■iu'V ^3 ’22 NH t 1 - y/ITH P RAWN FKQM MBNEH X purchased Ht the Expense of the George Plumer Smith Fund. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 https://archive.org/details/riverofbrokenwatOObrow o z > a z Ed OS < V tjj I >2 c £ Q LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE AND MOUNT BELKNAP New England River Series The River of Broken Waters: The Merrimack The Romance, Tradition, History, Folklore, Scenery People, Literature and Industry of “The Busiest River in the World.” By George Waldo Browne Author of “The St. Lawrence River,” “The Far East and the New America,” “Picturesque Land,” Etc. Illustrated by Frank Holland and Others 1918 STANDARD BOOK COMPANY MANCHESTER, N. H. New England River Series Now Ready: The River of Broken Waters: The Merrimack — George Waldo Browne. In Preparation: % The River of a Hundred Waterfalls: The Contoo- cook — E mma Burnham Warne. The Franconian Gateway: Region of Lost River — Makion Glendower. To Follow: The Riv r er of Romance: The Connecticut. The Grand Highway : The Horicon and Lake Cham- plain. The River from the Frozen Fountain: The Saco. (Copyright, 1918, Geokge W. Browne.) m O’NFILl library MAY 2 1 Leading Topics Pages Romance, History and Scenery - 5-33 Boating Days on the Merrimack - 34—42 The Stone Age - -- -- -- - 43-58 The Picturesque Land ------ 52-60 Literary Associations of the Merrimack - - 59-84 Scenes Along the Picturesque River (Insert) - 81-84 Mills of Manchester ------- 85-92 At the Falls of Amoskeag (Poem) - - - 97-104 Pictures from a Picture Land (Headwaters) - 105-108 A Jaunt Along the Lower River - 109-130 Appendix : Gone — An Illustrated Poem (Insert) Indian Legends of the Merrimack - - - - 1-33 Over Fifty Illustrations and Inserts. From a painting by Frank Holland HON. SAMUEL BLODGET The Pioneer of Progress in the Merrimack Valley Ct)c Wfyitt fountains; By John Greenleaf Whittier, WHITTIER has been called the Poet of Freedom, He was more than that ; he was the Poet of Nature. And nowhere has he given us finer examples of his loving touch than in his exquisite pictures of the Granite Hills, with “their sentinel sides and cloud-crowned brows,” which he painted in rare word-coloring. This was but the natural expres- sion of the true artist, for the mountains ever breathe of freedom, and their grandeur finds a hearty appreciation in him who has the sin- cere veneration for the deeply religious thoughts they awaken, and the divine lessons they teach to the honest searcher after adibing truth. In the following beautiful verses our Poet most happily ex- emplified his masterful genius.— Editor. p RAY searcher of the upper air ! There’s sunshine on thy ancient walls- A crown upon thy forehead bare — A flashing on thy water-falls — A rainbow glory in the cloud, Upon thy awful summit bowed, Dim relic of the recent storm ! And music, from the leafy shroud Which wraps in green thy giant form, Mellowed and softened from above, Steals down upon the listening ear, ' '•■turn , Ojjf to ' • ■■■' ' "■ i a «i V. ■ mRXi; — - - S- \ ■> ■ ■' -■' : ~ to ••:;•!: • . iq . • . :n :■ - r >- 0 . .ro- : -r L. •••• i: ’ • '.i- ; -A. v'; u • a\ n:\ir: j.rj: ok! -' ' ^ * ! "< r»:0O ■ yj‘! t.vi- = l&fft l if, ■■'■i ■- u. iy r • > • ■ -• '<*”»• f. >r* ; ;:?jr t-ir! ri : j? vf " '/■ ' r’i!u:.' v J-- A : i •'* ■'!'< • j: ' -> 1 - “MiO • - . 30 - =■•: " j ... ‘ ;gl jiiobi- no : s' is/H - ; / f !t aoqiJ n>vor.) A — vdt no .griictealt A .bi'olo -:•••:! ni v-cU -• A rV. ,d r: '■ fi T. f j ■< • /iij ■ J : ■; n . •••• • ; « ii; . - '• ! b(;01li2’vi£‘ji 9 fit fir;'! , j^Urtl bflA t iTr»"t 7nt.ii, nii v.wy Mi rt'.jjj’f •* ibi-riW ^.v l : > ■■ :i"vM •*. ; j n'j.'ob ciir.'Jrj >M Ji . Ul/t :■{ ( IT :• ;o mr.yK ,. 'cj : -n^ :.\.7 i . .i;>j is;.. fit- ;u;d'vtn: ?.5ii :• r. 717/ uV-'.y. oiifctnucni ' • nii.^T . faff'iff •' ‘ r; *.ff! bo 5 i i L.i; .7 * 'Of !•' v r j\->h ^n ,'.|T 3 >- \ ’ i. ! vo L.nA f 1- iff V • . : . . • L : ■ OHIO - ,■■■! i 7 : hj;f ? ru» r.f.d ai.-J:v:cm ulT ; iLO-i !' ‘Jf it ir; rn );drn ; * toil • ■ - >-;-.v-i)iJL*rn rxrnibfrrsril jfocd inTj .!loi r-tnord $r*r rft' LViow&flf. iQ -ilJU hoiriod rii: :/.■!■■■■•■ ?*Hit fff#’ V‘>;v dT --yhst” a:. ;:u rih7 (7 . -rr; sdT lEf'ixffi H Tfttb biiv/ ’ion ‘flow 7 oK »j;u«Vi r/y *.jU lagtfif- -ufll uc-rfi bnA .vyte srit O: 'V vj I.; . • n'T .bk- k tviyffty •vvitrrw: >{fr?c»n ttA ,-:»r.i07di l .•>{':!• v ;v L>r»*ios8 *{P i'D : , k : -■!; • ■ t vd f-ij'jfn-r.i- Tv In >7 V. -; • 7 ■ 4 ? n ^ ^-vh tj^ii >: o t bn& SAiJ'Ji i.b.vn . : >d .b .V fill'd .i^LO 4 UK) fa 1W? far? UlT ! , JiOTj jdf(i)fri; < I ; , : Vv’iJi yrti M'XjU 2 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS Sweet as the maiden’s dream of love, With soft tones melting on her ear. The time has been, gray mountain, when Thy shadows veiled the red man’s home ; And over crag and serpent den, And wild gorge, where the steps of men In chase or battle might not come, The mountain eagle bore on high The emblem of the free of soul ; And midway in the fearful sky Sent back the Indian’s battle-cry, Or answered to the thunder’s roll. The wigwam fires have all burned out — The moccasin hath left no track — Nor wolf nor wild-deer roam about The Saco or the Merrimack. And thou that liftest up on high Thine awful barriers to the sky, Art not the haunted mount of old, When on each crag of blasted stone Some mountain-spirit found a throne, And shrieked from out the thick cloud-fold, And answered to the Thunderer’s cry When rolled the cloud of tempest by, And jutting rock and riven branch Went down before the avalanche. The Father of our people then Upon thy awful summit trod, THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 3 And the red dwellers of the glen Bowed down before the Indian’s God. There, when His shadow veiled the sky. The Thunderer’s voice was long and loud, And the red flashes of His eye Were pictured on the o’erhanging cloud. The Spirit moveth there no more, The dwellers of the hill have gone, The sacred groves are trampled o’er, And footprints mar the altar-stone. The white man climbs thy tallest rock And hangs him from the mossy steep, Where, trembling to the cloud-fire’s shock, Thy ancient prison-walls unlock, And captive waters leap to light, And dancing down from height to height, Pass onward to the far-off deep. * Oh, sacred to the Indian seer. Gray altar of the days of old ! Still are thy rugged features dear, As when unto my infant ear The legends of the past were told. Tales of the downward sweeping flood, When bowed like reeds thy ancient wood, — Of armed hand and spectral form, Of giants in their misty shroud, And voices calling long and loud In the drear pauses of the storm ! ns;;.;* or ' To .• by* 9 ffi .at A ■ - '■) ,,uV*r ~ wOD hv vofj , />{•;. n / rvchc;!.? >iH ivy or! 1' •JV;. ? 1 '•/ t :>ri : i»i r b V ; • • O *’ < > . i i’ : I ] vfj • .< •••■?■. I '-iilT : ' ... .5 . ,ij; hi: nm ■tanihxfl bn/- >br/i i>: v;rr edrnr > i..r. otMw odl , r ; v . * •: ;n j i!V " : f ft ; ' ' ' I;ft fl ! ' -Of! A : ... . •: ■ :•/ . ...: ii f- bn A ! ■ • i - , ; d ; : :i ’ ;.[••• tor*/,:: ,rfO ‘ ! I by To 2\£d; aiftf To tirtijs \(*lQ ' ; .y? : .-(Ij OlfJ •lir. ii ;■;! jn f.t ni 7 it! c f i * . r &ti :/ &k .Oloi -inev/ ] di to £b;i v*ir*i . r!'T . T .'i i •••-■ ■, - ;.*r: . ■ :?n; rdsT v;‘ : • V : • - >/ k' ,n ur . :yyn try uiu;.i norms TO ,r. iir ii. 1 vr-iiTi ni *-Jnr.is TO ‘ : . ) i dtr; v.i’tol v;ni(ln.> bn A ! rv;vd To 20ojx.q •: wf> orit m! eltflATZ'JOl' a TIHW . < HT I II --. • - i s .:■'! z'r.zm :: . : *T I ■ I l - >jsf! 37n-ii:inuo::- in ■ s ••; ! 'if: • - -W .. ; • . * ! wt K -:'ru::r ; !;nw J -*! - ivjj? :t b&1 Silt fiiuoila t-A m; bflibni&i zi 3 *i ft griifltom tiff* still i:or!br ; j? ,v/\ 4 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS Farewell ! The red man's face is turned Toward another hunting ground ; For where the council-fire has burned, And o’er the sleeping warrior’s mound Another fire is kindled now: Its light is on the white man’s brow ! The hunter race has passed away — Ay, vanished like the morning mist, Or dew-drops by the sunshine kissed, — And wherefore should the red man stay ? ‘THE BEAUTY OF THE WILD, FREE WOODS AND FLOODS” Qtty Merrimack Ctiber The Romance, History, Scenery and Industry of the “River of Broken Waters.” j&gf HE Merrimack River was a noted stream among the aborigines long before the appearance of the North- ^ men upon the sedgy shores of Old Vinland. Among the traditions of the Abnakis was one of a “ river of broken waters,” expressed in their tongue in the form of the un- couth word, as it is spoken by us, of Kaskaashadi. Upon its banks rival tribes had for many generations contended for the supremacy. Another legend, told among the Algon- quins of the valley of the St. Lawrence, was to the effect that beyond the “ great carrying-places” ran a swift river filled with fish, and forever guarded at its northern gateway by “an old man with a stone face,” whose environments were grounds to them too sacred to be trod by warrior foot. As early as 1604, that adventurous voyager from Old France, Sieur du Monts, wrote in his accounts of dis- coveries and settlements that the “ Indians speak of a beautiful stream far to the south called by them Merremack .” The first white man who is credited with having seen this A silver band, the Merrimack Links mountain to the sea; And as it runs this story It tells to you and me. — Nellie M. Brorwne. 5 6 THE MERRIMACK RIVER river was that intrepid explorer and pioneer of New France, Samuel de Champlain, who, while sailing along the coast of New England in the summer of 1605, discovered a river on the 17th day of July, which he named “The Riviere du Gaust,” in honor of his patron, Sieur du Monts, who held a patent from the King of France for all of the country to the north and east. This stream, discovered by Cham- plain, has been claimed by many to have been the Merri- mack, though his own records would seem to show con- clusively that it was the River Charles. The traditions of the Norsemen, in the Saga of Edric, speak of a river whose descriptions indicate that they saw the Merrimack, but their pages are too vague to be accepted without a doubt. So the name of the first European to gaze upon its swift waters has not been recorded beyond dispute. According to the practice of a people without a written language, several names were given the river by the abo- rigines, each denoting some particular feature of that section. The following are among the best known, with their primitive derivations : First “ The Merrimack,” which has outlived the others, from menu, swift ; asquam, water; ack or auke , place ; that is, “swift water place.” In the pronunciation of this word or phrase the syllables “ asquam” became abbreviated to the sound of one letter — “m.” This seems to have been a frequent practice among the Amerinds, which many writers have explained erroneously by saying that a letter or sound had been “thrown in for euphony’s sake.” An uneducated people may curtail an expression, but they never add any- thing for effect. This name was probably applied originally to that portion of the river between Garvin’s Falls in Bow, N. H., and Pawtucket Falls at Lowell, Mass. Another term, which has already been mentioned, and was probably applied to the section first named, was that of Kaskaashadi, in its completeness meant literally “ the place of broken water.” SAMUEL De CHAMPLAIN. From the O’Niel copy of the Hamel Painting. THE MERRIMACK RIVER 7 Another designation applied, says Judge Potter, to that part of the river extending from Turkey Falls in Bow to the Souhegan River in Merrimack, N. H., was Namas- ket. This was derived from names , fish ; kees } high ; et , a place ; that is, “high fish place,” or “high place for fish.” This word has been spelled as many as fifty different ways, its easiest transition being from Namasket to Namoaskeag, to e Amoskeag, which survives as the name of the highest falls of the river. On account of the great number of sturgeons to be found at certain periods of the year, the river was also called Cabassauk : from cabass , a sturgeon ; auk , place ; that is, “place of the sturgeon.” Dr. Drew gives the orthography of this word as cobbossee. This term was also applied to a portion of the Kennebec River. Certain places of the river where the waters ran more gently were known as Wampineauk : from wampi, clear or sunny ; nebe, water ; auk, place ; that is, “ place of clear water,” or, as we might say, “sunny river.” Yet another poetical designation was that of Moniack : from mona , island ; ack, place ; that is, “ place of the islands.” This name was given the stream toward its mouth, though the poet makes it extend to greater limits : “ Deep in the vale old Moniack rolls his Tides, Romantic prospects crown his reverend Sides ; And thro’ w r ild Grotts and pendent Woods he strays, And ravished at the sight, his Course delays. Silent and calm — now with impetuous shock Pours his swift Torrent down the impetuous Rock ; The tumbling waves thro’ airy channels flow, And loudly roaring, smoke and foam below.” There is no doubt that the Indians had a strong at- tachment for this river, which afforded them such good facilities for fishing, and whose wooded banks were retreats for the deer and other four-footed denizens of the wild- woods. Thus it became the debatable ground between rival tribes of the warriors of the wilderness. In this valley was fought many a sanguinary battle by the Mohawks and the Abnakis, and by both against the more peaceful Pena- 8 THE MERRIMACK RIVER cooks. Upon the “brave lands” just above where the city of Concord, N. H., now stands, the last-named met their Waterloo, though so desperately and effectually did they make their final defense that it does not appear as if their long-time enemies rallied to renew the war against them. This great battle, or series of battles, with possibly one ex- ception, another contest waged by the Mohawks against the Sokokis, was the most sublime ever fought by the natives in early New England. It seems to have taken place about fifty years before the advent of the Pilgrims at Plymouth Rock. One of the consequences was the removal of the chief lodgment of the Penacooks to the smooth bluff overlooking the Merrimack within sight of Amoskeag Falls. From here, a few years later, their sachem, the noble Passaconnaway, formed his seat of government at Pawtucket. It was here Eliot found him, and, converted to Christianity, the saga- more counseled peace towards the whites among his fol- lowers. It is possible that the chief may have considered this the only safe policy, as in addition to the disasters of a long warfare with the enemy from the West, his people had been greatly reduced in numbers through the ravages of a terrible disease which had swept over the aboriginal tribes of New England a short time before the coming of the Europeans, but there was nothing in his whole course of action to throw suspicion upon his sincerity. Among the prominent leaders of his unfortunate race he stands as one of Nature’s noblemen, and his influence upon his followers was of lasting good to the English. The fate of this sachem is involved in conjecture, as no one knew where or when he disappeared from the scene of action, though it was not until he had lived more than a hundred years. There is a tradition, very vague and uncertain for even a tra- dition, that says he sought, when he felt that his end was near, the shore of Lake Massabesic, and entering his frail canoe drifted out over the placid water to return no more. THE INDIAN CHIEF. PASSACONA WAY. Statue in Edson Cemetery, Lowell, Mass. THE MERRIMACK RIVER 9 What a picturesque sight was presented by the tall, erect figure of this aged chieftain, standing upright in the centre of his fragile craft, while it was slowly wafted by the rip- pling tide away from the pine-fronded landscape which swiftly vanished before the incoming of the pale-faces, but whose going out was slower than the disappearance of that race of which he was a grand representative. Passaconnaway was succeeded by his son Wannalan- cet, who proved worthy to wear the mantle of his proud father. After a few years he departed from the Merrimack valley with the remnant of his tribe to join the Indians from Maine and elsewhere who had sought the protection of the French at the missionary settlement of St. Francis, in New France. There is nothing to show that these warriors, to any extent, aided the French in their move- ments against the English. Wannalancet himself soon re- turned to visit the scenes of his earlier life, where he finally died and was buried, it is believed, in the private cemetery of the Tyng family, in the present town of Tyngsboro, Mass. It is pleasant to note that the Massachusetts Society of Colonial Dames have placed upon one of the boulders lying near the colonial mansion house occupied by Colonel Jonathan Tyng, where the last of the Penacook sachems passed his closing years, a memorial tablet properly inscribed. In the Edson cemetery of Lowell is a statue with granite base erected to the memory of his father, Passaconnaway. Though a solitary red man, from time to time, returned to look with mournful gaze upon the disappearing forests of his forefathers as late as 1750, without grievous license years before this the poet could exclaim : “ By thy fair stream The red man roams no more. No more he snares The artful trout, or lordly salmons spear ; No more his swift- winged arrow strikes the deer.” The foremost of that race which was to prove the con- querors of his people settled in the Merrimack valley seven 10 THE MERRIMACK RIVER years after the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth. While springing from the same source as the other colony, this band was ushered in upon the primeval scene under more favorable auspices, and was destined to become more prosperous and far-reaching in its enterprises. While the former was composed of men who had never enjoyed the advantages of wealth and opulence, but were of austere principle, among these last came some of the best blood of England. They were men of education, talent, good standing, who had been able to obtain official recognition from the Court of London at the outset. Having associ- ated themselves together as “ The Massachusetts Colony,” their charter granted March 19, 1627-8, by the Royal Coun- cil, fixed their boundary as all of that “part of New Eng- land, in America, which lyes and extends between a great river there commonly called ‘ Monoack’ alias ‘ Meremack,’ & a certain other river called Charles river, being in the bottom of a certain bay here commonly called Massachu- setts bay & also all and singular those lands and heredita- ments whatsoever lying within the space of three English miles on the south part of said Charles River, &c. And also all & singular the lands and hereditaments whatsoever which lye, & be within the space of three English miles to the Northward of said river called ‘ Monomack,’ alias * Merrymack,’ or to the northward of any and every part thereof : And all lands & c lying within the limit aforesaid from the Atlantic Ocean to the South Sea.” Vague and imperfect as this boundary must appear to the careful reader, it proved too misleading to safeguard the interests of the colonists settled in the territory named, and for many years the boundary line was a “ bone of conten- tion” between certain factions that came into existence in the provinces. It was taken for granted at this period that the Merrimack came from the west its entire course. Among the immigrants attracted to the new country only ten years after the beginning of the colonization was a THE FRENCH FLAG IN THE TIME OF CHAMPLAIN THE MERRIMACK RIVER 11 little company of farmers, smiths, carpenters, and weavers, counting sixty families, who came from Western England in 1637, and builded a cluster of homes in Rowley, Mass. While the husbandmen busied themselves about their clearings in the wilderness, the smiths and carpenters erected a mill, and here the weavers wove the first cotton cloth in the colonies. As early as this the colonists began to complain that they were “straitened for want of land.” Hubbard, the historian of those times, says that Ipswich was so overrun with people that they swarmed to other places. Out of the demand for “further farms” came an order from the Massa- chusetts courts in 1638 to explore the Merrimack River to its source, supposed to have been fixed by the charter given the company. This, the first survey of the Merrimack River, was made by a man named Woodward, with four companions, one of whom was an Indian, and another a youth of fifteen, who was the author of the first map of the region explored in the autumn of 1638. The young map- maker was named John Gardner, and the brave little party which he accompanied penetrated the trackless wilderness of the Merrimack valley nearly as far as Lake Winnepesau- kee. Upon this survey were based the calculations of that better known and more permanent work performed by a commission appointecl by the Massachusetts courts in 1652. This was composed of Captain Symon Willard and Captain Edward Johnson, both men of prominence in those days, the latter being the author of “ Wonder Working Provi- dence of Zion’s Savior in New England.” These commis- sioners selected as assistants, Jonathan Ince, a graduate of Harvard College only two years before, and John Sherman, a surveyor of note, and great-grandfather of Roger Sher- man, one of the signers of the Declaration of Indepen- dence. While there is a doubt expressed as to whether the first commission really reached the headwaters of the Merri- mack, and its bounds were only claimed to have been 12 THE MERRIMACK RIVER marked by a spotted tree, Captain Willard’s party left a very substantial monument of their work in what has become known as “Endicott Rock,” which stands at the Weirs, in the town of Laconia, preserved and protected by a special appropriation from the state of New Hampshire. Upon reaching the forks of the Pemigewassett and Winnepesaukee rivers, which unite their offerings brought from mountain and lake to form the Merrimack, the com- missioners were doubtful as to the true stream for them to follow. They referred the matter to the Indians, who de- clared that the real Merrimack was the easterly branch flowing from “ the beautiful lake of the highlands.” If this was the conclusion of the aboriginal inhabitants of the country, the westerly fork is none the less deserving of de- scription, and certainly has a good claim to being considered a part of the main river. Its source is a sheet of crystal water springing from the heart of the White Hills, far up on the eastern slope of what is still an unexplored wilder- ness. Running around natural barriers strewn along its pathway by a prodigal hand, this mountain rivulet pursues its lonely course for a few miles, when it is joined by another stream, which is also the outlet of a beautiful lake- let. Now one this happy twain leap cascades, dash around boulders, loiter in cool retreats, overhung by leafy bowers, fit retreats for the naiads of the forest fastness, receiving tributary after tributary until it has increased in volume and becomes dignified by the name of “ river.” For forty miles it flows through massive gateways, shut in by moun- tain walls that lift high their granite fronts in a country wild and picturesque almost beyond the power of descrip- tion, when, at the foot of the famous Franconia Notch, it suddenly bursts into sunlight and into the world dazzled and dazzling. In its bewildering career it has scaled “Grand Falls,” rightly named as the most magnificent waterfall in New England ; it has run the gantlet of that stupendous WHERE THE ROCKS ARE FRINGED WITH SNOWY LACEWORK." THE MERRIMACK RIVER 13 gorge known as “The Flume;” flies the frown of “The Old Man of the Mountains and fringes with snowy lace- work the rim of “Agassiz Basin,” said by the red men to have been the bathing pool where the goddess of the moun- tains sought seclusion in the days when the gods wed with the daughters of m,en. This branch of the Merrimack, the Pemigewasset, passes through or touches and drains in part or all, over thirty towns, an area of nearly nine hun- dred square miles. The Pemigewasset is joined just above Plymouth vil- lage by the historic stream known as Baker’s River, so named in honor of Captain Thomas Baker of Northamp- ton, Mass., who penetrated into this region with a scouting party in the summer of 1719 or 1720. Near the junction of this stream and the Pemigewasset Captain Baker and his men had a short but sharp fight with a body of Indians hunting in that vicinity. Though repulsing the red men in the opening battle the whites, acting under the advice of their guide, a friendly Indian, beat a retreat towards the Connecticut River, which they had ascended in reaching this country. Another border incident, worthy of note, was the surprise and capture by Indians of John Stark, afterwards of Revolutionary fame, but then a young man hunting for pelts ^ith three companions, one of whom named William Stinson was killed, one escaped, while the third was taken captive with Stark. In the days of aboriginal occupancy of the country by the Amerinds this river, known to them as “ winding waters,” was a noted trail followed by many a hunting party and bands of warriors in their transit between the valley of the Merri- mack and the northern country. The north branch of this river, for like most of these mountain streams it is formed of two forks, has its source in the Moosehillock heights, from whence it flows through Warren to join its mate com- ing from the west, continuing southerly through Rumney and a section of Plymouth. It is thirty miles in length. 14 THE MERRIMACK RIVER The eastern branch of the Merrimack, known by the name of the beautiful “lake of the highlands,” which is its source, drains in part or entirely fifteen towns and with the lake receives the drainage of over 560 square miles. It has a descent of 235 feet before joining the Pemigewasset at Franklin, and affords excellent water privileges. It flows between Laconia and Gilford, forms that beautiful sheet of water, Lake Winnesquam, divides Tilton and Belmont, cuts off a corner of Northfield and another of Tilton before los- ing its identity in uniting with its sister stream to form the true Merrimack. The principal tributaries of the Merrimack call for the mention of the Contoocook River, which rises near the Massachusetts line, and after flowing in a northerly course for about eighty miles empties into the Merrimack at Pen- acook. This stream affords excellent water privileges at Jaffrey, Peterborough Harrisville on the Nubemensit, Bennington, Antrim, Hillsborough, Henniker, Contoocook and Penacook, and flows through thirty-two towns, parts of two states, five counties, and drains a territory of over seven hundred square miles. On the left bank of the Merrimack, as it winds down- ward to the sea, the first tributary of note is Turkey River, which finds its source in Loudon and Gilmanton and enters the main river just above Garvin’s Falls, from whence Manchester Traction, Light and Power Co. has equipped one of the best plants in New England. This stream is the one down which Hannah Dustin fled in her canoe upon her memorable escape from the Indians at that spot now marked by a monument at East Concord. Another stream that joins the Merrimack a little below is the Suncook, whose name in the Indian tongue meant “place of the loon.” The true source of this river is a pond in Gilford and Gilmanton, from whence it flows in a southerly direction for about thirty miles, receiving the waters of several other ponds on its way, among them the * THE MERRIMACK RIVER 15 Suncook Pond in Northwood, and Pleasant Pond in Deer- field. It drains a basin of one hundred and thirty miles, and has a utilized capacity of over three thousand horse power. The next in order, but entering upon the right bank less than a mile below the falls of Amoskeag, is the Piscat- aquog River, which has its principal source in the southern part of Henniker and the northwesterly section of Deer- ing. This stream flows in a southeasterly direction, and its rapid current affords considerable motive power for ma- chinery. Just below the mouth of this tributary, and entering upon the opposite bank, the Cohas brook, which flows in a westerly course for about five miles, joins the Merrimack at Goffe’s Falls, furnishing at this bustling village the power for the mills located here. If brief in its career this stream is the outlet of the largest body of water in south- ern New Hampshire, Lake Massabesic, famous in the days of the aborigines as the best fishing ground in this vicinity, and noted now as a summer resort. Many an Indian le- gend clusters about this charming and picturesque lake, known to them in their romantic associations as “ the eyes of the sky.” Next in importance is the Souhegan, having its source in a pond in Ashburnham, Mass., and after flowing north- erly for thirty-five miles joins the Merrimack in a town by the name of the latter river. It drains in whole or part of eleven towns and an area of one hundred and fifty thous- and acres of country. Its power affords life for the manu- factories of New Ipswich, Greenville, Wilton, Milford and Merrimack, all in New Hampshire. The Nashua River, which gives its name to the third city in the state, is another tributary which finds its source in the watershed of northern Massachusetts, about midway between Rhode Island and New Hampshire. It follows a northerly course until reaching the state line, when it 16 THE MERRIMACK RIVER makes a sweep and runs for several miles in an opposite di- rection to that of the larger river which receives its waters at Nashua. Next to the Contoocook, this is the most im- portant tributary to the Merrimack, and drains historic ground. Where the truthfulness of details becomes dim and history uncertain, legend and tradition blend, lending to the tangible shadows of the past the romance of reality. This river was beloved by the Indians ; here they fished and hunted to their unbounded gratification ; here they tilled their fields of maize and melons ; and here they laid their rude hearthstones, held their councils of primeval government, wooed their dusky mates, kept their festivals, and vanished before the coming of the white settlers. This river furnishes the power for the mills of Fitchburg, Clinton, Shirley and Peppered, Mass., and those of Nashua, N. H. Salmon River is a smaller stream rising in Groton, Massachusetts, to enter the Merrimack a little above the city of Lowell. Within this city yet another river, if not large as it is traced upon the map, yet great in historic in- terest, the Concord, formed of two streams which unite in the town which gives it a name, finds the Merrimack. The Spicket River, rising in Hampstead and Derry, N. H., flows southerly through Salem and Methuen, where it af- fords good water privileges, becomes a tributary to the Merrimack at Lawrence. Little River has its source in Plaistow and Atkinson, N. H., to enter the larger river at Haverhill, where it furnishes excellent water power. The Powow, immortalized by the poet of the Merrimack, Whit- tier, has its source in a cluster of beautiful gems of water in Kingston, N. H., flows through a corner of East Kingston into South Hampton, and falls into the Merrimack between Amesbury and Salisbury, Mass., after favoring the former place with a fine water power. The Amesbury Ferry, noted for its Revolutionary associations, begins at the rough stone bridge spanning the Powow. A chain ferry in the “ days “MOORED ON ITS CALM SURFACE AN ISLAND” THE MERRIMACK RIVER IT that tried men’s souls ” found a terminus here, with a tav- ern and hostelry for the accommodation of the traveller. The old house is still standing, an interesting relic of by gone days, while the road branches into two, one leading in- to the thriving village of Amesbury Mills, and the other seeking the north bank of the Merrimack winds up to Hav- erhill. Washington crossed this ferry in 1789, upon his visit to New England, and he stopped to rest at the old tavern mentioned. The wharf has become grass-grown, and only a pile of stones carpeted with greensward remains to speak of the primitive way of crossing the river. Below the bustling manufacturing town of Amesbury, which was taken from Salisbury in 1668, there is much fine scenery, and historic memories cluster about every section of the country. Salisbury is noted for its beautiful beach, and originally bore the same name as the river which forms its southern boundary, the Merrimack. It re- ceived its present name in 1640, having been known for the previous year as Colchester. In 1643, with the plantations of New Hampshire, Hampton, Exeter, Portsmouth and Dover, it helped form with Haverhill, Mass., the territory of Old Norfolk County. It was the shire town of the county until New Hampshire was again separated and formed into a royal government, in 1679. “ Ould Newberry,” the mother of towns, situated upon the south bank of the Merrimack, was settled by the whites in the spring of 1635. The Indians had long kept a lodgment here known as Quasacunquen, signifying in their tongue a “waterfall.” West Newbury, a good farming town, was separated from Newbury in 1819. A little over half a century before, in 1764, that one-time port of for- eign trade, which was carried on here quite extensively, Newburyport, situated at the mouth of the Merrimack, had been similarly favored. Shipping has been seriously im- peded by the bar at the outlet of the river, which like the “great river” of China seems determined to protect itself 18 THE MERRIMACK RIVER from the sea, but fishing and ship building have received considerable attention. Manufacturing has been followed to a considerable extent. This is probably the smallest town in area in the United States, being about two miles in length and one-fourth of a mile in breadth, in its popu- lated territory, and contains barely one square mile in its entire extent. This town became noted a hundred years ago for its ship-building, being especially well situated for this enterprise. It is claimed that a hundred vessels have been in progress of construction at its piers at one time. As noted as this vicinity is for its remarkable coast scenery, one of its most prominent features is the sand bar thrown across the mouth of the river by that busy builder itself, as if it would seek protection from the hun- gry ocean forever seeking to devour it. This exposed out- post, barely half a mile in width, extends for over nine miles parallel with the coast. A few adventurous home- seekers have built their houses upon its inhospitable shores, but it is almost entirely without tree or shrub, and its suf- fering vegetation lies half smothered in the parti-colored sands, which are continually drifting over it and as con- stantly fleeing away as much at the mercy of the wind as the snows of winter. One shrub, the beach plum, which gives name to the island, braves the elements to an extent which attracts crowds to the place in the early autumn, seeking its fruit which is very palatable. The wind has kneaded and worked over the fine particles composing this remarkable plot of terra Jirma , which does not deserve in its fullest sense this term, into many fantastic shapes. It has builded on its shores, at their greatest altitude not over twenty feet, miniature bluffs of most grim aspect, and scal- loped from its lean banks graceful hillsides and long ridges of sand, curved and twisted like the spines of so many monsters of the deep. Over these naked places a species of sea moss modestly twines its tremulous drapery, while the delicate beach pea, looking sweeter for its dreary set- THE MERRIMACK RIVER 19 ting, flings a mantle of green over the gray sand. But, if treated niggardly by nature, this island has been espec- ially fortunate in having for its admirers such chroniclers as Whittier and Thoreau. There is good reason for believing that the original course of the Merrimack after reaching Lowell, where it now makes a sharp bend toward the north and east, was more southerly than at present, and that it entered the sea near where Boston is now built. The change was due to obstructions filling in the old channel, and making it easier for the great volume of water of that period to cut a new passage than to clear the old. This doubtless took place at or near the close of the glacial epoch. As it runs to-day, including its tributaries, the Merri- mack drains a territory in New Hampshire and Massachu- setts of nearly five thousand square miles, and forms one of the most important river basins in the United States, the density of its population being equalled only by the valleys of the Delaware and the Housatonic. The number of its inhabitants according to the latest official returns is approximately three-fourths of a million (750,000) or 150 persons to a square mile. The river and its tributaries has improved water privileges amounting to one hundred thous- and horse power, of which more than one half is in New Hampshire. It is claimed that its waters turn more ma- chinery than any other river in the world. Its importance as a manufacturing factor is shown in the estimate that one-sixth of all the cotton and woolen carpets; one-fifth of all the woolen and cotton and woolen goods ; and over one- fourth of all the cotton fabrics, manufactured in the United States, are made in the valley of the Merrimack and its tributaries. Of the eleven cities, most benefited by the river, we find that their interest reaches enormous fig- ures, divided in round numbers, as follows, the first five be- ing’located in New Hampshire: Laconia, $2,389, 202; Frank- lin, $1,708,889; Concord, $5,357,408 ; Manchester, $26,607,- 20 THE MERRIMACK RIVER 600; Nashua, $11,037,676; Lowell, $44,772,525; Law- rence. $44,703,278; Haverhill, $24,937,073; Amesbury, $3,- 898,251 ; Newburyport, $5,685,768. Of course, it is to be understood that all of the power to carry on this great stroke of industry is not furnished directly by the Merri- mack, but that river is the direct stimulus which has caused these places to become the great manufacturing centers they now are. As is the case with New Hampshire, Mas- sachusetts has many smaller places scattered along the Merrimack and its tributaries which have become manu- facturing centers, where many thousand dollars’ worth of goods are annually made. We find the history of the Merrimack and its basin eas- ily divided into two periods, the period of the pioneers and that of progress in manufacture. The first was fruitful of incidents enough to fill a volume that would read more like romance than history. A few years following of the Mas- sachusetts Bay colonists, in the vicinity of Salem, a little company of men from Yorkshire, England, plain, industri- ous tillers of the soil, came to New England to try their fortune in the great untrodden wilderness reaching from the outlet to the source of the Merrimack. With the ex- ception of a collection of the red men here and there upon the lower section of the river, either part of or belonging to thePenacook Indians, the valley was free from the presence of the dusky hunter or fisher. The principal lodge of these aborigines was at Pawtucket, just above Lowell and these the new-comers placated with gifts and deeds of kindness. So the hardy Yorkshiremen went onward with their work of colonization, until here and there a little meeting house arose in this primeval wilderness, surrounded by stockades of smooth, strong poles driven into the ground and stand- ing about twice the height of a tall man. Around these humble places of worship gathered the rude cabins forming the first homes of the Merrimack valley. The simple sons of the forest vanished from the pathway of these new-comers like dew before the morning sun. FROM MOUNTAIN TO SKA THE MERRIMACK RIVER 21 Wannalancet, the last great sachem at Pawtucket, finally withdrew the remnant of his flock to the rendezvous at St. Francis, in Canada. There were left then the wandering tribes of warriors, incited to bitterness against the English by the French, to be met and overcome in hand-to-hand grapples, where cunning more often than strength was pitted in the fray. The first settlement made within the valley as far north as the line of New Hampshire, was made in what became known as Old Dunstable, and from this settlement, upon Salmon Brook, was not only a lookout es- tablished, but from this outpost scouting party after party was sent to hunt down the enemy, that never seemed to sleep from the beginning of King Philip's war, in 1675, to the closing of the cruel drama upon the meadows of the Saco, when Lovewell and his men found victory in defeat, May 8, 1725. The Indian wars practically closed in the lower section of the river, that bitter contention between the white colon- ists of the two provinces, Massachusetts and New Hamp- shire, known as the “ boundary dispute,” opened in earnest, and lasted until 1741. This dispute arose over the miscon- ception already mentioned, thinking that the Merrimack arose directly in the west and flowed continuously toward the east. During t-he “boundary war” Massachusetts granted several townships in what is now the territory of New Hampshire, but these were finally lost to the grant- ees. At this time, and for fifty years or more later, the build- ing of homes and the clearing of the wilderness for farms were the prevailing thoughts. As it had been the favorite hunting ground of the red men, so did it hold exceptional advantages and promises to the husbandman. No one then dreamed of the latent power in its rapids and waterfalls. But already the coming factor in the progress of mankind had made its beginning. At the same time the courts of the rival provinces were finally coming to an amicable set- THE MERRIMACK RIVER 22 tlement of the boundary dispute, manufacturing was be- gun at Manchester, England, and machinery for the man- ufacture of cotton and woolen goods invented. The first patent for a spinning machine was given in 1738, in England, to Lewis Paul ; then followed ten years later his invention of cylinder carding machine. In 1769, Richard Arkwright received a patent for his spinning frame, and in 1785 the Rev. Samuel Cartwright took out his patent for a power loom. Four years later steam power was first applied to manufacturing purposes. These inven- tions were preceeded and followed by others of scarcely less importance, until a system of factory enterprises came to revolutionize the situation in the Merrimack valley, and give it that place in the industrial world to which it right- fully belongs. Cotton manufacture was begun in Beverly, in 1785, while manufactures of this kind started elsewhere in the United States. But it was not until 1793, when Eli Whitney gave to the world his cotton gin, that the manu- facture of cotton was begun in earnest. The first manu- facturing in the Merrimack Valley, properly speaking, seems to have been inaugurated in 1801, by Moses Hale. Before I speak more fully of the growth of manufac- ture on the Merrimack I wish to refer to another industry that was attracting considerable attention. This was boat- ing upon the river. That was a period of rapid improve- ment. Boston was becoming a thriving town of twenty thousand inhabitants, and there were suburbs that only needed the stimulus of trade to give them power and pros- perity. The valley of the Merrimack, far up into New Hamp- shire, even if sparsely settled, promised a rich harvest of trade to the centers which could draw it. Better means of communication was thus the vital question. Turnpikes were builded through the country, but while these were an im- provement over the poor roads hitnerto existing, slow-going ox-teams were the main dependence for power of transit. Transportation thus not only became tedious, but it was expensive. THE MERRIMACK RIVER 23 At this time the Hon. James Sullivan projected the Middlesex canal, which offered easy connection between Lowell and Boston, by following almost identically the course believed to have once been the pathway of the river. Among the foremost men of the period, who stood for the development of the country, was the Hon. Samuel Blodget, a native of Woburn, but at this time in business in Haverhill. He had already foreseen that the Merrimack was possible of becomming a maritime highway certain to benefit not only the producer and the consumer, but was sure to bring the promoter a handsome reward for his investments and exertions. Though now a man who had arrived at an age when most men are laying aside the burdens and responsibilities of business, he formed his plans with the sanguineness of a young man with all the world before him. He conceived the purpose of making the river navigable as far, at least, as Concord, with a pos- sibility that it might be opened to the lake. In order to do this the falls must be surmounted by canals, the greatest of which would be that at Amoskeag, which has a perpen- dicular measurement of forty- five feet. Upon May 2, 1793, he began work on the canals at that place, meeting with obstacles that must have disheartened a less courageous heart ; exhausting his own means, and calling upon others for assistance, so that on May 1, 1807, he completed his noble work. Other canals were built, though of less size, and the river was opened as far as Concord, N. H., to be- come the most popular route for moving merchandise be- tween Boston and the towns of the north. With the river boatmen sprang into service a new phase of life, exciting, profitable and strenuous, building up a set of characters noted for their hardihood. Passenger packets beginning to run from Lowell to the sea during this period, the last of these disappeared about 1838. Judge Blodget died in September, 1807, but he has left the impress of his energetic power upon the locality where 24 THE MERRIMACK RIVER he had spent his last years. He, with General John Stark of Revolutionary fame, built the first saw mill above the falls, and seeing possibilities of the waterfall he laid the foundation toward building up that great manufacturing in- terest later entered into by the great company known the world over as the Amoskeag Manufacturing Company. He suggested the coming city should be named after that al- ready growing center of industry, Manchester, England. In the midst of the growing business of both river and turnpike, a new motor of transportation appeared upon the scene, when, in 1842, the iron horse came up the valley puffing and shrieking like mad, to the surprised beholders, but a conqueror of time and speed. With the success of the railroad the remarkable progress of the string of manufacturing cities on the Merrimack continued with in- creasing prosperity. Since 1850, only a few years more than half a century, Manchester, Nashua, Lowell, Law- rence, Haverhill, to say nothing of the remaining cities, have flourished beyond what could have been the prediction of the most sanguine person. In this same period the steam engine has pushed its way steadily out from the main river, until now it runs along the banks of all but three of its trib- utaries, following on almost to their sources. Of the hun- dred or more towns in New Hampshire that are drained by these streams there is scarcely a dozen which is not banded by the iron rails, while the total length of these roads in this state is over five hundred miles. Massachusetts has been even more fortunate in this respect. In addition to this, the electric motor has found its way as far north as the valley of the Pemigewasset, except for a link soon to be built between Nashua and Manchester, N. H., making an endless chain from the sea to the mountains. Trolley lines have penetrated into many of the adjoining towns, bringing them within close touch of the river of progress. Besides being a manufacturing district, the Merrimack Valley is a beautiful agricultural country, and some of the LOOKING NORTH FROM HOOKSETT PINNACLE THE MERRIMACK RIVER 25 finest homesteads in New England have been developed from the clearings of the pioneers one hundred and fifty years ago. Its scenery of hills and vales, lakes and moun- tains, entwined with bands of silvery streams, is equal to any found upon the slopes of the Appalachian chain of high- lands. And the chief attraction to-day, as it was at its period of its primeval glory, is the red man’s Merrimack, “river of broken waters,” the busiest, merriest, noblest water-way in New England. Dashing with child-like glee from whence “ The pine-trees lean above its cradle, laid Deep under tangled roots and mossy sod, Where mountains lift their faces unafraid Thro sun and starlight to the face of God,” gliding swiftly over pebble-strewn beds, winding through rich meadows like a silver thread in the green vestment of Nature, flinging its legions of snowy caps tossed high in the air over rocky stairways, making a descent of six thou- sand feet in two hundred miles, it seeks the sea and rests with the calmness of old age. The constant song of its rushing current is the eternal melody of industry ; the un- ending roar of its waterfalls, the voice that calls men to work in thunder tones. It turns more factory wheels, lights more forge fires, swings more hammers, keeps busy more hands of art and toil than any other river that runs to the sea. The products of its looms have been sent to every clime ; its cot- ton cloths and woolen goods have been the raiment of many races of men ; its iron and steel the building material of city and country ; its tools and machinery the strong helpers on farm and in work shop, at home and abroad ; stout ships plow the watery highway of the deep laden with its com- merce, while the triumphant whistle of the iron horse has awakened the solitude of far-distant lands. 'Cf )c Jpirgt ^urbep of tfje J^Errimacfe FEW years since a most interesting document was found among the old papers of Essex county, which is undoubtedly the oldest map or plan of the Merrimack valley in existence. It is inscribed as follows : “Plat of Meremack River from ye See up to Wenepe- soce Pond, also the Corses from Dunstable to Penny-cook. Jno. Gardner.” While without date or explanatory papers, it is evi- dently the plan of the first survey of the Merrimack River from the sea to its source. This survey was probably made in 1638, as May 22, 1639, we find the court allowing one Woodward the sum of three pounds “for his journey to discover the running of the Merrimack,” while four others who went with him were allowed “5s. a day apiece.” The Governor and his deputies, evidently thinking the principal in the affair had been insufficiently paid, ordered him ten shillings more. This is in accordance with an order of the General Court of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, made in July, 1638, which authorized the above-mentioned Wood- ward, with three others besides an Indian guide, “to lay out the line three miles northward of the most northermost part of Merrimack.” The name of John Gardner does not appear in either order, but the identity of the surveyor and his important connection with the expedition is clearly shown by the local records. He was the son of Thomas Gardner, who was born in 1 592, and whose ancestral home was evidently in 26 THE MERRIMACK RIVER 27 Dorsetshire, Eng., though it has been claimed that he came to this country from Scotland. For further particulars of the connection of these fam- ilies see Dr. Gardner’s valuable article published by the Salem Institute, Historical Collection, Vol. XXXVII, en- titled, “ Thomas Gardner, Planter, and Some of His De- scendants.” He had connected himself with a body of men in Dor- chester, known afterward as “The Cape Ann Planters,” but styled then as “The Dorchester Company,” who had organized to settle a colony on Cape Ann. This company landed in 1624, on the west side of what is now known as Gloucester harbor, but it proved that the soil and the advan- tages of the place were unequal to forming a successful plantation. The leaders of the company, who were still in England, discredited the unpopular report, and secured in Roger Conant a new manager for the colony. But he soon came to dislike the place as much as the others, and in 1626 our Thomas Gardner obtained permis- sion to remove the little disheartened colony to the mouth of Naumkeag river. Some of the most discouraged re- turned in their disappointment to their native land, but the boldest and most sanguine, under the efficient leadership of Thomas Gardner, entered upon their new venture with earnest purpose, and this hardy little band became the founders of Salem. As has been aptly remarked, scant credit has been bestowed upon them by the historians of early New England. In his capacity as overseer of the plantation at Cape Ann, Thomas Gardner was in truth the first man in authority within that territory, since widely known as “The Massachusetts Bay Colony.” He was one of the original members of the first church in Salem; he was made a free man in 1637, and also elected a deputy to the General Court. For many years prominent in the affairs of the growing commonwealth, he died in 1674, leav- ing an estate of several hnndred acres of land, considerable of it obtained from grants received for public services, 28 THE MERRIMACK RIVER His wife is supposed to have been a sister of the famous Puritan divine, Rev. John White. John Gardner, the surveyor and justice, was born in 1624, of this parentage, in the year of the landing of the Cape Ann Planters in the new country. This was four years before the coming of Endicott. The first mention of his name was made in the records of the General Court at Boston, in 1639, when “The treasurer was ordered to pay John Gardner 20s for witness charge & carrying Goodman Woodward his instruments to Ipswich.” It will thus be seen that he early became acquainted with that work he so often undertook later in life. This, it will be observed, was the year following the survey of the Merrimack, and it is quite certain that young Gardner was a chain bearer for Surveyor Woodward, upon that first survey of the Merri- mack, though his name is not mentioned. This does not destroy the evidence, however, as the names of Woodward’s companions are not all given in the records. If one were omitted it would be most likely that of the boy of the expe- dition, though that same lad was to become afterwards the means of perpetuating the results of that undertaking. In the following years the name of John Gardner appears quite frequently in the records of those times as surveyor, juror, selectman and as justice of the peace for a long period. He lived for many years in a house standing on what is now Essex street, well down toward the water. He married Priscilla Grafton, daughter of Joseph Grafton of Salem, and a prominent family in Colonial days. She was the mother of six daughters and one son, dying, it is believed, in 1717. John Gardner died in 1706, full of years and honors, and was buried in the burial ground on “Forefathers Hill,” near the present pumping station. According to Dr. Gard- ner’s article, already referred to, “ the original gravestone is still in existence, but is kept at present in the old Coffin house known as the ‘horse-shoe house.’ ” This stone, which had marked the spot for seventy-five years, was removed for From a painting by Frank Holland. Moonlight on the Merrimack, Showing the Flight of Hannah Dustin. THE MERRIMACK RIVER 29 preservation in 1881, and was replaced by a substantial granite stone with the following inscription, a copy of the original: “Here lyes buried ye body of John Gardner, Esq., aged 82 who died May, 1706.” Having said so much of the actors in the affairs, let us glance at the situation and the causes which led to the sur- vey. Endicott, already selected by the London Company to be Governor of the colony, arrived in 1628. The Gen- eral Court of London had anticipated the permanent organ- ization of the colonists by declaring: “That thirteen of such as shall be reputed the most wyse, honest, expert and discreet persons, residents upon the Plantaceon, shall have the sole managing and ordering of the government and our affairs there, who to the best of their judgment are to endeavor to settle the same as they may make most for the Glory of God, the furtherance and advancement of this hopeful Plantaceon, the comfort, encouragement and future benefit of us and others, the beginners and promoters of this so laudable worke.” Unfortunately the records of those early years are lost, but future events show conclusively that the colo- nists lived fully up to the demands and expectations of the promoters of the settlement. The choice of John Endicott for governor proved a happy one, and no doubt insured much toward the ultimate success of the enterprise. It has been well said that “possessing positive traits of character, unflinching firmness united with great executive ability, he overcame difficulties that beset him on every side, and suc- ceeded in the accomplishment of the most important trust ever entrusted to any one person, the laying of the founda- tion and shaping the institutions of the New World.” As paradoxical as it may seem at this day, in the course of a decade the colonists represented themselves as “straightened for the want of land.” Hubbard, the his- torian of those times, says that Ipswich was so overrun with people that they swarmed to other places. Out of the demand for “further farms ” came the order by the courts in 30 THE MERRIMACK RIVER 1638 to explore the valley of the Merrimack river to the limits of the northern boundary supposed to have been fixed by charter granted to the Massachusetts Bay Com- pany. According to the records of the company this was as follows : “Bounds of that part of New England, in America, which lies and extends between a great river there com- monly called ‘Monoack’ alias ‘Meremack’ & a certain other river there called Charles river, being in the bottom of a certain bay here commonly called Massachusetts bay & also all and singular those lands and here diaments what- soever lying within the space of three English miles on the south part of said Charles River, & c. “And also all singular the lands and pereditaments whatsoever which lie, & be within the space of three Eng- lish miles to the Northward of said river Called ‘Mono- mack,’ alias ‘Merrymack,’ or to the northward of any and every part thereof : And all lands &c. lying within the limit aforesaid, &c., &c.” As yet the colonists could have had only the most vague conceptions concerning the course of the river which had been selected to become the continuous guide by which to establish the northern boundary. That it was necessary to carry out such a survey is evident, and the inhabitants of Naumkeag were especially anxious to further this explor- ation, as well as the survey of the unknown regions beyond them. That it was an undertaking fraught with danger did not for a moment cause those adventurous spirits to hesi- tate. Already had new plantations been established as far as Agawam, now Springfield, on the west, and Casco Bay settlement on the east. The only thing to hinder them from laying out new plantations in the desirable territory of the Merrimack valley was the settlement of the line. Accordingly, in answer to a petition from them, the Gen- eral Court at Boston, on July 6, 1638, voted that “Good- man Woodward, Mr. John Stretton, with an Indian and two others appointed by the Magistrates of Ipswich, are to lay BY THE SHORES OF INLAND WATERS THE MERRIMACK RIVER 31 out the line 3 miles northward of the most Northermost part of Merrimack, for which they are to have 5s a day a piece.” The survey, which occupied about two weeks of time, was doubtless performed early in the fall of the same year, but unfortunately no special account of the journey through the trackless wilderness has been handed down. That it was filled with arduous labor and accomplished to the satis- faction of the court there is no doubt. The brave little party penetrated so far north that the shore of Lake Winnipesaukee is marked in the plan or plot, the earliest drawing of the Merrimack, with its taibutaries. From this plan the committee selected to pass upon the settlement of the matter fixed the northern line at a big pine tree standing three miles north of the Winnipesaukee and Pemigewasset rivers. This tree became known as Endicott’s Tree, and as late as 1737, during the vexatious trial at the noted court at Salisbury, August 8, the conclu- sions of the evidence rested upon “3. certain tree commonly known for more than seventy years past by the name of Endicott’s Tree, standing three miles northward of the part- ing of the Merrimack river,” to establish the boundary. Notwithstanding this no one ever seemed to be able to tell just where it stood, and as a matter of fact it was of little if any account as a bound. Even allowing this to be the case, it does not diminish the value of this survey, for upon this was based the calcu- lations leading to the better known and more permanent work performed by men composing the expedition of 1652, when it became necessary to repeat this survey by the four whose names have been handed down to history as the suc- cessful operators of an undertaking not removed from dan- ger and difficulty at this date. No doubt at this the Wood- ward survey was reviewed and the old plan brought forth from its pigeon hole. Some claim the plot now in existence is a copy of the original made as late as 1668 or 1669, but does it not seem probable that it was made at this time, 32 THE MERRIMACK RIVER granting it is a copy? It being done by John Gardner shows that he must have been familiar with the subject, and it does not seem at all reasonable that he accompanied the party, as young as he was at this time, a boy about fif- teen. It is certain that he had already been an assistant to Goodman Woodward, and whom would the latter be more likely to take as a companion and helper on this trip than the nimble, brave-hearted lad that we know John Gardner to have been ? Be it as it may, the work of a boy or a man, it shows commendable accuracy and completeness of detail. A reference map shows that the first tributary is that of “ Samon Brook.” I follow the original spelling and cap- italization, while what is known as Nashua river is given as “ Canister river.” The next stream marked is Nanticook in Merrimack, which is spelled here “ pennychok,” while a little above the Souhegan is indicated under its correct orthography. One of the several minor tributaries coming from Litchfield is here set down under the name of “ Nay- cancoke,” which today is called Messenteau. Above this is “Cakusek,” which can be made to stand for Cohas, while the Massabesic pond is indicated in the distance. This, as far as I know, is the first official mention of the name as applied to this body of water. The Piscataquog is very well traced under the name of “Perscataquay.” Two coni- cal shapes in the distance mark the “ occonanauch ” moun- tains, which may or may not be construed to read Unca- noonuc mountains. The falls of the Merrimack is noted under the name of “ Amuskeeg,” and a little above is Black brook. Above this is traced a small stream without a name, while beyond the latter the bold escarpment at the present town of Hooksett, now known as the “lookout,” was indi- cated by a name difficult to decipher, but which may have been intended to mean “Lone Hawk Hill.” A little above this, on the right, Suncook river is marked unmistakably under the spelling of “Sunckeok.” Then, again on the right, is given the small stream rising in Turtle pond, East Concord, the source of thisbrook being marked. On the j?:;.. .jw Drawn for the Granite State Magazine By ELMER H. BERLUND THE GARDNER SURVEY OF THE MERRIMACK RIVER, 1638 (Reduced one-half from original) V, i&K a .H f '{H h. itat? *tiha;i.'; rf»r «v.iiU mi'HA fl'A 3HT HO V3V IIW >U3V: Jrt/. ' : HT b, ., ,5ft THE MERRIMACK RIVER 33 left, a little above this, is given the small stream that con- nects Horse Shoe pond with the Merrimack. Just above the junction of another small stream, which was evidently that forming the outlet of Penacook pond, is found the word “ Penychook,” which may have been intended to denote the site of the old ancient Indian settlement in this vicinity, of the brook. Then comes under the spelling of “ Pacuneshu,” “Contoocook River,” traced to two sources, one of these being marked simply “ mountains,” and the other on the north designated as “Carasaga mountain.” This last no doubt meant what is now meant as Kearsarge mountain, and from this word is now claimed to have come the present name. A place that might apply to the plains of Boscawen is dignified with the designation of “ brave land,” a spot so associated with the memory of the ancient Amerinds for some especial reason. A few miles above this place the Winnipesaukee and Pemigewasset rivers is marked, the last traced for some distance, while the former, designated as “ Winepisocke River,” is followed to the great lake, here set down as “ Winp. Pond.” These constitute the configurations of the outline map, there being no white man’s hamlet to note on the entire distance, but only an unbroken wilderness and its primeval features. Such in brief comprises the accounts of the first survey of the Merrimack. All calculations in regard to the country must have been based upon this survey, until on May 31, 1652, the court ordered Captains Willard and Johnson to undertake their work in establishing the north- ern line of the Massachusetts jurisdiction. lioating W>ap$ anil ftiber /p^en O PERIOD in the history of the busy Merrimack from the morning of July 17, 1605, when it was discovered by De Champlain, to the present date, is fraught with more exciting interest than the boat- ing days of the first half of this century and immediately preceding the appearance on its banks of the iron horse, which was to bring such a revolution in the methods of traffic. Boston had already become a promising metropolis of twenty thousand inhabitants, while all along the north- ward course, as far north as Concord, N. H., thriving vil- lages had come into existence, demanding increased busi- ness facilities and better and cheaper means of transporta- tion than were afforded by the slow-moving ox trains, or the desultory rafting on the river practiced to uncertain extents at occasional intervals. But before the stream could be successfully utilized as an inland maritime highway, the pas- sage of its falls must be rendered feasible by locks, and the rocky shallows and devious windings escaped by artificial waterways. The first step in this direction was the building of the Middlesex canal, which was projected by Hon. James Sulli- van and begun in 1794, to be completed in 1803. This waterway stopped at what is now known as Middlesex vil- lage, about two miles above Lowell, and was twenty-seven miles in length. Immediately upon its completion other companies and individuals, aided more or less by the Middle- sex corporation, undertook to continue the work of making the river navigable by building locks, dams and canals wffiere needed, until a point two miles north of Concord was 34 THE MERRIMACK RIVER 35 reached — fifty-two miles in length — Judge Samuel Blodget fitly completing the great scheme of engineering by his canal of Amoskeag, which was formally opened on May Day, 1807. That part of the system below Amoskeag, comprising the dams and locks at Merrill’s Falls, near Granite bridge, and Griffin’s Falls below, was done by the Union Lock and Canal Company, superintended by Isaac Riddle of Bedford. To Superintendent Riddle belongs the credit, in association with Major Caleb Stark of Dunbarton, of con- structing the first canal boat that ever plied on the Merri- mack. The work was done at Bedford Center, and the boat was so different from anything the people had seen as to call forth numerous expressions of surprise and often of ridicule. The nearest approach to its style of construction that we have now is the flat-bottomed scow used to bring brick down the river from Hooksett. This odd craft, when completed, was drawn to Basswood Landing on the Piscat- aquog, near the bridge, by forty yoke of oxen, and launched amid the tremendous cheering of a large crowd of curious spectators. This boat, appropriately named the “Experi- ment,” was promptly loaded with lumber and started on its pioneer trip to Boston, where it was hailed with greater demonstration than at its starting point, the firing of can- non mingling with the “shouts of the spectators. The news- paper of the day, the Boston Centinel and Federalist , had the following notice concerning the arrival of Captain Riddle’s boat: “Arrived from Bedford, N. H., Canal Boat Experiment, Isaac Riddle, Captain, via Merrimack River and Middlesex Canal.” This was in the fall of 1812, and Captain Riddle imme- diately found himself beset with orders for the shipment of large contracts of lumber and merchandise. His business increased so rapidly that in 1816 a store and boat house was built at Piscataquog bridge, and two years later locks were built just above the island at the mouth of the river. 36 THE MERRIMACK RIVER While I haven’t the data at hand to describe the inci- dent, I am well assured that a boat was built and launched at Nashua at about the same time, possibly a little earlier than Captain Riddle launched his “ Experiment.” Even before his boat had made its initial trip, the Merrimack Boating Company had been organized in Boston to trans- port freight from that place to Concord and way stations through Middlesex canal and Merrimack river. The first boat belonging to this corporation was taken up the river in October, 1814, and commenced on regular trips the follow- ing June. From the beginning of operations by this com- pany thirty years of uninterrupted and successful boating followed on the Merrimack. It is true passengers had to depend, as before, on the stage coaches, but all the products of the country were taken to market, and such merchandise as was needed brought up on the return trip to the places along the route. The granite in Quincy market building was transported from Concord by these boats. In 1817 steam power was unsuccessfully applied and the project abandoned after one trial. But later a steamer called the “ Herald” was built above Pawtucket Falls, launched in 1834, and made regular trips between Lowell and Nashua, when Lowell had but fourteen thousand inhab- itants and Nashua only a few hundred. In 1838 she was lengthened to ninety feet, and would carry five hundred passengers. In 1840 she was floated over the falls to Newburyport and thence taken to New York, where she was run as a ferry boat between New York city and Brooklyn.* The boating season opened as soon as the river was clear of ice in the spring and continued until cold weather. Five days were consumed in the upward trip and four days in going down the river. Twenty tons were considered an average load as far as Lowell, and fifteen tons above that point, except during low water, when not more than half that burden could be carried. At the beginning, Si 3 - 5 ° *G. B. Griffith. WITH WIND AND CURRENT BOAT ENTERING LOCKS MOVING UP THE RIVER THE MERRIMACK RIVER 37 was the charge for up freight to the extreme landing in Concord, and $8.50 for down transportation; but these prices were gradually reduced, until in 1838 only $5 and $4 were the respective charges. The total amount of business done during the years 1816-1842 was $468,756, going up- ward, and $220,940 downward. Before the boating began $20 a ton was charged by teams for the entire route. The Merrimack Boating Company was succeeded by the Concord Boating Company in 1823, and that in turn gave up business in 1844. The largest number of boats believed to be on the river at any one time was twenty. These boats, built to meet the peculiar requirements of river navigation, were not less than forty-five or over seventy-five feet in length, and from nine to nine and one- half feet in width at the middle. Those on the Merrimack were generally of the greatest length, nine feet wide at midway, but a little narrower toward the ends, flat-bottomed across the center but rounded up at bow and stern, so that while they were three feet deep at mid-length the sides were barely a foot high at the extremities. Two-inch pine planks were used in their construction, these being fastened to three-by-four-inch cross joints and side knees of oak, with cross timbers of the same wood at the ends. The seams were calked with oakum and pitched. No cross thwarts were needed, but a stout plank nailed across from side to side about a foot forward of midway served the double pur- pose of strengthening the boat and affording support to a mast raised to carry a square sail attached to a cross-yard, and which under favorable circumstances could be made to assist in the propulsion of the heavily loaded boat. These spars varied somewhat in length, being from twenty to twenty-four feet long and six inches in diameter at the foot. A rope running through a single block at the top enabled the boatman to hoist or lower the sail at will. The main means of propulsion against the current were the setting poles in the hands of two strong bowmen, who were assisted, at such times as his attention was not 38 THE MERRIMACK RIVER occupied in steering the unweildy craft, by the skipper in the stern. These poles, commonly called pike poles, were fifteen feet long, two inches in diameter and made round and smooth out of the best ash wood, with the lower end armed with an iron point. At intervals, between the canals, when a favoring breeze made it practical, the sail was run up and gave material aid ; but after all it was the muscle of the brawny pike men that carried the heavily laden barge onward and upward toward its destination. The peculiar method of propulsion is thus described by one who was familiar with the work : “To propel the boat by poling, a bowman stood on either side of the bow, with his face toward the stern, and thrusting the pike end of his pole down beside the boat in a slanting direction toward the stern until it struck the bottom of the river, he placed his shoulder against the top of the pole, and, with his feet braced against the cross timbers in the bottom of the boat, he exerted the strength of his body and legs to push the boat forward. As it moved, he stepped along the bottom of the boat, still bracing his shoulder firmly against the pole, until he had walked in this manner to the mast board — or, rather, until the movement of the boat had brought the mast board to him. He then turned around and walked to the bow, trailing the pole in the water, thrust it again to the bottom of the river and repeated the pushing movement.” It must be understood that the cargo was piled along the middle of the boat so as to allow of a narrow passageway on each side. The passage down the stream was of course easier and more rapid, the men relying principally on scull oars for means of propulsion, these oars being about the same length as the poles, with six-inch blades on the lower por- tion. The oarsmen stood close to either side of the boat, and about six feet from the bow, each working his oar against a thole pin fastened on the opposite gunwale, and, the oar handles crossing, it was necessary that they be worked together, which moved the craft evenly on its way. THE MERRIMACK RIVER 39 The steering oar was nearly twenty feet long, and secured at the middle to a pivot on the stern cross timber. The blade was about twenty inches in width, and this like the others was made of the toughest and strongest ash. The steersman at his post in the stern had his pike pole and sculling oar at hand to lend such assistance as he could to the bowmen, whenever he was not occupied in guiding the boat along the laborious course. The agent at Concord lower landing hired the men making up the crews of the company, from $16 to $26 a month being paid. A large proportion of these boatmen were from Manchester and Litchfield. Brought up in the knowledge and experience of fishing at the Falls and raft- ing lumber down the river, they were superior boatmen. Among them was Joseph M. Rowell, who had been a rafts- man, and of whom it is related as a specimen of what might be required of a man in that capacity, that he rafted in one day two lots of lumber from Curtis eddy, nearly opposite No. 5 Amoskeag Mill, to Litchfield, nine miles, and walked back each time with a forty-pound scull oar on his shoulder. For this day’s double work he got three dollars. Despite the hardships of his earlier life, Mr. Rowell lived to a good old age. Among the best known of the river men was Capt. Israel Merrill, who had the distinction of being pilot of the steamer that made its “experimental” trip up the river in 1817. He was a tall, powerful man, of whom many remi- niscences of bravery and hardihood are still related. He re- ceived a gold medal for saving two men from drowning in the river, at the imminent risk of losing his own life. John McCutchens, afloat on a raft of lumber above Eel Falls, and finding it getting beyond his control, leaped into the water to attempt to swim to the bank. Unable to do this he was carried over the dam built just above the falls, but managed to catch upon a wooden pin on the top of the planking. Captain Merrill, seeing his perilous situation, swam down to the place and pulled him to a rock, from 40 THE MERRIMACK RIVER which they were rescued soon after by some men in a boat. Matthew McCurdy fell into Pulpit stream and was swept down against a jam of logs, where he clung until Captain Merrill swam to his assistance. It was the same redoubt- able captain who made the long-talked-of race with another boatman from Concord to Boston, coming in at the end of this eighty-one-mile stubbornly contested trial a boat’s length ahead of his rival, who paid for his folly by the loss of his life from over-exertion. The quickest trip of which there is record was made in 1833 by Samuel Hall, John Ray, and Joseph M. Rowell, who started with a boatload of men from the mouth of Piscataquog river at eight o’clock on the morning of June 30, went to Medford, into Medford river, back into Mid- dlesex canal and into Boston, got a load of goods and reached home on the evening of July 3, having been only four days on the trip and return. The last boat on the Middlesex canal made its final trip in 1851. As a rule travel was suspended at sunset, the men planning so as to be near one of the convenient stopping- places along the route at nightfall. The passage of the Middlesex canal consumed one day; another enabled them to reach Cromwell’s Falls, fifteen miles this side; the third took them through Amoskeag locks ; and the fourth, every- thing proving exceptionally favorable, found them at their destination. The rendezvous at Amoskeag was the old Blodget house, kept respectively by Samuel P. Kidder, “Jim ” Griffin, and Frederick G. Stark. Samuel P. Kidder was the first agent appointed by the boating company to superintend the Union canals and col- lect tolls, continuing until his death in 1822, when he was succeeded by Frederick G. Stark, who held the position to 1837. The books kept by both these agents are now in the possession of Frederick G. Stark, of Manchester, a nephew of the first named. Through his courtesy the writer has examined the several volumes, and gives the fol- BOATING DAYS AND RIVER MEN 41 lowing extract to illustrate the methods and amount of business : “No. 97 Daniel Jones 18 Shotts. “ July 8, 1829 “Bow Canal 103M Pine Lumber and Timber at 34 35.02 “62M Shingles at 03 1.86 — #36.88 “ Hooksett Canal 103M Pine Lumber and Timber at 18 18.54 “62M Shingles at 2 1.24 19.78 — “ Amoskeag Canal 103M Pine Lumber and Timber at 50 5 X * 5 ° “62M Shingles at 6 372 — 55.22 $m.88 “ Paid July 28th.” The amount of business for the month of October, 1821, was $759.80 ; while for the same month in 1831 it was $1,598.65, having more than doubled in the decade. Accidents were less common than might have been ex- pected. One boat capsized at Goffe’s Falls, and Edward Killicut was killed. Another was carried over Amoskeag Falls, a yoke of oxen attached to it being saved from the same fate by the presence of mind of Joseph M. Rowell, who rushed into the water and cut the rope that held them. In the midst of the bustle and hard-earned success of these stalwart sons of old-time progress came the announce- ment of that new power which was to rob them of their means of livelihood. Naturally this aroused bitter opposi- tion on their part, and as an illustration of the reluctance of the spirit of the times to accept the new way for the old, the Boston Transcript of September 1, 1830, said: “It is not astonishing that so much reluctance exists against plunging into doubtful speculation. The public is itself divided as to the practicability of the railroad.” A member of the Massachusetts legislature was on record as saying : “ Railroads, Mr. Speaker, may do well enough in the old countries, but will never be the thing for so young a coun- 42 THE MERRIMACK RIVER try as this. When you can make the rivers run back it will be time enough to make railways.” The waters of the Merrimack continued to run according to the laws of gravi- tation, but the railroad, in spite of all human opposition, came, and, like an avenging Nemesis, followed almost identi- cally in the tracks of the skeleton of departed greatness, — the canals, which had made its coming possible. There is no doubt that the adventurous lives led by the boatmen tended to bring out the rougher element of their natures, and a considerable number drank, gambled and entered zealously into the more boisterous sports ; but they were always faithful to duty, kind-hearted to a fellow-being in distress, and many of them carried beneath their coarse jackets more than an average allowance of real manhood. They belonged to a very necessary class of citizens in their day, but which in the evolution of the swiftly following years has been supplanted by another, and only a memory of their usefulness remains. The shriek of the car whistle ended the boatman’s song, while his inspiring watchword, as he toiled laboriously toward the upper waters of old Amos- keag, ** One more stroke for old Derryfield,” found its death knell in the heartless snort of the iron horse, which threw at once those hardy men out of the only employment they knew. Here and there some shattered landmark dimly re- mains to remind us of them and their gigantic work, but the wooden dams and locks have long since crumbled away, the canals have been filled and their banks leveled, while the icy floods of spring have played such sad havoc with the granite abutments that even they fail to stand as their monument. 'Cfce ^tone 3Ege Dark as the frost-nipped leaves that strew the ground, The Indian hunter here his shelter found ; Here cut his bow and shaped his arrows true, Here built his wigwam and his bark canoe, Speared the quick salmon leaping up the fall, And slew the deer without the rifle ball ; Here the young squaw her cradling tree would choose, Singing her chant to hush her swart papoose ; Here stain her quills, and string her trinkets rude, And weave her warrior’s wampum in the wood. — Brainard. jOWEVER antiquarians may differ in regard to a settlement of the question, and whatever may have been the origin of the race of people inhab- iting North America at the time of the arrival of Europeans, there is evidence to show that the Amerinds presented varying types of humanity. Owing to the utter lack of any fixed boundary, and the occasional intermarriage of mem- bers of different tribes, many have been led to believe that they sprang from a common parentage, so it is only on philological grounds that any division can be made. A prominent writer upon this subject (Dr. R. G. Thwaites) makes four branches, with as many distinct languages, sub- divided into innumerable dialects, of the races inhabiting the country east of the Rocky Mountains to the Atlantic 43 44 THE MERRIMACK RIVER Ocean, and from Hudson Bay to the Gulf of Mexico. The most numerous of these, and at one time the most powerful, were the Algonquins, holding the territory from the Gulf of St. Lawrence westward to the Mississippi River, and from the “debatable ground,” on the banks of the Ohio River northward to the shore of Hudson Bay. Taken together, or singly, the tribes or families making this great body of aborigines occupy a larger place in our early history than all others. While this fact was due largely to their situation, which brought them first into combat with the pale-face invaders before the fire and ardor of primitive life had been sapped by contact with the enervating influences of civilization, it was also owing to their warlike disposi- tion. Unlike the “Five Nations” of the Genesee valley, they lacked the unity of strength obtained by confederation, and often the tribes making up their vast numbers were at war with each other. It has been estimated that they num- bered, altogether, from fifty to one hundred thousand. Against them all, whether living in the valley of the St. Lawrence or along the smaller streams of New England, the fiery Iroquois were arrayed for many generations.* - With the above declaration it is, perhaps, unnecessary to say that the Indians of the Merrimack valley belonged to this numerous clan. If, as a whole, the tribes of New England failed to unite in any sort of a confederacy, four families living in the Merrimack valley and adjacent formed a tribal union. These comprised the Nashuas, dwelling along the river which perpetuates their name ; the Squam- * The Iroquois league numbering over ten thousand persons and two thousand warriors, consisted originally of a confederacy of five kindred tribes, the Mohawk, Oneida, Onondaga, Cayuga and Seneca, in what is now the state of New York. To these were added the cognate Tuscarora alter their expulsion from Carolina, about 1715. The name Iroquois, by which they were known to the French, is supposed to be a derivative from some Indian term. To the English they were known as the Five, afterwards the Six, Nations. They called them- selves by a name commonly spelled Hodenosaunee, and interpreted “ People of the Long House.” Of this symbolic long house the Mohawk guarded the eastern door, while the Seneca protected the western, according to “American Ethnology,” Vol. IX. From their position it will be seen that it was natural that the Mohawks, the most warlike of all these clans, should become the invaders of New England. — Editor. IN THE TWILIGHT OF THE STONE AGE THE STONE AGE 45 scotts, a small inland family located where is now Exeter ; the Newichawannocks, on the Piscataqua River, and the Penacooks, living in the valley of the Merrimack and num- bering about three thousand, being the ruling tribe. Their most noted chief or sagamore was Passaconnaway. This small confederacy of wildwood hunters and war- riors maintained a certain form of government for a longer period than there is even tradition to show, and were in truth the pioneers of aboriginal progress. Occupying one of the most favorable regions for fishing and hunting, and located upon the debatable ground between the fiery Mic- macs of the East and the lordly Mohawks of the West, they were frequently called upon to brave the battle against powerful foes. Here was sounded the wild alarum of con- quest from enemies that never slept ; here, from the high- lands of the River of Broken Waters to the Isles of Mona, was borne aloft the tocsin of war; here wound the wartrails of dusky nations that fought, bled and perished in the same cause which has wrung tears from the old earth since it was young. This was in truth the Thessaly of olden New England. From out of the misty background of tradition rise the stalwart figures of that period not inaptly styled the Stone Age of the Merrimack. ^ Among them appears the stately Kenewa, mustering his dusky legion, to lead it forth to anticipated conquest, only to be swallowed up by the hun- gry wilderness as was Varus and his Romans in the old Germanic forest. Then the valiant Winnemet rallied around him his gallant followers in his desperate endeavor to stem the tide of his Waterloo upon the Brave Lands of Penacook, falling at last encircled by the slain of his “ old guard” of the Penacooks. Now the magnanimous Passa- connaway, reading in the signs of the times the destiny in store for his people, taught them it was better to condone the wrongs of a stronger race than to combat a hopeless fate. Here, the curtain fallen on the closing scene of pagan warfare, Wannalancet, the last great sachem of the 46 THE MERRIMACK RIVER Stone Age, called about him his few scattered followers, to lead them to that rendezvous under the French protection upon the bank of the St. Lawrence, returning a few years later that his dust might mingle with the ashes of his father. Here, sacrificing every hope and ambition for his race, brave Merruwacomet fought and fell in the interest of an alien people, his heroic deeds unsung. Here, too, in the gloaming of that long day, came the lonely Christo, to con- secrate with the tears of a warrior the graves of his sires, the ashes of his race, No mean knights of chivalry these, sons of the Stone Age, every hero of them worthy to stand shoulder to shoulder with the best of the Old World champions. This is no place to discuss the rights or wrongs of the races, though there can be no harm in reminding the con- queror that not so very many generations ago his own ancestors lurked sullenly in the caverns of the earth, and came forth clad in the skins of wild beasts. It was related by one of the pioneers of the Merrimack valley that, while abroad one night upon the river bank, he discovered an Indian approaching upon his hands and knees. A friendly motion of the hand of the dusky scout caused the white man to wait his approach. With his fingers upon his lips to enjoin silence, the latter whispered: “ Me watch to see the deer kneel.” Then it occurred to the narrator that it was Christmas Eve, and he realized that in the simplicity of his new-found belief the red man was expecting at that sacred hour to see the deer come forth from the forest to fall upon their knees in silent adoration of the Great Spirit. Truly that race cannot be lost to Omnipotent justice who, in its honesty of faith, looks through Nature’s eyes up to God. The glory of the Stone Age was at its zenith in the early reign of Passaconnaway. It had begun its decline a little prior to the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth Rock, when a terrible epidemic swept over the tribes of New England, in many cases reducing populous communities to RELICS OF THE STONE AGE THE STONE AGE 47 little bands of forlorn survivors. But the people of the Stone Age in all probability would have recovered from this calamity, in the due course of time, as they had rallied from other disasters. From the fell power of the enervat- ing influences of the white man there was no hope. So the period begins beyond the twilight of tradition and ends with the rising of the sun of civilization. While it makes a dark page on the historic scroll of the ages, it was not wholly lost to light and intelligence; while primitive in its results as compared to the present, it was almost as far from primeval effort as the age which had preceded it. If the research of the philologist has not been in vain, they but followed an inferior race, as they were succeeded by one superior, and if passing from the scene monumentless, yet they did leave behind them traces and names which shall live as long as the American Republic may stand, while that other aborigine left not even an arrow head to show to coming races how dim are the footsteps of human progress. Personally, the sons of the Stone Age were men of tall, straight figure, dusky-hued skin, coal-black hair, beardless faces, high cheek bones, a nose long and prominent, eyes small but dark and piercing, capable of watching the eagle’s flight under the glare of the midday sun without flinching. They moved silently ahchswiftly along the dim aisles of the forest archways, by placing one foot directly in front of the other, swerving neither to the right nor left. Their cos- tumes consisted mainly of deer skin leggins, skin robes or hunting shirts in winter, and moccasins, also of deer skin, the primitive garb made more picturesque by fringes along the seams and ornaments painted in bright hues upon the garments. Their principal weapon was a long stout bow of hornbeam or some equally strong wood, which sent an arrow with flint or stone head a great distance, and in their hands with unerring accuracy. For closer attack and defense they made a spear or lance, with shaft of stout wood finished at the end with a sharp rock-point. If the engagement became hand-to-hand they were armed with 48 THE MERRIMACK RIVER the tomahawk made of a small flat stone, attached to a stout handle of wood. These weapons, with a knife of stone, sometimes of bone or flint, comprised their principal weapons and utensils of war and chase. But along with these came many other implements and instruments of manufacture and invention worthy of description. For their own protection, if not from social motives, and there is no proof to show that the American Indians were not a social people, the inhabitants of the Merrimack valley in the period of the Stone Age lived mainly in groups or lodgments along the banks of their cherished river. By this it must not be supposed that, at some time or other, every section of the state was not penetrated by these people, and the finding of relics of their use in the most remote parts of the state shows that they dwelt there for a time of greater or less extent. Living in villages or towns, as we should know it, these warriors became banded together, had their regular leaders and a rude form of government. Their towns were usually built with regard to a favorable position for fishing, hunting, clearings for agriculture and where they could be best protected from an enemy, which was likely to sweep down upon them at any hour. There were few if any days when scouts were not on the lookout for the appearance of strangers who might be looked upon with distrust. Their dwellings, called wigwams, derived from wig-was, meaning “bark dwelling,” were built by setting small sap- lings or branches of trees in the ground in a circular form, the tops bent so as to meet and form a conical wall. This rough framework was then covered with bark or mats o skins, except at the crest, where a small aperture was left for the smoke of the fire within to escape through. The doorway, a skin answering the purpose of a door, was an opening upon the sunny side of this primitive structure, usually an opening on the opposite side being made so tha in case the wind blew from the other course it might be opened and this one closed. SCRAPERS, KNIVES AND DISH THE STONE AGE 49 As among the men of to-day, there seem to have been different grades of dwellings, and the sachem usually dwelt in a more pretentious abode. Skins of greater value adorned his couch, and linings of mats hung upon the walls of his house. These were also ornamented with cunning devices wrought by the deft fingers of his squaw, as well as the fruits of many a chase or wartrail. The capital or chief village of the confederation of the Merrimack valley was near the “ Brave Lands ” of the Penacooks, until they were routed there by the fiery Mohawks, their long-timeenemies, and forced to move lower down the river. The roads of the sons of the Stone Age were con- cealed paths, denominated trails, rather than open high- ways, for these would prove of advantage to those enemies around them. They always sought, when they could, some waterway leading in that direction. Thus their light skiff, usually made of birch bark, and which has become known as the “canoe,” was their favorite means of travel. These canoes were made of bark taken from the birch, and sometimes, but seldom, from the elm, and were often made with a delicate mechanism that a white man would be puzzled to imitate. They were as light as an egg shell and as airy as a feather. Despite this fact they unhesitatingly setTorth upon long and perilous jour- neys, stemming the rapids of some turbulent stream or daring the dangers of an inland sea. In winter the Indians resorted to a cunning device, claimed to have been invented by a woman, and which has been given the name of snow shoes. By means of these they were enabled to thread the dim old forest with ease in the midst of winter snows. In fact, it was then, when the undergrowth and broken-down trees were banked under the snow, that they were able to make their longest journeys. The artisan of the Stone Age displayed great ingenu- ity in the manner in which he performed his tasks of mak- ing those implements needed by him. Usually the mate- rial from which he obtained his object was selected with 50 THE MERRIMACK RIVER care in regard to its fitness for his purpose. The ham- mer, possibly the first tool he designed, was made from a stone not only of a desired shape but of a finer and harder texture than those he would secure to be beaten and pol- ished to answer other ends. The hammer made to his liking, he then fastened a handle to it by means of a narrow strip of deer thong or a small, tough withe, and went on with his work, evolving one after another of those utensils meeting his needs, with the patience and stoicism of his race. KNIVES There were several varieties of implements which might be considered under this head, and among them were the scrapers, flakers, celts and fleshers. The most simple of these was the flaket, which was often made by a single blow from a pebble against a rock inclined to split apart. The piece of stone thus obtained, with usually more or less “finishing,” became a handy tool for various pur- poses. It was, in fact, a rude sort of a knife, and so far as it was capable of being used it took the place of the other. A great many knives have been found chipped mostly on one edge until the desired quality of an instrument to cut was secured. These instruments were not often straight along the edge line, but slightly curved from one end to the other. The red men had another knife somewhat re- sembling the “chopping knife” of our own mothers. These seem to have been made mostly by a rude grinding or scraping against a harder surface. This was no doubt a woman’s tool. Sometimes the knife was hafted, and became a very good carving knife for cutting meat and other sub- stances found at the primeval feast. THE SCRAPER A writer upon this subject ventures the assertion that “The scraper and its brother, the flaked knife, followed next after the hammer in the tide of evolution. Whether INDIAN SNOW-SHOES THE STONE AGE 51 his environment were stone, bone or shell, wherever his- toric man has left his traces, these most useful of tools are found.” The scraper was not only made to separate softer substances, but it was more frequently used as a rasp to smooth and work into shape the object upon which the designer may have been at work. Were it a piece of stone, then he used it as a polisher; if a skin that he was prepar- ing, it became a rubber to soften and make flexible the object, somewhat as we should use a piece of glass to smooth wood, horn or bone. It was also handy with the dusky cook in enabling her to remove the meat from the bone, and otherwise to assist in preparing the food. One face was made flat, while the other was raised, the end pointed like an arrow-head. It was sometimes hafted and became a handy instrument in removing skins from ani- mals, becoming a good separator as well as a tool for cut- ting. It was used, too, for the purpose of removing arrow- heads from wounds. DRILLS Next to the knife in importance among the sons of the Stone Age was the instrument for perforating or drilling. There were two kinds of these drills or augers, the most com- mon form of which was the pointed piece of rock, which, after patient and careful drilling, made a conical perforation in the object. Usually these bores were made from opposite sides of the stone being drilled, the holes meeting at an angle near the center. Sometimes the bore was made entirely from one side. CELTS The celt, from celtis , a chisel, was ope of the most prized tools among the Amerinds, and upon this stone instrument the aboriginal craftsman gave his most cunning skill and painstaking care. He first rough-hewed the stone into something like the shape desired, following which he 52 THE MERRIMACK RIVER devoted days of patient work to smoothing and polishing his favorite tool. It was sometimes made oval shape or flat, but usually round, with a sharp blade, formed symetri- cally from both sides. Occasionally they were grooved, but rarely so. Sometimes a wooden handle carefully fash- ioned was perforated at one end, and the stone tool, made smaller at that part, was driven into it far enough to become firm in its socket There seem to have been many uses for this handy tool, such as rubbing down skins, smoothing wood, shaping the bow and arrow, and kindred uses, besides the legitimate calling of a chisel. In this capacity it may have been pushed by the hand, but there is evidence to show that it was often used just as our mechanic pounds his chisel with vigorous blows from his mallet. It has been well said by a writer upon the subject that “ Working with no guide but his eye, no tool but a stone hammer, and no measure but his hand, one is amazed to see how perfect some of these objects have been made.” GOUGES Similar to a certain extent, and next in importance to the red men was the gouge. These of necessity were made of extremely hard stone, and were either grooved or ungrooved, with one face flat and the other rounded, some- times acutely. They were hollowed out on the flat surface, and brought to almost a semi-circle. It is believed that these tools were used to a considerable extent in hollowing out canoes from trees. Allied to the gouge was the adze, the last having a helve ingeniously fashioned by two ridges making a raised groove for helving. This handy tool had a sharp edge, the blade curved slightly on the sides. PESTLE AND MORTAR That student of Indian life, Schoolcraft, very vividly pictures a Penacook squaw pounding corn in a mortar placed THE INDIAN’S PRIMITIVE MILL THE STONE AGE 53 in a position directly under the branch of a tree from which a pestle hung suspended by a stout strip of deer thong. Here, seated upon the ground, this industrious spouse of a red man, while she chants some ditty, possibly a love song, performs her task of grinding the golden grain into a fine flour by the assistance of the tree, the rebound of the limb with each successive blow lifting the primitive crusher to a sufficient height to admit of a smart stroke directed by her right hand. It is possible the historian partook somewhat of the character of a romancer in depicting this scene, but the fact remains that it was not improbable. The Amer- ican Indian was nothing if not of an inventive turn of mind. The Indian woman was a considerable factor in the manufacture of the implements of the Stone Age, and it may be readily imagined that she made most of those which applied to her use. That the men made certain of the instruments and weapons needed by them in war and chase is obvious, but even in these the cunning hand of woman is evident. Pestles have been frequently found in the Merrimack Valley, but do not appear to have been made with so much diligence as some of the other utensils. They were seldom polished, except from long use. Sometimes, after having been pecked into fine^ shape, a hole would be drilled in the lower end and a piece of stone of a harder nature inserted, fitting so nicely into the perforation that years of use failed to loosen it. The mortar was frequently made of hard wood, and perhaps as often of stone scooped out to hold the grain. The pestle and mortar, if a very primitive mill, were important utensils in the simple household of the aborigines. If other objects might be omitted from the catalogue of implements used by the sons of the Stone Age, the pipe could not be overlooked. Whether a blessing or a curse, it is the one legacy which he left his conquerors that is likely to remain with the memory of him. He beyond doubt looked upon the cloud of tobacco smoke curling lazily 54 THE MERRIMACK RIVER above his dusky visage as an incense wafted reverently to his invisible god. When he smoked, he first invoked the divine blessing, in his untutored mind, by sending a whiff of the fragrant vapor to the four points of the compass, and finished by sending a fifth upward toward the throne of the Most High. War between tribes was frequently pro- claimed by means of a pipe adorned with red feathers. The struggle over treaties of peace and, it may be, alliance were sealed in solemn compact by the smoking among the contracting parties of the pipe of peace. Seldom, if ever, were these compacts broken. For more than one to smoke a pipe in succession meant terms of brotherhood and social alliance. Pipes of various patterns have been found in the valley, some of them grotesquely carved with the image of some creature, it may have been a raven or a hideous imp of unknown species. The raven in the traditions of the Algonquin Indians took very much the same position that the dove does in the Jewish legends of the days of the flood. In his weapons of offense and defense, living as he did mainly by the chase, and ever haunted by the grim skeleton of war, it was natural the red man should give his best specimens of skill as an artisan to the manufacture of those weapons needed in his most active periods. THE BOW AND ARROW The bow and arrow afforded the dusky warrior his most trusted implement of the chase of game or on the war-trail of his enemies. The arrows, though sometimes headed with wood or bone, jasper or flint, were usually tipped with sharp points of stone chipped into the proper shape. In the manufacture of these, a work usually rele- gated to the women, he showed considerable skill, though it is not certain how he generally performed the task. Owing to the number used it must have called for frequent hours of patient toil. Evidently such material as could be THE STONE AGE 55 found, often quartz cobbles, was split into thin layers with their stone hammers, assisted by stone wedges. A writer who has made considerable study of this subject says : “Possibly they were heated in pits and split by cooling suddenly with water. Partly made implements were often buried in considerable quantities. It is supposed that these stones were thus softened and rendered more tractable.” Caches of these finds have been unearthed in several places in the Merrimack Valley. The layers of rock, when not treated in this manner, were slowly chipped into the de- sired shape and thickness by repeated blows from the stone hammers of small size. The writer already quoted believes that bone or horn was used as a chisel driven in with the hammer to break off little flakes from either side. These implements were designated as arrow flakers, specimens of which have been found. The granite found in New Hamp- shire no doubt made excellent material for the arrow and spear-head maker. Archaeologists have considered these points, whether notched so as to be hafted, which have been found so plentifully on the banks of the Merrimack, to be arrow tips when under two inches in length, spear heads when of greater length, until reaching a size suffi- cient for a knife. There is a distinguishing feature about the style or manner in-which these are made, as well as in the difference of material between one section of the country and another. Made, perhaps, more for the chase than for war, the Penacooks showed more than common skill in the making of arrow-heads, as they did of nearly everything else. There were also two styles of arrows used even by them. One of these was the war-points, which were made to be inserted into the shaft loosely, so as to remain in the wound of the victim, and thus were not notched or tanged. The arrows of the hunter, on the other hand, were carefully inserted into the shaft and fastened in place by aid of the tang. These could easily be removed from the wounded animal, and the arrow intact made to do duty many times over. 56 THE MERRIMACK RIVER THE SPEAR Spear-points were made of hard stone, pecked and smoothed by the hammer and chisel until brought to a sharp end. It was tanged for hafting, and was attached to its handle after the manner of the arrow to its shaft. The spear or lance was a handy instrument, and used for vari- ous purposes in both war and hunting. Oftentimes the maker exercised his skill to a high degree in its making, and no doubt looked upon this as a favorite instrument of defense or aggression. Space forbids me from entering into the detail of description of the many and varied articles made by the sons of the Stone Age, or even to give a complete list of them. Besides those briefly mentioned, the Amerinds of the Merrimack made among others, either for ornaments or industrial purposes, the plummet or sinker, used in fishing, amulets and banner stones worn for personal protection from real or imiginary evil, totems to distinguish his family, polishers to assist him in the manufacture ot other instru- ments, perforators to aid him in piercing stones or other objects, trinkets of almost unending sorts as personal adornment. I trust sufficient has been said to awaken an interest in a subject that really deserves greater attention than has been given to it. These vestiges of prehistoric man are rapidly disappearing, and it is only seldom now one picks up a find of this nature. But enough have been found and kept to prove to coming generations that they were far re- moved from savagery, and that even they lived in an age of progression. Not only did they develop a remarkable adept- ness in the art of skilled labor, where the word meant more than it expresses to-day, until they left us, their successors, those stone relics, silent yet speaking of centuries of patient progression in a craft which called for more than ordinary capacity to work on and upward, but they became the slow and sure agent by which was evolved from small begin- RELICS OF THE STONE AGE THE STONE AGE 57 nings certain products of the soil. From the tasteless gourd climbing its rocky bed in the heart of the mountains of the West they developed the savory melon, which was so much prized, not only by them, but by us. From a small berry growing wild they obtained the bean. Through their assiduous cultivation for a period of years they im- proved the wild apple, until several of the varieties that we raise to-day came down to us from them as heirlooms. Of greater importance than either of these achievements through centuries of cultivation and propagation they devel- oped from a wild, coarse grass known as maize, and growing upon the shores of the Gulf of Mexico, that golden grain more priceless to us than even the mines of the Garden of the Gods. Civilization has been aided by the destructive forces of air and earth to destroy the vestiges of these peo- ple who deserve more of us than we have been willing to acknowledge, but let us garner into our storehouses of treasures the best that we find of them. The wigwam has vanished with the smoke of their council fire, the warwhoop long since died out in the valleys, the tocsin of war faded two centuries and more ago from our mountain peaks, but the etymologist traces their boundary lines in the names upon our rivers arid hills, their fishing places upon our ponds and lakes, their hunting grounds in the vales and sunny slopes that they loved. The earth-eaten arrow-head and tomahawk, the chisel and gouge, with the humbler in- struments of their domestic affairs point to the patient finder the site of their long-lost habitations. Not always are the deeds of the most worthy perpetuated in song and story ; the bards of Greece sang the prais $ of a race no doubt inferior to many others whose triumphs have been lost because there was no fitting poet to immortalize them upon the tablets of time. And though no claim is put forth to place those of this period among the illustrious heirs of history, yet when we think of primitive man as having no language, no shelter but the rocks and caverns of earth, no food save what nature provided in its simple state, no imple- 58 THE MERRIMACK RIVER ments of work or skill, we find that the sons of the Stone Age of the Merrimack were far removed from such a stage. Above all was exhibited that trait which we should revere as a part of our own nature, freedom, of which the poet, Charles Sprague, has so aptly said : “ I venerate the Pilgrim’s cause, Yet for the red man dare to plead. We bow to Heaven’s recorded laws, He turned to Nature for a creed; Beneath the pillared dome, We seek our God in prayer; Through boundless woods he loved to roam, And the Great Spirit worshipped there. But one, one fellow throb with us he felt; To one divinity with us he knelt ; Freedom, the self-same freedom we adore, Bade him deefnd his violated shore.” LARCOM WHITTIER THOREAU EMERSON Uiterarp Associations of tfjc lUerrimack Cltoer I “Rich thy waves and gentle too, As Rome’s proud Tiber ever knew; And thy fair current’s placid swell Would flow in classic song as well. Yet on thy banks, so green and sweet, Where wood nymphs dance and naiads meet, E’en since creation’s earliest dawn, No son of song was ever born; No muse’s fairy feet e’er trod Thy modest margin’s verdant sod; And ’mid Time's silent, feathery flight, Like some coy maiden, pure as light, Sequestered in some blest retreat, Far from the city and the great, Thy virgin waves the vales among Have flowed naglected and unsung.” ■^^IVERS are the poets of Nature, singing the songs of the landscape. The song of the Merrimack is a grand epic of industry, the story in rhythm of progress. From whence it babbles its baby lullabies in its mountain cradle to where it yields up its being to the ocean, it sings of constant changes, periods of unrest as it struggles with its rocky environments, days of peace where it lingers longingly in the quiet valleys of its meadows. In its varying moods it always speaks in unmistakable lan- guage of a restlessness and endeavor in keeping with human life. Its fortune and good will have been more 59 60 THE MERRIMACK RIVER closely interwoven with those of man than any other river in the world. While the grand old Father Nile for centuries unscored has listened with a patient ear to the story of its children, a tale of woe and happiness of that far-away dawn of civi- lization and the ending of the day; the sacred Ganges has often lingered lonely and lovingly to listen to the plaint of its benighted people; the storied Rhine repeated in its many tongues the proud boast of its years and its con- quests, the Merrimack carried in its heart the memory of older and greater monuments than these. It has in truth traced its own autobiography with invisible pencil in unmistakable characters upon tablets of stone that will outlast the printed pages of many races of men. The earliest literary association of the Merrimack is a voice coming up from the depths of dusky tradition. The poet was a dark-eyed, plaintive singer whose dreary refrain awoke the heart-throbs of the sympathetic current of the rolling river as no other messenger has. The daughter of some unwritten chieftain she traced upon the flexible tab- lets of memory the picturesque story of her race. To him who in the love of Nature holds Communion with her invisible forms, she speaks A various language; for his gayer hours, She has a voice of gladness and a smile And eloquence of beauty, and she glides Into his darker musings with a mild And healing sympathy, that steals away Their sharpness ere he is aware. From out of the misty background this pathetic singer created an heroic epic grander than Homer, whose stalwart figures belong to the most picturesque race that ever lived. Among them the stately Kenewa appears mustering his dusky legion to lead it forth to anticipated conquest only to be swallowed up by the hungry wilderness as was Varus and his army in the old Germanic forest. Then the valiant Winnemet rallied around him his gallant followers upon the Brave Lands in his desperate endeavor to stem the tide of that disastaous Waterloo that overtook his race. Drawn tor Granite State Magazine by J. Warren Thyng. THE COT IN THE VALLEY LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS OF MERRIMACK RIVER 61 Now the magnanimous Passaconaway, reading in the signs of the times the destiny of his people, bade them to meet bravely a hopeless fate, while he launched his frail boat upon This swiftly flowing river, This silver gliding river, Whose springing willows shiver In the sunset as of old, and vanished from sight and story, the grandest figure among these Romans of the wilderness. This was, indeed, the Thessaly of olden New England, where Green-tufted, oak-shaded, by Amoskeag’s Fall The twin Uneanoonucs rose stately and tall. If the dusky hosts that flitted across the misty pages left no Illiad to speak of their dead heroes, of their unwrit- ten deeds, theirs is not all the loss; yours not all the gain. For them the woodland songster sang its matin vespers and with them it vanished; for them the bonny deer roamed the pine-clad hills, and with them it sped its eter- nal race; the sleepless eagle, that from its eirie crag watched their stealthy march against their foe, maintains no more its lonely vigil; the catamount, that alone dared to answer their triumphant warwhoop, is forever silent. The merry rivulet that tells its happy secrets to you told the same old story to them in a loftier strain; the deep forest, with its unnumbered arms, protecting them from the cold blasts of winter and the torrid rays of summer, found in the ring of your ax its knell of doom; the cataract, that awoke with its mighty drum-beat the solitude of their surroundings, greet you with rhythm subdued: the myriad of Nature’s voices that stirred the impulses of their wild nature have no awakening chord for you. The song of the river you drown with the dreary monotone of the factory wheel, and the melody of the wildwood with the tumult of your busy marts. Leaving this period of aboriginal romance, when When the trees were chanting from an open book, we find the river a source of joy to all who follow its his- toric and charmed courses, 62 THE MERRIMACK RIVER With its head hid in the shadow Of mountains crowned with snow With its bosom in the meadow Where the apple orchards grow. The first written description was given by the early explorers, who were seeking in a land of romance, as was the aged De Leon seeking in the everglades of Florida for the Fountain of Youth, the solution of many delusions, and wrote of the Merrimack as a “faire large river, well replenished with many fruitful islands; the ayr thereof is pure and wholesome; the country pleasant, having some high hills, full of goodly forests and faire vallies and plaines fruitful in corn, chestnuts, walnuts and infintie sorts of other fruits; large rivers well stored with fish, and environed with goodly meadows full of timber trees.” What lonely magnificence stretches around! Each sight how sublime; how awful each sound! All hushed and serene as a region of dreams, The mountains repose ’mid the roar of the streams. The historian of the river is beyond dispute the pains, taking Meader, who has traced its many features in their varying lineaments from “the mountain to the sea.” In a volume of over three hundred pages he has described its charms and accomplishment in pleasant language. He says: “The existence of the splendid system of waterfalls, such as this alone of all the streams in the land can boast, has cited around them mechanics, artisans and operatives of every degree of skill and ability, and the result is seen in the steady and successful operation of more than one hundred monster cotton and woolen mills, whose massive walls towering on the ‘air line’ toward the clouds, enclose gems of humanity as well as of intricate, delicate and almost intelligent machinery. . . . Anterior to the manu- facturing epoch .... the Merrimack river was the same lovely stream of bright and sparkling water and contained the same noble falls, and was surrounded with a population sturdy and indomitable, which sparse and devoted to the pleasant and profitable pursuits of peace as it was, yet NEAR TO NATU LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS OF MERRIMACK RIVER 63 contributed its full share to the independence, intellect and character of the nation. Looking still further back, to the aboriginal period, the Merrimack and the territory which it drains is replete with interest, different in kind to be sure, but equal and in some respects surpassing that which invests it now. . . . Though races of men may flourish for a season and disappear, others more or less worthy assum- ing their places in turn, the Merrimack river and its grand surroundings can never be involved in these vicissitudes. The grand convocation of majestic mountains which sur- round its source are the fitting emblems of eternal dura- tion and nothing but such terrific convulsions of nature as would produce a universal chaos could move them from their firm bases or mar the unequalled natural beauty of their scenery ord estroy the wonderful features which give them world-wide fame. The Merrimack itself, enduring as the crystal hills which give it birth, will go on forever, leaping from the great mountains in sparkling cascades, meandering through long, shaded avenues of perennial forests, winding its tortuous course around the bases of eternal hills, a robust, rapid river. ... In another age new and improved monuments may be reared, still testifying to its service and its power, long after the chains which now bind it to the wheels of monster cotton mills are rusted and decayed and become relics of the past, or the antiquarian may rescue from the debris of its present glory vestiges of the history of its former, but fallen grandeur — “By thirty hills I hurry down, Or slip between the ridges, By twenty thorps, a little town, And half a hundred bridges.’ ” Notwithstanding the prophecy of the poet* whose lines introduce our subject, we find that the Merrimack has been the favorite, possibly, of more poets than any other ♦William M. Richardson, LL.D., was born in Pelham. January 4, 1774. He graduated lrom Harvard College in 1797; was a member of congress, 1811-14; chief justice of the Supreme Court oi this state, 1816-38. He died in Chester in March, 1838. It will be seen that he lived before the majority of those from whom we quote had begun to sing. — Editor. 64 THE MERRIMACK RIVER river in America. Associated with its own are the songs of Whittier, Thoreau and Emerson, and a score of others worthy of remembrance. Mr. Robert Caverly* devoted an entire volume of eighty pages to an epic poem upon the river. While this effort of Mr. Caverly may never become a classic, it has many places of interest bordering closely upon merit. His heart was with his subject, which gladdens many a defect and enlivens that subject Whose praise we sing, .... Some grateful measure bring, Some note of landscape grand in dale and hill, Adorned with glittering lake, cascade or rill, With forest wild, with winding wave between The giant groves along the valley green. In speaking of the days of the primeval pioneers, he goes on to say in pleasant vein: His dripping oar Ripples the water never pressed before. Leading us quietly through the vale of the passing scenes, he declares: Thence this fair vale from mountain to the main In vernal grandeur buds to bloom again, And plenteous harvest with her golden ears Crowning the prudence of progressive years Adorns the field, and grace triumphant gives To honest toil. The poet quoted at the beginning continues his some- what graphic lines by describing in vivid language the wild tangle of savage warfare, where contending foes — This gentle flood Bedew with tears and wet with blood — and goes on to picture the deeds of brave men none the less true to honor and duty because ♦Robert Boody Caverly was born in Strafford, July 19, 1806. He graduated at the Har- vard Law School and practiced law six years in Limerick, Me., and then for many years in Lowell, Mass., where he died in 1898. He left several published works, all of which relate to the Merrimack and its associations. Besides the poem mentioned he was the author of a “History of the Indian Wars in New England,” “Epics, Lyrics and Ballads*” “Battles of the Bush,” with other works. — Editor. LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS OF MERRIMACK RIVER 65 No evergreen of glory waves Above the fallen warriors’ graves ****** No deathless deed by hero done, No battle lost, no victory won, Here ever waked with praise or blame The loud uplifted trump of fame. It matters little if the nameless hero threads the dim aisles of the old forest a mere shadow upon the serolls of tradition, or if he comes and goes like a Csesar of departed greatness, very real yet a vision still. Amerind and Roman alike now march in twain across that other field of Mars, wnere the arrow and the sword have not been taken, and victor and vanquished meet upon a common plane. After all is it not quite as well to remain a living river, a fount of eternal inspiration, as a dead hero? Where bounteous spring profusely showers A wilderness of sweets and flower, — The stately oak of royal line, The spreading elm and towering pine, Here cast a purer, happier shade Than blood-stained laurels ever made. Another of its admirers* has caught the spirit of its answering voices and, while listening to the wild songs of “broken waters,” makes this stirring apostrophe: TO THE MERRIMACK RIVER AT THE FALL? OF THE AM-AUH-NOUR-SKEAG Roll on, bright stream! And ever thus, from earliest time, thou’st leaped And played amid these caverned, sounding rocks, When the long summer’s sun hath tamed thy power To gentleness; or, roused from thy long sleep, Hast cast thy wintry fetters off, and swept, In wild, tumultuous rage, along thy course, Flinging the white foam high from out thy path, And shaking to their very centre earth’s Foundation stones. *Thomas Russell Crosby was born in Gilmanton, October 22, 1816. In 1841 he gradu- ated from both the academical and medical departments of Dartmouth College. He was professor in Norwich University from 1854 to 1864; in Milwaukee Medical College, from 1864 to 1871; in New Hampshire Agricultural College, from 1870 to the time of his death in Hanover, March 1, 1892 . — Editor ■ 66 THE MERRIMACK RIVER And in thine awful might, When terror rides thy wildly heaving wave Or in thy soft and gentle flow, when break The ripples on thy sandy shore, in sweet, Delicious music, as of fairy bells, How beautiful art thou! And, since that first Glad hour, when morning stars together sang, Each rising sun, with dewy eye, hath looked On thee. Each full-orbed moon hath smiled to see Herself thrown back in penciled loveliness, Mirrored a mimic disk of light, beneath Thy pure and limpid wave, or broken else Into a myriad crystal gems flung high, In sparkling jets or gilded spray, towards heaven. And long ere on thy shores the white man trod, And wove the magic chain of human will Around thy free and graceful flood, and tamed Its power to minister to human good, The Indian roamed along thy wooded banks, And listened to thy mighty voice with awe. He, too, untutored in the schoolman’s lore, And conversant with Nature’s works alone, More deep, true, reverent worship paid to thee Than does his fellow-man, who boasts a faith More pure, an aim more high, a nobler hope — Yet in his soul is filled with earth-born lusts. The Indian loved thee as a gift divine To him thou flow’dst from the blest land that smiled Behind the sunset hills — the Indian heaven, Where, on bright plains, eternal sunshine fell, And bathed in gold the hills, and dells, and woods, Of the blest hunting-grounds. With joy he drew The finny stores from out thy swarming depths, Or floated o’er thee in his light canoe, And blest the kindly hand that gave him thee, A never-failing good; a fount of life And blessing to his race. And thou to him Didst image forth the crystal stream that flows From “out the throne of God and of the Lamb,” The Christian’s “water of the life divine.” Thy source was in the spirit-peopled clouds, And to his untaught fancy thou didst spring LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS OF MERRIMACK RIVER Fresh from Manitou’s hands — the o’erflowing hand From which all blessing comes, alike to him Whose teaching comes from rude, material things, Who worships ’neath the clear blue dome of heaven, As him who in a sculptured temple prays. And thou, bright river, in thy ceaseless flow, Hast mirrored many a passing scene would charm The painter’s eye, would fire the poet’s soul; For beauty of the wild, free wood and floods Is yet more beautiful when far removed From the loud din of toil, that e’er attends The civilizing march of Saxon blood. And poetry, unversed indeed, and rude, But full of soul-wrought, thrilling harmony, Hath spoken in thy murmur or thy roar; And human hearts, through long, swift-gliding years, Have made the valley thou hast blessed their home, Where they have lived, and loved, and joyed, and hoped, Nay, passed through all that makes the sum of life, Of human life, in every clime and age. Along thy shaded banks, in grim array, Wild bands of “braves,” as fearless and as true As ever sought a deadly foeman’s blade, Or battled nobly in a country’s cause, With step as silent as the grave, have sped, In lengthened files, to strfe, and blood, and death . In that sweet dell, where giant trees o’erhang Thy soft, encircling wave, the council fires Have blazed. There silent, stem, grave-visaged men Have sat the magic circle round, and smoked The calumet of peace; or youths, in wild Exciting dance, with battle songs and shouts, With flashing arms, and well-feigned, earnest strife, Have acted the sad mimicry of war. To yonder sheltered nook, where, still and calm, The chafed and wearied waters rest a while Behind a rocky point, on which the waves Break ever, with a music soft and sweet, And ’neath the shadows of tall, sighing pines, That, in the fircest noon, create a soft, Cool, cloistered light upon the sward beneath, The dusky brave, fierce now no more, stolen 68 THE MERRIMACK RIVER Oft at the twilight hour, and when the young New moon hath tipped with silver bough, and rock, And wave, to murmur into willing ears Love’s witching story, told full oft, yet new As when ’twas whispered in fair Eden’s bowers. Sweet Merrimack! For ages thus the stream Of human life ran on with thine, yet not As thine; for thou art as thou wast of old, When first the Indian chased along thy banks. But where is now the red man, true and brave? Alas! where once the child of nature trod, Unquestioned monarch of the land and wave, The many towered, busy. city stands! Hills that threw back the warwhoop’s fearful peal, When filled was this fair vale with sounds of strife, Now echo to the engine’s shriller scream, As swift and strong it flies, with goodly freight Of life and merchandise! By thy fair stream The Indian roams no more. No more he snares The artful trout, or lordly salmon spears; No more his swift- winged arrow strikes the deer. Towards the setting sun, with faltering limb And glaring eye, he seeks a distant home, Where withering foot of white man ne’er can come. And thy wild water, Merrimack, is tamed, And bound in servile chains which mind has forged To bind the stubborn earth, the free- winged air, The heaving ocean, and the rushing stream, Th’ obedient servants of a mightier will, E’en as a spirit caught in earth-born toils, As legends tell, and doomed to slave for him Who holds the strong, mysterious bond of power. And thou art now the wild, free stream no more, Playing all idly in thy channels old; Thy days of sportive beauty and romance Are gone. Yet, harnessed to thy daily toil, And all thy powers controlled by giant mind, And right directed, thou’rt a spirit still. And workest mightily for human good, Changing, in thine abundant alchemy, All baser things to gold. FRIENDLY GREETINGS Hiterarp Stssociations of tfjc /USerrtmatfe fttber ii a VOID would be left in the literary associations of the Merrimack was the memory of that gifted worshiper of the White Hills, Starr King,* for- gotten. To his pen more than all others, the kings of northern mountains, “Discoursing like sentinels to the sky,” owe their immortality in literature. “He discovered them *Thomas Starr King was born in New York city December 24, 1824, the oldest child of Thomas F. King, an eloquent minister in the Universa- list church. The father, ^distinguished in his day by his fervid apostolic style of preaching, after several years of service in Hudson and New York, was settled in Portsmouth, N. H., but died in Charleston, Mass. Left at the age of twelve, the sole dependence of his widowed mother, who had five children younger than he, Thomas Starr King was a self-educated, self-placed man. He entered upon his line of duty with that joyous sense of power which characterized his brilliant but brief career. In September, 1845, h e preached his first sermon at Woburn, Mass. Never strong, at twenty-three he was broken in health, For twelve years as pastor, preacher, lecturer, literary man and social factor, he gave the best he had to that city, so fortunate in its heritage of admirable men. During those years he sought regularly the clear, bracing atmosphere of the White Hills, which he grew to love so well, there to retain with that undiscovered vitality known to few of frail bodies his fleeting physical power. Finally he felt obliged to seek the milder climate of California, where he died of diphtheria March 4, 1864, in his fortieth year. — Editor. 69 70 THE MERRIMACK RIVER in their pristine glory; he left them in a halo of revealed light.” And these mountains are the birthplace of our river. ’Mid its crags and cliffs it was born, and if it spurned with childish wantonness its mother, it carried with it to the sea her memory, her songs of freedom. The poet dreams this when he declares in faultless measure: I feel the cool breath of the North Between me and the sun, O’er deep, still lake and ridgy earth, I saw the cloud shades run. Before me, stretched for glistening miles, Lay mountain-girdled Squam; Like green-winged birds the leafy isles Upon its bosom swam. And, glimmering through the sun-haze warm, Far as the eye could roam, Dark billows of an earthquake storm, Bedecked with clouds like foam, Their vales in misty shadow deep, Their rugged peaks in shine, I saw the mountain ranges sweep The horizon’s northern line. There towered Chocorua’s peak; and west, Moosilauke’s woods were seen, With many a nameless slide-scarred crest And pine-dark gorge between. Beyond them, like a sun-rimmed cloud, The great Notch mountains shone, Watched over by the solemn browed And awful face of stone. Well did Stirling say, gazing upon such a landscape as borders the matchless Merrimack: I looked upon a plain of green, That some one called the Land of Prose, Where many living things are seen, In movement or repose. I looked upon a stately hill That well was named the Mount of Song, Where golden shadows wait at will The woods and streams among. LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS 71 But most this fact my wonder bred, Though known by all the nobly wise, It was the mountain streams that fed The fair green plain’s amenities. Following the winding Pemigewasset, the main branch of the Merrimack Overhung By beechen shadows, whitening down its rocks, he says: “The valley is broader than that of the upper Saco, and the hills do not huddle around the road; the distances are more artistic, and the lights and shades have better chance to weave their more subtle witchery upon the dis- tant mountains that bar the vision — upon the whaleback of Moosilauke and the crags and spires that face each other in the Franconia Notch. The picture of the Pemigewaset is one of prominent pleasure. . . . How briskly it cuts its way in sweeping curves through the luxuriant fields of Campton, and with what pride it is watched for miles of its wanderings by the Welch mountain completely filling the background, from which its tide seems to be pouring, and upon whose shoulders, perhaps, the clouds are busily dropping fantastic shawls of shadows! In this part of its course, the river is scarcely less free than it was in the days which Whittier'-alludes to in his noble apostrophe to the Merrimack: Oh, child of that white-crested mountain whose springs Gush forth in the shade af the cliff eagle’s wings, Down whose slopes to the lowlands thy wild waters shine, Leaping gray walls of rock, flashing through the dwarf pine. From that cloud-curtained cradle so cold and so lone, From the arms of that wintry-locked mother of stone; By hills hung with forests, through vales wide and free, Thy mountain-born brightness glanced down to the sea. No bridge arched thy waters save that where the trees Stretched their long arms above thee, and kissed in the breeze : No sound save the lapse of the waves on thy shores, The plunging of otters, the light dip of oars. 72 THE MERRIMACK RIVER Mr. Nathaniel Berry, in his “Last of the Penacooks,” gives us some pleasant insights into the story of man and river, and added his share to the literature of the valley and its people. A native of Pittsfield, the author knew whereof he spoke in describing scenery, while his imagina- tion flew a felicitous arrow in its flights. The book has become far too scarce, and I have yet to see a third copy, though it was published in recent years and by a house that only a short time since ceased to publish. Two authors of local repute, Messrs. Samuel D. Lord and William E. Moore, added their part to the scientific knowledge of the river’s natural features, not to mention the researches of Professor Hitchcock. Mr. Francis B. Eaton, in his “Story of Lake Massa- besic,” gives us happy insights into the beautiful biography of that charming sheet of water known to the dusky seekers after eternal light as “The Eyes of the Sky.” This historian waxes eloquent over his subject in a descrip- tion which happily associates the past with the present. “Connecting the white-sanded beaches shores extend, piled high with boulders indicative of oldtime storms and winds, echoes of which to this day greet the luckless voyager who happens to be out in his frail canoe or cranky sailboat. Wooded slopes run down to the water’s edge, luxuriant vines cluster on fine old trees, the wild grape perfumes the autumn groves. Only the other day the bear found his favorite high blueberry in sheltered dells; wild geese rested here in their long flights hither and yon, and great flocks of ducks found free ports of entry in many a safe retreat. Deer browsed in the surrounding forests; the lordly loon trumpeted his defiance in the lee of his chosen island, or disappeared with lightning celerity at the crack of the rifle. Acres of flooded marshlands furnished feeding ground for perch or pickerel. Alewives crowded in shoals up the Cohas in the season, and suckers abounded when the win- ter snows moved off.” Mrs. Harriet Prescott Spofford, who was pleased to LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS 73 lay the scenes of one of her most famous stories upon its shores, says: “Among the lakes of New Hampshire there is one of extreme beauty. A broad, shadowy water some nine miles in length, with steep, thickly wooded shores, and here and there, as if moored on its calm surface, an island, fit for a bower of bliss.” The poetess, Mrs. Clara B. Heath, who lived near its beautiful shore for several years, has given us some of her gems of verse in connection with these twin bodies of water: Two broad blue bays that stretch out east and west, Dotted with fairy isles of living green, And midway where the waters seem to rest In narrow bed, two curving shores between, A time-worn bridge that long has stood the test Of stormy winds and restless tides is seen. The outlet of this lake, Cohas brook, is one of the most fortunate tributaries of the Merrimack. No sweeter tribute to the noble river of which we write has been paid it than the poem of Mr. Allen East- man Cross, “At the Falls of Namoskeag.”* Three souls shall meet in our gracious river, The soul of the mountains, staunch and free The soul of the Indians’ “Lake of the Spirit,” And the infinite soul of the shining sea. Mr. Nathan Hale, who thought best to sign himself “A Gentleman from Boston,” has left us a felicitous account of an “Excursion to Winnipiseogee.” Its title page bears the date of 1833, and as an example of quiet humor and purity of expression it is difficult to find its equal in this day of Kipling and Londonarian literature (save the mark!). After describing the beginning of his journey, Mr. Hale goes on to say: “Noon brought us to Haverhill, on the north bank of the Merrimack, a town no less beautiful from its natural ♦This poem was given entire, printed upon one of our linen inserts- pages 97-104, Volume I. — Editor . 74 THE MERRIMACK RIVER situation than from the aspect of its buildings. Its antiqui- ties and history afford some tragical, and many romantic, incidents for the embellishment of future novels and the catastrophies of future dramatic compositions. The sack of the town by the Indians and French in 1708, the heroic conduct of Mrs. Dustin, the sagacity and address of Hagar the slave, in secreting the two infants, and many other events which are yet fresh in tradition, narrated with truth and embellished with the colors of an imagination that could remigrate a century and a half, would be as interest- ing as it would be novel. I dislike historical romances even from the pen of Florian, because they confound history. But those whose bodies are real, and where dress only is fanciful, like the historical plays of Shakespeare, personify the age, assist our conceptions of character and actions, and bring the very fashions and pressure of the times home to our bosoms. After dining at the hotel, we stopped the stage on the Exeter road to receive Mr. W., who was to conduct us to the White Hills but, not being ready, he promised to join us to-morrow. While the horses stopped to bait, after we left , curiosity prompted me to look at the unwashed cheeks of Mrs. . Thirty-seven years had elapsed since a beauti- ful girl of fifteen sat on the knee of Washington at . A kiss of Washington could not leave a spot on the charriest maiden’s cheek, and if it had it would always be considered a beauty spot which no fair one would erase. As Wash- ington passed to New Hampshire, he was conducted through this route, to be present at the wedding of his sec- retary, Mr. Lear. People of each sex and all ages flocked from every part of the country to see him. Two beautiful girls went on the day previous to their relative’s, where he was to lodge, in order to see the reputed Father of his Country. After the evening levee was ended, they were introduced, LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS 75 with reference, by them jolly relation, to the visit of the queen of a far distant, country to see the glory of Israel. Their modest, gentle and affectionate carriage exceedingly gratified the General and engaged his attention. Nothing tends more to social intercourse than the performance of some little favor. One of Washington’s gloves had a rip — one of the girls, without speaking, took it up, repaired it and silently put it on the sofa. Washington observed the act and, instead of complimenting, took her hand and drew her towards him and impressed a kiss on her cheek. All this was a movement of the heart on the part of both. She declared she would never wash that spot; and I could not help thinking, as I looked upon her, that the rosy blush had not been impaired by time, and that like the immortal amaranth it retained its freshness and beauty, fed by the “sweet contentment of her thoughts.” The brightest links in the literature of the Merrimack are formed by that gifted trio, Thoreau, Emerson, Whit- tier, and it were sufficient that a river should have these. Among the prose writers Thoreau* has left us the most imperishable monument in his “Week upon the Con- cord and Merrimack River.” To us it seems enough that he should have written this, in some respects his master- piece. Following his happy introduction he goes on to say: “We were thus'entering the state of New Hampshire on the bosom of the flood formed by the tribute of its innumerable valleys. The river was the only key which ♦Henry David Thoreau was born in Concord, Mass., July 12, 1817, aud died where he had lived the last few years of his life, in the old- fashioned dwelling known as the Thoreau-Alcott house, May 6, 1862. Filled with an extraordinary love for nature he devoted his life to its study. Believing in prudent and economical living, he sought to prove his theory, and built a hut upon the shore of Walden pond, where he lived for two years and about which he wove the threads of his most famous book, “ Walden, or Life in the Woods.” The primitive dwelling has gone the way of its builder, but its site is marked with a cairn of stones, growing like his reputation as the years go by with stone upon stone added by admiring visitors to the hallowed spot. — Editor. 76 THE MERRIMACK RIVER could unlock its maze, presenting its hills and valleys, its lakes and streams, in their natural order and position. The Merrimack, or Sturgeon, river, is formed by the confluence of the Pemigewasset, which rises near the Notch of the White Mountains, and the Winnepisiogee, which drains the lake of the same name, signifying “The Smile of the Great Spirit.” From their junction it runs south seventy- eight miles to Massachusetts, and thence east thirty-five miles to the sea. I have traced its stream from where it bubbles out of the rocks of the White Mountains above the clouds, to where it is lost amid the salt billows of the ocean on Plum Island Beach. At first it comes on mur- muring to itself by the base of stately and retired moun- tains, through moist primitive woods whose juices it receives, where the bear still drinks it, and the cabins of settlers are far between, and there are few to cross its stream; enjoying in solitude its cascades still unknown to fame; by long ranges of mountains of Sandwich and of Squam, slumbering like tumuli of Titans, with the peaks of Moosehillock, the Haystack and Kearsarge reflected in its waters; where the maple and the raspberry, those lovers of the hills, flourish amid temperate dews; — flowing long and full of meaning, but untranslatable as its name Pemige- wasset, by many a pastured Pelion and Ossa, where unnamed muses haunt, tended by Oreads, Dryads, Naiads, and receiving the tribute of many an untasted Hippocrene. There are earth, air, fire, and water, — very well, this is water, and down it comes. Such water do the gods distil, And pour down every hill For their New England men; A draught of this wild nectar bring. And I’ll not taste the spring Of Helicon again. HENRY D. THOREAU Hiterarp associations of tfjc Merrimack SECitocr ill C 1 'HOREAU’S vivid description continues in the same strain, in making his passage of the danger- ous section of the river: Falling all the way, and yet not discouraged by the lowest fall. By the law of its birth never to become stag- nant, for it has come out of the clouds, and down the sides of precipices worn in the flood, through beaver dams broke loose, not splitting but splicing and mending itself, until it found a breathing place in this low land. There is no danger now that the sun will steal it back to heaven again before it reaches the sea, for it has a warrant even to recover its own dews" into its bosom again with interest at every eye. “A Week on the Concord and Merrimack Rivers/’ Thoreau’s first book, was not a financial success. I think the entire edition was not far from a thousand copies, of which over nine hundred remained unsold for a long time. He used to remark that his library consisted of about a thousand volumes, of which he wrcte nine hundred. The failure of this work caused him not a little pecuniary embarrassment, and compelled him to give up thoughts of writing for a time and return to his surveying, at which he was skillful. Is it the irony of fate that to-day these same volumes sell for twenty dollars each? 77 78 THE MERRIMACK RIVER He was not inclined to associate in mixed company to any extent, remarking at one time, “I had rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than to be crowded on a velvet chair.” Yet he was a brilliant conversationalist when the company was congenial and he was in the mood. With one of his abstemious manner of living and careful husbanding of his physical resources, it seems incongruous that both he and his beautiful wife should die in the prime of life of that dread scourge of New England. The splendid courage of neither failed until the dread summons came. Say not that Caesar was victorious. With toil and strife he stormed the house of Fame. In other sense this youth was glorious, Himself a kingdom wheresoe’er he came. Nor is it sufficient that we should mention Thoreau and Emerson* in the associations of the Merrimack and its literature. Others of the Concord immortal galaxy of liter- ary stars helped to link its name with theirs and immortality. Again the author catches the latent spirit of the joy of his surroundings and exclaims: “Traveling on foot very early one morning due east from here about twenty miles, from Caleb Harriman’s tavern in Hampstead toward Haverhill, when I reached the railroad in Plaistow, I heard at some distance a faint music in the air like an ^Eolian harp, which I immediately sus- *Ralph Waldo Emerson was born in Boston, May 25, 1803, and died April 27, 1882, his place of repose in Sleepy Hollow marked by a huge granite boulder. He became a resident of Concord, which seemed the natural center for the circle to which he belonged, in 1835. The “Old Manse” was his abode when he wrote his first book, “Nature,” and it was made yet more famous when Nathaniel Hawthorne and his young bride became its tenants from 1843 t0 1846. “Mosses from an Old Manse,” by the first named, was written here, in a room on the second floor. The noble mansion in Concord, which became Emerson’s earlier home, has rung with the voices of Concord’s famous group, conspicuous among which were Thoreau, the Alcotts, Margaret Fuller, Hawthorne, and others. — Editor. JOHN GREENLEAF WHITTIER LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS 79 pected to proceed from the cord of the telegraph vibrating in the just awakening morning wind, and applying my ear to one of the posts I was convinced that it was so. It was the telegraph harp singing its message through the coun- try, its message sent not by men but by gods. Perchance, like the statute of Memnon, it resounds only in the morn- ing when the first rays of the sun fall on it. It was like the first lyre or shell heard on the seashore, — that vibrating cord high in the air over the shores of earth. So have all things their higher and their lower uses. I heard a fairer news than the journals ever print. It told of things worthy to hear, and worthy of the electric fluid to carry the news of, not of the price of cotton and flour, but it hinted at the price of the world itself and of things which are priceless, of absolute truth and beauty. “Still the drum rolled on and stirred our blood to fresh extravagance that night. The clarion sound and clang of corselet and buckler were heard from many a hamlet of the soul, and many a knight was arming for the fight behind the encamped stars. Away! away! away! away! Ye have not kept your secret well, I will abide that other day, Those other lands ye tell. Has time no leisure left for these, The acts that ye rehearse? Is not eternity a lease For better deeds than verse? No mention of the literary associations of the Merri- mack would be complete without including Whittier. In fact, we have already, half unconsciously, quoted liberally from him. While New Hampshire may not claim this gifted poet as a son, she is fortunate in having his name closely connected with her rivers, lakes and mountains. It was equally fortunate, too, that he knew these attrac- tions of nature at their best, ere they had been robbed of the poetry of a primeval past by the prose of the present day, forever pounding with its hammer of toil. 80 THE MERRIMACK RIVER He knew the Merrimack as “the stream of my fathers,” and glorified it as, “Type of the Northland’s strength and glory, Pride and hope of our home and race, — Freedom lending to rugged labor Tints of beauty and lines of grace.” Among the more ambitious offerings made to the liter- ature, none takes higher rank than Whittier’s “Bridal of Pennacook,” written in 1848. This is an Indian legend of great beauty, though marred in places by his abominable nomenclature, and the date ascribed to the story is at least fifty years too recent. In 1662 we have reason to believe that Passaconnaway was at Pawtucket, now Lowell. But leaving these matters, which must be considered trifles with a poet, the poem opens with a fantastic description of a bewildering transposition from where “The moon Rising behind Umbagog’s eastern pines, Like a great Indian camp fire; and its beams Spanning at midnight with a bridge of silver The Merrimack by Uncanoonuc’s falls.” We are given a glimpse of the storied era of the dusky days, That dim, strange land of Eld, now dying fast; And that which history gives not to the eye, The faded coloring of Time’s tapestry, Let Fancy with her dream-dipped brush supply. One of the gifts of a mighty chieftain of the red brotherhood was the gift of sorcery, which the sachem of the Pennacooks possessed to a marked degree, and the poet proceeds to describe, until we learn that the others were so deeply affected by his magic BIRTHPLACE LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS 81 Nightly down the river going, Swifter was the hunter’s rowing, When he saw that lodge fire glowing O’er the waters still and red; And the squaw’s dark eye burned brighter, And she drew her blanket tighter, As, with quick step and lighter, From that door she fled. V The proud old chieftain, somehow we like that title better than bashaba or sagamore or sachem, which indi- cated a somewhat lower dignity than Passaconnaway held — let us begin over again. Passaconnaway, according to the poet, was a widower, but this loss was made good by having a very beautiful daughter. A lone, stem man. Yet, as sometimes The tempest smitten tree receives From one small root the sap which climbs Its topmost spray and crowning leaves, So from his child the sachem drew A life of love and hope, and felt His cold, rugged nature through The softness and the warmth of her young being melt. We suppose there were really beautiful Indian maids. This dusky heroine, very properly for a story, became the object of the affections of a chief of one of the tribes living lower down the river, He seemed to find the maid an easy victim to his wooing, for soon comes the wedding When along the river great wood fires Shot into the night their long red spires, Showing behind the tall, dark wood, Flashing before on the sweeping flood. 82 THE MERRIMACK RIVER The trapper that night on Turee’s brook, And the weary fisher on Contoocook, Saw over the marshes and through the pine, And down on the river the dance-lights shine. The wedding must have been a grand affair, and the feast that followed worthy of so proud an occasion. Fish and game were brought by cunning hands from the four sections of the questland of the dusky hunter And drawn from the great stone vase which stands In the river scooped by a spirit’s hands, Garnished with spoons of shell and horn, Stood the birchen dishes of smoking corn. This happy event passing without a shadow to mar its beauty and solemnity, the bride goes to her new home, which is described with minute fidelity. She seems to have been happy in an Indian way, until her father sent a messenger declaring that he would be pleased to have a visit from her; that he pined for her in his loneliness, and hoped she had not forgotten him. Like a dutiful daughter she started for her paternal home, following the road of the wilderness, Till rolling down its wooded banks between, A broad, clear mountain stream, the Merrimack was seen. The visit was a happy one, but when it came time for her to return to her liege lord by the marshes of the lower river, her stern parent failed to offer such an escort as the young husband felt was due her. This created a family breach at once, and stern old Passaconnaway swore by such gods as he knew that she should never return to his upstart of a son-in-law. The latter would not relent and so the poor wife was left to grieve over her unhapppy fate. The summer fled And on Autumn’s gray and mournful grave the snow Hung its white wreaths; with stifled voice and low LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS 83 The river crept, by one vast bridge o’ercrossed, Built by the hoar-locked artisan of Frost. Unable to bear the separation longer, with the break- ing up of the river the following spring, the young wife set out alone upon her return in a frail boat down the river which bore on its angry bosom the ice-ruin of winter. Down the vexed center of that rushing tide, The thick huge ice-blocks threatening either side, The foam-white rocks of Amoskeag in view, With arrowy swiftness sped that light canoe. No more than the failing arm of the faithful wife was the slight craft equal to the task imposed upon it, and ere the rapids were passed Empty and broken circled the canoe In the vexed pool below — but, where was Weetamo? In close association with Whittier was the work of his protege, Lucy Larcom,* the sweet authoress of the mills of Lowell, while Mrs. Rebecca I. Davis of Haverhill, Mass., left his admirers a beautiful token of her esteem in two modest volumes called “Gleanings of the Merrimack Valley.” We cannot better close this rather hasty sketch than by quoting from Mr. George S. Dorr’sf beautiful poem, “The Minstrel’s Summer Home,” and inscribed to the Merrimack’s immortal bard: *Lucy Larcom was born in Beverly, Mass., in 1826, and died in Bos- ton in 1893. She worked in the Lowell and Lawrence mills, thus acquir- ing by personal experience many of the descriptions of real life she penned so sweetly. While an operative at the Lowell looms she edited the journal by mill girls since floated as the “The Lowell Offering.” Whit- tier was her staunch friend, and her best-known public works, outside of her work as editor of Our Young Folks , include “An Idyl of Work,” “As It Is in Heaven,” “The Unseen Friend,” and “Poems.” tA native of Wakefield and founder of the Carroll County Pioneer , which he has published for several years. — Editor. 84 THE MERRIMACK RIVER Sweet singer of our northern hills, Our valleys and our streams, You throw around us, by your words, The happiness of dreams; And each New England heart shall call For thee a blessing down, Aad weave a spray of amaranth, Within thy laurel crown. You love the scent of birch and pine, We read it in your song; You love the Bearcamp’s winding stream, That gently flow’s along; You love the hills of Ossipee, You love the elm-tree’s shade, And love to worship at the shrine Which nature there hath made. And in your pleasant home, beside The smiling Merrimack, You hear the call they send to you. And gladly answer back; In many seasons past and gone, Thy feet have wandered there, And through the heart there ran a joy, ’Mid verdure soft and fair. Drawn by Howard Pyle THE CAPTAIN’S WELL “He would drink and rest, and go home to tell That God’s best gift is the wayside well ! ” Qtty fountain /^atD By Edna Dean Proctor Among the poets of the Granite State, not one has caught with a deeper insight the glory of her hills and valleys, her lakes and rivers, than Miss Proctor, and among her gems of art and nature the follow- ing takes high rank. This gifted singer is a native of Henniker, but has lived much of her life in Brooklyn, N. Y. She has traveled in foreign countries extensively, but this has not taken from her that love for native land which abounds in the heart of every true poet. — Editor. O the Mountain Maid, New Hampshire! Her steps are light and free, Whether she treads the lofty heights Or follows the brooks to the sea! Her eyes are clear as the skies that hang Over her hills of snow, And her hair is dark as the densest shade That falls where the fir-trees grow— The fir-trees, slender and somber, That climb from the vales below. Sweet is her voice as the robin’s, In a lull of the wind of March, Wooing the shy arbutus At the roots of the buddng larch; And rich as the ravishing echoes On still Franconia’s Lake, When the boatman winds his magic horn, And the tongues of the wood awake, WLile the huge Stone Face forgets to frown And the hare peeps out of the brake. The blasts of dreary December But brighten the bloom on her cheek, And the snows rear her statelier temples Than to goddess were built by the Greek. She welcomes the fervid summer, And flies to the sounding shore Where bleak Boar's Head looks seaward, Set in the billows’ roar. And dreams of her sailors and fishers Till cool days come once more. . - ' ’ V : • i ' ■ - ■ ■ ■ r* -imj'IiisiH V- • .v ' ;* ?!!:' br./t:s abd! r r; il ct'Ai 1 ■■ : ■-.> .V ,/i . • ' i f:l :Y' ••’•i ' tsvil *sri , . .... : ... - w to nnsd 9rt'r n! aLnwode ftoirfv " . C • '■ • > • >Ji\ or 9 if!, a} ! r.-> j di oi eA >0* • Y 1 •: Hoi tO r> - ill 1 teirfa oii; v h ? t *? >lo r;r. £» --o > I f wona lo ai.id i { ju t » O ' i.v -ifib v: * A -.v i„ s it s*&dw efifix tedT . : : . . - l'- :»;■// . *•»!.•: v c * ‘ f ' - b;..* t r : . s lid • . It i. r I sow?. . r i, .. (,b :i-> .• h >- ' •• : ■*• v •* .". ' . o' ; • ' ' '>:'A ,dWs.I tr^ino'jnf '/•I 1 *8 nO \ • . - " ; • " ft ■ -.f - • odx hnA rtwcil Ci ?-.•• gtoY orr.'j **.:■• . rj:>yQ * t • - f : odT r 1 • ■ ! t'l-' > i ' ssfqotsi iMbirts Ti*d tct.T odi baA - , - ■> ■ .-(j i:,( */: av/ ■" ^rtibnaoe o;(. od boA 4 |r; •* I ■’ iT i . t: > C V . tiild n i~ ; i : cnolhiP. i9ii 'to cm b brtA .••r,,,. ; epro ; ^ab I« r o ifiT THE MOUNTAIN MAID Then how fair is the Maiden, Crowned with the scarlet leaves, And wrapped in the tender, misty veil That Indian Summer weaves! While the aster blue, and the golden-rod, And immortelles, clustering sweet, From Canada down to the sea have spread A carpet for her feet; And the faint witch-hazel buds unfold, Her latest smile to greet. She loves the song of the reapers, The ring of the woodman’s steel, The whirr of the glancing shuttle, The rush of the tireless wheel. But, if war befalls, her sons she calls From mill and forge and lea, And bids them uphold her banner Till the land from strife is free; And she hews her oaks into vengeful ships That sweep the foe from the sea. 0 the Mountain Maid, New Hampshire! For beauty and wit and will I’ll mate her to-day with the fairest That rules over plain and hill! New York is a princess in purple, By the gems of her cities crowned; Illinois with the garland of Ceres Her tresses of gold has bound— Queen of the limitless prairies, Whose great sheaves heap the ground; And out by the far Pacific, Their gay young sisters say, “Ours are the mines of the Indies And the treasures of broad Cathay ’ ’ ; And the dames of the South walk proudly, Where the fig and the orange fall, And, hid in the high magnolias, The mocking thrushes call ; But the Mountain Maid, New Hampshire, Is the rarest of them all! . ■ . . t i ' ■■ : : ' o;I ! v& -r ienv ■ • < I JfxnT : . ; -• • ; • " r - . . - l x i: .v l h . •.* ' k bt ■ jv> d , ;tt • i / : .»•; A j x 'yj s' , ' : • - ' j. . - X J99T& 0- -H j. Jt3i' \t ’u ^n. , jrfT , ‘ tJtfrfCgi:' lO' iWvT9ffT ■ i jlO / . ■ - r ? : [ t ' ' ’ ■ . \ -••• :V. !• , : * f.v. L;tA : ' ,n ? ' i u : iw J *? J [ ;*IX. I lllr - ■ ri " ? srfT , ■ : : ; - , ih , .. £ 1 • a'sI'1 ; boiiwor:* i ; 8 M 99 9t(J < . j " . ; ' -‘.ionvil 'j " • >'»•; p ;v » VS V ... ... V . aoibsl 9si3 \o ’ siii £>73 raiO * * * ^irflsO t o l; t tA ■ >i ' :rt " r ,fc/ A . . ! ’ ; • - - I m ’ t . s* It a! Drawn by J. Warren Thyng. Engraved by Eugene Mulerts THE OLD MILL Cbe ©lb .(©ill By Maurice Baldwin An old mill, falling to picturesque ruin, has ever been a subject of peculiar interest to the painter, as well as a favorite theme of the poet. Associations, joyous or sad, blend with the moss and the decay and cling to the relic of years long past. Mills like that which our artist and poet have so beautifully pic- tured, have almost become only a memory. Few of the many that the hillside streams once turned, can now be found in the state ; and these are remote from main highways. Older residents of Gilford, seeing its likeness, will readily call to mind the old mill that once stood on the brook a short distance beyond the village. Not long ago the last timbers of the ruin fell, and little remains to mark the spoTwhere it stood. — Editor. I And its broken wheel is still ; On the stream’s untroubled breast OSSES cover the Old Mill, Spotless lilies rear their crest, But the willows whisper yet Things they never can forget — ~U ■' " !.)'• r • v'< ‘ : ■■ . uri • *’:0Vbi : • .'7/ Vi; - ■ ~ r~ j : i,i> • ' ■ ! ■ 1 • --'.Vi- : THE OLD MILL Days when all the world was young, Days when happy children sung, Underneath their branches, songs With no burden of life’s wrongs; Days when work, with merry sound, Filled the sun’s unclouded round — Stream and Mill are dreaming o’er All the busy days of yore, When, with many a creak and strain, They once ground the farmer’s grain, And a half-sad beauty clings To the worn-out useless things, O sweet Glamour of Decay, — Bloom of things that pass away ! Thou dost lend a tender grace To the Past’s time-softened face; Sweet and dim the old days seem Like our memories of a dream. d.uo'|.-i«7/ fchov - !i : j nariw ^v.cG njsid ,' 5 rt J:-noo3 ffti *f .Out/ norfw 2yr>G - t tebuo'iM i 2'nua -.fit OsHH - . ■ ■" - •• jviAp. ban itf&rj •; vj m ntiv/ .nariW $•> eV.; .:• ui\ tuff b: - yono y ’ e; . . o • r On/. j — t >. i to n orru ■ > . . '.Vf-ij i'.'Jo '. { I « • • i . 1 jBtUs of l^ancijesiter C 1 ’HAT country alone is great whose manufacturing advantages are allied with the cunning of the brain and the skill of the human hand. It is true that agriculture is the oldest employment of man and its accom. plishment the foundation of his upbuilding, but it never lifts a timber above the sills of his superstruction. “Home, ward the plowman plods his weary way” empty-handed. The barbarian may be, and often is, an agriculturist, but his feet are earth-bound. The shepherd, tending his flocks on the sunny slopes of some Iverness, may fill an idyllic life, but he is only a dreamer. The range of the Arab is as far-reaching as the ring of his fleet-footed steed; the roof of his tent is as wide as the blue-arched dome of the Persian sky, and his freedom undoubted; but his legacy to posterity is as barren as the sands of Sahara. It is not until man begins to exercise his fertile mind in the inven- tion and making of those things which shall enable him to broaden the scope of his labors that he starts on his upward course. Even in this stage of progress, his capacity to do and attempt is helpless until he calls to his assistance the latent powers of nature. Then the river becomes his most potent ally. As an agricultural territory New Hamp- shire could never have become to any extent a noticeable factor in the march of progress or power. But with her 85 86 TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN NEW ENGLAND excellent water privileges, in proportion to her area, she is in the ranks of the progressive states. And the Merrimack, “the busiest river in the world,” is the source of her great- ness. Not only does this “river of broken waters” afford the power for the majority — the most — of her manufactur- ing industries, but it has given the impetus to the progress and growth of four prominent cities of the Bay State, Lowell, Lawrence, Haverhill and Amesbury. Passing by this quartet of industrial centers, of which we hope to speak later, we will in this number sketch the development of those gigantic manufacturing interests made possible by the falls of Amoskeag. This rugged waterfall has a descent of forty-five feet, carrying over its dam, when the water has a depth of one foot above its rim, 3,700 to 3,800 cubic feet every second during the working hours of the machinery that it turns. The current of the river is so slight that a flowage is accomplished which reaches back to the falls of Annabesit.* or Hooksett, a distance of eight miles. The area covered is 443 acres, and the average rise obtained upon October I, 1908, was 3.325 inches. The river above Pawtucket Falls at Lowell has a flowage of eighteen miles. These, with other water privileges of note, help to make the Merrimack the river remarkable for its power. It was as noted to the aboriginal inhabitants in its pristine glory for its fisheries as it is to-day for its manu- facturing industries. Amoskeag Falls was especially well- -known among the early pioneers, who little realized the possibilities lurking under the lash of its foaming current, as a “horrible cataract.” Hither came the good Parson McGregor, as early as the summer of 1719, one of the very first of the white settlers in this vicinity, to gaze with awe and pious veneration upon the falls. The first recorded evidence that we have of the place was given by *This is an Indian term signifying “little place for fish,” in compar- son to Namaske, or Amoskeag, “great place for fish.” — Author. THE AMOSKEAG MANUEACTURING COMPANY 87 Capt. William Tyng in December, 1703, when that doughty- pioneer led his band of snow-shoe men upon their memor- able wintry march into the “North Country” in search of Indian prey. The first man to express his belief in the possibilities of this water power was Judge Samuel Blodget. But his mind and means were engrossed in the subtile undertak- ing of setting at defiance the waterfalls by building his canals. He came upon the scene of action too early to lead the way in this enterprise, as he certainly would have done had he been born a few years later. Thus it was left to a worthy pioneer in New England manufactories, Mr. Benja- min Prichard, to harness the legions of an idle river to the looms of industry. He had served his apprenticeship at Ipswich, where the first cotton mill had been erected in New Hampshire in 1803. After working here six years, this ambitious young man, in conjunction with three brothers named Ephraim, David and Robert Stevens, came to Amoskeag, then a part of the town of Goff st own, and built their mill, the first cotton mill on the Merrimack above Pawtucket Falls. The business grew so rapidly that it was soon thought necessary to form a stock company, which was christened “The Amoskeag Cotton and Wool Factory.” This name was changed the following June to “The Amoskeag Cotton and Woolen Manufacturing Company.” The first board of directors consisted of James Parker, Samuel P. Kidder, John Stark, Jr., David McQuestion and Benjamin Prichard. The first-named was chosen president and Jotham Gillis was made clerk and selling agent. He was succeeded in order by Philemon Walcott, John G. Moor and Frederick Stark. Compared with the mills of to-day, this was a primitive affair, having neither picker nor loom, and it made but slow, though deserving, progress along its un- trodden way. No small meed of praise belongs to those sanguine leaders in the industrial world. The factory was about forty feet square and two stories high, situated midway between the head and foot of 88 TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN NEW ENGLAND the falls, directly below the west end of Amoskeag bridge. The cotton used was parcelled out to the families living in the neighborhood, to be ginned at four cents a pound. The yarn was woven by hand by women who had looms in their homes. The Rev. Cyrus W. Wallace said in one of his discourses: I have examined the accounts kept in the beautiful round hand of Jndge Stark for the month of October, 1813, and for fifteen days in succes- sion. During the month there were manufactured, at Amoskeag, three hundred and fifty-eight skeins per day of cotton yarn. This was about the average amount: the three hundred and fifty-eight skeins at factory price were worth twenty-nine dollars and twenty-two cents. After some changes in its management and increased knowledge and capital, in 1826, the old original mill was enlarged and a new one was built upon the river bank, with another upon an island,* which was burned May 14, 1840. The second structure raised on the bank was known as “The Bell Mill,” from the fact that a bell there called the operatives to work. Shirtings, sheetings and tickings were now manufactured, the latter commodity winning a wide reputation as the “A. C. A.” tickings. Both of the mills upon the bank were consumed by fire March 28, 1848. Until July 13, 1831, the manufacturing was carried on as a private enterprise with varying success according to *This island was reached by a bridge that spanned the rapids from the west bank, near where the P. C. Cheney Paper Mills were afterwards built. The fire which destroyed the island mill seems to have been the first fire of special mention in Manchester. A local writer, Mr. E. F. Roper, in the Observant Citizen’s column in the Union , says that in 1846 there were several buildings on the island, namely: a machine shop, foundry, dry house and a large house occupied by three families. Cyrus Baldwin, who afterwards invented the seamless bag loom, was boss of the shops. Among the hands were two who deserve especial notice: S. H. Roper, the builder of the first successful steam carriage, and G. A. Rollins, who later built steam engines at Nashua. The other cotton mills were nearer the village, which it was then believed was to become the heart of the coming city. This was in the days when Farmer owned the old hotel or tavern, a noted resort, and John Allison kept the village grocery. — Author. THE AMOSKEAG MANUFACTURING COMPANY 89 the capital and exprience given it. Upon July i of this year, the state legislature authorized the formation of the Amoskeag Manufacturing Company with a capital limited to a million dollars, a great sum for that day. The incorpo- rators were Oliver Dean, Ira Gay, Willard Sayles, Larned Pitcher, Lyman Tiffany and Samuel Slater. At the first meeting Mr Tiffany was chosen president; Mr. Gay was made clerk, and Oliver Dean agent and treasurer. This was the most important meeting ever held in the interest of the company, inasmuch as its counsels and acts laid the foundation of the future of the manufacturing interests of the Merrimack at this place. It was unani- mously agreed that the property of the old firm should be taken for stock in the new company, and it was decided that the new organization should acquire possession by purchase the title to the land on both sides of the river, though it was settled that henceforth the main mills should be located upon the east bank, where the engineers declared it was most feasible to build canals and to utilize the water power. The company, in 1835, acquired the property of the Isle of Hooksett Canal Company, the Bow Canal Company and the Union Locks and Company, located at different points along the river. The following year the Hooksett Manufacturing Company, which had a capital of two hundred thousand dollars, was merged with the Amoskeag. About this time the first brick mill upon the Merrimack was built in Hooksett from brick made near at hand. The falls here have a perpendicular descent of six- teen feet and are capable of carrying one hundred thousand spindles. The Amoskeag Company operated this privilege until 1865, when it sold the franchise to a new corporation with a capital stock of one million dollars, authorized by the legislature. In 1837 the Concord Manufacturing Com- pany became a part of the Amoskeag. The Amoskeag Manufacturing Company not only obtained a control of the water power of the Merrimack from Concord to Manchester, but purchased large tracts 90 TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN NEW ENGLAND of land, fifteen hundred acres on the east side, joining upon the river und reaching back into what was then wild country. In 1837 the company made a plan of the future city of Manchester, and laid out the site of a town, with the main street running parallel with the river, and in 1838 it sold land divided into lots for building and business privileges. This movement not only brought into the market much land to become valuable in the following years, increasing as time passed by, but it opened the way to the coming city. This wise foresight is seen to-day in the well-arranged streets and commons that are such a blessing to our city, making it one of the best-regulated in New England. In the meantime the company had been active in its own direct business. The wooden dam across the river, built a few years before, was repaired in 1836, and the fol- lowing year the construction of a wing dam of stone, with guard locks, was begun on the east side. This was com- pleted in 1840. In 1838 the rights, site and water privi- leges, for a new company, incorporated as the Stark Mills, were sold which corporation exists to-day. The first building erected on the east side was the Stark Mills counting room, a part of which was used for a time by the land and water power department of the Amoskeag Manu- facturing Company. The first mills built on the east side were Nos. 1 and 2 of the Stark Corporation, and were erected in 1838 and 1839, respectively. After the burning of the Island Mill in 1840, the Amoskeag Company built two new ones just below the Stark Mills, and added to these as their demands increased. A machine shop was built in 1840 and in 1842 a foundry to meet the requirements of the increasing business. In 1845 they sold land for a new corporation, known as the Manchester Print Works, and erected mills for the new company. This corporation, after over fifty years of suc- cessful operation, in 1905 was absorbed by the Amoskeag Company and its mills are to-day a part of the property THE AMOSKEAG MANUFACTURING COMPANY 91 and business of that company. In 1859 the manufacture of the famous Amoskeag steam fire engines was begun. During this period of constant growth of its industry the original idea of the development of a city was ever prominent in the purposes of the company. Tenements and boarding-houses for their operatives and those working for the other corporations were erected, and land sold for business sites and dwelling houses. In the matter of public buildings a generous and beneficial policy was car- ried out, land being given for sites of churches and public buildings. These founders of the Amoskeag Manufacturing Company, and incidentally the founders of Manchester, deserve a large meed of credit for their sagacity and enter- prise. It must be remembered, when an account of their work is taken into consideration, that their undertaking was entirely along an unmarked path. The manufacture of the goods they purposed to put on the market was in the infancy of its growth even in England, then in the lead of the manufactures of the world. There were no practical mechanics in the country to accomplish any design they might invent. It was only a short time before their organ- ization that it had been found expedient to manufacture raw cotton into finished cloth in the same mill, and thus two distinct branches Ead been carried on to accomplish one result. The power loom was the means to revolutionize the outcome and it has been claimed, with what seems good authority, that Phinehas Adams, Sr., was the first man in America to successfully run the power loom. No prouder monument to their success is needed than the great indus- try and prosperous city which has sprung up on the unsightly sandbanks overlooking the scene of their labors. This, in brief, is the story of the rise and progress of the Amoskeag Manufacturing Company, giving employ- ment to over 15,000 persons and having an annual output of about 200,000,000 yards of cotton cloth and 20,000,000 yards of worsted cloth. The mills have a floor space of 92 TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN NEW ENGLAND no acres and have 600,000 spindles with 19,000 looms The weekly pay-roll is $ 112,000 and the amount of capital invested is $5,760,900. What is termed as the quick cap- ital is at $10,412,521.19, which represents the assets. The land and water power is valued at $400,000; the mills and machinery, $2,550,000; reserve, $10,000; bag mill, $40,000; plant, $3,000,000. The report of the treasurer at a recent meeting of the stockholders showed that during the past year the company has spent $500,000 in the purchase of new machinery, and that the profit and loss is placed at $1,924,993.44. The cotton goods on hand June 30, 1907, were valued at $512,911.41; cost of manufacture, $14,969,- 932.94; interest, $13,265.04; guarantee, $52,648.46; profit for twelve months, $1,250,655.49; total, $16,799,413.34; goods sold, $16,109,124.75; goods on hand June 30, 1908, $690,288.59; total, $16,799,413.34. In the worsted goods department there were on hand a year ago, dyed and finished, 980,253 yards, while there has been finished dur- ing the year, 12,301,687% yards; total, 13,281,940 yards. This company at least has avoided the common mistake made by Americans in many lines of industries, where a person is allowed to come to the front poorly equipped for the responsibility that he has to fill. The Amoskeag Company believes that no man, however keen in his perception, can master a trade in a short time, and this is at least one place where skill is fostered and experi- ence counts above a passing claim to utility. The result is evident to the most casual beholder. Employing a high grade of labor and having a management conducted upon principles of integrity and fair dealing, the Amoskeag Manufacturing Company has moved steadily and smoothly on in the industrial sphere whether the tide of business ebbed or flowed. Herman F. Straw is the present clerk of the corpora- tion, and the board of directors elected are T. Jefferson Coolidge, George A. Gardner, George Dexter, Charles W: Amory, George Von Meyer, T. Jefferson Coolidge, Jr., Drawn for this Magazine by J. Warren Thyng ‘Its pines above, its waves below, The west wind down it blowing.” <®ur fttber By John Greenleaf Whittier The following beautiful tribute was written for, and read at, a summer festival held at “The Laurels,” on the banks of the Merrimack, in 1878. NCE more on yonder laurelled height The summer flowers have budded; Once more with summer's golden light The vales of home are flooded; And once more, by the grace of Him Of every good the Giver, We sing upon its wooded rim The praises of our river: Its pines above, its waves below, The west-wind down it blowing, As fair as when the young Brissot Beheld it seaward flowing, — And bore its memory o’er the deep, To soothe a martyr’s sadness, And fresco, ia his troubled sleep, His prison-walls with gladness. We know the world is rich with streams Renowned in song and story, Whose music murmurs through our dreams Of human love and glory: We know that Arno’s banks are fair, And Rhine has casled shadows, And, poet-tuned, the Doon and Ayr Go singing down their meadows. But while, unpictured and unsung By painter or by poet, Our river waits the tuneful tongue And cunning hand to show it, — . ■ ill sW . ( n;rl gnm^uo I)fiA OUR RIVER We only know the fond skies lean Above it, warm with blessing, And the sweet soul of our Undine Awakes to our caressing. No fickle sun-god holds the flocks That graze its shores in keeping; No icy kiss of Dian mocks The youth beside it sleeping: Our Christian river loveth most The beautiful and human; The heathen streams of Naiads boast, But ours of man and woman. The miner in his cabin hears The ripple we are hearing; It whispers soft to homesick ears Around the settler’s clearing: In Sacramento’s vales of corn. Or Santee’s bloom of cotton, Our river by its valley born Was never yet forgotten. But blue skies smile, and flowers bloom on, And rivers still keep flowing, — The dear God still his rain and sun On good^and ill bestowing. His pine-trees whisper, “Trust and wait!’’ His flowers are prophesying That all we dread of change or fall His love is underlying. And thou, O Mountain-born! — no more We ask the Wise Allotter Than for the firmness of thy shore. The calmness of thy water, The cheerful lights that overlay Thy rugged slopes with beauty, To match our spirits to our day And make a joy of duty. \ .. . . - i. . - . . i ' - ; i * :■-•••: ■ ! ' • ■ Bt tfje Jfalte of ^amosfceag By Allen Eastman Cross When Samuel Blodget predicted that ancient Derryfield was one day “destined to become the Manchester of America,” he stood by the falls of Amoskeag. There was the power that made possible a great manufacturing city. It has seemed to me that there was no theme more vital to the growth of the city of Manchester, or more poetic in its suggestiveness, than these same falls. I have, therefore, woven their legend and history into verse, calling them by their former Indian name, the Falls of Namoskeag. — Author . Three souls shall meet in our gracious river, The soul of the mountains, stanch and free, The soul of the Indian, “ Lake of the Spirit,” And the infinite soul of the shining sea. One hath its birth by the granite mountain, Where a mighty face looks out alone, Across the world and adown the ages, Like the face of the Christ in the living stone. One flows from the water of Winnipesaukee, Bearing ever where it may glide, As the Indians named that beautiful water, “ The smile of tire Spirit” upon its tide. And the soul of the sea is at Little Harbor, Or Strawberry Bank of the olden time, Where first DeMonts and his dreaming voyageurs Sailed in quest of a golden clime. ' Tis said that Power is the soul of our river, Plunging down from the gulfs and glooms Of its mountain valleys to fall in splendor, Or drive the belts of the myriad looms. To some the soul of the stream is Beauty. That pours from its beautiful lake above In silver ripples and golden eddies, Like the seer’s stream from the throne of love. 97 ... • ’ • • - ■ . : r e. • !.' f •- ' v i • . - ,W-j -.5^ r .:* vuf', sctj • fell-* t-ad» . • : ' : . ' AT THE FALLS OF NAMOSKEAG 99 And once, to this stream with its double burden, There came a soul akin to his own ; The heart of the river was in his preaching ; The voice of the ripples was in his tone ; And he stood by the falls in the golden weather, Under the elm leaves, mirrored brown In the pictured waters, and told his hearers How the Heart of the stars and the stream came down, As a little child to its mother’s bosom, With a wonder at hatred in his eyes, And an image of peace from the one Great Spirit Like the light in the stream from the glowing skies. And e’en while he spake, as the stream in its flowing Takes tints of the twilight and jeweled gleams Of the oak and maple, on Eliot’s spirit Lay heavenly visions and starry dreams, And with only the chant of the falls in the silence, While the nets and the spears uncared for lay, Again as of old the Christ was standing By the lodges of Passaconaway. • * * * An hundred times had the glistening salmon Flashed in the falls since that sunset hour; An hundred times had the black ducks flying Followed the stream ; and the Spirit of Power That sleeps in the river, still waited to welcome A heart like its own to reveal again, As Eliot uttered its beautiful spirit, Its soul of power to the souls of men. The wands of the willow are deeper amber, The coral buds of the maple bloom ; The alders redden, the wind flowers blossom, And sunshine follows the winter’s gloom. ;*»0C- iM ni -i Vt. la ®oio .KT ■' •" ■' -v ■ ■ - . - ... . • . io n ii ; I .‘•:W (?rn. «' •• MJi. -• . jif : '^3 i ' ' "Tlr - ' - . . . | '* ’ ,0 * "■ »' • fc . jg I- .. ?. . . bn/, » »h> ,- f has rfno vr.*vj3 blur fr i»f • - ' . .5 ’ , 9 : *tu ■ ; , ' . t, f , ■* /•. 8 r ^ *• mil j .4 ni t9qty)b ais woilrr/ ■-> e«c fi jrfT ac^ e't»Jur/r • /; oil* . , anh'euu! . t\ £ ¥ AMOSKEAG FALLS IN WINTER AT THE FALLS OF NAMOSKEAG 101 The smile of the spirit is still on the waters, The chime on the stones of the Namoskeag fall, But the soul of the hills as it leaps to the ocean To freedom and valor seems to call. At the door of his mill, by the swirl of the rapids, Feeling the spirit that subtly thrills, From the spray of the falls like an exhalation, Is resting our hero of the hills. He had won the name when he ran the gantlet, Bursting the Indian lines in twain, Or made his foray to save his comrades Through the frozen forests of far Champlain. Now the swish of the saw and the creak of the timber, And the swirl of the rapids alone he heard, When sudden — a clatter of hoofs down the river — A horseman, a shout, and the rallying’word Of yesterday’s fighting by Concord river, Of the blood on the green of Lexington — That was all! yet the mill gate fell, and the miller, Left the saw to rust in the cut, and was Jgone, ’Twas the word of" the Lord through the Merrimack valley, From Derryfield down to Pawtucket’s fall, That rang from his lips, to rise and to follow, As the leader thundered his rallying’call. ’ Twas the sword of the Lord from the leader’s scabbard That flashed in defiance of British wrong, As the rallying farmers galloped after Riding to Medford a thousand strong. * * * A golden cycle of years has vanished Since the Derryfield minute-man left his mill To lead the patriots down the valley To “the old rail fence” on Bunker Hill. / ‘ > H'.i*. _• • • •' 1 . - ■ ■ ■ ■ .■ ilLso • ;• .. / t - *.- >i • ' . : ■ ■ '■* . .Jo;*.,. fil r .* ' V > ‘ ■ •■•••• ' ' ’ .xi- ’ " : •• ••• • • . .... >. , ■ - ••• * : »» . - - ■ ‘ : • ■ AT THE FALLS OF NAMOSKEAG 103 The years flow on and sweep in their flowing Legend and life to the infinite sea — A city stands by the grave of the hero, Where the lodges and camps were wont to be. Unchanged and changeless flows the river, But blended now with its ceaseless chime Is the rhythmic beating of mighty hammers, And a hum like the bees in summer time. But the hum of the looms and the clank of the hammers, Will hush to the chime of the Sabbath bells, While the soul of the stream from the Lake of the Spirit The story of Eliot’s Master tells. The years flow on like the flowing river, With peaceful eddies and daring falls But if ever the life of the state is perilled, If duty summons or country calls, The soul of the hills and the stream will waken As it woke in the ancient minute-men, And the hearts of the sons like the hearts of the fathers Will bleed for their country’s life again. 0/ V '-Oi.'-A . r TA y '.-.u . ■> >rii ' • r.t - • .orarf aril » d : ■ da! vvf -Aitu. ytn A ■ - • ' r or. £ I - Jd . <1 .amiJ lamrnns i- xl drfl dii( nuid & In A fflisd aril !■? . :J i r»i5 «:i oi cdl lo mud sril iud ,aifed rf. dc> r : - dl lo alii a;!? -rflsl sdi lo alTBari oil? - . -rii lo 3l~.~orf or J brtA .ad 0? i«o\ new e^n ? bos eagbol edi siariV/ , Carl}> ©ietos of Cotons Photo by Fred K. Hazen AMOSKEAG FALLS Sflong tfje JPemmacfe Jfrom ? • • ' • • : . ■ • iV> v? I : ii // ,i . j- - . - * i. *'fr ytf !*. S. ./* Jri^ncI iii’ti'. f.i. i t. -i.i 1 i . a i * isnr*iiri e? ri^trf . i * V *' 1 ! j v y r, T • - -'i I ./ ujsj * ,0 ‘ id “."'J ■ »; ••••<'■ > , l - .. r ' • ’ . . ; : .•jn-yiiir - . erii •' -v ,rv-. - -lobiod . f ,nA ' . . •• ■’s : : -ur , . i ...li/I i'Ji — 1-’ • • J i) ;* : ! * ■ • jii'T i! nul.- ; tjffjf i'o ) or i , r I. 1.: 1 - 'i : r-r>i ' if w nil ’ SUNSET ON MOUNT WASHINGTON A crumbling castle 'cross the shadowy lands Against the sky now silhouetted stands; A bar of bronze and silver at its door Now falls the wan day’s purple threshold o'er. Sigh, south wind, sigh! ay, set the wild news flying: “The reign of day is o'er — its king is dying!” The dusky legions leap o’er castled wall, O'er ramparts frowning high, o’er sky, and all; The long light from thy hoary summit flees Like spirit hosts across the forest seas. Shriek, north wind, shriek! ay, set the wild news flying: “The king is dying!” echo answers “dying!” The twilight hangs a curtain day and night Between. Afar and near the stars in might Begin their watch7 while Venus sets on high Her home-light in the window of the sky. Swift- winged winds abroad the news have spread: “The day is done — its king is dying — dead!” VipTOXiH-. V.7 T^-UOr-; 7:0 T. 'r /. - : < . T « r ?i\ li ■ ■/ L ■ 1 : ^ / • it.'o -i • > • ' 1 -sg PART TWO its- Sntuan ^Trabttionsi anb JfolMore Cfte OaniSfjeb HaceS “Like leaves on trees the race of man is found; Now green in youth, now withering on the ground; Another race the following spring supplies; They fall successive and successive rise; So generations in their course decay; So flourish these when those are passed away,” CCORDING to the traditions of the Amerinds, two TT 1 great families of their people, the Lenni Lenape, which term meant the “original people,” and the Mengwe or Maqua came from the extreme west to settle in the fertile valley of the Mississippi, “The Father of Waters.” The first-named tribe was soon met in deadly fight by the Alligewi or Allegheny warriors, who made such a resistance that they formed an alliance with the Mengwe to destroy their common enemies. Under the conditions of this league the Mengwes took the country bordering on the great lakes, reaching from Erie to Cham- plain, and northward to the highlands of the Ottawa and the valley of the St. Lawrence. In their onward march the Mengwes overcame or united with them in their con- quests, the Oneidas, Onodagas , Cayugas , and Seneca , later on accepting as an ally the Tuscaroas , who had come up from southland to unite with them. At first known as “The Five Nations,” this league became designated as “The Six Nations,” or in an ethological sense as the Iroquois. If crude in its form, and the different factions forming the league were frequently at war with each other, it was the first semblance of government in this country ? unless it were some race whose civilization has been buried under the ruins of centuries. They were undoubtedly the most crafty, daring and intelligent of the North Amer- Copyrighted, George W. Browne, 1908. 10 INDIAN TRADITIONS AND FOLKLORE ican races. Either separately or together they were the terror of all other families of Amerinds. The five tribes of this clan were stationed in palisaded villages surrounded by great fields of cultivated crops and orchards, extending in a line from the south and east of Erie and Ontario lakes, from which peculiar situation came their name “The People of the Long House.” They have been estimated to number from 15,000 to 20,000, and at no time to be able to muster more than 3,000 warriors. Pitted against the Iroquois, though allied by kindred ties, were the Hurons , numbering about 16,000. They dwelt mainly in large settlements situated in a narrow dis- trict comprising a portion of the water-shed of the north- west, between the little chain of lakes running south from Georgian Bay nearly down to lake Ontario, and westward to the lake bearing their name. The Hurons were what might be termed an agricultural people, though they made periodical hunting and fishing trips. They lived in bark cabins, arranged in groups and surrounded by high pali- sades, built to protect themselves from their enemies. Their crops were corn, beans, pumpkins and tobacco. They were sharp traders, and better fighters than the east- ern tribes I am soon to mention, but the Iroquois gradually drove them northward and eastward, down the valley of the St. Lawrence, or “Great River of Canada.” Upon the site of Montreal they founded their ancient capital, Hoch- elega, to be eventually driven from this by their long-time enemies. Separated from the Hurons by a wide stretch of unbroken forest on the southwest were the Petuns , Tion- atates , or “Tobacco Nation,” noted for their large fields of this plant, which they ever found in ready demand from other less thrifty tribes. To the west of Lake Ontario, dwelling on both sides of the gorge of Niagara, lived a more peaceful tribe than any of these, who on account of their ability to remain on friendly terms with the warlike factions were known as “The Neutral Nation.” THE VANISHED RACES 11 The French first came in contact with the Hurons, who, as early as Champlain, were induced to become their allies. Even that astute explorer and civilizer of the Can- adian wilds believed their friendship of greater moment to his cause than any other, and upon the shore of the lake named in his honor, opened hostilities with the Mengwes, then known as the Mohawks, the leading as well as the oldest of the Five Nations. This attack awakened a deadly enmity, which did not expire with one generation but existed for a hundred years, a heritage of hatred. It was broken only by the iron heel of Frontenac, and then not until new France had become so weakened as to fall an easy victim to her old-time white enemy, the English. In the meantime the Iroquois had left their imprints upon every group of Amerinds from the region of the Alleghany, the shores of the great lakes, the rock of Quebec to the valleys of the Merrimack and the Saco rivers. Thus they figure conspicuously in the legends and traditions of the red men of the Granite State. It does not come within the province of our purpose to more than mention the other great clans of Amerinds occupying this country before the coming of the white man, who was to destroy that civilization already becoming apparent, under the slow process of evolution, and rear upon its ruins a form which itself had merged from the crushing weight of barbarism. There were the Gherokees , Chickasaws, Choctaws, Creeks and Seminoles , all natives of a warmer clime, and therefore of a milder temperament, it of a less energetic disposition. They, estimated to num- ber about 50,000, fell in more easily with the agricultural pur- suits of their conquerors, though rapidly fading away like the leaves of a forest. Beyond the Mississippi, with the Rocky Mountains as their bounds on the west, dwelt the fourth of the four great families, the Dacotas or Sioux, the most bitter haters of the white missionaries, hunters, traders, home-builders, and nowhere is to be found a stronger, more heroic or pathetic narrative of colonization and civilization. 12 INDIAN TRADITIONS AND FOLKLORE The Lenni Lenape, or Delawares, chose the country to the south of that taken by their ally, a territory border- ing on the rivers Potomac, Delaware, Susquehanna and Mohawk, the latter called by them Mahicannituck , from whence came a new name for them, Mohican , pronounced by the English Mohegan. Pushing gradually eastward, they eventually spread over New England, forming in reality the most numerous and widely extended of all the native confederations, known to the English under the general term of Algonkin. Taken singly and together, these branches of red men occupy a larger place in our early history than all others. This was due largely to the fact that they were the first to combat their prospective conquerors, and this before the fire and ardor of their primitive life had been sapped by contact with civilization- These people, according to Heckewelder, were in possession of the Atlantic coast from Roanoke to Acadia. Their tongue and that of the Hurons embraced the language spoken over sixteen hundred leagues of country and was understood by all others except the Iroquois. It was, too, a more fluent tongue, the Mokaws being desti- tute of labials, while that of the Mohegans abounded with them. 1 Whatever may have been the origin of the race inhab- iting North America at the time of the arrival of the Europeans, and however antiquarians may differ in that respect, there is evidence to show that the Amerinds pre- sented varying types of humanity. The difficulty to estab- lish the boundaries between these tribes has led some to believe they sprang from a common parentage. This con- dition is due to the frequent migrations of different tribes, to intermarriage and the utter lack of any boundary lines. While the term “Mohegan” was in a general sense applied to the “original people” of New England, at the time of the coming of the whites, they possessed distin- guishing attributes in the several sections, so that Gookin makes five principal nations: The Pequots , Marragansetts , Pawkunaykutts , Massachusetts, and Pawtukets. THE CHIEF’S VISION— MANIFEST DESTINY THE VANISHED RACES The five confederations above named comprised at least twenty-six families, described in alphabetical order as follows: INDIAN TRIBES OF NEW ENGLAND Abnakis , a name applied to the Indians living between the Pascataqua and Penobscot rivers, and divided into four principal families. Agawams , a small clan living about Ipswich, Mass. AnnasagunticooJcs , found upon the Androscoggin. Canibas , a numerous tribe living upon the Saghadoc, now Kennebec, River. Micmacs , occupying Nova Scotia, sometimes called by early writers the Souriquos , or Souriquois. Mohegans , or Mohicians , that lived in the country of Windham, Conn., and territory lying to the north nearly to the state line. They numbered about 3,000, and their great chief at one time, was Uncas. The Pequods lived on their south, the Woguns and Podunks on their west, Nip- muncks on the north, and Narragansetts on the east. (See Hubbard’s New England, pages 33, 255, 408.) Massachusetts occupied Suffolk, Norfolk, the easterly part of Middlesex and the northerly part of Essex counties. They were numerous atone period, but seem to have suf- fered greatly from the plague in 1617. Their most noted chief was Nanepashemet, whose abode was near the mouth of the Mystic River. Marechites , or Armouchiquois , lived along the river St. John. Nashuas and JVipnets , or Nipmucks , lived within the the county of Worcester and about the ponds of Orford township. (Hubbard’s Indian Wars, page 257.) The Nip- mucks were subject to the Mohegans. Narragansetts occupied nearly all of what is now the state of Massachusetts. At the time of the coming of the Pilgrims at Plymouth, they could muster 5,000 fighting men, had a population of 20,000, and were superior in num- 14 INDIAN TRADITIONS AND FOLKLORE bers and strength to any other tribe in New England, except the Pequods. (See Prince, page 46.) JVaticks lived about what is now Dedham, Mass. These were converted and were known as “the praying Indians.” In 1651 they organized into a form of govern- ment, with rulers over lots of fifties and tens. They sev- eral times allied themselves with the English in the eastern wars. (Hubbard’s New England, pages 652-3.) Nausites dwelt to the south of Plymouth. The enmity of this tribe was incurred through the kidnapping of seven of their numbers by Hunt. (Prince, pages 99-100) N’ehanticks lived along the east bank of the Connecti- cut River, on the site of the town of Lyme. Their famous chief was Ninegret, who fought the Wampanoags and the Mohawks in the conquest of the Long Island Indians. (Holmes’ American Annotations, page 2 77.) Newichawannocks , on the upper branches of the Pascataqua. Oponangos , supposed to have lived about Passama- quoddy Bay. Pequods , claimed the country between the Narragan- setts and Nehanticks. Their central station and villages along the coast at New London harbor. They outrivalled all the other tribes of New England until they were destroyed in 1638 by the English. Pewkenawkutts , or Wampanoags , also numerous and powerful, occupied all the western and southern parts of the Plymouth colony. Their sachem lived at Mount Hope. Massasoit was the first chief of which the English had knowledge. His successors were his sons Alexander and the famous Philip, the most noted warrior of his age. Massasoit was able to muster 3,000 warriors. Pentuckets , or Abernenians , lived along the Merrimack River, with their capital at Dracut. This tribe at one time contained 3,000 in numbers. Pennacooks lived along the Merrimack River between the Nashua and the Pennacook rivers, and numbered about THE VANISHED RACES 15 3,000. Their most noted sachem was Passaconaway. This tribe was quite friendly to the English through the advice and influence of the chief mentioned, (i Collection Massachusetts Historical Society, page 180.) Podunks , inhabitants of the region now included in Hartford, Conn. (Morse’s Geography, page 346.) Seconnets , situated at Little Compton, above Pocasset or Tivertown A noted leader was a woman known as the “Squaw Sachem,” who was a relative of Philip, and this tribe generally allied themselves with the Wampanoags. (Prince, page 129. Hubbard’s Indian Wars, pages 258-9.) JSokokis, who dwelt along the River Saco and adjacent country. larratines , inhabitants of the Penobscot, and were one of the three Etechemins Tribes. Wavenocks lived about Pemaquid and St. George rivers in Maine, between the Kennebec and Penobscot rivers. Wonguns , who lived east of the Pequods in Connecti- cut, where are now the towns of East Chatham and Haddam. Four tongues, or dialects, seem to have been spoken by these various families and tribes, as follows: That spoken by the Pawktlnawkutts and the natives west of them, which is supposed to have been the language of the Mohegans. Then the tribes between them and the Newichawannocks on the Pascataqua, which have been called “Abergineans,” or Northern Indians, could all con- verse together, though they could not sound well the 1 and r, giving the sound of n instead. The Indians east of the Pascataqua, however, sounded these letters easily and belonged to a different tribe. These families were also dis- tinct from the Micmacs of Nova Scotia. Captain Francis, the first captain of the Tarratine tribe on the Penobscot, an intelligent Indian, told Williamson, author of the His- tory of Maine (Vol. I., page 460): 16 INDIAN TRADITIONS AND FOLKLORE “All the tribes between the Saco and the Rivers St. John were brothers. The eldest, the Sokokis, lived on the Saco; each tribe, going eastward, was the younger, like the sons of the same father, excepting those on the Passa- maquoddy, the youngest of all. I can understand them all when they speak, as like brothers, but when the Micmacs or Algonkin or Canada Indians talk, I cannot understand what they say.” These tribes of Maine appeared to be at war with the tribes in New Hampshire. For this reason largely the chiefs of the latter tribes were encouraged to ally them- selves with the English in order to cope more successfully with their life-long enemies to the east. INDIANS OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. P'our tribes, as previously mentioned, the Nashuas, Penacooks (Pentuckets), Newichawannocks, the Squam- scots a small inland family at what is now Exeter, N. H., formed a sort of confederacy. In 1629-30, the Pentuckets, in Massachusetts, were more numerous than the Penacooks, The lodgment of the Newichannocks was at Cocheco, now Dover. Knolles, or Rowles, was for many years their sachem, and his dwelling-place was not far from Quam- peagan Falls, in what is now Berwick, and which was then Kittery. All the Indians in that vicinity were under him, though he was under Passaconaway. He died about 1670^ not far from the death of the former, and his dying mes- sage to his followers was somewhat similar: “Being loaded with years, I had expected a visit in my infirmities, especially from those who are now tenants on the lands of my fathers. Though all these plantations are of right my children’s; I am forced in this age of evil 5 humbly to request a few hundred acres of land to be marked out for them and recorded, as a public act, in the town books; so that when I am gone, they may not be per- ishing beggars, in the pleasant places of their birth. For I know a great war will shortly break out between the THE VANISHED RACES IT white men and the Indians, over the whole country. At first the Indians will kill many and prevail; but after three years, they will be great sufferers and finally be rooted out and destroyed.” His successor was Blind Will, his son; and that of Passaconaway, Wonalancet, his son. Historian Potter gives the following tribes as ruled in greater or less degree by the Penacooks: Agawams, Massa- chusetts, Wamesits, Nashuas, Souhegans, Namoskeag, Winnepesuakees. Besides these the succeeding tribes acknowleged fealty to the Penacook though not belonging to the confederacy: Wachusets, Winnecowetts, Coosucks, Pascataquakes, Pequakuakes, Sacos, Ossipees, Newiche- wannocks, Squamscotts, Amariscoggins. Northern New Hampshire did not seem to have any particular tribe settled within its territory, but it was over- run periodically by the Canadian Indians, among which predominated the Hurons, judged by the traces they left in the traditions handed down from those days. Further glimpses of these families, as well as of the others in our state, will appear from time to time, in the following tradi- tions, which really afford the only accounts we have of the vanished races. ^ The ruling passions of the aborigine were war and free- dom. If in peace he was slothful and indolent, the war- whoop transformed him into another being. Like all uneducated people he then became a strange compound of good and evil. Lescarbet, in his Narrative written in 1609, told a truth that later writers have not refuted: “If they (the Indians) do not know God, at least they do not blaspheme him, as the greater number of Christians do. Nor do they understand the art of poisoning, or of corrupting chastity by devilish artifice. There are no poor nor beggars among them. All are rich, because all labor and live.” His stealthy step, that did not stir a stick on the ground; his swift vision, that did not fail to detect the [8 INDIAN TRADITIONS AND FOLKLORE least commotion of the solitude; the hundred silent signs that his white companion could not discern, watching the wind and the shadows, the sun and the clouds, the mist upon the waters, the damp upon the earth. All these were qualities his pale-hued rivals could not imitate. A shadow himself, the Amerind believed all alike passed to Spirit Land, where they continued the pursuits begun here. “It was in truth a Land of Shades, where trees, flowers, animals, men, and all things were spirits. “ By midnight moons, o’er moistening dews, In vestments for the chase arrayed, The hunter still the deer pursues. The hunter and the deer a shade. ” Like a child, he had a mind remarkably acute in one direction, while undeveloped in others. He could grasp but one truth, and that without any great abstract reason- ing. He understood woodcraft in many of its artifices, could build a canoe with skill, make a bow and arrow, was singularly adept in constructing his rude tepee, but he never learned to build a house, could not even wield an ax with any cunning, or acquire any great tact in the arts of civilized life. In short, he was not an imitator. But he had two virtues: one, a high sense of honor! the other, a fortitude the most keen suffering could not shake. Expression of pain or pleasure, of sorrow or happi- ness was left for weak women to indulge in. But his mani- festation of rejoicing over a victory won was followed by wild bursts of revelry, or a battle lost was succeeded by bitter wailing and lametation. The Amerind was a natural story-teller. Seeing, as he did, an omen in every shifting shade of the clouds, a sign in the changing leaf, a token of beauty or ugliness in the different places of the wildwood, and no rock or river, lake or mountain, valley or hillside, that did not speak of some deed of valor, incident of love or hatred; these stories clung to his tongue and were told and retold to each sue- THE VANISHED RACES 19 ceeding generation, from time immemorial. They were further kept alive by a name applied to the spot which should always hint of the legend connected with it. Thus the “laughing water” of Minnehaha forever reminds the beholder of the tragedy of love enacted in the sparkling waterfall. The Indians told their tales of bygone days with lowered voice and anxious mien, each myth fraught with the fantasy of nature’s solitude and each legend bordered with a fringe of the silver foam of superstition. “Speak softly,” warned the dusky boatman to the Jesuit Father Albanel, as he plied the paddles of the canoe under the frowning point of the mountain, of Mistassini Lake, “or the spirit of the peak will be angry with us, send his storm gods to outride our canoe, and drown us all.” “Close your eyes as we pass under yonder rock,” said the Ottawa, as he and his companions guided their canoe down the river, where it made a sharp bend around a sharp angle of rock, to the early whites who penetrated that region, “or you will see the demon who guards the rock, and to look on him is certain death.” “Move swiftly past yon island,” advised the Hurons to Menard, as he was crossing Lake Superior, “nor dare to land on its enchanted shore. See! it moves; now it is near; now it is far away. Now it van- ishes, and we must pass the place before it rises again.” Above island, Michipicaten. “Pass not after nightfall, Tawasendeatha,” whispered the Sokokis chieftain, “lest you disturb the slumbers of the sleeping dead.” In a lighter spirit Father Rasle was besought by his Abnaki neophytes to listen at nightfall, as they passed a certain pine, for the song of the lovers, parted and united by death, as they swept past to seek their old trysting place. 'Cfje Snbian punter By Eliza Cook This poem, given in the school readers of a generation ago, and set to music and sung by Henry Russell on his concert tours, is an old-time favorite. — Editor. Oh, why does the white man follow my path, Like the hound on the tiger’s track? Does the flush on my dark cheek waken his wrath? Does he covet the bow at my back? He has rivers and seas, where the billows and breeze Bear riches for him alone, And the sons of the wood never plunge in the flood Which the white man calls his own. Then why should he come to streams where none But the redskin dares to swim? And why should he wrong the bold hunter one Who never did harm to him? The Father above thought fit to give To the white man com and wine, There are golden fields where he may live, But the forest shades are mine. For the eagle and deer have their place of rest, The wild horse where to dwell, And the spirit that gave to the bird its nest, Made a home for me as well. Then back to thy home from the red man’s track, For the hunter’s eye grows dim, To find that the white man wrongs the one Who never did harm to him. 20 TIIK LAST OF HIS RACK II Cfje 2?ritie of tfjc l©fnte Canoe A Legend of Amoskeag Falls > %f^OU may never have heard this legend of the Bride 3PJ of the White Canoe; it may never have been told. In the storied past it lingers, and somewhere and sometime it will be told as I tell it. The imagery of the snow- white bark and its dusky occupants, pictured in the midst of the waterfall as if the real objects had been caught by some mysterious power and held there in defiance of natural law, is not to be seen now. Peradventure, it vanished with the appearance of that new light which dispelled the brightness of the old. Darker shadows have fled from our forests and rivers witbrthe hosts of yesterday, and the old settler, gray with the gloom of the wilderness, assured me that he had seen it. With the silver of the harvest moon shimmering upon the transparent waters, he had seen and wondered if some fairy yet lived amid these scenes, if some daring canoeist of the race that had vanished had risked his life in a wild ride over the brink and been punished for his folly by being caught upon the rocks, or was it — a noiseless step by his side brought to him a brown-hued tale-bearer, who, as the daylight deepened into twilight and the vision disappeared, told him this story of the long ago: It was when Cyclonac was the great sachem of the Penacooks. Then their sun shone with noonday bright- ness. The pines on the hills overlooking the long window 21 22 INDIAN TRADITIONS AND FOLKLORE of Broken Waters* were not thicker than their wigwam s on the bluffs of Namaske. Then their warriors defied the sons of the West; their hunters never returned from the chase empty-handed. Their burnt clearings reached far and wide, and their women tilled great patches of maize and melons. No feasts were as bountiful as theirs. There was no prophet as renowned as Cyclonac; no princess as fair as Winneona of the White Canoe. If the dark corners of the forest had their charms, so did the open heart of Kakaashadi call to the hunter and the warrior when their day’s wild work was over. In the dusky twilight they came to spear the fish that sported so abundantly for them in the foam-fringed flood. Grown weary of the common place, they would set afloat their fire-raft on an autumn night, that the piercing rays of their hundred torches might burn bright pathways into the hid- den caverns of the forest to lure from their sleep into the range of their bows the wondering denizens of the wild- wood. Or it might be under the moonlight the restless pines, flinging their thousand fingers out over the dreamy waters, beckoned them forth for one of those canoe races for which they were noted as far as their wampums had been carried, east and west, north and south. Should the evening be fair and ’twere whispered that Winneona, the Maid of the White Canoe, was to mingle in the pastime, then the water would be dotted with canoe-men and the bank thronged with spectators. Bind the grace of the lily to the sweetness of the rose; the brightness of the evening star to the softness of the southern breeze whispering its secrets to the poplar, and you have found the sources of the many charms of Winne- ona. A maid so fair and gentle should have many lovers, and Winneona had hers. One by one she gave them the answer that leaves the heart a fugitive of hope, until it ♦Indian name for the Merrimack, expressed in their tongue by the word Kaskaashadi. — Author. THE BRIDE OF THE WHITE CANOE 23 came to choosing between Kohass the Pine and Aurayet the Sunbright. Dark as the pine for which he was named, Kohass was known as a brave hunter, whose nimble foot had climbed the Great Hill,* and he had hurled, empty-handed, from the brow of Annabesetf the big, brown bear that had killed six warriors in one foray, and he boasted of having defied the bitter tempest which over- powered three stout braves in a single night. Aurayet was like a ray of sunshine, and there was no day so dark that he could not see the sunshine, no storm so biting that he felt the arrow of selfishness piercing his heart. He had fought alone the big war party of Mohawks under Unca- noonucs’ shadows, coming out of the fray with glory enough for one warrior. If Winneona felt any choice between these-lovers, she did not own it, On dark days, when the flowers closed their bright faces and the sun hid its brightness, she must have felt the warm passion of her light-hearted suitor. But when the sunshiny days displayed with happy effect the darker traits of Kohass, then she admired if she did not love him. At other times she feared him, so Kohass was ever with her in spirit. Fear and love are often kin. So I think she loved Aurayet and feared Kohass. It was this fear which made her slow in giving her reply to this twain. In this not uncommon situation for a maid, she chose upon a plan which should decide their fate and hers. She would become the bride of him who could outmatch the fleetness of her canoe. Many times had she flown like a wildbird over the playground of the Merrimack, flinging back to her lovers merry taunts of victory over them. It is true Aurayet had once sent back the laugh against her, but this fact did not lessen her hopes or check her from giving forth her bold challenge. ’Twere no serious fear to defy such a daring lover. ♦Probably Kearsarge Mountain. — Author . tThe bluff overlooking the falls at Hooksett. — Author. 24 INDIAN TRADITIONS AND FOLKLORE So the message went abroad, and merry excitement ran over the lodgment. ’Twere seldom if ever such a challenge had been given, and not only did Kohass and Aurayet hasten to accept the challenge, but others asked and gained permission to join in the race for so fair a prize. So five were added to the twain mentioned. The trial was to take place upon the favorite race track of the Merrimack, above the thundering falls, and the time selected was the harvest moon, then near at hand. And, while the rivals began to prepare for the great ordeal, the women of the tribe began to get in readiness the feast that was to follow the race and the marriage. Hunters began to search the game lands for the best they could offer. From the forest were brought long trains of ever- green and the frost flowers of the river bank with which to deck the bridal train and the rich viands of the festival. Ay, little can you penetrate the meaning of this canoe race. It promised to overleap all other trials of the kind, and there had been many in the moons gone away. Once rival chiefs had raced for life and death and, what was dearer, honor, the vanquished yielding himself up, without a murmur, to the victor. Once a Mohawk brave rowed here against Nolka, the Penacook giant, with the promise of his freedom if he overcame him. Never did Nolka of the “Magic Paddle” fly over the water as he did on that day. He won, too. But it was only because at the last moment the paddle in the hand of the Mohawk snapped like poorly seasoned wood. Then Nolka showed that the bravest are the most generous, for he plead so earnestly for the brave from the West that the other was spared his life. So upon the eve of the harvest moon, while the mis- tress of light climbed in silence the pathless hills of the sky, old and young gathered upon the bank of Kaskaas- hadi to witness the coming canoe race, until such a crowd had never been seen upon the river side. As the time drew near for the race to begin, one after another of the THE BRIDE OF THE WHITE CANOE THE BRIDE OF THE WHITE CANOE 25 rival lovers took his position. Then Kohass was seen to sweep his canoe into the center of the water-way, he alone looking confident of victory. Well he might, for he alone of all those present knew that Aurayet, the most dreaded rival, lay among the alders and willows of Anna- beset, silent and motionless. Scarcely two hours since had he tracked him down and sent the arrow that had laid him low. Arrows are silent messengers, but their messages are winged with death. Having no thought of this, Winneona, as the time drew near for the opening of the race, glided into position, casting anxious glances hither and thither as she looked in vain for Aurayet. She was to have a path down the center, with those who were to race with her ranged on either side according to the plan of the one in charge of the trial. Kohass came nearest upon her left, while a track had been left for Aurayet upon her right. Only he was lacking to make the arrangements complete. And nowall began to wonder why he came not. The moon had no waiting spell for tardy lovers. If they came or went she sped her starry flight, making brighter and brighter the pathway of the rival canoeists. All save Winneona were impatient to start. But she, looking more beautiful than ever it seemed, sitting like a princess in her snow-white canoe, made of the summer bark of the birch, and as transparent as the moonbeams. She fain would have had the race postponed until he should come or word of him be told. But the great chief, bribed no doubt by Kohass, said he had had time to come, and unless he did at the moment set he must be counted out of the race. Cast- ing a furtive glance toward her dark lover, Winneona saw a wicked smile lurking about his mouth. Then the boastful warrior whispered across the water: “Winneona to-night becomes the bride of Kohass.” Before she could reply, if she would, the great chief raised over his head the dry pine stick whose breaking was to be the signal for the canoeists to start. Then the sharp *26 iNDiAtf traditions aMd folklore crack of the breaking wood had not fairly rung on the still air when six canoes shot forward like arrows from well- strung bows. Kohass led the way. Winneona hesitated, as if loath to start without Aurayet there with a chance to win. The cry which began with the spectators suddenly ceased when it was seen that she was likely to forfeit the race. At that moment, too, though only a few heard the message, Arrowleaf, the Fleet-Footed, appeared upon the scene with the startling word that Aurayet, the Sunbright, had been slain as the wolf falls. This awoke a yell of horror. Possibly mistaking the meaning of this outburst for one of derision at her failure to do her part, Winneona was brought back to a realization of her situation. Should she allow Kohass to win the race without an effort on her part, it would be done to her life-long shame. Like a flash of light her white canoe shot over the moon-tinted waters. In the twinkling of a star, it seemed, half of the rival canoeists were overtaken and were swiftly left behind. The bank of the Merrimack rang with the wild cheer- ing of the onlookers. Every eye was now fixed upon that noble race — the grandest Penacook had ever looked upon. Never did the moon gaze down upon so fair a picture of life and endeavor. Other waters may have mirrored her image with clearer beauty lines of silver and gold; other forests may have thrown darker shadows across her path- way; but never had she looked upon such a vision of light and shade mingled; of human effort to win heart and honor. The brown deer, slaking his thirst by the river- side, beheld the canoeists with awe, and while he watched and waited forgot his thirst. The prowling wolf, looking down from the distant crag, checked his howl of rage and looked on in silence. The vast throng of people watching and fearing, gazed upon the beautiful sight spellbound. If Aurayet had failed to keep his pledge, it only made Winneona more earnest to win. Kohass’ evil smile had THE BRIDE OF THE WHITE CANOE 2 ? kindled the fear of her heart into hatred. Sooner than keep his wigwam would she become the death-bride of Namaske. With this stern thought in her mind she gave all her skill, all her strength, all her will, to winning the race. Her white canoe flew over the water like a wild bird, the paddles, lighter than feathers in her hands, lend- ing it wings. Now the first, then the second, the third, fourth, fifth of the champions were passed, and only Kohass, the Pine led, fighting the great battle of his life, throwing all of the skill of his hands, energy of his arms and ambition of his heart into this grand struggle with the Maid of the White Canoe. Side by side the twain, maid and warrior, sped down the moonlit way. Soon it was seen by the anxious watchers that Winne- ona was beginning to gain upon her rival. The difference was yet slight — so slight that the onlookers dared not cheer. In the midst of the great silence, which hung like invisible curtains over the scene, Winneona gained a hand’s span upon her dark rival. The onlookers saw this with wild joy, and their delight was beginning to find expression in shouts of gladness, when suddenly the entire aspect of the race was changed. Sweeping down the course like the white-winged winds of winter, a canoeist sped upon the pathway of the fleeing maid and warrior. The throng of people on the river bank saw him, and the murmur of joy upon their lips changed to a wild outburst of wonder and exultation, — a thunderous applause that rang above the roar of old Namaske, a prolonged cry that was heard that night a deer flight away. Never, it is said, not even when Connepokum won his matchless victory over the Tarra- tines did the river and forest ring with such cries. They were so mighty and overpowering that the canoeists glanced back to see what was meant. Winneona saw with pulsing heart Aurayet coming swiftly upon her path and a wild feeling of gladness came into her soul. 28 INDIAN TRADITIONS AND FOLKLORE Kohass saw the rival lover that he had slain sitting erect in his boat, his hands grasping his strong paddle without dipping or raising it, while he was carried on by some strange power with the fleet ness of the wind. Know- ing that it was the spirit of Aurayet that had joined in the race, he uttered a cry of terror and toppled back into the water, leaving his canoe to be caught a moment later in the gathering eddys of the waterfall. If Winneona saw the sudden fate of Kohass no one knew. She was seen to hesitate for a moment in her earnest work, though the thunder of the falls was begin- ning to ring in her ears. And then, while all the others looked on with wonder rising to horror, the phantom canoeist glided alongside of the white canoe with its amazed occupant; he reached out an arm and lifted her into his canoe. And, holding her close-locked in his embrace, they were borne on toward the brink of the broken waters. The warning cry the onlookers would fain have uttered froze upon their lips. Speechless, motionless, helpless to save them, they saw the twain carried nearer and nearer the brink until they disappeared in the mist and foam of the raging waters. And as this startling action was going on the notes of a war-song rose above the thunder of the river — the paean so often sung in the hey- day of his victories by Aurayet the Dauntless. So the wedding feast was never touched, and with anxious forebodings the Penacooks waited until daylight that they might look for the mangled bodies of the lovers. These were never found, and it was known that Winneona had gone to spiritland to live evermore with her faithful Aurayet. It was said in after years that, with the harvest moon shining clear in the sky, upon that particular hour of of night, the outlines of the falling canoe and its passen- gers, as they shot over the brink, could be seen pictured in the swinging spray of the falling waters. That is all that has been told of the Bride of the White Canoe. HOW OF THE RIVEN OAK ^fje <©ncf)anteb 25oto A Legend of the Suncook “Beneath this giant oak, Where oft the dusky wooer met his love.’ w HERE now the stubborn plowshare finds its way along the sloping side of one of our fair hills, not many arrows’ flight from the valley of the Suncook, stood a mighty oak in days gone by, in the pride and the glory of its ancient years. Many a strange tale could this wildwood monarch have unfolded to the paleface sons when they came, had they known its language and listened to its many tongues. But they passed it unheeded by and its secrets remained locked in its leafy bosom, save for those confessions which, from time to time, it had whis- pered to the maple and birch, which, nodding to one another, passed the gossip to the beech, and the beech to the hazel, and the hazel to the alder and willow, these in turn imparting them to the singing river, which retold them in fresh songs, so they all came to the ears of the red men that dwelt along the silver river.* Under its inviting shade at noonday the wild deer had loved to lie, finding restful solace from its distant wander- ings, and at nightfall the stealthy panther had sought the protection of its powerful arms for a brief respite in its nocturnal raids. Beneath one of its gnarled roots the timid fox had made its home, unfearing and unmolested. *The Delaware Indians had a legend which resembled this somewhat, while it was told by the Penacooks in other forms. Some said the fox was the spirit of evil instead of that of the warrior’s father. Still others believed it was the raith of the Great Spirit. — Author. 29 30 THE ENCHANTED BOW Among its lofty coppices the forest songster had built its nest, making the wilderness resound with its musical notes. And here the red man built his council fires and awoke the silence with his war songs and scenes of mimic battles. Here twice within its memory had the dusky foes met in terrific conflict, the twang of the bows, the sighing of arrows and the thud of stone hatchets dulled by the defiant death cries of the bravest of the brave, as the contending foes fought to the bitter end of death. In the sunlight of brighter years the Indian maiden had here her tryst with her dusky lover and plighted the troth of love unto the end. It was then the old oak unbended its sterner self and looked softly down on maid and warrior in the gentle twilight, for afar back in the dawn of more than four cen- times of life, when its own form had none of its present gnarled appearance, but when it uplifted its head with the erectness and suppleness of the young pine, it remembered a companion that relieved its loneliness and touched its heart with the tender glow of sympathetic harmony. But many generations of the kindred of the wild deer, the prowling panther, the timid fox, the merry wildbird, the warlike red man, the trustful maiden and her lover, have come and passed away, aye, even the young oak, with its promise of long years and lasting beauty, succumbed to the wintry blasts of this northern clime. Thus the mon- arch stood lonely in its years. At last the mighty oak, which had defied so many times the tempest as it groaned over the plains or hung from the rocky towers of the everlasting hills, read in the lightning scrolls of the leaden-hued sky its doom. That very day it had witnessed the last tryst of Lewana, the proud Penacook brave, and his adored Clematis without unbending its iron arms or touching their brows with its leafy fingers. It had no sympathy with the boastful brave who constantly vaunted his war-like deeds and who sought to win his bride with war songs rather than by lover’s art- ful ways. Clematis did not look with favor on her fiery wooer, and the oak always was the maiden’s friend. A LEGEND OF THE SUNCOOK 31 Not many hours since Lewana breathed his passionate vows and turned away from the spot when dark clouds rolled over the face of the sun and deep mutterings were wafted on the wind, while a thousand arrows of lightning darted from the Great Spirit’s storm bow. Deeper grew the inky mass overhead, louder the peal on peal of thunder, and sharper the flying shafts of lightning. The stout old oak shook, its arms clasped and unclasped and smote each other, until, a brighter flash lighting for an instant its grand form, the monarch stood a shattered wreck. As quickly as it had risen the storm cleared away and, as if satisfied with its work, a peaceful smile rested on the landscape, which had been robbed of its noblest figure. Soon Lewana passed that way to note with a warror’s surprise the wreck of the oak. Then as his clear eye glanced at the scattered fragments of bark and splintered branches he uttered a grunt of amazement. Half buried in a heap of the litter he saw a beautifully carved bow, such as the most skilled hand in his tribe had never wrought. Not without some dread he stooped and picked it up, joyed to find that it did not slip away from him or resent his touch. He found it to be the smoothest bow he had ever seen, and its string gave the sharpest twang he had ever heard. Elated over his prize he hastened home to show it to his brother braves and to the gray-headed chieftain with the wisdom of near a hundred years. This sage gravely shook his head, saying: “ ’Tis not for thee, my son. Take it back whence thou didst find it, lest thou anger those who bore it through the storm raging over hill and vale. It is plainly the weapon of those spirits who roam unseen our hunting grounds.” But Lewana was loath to give up thus his treasure, and he decided to fit at least one arrow to the bow before he did so. “Surely that will be time enough to return it to the riven oak,” he thought. 32 THE ENCHANTED BOW So the next day Lewana tried his new bow and though, perchance, his hand trembled when he used it, the arrow went straight to the mark. Once he had tried the wonderful bow he was more and more loath to part with it. Whatsoe’er the distance, howsoe’er his aim, the marvelous bow never failed to send the arrow to the heart of the target. “Surely,” thought Lewana, “those who fly in trains the track of storm have given me this to win yet greater renown. I will keep it and show them that I am worthy of their trust. It will help me win Clematis, for no hunter can now hope to match Lewana, the long-eyed.” So he kept the bow of the lightning riven oak, and with each certain twang he grew famous as a hunter and vaunted louder than ever of his prowess. From the deer ground of old Pawtuckaway to the haunts of the bear under Moosehillock, from the lair of the panther in the caverns of Cyciasoga to the foxland of the Uncanoonucs his fame extended as a hunter, while he grew in importance among the wise men of his tribe, so that he was admitted to their councils. His companions grew to fear him, and none dared to cross his will, for his aim never failed, his arrow never missed its mark. In new vain-glory he renewed his suit of Clematis, confident now that she would no longer say him nay. To his angry wonder she was more obdurate than ever. If she had disliked him before she hated him now. In the rage of his disappointment he vowed that she should be his, willing or not willing, and with the threat on his lips he went to join the great fall hunt to start that day. Telling his companions that the most required of them would be to bring home the game he should slay with his bow of the riven oak, he proudly led them on their long march. On the second day one of the dusky hunters started a silver fox which not only escaped his arrow but eluded it with an ease which provoked him. Then another brave A LEGEND OF THE SUNCOOK 33 saw and lost the wary creature, and then a third, and a fourth, a fifth, aye, every hunter save Lewana met and missed the cunning fox — the handsomest they had ever seen of its kind. “Let me get my long eye on the silver fox and his skin shall be the grandest trophy of the chase for me,” said Lewana. “And my triumph will be all the greater that the rest of you have been dishonored by him.” His companions shook their heads, one of them saying: “He is no mortal fox! Beware of him, lest he bring you much evil.” Lewana laughed at his more cautious friend, and even as he did so, lo! the wonderful creature bounded right across his pathway. Then began the wildest chase ever witnessed in the wildwoods of the Land of Granite Hills. All daylong, now dodging to the right, anon darting to the left, in sight now, gone in the twinkling of an eye, bound- ing through the dense swamp where even Lewana of the long eye was obliged to pass around, always luring his pur- suer on but ever eluding him, the silver fox maintained the race. Angry that he should be baffled at every turn, Lewana followed until at last a small opening in the woodland was reached, and to the dusky hunter’s joy he saw that the silver fox, as if unable to go farther, had stopped at the foot of a big tree. Failing to notice in his excitement that the hunted creature had paused beside the riven oak, the now exultant warrior fitted an arrow to his charmed bow and let fly his winged shaft. To his dismay the string gave back no twang, though the arrow flew on its way, striking the tree with a dull thud, causing the dry branches of the oak to smite them- selves together in a wild manner. The fox? He suddenly vanished, and in this space stood the white wraith of Lewana’s father. Finding that their companion did not return from the chase, his friends searched for him until they found his 34 THE ENCHANTED BOW lifeless body under the riven oak, which now stood stark and stern. And they made a grave for Lewana near by, and placed beside him his sheaf of arrows, but with no bow. Neither was any sapling planted above his lonely mound, for none had the hardihood to do it, so the vanity of this life carried a curse for Lewana into the next. This is the story an old chieftain told under the dead oak to the first white man who found his footsteps turned in that direction. § (Barrow 1 ). ' Jrc rATHLesf r°rcfTj know nice n°t. f4=rr ravnr wneitc tny can°e /TPArcb Jrc r o Nbir wnitc PCAcn pcai rr n°t tut tpack. |T/ WATCIT/ PEEL N° rAbbLE-PLAbC. Si- Thy /eatchle// race have l°ng peem qome®»S-^ THy RATH/ ARE TR°b PT OTHER/- N°W; “ pRQ°TTEM ARE THY VAUAMT bEED/ cgfe-3 yAbb 0 'ER THY QRAVE TEE WILb-RLWERf +-Ug ||Tee deer /till r°ve tee LEARY w°°b.r. JKe L°°N /TILL CRIE/ ACR 0 // TEE LAKE, "j"EE. PEAR /TILL H°LD/ IT/ bEH UH/CAREb. yAhb WILb-RoWL/ REEL AAMb TEE PRAKE. / JpE bEADLT MATCNCT PUftlEb LICX |XT |-f 0 PR°R.T THRILL li° -TETTLER1T PEEAXT "ff\C WAR-CLUPX bEEbX °P PL°°b APE b°NC ]rE TWAMQinQ P°«/-J'TPINQ IT AT RE/T. .rws s Jmr camp-pipe /a°ke m° l°pqee cuklx fllb PPANCI1E/ CRCEN °P TALL TIME TPEEXi po WIQWAA ^TAMbX AP°VE TKE PANK . fl° C°ENriELbX P°W PEP°RE TRE PREEZE. ^ 3 ’22 J)TILL n°UNTAINf T°WER °N EITHER HANb, y\fiCs NEAR TR£ WINblNQ RIVER fWEEF/ JTILL fTANbf TRC CLIFF AM°NQ TRE FINE/ y/\ Nb °'ER TRE EL AIN A WATCH IT KEEF/. T /CAN/ TRE WE/T. IF TN°U ART THERE y\Nb IF TW°ULb Fib THEE PACK °NCE A°RE: j^UT HUNTINQ-GR°UNbf N°W H°Lb TNEE FLEfT. "|RE INblAN/ bAT °F FAME If °ER. DATE DUE y y o npn 1 7 1997 nil ? 1 2003 IAY 1 n 'D07 UNIVERSITY PRODUCTS, INC. #859-5503 NGV23*22