[A.~ BISON Pee ]) IOl· ,j5': S~3 A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SKINCAREANDMORE 8 5 7 ~ 9 CLEANSE WHAT DOES PROPER CLEANSING DO? 1 Dissolves makeup and removes excess oils, bacteria and dirt that can block pores and gradually develop into blemishes. 2 Eliminates the outer layer of dead skin cells that can dull skin. 3 Promotes a brighter, fresher appearance. Facial cleansers come in various forms: solid and liquid soaps, lotions and creams designed for the needs of different skin types. It's important to use the correct facial cleanser since it is synchronized to your skin's characteristics. TONE WHAT DOES PROPER TONING DO? -<:. 1 Removes excess oils and cleanser residue. 2 Refines pores for a smoother appearance. 3 Stimulates and refreshes the skin. 4 Promotes a more youthful radiance. 5 Prepares skin to receive the maximum benefits of a moisturizer. After-cleansing products are called Toners, Refreshers and Astringents. These terms are used interchangeably. The mildest forms are free of alcohol and best suited for dry skin. Those that contain alcohol come in various strengths. Ask questions before you buy. NOW THAT \'OU KNOW the fundamentals of proper skin care and the general types of products to use, the next step is to perfect your program -to customize this information to your skin's individual needs. That requires a proper introduction to the three basic skin types. So read the following descriptions for dry, normal and oily skin. EVIDENT SIGNS OF DRY SKIN • A generally tight, taut feeling to skin. • Obvious lines around eyes, mouth or on forehead. • Few problems with skin breakout and blemishes. • Dull, parched or flaky appearance. NOTICEABLE SIGNS OF NORMAL SKIN • Visible pores, basically smooth texture. • Neither primarily dry nor oily. • Somewhat oilier T-Zone (forehead, nose and chin). • Either monthly breakout or infrequent breakout. OBVIOUS SIGNS OF OILY SKIN • Overall oily shine, particularly on the T-Zone. • Enlarged pores, especially on the cheeks. • Problems with blackheads, whiteheads or acne breakout. • Flakiness around nose and chin (accumulation of dried oils). 2 MOISTURIZE WHAT DOES PROPER MOISTURIZNG DO? 1 Replenishes natural moisture loss. 2 Minimizes the appearance of dry lines. 3 Cushions the effects of harsh weather. 4-Provides longer wear for makeup and helps to keep its color fresh -looking. MOISTURE IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A RAISIN AND A GRAPE Physically fit skin is almost 90% water. And it's the water-and-oil balance that keeps your skin soft and supple. Moisturizers are offered in both lotions and creams ranging from lightweight and fast-absorbing to rich and emollient. Some formulas are enhanced with special ingredients like soluble collagen. HOW TO SELECT A MOISTURIZER The way a moisturizer acts and feels has a lot to do with its capabilities. Massage it into your face. • Is it the consistency you prefer, i.e., lightweight or creamy? • Does it absorb quickly into the skin? • Does it leave a soft glow and a silky finish? If more moisturizer stays on top of your skin than is absorbed, it is probably richer than your skin needs. 3 Howto Identify Your SkinType Begin with an honest glance in a well-lit mirror. Look closely at your forehead, nose and chin. Scrutinize your entire face carefully. Be truly honest with yourself. After all, only you need to know the answers-and the answers are basic to developing the right program of care. Is your skin normal? Yes No 1. Does your complexion have a healthy color and tone? 0 0 2. Do you have slight traces pf oiliness on your forehead and chin ... a bit of a shine on the nose? 0 0 3. Are your pores slightly enlarged, especially on the nose? 0 0 4. Is your skin firm and smooth with no sagging areas? 0 0 5. Do you have a tendency toward dryness in the area around your eyes, mouth and throat? 0 D 6. Is there a delicate network of tiny expreession lines around eyes, mouth and throat? 0 0 7. Are you under 30? 0 0 If you have answered "yes" to 5 out of 7 questions, then your skin is normal. 4 Is your skin oily? Yes· No 1. Do you have excess oiliness over your entire face, particularly around forehead, nose and chin? 0 0 0 0 2. Is your nose constantly shiny? 3. Do you have enlarged pores around the nose 0 0 and mouth? 4. Do you have flaking around your nose? 0 0 5. Do you have blackheads and occasional 0 0 blemishes? 0 0 6. Are you under 30? If you have answered "yes" to 4 out of 6 questions, then rate your skin as oily. Note: If blemishes are a constant problem, as they often are in the teen years, classify your skin as troubled. 5 Is you skin dry? Yes No 1. Does your skin have a parched, dry appearnce? Does it sometimes feel tight? 0 0 2. Is your skin pale, almost transparent and fragile· looking in appearance? 0 0 3. Do you see scattered flakiness over your entire face? 0 0 4. Can you detect the beginning of expression lines and wrinkles around your eyes, throat or mouth? 0 0 5. Are you over 30? 0 0 6. Have you spent a lot of time outdoors in the hot sun or in cold climates? 0 0 If you have answered "yes" to 4 out of 6 questions, then your skin is dry. Is your skin extra-dry? Yes No 1. Does your skin sag under the eyes, at the jawline, on the throat? 0 0 2. Does your complexion have a parched, dry, dulled look? 0 0 3. Are there deep expression lines and wrinkles all over your face? 0 0 4. Is the surface of the skin rough, even leathery, with signs of flaking all over? 0 0 5. Are you over 50? 0 0 6. Have you spent a lot of time outdoors in the hot sun or in cold climates? 0 0 If you have answered "yes" to 4 out of 6 questions, then rate your skin as extra dry. 6 Skin Care for Dry Skin CLEANSING Gentle and mild are two words you must always consider when choosing a cleanser. Cleanse your face morning and night with a cream, lotion or soap product developed for dry skin (usually a water-rinsable or tissue-off type). These products are richer formulations that help quench your thirsty skin and leave it soft and smooth. If you decide to use a face soap, select an emollient, dry skin cosmetic soap. Be sure to rinse thoroughly as soap residue can dry skin. Should drying side effects appear, switch to a lotion or cream cleanser. TONING Be sure your toner or freshener is a gentle formulation for dry skin or one that is free of alcohol. Saturate a cotton ball and gently remove the last traces of cleanser residue. This prepares your skin for moisturizing and helps give your face a fresh radiance. 7 MOISTURIZING DAYTIME MOISTURIZING This is your skin's most important beauty treatment, so make your choice a good one. Your moisturizer should be rich in emollients. Remember to concentrate on your forehead and the area around your mouth, and to use an eye cream every day. NIGHTTIME MOISTURIZING Night cream is a more concentrated form of moisturizer. It is richer by design to give you effective through-the-night moisturizing. Yours should be abundant in lubricants and humectants to produce the results you'll want to see by morning. So when you buy your moisturizer, be sure to ask for one t~at contains those ingredients. Don't forget to treat your neck to a protective veil of night cream and to pat on an eye treatment before the lights go out. WEEKLY MOISTURIZING A moisturizing masque is your skin's beauty bonus. Most of these masques are composed of proteins and minerals in a lubricating base that help give your skin additional moisture nourishment. 8 Skin Care for Normal Skin Normal skin is actually "combination skin," meaning it is drier on the cheeks and around the hairline and oilier at the center of the face. Don't let your skin's usually problem-free behavior make you lax in your beauty habits. Maintenance is a must to keep combination skin in top form. And without it, your skin will begin to show signs of neglect and aging long before it should. The right produces for you are those designated as normal-to-dry or normal-to-oily. CLEANSING Depending on your skin's tendencies, select either a facial soap or a gentle rinse or tissue-off lotion. Be sure it's the best formulation for you. Cleanse your face morning and night. If you have oily TZone shine, boost cleansing benefits by using a soft complexion brush or facecloth on oily area. 9 MOISTURIZING DAYTIME MOISTURIZING Lightweight moisturizer is best for normal-to-oily skin. Use richer formulations for normal-to-dry skn. Concentrate application on drier areas and expression lines. Gently pat on eye cream under the eyes from the outer corner toward the nose. NIGHTTIME MOISTURIZING Use night cream to help balance the oil/moisture content in your skn. If skin is normal-to-oily, you may find your daytime moisturizer adequate for night. Or, use daytime moisturizer on oilier areas and a richer formula on drier areas as well as your neck. Apply eye cream for overnight care. WEEKLY FACIAL MASQUE Select a masque for normal skin-preferably a cleansing masque. Use it once a week if you have normal-to-dry skin or twice weekly if your skin is normal-to-dry. Be sure to apply a moisturizer immediately following its use. During colder months, when skin tends to be drier, you may opt to alternate with a moisturizing masque. 10 The main objective: control shine and oil buildup so skin looks cleaner and makeup wears longer. Use highly concentrated formulations with antiseptic capabilities to reduce your chances of skin eruptions -blackheads, whiteheads, etc. While your skin may not always be on good behavior, oiliness gives it a built-in youth factor since oil helps prevent dry lines. For Extra-Oily Shine, cleanse 3 times a day or, if that's not possible, use a toner during the day to remove excess oil. Then reapply your makeup. CLEANSING Oily skin picks up more outdoor grime and pollutants than drier skin so cleanse thoroughly and often. Facial soap formulated for oily skin is your ideal cleanser. Massage lather over your face with a washcloth or salt-bristled face brush to keep excess oil in check and help dislodge blackheads. Another option is a rinse-off lotion made for oily skin. 11 TONING After cleansing, use a toner that contains alcohol so your skn will get the kind of deep-cleansing treatment it needs_ Special midday toning will also help curb excess oil and shine. MOISTURIZING DAYTIME MOISTURIZING The one thing your skin doesn't ned is more shine, so buy a light, water-based moisturizer and apply sparingly. Remember, moisture is not oil, so even oily skin needs the benefits of a moisturizer -particularly drier areas such as the neck and outer portions of the face. NIGHTTIME MOISTURIZING Traditional night creams are too rich in lubricants for oily skin. Use your daytime moisturizer at bedtime and, if you are prone to breakout, alternate it with a medicated product. WEEKLY OIL CHECK Your skin care program, morning to night to weekly, is based on high-performance cleansing. Apply a cleansing masque at least once a week to minimize excess oil. Clay masques are particularly beneficial since they help tighten pores. 12 FACT: FOUNDATION SHOULD BE TAILORED TO YOUR SKIN TYPE FOR BETTER PERFORMANCE For dry skin use a foundation fortified with moisturizers. For sensitive skin use unfragranced makeup formulas. For clear skin use a tinted moisturizer or a sheet foundation for transparent color and glow. For oily skin use a water·based liquid makeup supplemented with oil·blotting ingredients to help refine the look and texture of your skin. For blemished skin The options: Use a water·based full· coverage makeup or a medicated cover·up product applied to blemishes before your foundation. FACT: IT'S IMPORTANT TO FINE-TUNE FOUNDATION TO YOUR SKIN TONE. Before you buy a foundation, test it for color compatibility with your complexion. Foundation should be as close to your natural skin tone as possible. Apply it to your face, jawline or the inside of your wrist. Smooth on moisturizer first, since anything you use along with your makeup will affect its color. Foundation is available in rose to peach to beige tones that range from light to medium to deep for darker skin. While foundation should match your complexion, slight variations may be necessary. For example, if your skin tends toward the sallow side, choose a slightly rosy foundation and blusher to counteract the yellow cast. For a ruddy skin tone, use beige or brown tones to play down the red. Avoid rose, red and pink blusher -peach, amber and brown,are more flatterng to ruddy coloring. 13 The Black Woman SKIN: Black skn has a tendency to be oily. Proper care will help control oiliness. Since it is more susceptible to the formation of scar tissue -be gentle and don't squeeze pimples. On the brighter side, black skin is less likely to develop skin cancer or acne. The loveliest benefit is it seems to age slower than white skin. Protect yourself from the sun. Over exposure can result in darkening and swelling. MAKEUP: The key words in your makeup routine are definition, contour and highlight "Black" skin color can range from white to ebony. It has been noted that there are over 30 shade variations. Dark skin is a versatile background for makeup and highlighting. Since there are such variations of shades, you must experiment when selecting makeup. Match your makeup a's closely as possible to your skin tone. Try a color slightly darker than your natural shade. If that doesn't work, try blending shades -one darker and one lighter than your own color. Try using a transparent powder. Sometimes brown powder alters the color of the base. BLUSHER: Dark skins should use plum, warm blue-reds and tawnied shades. The same colors are flattering for lip and nail color. Avoid the bright pinks and oranges. 14 EYES: The darker your skin, the bolder your eyeshadow can be. You can use clear, bright colors. Blend color for subtle emphasis. Your goal should be luminous, shaded eyes -not a shocking color difference. Generally, plum is a good color in eyesbadow. When using eyeliner, choose a color darker than your skin -dark brown or black. NAILS: Nail polish is important as it adds a lovely accent to your hands. Choose a vibrant color. Copper, bronze, plum and reds are good for you. COLOR COORDINATION: All the colors you wear should be keyed to your outfits. This includes eyeshadow, blusher, lipstick and nail color. AT NIGHT: You can be more dramatic at night-adding vibrant; shiny highlights of gold or silver. Remember to blend well so the result will be a subtle look. Try shiny, frosted colors on your nails. HAIR: If your hair is very curly, porous and dry, massage your scalp with a non-greasy hair dressing for extra sheen. Since black hair has a tendency to be brittle and dry, breakage is common-especially at the hairline. Try using oil, pomade or brilliantine and don't forget the ends! Don't shampoo too often. Before each shampoo, massage your scalp to loosen the dirt and distribute the oil. Use a conditioner after every washing. 15 STRAIGHTENED HAIR: Chemical straightening is not recommended as it is harsh and can cause damage and limpness. If you do straighten your hair protect it from the sun, chlorinated and salt water. Coloring hair that has been straightened is very risky. Off color and breakage could occur -so be careful. Anything stronger than a semi permanent tint may be harmful to your hair. COLORING YOUR HAIR: You can color your hair but don't attempt too drastic a change. Your hair cannot take the stripping and toning involved in going blond. The color you can achieve safely depends upon your hair's pigment and condition. Consult your hairdresser. 16 SUN SAFETY The lighter your natural skin coloring, the more sun protection you need. Read labels and choose the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) that is best for you. Numbers range from 2 to 15 and higher. Each number defines the amount of time you can safely stay in the sun. SPF 2 provides 2 times longer protection than you would have without a sunscreen product. SPF 4 offers 4 times longer protection, etc. 17 GET INTO HEALTHY HABITS • Drink 6-8 full glasses of water a day. • Eat with beauty in mind -fresh fruits and vegetables, fewer fats and fried foods. • Exercise every day to keep fit. • Use fabric softener on facecloths for gentle cleansing care. • Moisturize under-eye skin more often. • Use moisturizer during airplane travel to counteract in-flight dryness. • Use a sunscreen product before prolonged sun exposure. • Try to get 7 hours of sleep every night. 18 SENSITIVE OR ALLERGIC SKIN If you develop one mystifying disorder after another: • Consult a dermatologist. • Cleanse gently to avoid irritating your skin. • Always use mild, fragrance-free products. • Use lightweight, water-rinsable products. ACNE-PRONE SKIN Ifyou're plagued by habitual skin eruptions, Because hormonal disturbance or excessive oil production causes blockage and eventually inflammation in the pores and glands, Then take this expert advice: • Cleanse your face scrupulously at least 3 times a day with a gentle cleansing product. • Use a clean washcloth or face brush to dislodge oil from pores. • Use a full-strength toner with alcohol. • Use a medicated skin care product that contains benzoyl peroxide. • Use a light, oil-blotting moisturizer and face makeup for added protection during the day. • Apply a clay masque once or twice a week for intensified cleansing. • Consult a dermatologist to manage serious problems with breakout. 19 ADULT ACNE When you're well beyond adolescence, and looking and feeling your best, a surprise attack of acne is understandably upsetting. Why is your skin acting up now? Adult acne can arise for a number of reasons: • A change in hormonal activity. • Medications taken internally. • A stressful job or situation. Sometimes acne develops after discontinuing estrogen supplemented birth control pills. Estrogen helps arrest acne and when this added dose is eliminated from the body, hormonal changes occur that can bring on blemishes. Many acne disorders can be controlled with nonprescription treatments. Read labels and choose products that contain either precipitated sulfur, salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. Benzoyl peroxide seems to work best. If your acne doesn't respond to your time and efforts, consult a dermatologist for professional advice. Adult acne is sometimes referred to as "chin acne" since breakout usually flares up around the chin. 20 FACE SHAPE-BEAUTY GEOMETRY Your facial structure is a frame of reference -a base from which to take off. Face shape determines four primary beauty points which you will be reading about throughout this book: 1 The placement of makeup. 2 Where and how to use contouring color. 3 The hairstyles that look best on you. 4 The shape of your eyeglasses. RECTANGULAR The rectangular face is an elongated square shape. Forehead is about the same width as cheekbones and jawline. SQUARE The square face has a squared forehead about the same width as cheekbones and jawline. The squared jaw is the dominant feature. 21 ROUND ~ ~ ..... .,,..,..~..' Lft'." t!\ -I ~ --------1 The round face is almost as wide as it is long, with the greatest width at the cheeks. A triangular face has a wide forehead and high cheekbones. The triangular face tapers to a narrow chin. OVAL The ideal face. Forehead is wider than the chin, cheekbones are dominant and the face gracefully tapers from cheeks to a narrower oval chin. 22 THE BEST WAY TO BLUSH Face shape determines the proper placement of blusher. Illustrated here are fundamental directions in cheek coloring based on bone structure. Learn the basic techniques before graduating to more sophisticated looks. Generally, smaller faces look best with more vivid blusher colors, while subtle tones help slim down a full face. ROUND Apply blusher in a sideways V on cheekbone, as shown, for a slenderizing effect. Blend up from cheekbone to temples. Then apply a touch of blusher to your chin and blend to give your face an added illusion of length. TRIANGULAR Apply blusher in a sideways Von cheekbone. Blend up from cheekbone to temples, then extend over the eyebrow a bit toward the center of the forehead. This technique will help to balance the width of your forehead with the rest of your face. Avoid applying blusher on your chin. 23 SQUARE -~ ~~~ ...., I Apply blusher on cheekbone, beginning at the center of the eye.Blend toward temple and apply a dab to forehead and chin tosoften the square angle of your face. RECTANGULAR Apply blusher on cheekbone below outer corner of eye and blend up to temple to give more width to your face. Be sure blusher never extends lower than the tip of your nose. OVAL t~) \ ~~~---j \....~)· i Find the most prominent part of your cheekbone, using yourfingertips. Apply blusher at that point and blend up towardtemples to highlight your cheekbone. 24 THE FAIL-SAFE THEORY The cut is the basis of any good hairstyle. You should feel comfortable making suggestions to your hair stylist about the look you want. If you find a style you like in a magazine take the picture along and discuss its possibilities. FINDING YOUR BEST HAIRSTYLE A good haircut should follow the natural flow and fall of your hair to make maintenance easier. Thick, wavy hair, for example, is naturally inclined to a layered hairstyle. If hair is straight and fine, a blunt cut and a permanent wave will give it more thickness, bounce and body. The shape, cut and style of your hair should enhance your face shape as well. Look at the sketch for your face shape and then in a mirror. Decide if a little rearranging of your hair might lend a better complement to your face. ROUND Pulling your hair straight back will only emphasize the roundness you are trying to avoid. If your hair is short, wear styles that are fuller at the crown. If your hair is long, it should be worn fuller at the neck to detract from roundness. 25 TRIANGULAR ···~~ ~--~-lj\, {,~;__"---~~-J. '\ ~.~.. A~(~ , ~~t . r· .. 2);)~ ~~3 You should wear long, shoulder-bouncing cuts to slim your forehead. RECTANGULAR Bangs that are cut at an angle or styles that are fuller at the sides give the illusion of width. SQUARE A wispy sweep of bangs across the brow will soften your face. Always think softness ... curls or waves will take the attention away from your angular edges. 26 Hairstyles that frame your face are most flattering. Simplicity is the key. The styles you choose should not be so fussy that they detract from what nature has already perfected for you. 27 Complexions with a sallow yellow cast should avoid yellow frames and other shades with dominant yellow overtones, as the effect will intensify sallowness. FRAMING YOUR FACE When chosen correctly, glass wear can enhance face shape by improving its proportion and creating the illusion of balance. Angular frames de-emphasize roundness. Choose styles that are slightly wider than the widest point of the face for a slimming effect. The bridge of the frames should be wide as well and somewhat arched. To give better proportion to the face, keep the width of frames just within the temple hairline. The bridge should be softly curved and the lower half of the frame shaped in a downsweep. 28 SQUARE Use gracefully curved frame shapes to relieve the angular structure of a square face. Frames should be slightly wider than the widest point of your jawline and the bridge arched. The lower part of the frame should sweep up toward the brow. RECTANGULAR To create the illusion of a broader face, keep the overall width of frames within the border of the widest point of the cheekbones. The bridge of the frames should be slightly curved. Because the oval face is an ideal shape, it's important not to detract from its natural beauty and symmetry. Experiment with varied frame looks to find the most suitable styles. 29 TEST Brow shape is based on the placement or spacing between youreyes. To help you accurately determine how your eyes arespaced, look into a mirror and compare your eyes to theillustrations. Highbrow Beauty for Eyes Your eyebrows can alter the entire look of your face. Whencorrectly shaped, they are as good as an expert makeover. If youfind that your brows don't measure up, follow the instructionperfected for your eye spacing. BROWS FOR CLOSE-SET EYES • Start'browline slightly in from the inner corner of eye • Arch it just beyond the center of eye • End slightly beyond the outer corner of eye -~-----·--~.' ~/ -~{_I i _,___ ~u~~ . " BROWS FOR WELL-SPACED EYES • Start browline directly above inner corner of eye • Arch it over center of eye • End above outer corner of eye 30 -~ 1' 'i\\,,,, I \ ·~· \~·cl.-._ . I -' -.. -I BROWS FOR WIDE-SPACED EYES • Start browline slightly closer to nose than the inner corner of eye • Arch slightly in front of the center of eye • End above outer corner of eye "If your brows are too light or too skimpy, feather on more color with a brow pencil. Then blend with brow brush to refine color and give a natural look. For silky brows, brush daily with a brow brush or soft toothbrush." FOR BROWS THAT DON'T MEASURE UP SKIMPY BROWS • Use brow pencil in short feathering strokes to fill in brows. • Then use a brow brush to blend in lines. THICK BROWS • To thin eyebrows, tweeze a few hairs across the length of brow. • Be sure to pluck below browline, never above. BUSHY OR UNRULY • Brush brow down, then trim the tips with small round-ended scissors. • Apply hairspray to brow brush before using to halp tame brows. 31 BROW TIP: When shaping brows, use an alternating technique. Tweeze a few hairs from one brow and then from the other. Using this back and forth pattern will help you achieve more perfectly balanced brows. TEST 1 Color your lips within their exact lip line. 2 Blot lips with a tissue, being careful to pick up exact lip outline 3 Compare tissue tracing to lip shapes in the following chart and check the one that's most like yours. Shaping-up Your Lips When it comes to makeup, lipstick is on the most·wanted list. If you're like the majority of women, it's the most frequently used item in your bag of beauty tricks. And the one that you feel the most comfortable using. But, there's a lot more to lips than lipstick. Now follow the directions for your lip shape to make your mouth more symmetrical. 32 NORMAL LIPS ~/ ~v / . / ."-. ·-·-·-· .. ---·-· ----. -. -··· Since your lips are naturally symmetrical, corrective measures don't apply to you. Experiment as you please with lipcolors and textures to create different effects. FULL LIPS ---·1 /-- ~:r:----~'/ I Apply a small amount of face makeup over mouth. Use a lip liner just inside natural lip line, defining corners as well. Use soft, medium cream lipcolor. Apply carefully to outer corners of mouth. Avoid bright colors, frosts and glosses. THIN LIPS I / / -------·--·-. ________ /_ - Use lip liner to outline your mouth along the outer edge of the natural lip line. Give a fuller look by using light-to-medium colors, frosts and glosses. 33 FULLER TOP LIP FULLER BOTTOM LIP 1 ) There are two options: You can make your fuller lip look thinner or your thinner lip appear fuller. Use lip liner on both lips. TO EMPHASIZE thinner lip, apply lip liner along outer edge of your natural lip line. Then fill in both lips with lipcolor. TO DE-EMPHASIZE fuller lip, apply liner along the inner edge of your natural lip line. Then fill in both lips with lipcolor. DROOPING LIPS ,- ~-~ "' " '· _/ f. ---' ---- Cover the corners of your mouth with face makeup or concealer. use lip pencil to subtly extend lip corners upward. Then fill in color. 34 TEST WHAT HAIR TYPE ARE YOU? Take this easy 2-step test to heiJJ classify your hair type. First shampoo your hair. After 24 hours, evaluate its condition by deciding which of the following 3 descriptions best defines the look and feel of your hair. DRY DRY HAIR FEELS BRITTLE AND LOOKS DULL, FRIZZY, ABSENT OF SHINE. Dry hair is caused by one of two things: A normal result of underactive oil glands or the after-effects of overprocessing with chemicals. When dry hair is unrelated to normal causes, self-help steps are vitaL I Brush hair daily to help stimulate scalp oils. Twenty or so brushstrokes are adequate. Overbrushing can be harsh on hair. 2 Reduce chemical hair processes, since they can increase dryness and split end. 3 Shampoo with a product designated for dry or processed hair. 4 Condition your hair after every shampoo. NORMAL NORMAL HAIR LOOKS CLEAN, BOUNCY AND SHAMPOO-FRESH Because this hair type has no special problems, it is classified as normaL Biologically, normal hair has a balanced oil activity. With proper cleansing and maintenance, normal hair should remain in good and bouncy condition. 35 OILY OIL HAIR LOOKS LIMP OR MATTED-ALMOST THE WAY IT APPEARED BEFORE SHAMPOOING. Oily hair is the result of overactive oil glands. But, at one time or another, even oily hair needs conditioning, since normal things like brushing, rolling, blow-drying and perming can be damaging. What's more, sun, wind and salt water weaken hair and strip it of protective oils. For the best results when conditioning oily hair, apply conditioner to the strands of hair only. Do not apply to the scalp area. Brushing illuminates the hair by brining out natural oils. Use a natural-bristled or plastic-bristled brush for gentle care. There is a correct way to brush hair. First, tilt head downward to bring nourishing blood to the scalp. Begin at the hair roots and work in sections, dividing the brushed from the unbrushed. Twenty-five brushstrokes will do it. While wet hair is easily detangled with a wide-toothed comb, a plastic brush on a cushiony rubber base will also smooth out tangles without unnecessary pulling and tugging. 36 Choosing the Proper Products SHAMPOO Your hair attracts dirt from the environment, almost like a filter. The cleansing ingredient in shampoo loosens dirt and oils and partially emulsifies them. In this changed state, hair grime is easily rinsed away. The shampoo you select should be keyed to your hair type and any special processes-from blow-drying to coloringthat your hair regularly experiences. There are various formulas: • extra-body formulas for fine hair • deep-cleansing shampoos for oily hair • moisturizing shampoos for dry, damaged hair Shampoos enriched with protein and other beneficial elements give hair an extra boost by helping to fill in cracks and crevices within the cuticle layer. Test shampoos to find the one that does the most for you. CONDITIONER Conditioners have a natural affinity to the hair for a purely scientific reason-positive and negative attract. Conditioning ingredients are positively charged. When these ingredients are applied to the hair (which is left in a negatively charged state by shampoo), they are attracted to the hair and catch hold of each strand. 37 THE BENEFITS OF USING A ~ CONDITIONER Conditioners are a "life-support system" for hair. They make hair more manageable by eliminating static electricity that causes flyaway hair. They help smooth the cuticle surface of hair, which produces ~..·· glossy shine. JF • They help detangle wet hair to reduce damage from pulling and stretching Esentially, there are three kinds of conditioners: creme rinses, instant formulas and intensified conditioners. Creme rinses and instant conditioners are time-saving products. Intensified or penetrating formulas are made to remain on the hair for 15 to 30 minutes for the concentrated treatment damaged hair requires. BASIC STEPS TO DEEP CONDITIONING 1 Shampoo hair well and rinse. 2 Blot dry with a toweL 3 Section hair; apply conditioner to scalp and hair. Then massage into scalp for 1-2 minutes. 4 Leave on according to product directions. (Heating cap is optionaL) 5 Rinse well with warm water. 6 Use a wide-toothed comb to detangle. 38 BASIC STEPS TO INSTANT CONDITIONING 1 After thoroughly rinsing away shampoo, gently squeeze excess water from hair. 2 Apply sufficient conditioner to cover hair. 3 Allow conditioner to remain on hair for 60 seconds. 4 Rinse thoroughly with warm water until hair feels smooth and tangle-free. 5 Use a wide-toothed comb to lightly smooth away remaining tangles. 39 TYPE OF HAIR BRITTLE. COARSE OR DAMAGED HAIR OILY. FINE OR LIMP HAIR NORMAL TODRY HAIR CONDITIONER Use an intensified conditioner twice a week or after every shampoo. Select a hot oil treatment, a creamy beauty pack or a moisturizing formula. You may also want to alternate these conditioners. After every other shampooing, use a lightweight conditioner formulated for your hair type to help guard against tangling and give your hair the clean·looking luster it needs. Apply to strands or strand ends, away from your oily scalp. Apply an instant condtttoner each ttme you shampoo and an 1ntensifted formula once a month. SHAMPOO Use an enriched shampoo for dry hair 3 times a week. Protein types are best. Shampoo with a deep·cleaning formula or extra-body shampoo. Use a shampoo developed for normal hair or one w1th built·m cond1t10ners. Th1s combmation offers the balanced amount of cleansmg and con ditioning agents your ha1r needs PLUS Limit use of blow dryers and heat· styling appliances Try air-drying instead. When dandruff is the result of an o1ly scalp, use a medicated shampoo every third or fourth shampooing 40 Important Tips for Nail Care During the warm weather, your hands get their maximum exposure. Therefore, to look your most attractive you must take good care of your hands and nails. PROTECTION is a key word if you wish to achieve lovelier hands. When you are out in the sun, wear a sunscreen on your hands. This is important since the sun can cause dryness and age spots. If you already have these spots, you can conceal them with a waterproof cover-up or you can use a depigmenting cream. Consult your dermatologist-he can lighten them by use of various treatments/therapies. PROTECT your hands from harsh detergents and chemicals. Wear rubber gloves while washing dishes, gardening, etc. The gloves should be cotton lined to absorb excess moisture. Get into the habit of applying hand lotion often-and include your nails as they become dried out and brittle. 41 Learning how your nails are formed may help you to care for them properly. Your nail is a hard layer that originates in the matrix. The matrix is the only living part of your nail. This is where your body turns protein and several trace elements into fingernails. Its only visible part is the half moon at the base of the nail called the lunula. The nail itself rests on the nail bed, which is the soft tissue containing the blood vessels that feed the matrix. To grow stronger, healthier nails, make sure you have a well balanced diet with lots of protein and clacium. Your nails grow at a rate of a totally new nail every three to six months. If you are right-handed, your nails will grow more rapidly on your right hand. (The reverse is true if you're a lefty.) The fastest nail growth occurs: On your middle fingers; in youth; during pregnancy; and if you type or play the piano. The repeated tapping of your nails on the keys stimulates the circulation resulting in increased nail production. A weekly manicure is important for maintaining healthy nails. When filing your nails, use the fine side of the emery board with light strokes in one direction. Never file your nails when they are wet as this can shred them. Your nails will be stronger if they are filed rather straight across and slightly rounded at the corners. NAIL POLISH Nail polish not only makes your hands look prettier-it also protects the surface of the nail and strengthens the nail. It is suggested that you start with a base coat, then your choice of enamel, then finish the job with a top coat or sealer. 42 (·--------... -----l \ ~~ ~-~ '----------------- When you choose a nail color, make sure it is complementary -with your skin tone as well as your clothes. Nails appear longer if you wear a light color. The subtle, light colors should be worn if: 1. Your hands are small and delicate. 2. If you have the habit of picking at your polish. You can't see chips as easily. 3. If you have short or wide nails. Deeper shades look best on long, slender nails. Rose shades make your hands look whiter. 43