f' 
 
\ . of till 
 
 or 
 
 WITH Aisr AccAiui^T or the 
 
 p.i,3. 
 
 ami SoM "bv lier at tlu- CJiapel Tiuval. 
 
THE 
 
 HISTORY 
 
 OP THE 
 
 ABBEY, PALACE, and CHAPEL-ROYAL 
 
 OF 
 
 tKCLUDlKG 
 
 A DESCRIPTIOI^ OF THE BUILDINGS AS THEY NOW EXIST \ 
 
 WITH AX 
 
 ^wount Sit tBe ^anctuar^ for 3En«Joll)ent }9e6tor!?. 
 
 ILLKJSTRATED BY A PLAK, AND SEVERAL 
 ELEGANT ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 *♦ See yonder hallowed fane ! the pious work 
 
 *' Of names once fam'd, now dubious, or forgot, 
 
 ♦< And bury'd midst the wreck of things which were." 
 
 Blair's Grave. 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 PRINTED BY HAY, GALL, AND CO. NIDDRY STREET, 
 FOR MRS JOHN PETRIE, NO. 1 ABBEY, AND SOLD BY HER AT THE 
 CHAPEL ROYAL^FOB BEHOOF OF HERSELF 
 
 AND FAMILY. * 
 
 1821. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Introduction, .... 5 
 History of the Foundation, Progress, and Dis- 
 solution of the !A.bbey of Holyrood, 9 
 Lists of Churches and Religious Houses that 
 
 were dependent upon the Abbey, . 32 
 Jliist of Abbots, &c. ... S3 
 Monuments and Inscriptions, . . 36 
 Royal Vault, , . . 54i 
 List of Nobility and Gentry buried with- 
 out Monuments, . . 67 
 Epitaphs selected from Monuments in 
 
 the Church-yard, . . 68 
 Description of the Abbey Church, &c. of Holy- 
 rood, ^ . . . . 74> 
 Historical account of the Palace of Holy rood- 
 house, .... 85 
 Description of the Palace, . . 93 
 
 of the Royal Gardens, . 101 
 
 Environs of the Palace, including the Sanctu- 
 ary for insolvent Debtors, . . 102 
 Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Craigs, 102 
 St Anthony's Chapel and Hermitage, 104« 
 St Anne's Yards, . • .107 
 Girth Cross, . . . 107 
 Boundaries of the Sanctuary, . . 108 
 List of Officers of the Chapel Royal and Saac- 
 
 tuary, • . . .110 
 
 General Index, . • f . llj 
 
PLATES, 
 
 IH.USTRATIVE OF THE FOl,LOWING WORK. 
 
 Page, 
 
 Vignette and title page,. — West Front of the 
 
 Palace of Holyroodhouse 
 1. Ground plan of the Chapel Royal, to front 77 
 ^. West view of it, and original grand en- 
 trance to the Abbey Church, 8X 
 
 8. North prospect, , , 82 
 
 4v Inside view from the West, . ib, 
 
 5. . -^ u.. from the East^ , 83. 
 
 6. East view of the great Outer Porch 
 
 of the Abbey and Palace in 1755, 100 
 
 7. Lord Belhaven's Monument, &c. .. S9i 
 
 8. Plan of the Sanctuary xn 1^19^ 103 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Prior to the middle of the si^cteenth century, the 
 Monastic Establishments of Europe were for ages the 
 chief, if not the only, repositories of knowledge. In 
 them many sciences were studied. From the industry 
 and ingenuity of their inmates, not a few of these arts 
 were derived which are now considered indispensible 
 for the convenience and ornament of civil life. It is 
 to the inhabitants of the cloister that we are also in^ 
 debted for the cultivation of that elegant ecclesiastic 
 cal architecture, of which the numerous specimens 
 still remaining in this country call forth the admira-. 
 tion of the curious, and stimulate the exertions of the 
 artist. 
 
 It is to be regretted, that in consequence of the 
 superstitious purposes to which these Institutions were 
 more immediately subservient, our reforming ances-« 
 tors, especially in this northern part of Britain, early 
 began to ransack and destroy indiscriminately, all the 
 splendid monuments of architectural genius, which 
 afforded either shelter to the devotees of supersti- 
 tion, or were the theatres in which the rites of their 
 ceremonious worship were performed. Impressed 
 with the idea that the Popish service ought to 
 be forcibly extirpated from the land, and too easily 
 influenced by the injudicious zeal of their own per- 
 
6 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 sccuted teachers, the uniform endeavour of the Re- 
 formers was, to prevent the return of the abettors of 
 Popery by the immediate destruction of their churches 
 and monastic dwellings. Thus, with ruthless hand, 
 did the followers of pious Knox, in their sanguinary 
 endeavours to secure the means of moral improve- 
 ment, needlessly deprive their country of many 
 splendid monuments of scientific skill, and themselves 
 ultimately of elegant and commodious places for pub- 
 lic worship. Nor was the destruction of the build- 
 ings the only evil ; numerous records and valuable 
 manuscripts suffered in the incontinent destruction. 
 Many of these documents, indeed, have escaped the 
 flames, but only enough to excite the deepest regret, 
 that so much and uncalled-for havock was suffered 
 to be committed among the records of our national 
 histpry and arts, at that time placed for the 
 greater security within the sacred walls of the monas- 
 teries and churches. In consequence of this conduct, 
 a dark shade has been thrown over the more early 
 periods both of our civil and religious history, which all 
 the skill and learning of posterity will be unable fully 
 to remove. Another effect of this rashness has been, 
 to charge the memory of the unfortunate inmates of 
 the cloisters with every species of reproach ; and that, 
 after those documents were destroyed, which would 
 have borne no inconsiderable testimony to the indusr 
 try and piety, (though perhaps ill directed,) of many 
 of their number. The investigations, however, which 
 have been made of late years into the remaining docu- 
 ments of the history of the religious establishments pf 
 Britain, have produced several important and interest- 
 ing results : They have elucidated the architecture of 
 the ecclesiastical fabrics ; and by demonstrating its 
 
iJjTRODUCTIOif. 
 
 1 
 
 scientific principles, removed the unmerited stig-ma 
 with which the revivers of the Greek and Roman 
 architecture endeavoured unfairly to load the circular 
 and pointed styles of our fathers. They have also 
 refuted, to a considerable extent, the hasty opinion 
 which many prejudiced persons have fondly cherished^ 
 that convents were the abodes only of ignorance, in- 
 dolence, and crimes. 
 
 Many splendid examples of industrious and praise- 
 worthy investigation of the Ecclesiastical and Archi- 
 tectural Antiquities of England are before the public^ 
 which astonish the readers with the magnitude of the 
 undertaking. * Much still remains to be accomplish- 
 ed. — A large, and but partially travelled field lies be- 
 fore our Scottish antiquaries, who remain considerably 
 behind their southern neighbours. They have howevei!' 
 begun to work ; — the subjects of investigation fully 
 meet their wishes, both for interest and intrinsic worth ; 
 and we hope ere long to be furnished with more circum- 
 stantial details and elegant illustrations of many of 
 our once rich and magnificent Scottish Monasteries 
 and Cathedrals. 
 
 In this state of things, a proper account of Holy- 
 rood Abbey and Palace has been long considered a desU 
 deralum. Little more has been done hitherto thaii 
 the introduction of a few general and loose statements 
 into the various topographical accounts of the city 
 and county of Edinburgh. To remedy this de- 
 
 * See Dougdale's Preface to Leiand's CoUectania ; Britton's Architectural 
 Antiquities of Great Britain, 4to ; Brewster's Encyclopedia, Art. Civil Archi- 
 tecture §. anent Gothic Archit. ; Milner's Ecclesiastical Architecture of Eng- 
 land, 8vo; Essays on Gothic Architecture by Warton and others, 8vo; Whit- 
 tington*s Historical Survey of the Ecclesiastical Antiquities of France, 4to ; 
 Dalaway's Observations on English Architecture. 
 
8 
 
 iNTltODUOTlO^^* 
 
 fectj and in some degree meet the Wishes of the 
 inquisitive tourist and visitant, is the object of the 
 following pages> vi^hich, it is humbly hoped, will proye^ 
 (at least in the more material circumstances,) both 
 full and correct. They comprise an account of the 
 early and subsequent history of the Abbey of Sancice 
 CruciSf with a description of the ruins of the Abbey- 
 Church, afterwards the Royal Chapel of Holyrood- 
 house i— Lists of religious Houses that were depen- 
 dent upon the Abbey; — of the Abbots and Monu^ 
 mental Inscriptions, interspersed with biographical 
 anecdotes of illustrious characters a history and 
 description of the Palace, accompanied with an ac- 
 count of the Environs, which include a Sanctuary for 
 Insolvent Debtors ; — a list of the names of the present 
 official persons belonging to his Majesty's Household 
 for Scotland, in so far as connected with the Chapel* 
 Royal and Palace ; and a copious Index. A correct 
 plan of the Sanctuary, including the Abbey and 
 Palace, with several views of the Chapel, &c. are also 
 given herewith. 
 
 It is proper here to acknowledge, that in framing 
 these pages, a liberal use has been made of Maitland's 
 and Arnot's Histories of Edinburgh, as general 
 authorities for facts. These books, accordingly, are 
 less frequently referred to than some others which 
 were more partially consulted, viz. Keith's Catalogue 
 of Scots Bishops, vol. 2d of Chalmer's Caledonian, Dr 
 Brewster's Encyclopedia, Dr Milner's Treatise on 
 Ecclesiastical Architecture, and several other books 
 on Scottish History and Antiquities, to which repeated 
 references are made. 
 
 Edinburgh, \ 
 
HISTORY 
 
 or 
 
 HOLYROOD ABBEY, &c. 
 
 FOUNDATION, PROGRESS, axd DISSOLUTION 
 OF THE ABBEY. 
 
 rj^HIS monastery of Sancta Crucis, or Holyrood^ was found 
 ed by David I. of Scotland, A. D. 1128, and, like most 
 other religious establishments of the dark ages, originated 
 in superstition. The account generally given is, that it was 
 established by that Monarch, to perpetuate the memory of 
 a miraculous interposition of heaven, said to have been ma- 
 nifested in his favour. This event is narrated by the his- 
 torians of those times, with all their usual enthusiasm when 
 treating of such subjects. 
 
 " The King," say they, " while hunting in the forest of 
 Drumselch, one of the royal forests, * which surrounded 
 " the rocks and hills to the east of the city of Edinburgh, 
 on Rood-day, or exaltation of the cross, was attacked by 
 a stag, and would in all probability have fallen a sacrifice 
 " to the enraged animal, which overbore both him and his 
 
 • In the public archives, frequent grants are to be met with of large parcels 
 of timber, granted to the inhabitants of Edinburgh for building and repairing 
 houses, and for clearing away the " ancient royal forests''' surrounding Arthur 
 Seat, the Burrowmuir, &c. &c. Vide also Rohan's Hist, VEdinb* 1580, and 
 Maitland'i Hist. Edin, 1753. 
 
 B 
 
10 
 
 ^* tiorse, (as his attendants were left at a considerable dis-* 
 ** tance behind,) when lo ! an arm, wreathed in a dark 
 " cloud, and displaying a cross of the most dazzling bril- 
 " liancy, was interposed between them, and the affrighted 
 *' animal fled to the recesses of the forest in the greatest con- 
 " fusion. This having put an end to the chase, the Monarch 
 ** repaired to the Castle of Edinburgli ; where, during the 
 •* night, in a dream, he was advised, as an act of gratitude 
 " for his deliveranccj to erect an Abbey, or house for Canons' 
 " regular, upon the spot where this miraculous interposition; 
 " had taken place." 
 
 In obedience to this visionary command, the King en- 
 dowed this monastery for Canons regular of the Augustine 
 order, a colony of whom he brought from an abbey of the 
 same kind at St Andrews, * and dedicated his new establish- 
 ment to the lionour of the said Cross. -|* The celestial relict 
 having been left in his possession, was enshrined in silver, and 
 placed with great pomp and ceremony upon the high altar, 
 where it remained for ages a source of riches and comfort 
 to its numerous devotees, till the fatal battle of Durham, 
 
 * «' All our churches formerly belonged either to regulars or seculars. 
 
 " The regulars followed the rule of St Augustine, Bishop of Hippo, in Af- 
 ** rica^ St Bennet, or some private statutes approved by the Pope ; and lived, 
 
 slept, and took their diet together under the same roof. They were either 
 
 canons^ monks, or friars ; and their houses were called abbacies, ■priories 
 ** or convents. 
 
 The seculars had their private rules, composed by their chapters, or bor- 
 ** rowed from other colleges abroad ; which statutes were not commonly ap- 
 ** proved of by Rome. They lived separately in their cloisters, or in private 
 *' houses near to their churches ; and were governed by a Dean [Dccant/s] 
 «* or Provost [Prcepositusy Of this kind were St Giles's church, Edinburgh, 
 the Trinity College church there, and about 30 others. 
 
 The canons regular of St Augustine were first brought to Scotland by Atel- 
 wolphus, prior of St Oswald, of Nottal in Yorlishire» and afterwards Bishop of 
 Carlisle; who established them at Scone in the year 1114, at the desire of 
 King Alexander I. They had 28 monasteries in Scotland, of which were St 
 Andrew's and Holyrood-bouse Abbies. 
 
 See Spottiswoode's Religious Houses of Scotland, annexed to his Edition of 
 Hope's Minor Praetiques, JBrftni 1734* and Keith's Catalogue of Scotch Bishopi.. 
 £din. 1755. 
 
 t Boeth. Hist. lib. ii. 
 
11 
 
 A. D. 1346, when its virtues appear to have deserted its 
 possessors, as it there fell into the hands of the English, and 
 was long preserved by them with zealous veneration in the 
 cathedral church of Durham. The texture of this celestial 
 cross was of such a nature, that none could tell of what ma- 
 terials it was composed ; and in the lapse of ages it has 
 hitherto eluded the search cf the antiquarian. 
 
 To render the references more intelligible, a translation 
 of the charter of foundation from the original, which is 
 beautifully written upon vellum in the public archives of the 
 city of Edinburgh, is here given ; viz. 
 
 " In the name of our Lord Jesus Christ, and in honour 
 " of the Holy Cross, the Blessed Virgin Mary, and all 
 saints, I David, by the grace of God, King of Scots, by 
 " royal authority, and consent of Henry my son, and the 
 " Bishops of my kingdom, confirmed by my Earls and 
 " Barons, attested by the clergy, and by divine instinct ap- 
 proved by the people, do grant, and perpetually confirm 
 to the church of the Holy Cross at Edinburgh, the seve- 
 ral things hereafter mentioned : — That is to say, I grant 
 to the said church, and to the Canons regularly servin^^ 
 " God therein, in free and perpetual alms, the Church of 
 " the Castle (of Edinburgh), with the appurtenences and 
 rights thereof; trial by duel, water, and fire ordeal, so far 
 " as appertains to the ecclesiastical dignity; with the town of 
 " Selectuna [or Saughion] and its several divisions ; and the 
 " church and parish of St Cuthberts, with all things there- 
 *' unto belonging ; with the church, town, and its divisions, 
 " and the ground whereon the church is situate ; together 
 " with all the lands lying under the castle ; viz. from the 
 " Well * which riseth or springeth near the corner of my 
 " garden, by the way which leads to the church or St Cuth- 
 " berts, and, on the other hand, along the foot of the Castle- 
 " hill, to a rock at the east side of the Castlehill, with two 
 
 • Supposed to be the well under the Well-house tower, vulgarly called Wal» 
 Iace*s tower, situated at the foot of the perpendicular craig on the north 8id« 
 jof the Castle, where there is still a constant spring of pure wijter, even in the 
 ^ryeet season* J, S, 
 
 B3 
 
12 
 
 " chapels belonging to the said church of St Cuthberts, viz. 
 
 ** Crostorfin j Corstorphin'\, with two bovates * and six acres 
 
 *' of land, and the chapel of Libberton, with two oxgangs ; -f* 
 
 " together with all the rights and tithes, as well of the 
 dead as of the living, in Legbernard, which Macbetver 
 
 " \^Macbdh] gave to the said church, and I have confirmed. 
 Also the church of Hereth, \^Jirth in Stirlingshire^, with 
 the lands thereunto belonging ; together with the several 
 
 " lands by me thereunto annexed, as surveyed by my officers 
 and others, I have given to Alwinus the abbot, with a salt- 
 
 " pan and 26 acres of land, in the said town of Hereth : 
 * Which church and lands I will, that the said canons of 
 
 " the Holy Cross freely hold and quietly possess for ever. 
 
 *' And I hereby strictly enjoin, that no person presume to 
 molest or disturb any of the said canons, their vassals, or 
 servants, residing on the said lands ; or that any work, 
 auxiliary or secular customs, be unjustly exacted from 
 
 « them. 
 
 " I likewise grant to the said canons, liberty to erect a 
 " mill upon the said lands, and to have and enjoy in Hereth 
 
 all the following rights, customs, and conveniencies ; viz. 
 " in rivers, fishings, meadows, and pastures, and to enjoy 
 
 all things necessary, in as full and ample a manner as 
 
 when they were in my own possession ; together with the 
 " town of Broctunam [Brougkton], and its respective divi- 
 *^ sions ; the lands of Inverlet [Inverleith], in the neigh- 
 " bourhood of the harbour, with the said harbour; half of 
 
 the fishings and tithes of the several fisheries belonging to 
 " the church of St Cuthberts ; the towns of Petendreiara, 
 
 [^Pittendrich] Hamere, [Hamar], and Fordam, with their 
 *' several divisions ; and the hospital^ with a carucate J or 
 
 plough of land, and a perpetual annuity of 40 shillings, 
 " out of my town of Edwinesburg l^Edinburgh^- And for 
 
 * Bovate of land is commonly taken at 15 acres, or as much as an ox can 
 plough in a year. 
 
 f Oxgang, the same as bovate. 
 
 J Carucate, or Carucata terrte, or as much land as a plough could till in 
 one year, reckoned in England at 100 acres, Skene dc Sig. verbo* 
 
13 
 
 " supplying the said canons with apparel, I give to them 
 «« 100 shillings, payable out of my cain* at Pert [Per/A], 
 
 and from the duties that arise to me out of the first mer- 
 " chant ships that arrive at Pert [PeriK] ; and if none shall 
 " happen to arrive, I then give to the said church, out of 
 " my revenue in Edvvinesburg [^Edinhurs^fi], the sum of 48 
 
 shillings; out of Stieveline {Stirling], 20 shillings, vi^ith 
 " a house, and one draught of a fishing-net at the said 
 " place ; and 40 shillings out of Pert [Perth], vrith a house 
 " in my town of Edvvinesburg [^Edinhurgh], free of all 
 
 duties and customs w^hatsoever ; together with a house in 
 " the town of Berewick \^]krwic}c\, a draught of two nets 
 " in Scypwell [Spytwell]^ a house in Remfry [TJew/reio], 
 " five particates, -f and one draught of a net for salmon, 
 
 with a right to fish for herrings. And I strictly command, 
 " that no person whatsoever presume to take of any of the 
 " said canons, their vassals or servants, any toll or duty 
 " whatever. 
 
 " I also give to the said canons, out of my camero [Ex- 
 " chequer,'] a perpetual annuity of 10 pounds, for lighting 
 " and repairing their church. And I command my respec- 
 " tive officers and forresters, in the counties of Streveline 
 " \!Stirling\, and Clacmannant | Clackmannan], that they per- 
 " mit the said abbot and canons to take out of my se- 
 " veral woods and forests as much wood as they shall have 
 
 occasion for, towards building their church, houses, and 
 " other necessary constructions. I likewise order and direct, 
 " that the vassals and servants of the said canons shall have 
 " liberty to take out of my said woods or forests whatever 
 " wood they may have occasion for, without molestation. 
 
 And I also grant, that the swine belonging to the masters 
 " or canons of the said church be free from pannage. J 
 
 • Cain, the duty paid to the Superior, or Lord of the Manor, by the ten- 
 ants ; but more especially, as in this place, certain petty tithes paid to the 
 clergy, for lands held of the church. Skene de Sig. verho. 
 
 •j- Particate, or Particates terres, is a rood, or the fourth part of an acre of 
 land. Ibid. 
 
 X Pannage, duty on swine that fed in the king's wood upon beech nuts, 
 mast, &c. 
 
14 
 
 I also give and grant to the said canons one half of the 
 tallow, lard, and hides, of the beasts killed in Edvvinesburg 
 
 [Edinburgh], with the tithes of whales and sea-monsters, due 
 " to me from the river Avin, [^uow] to Colbrandespaide [Col- 
 «' brandspath], with the tithes of all my pleas and profits from 
 ** the said Avin to the said Colbrandespaide, and the half of 
 " my pleas and profits of Kentyr, yKinti/re~\ and Errogeil [Ar- 
 
 gijle',\ with the skins of all the rams, sheep, and lambs, 
 " belonging to my castle of Linlitcu, [Linlithgow,'] which 
 " die naturally, and 8 chalders of malt, 8 of meal, 30 cart- 
 
 loads of brushwood from Libbertune, [Libberton ; j one of 
 
 my mills of Dene, [Dean], with the tenths of my mills of 
 " Libbertune and Dene, and those of my new mill at Ed- 
 " winsburg, [Edinburgh] and Cragfenmar [Craigendsmark], 
 
 as far as they appertain to me ; with all that belonged 
 
 to Vineth While on the said rock, to be held in free and 
 " perpetual alms. 
 
 " I likewise grant to the said Canons the town of Her- 
 " bergare,* lying betwixt the said church and my town 
 " of [Edinburgh], and that the burgesses thereof have the 
 
 liberty of buying and selling goods and merchandise in 
 " open market, as freely and without molestation and re- 
 
 proach as any of my own burgesses. And I strictly en- 
 " join, that no person presume to take by force any bread, 
 " ale, or other vendible commodity, without the consent of 
 " the said burgesses. 
 
 " I also grant, that the said Canons be free from all tolls 
 " and customs in my several burghs and lands, in all things 
 
 they deal in. And I strictly forbid all persons from tak- 
 " ing a poind, or making a seizure in or upon the lands of 
 *' the said Holy-Cross, unless the Abbot refuse to do justice 
 " to the person injured. T will likewise, that the said Canons 
 " hold all the aforesaid things as fully as I enjoy my lands. 
 
 And I grant, that the said Abbot shall have his court in as 
 " full, free, and honourable a manner as the Bishop of St 
 
 • Herbergare, where the Canongate is now, so called from the houses of the 
 Canons, and the Street where they were situated. 
 
15 
 
 Andrews, Abbot of Dunfermline, and Abbot of Kelcu 
 " ( Kelso,) enjoy theirs. 
 
 " Attested by these witnesses — Robert Bishop of St An- 
 " drews. John Bishop of Glasgow. Henry, my son. Wil- 
 
 liam, my nephew. Edward, the Chancellor. Herbert, 
 ** the Treasurer. Gillemichell Comite. Gospatrick, Brother 
 " of Delphin. Robert Montague. Robert de Burneville. 
 ** Peter de Bruce. Norman, the Sheriff. Ogu, Leising. 
 " Gillise. William de Graham. Turstan de Creictune 
 " Blemo, the Archdeacon. Alfric, the Chaplain. And 
 " Waleran, the Chaplain.*^ 
 
 Besides the provisions and privileges contained in the 
 preceding charter of David I. this abbey was liberally en 
 dowed by other persons from time to time, until it rose at 
 length to such a pitch of opulence, as to excite the admira- 
 tion and envy of its several depredators. 
 
 The patronages of several churches in different parts of 
 the kingdom were vested in the Canons ; and the following 
 extensive ecclesiastical foundations, with their revenues, be- 
 longed to them at the dissolution of the Abbey ; viz. The 
 cells or priories of St Mary''s Isle in Galloway, granted to 
 tliem by Fergus, Lord of Galloway, who afterwards became 
 a monk in the Abbey ; — Blantire, in Clydesdale ; — Rovvadil, 
 in the Isle of Herries, granted to them by M'Leod of Her- 
 ries ; — Crusay, Oronsay, and Colonsay, all in the Western 
 Isles of Scotland. The church of Melgyinch,* granted to 
 them by Matthew, Abbot of Dunkeld, A. D. The 
 church of Dalgarnock,-|- granted to them by John, Bishop of 
 Glasgow, A. D. 1322. The church and vicarage of Kirkcud- 
 bright,+ by Henry, Bishop of Galloway, A. D. 1334, &c. 
 
 The Canons of Holyrood possessed also extensive legal, 
 as well AS civil and ecclesiastical jurisdiction. To them 
 belonged the right, as already seen, of trial or ordeal, 
 both by duel, fire, and water, \ as also the finding out of 
 
 • Cart. Dunk. f Cart. Glas. % Macfarlane, MS. 
 
 H Trial by duel was an appeal to Heaven by means of the sword. The person 
 injured had a right to enter the listn with his accuser, and to choose the length 
 of the weapons ; as also to take the eunward and windward side of his an- 
 
16 
 
 " noted witches and warlocks the composing all manner of 
 litigation and controversy ; and the precincts of their altars 
 were literally a city of refuge to the trembling culprit who 
 fled thither from the vengeance of his merciless pursuers. 
 To enter this sanctum sanctorum in a forcible manner, was 
 deemed more reprehensible than the deed, in revenge of 
 which the sanctuary had been violated, murder alone except- 
 ed. 
 
 In the year 1177, a national council was held in the Ab- 
 bey, in consequence of the arrival of a legate sent by the 
 Pope to take cognizance of a dispute between the English 
 and Scots Clergy, as to the submission of the latter to the 
 Church^-of England, in terms of a stipulation to that effect 
 by William of Scotland's treaty, between him and Henry 
 I. of England, for delivering up certain forts to him. The 
 legate having been admitted however into Scotland only up- 
 
 tagonist. The victor was in general declared innocent, whether actually so or 
 not. — Vide Shutt's Royal and Ecclesiastical Antiquities, Sir David Lindsay of 
 the Mount, Lion King at Arms, an ancient Tournament MSS. Ad. Lib. iv. 
 1. 3. 
 
 The order of the combat, with the process, as frequently practised in the 
 royal court and park of Holyrood-house, in ancient times, was as follows : 
 
 " The accused strongly denying the fact alleged against him, threw down 
 liX^gauntlti or gage^ calling the accuser a liar^ and thereby challenging him to 
 combat ; then the other took, up the gage, declaring his willingness to fight, 
 and to prove by battle the truth of his assertion. The gages were then sealed 
 up and delivered to the Marshall, and leave to combat demanded of the King. 
 Which, if he granted, a day and place were then appointed ; by which time a 
 scaffold was erected for the King and his attendants, and the lists wex'e railed 
 round." — Strutt's Horda Angel Cynn. Vol. IL p. 165. 
 
 ' Trial by fire, was to cause the accused walk bare-footed and blind-folded 
 over nine glowing ploughshares. Sometimes carrying a ved-hot ball of one 
 pound, denominated simple ordeal-, of two pounds, double ordeal; of three 
 pounds, triple ordeal, &c. ; in which cases, if no harm ensued, the parties 
 were declared innocent — Jacob's Law Dictionary, Art. Trial. 
 
 Trial by water, was to bind the accused hand and foot, and throw him into 
 a pool of water ; if he swam on the surface, he was adjudged innocent, but if 
 otherwise, he was abandoned to his fate, and suffered accordingly. — Forfacus 
 Goth. Ant. &c. 
 
 Thej^re ordeal was intended for the higher classes of the community, and 
 the mater ordeal for the plebeians, or baser sort. The ordeal of cold water was 
 used till a very late period in the detection of witch craft. 
 
17 
 
 on his compliance with certain demands made by William, 
 the result of this and a subsequent interference of Pope 
 Alexander III. respecting the double election of John Scot, 
 and Hugo, to the see of St Andrews, (the former of whom he 
 had commanded Matthew Bishop of Aberdeen tg consecrate 
 Bishop of St Andrews in this Abbey, contrary to the will of 
 the King)) afford only an additional proof how little the 
 Church of Scotland then was under Papal influence. For 
 William was excommunicated, and the kingdom interdicted 
 without any bad effect resulting to either.* 
 
 Shortly after its original foundation, Fergus, the first 
 Lord of Galloway, one of its noblest and earliest benefac- 
 tors, sought an asylum here from the cares and troubles of 
 a turbulent period, and paid the great debt of nature within 
 its hallowed walls, A. D. 1161. His remains were interred 
 near to the high altar, with all the pomp and splendour of 
 monastic solemnity. John Bishop of Candida Casa^ or Whit- 
 horn, in Galloway, closed a long life of religious labour and 
 devotion at its holy altars, A. D. 1206 ; as did also the fa- 
 mous John Due de Lancaster in 138J. 
 
 This Abbey was frequently exposed to the rage of con- 
 quest, and the fury of savage depredators. In August 1332, 
 when Edward the IIPs army was about to retire into Eng- 
 land, the soldiers, inspired by a principle of zealous devasta- 
 tion, laid waste the precincts of this sacred asylum, despoil- 
 ing the shrines, and carrying off the vessels of gold and sil- 
 ver used in the solemnities of their appointed festivals. Not 
 content with this sacrilegious plunder, thsy committed every 
 outrage upon the trembling unoffending inmates of its vene- 
 rable cloisters. This monastery was also burnt down A. D. 
 1385, when the furious Richard II. made his descent upon 
 Scotland. 
 
 Archibald Crawfurd, Lord High Treasurer of Scotland, 
 a younger son of William Crawfurd, proprietor of the lands 
 of Manuel and Haining, in Stirlingshire, having been bred 
 to the church, and passed through several inferior ecclesi- 
 
 • Guthrie's History of Scotland, and Keith's Catalogue of Scots Bishops. 
 
18 
 
 ^stical stations, was, A. D. 1457, nominated Abbot of ^o/y- 
 roodhouse. He obtained a high reputation on account of his 
 talents and integrity* and was employed in many important 
 civil transactions. In 1458 he was nominated one of the 
 liOrds of Council and Session, which at that time was only 
 an ambulatory Committee of Parliament. He was frequent- 
 ly appointed ambassador to the court of England ; and was 
 included, with others, to negotiate a treaty of marriage by 
 James II. and a daughter of Edward IV. which did not suc- 
 ceed. He is here mentioned on account of having contri- 
 buted materially to the embellishment of t(ie monastery, and 
 particularly in altering the old Norman fabric built by Da- 
 vid I. into the pointed style of architecture which the pre- 
 sent magnificent ruins exhibit * He died in I4S3. 
 
 As the various alterations made upon the buildings of 
 Holyroodhouse are noticed in a subsequent section, it will 
 suffice here to observe, that after this church and abbey 
 had remained for 400 years in the fields by themselves, King 
 James V. about A. D. 1528, erected a house for his own re- 
 sidence near the south-west corner of the church, with a cir- 
 cular turret at each angle. This is the present tower at the 
 north-west corner of the Palace of Holyroodhouse, as more 
 particularly noticed afterwards. 
 
 In April 1544, during the irruption of the Earl of Hert- 
 ford, this Abbpy, together with the adjacent palace, were 
 nearly reduced to ashes by th^ fury of his unprincipled sol- 
 diery. The choir and transept of the church were then de- 
 stroyed, and nothing left standing but the nave, of which the 
 ruins only now remain. At this time the brazen font of cu- 
 rious workmanship, ornamented with Scripture subjects, and 
 in which the children of the Kings of Scotland were usually 
 baptized, was carried off by Sir Richard Lea, the captain of 
 the English pioneers, who presented it to the church of St Al- 
 bans, in Hertfordshire, after he had caused the following 
 haughty and imperious inscription to be engraven upon it : — 
 
 • His arms are to be seen beautifully cut on the fly -buttresses, on the north 
 side of the Nave of the Abbey. 
 
19 
 
 *• Cum Lsethia, oppidum apud Scotos non in celebre, et 
 " Edinburgus primaria apud eos civitas incendio conflagrant, 
 " Richardus Leus, cques auratus, me flaramis ereptijm ad Jn- 
 
 ^los perduxit. Hujus ego tante beneficii memor, non nisi 
 " regum liberos lavare solitus, nunc meam operam etiam in 
 " fines Jnglorum libenter condixi. Leus victQrstc voluiL Vale 
 " A. D. MDXLIII et Anno, Henrijci Octavi XXXVI.* 
 
 Translated. 
 
 ** When Leith, a town of good account in Scotland, and 
 *' Edinburgh, the principal city of that nation, were on fire, 
 " Sir Richard JL.ea, knight, sav€4 me out of the flames, and 
 " brought me into England. In gratitude to him for his 
 *' kindness, I, who hitherto served only at the baptism of the 
 '* children of kings, do now most willingly offer the same 
 " service, even to the meanest of the English nation. Lea, 
 " th€ Conqueror, hath so commanded. Adieu, A. D. 1543^ 
 " in the 26th year of King Henry VIII.^' 
 
 " No doubt," as Mr Scott justly observes, " this mighty 
 hero, who had achieved so glorious an enterprise as that of 
 taking away a brass font in the midst of the tumult occa- 
 " sioned by a conflagration, hoped to inform posterity of his 
 " renown, by the memorial engraven upon the trophy won 
 ^* by his exploits ; but, alas ] ambition knows not its own 
 destiny ; the victor's spoil became in its turn the spoil of 
 rebellious regicides ; for during the civil wars that raged 
 " under the unfortunate Charles, this sacred emblem of 
 " conquest was taken down and sold for its weight, and 
 " ignobly destroyed nor would the memory of Sir Rich- 
 " ard Lea's valour have survived, but for the diligence of 
 the above accurate antiquarian." -j- 
 
 Afterthe battle of Pinkey, A. D. 1547, the Protector, 
 Duke of Somerset, sent two of his generals to suppress the 
 monastery of Sanctte Cruets. On their arrival they found 
 that the fraternity had fled ; and the church and palace be- 
 
 * Camb. Biittania in Com. Hereford. Kincaid's App. 
 t Border Ant. Hist. Descrip. Nc. VI. j). 77. 
 
 C 2 
 
20 
 
 ing well covered wfth lead, these pillagers stripped it off, 
 took down the bells, and committed several other acts of 
 outrage 
 
 It may be proper to mention here, that during the existr 
 ence of this Abbey, there were several private altars within 
 the Abbatial Church, at which chaplains officiated, in virtue 
 of certain specific grants by pious individuals for their sup- 
 port, and for defraying the necessary expenses attending the 
 performance of masses for the repose of the souls of their 
 founders and others. These altars were dedicated to cer- 
 tain saints at the pleasure of their founders. In this church, 
 two of the altars were dedicated to St Andrew and St 
 Catharine, another to St Anne by the tailors of Edinburgh ; 
 and a fourth, founded by the Cordwainers, was dedicated to 
 Crispin and Crispiniani, whose images were placed upon it. 
 
 The origin of these private altars is curious, and intimate- 
 ly connected with some of the most valuable reliques of 
 political antiquity in Edinburgh. The account is, " that in 
 the crusades, one of the religious delusions of other times, 
 a certain number of men, chosen from every craft in Edin- 
 " burgh, were sent off to Soudainrie^ who performed aston- 
 ishing prodigies of valour in the escalade of the Sacred 
 " City, and planted their standard, ' The Blue Blanket, ""f first 
 *' upon the Holi/ Grave, and hence designated ' Insignia 
 ' Sancta Spiriiiy or the banner of the < Holy Ghost,' 
 Such of them as returned were consecrated Knights of 
 " that order, with innumerable privileges and immunities 
 to them and their successors. The sacred banner was 
 suspended over the titular saint of the city, in the colle- 
 
 * Patten's Expedit. Dalziers Edit. p. 22. 
 
 •f- Vide Records in Pub. Arc. Edin. 1463. Grose's Ant.—" This standard 
 was granted to the Edinburghers by James III. as a perpetual remembrance 
 *' of their loyalty and bravery on his account. It is denominated the Blue 
 ♦< Blankeii from its colour, and is delivered to the Conveener of the trades 
 «* with much ceremony, being considered as the palladium of the liberties 
 « of the city, and is preserved with the greatest care and veneration." Maitn 
 land and Arnot, 
 
21 
 
 " giate church of St Giles ; and altars were founded and en- 
 *' dowed by each separate body, to their respective saint 
 " and patron, in the church to which they were apperided."" 
 " Hence the origin of these altars in the royal chapel ; and 
 
 as every one who had fought under the banners of the 
 " cross was entitled to assume this banner upon his shield 
 " of arms, it sufficiently accounts for that device being so 
 " frequently found on the sepulchral stones* that pave the 
 *^ ailes of Holy rood, though erected to the memory of the 
 *' baxters and burgesses of Canongate." 
 
 One remarkable private foundation of this kind in the Church 
 of Holyrood, was that of George Creichton, bishop of Dun- 
 keld, during the reign of James V. It was connected with 
 St Thomas's Chapel and Almshouse, founded by that prelate, 
 at the foot of the Canongate, near the Water Gate ; and 
 is particularly specified in the Charter of Foundations, of 
 which the following outline is given by Mr Maitland, in 
 his history of Edinburgh, (p, 154,) and here introduced as a 
 specimen of the manner of proceeding in such erections in the 
 
 Some think that the grave-stones, &c. on which crosses and ships are 
 sculptured, to have belonged originally to the descendants of the Knights Tem- 
 plars, or guardians of the Holy Sepulchre and Temple, who were the original 
 Canons Regular^ and brought into Scotland by David I. founder of the said 
 Abbey, who granted them the privileges above mentioned, especially in thb 
 Canongate, at Leith, and the Water-of-Leith. In after times, when these 
 buildings were feued out to seculars, they were careful to preserve the cross of 
 the order upon the top of all houses that were formerly in their possession, as 
 a particular mark that they were subject to them, and only liable to answer in 
 iheir courts. t' 
 
 In after times, the Knights of St John of Jerusalem acquired the im- 
 mense possessions of the Templars, whose cross or device being the same, 
 (thus [f ] in form of the letter T) was likewise ordered to be put upon all houses 
 feued out by these Knights ; whereupon we see to this day a great many crosses 
 upon the top of buildings, both in Edinburgh, Leith, and their precincts, which 
 formerly belonged to them, and are as yet subject to those who acquired the 
 superiority at the Reformation. Keitky Rel H, chap. xiv. p. 216. 
 
 With regard to their original settlement in this country, we extract the 
 following from the Book or Char. Record of Coupar, ** Sanctus David de 
 *♦ prseclara milita templi Hierosolomitani optimus fratres secum retinens, eoc 
 " diebus et noctibus morum suorum fecit esse custodes," &c. 
 
limes of popery ; viz. George Creicliton, by divine mercy^ 
 bishop of Dunkeld, and of love to God, for the augmentation 
 " of his worship, and for the welfare and prosperity of his 
 " Lord James V. by the grace of God, present King of Scot- 
 *^ land, his dearest son James, Prince and Steward of Scotland, 
 " and Duke of Rothsay ; and for the souls of the illustrious 
 " princes, James III. and IV. Kings of Scots, their father 
 and grand-father, and Mary Queen of Scotland, consort 
 to the said James III ; the soul of Magdalene, daughter 
 *' to Francis, King of France, and consort to the said James 
 *' Y. for the serene prince, John Duke of Albany ; for his 
 " own (the founder's) soul, and that of his dearest John 
 Earl of Mar, brother to the said James IV. King of Scots; 
 " the souls of the founder's father and mother, brethren, 
 " sisters, and all his relations, predecessors, and succes- 
 " sors ; and of all those whom he had in any ways offend- 
 " ed, from whom he had received any benefit, and for such 
 " as he was obliged to pray, and all others departed this life ; 
 ** Gives and grants, in pure and perpetual alms, to the ho- 
 nour of Almight}' God, the most blessed Virgin Mary his 
 " mother, and all saints, all the lands of Lochflat, with their 
 *' appurtenances, lying wkhin the sheriffdom of Edinburgh, 
 which he devised in trust to James Greg, and John Fair, 
 " chaplains, and their successors, celebrating divine service 
 at the altars of St Andrew and St Katherine, within the 
 Monastical Church of Holyroodhouse, near the town of 
 " Edinburgh, in the southern chapel, adjoining to the high 
 " altar of tlie said church, the rents and profits thereof, to 
 " be disposed of as follows, viz. — To each of the said chap- 
 ** lains, 24 merks yearly, 40 shillings to the canons of said con- 
 *^ ventual church of Holyrood, to celebrate the founder s anni- 
 ** versary ohtt, by solemnly singing in the choir of the said 
 church, on the day of his death yearly, the placebo and dirige * 
 
 • The placebo was a certain ceremony performed in the ancient Romish 
 churches, for the repose of the dead, and consisted in the frequent repetition 
 of prayers and Ave Marias. The dirige, or dirge, was a funeral lament, sun^ 
 cr lamented over the grave of the deceased. — Vide Anglo Sax. Ant. p. fo3. 
 
is 
 
 ^ with a mass in the same place of the day following, for* 
 " the repose of his soul and those of the above mentioned ; 
 " ) 6 shillings for eight wax candles, viz. two in each of the 
 " said chapels ; two on the high altar, and two upon the 
 " founders tomb, decently adorned ; 10 shillings for six ta- 
 
 pers of three pounds weight, to be lighted up and burnt on 
 " the said anniversary during mass ; three shillings for ring- 
 " ing the great bells ;* and eight pennies for ringing the 
 
 small or hand-bell through the towns of Edinburgh and 
 " Canongate ; two shillings to the bearers of the torches a- 
 " bout the said altar and founder's tomb ; 30 shillings for 
 " the support of four wax candles, to be kindled and burnt 
 " on the said altar, decently adorned, during the first and 
 " second vespers, and respective Festivals throughout the 
 ** year ; 30 shillings to be given to 30 poor persons ; 10 
 " shillings for bread and wine for the celebration of masses 
 " at the aforesaid altars ; ^0 shillings to repair the decora- 
 " tions of said altars ; an annuity of four pounds to the 
 
 church of St Mary in the field ; and eight pounds yearly 
 " to the abbot and canons of the said monastery, as a feu- 
 " farm or quit-rent for the said lands of Lochjlat ; and to 
 
 seven poor old men, and their successors, to be lodged in 
 *^ an alms-house to be built by the founder near the Abbey 
 
 of Holyrood-house aforesaid, the yearly sum of 24 merles 
 ** each: And for defraying the annual expenses above- 
 " mentioned, certain lands and tenements were appropriated 
 " by the founder, and the charge thereof vested in the chap- 
 " lains, who officiated at the altar of St Andrew's aforesaid, 
 " and his successors, for which he and they were to receive an 
 " annual salary of 20s.; and the surplusage of the revenues 
 
 to be employed in repairing the house, furniture, &c.; but 
 " in case of a non-acceptance of the said trust, or in absence 
 " of the said principal chaplain, the assistant chaplain was to 
 
 • The bells on these occasions were tolled in a particular manner ; ** Haec 
 (sanctrmonialis Begu) dum in dormitorio sororum pausans, audivit subito in 
 «« aere notum campanae, quo adorationes excltari vel convocari «olebant cuift 
 quis e»rum de ffaeculo fuisset convocata.'* 
 
94 
 
 " execute the said trust, and receive the salary above-men- 
 « tioned;' 
 
 There were also certain rules and constitutions specified 
 in the said charter of St Thomas' Hospital, to be observed 
 by the said chaplains and alms-men, which are here inserted, 
 as affording an interesting specimen of the ancient ceremonies 
 observed at those private altars in the Abbey church of Holy- 
 roodhouse, and which were customary at similar altars in 
 such churches throughout the kingdom, viz. 
 
 " 1. That the said chaplains shall say mass daily at the 
 said altars ; and at the beginning of each mass, to ex- 
 hort the people to say one Pater Nosier^ with an Ave 
 Maria, for the soul of the founder, and those of the per- 
 " sons above-mentioned ; and after celebrating the mass, 
 clothed in white, shall repair to his grave, with a sprinkler 
 " dipt in holy water, and there say the Psalm de profundi's^ 
 with prayers requisite for the souls aforesaid : When 
 «« done, the said chaplains shall sprinkle the bishop'*s tomb 
 " and the people present with holy water, and weekly cele- 
 '* brate the Placebo and Dirige for the repose of his soul, 
 and those of the persons above named. * 
 " 2. The chaplains aforesaid shall have the care and go- 
 " vernment of the alms-men, to correct, chastise, and pu- 
 " nish them, if necessary ; and if any of them be frequently 
 guilty of breaking the rules and constitutions of the alms- 
 *' house, it shall be lawful for the patrons of the alms-house 
 ** to remove them, and place others in their stead. 
 
 3. That the alms-men shall rise about eight of the 
 Clock in the morning, and say fifteen Pater Nosters, the 
 " same number of Ave Marias, and three Credos in Deum 
 Patrem, in honour of God, the blessed Virgin Mary, his 
 mother, and St Andrew, and St Katherine aforesaid ; and 
 " shall sit and pray before the said chapel for the founder''s 
 " soul, and those of the persons above mentioned ; and on 
 " Sundays and festivals, as often as they enter the church 
 for divine service, shall put on their red gowns, and. at 
 high mass sit before the altar of the chapel in the said 
 " conventual church, and there say fifty Ave Marias, five 
 
25 
 
 PaUr Nostersy and one Credo : And in like manner^ in 
 " time of Vespers, to say two rosaries of the blessed Virgin ; 
 
 and in their red gowns to walk at all public processions ; 
 " to leave their gowns to their successors, and not to beg 
 
 under the pain of ejection, seeing they have sufficient al- 
 
 lowances for their maintenance. Anno 1541." 
 
 The patronage of the above mentioned St Thomases 
 Chapel and alms-house, in the event of the failure of certain 
 persons nominate of the name of Creichton and their heirs, 
 the founder appointed to devolve to the abbot and canons 
 of the Abbey of Holyroodhouse. It was however on 31st 
 March, A. D. 1617, conveyed by the chaplains and headmen, 
 with consent of David Creichton of Lugtoun, the patron, to 
 the magistrates and council of Canongate, for " a certain sum 
 " of money, to be and remain an hospital for the use of the 
 " poor"" of that burgh. And again on the 30th January 1634, 
 it was sold to the kirk-session of Holyroodhouse as an hos- 
 pital for the Canongate poor, at the disposal of that kirk-^ 
 session. 
 
 In the church of Holyrood were kept several relics and 
 bones of saints, which were produced when any public acts 
 were expede ; and our retours of the services of heirs still 
 mention, In capella Domini Nostri Regis.'''' 
 
 At the Reformation, A. D. 1559, this church shared the 
 same fate with almost every similar establishment in the 
 country, in the heat of the infuriated zeal which characterise 
 ed that period. A zeal which, though instigated by a noble 
 and praise- worthy indignation against a most degrading su- 
 perstition, was nevertheless frequently injudiciously exer- 
 cised,* For the 18th June 15G7, two days after Queen 
 
 * The following strange manifesto issued by the rulers of that time, and 
 circulated throughout the country, tends both to shew the narrow views that 
 influenced their proceedings, and to account for the general devastation of all 
 religious structures built prior to the Reformation : — 
 " Tbaist Friends, 
 
 " After maist hartey commendation, we pray you faill not 
 " till pass incontinent to ye kyrk of : . . (Halyrude for instance) and 
 
 D 
 
26 
 
 fiafffi ilftprisonment, the Eatl of Glencaiiii laid waste 
 tbfe beautiful ehurcli, broke in pietes its valuable furniture, 
 Und destroyed the greatest number of its statues, and other 
 Ornaments. 
 
 When this Monastery was dissolved at the Reformation, 
 its revenues were immense ; and lead us to infer, that if not 
 
 ^* tak doun y' haill images yrof, and bryng furth tyll y* Kirkyard and birri 
 thaym oppingly, and syklyk cast doun y^ altris and picturis, and purge y* 
 ** sayd Kyrk o' a' kynds o* monuments of Idolatrie ; and this ye fail not till 
 •* doe, as y® will doe us singular empleseance, and sae committis you tyll y* 
 '* protection of God. From Edinbourygh ye xii of August MDLX. 
 
 (Signed) ** Argyle, 
 
 James Stewart, 
 
 " RUTHVEN.'* 
 
 It is much to be regretted that many to whom commissions of this nature were 
 Entrusted, evinced not merely an antipathy against the superstition they meant 
 lo subvert ; but also a want of discrimination between what was exclusively con- 
 nected with it, and things in themselves sacred. As a lamentable instance of this 
 we remark, that from the mansion house of Munches in Galloway, inhabited 
 by a respectable Catholic family, a Greek New Testament was actually carried 
 off and burnt on Corbelly hill near Dumfries, (the modern Tophet fcr such sa- 
 crifices) merely because it Was written *' in ane unknoian tongy*^ and illuminat- 
 fed with a few enriched capitals* Stat. Acd. VoL XIII. p. 79. 
 
 ** An act passed," says the venerable Spottiswood, *' by the Estates, 
 A. D. 1579, at the desire of the Gtneiul AssevU)/^^ for demolishing what- 
 ever churches had been left undestroyed ; the effects of which were truly 
 pitiable ; iiever was seen such a devastation of churches and church-build- 
 ings throughout every part of the realm. For every one made bold to 
 lend his hand, th6 meaner sort imitating the example of the greater, and 
 those wTio were in authority. No difference was made, but all the churche* 
 were either defaced or pulled to the ground. The holy vessels, or whatever 
 else men could make money of, as timber, lead, and bells, were put to sale. 
 The very Sepulchres of the dead U ere not spared ; the registers of the churches,^ 
 their Bibliothecsj cast into the fire; all was ruined; and what escaped in the 
 time of the first tumult, did now undergo the common calamity ; and the 
 preachers animated the people to follow these barbarous proceedings, by cry- 
 ing out, *' That the places where idols had been worshipped, ought by the law 
 of God to be destroyed, and that the sparing of them was the reserving of 
 things execraife." — Spot. Ch. Hist, 
 
 From this »' incontinent destruction," hardly any thing was spared that 
 could throw the smallest light upon eras prior to that event ; and but for a few 
 mutilated chartul^ries, &c. we would have been left completely in the dark 
 wiifh regard to this interesting period of Scottish History. 
 
the richest, it was one of the most opulent religious estabr 
 lishments in Scotland. According to the two historians of 
 Edinburgh, its annual income at that time was as follows :— f 
 
 By Maitland. 
 
 In Wheat, 27 chalders, 10 bolls. 
 
 In Bear, 40 chalders, 9 bolls. 
 
 In Oats, 34 chalders, 15 bolls, 3 firlots, 34 pecks. 
 501 capons, 24 hens, 24 salmons, 12 loads of salt, besides an 
 unascertained number of swine; and in money £2926 :Ss, 
 6d. Scots. — City Charter and Records, 
 
 By Arnot. 
 
 In Wheat, 442 bolls. 
 
 In Bear, 640 bolls. 
 
 In Oats, 560 bolls. 
 500 capons, 2 doz. hens, 2 doz. salmon, 12 loads salt; be- 
 sides a number of swine, and about £250 sterling in money. 
 
 The Popish Hierarchy having been abolished in Scotland 
 by the Reformation, and the Protestant Religion established 
 in its stead, the superiority of the C'anongate, together with 
 the town of North Leith, part of the barony of Broughton 
 adjoining to the Water or River of Leith, and part of the 
 village called the Pleasants, which had formerly belonged to 
 the canons of Holyrood, were vested at that time in the per- 
 son of the Earl of Roxburgh. From him the Town Coun- 
 cil of Edinburgh purchased these superiorities on the 18th 
 August 1636 for the sum of 42,100 merks Scots, and ob- 
 tained a charter of confirmation in their favour from King 
 Charles I. which is dated 11th December 1639. 
 
 In the year 1607, the district belonging to this Abbey was 
 erected into a temporal lordship in favour of John Bothwell, 
 the commendator, (son to Adam, Bishop of Orkney) who 
 was advanced to the peerage of the realm by the title of 
 Lord Holyroodhouse. This title is now extinct. 
 
 Shortly after this new erection, the inhabitants of North 
 Leith purchased frpm Lord Holyrood the chapel pf §t Ni- 
 
28 
 
 nian,* the chaplain's house, tithes of the lands of Millhouse- 
 field, and offish brought into the harbours of Leith and 
 Newhaven ; with certain houses in North Leith, and several 
 acres of land, of which the profits were to be applied as a 
 maintenance for their minister, &c. " A. D. 1709, North 
 ** Leith was erected into a parish, wholly independent of 
 *' the parish and church of Holj^roodhouse, out of which 
 " they are taken.^ 
 
 "When Edinburgh Was erected into a bishoprick by a char- 
 ier of Charles 1. dated 29th September 1633, afterwards ra- 
 tified by his son Charles II. this church and abbacy of Ho- 
 lyroodhouse were annexed to the new see, and the minister 
 of Holyroodhouse appointed one of the prebendaries in the 
 Cathederal of St Giles. The same charter also provided. 
 
 Sexto, The gift, grant, and mortification, to the bishop of 
 
 Edinburgh, and his successors, (for their rent and patri- 
 " monie, and to uphold such an honourable office and bur- 
 
 den) of the houses, precincts, and yairds of Holyrood- 
 " hous, (with the houses and tenements thereof, being con- 
 " tigue and adjacent) and formerlie belonging to the Abbay 
 
 of Holyroodhous, with the right of superioritie, few fermes, 
 " and rents pertaining of old thereto ; viz, the baronies of 
 " Dunrode, Oldham, alias VVhitekirk, Fairde, &c. with the 
 " right and priviledge of regalitie within the lands and ba- 
 " ronie of Whitekirk, and all other priviledges, profeits, and 
 *^ immunities belonging thereto. Jtejn, of the parishes there 
 *' rehearsed, with the manses, gleibs,, church lands, fruits, 
 " rents and dewties, pertaining thereto, and h^il teynds, 
 " parsonage and vicarage, of these churches, and other 
 " churches and teynds belonging to the said Abbacie ; with 
 
 all the patronages pertaining thereto."" " And or- 
 
 " daines, that the bishops (of Edinburgh) shall have the 
 " sole and undoubted right of superioritie of the vassals and 
 
 their airs, of and within the abbacies of Holyroodhous 
 " and New Abbay, whom they may enter by brievs or pre<- 
 " cepts of dare constat^'''' &c. — Geo. Martine''s Reliquiae Divt. 
 
 • This Chapel was erected at the North end of the old bridge of Leith, (ta- 
 ken down nearly 40 years since,) by Robert Balantyne, Abbot of Holyrood, 
 with consent of his chapter, and approbation of William, Archbishop of St 
 Andrews^ about A. D. 1493. 
 
29 
 
 Andreit, c. IX, § 77/. p. 153. Printed at St Andnws, 1797. 
 And Keith's Catalogue of Scots Bishops. 
 
 According to Arnot) the English Liturgy was read for 20 
 years in this church, (then the place of puhlic worship for 
 the inhabitants of Canongate, and frequented by people of 
 all ranks,) during the reigns of James VI. and Charles I. 
 and but for an occurrence whicii took place in 1G39, might 
 have continued for a longer period. The event alluded to 
 is this : — It having been reported in the harvest of that year, 
 that the Liturgy was to be read as usual before the Marquis 
 of Hamilton, then at Holyroodhouse in the character of com- 
 missioner, sent by Charles I. to treat with the Covenanters, 
 a notice was sent him by the people, that if it should be used 
 there any more, the clergyman who officiated should most 
 certainly be put to death. This is but one of many instances, 
 however, of the determination of the Scots to oppose that 
 monarch''s rash attempt to force a Liturgy into the national 
 church ; and reminds us of the tumult which took place in 
 St Giles, and other churches of Edinburgh, when com- 
 pliance with Charles'" command was attempted on Sunday 
 23d July 1637. On that occasion, neither the presence of 
 the Nobility, Judges, and other civil authorities, nor even 
 the solemn admonition of a venerable Bishop, could entirely 
 quell the expression of dissatisfaction manifested by the 
 people, or prevent the eloquence, and even the missile wea- 
 pons of a much famed female presby terian * from being exer- 
 cised, to the no small annoyance of the officiating clergyman. 
 
 From the Reformation to the reign of James VI L this 
 church had been occupied as the parish church of Canor*- 
 gate, as appears from a letter of that prince to his Privy 
 Council in Scotland, dated at Windsor, 28th June 1697. 
 This mandate orders the Magistrates of Edinburgh to deliver 
 up the keys of this church to tl»e Earl of Perth, the Chan- 
 cellor, that it might be fitted up as a royal chapel for the use 
 of the King's household, while residing at the adjoining Palace 
 of Holyroodhouse, as well as for the instalment and other 
 solemnities of the Knights of the most ancient and most 
 noble Order of the Thistle, then lately revived.-)- 
 
 * Janet Gedd^s. 
 
 t See copy of this Letter in Maitland^s History of Edinburgh, pa§e I t?, 
 
so 
 
 In the meantime, the inhabitants of Canongate were or- 
 dered to accommodate themselves in Lady Yester^s Church, 
 until their present church was built for them. It was only 
 begun however in 16S8. 
 
 Having obtained possession of the conventual church, 
 James VII. caused it to be thoroughly repaired in a sump- 
 tuous manner, for the purposes above mentioned. It was 
 paved with marble of various colours, enriched also with ar- 
 morial devices and Saxon inscriptions, equal in beauty (ac- 
 cording to Slezer, Grose, and others,) to the fine armorial 
 pavement in Gloucester Cathedral. A throne for the Sove- 
 reign, and 12 stalls for the Knights Companions of the 
 Order of the Thistle, with a large and beautiful organ, were 
 likewise erected in it. Workmen were also sent from 
 London, to execute the statues of the Prophets and Twelve 
 Apostles, as additional ornaments to the interior of the 
 building. This design, however, was strenuously resisted 
 by the citizens, and finally rendered impracticable. For, in 
 consequence of a mass having been performed in it at that 
 time, and the King's known attachment to Popery, they al- 
 leged that it was his intention to re-establish the rites and 
 ceremonies of that church ; and that those statues for decora- 
 tion, were ultimately designed as objects of worship. The 
 populace accordingly gave full vent to their fury, and obli- 
 ged the artisans to desist from their undertaking* — They 
 broke into the church, tore up the stalls, and setting fire to 
 the ornamental part of the building, left only the bare walls 
 
 <« Fanatical fury,**' says an elegant writer, *' and politi- 
 « cal apostacy, even went further. They violated the sacred 
 " habitations of the dead, and profaned the sepulchres of 
 " their kings. They outraged its sanctity, by tearing open 
 « the coffins that held the mouldering ashes of James V. of 
 " Magdalene of France his first queen, of the Earl of 
 « Darnley, once their monarch, and of others who had held 
 
 the Scottish sceptre. Avarice maintained divided empire 
 <« with religion over their minds. They sold the lead of 
 
 • Spottiswood's Ap. Slezer'a, Maitland's Hist. 
 
31 
 
 which the coffins were made ! and left the bodies an un- 
 " seemly spectacle, and a degrading memorial of popular 
 « frenzy."* 
 
 The roof of the church having become ruinous, the Barons 
 of Exchequer, upon the representation of the then Duke of 
 Hamilton, heritable keeper of the Palace, engaged an archi- 
 tect and mason to inspect and report upon the building. 
 They accordingly gave in a plan and estimate for a new 
 roof, which were approved of by the Karons, 7th August 
 1758, and soon aRer carried into effect. But instead of making 
 the new roof of wood, and slating it, which was sufficient for 
 the old walls to sustain, (being then upwards of 600 years old, 
 and in a frail state,) the injudicious builders composed a huge 
 roof of flag-stones, accompanied with a considerable quantity 
 of stone work. 'J'he consequence was, that the walls and 
 inner vaulting, unable any longer to sustain their new load, 
 gave way and fell in with the roof and upper stone gallery 
 of the church, during the night between the ^d and 3d De- 
 cember 1768. \ 
 
 " When last we visited this stately edifice, (says Arnot,) 
 " we beheld in the middle of the chapel, the broken shafts of 
 " the columns which had been borne down by the weight of 
 " the roof, which fell in December 2, 1768, through the ex- 
 " treme avarice of a stupid architect. Upon looking into 
 " the vaults, the doors of which were open, we found that 
 " what had escaped the fury of the mob at the Revolution, 
 " became a prey to the rapacity of those who ransacked the 
 " church after it fell. 
 
 " In A. D. 1776, we had seen the body of James V. and 
 " some others in their leaden coffins. These coffins were 
 « now stolen. The head of Queen Magdalene, which was 
 " then entire, and even beautiful, and the skull of Darnley, 
 " were then also stolen ; his thigh bones however still re- 
 " main, and are proof of the vastness of his stature.""-)- 
 
 • Border Ant. No. VII, p. 78, &c. 
 
 t They are now deposited in the Royal Vault, which has been since rtpaired 
 and secured by strong doors, the keys of which are in the custody of the Ba- 
 rons of Exchequer. 
 
32 
 
 From the fall of the roof and walls in 1768, the church 
 was suflered to become a prey to the ravages of time, and 
 the large and elegant window yielded to an extraordinary 
 tempest in 179.5. 
 
 Thus fell the beautiful monastery of Sancta-Crucis, or 
 Ilolyroody after braving the fury of its enemies for nearly 
 seven centuries. 
 
 While we are thus obliged to record the fatal effects of 
 hasty zeal that revenged itself against ihe unconscious fabrics 
 reared by tiie piety and skill of a superstitious age, and 
 mourn over their ruins with unavailing regret, it is with 
 no small pleasure that we now contemplate the liberal ideas of 
 an enlightened age which have induced the Crown to protect 
 the remains of these monuments of our ancient grandeur. 
 
 The Honourable Barons of Exchequer have of late watch- 
 ed over the ruins in Scotland belonging to the Crown with 
 the most praise-worthy anxiety ; and while every thing in 
 their power has been done for the preservation of the vari* 
 ous ancient ecclesiastical buildings, they have not been spar- 
 ing of endeavours to protect from the ravages of time, and 
 the still more destructive hand of man, the remains of the 
 Abbey of Holyroodhouse. They accordingly gave orders in 
 the year 181 6 for repairing these ruins, so as to preserve 
 them in the precise state they were at the time ; and their 
 directions have been executed with great care, and in good 
 tabte. 
 
 I.— LIST of CHURCHES and RELIGIOUS HOUSES 
 that were dependent upon the Abbey of SANCXyE Crucis, 
 
 or HOLYBOOD. 
 
 1. St Maiiy''s Isle, near Kirkcudbright, in Galloway, 
 which was founded in the reign of Malcolm IV. or rather 
 David I. by Fergus, Lord of Galloway, and called Prioratus 
 Sanclee Maria de TraylL The monks were of the same or- 
 
33 
 
 der of regulars as those of Holyrood, and their prior was a 
 Lord, and member of the Scots Parliament. 
 
 2. BlantyrEj in Clydesdale, a priory of the same order^ 
 was founded before A. D. 1296; for at that time Frere 
 William^ Prior de Blanti/r, is mentioned as a subscriber to 
 RagmarC s Holt, Pri/nne, p. 663. Walter Stuart, commendator 
 of this place, was Lord Privy Seal in the year 1595, and 
 soon afterwards treasurer, upon the Master of Glammis's 
 dismission. He was also raised to the peerage by the title 
 of Lord Blanti/re, on the 10th July 1606, from whom is 
 descended the present nobleman of that name. 
 
 3. RbwADiLL, in the Isle of Harries, in Ross-shire, 
 founded by M*Leod of Harries. It was situate on the south- 
 east point of that island, on the sea coast, under Ben Rowa- 
 dill. 
 
 4. CuusAY, in the western isles, founded by St Columba. 
 
 5. Oronsay, one of the western isles in the shire of 
 Argyle) founded also by the said St Columba. It gave the 
 title of Lord to the Earls of Islay, who are now extinct. 
 
 6. CoLUNSAY, one of the western isles of Argyleshire, 
 was an abbey, founded by the Lord of the Isles, the canons 
 whereof were brought from Holyroodhouse. There is very 
 little known of what took place there or in the other islands, 
 both on account of their remote situation, and the loss of 
 their records.— ^See Spottiswood''s Religious Houses annexed to 
 Hope's Minor Praclicksi, 
 
 IL— LIST OF ABBOTS, &c. 
 
 The following imperfect list which History or Tradition 
 has now left of the Abbots and other inmates of this mo- 
 nastery, is still interesting and worthy of preservation. 
 
 MCXXVIII. — The first abbot was Alcucius, who relin- 
 quished his charge the following year. To him succeeded 
 Osbert, who died A. D. MCXXIX, who was succeeded by- 
 William III. Abbot. 
 
 MCL.— Alwinis abbot of the See. (Nicl. Hist. lib. p. 353. 
 
 MCLX.— Fergus, Lord of Galloway, one of its noblest 
 
 E 
 
34 
 
 and earliest benefactors, having sought an asyhim here from 
 the cares and troubles of a turbulent period, paid the great 
 debt of nature within its hallowed walls. His relics were 
 interred near to the high altar, with all the pomp and splen- 
 dour of monastic solemnity. 
 
 MCLXXVIII.— William, abbot of Holyrood, is a wit- 
 ness to a charter granted to the abbey of Arbroath. ( Cart, 
 Aberbro.) 
 
 MCCVL— John, bishop of Candida Casa, or Whithorn, 
 in Galloway, closed a long life of religious labour and devo- 
 tion in this Abbey. 
 
 MCCVII. — William being abbot of this church, John 
 bishop of Candida Casa, relinquishing his pastoral charge, 
 became a monk under him. Died, and was buried in the 
 church of Holyrood, A. D. 1209. 
 
 MCCIX.— Walter Prior of Icolmkill made Abbot of 
 Holyrood. 
 
 Jan. MCCXII. Died Walter, abbot of Holyrood, to 
 whom succeeded William, formerly an eleve in this Abbey. 
 
 MCCXXI. — William, ejected from his pastoral office, to 
 whom succeeded William the son of Owin, a man well 
 esteemed and honourable ; 
 
 MCCXXVI. — On account of his age and infirmities he 
 resigns his charge, and entered as a hermit into the island of 
 Inchkeith ; to whom succeeded Helias, the son of Nicholai, 
 a priest, a man devout and of good speech. 
 
 MCCXXXI.— Died Osbert, bishop of Dumblane, canon 
 of Holyrood. 
 
 MCCXXXIX.— A grand festival held in the Abbey of 
 Holyrood in honour of the Pope'^s legate. 
 
 MCCXCVI.— The abbot of Holyrood did homage to Ed- 
 ward I. of England, for the lands of the said abbey, in the 
 counties of Stirling, Dumfries, Edinburgh, and Berwick. 
 
 Abbas de Sanctae Cruce, vice comitatibus de Strivelene. 
 " Dumfres, Edenbourge, Berwicke,"*' &c. Rot, Scot, e. ri, m, 
 11 and 10. 
 
 MCCCLV. — Henry, abbot of Holyrood, chosen bishop of 
 Candida Casa. Chart of Dunfermline, Consecrated by the 
 
35 
 
 Archbishop of York ; is one of those chosen in the grand 
 disputes between Bruce and Baliol, 1262. Rymer's Feod 
 torn. 11, p. 555. 
 
 MCCCLXXXI. — The famous John, duke of Lancaster, 
 died an inmate of this Monastery. 
 
 MCCCCXL. — John, bishop elect of Galloway, became 
 an inmate of Holyrood Abbey, and was buried within its 
 cloisters in 1448. 
 
 MCCCCLVII.—Archibaldus Crafurd, abbot of Holyrood, 
 treasurer to James III. repaired the north side of the abbey, 
 and built the flying buttresses with which it was adorned. 
 Died in 14S3. 
 
 Robert Ballantyne, abbot of, Holyrood-house, who with 
 consent of the abbot of St Andrews, built the chapel of St 
 Ninian in North Leith, 1493. 
 
 MD. — Robert Ballantyne, abbot of Holyrood, founded an 
 hospital at St Leonards. 
 
 MDXV. — John, abbot of Holyrood, confirms a charter to 
 the church of Restalrig. 
 
 MDXLVI. — Robert, abbot of Holyrood, presented Pre- 
 bend to the church of St Mary'*s in the Field. 
 
 MDLXX.— Adam Both well, abbot and commendator of 
 Holyrood. He was son of Mr Francis Bothwell, one of 
 the Senators of the College of Justice, and born A. D. 1532 
 His mother was Janet Richardson, daughter and co-heiress 
 of Patrick Richardson of Meldrumsheugh, burges of Edin- 
 burgh. He was preferred to the see of Orkney, by Queen 
 Mary, on 8th October 1562, after he had been duly elected 
 by the Chapter. He was one of the four Bishops who em- 
 braced the reformed religion : but it does not appear that he 
 exercised any ecclesiastical jurisdiction under that govern- 
 ment. Bishop Bothwell was the person who performed the 
 ceremony of marriage between Queen Mary and the Earl of 
 Bothwell; and notwithstanding his having urged that junc- 
 tion, was one of those who persecuted that beautiful and un^ 
 fortunate Princess.* He was afterwards one of the Judges 
 
 * " The marriage was made at the Palace in Ilolj/roodhousCf after sermon, 
 ** by Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney, in the great hall where the Council 
 
 E 2 
 
36 
 
 of the Court of Sessions, to which he was nominated two 
 years after his elevation to the Episcopal Dignity; and 
 having the property of the Bishoprick of Orkney in his own 
 person, he excambed the greater part of it for the Abbacy 
 in 1570 with Robert Stewart, the Queen's natural brother, 
 after which he was designed Bishop of Orkney and Abbot 
 of Holyroodhouse. He died on the 23d August 1593, in 
 the 67th year of his age, and was interred near to the great 
 altar of this church, of which he had been Abbot and Com- 
 mendator for upwards of twenty years, -f- 
 The said Robert Stewart, &c. &c. 
 
 MDCVII. — John Bothwell, commendator of Holyrood, 
 and son of Adam Both well, bishop of Orkney. He was ad- 
 vanced to the peerage of Scotland 2()th December 1607, by 
 the* title of Lord Holyroodhouse. 
 
 MONUMENTS, &c. 
 
 One of the entrances to these interesting ruins is by a pri- 
 vate door in the N. E. corner of the Quadrangle of the palace. 
 In the middle of the passage leading from hence to the in- 
 terior of the Abbey, is shown a flat square stone, under 
 which the unfortunate Rizzio is said to have been buried. 
 This, however, is merely conjectural, as one historian 
 has pointed out, so far as he knows, the precise spot 
 where this Italian musician was entombed. This stone, 
 however, bears every mark of a Sepulchral Monument ; 
 a Shield, with Saxon characters rudely sculptured around it 
 
 •* used to sit, according to the order of the reformed religion, and not in the 
 Chapel at the Mass, as was the King's marriage." — Scott's Memoirs of Sir 
 
 James Melvil, 8vo. p. 160. Edin. 1735. 
 
 t Keith's Catalogue. A. Stewart's MS. Hist. Wood's Peer. vol. i. p. 729, 
 
37 
 
 Xnay be faintly traced ; but whether relating to Rizzio is a 
 matter of conjecture.* 
 
 Proceeding thence along the west end of the Church, the 
 first monument we meet with is a plain slab elevated upon 
 four other stones in the form of a chest, and denominated 
 in Wales, Kist vaeiis, and in the south of Scotland Troughs, 
 from their resemblance to the figure of that vessel. This 
 altar tomb, ornamented with the greatest simplicity, serves to 
 point out the spot where repose the ashes of the Right Hon- 
 purable Lord and Lady Reay ; and is thus inscribed : — 
 Under this stone. 
 Are laid the remains of 
 The late Right Honourable George Lord Reay 
 And Elizabth Fairley his wife, 
 In the grave thus undivided. 
 As in life they were united, 
 In that Divine bond 
 Of Christian Faith and Love, 
 Which enobled their earthly affection, 
 By elevating each view and desire 
 In one undeviating course. 
 Towards another and a better world. 
 George Lord Reay died 27th February 1768, 
 Aged 34. 
 
 Elizabeth Lady Reay died 10th November 1800. 
 Aged 61. 
 
 This stone is Inscribed, January 1810, 
 In token of grateful respect and affection. 
 By their Daughters, 
 The Honourable Mrs H. Fullarton, 
 And the Honourable Georgina M'Kay, 
 
 f David Rizzio was a native of Turin, a town in the north of Italy. He 
 came here with the Ambassador from Savoy, and thus got introduced to the 
 Scottish Court. He was employed by Queen Mary to sing 6ass, and having 
 ingratiated himself into her favour by his almost enchanting musical powers, 
 was, when the French secretary retired to France, appointed to fill his place. 
 
 W. S. 
 
38 
 
 A lew yards further, in the same direction, is the vcsti y, 
 within the North-west, and only remaining tower of the 
 Church. Here is placed the magnificent Sepulchre of Ro- 
 bert Viscount Belhaven. 
 
 " Among the monuments, (says Pennant when describing 
 
 the Savoy Chapel, in his Survey of London, that in tlie 
 «« chancel to the memory of the wife Sir Robert Douglas, 
 " Lord Belhaven, merits particular notice. The lady, who 
 *< died A. D. 1612, is but a secondary/ figure^ and placed kneel- 
 
 ing behind her husband, dressed in a vast distended hood. 
 " Before her is his lordship, in an easy attitude, reclined, 
 
 and resting on his right arm, the other hand on his sword. 
 " He is represented in armour, with a robe over it. On his 
 
 head is a fillet, with a bead round the edge ; a motto on 
 
 his arms, " Lock sicker^ The sculpture is very simi- 
 
 lar to that in Holyrood Abbey, and there is great merit 
 *^ in the figure.* Engravings of these effigies may be seen in 
 " Pinkerton's ' Jnconagrapfda Scotica? The epitaph upon 
 " her ladyship's monument, in the most hyperbolical strain 
 
 of eulogy, has been printed in the 2d vol. of the new edi- 
 
 tion of Stow's Survey, and Wood's edition of the Peerage. 
 
 Lord Belhaven was page of honour to Henry Prince of 
 *^ Wales ; and on the death of that lamented prince was ap- 
 
 pointed gentleman of the bed-chamber to James VI. and 
 " afterwards to Charles I. and was also sworn of the most 
 
 honourable privy council to his Majesty. A characteristic 
 " anecdote is related of his lordship by Bishop Burnet on 
 
 the authority of Sir Archibald Primrose. 
 
 When the Earl of Nithsdale came down to Scotland for 
 
 the redemption of church lands and tithes, thoSe who were 
 " principally concerned agreed, that if nothing could make 
 
 him desist, they would fall upon him and his party and put 
 
 them to death. Lord Belhaven, who was blind, desired to 
 « be placed by one of the party, of whom he might make 
 " sure. Accordingly he was seated next to the Earl of Dum- 
 
 • Vide Pennant's Lon. p. 202. The New View of Lon. p. 11, 402. Stow's 
 Lon, V. 11, 108. Wood's Peerage, vol. 1. &c. 
 
39 
 
 " fries, whom he held fast all the time of the meeting. Be- 
 ing asked what he meant, he replied, that ever since the 
 blindness came on him he was always afraid of falling, and 
 " clunsf fast to him that was nearest to him. In the other 
 *' hand he grasped a dagger, with which he intended to have 
 " stabbed the Earl had any disorder taken place.'** His lord- 
 ship married Nicholas, eldest daughter of Sir Robert Moray 
 of Abercairney, by Catharine, daughter of Sir William Mur- 
 ray of Tulibardine, and sister to Annabella Countess of 
 Mar.-(- She died A. D. 1612, of her first child, after being 
 eighteen months married ; and both were entombed in a pre- 
 mature grave in the Savoy Chapel, London. His lordship 
 died at Edinburgh, January 24, 1639, in the 66th year of 
 his age, and was interred with great ceremony in Holyrood- 
 Abbey, where his nephews, Sir Archibald and Sir Robert 
 Douglasses, placed this splendid monument, to perpetuate 
 his virtues as a man, and his steadiness as a patriot. 
 
 Upon an altar tomb (as the accompanying plate represents. 
 No. 2.) is placed his Lordship'*s Statue in a recumbent pos- 
 ture, the right arm rests upon a cushion which seems to yield 
 to the pressure, the left hand grasps the pommel of his sword, 
 which hangs negligently down towards the feet. He is ar- 
 rayed in his robes of state, and the flowing folds of the drap- 
 ery has the ease and grace of the finest Italian statuaries. 
 His head is encircled with a Viscount''s Coronet, and the 
 whole figure certainly vies with the most finished piece of 
 sculpture in Westminster Abbey. This stately monument 
 is of Parian marble, brought from Italy. The columns and 
 pediment that form the recess in which the statute is placed, 
 are of a fancy order; the columns fluted, and the pedi- 
 ment open, in which is a shield, charged with the armorial 
 bearings of his gallant ancestors, viz. A heart crowned impe- 
 rally, gules ; three stars of Jive points, argent ; three piles is^ 
 suing from the chief gules ; within a double tressure flowered, 
 and counter flowered. The shield is surmounted by a Hel- 
 met sable, supported on the dexter side by a naked Savage, 
 wreathed and girdled with laurel, holding in his right hand a 
 -|- Vide Notes to Lad/ Mary Stewart, &c. 
 
40 
 
 batton proper. On the sinister side by a Lion, right hand 
 a batton proper. On the sinister side hy a Lion, langued 
 and rampant, proper. Motto, " Torsjorr sans tacheJ''' The 
 Marshalling of these arms shews his Lordship's near relation 
 to the Douglas's, Earls of Morton. 
 
 Within the arched recess is placed the following classical 
 inscription. On the one side, — 
 
 D. O. M. 
 
 Quod reliquum apud nos est, hid 
 conditur Roberti vicecomitis de 
 Belhaven, Baronis de Spot, etc. — Reg! 
 Carolo, a Secretioribus Consiliis, et 
 inter familiares intimi quippe qui et 
 pritis Henrico Vallle gratissim, ejusq. 
 Stabulis prfefect. erat. Illio vero fatis 
 cedente, fratri Carolo nunc rerum 
 potito in qusestoram domus adscitus 
 est, singulari favoris gradu acceptus, 
 re et honoribus auctus. In juventute 
 Nicole MoRAViiE, Abercarniie Comarcha 
 nate, ad octodecim non Amplius Menses 
 imicse uxoris in puerperio simul cum 
 foetu extinctse, lectissimo consortio 
 aulico strepitu (ut morum illico et 
 malorum temporum pertsesus) sub- 
 tahens, in patriam reversus est. 
 
 ArCHIBALDUM etRoBERTUM DOUGLASIOS, 
 
 Equites auratos, primsevi fratris filios, 
 terris et bonis prseterque testamento 
 legavit, sequa lance divisis, hseredes 
 Scripsit ; qui memoriae ejus, 
 gratitudinis suse 
 
 Pignus. 
 H. M. P. C. 
 
 On the other side, — 
 
 Ingenium, quod Uteris cultura 
 non implevit ragacitate natura 
 
41 
 
 Supplevit ; 
 indolis bonitate et candore tiulli 
 cessit. Facile succendi, at, dutn loquimur, 
 facilius defervescere : 
 ei in moribus, quod seque ab omnibus 
 vix acciperetur, unicum 
 erat. 
 
 Fide in Regem, Pietate in patriam, 
 Officiis in Amicos, Charitate in 
 EgenoS) nulli secundus ; 
 cui in prosperis modus et comitas, 
 in adversis Constantia et Magna- 
 nimitas, ad Supremum usque diem 
 invaluere. 
 Obiit Edinburgi prid. Idus Januarii, 
 Anno ob incarnatione Messi^ 
 Supra CIo. loCXXXIX. 
 iEtatis vero 
 ultra Clymatericum magnum, 
 Tertio. 
 Translated. 
 
 Here are interred the remains of Robert Lord Viscount 
 Belhaven, Baron of Spot, &c. Counsellor to King Charles, 
 and most intimately in favour with him, because formerly 
 he had been most dear to Henry Prince of Wales, and Mas- 
 ter of his horse. But he being dead, and Charles his bro- 
 ther now reigning, he was made Chamberlain to the king's 
 household, and entertained with a singular degree of favour^ 
 and advanced to great honours and wealth. In his youth 
 he enjoyed the sweet society of Nicholas Murray, daughter to 
 the Baron of Abercairney, his only wife ; who lived with him 
 not above 18 months, and died in child-bed with her child. 
 When grievous old age came upon him, (as weary of bad 
 times and customs,) withdrawing himself from the noise of 
 the court, he returned to his country. He nominated Sir 
 Archibald and Sir Robert Douglasses, baronets, sons to his 
 eldest brother, to be his heirs, dividing equally amongst them 
 all his lands and goods, except some legacies ; and they erect- 
 ed this monument to his memory as a token of their gratitude. 
 
42 
 
 Nature supplied in him hj sagacity, what his mind want- 
 ed of education. He was inferior to none in a good capacity* 
 and candour. He would soon be angry, but was as soon 
 calmed. This is one thing he had in his life, which scarcely 
 could be alike acceptable to all ; for loyalty towards his 
 prince, love to his country, kindness to his relations, and 
 charity to the poor, he was singular. In prosperity he was 
 meek and moderate ; in adversity his constancy and magna- 
 nimity prevailed to his very end. He died at Edinburgh the 
 12th day of January, and from the incarnation of the Mes- 
 siah 1669, and of his age 63, being the third year above his 
 great climacterie. 
 
 Proceeding along the north aisle of the church, over a 
 pavement rich ift Saxon characters and armorial bearings^ 
 though now much dilapidated, we meet with the tombs of 
 those who had formerly been deposited within its consecrated 
 walls. The first, a little from the vestry door, is supposed 
 to have belonged to Sir George Sterline of Keir. The fol- 
 lowing inscription was perfect in the time of Monteith, who 
 has copied it into his " Theatre of Mortality ;"" though little, 
 or almost none of it, can now be made out. 
 
 D. O. M. 
 
 Here lyeth Dam Margaret Ross, daughter to James Lord 
 Ross ; and Dam Margaret Scot, daughter to Walter Lord 
 Buccleugh, and sister to Walter Scot Earl of Buccleugh. She 
 was married to Sir George Sterline of Keir, knight, and chief 
 of his name ; and having lived a pattern and paragon for 
 piety, and debonairitie, beyond her sex and age, when she 
 had accomplished 1 7 years, she was called from this transi- 
 tory life to that eternal, 10th March MDCXXXIII. She 
 left behind her only one daughter, Margaret, who, in her 
 pure innocency, soon followed her mother, the 11th day of 
 May thereafter, when she had been 12 months shewn to this 
 world, and here lyeth near unto her interred. 
 
 D, Georgius Sterline de Keir, eques auratus ; familae prin- 
 ceps, cpnjugi dulcissimse poni curavit, MDCXXXIIL 
 
43 
 
 At each corner below five roses, two and two, and one in 
 the centre with a scroll above, bearing over each compart- 
 ment the following words : " Mors scientibus arquaC 
 And below is the following inscription : 
 
 " Though marble, porpherie, and mourning touch 
 May praise these spoils, yet can they not so much 
 For beauty, last, and fame, this stone doth close 
 One, earth's delight, Heaven's care, a spotless rose. 
 And shouldst thou Reader, but vouchsafe a tear 
 Upon it, other flowers will soon appear. 
 Sad violets and hi/acinths which grow 
 With marks of grief, a publip loss to shew. 
 
 Stone farther east : 
 
 Heir lyis an honorable voman callit Margaret Erskin, 
 lady Alerdes and Dame, xyii Jvly 1599. 
 
 On a neat monument near the two remaining pillars on 
 the North side, the following is inscribed upon an eliptical 
 marble tablet, inserted in the stone. 
 
 Sacred 
 To the Memory of 
 The Right Honourable 
 
 Eleanora 
 Dowager Lady Saltoun, 
 Widow of 
 George Lord Saltoun, 
 Who died on the 13th, 
 And was interred here 
 On the 18th day of September 1800. 
 In the 70th year of her age. 
 
 Next the wall betwixt the pillars, on a plain stone, lying 
 on the ground, placed over the remains of the Earl of Selkirk, 
 inscribed as follows : 
 
 Dunbar Douglas, 
 Earl of Selkirk, 
 Born 1st December 1722, 
 Died 24th May 1799. 
 
44 
 
 Lying on the south of the above : 
 
 Heir \yis ane Honest Man Robert Votherspone, burgis and 
 deacon of ye Hammermen in ye Canogait. R. V. 1520. 
 
 A little to the east of the above monuments, the following 
 inscription appears. 
 
 Under this stone lye the remains 
 of 
 
 The Honourable John Maule, Esq. 
 Thirty-two years one of the 
 Barons of Exchequer, 
 Scotland. 
 Died the 2d of July 1781. 
 Aged 75 years. 
 
 Still farther east. 
 
 To the memory of 
 John Woodford, Esq. 
 Late Lieutenant Colonel 
 Of the North Fencibles or 
 Gordon Highlanders, 
 Who died the 18th April 1800, 
 Aged years. 
 
 On a stone lying beside the former, but towards the 
 south,—- 
 
 The Right Honourable 
 Lady Elizabeth Wemyss, 
 Widow of the late Honourable 
 James Wemyss of W emyss, 
 And sister to 
 William, late Earl of Sutherland, 
 Died on the 24th January 1803, 
 Aged 64? years. 
 
45 
 
 The intermediate stones seem to have been placed over the 
 graves of the more opulent citizens of the burgh of Canon- 
 gate, w^ho were formerly interred here during the time of 
 Episcopacy in Scotland. 
 
 Between the two remaining columns in this direction, we 
 meet with the tombstone of James Douglas, Lord Carlisle, 
 and Totherwald, and his spouse Agnes Carlyle, heiress of 
 that ilk,* The inscription goes round the border of the 
 stone first, then proceeds regularly across the body of it in 
 Roman characters, and may be read as follows: See Engraving* 
 
 Inscription. 
 
 " Heir lyis ye nobil and poten Lord, James Dovglas, 
 Lord of Cairlell, and Torthorall, vha marrid Daime Elie- 
 " zabeth Cairlell, air and heritrix yalof ; vha vas slaine in 
 " Edinburghe ye xiiii day of Ivly, the in ye zeier of God 
 « 1608. vas slain in 48 ze. L. I. D. E. Cr 
 
 His Lordship was killed in an affray on the streets of 
 Edinburgh, July 14th 1608, in the 48th year of his age. 
 Under the inscription is enchased upon an antique shield, 
 the patent arms of the House of Douglas, quartered with 
 those of the noble family of Carlisle and Tortherwald ; viz. 
 beneath a chief charged with three pellets, a saltier proper ; 
 the crest resembled a rose, but which is undoubtedly a star 
 of the first order. 
 
 A little to the north-east is erected a very handsome mo- 
 nument to the memory of George Wishart, Bishop of the 
 diocese of Edinburgh. He was descended from the family of 
 Logic in Angus ; he was first ordained minister in North 
 Leith, and deposed A. D. 1638, for refusing to take the 
 
 • The lineal descendant and representative of this once illustrious family, 
 ** is Mr Carlyle, Advocate, Edinburgh. The domains are now in possession 
 " of the most noble the Marquis of Queensberry." 
 
 Note by the Rev. Henry Duncan of Ruthwell, to the Description of the 
 Ancient Town of Totherwald. 
 
46 
 
 Covenant. Several correspondence having been detected he 
 tween him and the royalists, he was frequently plundered of 
 all his goods, and reduced to the greatest hardships, being 
 thrown prisoner into The Thieves' Hole, one of the most 
 abominable cells of the old tolbooth of Edinburgh. On 
 his delivery from this cruel j)ersecution, he went beyond 
 seas, and accompanied the gallant Marquis of Montrose, in 
 quality of his chaplain. After the fall of his illustrious 
 patron, he was appointed chaplain to Elizabeth Queen of 
 Bohemia, sister to Charles I. with whom he came over into 
 England, A. D. 1660, to visit her royal nephew, Charles II, 
 after his happy restoration. Shortly after this, Mr Wise- 
 heart had the rectory of Newcastle-upon-Tyne conferred 
 upon him, where he was greatly venerated for his unshaken 
 fidelity. On the restoration of Episcopacy in Scotland, he 
 was preferred to the see of Edinburgh, into which he was 
 consecrated 1st June 1662, at St Andrews, where he con- 
 tinued till his death, A D 1671,* and was buried in this 
 abbey church. 
 
 This reverend prelate was a person of a very pious and 
 benevolent disposition ; and having been himself a prisoner, 
 is reported every day at dinner to have sent off the first 
 mess, after blessing, to the prisoners. 
 
 He wrote the History of the War In Scotland, under the 
 conduct of the gallant Marquis of Montrose, in elegant 
 Latin, under the title of " J. G. l)e rebus auspiciis serenis- 
 " simi et potentissimi Caroli, Dei Gratia Magnae Britannise 
 " Regis, et cet. Sub imperio illustrissimi Jacobi Montis- 
 
 rosarum, Marchionis, Comites de Kincardin, &c. supremi 
 " Scotise gubernatoris. Anno MCXLIV. et duobus sequen- 
 " tibus, preclare gestis, commentarius. Interprete, A. S, 
 
 " Pars secunda, de ejusdam Marchionis rebus gestis, ab 
 « Anno MDCXLVII. et MDCL.^f 
 
 His arms are finely cut over the top of an arched recess; 
 viz. on a shield a Bishop's mitre, with a pastoral staff and 
 
 • Keith's Cat. 30. 
 t MS. in Bib. Senat. Colleg. &c. 
 
47 
 
 tross of coral, mltief ways ; motto, Pro deo ut Pdirid 
 beneath is the following inscription j 
 
 Hic recubat celebriiJ Doctor Sophocardius * alter, 
 
 Entheus ille Sei^o? «s£p^2o$ Agricola. + 
 Orator fervore pio, facundior olim 
 
 Doctiloquis rapiens pectora dura modis. 
 Ternus ut Antistes Wiseheart, ita ternus Edineni, 
 
 Candoris columen nobile, semper idem. 
 Plus octogenis hinc gens Sophocardia lustris 
 
 Summis hic mitris claruit, atque tholis : 
 i)um cancellarius regni Sophocardius, idem, 
 
 Praesul erat Fani, Regulae, Sanctse, tui. | 
 Atque ubi pro regno, ad Norham, contendit avito 
 
 Brussius, indomita mente manuque potens ; 
 Glasuus Robertus erat Sophocardius alter, 
 
 Pro patria, qui se fortiter opposuit. § 
 Nec pacis studiis Gulielmo, animisve Roberto, 
 
 Agricola inferior, cjetera forte prior ; 
 Jlxcelsus sine fastu animus, sine fraude benignusj 
 
 Largus qui miseris, intemerata fides. 
 Attica rarafides ; constantia raraque nullis 
 
 Expugnata, licet mille petita, malis. 
 In regem, obsequii exemplar, civisque fidelis, 
 
 Antiquam venerans, cum probitate, fidem. 
 Omnibus exutum ter, quem proscriptio career, 
 
 Exilium, lustris non domuere tribus, 
 Ast reduci Carolo plaudunt ubi regna Secundo, 
 
 Uoctori Wiseheart insula plaudit ovans. 
 Olim ubi captivus, squalenteque carcere Isesus, 
 
 Annos ler ternos, preesul honorus obit. 
 
 * Sophocardius Wiseheart or Wishart, the true name is Guiscard; they 
 were descended from the Guiscards of Normandy, and came with Baliol their 
 countryman. — Vide Irvine's Mem. Scot. p. 228^ 
 
 t Vide Hist. Spots, p. 76. anno 1544. 
 
 $ Anno 1271. Ibid. p. 46. 
 
 § Anno 1279. Ibid. p. 48 and 113. 
 
I 
 
 48 
 
 Vixit Olympiadas ter quinas ; Nestoris annos 
 Vovit Edina : obitum Scotia mcesta dolet. 
 
 Gestaque Montrosei, Latio celebrate Cothurno : 
 Quantula (proh) tanti sunt monumenta viri 1 
 
 Translated. 
 
 " Another famous Doctor Wiseheart, here 
 
 Divine George AViseheart lies, as may appear ; 
 
 Great orator, with eloquence and zeal, 
 
 Whereby on hardest hearts he did prevail. 
 
 Three Wisehearts, Bishops, so the third was he. 
 
 When Bishop of fair Ed"*nburgh''s diocie. 
 
 Candour in him was noble ; free of stain ; 
 
 In cases all, the same he did remain. — ' 
 
 Above four hundred years great WisehearCs name. 
 
 For honours, has pure and untainted fame ; 
 
 While one thereof both purse and mitre bore, 
 
 Chancellor and Bishop near St Andrew's choir ; 
 
 And when brave Bruce did for his nation plead, 
 
 At Norham, with undaunted hand and head. 
 
 Then Robert Wiseheart sat in Glasgow's chair. 
 
 With courage for his bounty singular. 
 
 To these great George was not inferior 
 
 In peace, and was elsewhere superior. 
 
 High, without pride ; — his bounty had no guile. 
 
 His charity to th' poor nought could defile, 
 
 His loyalty untainted — faith most rare, 
 
 Athenian faith, was constant every where. 
 
 And though a thousand evils did controul. 
 
 None could overcome his high and lofty soul — 
 
 To King and Country he v/as faithful still ; 
 
 Was good and just, ev'n from a constant will. 
 
 Thrice spoil'd and banish'd, for full fifteen years. 
 
 His mind unshaken, — cheerful still he bears 
 
 Deadly proscription, nor the nasty gaol 
 
 Could not disturb his great seraphic soul. 
 
 But when the nation's King, Charles the second blest 
 
 On his return from sad exile to rest ; 
 
49 
 
 They then received great Doctor Wiseheart^Hz 
 Was welcome made, by church and laity ; 
 And where he had been long in prison sore. 
 He nine years Bishop, did them good therefor. 
 At length he dy'd in honour ; where his head 
 To much hard usage was accustomed. 
 He liv"*d 'bove seventy years — and Edinburgh town 
 Wish'd him old Nestor s age, in great renown ; 
 Yea Scotland, sad with grief, condoPd his fall, 
 And to his merits gave just funeral. 
 Montrose's acts, in Latin forth he drew ; 
 Of one so great, ah ! monuments so few."" 
 
 On the east side of Bishop Wiseheart's monument, a small 
 neat cenotaph, with pillars of the Corinthian order, is placed 
 to perpetuate the memory of George 19th Earl of Suther- 
 land. On the top are placed the paternal arms of this illustri- 
 ous house, quartered with the various noble families to which 
 they are allied, viz. Gules, three stars witkin a border, or 
 charged with a double tres sure, flowered and counter-flowered, (as 
 a mark of the royal descent of the family from King Robert 
 I.) Crest, a cat sejent proper, on the other department of the 
 shield quarterly first and fourth ; barry of eight argent, and 
 gules, surmounted by a cross floree, second and third; azure, 
 three laurel leaves erect ; crest, a wolf passant ; motto, Fran-- 
 za non fleclesy On the pillars are placed within circles coro- 
 nets of several of the nobility of Scotland, from whom they 
 deduce their maternal lineage ; particularly, Gordon, Lenno^g 
 Elphinstone, Perth, and Eglintoune, 
 
 D. G. V. SUTHERLANDI^. 
 
 Memoriae illustrissimi Domini, Georgii Sutherlandise et 
 Strathnavernise, &c. Dynastse ; Sutherlandise et Strathna- 
 verniae, jure hsereditario ; Vicecomitis ac regalitatis Domini; 
 ex sigilli magni custodibus unius ; Regi Gulielmo a secre- 
 
 G 
 
50 
 
 tioribus consiliis, decimi noni comitis recta linea oriundi ab 
 Allan Sutherlandiae Thano ; quem Milcolumbo tertio, hae- 
 redi legitimo regniim restituere conantem, e medio sustulit 
 Macbethus; cum tyrannidem occupasset, circum annum 
 serse Christians MLVII. Hoc famse perennis monumen- 
 tum deflens posuit vidua, Joanno Vemia, filiarum Davidis, 
 comitis, Vemii, natu maxima; quae huic comiti peperit 
 JoANNEM, nunc Sutherlandiae comitem, et Annam Arbuth- 
 NOTi vicecomitissam ; priori vero marito, Archie aldo An- 
 GUSiiE comiti, filio Marchionis Duglassiorum natu maximo, 
 Archiialdum Forfaro comitem, et Margaretam vicecomiti, 
 de KiNGSTOUN, in matremonium datam. Quinque alii hujus 
 Dominae liberi impueres decesserunt. 
 
 Natus in arce sua, de Dornach, 2do, Novembns, 
 MDCXXXIII, denatus Edinburgi 4to Martii, A. D. 
 MDCCIII. 
 
 That is, 
 
 To the memory of the most illustrious Lord George Earl 
 of Sutherland, Lord Strathnaver, &c. heritable Sheriff of 
 said lands, and lord of the regality thereof ; one of the 
 Keepers of the Great Seal, under the most renowned Prince 
 King William, one of the Lords of Privy Council, and the 
 19th Earl descended in a right line from Allan, Thane of 
 Sutherland, whom Macbeth, in the rage of his usurping 
 tyranny, about the year of Christ 1057 made away with for 
 endeavouring to restore the Kingdom to Malcolm IIL law- 
 ful heir to the Crown. His mournful widow Jean Wemyss, 
 eldest daughter to David Earl of Wemyss, erected this mo- 
 nument of everlasting fame. 
 
 To the defunct Earl she brought forth John, now Earl of 
 Sutherland, and Anne, Viscountess of Arbuthnot. And to her 
 former husband, Archibald, Earl of Angus, eldest son to the 
 Marquis of Douglas, she brought forth Archibald, Earl of 
 Eorfar, and Margaret, given in marriage to the Viscount of 
 Kingstoun. Five other children of the said Lady Dowager 
 died in their nonage. The Earl himself was born in his own 
 
51 
 
 Castle of Dornoch, 2d November 1633, and died at Edin- 
 burgh, 4th March 1703. 
 
 Here are also deposited the remains of William, 21st 
 Earl of Sutherland, and his amiable Countess Mary^ daughter 
 of William Maxwell, Esq. of Preston, Kirkcudbright. His 
 Lordship died at Bath, June 16th 1766, just after he had 
 completed his 31st year; and the Countess, June 1st 1766, 
 in her 26th year, 16 days before the Earl fell a victim to his 
 disorder. 
 
 " They were lovely and pleasant in their lives, 
 And in their deaths they were not divided.*" 
 
 The bodies of this illustrious and affectionate pair were 
 brought to Scotland, and interred in one grave in Holyrood 
 Abbey, 9th August 1766. 
 
 Beauty and birth a transient being have ; 
 Virtue alone can triumph o'er the grave." 
 
 Between this and the east wall, is the Countess of Eglin- 
 toune's monument, originally a most beautiful structure, 
 though now miserably dilapidated. The following inscrip- 
 tion, though nearly obliterated, is placed within an arched 
 recess : 
 
 B. I. H. 
 
 Here lyes ane Nobil and maist 
 vertuous Ladie, Deame Jeane 
 Hamilton, Countas of Egling- 
 toun, Dochter to James Duke 
 of Schattillarot, sometyme 
 Governor of this Realme. 
 She deceast in December 
 MDXCVI. 
 
52 
 
 Two yards south from this monument, is placed a plain 
 slab with the following inscription : 
 
 Elizabeth Clavering, 
 
 Aged 10. 
 Died 29th June 1799. 
 
 On the east end of the Abbey, over some fine carved 
 Gothic niches, is placed a small neat marble cippus, and 
 four stones placed in the ground, with the letters HEH, to 
 the memory of Henrietta Drummond, daughter of George 
 Hay Drummond, Esq. son of the Archbishop of York^ with 
 a very elegant classical epitaph, as follows : 
 
 " Sacred 
 To the Memory of 
 Henrietta Elizabeth Hay, 
 Daughter of 
 The Reverend George Hay Drummond, 
 Son of Robert Archbishop of York, 
 Who departed this life 
 Nov. 28, 1802, 
 In the Sixteenth year of her age. 
 
 " Too pure and perfect still to linger here, 
 Cheer'd with seraphic visions of the blest, 
 
 Smiling, she dried a tender father's tear. 
 And poured her spirit forth upon his breast. 
 
 " He bends not o'er the mansion of the dead. 
 Where loveliness and grace in ruins lie ; 
 
 In sure and certain hope, he lifts his head. 
 And faith presents her in her native sky.'' 
 
 A few yards towards the centre of the church, a plain 
 slab is erected to the memory of Mary Dunbar, widow of 
 
53 
 
 Lord Basil Hamilton, brother to the Earl of Selkirk, in- 
 scribed as under 
 
 Mary Dunbaii, 
 Widow of 
 Lord Basil Hamilton. 
 Died May 1760, 
 Aged 86 years. 
 
 The fate of this illustrious nobleman, (Lord Basil Ha- 
 milton) was truly lamentable. In the autumn of 1701, he 
 fell an untimely victim to his humanity. His servant, en- 
 deavouring to ford the Minnoch, a mountain torrent in 
 Galloway, then much swelled by a sudden rain, when in 
 the emphatic language of the country it was " Jawing a 
 brown speat^'' the servant was dismounted ; Lord Basil 
 rushed in and seized him ; but the awful force of the tor- 
 rent swept both man and horse to a watery grave, in sight 
 of his lamenting brother, the amiable Earl of Selkirk, and 
 several unavailing spectators.* 
 
 Between this and the royal vaults, a neat monumental 
 stone, with fluted pilasters and carved roses, is erected to the 
 memory of Thomas Lowes, Esq. of Ridley Hall in North- 
 umberland. A remarkable example of the instability of all 
 human greatness, as we learn from the tenor of this inscrip- 
 tion : — 
 
 Here lies the body of 
 
 Thomas Lowes, Esq, 
 
 Late of Ridley Hall, 
 In the county of Northumberland ; 
 
 One instance among thousands. 
 Of the uncertainty of human life, 
 
 • Garstair's State Papers. Scots Magazine for 1740. 
 
54 
 
 And the instability of earthly possessions 
 And enjoyments. 
 Born to ample property, 
 He for several years experienced 
 A distressing reverse of fortune ; 
 And no sooner was he restored to 
 
 His former affluence, 
 Than it pleased divine providence 
 To withdraw this together with his life. 
 READER, 
 Be thou taught by this, 
 To seek those riches which never can fail ; 
 And those pleasures 
 Which are at God^s right hand 
 For evermore ; 
 The gracious gift of God, 
 And to be enjoyed through faith 
 In Jesus Cheist, our Saviour. 
 An only Daughter, over whom the deceased 
 Had long watched with the tenderest care, 
 And many friends, who admired 
 His liberal and generous mind, unite 
 In deploring his loss. 
 He departed this Life 
 On the 18th day of September, 
 In the year of our Lord 1812, and 
 In the 61st year of his Age. 
 
 In the south-east corner is situated 
 
 Strongly secured with a grated iron door. It is destitute of 
 ornament ; and in external appearance is not calculated to 
 excite the idea of royal magnificence. 
 
55 
 
 Here are deposited the remains ot 
 
 1. David IT. King of Scotland, who had meditated, along 
 with the rest of the christian princes, an expedition to 
 the Holy-land, " Ad dominandum paganorum ferocitatem," 
 but died without accomplishing his purpose, in the Castle of 
 Edinburgh, on 7th May 1370, in the 47th year of his age, 
 and 39th of his reign, and was buried near to the high 
 altar, in the monastery of the Holy-rood. 
 
 Joannis Fordun has left a most elaborate epitaph to his 
 memory, which would appear to have been inscribed upon 
 his sepulchre, beginning as follows :— 
 
 ** Hie Rex sub lapide David inclilus est tumulatus, 
 
 ^* Here lies the renowned King David under this stone.''* 
 
 2. King James II. of Scotland, who was killed by the 
 bursting of a cannon at the siege of Roxburgh, August 3, 
 1460, in the 30th year of his age, and 23d of his reign. 
 
 3. Prince Arthur, third son of James IV. (who was slain 
 at the battle of Floddenfield) ; he died in the Castle of Edin- 
 burgh, 15th July 1510, aged nine months. 
 
 4. James V. of Scotland ; he died at his palace of Falkland 
 14th December 1542, in the 31st year of his age, and 30th 
 of his reign. 
 
 5. -f* Magdalen, Queen of James V. and daughter of Francis 
 
 • Vide Scotochronicon, v. 11. p. 380. Ruddiman's Notes. Hearnes' MS. 
 Buchan. Hist. Rerum Scoticorum, lib. ix. Barbour's Hist. Met.^ 
 
 t The King and Queen being arrived at Leith, upon the 29th of May, in 
 the year 1537, it is reported, that after the Queen (Magdalen) put her foot 
 upon the shore, upon her Icnees she kissed the ground, praying for all happy- 
 nesse to the countrey and people. Never a Queen in soe short a tyme vi^as 
 soe beloved of her husband, nor sooner made conqueists of the hearts of her 
 subjects ; but she lived not many weeks eftir her arryveall in Scotland, when, 
 
 of a fever she contracted in June, she departed this life in July thereafter." 
 
 (Hist, of Scot.) *• She was burryedj (says Drummond,) with the grettcst 
 
56 
 
 I. King of France; she died 10th July 1537, in the 17th 
 year of her age, universally lamented.* 
 
 mourning Scotland ever till that tyme was participand of, in the church of 
 Holyrude-house, near to Khig James the Second." — Memorie of the Sommer- 
 iralliz, vol. 1. p. S90, 1. Piscottie's Hist. p. 159. 
 
 * The best and most authentic account of the Regalia Sepultura is to be 
 found in a MS note of a search made for that purpose, preserved in the Ad- 
 vocate's Library, Edinburgh, and is as follows, v'itC. Upon ye xxiv of 
 January MDCLXXXIII. by procurement of ye Bischop of Dumblayne, I 
 went into ane vault in ye south-east corner of ye Abbey church of Halyrude-. 
 house, and yr. were present, ye Lord Strathnaver and E. Forfare, Mr Robert 
 Scott, minister of ye Abbey, the Bishop of Dumblayn, and some uthers. Wee 
 viewed ye body of King James ye Fyft of Scotland. It lyeth withine ane wod- 
 den coffin, and is coveret wyih ane lead coffin. There seemed to be haireupon 
 ye head still. The body was two lengths of my staf, with two inches more, 
 that is twae inches and mare above twae Scots elnes ; for I measured the staf 
 with ane elnwand efterward. 
 
 *' The body was coloured black with ye balsom that preserved it, which was 
 lyke melted pitch. The Earl of Forfare tooke the measure with his staf 
 lykewayes. There was plates of lead, in several long pieces, louse upon and 
 about the coffin, which carried the following inscription, as I took it from be- 
 fore the bishop and noblemen in ye isle of ye church : — 
 
 »♦ ILLVSTRIS SCOTORVM, REX JACOBVS EJVS NOMINIS V. ETATIS 
 
 SU^ ANNO XXXI : REGNI VERO XXX : MORTEM OBIIT IN 
 PALACIO DE FALKLAND 14 DECEMBRIS. ANNO D— NI MDXLH. 
 CVJVS CORPVS KIC TRADITVM EST SEPVLTVRE. 
 
 ** Next ye south wall, in a smaller arch, lay a shorter coffin with ye teeth 
 in ye skull. 
 
 " To the little coffin in the narrow arch, seemeth to belong this inscription 
 made out of long pieces of lead in the Saxon character: 
 
 ^nmQ^^nnta 3iiegtna ^cottar, i"pou^a Jaco&t ^. 
 
 Mt^i^, A. D. MDXXXVII. OBIIT. 
 
 There was ane piece of a lead crown, upon the syde of whilk I saw two 
 floor de leuces gilded ; and upon ye north syde of ye coffin lay two children, 
 none of the coffins a full elne long, and one of them lying within ane wod 
 chest, the other only the lead coffin. 
 
 " Upon the south syde, next the Kyng's body, lay an grete coffin of lead, 
 with the body in it. The muscles of the thigh seemed to be entire ; the body 
 
57 
 
 6. Arthur Duke of Albany, second son of James V. died 
 at Stirling, and was interred beside his illustrious parent in 
 the Abbey of Holy rood, aged eight days. * 
 
 7. Henry Lord Darnley, murdered 10th February 1567, 
 in the Slst year of his age. 
 
 8. Jane Countess of Archibald, fifth Earl of Argyle, natu- 
 ral daughter of James V. by Elizabeth, daughter of John 
 Lord Carmichael. She was at supper with her sister. Queen 
 Mary, when the blood of Rizzio was shed at her feet, 9th 
 March 1566. She stood sponsor for Queen Elizabeth, at 
 the baptism of James VI, for which she was afterwards con- 
 demned by the Presbyterian clergy, to do public penance in 
 the church of St Giles at Edinburgh, "f" Dying without 
 issue, she was inclosed in one of the richest coffins ever seen 
 in Scotland, the compartments and inscriptions being all of 
 solid gold, and was interred beside her royal relatives. 
 
 In this vault are also deposited the remains of the 
 Duchess de Gramont, one of the blood royal, at least one of 
 the nobles of that unfortunate dynasty of the family of the 
 Bourbons, who remained for a considerable time in exile in 
 this country, many of whom had apartments assigned them 
 by the British Government, in the Palace of Holyroodhouse. 
 
 not so long as King James the Fyfth, and ye balsam stagnating in sum quan- 
 tity at the foote of the coffin ; there appeared no inscription upon ye coffin. 
 
 *' And at ye east syde of the vaults which was at ye feet of ye other coffins, 
 ay a coffin, with the skull sawen in two, and ane inscription in small letters, 
 gilded upon a square of ye lead coffin, making it to be ye boyde of Dame Jane 
 Stewart y Couniease of Argyle^ MDLXXXV, or thereby, for I do not well re- 
 member ye yeare. The largest coffin, I suld suppose to be that of Lord Darn- 
 ley's, and the short coffin, Queen Magdalen's.'*— MS. in Bib. Ad. VV. III. 
 
 • Pink's Hist. II. 371. 
 
 t Dalyell's Scot. Poems, v. 1. p. 26—27. 
 
 H 
 
58 
 
 Inscription on a brass plate on the lid of the coffin :— 
 
 Louise Francoise Gabrielle Aglae 
 de Polignac, 
 Duchess de Grammont. 
 Nea Paris le 7 Mai 
 
 1768; 
 Morte le 30 Mars 
 1803. 
 
 Next to the Royal Vault is the burial place of the family 
 of Roxburgh, in which is interred, 
 
 Jane Countess of Roxburgh, daughter of Patrick, third 
 Lord Drummond. She was a lady of the finest accomplish- 
 ments, and was on that account preferred with universal 
 approbation to the important office of Governess to the 
 children of James VI. which she executed with applause 
 and satisfaction. She died October 7, 1643, and was in- 
 terred in this vault. Her funeral was appointed for the 
 rendezvous of the Royalists, who projected that opportuni* 
 ty of 'assembling to massacre the chief Covenanters ; but 
 found their number too inconsiderable for the attempt. ♦ 
 
 On the front of the third pillar from the east end is placed 
 a small plain tablet, to the memory of Adam Bothwell, 
 Bishop of Orkney and Shetland. His arms are cut within 
 a circular tressure, beneath which is the following classical 
 inscription J—* 
 
 ADAMUS BOTHUELItJS. 
 
 Hie reconditus jacet Nobilissimus vir 
 DoMlNus Adamus Bothuelius, Episcopus 
 
 vide Laing*s Hist. iii. p. 244. Gent. Mag. Feb, 1790. 
 
59 
 
 Orcadum et Zethlandiae : Commendatarius Monasterii 
 
 Sanctdd Crucis ; Senator et Consiliarius 
 
 Regius : Qui obiit anno aetatis suae 67, 
 
 23 die mensis Augusti, Anno Domini, 1593. 
 
 EPITAPHIUM. 
 
 Nate Senatoris magni ; magne ipse Senator ; 
 Magni Senatoris, triplice laude, parens ; 
 Tempore cujus opem poscens ecclesia sensit ; 
 Amplexa est cujus cura forensis opem ; 
 Vixisti ex animi voto : Jam plenus honorum ; 
 Plenus opum, senii jam quoque ; plenus, obis 
 Sic nihil urna tui, nisi membra senilia celat ; 
 Teque vetat virtus, vir tua magne mori. 
 J. faelix Mortem requie superato suprema, 
 Sic Patriae et liberi|S, fama perepnis erit, 
 iEternum vive, atqvie vate. 
 
 M. H. H,. 
 
 Here lies interred a most noble man. Lord Adam Both- 
 well, Bishop of Orkney and Zetland ; Commendator of 
 the Monastery of the Holy Cross, Senator of the College of 
 Justice, and one of the Lords of his Majesty's Privy Coun- 
 cil ; who died in the 67th year of his age, 23d day of the 
 month of August, in the year of oyr Lord 1593. 
 
 EPITAPH. 
 
 Thy praise is triple sure ; thyself, thy Sire, 
 Thy Son, all Senators, whom men admire. 
 The staggVing state by thee was quickly stayM. 
 The troubled church from thee got present aid. 
 Thou livedst at thy wish ; thy good old age 
 In wealth and honours, took thee off the stage. 
 Thine aged corpse interred here now lie, 
 Thy virtues great, forbid your name to die* 
 
60 
 
 Go happy soul I and in thy last repose, 
 Vanquish thou death, and all its fatal blows : 
 Thy fragrant fame shall thus eternal be, 
 Unto thy country and posterity. 
 
 In the tentre of the southern aisle, is erected a plain altar 
 tomb, to perpetuate the virtues of the illustrious Isabella 
 Countess-Dowager of Errol, with this filial inscription :r— 
 
 In Memory 
 of 
 
 Isabella, 
 Countess-Dowager of Errol, 
 Daughter 
 Of Sir Will. Carr of Etall, Bart. 
 And widow of James 14th Earl of Errol, 
 Whose life was passed 
 In the discharge of all the duties 
 Which Religion prescribes ; 
 And closed 
 In all the hopes which it inspires ! 
 This stone is inscribed 
 By her grateful and affectionate Daughter, 
 Augusta Carr, Countess of Glasgow. 
 She was born March 31, 1742, 
 And died Nov. 3, 1808. 
 
 Next the Countess of ErroPs Monument. 
 
 Ann Mercer, 
 Wife of 
 Kichard Mercer, Esq. 
 Of the Kingdom of Ireland, 
 Who died on the 28th of November, 
 
61 
 
 Was interred here 
 On the 4th of December 
 1802. 
 
 On the south wall, opposite to the middle distance between 
 the third and fourth pillars from the east end, is Hay of 
 Easter Kennet's monument, thus inscribed :— 
 
 Hie jacet Alexander Hay, de Easter Kennet, Clericus 
 Registri; qui obiit 19 Septembris, A. D* 1594. 
 
 West a little from the above, under a plain slab, lies— 
 
 The Honourable Mary Murray, 
 Daughter of 
 Lord Edward Murray, 
 Died 
 
 On the 19th December 1804, 
 Aged 70 years. 
 
 In the south aisle of the Church, between the fourth and 
 fifth pillars from the west, and immediately below the fifth 
 window from the east, in the south wall, is a very neat 
 carved stone over the remains of Bailie Hunter and his lady. 
 He is supposed to have been of the family of Polmood in 
 Peeblesshire ; and the arms of that family are sculptured on 
 J;he stone, around which is this inscription : 
 
 Heir lyes 
 Thomas Hunter, 
 Baillie in Edinburgh, 
 and 
 
 Kathrine Norman, 
 His Spouse, 
 MDGIX. 
 
62 
 
 The south aisle of the Abbey church is paved with grave- 
 stones, in a manner similar to the north aisle. Many of 
 them are highly interesting and beautiful, being covered with 
 sculptures of Saxon characters and armorial bearings, and , 
 certainly worthy of preservation. 
 
 In this church were also deposited the remains of the fol- 
 lowing illustrious personages ; but whose monuments have 
 either been destroyed, or who have never had any erected to 
 their memory. 
 
 Fergus, Lord or Prince of Galloway, the father of an 
 illustrious house, and who long withstood the power of the 
 Scottish monarchy. He was the leader of his countrymen 
 in the battle of the Standard, J. D. 1138. He married a 
 natural daughter of Henry I. of England ; but having op- 
 posed Malcolm IV. in his nonage, was forced to seek an 
 asylum within the walls of Holy rood, where he died, and 
 was interred with all the pomp of monastic solemnity, A. D, 
 1161.* 
 
 John, Bishop of Candida Casa, or Whitehorn in Gal- 
 loway, was contemporary with Allan, the Constable of 
 Scotland, J. D. llSO.f He is styled by Fordun : 
 
 Johannes Galveiae insula sublimatus est."*" He became a 
 monk in the Abbey of Holy rood, A, D. 1206, and died A. D. 
 1209 + 
 
 David Fleming, Lord Biggar and Cumbernauld, having 
 attended Prince James of Scotland to the Bass, in February 
 1405. After seeing him safe on board the vessel that was 
 to convey him to France, he was on his return home at- 
 tacked and killed at Longherdmanstone, a few miles west 
 from Edinburgh, by James Douglas of Balveny, afterwards 
 seventh Earl of Douglas, and was interred in this Abbey 
 Church, where was a splendid monument to his memory, 
 destroyed by the infuriated soldiery, in the Cromwell usur- 
 
 • Vide Yorke's Union of Honour, p. 9. Chart. Sanct. Cruc. 
 f Chart, of Kelso. 
 
 t Chron. Maelros. Monast. Angle Scotochron. Jib. ix. Keith's Catalogue, 
 
6S 
 
 patioti. ttis virtues, and place of sculpture are thus nar- 
 rated by the metrical Prior of Lochleven. 
 
 " Sence Davy Fleming of Cumbernald, 
 " Lord, a Knycht baith stout and bald, 
 *« Trowit and livit wel with the Kyng, 
 " This like gude and gentil Knycthe, 
 
 That was baith manfu' leid and wychte 
 " Mes cruely mangled in hys blude, 
 " And now is laid in Halyrude." * 
 
 He granted an annual rent of 25 merks sterling out of his 
 lands at Biggar, to the monks of this Abbey, " pro saluti 
 animi sempiterni.'' — Chart. Sanct. Crucis. 
 
 John, Bishop elect of Galloway, became an inmate in 
 this house, A. D. 1440, and was interred within its cloisters 
 in 1448. f 
 
 Archibald Crawford, Abbot of Holyrood, and treasurer 
 to James III. He spent the greatest part of his princely 
 income in beautifying this stately church, though neither 
 tomb nor inscription remain to testify to the world that such 
 virtue did exist. J 
 
 (reorge Douglas, natural son of Archibald Earl of Angus, 
 was consecrated Bishop of Moray, J, D. 1573, and after re- 
 maining 16 years in that see, he died, and was interred in 
 the cloisters of Holyrood. 
 
 Andrew Fairfowl, son of John Fairfowl of the town of 
 Anstruther, was first chaplain to the Earl of Rothes, then 
 Minister at North Leith, and afterwards at Dunse in Ber- 
 wickshire. It is reported, that King Charles II. having 
 heard him preach several times, when he was in Scotland 
 in 1650, was pleased, upon his restoration, to enquire after 
 Mr Fairfowl, and accordingly preferred him to the see of 
 Glasgow, 14th November 1661, where he was specially 
 consecrated the ensuing year. These ecclesiastical honours 
 
 • Wyntons's Cronykill, II. 412. 
 •f- Spot. Bat. of Bishops Monast. Ang. 
 King^s MSS. and Keith's Catalogue. 
 
64 
 
 he did not long enjoy, having sickened the very day of rid- 
 ing the Parliament, in November 1G63, and died a few days 
 after. He was interred on the 11th of the same month in 
 the Abbey church of Holyroodhouse, universally regretted 
 of all who had the pleasure of his acquaintance. * 
 
 The Honourable Francis Hay, second son of Francis 
 8th Earl of Errol, by Lady Elizabeth Douglas, youngest 
 daughter of William Earl of Morton. He died March 14, 
 1632, aged 34-, and lies buried in the nave of the Monas- 
 tery of Holyroodhouse. -|* Also, 
 
 The Honourable Lady Francis Hay, daughter of James 
 14th Earl of Errol, died at Edinburgh, 29th August 1806, 
 in the 34th year of her age, and is here interred. 
 
 Judge Smith, one of the English Commissioners during 
 the Protectorate of the Duke of Somerset, died at Ender- 
 ness (Inverness) October 6. His corpse was brought to 
 Edinburgh, and interred in the Abbey Church, 12th Octo- 
 ber 1657, by torch light. + 
 
 " James Sommerville of Drum," a Lieutenant-Colonel in 
 the French and Venetian service, twentieth in descent from 
 Schir Gualtier de Sommervil, " and tenth Lord of that Ilk, 
 died at Edinburgh, January 3, 1677, in the 82d year of 
 his age, and was interred by his ladye's syde, in the Abbey 
 Church of Hollyrudhouse, maist of the nobilitie and gentrie 
 in towne being, with two hundred torches, present at the 
 interrement." |1 
 
 John Paterson, Bishop of Galloway, who was translated 
 to the diocese of Edinburgh, A. D. 1680, in which he con- 
 tinued till the year 1687, when he was promoted to the 
 archiepiscopal see of Glasgow, of which he was deprived at 
 the. Revolution, A. D. 1688. The king granted, 19th March 
 1685-6, to this bishop and his successors of Edinburgh, the 
 office of Chancellor of the University of that City. He died at 
 
 • Spotiswood*9 Hist. Keith's Cat. and Gibson's Hist, of Glasgow. 
 •{• Balf. Annals, 58. 
 + Lamont's Diary. 
 
 II Mcmoire of the Sommervills, ii. 475. Public Arch. D. 
 
65 
 
 Edinburgh, on Wednesday, Deceniber 8, 1708, in the 76th 
 year of his age, and was interred near the oriel window in 
 the Abbey Church of Holyrood * 
 
 The Honourable Lord Robert Kerr, a plain grave stone. 
 
 Lady Mary Kerr, daughter of Robert, first Marquis of 
 Lothian, and Marchioness of Douglas, and mother of Ar- 
 chibald first Duke of Douglas. She died at Edinburgh, 
 January 22, 1736, in the 58th year of her age. 
 
 Also in the same recess are deposited the remains of Lady 
 Jane Douglas, daughter of the above. She was born at 
 Douglas Castle, 17th March, 1698, and died at Edinburgh, 
 Nov. 22, 17.53, in the 56th year of her age. She was mar- 
 ried in 1746 to Sir John Stewart of GrandtuUy, to whom 
 she bore Sholto Thomas Stewart, who died at Edinburgh 
 14th May 1753, in the 5th year of his age, and reposes by 
 the side of his illustrious parent. 
 
 Sir William Hamilton of Whitelaw, one of the Senators 
 of the College of Justice, and Lord Justice-Clerk, was in- 
 terred in this Abbey Church, A. D. 1750. — Also, 
 
 William Hamilton of Bangour, Esq. who died at Lyons, 
 25th March I754.t— And, 
 
 Lady Susan Hamilton, third daughter of John Earl of 
 Ruglen, Countess of Cassillis, who died at Barnton, Feb. 8, 
 1763, in the 64th year of her age. 
 
 Honourable John Lord l-)rummond ; who, on the death of 
 his nephew in 1747, assumed the title of the Duke of Pertlu 
 He died at Edinburgh, 7th October 1756, and was interred 
 in this Abbey Church. 
 
 Henry David, tenth Earl of Buchan, died at Walcot, near 
 Bath, Dec. 1, 1765, in the 58th year of his age, and was 
 buried 21st December in this Abbey Church. Also his 
 Lady, Agnes, daughter of Sir James Stewart of Goodtrees ; 
 and their eldest son David Lord Cardross, who died at Edin- 
 burgh, 4th October 1747, in the 7th year of his age. 
 
 • Keith's Cat. Art. See of Edinburgh, 
 t Campbeirs Hist. Poet. Scotl. v. I. p. 195. 
 I 
 
66 
 
 On a neat marble Monument erected this year, abotit 28 
 feet eastward from the north door of the Cliurch, is the 
 following inscription : 
 
 In the Middle of this Chapel 
 Lie the Remains of Euphemia, 
 Widow of William Stewart, Esq. of Castle Stewart, in 
 the shire of Wigton, 
 Sixth daughter of Kenneth Lord Fortrose, 
 
 Son of AViLLiAM fifth Earl of Seaforth ; 
 She died suddenly on the 14th February 1817, 
 in the 67th year of her age. 
 
 " A soul prepared needs no delays. 
 The summons come, the Saint obeys. 
 Swift was her flight, and short the road ; 
 She closed her eyes, and saw her God" 
 
 WILLIAM, eldest son of the deceased, an officer in the 
 Royal Engineers, 
 Died in 1796, in the Island of St Domingo, 
 in the 24th year of his age. 
 JOHN,the second son, Capt. of His Majesty's Ship Sea-Horse, 
 Died in 1811, in the 36th year of his age, and was buried 
 in Westminster Abbey ; 
 KENNETHv the youngest Son, 
 An officer in the Royal Artillery, died in 1798, in the 
 Island of St Vincent, 
 in the 19th year of hi» age. 
 
 A plain slab is also placed over the grave in the middle 
 aisle^ inscribed thus 
 
 UNDERNEATH 
 are Interred the Remains of 
 
 EVPHEMIA, 
 
 Widow of William Stewart, Esq. of Castle Stewart, 
 Who Died on the 14th February 1617, 
 in the 67th year of her Age. 
 
67 
 
 LIST of the Principal Nobility and Gentry entombed in 
 Holyrood Abbey, but who have no Monuments, 
 
 John Lord Ballonden, - - 2d Nov. 1706- 
 
 John Lord Lindores, - - 17th Jan. — 06. 
 
 James Carnegie, Earl of Finhaven, 24th March —07, 
 
 Lady Helen Anstruther of that ilk, 22d April —08. 
 
 Hon. Thomas Hay, son to the Earl of Errol, 4th Jan. — 09. 
 
 Earl of Dunmore, - - 12th May —10. 
 
 Lord Anstruther, - - 3d Feb. — 1 1. 
 
 Elizabeth Countess of Crawford, - 26th Feb. —11. 
 
 Anne York, Lady Newark, - 2Sth Feb. —13. 
 
 Damelsobel M^Kenzie, Countess of Seaforth, 18th July — 15. 
 
 Right Hon. Lord Kinnaird, - 3d April —15. 
 
 David Wemyss, Lord Elcho, - 11th Dec. —15. 
 
 James Douglas, Earl Moretoun, - 14th Dec. — 15* 
 
 Lord Semple, - - ^ 4th August —1 9. 
 
 Sir Alex. Grant of that ilk, - 22d August —19. 
 
 The Right Hon. Sir Arch. Sinclair, ad- 
 vocate, Sheriff of Edinburgh, 24th August - — 19, 
 
 Lady Margaret Bailie, - - 24th June —20. 
 
 Lady Jane Muir, Countess of Glasgow, 14th Sept. — 24* 
 
 Dame Elizabeth Lady Cardross, - 1st Feb. — 25. 
 
 Lady Mary M'Kenzie, - - 2d Feb. — 26. 
 
 Lady Mary Drummond Countess ofMarischal, 14th Mar. — 29. 
 
 William Lord Forbes, - - 28th June —30. 
 
 Robert Douglas, Earl of Morton, 14th Dec. — 30, 
 
 Henry Maule, Earl of Panmure, 25th June — ^34, 
 
 Lady Jane Hutchison, Countess of Ruglen, 16th Mar. — 34, 
 
 James Lyon Bowes, Earl of Strathmore, 18th Jan. —35. 
 
 David Crawford, Esq. principal clerk of 
 
 notaries in North Britain, 28th Feb. — 36, 
 
 Lady Henrietta Livingstone, - 26th May . — ^39. 
 
 Lady Charlotte Cochrane, daughter to th«3 
 
 Earl of Dundonald, - - 10th Feb. —40. 
 
 Lady Jane Maitland, - - 14th Feb. — 47. 
 
 Lady Jane Mercer of Aldie, .. 17th Dec. — 49. 
 
 J. McDonald, Esq. of Glengarie, . 3d Sept. —54, 
 
 David Hay, Esq. of Leys, - 30th March —60. 
 
 Lady Margaret, Hamilton of Boldoun, 22d May —60. 
 
 2 
 
68 
 
 Hon. Miss Anne Bothwell, daughter to Hen- 
 ry Earl of Bothwell, - . 1 st Nov. 1 762. 
 Right Hon. Countess of Cassillis, . 14th Feb. —63. 
 Lady Jane Maitland, . - 6th April —66- 
 Lady Catharine Wood, ... 9th Oct. — 76« 
 James Erskine, Esq. of Mar, Knt. Mari- 
 
 schal of Scotland, - - 3d March — 85. 
 
 Lady Margaret Murray, daughter to Lord 
 
 Viscount Stormont, and sister to the 
 
 present Earl of Mansfield, - 31st April — 85. 
 
 David Stewart Moncrief, Esq. of Moredun, 
 
 oneof the Hon. the Barons of Exchequer, 1 7th April — 90. 
 Lady Jane Sinclair of Barrock, - 5th Dec. —91. 
 
 Sir Alexander Hay of Park, . 4th Feb. — 92. 
 
 Right Hon. Lady Frances Leslie, - 6th Oct. — 92. 
 Right Hon. Countess of Cassillis, - 1st Jan. — 94. 
 Sir William Gordon of Gourdounstone, 5th March — 95. 
 Lady Frances Montgomery, - 26th Jan. — 99. 
 
 Charles Hamilton, Esq. - 12th April 1800. 
 
 Hon. Mrs Anstruther of Anstruther, 3d May 1814. 
 
 John Craw, Esq. W. S. Bailie of Holy- 
 
 roodhouse ; a man highly esteemed, 
 
 and who discharged the office of bailie 
 
 for a number of years with distin- 
 guished approbation. Died 23d, and 
 
 was interred within the chapel royal, 30th March 1816. 
 The Bight Hon. Lord Webb Seymour, son 
 
 of Webb late Duke of Somerset. He 
 
 resided at Edinburgh for several years, 
 
 whereihe was much esteemed in the first 
 
 literary circles. Died there on the 1 9th, 
 
 and was buried in the north-east corner 
 
 of the Chapel Royal, (His brother, 
 
 puke of Somerset, chief mourner.) 24th April 1819. 
 Leyeson Douglas Stewart, Esq. R. N. 5th May 1819. 
 
 On the site of the north wall of the choir stands a small 
 neat monument to the memory of Alexander Milne, King^ 
 architect for Scotland, with the following inscription 
 
69 
 
 A. (Motto.) Tarn arte, quam marte. M. 
 
 In clarlssimum virum, Alexandrum Milnum, Laplcidam, 
 
 " Egregium, hie sepultum, Anno Dom. 1643, Febr. 20. 
 " Siste Hospes ; Clarus jacet hoc sub Marmore Milnus ; 
 
 Dignus, cui Pliarius conderet ossa labor : 
 " Quod vel in sere Myron fudit, vel pinxit Appelles, 
 " Artifici hoc potuit hie lapieida Manu. 
 
 Sex lustris tantum vixit, sine labe, senectiam. 
 " Prodidit, et medium clauserat ille diem. 
 
 Translated. 
 Here is buried a worthy man and an 
 Ingenious Mason, Alexander Milne, 20th Feb. A. D. 1643. 
 " Stay Passenger, here famous Milne doth rest, 
 ^* Worthy to be in ^Egypt's Marble drest ; 
 What Myron or Appelles could have done 
 In brasse or paintry, hee could that in Stone ; 
 But thretty yeares hee (Blameless) lived ; old age 
 *^ He did betray, and in''s prime left this stage.* 
 " Restored by Robert Mylne, 
 Architect, MDCCLXXVI." 
 
 On a small plain tablet, fixed in the outside of the eastern 
 wall of the church is the following inscription : 
 
 « To the Memorie of ANNA FOVLER, 
 Two verteous hands, one truth-expressing tongue, 
 A furnisht heart, with Piety, Faith, and Loue, 
 " A fruitfuU wombe, whence hopefull mealls are sprung ; 
 *f Two Lust-frie eys, thoughts tending farre aboue 
 
 • The last six lines, although a translation of the preceding Latin epitaph, 
 are cut upon the stone. 
 
 N. B. In the Grayfriar's church-yard of Edinburgh is a splendid monument 
 to the memory of John Milnc^ father of him who built the Palace, with a la- 
 f>oured epitaph, in which is this remarkable notice, that he was Sixth royal 
 matter mason to seven successive Kings of Scotland, as appears by the following 
 lines on a tablet near the ground. — 
 
 «* Reader, John Milne, who maketh the fourth John, 
 ** And by descent from father unto son, 
 •* Sixth master mason to a royal race 
 
 Of seven successive kings, sleeps in this place." 
 
70 
 
 '* The reach of nature, motionless become, 
 Hests peaceabl into this earthly tombe. 
 
 " Obiit 9 Maii 1645, Aetatis suae 48. 
 
 Immediately under this is a double tablet,* in the one 
 compartment of which is inscribed, 
 
 D. O. M- 
 
 " Gulielmo Gramo de Hilton, Et Margaretae Stvartae, 
 " Consorti suae, suisquie terrena animae, indvmenta cum 
 " fata vocaverint, hie deponi concessum fuit, VI. Calend. 
 " Sep. MDCXLVI. Hoc in ccemeterio conditur hactenus 
 " progenies tota, Alexander, Margarita, Maria una, atquae 
 altera liberi quidem, non posteri sed parentum suorum, ut 
 in morte, ita in vita et haereditate ilia, aeterna anteces- 
 sores. O quam fluxa res humana, spes lubrica et morta- 
 litates S3&pe prsepostera ! O vitae fugacis curriculum breve, 
 " in quo viator hsec legens sistis nee sistis !" 
 
 Englished. 
 
 Upon the 26th of August 1646, it was granted by per^ 
 mission to Captain William Graham of Hiltoun, and Mar- 
 garet Stewart, his spouse, as a place of sepulture for them 
 and their children, in which they may lay down the earthly 
 clothing of their souls, when God shall call them by death. 
 Here already are buried their whole offspring, Alexander, 
 Margaret, and Mary, and their other children. Not post^ 
 humous, but forerunners to their parents in death ; as also 
 to an everlasting inheritance — to eternal life. O how un- 
 certain are all human affairs ! the hope of them perishing, 
 and mortality often preposterous. 
 
 O short race of flying life, whereon thou, 
 Passenger, reading this, halts, yet stands not." 
 
 • This tablet was formerly placed in a wall, now removed, which divided 
 the burial ground from the square plot of ground inclosed on the east side of 
 the Palace. 
 
71 
 
 And in the other compartment is the following quaint 
 Inscription : 
 " Mind, Passenger, thy going hence, 
 From Captain Graham, his providence ; 
 Nor envy thov this litle stone ; 
 Heir is no provd Mavsoleon : 
 But rather emulat his hop^^s. 
 In which he far far overtop''s 
 Nilus vast Pyramides : Lo heir 
 A wardrobe for his soules attire 
 He doth provide. He trusts at last 
 This coat incarnat not to cast. 
 But lay it off : The world may burn 
 Yet shall his ashes, from his urne 
 Muster his out-side, and present 
 Clirist'*s all monarchiq parlament/' 
 William Guaham. 
 
 ANAGRAM. 
 Ah me ! I gravel am and dust. 
 And to the grave descend I must, 
 O painted piece of living clay ! 
 Man, be not proud of thy short day. 
 
 In the Church-yard of Holyrood there were formerly a 
 few plain grave stones, which have been removed within 
 these few years. Some of them are still lying within the 
 Church. — And the following inscriptions taken from them 
 are preserved by Maitland : — viz. 
 
 NicoLAUs Paterson. 
 
 Hie habentur reliquiae Nicolai Patersoni, 
 Nobilissimo Joanni, inclyto Rothusiae Comiti. 
 Clarissimo Scotorum proregi, 
 a Secretioribus Ministris. 
 Obiit postridie Iduum Decemb. MDCLXV. 
 
72 
 
 Translated thus : 
 Here are deposited the remains of Nicol Paterson, secre- 
 tary to the most noble and excellent John Earl of Kothes, 
 illustrious Viceroy of Scotland. He died the 14th of Decem- 
 ber 1665. 
 
 " To groan, sigh, sob, weep, and bemoan, for him that's 
 
 gone is great Folly : 
 To rest is best in Confidence, he'*s gone to Glory." 
 
 " You see that neither youth, nor strength, nor beauty 
 Can privilege one man from nature's duty. 
 Howe'er, let none pass by without resent, 
 To Death itself, for his death doth repent."* 
 
 De JoANN.E Patersox. 
 Memorise dilectissimi, conjugis, Joannis Patersoni, 
 Qui cum suavissimo matrimonii vinculo, 
 XXXV. plus minus annos transegisset ; 
 Et aliquoties balivi munere, in vico (Canongate) 
 Functus esset. Obiit anno Christi MDCLXIII, 
 Apr. XXIII. aetatis LXIII. Amoris et officii ergo, 
 
 Monumentum hoc dicavit Agneta Lyelly 
 Qua hsec ipsa obiit A.D.MDCLXIV.Ap.XXIII.ffitatisLXI. 
 Ecce Patersoni, mortis sicura, secunda 
 Mens peregrinantes quae pereganda monet. 
 
 TUAXSLATION. 
 
 To the memory of her most beloved husband, John Pater- 
 son, who, after he had lived about 35 years in the sweet 
 bond of wedlock, and had frequently discharged the office 
 of Bailie in the Canongate, died in the year of Christ 1663, 
 April 23, in the 63d year of his age. In token of her love 
 and duty, Agnes I-yell dedicated this monument ; and who 
 also died April 23, 1664, in the 61st year of her age. 
 
 Lo ! Paterson's kind ghost redeemed from hell. 
 To sojourners their duty clear doth tell. 
 
73 
 
 Stay passenger ! Consider well, 
 
 That thou, ere long, with me must dwell. 
 
 Endeavouring while thou has breath. 
 
 How to avoid the second death : 
 
 For, on this moment, do depend 
 
 Torments and pleasures without end. 
 
 See then, to sin, thou daily die, 
 
 So shalt thou live eternallie ; 
 
 And serve the Lord with all thy might : 
 
 The day'*s far spent, fast comes the night. 
 
 Mark well, my son, what here you read : 
 
 The best advice is from the dead. 
 
 MARY MOSS. 
 Here lies Mary Moss, daughter to Edward Moss, who 
 departed this life, in the year of God 1671. 
 Aged 18 years. 
 Here lies interrM chaste beauty's maid. 
 In whom death virtue hath betray'd ; 
 Meek, modest, mild, sweet Mary Moss, 
 Perfection's flow'r, in primely bloss. 
 Transformed now is into dust ; 
 Had the respect of all in trust, 
 From wedlock's hope divorced here, 
 Stop reader, and her worth admire. 
 
 RICHARD AND ROBERT HENDERSON. 
 
 Two brethren, Hendersons, here lye below, 
 
 Sons to Alexander Henderson, Gardiner ; 
 " Struck in the prime of youth by death's sad blow. 
 " Richard could write and read, Robert could cure. 
 " Their arts, strength, stature, seem'd them to secure 
 " Longer from this attack ; but we may see. 
 
 Nothing impedes the course of destinie. 
 
 « Richard died the 30th Novr. 1677 ; his age 33. 
 
 « Robert died 21st June, 1680; his age 23. 
 K 
 
DESCRIPTION 
 
 ^ OF THE 
 
 ABBEY CHURCH, &c. of HOLYROOD. 
 
 The Monastery of Holyrood, was situated in a small val- 
 ley at the eastern extremity of the Canongate, having the 
 hills of Arthur Seat and Salisbury Craigs on the south, the 
 Calton Hill on the north, and the ancient City of Edinburgh, 
 towering majestically towards the castle, on the west ; the 
 ground eastward being almost a plain, with a gentle inclina- 
 tion towards the Frith of Forth. 
 
 Previous to offering any description of the building itself, 
 it may be proper to submit an account of the uniform situa- 
 tion and distribution of a religious establishment during the 
 prevalence of our ecclesiastical architecture, as this will 
 tend to convey a more correct idea of the probable nature, 
 and the original extent, of the accommodations of Holyrood 
 Abbey. 
 
 This general description of an abbey is taken from a 
 well written account of the town of Shrewsbury, pub- 
 lished in 1808. * " The principal buildings of an abbey 
 were, — 1st, The church, which consisted of a nave or 
 great western aisle, choir, transept, and usually a large 
 chapel beyond the choir, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, 
 with smaller chapels or chantries adjoining the side aisles 
 
 • See also Brewster's Encyclopaedia, art. Civil Architecture, Section anent 
 Practice of Gothic Architecture. 
 
75 
 
 of the choir, antl sometimes of the nave. In short, an abbey- 
 church differed hardly at all from one of our cathedrals. At- 
 tached to one side of the nave, commonly the southern, v^as, 
 2dly, The great cloister, which had two entrances to the 
 church, at the eastern and western ends of the aisle of the 
 nave, for the greater solemnity of processions. And over the 
 western side of the cloister was in general, 3dly, The dor- 
 mitory of the monks ; a long room divided into separate 
 cells, each containing a bed, with a mat, blanket, and rug, 
 also a desk and stool, occupied by a monk. This apartment 
 had a door which opened immediately into the church, on 
 account of midnight offices. Attached to the side of the 
 cloister, opposite to the church, was, 4thly, The refectory 
 where the monks dined. In the centre of the upper end, 
 raised on two or three steps, was a large crucifix. On the 
 right hand, at a table, sat the abbot, when he dined there ; 
 and, in his absence, the prior with his guests, of which there 
 were every day many ; and on the left the sub-prior. The 
 monks sat at tables, ranged on each side of the hall, accord- 
 ing to their offices and seniority. Near the refectory, under 
 which were cellars, as at Worcester, &c. was, 5thly, The 
 locutorium, or parlour, an apartment answering to the com- 
 mon room of a college, where, in the intervals of prayer and 
 study, the monks sat and conversed. This was the only 
 room in which a constant fire was allowed in winter. Be- 
 yond was the kitchen and its offices, and adjoining to it the 
 buttery, lavatory, &c. On the eastern side of the cloisters 
 was, in the centre, 6thly, The chapter-house, where the busi- 
 ness of the abbey was transacted. On one side was a place 
 with stone benches around it, where perhaps the tenants 
 waited ; on the other, a room in which records were depo- 
 sited, and near it the library and scriptorium, where the 
 monks employed themselves in copying books. On this 
 side also, close up to the transept of the church, was the 
 treasury, where the costly plate and church ornaments were 
 kept. Beyond the greater cloister was frequently, in the greater 
 abbeys, a smaller, perhaps for the lay brothers, as at Glou- 
 cester ; and more eastward was the lodging of the abbot, 
 
 2 
 
76 
 
 consisting of a complete house, with hall, chapel, &c. The 
 other principal officers of the convent had also separate houses, 
 viz. the cellarer or house-steward, the sacrist, almoner, &c. 
 as at Worcester. In this part was usually the hostery and 
 guesten hall, rooms for the entertainment of strangers, also 
 the apartments for novices. Westward of the cloister was 
 an outward court, round which was the monk's infirmary, 
 and the almery. An embattled gate house led to this court, 
 which was the principal entrance of the abbey. The whole was 
 surrounded with an high wall, generally fortified with battle- 
 ments and towers. The precinct which it included, was, 
 besides the above mentioned buildings, occupied by gardens, 
 stables, a mill, barns, granary, &c. Some of the great ab- 
 beys, situated in the country, as at Glastonbury and Furness, 
 covered sixty acres." 
 
 The Abbey of Sancta Cruets originally stood upon the 
 same spot which the Royal Palace of Holyroodhouse, with 
 the adjoining courts and gardens, now occupy. The prin- 
 cipal entrance was from the west, under a portico of pointed 
 arches, surmounted by turrets. The portico, which stood 
 across the street leading from the foot of the Canongate into 
 the outer or western court of the Palace, was taken down 
 in the year 1755. The conventual church was situated at the 
 north side of the abbey, and built in the form of a cross, 
 with a square tower or lanthorn, raised upon four large pil- 
 lars, with lofty connecting arches, in the centre of the build- 
 ing, where the four branches met ; the choir and Lady's 
 Chapel occupying the branch eastward of the great central 
 tower, and the transept forming the north and south branches. 
 These parts of the church were destroyed, as before mention- 
 ed, about the middle of the 16th century; and all that now 
 remains is the unroofed nave, or western branch of the con- 
 ventual church, being what was lately fitted up as a Royal 
 Chapel in the reign of James VII. together with some frag- 
 ments of the transept and cloister. The cloister joined this 
 part of the church on the south, and communicated with it 
 by two doors, the eastmost of which still remains at the 
 back of the Royal Vault. From traces still visible on the 
 
77 
 
 ground, the choir and Lady's Chapel appear to have ex- 
 tended about as far eastward into the park, as the length of 
 the remaining part of the building : Whence it may be in- 
 ferred, that the lanthorn tower had stood at equal distances 
 from the eastern and western extremities of the church, as in 
 York Cathedral. Another square tower still remains at the 
 north-west corner of the Church, which appears to have be- 
 longed to the original structure. Most probably it is one 
 of two towers which had flanked the great western entrance, 
 in the same manner with those of the Abbey churches of 
 Dunfermline and Westminster, and the Cathedrals of El- 
 gin, Aberdeen, York, Litchfield, and many others. The 
 buildings of the Palace are joined to the church at the place 
 where the south-western tower had stood. 
 
 The Koyal Chapel, which forms the more immediate sub- 
 ject of enquiry, is built of freestone, ef an oblong form, extend- 
 ing over walls about 148 feet from west to east, and 66 feet 
 from north to south. This, as before noticed, was the nave of 
 the original conventual church, and when entire, consisted of 
 a centre and two side aisles, communicating with each other 
 by a double range of equilateral pointed arches, consisting 
 of eight in either row, and springing from clustered columns, 
 with lightly ornamented capitals. Above each of these rows, 
 a second range of smaller pointed arches, double in number, 
 formed the front of a gallery over the stone vaulting of the 
 side aisles ; and on the top of each of these second rows, (as 
 marks in the ruined walls still evince,) was a third range of 
 similar small arches, open towards the inside of the church, 
 and forming a gallery or passage in the thickness of the 
 walls, by which a communication was maintained with either 
 extremity of the building, in the same manner as in Melrose 
 Abbey, Dunblane Cathedral, &c. and many other ancient 
 churches. 
 
 In the outside of this upper gallery or passage, which 
 rose a storey higher than the side aisles, were a number of 
 long and narrow lancet-topped windows, which conveyed 
 light into the upper part of the middle aisle.* The roof of 
 
 • See outside view of this Abbey Church in Maitland's History of Edinburgh, 
 '^vhieh represents it with the roof as entire as in 1753. 
 
78 
 
 this upper part of the building was vaulted with groins and 
 intersecting stone ribs, in a manner similar to the roofs of 
 St Giles's, and Trinity College Churches of Edinburgh. It 
 fell down in 1768, as already mentioned, when the walls, and 
 flying buttresses which crossed the tops of the side aisles, 
 gave way, and destroyed in their fall the upper windows 
 and galleries on both sides, the roof of the north aisle, and 
 the range of pillars and arches that divided it from the 
 middle aisle of the church. The pillars and large arches 
 of the southern range, with the south side aisle, escaped 
 this destruction, and are still entire, also the smaller arches 
 of the second storey, that formed the gallery immediately 
 over the south side aisle ; but the gallery itself is hid by a 
 low modern roof, which protects the only part of the stone 
 vaulting that now remains. 
 
 This building has been long considered an elegant speci- 
 men of what is generally called gothic, or pointed architec- 
 ture. From its appearance, it partakes both of the first and 
 second orders of the pointed style, or what chiefly prevailed 
 in ecclesiastical fabrics from the beginning of the 12th, to the 
 latter end of the 13th century. Upon a minute inspection, how- 
 ever, the pointed work in many places appears to have been 
 superinduced upon old Norman work, such as generally pre- 
 vailed during the 11th, and early part of the 12th centu- 
 ries, and which was not altogether superseded by the point- 
 ed style, until the latter end of the 12th century. Several 
 characteristic features indeed, of the old Norman style of 
 that period, may still be seen in various parts of this build- 
 ing, such as the semicircular-topped window, the chevron, 
 or zigzag, and billet mouldings, the interlacing arcades 
 along the basement storey, and the flat pilaster on the out- 
 side walls, that jfreceded the projecting buttress. These, 
 with the parts immediately adjacent to them, there is reason 
 to believe, are the remains of the original work of David I. 
 which was begun in 1128. The other parts of the fabric, ' 
 which are in the pointed style, have, we think, as already 
 hinted, been superinduced upon that original work at diffe- 
 rent successive periods. The greater number of the reli- 
 
79 
 
 gious structures of that age, it is well known, experienced si- 
 milar treatment; and Holyrood Abbey was not entirely freed 
 from " this struggle of the styles." Dallaway, in his Anec- 
 dotes of Architecture, states, that " the Chapel of Holyrood- 
 «* house was finished about the year 1440, by James II. 
 «« King of Scotland, and is flanked with flying buttresses, 
 like those of King's College Chapel, Cambridge, and West- 
 " minster Abbey, but with happier effect, because in a purer 
 " style.'' 
 
 The flying buttresses, with several other embellishments, 
 as formerly noticed, were added by Abbot Crawfurd, who 
 died 1483. Of these, the under range remains on the south 
 side of the church. They spring from piers placed about 10 
 feet distant from the wall, and, crossing the walk of the 
 cloister, rest against the top of flat Norman pilasters in the 
 wall of the south aisle.* Evident marks of the roof to a 
 covered walk round the cloister are still visible, both upon'the 
 south wall of the church, and on these buttresses. A range 
 of upright buttresses, with canopied niches -f and pinnacles 
 of a recent date, remain against the north wall of the church ; 
 but the flying buttresses, which sprung from the tops of these 
 under buttresses, across the north and south side aisles, to sup- 
 port the upper walls that rose above the arches of the nave, 
 have shared the same fate with the roof, walls, and internal 
 arches with which they were connected. As a corrobora- 
 tive proof of the change, from the circular to the pointed 
 style, above alluded to, it may be here noticed, that the small 
 windows of both the north and south aisles, correspond in 
 their dimensions and general appearance to those of the 11th 
 . and 1 2th centuries. Those in the north wall bear evident 
 marks of alteration from the narrow semicircular tops of 
 the Norman school, to the slightly pointed tops introduced 
 in the middle, or latter end of the 12th century ; while the 
 original capitals and bases of the small pillars, which had 
 
 • See a south-east view of this church in Arnot's Hist, of Edinburgh, 4to. 
 
 •j- Over these niches are a number of armorial bearings, (some of them much 
 defaced,) finely executed in stone ; among which are found the said Abbot, Ar- 
 chibald Crawfurd's, viz. AFesaermine, with a star of Jive points in chief : 
 ** Or surrounded hy a bishop's mitre, proper, resting upon a cross and Salter^ cross 
 ** lettered, proper,** 
 
80 
 
 stood at either side of these windows still remain. The 
 windows of the south wall have still round tops and small 
 pillars on the outside, but inwardly are very slightly pointr 
 ed. Besides these fragments of the old church of David 
 I. there also remains in the south wall, and immediately at 
 the back of the Royal Vault, the ea&tmost of the two doors 
 that led from the nave into the cloister. It is of Norman 
 workmanship, and with a semicircular top, surrounded with 
 the billet and chevron, or zigzag mouldings. The westelrn 
 door into the cloister is now concealed by the buildings of 
 the Palace. The basement storey on the outside of the 
 south wall, westward from this door, and which formed 
 the north boundary of the cloister, is also adorned with an 
 arcade of small pointed arches rising from small pillars; 
 and both this and the north wall are lined along the in- 
 side of the basement storey with similar arcades, rising 
 from small pillars with ornamented capitals. Those against 
 the north wall are interlaced ; and where they intersect 
 each other describe pointed arches. Such arcades were 
 uniformly used ,by the Norman architects, prior to the in- 
 troduction of the pointed style, and generally are consider- 
 ed to have given rise to the pointed arch. 
 
 The principal entrance to this Church, as usual in such 
 buildings, was by a large arched door at the western extre- 
 mity, which opened immediately into the centre aisle. It 
 was used only on extraordinary occasions, and for particular 
 ceremonies. There is also in the north wall, and opening 
 into the north side aisle, a smaller door, ornamented with 
 niches, &c. in a manner which corresponds to the time of 
 Abbot Crawfurd. This door had probably been the ordinary 
 entrance for those who did not live within the monastery ; 
 while the two doors entering from the cloister, afforded the 
 readiest access to the Canons, and other inmates of the es- 
 tablishment. 
 
 At the west end of the Chapel, a little from the Belfry, and 
 nearly in a line with the pillars on that side of the nave, is a 
 door that opens into a stair leading to the rood-loft. South 
 from the great west entrance is another door, now walled up. 
 
81 
 
 that had led into the south-west tower of the Church ; and 
 close hy it, in the south wall, is the communication with the 
 quadrangle of the Palace, through which visitors are usually 
 conducted into the Chapel. 
 
 The external prospect of the Chapel from the east, con- 
 sists of one large window in the centre, with a lesser one on 
 each side, placed in the arches which had originally sepa- 
 rated the nave from the transept. The large centre win- 
 dow is slightly pointed. — The two lesser ones more acutely ; 
 and both arie raised on clustered half pillars, partly cop- 
 cealed by the modern east wall. 
 
 It is needless to offer any further conjectural account of, 
 those parts of the Church and Abbey which are now des-' 
 troyed. They are delineated, however, on the plan that ac- 
 companies the description of the Sanctuary, which the reader 
 may consult ; and reference to the accompanying views, 
 with a short explanation of each, may suffice for any addi- 
 tional description of the ruins. 
 
 Plate 2d represents the external appearance which the 
 western front exhibits at the present time. Here is seen 
 the principal Entrance, consisting of a highly pointed 
 arch, which is now built up ; and, over it, too large 
 windows which lighted the Rood-laft, and organ gallery. 
 The columns and moulding of the door piece are elegantly 
 designed, and executed in a bold style, with sculpture orna- 
 ments, resembling dogs, serpents, cherubs, and various kinds 
 of foliage. Inimediately above this door, and upon the 
 wall which forms the division of the said two windows, a 
 small pquare tablet projects, with the following inscription 
 
 H£ SHALL BUILD ANE HOUSE 
 FOR MY NAME AND I WILL 
 STABLISH THE THRONE 
 OF HIS KINGDOM 
 FOR EVER. 
 
 BASILICAM HANG SEMI 
 RUTAM, CAROLUS REX. 
 OPTIMUS INSTAURAVIT, 
 ANNO DONI 
 CI3. IdC XXXIIT. 
 
 L 
 
82 
 
 And at the top, are the fragments of the Scottish Arms, 
 which had been cut in wood, and affixed to the wall. 
 
 To the left is shewn the North-west tower of the Con- 
 ventual Church, latterly used as a vestry, and in which were 
 hung the bells of the Royal-Chapel. ♦ It rose to the height of 
 the adjacent buildings, and was continued in the form of an 
 ogee turret, resembling the upper part of the Tron Kirk 
 steeple of Edinburgh, or College steeple of Glasgow. The 
 lower part of this tower is ornamented with arcades corres* 
 ponding to the door piece. The windows, which appear to 
 be modernized, are placed in the upper storey ; and each of 
 theni is divided by a plain central mullion, and quatrefoil 
 in the centre above it. This tower was covered in with a, 
 leaden roof in 1816. 
 
 Plate 3d exhibits the north prospect of the Chapel ; in 
 which are seen the upright buttresses of Abbot Crawfurd, with 
 the small window?, slightly pointed in the top, that lighted 
 the north aisle ; the north door, that enters from what was 
 formerly the church-yard, also a part of the second row of 
 inside arches, are seen over-topping the wall, with a part of 
 the east end, and the large altar window of the Chapel- 
 Royal. At the left extremity of the Chapel, in this view, 
 is seen the small fragment of the north transcept ; and be- 
 yond this, to the left, Mylne''s monument, a part of Arthur's 
 Seat, with the ruins of St Anthony's Chapel and Hermitage, 
 in the distance. 
 
 Plate 4:th contains an inside view of the Chapel, looking 
 towards the east. On the right, the remaining row of pillars, 
 from which spring large equilateral pointed arches, with 
 the second row of smaller pillars and arches, that formed 
 the front of the first gallery. Each of these upper arches 
 is divided by a slender pillar, or mullion, into two smaller 
 arches, with trefoil heads, and an open quatrefoil in the 
 centre above each. Through the under arches, the groin- 
 ing of the south aisle is decerned, with three of the 
 windows that looked into the Cloister. Also the ar- 
 
 • One of these bells is said to be hung in the Tron Kirk steeple, another in St 
 Cuthbert's Chapel of Ease, and a third in one of the turrets of St Paul's, York 
 Place, Edinburgh, having been granted to the Episcopalian Congregation of that 
 Chapel when thci? former place of worship in the Cowgate was built 177 
 
83 
 
 cade of small pillars and pointed arches along the base- 
 ment storey of the south aisle. The Roxburgh and Royal 
 burial vaults appear immediately under the two eastmost 
 of the large arches. The large east window is also very- 
 conspicuous, occupying the western and only remaining 
 one of the four large arches, on which the lanthorn tower 
 in the centre of the Church had rested, and pointing out by- 
 its sweep, the curvature of the original vaulting of the mid- 
 dle aisle. This window is of modern execution, and subse- 
 quent to the destruction of the choir and transept. It pro- 
 bably was first formed in the reign of James VI. or Charles I. 
 by the latter of whom, according to the inscription above 
 the west door, the Church appears to have undergone some 
 , considerable repairs in the year 1633. This east window, 
 as represented in the plate, was restored in the year 1816, 
 with the original mullions that had lain scattered around, ever 
 since it yielded to a violent storm in 1795. To the left of 
 this large window is seen an arch, now built up, that divided 
 the transept from the east end of the north aisle of the 
 nave. In the under part of this arch there appears, both 
 without and within the building, some screen work in stone, 
 containing a door of communication with the transepts, pro- 
 bably the entrance to a Chantry or private Chapel. This 
 screen work is shewn in the plate. In the foreground ap- 
 pear the two fragments of the northern row of pillars. And 
 on the upper part of the east wall, at the sides of the large 
 window, are seen the marks of the stone walls and galleries 
 that fell in with the roof in 1768. 
 
 Plate 5th is an inside view of the Church, looking west- 
 ward ; in which appears, to the left, five of the remaining 
 large arches. — In the centre, the western entrance, with the 
 two windows of the rood-loft, and the small door of the stair- 
 case that leads to it. — On the right, the inside of the north 
 wall, with several of the pillars attached to it, that corres- 
 ponded to the northern row of clustered columns, which are 
 now gone : Also three of the small Norman windows, alter- 
 ed into the pointed style of the interior of the building ; and 
 under them, along the basement of the wall, the intersecting 
 arcade of small pillars and arches before mentioned ; with 
 
84 
 
 a ptttt of Bishop Wishart's monument, on the right, and 
 several of the flat tomb stones along the floor of the north 
 aisle. The two fragments of the north row of columns oc- 
 cupy the foreground, while the top of the north-west tower, 
 and the pinnacles of several of the northern buttresses, are 
 seen overtopping the ruined walls. 
 
 The dimensions of this splendid ruin are as follows :— 
 
 Feet. Inch. 
 
 Length within walls, . .127 
 
 
 Breadth within walls, 
 
 49 
 
 
 ■ of the middle aisle, 
 
 25 
 
 
 J.1 • 1 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 
 
 Height 01 the east end wall, to the top oi the 
 
 
 
 ±leur-ae-Jis, 
 
 70 
 
 
 Length of the great east window, 
 
 Of; 
 OU 
 
 
 Breadth of it, • • • 
 
 1 0 
 
 
 Width of the original arch in which it is placed. 
 
 O 1 
 
 Til 
 
 Q 
 
 Height of the point of the arch, being the origi- 
 
 
 
 nal height oi the inner vaulting, about 
 
 dk) 
 
 
 ^i* 
 
 »o 
 
 
 Girth 01 each, . 
 
 lb 
 
 o 
 
 Width 01 the arches, : * 
 
 10 
 
 
 Height 01 the side walls, • 
 
 28 
 
 
 „. 1 1 
 
 59 
 
 
 __1 _ 1 A _ /• ?J_\ 
 
 22 
 
 4 
 
 Width of the west door. 
 
 9 
 
 o 
 
 Height of the north-west square tower. 
 
 62 
 
 
 Breadth of it, outside, . (square) 
 
 23 
 
 
 *■■ — inside, , . (square) 
 
 15 
 
 6 
 
 Width of the windows in the N. and S. aisles. 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 Except the two eastmost in the south wall next 
 
 
 
 the cloister, one of which is. 
 
 4 
 
 
 And the other, . . 4 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 Width of the north side door. 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 i)epth of Piers of Buttresses in the cloister^ 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 Breadth of these piers, 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 Width of the walk in the cloister^ 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
PALACE OF HOL YROODHOUSE- 
 
 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT. 
 
 The imaginary sanctity that was attached to monastic es- 
 tablishments, during the dark ages of superstition, and the 
 extensive and convenient accommodations they generally 
 afforded, rendered them desirable as the occasional residen- 
 ces of kings and their nobles. The large and opulent Abbey 
 of Holyrood, soon after its foundation, became the frequent 
 resort of the Court and Parliament, during the earlier reigns 
 of the house of Stewart. It thereby appears to have gra- 
 dually given rise to a distinct royal establishment. We 
 have no direct information, however, when, or by whom a 
 Palace, separate from the Abbey, was first erected ; and it is 
 difficult to distinguish the early history of the one from the 
 other. The historians of Edinburgh have indeed supposed 
 James V. was the first who gave rise to the Palace, from his 
 having, " in the spring of the year 1525, yowwdfed a fair palace 
 
 in the Abbey of Holyroodhouse, and three great tours till rest 
 " into, when he pleased to come *."" This building still 
 remains, and forms the north-west part of the present Palace. 
 An attentive consideration, however, of the following par- 
 ticulars will make it appear at least somewhat probable, that 
 there was a royal residence here, distinct from the religious 
 establishment y previous to the days of James V. 
 
 On 8th March 1326-7, Robert Bruce held his fourteenth 
 parliament within the church of Holyrood Abbey ; and Ed- 
 
 • PitsCottie's Chron* 
 
86 
 
 Ward Ballol held his parliament in the same place in Fe- 
 bruary 1333-4. In this Abbey Robert III. occasionally 
 resided when he came to Edinburgh, and here granted the 
 remission to Albany and Douglas, for his son Kothsay^s 
 death. James I. and his Queen also resided at Holyrood ; 
 where, on the 16th Oct. 1430, she was delivered of male twins; 
 one of whom, (James II.) succeeded his father, and was 
 crowned here on the 25th March 1437. In June 1449, that 
 Prince was married in this favoured place, to Mary of 
 Guelders. He was also buried here in x\ugust 1460. Holy- 
 rood was thus the scene of four of the principal events in the 
 personal history of James II. ; viz. his birth, coronation, 
 marriage, and burial. James III. took up his abode here 
 " while he gladdened Edinburgh with his presence,*" and 
 *< on the 13th of July 1469, was maryit in Holi/roodhouse, 
 ** in great dignitie, with Margaret, the king's douchter of 
 ** Norway, Dasie, Swasie, and Denmark 
 
 It is considered by some, that James IV. was the first 
 Scottish king who built a palace distinct from the Abbey at 
 Holyrood ; for in the accounts given by Young, the herald 
 of that king's marriage, at the age of thirty, to Margaret of 
 England, in her 14th year, which took place at Holyrood 
 Abbey, on the 7th August 1503, it is mentioned, that " af- 
 " ter all reverences doon at the church, in order as before *)•, 
 
 the king transported himself to the Pallaisy through the 
 
 " Old Chron. at the end of Wyntoun, 
 ■j- It was reserved, however, for Dunbar, the old Scottish poet,* to celebrate 
 these nuptials in a strain of versification, wherein he emulates the amatory 
 effusions of James I. as well as the elegant tales of Chaucer : 
 
 To see this court ; hot all were went away ; 
 Then up I leinyt, halflings in affrey, 
 Calt to my Muse, and for my subject chois, 
 ** To sing the ryel Thrissil and the Rose." 
 
 See Chalmer*s Caledonian^ vol. II. Notes of pp. 604-5. 
 Which also contain an account of the above mentioned marriage, taken from 
 Leland*s Collection, IV. 290. 
 
87 
 
 ** closlre, holdynge allwayes the Quene by the body, and hys 
 ** hed bare, tyll he had brought her within her chammer." 
 The same monarch also, on the IGth February 1505-6, ra- 
 tified in Parliament his gift of 20 marks from the great 
 customs of Edinburgh, for the maintenance of a chaplain to 
 sing in the chapel, within his Palace of Ilolj/rood, and for his 
 fee in keeping the Palace.''^ In 1506, the Palace appears to 
 have sustained some injury by lire ; for on the 17th April 
 that year, he granted a charter to the Earl of Huntly, in 
 which he recited, that the EarFs title deeds had been lately 
 consumed by fire, in his lodging within the royal Palace.-I* 
 
 Pitscottie and Leslie also inform, that when James V. 
 arrived from France, with Magdalene, his first consort, at 
 Leith, on the 19th May 1537, they immediately passed to 
 the " Palace of Holyrood ; where she remained, until prepa- 
 rations were made for her triumphant entry into Edinburgh. 
 Soon afterwards, she was conducted through the capital, at- 
 tended by a magnificent procession, and demonstrations of 
 joy. But these were of short duration. Forty days saw her 
 carried amid mournful lamentations to Holyrood Abbey.'''}: 
 
 During the inroad of the Earl of Hertford, in the minori- 
 ty of Queen Mary, this Palace, with the Abbey, were burnt 
 by the English army, as formerly noticed. They were both 
 however soon repaired, || when the Palace became a larger 
 building than the present, and consisted of five courts. The 
 outer or western one was considerably larger than any of the 
 others ; bounded on the east by the front of the Palace, on 
 the north, by the King''s garden wall, on the west, by the 
 keeper''s house, porter''s lodge, and grand entrance, of which 
 a fragment only is now standing. The second court oc- 
 cupied the same situation as the present Palace, and was 
 surrounded with buildings. On the south there were two 
 
 • Pari. Rec. 523, and MSS. Donations. 
 -|- Gorden's Hist, of Gordons, I. 408. 
 X See note, page 55. 
 11 Arnot's Edinburgh, 253, 
 
88 
 
 smaller courts, also surrounded with buildings. There was 
 another court towards the east, bounded on the north by the 
 Chapel Royal ; on the west, by a line of buildings covering 
 and occupying the same space with the present east front of 
 the Palace ; on the south, by a row of buildings long since 
 demolished ; and on the north, by a wall, which divided it 
 from the large field denominated St Anne's Yards. This 
 eastern court probably was the original cloister of the Abbey, 
 now an enclosed grass plot on the east side of the present 
 Palace ; and there is some probability indeed, that the greater 
 part of the former Palace consisted of the monastic dwell- 
 ings, repaired and adapted for the royal residence ; which 
 supposition will also account for the enlargement of the Pa- 
 lace, subsequent to the dissolution of the Abbey at the Re- 
 formation. 
 
 Upon her return to Scotland, Queen Mary took possession 
 of this Palace, on the 19th April 1561 ; and on the 29th July 
 1565, her marriage with Henry, Lord Darnley, was solem- 
 nized in the adjoining Abbey Church, at five oVlock in the 
 morning. 
 
 The assault and murder of David Rizzio, secretary tq 
 Queen Mary, was perpetrated in this Palace on the 9th 
 March 1566. And his blood is said still to stain the floor 
 of one of the oldest apartments. On the 15th of May 1567, 
 the hall of this Palace was the scene of the same Queen'*s 
 unfortunate union with James Earl of BothwelL* They 
 soon however abandoned Holyrood House, in consequence 
 of a threatened seizure of their persons ; fled from it to 
 Bothwell castle, and thence to the castle of Dunbar. Af- 
 ter being brought back to her own Palace, from the un- 
 fortunate affair at Carberry hill, she was removed, on 
 the 15th of the same month, to Lochleven castle, as a pri- 
 soner for life ; where, soon afterwards, in compliance with 
 the demands of her rebellious nobles, she resigned the Crown 
 into their hands, in favour of her infant son James VI. 
 
 After Mary's removal from Holyroodhouse, the articles of 
 value belonging to her were seized by the nobles^, and her 
 
 • Sec note to p. 35. 
 
m 
 
 plate ordered to be coined, for answering their pecuniary 
 demands. 
 
 Some trifling alterations and repairs were made on the 
 Palace of Holyroodhouse, under the direction of Inigo 
 J ones, about the time of James VI's return from Denmark 
 with his Queen, who was solemnly crowned^ on the 7th of 
 May 1590, with the accustomed rites, in the Abbey Church. 
 Holyroodhouse indeed appears to have been a favourite re- 
 sidence of James VI. until his elevation to the English 
 throne. It was here that jiiis Queen was delivered of the 
 Prince Henry Frederick, on the 19th February 1594, and 
 again, on the 19[th August 1596, of the Princess Elizabeth^ 
 who was also christened here on the 1 st December follow- 
 ing. 
 
 After a splendid reception by the Magistrates and citizens 
 *of Edinburgh, Charies I. was crowned in the Abbey Church 
 ^of Holyrood, on the 18th of June 1633, with unwonted 
 ^ceremonies, and perhaps unexampled splendour. 
 
 Great part of the Palace was destroyed by ^he soldiers of 
 Cromwell ; after which it appears to have reippiained in a 
 fTuinous condition until the Restoration, when an order was 
 •issued by Charles II. for repairing it. In consequence of 
 this mandate, the present magnificent fabric was designed 
 'by Sir William Bruce, a celebrated architect of that reign, 
 and built by Hobert Mylne, mason, A. D. 1671-8. It never 
 was, however, the permanent residence of any Scottish 
 Monarch. 
 
 During the Reign of James VII. who manifested an un- 
 rconstitutional partiality to Roman Catholics, Holyrood- 
 house appears to have been destined by that bigotted prince 
 .as a nursery for superstition. Not satisfied with securing to 
 ffiis Popish subjects within the precincts of his Palace, the free 
 ^exercise of their religion, at a time when the most limited 
 degree of that religious toleration, now so liberally enjoyed 
 ,by every British subject, was considered as a conniyance at 
 heresy, James most imprudently instituted a " Popish Col- 
 
 lege in the Abbey of Holyrood,'' and published rules for it 
 vOn the 22d March 1688, inviting children to be thqre educate^ 
 
 M 
 
90 
 
 gratis.* He also appointed one Watson, -f* a Popish printer, 
 who had availed himself of the protection of the Sanctuary, 
 to be King's Printer in Holyroodhouse. This Watson also 
 obtained a right from the Privy Council, to print all the 
 prognostications at Edinburgh, w^hich accounts for several 
 books bearing in their title pages to have been printed at 
 that period in Holyroodhouse. 
 
 On the 23d November 1686, the King's Yacht arrived 
 from London at Leith with the altar, vestments, images, 
 priests, and their apurtenances for the celebration of Popish 
 worship in the Royal Chapel. On St Andrew's day, (30th 
 November,) the Chapel was consecrated by holy water, and 
 a sermon by Wederington.J The effects of this imprudence 
 soon became manifest ; for, in December 1 688, the populace 
 of Edinburgh meditated revenge ; and being joined by the 
 Students of the University, proceeded to Holyroodhouse to 
 accomplish their design upon the unconscious structure. 
 They were indeed opposed by the guard, who fired upon 
 them, under the direction of Captain Wallace ; but having 
 surmounted this obstacle, they forced the doors of the Cha- 
 pel, and after destroying the ornamental parts of the build, 
 ing, carried off the furniture to the cross, where it was burn- 
 ed in zealous triumph. 
 
 In the year 1746, the ypung Chevalier Charles, during 
 his residence in Edinburgh, took possession of the old apart- 
 ments built by James V. ; and a few weeks afterwards, the 
 Duke of Cumberland, on his return from the victorious, but 
 bloody field of Culloden, occupied the same rooms, and the 
 same bed, which is still remaining. 
 
 Subsequent to this time, the Palace was much neglected 
 for many years. About 30 years since, however, the Hon- 
 ourable the Barons of Exchequer caused the whole buildings 
 
 • Fountainhall's Dec. 1. 502. Wodrow II. Appendix. 142. 
 •f Father of James Watson, the Queen's printer, during the reign of Anne. 
 Fountainhall II. 399-403. 
 
 t Id. I. 430 and 432. 
 
91 
 
 of the Palace to undergo a thorough repair, in a plain but 
 substantial manner. And shortly afterwards, the Royal 
 apartments afforded an asylum to the unfortunate exiles of 
 the Royal Family of France, Monsieur, (then Count D'Ar- 
 tois,) and his two Sons, the Dukes D'Angouleme and Berri, 
 with many other of the French nobility. These illustrious 
 strangers, after a residence of several years in this Palace, 
 left Scotland in 1799, after expressing a high sense of grati- 
 tude for the generous and respectful treatment they had ex- 
 perienced from the Magistrates and inhabitants of the city 
 of Edinburgh, and from the Scottish nobility and gentry.* 
 During his residence in Holyroodhouse, his Royal Highness 
 had frequent levees, which were extremely brilliant, and at- 
 tended by the nobility and the first characters in the country. 
 These tended in some degree to excite in the minds of the 
 inhabitants a faint idea " of the days of other years," when 
 the presence of its monarchs communicated splendour and 
 animation to this ancient metropolis, inspiring it with a proud 
 consciousness of the remote antiquity, and hereditary inde- 
 pendence of the Scottish throne. 
 
 • Before His Royal Highness left Holyroodhouse, he addressed a letter to the 
 Lord Provost and Magistrates of Edinburgh, of which the following is a trans- 
 lation : 
 
 " Edinburgh, August 5, 1799. 
 Gentlemen, — Circumstances relative to the good of the service of the 
 King my brother, making it requisite that I should leave this country, where, 
 during my residence, I have constantly received the most distinguished marks 
 of attention and regard, I should reproach myself were I to depart M'ithout 
 expressing to its respective magistrates, and through them to the inhabitants 
 at large, the grateful sense with which my heart is penetrated for the noble 
 manner in which they have seconded the generous hospitality of His Britannic 
 Majesty. I hope I shall one day have it in my power to make known in hap- 
 pier moments my feelings on this occasion, and express to you more fully the 
 sentiment with which you have inspired me ; the sincere assurance of which 
 time only permits me to offer you at present. 
 
 ^''^'^ThtcLy^'^^E^^^^^ (Signed) CHARLES PHILIP." 
 
 Exchequer records. 
 
If he circumstance too, of the heir-apparertt to one of the' 
 iViost powerful sovereigns in Europe, compelled to seek 
 refuge in a remote corner of the British empire, afforded at 
 once a striking example of the mutability of human gran- 
 deur,— of the liberality that distinguishes the present race of 
 Scotsmen, — and of the exalted generosity of the British na- 
 tion ; which, triumphing over inveterate enmity, protected 
 and entertained with Royal munificence, %he ill fated rem- 
 nants of a once powerful family, who had often ])ursued a 
 policy highly inimical to the interests of Great Britain. 
 
 Subsequent to their departure in 1799, several of these 
 refugees again returned to Holyroodhouse ; and it is but a 
 few years since they finally left it for their native country. 
 
 The occasional residence within the Palace of several 
 Aoble families, particularly those of the Duke of Argyle, the 
 Earl of Breadalbane, and Lord Dnnmore, who enjoy lodgings 
 here by Royal grants, tends to preserve the buildings in a 
 good condition, and in some measHre to prevent that me- 
 lancholy stillness which prevails in a large mansion, when 
 forsaken by its owners. That portion of the Palace which 
 was built by James V. is allotted to the Duke of Hamilton 
 as heritable keeper of the Palace, and has for some time past 
 been the city residence of the family of Alexander, Marqnia^ 
 ef Douglas and Clydesdale, now Duke of Hamilton. 
 
DESCRIPTION 
 
 OP 
 
 HOLYROODHOUSE. 
 
 rjpHE present Palace is situated on the east side of a large 
 area which formed the western court of the old Palace, and 
 is of a quadrangular form, with an open court in the centre, 94 
 feet square. The north, east, and south sides of this court are 
 each three storeys high, besides an attic or garret storey. 
 The west side is only two storeys, with a flat roof and double 
 ballustrade. The low building contains the main entrance 
 into the Palace, and connects two large castellated square 
 towers of four storeys each. These towers have each three 
 circular turrets at their exterior angles, rising from the 
 ground to the battlements, above which they are finished 
 with pinnacle roofs and gilt balls. The fourth angle of each 
 great tower is concealed by the other parts of the buildings 
 which surround the inner court, and unite with the eastern 
 walls of these towers respectively. On a square compart- 
 ment in the outside of the north-west turret of the northern 
 great tower (already mentioned as the house built by James 
 V.) is the following inscription, viz. — 
 
 " JAC. REX V. SCOTORUM." 
 The southern great tower is of later construction, and mani- 
 festly built to correspond with the northern one. The 
 whole of this western front, including the two castellated 
 towers, extends 230 feet ; but in consequence of these towers 
 forming two projecting wings to the modern Palace, which 
 is in the Greek or Roman taste, it appears of a mixed archi- 
 tecturci. The entrance, as before mentioned, is in the centre 
 of this low building, and ornamented by four doric columns 
 affixed to the wall, with a corresponding entablature ; over 
 
94 
 
 which is an open pediment, surmounted by an octagonal 
 copula containing a clock. This copula is formed hy 
 eight small arches, and Corinthian pillars between them, 
 which support a roof in the form of an Imperial Crown. 
 Immediately over the door is the Royal Arms of Scot- 
 land cut in stone. Those borne since the union with 
 England, are placed in a large triangular pediment over 
 the central division of the east side of the inner Court. 
 Passing through this west door, we enter a piazza which 
 surrounds the inner court, and to which it presents on each 
 side nine small arches, with fluted doric pillasters between 
 each, and over them a corresponding entablature, which is 
 continued round the building, having the Thistle, and the 
 Scottish Crown, Sword, and Sceptre, placed alternately in the 
 frize. And though the interior elevation of the Court by 
 the introduction of three orders, viz. the Ionic and the 
 Corinthian respectively over the Doric, has rendered the parts 
 minutely small, yet the outlines being free of unnecessary 
 projections and recesses, and the two upper rows of windows 
 being large and plain, the whole exhibits an unusual correct- 
 ness and simplicity. 
 
 At the north-west angle, and towards the inside of the 
 piazza, this inscription is cut into one of the stone piers of 
 the arches, " FYN. BE. RO. MYLNE. MM. IVL. 
 " 1671.*" Farther on at the eastern extremity of the north 
 side of the piazza, is a passage leading from the Palace into 
 the Royal Chapel. Two scale stairs, or French flyers, are 
 placed at the north-east and south east corners of the piazza, 
 and lead to the upper floors of the building. 
 
 At the south-west angle of the piazza, is a great hanging 
 stair-case, about 24 feet square, which leads to the royal apart- 
 ments. Eastward of this stair, at the middle of the south 
 side, there is a passage through the buildings, which conducts 
 from the piazza to the park, where the Palace presents an 
 extensive front towards the east of three storeys, with 17 
 windows in each, divided from one another by pilasters of the 
 Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders, corresponding to those 
 of the inner court ; and their respective entablatures being 
 continued along the whole front, without a break, produces 
 
95 
 
 an agreeable effect. The roof is after the French fashion, 
 high and concave. The north and south sides of the Palace 
 contains nothing remarkable. 
 
 In giving some account of the internal accommodation of 
 this Palace, we begin with the original dwelling-house built 
 by James V. which enters from thp north side of the piazza, 
 and which, with a part of the west front, is appropriated as 
 the residence of his Grace the Duke of Hamilton, the here- 
 ditary keeper of the palace. A large scale-stair conducts to 
 a suit of rooms in the taste of the 16th century, rendered 
 the more interesting from their having been occupied by the 
 unfortunate Queen Mary, and still containing some articles 
 which belonged to her. The furniture is chiefly ancient, 
 and said to be the sanie used in the time of that Princess. 
 A state-bed is shewn, in which the chevalier Charles, and 
 afterwards the Duke of Cumberland slept in 1745 ; a set of 
 chairs, covered with crimson velvet, and highly ornamented 
 with cornets on their backs ; and a bed of Mary^'s, which is 
 of crimson damask, bordered with green stalk tassels and 
 fringes, and is now almost in tatters. The cornice of the 
 bed is of open figured work in the present taste, but more 
 light in the execution than any modern one. Close to the 
 floor in this room, is a small opening in the wall, which leads 
 to a passage by a trap stair, communicating with the apart- 
 ments beneath. Through this passage Lord Darnley and 
 the other conspirators rushed in to murder David Rizzio.* 
 The Queen was then supping with the Countess of Argyle 
 in a closet off the bed-chamber, about 12 feet square, in the 
 north-west turret of the present north-west tower of the Pa- 
 lace, and Hizzio was in attendance. He was dragged out 
 of the closet through the bed-chamber, into the chamber of 
 presence, and cruelly murdered.^ 
 
 • Robertson's Hist, of Scot. App. No. 15 to Vol. I. 
 
 f Towards the outer door of this apartment, on the floor of a passage which 
 was formerly part of the room, there are large dusky spots, said to have been 
 occasioned by Rizzio's blood staining the floor, which no washing of the boards 
 'has been able to deface. He was slain upon the 9th of March 1565-6. 
 
96 
 
 The armour of Henry Darnley, and James VI. is shewn 
 in the room from which Rizzio was dragged out to be mur- 
 dered. The Queen's dressing-box is also shewn. The 
 roof of the Queen'*s bed-room is divided into compartments, 
 charged with the armorial device of some one of the blood- 
 royal of Scotland ; and the walls are hung round with ta- 
 pestry, of which the subjects are taken from Ovid's Me- 
 tamorphoses. 
 
 In this suit of apartments there are some very good pic- 
 tures. In the first flat, a full length of a tall youth, with his 
 hat on a table. It is said to be that of Henry D^rnlej/, af- 
 terwards King Henry ; but from the countenance it rather 
 appears to be Henri/ Prince of Wales. Vide Grainger''s Bior 
 ^raphi/, p. 313. 
 
 The Duke bf Lennox- 
 View of the city of Venice. 
 
 Queen Mary in the dress she suffered in at Fortheringay. 
 The Countess of Cassils. 
 Charles II. 
 
 A head of Cardinal Beaton^ black hair, smooth face, a red 
 calbet. 
 
 -—An ambitious, cruel, and licentious pariest, so regardless of decency, 
 that he publicly married one of his six natural daughters to the Master 
 of Crawfordy owned her for his ^laughter, and gave with her (in those 
 days) the vast fortune of 4000 merks Scots, or £222 : 4 : 5| sterlijig. 
 
 A stern half leagth <^ John Knox writing. 
 William and Mary of England. 
 Mary of Guise. 
 The Regent Murray. 
 
 Mary Stuart, aged about 15, a half length, strai^t an(| 
 slender, large brocade sleeves, small ruff, auburn hair. 
 
 Eleventh Duke of Hamilton, beheaded A. D. 1649. 
 
 The battles of Constantine represented on tapestry. 
 
 A head of James IV. in black, with ermine; the hair lank 
 and short. From the great resemblance to Henry VIL on# 
 
97 
 
 is apt to think it is the portrait of James V. who was de-» 
 
 scended from the daughter of Henry. 
 
 Lord John Belasi/s, in a red doublet and hashed sleeves, 
 young and handsome, son of Lord Fauconberg, 
 
 A person, says the noble historian, (Lord Clarendon,) of exemplary 
 industry and courage, who raised six regiments for the king's service, 
 and behaved with great spirit in several engagements. At length 
 being made commander in chief of the forces in Yorkshire, at the battle 
 of Selby, sunk beneath the superior fortune of Sir Thomas Fairfax, and 
 was by him taken prisoner. He received great honours at the Restorar 
 tion, and lived till A. D. 1689. 
 
 James VI. 
 
 Philip II. of Spain, in armour, 
 
 UP STAIRS. 
 The Battle of the Boyne. 
 Jane Shore. 
 Henry VIII. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth. — And a number of others. 
 
 These apartments communicate on the east side with the 
 picture gallery, which is a spacious apartment, about 150 
 feet in length, 24 in breadth, and nearly 20 in height. It 
 occupies the whole length of the first floor over the piazza, 
 on the north side of the court, with which it communicates 
 by the scale stair at the north-east angle of the piazza. This 
 gallery is lighted by twelve windows, three of which are at 
 the east end, and nine on the south side. In consequence 
 of its main light being thus from the inner court, it possesses 
 that dark and solemn appearance, in which grandeur and 
 dignity are made so remarkably to harrponize. This noble 
 room is adorned with one hundred and eleven pictures of the 
 Kings of Scotland, from the reputed time of Fergus I. down 
 to the time of the revolution. Few or none are genuine, 
 although some may be copied from originals ; and it is said, 
 that a Dutch artist, named De Wit, was employed to make 
 
98 
 
 the collection.* These portraits were all hacked and slash- 
 ed, and many large pieces cut out of many of them by Ge- 
 neral Hawley's troops, ^vhen quartered in it after the defeat 
 of the king's troops at Falkirk in 1745, — and who appear to 
 Lave thought, that they could not better manifest their loyal- 
 ty to King George, tlian by defacing or destroying every re- 
 presentation of the Scottish monarchs. These pictures, after 
 being repaired several years since, were removed from their 
 original hanging frames, and fixed into the pannels of the 
 wainscoating, where they now remain, and produce a very 
 pleasing effect. This gallery is now used at the election of 
 the 16 peers, who represent the Scottish nobility in the 
 British Parliament ; and, during the residence of the princes 
 of the House of Bourbon, and the French Noblesse, Mass 
 was publicly and regularly celebrated in it by the French 
 priests, without any opposition, either from the clergy or in- 
 habitants of Edinburgh. This gallery originally communi- 
 cated with the Royal Chapel, which joins it on the north- 
 east, as it still does on the south-east, with the state apart- 
 ments built by Charles II. These apartments surround 
 the remainder of the Court on the first floor, and contain 
 several large public rooms wainscoated with oak. The 
 festoons of flowers and foliage over the doors and mantle- 
 pieces are well executed; but the stucco ornaments of the 
 roofs, (similar to all those of that period,) are rather heavy. 
 The Duke d'Artois, during his residence here, occupied the 
 rooms belonging to this suit, on the east and south sides of the 
 Palace. These are possessed at present by the family of 
 Major Nairne, inspector-general of barracks for Scotland. 
 Immediately above the Boyal apartments, and in the northern 
 division of the upper flat of the buildings, are the apartments 
 assigned to the Duke of Argyle. The southern division of 
 this floor, with the apartments immediately adjoining on 
 the south side of the quadrangle, are occupied by the Earl 
 of Breadalbane. Here are some good rooms, ornamented 
 with fine paintings, particularly, 
 
 * Brewster's Encyclopaedia, Art. Edinburgh. 
 
99 
 
 Henrietta, Queen of Charles I. with her family, (Charles 
 II. tlames Duke of York, and the Princess Anne), around 
 her : Charles's portrait hanging in the corner of the room 
 where they are represented sitting. 
 
 The battle of Alexander and Darius, represented upon 
 Gobeline tapestry, very fine. 
 
 The Duke and Duchess of Lauderdale. 
 
 Mary, Countess of Breadalbane. 
 
 William, Duke of Newcastle. 
 
 Lady Isabella Rich, daughter of Henry, Earl of Holland. 
 Duke of Buckingham, assassinated by Felton. 
 Duchess of Albermarle. 
 Countess of Kildare. 
 Edward, Earl of Jersey. 
 
 Various landscapes representing views taken from his 
 Lordship's seat at Taymouth, 
 
 The Royal Family of Denmark, 1727. 
 The head of a Satyr, fine. 
 
 The south-west tower, and apartments immediately ad- 
 joining it, contain several very lofty rooms designed for levees, 
 &c. and entering from the large hanging stair at the south- 
 west angle of the piazza. These are now occupied by the 
 Hon. Thomas Bowes, brother to the Earl of Strathmore, in 
 right of his wife, formerly Lady Campbell of Ardkinlass. 
 
 Returning to the north side of the court, we come to Lord 
 Dunmore's lodgings, which enter from the piazza, and ex- 
 tend along the north side of the large picture gallery, having 
 the Duke of Hamilton's on the west, and the Chapel Royal 
 on the east. These apartments are presently occupied by 
 Lady Elizabeth Murray, and contain a picture of Charles L 
 and his Queen going a hunting, with the sky showering 
 roses on them, erroneously attributed to Vandyke, but really 
 painted by Mi/tons. * The Queen is painted with a love-lock, 
 and with brown hair and complexion, and younger than any 
 of her portraits generally are. A black stands by them, 
 holding a grey horse, and the celebrated dwarf JeflTrey 
 
 * Walpole's Anecdotes of Painting, Vol. II. page 15. 
 
 2 
 
100 
 
 Hudson, holding a spaniel in a string. Several other dOgs 
 are seen sporting around. 
 
 The little Hero in this piece underwent a life of vast variety. He 
 was born the son of a labourer at Oakham in 1619. At seven years of 
 age he was not 18 inches in height ; at which time he was taken into 
 the service of the Duke of Buckingham at Burleigh on the Hill, and 
 had there the honour of being served up to table in a cold pye, to sur- 
 prise the court then on a progress. On the marriage of Charles I. he 
 was promoted to the service of Henrietta ; and was even so far trusted 
 as to be sent over to France to bring her Majesty's midwife. In his 
 passage he was taken by a pirate and carried into Dunkirk. His cap- 
 tivity gave rise to the Jeffrddos, a mock heroic poem by Sir WilUam 
 Davenani, on his duel at that part with a turkey-cock. His diminu- 
 tive size did not prevent him from acting in a military capacity ; for 
 during the civil wars he served as a captain of horse. In following the 
 fortunes of his mistress into France, A. D. 1644, he unluckily engaged 
 in a quarrel with Mr Crofts, who, on a duel being agreed on, came 
 into the field armed only with a squirt. A second meeting was ap- 
 pointed on horseback, when Jeffrey killed his antagonist at the first fire. 
 For this he was expelled the court. He went to sea, and was taken by 
 a Sake rover^ and sold into Barbary. On his release he was made a 
 captain in the Royal Navy ; and on the final retreat of Henrietta at- 
 tended her to France, and remained there till the Restoration. In 1682' 
 this little creature was made of that importance, as to be supposed con- 
 cerned in the Popish ploU and was committed to the Gatehouse, where 
 he ended his life, aged 63 years, passed with all the consequential ac- 
 tivity of a Lilliputian hero/. 
 
 Formerly, the Keeper of the Palace had his residence over 
 the western porch of the old Abbey, being the entrance that 
 led from the city into the western, or outer court of the 
 Palace. This porch, which consisted of several pointed 
 arches, was flanked with turrets that rose to a considerable 
 height, and had a good effect when viewed from the east side 
 of the outer court. A view of this porch, taken at the time 
 of its demolition, A. D. 1755, is given in plate 6. -f* 
 
 • Fullerton's Rut. page 105. 
 •|- A few doggerel verses were made upon this event by an anonymous writ- 
 ter, under the signature of Claudero, of which these are a specimen : 
 
 Adieu Edina, now adieu, I Edina echoed then aloud, 
 
 Fair Scotia's glory's gone. | And bade a long farewell ; 
 
 This said, she bow'd her ancient head, | The Calton Hill and Arthur Seat 
 
 And gave the final groan. | Did ring her parting knell. 
 
101 
 
 ROYAL GARDENS. 
 
 To the north-east of this porch is the King's Garden, con-* 
 taining about an acre and a half. The south wall of this gar- 
 den forms the northern boundary of the great western court 
 of the Palace. The original door-piece still remains in the 
 centre of this wall, ornamented with the royal arms of Scot- 
 land, and other devices. In the centre of this garden is a 
 beautiful fancy Horologe of stone, fixed to a pedestal which 
 is placed upon the top of three octogonal steps. The Horo- 
 loge contains a variety of Dials, placed in circular and semi- 
 circular cavities ; but several of the gnomons are now broke 
 off. The intervening spaces between the dials are carved 
 with various devices, among which the royal arms of Scot- 
 land, with the initials " C. R." St Andrew and his Cross, St 
 George and the Dragon, the Thistle, Rose, Fleur-de-lis, 
 Harp, &c. are still in tolerable preservation. This garden, 
 which, with James V.'s apartments, belongs to the heritable 
 keeper of the Palace, is bounded towards the east by a square 
 grass field, on the north side of the Palace, known by the 
 name of the Artillery Park ; on the north by the street call- 
 ed the Abbey Hill; on the west, by a number of private 
 dwelling houses within the precincts of the Sanctuary ; and 
 on the south, by the great western or outer court of the Pa- 
 lace. There are also several other gardens of various di- 
 mensions on the south side of the Palace, belonging to the 
 Duke of Hamilton, Earl of Haddington, and others, as deli- 
 neated on the accompanying plan of the Sanctuary. These 
 gardens are generally under leases to tenants. 
 
ENVIRONS OF THE PALACE, 
 
 INCLUDING THE 
 
 SANCTUARY FOR INSOLVENT DEBTORS. 
 
 Adjoining to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, upon the east, 
 south, and south-west, there is an extensive park, which was 
 first inclosed by King James V. with a high stone wall. It 
 embraces a circuit of about four miles and a quarter, and 
 formed the ancient Sanctuary for the protection of crimi- 
 nals, that was attached as a " City of Refuge," to the Ab- 
 bey of Sancta Crucis. The whole of this park still affords an 
 asylum to insolvent debtors, whose persons dare not be 
 seized at the instance of their creditors, so long as they re- 
 side within its precincts. 
 
 The spacious range " is of a very singular nature to be 
 in the immediate vicinity of a populous city, being little 
 else than an assemblage of hills, rocks, precipices, mo- 
 rasses, and lakes.'"* It includes the hills of Arthur's Seat 
 and Salisbury Crags,* which are separated from each other 
 by a deep valley, in the bottom of which is a morass. Ar- 
 thur's Seat is the largest of these hills, and rises into several 
 tops, which are particularly delineated on the accompanying 
 plan. The highest of these tops, 0T\Arthur'sSeat proper, over- 
 looks Salisbury Crags, and is a beautiful hill of a conical 
 
 * Some with Maitland think, that the name o^ Arthur's Seat is a corruption 
 of the Gaelic AwD-m A- SAID t which implies the height of arrows; " For no 
 
 spot," says he, " is fitter for the exercise of archery, either at butts or 
 *' rovers, than this ; wherefore Ard-na-said, by an easy transition, might well 
 " be changed into Arthur^s Seat." While others, with Arnot, strenuously 
 maintain, and on the authority of Whitaker's History, (Vol. II. p. 51.) that 
 Arthur's Seat is so denominated " from Arthur the British Prince, who, in the 
 •* end of the sixth century defeated the Saxons in that neighbourhood and 
 that Salisbury Crags '* take their name from the Earl of Salisbury, who, in 
 «* the reign of Edward III. accompanied that Prince In an expedition against 
 ** the Scots. What makes the latter of these the ;.more probable is, that in 
 
 old authors the name of these hills is indifferently spelled Salisbury and 
 " Sarezhury ; so also is" the name of that Earl." 
 
 A 
 
103 
 
 form, rising gradually on the side next the Palace, accord- 
 ing to a late measurement, to the height of 822 feet above 
 the level of the sea. Salisbury Crags form the western 
 extremity of the lower hill, which is situated immediately 
 under the rocky top of Arthur's Seat. They present a semi- 
 circular body of rocks and precipices, the summit of which is 
 easily reached at the south and north extremities by a gentle 
 acclivity, and affords a good panoramic view of the city 
 of Edinburgh and suburbs. But " immediately upon de- 
 scending eastward into the valley, the view of Edinburgh is 
 totally lost ; the imperial prospect of the city and castle, 
 which these rocks in a manner overhang, is intercepted by 
 Salisbury Crags. Seldom are human beings to be met in 
 this lonely vale, or any creatures to be seen, but the sheep 
 feeding on the mountain, and the hawks and ravens winging 
 their flight among the rocks." * Both hills, when viewed at 
 a little distance to the west and north-west, bear a consider- 
 able resemblance to a Lion Couchant, or the head and back 
 of a Camel. 
 
 Great basaltic columns, from 40 to 50 feet in length, and 
 about three feet in diameter, regularly pentagonal or hexa- 
 gonal, hang down the face of the cliffs to the south, with a 
 gentle slope, and are vulgarly called Samson's Ribs. To 
 the east of this stratum is a quarry of whinstone ; — and to 
 the south, several springs of water, called the Wells of 
 VVearie. Considerable quantities of stone from these rocks 
 were formerly cut and sent to London for paving the streets ; 
 its great hardness rendering it excellent for that purpose. 
 Among these rocks are rich ores and spar, with a great 
 variety of rock plants, which afford an excellent field to 
 the enlightened gentleman and naturalist. Amethysts and 
 other precious stones have been occasionally found among 
 them* Beneath and around these hills are some beautiful 
 walks, which afford an easy and romantic retreat, both 
 to the citizen after the bustle of public life, and to the 
 student in his hours of leisure or relaxation; all of which 
 are within the range of the park or sanctuary. There is also 
 
 • Arnot*s History of Edinburgh. 
 
104 
 
 a very fine echo that distinctly reiterates the voice three 
 times. At the front of one of those disjointed rocks that 
 extend along the south-west corner of the park, is one near 
 to where the Powder Magazine was lately erected, called the 
 Echoing Rock, and is the favourite resort of the lover and 
 the musician in the calm of a summer evening. Thence, 
 when all nature is in unison around, the tones of the bugle 
 or flute are frequently heard softly swelling, and blending 
 into a variety of soothing sounds. 
 
 Near this rock, one of the public walks stretches under 
 the Basaltic columns to the church and village of Dudding- 
 ston, situated on the south-eastern declivity of Arthur's Seat, 
 at the margin of a small fresh water lake called Dudding- 
 stone Loch, belonging to the Earl of Abercorn. Beyond it 
 are seen his Lordship's elegant Mansion of Duddingstone- 
 Hall, surrounded by a beautiful park in the modern taste. 
 
 North-west from Duddingstone, and at the foot of the 
 opposite, or north side of the hill, is a level strip of ground, 
 which, from the Duke of York having delighted to walk 
 " in it, bears the name of the Duke'^s Walk."''* Concerninor 
 which, Arnot observes in 1779, that in the memory of people 
 then " recently deceased, this walk was covered with tall 
 oaks. But now there is hardly a single tree (of any 
 considerable size) in its whole boundaries. Indeed it is 
 extremely doubtful, if, except at the bottom, there were 
 ever any trees on these hills, the height of the ground, 
 and the barrenness of the soil being very unfavourable 
 " for their growth.'' A little towards the south of this 
 wralk, and upon the northern acclivity of Arthur's seat, nearly 
 a quarter of a mile from the Palace, stand the ruins of 
 
 ST ANTHONY'S CHAPEL, AND HERMITAGE, 
 once the resort of numerous votaries. 
 
 The area of the Chapel was 43^ feet in length, 18 in 
 
 • At the east end of this walk, sacred to love and meditation, there was a 
 cairn, or monumental erection of loose stones (now removed,) reared over the 
 id spot where a wretch, one Nicol Muchet, had murdered his wife, A. D. 1720, 
 and lately introduced with much effect, as the scene of an interesting meeting 
 in the popular Novel of " The Heart of Mid-Lothian," in the second series of 
 " The Tales of My Landlord.*' 
 
105 
 
 breadth, and had a handsome gothic roof of the same height, 
 consisting of three arches, which are now fallen down. On 
 the west, was a large tower, 19 feet square, and 40 feet in 
 height. In the south wall near the altar is a small nitch for 
 holding the pix, and another for the holy water. The her- 
 mitage stood at the foot of the rock on which the chapel was 
 founded, and though in the neighbourhood of a populous 
 city, had every characteristic of a place of this nature. 
 It was about 16 feet in length, by 12 feet 8 inches in breadth, 
 and 11 feet in height. Both Hermitage and Chapel belong- 
 ed to the monastery of St Anthony at South-Leith, which is 
 two miles distant towards the north. Upon the common seal 
 of this convent, preserved in the Advocate's Library, is the fi- 
 gure of St Anthony,* in a hermifs mantle, with a book in one 
 hand, and a staff in the other ; and at his foot a sow, with a 
 bell about its neck. Over his head is a capital T. and round 
 the seal is this inscription, " S. COMMVNE PRECEP- 
 « TORI.E SANCTI ANTHONII PROPE LEICHT.^' 
 These canons followed the rule of St Augustine, and wore a 
 black gown with a blue cross, in form of the letter T, upon 
 their left breast. The only mark of distinction between 
 them and the cannons regular was, that they wore neither an 
 almuce nor a rochet^ which the regulars and bishops made use 
 of.t 
 
 At the foot of the rock is a fine spring, celebrated in a 
 beautiful pathetic old ballad, founded on the amours of some 
 courtly dame and false gallant, when royality inhabited the 
 neighbouring Palace, as follows : — 
 
 Oh ! Arthur''s Seat shall be my bed, 
 The sheets sail ne'er be fyled by me, 
 St Anton's well shall be my drink, 
 Syn my fause luve's forsaken me. 
 
 * St Anthony was a Monk of great celebrity, who lived in the 4th centUfy, 
 and is reckoned the Father of the monastic life. 
 *)* Keith's account of Religious houses, cap. 3. 
 
 o % 
 
106 
 
 From this well a foot path, accurately delineated on the 
 accompanying map of the Sanctuary, leads to the summit of 
 Arthur''s Seat, whence an extensive view is obtained in every 
 direction, which amply recompences the labour of ascending. 
 To the west is seen the neighbouring city and extended 
 royalty of Edinburgh, with the suburbs, and the adjoining 
 districts of the county; and beyond them, part of the counties 
 of Linlithgow, Stirling, Dumbarton, Perth, and Clackniannan, 
 while the vast rocks of Salisbury Crags appear spread out 
 underneath. To the northward, the Calton Hill, with its 
 public buildings and monuments; the new London road 
 stretching along its southern bank from the Regent's Bridge, 
 which connects it with the city at Princes Street on the west, 
 till it joins the old road from the Canongate on the east, near 
 Jock's Lodge, a village at the north-east declivity of Arthur's 
 Seat. Beyond this line of road, is seen the flourishing town 
 and port of Leith, the Firth and navigation of the Forth, 
 the opposite coast of Fifeshire from Queensferry to Crail ; and 
 part of the counties of Kinross, Perth, and Angus, in the dis- 
 tance. Eastward is Piershill barracks for cavalry, the ruin- 
 ous kirk and village of Restalrig, the thriving village of Por- 
 tobello, (much resorted to for sea-bathing ;) and, farther on, 
 the town and bay of Musselburgh, with a number of villages 
 skirting its shores. Across this bay is seen on its eastern 
 beach, the splendid modern mansion of Gosford, built by the 
 late Earl of Wemyss ; and, behind it, North-Berwick-Law 
 appears rising like a vast cone, from the waters of the Forth. 
 Turning southward, the country around Musselburgh and 
 Dalkeith, &c. presents itself Here Inveresk church and 
 spire, Craigmillar-castle, Libberton-kirk and tower, Black- 
 ford, Braid, and Pentland Hills, are striking objects ; while 
 the park of Duddingstone-hall, the village and loch of that 
 name, with the house and inclosures of Prestonfield, (the 
 seat of Sir Robert Keith Dick, Baronet,) appear spread out 
 from the base. Several of the southern counties are 
 partially observed in the back ground. 
 
 Descending from the summit towards Holyroodhouse, by 
 
107 
 
 St Anthony's well, we enter through a style at the west end 
 of the Duke's Walk, into 
 
 St ANNE'S YARDS, 
 
 Which is a large grass inclosed field, immediately to the east 
 of the Palace. Maitland observes, that " various are the 
 
 opinions concerning the appellation of that inclosure, 
 
 some deriving it from the vicinal hermitage of St An- 
 " thony ; but, as there is said to have been a chapel adjoining 
 
 to the Abbot's house in the said yards, the vestigia where- 
 " of are still (in 1753,) to be seen, a little be-east the bow- 
 " ling green wall,* belonging to the Palace, I think 'tis more 
 " probable that this inclosure received its name from the 
 " Chapel, which we may presume was dedicated to St Anne." 
 
 At the north side of St Anne's Yards in a small street called 
 Craftangrie, is an old house, in the taste of the 16th century, 
 said to have been the residence of the Regent Murray. This 
 house and adjoining garden, now the property of Mr Gavin, 
 engraver, were gifted alongst with several of the adjoining 
 properties, by James VI. to a favourite servant of the name 
 of French. 
 
 At the foot of the Canongate, and towards the north-west 
 of the grand entrance of the Abbey, formerly stood 
 
 The GIRTH CROSS, 
 
 So denominated from its being the western extremity of the 
 Sanctuary. It originally consisted of three steps, the case, 
 and the shaft, surmounted by a cross patee* It was taken 
 down when the gutter was made at the boundary of the Sanc- 
 tuary on the west side, but its scite can still be pointed out 
 on the pavement.-|- 
 
 * The spot here alluded to by Maitland, corresponds to the site of the Chap- 
 ter-house, Treasury, small Cloister, and Abbot's house, as mentioned in the 
 general account of an Abbey, in pages 75 and 76. 
 
 ■f All sanctuaries were formerly denominated garths ; and a cross, erect- 
 ed upon the extreme verge of the consecrated spot, which was always done, 
 was held as sacred ; and if the person pursued touched this palladium before 
 his pursuers overtook him, he was received with shouts of triumph into the 
 " City of Refuged 
 
THE 
 
 BOUNDARIES OF THE SANCTUARY. 
 
 From the Watergate, a few yards to the north-east of the 
 Girth Cross, it runs southward across the principal street by 
 the strand or gutter at the foot of the Canongate, passes 
 through the centre of the Horse wynd, and keeps in the same 
 direction, till it reaches the meadow ground at the foot of 
 Salisbury Crags, taking in the lane to the west of Millar's 
 garden ; then turning westward, it follows the course of the 
 wall which bounds that meadow on the north and west, till it 
 comes to St Leonard's Hill, to the west of Salisbury Crags ; 
 bending to the south, it runs along the east side of the road 
 called Dumhie Dijkes, and over the top of the ridge of St Leon- 
 ard's Hill ; when, taking a sweep to the south-east, it passes 
 Gibraltar House, the gate and style at the shepherd's house, 
 and along by the boundary of Prestonfield park to the Wells 
 ofWearie, at the foot of the basaltic columns, which overhang 
 the footpath leading to Duddingston, and runs nearly due 
 east till it joins Duddingston Loch; then bending to the 
 northward, it encircles the loch about halfway, till it reach- 
 es the projecting wall of the Minister's Glebe, where it turns 
 suddenly to the north, and passing the tirless, or style, leading 
 to the village of Duddingston, pursues its course up the hill 
 till it reaches the plantation on the east side of Arthur's-Seat; 
 then, inclining to the north-west, it passes on to the style at 
 the Watering Stone, opposite to the west gate of Parson's 
 Green. Winding then to the westward, along the north side 
 of the Duke's-Walk, it comes to the style in the King's Park- 
 wall ; where, turning northward, it runs on till it joins a row 
 of large elm trees, which it follows in a north-easterly di- 
 
109 
 
 rection to the Clockmill-House ; then, turning westward, it 
 continues its course by the wall of the Physic Garden, to the 
 north gate of the King's Park, at Craftangrie, and along by 
 the wall on the north-side of the Abbey-Church-yard, till it 
 reaches the Artillery Park, which it bounds on the east and 
 north sides ; then, passing along by the north-west wall of the 
 King's Garden, and the houses on the south side of the Ab~ 
 ley Hill, it reaches the Watergate, including within its pre- 
 cincts the whole of the extensive hills of Arthur s Seat and 
 Salisbury Crags, with the romantic vallies which lie between 
 and around them, as more particularly delineated by the 
 dotted lines on the accompanying plan. 
 
 The privilege of this Sanctuary is strictly limited to civil 
 debts. No protection is afforded for breaches of the peace, 
 or crimes of any description. There are accordingly a num- 
 ber of persons either insolvent, or who have experienced 
 sudden reverses of fortune, which they hope to retrieve, con- 
 stantly resident in the houses within the boundary. A juris- 
 diction is exercised over them ; a court held within the pre- 
 cincts, by a person denominated, " Bailie of the Abbey,"*' who 
 is always appointed from some of the law departments. There 
 is also a prison pertaining to the Abbey in which they may 
 be confined for debts contracted there, or offences committed 
 against the inhabitants. 
 
 iVofe. — St Anne's Yards and the King's Gardens are enjoyed by His Grace 
 the Duke of Hamilton, &c. as the heritable keeper of the Palace ; and Arthur's 
 Seat, King's Park, and Meadows, by the Right Hon. the Earl of Haddington. 
 
110 
 
 OFFICERS OF THE CHAPEL ROYAL, 
 1819. 
 
 Almoner^ Rev. John Paton, minister of Lasswade, 
 
 Deputy, Mr Robert Paton, Writer in Edinburgh. 
 
 Dean of the Chapel Royal, Rev. Dr William Laurence 
 Brown, Principal and Professor of Divinity in Marischall 
 College, and one of the ministers of Aberdeen. 
 
 Deans, Rev. Dr George Hill, Principal of St Marj's Col- 
 lege, and one of the ministers of St Andrews ; Rev. Dr 
 Robert Muter, minister of Kirkcudbright ; and Rev. Dr John 
 Inglis, one of the ministers of Edinburgh. 
 
 Chaiplains in Ordinary, The Rev. Drs Thomas Sommer- 
 ville of Jedburgh ; David Johnston of North Leith ; A. Flem- 
 ing of Hamilton ; J. M'Kenzie, of Port Patrick ; William 
 Taylor, jun. of Glasgow ; and Duncan M'Farlane of Drymen, 
 
 Beadky Mr James Bland. Deputy, Mr John Petrie. 
 
 KEEPERS, &c. 
 
 OF THE 
 
 PALACE AND SANCTUARY, 
 1819- 
 
 Heritable Keeper of the Palace, — His Grace Alexander, 
 Duke of Hamilton and Brandon, &c. 
 Deputy, — John M'Queen, Esq. 
 Bailie, — John Dickie, Esq, 
 Clerk, — Mr John Somerville. 
 
 Constables, — Messrs John Miller and David Wemyss, 
 Officers of Court, — Andrew and John Petrie. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 [N. B. The letter N. before the numbers of the Pages in the following Index, 
 
 denotes that reference is made to the Foot Notes.] 
 
 Abbet/f general description of an, 
 page 74. — Abbey of Santa Crucisy 
 or Holyrood, founded by David 
 
 I. p. 9 Charter of erection, 
 
 1128, p. 11 National Council 
 
 held in, A. D. 1177, p. 16— Il- 
 lustrious inmates of, from 1160 
 to 1381, p. 17 — Destroyed and 
 plundered, 1332 and 1385, p. 17. 
 —Choir and transept of the 
 church destroyed, 1544, p. 18. 
 — Pillaged by Duke of Somerset's 
 army, 1547, p. 19.— Fate of, at 
 Reformation, p. 25 — Revenues 
 at the dissolution, p. 27 — Supe- 
 riority of Canongate, &c. belong- 
 ing to, disponed to Earl of Rox- 
 burgh, and afterwards to City of 
 Edinburgh, p. 27 — Annexed to 
 Bishoprickof Edinburgh by Char- 
 les I. 1633, p. 28 Stood on the 
 
 site of the present Palace, p. 76. 
 — Originally a City of Refuge" 
 to criminals, p. 102. — Porch of, 
 taken down 1755, p. 100. 
 
 Abbot Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney, 
 
 p. 35, 58 Crawfurd, p. 17, 35, 
 
 63, 79 .Of Holyrood's Court, 
 
 same as Bishop of St Andrew's, 
 p. 14. 
 
 Airtkf Church of, and lands, &c. 
 granted to the Canons of Holy- 
 rood, 12. 
 
 Alexander III. Pope, 17. 
 
 Altar, private, connected with St Tho- 
 mas's Hospital, 21, 
 
 Altars, private, in the Abbey Church, 
 and their origin, p. 20. 
 
 Alms-men and chaplain of St Thomas's 
 Hospital, rules for them, p. 24. 
 
 Arcades, JVorman, on basement storey 
 of the Church, p. 80, 83. 
 
 Architecture of the Abbey Church, point- 
 ed, p. 78 — Remains of Norman, 
 p. 78, 79, 80 Dallaway's obser- 
 vations on, p. 79 — iVIarks of 
 change from the circular to the 
 
 pointed style of, p. 79 Of the 
 
 Royal Palace, of mixed style, p. 
 93 — Chiefly in the Grecian and 
 Roman taste, p. 93, 94, 
 
 Argyle's apartments, Duke of, p. 92. 98. 
 — Jane, Countess of, buried in 
 royal vaults, p. 57. 
 
 AvTns of Abbot Crawfurd, p. 79. — Vis- 
 countess Belhaven, and of Vis- 
 count Belhaven, p. 38, 39.— Bi- 
 shop George Wishart, p. 46. — 
 Earl of Sutherland, p. 49. 
 
 ArnoCs History used as general autho- 
 rity ; Introdn. p. 8. ; Reflections 
 on the ruins of the Chapel Royal, 
 p. 31. — Opinion anent the names 
 of Arthur Seat and Salisbury 
 Crags, N. p. 102. 
 
 Arthur, Prince, third son of James IV. 
 buried in the Abbey, p. 55. 
 
 Arthur Duke of Albany, buried in the 
 royal vault, 57. 
 
 Arthur Seat and Salisbury Crags, p. 
 102. — View from the summit, 106. 
 
 Artillery Park, 101. 
 
112 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Bailie of the Abbey, or Sanctuary of 
 
 Holyrood, . 109 
 
 JBaliol^ Edward, held his Parliament 
 
 in Holyrood Abbey, . 86 
 
 Basaltic Columns, . 103 
 
 Belhaveny Lady and Viscounty their 
 
 Monuments, . 38, 39 
 
 Bells, Account of tolling, by Bede, 
 
 N. 23 Of the Chapel Royal, N. 82. 
 
 Berwick, house in, granted to the 
 
 Canons, . . 13 
 
 Births, Royal, in Holyroodhouse, 
 
 86, 89 
 
 Blantyre Priory, . 33 
 
 Blue Blanket, origin of, N. 20. 
 
 Bothwell, Abbot and Commendator 
 of Holyrood, and Bishop of Ork- 
 ney and Shetland, . 35 
 Books, List of, used as authorities 
 in framing the preceding account 
 of Holyrood Abbey and Palace, 
 
 Introduc. 8 
 Bothwell, Adam, Abbot and Com- 
 mendator, account of, p. 3 ; his 
 epitaph, 58. -John, his son, creat- 
 ed Lord Holyrooodhouse, 27 — 
 Sold St Ninian's Chapel, &c. to 
 the inhabitants of North Leith, 
 27, 28 — Earl of, married to 
 Queen Mary, . N. 35, 88 
 
 Boundaries of the Sanctuary, 108 
 Bovate of Land, . N. 12 
 
 Bowes'' Hon. Thomas, apartments, 99 
 Breadalbane''s, Earl of, apartments 
 in the Palace, 92. 98. — Paintings 
 there, . . 99 
 
 Broughton, town of, granted to the 
 
 Canons, . . 12 
 
 Bruce, Robert,he\d. his 14th Parlia- 
 ment in Holyrood, 85. — Sir Wil- 
 liam, Architect of the Palace, 89 
 Buchan, Henry David, lOth Earl 
 of, and Countess, buried in the 
 Abbey Church, . 65 
 
 Cain granted to the Canons, 13 
 Cairn of Nicol Mushet, N. 104 
 
 Calton Hilly and New London road, 
 
 &c. . . 106 
 CanonSf Regular and Secular, N. 
 10. — Of Holyrood Abbey, grants, 
 &c. by David I. to, 11—14 Pa- 
 tronages vested in, 15 — Legal, 
 Civil, and Ecclesiastical jurisdic- 
 tion of, . . ib. 
 Canongate, town of, formerly Her- 
 bergare, granted to the Canons, 
 
 Page. 
 
 14. — Kirk-session of, purchased 
 St Thomas's Hospital, &c. 25 — 
 Inhabitants of, used the Abbey 
 Church for divine service, from 
 the Reformation till the reign of 
 James VII. 29.— Resorted to La- 
 dy Tester's Kirk whilst the pre- 
 sent Canongate kirk was build- 
 ing, 1688, 30 More opulent 
 
 citizens of, buried in the Abbey 
 Church during Episcopacy, 45 
 
 Carlisleand Tortherwald, Lord, tomb 
 of, . . ih. 
 
 Caruca<e of Land, . N. 12 
 
 Chapel Royal, — See Church of Holy- 
 rood and Royal Chapel, 
 
 Chapel, St Thomas's, and Alms- 
 house, &c. 21. — St Anthony's, 
 and Hermitage, . 104 
 
 Charles I. annexed this Abbey, &c. 
 to the new bishoprick of Edin- 
 burgh 1633, 28 — Repaired the 
 Church during his reign, 81, 83. 
 —Crowned here in 1633, p. 89. 
 — Picture of and his Queen, by 
 Mytons, . . 99 
 
 Charter of Foundation of the Abbey 
 by David I. p. 11 Of St Tho- 
 mas's Hospital, &c. 22.-Of Erec- 
 tion of the Bishoprick of Edin- 
 burgh, Extract from, anent Ho- 
 lyrood Abbey, . 28 
 
 Choir and Transept of the Abbey 
 Church destroyed 1544, 18, 76 
 
 Church of Holyroodla'id waste by the 
 Earl of Glencairn, 18th June 
 
 1567, 26 Annexed with the 
 
 Abbey to the Bishoprick of Ed- 
 inburgh, 28. — The minister, a 
 Prebendary of St Giles's Cathe- 
 dral, ib — English Liturgy used 
 in it for 20 years, 29 — Used as 
 
 Parish Kirk of Canongate, ib 
 
 Converted into a Royal Chapel by 
 James "VII. ib — Decorated for 
 the Knights of the Thistle, 30. 
 — Destroyed at the Revolution 
 1688, ib — Stone Roof and Gal- 
 leries fell 1768, 31 Arnot»s 
 
 Reflections on its ruinous state, 
 ib — Ruins of, repaired 1816, p. 
 32 — Description of, 74 — Origi- 
 na'l Extent, 76. — Architecture of, 
 78. — Norman Arcades along the 
 basement storey of, 78, 80.-^ 
 Eastern Prospect, and west end 
 
INDEX. 
 
 113 
 
 ofthe^ 81.— North View, and in- 
 side looking east, 82 — Inside 
 "View looking west, 83 — Di- 
 mensions of the ruins, 84 
 
 Churches of Scotland, all originally 
 belonged to Regulars or Seculars, 
 
 10 Demolition of, ordered by 
 
 desire of the GeneraljAssembly 
 in 1579, . . N. 26 
 
 Claudero's Verses anent the Abbey 
 Porch, . . N.lOO 
 
 Clergy^ Dispute between English 
 and Scotch, and National Coun- 
 cil anent it, held in Holyrood 
 Abbey 1177, . . 16 
 
 Cloisters of the Abbey, some re- 
 mains of the, . . 76,79 
 
 Cloister^ Inhabitants of the, rashly 
 charged with ignorance, &c. Intr. 7 
 
 College, Popish, in Holyroodhouse, 89 
 
 Colunsay Abbey, a cell of Holyrood, 33 
 
 Contents, Table of, . 3 
 
 Cordwatners, Altar of their Incorpo- 
 ration in the Abbey Church, 20 
 
 Coronations at Holyrood, of James 
 
 II. 86 Of James VI. 89 — And 
 
 Charles I. . .89 
 
 Corstorphine Church and Lands 
 granted to the Canons, . 12 
 
 Craftangricy . . 107 
 
 Craw, Esq. W. S. John, buried in 
 the Chapel, . 68 
 
 Crawfurd, Archibald, Abbot of Ho- 
 lyrood 1457, 17. — made several 
 improvements on the Abbey, 18. 
 — Buttresses, &c. built by, 79. — 
 Buried in the Abbey Church 
 without a Monument, . 63 
 
 Creickton's Bishop, Foundation in 
 the Abbey Church, connected 
 with his Hospital, of St Tho- 
 mas's, 21. -Charter of, 22.-Rules 
 anent, . • 24 
 
 Criminals anciently protected with- 
 in the Sanctuary of the Abbey, 102 
 
 CromweW* Soldiers destroyed the 
 old Palace, . . 89 
 
 Cross, celestial, according to a Le- 
 gend, is said to have protected 
 David 1. while hunting in the 
 Forest of Drumselch, after which 
 event he built and endowed the 
 Abbey of Holyrood, lO.—Girth 
 Cross, . . 107 
 
 Crusades, Deputations from the 
 Crafts of Edinburgh sent to the, 20 
 
 P 
 
 Crvsay, a cell of Holyrood Abbey, 33 
 Cumberland, Duke of, slept in the 
 
 Palace 1745, . 90 
 
 Darnlcy, Henry Lord, married to 
 Queen Mary in Holyroodhouse, 
 88. — Buried in the Royal Vault, 57 
 David I. Founder of the Abbey of 
 Holyrood, 9. — Miraculously pre- 
 served while hunting in the Fo- 
 rest of Drumselch, ib. — Advised 
 in a dream to build the Abbey, 
 10 — Charter of Foundation by 
 
 him, . . 11 
 
 David II. buried in the Abbey 
 
 Church, . . 55 
 
 Dead, Sepulchres of the, violated 
 1G88, . . 30 
 
 Dean, Miln at the Village of, with 
 
 tythes granted to the Canons, 14 
 Demolition of Churches ordered by 
 desire of the General Assembly 
 of 1579, . N. 26 
 
 Derivation of the names of Arthur's 
 
 Seat and Salisbury Crags, N. 102 
 Description of a Religious Estab- 
 lishment during the prevalence 
 of Ecclesiastical Architecture in 
 Britain, 74.-Abbey of Holyrood, 
 
 76 — The Royal Palace, 93 
 
 Internal accommodation of the 
 
 Palace, 95 Environs of the 
 
 Palace, 102-107.— St Anthony's 
 
 Chapel, &c. . . 104 
 
 Dimensions of the present Ruins of 
 
 the Abbey Church, . 84 
 
 Dirige and Placebo, • N. 22 
 
 Dissolution of the Monastery of Ho- 
 lyrood and its Revenues, 26 
 Douglas George, Bishop of Moray, 
 buried in the Cloisters, 63. — La- 
 dy Jean and her Son buried in 
 the Church, . . 65 
 
 Drummond, Hon. John Lord (JDvke 
 
 of Perth,) buried here, . ib. 
 Drumselch, Forest of • 9 
 
 Duddingstone Hall,Village and Loch, 
 
 &c. - - 104 & 106 
 
 Duel, Trial by, desci^ibed, N. 15 
 
 Duke's Walk, formerly covered with 
 
 tall oaks, - - 104 
 
 Dunbar, Mary, her Monument, 53 
 Dunbar, the old Scottish Poet, N. 86 
 Dunmore*s, Lord, apartments in the 
 
 Palace, 92 and 99 Paintings in, 99 
 
 Ecclesiastical Architecture^ &c, cul- 
 tivated by the monks. Int. 5 
 
Echoing Rock\ - - 104. 
 
 Edinburgh^ Hospital in, granted to 
 Holyrood Abbey, 12, 13 — An- 
 nuity and grants of tallow, &c. 
 from, to the Canons, 12, 14 — 
 Deputations from the Inhabitants 
 went to the Crusades, 20. — Bi- 
 shoprick of, erected by Charles I. 
 
 28 Letter by Duke d'Artois to 
 
 Magistrates of, N. 91. — View of, 
 from Salisbury Crags, 103 
 
 Edward JIIJ's Army, The precincts 
 of the Abbey laid waste by, 17 
 
 Eglintoun, Countess of^ her Monu- 
 ment, - - - 51 
 
 Elizabeth^ PrincesSf daughter of 
 James VI. born, - 89 
 
 English, this Abbey repeatedly pilla- 
 ged and destroyed by them, 17, 18, 19 
 
 Entrances to the Abbey Church, 80, 81 
 
 Environs of the Palace, including 
 the Sanctuary, - 102—109 
 
 Errol, Countess Dowager ofy her 
 Monument, - - 60 
 
 Fairfowl, Andrew, Bishop of Glas- 
 gow, buried in the Abbey 
 Church, - - - - 63 
 
 Fergus, Lord of Galloway, an in- 
 mate, 17. 33 buried here 1138, 62 
 
 Fire, trial by, described, - 16 
 
 Flemings David, of Biggar and 
 Cumbernauld, buried 1405, 62 
 
 Font, brazen, c?.rried off by Sir 
 Richard Lea, 18 — Inscription 
 on it, - - 19 
 
 Fordam, Town of, granted to the 
 Canons, - - - - 12 
 
 FoT-esi of Drumselch, - 9 
 
 Forests, King's, wood granted from 
 them to the Canons, - " 13 
 
 Fouler, Anna, her Monument, 69 
 
 France, Monsieur and other mem- 
 bers of the royal family of, re- 
 sided in the Palace, - - 91 
 
 Frederick, Prince Henry, son of 
 James VI. birth of, - 89 
 
 Gallery, Great Picture, - fl7 
 
 Galloway, Fergus, Lord of, 17. 33. 
 62 John, Bishop elect of, bu- 
 ried here 1448, 63 John Pater- 
 son, Bishop of, promoted to be 
 Archbishop of Glasgow, buried 
 here 1708, ... 64 
 
 Gardens, Royal, - - - 101 
 
 Garths, - - - N. 107 
 
 GiTih^CroaSy - - ab. 
 
 Glasgow, Andrew Pairfowl, Arch- 
 bishop of, buried 1663, 63. — 
 Also John Paterson, Archbishop 
 of, buried 1708, - 64 
 
 Glencaim, Earl of, laid waste the 
 Abbey Church, 18th June, 1567, 26 
 
 Graham, Wm. of Hilton, & Spouse, 
 and their Monument^ 70, 71 
 
 Grammont, Duchess de, buried in 
 Royal Vault in 1803, - 5T 
 
 Grants of Churches and Lands by 
 David I. to Holyrood Abbey, 11 — 14 
 
 Grave Stones with Saxon Characters 
 in south aisle, - 62 
 
 Haddington, Earl of, enjoys the 
 King's Park, - - N. 109 
 
 Hamar, town of, granted to the 
 Canons, - - 12 
 
 Hamilton, Duke of. Hereditary 
 
 Keeper of the Palace, 92 His 
 
 Apartments, ib Described, 95. 
 
 — Paintings in, 96, 97 His 
 
 Gardens, - - . 101 
 
 Hamilton, Sir Wm. of Whitelaw, 
 buried 65 — Wm. Esq. of Ban- 
 gour, buried, ib. — Lady Susan, 
 buried, 65 
 
 Hay^s, Miss H. E. Monument, 52 
 
 Hay, Esq. of Kennet's, Alexander, 
 Monument, 1594, - - 61 
 
 Hay, Hon. Francis and Lady Fran^ 
 ces, buried, . _ 64 
 
 Henderson, Richard and Robert, In- 
 scription on the Monument of, 73 
 
 Herbergare, or Canongate, town of, 
 granted to the Canons, - 14 
 
 Hermitage, and Chapel of St An- 
 thony, - - 104 
 
 History, a dark shade thrown over 
 our civil and religious, in conse- 
 quence of the indiscriminate des- 
 truction of monasticManuscripts, 
 
 Introduc. 6 
 
 Holy cross, or Holyrood Abbey, a 
 proper account of, has been long 
 wanted, Introd. 6 — Lands of, 
 free from poinding, - 14 
 
 See Abbey of Sanct<e Cruets. 
 
 Holyroodhouse, Temporal Lordship 
 
 of, 1607, 27 No direct account 
 
 of the first erection of the Palace, 
 
 85 Part supposed built by 
 
 James IV. 86 — Apartments built 
 byJamesV. 81, 85.— Parliaments 
 held there by Robert Bruce, Ed- 
 
INDEX. 115 
 
 ward Baliol, and Robert III. 85, 
 
 86 — the residence of James I. 
 
 II. III. IV. 86 also of Jiimes 
 
 V. 87.r— of Queen Mary, 88 — of 
 •Tames Vi. and repaired by him, 
 89 — formerly had five Courts, 
 87. — destroyed hy Cromwell's 
 soldiers, 89 — rebuilt by Charles 
 II. as at present, ib. — Papists 
 enjoyed toleration within it, un- 
 der .James VII. ib. Cheva- 
 lier Charles, and Duke of Cum- 
 berland slept in it 1745, 90.— af- 
 terwards neglected for many, 
 ^ears, ib. — repaired in a plain 
 and substantial manner, 91.— 
 the temporary residence of Mon- 
 sieur, and other members of the 
 Royal Family of France, ib. — 
 apartments of Dukes of Hamil- 
 ton and Argyle, 92 — situation 
 and description of jt at present, 
 93 State apartments, - 98 
 
 Horologe of stone in King's gardens, 
 with many Dials, - 101 
 
 Hudson, Jeff'reyf the celebrated 
 dwarf, account of, - 100 
 
 //ttnfer's, v8ae7/e, monument, 61 
 
 Hunttys, Earl of, title deeds burnt 
 in Holyrood Palace, and renew 
 ed by James IV. 1506, . 87 
 
 Illustrative Plates, List of, - 4 
 
 Indiscriminate dtmolition of the 
 buildings of religious establish- 
 ments at the Reformation, Intr. 3 
 
 Innates of Holyrood Abbey, Illus- 
 trious, - - - 17 
 
 Inscriptions on Monuments within 
 
 the Abbey Church, 36 In the 
 
 Church yard, 68-r-Now removed, 71 
 
 Inside prospect of the ruins, 82, 83 
 
 Introduction, . . 3 
 
 Inverltith, Lands of, granted to the 
 Canons of Holyrood, - 12 
 
 Investigations of late years into the 
 remaining Monastic MSS. have 
 led to several important results, 
 Introduc. 7.- — Many splendid ex- 
 amples have a|)peared of late 
 years anent the I'-cclesiastical an- 
 tiquities of England, ib.— Little 
 hitherto ir.ade to illustrate Scot- 
 tish Monasteries, &c. - 7 
 
 James I. and Queen resided at 
 Holyrood Abbey, - _ 86 
 
 Jamc^ II. Mpnumpnt of 55. — Un- 
 
 ra^e 
 
 successful treaty anent his mar- 
 riage 81 — Born, crowned, mar- 
 ried, and buried here, - 86 
 
 James III. married at Holyrood, to 
 Margaret of Norway, &c. 1469, 86 
 
 James IV. had a Palace at Holy- 
 rood, where he was married to 
 Margaretof England, 1503, 86 
 
 James V. built apartments at Holy- 
 rood, 18.85 — HeandQueen Mag- 
 dalene arrived here, 1537, N. 55. 
 and N. 87.-— His apartments de- 
 scribed, 95. — Pictures in them, 
 96, 97.— Buried in the Abbey 
 Church, . . 55 
 
 James Vl, repaired and resided in 
 thePalace,89. — Heand his Queen 
 were crowned here, 1590, 89 
 
 James VII. fitted up the Royal Cha- 
 pel, 29, 90 instituted a Popish 
 
 College at Holyroodhouse, 89.— 
 and appointed a Popish printe? 
 
 there, . . 90 
 
 Jeffrey Hudson, the celebrated 
 
 dwarf, account of, . lOO 
 Jones, Inigo, repairs made under his 
 
 direction, . . 89 
 
 Jurisdiction of the Canojis, 14 
 
 Keeper of the Palace, James IV's 
 Chaplain some time, 87. — Duke 
 of Hamilton, now heritable keepr 
 er, and other officers of the Pa- 
 lace and Sanctuary, . 110 
 Kerr, Lord Robert, kc. buried here, 65 
 Kfrt/s of the Abbey Church deliver- 
 ed up to the Chancellor of James 
 
 vn. . . 29 
 
 King*s Park and environs of the 
 Palace, . . 102 
 
 King's Meadows and Gardens in 
 possession of the heritable-keep- 
 er, . . N. 109 
 
 Kintyre, half of the pleas and profits 
 of, granted to the Canons, 14 
 
 Knowledge prior to the Reformation, 
 chiefly confined to the Monas- 
 teries, . Introduct. 5 
 
 Knox, his followers too hasty in 
 destroying Ecclesiastical Build- 
 ings and Records, Introduct. 6 
 
 Legend anent the origin of the Ab- 
 bey of Sanctae Crucis, . 9- 
 
 Leith, North, purchased by the in- 
 habitants, and erected into a, 
 
116 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 parish 1609, 27, 28 — Monastery 
 of St Anthony at South Leith, 
 105 — View of, &c. . 106 
 
 Letter, Circular, ordering the de- 
 struction of Kirks, 1560, N. 25. 
 — From Monsieur of France to 
 the Magistrates of Edinburgh, 
 1799, . , N. 91 
 
 Libberton, Chapel of, and land 
 granted to the Canons, - 12 
 
 Linlithgow^ Skins of rams, &c. 
 granted to the Canons from the 
 Castle of, . . 14 
 
 Lists of Books on Ecclesiastical and 
 Architectural antiquities, Intro- 
 duction, N. 7. — Books consulted 
 in framing the preceding account 
 
 of Holyrood Abbey, 8 Religious 
 
 houses dependent on it, 32 Ab- 
 bots, &c. 33.— Monuments and 
 Inscriptions in the Abbey 
 
 Church, &c. 36 Nobility and 
 
 Gentry buried there, from 1706 
 to 1819, without Monuments, 67 
 
 Liturgy, English, used in the Abbey 
 Church for 20 years, 29 Hosti- 
 lity of the Scottish people to a 
 liturgy, . . 29 
 
 London, Stones for paving the streets 
 of, p. 103 — New road to, along 
 Calton-Hill, . 106 
 
 Lowes, Esq. Thonmsy Monument of, 53 
 
 Magdalene, Queen to James V. N. 
 55 buried in Abb?y-Church, 55, 56 
 
 Maitland''9 History of Edinburgh, 
 used as a general authority, In- 
 troduc.8. — Opinion anent the de- 
 rivation of the narne of Arthur's 
 Seat, N. 102 — and of St Anne's 
 Yards, . . 107 
 
 Manifesto issued by the Rulers at 
 the Reformation, . N. 25 
 
 Manuscripts, Destruction of Monas- 
 tic, has thrown a shade over our 
 Civil and Religious History, 
 
 Introduc. 6 
 
 Margaret, Queen to James III, 
 1469, . . 86 
 
 Marriages, Royal, at Holyrood, 86, 88 
 
 Mary of Guelder*, Queen of James 
 II. . . 86 
 
 Mary Queen of Scots, The Abbey 
 burnt during the Minority of, 87. 
 — Married to Lord Darnley, 88. 
 .—Earl Bothwell, 35, 88.— Sent 
 
 from Holyroodhouse to Lochle- 
 ven Castle, ib — Valuable articles 
 of, seized, ib — Furniture, &c. 
 used by her, still remaining, 95 
 Maul's, Baron, Monument, 44 
 Mercer^s Mrs Anne, Monument, 60 
 Millie, Architect, Monument of, Alex. 
 1643, p. 68 — John, Epitaph of, 
 N. 69— Robert, built the present 
 Palace, . . 89. 94 
 
 Monastery of St Anthony at South 
 
 Leith, . . 150 
 
 Monks, Destruction of their Manu- 
 scripts, Introd. 6. — too harshly 
 charged with indolence, &c. Int. 7 
 Monsieur, brother to Lewis XVIII. 
 
 resided in Holyroodhouse, 91 
 Monuments within the Abbey 
 Church, 36 — in the Church-yard, 
 68.-Inscriptions on, now removed 71 
 Moray, Geo. Douglas, Bishop of, 
 
 buried in the Cloisters, 6S 
 Moss''s, Mary, Epitaph, . 73 
 Mushefs Cuim, Nicol, . N. 104 
 Murray, Hon. Mary, Monument 
 of the, 61 — Regent's House in 
 Craftangrie, . , 107 
 
 Musselburgh and Bay, . 106 
 
 National Council held in Holyrood 
 Abbey 1177, . 16 
 
 Norman Arcades, &c. in the 
 Church, . . 78. 80 
 
 North-west Tower, or Vestry, 82 — 
 Monument in, . • 38 
 
 North Prospect of Church, . 82 
 
 Officers of the Chapel Royal and 
 Sanctuary, . . 110 
 
 Ores and spar found in Arthur's 
 Seat, . . 103 
 
 Oronsay, . • 15. 33 
 
 Oxgang, what . . N. 1^ 
 
 Palace of Holyroodhouse, old one de- 
 scribed, 87 — the present built 
 after the Restoration, 89 — [See 
 Holyroodhouse.] 
 Pannage, Swine of the Canons 
 
 freed from, . . 18 
 
 Papists greatly indulged by James 
 
 VIL . . 89 
 
 Park, Artillery, . . 101 
 
 Park, King^s, inclosed by James V. 102 
 Parliaments held in Holyrood- 
 house, . . 16.85.86 
 
INDEX. 
 
 117 
 
 Page. 
 
 Par<tca<e of land, . . N. 13 
 Paterson^ John, Bishop of Gallo- 
 way, 64' — Nicol's Monument, 71 
 — John's do. . . 72 
 
 Patronage of St Thomas's Hospi- 
 tal, fiic. . . 25 
 Patronagea vested in the Canons, 15 
 Perth, certain duties from, granted 
 
 to them, . . 13 
 
 Pictures in the Palace, 96—100 
 Pittendrichf town of, granted to the 
 
 Canons, . . 12 
 
 Placebo and dirge, . N. 22 
 
 Plates referred to and explain- 
 ed, . . 81, 82, 83 
 Pope Alexander III. , 1 7 
 Pope's Legate at Council in Holy- 
 rood Abbey, 1177, , 16 
 Porch of the Abbey and Palace 
 taken down, 100— Verses anent, 
 
 N. 100 
 
 Prebendary of St Giles' Cathedral, 
 
 Minister of Holyrood a, . 28 
 Prestonfield, . . 106 
 
 Privilege of the Sanctuary, . 109 
 Proceedings of the Rulers at the 
 Reformation anent Religious 
 Houses, . . N. 26 
 
 Reay*s, Lord and Lady, Monu- 
 ments, &c. • • 37 
 
 Reflections anent the brass font, 19 
 —the spirit of General Assembly 
 1576, by Abp. Spottiswood, N. 
 26 — Violations of the Sepulchres 
 in the Abbey Church, 30 — on 
 the Ruins by Arnot, &c. 31 
 
 Reformation, Conduct of the Na- 
 tional Rulers, &c. at the, 25 — 
 Abbey Church then laid waste, 
 ib Revenues then, 26, 27 
 
 Relics sacred in the Abbey Church, 25 
 
 Religious and Civil History, a dark 
 
 ' shade thrown over our, in con- 
 sequence of the indiscriminate 
 destruction of the Monastic re- 
 cords, &c. . Introduc. 6 
 
 Religious houses belonging to, and 
 dependent on Holyrood Abbey, 15. 32 
 
 Renfrew, House, &c. there granted 
 to the Canons, . , 13 
 
 Repairs, injudicious, in 1758, upon 
 the Abbey Church, 31.— Those 
 of 1816 in a better taste, 32 
 
 Utfttorationy present Palace built 
 since the, . . • 89 
 
 Revenue of the Abbey at Its dissolu- 
 tion, . . 26, 2T 
 Revolution mob destroy the Chapel 
 
 Royal, . . 30. 90 
 
 Richard II. burnt the Abbey, 1% 
 
 Rizzio, David, account of, N. 37 
 
 murdered, 88. — Scene of the 
 murder, . . ,95 
 Robert III. dwelt in Holyrood Ab- 
 bey, ... 86 
 Rode, echoing, . . 104 
 
 Rocks of Salisbury Crags, pave- 
 ment from, sent to London, 103 
 Rood loft, , . 81. 83 
 
 Roof of stone put on the Royal 
 
 Chapel 1758, fell 1768. . 31 
 Rowadill, a Cell of Holyrood, 33 
 Roxburgh burial vault, . 58 
 
 Royal Chapel, James VII. fitted up 
 the Abbey Church as a, 29— 
 rifled, and ornaments destroyed, 
 
 ib— described, 77 bells of, N. 
 
 82 — consecrated on St Andrew's 
 day, 1686, 90.-Chaplains, &c.of, 110 
 Royal burial Vault, 31. 54. 83.^ 
 Royal Apartments in the Palace, 
 98.— Royal Gardens, . 101 
 Ruins of the Church repaired 1816, 32 
 Rulers at the Reformation, Mani- 
 festo by the, . . N. 25 
 Rules and Constitution einent Altars, 
 &c. connected with St Thomas's 
 Hospital, &c. in the Abbey 
 Church, . , 24i 
 
 St Anne's Yards, p. 107, belong to 
 the Duke of Hamilton, 109 
 
 St Anthony''s Chapel and Hermitage, 
 104 — Monastery at South Leith, 105 
 
 St CuthSerts Church, &c. given to 
 the Abbey, 11. — Tythe* and 
 Fishings of ditto, . 12. 
 
 St Giles's Cathedral, the Minister 
 of Holyrood a prebendary in, 28 
 
 St Mary's Isle^ Convent of, a Cell of 
 Holyrood, ^ . . 32 
 
 St Ninian's Chapel purchased by 
 the Inhabitants of North Leith, 27 
 
 St Thomas's Hospital and Almshouse^ 
 
 21 — Charter of Foundation in 
 the Abbey Church connected with, 
 
 22 — -Rules anent the Chaplains 
 and Almsmen of, 24 — Patron- 
 age of, . . 130 
 
 Salisbury Craigs, derivation of ths 
 name of, N. 102 — View from, 103i 
 
J18 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page, 
 
 Saltoun, Lady Dowager^ Monument 
 of, . , . 43 
 
 Samson's RibSf Basaltic Columns 
 called, . . .103 
 
 fSanctuary^ for Insolvent Debtors, 
 
 102 Environs of, described, 
 
 102 —Boundaries of, 108— Pri- 
 vilege of, 10}> Bailie of the, ib. 
 
 —Officers of the, . . 110 
 
 Saugkton granted to the Canons, 11 
 
 ^cotCs, Mr, Reflections anent plun- 
 dering the Brazen font, 19 
 
 Scene of the murder of Rizzio, p. 
 95 Of Mushet's wife, N. 104 
 
 Selkirk's, Earl of. Monument, 43 
 
 Sepultura Regalia, account of it in 
 1683, N. 56— Violated by the 
 mob 1680, . . 30, 31 
 
 Seymour, Lord Webb, buried 1819, 68 
 
 Smith, Judge, buried here 1657, 64 
 
 Spottiswood's Account of the Demo- 
 lition of Churches after the Re- 
 formation, . . N. 26 
 
 Springs of Water, N. 11, and 103, 105 
 
 Spytwell, grant to the Canons, of 
 fishings in . . 13 
 
 Stewart, Mrs Euph. &c. Monument 
 of, , . . 66 
 
 Stigma^ removed from our Ecclesi- 
 astical Architecture, Introduc. 7 
 
 Stirling, grant from the fishings of, 
 and of wood from the Royal 
 Forests in Clackmannan and 
 Stirlingshires, to the Canons of 
 Holy rood, , » 13 
 
 Stirling of Keir\ Lady, Monu* 
 ment, - - 42 
 
 Students at the University of Edin- 
 burgh, joined the mob at the Re- 
 volution to destroy the Chapel 
 Royal, ... 90 
 
 Superiorities of the Canongate, &c. 
 conveyed to the Earl of Rox- 
 burgh, and afterwards to the 
 Town of Edinburgh, . 20 
 
 ^Sutherland, Monument of the 14th 
 Earl of, 49— 17 th Earl of, 51 
 
 Tailors, Altar in the Abbey Church 
 belonging to the, . . 20 
 
 Templars, Knights, . N. 21 
 
 Temporal Lordship of Holyrood- 
 house 1607, . . 37 
 
 Thistle, Order of the, revived by 
 James VII. 29.— .Sovereign and 
 
 Knights of, Thrones erected for 
 
 them in the Chapel Royal, 30 
 Tolls and Customs, the Canons 
 
 freed from paying, . 14 
 
 Trial by Duel, Fire, and Water, 
 
 described, . N. 15, and 16 
 Tythes, sundry granted to the 
 
 Canons, , , 14 
 
 University of Edinburgh, Students 
 of, join the mob at the Revolu- 
 tion 1687, to destroy the Royal- 
 Chapel, . . .90 
 
 Vaults, Burial, 30, 31, 54, 58 
 
 Roxburgh and Royal, , §3 
 
 Vestry of the Chapel Royal, 38. — 
 Tomb of Lord Belhaven, . 39 
 
 View of Edinburgh, from Salisbury 
 Crags, 103.— t^ost in the inter- 
 vening valley, ib.— From top of 
 Arthur's Seat, , . 106 
 
 Walks around Arthur Sejit, &c. 
 within the boundaries of the 
 Sanctuary, . . 103 
 
 Water, Trial by, described, N. 16 
 ; Well of St Anthony, . 105 
 
 Wells of Wearie, . 103 
 
 Wellhouse Tower, and Spring of 
 Water underneath it, . N. 11 
 
 Wemyss's Lady Elizabeth, Monu- 
 ment, ... 44 
 
 Western View of the Chapel Rpyal, 81 
 
 Whinstonp Quarry, <. 103 
 
 Whithorn, .John, Bishop of, 71— 
 Buried in the Abbey Church.-— 
 1209, p. 62 — John Bishop Elect, 
 buried, 1448, . 63 
 
 Window, great East, 81, 82, 83 
 
 Windows, originally circular, now 
 in the pointed style, 79. 83 
 
 William, King of Scotland, admit- 
 ted the Pope's Legate within his 
 Dominions on certain conditions, 16 
 
 Wiahart, George, Bishop of Edin- 
 burgh, account of» 45 — Inscrip- 
 tion on his Monument, 47 
 
 Wood granted to the Canons from 
 the Royal Forests, . 13 
 
 Woodford^ Es^. Jfohn, Monument of, 44 
 
 Vesier^a Kirk, Lady, resorted to by 
 the Inhabitants of Canongate, 
 whilst the present Church was 
 building, . • 30 
 
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