t 4i AND THE-K- ITTLE-FIELDS. • c. GUIDE RICHMOND - --^ AND THE -= BATTLE-FIELDS. BY W. D. CHESTERMAN. I I 7 RICHMOND : J. L. Hill Printing Company. 1891. « 08 T 0 « r-'.-PSlLB' That this growing city [RichmoncT] may enjoy the benefits which are to be derived from liberty^ indepe7idence^ a7id peace — that it fnay hnprove such of the advantages as boimti- ful naticre has bestowed^ a7id that it niay soo7i be ranked among the first m the U7iion for populatio7i^ co7}i77terce^ a7id wealthy is 7ny sincere and fervent wish, GEORGE WASHING TON. \_Resp07ise to the address of the Com7no7i Hall upon his visit here in Novefnber^ 1784-^ ■JO ot}2 [Copyrighted by W. D. Ciiesterman.] INTRODUCTORY. ^fglCHMOND “hath a pleasant seat,” said Daniel Web- ster, who saw it “beneath an October sun,” and who wrote of it after delivering here one of his great orations. He was right. The city is midway between the Blue Ridge mountains and the sea ; on a succes- sion of hills, with rich lowlands in the distance, and at a point where the James river breaks over the rocks at “the falls” and joins the tidal waters of the harbor. The landscape in lines and colors blends the grace and softness of the low country with the majesty and vigor of the highlands. Blessed with pure air and good drainage, healthy, bright looking, easily accessible from every point of the compass, prosperous and growing, it is no less rich in promise than in precious memories of the past. If the visitor to Richmond be of antiquarian taste, he may stand on the spot where rose the lodge of Powhatan, father of Pocahontas, and ruler of the Indian tribes of Eastern Vir- ginia. At fancy’s call he may people the shore with Captain John Smith, Christopher Newport, and their associate pio- neers who set foot on this soil in 1607, the year of the land- ing at Jamestown, and thirteen years before the arrival of the Pilgrim Fathers at Plymouth. He may saunter into the old church which rang to Patrick Henry’s appeal for “liberty or death ” and recall one of the most animating scenes in Ameri- can history. He may walk the streets and roads beaten by the feet of Benedict Arnold’s troops, v/hen they devastated the country and burnt Richmond, which same thoroughfares later 1 4 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. on echoed the tread of Washington ’sand Lafayette’s soldiers in the movements which prefaced the surrender at Yorktown ; while of Confederate memorials and associations every street has its share— every field was a camp a quarter of a century ago, when “ The long streets trembled with the tramp of men And rang with shouting and martial strains, And up the glaring river came the boom Of mighty guns that held a fleet at bay.” Here in Richmond is ‘^The White House of the Confede- racy,” looking almost exactly as it did when it was the Pres- idential residence of Mr. Davis. The Capitol of the State, in which the Confederate Congress sat, with doors open wide, invites the stranger to visit every room, and there is not a room without a history. From the platform on the Capitol roof a complete view of Richmond and the city of Manchester, opposite, may be had, including the highlands (up the river) ; the fells, the islands, Hollywood cemetery, the six bridges which span the James, the ships in the harbor, and “the fertile fields and silent pines ’ ’ on the opposite shore, with the river threading its way eastward until lost to sight behind the battle-crowned heights at Dre wry’s Bluff; and in the distance the battle-fields of Fair Oaks (Seven Pines), Mechanicsville, &c., &c. Those who take interest in art matters, especially, and per- sons of observation and culture, generally, will be delighted with the Washington monument — the grandest group of bronze statuary, certainly in this country, and many declare in the world. The equestrian statue of General R. E. Lee, by Mercie, is a fine bronze set upon an elegant pedestal of granite. Houdon’s statue, made from casts “taken from Washington’s own person,” is to be seen in the Capitol. Foley’s bronze statue of Stonewall Jackson is one of the last and best works of that great sculptor. Hart’s marble figure of Henry Clay is a faithful representation of that tribune of the people. 6 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c At Valentine’s studio are the plaster cast of the recumben figure of Lee ; his great classical group, Andromache, and many other models by this well-known Virginia sculptor; and in the Senate Chamber is a great battle painting by Lami : The Storming of a Redoubt at Yorktown. Two Presidents (Monroe and Tyler) are buried at Holly- wood. John Marshall, the most distinguished of the Chief- Justices of the Supreme Court of the United States, lies by his wife in Shockoe cemetery. Joaquin Miller’s Visit to Richmond.— Joaquin Miller, who was in Richmond a few years ago, wrote a letter describing the place as follows : ‘‘A wide-built city of brick on seven hills, hovering above the plunging James river, with many little islands — brisk streets, very clean, wide, and orderly, and so densely wooded as almost to conceal the three-story houses. A busy com- mercial and manufacturing city ; beyond the river, with several bridges, a rolling, English-down looking country of vast reach and fertility ; factories on the intervening islands and river banks, roaring with progress, sending up a smoke that hovers over the tawny, rushing river like the smoke of a mighty battle. One is surprised at the order and the industry here. ' “Churches are notably numerous; school-houses — among which the residence of Jefferson Davis is conspicuous, both from its modest elegance and old associations — are also to be seen on every hand throughout this industrial town. ' “A vestige of the war, material, moral, or otherwise, is not discoverable to the stranger. Old Libby prison (since removed to Chicago), down by the river bank, looks no more like a prison than the dozen other big tobacco houses, all with iron-grated windows. It is no longer a tobacco warehouse, however, but a monstrous, groaning, roaring mill, where bark, bones, stones, and all sorts of things are ground up for fertilizing the soil. But it brings up strange GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 7 fancies— this groaning, grinding, and gnashing in there, and then the dense, black, Vesuvian smoke that pours incessantly out of the top and hangs forever over it. “The city is building fast; buildings are booming ahead, just like New York, Boston, London, Paris, improving in all respects just like these and other great cities. You are liable to get mortar on you almost anywhere, but the march of improvement is mainly towards the west” Richmond and Manchester, 1890, [C!omparison of 1880 and 1890.] Population Richmond, Manchester, and suburbs of both 105,000 Increase in 10 years, 30,300 Property of the two cities assessed for taxation, 1890 |60,000,000 Increase $33,334,000 Number of manufactories, 1890 . . 774 Increase 209 Sales of manufactured products, 1890 $33,088,900 Increase $9,602,260 Number of hands employed in man- ufactures, 1890 . 21,453 Increase 7,260 Capital in manufactures, 1890 . . . $13,929,745 Increase $7,106,843 Jobbers’ sales, 1890 $31,500,000 Increase $14,500,000 Length of street car routes, 1890 (much of them double track), miles, 32J Increase 24J Public school enrollment, 1890 (not including 3,500 pupils in other schools, seminaries, and colleges), 11,749 Increase 5,838 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 9 Bank clearings, 1890 |93,500,000 Increase $48,500,000 Number of new buildings erected, 1890 700 Increase 447 Richmond is built on high hills, on the north bank of the James river, 127 miles from the ocean as a vessel sails. Tides rise to the city, making the greatest indentation of the sea on the Atlantic coast, and steamships ply between our port and New York and Philadelphia, giving to the community many of the advantages of a seaport. The railroads coming to Richmond are (in alphabetical order) as follows : Chesapeake and Ohio — Richmond Division. Chesapeake and Ohio — Peninsula Division. Chesapeake and Ohio — James River Division (R. and A. R. R.). Richmond and Danville. Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac. Richmond and York River — Division of Richmond and Danville. Richmond and Petersburg. The Farmville and Powhatan railroad, which extends from Bermuda Hundred to Farmville (a distance of 91 miles), en- ters the city over the tracks of the Richmond and Danville. The Norfolk and Western, which extends from Norfolk to Bristol and further western points (with a mileage of 964), enters the city from Petersburg upon the track of the Rich- mond and Petersburg Railroad, but contemplates having a route of its own. Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac Railroad Company, between Richmond and Quantico (82 miles), con- necting at the latter point with the Pennsylvania railroad sys- tem for the transportation of passengers and freight to and from points North, East, and West . 10 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. This line is an important link in the fast mail and passenger route between New York and Florida and the West Indies. Its physical condition, equipment, and appointments of every character are kept up to the highest standard. The New York and Florida special vestibule train, heated by steam and lighted by electricity, one of the most perfectly ap- pointed and superbly equipped trains in the world, runs over this road. By fast schedules the fruit and vegetable products of the South are being sent to Northern markets over this route, in improved cars, which return loaded with machinery, grain, and general merchandise. This constantly increasing volume of traffic is stimulated and encouraged by increased facilities of transportation, and in the commerce of Richmond it is a most important factor. Three through trains in each direction run daily between Richmond and Washington, Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York, carrying passenger, mail, and express, in addi- tion to the special trains of Pullman cars, which are run as the exigencies of Southern travel demand. Fast freight trains run daily to and from commercial centres of the coun- try, east and west. There are local trains for the accommo- dation of suburban travel between Richmond and Ashland, and commutation rates are regulated to encourage this feature. The beautiful and thriving town last named bears evidence of the success of this liberal policy. The Chesapeake and Ohio Railway Company own and operate over 1,000 miles of road, extending from Fortress Monroe (Old Point), on an inlet of the Atlantic ocean, to Newport News, the seaport of the system, eight miles from Fortress Monroe, whence steamers run to Norfolk and Portsmouth and the fine Old Dominion steamships to New York. From this port the route proceeds up the Vir- ginia peninsula, through the city of Williamsburg, near to Yorktown and Jamestowm, and along by numerous battle- r V • A VIEW OF MAIN STREET IN 1865. Showing the destructiveness of the Evacuation Fire. The building left standing is the Post-office. 12 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. fields of the war of 1861 and 1865. At Richmond the main stem goes towards the mountains via Gordons ville and Charlottesville. At the latter city connections are made for Washington, Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York. Thence westward the route is through beautiful mountains and valleys via Staunton, White Sulphur Springs, Charleston, W. Va., Huntington, W. Va., and down the Ohio to Cincin- nati. At Cincinnati it connects with the Cleveland, Cincin- nati, Chicago, and St. Louis systems, and with roads for all parts of the South, Southwest, West, and Northwest. From Richmond to Clifton Forge the Chesapeake and Ohio has virtually two roads — that is to say, its main stem via Char- lottesville, and its James River division (Richmond and Alle- ghany road), which passes up the James River Valley via Gladstone, Lynchburg, Lexington, Glasgow, and Natural Bridge to an intersection with the main line at Clifton Forge. A great feature of the Chesapeake and Ohio is its Vesti- bule Limited — an entire train lighted with electricity and heated with steam drawn from the engine, from New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington to Cincinnati with- out change, with Pullman vestibule sleeping cars from Wash- ington to Louisville ; from Old Point Comfort to Richmond and Cincinnati. The F. F. V. Vestibule Limited carries a through dining car between Cincinnati and New York. The Chesapeake and Ohio route is through the most picturesque regions of America, and the F. F. V. Vestibule Limited is one of the most complete vestibule trains between the East and West. Excursion tickets are sold in season to White Sulphur Springs, the Warm, the Hot and Healing Springs, Natural Bridge, Old Sweet, Red Sulphur, Salt Sul- phur Springs, Old Point Comfort, Virginia Beach, and other numerous resorts. The Richmond and Petersburg Railroad is the initial link in the Atlantic Coast Line, which extends from Richmond to Charleston on the south and Columbia on the west, and A VIEW OF MAIN STREET BETWEEN NINTH AND TWELFTH IN 1890. 14 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. has a mileage of 1,122. It is operated in close connection with the Savannah, Florida and Western system, which con- trols about 1,000 miles of railroad and drains a large part of southern Georgia and Florida. The Richmond and West Point Terminal Company owns and operates the Richmond and York River railroad, the Richmond and Danville, and the Virginia Midland, and roads in the States of North and South Carolina, Georgia, Tennessee, Alabama, and Mississippi, with an aggregate mileage of 1^520, extending as far south as Mobile and as far west as Memphis, Tenn., and Greenville, Miss., the whole forming one of the greatest railroad systems of the country, and it has recently become a part owner in the Baltimore and Ohio system, which latter has a mileage of 3,055 Belt Lines. — The Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac and the Richmond and Petersburg companies have just com- pleted a ‘‘belt line’* connecting their roads west of Rich- mond and Manchester, and crossing the James river upon a beautiful iron bridge located a short distance from the New Reservoir. The Chesapeake and Ohio has in contemplation the early building beyond the city limits of a belt line to connect their main line with the James River division and their Peninsula division. Steamer Lines. — The following are the regular steamer lines: The Old Dominion steamships from New York, stop- ping at Norfolk, Portsmouth, and City Point, and pass- ing Fortress Monroe (Old Point), Newport News, James- town, Westover, Harrison’s Landing, Bermuda Hundred, Dutch Gap, Dre wry’s Bluff (Fort Darling), and scores of other points of historic interest ; James River Steamboat Company, to Newport News, Old Point, Norfolk, Ports- mouth, and all James river landings; the Clyde line, for Philadelphia. GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 15 TIME AND DISTANCES. Railroads strike out from the city in every direction, and the time-tables show the following facts : TO Hrs. Miles, TO Hrs, Miles, Atlanta, Ga 20 549 Lexington, Va. . . 8 196 Augusta, Ga 19 473 Lexington, Ky. . . 21 560 Baltimore, Md. . . 5 156 Luray, Va 7 179 Beaufort, S. C. . . . 20 530 Memphis, Tenn. . . 32 1,001 Boston, Mass. . . . 20 572 Mobile, Ala. .... 31 904 Buffalo, N. Y. . . . 23 578 Montgomery, Ala,*. 25 724 Charleston, S. C. . . 14 457 New York 10 344 Charlotte, N. C. . . 10 282 New Orleans, La. . 36 1,044 Chattanooga, Tenn. 21 494 Nashville, Tenn. . . 26 647 Chicago, 111 30 880 Norfolk, Va 3 104 Cincinnati, O. . . . 20 580 Natural Bridge, Va. 8 196 Cleveland, O. . . . 22 645 Old Point, Va. . . . 3 85 Columbus, O. . . . 21 566 Philadelphia, Pa. . . 8 254 Columbia, S. C. . . 15 388 Pittsburgh, Pa. . . . 18 490 Danville, Va. . . . 5 141 Raleigh, N. C. . . . 8 181 Galveston, Tex. . . 61 1,532 Savannah, Ga. . . . 16 558 Greensboro’, N. C. . 7 189 St. Louis, Mo. . . . 31 914 Indianapolis, Ind. . 24 691 St. Augustine, Fla. . 24 900 Jacksonville, Fla. . 21 859 Washington, D. C. . 4 116 Knoxville, Tenn. . 17 382 Wilmington, N. C. . 7 246 Louisville, Ky. . . . 24 654 Weldon, N.C.. . . 84 Lynchburg, Va. . . 6 147 The Street Railways of Richmond and Manchester have ^been wonderfully extended and improved in the past three years, and along with them have grown the suburbs, once an insignificant feature of the city, now our great pride. The lovely hills north and west of the city are covered with villas, and Barton’s Heights, Chestnut Hill, Highland Park, River View, and Forest Hill Park have sprung into existence as considerable communities. Most of these localities and nearly every point of historical interest are reached by the street-cars Tare five cents), of which we have the following lines : 1. Main-street. 2. Broad-street. 16 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 3. Union Passenger. 4. Marshall-street. 5. Manchester Railway and Improvement Company. 6. Richmond and Manchester. 7. Southside Land and Improvement Company. 8. River View Improvement Company. 9. Seven Pines road. (Round trip 25 cents.) Total mileage of routes, 32J miles, and most of the com- panies have double tracks ' say 50 miles of tracks. The Main-street Line, beginning in Fulton (Rich- mond’s most eastern section), passes the Old Dominion Steamship Company’s wharves and S. H. Hawes’ coal ele- vator, Libby Hill (Marshall Park), B. F. Johnson’s publish- ing house, St. John’s church (within two blocks, or squares, as they are called here), Libby Prison (within one square), “Old Stone House,” the First Market, Post-office and Cus- tom-house, Capitol and Capitol Square, all the insurance and newspaper offices, the banking house of J. L. Williams & Son and that of C. W. Branch & Co., real estate offices of J. Thompson Brown & Co. and many others, P. H. Mayo & Brother’s tobacco factory, Allen & Ginter’s cigarette -works (within one square), the beautiful Byrd-street railroad station (within two squares), Gamble’s Hill Park (within four squares), and runs alongside Monroe Park for several hun- dred yards ; goes quite near to Hollywood, and from Mon- roe Park proceeds out Main street to the New Reservoir Park and Soldiers’ Home. The Broad-street Line begins at Ninth and Main, and thence proceeds up Ninth, past the Capitol and Capitol Square, Washington monument, St. Paul’s church, and City Hall, to Broad street — the home of the retail trade — and the broadest street (105 feet wide) in the city proper. The cars now pass along by Colonel John Murphy’s European Hotel, the Second Market, long lines of stores for the sale of dry goods, the Masonic Temple, and still up Broad to Laurel, GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 17 and down Laurel (past Monroe Park) to Hollywood Ceme- tery. The Union (^‘Electric”) Line begins at Twenty-ninth and P streets (not far from Oakwood Cemetery) and passes down Church Hill avenue to Franklin, up Franklin to Bank street (rounding the Capitol Square), and again returns to Franklin (passes General Lee’s war-time residence), thence up Seventh to Clay, out Clay to Hancock (within a short dis- tance of Hartshorn Memorial College), out Hancock and Harrison (near to Richmond College and Lee Monument and Exposition grounds), and thence to Reservoir street and past Hollywood Cemetery and the Old or Marshall reservoir, and thence to Ashland street, past Harvie town and the Male Orphan Asylum to the New' Reservoir Park and the city’s new pump-house. The Main and Broad-street Lines enter the park on the north side ; the electric on the south side. The “Electric” (Union) Line has a branch running from Seventeenth and Franklin streets up Seventeenth to the Chesapeake and Ohio shops. Grain Elevator, and Locomotive Works. Also another branch from Fifth and Clay up Fifth to Baker (near to the Alms-house, City Hospital, Shockoe Cemetery, and Jewish Burying Ground), and up Baker nearly to Brook avenue. Going eastward to the point of beginning, this line debouches from Church Hill avenue up Marshall street to Twenty-fourth, down Twenty -fourth to Broad, down Broad past old St. John’s church and burying ground to Twenty-ninth, up Twenty-ninth to P, where its sheds are located. The Marshall-street Line begins at Mayo’s bridge and follows a route up Fourteenth to College, up College (past the Virginia Medical College) to Marshall, and up Mar- shall (near the Jeff. Davis mansion) to the Exposition grounds. For most of its length it parallels the Broad- street and Electric lines, and is but one square from each. 18 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. This line, which was built by the Manchester Railway and Improvement Company, and is now owned by the City Rail- way Company, is about to be extended across Mayo’s bridge to Manchester, where its tracks are being laid along a very desirable route. The River View Line connects that suburb and Harvie- town with the Main-street line. The Seven Pines Road (operated by steam) reaches from Twenty-sixth and P streets (near the eastern terminus of the Electric line), past the Masonic Home, to the battle- field of Seven Pines — eight miles. The Richmond and Manchester Line connects the two cities by way of the Free bridge. The Southside Land and Improvement Company connects with it in Manchester and extends to Forest Hill Park, on Manchester’s suburbs ; also connects with it in Richmond, and extends from the Free bridge to the Locomotive Works. All the roads of Richmond and Manchester will ultimately use electricity, and it is now applied by the Main-street line and the Union or Electric line. The Southside Company’s road is being equipped for its use. Our Products, Trade, and Water-Power.— Richmond is a distributing point for provisions, dry goods, clothing, notions, medicines, hardware, agricultural machinery, etc., and most of the Southern and many of the Western States are among our patrons. It is a city plenteously supplied with water-power, and rich in facilities by river and rail for receiving raw material and sending out manufactured products. Its goods, tobacco par- ticularly, go to every State in the Union and to almost all the lands of the earth. It has a location enabling it to do business advantageously with the people of Virginia, West Virgin-ia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Tennes- see, and Kentucky, and with the markets of New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, New Orleans, Charleston, Atlanta, 19 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. Cincinnati, Chicago, etc. In fact, with its lines of ocean and river steamers and numerous railroads connected with great systems, its business men can receive and ship freight, in unbroken bulk, from or to any portion of this continent. In the five years just passed Richmond has made aston- ishing strides in population, in manufactures, in the jobbing trade, in general commerce and business of every descrip- tion, but in nothing has her progress been more strikingly exemplified than in the great number of elegant residences built. About five miles above Richmond the James river begins a very rapid descent, and falls altogether one hundred and six- teen feet, which, with the canals paralleling the stream, affords an immense water-power, along which there are many desirable manufacturing sites to be obtained upon favorable terms by application to the President or Secre- tary of the Chamber of Commerce. Richmond is one hundred and sixteen miles south of Washington by the nearest railroad route, and is one hun- dred and twenty-seven miles from the Atlantic ocean, follow- ing the meanders of the river’s channel. Vessels drawing sixteen or seventeen feet of water come to our wharves, and Congress is pledged to a plan of improvement which will give us, at high tide, twenty-five feet to the sea. That Richmond is a healthy place has never been questioned. The climate is dry and invigorating. Freezing weather but seldom comes and rarely lasts longer than three or four days at a time. One of the most beautiful features of Richmond is its nu- merous parks. They are all on high hills, and charming views spread out before them. All are reached by street cars. The churches and places of worship number seventy- five, and the denominations represented are : Baptist, Methodist, Christian, Catholic, Episcopal, Presbyterian, Jewish, Lu- theran (English and German), Friends, etc. 20 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. A recent table, prepared to show the percentage of crime in the principal cities of the country, puts Richmond in the place of honor as a well ordered community. The principal streets and many houses are lighted by electricity. Richmond’s Manufactures. The following table shows the number of hands employed and annual sales of products in the chief manufacturing busi- nesses here : (Totals are given on page eight.) Number. > Amount. Agricultural implements, machinery, &c Bags and cotton-bagging Bakers Barrels and hogsheads Baskets, brooms, wood and willow-ware Blacksmiths and wheelwrights Blank-books, paper-bags, and paper-boxes .... Boots, shoes, leather, and leather goods Boxes— Cigar, tobacco, and packing Bricks Candy and confections Carriages, wagons, carts, spokes, hubs, &c Carpenters and builders Cigars, cigarettes, and cheroots Coffee, spice, and flavoring-mills Clothing and merchant tailors Cotton-factories Drugs, medicines, meat-juice, and bitters Fertilizers Flour and corn meal Furniture, mattresses, &c Granite- works Iron and nail works, machine-works, foundries, stone works, architectural iron-works, tobacco fixtures, &c Lubricators, oil, and grease Marble and stone-works Newspaper and job printers Paper-mills Pork-packing Saddles, harness, and horse-collars Sash, blinds, doors, ornamental wood-work, and picture-frames Slate-works Sulphuric acid and sulphate of ammonia Tanners Tinware, gas-fitting, and plumbing Tobacco — Chewing and smoking Tobacco — Stemmeries and reprizers Trunks and valises Iu 4 1 $ 296,003 326 1 197,600 130 237,100 240 157,100 365 396,000 188 174,300 603 313,000 872 1,153,110 144 269,000 482 273,000 105 374,500 321 337,5<30 452 604,000 2,579 3 280,000 23 '297,000 812 350.500 330 340,000 208 1,137,900 220 1,125,000 323 2,500,000 167 240,300 615 451,500 3,238 3,714,800 31 302,00 ff 241 318,600 229 442,850 145 450 000 44 390,000 155 260,200 110 00 161 249,000 150 157,000 20 205,000 22 110,000 337 593,500 4,890 7,950,100 575 870,000 100 160,000 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c, 21 Exclusive of the foregoing are manufactories of ale, beer, mineral waters, bluing, brands and stencils, cotton-mill sup- plies, dyeing and bleaching, earthen and stoneware, ground glue, gunsmith supplies, hair-working goods, ice, soap, &c. The Jobbing Trade. THE SALES LAST YEAR. As indicated by the following table, the sales in 1889 were 129,140,000, as compared with |27,405,000 in 1888, or an increase of |1, 735,000. The capital invested in 1889 was ^6,905,000, as compared with |6, 530, 000 in 1883 — an increase of 1375,000: ARTICLES OF TRADE. Class t Article^ or Kind. Groceries and liquors Provisions Dry goods and notions Fancy groceries and tobacco . . Boots and shoes Hardware Drugs Railroad and plumbers’ supplies Hides and leather Hay and feed Books and stationery Sewing-machines Clothing Oil and paints Pianos and organs Licorice Hats and caps Earthenware and china Stoves and tinware Carpets and upholstery Seeds Wood and willow-ware Rubber goods Millinery Totals Capital in Annual Business. Sales. 11,875,000 $10,750,000 385,000 3,750,000 840,000 3,000,000 400,000 2,225,000 500,000 1,800,000 300,000 1,000,000 340,000 775,000 200,000 580,000 240,000 575,000 200,000 550,000 225,000 500,000 250,000 500,000 100,000 395 000 125,000 a 50,000 160,000 350 000 100,000 a 50 ,ooo 160,000 325 000 90,000 300,000 100,000 275,000 90,000 200,000 75,000 200,000 75,000 175,000 50,000 150,000 25,000 65,000 $6,905,000 $29,140,000 In addition to the jobbing trade proper, there are dealers in coal, ice, and cattle ; also many articles sold on commis- sion, which, with the retail lines, come under the head of trade, exclusive of manufacturers. These sales are estimated at $18,000,000, making total sales outside of manufacturers about $47,000,000. 22 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. Railroad Tonnage. — ^The freight tonnage originating at Richmond during the past year is reported large and in excess of 1888. Last year two of the principal roads carried about 211,000 tons — an increase of about 60,000 over the previous year. Authorities think the figures will show an increase this year over last of close on to 75,000 tons. The Trade Organizations here are the Chamber of Com- merce, with a membership of 600 (John B. Purcell president, and R. A. Dunlop secretary); the Tobacco Exchange, the Grain and Cotton Exchange, and the Stock Exchange. All of these have suitable homes, and the Chamber of Com- merce is about to erect a fine large building of its own. Social Clubs. — The chief clubs here are : The Westmore- land, at the southeast corner of Grace and Sixth streets ; the Richmond, on Franklin, between Second and Third ; the Mercantile, on Marshall, between Eighth and Ninth ; the Commercial, on Main street, between Ninth and Tenth, and the Commonwealth, which is about to erect a magnificent building in the West End, at the southwest corner of Frank- lin and Monroe streets. Hotels. — The chief hotels here are as follows: Ex- change and Ballard House, W. Scott Carrington, man- ager ; Ford’s Hotel, A. J. Ford, proprietor; Murphy’s European Hotel, John Murphy, proprietor ; American Hotel, A. D. Atkinson, proprietor; Hotel Dodson, Charles B. Dodson, proprietor ; Davis House (European plan), Mark Davis, proprietor ; Commercial House, William Snellings, proprietor; St. Charles Hotel, P. J. Callaghan, proprietor; St. Claire Hotel, Charles G. Pettit, proprietor ; Mt. Vernon House, Mrs. W. C. Mayo, proprietress ; Merchants’ Hotel, J. J. Thompson, proprietor ; The Palace, C. E. Straus, pro- prietor ; Hotel Zimmerman, W. H. Zimmerman, proprietor. WASHINGTON MONUMENT AND STATE CAPITOL. 11 . Capitol and Surroundings. most central and conspicuous building in the city is the Capitol (State House). Standing upon the brow of a commanding eminence (Shockoe Hill) and in the midst of a lovely park of twelve acres, it may be seen for miles. ‘‘Here, on this Capitoline Hill,” said Rev. Dr. Moses D. Hoge, in his address at the unveiling of Stonewall Jackson’s Statue, “we are in sight of that historic river [called by the Indians Powhatan, by the Colonists the James] that more than two centuries and a half ago bore on its bosom the bark freighted with the civilization of the North American continent, and on whose bank Powhatan wielded his sceptre and Pocahontas launched her skiff; we are under the shadow of that Capitol whose foundations were laid before the Federal Constitution was framed, and for which the edicts of Virginia went forth over her realm, that stretched from the Atlantic to the Mississippi — edicts framed by some of the patriots whose manly forms on yonder monument still gather around him whose name is the purest in human history.” Within the enclosure of the Capitol Square are the Capitol, the Executive Mansion, the Washington Monument, the Stonewall Jackson Statue, the Statue of Henry Clay, and the “Bell House,” the last an odd, tower-like structure, once the “guard-house” for the State soldiers (Public Guard), GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 25 who, in olden times, were employed as police about the public property, and constituted the only “ standing army ” of State establishment in the Union. From the Bell House fire alarms and summonses for members of the Legislature were formerly sounded. Thence during the war issued the peals which called out for local-defence purposes every man and boy who could shoulder a musket. The Executive Mansion (the residence provided by the State for her Governor) is at the east end of the broad ave- nue leading from the monu- ment. B. H. Latrobe was the architect of It, and it was built during the years 1811, 1812, and 1813. James Barbour was the first Governor who occupied it, and it has been occupied by every Governor since. The present build- ing was preceded by on« sometimes called the “ Governor’s Palace,’’ a plain, common-looking wooden structure, which was taken down after this was erected. The trees in the square (park), remarkable for size and beauty, are filled with squirrels so tame that they will eat from the hand. The Statuary in the Capitol Square.— Cultivated travellers freely concede that there is no work of the kind in this coun- try, and few in the world, at all comparable with the Wash- ington Monument. [See the engraving on the front of the cover.] It consists of an imposing column of Richmond granite, rising from a star-shaped base, surmounted by a governor’s residence. 26 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c\ gigantic equestrian statue of Washington, and on pedestals around and beneath him figures of the following: Patrick Henry, whose eloquence fired the hearts of the patriots in the revolution; George Mason, the author of the Virginia Bill of Rights ; Thomas Jefferson, the author of the Decla- ration of Independence; Governor Thomas Nelson, Jr., to whose patriotism and purse the victory at Yorktown was largely attributable ; Andrew Lewis, under whose leadership s Indian conqueror the Virginians made a pathway to the West, and John Marshall, the most distinguished Chief-Justice of the United States Supreme Court. The following shows the places of the statuary and the inscriptions on the shields of the allegorical figures occupy- ing the lower pediments : Finance opposite Nelson . . Colonial Times . . . opposite Lewis . . Justice ....... opposite Marshall . Revolution opposite Henry . . Independence .... opposite J efFerson . Bill of Rights .... opposite Mason . The monument and most of the figures were modelled by Crawford, the designer also of the bronze figure of Liberty on the dome of the capitol at Washington, and of the statue of Beethoven at Boston. Mr. Crawford died in 1857, and the unfinished work— statues of Nelson and Lewis and the alle- gorical figures — was executed by Randolph Rogers, much of whose labor is to be seen in th3 capitol at Washington. Our equestrian statue is 20|^ feet from the rider’s chapeau to the plinth upon which the horse’s feet rest. The pedestrian statues are each ten feet high. The entire cost of the monu- ment (including statuary) was $259,913.26. The corner-stone v/as laid February 22d, 1850, and Wash- ington’s statue was unveiled February 22d, 1858, but the en- tire work was not completed until 1868. /Yorktown \ Saratoga. I Point Pleasant. ( Valley Forge. / Great Bridge. ( Stony Point. i Eutaw Springs. Trenton. King’s Mountain. Princeton. Guilford C. H. Bunker Hill. GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 27 The bronze figures were all cast at the Royal foundry at Munich. Stonewall Jackson. — On the north side of the avenue, between the Washington monument and the Governor’s house, is the bronze statue of Stonewall Jackson. It stands upon a pedestal of Virginia granite ten feet high. It is of heroic size and is one of the best works of the late Mr. Foley, the great English sculptor, who was chosen by the Royal Commission to make the collossal statue of Prince Albert for the memorial in Hyde Park, of which he executed also the group Asia.” This statue of Jackson was ordered by the Right Honorable A. J. Beresrord-Hope and other admirers of THE STATUE OF STONEWALL JACKSON, 28 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. ** Stonewall’^ Jackson, and was presented to Virginia by them, duly accepted by the General Assembly, and unveiled on the 26th of October, 1875, with great ceremony. The following is the inscription : “ Presented by English gentlemen as a tribute of admiration for the soldier and patriot, Thomas J. Jackson, and gratefully accepted by Vir- ginia in the name of the Southern people. Done A. D. 1875, in the hun- dredth year of the Commonwealth, “ Look ! There is Jackson standing like a stone wall.” The Capitol. — The Maison Carree, an ancient Roman Temple of Nismes, France, and now the municipal museum of that city, was the model selected by Mr. Jefferson for the Capitol of Virginia, but it was not strictly adhered to in the construction of the edifice. The corner-stone was laid August 18, 1785; “the Capitol’^ then being in a plain and small wooden structure on the west side of Fourteenth street between Main and Cary. The ground floor (generally called “the basement offices ”) contains the offices of the Auditor of Public Accounts, Sec- ond Auditor, Treasurer, and Register of the Land Office (ex-officio Superintendent of Public Buildings). In the Land Office are the oldest State records in America. They are continuous from the year 1620 (w-hen the Capitol of Virginia was at Jamestown) to this time. On the floor above are the two Legislative Chambers. In the rotunda, or quadrangle rather, between them, is Houdon^s Statue of Washington — “a fac-simite of Washington’s person,” said Lafayette. Houdon, a celebrated French sculptor, employed by the General Assembly to do this work, was two weeks with Washington at Mount Vernon, in October, 1785, “during which time he took a cast of Washington’s face, head, and upper part of the body, and minute measurements of his person, and then returned to Paris to do his work.” Copies of the statue have been taken by Valentine and Hubard. r GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c 29 This statue was erected May 14, 1796. The following is the inscription (written by Madison) ; “The General Assembly of the Commonwealth of Virginia have caused this statue to be erected as a monument of affection and gratitude to George Washington, who, uniting to the endowments of the hero the virtues of the patriot, and exerting both in establishing the liberties of his country, has rendered his name dear to his fellow-citizens and given to the world an immortal example of true glor3\ “ Done in the year of Christ one thousand seven hundred and eighty- eight, and in the year of the Commonwealth the twelfth.” Houdon was the great sculptor of his day. His best known works are Diana (made for the Empress of Russia), the seated statue of Voltaire at the Theatre Francaise, “ The Shivering Woman,” and the statue of a muscular skeleton of the human body, which last has been reproduced over and over for the artistic study of anatomy. Among his last works were busts of Napoleon and Josephine and the statue of Cicero in the Luxembourg palace. The Bust of Lafayette, which occupies a niche in the wall near the statue of Washington, was also made by Houdon. The original was presented by Virginia to the city of Paris, and then this copy was ordered for the State of Virginia. The Senate Chamber (entrance from the rotunda, or quad- rangle more properly) was occupied during the war as the Confederate House of Representatives. A fine picture of The Storming of a Redoubt at Yorktownf by Lami, an eminent French painter (a work presented to the State by Mr. W. W. Corcoran), hangs on the wall opposite the Presi- dent’s chair Lami was a pupil of Horace Vernet. Some of his histor- ical paintings, such as the Battle of Casano, the capture of Maestricht, the Fights at Hondscoot and Watignies, and the Capitulation of Anvers, are in the galleries of Versailles. The Battle of the Alma is another of his productions. A fine picture of General R. E. Lee, by Elder, hangs on the wall opposite the gallery during the legislative session. 30 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. and at other times is to be seen in the Library above. At the other end of the Capitol is the Hall of the House of Dele- gates. Here Aaron Burr was tried for treason before Chief- Justice Marshall ; here the State Secession Convention met in 1861. Pictures of Chatham and J efferson hang upon the walls. April 27, 1870, while the State Court of Appeals, sitting in its room directly above this hall, was hearing the contested election case of Ellyson vs. Chahoon, the floor broke under the weight of the great crowd, and sixty-five men were killed and two hundred wounded by being precipitated into this hall. The ceiling and gallery of the court-room fell upon them, smothering in the debris many who might have survived the fall. Rotunda Gallery.— In the gal- lery are hung great numbers of portraits of historical personages. A curiosity here is the Old Stove, which was made in England in 1770 by one Buza- glo, and sent over by the Duke of Beaufort as a present to the Colony of Virginia. It was used in warming the House of Burgesses at Williamsburg until the capital was removed to Richmond, and was in use here for three-quarters of a century at least, but is now re- tired from service. The found- er, Buzaglo, thus wrote of the “warming machine” (1770): “The elegance of workmanship does honor to Great Britain. It excels grandeur anything ever seen of the kind, and is a OLD STOVE IN CAPITOL, GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 31 masterpiece not to be equalled in all Europe. It has met with general applause, and could not be sufficiently admired. ’ ’ This stove is about seven feet in height. On the floor above the Legislative Halls, with entrances from the rotunda gallery, are the State Library and offices of the Governor and Secretary of the Commonwealth. Since the Capitol Disaster there has been a rearrangement of the rooms over the hall of the House. The Chamber of the Confederate Senate was in the corner covered by the Gove.^'nor’s new rooms. The State Library has the largest and handsomest rooms in the Capitol. Upon its shelves are 40,000 volumes, many rare and valuable MSS., and a variety of objects of interest, among them the following well worth inspection : 1. Speak- er’s Chair of the House of Burgesses in Colonial Times ; 2. Portraits of Governors in Colonial and later Times ; 3. The Parole signed by Lord Cornwallis^ own hand at Yorktown ; 4. Original MS. of the Virginia Bill of Rights — the first in America ; 5. The Lawyer’s Fee-Book of Patrick Henry ; 6. Autograph of Washington at seventeen years of age, with specimens of his work as a land surveyor; 7. Jefferson’s Marriage Bond ; 8. Specimens of Continental and Confede- rate Money ; 9. MS. of Stonewall Jackson’s last dispatch. View from the Platform on the Roof of the Capitol.— There is a platform on the roof of the Capitol which may be reached by any one with safety. The view is good. The Janitor will point out places of interest, including some battle-fields, of which fair glimpses may be had. The Marble Statue of Clay, which stands under a canopy located in the Square between the Capitol and the bell- house, is by Hart, and was presented to Virginia by the countrywomen of this great tribune of the people, and unveiled with imposing ceremonies April 12th, 1860. City Hall. — The building going up on the square north of the Capitol— just beyond Jackson’s statue — is the City Halt, It 32 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. occupies the site of the old City Hall (built in 1815) and that of the First Presbyterian church (removed to the northeast corner of Grace and Madison streets). The corner-stone of the new City Hall was laid on the 5th of April, 1887. The design was made by Mr. E. E. Myers, of Detroit, Michigan, and the structure when finished will cost in the neighbor- hood of $1,200,000. The stone is the celebrated James river granite, of which there are almost inexhaustible quarries all around this city. The work of construction is under charge of City-Engineer W. E. Cutshaw. Confederate Landmarks Identified. — [These skirt the Capi- tol Square, and are placed here in proper sequence for visit- ing.] The Confederate Post-office Department was in God- din Hall, a stuccoed edifice southeast corner Eleventh and Bank streets, about one hundred yards from the Capitol portico. The building was destroyed by the great fire of the evacuation. The present one covers the exact site, and is in nearly the same style of the old one. Fifty yards up Bank street is the Custom-house and Post-office (recently remodelled), one of the few buildings on either side of Main street between Eighth and Thirteenth left standing by the evacuation fire. The office of President Davis was on the third floor, second room to the left entering from the Bank- street door, now occupied by Mr. M. F. Pleasants, clerk of the United States Circuit Court. The rooms on the Bank- street floor were occupied by various officers of government, and the Main-street floor (previous to and since the war the City Post-office) by the Confederate Treasury. On the west side of Ninth street, where Bank street ter- minates, was the Mechanics* Institute, used for the Confede- rate War and Navy Department.s. It was burnt by the evacuation fire. Going up Ninth street northwardly a square and a half, and *S7. Paul's Church (Episcopal) is reached. Its spire is remarkable for grace and symmetry. Sunday, April 2, 1865, President Davis was at worship in this church r K' j- THE NEW CITY HALL— BROAD-STREET 34 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. when notified by telegram from General Lee that the city must be evacuated. The hotel building (now St. Claire) opposite St. Paul’s was used by the Second Auditor’s office of the Treasury Department. The Provost Marshal’s office was in a large framed house (the “Winder Building”), erected for the purpose, on the west side of Tenth street between Broad and Capitol, to the north of the Washington statue. After the war it was removed to Navy Hill (on the northern limit of the city), and converted into a school-house for colored children. Valentine’s Studios. — The studios and gallery of E. V. Valentine, sculptor (open to visitors), are at 809 east Leigh street. Here may be seen, in addition to the original plaster of the “Lee Recumbent Figure,” the marble of which is in the Mausoleum annex to Washington and Lee University chapel, Lexington, replicas of the sculptor’s “Woman of Samaria,” “The Penitent Thief, ” “Judas,” &c., and busts of various Confederate celebrities ; also, studies by his master. Kiss, including the original full-size head and the miniature plaster group of the Amazon. Mr. Valentine has just finished his “Andromache and Astyanix,” which is now being cut in marble. This last is a Homeric group, illus- trating the sadness and forebodings of Andromache imme- diately after parting with Hector, and is Valentine’s greatest and best effort in ideal art. Eastern Part of the City. [Route for carriage drive of two hours.] making a tour of the city start from the Capitol. The usual plan is to visit first the eastern or old portion of the city, and then the western or new part. The Jeff. Davis Mansion, corner Clay and Twelfth streets, as the former “White House of the Confederacy” is popularly called, is only four or five squares from the Capi- tol. It is three stories high, of brick, painted. Here, for nearly four years, Mr. Davis and family resided; here he held his most important councils with General R. E. Lee ; and here his little son Joseph (who is buried not far from President Monroe at Hollywood) met his death by a fall from the porch. The house is roomy and old-fashioned, and was built and long occupied by Dr. John Brockenb rough. When the capital of the Confederacy was removed from Mont- gomery to Richmond it was purchased by the city and ten- dered as a present to Mr. Davis. As such he declined to receive it, but consented to occupy it for his term, leaving the title in the city. After the occupation of Richmond by the Union forces in 1865, till the restoration of civil govern- ment in 1870, the building was occupied in whole or in part as a residence or headquarters by the Military Commanders of this district, viz : Generals Godfrey Weitzel, E. O. C. Ord, H. W. Halleck, A. H. Terry, John M. Schofield, George Stoneman, Alexander S. Webb, and E. R. S. Canby. An 36 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. association has been formed, the object of which is to acquire the Jeff. Davis Mansion from the city and use the property as a Library building and Museum of Confederate archives and curios. The handsome building on the brink of the hill about one hundred yards north of this house is the Colored Normal School. Down Broad Street. — Returning to Broad, by way of Twelfth street, we soon come to the Monumental Church (Episcopal), which marks the spot where stood the Rich- mond Theatre, destroyed by fire December 26, 1811 (while ‘‘The Bleeding Nun^* w^as being played), burning to death Governor G. W. Smith and fifty-nine others. The crypt in the portico contains the names and a portion of the ashes of the victims. Immediately in the rear of this church, facing College street, is the Medical College of Virginia^ a hand- some building in the Egyptian style of architecture. The '‘Retreat for the Sick’^ is w^est of the College, and fronts on Twelfth street. The brick church seen after the Monumental is passed is the First African f the oldest colored church rt / organization in the city, and one of the very largest in point membership in the land. Half a mile onward, and on the ^biil beyond the valley, St. John^s Church is reached. The P grading of the streets has left the church and graveyard surrounding it high up above the pavement, from which rt they are approached by flights of stone steps. The building erected in 1740, and though it has been from time to time altered and improved, it is substantially the same which in 1775 echoed the speech of Patrick Henry to the Virginia Con vention sounding the key-note of the Revolution, “ Give vie liberty y or give vie death.*^ The oldest tomb-stone, that of Rev. Robert Rose, is of date 1751. Services (Epis- copal) are regularly held in St. John’s. Leaving the church, in five minutes we are at Libby Hill or Marshall Parky where the monument to the private sol- diers and sailors of the Confederacy is being erected. J OLD ST. JOHN’S CHURCH. [From a view taken at the close of the war of 1861-5.] 38 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. From this point the view of the city and country-side is charming. On the left is Chimborazo Park, where stood the largest Confederate hospital, occupying barracks-like buildings, which covered acres and acres of ground. There scores of thousands of soldiers were treated, and many died from wounds or diseases. The buildings, or many of them, stood until a few years ago, when they were cleared away “THE WHITE HOUSE OF THE CONFEDERACY.” (Central School.) This, the residence of Hon. Jefferson Davis while President of the Confederate States, has for twenty years been used as a public school building, but is soon to become a Library and Confederate Museum Hall PRIVATE SOLDIER’S MONUMENT ON LIBBY HILL. This structure is to be 65'feet high. The column is a reproduction (except as to dimensions) of Pompey’s Pillar. Work on it was begun this year. 40 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c so that the property might be used for park purposes. Look- ing down the river on the Richmond shore, we see the Rich- mond Cedar Works, the old Brewery building, the extensive plant of the Richmond Chemical Works, and further on the wharves of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway Company. While there are many other good views here, this one from Libby Hill is not to be duplicated — it has peculiar charms of its own. Well may we here quote the language of the poet describing Richmond on the Thames, after which, because of resemblance of situation, Richmond on the James was named. “What a goodly prospect spreads around Of hills and dales, and woods and lawns and spires, And glittering towns and gilded streams.” If the visitor desire, he can conveniently extend his drive from Libby Hill to Oakwood Cemetery^ where 16,000 Con- federates are sleeping, and a monument rising midst their graves tells their story. In this cemetery the Union Colonel, Ulric Dahlgren (son of Admiral Dahlgren), who was killed in one of the “ raids around Richmond,’’ was interred. His father having made application to President Davis for the return of the body under flag of truce, men were sent to open the grave, secure and deliver up the body. It was found by them, however, that the grave (on the eastern slope of the cemetery) had been rifled. Some Richmond Unionists had come in the night and stolen the body away. They carried it out to the country again, buried it, and after the war delivered it to Admiral Dahlgren. Supposing that the visitor leaves Libby Hill without going to Oakwood, the next point of interest is the five-story book- publishing house of B. F, Johnson & Co,y at the northeast comer of Main and Twenty-sixth streets, one of the great objects of industrial interest in Richmond, and one of the most complete establishments of its sort in the country. LIBBY PRISON FROM A VIEW TAKEN IN 1865. (In 1889 the building was removed from Richmond to Chicago. 42 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. Next the visitor should go to the Libby Prison site^ Cary and Twentieth streets, upon which has recently been built the works of the Crystal Ice Company. Here, about 1850, was erected a building which afterwards obtained w'orld wide celebrity. It was constructed for storage purposes and was long occupied by Libby & Co., ship chandlers. It was a large , square, plain brick structure, and after the war began the Confederates secured it as a prison. It was used mostly to confine commissioned officers and for the reception and reg- istration of privates destined for Andersonville, Salisbury, and Belle Isle. In this way some 40,000 or 50,000 prisoners probably crossed its threshold. The office af the comman- dant was at the northeast corner. From this prison, in Feb- ruary, 1864, one hundred and nine prisoners, led by Colonel Streight, managed to escape. They got into tlie basement and tunnelled under the east wall into the premises adjoin- ing, used for stable and storage purposes. IMore than half of them were recaptured. The building was used by the Southern Fertilizing Company as a manufactory when in Feb- ruary, 1888, it was purchased by a Chicago syndicate, and in 1889 it was taken down, brick by brick, loaded on cars, and removed to Chicago, where it has been re-erected, and is now known as the Libby Prison War ISIuseum. A few minutes drive from the Libby and we are at the Old Stone Housey Main street between Nineteenth and Twentieth. This is without question the oldest building now standing in Richmond. It is supposed to have been erected by one Jacob Ege, and tradition associates with it the names of Washing- ton, Lafayette, Jefferson, Monroe, and other celebrities. Whatever may be its history, its antiquity is unquestionable, and it has been visited by thousands of strangers from all quarters of the globe. Driving up Main street to the Post-Office (which pretty well completes the circuit of the eastern section of the city), from Fourteenth street up only a few houses can be found which J 44 GUIDE TO RICHMOND &c. withstood the fire of the evacuation. The Post-Office is one of these ; everything immediately around it was burnt. All the handsome buildings now to be seen were erected since the war, when the people not only recommenced life with no money and few friends, but with smouldering ruins marking the squares where had been their costliest bridges, depots, warehouses, factories, and stores. POST-OFFICE, IV Western Portion of the City. [Route for two or three hours’ drive.] ^^^UPPOSING that the visitor leave the Post-Office, on his drive to the western or new portion of the city, and that the route be up Main street, he will, in two squares’ distance pass the J. B. Pace Block, south- (f^ east corner of Main and Eighth streets. The upper floors of this great building are all used as offices of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway Company. During the war the Spotswood Hotel stood on this lot, and it was headquarters for all celebrities visiting here. It escaped the fire of the evacuation, but was burnt December 25, 1870, when eight persons lost their lives in it. The next point on our visiting list is the cigarette works of Allen (2f Ginter^ now known as the Allen & Ginter branch of the American Tobacco Company, at the southwest corner of Cary and Seventh streets. President Hayes’ party, in 1879, and the Marquis of Lome’s, in 1882, found great de- light in visiting the factory — as well to hear the girls sing at their work as to see the cigarettes turned out by their nimble fingers. Their labor is all white. The house has a world- wide reputation. Its cigarettes and other products are sold in every part of the globe, and crowned heads and princes and the greatest as well as the humblest of earth are * ‘ puffing ’ ’ their goods. 46 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. Diagonally across the street from Allen & Ginter’s is an- other famous factory — that of P. H, Mayo & Bro.y incor- porated, which has an imposing front of about two hundred feet on Seventh street, between Main and Cary, four to five stories high, forming a hollow square, and is one of the most completely equipped establishments in the country. Long experience of the proprietors has enabled them to furnish their factory with the most modern and approved machinery, much of which they have invented, and all combine to effect the excellence and high reputation they have attained in their productions, which are chiefly navy styles. At the southeast corner of Cary and Sixth streets are the unique and extensive works of Mann S. Valentine, originator and manufacturer of Valentine’s Meat Juice, which has a world-wide reputation and sale. Back to Main street, and at Sixth, we pass the Young Men’s Christian Asso- c i a t i o n Hall, which is one of the practical re- sults of the Moody meet- ings held here in 1885. The great evangelist, b y his personal ef- forts here, raised a great part of the money, and the corner-stone was laid in 1885. The building contains a fine lecture hall, library, gymna- sium, parlors, school rooms, &c. At the intersection of Main and Fifth streets we pass the Allan House to the left, and Dr. Hoge's (Presbyterian) Church to the right ^ J GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 47 In the Allan House many years ago lived Mr. John Allan, who adopted and educated the poet, Edgar Allan Poe. In this house, in 1881, was held a great ball in honor of the La- fayette and Von Steuben families, and other representatives of France and Germany, who came here from the dedica- tion of the Yorktown Battle Monument. The next cross street (Fourth) leads from Main to Gamblers Hill Park^ which is noted for the view it offers of the river above and below tide, and scenes of busy .life. At the foot of the hill are the tracks of the James River Division of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway Company ; a railroad which, starting from Richmond, and using in good part the tow-path of the old canal, follows the James River Valley through a country as remarkable for the loveliness and variety of its scenery as for the richness of the farming lands and its beds of mineral wealth. The Park is skirted by handsome residences, of which Pratt’s Castle is one of the most prominent and unique. Between the canal and the river is the Tredegar Works, one of the largest iron-manufacturing establishments in the country, conducted by a company, of which General Joseph R. Anderson is president. During the w^ar it largely supplied the Confederacy with cannon and shot and shell. Belle Isle is also in full view. For some time during the w^ar a prison camp was here. The prisoners were quartered in tents on the lowland. The Old Dominion Iron and Nail Works Com- pany, of which Mr. Arthur B. Clarke is president, occupy the island for their purposes. The State Penitentiary is to the right of Gamble’s Hill ; its high walls at once indicate that it is a prison. It went into operation March 29, 1800, and has suffered from fire on several occasions. At the evacuation, April 3, 1865, the guard (a company of State ‘‘regulars”) having been withdrawn from the city with the Confederate troops, the prisoners broke out, and a mob of ruffians broke in for purposes of robbery, and the buildings were fired and several of them destroyed. r PRATT’S CASTLE, GAMBLE’S HILL. J GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 49 When Aaron Burr was here on trial for treason before Chief-Justice Marshall, he was confined in the Penitentiary in one of the rooms then and now set apart for the Superinten- dent’s use. There are usually about nine hundred prisoners within the walls and several hundred more are on public works. Hollywood and Beyond.— From Gamble’s Hill to Holly- HOLLYWOOD GATE. wood Cemetery is a ten-minutes’ drive, and it is a beautiful spot. The entrance is through a “ruined” portal, the granite of which is nearly covered by vines. A massive pyramid of undressed James River granite, ninety feet high, stands as a monument to the twelve thou- sand Confederate dead buried around it. On President’s Hill, overlooking the river, are buried Presidents Monroe and Tyler. The grave of the latter has as yet no stone to mark it. It is within twenty steps of Monroe’s, and within a few feet of the marble figure of the Virgin Mary over his (Mr Tyler’s) daughter’s resting-place. A tomb of iron and granite covers Monroe, who died in New York in 1831, and was disinterred and removed to Richmond 5C' GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. in 1858. John Randolph, of Roanoke, is also buried in this cemetery. His grave, at the west end of Roanoke avenue, is covered by an enduring tablet of granite. Here in this cemetery lie also Lieutenant-General A. P. Hill, who was in the last thoughts of both Lee and Jackson ; Major-General George E. Pickett, who led the charge of the Virginia Division at Gettysburg; William Smith, Major- General in the Confederate army and twice Governor of Virginia ; General J. E. B. Stuart, tlie famous cavalryman ; Commodore M. F. Maury, ‘‘the pathfinder of the seas” ; Henry A. Wise, celebrated as Governor and General ; Hon. James A. Seddon, Confederate Secretary of War; Thomas Ritchie, founder of the “Enquirer’’ and “Father of the Democratic Party”; John R. Thompson, the Poet; Gen- erals W. H. Stevens and John Pegram ; John M. Daniel, the aggressive editor of the “Examiner” during the war; Caroline Richings-Bernard, the famous opera singer, and hundreds of others who were well known in the State. The grounds altogether contain eighty-seven acres. The view from Hollywood of Richmond and Manchester, the winding of the river below the cities, and of the Falls of the James is excellent. In front (south) of Hollywood, down on the river bank, are the lower City Water Works. A dam half way across the river supplies the motive power and feeds the pumps. To reach the “ Pump-House ” from Hol- lywood you pass through a tunnel under the canal. Return- ing to the cemetery you can pass out of the western gate and drive to the Marshall (old) Reservoir^ which is surrounded by pretty beds of flowers and shrubbery. The grounds of this reservoir have a tragic interest, as on the night of the 13th of March, 1885, Thomas J. Cluverius, a young lawyer of King and Queen county, led his cousin, Fannie Lillian Madison (whom he had basely betrayed), into them by an opening in the fence nearest Hollywood, and having knocked her insensible, threw her body in the water, THE CONFEDERATE MONUMENT IN HOLLYWOOD. Inscription; East Side — “To the Confederate Dead.” North Side “ Memoria in sterna.” South Side — “ Numini et Patriae Asto.” West Side — “ Erected by the Ladies of the Hollywood Memorial Association, A. D. 1869.” 52 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. where it was found next morning. He was arrested on the 18th ; tried in May, convicted, and on January 14, 1887, was hanged in Richmond jail. Miss Madison, who was a native of King William, and resident of Bath county when brought here and murdered, is buried at Oakwood. West of Hollywood is River View Cemetery (city property) and Mount Calvary (Catholic), both recently laid out. The latter particularly is destined to be a beautiful spot. The New Reservoir Park is half a mile still farther west- ward. The fields between the two were once almost cov- ered by the great Confederate hospitals Winder and Jackson. The collection of houses to the left constitute Harvie- town. It consists in considerable part of the buildings erected soon after the war by the United States Government as quarters for troops. The place was then called Camp Grant. The large brick building is the Male Orphan Asylum, Mrs. J. R. Gill, superintendent. The New Reservoir is on an elevated plateau, and is sur- rounded by a park of 300 acres. This reservoir covers 11| acres — that is, it is the size of the Capitol Square — and has a capacity of 40,000,000 gallons. The New Pump-House, half a mile southwest of the reser- voir, at the Three-Mile Locks, is the main means of supply- ing the city with water. The power comes down the canal from the river six miles above this point. The New Reservoir^ with its drives, walks, lake and boats, its great avenues lined with shade-trees, its pavilions for pic-nic parties, and beautiful pumps (water and .steam power), is one of the great attractions of the city, and though but a few years of age, is growing greatly in popularity. Passing out of the Reservoir grounds by the Boulevard, you come to the Lee Camp Soldiers^ I-Iome—?L large build- ing and collection of pretty cottages set in the midst of a grove of oaks. This home for the war-worn warriors of the Confederate States was bought and paid for by private sub- t; T OMB OF MONROE IN HOLLYWOOD. 54 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. scriptions, and is now maintained by appropriations from the State, from the city, and gifts of private persons. It usually has about 125 inmates. From the Soldiers’ Home, looking northward, you seethe Exposition Buildings erected on the Fair Grounds in 1888, at a cost of |70,000. Beyond it, on the Brook road, are several of the finest country houses in Virginia, chief among which are those of Mr. Joseph Bryan, Major Lewis Ginter, and Dr. Hunter McGuire. The roads, avenues, and groves in that immediate neighborhood are very lovely. During the war of 1861-5 the Fair Grounds were known as Camp Lee, and thousands of troops encamped there. The usual route from the Soldiers’ Home to the city is down Grove road, a charming avenue lined with handsome cottages set in the midst of lawns, flowers, and shade-trees. At Vine street you come into full view of the Lee Monu- ment, and a drive of two or three hundred yards brings you to it — in the centre of Lee Circle — which is at the west end of Franklin street. Here fifty-eight acres of land have been laid off into lots, and will in a few years be occupied by fashionable residences. Lee Circle is a piece of ground 200 feet In diameter, where Monument avenue and Allen avenue (each 140 feet wide) intersect. The site was given to the monument association by Major Otway S. Allen and his sisters — Mrs. Roger B. Gregory and Mrs. N. M. Wilson. The corner-stone of the monument w^as laid October 27, 1887, and the statue was unveiled May 29, 1890; Mercie and Pujot (both of Paris) were the sculptor and architect, respectively. The total cost was about $75,000. The dedication of the monument on the 29th May, 1890, was the occasion of the greatest reunion of Confederate soldiers ever known. The oration of the day was delivered by Colonel Archer Anderson, and Governor McKinney and Generals Fitz Lee, Joseph E Johnston, Jubal A, Early, 56 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. James Longstreet, John B. Gordon, John R. Cooke, and other celebrities had parts in the ceremonies. Coming into the city, down Franklin street, you pass Rich- mond College, a building of great size, standing in the centre of several acres of land, with numerous residences for its pro- fessors gathered about it. A square or two onward, and looking towards Broad street, you have a glimpse of the handsome freight houses of the Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac Railroad Company. On the right you pass Monroe Park (the old Fair Grounds), the centre of the fashionable West End. Here were camped in the early spring of 1861 the First "egiment of South Car- olina troops, the first troops brought here from the South. MR. A. T. HARRIS’ RESIDENCE, Facing Monroe Park. RESIDENCE OF MAJOR LEWIS GINTER, S. W. CORNER FRANKLIN AND SHAFER STS. 58 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. Later the grounds were used for hospital purposes, and one- story buildings covered them. A few years after the war they were devoted to park purposes. On Franklin street you will see many handsome residences, among them those of Major Lewis Ginter, E. A. Saunders. R. W. Powers, Samuel Hirsh, Fred. R. Scott, Alfred T. Har- ris, William L. Royall, Joseph R. Anderson, P. H. Mayo, Thomas Atkinson, James B. Pace, Colonel Archer Anderson, and John P. Branch. The residences of General Ander- son and Mr. Mayo are at the intersec- tion of Franklin and Jefferson streets, and are on oppo- site sides of this great fashionable thoroughfare ; the former to the right, the latter to the left. residence of Gen. Anderson. They are in the Italian villa style, with spacious porticoes ; their light stone- colors contrasting beautifully with the abundant foliage of the spacious grounds about them. At the southwest corner of Franklin and Monroe streets the Commonwealth Club is erecting a very handsome building upon the Residence of Mr. Mayo. GO GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. site (opposite the residence of Major Bailey Davis) of what was one of the famed seats of the olden times — having been known in one generation as the Bullock Mansion and in another as the Palmer Mansion. Now onward to the Capitol Square, whether you follow Franklin or Grace street, you are in the midst of elegant resi- dences. Grace street (the street between Franklin and Broad) is so called from the great number of churches with which it is lined. V. Other Points of Interest. ■ HILE it was not practicable to include in the fore- going drives the following places, nevertheless it ? should be understood that they are quite as worthy of visits as most others heretofore referred to, viz : Shockoe Hill Cemetery, Jewish Cemetery, and City Almshouse, north end of Fourth street. In the first, Chief-Justice John Marshall, John Hampden Pleasants, and many others of distinction are buried ; in the second there is a unique enclosure as of stacked muskets around the soldiers’ section, and the Almshouse is one of the handsomest city buildings we have, and was a great hospital during the war. Standing on the hill at the end of Fifth street (near the Jewish Cemetery) you see in the valley before you the Rich- mond Locomotive and Machine Works, where at this very moment a contract (amounting to |654,000) is being filled to supply the United States Government with machinery for the great war ship Texas. The ravine here is about to be bridged, and a street rail- way will cross it. To your left Barton’s Heights are in view; in front Chest- nut Hill, and to your right, in the valley, the round-house and workshops of the Chesapeake and Ohio Company. Next should be visited the solid, squarely-built old house which was once the residence of Chief-Justice Marshall, and 62 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. late the residence of ex-Governor Henry A. Wise, northwest comer of Ninth and Marshall streets. The Richmond National Cemetery (to which a government road leads from Chimborazo Park), where thousands of Union soldiers are buried, is on the Williamsburg road, two miles from the city. The grounds are always well kept. It is but a short drive from this point to Fair Oaks (Seven Pines) battle-field. A visit to the Tobacco Exchange, Shockoe Slip, about noon will prove of interest. Most of the great warehouses for the inspection, sampling, and storing of leaf tobacco are in the neighborhood of the Exchange-. Richmond is one ot the foremost of the great tobacco markets, and “Virginia leaf’’ is renowned the world over, whether used in cigarettes, smoking or plug tobacco. The Maso7ts^ Hall, on Franklin street, between Eighteenth and Nineteenth, is the oldest building in this country erected for Masonic purposes. The corner-stone was laid in Octo- ber, 1785, and it is believed that the first meeting in it was that of the Grand Lodge, in 1796. The Masons are now bringing to completion a beautiful temple at the southwest corner of Broad and Adam.s streets, a w'orthy home for the lodges, chapters, and commanderies that will be gathered there, and located on a fast-improving part of Richmond’s great retail thoroughfare. The Richmond House, on Governor street, opposite the Governor’s Mansion, used during the war as one of the bureau buildings of the Confederate Government, is now St, Luke'' s Home — Dr. Hunter McGuire’s hospital. Literature, Art, Miscellanies. — The Virginia Historical Society has a valuable Library of 10,000 volumes, with many rare M9S., portraits of distinguished Virginians, &c,, in their rooms at the Westmoreland Club. Mr. R. A. Brock, who is a devoted student and able and prolific writer of Virginia history, is the corresponding secretary. MASONIC TEMPLE. 64 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. The Mozart Association give musical entertainments at their hall. A large and prosperous German Society own Saenger Halle, and have frequent reunions and musical en- tertainments there. The Richmond Theatre and the Mozart Academy of Music are the largest and best places of amuse- ment in the city. The Young Men’s Christian Association have a library and reading-room — the latter free to the public. The State has a law library at the Supreme Court-room, and a general library of 40,000 volumes at the Capitol. Notable Industries. — The house of S. IV. Travers & Co, is famous as importers and manufacturers of fertilizers, and their brands — Orchil la. National, Capital, and B B B — are widely known and used. The general offices of the firm are at No. 1321 east Cary street At the Chemical Works, whose enormous buildings on the river bank near the Chesapeake and Ohio railway wharves have been pointed out, are manufactured some of the impor- tant chemicals used in the preparation of Travers & Com- pany’s commercial fertilizers. Visitors to Libby Hill Park, Old Stone House, and the Libby Prison site are in the immediate neighborhood of the tobacco factory of Camerons & Sizer, which is located on Twenty-fourth street, between Main and Cary, and is one of the best equipped establishments of the kind in the city, turning out plug, fine-cut, smoking tobacco, and cigarettes. The coal elevator of .S’. H. Hawes, on the river bank, near the ship -locks, is the largest enterprise of that character in the South, and is a distributing point for several States. Manchester. — Though our work is about Richmond, it would be incomplete wdthout mention of Manchester, our sister city just across the James. It is an ancient settlement, yet in its activity and progress quite youthful. Its population is about 10,000, and the people are largely engaged in man- ufactures. The water-power is of great value, though but partially employed. Here are large flour, cotton, paper, GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 65 tobacco, wooden-ware, sumac, and brick manufactories. The large and important railroad shops of the Danville and Petersburg railroad companies are located here. Petersburg. — This city (population 25,000), so often men- tioned in the bulletins of the late war, is only about twenty- two miles south of Richmond, and may be reached by four or five trains a day on the Richmond and Petersburg railroad. The ‘Crater” battle-field and the old Blandford Church are only two among a great many inducements to visit the city. The people are noted for their hospitality to strangers. Down the River. — The James river from Richmond to Newport News — its mouth — abounds in historic localities. Excursions from Richmond down to Dutch Gap (fifteen miles) are frequent, and in that little distance the following can be seen : Powhatan, seat of the Indian King Powhatan ; War- wick — now marked by a solitary chimney — a town burned by Benedict Arnold during the Revolution ; piles where the Confederates had their pontoon bridges; Drewry’s Bluff, or Fort Darling, where the Union fleet was repulsed in May, 1862, and near which a desperate battle was fought two years later; Fort Harrison, carried by assault of the Union troops September, 1864, and Dutch Gap Canal, begun by General Benjamin F. Butler in 1864, and finished by the United States Government and the city of Richmond since the war. It is five hundred feet long and two hundred feet wide, and shortens the distance between Richmond and the sea over five miles. On ‘Hhe island” or “cut-off” is the site of Henricopolis, a city laid off and fortified two hundred and fifty years ago, but soon abandoned. Two miles below Dutch Gap is Varina, in the early days of Virginia history the residence of Pocahontas and her English husband Rolfe ; late the county-seat of Henrico, and burnt by Arnold in 1781, and in the recent war the neutral ground for exchange of prisoners. 66 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. Praise of Richmond. “It is the merriest place and the most picturesque I have seen in America. — JV. M. Thackery^ in a letter hoyne, March 3, 1853. “This city hath a pleasant seat. It is high ; the James river runs below it, and when I went out an hour ago nothing was heard but the roar of the falls.’’ — Daniel Webster^ in a letter to a friend^ April 29^ 1847. “I have been treated with kindness in every part of the United States where I have resided. But it was in Rich- mond, where I spent most of the winters between 1783 and 1789, that I was received with that old proverbial Virginia hospitality to which I know no parallel anywhere within the circle of my travels.” — Albert Gallatin^ in 1848. “The town (Richmond) is delightfully situated on eight hills, overhanging James river, a sparkling stream, studded here and there with bright islands, or brawling over broken rocks.” — Charles Dickens^ in American Notes. “I never met with such an assemblage of striking and in- teresting objects as here. The town dispersed over hills of various shapes ; the river descending from west to east, and obstructed by a multitude of small islands, clumps of trees, and myriads of rocks — the same river, at the lower end of the town, bending at right angles to the south and wind- ing many miles in that direction, its polished surface caught here and there by the eye, but more frequently covered from the view by trees, among which white sails exhibit a curious and interesting spectacle ; then again, on the opposite side, Manchester, built on a hill, which sloping quickly to the river opens the whole town to view, interspersed with flour- ishing poplars, and surrounded to a great distance by green plains and stately woods, — all these objects falling at once under the eye constitute by far the most finely varied and most animated landscape I have ever seen.” — William Wirt. Confederate Directory ■ HE following, taken from an almanac of 18G5, shows where the chief offices of the Confederacy were : The Treasury Building* (formerly and now known as the Custom House) fronts on Main and Bank streets, midw'ay between Tenth and Eleventh streets. The President’s Office is on the third floor of Ihis building, first stairs to the right of Bank street entrance. The Office of the Secretary of the Treasury is on second floor, in front part— same entrance. The Register’s Office is on same floor, right hand side of Bank street entrance. The Treasurer’s Office is on first floor — entrance from Main street, opposite Farmers’ Bank. The First Auditor’s Office is in the Clifton House, in rear of the Ballard House. The Second Auditor’s Office is in the building formerly occupied as Monumental Hotel, corner of Grace and Ninth streets (now St. Claire Hotel). The Third Auditor’s Office is in the Post-Office Depart- ment, second floor (now Goddin Hall). The Comptroller’s Office is at the comer of Main and Sixth streets (Arlington House). The City Post-Office is under Spotswood Hocel, Main street (where Pace Block now is). * The building has been remodeled and enlarged since the war, yet these general directions hold good. 68 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, 8ic. The Medical Purveyor’s Office is on Pearl or Fourteenth street, between Main and Cary. The Department of State is on the third floor of the Treasury Building (Custom House) — ascend by stairs nearest Main street. The War Department Building (formerly known as Mechanics* Institute) is on Ninth street, between Main and Franklin streets. (It was burnt at the Evacuation — was at the west end of Bank street.) The Secretary of War and Adjutant- and Inspector-Gen- eral are on the first floor of the building. (See the signs.) The Post-Office Department is in the stuccoed building (Goddin Hall), cojner Bank and Eleventh streets. The Navy Department and Surgeon-General’s Office are n War Department Building, second story, right-hand side. The Ordnance Bureau and Attorney-General’s Office are on same floor, right-hand side. The Commissary-General’s Office is on south side Main street, between Ninth and Tenth. (Burnt at Evacuation.) The Quartermaster-General’s Office is at corner of Bank and Tenth streets. The Transportation Office is at the corner of Broad and Ninth streets (“Valentine House”). The Army Intelligence Office is over Bank of Virginia, Main street. (Steam’s Block is on the site.) General Gardner’s Office is in the frame building, at the corner of Capitol and Tenth streets. (Moved away to Navy Hill, where it is now a school-house.) The Provost Marshal’s Office and Passport Office in same building corner Broad and Tenth streets. The Medical Director’s Office is also in the same building. Lieutenant-General Ewell’s Office (commanding “Depart- ment of Richmond”), on Franklin street, between Sixth and Seventh. General Kemper’s Office (commanding Virginia Reserves) GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 69 is in Female Institute building, on Tenth, north of Marshall street. The War Tax Bureau is in the Richmond House (now St. Luke’s Home — Dr. Hunter McGuire’s hospital). Governor street. Persons are notified not to enter any of the offices without addressing the messengers.. Positively no persons, on or without business, received in the offices after 3 o’clock, P. M. Volunteers wishing to be transported to their companies can do so by calling at the Quartermaster’s Department in the Blues’ Hall, on Bank street, between Ninth and Tenth streets (where R. and D. R. R. Offices now are). The Government Offices open at 9 A. M., and close at 3 P. M. The Battle-Fields. pORKTOWN and Norfolk having been evacuated, the first real conflict-at-arms before Richmond was on the 15th of May, 1862, when the Union fleet, consisting of the Monitor, Galena, Aroostook, Naugatuck, Port Royal, and others, attacked the Confederate batteries at Drewry’s Bluff (Fort Darling), and after a brief but spirited contest was compelled to retire with the loss of a considerable number of killed and wounded, and several crippled vessels. The bluff is on the south side of James river, seven and a half miles south of the city, and is reached by steamer, or by vehicles by way of the Richmond and Petersburg turn- pike. It was one of the strongest positions on the lines before Richmond, and defied to the very last all assaults by land and water. Many of the earthworks are still standing, partially veiled by trees. From this point there is an extended view of the river, up and down, of Chaffin's Bluff, on the opposite side, which was also a Confederate stronghold, and of a portion of the battte-ground of May, 1864, when Gen- eral Butler tried to flank the bluff and was met and forced back by Beauregard. In the river near here the Confederate iron-clads were blown up upon the evacuation of Richmond. Remains of the military bridges which were built across the James by the Confederates are to be seen at low tide. From the deck of a New York or James river steamer excellent views may be had. Seven Pines, or Fair Oaks. — [Reached by the Seven Pines railroad ; depot at Twenty-sixth and P streets.] — On the 31st GtJIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 71 of May, 1862, the Confederates, under General Joseph E. Johnston, attacked the left wing of General McClellan’s army, which had crossed the Chickahominy in its advance upon Richmond. A heavy rain had fallen and transformed this usually insignificant stream into a broad river. The Confederates took advantage of the division of the Union forces, and. fell upon them with violence, and on that day and the next the great but indecisive battle cf Seven Pines, or Fair Oaks, was fought. On the first day General Joseph E. John- ston was wounded, and two days later General R. E. Lee succeeded to the command of the army. The two armies in the contest lost, together, about ten thousand men. The battle-field extended from Fair Oaks Station, on the Richmond and York River railroad, to a locality on the Richmond and Williamsburg stage road which for one hundred and fifty years has been known as Seven Pines. The railroad company is laying off and beautifying the grounds as a park, and propose to mark suitably and con- spicuously the chief points of interest — the line of battle of the several divisions of troops, on both sides, engaged, the places where prominent officers fell, and where General Johnston and others were wounded, and where the hardest fighting was done. The line of earthworks of the Federal forces is still plainly visible, having been but little disturbed by man or the action of time, and one Federal redoubt is particularly noticeable and interesting, the position of each gun being plainly marked by the ruts, or wheel tracks, caused by the rebound from the discharge of the guns — the earth at the time being soft from much rain. The railroad traverses a beautiful country, and passes the “Masonic Home,” lately established by the generosity of Captain A. G. Babcock, an ardent and prominent Mason ; and also passes the battle-field, breastworks and redoubts of the 72 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. battle of Fair Oaks, which was fought the day after Seven Pines. Seven Pines is eight miles from Richmond. There is a National Cemetery near the battle-field and an- other on the Williamsburg road only a mile or two from Richmond. There are numerous earthworks in this vicinity still standing. Richmond Just Before the Seven Days’ Battles.— “The merry month of May, 1862, in and around Richmond came fully up to the requirements of the poets. It was lovely, in- deed, in city and field. The fine elms of the Capitol Square drooped their spring foliage over flashing fountains, soft sward, and walks thronged with fair women and brave men ! The gay bustle of military preparation brightened the streets. New regiments with full ranks from the South marched every day through a gauntlet of cheers and waving of white hand- kerchiefs in whiter hands. Outside the city the farms, un- dreaming of devastation, smiled with springing grain and happy labor. “ ‘ From his sweet banquet, ’mid the perfumed clover, The robin soared and sung.’ “The people of the beleaguered city, on the other hand, were making little pleasure excursions, on horseback or in buggies, to the picket lines to see McClellan’s men. Four miles and a half out, on Mechanicsville turnpike, Cobb’s Georgians supported the videttes. Standing on the brow of a gentle slope and looking directly down the road across the open valley of the Chickahominy, you saw, at point-blank cannon-shot, McClellan’s troops. A mile to the right, down the stream, the Federal reconnoitering balloon hovered calmly above the woods. Few troops were visible on either side. Nothing suggested the presence of two hundred thou- sand soldiers.” The scene soon shifted, and one of the bloodiest dramas in the world’s history was enacted. GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 73 Mechanicsville. — This little village is five and a half miles northeast of Richmond, and is reached by a very straight turnpike, which leaves the city at Venable street. Here and at Ellerson’s Mill, a short distance beyond, the seven days’ battles were begun, June 26, 1862. General Lee, by massing his troops on the right of McClellan’s line, forced the latter out of his works, and to the protection of his gunboats on James river, after fighting the battles of Mechanicsville, Gaines’ Mill, Cold Harbor, Savage’s Station, Frazier’s Farm, and Malvern Hill. At the last-named place the Confederates met with a bloody check, and McClellan was thereby enabled to retire to Harrison’s Landing, farther down James river, and a campaign in which between 30,000 and 40,000 men were killed or wounded was closed. The drive to Mechanicsville is pleasant and the road good. The Chickahominy is crossed five miles from the city, and at several points traces of Confederate breastworks may be seen. Where the land is valuable to the farmers they have generally been levelled, but where it is of little use they have been allowed to stand, particularly in woods and swampy lands. Cold Harbor. — It is, of course, not the design of this work to include every field of combat in the neighborhood of Richmond, for they are numbered by dozens, if not by scores. Only the chief ones can be referred to. Cold Harbor is en- titled to particular distinction. It is about six miles below Mechanicsville, and between nine and ten from Richmond by the most direct road. On this field two great battles were fought. The first, June 27, 1862, when the Confederates, under the two Hills and Longstreet, attacked Porter and Slocum, and when Stonewall Jackson, in his celebrated flank movement from the Valley, turned the scale of victory against the Union army ; the second, on June 3, 1864, when Grant, in his movement down from Spotsylvania Courthouse and the Wilderness, was confronted by Lee, and attacking MAP OF THE BATTLE-FIELDS AROUND RICHMOND. 75 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. the latter in his entrenchments, according to Swinton, “lost 13,000 men ” in about half an hour without making a serious impression on the Confederates. In the first battle the heaviest fighting was about Mr. George Watt’s house, at ‘‘Springfield ” ; in the second, in the vicinity of Beulah church and Cold Harbor (“ Cool Arbor”). After this Grant moved on down to James river and crossed over in front of Peters- burg. To see this battle-field as it deserves, visitors should first provide themselves with competent guides, who may be pro- cured by inquiry at the Richmond hotels. Fort Harrison, Malvern Hill, Savage’s Station, &,c. — Sep- tember 29, 1864, two divisions of Butler’s corps surprised and captured Fort Harrison and attempted to carry Fort Gilmer, adjacent, but were unsuccessful. On the 30th two Confed- erate divisions endeavored to recover Fort Harrison, but were repulsed with heavy loss. This battle-ground may be easily seen from the deck of a steamer going up or down the river. So, too, the Malvern Hill battle-ground, which is some fourteen or fifteen miles from Richmond by county roads. Savage’s Station is on the Richmond and York River railroad, and is therefore easily reached. Here, on June 29th, 1862, the Confederates, under Magruder, attacked the Union troops, then retreating from Cold Harbor to James river, and inflicted upon them a heavy loss. The nearest approach of the Union forces to Richmond before they entered it was m March, 1864, when Kilpatrick, commanding a raiding party, got near the toll-gate on the Brook turnpike — a point only about one mile north of the city limits. Meeting with some resistance here, and learning that he would have a heavy battery to pass before he got into the city, he retired. The negro carriage drivers are tolerably well posted in re- gard to Confederate localities, INDEX A brief introductory account of Richmond 3 Alms House 61 Allan House (identified with Edgar Allan Poe) 46, 47 Allen & Ginter (The) Branch of the American Tobacco Company . . 16, 45 Amusements — Places of 64 Battle-Fields — Seven Pines or Fair Oaks, Meehan icsville, Ellerson’s Mill, Gaines’ Mill, Cold Harbor, Malvern Hill, Fort Harrison, etc 70, 71, 72, 73, 75 Belle Isle and the Old Dominion Iron and Nail Works 47 Belt Line 14 Branch, C. W. & Co., bankers and brokers — Office of 16 Brown, J. Thompson & Co., real estate agents and dealers — Office of, 16 Camerons & Sizer, tobacconists 64 Capitol and surroundings 24, 28, 29 Cemeteries — Hollywood 49 Jewish 61 National 62 Oakwood 40 Shockoe 61 Chamber of Commerce 19, 22 Chemical Works 40 Chesapeake and Ohio Railway 10, 12, 40, 45 Chimborazo Hill Park 38 City Hall 31, 32 Clay, Henry — Statue of 31 Clubs — List of 22 College, Medical, of Virginia 36 College, Richmond . 56 Confederate Directory of 1863 67, 68, 69 Davis (Jeff) Mansion 35 Exposition Buildings .... 54 First African Church 36 Franklin-Street Residences. . ► 53, 57, 58, 59 Executive Mansion 25 Gamble’s Hill Park 47 Hawes’ Coal Elevator ... 16, 64 Hotels— List of 22 Jackson, Stonewall — Statue of in the Capitol Square 27, 28 James River — Historic Points 65 James River Division of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway Co. . . 47 Jobbing Trade of the City 8,21 Johnson, B. F. & Co., publishers 16, 40 Landmarks of the Confederacy 32 Legislative Halls • . . . . . 29, 30, 31 Lee Monument 54 Libby Hill 36 Libby Prison Site 42 9 INDEX. 77 Library — The State 31 Library — Virginia Historical 62 Locomotive Works 61 Manchester • 64 Manufactures of Richmond and Manchester 8, 20, 21 Map of Battle-fields around Richmond 74 Marshall, Chief-Justice — Grave and former home of 61 Marshall Park 36 Masons' Hall and Masonic Temple 62 Mayo & Brother, P. H. (Incorporated) 16, 46 Miller, Joaquin — His description of Richmond 6 Monumental Church 36 Murphy’s European Hotel 16, 22 Old Stone House 42, 43 Old Dominion Steamship Company 14 Old St. John’s Church 36 Old Stove in the Capitol 30 Pace Block 45 Penitentiary (State’s prison) 47, 49 Population of Richmond, Manchester, and suburbs 8 Post-Office and Custom House 44 Praise of Richmond 66 Property — Value of, in Richmond and Manchester 8 Railroad Tonnage 22 Railroads centering at Richmond 9 Reservoir— New 52 Reservoir Park 52 Reservoir — Old, or Marshall 5C Richmond and Danville Railroad 14 Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac Railroad 9, 10, 14, 56 Richmond and West Point Terminal Company 14 Richmond — Her location, water-power, trade, advantages, etc. . . .18,19 Richmond and Petersburg Railroad 12 Soldiers’ Home 52 Soldiers' and Sailors’ Monument on Libby Hill 39 Spotswood Hotel — Site of 45 Statistics of Manufactures, Commerce, etc 8, 9 Statuary — Notable pieces in Richmond 25, 26 Steamer Lines 14 St. Luke’s Home . 62 St. Paul’s Church 32 Street-Car Routes — Prominent points they pass ... 16, 17, 18 Street Railways 15, 16, 17, 18 Table of Time and Distances from Richmond to many prominent points 15 Tobacco Exchange 62 Trade Organizations 22 Travers, S. W., & Co., Fertilizers 64 Tredegar Iron Works 47 Valentine, E. V. — Studios of 34 Valentine’s Meat Juice Works 46 Washington Monument, in the Capitol Square 25, 26 Washington — Statue of, by Houdon 28 Water-Power 18, 19 “ White House of the Confederacy ” 35 Williams, John L. & Son, bankers and brokers — Office of 16 Y. M. C. A. Hall 46 L. Williams & o, '^O/v BANKERS, Richmond, Viroinia. HIGH-GRADE INVESTMENT BONDS BOUOHT AND SOLD. LOANS NEGOTIATED FOR Municipal and Railroad Corporations. BILLS OF EXCHANGE and LETTERS OF CREDIT Issued on all the Principal Cities of EUROPE, AND ON ASIA, AFRICA, AND SOUTH AMERICA. SpeciilatiYe aM Marginal Acconnts are not desired. Our Manual of Investments, the largest work of the kind published by any Banking House in America (406 pp. 8vo.), may be obtained by clients upon application without charge. “The most elaborate and handsomest- and most useful work treating upon Southern properties which ever came to notice.” — Boston Herald. “It has no equalin this country.” — Richmond Dispatch, |V[Uf^PHV’S EUROPEfllSl HoTEU, Eighth and Broad Streets, RIOHTW^OND. - :^IRGI1S[IK. Having purchased the adjoining property, formerly known as the “Palace Hotel,” and having connected same with my former Hotel, I shall conduct the two conjointly under the name of MURPHY’S HOT EL. Both houses have been thoroughly renovated ; each room repainted and recarpeted. The sanitary arrangements have been minutely looked into and perfected. All of the Modern Improvements— Elevators, Electric Call and Return Call Bells, Incandescent Electric Lights. Rooms with or without Bath, Suites, etc. Rates as reasonable as can be had at any first-class hotel. For fur- ther information call on or address JOHN MURPHY, Owner and Proprietor. Special Rates to Excursion Parties. Date Due If you cannot find what you want, ask the Librarian who will be glad to help you. The borrower is responsible for books drawn on his card and for all fines accruing on the same. THE Jefferson AINSLIE & WEBSTER, Managers. PHOTOMOUNT PAMPHLET BINDER Manu/aeturtd by GAYLORD BROS. I«ic. Syr«ci»f«, N. Y. Siockion, Calif. 3 9031 BOSTON COLLEGE 01126790 3