Ill jjpll CALEDONIA. CALEDONIA: OB, A HISTORICAL AND TOPOGRAPHICAL ACCOUNT OF NORTH BRITAIN FROM THE MOST ANCIENT TO THE PRESENT TIMES, WITH A DICTIONARY OF PLACES CHOROGRAPHICAL AND PHILOLOGICAL. BY GEORGE CHALMERS, F.R.S., F.S.A. NEW EDITION. — VOL. IV. PAISLEY: ALEXANDER 1889. GARDNER. DA 760 mn v/. if BOSTOr t; ' 'BRARY CHESTNUf h.o, IViA 02167 Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 501 CHAP. IV. (Continued.) Of Haddingtonshire. § viii. Of its Ecclesiastical History.~\ It is an instructive fact that within the limits of Lothian scarcely a druid monument remains ; and this fact pretty- plainly intimates that some religious event took place within that country dur- ing the obscure events which succeeded the abdication of the Roman power, whereof history is silent. The intrusion of a pagan people upon the Romanized Ottadini. along the southern shore of the Forth, produced, during the fifth cen- tury, the destruction of the Druid monuments within the limits of Lothian. The conversion of the Saxons of Lothian to the truths of Christianity is an event as darksome as the topic is curious. The worthy Baldred, a disciple of Kentigern, may be considered as the apostle of East Lothian (e). During the 6th century Baldred fixed his cell at Tyninghame, and thence preached the gos- pel throughout the adjacent country (f). We have thus seen that such a per- son existed during the 6th century, established a religious house at Tyninghame, and thence went out, at stated periods, according to the practice of the age, to inculcate the faith by preaching the gospel (g). Amidst the obscurities of the 6th and 7th centuries, it is in vain to trace the immediate successors of the deserving Baldred (h). The year 635 is the epoch of the bishopric of Lindis- farne (i), and this bishopric extended over the ample range of Lothian till the (e) Major, 68 ; Spottiswoode's Church Hist., 11. (/) The English Martyrol., 70-1, wherein he is placed under the 29th of March. In Dempster's Menologia Scotia, Baldred is put under the 6th of March. Keith speaks of St. Baldred as the successor of Kentigern and a confessor ; and he martyrs him on the 6th of March, 608 a.d. Keith's Bishops. 232. Baldred died, as we learn from Simeon of Durham, 1. ii., c. 2, on the 6tb of March, 606-7. On the coast of Tyninghame parish, there is a rock called St. Baldred's Cradle. On the shore of the neighbouring parish of Aldhame there is a rock which tradition has named St. Baldred's Boat. (g) There was a Saxon monastery of St. Balther [Baldred] at Tyninghame. Smith's Bede, 231-54. His district or diocese is described by Simeon : " et tota terra quae pertinet ad monasterium soncti Balthere quod vocatur Tyningham a Lambei'more usque ad Escemuthe [Inveresk]." Twisden, 69. Imperfect as this delineation is, it comprehends the whole extent of East Lothian. (A) " Anlafus incensa et vastata ecclesia sancti Baldredi in Tyningham, 941, mox periit." Chron. Melrose. Hoveden says Anlafe spoiled the church of St. Balthar and burnt Tyningham. Saville, 423 : see Matthew of Westminster. (i) Saville's Chronol. Table. Vol. IV, New Ed. 502 An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV. — Haddingtonshire. decline of the Northumbrian kingdom (k). The epoch of the cession of Lothian, in 1020, to the Scottish king, is also the epoch of the establishment of the bishop of St. Andrew's jurisdiction over the churches of Lothian. The archdeacon of Lothian, who derived his power from the bishop of St. Andrews, under the reigns of David I. and Alexander L, exercised his authority over the whole clergy of Haddingtonshire. Of old, the three Lothians and the eastern part of Stirlingshire, formed two deaneries within the diocese of St. Andrews, the deanery of Linlithgow, and the deanery of Lothian ; and this last deanery, at the epoch of the ancient Taxatio [1176], included the whole parishes of Had- dingtonshire and nearly the half of the churches of Mid-Lothian (I). Before the epoch of Bagimont [1275], the deanery of Lothian had changed its name to the deanery of Haddington, but it retained its ancient limits till the epoch of the Reformation. The dean of Haddington and the archdeacon of Lothian were ecclesiastical persons of great authority under the bishop of St. Andrews, as we may learn from the chart ularies (m). For the better governance of the clergy, the (&) Tyningharn belonged to the bishopric of Lindisfarne, saith Hoveden. Saville, 418 ; Sim. Dunelm. Col., 139 ; Lei. Col., i., 366 ; ii., 181. (/) According to the ancient Taxatio, the decanatus de Lothian comprehended the following parishes, which were assessed as under : In East-Lothian. Mercas. Ecclesia de Seton - - - Mercas - 18 Ecclesia de Haldhamstok - - - - 60 Ecclesia de Travernent - - 65 Ecclesia de Innerwyk - 30 Ecclesia de Keth-hundby - 30 Ecclesia de Dunbar cum capella de Whytinge- Ecclesia de Keth-marschall . 12 ham ------ 180 Ecclesia de Ormiston . 12 Ecclesia de Tyningham - - - - 40 Ecclesia de Han us [Petcoks] - 10 Aberlady [within the bishoprick of Dunkeld]. Ecclesia de Aldham - - - - - 6 Spot [rectoria in Bagimont's Boll.] Ecclesia de Linton - 100 Ecclesia de North-Berwyk - - - - 60 In Mid-Lothian. Ecclesia de Hadingtoun - 120 Ecclesia de Muskilburgh - 70 Capella St 5 Ecclesia de Cranstoun - 60 Ecclesia de Elstanford - 10 Ecclesia de Creichtoun - - 30 Ecclesia de Garvald - - - - - 15 Ecclesia de Fauelaw 6 Ecclesia de Barwe - - - - - 20 Ecclesia de Locherwort - - 40 Ecclesia de Morham - - - - - 20 Ecclesia de Kerynton - 18 Ecclesia de Bothani - - - - - 30 Ecclesia de Kocpen - 20 Ecclesia de Bolton - - - - - 20 Ecclesia de Clerkington - 8 Ecclesia de Salton - - - - - 30 Ecclesia de Maisterton - 4 Ecclesia de Penkatland - 40 Ecclesia de Heriet - 30 Ecclesia de Golyn - - - - - 80 Ecclesia de Monte Laodoniae - - 12 (m) There is a charter of Richard, bishop of St. Andrews, to the monastery of Haddington, in which Andrew, the archdeacon of Lothian, is a witness. Transact. Soc. Antiq. Edin., i., 112-13. Sect. VITT. —Its Ecclesiastical History.} Of NOBTH-BRITAIN. 503 bishop of St. Andrews used to call episcopal synods; more anciently at Berwick, as we have seen ; more recently at Haddington, as we may now perceive (n). There is a composition of the year 1245, between the prior and chapter of St. Andrews on the one part, and the monks of Haddington on the other, in which the chapter " Orientali Laodonie," of East Lothian is very distinctly stated. This composition was read before the chapter of Lothian, by whom it was testi- fied (o). When the bishopric of Edinburgh was established in an evil hour by Charles I., the ancient authority of the bishop of St. Andrews was taken away, and his powers were transferred to the bishop of Edinburgh (p). The ecclesias- tical affairs of this district continued to be properly managed, till the Refor- mation placed it under the jurisdiction of synods and presbyteries. Connected with that regimen of old were the religious houses, which owed obedience to the diocesan power of the episcopate of St. Andrews. During the reign of Malcolm IV. the Countess Ada, the mother of Malcolm and William, founded, near Haddington, a convent of Cistercian nuns, which was dedicated to the Virgin, and whose site is still marked by a village, which is called the Abbey (q). This monastery, before the age of David II., was very richly endowed by the several grants of various personages (?•). In the ancient Taxatio the lands of this house were rated at £100. In July 1292, Alicia, the prioress of Haddington, with her convent, did homage to Edward I. (s). On the 28th of August 1296, Eve, the successor of Alicia, submitted to the same overbear- ing prince, and, in return, had a restoration of her rights (t). An inundation of the Tyne at Christmas 1358, had well nigh swept away the nunnery, which, There is a charter of bishop Roger in which William, the archdeacon of Lothian, and Andrew, the dean of Lothian, are witnesses. Id. Laurence, the archdeacon of Lothian, is a witness to a charter of bishop Malvoisin, from 1202 to 1233. Ib., 114. In 1268, on the elevation of William Wiscard [WischartJ from the see of Glasgow to the see of St. Andrews, " Robertus Wiscard nepos ejus, archi- diacanus Laodonia; factus est electus Glasguensis, deinde in episcopum cousecratus." Chron. Melrose : Keith's Bishops, 143. (n) From attendance at those synods the bishop used sometimes to grant dispensations. He granted to the monks of Durham an exemption from attending his synods at Berwick. Smith's Bede, App. xx. In 1293 Bishop Laniberton exempted the abbots of Dryburgh from attending his synodal meetings at Haddington. Chart. Dryb., 177, and if those abbots of Dryburgh should attend those meetings on urgent occasions, the bishop granted them a pension, to be paid by the dean of Haddington. Id. (o) Trans. Ant. Soc. Edin., 119, which is a very instructive document. (p) See the charter of erection in Keith, 28-37. By it the ministers of Tranent, Haddington, and Dunbar were constituted three of the nine prebendaries of Edinburgh. (q) See her grants in the Transact. Antiq. Soc. Edin. (r) MS. Monast. Scotiae. Major, who was born at Haddington, speaks of this house as "monasterium pulchrum, et opulentum.'' (s) Ryro., ii., 572. (t) Prynne, iii., 653 ; Rym., ii. 725. 504 An ACCOUNT Ch. IV. — Haddingtonshire. according to the legend of the times, was preserved by the intervention of the Virgin (u). In May 1359, William, the bishop of St. Andrews, more effectually preserved the prioress, her house, and her possessions, by an inspeximus charter, which speaks of Haddington as being near the hostile border, and subject thereby to frequent devastation, and which confirms her rights and recognizes her pri- vileges Or). The prioress and nuns of Haddington were subject to other at- tacks. The lairds of Yester and Makerstoun ungallantly seized their lands of Nunhopes, and the injured nuns had no other resource than a complaint, in 1471, to the privy council. But the lairds were not to be frightened from their prey, and the prioress brought a complaint of their pertinacity and her wrongs before the parliament, in May 1471. The appropriate judges of such injuries, upon proof of the facts, decreed the two lairds to be committed, and to refund to the prioress and convent the profits of their lands (?/). The effluxion of years brought with it other grievances to the prioress and nuns of Haddington. The state of the country was such as that the granges of their convent should be fortified ; and at their grange of Nunraw, in Garvald parish, they had a for- talice. In February 1547-8, Elizabeth Hepburn, the prioress, appeared before the regent and his council, and engaged to keep the fortlet of Nunraw from their old enemies, or to cause it to be razed (z). In July 1548, a parliament as- sembled in her nunnery, where it was resolved, by the Estates, to defend their harassed land against their old enemies, and to send their infant queen to France as a place of safety from the fraudulence and force which assailed them (a). The time came at length when the same prioress was required to give a statement of her estate, with a view to the suppression of her nunnery (b). This nunnery had for its economist old Sir Richard Maitland of Lethington, the statesman, the jurist, the poet (c). The monastery of Hadd- (u) Fordun, 1. xiv., c. 21. (x) That charter of bishop William is printed in Trans. Soc. Ant. Edin., 106. (y) Pari. Bee, 160, states both the wrong and the reparation of the nuns, and incidentally furnishes a singular trait of the rudeness of the times. (z) Keith's App., 56. (a) lb., 55. (b) In February, 1561, Elizabeth Hepburn, who was now called a venerable lady, stated that there were then in the convent eighteen nuns, who were each allowed £4 yearly for clothes, 4 bolls of wheat, and 3 bolls of meal, with eightpence a day for flesh and fish. Books of Assumption. She reported her revenues to be in money £308 17s. 6d.; wheat, 7 chalders, 11 bolls. [In this statement the oats are omitted.] She had, moreover, fines, carriages, capons, other poultry, from the tenants on her estates. The Books of Assumption stated this rental somewhat larger. But there had been some dilapidations of the estates of the convent when the hand of reform began to be felt. (c) On the 15th of December, 1564, Sir Bichard designates himself, in a charter to his son, " Oeconomus monasterii monialium de Hadington." Spottiswoode, 514. Sect, VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.} Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 505 ington was given by the queen to her secretary, William Maitland, Sir Bichard's eldest son, who is so celebrated for his talents and tergiversation ; and who is called the father of mishief by Knox, and the chamelion by Buchanan. What was said of Buchanan himself might be appropriately said of Secretary Mait- land, — his abilities were honourable, but his crimes were disgraceful to Scot- land (cl). At North-Berwick, on the south-western side of the town, upon a command- ing height, which looks down upon the Forth and upon the shore of Fife beyond it, Duncan, the Earl of Fife, who died in 1154, founded a convent for Cistercian nuns (e). The founder gave them some lands in his manor of North- Berwick, with the patronage of its church and various lands and revenues in Fife ; and they acquired the advowson of the church of Largo, of Kilconquhar. Kilbrachment, and St. Monance, in Fife, with some lands that belonged to each of them. The bishop of Dunblane gave them the church of Logie-Airthry near Stirling. Adam de Kilconacher, the Earl of Carrick, who was their zealous patron, confirmed, in 1266, to those nuns the grants of his fathers (f); and they obtained various lands, tithes, and revenues, in East and West- Lothian, in Fife, in Ayrshire, and in the shires of Berwick and of Roxburgh (g). (cZ) On the 13th of December, 1563, Eandolph wrote to Cecil, that " the abbey of Haddington was given by the queen to Lethington," [Secretary Maitland.] Keith, 244. On the 20th of October, 1567, dame Isabel Hepburn, the prioress of this abbey, issued her precept to Eichard Cranston, her baillie, directing him to infeft William Maitland, the younger of Lethington, in the demesne lands of her monastery of Haddington, in the lands of Mertoun, of West Hopes, of East Hopes, of Woodend, of Newlands, of Windislaw, of Snawdown, of Carfrae, of Little-Newton, with the tithes ; all which she had granted him in fee with the consent of her chapter. Spottiswoode, 515. Almost all those lands lie in the parish of Garvald. (e) Sir James Dalrymple, Col., 268, said he had seen David I.'s charter, confirming that foundation, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and the charters of King William and Earl Duncan, with other charters, from the Kings, the Earls of Fife, from Duncan of Carrick, Adam de Kilconachar, the Earl of Carrick, and from the bishops of St. Andrews, to the monastery of North Berwick ; but that they were all nearly burnt in the great fire at Edinburgh in 1700. Spottiswoode, 515 ; and Keith, 282. Both, being misled by Fordun, mistakingly say that this nunnery was founded in 1216 by a second Duncan, Earl of Fife. (/) That knightly person, whose very name has been mistaken by the Scottish chroniclers, was the first husband of the Countess of Carrick, the mother of Eobert Bruce, the restorer of the Scottish monarchy : " An 0 1270, obijt Adam de Kilconcath, comes de Carrick, in Anconia, cujus uxorem commitissam de Carrick postea junior Eob. de Bruys accepit sibi, in sponsam." Chron. Melrose. (g) Among much greater matters, Edwai'd de Lestalric granted them a toft in Leith, with three acres of land, at Greenside which they leased for ever to the monks of Newbotle, for the yearly rent of half a mark legal money. Chart. Newbot., 57-8. 506 An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV. — Haddingtonshii'i In the ancient Taxatio, the lands which belonged to the nuns of North-Berwick were rated at £66 13s. 4d. In 1296, the prioress of North-Berwick submitted to the overpowering Edward I., and in return she obtained from his policy writs to the several sheriffs of Fife, Edinburgh, Haddington, Berwick, and Box- burgh, to restore the estates of her convent (h). While submission thus ensured protection, the female inhabitants of the nunnery of North-Berwick were safe ; but in the progress of turbulence and warfare, anarchical ages arose, when weakness only invited the attacks of violence. Such was the state of Scotland under James III. The servants and the tithes of the prioress, within the parishes of Kilconquhar, Kilbranchmont, and St. Monance, were assaulted and seized by John Dishington and other inhabitants of Fife, which seems to have been noted for violence in every age. The prioress applied to parlia- ment in December 1482, for protection against obvious wrongs, and the Lords decreed the wrong-doers to restore the property taken, and to repair the damages done (i). In the subsequent reign, Margaret Home, the fourth daughter of Sir Patrick Home of Polwortk,- who died in 1504, became a nun, and rose to be prioress in this convent of North-Berwick (k). Her niece, Isobel Home, the third daughter of Sir Alexander Home of Polworth, who died in 1532, from being a nun also succeeded her aunt as prioress (I). We have thus seen that, before the Reformation began, the nunnery of North- Berwick had become in a great measure the inheritance of the Homes. After (5) Eym., ii., 723. There was a guardian of this nunnery as well as a prioress. On the 28th of August, 1296, William Vicaire de l'Eglise de Lancta, gardeyn de la Priorite de North-Berwick, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick. Prynne, iii., 660. Sir James Dalrymple, Col., 268, says this convent had a prior as well as a prioress ; but Sir James was not much versed in the details of such establishments. (i) Pari. Eec, 266. This was the first Parliament after the restoration of James III., when he could hardly sustain his crown against the insidiousness of Albany and the intrigues of Angus. (k) Dougl. Peer., 445. (/) Id. In 1532, Dame Isobel Home granted to her half-brother, Alexander Home, in fee, the tithes of the church of Largo in Fife. Spottiswoode, 516. She was succeeded as prioress by Margaret Home, who, on the 24th of March, 1555-6, granted the tithes of the parish of Logie, in the diocese of Dunblane, to Sir Patrick Home of Polworth, and to his heirs. Id. On the 18th of March, 1569-70, Alexander Home, the second son of Sir Patrick Home of Polworth, obtained a grant " officii Balivatus monasterii de North Berwick.'' Id., which quotes the public archives. At the Reformation the income of the nunnery, which was then inhabited by eleven nuns, who had each £20 a year, was stated thus : Money, £556 17s. 8d. : wheat, 9 chalders, 12 bolls ; bear, 19 chalders, 4 bolls ; oats, 14 chalders, 4 bolls ; pease and beans, 3 chalders, 9 bolls ; malt, 1 boll, 3 firlots, and 3 pecks ; 18 oxen, 13 cows ; 1 last, 9 barrels of salmon. Books of Assumption. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NOBTH-BBITAIN. 507 the Reformation, the revenues of this nunnery, which had remained undilapi- dated, were converted by operation of law into a lordship for Sir Alexander Home of North-Berwick, a favourite of James VI. The patronage of the churches of Kilconquhar, Largo, Logie, and Maybole were conferred, by the king's pleasure and the parliamentary power, on several persons who thought themselves entitled to plunder the house which they had assisted in pulling down (m). At Gullane, near the church, stood of old a convent of Cistercian nuns, which was a cell of the Cistercian nunnery of David I.'s foundation at Berwick, and which ran the devious course of similar establishments (n). At Elbotle, in the parish of Dirlton, there was such a convent for Cistercian nuns, which was also a cell of the same establishment at South-Berwick (o). Such, then, were the Cistercian monasteries in East-Lothian, of which we have seen the rise, the elevation and suppression. Of Franciscan friars or minorites, East-Lothian had its share of their estab- lishments. During the reign of Alexander II., a Franciscan monastery was founded in Haddington town (p). In February 1355-6, while Edward III. wasted the whole lands of East-Lothian, he burnt the town and monastery of Haddington with the church of the minorites. Fordun speaks feelingly of this as a sumptuous ivork, which was universally admired as the light of Lothian (q). Major, on the other hand, inveighs against the minorites for building so costly (m) See the act of the Estates on the 4th August, 1565, in Glendook. There is a delineation of the ruins of the monastery of North Berwick in Grose's Scots Antiq., i., 74. (k) Spottiswoode, 512. (o) Id. The name of El-botle is merely an abbreviation of the Saxon £7cZ-botle, signifying the old dwelling, in contradistinction, perhaps, to Newbotle, in Mid-Lothian. In Pont's map of Lothian, in Blaeu, the place is called Old-Bottel. (p) In 1314, Sir John Congalton of Congalton granted to those friars a provision of bread and wine to the altar of St. Duthac, in the name of the church of those minorites, near to which the bodies of his father and mother were buried ; and the friars were obliged to celebrate the anniversaries of the grantor, and of his father and mother, and of his ancestors and successors, at the said altar, so long as there should be three brethren in the convent. Dougl. Peer., 521. Sir William Seton, during the reign of Eobert III., made a similar grant to the same friars of coals and money. MS. Hist, of the family. (q) Ford., L xiv., c. 13. On the 16th of September, 1421, the Tyne being flooded by unusual rains, carried away twelve mills and entered the friar church in Haddington, so that the valuables in the sacristy and the books in the library were spoilt. Ib., 1. xv., c. 34. The western part of this once splendid structure is now used as the parish church of Haddington. The other part of it, being unroofed, is falling fast into ruins. See a view of it in the Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., by Col. Hutton of the Artillery, and another delineation in Grose's Scots Antiq., i., 82. 508 An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV. — Haddingtonshire. a church, and supposes that this circumstance, as much as the sins of the town, may have induced God to give the whole to the flames. For such oracular ob- servations, Major exposed himself to the ridicule of Buchanan and the contempt of Knox, who, without superior learning, were guilty of greater faults. Haddington also had a house of Dominican or Black Friars, who were intro- duced into Scotland during the reign of Alexander II. ; but nothing of its foun- der and little of its history are known (r). They ran the same course with similar establishments, and when their usefulness was gone their oblivion be- gan. In 1218, Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, founded a house of Red or Trinity Friars at Dunbar ; and the lands which piety or zeal had given them, were transferred, after the Reformation, to George Home of Friarslands (s). On such occasions this observation must for ever occur, that such lands, in posses- sion of such establishments, were of some use to the public ; but, in the hands of an individual, they were of none. In 1263, Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, founded a house for Carmelites or White Friars at Dunbar ; but it appears not what favourite was gratified with this property, instead of the heirs of the founder (t). At Luffness, in Aberlady parish, there was another convent of Carmelites, to whom David II. granted a charter of confirmation, as a tribute of his appro- bation (u). In Haddingtonshire there were at least half a dozen hospitals which had their usefulness during ages of misery. The best endowed in Scotland, perhaps, was the hospital which was founded in 1164 by Malcolm IV. at Soltre. On the summit of Soutra hill, which separates the Lothians from Lauderdale, Malcolm founded his house, for the relief of pilgrims, the sustentation of the poor, and the help of the sickly. Malcolm richly endowed it with many lands. This youthful king gave it the privilege of sanctuary while crimes were not unfrequent ; and there led from it, southward, through the moors to Mel- rose, a path which thus acquired the appropriate name of the Girth-gate (x). General Roy, a professed quarter-master, was led out of his course of inquiries by this Girth-gate, as we have seen. There was a way which led up Lauderdale to Soutra hill, and which, as we have observed, was called Malcolms road. The grants of Malcolm IV. to Soltre were confirmed, by his two immediate succes- sors, William and Alexander II. , who added to his their own liberalities. From (?■) Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 64 ; Grose's Scots Antiq., i., 82. (s) Spottiswoode, 505. (f) lb., 505. (u) Eobertson's Index, 51. Spottiswoode, in his ambition of knowledge, has mistakingly planted Red Friars at Luffness. Acco. of Relig. Houses, App. to Hope's Minor Practicks, 430. (x) In the Saxon speech, we may remember, girth signified a sanctuary, and gate a way. Sect, VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 509 bishops, barons, and from inferior persons, the master and brethren of this house obtained churches, tithes, lands, tofts, annuities, corn, meal, and other property, privileges, and exemptions (y). But the master and brethren of Soltre did long enjoy such great estates in quiet. On the 29th of July 1292, Ralph, the master of Soltre, swore fealty to Edward I. in the chapel of Edinburgh castle (z). On the 28th of August 1296, Thomas, the master of the Trinity hospital of Soltre, did homage to the same prince at Berwick (a) ; and he obtained in return, precepts to several sheriffs to deliver him the estates and rights of the hospital (b). In 1410, Thomas de Alton was master of Soltre (c), and in 1440 Thomas Lauder was also master of the same house; and he was tutor to James II.; and was made bishop of Dun- keld in 1453. He resigned his bishopric in 1476, being unable, from age and infirmity, to perform the functions of his diocese (d). On the 25th of (y) To this hospital belonged, from the gift of the founder, the church of Soltre, with its pertinents. It derived the church of Wemyss, in Fife, with its tithes and tofts, from the grant of John de Methkill, during the reign of William, which was confirmed by David and Gamelin, the bishops of St. Andrews. Chart. Solt., 1-38. The church of Urd [Kiikurd], in Tweeddale, with its pertinents, which was confirmed by the Bishop of Glasgow in 1231. Ib., 40-2. The church of St, Martin of Strathechyn, with its pertinents, which was confirmed by the Bishop of St. Andrews between 1214 and 1248. Ib. 3. The church of Lempetlaw, in Teviotdale, was given to this hospital by Richard Germyn during the reign of Alexander II. Ib., 4. The church of St. Giles of Oimiston was given the hospital by William, the Bishop of St. Andrews, from 1202 to 1233. Ib., 5. The master and brethren of the house obtained, from Malcolm IV., the lands of Hangandshaw in Teviotdale, which was confirmed by Alexander II. Ib., 25-7. They acquired some lands from Simon Fraser in the districts of Keitb, Jonestoun, and Keith-Harvey. Ib., 26. Richard, the exjyensarius of William the Lion, gave them his lands in Paistoun, in East-Lothian. Ib., 22. Thomas de Cranstoun gave them a culture of land within the same district. Ib., 15. William de Muleneys gave them half a carucate of land in Saltoun. Ib., 11. Peter de Grame conferred on them three bovates of land in Elviston. Ib.. 49. Nicholas de Vetereponte gave them the lands of Swanston in Mid-Lothian. Ib., 13. In 1228 Alexander II. gave them yearly a thrave of corn from every plough within his lands lying southward of the Forth. Ib., 41. He gave them also half a chalder of meal yearly from the mill of Peebles. Ib., 8. John de Strivelin granted a thrave of corn yearly from each plough within his lands lying on the south of the Forth. Ib., 27. Thomas de Hay made them a similar grant from his lands in the same country. Ib., 53. David Olifard gave them a thrave of corn yearly from every plough within his lands. Ib., 16. And from various other persons they obtained grants of lands, tithes, rents, and profits. See their chartulary, which remains in the Advocates' Library. [Printed in the Bannatyne Club Publications.] 0) Rym., ii., 572. (a) Prynne, iii., 660. (b) Rym., ii., 726. (c) Crawfurd's MS. Notes. (d) On the 13th of March 1480-1, James III. confirmed a charter of Thomas, late Bishop of Dunkeld, and noiv bishop of the universal church. He died on the 4th of November 1481, after seeing his house, the pious foundation of Malcolm IV., perverted to a different purpose. Keith, 55. 510 An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV. — Haddingtonshire. March 1462, Mary of Gueldre, the widowed queen of James IT., founded near Edinburgh, a collegiate church, which she dedicated to the Trinity, and which was to consist also of a hospital, for the maintenance of thirteen poor persons ; and for the support of this mixed establishment, the churches, lands, and revenues belonging to the hospital of Soltre, were assigned by apostolic authority for those useful ends (e). At Balencrief, the habitation at the tree, in Aberlady parish, there was an hospital founded as early as the 12th century ; though by whose piety it was dedicated to St. Cuthbert is now un- known. On the 29th of July 1292, William Fornal, " magister domus de Ballencrief," swore fealty to Edward I. in the chapel of Edinburgh castle (f). The site of St. Cuthbert' s hospital was named by the Scottish settlers here, Balan-an-craohh, which is pronounced Balancreiv, in order to denote the habita- tion at the tree ; and it is now the seat of Lord Elibank. Near Seton there was founded in the 12th century, a hospital which was dedicated to St. Ger- mains, who thus gave his name to the place (g). It is still the seat of a gentle- man. On the 28th of August 1296, Bartholomew, the master of this hospital, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick (h) ; and in return, he received precepts to the sheriffs of Berwick, Edinburgh, and Fife, of Kincardine and Aberdeen, to restore the revenues of the house, which was thus situated in several shires (*). At Haddington town, there was of old an hospital which was dedicated to the Virgin, and yet escaped the researches of Spottiswoode (Jc). In the vicinage of the shire town there was a hospital dedicated to St. Laurence, and which left its name to a hamlet on the same site (I). On the estate of Gosford, in Aber- lady parish, there was anciently an hospital at a place which is known by the name of Gosford Spital. At Houston, in East-Lothian, there was of old (e) Maitland's Edin., 207-10. Nothing remains but the ruins of the hospital of Soltre, on Soutra Hill, near the wayside from Edinburgh to Kelso ; and adjoining them is a spring which was con- secrated of old to the Trinity, and is called by the country people, the Tarnty Well, that was much frequented by diseased persons. (/) Eym., ii., 572. On the 28th of August 1296, William Tornal, " Gardein de l'hospital de St. Cuthbert, de Balnecryf," swore fealty to the same king at Berwick. Prynne, iii., 663. (g) Among the several St. Germains, we may suppose the British, as best known, to have been the saint to whom this hospital was dedicated. English Martyr., 97. (h) Prynne, iii., 655. ({) Eym., ii., 725. (k) Edward II., when he affected the sovereignty of Scotland, on the 19th of July 1319, conferred on Thomas de Gayregrave the custody of the hospital of the Virgin Mary at Haddington. Eym., iii., 786. (I) James V. made his chaplain, Walter Eamsay, the rector of this hospital, to which the confirma- tion of the Pope was asked. Epist. Eeg. Scot., i., 193. Sect. YIU.— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 511 an hospital, though the piety of the founder and the site of the foundation be now equally unknown, as folly has changed the name of the place which was once denoted by wisdom (/) ; yet Houston appears as a provostry in the books of the privy seal, as we learn from Keith (m). Collegiate churches were not known in Scotland till the troublous reign of David IT. The first establishment of this kind was founded at Dunbar by Patrick, Earl of March, in 1342, when it was confirmed by William, the bishop of St. Andrews. The constitution of the collegiate church of Dunbar consisted of a dean, an archpriest, and eighteen canons. For their support were assigned the revenues of the church of Dunbar, and the incomes of the chapels of Whittinghame, of Spott, of Stenton, of Panshel [Penshiel], and of Hetherwick. The founder annexed to his collegiate establishment the churches of Linton in East-Lothian, and Duns and Chirnside in Berwickshire ; and he. reserved the patronage of the whole to himself and his successors, the Earls of Dunbar (n). This collegiate church was confirmed in 1492 by Henry, the bishop of St. Andrews, who recited the confirmation of his predecessor. By •a new regulation of this collegiate church, there were appointed as prebends of it, the churches of Dunbar, Pinkerton, Spot, Beltoun, Petcokis, Linton, Duns, and Chirnside. Except Pinkerton, these were all settled churches (o). (I) Among the East-Lothian gentry who swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick, on the 28th of August 129G, was " brother John, the master of the Trinity Hospital at Howeston." Prynne, iii., 956. A writ was soon after issued to the Sheriff of Haddington, directing the restoration of the property of the Holy Trinity at Howeston. Eym., ii., 726. In Bagimont's Boll the " magistrates de Howston," in the deanery of Haddington, is rated at £8. (»i) Hist. App., 257. It had been meantime converted, perhaps, into a collegiate church, (n) Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. Col., 3. Columba Dunbar was dean of the collegiate church of Dunbar in 1411. In 1429 he was made Bishop of Moray, and he died in 1435. Keith's Bishops, 84. (n) In Bagimont's Boll the component parts of the collegiate church of Dunbar were separately rated as under : — In the deanery of Haddington. Eectoria de Beltoun, ... £4. Q Q Decanatus de Dunbar, - - - £13 6 8 Eectoria de Petcokis, - - - 2 13 4 Archiepresbyterus, - - - 8 0 0 Eectoria de Linton, - - - 20 0 0 Eectoria de Dunbar, - - - 8 0 0 In the deanery of the Merse. Prebendarius de Pinkerton, - - 5 6 8 Eectoria de Duns, - - - 10 0 0 Eectoria de Spot, - - - 5 6 8 Eectoria de Chirnside, - - - 4 0 0 The same rates appear in a tax-roll of the archbishopric of St. Andrews in 1547. Master John Fleming was prebendary of Pinkerton on the 20th of March 1478-9. Pari. Bee, 249. 512 An ACCOUNT [Ch . IV. — Haddingtonsh ire. The patronage of this collegiate church fell to the king, by the forfeiture of the earldom of March in 1435 (p). Next in antiquity to the collegiate church of Dunbar, within this shire, was the collegiate establishment at Dunglass. Here in 1403 Sir Alexander Home of Home, who derived Dunglass from his mother, Nicolas Papedy, founded a college church for a provost and prebendaries, whom he endowed with several lands and some rents (q). Sir Alexander Home, the son of the founder, gave to this collegiate church four husband-lands in the manor of Chirnside, which were confirmed by James II. (r). In Bagimont's Roll the provostry of Dunglass, in the deanery of Haddington, was rated at £5 6s. 8d. After the Reformation the revenue of the provostry of Dunglass was returned at £82 (s). At Bothans, which was the name of the parish church of Yester, Sir William Hay of Locherwart founded, in 1421, a collegiate church for a provost, six prebendaries, and two singing boys ; and he endowed his foundation with lands and with rents. Sir William Hay, the founder, married for his second wife, Alicia Hay. the daughter of Sir Thomas Hay of Errol, whom he left a widow in 1421, and she outlived him almost 30 years. She granted, for the support of a chaplain in the college church of Bothans, the lands of Blanes, within the constabulary of Haddington, with various rents from tenements in Haddington town, amounting to £4 2s. 6d. There were settled on this collegiate church also, the lands which her son, Sir David Hay, gave as a mansion for the accommodation of the chaplain and his successors (t). In Bagimont's Roll the prcBpositura of Bothans is rated at £40 (u). In December 1475, Maister Andrew Hay, the provost of Bothans, brought a suit in parliament against Robert Lord Fleming, who was adjudged by the lords auditors, to pay the (p) Pari. Eec, 72. After the Reformation, tlie revenue of the archpriestry of Dunbar was stated at £80. Books of the Collectors of the Thirds. (q) Dougl. Peer., 343, which quotes the charter in the archives of Home. Nisbet says he saw the arms of Papedy impaled with those of Home, which were cut upon a stone in the chapel of Dunglass. Heraldry, ii., 53. We may suppose the chapel that Nisbet inspected to have been this collegiate church. (r) Spottiswoode, 522. (s) The Books of the Collectors of the Thirds. (<) MS. Donations. On the 8th of March, 1539, Robert Watherston granted for the same purpose, of supporting a chaplain for Bothan's church, a tenement in the Herdgate, and another in the Moor- gate of Haddington, with the several annual rents, amounting to £3 10s. 8d., in the same burgh, and two acres of land on the northern side of the town. Id. (u) After the Reformation, the revenue of this collegiate church was given in at £100 Scots. Books of the Collectors of the Thirds. Sect. VIII— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 513 complainant 13 marks 10s. and 8d. for the debt (a). Some doubts have been entertained, though without a cause, whether the collegiate church of Bothans and Yester be the same. In the ancient Taxatio the church was called " ecclesia de Bothani." Like other establishments, it was sometimes called St. Bothans, from the patron Saint, and sometimes Yester, from the place (6). At Dirlton, there was founded in 1444 a collegiate church with a small establishment by Sir Walter Halyburton. Its endowment seems to have been inconsiderable. Even at the Reformation, its revenue was returned only at £20 (c). Till that epoch the patronage of this collegiate church continued as a pertinent of the barony (cZ). The splendid church of Seton was made collegiate by George, Lord Seton in 1493. He herein formed an establishment of a provost, six prebendaries, two singing boys, and a clerk ; and he assigned for their support the lands and tithes of this church, with the chaplainries which had been founded in it by the piety of his ancestors (e). In Bagimont's Roll, the prsepositura de Seton, in the deanery of Haddington, was rated at £2 13s. 4d. At the Reformation, the revenue of this provostry was returned at £40 (f). In 1544, the English invaders, on their return from wasting Leith, burnt the castle of Seton ; and in their rage spoiled the collegiate church, carrying away the bells, organs, with the usual ornaments and other move- ables, which they embarked on board their attendant fleet (g). Near Seton, at St. Germains, there was an establishment of the Knights Templars, which, with their revenues, were bestowed by James IV., after their suppression, on the King's College of Aberdeen (h). In those religious establishments we may perceive the singular manners, perhaps the munificent piety, of several per- (a) Pari. Rec, 192. In 1469 Andrew Hay, the second son of Sir David Hay of Yester, was rector of Biggar. (5) The village at the church was also called Bothans. In 1320 Sir John Gifford, of Yester, granted to the monks of Dryburgh an annual rent from his village of Bothan. Dougl. Peer., 709. Yet Spottiswoode has made them two different places. Acco. of Religious Houses, 519-29. (c) Books of the Collector of the Thirds. (d) Act 2 of the 16 Pari... James VI. (e) His charter of foundation, which was dated on the 20th of June, 1493, was confirmed by Andrew, the abbot of Newbotle, as the Pope's delegate. Lord Seton built for his collegiate church a new sacristry, which was covered with stone. The founder died in 1507, and was buried near the high altar of his college church. Spottiswoode, 528 ; Sir Richard Maitland's MS. History of the Seton family. (/) Collector's Books of the Thirds. (g) Old Sir Richard Maitland, who lived at the time of those terrible events, testifies the facts in his MS. Hist, of the Seton family. (h) Spottiswoode, 479. 514 An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV. — Haddingtonshire. sonages who dignified this shire by their residence, and improved it by their practices. The Reformation changed the ecclesiastical regimen of East-Lothian with- out adding much to its morals. Of old, Haddington was the seat of a deanery as well as the place of synodical meetings of the diocese. Since that epoch it has become the seat of a presbytery, which comprehends fifteen of the East-Lothian parishes. The town obviously gave its name to the parish, to the presbytery, and to the shire ; and the town derived its appellation from being the tun, or village of a Saxon settler called Haden, who sat down here, on the bank of the Tyne, after the Scoto- Saxon period began. The origin of the parish is lost in the obscurities of the preceding age. It was already a parish at the accession of David I. to the throne, and during those times it was of much larger extent than at present. It comprehended a considerable part of Athel- staneford parish till the year 1674, and a large part of Gladsmuir parish till 1692. The ancient church of Haddington -shire was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, who was the common patroness of similar establishments in this district. About the year 1134, David I. granted to the church of St. Andrew of Cilrimont, or priory of St Andrews, in perpetual alms, the church of St. Mary at Had- dington, with its chapels, lands, tithes, and other dues, with every thing belonging to it within the same parish ({). He soon after gave to the church of St. Mary at Haddington, and to the priory of St. Andrews, the lands of Clerkton, accord- ing to their true boundaries, on both sides of the Tyne above the town, as the limits had been perambulated ; and he also conferred on those churches a toft in Haddington, near the church, with the tithes, as well of the mills as of other objects within the whole parish (k). All those grants were confirmed by David's grandsons, Malcolm IV. and William. They were also confirmed by their diocesans, the successive bishops of St. Andrews. Under all those confirmations, the church of Haddington remained annexed to the priory of St. Andrews, and was served by a vicar, till the Reformation introduced here a very different system. In 1245, a convention, which was entered into within the church of Lauder, was made between the prior and convent of St. Andrews, and the master and monks of Haddington, for settling lasting disputes with re- gard to tithes and other ecclesiastical dues (I). In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Haddington was rated at 120 marks, while the chapel of St. Laurence, which belonged to it as the mother church, was rated at five marks. The patronage (i) Diplom. Scotiae, pi. xvi. (I) Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 119. (&) Id., xvi. Sect. VIII. — Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 515 of the church belonged to the prior of St. Andrews, and the patronage of the chapel to the nuns of Haddington. There was also a chapel in Haddington which was dedicated to St. Catherine. In the same neighbourhood there were also two chapels belonging to the same church ; the one was dedicated to St. John, w 7 hich probably belonged to the Knights Templars ; and the other to St. Kentigern ; and there was a chapel within the barony of Penstoun, which formed the western extremity of Haddington parish till 1695, when it was annexed to Gladsmuir parish. All those chapels were founded by the piety of ages, which have been long considered as superstitious by those who do less and talk more. At the Reformation the patronage of the church of Haddington belonged, under those grants and confirmations, to James Stewart, the prior of St. Andrews, the bastard brother and minister of Mary Stewart, the well-known Earl of Murray. When the Earl of Morton became ruler of Scotland in the quick succession of regents, he acquired the vast estates of the priory of St. Andrews, by appointing a nominal prior and taking the property to himself. Of the corruption, which had been recently reformed in some measure by his agency, there was nothing more corrupt than this appropriation of the priory by the regent Morton. When this guilty noble was executed for his participation in the murder of Darnley, the temporalities of the priory became forfeited to the king. J ames VI. now converted the whole into a temporal lordship, for his cousin and favourite, Esme. Duke of Lennox ; and his son, Ludovic, sold the patronage of the church of Haddington, with its tithes, both parsonage and vicarage, in 1615, to Thomas, the first Earl of Haddington, who obtained, from the same king in 1620, a confirmation of his purchase ; and the Earl of Haddington, at the beginning of the 18th century, sold that patronage, with his property in Haddington parish, to Charles, the first Earl of Hopetoun. In this family the patronage of Haddington, which was thus acquired, still continues. At the end of thirty years, after the Refor- mation, the church of Haddington, the chapel of St. Martin, and the church of Athelstaneford, were all served by one person (m). This paucity of preachers, owing to the penury of provision in tlie reformed church, continued till 1602. George Grier was now ordained the minister of St. Martin's chapel, and he was the last who officiated in this ancient fane (n). The church of Haddington was appointed, in 1633, one of the twelve prebends of the chapter of Edin- burgh (o). At an episcopal visitation in 1635, it was agreed by the bishop of (m) This fact appears from the Presbytery Records, which are preserved as far back as 1592. (n) Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 67. (o) Charter of Erection. 51G An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV. — Haddingtonshire. the diocese of Edinburgh, and the magistrates of Haddington, that a second minister had become necessary for the church of Haddington ; and of con- sequence, William Trent was collated to this charge, when his stipend was settled at 600 marks, payable by the magistrates of the town. They now claimed the patronage of this second minister, whom they had thus established and paid. But this pretension was contested in 1680 by the Earl of Hadding- ton, the patron of the church. The College of Justice declared in favour of the patron's right ; and this decision was afterward regarded as a precedent, which, on an appeal to the House of Peers, was affirmed as law and right (p). [The Abbey Church, which was repaired in 1811, has two charges, with 1156 communicants; stipends, each £444. There is also St. John's Chapel of Ease, erected in 1838. Free St. John's has 381 members ; two U. P. churches have together 360 members ; an Episcopal Chapel (built in 1770), has 94 com- municants. There is also the Roman Catholic Chapel of St. Mary's.] The parish of Athelstaneford, whatever Gaelic etymologists may say, derived its name, probably, from a place that owed its appellation to some person. To Athelstan, the Anglo-Saxon conqueror who over-ran Lothian in 934 A.D., is attributed this name (q). Camden contradicts this probability by saying that an English commander, called Athelstan, was killed here in 815 A. D. ; and Buchanan romances about a Danish chief who was slain here by the Picts; but neither Camden nor Buchanan assigns any proof for his assertion (r). The village and church of Athelstaneford stand on a road, near a passage over a rivulet, which is called Cogtal-burn. The name of the ford on this stream was very early vulgarized to Elstanford, and in the Compositio, 1245, it was called with the Saxon aspirate Helstanfoord (s). The countess Ada appears to have possessed the manor of Athelstaneford as a part of her jointure. When she founded the convent of nuns near Haddington, she granted to it the church of Athelstaneford, with the tithes and other ecclesiastical dues belonging to the (^?) Trans. Soc. Antiq. Edin., 67. For more recent particulars of this parish, see the Stat. Acco. of it, and the Tabular State annexed. [Also Martine's Burgh of Haddington, 1883, and Miller's Lamp of Lothian, 1844.] (q) Sax. Chron., Ill ; Florence, 349 : Malmsbury, f. 27 ; Whit. Cathedral of Cornwall, 6. A Gaelic etymologist would state his sentiments thus : There is at the place a rivulet, which is passed by a ford, that conducts the passenger to the village by a narrow, deep, and stony path. In the Gaelic speech, Atli-ail means a Stoneford ; whence may be inferred that the original name is a redundant pleonastn. The Saxon settlers, finding the Ath-ail already in existence, superadded Stoneford, which is merely a translation of the Gaelic appellation. (?•) In a charter of David I., Diplom. Scotiai, pi. xiv., Ethelstan is a witness ; and it is unnecessary, by refinement, to search in the obscurities of elder times for what may be found in recent charters. [See also Skene's Celtic Scotland, v. 1, p. 299.] (s) In the 12th century there was a place in Teviotdale named Elstane's-halch. Chart. Mel., 25. Sect, VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 517 same church (t). The liberality of Ada was confirmed by several bishops of St. Andrews. The church of Athelstaneford, with its pertinents, continued to belong to the nuns of Haddington till the Reformation changed the ancient regimen. As the parish of Athelstanford was of old but small, the church was not of great value. In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Elstaneford was rated only at ten marks. In 1674, this parish was greatly enlarged by annexations from the parishes of Haddington and of Prestonkirk (u). A new church and manse were built in the enlarged parish of Athelstanford, about 1784 (x). [The present parish church was erected in 1868. Communicants, 300; stipend, £342.] The parish of North-Berwick derived its name from the town ; and the village obtained its Saxon appellation from the same source, as the Berwick- upon-Tweed, which, in the charters of the 14th, 13th, and 12th centuries, is distinguished as South-Berwick, while the more northern town was usually called North- Berwick. In those charters, and in the Northumbrian topography, the common orthography of the name is i?ar-wick, or Barewich, — the bare, or naked village or castle»; the only difficulty being to discover whether the Saxon wic was first applied, in fact, to a castle or a village. The probability is, that it was to the village, before any castle existed on the site of North-Ber- wick, which stands on the naked shore of the Forth ; being a small, narrow pro- montory projecting from the town into the firth. Before the reign of David I., a church and parish existed here, from a period of such obscurity as not to be easily penetrated. Under that monarch, the manor of North-Berwick belonged to Duncan, the Earl of Fife, who died in 1154. He founded here, as we have seen, a convent for Cistercian nuns, to whom he granted the church of North-Berwick, with its tithes and pertinents. The church of North- Berwick was dedicated to St. Andrew ; and there was an altar in it which was erected to the Virgin Mary (?/). This church seems to have been of consider- able value. It was valued in the ancient Taxatio at 60 marks. It remained (<) After Ada's death, in 1178, the manor of Athelstaneford was granted by her son, William the Lion, to John de Montfort, who, as dominus de Elstaneford, granted to the monks of Newbotle a stone of wax yearly. Chart. Newbotle, 216. The lands of Elstaneford, as they were forfeited in the succession war, were granted by Robert I. to Richard Hereis. Roberts. Index, 11. The same lands appear to have again fallen to Robert III., who granted them to John Dolas. Ib., 141. («) Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 41 ; Stat. Ace, x., 169. (x) Id. For other particulars of this parish, see the Stat. Acco., x., 161, and the Tabular State annexed. ill) Agnes Fawlaw, the wife of Robert Lauder of the Bass, with the consent of her husband, granted an annuity of 10 marks from a tenement in Edinburgh, and five marks from a tenement in Leith, for supporting a chaplain to officiate at the Virgin Mary's altar in St. Andrew's Kirk at North Berwick : and this grant of the pious Agnes was confirmed by James IV. in 1491. MS. Donations, 41. 4 3 W 518 An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV. — Haddingtonshire. in the patronage of the nuns of North-Berwick till the Reformation swept such establishments away. Meantime, the manor of North-Berwick changed its lords in some measure with the changes of the times. It continued in the ancient family of Fife till the accession of Robert II., the first of the Stewarts. Isabel, Countess of Fife, the last of her race, resigned this manor to Robert Duke of Albany, who seems to have transferred it to William Earl Douglas. On the forfeiture of James Earl of Douglas in 1455, this manor was granted with most of his forfeiture to his heir-male George Earl of Angus, and in this family it long continued with Tantallon castle, the seat of their power, and the safeguard of their crimes. There is an act of the parliament, 1597, "anent certain kirks of North-Berwick" (y). The site of the Cistercian nunnery, with much of the property belonging to it, were granted by James VI. to Alexander Home of North-Berwick. But whether he acquired the advowson of the parish church is uncertain, as his family failed, and the property of it was transferred to other owners. A ratification, indeed, was passed in the parliament of 1640, to Sir William Dick, of his right to the lands and tithes of North-Berwick barony (z). The patronage of the parish church of North-Berwick with the site of the nunnery and the lands that belonged to it were afterward acquired by Hew Dalrymple, who became president of the College of Justice in 1698, and purchased from the Marquis of Douglas, the representative of the Earls of Angus, the remainder of the manor of North-Berwick, which was now called Tantallon, from the castle. After all those transmissions, the property of the whole now belongs to Sir Hew Dalrymple of North-Berwick (a). [The present parish church was erected in 1882. Communicants, 581 : stipend £511. A Free Church erected in 1844 has 163 members. A TIP. Church (1872) has 223 members. St. Baldred's Episcopal Chapel (1859-63) has 60 communicants. There is also a Roman Catholic Chapel erected in 1879.] The ancient name of Dirlton parish was Golyn ; and the old church stood at the village of Gullane till the year 1612, when it was removed to Dirlton by act of Parliament. Golyn derives its name from the British Go-lyn, signifying a little lake; and in fact, there is still a pond here within the village of Gullane. The church of Gullane, which was dedicated to St. Andrews, is very ancient. Yet the epoch of St. Andrew's patronage is only the ninth century ; and from this circumstance we may infer how old the numerous churches are in this shire, which were dedicated to the renowned protector of the Scottish people. The Cistercian nuns whom David I. brought to South-Berwick appear to have acquired a right to some of the tithes and other ecclesiastical dues of the church (y) Unprinted Act, 15th Pari. James VI. (z) Unprinted Act, 2nd Pari. Charles I. (a) For other particulars, the curious reader may consult the Stat. Acco. and the Tabular State subjoined. [Also Ferrier's North Berwick, 1871.] Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History. "] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 519 of Gullane (b). The Anglo-Norman family of De Vallibus obtained a grant, during the 12th century, of the manors of Gullane and Dirlton, with a part of the lands of Fenton, which formed a great portion of this parish. During the reign of William the Lion, William de Vaus granted to the church of Gullane the meadow that was adjacent to the church (c). He soon after, however, transferred to the monks ol Dryburgh the church of Gullane, with its tithes and other pertinents, reserving the right of his son, William de Vaus, to the rectory of Gullane during his life (cZ). This grant was confirmed by the diocesan, and by the Pope's legate in Scotland (e). In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Gullane was rated at not less than 80 marks. After the death of William de Vallibus, the rector of Gullane, during the reign of Alexander II. a vicar was appointed by the monks of Dryburgh to serve the cure. In 1268, there was assigned to the vicar of Gullane a stipend of 12 marks (f). In Bagi- mont's Roll, the vicarage of Gullane was rated at £4. In this parish there were of old no fewer than three chapels which were subordinate to the church. As early as the reign of William there was a chapel which was dedicated to St. Nicolas, on Fidra Isle, near the shore of Elbotle, and the ruins whereof still remain (positura de Bothans. Beliq. Divi. Andreae. The 18th of January was the festival of Bothan, as we know from Dempster. As late as 1521, Eobert Wetherstone, the provost of Bothans, granted to a chaplain in the parish church of Haddington several parcels of land in Mortmain. MS. Extracts from the Records. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 535 corruptions (T). The patronage of the church has belonged to the lords of the manor of Yestred from the 12th century to the present (m). This manor was granted by William the Lion, to Hugh Gifford. the son of Hugh, an English gentleman who settled in Lothian under David I. From that eai'ly age to the present Yester has remained with his descendants. Hugh Gifford of Yester, who lived under David II. and Robert II., had only four daughters to inherit his large estates ; and J ohanna, the eldest, marrying Sir William Hay of Locherwart, transferred the manor , with the patronage of the church, to him and their conjoint posterity. Thus arose the family of Yester and Locherwart, who obtained the titles of Lord Yester in 1488, Earl of Tweeddale in 1646, and Marquis of Tweeddale in 1694. Sir William Hay, in 1421, converted the church of St. Bothan into a collegiate form, consisting of a provost, six prebendaries, and two singing boys, who enjoyed the lands, tithes, and other church revenues of the parish till the Reformation introduced a very different system. The church now lost its collegiate form ; the name of Saint Bothan was no longer reverenced, and the ancient name of Yester, which was not understood, became again the Cambro-British name of the parish. A new parish church and manse were built in 1708, in a less central place, at the village of Gifford ; and the ancient church of St. Bothan, with its adjacent kirk-town, were resigned to the annihilation of time and chance. From the village, where the modern church stands, the parish is now popularly called Gifford, while the legal name is Yester (n). There was of old, at Duncanlaw, in the north-east corner of Yester parish, a chapel, which was dedicated to Saint Nicholas, which has also been swept away by modern improvements (o). [The parish church has 306 communicants; stipend £455. A Free church erected in 1880 has 154 members]. The united parish of Garvald and Barra comprehends the separate parishes of the same names. Garvald derived its Celtic appellation from the rivulet, which is called Garvald water, as it drains the parish, and courses by the church and village of Garvald. Garw-ald in the British, and Garv-ald (I) See Richard's Welsh Diet. (m) The church of St. Bothan appears to have been but of middling value, for it was rated in the ancient Taxatio at 30 marks. (h) The village of Gifford did not exist when Pont made his map of the Lothians during the reign of Charles I. It has since arisen on the east bank of Gifford Water, in the lower end of the parish, and now contains more than 400 people. For other particulars, see the Stat. Acco., i., 342, and the Tabular State annexed. (o) Robert HI. gave to the chapel of St. Nicholas, at Duncanlaw, some lands which had belonged to John Straton. Roberts. Index, 145. Duncanlaw belonged to the Giffords of old. Ib., 16. 53G An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV. — Haddingtonshire. [Garbh-ald] in the Gaelic, signify the rough rivulet, which is very descriptive of a mountain torrent which floods its banks and spreads gravel over the adjacent grounds ; and there are other streams of similar qualities in North- Britain, which have obtained the same name of Garv-ald ; and several have retained their ancient names in the more idiomatical form of Alcl-garv. The church of Garvald, with its pertinents, and a carucate of land adjacent, were granted to the Cistercian nuns, which the Countess Ada settled near Haddington during the reign of Malcolm IV. They established a grange near the church, and formed a village, which thus obtained the name of Nun-raw. They also acquired the lands of Slade and Snowdoun, forming together almost the whole parish. They obtained, in May 1359, from their diocesan, William the bishop of St. Andrews, a confirmation of all their spiritual rights as they had lost their title-deeds during the revolutionary war of David II. ; and the bishop's charter was confirmed by James II., in August 1458 (p). The church of Garvald and the greatest part of the parish remained with those opulent nuns till the Reformation delivered the whole to less beneficent hands. As the parish was not populous of old, the church was merely rated in the ancient Taxatio at 15 marks. The name of Barra is obviously Celtic. In the Gaelic, Bar signifies a height, a summit, and Ra' a fortlet, a strength of any kind. The old church, mansion, and village of Barra, stand on the summit of a ridge, which slopes to the south and north. In the British speech, Barrau, the plural of Bar, signifies a bush, a bunch, a tuft (q). The Celtic name may have been originally imposed by the British, and continued by the Gaelic settlers of subsequent times, from observing the fitness of the name to the thing signified. In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Barra was rated at 25 marks, which implies more population and improvement than those of Garvald. William, the parson of Barra, swore fealty to Edward I. on the 29th of August 1296, and obtained a return of his rights (r). In the 12th and 13th centuries, the patronage of the church of Barra belonged to the lords of the manor. At the beginning of the 13th century, Thomas de Morham, who possessed both the adjoining manors of Barra and Morham, granted to the monks of Holy- roodhouse the patronage of the church of Barra, with the pertinents. This grant was confirmed by his heiress, Euphemia, who married Sir John GifFord of Yester, and who carried the manors of Morham and Barra into the family of Gifford ; and the son and heir of Euphemia, respecting her liberality, con- (p) MS. Monast. Scotise, 11. (r) Prynne, iii., 657 ; Kym., ii., 725. (q) Owen's Diet., in vo. Bar. Sect. VIII. .— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NOETH-BRITAIN. 537 firmed her grant (s). The monks of Holyroodhouse enjoyed the patronage and the pertinents of the church of Barra till the Reformation introduced a different system, though the commendator for some time enjoyed the rights of the church of Barra without performing the duties. The church of Barra, and all its rights, were granted to the newly erected bishopric of Edinbur-gh in 1633. When this establishment fell, amidst the revolutions of subsequent times, the Hays of Yester and Tweeddale, who represented the ancient GifTbrds and Morhams, acquired the jmtronage of the church of Barra. The parishes of Garvald and Barra were united in 1702 ; and the patronage of the con- joined churches belongs jointly to the King and the Marquis of Tweeddale, who enjoyed the advowsons of the separate parishes. The minister was required, by the annexation, to preach alternately in the two parish churches, till the year 1744, when the church of Barra became quite unfit for divine service; and the church of Garvald has been made, by reparation, to serve every purpose of an extensive parish, though not without some inconvenience (t). [The parish church was enlarged in 1829. Communicants, 251 ; stipend, £276. A Free Church has 130 members.] Morham parish, which is the smallest in Haddingtonshire, derived its name from the Saxon Mor-ham, the dwelling; on the moor. Till recent times the parish was appropriately called Morham-?no0?\ After all that improvement has gained from the waste, enough remains to justify the ancient appellation of Moor-ham. The church of Morham is old, and it was valued in the ancient Taxatio at 20 marks, which imply more people and products than were naturally to have been expected from the sterility of the soil. The rectory of Morham was rated in Bagimont's Roll at £4. The patronage of the church has always belonged to the lord of the manor. Under William the Lion, this manor was enjoyed by a family bearing the name of Mdlherb, who assumed from the lands the more known name of Morham (u). The Morhams continued to enjoy it throughout the 13th century (x). The family of Sir Thomas Morham ended in a female heir, Euphemia, who carried the manor and the patronage of the church to Sir John Gifford (y). From his family the pro- perty went, by another female transmission, to the Hays of Locherwai't, and in recent times the lands of Morham, with the patronage of the church, were acquired by the Dalrymples of Hailes ; and they belonged to the late Sir David (s) Sir James Dalrymple's Coll., xxxviii. (<) For other particulars, the more curious reader may consult the Stat. Acco., xiii., 353, and the Tabular State subjoined. (w) Chart. Newbotle. (x) lb., 90-113. (y) Sir James Dalrymple's Coll., xxxviii. The ancient fortalice of Morham stood on an eminence near the church, whereof not a vestige remains. Stat. Acco., ii., 334. 538 An ACCOUNT [Cli. IV. — Haddingtonshire. Dairy m pie, Lord Hailes, whose daughter now enjoys them (z). [The parish church was erected in 1724. Communicants, 87; stipend, £234.] This much, then, with regard to the several parishes in the presbytery of Haddington. The presbytery of Dunbar will be found to comprehend eight parishes in Haddingtonshire, and one in Berwickshire. The parish of Dunbab took its Celtic name from the town ; and the town obtained its designation from the fortlet on the rock, which at this place projects into the sea. Dun-bar in the British, and Dun-bar in the Gaelic, signify the fort on the height, top, or extremity ; but ought not to be rendered according to the late Lord Hailes' translation, into the English top-cliff. The parish of Dunbar was of old the most valuable of any in the deanery of Lothian, or indeed within the diocese of St. Andrews. Besides the present parish, it contained the parochial districts of Whittinghame, Stenton, and Spott, which were ancient chapelries, that were subordinate to the mother church at Dunbar. In the ancient Taxatio the church of Dunbar, with the chapel of Whittinghame, were valued at ISO marks, which is a greater valuation than any other church in Scotland could bear. In this most extensive parish there were of old no fewer than six chapels, which were all subordinate, according to the ecclesiastical system of those times, to the mother church (a). From the earliest times of which we have any accurate account, the Earls of Dunbar were proprietors of the whole parish, and patrons of the parish and the subordinate chapels (b). In 1342, Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, converted the parochial church into a collegiate form ; and the eight prebends which he established were the chapelries of Whitting- hame, Spott, Stenton, Penshiel, and Hetherwick, within this parish, with Duns and Chirnside in Berwickshire. Soon after that establishment, several of those chapelries, Spott, Stenton, and Hetherwick, were converted into parish churches, independent of the mother church, yet dependent as prebends of the college. Spott and Stenton still continue separate parishes. When Hetherwick was made a distinct parish it was called Belton, being the name of two villages in the vicinity of Hetherwick, as well as the estate, and the parish of Belton (z) For more particulars, the more curious reader may consult the Stat. Acco., ii., and the Tabular State subjoined. (a) (1) There was a chapel at Hederwick or Belton, in the western corner of the present parish. (2) There was a chapel at Pinkerton, in the south-east of this parish. (3) There was a chapel at Whittinghame, in the lowlands of Whittinghame, in the present parish of Whittinghame. (4) There was a chapel at Penshiel, in the Lammermuir. (5) There was a chapel at Stenton. (6) And there was a chapel at Spott. (b) Adam, the parson of Dunbar, died in 1179. Chron. Melrose. On the 26th of April 1209, Eandulph, " sacerdos de Dunbar," accepted the cure of Eccles. Id. Sect, VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 539 comprehended the western extremity of the present parish of Dunbar. It con- tinued a separate parish till the Reformation, when it was re-annexed to Dunbar. In Bagimont's Roll the rectory of Dunbar was rated at £8, and the rectory of Belton at £4. Dunbar and Belton appear as separate rectories in the Tax-Roll of the archbishopric, 1547. The patronage of the church of Dunbar fell to the king, with the forfeiture of the earldom of March, in January 1434-5 (c). During the reign of James III., the earldom of Dunbar, with the patronage of the church, were enjoyed by the traitorous Duke of Albany ; and again fell to the king, on the forfeiture of this unworthy brother, in 1483. The church of Dunbar ceased to be collegiate at the Reformation. When the bishopric of Edinburgh was formed in 1633, the parson of Dunbar was con- stituted one of its prebendaries. Andrew Wood was removed from Spott to Dunbar soon after the Restoration; and was thence promoted, in 1676, to the bishopric of the Isles, with which he held, by dispensation, the rectory of Dunbar. In 1680 he was translated to the see of Caithness, which he ruled till his episcopate was abolished at the Revolution of 1689 ; and he died at Dunbar in 1695, at the venerable age of seventy-six (d). [The parish church, erected in 1819-21, has 626 communicants; stipend, £402. A quoad sacra church at Belhaven has 215 communicants. A Free Church has 285 members. A U.P. Church has 291 members. There are also a Wesleyan Methodist chapel, an Episcopal chapel of 1876, and a Roman Catholic chapel.] The name of the parish of Spot has always been written in this form, except that it has been sometimes spelt Spott. There are several places of the same name in England, as well as in Scotland. They seem all to have derived their several names from the English Spot, a particular place, a small piece of ground. The church and hamlet of Spot stand in a confined space upon a peninsula, between two ravines, through which run two rivulets, which unite their streams at a little distance below. It is a sheltered, warm spot. This church was of old a chapel of Dunbar, as we have seen. The patronage belonged to the Earl of Dunbar and March ; and when he was attainted, in January 1434-5, the advowson fell to the crown. In Bagimont's Roll the rectory of Spott was rated at £5 6s. 8d. It appears in the Tax-Roll of St. Andrews, 1547. In September 1528, Robert Galbraith, the rector of Spott, appeared in parliament as advocate for Queen Margaret, on the forfeiture of the Earl of Angus (e). In 1532 he was at the head of the ten advocates who were chosen as general procurators on the establishment of the Court of Session (f). In 1537 he was appointed a senator of the College of Justice. In February 1540-1 he appeared in parliament as one of the king's council (g) ; (c) Pari. Rec, 72. (d) For other particulars, the curious reader may consult the Stat. Ace, v., and the Tabular State subjoined. (e) Pari. Rec, 582. (/) Black Acts, fol. cxvi. (ointed one of the senators of the College of Justice, till he died about the year 1547. Both Aldham and Scougal continued with the archbishop till the year 1630 (u). This parish, from its paucity of people, was of little value, and was of course only estimated in the ancient Taxatio at six marks. William, the parson of Aldham, swore fealty to Edward I. at Ber- wick, on the 28th of August 1296, and received in return the restitution of his property (x). The ruins of the ancient church of Aldham on the sea-cliff were (p) Pari. Eec, 318. The guilty bishop died on the 14th of January 1514-15, aged 76, Innes's MS. Chronology. (q) On the 27th June, 1565, a complaint was made to the General Assembly by the parishioners of Tyningharne, who paid their tithes to the new college of St. Andrews, and yet had no preaching or administration of the sacraments. Mr. John Douglas, the rector of the university and master of the new college, promised to satisfy the said complaints, and that the kirk should not be again troubled with such a complaint. Keith's Hist., 544. (?■) Eeliq. Divi. And., 118. (s) Dougl. Peer., 318. (t) In England there are several places of the same name. In Suffolk there is the parish of Oldham. («) Reliq. Divi. Andreae, 120. ( x ) Prynne, iii., 663 ; Eym., ii., 724. Sect. VIIL— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] Of NOETH-BRITAIN. 547 apparent in 1770, but were soon after removed for some domestic purpose. At Scougal, about a mile south-east of Aldhame, there was of old a chapel, the ruins whereof still remain in proof of the piety of the Scougals. The parish of Hamer or Whitekirk was anciently called Hamer, from the kirk-town. Ham-er, in the Saxon, signifies the greater ham. It may have obtained this appellation in contradistinction to Aldhame, which stood only two miles on the northward. The parish of Hamer was more populous than Aldhame, though not so populous as Tyninghame. In the ancient Taxatio the church of Hamer was valued only at 10 marks, Both the church and manor of Hamer were granted during the 12th century, to the monks of Holy rood- house, though by whom cannot now be ascertained. They retained both till the Reformation. The church of Hamer, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, from the whiteness of its appearance, was early called Whitekirk ; and at length became, in the popular tradition, the name of the village and parish. In 1356, when Edward III. invaded East-Lothian, as he was attended by shipping, the sailors entered the church of our Lady in the barony of Hamer, and spoiled her of her ornaments. In relating this outrage, Fordun forgets not to tell how the Virgin raised such a storm as made the sailors wish that they had not offended her by their spoliation (y). The canons of Holyrood, who resided here for the service of the Virgin, seem to have been unable to pre- vent or to punish the profanity of the seamen (z). We may learn, however, from this intimation that the monks usually officiated at those churches which belonged to the religious houses. The church of our Lady at White- kirk became a place of frequent pilgrimage (a). The church and lands and barony of Auld- Hamer or Whitekirk, with all that had pertained to the canons- of Holyrood of this ancient establishment, were cast into the form of a regality, and granted in 1633 to the bishop of Edinburgh and his successors. On the suppression of the bishopric in 1689, the patronage of Whitekirk devolved on the king. During the 17th century the parish of Whitekirk was augmented by the annexation of the little parish of Aldhame ; and in 1761, to this united parish was annexed the adjoining parish of Tyninghame. The present parish thus comprehends the ancient scires of Tyninghame, Aldhame, and Hamer, or Whitekirk (6). The churches of Tyninghame and of Aldhame have been (y) Ford., 1. xiv., c. 13-14. (z) lb., ii., 355. (a) See Hay's MS. Acco. of Religious Establishments in the Advocate's Lib., W. 2. 2. (b) Simeon of Durham records, in 854 a.d., the parishes of Aldhame and Tyninghame as then belonging to the bishopric of Lindisfarne. Twisden, 139. 548 An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV. — Haddingtonshire. demolished, and Whitekirk is now the only place of worship for the parishioners of the three parishes conjoined (c). The patronage of this united parish belongs, by turns, to the king in right of Whitekirk, and the Earl of Haddington in virtue of Tyninghanie (d). [The communicants of the Church of Scotland in this parish number 353. The stipend is £430.] The village of Innerwick derived its name from the Saxon Inner-wic, signify- ing an interior dwelling or hamlet. While there are two villages on the shore, Skateraw and Thorntonloch, within this parish, the village of Innerwick stands inland a mile and a quarter. To such circumstances and location it no doubt owes its equivocal appellation. There appears not any water near the village of Innerwick to which the Gaelic Inver could be fitly applied, and moreover, ivic being a Saxon term either for a castle or a hamlet, and not the name of a stream, could not analogically be coupled with the Gaelic Inver, which is indeed corrupted by colloquial use to Inner (e). In many charters of the 12th and 13th centuries the name of this place is written Innerwic and Ennerwic. In more modern writings it is uniformly spelt Inner- wick, which is adopted by the minister of the parish. The extensive manor of Innerwick was granted by David I. to Walter, the son of Alan, the Jirst Steiva?'t, and David's grant was confirmed by Malcolm IV. in 1157. Various English vassals settled within the manor of Innerwick {/). His descendants enjoyed the superiority of this manor even down to recent times. Walter, the son of Alan, granted to his favourite monks of Paisley, at the epoch of their establishment, the church of Innerwick with its pertinents, a carucate of land between the church and the sea, with the mill of Innerwick (g). Mal- colm IV. confirmed this foundation charter (h). The church of Innerwick was (c) The ancient church of Tyninghanie stood a quarter of a mile below the village, on the northern side of the Tyne, in a beautiful field, which has a gentle slope to the water's edge, whence the church was distant 300 yards. MS. Relation of the Rev. Dr. Carfrae of Dunbar. ((Z) The curious reader will find little addition to the curious detail above, in the Stat. Acco., xvii., 574 ; yet some important facts will be found in the Tabular State subjoined. [See also Ritchie's Churches of St. Baldred.] (e) In, saith Somner, in, intro, intus, in, within, inwardly. In the Saxon, in is a very frequent prefix. See Somner : Er, he adds, " Terminatio comparativorum apud Anglo-Saxones ; ut est, superlativorum." Thus in-er, among the Anglo-Saxons, means more than within. Neither Bailey nor Johnson has sufficiently adverted to this exposition of Somner. (/) Caledonia, i., 576-7 ; Chart. Paisley and Kelso. (g) Chart. Paisley, 7-9. (A) lb., 8. William the Lion confirmed it. Ib., 10 ; and Alan, the son of Walter, added his con- firmation. Ib., 35. It was confirmed by Richard, the bishop of St. Andrews, the diocesan, who allowed the monks to enjoy the church of Innerwick to their proper use. Ib., 14 ; and to all those confirmations Pope Alexander III. added two bulls of recognition. Ib., 11-12. Sect. VIII. — Its Ecclesiastical History.} Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 549 not very rich. It was valued in the ancient Taxatio at only 30 marks. The cure was served by a vicar, who was appointed by the monks. William, who ruled the see of St. Andrews from 1202 to 1233, confirmed to the monks of Paisley their church of Innerwick, with the pertinents, to their proper use ; and by his episcopal authority he ordained that the vicar should have the altarages with some land on the western side of the cemetery, rendering yearly to the monks seven marks of money as a pension (i). The vicar, in fact, enjoyed a messuage and garden near the burying-ground, and an acre of ground on its northern side (k). In Bagimont's Roll, the vicarage was rated at £3 6s. 8d. (/). Thomas de Fulcon, the vicar, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick on the 28th of August 1296 (m) ; and no doubt obtained a restoration of his rights. Of old, there was within this parish a chapel dedicated to St. Dennis, the ruins whereof are still standing on a small promontory in the northern corner of this maritime parish. The monks of Paisley continued to enjoy the church of Innerwick, till the Reformation introduced here a very different system. In the meantime, the manor of Innerwick was held by various vassals under the Stewart. The monks of Kelso obtained from that beneficent race, some lands and pastures within this manor (n). The second Walter, the Stewart, gave them liberty to erect a mill on their lands, within his manor ; and he renounced to them an annuity of twenty shillings and two pairs of boots, which they were wont to pay him for the fee-firm of certain pastures within the manor of Innerwick (o). A remarkable change at length arrived. The barony, and indeed the whole possessions of the Stewart of Scotland were erected by Robert III. into a free regality, on the 10th of December 1404, as a principality for the eldest son of the Scottish kings (jp). When Renfrew became a separate shire, the barony of Innerwick was annexed to it, as it was part of the stewartry, though it was actually situated within East-Lothian (q). Sir Peter Wedderburn of Gosford, who became a senator (i) Chart. Paisley, 15. (k) lb., 48. (I) Honorius III. added liis confirmation of the church and its pertinents, with a carucate of land, common of pasture within the manor, and the mill of Innerwick. Ib., 149. Honorius died in 1227. The monks also enjoyed the necessary accommodation for collecting their tithes. Ib., 48. In 1247. the monks obtained from David, the bishop of St. Andrews, and from John, the prior, a confirmation of the church of Innerwick, with all that belonged to it. Ib., 17-18. (m) Prynne, iii., 658. (n) Chart. Kelso, 247-60. (o) Ib., 246. (p) MS. Monast. Scotiee ; Carmichael's Tracts ; Casus Principis. (q) Between the years 1661 and 1669, Charles II., as Stewart of Scotland, granted many charters 4 4 A 550 An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV. — Haddingtonshire. of the College of Justice in 1668, obtained, in February 1670, to him and his heirs of entail, a grant of the rectory and vicarage-tithes of Innerwick. In July 1670, he obtained a grant to him and his heirs of entail, of the barony of Thornton, in the parish of Innerwick, and in January 1671, he obtained the barony itself of Innerwick (r). Some other changes seem to have taken place in the barony of Innerwick, as the patronage of the church belongs to a differ- ent family (s). [The parish church was erected in 1784. Communicants 240. Stipend £450. A Free Church has 80 members.] The name of the parish of Oldhamstocks is derived from the name of the kirk-town, and the ancient appellation of the village was usually written in charters, Aldhamstoc, and Aldhawstoh (t). These forms of the word are obviously derived from the Saxon Aldham, the old habitation, and Stoc, a place (u). Though OMiamstocks be the modern spelling, the popular name is Aldhamstohs. The final first appeared in the 16th century. The village and church stand upon the high bank of a rivulet, which is called at this place the Dean burn, though below it is named the Dunglass burn. The church of Oldhamstocks is ancient (x). In the ancient Taxatio it was rated at the high value of 60 marks. In Bagimont's Roll, it was rated at £10. This church never belonged to any monastery. The patronage of the rectory seems to have continued with the lord of the manor, who cannot be easily traced on so doubtful a frontier. Oldhamstocks appears not among the manors or baronies of Haddington constabulary, in the Tax-Roll of 1613, and from this circum- stance we may infer that it had been long merged in the barony of Dunglass. After various successions, the patronage of the church of Oldhamstocks became invested in Hunter of Thurston. On the 28th of August 1296, Thomas de to the vassals of the stewartry living upon the manor of Innerwick ; and their lands are described as lying in the constabulary of Haddington and sheriffdom of Edinburgh, but by annexation, within the sheriffwick of Renfrew. MS. Collection of Charters. (r) Douglas's Baron., 283, which quotes the charters in the Pub. Archives. (,s) The inquisitive reader will gain very little additional information as to this parish from the Stat. Acco., i., 121 ; but the Tabular State subjoined supplies some other notices. (t) Chart. Coldingham. (w) The Saxon Stoc, which means the same as Stow, a place, appears in the names of many places in England. In Spelman's Villare, there are twenty places named Stoke, and many compounds, as Stoke-hmy, Basingstoke, Stoke-vogis, Stoke-Severn, etc. (x) On the 17th of July 1127, Aldulph, the presbyter of Aldehamstoc, witnessed a charter of Eobert, the bishop of St. Andrews, to the monks of St. Cuthbert, at Coldingham. Smith's Bede, Appx. xx. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 551 Hunsingour, the parson of Oldhamstocks, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick, and was thereupon restored to his rectory (y). The subsequent history of this parish is obscure. It is recorded, as an existing rectory, in the Archbishop's Roll of 1547. Thomas Hepburn, the parson of Oldhamstocks, was admitted master of requests to Queen Mary, on the 7th of May 1557, two days after her inauspicious marriage with Bothwell (z). A detached part of the parish of Oldhamstocks, consisting of the lands of Butterdean, and lying on the northern side of the Eye water, is in Berwickshire (a). Thus much, then, with regard to the several parishes in the presbytery of Dunbar. [The parish church has 120 communicants ; stipend £409]. The parish of Ormiston is comprehended within the presbytery of Dalkeith. This parish derives its name from the kirk-town, which itself obtained its well- known appellation from some Saxon settler here, whose tun or dwelling it became. Orme was a common name during the 11th and 12th centuries, as we know from the chartularies ; but it is in vain to attempt the ascertaining of Orme, who actually gave his name to this hamlet. The church was dedicated to St. Giles, and it was granted, with its pertinents, to the hospital of Soltre, which was founded, as we have seen, by Malcolm IV. William the bishop of St. Andrews, in the 13th century, confirmed to the master and brothers of Soltre, the church of St. Giles at Ormiston, with its revenues, to their proper use (b). In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Ormiston was valued only at 12 marks. Mary of Guelder, the widowed queen of James II., when she founded the Trinity College at Edinburgh, in March 1462, annexed to it all the churches with their rights which belonged to the hospital of Soltre. She now assigned the revenues of the church of Ormiston, in four equal shares, to the prebendaries of Ormiston, Gilestoun, Hill, and Newlands, belonging to her college. This foundation of Mary of Guelder was confirmed, in April 1462, by James bishop of St. Andrews, the diocesan (c). The regent Murray intro- duced a less useful regimen. In 1567, he gave the Trinity church, with its revenues, to Sir Simon Preston, the provost of Edinburgh, who conferred the whole on the city ; and the magistrates purchased the right of Robert Pont, the provost of this collegiate establishment, in 1587 (d). The patronage of the (y) Prynne, iii. 662. (z) Keith's Hist. 387. On the 18th of August 1568, Thomas Hepburn, the same parson, -with others, were prosecuted in Parliament for aiding the queen in making her escape from Lochleven castle, and were, on the subsequent day, convicted of treason. Pari. Eec. 806-7-12. (a) See the Tabular State subjoined. (b) Chart. Soltre, 5. (c) Maitland's Hist. 208. (d) lb. 212. 552 An ACCOUNT [Ch. TV .—Haddingtonshire. church of Ormiston was meantime acquired by Cockburn, the lord of the manor, who certainly enjoyed it in after times. In 1747, John Cockburn of Ormiston, sold his estate, with the patronage of the church, to John Earl of Hopetoun, who now became proprietor of the whole parish (e). After the Reformation, the parish of Ormiston was considerably enlarged by the annexation of the estate of Peiston, which was disjoined from Pencaitland. Whether the fine village of Ormiston, standing on the northern side of the Tyne, was ever a baronial burgh is uncertain. In the middle of the broad street, which runs through the town from east to west, there is a cross, of the erection whereof tradition is silent ; but, " from its ancient appearance," saith the minister, " it is evidently a relic of popery (f) ;" and from this intimation we may infer that the inhabitants are better farmers than antiquaries (g). [The present Parish Church was erected in 1856. Communicants 240; stipend £340. A Free Church has 95 members]. Soutra and Fala make but one united parish ; the first lying in Haddington, and the latter in Edinburghshire, and both forming a part of the presbytery of Dalkeith. The church and hamlet of Soutra stand on a very conspicuous site on the summit of Soutra hill, which separates Lothian from Lauderdale, and sends its rivulets in opposite directions to the north and south. This hamlet, which was so long the active scene of charity, commands a most ex- tensive prospect ; a natural circumstance this, whence it obviously derived its descriptive name from the language of the British people : Swl-tre, — signifying in the Cambro-British language prospect-town (h). Here was an hospital established by Malcolm IV., as we have seen, to which was annexed a chapel ; and when this district was formed into a parish, the chapel was declared to be the parish church. This parish church does not appear in the ancient Taxatio, as it belonged to the master and brothers of this charitable foundation. Thus it continued till Mary of Guelder, in her widowhood, established, in 1462, her collegiate church near Edinburgh, as we have seen ; and the churches and lands belonging to the hospital of Soltre were perverted to a very different (e) Stat. Aeco. iv. 171. (/) ^ i s obviously the market-cross of a prosperous town in the midst of an agricultural country. The market-cross was an object of grant, in former times, with respect to policy more than to religion. (g) Of Ormiston, was Mr. Andrew Wight, the son of a very intelligent farmer, who was employed in 1773, by the trustees for the forfeited estates, to make the Agricultural Surveys, which were printed in 1778, and the following years. (h) See Owen's Diet, in vo. swl, a prospect. Tref or tre signifies a homestead, a hamlet. In the charters of the 12th, 13th and 14th centuries the name of this place is written Soltre. Sect. VIII. —Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 553 purpose. The church of Soltre was now served by a vicar (i). Other perver- sions followed. At length the Regent Murray gave the Trinity Church, with its pertinents, to the Provost of Edinburgh, who assigned the whole to the cor- poration ; and in this manner did the city acquire the patronage of the church of Soutra, with the property of the most part of the parish (Jc). It was afterward annexed to Fala, and from the period of the annexation the magistrates of Edinburgh and Sir John Dalrymple became the patrons, by turns, of the united parish (/). [The Parish Church has 138 communicants; stipend, £213. A U.P. Church has 106 members]. Thus much, then, with respect to the twenty-four parishes lying within the shire of Haddington. To the foregoing notices is immediately subjoined a Tabular State, as an useful supplement, which will, perhaps, be found both interesting in its facts and useful in its information. In making up the amount of the stipends of those several parishes the grain has been valued : the wheat at £1 5s. 9d. per boll; the barley at 19s. 4d. ; the oats at 14s. 9d. ; the pease at 14s. 6d. per boll; and the oatmeal at 16s. 8d. per boll of eight stone; being an average of the fiar prices of Haddington for the seven years ending in 1795, taking the medium of the three qualities of the grain (m). The stipends of mostly all the parishes in this shire have been augmented during recent times, when the prices of necessaries became higher and the value of money grew less (n). (i) In 1467. John Heriot, the vicar of Soutra, appears as a witness in several charters. Spottis- wood's Acco. of Eel. Houses, 536. In October 1479, on hearing a cause in Parliament, the Lords directed Eolly Lermonth and others to prove that Schir John Herriot, the vicar of Soutra, had power from Schir Edward of Bunkle, the provost of the Trinity College, beside Edinburgh, to lease the tithes of Fawnys. Pari. Bee., 257. (k) See Maitland's Edinburgh, 210-12. (I) The united parish is four miles long and four miles broad j is served by one minister, whose stipend in 1755 was £68 2s. 9d„ and in 1798, £77 13s. ; and the number of its parishioners in 1755 was 312 ; in 1791, 372 ; and in 1801, 354. (m) The allowance for communion elements and the value of the glebes are included, but not the value of the manses and office houses. The boll of barley and oats in Haddingtonshire is 6 bushels, 9 pints, 4.9 cubic inches, English standard measure, which is about 6 pints more than the Linlithgow boll. The boll of wheat and pease contains 4 bushels, 13 pints, 9.4 cubic inches, English standard measure, being nearly 3 per cent, above the Scottish standard measure. (n) The parishes, the stipends whereof have been thus augmented, are : Haddington, Athelstaneford, Aberlady, Gladsmuir, Pencaitland, Salton, Bolton, Humbie, Yester, Garvald and Barra, Dunbar, Spott, Stenton, Whittinghame, Prestonkirk, Innerwick, and Oldhamstocks. 554 An ACCOUNT The Tabulae State. Ch. IV. — Haddingtonshire. Churches. Extent Inhabitants. . . Stipends. Valuation. Parishes. in *Z £ -2 d Past Patrons. Acres. 1755. 1801. 1881. ^ h C> H « 1755. 1798. 1887-88. £ s. D. £ s. D. £ s. D. Haddington, - 12,113 3,975 4,049 5,660 3 1 2 1 '1 100 13 66 2 4 2 202 171 10 9 9 4 ■ The Earl of Hopetoun. 21,667 3 9 Athelstaneford, 5,0S0i 691 897 762 1 - — — 71 1 1 177 2 8 Kinloch of Gilmerton. 9,646 5 0 North Berwick, 5,372| 1,412 1,583 2,686 1 1 1 1 1 72 6 8 160 14 8 Dalrymple of North Berwick. 16,083 2 5 Dirleton, - in 7QC3 i 7nn 1, / uu 1, 1 ID l,OVJO i i i i i i IKJO Hi 215 3 c o Nisbet of Dirleton. 14,605 11 3 Aberlady, 4,928 739 875 1,000 79 9 11 168 13 9 The Earl of Wemyss. 9,563 11 0 Gladsmuir, 7.165J 1,415 1,470 1,747 1 _ — — — 74 7 6 164 19 9 The King and the Earl of Hopetoun. 13,651 3 2 Tranent, - 6,1761 2,459 3,046 5,198 1 1 1 — — 82 12 4 153 16 0 The King. 23,815 7 3 Prestonpans, - Cockeuzie, - ! 1,4291, 1,596 1,964 2,573 | 1 1 1 1 — — -! — ( 116 16 9 191 10 3 The Earl of Hyndford. 10,747 3 5 Pencaitland, 0,0/Oj 910 925 1,107 1 1 85 16 9 178 18 8 Hamilton of Pencaitland. 7,506 15 2 Salton, vol / 08 575 1 1 84 10 6 155 3 8 Fletcher of Salton. 5,538 6 8 Bolton, 3, 106| 359 252 337 1 66 13 9 124 12 0 Lord Blantyre. 3,701 13 6 Humbie, - o ^n*7 1 o, 1 97£ otO "OK i OO 907 1 1 77 4 5 141 0 10 The King and the Earl of Hopetoun. 8,625 3 0 Yester, 8,847| 1,091 929 924 1 1 69 6 0 153 7 6 The Marquis of Tweeddale. 8,349 17 10 Garvald, - 13,442 774 749 758 1 1 67 13 6 152 9 » The King and the Marquis of Tweed- dale. j 8,349 18 0 Morham, - 2,087* 245 254 209 69 10 9 137 13 6 Dalrymple of Hailes. 2,859 15 0 Dunbar, - Belhaven, 8,803 3,281 3,951 5,393 | 1 1 1 1 M - ) 98 1 10 223 4 9 The Duke of Roxburgh. 21,013 5 6 Spott, 7,582| 727 502 579 63 17 2 165 0 8 Hay of Spott. 6,041 7 0 Stenton, - 4,8183 631 620 594 56 11 8 121 15 0 Nisbet of Dirleton. 6,147 3 0 Whittinghame, 15,595 714 658 639 62 19 8 128 9 8 Hay of Drumellier. 7,158 1 4 Prestonkirk, - 7,088* 1,318 1,471 1,929 1 1 1 86 15 4 185 12 3 Dalrymple of Hailes. 15,865 18 0 Whitekirk, - 7, 153 i 968 925 1,051 123 11 4 155 6 6 The King and the Earl of Haddington. 10,555 2 2 Innerwick, 13,424| 941 846 777 I 1 83 3 4 169 15 3 Nisbet of Dirleton. 11,078 12 0 Oldhamstocks, 1,419| 504 466 568 83 1 1 123 6 5 Hunter of Thurston. 4,950 1 S Ormiston, 3.443J 810 766 1,026 1 1 78 13 3 180 12 4 The Earl of Hopetoun. 6,875 6 5 Totals, 28 15 6 4 3 Total, with Burghs and Eailways, - £318,350 14 0 Sect. I. — Its Name.] Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 555 CHAP V. Of Edinburghshire. § 1. Of its Narae.~\ THIS county obviously derived its appellation from the city of Edinburgh, the chief town of the shire, the metropolis of the king- dom. The name of the capital of North-Britain as it has puzzled all the antiquaries, has been proposed as an appropriate theme for scholastic disserta- tion. Meantime, it is certain, that the toivn derived its name from the castle, rather than the castle from the town, in whatever language they may be deno- minated. What appellation the British settlers gave to the rock, the Din of the first people, the Burgh of the Saxon intruders is not quite clear. Aneurin the Ottadinian poet, who wrote during the sixth century, speaks of Dinas Eidyn, the city of Eidyn ; but those poetical expressions must have been applied to some southern city on the Eden river, which was more familiar to Aneurin, who, as he had shared in the unsuccessful conflicts of those times, knew the localities of the affecting scenes. The ancient Triads of the British people notice CWr-Eidyn and Dmas-Eidyn ; yet, is it probable, that the Triads only copied the prior names of the place, and the anterior notice of the thing, from Aneurin. As it is certain that the Romans never had a post on the remarkable site of Edinburgh, it is equally obvious that they never gave it a name, however much conjecture has tortured the expression and the purpose of Ptolomy («). The oldest name that can now be traced up to this commodious rock is maydyn, to which was added, pleonastically, the English castle; and this appellation has been applied to several British fortlets in North and South Britain. We may, from all those circumstances, infer that the Gadeni people had a strength on this site, the scene of so many struggles, at the troublous epochs of the Roman abdication and of Saxon intrusion (b). " The Britons," saith Camden, (a) See Camden's Britannia ; Horsley, 364 ; Gordon's Iter. Septent., 180-83. (b) Wyntoun's Cronykyl, i., 54. That Celtic name certainly preceded the Saxon ; for the Castrum Puellarum appears, as its designation, in charters at the dawn of record. Now, this is a mere trans- lation of Maiden Castle, which is itself the mere vulgarism of the May-dyn of the British people. Baxter, who has an ingenious etymon always at hand, informs us that the Maiden Castle is the Maidun 556 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. " called it Castel Myned Agned, the Scots [Scoto-Saxons] the Maiden's castle, and the Virgin's castle, of certain young maidens of the rojaX blood, who were kept there in old time." Such were the popular traditions which this learned antiquary thought it worth his while to adopt. The whole proceeded, probably, from the Maydyn of the British times. Hence, the Maiden castle ; hence, the Castrum puellarum ; and hence, the fable of the Pictish princesses, who are feigned to have been educated in a castle which seems to have never belonged to the Pictish people. The late Lord Hailes, indeed, made it a question of serious inquiry whether Edinburgh Castle was ever known by the name of Castrum puellarum (c) ; but Walter Hemingford would have answered that question in the affirmative (cZ), and the Chartulary of Newbotle would have shown him the way to the Castrum puellarum (e). On this question, then, of the British, signifying ingentis Collis. The affix din is obviously the British word for a castle, and the research of Bullet has found Mai, in the Gaulish, to signify grand. Yet the fact perhaps does not warrant this exposition. Mai-din, British, or Magh-dun, Gaelic, may appositely signify the fort, or fortified mount, in the plain, and there is nothing in the Saxon that would apply, with any fitness, to the thing signified. What may be found in the Scandinavian Gothic upon the point, I pretend not to know I (c) Scots Mag., 1773, p. 120. There is one answer in p. 222, and a second in p. 240. (d) Historia, i., 98. After the capture of Roxburgh Castle by Edward I. in 1296, Hemingford adds: " Profectus est, cum exercitu toto, ad Castrum Puellarum, quod Anglice dicitur Edensburch." In a prior age, indeed, M. Paris, in giving an account of the English physician who was sent in 1255 to Edinburgh Castle, to visit the discontented queen of Alexander III., says : " Cum autem idem magister Eeginaldus [the doctor] ad Castrum Puellarum, quod vulgariter dicitur Edcnburc, exposita adventus sui causa et literas ostenderet tarn regis quam reginae Anglorum, dictam causam testificantes, adniissus est benigne." Hist., 907. This is a still more curious passage than the former from Hemingford. We thus perceive that Castrum Puellarum was the learned named of the place, and Edenburc only the vulgar appellation. In a still prior period we shall immediately find that Castellum Puellarum was the technical and diplomatic name of Edinburgh Castle, which was one of the five castles which William the Lion surrendered to Henry II. in 1174, viz., the castles of Roxburgh, Berwick, and Gadeworthe, Castellum Puellarum, et Castellum de Stryvlyn. Eym., i., 89 ; Hoveden, 545 ; and Fordun, the best of the Scottish historians, in giving an account of the defeat of Guey, the Count of Namur, on the burgh moor, in 1335, says he retreated to the site of the ruined " Castrum Puellarum de Edinburgh." L. xiii., c. 35. (e) Th ere is a charter of Eadulphus, the abbot of Holyrood, giving the monks of Newbotle "illam particulars terre nostre in feodo de Petendreich que jacet ex orientale parte vie regie et " publice que ducit a monasterio de Newbotle versus Castrum Puellarum ; scilicet, inter parcum " juxta Newbotle et rivulem que dicitur Balnebuth versus aquilonem et inter viam predictam et "terram dictorum monachorum versus orientem." Chart. Newbot., No. 16. There is no date to this charter, but it must have been made, as we know from the name of the grantor, about the year 1253. Sect. I. — Its Name.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 557 there can no longer be any doubt. The fact is, that the name of the castle was very early applied to the town, and to the monastery below it, as we might indeed learn from Hemingford in 1296, and from M. Paris in 1255 (/). We now perceive that the earliest name of this metropolis was imposed by the Gadeni people in their own significant speech, whose strength it was, even before the arrival of Agricola among them during the first century. There is still less difficulty in ascertaining when the Saxon name of the same capital was imposed by Edwin, the Northumbrian king, who gave his own celebrated appellation to the burgh on the rock, whence the town derived its appropriate designation (g). The Saxon name then assumed the forms of Edwines-hurgh and E denes-burgh, the fort of Edwin (h). (/) There was a charter of David L witnessed by William, the abbot " de Castello Puellarum." Charleton's Hist. Whitby, 82. "An 0 1154, Malcolmus rex dedit ecclesiam de Travement canonicis de Castello Puellarum." Chron. Sanct. Crucis Edin. in Anglia Sacra, i., 161. There is a charter of Malcolm IV. to the monks of Carnbuskenneth, which was dated " apud oppidum puellarum." Chart. Cambus., 54. In the charters of David L, who demised in 1153, we may perceive that he sometimes speaks of those objects by the name of Castrum Puellarum, and sometimes by the name of Edenburrjh. Chart. Newbot., 27-8; Chart. Kelso, 8; MS. Monast. Scotias, 106; Chart. May, 9; Du^d. Monast., ii., 1055. There is a charter of Earl Henry, who died in 1152, in which Edin- burgh Castle is called Castrum Puellarum. Chart. Kelso, 240. Several of the charters of Malcolm IV., who demised in 1165, bear to have been granted at the Castrum Puellarum, at Castellum Puellarum, at Oppidum Puellarum, and at Edinburg. Chart. Newbot., 159, 175 ; Chart. Paisley, 8 ; Chart. Cambusken., 54; Chart. Aberd., 211; Chart. May, 16; and Chart. Antiq. Bibl. Harl., 11. Of the charters of William, who succeeded his brother in 1165, few were granted at Edinburgh. Of those few, most of them are dated from Edinburgh, and scarcely any from Castellum Puellarum. Many of the charters of Alexander II. were dated from Edinburgh Castle, as he resided in it ; and he uses the designation of Castrum Puellarum generally, and but seldom Edinburg. See the Chartularies throughout. Alexander III., who demised in 1286, dates his charters commonly from Castrum Puellarum, sometimes Castellum Puellarum; once, in 1278, he speaks of his residence at Castrum Puellarum de Edinburgh, but never, as far as appears, by the name of Edinburgh onlj\ See his charters. It is unnecessary to trace so clear a point an)' further. It does not appear, however, that the coins of the Scottish kings bear Castrum Puellarum, or Oppidum Puellarum, as the name of the place of mintage. (g) Edwin, the potent king of Northumberland, fell a premature sacrifice to civil discord in 634 a.d. Savill's Fasti, annexed to the " Scriptores Post Bedam." (h) See the charters of Scone by Alexander I., and of Holyroodhouse by David I. Sir James Dalrymple's Col. ; and Maitland's Edinburgh. See also the Coins of William the Lion, in Cardonnel's Numismata, pi. 1 : " Adam on Edenebu — .'' We thus see that the name of the mintmaster was Adam, and that the language of the inscription was Saxon ; the A.-S. on, being placed to denote the English in. This, then, is a very early specimen of the Saxon speech of Edinburgh. See Caledonia, i., 254. Fordun, however, has his own fiction, i., 64 ; and Wyntoun has his conceit, which comes nearer to the British original. Cronyc, i., 54. 4 4 B 558 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. The next change of this dignified name was from the Saxon to the Gaelic, from Edivins-hurgh to Dun-Edin ; and herein the philologist may perceive the different formations of the Saxon and the Gaelic 3 the name of the Saxon king being prefixed in the first, and the name of the same king being annexed in the last. Nor is this translation so modern as superficiality would suppose. The Register of the priory of St. Andrews, in recording the demise of Edgar [1107], says, " mortuus in Dun-Eden et sepultus in Dunfermling (i)." In more recent times this metropolis has received, from ignorance and refinement, several names which betray the unpropitious sources whence they proceeded. Bolton, in his admirable Hypercritica, when exposing the absurdity of changing proper names in Latin histories, adds : "In this fine and mere schoolish folly Buchanan is often taken, not without casting his reader into obscurity." It was he who first called the Scottish metropolis Edina rather than Edinburg-us, which had been more appropriate though less poetical (k). The charters we have just seen cast the clearest lights on the ancient names of Edinburgh, but the seals of this city rather obscure the clear than illustrate the dark. There is a very ancient seal, which was engraved at the expense of the Antiquary Society of London, in the work of Astle on the Scottish seals (/). (i) Innes's Crit. Essay, 797-803. In more recent times, indeed, Edinburgh is called, in Gaelic, Dun-monaidh, the hill of the moor, both in the Highland Tales, and in Bishop Carswell's Translation of the Service of the Church, which was printed at Edinburgh. (k) The classical name is now Edinensis. See the elegant title page of the Transactions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh. Lesley, the contemporary and rival of Buchanan, says, indeed : " Cruthnaeus Camelodunum Primariam Pictorum urbem, et Agnedam, postea Ethinburgum ab Etho " quodam Pictorum rege dictam, cum Puellarum Castro (ubi regis et nobilium Pictorum filise, dum " nuptui darentur, servari et praeceptis ad humanitatem et virtutem informari solebant) condidit." Edit. Rome, 1578, p. 84. In his curious map, however, Lesley has Edinburgum; but St. Andrews he dignifies as the metropolis. (I) PI. ii., No. 1 : The committee of antiquaries was unable to read the legend of this seal, and the letterpress in p. 13, by way of exposition, says that "it is doubtful if the Castrum Puellarum be not Dumfries, though repeatedly inferred to be Edinburgh by our English historians of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries." But we have seen above, from a thousand charters, what fitness there was in this doubt of antiquarianism. I was disposed to doubt whether there was such a seal of Edinburgh, till I received a letter from Col. Henry Hutton of the Artillery, who is compiling a Monasticon Scotice, dated the 13th of September, 1801 : "I met with a curious old << seal of Edinburgh, the last time I was in Scotland, appendant to some old papers (I think of " the 15th century), in the charter room of the city [of Edinburgh]. It has two sides, on one "of which is the figure of St. Giles [the guardian saint of the city], with a legend, which has "hitherto baffled all my endeavours to decipher." I have also tried in vain to decipher the same legend. There is the delineation of Sir James Balfour, of the common seal of Edinburgh Sect. VIIL— Its Situation and Extent.] Of NORTH-BEITAIN. 559 Maitland seems to have been the first inquirer who freed both the history of Edinburgh and the origin of its name, from the fables which had involved both for ages in fictitious honours (m). In the meantime, the shire of Edinburgh was known both in history and tradition, by the significant name of Mid-Lothian. The fine country lying along the Forth, from the Tweed to the Avon, was scarcely known by the name of Lothian till the tenth century had almost expired (n). During the reign of David I., Lothian still extended southward to the Tweed (o). It was during the subsequent reigns restricted to the country lying northward of the Lammermoor, and in the 13th century, Lothian became divided, by the na- tional policy, into three parts, which were known in the tradition and recog- nized in the law of the nation, by the names of East, West, and Mid- Lothian (p). § n. Of its Situation and Extent.'] Mid-Lothian has Linlithgow on the west, the Forth on the north, Haddington and a small part of Berwick on the east, and Selkirk, Peebles, and Lanark on the south. Edinburghshire or Mid-Lothian lies between 55° 39' 30", and 55° 59' 20" north latitude; and between 2° 52', and 3° 45' 10" west longitude from Greenwich. The college of Edinburgh, according to astronomical observations, stands in 55° 57' 57" of north latitude, and 3° 12' west longitude of Greenwich (q). Edinburgh- city, in the Brit. Mus. Hail., 4694. The device is a large castle. The legend is — " S. Commune burgi de Edenburgi." One of the earliest maps of Edinburgh is that of James Gordon of Botbiemay, during the reign of Charles I., which was engraved by F. de Wit of Amsterdam ; and he calls the city civitas Edinodunensis. (m) Mait. Hist. Edin., 2-6. (n) Caledonia, i. 259, wherein the meaning of the word Lothian is investigated, (o) See the charter of Bobert I. Bobert. Index, 155. (p) Bagimont's Boll ; Transact. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 119. (-burn, Po/-beth, and Pol-ton ; but there are not in this shire any instance of either Aid or Gil. 4 4 0 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. circles (r). On Heriot-town hill there is a circle consisting of high stones, and measuring seventy or eighty feet in diameter (s). Such are the faint memorials of the worship which the first settlers offered to the Deity. There are many cairns in this shire which may be equally deemed the funereal monuments of the pristine inhabitants. In Borthwick parish, on the lands of Currie, there are several cairns, the cemeteries of the earliest times (t). On the ground of Comiston, in Colinton parish, there are two very large conical cairns wherein human bones have been found, with fragments of ancient armour. Not far from those curious remains stands a massy block of whin- stone which is called the Cat-st&ne, and which is seven feet high above the ground and more than four feet below it («).. All those intimations denote the site of an early conflict, as indeed the remains of an ancient encampment evince. In Mid-Calder parish there are several mounds of earth which appear to be the repositories of the dead, and which are known in the southern parts of our island by the appropriate name of barrows (x). In the vicinity of Newbotle Abbey there was of old a large tumulus which was composed of earth, of a conical figure, 30 feet high and 90 feet diameter at the base, and which was surrounded by a circle of stones. This barrow, which had a fir tree growing on its summit, was removed when Newbotle house was rebuilt. Upon opening this tumulus there was found a stone coffin near seven feet long that con- tained a human skull, which was presented to the Antiquarian Society of Edin- burgh, in April 1782 (//). In August, 1754, a farmer ploughing his field at Roslin turned up the cover of a stone coffin about nine feet long, which contained the bones of a human body. The bones were much decayed, except the skull and teeth, which were sound and large (z). This must have been the grave of some British warrior rather than the coffin of one of the chiefs who fell in the battles of Roslin during the year 1303. In Edinburghshire there remain also various specimens of the military art of the earliest people. In Penicuik parish, near the tenth mile-stone from Edinburgh on the Linton road, is an oval camp on an eminence which (?■) Stat. Acco., ix., 415. (s) lb., xvi., 57. (t) lb., xiii., 635. Below the tumuli, and even around them, there have been dug up earthen pots, which were full of half-burnt bones, and which were each covered by a flat stone. The pots were of coarse, but curious workmanship, and were ornamented with various figures. Ib., 636. (u) lb., xix., 591 ; and Maitland, Edin., 508. The name is obviously derived from the British Cad, the Gaelic Cath, signifying a battle ; and cat-stane means the battle-stone. (x) Stat. Acco., xiv., 371. (y) Account of that Society, 95. (z) Scots Mag., 1754, 402. Sect. IV. — Its Antiquities.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 567 measures within eighty-four by sixty-seven yards, enclosing a number of tumuli that are each eleven yards in diameter. It is encompassed by two ditches, each four yards wide, with a mound of six yards between them, having three entrances, and it is called, by the tradition of the country, the Castle. There is a similar encampment on the bank of Harkenburn, within the woods of Penicuik (a). In Borthwick parish, on the farm of Cat- cune, there is a field which has immemorially been called the Chesters, in the middle whereof there is an oval encampment measuring about half an acre. In the midst of this oval is an immense round whinstone, which labour has not yet been able to remove, and a hundred yards distant from it are several cairns, the sepulchral monuments of the warriors who had defended the Cat-cune, the battle- hillock, as the Celtic name imports (b). In Crichton parish, at Longfaugh, there are the remains of a camp having a circular form, which may still be traced on a rising ground. In the neighbourhood of this ancient strength there have been recently dug up many bones, the only rests of the bi'ave men who were its best defence (c). In Heriot parish, on Midhill- head, there may still be seen three large rings or deep ditches, of about a hundred paces diameter, the obvious security of the earliest people (d). In Liberton parish there is an ancient rampart of an oval form. In the same vicinity, there are the remains of fortifications, which retain the characteristic names of Kaims. There are near them two tumuli, called CWr-c^^f-knows, or the Black Camp on the knolls, and there are also here, as proper accompaniments of so many warlike objects. Cai-stanes or battle-stones (e). (a) Scots Mag., x., 431 . (5) A mile and a half south-west from this field, on the lands of Middleton, are Chesters of quite a different description. The former Chester is on a southern exposure ; these Chesters are on a northern. They are on a sloping bank, and consist of five terraces, alternately overhanging a pleasant valley and rivulet. The Reverend Mr. Clunie, the minister of Borthwick, MS. letter to me. These last intimations seem to import that the site of a camp had been converted into a place of sport. (c) Stat. Acco., xiv., 436. (d) lb., xvi., 57-8. (e) Antiq. Trans. Edin., 304-8. In the ancient British speech, Cad signifies a battle, a striving to keep ; so Cath, in the Gaelic, equally signifies a battle. The Saxons, who affixed their word stane to the Celtic term Cat, found those memorials of warfare already in existence, and adopted a previous appellation, which perhaps they did not pei-fectly understand. Caer also means, in the British, a mound, for defence ; and Du, black ; and so in the Gaelic form of the same word Duff, signifies black. We have already seen Ca£-stane and Cai-cune ; and there are, on the northern side of the Pentland hills, the C«£-heaps. Mait. Hist. Edin., 507. The prefixes Cath, Cat, Cad, all carry the intelligent mind back to the disastrous conflicts of Celtic times. 568 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. In Lass wade parish,, near the house of Mavis-bank, there is a circular mount of earth, which is begirt with ramparts that are now cut into terraces. Herein have been found ancient weapons of brass, with fibula?, bridle- bits, and other warlike articles of a similar nature (/). There is reason to believe that the Romans according to their custom, may have taken possession of this ancient strength, as a commodious post for protecting their passage of the Esk [g). In Ratho parish, there are two ancient strengths which are surrounded by ramparts ; the one on Kaims-hill, in the south-western part of the parish ; and the other on the South Plat-hill, near the manse. The last has been greatly destroyed, by carrying away the stones for the various purposes of improvement (h). To this class of military antiquities may be referred the Maiden castles of Roslin and of Edinburgh, as fortlets of the British people, which the name pretty plainly intimates ; and this circumstance will probably lead some minds to consider the Castrum Puellarum of Edinburgh, as a Gadeni strength of the very earliest times. To all those may be added the caves of Hawthoinden, which were probably the hiding places of the first people, and which may have been improved by more recent warriors. If we except the topographical language which is still spoken in this shire, those notices indicate the chief remains of the Ottadini and Gadeni, the British tribes who had inhabited the wilds of this shire, during a thousand years before they w T ere disturbed by the intrusion of strangers. Towards the conclusion of the first century, the Romans entered upon the area of Edinburghshire, and they retained their possession more than three hundred and sixty years, by roads, by camps, and by naval stations. Their antiquities have been already investigated, and need not be repeated (i). During (y) In Penicuik parish, near Brunt-stane Castle, was lately found an arrow-head of flint, barbed, which was about two inches long and one inch broad. It is preserved in Penicuik House. Stat. Acco.,. x., 420-5. (). He probably ceased to be sheriff when he was chosen regent in 1572. In 1581, James VI. created Francis, the infant nephew of the forfeited Bothwell, Earl of Bothwell and sheriff of Edinburgh, and proprietor of all the other offices and estates of his uncle (c). After committing several murders and some treasons, though frequently pardoned by the facility which had made him an earl and sheriff, Francis, Lord Bothwell, was forfeited in 1593. Sir William Set on, the fourth son of George, Lord Setofi, was now appointed successor to that unworthy noble (d). Sir George probably had for his successor, Sir Ludowic Lauder of Over-Gogar, who was undoubtedly the principal sheriff of Edin- burghshire in 1630 (e). William, the first Earl of Dalhousie, acted as sheriff of this shire during the civil wars of Charles I.'s reign. John, the Earl of Lauderdale, is said to have been appointed sheriff of Edinburghshire at the Restoration (f). His younger brother, Charles Maitland, who succeeded to the earldom, was appointed on the 12th of November 1672, sheriff of Edin- burghshire during his life, with power to appoint deputies and other officers ((/) : (a) Pari. Eec, 812. (b) Crawfurd's Peer., 352, who quotes the charter in Morton's Archives. (c) Crawfurd and Douglas Peerages. At that epoch, the suits of Edinburgh and the suits of Had- dington were called separately in Parliament, though the two districts had but one sheriff. Wight on Pari. App., 431-2. This fact proves clearly that the districts and offices and jurisdictions were different., in the comtemplation of Parliament. (d) MS. History of the Seton family. He continued sheriff of Edinburgh in 1613. Taxt Eoll Eecord. (e) Sir Ludowic, as sheriff principal of Edinburgh, held a special court on the 25th of May 1630, for serving William, the Earl of Monteith, heir to David, Earl of Stratheain. Hay's Vindication, 136. (/) Douglas Peer., 395, mentions this appointment, without adequate authority. He was certainly appointed constable of the castle of Edinburgh, as we know from the inscription on his tomb-stone. Crawfurd's Peer., 255. (g) Warrant Book in the Paper Office. On the 14th of November 1682, the Earl of Dalhousie was appointed sheriff during pleasure. Id. On the 12th of December 1682, George Gordon, the first Earl of Aberdeen, was appointed sheriff of Edinburgh during pleasure. Id. He became President of the Session in 1681, and Lord Chancellor in 1682. 578 An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV. — Edinburghshire. and he died upon the 9th of June 1691 (g). On the 4th of July 1684, the Earl of Perth was appointed Sheriff of Edinburgh during pleasure (h), in the room of the Earl of Aberdeen (i). He was re-appointed on the accession of James VII. (k). He had been made Justice General in 1682; Chancellor in 1684, having also superseded the Earl of Aberdeen as chancellor as well as Sheriff. At the Revolution he was imprisoned, he was long confined, and being discharged at the end of four years, on condition of expatriation, he went first to Rome, thence to his old master at St. Germains, where he was created Duke of Perth, and died in 1716 (I). King William's government seems to have been in no haste to appoint a new Sheriff for Edinburgh in the room of the imprisoned Perth (m). In February 1703, William, the fifth Earl of Dalhousie, was appointed Sheriff of Edinburgh for life (n). On the 12th of August 1718, Charles Earl of Lauderdale, was nominated Sheriff of Edinburgh during pleasure ; but he continued to execute this trust till his death in 1744 (o). In August 1744, James Earl of Lauderdale was appointed his father's successor, and he was the last under the ancient regimen ( p). Yet, as he only enjoyed this office during pleasure, he could not make a claim when jurisdictions were to be abolished by purchase. In 1748, Charles Maitland of Pitrichie was appointed the sheriff-depute, with a salary of £250 a year (q), under the new system, the happiest change in the progress of this trust, though it was not perfect. But the power of the Sheriff of Mid-Lothian, and the extent of his authority, appear to have been limited in every age by various jurisdictions within his shire. The castle of Edinburgh had always, probably, a constable, whatever (rice which he put upon so great a good, at that perilous moment, was the cession of Berwick for ever. The conduct of Edinburgh, on that occasion, does great honour to the real patriotism of her citizens. They agreed to repay to Edward IV. whatever money he had advanced to James III., in pursuance of their contract for the marriage of the Lady Cicilie, Edward's daughter, to James's (£) Ryraer, xii. 154, has recorded the treachery of Albany and the baseness of Edward ; Habing- ton's Hist, of Ed. IV., 201, recites some additional details. (Z) Pitscottie, 141, says the king took with him certain artillery out of the castle of Edinburgh, and made Cochran conveyer of them. (m) The king remained in Edinburgh castle from the 22d of July to the 29th of September 1482,. as we have seen. Hall says, indeed, that James, while Glocester and Albany marched to Berwick, " did voluntarily incarcerate himself in the strong castle of Maydens in Edinburgh." Chron. TOl. lv. (n) Id. (o) Id. (p) Eym. sii. 160. 602 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. son (r). After all those actions, which does Edinburgh such great credit, the provost and citizens assisted Albany in releasing the king from his confine- ment, whether real or affected, in the castle of the Maydens. The gates flew open, as if by enchantment, at their approach. The king embraced his brother as a mark of his thankful reconcilement ; and they rode together from the castle to Holyroodhouse, amidst the tumultuous joy of a deluded people ; and the king was studious to bestow on the inhabitants of Edinburgh, munificent tokens of his grateful recollection of their useful attachment to him during his utmost need (s). The parliament which assembled at Edinburgh on the 2nd of December 1482, by making Albany Lieutenant General of the realm, virtually delivered the king and the nation into his insidious hands. During Christmas holidays 1482, that ambitious prince attempted to seize the king's person; but James, who resided at Edinburgh as his safest shield, by rousing the citizens and retiring into the castle, disappointed his brother's treasonous purpose. By the prompt performance of all its stipulations with England, during those terrible times, Edinburgh seems to have obtained great praise. It was called ditissimum oppidum, by the continuator of the Annals of Croyland, who censured Gloucester for not sacking this opulent town (t). (s) On the 4th of August 1482, the provost, the merchants, and the citizens, entered into a bond to repay to Edward what he had advanced, provided he signified by the 10th of October then nest, that he would rather have payment than the marriage of his daughter. He accord- ingly made such a signification, and the money was honestly paid by Edinburgh. Eym. xii. 162-5-7, and see before p. 274. Walter Bartrahame was then provost of the tons of Edinburgh. We may remark that the provost does not call Edinburgh a city, nor himself lord provost. (s) On the 16th of November 1482, by a special charter, he constituted their provost hereditary shei'iff within the town, and gave the corporation the fines and escheats arising from the office. He empowered tbe magistrates to make laws, for the better government of the people, within their jurisdiction. He exempted them from the payment of certain duties, and he empowered them to exact customs on some merchandizes which might be imported at Leith. Arnot, 13 ; Mait- land, 9. And as a perpetual remembrancer, saith Maitland, of the loyalty and bravery of the Edinburghers on the aforesaid occasion, the king granted them a banner, with power to display the same in defence of their king, their country, and their own rights. The flag, which is at present denominated the Blue Blanket, and which is kept by the convener of the trades ; at whose appearance therewith, it is said, that not only the artificers of Edinburgh are obliged to repair to it, but all the craftsmen within Scotland, and fight under the convener of Edinburgh. Maitland, 10. (t) For the revenue of the corporation at that epoch, see Maitland, 10. The people of this wealthy town tried in 1488 to be wealthier by unworthy means. They supposed the ruin of Leith to be the enrichment of Edinburgh . Id. Sect. VI. — Its Civil History.] Of NOETH-BRIT AIN. The death of Edward IV. and the disappointment of Albany did not prevent the cabals of the nobles, nor suspend the final fate of James III. The king found it necessary to retire from Edinburgh in March 1488, the insurgents hav- ing possessed themselves of the southern shires. He passed the Forth, and endeavoured, with some success, to raise troops in the northern districts, where Angus and Gray had not shed their baneful influences. The rebels, after they had taken the castle of Dunbar, marched through Lothian to Leith, where they seized the king's property, which they applied to the uses of insurrection. Returning from the north, the king made the convention of Blackness with the insurgent nobles, disarming himself, and thereby leaving his opponents in power. James had no sooner disbanded his army, than the rebellious nobles came out with augmented numbers, avowing their design of dethroning the king. The unhappy monarch now supplied the castle of Edinburgh, where his treasures and valuables were deposited ; and he again collected his northern forces, which he marched to Stirling- field, where he lost his crown and life on the 11th of June 1488. The castle of Edinburgh soon surrendered to the rebellious force that had conquered the king ; and with it the leaders obtained the king's treasure and jewels ; as in this stronghold his valuables had been deposited as a place of safety (t), Edinburgh town was meantime the principal place of coinage of James III., as it had been of James II. (u). The citizens of Edinburgh had protected the late king ; and the beneficent king, in return, had granted to the citizens many privileges. The first parliament of James IV. assembled at Edinburgh on the 9th of October 1488, amid the guilty triumphs of rebellious faction (x). Two of the leaders, Patrick Lord Hailes, the Earl of Both well, and Alexander Home, were empowered to rule the Lothians and Merse. Lord Hailes, who was the master of the household and the constable of Edinburgh castle, was authorized to take charge of the artillery and stuff in the castle, with the king's brother, the Duke of Ross (y) In February 1488-9, that successful leader was em- powered " to bring in the king's property, casualties, and revenues, in the shires of Edinburgh, Haddington, Kirkcudbright and Wigton (2)." In this manner, then, were the castle, tlie city, and the shire of Edinburgh, delivered to the domination of Patrick, Earl of Bothwell (a). (t) Pitscottie, 172 ; Pari. Eec. 373. Edinburgh castle was also the ordnance depository of the same king ; and his ordnance stores consisted of two great curtaldis, which had been sent from France, ten falcons, thirty iron cart guns, sixteen carts for powder and stone bullets. («) Cardonnel, pi. v., p. 79-81. (x) Pari. Eec. 331. (tf) lb. 339. (x) lb. 364, (a) At that epoch Edinburgh enjoyed the peculiar privilege of recovering rents by a summary 604 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. As James IV. grew up in years and in stature, Edinburgh became a busy- scene of magnificent entertainments, in which he greatly delighted. He frequently proclaimed tournaments to be held at Edinburgh, to which were invited the knights of every country. The fame whereof, saith Pitscottie, caused many errant knights to come out of strange countries to Scotland; because they heard of the knightly games of the king, his nobles, and gentlemen (b). Mean- time, the king, at the age of thirty, entered into spousals with the Lady Margaret, who was scarcely fourteen, the eldest daughter of Henry VII. ; and their marriage was celebrated at Edinburgh, within the abbey and palace of Holy- rood, with uncommon splendour, in August 1503 (c). This abbey, the scene process ; and the Parliament of February 1468-9, by a special act, extended the same privilege to Perth, and to the other burghs. Tb. 366. September 1497 is the epoch of the appearance at Edinburgh of a contagious plague which was yclept the grandgore. The infected were ordered, by proclamation, to retire to the inch, an island in the Forth. Maitland, 10. If this plague were the same veneral disease which appeared at the siege of Naples in 1495, it must have made a rapid pro- gress to Edinburgh. (b) Pits. 186-7. (c) The Lady Margaret, after spending some joyous days at Dalkeith castle, on the 7th of August 1503, departed for Edinburgh, "nobly accompanied, and in fayr array, in her litere, very richly enorned.'' — A myle from Dalkeith, the kynge sent to the quene a grett tame hart for to have a corse. The kynge caused the said hart to be losed and put a grayhond after hym, that maid a fayr course, but the said hart wanne the town and went to his repayre. — Half of the way the kyng came to mett her, monted apon a bay horse, renning as he wold renne after the hayre, accompanyed of many gentjdmen. — At the commying towardes the quene he made hyr very humble obeyssaunce, in lepynge downe of hys horse and kyssed hyr in hyr litere. This doon, he monted ageyn, and ychon being put in ordre as before, a gentylman husscher bare the swerde before hym. — The Erie of Bothwell bare the swerde at the entreng the towne of Edenbourgh, and had on a long gowne of blak velvett fourred with marten. — The kyng monted upon a pallefroy, withe the said quene behinde hym, and so rode thorow the said towne of Edenburgh. — Halfe a mylle ny to that, within a medewe, was a pavillion, whereof cam owt a knyght on horsebak, armed at all peces, having his lady paramour that barre his horne ; and by a vantur there cam another also armed, and robbed from hym his said lady, and blew the said horne, whereby the said knycht turned after hym ; and they did well torney tyl the kynge cam hymselfe, the quene behynde hym, crying Paix, and caused them for to be departed. — Ther war many honest people of the town and of the countre aboute, honestlye arrayed all on horsbak, and so by ordre, the kyng and the quene entred within the said town. At the entryng that same, cam in processyon the Grey Freres, with the crosse and some relicks, the wich was presented by the warden to the kynge for to kysse, bot he wolde not before the quene, and he had hys hed bare during the ceremonies. — At the entryng of the said towne was maid a yatt of wood painted, with two towrells and a windowe in the midds. In the wich towrells was at the windowes revested angells syngyng joyously for the coming of so noble a lady, and at the said middyl wyndowe was in lyk wys an angell presenting the kees to the said quene. — In the mydds of the towne was a crosse new paynted, and ny to that Sect. VI.— Its Civil History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 605 of so many events, were founded, as we have seen, under David I., the father of so many monkish establishments. The abbeys, from their accommodation, and their sanctity during rude ages, became the lodgings of kings and nobles. James I. with his queen, resided in the abbey of Holyrood when they attended public affairs at Edinburgh. In the same commodious hostel James III. resided till he was driven from it by treason. We may easily suppose that the fre- quency of the royal residence gradually improved the abbey to a palace, in which the royal nuptials were now celebrated on the interesting Union of the Thistle and and Rose (d). same a fontayne, castynge forth of wyn and ychon drank that wold. — Ny to that crosse was a scarfaust maid, wher was represented Paris and the three Deessys with Mercure, that gaffe hym the apyll of gold for to gyffe to the most fayre of the three, wiche he gave to Venus. More fourther was of new maid one other yatt, upon the wiche was in sieges the iiii vertus ; theiss is to weytt, justice, force, temperance, and prudence. Under was a licorne and a gi'eyhound, that held a difference of one chardon florystred and a red rose entrecassed, with thos war tabrets that played merrily whyll the noble company passed thorough. The towne of Edenbourgh was in many places haunged with tapissery ; the howses and wyndowes war full of lordes, ladyes, gentyl- women and gentylmen, and in the streyts war soe grett multitude of people without nombre that it was a fayre thynge to se. The wiche people war verey glad of the commyng of the said quene ; and in the churches of the sayd towne bells rang for myrthe. — Then the noble company passed out of the said towne to the churche of the Holycrosse, out of which cam the archbishop of Saunt Andrew, brother to the said kynge, his crosse borne before hym, accompanyed with many bishops and abbots in their pontificals, with the religious richly revested. After this doon, ychon lept off his horse, and in fayr ordre went after the processyon to the church, and in the entryng of that sam, the kynge and the quene light downe, and after led her to the grett awter, wher was a place ordonned for them to knele apon two cuschyons of cloth of gold. But the kynge wolde never knell down first, bot both togeder. (d) On the 7th of August 1503, saith the herald, Young, " after all reverences doon at the church, in order as before, the king transported himself to the pallais thorough the clostre, holdynge allwayes the quene by the body, and hys hed bare, tyll he had brought her within her chammer." Lei. Col. iv. 290. At that period, the palace had a chapel within it, and the chaplain was the keeper of the palace. Yet, the historians of Edinburgh suppose that James V. built the first part of the palace. The same historians seem to have forgotten that such a marriage was celebrated splendidly at Edin- burgh. The herald, Young, has given the whole in the most curious detail in Leland. But it was reserved for Dunbar, the greatest of the Scottish poets, to celebrate the nuptials of James and Margaret in a strain of versification, which emulates, if it do not surpass the amatory effusions of James I., as well as the elegant tales of Chaucer : " To see this court, bot all were went away ; Then up I leinyt, halflings in affrey, Callt to my muse, and for my subject chois To sing the ryel Thrissil and the Rose." 4 4 H 606 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. Important as that Union was to the state, had prudence managed the sceptre, it was not more consequential in policy than the introduction to Edinburgh in 1508 of printing, by Chepman and Millar, under a charter of James IV., was to the literature of his rugged people (d). The king continued to reside at Edinburgh. It was here that he entertained the French ambassador at great expense, with coarse profusion (e). Such entertainments were at length inter- rupted by the plague, which harrassed Edinburgh, during the afflictive year 1513 (f). Meantime, as the king was now preparing for unlucky warfare, he went daily to inspect the progress of his artillery within Edinburgh castle, and the outfit of his navy at Newhaven (g). He summoned the whole array of his kingdom to assemble on the Burgh-moor of Edinburgh. The king was not to be frightened from his absurd warfare either by the spectre at Linlithgow or the demon at Edinburgh (h). Unawed by such spirits, the provost, the Earl of Angus, and the magistrates of Edinburgh, with many burgesses, joined the king's host. This great army marched from the burgh-moor in August 1513, to its destiny on Floddon field. It was there dissipated on the 9th of September 1513, with mighty loss, when the king was slain. The fortitude with which the citizens of Edinburgh received, on the morrow, the disastrous news, w T ill ever do them great honour (i). As the Earl of Surrey did not follow up his decisive blow till he was urged by his unfeeling master, time was given to a resolute people to make the most vigorous resistance, of which Edinburgh had shown an encouraging example (1c). But, on that disastrous occasion, Edinburgh was deemed too unsafe for the sitting of the Great Council, which adjourned to Stirling, where James V. was crowned (I). As Surrey did not advance ; as the spirits of the people became more settled ; the Great Council returned to Edinburgh, wherein it sat in (d) There are several very curious specimens of the earliest printing press of Scotland, by Chepman and Millar, which are preserved in the Advocates' Library with curious care. (e) See Arnot's Hist. Edin. 98—111. (/) To stop its progress, the magistrates ordered the shops to be shut during 15 days, and nothing to be sold bat the necessaries of life. Maitland, 11. (g) Dacre's Letter to Henry VElI., dated the 24th of February. Calig. B. iii. 23. (A) Pitscottie, 203-4. (i) Mait. 11-12; Lord Hailes's Remarks, 147. (k) On that occasion, the town council of Edinburgh ordained that a guard of four-and-twenty men should be raised for the defence of the city, and that 5001. Scots should be collected for the purpose of fortifying the town and purchasing artillery ; and the council ordered an extension of the town wall, so as to include the new buildings on the southward. Maitland, 12 — 139. The plague continued meanwhile to rage in Edinburgh, and the town council adopted measures to check its ravages. Ib. 12 ; Arnot, 14. (I) Pari. Eec. 525. Sect. VI. — Its Civil History.'] Of NOETH-BRITAIN. 607 September and October 1513 (m). Yet, as Henry VIII. reproached Surrey for his lenity, as the unfeeling uncle of the Scottish king commanded the most wasteful inroads to be made on his country, southern Scotland was ravaged with fire and sword during the autumn of 1513 (n). The Great Council removed from Edinburgh to Perth, where it sat till the 5th of December in more security (o). All eyes were now fixed on the arrival of the putative Duke of Albany, who was to give stability to a disjointed government, and vigour to the Scottish arms. He arrived at Edinburgh on the 26th of May 1515, when he was received with unwonted magnificence. The barons went out to meet him (^>), the burgesses set forth splendid exhibitions (q), and the queen waited for him at the gate of Holyrood palace (r). Albany soon after proclaimed at the cross of Edinburgh, the peace with England which France had negotiated for Scotland. At Edinburgh, on the 12th of July 1515, assembled the parliament which directed the inauguration of Albany, with unusual pomp, who was proclaimed protector and governor of Scotland till the infant king should arrive at the eighteenth year of his age (s). Albany now resided in the palace of Holyrood, and the queen found more safety for herself and her two sons in Edinburgh castle. But Albany seems to have thought himself insecure while the queen retained her children and the castle. With the concurrence of parliament, he proceeded with four appointed peers to demand the royal children as belong- ing to the nation rather than to her. She spoke to them at the castle gate, but she declined to admit them into the fortalice which her late husband had delivered to her special charge (t). She thus, however, eluded their demands, and sent her sons to Stirling castle, which Albany prepared to beseige. The queen followed them thither, as she supposed she had at Stirling more influence. Yet she soon surrendered Stirling castle and her children to (m) Pari. Eec. 526-7-8. (n) Original Letter, Calig. B. ; which evinces the erroneous representations of the Scottish his- torians. (o) Pari. Eec. 528-38. Lesley, 375-6 (q) Holinshed, 303, says the burgesses represented sundry conceits, pageants and plays,, to do him honour. (?•) Lesley, 376. (s) Dacre's Letter to the English Council, Calig. B. ii. 281. (t) Id. Dacre makes the queen say to those lords : " This castle is part of my enfeoffment, and of it, by my late husband, the king, was I made sole governess." Id. She may have been made governess, but in Edinburgh castle she had no right of dower by her enfeoffment. Bvm. xiii. 63. 60S An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. Albany ; and immediately returned to Edinburgh castle, where she remained a while, distrusting and distrusted. Edinburgh castle, from being a scene of intrigue, soon became a prison of state (u). It was also chosen as a place of secure residence for the infant king. In May 1517, when Albany meditated a visit to France, the king was placed in Edinburgh castle, under the care of four nobles; Marshal and Erskine, Borthwick. and Ruthven. But, the plague again appearing in Edin- burgh, the king was removed to Craigmillar castle, and sometimes to Dalkeith. In the meantime, the town became a frequent theatre of tumult, from the com- petition of the Hamiltons and Douglases, for superiority in the magistracy. At the head of the Hamiltons was Arran ; in the front of the Douglases was Angus ; each pretending to be provost. In December 1519, tumults ensued, and lives were lost : Albany transmitted a prohibition from France in February 1519-20, against choosing for supreme magistrate either a Douglas or a Ham- ilton (x). From this scene of tumult, Arran withdrew to Glasgow, to which he was followed by the chancellor and other lords ; and the king's governors, meanwhile, shut the gates of the castle against Angus (y). Such facts evince with sufficient conviction, that neither law nor manners existed in Scotland under the regency of Albany. The parliament was about to meet, at Edin- burgh in April 1520 ; and a more violent tumult between those irascible parties took place, when many lives were lost (z). The borderers came to the aid of Angus, and domineered a while with lawless violence ; and the plague (w) In October 1515, to Edinburgh castle, of which the Earl of Arran had then the charge, the Lord Home was committed by the regent Albany. But the keeper and the prisoner emigrated together to the borders ; so unprincipled were the nobles of that age. They were also so irascible that they seldom met without an assault. The Earl of Murray having a quarrel with the Earl of Huntly, and meeting him in the streets of Edinburgh in November 1515, a conflict ensued between the nobles and their followers, which was not appeased till the regent personally interposed, and committed them to the castle. Lesley, 379. The Lords Eothes and Lindsay, on the 17th of June 1518, also fought in the streets of Edinburgh till they were both sent to separate castles. Holinshed, 306. (x) Arnot, 14, who mistakes the date of that prohibitory interposition. (y) Lesley, 392. (z) In popular history, this bloody conflict on the streets of Edinburgh was called cleanse the causey. The Hamiltons were expelled by the Douglases with great loss. Arran, and his putative son, Sir James Hamilton, escaped by a ford in the Nor-loch. Archbishop Beaton, the chancellor, took refuge in the Dominican church, whence he was dragged from behind the high altar, and would have been slain but for the interposition of Douglas, the well-known bishop of Dunkeld. Lesley, 394-5 ; Pitscottie, 219-21 ; and the Pari. Eec. 555, which corrects the egregious mistakes of the Scottish historians. Sect. VI. , — Its Civil History.~] Of NORTH-BRIT AIN. 609 continued by its ravages to add its horrors to the rapine of party. The town council in vain endeavoured to augment the respectability and the power of the provost, in order to enable him to cope with criminals who were too powerful for the enfeebled state (a). At length arrived the regent from France, in November 1521. The queen who no longer found " sweet solace " in her husband Angus, went out, with several nobles, to meet the protector, who was expected to afford relief from lawless outrage. Angus fled with his unprincipled followers to the English borders ; and Albany displaced the magistrates of Edinburgh, who owed their choice to the recommendation of that notorious anarch (6). Henry VIII. added the distresses of foreign to the turmoils of civil war, when the truce expired, in February 1522. He sent a small squadron into the Forth, where they seized some ships and ravaged some towns on either shore ; but, being resolutely opposed, this hostile squadron retired without doing much damage or gaining any fame. The parliament which assembled at Edinburgh, on the 18th of July 1522, seems to have partaken of the general imbecility of the state. At the desire of the queen and regent, the Estates authorized the removal of the king, who was advanced into his eleventh year, from Edinburgh castle to Stirling, under the sole governance of Lord Erskine ; but they seem to have been unable to reform the profligacy of manners, or to strengthen the weakness of the laws. In September 1523, arrived Albany at Edinburgh from his second visit to France. He brought with him arms and warlike stores for defending the border from the unprincipled devastation of Henry VIII. He collected a vast army on the moor of Edinburgh, with which he marched through the Lothians to Northumberland ; but he returned without effecting any object which was worthy of such a force or of such expense. He met the parliament at Edin- burgh, in November 1523, for the last time ; and on the 20th of May 1524, he departed for ever from Holyroodhouse to France, leaving the Scottish govern- ment open to be seized by whatever pretender to rule. In July 1524, the queen brought her son from Stirling to Edinburgh, where they were received with loud acclaims, and conducted, by a numerous proces- sion, to Holyroodhouse ; and a proclamation was now made that the kino-, being in his thirteenth year, had assumed the government, though a dif- ferent destination had been made by the Three Estates. Several lords, spiritual as well as temporal, and other persons, entered into an association to support (a) Maitland, 17. (b) Holinshed, 307. 610 As ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburyhshire. the king's administration, which he thus, under his mother's influence, prema- turely assumed (c). The queen made but an indifferent use of the power which she thus assumed. At the instigation of Wolsey, she committed the chancellor James Beaton, the archbishop of St. Andrews and Dunbar, the bishop of Aberdeen to Edinburgh castle, on the frivolous pretence that they were friends of Albany and enemies of England (d). This capricious princess seems not to have known that steadiness and moderation are the two pillars of legiti- mate government. She called a parliament at Edinburgh in November 1524. James Preston the provost, was one of the commissioners who opened the meeting of the Estates (e). As a representative of burghs, Preston was appointed one of the lords of the articles (/). While the parliament was thus sitting, the Earl of Angus, with other chiefs and four hundred armed followers, broke into Edinburgh ; at the cross, they proclaimed themselves to be good subjects ; and as a proof of their avowal, they went to the council of state, and required that the queen might be deprived of the guardianship of the infant king. The castle fired upon the town in order to expel the insurgents, and killed some innocent persons. Several nobles assembled a body of hackbutters, in order to assault Angus and his insurgents ; but upon receiving the king's order, that unscrupu- lous noble with his followers, withdrew to Dalkeith (g). The queen continued for some time in Edinburgh castle with her son, repenting, perhaps, her own imprudence, and fearing the violence of Angus (h). From this safe retreat, the queen issued a proclamation in January 1524-5, against her husband, Angus Beaton, the chancellor, who had now coalesced, and (c) The magistrates of Edinburgh entered into that association, which was signed by Francis Both- well, the provost ; James Preston, baillie : Edward Litil, the dean of guild ; and Alexander Nenthorn, the treasurer. The bond of the associators is in Calig. vi. 378. Bothwell, the provost, resigned his office at the king's desire, under a protest that his resignation should not be drawn into precedent. Lord Maxwell was chosen in his room. The king and the queen mother occupied the castle for then- residence. Lesley, 12-13, (d) They were liberated at the end of two months' imprisonment. Several other persons of less note were also confined in that state prison. (e) Pari. Eec. 543. (/) lb. 544. (g) Magnus's Letter to Wolsey. of the 26th November. Calig. b. i. 121. (k) Magnus's Letter to Batcliffe. Calig. B. i. 121. In 1524, on the day of All Saints, there happened a tremendous storm, which overthrew several houses in the town, and damaged the castle, blowing down the pinnacle of DaoicPs toicer. and firing the queen's lodging. Lesley, 414, intimates, that the bishop of Candida Casa's chamber was spared, while other buildings were over- thrown. Sect. VI.— Its Civil History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 611 other nobles who had convened at St. Andrews, in order to concert measures for depriving her of her rule and the custody of her son. In their turn, at the end of twenty days' deliberation and intrigue, they issued a declaration, setting forth with factious exaggeration, that the king was kept in Edinburgh castle, an unhealthy place, exposed to the moist air of the Nor-Loch, and threatened with the fury of storms ; and observing the danger of tumults in the capital, which themselves had raised, they ordained a convention to meet at Stirling on the 6th of the subsequent February. About that time, the magis- trates and people of Edinburgh invited Angus and Lennox into their town. The two nobles immediately repaired thither, attended by seven hundred men and followed by their partizans, who had resolved to hold their convention at Edinburgh, which adopted their designs, and offered protection to their sitting. Nor did the castle fire upon them, as their fears had apprehended, and misrepresentation had led them to expect. The queen now found it neces- sary to conciliate, and she entered into an agreement with Angus and the chancellor, by which she shared with them her patronage, and relinquished to them some of her power. By this reconcilement, which was settled by corruption, the infant king was to be removed from the castle to Holyrood- house, and to remain under the care of a council of nobles, which was to be appointed by parliament, and of which she was to be president. Two days after, on the 23rd of February 1524-5, the parliament assembled in the Tolbooth of Edinburgh, to which the king went in person ; having the crown borne before him by Angus, the sceptre by Arran, and the sword by Argyle. When the lords of the articles were chosen, Lord Maxwell, the provost of Edinburgh, and its commissary to the estates, was appointed one of that com- mittee of legislation. This is an example of the many anomalies which degraded the Scottish parliament, that a noble having a seat by birth, could sit as a commissioner by choice. The Estates now ratified the late agreement for the partition of patronage, and the division of power (i), and they ordained that the captain of the castle should not presume to fire, upon any occasion, without the authority of the council ; and that no gunners should enter it without the consent of the same council, which thus acquired the command of the citadel (k). (?) Pari. Rec. 547. (£) lb. 548. We may judge of the value of houses in the Scottish metropolis, at that epoch., by what Magnus, the English envoy, wrote to Wolsey in April 1525. " He had offered 20 marks Sterling of yearly rent for his house in Edinburgh." Calig. b. vii. 61. 612 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. Whatever may have been the influence of Edinburgh on the governments of James II. and James III., it became during the minority of James V. a constant scene of bloody tumult. We have already seen the contests of the Hamiltons, with Arran at their head, and the Douglases, who were conducted to violence by Angus. In 1525, the ascendency of this ambitious person was such, as to dictate to the metropolis and kingdom. At the election of that year, he caused his uncle Archibald Douglas to be chosen provost. Meantime, in July 1525, the artifice of Angus assembled a parliament at Edinburgh, for the purpose chiefly of ratifying the treaty with England. To this parliament, the queen mother, who was president of the council of regency, declined to come ; alleg- ing her fear of her husband Angus ; but he tried to satisfy her scruples, by offering security, that she might pass and repass through Edinburgh with her household during the sitting of parliament, and three days after its proroga- tion (I). From such traits of manners, we may perceive the bai'barousness of the age and the fury of faction. Under the same domination, the parlia- ment again assembled at Edinburgh on the 13th of June 1526 (m). Herein appeared Archibald Douglas, the provost of the town, who, from this circum- stance, was chosen one of the lords of the articles, and promoted the designs of his chief (n). Under this influence the Estates abolished the regency, by declaring the king's minority at an end when he became fourteen years of age (o) ; and they incidentally delivered the king and nation to the arbitrary rule of Angus (p). Under that influence, Archibald Douglas was chosen provost of Edinburgh, and its representative in the Estates ; and he was again, from that circumstance, chosen one of the committee of articles, which had so great an influence in the proposing of laws. When the delegates of the burghs brought the matter of the staple before the estates, Archibald (0 Pari. Eec. 551. (m) lb. 557. (n) Archibald Douglas was appointed principal searcher of the port of Leith, and in every other port within the kingdom. Ib. 562. He was also Treasurer of the Customarie of Edinburgh. Ib. 605. And he was treasurer to the king. (o) Ib. 558. There was a grant to John Chesholm of 401. yearly pension out of the great customs of Edinburgh, ratified by that parliament. Ib. 565. (p) Soon after, Patrick Blackader. the archdeacon of Dunblane, who came to Edinburgh under a safe conduct from Angus, was slain at the gates of the metropolis by the Homes and Douglases. Thomas Maclellan of Bombie was assassinated on the 11th July 1526, at the door of St. Giles's Church, by Sir James Gordon of Lochenvar, and Sir James Douglas of Drumlanrig, and seven-and- thirty followers. The principal assassins walked the streets of Edinburgh during the sitting of that parliament, under the protection of the Douglases. Christ. Dacre's Letter to Lord Dacre, dated 2d December. Calig. b. vi. 420 ; Crawf. Peer, 238. Sect, VI.— Its Civil History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 618 Douglas, the provost of Edinburgh was appointed to produce the contract thereupon, in the bishop of Aberdeen s lodgings (q). In November 1526, the queen, owing to her son's desire, returned to Edinburgh. The king, the nobles, and other persons rode out to meet her at Corstorphine ; and the whole cavalcade proceeded through the town to the palace of Holyrood (r). The queen greatly resembled her brother Henry VIII. in some of his most striking features. She was amorous ; she was capricious ; and in March 1527, she retired in disgust from Edinburgh, because Lady Avondale, her husband's mother, was not received at Court (s). In the subsequent September, she seems to have returned, when she resumed her influence over her youthful and affectionate son. They spent their Christmas together in Holyroodhouse. But she could not be long quiet. On some difference with Angus, she withdrew with her husband Henry Stewart, and his brother, to the refuge of Edinburgh castle. But Angus was not a man to be dismayed or disappointed, and he besieged this strength on the 27th of March 1528 ; and even brought the king to sanction the attack upon his mother. She now opened the gates, and throwing herself upon her knees before the king, she begged his protection for her hus- band and brother. Yet, Angus committed them prisoners to the castle ; whence they were released after a while by the king's order and his mother's solicitation (t). James V. bore the domination of the Douglases with extreme impatience. He freed himself by his own enterprise, after the attempts of his friends had failed. Residing at Falkland, under a slight superintendence he rode a fleet horse, accompanied only by a groom, to Stirling castle, where he found a secure retreat. The nobles crowded around him, a circumstance which evinces their hatred of the Douglases. Angus was then in Lothian ; Archibald Douglas, (q) Pari. Eec. 566. It was owing perhaps to the influence of the provost, that, on account of the great resort to Edinburgh, all persons were empowered to sell bread and flesh on the appointed market days of Edinburgh. Ib. 570. (r) The queen, said Christopher Dacre to Lord Dacre, on the 2d December 1526. lyes in the chamber where the duke lay [the deceased Duke of Ross, her youngest son.] The king lyes in the chamber above her all in a lodging. The king is amynded not to lye far from her ; nor will he never be far from her except he be either hunting or sporting. It is thought and spoken, during all this parliament time, that if the king do remain with the queen, the court will have a turn, for the king has no affection to the Earl of Angus or the Earl of Arran. Calig. b. vi. 420 ; Pink. Hist. ii. 478-9. (s) Magnus to Wolsey, on the 26th of March 1527. Calig. b. iii. 301. (t) Lesley, 427-8. 614 An ACCOUNT Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. the provost of Edinburgh, was then at Dundee ; the other Douglases, who had guarded the king, soon gave notice of his flight ; and they all repaired to the metropolis, the seat of their influence. Angus was disappointed, but not dismayed. He summoned his retainers to repair to his standard at Edinburgh, during the last week of June 1528, to confront the king and his friends at Stirling. But he soon found that the unfortunate have few friends. Yet, had he partizans in the royal councils, who betrayed the king's designs to his enemies (u). In the beginning of July, Angus and his followers marched from Edinburgh towards Stirling, to regain possession of the king's person. Nor, must be forgotten the parliamentary declaration on the 14th of June 1526, that the king's minority had terminated, and his own administration begun (x). On the road, Angus was met by a herald bearing the king's proclamation, which prohibited any of the Douglases or their followers from coming within six miles of the court. This denunciation, with the intelligence of the king's force at Stirling, disheartened the insurgents, who retreated to Linlithgow (y). The king was thus induced to advance upon their steps, and on the 6th of July 1528, attended by many bishops, nobles, and their armed followers, he marched forward to Edinburgh. The king, for some days, remained in the lodging of the archbishop of St. Andrews. On the 9th of July lie issued a proclamation, forbidding any of his subjects to hold any intercourse with Angus, his two brothers, or uncle ; and that none of their followers should remain within the capital, on pain of death (z). On the 11th and 13th of July, the king assembled his council " in the upper chamber of the Tolbooth ; " and deter- mined to call the parliament on the 2nd of September 1528. Lord Maxwell was chosen the provost of Edinburgh in the room of Archibald Douglas, who was summoned to appear in parliament on a charge of treason (a). The king now retired to Stirling, where he was more safe from surprise than at Edinburgh (b). Nor was this circumspection unfounded. Archibald Douglas, the uncle, and George Douglas, the brother of Angus, approached Edinburgh with some force and attempted to seize it; but Lord Maxwell, the provost, (w) Pari. Rec. 580-1, which represents those matters very differently from the common accounts, which suppose that the Douglases followed the king from Falkland palace to Stirling castle. (x) Pari. Rec. 558. (y) Pitscottie, 258. (z) Dacre's Letter to Wolsey. Calig. b. i. 17. (a) Pari. Rec. 580. (b) Dacre to Wolsey. Calig. b. i. 17. From that time to the meeting of parliament, the Douglases wasted Mid-Lothian, carrying the torch and sword through the estates of Cousland and Cranston, even to the walls of Edinburgh. Holinshed, 316 ; Drummond, 295. Sect. VI.— Its Civil History.} Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 615 surprised and defeated them (c). The object of this rebellious expedition was to prevent the meeting of parliament ; a traitorous motive, which was very familiar to Scottish factions. The parliament assembled, however, at Edinburgh, in respectable numbers, on the 2nd of September 1528, the appointed day. Lord Maxwell took his place, both as a lord of parliament, and as the commissioner of Edinburgh ; when he was chosen one of the committee of articles for concerting measures (d). The Earl of Angus, his brother George, his uncle Archibald, and some of their guilty followers, were forfeited as traitors (e). Preparations were imme- diately made to carry thiy forfeiture into full effect. Under the authority of parliament, the king summoned the whole fighting men of the southern shires, to attend him in arms at Edinburgh on the 7th of September, to march to Haddington (f). Meantime, Angus sent some cavalry, who burnt two villages in Lothian on the king's route ; saying, in the savage language of the times, that they would light him on his way (g). When such a spirit prevailed, we ought not to wonder that such traitors should aim their odious daggers at the king's life. On the 2nd of February 1528-9, the Douglases held a meeting at St. Leonard's chapel near Edinburgh, to concert the assassination of their sovereign, and it was agreed by them to enter the king's bed-chamber, and close the scene by a mortal blow (h). But, such secrets, which are entrusted to many can never be kept ; and such a plot, when once discovered, could not be easily executed. They were all forfeited, but could not be executed, and Archibald Douglas, when he secretly returned to Edinburgh and threw himself at the king's feet, was only exiled to France (i). The discovery of that plot, and the vigorous measures which were pursued against the men on the borders, seem to have given unusual quiet to Scotland, (c) Lassel's Letter to the Earl of Northumberland, 29th August. Calig. b. iii. 289 ; Drummond. 294. (d) Pari. Rec. 577-8. («) lb. 580-1. (/) lb. 578. () Keith, 8-9. In the same year. Calvin fled from France to Bale, where he wrote his Institution. In February 1538-9. there was a meeting of bishops at Edinburgh, who condemned various persons to be burnt for heresy, on the castle hilL lb. 9. In that year, Calvin was driven away from Geneva : he was received back in triumph ; and caused Servetus to be burnt for heresy. (?) Pitscottie, 291 ; Lesley, 445. (r) Sir David Lyndsay gives a poetical account of those events in his Deploration for the death of Queen Magdalene. (5) Pitscottie, 295. (r) Dunbar, the greatest of the Scottish poets, who flourished under James IY., in his Satin on Edinburgh, cried out schame upon the magistracy : - May nane pass throu your principal gaittis, For stink of haddockis and of scattis, For cryis of carlingis and debaittis, For fensive flyttingis of defame ; Think ye not schame ? Befoir strangeris of all Estaittis, That sic dishonour hurt your name.'" 618 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V — Edinburghshire. parliament which met at Edinburgh in March 1540-1, endeavoured, with honest diligence, " to mend those deformities," by passing an Act "touching "the reparations within the town of Edinburgh" (u). On the same day, another act was passed, requiring the meal-market to be removed from the High-street to " some honest place," where the king's people may convene for buying and selling, thereafter, such victuals (x). From domestic reforms the king's attention was soon drawn to foreign treaty. But as the negotiation ended in hostilities, he was induced to summon an army in October 1541, on the burgh-moor of Edinburgh ; and he thence marched, with thirty thousand men under corrupt leaders, to repel the invaders of his kingdom on the south (y). A similar event, but still more disastrous, at Sol way moss on the western border, where the Scottish army either surrendered or fled, converted the king's indignation into despair. From Caerlaverock he retired to Edinburgh, and thence to Falkland, where he died on the 14th of December 1542 (2) ; and he was buried in the south-east vault of the abbey church of Holyrood, by the side of his first wife, Magdalene of France. The unhappy king James V., was succeeded by his daughter, Mary Stewart, an infant of a week old. Henry VIII. instantly resolved to obtain possession of the person of the Scottish queen, either by force or artifice ; and for this end he entered into various intrigues, and a formal treaty (a). But he was (u) Pari. Bee. 634. The ruinous houses and wastes on the west side of Leith TVynd, were now directed to be built within a year and day, or the magistrates were required to cause the tenements to be appraised and sold ; and if no one should be found to buy and rebuild them, the magistrates were authorized to pull down the ruinous tenements, and with the materials to build a substantial wall from the Nether-Bow port to the Trinity college. As the east side of Leith Wynd belonged to the abbot and convent of Holyrood, the bailies of the Canongate were ordained to cause the same reparations to be done upon it ; and on account of the filth that arose by slaughtering of beasts on the east side, the magistrates of Edinburgh, and the Canongate, were required to forbid the same in future, under pain of confiscation of the flesh slain. (x) Pari. Eec. 635. There were enacted, at the same time, two laws, for enabling all persons to sell bread and fish in Edinburgh on three market days in every weeek. Ib. 637-8. (y) Lesley, 457. Pitscottie, 316, says, that the king marched from the burgh moor through Lothian to Falaw, and thence to Baiiawhaugh, near the kirk of Lauder, an ominous place, where the king held a council, when the peers refused to advance into England, intelligence having reached them that the English army, under Norfolk, had retreated from the Scottish territory. The king in- dignantly retired and dismissed his army. Lesley, 457. (z) Keith, x. ; Lesley, 459; Pitscottie, 276; and the monumental inscription in Monteith's Theatre of Mortality, ii. 5. («) Sir Ealph Sadler's Negociations, throughout. Sect. VI. — Its Civil History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. G19 too impatient to wait the slow fulfilment of his own stipulations for effecting his favourite object. Of his impatience more able men took their advantage. Owing to his breach of faith, the governor and council at Edinburgh, on the 23rd of September 1543, declared the treaty itself to be void (6). Henry was not a prince to bear such a disappointment without revenge, and on the 3rd of May 1544, the Earl of Hertford arrived in the Forth, with a numerous fleet and a large army. He landed at Royston, and took Leith (c). Edinburgh, the Abbey of Holyrood, and the palace adjoining, were burnt. After destroy- ing the pier of Leith and carrying off the ships, the English army set out on their return, by land, leaving "neither pyle, village, town, nor house in their way homewards, unburnt (d)." As there seems to have been no resist- ance, it was easy to deliver to devastation the country and the towns. In May 1545, a reinforcement arrived at Leith from France, under the command of Lorge Montgomery. A general council assembled at Edinburgh, on the 28th of June, when an army of fifteen thousand men were ordered to assemble on Roslin moor, and soon after marched to the borders, with their French auxiliaries (e), but without performing any exploit worthy of their ancient fame. In May and July, 1547, there were two several arrays of the fighting men (b) Keith, 32. Meantime, a civil war arose within the Scottish metropolis. The election of the magistrates had long been confined to the merchants, an exclusion which roused the jealousy of the tradesmen. Violent contests naturally ensued. On the 11th of August 1543, the magistrates having passed an ordinance, which seemed to infringe the privileges of the craftsmen, were opposed in the town-house by their deacons, who drew their swords, with an avowed purpose to defend their liberties. An armed force rescued the magistrates, and the deacons were imprisoned. The craftsmen arrayed themselves in defence of their deacons. The Regent Arran was obliged to interpose; and after various commitments, this troublesome collision of urban irascibility seems to have ended by some com- promise. (c) Keith, 46 ; Amot's Edin. 18-19. (d) The contemporary accounts in Dalziel's Fragments, 9. That ancient author has left a veiy use- ful detail of the prodigious mischief which was done in Edinburghshire during the Earl of Hertford's campaign of 1544. The town of Edinburgh, with the Abbey of Holyrood, and the king's palace adjoining, were burnt. The town of Leith was burnt and the haven destroyed. The castle and village of Craigmillar were burnt. The Abbey of Newbotle was burnt. Part of Musselburgh, with the chapel of Loret, were burnt. Roslin castle was burnt. Laureston, with the grange, near Edinburgh, were burnt. Inverleith, with the pile and town, were burnt. Broughton, near Edinburgh, was destroyed. Cramond, Dudiston, The Ficket, Stonhouse, Chesterhall, Drylaw, and Wester-Crag, were all destroyed. Ib. 11-12. (e) Keith, 47-8. Cardinal Beaton called a provincial council of the clergy to meet at Edinburgh, in the Blackfriars church, on the 13th of January 1545-G, to reform the principles and practice of the clergy. Ib. 41. 620 An ACCOUNT [ Ch . V. — Edin b h rgk ai ire. of the southern shires assembled at Edinburgh (f) ; yet, the protector Som- erset entered Scotland in September 1547. And he soon after defeated the Scottish powers, with such superiority of advantage, as seemed to deliver the country into his hands without further resistance (g). The invading foe now attempted Edinburgh, destroyed Leith, took Dalkeith, and retired homeward, carrying fire and sword through a wretched land. In May 154S, Desse brought from France a reinforcement of six thousand men to a feeble government and a distracted people. After a while he marched from Edinburgh, with the allied troops, to fight their old enemies on Pinkie- field ; but the English army retired before superior numbers to Haddington, where they were unsuccessfully besieged, in autumn 1S48. Yet the English, by driving the young queen to France, lost the great object of the war, which was as absurd in its principle as it was wasteful in its practice. Meantime, Desse threw up some works at Inveresk, as an advanced post for Leith and Edin- burgh (h). But he withdrew his ai*niy into the metropolis during the winter, when such bloody tumults ensued between the soldiers and the townsmen, as obliged him to withdraw towards Haddington, which he in vain attempted to surprise. The French general now fortified Leith, in order to keep up a necessary communication with France. The fortification, however, did not prevent the English fleet from approaching Leith, in June 1549, from seizing some ships, and from fortifying Inch-Keith, which was garrisoned by the English ; and soon after taken by the French (i). Those inefficient, yet waste- ful struggles, during a war of revenge rather than of policy, were closed by a peace, which was concluded between the belligerent parties, on the 24th of (/) Keith, 52. (g) Patten's Account, 54 — 70. (h) On the 10th of January 1548-9, the privy council ordered a fort to be built at Inveresk. The town of Edinburgh was directed to furnish 300 workmen, with proper tools, for six days. The same council ordained that every plough of eight oxen, between Linlithgow and Haddington, should furnish a man, properly provided with entrenching tools, during the same time of six days ; and every patch plough [a plough laboured in common by several people] to furnish two men, under pain of forty shillings, for every such plough. MS. Extracts from the Privy Council Eec. Keith's App. 57. In the governor and council's answer, on the 22d of April 1550, to the French Memorial, they intimated that, to save charges, the fort of Inveresk would be kept by the abbot of Dunfermline upon caution, and that the king of France would put garrisons into Dunbar, Black- ness, Broughty Castle, and Inch-Keith, for commanding the entrance into the principal rivers. Keith's Hist. 63. (t) On the 29th of Jane 1549, the Inch [island] between Leith and Kingorne, was wonne from the Englishmen by the Frenchmen. Birrel's Diarv. Sect. VL— /to Ci'iiV History.] Of XOETH-BBITAIX. 621 March 1549-50 ; and which was soon after proclaimed at Edinburgh (k). The French troops immediately returned to France, except the garrisons of Inch- Keith and Dumbarton ; and in September 1550, the queen Dowager, with many of the Scottish nobles, followed them in the fleet which Strozzi conducted to Leith for that purpose (I). In December 1551, the dowager queen returned through England to Edinburgh, where she was received by the governor and nobles with distinguished honours (m). At Edinburgh, on the 26th of January 1551-2, was assembled a provincial council of the clergy, which ordained that a catechism should be published in the English tongue, for explaining the great duties of Christianity, as they are contained in the commandments, the belief, and the common prayer (n). The object of the queen dowager's voyage to France soon began to appear by the effects of her intrigues. The Duke of Chatelherault agreed to resign to her ambition the regency of her daughter's kingdom. To effectuate this consequential object, the parliament was assembled at Edinburgh on the 10th of April 1554 ( mean a condescension for princes,'' says he, " to debate things on a level with their subjects, and 636 An ACCOUNT Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. and Mary grant a full power to the same envoys, dated on the 2d of June 1560, a month later to treat with the Scottish insurgents ? The insurgents them- selves say they did, however improbable in itself, and inconsistent with the acknowledged authority of the 2d of May. The power of the 2d of June was not necessary to the end, as every thing could be done under the power of the 2d of May, which could be performed under that of the 2d of June. To send such a document from France after the envoys to Scotland was not a reasonable act. Being unreasonable and therefore absurd, it is not to be believed that such a full power was ever granted by Francis and Mary, or received by their envoys; and, there thus appears to be abundant reason to believe that the sup- posed full power of the 2d of June 1560 had never any existence, except in the obvious fabrication of the insurgent chiefs (a). Murray made such proposals as, in Cecil's opinion, were neither fit for princes to grant nor subjects to ask." Camden, in Kennet, 282. This was copied by Camden from Cecil's letter of the 21st of June. Caligula as above. And in the full power of Francis and Mary to treat with Elizabeth, the insurgents of Scotland are expressly called rebels. (a) There is a translated copy of that paper in Keith, 143, from the Cotton Library. It appears to be chiefly a repetition of the real full power of the previous 2nd of May, empowering the envoys of Francis and Mary to treat only with the envoys of Elizabeth for the restoration of tranquility ; and in addition to the real full power goes on thus : " And in like manner " to give assurance to our subjects of the kingdom of Scotland that notwithstanding they have of " late committed so grevious a crime as to forget their duty towards us, if nevertheless they shall " repent and return to the obedience which they owe to us, we are willing to receive them into " favour, because we are desirous of nothing more than to see them living under obedience to " us, and in peace, union, and tranquility, together." And then follows a clause of deputation, for which the whole paper seems to have been fabricated : " And generally to do in the premises " the circumstances and dependencies thereof all and sundry things which we ourselves would or " could do if we were personally present, even although something should fall out which might " appear to require a more special instruction than is contained in these presents.'' This last clause was merely copied from the power of the 2nd of May preceding. Eym., xv., 581. But in diplomacy such general expressions must be limited by the previous premises, otherwise an envoy might carry out his authority without bounds ; and in this supposed commission the premises were the restoring of tranquility to Scotland, and the means were, of course, universal pardon and particular favour. The very conception of this second power, dated the 2nd of June, seems to have arisen in the minds of Murray, [James Stewart], Lethington, and Cecil, after the 21st of June 1560, the date of Cecil's very remarkable letter to Elizabeth from Edinburgh, suggesting the impossibility of obtaining certain points for the insurgents. This letter is in the Cotton Library. Calig., b. 10, and Keith, App., 49. This power appears to have been now hastily fabricated, for there is a gross anachronism in the date of the commission, being the 16th year of Mary's reign instead of the 18th. Keith, 144. The whole matter might be thus put to Cecil. The English envoys negotiated the whole treaty of Edinburgh as they were empowered ; in this case the whole Sect. VI.— Its Civil History.] Of NOR TH-BRITAIN. 037 When the heart and hand of forgery is busy, in any age, it is not easy to ascertain falsehood from truth. We may see in Haynes the successive intima- tions of Cecil, while his artful mind was busily employed at Edinburgh in carrying on a double negotiation with whatever view of gratifying his passion for intrigue or benefiting his fastidious mistress without her knowledge. Owing to the artifices of this able minister it thus becomes very difficult to distinguish what was the true result of the treaty of Edinburgh with regard to Scotland. From Castelnau we may learn, indeed, what were given out by agreement as its stipulations for putting an end to the war of Scotland (6). The writers of the same age, as they all differ in their notices, are not much more instructive than Castelnau. What was given by the insurgent chiefs to Cecil, and by him, after a while, or by his direction, was deposited in the Cotton Library, and has long been published (c). And whether what has thus been obtruded on the world as genuine, and has been reprobated as spurious, needs not be elaborately investigated, as the envoys had no power to negotiate with the insurgents, as they had no power to make such a treaty by agreeing to such concessions, and as Francis and Mary never ratified a treaty which subverted the constitution of the State, which transferred their stipulations ought to have been executed by the signatures and seals of the envoys of the con- tracting powers, and thus ought to have been deposited in the Archives of England. Or, as the fact seems to be, that the envoys of Francis and Mary negotiated a distinct treaty with the insurgent chiefs ; but in this case there was no power given to hold such a treaty, as the fabricated power required the treaty to be with the envoys of Elizabeth ; and these intimations lead to the conclusion that Cecil basely colleagued with the insurgent chiefs to impose a fabrication and falsehood upon England and Scotland, and upon the sovereigns of both \ upon Elizabeth as well as upon Mary. The memory of Cecil is chai-geable also with an additional offence of aggravated baseness. By filling the Archives of England with forgeiies he has contaminated the fountain-head of history. (b) Castelnau, p. 91, of the English edition. This intelligent memoir-writer, though he had not the treaty before him, perceived clearly " from the event, that France had lost and the English had got Scotland by the war." (c) See those concessions in Keith's Hist. 137, and there would be little doubt about their general tenor, if Murray, Euthven and Lethington, who at the same time certified the truth of the annexed full power, which is a palpable forgery, could be believed. They set out in the preamble with a false- hood, and the articles of this treaty are so extraordinary in themselves, that we might presume the envoys of Francis and Mary, who are praised by Cecil for their acuteness and energy, did not under- stand the extent of their sovereign's powers, nor the meaning of their own stipulations. I have seen in the Paper Office, P. 20, T. No. 20, a memorial in Cecil's hand, dated at Newcastle, on the 10th June 1560, of "things to be demanded by the Scots only" Here, then, is the conception of Cecil, what ought to have been asked by the Scots ; and what was granted was so different, that we are thus furnished with an additional proof of the forgery. 4 4 M 638 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. undoubted sovereignty to their insurgent subjects, and which laid the inde- pendency of Scotland, which had cost so many struggles, at the feet of Elizabeth (d). With regard to this treaty, which had so little authority for its basis, the opinions of men were various. When we hear so judicious a writer as Camden saying that it established the liberty, and such an author as Burnet that it removed the tyranny of Scotland, we are left to lament that history so often sacrifices sense to sound. This truth will appear by a slight examination of the first article of the Edinburgh treaty. It proceeds upon the complaint of the insurgents of the number of soldiers which had been kept up in times of peace, and it goes on to stipulate that neither French nor any foreign troops shall thereafter be introduced by the king and queen without the advice of the Estates. This article was beneficial to England but not to Scotland, which might be over-run before such advice could be obtained ; it gave superiority to insurgency over law, and by limiting the legal authority of the sovereign the just power of the State was enfeebled. The marriage of Francis and Mary identified them as one person. In confirmation of that union the Estates of Scotland, only two years before, had identified the two kingdoms of Mary and Francis ; and under the authority of the Estates, Francis and Mary had a better right to send troops from Paris to Edinburgh, than Elizabeth's title to send troops from London to Dublin. The necessary result, then, of this clause of the treaty of Edinburgh was to repeal what the Estates had enacted and to weaken the existing system of law, to exalt insurrection over authority, and to leave the whole people enthralled by triumphant faction, to subdue the mind to intolerance, and to elevate fanaticism over reason. We now perceive, in the practice of Camden and Burnet, how history can write without meaning, and even venture to substitute mis-statement for truth. It were equally easy to show that this whole treaty was a continued sacrifice of the constitution of the State to the innovations of insurgency, and a surrender of legal rights to the usurpations of the most daring violences. The treaty of Edinburgh, which thus gave temporary quiet to Scotland, was proclaimed on the 5th of July 1560 (e). On the 15th of the same month Leith was dismantled, on the morrow the troops embarked, and on the (d) Haynes, 354-57. (e) Haynes, 353. The Lord James Stewart and Lethington, seem to have been the appropriate negotiators on the part of the insurgent chiefs under the management of Cecil. Ib. 333. Two com- missioners from Edinburgh town appear to have been appointed, but they were not much attended to. Sect. VI.— Its Civil History.] Of NORTH- BRITAIN. 639 subsequent day, the English envoys departed for their own country (/). By the assumed authority of the reformed preachers, a thanksgiving was held on the 19th of July, in St. Giles's church, the ancient kirk of Edinburgh, for such a treaty as left them free to domineer over every mind throughout an enthralled kingdom. Under an authority equally assumed by some of the nobles, barons, and burghs, a sort of ecclesiastical establishment was made, which gave to Lothian John Spottiswoode for its superintendent, and to Edinburgh, John Knox for its minister (amire from France, by the two parties which then divided Scotland — the Protestant and the Papist, — and she had privately determined to put her affairs into Protestant hands, knowing that she :•:•-££ zz:z -?~z : ded. zj mea-s :z :ae II : mar. Catholics. without ar. hisurree- tion, with Elizabeth for its patron. The Lord James Stewart bad returned to Scotland with assurances of being her minister, and we see him attempting to trite" her palace from insult during her private devotions, on the first Sun- day after her arrival (f). Under this minister, the chief of the insurgents were izl:z'-'----.-~ ~~ ?..Vf s rt'-'. : ziizzzzist zzz." St— .e r:~~ s-z. izz-enz^zzzz :: Kzzzzz'i Z'Z~Z-Zizz:z :: el: — ' : ; •■; rf. • ■ -~_Lz~z — e Tc:v -.: x vhi: ire z:~ ziZzi :: ■:. . \>i : —z Iner-le :-: e~erj~:~ ~r i^zzz ^iz^z zj _:.— . (a) Keith, 189. (f ) Hai&ad, 2L (r) So Baadofoh wrote to GecQ «&e7Aof frpfermhrr 1361. Knox says. 316, thai - an the day ajp: tie .. : ~zi reoei~?i zz tie z.zsz.i . -le.re.s-; jre z.zrzzz :■- = —ere :_sie ::: he: e-rrj zzz: :_e ::— ir. iizz-r- zzz - • :-/r- 2 zzzz zz'zsz t: ■:•£.: r^--^. Faix v ; i ; • PraMe. - («) Keith, 187. (f) TW lod Jaaaa, as In warn laat ia 1530, the pabane n of Ja aiiu-t^:rr.e"^ jes: it_l :; : :zr~e rsrel-cr resr; :Ii=r ~ " '.~ ile ;-e*er- 1: :- le :e-:-e:-e-£ nni :: r_:- — :r:r_ lie ---- ^ H; C:mr_ Ze-p?:er :; lie 4il .'-> -i ie Sri zz Deoe-'rer. 1552." aafor Seoefaoy Cecil, at the fancy of Eaubngk. -Ye M t saa :- :le i J ri :: 7— e Ic-Tl ir. tie 3: '5 «~;r zzzz zzi L:ri Lel" : - :•e '— 3 rzttle tt::~:^t;::i agsirst s^sv the kiiLr - :::e. Lt did the assembly of the kirk give in a testimony to the same effect. The state and church were both declared to be useless, and their conduct offensive ; and they soon received from their com- missioners at Tjondon, the following result of their absurd mission, as appears from Mr. Professor Mackay s MS. : ■ Sight reverend ad Hone naHe. This day. about two of the clock in the afternoon, his majesty " was brought out at the window of the balcony of the banqueting-house of Whitehall, near which a -** stage was set up, and his head was struck off with an axe ; wherewith we hold it our duty to inform " you : and so being in haste, we shall say no more at this thxe ; but that we remain, your most affec- - ti:-ite frieris. Lcthiar — J:. CLei^he. — E;. Ehvir." Covent Garden, ) 30th January 1649.) Sect. YL — Its Civil History.] Of XOBTH-BRITAIN. 691 mental confusion had arisen, from the absurd casuistry of political and religious anarchy during so many wretched years (1). The public affairs of a ruined people had now become quite inextricable, from the discordant opinions and profligate conduct of so many clergy and nobles. "Wanting a pageant, they invited Charles II. to become their covenanted king ; and, on the 15th of July 1650, was he proclaimed king at the cross of Edin- burgh But a very different personage was now at hand, who established the quiet of Scotland by the unhallowed means of its subjugation. Cromwell passed the Tweed on the 22d of July 1650, and, marching forward through Lothian, encamped on the Pentland ridge above Edinburgh. The Scottish army then lay at Corstorphine, under Lesley ; but they soon moved to a more secure position, between Edinburgh and Leith, where they entrenched themselves, protected on either flank by the batteries on Calton hill and by the fortifica- tions of Leith. Cromwell, finding this camp to be impregnable, while the caution of Lesley allowed him no advantage, retired first to Musselburgh, and afterward retreated to Dunbar. By knowing the country, Lesley was enabled to seize the passes of the Lammermuir before Cromwell could pass their defiles. On the 3d of September 1650, however, the ecclesiastical commissaries attending the Scottish army, by obliging Lesley to leave his strong position, and to fight a doubtful field, delivered the Scottish army into Cromwell's hands. Edinburgh was now subdued by its own fears, and was left by the magistrates without a government (n). On the 7th of the same month Cromwell took possession of Leith and Edinburgh, invested the castle, and seized the fortlets of Roslin and Borthwick ; and at the end of three months, Edinburgh castle surrendered by capitulation (o). At the expiration of fifteen months' absence, the town council resumed the government froni those citizens who had ruled pru- dently during the necessary inattention of the constituted authorities. They probably found leisure, during their flight, to reflect how much, by their own follies, they had contributed to the conquest of their city and the subjugation of the kingdom. (7) The historians of Edinburgh speak with indignation of the dishonesty of the citizens and the knavery of the clergy. Maitl. Edin. 87-91 ; Amot, 123. In a statement of the debts of the city, in 1690, the above debt of £40,000 was charged £60,000. While the magistrates were pre- paring to receive Charles II., they went out, accompanied by the hangman, to introduce the great Montrose, who was executed at their cross with every circumstance of brutal exultation. Arnot, 129-30-1. (m) On the arrival of Charles II., in pursuance of the negotiation at Breda, the city of Edinburgh presented him with £20,000 Scots. Maitl. Edin. 110. (n) Maitl. Edin. 89. (o) Arnot, 135 ; Heath's ChroD. 280. 692 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. The English commissioners for ruling Scotland arrived at Dalkeith in January 1652, and the citizens found it necessary to ask their consent, before they chose their own magistrates ; so fallen were they, after dictating to their legitimate sovereign, and after feeling the humiliation of conquest (p). As they were now freed from the domination of the clergy, and were not oppressed by Cromwell, who had other objects, the citizens enjoyed more quiet, as well as security, than they had possessed for many a wretched year of covenanted domination. They saw, however, English people settle at Leith, under the encouragement of Cromwell, who here built a citadel at a great expense (q). Scotland now enjoyed unusual quiet, under the strong arm of positive conquest, by her ancient adversaries. The clergy were at length restrained from their accustomed calumnies. Justice was equally administered by strangers, who did not enter into party connections with which they were unacquainted. And the whole people began to breathe, after such terrible agitations ; their minds being freed from the tyranny of the clergy ; their persons being secui'ed from the outrages of faction ; and their estates being safe from exactions beyond their abilities. So completely had the nation been exhausted by so many efforts which were beyond its powers, there was scarcely a person or a community in that kingdom which could pay their debts. The city of Edin- burgh owed £55,000 sterling, which it was unable to satisfy. Such was the debilitated state of Scotland, when Monk marched, in December 1559, into England, with perhaps no very predetermined design, though he undoubtedly meant well. The conquest of Scotland, and its union with England, had scarcely left it any constituted authorities, who could concur in the meditated Restoration. After the two houses of parliament in England had determined to settle the civil government in the ancient channel, the town council of Edinburgh addressed a letter to the king, on the 11th of May 1660, which was signed by Sir James Stewart, the lord provost. The citizens lament that the iniquity of the times had so long prevented them from tendering their faithful service ; they declared their concurrence with those who had prudently laid themselves out to settle the king upon the throne of his dominions ; and they rejoiced that they might now expect, from their lawful prince, a redress of those grievances under which they had so long fainted (r). Thomson, the town clerk of Edinburgh, was (p) Maitl. Edin. 89. (?) Maitl. Edin. 91-6. (r) From their feelings, they assured the king that, " the land had been impoverished, sub- dued, and kept in bondage, by that party who hath invaded us upon the account of adhering Sect. VL — Its Civil History.'] Of NOBTH-BBITAIN. 693 the only authorized person who waited on the king from Scotland. He was received with the most gracious acceptance. He appears to have had some authority on that occasion from the royal burghs, in whose name he presented " a poor myte of a thousand poundss terling (s)," which yet was one-tenth of the city of London's gift. So great was the joy at Edinburgh when the citizens heard of the king's arrival in England, that they caused a sumptuous banquet to be made at their market cross. The king was so pleased with all those attentions, that he ratified some of their old privileges, and promised a confirmation of their several rights (t) ; but it was not till the 22d of August 1660, that the king abolished the English tribunals in Scotland (?/), re-established its ancient forms of government, appointed the officers of state, and directed a parliament to meet at Edinburgh, to whom he referred the preparing of an act of indem- nity, to save from legal penalties a guilty nation. The keeping of Christmas at Edinburgh by persons of all degrees, except a few ministers, was deemed a proof of the renovation of rationality over fanaticism (x). The parliament assembled at Edinburgh on the 1st of January 1661, under Lord Middleton, as the king's commissioner. The constitution was now restored with the king's legal authority. The public transactions during the last three-and-twenty years were reprobated as grossly unwarrantable. The acts of the seven parliaments, which sat from 1640 to 1648, were rescinded as unconstitutional in their commencements and violent in their proceedings. to your majesty, the true religion established among us hath been exposed to hazard by the deluges of error and division, for which a door was kept open by that power which held us under." Yet, the magistrates of Edinburgh had concurred very zealously in the factious follies, which, during three- and-twenty years, had involved the country in desolation, and drenched it in blood. Nor is it easy to find a single person of any consequence in Scotland who can fairly be considered as guiltless of the ruin of their country, so general were the delusions of the covenant ; all but the doctors of Aberdeen, who are so emphatically commended by Clarendcn for the superiority of their learning, and the firm- ness of their spirit. (i) Sir William Lower, in his relation of the king's proceedings in Holland, from the 25 th of May to the 2d of June 1660, does not notice the town clerk's acceptance with the king; nor, indeed, the approach of any person from Scotland, though the Earl of Lauderdale is said to have repaired to the king soon after he was discharged from his imprisonment. Lauderdale was, in consequence, appointed Secretary of State for Scotland. On the 3d of March 1660, the Earls of Crawford, Lauderdale, and Lord Sinclair, were released from their imprisonment in Windsor castle. (t) Maitl. Edin. 96-7. (u) Law and government were never better administered in Scotland than by those English Tribunals. (u) The Kingdom's Intelligencer, No. 1. 4 4 T 694 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. The motive which was assigned by the parliament for annulling the trans- actions of so many parliamentary meetings, was " that all the miseries which "this kingdom had groaned under during three-and-twenty years, were the " necessary consequences of the invasions by pretending reformation, (the " common cloak, say the parliament, of all rebellions), on the royal autho- rity (y). Such, then, was the sober opinion of the Scottish legislators at the end of more than twenty years of innovation and fanaticism, of warfare and conquest, when they had learned wisdom in the school of adversity. The parliament, at this sitting, passed various laws of domestic economy, which tended to employ the people after so many years of idleness (z) ; and the Estates settled a revenue on the king during his life, for the necessary charge of his Scottish government, whereof the town and county of Edinburgh raised a sixth (a). In that first parliament of Charles II., there passed an act ratifying to Edinburgh its new charter of confirmation, its power of regality over the Canongate, and its customs, which were collected at the toll-house in in the moor (6). The parliament again assembled at Edinburgh on the 8th of May 1662. The practices of late times appear to have dictated almost all the laws of this parliament. The ancient government of the church by archbishops and bishops was now re-established (c). An act was passed for preserving the king's person and authority, wherein the late leagues and covenants were censured as immoral, and nullified as illegal (d). A declaration of fidelity (y) See the statutes of the first Pari. Charles II. See the several statutes among the acts of this session. (a) Of that sum, Edinburgh, the Canongate, and Leith, raised £3,732 ; Edinburgh county £2,660 ; which amounted to £6,392, whereof the town raised a tenth. In 1663, the parliament settled the proportions of the excise for three months. Of the whole £29,325 16s., the shire of Edinburgh was to pay £2,140; and the town £2,923; and thus again the town paid one tenth of the whole, and the shire more than one sixth. In 1667, the convention of estates gave a voluntary aid of £72,000 a-month ; which were assessed on the 33 shires at £60,000, and the 62 burghs at £12,000 ; the town of Edinburgh at £5,320 ; being much more than one third of the whole burghs, and the shire of Edinburgh, at £3,183 8s. In 1663, the parliament made a voluntary offer of 20,000 infantry and 2,000 cavalry ; whereof Edinburghshire furnished 800 infantry and 74 cavalry ; and Edinburgh and Leith furnished 800 infantry. In these proportions of men, the counties of Haddington and Berwick were equal to Edinburghshire, though they were much below it in the supplies of money. (b) Unprinted Acts, (c) Act, No. 1. (d) lb. No. 2. The proceedings of the Glasgow assembly in 1638, were specifically annulled as sedi- tious and unlawful. Sect. VI.— Its Civil History.} Of NORTH-BRITAIN. f,95 was prescribed to all persons in public trust (e). There was passed the usual act of revocation, of acts done or rights granted during the king's minority (/) ; and there was passed an act of pardon and oblivion, with very few excep- tions, considering the multitude of the guilty and the enormity of the crimes. But such laws were enacted in vain, when so many persons in Scotland denied the authority of the temporal legislature, and professed obedience only to their spiritual superiors. In this state of men's minds the votaries of the late covenant carried their dis- contents into insurrection. They disarmed some of the king's troops in Dumfries. They now marched under such leaders as they could find to Lanark, and thence proceeded towards Edinburgh. The city was now put into a posture of defence. The gates were barricaded ; no one was allowed to go out without a passport ; the neighbouring gentlemen were called in for its protection ; and the College of Justice armed its members, in support of the law against insur- gency. The privy council sent General Dalziel to suppress the insurgents. They were at length encountered by the king's troops at Rullion-Green, among the Pentland hills, on the 28th of November 1666. Fifty of them were killed, a hundred and thirty were made prisoners, and the remaining fanatics were dispersed. On the 7th of December, ten of the rebellious enthusiasts were executed at Edinburgh, avowing their disobedience to the king and the laws, and glorying in their fanaticism and fate. Their avowed motive was adherence to the covenant, in opposition to law, according to the maxims which had come down to them from their fathers, who had been instructed by Knox in the Genevan principles and practice. Under such maxims, quiet could not exist within the land, where the law and the populace stood opposed to each other. As the practice of assassination had also come down from their fathers to the fanatics, one Mitchel, in attempt- ing to murder the archbishop in Edinburgh streets, wounded the bishop of Orkney. After a while he was irregularly tried, and corruptly condemned, though of his enormous guilt there could be no doubt. On the day of his execution, the women of Edinburgh assembled to rescue this odious assassin ; but he was too powerfully guarded to admit of female deliverance (A). Throughout this guilty reign, the law and the lower orders constantly opposed each other. The covenanted ministers and their wretched disciples avowed t (e) Act, No. 5. (/) lb. No. 8. (g) lb. No. 10. (h) Arnot's Edin. 148-50; and see the Ravillac Redivivus of the celebrated Doctor Hk-kes. 696 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. the most dangerous doctrines, and practised the basest actions (i). The rulers of those infatuated people could find no other measures for restraining enthusiasm and inducing acquiescence, than the threats of death and the violences of coercion. The government was thus violent and severe, while the populace were disobedient and obstinate. A standing army left the metropolis, in the meantime, no other measures than pliability and subservience (k). Those anarchical proceedings were not altogether confined to the church. A schism existed within the College of J ustice. During an age when so much of the law was either unknown or uncertain, it was a litigated point whether an appeal lay from the Court of Session, which seems to have come in the place of the judicial power of the parliament, to the king and his estates (I). The king, upon reviewing the whole matter, and wishing to preserve the authority of the court, directed the advocates to acquiesce, or to be debarred from their functions. The advocates refused to acquiesce, and they were joined by forty other advocates, who deserted the bar, avowing the same opinions. The contumacious counsellors were now ordered by the privy (t) In 1681, the government published an impartial account of the confessions of the conspirators, in order to expose to the world the wild opinions., both as to religion and law, which were avowed and practised by the deluded followers of the covenanted ministers. On the 5th of May 1684, there was published a proclamation, with a list of Fugitives, which has been transcribed into Wodrow's App. No. xciv. It shows, with satisfactory evidence, that the persons who defied the laws and pretended to dictate to the church, were servants, low tenants, weavers, shoemakers, tailors and other tradesmen ; but there were among them scarcely any landlords or any persons of the learned professions, and only a few vagrant preachers, with the women, who were fugitives for receiving the guilty. Men and women of somewhat higher ranks of life may have approved of the covenanted practices, though they did not think fit to appear openly in the same cause. (1c) The town council gave large sums of money to the profuse and profligate Lauderdale for his good offices. Mait. Edin., 99. And the king was induced to restore to the citizens the right of choos- ing their own magistrates, as well as to give them, by charter, additional privileges. Id. (/) The king's proclamation, dated the 12th of December 1674, flings some light on this obscure subject, which has been misunderstood by ill-formed history. It recites, that having learned that the Earl of Aboyne had appealed from the lords of our council and session to Us and our Estates of parlia- ment ; and this being a strange and unaccustomed practice, the lords did require the advocates, in this appeal, to give their oaths whether they had advised such an appeal. But this request the advocates refused ; and instead of justifying that appeal, gave in a paper stating another kind of appeal, having only the effect of a protestation for remeid of law without sitting process. The court and the advo- cates wrote to the king justifying their several proceedings. The king decided in favour of the court, and declined to receive any appeal to him and his Estates • and he quoted the statute of James II., which seems to preclude such appeals ; and he instanced the refusal of the parliament of October 1663, who refused to review a decision of the court of session. The above proceedings were censured by the Convention of 1689. Sect. VI.— Its Civil History.] Of NORTH-BEIT AIN. 697 council, acting under the king's command, not to remain within twelve miles of Edinburgh, while they refused obedience to the Court of Session. This juridical schism would alone show the high passion of the times, if so many rebellions upon the avowed principle of disregarding the authority of the king and the laws did not evince the complete anarchy of those terrible times. The youth adopted some of the principles of the old. At Christmas 1680, the students of the College resolved to burn the effigy of the pope, in contempt perhaps of the Duke of York's religion. The magistrates of Edinburgh interposed, and a tumult ensued. The College was now shut up, and the students were required to depart twelve miles from this tumultuous city. The College, however, was soon opened, and the students were again admitted. Yet is there reason to believe that some of those students set fire to the lord provost's house of Priestfield (a), and by such an action evinced more malignity than usually actuates youthful minds. In the midst of those events, the Duke of York came to Edinburgh during the year 1679, as a sort of banishment from court. The magistrates entertained him magnificently. He tried, by every agreeable art, to please and to be pleased (b). He introduced the drama and other elegant amusements, which, had they been steadily practised, might have been attended with salutary con- sequences. They would have gradually corrected the sour and sullen temper of the populace, which positive statute can never correct, and acrimonious edicts can only increase. But he did not remain at Edinburgh long enough for the application of such correctives, or to show how much could be effected by popular attentions (c). (a) Arnot's Edin. 392. (b) Mait. Edin., 286-9. (c) The following dates will exhibit more distinctly than any history, the Duke of York's scanty intercourse with Edinburgh. On the 27th of October 1679, the duke set out for Scotland. On the 28th of January 1680, the king declared in council that he would send for the duke, finding no good effects from his absence. On the 24th of February, the duke and duchess came to court. On the 20th of October 1680, they set out for Scotland. On the 22d of June 1681, the king sent a deputation to the duke to be his commissioner to the parliament of Scotland. On the 11th of March 1683, the duke met the king at Newmarket. On the 3d of May 1683, the duke embarked on board the Gloucester frigate for Scotland ; on the 5th of May she struck on the sand called the Lemon and Oar ; on the 7th, however, he arrived at Edinburgh ; he changed the officers of state ; and he returned to London on the 27th of the same month. The privy council, on the 2d of November 1680, thanked the king for the favour of sending the duke to Scotland. In February of the subsequent year, amid frost and snow, the duke made an excursion from Edinburgh to Linlithgow, Fal- kirk, and Stirling ; and he was every where received with welcome, entertainments, and applause. 698 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. On the 23th of August 1681, he held a parliament, in person, at Edinburgh. The statutes of this session seem to have been dictated by the sad state of the country. All former laws for the security of the protestant religion were confirmed. The right of the succession to the crown was asserted in such terms as to comprehend the duke, notwithstanding any difference in his religion. A new supply was voluntarily offered. An act for securing the peace of the country was passed, with a view to those unhappy people who carried up their zeal for the covenant to positive frenzy. This was followed by an act against assassinations, which were practised and avowed by the same zealots. But the statute which was attended by the greatest consequences was the test act, and which imposed an oath so complicated as to be unin- telligible without much study. Such were the laws enforcing protestantism, which were now enacted under the papistical commissioner. With the excep- tion of some laws of domestic economy, the statutes of this session show the statesmen to have been full as fanatical, though in a different extreme, as the wildest of the populace. It is not to be lamented that the Estates, while actuated by such a spirit, did not again sit during the present reign. Of the infelicities of those times, Edinburgh felt its full share. As the seat of a severe government, and the garrison of a standing army, it was not much disturbed by tumult ; but it witnessed assassinations, which were openly committed in its streets ; it beheld a thousand punishments inflicted in its public places ; and it saw the mangled limbs of the guilty exhibited daily on its bloody gates (d). At length the town council tried to ingratiate themselves with the Duke of York, by every mode of adulation, and by every species of service (e). Charles II. unexpectedly demised on the 7th of February 1685, the news whereof reached Edinburgh on the 10th of the same month ; and thereupon a theatre was erected at the cross of Edinburgh, when the militia were drawn out ; and at ten o'clock the chancellor, treasurer, and whole officers of state, with the nobility and privy council, the lords of session, and the magistrates of Edinburgh, came to the cross with the Hon king at arms and his heralds ; the chancellor carried his own purse, and weeping, proclaimed James Duke of Albany the only undoubted and lawful king of this realm, the clerk register reading the words of the act, and all of them swore fealty and allegiance to (d) See Lord Fountainhall's Dec. Index, article, Edinburgh. (e) See their letters in Maitl. Edin., 104 ; and they even voluntarily offered a supply of seven months assessment for supporting the duke's succession. lb. 105. Sect. VI. — Its Civil History.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 699 the new king, whose title was thus pronounced to be undoubted (f). All officers were continued by the king's proclamation. The castle shot a round of guns, and a sermon was preached, wherein Mr. John Robert, the preacher, did regret their loss ; but desired them to dry up their tears, when they looked upon so brave and excellent a successor (g). The magistrates of Edinburgh transmitted an address of felicitation, which was graciously received, and obligingly acknowledged. At that epoch they erected in the Parliament Square the equestrian statue of Charles II., which still attracts popular admiration (h). A new parliament was convened at Edinburgh on the 23d of April 1685. The first act of James's first parliament was a confirmation of all former laws for the security of the protestant religion as professed in Scotland. The Estates passed an act of absurd adulation, with an offer of the excise to the king (i). There were passed also, in that session, some useful laws of domestic economy, while the recent attainders of various persons were confirmed, in a rigid tone of vindictive legislation (k). (/) The Act of Parliament which was then read by the clerk register was that of the 3rd Pari. Cha. II., No. 2, asserting the right of succession to the imperial crown of Scotland, passed on the 13th of August 1681. The above ceremonial of the proclamation of James VII. is transcribed from Lord Fountainhall, i., 336-9, who was present. His lordship was studious to quote the Institute of Wesem- becius, who says, coronatio principis non est necessaria. He might have also quoted Sir George Mackenzie's Observations on the Statutes, 174-5, who insists, that neither a coronation, nor a coronation oath, are necessary to the king's title. A late writer of history says : " The coronation oath for Scot- land was declined by James, as repugnant to the religion which he proposed to introduce." But there was no declinature of what was unnecessary in law, which was correlative with the coronation, that was itself only a mere ceremony. In his letter, dated the 18th of March 1685, to the Scottish parlia- ment, the kings says : " We were fully resolved, in person, to have proposed the needful remedies to you ; but things having so fallen out as render this impossible for us, we have thought fit to send our cousin and counsellor, William Duke of Queensberry, to be our commissioner among you." Wodrow, ii., 145. (g) Fountainhall, i., 339. There was also published soon after an Act oj Indemnity, with some exceptions. Wodrow, ii., App. No. ciii. (d) Maitl. Edin., 105. What was of still more importance, the magistrates, at the same time, directed lights to be hung out for illuminating their inconvenient streets, which were not yet half paved. The revenues of Edinburgh were exhausted in gratuities to statesmen during an age that had been corrupted by civil wars. (t) Stat. Ch. 11, of that session. The parliament passed also an Act of Supply. The religious state of the country called for several acts against the covenant and conventicles. There was also passed an Act for the Clergy, in which the king declares his firm resolution to maintain the church in its present government by archbishops and bishops, and not to endure, or connive at, any derogation from its rights. In the same spirit the test was enforced by a new law. (£) See the imprinted Acts of that session. There was an Act, "ratifying and approving the Earl 700 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V — Edinburghshire. The statutes of such a parliament are the best proofs of the sentiments of the people. Unhappily, too many of the populace had for years stood opposed to the legislature and the laws, according to the absurd maxims which had come down from their fathers to them. Hence, the imprudent invasion by Argyle, which involved the country in so many troubles, and stained the capital with so much blood (/). The epoch of the king's purpose to change the religion of the state in Scotland by the introduction of popery, notwithstanding so many laws for supporting protestantism, seems to have been October 1685. His measures of conversion were at first secret ; but in the progress of proselytism his conduct became more open. Edinburgh was the chief scene of his religious follies (to). of Argyle's forfeiture." When Argyle, on the 20th of June 1685, was paraded through the streets of Edinburgh to the castle, with his hands bound, his head bare, and with the hangman walking before him, he was treated as a person attainted by parliament. Historians, who are carried away by their commiseration, do not advert to that essential circumstance. It throws additional light on the obscure story of Argyle's conduct, to state that he was indebted to Heriot's Hospital £58,403 10s. Scots money, which the corporation of Edinburgh was obliged to pay to the hospital. This seems to show that Argyle was in mined circumstances. On the 21st of the preceding May, the Countess of Argyle, with her family, had been committed to Edinburgh Castle ; and several of the burgesses of Edinburgh were also secured. About the same time, the magistrates of Edinburgh enjoined the citizens to give in the names of strangers lodging with them, as many disloyal persons were supposed to be harboured in the town. (/) They had resolved, saith Lord Fountainhall, to have regimented and armed the College of Justice, when news came to Edinburgh, on the 9th of June, that Argyle was taken. Dec. i., 364. The Duke of Monmouth, on the 9th of June 1685, was cited by proclamation at the Cross of Edin- burgh, to appear at the criminal court to answer a charge of treason. It must have been for crimes, saith Fountainhall, posterior to the last king's remission, in December 1683. The fee of Buccleuch, it was thought, he adds, could not be forfeited for his fault ; as his lady and children had the right, while he had only his life, in the estate. The invasion of Monmouth was not then known at Edin- burgh. At Michaelmas 1685, the king nominated Bailie Kennedy to be the provost; and he was accordingly admitted. By this we see, saith Fountainhall, i., 370, the king intends to assume the nomination of the Provost of Edinburgh into his own hands in future, as also of the other considerable towns in Scotland. Wodrow, ii., 575. (hi) On the 28th of October 1685, a letter came to the bishop of Edinburgh, which was signed by Secretary Murray, signifying that the king was informed of seditious speeches which had been uttered in the pulpits of Edinburgh, tending to stir up the people to a dislike of the king or the Popish religion ; and ordaining the bishop to advert thereto on his peril. The bishop convened his ministers, and intimated this to them. Fountainhall, i„ 371. The fact is, however, that the Duke of Queens- Deny, when he was appointed the king's commissioner to the parliament of April 1685, was instructed " to suffer nothing to pass to the prejudice of the Roman Catholics, more than was already." Ib., 374. This carries back the king's intentions, with regard to his religion, to a much earlier period, at least with regard to defensive tneasures. Sect. VI, , — Its Civil History."] Of NORTH- BRITAIN. 701 On the first of the subsequent November, the king's letter was read at the privy council, dispensing with the test, in favour of some papists who had been named in the supply act of April 1685. It was pretended that those papists had been inserted by mistake ; and they were therefore exempted from the test, that they might act without it. " This seemed a downright derogation from the act of parliament 1685, and not within the king's power (n)." The dis- pensing power was thus plainly avowed ; and his purpose, not only to protect the papists from persecution, but to give them power and to encourage proselytism was apparent. The whole conduct of James VII. on this head, as he was not defective in understanding, is one of the most singular instances of absurd delusion which is recorded in any history. The experience of five-and- twenty years had shown that protestant episcopacy, with every support of law and government, could scarcely be maintained in Scotland against the pre- judice of the populace and the practices of fanaticism, which, at that period, had produced so many odious crimes and so many popular ebulitions. How hopeless then the endeavour to introduce and support popery in such a country against law, and in the face of such firm conviction in the wisest minds. We may thus perceive, also, that religion was the king's great object, and the dispensing power only a secondary means. With the opening of the year 1686, the king's design became more apparent. An order was made by the privy council, directing the stationers of Edinburgh neither to sell nor print any books reflecting on popery (o). A tumult soon after ensued in Edinburgh, when to such an order was added the saying of mass in an open manner, however contrary to law. The privy council, actuated by the heat of the new converted chancellor, the Earl of Perth, directed a young baker, who had acted riotously, to be whipped by the common executioner ; but he was rescued from the officer, who was himself insulted by the populace. The king's guards were now ordered to disperse the rioters, who were tried (n) Lord Fountainhall's Decisions, i., 374. There was another clause, he adds, " without prejudice to the king, to dispense with any others he pleased." Id. This letter, he goes on, alarmed some people, as an evidence that the king intended by degrees to put Papists in the government ; and which seemed to them clear from his speech to the English parliament on the 9th of November 1685. Id. (©) Fountainhall, ii., 398. A copy of that order was delivered to every bookseller in Edinburgh. When it was intimated to James Glen, he informed the messenger of the privy council that he had one book in his shop which condemned Popery much ; and being asked what book, he said the Bible. Glen seems to have been a resolute as well as a witty man ; for in such times his tongue ran some risk of being castrated for such a sarcasm. Id. 4 4 0 702 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. and convicted by the privy council, and were yet afraid to proceed to ex- tremities. The king said publicly, when all those matters were communicated to him, that he would support his chancellor ; yet privately blamed the privy councillors for bringing the practices of his religion too openly before a zealous people (p). At the criminal court, on the 15th of February 1686, the king's advocate insisted on the forfeiture of the Duke of Monmouth, who was found guilty of three points of treason ; for the invasion, for the assumption of the crown, and for touching persons who were afflicted with the scrofula, jure corona (q). The king's intentions became every day more apparent (r). The Duke of Hamilton, the Lord President Lockhart, and General Drummond, were called to London on the 23rd of March, in order to sound them before the meeting of parliament, when it was to be proposed to rescind the laws against popery (s). The chancellor, Perth, had suggested this measure, as Hamilton and Lockhart had shown some symptoms of disapprobation. The archbishop of St. Andrews and the bishop of Edinburgh, were also called to London, with the same pur- pose of securing previous votes by private intrigue (t). The burghs, also, whose representatives in parliament formed a numerous body, were flattered with the promise of a free trade to England («). The proposed measure was now discussed in printed papers and by public preaching (x). The parliament (p) Fountainhall, iL, 399-403. In order to prevent such tumults in Edinburgh, an Act was passed making masters answerable for the misconduct of their servants ; and because a landlady distrained the press and other goods of one Watson, a papist printer, for his rent, this distress was made a combina- tion : and his goods were violently taken, and brought to the abbey of Holyrood, where he was protected. He was made the king's printer in Holyroodhouse, and was the father of James Watson, the king's printer, during the reign of Anne. Id. (q) Fountainhall, ii., p. 403. The counsel for the injured duchess declined to act, but protested that the doom against her husband should not prejudice her just right to her own estate. Id. This respectable lady, who, with all the virtues of her sex, possessed the fortitude of her fathers, lived long and acted prudently. She acquired for her children many lands : Musselburgh on the east, and Lang- holm on the west. (r) On the 11th of March 1686, the king appointed the Duke of Gordon, who was a Papist, the governor of Edinburgh Castle, in the room of the Duke of Queensberry ; and the test which was required by law was dispensed with in the duke's favour. In return, the Duke of Gordon discharged this trast honourably. (*) Id. (t) lb., 412. («) lb., 412. (x) George Shiel, the minister of Prestonhaugh, having preached vehemently in the abbey church against Popery, was sharply reproved ; but he said he had obeyed the bishop's old instructions, Sect. VI.— Its Civil History.] Of NORTH- BRITAIN. 703 at length convened at Edinburgh, on the 29th of April 1686. After the usual protests for precedence, the king's advocate objected to the sitting of Lord Forrester of Corstorphine, as he had not a right of peerage, the last lord's patent being but temporary. So he was desired to withdraw till he had cleared his title (y). This intimation is important, as it shows the usual mode of objecting to disputable peerages. The king's letter to the parliament was now read, proposing indulgence to the Roman Catholics ; and the king's commissioner recited his speech, enforcing the king's topics of legislation (z). This was a session of unusual length and discussion, and the people's minds were now enlightened and their apprehensions awakened. The king's desire in favour of his religion was finally disappointed (a) ; yet the king and his ministers did not learn any moderation from recent experience. Any man of common abilities might have perceived, from the intrigue and management and agita- tion at Edinburgh during that session, how impossible it was to obtain a repeal of the tests, or to make much progress in proselytism. The profoundest lawyers, the soundest divines, the ablest men of Scotland, had all settled their belief and taken their several stands, so that promises and threats were allowing the ministers to preach against Popery, spaiing persons ; and he added that a ridiculous religion might be treated with ridicule. Thereupon the bishop, by a new Act, directed the ministers to discontinue such preaching in the pulpits of Edinburgh and its suburbs without his licence. Ib., 413. (y) Fountainhall, ii., 413. (z) The king's letter, the commissioner's speech, and the answer of the parliament are transcribed in Wodrow's App., ii., 158-60. The parliament say, in answer to the king's desire of toleration to the Roman Catholics : " We shall take the same into our serious consideration, and go as great lengths therein as our conscience will allow ; not doubting that your majesty will be careful to secure the Protestant religion, as established by law." Id. (a) Wodrow, ii., App. 160, has preserved the proposed bill respecting the penal statutes, which shows that private worship in their private houses would have been allowed to Roman Catholics, yet on condition that the Test Acts should be still more enforced. Nor was such a law accepted by the king's ministers. There is a good account of the parliamentary debates during this interesting session in Fountainhall, i., 413. His lordship states that two of his servants had been arrested during the sitting, though the servants of the English members of parliament were free ; but he did not com- plain to parliament of a breach of privilege. These circumstances show how little the privileges of the Scottish parliament were then understood. The lord chancellor, Perth, sat in that parliament though he was a Papist, and had not taken the test as required by law. There were hints thrown out that he had no right to sit ; but there was no formal motion made upon this important point. It is curious to remark that in the Harlem Gazette there was published, from time to time, a good account of what passed in that parliament. 704 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. equally unavailing. In a few months this parliament was dissolved, without any design, perhaps, of ever calling another during James VII. s reign (6). The parliament had hardly risen when the king and his ministers began the unhallowed work of persecuting the members for their several votes, from the highest to the lowest, from the Duke of Queensberry to Provost Miln of Linlithgow (c). Rewards were given on the other side. The whole conduct of James VII. exhibits such a delusion as the world had never witnessed before. In opposition to the spirit of the country and the declarations of law, he con- tinued to fill the privy council and the offices of government with papists, in contempt of the test act. He now went the length of doing that for the papists which the parliament had refused to do for them. By his own authority he took the Roman Catholics under his laws and protection, giving them the private exercise of their religion, with a chapel in the abbey of Holyrood ; and he commanded the privy council and the magistrates to maintain the Roman Catholics in their rights and privileges (d). Watson, the popish printer, was (6) Lord Fountainhall remarks of that session : " One said of this parliament, what the Irish tague " said of the Earl of Feversham, when the king was making him a knight of the garter, for defeating " Monmouth, that God only deserved the garter ; so the finger of God was seen in the stedfastness of this " parliament, who had not one great man in public to own them ; and it behoved to be from some " higher principle that noblemen, gentlemen, bishops, and others cheerfully laid down their "places rather than violate their consciences." Decisions, ii., 419. His lordship also mentions, among other providences which occurred at that time, "to defeat this project of toleration," Doctor Sibbald's turning Protestant, and Lord Doune, the commissioner, Earl of Murray's son, turning Papist. Poor Sir Robert Sibbald, the physician, the antiquary, the topographer, whose books show him to have been one of the weakest of men, was bred a Protestant, became a Papist, and now, from trouble of conscience, after his return from London, called upon the bishop of Edinburgh, declared he could find no security in the Popish religion, and desired to be readmitted into the Protestant faith, offering to make a public recantation. But the bishop of Edinburgh refused it as unseasonable ; while others called it a dispensation of Providence for strengthening Protestants. (c) Fountainhall, i., 420. Provost Miln, indeed, had been trusted to lead the burghs in favour of the court ; but deserted the ministers in parliament. (d) The king's letter, which was read in council on the 4th September 1686. Lord Fountain- hall, i., 424, says, some asked what those rights and privileges were ? This unwarrantable epistle was accompanied with panegyric on the Papists and censures on the Protestants, and par- ticularly on some of the late members of parliament. We do not learn, however, from that intelligent writer that the secretary or other officer, countersigning such illegal and offensive rescripts, were called to an account, as responsible for their conduct. The useful principle of responsibility seems not to have been known, at least practised, in the Scottish jurisprudence. This observation is justified by what passed in the Scottish privy council, when an answer was drawn Sect. VL — Its Civil History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 705 made printer to the king's family, though Anderson's heirs had a grant to be the king's printer ; and the privy council gave Watson the right to print all the prognostications in Edinburgh. To that source may be traced up the various books which bear in their title pages to have been printed at that period in Holyroodhouse. The printing and circulating of such books was made one of the charges against 'King James VII. , when his right to govern was declared by the convention to be forfeited (a). The king soon after assumed the power of appointing the provosts of the several burghs (6). In May 1688, the king exlpained his grant of toleration, in the face of the law, in such a manner as to dissolve all judicatories till they should obtain new commissions renouncing the legal test (c). James VII. had now run his race of religious folly, and had shown his people a thousand examples of his violent passion for governing against law when in up to that rescript. The Duke of Hamilton, objecting to the prerogative of the king as a legal security for this favour to the papists, the chancellor asked briskly who would question the king's power to relax the laws. So the duke, retiring, said he was not doubting the king's prerogative, but what needed the privy council declare it to be law. Sir George Lockhart, the president, sat mute the whole time ; but whispered, he would quit his head before he would sign it so. Thus was the word legal put out and the word sufficient put in. In this manner, says Lord Fountainhall, they granted what the parliament had refused. Decisions, i. 424. (a) lb. 424, of the date the 16th of September 1686. The printers and booksellers of Edinburgh were required by the privy council to declare what books they had imported in the last year ; the chancellor observing that they had sold sundry scandalous and seditious pamphlets. Ib. 472. (b) Ib. 425. The king immediately nominated the magistrates of Edinburgh. On the 23d of November 1686, the king's yacht arrived from London at Leith, with the altar, vestments, images, priests, and their appurtenants, for the popish chapel in the abbey of Holyrood. Ib. 430. On St. Andrew's day the abbey chapel was consecrated by holy water, and a sermon by Wederington. Ib. 432. On the 8th of February 1688, Ogstoun, the bookseller in Edinburgh, was threatened for selling Archbishop Usher's Sermons against the Papists, and the History of the French Persecutions, and all the copies were taken from him, though popish books were printed and sold. Ib. 496. On the 22d of March 1688, the Rules of the Popish College in the Abbey of Holyrood were published, inviting children to be educated gratis. Ib. 502. See those rules in Wodrow, ii. App. No. cxlii. (c) Fountainhall, i. 503. It was even supposed by some that the same exposition had dissolved the Com-t of Session. But the lords continued to sit. Id. On the 24th of July 1688, the chancellor ordered the king's advocate to summon the masters of the university of Aberdeen for presuming to take an oath of the students, when graduated, that they would profess the protestant religion. The masters defended themselves by saying that their statutes and their oaths obliged them to do it. Ib. 513. This seemed to be the plea of Magdalen College in Oxford. 706 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. pursuit of his object (d). Throughout the months of September and October 1688, his officers of state at Edinburgh acted as if they expected an invasion from Holland (e). Throughout August and November 1688, the Court of Session almost ceased to act, considering its functions to have ceased, from the apparent dissolution of the established government at Edinburgh ( f). As early as the 3d of December 1688, the students of Edinburgh university burned the pope, and clamoured for a free parliament. The students were on that occasion obviously made use of as instruments. The magistrates endeavoured to preserve tranquility. But the chancellor, Earl of Perth, in whose person rested the whole government of Scotland, retired from the capital to the Highlands, being persuaded by some of the privy council to shelter himself from the coming storm. The king withdrew from London about the same time that the chancellor retired from Edinburgh (g). The remaining members of the privy council assumed the provisional government (h). Yet the populace and the students repaired to the abbey, to burn the chapel in Holyroodhouse. They were repulsed by the guard, who fired upon them under the direction of Captain Wallace. He was now directed by the privy councillors to withdraw his guards ; but hesitating to obey what he thought incompetent authority, the citizens overpowered him. The city being thus master of the abbey, the populace, without further opposition, forced the doors of the chapel, and carried the furniture to the cross, where it was burned in zealous triumph. After this sacrifice, guards were placed throughout the town and its suburbs, to repress any further tumults. Nor did Edinburgh castle (d) See Wodrow's App. ii. p. 187-99. (e) Mackay and Blackadder, who had recently come from Holland as intriguers,, were imprisoned in Edinburgh castle. A proclamation was made for raising the militia and for setting up beacons. Soon after another proclamation called out the Heritors. Wodrow's App. ii. 201-3. On the 10th of November, a third proclamation threatened the spreaders of false news. Ib. 205. The Prince of Orange had landed in Torbay on the 5th of the same month. Sir John Dalrymple's Mem., i. 223. There was an address to the king from the Scottish bishops, dated on 3d of November 1688, on the birth of a prince, on the threatened invasion from Holland, full of adulation, yet trusting to his royal protection to their church and religion, as the laws had established them. Wodrow. App. ii. 204. It was in this address that the bishops prayed God to give the king the hearts of his subjects and the necks of his enemies. (f) Fountainhall, i. 516. (g) The chancellor, who had been the great instrument of James's misgovernment in Scotland, attempting to flee into France, was brought back by the seamen of the Forth. (h) On the 14th of December 1688. there was a proclamation against the papists, and requiring all persons to disarm them. On the 24th of the same month, another proclamation called out the militia to resist papists. Sect. VI.— Its Civil History.'] Of NORTH- BRITAIN. 707 fire upon the city, owing to the discretion of the Duke of Gordon, the governor, who yet refused to resign his command. On the 25th of December, the students paraded with the college mace before them, and music playing, to the cross of Edinburgh, where they again burnt the pope, while the privy councillors and town council beheld the triumph with approving eyes. But the country was now universally in arms, and the papists, who made no resistance, were generally seized. In this manner, then, was the government of James VII. dissolved in Scotland, where he seems to have had no party to support his measures, which were as absurd as they were illegal. It is a more pleasing task to show how a very different government was established on the ruins of an administration which was wholly corrupt. On the 27th of December 1688, the privy council transmitted an address to the Prince of Orange. On the following day the lord provost and the common council of Edinburgh addressed the prince, expressing their satisfaction that his endeavours had been attended with success without bloodshed. They offered him their services, they begged for his protection to their persons, city, and privileges, and they assured him of their cheerful concurrence in pre- serving their religion, their laws, and their liberties. They declared for a free parliament, as the students had done before them, for securing their ancient monarchy and royal succession (i). The archiepiscopal city of Glasgow pro- claimed the Prince of Orange as the protestant protector. Such, then, were the proofs which the prince received of the general wishes of the Scottish people. Encouraged by those attentions, the prince, on the 7th of January 1689, called together, at Whitehall, the nobility and gentry of Scotland, who were then in London. He briefly asked their advice in what manner to secure the protestant religion, and to restore their laws and liberties, according to his declaration. After a slight debate, thirty peers and eighty commoners, after thanking the prince for his generous undertaking, desired him to assume the government of Scotland for the preservation of peace, until a general meeting of the Estates might be called at Edinburgh, by the prince's proclamation, according to the custom of the kingdom. The prince had now the authority of a convention of nobles and gentry, sitting without the kingdom, for taking upon him the administration of the Scottish affairs ; and he was obeyed with full as much conviction of his title as the power of those kings who had governed Scotland for two centuries of anarchical misrule. (t) Maitl. Edin. 108. 708 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. The Estates of Scotland assembled at Edinburgh, in obedience to the prince's letters. They met in one apartment, according to the custom of the country. The bishop of Edinburgh read prayers to them, in which he pi'ayed God to have compassion on King James, and to restore him to his government. Whether the king or the bishop had acted most indiscreetly, needs not be strenuously debated. The Estates chose the Duke of Hamilton for their president, by a majority of forty voices, in opposition to the Marquis of Athole ; and they first provided for their own safety, as the city of Edinburgh was altogether under the cannon of the castle, which was commanded by the Duke of Gordon, a Roman Catholic. As the duke had no very determinate purpose, the castle sustained a sort of siege, throughout many months, in the midst of frequent treaties. In the meantime, the city of Edinburgh was crowded with armed men, who had come from all parts of the kingdom, from motives either of zeal or curiosity. The Estates commanded all persons, who did not belong to the city or the con- vention, to withdraw from the town, and they appointed a committee to take care of the public peace. By admitting the son of the late Earl of Argyle to sit as one of the convention, notwithstanding a protest, while his father's attainder remained unreversed, the members showed to those who reasoned accurately, more zeal than knowledge (Jc). The prince's letter to the Estates was now read, recommending the speedy settlement of their government on lasting foundations, and desiring them to consider of an union of the two kingdoms. After some debate, and a resolute protest, the Estates also read a letter from the king, which was written at sea, on his voyage to France. Such a letter, consisting of pi^omises and threats, at such a crisis, could only be injurious to the writer, who did not recollect, amidst his disastei's, how much he had himself done to animate the Scottish people with desire of change, and to promote the quick progress of decisive revolution. The Estates of course proceeded to declare themselves a free and lawful meeting, which was regularly convened for the equal settlement of their regular government. Nor did they proceed hastily to this difficult work. They provided for the public revenue (I) ; they endeavoured to draw together the scattered forces of the state (m) ; and they now answered the (k) The attainder of the Earl of Argyle was afterwards reversed by parliament. (Z) The merchants of Edinburgh offered to advance the money immediately upon the security of the convention. (m) On the 30th of March 1689, the forces that came from the west to Edinburgh, being above 6,000 men, were ordered one week's pay, and the public thanks of the house for their Sect. VI.— Its Civil History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 709 prince's letter to the Estates, in a manner that must have been very agreeable to him, while they declined to give any other answer to the king than a passport to his messenger (n). On the 26th of March, the magistrates of Edinburgh gave their oaths of fidelity to the Estates (o) ; and on the 2d of April 1689, the Estates came to the memorable vote, that James VII. had, by the violation of the laws, forfaulted his right to the crown, and that the throne was thereby vacant. This vote, and the various reasons which were detailed in its support, were approved by the whole estates except twelve, and of these, seven were bishops (p). This vote was followed by another, which was equally important, for settling the crown upon William and Mary, the king and queen of England. On the 11th of April, William and Mary were accord- ingly proclaimed, at the cross of Edinburgh, king and queen of Scotland, and the longer liver of them, but the regal power was appropriated to the king alone (q). And a claim of right, or instrument of government, was directed to be presented to the king and queen with the offer of the crown (r). All those measures were followed by a long list of grievances which had arisen out of the legal anarchy of late times, and undoubtedly improved a very imper- fect constitution (s). All those documents were presented to the king and queen at Whitehall, on the 11th of May 1689. They both on that occasion took the coronation oath, with an explanatory avowal that they did not consider themselves thereby obliged to persecute. The commissioners, Ai-gyle, Mont- gomery, and Dalrymple, were not instructed by the Estates to represent to the king and queen, "that persecution was neither intended by the oath nor required by law," whatever the words might import. William and Mary were now, both in law and fact, the king and queen of Scotland. It was good service in blocking up the castle. Convention Proceedings, No. 3. The above forces were popularly called the Cameronians. They refused any gratification when they were sent home, saying, that they came to save and serve their country. They had on their colours a Bible with some other devices, with this motto, "For reformation according to the word of God." Id. (n) lb. No. 3-4. (o) lb. No. 6. Several of the magistrates refusing to take that oath to the Estates were ordered to be turned out and new ones chosen in their room. Id. When the business of the day was over one of the bishops offered to say prayers as the custom was ; upon which it was ordered that King James be no more prayed for. and the bishop discreetly said The Lord's Prayer. (q) lb. No. 11. (;•) Id. (s) lb. No. 12 ; and the Acts of the Estates, ch. xiii. Yet on that occasion there was no declaration making the seivants of the crown responsible for the act of the king, which would have been far more useful in practice than any recital of abstract rights or of experienced wrongs. 4 4 W 710 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. also desired by the Estates, that for the further securing the Protestant religion and the national liberties, the king would "turn this meeting into a parlia- ment (t)." The Revolution was now accomplished at Edinburgh by the several acts of the Estates, who declared the forfeiture of James VII., and by the nomination of William and Mary as king and queen, under a claim of rights and a representation of grievances (u). Under the reigns of Charles II. and James, some of the covenanted clergy and the lowest populace refused obedience to the laws and acknowledgment of the king. After this revolution, some of the episcopal clergy and laity refused to acknowledge King William and to conform to the declared law. We may thus perceive that those dissimilar parties acted upon a similar principle ; but the Episcopalians now changed places with the Presbyterians. One of the first acts of the Estates was to admit the son of the attainted Earl of Argyle to sit among them as a peer, having the rights of the peerage ; and they also admitted Sir Patrick Hume to sit as a legal representative of Berwick- shire, though he had also been attainted. The Estates perhaps acted upon the principle that the government of the late kings, and the proceedings of the recent parliaments, were equally unconstitutional. James VII. had intro- duced unchartered irregularities into the magistracy of the royal burghs. In order to restore those chartered bodies to their legal rights, the Estates directed that new magistrates should be chosen by the inhabitants of those towns. A different mode was adopted when the Estates were to be converted into a Parlia- ment. The Estates met, according to their adjournment ; and the king and queen, with their consent, declared the Estates to be a Parliament ; and it was, by the same act, declared to be treason for any one to impugn the authority of the parliament as thus constituted (x). In the unconstitutional government of James VII. there was nothing more absurd and illegal than the present mode of converting a revolutionary convention into a legal parliament. When the king and queen had accepted the government, there were now rulers, properly (i) The Convention Proceedings, No. 22. (m) King William, on the 17th of May 1689, wrote a letter to the Estates, declaring his acceptance of the crown, with the claim of right and the representation of grievances. On the 22d of the same month the Estates adjourned themselves to the 5th of June then next. The functions of the Estates which had accomplished that great and salutary measure ought now to have ceased, as there was now a king in possession. (x) Stat. 1st. Pari. William and Mary, ch. i. This act was confirmed by the more legal parliament of Queen Anne. But this act of recognition seems to imply that the only parliament of King William was liable to some objection. Pari. Anne, May 1703, ch. 3. Sect, VI.— Its Civil History.'] Of NORTH- BRITAIN. 711 constituted both in law and fact. When the Estates had thereupon adjourned, the Revolution was accomplished ; and the revolutionary government ought at this period to have closed. The king had by law no right to declare the conven- tion to be a parliament. All he could do legally as the Scottish king, was to issue writs in the accustomed manner to the constituted authorities, directing them to cause the electors to choose their representatives for the proposed parlia- ment according to their several privileges. The king, then, in forming his first parliament, did not act according to law. The objection to this first, and indeed only parliament of this reign, therefore, was that the people did not choose the representative part of it ; and King William, with all his renown for prudence, chose to put his legislative government of Scotland upon the footing of power rather than of law (y). Revolutions in government can only be justified by necessity ; but no considerate statesman who may be occupied in such transactions will carry revolutionary practice a single step beyond the warrant of necessity. Every measure which runs beyond that warrant amounts to positive illegality (z). Throughout the reign of William, there was only one parliament without any election of the people, and eight sessions of violent legislation. Edinburgh was the scene of the Revolution, as we have seen, and the place of so many sittings of a parliament whose authority was questionable, and whose policy was doubtful. The city of Edinburgh existed in a state of hostility with its castle from the beginning of the Revolution till the 13th of June 1690, when it capitulated. In such a town, we may suppose that it contained many persons (y) The second act of this first parliament thus illegally constituted, was "an act recognizing their majesty's royal authority.'' But as they had not the people's assent, constitutionally expressed, they did not gain one iota of additional legalization. The second act of this ill-omened parliament, was an act abolishing prelacy. The fourth act was that for rescinding the forfeiture of the late Earl of Argyle. By another act the first session was adjourned to the 8th of October then next. (z) On the 24th of May 1689, a new commission was issued by King William nominating a privy council. It was resolved that this new privy council should act before appending the Great Seal to the commission. But why should the privy council act without their appointment ? A thousand facts evince that the statesmen who then figured on the stage at Edinburgh had no notion of acting accord- ing to law accurately understood. When the convention of Estates adjourned to the 5th of June, a proclamation was ordered to be issued, requiring the several members to attend on that day, and the proclamation stated that it was issued by warrant from his majesty ; yet this did not legalize the members, as the parliamentary electors had not chosen them. The king had no right, by his warrant, so to constitute a parliament. In the Convention Proceedings, No. 26, there are some reasons to justify this ; but they are egregious sophistry. 712 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. who did not quite approve of the revolutionary proceedings which they wit- nessed within its walls. There were, of course, several plots which were dis- concerted as soon as discovered (a). The city, however, concurred in the Revo- lution, though perhaps without much zeal. In July 1690, the magistrates were empowered to raise a revenue on the inhabitants for maintaining the guard of the town (b). Another act was soon after passed for enabling the corporation to pay its debts, though not without opposition (c). An act was also passed in favour of the four incorporated trades of the Canongate, which was opposed by the protest of the city (d). Edinburgh was stained in 1G89 by the murder of the Lord President Lockhart ; and it was disgraced during the reign of William by the practice of torture. It saw also its university reformed under a statute which was made in 1090, by legislators who are more memorable for their zeal than knowledge (e). Their buildings were moreover reformed {/). A destructive conflagration which happened in February 1700, gave rise to an act of the town council in 1703 for quenching jive. Throughout this reign we hear of no hilarity in Edinburgh. There were frequent fasts and some thanksgivings ; but the gloominess of the citizens was never, as far as appears, tempered by such little incitements to mirth as aie apt to disperse melancholy. The birthdays of the king and queen were, indeed, kept, though without any great display (g). There seems to be nothing in the whole conduct of King William with regard to Scotland which much merits commemoration. The massacre of Glencoe, the disregard of the Scottish privileges at the treaty of Ryswick, the failure of the Darien expedition — all those causes of discon- tent carried the popular discontent into violent indignation ; and in 1700, (a) On the 21st of June 1690, a proclamation was issued " for securing the peace within the city of Edinburgh and the suburbs thereof," requiring the citizens to deliver to the magistrates the names of their lodgers. (6) Pari. Proceedings, No. 128. (c) Unprinted Acts, Sess. 1C90. (7 and it was probably called Newbotle by some Saxon settler here, in contra- distinction to Eld-botle, or Old-botle, in East-Lothian (x). The endowment of this house was less abundant than that of Holyrood. David I. granted to the monks the whole manor of Newbotle, except the lands which were held of him by Robert Ferrers (y). He gave them the district of Mor-thwaite, which, by various mutations, is now called Moor-foot, on the South Esk. He gave them the lands of Buchalch, on the Esk (2). He con- ferred on them a salt-work at Blackeland, in Lothian, and the right of pannage and the privilege of cutting wood in his forests (a). The munificent David also assigned them the patronage of several churches, and the benefit of some revenues. The example of so good a prince was followed by his grandson, Malcolm, by the Countess Ada, the widow of Earl Henry, and by William the Lion, who granted them the lands of Mount-Lothian ; and, with some special services, he confirmed the grants of David I. and of Malcolm IV. The first abbot of Holyrood, the bountiful Alwin, relinquished to the monks of Newbotle the lands of Pettendriech, on the Esk. His example was followed by various other persons of equal piety, in giving lands in the country, tofts in the towns, and churches in several shires. Alexander II., who delighted to dwell at Newbotle, gave them various donations ; and the monks, in return, gave Mary, his wife, a grave (b). Pope Innocent, in 1203, by a bull, confirmed all their possessions and privileges ; and by another bull he prohibited all persons from extorting teinds from their lands, which they held or cultivated (c). In 1293 William de Lindsay gave the monks an annuity of £20 sterling, which he received from Symonstoun, in Kyle, and which he directed to be distributed in specified modes, that exhibit the manners of a rude age (d) ; and David II. gave the monks a charter, enabling them to hold their lands within the valley (x) Several places in England are named Newbotle. There are two in Northampton, one in Durham, one in Rutland, exclusive of several on the wall, near Newcastle. (y) Chart. Newbot., 12. (z) lb., 27-28-11. (a) lb., 28. He gave them another salt-work in the Carse of Callander, in Stirlingshire, with some lands and easements of pasturage and of wood-cutting. Ib., 182. (b) lb., 129. He gave them all those rights for the salvation of his predecessors, for his own, and for the salvation of Mary, his spouse, " que corpus suum apud Newbotle sepeliendum reliquit.'' Id. ; and they acquired much property and many privileges by purchase. (c) lb., 243-4. (d) The grant directed that, on St. Andrew's day, 104 shillings sterling should be given yearly to the monks "ad pitancias," a small portion of meat and drink extra on some festival; and that two shillings should be distributed every Sunday among the monks to amend their usual diet, for their solace ; and that the abbot should be bound under a penalty to bestow certain chanties on the poor of Haddington and Ormiston on stated days. Chart. Newbotle, 195. 4 5 C 758 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. of Lothian, in a free forest, with the various privileges which belonged to a forestry (e). The first abbot of Newbotle was Radulph, who came, with the monks, from Melrose in 1140. The eighteenth abbot was John, who had to sustain the difficult transactions of the disputed succession to Alexander III. He sat in the great parliament of Brigham, in March 1290 (/). In July 1291, he swore fealty to Edward I., in the chapel of the Maiden castle (g). John again swore fealty, with his monks, to Edward in 1296; and thereupon obtained writs to several sheriffs for the return of his property (h). In January 1296-7, Edward directed his treasurer, Cressingham, to settle with the abbot for the firm due by the abbey of Newbotle for the lands of Bothkennar (i). Whether Abbot John witnessed the accession of Robert Bruce, is uncertain. In 1385, the monastery of Newbotle was burnt during the furious inroad of Richard II. (k) ; and the monks were employed during forty years in re-edifying their house (I). Patrick Madour, who was abbot in April 1462, had the merit of collecting the documents which form at present the Chartulary of Newbotle ; and he had the spirit, in October 1466, to institute a suit in parliament against James, Lord Hamilton, "for the spoliation of a stone of lead ore," taken from the abbot's lands of Fremure, in Clydesdale ; and the lords' auditors found in the abbot's favour (in). Andrew, the abbot, in May 1499, granted his lands of Kinnaird, in Stirlingshire, to Edward Brus, his well-deserving armiger, rendering for the same sixteen marks yearly (n) ; and in December 1500, he gave to Robert Brus of Binning, and Mary Preston, his spouse, the monastery's lands, called the abbot's lands of West-Binning, in Linlithgowshire, rendering for the same four shillings yearly (o). James Hasmall was probably the last abbot, in whose time the monastery was burnt during the Earl of Hertford's invasion (p). Mark Ker, the second son of Sir Andrew Ker of Cessford, becoming a protest ant in 1560, obtained the vicarage of Linton ; and in 1564 was made the first commendator of New- botle (q). He was succeeded by his son Mark, who had a reversion of the (e) Regist. David II., 1. i., 178. (/) Rym. ii., 471. (g) lb., 572. (h) Prynne, iii., 653 ; Rym. ii. ? 723. (i) Rot. Scotiae, 38. (k) Bower, 1. xiv., 50. (I) In September 1419, tbere was a transaction with Edward de Crichton, in which the rebuilding of the monastery is mentioned. Chart. Newbotle, 5. (m) Pari. Rec. 143. (n) Chart. Newbotle, 307-8-9 . (o) lb., 310. (p) Printed account of that expedition, p. 11. The abbot was present in the parliament of November, 1558. Pari. Rec, 279. (q) Keith, x. ; Hist., 305. In 1581 he obtained a ratification of parliament for the abbey of Newbotle. Unprinted Act. He gave in the following statement of the revenues of the abbey : In Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 759 commendatorship, which was confirmed to him. In 1587, he obtained from the facility of James VI. , a grant of the whole estates of the monastery as a temporal barony; and this was ratified in the parliament of 1587 (r). In October 1591, the barony was converted for him into a temporal lordship, by the title of Lord Newbotle, which was ratified by the parliament of 1592 (s). In this manner, then, were the pious donations of ancient times converted into private property. The abbey was changed into a commendatory, which was again transfoi'med into a barony, and this was erected into a lordship, that was elevated to an earldom by the grants of the king and the ratifications of parlia- ment (t). In Edinburgh city and shire, there were other pious donations which met a similar fate, when piety assumed a different fashion, and when zealots were more active to destroy than to save. In 1230, Alexander II. founded in Edinburgh, a convent of Black Friars of the order of St. Dominic, and were called in ancient charters, the Fratres Predicatores, the preaching friars. This house, which stood on the site of the present High School, is called in their foundation charters, Mansio Regis, which intimates that the king had dwelled in this royal mansion when he occasionally resided at Edinburgh. Alex- ander II. granted those monks 10 marbs " de firmis burgalibus de Edin- burgh (u)." Robert I gave them an annual rent of five marks from his mill money, £1,334 Scots; in victual, 12 bolls of wheat, 15 bolls of bear, 5 chalders 10 bolls of oats. Col. Books of the Thirds ; and Books of Assumption. There was a more accurate specification given in, as follows : In money, £1,413 Is. 2d. Scots ; in victual, 99 bolls of wheat, 53 bolls 2 pecks of bear, 250 bolls 2 firlots of white oats. From this, several disbursements are claimed ; particularly, £240 Scots paid to six aged, decrepid, and recanted monks. Books of Assumption. Mark Ker died in 1584, an extraordinary lord of the Court of Session. (r) Unprinted Act. (s) Unprinted Act. He was created Earl of Lothian in 1606, and died in 1609. Crawfurd's Peer., 269. (t) The monastery of Newbotle was surrounded by a wall, which remained entire to our own times, and which is usually called Monkland Wall ; but the buildings of the abbey have been long obliterated by the erection on their site of the modern mansion of the Marquis of Lothian, that is called Newbattle Abbey. This stands on a level lawn of 30 acres, which is washed by the South Esk, and is adorned by ancient trees. Stat. Acco., x., 216. (u) MS. Book of Donations : And he granted to them the lane, which from their name has been called the Blackfriars Wynd. The English have preserved from the Saxon the verb, to wind, " to move round," to " proceed in flexures ; " and Milton speaks of " a rock winding with one ascent ; " but they have not, like the Scots, a wind, for a lane or alley. We also learn, from Spottiswoode, 487, 760 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. of Liberton (a;). They obtained from James III. an annual rent of twenty- four marks from the lands of Gosford in East-Lothian (y). From a variety of pious persons, the Black friars obtained many donations, which were confirmed by James III. in 1473 (z). It was in the house of those Black friars that Bagimont, in 1275, assembled the Scottish clergy (a). The house of the Black friars was burnt in 1528. It was almost rebuilt when the reforming insurgents demolished it in 1559. The magistrates of Edinburgh asked, and received, from Queen Mary, a grant of this monastery, with its revenues and pertinents, for the pretended purpose of erecting on its site an hospital for the aged poor, which was never built ; and which was dispensed with by the regent Murray (6). The Gray friars were introduced by James I., who built for them a convent in Edinburgh ; and it is said to have been so magnificent that the foreign leader of the Observantines could scarcely be prevailed on to settle them in their appropriate house. But they were at length fully settled here in 1446. The Gray friars continued a distinguished seminary of useful learning till it was reformed by the insurrection of 1559 (c). The Carmelites, or White friars, who were introduced into Scotland in 1260, acquired an establishment at Edinburgh under James V. John Malcolm, the provincial of the order, obtained from the magistrates the lands of Greenside, at the foot of the Calton, with the church of the Holyrood at this place, for the purpose of establishing a convent ; and that grant was confirmed on the that the Vennel, crossing the Blackfriars Wynd, was also granted by the same king to the Black friars. The palace, belonging to the see of St. Andrews, stood at the south-east corner of the Blackfriars Wynd. Maitl. Edin., 169. (x) MS. Monast. Scotise. (y) MS. Donations. In 1473, John Laing, the king's treasurer, and bishop elect of Glasgow, granted them the annual rent of certain tenements in Edinburgh, " pro sustentatione lampadis in Choro." Id. Spottiswoode, 487. (z) MS. Donations. (a) See Caledonia, i., 688-9 ; and Lesley, 356, by a strange hallucination, placed the same event in 1512. Yet the 4th Pari. Ja. IV., ch. 39, directed benefices to be rated, according to "the auld taxation of Bagimont." (b) Maitl. Edin., 182, speaks indignantly of such deceptive pretences. The magistrates were, by the regent, allowed to lease the site of the Black friars on ground-rent. The revenues of the Black friars house became considerable. The rental contains 234 articles of their rents. The grants which were given to them, and the anniversary obits which were made in return, for lands and benefactions, were no fewer than 97. Maitl. Edin., 182. (c) Spottiswoode, 499. That convent stood on the south side of the grass market, with fine gardens annexed. The magistrates of Edinburgh in 1562, with the queen's consent, converted those gardens into a spacious cemetery. Maitl. Edin., 23-4. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 761 13th of April (e). Here a colony of Carmelites was settled. After the Refor- mation had exploded such establishments, John Robertson, a beneficent merchant, settled on the same site a hospital for leprous persons (/). There seem to have never been many nunneries in Edinburgh. There was a convent of Cistercian nuns established in St. Mary's Wynd by the uncertain piety of the 12th century (g). On the south side of Edinburgh, near the city wall, a convent of nuns was dedicated to St. Mary of Placentia ; and the place of its foundation was called from it, by corruption, the Pleasance (h). On the burgh-moor, there was a convent of Dominican nuns, which was founded by Lady Saint Clair of Roslin, the Countess of Caithness, in the 15th century ; and dedicated to Saint Catherine of Sienna, the reformer of such nuns. They obtained some lands in the vicinity, and some tenements in Edinburgh (i). There was a priest who was attached to this convent (k). The place where this convent stood was called Siennes, and by corruption Sheens. The poet Lyndsay, in his Satire of the Three Estates, alludes to the honest and industrious lives of those nuns ; and he sends Chastity to their convent as a proper asylum. After the Reformation had involved such establishments in discredit, the magis- trates of Edinburgh seized the revenues of the worthy nuns ; and Dame Christian Ballenden, the prioress, was thereby induced to apply to the queen, in order to oblige them to pay Beatrice Blackadder, an aged sister, the small portion of victual which had been allotted for her subsistence, being the rent of a tenement which her father had granted to the convent, and was now appropriated by the magistrates (I). Collegiate churches in the proper sense are but modern. In 1466 the magistrates of Edinburgh procured a charter from James III. for erecting their ancient church of St. Giles into a collegiate form ; and its establishment con- sisted of a provost, a curate, sixteen prebendaries, a sacrist, a bedel, a minister of the choir and four choristers, which was the largest collegiate establish- ment in Scotland, except the chapel royal at Stirling. For the support of (e) MS. Donations. (/) Maitl. Edin., 214. (g) Spottiswoode, 516. The lane, where the convent stood, was from it called St. Mary's Wynd, being consecrated to the Virgin. (A) Maitl. Edin., 176. (t) MS. Donations. (*) Id. (/) Arnot's Edin.. 251, and Maitl. 24, vent their indignation at that specimen of uncharitable- ness. The revenues of this convent, which were given in at the suppression, were, in money, £129 6s. 8d. Scots ; in victual, 8 bolls of wheat, 6 bolls of beer, and one barrel of salmon. Books of the Collectors of the Thirds. In the roll and rental of small benefices, the priory of the Schei/nes is stated at 800 marks. 762 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. those officers were allotted the whole revenues of the numerous altars and chapelries, that pious people had founded within this church through several ages. To the king was reserwed the nomination of the dean or provost of this collegiate establishment, who was to enjoy the tithes and other revenues of St. Giles's church, with the adjacent manse, and the provost had the right of choosing a curate, who was to be allowed yearly 25 marks, with a house adjoining (m). William Forbes, the provost of this college, was obliged in 1482 to institute a suit in parliament against the magistrates for recovering his salary of 220 marks. The lords auditors, on seeing the obligation of the magistrates with the king's confirmation, ordained them to pay the provost's salary on pain of imprisonment in Blackness castle (n). Gawin Douglas, the celebrated translator of Virgil, enjoyed this rich endowment under James IV. and James V. before he was raised to the bishopric of Dunkeld. In 1546 Robert Crichton, the provost of St. Giles's, was prosecuted in parliament for purchasing of the pope the bishopric of Dunkeld (o). Mary of Guelder, the widowed queen of James II., founded near Edinburgh in 1462, on the north, a collegiate church for a provost, eight chaplains, two choristers or singing boys, and an hospital adjoining for thirteen poor persons. For the support of this collegiate establishment she assigned by apostolic authority the various churches and revenues of the house of Soltre. Her foundation was confirmed in the same year by James, bishop of St. Andrews (p). Mary, the foundress, died on the 16th of November 1463, and was buried in her own foundation (q). Sir Edward Boncle was the first provost of the Trinity College, and he was soon obliged to apply to parliament for enforcing the payment of his rents in Teviotdale (r). James IV. in 1502 granted to the provost and prebendaries of this collegiate church, the lands of Powis and Camestoun, with a walk-mill in Sth'lingshire (s). The provost of the Trinity College sat in the parliament of June 1526, and was appointed one of the auditors of causes (t). In 1567 the whole of this establishment was granted by the regent Murray to Sir Simon Preston, the provost of Edinburgh, and was by him given to the magistrates, and they were diligent to purchase of (m) Maitl. Edin., 271, where the stipends of the several members of the collegiate church are specified for the illustration of manners, (n) Pari. Eec, 285. (o) lb., 693. The simoniacal offence of Crichton was a breach of an act of parliament against such purchases of the pope. (p) Maitl. Edin., 207-10. (q) Lesley, 314. (r) Pari. Rec, 174-256-7. (s) MS. Donations. (t) Pari. Eec, 557. Sect, VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 7G3 Robert Pont, the last provost, his rights in the collegiate establishment, which were confirmed by King James in 1587 (u). On the site of the university of Edinburgh stood of old a collegiate church, which was consecrated to the Virgin, and called the church of St. Mary in the field. The age of this founda- tion and the piety of the founder are equally forgotten. It had a provost, eight chaplains, and two choristers. Two additional chaplainries were endowed under James V. ; one by James Laing, a burgess of Edinburgh, and the other by Janet Kennedy, the Lady Both well (x). In 1562 the magistrates applied to the queen for the place, kirk, chambers, and houses of the kirk in the field, to build a school. The queen assented; and they purchased in 1563 the right of the provost, Penycuick, and in 1581 they acquired other rights, when they obtained a charter for erecting the college (y). In the meantime, at Kirk of field, was acted one of the most extraordinary tragedies that any age or any country has witnessed. In a lone house, standing at the Kirk in the field, in the night, between the 9th and 10th of February, 1567, was Darnley, the husband of Queen Mary, assassinated by Earl Both well, who was encouraged to perpetrate so odious a deed by the unscrupulous faction who then domineered in Scotland (2). In this shire, without the contaminated walls of Edinburgh, there were other collegiate establishments. At Corstorphine, Sir John Forrester, who was appointed master of the household to James I. in 1424, and chamberlain of Scotland in 1425, founded, near the parish church of Corstorphine, a chapel which he dedicated to Saint John, with three chaplains, whom he endowed, for performing divine service in it. This establishment he enlarged in 1429 to a collegiate church, for a prior, six prebendaries, and two singing boys. For their support he assigned various rents, tithes, and churches. This founda- tion was confirmed by a bull of Eugene, by a charter of Bishop Wardlaw of St. Andrews in 1429, and by a charter of Bishop Kennedy in 1440 (a). Sir John Forrester died in 1440, and was buried in the choir of his collegiate church (b). In 1384 Sir James Douglas of Dalkeith founded near his castle a chapel, which he endowed with the lands of Lochurd and forty shillings out (w) Maitl. Edin., 211. Pont had, for the assignment of his provostry, 300 marks and an annuity of £160 Scots. The revenues, which were reported at the suppression, were £362 6s. 8d. Scots. Ib., 210. (x) MS. Donations, and Spottiswoode, 525. (y) Maitl. Edin., 23-356. (2) Birrel's Diary, 7. (a) Sir Lewis Stewart's Collections. (b) Crawfurd's Officers of State, 311. The revenue of this establishment, which was given in after the Reformation, was only £122 13s. 4d. Scots. Books of the Col. of the Thirds. 764 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. of the lands of Kirkurd, in Peebleshire (b). In 1406 Sir James Douglas, with the consent of Bishop Wardlaw of St. Andrews, enlarged this establish- ment into a collegiate church, for a provost and several prebendaries, on whom he settled a competent endowment (c). Alexander Gifford, the pai'son of New- lands, founded two chaplainries in the church of Dalkeith. These foundations were confirmed by the king's charter in 1504 (d). At Roslin, in 1446, was founded a collegiate church by William Saint Clair, the Earl of Orkney and Lord of Roslin, for a provost, six prebendaries, and two choristers or singing boys ; and he endowed it with various lands and revenues. It was consecrated to Saint Matthew the apostle. He here erected a splendid chapel, which is still admired by every eye for its elegant design and excellent work- manship (e). After all his efforts and a vast expense, he left Roslin chapel unfinished. It was founded on a height, which was called from it College hill, and which forms the northern bank of the Esk. Some additions were made to the endowment by the succeeding barons of Roslin. In 1523 Sir William Saint Clair granted some lands in the vicinity of the chapel for dwelling- houses and gardens, and other accommodations, to the provost and preben- daries. In his charter he mentions four altars in this chapel ; one dedicated to Saint Matthew, another to the Virgin, a third to Saint Andrew, and a fourth to Saint Peter (f). The commencement of the Reformation by tumult was the signal for violence and spoliation. The provost and prebendaries of Roslin felt the effects of this spirit. They were despoiled of their appropriate revenues ; and in 1572 they were obliged to relinquish their whole property, (b) Dougl. Peer., 490. (c) Sir Lewis Stewart's Collections. In May 1453, James Douglas, " prepositus de Dalkeith," had a safe conduct to go into England with Earl Douglas. Ryin., xi., 326. (d) MS. Donations. After the Eefomiation the revenues of this collegiate church was given in at only £36 13s. 4d. Books of the Col. of the King's Thirds. (e) The founder succeeded his father Henry Saint Clair, Earl of Orkney, in 1420. As admiral of the fleet, he conveyed the Princess Margaret to France in 1436. He was chancellor of Scotland from 1454 to 1458, and he was made Earl of Caithness in 1455. In 1470 he resigned the earldom of Orkney to the king, and obtained in return various lands in Fife. Having in 1459 settled the barony of Newburgh in Aberdeenshire, on William, his only son by his first wife, Lady Margaret Douglas, he, in 1476, settled the barony of Eoslin and his other estates in Lothian, on Oliver Saint Clair, his eldest son by his second marriage, and he trans- ferred the earldom of Caithness, to William, the second son of his second marriage. The eminent founder of Roslin chapel died soon after this settlement, which deranged his estates and degraded his family. Robertson's Index, 151. (/) Hay's MS. Mem., ii., 350. Sect VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BRIAIN. 765 which, indeed, had been withheld from them during many revolutionary years (g). Beneath this chapel was the burial place of the barons of Roslin, a spacious vault, said Slezer, in 1693, so dry that the bodies have been found in it entire at the end of eighty years. Ten barons of the family of Roslin had been here buried before the Revolution. They were of old, says Hay, buried in their armour without any coffin ; the late baron being the first that was buried in a coffin, against the opinion of the Duke of York, who was then in Scotland, and of several antiquaries ; but his widow would not hearken to such a pro- posal, thinking it beggarly to be buried after that manner (h). There were other eminent personages who were collaterally connected with this respectable family buried in that silent vault. This chapel, of which a nation may boast, was defaced by the same ungoverned mob that pillaged the castle of Roslin on the night of the 11th of December 1688 (i). Roslin chapel, however, is fre- quently visited ; and has been often delineated (£). The ingenious curiosity, perhaps, the piety, of the Countess of Sutherland and Marchioness of Stafford, led her lately to visit this celebrated chapel, of which she has given several very picturesque sketches (I). The chancellor of Scotland, William Lord Crichton, in December 1449, with the consent of his son, converted the church of Crichton into a collegiate form, for a provost, eight prebendaries, and two singing boys ; and with the assent of the bishop of St. Andrews, the founder assigned to this establishment the whole revenues of the churches of Crichton and Locherwart, a competent provision being made for the perpetual vicars, who were to serve in those churches. Sir Peter Crichton, the parson of Locherwart, gave his consent ; and the foundation was confirmed by James, bishop of St. Andrews (in). (i-booth Row, and other closes, wynds, and streets ; " and he, in order to show his antiquarian learning, informs his reader 778 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. The north-ivest compartment of St. Giles's church, which, had been a prison, was now fitted up as a church, by the name of Haddo's Hole ; as one Haddo had been herein long confined for whatever crime of treason against the covenant or the king. The historian of Edinburgh gives vent to his indigna- tion at the irreverent names which were appropriately given to its churches (d). There is certainly nothing very promotive of devotion in the names of the Tolbooth kirk, Haddo's Hole, or the Tron. Sarcasm has said that under the ancient regimen, ignorance supposed the paternoster to be a saint. It may be suspected of the fanaticism of 1641, without much uncharitableness, that the folly which could substitute the name of the Tron for Christ Church, might suppose some saint to be couched under the consecration to Jesus Christ. When the increased population of the New Town required an additional place of worship, the magistrates, with great propriety, dedicated this church to St. Andrew ; their city being the domicile of all Scotsmen in foreign parts. In what- ever quarter of the globe Scotsmen reside, the name of Saint Andrew collects them into a society, promotes their sociability, incites their charity, and inspires their patriotism. Edinburgh has always been the pious seat of many chapels. Though the Revolution abolished the temporal rights of episcopacy, it did not take away its spirituality ; and in 1709, James Greenshields, clerk, opened a chapel in Edinburgh, wherein he administered to several persons who were of the English church. The presbytery of Edinburgh, the magistrates of Edinburgh, and the Court of Session, concurred in thinking his conduct punishable as illegal. He appealed to the supreme judicatory of the Peers in parliament, who reversed that the Flemings, who usually brought woollen cloth, which they called Lacken, gave this name to the row of shops where the Lacken was sold ; and yet Lucken, in the Saxon, means shut ; covered booths, in contradistinction to the open booths, of the street. (d) Maitl. Edin., 179-80, describes the new parish of Haddo's Hole. There was a new parish laid out in 1722, with an additional church, which was called the New Gray Friars Church; and in the subsequent year Edinburgh was divided into nine parishes. Ib., 188. And St. Giles's church was now formed into four places of worship : 1st, The High Church, or New Church ; 2nd, The Old Church ; 3rd, The Tolbooth Church ; and 4th, Haddo's Hole, or the Little Church. In addition to all those services, the aisle of St. Giles's church, which is venerable for its antiquity and dignified by its retrospections, is fitted up for the annual meetings of the General Assembly of the Scottish church, with a throne for the royal representative. When St. Andrew's church was erected in the New Town, the ten parishes of the present time were established, though without precluding the new arrangements, which an augmented population and sound piety might thereafter dictate. Sect, VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 779 the sentence of the magistrates and the decree of the College of Justice (e). It is not easy to express how much true charity was now extended by this reversal. In 1722, the chief baron Smith endowed a chapel at the foot of the Gray Friars Wynd, for those holding communion with the church of England (f). In 1771 was founded in the Cowgate a capacious chapel for the English communion, which was properly ornamented and even painted by Runciman. Arnot delights to describe this elegant chapel, with its altar, its organ, and its spire, which is accommodated by the bell which had belonged to the chapel royal of Holy rood house (g). Before the year 1802, a great variety of other chapels were erected in this metropolis, which shows the pro- gress of its population, of its opulence, and its freedom of thought, as well as its universal charity (h). (e) Robertson's Cases, 15. This adjudication was immediately followed by the 10th Anne, ch. 7, to prevent disturbing the episcopal communion in Scotland. (/) Arnot's Edin., 287. An intolerant populace did not regard this chapel with a favourable eye, and they demolished several of its windows. Caledonian Mercury, No. 347. In December 1723, the episcopal ministers of several meeting-houses were brought before the magistrates, for not being qualified according to law, and not praying for the king. lb., 577. Two other episcopal chapels were built in 1747. Arnot, 284; and before 1750 there were settled five other chapels; a Roman Catholic chapel, a French chapel, and several meeting-houses of Independents and Quakers. MaitL Edin., 215. (g) Arnot, 284-6. (/i) The subjoined detail not only shows the number of churches and chapels in Edinburgh, but the comparative wealth of their several congregations ; being an extraordinary collection which was made on the 3rd of January 1802, for the Charity Work-house, in the following Churches : Chapels: In St. Andrew's Church - - £63 9 3 New Episcopal Chapel - £37 7 8A The High Church - 29 4 5 Charlotte Chapel - - 27 4 6 Lady Tester's Church - 28 5 5 Relief Meeting - 24 14 9 The Tron Church - 23 17 11 The Tabernacle - - 15 5 Hi The Tolbooth Church - - 23 12 H Lady Glenorchy's Chapel - - 14 8 H The New North Church - - 19 5 9 Peddie's Congregation - 12 12 8 The New Gray Friars Church - 14 7 H Nicholson's Street Meeting - - 12 3 0 The Old Gray Friars Church - 14 1 0 Hall's Meeting - 10 10 6 The Old Church - 8 3 H Baptist Congregation - 10 1 11 The College Church 3 17 H Drummond's Chapel 6 18 0 Independent Meeting 4 6 0 £228 8 H Universalists' Society 1 14 H 177 8 4 £177 8 4 £405 16 H 780 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. In the castle of Edinburgh, even before the accession of David I., there was an appropriate chapel which was probably built by Margaret, the pious queen of Malcolm Canmore (i). In 1291, many persons swore fealty to Edward I. " in capella castri puellarum (k)." Robert II. granted to St. Margaret's chapel in the castle, an annuity of £8 out of the customs of Edinburgh (I). The chapel of the castle formed a conspicuous object in the ancient maps of Edin- burgh. In August 1704, Walter Smith, clerk, the minister of the castle, petitioned the parliament, " craving payment of £75 sterling, owing to him for his stipend, free of poundage and invalid money ; " but he was remitted to the committee of public accounts for his debts, and to the treasury for what might become due (to). This chapel seems to be extra-parochial, having its own district with peculiar privileges (n). The church of St. Cuthbert is unquestionably ancient, perhaps as old as the age which followed the demise of the worthy Cuthbert, towards the end of the seventh century, It is older than record in Scotland. It had several grants before the charter of Holyrood (o). St. Cuthbert's church, with its parish and its kirk- town and all its rights were granted, as we have seen, by David I. to the monks of Holyrood. He also granted to them the two chapels which belonged to St. Cuthbert's church, Corsiorphine, with two bovates and six acres of land, and the chapel of Liberton, with two bovates of land and all its rights ; and he moreover conferred on those monks the tithes of all the fishings which belonged to St. Cuthbert's church on the Forth, There was a Gaelic chapel founded on the south side of the Castle-hill in 1767, and finished in 1779. Arnot, 283. A Eoman Catholic chapel was built in 1778, and burnt in 1779. Ib., 288 ; Edin. Guide, 32-3. (?) David I. granted to the monks of Holyrood, as we know from his charter, ecclesiam castelli, with all its lights. (k) Eym., ii., 569-71. (I) Eobert III., on his accession in 1390, confirmed this grant. Eegist. Eob. III. Eot., x. 9. (wi) Minutes of the 25th August 1704 ; and the unprinted acts of that date, (n) Maitl. Edin., 142-65. (o) Macbeth of Liberton, who nourished early in David's reign, granted to the church of St. Cuth- bert the tithes and oblations of Legbernard, a church which cannot now be traced. Chart. St. Crucis. David I., soon after his accession, granted to St. Cuthbert's church, " juxta castellum," the whole land, under the same castle, viz., " a fonte qui oritur juxta angulum gardini reg. per viam," which went to the same church ; on the other side, from the castle, to another way, which is under the castle, towards the east. MS. Col. of Charters from the Autograph. This description seems to be imperfect ; yet the limits of St. Cuthbert's parish surrounded almost the whole town, and included the burgh-moor. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 781 including Newhaven ( p). At that epoch, St. Cuthbert's, as it was the oldest, was the most extensive parish in the lowlands of Mid-Lothian. At that period St. Cuthbert's was the most valuable church in Scotland except Dunbar. In the ancient Taxatio, the church of St. Cuthbert " sub castro," in the deanery of Linlithgow was rated at 160 marks. Yet from that epoch, St. Cuthbert's, from being a mother church, with subordinate chapels and other rights, became a vicarage (q). Besides the high altar there were in St. Cuthbert's church several other altars which had been consecrated to various saints by pious votaries, with appropriate chaplains (r). St. Cuthbert's church had of old other chapels belonging to it. It had St. Mary's chapel at the foot of Chapel Wynd. On the burgh-moor it had St. John's chapel and St. Rogue's chapel. This last had a cemetery, to which leprous persons were sent from Edinburgh during the prevalence of the plague ; and in 1532, the magistrates granted to Sir John Young, the chaplain, four acres in the burgh-moor, for keeping in repair the chapel and praying for the souls of those who were buried in its cemetery. St. Rogue's chapel and its pertinents were converted after the Reformation into private property, by those men who could deride the piety of their fathers, and had little other pretensions to religion than grimace and zeal (s). At Newhaven there was a chapel which also belonged to St. Cuthbert's, and served for the worship of the fishers, while the monks of Holyrood enjoyed the tithes. In 1606, Newhaven and North-Leith were formed into a separate parish by dilapidating St. Cuthbert's. In 1633, this very ancient church and its patron- age were conferred on the bishopric of Edinburgh (t) ; but when this episcopate ceased at the Revolution, the patronage returned to the crown. * (p) Chart, of Holyrood in Maitl. Edin. That grant of David L was confirmed by several charters of the bishops of St. Andrews. (q) In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under James V., the vicarage of St. Cuthbert's, in the deanery of Linlithgow, was taxed at £6 6s. 8d. The same vicarage appears in the Tax Roll of the arch- bishop of St. Andrews, 1547. (r) MS. Donations. In October 1487, William Towers of Inverleith, granted an annuity of 14 marks for supporting a chaplain to officiate at St. Anne's altar in St. Cuthbert's church. Id. In January 1489, Alexander Currier, vicar of Haddington, granted various rents from tenements in Edinburgh, to support a chaplain to officiate at the Trinity altar in the same altar. Id. (s) Amot, 250, expresses his indignation at the improvidence and impiety of allowing the private appropriation of a burial ground, which might have been made so commodious to the city, for the same necessary purpose. (t) Charter of Erection. [" See "Church and Parish of St. Cuthbert," 1829]. 4 5 F 782 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. The Canongate parish is of very recent establishment. This suburb did not exist at the foundation of Holyrood Abbey, The canons were empowered to settle here a village, and from them the street of this settlement was called the Canongate, from the Saxon gaet, a way or street, according to the practice of the 12th and 13th centuries in Scotland and in England. The immunities which the canons and their villagers enjoyed from David's grant soon raised up a town, which extended from the abbey to the Nether- Port of Edinburgh ; and the townsmen performed their usual devotions in the church of the abbey till the Reformation reversed all this regimen. In the room of the abbot was now introduced by the king's grant a commendator, who enjoyed some of his privileges, and held as a trustee all his property. The temporal superiority of the Canongate was now transferred by the facility of James VI. to the Earl of Roxburgh, who sold it in 1636 to the magistrates of Edinburgh, and this bargain was confirmed by the charter of Charles I. in 1639 (u). In this manner then did the Canongate, as it was already a suburb, like Leith and other districts, become the dependency of Edinburgh, having resident magistrates, who were annually appointed by the town council of Edinburgh. Amidst this scramble for patronage, the abbey church of Holyrood continued to be used as the parish church of the Canongate with appropriate ministers (#). In 1672, however, the privy council, in pursuance of the king's order, directed the abbey church to be used in future as the chapel royal (y) ; yet was it still enjoyed by the parishioners for divine service, and it was not till 1687 that James VII. directed them to be excluded, and this chapel be appropriated to the Order of the Thistle (z). Owing to a pious bequest of Thomas Moodie, a merchant in Edinburgh, a fund had existed almost forty years for building a parish church, but amidst the public distractions and private mismanage- (u) Maitl. Edin., 148. In 1633 the bishop of Edinburgh was invested with the patronage of the abbey church ; and the parson of Holyrood was created, by the act of erection, one of the prebendaries of the new episcopate. When this establishment was cast down in 1638, the magistrates of Edin- burgh acquired the patronage of the abbey church, and obtained an act of confirmation from the rescinded parliament of 1640. (x) In 1640, the magistrates obtained a parliamentary ratification of the patronage of the abbey church. In 1663, the parliament passed an act concerning the stipends of the Canongate ministers. Unprinted Act. (y) Arnot, 253. (z) Fountainhall gives an account of that appropriation, i. 466. The inhabitants of the Canon- gate, whose church this was not of old, were ordained to go to Lady Tester's church, and the French minister and his congregation were sent to the High School. " So this," he adds, " is the first protestant church taken away from us." If James VII. had done nothing worse than this ! Sect. YTR—Its Ecclesiastical History.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 783 ment, that trust had remained unexecuted (a). The Canongate parish has two ministers. The patronage of the first belongs to the king, and of the second to the magistrates, the kirk-session, the heritors, and deacons of the eight in- corporated crafts of the Canongate (b).* [In 1887, there were in the city of Edinburgh 37 churches in communion with the Chui'ch of Scotland; 42 in com- munion with the Free Church ; 27 United Presbyterian Churches ; 22 Scottish Episcopal Churches and Missions ; 4 Roman Catholic Churches ; 7 Congrega- tional Churches ; 3 Evangelical Union Churches ; 4 Baptist Churches ; 1 United Original Seceders Church ; and 1 Wesleyan Methodist Church.] The influx of Leith water into the Forth was called of old Inver-leith, which has been abridged to Leith, like other towns in Scotland having similar names ; and a consideration of the Gaelic name carries the mind back to Celtic times, before the consecutive accessions to the throne of Malcolm Can- more's children. The inver, or issue of Leith, was a port and had a fishery, even before David L became king. At that epoch, the port and one half of the fishery of Inverleith, with the village of Xewhaven and the adjacent fields, which were all included in St. Cuthbert's parish, were conveyed by David L to the canons of Holyrood (c). North-Leith with the Castle-hill lying on the southern side of the river were parochially attached to the abbey church, where the inhabitants long performed their devotions. Under James IV., Robert Ballenden, the abbot of Holyrood, endowed a chapel in North-Leith, which he dedicated to St. Ninian, for the convenient worship of the people ; and he gave them an additional convenience by building a bridge of three arches, that connected the northern and southern sides of the port. This endowment, which comprehended some benefactions to the poor, was con- firmed by James IV. in January 1494 (a). This chapel was subordinate to the abbey church of Holyrood, till it was converted into a parish church in 1606. The patronage of old belonged to the abbots, and afterwards to the commen- (a) In 1649, Moodie bequeathed to the magistrates of Edinburgh 20.000 marks for building a church. In 1672, the people of the Canongate foreseeing their want of a church, informed the king of Moodie's legacy and of its fitness for building them a church. Maitl. Edin., 142. In 1681, that sum and its accumulations of interest were placed by parliament at the king's disposal. Unprinted Act ; and the whole was now assigned by James VII. to the original purpose of the pious Moodie, by building a church in the Canongate, wherein the old rights of individuals should be preserved. In pursuance of that direction, ground was purchased, and a church was built in 168S-9 at the expense of 43,000 marks Scots. It was built in form of a cross, and on the front were placed, in obvious allusion to the ancient legend, the figures of the head and bonis of a stag, with a cross erect. Maitl. Edin., 142-60. We may easily suppose that these emblems were set up before the Revolution, since " they figured the nature of the times deceased." (b) The greater part of the area and lofts of the Canongate church belongs either to the incorpor- ated trades, or to various noble families who were formerly connected with the king's household. Stat. Acco., vi., 566. [* See also Mackay's " Burgh of Canongate,'' 1879]. (c) Charter o; Holyrood in Maitland. (•). It continued, probably, with the canons of St. Anthony till the Reformation. The church of Hailes appears to have been always of great value, and it was rated in the ancient Taxatio at 60 marks. As the rectory was monastic property, the cure was of old served by a vicar. Thougrh the church of Hailes ceased to belong to the monks of Dunfermline, they continued superiors of the lands of East-Hailes till the Reformation. The family of Crichton held those lands of the monks of Dunfermline, for pay- ment of a certain feu-duty. On the forfeiture of William, Lord Crichton, in 1484, the lands of Hailes reverted to the abbot, as superior, who held them three-and-thirty years (/•). In 1506, Abbot James granted the estate of Hailes to Thomas Forester (5). The name of this parish has been changed in modern times to Colinton, as the parish church stands at the village of this name, on a flat, round which the water of Leith winds its circular course ; and the town of Colinton obviously obtained its modern appellation from some person called Colin, whose tun it was (t). The present parish church was built in 1773, and its manse in 1784. [The church was enlarged in 1S37 ; communicants 765. A Free Church at Juniper Green has 339 members; and a U. P. Church at Slate- ford has 87 members.] (0) MS. Monast. Scotiae. The grant of David was confirmed bv the bishop of St. Andrews. Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. CoL, and it was confirmed by a boll of Gregory in 1234. MS. Monast. Scotiae. (p) Beg. of St. Andrews.. 33. We are assured by Fordun, L viii., c 62.. William, the bishop of St. Andrews, withdrew from the monks of Dunfermline, the presentation of the vicarage of Hales ; ** qui a qaadam vice dam pernoctaret ibi, deficit sibi potus vini ad collationem suam in camera sua.'' (q) Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. CoL, No. 5. (r) Pari. Bee., 288. (r) Pari. Bee.. 307. (*) Chart. Dunfermline, 37. (r) The name was formerly written Colintoun. In 1609 Sir James Foulis of Colintoun was served heir to his father. Sir James, in the barony of Colintoun, comprehending the brew-lanis of Colintoun, with the corn and fulling mills, the lands of Swanstoun. Dreghorn, Bonalay, Badd.s, Pilmure, and Oxengangs. Inquisit. Speciales, iv., 282. Sect. VIII. , — Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 795 The parish of Currie was of old called Killeith or Killeleith, as it was variously written. It plainly obtained this Celtic name from the Gaelic cill, signifying a church or chapel, which was prefixed to the name of the water of Leith, on which stood the ancient church (u). There is still a hamlet that is named Killeith on the eastern side of Leith water near Currie. The church of Killeith was early of considerable value ; as in the ancient Taxatio it was rated at 50 marks. The parsonage of Killeith was of old the appropriate benefice of the archdeacon of Lothian, and thus continued to the Reformation. In 1296, William, archdeacon of Lothian, and parson of the church of Killeith, swore fealty to Edward I., who commanded the sheriff of Edinburghshire to restore him to his property (x). Currie appears to have become the name of this parish during the 15th century; yet, was the old name occasionally used, as we have seen, till recent times. Archibald Whitlaw, the archdeacon of Lothian, and Secretary of state to James III., and his successor, granted an annual rent of 12 marks from a tenement in Edinburgh, for supporting a chaplain to per- form divine service in the parish church of Currie; and this endowment was confirmed by James IV. in 1493 (y). As archdeacon of Lothian, Whitlaw was more than two-and- twenty years rector of the church of Currie. In 1584, James VI. granted to the newly founded college of Edinburgh, the parsonage and the vicarage of Currie, with the tithes, church-lands, glebe, and their pertinents, anciently called the archdeaconry of Lothian ; and this grant he confirmed to the city of Edinburgh in March 1603 (z). The town council of Edinburgh, owing to those grants, still enjoy the patronage of the church of Currie. The village of Currie, where church has stood for ages, is situated on both the sides of the river Leith, which here runs in a deep channel between steep banks. The name is merely the Gaelic Cuire, signifying a deep hollow, which, in fact, is here formed by the river. The Gaelic Cuire and Coire thus signifying a hollow, are found in many local names, which, in the vulgar use, have acquired the corrupted forms of Currie and Corrie. Those considera- (w) In 1609, Sir James Foulis of Colintoun was served heir to his father in the barony of Colin- toun, particularly in the church lands and glebe of the parish church of Currie, alias Kelleleith, with common of pasture in the lands and moor of Killeleith within the parish of Currie, and diocese of St. Andrews. Inquisit. Speciales, iv., 282. (x) Rym., ii., 724. (y) MS. Donations. (z) Haiti. Edin., 244-54. The annexation of the parsonage of Currie to the college of Edinburgh was ratified by the parliament of 1592. Act, No. 159. In 1636, Charles L confirmed the whole archdeaconry of Lothian to the city of Edinburgh for the use of the college. Haiti. Edin., 261. 796 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghsh ire. tions with regard to the names of Kil-leith and Currie, carry the mind back to the Gaelic times which succeeded the epoch of 1020, when the Scottish people acquired the predominancy here. The parish church, which stands upon a height above the village of Currie, is a modern edifice, which contributes to give picturesque beauty to the site. [In 1888 there were 575 communicants. A U.P. Church at Balerno has 162 members.] The parish of Ratho, from the name of the baronial residence of old, has the honour of a British name. The British Rhath, of which the plural is Rath-au, signifying a cleared spot, a bare place, a plain ; and in ancient charters the name is written Rathew and Ratheu (a). The ancient church of Ratho was consecrated to the Virgin, and near it there is a copious spring called our lady's well (b). This church was early of considerable value, and in the ancient Taxatio it is rated at 70 marks. Ratho was a rectory, of which the patronage appears to have belonged to the lord of the manor of Ratho, which was of considerable extent (c). The baron of Ratho during the Scoto- Saxon period cannot be easily ascertained. He probably forfeited his estate during the succession war, which made so many changes of property. In 1315, the barony of Ratho and other estates were granted by Robert I. to the Stewart of Scotland, in marriage with the king's daughter Marjory, who brought the Stewart's family the Scottish crown (d). On the accession of Robert II. to the throne in 1371, the barony of Ratho, with its pertinents, and the other estates of the Stewarts, were settled on the king's eldest son and heir, as the prince and Stewart of Scotland (e) ; and the whole estates of the Stewarts were formed, on the 10th of December 1404, into a principality, with regal jurisdiction (/). Charles II., as prince and Stewart of Scotland, granted several charters to his vassals in the barony of Ratho and Ratho-myre (g). Ratho remained an independent parsonage, of which the prince was patron, (a) See Owen's Diet, in vo. Rath. In the Gaelic and Irish, Bath has originally the same meaning, and secondarily, denotes a fenced dwelling, a village, a place of security, a fort. (b) Stat. Acco.. vii., 260. (c) In 1296, Richard, the parson of Ratheu, swore fealty to Edward L Prynne, iii., 661. In 1349, Richard Small, the rector of Rathau, witnessed a charter of Sir William Douglas. Hay's Vindication, 59. In 1351, Richard Small, the Rector of Ratheu, witnessed another charter at Dal- keith. Regist., Dav. II., No. 156. (d) Roberts. Index, 9. The original charter is in the Register House. (e) Chart, in the Pub. Archives ; published in Robertson's Index, and in Hay's Vindication. (/) There is a copy of this charter in Carmichael's Tracts, and in the MS. Mouast. Scotiae ; as, indeed, there was once a copy in the Register and among Haddington's Collections. (g) Regist., Cha. II., No. 108, 245, etc. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 797 even down to the reign of James II. (g). In 1429, on the establishment of the colleo-iate church of Corstorphine, the tithes of Ratho parish were granted for supporting its prebendaries (h). In this manner, then, did Ratho church become a parsonage under the provostry of Corstorphine (i). The Reformation un- doubtedly introduced a very different regimen. The church is ancient. It stands a little north of the kirk -town, and west of Ratho house, more than half a mile. [In 1888 there were 487 communicants, stipend £422. A Free Church has 170 members. St. Mary's Episcopal Church of Dalmahoy has 64 members. There is also a Roman Catholic chapel.] The present parish of Kirkxewtox consists of the parishes of Kirknewton and East-Calder, which were united about the middle of the eighteenth century. Kirknewton obviously derived its name from the hamlet of Newton, where the church was built, on purpose to distinguish the kirk-town from the neighbour- ino- village of East-Newton. This parish did not exist, at least under this name, at the epoch of the ancient Taxatio. During the reign of James IV., the par- sonage of Kirknewton was of some value. In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under James V., the rectory of Kirknewton was taxed at £5 6s. 8d. (&). Kirk- newton continued a separate parish till the year 1750 The two villages of East and West-Calder derived their names from the stream of the Colder which divides them, and a little below mixes its waters with the Almond. There are many riverets of this name both in North and South-Britain, and they all, probably, derived their British name from the shrubberies on their banks. The church of East-Calder was dedicated to St. Cuthbert. The manor of Calder was by Malcolm IV. granted to Rudulph de Clere, and from him it became known by the name of Cdlder-Clere, to distinguish it from Calder- Comitis, the adjoining manor. At the accession of William the Lion, Rudulph granted to the monks of Kelso the church of Caledour and its rights, upon condition that they allowed him to have, within his court, a private chapel, without detriment to their mother church. This intimation seems to show that the patronage of the rectory was then in the monks (I). He granted afterward to the monks, and to St. Cuthbert 's Church of Calder, the tenth of the multure of his mill of Calder (m), and those grants of the liberal Rudulph were con- (g) Alexander Lauder, a son of Sir Alan Lauder of Halton, was rector of Ratho during the reigns of James I. and James EL, and was consecrated the bishop of Dankeld in May, 1440, but died on the 11th of October in the some year. Bower. 1. xvi., 26. (h) Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. Col., 24. (i) Keith, 285. (k) The same rectory appears in the Tax Roll of the archbishop of St. Andrews. 1547. (/) Chart. Kelso, 345. (m) lb.. 346. 4 5 H 798 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. firmed by William the Lion, and Richard the Bishop (n). In the ancient Taxatio the church of Calder-Clere was only rated at 30 marks. In the rental of Kelso, during Robert I.'s reign, the monks considered the church of Calder, which they held "in rectoria," to be worth yearly £26 13s. 4d., according to ancient use (o). The church of Calder-Clere continued with the monks of Kelso, and was served by a vicar till the Reformation exploded such estab- lishments. The barony of Calder-Clere became forfeited during the succession war, and was granted in 1306, by Robert I., to James Douglas of Lothian, the progenitor of the Earls of Morton (p). After the Reformation, the Earl of Morton, who was now baron of Calder-Clere, acquired the advowson of the church, and with it the right of the monks to the tenth of the multure of the mill of Calder (q). At the epoch of pi'esbyteries the parish of Calder-Clere was attached to the presbytery of Linlithgow. It continued thus annexed till about the year 1750, when the parishes of Kirknewton and Calder- Clere were united, and when both were annexed to the presbytery of Edinburgh. The patronage of the united parish was now declared to belong, by turns, to the Duke of Buccleuch and the Earl of Morton, the two patrons of the separate parishes. A new church and manse were built for the united church in a central situation, and to this new church was given the name of Kirknewton, as the appropriate name of the united parish. Thus much, then, with regard to the parishes and churches within the presbytery of Edinburgh. Let us now proceed to an investigation of the same objects within the presbytery of Dalkeith, which comprehends fifteen parishes. Dalkeith is also the name of a parish as well as the seat of a presbytery, and this dis- tinguished name is, no doubt, derived from its confined location by the con- fluence of the North and South -Esk. Ded-caeth, in the Celtic, literally (71) Chart. Kelso, 13-450 : and the same grants were confirmed by successive bishops and priors of St. Andrews, as we see in the same chartulary. (o) Chart. Kelso, 31. (p) Eoberts. Index, 7. Robert I. confirmed this manor to William Douglas, the heir of James of Lothian. Ib., 43. (q) In 1541 the barony of Calder-Clere was confirmed by James V. to James Earl of Morton, who died in 1553 without the advowson of the church. In 1564, James, his successor, the well-known Morton, who fell under the axe of the law after committing a thousand crimes, obtained from the queen, whom he dethroned, a confirmation of all his lands, with the barony of Calder-Clere and the advowson of the churches and chapels. Pari. Rec, 763. In 1606, William, Earl of Morton, was served heir to his grandfather in his various estates, including the barony of Calder-Clere with the advowson of the churches. Inquisit. Speciales, iv., 308. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 799 signifies the confined dale (r). The parish of Dalkeith appears not in the ancient Taxatio, as it did not then exist. Its origin is obscure and modern. As the manor of Dalkeith had, from the grant of David L, belonged to the opulent family of the Grahames, we may easily suppose that they had a chapel belong- ing to their court. In 1377, Robert II. confirmed a charter of Sir James Douglas of Dalkeith, granting the lands of Quylt and Fethan, in Peebles-shire, for the support of a chaplain in the chapel of Dalkeith. In 1406, Sir James Douglas enlarged the chapel of Dalkeith into a collegiate church, as we have seen ; and we perceive, in Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under James V., the Prepositura de Dalkeith, in the deanery of Haddington, is taxed only at £3 6s. 8d. (s). We are thus led to recollect its collegiate form, and to perceive that there was no parish church of Dalkeith till after the Reformation, that introduced a different regimen (t). The advowson of the chapel must have been always annexed to the manor. Throughout the Scoto-Saxon period the Grahames enjoyed the manor of Dalkeith with the advowson of the chapel. John Grahame of Dalkeith resigned the whole manor with its pertinents to William Douglas, the heir of Sir James Douglas of Lothian, in marriage with his daughter Margaret, during the reign of David II. (u). Such, then, was the nature and the epoch of the transfer of Dalkeith from the Grahames to a very different family. The Douglasses of Lothian sprung from the original stock in Douglasdale, in the person of Archibald de Douglas, who died in 1238, the grandson of Theobald, the Fleming (x). Such, then, were the (r) For its location see the map of Lothian, and for the meaning of the name see Richard and Owen's diet, in vo. Caeth, which, in the form of Keith, everywhere in North-Britain, conveys the idea of contraction or narrowness. Thei'e is a Dalkaeth in Perthshire, on the Doven, which, below the Rumbling Brig, runs amid rocks, narrow and confined. Stobie's map. In a charter of Robert I., it is written Dalkeith. Roberts. Index, 24. On a rivulet, which falls into the Irvine, in Kyle, there is a place which was formerly called Dalkeith. Pont's Survey of Kyle ; but it has been since corrupted into Dan-keith. Armstrong's map of Ayr. (s) The Prepositura of Dalkeith is also mentioned in the archbishop's Tax Roll of 1547. (t) When the chancellor Morton obtained from Queen Mary in 1564 a confirmation of his estates, it included the advowson of the college, and prebendaries of the collegiate church of Dalkeith with its pertinents. Pari. Rec, 763. The specification of such matters to such a man shows clearly that there was then no parish of Dalkeith. (m) Roberts. Index, 40-44, and Dougl. Peer., 489. (a?) William, the son of Andrew of Linlithgowshire, the son of Archibald, swore fealty to Edward I. in 1296. Prynne, iii. 660. This William was then called Fitz andreic, to distinguish him from William de Douglas of Douglas, the chief. William, the son of Andrew, left James his heir, who flourished under Robert I., and obtained from him, as we have seen, Calder-Clere. 800 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. origin and descent of the Douglasses of Lothian and Dalkeith. William Douglas of Dalkeith was succeeded by James Douglas, his nephew, who died in 1420, after a long life, and after giving some lands and rents, in 1384, to the chapel of Dalkeith (y). His son James was made a lord of parliament by the title of Lord Dalkeith under James L, and his grandson, James, the third Lord Dalkeith, was, in March 1457-8, created Earl of Morton by James II. The earldom, and the estates and patronages belonging to it, were forfeited and other lands. Crawfurd's Peerage, 350. Before the demise of Bobert L, died Sir James Douglas of Lothian, leaving William, his heir, and two other sons. It was this William who obtained Dalkeith in marriage with Margaret Graham, as we have just seen. During the dis- tracted reign of David EL, history and record are perplexed by the number of Douglases of the same name of William. Whether Williaru Douglas, who married Margaret Grahame, or William Douglas of Polbothy, who married Elizabeth, were the knight of Liddesdale, has occasioned mighty differences among the genealogists ; but I have settled those differences by the decisive inferences of facts in favour of William of Polbothy, the bastard son of good Sir James Douglas of Douglas. See the note before, in p. 117-18. It seems equally certain that William Douglas of Lothian and Dalkeith, obtained from David LI. grants of Liddesdale, Eske, and Ewys, in December 1342. Dougl. Peer. 489, who quotes a charter in the Archives of Morton ; Bobertson's Index, 39-40, confirms that intimation ; and there is an inspeximus charter of the same William Douglas, who calls himself dominus de Liddesdale, dated at Dalkeith the 7th of April 1351. Begist. David II. lib. i., 156. This ascertains the grants of 1342 not to have been made to William Douglas of Douglas, as supposed by some. See before in this vol. 119. We may now perceive that William Douglas of Lothian and Dalkeith, was laird of Liddesdale ; while William Douglas of Polbothy, was knight of Liddesdale. There is another proof of the same point, which is quite decisive as to this litigated question. William Douglas of Lothian and Dalkeith, calling hianself dominus de Liddesdale, dated his charter just mentioned at Dalkeith, where he was then present, on the 7th of April 1351. Now Williaru Douglas of Polbothy, the knight of Liddesdale, was then a close prisoner in England ; and the indenture, which was made by Edward III. with William Douglas, son prisoner," upon his freedom, "super liberatione, et retentione in servitio regis,'' was dated at London the 17th of July 1352. Bym. v., 738-40. We now see clearly the true causes which induced so many writers to confound those two persons of the same name : and we may also perceive the cause which moved William Douglas of Douglas, to direct William Douglas, the knight of Liddesdale, to be assassinated in 1353 ; the same knight being retained by Edward III., of whom he had obtained a grant of Liddesdale, to which Douglas of Douglas had his pretensions. William Douglas, the laird of Dalkeith and Liddesdale, was alive in 1351, but was dead before 1369. when charters speak of him as quondam William Douglas, and when his only child, Mary, was also dead. (y) Douglas Peer. 490, quotes the charter of endowment. He founded a hospital also, near the chapel of Dalkeith in 1396. Ib., 491. Bobert III., in 1403, granted to James Douglas of Dalkeith, who had married the king's daughter, Elizabeth, a pension out of the customs of Edinburgh. Boberts. Index, 140 ; and the same king, in 1391, confirmed the grant of James Douglas of Dalkeith, to James Douglas, his heir, of the castle and town of Dalkeith, and of other lands, to the extent of 500 marks. Ib., 153. Sect. Yin.— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] Of KOBTH-BBITAIN. 801 when the well-known Regent Morton expiated his many crimes on the appro- priate scaffold in 1581. At the accession of James VI., the palace of Dalkeith was said "to be reserved for the use of the prince, with the orchard, gardens, banks, and wood adjacent (a)." In 1606, however. William, Earl of Morton, was served heir to his grandfather in the baron j and burgh of Dalkeith, with the advowson of the church of Dalkeith (b). In 1642, this estate, with the patronage of the church, was purchased of the Earl of Morton by Francis, Earl of Buccleuch (c). But it was the amiable Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch and Monmouth, who was the first of the Scotts who resided here, and made it fit for the residence of so dignified a family. Dalkeith was one of the four presbyteries which were given in to the assembly of 1593 (d). Yet the parish of Dalkeith consisted only of the ancient barony. In 1633, the adjacent barony of Lugton was taken from the old parish of Melville and annexed to Dal- keith (e). The church of Dalkeith is old. The manse of the minister was built in 1631. Dalkeith, like other free and populous towns, abounds with dissenters, with Burghers and Antiburghers, with Belief-men, and Methodists (/). The Duke of Buccleuch. as he is lord both of Lugton and Dalkeith, is superior of the whole parish, and proprietor of three-fourths of it (g). [The old or East Church was restored in 1852 ; communicants 1017 : stipend £550. The West Church (1840) has 353 communicants. A Free Church has 438 members. Three U. P. Churches have 962 members. There are also Episcopal, Roman Catholic, Congregational, Evangelical Union, Baptist and Methodist Churches.] The neighbouring parish of Ixveresk, plainly derived its interesting name from the Gaelic Liver, the confluence of the Esk with the Forth, the EsJc-muthe of the Northumbrian Saxons. At the epoch of record there existed two manors of this name, Great-Inveresk and Little-lnveresk. The manor of Little-Inveresk was gi-anted by Malcolm Canmore and Margaret, his queen, to the monks of Dunfermline ; and their grant was confirmed by a charter of David I., who added a donation of Great-Inveresk. with the mill, the fishing, and the church of Inveresk, its tithes and other pertinents (h). The gift of (a) Certain Matters of Scotland. 1603. Yet was it restored to the Earl of Morton. (b) Inquisit. Speciales. (c) Stat. Aceo.. xiL, 26 : and yet during the reigns of James VI., Charles L, and the usurpation of Cromwell, the palace of Dalkeith seems to have been used as the king's house. (d) Calderwood, 286. (e) Unprinted Act, 1633. The same parliament made an act concerning " the parsonage of Dal- keith and the payment of the taxation thereof.'" Id. In 1633 the parson of Dalkeith was constituted one of the prebendaries of the bishopric of Edinburgh. Chart, of Erection. (f) Stat. Acco., xiL, 22-5. (g) lb... 22. (/<) Chart. Dunfermline : MS. Mona?t. Scotia?. Those giants were confirmed by David's successors and by a bull of Gregory IX. in 1234. Id. 802 An ACCOUNT [Cb. V. — Edinburghshire. Great-Inveresk included the burgh and port of Musselburgh at Esh-muhe ; and this town derived its name from an extensive mussel bank lying in the Forth, at no great distance from the confluence of the Esk. Alexander II. established a free warren within the manors of Inveresk and Musselburgh, in favour of the monks of Dunfermline (*'). From the grants of David I., the monks enjoyed a baronial jurisdiction over all those lands, and they afterward obtained their baronial jurisdiction to be enlarged into a regality. The church of Inveresk was dedicated to St. Michael, the archangel. It was in early times, from its location and populous parish, of great value, and it was rated in the ancient Taxatio by the name of Muscilburg, at 70 marks. The monks enjoyed the revenues of the parsonage, while the cure was served by a vicar. Even the vicars of Musselburgh appear as witnesses to many charters among men of consequence (k). Early in the 13th century a dispute arose between the monks and the vicar, which was settled by the diocesan bishop, who directed that the vicar should enjoy the small tithes and the offerings at the altars of Musselburgh, excepting the fish of every sort, and the tithes of the mills belonging to the monks, for which the vicar was directed to pay yearly 10 marks (/). In the church of Inveresk there were several altars, with their chaplains, who were endowed for performing at them their appropriate worship (m). In this parish there were of old various chapels which were subordinate to the mother church. Here was the celebrated chapel of our Lady of Loretto, at the east end of Musselburgh, with the Hermit's cell adjoining (n). During the Earl of Hertford's ravages, in May 1544, he destroyed the chapel of our Lady of Loretto, with a part of the town (o). It was soon repaired, but it was finally abolished at the Reformation, and in 1590 the materials of the chapel, which had once so many votaries, were converted by unhallowed hands to the (»") Chart. Dunfermline. (k) Id. (/) lb., fo. 26. In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under James V., the vicarage of Musselburgh was taxed at £5 6s. 8d. This vicarage is also recorded in the archbishop's Tax Roll, 1547. MS. Donations. In 1475, Sir Simon Preston of Craigmillar gave an annual rent of ten marks out of the lands of Cameron to a chaplain in Musselburgh church for such appropriate worship. James III. confirmed this grant. Id. (n) To this chapel of Loretto many pilgrimages were performed, where miracles were supposed to be wrought. In August 1530, as we learn from Lesley, 442, James V. performed a pilgrimage on foot to this chapel from Stirling, before his voyage in quest of a suitable wife among the daughters of France. During that age, Lindsay, the satirist, exclaimed against such pilgrimages to our Lady of Loretto, to the Hermit, and against the effects of such meetings of young men and women. (o) Old Acco. of the Expedit., 11. Sect. VIII. — Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH - BRITAIN. 803 building of the tolbooth of Musselburgh. The site of this chapel and hermi- tage is now occupied as the villa of a gentleman who knows how to value both the location and the name of Loretto ( p). At no great distance west- ward, there was of old a chapel, which was dedicated to Mary Magdalene, with appropriate endowments, within the grounds of New-Hales (q). In the town of Masselburgh there were two other chapels, though of less note (r). The lordship and regality of Musselburgh, with the patronage of the church of Inveresk, and of the various chaplainries which were suboi'dinate to it, were granted by James VI. to his chancellor, Lord Thirlestane, the worthy progeni- tor of the Earls of Lauderdale (s). Much of this estate, notwithstanding the profusion of the noted Duke of Lauderdale, and the dangers of forfeiture, came down to Earl John, who died in 1710. From him, in 1709, Anne, the Duchess of Buccleuch and Monmouth, purchased what remained of that great property. There were some smaller rights which were not, perhaps, purchased (t). The church of Inveresk is old and ruinous. It is still remembered that Oliver Crom- well used this ancient fane as a cavalry stable (u) ; but it does not require this additional fact to prove how many men, in that age, made use of religious pre- tences to gain temporal ends. The minister's manse was built in 1681. Such has been the increase of parishioners that an assistant minister has been long found necessary. An episcopal meeting has existed here from the abolition of episcopacy by the Revolution, under the toleration of Queen Anne. In this (p) Stat., xvi., 5. (q) From that chapel the village of Magdalene-Pans on the Forth, and of Magdalene-Bridge on Niddery-burn, derived their names. (>■) Stat., xvi., G. (s) In September 1649, John Earl of Lauderdale was served heir to his father in the lordship and regality of Musselburgh, with the patronage of the church of Inveresk and of its subordinate chapels. Iuquisit. Speciales, xx., 150. This record evinces that James VI. granted to Lord Thirlestane the whole lands, manors, regalities, jurisdictions, advowsons of churches and chapels, with every species of property and right which the monks of Dunfermline had amassed on this pleasant site during so many centuries. Lord Thirlestane, we see, from the Retour, transmitted the whole to his heirs, notwith- standing some unpleasant contests with Queen Anne, who had right of dower over the estates which belonged to the monastery of Dunfermline. (t) In June 1636, Thomas Smith was served heir to his father, a burgess of Musselburgh, in two oxgates of the lands of Inveresk, 2-| acres in the moor of Inveresk, and a tenement in Inveresk, to- gether with the office of hereditary miller of the mill called the shire mill, within the limits of Inveresk. with the mill acre ; also to the 6th part of the four com mill of Musselburgh-schyre, and to the 6th part of the haugh near the said shire mill. Inquisit. Speciales, xv., 69. Such were the mills of the monks with the hereditary miller who had appropriate rights. (m) Stat. Acco.. xvi. 804 An ACCOUNT C h . V. — Edin b urgh sh ire . opulent parish there are also a Burgher meeting since 1770, and a Relief meet- ing since 1783 (x). In 1201, the Magnates Scotics swore fealty to Alexander, the infant son of William the Lion, at Muchselburg, whether in the chapel of Loreito appears not (y). On the 20th of July 1332", died at Musselburgh, the illustrious Randolph, Earl of Murray, the guardian of David II., an event which entailed on Scotland so many miseries. [The Parish Church, erected in 1805, had in 1888 1100 communicants ; stipend, £631.] Newton parish comprehends the old parishes of Newton and Wymet. The name of Newton is obvious, and seems to show that there was, in this neigh- bourhood, some old town. This parish lay on the western side of the Esk, be- low Dalkeith. In the ancient Taxatio its church was rated at only 18 marks. The church of Newton and its pertinents were granted, during the twelfth century, to the monks of Dunfermline, to whom it was confirmed by Bishop Richard and Pope Gregory (z). Till the Reformation exploded such establish- ments, the monks enjoyed the patronage, and the cure was performed by a vicar. The lands of Newton, also, were acquired by those monks, and also in- cluded in their lordship and regality of Musselburgh. Wymet parish lay west- ward of Newton, towards Liberton. In ancient charters the name is uniformly written Wymet. The word is probably Gaelic, though of very doubtful ety- mology. It has been corrupted into Wowmet, Wolmet, and Woolmet. David I. granted this church with all its rights to the monks of Dunfermline, and his grant was confirmed by the diocesan, and by the pope. Thus did they enjoy the parsonage, while the cure was performed by a vicar. This parish was somewhat larger than Newton, and its church was rated in the ancient Taxatio at 20 marks. These two parishes were united at the Reformation, and the lands and churches were included in James VI. 's grant to Lord Thirlstane. The patronage has since been acquired by Wauchope of Edmonston. A new church was built for the united parish in 1742, and a new manse was erected in 1749 (a). [In 1888 the church had 261 communicants; stipend £384.] The parish of Lasswade consisted, anciently, of the old parish of this name, of some part of Melville, and of a considerable share of Pentland parishes. The church and village of Lasswade stand on a fruitful mead, through which murmurs the North-Esk, having the church on its western side, and the village on both its banks. This pleonastic name of Anglo-Saxon origin, signifies what the nature of the thing was, a well-watered pasture of common (x) Stat. Acco., 23-4. (y) Chron. Mail. 181. (z) Chart, Dunferm. ; MS. Monast. Scotise ; Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. Collections. (a) Stat. Acco., xi., 533. The manor of Wymet bounded with that of Lugton on the south-east. Chart. Newbotle, 46. Sect. Vni.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] OF NOETH-BEITAIN. 805 use (6). From the fruitfulness of the district, perhaps, this church was early of oreat value. In the ancient Taxatio it is rated at 90 marks, which exhibit a higher rate than any church in Mid-Lothian except St. Cuthbert's. The church and lands of Lasswade were granted to the bishop of St. Andrews as early as the 12th century ; and it thus became a mensal church of the bishopric. The parsonage belonged to the bishop, and the cure was served by a vicar (c). The church of Lasswade constituted one of the prebends of St. Salvator's College, St. Andrews. In the reign of James III., the church of Lasswade was, by the pope's authority, detached from St. Salvator's church, and was annexed to the collegiate church of Restalrig (d). This annexation was further confirmed by James V. in 1515, completing the collegiate establishment (e). From the epoch of that transfer, the dean of the collegiate church of Restalrig enjoyed the rectory of Lasswade, with all its revenues, while the cure continued to be served by a vicar (f). In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under James V., the rectory of Lasswade was taxed at £20, and the vicarage at £2 13s. 4d. ; which evince the great value of the church at the eve of the Reformation. When the parish of Pentland was suppressed after Reformation, the barony of Roslin, the lands of Pentland, and other districts of that parish, were annexed to Lasswade. These districts form the western division of this parish (g). A new church was built for the parish of Lasswade, thus enlarged and populous in 1793, and a commodi- ous manse for the minister was built in 1789 (7i). [The parish church of Lass- wade has 709 communicants ; stipend £371. The quoad sacra parish church of Roslin has 320 communicants, and that of Rosewell 288 communicants. The Free Churches of Loanhead and Roslin have 278 and 231 members respectively. A U. P. Church has 302 members. There is an Episcopal Church at Roslin. and a Reformed Presbyterian Church at Loanhead.] (b) Laeswe, in the A.-S., signifies pascum, a common. Somner. And see Leswe, a pasture, in Kelham's Domesday, 549. And, hence, the old English Lesse, a pasture ground. The A.-S. Weaht, and the old English Weyde, signify a meadow. Somner and Bailey. (c) In August 1296, Nicolas, the vicar of Leswaid, swore fealty to Edward I., and was, by a precept to the sheriff of Edinburgh, restored to his property. Prynne, iii., 661 ; Bot. Scotiae, 25. (d) The transfer was negotiated by John Frisel, a presbyter of the diocese of St. Andrews, who was appointed the first dean of the college church of Bestalrig. He procured the consent of William Scheves, the archbishop, and obtained, by a journey to Borne, a bull from Innocent VIII., confirming this transfer. The bull is in the MS. Monast. Scotiae. (e) Id. (/) Yet the archbishop of St. Andrews remained in the superiority of the lands of Lasswade in 1630, and perhaps even down to 1689, when the archbishopric was abolished. Eeliq. Divi. Andreae, 120. (g) In 1633, the barony of Melville, which had formed the greatest part of the old parish of Melville, was upon the suppression of Melville parish annexed to Lasswade. Unprinted Act of 1633. (b) Stat. Acco., x., 283. Sir George Clerk of Penycuik is the present patron. 4 5 F 806 Ax ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. The parish of Melville derived its name from the man, rather than the person from the parish. Male, an English baron, came from England into Scotland during the reign of David L (6). Here he settled under Mal- colm IV. and gave his manor the name of Male-ville (i). The founder of this church, who was vicecomes of Edinburgh castle under Malcolm IV., granted it, in the presence of the bishop of St. Andrews, as we have just seen, to the monks of Dunfermline. This grant was confirmed by Gregory IX. in 1234; and it was ratified, in 1251, by Gregory de Male-ville, who enjoyed this manor at the middle of the 13th century (k). This family acquired other lands in Mid-Lothian during the 13th century; and the Male-villes remained in possession of their ancient manors, under Robert L, David II., and Robert II. when the original stock ended in a female heir, Agnes, who gave her posses- sions, with her person, to Sir John Ross of Halkhead. The descendants of this marriage acquired the peerage of Lord Ross from James IV. ; and the barony of Melville remained with William, Lord Ross in 1705 (/). The church of Melville appears to have been of moderate value, and it was rated in the ancient Taxatio at 20 marks (m). It continued with the monks of Dun- fermline till the Reformation; yet by an unusual custom the benefice was enjoyed by a rector, who was presented by the monks, even down to Queen (h) Caledonia, i., 525. («) Galfrid de Male-ville, who lived under David I. and Malcolm IV., and was justiciary under William the Lion, gave to the monks of Dunfermline, in perpetual alms, the church of Male-ville, with its pertinents, and especially the land, ichich he had assigned to this church on its dedication. Chart. Dunfermline ; MS. Monast. Scotiae. This grant was made for the salvation of the souls of David, and Malcolm, junior, and for the souls of the grantor, and his ancestors, and he stipulated that the monks should uphold a perpetual light before the sepulchre of the said kings. This is the only place where I have seen Malcolm IV. called junior, in contradistinction to Malcolm Canmore, his great-grandfather. (k) Id. Gregory de Male-ville, knight, granted to the monks of Newbotle a stone of wax yearly from the rents of his lands of Leth-Bernard. Chart. Newbotle, 215. In 1264, he granted them, what was of more importance, free passage through his lands of Eetrevyn, to and from their lands in Clydesdale, and this grant of passage was confirmed, in 1329, by his grandson John de Male-ville. Ib., 223. The same chartulary contains several other confirmations, which show the successions of this munificent family, down to John de Male-ville, the father of Agnes, who transferred these ancient possessions to Boss of Halkhead. (/) Dalrymp. Col., 428. It was purchased, in the last century, by David Bennie, whose daughter carried it, by marriage, to Henry Dundas, who was created Viscount Melville, in 1802, after executing the highest offices in the state amidst great men. (m) In Bagimonfs Boll, the rectory of Melville, in the deanery of Linlithgow, was taxed at £4. The same rectory is contained in the archbishop's Tax Boll, 1547. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BBITAIN. 807 Mary's days (n). After the Reformation had broken such connections, Lord Ross acquired the patronage of the church of Melville, with the church-lands, tithes, and glebe (o). In 1633, the parish of Melville was suppressed, and the barony of Melville, forming the greater part of it, was united to the parish of Lasswade ; while the barony of Lugton, forming the smaller portion, was annexed to Dalkeith (p). The old parish of Pentland comprehended the manors of Pentland and Fulford, with the northern portion of the Pentland hills, which are drained by the Logan water, that is now better known by the name of Glencorse water. The church stood at the village of Pentland, in the north-eastern part of the parish, where its ruins may still be seen by the antiquarian eye ; and from it, half a mile south-west, stood the mansion, which is now known by the familiar appellation of Pentland Mains (q). The name of Pentland is obscure in its origin. In the 12th century, it was written in charters exactly as it is at present, Pentland. From the 12th to the present century the name is uniformly written, in record, Pentland, but not Pictland or Penthland. The name of Pentland has also obtained a double application in Mid-Lothian. It is not only the name of the village and parish of Pentland, but also of an extensive range of hills that stretch southward to the limits of Peebles (r). It is evident that the Pentland hills borrowed this name from the parish, and not the parish from the hills. In the 14th and 13th centuries, the northern division of that range was called the Moor of Pentland (s). Pent, in old English, signified inclosed, from the (n) In 1546, Magister Archibald Hay, the rector of Melville church, with consent of the abbot and monks, conveyed all his church lands and glebe, " cum decimis garbalibus earundem, que a dictis terris et gleba, nunquam separari solebant." Chart. Dunferm., 23. (o) On the 18th of September 1634, James Lord Ross of Halkhead and Melville was served heir to his father James, in the barony of Melville, with the advowson of the churches. Inquisit. Speciales, xiii., 174. On the same day he was served heir to his mother Jean Hamilton, in the same church, and tithes, with the pasture in the district of West-Melville. Ib., 179. There are other services of other heirs, in the same record, to the same property. (p) On the 31st January 1507, David Crichton of Lugton was served heir to his father, Patrick, in the church lands of Lugton, which belonged to the church of Melville, extending to 3^ acres, and to the tithes within the barony of Lugton. Ib., iii., 261. (q) See the map of Lothian. (r) In Blaeu's map of Lothian and Linlithgow that range is called Penthlant-hill. Scarcely any of the Lothian hills have retained their original British names. (s) Robert I. granted to Sir Henry Saint Clair, knight, all the lands, " in mora de Pentland,'' with the pertinents as they used to be held under his predecessor Alexander III. ; and he granted that the same should be held as a free warren. Regist. Rob. I. ; Rot. c, 67. In the reign of Robert HI., 808 ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. Anglo-Saxon, Pindan, to enclose (t) ; so Pent-land would signify the inclosed land, the indosure upon the moor. Pen-llan in the British, would signify the chief church ; but Pentland church seems to have been always rather incon- siderable than chief ; Pen-llan in the British, would signify also the chief yard, or indosure, or the end of the yard, or indosure. The first derivation, from the old English, is the most natural and obvious. The ecclesia de Pentland, in decanatu de Linlithgow, was rated at only 12 marks in the ancient Taxatio. It appears to have been granted to the monks of Holyrood, and it was confirmed to them by Bishop David, in 1240 (u). Before the demise of Alexander III., it appears to have been detached from this monastery, and was then an independent rectory (x). In the 14th, loth and 16th centuries, the pat- ronage of this church belonged to the Earls of Orkney and Barons of Roslin (y). In 1476, William Saint Clair, Earl of Orkney, settled on Sir Oliver Saint Clair, the eldest son of his second marriage, the barony of Roslin, with the lands of Pentland, the moor oj Pentland, and the patronage of the church of Pentland ; and this settlement was confirmed by James III. In 1491, George, the heir of Sir Oliver, obtained, on his father's resignation, a charter from James IV. of the barony of Pentland, with the advowson of the church (2). In Bagimont's Boll, as it stood under James V., the rectory of Pentland was taxed at £5 6s. 8d., which shows that the church had somewhat increased in its com- parative value, with the other churches in Mid-Lothian (a). Some time after the Reformation the parish of Pentland was suppressed, and the northern part was annexed to Lasswade ; and in 1616, the southern portion, comprehending the barony of Fulford, was united to the new formed parish of St. Catherine's, which was afterward popularly called Glencorse. The ruin of the ancient church may still be seen by antiquarian eyes at the old village of Pentland, the enclosure on the moor. Henry Saint Clair, Earl of Orkney, granted to Sir John Nudrie the lands, forming the east quarter of the moor of Pentland, with the half of Erncraig, in the manor of Pentland, in exchange for the place and yards of King's Cramond. Robert. Index, 148. In 1410, Henry de Saint Clair, the Earl of Orkney, granted to his brother, John, the lands of Sonellishope and Loganhouse, in the moor of Pentland, in Edinburghshire. Ib., 166. Maitl. Edin., 506, also evinces that ridge to have been called the moor of Pentland. (t) Bailey. («) Regist. of St. Andrews, 133. (x) In 1296, Stephen de Kyngorn, parson of the church of Pentland, swore fealty to Edward L, and had a precept to the sheriff of Edinburghshire to restore his property. Rot. Scotiae, 24. (y) When the Earl of Orkney founded the collegiate church of Roslin, in 1446, he granted to it the church-lands of Pentland. {z) Dougl. Baron., 247. (a) The rectory of Pentland appeared in the archbishop's Tax Roll of 1547. Sect. Vffl.-/b Ecclesiastical History.] Of NOBTH-BBITAIN. 809 The parish of Glexcorse was formed, in 1616. from the old parishes of Pent- land and Penicuik, and it comprehends the valley of Glencorse, with some extent of countrv both on the north and south. The northern division was taken from the parish of Pentland, and the southern from the parish of Penicuik. In the vale of Glencorse, upon the northern side of Logan water, there was of old a chapel which was dedicated to St. Catherine, the virgin ; and which was called St. Catherine of the Hopes, in contradistinction to St. Catherine's of the Kaims. in Liberton parish. The chapel of St. Catherine's of the Hopes belonged to the monks of Holyrood, and its ruin may still be seen by those eyes which delight to dwell on what is old (b). This church, and its revenues, and glebe, were annexed, in 1633, to the bishopric of Edin- burgh (c). It was disannexed in 1638, when the parish was called Glencross, from a dislike to saints, at a zealous moment. This glen or vale, was so called, from a remarkable cross, which had been here erected by pious hands, and which also gave a name to CVoss-houses. The prefix in this name, is the British Gbjn, or the Gaelic Glean, signifying a valley. When episcopacy was abolished in 1689. the patronage of the parish fell to the king, who seems to have relinquished it to the proprietor of Fulford, whose name was changed, in the last century, to IVoodhouselee, which is more known to fame by the resi- dence of distinguished men. [The Parish Church, erected in 1665, has 3^1 communicants ; stipend £255.] Penicuik parish comprehends the greatest part of the ancient parish, and the whole of the old parish of Mont-Lothian. The learned minister of this parish informs the inquisitive reader, that the Gaelic name means the Cuckoo's hill (d) : Bein-na-euack, in the Gaelic, and Pen-y-cog, or Pen-y-coc, in the British, do signify the Cuckoo's hill or summit. In the records of the 12th, 13th. and 14th centuries, the name is spelt Penicok (e), which agrees with the British form of the word in that signification. The parish and barony of old were co-extensive ; they comprehended the country which is drained by the upper branches of the Xorth-Esk (f ). The church of Penicuik was dedi- (b) The intelligent reader will remember that Hope, in the southern shires, signified a vale, without a thoroughfare : and St. Catherine's in the Hopes mnst mean St. Catherine's in such valleys, or dingles. (c) Charter of Erection. (d) Stat. Acco., x., 419. (e) In the ancient Taxatio it is recorded as Penicok. There is a village in Cornwall named Penhuke. (/) Robert ITL granted to Laurence Crichton the lands of New-Hall, in the barony of Peny- cok. The estate of New-Hall is on the borders of Mid-Lothian, and forms the south-west extremity of Penicuik parish. On the north the barony of Penicuik comprehended the lands of Newbigging. 810 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. cated to the British St. Kentigern, who was popularly called St. Mungo (g). In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Penicuik was rated at 20 marks. From the 12th century to the Reformation it continued an independent parsonage, the advowson of w r hich belonged to the lord of the manor (/i). In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under James V., the rectory of Penicuik was taxed at £8 (i). In the Scoto- Saxon period, the manor of Penicuik was possessed by a family, who assumed their surname from the place, and were the patrons of the church (/;). This ancient family continued patrons of the church of Penicuik till the 17th century (I). At that unhappy period, the barony and patronage of Penicuik were purchased from the old family by John Clerk, a son of William Clerk, a merchant of Montrose, who had acquired a fortune in France by commerce (m). The church of Penicuik was built in 1771. It is a handsome building, with a portico, supported by four Doric pillars. The portico is surmounted by a stone cross ; and on the front of the portico is cut the word Bethel, in Hebrew characters. The parishioners were not pleased with that mystical finery, saith (•). Sir Walter was created Lord Buccleuch in 1606, and died in 1611, leaving Walter, his son, to inherit (n) In May 1338, William de Creicbton, the rector of the church of Crichton, and heir of William de Creichton, burgess of Berwick, granted to the monks of Newbattle 16 oxgates and eight acres of arable land, in the tenement of New-Cranston. Chart. Newbotle, 227. (o) He was convicted by parliament of being concerned in the treasons of the Duke of Albany. Pari. Rec, 309. (p) lb., 322. (q) lb., 336 (r) MS. Col. of Charters. 820 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. his great estates. He was, in 1C19, elevated to the yet higher title of Earl of Buccleuch, but died in 1633, leaving, with other estates, the barony of Crichton to his son Francis (a). After the Reformation, the church-lands of Crichton and the parsonage-tithes, which belonged of old to the rectory of Crichton, were acquired by Sir Gideon Murray, the last provost of the collegiate church, who obtained a grant, converting those collegiate lands into temporal estates. Sir Gideon was treasurer-depute to James VI., and died in 1621, leaving those estates to his son, Patrick, who was created Lord Elibank in 1643, and died in 1650 (t). The present church is an ancient building, in the form of a cross ; the western end whereof was left unfinished, a sad monument of the wretched times wherein the founder flourished. [In 1888 there were 276 communicants ; stipend, £340.] Borthwick parish was anciently called Locherworth, a singular name, of mixed formation, which continued till the reign of James VI. It appears under its genuine form in the records of the 12th and 13th centuries. In the corrupted pronunciation of the country people, it is vulgarly called Loch- icarret (u). The manor of Locherworth lies upon the Gore water, which is formed of two streams, that are now called the burns of North and South Middleton. The church stands on the bank of the last, a short distance above its junction with the Gore. Below the church, on the west bank of the Gore, at the confluence of the two streams, stands the castle of Borthwick, which was built on the ancient site of Locherworth moat. On the east from this position, at some distance, stood the hamlet of Little-Locherworth, where there is still (s) Francis, Earl of Buccleuch, on the 27th February 1634, was served heir to his father in the baronies of Hailes and Crichton, with the advowsons of the provostry of Crichton, and its prebends, and chaplainries, and other lands, within the lordship of Hailes. Inquisit. Speciales, xii., 184. How long the descendants of Earl Francis retained possession of Crichton cannot now be told. In 1614, Francis, the eldest son of the last Earl of Bothwell, obtained, by another act of King James's folly, a grant of rehabilitation, which was confirmed by the parliament of 1633, and which freed him from the effects of his father's forfeiture. He now claimed the estates of his father, including Liddesdale, Hailes, and Crichton, the property of the Earls of Buccleuch. This claim was submitted, by the contending parties, to the award of Charles I., who pronounced a decree, which was confirmed by the parliament of 1640. Unprinted Act, No. 153. Liddesdale certainly remained with the Earl of Buccleuch ; but Hailes and Crichton were probably given up under this ward. (t) In May 1650, Patrick, Lord Elibank, was served heir to his father Patrick, in the church-lands of the collegiate church of Crichton with the tithes, in the lordship of Crichton. Inquisit. Speciales, xx. 202. Sir John Callender of Crichton now enjoys that lordship. (u) It is curious to observe that the essential part of the name is preserved entire under " Locher- wer," in the ancient Taxatio, the prefix Locher being the real name of the stream. The annex wer is the corruption of weorth. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BEITAIN. 821 a village that bears the old name in the corrupted form of Lochivharret. The name of Locher worth was originally formed by adding the Saxon worth, weorth, signifying a farm-stead, a hamlet, to Locher, the Celtic appellation of the rivulet on which the worth, or village, was formed. In the same manner were composed the names of Pol-worth in the Merse, Jed-worth on the Jed water, and the English Tarn- worth on the Tame. The name of the riveret is derived from the British Llwcher, or Lloucher, the Scottish form whereof is Locher, signifying a stream which forms pools. There are several streams of this name, as they have such a quality both in North and South-Britain ; and it is curious to observe that such streams in Scotland have their names in the Scottish form of Locher (x), while those in Wales have the British name of Lloucher {y). Such, then, is the analogy of the British and Scoto-Irish languages, and such are the traces of the ancient residents on the Gore water (2). Locher worth church was consecrated to St. Kentigern. Robert, the bishop of St. Andrews, about the year 1150, conceded to Bishop Herbert of Glasgow the church of Locherworth in Lothian, with the consent of David I., and Earl Henry, his son, in the presence of bishops, abbots, barons, and other important persons (a). The church of Locherworth was probably transferred with its patronage and pertinents. Yet was the church of Locherworth conveyed by David I. to the monks of Scone, and confirmed by his successors and the pope (b). The monks of Scone seem not, however, to have enjoyed this church till the demise of Alexander III. It was then an independent rectory, and enjoyed by its appropriate parson (c). The church of Locherworth was (x) Such as the Locker water, in Dumfries-shire ; the Locker rivulet, in Renfrewshire ; and another of the same name in Lanarkshire. (y) As the Lloucher, in the shires of Glamorgan and Caermarthen. (z) David I. granted a piece of land to the church of St. Kentigern, at Locherworth, for the accom- modation of the parson. David de Lyn, the lord of the manor, granted to the same church an acre and a perticate, or fourth of land, "juxta aquam currentera sub pomerio ejusdem ecclesiae,'' in exchange for the piece of land which David gave for his messuage, where his house stood. This transaction was confirmed by the diocesan. Chart. Scone, 43. (a) Chart. Glasgow, 57. In the bulls of Alexander III. and Lucius, Locherwart, among other churches, is confirmed to the bishop of Glasgow. In a bull of Urban, 1186, confirming some churches, Locherworth is omitted. Chart. Glasg., 81-91-103-4. (b) Chart. Scone, 21 ; and there is herein a precept of William the Lion respecting the tithes of this parish. Ib., 39. (c) In 1296, Patrick de Gurleye, the parson of Locherworth, swore fealty to Edward L, and received restitution of his rights. Prynne, iii. ; Rot. Scotiae, 25. 4 5 L 822 An ACCOUNT Ch. V. — Edinburghshire. early of some value. In the ancient Taxatio it is rated at 40 marks. In 1449, Peter Crichton, the parson of Locherworth, consented to the dissolution of his rectory, and to the assignment of many of the revenues to the collegiate church of Crichton (d). During the 12th century, the manor of Locherworth belonged to the family of Lyne, who enjoyed it till the reign of Alexander II., when it went with Margaret de Lyne, a co-heiress, to Sir John de Hay (e). The Hays retained possession of the whole manor of Locherworth till the reign of James I. Sir William Hay, having changed his residence from Locher- worth to Yester, sold the greater part of his ancient manor, with the mansion, to Sir William de Borthwick, retaining Little-Locherworth with its pertinents. Sir William now resolved to build a castle on the ancient site of Locherworth (f) He accordingly built a castellated house, which he called Borthwick castle, from the family name which his progenitors had assumed from Borthwick in Selkirkshire (g). The founder of that house was called Lord Borthwick in 1433, and the castle of Borthwick became now the seat of his barony. Yet Locherworth continued to be long used in the corrupted form of Lochivarret, which in formal proceedings was coupled with the adventitious name of Borth- wick (h). The name of Borthwick was now applied to the church and parish till the Reformation. In 1596, James VI. withdrew from the collegiate church of Crichton those prebends with their revenues, and restored them to the parsonage of Borthwick, whence they had been taken. The king's charter for (d) MS. Col. of Charters ; Sir Lewis Stewart's Col., No. 2 ; and the foundation charter in the Reg. of St. Andrews. (e) Under William the Lion, David de Lyne, the son of Robert, granted a peatery in Locherworth to the monks of Newbotle. Chart. Newbot., 23. Robert, the son of David, confirmed that grant ; and Maister Stephen, the parson of Locherworth, was a witness. Ib., 24. (/) In 1430, James I. granted Sir William Borthwick a licence " ad construendum arcem in illo loco, que vulgariter dicitur le mote de Locherwarret." 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CO a co a c3 O » Ph O »Zi 03 tT T3 CO O « 4i U (J) ~ o .i: Sect I. — Its Name.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 831 CHAP. VI. Of Linlithgowshire. § I. Of its Name.'] The appellation of this shire is plainly derived from the name of the county-town, which itself obtained its descriptive title from the singular site of its loch or linn. The location of this lake may properly be called a broad concavity, and thus the lake, the concavity, and the expanse, are the three principal qualities which entered into the ingenious minds of the British people when they imposed this descriptive name on this agreeable site. The fine eminence which runs out into the loch below ; the church and palace that stand upon its ridge ; and the town skirting the eminence on the opposite side ; as they are all modern, do not contribute any quality to the formation of the name (a). We may learn from the chartularies that Lin-lith-cu is the most ancient appellation which, in the language of the British settlers here, in the earliest times of colonization, signifies the concavity of the expansive lin or loch. Linlitcu is the name of this place in David I.'s charter to Holyrood, which is the earliest notice (b). In the same prince's grants to the Abbey of Dunfermline, the name is Linlithcu (c). In his charter to the monks of Cambuskenneth, the town bears the same name of Linlithcu (d). In the ancient Taxatio the name is Lirdythku. We thus perceive the appellation of this burgh and shire spelt with little or no variety throughout the whole extent of the Scoto-Saxon period. During the subsequent century, in the char- ters of the Bruces and Stewarts, the word is variously spelt, according to the hu- mour of the several scribes (e), Lynlithgow, Linlythku, Linlithqu,Linliscoth, Lin- (a) See the site of the palace and loch in Slezer's pi., No. 9 and 10, wherein the town, without any analogy or meaning, is called Limnueh and Limnuchensis. (b) Maitland's Edin., 145. (c) Sir Ja. Dalrymple's Col., 384. (d) Chart. Cambusk., No. 61. (e) See Robertson's Index. Llynn, Lin, Lyn, in the ancient British, signify a loch, a lake, a pond or pool. Richard's "Welch Diet. ; Lluyd's Archaiol. Pryces Archaiol. Lied, or Leth, signifies in the same speech, breadth, width, latitude. Richard's W. Diet. Cau, or Ca, means, in that language, a hollow, a cavity. See Owen's Welsh Dictionary, under the several constituent words, Llyn, Llyth, and Cw. All such etymologies rest upon the historical fact, which cannot be denied, that the British tribes were the earliest settlers here. B32 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Linlithgowshire. lisco, Lithgow, Lithcow, are some of the names of this town and shire, as they have been variously written by different clerks. Legend has, indeed, connected the story of a dog with the origin of this shire-town, which tradition, with heraldic help, has emblazoned as the armorial bearings of the corpora- tion, which the magistrates have been studious to engrave on their common seal {/). Ingenuity has also stepped out to give some descriptive sense to two syllables of the word, without attending to the most significant prefix, which is undoubtedly British, and without adverting to the orthography of the name, that is uniform, from the epoch of record, to the accession of Robert Bruce; and ingenuity, after all these inadvertencies, instructs us that lith signifies, in the Saxon, snug or close, and gow, a vale or hollow ; but Lye does not recognize lith in this sense, though in the Scoto-Saxon lyth, by a slight deviation from the original meaning, does signify sheltered or warm ; and gov: he knows not at all, though gau and gou in the ancient German signify pagus, regio (g). Yet this derivation applies merely to Lyth-gow, the vulgarized form of the name, which, by excluding the loch, or lake, or lyn, leaves the name without any local meaning. Such, then, are the several appellations of the shire-toicn which have been given in succession by the British, the Scots, and the Scoto-Saxons. The popular name of the shire is still more modern. After the name of Lothian had been given, from the nature of the thing, by the Saxon settlers on the fine shore from the Tweed to the Avon ; after the name of Lothian had been restricted to the country between the Lammermuir and the Avon ; after the Lothians, in the subsequent reigns of the Alexanders, came to be subdivided into three divisions, Linlithgowshire was denominated West Lothian (h). We are thus, by Sibbalds investigations, carried back into the regions of fiction ! Boece was, perhaps, the first who said that Lothian of old was called Pxthland (i). Bellenden, his enlarger. adds, " the first part of this isle (because (_/") Stat. Acco., sdv. 548. and see an impression of the seal on the map of the Lothians. A Celtic etymologist might easily, from those traditional circumstances, discover the origin of the name in the Gaelic Lin-liath-cu, the lake of the grey dog. (jg) Wachter in vo. goic. (h) Sir Robert Sibbald, indeed, has dedicated the second chapter of his History of Linlithgowshire to the investigation ■ of the names of this shire, ancient and modern." The result of this whole chapter is. that the monks say it obtained the name of Lothian from Lothus, a king of the Picts ; bat the learned David Buchanan gave it as his deliberate opinion that the whole Lothians mav have derived their name from the water of Leith. which runs through the middle of them. lb. 5. (i) "Laudonia Pithlandia olim appellata." The first edition by Badius, 1526. Sect. VI. — Its Civil History.] Of NOETH-BEIT AIN. 833 " it was inhabited by Brutus and his posterity) was named Britane. The " second and mid part (because it was inhabited by Pichtis), was named " Penthlane (Jc)" ; and Camden, from the intimations of both, was the first who said distinctly that Lauden was of old, from the Picts, called Pictlandia (/). In Innes's chronicles, which are as authentic and curious as they are ancient, Lothian, from the long residence of the Saxons, is more than once called Saxonia, but never Pictland, Penthland, or Pentland (m) ; while the proper country of the Picts was called, from them, Pictavia and Pictinia. But the high grounds which is denominated the Pentland hills, according to Sir Robert Sibbald, ought to be called -Ben-land hills, that is, the mountainous country ; for Ben, in the Gaelic language, signifies a mountain, and the Pentland hills seem the highest in Mid-Lothian (n). Conjecture, however, is but an indif- ferent substitute for fable, and modern misappehension needs not to be adopted in the place of ancient legend. It was probably the cession, in 1020, of the country lying along the Forth, from the Tweed to the Avon, by the Earl of Northumberland to the Scottish king, which gave an ultimate triumph to the name of Lothian over Saxonia, without the idle aids of fictitious fame. § II. Of its Situation and Extent.] Linlithgowshire has the Firth of Forth on the north, Edinburghshire on the east and south-east, Lanarkshire on the south-west, and Stirlingshire on the west. On the east, it is separated from Edinburghshire, first by the Breich water, from its source till it joins the Almond ; and after this junction, the Almond forms the more remarkable boundary throughout its course to the Forth, except at Mid-Calder, where Edinburgh- (k) Bellenden's Boece, 1541, b. ii. He afterwards corrects himself a little, by saying that Forth is an arm of the sea dividing Pentland from Fife. Doctor Jamieson considers this as an undoubted corruption of Pichtland or Petland, in the same manner as the designation of the Pichtland firth has been changed to Pentland ; yet a charter of Eobert II., in October 1372, writes the name of that frith Pentland freth. Eegist. Bob., ii. v. i. This elaboration about egregious fictions brings to one's recollection the erudite work of the learned Wise, to settle the chronology of events that never happened. So the Picts never inhabited Lothian, whatever learning may say or ignorance misconceive, as we might indeed learn from the ancient Chronicles in Innes's Appendix. (I) Laudonia, quae et Lauden, et olim a Pictis Pictlandia dicta. The first edition, 1586, 477. (m) See Saxonia applied to Lothian in Innes, 782-788 ; and proper Scotland, lying northward of the Forth, is frequently called Pictavia from the Picts, and once titled Pictinia, but never Pictland or Pentland. Ib., 768-772-782-809. (n) Maitl. Edin., 506. Maitland was perfectly aware that this district was called the vwor, where the corporation of Edinburgh held markets and levied toll at the house of the moor. Id. 834 Ax ACCOUNT [Ch. VI. — Linlithgowshire. shire intrudes somewhat more than a mile into Linlithgowshire. On the west, this country is separated from Stirlingshire, first by the Linn burn, from its rise till its junction with the Avon, which now forms the separation between them, till it falls into the Forth (n). The length of the east side, from the foot of Almond on the north-east, to the top of Breich water on the south-east, is nearly twenty-one miles. The breadth is twelve miles (o). The superficial contents of the whole appear, from veryminute calculations, to be 12 1 [126] square miles, or 77,440 [8 1,1 13^] statute acres (p). This estimate is somewhat above the computation in the Agricultural View. Xow the population of Linlithgowshire being 17,844 souls in 1801, this enumeration shows that there are somewhat more than 147 persons to every square mile. This shire has been several times surveyed. It was first examined with a scientific eye by Timothy Pont, who has left us, in Blaeu's Atlas Scotia, a map of Lothian and Linlithquo. Adair made a map of Linlithgowshire, which was engraved by Richard Cooper ; and this county was afterward included by Armstrong in his map of the three Lothians. It is to be lamented, perhaps, that whatever may be gained in accuracy by new surveys, is generally lost by excluding all that is curious in local objects. § III. Of its Natural Objects.^ In this shire there are many objects which are worthy of the attention of the inquisitive naturalist. None of the protu- berances of this district rise into lofty eminences ; neither is its surface by any means flat. It is diversified by a number of small hills, which do not rise to any inconvenient elevation. The most remarkable of them forms a range, which runs from Bowden, across the middle of the county, in an oblique direction, from north-west to south-east. Cairn-naple, the most prominent centre of this (n) On Armstrong's map of the Lothians, Linlithgowshire lies between 55° 50' and 56° 1' of north latitude, and between 3° 7' and 3° 38' of longitude west from London. Armstrong places Linlithgow town in 55° 59' north latitude, and 3° 25' longitude west from London. According to Arrowsmith's map. from the Engineer's survey, this shire lies between 55» 49' and 56° 1' north latitude, and between 3° 18' 40' and 3° 51' 30" longitude west of Greenwich. The shire-town stands in 55° 58' 35" north latitude, and 3° 35' 50' west longitude from Greenwich. (o) The greatest extent is on the east side, which measures nearly 21 miles, from the influx of the Almond into the Forth to the south-east extremity of the county on Breich water. The length of the west side is nearly 15 miles. The breadth of the northern end of this shire, along the shore of the Foith. is 12 miles, but the greatest part of this shire is only about 7 miles broad. (p) The superfices of this county on Armstrong's map of the Lothians is only 112 square miles, or 71.680 statute acres ; but on Arrowsmith's map of Scotland, it is 121 square miles, or 77,440 statute acres. Sect, III.— Its Natural Objects.] Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 835 range rises to the height of 1,498 feet above the level of the sea (q), and Cock- lerne, on the western part of this range, rises to the height of 200 feet (r). The Kipps hills, Knock hills, and Drumcross hills, all form conspicuous parts of this range. Hicardton edge and Binny craig may also be deemed a part of this range, and rise to a considerable elevation. The second class of hills, which are more worthy of notice, is variously distributed throughout the north- ern parts of the county along the Forth. Of those, the most conspicuous are Mons hill, Craigie hill, and Dundas hill in Dalmeny parish ; Craigton hill and Binns hill in Abercorn parish ; and Irongarth in Linlithgow parish (s). The middle and western districts of the county are the most hilly ; the east and north are the most plain. The southern divisions of this shire consist mostly of moor, moss, and morass, with few heights of any elevation. In general, the hills in this shire are both useful and ornamental, nearly the whole of them af- fording ample pasturage from a grassy surface, many of them being ornamented with woods, and some of them containing valuable minerals. In Linlithgowshire there are not any waters of great extent. The only lakes are the loch at Linlithgow town, and Lochcoat in Torphichen parish. The lake at Linlithgow occupies about 154 English acres, and contains pike, perch and eels («). Lochcoat, as it is somewhat more than one furlong long and one broad, occupies about twenty-two English acres (x), and it also contains pike, perch and eels (u). Lochcoat empties its superfluous water by a stream from its north-west end, which falls into what is appropriately called the Eel Ark ; and from thence runs underground more than two hundred paces, when it breaks out by a spring, which forms a streamlet that flows into the Avon (z). Of large rivers this county cannot boast ; yet is it well watered by several streams for every domestic purpose, while the Almond on the east, and the Avon on the west, are the only considerable riverets. The Almond is chiefly formed by three small streamlets which rise within the eastern border of Lanarkshire, and being joined by the Breich, the united stream flows, in an easy course, between Linlithgowshire and Edinburghshire, (?) Stat. Acco. iv. 465. (r) lb. xiv. 550. (s) Stat. Accounts ; Agricult. Survey ; Armstrong's map of the Lothians. (<) Binns hill in Abercorn is arable to the summit, the soil being rather richer than the adjacent plain, and every species of grain is cultivated on it with advantage. Stat. Acco. xx. 385. (m) The map of Lothian ; Stat. Acco. xiv. 560. (a:) According to a measurement on the map. (y) Agricult. View, 6 ; Stat. Acco. iv. 466. (*) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 28. 836 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VI. — Linlithgowshire. till it falls into the Forth at Cramond, after a course of four-and-twenty miles, that forms the drain of Edinburgh on the west, and Linlithgow on the east. The Almond receives also Brox burn, with several smaller streams, which drain the eastern districts of this country. The Avon, which more properly belongs to Stirlingshire, wherein it rises, and traversing that shire for six or seven miles, enters Linlithgow at West- Straith. It now separates the two conterminous shires throughout a course of a dozen miles, when it falls into the Forth. The Avon as it flows receives some supplies from the Logie water, which drains much of the western divisions of Linlithgow, and from the Linn burn, that forms the boundary of the two counties throughout four miles before it mixes with the Avon. With other rivulets, Midhope burn and Dolphinston burn drain the northern parts of this shire. The Avon and the Almond are more useful for the driving of mills than beneficial for fish, which have been forced from their haunts by the operations of agriculture and manufacture (a). The Avon has long had the honour of being the western limit of Lothian ; but the Forth, either as an object of ornament, or as a contributer of profit, is of the greatest importance to Linlithgowshire. It washes sixteen miles of the northern shores of this county. This estuary supplies sites for salt-pans, fish for food, and harbours for its traffic. The banks of the Forth are generally high, except towards the west, where a tract of two thousand acres are left dry at every reflux of the tide, nearly opposite to the parish of Borrowstouness (6). Neither does this shire want mineral waters. Near Torphichen, there is a spring which is strongly impregnated with iron, and which was formerly used much as a tonic (c). Upon the estate of Kipps, within Torphichen parish, at the foot of the west bank, there is a vitriolic spring (d). Near Carriberhouse, there is a mineral spring which, as it resembled the Moffat waters, was for- merly much resorted to, however much it is now neglected (e). Near the church of Ecclesmachan there is a mineral spring, which is called the Bullion Well, which also resembles the Moffat waters, and which has lately lost its visitors, (a) Agricult. View, 6 ; Wood's Cramond, 93. (b) Sibbald says this tract is called the Lady's Half. Some Dutchmen formerly offered, in consideration of a long lease, to bank out the tide, and thereby to convert this alluviated tract to the various uses of life ; but their proposals were rejected by a weak-sighted proprietor. Sibbald's Lin- lithgow, 18 ; Stat. Acco., xviii. 443. (c) lb. iv. 466. From that chalybeate spring the seat of IFaMiouse may have derived its name. (d) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 22. ( e ) lb. 17 ; Stat. Acco, xiv. 575. Sect. III.— Its Natural Objects.'] OF NOETH-BRITAIN. 837 while it has retained its virtues {/). In the vicinity of the salt-works, on the west of Borrowstouness, there is a mineral spring, the waters whereof, as they flow, deposit a good deal of yellow ochre, and exhibit a mixture of sulphur and of salts (g). This small county abounds with minerals of the most useful kind. Pit-coal is said to have been dug in the parish of Borrowstouness upwards of five hundred years ago. Coals were well known and generally worked during the reign of Alexander III. They have continued to be raised in great quantities. The average quantity which is yearly dug amounts to 44,000 tons, much whereof are exported at the price of seven shillings and nine pence per ton. The neighbouring country consumes the remainder. The chew coals are carried to London ; the small coals are chiefly consumed by the salt-pans (h). The parish of Carriden abounds with . coals of a finer quality, which yield a higher price. They are sent to London, to Holland, to Germany, and to the Baltic (i). In Dalmeny parish, coal is also found (k). In Ecclesmachan parish, coal appears on every farm ; yet is it not converted to much profit (/). In the parishes of Uphall, Whitburn, Torphichen, and Binnie, there are also abundance of coal (m) ; and we thus see that coals usefully exist in almost every district of Linlithgowshire. Limestone also every where abounds in this county ; is manufactured to great profit ; and is distributed to general advan- tage (n). The whole shire seems to stand on a bed of freestone, which is of the finest quality, and is distributed largely for domestic supply and for foreign use (o). There are several other sorts of stone, such as whinstone, granite, slatestone, and basalts, which are every where found in Linlithgow- shire (p). On Dundas hill there is a basaltic rock 250 yards long, and about 60 feet high, with an almost perpendicular front, the whole consisting of a bluish granite of a very fine texture (q). In Borrowstouness, in Torphichen, (f) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 14 ; Stat. Acco., ii. 367 (^r) lb. 18. (h) Stat. Acco., xviii. 436-7. This colliery employs about two hundred and fifty persons. Sibbald, who published during the reign of Anne, mentions in his Linlithgow, 17, that there were then several well-peopled villages in this vicinity which were maintained by the many coal pits. (t) Sibbald, 19 ; Stat. Acco., i. 98. (k) lb. i. 236. (/) lb. ii. 368. (m) lb. i. 349 ; xvii. 299-304 ; iv. 466 ; xiv. 560 ; Sibbald's Linlithgow ; and Transactions Antiq. Sec. Edin., 147. («) Id. ( 0 ) Id. (p) Id. Sibbald speaks of figured stones which are found in Bathgate hills. Linlithgow, 27 ; and Sibbald's Prodromus, {q) Stat. Acco., i. 237. 4 5 N 838 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VI. — Linlithgowshire. in Bathgate, in Abercorn, and perhaps in other parishes, ironstone is found in great abundance (r). Silver and lead mines have been formerly wrought in Linlithgow parish to some account (s). A vein of silver was discovered in a limestone rock within Bathgate parish, but the produce did not pay the expense of raising the ore (t). In the rivulets within Torphichen parish mundic has been found (u). This shire is rich in marl. Shell marl was dragged from Linlithgow loch in considerable quantities, till the benefits of lime as a manure superseded the use of it (x). In Dalmeny parish, there is a morass of nine acres of shell marl (y). In the parish of Abercorn, shell marl is also found. In Uphall parish, both shell and stone marl exist, though not in great quantities. Here too are found fuller's earth, potter's clay, brick clay, and red chalk (z). Such is the copious catalogue of the useful minerals of Linlithgowshire. Its plants may vie with its minerals in variety, though not in value (a). § IV. Of its Antiquities.] At the Christian epoch, the British tribe of the Gadeni, who were probably the descendants of the original settlers, were the rude inhabitants of the area of Linlithgowshire (b). Of this people, the topo- graphical language is the earliest antiquities. The names of the waters gener- ally, and the appellation of Linlithcu, the shire town, particularly, are British in their origin and descriptive in their applications. The Forth is plainly the British Porth, which changes to Forth, an estuary. The Avon, in the British, means a river ; and of Avon, Anion is a variety, the (m) being sometimes convertible. The Cornie, a rivulet, as well as Aber, which, when prefixed to it, forms the well-known name of Aber-corn, the influx of the Cornie. The Linbuvn is a pleonastic appellation for a rivulet, the British Lin, and the Saxon burn, signifying equally a streamlet. Caerloury, Carriber, Caermenden, in Livingstone parish, the Cannondean of modern maps, Dumanin, the Dalmeny of the present day, are all British in their origins. Bangour is the same as the Bangour of Wales, and is from the same source. Ochiltree, which was formerly Ucheltre, derived its name from the British uchel, high, and tre, a (r) Stat. Acco. xviii. 441 ; iv. 466 ; i. 349 ; xx. 309 ; Transact, Antiq. Soc. Edin., 147. (s) Stat. Acco., xiv. 562. (t) lb., i. 349. (u) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 23. (x) Stat. Acco. xiv. 551. (y) lb. i. 237. (*) Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 147. (a) There is a scientific list of the plants of this country, at the commencement of the 18th century, in Sibbald's Hist, of Linlithgowshire. (b) Caledonia, i. 59. Sect. IV. — Its Antiquities.] Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 839 dwelling. The house of Ochiltree stands on the summit of a hill. Inch-co?-s was formed by prefixing the Scoto-Irish inch to the British cors, a fen. The cam and craig which appear in the names of several places are common both to the British and Gaelic tongues ; as Eglwys and Eccles are equally common to both. The Peel of Linlithgow and the Peel of Livingston derive their appropriate names from the British Pill, which signifies a fort, and was after- wai'd adopted into the Scoto-Saxon. The pi'efix in Caer-iden is merely the British caer, a fort, which was applied allusively by the Gadeni people to the Roman station. To the language of the living, the burial of the dead forms the next class of the earliest antiques. In Torphichen parish, and upon Lochcoat hills, there is a large cairn of stones, which denotes the interment of ancient warriors (c). On a high bank of the Forth, about a mile west of Barnbougle castle, there is a sepulchral cairn, 500 feet in circumference and 24 feet high (d). Near Kirk- liston there is a circular tumulus of great antiquity, which is composed of earth, and is surrounded with large rough stones that are placed at some distance from each other (e). On the south bank of the Almond, and opposite to Livingstonhouse, there are four sepulchral tumuli, which appear to have been formed from excavations of the earth, which still appear around them. The country people uniformly ascribe those ancient works to the Picts (f). To the cairns and barrows may be added stones of memorial. In the wood of Abercorn there is a coarse grey stone, standing on end, which tradition intimates to have been the appropriate site of ancient meetings (g). Near Bathgate there (c) In the adjacent ground, there have been found stone coffins containing human bones. Sibbald's Linlithgow, 26. (d) It is composed of small stones, granite, quartz, ironstone and limestone, -which had been col- lected from the neighbouring grounds. It is called, by the country people, the Earl Cairnie. Stat. Acco., i. 238. (e) lb., x. 68-75. Along the banks of the Almond, stone coffins and human bones have been fre- quently dug up, and evince that here have been the bloody scenes of ancient conflicts. Id. On the way to Queensferry, a little northward of Cramond bridge, there were found, when enlarging the road, some stone cases, which were composed of six square stones, about a foot long and one broad, and which contained ashes. Sibbald's Eom. Antiq., 51. (/) Stat. Acco., xx. 15. In two of these barrows which have been opened, there were found, near the surface, a great number of stone coffins containing the remains of human skeletons, which, on being exposed to the air, crumbled into dust. These coffins were formed of rough flagstones ; were in general not more than five feet long, without any covering. Several otber stone coffins of the same kind and dimensions have been dug up in the same neighbourhood. Id. (g) lb. 339. 840 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Linlithgowshire. is a remarkable standing stone upon a farm, which is named from it Stonerig (h). There are also memorial remains of the Druid worship. In Torphichen parish, near Kipp's house, there is a cromlech, whereon, says tradition, sacrifices were anciently performed (t). Near this cromlech there is a Druid circle of stones, which are set upright, having one or two placed in the centre. On a small eminence in this vicinity there is a single stone of a conical shape, which stands on end (k). To objects of worship may be subjoined places of strength. Near Linlithgow, on Cocklerne hill, the Gadeni had a fort, the vestiges whereof may still be seen ; and at the bottom of this hill there is the appearance of an entrenchment (/). In Torphichen, on Bowden hill, there was a similar fort. The summit of the hill was surrounded by double ramparts and entrench- ments in a circular form, which may still be traced (m). In this parish, on Cairnpaple hill, which rises to the height of 149 feet above the sea-level, there are similar remains of an ancient strength (n). There also appears to have been a fort of the same people on the top of Binn's hill (o). Near Linlithgow, on an eminence above Ochiltree mill, may yet be seen the remains of a similar fortlet [p). Such are the antiquities of the Gadeni people, the earliest inha- bitants of this district. Yet the strengths of the Gadeni did not prevent the invasion of their country by a foreign intruder, who knew how to conquer and to civilize. The epoch of that invasion is 81 a.d., when the Romans, under Agricola, seized the peninsula between the Forth and Clyde, which he secured by a chain of forts, and garrisoned by soldiers of a different lineage ; and thus were the Gadeni, the ancient possessors of the land, subdued to a foreign power. The year 83 may be considered as the epoch of the first arrival in the Forth of a Roman fleet. Agricola, during the same year, passed from this peninsula, near Carri- den, to the opposite shore of the Forth, in quest of the Horestii. The valour of the tribes beyond the estuary did not prevent the disadvantageous conclusion of the war, and the Gadeni country remained within the jurisdiction of the Roman conquerors (q). (h) Armstrong's Map. (t) This cromlech, is of a large size., and is composed of four great whin-stones in their rude state, three whereof are supporters, and the fourth is placed upon them in an inclined position to the south. Sibbald's Linlithgow, 26. (k) Id. ; Gough's Camden, iii. 318 ; Stat. Acco., iv. 470. (I) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 26 ; Stat. Acco., xiv. 567. (m) Sibbald, 26 ; Stat Acco., xiv. 470 ; Armstrong's map. (n) Armstrong's Map. ( 0 ) Id. (p) Stat. Acco., xiv. 470. (q) See Caledonia, i. bk. i. ch. iii. Sect. IV. — Its Antiquities.] Of NORTH- BEITAIN. 841 It was five-and-fifty years afterwards, and during the reign of the Antonines, that a wall was built, under Lollius Urbicus, from the Clyde, near Old Kil- patrick, to the Forth, at Carriden. It entered this shire when it crossed the Avon at Bank-End, whence it proceeded to Inver-Avon, where was placed a station upon the wall (s). From this position the wall proceeded eastward to Kinneil (t). The track of the rampart may be faintly traced to the house of Grange, beyond which it may be seen further eastward, pointing to the high bank of the Forth at Carriden, where probability and remains equally evince that it must have ended (it). This celebrated fence thus traversed this shire the extent of 7,450 yards, from its entrance at the Avon till its end at Carriden (x), the Penuahel of the Picts, the Penueltun of the Saxons (y). The Romans were probably the first makers of roads in this shire. A mili- tary way accompanied the wall of Antonine throughout its whole extent, for the accommodation of the troops who defended it (z). From the Roman station at Cramond, a Roman road proceeded westward along the shore of the Forth to Carriden. Crossing the Almond, it entered Linlithgowshire, and passing thence by Barnbougle hill, it crossed Ecklin moor, where its remains plainly appear, and proceeded forward to the end of the wall (a). The Romans appear to have had several small posts along the shore of the Forth, from Carriden to Cramond, as Gildas and Bede, our oldest antiquaries, clearly intimate (b). One of these (s) Gordon, Horsley, and Roy, agree in stating that no vestages of this station remained. Itin. Sept. 60 ; Brit. Rom., 173 ; Mil. Antiq., 162. Sibbald, however, says " at Inveravon there is yet standing part of a Roman turris speculatorium, and the track of the other buildings may yet be seen." Sibbald's Linlithgow, 17, which those writers seem not to have examined. Yet the minister of Borrowstouness, who surveyed those objects in 1796, says, "the Roman wall is still distinctly visible on the east bank of the Avon. At Inveravon the ruins of a Roman tower still remain. It was built of common free-stone, and stands in a very conspicuous place." Stat. Acco., xviii. 441. (<) Between Inveravon and Kinneil, which are distant 3,400 yards, there are yet some faint traces of the ditch. Roy imagines there may have been a station at Kinneil. Milit. Antiq., 162. («) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 19-20 ; Gordon's Itin., 60 ; Horsley's Rom., 173, Roy's Mil. Antiq., 163; Stat. Acco., xviii. 441 ; and see Gildas, who speaks of Kair-Eden as an ancient city, and Bede, L i., c. xii. The minister of Carriden adds in 1791, "about fifty years ago, in digging stones to build a park dyke, axes, pots, and vases, which were evidently of Roman workmanship, were here found, and sent to the Advocates' Library." Stat. Acco., i. 100 ; and see Sib. Linlithgow, 19 ; and Gordon's Itin., 60-1. (x) Roy's Mil. Antiq., 163. (,/) Bede, c. xii. (z) Roy. (a) Maitland's Hist. Scot., i. 203 ; Roy's Mil. Ant,, 103. 842 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VI. — Linlithgowshire. is supposed to have occupied the site of the old castle of Abercorn (c). At some distance eastward from Abercorn, there are the vestiges of a small Roman camp at a wind-mill which belonged to Dundas of Manor (cl). Thus remains seem to confirm the intimations of those early antiquaries who speak of the Roman towers along the bank of the Forth. There is even some reason to sup- pose that the Romans may have had a villa on the distinguished site of the shire town, where the Gadeni had a hamlet before them (e). Here the Romans remained till their late departure, after a residence of more than three hundred and fifty years within this shire. The descendants of the subdued and civilized Gadeni retained the lands which they occupied, and resumed such a government as pleased themselves. But neither the Picts, who had no right to their lands and no pretension to their government, nor the Scots, who did not then inhabit North -Britain, interrupted their enjoyments. During an early period of their independence the Romanized Britons of this shire were invaded by a new people from the neigh- bouring continent {/). But there is better evidence of the fact than the obscure notices of half-informed writers. The language which those German people left in the names of places evinces sufficiently that they settled in this shire, though perhaps not in great numbers, during the fifth and sixth cen- turies (g). Yet such names are not numerous, nor do they exhibit much (6) " In littore quoque oceani ad meridiem quo naves eorum habebantur, quia et inde barbarorum irruptio timebatur, turres per intervalla ad prospectum maris collocant." Smith's Bede, 50. (c) Sibbald's Linlith., 20 ; Stat. Acco., xx. 399. (cl) Sibbald's Linlith., 20. (e) lb. 15. An urn full of Roman coins was in 1781 turned up by the plough in the burgh moor, close to the town of Linlithgow. Of these three hundred coins, which were about the size of a sixpence, five of the emperors, Vespasian, Domitian, Trajan, Antoninus Pius, Marcus Aurelius, two of Hadrian, and two of the empress Faustina, were presented by Robert Clerk, the provost of Linlithgow, to the Antiquary Society of Edinburgh. Transactions, 60. Yet I cannot concur with Camden and his followers, in considering Linlithgow as the Lindum of Ptolomy, which has been placed at Ardoch on much better principles. Cough's Camden, iii. 305 ; Sibbald's Linlithgow, 14 ; but Pennant states the same point merely as a supposition. Scot. Tour, ii. 231. (/) Nennius, xxxvii. (g) West-Lothian exhibits in its map fewer Saxon words than Mid and East Lothians, and fewer still than Berwickshire. The Saxon words which chiefly appear within Linlithgowshire in the names of places, are Hlemv, or Law, a hill, in twelve names ; Lee, or Leag, a field or pasture, in two names ; Shaw, a wood, in two names ; Holm, a flat field, in one name ; By, a habitation, in one name ; Ham, a dwelling, in one name ; Hope, a hollow or recess, in two names ; Dene, a valley, in three names ; Shiel, a shieling, in three names ; Rig, a ridge, in six or eight names ; Chester, a fortification, in one name. Sect. IV. — Its Antiquities.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 843 Gothicism, in their general cast (h). The Anglo-Saxon names, in the topo- graphy of this shire, are in number to the Scoto-Irish as only one to three. Neither is there in it any appearance which could induce a fair inquirer to suppose that the Northumbrian Danes ever settled in Linlithgowshire (i). The outline of the history of West-Lothian, as it is intimated by Bede, is con- firmed by those topographical notices. Many years elapsed, after the settle- ment of the Angles in Lothian, before a regular government was settled witbin this extensive region. Edwin, who assumed the Northumbrian sceptre in 617 A.D., stretched his jurisdiction from the Humber to the Avon (k). But neither the episcopate of York nor the bishopric of Lindisfarne existed at that epoch. When this bishopric was established in 635 a.d., during the second year of Oswald, the potent Northumbrian king, the episcopate of Aidan was made co-extensive with the kingdom of Oswald, in Lothian. A monastery was established as early perhaps at Abercorn. Here, in 684 a.d., was settled the seat of the bishopric of the Picts, with Trunwin for their bishop. But this establishment did not last long ; and the defeat and death of Egfrid in 685 gave a fatal shock to the Northumbrian kingdom in Lothian. Yet the power of the Northumbrian king, and the jurisdiction of the bishop of Lindisfarne over every part of Lothian continued for ages, however they may have been impaired (/). At a later period, when Kenneth the son of Alpin conducted his Scots from Argyle to the land of the Picts, the Lothians were at that epoch called Saxonia (m), from the continued prevalence of the Saxon people. The Gaelic Scots now gained the ascendency. Saxonia was frequently over- run by Kenneth (n). It was feebly defended by the Northumbrian powers, who were themselves weakened by distraction. This shire became the conten- tious scene, whereon those several people contended for superiority. The Saxons of Northumberland withdrew from the struggle ; and in 1020 the Lothians were resigned, as we have seen, to the Scottish kings for ever. From the scantiness, however, of the Saxon names of places, we may easily (h) None of the names of places in this shire exhibit the Saxon words, Dod, Cleugh, Threap, or Thwait, which appear in the more southern counties. (i) There is no instance of the Fell here, nor is there any other appearances which seem to point to a Danish or Norwegian people. (&) Smith's Bede, App. No. ii., with the map annexed. (I) When Bede finished his history in 732 a.d.. he described Northumberland as extending along the Forth to the Avon. Smith's edition, 650. The Picts lived beyond the Forth. (m) See the Colbertine Chron. No. iii. in Innes's Essay. (h) Id. 84-4 Ah ACCOUNT [Ch. IV. — Linlithgowshire. suppose, that the Saxon settlers never peopled this shire to any great extent. The Gaelic colonists planted it with greater numbers, or were more busy, in giving their own names to the places of their residence (o). Those Gaelic names prevail, and perhaps the Scottish settlements were most numerous in the west and south-westem parts of this shire. The Scottish people, from an analogy in their nature and their tongues, grafted their own speech on British names, as in Inver-Avon, Inch-cors, and so in others. The Scoto-Saxon people followed the same practice, by making pleonastic additions to the pre- vious names of the prior people, as in Barbauch-faii", Briech-? rater, Craig-hills, Diipol-burn, and so in others. Such are the topographical notices which supply the most authentic history of those various people, with the languages which they spoke and the settlements that they made. The inhabitants of this shire, during every period, lived under such a polity as was analogous to the genius of the successive people who predominated, whether British or Roman, Scottish or Scoto-Saxon. Such, then, are the real antiquities of Lin- lithgowshire ! There are some other objects, which some writers consider as the only antiquities which are worthy of their antiquarian attention. In Kirk- liston parish, indeed, is the Cat-stane, which we have formerly seen is merely the battle-stone, and is certainly a memorial stone of some conflict and of some person. By other disquisitors, ruinous religious houses and disparted castles are regarded as notable antiques ; but without chronology, what instruction can they give, or what curiosity can they gratify? (h) (o) The following are the most remarkable Gaelic names in this shire. Achin-he3id, Balncrief, Balnbairdie, Balgreen, Barnbougle, Bearhard, Binns, Binnie. Bagornie, Bedlormie, BarbauchAzvr, Buchans, Briech water, Cairnie, Cairn paple hill, Craig hills. Craigs, Craigsmarie, Craigie, Carlowrie. Carruber. Cult, Dalmeny, Dundas, Duntarvie, Drum, Drumbeg, Druniduff. Dramlyon, Dmmmelzie, Drumtassie, Drumbonie. Drumshags. Drumforth. Dramcross. Dipple, or Dupol-burn, Deichmont, Eckline, Flass. Glendevon, Inch in several names. Kinneil. Kinglas, Kincavel. Kilpunt, Killieauty, Kipps, Logie water. Minifie, Polkemmet, Powflat, Strath. Tannach. Torphichen, Torbane hill, Tar- travan : and from the Gaelic, also, are the names of the two ancient churches of Aid-Cathie, and Strathbroc. (p) We may see. indeed, in Slezer's Theatrum Scotia 1 , 1693, pi. 10. a delineation of the palace of Linlithgow. When John Bay, the botanist, visited Linlithgow in August 1661. he saw the king's palace. " built in the manner of a castle, a very good house as houses go in Scotland." Itinerary, 199. On the other hand. Grose speaks of its magnificence, even after it had become a ruin; and Arthur Johnstone in his Carmen de Limnucho cries out : ,; Xobile Limnuchum est. Pario de Marmore templum Hie nitet. irupensa? non mediocris opus.'' It consisted, says the engineer Slezer, of finer toivers. between which the court, the chapel, and the rest Sect, V.— Its Establishment as a Shire.] Of NOETH-BRITAIN. 845 § V. Of its Establishment as a Shire.~\ The policy of a sheriffdom was pro- bably introduced into West-Lothian as early as the reign of David T. The earliest notice which research has discovered of a sheriff in Linlithgowshire, is during the reign of Malcolm IV. (q) This office continued throughout the long reign of William the Lion, though the successive sheriffs cannot be easily ascertained (r). It seems, however, to be certain, that the sheriffdom remained till the accession of Robert Bruce, though the sheriffs passed away (s), and when the overpowering Edward I. settled the government of Scotland in Sep- tember 1305, he appointed Ive de Adeburgh the sheriff of Linlithgow, Edin- burgh and Haddington (t). With the accession of Robert I. some change seems to have taken place, which supposes that Linlithgow had become a constabulary (u). Linlithgow equally continued a constabulary throughout the reigns of David II., Robert II., and Robert III. (x). Linlithgow remained under this form of a constabulary of the buildings were extended. Grose has a view of the palace of Linlithgow, which was sketched in 1790 ; and Cardonnel has two delineations of this palace, which were taken in 1789. Ou the 1st of February 1746, "the ancient palace of Linlithgow was accidentally burnt to the ground. Soldiers were quartered in it the night before, and it was suspected that they had not been careful enough of their flies." Scots Mag. 48. (q) After mentioning " Baldwin vicecomes meus de Lanarc, and Galfrid vicecomes meus de Castello Puellarum," he speaks of Utredus vicecomes de Lithcqu. This chatter of Malcolm IV. is dated " apud Castellum Puellarum me postquam arma suscepi." Chart. Newbotle, No. 175. Malcolm IV. was made a knight in 1159, if that were the meaning of his taking arms. Chron. Mel. 168 ; Chron. of Holyrood. Utred is also mentioned as the perambulator of the lands of Bathgate in another charter of Malcolm IV. Ib. No. 159. (r) Sir James Dalrymple's Col. 425 ; Sibbald's Hist. Linlithgow, 4. (s) In July and August 1296, the various persons living in West-Lothian who swore fealty to Edward L, are described as being in the sheriffdom of Lin/ithf/oiv. Prynne, iii. On the 2nd of September 1296, Edward I., on the submission of those several persons, issued separate writs to the sheriff of Edinburghshire and to the sheriff of Linlithgow, for restoring their estates. Rym. ii. 723-7. On the 5th of October in the same year, he committed the three several sheriffdoms of Haddington, Edinburgh, and Linlithgow, to the charge of Walter de Huntercomb. Ib. 731. (t) Ryley's Placita, 504. (it) In the Chartulary of Cambuskenneth, 178, there is a precept of Robert I., which was addressed to the sheriff of Edinburgh and the baillie of Linlithgow, directing that the lands of Kettliston should not be obliged thereafter to yield suit and service at the town of Linlithgow. On the 16th of January 1326-7, the same king granted to the monks of Culross the barony of Philipston, lying " in Vtoecomitatu de Edinburgh, et infra constabularium de Linlithgow." MS, Monast. Scotiae. (x) In June 1334. Edward Baliol, the pretender to the Scottish crown, transferred to the English 4 5 0 846 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VI. — Linlithgowshire. throughout the regency of Albany (y). In this subordinate state, it continued, probably, during the reigns of James I. and James II. In the subsequent reign of James III., Linlithgow was undoubtedly a sheriffdom, though the manner and the time of the change are obscure (2). On the 18th of March 1481-2, the sheriffs of Lithgu, of Edinburgh, of Ayr, and of Lanark, sat in parliament among the smaller barons, as we know from the Parliamentary Record. After the violent accession of James IV., Linlithgow continued a distinct shire (a) ; and it continued a separate sheriffdom throughout the reign of James IV. (b). From this epoch till the final abolition of the heritable jurisdic- king the county of Edinburgh, and the constabularies of Haddington and Linlithgow. Eym. iv. 615. In November 1361, a charter of David, the son of Walter, the Lord of Kinnele, declared the barony of Kinnele to be within the sheriffdom of Edinburgh, in the constabulary of Linlithgow. Chart. Glasg. 359. In a charter of confirmation of David II., dated the 6th of April 1362, Kinnele is said to be in the constabulary of Linlithgow. Ib. 363. In the Taxutio of 1369, Linlithgow is also declared to be a constabulary. Pari. Eec. 107. We thus see, then, that throughout the whole reign of David II. Linlithgow was considered as a constabulary. In the two subsequent reigns of Robert II. and Robert III., the constabulary of Linlithgow continued within the sheriffwick of Edinburghshire. Ib. 139-144-8-50-1. (y) In a charter of the regent duke, [1406-1409] the lands of Bathcat are declared to be in the constabulary of Linlithgow and sheriffdom of Edinburgh. Roberts. Index, 164. In another charter of the same regent, the barony of Abercorn is also declared to be within the constabulary of Linlithgow. Ib. 159. (z) On the 12th of January 1467-8, John Stewart of Craigie and William of Crawford, were the persons who were appointed in parliament to take the amount of every man's rent in the Sheriffdom of Lithgu. Par. Rec. 151. A cause was heard in parliament on the 19th of July 1476, at the instance of James. Lord Hamilton, against Sir John Colquhoun and James Shaw, the sheriffs of Linlithgow, for error in serving a writ from chancery in favour of Marion, the widow of the late James, Lord Livingstone, claiming one third of his lands and rents within the sheriffdom of Linlithgow. One of the errors assigned was that the writ was executed without the said shire and within the shire of Edinburgh ; and the Lords found that they had done wrong, and set aside the retour as to the lands of Letlibert and Bromeinch. Ib. 213. In June 1478, there was a similar cause heard in parliament, wherein it equally appeared that Linlithgow was then a sheriffdom. Ib. 220. There are other notices during the reign of James III., which equally evince that, in the contemplation of parliament, Linlithgow was then a sheriffdom. Ib. 227-259. (a) In the arrangements which were made in the parliament of February 1489-90, for collecting the king's rents and dues in every shire, the treasurer, Sir William Knolls, the preceptor of Tor- phichen, was appointed to collect those of Linlitkquoshire. Ib. 364. (b) Chart, Newbottle, 310. In 1503, Patrick Hamilton of Kincavel was sheriff of Linlithgowshire. Balfour's Practiks, 16. On the 14th of July 1525, James H amilton of Kincavel rendered his accounts at Edinburgh. Chart. Cambuskeneth, 177. He was the brother of Patrick Hamilton, who suffered Sect, V.— Its Establishment as a Shire.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 847 tions, Linlithgow continued a sheriffdom. In the progress of a century of weakness and distraction, this office became hereditary. On the 8th of May 1568, Sir Andrew Ker, the sheriff of Linlithgow, had the honour to sign the association, at Hamilton, in defence of Mary Stewart (c). In 1600, James VI. granted the office of sheriff principal of Linlithgowshire to James Hamilton, the eldest son of Claud, Lord Paisley, and to his heirs male (d). James Cochran of Barbachlaw was appointed, in 1622, the sheriff of Linlithgowshire (e). Several persons followed him in the same office during the terrible times which succeeded. Soon after the Restoration, the office was granted here- ditarily to John Hope of Hopetoun, who perished on the 7th of May 1682, in the same shipwreck that had like to have proved fatal to the Duke of York (f). Upon the deprivation of John Hope, George Earl of Linlithgow was appointed sheriff during pleasure (g). On the 20th of June 1682, how- ever, Sir William Hope of Grantoun was appointed sheriff of Linlithgow during the minority of Charles Hope, the heritable sheriff (h), who was born in 1681 ; and Charles Hope, coming of age in 1702, became in his own right the sheriff of Linlithgow. He was created Earl of Hopetoun in 1703 ; he was appointed Lord Lieutenant of Linlithgowshire in 1715; and dying on the 26th of February 1742, aged 61, left his earldom and office to his son for his tenets in 1528. Keith, 8. James Hamilton, the sheriff of Linlithgow, was summoned for heresy, and, upon his non-appearance at Holyroodhouse, on the 26th of August 1534, the bishop of Ross, as commissioner for the archbishop of St. Andrews, pronounced the doom of heresy. Keith, 525. In 1539, he was permitted to i*eturn for a few months to arrange his private affairs, when he revealed to James V. the treason of Sir James Hamilton of Finard. Ib. 11 ; Drummond, 332. The sentence of the bishop of Ross was reversed by the General Assembly of 1563. Keith, 524-5. (c) Keith, 477. (d) Doug. Peer. 2, quotes the charter in the Pub. Archives. In 1601, the king granted him the manor of Abercorn, and in 1606, the same Sir James Hamilton was created Earl of Abercorn, and he died before his father in 1618. This family afterward disposed of the barony of Abercorn, and pro- bably conveyed with it the hereditary sheriffship of Linlithgow. In 1678, Sir Walter Seton sold the barony of Abercorn to John Hope of Hopeton. (e) Nisbet's Heraldry, i. 327. (/) Crawford's Peer. 219. On the 6th of October 1681, at the privy council, the Lords took occasion to call upon the laird of Hopetoun to take the test as sheriff of Linlithgow ; and upon his tergiversation and refusal, the privy council declared that he had lost his right during his life (it being heritable), and that the supplying of the vacancy belonged to the king. Fountainhall, i. 159. (. MS. Monast. Scotiae. (t) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 17. (u) MS. Eegist. of Shipping. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.-] OF NOETH-BEITAIN. 873 its shipping, its population seems not to have been much affected. In the whole shire there were scarcely fifteen hundred more people daring the year 1801, than it contained in 1755. It is, however, consoling to consider that they are more employed, more opulent, and more comfortable in their several situations, whatever may be the vicissitudes of the world. § VIII. Of its Ecclesiastical History. ~\ Little has been transmitted with regard to ecclesiastical notices in this shire. At the epoch of the union of the Picts and Scots in 843, the bishopric of Lindisfarne extended to the Avon, perhaps beyond it ; comprehending within its ample range the whole area of West- Lothian (a). The monastery of Abercorn, within this county, had been settled in a prior age as the venerable seat of the Pictish episcopate, with Trumwin for its bishop (b). The extinction of the Northumbrian monarchy and the fall of its bishopric seem to have left whatever churches existed under the authority of the bishop of St. Andrews, whose authority appears to have been co-extensive with the Scottish territories. At the era of record, we see him exercising his functions over every district of the Lothians (c), and the Decanatus of Linlithgow con- tained not only the churches of this shire, but even several parishes in Edinburgh and Stirling shires (d). At Kirkliston, which was a town of regality, and the seat of its court, the bishop of St. Andrews had a sort of sovereignty under the king's grant ; extending to the whole lands of the bishopric on the south of the Forth. The Earl of Wintoun was long the heritable baillie of this extensive reality. The Earl of Hopetoun, who succeeded him in this office, by purchase, was compensated for the loss of it when heritable jurisdictions were happily abolished (e). When the bishopric of Edinburgh was erected (a) Smith's Bede, 1. iv. c. 26 ; App. ii. ; Anglia Sacra, i, 698. (b) Simeon of Durham, 62—139 ; Hoveden, 418. (c) Smith's Bede, App. xx. (d) Sibbald's Lithgow, 3-4 ; MS. Chart, of Arbroath for a detail of the churches in the deanery of Linlithgow. The archdeaconry of Lothian as we know from the ancient Taxatio, was of old subdivided into three deaneries: 1st, The deanery of Linlithgow; 2d, The deanery of Lothian; and 3d, The deanery of the Merse. The archdeaconry extended at the epoch of that Taxatio, from the Forth at Stirling on the north-west, to the Tweed as high as the influx of the Gala on the south-east, and it comprehended within its ample bounds, the east half of Stirlingshire, the whole of Linlithgowshire, Edinburgh, Haddington, and Berwickshire, and those parts of Eox- burghshire which lay on the northern side of the Tweed. In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under James V., the archdeaconry of Lothian was rated at £20. Currie was the mansio, or seat of the arch- deacon of Lothian. (e) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 12-13 ; List of Claims and Compensations. 874 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VI. — Linlithgowshire. in 1633, the churches of Linlithgowshire were placed under his authority, with a reservation, however, of the archbishop's regality and other temporal rights (f). But his authoiity, after successive struggles, was in 1690 abolished for ever. In the town of Linlithgow there were a monastery of Carmelites, and one of Dominicans. The first was founded by the burgesses in 1290, and consecrated to the Virgin (g). The origin of the Dominican con- vent is more obscure, though the vestiges of their house may still be traced in the eastern division of the town (Ji). In the vicinity of this town there was of old an establishment of the Lazarites (i). This house seems to have fallen into decay ; and was restored under James I., as an hospitum for the entertainment of pilgrims ; which was dedicated to Mary Magdalene, and was governed by a preceptor (k). There were several chaplainries and altarages about this town, which had been founded by pious persons in pious times ; and which were all dilapidated by interested men in a fanatical age (I). There was another con- vent of Carmelites near Queensferry, which was founded in 1130 by the laird of Dundas, and consecrated to the Virgin. The remains of their house may still be seen by antiquarian eyes, and their church, which is almost entire may still be examined by those who delight to trace Gothic architecture (m). In this shire, however, there were not many religious houses, though it contained the seat of the Templars. The knights of St. John had their principal seat at Torphichen. This order came into Scotland during the reigh of David I., (/) See the Charter of Erection in Keith's Bishops, 29. (g) Spottiswoode, 505. The rising ground on the southern side of the town, whereon their convent stood, is still called The Friars Brae ; and an adjacent spring is called The Friars Well. Stat. Acco. xiv. 569. (h) Id. (i) Under Alexander II., John White, the son of John the grandson of Gilbert, gave to Liulph the son of Liulph de Preston, a perticate of land, with a croft and part of a toft which he held " de fratribus de Sancto Lazaro," in Linlithgow town, in burgage. Chart. Newbotle, 205. (k) Keith, 291 ; This hospitium stood on the eastern side of the town, on the base of an eminence that is still called Pilgrim's Hill. One of the ancient fairs of Linlithgow is still named Mary Magdalen's Fair. In 1426, James I. on his queen's recommendation, appointed Robert de Lynton the preceptor of Mary Magdalen's hospital. Spottiswoode, 534. In 1528, James Knolls, canon of Ross, and preceptor of this house, granted with the consent of the archbishop of St. Andrews, the whole lands which belonged to this establishment, to Sir James Hamilton of Finard, and this grant was confirmed by James V. This favourite having plotted against the life of his sovereign, was convicted and executed as we have seen. (I) MS. Rec. of Donations. (m) It stands within Dalmeny parish, though it be close to the burgh of Queensferry. Stat. Acco. i. 238. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 675 who endowed it with many lands, uncommon privileges, and valuable exemp- tions (o), and these were all confirmed and enlarged by successive kings ; and allowed by several popes. In July 1291, Alexander, "prior hospitalis Sancti Johannis Jerusalemitani, in Scotise," swore fealty to Edward I. in the chapel of Edinburgh castle (p). In August 1296, Alexander de Wells, " gardeyn de hospital de Saint John de Jerusalem, en Escose," swore fealty to the same king (q). The gallant Wells was probably succeeded by Randulph de Lindsay, who was preceptor vnder Robert I, (r). Sir Henry Livingston was preceptor under James II. ; and died in 1463 : He was succeeded by Sir Henry Knolls, who governed this order in Scotland during half a cen- tury ; and was commonly called Lord St. John. He was appointed treasurer by James III. in 1468 ; and was removed in 1470. He now joined the rebel- lious faction, who pursued that unfortunate king to his unhappy end. He was restored by the influence of the same faction, in 1488, to whom, there is reason to believe, he lent money for accomplishing their treasonous purpose. Knolls was amply repaid by the new rulers (s). After being much employed by James IV., Knolls fell fighting by his side on Floddon-field. He was suc- ceeded by Sir George Dundas in 1513, who was ^he school-fellow of Hector Boece at Paris; and is praised for his learning. Under James V., Sir George was succeeded as preceptor by Sir Walter Lindsay (t). Soon after his death, he was sncceeded by Sir James Sandilands. In 1560 he joined the reformers ; (o) MS. Monast. Scotise ; Chart. Newbotle, 242 ; and Chart. Aberdon, 21-27-34. (p) Eym., ii. 572. (q) Prynne, 656. This prior was slain in the battle of Falkirk, on the 22nd July 1298. Lord Hailes' An., i. 261. Meantime, Edward I. had issued precepts to almost every sheriff in Scotland, to restore the property of the knights of St. John. Eot. Scotise, 25, They seem to have had no estates in Argyle, Bute, and Orkney. (r) Eoberts Index, 11. (s) He was appointed, in February 1489-90, to collect the king's revenues in Linlithgowshire. Pari. Eec. 364. He also received many grants of much property. Ib., 367. In October 1488, the rights of this order were considered by the parliament. Ib. 340. (t) In February 1533-4, Sir Walter Lindsay, as the head of this order, granted to James Dundas of Craigton, and Elizabeth Hamilton his wife, the lands of Nether-New-Liston. He rose to be Justice-General of Scotland. He was remembered in Lindsay's Testament of Sqwyer M eldrum : " The wise Sir Walter Lindsay they him call, Lord of St. Johne, and knight of Torphichane, By sea and land, a valliant capitane." Sir Walter died in 1538, as we may leam from the inscription on his tomb. Sibbald's Linlithgow, 25; and Monteith's Theatre of Morality. 876 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Linlithgowshire. forseeing that he might thereby obtain the remaining estates of his order as a temporal barony ; and he obtained this desirable end by a grant from Queen Mary in January 1563-4, on paying 10,000 crowns and yielding a rent of 500 marks for ever. Much was dilapidated, yet much remained of the knights estates, when Sir James died as Lord Torphichen in 1618 (u). The hospital of St. John at Torphichen, stood at a little distance from the village on the north-east. There only remain a square tower and the choir of the ancient church, which still has gothic remains sufficient to gratify antiquarian eyes (x). The Reformation by casting down all those establishments, left the religious house and the ecclesiastical districts in this shire, under the regimen of a presbytery consisting of nineteen parishes, whereof Linlithgow is the seat ; and this presbytery, with those of Edinburgh, Dalkeith, Haddington, Dunbar, Peebles, and Biggar, form the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale (>j). Fable and Sibbald trace up the origin of Linlithgow town to King Achaius, who is said to have erected a cross here, which vulgar antiquaries have called King Cay's Cross. On the promontory which projects into the middle of the lake, there appears to have been erected, indeed, a chapel, even before the accession of David I. Of old, every royal castle had its peculiar chapel. The castle and the royal residence gave rise to a village in the royal demesne, which required a church. The present parish of Linlithgow comprehends the ancient parishes of Linlithgow and Binning, which were united after the Reformation ; and upon the height near the royal palace, stands St. Michael's church, whose statue yet remains upon the Steeple, which is very high and is of excellent structure in the judgment of Sibbald (z). David I. granted to the (w) In December 1618, James, Lord Torphichen, was served heir to James, his father, in many lands, with the privilege of a free chapel and chancery, with the advowson of churches. Inquisit. Speciales, vii. 108. (x) Stat, Acco., iv. 469. (?/)|During one-and-twenty years, indeed, the churches of Linlithgowshire were placed under the rule of a superintendent. This presbytery was not formed till some years afterward ; and it contains nine- teen pai'ishes, of which two are in Mid-Lothian, four in Stirlingshire, and the remaining thirteen in Linlithgowshire. The ancient seal of this presbytery has been lately found, with the year 1583 en- graved upon it. This curious and long-lost seal was made of brass, of a size somewhat larger than a crown piece. Bound the edge is this inscription : " Sigillum Presbyterii Linlithcu." And in the midst of some decorations it has these words of instruction : " Verbum autem Dei nostri stabit in seternum.'' Stat. Acco., xiv. 570. (z) Linlithgow, 15. One of the wells in the town bears the name of St. Michael ; and the Sect. VIIL— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 877 prior of St. Andrews the church of Linlithgow, with the chapel, and with their lands both within and without the burgh (a). In the ancient Taxatio, there is the ecclesia de Lynlythku, which was assessed at 120 marks. In Bagimont's Roll, there is the vicaria de Lynlythgu, which is valued at £5 ; the rectory being in the prior of St. Andrews. In the days of David II., there appears to have been, in Linlithgow, a perpetual vicar, who was incidentally the king's chaplain (b). There were several chaplainries erected within St. Michael's church (c). There w r as, in ancient times, a chapel dedicated to St. Ninian at the West Port of Linlithgow. In 1606, there was a general synod of the church held at Linlithgow, and there was a conventus ecclesiasticus at the same town, in July 1608 (d). [The Parish Church has 932 communicants : stipend, £400. A Free Church (1873-4) has 253 members. Two U.P. Churches have 494 members. There are also R.C. and Congregational and Evangelical Union Churches.] Of old Binning parish lay eastward of Linlithgow, having its appropriate church. In the ancient Taxatio, there is the ecclesia de Bynyn, in decanatu de Linlithcu, which was assessed at ten marks. From those intimations we may infer that this district formed, in those times, a distinct parish, which was subsequently annexed to the parish of Linlithgow. The town had formerly two ministers to perform this double duty ; but one of them was dismissed by the magistrates, when it was forgotten that there were two parishes to be served (e). Binning derived its name from the Gaelic Binn, or Bein, a hill, and this appellation was no doubt applied to a neighbouring hillock ; and the arms of Linlithgow exhibit him with this inscription : " Vis Michaelis collocet nos in ccelo.'' Stat. Acco., xiv. 567. James V. erected a throne and twelve stalls in this church for himself and the knights of the Thistle. Ib. 568. (a) Reg. of St. Andrews, and Crawfurd's MS. Collections, 437. In 1477, there was an agree- ment between John, the prior of St. Andrews, and the corporation of Linlithgow, about the building and upholding the quire of the church of Linlithgow. MS. Chart, in the Adv. Library. (b) In 1363, David II. granted to Ade, the perpetual vicar of Lynlithcu. the king's chaplain, £10 Sterling yearly, out of the royal customs of that burgh during the life of the vicar. Regist. David II. lib. 72. In a charter of David the bishop of St. Andrews, 1240 A.D., he reserved the dues of the vicar of Linlithcu, who performed the service, according to the taxation of William his predecessor. Charters in Harl. Library. John Laing the vicar of Linlithgow rose in 1474 to be bishop of Glasgow. George Crichton the vicar of Linlithgow became abbot of Holyrood in 1500, and bishop of Dunkeld in 1522. His attachment to his old vicarage induced him to erect on the chancel a durable roof, which is adorned with the arms of the see of Dunkeld, and with the initials of his name. He died in January 1543-4. (c) MS. Donations ; Wight on Elections, 465. (d) Spottiswoode's Church Hist., 500-5. (e) There are now two seceding churches in Linlithgow ; a Burger and an Antiburger. Stat. Acco., xix. 576. 4 5S 878 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VI. — Lin lithgo ivsh ire. diminutive of Bein is Bein-an, a little hill. In October 1495, the lords auditors in parliament heard the suit of the executor of the parson of Bennin, claiming the tithes and other dues of the church of Bennin (/). In the 12th and 13th century, the manor of Bynyn belonged to the family of Lindsay. Before the year 1195, William de Lindsay granted to the monks of Cambus- kenneth a carucate of land in the manor of Bynyn (g). In the reign of James VI., the barony of Binning was acquired by Sir Thomas Hamilton, who was created Lord Binning and Earl of Haddington (b). After the Reformation, the parish of Binning was annexed to that of Linlithgow. In 1633, the minister of Linlithgow was constituted one of the prebendaries of Edinburgh diocese. In 1635, the advowson of the church of Linlithgow, which had belonged to the priors of St. Andrews, with the other churches and lands of that priory, were conferred on the archbishop of St. Andrews, as a compensation for the loss of that part of his diocese that formed the bishopric of Edinburgh \(i). On the abolition of episcopacy, in 1690, the patronage of the church of Linlithgow, whose British name has been already explained, fell to the king (k). Of the name of the parish of Abercorn, nothing more than probable conjecture can now be stated, saith the learned minister, with respect to its etymology. The church and village of Abercorn are situated upon an angular point, which is sixty or eighty feet above the level of the Firth. About a hundred yards below the church, the Cornie and Midhope burns unite, and after running a hundred yards further, fall into the Forth. The minister thus describes the location of the thing signified, without being able to etymologize the name, which denotes the place ; but neither the history of the various settlers here, nor the dictionaries of their several languages, were at hand. Aber cornie is merely the confluence of the Cornie, in the British speech of the first settlers, near the two confluences, which have been mentioned of the Cornie with the Midhope, and both with the Forth (I). During the middle ages this place was (/) Pari. Eec, 469. (g) Chart. Cambusken., 29. (h) In June 1637, Thomas, Earl of Haddington, and Lord Binning, was served heir to his father in the barony of Binning, with the mills and church-lands of Easter and Wester Binning, with the pertinents. Inquisit. Speciales, xv. 140. (t) Reliq. Divi. Andrese, 181. (k) The church is ancient, and forms a specimen of Gothic architecture. Many of its ornaments were destroyed at the Reformation. The statue of St. Michael escaped ; as on the top of the steeple it could not be reached. For other particulars see the Statistical Account, xiv. (I) Aber is the well-known British term which is so familiar in the topography of Wales and of North-Britain for a confluence of waters, the junction of streams, the fall of a lesser river into a Sect. VUL— -ifc Ecclesiastical History.] Of NOETH-BRITAIN. 879 called Abercurnig, or rather Abercornie, as we may learn from Bede and Ussher (m). In the successive charters of Robert I., David IT., Robert II., and other kings, this district is called the barony of Abercorn and of Abercorne (n). Of the monastery which is mentioned by Bede, there is not a vestige, saith Sibbald. This ancient monastery, the seat of the bishop of the Picts, seems to have been early transferred to the bishopric of Dunkeld. In Bagimont's Roll, among the churches without the bishopric, the vicaria de Abercorn was valued at fifty-three shillings and four-pence. The church-lands of Abercorn, which belonged to the bishops of Dunkeld, were, with the other lands which they held on the south of the Forth, included in their barony of Aberlady. The manor of Abercorn belonged as early as the reign of David I. to Robert Avenel. His descendant, John Avenel, contended for the patronage of the church of Abercorn with the bishop of Dunkeld, who prevailed. During the reio-n of Alexander III., the heiress of Avenel carried the manor to Nicolas de Graham of Dalkeith, whom she married ; and their descendant, Sir John Graham, conveyed it to Sir William More ; and, in the reign Robert III., the manor passed from David More to Archibald Earl of Douglas, and it was for- feited by his descendant, Earl Douglas, in 1455 (o). In 1601. James VI. granted this barony to James Hamilton, the eldest son of Claud, Lord Paisley. In 1603, he acquired a charter from the same king erecting Abercorn and other lands into a free barony, and in 1606 he was created Earl of Abercorn, and died in 1618 (p). This barony afterward passed from this family ; and in 1678 it was sold by Sir William Seton to John Hope, from whom it de- scended to his son Charles, the Earl of Hopetoun, who acquired the patronage of the church after the abolition of episcopacy, in 1690 (q). [The Parish Church has 283 Communicants ; Stipend, £392. A Free Church has 99 members]. The name of the parish of Carriden, which is vulgarly pronounced Carrin, is certainly of Celtic origin, saith the learned minister (r). The site of the ancient greater, or the confluence of a river into the sea. Owen's Diet. : as Camden and Ussher had said before him. The Cornie takes its rise about a mile above its junction, from a marshy piece of ground, and runs through Lord Hopetoun's park ; but it is so narrow and feeble that you can scarcely perceive it to be a burn. Its course is circular or bending, as we may see in the map of the Lothians. Now, Cor-an signifies the bending water. (in) Primordia, 602. (ra) Eobertson's Index. (o) Eobertson's Index, i. ; Chart. Inchcolm ; Eegist. Dav. II., lib., i. 74 ; and Eegist. Eob. EL, Eot. P., 16. ( p ) Dougl. Peer., 2. (q) The church is ancient, and stands at the village of Abercorn. on the angle formed by the union of the Cornie with the Midhope burn. Stat. Acco., xx. 383-395. (r) lb., i. 97. S80 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VL — Linlithgowshire. church formed the eastern extremity of the Roman wall. Caer-Adin or Eden signified, in the British language of Roman times, the fort on the wing, or projection like a wing (s). Carriden house, near which stood the ancient church, stands on the brink of a high and perpendicular bank of the Forth, and at Caereden there are vestiges of a fort, saith Horsley (t). This place was mentioned by Gildas, and it was called Caer-Eden during the middle ages, as we know from Ussher (u). In the ancient Taxatio there is the ecclesia de Karedyn, in decanatu de Linlithgow, which was rated at 25 marks (x). The church of Carriden was bestowed by William de Vetereponte on the monks of Holyrood in the twelfth century. It was confirmed to them by successive bishops of St. Andrews, and particularly by David, the bishop of the same see in 1240 (y). When the bishopric of Edinburgh was erected this church was transferred to it with the other churches which belonged to that monastery, and was disannexed from it when that episcopate was abolished (2). [The Parish Church, erected in 1766, has 270 communicants; stipend £415]. The parish and the name of Borrowstounness [or Bo'ness] are both very modern (a), and were of old known by the name of Kinneil. It has been supposed by some that Kinneil was the Penuahel and Penueltun of Bede, and Nennius, the head or end of the Roman wall. But the fact does not warrant the supposition. Bede's Penuahel is only two miles from Abercorn, and Kinneil is nearly seven miles from the same place. The ancient spelling of this kirk- town was Kynell. In the charters of the 14th century the name is written Keneill and Kineill. There are other places in Scotland of the same name (b). Those names are obviously Gaelic, though the etymon cannot be decisively settled. C'm-aill, in the Gaelic, signifies the head or end of the steep bank. Kineil-house, in this parish, stands on the top of a bank fifty feet above the (s) See Owen's Diet., in vo. Aden. The etymology above may be supported by the ancient form of the name. (<) Brit, Rom. 159. ( u ) Primordia, 602. (x) It is often mentioned as a barony, in the charters of David II., by the name of Carriden and Caredyn. Eobertson's Index. (y) Eeg. of St. Andrews. (z) Keith, 33. After that abolition, the patronage of the church was acquired by the family of Hamilton. (a) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 17. (b) Kinneil is the name of a parish in Forfarshire ; and there is in Perthshire a place named Kinneil, which in a charter of Robert L is written Kinneill. Robert's. Index, 16. Sect, V.— Its Establishment as a Shire.} Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 881 level of the Forth (c). These coincidences seem to establish the real origin of the name of Kinneil. In the ancient Taxatio the church of Kynell is rated at 25 marks. It was granted in the 12th century to the canons of Holyrood, and it was confirmed to them by the successive diocesans, particularly by David, the bishop of St. Andrews, in 1240 (d). It continued with them till the Reforaaation dissolved such connections. The canons enjoyed the revenues of the rectory, and the cure was served by the vicar. This barony was pro- bably forfeited during the succession war. It was granted by Robert I. to "Walter, the son of Gilbert, with the lands of Lethberd and Alcathie (e). Robert III. granted the barony of Kinneil to James Hamilton (f) ; and with the family of Hamilton it still continues. In 1623 this parish and church formed a part of the episcopate of Edinburgh and followed it fate. The site of Borrow- stounness upon a promontory or ness, which projects into the Forth in the vicinity of the ancient burgh of Linlithgow, gave a name to a flourishing port. In 1634, the inhabitants of Borrowstounness built a church for themselves ; and they petitioned the parliament in 1649 to declare it a parish church. This rising town during an active age, was, with a determinate district, erected into a separate parish. In 1669, the Duke of Hamilton obtained an act of parlia- ment for uniting this with the old parish of Kinneil, and declaring the church of Borrowstounness to be the parish kirk of both the parishes as well as the barony of Kinneil (g). Such are the changes which society in its progress is con- stantly making, and which confound the weakness of ignorance and embarrass the researches of learning. [The Parish Church, 900 members ; stipend £400. A Free Church has 259 members, and a U. P. Church 283 members.] The present parish of Dalmeny comprehends the ancient parishes of Dumanie and Aldcathie. Dahnenie is merely a corruption of Dumanie. In charters from the 12th to the 17th century the name is written in the Latin form, Dumanyn, (c) Stat, Acco., xviii. 425. The church of Kinneil in Forfarshire, stands on the end of a height, which forms the bank of the Lunan water, and is about forty feet high. The Kinneil in Perthshire, stands on the bank of the river Dochart, where it joins the Lochy. (d) Reg. of St. Andrews. In 1512, John Stirling granted £10 sterling, yearly, from his lands of Easter-Craikey, to a chaplain for performing divine services at one of the altars of Kinneil church. MS. Donations. (e) Roberts. Index., 11. (f) lb., 139. (g) Unprinted Act, 1669 ; Sibbald, 17 ; Stat. Acc. xviii. 423-437. The ruins of the old church of Kinneil with its burying-ground are still to be seen, a little westward from Kinneil house, which was once dignified by the residence of the Duke of Hamilton, and was ruined by the reformers, as we have seen. The two parishes, with the old and new stipends, were now merged in one parish. In 1672, an act of parliament was made for repairing the kirk of Borrowstounness. For other notices, see the Stat. Acc, xviii. 882 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V. — Linlithgowshire. which changes in the vulgar speech to Dumanie. The Scottish termination of (ie) or (y), was uniformly converted into (in) or (yn) by the Latin scribes of the chancery. Dumanie, in the Gaelic, is said to mean a black heath, of which, probably, a great portion of its higher grounds once consisted (h). In the ancient Taxatio there is the ecclesia de Dumanyn, in decanatu de Linlithcu, which was valued at 50 marks (i). The name is Celtic, but not Gaelic (Jc), and it is British, the original appellation which was imposed by the first settlers a thousand years perhaps before the Scottish people advanced to the Forth. The pristine name was Du-manan, signifying in that descriptive language the black or gloomy places or spots (/). The church of Dumanin was very early granted to the monks of Jedburgh ; and this grant was con- firmed by David, who was the bishop of St. Andrews from 1233 to 1253 (m). In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under James V., there is the vicariade Dumany, which is assessed at £2 13s. 4d. Dalmeny was a parsonage during the 12th century (11). It continued to belong to the monks of Jedburgh till the Refor- mation dissolved the ancient connection. The monks meantime enjoyed the revenues of the rectory, while the cure was served by a vicar (0). Before that epoch there were several altars in the church of Dalmeny, with appropriate revenues ( During that period the parsonage tithes were often by the monks leased to the neighbouring country gentlemen, according to the frequent practice of that penurious age (q). (h) Stat. Acco., i. 227. (i) In a charter of Robert I. it is called the barony of Dummanyn. Robertson's Index ; and in Macpherson's Illustrations the name is Dumanyn. (k) In the Gaelic, Du-Monah signifies the black heath or moor. (/) The change of the name appears not to have taken place till the 17th century. In an act of parliament, 1597, it is written Dumany. In Pont's Map of the Lothians it is Dunmeny. (in) Reg. of St. Andrews, (») There is a charter of Waldeve, the Earl of Dunbar, from 1166 to 1182, to the monks of Dun- fermline, which was witnessed by Helia de Dundas and Robert Avenel, the parson of Dumanie. MS. Monast. Scotiae, 103. During the reign of William or Alexander II., the church of this parish was granted to the monks of Jedworth, and was confirmed by the diocesan. Reg. of St. Andrews. (o) William, the vicar of Dumany, swore fealty to Edward I., in August 1296, and received back his estates in return for his submission. Prynne, iii. 661 ; Rot. Scotise, 25. ( p) There was an altar dedicated in that church to St. Cuthbert, and another to St. Brigid. MS. Roll of Small Benefices, at the Reformation. (q) In May 1471, the lords auditors in parliament, assigned a day to the lairds of Dundas, Barnbougle and Craigie, to prove that Robert, late Lord Boyd, had a sufficient lease from the Sect, VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.} Of NORTH- BRITAIN. 883 The church and hamlet of Aldcathie appeal' to have borrowed their names from the rivulet on which they stood ; Alcathie, in the Gaelic, signifying the rivulet of the breach or defile. The church was bat of little value of old. In the ancient Taxatio it is rated at only four marks. It appears not to have been taxed in Bagimont's Roll, as it seems to have belonged to some religious house. After the Reformation, this parish, which was of small extent, was annexed to Dalmeny ; and the church of Aldcathie was suffered to fall into ruins. The antiquarian eyes of Sibbald saw it in a very ruinous state (?-). The ancient lords of the manor of Aldcathie seem to have forfeited their estate during the succession war, and it was granted by Robert I. to Walter, the son of Gilbert, as we have seen (s). The manor of Dalmeny appears to have belonged to the Moubrays during the 13th century. It was forfeited, early in the succession war by Rodger Moubray, and Robert I. granted the manor to Murdoch Menteith (t). It was, after various transmissions, acquired, during the reign of Charles II. by Archibald Primrose, who was created Viscount Primrose in 1700, and Earl of Rosebery and Lord Dalmeny in 1703. His descendant, the Earl of Rosebery, is now the proprietor of the parish and patron of the church, which is very ancient, and is interesting to those who delight in the study of architectural antiquities (u). [The Parish Church has 337 communicants; stipend, £380]. The parish of Queensferry is co-extensive with the limits of the burgh. It was comprehended in the parish of Dalmeny, as we have seen, till the year 1636, when it was erected into a separate parish (x). There was, indeed, in ancient times, saith Sibbald, a chapel of ease at this place, which had been built by Dundas of Dundas, and which might still be traced from its ruins by antiquarian search (y). The name is modern as well as the district. This place was first distinguished, as we have perceived, in the charters of Mal- abbot of Jedwortk of the tithes of Dumany church. In August 1473, the lords auditors adjudged that the lairds of Oraigie and Dundas should pay to the abbot of Jedburgh 100 marks for the tithes of Dumany during the bygone year. Pari. Rec, 162-180. (r) Hist. Linlithgow, 20. But he mistakingly placed the ancient church in Abercorn parish, which does interpose between them. The parliament of December 1597 passed an act with respect to Dumany kirk. Unprinted Act. (s) Roberts. Index, 11. After various transmissions, it passed, before the reign of Charles II., into the hands of a gentleman named Monteith, and from him it passed to the Hopes ; and the Earl of Hopetoun now claims a portion of the patronage as proprietor of Aldcathie ; but he has not yet made good his claim. Stat. Acco., i. 236. (t) Roberts. Index, 11. (m) Stat. Acco., i. 235-6, for more particular details. (x) Stat. Acco., xvii. 489. (y) Sibbald's Lithgow, 11. 884 An ACCOUNT [C h. VI. — Linl ithgo ivsh ire. colm IV., by the designation of Passagium Reyince, from the frequent use of this ferry by his great-grandmother, Margaret, the celebrated queen of Malcolm Canmore. The opposite landing-place on the Forth was also called Queen's- ferry, North Queensferry, and North Ferry (z), which must always be dis- tinguished from this burgh and parish on the southern side of the Firth. [The Parish Church has 357 communicants'; stipend, £355. A U.P. Church has 328 members]. The ancient name of the parish of Kirkliston was Temple-Liston, says the minister, who adds, that Lioston, in the Gaelic, signifies an enclosure on the side of a river (a). The ancient name of the district was Liston, and it was pro- bably a mere compound of the British Llys, signifying a court, a hall, a manor- place, to which some Saxon settler added tun, the notation of his dwelling. The word kirk was prefixed to Liston during the 16th century, to distinguish the kirk-town from other places within the parish of the same appellation of Liston (6). The manor of Liston was granted, during the 12th century, to the knights of the Tenple, from whom it acquired the name of Temple-Liston. Their successors, the knights of St. John, enjoyed this manor till the Reformation, though not without dilapidations (c). Sir James Sandilands, the chief of the order of St. John, now acquired their whole estates, as a temporal lordship, as we have seen. The church of Liston was early of great value, and in the ancient Taxatio was rated at 70 marks. The church, with the village, the mill, and much of the adjacent lands, called the mains, or demesne, and kirk- lands of Kirkliston, were granted to the bishop of St. Andrews, though at what time is uncertain ; but Liston was formed into the seat of the regal jurisdic- tion, which the bishop and his successors acquired over their estates on the southern side of the Forth (d). Liston was of old a rectory (e). A perpetual (z) Stat. Acco., xvii. 489 ; lb., x. 506 ; Blaeu's Atlas, No. 9-10 ; Map of the Lothians. (a) Stat. Acco., x. 68. (b) Such as, Hall-Liston, Old-Liston, New-Liston, and Iliston, or High-Liston. (c) Dundas of Craigton obtained New-Liston in 1543. whose descendants enjoyed it till the Revolu- tion, when it was earned into the family of Dalryniple by Elizabeth, the daughter of Sir John Dundas, who married the second Viscount of Stair. In 1703 he was created Earl of Stair, and, with other titles, Lord New-Liston. And it was to New-Liston that the field marshal, Earl of Stair, like another Cincinnatus, retired from wars alarms to agricultural pursuits and local improvements, which ended only with his life, in 1747. (d) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 12. The hall wherein the baillie of this jurisdiction held his courts was standing when Sibbald wrote. (e) In July 1296, William de Kinghorn, the rector of Liston, swore fealty to Edward L, and thereupon obtained a return of his property. Prynne, 650-62 ; Rot. Scotise, 24. In 1358 and 1365, W. Houbert, or Hundebit, the rector of Liston, travelled into England, attended by six horsemen. Eym., v. 105-463. In 1406 and 1409, Andrew de Hawick, a canon of Dunkeld, was rector of Liston, secretary to the regent Albany, whose charters he witnessed. Roberts. Index, 160. Sect, VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] Of NOETH-BRITAIN. 885 vicarage appears to have been established for the cure of the church, while the parsonage was enjoyed by the archbishops of St Andrew as a inensal benefice. In 1593, the parliament passed an act for dissolving the parsonage and the vicarage of Kirkliston (/*). During the reign of James VI., Kirkliston, as be- longing to the archbishop of St. Andrews, was attached to the presbytery of Dunfermline, with which it continued till episcopacy was abolished in 1690 (g). At that epoch, the patronage of the church of Kirkliston fell to the king. The church, which is a very ancient building, stands at the kirk-town, upon a rising ground, on the northern bank of the Almond river (h). [The Parish Church has 755 communicants; stipend, £473. A Free Church has 198 members.] Whether the church of Ecclesmachan was dedicated to a saint of that name is uncertain, saith the learned minister (i). Yet, as the name implies, the church was certainly dedicated to St. Machan (k). The church of Ecclesmachan appears to have been of old only of middling value, and in the ancient Taxatio it is rated at 24 marks. It continued a rectory till the Reformation. In Bagi- mont's Roll, as it stood under James V., the rectory of Inchmacham was taxed at £6 13s. 4d. ; and the same rectory appears in the archbishop's Tax Roll of 1547. Sir James Sandilands, the last preceptor of the knights of St. John, claimed the patronage of this parish, though without absolute right, as we see the church taxed in Bagimont's Roll. Whatever there may be in this, the lands of Ecclesmachan, and the patronage of the church, were afterwards acquired by the Hopes, who are now represented by the Earl of Hopetoun, who is proprietor of one half of the parish. [The Parish Church has 1012 communicants ; stipend, £399]. The parish of Uphall was formerly called Strathbroc, which is a Celtic word, signifying the valley of brocks or badgers. The parish consists of a strath or vale, through which runs Brox-burn (/). The old parish church was dedi- (/) Un printed Act. (g) In a Eoll of the Churches, within the diocese of St. Andrews, 1683, Kirkliston is mentioned as being in the presbytery of Dunfermline. Eeliq. Divi Andreae, 59. (/<) The hamlet of Old Liston, and about a fourth of the parish, lie on the south-east of the Almond, in Edinburghshire. (?) Stat. Acco., ii. 307. (Jc) Dempster's Menologia ; Keith, 233. He flourished during the 9th century, and finished his useful career on the 28th of September. Id. Eghmjs, in the British, signifies a church, and Eglais, in the Gaelic, equally signifies the same ; and both those Celtic terms have been corrupted, by popular use, into Eccles. There are several other churches in Scotland dedicated to St. Machan, whence we may infer his popularity, arising from his usefulness. By some strange per- version, the name of this parish was converted into Inchmachan ; and so it is called in Pont's Map of the Lothians. (I) Brox-burn, says Sibbald, Linlithgow, 14, runs through much of the valley of this name before it falls into Almond water. There are other Brox-burns in Scotland. 4 5 T 886 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VI. — Linlithgowshire. cated to St. Nicholas (m). It stood on the northern side of the village of Strathbroc, 700 yards north-east from the mansion-house of Kirk-hill. It seems of old to have been of considerable value, and in the ancient Tascatio, it is rated at 40 marks. The church was a rectory in early times (n). The rectory of Strathbroc was annexed to the provostry of Kirkheugh, and formed one of the prebends of that establishment (o). When this provostry was an- nexed by parliament to the archbishopric, the parsonage of Strathbroc was reserved (p). The patronage of the rectory, after the dissolution of the pro- vostry, appears to have been conferred on the proprietor of the lands. The manor of Strathbroc was granted by David I. to Freskyn the Fleming, as we know from an inspeximus charter of William the Lion (q). Strathbroc was inherited by the descendants of Freskyn till the reign of Alexander III., when Mary the eldest daughter of Freskyn de Moray, carried the manor of Strath- broc to her husband Reginald le Chene of Inverugie. It descended to their son and grandson, and Reginald le Chene, the grandson, dying in 1350, left two daughters, Mariot and Mary, who enjoyed his estates. Strathbroc was inherited by Mariot, who in 1366 settled the half of the barony of Strathbroc on her son by her late husband John de Douglas, and in 1390, she resigned the other half of the same barony to Andrew de Keith, one of her sons by her second husband. After various transmissions, that part of the barony of Strathbroc which comprehends the kirk-town, was acquired by that eminent lawyer, Sir Lewis Stewart, who nourished under Charles L ; and who trans- mitted his estate to his son Sir James, whose daughter Catherine carried it to her husband Henry, Lord Cardross. The great-grandson of this marriage, the Earl of Buchan, now enjoys from them this estate with the patronage of the church. During the 17th century, a new parish church was built a mile higher up the vale, at a place called Uphall, whence the parish obtained its present name (r). There appears to have been a chapel of old at Bangour, in (m) The inscription upon the bell of the old church is, " Campanula Sancti Nicholai de Strath- broke, 1441." This bell, which was removed from its ancient steeple to the new church at Uphall, proves the dedication of the church to St. Nicholas. Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 150-5. (n) In 1296, Ferchard, the parson of the church of Strathbroc, swore fealty to Edward I., and obtained thereupon restitution of his rights. Eot. Scotiae, 24. In Bagimont's Roll, it was taxed at £10. And the same rectory appears in the archbishop's Tax Eoll of 1547. (o) In March 1594-5, the parson of Strathbroc signed a deed, as one of the prebendaries of Kirk- heugh, with the provost. Reliq. Divi Andreae, 217. (p) Unprinted Act, 1621. (q) Freskyn afterward acquired, from David I., various lands in Moray, and he thus became the un- questionable progenitor of the Morays and Sutherlands, who both trace their pedigrees to the same source. (? ) In 1524, Archdeacon Dingwall granted to the church of Strathbroc a mansion and yard, called the principal mansion of Strathbroc-Wester, with four acres of land, and six acres, called Seiterland, Sect. VIIL— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BEIT AIN. 887 this parish. This estate was long the inheritance of the Hamiltons. and it was dignified, at length, by the birth of the elegant poet Hamilton of Bangour. [The Parish Church has 535 communicants ; stipend, £453. A Chapel of Ease at Broxburn has 235 commnnicants. A Free Church at Broxburn has 435 mem- bers, and a U.P. Church at the same place has 262 members. There is also a B.C. Church at Broxburn.] The name of the parish of Torphichen is said to signify ten hills. A range of hills, having so many particular tops, lie in the vicinity of the village of Tor- phichen (s) ; but there is a mount having a fine prospect, called Torphichen hill, in the southern parts of Edinburghshire (t). The old form of the name is Torfechin and Torfichen. The Celtic word seems to be most naturally derived from the Gaelic Torfeachan, signifying the mount having a good view, or prospect hill. The village and church stand on an elevated terrace, which commands a beautiful view ; and they are at the base of several small tors or hills, which command extensive prospects of the Forth, and of the countries on either side of that firth. Torphichen was the great seat of the knights of St. J ohn in Scotland ; and it furnished their last preceptor, Sir James Sandi- lands, with the title of Lord Torphichen, to whom it was granted as a temporal lordship in 1563-4. The chapel appeareth to be old, says Sibbald (u) ; and the church of Torphichen does not exist in the ancient Taxatio, being exempted from assessments, as the peculiar of those knights of Jerusalem, whose last preceptor has long enjoyed their estates, and is now the patron of the church. [The Parish Church, erected in 1756, has 241 communicants; stipend, £204. A Free Church has 157 members, and a Free Church mission at Black- ridge has 71 members]. The parish of Bathgate had once the honour of being a sheriffdom, and has been long dignified by the location of many gentlemen's seats within it. In the charters of the 12th, 13th, and 14 th centuries, the name of this place is written Bathket, Bathet, Bathkat, and Bathcat. The name is obviously Celtic, but the etymology is difficult. Bad-cad in the Gaelic, would signify the high bush or clump of wood ; Bad-caid would mean the bush or clump on the summit ; and Bad-coed, Bad-cat, would convey the idea of a bush of wood. It seems impossible to fix the meaning of the name which has been corrupted, on any satisfactory principle. The church of old appears to have been of middling value. In the ancient Taxatio of the churches in decanatu de Linlithcu, there is the ecclesia de Bathket, which was assessed at 30 marks (x). Malcolm IV. granted to the monks of Holyrood the church of Batket, with the land, which was set out by Galfrid de Malleville and Uchtred, the sheriff of and also an acre, called the Tenand-land, lying in the barony of Strathbroc. This donation was con- firmed by a charter of James V. MS. Donations. (s) Stat. Acco., iv. 465. (t) Map of the Lothians. («) Linlithgow, 24. (x) Bath is a very frequent prefix to the names of places in Scotland. 888 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VI. — Linlithgowshire. Linlithcu (y). Robert, the diocesan, who died about 1159, confirmed to those monks the church of Bathgate, with a carucate of land, and the tithes and pertinents (z). During Robert I.'s reign, the church of Bathgate and its tithes lands, and pertinents, were transferred by the abbot and monks of Holyrood, to the abbot and monks of Newbotle, in satisfaction of a long arrear of rent which was then due, for some salt-works and estates in the Carse of Callander ; and this interested transfer of difficult times was confirmed by the diocesan bishop Landels in 1327 (a). The monks of Newbotle now enjoyed the church of Bath- gate till the Reformation, the cure being served by a vicar. Since the Refor- mation, the patronage of the church has been enjoyed generally by the pro- prietor of the estate. The church was built in 1739, within the ancient town of Bathgate, and here also have the seceding Burghers a meeting-house, though they are not veiy numerous. [The Parish Church, rebuilt in 1882, has 954 communicants ; stipend, £346. A quoad sacra church at Armadale has 332 com- municants. There are also two Free Churches, (590 members), U.P. (176 members), Evangelical Union, Wesleyan Methodist, and R.C. churches]. As to the name of the parish of Livingston, the learned minister says he will not offer a conjecture (b). The name was originally Levings-tun, the ton or dwelling-place of Leving, who lived here as early perhaps as the age of Alexander I. In a charter of Robert the bishop of St. Andrews, confirming David I.'s grant to the monks of Holyrood, Thurstanus filius Levingi is a wit- ness (c). The peel of Livingston still remains the undoubted memorial of a baronial strength ; having high ramparts, with deep ditches which are full of water (d). The church is a little way to the west of it ; and half a mile further west is the town of Livingston (e). Livingston parish was formerly of great extent. It comprehended the present parishes of Livingston and Whitburn ; the last, containing nearly two-thirds of the ancient parish, was disjoined and made a separate parish in 1730. The church of Livingston appears to have been of old only of middling value, and in the ancient Taxatio it was rated at 25 marks (/). The monks of Holyrood enjoyed the church of Livingston till the Reformation dissolved such connections ; and the cure was served by a vicar (g). After the Reformation, the patronage of the church appears to have (y) Chart. Newbotle, 159. The land thus laid off was merely a carucate, or plough of land. (2) lb., 160. (a) lb., 179. (b) Stat. Acco., xx. 12. (c) Sir J. Dalrymple's Col., 421. Sir James says, the original charter Thurstanii filii Levingi is yet to be seen, whereby he granted to the monks of Holyrood " ecclesiam de Levingestune '' [Living- stun]. And he adds that Thurstan and Living were the predecessors of the Livingstons, and gave their name to the land, and to the surname of Livingston of that ilk. Ib., 421. Dougl. Peerage, 409-10. (d) Sibbald's Lithgow, 21. (e) Id. (/) In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under James V., the vicarage of Livingston was taxed £2 13s 4d. (.'/) In 1488, Alexander Curror, the vicar of Livingston, granted a perpetual annuity of 20 marks Scots to the Trinity altar in St. Andrews church, near the castle of Edinburgh. Maitl. Edin., 206. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 889 been transferred to Dundas of Dundas, who obtained a parliamentary ratifica- tion of it in 1612 (b). The parish church and manse, which stand on a dry mount in a curve of the river Almond, are modern and convenient (i). [The Church was repaired in 1837, and has 264 communicants ; stipend, £232. A Free Church has 87 members.] Whitburn, as we have seen, was of old a large portion of the parish of Living- ston, till it was separated in 1730, and formed into a new parish, the most mo- dern of any in Linlithgowshire (&). The learned minister supposes that it took its name of Whitburn, from the settlement here of many families of the name of White (I) ; yet was it obviously named Whiteburn, in contradistinction to Black- burn, which, on the eastward, runs at no great distance. For the purpose of erecting the church of Whitburn, money was raised by subscription throughout Scotland. So much more was thus raised, as to buy land, which rents for £100 sterling yearly, and which forms much of the stipend. To this was added £28 6s. 8d. from the teinds of the parish, by a decree of the commissioners for plantation of kirks. A contest immediately ensued for the patronage of the church thus newly erected, the patron of the old claiming the patronage of the new, and on an appeal, the House of Lords decided in favour of the old patron of Livingston parish. This decision, however consonant to law, gave such disgust to the parishioners of Whitburn, that two-thirds of them seceded from the Established Church ; and there are now in Whitburn two seced- ing congregations ; the one of Burghers, and the other of Antiburghers (m). [Established Churches at Whitburn and Fauldhouse, have 710 communicants, a Free Church has 128, and a U.P. Church 415 members.] To the foregoing notices of ecclesiastical history, there is here subjoined, as an useful supplement, a Tabular State of the several parishes in Linlithgow- shire ; yet it may be proper to remember that a fourth part of Kirkliston parish, lying on the eastern side of Almond river, is in Edinburghshire. The stipends of all the parishes in this shire, except Torphichen, Queensferry, and Whitburn, have been lately augmented. In 1755, Linlithgow had two ministers, whose stipends were, for the first, £84 7s. lid. ; and for the second, £55 lis. Id. In forming the estimate of all those stipends, the value of the glebes are included, but not the value of the manses ; and the victual, which forms so much of the stipends, was valued, according to an average of the fier prices of the middling sorts of victual in this shire, during the seven years ending with 1795 (n). (/<) Unprinted Act. (i) Stat. Acco.,. xx. 13. (k) lb... xvii. 302. (/) Stat, Acco., xvii. 298, (in) lb., xviii. 302-3. (n) The Linlithgow boll of wheat contains 4 bushels 10 pints, and 6.7 cubic inches ; of barley and oats, 6 bushels 3 pints, 25.5 cubic inches, English standard measure ; and the boll of meal is 8 stone, or 128 pounds Scots Troy. The wheat was valued at 25?., the barley at 18s. 0£d., the oats at 14s. 2d., and the oatmeal at 16s. 2d., all per boll. 890 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VI. — Linlithgowshire. The Tabular State. Churches. ^ Extent Inhabitants. . . ~ Stipends. Valuatioa Parishes. in 4J 3 Pm d to Patrons. Acres. 1755. 1801. 1881. g £ 5 « a ^ 1755. 1798. 1887-88. £ 8. D. £ s. D. £ S. D. Linlithgow, - 11,603 3,296 3,596 5,619 1 1 2 1 1 \ 55 17 11 SI 193 10 5 The King. 34,081 1 2 Dalmeny, - 6,797 1,103 765 1,643 1 73 4 2 149 12 7 The Earl of Rosebery. 19,491 9 6 Kirkliston, - 7,716| 1,070 1,206 2,580 1 1 88 10 0 162 4 3 The King. 21,441 7 1 Carriden, - 3, 309| 1,164 1,504 1,985 1 75 15 0 160 6 8 The Duke of Hamilton. 9,402 2 10 Bathgate, • 10,8874 1,594 2,513 9,450 2 2 1 1 1 1 73 8 11 141 4 1 The Earl of Hopetoun. 44,968 9 10 Queensferry, • 451 454 1,966 1 1 60 lf- 3 108 3 5 The Magistrates. Borrowstounness, - 4.277J 2,668 2,790 6,080 1 1 1 85 lS 4 161 1 10 The Duke of Hamilton. 27,376 10 2 Abercorn, 5,265 1,037 814 865 1 1 74 17 11 178 6 8 The Earl of Hopetoun. 11,887 0 1 Whitbnrn, ■ 9,807| 1,121 1,537 6,326 2 1 1 49 14 7 133 6 8 Thomas Gordon. 23,322 14 9 Torphichern, - ■ 9.956J 1,295 1,028 1,526 1 2 64 11 9 93 13 3 Lord Torphichen. 10,619 C 1 Livingston, 5,391 598 551 1,484 1 1 68 17 9 143 18 0 Cuningham of Livingston. 11,989 10 6 UphaU, - ■ 4,561£ 690 786 4,812 2 1 1 1 67 19 7 128 12 8 The Earl of Buchan. 49,772 5 3 Ecclesmachan, ■ 2,647^ 351 303 278 1 64 11 1 123 1 4 The Earl of Hopetoun. 6,068 16 2 Totals, - 16 11 7 3 2 1 985 15 4 1,877 1 10 271,183 17 5 Sect I. — Its Name.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN 891 CHAP. VII. Of Peebles-shire. § i. Of its Name.'] The appellation of this county is obviously derived from the Celtic name of the shire-town. In ancient records, the old word is written Peblis or Pebles (a). The first British settlers here no doubt imposed this name, which, in the British Pebyll, is the same in sense as the Saxon Shiels, signifying moveable habitations, being merely the plural of Pabell ; and Pebyllias means a place where tents or movable habitations are placed (6). It is, however, probable that the (s) final in this name is the English plural termination, which has been added by colloquial corrup- tion to the British word Pebyll (c). The learned minister of Peebles however, derives the obscure name of his parish from a more obvious origin, the pebbles under his feet, though we are not told, indeed, that pebbles are very plentiful in this ancient town of the British tribes. We thus sometimes see antiquaries " collecting toys, as children gath'ring pebbles on the shore." When the British Gadeni pitched their tents on this commodious site, the Eng- lish speech had never been heard on " smooth -mean d' ring Tweed." The ancient (a) We first see it in the Inquisitio of Earl David, 1116 a.d., which found that there had belonged to the episcopate of Glasgow, " in le Peblis," one carucate of land and a church. (b) Davis, Owen, and Lhuyd's Arch., 287. In the sister dialect of the Irish, Pabal has the same signification as the British Pabell. O'Brien and Shaw. (c) Several other places, both in North-Britain and in Wales, derive their names from the same source. Peebles is the name of an estate, a mansion-house, and a hamlet, in St. Vigean's parish, Forfarshire ; a hamlet in Kirkmabreck, in Kirkcudbright, is named Pebble or Pebbil ; and a hamlet in Fortingal parish, Perthshire, is named, according to the Irish idiom, Pabal. Such are the similar names in North-Britain ! In Wales the place near Bala, on Lynn Tegid, where the British bard, Lywarch hen, long lamented his misfortunes, is called Pabell Lywarch hen, signifying the tent, or dwelling of Lywarch, the aged. Another place, in Wales, is called Cil-y-Pebill, the recess or retreat, where stood the tents or movable dwellings. Owen. The reader, to feel the full force of this investigation, must constantly recollect that the site of Peebles was originally settled by British tribes, who imposed this descriptive name in their significant language ; for without this recollection such disquisitions were made in vain. 892 An ACCOUNT. [Ch. VI. — Peebles-shire. town or shielings stood upon the northern side of the Tweed, and on the western side of Peehles water, which here " pours its sweetness in its genial bosom." A new town afterward arose on the opposite side of the Peebles water, northward from the Tweed to some distance. The two towns are connected by two bridges over Peebles water ; and at the south-west corner of the new town, there is an old but well built bridge of five arches over the Tweed (d). The colloquial name of this shire is Tweeddale; signifying in the Saxon tongue and Norman idiom, the dale or valley of the Tweed. This river, which is the fourth of Scotland in size, rises from a spring fifteen hundred feet above the sea level, on Tweed-moor, on the western verge of this shire (e), and meandring through its centre while it receives many tributary streams, the Tweed drains the ridgy country, " where stray the muses in what lawn and grove." The earliest recorded notice of this celebrated river, the favourite of the lyric muse, is the charter of Selkirk by Earl David, before he became king by the Latin name of Tweda, the British Tued. The most ancient men- tion of Tweeddale is in the charter of Kelso, 1126, by the name of Tueddal, before the district had yet been placed under the useful regimen of a sheriff- wick (/). It was probably the Anglo-Norman people, who came in here soon after the Norman invasion of England, who imposed upon the country which was washed by the Upper Tweed, the appropriate name of Tweddal, which was soon softened to Tweeddale. § ii. Of its Situation and Extent.~\ The county of Peebles has Dumfries- shire on the south ; Lanai-kshire on the west ; Edinburghshire on the north and north-east ; and Selkirkshire on the east (g). Peebles-shire lies between (d) Stat. Acco. xii. i. ; and the plan of Peebles on Armstrong's Map of this shire. (e) "The Twede aforesaid, saith Camden, runneth through the midst of a dale, taking name of it; a very goodly river, which springing more inwardly westward, runneth by Drummellier castle to Peblis, a market town." (/) David I. granted to the monks of Kelso the tenth of the cheeses, yearly made, in Tueddal. Chart. Kelso, No. 1. This is a high authority for the popular pronunciation of Tuaddal, for the name of the marquisate. Before the year 1159, the most ancient name of Tueddal had been softened to Twede-dale, as we may learn from a charter of Malcolm IV., in the Diplomata Scotiae. In several Bulls, during the reign of William the Lion, the name is softened still more into Twedale, as we may see in the Chartulary of Glasgow, In the charters of more recent times, Twe.ddale is called " Valle de Twede." (g) Armstrong, the surveyor of this shire, has mistaken in his map the boundary between Peebles and Selkirkshire, on the northern side of the Tweed. The real boundary between these shires, on this quarter, is Gaithorpe bum, from its influx into the Tweed along its whole course to Windlestraw law. Sect. II.— Its Situation and Extent.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 893 55° 25' and 55° 50' north latitude, according to Ainslie and Armstrong, and it is placed in Armstrong's map of this shire, 0° 14/ east to 0° 22' west of Edinburgh, or from 2° 58' to 3° 34' west from Greenwich (h). By an average mensuration of Armstrong's map of Peebles-shire, and of Ainslie's map of Scotland, the full length of this county extends from north to south about twenty-eight [29] miles, the mean length being twenty-seven miles. The north end of it is twelve miles broad, the middle is eighteen miles, and the southern end is rather more than ten miles ; so that the mean breadth is thirteen one- half miles, and of consequence, the superficies of this shire ought to be 364 square miles, and its contents 232,960 English acres. But from a minute calculation made, by dividing the surface on Arrowsmith's map of Scotland into several parts, and by ascertaining the contents of each, it appears that the superficies of the whole shire is 338 [354] square miles, containing 216,320 statute acres (i). The number of people in Peebles-shire being 8,735, according to the enumeration of the year 1801, gives 25.84 for each square mile of its real population, and the recent returns evince, that 5.^ persons to each house is the average rate of the inhabitation, within this pastoral shire. § in. Of its Natural Objects.'] The outline of the surface of Peebles-shire, consisting of alternations of hill and dale, is the most striking of its natural features. From the dale of the Tweed, which forms the centre of the county, the surface rises on both its sides to the south and to the north. The lofty hills towards the extremities of the shire, mount to the greatest heights, and the mountains which separate Tweeddale from Annandale, are the highest of the hills in Southern Scotland (Jc). On the boundary with Selkirkshire, Blackhouse (h) According to Armstrong, the meridian of Edinburgh runs through the shire town of Peebles, which, therefore, is 3° 6' west from London. This metropolis of Tweeddale is situated in 55' 38' 40" north latitude. Armstrong's Map. (») From those calculations upon the Engineer's Survey, the general result, both of the superficies and contents, is somewhat different from those of Armstrong's Map, the Agricultural View, and the Agricultural Survey. (£) Hartfell rises 2918 [2651] feet above the level of the German sea. The conical top of White- comb edge is supposed to be somewhat higher, though its cloud-capped summit can seldom be seen through its surrounding mists. Broad Law raises its flat and circular top 2850 [2754] feet above the sea level. Of Broad Law, Armstrong remarks, that its summit would admit a horse course of two miles circuit without the smallest inequality of surface. Companion to the Map of Peebles-shire, 107-10-11. Near the utmost acclivity of Broad Law, there is an excellent spring, which is known, popularly, as Geddes's Well. Dollar Law rises 2,840 [2680] feet above the sea level. Id. Stat. Acco., iii. 388. Scrape hill also rises nearly to the same height. 4 5 U 894 An ACCOUNT [Ch. Nil.— Peebles-shire. heights rise 2,360 feet above the level of the German Ocean. About two miles northward from those eminences, Scawd law mounts to 2,120 [2,249] feet above the same level (k). On the south-east of Peebles-shire, where it marches with Selkirkshire, the wide-spreading mountain of Minchmoor rises 2,285 [1,856] feet above the sea (I). On the north-east of Peebles-shire, the huge mountain called Windlestraw law rears its mossy summit 2,295 [2161] feet above the same level (m), and Dundroich rises to the height of 2,100 feet above the sea (it). On the north and north-west of Peebles-shire, the hills are not so high as those upon the south and south-west. Cairn hill, at the springs of Lyne water, rises 1,800 feet above the sea level (o). On the west, the Pykitstane rises 2,100 feet above the same level (p). Broughton heights rear their head 1,483 feet above the level of the sea. From these mountains, south-south-west, Candon hill mounts to an elevation of 1,400 feet above the level of the Tweed, and upwards of 2,200 feet above the level of the sea, and this is the highest moun- tain on the western side of Peebles-shire (q). This country, saith Doctor Penne- cuick, is almost everywhere swelled with hills, which, for the most part are green, grassy, and pleasant, except a ridge betwixt Minchmoor and Hender- land, which is black, craggy, and of a melancholy aspect, with deep and horrid precipices (r). This range of hills lie along the south-eastern border of (k) Armstrong's Companion, 92 ; Stat. Acco., xii. 370 ; and eastward from those, Gumscleugh, and several other hills in Traquair parish, are still higher. Id. (I) Companion to the Map, 100. On the north side of Minchmoor, near the road from Peebles to Selkirk, there is a fine spring, called, from whatever cause, the Cheese Well. In travelling from Tweeddale to Selkirk, from the summit of Minchmoor, are first seen Newark castle ; the water of Yarrow, and the forest lying on either side of it. (ni) This mountain has a deep mossy surface to the very summit. Companion, 48. (n) Dun-droich, in the Gaelic, signifies the Druid's-hill. This name intimates that the Druids must have left here some memorial of their worship. In fact, there is, on the summit of this huge hill, which is also called Brown Dod, a large collection of stones that now marks the conjunction of three contiguous estates. In this vicinity, and within the parish of Inverleithen, there are several other mountains, which are also remarkable for their elevations, such as, Dunslair, Sole, Whitehope law, Blackhope Scars, and Bowbeat. Companion, 49. (o) In the north-east part of Linton parish, upon the Black burn, there is a natural curiosity called the Harbour Craig. Ib., 58. (p) lb., 30. On the summit of this mountain, there is a rude collection of stones, which now marks the contiguous marches of three estates. We may easily suppose that the rude stones existed here many an age before those estates existed, (q) Stat. Acco., iv. 325. (r) Description of Tweeddale, 3. One of those terrible chasms is called Gums-cleugh, upon the head of Quair water. The cliffs that form this chasm are called Glendenns banks, and are more than half a mile in length, and from 200 to 300 feet high. Stat. Acco., xii. 378. Sect, III.— Its Natural Objects.] Of NORTH-BEITAIN. 895 this shire, along the marches of Ettrick forest, and is the most inhospitable part of Peebles-shire. Most of the hills of this shire, says the surveyor of its mountains and vales, wear an agreeable aspect, are easy of ascent, and are abundant in herbage. Nor are they so often deformed by hideous mosses, nor so frequently interrupted by horrid precipices, as many of the Scottish mountains (s). From the hills of this shire to the valleys below, the transition is easy. The dale of the Tweed forms, indeed, the great body of Peebles-shire. From it many vales branch off along the channels of the streams, which hasten to mingle their kindred waters with "the Tweed's silver flood. " These vales must neces- sarily be of various extent and different fertility. The most considerable and the most fruitful are the valleys on the Lyne and Eddlestone waters. In general, the dales and the dingles are most fertile, and the hills the most pleasant in the north and west of this shire, while in the south and east, the vales are more barren, and the mountains are more bleak. In the midst of all those inequalities of surface, Peebles-shire cannot boast of her lakes. Neither can the topographers of this county be allowed to assume the St. Mary Loch of Selkirkshire as their own, though its western margin, for more than a mile, forms the boundary of Peebles-shire. The most consider- able lake in this county is the Water-loch in Eddlestone parish (t). This beautiful lake is nearly three quarters of a mile long and half a mile broad, and abounds in pike and eels, while it is the periodical resort of wild -fowl which dip the wing in water (u). On the estate of Slipperfield, in Linton parish, there is a lake of nearly a mile and a half in circumference, which breeds pike and perch, but not eels, as the water is impregnated with moss (x). The only other lake which diversifies this shire, is Gameshope loch, within the bosom of an uninhabited glen, in Tweedsmuir parish, and which is emptied by Gameshope burn, one of the sources of Talla water (y). Yet is Peebles-shire well watered by many streams. The Tweed, however, is the great channel which collects and carries off the whole moisture of "this misty mountain ground." This celebrated river rises on the mountainous ridge that separates Tweeddale from Annandale ; and that sends the Tweed to the (s) Armstrong's Companion to his Map, 26. (<) This absurd name of Water loch it may have obtained, during ignorant times, from its being the source of the Esk, which in the Celtic literally signifies the water, (u) Armstrong's Companion, 40 ; Stat. Acco., xvii. 182. (x) Ib„ i. 127. (g) lb., 111. 896 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VII.— Peeblesshire. east sea, and the Annan to the west (z). In a rapid course of ten miles through the mountainous tract of Tweedsmuir the rivulet Tweed becomes a considerable riveret by receiving the sister streams of the Fruid, the Cor, and the Tala (a). From Tweedsmuir the Tweed now takes a northern course to Drummelzier, where this riveret receives the united streams of Holms, Kil- bucho, and Biggar (b). The Tweed turns eastward from Drummelzier, and runs in an east-north-east direction, till this common channel receives the Lyne river at the south-east extremity of the Sheriff moor. From this junction the Tweed continues a winding course to Peebles town, receiving in its run the water of Manor from the south, and having also received at the shire town, Eddlestone water, the Tweed courses eastward in a winding direction ; and receiv- ing in its flow the Quair, the Leithen, among smaller streams, this augmented river leaves Peebles-shire and enters Selkirkshire at the influx of Gaithope (z) The stone monument called Tweeds Cross stands 1632 feet above the sea level. Armstrong, who is a better surveyor than an antiquary, supposes this stone to have been an object of Druidical worship ; but as it stands on the roadside, where the way passes the summit of this ridge, it was pro- bably placed here as a direction-post, and afterwards converted into a land-boundary. (a) Fruid is a large stream which falls down the Hart-fell mountain, and is merely, in the origin of its name, the British Frewd, signifying a stream, a torrent. Davis and Owen. The Cor hastens, in many a turn, to join the Tweed, and derived its significant name from the Biitish Cor, which in this, as well as in the congenerous speech of the Irish, means a round or turn. The Talla, coming down from the northern face of the mountainous ridge which sends the Moffat to the south, is remarkable, in both its sources, for its many cataracts, which are here called linns, from the British linn, that is commonly applied, in Scotland, to the cataract rather than to the pool below. The Talla may have taken its British name from the lofty precipices under which it tumbles ; Tal, in the British speech, signifying what is over, or tops, what towers : or from the kindred Gaelic Talla, murmuring. The eagle, called the ern, finds among those precipices a secure place for her frequent incubation. (b) After draining the whole parish of Glenholm, the Holm water, at the lower end of it, joins Biggar water. Both the parish and the stream take their analogous names from the holms, or meadows, along the water side. The Biggar derives its name from the town of Biggar, by which it glides ; and coming soon upon the north-west corner of Kilbucho parish, it courses along the whole northern boundary of this district, when it receives the Kilbucho water ; and falling into the Holms water, they all find repose in the Tweed. The Kilbucho water derives its name from the parish which it drains. The Clyde, which has its sources in the same ridge with the spring of the Tweed, by a con- generous curvature, comes within a mile of Kilbucho parish ; and, if it were expedient, the Clyde might be easily conducted, as Armstrong observes, through the channel of Biggar water to the Tweed. In high floods, indeed, some of the waters of the Clyde overflow into the Biggar water, and are carried with it to the Tweed. Agricult. Survey, 4. Sect. HI.— Its Natural Objects.] Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 897 burn (c). The Tweed, from its source to the sea, descends from a height of 1,550 feet, one half of which it falls before it has coursed twenty miles. It has only one cataract, within eight miles of the spring, before it has been swelled by so many streamlets (d). The Tweed is the longest river in the south of Scotland, but not the largest within that country, as Armstrong supposes, and as we have seen from mensuration. Tweed formerly abounded with salmon, which have been nearly destroyed by artifice, at the call of in- terest ; yet Tweed and all its streams abound with trout. Tweed turns few mills, nor has its waters been contaminated much by noxious manufactures (e). Of the numerous streams which bestow their waters on the Tweed within this shire, the most considerable are the Lyne, the Eddlestone, and the Leithen, which fall into this common reservoir on the north, and the Manor and Quair on the south. The Lyne rises in the southern declivity of Cairn hill, on the north-western limits of Peebles-shire ; and collecting in a course of one- and-twenty miles the streamlets that drain the parishes of Linton, Newlands, Kirkurd, and Lyne, it consigns all their cognate waters to the Tweed. The Lyne has retained through many a change, its British appellation, which is nothing more than the British Llynn, signifying what flows, a fluid ( f). (c) The whole course of the Tweed through Peebles-shire is about - - - 41 miles. Through Selkirkshire ----.....9 Along Roxburghshire nearly - - - - - - _ -30 Along Berwickshire something more than - - - - - -22 The whole course of the Tweed - - - - - - -102 miles. Thus, the Tweed, in the south, runs - - - - - . -102 miles. The Tay, in the centre of Scotland, runs - - - - . -108 The Spey, in the north, runs - - - . . . . -102 And those large rivers fall into the east sea. (d) The cataract, which is near Tweedsmoor bridge, is called Carlow's linn. (e) Tweed was called Vueda, by Ptolomy, and Tueda by Richard ; Tuid by Bede ; and Tued by the British people, in whose speech the word signifies what is on a side, border, or region. Davis, Lhuyd, and Owen. All the blandishments of poetry have been bestowed on the Tweed. Drayton speaks of "Tweed's fair flood;" Ramsay delights to sing of " smooth-meand'ring Tweed;" Burns laments the " the Tweed's silver flood ; " Hamilton of Bangour chants of " the flow'r-blushing banks of the Tweed ; " and Crawford, the Scottish Shenstone, carols of " the sweet-winding Tay, and the pleasanter banks of the Tweed.'' if) Davis and Owen. Upon Lyne water, there were, in Dr. Pennecuick's time, four bridges and two corn mills. Descript. of Tweeddale, 10. Of the streamlets which the Lyne receives, the principal are the Tarth and the West water. The Tarth is chiefly formed by the eastern branch of the Medwin, 898 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VTL — PlaeUm-dure. Eddlestone water rises from Kings-seat hill, in Eddlestone parish, and forms the great drain of this district, by running through its centre from north to south ; and entering Peebles parish, falls into the Tweed at Peebles town, after a course of thirteen miles (•) lb., 102. (s) lb., 69. Armstrong had this so strongly in his head that he has called this place Bellon or War-rig. (/) Stat. Acco., iii. 326. (n) lb., xii. 10. The name of Cademmir pretty clearly intimates that the standing stones were erected here to preserve the remembrance of some battle. Cademuir is merely a corruption of the British Cad-maur, signifying the great battle. Davis and Owen. (.r) Such stones were sometimes called Cruces, which were probably the appropriate boundaries of the church-lands. An agreement between the abbot of Kelso and the abbot of Melrose, about the boundaries of Bolden, Eildon, and Darnwick, repeatedly mentions the Cruces, " que posita est,'' etc., and •' que sita est." Chart. Melrose, No. 59. During the reign of Alexander H., a charter of Alfric, the daughter of Edgar, in describing the limits of some lands in Nithsdale, mentions le Cruce, " que dicitur Cross gariauch, que est meta inter terram Canonicarum de Dercongal, et Derrangoram,'' etc. There is also mention of a cumulum lapideum. To., No. 103. Sect. IV. — Its Antiquities.] Of XORTH-BRITAIN. ( J09 only one rampart and fosse, while others of them have two, and some have three. Their ramparts were mostly formed of the materials which were thrown from the ditch, a mixture of earth and stones ; and where the stone abounded, the ramparts were formed of stones without cement. On the hill of Cademuir, in Peebles parish, there are four British strengths, which are all of a circular form; and one of them, that seems to have been intended to be the strongest, is surrounded by a rampart of stones without cement. This rampart, in part of its circumference, is double ; but where it is single, it is of a prodigious thickness (//). In Peebles parish, on a round hill called Janet's brae, there are two British strengths of a circular form, which are each sur- rounded by a rampart and fosse (z). In the same parish, on the summit of Meldun, a pretty large hill, there are the remains of a British strength in a round form, and of considerable circumference. In the same parish, there are the remains of several strengths of the same kind (a) ; particularly, one on the hill above Hutchin-field, another near Hays ton -craig, a third on the hill above Wham, and a fourth on the hill called Ew -hill-rig (b). In Manor parish, there are the remains of several British hill-forts, which are of a circular form ; particularly two on Hound hill, one on Caver hill, one near Hudleshope, and one on a small hill named the Ring knowe, the entrenchments whereof are called the Rings (c). In Traquair parish, there are the remains of several British forts, which are of a round form and are called Chesters (d). On a height adjoining the village of Inverleithen, there are the remains of a British strength, which appears to have been surrounded by three ramparts and fosses, that secure an area of more than an English acre (e). In Eddlestone parish there are the remains of several British forts. One of these, called Milkingston Rings, stands on a hill above Milkingston ; is of a circular form and is surrounded by ramparts and fosses that are very entire. From Milkingston Rings, about two and a half miles on the north, there is another British fort, called North- shield Rings, on the summit of a hill at Northshield ; and there is another hill-fort on the most northerly summit of Kings-seat-Edge (f). In Newlands (y) Stat. Acco., xii. 9 ; and Companion, 92. (z) Id. In the Stat. Acco., the name of Janets hill is blundered into Frineti. (a) Stat. Acco., xii. 11. (b) Companion to the map, 92. (c) Companion, 69. (d) Stat. Acco., xii. 378. Chester is applied to many British forts in the south of Scotland. The Caer of the Britons was by the Romans called Castrum, and by the Anglo-Saxons Ceaster, which was softened to Chester. Verstegan's Antiq., 213 ; and Somner in vo. The old English, says Lhuyd, turned every Caer of ours into Ceaster, Chester, etc. Adversaria. (e) Stat. Acco., xix. 603. (/) Companion to the map, 40. 4 5 X 910 An ACCOUNT [Oh. VII.— Peebles-shire. parish, there are the remains of several British forts on the tops of several hills. One of these is on the summit of the Terrace hill, above the church (g) ; there is another on Whiteside hills ; there are two other forts above Drochill which are pretty entire (h) ; there is one of those forts on Hunderland hill ; and there is another on Broad hill (i). On a rising ground above Linton there is the remain of a British fort of a circular form ; and there was formerly the remain of another such fort on the top of Lead law (k). In Kirkurd parish there are the remains of several British strengths ; there is one of a circular form called the Rings, on an eminence near Ladyurd, and about two and a half miles north-west from the Roman camp at Lyne ; and there is another British strength called the Chesters, on the farm of Lochurd, to the west- ward (I) ; and there is another named the Green Castle, on the hill above Blyth (to). On a small hill called the Gallow law, near Skirling, there are the remains of a British fort of a round form ; and there are the remains of another such fort on a hill near Muirburn, in this parish (n). Armstrong the surveyor was induced by his folly to laugh at the country people who believe those British hill-forts to be Roman, because most of them are called Chesters ; and he is prompted by his ignorance to talk confidently of those hill-forts being constructed " not only to secure cattle," but as ex- ploratory camps to the lower forts. By the lower forts he absurdly alludes to the old towers of recent times, which were built during the anarchy which succeeded the sad demise of Robert Bruce. The map-maker thus confounds the open hill-forts of the earliest people with the close fortlets of the latest proprietors. With the same absurdity he talks of the Druid temples being (g) The hill is so called from having on its acclivities those singular works called Terraces. Penne- cuick mentions this British strength as surrounded by a rampart of earth and stones, with its ac- companying ditch ; as if, he adds, it had been some Roman garrison. Description, 16. (h) These are the Chesters which are mentioned by Gordon in his Itinerary, as at Dorchill and at Cowthrople. They are three statute miles north-north-west from the Roman camp at Lyne. Armstrong mistakingly asserts, "that Gordon imagines them to have been Roman exploratory castles." Companion, 76. On the contrary, Gordon refutes the notion of these and other British forts in that part of the country being Roman, because they are of a round or oval form and not rectangular, and have not the elegancy of workmanship which characterize the Roman labours. (i) Gordon's Itin. Septent., 115 ; Companion to the map, 74-6. (Jc) Companion, 57. (/) Stat. Acco., x. 183. (m) Gordon's Itinerary, 115. Gordon also mentions two circular forts on the Broomy-Law, west- ward from Kirkurd parish, which seems to have been defaced before Armstrong's Survey in 1775. Id. ; Companion, 53. . (n) Companion, 94. Sect. IV. — Its Antiquities.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 911 constructed for the worship of Woden ; and with an extraordinary stretch of stupidity, he supposes some of the sepulchral tumuli of the ancient Britons to have been erected "to direct travellers from one place to another (o)." The popular tradition of the country, however, assigns those hill-forts, as well as all the British works, to the Picts, who were ancient Britons, as we have seen. Some of the less intelligent of the local antiquaries ascribe those very primitive works to the Soman legionaries. Connected with the strengths of the Britons, are their weapons for war. Near to Lour, in Drummelzier parish, was found, a short while before the year 1775, a stone axe, or British Celt (p). We have already seen that there was discovered, in a British sepulchre, three flint stones, one whereof was formed like a halbert (q). This was, no doubt, a large Celt, which resembles the head of a halbert with its point broken off. About the year 1775, was found, near some sepulchral tumuli in Linton parish, a short sword or poinard of brass. In the King's muir, within a barrow, was discovered, as we have seen, an inverted urn, containing, with the ashes of the warrior, the blade of his dagger (r). The Romans were undoubtedly the first people who came in upon the British aborigines in this district. Neither of the great roads which that enterprising people carried northward, with their Caledonian conquests, pass through any part of Peebles-shire. The Watling-street, which courses from Cumberland into Clydesdale, traverses the country within half a mile of the western extremity of Peebles-shire, where there is a natural passage from the Clyde to the Tweed. It was, probably, through this opening that the Romans found their way, and kept up the connection, between their posts in Clydesdale and their camps in Tweeddale. There is a very strong Roman post on the eastern side of the Lyne, near to Lyne kirk, and about ten miles eastward from the Watling-street, as it traverses Clydesdale. This camp was first noticed by Pennecuick, who says, the country people call it Randal's walls (s). It was next mentioned by Gordon, who idly supposes it to have been one of the works of Severus. It was afterward sur- veyed by Roy, who has left us an elaborate plan of Lyne camp (t). It next fell under the inspection of Armstrong the surveyor, who has added some new (o) Companion, 20-70. A sepulchral tumulus near East-Hartree, he says. " is probably Danish,'' and seems to have been either a burial mount or an object of direction through this marshy vale. Ib., 51. (p) Companion to the map, 34. (r/) Stat. Acco., x. 186 (r) lb., xii. 15. (s) Description of Tweeddale. (f) Malik Antiq., pi. xxviii. 912 An ACCOUNT [Ok. VII— Peebles-shire. notices to the intimations of Gordon (u). Armstrong concurs with Pennecuick in saying that this Roman camp is called by the country people Randal's wall, as Randolph, the Earl of Murray, is supposed to have built Lyne kirk and to have had a house within the camp. This camp, the surveyor says, is 495 feet square, and contains six acres and two roods. The minister says the ground within this camp has been often ploughed, and Roman coins are said to have been frequently found within its area (x). In the country for several miles round this Roman post there are various British hill-forts, which this camp was probably designed to bridle on some hostile occasion w r hich cannot now be traced. From the post at Lyne, about nine miles north-north-west, there are the remains of a Roman camp on the northern side of Upper-Whitefield, in Linton par ish. This camp is in the form of a paralellogram, and is surrounded by a single fosse and rampart, which are now nearly obliterated. Its dimensions, says Gordon, are much the same with the Roman fort at Ardoch (y). From the eagerness of this antiquarian tourist to connect Roman works with Romanno, he states this Roman camp to be only one mile north-west from that place, but it is, in fact, three and a half statute miles north of Romanno ; and there is not the least vestige of any Roman remains at Romanno (2). The minister of Manor informs us that there is in his parish a Roman camp which is pretty entire, and in the neighbourhood of which were found on digging some ground, a Roman urn and some ancient coins (a). It were to be (m) Armstrong speaks particularly of the Prcetorium in the centre, and of the redoubt and the cause- way to the eastward. Companion, 64. In p. 22, however, he says, " we find no visible track to or from Lyne camp." But the minister of Lyne says, positively, "that the road leading to it is still visible, and runs through the present glebe." Stat. Acco., ii. 564. (x) Id. The last person who inspected this camp with an accurate eye was the late Mungo Park, the African traveller, who kindly sent me his observations with some sketches, in October 1802. Lyne camp, he says, is situated on a rising ground five miles west of Peebles, a little to the north of the road to Glasgow, and about 600 yards west of Lyne kirk. It is in tolerable preservation, except on the north side, where 112 yards of the trench have been filled up and ploughed, but the hollow is still visible. This camp, considered as a military post, must have possessed considerable advantages. From its elevation it must have been always dry and healthful ; and being situated farther to the west- ward than the places where the Lyne, the Manor, and Edlestane waters join the Tweed, it is evident that the communication could be seldom interrupted by floods, even during the winter months, as the troops could ford each of those streams, separately, with much more ease than after their junction. Such is the solid sense of Mungo Park ! (y) Itinerary, 114 ; Companion to the map, 59. (z) Companion to the map, 74. (a) Stat. Acco., iii. Yet, no such camp is intimated by Armstrong, who made his Survey before the minister wrote his Account. The minister says it is at a small distance from « tower Sect. IV. — Its Antiquities.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 913 wished that the minister had been more particular in the description of the size, the form, and the situation of his camp, that we might have determined from the circumstances whether it had been formed by Roman hands (b). During the ninth century, the Britons of Strathclyde and of Tweeddale appear to have been pressed upon by the Scoto-Irish on the west, and the Scoto-Saxons on the east. Those several pressures were so much felt, that a considerable emigration of Britons from both those countries to Wales took place in 890 a.d. (c). By this emigration of the most enterprising Britons, the kingdom of Strathclyde must have been greatly weakened ; and its govern- ment was overpowered by the Scottish king in 974 a.d. (d). From this epoch, the Scoto-Irish intermingled with the remaining Britons on the Upper Tweed, not so much as hostile intruders, as fellow subjects of a congenerous people (e). The Scoto-Irish people have, indeed, left many indications of their settlements upon the Upper Tweed, by the number of their words that may be now traced in its topography. There is, indeed, so great an analogy between the sister dialects of the British and Irish speech, and so much of the topographical language of Peebles-shire is common to both those languages, that it is often difficult to determine whether some names were originally applied by the Britons, or, subsequently, by the Scoto-Irish. To that analogy may be traced the cause why so many of the British words have remained within this district in their first forms. The Scoto-Irish, knowing the significance of the words, and seeing the fitness of their application to the several objects, allowed them to remain, or new-modelled them to their purpose. The glen of the Irish raised upon an eminence, commanding the best view in the parish. This tower is probably the lofty- ruin which stands on a steep knoll called Castle hill, three and a half statute miles south-east from Lyne camp. (0) An octangular vase of brass, nine inches in height, was dug up near Traquair, and was presented by the Earl of Traquair to the Antiquarian Society of Edinburgh. Acco. of the Society, 55. But the antiquaries have not settled to what people this curious vase belonged. (c) See before, bk. hi., ch 5. (rf) Id. (e) That the Scoto-Irish interminged with the Britons here is apparent, from the topography of Peebles-shire. In it we see Irish vocables grafted on British names. Inver-leithen was formed by prefixing the Irish Inbher, which signifies an influx, on the British name of the river Leithen. This formation, then, evinces that the Britons must have preceded the Irish ; as, indeed, we know was the fact, from the tenor of the history of both those people. In the same topography we may find the Saxon dene pleonastically superinduced upon the Irish glen, both signifying a deep narrow valley ; and this indicates sufficiently that the Irish preceded the Saxons in this shire. The Saxon law, a hill, has also been superinduced upon some of the Scoto-Irish names ; such as, Duill-ard law, Sy-ard laiv, and so of others. 914 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VII.— Peebles-shire. signifying, as we have seen, a deep narrow vale, is merely the glyn of the British, which may be seen very often on the map of this shire (/). The many names which we thus perceive in every part of Peebles-shire with the prefix glen, were all undoubtedly imposed by the Scoto-Irish people, with some reference to the British glyn, which may have here existed before. The Irish cnoc, signifying a hill, is merely the British cnwc, signifying a swelling, a knob, and metaphorically, a hill, and is applied to many hills in Peebles-shire (g). The Scottish people, who imposed their name hwc on so many hills in this district, recognized the cnwc of the British, which signified the same thing ; but when the Scoto-Saxon people formed so many pleonasms, by affixing hill to cnoc, they did not understand the meaning of the word cnoc. The Irish druim, signifying a ridge, is applied to several heights in Peebles-shire, and is still retained in some names of places, as Z)rw?nmelzier, Drammaw. The Celtic dun, signifying a hill, is retained in the names of several hills, as Dwndroich, the Druid's hill, .Dimslair, Hamil-ofom, Drider-dun of Pont, which is corrupted into the Dvitevton of Armstrong. Several of the smaller streams in Peebles-shire retain the name of alt, which had been given them by the Scoto-Irish settlers, as Cram-aZ£, the winding rill, Garw-aZ£, the rivulet in Linton, and Garw-a^ in Inverleithen ; and we may even now recognise the Irish poll, signifying a rivulet, in Poll- mood, within Drummelzier, Pow-ssd\, the vulgar pronunciation of Pol-sail, the willow rill of Merlin's prophecy, Pol-&n-tarf, the bull's rivulet. Many other names, which were applied by the Scoto-Irish settlers in Peebles-shire, still remain, though some of them have been corrupted (h). A very long list of Gaelic names of places in Peebles-shire might be given as the best evidence (/) Davis, and Owen. We may here see Glen-isco, Glen-hreck, Cr/e»-whaip, which has been changed to Cr/en-whappen, Glen-nmhn, Glen-mnick, Glen-keirie, Glen-achan, Glen-cotho, Glen-harvey, Gleri-lxiAe, Glen-holm, Glen-rath, Glen-gaher, Glen, Glen-hide, Glen-g\aher, in Traquair, Glen-tress, Glen-sax. (g) The Welsh Diet. There are Knock hill, in Linton ; Knock hill, in Skirling ; Knock hill, in Tweedsmuir; Knock knows, in Kirkurd. The word know, that is every where applied in Scotland to a little hill, is merely the vulgar pronunciation of knoll, which is itself the British cimll. a hillock. Johnson gives the word knoll, from Ainsworth ; but he did not know that the word is pure British, and had been simply adopted into their speech by the Saxons, with many other British words. (h) DmWard hill, in Pont, is corrupted by Armstrong into Dollar law ; Tarf water, in Pont, is -called Polintarf by Pennecuick ; Blairhog, in Pennecuik, has, by an absurd perversion, been called the Whim, though the Scottish name was very descriptive of the soft mossy field. Such whimsical men as change the descriptive name of their places for La Mancha, and such like, do not reflect that they are destroying the best evidences of their obscure history. Sect. IV. — Its Antiquities.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 915 how far the Scoto-Irish people had spread over this country, and how long they had remained (i). The Scoto-Saxons, as we have seen, may have pressed upon the Britons of the Tweed from Selkirk, from Roxburgh, and from Lothian, during early times ; but it is apparent, from the foregoing intimations, that the Scoto-Saxons came in upon the Upper Tweed after the settlement of the Scoto-Irish there, as they came in themselves upon the aboriginal Britons many an age after the Gadeni had bravely fought for Tweedside with the Roman legionaries. The year 945 is the epoch when Malcolm I. became sovereign "of all Cumberland (£)." The year 974 marks the period when the Britons of Upper-Tweed, as well as in Strathclyde, ceased to govern themselves, as their government was then suppressed by the superior power of Kenneth III., the son of Malcolm L The year 1020 is the era when Malcolm II. became sovereign of Lothian (I). If the Scoto-Saxons came in upon the Upper Tweed subsequent to those dates, they must have settled there gradually, by some right, as subjects, and not forcibly, by conquest, as enemies. When, or by whatever title they came in, the Scoto-Saxons ultimately prevailed in this district, and finally established a permanent settlement among the Scoto-Irish and the descendants of the original Britons (m). In Peebles-shire, the Celtic names, both British and Irish, bear a much greater proportion to the Scoto-Saxon than in the more eastern counties of Selkirk, Roxburgh, and Berwick. This superiority of Celtic to Teutonic names undoubtedly proceeded from the long and late possession of the Britons here, and from the thorough mixture of the Scoto-Irish among them, not as enemies, but as friends, many a day before the Scoto-Saxons intermingled with both, as fellow subjects of the Scottish kings. The Scoto-Saxon names of places in this district are the same as those of Selkirk and Roxburgh (n), a (i) Such as, Glnck, in Manor parish ; Cloch, and Cloch hills, Cringletie, Kilrubie, Calacairn, in Eddlestone ; Inverleithen aDd Colquhar, in Inverleithen ; Kailzie, Fetheim, and Teniel. in Traquair : Clochmore, Craigdilly, and Syart, in Megget ; Lour and Pateruan, in Drummelzier ; Gairlet, Ballaman, Badlean, Badenhay, Badentry, Blairsheep, and Craigmad, in Twenlsmuir ; Glack and Rathan, in Glenholm : Kilbucho and Bleneicing. in Kilbucho ; Daljindow, in Linton ; and Wham, in Peebles parish. (k) Saxon Chronicle. (Z) Sim. of Durham. There are charters of Malcolm IV. and his brother "William specially addressed to the Welsh people of Strathclyde and Upper-Tweed. Caledonia, i., 353. Those charters evince, then, how low down the descendants of the original Britains remained, as a known people, in some districts of Peebles. («) Such as. law, a hill ; cleugh, a ravine : dene, a valley ; shiel, a pastoral habitation ; shaw. a copse-wood ; dod, which is applied to half a dozen hills, and is probably the same as the old English 916 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VII.— Peebles-shire. coincidence this, which evinces that the Scoto-Saxons came in from the east, and not through Dumfries-shire, where the Scoto- Saxon names of places are of a somewhat different cast. Many of the Scoto-Saxon appellations in Peebles- shire are obviously grafted on the previous Scoto-Irish, and British names, in pleonastic forms, by a people, who being of a different lineage, were unac- quainted with the prior names. This fact, then, evinces decisively that the settlements of the Scoto-Saxons here were made in much more recent times than the establishments of the original Britons, and the later colonization of the Scottish people of Gaelic descent. We have now traced four lineages of men into the well-watered vale of Upper Tweed, — the Britons, the Romans, the Scoto-Irish and the Scoto-Saxons — yet it is very difficult to assign to each of them their appropriate antiquities, particularly the terraces, which abound in this district. Of such works, the most considerable are those on a beautiful green mount called Terrace hill above Newlands. Along the whole face of this hill there are eleven or twelve terraces, from fifteen to twenty feet broad, which rise by a regular gradation to the top (o). Somewhat more than half a mile northward from Terrace hill, there is a smaller mount called the Moot hill, which has several tiers of terraces on it, and which, from its name, appears to have been appropriated in more modern times for the administration of justice to a rustic people (p). At Kir- kurd and at Skirling, the former three miles, and the latter seven and a half miles from Terrace hill, there are the appearances of similar rows of terraces (q). At Smithfield in the vicinity of Peebles there are also terraces (r) ; and Pennecuick, after describing the terraces at Newlands, says, that there are like terraces to be seen upon several other hills in Tweeddale (s). When or by whom those terraces were formed, it is not easy to ascertain. The tradition among the inhabitants is that they were made by the Picts, to whom, like the giants of other lands, the country people attribute all the more ancient works that were formed by the Britons, who, as we have seen, were the proper tod, a bush, or tuft ; lee, a field, a pasture-field ; ham, a dwelling ; and by, a habitation. Hope, a little vale without a thoroughfare., is an old Norman-French word, as we may learn from Bullet, and as we have seen ; and the word hope could not of course have existed here long before the arrival of so many Anglo-Norman families under David L It was in the same age that the Upper-Tweed obtained the name of Tweedda/e, and perhaps from the same people. (o) Penneeuick's Description, 16. Gordon speaks, in his Itinerary, more magnificently ; for a whole mile, says he, it appears like a large amphitheatre, and may be seen at four or five miles distance. And see the Companion to the map, 73. (p) The Rev. Charles Findlater intimates as much in his MS. Note on the Companion, 73. (q) Gordon's Itinerary, 115. (>•) Companion, 93. (s) Description, 16. Sect. IV. — Its Antiquities.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 017 Picts (t). From the example of the Catrail, we know that the Romanized Britons were capable of undertaking and executing much larger works. But whatever people did construct those terraces, they were evidently intended for the accommodation of spectators to enjoy some sport of whatever kind, though some of them were afterward appropriated to the administration of justice (u). From the terraces, we may naturally turn to the castles, which seem, indeed, to have been built by the Scoto-Saxons. At Traquair, the Scottish kings had a castle in the twelfth century, where they occasionally resided for the pur- pose of hunting in Traquair forest (x). It is not quite certain whether this ancient castle stood on the site of Traquair house, which Pennecuick calls a palace, and praises as stately. This building, which stands on the junction of the Quair and Tweed, was obviously constructed in different ages. The oldest part, as it is of great antiquity, and seems to have been a strong tower, was doubtless the king's castle (?/). The modern part was built during the reign of Charles I., by the great Earl of Traquair, the Lord Treasurer of Scotland, who is praised by Clarendon for his knowledge of affairs and skill in the manage- ment of them. At Peebles there appears to have been an ancient castle on the eminence which has been called the castle hill, on the point of land that is formed by the junction of the Peebles water with the Tweed. There is no notice of any existing ruin on this pleasant height, and the summit of the hill, where once stood the castle, has been converted into a bowling-green (z). On Wood hill in Manor parish, there are some remains of an ancient building, which bears the name of Macbeth' s castle (a). There is a ruin in Broughton parish which is also called Macbeth's castle, and which tradition tells was the well-known Macbeth (b). There were, however, considerable persons of this (/) Gordon's Itinerary, 115. Armstrong considers the British hill-fort, on the summit of the Terrace hill, as an indication that the terraces were made by the Britons. The surveyor, we see, does sometimes write with sense. Companion, 74. (u) The plain below the terrace on the height at Markinch, in Fife, retains at this day the appro- priate name of Play field. Stat. Acco., xii., 552. (x) From this castle several of the charters of William the Lion were dated. (y) Description of Tweeddale, 39 ; Stat. Acco., 378 ; Companion to the map, 99. This castle, and the forest about it, remained in the crown probably till the reign of Robert Bruce, who granted both to his zealous supporter, Sir James Douglas. Robertson's Index. This forest came from the Douglases to the Murrays. It returned to the crown by the forfeiture of William de Moravia, "the outlaw Murray ; " and in 1478 was granted by James III., to James, Earl of Buchan, who transmitted it in patrimony to James Stewart, his son. Crawfurd's Peerage, 480. (z) Description of Tweeddale ; Stat. Account of Peebles ; and Companion to the map. (a) Companion to the map, 70. (b) Stat. Acco., vii., 159. 4 5 Y 918 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VII.— Peebles-shire. name in Mid-Lothian under David I., particularly Macbeth of Liberton (c) ; and this personage may have had lands and a castle in Peebles-shire (d). Of Oliver castle, the early residence of the Frasers in Peebles-shire, there exists only a small remain to mark its site in Tweedsmuir parish. Oliver castle was pro- bably erected here towards the end of the twelfth century, and was long the residence of an influential family (e). On Fruid water in Tweedsmuir, there are the remains of Fruid castle, where the Frasers also resided of old (/*). Drummelzier castle, which stood on the east bank of the Tweed, and which Armstrong supposes to have been very ill to assail or defend, was also built by the Frasers, probably in the twelfth century, from whom, by marriage, it came to the Tweedies (g). A mile north-north-east from Drummelzier castle stands the ruins of Tinnis castle upon a pointed rock, which rendered it a more safe retreat than the former ; and Tinnis castle was the residence of the Tweedies, who domineered here through ages of anarchy (h). Neidpath castle, which is also said to have been a residence of the Frasers and Tweedies, stands upon a projecting rock on the northern bank of the Tweed above Peebles (i). This castle, as it has been inhabited in more recent times, is one of the com- pletest specimens of such buildings, both as to its architecture and strength (k). The ruins of Shielgreen castle stand on an eminence in Peebles parish (I). (c) Chart. Holyrood, 1128. (cZ) In fact, Simon, the son of MacBeth, was sheriff of Traquair in 1184 a.d. Chart. Newbotle, No. 30. A late proprietor caused this ruin to be searched for treasure and antiquities ; but there was only found by the search some pieces of old armour, and some coins of no great consequence, saith the minister. Stat. Acco., vii. 159. (e) Oliver, the son of Kylvert, granted to the monks of Newbotle a carucate of land and common of pasture, within the manor of Hale. Chart. Newbotle, No. 81. To this grant, Jocelin, the bishop Glasgow, from 1175 to 1199 A.D. is a witness. And this grant was confirmed by the nephew of Oliver, Adam, the son of Udard Fraser ; and it is witnessed by Dominus Bernard Fraser. Ib., 82. Oliver, then, was a Fraser. (f) Stat. Acco., viii. 89. (g) Description by Pennecuick, 26 ; Companion by Armstrong, 32. (h) Description, 26. Tweedie, saith Pennecuick, obliged all passengers " to strike sail, salute, and pay homage to his hautiness." Armstrong, indeed, relates, from the tradition of the country people, who delight in such tales, that King James V., who was not of a temper to bend to border chiefs, passing this way, was challenged, and detained, by Tweedie, who easily obtained forgiveness on making an apology. The king was perhaps pleased with the humour of this stout fellow, who domineered over smaller men in a wild recess. (») lb., 30 ; Companion, 87 ; and there is a view of Neidpath castle in Grose's Antiq., ii. 222-3. (£) The walls of this castle were formed of whin-stones, which were cemented by run lime, being twelve feet thick. Companion, 87. (I) lb., 92. Sect. IV. — Its Antiquities.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 919 Horsburgh castle is also a strong tower, which is pleasantly situated on a height in Inverleithen parish, on the northern bank of the Tweed. Such were the principal strengths which the Scoto- Saxons built of " stane and lyme," within Peebles-shire in ancient times (m). Those ancient towers were all extremely like each other, in situation, in construction, and in use. They were generally placed on an eminence of difficult access. They were commonly three or four stories high, the lower floor being vaulted with walls eleven or twelve feet thick of stone cemented by lime, which are now as firm as a rock. The entrance into the lower storey was secured by a strong wooden door, which was strengthened by an iron gate within. The invention of gun-powder and artillery rendered such towers as useless as fortlets, as they had always been incon- venient as dwellings. Some antiquaries suppose that a continued series of those towers was built upon a systematic plan along the Tweed, from its source to its issue. It is, however, sufficiently obvious that those several towers were all built at successive times by distinct proprietors, for their residence and safe-guard, during a long period of tumultuous times (n). Drochil castle, indeed, which was begun on the Lyne water in Newlands parish in 1578, was left by the Regent Morton, who fell under the axe in June 1581 ; but this large edifice was designed, saith Pennecuick, more for a palace than a castle, and now exhibits in its mighty ruins the disgrace of its ambitious founder (o). § v. Of its Establishment as a Shire.~\ The thirteenth century had almost expired before the several districts on the Upper Tweed were formed into one shire, or constituted a sheriffdom. The earliest charter of David L in (m) There were, indeed, in this country a number of other strong towers, which are of more recent erection during anarchical ages. In Inverleithen parish, there are the tower of Nether-Horsburgh and the Peel-house of Ormiston ; and there were castellated houses at Caverstone, at Purvis hill, and Inverleithen. In Traquair parish there are several ruins of strong towers. There is one at Cardrona, which is almost entire ; and there are others at Bold, and at Grieston. There was a tower at Lyne. There were such castellated strengths at East-Happrea, at East-Dawik, and at Drevah, in Stobo. There was a tower in Manor parish, on a lofty knoll called the Castle hill. There was a Peel-house at Lour, in Drummelzier. There are still the remains of ten towers in Brougkton. The mansion-house of Hartree, in Kilbuko, is merely an old tower repaired. In Glenholm there are no fewer than six old castles. In Tweedsmuir, there are the remains of a strong tower at Hawkshaw, which was the residence of an old family of the name of Porteous. In Megget parish, there were two towers, one at Cramalt, and the other at Henderson, the residence of Cockburn, the king of the thieves. (n) Companion to the map, 21 ; Stat. Acco., x. 12. (o) Description, 16 ; Companion to the map of Peebles, 75-6. 920 An ACCOUNT [Ch. XU.— Peebles-shire. 1118 A.D., describes this country by the name of Tueddal (p). Malcolm IV., who died in 1165, speaks of the same country by the name of Tuededale (q). We perceive, then, that neither of those kings, when thinking and writing of Tweeddale, had within their contemplation a shire (>•). We know, however, that there were two sheriffs in Tweeddale during the subsequent reign — one at Traquair, and another sheriff at Peebles, owing to the co-existence of two royal castles in Tweeddale at Traquair and at Peebles, having each an appropriate jurisdiction. The first sheriff' in Tweeddale whom my researches have discovered, is Symon, the son of Macbeth, who was victcomes de Travequeyr in 1184 (s). The first sheriff of Peebles whom I have found in the chartularies, was John, vicecomes de Pebblis in November 1227 (t). The second sheriff of Traquair, whom I have seen in the chartularies, is Gilbert Fraser, who held a court for deciding a contest about some lands in Stobo, between William, the bishop of Glasgow, and Mariota, the daughter of Samuel. This law-suit was carried by the king's precept before Gilbert Fraser, " tunc vicecomes de Travquer ; " and Mariota resigned her claim to the lands in contest, "in curia vicecomitatu de Travequer (u)." There is a very curious precept of Alexander II., which is addressed to his sheriff and bailies of Traquair, commanding them to imprison all excommunicated persons within their jurisdictions (x). The second sheriff of Peebles, whom I have perceived (p) Chart. Kelso, No. 1. (q) Diploru. Scotiae, pi. xxiv. (r) In Dugdale's Monast., i. 399, there is a charter of Alexander de Trevaquer, which is witnessed, among other inhabitants of Traquair, " Roberto Viceconiite," and which seems to be of the age of David L This Eobert, then, was no doubt the king's sheriff of Traquair. (s) Chart. Newbotle, 30. Nisbet, indeed, talks of the Frasers being great proprietors here, and sheriffs of Traquair, during the reign of Malcolm IV. ; but he does not produce any authority for such assertions, except the interested fictions of the decapitated Lord Lovat. Heraldry, ii. App., 114; Shaw's Moray, 133. (t) He was one of the witnesses who were present in the church of Peebles, at the determination of a controversy between Walter, the Bishop of Glasgow, and William, the abbot of Paisley. Chart. Glasgow, 181. (w) lb., 275. We are to remember, for settling the epoch of this contest, that William was bishop of Glasgow from 1233 to 1258. Gilbert Fraser, the sheriff of Traquair, was a witness to a charter of Eugine, the son of Amabill, resigning his right to the same William, bishop of Glasgow, in the manor of Stobo. Ib., 279. As sheriff of Traquair, Gilbert was again a witness in a charter of Christiana, granting lands to the church of St. Mary during the reign of Alexander HI., and the prevalence of the Comyns. Ib., 445. (ar) This precept, which the king commanded to be published in all his bailiewick of Traquair, was dated the 15th July, 1242. Ib., 235. There remains another precept of Alexander H., which was dated somewhat earlier perhaps, addressed to John de Vallibus, the sheriff of Edinburgh, Gilbert Fraser, Sect. Y.—Its Establishment as a Shire.] Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 921 in the chart ularies was Simon Fraser, who was sheriff of Peebles before the year 1263 (y). He witnessed a deed in favour of the monks of Kelso in 1266 (2). This Simon Fraser, who is called the father in the records of that period, was a person of great property and power in Peebles-shire, was one of the Magnates Scotia? at the demise of Alexander III. ; and, by the name of Simon Fraser, was the only Fraser who sat in the parliament which met at Brigham on the 12th of March 1289-90, being the only Fraser, probably, who then held lands in chief of the crown (a). On the 12th of June 1291, he swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick (b) ; and he died soon after, retaining undoubtedly till his decease the office of sheriff of Peebles (c). Simon Fraser's lands, and perhaps his sheriffship, and certainly his consequence, descended to his son Simon, who was equal to the father as a statesman, and superior to him as a soldier. When so many of the Scottish chiefs were in the power of Edward I., Simon Fraser was his prisoner in 1296 ; and in 1297, among greater men of his country, Simon Fraser engaged to serve the English king in his foreign wars (d). He probably never executed his involuntary engagement. He fought strenuously against Edward in 1302. The English king would no longer hear of pardon for this enterprising warrior, and again getting him in his power, at the battle of Methven, he ordered him to be put to the sheriff of Trauequayr, N. de Heris, forestar, and W. de Pennycok, commanding them with the honest men of the country to ascertain the extent of the pasture of Lethanhop, with the pertinents, and to return the same, with the yearly value thereof, to him, by their writ, signed and sealed. Chart. Newbotle, 130. (y) Simon Fraser was a witness to a charter of Alexander III., which was dated at Traquair on the 12th of December 1264. Diplom, Scoriae, pi. 36. There is a precept of Alexander III., addressed to Simon Fraser on the 25th of July 1263, directing him to pay yearly to the hospital of Soltre, half a chalder of oat-meal out of the mill of Peebles. Chart. Soltre, 8. (*) Chart. Kelso, 189. (a) Eym. Foed., ii. 471. (b) Rym. Foed., ii. 567. Simon Fresthell, probably Simon Fraser, the son, swore fealty to Edward at Lindores, on the 22d of July 1291. Ib., 570. (c) On the 15th of January 1291-2, Edward L granted to William, the son of John Comyn, during pleasure, the keeping of the forests of Treqner and Selechirche, with the pertinents, in the same manner as Simon Fraser. lately deceased, had the keeping of the same. Bot. Scotiae, 7. On the 18th of June 1292, Edward appointed William de Peret to be sheriff of Trequeyr. Ib., 8. These notices, from the Eecord, prove the death of Simon Fraser, the Father, in 1291, and convey the latest intima- tion of a sheriff of Traquair. (d) Bym. ii., 769 ; and for his faithful performance, he pledged his wife and his children and all that was his. His cousin, Richard Fraser, entered into the same engagement. Id. 922 An ACCOUNT [Cb. VII.— Peebles-shire. death in 1306 (e). The two sheriffs of Tweeddale probably continued through- out the disastrous times which succeeded the sad demise of Alexander III. In 1304 Edward I. undoubtedly appointed Ademar de Valence, the Earl of Pem- bi*oke, and his heirs to be sheriff of Peebles {/). Yet when Edward L, by his well-known ordinance, settled the government of Scotland in 1305, he considered Peebles as a sheriffwic, and appointed for his sheriff Robert de Hasting (g). The sheriffwic of Traquair had before that memorable epoch become merged in the sheriffdom of Peebles. The forest, castle, and bailliewick of Traquair, were granted by Robert Bruce to Sir James Douglas, but it does not clearly appear to whom that great prince gave the office of sheriff of Peebles {h). In 1334 Edward Baliol conveyed to Edward III., " Villam, et castrum, et comitatum de Pebles " (i). The Hays of Locherworth certainly became sheriffs of Peebles before the beginning of the fifteenth century (k). This family appears to have enjoyed this office hereditarily beyond the accession of King James to the English throne. Sir William Hay, the sheriff' of Peebles, married Johanna, the eldest daughter of Hugh Gifford, with whom he obtained the barony of Yester. His grandson John, Lord Hay of Yester, continued sheriff of Peebles from 1462 (e) That eminent man, who was probably sheriff of Peebles, at his death, did not leave a son to avenge his fall ; but he left two daughters, the one of whom married Sir Patrick Fleming, and the other Sir Gilbert Hay of Locherworth, the progenitor of the Marquis of Tweeddale ; and both Fleming and Hay quartered in their armorial bearings the cinque foils of the Frasers. Officers of State, 272 ; Nisbet's Essay on Armories, 98, pi. iii. (/) Abbrev. Rot. Origin., 151. ( Acco>) xiLj 375- (e) Davis and Owen's W. Die. ; Pryce's Arch.; and O'Brien and Shaw's Gaelic Diet. (f) Companion to the Map, 47-99. (^) lb., 100. Sect. VDL-/i! Ecclesiastical History.] Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 947 pronounced Inver, signifying the influx or junction of two riverets, which is prefixed to the more ancient British name of this mountain torrent, which derived its name from its quality of flooding its banks, as we have already seen. Malcolm IV. granted to the monks of Kelso the church of Inverleithen wherein his son reposed the first night after his decease, and he commanded, as an additional favour, that this church should enjoy the same power of refuge as had Wedale and T} T ningham (A). In 1232 the church of Inverleithen was confirmed to the monks by their diocesan, William, the bishop of Glasgow {%). At the end of the thirteenth century, the monks state, as a part of their pro- perty that they had the church of Inverleithen " in rectoria," which used to be worth, yearly, £26 13s. 4d, and had annexed thereto an annual pension which they held "in vicaria " (£). In Bagimont's Roll there is " vicaria de Inver- leithen," lying without the church of Glasgow and in the deanery of Peebles, valued at £6 13s. 4d. William, the ancient pastor of Inverleithen, was one of the witnesses to a charter of William Morville, the constable of Scotland, from 1189 to 1196 a.d. (/). The village of Inverleithen, with the circum- jacent district, continued a part of the royal demesne during the reign of Alex- ander II. (m). We thus perceive that Malcolm IV. merely granted to the monks of Melrose the church of Inverleithen, without giving the town the common of pasture belonging to it or the circumjacent territory. In 1674 the smaller or northern part of the parish of Kaillie was annexed to Inverleithen, as we have seen. Inverleithen is now a large populous market town, with a fair on the 14th of October, and it is daily growing still larger from the intro- duction of a woollen manufacture here, and the discovery of a mineral spring in its vicinity. [The Parish Church, erected in 1870, has 815 communicants ; stipend, £387. The Free Church has 208 members. A TJ.P. Church has 280 members. There is also a Roman Catholic Church]. The parish of Eddleston takes its name from the hamlet wherein stands the church. The name of this district can only be ascertained from its singular changes, as we trace them in the chartularies. During the British times this district bore the name of Pentiacob, which, however corrupted, shows plainly its British original Before the year 1170 Pentiacob had been changed to (A) Chart. Kelso, No. 20. Lord Hailes takes notice of this grant of Malcolm IV., and the cause of it. (i) lb., 278. (£) Id. (Z) Chart. Glasgow, 165. (m) Chart. Newbotle, No. 130. The king, in the precept which he then issued to Gilbert Fraser, the sheriff of Traquair, reserved to himself the common of pasture, which was appurtenant to his village of Inverleithen. Id. (n) It was found by the Inquisitio of Earl David in 1116 a.d., that Pentiacob had belonged of old to the church of Glasgow. Gibson's Glasg. App. Pent-y-achub, in the British, would 948 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VII.— Peebles-shire. the more obvious appellation of Gillemorestun, from some person of Scoto-Irish descent having fixed his residence here (o). Engelram, the bishop of Glasgow, from 1164 to 1174, gave in firm, "ad firmam," to Richard Morville, the constable, the lands of Gillemorestun, " que olim vocabatur Penjaccob," with the pertinents, except the church, to hold of the church of Glasgow for fifteen years from Pentecost 1170 a.d. The bishop rented this land to the constable in consideration of three hundred marks, Morville ' making oath on the gospels at the altar that he or his successors would faithfully return the demised premises at the end of the term to the bishop or his successors (p). Richard Morville forgot his promise and disregarded his oath. He granted the bishop's lands to Eadulfe, the son of Uchtred, and his heirs, tor the service of one knight (q). Yet was this grant confirmed by William Morville, the constable, who succeeded his father, Richard, in 1189 (r). Eadulfe considered this district so much his own that he changed the name of it from Gillemorestun to Edulfestun, which was afterwards softened into Edulestun, and at length corrupted into Eddlestown. In this manner, then, was the British name, by successive changes, which had some meaning, converted into an appellation that has none. In this transaction, thus authenticated by record, we see at once the profligacy and the power of the Morvilles, who transmitted their high office of constable to their female heirs, who possessed the delicacy of feeling which was wanting in them. The last of the Morvilles died in 1196 a.d. (s). After a long deprivation of this property by the power of Richard Morville, this ancient possession was honourably restored to William, the bishop of Glasgow, by Elene, the daughter of Alan, Lord of Galloway, the descendant and heiress of the Morvilles (t). William de Bondington, by whose address signify the hollow of protection, or deliverance ; Pen-ti-achob would denote the chief house of protection, or deliverance. Whatever there may be in these meanings, it is certain that the prefix is either the British Fen, which, signifying "a head or summit, is not unfrequent, as we have seen, in the southern topography of North-Britain, or it is the British Pant, signifying a hollow, or vale. (o) By the name of Gilnwrestun, this parish was confirmed to the bishop of Glasgow by successive Popes, from 1170 to 1186 a.d. Chart. Glasg., 73-81-91-103. (p) Chart. Glasgow, 161. (?) lb., 165. Richard Morville granted this land to Edulfe, in fee, by the name of Gillemorestun " que antiquitus vocabatur Penjacub." Id. (r) Id. (s) Chron. Melrose, 180 ; " Obiit William Morville." (t) The virtuous Elene was the grand-daughter of Roland, and the daughter of AUan, the Lord of Galloway, by Elene Morville, who succeeded, upon the death of William, her brother, in 1196, to the Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.} Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 949 or influence, this estate was re-annexed to his see, was originally one of the clerks of the chanceiy, became afterward rector of Eddleston, which was one of the prebends of Glasgow, archdeacon of Lothian, chancellor of Scotland in 1231, bishop of Glasgow in 1232, and he died in 1258 (u). Richard de Boulden, the parson of the church of Eddleston, swore fealty to Edward I., at Berwick, on the 28th of August 1296 (x). In Bagimont's Roll there is, among the churches of the chapter of Glasgow, " rectoria de Edelston," which was valued at £13 6s. 8d. In a taxation of the prebends of the Church of Glasgow in 1401, Eddleston is rated at £3 (y). The present church of Eddleston seems to have been built at the end of the sixteenth century, at least, some of the pews within it are marked in 1600 A. d. (z). A new village has been built at this kirk-town, which enjoys the benefit of a yearly fair on the 12th of September (a). [The Parish Church of 1829 has 227 communicants; stipend, £370.] The united parish of Lyxe and Megget, was formed in 1621 by the junction of two distinct parishes together, however inconvenient to the parishioners, though convenient to the proprietors. This annexation is another illustration of the modern doctrine, how needless numerous churches are to the Christian dispensation. There is no church in Megget (b). This fact carries that doctrine to the full length of considering it as unessential to this dispensation to have any visible church. The district of Lyne derived its British name from the riveret Lyne. The church and kirktown stand on the eastern side of it, rather more than a mile before its influx into the Tweed. This church was originally a chapel subordinate to the mother church of Stobo (c). This chaplainry of property and offices of the Morvilles ; and she had been the wife of Eoger de Quincy, the Earl of Albemarle. The release of Elene is recorded in the Chartulary of Glasgow, 251 ; and she therein stated the history of this transaction. John de Balliol, who married Dervorgilla, the daughter of Allan, Lord of Galloway, and William de Tore, the son of Eoger de Quincey, both confirmed the release of Elene, and both recite the whole transaction. Ib., 255-257. (w) Chron. Melrose, 222 ; Keith, 141-2, has misstated the time of his decease. The bishop, after he had regained his right, granted to Mariota, the daughter of Samuel, an annuity of ten marks, " de flrma manerii nostri de Edulvestun, percipienda per manum commerarii nostri." Chart. Glas., 273. This manor of Eddleston was of old very extensive, as it comprehended Tor, which has been changed to Windiefrui-s, and which is two miles below, on the water of Eddleston. Ib., 449. (x) Prynne, iii. 662. (y) Chart. Glasgow, 490. (?) Stat. Acco., xvii., 189. (a) It had formerly another fair on Tuesday before the 12th of July, but this is now held at Peebles. The Eev. Charles Findlater's MS. Note on the Companion, 38. (b) The minister says he preaches in some farm-house by rotation. Stat. Acco., xii., 559. (c) At the end of the 12th century, a dispute was agitated between Eobert, the son of David de 4 6 0 950 An ACCOUNT [Oh. Til.— Peebles-shire. Lyne afterwards became a rectory ; and in Bagimont's Roll, we may see the " rectoria de Lyne," in the deanery of Peebles, valued at £4. The minister talks of this ancient church having once been a popish chapel, which, by a thorough repair, in late times, has been purified from its ancient grossness (d). The parish of Megget obviously derived its name from the river Megget, that in the eastern extremity of the parish there is the ruin of a church, which is surrounded by a cemetery that is still used by those who regard the monu- ments of their fathers with veneration ; and as there is no other remain of any ecclesiastical edifice, we may easily suppose this to be the ancient church of Megget (e). [The Parish Church at Lyne has 63 communicants ; stipend, £210. There is a Chapel of Ease at Megget.] The name of the parish of Newlands refers to the era when the lands lying around the kirk-town were first brought into cultivation by Scoto-Saxon hands. At the end of the thirteenth century, the church of Newlands, in Tweeddale, belonged to the monks of Dunfermline (/). In Bagimont's Roll, there is the " rectoria de Newlands," in the deanery of Peebles, valued at £16. This high valuation shows that it was then deemed of great value and was independent of the monks of Dunfermline. Newlands church is an ancient structure which is surrounded by a few lofty trees (g). In this parish there is a congre- Lyne, and Walter his uncle, on the one part, and Gregory, the parson of Stoho, on the other, with regard to the chapel of Lyne. The point was carried before the Pope, who remitted it to John, the bishop of Candida Casa ; and he giving judgment in favour of the parson of Stobo, the adverse party resigned his pretensions to the parson and diocesan, the bishop of Glasgow. Chart. Glasg., 145. (d) Stat. Acco., xii., 559. Tradition relates that the church of Lyne was built by Randolph, the great Earl of Murray, who is said, by the same tradition, to have had a house within the ramparts of the Roman camp, which have the name of Randalls Walls. Companion to the Map, 69. The silence of Robertson's Index is sufficient to show that the great Earl of Murray never had any property in Peebles-shire ; so little is tradition, in this assertion, to be relied on. The pulpit of this church, whoever built it, is said to be a remarkable piece of mechanism, which was imported from Holland in 1644 by Lady Tester, whose pew bears the same date. The pew of the family of Vetch is dated in 1606. Ib., 63. (e) Companion, 65. An ancient tombstone was dug up in this cemetery, with the arms of the Cockburns engraved on it. We may easily believe this to have been the stone of one of the Cockburns of Henderland. (/) Malcolm's MS. Collection, from the Chart, of Dunfermline. (g) Companion, 73. David II. granted to William Douglas the lands of Kilbothock and Newlands, on the resignation of John Graham of Dalkeith. Robertson's Index, 54. Robert II. gave to James Douglas of Dalkeith the baronies of Kilbothock and Newlands, on the resignation of James Douglas, his father. Ib., 121. Regist. Rob. II. Rot., v. 73. In this parish and barony, Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] Of NOKTH-BRITAIN. 951 gation of Seceders of Relief, with a Meeting-house, and their minister of Relief (h). [The Parish Church was rebuilt in 1838 ; communicants 218 ; stipend £351. A U.P. Church has 87 members.] The name of Linton parish is derived from that of the kirk-town ; and the town derived its Celtic appellation from the riveret Lyne or Lyn. The annexa- tion of the Anglo-Saxon tun to the name of the Lyn, shows that a dwelling or hamlet was first erected here by Scoto-Saxon hands, on the declivity of a hill which overlooks the stream. As early as the reign of David I., and during several centuries afterward, this place was called Linton-Roderick. This ad- junct is no doubt obtained from the name of some proprietor of old, to dis- tinguish it from other Lintons. During David's reign, the church of Linton- Roderick and half a carucate of land, were granted to the monks of Kelso by Richard Cumin, who was then the lord of the manor (i). This grant was con- firmed by Malcolm IY. and William his successor, and by several bishops of Glasgow, the diocesans (k). In 1160, William de Somerville gave to the church of Glasgow three acres of land, " in villa de Lintun, in frank- almoyne, with the tithes (/). In Bagimont's Roll, there is the " vicaria de Lyntoun," which is valued at £2 13s. 4d., in the deanery of Peebles. When the old church of Linton was pulled down in 1782, it appeared to have been built with stones of an older fabric (in). In the thirteenth century, a chaplainry, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was established at Inglistown, in the south-west corner of Linton parish {n). There was of old a chapel attached to an hospital, on Lyne water, in this parish, at a place called from it Chapel hill. The seceders the regent Morton built the Drochel-Castle, which was not quite finished when he expiated, under the axe, his many crimes. Stat. Acco., i. 152. The patronage of Newlands, which had been confirmed to Morton in 1564, was afterward acquired by the Douglases of Queensberry ; and William, Duke of Queensberry, transferred this church, with many others in this shire, to his second son, the Earl of March. (h) Stat. Acco., xxi. 390. (t) Chart. Kelso, 273. (£) lb., 2-12-278-433. In an estimate which the monks of Kelso formed, during Robert I.'s reign, they valued the church of Linton-Roderick, which they held in rectoria, at 40 marks, its usual worth. Ib. 31. The monks enjoyed the revenues of this rectory till the Reformation, while the cure was served by a vicar. Chart. Glasg., 199. (Z) Chart. Glasg., 65. Ernald, the bishop of St. Andrews from 1158 to 1163, was a witness to this grant. Id. In 1256 Richard, the vicar of Peebles, is mentioned as having been of late the vicar of Linton. Ib., 199. Stat. Acco., i. 146. There was found in the middle of the walls a sculptured stone with a crucifix erect, supported by a pair of woolshears, lying across beneath ; but there was no motto. Id. (/i) Chart. Glasgow, 445. 952 An ACCOUNT [Ch. Nil.— Peebles-shin have now a meeting-house at Linton (o). Robert II. granted to James Douglas of Dalkeith, the baronies of Kilbothock, and Newlands, and Linton -Rotheryk, in Peebles-shire, on the resignation of James Douglas, his father (p). This grant evinces that this Linton, as well as Linton in Teviotdale, bore the adjunct of Rotheryk, the name of some former possessor. Linton is a market town and a burgh of regality, having the Earl of March for its superior, and having annual fairs every Wednesday in June and July (q). Pennecuick, in his poetical address to the Prince of Orange in 1687, from the town of Lintown, calls it the submetropolitan of Tweeddale (r). [The Parish Church has 300 communicants ; stipend, £316. A U.P. Church has 110 members. There is also one Episcopal Church dedicated to St. Mungo.] The name of the parish of Kirkurd was formed by prefixing the Scoto-Saxon kirk, the cyrk of the Anglo-Saxons, to Urd, the Celtic name of the place (s). The Ord, Urd, and Aird, in the Gaelic, signifies an eminence or height, whereof there are several in the manor of Urd (t) ; and hence, the Ord-hill of Caith- ness, the Ordeful hill, the Orctewhish in Banffshire. Urd or Ord was of old the name of a large manor, which appears to have been co-extensive with the whole parish of Kirkurd (u). In this district there are some other names of places, which are formed in the same manner from the same root, such as Loch- U rd, Lady- U rd, Nether- U rd. The Inquisitio of Earl David in 1116 A.D., found that there belonged to the bishopric of Glasgow, Kerc-ayrd, one carucate of land and a church. The church of Ord was confirmed to the bishops of Glasgow by the bulls of Pope Alexander in 1170 and 1178, and by the bulls of Lucius and Urban in 1181 and 1186 (x). The church of Ord was soon after given to the hospital of Soltre by -the bishop of Glasgow, (o) Companion, 57. In 1792 there were in Linton parish 376 seceders, amounting to 2\ of the whole parishioners. Stat. Acco., i. 144. (p) Eobertson's Index, 121 ; Hay's Vindication, 24. ! (q) Description, 11; Companion, 56. The market cross of Linton was erected in 1660 by one Gifford, a weaver, to perpetuate the memory of his wife and five children ; but it is now much decayed. Id. (r) See his Poems, subjoined to his Description of Tweeddale, 1. The Duke of Queensberry was then baronial lord of Linton. They petition the king to cause the duke " to causey their street from end," and " to put a clock upon their steeple." This poetical petition contains other circumstances which displays the local manners of that "ill-favoured age." (s) Davis and Owen. (t) The Uird, indeed, is the oblique case of Urd, and assumes this form of Uird in composition ; as, Tom-an-uird, the name of a height in Strathspey ; and even in Scoto-Saxon compounds we always find the same word spelt Urd, when coupled with a prefix ; but when it stands substantively, it is generally found in the form of Ord. (u) Chart. Glasgow, 185. (x) lb., 73-81-91-105. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] Of NOETH-BE IT AIN. 953 " in proprios usus." In 1231, Walter, the bishop of Glasgow, confnmed the grant of his predecessor (a). As the church of Kirlcurd thus became, by so many giants, the property of the hospital of Soltre, it was not included in Bagimont's Tax Roll. Walter Murdak granted some lands to the monks of Paisley, within the manor of Ord, which was confirmed by a bull of Honorius, about the year 1226 (6) ; and these lands were included in the regality, which comprehended the whole property of the monks of Paisley, and which was granted by Robert III. in 1396, and confirmed by James III. in 1451 (c). Robert I. granted to John Craik the half of the barony of U rde, which he had obtained in marriage of Edward Cockburn (d). It seems to have come after- ward into the possession of the Scotts (e). Robert II. granted to Peter Cock- burn the kirk-land of Kirkhuird in Peebles-shire (f). The church of Kirkurd, which had been granted to the hospital of Soltre, continued with it till 1462, when Mary of Guelder transferred it to the Trinity Church of Edinburgh, on condition that the sacrist of the collegiate Church of the Trinity should keep in repair the church of Kirkurk (g). A new church for this parish was built in 1766, about half a mile westward from the old fabric, which stood within the domain of Kirkurd. But the ancient burying-ground continues to be used by those parishioners who reverence the tombs of their fathers (h). [The Parish Church has 112 communicants ; stipend £213.] The name of the parish of Stobo was written in the charters of the twelfth and thirteen centuries, Stobhou. In a few instances, it is variously written Stobeho, Stubho, and Stobhope (i). In the Scoto-Saxon, Stob-how means the Stob-hollow, the hollow where stobs or stubs abound ; the stob of the Scottish people being the same as the stub of the English, and signifying equally a stump of heath or other brush- wood (k). Hoiv is the common pronunciation of (a) Chai't. Soltre, No. 40. The grant of the church of Ord was confirmed also by William, the bishop of Glasgow ; and in 1255 was again confirmed by William de Bondington, the bishop of Glasgow, who recovered Eddleston, as we have seen. Ib., 39 — 2. (b) Chart. Paisley, No. 149. (c) lb., No. 189 ; MS. Monast. Scotise, 14. (d) Bobertson's Index, 24. (e) In 1390 Kobert II. granted to Sir Walter Scott of Buccleuch, to hold this barony of Kirkurd in blench, instead of ward. Dougl. Peerage, 100. (/*) lb., 124. (g) The foundation charter, which corrects Keith, 289. (h) Stat. Acco., x. 183. The manse and offices were built near the new church in 1788. Id. (z) Chart. Glasgow throughout. (£) See Stybbe, in Somner and Lye ; and Stobbe, in Kilian. There are a Stobbo-cleugh and a Stobbo-hill in Dumfries-shire ; and Stob is a compound in many names, both in Scotland and England. 954 An ACCOUNT Ch. VII. — Peebles-shire. the Anglo-Saxon Hoi, cavus (I), the final (1) being frequently pronounced as (w). A Celtic etymologist might be ambitious of deriving the name of this parish from the Gaelic Stua-both, signifying the hut or cottage on the ridge. There is indeed, an ancient tower, which stands on the skirt of a hill near the mansion house of the manor ; but this elevation does not accord with the Gaelic Stau, which properly signifies a pinnacle or towering ridge. The Scoto- Saxon derivation is the most natural. The termination how applies, no doubt, to the hollow or small valley through which runs Weston burn, and the upper part of this hollow is called Stobo-hopes, according to the usual application of this term in the south of Scotland, to a dingle without a thoroughfare (m). Both the church and the manor of Stobo belonged to the diocese of Glasgow, at the epoch of Earl David's Inquisitio, and they were both confirmed to that see by several bulls of successive popes, in the twelfth century (n). The rectory of Stobo was converted into a prebend of Glasgow ; and of all the prebends in Tweeddale, Stobo was the most valuable (o). In Bagimont's Roll, there is the " rectoria de Stobo," which is rated at £26 13s. 4d. ; and which is equal to the Archdeaconry of Glasgow, whereto belonged the rectory of Peebles, and there is also in that famous tax roll the " vicaria de Stobo," in the deanery of Peebles, that is rated at £6 13s. 4d. In a Taxatio of the prebends of Glasgow in 1401, Stobo and Peebles are both equally rated at £5 (p). The church of Stobo is said to be a Gothic building of five centuries erection, and the remains of a font and other appurtenances of an ancient church, still re- main within it, to the indignant observation of reformed eyes (q). Michael de Dunde, the parson of Stubbehok swore fealty to Edward I., at Berwick, on the 28th of August 1296, when the oaths of smaller men were sought for (r). The rights to the manor of Stobo have been as fiercely contested as the sovereignty of Scotland. Between Walter, the bishop of Glasgow, from 1208 (I) Somner. (m) In Kincardineshire there is a well-known vale which traverses it from south to north, and which is called the How of the Mearns. (n) Chart. Glasgow, 73-103. (o) Stobo is mentioned in 1313 as a prebend. Rym., iii. 785. This rectory and prebend were composed, by the annexation of the churches of Dawick, of Upper and Lower Drummelzier, and Broughton ; and all these were called the pendicles of Stobo, which was alone called the prebend. The minister, indeed, includes Glenholm parish, as one of the pendicles of Stobo ; but it is clear, from Bagimont's Roll, that Glenholm was an independent rectory. Stat. Acco., iii. 330. (p) Chart. Glasgow, 490. (q) Companion to the Map, 95 ; Stat. Acco., iii. 329. (r) Prynne, iii. 662. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 955 to 1232, and Jordan de Currokes, about the lands of Stobo, there was a con- troversy, which was settled under the arbitration of Walter Olifard, the younger, who was justiciary of Lothian, by the bishop paying his adversary £100 sterling, and this settlement was established by a charter from the justiciary, testifying the fact (r). There was soon after a dispute about the boundaries of Stobo, Hoprewe and Ord, which were finally fixed before eight- and-twenty neighbours (s), and this settlement was confirmed in 1223 by a charter of Alexander II. (t). There was between William, the bishop of Glas- gow, from 1233 to 1258, and Mariota, the daughter of Samuel, another contest about the lands of Stobo, which was settled by Gilbert Fraser, the sheriff of Traquair, in pursuance of the king's precept. The bishop again purchased his adversary's claim. In consideration of an annuity of ten marks out of the manor of Eddleston, Mariota came into the sheriff's court and acknowledged the bishop's right to the manor of Stobo (x). The church of Lyne parish, which adjoins Stobo parish on the east, was a chapel belonging to the mother church of Stobo, at the end of the twelfth century (y). The church of Broughton parish, which also adjoins Stobo parish on the west, was likewise a chapel be- longing to the church of Stobo, in the same age (z). That portion of Stobo parish which lies on the south-east side of the Tweed, was annexed to it in 1742, when the old parish of Dawick was suppressed, and part of it was annexed to Stobo, and another portion of it to Drummelzier (a). [The Parish Church has 106 communicants ; stipend £243. The church of Manor was of old merely a chapel of the rectory of Peebles. The church of Peebles, " cum capella de Maineur," was confirmed to the bishop of Glasgow by Pope Urban, in 1181 (b). Thus connected, the rectory of the one and the chaplainry of the other, seem to have adhered to each other. The rectory of Peebles, and Manor, formed the prebend of the archdeacon of Glas- gow, and were rated together in Bagimont's Roll, at the high valuation of £26 13s. 4d. In the Taxatio of the prebends of Glasgow in 1401, Peebles and Manor are rated each at £5 (c). The old church of Manor, which was called St. Gordian's kirk, stood four miles distant from the present church, that was itself built about the middle of the seventeenth century (d). Yet St. Gordian's (r) Chart. Glasgow, 171. (s) lb., 183. (t) lb., 238. («) lb., 273-5. (x) lb., 279. (y) lb... 145. (z) lb., 53. (a) Stat. Acco., iii. 329. (J) Chart of Glasgow, 104. (c) lb., 490. (d) Stat. Acco. iii. 387. Near Manorhead stood that St. Gordian's kirk, whereof nothing is now 956 An ACCOUNT [Oh. VEL— Peeblesshire. chapel seems not to have been the parish church. About a mile and a half south-west from the present kirk-town and church of Manor, there is a hamlet called Manortown, and a little southward there is an old fortalice on the summit of a round hill, which is named from the strength Castle hill. This was, no doubt, the baronial residence of the lord of the manor, and near it must have stood of old the chapel of Manor. The present kirk-town is but a lonely hamlet, consisting of the church, the manse, the school-house, the mill, and a few cottages. On the south-west of it at no great distance, there still remains a pedestal, which is called the Font-st one, and is absurdly supposed, by Arm- strong, not to be what the name imports it to have been, but the support of a cross, and this pedestal no doubt, supported the font of the ancient church of Manor. Alexander III. granted to William Biddebie the lands of Manor in Peebles -shire, which were confirmed by Robert I. (ey A grant of Alexander to John Biddebie of the lands of Manner, was also confirmed by the same king {/). Robert I. granted the manor of Mener, " in valle de Twede," to Adam Marshall ((/), and Robert granted to Alexander Biddebie the barony of Mener, upon the resignation in parliament of Ade Marshal (A). Robert III. granted to Sir William Inglis the barony of Maner, to hold blench of the crown ; in consideration of the slaughter of Thomas Struther, an Englishman, in single combat, reserving however, to Sir William Gladstanes, the lands which he possessed in the same barony with the old superiority (i). [The Parish Church, rebuilt in 1873-74, has 154 communicants ; stipend, £314. The parish of Deummelziee took its singular name from the kirk-town, which stands on a ridge. Drym in the British, and Druim in the Irish, both signify a ridge, and the prefix Drum, alludes, no doubt, to the ridge on the north end whereof may be seen the ruins of Drummelzier castle. The affix millier is not so easily explained. Drum-'eallur in the Irish would signify, indeed, the ridge of earth, or the earthen ridge (k). The whole word is probably the British Drym-meiliaur, signifying the dwelling on, or at the ridge (I), and the Scoto-Irish, who succeeded the Britons here, finding such a word analogous to their own, may have contributed by their usage to the continuance of the to be seen but tbe rubbish and ruins. Description, 19. In Newholmhope is the scarce discernible remains of St. Gorgham's chapel, saith Armstrong, the surveyor. Companion, 70. In the Lives of the Saints, 1636, p. 272-5, we may see that Gordian was martyred by the apostate Julian, on the 10th of May, 213 a.d. How he came to be recollected here so strongly as to have a chapel dedicated to him in Newholmhope, I know not. (e) Eobertson's Index, 24. (/) Id. ( g ) Id. (h) lb., 24-28. (f) lb., 137. (k) See Tea/lur, in Shaw. The oblique case is Theallur, the th being quiescent (I) See Owen's W. Diet. Sect, VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History, .] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 957 original term which was so descriptive of the thing. The present parish is composed of the old district of Lower-Drummelzier, and of the southern half of the old parish of Dawick, which was annexed to it in 1742 (m). Before the Reformation, Drummelzier was a vicarage of the rectory of Stobo. The Parish Church of Drummelzier stands on Powsail rivulet which falls into the Tweed, a little below, near the kindred grave of the wizard Merlin. Of the church Grose has preserved the remembrance in his antiquities (n). At Kingledoors, in the upper part of this parish, there was formerly a chapel dedicated to St. Cuthbert, the early evangelist of Tweedside. During the reign of Alexander III., Symon Fraser, the father, who died in 1291, granted to the monks of Melrose the lands of South-Kingledoors, with the chapel of St. Cuthbert and the lands of Hopcarshire (o). Dawick is the abbreviated pronunciation of Dalwick, which, in the Anglo-Saxon, signifies the divelling in the dale. There are still two hamlets named East-Dawick and West-Dawick in the old parish, which lay along the south-east side of the Tweed. Before the Reformation the church of Dawick was a vicarage of Stobo. The parish of Dawick was sup- pressed, as we have seen, in 1742, when the greater part of it was annexed to Drummelzier (p). The ruins of Dawick church stood on Scrape Burn, about a quarter of a mile southward of New-Posso (q). [The Parish Church has 72 communicants ; stipend, £270.] Tweedsmuir parish derived its name from the nature of the country which it comprehends, being the moorish district along the heights from which the Tweed and its tributary streams descend (s). This parish was formerly called Upper-Drummelzier ; and before the Reformation it was a vicarage of Stobo, which, as a mother church and a prebend of the cathedral of Glasgow, had so many dependencies. The two Drummelziers were connected with each other till 1643, when the present parish of Tweedsmuir was established. The church was erected in 1648, on a small mount called Quarter-know, which, as tradition (m) On November 1728, the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale took under consideration a proposal for dismembering the parish of Dawick, which had been vacant nine years, and annexing it to Lyne and Stobo, because of the small number of parishioners and lowness of the stipend ; but the motion was rejected, and the presbytery of Peebles was appointed to settle a minister ; yet, with instructions to use all moderate methods to gain the cordial consent of Sir James Naysmyth, the heritor of that parish. Edin. Courant, 2144. (n) See the view in his Antiq. Scot., ii. 224. (o) Officers of State, 270 ; but Crawfurd has mistakingly put Kelso, for Melrose. This grant was confirmed by Sir Symon Fraser, the son. Ib., 271. (p) Companion, 31 ; Stat. Acco., iii. 329. (q) Companion, 34. (s) From Somner, we may learn that Mor signifies both a hill and a heath. The Scottish form of moor is muir. 4 6 D 958 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VIL— -Peebles-shire. relates, was of old a place of Druid worship (t). A drawing of this modern church may be seen in Grose's Antiquities (u). In the centre of this parish there was formerly a chapel near Hawkshaw, on Fruid water, with its accom- panying cemetery, which both remain, the one in ruins and the other in use (x). Such, then, are the appropriate notices of the twelve parishes which constitute the present presbytery of Peebles. [The Parish Church of 1874-75 has 103 communicants ; stipend, £378.] In 1692, four parishes, Glenholm, Kilbucho, Skirling and Broughton, were torn from the side of Peebles and conjoined to the presbytery of Biggar. Glenholm parish consists of a vale which is nearly seven miles long and two miles broad, and which is drained by Holms water ; the original name of the stream being concealed in the Scoto-Saxon innovation. The present appellation was appropriated by the incomers, who did not know the significance of the original, and called it Holm, or Holms Water, from the number of flats along its banks (y). The church of Glenholm is supposed to have been a vicarage of Stobo (z) ; but there is reason for suspecting the truth of this intimation. For Glenholm, in the deanery of Peebles, appears in Bagimont's Boll as an independent rectory ; and it is therein rated at £4. None of the churches which belonged to the rector of Stobo, are rated in Bagimont's Taxation. The parish church of Glenholm was rebuilt in 1775 (a). In the upper part of Glen- holm, there was formerly a chapel at a place called Chapelgill. [In 1804, this parish was united with Kilbucho to Broughton.] The name of the parish of Kilbucho, which has undergone successive corrup- tions, was originally applied to a chapel, that was dedicated in early times to St. Bega (6). To the name of the saint, whoever the holy person were, the Scoto-Irish Cil, signifying a church or a chapel, was prefixed. In the charters of the twelfth century, the name of this parish was written Kil-beckhoc. In sub- (t) Companion, 104; Stat. Acco., viii., 86-8. (w) Vol. ii., 224. (x) About the year 1775, a bust of General Monk is said to have been discovered here. Com- panion, 107. Yet, how the bust of such a man could have been deposited in such a place, it is not easy to conjecture. (y) Stat. Acco., iv. 429. Holm, isle; Holmur, Islandic ; Holme, Swedish; and Holm, in the ancient Saxon, a river islet, a flat covered with herbage and surrounded with water. Bullet, in vo - Holm. (z) Stat. Acco., iv., 429; Hi., 321. (a) Companion, 43. (b) The church of Kilbucho was called of old St. Bez, saith Doctor Pennecuick. Description, 28. St. Bez is the familiar name of St. Bega. Tradition has preserved in this parish many particulars of this memorable saint. Stat. Acco., iv. 344. The church of Kilbucho was dedicated to St. Bede, saith Armstrong mistakingly ; and a spring of pure water in the vicinity of it still retains the same name. Companion to the Map, 30. For St, Bega, a female saint, from the island of saints, see Leland's Col., t. iii. 39 ; Dugdale's Monast., i. 395. Her house was at St, Bees, in Cumberland, a cell of St, Mary of York. But there was also a female St, Bega in Scotland, who performed wonders at Kilbeg, according to Dempster's Menologium, 6th September. Sect, VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 959 sequent writings the name was written Kil-bochoc, Kil-bocho, Kil-bucho, and sometimes Kirk-bucho. Cospatric, hermit of Kylbethoc and Gillebert, the parson of Kylbethoc, were present as witnesses to the settlement of the marches of Stobo, Hopreu, and Ord (c). In Bagimont's roll the " rectoria cum vicaria de Kil-bocho," in the deanery of Peebles, were rated at £8. This continued a rectory from the twelfth century to the Reformation, and the patronage appears to have belonged to the lord of the manor. At the accession of Robert L, the manor of Kilbethoc belonged to the Grahames of Dalkeith and Abercorn, from whom it passed to the Douglases, under David II., who granted the lands of Kilbethoc and Newlands to William Douglas on the resignation of John Grahame of Dalkeith (d). Robert II. granted to James Douglas of Dalkeith the baronies of Kilbothoc and Newlands and Linton, on the resignation of James Douglas, his father (e). There is a charter of Francis and Mary, stating the sale of the barony of Kilbucho by Malcolm, Lord Fleming, to James, Earl of Morton, with a right of redemption ; and trans- ferring this right of redemption from Malcolm to John, Lord Fleming (/). [In 1804 this parish was united to Broughton.] The parish of Skirling derives its name from the kirk-town, and the village takes its appellation from the rivulet which runs through it, and drives a mill below. In several charters of the fourteenth century the name is written Skrawlyne and Scraline (g). In Pont's map of this shire the name is printed Skarlin (h) ; and Armstrong, in his new map, calls it Scarline (i). This sort of metathesis is common in the topography of North-Britain ; so we have Stirling for Strivelin, and Crail for Caril. If Skrawline be considered as the original name, it may be derived from the British Ysgraw-lyn, signifying the rivulet or the pool which is apt to form a scum or crust (k) ; or Sgrai-line, in the Gaelic, would signify the rivulet having green-swarded banks (1). If (c) Chart. Glasgow, 135-6. Gamelin, the parson of Kylbethoc, and Gilbert, the parson of Kylbethoc, are mentioned in a charter during the thirteenth century. Ib., 445. (d) Robertson's Index, 54 ; Regist. Rob. II. Rot., v. 75. In October 1564, the well-known chancellor, Earl of Morton, obtained a confirmation of Kilbucho, with the advowson of the church and other estates. Pari. Rec, 763. (e) lb., 121 ; Hay's Vindication, 24. (/) This charter was dated at Paris, the 16th January, 1558. Diplom. Scotia, pi. 68. During the reign of Charles I., the barony of Kilbucho, with the patronage of the church, was acquired by John Dickson ; and they both continue to belong to his descendant. In June 1640, John Dickson obtained from Parliament a ratification of the lands of Hartree and Kilbucho, with the patronage of the church and the lease of the tithes thereof, with the annuity. Unprinted Act. (g) Robertson's Index. (h) In Blaeu's Atlas Scotiae. (t) Map of Peebles-shire. (7c) Owen's W. Diet. (Z) On the margin of the rivulet, within the village, there is a flat green, of about an acre and a half, which the houses seem to inclose in a semicircular form ; yet, whether all these existed in early times may admit of a doubt. 960 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VII. — Peebles-shire. Scarlin be considered as the original name, then the derivation might be from the British Ysgar-lyn, the dividing rivulet. The brook, in fact, runs through the middle of the present straggling village of Skirling ; and it is more than probable that the British hamlet here stood, in a similar manner, on either side of the rivulet or lyn. In Bagimont's Roll there are "rectoria cum vicaria de Scralyne " in the deanery of Peebles rated at £6 13s. 4d. Robert L granted to John Monfode the barony of Skraivline, with the advowson of the church (m). Margaret Monfode granted an annuity of two marks sterling out of the lands of Scraline to a chaplain in the church of Dunmanyn, and this gift was confirmed by David II. in 1362 (n). The church of Skirling was rebuilt in 1720. The manse was built in 1636, and rebuilt in 1725 (o). Skirling is a populous village, having two annual fairs, on the first Wednesday after the 11th of June and the 15th of September (p). [The Parish Church has 85 communicants ; stipend, £342. There is also a Free Church, with 99 members.] The parish of Broughton took its name from the kirk-town, and the name of the village in its present form might be derived from the Anglo-Saxon Burgh, which, by a familiar change, is pronounced Br ugh, signifying a fortlet, and tun, a dwelling. But in the charter of Radulph Nanus, which was granted in the period between 1174 and 1180 a.d., the name of this hamlet was written re- peatedly Broctun, whereof Broughton is doubtless a corruption. Broc, in the British, Gaelic, and Anglo-Saxon, means a badger or gray ; so Broc-tun would signify badger town. Yet may it be derived from the Anglo-Saxon Bi 'ora, rivus, rivulus, whence the English brook, and tun, a dwelling. Now, the hamlet and church of Broughton are, in fact, situated on a brook. It is, however, probable that the name of the village may have derived its origin from some person called Broc, whose tun or residence it was of old ; and there have been always persons of this name in North-Britain (q). Radulph Nanus gave to the chapel of Brortun half a carucate of land, in Brortun, in franh-almoyne, with a toft, a croft, and common of pasture, with other ease- ments to such lands belonging ; and he conceded to the see of Glasgow that (m) Robertson's Index, 24. («) lb., 72. (o) Stat. Acco., iii. 254. (p) Companion, 94. On the 26th of March, 1567, the castle of Edinburgh was surrendered to Cockburn of Skirling, for the queen. The same day a tempest of wind blew away the tail of the weathercock on the steeple of Edinburgh. This, saith Birrel, Diary 7, fulfilled the old prophecy : " Quhen Skirling sail be captain, The cock sail want his tailL'' We have seen that another prophecy was accomplished, when Skirling house was blown up, by order of the regent Murray, on the 12th of June 1568. (q) We must remember, however, that there is a parish in Linlithgowshire called Stra-broc, which is undoubtedly a Gaelic name, signifying the vale of brocs. Sect. VIII.— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 961 the chapel of Broctun should appertain as a vicarage to the mother church of Stobo, and this grant Rudulph, with his son Richard, confirmed by their oaths before Joceline, the bishop of Glasgow, and other witnesses, so solemn were the grants of those religious times (r). Broctun continued till the Reformation a vicarage of Stobo. David II. confirmed a grant by Edward Hadden to his wife, of the lands of Brockton, in Peebles-shire (t). Robert, the Duke of Albany, granted to John de Hawden the lands of Brochton, in Peebles-shire, with other estates in Roxburghshire, on the resignation of William de Hawden, his father (w). The barony of Broughton, saith Armstrong, comprehends the whole parish except Burnetland (x). The village of Broughton was rebuilt in a handsome manner by its liberal proprietor, the late James Dickson, and it has the benefit of an yearly fair (y). Thus much, then, with regard to the sixteen parishes of this shire, which are comprehended in the two presbyteries of Biggar and Peebles. [The Parish Church (1804) has 275 communicants; stipend, £400. The parishes of Kilbuchoand Glenholm were conjoined with Broughton in 1804. A Fre% Church at Broughton village has 137 members]. There is immediately subjoined, as a useful supplement, a Tabular State, containing some instructive particulars of each parish ; and to all those intima- tions may be additionally mentioned some other notices of a parochial sort. A small part of Inverleithen parish lies in Selkirkshire (z). The stipends of the whole parishes in Peebles-shire were augmented previous to 1798, except those of Kirkurd and Newlands. The annual value of the glebes were included in the estimate of the stipends of the whole parishes in 1798, but not the value of the minister's manses (a). In this shire there are no Jier prices, because in it there are no feu-duties payable into the royal Exchequer. . (r) The witnesses were John the abbot of Kelso, Richard, the abbot of Jedburgh, Symon, the arch- deacon of Glasgow, Richard, the dean of Theviotdale, Peter, the dean of Cludesdal. Chart. Glasgow, 53. John was abbot of Kelso from 1160 to 1180 ; and Richard was abbot of Jedburgh from 1174. to 1192. So that this instructive charter was granted between the years 1174 and 1180. (s) Robertson's Index, 59. (t) lb. 148. («) lb. 164. (x) Companion, 29. (y) Id. ; Stat. Acco. vii. 156. (z) The population of the whole parish of Inverleithen, in 1755, was 559 ; in 1791, 560; and in 1801, 609. (a) That part of the stipends which is paid in victual is paid in beer, or big, and in oatmeal, generally in equal parts, and of equal value. In estimating the stipends of 1798, the beer and oat- meal were valued at the moderate rate of 15s. per boll, according to a seven years' average of the prices pi-eceding 1798. In this shire the boll of barley and oats contains six bushels fourteen pints, and twenty-one cubic inches, English standard measure, which is ten pints more than the standard Linlithgow boll. 962 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VII. — Peebles-shire. The Tabular State. Churches. Extent Inhabitants. . . Stipends. Parishes. in *s g h .2 d Past Patrons. Acres. 1755. 1801. 1881. $ £ P W P5 1755. 1798. £ s. D. £ s. D. Peebles, - 16,686 1,896 2,088 4,059 1 1 2 1 1 107 10 0 164 3 4 The Duke of Queensberry, as Earl of March. Lyne, 2,793 265 167 204 1 61 1 1 121 3 4 The Duke of Queensberry, as Earl of March. Linton, 23,420 831 1,064 1,117 1 1 1 68 12 8 152 13 4 The Duke of Quqjnsberry, as Earl of March. Drummelzier, - 18,029£ 305 278 208 1 84 18 0 139 12 0 The Duke of Queensberry, as Earl of March. Stobo, 10,372| 313 338 467 1 90 13 10 137 0 0 Sir J. Montgomery. Eddleston, 18,590 679 677 711 1 71 13 4 153 17 0 Lord Elibank. Kirkurd, - 5.704J 310 327 282 1 64 6 9 90 2 0 Carmichael of Skirling. Manor, 16,671 320 308 277 1 56 4 5 115 16 10 The Duke of Queensberry, as Earl of March. Tweedsmuir, 32.612J 397 277 215 1 68 0 0 121 0 0 The Duke of Queensberry, as Earl of March. Inverleithen, 24,122| 498 542 3,661 2 1 1 59 16 3 130 1 0 The Duke of Queensberry, as Earl of March. Traquair, - 17,600 651 613 754 I 73 3 0 136 6 0 The King. Newlands, 12,560 1,009 950 819 1 1 77 15 6 126 0 0 The Duke of Queensberry, as Earl of March. Glenholm, 392 242 56 7 9 127 13 4 The Duke of Queensberry, as Earl of March. Kilbucho,*- 279 342 56 17 9 126 0 0 Dickson of Kilbucho. SkirUng, - 3,4271 335 308 274 1 1 58 11 1 118 11 0 Carmichael of Skirling. Broughton, 18,1214 367 214 667 1 1 63 IS 10 114 0 0 The Duke of Queensberry, as Earl of March, Sect. I. — Its Name.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 963 CHAP. VIII. Of Selkirkshire. § i. Of its name.'] AS Roxburghshire derived its appellation from its castle, Selkirkshire obtained its name from its church, the town having borrowed a distinguished designation from the ancient kirk, and the sheriffwick its name from the town. In the early charters of the twelfth century the word is gene- rally written Selechyrche, in one instance, indeed, it appears in the Latin form of Scelechyrca, and in another example of doubtful authority Seleschirche (a). Sel forms the prefix of many names of places in England, as Sel-hy, Sel-h&m, *Se?-hurst, /SeZ-sted (b) ; and Bishop Gibson instructs us, by his topographical rules, that Sel denotes great, as Sel-tun signifies magnum opjnclum, so Selchyrc is the great church or the good church (c). Yet, as the occasion of the church in the forest arose from the circumstance of the king's having a hunting-seat here, the place of his worship may have been called >Se/e-chyrc, from the Saxon Sele, a hall, a prince's court (d). When a second church was built nearly on the same site, after the establishment of the monastery at this hunting-seat, the prior place was distinguished by the name of Selkirk -Regis, while the village of the monks was called Selkirk- Abbatis (e). (a) Chart. Kelso. In Earl David's foundation charter of the monastery here, the name is written Selechyrche and Scelechyrcha. Sir James Dalrymple's Col., 403. In the more modern charter of Malcolm IV., the name is mistakingly written Seleschirche. Diplom. Scotiae, pi. xxiv. (b) Adams's Villare. (c) See Cowel on the same point. Sel, however, signifying great, is, in an extended sense, from the Anglo-Saxon Sel, bonus, bene, satis. See Somner and Lye. (d) See Somner. (e) Chart. Kelso. Lord Hailes, indeed, whose peculiar notions deserve some regard, says, Seleschirche means the church in the wilderness, and that Seles, in the Anglo-Saxon, signifies a desert ; but he does not quote his authority. Seles is not to be found in the Saxon dictionaries, in his sense ; and, more- over, Seleschirche is a solitary and corrupt reading of the term. Annals, i. 96. There was a commis- sion of Alexander H., dated at Selechirck. Chart. Newbotle, 130. And there was a grant of the same king, given at Selechirch on the 7th of June, 1233. Chart. Kelso, 392. 964 An ACCOUNT [Oh. VIII.— Selkirkshire. Yet the area of this shire had a very different appellation in still more early times. As the Tweed supplied a name to the vale through which it took its highest course, so the Ettrick lent its Celtic appellation to the well-wooded country through which it flowed. The Scoto-Saxon kings, finding sport throughout Ettrick woodlands, very early established a hunting-seat at Selkirk, which gave rise to the town, and in the same age formed their hunting- grounds into a forest ; and the principal river which watered and adorned those extensive woodlands naturally gave its name to the country. Hence, from the epoch of record to recent times, this country has been called in charters, Ettrick forest, and the forest, for its pre-eminence, for its vert and venery. The name of the Ettrick is of doubtful origin, though it may be allowed to be of Celtic derivation. Eitrigh, in the Gaelic, signifies a furrow or trench (f) ; and Eithrach means, in the same speech, a wilderness (g). But this fine river must have had a distinguished name before the proper Gaelic was spoken on its banks, and the British aborigines undoubtedly gave an appropriate appellation to this picturesque stream. The Ed of their language signifies a current, and Terig, mud (h) ; and, in fact, when the Ettrick is in flood, it is extremely muddy from the quantity of eai'th which it carries away from every bank. In its usual flow the Ettrick is clear, as it glides over a gravelly channel and rushes through rocks or stagnates some- times on clay. During the whole Scoto-Saxon period, the Scottish kings who delighted in the chase, according to the manners of the age, appointed their foresters in this extensive forest, as we may see in the chartularies. Edward I., when by intrigue and force he succeeded them, appointed his own favourites as his foresters ; and Robert I., when he restored the Scottish monarchy by his fortitude and valour, granted to his able supporter, Sir James Douglas, the forests of Selkirk, of Ettrick and Traquair which adjoined them, in a free barony (i). Timothy Pont named his map of this country "the sheriffdom of (/) Lluyd's Arch, in vo. (g) Id. O'Brien and Shaw's Diet. (h) The British Ed, in composition, changes to Et. In South-Wales there is a river of this name ; but the syllables, in its formation, have been reversed into Teric-Ed. In a charter of Alexander II. to the monks of Kelso, the Ettrick of Selkirkshire is repeatedly mentioned by the various names of Ettric and Ethjric. Chart. Kel., 54. Another charter of the same king confirms some lands to the same monks for supporting the bridge of Ettrick. Ib., 392. In 1258 the abbot of Kelso held his baronial courts, "apud pontem de Eterig." Ib., 217. There is an Etterick loch in Dumfries-shire ; and there is an Etterick water in the western division of the large shire of Perth. (i) Boberts. Index, 10. The shire, however, was not granted ; but remained in the crown. David II.'s grant to Dalyel proves this important point. Begist. David II. Sect. IL— Its Situation and Extent.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 965 " Ettrick-forest, called also Selkirk," (k) and Ainslie denominated his delinea- tion of the same district, Selkirkshire or Ettrick-forest (I). § ii. Of its Situation and Extent.~\ The country which has thus been variously known through many an age, as Selkirkshire or Ettrick-forest, has Peebles-shire on the west, Dumfries-shire on the south, Roxburghshire on the east, where it is bounded by the Shaw burn, and on the north it has a part of Edinburghshire and a division of Roxburghshire (m). It is 27 [28] miles long from south-west to north-east, and 16 [17] miles broad, exclusive of a small de- tached part, on the east. It contains a superficies of 257 [260] square miles, or 166,448 [166,524] statute acres, and the population of this shire, according to the enumeration of 1801, being 5,446, this gives a population of nearly 21 to a square mile. This shire was first surveyed by Timothy Pont during the afflictive reign of Charles I. (n). It was again delineated by John Ainslie, who published his map in 1772 ; and there is a very useful sketch prefixed to the Agricultural Survey, by the Rev. Doctor Douglas, of this shire, which, as we have seen above, is not of great extent, and is of a very irregular form (o). § in. Of its Natural Objects.~\ With the exception of a very narrow portion on its eastern side, Selkirkshire may be said to be a continued alternation of hill and dale. Many of the eminences rise to considerable heights ( p). The (£) Blaeu's Atlas Scotiae, No. 5. (I) See Ainslie's Survey of 1772. (m) Selkirkshire lies between 55° 22' 20", and 55° 41' 54" north latitude ; and between 2° 47' 40" and 3° 18' 46" longitude west of Greenwich. The shire-town stands in 55° 34' 10" north latitude, and 2° 52' longitude west of Greenwich. Selkirk town is situated, according to the result of the barometer, 520 feet above the level of the sea. Edin. Philosoph. Essays, iii., xvii. (n) His map was published by Blaeu in his Atlas Scotia, No. 5. (o) Nor do its boundaries in general, according to that able writer, run aloDg the summits of mountains, or the course of streams, which however crooked, would afford evident marks for descrip- tion. A line merely ideal, and often whimsical, divides it in very many places from the surrounding counties. (p) The following detail will exhibit the heights of the most remarkable hills in Selkirkshire above the level of the sea, according to Ainslie's map of this shire: — Blackhouse heights, 2,370 [2,213] Windlestraw law, ...... . 2,295 [2,161] Minchmoor, 2,280. [1,856] Ettrick-Pen, ......... 2,200 [2,469] Law Kneis, ......... 1,990 Ward law, ......... 1,980 [1,951] 4 6 E 966 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VUL— Selkirkshire. hills are in general clothed in green, though some parts of them are discoloured by russet. The centre of the country, on the south of the Forth, does not rise to so great an elevation as the base of the heights on the north of the Forth. The valleys on the Ettrick, the Yarrow, and on the upper streams of the Tweed, which may be deemed the centre of southern Scotland, are not much more than five hundred feet above the level of the sea (q) ; while the level of the vale of Badenoch on the Spey, is at least a thousand feet above the sea level. The numerous valleys that separate the heights of this shire, are gene- rally confined to a narrow space by the acclivities on either side. Even the vales of the larger rivers, the Ettrick, the Yarrow, the Tweed, and the Gala, seldom expand themselves to any width, owing to the approximation of the mounts. From those vales, however, shoot out many cleughs and hopes, that run up a considerable distance between the heights (r), and each of those vales sends out its appropriate streamlet, which augments the rivers with its con- genial waters. Feet. Hangingshaw law, ........ 1,980 [1,044] Three Brethren, ........ 1,978 [1,523] Black Andrew, ......... 1,966 [1,364] Pent law, 1,964 Megalhill, ......... 1,480 Old Ettrick hill, ........ 1,860 Shaws hill, - - - - - - . . 1,212 The hills as estimated by Ainslie have been supposed, by skilful persons, to be rather too high. (q) The descent of the waters may be determined from the following heights on their banks : — Feet. Pot burn, 786 The junction of Tema water, ........ 664 Yarrow lochs, - - * . . . . . . . . 56O The Tweed, at Cardrona, ......... 529 The Tweed, at Traquair, - - . . . . . . . 510 Cadon water, at Cadonhead, - 480 Deuchar bridge, 453 Ettrick bridge, - - . . _ _ _ _ _ Gala water, at Crosslee toll-bar, - ggQ Selkirk bridge, - The Tweed, at the foot of Gala water, 286 (»•) Oieugh, from the Anglo-Saxon Clough, a fissure, or opening in a height, is generally applied, in the south of Scotland, to a narrow vale or glen. The word Hope, which is derived from the old French, as we learn from Bullet, is applied to a small and short valley, which is close at the upper end. This application of the Hope is confined to the south-east of Scotland, Sect. III.— Its Natural Objects.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 067 Of lakes, Selkirkshire, though an interior and mountainous region, cannot boast. The only considerable collection of water is St. Mary's loch, on the western extremity of this shire, which derived its name from a church that was early dedicated to the Virgin, on its north-western margin. This lake is about three miles long and about half a mile broad. It receives into its bosom the Yarrow and Megget waters, with several smaller streams ; and its outlet is the Yarrow, which adds so much to the beauty and convenience of this shire (s). Immediately above St. Mary's lake, the loch of the lows forms a much smaller bason on the Yarrow (t). There are here two lochs, which are only separated by a narrow and level neck of a hundred yards in length, that furnishes a channel for the Yarrow, from the loch above, to St. Mary's loch below. The loch of the lows breeds chiefly perch and pike, which delight in such waters. These, then, are the lakes on the western extremity of this shire. On the south-east of it, there are only a few small lochs ; such as Alemoor loch, King's- moor loch, Crooked loch, Shaws lochs, Oaker-moor loch, the overflowing of which collections are discharged by the upper drains of the Ale and Clayburn loch, that is emptied by Rankle burn, a feeder of the Ettrick. The size of these lochs varies from a mile and a half to a mile in circumference. They do not abound in any great variety of fishes, most of them having perch and pike, and some of them trout (n). A country consisting of green hills and " bushy dells," lying under a moist climate, must abound in rills and riverets, but the Ettrick and the Yarrow are the principal drains of Selkirkshire. The Ettrick rises among the moun- tains, in the south-west extremity of the shire, at a place, called from its source, Ettrich-head. Among a thousand streamlets which find oblivion in in Lothian, in Roxburgh, Selkirk, Peebles, and Dumfries ; and this word, which was not familiar to the Scoto-Saxons, may have been introduced into those countries by the Anglo-Normans who settled there during the reigns of David I., and of his two grandsons, Malcolm and William the Lion. (s) Ainslie's map of this shire. St. Mary's loch, says Dr. Douglas, surpasses any lake in the south of Scotland for its extent and beauty. Its banks are fringed with copse-wood. Agricult. Survey, 235. It breeds perch and pike. Stat. Acco., iii., 295. (t) Lows is a mere corruption of loughs, which is only a Saxon corruption of lochs, as we may see in the maps of Ireland. The English map-makers constantly convert the lochs of that Celtic country into loughs, not being able to pronounce the ch like the Gaelic people. The loch of the lows is the same as the loch of the lochs. The same pleonastic appellation of Loch of the loivs is applied to two adjoining lakes in Ayrshire. The loch of the Irish is merely the llivch of the British, signifying a collection of water. (w) Stat. Acco., ii. 537. 968 An ACCOUNT Ch. VUL— Selkirkshire. the Ettrick, the most considerable are the Rankle burn and the Tema water (x). After a course of five-and-twenty miles, the Ettrick is joined by its rival, Yarrow, above Selkirk town, and the united stream falls into the Tweed three miles below (y). Though the Ettrick (z) is not so celebrated in Scottish lyrics as the Yarrow or Tweed, yet have not Ettrick banks been quite forgotten in the " enraptur'd shepherd's song" (a). The Yarrow rises in those heights where the shires of Selkirk, Dumfries, and Peebles meet. After traversing the loch of the lows and St. Mary's loch, the Yarrow pushes forward with rapid violence, collecting in its devious course the Douglas burn, with other mountain streams, till it joins the Ettrick above Selkirk town (b). Its whole course of one-and- twenty miles is on a rocky and gravelly bottom, and is the roughest and most precipitous river in this country. It was from this prominent quality that it obtained from the British people its remarkable name. Garw in their language, Garow in the Cornish, and Farbh, which in the Gaelic has the same pronunciation, signify what is rough or a torrent (c) ; and this descriptive name was often applied by the Britons to several mountain torrents, both in North and South Britain ; the (g) of the Britons, as well as the (z) of the Saxons, being frequently sup- planted by the English (y), so that Garw has become Yarw and Yarrow. This change appears, however, to have been made on the name of this river since the twelfth century (d). The same change of the (d) into (y) has taken (x) The rivulet "de Timeye" is mentioned in a charter of Alexander II. to the monks of Melrose, as falling into the Etterick. Chart., 64. (y) Ainslie's map of the shire. All those streams, as they have not been polluted by manufactures, abound in excellent trout. Stat. Acco., iii. 295. (z) North from the Shaws is a mile to the bridge of Ettrick, consisting of two large arches and one small arch ; the pillars whereof are built upon a rock, and it has Scot of Harden's arms on its front. It is four miles to the south-west of Selkirk. Hodge's MS. Eelation, 1722. (a) Ritson's Scots Songs, 23. (b) From Hangingshaw are three miles to Yarrow bridge, of two arches, built of freestone, having the Duchess of Buccleuch's arms on the fore-front of it ; and at the north-west end of this bridge stood the old tower of Deuchar. Hodge's MS. Eelation, 1722. (c) Davis, Owen, Pryce ; O'Brien and Shaw. (d) In the foundation charter of Selkirk abbey, by Earl David, before the year 1124, this river is frequently mentioned by the Latin name of Garua. Chart. Kelso, No. 4. But Sir James Dalrymple, in his Hist. Col., 403, has mistakingly written this word Gierua, having misunderstood the a or ie. It was again spelt Garua in the subsequent charter of David, when he transferred the monks of Selkirk to Kelso. Chart. Kelso, No. 1. Sect. UL—Its Natural Objects.'] Of NOE TH-BEIT AIN. 969 place in the names of Yarrow river in Lancashire, and Yore water in Norfolk from which Yar-mouth derives its name, and Yare, which falls into the Ax in Devonshire. The Yarrow and its banks have been often celebrated in Scottish song (e), and sometimes the sympathizing poet hath " mourn'd on Yarrow's banks the widow'd maid." The Tweed, after draining Peebles-shire, intersects the northern extremity of Selkirkshire from west to east, during a placid course, in a deep channel of nine miles, when it is joined by the Ettrick, and receiving the Gala water, passes on from Selkirkshire, after forming a boundary with Roxburghshire. The Gala, which carries off the waters from a south-eastern district of Edinburghshire, enters Selkirkshire at Crosbie, and now forms the march between Selkirk and Roxburghshire during a course of six miles, when it falls into the Tweed. The Gala, which is much less rapid than the Ettrick and the Yarrow, as it descends through a flatter country, runs the greater part of its course over a gravelly bed. Its channel is very much confined by the high banks on either side of it, except in the three last miles of its course, when it bursts out from its confined channel, and overspreads, as often as it is swelled by rains, a considerable extent of lower grounds. The Gala of Selkirkshire, and the Gwala of Pembrokeshire, derive their singular names from the same British source. In the language of the British setters here, the Givala signified a full stream (f). The Strath of the Gala was early called Wdedale, from some bloody scenes on its contested margin. Gala water has long been admired among the Scottish chants ; and it has supplied an amorous ditty to one of the doric poets of Scotland, who admir- mirably sings (g) : " But Yarrow braes, nor Ettrick shaws, Can match the lads of Gala icater." (e) See Bamsay's and Eitson's songs. Burns, in his Address to the Shade of Thomson, cries out : " While maniac winter rages o'er The hills whence classic Yarroiv flows ; Bousing the turbid torrents' roar, Or sweeping wild a waste of snows." (/) The Gala is called the Galche in a charter of David L to the monks of Melrose. No. 54. It is spelled Galche and Galue in the charters of William the Lion. No. 146. It is called Gahie in two charters of Alexander II. to the monks of Melrose. Chart. No. 62, 144. As the word Galche is not significant in either the Saxon, the Scoto-Irish, or the British languages, as it is never mentioned but once under this form, we may reasonably suppose that it was the mistake of the scribe. (Scar-hills, (I) Stat. Acco., ii. 447. Yet in 1649, Elliot and Scot say that "a little above Pkiliphaugh there is a well, which, in regard of its smell, taste, purgative qualities, and other effects, such as colouring money laid into it, differeth little or nothing from the well of Moffat, that is so much frequented." MS. Acco. Advocates' Library. (wi) The most frequent compounds in the names of places are, Cleugh in thirty-two names, Hope in thirty-eight, Lee in fifteen, Shiel in twelve, Shaw in ten, Law, Kirk, Haucjh, Bum, Rig, and a few from Dod. («) Davis and Owen. 972 An ACCOUNT [Oh. VIII.— Selkirkshire. Loch of the Lows, Duchoir, now Deuchar. The names, indeed, of Dun-law and ^-reiver burn exhibit pleonastic compounds of the Gaelic and the Scoto-Saxon languages. The reader, if he do not constantly recollect the several successions of people in this shire who, in different ages, settled here, the Britons first, the Anglo-Saxons next, the Gaelic-Scots after them, and lastly, the Anglo-Norman and English people, must necessarily be confounded, when he looks upon the country map, to see such a mixture of names from different tongues. The same observation is equally to be made in respect to other shires ; and in this view of the subject the topography of the country becomes the truest history of the people during the darkest ages (o). As this shire was in early times completely covered with a vast forest, it should seem never to have been much cultivated by the first people, who existed rather in the state of hunters than of shepherds. The Romanized Britons may have made some advances towards the second step of society. The Saxon people seem to have taken firm possession without clearing away the woods, which still in a great measure remained at the end of seven change- ful centuries. There are but few British remains in this shire which would show the inhabitancy and mark the usages of the British people. There are here no druid temples, no stone monuments, no ancient sepulchres, nor do any hill- forts appear throughout the greatest part of Ettrick forest. It is in the eastern division of the shire, which now forms the cultivated part of it, where can be traced any British or Roman antiquities. In this tract there are the remains of some British strengths which were erected upon heights, and were formed generally between the circular and the oval. In the midst of several of those British strengths, in the parish of Roberton, there is a Roman camp which is of a square figure, and is flanked by a rivulet, the banks whereof are steep, is defended in front by Borthwick water, and having on the remaining sides arti- ficial ramparts. The remains of this post bear at present the name of Africa, the corruption of some ancient name which cannot now be traced (p). But (o) It may be of use to add here a specimen of the Scoto-Saxon language, as it was written here, in 1423, by Archibald, the fourth Earl of Douglas, who fell at the battle of Vernuil : "Be it knawyn till " all men thrwch yir present letterys us Archebalde off Douglas, Erie of Wygtoun, and off Longuevill, " til haf set, and till ferme lattyn till our lwuit Schir Wilzeam Myddilmast, twa forestar stedis wytin " Schutynle ward, by and betuix ye mastirstede and ye tourourstede off the ward off ye Yharrow," &c. Record Great Seal, book ii. No. 61. This lease is dated at ye Neuerk, in Newark castle. (p) About two miles from this Roman post, and within view of it, there is still to be seen a British fortlet, of a semicircular form. Stat. Acco., xi. 545. Sect. IV. — Its Antiquities.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 073 no Roman road has yet been discovered here which would lead us to any useful notice. Now the most remarkable remain of the Britons in this shire is the Catrail or battle-fence, consisting of a large fosse, with a rampart on either side. From Mossalee, on the north-east of this shire, the Catrail may be traced through the middle of the country, in a winding direction, till it passes from Selkirk into Roxburghshire by crossing Borthwick water -near Hosket. The course of the Catrail through Selkirkshire, from Mossalee to the passage of Borthwick water, extends to eight-and-twenty miles. This vast war- fence can only be referred for its construction to the Romanized Britons who, after the abdication of the Roman government, had this country to defend against the intrusion of the Saxons on the east during the fifth century, the darkest period of our history. Its British name, its connection with British hill-forts, the peculiarity of its course, and the nature of its formation, all evince that its construction can refer to no other people, and its epoch to no other period of our annals. Such are the antiquities of Selkirkshire ! The various languages of the earliest people, which are the best proofs of their different lineages, the hill-forts and war-fence of the Britons show their warlike policy. The Roman camp evinces the residence of Roman troops in this shire, as the dis- covery of Roman coins also show that they traversed its narrow bounds in their marches, though a Roman road has not here been yet traced. Monu- ments of stone, Selkirkshire appears to have none. William's Croce, indeed, once stood on a height near Broadmeadow, within a mile of Philiphaugh (q). On the top of Kershope hill, there stood a monumental stone called Taits-Cross, though the cause of its erection cannot now be traced to its origin (r). Craik- (q) It is stated in a MS. Account of this shire, by William Elliot of Stobs and Walter Scot of Arkilton, dated the 21st December 1649, in the Advocates' Library. They say this croce was raised where one of the Earls of Douglas was killed. This tradition points to the place where William Douglas, the knight of Liddesdale, was slain by William Earl of Douglas. Godscroft says, the knight was hunting in Galse ivood when he was killed, was carried the first night to Lindean kirk, a mile from Selkirk, and was buried in Melrose abbey. Hist. 77. (r) The fact is stated in a MS. Account of Selkirkshire by Mr. John Hodge, dated 1722, in the Advocates' Library. He adds a circumstance which has now become antiquated : " That there was then to be seen, at Taits-Cross, bougkted and milked, upwards of twelve thousand ewes, in the month of June, about eight o'clock at night, at one view." Bougkted is a verb, formed from the substantive bought or bught, which meant, in the speech of the shepherds, a fold for ewes while tbey ■were milked. There is an old song : " Will ye go to the eive-buchts, Marion ? And wear in the sheep wi' me.'' 4 6 F 974 Ax ACCOUNT [Ch. YHL— Selkirkshire. moor in Roberton parish, is a high mountain, four miles in length, about the middle whereof stood a stone called Craik-Cross, which divides the shire of Selkirk from Eskdale. From this Cross, in a clear day, may be descried the walls of Berwick, at the distance of eight-and-thirty miles to the eastward. The modern antiquities of Selkirkshire consist chiefly of ruined castles and moss-grown towers, erected some of them in the twelfth century, but the greater number of them in subsequent ages of foreign hostilities or domestic feuds. Whatever may have been their age or their picturesque rains, those towers escaped the attention of Grose, and eluded the notice of Cardonnel. We may still trace the ruins of Oldwark castle, on the south-east bank of the Yarrow, which was probably built here by some of the kings in early times, as a com- modious hunting-seat, and relinquished by them to the principal warden of their extensive forests (s). Higher up, on the same side of the Yarrow, may be seen the ruins of Newark castle, which was probably built by William, the first Earl of Douglas, after he succeeded to the forest (t). The ruins of towers throughout Selkirkshire are very numerous, and though of less size, are of similar construction, which was intended more for defences in war than the comforts of peace (it). These towers only refer us to the coarse and savage manners of the times that are passed. They are daily disappearing from anti- quarian eyes : " Nor, after length of years, a stone betray The place, where once the very ruins lay." § v. Of its Establishment as a Shire.~\ The origin of a sheriffwick in this district is extremely obscure. At the epoch of the Scoto-Saxon period, the Scottish kings had a castle, with large demesnes at Selkirk, the seat of most extensive forests. Whoever was the constable of the king's castle at Selkirk - regis, performed, in those early times, all the functions of a sheriff within its The word bucht or bught, if traced back through the Saxon and British, will be found to have a common original. (s) See its site in Ainslie's map of this shire. (t) lb. Archibald, the fourth Earl of Douglas, dated a lease of some lands in the forest to his chaplain Schir "William Meddelmast. " at ye New-werk," the 2d of March 1423-4. Anne, the first Duchess of Monmouth and of Buccleuch, was born in this castle of Newark, which is now the residence of crows and owls. («) There were Kirkhope tower on the Ettrick : Deucbar tower, on Yarrow ; Dyhope tower, near St. Mary s loch ; Blackhouse tower, on Douglas burn ; Thirlstane tower ; Gamescleugh tower ; Tushielaw tower, on the Ettrick, the seat of the king of the thieves ; Blindlee tower, in Galashiels parish ; Peel. in Yarrow parish. Sect. Y.—Fts Establishment as a Shire.] Of NOBTH-BBITAIN. 975 jurisdiction. There was probably a sheriffdom here, w ith the usual authorities, at the sad demise of Alexander III. The first sheriff however, of Selkirkshire, who has yet been found in any record, is Alexander Synton, who was cer- tainly sheriff here in 1292 (x). Edward I., in 1304, granted to Aymer de Valence, the Earl of Gloucester and his heirs, the keeping of the forest, the castle and the town of Selkirk (y). When Edward settled the government of Scotland in 1305, Selkirkshire was assigned " celui qui est de fe," to him, who was sheriff in fee and heritage ; and in fact, we have just seen that the Earl of Pembroke was then hereditary sheriff of this shire. We are now arrived at the epoch of the competition between the kings of Scotland and of England. Robert I. granted to his favourite warrior, Sir James Douglas, the forests of Selkirk and Traquair, with the juridical powers of a free barony (s). This grant, after the death of Hugh, the brother of Sir James, was confined to Sir William, the son of Archibald, and the first Earl of Douglas («), who domi- neered within Selkirkshire, till his death in 1384. Yet, during that long period, the English sovereigns regarded Selkirk as being under the regimen of a sheriffdom (6). Whatever grants they made of this country, or whatever government they established, the English were not allowed to retain quiet possession of a country which belonged to a Douglas under a Scottish title. In 1346, Sir William Douglas, the first earl, expelled them from Douglasdale, (x) Edward I., on the 10th of December 1292. issued a mandate to Alexander Synton, " vicecomes de Selkirk,'' to pay " to M., the bishop of Sodor," £10 from tbe arrears of his accounts, out of the issues of his bailliewic. Eotuli Scotiae, 12. Edward, on the 7th of January 1292-3, issued another precept to Alexander Synton, " nuper vicecomes de Selkirk," to pay £24 18s 4^d. out of the arrears due of his accounts to Nicolas de Colle, " mercatorem nostram Lucanen. de Societate Eicorum de Luca.'' Ib. 17. Synton is a local name. This sheriff was probably the lord of the manor of Synton, in the eastern quarter of Selkirkshire. Sinton is still the name of an estate there, and of a mansion, a hamlet, and a mill. (y) Abbrev. Eot. Origin. 151 ; Dugd. Bar. i. 776-8. Shortly after such appointment, he built a peel at Selkirk, and put a garrison in it ; and, attending Queen Isobell into France, in 1323", on the 23d of June the same year, he was murdered, as he had had a hand in the murder of the Duke of Lancaster. Ib. 777-8. (z) Eoberts. Index 10. (a) Ib. 55. He had no right over the shire-town as we have seen. As he obtained his grant in 1342, the period of his domination was two-and-forty years. (b) In 1334, Edward Baliol, when he gave so many countries to Edward EH., transferred to him the sheriffwic of Selkirk. Eym. iv. 615 — 617. Eobert de Manners was, on the 16th of June 1334, appointed sheriff of Selkirk, and keeper of the forest. Id., and, in 1335, Edward III. granted to William de Montaeute, the fee-firm of the forests of Selkirk and Ettrick, with the town and sheriffdom of Selkirk, rendering yearly thirty pounds. Ib. 671 ; Ayloff, 161. 976 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VIII.— Selkirkshire. and took possession of Ettrick forest (c). After the attainder of Earl Douglas in 1455, the forest of Selkirk, with whatever jurisdiction, was annexed by parliament to the crown. In 1503, John Murray of Falahill was sheriff of Selkirkshire (d). James IV., on the 30th of November 1509, granted to John Murray and to his heirs, the sheriffdom of Selkirkshire (e). Yet they seem not to have enjoyed it without interruption, owing to a lapse in the loyalty of this family, who owed their office to the king's bounty. A revolution restored them to their rights, and rewarded them for their wrongs (f). John Murray of Philiphaugh, the descendant of Murray of Falahill, received, in 1748, four thousand pounds in compensation for this heritable sheriffship. Among a million of pretensions, on that occasion, the Duke of Douglas claimed the regality of Selkirk. We may easily suppose, as the Duke asked very much, and obtained very little, that he claimed for the whole forfeited jurisdictions of his family (g). When that admirable reform was made, by purchasing those injurious jurisdictions, Charles Campbell of Monzie, advocate, was appointed sheriff of Selkirkshire for the king (h). § VI. Of its Civil History.] Under this head of narration, the shire-town is the first object. In very early times, the forest preceded the castle of Selkirk, as the castle gave rise to the village, while the church was a necessary adjunct, both of the castle and the town. Before the year 1124, there existed upon this agreeable site, a castle, an old town, and an ancient church (i). The (c) Lord Hailes's An. ii. 221. (d) Balfour's Practicks, 16. That sheriff had the honour of delivering seisin of the forest to Lady Margaret of England, as a part of her dower when she married James IV., as we know from Eymer. (e) Douglas Baron. 105 ; Sir James Dalryni pie's Col. 350. Lady Margaret Hepburn, the daughter of Adam, the second Earl of Bothwell, who fell on Flodden-field, married John Murray of Falahill, the hereditary sheriff of Selkirkshire. Dougl. Peer. 85. (/) The Earl of Boxburgh was sheriff of Selkirkshire during the king's pleasure. Warrant Book. John Biddel of Haining was also sheriff during pleasure. Id. Sir James Murray, who was born in 1655, " was concerned in' a design of making an insurrection in Scotland at the time of Shaftesbury's plot, and was one of the evidences against Baillie of Jerviswood. He was made a Lord of Session at the Revolution ; and, sometime after, Lord Begister, by the title of Philiphaugh." Carstair's State Papers, 99 ; and see Lockhart's Memoirs throughout. (g) The Duke of Douglas claimed for the regality of Selkirk £2,000 ; and for his whole jurisdic- tions £34,000 ; but he was compensated with £5,104 5s. Id. List of Claims. (h) Scots Mag. 1748, 155. He died on the 26th of March 1751. (i) In the foundation charter of Earl David he granted to the monks of Selkirk the lands " de Selechyrche, inter viam qua vadit de castello ad abbatiam et garuam, viz., versus veterem villain." Chart. Kelso, No. 4 ; Sir J. Dalrymple's Col. App. iv. ; Chron. Melrose. Sect, VI.— Its Civil History.] Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 977 castle, as it was erected for the amusements of peace rather than for the struggles of war, was probably built of slight materials. It was not, perhaps, much inhabited by David L, after his accession in 1124, as he gave the pre- ference to Roxburgh castle, which from its site was more agreeable and more safe (k). The castle of Selkirk was frequently inhabited by William the Lion (I). His son and his grandson, the second and third Alexander, may have sometime resided in the same castle ; but this ancient hunting-seat dis- appeared from antiquarian eyes before the accession of Robert I. ; and we have already seen that Aymer de Valence built a peel at Selkirk town, which seems to intimate that there remained no royal house at this ancient place. At no great distance, indeed, upon the Yarrow, there was in very early times an ancient castle which was called Olchvarh, which was probably built by the king while there were no proprietors here who could have built with lime and stone, and which was probably inhabited by the warden of the forest, as we (k) The castle was mentioned, as we have seen, in the foundation charter of Selkirk abbey. When David I. granted to Ernald, the abbot of Kelso, the church of Selkirk-regis, he provided that the abbot and his successors should be chaplains to him, and his sons, and their heirs, in the said castle. Chart. Kelso, No. 370. (/) At the end of the twelfth century, a controversy between the monks of Melrose and Patrick, Earl of March, about their several rights in the forest between the Gala and the Leader, was settled by an agreement between the parties, in the king's court, and in his presence, at Selkirk. And William granted a charter, confirming the agreement, which he says was made " apud Selechirche, in presencia mea, in plena curia mea.'' Chart. Melrose, 140. A controversy between the monks of Kelso and those of Melrose about their lands was remitted by Pope Celistine, to be decided by King William. At Melrose, in 1202, the king heard the pretensions of the two parties, and thereupon directed an inquisition to be made, "per probos et antiquos homines patiise.'' The good and the experienced men of the country seem to have found in favour of the monks of Kelso ; for the parties coming again before the king at Selechirche, in 1204, he gave judgment in favour of the monks of Kelso, and, according to the practice in that age, he confirmed the judgment by a charter, wherein the whole proceeding is recited. Chart. Melrose, No. 18. King William must have resided on such occasions in his castle at Selkirk throughout his whole reign. Of King William's many charters, three to the bishops of Glasgow were dated at Selechirche. Chart. Glasgow, 33, 209, 217. The foundation charter of Arbroath, and another grant to the monks thereof, were dated at Selechirche. Dug. Monast., ii. 1053 ; Chart. Arbroath, 68. A charter to the monks of Lindores, two to the monks of Paisley, two to the monks of Kelso, and one to the monks of Melrose, were all dated at Selechirche. Chart. Lind., No. 6 ; Chart. Paisl., No. 10-36 ; Chart. Kelso, No. 103-4 ; and Chart. Melrose, No. 4. We herein see how often William the Lion dwelt in his castle at Selechirche, and how often he hunted in his forests of Selkirk. His son and grandson probably followed his example. On the 7th of June 1233, Alexander II. dated a charter at Selechirche. Chart. Kelso, No. 392. The castle no doubt continued to be the occasional residence of the Scottish kings till the sad demise of Alexander III. 978 An ACCOUNT [Oh. VIII.— Selkirk-shin have seen. A village arose under the more ancient castle even beyond the period of record. A new hamlet had already arisen near the old, as we have perceived, before the year 1124 (m) ; and the two villages, after the founda- tion of the abbey, came to be distinguished by the appropriate names of Selkirk -real's and Selkirk-afrfra^s. When the monks were removed in 1128 the latter distinction soon evanished. Selkirk, which had this ancient founda- tion, long continued a town in the king's demesne, but did not become a royal burgh till much more recent times. We might infer this circumstance, indeed, from the silence of Ragman Roll (n). While the rulers of other towns were obliged to swear fealty to Edward L, we do not perceive any corporate body from Selkirk upon their knees before their superior lord. During the long conflicts for the succession to the crown, the town of Selkirk was often granted to the successive partizans of the rival kings, as we have already learned from their charters (o). We may thus perceive that Selkirk continued to be a burgh under David II., when the king's firms were rented for a specific sum to some known character, and when of course, in notion of law, Selkirk was merely a town in the royal demesne {p). In this inferior state Selkirk continued till the recent reign of James V. From this charter it became a royal burgh, on an occasion that reflects high honour on the loyalty and spirit of this ancient town (q). When James IV. was marching forward to his fate at Floddon-field, a hundred townsmen joined him under the town clerk. They fought stoutly; they almost all fell in the field rather than flee. Few of them returned with. William (m) Chart. Kelso, No. 1. (n) Prynne, iii. (o) Eobert I. granted to Henry Gelchedal the mill of Selkirk for the yearly payment of two marks of money. Eobertson's Index. David II. granted to Eobert Dalyell the town and lands of Selkirk. Ib. 34. David II. granted the lands within the town, and the mill of Selkirk, to Eobert Carnock. Ib. 60. In 1365, David II. renewed his grant to Eobert Dalyell, of the king's lands about the town, with an exception of "the kings firms of the burgh of Selkirk.'' Ib. 79. In 1398, Eobert III. confirmed to George, Earl of Angus, who had married the king's daughter, Mary, " the haill town of Selkirk." Eoberts. Index, 139. (p) See Madox's Hist, of the Exchequer. In those intimations, we may trace the origin of the cor- porate bodies of Scotland. The villages were first the king's town in his demesne. "When they obtained from the king's grant a right to choose their own rulers, and to rent their own firms, they became royal burrows. (q) The first charter is dated the 4th March 1535 ; this was enlarged in 1538, and again in 1540, when the bailies and community were empowered to elect a provost every year. The corporation now consists of thirty-three members : two bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, two old bailies, an old dean of Guild, and an old treasurer ; five deacons of trades, five colleagues, ten merchant councillors, and five trades councillors. The revenue of the corporation, as returned to Parliament, is £284 a-year. Sect, VI.— Its Civil History. ] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 979 Bryden, their gallant chief, who brought with him, as proofs of their valour rather than of victory, an English standard and a hostile pole-axe, which are usually carried in the processions of the corporation as the ensigna of the town (?•). The English soon after burnt the town. The gratitude or the approba- tion of James V., granted them timber from his forests to rebuild it, and a thousand acres of land to reanimate the burgesses (s). In 1556, of the forty- two burghs, Selkirk and Peebles paid the same taxes. In the monthly assess- ment of 1695, Selkirk paid £72, and Peebles only £66 (t). Selkirk as a royal burgh, with Peebles, Linlithgow, and Lanark, choose one representative to the united parliament. Selkirk is the metropolis of the shire, being the seat of the sheriff's and commissary's courts, with the justices' sessions ; and having a weekly market and many yearly fairs (u). Yet in this shire we see nothing of greatness in ancient times, either of things or persons, but the forest, the king, and the abbot of Kelso. The forest of Ettrick, in those ages, spread over the whole country which is drained by the Ettrick and Yarrow as far northward as the Tweed. The kindred district, which is watered by the Cadon, and lies northward of the Tweed, also formed a considerable part of this extensive forest, which was anciently called either Ettrick or Selkirk ; and sometimes it was named indiscriminately Ettrick and Selkirk forest (x). Those "woodland grounds" appear to have been early (?*) By a charter of James V., which now lies forgotten among the archives of the corporation, William Bryden, the town clerk, and his successors in office, were created knights, on a recital of the bravery of Bryden and the valour of the townsmen. (s) The king empowered, on that occasion, the body politic of the town to incorporate the trades, particularly the soutars or cordwainers, who are celebrated in song, with their deacon, " who, at the admission of every new soutar, is obliged by charter, to provide him with a maid if he desire it." Some burgesses have pleaded their privilege, and were by the deacon provided to their satisfaction. Hodge's MS. Account, 1722. We may suppose, however, that it is a wife which the Deacon is bound to provide for the burgess on demand. (<) Gibson's Hist. Glasgow, 78-103-121. In June 1633, the parliament passed an act in favour of the burgh of Selkirk. Unprinted Act of that date. In June 1640, there passed another act in favour of Selkirk, confirming a fair to be held there yearly on the 4th of July. Unprinted Act of that date. (u) It hath a famous church, saith Hodges, and school, with a strong prison, fine councilhouse and market-cross, standing in the middle of the town, having three good entries into the town by the west, east, and south parts. It is situated not far from the water of Ettrick on the north. It hath three very good mills ; to wit, corn and waulk mills, with one boat, that*, goes below the mill. It hath a large common on the south and north parts, fit for corn and store. MS. Acco., 1722. (x) In several charters, Ettrick and Selkirk are mentioned as separate forests ; and the forest of 980 An ACCOUNT [Oh. VIII.— Selkirkshire. settled by the Northumbrian Saxons, as we may infer from the antiquity of the Saxon names of places, among which can be traced but very few English appellations. The most numerous woods in those vast forests were of oaks, mixed with birch and hazel. And, indeed, great numbers of oak trees are even now dug up in the mosses, which owed their formation chiefly to the stagnation of waters upon the woodlands, that were resigned to neglect and accident. Those woodlands were of old inhabited by the Eurus, whose remains are still found in the mosses and the marl-pits (y). Beasts of chace and birds of prey formerly abounded here ; as we may learn from the names of the places which they frequented (z). From the old song of the Outlaw Murray, we may indeed learn that, " Ettrick forest is a fair forest, In it grows many a semelie trie ; The hart, the hynd, the doe, the roe, And of a' beastes great plentie." The recital of the minstrel is, in this instance, justified by record. From the age of Earl David, during several centuries, many grants were made of various easements, within the ample scope of those fair forests. Earl David, when he founded the abbey of Selkirk, before the year 1 1 24, when he happily ascended the throne, gave to the monks " terram de Selechyrche," the Ettrick appears to have comprehended the country on the rivers Ettrick and Yarrow ; while Selkirk forest comprehended the country on the Lower Ettrick, and the district on both sides of the Tweed. Adjoining to this large forest on the north-west, there was a smaller forest that spread over the country which is drained by the Q uair on the south of the Tweed, and it was denominated in charters the forest of Traquair, and now forms a part of Peebles-shire. There also adjoined the forest of Selkirk, on the north-east the forest on the Gala ; and upon the east side there was a smaller forest on the Upper Alne. The fact is, that in the retours made to parliament in 1613, of the rental of each estate in the whole country, the sheriffdom of Selkirk and the forest of Ettrick were returned separately, and seem to have been severally accounted for in the Exchequer ; the first, by the sheriff, and the second by the forester; the amount of the rental, according to the old extent of the sheriffdom, was £122 6s. 8d., " besyds the kirk-landis, and landis in Roxburghshire," and the Tax Roll of the lordship of Ettrick forest, "as it was retourit in an judicial court," amounted to £670 15s. 6d., whereof the Earl of Buccleuch held the value of £186 6s. 8d. MS. Copy from the Eecord. (y) Stat. Acco., ii. 448 ; Transact. Antiq. Soc. Scot., i. 57. (z) Even before the year 1649, this forest was almost altogether denuded of its trees. Yet even then, " some places remained well furnished with pleasant and profitable woods, especially for build- ing. The tops of the mountains had [in 1649] good store of moor-fowls, and in some places the black cock and grey hen, which is a large and delicate kind of fowl." Elliot and Scot's MS. Account of this shire, 1649, in the Advocates Library. Sect. VI.— Its Civil Historij.~\ Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 081 land of Selechyrche as described, with the tenth of the skins of the harts and hinds which his hounds [valtrarii] should take in the forest. His munificence was approved by the charters of his grandsons, Malcolm and William. When David I. refounded the monastery of Melrose, he conferred on the monks in his forests of Selkirk and Traquair, pasture for their beasts, and pannage and wood, and other materials, as freely as he himself enjoyed those special advantages (6). Alexander II. gave the monks of Melrose the whole of his waste, that lay on the Upper Ettrick, between the forests and the mountains which divided it from Eskdale and Annandale (c). In 1235, Alexander II. empowered those monks to hold their lands upon the Upper Ettrick in a free forest (d). The monks of Kelso had also their liberties within the forest of Selkirk ; and they had incidentally their burdens. The abbot of Kelso was bound to repair the bridge of Ettrick (e). The bridge of Ettrick was the appropriate mote, where the abbot of Kelso, in those times, held his baronial courts (f). From those notices, it is apparent that the only great land-holders during the Scoto-Saxon period, were the abbots of Kelso and Melrose. There does not appear to have been any person from Selkirkshire in the numerous parliament of Brigham, 1290, if we except those abbots who resided without the shire. And when every one was required to swear fealty to Edward I. in 1296, we see only three persons who submitted to his will : Richard, the vicar of Selkirk town, and John de Craik, and Cristine de Greenhead, " del counte de Selkirk "(g). From those intimations we may perceive that there was not any person of con- sequence in Selkirkshire during those distressful times. Simon Fraser, the elder, of Peebles-shire, was the king's keeper of the forest of Selkirkshire at the eventful demise of Alexander III. In 1290, Edward I. began to act as sovereign of Selkirkshire. He gave away the beasts and timber of the forest (h). He appointed officers for the (b) Diplom. Scotiae, pi. iv. ; Chart. Melrose, No. 54. (c) Chart. Melrose, No. 64. (d) Chart, in Bibl. Harl. ; Robertson's MS. Extracts. In 1235, Alexander II. allowed the monks of Melrose to settle in the forest of Ettrick ; and granted to the abbot of Melrose the right of free forest, in the four granges circumjacent. Chart. Melrose, 203 ; Cron. Melrose, 203. (e) Alexander II. granted, in 1233, to the abbot of Kelso, the lands of Richard, the son of Edwine, lying on both side of the river, for the proper repair of the bridge of Ettrick. Chart. Kelso. No. 217. (f) Chart. Kelso, 217. In the statement of the property of the monks of Kelso, which they drew up under Robert I., they say they had at Selkirk-regis " terrain, que vocatur terra pontis, et contenit 16 acres." Ib. 10. (g) Prynne, iii. 660-62. (h) Edward I., on the 18th August 1291, issued a precept to Simon Fraser the keeper of the forest 4 6 G 982 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VIII.— Selkirkshire. guard and government of the country (i) ; and he was followed in his principles and precepts by Edward II. and Edward III., who, by aiming at too much, were finally disappointed in all. But a great change was at hand. The valour and fortune of Robert I. en- abled him, as we have seen, to reward the services of Sir James Douglas, by granting him as a free barony, the forests of Selkirk, Ettrick, and Traquair (k). In 1342, this grant was repeated and enlarged by David II., to Sir William Douglas, the nephew of the good Sir James (/). Such, then, were the occasions and the grants which gave the Douglases an entrance and rights within the forests of Selkirkshire, and which they lost in 1455, by their ambitious folly and parliamentary attainder. In the meantime, the insatiable ambition of Edward III. raised up a pretender to the Scottish crown, and thereby involved the two nations in still more inveterate wars. In June 1334, that pretender, Edward Balliol, transferred to the English king all the rights which he could convey in the several forests of Selkirk, to deliver to William Fraser, the bishop of St. Andrews, thirty harts ; to Robert, bishop of Glasgow, twenty harts, and sixty oaks ; to Adam, the bishop of Caithness, and chancellor of Scotland, ten harts ; to William de Sinclair, six harts ; to Brian, the preceptor of the knights of the Temple in Scotland, two harts and four oaks ; to William de Soulis, ten harts ; to John de Soulis, six harts ; to William de Hay, four harts ; to the keeper himself, ten harts ; and to Thomas de Clenhult, four harts. Rot. Scotiae, 3. He issued another precept to the same forester to deliver six harts to the abbot of Jedworth, and four harts to Adam de Botendon, the vice-chancellor of Scotland. Ib. 9. In May 1296, he gave to Reginald de Crawford six harts from the same forest. Ib. 35. And he granted to the monks of Melrose forty oaks from the same woodlands. Rolls of Pari. ii. 469. (i) In January 1291-2, Edward L confided the keeping of the forest of Selchirche and Traquair to William, the son of John Cumyn, as Simon Fraser, who died in Autumn 1291, lately held the same. Ayloff's Calend. 107 ; Rot. Scotiae, 7. Edward, on the 6th of May 1292, appointed Thomas de Burn- ham the keeper of Selkirk forest, with the demesne lands thereto belonging. Ib. 23 ; Rym. ii. 717. In 1300, Simon Fraser was warden of Selkirk forest. Ib. ii. 870. He was superseded soon after by the appointment of Aymer de Valence, as we have seen. Edward II., on the 13th of December 1 309, gave the keeping of the castles of Selkirk and Both well to the same Aymer de Valence. Rot. Scotiae, 80. (k) Roberts. Index, 10. The same king, meantime, granted to the monks of Coldinghavu five bucks yearly out of the forest of Selkirk, for the celebration of the festival of St. Cuthbert's translation. The forefathers of the forests owed much to the worthy Cuthbert for his instruction. And David II. repeated the liberal grant of his generous father. (/) Roberts. Index, 55. David II. granted to the monks of Kelso authority to cut timber in the forest of Selkirk for repairing the damage to their edifices of the long-continued wars. Ib. 63. Sect. VI.— Its Civil History. .] Of NOKTH-BRITAIN. 983 within Selkirkshire (m). The English king made haste to enforce his spurious title by his pen and his sword. He granted his rights, in various propor- tions, in different forms ; and after holding the Christmas festival at Rox- burgh, in 1334, he marched into the forest of Ettrick, without meeting with those hardy men who had contemned his authority, and who now thought it prudent to withdraw, " under the hospitable covert of the wild wilderness, thick interwoven (n)." The Douglases, at length, raised their spears. In 1338, the knight of Liddisdale, with his usual enterprise, compelled the English to abandon Teviotdale, and, of course, to retire from the forest (o). Young Sir William Douglas, of Douglas, had been appointed by David II.. in May 1342, the leader of the men of Selkirk and of Roxburgh (p). After the fatal conflict at Nevils-cross in 1346, the English again retook the castle of Roxburgh, and again seized the forests of Selkirkshire. But, the men of Selkirk gather- ing around their chief, drove the intruders from Douglasdale, and regained their native forests (q). After various alternations of defeat and victory, the surest proofs of the enterprise and bravery of the contending parties, the chief of Selkirkshire retained the object of contest within his grasp. It was during those conflicts, probably, that the whole shire was divided into wards (/■). The usual festivities of the forest were soon saddened by domestic woe. The chief of the Douglases ordered William, the knight of Liddisdale, to be slain, in 1353, as he was enjoying the sports of the chase in Galswood (s). William's (m) Rym. iv. 615. Edward immediately appointed Robert de Manners the keeper of the forests of Selkirk and Ettrick. Ib., 617. In 1334, Edward issued a writ, to inquire if the Countess of Mar was entitled to be keeper of those forests. Ib., 622. This Countess of Mar was probably the widow of Donald Earl of Mar, who fell at the battle of Duplin in 1332, whose weakness entailed so many misfortunes on his country. She was Isobel, the daughter of Sir Alexander Stewart of Bonkill. Douglas Peer., 160. She seems to have had no right to what she claimed ; for in October 1335, Edward III. granted to William de Montacute the forest of Ettrick and sheriffdom of Selkirk, to him and his heirs. Ib., 671. (n) Border Hist., 314. (c) Lord Hailes's An., ii. 202. (p) Crawford's Peer., 95 ; Roberts. Index, 55. (q) Lord Hailes's Ad., ii. 221. (r) Those wards are very obscurely mentioned, as we have seen, in a lease, dated in 1423, by Archibald Douglas, Earl of Wygtown, to his chaplain, Schyr William Midelmast, Record Great Seal, book ii., No. 61. (s) The Scala Cronica tells this dismal story in this manner: "William Douglas, that had greatly " holped the quarrel of King David, was restored to his castell of the Hermitage, upon conditions, that " he never after should bear wepen agayn King Edwarde, and always be ready to take his part. This " Duglas was sone after slayn of the Lord Willyam Duglas, yn the forest of Selkirk.'' But see the Act of Liberation, dated the 17th of July, 1352, in Rym. v. 738 ; and see before the note in this volume, 800. By comparing all those facts together, we may ascertain clearly the cause of that odious deed, 984 An ACCOUNT [Oh. VIII.— Selkirkshire. cross marks the spot where feudal policy perpetrated his odious purpose. The body of the knight, who had been often overpowered but never conquered, was carried to Lindean kirk for a night, and thence was conveyed to Melrose abbey for his lasting repose. That one Douglas should slay another Douglas is such an act that Godscrofb, the apologist for all the deeds of all the Douglases, knows not how to extenuate or explain, without the aid of amatory fiction, while the odious passions of envy, interest, and ambition, were the true motives in the flinty heart of the principal assassin, who was too powerful for punish- ment at such a moment, when England desired tranquillity, and Scotland was ruled by a regency. David II., on the 15th of May 1365, conferred the lands of Selkirk with the pertinents, but not the annual rents or the royal firms of the burgh of Selkyrk, on Robert Dalyell and his heirs-male, till he should be better provided for ; yielding, for the same, yearly, one arch-tenant and three suits to the king's courts at Selkyrk (t). After a respite of half a century, the rival kings again began alternate grants of those forests to rival families. Robert III. conferred on Archibald Douglas, who had married his daughter Margaret, the regalities of the forest of Etterich, of Lauderdale, and Romannoch, with the lordship of Douglas (w). In 1403, Henry IV., studious to reward the strenuous merits of Henry Percy, the Earl of Northumberland, granted, as much as in him were, the earldom of Douglas, Eskdale, Lydsdale, Lauderdale, the lordship of Selkirk and the forest of Eteryk with the domains, castles, peels, fortalices, manors, villages, hamlets, sheilings, lands, tenements, rents, services, with the pertinents, in Scotland, which William, James and Archibald, the three first Earls of Douglas, had held, or Archibald that now is, or Joan his mother, enjoyed when the earl was taken at Hamildon hill (x). Percy had already forgotten how Douglas had fought at Otterburn ! Henry IV. but faintly recollected how many Douglases had been taken, and how often Scotsmen had been overcome, yet were never conquered. It still required the experience of three hostile centuries to convince English statesmen that Scotland could only be obtained by treaty. Many a conflict followed that grant to Percy, and many truces were made between kings whose pretensions were irreconcileable, and between nations, whose wrongs, as they were often renewed, could not be rectified. without supposing the love of a Countess of Douglas, who did not then exist. Godscroft, 77-8-81. There was no Earl or Countess of Douglas, in 1353. (t) Regist. David II., 131 j Printed Rec, 45. Crawfurd's Peerage, 68, in stating the above grant, calls ruistakingly the thing granted, the barony of Selkrig. («) Roberts. Index, 142. ( x ) Rym., viii. 289. Sect. VI. — Its Civil History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 985 During a moment of quiet, James II. granted to William, Earl Douglas, on the 26th of January 1450-1, the forests of Selkirk and Ettrick, in a free regality, with the accustomed jurisdictions («). This potent chief now domi- neered a while in Selkirkshire, but he was too proud and too powerful to be restrained by gratitude or ruled by law. The Earl of Douglas, in an age which was fatal to his family, was forfeited in 1455 for his many treasons ; and on the 4th of August, in the same year, the lordship of Ettrick forest, with its pertinents, was annexed to the crown by act of Parliament (b). Selkirkshire was, after this great change, governed by the king's stewart, during three-and- thirty years, throughout the perturbed reigns of James II. and James III. (c). But that forfeiture was never forgiven by the Douglases, whose chief pursued James III., as his evil genius, till he obtained his dethronement and death on Stirling-field. The first parliament of James IV., which, after that event, met on the 7th of October 1488, gave the domination of the several sheriffdoms of Roxburgh, Selkirk, Peebles and Lanark, to the same Earl of Angus who had thus dethroned the unhappy king (d). The other chiefs of that revolt had all their individual rewards for their several villainies. Alexander Home, the great chamberlain, was appointed in parliament, on the 15th of February 1489-90, to collect the king's rents and casual revenues in the shires of Selkirk and Stirling, as he had in keeping the castles of Strivelin and Newark (e). The common people cried out shame and vengeance in vain ! While the chamberlain thus enjojed the fruits, the king possessed the fee of those countries. When James IV., who had been made an instrument of mis- chief by those insurgents, had agreed to marry the Lady Margaret of England, he thought of those estates for her dower ; and on the 24th of May 1503, he endowed her with the whole forest of Ettrick in Selkirkshire, with the manor of Newark and its tower within the same forest {f). She soon after obtained (a) Scotstarvit's Calendar. (b) Pari. Rec, 36. (c) The parliament, on the 12th of January, 1467-8, having directed an inquest to be made into each landholder's rent, in each shire, for the purpose of assessment, appointed, in Selkirkshire, for making that retour John Murray and John Turnbull. Pari. Rec, 151. This is the first public appearance of a Murray in Selkirkshire. (d) Pari. Rec, 337. (e) lb., 364. Newark castle on the Yarrow. About half a mile below it there was the castle of Oldwark. See Ainslie's Map of Selkirkshire. We are told in song that there is a peel on Leaderhaughs, " Which stands as sweet on Leaderside, As Newark does on Yarrow.'' (/) Rym., xiii. 63. 986 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VIII Selkirkshire. seisin of the whole from John Murray of Falahill, the sheriff of Selkirk (. £ s. D. Selkirk, - - 22,895 1,793 2,098 7,432 2 1 2 1 1 1 — 96 11 1 170 0 0 The Duke of Roxburgh. Yarrow, - - 41,856 1,180 1,216 639 1 1 — — — — — 104 8 10 165 19 9 The King. Ettrick, - - 42,6823 397 445 397 1 1 — — — — — 65 2 2 118 0 0 Lord Napier. Galashiels, - 8,589 827 844 9,742 4 2 3 1 1 1 2 77 15 6 134 6 2 Scot of Gala. Roberton,- - 29,666^ 250 237 567 1 — — — 67 10 0 144 18 9 The King. Ashkirk, - 201 163 /