C3-/^ 
 
 o? 
 
 UiiaryAnn 3 ehucke 
 (~Decoratii/ec4tt 
 
 STERL1 N G 
 AND FRANC1NE 
 
 CLA1UC 
 ART INSTITUTE 
 LIBRARY* 
 
DYEING, CLEANING, AND SCOURING. 
 
THE ART 
 
 OF 
 
 DYEING, CLEANING, SCOURING, 
 
 AND 
 
 FINISHING, 
 
 OX THE MOST APPROVED 
 
 ENGLISH AND FRENCH METHODS; 
 
 BEING PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS IN 
 
 DYEING SILKS, WOOLLENS, AND COTTONS, FEATHERS, 
 
 CHIPS, STRAW, ETC. 
 
 SCOURING AND CLEANING BED AND WINDOW 
 CURTAINS, CARPETS, RUGS, ETC. 
 
 FRENCH. AND ENGLISH CLEANING FOR ANY COLOR OR FABRIC 
 OF SILK, SATIN, OR DAMASK. 
 
 BY 
 
 THOMAS LOVE, 
 
 A WORKING DYER AND SCODRER. 
 
 SECOND AMERICAN EDITION, 
 
 TO WHICH ARE ADDED 
 
 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS TOR THE USE OF ANILINE COLORS. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 HENRY CAREY B A I R D , 
 
 INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHER, 
 406 Walnut Street. 
 
 1869. 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1868, by 
 HENRY CAREY BAIRD, 
 
 in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States in and for the 
 Ea'stern District of the State of Pennsylvania. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA : 
 COLLIXS, PRINTER, T05 JAYXE STREET. 
 
PUBLISHER'S PREFACE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 SECOND AMERICAN EDITION. 
 
 The first American Edition of Love's Art of Dyeing, 
 Cleaning, and Scouring having been entirely exhausted 
 for some time past, while the demand has continued 
 steady and unabated — the book being also out of print in 
 England — the publisher has deemed it desirable to issue 
 the present one. In it will be found some improvements, 
 including the not unimportant one of a well-prepared 
 index, without which no book for reference or practical 
 every-day use, should ever be published. 
 
 He would take occasion here to return his thanks to 
 Messrs. Andreykovicz and Dunk, of this city, for the 
 valuable article contributed by them — General Instruc- 
 tions for the Use of Aniline Colors — which he feels 
 satisfied must add greatly to the value of a book, which 
 has already received such substantial evidence of public 
 favor and appreciation, as well in this country, as in 
 England. 
 
 Philadelphia, Nov. 3, 1868. 
 
PKEFACE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 SECOND LONDON EDITION. 
 
 The Author of the Essay on the " Art of Dyeing, Scouring, 
 and Cleansing" little imagined some few years since when, as 
 a workingman, he committed to paper his daily practical 
 observations in the dye-house, that a time would arrive when 
 those observations, crude though they were, would be of ser- 
 vice to his fellow-workmen, and that he would be called on to 
 present to the public in a condensed and readable form the 
 information he so ardently sought, and so successfully ob- 
 tained ; but if this was far from his thoughts, still farther was 
 it that the sale of this work should so exceed the expected de- 
 mand, and that within a few months of its first issue a second 
 edition should be required. 
 
 This is a gratifying proof of the general merits of the book. 
 It is so appreciated by its author ; but, at the same time, not 
 without acknowledging that there are many characteristics in 
 connection with it which will not bear too closely the shaft of 
 criticism to be pointed at. There are no pretensions in its com- 
 pilation to literary attainment, for it is written by one who 
 prides himself in being a working man, and its teachings are 
 necessarily expressed in language that a working man may 
 clearly understand. A quaintness there may be about it — 
 simply because there has been no attempt to make it what it 
 is not — the aim has been to lay before the public a platn, clear, 
 
Vlll PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. 
 
 sober view of everything required to be known by those who 
 are interested in an art, the fundamental principles of which 
 have been hitherto but very imperfectly understood. 
 
 The author, with a desire to make this issue as perfect as 
 possible, has made several additions which will be found ex- 
 ceedingly useful to those engaged in the trade ; from this 
 cause the work has been very much enlarged from the First 
 Edition. 
 
 It is, however, confidently expected that the increased sale 
 will admit of its being published at the original price, though 
 containing so much additional information ; and this assurance 
 would appear to be well grounded by the numerous letters of 
 approval which the author is constantly receiving from all 
 parts of the country — by the favorable criticism of the press — 
 and by the yet more certain index which points to the supply 
 as not having been at all commensurate with the demand. 
 
 THOMAS LOYE. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 There is sometimes much useful matter contained in the 
 Preface to a work, more especially when that work is purposely 
 simplified and divested as much as possible of those technical 
 terms of which so many pertain in the chemical analysis of 
 preparing colors, and which only tend to puzzle the reader. 
 On this account alone would some few remarks be profitable, 
 but there are other reasons, in my humble estimation, which 
 should be given why a working man, as I have been, and am 
 still, should publish a book on so comprehensive a subject as 
 the art of Dyeing — a subject on which there has been much 
 written theoretically, and rightly written too, but on which no 
 practical work has yet appeared — no one ever having thought 
 it worth while to enlighten the working-man on the subject, 
 and by this means to reduce the art to a perfect system, so that 
 a man cannot go wrong anyhow. 
 
 Again, in a Preface, the writer of the book may be allowed 
 a few words as regards himself, and of this, by way of apology 
 to my readers, for any want of ability displayed in its compila- 
 tion 1 most gladly avail myself of. 
 
 I should not have had the courage thus to intrude myself 
 before the public had I not have made my trade my study. 
 For more than forty years have I been as apprentice, journey- 
 man, foreman, and now master, at work — work — work — and 
 in constant practice during that period, so that my friends will 
 admit that I have some claim to their confidence in this re- 
 spect : all this time how much I had to contend with, owing to 
 the want of a work such as the one I am now intending to 
 publish — what would I not have given, and many more like 
 me, at that time of day, could there have been a book discovered 
 
X PREFACE. 
 
 « 
 
 anywhere that would have enlightened the mind on this useful 
 art. It seemed as though all other trades had books to assist 
 them in their calling but that of a Dyer, and in this no settled 
 rules existed — a trade which, of all others, stood most in need 
 of such ; how necessary is it that the production of a certain 
 color should not be left to chance — how essential to prosperity 
 that the working of a dye-house should be methodically under- 
 stood — and more requisite still that economy in all its branches 
 should be practised. 
 
 To remedy this want is my excuse, if excuse be needed, for 
 bringing out this work, a work which in a few years I am cer- 
 tain no practical Dyer will be without, at least such is my 
 opinion. 
 
 In these pages I have given to the trade the results of a 40 
 years' constant practice, and adapted most minutely to the pre- 
 sent time: all the improvements of whatever kind that have 
 been successfully made in its every branch will here be found; 
 and added to my own experience I have thought it proper to 
 study well the writings of Parks, Bertholet, Tucker, Bancroft, 
 Thompson, and Napier, and in some few instances have made 
 extracts from their writings. 
 
 In my classification of the different branches of the art, after 
 a brief history of the silkworm, I have commenced with Silk 
 Cleaning and. Dyeing, because it is the most important and in- 
 genious branch in the Dyeing business. In this department, 
 the various alterations and improvements, lately discovered in 
 London, Coventry, and Macclesfield, are introduced. Hard 
 Chemical names I have entirely omitted. We only want to 
 understand the change made from one color to another, and 
 how to effect it properly without injury to the goods. 
 
 Woollen Dyeing is a separate branch of the business. There 
 are Wool, Worsted, and Yarn Dyers. 
 
 Cotton Dyeing likewise is an entirely different branch. Cot- 
 ton being a vegetable substance and Silk and Wool being ani- 
 mal substances — the former requires a different mode of treat- 
 ment. 
 
 Black Cottons, and Black Cotton Stockings form a distinct 
 
PREFACE. XI 
 
 trade in themselves, and Black Silk and Worsted Hose also 
 another. 
 
 Hats, Black and Fancy Colors ; Chip, Straw, and Leghorn 
 Hats and Bonnets ; Feathers, Furs, and Leather form distinct 
 branches. Many masters get a living by following one branch 
 only; bat I am glad to say there are stirring spirits in the 
 Dyeing business that are not satisfied with following one branch 
 only ; in fact I consider it a want of proper ambition in any 
 man to be content to earn a living by only following any one, 
 two, or even three branches of the Dyeing trade ; but there are 
 some men who, while they can rub on, are satisfied. To an 
 inquiring, active, and ingenious man the Dyeing business must 
 be a very interesting one, from the different and sometimes un- 
 expected results produced in trying the various processes; and 
 the more energetic and industrious a man is, the more certain 
 he becomes that he has still to learn, and the more he learns 
 the more he is convinced of his own insufficiency, and is thus 
 stimulated to acquire fresh knowledge. It is only by constant 
 working practice that he can become a proficient in his art, 
 and make it at once a pleasure and a certain profit. 
 
 Feather Dyeing I have purposely introduced into this work 
 because it is a part of our trade. In the shop there is no se- 
 cret in the art of dyeing feathers, it is the same process as that 
 of silk dyeing, both are animal substances, only the feathers 
 take more time as it is necessary to dye them when nearly cold. 
 But that which dyes the one will dye the other. 
 
 French cleaning I have also introduced into this work, as 
 it is also a part of the trade. To the amateur Dyer and Scour- 
 er it will be found both interesting and instructive, and to per- 
 sons in the country and colonies, and to such as reside far away 
 from towns where there are no Dyers and Scourers. I flatter 
 myself that, from the very explicit instructions given in this 
 book, they will be able to judge for themselves what is best to 
 do with their own silk, cotton, and woollen goods, as well as 
 their garments and furniture when dirty or faded. It affords 
 me great pleasure to be so far useful and instrumental in giv- 
 ing to the world what has caused me so much time and anxious 
 trouble to put together, and I have no doubt but that any per- 
 
Xll PREFACE. 
 
 son of a studious and ingenious mind will soon become master 
 of it. 
 
 As far as my knowledge of other trades extends, I am cer- 
 tain there is none more profitable than a Dyer and Scourer 
 where a master works in the Dye-house with his men. The 
 men are more satisfied with their day's work, and the master 
 observes how they are getting on, how they are using his 
 drugs, and what time the work takes to perform. He is, more- 
 over, ready to urge them on if they lag, or, if they get into a 
 " fix," he is there at hand with his advice and experience to get 
 them out of it, and when this is the case, both master and men 
 are mutually satisfied, and on good terms with each other. 
 Reverse this picture. The master who leaves his men to do 
 the best they can with his drugs and his work in the Dye-house, 
 is rarely satisfied with the men's work, neither are the men 
 satisfied with him. He grumbles every day, hints that his men 
 do not earn their wages, that his drugs are wasted, and his 
 work spoilt. In fact, neither master nor man know exactly 
 what a day's work for one man is, unless they work together, 
 and I defy either of them to tell exactly, however experienced 
 he may pretend to be. 
 
 In the arrangement of the different colors the reader will 
 perceive that the subject is treated in a different manner to 
 what it is in any other book he may have seen on dyeing and 
 scouring, and it is hoped the trade will be satisfied that the 
 method has not been adopted without mature consideration, it 
 being certain that a strict rule cannot belaid down to go by in 
 the classification of the different colors which this book con- 
 tains. 
 
 Alterations in colors are made by means of materials which 
 in themselves are colorless, such as, for instance, soda, potash, 
 lime, and soap as alkalies; oil of vitriol, nitric acid, muriatic 
 acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, vinegar, lemon juice, and alum. 
 The alkalies must be used carefully.; there is no rule to go by 
 in their management, except the exercise of that judgment 
 which is to be acquired by experience. The acids are also very 
 destructive to vegetable matter if not used with caution, nev- 
 ertheless we cannot do without them in our work. 
 
PREFACE. • Xlll 
 
 The acids employed mast be dilated with water. Dyers go 
 by taste, by taking up some of the liquor in the palm of the 
 hand and putting it into the mouth. By this means we can 
 tell whether we have enough or too little. Test papers are 
 sometimes used, but it is nonsense to think of these when men 
 are at full work in the Dye-house. A test paper, to determine 
 whether liquor contains too much acid or alkali, is made by 
 boiling a small piece of cotton in turmeric or safflower ; wheu 
 cleaned, a small pinch of soda should be put into each liquor, 
 for a minute or two, and the two pipkins taken off the fire, 
 then rinse separately in three or four cold waters. This, when 
 dried, is the test for spirits. Cut the piece of cotton in two 
 and put it into a little tartaric acid melted in cold water, so as 
 to make it taste, dry, and you will obtain the test for alkalies. 
 If you put a corner of the piece of cotton that was boiled in 
 the safflower and soda in yoar mouth for a minute, it will, on 
 withdrawing it, be a pretty pink, it being originally a buff 
 color. Pink saucers are made from safflower. 
 
 Most people believe that a silk, woollen, or cotton article, 
 not much worn cannot easily be injured. They are quite cor- 
 rect, but there is an agent by which it may be very quickly in- 
 jured if people are not careful, namely, the rays of the sun 
 through the glass windows. Dr. Ure, in his 'Elements on the 
 Art of Dyeing,' vol. i. page 126, in an article on the action of 
 air and light, says : u To the same cause (meaning the sun and 
 glass) must be ascribed the decay remarked in stuffs themselves 
 by the action of light. ' Among several examples which I 
 might adduce,' says Dufay, 'I might mention only a curtain of 
 fugitive crimson taffeta which had remained long stretched be- 
 hind a window ; all the parts which were opposite the panes of 
 the glass were entirely deprived of color, whilst those which 
 corresponded to the wood of the casement were much less 
 faded, and further, the silk itself was almost destroyed in the 
 discolored parts where the curtains could be torn* with the 
 slightest effort, while it retained elsewhere its usual strength. 
 This injury to the curtains could in a great measure be reme- 
 died by having the blinds down when the sun is out.' " 
 
XIV PREFACE. 
 
 I think it necessary, before this book is commenced, to state 
 in what manner it is intended to arrange the work. In the 
 first place, it is requisite that the Dye-house should be described 
 — its height, width, and length — for carrying on the general 
 dyeing business, and what coppers are wanted, and their mea- 
 surement ; the cheapest and the best manner of making cisterns 
 for water, iron liquor, alum liquor, logwood liquor, peach wood 
 liquor, sumach, boiled-up green liquor, and old soap liquor; 
 their height, width, and breadth, and what materials they are 
 made of (for I have made these cisterns with my own hands 
 twenty years ago, in the slack lime, assisted only by my ap- 
 prentice, and have had them in constant use ever since); the 
 punchers, tubs, and copper kettles — their height, wjdth, and 
 breadth. In fact, I intend to make, from the various Bye- 
 houses I have worked in and seen, a model Dye-house, which 
 shall be most convenient and complete in every respect, and 
 at a moderate expense. 
 
 The next subject will be the Drying-room. The trade will 
 be astonished at the various uses I intend to convert it to. 
 
 The glazing, calendering, finishing silks, and watering ma- 
 chines, shall also be attended to, and a minute description given 
 of each machine. The different soaps we use in our business 
 shall have their place, and my opinion of them. 
 
 The different kinds of drugs used in the trade, and a descrip- 
 tion of the best sorts, will follow. I shall give a practical 
 account how one color should follow another in the same liquor, 
 in the same copper, so as to economize both the dye-stuff and 
 time. It is surprising how many different and even opposite 
 colors may be turned out of one copper of liquor. Of course 
 the proper drugs must be put into this copper, in order to pro- 
 duce the requisite color on the work. 
 
 There is another important matter I intend to introduce into 
 this work, that of silk, wool, and cotton in their raw state — the 
 different names that are given to them in the market, and the 
 different prices. 
 
 From the prices and names of raw silk the reader will dis- 
 cover how manufactured silks are now adulterated, even with 
 silk itself; and on seeing such a vast difference in the prices, he 
 
PREFACE. XV 
 
 cannot wonder at many a fine thick silk dress, when it came to 
 his shop to be dyed, turning out, with all his care and judgment, 
 entirely different to what he expected. 
 
 Also, from the names and prices of wool in the fleece or flock, 
 he will learn the cause of one woollen manufactured fabric 
 looking better than another. Superior silks and woollens pro- 
 duce fine colors without any difficulty. You will often do a 
 day's work of woollens, moreens, and damasks, and be proud 
 of the color — how quickly and easily they were done; you per- 
 ceive by the lists of prices that you have been dyeing a superior 
 wool. On the other hand, if, in another day's work of woollens, 
 }'ou do not know the cause of their being so long about, and 
 taking more drugs than usual, you will find by this list of names 
 and prices that you have been dyeing inferior wool. Dyers 
 are generally pretty good judges of wools and silks, as may be 
 expected from constantly handling, cleaning and dyeing them. 
 
 New pieces of silk and woollens, China crape, foreign and 
 English shawls, gauzes and crapes, all new goods, are made 
 unsalable for many causes. I shall name a few. They get 
 mildewed; they become faded by being exposed for show in 
 the drapers' windows ; the more so of late years on account of 
 the plate-glass windows, for when the sun shines on the glass, 
 the heat comes with double force on the goods in the windows, 
 and the colors very soon get faded # Besides, large quantities 
 are damaged by shipwrecks and fires, and a variety of other 
 causes. These are all sent to the garment dyers to be cleaned 
 and re-dyed and re-dressed, to sell as new. Skein-silk dyers 
 do not undertake such work — it is not in their line. People 
 have no notion what a quantity of new silks, shawls, China 
 crapes, and dresses, warehousemen and drapers have cleaned 
 and re-dyed. So much is this the case that dyers' carts (dyers 
 who could not keep carts but for the warehousemen and drapers' 
 work) call every morning and evening for orders, and to bring 
 home the work that has been done. There are master dyers in 
 London who employ more than twenty men and women at 
 drapers' work only. It may be guessed, then, what a quantity of 
 work drapers require in cleaning and dyeing. Some drapers 
 take in garments and shawls to clean and dye. They pay but a 
 
XVI PREFACE. 
 
 poor price to the dyer. I shall not say here in what style it is 
 done. The drapers should not have a shawl of mine to clean. 
 A fair remunerating price for work sweetens labor, and that 
 the dyer does not receive from the drapers. The new pieces of 
 woollen goods, faded, damaged, or to be shrunk, come also to 
 the garment dyers. There is also a very large and profitable 
 trade carried on in shrinking woollens. New pieces as they 
 come from the manufacturer are very much stretched by the 
 tentering; besides, they are pressed highly, and if made up as 
 they are, spot with rain and shrink. The woollen-draper, when 
 he buys them, if he is a fair tradesman, sends them to the gar- 
 ment dyers to be shrunk and re-pressed. ' This second pressing 
 does not spot with rain, neither do gentlemen's clothes shrink 
 after this process when they are cleaned. There are numberless 
 Other sources from which the dyer and scourer procures work. 
 The reader may judge when I tell him there are more than 
 three thousand master-dyers and scourers within a radius of ten 
 miles of St. Paul's. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PA«E 
 
 Publisher's Preface to the Second American Edition v 
 
 Preface to the Second London Edition . . vii 
 
 Preface ix 
 
 Description of Dye-House : The Dye-house — Copperas, Tubs, Vats, 
 
 and Cisterns, called Dyer's Plant 17 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 * THE ART OF CLEANING AND DYEING SILK. 
 
 Short account of the Silkworm 31 
 
 Ungumming the Raw Silk 36 
 
 Directions to make Soap, Hard and Soft 43 
 
 Cleansing and Spiriting New Piece Silk Goods. Garments, China, 
 Crape Shawls, and other Manufactured Silks, for Re-dye- 
 ing and Dressing 44 
 
 Rinsing out the Soap is the next Process 46 
 
 The next Process is Spiriting 46 
 
 Now proceed to sort your Work for Dyeing 46 
 
 To Cleanse and Spirit New Piece Silk Goods, Garments, and other 
 Manufactured Goods, for Dyeing and Finishing, without 
 
 Boiling off in Soap . 47 
 
 To Dye Pale or Sky-Blue, and Whites 49 
 
 " Sky-Blue in Silks with pure neat Saxon Blue, dissolved in 
 
 warm water 49 
 
 Another way to Dye Sky-Blue in Silks, with Saxon Blue drawn off a 
 
 Blanket 50 
 
 Another way to Dye Sky or Pale Blue Silks with Paste Blue . • . 51 
 
 Description of Kettle Pegs 51 
 
 B 
 
XV111 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Another way to Dye Pale Blue Silks with Nitrate of Iron and Prus 
 
 siate, either Keel or Yellow Prussiate 
 Bemarks on the four preceding Pale Blues .... 
 To Dye Silk Waterloo Blue and Lavender, French White and Peach 
 
 " Peach Color in the French White Copper . 
 
 " Waterloo Blue in the Orchil Copper .... 
 
 " French Blue with Nitrate of Iron and Bed Prussiate . 
 Another way to Dye Silk a Prussian Blue .... 
 
 Third way to Dye Silk Prussian Blue, with Peach Body First . 
 
 Boyal Blue 
 
 Preparation of Iron and Tin as a Mordant for Boyal or Prussian 
 
 Blue for Silk 
 
 The History and Description of the Indigo Plant 
 
 Indigo 
 
 Bemarks on Indigo in its Pure State ..... 
 
 Directions to make Saxon Blue 
 
 To make an Indigo Yat to dye Silks Boyal Purple . 
 
 To Dye Silks Purple with Logwood 
 
 " Pale Pink, Full Pink, and Blue Pink, Bose Color, and Scar 
 
 let with Safflower 
 
 Directions for Cleansing and taking the Color out of Safflower 
 To Dye Buff, Amber, Leghorn, Straw, Bird of Paradise, Orange 
 Cherry Color and Scarlet, with Annotto and Soap . 
 
 " Silks Poppy 
 
 " Satin Greens on Silks 
 
 " Green with Alum and Weld 
 
 " Green on Silk for Parasols and Umbrellas . 
 
 " Silk Green with Fustic, Alum, and Blue together 
 
 " Dark Greens, Invisible Greens, and Olives in Silk 
 
 " Drabs and Fawn Colors on Silk 
 
 " Buby, Marone, Claret, Hair Brown and Bappee on Silk 
 
 " Silk Claret and Brown with Madder .... 
 
 " Brown with Sanders Fustic, and Oak Dust . 
 
 " Different sorts of Blacks on Silks a number of ways, all 
 different 
 
 " Silk Black with Nitrate of Iron and Soap . 
 
 " Silk Black with Alum as a Mordant, when it has been regu 
 larly Cleaned in Soap and afterward Spirited . 
 To make Nitrate of Iron with Iron Filings .... 
 
 " Iron Liquor with Acetic Acid and Nitric Acid . 
 
 " Nitrate of Iron with Copperas, Iron Filings, and Tin Cut 
 
 tings 
 
 To Dye Silks Black without Cleaning in Soap .... 
 Directions how to Amalgamate Soft Soap with Oil . 
 
 PAGE 
 
 52 
 52 
 53 
 53 
 54 
 54 
 56 
 56 
 57 
 
 58 
 58 
 58 
 60 
 60 
 61 
 62 
 
 63 
 63 
 
 67 
 69 
 70 
 71 
 
 72 
 72 
 73 
 74 
 75 
 ■ 77 
 
 79 
 
 80 
 80 
 81 
 
 81 
 
 82 
 82 
 
CONTENTS. XIX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 To Dye Black Silks with Argol, Copperas, and Bluestone, without 
 
 Soap, in either Cleaning or Dyeing 83 
 
 " Black Silks, as above, with soap ...... 84 
 
 " Black Silks without Spiriting ...... 84 
 
 " Silks Fast Black 84 
 
 V Silks Fast Black with Prussiate 85 
 
 " Silk Velvets Black 85 
 
 To Clean and Dip Black Velvets 86 
 
 To Clean and Re-dye Silk Velvets that are a Bad Black . . .86 
 How to Renovate China Crape Shawls, Blonde Lace, Black Silks, 
 
 Watered and Plain, Black Satins, and Velvets . . 87 
 Another way to Re-dye the above in a Black Silk Copper without 
 
 previous Cleaning 88 
 
 To alter Black Silks that cannot be sent to be finished on account of 
 
 being imperfect in the Dyeing 88 
 
 Another way to alter Dyed Black Silks 89 
 
 To Dye Silks Black by first discharing the Color by Nitric Acid . 89 
 To make a Jet for Black Silks, to be used in Framing and Wetting 
 out instead of Milk. To be used in clean Water, or in the 
 Size when the Silk is Dressing . . • , • • .91 
 
 To make a Jet for Black Silks and Woollens 91 
 
 French Puce Vat for Silks . ' 92 
 
 " Puce Spirits for the Puce Vat 93 
 
 Directions to Clean, Re-dye, and Finish 200 yards of Crimson Silk, 
 Damask Bed and Window Curtains, and 200 yards of 
 Tammy Lining of the above . . . . . .93 
 
 To make a French Crimson Vat with Brazil 95 
 
 " Crimson Spirits for the Crimson Vat .... 95 
 
 a French Crimson Vat with Peachwood .... 95 
 
 Directions for making a Crimson with Sapan Wood or Braziletto . 96 
 
 To Dye Silks^Puce with the Puce Vat ...... 96 
 
 " Silks Crimson with the Crimson Vat . . . .96 
 
 " Silks Crimson with Alum and Peachwood or Brazil . . 97 
 
 " Silks Ruby in the Alum way 97 
 
 " Tabaret Crimson without a Crimson Vat, Alum or Sumach 98 
 
 The Cochineal .99 
 
 To Dye Silk Crimson with Cochineal or Grain Crimson . . . 101 
 
 Another way to Dye Grain Crimson 101 
 
 To Dye Silk Scarlet in Grain 102 
 
 " Orange with Cochineal 102 
 
 " Silk Puce with Alum 102 
 
 " Violets from Brazil Wood and Logwood .... 102 
 
 Half Violet 103 
 
 " Silks Marone with Alum and Peachwood .... 103 
 
 " Silks Claret with Alum and Peachwood .... 104 
 
XX CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 To Dye Terra Japonica, Catechu or ditch 104 
 
 " Silks Hair-Brown and Rappee with Alum and Peachwood 105 
 
 " Silks Claret with Cochineal • 106 
 
 " Silks Yellow with Alum and Weld 107 
 
 " Silks Gold Color with Annotto, Alum, and Weld . . 107 
 
 " Silks and Furniture Amber with Alum, Weld, and Annotto . 108 
 
 Brown Amber with Cudbear, Annotto, and Turmeric . . 108 
 
 " Silk Straw Color and Primrose with Ebony .... 109 
 
 Silk in the Puce, Yat Yiolet 109 
 
 Meaning of Common Sour, as a Binder of Colors .... 110 
 
 To make a Peach and Lavender Yat from the Puce Yat . . . 110 
 
 To Dye Silk Lavender in a Lavender Yat Ill 
 
 " Silk Gray in a Lavender Yat Ill 
 
 " Silk Drabs in the Lavender Yat different ways . . . 112 
 
 To make Fawn Color Drabs 113 
 
 To Dye Silk Fawn Color and Esterhazy Drab in the Lavender Yat . 114 
 " Silk Ruby, Yiolet, and Lilac, with Orchil . . . .115 
 11 Silk Ruby, Peach, Yiolet, and Lilac, with Orchil . .115 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 THE ART OF DYEING AND SCOURING WOOL. 
 
 Wool in its Natural State 117 
 
 Re-Cleaning Manufactured White Woollen Cloths, for White, Blue 
 
 White, Scarlet, and other Colors 121 
 
 Cleaning, Spiriting, and Preparing for Dyeing Woollen Cloths, French 
 Merinos, Damasks, Moreens, and other Woollen Goods, 
 various. Colors * . . 123 
 
 To Clean forty yards of Scarlet Moreens, and forty yards of Scarlet 
 
 Damasks for Re-dyeing 124 
 
 To Clean Scarlet Worsted and White Cotton Damask Curtains, made 
 
 up together for Re-dyeing 126 
 
 " Crimson Damasks, and Moreens for Re-dyeing . . . 127 
 
 Directions to Dye fifty yards of White Worsted Damask a Pale Blue 
 
 or Sky Blue 127 
 
 Another way to Dye the above fifty yards of Damask Pale or Sky 
 
 Blue 128 
 
 Another way of Dyeing Pale Blues in Woollens .... 128 
 
 Directions to Dye fifty yards of White Damask, Pale or Sky-Blue 
 with Indigo Powder from Balsall Heath Color Works, Bir- 
 mingham 130 
 
 To Clean and Dye Moreens Pale or Sky Blue 130 
 
CONTENTS. XXI 
 
 PAGE 
 
 To Dye and Clean Blue Worsted and Cotton Damask Furniture, and 
 
 Table Covers of Blue Worsted and White Cotton . . 131 
 
 To Dye Waterloo Blue or Moreens and Damask . . . .131 
 
 To make a Woad Yat, that is a Blue Yat — a Yessel to Dye Blue 
 
 Woollens or Yatted Blue 132 
 
 Pastel and Woad 133 
 
 Directions to make a Pastel or Woad Yat — To Dye Wool Royal Blue 
 
 in the Fleece, or made up.. 134 
 
 To make an Indigo Yat for Dyeing Woollens Royal Blue . . 135 
 
 Fuller's Earth used for Cleaning the Dyeing Stuff out of Dyed Wool- 
 len Cloths and thickening at the same time . . . 135 
 
 To Dye Fast Gray on Moreen, Damask, Merinos, China Crape Shawls, 
 French Delaines, and Silks, of all sorts, for either New or 
 Old Work, and Ladies' Merino Dresses . . . . 136 
 China Crape Shawls and Silks a Fast Cray . . . 137 
 
 Merinos, Damask, Moreens, and Ladies' Dresses Gray . 138 
 
 Directions how to Prepare and Dye Green Woollens . . . 138 
 
 To Make a Solution of Tin, to use in the Copper with Old or Young 
 
 Fustic, and Chemic Blue to Dye Green Woollens . . 139 
 
 To Dye Blue, White, or Pale Drab, Moreens, Damask, Bed and Win- 
 dow Curtains, Ladies' Merino Dresses, and other Woollen 
 
 Goods, Pale Green with. Weld 139 
 
 Merino Dresses, Damask and Moreen Window Curtains, and 
 other kinds of Woollen Goods, with Fustic and Chemic 
 Blue, without any Preparation — Pale and Grass Green with 
 
 Young Fustic , 141 
 
 Woollen Goods of all Descriptions Green — Prepared first 
 with Alum and Tartar 141 
 
 To Dye Bed and Window Furniture, and Ladies' Merino Dresses any 
 Pattern, Green with Ebony, without any previous prepara- 
 tion . . . .143 
 
 Directions to Dye Ladies' Merino Dresses and other Woollen Fabrics 
 
 any Green, without any previous preparation for the Color 144 
 " to Dye Green with Quercitron Bark, Woollen Damasks, 
 
 Moreens, and Worsted Fringes 146 
 
 To Dye Drab in Ladies' Merino Dresses, and Bed and Window Cur- 
 tains of Damask, Moreen, and other Woollen Manufactured 
 
 Fabrics . . 146 
 
 " Ladies' Dresses Pale Blue, French Merino, Drab, and a Light 
 
 Drab, and a Merino Shawl Middle, to Re-dye . . . 149 
 
 Directions to Dye Two Ladies' Merino Dresses Fawn Color . . 149 
 
 To Dye fifty yards of Drab, Moreen, and fifty yards of Worsted Dam- 
 ask Fawn Color - 150 
 
 To Clean and Dye Two Ladies' Merino Dresses Sage Green and Olive 
 
 — the sage is any Light Color, and the Olive is now a Black 150 
 
XX11 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 To Dye a Lady's Black Merino Dress Fawn Color .... 151 
 " Two Black French Merino Dresses Grass Green and Myrtle 
 
 Green . . . . . • 152 
 
 " Two Black French Merino Ladies' Dresses, one Claret and 
 
 one Rappee ■ 153 
 
 " fifty yards of Green Worsted Thread and White Cotton 
 Thread Damask, and one Table Cover of the same Material, 
 
 Amber 154 
 
 Another Method 155 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing the above Amber 156 
 
 To Dye Green Woollen and Cotton Damask Table Covers, fifty yards 
 
 of Bed and Window Furniture, Fawn or Yaunterine . . 156 
 " Two Ladies' French Merino Dresses that are now Green, 
 
 Brown. Olive, and French Brown 157 
 
 To make the best Grain Spirits for Cochineal, to Dye Moreens, Dam- 
 asks, and Ladies' Merinos, Scarlet 158 
 
 Directions to make Spirits of Salts to Dye Puce and Dark Blue, in La- 
 dies' Merinos and other Woollen Goods . . . .158 
 To Dye Ladies' Merino Dresses and other Woollen Goods Puce, Vio- 
 let, and Dark Blue 159 
 
 " a Lady's Merino Dress Yiolet and another Dark Blue with 
 
 Muriate of Tin 159 
 
 To Make Scarlet Spirits for Woollen Goods the Italian Way, for Coch- 
 ineal, Kermes, and Madder 160 
 
 " Ammonia and Cochineal Paste, to Work in the Grain Copper 
 
 for Crimson Woollens . 161 
 
 To Dye fifty yards of Damask, fifty yards of Moreen Furniture, and 
 five French Merinos with the above Paste a Crimson, with 
 
 Cochineal and Spirits .' . 162 
 
 " fifty yards of Damask Crimson another way . . . 163 
 
 " forty yards of Damask Crimson another way . . . 163 
 
 " twenty yards of Green Moreen, ten yards of Green Damask, 
 
 ten yards of Green Worsted and Cotton Damask, and one 
 
 Green Worsted and Cotton Table Cover, in one Copper, 
 
 Crimson . . . . . . . . . 164 
 
 To Clean and Re-dye four Crimson Broad Cloth Curtains . . 165 
 Directions to Clean and Re-dye four Green Broad Cloth Window Cur- 
 tains ...... 166 
 
 Kermes, a Worm used for Dyeing Scarlet on Wool, before Cochineal 
 
 was brought from America ...... 167 
 
 To Dye fifty yards of Drab Worsted Damask Scarlet with Kermes, 
 
 also ten yards of Worsted Fringe ..... 168 
 
 " forty yards of Amber Moreen and three Buff, White or Am- 
 ber, Color French Merino Ladies' Dresses Scarlet . . 169 
 
CONTENTS. * 
 
 XX111 
 
 Lac, a Worm used for Dyeing Scarlets in Wool a substitute for 
 
 Cochineal 
 
 To Dye forty yards of Blue Damasks, and forty yards of Light Drab 
 Moreen Bed and Window Curtains Scarlet, with Lac in- 
 stead of Cochineal 
 
 Another Method to Dye the above with Lac 
 
 To Dye the above two similar lo±s of Woollens Crimson, with Lac, in 
 
 two coppers , 
 
 One Pink and one Pale Blue French Merino Ladies' Dresses, 
 and two Blue Damask Table Covers Scarlet and Crimson, 
 
 with Lac Dye . 
 
 " a similar lot of Work, the same Colors with Cochineal, for a 
 comparison of the time and expense of both Colors 
 twenty yards of Drab Cloth Curtains, and twenty yards of 
 Fawn Drugget Carpet Cover, with Madder, Red or Marone. 
 sixty yards of Fawn Moreen, Orange, and thirty yards of 
 Light Drab Damask Bed and Window Curtains Amber 
 Another way to Dye the above . 
 To Clean and Re-dye sixty yards of Tammy Amber . 
 Quercitron Bark, to Dye Yellows and Ambers . 
 To Dye Yellow according to Bancroft's Instructions 
 « " Amber and Yellow with Quercitron, according to Mr. Ban- 
 croft's Instructions 
 
 Weld or Wold to Dye Yellow and Amber . 
 To Dye fifty yards of Moreen with Weld . 
 
 " five Ladies' French Merino Dresses five different Colors from 
 Ruby to Dark Brown in one little copper 
 Another Method to Dye the above .... 
 
 To Dye two Merino Dresses, one Crimson and one Ruby 
 Logwood ......... 
 
 To Dye Black on Woollen Fabrics with Logwood 
 
 " a new piece of Woollen Cloth Black or Black in Grain 
 Another way to Dye new piece Cloth Black, as it comes from the Loom 
 
 without Vatting 
 
 To Dye ten yards of French Merino Black 
 
 Another Method to Dye Black Woollens . 
 
 Common Table Salt, a Binder of Colors . 
 
 Chrome, used as a Mordant or Preparation for Woollen and Cotton 
 
 Dyeing, in old or new Work 
 To Dye ten yards of French Merino Chrome Black . 
 " Orleans and Coburgs Black .... 
 " " " Brown 
 
 " " " Marone 
 
 " • fifty pounds of Wool Jet Black . 
 
 a Fast Black 
 
 PAGE 
 
 170 
 
 171 
 
 172 
 
 172 
 
 173 
 
 174 
 
 175 
 
 176 
 177 
 
 178 
 178 
 178 
 
 179 
 181 
 
 181 
 
 182 
 184 
 185 
 186 
 
 187 
 187 
 
 189 
 190 
 191 
 192 
 
 193 
 
 193 
 194 
 194 
 194 
 195 
 195 
 
XXIV - CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 To Dye French Blue Woollens 195 
 
 Another way 196 
 
 The Lyons Preparation for Crimson, Puce, Scarlet, Brown, Lavender, 
 
 and Green, for both Silks and Woollens .... 197 
 
 The Parisian Preparation for the above Colors .... 197 
 
 The Spitalfields Preparation for the above 198 
 
 Sulphuric acid — Oil of Vitriol . . r 198 
 
 Muriatic acid, or Spirit of Salts 199 
 
 Directions to Clean and Re-dye forty yards of Pale Blue, Moreen or 
 
 Damask, Bed or Window Curtains 199 
 
 Directions to Clean and Dye seventy yards of Drab Damask Window 
 
 Curtains, Emerald Green 200 
 
 Watering Moreens by Steam in a Cylinder Calender . . . 201 
 
 Description of a Friction Calender 202 
 
 Silk Watering Machine 204 
 
 Moreen Watering Machine 204 
 
 Striping Machine 204 
 
 " Utrecht Velvet, Cotton Velvet, Silk Velvet, and Silk Emboss- 
 ing Machine 205 
 
 Hydraulic or common Hot Press for Finishing Woollen Fabrics, 
 
 Shawls, <fcc. 205 
 
 A cylinder to Finish Merinos and Coburgs 207 
 
 Pitch Calender to Moire Antique Silks 208 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE ART OF DYEING AND SCOURING COTTON. 
 
 Cotton in its Natural State . 209 
 
 To Dye Cotton Pale Blue or Chemic Blue 210 
 
 Another way to Dye Cotton Saxon Blue 211 
 
 (« (i K (I (( 21'^ 
 
 To Dye Cotton Furniture Lining to Imitate Dark Blue in an Indigo 
 
 Vat 213 
 
 Manufacture of the best Starch 213 
 
 Directions to make Starch from Flour 214 
 
 To make a Cotton Blue Vat 214 
 
 To Set a Cotton Blue Vat 215 
 
 Another Method • . . .216 
 
 To Dye Cotton Dark Blue with Nitrate of Iron 218 
 
 " two yards of Pale Blue Cotton, ten yards of Yellow Cotton, 
 ten yards of Drab Cotton Green, in the same dye liquors 
 
 together 219 
 
CONTENTS. XXV 
 
 PAGE 
 
 To Clean and Re-dye forty yards of Green Cotton Lining . . . 220 
 
 To Dye twenty yards of Cotton Furniture Yellow .... 221 
 
 Second Method to Dye the above 222 
 
 Third 223 
 
 Fourth 223 
 
 To Dye ten yards Buff, Leghorn, and Amber 224 
 
 " Buff with Nitrate of Iron .226 
 
 " ten yards of Furniture Nankeen . 226 
 
 To Draw Old Colors out of Cotton, and make them .White with Oxy- 
 
 muriate of Lime 227 
 
 To Bleach small Articles of Cotton or Linen Fabric that are a bad 
 
 White . , 228 
 
 To Dye fifty yards of Cotton Furniture Pink 229 
 
 " the above Rose Pink 231 
 
 Tartaric Acid 232 
 
 Safflower 232 
 
 To Dye Turkey Reds on Cotton 233 
 
 "" Cotton Madder Red 234 
 
 To Clean and Re-dye thirty yards of Cotton Furniture Lining Crimson 236 
 
 To Dye fifty yards of Cotton Lining Drab— Three Methods . 237-239 
 
 " ten yards of Cotton Gray, and ten yards Slate . . . 239 
 
 " " Olive and ten yards of Corbeau . . . 240 
 
 " " Furniture Lining Cinnamon, ten yards of Orange, 
 
 ten yards Light Brown, and ten yards Rappee, 
 
 at one time 241 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing Cotton Brown 243 
 
 To Dye a Drab Coburg Dress Brown, and Clean and Re-dye a Brown 
 
 Coburg Dress 244 
 
 " twenty yards of Cotton Plum Color— Three Methods . 247-249 
 " a new Piece of Cotton, twenty-eight yards, Green for Um- 
 brellas . . - . 249 
 
 " Cotton for Umbrellas a False Green without Dyeing them in 
 
 the Cotton Blue Yat 251 
 
 " a new Piece of Linen Dark Blue for Butchers' use, and a- new 
 
 Piece of Cotton for Umbrellas 252 
 
 Redwood, for Dyeing Brown 253 
 
 Sumach, for Dyeing Black and Brown 253 
 
 The Walnut Shell, Rind, Root, and Bark 254 
 
 To Dye a new Piece of White Cotton Black— Two Methods . 254-255 
 " ten yards of Cotton Yelvet Black . . . • . 256 
 
 To Clean and Re-dye Black Cotton Yelvet 256 
 
 To Dye Silk, Cotton, and Worsted Stockings, Black— Three Me- 
 thods .... 257-259 
 
 To Dye Worsted Stockings Black— Two Methods . . . 260-261 
 Cotton Stockings Black— Two Methods . . . 261-262 
 
 (< 
 
XXVI 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE ART OF CLEANING AND DYEING 
 
 FEATHERS, CHIP, STRAW, AND LEGHORN BONNETS. 
 
 Feathers in their Natural State .... 
 
 To Dye Feathers Blue, various shades : Six Methods 
 
 " Green 
 
 Pink 
 
 " Orange, Ponco, and Scarlet . 
 
 Black . . . . 
 
 " Marone, Ruby, Claret, Brown, and Rappee 
 
 " Crimson, Ruby, Marone, and Claret 
 
 " Buff, Salmon, Primrose, and Leghorn 
 
 " Puce and Yiolet 
 
 " Violet 
 
 " Puce and Yiolet 
 
 " Amber and Yellow . 
 
 " Cinnamon and Cinnamon Brown 
 
 To Dip and Clean Black Feathers 
 To Dye Feathers, Lavender, Drab, and Slate . 
 
 PAGE 
 
 . 263 
 263-267 
 
 . 268 
 
 . 268 
 
 . 269 
 270-271 
 
 . 271 
 
 . 272 
 
 . 272 
 
 . 273 
 
 . 273 
 
 . 274 
 
 . 274 
 
 . 275 
 
 . 275 
 
 . 276 
 
 CHIP, STRAW, AND LEGHORN BONNETS. 
 
 To Clean Bonnets .277 
 
 To Dye Bonnets Peach ■ . . . .277 
 
 Silver Gray 278 
 
 Blue . . .278 
 
 " French Blue 279 
 
 " Light Fawn 279 
 
 " - Lavender and Slate 279 
 
 To Dye two dozen Chip, Straw, and Leghorn Bonnets Black . . 280 
 
 " Bonnets Chocolate Brown 281 
 
 " " Devonshire Brown 281 
 
 " Chip Bonnets Lilac and Slate 282 
 
 " " and Straw Bonnets Purple 283 
 
 " Bonnets and Cocoanut Fibre, different Greens . . . 284 
 
 Pearl Gray 284 
 
 To make Parchment Size 285 
 
 To Dye Bonnets Marone and Crimson . ' . . . 285 
 
 Black and Olive 286 
 
 To make Size for Black, Brown, and Olive Bonnets .... 287 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XXV11 
 
 C HAPTER V. 
 
 THE ART OF CLEANING AND SCOURING 
 
 SILK. WOOLLEN, AND COTTON FABRICS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 To Dry-Clean English, Brussels, Persian, and Turkey Carpets and 
 
 Tapestry— Two Methods . . • . . ' . 289-290 
 
 To Dry-Clean Carpets with Ammonia 294 
 
 To Thoroughly Clean Carpets— Three Methods . . . 291-294 
 
 To Dry-Clean Hearth-rugs— Two Methods .... 295-296 
 
 Cleaning and Calendering Curtains, Furniture, &c 297 
 
 To Clean and Calender Printed Furniture and Lining . . .298 
 
 To Dry-Clean Ancient Tapestry 299 
 
 To Clean and Water Scarlet Moreens . . . . 300 
 
 " Finish forty yards of Scarlet or Crimson Damask or 
 
 Moreens 302 
 
 " " Scarlet or Crimson Worsted and Cotton Damask 303 
 Blue Moreen and Blue Damask . . .303 
 1 " * " ten yards of Blue Satin Striped Tabaret . . 303 
 " " Blue, Green, or any other Colored Tabaret . 304 
 '" " Plain or Figured Satin Bed or Window Cur- 
 tains . 305 
 
 " " Damask Bed and Window Curtains . . . 306 
 
 " and Press Silk and Worsted French Damask Bed and 
 
 Window Curtains 306 
 
 Hints Relating to Color and Complexion 308 
 
 FRENCH CLEANING. 
 
 Remarks on Cleaning Silk Fabrics with Camphene . 
 
 Board for French Cleaning # 
 
 To Dry-Clean Figured Silk Damask Curtains with Camphene 
 " Blue, Amber, and Green Plain Satin Curtains 
 
 " Crimson Watered Tabaret Curtains . 
 
 To Clean Tammy Lining and Lace Fringes 
 
 To Dry-Clean and Finish Tabaret Curtains of any Color . 
 
 To Clean Brocaded Silk or Satin Dresses .... 
 
 French Board to Finish Silks 
 
 To Dry-Clean a Pale Blue Silk and a Pale Green Satin Dress, 
 apart ......... 
 
 To Clean whole Silk or Satin Dresses .... 
 
 To Dry-Clean a Printed Silk Shawl or Scarf 
 
 To Clean and Finish Three Table-Covers .... 
 
 Different soaps used by Dyers and Scourers 
 
 taken 
 
 309 
 310 
 311 
 313 
 314 
 315 
 317 
 318 
 319 
 
 319 
 
 320 
 322 
 322 
 324 
 
XXV111 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE USE OF ANILINE COLORS. 
 
 General Rules 
 
 Rosaniline. Solferino, or Magenta Crystals 
 
 Cerise 
 
 Sienna Brown 
 
 Blues, Soluble in Alcohol 
 
 Blues, Soluble in Water 
 
 Violets, Soluble in Alcohol .... 
 Violets, Soluble in Water ..... 
 Iodine Violets, Soluble in Alcohol — Alexandra Red an 
 
 Hofmann's Violet .... 
 Iodine Violets, Soluble in Water — Alexandra Red 
 
 Hofmann's Violet .... 
 Aniline Green, in Paste or Powder . 
 Prepared Aniline Green — Silk, Wool, and Cotton 
 Aniline Black, for Printing and Dyeing Cotton . 
 
 Yellow and Orange 
 
 Green, with Picric Acid and Indigo Carmine 
 
 and 
 
 Blu 
 
 Blue and 
 
 e .and 
 
 PAGE 
 
 325 
 325 
 327 
 328 
 329 
 330 
 331 
 332 
 
 333 
 
 333 
 334 
 334 
 335 
 335 
 335' 
 
DESCRIPTION OF DYE-HOUSE. 
 
 THE DYE-HOUSE— COPPERS, TUBS, YATS, AND 
 CISTERNS, CALLED DYER'S PLANT. 
 
 The Dye-house, if possible, should be sixteen feet wide 
 and twenty-five long, seven feet high, the rafters a foot 
 apart, so as they may be tentered to cool the wool out 
 of the copper when dyed, which I always do before I 
 rinse them, and it makes a drying-room at night. The 
 Dye-house must be open, if possible, at the south end, 
 well covered over, and the coppers at the other end of 
 it, with a pipe or tunnel over them, in connection with 
 the chimney, or otherwise carried off into the open air; 
 it matters little how the steam goes off from the coppers, 
 but off it must go, for men cannot work in the Dye- 
 house full of steam. The Dye-house must be flagged 
 over with Yorkshire paving-flags, and at the end oppo- 
 site the coppers there must be a drain, in one corner, 
 about a foot from either wall, with a* grating over it to 
 prevent the work or the chips from getting through. 
 The Dye-house must have a fall of about six inches, in 
 all parts, from the coppers to the grating. There must 
 be no horse or wooden stands on the floor of the Dye- 
 house to put the work on, but instead of them fix yellow 
 deal or^beech pegs all round the Dye-house walls. Place 
 them six feet from the ground, and two feet apart; they 
 are to be two feet six inches long, twelve inches to be 
 inserted in the walls, leaving eighteen inches of the peg 
 clear of the wall. I have made these pegs of the spokes 
 of old wheels well scraped, with the thick part inserted 
 2 
 
18 . DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 in the wall and the tapered part out of it, well wedged 
 in with cement and sand, and the edge is to be up, at 
 two feet apart. There will be twelve on each side of 
 the Dye-house to put the work on, and for blanket pegs, 
 and three little tapered pegs on each side of the Dye- 
 house like Puncher-handles, and about the height of a 
 Puncher, above the tub. 
 
 To carry on anything like a decent business, it re- 
 quires three coppers: a big copper, a middle-sized cop- 
 per, and little copper, with a copper flange round the 
 top of each copper ; the flange goes over the brickwork 
 in covering in the brick Hues. It is a little more ex- 
 pense, but it is very clean. Should the dye stuff in the 
 copper boil over the throat it cools on the flange and 
 goes back again without being spoiled, which it always 
 is where there is no flange. The form of copper that I 
 like is thus : take an egg-shell, and knock off the 
 narrowest end of it, and what is left of the shell is my 
 model of a copper. Put a brim to it like the brim of 
 a Quaker's hat; this brim or flange is nutted or fastened 
 to the little border the coppersmiths invariably put on 
 the outer edge of every copper they make. Three feet 
 high is a handy working size for a copper, the flue four 
 inches wide all round from the stop ; the fire-place not 
 too small. I know from experience that a small fire- 
 place for a copper is dear at any price, for you must be 
 always watching it and feeding it with coals, w T hereas if 
 you have a large fire-place, wdien once the copper boils 
 you can keep it up wif?h rubbish and a little coal the 
 whole day. The coppers ought to be set with red circu- 
 lar bricks, and when set, the bricks scoured w 7 ell on the 
 outside with a soft red brick; this scouring to be gently 
 rinsed off with a soft brush, and pointed with white rims 
 of plaster for a finish. 
 
 The supply of water for the use of the Dye-h<5use is 
 of the utmost importance to the master-dyer, it is the 
 kev to his success. Without w 7 ater a dver is of no more 
 use than a sailor on shore. But notwithstanding this, 
 
DYE-HOUSE. 19 
 
 there are few master-dyers but are as improvident with 
 their water as Jack proverbially is with his money. 
 
 A Cistern to hold water enough in a middling way of 
 business in dyeing and scouring should be of these pro- 
 portions: height, six feet, width, four feet six inches, 
 and six feet long. A vessel of this measurement will 
 hold 2000 gallons of water. It ought to be three feet 
 above the level of the floor of the Dry-house, and made 
 of bricks, flat tiles, cement, and sand, arched over at the 
 top, with man-hole, pipes, water-cocks, to command and 
 till the Coppers and Rinsing-tubs. 
 
 A Cistern for the black preparation of nitrate of iron 
 for silks, or any other mordant the dyer fancies, and 
 they have plenty of fancies, to give his silks for black, 
 should be six feet high, four feet wide, and five feet long, 
 made of common bricks, cement, and sand, with the 
 bricks on edge, well plastered with cement and sand all 
 over, inside and out ; two parts cement to one of sand ; 
 and the Cistern-Frame, with 4-inch yellow dial bedded in 
 cement and sand on the top as a finish ; a lid on it will 
 keep it clean and from the weather. 
 
 This will hold about eighty gallons of water, or any 
 other liquor you may choose to put in it. 
 
 A brick cement and sand Cistern for old soap liquor 
 ought to be five feet deep, three feet wide, and four feet 
 long, made as above. This is intended to put the best 
 of the old soap liquors in, instead of throwing them 
 away, to be used at any time for work they may be fit 
 for, heated up or cold, with a little fresh soda or ash, 
 added before they are used again. This vessel will hold 
 about sixty gallons — to be framed also. 
 
 A brick, sand, and cement Cistern for peachwood 
 liquor, fustic liquor, and logwood liquor to be kept boiled 
 up ready at hand for use, three feet six inches long, five 
 feet deep, eighteen inches wide, and two feet long, made 
 as above, will hold forty gallons of liquor boiled up. 
 The dyer need not be afraid to put boiling liquor intc 
 these compo vessels ; I have had seven of them in use 
 in my Dye-house every day for more than twenty years, 
 
20 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 and they never wanted repair. The dyer knows that 
 every time the dye stuff is put into them it must 
 strengthen them. They get a thick crust on them in time 
 from the repeated incrustations of the boiled extracts of 
 the dye stuffs. 
 
 A slate Cistern for to turn over into the green liquor 
 that is left after dyeing the green silks: height, three feet 
 six inches, width, two feet, and two feet broad. This 
 is a very useful vessel, as this very liquor will produce 
 the best grass and myrtle greens by being left in it two 
 or three days, and well rinsed in three cold waters, and 
 each water made to taste with a little oil of vitriol in it. 
 The silks that are put in this liquor to dye must be 
 taken up and put back again, and twice a day a blue 
 added, if required. 
 
 This old green liquor in the slate cistern is capital 
 dye stuff for green woollens. When boiled in the copper, 
 it will dye green moreens, merinoes, table-covers, and 
 damasks. Of course, ebony, fustic, or Quercitron bark 
 and Saxon blue will be wanted, and a little head-work 
 to help it. It is cruel to ask a dyer to use his head, but 
 it cannot be helped, he must do it. 
 
 A vessel for puce, lavender, or crimson is best made 
 of earthenware of the form of drain pipes, round and 
 straight like them, open at one end: you must take the 
 liquor out of the top with a bowl. I have had a puce 
 and crimson vat of the above description in use nearly 
 twenty years, and they are as good as ever they were ; their 
 dimensions for a dyer that has a large business are four 
 feet high, and eighteen inches wide, and they hold forty 
 gallons of liquor each. But a vessel half this size is 
 better, for when the liquor in these vats is old the colqr 
 is not so good as when it is new, and when there is a 
 small vat, there is less regret in throwing it aw T ay, and 
 less expense in making a new one — that is the system I 
 now adopt and recommend. Some dyers use slate cis- 
 terns and others use casks, well pitched inside to resist 
 the spirits. But they do not answer, for the pitch cracks 
 inside the casks, and the vat gets in the cracks, and 
 
DYE-HOUSE. 21 
 
 there is no helping it, in spite of every precaution. I 
 have been working in Dye-houses with the men very 
 quietly, when something was heard to crack like a shot. 
 On turning round to see what it was, we found the puce 
 or the crimson vat running into the sink, and before we 
 could recover our surprise or get vessels to save it it 
 was all gone: a hoop had burst on the cask, or the iron 
 rod on the slate cistern given way. So there is not much 
 to recommend these vessels as vats. 
 
 There must be four copper kettles and one copper 
 bowl. They are to be made round with oval bottoms, 
 two handles and a rim of a wrought iron rod at the top, 
 the copper to wrap over the rod, the rod is to be outside. 
 The first kettle is to be two feet high and eighteen 
 inches wide: the second, eighteen inches high and 
 sixteen inches wide : the third, sixteen inches high and 
 fifteen inches wide: and the fourth, fifteen inches high 
 and fourteen inches wide. 
 
 The coal-cellar should be as near as possible to the 
 Dye-house, seven feet high, and five feet long by six. A 
 cellar this size will hold four tons of large coal. 
 
 I find the best seconds more fit for dyers than any 
 other sort. It is no economy to have very inferior coal, 
 it occasions loss of time in waiting for the copper to boil. 
 The men can go on with their work if they have good 
 coals ; it is a competition of* men's time against coal. 
 Coal is the cheapest ; I have always found it so. 
 
 Upon the wall of the Dye-house, and under the 
 blanket pegs, is fixed, five feet from the ground, a piece 
 of wood, eighteen feet long, two inches thick, and six 
 inches wide, with round holes bored in it, at three 
 inches distance apart, into which are placed round sticks 
 — about four feet six inches long — to hang velvets over, 
 and which when not required for use can be taken out 
 and laid aside, as they are not made a fixture. Some 
 dyers use square frames for hanging their velvets, which 
 are not so convenient nor so good as the above ; hand- 
 ling velvets that are wet spoils them. 
 
 The sticks are not to be fastened in these holes, they 
 
22 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 are to be put in when wanted, and taken away when 
 dorie with. "When we begin with our velvets, we will 
 suppose they are blacks to clean and dip, we turn the 
 cold logwood liquor out of the boiled-up logwood bin 
 into one of our largest kettels on a stand or small firkin. 
 
 We put up a board on a tub or pegs inserted in the 
 wall under these velvet sticks, put our work on it, and 
 sort it ; put the poorest color in first. We never strip 
 them, as the dyers call it, but give them ten minutes in 
 this (we have a clock to go by in the Dye-house, we go 
 exactly to the minute, no guess), get up carefully across 
 the pegs, wrong side down on the pegs, put in the next 
 lot. So we get on till we logwood them all, and put 
 them on the sticks singly, not having too many velvets 
 in the kettle at a time for fear of breaking them. The 
 next thing we do is to turn the logwood liquor we have 
 used for the velvets into the logwood cistern again, with 
 a handful of soda in it. 
 
 Under these velvet pegs, two feet nine inches from 
 the ground, there ought to be three wooden pegs fast- 
 ened with cement in the wall, eighteen inches apart. 
 These pegs are of yellow deal ; three feet long and two 
 inches square ; out of the three feet twelve inches are 
 well fastened in the wall, leaving two feet out to use as 
 a wooden horse, or to put the scouring-board on when 
 wanted. 
 
 There must be three scouring-boards always at hand, 
 smooth and in good repair; their measurement two feet 
 three inches wide, six feet long, and one inch thick, 
 made of the best yellow deal, firmly bound together. 
 You must have a dry place to keep them in, so that 
 they can't get stained or dirty, or knocked about to 
 injure them. You must also have hard and soft brushes 
 for satins and velvets, and scouring, besides carpet- 
 brooms ; all these are wanted in the Dye-house ; also, 
 the framing and other brushes for the shop and dry 
 cleaning, and a small wire card for velvets ; the card is 
 a gentler method of raising the pile of velvets than a 
 brush. Near the coppers there must be two pieces of 
 
DYE-HOUSE. 23 
 
 wood, nailed across the rafters, to put the sticks on that 
 are wanted for the use of the coppers and the velvets, 
 to keep them out of the way and prevent them from 
 getting dirty. 
 
 Three Punching Tubs to clean and rinse the work: 
 They must be of three different sizes, named large, 
 middle, and small ; and four punchers. Also a winch : 
 a winch is like a reel, with two handles or pins well 
 fastened to each end of the reel. There are nuts in the 
 rim of the copper to fasten an iron crutch by means of 
 screws in the nuts, that is, the rim of the copper ; on 
 these two crutches the handles of the winch are put, 
 the goods are thrown over, and a handle put on and 
 turned by one man, while another has a stick to keep 
 the work open as it is turned out of the copper over 
 the winch, and to push it under the liquor in the copper 
 as it comes over the winch back into the copper. The 
 work must not cool on the winch or it will get heat- 
 wrinkled — that spoils the appearance of all sorts of 
 work, and it is impossible ever to take them out. 
 
 I never tack- or winch old Moreens, or Damasks, no 
 matter how many breadths there are in a job ; I open 
 them out across a puncher, and put the Dye-stuff for the 
 color I want them into the copper ; then take them all 
 up in my arms off the puncher, and put them in the 
 copper, handle them well with a stick for an hour or so, 
 the copper boiling all the time, and when done, damp 
 the fire and take them out of the copper, one by one, 
 and hang each on a tenter hook to cool and rinse, and 
 they are never uneven or heat-wrinkled. 
 
 Handling means turning over on a winch moreens 
 and damasks tacked end-by-end. New piece goods are 
 handled over a winch in the same manner, and the dye- 
 stuff rinsed out of them by a winch over a stream, which 
 generally passes through a Dye-house when in the 
 country. 
 
 Handling the work means to pass the work from one 
 hand to the other by the selvage, still keeping it in the 
 liquor or it will be uneven in color. 
 
24 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 Handling in the Copper means when single garments 
 are to be dyed while the copper is boiling. They are to 
 be turned over and kept under the boiling liquor by 
 means of two sticks, one in each hand ; these sticks to 
 be* about a yard and a half long. 
 
 Wool in the fleece, dyed before it is made up, is, when 
 scoured, thrown into the dye-stuff liquor in the copper, 
 and well boiled. There must be no dye-stuff chips near 
 this fleecy wool. The dye-stuff chips must be in open- 
 made canvas bags. It is thrown up out of the copper 
 by a fork on a u cray" to make any alteration in the dye- 
 stuff the pattern requires, or when done to drain out 
 the dye-stuff. The wool is then dried on hot-hearths 
 and well turned over. Skein wool is reeled into regular 
 hands, or hanks, as they are called, which have sticks 
 or rods put through them, and are then dipped in the 
 dye-stuff as you see men dip candles, and turned over 
 and over on these rods until you have the color you want, 
 the copper boiling all the time. Then rinse and hang 
 them up to dry on the rods in the Drying-rooms. 
 
 A good workman will dye many colors in one copper, 
 without changing the liquor in it; that is making what 
 dyers call one color follow another in the same copper. 
 Of course it must be helped with fresh drugs, according 
 to the patterns. 
 
 Fleecy wool, manufactured into broad cloths, is dyed 
 over a winch in the copper, rinsed and fulled in fuller's 
 earth, and this earth well taken out of it by means of 
 tuck mills, by a running stream; drained on a wooden 
 horse and tentered, which is the cause of made-up 
 garments shrinking when they are cleaned — they are 
 stretched so much to make measurement and width, as 
 well as to get them in shape for carding and pressing. 
 
 In that part of Dublin which some call the Liberty 
 and others Pimlico, there is a square piece of ground 
 and a building, with all apparatus for tentering and dry- 
 ing broad or narrow cloths. It is called the Tenter 
 Ground, and was given forever to the manufactures of 
 woollen fabrics of Dublin who like to use it, by a cha- 
 
DYE-HOUSE. 25 
 
 ritable gentleman, a friend to the aspiring industrious 
 woollen weaver and dyer in that city. He is no friend 
 to the poor who gives his money to the poor, but he is 
 a friend indeed that puts the poor and willing man to 
 work in the way of getting a living. There is a small 
 sum of money to pay towards repairs, coals, &c. There 
 are only two persons and their families on the premises, 
 in two small houses — a superintendent and a watchman; 
 the gates are open at six o'clock in the morning, and 
 shut at six in the evening. The persons who bring their 
 new pieces of cloths to be dried and tentered have to 
 do the work themselves, and each person has a private 
 mark or number on his cloths or goods that must be 
 compared with their entry in the book before they are 
 allowed to be taken off the premises. 
 
 The Skein-Silk Dyers have Dye-houses and coppers, 
 round and oval, as nearly like those before described as 
 possible. There are in the skein-silk Dye-houses copper 
 troughs like small horse-troughs, to lay the bags, or 
 pockets, that contain the silk in skeins lengthwise, while 
 in the process of soaping, to free it from its natural gum 
 or gluten; and troughs for dyeing the skein-silk on rods 
 to rest on the two edges of the trough. 
 
 Silk in its raw state usually takes from fifteen to twenty- 
 five pounds of the best curd soap to the hundred-weight, 
 to take the gum out of it ; it takes from three to four 
 hours in the boiling off, and loses in the boiling of the 
 gum out of it about fifteen pounds in the hundred- 
 weight, but more than its equivalent weight is returned 
 in the process of dyeing, &c. If it has to be boiled 
 twice — that is, in two separate, clean soap liquors — the 
 second boiling frees it from the impurities it is sure to 
 carry from the first liquor, and, as a matter of course, it 
 must be finer aud lighter from the second than it was 
 from the first boiling off. 
 
 A Cotton Dye-house has hardly any difference from 
 my first description of a Silk Dye-house. It must be 
 larger and near a river, if possible. The Coppers, Tubs, 
 Vats, and Cisterns are alike. A dyer having a large 
 
26 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 business has generally a small steam engine for boiling 
 the drugs, heating the liquors, and warming the Drying- 
 room. 
 
 A Drying-room for a Dyer and Scourer is made as fol- 
 lows: it ought to be twelve feet high, fourteen feet wide, 
 and sixteen feet long, at least — larger if you can ; but 
 by all means have it as near as possible to the above 
 measurement, particularly the height. 
 
 Have long pieces of yellow deal, two inches square, 
 that will reach from one end of the room to the other ; 
 knock tinned tenter-hooks in them, on the two opposite 
 sides ; the tenter-hooks are to be three inches apart ; 
 and these pieces, when tentered, are to be screwed up 
 to the ceiling, four inches apart. The ends of these 
 long pieces of tentered wood must be to the windows, 
 not across, or the work, when hung up, will stop out the 
 light. This must be particularly attended to. About 
 four screws will do to screw up each tentered piece to 
 the rafters in the ceiling. 
 
 A Stove that will heat irons for the ironer in the 
 Drying-room is very economical, for the tire that heats 
 the irons will dry the work hanging up. The Stove 
 may be placed in the centre or one end of the room, 
 eighteen inches from the ground, with an elbow at the 
 end of the room, then a pipe to run up the end or side, 
 with another elbow into the chimney. There is not 
 much expense or trouble with it, and it is as good a mode 
 of drying as I have seen. Of course, the larger the 
 business the more room is required. Where it is possi- 
 ble to have a cold Drying-room, it eases the Stove-room 
 very much. Besides, brushing and a variety of other 
 small dry cleaning-work could be done in it at the 
 windows, and the work hanging up all the time. 
 
 A Cockle, for heating a Drying-room by hot air, is 
 manufactured of cast-iron, which being formed similar 
 to a nine-gallon cask when cut lengthwise in two, is 
 laid upon the brick-work so that the hollow part is 
 underneath. At one end of the cockle is made the fire- 
 place, and to the other end is fixed a pipe made of sheet- 
 
DYE-HOUSE. 27 
 
 iron, about six inches wide — round, up, and over which 
 is built a brick chimney, about two feet square, made 
 air-tight ; it is up the centre of this chimney that the 
 sheet-iron piping runs, and protrudes out six or eight 
 feet at the top. On each side of the fire-place are two 
 square holes, nine inches wide and eighteen inches high. 
 The air enters at these holes and goes to the extreme 
 end of the cockle, and then, returning six or eight inches, 
 passes into a small circular pipe, inserted in the chimney, 
 and so on to the rooms upwards as far as the piping ex- 
 tends, the air becoming hotter the higher it ascends. 
 At the top of the piping is fixed a cap to shut off the 
 hot air or to turn it on. There are steam hot air pipes 
 also, but as they are not suitable for garment dyers, I 
 will not trouble the reader with a description of them. 
 
 As a generator of hot air, the cockle is expensive ; 
 for the room which contains the cockle and fire is 
 scarcely warm, the room next above that is little better, 
 whilst the third room becomes hotter, and the top room 
 the hottest. Now, what can be a source of greater an- 
 noyance to a workman than when he finds he is obliged 
 to go to the top of the house for the room most 
 adapted by having more heat, but the room does not suit 
 his purposes, particularly when top rooms are always 
 built less in height than their companions respectively 
 beneath] The cockle is also a great consumer of coal, 
 which makes it still more annoying ; for if you use a 
 common stove, you can heat whichever room is most 
 suitable to your work, and that, too, at little expense. 
 I therefore deprecate the use of the cockle, though it is 
 to be preferred for cleanliness to the common stove. 
 
 By having the Frame in the Drying-room for finishing 
 the silks a great saving is made, especially by masters 
 who do more garment, silk, and furniture work than any 
 other kind. But the room must be at least eleven feet 
 high, and then a man can work at the Frame with a lot 
 of trousers hanging down from the waistbands over his 
 head, as well as a lot of silk dresses, shawls, furniture, 
 or any other sort of work that has to be dried, and his 
 
28 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 head not touch them. The charcoal the Framer is using 
 to dry his silk in the Frame will also help to dry the 
 wet work hanging over his head. I have always used 
 my Framing-room as a Drying-room. I have also a 
 stove in the Framing-room for the Ironer, and she works 
 in the adjoining room. This plan I find saves me tons 
 of coals in the year, besides the saving of room. 
 
 A Frame to finish Silks over a charcoal fire is made 
 of well-seasoned oak. There are three pairs of stands, 
 four and a half inches wide, three inches thick, and 
 three feet high. Each stand has a deal foot eighteen 
 inches long, three inches wide, and four and a half 
 inches thick, hollowed an inch and a half in the centre. 
 Each oak-stand is mortised into the centre of each foot 
 to make it quite firm. Each pair of stands has a square 
 iron bar, four feet six inches long and one inch thick, 
 with an elbow at each end six inches long, and two holes 
 in each elbow for iron bolts or nuts. This iron bar of 
 the Frame or elbow is let in three-quarters of an inch 
 into the stand, six inches from the top, and well bolted 
 through by the nuts. Twenty-two inches below this 
 iron bar is another bar, of wood, also inserted in the 
 two oak-stands. These oak stands are placed four feet 
 apart, the two ends of the Frame overhanging two feet 
 from the stands, and the feet well fastened clown. On 
 the wooden bars is placed the railroad, nine inches from 
 each stand, for the carriage to convey the charcoal pan 
 to and fro to dry the work. The rails are two and a 
 half inches deep, and one inch and a half thick. They 
 must be long enough to go from one end of the room 
 to the other, and well fastened by the ends in the wall, 
 so that the charcoal pan will not run off the rails. 
 
 On the wooden cross-bar is a cradle with four run- 
 ners or wheels to run on this railroad. This cradle is 
 to hold the charcoal pan, which should be made of 
 copper or sheet-iron, three feet long and eighteen inches 
 wide, the bottom flat, with a turned-up rim round it, and 
 an iron wire at the outer edge of the rim to strengthen it. 
 
 In the stands, on a level with the iron bar, are two 
 
DYE-HOUSE. 29 
 
 round holes, two and a half inches in diameter, through 
 which passes three wooden screws with three wooden 
 nuts and handles, the nuts to be between the two 
 handles, which are to be six inches long each. These 
 are called flyers, and are placed outside the stands, to 
 screw and tighten the work in the Frame. On the top 
 of the iron stands are placed two long pieces of oak, 
 called the Sides of the Frame. On the outer side the 
 screws are mortised with a pin to hold them together; 
 the pin is to fit loose, so as that they and the screws 
 may be taken out at pleasure. The Sides of the Frame 
 are to be fourteen feet long, three and a half inches 
 wide, and two inches thick, with three pieces of wrought 
 iron, to be fastened on the back side of the Frame, to 
 hook under the iron bar, to keep the sides down and 
 shift it about in the working of the Frame. The sides 
 of the Frame are to be pinned with brass pins, the 
 points of which are to be on the two edges opposite. 
 
 The edges of the silk for framing are knocked on 
 with a heavy brush called a Framing Brush, and the 
 silk is then wetted on both sides with a sponge dipped 
 in hot water and size mixed together. The silk is then 
 stretched tight by the screws, and the charcoal fire 
 rolled beneath to dry it. When dried it is to be taken 
 off the teeth, and another width put on with the brush 
 as before; and so on until the silk dress is Framed. 
 This frame will take three widths at a time, tacked one 
 after the other. This is the whole account of making 
 the Silk Finishing Frame; and Framing is of so much 
 importance in a Dyer's business, that no dress after it 
 is dyed would be fit to be sent home without it. Velvets 
 are Framed also in the same manner, but sized on the 
 back. The pile or face of a velvet is never wetted in 
 the dressing, the stem that comes through the face or 
 pile from the back is used with a soft brush to raise the 
 pile while it is drying ; after this a little oil is used, or 
 put on a soft brush and rubbed into the pile, and it is 
 finished. 
 
 The Skein-Silk Dyer's Drying-room is nearly the 
 
30 ' > DESCRIPTION OF DYE-HOUSE. 
 
 same, but having no tenters, they hang up their hanks, 
 when dyed, on rods, and keep them shifted while 
 drying. 
 
 The Cotton Dyer*s Drying-room is the same, but very 
 high — for this reason, that when the pieces are dyed, 
 they are put across poles, and let drop down near the 
 floor, and up again, and so on until the room is filled. 
 They use no tenter-hooks for this sort of work ; they 
 use tenter- hooks for other purposes, but not to hang 
 new work on. 
 
LOVE'S 
 
 PRACTICAL DYER AXD SCOURER. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE ART OP SILK DYEING. 
 
 Short Account of the Silkworm. 
 
 It is pretty generally known to readers in the present 
 day that silk is a secretion from the silkworm, elabo- 
 rated through two small holes near the head. How the 
 worm is reared ; how it changes its condition with great 
 rapidity ; how it is supported by eating vast quantities 
 of mulberry leaves; and how the Italian peasants pre- 
 pare for the momentous period when the worms are to 
 produce their silk — are matters upon which I cannot 
 afford space to dwell at length. The following short 
 sketch must suffice. 
 
 The silkworm (phalena homhyoc), like most other cater- 
 pillars, changes its skin four times during its growth. 
 The intervals at which the four moultings, or changes 
 of the skin, follow each other depend much on climate 
 or temperature, as well as on the quality and quantity 
 of food. It is thence found that if they are exposed to 
 a high temperature, say from 81 to 100 degrees Fahren- 
 heit, the moultings will be hastened ; and only five days 
 will be consumed in moulting the third or fourth time, 
 whilst those worms that have not been hastened take 
 seven or eight days. 
 
 The period # of the moultings is also influenced by the 
 temperature in which the eggs have been kept during 
 the winter. When the heat of the apartment has been 
 
32 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 regulated, the first moulting takes place on the fourth 
 or fifth day after hatching, the second begins on the 
 eighth day, the third takes up the thirteenth and four- 
 teenth days, and the last occurs on the twenty-second 
 and twenty-third days. The fifth age, in such cases, 
 lasts ten days, at the end of which, or thirty-two days 
 after hatching, the caterpillars attain their full growth, 
 and ought to be three inches in length ; but ' if they 
 have not been properly fed, they will not be so long. 
 
 With the age of the caterpillar its appetite increases, 
 and is at its maximum after the fourth moulting, when 
 it also attains its greater size. The silk gum is then 
 elaborated in the reservoir, while the caterpillar ceases 
 to eat, and soon diminishes again in size and weight. 
 This usually requires a period of nine or ten days, com- 
 mencing from the fourth moulting, after which it begins 
 to spin its shroud of silk. In this operation it proceeds 
 with the greatest caution, looking carefully for a spot 
 in which it may be most secure from interruption. 
 
 " We usually," says the Abb6 de la Pluche, " give it 
 some stalks of broom, heath, or a piece of paper rolled 
 up, into which it retires, and begins to move its head 
 to different places, in order to fasten its thread on every 
 side. All this work, though it looks to a bystander 
 like confusion, is not without design. The caterpillar 
 neither arranges its threads nor disposes one over an- 
 other, but contents itself with distending a sort of cotton 
 or floss to keep off the rain ; for Nature having ordained 
 silk worms to work under trees, they never change their 
 method, even when they are reared in our houses. 
 
 " When my curiosity led me to know how they spun 
 and placed their beautiful silk, I took one of them, and 
 frequently removed the floss with which it first attempted 
 to make itself a covering ; and as by this means I weak- 
 ened it exceedingly, when it at last became tired of 
 beginning anew, it fastened its threads on the first thing 
 it encountered, and began to spin very regularly in my 
 presence, bending its head up and down, and crossing 
 to every side. It soon confined its movements to a very 
 
SILK DYEING. 33 
 
 contracted space, and, by degrees, entirely surrounded 
 itself with silk; and the remainder of its operations be- 
 came invisible, though these may be understood from 
 examining the work after it is finished. In order to 
 complete the structure, it must draw out of the gum- 
 bag a more delicate silk, and then with a stronger gum 
 bind all the inner threads over one another. 
 
 " Here, then, are three coverings entirely different, 
 which afford a succession of shelter. The outer loose 
 silk, or floss, is for keeping off the rain ; the fine silk in 
 the middle prevents the wind from causing injury; and 
 the glued silk, which composes the tapestry of the 
 chamber where the insect lodges, repels both air and 
 water, and prevents the intrusion of cold. 
 
 " After building her cocoon, she divests herself of her 
 fourth skin, and is transformed into a chrysalis, and 
 subsequently into a moth, when, without saw or centre- 
 bit, she makes her way through the shell, the silk, and 
 the floss ; for the Being who teaches her how to build 
 herself a place of rest, where the delicate limbs of the 
 moth may be formed without interruption, instructs her 
 likewise how to open a passage for escape. 
 
 "The cocoon is like a pigeon's egg^ and more pointed 
 at one end than the other ; and she never fails, when 
 her labor is finished, to fix her head opposite the pointed 
 extremity. The reason of her taking this position is, 
 that she has purposely left this part less strongly ce- 
 mented, and less exactly closed. She is instinctively 
 conscious that this is to be the passage for the perfect 
 insect which she carries in her bowels, and has therefore 
 the additional precaution never to place this pointed 
 extremity against any substance that might obstruct 
 the moth at the period of its egress. 
 
 "When the caterpillar has exhausted herself to 
 furnish the labor and materials of the three coverings, 
 she loses the form of a worm, her spoils drop all around 
 the chrysalis ; first throwing off her skin, with the head 
 and jaws attached to it, and the new skin hardening 
 into a sort of leathery consistence. Its nourishment 
 3 
 
34 love's dyer and scourer.. 
 
 is already in its stomach, and consists of a yellowish 
 mucus, but gradually the rudiments of the moth unfold 
 themselves — the wings, the antennae, and the legs be- 
 coming solid. In about a fortnight or three weeks, a 
 slight swelling in the chrysalis may be remarked, which 
 at length produces a rupture in the membrane that 
 covers it, and by repeated efforts the moth bursts 
 through the leathery envelope into the chamber of the 
 cocoon. 
 
 "The moth then extends her antennae, together with 
 her head and feet, towards the point of the cone, which 
 not being thickly closed up in that part gradually yields 
 to her efforts ; she enlarges the opening, and at last 
 comes forth, leaving at the bottom of the cone the ruins 
 of its former state — namely, the head and entire skin of 
 the caterpillar, which bear some resemblance to a heap 
 of foul linen." * 
 
 The length of the unbroken thread in a cocoon varies 
 from six hundred to a thousand feet ; and as it is all 
 spun double by the insect, it will amount to nearly two 
 thousand feet of silk, the whole of which does not weigh 
 above three grains and a half; five pounds of silk from 
 ten thousand cocoons is considerably above the usual 
 average. It has been estimated that the original silk 
 filaments, as elaborated by the insect, would require 
 nearly five hundred miles of length to weigh one pound. 
 When we consider, therefore, the enormous quantity of 
 silk which is used at present, the number of worms 
 employed in producing it will almost exceed our com- 
 prehension. The manufacture of the silk, indeed, gives 
 employment and furnishes subsistence, to several mil- 
 lions of human beings ; and we may venture to say, that 
 there is scarcely an individual in the civilized world 
 who has not some article made of silk in his possession. 
 
 In ancient times, the manufacture of silk was con- 
 fined to the East Indies and China, where the insects 
 that produce it are indigenous. It was thence brought 
 to Europe in small quantities, and in early times sold at 
 so extravagant a price, that it was deemed too expensive 
 
SILK DYEING. 35 
 
 even for royalty. The Emperor Aurelian assigned the 
 expense as a reason for refusing his empress a robe of 
 silk ; and our own James I., before his accession to the 
 crown of England, had to borrow of the Earl of Mar a 
 pair of silk stockings to appear in before the English 
 ambassador, a circumstance which probably led him to 
 promote the cultivation of silk in England. 
 
 The manufacture of silk was introduced into this, 
 country in 1718, at Derby, by Mr. John Lumbe, who 
 travelled into Italy to obtain the requisite information ; 
 but so jealous were the Italians of this, that according 
 to some statements which have obtained belief, he fell 
 a victim to their revenge, having been poisoned at the 
 early age of twenty-nine. 
 
 The use of silk is said to have been well known in 
 the East some thousands of years before it was known 
 in Europe. The Chinese to this day take the gum out 
 of their silk without soap or any alkali, and do not 
 injure it in dping so. The Nankin silk is much finer 
 than what we produce in Europe, although the silk- 
 worm is alike all over the world. They keep this art 
 to themselves — we cannot do it like them. No one can 
 deny that the colors of their shawls, silks, and handker- 
 chiefs are excellent. 
 
 The East India Company has for many years employed 
 more than half a million of persons in India in hatching 
 and tending silkworms and manufacturing silk. The 
 annual consumption of silk in Europe is more than ten 
 millions of pounds ; and taking the average market-price 
 in London this year (1854) of China silk at 10s. 6d., 
 Bengal at 10.9., Persian at 10s. 6d, and Italian at 20s., 
 the average price of each pound of raw or unmanufactured 
 silks may be reckoned at 1 5s. Only think for a moment 
 what a quantity of eggs, worms, and mulberry trees, and 
 what a number of men, women, and children are employed 
 to produce this weight of silk ! Then come the silk 
 factors, the dyers, the silk throwsters, the weavers, and 
 numbers of other trades and callings, all dependent on 
 the protection of this little creature, less than three 
 
36 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 inches long; and what attention must be paid to it to 
 keep up the supply! It is a well-known fact that the 
 bones of pigs become dyed red by eating madder in the 
 countries where madder grows. This has led some scien- 
 tific breeders of the silkworm to try pure ground indigo, 
 slightly sprinkled on the mulberry leaves; and the re- 
 sult is that the worms fed on them have produced a blue 
 silk thread. Other experiments are being tried in feed- 
 ing, to produce a variety of colors, which, if successful, 
 will save us poor Dyers a great deal of trouble which 
 we do not want. 
 
 Ungumming the Raw Silk. 
 
 Silk as it is taken from the worm is an oily and resin- 
 ous substance, with a thick coating of gum on it, and it 
 is a vaunterine or red fawn color. In this state it is 
 unfit, except in some cases, to be sent to the weaver to 
 be made into fabrics. It is true that nearly in this state 
 it is dyed many colors ; for in this ungummed state it 
 does not lose any of its weight, as it does by boiling off 
 the gum. The dye-stuff it absorbs w 7 hile the gum is in 
 it adds to its weight considerably. It may be dyed with 
 the gum in it, as the Dyers call it, with any degree of heat 
 up to a scald, and with any dye-stuff, without disturbing 
 the gum. All of the different sorts of gum in use are 
 dissolved by hot or cold water, or any other liquid; but 
 the silkworm gum, or resin, defies all liquors, hot or cold, 
 and cannot be taken out of the silk by any safe means 
 yet found out in Europe, except by boiling in soap, or 
 an alkali. 
 
 Pot-ash, pearl-ash, or soda — any of the three — will 
 take the gum out of it by boiling in a copper. They 
 will not remove it either in a cold, warm, or scalding 
 state ; it must be boiled out by the agency of any one of 
 the three, or by the agency of all three in one copper, if 
 you like. The three together will not do it any more 
 injury than either of them by itself w T ould. Great cau- 
 tion must be exercised in using these alkalies, as one 
 
SILK DYEING. 37 
 
 pound of pot-ash is as strong as ten pounds of soda, and 
 one pound of pearl-ash is equal to five pounds of soda. 
 The copper must be boiling hot before any of the above 
 alkalies are put in. Greater caution is necessary than 
 in using soap. 
 
 In freeing the silk from the gum by these means you 
 injure the silk; because there is no oil in these alkalies, 
 and the gum cannot be dissolved without an alkali. 
 Diluted spirit of any kind will not in the least affect it. 
 
 The simplest and the best way to take the gum out 
 of the silk is by soap, pure as it comes from the maker's, 
 without any addition of alkali. The gum is gently dis- 
 solved by the soap, and the fat or oil that is in it nour- 
 ishes the silk, as it does all animal substances. 
 
 The silk, as it comes from the worm, is reeled into 
 hanks, and an oval copper, full of pure clean water, got 
 on to boil, with about a quarter of a pound of the best 
 mottled soap cut in pieces to one pound of silk. The 
 copper must be kept well stirred with a stick until 
 every bit of the soap is melted. It is now a strong soap 
 liquor, boiling hot, the copper door is opened, and the 
 fire damped down, with only sufficient to keep it up to 
 a scald. 
 
 The skeins, as I said before, are reeled off into hanks, 
 which are put on rods that will rest across the oval cop- 
 per; the skeins of silk are then put on the rods, each 
 skein to be kept nicely apart, and that portion which 
 hangs down from the rod is dipped into the soap liquor, 
 the Dyer holding the two ends of the rod, and resting 
 them on the sides of the copper, and so leaving these 
 skeins on this first stick to swim down in the soap liquor. 
 He then takes rod after rod and does the same with them 
 until he has filled his copper. 
 
 This done, he begins with the first rod, and turns the 
 skein bottom upwards, and so goes on regularly one 
 after the other until he comes to the last one he put in 
 the copper. By this time, the gum on the silk begins 
 to dissolve, and the silk to glisten ; the gum, losing its 
 stiffness and giving way, the hanks lose their bulk, and 
 
38 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 the silk drops straight down into the copper. It is 
 done now, as far as the first soap liquor is concerned, 
 and the rods with the silk hanging on them are taken 
 out of the copper and put on the pegs to drain and cool, 
 and to be opened and combed gently down with the 
 fingers, the skeins still hanging on the pegs. 
 
 The next process is the boiling off. Each skein of 
 silk is loosely tied at the ends as they hang on the peg ; 
 this is done to keep them from mixing or tangling while 
 boiling in the bags in the copper, as well as for the 
 Dyer to lift them out of the bag when he opens it at 
 the side. O.n the second boiling, he has only to lift up 
 each skein by the cord and put it to drain on the pegs, 
 If he did not cord them they would get entangled, and 
 all in a jumble in the pockets while- boiling off. Nine 
 or ten of these hanks are put in a linen bag, or pocket, 
 as Dyers call it. The bags are about four feet long 
 and three feet wide, sewed up at each end and on one 
 side, the other side being left open. The pocket, in 
 this state, is laid flat on a board, the unsewn part up- 
 wards. The skeins of silk are placed lengthwise in it, 
 and about twenty pounds weight of silk put into it. 
 The bag is now sewn up with twine, and is ready to be 
 put into the copper. 
 
 A copper is got on with clean water, and half the 
 quantity of soap used for the first liquor is cut into it. 
 It is now made to boil, and the soap well melted ; the 
 bags are thrown in the soap copper, and well boiled for 
 an hour, the Dyer not leaving it for a minute, but stir- 
 ring the bags with a stick and keeping them well up 
 from the bottom and under the liquor. The bags will 
 stick to the copper if they are not well watched. When 
 the time is up, take out the bags, which are thrown 
 out on a wooden rail with four handles to it, that two 
 men can carry from the top of the copper to the pegs 
 the other side the Dye-house; the end of the cord is 
 now cut in the pocket hole, the string is drawn out, the 
 Dyer takes hold of the cord that ties the silks in the 
 bags, and lifts them up on the pegs to drain, and nicely 
 
SILK DYEING. 39 
 
 combs and stretches them down with his fingers while 
 they are cooling, and begins to sort them for their re- 
 spective colors, taking the whites first. 
 
 Silk with the gum in it as it comes from the worm is 
 boiled in pure clean water by the Dyer for particular 
 purposes, but not for particular colors ; very far from it, 
 it loses about an eighth of its weight by this boiling, 
 and leaves the liquor it is boiled in a dingy fawn color. 
 This water boiling reduces the gum of the silk, and 
 makes it very porous. By this process the silk does 
 not show any lustre ; it makes olives, dark browns, and 
 blacks quicker, cheaper, and heavier than when boiled 
 in soap. Cheap silks thus prepared are worked in the 
 loom by the weaver thus : one thread that is boiled in 
 water for the backs of velvets, silks, and satins, and one 
 thread that is boiled in soap for the face of them. 
 
 Cheap raw silks intended for cheap fabrics are taken 
 in skeins and tied gently at each end ; the bags laid flat, 
 the skeins laid lengthwise; the pocket-hole sewn up, 
 twenty pounds of silk to each bag, and thirty pounds of 
 soap to the hundred-weight of silk in the copper. The 
 copper, an oval one, is got on to a boil, and the soap 
 well melted. Now the bags are thrown in and boiled 
 well for four hours, the Dyer never leaving the copper 
 all this time, but stirring them with a long thick stick, 
 keeping them under the boiling liquor, and well up 
 from the sides and bottom of the copper. The gum 
 that is leaving the silk is forcing itself through the sack 
 in the boiling copper, and would fasten in a minute to 
 the bottom and sides of it if not well stirred and watched. 
 In boiling the gum out of the silks they lose a quarter 
 of their weight, which the dyeing makes good, and more 
 than good, for they tan it with sumach, sal japonica, or 
 cutch ; and it is usual for a Dyer to return to the silk 
 manufacturer double the weight of raw silk he had to 
 dye. Nearly all drabs, clarets, blacks, and browns are 
 tanned, or, more properly speaking, stuffed, at least one 
 thread is done so. 
 
 When the boiling-off time is up, the copper fire is 
 
40 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 drawn out, the ladder is thrown across the copper, the 
 bags one by one are thrown upon it and carried to the 
 pegs, the pocket is cut, the string drawn out, and the 
 Dyer lifts the silks across the Dye-house to the peg and 
 hangs them up. While hanging up and cooling, he 
 passes his fingers through them. They are now ready 
 for dyeing any color as common silks. 
 
 It is my intention to follow the orders the Dyer re- 
 ceives from his employer in the Dye-house, and take 
 the silks after boiling the gum out of them, the whites 
 of course first. There is one white that is made from 
 the silk in its natural state without any sort of boiling, 
 which I think ought to be first. 
 
 You must choose from the skeins the palest-colored 
 hanks; wet them in very hot clean water, with a little 
 blue in it ; wring them out of this, and sulphur them in 
 a very close, small, low room, made air-tight. Raw 
 brimstone in lumps — not ground brimstone, must be 
 used. The room must be air-tight ; chimney and win- 
 dows stopped ; even the key-hole must be closed. 
 
 Put the brimstone in an iron pot on the ground ; throw 
 a small lump of red-hot iron into it, and gather the 
 pieces of brimstone round it, and escape out of the room 
 quickly, closing all the places after you. Next morning, 
 when the fumes of the brimstone are exhausted, open 
 the door and windows, and let the fresh air in. Take 
 your silks down to the Dye-house, give them another 
 warm water with blue in it, and brimstone them again. 
 All depends on what sort of a white you want, whether 
 you use blue again in wetting your silks out, or whether 
 you are obliged to wet them out and sulphur them a 
 third time. You can make them any dead or blue 
 white you like while you are about it ; all depends on 
 your orders. 
 
 The silk, in its raw state, made white by sulphuring, 
 is to be woven into the backs of white satins, white 
 watered silks, crapes, and gauses ; and like white flannel, 
 turns yellowish every time it is cleaned if any heat is 
 used in the cleaning. White silks or flannels ought 
 
SILK DYEING. 41 
 
 never to be wetted in any liquor without having a little 
 blue and melted curd soap in it, and should be done 
 with dispatch, and hung up to dry in a warm room 
 directly. 
 
 The best silks that have been boiled off in soap to 
 take the gum out of them, intended for a blue white, 
 must be azured, as we Dyers call it ; that means it is to 
 have a little blue in spring water, wrung out, and hung 
 on rods in the sulphuring-room, the windows and doors 
 closed, brimstone set alight, and left safe for the night. 
 In the morning, if the white is not what you like, the 
 process is to be repeated. 
 
 Silk is not to be sulphured for any other colors 
 except for blue and white. The sulphur destroys all 
 dye-stuffs. We can take it out with an alkali if we 
 wish, but it is seldom done unless we spoil a white or 
 a blue, and want to make it some other color, except 
 green. 
 
 There are Milk White, Blue White, Pure White, 
 Pink White, Flesh White, China White, and French 
 White. All these Whites are done in different ways, 
 which I shall proceed to describe. 
 
 1. Blue White. — The copper is got on with clean 
 water, and, when boiling, is made a nice thin liquor 
 with curd soap ; the silks are sorted, and put on the 
 pegs for the different Whites to be dyed. Those for 
 blue white are put on the rods. The copper door is 
 opened, the fire gently damped, the copper kept all but 
 boiling, there being nothing in it but clean soap and 
 water. The dyer holds each end of the rod in his 
 hands, and dips the silks in the liquor ; lets them stop 
 in for five minutes, turning them bottom upwards on 
 the rod, and giving them five minutes more. Placing 
 this lot on the pegs to drain, you put a little blue in 
 spring water, and put the silks in it, and pass them 
 over the rod until you have the shade of white you want. 
 Wring them out of this, and hang them up in the sul- 
 phuring-room to whiten. 
 
 2. The next in the same copper is Pure White. Do 
 
42 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 the same with this as you did with the above, but give 
 it no blue in the rinsing ; wring it up and hang in the 
 sulphuring-room to whiten. These two whites, blue, 
 and pale, must be regularly sulphured. 
 
 3. The next is Milk White in the same copper and 
 the same liquor. Do exactly the same with this as you 
 did with the other two — with this exception, it is not 
 to be hung in the sulphuring-room, but wrung and 
 hung up in the regular drying-room. 
 
 4. The next in the same copper and the same liquor 
 is the Pink White. This color some Dyers make with 
 the extract of safflower, others cudbear, and others 
 orchil. For the sake of economy, we will take cudbear, 
 because the French whites and peaches will follow in 
 this copper. The proportion of cudbear must be ac- 
 cording to the quantity of work you have to dye pink 
 white. Put the cudbear into a fine muslin bag, give it 
 a boil in the copper, until you get what color you want 
 out of it, take it out and put in your silk as above, 
 keeping it turned on the rods till you get the required 
 color ; get it up to drain, rinse in weak sour, and hang 
 up in regular stove-room. 
 
 5. The French White and Peach in the same copper 
 and the same dye-stuff. The peach wants more cudbear 
 than the French white. Give the silks time and turning 
 on the rods, rinse without sour, and hang up in regular 
 stove- room. 
 
 6. The Flesh White is done with annotto in a bag 
 the same as the cudbear, but there must be a clean 
 soap-liquor copper for this color. Act in the dyeing with 
 this as you did with the preceding whites. ' Many other 
 colors can be dyed in this copper, but I must confine 
 myself to whites now. 
 
 I commenced the art of dyeing silk with a history of 
 the silkworm, and then described the method of dis- 
 charging the gum out of the thread. Unless this could 
 be done, and done safely, the production of the silk- 
 worm would be of very little service to mankind. 
 Having treated these two important subjects with the 
 
SILK DYEING. 43 
 
 best of my ability, the next was that of the different 
 Whites, with the gum in and the gum out of the silk, 
 being the finish of the process of boiling off in soap and 
 water. I must now begin with the method of cleansing 
 the new piece goods, China crape shawls, crapes, gauses, 
 garment work, and describing the different soaps, cop- 
 pers, and processes they have to go through before they 
 are fit to be dyed. My reason for so doing is, that what- 
 ever dye-stuff is used to produce any color in the new 
 skein silks, exactly the same must be used when silks 
 are produced from the weaver's loom or in garments. 
 
 Having carried my reader through a description of 
 cleansing new silks, I must for his further information 
 give him a description of cleansing the old silk work 
 for re-dying and re-dressing, and begin first with : — 
 
 Direction to make Soap, Hard and Soft. 
 
 To make soap it is necessary to employ a fixed alkali 
 in a caustic state. Spanish barilla or Scotch kelp is 
 broken in pieces, and when mixed with a sufficient 
 quantity of quicklime to absorb the carbonic acid, the 
 whole is thrown into large iron or wooden vats covered 
 w r ith water ; at a proper time the water with the caustic 
 alkali is let off into iron receivers below, and the vats 
 are covered again with water and well raked, and after 
 standing for a night it is let off as before. This is 
 called soap-boilers' lye. Russian or English tallow is 
 put into a large iron boiler and melted with a portion 
 of this lye. At first the tallow appears liquid like oil, 
 but while boiling it acquires by degrees consistence ; 
 when the alkali is combined with the tallow, the weak 
 liquor is pumped from under the soap, and fresh lye is 
 put in its stead ; this is boiled as before till the, soap 
 exhibits certain appearances well known to the maker ; 
 it is then cooled down, and poured into deep wooden 
 frames, fifteen inches wide and forty-five inches long, 
 where it lies until it is hard enough to cut up into bars 
 for sale. In making yellow soap, resin is used in about 
 
44 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 one part to three or four parts of tallow ; common fish 
 oil is also used to make yellow soap. In making soft 
 soap, potash is the alkali made use of in boiling in the 
 copper with the oil, and when a complete union of the 
 materials is formed, the whole is poured into small casks 
 for sale. — Parkes's " Chemical Catechism." 
 
 Potash had its name from burning vegetables in iron 
 pots to make it. 
 
 A soap-boiler's shop with soap in. it was discovered 
 in the city of Pompeii, overwhelmed by Vesuvius, 
 A. D. 79. Most of the people in the Shetland Islands, 
 the Highlands of Scotland, and the coast in different 
 parts of Ireland, are supported by collecting seaweeds, 
 and burning them into kelp. Sal Soda got its name 
 from a plant which grows on the Spanish coast, and 
 which is burnt for its preparation and sale. 
 
 Cleansing and Spiriting New Piece Silk Goods, Garments, 
 China Crape Shawls, and other Manufactured Silks for 
 Re-dyeing and Dressing. 
 
 In describing how the work is to be cleansed and dyed, 
 I imagine myself in the Dye-house, giving orders to the 
 men under me how to do it properly. My long expe- 
 rience and constant practice give me confidence, and I 
 actually fancy I am performing the work, whilst writing 
 down how it should be done. 
 
 Get the big copper on to a boil with pure clean water. 
 Have your mottled soap or Field's palm oil soap melted 
 the night before. Get your three copper kettles on 
 stands under the pegs. Put in each copper kettle three 
 pails of boiling water and two copper bowls full of your 
 melted soap. No soda ought to be used. 
 
 Take your silks into the Dye-house, put them on a 
 board and sort them. Take the whites and pale blues 
 first ; next the pinks. Pass these through the three soap 
 liquors in the kettles, one after the other. When these 
 silks are folded up on a puncher, give them to your 
 workmen to scour over the board both sides with a silk 
 
SILK DYEING. 45 
 
 brush. While they are cleansing the silks over the 
 board you must continue at the copper kettle with the 
 next lightest silks, to get them ready for the men at the 
 scouring-board to go on cleansing, until all the silks are 
 cleansed and ready for a very gentle boil in a clean, 
 thin, melted, hard-curd, or Field's palm soap liquor. 
 The men at the board must keep the silks they are 
 cleansing apart. You must see that that is attended to, 
 as the different colors, lying together, will stain one 
 another. Your copper must be very clean, filled with 
 clean water, and quite boiling before you begin to boil 
 off your work. 
 
 Have clean round sticks made for this purpose only ; 
 they are called boiling-off sticks, and must not be used 
 for anything else. They are about four feet six inches 
 long, and made of beech. 
 
 I now come to sort the work on the horse, taking the 
 white, pale blues, and pinks first into the boil. They 
 must be well opened before they are put in the copper, 
 and gently pushed down and kept under the liquor 
 with the sticks, and not allowed to rest on the sides or 
 bottom of the copper, nor left until they are done, which 
 will be in ten minutes; not longer, as that is time 
 enough to give them to boil in the soap liquor. 
 
 Have one of the punching-tubs half full of clean warm 
 water with melted soap in it, so as to make a thin soap 
 liquor of it. Put one of your punchers on it. Take 
 your silk-sticks, put them under your silks in the copper, 
 lift them all out at once into your thin soap liquor in 
 the punching-tub, put them under the liquor and leave 
 them for the present, and get your next lightest lot into 
 the boil. Put them under the liquor and stir them 
 occasionally while you are folding up those that are in 
 the thin liquor on the puncher-bead. When your first 
 boil is folded up, hang them on one of the pegs in the 
 wall which I have before described in my plan of the 
 Dye-house. 
 
 Get up the second lot of silks that are in the boil 
 into the thin soap liquor. Get another lot into the 
 
46 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 copper. Fold up on puncher-head out of the thin 
 liquor. Put these on another clean peg in the wall. 
 Keep your eye on your men, and so on, until all your 
 silks are boiled off and on the pegs. 
 
 Rinsing out the Soap is the next Process. 
 
 Cleanse your Dye-house board, tubs, kettles, and 
 spare pegs free from soap. Have three punching-tubs 
 full of clean warm water, and a puncher on each tub. 
 Begin with your first boil in the first water, fold up on 
 puncher-head out of this, and so go on until you have 
 given them the three waters and put them on a clean 
 peg. Proceed with the rest of your silks until they 
 have gone through the three waters, and are cleanly 
 and safely on the pegs. 
 
 The next Process is Spiriting. 
 
 Scour out the big copper kettle, and dry it. Put a 
 small tea-cupful of neat oil of vitriol into it, and five or 
 six pailfuls of boiling water on it. Have a clean stick, 
 and begin spiriting your first boil of silks ; open them 
 well, put them one by one in the kettle, push them 
 down with your spirit-stick; handle them for five 
 minutes, fold up, rinse in two clean cold waters, put 
 them on the horse to drain, and proceed in like manner 
 with the rest until they are all spirited. 
 
 Xow proceed to Sort your Work for Dyeing. 
 
 Every article the shopwoman takes from the customer 
 is booked in the day-book, with the name of the owner, 
 the color that it is to be dyed, and a number in the book. 
 A corresponding number is fastened on one corner of 
 the work with a needle and thread, so that it cannot be 
 removed in cleaning and dyeing. This book is brought 
 into the Dye-house; the Dyer takes the job and calls 
 out the number, the book-keeper reads the entry and 
 
SILK DYEING. 47 
 
 tells him the color it is to be dyed. He puts it on a 
 peg, and so he goes on calling out the number, and the 
 person calling out the color, until all are sorted, each 
 color by itself on one peg. In Liverpool the dyers have 
 bits of flat wood, with the name of the color cut out on 
 'it. This bit of wood is tied to each job; which saves 
 the time of sorting. Other places have a number for 
 each color painted on a board, and hung up in the Dye- 
 house ; this number is put under the customer's number 
 on the job. This last is the most handy and useful way 
 of telling what color the job is for, and saves time. 
 
 The master, or foreman, begins to dye the work, 
 giving a color to each man; he generally takes the 
 light colors himself. Where there are many men in 
 the Dye-house, it is a curious fact that some have a 
 liking for dyeing certain colors. It is the duty of the 
 master or foreman to study that taste, and give the 
 workman a color to dye that he fancies. Sometimes a 
 man is for years kept at one sort of work in cleaning 
 and dyeing; and I have always found it dangerous to 
 take him from it and send him to that sort of work in 
 the Dye-house he is not in the habit of doing. 
 
 To Cleanse and Spirit New Piece Silk Goods, Garments, 
 and other Manufactured Goods for Dyeing and Fin- 
 ishing, without Boiling off in Soap. 
 
 They are to go through the very same process, from first 
 to last, as the silks have had that were boiled off in soap. 
 I say, from nearly forty years' experience, there is no 
 necessity to boil off manufactured silks in soap; the 
 boiling off they have in taking the gum out of them is 
 quite enough in all conscience, though some master 
 dyers will have them boiled off, as they think it is best. 
 
 Men differ as much as in their faces ; 
 
 What one man likes, another man disgraces. 
 
 Notwithstanding this, I must insist on it, that the boiling 
 off which manufactured silk gets while in the hands of 
 
48 love's dyer and ^scourer. 
 
 the skein dyer is enough for the remainder of its exist- 
 ence. 
 
 I must request the reader, to save repetition, to go 
 back to page 45, line 17. He will see I have my silks 
 cleansed on the horse, sorting them for the boiling off, 
 and taking the whites, pinks, and pale blues first into 
 the boil. 
 
 Now, my way is not to boil them, but to have the big 
 copper kettle on a stand, well cleaned out and rilled with 
 scalding water made into a thin soap liquor. I then 
 sort the silks that are on the horse ready cleansed, 
 taking the whites and pale blues' into the kettle first; 
 handle them for five minutes with a clean stick; fold 
 them up on a clean puncher-head, and spirit them 
 directly, without rinsing out of the soap; that is, put 
 your silks, while the soap is fat in them, directly into 
 the scalding-hot spirits, give them five minutes' good 
 handling in this spirit, fold them up on a clean peg, and 
 give them two clean cold waters; fold them up on a 
 puncher-head, wring them up in a wringing-sheet, 
 smooth them down with your hands, and hang them 
 up in a warm stove-room to dry. When dry take your 
 silks down, fold them with the numbers outside, and 
 take them into the shop to be sorted. The person who 
 sorts them will write on a piece of paper the color each 
 lot is wanted, will fold them in lots, pin the paper with 
 the color written on it, and throw the lot into the drawer 
 called the undyed silk drawer, leaving it there until you 
 are ready to dye it; and so on with every lot of silks 
 you have to clean and spirit, until you have them safe 
 in your undyed drawer in the shop. There is no danger 
 of their being stained this way. The reader will see 
 the author's intent in thus cleansing and spiriting his 
 silks. In the first place, the silk is not thinned, or 
 harassed with boiling in soap, and it saves the boiling- 
 off soap copper ; secondly, there are three warm waters 
 saved, and the time the man would be passing the silks 
 through them. In passing the silks out of the strong 
 soap into the spirits, it should be done quickly, while 
 
SILK DYEING. . 49 
 
 the soap is fat in them; turning the soap in the silks 
 directly into grease evenly over the whole job. Then, 
 this grease from the soap and spirits combined is dried 
 in them, which nourishes the silk, and attracts the 
 coloring matter when dyeing. 
 
 Here is a case to prove that spirits turn soap into 
 grease; wash your hands in soap, and pass them through 
 spirits ; your hands are no longer soapy; they are regularly 
 greasy all over. Silk is an animal substance, so is the 
 skin; and what will act on one will act in the same way 
 on the other, so far at least as soap and spirits are 
 concerned. 
 
 To Dye Pale, or Sky Blue, and Whites. 
 
 Having all your silks ready for dyeing, cleansed, 
 spirited, &c, you must take the Whites first. It is 
 needless to go through the different processes of dyeing 
 them twice, as I gave ample directions how to dye them 
 when I finished boiling the gum out of the skein silk, in 
 pages 36 and 37. I have before observed that the same 
 dye-stuff which is used for the new work will also be 
 required for the old ; there is no difference. If there is 
 any difference the skein-silk dyer has it; for his work 
 takes the dye directly and regularly on account of its 
 softness; whereas the dyer of manufactured fabrics has 
 the hardness of the silk to contend with, and often 
 through rowiness and being uneven he has to dye it 
 again, a loss the skein dyer seldom has to complain of. 
 
 To Dye Sky-Blue in Silks with pure neat Saxon Blue, 
 dissolved in warm water. 
 
 Take half a pint of neat Saxon blue, put it in ajar, and 
 scald it in two quarts of water; keep it well stirred while 
 you are scalding it; put it by to settle down; scour your 
 kettle and dry it; fill it with pure spring water, melt some 
 ground alum into it until it becomes a curdy white. 
 Handle your silks in this spring water and alum for 
 4* 
 
50 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 about ten minutes, and take them up on your peg. Have 
 a half-pint stone mug at your service, and fill it with your 
 scalded blue ; pour half this half-pint of blue into the 
 kettle; stir it well, and put your work back into the now 
 blue liquor. Keep your silks handled in this for ten 
 minutes, and look at your pattern. If not dark enough, 
 get them up and give them more blue, and so go on 
 until you have the proper color. Then give your silks 
 two clean waters with very little sour in them, wring up, 
 shake out well, and hang up in a warm room to dry. 
 When dry, take them down, damp, brush, and finish 
 them. 
 
 Another way to Dye Sky-Blue in Silks, with Saxon Blue 
 
 drawn off a Blanket. 
 
 Scald your Saxon blue in a jar; get a piece of blanket 
 about a yard long and half a yard wide. Put the blue 
 with the blanket into a small kettle to swim in the 
 copper; and when all the blue is absorbed by the 
 blanket get it out to drain, and throw the blue that is 
 left in the kettle into the old green liquor. (See page 
 19, Slate Cistern for old green liquor.) Give the blanket 
 three clean cold waters, and put a pinch of soda. in a 
 pail of clean hot water, and put the kettle to swim again 
 in the copper until you draw off all the blue of the blanket 
 into the liquor. Get the kettle out of the copper; put 
 the blanket to drain, and put tartaric acid or common 
 sour in it until you make it barely taste of acid. Turn 
 this carefully into a jar. Get a kettle of pure spring 
 water, and put alum to it until it whitens; put your silks 
 in, give them ten minutes; get them up and give them 
 some of this blanket blue. Look to your pattern; if not 
 full enough, get them up and give them more until they 
 are done. When done, give your work one clean cold 
 water with very little sour in it. Wring, fold, and hang 
 up in a warm stove-room. Take them down, damp them 
 in clean damp sheets, brush and finish them ; if they are 
 silk dresses they must be framed. (See description of a 
 
SILK DYEING. 51 
 
 Silk Finishing Frame, page 28.) If your silks are new 
 pieces or shawls, they must be finished on the rolls. 
 These rolls are very like the winch in page 23, only the 
 rolls are solid round pieces of wood. There are two of 
 them, and the silk is rolled from one to the other over 
 a charcoal fire, the silk being wetted with size. 
 
 Another way to Dye Sky or Pale Blue Silks with Paste 
 
 Blue. 
 
 Clean out your copper kettle, and fill it with clean soft 
 water. Melt some alum in it, dissolve some paste blue 
 in a pint stone mug ; stir it well while you are pouring 
 the water on it ; put a little tartaric acid in to make it 
 only taste ; put one-fourth of the blue in the mug into 
 the alum and water in the kettle. Open out your silks 
 and put them in the blue liquor in the kettle. Give 
 them about five minutes in this. Get them up on your 
 peg, and give them as much more blue. Give them 
 another five minutes. Now look to your pattern and see 
 if you want more blue. If you do — give it, and so go 
 on gently until you have the color you require, or more 
 properly speaking, the color of the pattern the customer 
 requires. "When you have done, fold up your silks on 
 the peg. Throw away the blue liquor, rinse the kettle, 
 and give your work one clean water with very little 
 common sour in it; fold up on the peg and wring your 
 silks up in a clean coarse linen sheet about a yard and 
 a half long. Fold them nicely, and hang them up to 
 dry in a warm stove-room. When dry, damp, brush, 
 frame, or roll them. Paper them, and they are finished. 
 
 Description of Kettle Pegs. 
 
 In dyeing these blues I have mentioned pegs many 
 times. I will now describe them. I put a kettle on a 
 stand near the light and wall. Just over the kettle I 
 have a small round beech stick, well fastened with* cement 
 in the wall. The round end that is out I will in future 
 
52 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 call the kettle peg. I have many of these kettle pegs 
 round my Dye-house, and have earthenware pipes to 
 sheath them when I don't like to trust my work to the 
 bare pegs. They are two feet out of the wall in my de- 
 scription of the Dye-house, which you will see in page 17. 
 It says, speaking of pegs, there is to be no horse or stand 
 on the floor of the Dye-house. It is under these larger 
 pegs that the little pegs are to be fastened into the wall. 
 
 Another Way to Dye Pale Blue Silks with Nitrate of 
 Iron and Prussiate, either Red or Yellow Prussiate. 
 
 Fill your kettle with clean soft water ; make it taste 
 with a little oil of vitriol to four pails of water. Put in 
 less than half a pint of pure nitrate of iron. Open 
 your silks and handle them in this liquor ten minutes ; 
 get them up, rinse them in one clean cold water, with 
 a little sour in it. Put them on your peg to drain. 
 
 Fill another clean copper kettle with clean water, and 
 melt a quarter of a pound of prussiate in a pint brown- 
 ware mug, and put it in the water in the second kettle. 
 Take your silks that have had the nitrate of iron into 
 the prussiate kettle and handle them well for ten minutes. 
 Get them up on a peg, and give them one cold clean waiter ; 
 fold up out of this, and return them into the nitrate of 
 iron, and give them ten minutes. Get them up and 
 rinse again in one water with sour in it. Put them 
 back in the prussiate kettle; give them ten minutes' 
 rinse, and put back in the iron. Give five or ten minutes 
 in this, and fold up on your peg. Throw away the iron 
 and prussiate ; give your silks two cold clean waters, 
 with a little spirit in each, fold up on kettle peg, wring up 
 and fold nicely. Hang up in hot drying-room, and, when 
 dry, take down, damp, brush, and finish. 
 
 Remarks on the four preceding Pale Blues. 
 
 You can dye any blue you like, down to a dark pale 
 blue and Waterloo blue. By adding more blue to the 
 
SILK DYEING. 53 
 
 same liquor, you can dye half-a-dozen different shades 
 in the same copper kettle, exactly in the same way the 
 pale blues are dyed. Dyers must make use of their 
 brains more than any class of tradesmen I know of. I 
 generally like to give my blues three dry sheets before 
 I hang them up. It is a sure and safe way of getting 
 them up. You must use the sheets one after the other ; 
 fold them after this, and they will do to damp the silks 
 when dry. 
 
 To Dye Silk Waterloo Blue and Lavender, French 
 White, and Peach. 
 
 Fill the small copper with clean water. Make it boil, 
 and put half a pint of pure red or blue orchil in it, with 
 a pinch of soda. Make a thin liquor of it, with melted 
 hard soap; damp the fire so that your copper will not 
 boil, but simmer. Put in your French whites first ; give 
 them a quarter of an hour ; have a thin soap liquor to 
 put your silks in when taken out of the copper. Have 
 a man with two warm rinsing waters to take the work 
 from you. If you think your French whites too full, get 
 them out on your stick — do not let them off of it — and 
 add a little more melted soap, and put them back in the 
 copper ; that will soon reduce them. Get up your silks 
 out of the copper into the thin liquor; fold them up and 
 give them to the man at the warm waters to put your 
 French whites through, and hang up in a warm room. 
 Damp, brush, &c, and the French whites are finished. 
 
 Peach Color in the French White Copper. 
 
 Add another half pint of orchil to this copper, and 
 dye your peaches in it. Put them in your thin liquor, 
 fold them up, and give them to your man at the rinsing 
 waters, and finish as in the French white. Some Dyers 
 prefer cudbear for this work — there are two ways of 
 using cudbear, one way is to put as much cudbear as 
 you want in a small pipkin and boil it, and strain what 
 you want into the copper; the next method is to put the 
 
54 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 cudbear in a fine muslin, tie it up and boil what color 
 you want out of it ; then take it out of the copper and 
 put your work in to dye. 
 
 Waterloo Blue in the Orchil Copper. 
 
 You must now see if there is enough orchil or cudbear 
 after your peaches to dye your Waterloo blue ; if not, 
 put in more. Get your work opened and put it in the 
 copper, and give it about a quarter of an hour. Put it 
 through the thin liquor, and give it to the man to put on 
 the peg. It is now ready for blueing, when a man can 
 be spared to go to the kettle to blue it, in a good strong 
 Saxon blue liquor, and rinse it in two clean cold waters, 
 with a little sour in each water ; wring and hang up to 
 dry. Add a little more soap to your copper orchil, and 
 body your lavenders in it; do the same with them as the 
 "Waterloo blues, and put them on the peg to blue. The 
 lavender is not to be blued in the Waterloo blue liquor, 
 it must be put in the green liquor, the kettle cleaned, 
 and the lavender blued in spring water, with a little 
 scalded Saxon blue in it. Under the head of puce and 
 crimson vats, I will give directions to dye the above colors 
 in a different way. This work must be sheeted up dry, in 
 clean cotton or linen sheets. It is the safest method. 
 
 To Dye French Blue with Nitrate of Iron and Red 
 
 Prussiate. 
 
 1st. Get eight ounces of crystals of tin, one pint of 
 nitrate of iron, half a quartern of oil of vitriol, and ten 
 gallons of clean cold water. Put half the vitriol in the 
 water first, then the crystals of tin, and then the nitrate 
 of iron. Before you put in your liquor the crystals of 
 tin, you must get a pint stone mug and put in it a quar- 
 tern of oil of vitriol. Put half a pint of cold water on 
 the vitriol in vour mug. Have the crystals of tin in one 
 hand and a bit of clean stick in the other hand, and 
 directly you put the cold water on the vitriol, put in the 
 
SILK DYEING. 55 
 
 crystals of tin after it ; stir with a stick for half a minute, 
 and then add it to the liquor. This is the mordant for 
 French blue, and it is ready for use. Now open out 
 your work and handle it in this liquor for ten minutes ; 
 rinse it from this in two waters, with common sour in 
 them, and put them on a peg to drain for the prussiate. 
 
 2d. Melt four ounces of red prussiate in a quart stone 
 mug, and put it in a clean kettle, with six gallons of 
 warm water. Let your silks be handled in this ten 
 minutes. Binse them from this in two waters with a 
 little sour in them, and return them into your mordant 
 again. Rinse in a spirit water and return in your prus- 
 siate, and so go on quietly for four or five returns in 
 the mordant, and the same in the prussiate; and when 
 you have your silks the French blue you require, rinse 
 them out of the mordant in two clean cold waters, with 
 a little spirit in them, wring them in a cloth, shake them 
 out well, and fold and hang them up to dry in a hot 
 stove-room. When dry, damp, brush, and finish. Be- 
 fore I begin to dye these blues, I always look after my 
 shawl sheets, to see they are dry and ready for use ; and 
 when my blues are dyed, I make it a rule to sheet them 
 up dry, and brush them without hanging up, fold them, 
 and put them in a cloth in the unfinished drawer in the 
 shop. See that they are dry before you put them in the 
 drawer. 
 
 Remarks. — I prefer six wets to three, because the silks 
 are evener and brighter. Suppose it will take me two 
 hours to give them three wets, I will only take two hours 
 to give them six wets, so I lose no time in doing so. I 
 make up my preparation and prussiate liquor the night 
 before I want to use them in two separate vessels, and 
 turn the top of the liquor over in two clean kettles in 
 the morning, and begin dyeing a clear preparation and a 
 clear prussiate liquor. 1 prefer this way; it is best to 
 let them settle down. 
 
 These two liquors may be saved in two very large stone 
 jars, and helped with fresh dye stuff every time after 
 they are used. My two jars are placed on stands, and 
 
56 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 when I am going to dye French hlues, I put my kettles 
 under the stands and pour my liquors gently into them, 
 and when I have done help them with fresh dye-stuff 
 and fill my jars. 
 
 Another Way to Dye Silk a Prussian Blue. 
 
 Clean a copper kettle ; and to four pails of water add — 
 1st, a teaspoonful of oil of vitriol and one pint of nitrate 
 of iron. Put your work through this for ten minutes, 
 fold up on peg, rinse in two waters, fold up, put your 
 work on a peg to drain. Clean a copper kettle, and 
 melt a quarter of a pound of yellow prussiate of potash 
 in a quart stone mug, melt it in scalding water, fill 
 your kettle with clean warm water, and pour the 
 prussiate into it. See that all your prussiate is 
 melted. Give your work a quarter of an hour in this 
 liquor. Return it into the nitrate of iron without rinsing 
 it out of the prussiate. Give it ten minutes in the iron ; 
 get up, rinse, and return in the prussiate again for four 
 times, perhaps five times, UDtil you have your proper 
 color. Rinse them in two waters out of the nitrate of 
 iron, wring, and sheet up; dry-brush and finish. This 
 is the way they were done for years before the crystals 
 of tin and red prussiate were introduced. 
 
 Third Way to Dye Silk Prussian Blue, with Peach 
 
 Body First. 
 
 The reader must be aware that I am giving receipts 
 for dyeing these silks when they have been cleaned and 
 spirited. 
 
 Have a clean kettle, pour two pails of pure, clean 
 water into it; add one tablespoonful of oil of vitriol to 
 that and one quart of puce spirits ; after this add half a 
 pint of the puce vat liquor. Stir it well, and handle 
 your silks in this liquor until they are a peach color. 
 Get them up and give them one cold water ; fold them 
 up and dye them Prussian blue, either the first or 
 second way I have given receipts for as above. Both 
 
SILK DYEING. 57 
 
 ways are good, but the first is the newest and cheapest ; 
 because when you have dyed your silks you must save 
 your liquors. It would be waste to throw them away, 
 as they will do well a dozen times, with a little help 
 every time they are put by. The liquor they were 
 peached in must be saved in a stone vessel. It will last 
 a long time if helped. 
 
 In 1748 Monsieur Macqueer, of the Royal Academy 
 of Sciences in Paris, discovered a method of dyeing silk 
 and cloth Prussian blue superior to any indigo with 
 nitrate of iron, muriatic acid, and prussiate of potash. 
 
 Having now finished with blues on silk, perhaps a 
 short account of the Indigo plant may not be uninterest- 
 ing to my readers, especially as they have heard so much 
 of Saxon blue in my instructions how to dye the pale 
 blues, Waterloo blues, blue whites, and lavenders. 
 
 Royal Blue. 
 
 Prepare in a solution of nitrate of iron 3° Twaddell, 
 100° Fahrenheit, and for every pound of prussiate used 
 in dyeing add as much of the crystals of tin [dissolved in 
 hot water) to the preparation, work in this till the silk 
 turns a light buff color; lift, and wash in one water. 
 After which — 
 
 For 100 yards dissolve four pounds of prussiate of 
 potash in a little boiliug water, put this into a copper 
 containing eighty gallons of water, 120° Fahrenheit, add 
 one and a half gills of sulphuric acid or muriatic acid, 
 enter in this winch fifteen minutes, lift one water, run 
 again through preparation, add two gills of sulphuric 
 acid to the prussiate, repeat in it if not dark enough, 
 and add a little nitrate of iron, after getting it to the 
 required shade, give two waters, then harden in a solu- 
 tion of alum and dry in a hot stove. — From Thompson's 
 " Practical Dyer's Assistant," p. 16. 
 
58 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 Preparation of Iron and Tin as a Mordant for Royal or 
 Prussian Blue for Silk. 
 
 This is not prepared to stand in reserve, but only when 
 about to be used. The iron used for this color should 
 be well killed. That is, the acid should be well satu- 
 rated with iron, and produce a solution of a deep dark 
 red. Some dyers add a little muriatic acid to the iron 
 when it is to be used along with the tin ; the crystals 
 of tin should be added to the iron liquor immediately 
 before entering the goods, and the liquor should be well 
 stirred to prevent inequality. — From Napier's ' Manual 
 of Dyeing,' p. 234. 
 
 The History and Description of the Indigo Plant. 
 
 In the province of Saint Salvador, South America, a 
 country famous for the production of dye-stuffs, grows 
 spontaneously the plant Giquilite, the dregs of which 
 are called 
 
 Indigo. 
 
 The mode of preparing it is by steeping it in water, 
 as follows : There are three open troughs or cisterns 
 raised a distance from the ground, one over the other, 
 so as the topmost vessel will, by means of a hose, empty 
 itself into the one beneath, and from that to the under- 
 most cistern. The top cistern is now filled with clean 
 water, and the plant is cut the same way as we do our 
 heath broom, which it nearly resembles, and thrown as 
 cut into the top cistern with the clean water in it. 
 
 It is left in this cistern about two days. By that time 
 it will have become incorporated with the water, and 
 smell alarmingly as it is becoming decayed. Now the 
 water becomes heated, and ferments and bubbles. It is 
 working fast now. Every bubble bursts with a gaseous 
 smell. The top of the liquor becomes purply. It must 
 be watched now, for the fermentation is at its height. 
 
SILK DYEING. 59 
 
 At this stage it must be well rakecl from the bottom, and 
 the hose untied and let run into the vessel under it. In 
 this vessel it is again well raked, and beaten with pieces 
 of wood like a cricket-bat. The men must not stop 
 until the indigo separates itself from the water, and the 
 water becomes clear again ; all this time the dregs of 
 the plant are being precipitated to the bottom of the 
 cistern, and are becoming what is called Indigo. Again 
 it is well raked, and the hose untied and let run into the 
 third vessel under it. In this vessel it remains one day 
 to settle, and the hose of this cistern is untied, and the 
 water let run off. The residuum of this liquor is indigo; 
 and while it is wet it is made into lumps, dried with care, 
 and sent to the indigo factor for sale. In some countries 
 they boil the third liquor in a copper, until the liquor 
 becomes like thick blood, then it is poured into a flat 
 wooden cooler, like a brewer's, or a billiard table, with 
 holes in the corners to let the water pass through gauze 
 wire, and the grounds that are left in the cooler is pure 
 indigo, and is now as thick as paste, and as in brick- 
 making, when dry enough, is cut into lumps, and these 
 lumps are placed on shelves in a drying room made for 
 the purpose, and when dry they are ready for sale. It 
 is in this last process that the adulteration of the indigo 
 commences. 
 
 This plant or shrub never grows more than three feet 
 high. It nearly resembles our heath broom in its seeds 
 and branches, and its small leaves are a blue green ; it 
 is sown in the middle of summer, and cut down about 
 Christmas. The steeping in water commences directly 
 it is cut. The plant is a triennial, and produces three 
 sorts of indigo. That of the first year, while it is young 
 and full of sap, is very coarse and heavy, of a brownish 
 cast, and nearly all falls to the bottom in water. The 
 more it sinks in the water the worse the indigo is. 
 
 When it is two years old it is in its full growth and 
 bloom, and yields the best Spanish indigo, of a purple 
 cast, and floats in water like a cork, and if rubbed with 
 any hard smooth substance becomes bronzy. 
 
60 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 The third and last year of its existence it yields very 
 inferior indigo, even much worse than the first year, 
 and then dies root and branch, all except the seeds. Of 
 course they are always cultivating the plant to keep up 
 the supply. 
 
 There are many other countries that produce indigo. I 
 will give the names and prices in my list of dyeing 
 drugs. 
 
 Remarks 'on Indigo in its Pure State. 
 
 This drug will not give any color to water, and will 
 not dissolve in it ; it must be dissolved by an acid or an 
 alkali. (See Blue Vat.) Dissolved in neat oil of vitriol 
 it becomes Saxon blue, and by this process fit to dye 
 different blues without any previous preparation, and 
 the prettiest of light blues in silks, cottons, and woollens, 
 from a pale blue downwards ; also, with or without a 
 preparation, greens on silk, cotton, and wool, with dif- 
 ferent sorts of yellow dye-stuff. 
 
 Directions to make Saxon Blue. 
 
 Clean and dry a stone jar like a pickle jar, that will 
 hold three quarts. Get one pound of the best ground 
 Spanish indigo, and eight pounds of the very best oil of 
 vitriol, and a brass rod like a stair. rod, about eighteen 
 inches long. Put the whole pound of indigo into the dry 
 jar at once (not a little at a time, but all at once), then 
 pour in the jar, on the top of the indigo, the whole eight 
 pounds of oil of vitriol, and begin stirring directly ; do 
 not leave it. After ten minutes' stirring, it will begin 
 to work. Do not mind that, keep on stirring, it will 
 soon subside. Be sure to put nothing else in it. In 
 about an hour fermentation will cease, keep stirring it 
 still until it gets smooth. The vapor leaves the jar, and 
 when you can see your liquor it is dark blue. Now you 
 may leave it; choose a clean warm place in which to 
 put it. Cover it over, for the oil of vitriol will suck in 
 
SILK DYEING. 61 
 
 the damp air, and spoil the color. It must be nursed 
 by heat for a couple of days, stirred occasionally, and 
 is then ready for use. Some dyers put in the spirits 
 first ; others put all the spirits in the jar first, and then 
 a table-spoonful of indigo at a time, well mixing it 
 as they put it in. It is an old way, but a very good 
 one. 
 
 I have thus simplified the making Saxon blue by 
 only one pound of indigo ; the reader can make one 
 ounce or fifty pounds by taking this as his standard. 
 The author begs to recommend the best dye-stuffs as the 
 cheapest ; they go further, and make the best colors. 
 
 To make an Indigo Vat to Dye Silks Royal Purple. 
 
 A vessel for an indigo vat is made of copper, about 
 five feet six inches high and two feet six inches in diam- 
 eter. There should be a round hole made in the ground 
 about two feet deep, near a chimney, and a flag stone 
 laid at the bottom of this hole, and the bottom of the 
 copper vat laid on it. The earth is now thrown round 
 it, and made level with the floor of the Dye-house ; the 
 vat is now standing upright, and is to be regularly set 
 by a bricklayer, with copper door, bars, four inch flues, 
 and stopper, and is connected with the chimney. As 
 the fire will be not much used, this vat might be a dis- 
 tance off, out of the way. 
 
 Take a peck of bran and wash the flour out of it, and 
 put it in a sieve to drain on a stand, in a clean place in 
 the Dye-house, out of the way. Take one pound of the 
 best madder and four pounds of pearlash, put them to- 
 gether in a small copper of clean water, and boil them 
 well for twenty minutes, stirring well with a clean stick 
 all the time; draw the copper fire, shut the door, put 
 the lid on, and leave it for a while. 
 
 Get on a small copper with clean water, and fill it to 
 within two pails of the top. Put in it one pound of 
 pearlash and five pounds of indigo. Boil this for an hour, 
 never leaving it, but well stirring it with a clean stick. 
 
62 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 When the hour is up, draw the copper fire, leave the 
 door open, and fill the copper with cold water, and leave 
 it for a while. See that your vat is clean and wiped 
 out dry. Turn the bran that is in the sieve into it, and 
 place the sieve on two sticks across the vat, and empty 
 the indigo and ash liquor out of the copper into it 
 through the sieve. Keep the sieve still on your vat, and 
 strain through it the liquor that is in the madder and ash 
 copper ; well rake the vat, and leave it to rest for a couple 
 of hours. Keep it to the heat it is now by shifting 
 a bit of fire into its fireplace. It has now a mottled yel- 
 low bluish-green appearance, with a bluish frothy top ; 
 now rake it again for five minutes, and leave it for half 
 a day ; the fire around it must be kept very gentle all 
 the time. Boil up in a small copper in a small float of 
 clean water a quarter of a pound of madder and one pound 
 of pearlash, and put this in your vat, and rake well. 
 When it settles, which it will do the next day, it is fit 
 for use. After it has been used it must be helped with 
 an eighth of the above materials, well raked, and used 
 again when it is settled. 
 
 Dark royal blue must be bodied in orchil before they 
 are vatted. Some blues are orchilled after they are dyed. 
 Mazarine blue has a light crimson body made from cochi- 
 neal on it before it gets the blue vat ; it is then the 
 fastest and finest of blues. 
 
 Some very dark royal blues, after they are vatted, get 
 a mordant of blue stone and alum, are then well rinsed, 
 and have a cold logwood liquor to darken them. The 
 orchil copper is generally saved to run them ' through 
 after they have had the logwood, as it cleanses and 
 darkens them. 
 
 To Dye Silks Purple with Logwood. 
 
 Take a copper kettle (a clean wooden vessel is better) 
 that will hold six pails of water; fill it, and place it on 
 a stand under a kettle peg. Put two pounds of ground 
 alum and two ounces of Milestone, well melted first in the 
 
SILK DYEING. 63 
 
 small copper bowl or stone mug. Handle your silks in 
 this for two hours ; they must not be left, as the copper 
 will stain them if they are allowed to rest. When your 
 time is up, get them on the peg, throw away your alum, 
 and give them two rinsing waters; fold them up and 
 put them to drain on a peg, and they are ready for the 
 logwood liquor. 
 
 Scour out well one of your tubs, and put six pails of 
 clean cold water in it, and one bowl full of your boiled 
 up logwood liquor ; open out your silks and handle them 
 in this for half an hour. Get them up and give them 
 another bowl full of logwood liquor. Give them another 
 half hour* in this. Get them up, and throw this liquor 
 away. Make up a fresh one, the same as above, and 
 give them the same time ; it must be done, for there is 
 no getting out of it ; get them up again, rinse in cold 
 water, wring and hang up. 
 
 To Dye Pale Pink, Full Pink, and Blue Pink, Pose Color, 
 and Scarlet with Safflower. 
 
 Safflower, or bastard saffron, is the flower of a plant 
 growing in the East Indies and Turkey. Bengal, saf- 
 flower is the best. It comes here in small compressed 
 pats that require some days' soaking in water before 
 they open themselves ; they cannot be stripped of their 
 color until they are opened. 
 
 Directions for Cleansing and taking the Color out of 
 
 Safflower. 
 
 Clean out a tub and put five pounds of safflower in it, 
 rather more than half fill the tub with clean water and 
 beat well with a stick, and leave it in some clean place. 
 Beat it four or five times in the course of the day. Next 
 morning have a clean sieve, put it on the ground, and 
 with the copper bowl turn the safflower -into it. Let 
 the water run away, and when it is strained throw it 
 back into the tub, and half fill it with cold water again; 
 
64 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 beat it well with the stick, and leave it. You must do 
 this every day until it swells itself entirely out ; when it 
 does this it is ready for stripping for its color. 
 
 Put the sieve on the ground, and turn the safflower 
 into it. Clean out a kettle, put it on a stand, and pour 
 four pails of blood-warm water into it. Melt half a 
 pound of pearlash in the water that is in the kettle, and 
 throw the safflower from the sieve into it. Take your 
 sticks and beat it well for # a quarter of an hour ; now 
 place two sticks across the tub with a blanket stretched 
 out. Then put your sieve on the sticks, and turn the 
 safflower into the sieve ; it will go through the blanket 
 into the tub. Put four pails of warm water in your ket- 
 tle again, and a quarter of a pound of ash ; well drain 
 the liquor out of the safflower that is in the sieve, and 
 throw it back again into the tub, and mix it well in this 
 liquor with your hands. 
 
 This process must be repeated three times, and the 
 safflower may then be thrown away. Take your blanket 
 off the tub, and melt a pound of tartaric acid in a stone 
 quart mug with scalding water ; put this into the ex- 
 tract of safflower very slowly, stirring it all the time ; it 
 will ferment a good deal while you are putting in the 
 tartar, and if there is not enough you must put more in 
 it, for it must taste well of it. If there is too much 
 tartar in the liquor it will injure it ; but it must taste of the , 
 tartar. Now get six yards of soft and thick Indian cot- 
 ton, about a yard wide ; tear it into yard lengths, put it 
 in dry as it is in your extract of safflower, handle it well 
 for five minutes, leave it, and go on with the dyeing the 
 pinks the next morning. 
 
 Begin with the Blue Pink, as it will allow time for 
 your sheets to be sucking in the safflower. Clean out 
 a small copper, fill it up with boiling water out of the 
 large copper, shift a bit of fire under it, and put as much 
 red orchil into it as will make your silks a pale French 
 white. Simmer them in this for a quarter of an hour ; 
 have a nice warm thin liquor of soap to throw them into, 
 and fold them up on a puncher-head and give them a 
 
SILK DYEING. 65 
 
 common scour in clean cold water directly out of the 
 soap liquor, and one cold water after the scour, and they 
 are ready for the extract of safflower. 
 
 Now go to your tub where the sheets are, and ta»ke 
 one of them and give it three or four cold waters ; have 
 a small clean kettle and put a pail of blood-warm w r ater 
 in it. Melt in a stone mug two ounces of pearlash, and 
 put it in your warm water. Now put in your sheet to 
 strip the color from it. Give it a little time until all 
 the color is off, wring it out and throw it in the tub 
 with the other sheets. Put a quarter of a pound of tar- 
 taric acid in this extract, and it is now, after all this 
 trouble, fit to dye the pinks. I never thought there 
 was so much trouble until I had to describe it. Have 
 a clean copper kettle, and put four pails of water in it. 
 Place your kettle on a stand, and put all the extract you 
 took off the sheet into it. No tartar is to be put in now ; 
 nothing but the clean water and the extract. Open out 
 your silks and put in the blue pink, the pale pink, the 
 full pink, the rose pink, and the rose color at once into 
 it, and handle them well for twenty minutes. Have 
 another clean kettle, and put one pail of warm water 
 into it, and melt a quarter of a pound of tartaric acid in 
 it, fold up your pale and blue pinks out of the kettle, 
 and handle them for five minutes in this second kettle 
 with the tartaric acid, and they are finished. Fold them 
 up out of this, wring them in a clean sheet, first putting 
 the sheet in the tartaric acid, and hang them up in a 
 hot room, and they are ready for dressing. 
 
 Now there are two pinks done out of the five you 
 began w T ith, and three remain in your extract kettle. 
 Fold them all up and handle them for five minutes in 
 the tartaric acid ; fold them up out of this, give them 
 one clean cold water, and put them back in the extract 
 kettle ; give them twenty minutes in this and get up 
 your full pinks. Put them through the tartaric acid, and 
 wring, shake out well, and hang up in a warm room, 
 and the full pinks are done. Now you have two left in 
 your kettle. Get them up and pass them through the 
 5 
 
66 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 tartaric acid, squeeze them out of it, and put them back 
 in the extract kettle ; lift this kettle now into a copper 
 of boiling water to swim, so as to make your liquor that 
 you are using too hot for your hands ; get it out directly, 
 and take your rose pink up, and put it through your 
 tartaric acid kettle, and it is done. Do not leave it 
 until you hang it up to dry. The last of the five is the 
 rose color. Get this up on the peg, and melt a little 
 tartaric acid, and put it in the extract kettle. Put your 
 rose color back into the extract kettle, and it will suck 
 up what safflower is left in the liquor, and that will 
 finish the five different pinks, and all done in one liquor 
 by a little manoeuvring. These liquors are worked out 
 and must be thrown away. 
 
 The scarlet that is done with safflower must be well 
 boiled with annotto first ; it is then dyed scarlet with 
 the extract of safflower taken off the sheets and put on 
 the silks exactly the same way as the pinks were dyed, 
 but must have fresh sheets. It is a very expensive way 
 of dyeing scarlet ; there are other ways of dyeing scarlet 
 on silk, viz., by cochineal, brazil, and the crimson vat. 
 But dye scarlet on silk as you will, it must have a strong 
 body of annotto on it first. 
 
 The cotton pink sheets may lie in the tub for a couple 
 of days ; they must be handled occasionally, and then 
 got up, rinsed, and get a tartar and water, and be hung 
 up to dry. The dyer must be very careful of these pink 
 sheets, as they cost a great deal of time and trouble to 
 dye them. With the exception of the one that was 
 stripped of its color to dye the pinks, the whole of the 
 safflower is on them, and they are ready at any time to 
 be stripped to dye pinks when wanted. In the slack 
 time of the year we generally dye our pink sheets; they 
 are, however, not so much used as formerly, as there is 
 now a concentrated extract of safflower sold at the dry- 
 salters. It is a very good article; the best I have used 
 as yet is sold in pint and quart bottles, at the Messrs. 
 Skilbeck's, Lower Thames street, at 16s. the quart 
 bottle— the bottle holds a quart. 
 
SILK DYEING. 67 
 
 To Dye Buff, Amber, Leghorn, Straw, Bird of Paradise, 
 Orange, Cherry Color, and Scarlet with Annotto and 
 Soap. 
 
 Annotto is a vegetable paste that comes in its own 
 leaves from South America. It is a self-color, requiring 
 no preparation ; it is very good for silk and cotton goods, 
 but will not dye wool at all ; it has the good quality of 
 being a safe, cheap, and expeditious dye-stuff, never 
 going uneven on the work. After you have given it to 
 your silks they are ready to take any dye-stuff that is 
 given them ; it does ndt blind the silks, but, on the con- 
 trary, often makes a bad job a good one. Orchil has the 
 same properties, but it is a very different color, and 
 equally a godsend in many cases to the dyer. 
 
 When at work in the Dye-house, the master or fore- 
 man generally sets the men to the colors they are most 
 accustomed to, and takes the annotto or orchil copper 
 himself, and gives instruction to his assistant, who is 
 generally an apprentice, to get the annotto copper ready, 
 which he does by scouring it out and filling it with 
 boiling water ; putting two clean sticks on the copper. 
 He then gets a thin soap liquor and two rinsing waters 
 ready, and the foreman or master begins with the buffs 
 first. The paste annotto has been previously well boiled 
 in about a pailful of water and ash, and put by in a jar, 
 when strained it is fit for use. 
 
 Buff'. . Put a little ash in a small copper, then a little 
 soap,and about half a pint of annotto liquor ; put in your 
 silks and handle them well for a quarter of an hour; get 
 them into the thin liquor, fold them up, wiring them in 
 a sheet, fold and shake, and give them to the man to 
 hang in the drying-room. 
 
 Amber. Add very little, if any is required, more an- 
 notto to this liquor; look to your fire so as your copper 
 may simmer, and put in your silks for amber; handle 
 them well for a quarter of an hour ; get them into the 
 thin liquor, get them up, and give them to the man to 
 
68 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 rinse, and yellow with weld or turmeric, or both together, 
 and hang them up to dry when sheeted up. 
 
 Leghorn and Straw colors in this copper together 
 require no addition of annotto, there being plenty left in 
 the copper from the others ; simmer these a quarter of 
 an hour, and get them into the thin liquor, fold them up 
 on puncherhead, and give them to the man to rinse. 
 While the man is rinsing, make up a cold water in a 
 kettle and put a bowl of fustic in it, telling the man that 
 those silks are for Leghorn and straw colors, that he is 
 to die them in the fustic kettle, and get them up in the 
 drying-room. The straw colors require a little more 
 color fustic than the Leghorn. You must attend to the 
 fire; also put a little more soap and ash into your cop- 
 per, and about half a pint of annotto ; your man by this 
 time is hanging up the Leghorns and straws. 
 
 Bird of Paradise is the next color. Open out your 
 silks and put them in the copper, first putting in a little 
 annotto, keeping them well handled for a quarter of an 
 hour; get them into the thin soap liquor, give them to 
 your man to rinse, and give them a liquor in the kettle 
 of clean water, spirits, and fustic together; after that, 
 give them a clean cold water, and hang them up to dry. 
 
 Cherry Color. Put a quart of the annotto liquor out of 
 your annotto jar into your copper ; then open your silks 
 out and put them into it ; give them twenty minutes in 
 this ; get them into the thin liquor, fold them up and give 
 them to your man to rinse. While he is rinsing them 
 you are to clean out a kettle and turn over some crimson 
 vat in it. Tell your man to dye them cherry color in 
 the crimson liquor, and give them two cold waters and 
 hang them up. These must be sheeted up nearly dry, 
 in a clean linen or cotton sheet. 
 
 Scarlet is next. This you must stuff with annotto. 
 You must give it all the color that is left in your annotto 
 jar; simmer your work for twenty minutes; get it up 
 and put it in the thin liquor, fold up on the puncher- 
 head, and give it to your man to pass through the crim- 
 son vat; rinse in two cold waters, and hang up in a 
 
SILK DYEING. 69 
 
 warm room to dry. Now that all these colors are dried 
 and hung up, the cinnamon browns and vaunterines are 
 to follow in the same copper. Fill your copper out of 
 your thin soap liquor, look to your fire, keep your cop- 
 per to a simmer, and put in it — 
 
 The Vaunterines and Cinnamon Browns, and handle 
 them well for half an hour. Get them into your thin 
 liquor, give them a clean cold water with sour in it, and 
 a cold water after the sour ; wring and hang up in a warm 
 room to dry ; and when this last lot is dry, put them with 
 your silks for hair brown, and the pattern pinned to them. 
 
 Now I have done with the annotto copper. After 
 dyeing and preparing seven different colors in it, it is 
 still useful for dyeing buff cotton linings before it is 
 thrown away. 
 
 Satin stripe arid plain tabarets are to follow in the 
 annotto copper. The scarlet silks are generally taken 
 out of a warm thin soap liquor, and dried in a hot stove- 
 room, and vatted when dry in the crimson vat. 
 
 Tabarets for amber must have a very weak annotto 
 copper, and be yellowed with turmeric or weld. 
 Turmeric is the best for old tabarets, which, when dyed 
 and finished properly, look as well as new. They must 
 be damped, brushed, and watered. Bavistock, Great 
 Russell street, is as good a waterer as I could wish for; 
 and Seagrave, in George yard, and Hall, in Archer 
 street, are quite as good. But we all have our likings 
 and prejudices. 
 
 To Dye Silks Poppy. 
 
 When the silk has received the annotto, ground three 
 shades less than for aurora, the safflower preparation 
 must be ready, and turned by the solution of tartar, as 
 before described, and the silk well washed from the annotto 
 grounds, that the alkali of the pearlash used with the 
 annotto may not counteract the tartar of the saffiower. 
 A bath of this safflower must be thus prepared for the 
 silk as strong as it can be; the silk is then worked six or 
 
70 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 seven times through it, and for a full poppy it is neces- 
 sary to pass the silk through four or five such liquors. 
 The poppy is the deepest color that can be done with the 
 safflower. I have observed before that the liquors left 
 -from the poppy, if used directly, will serve for orange, 
 cherry, flesh, &c. 
 
 Archil, as described for crimson, with cochineal for f 
 wool, as before directed, is to be used on some occasions, 
 in other cases some patterns have no ground of annotto. 
 — From Parker's 'Dyers' Guide,' page 112. 
 
 Saxon Greens on Silks. 
 
 I shall begin with ebony, as the best yellow. First 
 take a pailful of ground ebony, and two pounds of 
 quercitron bark, boil it well for half an .hour in six pails 
 of water; clean out the large copper kettle, and put half 
 a pound of turmeric at the bottom of it; put two sticks 
 across the kettle and a sieve over them. When the 
 half hour is up draw the fire, and run the ebony through 
 the sieve on the turmeric. Do not disturb the sieve, 
 but put in a stick and mix the turmeric with this first 
 pail of ebony liquor. Now go on, and turn in the rest 
 of the ebony liquor through the sieve; Save the ebony 
 grounds, as they make splendid colors on green woollens. 
 Put your kettle on a stand under a kettle peg, scald 
 about half a pint of chemic blue, what we dyers call the 
 Saxon blue, and put it handy to you. Get a handful of 
 alum and throw it in your ebony kettle, and handle in 
 the pea, pomona, and grass greens at once, altogether in 
 this liquor; handle them well for half an hour, and fold 
 them up on your peg. Sort them now, beginning with 
 the palest greens. Put in as much blue as you may 
 want for them ; work to your pattern ; and when they 
 are done give them to your man to rinse in two clean 
 waters, with a little spirits in each, and hang them up 
 in a hot room to dry. 
 
 Put more blue in the liquor for the grass greens ; work 
 tc your pattern ; and when these are done rinse as before, 
 wring, and hang up to dry in a warm room. 
 
SILK DYEING. 71 
 
 The myrtle green is next. Put into the liquor a 
 saucerful of turmeric, and the remainder of the Saxon 
 blue ; put your silks in the liquor and handle them well; 
 put your kettle to swim in the large copper, and keep 
 handling them until it gets too hot for your hands. Now 
 lift the kettle out of the copper, and put it on the stand 
 under the peg, and you will find the work is dyed a 
 good myrtle green. Rinse in three cold waters with 
 sour in them, fold on the pegs, wring, and hang up to 
 dry. This green liquor that you have used is not to be 
 thrown away, but saved in a slate cistern ; and when it 
 is cold it will dye splendid grass greens in the following 
 manner: When your silks are cleaned and spirited for 
 grass green, open them out and handle them in the 
 green liquor in the slate cistern, and leave them. Give 
 them a turn when you are going to leave off work in the 
 evening, and so turn them twice a day for three days, 
 and they are dyed an even, clear, bright grass green. 
 Rinse in three clean cold waters, with a little sour in 
 each ; wring in a sheet, and hang them up wide in a hot 
 room to dry. All these greens require to be damped, 
 brushed, and framed. 
 
 Green with Alum and Weld. 
 
 Green silks, dyed with weld, must be well alumed in 
 clean cold water and ground alum that has been scalded 
 in a copper bowl and turned into it. The silks must be 
 well handled in over night, and got up in the morning 
 and rinsed. The weld must be boiled with a little pot- 
 ash and strained through a sieve into a kettle. The silks 
 should be well handled in it for half an hour, then folded 
 upon a peg ; and some Saxon blue having been scalded 
 and a little of it put in the liquor, your silks must be put 
 in and handled. Look to your pattern, and if they will 
 do, get them up at once ; rinse them in two clean cold 
 waters, with very little sour in them, wring, and hang 
 them up in a warm room to dry. 
 
 This way of dyeing green silks is a tedious and expen- 
 
72 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 sive one. You can only dye the very pale greens with 
 weld ; the grass and myrtle must be done with ebony or 
 fustic, turmeric, and Saxon blue. 
 
 Green on Silk for Parasols and Umbrellas. 
 
 Green wanted for parasols must have the blue vat first, 
 and then be alumed and welded. Some Dyers have a blue 
 vat for fast greens only. When that is the case, they 
 are first alumed, as hot as you can bare your hand in it ; 
 rinse out of the alum, and get weld and fustic together 
 boiling hot, well handle them in this ; get them up and 
 vat in the blue vat to the color you want ; rinsed out of 
 this, they must be put through the alum again, and 
 given a little time ; then rinsed and put back again into 
 the fustic and weld; they must have a little time in this 
 liquor also, and then got up and finished in a weld 
 liquor with a little Saxon blue in it. 
 
 Silk Dyed Green with Fustic, Alum, and Blue together. 
 
 Take one pail of the best fustic chips and boil it in six 
 pails of water, with a handful of ash, for half an hour. 
 Have a clean cask that will hold twelve pails of water ; 
 put the sieve over it, and strain the fustic into the tub ; 
 throw the chips back again into the copper, and give 
 them a good boil ; draw the fire, and strain through the 
 sieve into the first boil ; this done, put into the liquor 
 one pound of ground alum, and stir it well; scald half a 
 pint of Saxon blue in a stone mug or jar, put a half a pint 
 of this into the fustic liquor, stir it well, and leave it to 
 cool. When cooled enough, open out the silks that are 
 for the pale greens down to the grass green and put all 
 into this compound green liquor. Handle them well and 
 leave them, but do not forget them ; they must be turned 
 now and then throughout the day, left in the liquor a 
 couple of days, and turned occasionally to keep the color 
 regular. By this time some of the light greens will do, 
 and given to your man to rinse, which must be in two 
 
SILK DYEING. 73 
 
 clean waters with a little sour in them ; then hang them 
 up to dry in a hot room. You must put in another 
 half-pint of blue in your green liquor for the grass greens, 
 and put them back, watch them for another day, and 
 when they have color enough take them up ; rinse, 
 wring and hang them up to dry in a warm room. 
 
 Save this green liquor ; it will dye another lot of 
 greens. 
 
 Dark Greens, Invisible Greens, and Olives in Silk. 
 
 These three colors must have a body on them of an- 
 notto, cudbear, or orchil. Any one of these three drugs 
 will do, but one of them they must have before you be- 
 gin to dye them. Take ebony and fustic chips, and a 
 small copper bowl of logwood chips, and boil them to- 
 gether, in a copper that will hold eight pails, for half an 
 hour. Draw the fire from under the copper and turn 
 the boiled liquor into a copper kettle, with a pound of 
 turmeric on the bottom of the dry kettle. After you 
 have put in the first pail of liquor take a stick and mix 
 the turmeric ; now put in the remainder of the boil 
 through the sieve into the kettle. Put the kettle on a 
 stand under a kettle peg and have a clean stick. Open 
 out your silks and handle them for half an hour in this 
 liquor, and then get them up on the peg and take the olives 
 out and sort them. Put the greens on a peg away from 
 your kettle, and in another kettle put some warm water; 
 melt a pound of copperas in your copperas pot, and stir 
 it well into the kettle with warm water in it, and take 
 your olives and handle them in this copperas liquor for 
 a quarter of an hour; fold them up out of this liquor 
 and give them two clean cold waters, and put them back 
 into the first kettle with the yellowing in it ; give them 
 a quarter of an hour in this liquor ; fold, and give them 
 two cold clean waters, and hang them up in a warm room, 
 and they are a permanent and sound olive. Damp brush 
 and frame for a finish. 
 
 The next is the dark green. Scald as much Saxon 
 
74 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 blue as you may want, in a mug, and pour it in your 
 first kettle with the yellow in it ; handle the greens in 
 this green liquor, and put your kettle to swim in the 
 big copper. Keep on handling the work, and, when 
 too hot for your hands, take it out, put it on a stand, 
 get it up, and the dark greens are dyed. Put in more 
 blue for your invisible greens, give them time enough 
 to suck in the blue, and they are dyed. Rinse them in 
 two clean cold waters with a little spirit in them, and 
 hang them up in a warm room to dry. When dry, finish 
 as usual. 
 
 Drabs and Fawn Colors on Silk. 
 
 Scald half a bowl of sumach, and, while it is scalding, 
 scour out your big copper kettle and put six pails of 
 warm water in it. When the sumach is settled down, 
 put three bowls full of the liquor into your kettle, open 
 out your fawns and drabs, and put a small teacupful of 
 oil of vitriol in your sumach liquor ; stir it well, and 
 handle your silks in the liquor; give them half an hour, 
 and fold them up on the peg ; give them two clean cold 
 waters, fold them up and throw the remains of your 
 sumach kettle away; scour it out well, and fill itwith 
 clean cold water. Melt half a pound of green copperas 
 in the copperas pot, and put it with your clean water in 
 the kettle ; open out your silks and handle them in it 
 for a quarter of an hour, take them up and cool them, 
 and rinse them in two cold waters. Throw away the 
 saddening, and scour out the kettle; fill it up with clean 
 water, and put half a gill of oil of vitriol into it, with 
 a bowl of fustic liquor; handle them well in this for a 
 quarter of an hour, get them up and sort them ; the 
 drabs may want reddening, which is done with warm 
 water only, then rinse, and hang up in the stove-room. 
 
 The fawns are now to be finished. Nearly half fill 
 your kettle with clean cold water, and put one pail of 
 boiled-up fustic in it, and four pails of water and half a 
 pint of orchil ; put your kettle to swim in your boiling 
 
SILK DYEING. 75 
 
 hot copper, handle your silks for fawn in the kettle, and 
 when you have got any of your silks the fawn you want, 
 get it out and give it to your man to rinse and hang up. 
 "When your fawns are done, get the kettle out of the 
 copper, fill up the copper, and look to the fire. The 
 remains in the kettle may be thrown away. Rinse your 
 work and hang it up to dry. Finish as usual. 
 
 There are many other ways of dyeing fawn and drab, 
 but this way is the safest and simplest, as it is sure to 
 succeed. Drabs and fawns are done also with spent 
 puce and the crimson vats; with fustic or ebony liquor; 
 and some dyers (especially those that dye for drapers 
 and warehouse-men) have vats made with solution of tin 
 for these colors only. 
 
 Ruby. Marone, Claret, Hair-Brown, and Rappee on Silk. 
 
 There are as many dye-stuffs used to dye browns as 
 there are browns. There is cudbear, orchil, madder, 
 redwood, peachwood, fustic, annotto, turmeric, French 
 berries, copperas, nitrate of iron, and alum. Cudbear 
 being the best of all, I will begin with it. 
 
 Clean out a small copper and get it to a boil, put in 
 a bowl full of cudbear, well mixed before you put it in ; 
 get it to a boil, and then damp down your fire. 
 
 1st color. Rubies. — First open out your silks and handle 
 them in copper over a clean stick, give them half an 
 hour in it; have a clean little kettle well dried and put 
 under a kettle peg, get your silks out of the cudbear 
 copper and put them in this dry kettle, handle them in 
 this until they are cooled, fold them on your peg, and 
 tell your man to rinse these in three cold waters, wring 
 them in the wringing sheet, and hang them up in the 
 warm stove-room to dry, and they are done. 
 
 2d. Marones. — Handle your silk for twenty minutes 
 in the cudbear copper, the rubies has left, then get them 
 up and cool them in the kettle, fold up on a puncher and 
 put a pound of turmeric into the cudbear copper — no ad- 
 dition of cudbear is requisite. Open out your silks and 
 
76 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 put them in the copper, keep it under a boil, and handle 
 them in this for half an hour ; get them up out of the 
 copper into the cooling kettle, fold up, and give them to 
 your man to rinse in three cold waters and hang up to 
 dry. Damp, brush, and finish. 
 
 3d. Clarets. — No addition of dye-stuff is needed. Put 
 your silks in the cudbear copper, give them a quarter of 
 an hour, then place them in the cooling kettle. Have a 
 kettle filled with clean water, melt half a pound of cop- 
 peras in it, and handle your clarets in it for ten minutes ; 
 fold them up, and give them two rinsing waters, and re- 
 turn them into the cudbear copper ; give them twenty 
 minutes, and then get them into the cooling kettle ; fold, 
 and give them to your man to rinse in three cold 
 waters, and then hang up in a warm room to dry. Damp, 
 dry, brush, and frame them. 
 
 4th. Hair-Brown is the next color in this copper. 
 Give it now a pint of cudbear and half a small copper 
 bowl of turmeric and two pails of fustic liquor. You 
 must not use fustic chips, as they will eat up the cud- 
 bear. Open out your silks and put them in your copper, 
 look to the copper fire and keep it up to a scald, handle 
 your work and give it half an hour in the copper ; get 
 it up into the cooling kettle and fold on the peg ; sadden 
 the same as the claret, but stronger. Rinse it in two 
 waters and return it into the cudbear copper, and give 
 it twenty minutes ; get it up on your stick and cool it in 
 your cooling kettle, fold it up on the peg, and give it to 
 your man to rinse and hang up in the hot drying-room. 
 Your next color is — 
 
 5th. Dark Rappee. — Your copper needs no further 
 dye-stuff. Put your silks in the copper and handle 
 them well for twenty minutes ; after that time get them 
 up and cool them in the kettle, sadden them, rinse and 
 return them into the cudbear ; give them twenty minutes 
 in it, get them up and cool them in the kettle, fold on 
 the peg, and sadden them again ; rinse and return them 
 into the copper, give them twenty minutes, look to the 
 fire and keep the copper nearly to a simmer ; get your 
 
SILK DYEING. 77 
 
 silks up and cool them, give them to your man to rinse 
 and bang up in a warm drying-room. The next is the 
 6th. Browns that have had the annotto copper. — The 
 copper wants helping with a little turmeric — no cudbear. 
 Open out your silks and put them in your cudbear cop- 
 per and give them half an hour in it ; look to your fire 
 and shut the copper door ; when the time is up get them 
 up out of the copper into your cooling kettle, fold them 
 up on the peg, and give the silk for cinnamon to your 
 man to rinse and take out of a weak sour, and hang up. 
 You sadden the yellow brown and rinse it, and return 
 it into the cudbear for twenty minutes ; get up, rinse, 
 and hang up. Now the ruby, marone, claret, hair-brown, 
 rappee, and the browns that have had the annotto have 
 been done in one copper. Perhaps the dark browns will 
 want saddening twice and second return in the copper, it 
 all depends on the pattern — I always do it, it is no loss 
 but the time — it is a better color and fills up the silk. 
 
 To Dye Silk Claret and Brown with Madder, 
 
 Have iron hoops or filings, steeped in oil of vitriol 
 and water always by you, in soak, the older it is the bet- 
 ter. When you want to use it, take off the clear liquor, 
 and be sure it is clean and clear, and handle your silks in 
 it for an hour — do not leave them. Take them up and 
 give them one cold water, and dry them in a warm room, 
 and put your iron liquor back. Boil up as much madder 
 as .you may want for your work, strain it through a sieve, 
 and if your silks are dry, begin the clarets first, those of 
 no particular pattern will do nicely with madder only, 
 those for darker shades will want a little logwood liquor, 
 fustic, or turmeric in the madder liquor. Down to a 
 hair-brown or rappee, the turmeric is the best to add to 
 the madder. If the Dyer prefers fustic, he can boil up 
 ground fustic with the madder. 
 
 Remarks. — Do not wet the silks after they are dried 
 out of the mordant, but put them dry into the madder 
 liquor. The dyer ought always to have a person to wait 
 
78 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 on him to rinse his work and hang it up to dry as fast 
 as it is dyed; if he lets it lie on the pegs, or in the 
 rinsing waters, it is almost sure to be spoiled. Let him 
 have three warm or cold rinsing waters by him to rinse 
 his work as he dyes it, and wring it up at once; it is 
 shorter work to hang it up than to have to do the work 
 over again. It is principally for want of pride, interest, 
 and attention that the work has to be done over again — 
 a man ought to be proud of being a safe and good work- 
 man ; — a man of this description never wants work. 
 
 To Dye Br own with Sanders, Fustic, and Oak Dust. 
 
 Sanders or redwood, as well as fustic, comes to us from 
 the West Indies, the oak dust is the production of 
 England. 
 
 Take one pail of fustic, half a pail of oak dust and two 
 pounds of sanders, boil them together and strain them 
 through a sieve ; put your silks in the liquor for an hour, 
 well handling them; get them up, sadden them, rinse 
 and return them in the dye-stuff; such as are not dark 
 enough, sadden them again and return them, now rinse 
 and hang up to dry; when dry these will want a great 
 deal of brushing before they are finished. 
 
 To Dye Different Sorts of Blacks on Silks a number of 
 
 ivays, all different. 
 
 Black is a very troublesome color, and I am at liberty 
 to think so, from the number of ways there are of dyeing 
 it, and the many drugs that are used, although only 
 three or four are really wanted. Most dyers consider 
 they have the secret of dyeing the best blacks, and I 
 may safely say in my time I have dyed blacks twenty 
 different ways ; but this I am certain of, that nicety in 
 the handling, folding up out of liquors, care in hanging 
 up to dry, and good finishing, are as essential adjuncts 
 to produce good color, as the dye-stufEs themselves. 
 
SILK DYEING. 79 
 
 Black should be a full rich color, yet soft and brilliant. 
 Dark blue is a good color to begin with. 
 
 To Dye Silk Black with Nitrate of Iron and Soap. 
 
 In page 19 you will see a description of a cistern to 
 hold the black preparation; fill it up with clean water 
 and put a teacupful of oil of vitriol ;n it, stir it well, 
 and put into it two quarts of nitrate of iron. Your silks 
 having been well cleaned in soap, and spirited, open 
 them out and handle them in your preparation ; when 
 all is in the preparation "fold them up and put them back 
 again without leaving them for a minute ; put them 
 under the liquor, and leave till night, then fold them up 
 again, and put them back for the night; in the morning 
 fold them up out of the preparation and dye them. 
 Begin with giving them three clean separate cold waters, 
 fold them up and put them on a peg- to drain in the 
 warmest part of your dye-house ; clean out a copper and 
 put in it one pail of logwood and one pail of fustic for 
 each dress. For every twelve or fourteen yards of man- 
 ufactured silk, have your mottled or oil soap melted, and 
 make your logwood and fustic into a thin soap liquor — 
 mind, it must not be a strong, only a thin, soap liquor, and 
 too.little soap blinds the work. Open out your silks across 
 a black puncher, your man in the meantime getting a 
 fire under your copper. Put your silks, with the cold 
 dye-stuff, into the copper, not one by one, but throw 
 them all in at once. Handle them for a quarter of an 
 hour, put your puncher across the copper, and throw 
 them up selvage way, one by one, and when all are up 
 on the puncher, put all back again ; now look to your 
 fire, and keep handling your work, taking it up and 
 putting it back every ten minutes for one hour, and by 
 that time it will have become too hot for your hands ; 
 you must now draw the fire, for when the heat begins 
 to pinch your hands it is sure to begin to pinch the color 
 off your silks, but it must come up to this heat before 
 you can proceed further. When it has arrived at this 
 
80 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 heat, throw up your silks on the black puncher, and put 
 in your copper a quarter of an ounce of turmeric for 
 every twelve or fourteen yards of silk; after the turmeric 
 is put in, get in your silks, handle them well for half 
 an hour, throwing them up once during that time, and 
 they are done. Fold up your work smoothly on your 
 puncher out of the copper, and put them on a peg to 
 drain, give them a clean, warm, thin melted soap liquor, 
 wring, and hang them up in a warm room to dry. 
 Damp, brush, frame, or roll them, as they may require, 
 
 and they are ready for the customer. 
 
 • 
 
 To Dye Silk Black with Alum as a Mordant, when they have 
 been regularly Cleaned in Soap and afterwards Spirited. . 
 
 Open out your silks and handle them in your alum 
 preparation, leaving them in for a night or two, fold them 
 up in the morning, rinse in two waters, dye them in log- 
 wood, fustic, and soap, exactly in the same manner as 
 the above. I dyed blue blacks this way twenty years 
 ago, but did not then use any yellow, neither is it, I con- 
 sider, required. I have tried it for jet blacks, and found 
 it to answer remarkably well. 
 
 To make Nitrate of Iron with Iron Filings. 
 
 Get a large stoneware water-pitcher, and put ten 
 pounds of nitric acid and three pounds of neat oil of vit- 
 riol in it, then add six pounds (adding half a pound at a 
 time) of iron filings, which will cause it to work direct- 
 ly ; place it in some fire-place, and watch it for a couple 
 of hours, having a little cold water at hand to check it 
 from running over, which it will do if not well watched. 
 When it has cooled down leave it for two days, pour the 
 liquor into a large stone bottle, with a stopper on it, and 
 the day after it will be fit for use. 
 
 The best means you can adopt to have a clear nitrate 
 of iron liquor, is not to allow your iron liquor to remain 
 in the vessel you filled it in longer than twelve hours 
 
SILK DYEING. 81 
 
 after it ceases working, the bottoms after this goes back 
 or ascends into or through the liquor and makes it thick, 
 and this thickness is filth, and blinds the work ; it can 
 never be got out ; even admitting there is attraction in 
 it, is not loss of credit as a workman sufficient to coun- 
 termand its use ? I should think so. Nitric acid dis- 
 solves silver when applied with heat, and the liquor 
 blackens the hair, makes marking-ink. Gold is no use 
 in dyeing, it don't dissolve in any acid that is any serv- 
 ice to us dyers. 
 
 To make Iron Liquor with Acetic Acid and Nitric Acid. 
 
 Get a large stoneware pitcher, and put twelve pounds 
 of acetic acid, four pounds of nitric acid, and eight 
 pounds of steel filings at once. Stir it well for one hour, 
 and put the pitcher in a copper of clean water, and 
 make the water boil, keeping stirred what is in the pitcher 
 all the time. Damp your fire and leave it in the cop- 
 per, stirring the iron liquor occasionally. This must be 
 done for two days, when it will be fit for use. It must 
 be emptied in to a stone jar, and a stopper put on it, and 
 kept in a dry place, as all spirits must be, to prevent 
 their losing strength by evaporation, and inhaling water 
 from the air. 
 
 To make Nitrate of Iron with Copper as, Iron Filings, and 
 
 Tin Cuttings. 
 
 Put in a large stoneware pitcher twenty-eight pounds 
 of green copperas, fourteen pounds of aquafortis, three 
 pounds of oil of vitriol, and two pounds of tin cuttings ; 
 the latter may be bought at the tinman's. Mix these 
 altogether, and put by in a warm place for a day 
 or two, and it will be fit for use. This, like the other- 
 two, must be shifted into a stone jar with a stopper. 
 6 
 
82 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 To Dye Silks Black without Cleaning in Soap. 
 
 Soda them in a kettle on a stand in scalding hot water, 
 put in the darkest, particularly those you suspect to 
 have sal japonica, cutch or sumach on them, the light 
 colors only to follow, so that they may suck up the soda 
 and color that the dark ones leave in the kettle. When 
 all your silks are put through the soda, and folded up 
 on the peg to drain, throw away the soda out of your 
 kettle, and spirit them. 
 
 Dry out the kettle, and put a teacupful of oil of vit- 
 riol, and six pails of boiling hot water into it. Now 
 sort the silks for spiriting, taking the darkest first, get 
 them up on the kettle peg, and put the light colors in 
 the spirits, so that they may get stained with what 
 color the darker ones may have left. Now they are 
 ready for the mordant ; rinse them in two clean cold 
 waters and fold them up out of the last and open out 
 your silks and handle them in your nitrate of iron cistern 
 one after the other, and when all have been handled and 
 put back into the preparation, leave them a night or two 
 (two nights is best), fold them up next morning, and 
 rinse them well in three separate waters; fold them up 
 out of the waters, and put them on a peg to drain, and 
 they are ready for dyeing black. Instead of using mot- 
 tled or oil soap in your copper as you did in the two 
 blacks in pages 80 and 81, you must change it and use 
 soft soap only, or soft soap and neat's-foot oil amalgma- 
 gated. Having thus prepared, you may proceed in the 
 dyeing and getting them up in the manner before de- 
 scribed. This work must be cleaned well after it is dyed 
 in three good soap liquors and a thin liquor of soap, 
 wrung up and dried directly in a warm room. 
 
 Directions how to Amalgamate Soft Soap with Oil 
 
 Clean out a small cogper kettle, dry it well, and put 
 it to swim in a boiling copper. Put in it two pounds of 
 soft soap, one pint of sweet oil or neat's-foot oil, and one 
 
SILK DYEING. 83 
 
 pound of soda. Beat these with a stick until they are 
 all one body ; have a pailful of warm soap liquor at 
 hand, and put a bowlful of it in your kettle, still keep- 
 ing it in the copper and stirring it all the time.; then 
 another bowlful until it is all in. Now take it out of 
 the copper, and it is fit for use. 
 
 To Dye Black Silks with Argol, Copperas, and Blue- 
 stone without Soap, in either Cleaning or Dyeing. 
 
 Fill up your copper kettle with scalding water, and 
 put as much soda in as you may require for your silks ; 
 pass them through this, fold them up and put them on 
 the peg to drain ; throw away the soda, and spirit them 
 in boiling hot water in the kettle ; well rinse them in 
 three warm waters out of the spirits and fold them up 
 to drain. Dissolve separately in hot water one pound 
 of argol, four ounces of bluestone, and four pounds of 
 copperas in twenty pails of water ; handle your silks 
 well in this liquor, and fold them up out of it two or 
 three times, and leave them for a night. Get them up 
 in the morning and rinse them in one cold water, fold 
 and put them on a peg to drain, and they are ready for 
 dyeing. 
 
 Clean out your big copper kettle and give them a 
 warm liquor of logwood and fustic, and when this is 
 worked up throw it away and give them another. Give 
 your silks plenty of time in this second liquoring ; get 
 them up on the peg, and give them a very warm logwood 
 and fustic liquor. 
 
 You do not give them a quarter as much dye-stuff in 
 this liquor as you gave them in the other two. Fold up 
 on the peg, and give your silks a clean warm water, and 
 they are dyed. Hang them up in a warm drying-room, 
 and when dry, damp, brush, and frame them. If these 
 are not good blacks, certainly they would appear to be 
 cheaply dyed ; but that is a mistake, for they have taken 
 as much time as the blacks dyed in soap, but have no- 
 thing of their brilliancy. 
 
84 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 Black Silks Dyed, as above, with Soap. 
 
 There is no difference in cleaning and preparing of 
 these to the above, but more is used, and logwood, fustic, 
 and soap are worked together in the dyeing. They are 
 good blacks — the soap improves them very much, and 
 they finish up pretty well. 
 
 To Dye Black Silks without Spiriting. 
 
 Put a large copper kettle on a stand, and fill it with 
 boiling water. Put in four pounds of salts of tartar, 
 open out your silks and handle them over a stick, into 
 the tartar. Put the dark colors in first, fold them up, 
 and then put in the light ones. Fold them up on the 
 peg to drain, arid give them three separate rinsing 
 waters ; fold up on the peg, and handle them in the ni- 
 trate of iron preparation. Get them up, and return them 
 directly into the iron liquor, and leave them for twelve or 
 fourteen hours, turning them occasionally. Get them up 
 out of the preparation, and dye them, first giving them two 
 clean cold waters, and fold up. Now give your work a 
 warm logwood and fustic liquor ; when that is worked 
 down throw it away ; and give them another, and when 
 that is done with give them for a finish a kettle of good 
 logwood and soap liquor, as hot as you can bear your 
 hands in it, wring them up out of this liquor, fold nicely, 
 and hang in a hot room to dry. Damp, brush and finish 
 them. Some dyers prefer Field's soap, some like the 
 best mottled or oil soap, and others, again, prefer soft 
 soap. Amalgamated is the best. 
 
 To Dye Silks Fast Black. 
 
 Dye them dark blue in the blue vat, as at page 61. 
 Boil one pound of Roman nutgalls ground, four pounds of 
 ground logwood, four pounds of ground ebony, four pounds 
 of oak sawdust, and one pound of copperas, all mixed in 
 a copper that will hold six pails. Boil these well for one 
 
SILK DYEING. 85 
 
 hour, filling up the copper with clean water as it boils 
 down. Now draw the fire and turn over the liquor in a 
 kettle, through a sieve. Put your silk through this 
 liquor, fold, and cool it, and return it four times ; rinse 
 it well, and soften it with a warm liquor of soap and 
 logwood; wring and hang up in a warm room to dry. 
 
 To Dye Silks Fast Black ivith Prussiate. 
 
 I must refer my reader to page 53, he will see there 
 how to dye dark blue with the lavender vat, nitrate of 
 iron, and red prussiate; he will see, as above, the drugs 
 used to dye silks fast black ; and the same drugs are 
 used to finish off with as are used on the Prussian blue 
 silks for black to jet them. 
 
 To Dye Silk Velvets Black. 
 
 Clean, spirit, and put them in the nitrate of iron pre- 
 paration, well handle them in it, and let them lie for a 
 day, handling them in it occasionally. Put up the 
 velvet pegs (see page 22), and put your velvets over 
 them, out of the mordant; rinse them in three clean 
 waters, and put them on the pegs to drain. Clean out 
 a copper and dye them with logwood, fustic, and soft 
 soap with the oil in it. Give them a mottled soap liquor, 
 and a thin soap liquor, to cleanse them from the dye. 
 Put them on the velvet pegs to drain, and when drained 
 sufficiently shake them out nearly dry. It requires two 
 persons to shake them out, which should be done with 
 the pile downwards, and then they should be hung up 
 to dry in a hot room. When dry the velvets are to be 
 finished in the frame. In dressing, the pile must not 
 be touched with anything except the velvet brush, with 
 a little fine oil on it. You must give them very little 
 brushing, as it is expected that the shaking out will all 
 but finish them. When on the frame they are to be 
 evenly wetted on the wrong side with size and water, 
 but care must be taken that nothing gets through the 
 
86 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 velvet to the pile. When dry take your velvet-brush 
 and gently brush the dust off, fold up with the face in- 
 wards, and they are done. 
 
 To Clean and Dip Black Velvets. 
 
 Clean out a kettle and put four pails of boiling hot 
 water into it, and sufficient melted mottled soap to make 
 a good strong soap liquor. Now add one pailful of log- 
 wood liquor to it and handle in your velvets, not with a 
 stick but with your hands. Do not leave them, but give 
 them twenty minutes, and they are done. Hang on the 
 velvet pegs to drain, and when drained sufficiently, 
 shake them well to raise the pile; hang them up to dry 
 in a hot room, and frame them in the same manner as 
 the dyed velvets. 
 
 To Clean and Re-dye Silk Velvets that are a bad Black. 
 
 Turn over into a kettle out of the logwood cistern, six 
 pails of cold liquor, handle your velvets in this fifteen 
 minutes only, take them up out of this liquor and put 
 them across the velvet pegs ; turn the logwood back into 
 the bin, for it is fit to use again for any other work by 
 adding a pinch of soda. Put half a pound of copperas 
 into the kettle, and. fill it with scalding water, and handle 
 your velvets in it for ten minutes only; get them up on 
 the velvet pegs, and rinse in one cold water, then a sour 
 and water, and one water after ; put them on the pegs, 
 and give them a hot soda and water; put them on the 
 pegs again, and clean both sides over the board with a 
 velvet scouring-brush and gall; after the gall pass them 
 through clean water, and put them on the pegs to drain, 
 and when drained, to be well shaken, and finished by 
 framing. This is a very good way because, 1st, the cold 
 logwood is sucked on the velvets by the attraction that, 
 remained in them from the dyeing they had while in 
 the skein ; 2d, the copperas firmly binds the logwood on 
 them ; 3d, cleaning them in soda and gall, brightens 
 
SILK DYEING. 87 
 
 without thinning them as soap does. Done this way they 
 look better after they have been worn for some time 
 than they did when they first came from the dyer's hands. 
 
 How to Renovate China Crape Shawls, Blond Lace, Black 
 Silks, Watered and Plain, Black Satins and Velvets. 
 
 As they are taken in the shop from the customer, be- 
 ing first properly marked and tacked, so you are to take 
 them into the dye-house and place them on a dry board. 
 Clean out the large copper kettle, and put in it two 
 pounds of copperas and six pails of boiling water. Now 
 sort your blacks on the board, and take the worst colors 
 first; give them ten minutes only, fold up on the 
 peg, and get in the rest ; the velvets must be last and 
 by themselves — mind that. Those that you sadden first, 
 hang up to cool on the tenter-hooks in the dye-house ; 
 now get up those that are in the kettle and do the same 
 with them ; and lastly, the velvets, and give them ten 
 minutes in the saddening ; get them up on the velvet 
 pegs to cool, and they are done so far. After this pro- 
 cess give them two clean rinsing waters, fold them up 
 on the peg and hang them up to dry. When dry, take 
 them down and give them a strong scalding hot soap 
 and logwood liquor together, as you sorted them before 
 saddening; put in the lightest first, you must do the 
 same now with them in the logwood and soap, give them 
 half an hour in this, and see that the soap is strong in it ; if 
 it is, and your time up, get them on the peg, and throw 
 the liquor away, and give them a clean thin soap liquor, 
 and wring the silks and satins up, smooth down and 
 shake the blonde, the shawls, and the velvets, and hang 
 them up, and be sure it is in a warm room, to dry. 
 Damp, brush, and frame your shawls, silks, and velvets, 
 and give your silks for watering a weak sour and rinse, 
 for silks never water well out of soap. The watered silks 
 require damping and brushing before they are sent to 
 the waterers as well as those tor framing. 
 
88 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 Another way to Re-dye the above in a Black Silk Copper 
 without previous Cleaning. 
 
 The silks, crapes, shawls, blondes, and velvets are sad- 
 dened, rinsed, and dried the night before I intend dye- 
 ing. When I have finished the latter, I take the arti- 
 cles that were saddened and dried over night, open them 
 out and put them, into the copper without any additional 
 dye-stuff. Add, however, about a quart of soft soap and 
 oil before putting the silks into the copper. I throw 
 them up a couple of times before I leave them, and pro- 
 ceed with the cleaning of my black silks out of the dye- 
 stuff, giving them a thin liquor; wring, fold, and hang 
 them up in a very hot room. My man then takes the 
 dippers up that are in the copper, and puts them through 
 the soap liquor, the blacks left, and finishes them in the 
 dye-house by giving them a nice hot thin liquor ; wring, 
 fold, and hang up to dry in a hot stove room. This is 
 the cheapest and best way of renovating the dippers. I 
 do not recommend giving the velvets this copper, but a 
 clean logwood and soap liquor together, and a clean thin 
 soap liquor after. Put them to drain, and well shake 
 them out. 
 
 To alter Black Silks that cannot be sent to be finished on 
 account of being imperfect in the Dyeing. 
 
 1st. The first and most usual way when they will not 
 pass is to spirit them, and put them in the black prepa- 
 ration and dye them again, or wait until you have a fresh 
 lot of blacks to dye ; in that case they are put in the 
 black silk hole. 
 
 2d. Place the kettle on a stand, put a pound of cop- 
 peras in it, and fill with boiling water. Put the altered 
 work through this saddening, rinse and dry, and give 
 them the copper they are dyed in, if it is not thrown 
 away ; cold as it is, it will do, with a little addition of 
 logwood. Let them lie in this liquor for a day or two, 
 handling them three or four times. When you have a 
 
SILK DYEING. 89 
 
 couple of hot soap liquors to spare, get them into it, and 
 hang them up. No alteration so cheap or so good as 
 this. 
 
 Another way to alter Dyed Black Silks. 
 
 Put a kettle to swim in a boiling hot copper, and fill 
 it with logwood liquor. When the logwood liquor is 
 scalding hot lift it out and put it on a stand under a kettle 
 peg, and handle your alteration silks in it. Give them 
 only ten minutes in this (we have a clock in the dye- 
 house, by which we time almost all the work we dye), 
 and fold them up on the puncher peg. Put a handful 
 of soda in the logwood liquor in the kettle, and turn it 
 back into the cistern. Now put a little copperas into 
 the kettle, and fill it up with boiling water ; handle your 
 silks in this for ten minutes ; fold them up and rinse 
 them one by one in one clean water, then a sour, then 
 a clean water ; then a small sharp soda in the bottom 
 of a kettle, then a small warm water with a pinch of 
 soda in it to soften it, wring up, fold up, and hang up in 
 a hot room to dry, and they are done. When they are 
 dry, if they are not as bright as you like, a hot soap 
 liquor will make the alteration you require to the letter. 
 
 To Dye Silks Black by first discharging the Color by 
 
 Nitric Acid. 
 
 Have a stoneware pan that will hold twelve gallons, 
 with two arms projecting from the sides, let this float in 
 a copper of boiling water, then put in it five pails of 
 water and five quarts of raw aquafortis, and have a clean 
 stick by you. 
 
 This spirit liquor must be as hot as your hands can 
 bear it before you commence, it will very soon get hot 
 in the copper. Some dyers have this pan inclosed in a 
 vessel and heat it by a jet of steam. Have a clean stick 
 and a board at hand. 
 
 Now take your silks ; they are not to be cleaned nor 
 
90 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 wetted, but dry. Lay them on the board, open them 
 out, and take the darkest dress first. "When you have 
 opened it out put it into the spirit, and handle it care- 
 fully with the stick, and in less than five minutes all 
 the color, dirt, and grease will disappear as if by magic. 
 It will not be a white but a permanent buff color, which 
 will improve with soap. Now take it out of this liquor 
 and give it two clean cold waters, fold it up smooth on 
 the puncher-head and put it on a peg to drain. 
 
 Now pass the remainder of your silks through, taking 
 care you only do one at a time, never letting it out of 
 your hands until it is discharged of its color and dirt, 
 then rinse it, fold it, and put it along with the first silk 
 on the peg, and when all the dark colored silks are 
 passed through this spirit, the lavenders, blues, pinks, 
 and whites are to follow ; the object in doing this is to 
 clean them and give them the permanent buff body. 
 
 Your silks are now spirited, rinsed, and on a peg ready 
 for dyeing black. Have a vessel that will hold twelve 
 pails of water, and first put in it a half a pint of oil of 
 vitriol, and after that twelve pints of nitrate of iron, well 
 stir this liquor and you are now beginning to prepare 
 for dyeing throughout silk or satin dresses black, or 120 
 yards of any color, plain or figured silk, satin or China 
 crapes. 
 
 Now open all your work on a puncher and put it in the 
 nitrate of iron liquor at once, handle them well in it for 
 ten minutes and throw up out of the liquor on the punch- 
 er over a tub and put them, back in it, and so continue 
 handling them for one hour ; then fold them up on a 
 puncher-head and give them three clean cold waters and 
 put them to drain. Now have a vessel that will hold 
 twelve pails of liquor and put in it four pails of fustic 
 liquor, and four pails of logwood liquor, and put as much 
 of Field's oil soap melted, in it, as will make it pretty 
 strong of soap. This liquor must be a nice hand heat. 
 
 Now open out all your silks and put them in this liquor, 
 then throw them up on a puncher and put them back 
 again for an hour, fold them up, throw this liquor away 
 
SILK DYEING. 91 
 
 and make another of the same sort, open out your silks, 
 put them in and handle them in this for another hour. 
 This liquor must be as hot as you can bear it with your 
 hands. Now fold them up and give them two warm 
 soap liquors of three pails each, passing them through one 
 at a time. When they are all passed through these two 
 soap liquors make up a clean thin soap liquor of about 
 four pails, then take up one silk, pass it through this, 
 fold it up, smooth, wring it in a sheet, fold it, put it on 
 a peg, and do the same with the rest, and when they are 
 all done in this manner, hang them up in a hot room to 
 dry, and when dry, they are ready to damp, brush, and 
 frame, or roll. 
 
 Remarks. — The aquafortis liquor in the stone pan 
 must never be thrown away, it will last forever if helped 
 a little every time it is going to be used. A loose lid 
 must be put on it when not in use. The nitrate of iron 
 liquor will also do again, but it requires helping with 
 fresh iron liquor every time it is used. By this method 
 of dyeing, the work may be prepared, rinsed, and laid on 
 a peg all night and dyed in the morning. 
 
 To make a Jet for Black Silks, to be used in framing and 
 wetting out instead of Milk. To be used in clean Water, 
 or in the Size when the Silk is Dressing. 
 
 To make one pound of neat's-foot oil and one pound 
 of soda, put both into a dry clean pipkin, and put the 
 pipkin on the fire. Now stir them until they amalga- 
 mate well, and then they are fit for use. A teaspoonful 
 of this jet is enough for a quart of size. A tablespoonful 
 is enough for three pails of clean water. Put the silk in 
 dry, keep it in about five minutes, no rinsing, hang it up 
 to dry. In framing sago answers the purpose of jet size, 
 or it may be used instead of milk; it is better. 
 
 To make a Jet for Black Silks and Woollens. 
 
 Take one quart of neat's-foot oil and one quart of the 
 best neat oil of vitriol, put them both together in a 
 
92 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 stone jar, and stir them well with a glass rod. Let 
 them settle for a day or two, and when your black 
 woollens or silks are too brown, jet them with a little of 
 this jetting, rinse in a couple of waters, and hang up 
 your silks in a warm room to dry. 
 
 To make a French Puce Vat for Silks. 
 
 Clean out a copper that will hold fifteen pails of 
 water, and put half a hundredweight of the best log- 
 wood chips, and two pounds of soda into it. Fill it up 
 with clean cold water, and get it on to a boil. Let it 
 boil for an hour, and turn it over through a sieve into a 
 spare copper; put the chips back again into the first 
 copper, and fill it up with clean water, and boil well 
 again for another hour, and strain as before through the 
 sieve ; put the chips back again into the copper, boil up 
 again for the third time, and continue to boil another 
 hour. Save your chips in a basket, for they will still do 
 to dye black woollens with. Rinse out the copper, that 
 no chips remain in it, and strain back the logwood you 
 have been boiling into the copper, and reduce the three 
 boils to one in order to concentrate it. Keep boiling, 
 and filling it up with the logwood liquor out of the spare 
 copper until it is reduced to the single copperful that you 
 are boiling off in; when this is done, draw the copper. 
 Put two sticks across the copper, with the copper lid on 
 them and so leave it to cool; when quite cold then put the 
 puce spirits to it. In page 20 you will see a description 
 of a. Puce Vat. See that it is clean and dry before using 
 and to every two gallons of logwood liquor add one 
 quart of puce spirits into the vat, loosely covered over 
 with a lid, stirring occasionally for a week, when it will 
 be fit for use. Some dyers put all the puce spirits at 
 once into the vat, and turn over the logwood on the top 
 of it; other dyers put two gallons of the logwood into 
 a pail, and throw one quart of puce spirit on to it, then 
 pour it into the puce vat pail after pail. .1 prefer the 
 first method, it is the best way if done quickly. 
 
SILK DYEING. 93 
 
 To make Pace Spirits for the Pace Vat. 
 
 Get six pounds of grain tin and melt in a plumber's 
 ladle, and pour it gently into clean water. Get thirty 
 pounds of muriatic acid, and twenty pounds of nitric 
 acid, and mix them in a large stone pitcher; drain the 
 water from the tin, and add the tin gently. Put it in a 
 warm place for a week, then put it away in a stone jar, 
 with a stopper in it, in some dry place for a month, and 
 it will be fit for use. 
 
 Directions to Clean, Re-dye, and Finish 200 yards of Crim- 
 son Silk, Damask Bed and Window Cartains, and 200 
 yards of Tammy Lining of the above. 
 
 When I had work of this kind, I sorted and took the 
 damask into the dye-house and cleaned it first in four 
 lots in four very hot soap liquors in the big puncheon 
 tubs and gave them a hot thin soap liquor, wrung them 
 out of it, and dried them out of this thin soap liquor in 
 a hot room directly. 
 
 The crimson tammy lining I cleaned in the soap liquors 
 that the silk damasks left, gave them a clean thin soap 
 liquor to finish cleaning of them and gave these Tammys 
 a strong common sour directly out of the soap liquor 
 and one cold water after and dried them in a hot room 
 directly. Now both lots are cleaned and dry. 
 
 I then boiled up two pails of peachwood twice in a 
 twelve pail copper, this produced 20 pails of peach- 
 liquor, had it cooled, and to 20 separate pails I put 20 
 separate quarts of crimson spirits, raked the vat and left 
 it till morning. I then cleaned the copper of the old 
 chips and boiled up two pails full of fresh peachwood 
 chips in the twelve pail copper three times, strained 
 through a sieve, turned these three boilings into one ves- 
 sel and left this liquor to cool also for the night. This 
 cleaning, drying, making the crimson vat, and boiling 
 up the dye-stuff was done the same day. 
 
 The next day I cleaned out the big copper and turned 
 
94 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 over twenty pails of the crimson vat into it and made 
 four lots of my silk damasks, dry as it was, of 50 yards 
 each, and gave each lot half an hour in the vat. As each 
 lot was passed through the liquor, it was folded, and put 
 on the horse to drain into a vessel and to feed while drain- 
 ing. 
 
 When drained I gave each lot three cold waters and 
 put them to drain and gave each lot, separately, seven 
 pails of clean cold water, and seven pails of the fresh 
 boiled up peachwood liquor in it, and handled them well 
 in this one hour, then folded them up and put them on 
 the horse to drain. This liquor was thrown away, and 
 a fresh one made up for the next,' and so on for the four 
 lots. 
 
 When they had had the four clean peachwood liquors, 
 I returned them, without helping it with fresh spirits, 
 into the crimson vat separately for half an hour, as I did 
 at first, folded the lot up and put it to drain on the peg 
 and got another lot in the vat and so on, until I had 
 done the four lots. I then ordered my man to rinse 
 them by giving each lot three clean cold waters, they 
 were then wrung, and hung up in a warm room. The 
 same evening I took them off the tenter-hooks, damped 
 them, and in the morning brushed and sent them to 
 Baverstock's of Great Russell street, to be finished; and 
 when they came back they looked as well as new in 
 color. 
 
 The tammy lining I dyed with cochineal and spirit 
 first, and blued them to my crimson damask pattern with 
 cudbear in the same copper ; and, when done, cooled 
 them out of the copper, gave them three cold waters 
 when they were dry, picked, and shook them, and sent 
 them to Baverstock's to be glazed, as tammy for silk 
 damask lining is always glazed for a finish. 
 
 Remarks. — I went through the whole process of clean- 
 ing, dyeing, and finishing these 200 yards of silk damask 
 and tammy lining, which I have dyed this week, to show 
 at one glance how cheaply, simply, and easily such a 
 quantity of this, the best in our line of work, is done, if 
 
SILK DYEING. * 95 
 
 the practice is reduced to a system. The crimson vat 
 that this work has left is better than when I made it, I 
 helped it with a little fresh spirit when I turned it over 
 into the vat, covered it over and left it, in hope of soon 
 having another job of the same sort. " 
 
 It is usual to frame or roll silk damasks for a finish ; 
 but Baverstock's finishing machine excels in every way. 
 
 To make a French Crimson Vat with Brazil. 
 
 Clean out a copper that will hold fifteen pails of 
 water, and put a quarter of a hundred of the best Brazil 
 chips into it, and one pound of soda; fill it up with clean 
 cold water, and get it to a boil. Clean out a spare cop- 
 per to turn it over into ; have a clean sieve over your 
 spare copper ready when you want it. You must boil 
 the Brazil chips and concentrate, and proceed in the 
 same manner as with the logwood chips, and when cold 
 put it on the spirits, and in the same quantities. In the 
 making of the vats both should be alike, the only differ- 
 ence being in the colors ; logwood and spirits making a 
 puce color, and the Brazil and spirits making a crimson; 
 there is a slight difference in the spirits, which I will 
 describe. 
 
 To make Crimson Spirits for the Crimson Vat. 
 
 Get a large stone pitcher and put thirty pounds of ni- 
 tric acid, and twenty pounds of muriatic acid in it, and 
 well mix them. Add your tin slowly, put it by in a 
 warm place while it is working, and when it is done 
 put it in a stone bottle, with a stopper in it, and it will 
 be fit for use in a month. 
 
 To make a French Crimson Vat with Peachwood. 
 
 This is a cheaper wood than the Brazil, it makes very 
 good crimson, but not so good as Brazil ; the boiling off 
 
96 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 and every other part of the process is the same, so I will 
 not trouble my readers with a repetition, as spirits and 
 all are alike except the woods. 
 
 Directions for making a Crimson Vat with Sapan Wood, 
 
 or Brasiletto. 
 
 The process of making this vat is exactly the same as 
 the above two vats. Some persons like it better than 
 peach wood ; in my opinion it is for brightness between 
 the two, not near so good as the Brazil, but a little brighter 
 than peachwood, without the body or strength of good 
 peachwood. 
 
 To Dye Silks Puce with the Puce Vat. 
 
 Have a copper kettle, well scoured and rubbed dry 
 with a cloth; bring it over to your vat, and nearly fill it 
 with your copper bowl ; put the kettle on your stand, 
 under your kettle pegs, open out your work and handle 
 in the liquor, never leaving it until you have the color 
 you wish, which is obtained, generally, in about twenty 
 or thirty minutes, sometimes less. When done, fold the 
 silks up on your kettle peg, and give them three waters, 
 put them on a peg to drain, and turn back the puce 
 liquor in to the puce vat, stirring it well. Before you 
 leave, well cover it over. Now tell your man to hang 
 up your puces. This is the first working of the new 
 puce vat you have had, and if it turn out well every 
 week it is worked it will improve, so be careful of the 
 liquor ; every fifth or sixth time it is used it will want 
 a little helping with spirits. Now we have done the 
 French puces. 
 
 To Dye Silks Crimson with the Crimson Vat. 
 
 Put a clean copper kettle beside the crimson vat, and 
 nearly fill it with your copper bowl out of the crimson 
 vat ; put it under the kettle peg, and open your work 
 
SILK DYEING. 97 
 
 and handle it in the liquor, and give it more time than 
 you would the puce, but rinse and get up in the same 
 manner, saving your liquor as before. 
 
 At this stage of proceedings I must let the secret out 
 that good and economical crimsons are not sisters, they 
 have no relationship. 
 
 This vat after all the trouble and expense, gets dragged 
 out, as dyers call it, and we are obliged to vat our work 
 first, then rinse, then give it a peach or Brazil pure-wood 
 liquor and put back in the vat again ; then rinse in two 
 clean waters and hang up in a hot room to dry. 
 
 To Dye Silks Crimson with Alum and Peachwood or Brazil. 
 
 Put your kettle on a stand, and put in about two 
 pounds of ground alum. Sort your work and handle it 
 in this liquor for an hour ; don't leave it during that 
 time. Now get up your silks and give them one clean 
 water ; fold and put to drain on the peg. Have, boiled 
 up and cool, by you, the first, second, and third boiling 
 of seven pounds of peachwood, or two pounds of Brazil, 
 for that is their proportionate strength. Now, all your 
 boils being turned over in your cistern (see page 18), 
 begin and dye your silks. Have a clean kettle, and put 
 four pails of your boiled up dye-stuff into it, and handle 
 your silks in it for twenty minutes ; get your work upon 
 your peg, and throw this liquor away, and give another 
 liquor of the same sort ; and also at the same time fold 
 up your work again, and throw this liquor away, and put 
 three pails of warm water in your kettles. Put your 
 work in the liquor for ten minutes, fold up on the peg 
 smooth, wring in a clean sheet, and hang up to dry in a 
 warm room. When dry, damp, brush, and frame, and 
 the work is done. This was the method of dyeing crim- 
 son with peach and Brazil before the vats were thought of. 
 
 To Dye Silks Ruby in the Alum way. 
 
 You must dye them crimson first, with peachwood, 
 as above, and in your third liquor put in a pint of red or 
 
 7 
 
98 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 blue orchil. Handle your silks in this liquor in the 
 kettle, and lift the kettle so as to swim in a boiling copper; 
 keep handling your silks in the kettle until it is a great 
 deal too hot for your hands; now lift them out of the 
 copper, fold out of this liquor ; they must be got out of 
 this liquor and dried, and by no means rinsed ; take your 
 wringing sheet and pass it through this liquor, and wring 
 up your silks in this sheet ; smooth them out after this, 
 and wring up. Hang them up in a warm room to dry, 
 and when dried, damp, brush, and frame them, and they 
 are done. 
 
 Remarks on Dyeing the Alum way on Silks. — In 
 my instructions to dye alum crimsons, I gave the way 
 of dyeing with hot alum, as a preparation; now this is 
 not the usual way of preparing alum work of any sort ; 
 the common and the best way of preparing silks to suck 
 up any dye-stuff, is by giving them cold alum, and a 
 good time in it; the silk by this mode of using, gets 
 time to imbibe the crystals, which crystals carry the dye- 
 stuff; alum cements, as it were, the dye-stuff to the silk, 
 or, more properly speaking, floss of the silk. In dyeing 
 alum work on silk, if the two first liquors used be too 
 hot, it is sure to melt the crystals of the alum, and you 
 have a poor color. When you have your dye-stuff on 
 your silks, you must then finish with a hot liquor with 
 some peach or Brazil liquor in it; hot water only will 
 injure your color. Hot clean dye-stuff liquor takes the 
 alum out, brightens the wood, and makes the silk wet 
 freely in the frame. 
 
 To Dye Tabaret Crimson without a Crimson Yat, Alum, 
 
 or Sumach. 
 
 Begin and clean it in one of your tubs with the best 
 melted mottled soap, with a little soda in it, as hot as 
 you can bear your hands in it, hotter if you like. I 
 want all the color taken off; if it is crimson off it must 
 come. Also when cleaned, spirit it in a tub of cold 
 water, directly out of the soap liquor, while the soap is 
 
SILK DYEING. 99 
 
 fat in your work ; give them one cold water out of this 
 and put them on the peg to drain. Cleanse out one of 
 your spare cold coppers, and fill it with scalding hot water, 
 and put one quart of neat crimson spirits in it for every 
 twenty yards of tabaret ; handle it in this very quietly 
 for two hours; get it up to drain, and give it one tub 
 full of clean cold water, and hang it up in a warm stove 
 room to dry quickly. You may dye this when dry 
 in Brazil or peachwood, boiled in the usual way, but 
 you must put this work into the boiled- up dye-stuff, very 
 hot, that is the extract from the three boilings you give 
 your chips. It is to be put into an empty copper, well 
 cleaned before you put it in, through a sieve. Take 
 your tabaret, dry as it is, and in one armful, and after 
 opening it, put it into your boiled-up dye-stuff, and push 
 it down with a stick ; now handle it well for an hour, 
 take it up on your clean puncher on your copper three 
 times during that hour, and put it back again. When 
 the hour is up, throw it on your puncher, and give it 
 one quart of crimson spirits, for every twenty yards of 
 tabaret ; handle it in this liquor for one hour more, and 
 it is dyed; fold up on your puncher, and put it on a peg 
 to drain. The next is three clean cold waters separately, 
 fold up out of the last water, wring, and hang up to dry 
 in a very hot room. When dry, damp, brush, and water 
 them, and they are done. 
 
 Remarks. — It is absolutely necessary to dry, and 
 quickly too in a hot room, this work out of the first 
 crimson spirits, it is the mordant, as they suck up all 
 the dye-stuff when put dry in the copper, and as a 
 matter of course they are a fine color ; you may depend 
 on the reverse if you do not dry them. 
 
 THE COCHINEAL. 
 
 "Cochineal is the body of the female insect which is 
 produced, grows, is fecundated, attaches itself to, and 
 dies upon the leaf of a napal called cactus, from which 
 it draws the juice. Its body dries on it, and is collected 
 
100 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 by the natives of South America, who particularly culti- 
 vate and take care of this insect. The wild cochineal, 
 which is enveloped in an external spinning, is dis- 
 tinguished from that which is cultivated, and which loses 
 this covering, at the same time acquiring a greater bulk 
 and a richer color. This production has long been con- 
 sidered as a seed. It is in Mexico that the cochineal is 
 cultivated, and also spontaneously produced. Its form, 
 its structure, the number of its rings — all its characters, 
 in short — develop themselves when it is steeped some 
 time in water. Its coloring part has been particularly 
 an object of attention, as it is from this that its great 
 use in the art of dyeing arises. The muriate of tin 
 gives a deposit of a beautiful red, which is more abund- 
 ant when tartar is added to the decoction. Cochineal 
 is the most valuable of the red coloring matters which 
 are employed in dyeing. The red crimson, poppy, orange, 
 violet, and scarlet dyes are done by it. Carmine is pre- 
 pared from cochineal. It is a kind of lac precipitated 
 from its decoction, mixed with alum by the alkalies. 
 Autour and kouan are mixed with it, in order by their 
 yellow to render the too deep red of the cochineal lighter, 
 and obtain the brilliant color of the carmine." — From 
 "Fourcroy's Chemistry," Volume x. page 497. 
 
 " A little while after the cochineal became known in 
 Europe, the scarlet process by means of the solution of 
 tin was discovered. It is stated that about 1630 Corne- 
 lius Dribbell observed, by an accidental mixture, the 
 brilliancy which the solution gave the infusion of cochi- 
 neal. He communicated his observation to his son-in- 
 law, Kuffelar, who was a dyer at Leyden. He soon 
 improved the process, kept it secret* in his workshop, 
 and brought into vogue the color that bore his name. 
 The discovery of the scarlet dye may be regarded as the 
 most remarkable era in the art of dyeing, not only by the 
 lustre but also the brilliancy we can impart by means of 
 the same process to other colors. The color which 
 cochineal gives naturally is a pretty crimson."— r From 
 Dr. Ure's " Elements of the Art of Dyeing," Volume i. 
 page 24. 
 
SILK DYEING. 101 
 
 To Dye Silk Crimson with Cochineal or Grain Crimson. 
 
 Fill your alum tub with clean cold water, and for 
 every fifteen yards of silk, melt in it eight ounces of 
 alum ; when that is done, open out your silks and han- 
 dle them in your alum tub for five minutes, then take 
 them up on a peg and put them back again and leave 
 them for twelve or fourteen hours, much longer if you 
 like, but they must be taken up and returned every six 
 hours. Clean out a copper and fill it up with clean 
 water, and for every fifteen yards of silk, put in four 
 ounces of cochineal. Make it boil before you put in the 
 cochineal. Continue to boil well for ten minutes, and 
 leave, and get your silks up out of the alum and give 
 them one clean water ; fold them up and put them on a 
 peg to drain. Now stop the cochineal copper from boil- 
 ing, by gently damping the fire so as to keep your cop- 
 per to a scald ; open out your silks and handle them in 
 the cochineal copper with a clean stick, for half or three- 
 quarters of an hour at the utmost; then get them up and 
 rinse them in two clean waters, wring them up with a 
 clean sheet, and hang them up in a dry room. When 
 'dry, damp, brush, and fram'e them, and they are done. 
 , Some dyers put a little ground galls boiled in the cop- 
 per, and a little tartaric acid before they put in the 
 cochineal to boil. 
 
 Another way to Dye Grain Crimson. 
 
 Alum cold as above, rinse in two clean waters, then 
 put two ounces of crimson grain spirits in the copper 
 with the cochineal. After you see that it boils, damp 
 down the fire, and put it in, stirring it well. Now open 
 out your silks in the copper, and give them exactly the 
 same process as the above. 
 
 Remarks. — These crimsons are the finest colors, and 
 cochineal is now so cheap, that I am sure they will be 
 more generally adopted. 
 
102 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 To Dye Silk Scarlet in Grain. 
 
 First give them a very strong body of annotto, and put 
 them for a night in cold alum ; rinse, and give them a 
 cochineal copper scalding hot, with two ounces of scarlet 
 silk grain spirits to every China crape shawl, and every 
 fourteen yards of silk you may have to dye scarlet in 
 this week's working of scarlet silks. In rinsing the 
 scarlets you must give them three clean waters, and a 
 little oil of vitriol in each separate water ; they must be 
 got up with great care, the room must be very hot. Dry 
 and finish with parchment size. 
 
 To Dye Orange with Cochineal. 
 
 Oranges must follow the scarlets in the annotto and 
 cochineal coppers, as what is left is quite strong enough 
 for the orange colors. They are cleaned, dyed, dried, 
 and dressed in every way alike ; but the scarlet having 
 the strongest dye-stuff, requires to be done first. 
 
 To Dye Silk Puce with Alum. 
 
 Open out your silk and handle well in cold alum, let 
 it lie there for a night if you cannot find time to dye it 
 at once. So much the better, it will be a firmer and 
 richer color ; but you must take your silks up and put 
 them back in the alum twice in that time. When you 
 are dyeing them, you must proceed in every way like 
 the alum crimsons, only this difference, that in your 
 peach liquors, you must put in one pint of logwood 
 liquor to every gallon of peachwood ; they are rinsed, 
 dried, damped, brushed, and finished alike. 
 
 Violets from Brazil Wood and Logwood. 
 
 Silk for these violets must be alumed, cooled, and 
 rinsed as usual. It is dipped in a'liquor of Brazil wood, 
 of the common heat ; when it has imbibed this liquor a 
 
SILK DYEING. 103 
 
 decoction of logwood is added, and the color being pro- 
 perly full, is then changed by adding some lixivium of 
 pearlash. It is afterwards washed, wrung, and dried as 
 usual. — From Monsieur Macqueer's " Art of Dyeing 
 Silk." 
 
 Half Violet. ■ 
 
 For one pound of silk, take a pound and a half of 
 orchil, mix it well in the liquor, make it boil for a quarter 
 of an hour ; dip the silk quickly, let it cool, wash at the 
 river, and you will have a fine half violet lilac, more or 
 less full. — From Monsieur Macqueer's " Art of Dyeing 
 Silk." 
 
 To Dye Silks Marorie with Alum and Peachwood. 
 
 Handle your silks well in the alum cistern ; give them 
 as long as you can in it, handling them every six hours. 
 When you are ready to dye them, fold up and give them two 
 clean waters, and put them on a peg to drain. Now dye 
 them, by putting four pails of cold peachwood neat, into 
 a clean copper kettle, and handling your work in if. 
 Now lift the kettle to swim in a boiling water copper,- 
 handle you work well in this liquor all the time it is 
 floating. W^hen it gets too hot for your hands, get it 
 out on your stand, and fold it up on the peg, and put in 
 half a pound of cudbear. Stir this well in your kettle, 
 and put your work back again, and lift your kettle into 
 the boiling copper to swim a second time. Keep hand- 
 ling in this until it gets too hot for your hands, and now 
 you must use a clean stick, keep turning over the stick 
 for ten minutes, and get the silks out of the copper on 
 the stand, fold them up on the peg, throw away the 
 liquor you dyed them with, and give them three warm 
 waters in the kettles ; fold them up on the peg, get a 
 clean sheet, wring, fold, and hang them up in a warm 
 room. Damp, brush, and frame them, and they are 
 done. 
 
 Remarks. — You will please to observe that these ma- 
 
104 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 rone silks have been dyed in one liquor instead of three, 
 as is the usual way in the trade ; and that after rinsing 
 them, I began with neat cold peachwood liquor, and got 
 it on by degrees. By putting the kettle to swim in the 
 boiling copper, this will be a splendid color when it is 
 dry. In the framing it will wet like a sponge. 
 
 Silks Dyed Claret with Alum and Peachwood. 
 
 Open out your silks and handle them well in the alum 
 cistern, give them not less time than six hours, longer if 
 you can. When your time is up, fold them up out of 
 the alum, put them under a peg to drain, and next give 
 them three separate waters. 
 
 Observe, that no alum work is to be allowed to remain 
 in the water any longer than while you are rinsing it. 
 
 Now fold up your silks, and put them on a peg to 
 drain, and begin to dye them. For shortness, I must 
 refer you to the marones, and when you are going to put 
 in the cudbear, you must also put in half a pound of tur- 
 meric and a quart of logwood liquor; after these drugs 
 are put in, put your work in the kettle, lift the kettle 
 into the boiling copper ; and now I will leave you to dye. 
 Rinse, and afterwards hang up to dry, the same way the 
 marones were done. 
 
 Terra Japonica, Catechu or Cutch. 
 
 This is a substance containing much tannin, and is a 
 dry extract prepared from the wood of a species of sen- 
 sitive plant named Acacia Catechu ; it was long consid- 
 ered an earthy substance, and termed Terra Japonica ; 
 it is an East Indian plant and grows abundantly in 
 mountainous districts ; it grows to about twelve feet in 
 height, the trunk about a foot in diameter, and covered 
 with a thick, dark brown bark. The extract which is 
 obtained from the tree is made from a decoction of the 
 wood. As soon as the tree is felled all the exterior 
 white wood is cut off, the interior or colored wood is 
 
SILK DYEING. 105 
 
 cut into chips. Narrow mouthed earthen pots are 
 filled with the chips and water-heat is applied, and when 
 half the water is evaporated the decoction, without 
 straining, is poured into earthen vessels and is reduced 
 two-thirds by boiling; it is then set in a cool place for 
 a day, and is afterwards evaporated by the heat of the 
 sun and kept stirred all the time, and when very thick 
 it is spread on a mat covered with the ashes of cow dung 
 and is dried in the sun, and is then fit for sale. It is 
 a brilliant compact substance, of a dark brown or choco- 
 late color, has no smell, is soluble in cold or hot w T ater, 
 of a reddish color, and has a great amount of tannin and 
 a peculiar acid in it named Catechuic acid. 
 
 Acids brighten the color of the solution, alkalies 
 darken it, it gives fawns, drabs, olives, and browns with 
 it, and any sort of iron liquor, nitrate and sulphate of 
 copper a brown, bichromate of potash a deep red brown, 
 and is an agent in the hands of the dyer for stuffing all 
 sorts of silks for dark colors by adding nearly double 
 weight to the natural silk. It throws sumach and galls 
 into the shade for this honest purpose, and rots the silk. 
 
 There are various qualities of catechu in the market 
 differing considerably in their value as a dye, Bombay, 
 Bengal, and Malabar is the best. From "Napier's 
 Manual of Dyeing," p. 263. 
 
 Silks Dyed Hair-Brown and Rappee with Alum and 
 
 Peachwood. 
 
 Put your silks in alum, and dye them exactly like the 
 claret, and when you come to rinsing them up for a 
 finish out of the dye-stuff, stop there, and instead of 
 rinsing them, give them a good hot copperas and water 
 in a kettle to both colors. Let them be a quarter of an 
 hour in this, well handling them all the time; get them 
 up and rinse them in two cold waters, and put them 
 back in your dye-stuff kettle, and lift the kettle into the 
 boiling copper to swim ; when too hot for your hands, 
 get it out on your stand, and fold them up on the peg, 
 
106 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 taking the hair browns and giving them to your man to 
 rinse and hang up as they are done. Your rappees are 
 not done yet ; you must return them into the copperas 
 kettle, making it a little stronger with more copperas. 
 Handle your silks well in this for a quarter of an hour ; 
 get them up and rinse, and return them into the liquor, 
 put it to swim in the scalding copper, and when too hot, 
 get it out on a stand; fold, rinse, and hang them up, and 
 they are done ; when damped, brushed and framed. 
 
 To Dye Silks Claret with Cochineal. 
 
 Put your silks and China crapes into your alum 
 liquor, see that it tastes pretty sharp of the alum; han- 
 dle your silks well in, and get them up on your peg, 
 and put them back directly. You must not give this 
 work less than six hours in the alum, you may give it 
 two days if you like, but you must fold it up and put 
 it back again every six or eight hours. When it suits 
 you to dye it, fold up and put on a peg to drain. For 
 every dozen yards of silk you have to dye claret, give 
 eight ounces of cochineal, and boil it up in the copper 
 you intend to dye them in for ten minutes ; now open 
 the copper door and gently damp the fire, put your work 
 in the cochineal liquor, and handle it for ten minutes ; 
 then get up and for- every dozen yards of silk put in the 
 cochineal liquor, add four ounces of turmeric and half an 
 ounce of Aleppo galls in powder; the silks to be put 
 back again into the liquor with these additions to it, and 
 handled well for twenty minutes. While you are hand- 
 ling your work in the copper, tell your man to make up 
 a hot saddening in a clean kettle. Get your work up 
 and sadden it for about twenty minutes in the liquor. 
 Get it upon the peg, and rinse it in two clean cold 
 waters, and return it to the copper again. Keep up your 
 copper to a scald all this time; now give it twenty 
 minutes in this copper, and get it up, rinse, and it is done 
 so far. Dry it in a good hot room, and when dry, damp, 
 brush, and frame them with clean parchment size. 
 
SILK DYEING. 107 
 
 Remarks. — This is a superior claret on silk — so simple 
 that any person can do it; it is cheaper than Brazil, for 
 you have only to put what cochineal you may want into 
 the copper, and it is ready for use, whereas you have to 
 boil up the Brazil before you use it. It depends on the 
 pattern whether your work will require a second sadden- 
 ing and a second return in the dye-stuff copper; it will 
 be a stronger color if done so. 
 
 To Dye Silks Yellow with Alum and Weld, 
 
 To dye silks a bright yellow you must give them a 
 fresh alum liquor. Handle them well in for five minutes, 
 take them up and put them back and leave them for a 
 night. Clean out your copper, and for every dozen yards 
 of silk give three pounds of weld, and one ounce of soda; 
 boil the weld for one hour, and strain through a sieve, 
 and it is ready for use. Fold up your silks out of the 
 alum and rinse them in two clean cold waters; fold 
 them up and dye them. Open out your silks and 
 handle them in the weld for an hour, and they are dyed 
 a very nice bright yellow. Give them two clean blood- 
 warm waters, wring, and hang them up in a warm room 
 to dry; when dry, damp, brush, and frame them, and 
 finish with care. 
 
 Remark. — If your silks are for full yellow, you must 
 add a little turmeric to your weld, it improves them very 
 much. Some dyers prefer getting the work that is dyed 
 with weld out of a soap liquor instead of warm water ; 
 the silk has more lustre out of the soap. 
 
 To Dye Silks Gold Color with Annotto, Alum, and Weld. 
 
 This color must have a very slight body of annotto 
 first; then alumed, rinsed, and dyed in a weld liquor, 
 the same way as the silks for yellow; then rinsed, wrung, 
 hung up in a warm room to dry, and finished. 
 
108 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 To Dye Silks and Furniture Amber with Alum, Weld, 
 
 and Annotto. 
 
 Silks to be dyed amber must have a buff ground, 
 dyed with annotto, then alumed, and dyed with weld 
 and turmeric. The turmeric is to be much stronger 
 than for gold color. When done, to be rinsed and 
 finished as above. 
 
 Remarks. — Dyers very seldom use weld, for it is a 
 very slow process; the usual way for silks, satins, damask 
 curtains, tabaret and other silks for amber, is to clean 
 them and give them annotto in a soap copper boiling hot, 
 and give them turmeric in a separate copper also, with 
 spirits in it, and a couple of waters after. Dry them in a 
 hot room, damp, brush, and frame the silks, and send the 
 tabarets to the waterer's. The damask curtains are to 
 be framed. Baverstock's finishing for these damasks is 
 much superior to rolling or framing. 
 
 To Dye Brown Amber with Cudbear, Annotto, and 
 
 Turmeric. 
 
 Clean out a small copper and make it boil. Put half 
 a pound of soda in it, a bowlful of melted soap, a quarter 
 of a pound of cudbear, and a quart of annotto liquor. 
 Boil all these drugs for ten minutes ; open your copper 
 door, and put half a pail of cold water in. Have a 
 couple of clean sticks on it for your use, and open out 
 your silks and handle them in the liquor for twenty 
 minutes. Have a thin soap liquor by you, and when 
 the time is up, take your silks out of the copper, and 
 put them in it, and well handle, and fold them up on 
 the puncher-head. Have a clean cold water and spirits 
 to handle them in out of the thin liquor ; fold up out of 
 this and put them on the peg. Now proceed to dye 
 them. Clean out a copper kettle and put one pound of 
 turmeric in it, and six pails of scalding water, well stir- 
 ring the turmeric as you put the water in; now cover it 
 over for ten minutes. While you open out your work 
 
SILK DYEING. . 109 
 
 uncover it, and handle it in the turmeric kettle for five 
 minutes, now fold it up on the peg and put in your 
 liquor a tablespoonful of oil of vitriol; stir this well and 
 put the work back again in the liquor for ten minutes, 
 well handling it all the time. When it is dyed, fold it 
 up and give it two clean waters, with a little sour in 
 each water, fold it up, wring it in a clean sheet, and 
 hang it up in a warm room to dry. Damp, brush, and 
 frame it, and it is done. The time this lot of work has 
 taken me to dye it and hang it up to dry, is two hours. 
 
 To Dye Silk Straw Color and Primrose with Ebony. 
 
 Scald half a bowlful of ebony in a pail of water, in a 
 clean kettle, strain off the ebony, work it in a clean ket- 
 tle with a little sour. Some dyers use a little soap in- 
 stead of sour. Rinse in a clean water, and hang up to 
 dry. The straw color has a slight touch of annotto in 
 it before you give it the ebony. Some dye in the strong 
 ebony liquor that the primroses leave ; not in the prim- 
 rose liquor, that is thrown away, but in the scalded 
 liquor strained. 
 
 To Dye Silk in the Puce Vat Violet. 
 
 Turn lover a thin puce vat into a kettle ; open out 
 your silks and handle them in it until they are a poor 
 puce color. Get them up, and rinse them in two warm 
 waters, and put them to drain while you turn over the 
 puce vat in the cistern (see page 20 and page 92), and 
 put four pails of warm water in the kettle, and scald up 
 half a pint of Saxon blue in a quart stone mug. (See 
 Saxon blue in page 60.) Put a little common sour in 
 your kettle with a half a pint of this Saxon blue, and 
 handle your silks until you bring them to your pattern ; 
 if they are not blue enough take them up and give them 
 more Saxon blue in the same liquor, aud get them up 
 on your peg to drain. Now turn this blue liquor into 
 the green liquor cistern (see page 19 and 70), and give 
 
110 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 your silks two clean waters with a little common sour 
 in each water, fold them up, wring, and hang them up 
 to dry. When dry, finish them in the usual way, and 
 they are done. 
 
 Remarks. — This is one of the colors that I always 
 sheet up dry in my shawl sheets, and brush them ready 
 for the frame, without putting them up to dry. I con- 
 sider there is no occasion, as I sheet them up dry. 
 The shawl sheets I have been using, I return to my man 
 to give a couple of hot waters and hang up in the warm 
 room, to be ready to sheet up the silks and the shawls 
 when wanted. 
 
 Meaning of Common Sour, as a Binder of Colors. 
 
 As I have so frequently to mention common sour, 
 it is proper that such of my readers as are not dyers and 
 scourers, should understand what it means — it is simply 
 vitriol put in clean waters to harden or fasten the colors. 
 Where there is blue, green, scarlet, or crimson, we put it 
 in the water, slowly stirring it all the time until it tastes 
 sharp ; we then give our work a cold water after it. 
 Common sour is of great importance in cleaning and 
 dyeing, although it has a common name ; and dyers cannot 
 do without it. In giving the work a cold water after 
 the common sour, it must be done quickly, as* if it is 
 kept long in the water it will take the sour out of the 
 work entirely, and we do not want that. 
 
 To make a Peach and Lavender Vat from the Puce Vat. 
 
 Have an earthenware vessel that will hold four pails 
 of water ; let it be about eighteen inches high, and twelve 
 inches wide, fill it with clean water within a pailful of 
 the top ; first put in common sour, until you make it 
 taste ; then put three quarts of puce spirits into your 
 clean copper bowl, and put it into the vessel very quickly, 
 do not delay a moment, stirring it well with a clean 
 stick. Put in half a pint of your puce vat (see page 92), 
 
SILK DYEING. J 111 
 
 and stir it well with a clean stick. • It is now fit for use, 
 and called the lavender vat, and we will begin and dye 
 peach color with it first. Open out your silks and 
 handle them in the vat for about ten minutes, fold up 
 and rinse them in two clean waters, and they are done. 
 When dry, damp', brush, and frame them. The French 
 blues that are to have a lavender, are to be done after 
 the peaches, but there must be no Saxon blue in a lav- 
 ender vat you intend to put the French blue through, 
 nor any other blue. They must have a clean peach body 
 of color only on them. All old work for French blue 
 ought to have this vatted peach color on them and dyed 
 directly for French blue. , 
 
 To Dye Silk Lavender in a Lavendar Vat. 
 
 There are various shades of lavender: I will begin 
 with red lavender first. Put about a teaspoonful of the 
 scalded Saxon blue in the liquor, and stir it well ; now 
 open out the work and handle it in the vat for twenty 
 minutes. Get it up, rinse it in two cold waters, and 
 make the two waters taste a little with common sour. 
 Wring it and hang it up, and it is done, at least as far 
 as the dyeing goes ; it has to be damped, brushed, and 
 framed, and is then completed. 
 
 To Dye Silk Gray in a Lavender Vat. 
 
 This vat, helped with a little more Saxon blue, will 
 dye another lot of silks lavender. Before it will dye the 
 gray, the red must be nearly worked out of it, and then 
 we will begin the gray silks. It is very simple. To 
 the vat as it is, put a little Saxon blue, and have a clean 
 white saucer, and look at your pattern. Take a little of 
 your vat up in your saucer, and see if the liquor is the 
 color of your pattern ; if not, add very little more puce 
 vat and blue to it. You must always at first keep your 
 dye liquor under your pattern. It is very easy to add 
 to your liquor more dye. In fact, a good dyer is like a 
 
112 loye's dyer and scourer. 
 
 good jockey; he nurses his horse in the race, and only 
 wants to win by a length ; more he does not want. And 
 a good dyer will dye his silks to his pattern, and no more. 
 Now open your silks, and handle them for twenty minutes 
 or half an hour in this liquor, and if they are to your 
 pattern, get them up ; if not, give them more color and 
 more time, and fold them up on your kettle peg to drain. 
 Clean out a copper kettle, and give them two rinsing 
 waters, and make them taste with a little common sour ; 
 fold on a clean puncher-head, wring them up in a clean 
 sheet, and hang them up in a warm room to dry, and, 
 when dry, they are ready for dressing. 
 
 ^Remarks. — These are some of the colors that I always 
 sheet up dry in the shawl sheets. I never hang them 
 up, but brush them directly after I sheet them, and fold 
 them up in a clean cloth, and put them in the drawer 
 for framing. I lose no time by sheeting them up, for 
 they would take some time to hang up and take down, 
 besides damping, and the danger of an accident with 
 such a light color. In the skein dye-houses and drying 
 rooms, there is no fear of accidents. The work is not 
 of such a mixed description as with dyers and scourers. 
 
 To Dye Silk Drabs in the Lavender Vat different ways. 
 
 The lavenders and grays are done in this liquor first. 
 But we shall dye many other colors with it before we 
 leave off. We will now proceed with the drabs. Boil 
 up two pounds of fustic, or ebony, in two gallons of 
 water ; it must boil well for an hour with a pinch of soda 
 in it, strain this off through a fine sieve, and place it 
 handy by you. Let your light drabs be the next. Do 
 not put anything in your liquor after your grays, except 
 a pint of this ebony liquor; stir it up well, and handle 
 in your silks for light drab for twenty minutes, and they 
 are done; rinse them in two cold waters, with a little 
 sour in each water, and hang them up in a hot room to 
 dry. 
 
 The next drab you dye in the vat is a dark stone drab. 
 
SILK DYEING. 113 
 
 In page 74 you will see I have dyed drabs another way, 
 with sumach and saddening. Put in your vat now half 
 a pint of puce vat, one quart of ebony liquor, and a 
 tablespoonful of the scalded Saxon blue; open out your 
 silks, and handle them well in the liquor for half an hour, 
 and they are dyed a dark stone drab. These must be 
 rinsed and got up like the other drabs. 
 
 The next drab you will dye in this liquor,' is the drab 
 you have no pattern for ; now where we are not confined 
 to a pattern, and the color is left to ourselves, as in this 
 case, we can do the customer more justice, for when we 
 are confined to a positive pattern, it puts our wits to 
 work. Now this drab is the drab of all others I like ; 
 there is no adding or diminishing the liquor in the vat, 
 for it is a Godsend to me, that have been working a* 
 lavender gray and drab patterns all day, not to have a 
 pattern to the last. Open out your silk, and handle it 
 for half an hour in the vat ; fold it up on your kettle peg 
 to drain ; give it two clean cold rinsing waters, with the 
 sour to taste in each water; wring it up and sheet it in 
 your shawl sheets. Do not leave it until you brush it, 
 and place it in a clean cloth in the drawer for framing. 
 
 To make Fawn Color Drabs, 
 
 Boil one ounce of fustic, half an ounce of alder bark, 
 and two drachms of orchil, or as it may occur. I 
 frequently make use of old madder liquor that has been 
 used for dyeing reds, when nothing but the brown dregs 
 of the madder remain, the red having been all extracted. 
 But if the madder is boiled an hour or two strongly it 
 has the same effect. From one to four drachms of the 
 best crop madder must be added to a very small quan- 
 tity of old black liquor, if at hand. Supposing you re- 
 quire your silks to be darker, if you have no black • 
 liquor, a small piece of copperas will answer the same 
 purpose. — From " Tucker's Family Dyer and Scourer." 
 b 
 
114 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 To Dye Silk Fawn Color and Esterhazy Drab in the 
 
 Lavender Vat. 
 
 Put to the same liquor you have been using one pint 
 of puce spirits, half a pint of puce vat, and the remainder 
 of your ebony liquor. Dye your silks for dark fawn first ; 
 get them up and rinse them, and hang them up to dry 
 in a warm room. The next color you dye is the light 
 fawns. Open them out, and handle them in this vat 
 for twenty minutes, and they have done. Rinse in two 
 waters, wring and hang up, and finish them. 
 
 The next color in this vat before you have done with it 
 is Esterhazy drab. Put one pint of puce vat to this 
 liquor, and clean out a kettle well. Turn this liquor 
 i,nto it, and open out your silks, and handle them ; now 
 lift your kettle in to a boiling copper to swim, handle the 
 silks in it all this time, and when it gets too hot for your 
 hands, take it out of the copper and put it on a stand, 
 fold up and rinse in two clean cold waters with a little 
 sour in them, wring up in a clean sheet, and hang them 
 up in a warm room to dry. When they are dry, damp, 
 brush, and finish all these colors with parchment size. 
 
 Remarks. — The lavender vat is a very useful one in the 
 dye-house, as you may see from the number of colors I 
 have dyed in one vat. I have done nine very opposite 
 colors, and to count six different shades for every one of 
 these nine colors, it would make fifty-four pieces of silk, 
 of fifteen yards each piece, in a vessel holding between 
 five and six pails of lavender vat, and the other dyes 
 put in it to produce the different colors. Even after this 
 vat has turned out of it so many different colors, it is not 
 thrown away. Add about a quart of puce spirits, and put it 
 where the puce and crimson vats are, and when the drab 
 silks are to be dyed again, it is as good, if not better, 
 than it was at first, with fresh blue ebony and puce vat. 
 The puce, crimson, and lavender vats, must be put by 
 themselves, covered over in some dry place out of the 
 way. 
 
SILK DYEING. 115 
 
 To Dye Silk Ruby, Violet, and Lilac, with Orchil. 
 
 There are two kinds of orchil, one called rock or land 
 orchil, a kind of moss, the production of the rocky 
 mountains of Spain and Portugal; the other the sea or- 
 chil, comes from the Canary Island and the West In- 
 dies, and is gathered near the sea-side, and is sent to 
 London as it is gathered. The materials used to de- 
 velop its coloring properties are urine, potash, saltpetre, 
 and lime ; it is steeped in very large wooden vats. The 
 orchil manufacturers live near Spitalfields, that part of 
 London w 7 here skein silk dyeing and weaving silk is 
 principally carried on. It is sold weed and liquor to- 
 gether, and sent to the drysalters and dyers in little fir- 
 kins of a quarter of a hundredweight each. It is a 
 splendid but a fugitive dye-stuff. It is a self-color requir- 
 ing no preparation; you have only to put it in the copper, 
 give it a boil, damp your fire, open out your silks, and 
 handle them in it. It will not by any art yet found strike 
 on cotton or linen. It is also made into a paste, and the 
 summer muslins are dyed lilac with it, a little flat blue, 
 and pretty peach violet ; and lilac flowers are stamped 
 on summer muslins with it and gum, but they wash out 
 the instant they are wetted. It is different with silk 
 goods, they will clean with care ; it wili dye woollens 
 as well as silk, but it is seldom used, as it is too dear ; 
 they suck up too much. 
 
 Should any of my fair readers have a fancv, as many 
 have, to dabble in dyeing, I must inform them there 
 is red and blue orchil, as it is sold at this end of London 
 at Barnes', drysalters, in Long acre. A pound of it will 
 dve manv little articles in silk, used either with or with- 
 out soap, and a little lemon juce should be used in the 
 rinsing water if a pinkish shade is wanted. 
 
 To Dye Silk Ruby, Peach, Violet, and Lilac with Orchil. 
 
 Clean thoroughly the little copper, and fill it with 
 clean water, and put half a bowl ot orchil in it ; do not 
 
116 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 take the liquor only, but take the weed with it. Let 
 your copper fire be damped and put your work in. 
 Handle it easily in your copper for half an hour, and 
 have a little kettle clean at hand to cool your silks in. 
 Take the silks up out of the copper, put them in your 
 little kettle, handle them over for a minute or two, and 
 fold them up on a puncher-head ; then give them to your 
 man, and tell him to give the rubies three clean sepa- 
 rate cold waters, and hang them up to dry in a warm 
 room, and you begin the violets in the ruby copper. 
 
 Damp down your copper fire and turn over every drop 
 of your ruby copper weed and liquor into one of your 
 spare kettles, merely rinse your copper with a pail of 
 clean water ; dry out the copper, and do not let a par- 
 ticle of the weed remain in it. Now, put your sieve 
 over your empty copper, and turn through the sieve the 
 orchil liquor you just turned into the kettle. The weed 
 may be thrown away, as it is of no further use. Put a 
 handful of soda in your copper, and a little melted soap, 
 so as to make a thin soap liquor of it (it must be a thin 
 soap liquor, you must mind that). Open out your silks 
 for violet, and handle them with a clean stick in your 
 copper for a half an hour ; have a nice clean warm soap 
 liquor with a little Saxon blue in it ; handle the silks 
 in this for ten minutes, fold, wring, and hang up in a 
 warm room to dry. 
 
 The reader will understand I am working blue orchil 
 now ; in page 98 he will see I worked red orchil. 
 
 The lilacs go into the copper next, after the violets. 
 Put in your copper a little more melted soap, no more 
 color is required, and dye them the usual way, and dry 
 them. 
 
 Make your copper much stronger with soap, and dye 
 the French whites. You must have a clean thin soap 
 liquor for those out of the copper, and give them two 
 warm waters after, wring, and hang up to dry, and, 
 when dry, take them down, and damp, brush, and frame 
 them. The reader will see that 1 began my instructions, 
 for dyeing silks with dyeing blue, and 1 now finish with 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 117 
 
 dyeing French white, and will please always to bear in 
 mind that work too closely hung up in a hot drying- 
 room has the color materially affected by the vapor or 
 steam drawn off the goods, and that all work should be 
 hung up directly it is cleaned or dyed, and, when taken 
 down, folded before they are left, as work taken down 
 out of a hot room and not folded gets creased, which 
 never comes out — particularly woollens. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 THE ART OF DYEING AXD SCOURING. 
 
 Wool in its Natural State. 
 
 The wool of the sheep is most likely the first article 
 that was ever dyed by man. A taste for brilliant and 
 glowing colors has prevailed in all countries and in every 
 age ; and though dyeing, like most other arts, seems 
 indebted for its origin to accident, it can be traced to 
 very high antiquity. We learn from Genesis that Jacob 
 presented his favorite son, Joseph, with " a coat of many 
 colors ;" and as the Jews soon after their departure from 
 Egypt, understood the art of dyeing purple and scarlet — 
 an art they most probably learned there — it is pretty 
 certain that at least 1500 years before Christ, dyeing 
 was practised by the Egyptians. These latter people pro- 
 bably derived it from one or other of the nations of India 
 with whom they traded. The ancient Britons, Welch, 
 and Irish used to dye the sheepskin with the wool on 
 it, by the means of chamberlye and a plant called woad. 
 
 Wool, like any other hair, is a kind of tube, filled up 
 with oily matter. When this is expelled by cleaning, 
 its place is taken by the dye-stuffs. Of all substances, 
 on account of its porous nature, wool is the easiest ma- 
 terial to be dyed, and will suck up any quantity of color 
 
118 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 given to it ; for when the oily matter is expelled, we can 
 plainly see it is ready to receive any light particles of 
 color that by degrees may insinuate themselves, by force 
 or otherwise, into the empty tubes. That is evident, 
 from the simple cause of attraction. I say this not from 
 reading or theory, but from every-day experience for a 
 number of years. 
 
 There are many w T ays of cleaning wool as it comes 
 from the sheep, but the easiest and best way is to clean 
 it in soap and soda, or ash; for the ash that turns the 
 natural oil that is in it into soap. You can see that the 
 tubes are filled with an oily matter, that only requires 
 an alkali to turn it immediately into soap. There is no 
 alkali that will injure w^ool if used with care and judg- 
 ment. Certainly, if Dyers and Scourers will use scald- 
 ing-hot soap and ash liquors to woollens, they will rot 
 the fabrics. Dyers know this, yet I have seen it done 
 in my time, and that by men who ought to know better. 
 
 Wool as it is sheared from the sheep is called fleece. 
 Before it can be dyed any color, it must be cleaned of its 
 natural fat. Good wool, for light colors, must be cleaned 
 in soap. Inferior wool is cleaned in chamberlye, hand 
 heat, and afterwards well rinsed and put to drain before 
 it is dyed. It loses in cleaning twelve pounds to every 
 hundred-weight, more or less. Some kinds of wool do 
 not lose so much as others. Boiling water will have no 
 effect in taking the grease out. It binds it more than 
 it serves the wool. Soap, pearlash, and soda only will 
 remove the oil from the wool. The goodness of the color 
 entirely depends on the cleaning it gets before it is dyed. 
 To clean the wool for dyeing as it comes from the sheep 
 mottled soap is the best. Considering the state of the 
 arts among the ancients, and comparing them with what 
 they are at present, we frequently find that they w 7 ere 
 ignorant of nothing of what we either know or do — this 
 is true with regard to dyeing, as the practice of our 
 work in producing colors on silk, cotton, and woollen 
 fabrics is the same and answered the same purpose cen- 
 turies ago as it does now : viz., for clothing and furniture ; 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 119 
 
 but how they dyed these colors we are entirely at a loss, 
 for there are books on all subjects before the birth of 
 Christ handed down to us from generation to genera- 
 tion. But there has never been one book on dyeing 
 written by an English, French, or an Egyptian practical 
 dyer to this day — it has always been chemists, and they 
 know nothing of practical dyeing — a chemist's shop and 
 a dye-house are different places. No practical dyer ever 
 wrote his practice but myself. 1 have made a beginning, 
 and I hope something better will follow. 
 
 Our scouring of wool, ungumming of silk, and clean- 
 ing of cotton for dyeing is nothing more than the same 
 operation, perhaps differently performed for these dif- 
 ferent substances, but intended for' the same purpose, 
 that is to divest them of the unctuous and extraneous 
 matter which prevents the colors from adhering and tar- 
 nishes their brightness. The color white being the 
 reflection of all the rays of light, it follows that bodies 
 are incapable of being whitened till divested of his inhe- 
 rent substance, which obstructing their pores, prevents 
 the reflection of the light. Alkaline salts act most 
 powerfully on this substance because it is of an oily 
 nature. Alkalies are generally used either in a pure or 
 a soapy state. Acids are used for the same purpose on 
 cottons in whitening them, and to divest them of a sub- 
 stance that will not yield to alkalies. Wool is commonly 
 cleaned with fermented urine, which forming a soap 
 with the unctuous matter, easily carries it off. In order 
 to divest silk of its natural yellow it should be boiled in 
 soap and water. Fixed alkalies would do as well, but 
 these are not used because they naturally corrode all 
 animal substances. It was formerly the custom of the 
 ancients to clean their wool with a struthian plant, which 
 might be used in the ungumming of silk. It is called 
 struthian by the Greeks. The root of this plant has 
 the virtue of giving to wool softness and an astonishing 
 whiteness; it grows on cultivated ground, and it is 
 naturally the same plant that is called soapwort in this 
 country, and is used to this day by the country people. 
 
120 love's dyer and -scourer. 
 
 Some persons call it the fulling herb for woollen fabrics. 
 This soapwort grows near rivers and ponds, and has a 
 long reddish fibrous root, broad leaves, like a plantain. 
 There are several plants that can be used for the same 
 purpose ; first, pellitory, growing in old walls and ruins ; 
 second, macule, the stalk and leaves, when pounded, 
 make a sediment which is used for soap. There is also 
 a seaweed called leferon, on the sea shores, the leaf 
 is fat and has a salt taste; its flower white and bell- 
 shaped — a species of soldanilla — this was also used as 
 soap. There are other plants the ancients used as soap, 
 viz., the peplos, or round spurge or poppy, the small 
 field spurge, and the large field spurge, and marsh 
 tithymal, otherwise called black or bastard turpeth, 
 which grows on the banks of hedges, rivers, and ponds. 
 All these plants have an abundance of milky caustic 
 juice in them, which always has plenty of scouring and 
 alkaline properties in them. 
 
 There is a plant used by the natives of California as a 
 substitute for soap, called paphron, which answers very 
 well for every purpose in scouring. The ancients, as 
 well as ourselves, always burnt seaweed and trees to make 
 powerful alkalies. Turpentine was always used for 
 cleansing purposes, and lately it was discovered, when 
 distilled, it would clean, by immersion in it, the most 
 delicate fabrics and colors, and this distilled turpentine 
 is now called camphene. To this day, in the country, 
 they make a lye for washing — the liquor is sour butter- 
 milk put in a large tub, and bran, oatmeal, and rye flour 
 put in it, and kept in until it becomes sour, and the 
 juice of sorrel is used in the last rinsing waters to 
 whiten the articles. To bind and improve the colors, it 
 is stiffened with potato-starch for a finish; — so, in fact, 
 dyeing and scouring is not a modern invention, it always 
 was in use and always will be. Such minute inquiries 
 may perhaps be thought instructive. Some will say that 
 these plants were used at a time when soap was but 
 little known; but, as soap is so easily and cheaply pro- 
 cured, there is no necessity for using them now. 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 121 
 
 There is a quantity of ammonia in rain water which 
 makes it soft and fit for washing. Some people think 
 it is the lime in the roofs of houses that makes rain 
 water soft — it is no such thing. 
 
 He-cleaning Manufactured White Woollen Cloths, for 
 White, Blue, White, Scarlet, and other Colors. 
 
 Fleece, or wool, intended for white, pale blue, gray, 
 rose, amber, crimson, scarlet, and other single colors is 
 manufactured before it is dyed ; because, from the pro- 
 cesses it has to go through before it is made into warp 
 and weft for the weaver's loom, you could not prevent 
 hairs of another color from mixing with it. How would 
 a • white look with numerous hairs of scarlet wool 
 scattered all through it] and how would a scarlet look 
 w r ith a number of white hairs in if? The woollen-draper 
 perhaps tells you the cloth he is selling you is dyed in 
 the grain, and you take his meaning to be that it is dyed 
 in the fleece. No such thing. You can see that is im- 
 possible, for there is no hindering it from taking up 
 these different colored hairs in the workshop that is 
 flying about. Moreover, there are many of these colors 
 got up with acids in them, which would die and the 
 color become flat, to say nothing of the dirt of the 
 hands and the machinery in spinning. 
 
 Made-up woollen cloth, intended for milk-white, is 
 cleaned in the best soap, well rinsed in clean water, 
 with a little sour in it; hung up in a hot stove room, 
 and bleached with brimstone burnt under it. Manufac- 
 tured white woollen cloths, intended for blue white, are 
 cleaned in soap, with Saxon blue drawn off a blue 
 blanket in it — (see page 50) — rinsed with a little sour 
 in the water, hung up in a hot stove, and bleached with 
 brimstone. (See my description of a brimstone stove 
 in page 40.) Woollen goods for scarlet are washed with 
 clean soap, rinsed, and dyed off directly. Rose-color, 
 drabs, and all sorts of reds are cleaned in soap ; worsted 
 serge and all sorts of merinos are cleaned in the best 
 
122 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 mottled soap, rinsed and put to drain, ready for the dyer 
 when he wants them, which must be immediately after 
 they are cleaned. 
 
 As I finished the subject of ungumming, cleaning, and 
 dyeing the skein silk by dyeing the whites, I must 
 leave the wool in the fleece and manufactured with the 
 whites cleaned, dyed, and hung up in the stove room to 
 bleach and dry. And here I must stop for the very 
 same reason I had in stopping at a certain point when 
 treating of the skein silk dyeing — that is, because the 
 same dye-house, coppers, waters, spirits, and drugs are 
 required for the old woollens as for the new. 
 
 After carrying the reader thus far, I shall describe 
 how manufactured woollen cloths, moreens, damasks, 
 merinos, and other woollen goods — old or new, made up 
 into garments or in the new pieces — are cleaned, re- 
 dyed, and re-dressed, so as to look as nearly like new 
 as possible. 
 
 The trade of dyeing and scouring has come to so much 
 perfection of late, by. competition among the trade, that 
 the masters have been put to their wits' end to produce 
 the best work they can, to improve their business, econ- 
 omy being the order of the day. The public, too, are 
 becoming good judges of dyeing ; and it is seen that al- 
 most in all cases the dyers and scourers clean, dye, and 
 finish their work so as to make it look as well as new, 
 they become extensively patronized, as may be perceived 
 by the number and respectable appearance of their shops 
 in London and the provincial towns. The business is 
 not the same as it was forty years ago. Since then fric- 
 tion calenders have come into operation ; and in the 
 present day, bed and window furniture of printed cotton 
 can be cleaned and finished nearly equal to new, and 
 woollen damasks and moreens can be cleaned and dressed 
 by machinery lately introduced into the trade equal to 
 any new. Besides, we do not require anything like the 
 time we used to take to dye and clean the work. Every- 
 thing in the dyeing business is altered for the better. 
 It is true we are worse paid than we used to be, but 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 123 
 
 this must be taken into consideration, that we take 
 less time to do our work and pay less for our drugs, so 
 we have no cause to grumble. We have more work, 
 for there is not a journeyman dyer to be had in London ; 
 all are in work. Our good season is just beginning, and 
 we do not know where to find men to do the work. 
 
 Cleaning, Spiriting, and Preparing for Dyeing Woollen 
 Cloths, French Merinys, Damasks, Moreens, and other 
 Woollen Goods, various colors. 
 
 The night before the woollens are to be cleaned take 
 ten pounds of the best mottled soap melted in the large 
 copper, a fire put under it ready to clean the woollens 
 in the morning. See that the work is properly marked 
 and tacked, and a list made out of the colors they are 
 wanted to be dyed. In the morning put all your wool- 
 lens on the board, and sort them for cleaning, taking all 
 the light colors first. Qrder your man to make up two 
 strong soap liquors,- with a little pearlash in each liquor, 
 and one thin liquor. Begin with the whites and blues 
 first, with one to three soap liquors, one spirit water, 
 and one clean water after spirit, and hang them up to 
 dry, and they are cleaned, spirited, and dry, ready for 
 dyeing next morning. You will now proceed with 
 cleaning the rest of the woollens, and be sure to have 
 the soap well in them, and put them into a common 
 sour that will taste strong, while the soap is fat in them, 
 and give them one clean water after the spirits. If you 
 have many woollens to clean, you must give them two 
 clean cold waters after the spirits, then fold up and put 
 them on a peg to drain. The work must have time 
 in the spirits to allow the acid to overcome the alkali, 
 and so to turn all the soap that is in the woollens into 
 grease ; on that account your spirits must be pretty strong, 
 and be regurlarly and well handled while they are in it. 
 Most all dyers clean and dye their woollens off without 
 drying, but I find it more to my purpose to clean, pre- 
 pare, and dry the woollens, for they are rarely ever un- 
 
124 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 even or stained, and there is another advantage, the drugs 
 go further, and I have always a job to put in a man's 
 hands when I am at a loss for one. 
 
 Sort your woollens now, and put all up to dry, except 
 the marone merinos, and claret merinos, and all sorts of 
 brown merinos. Clean out a copper that will hold six 
 pails of water, with two pounds of alum, two pounds of 
 copperas, and one pint of muriate of tin ; boil them well 
 in this for half an hour, handling them well over a clean 
 stick all the time. Now get them up on the tenter-hooks 
 in the dye-house to cool, and when quite cold, rinse them 
 in two clean cold waters, and dry them with care. This 
 little copper will not take more than three merino dresses 
 at one time, that is twenty-one yards of merino for this 
 quantity of alum, copperas, and spirits. On this scale 
 there can be one yard, or one hundred yards prepared 
 for dyeing ; of course the less quantity, the less prepa- 
 ration, whilst a larger quantity must have more mor- 
 dant, and a larger copper. You must dry this work, as 
 I intend it to be dyed in a cudbear copper. There are 
 many other ways of dyeing merinos, marones, clarets, 
 and browns, such as peachwood, camwood, logwood, 
 fustic, &c, after this preparation, but this is a favorite way 
 of mine. 
 
 To clean forty yards of Scarlet Moreens, and forty yards of 
 Scarlet damasks for Re-dyeing. 
 
 Take as much of the best mottled soap as will clean 
 forty yards of scarlet moreen and forty yards of scarlet . 
 woollen damask, and cut it into thin shavings in a kettle, 
 tub, or pan ; pour boiling water on it, stir it, and then 
 cover it well over, and give it time to melt in the water, 
 stirring it now and then, still keeping it covered over 
 until the soap is well melted. While the soap is melt- 
 ing, make up a blood warm water, and put a pound of 
 soda in a bowl, and melt it with scalding hot water, and 
 pour this soda into your warm water. Open out all the 
 scarlet moreens and damasks on a board, and first take 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 125 
 
 the moreens up in your arms, and put them into your 
 soda and water at once;, punch and handle them well in 
 this for ten minutes, and then fold them upon the punch- 
 er-head, and put them on a peg to drain ; while they are 
 draining, you must be careful not to let them touch the 
 ground or work of another color, or they will be stained, 
 and next put the damask in this liquor, punch it well, 
 fold it up, and put it on a peg to drain also. Now make 
 up a warm water, not too hot for the hands, but quite as 
 hot as you can bear to keep your hands in it ; melt one 
 pound of soda into this, and one third of the soap you 
 melted (say five pounds), stir it well, and open out your 
 work as you did at first, and put it in this clean hot soap 
 liquor ; punch it well and handle it over and over while 
 in this liquor, and still keep punching it about to force 
 the dirt out of it ; keep doing so for ten minutes, then 
 fold it up on your puncher-head, and put it on the peg 
 to drain ; let the damask follow — do the same with it, 
 put it to drain, and throw this first soap liquor away. 
 Now make up in the punching tub another liquor of 
 soap, soda, and hot water as you did the first ; put your 
 moreen in it first, and keep punching and handling it 
 as you did in the first soap liquor, and give it only ten 
 minutes, as before, and fold up on your puncher-head, 
 and put on the peg. Now the damask is to follow as 
 above and turn this soap liquor over into the old soap 
 liquor cistern (see page 19), and give them another warm 
 soap liquor, separately as before, but no soda in it this 
 time. Open out your moreens, and put them in, well 
 handling and punching them for five minutes only, and 
 get them up ; you must be quick now as your color is 
 beginning to come off, as you can see by the liquor drain- 
 ing from the peg before ; turn this liquor into the old 
 soap cistern, and give them another clean soap liquor, 
 the moreens going first as before ; fold up and put on a 
 peg to drain, turn over your soap liquor, rinse your tub 
 and fill it with clean cold water and make it taste well 
 with common sour ; open out your work, fat out of the 
 soap as it is, and handle it well in your tub with the com- 
 
126 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 mon sour in it ; give it twenty minutes in this, folding 
 it up once in the time, and putting it back again in the 
 spirits for ten minutes longer. Now fold up, and put 
 them on the peg to drain, and throw the spirits away, 
 and give them two clean cold waters ; fold them up and 
 put them on the peg to drain, and hang them up in a 
 warm room to dry, and they are ready to pick and shake 
 out the ends for finishing, and, when finished, they are 
 ready for delivery to the owner. 
 
 To clean Scarlet Worsted and White Cotton Damask 
 Curtains, made up together for Re-dying. 
 
 Before I proceed any further in cleaning woollens, I 
 must explain to my readers the reason why I clean those 
 woollens that have scarlet, crimson, blue, gray, green, and 
 their fringes, by themselves, and never leave them until 
 I hang them up to dry. The greater the care that is 
 taken in cleaning these colors, the less harassed the color 
 that is on them, and the better it is for them in the re-dye- 
 ing and drying before they are dyed ; it makes them a 
 plumper and a better color than when dyed wet. For 
 instance, when I am obliged to dye forty yards of scarlet 
 moreen or damask, a good bright, bold color, 1 cannot do 
 with less than a pound of cochineal, but when I dry it after 
 cleaning, I only require to use three quarters of a pound, 
 and it makes a brighter scarlet, so I save a quarter of a 
 pound of cochineal by drying. The next forty yards of 
 scarlet moreen or damask to follow the above in the same 
 scarlet copper, I only require half a pound, but the work 
 must dry first, and to follow another scarlet, or half a 
 pound would not dye it. These white cotton or worsted 
 damasks are to be cleaned every way like all worsted 
 damask, but must be cleaned quicker than the other 
 because, being so thin, the color would sooner start ; 
 neither do they want so much cleaning. Dry this also. 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 127 
 
 To Clean Crimson Damasks and Moreens for Re-dyeing. 
 
 The scarlet moreens and damasks should always be 
 cleaned and hung up to dry, out of the way, before you 
 begin to clean the crimsons for dyeing. The soap 
 liquors left from the scarlets may be used in cleaning the 
 crimsons; you need not put any fresh soap to these old 
 liquors ; but finish cleaning the work with fresh clean 
 soap liquors; spirit and rinse these as you did the scar- 
 lets. My next work will be to clean and dye fifty yards 
 of damask, pale blue. 
 
 Directions to Dye fifty yards of White Worsted Damask a 
 Pale Blue or Sky Blue. 
 
 Clean in three clean soap liquors, and spirit them 
 while the soap is fat in them, one water after the spirit, 
 fold them up on a puncher out of the water, and put 
 them on a peg to drain. Clean out your large copper, 
 and fill it up with clean water, and get it on to a boil 
 quickly ; when it begins to boil, throw in a handful of 
 alum. Watch your copper, and skim off the scum the 
 alum will throw up to the top as fast as it comes up, or 
 it will drop down in the liquor again. Damp your fire 
 gently, and do not let it come near a boil, while you are 
 dyeing your blues. Scald half a pint of Saxon blue (see 
 page 60) in a clean stone jar, with one quart of water, 
 stir it well with a clean pipe stopper and put it by to 
 settle for a minute ; make your copper hardly taste — 
 very little indeed — with common sour (see page 58), and 
 put in half a pint of Saxon blue you have scalded ; stir 
 your copper with a clean stick, open out your work and 
 put it into the copper, and handle it well for twenty 
 minutes ; take it up and look to your pattern, and give 
 it another half-pint of the scalded Saxon blue, and put 
 your damask back in the copper, and handle for twenty 
 minutes longer. If the work is to your pattern, take it 
 up out of the copper, and make it taste sharp with 
 common sour; give it only ten minutes in this, and get 
 
128 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 it on the tenter-hooks in the dye-house to cool ; rinse in 
 a couple of clean cold waters, and fold it up on your 
 puncher-head. Hang the work up in a hot or cold room 
 to dry, and when dry, send it to be pressed, and it is com- 
 pleted. 
 
 Another way to Dye the above fifty yards of Damask Pale 
 
 or Sky Blue. 
 
 Begin to dye your work with a copper of clean cold 
 water, half a pint of alum, scalded in a bowl and poured 
 into the copper, half a pint of Saxon blue, and a table- 
 spoonful of oil of vitriol. Open out your work, put it 
 all into your copper at once, and tell your man to put a 
 fire under the copper, and to mind it from time to time, 
 so that it comes to a scald in an hour. All this while 
 you keep handling your work with your hands in the 
 copper. When half an hour is up, get up your work 
 and give it half a pint of Saxon blue scalded, from the 
 quart stone mug. Put the work back into the copper, 
 and handle it well for a quarter of an hour; by this time 
 it will be too hot for your hands ; tell your man to draw 
 the copper fire, throw some dry rubbish on the bars, and 
 shut the copper door. Get up your work for a third 
 time, and give it another half pint of the scalded Saxon 
 blue and a quarter of a pint of oil of vitriol; stir it well, 
 and put your work back for another (the fourth) quarter 
 of an hour, and it is dyed a very pretty, solid, pale blue. 
 
 Remarks. — No time has been lost in dyeing this blue 
 by beginning on a cold copper, for I have dyed it within 
 the hour; next I began my first blue with my copper 
 scalding hot; so there is no difference as to economy. 
 My readers will please to understand that ten yards 
 require no less time than a hundred yards, but a hun- 
 dred yards wants more dye-stuff than fifty yards. 
 
 Another way of Dyeing Pale Blues on Woollens. 
 
 Put one pint of neat Saxon blue into two pails of 
 scalding water, in a small kettle, and put two pieces of 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 129 
 
 blanket in it, about a yard square, and put the kettle to 
 swim in a boiling copper, for half an hour; then get it 
 out, and put your blankets to drain over the kettle they 
 were in ; turn over the blue that is left in the kettle into 
 the green liquor cistern (see page 19), and well rinse the 
 blue blankets, and put a handful of soda at the bottom 
 of the kettle, and half a pail of boiling water on it to 
 melt it ; then add a pail of water to it, and put your ket- 
 tle in a boiling copper to swim. Now put in your blan- 
 kets to draw the blue off them, to dye fifty yards of 
 white damask a pale blue. When the blue is all drawn 
 off the blankets, take the kettle out of the copper, 
 put the blankets to drain on a peg, and the kettle under 
 them. When drained sufficiently, make the blue that 
 is in the kettle, drawn off the blue blankets, taste 
 with a common sour ; clean out well the large copper, 
 and fill it with clean cold water within two pails 
 of the throat. Melt half a pint of ground alum in it, 
 and put half a teacupful of oil of vitriol, and half your 
 blanket blue. Open out the damasks, take them up in 
 your arms, and put them in your blue copper, and tell 
 your man to put a fire under it, as quickly as he can, 
 whilst you still keep handling your damasks. In half 
 an hour get them up, and give them the remainder of 
 the blue in the little kettle. Put them in for fifteen 
 minutes longer ; get them up, and put in half a teacup- 
 ful of oil of vitriol ; put them back again for ten minutes, 
 draw your fire, and get your work up on the tenter- 
 hooks in the dye-house to cool ; when cool, give them 
 two cold waters ; fold up on a puncher-head, and put 
 them on a peg to drain ; then hang up in the drying 
 room, and when dry, send them to the pressers, to be 
 finished — this is a sky blue, one of the finest of our 
 colors, and that from the extract off the blanket. 
 
130 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 Directions to Dye fifty yards of White Damask. Tale or 
 Sky Blue, with Indigo Powder from Balsall Heath 
 Color Works, Birmingham. 
 
 To do justice to this splendid extract of indigo, I can- 
 not do better than give the first three lines of the cir- 
 cular I had with a tin case ; it is as follows : " Having 
 recently discovered a method of dissolving and purifying 
 indigo, and again concentrating it to a powder perfectly 
 soluble in boiling water, and ready for immediate use," 
 &c., I have used it, and very good blue it makes. I will 
 now dye these fifty yards of damask blue with it, by 
 putting a teacupful in a clean quart jug, pouring boil- 
 ing water on it gently, until I have filled the jug, stir- 
 ring it well with a pipe stopper all the time. I then 
 put it on a shelf out of the way, and it is ready for use. 
 
 Clean out the big copper, and make it boil, with pure 
 clean water ; open the copper door, and damp the fire. 
 Put in half a pint of ground alum ; skim off the skum that 
 the alum will throw up, and put in half a small teacupful 
 of oil of vitriol and a pint of Balsall-heath blue, scalded 
 in the quart jug on the shelf. # This done, open out your 
 work, end lift it into the copper ; give it twenty min- 
 utes, and then get it up ; put in half a pint more, of the 
 same blue ; then give twenty minutes more, and get 
 them up, and give them the remainder of the blue 
 and a teacupful of oil of vitriol in your copper; stir 
 it well, and put in the work again, and give it twenty 
 minutes more in this liquor, handling it all the time. 
 Now get them up on the hooks in the dye-house to cool ; 
 and when cold, give them two separate cold clean waters ; 
 fold up out of the waters, and hang up to dry, and they 
 are ready for finishing. 
 
 To Clean and Dye Moreens Pale or Sky Blue. 
 
 There is no difference in cleaning and dyeing moreens 
 pale or sky blue ; the only difference is in the finish- 
 ing. Moreens, when dyed, are only a plain, thick stuff, 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 131 
 
 not fit for use in that state ; but when they are watered, 
 striped, or embossed, they look as well as new, and pay 
 the customer very well for having them re-dyed. 
 
 To Dye and Clean Blue Worsted and Cotton Damask Far- 
 niture, and Table Covers of Blue Worsted and White 
 Cotton. 
 
 Blue Damask furniture and table covers are cleaned 
 and dyed exactly the same as the other blues, only we 
 use very little acid in the copper we dye them in. We 
 do not let it taste ; if it did, it would rot the cotton. 
 We rinse and stiffen them directly we have dyed 
 them, and hang them up to dry. 
 
 To Dye Waterloo Blue or Moreens and Damask. 
 
 Clean your copper, and make it boil ; and for twenty 
 yards of moreen or damask, scald in a brown stone mug 
 half a pint of Saxon blue; put a handful of alum in 
 your copper, half a pint of liquid ammonia, and a tea- 
 spoonful of common sour.. Put in half your Saxon blue, 
 open out the work, and handle it in the copper for twenty 
 minutes; get it up, put in the remainder of your blue, 
 and give it twenty minutes more. Get it up, and hang 
 it on the tenters in the dye house to cool; when cold, 
 rinse it in two clear cold waters, and hang it up to dry. 
 
 Remarks on Saxon Blues. — This Waterloo blue 
 would dye after the pale blues; but it being a separate 
 blue from the pale blues and the sailors' blues, I prefer 
 using it by itself. When we dyers commence with our 
 pale blues, we follow with our darker pale blues, and 
 take them up, and give them to our man to rinse and 
 get up. More Saxon blue in the copper is requisite; 
 and so we go on, lot by lot, until we come to a black. 
 We can begin at a copper with clean water only in the 
 morning, and dye the sky blues ; then the full pale 
 blues-; next the fullest pale blue; then the Waterloo 
 blue ; and by adding cudbear only to the copper, make 
 
132 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 dark blues, and darker still, down to a black. Saxon 
 blue will accomplish all this, if well studied by the dyer. 
 Now we will work a pale blue copper another way. 
 After you have dyed your Waterloo blue, it is a capital 
 copper for grass greens, with ebony. Take them up, 
 and fill your copper out of your old green slate cistern, 
 and dye your visible and invisible greens with the one 
 liquor you began the pale blues with, before you throw 
 it away. 
 
 To make a Woad Vat, that is a Blue Vat — a Vessel to 
 Lye Blue Woollens or Tatted Blue, 
 
 You must have a wooden vat made, of yellow deal 
 two inches thick, six or seven feet high, six feet wide, 
 and eight feet long, well morticed together ; it must be 
 very strong and water-tight, and buried three feet in the 
 earth on a brick and cement bottom. A four inch wall, 
 joined to the bottom, must be all round it, on a level 
 with the floor, that in case the vat should leak, there 
 would be no means of escape into the earth. There 
 should be wrought iron girders put on the four angles 
 outside, to keep it firmer. So with the bricks, cement, 
 earth, and iron, you must prevent its leaking. 
 
 The next thing to provide is a portable wrought-iron 
 frame to drop nearly to the bottom of the vat, to keep 
 the work from touching the drugs. A corded netting, 
 made tightly to fasten to the four sides of the iron frame; 
 and when the vat is fit to work, this frame is generally 
 lowered down, and made fast to the sides by cords. A 
 rake is used to rake it up from the bottom, and a frame 
 tentered, to fasten the edges of the cloth inside of, and 
 then dipped down into the vat. The cotton blue vat is 
 made the same way, with rake and frame alike. 
 
 There are regular vat-makers for brewers, distillers, 
 and dyers, and these are the best men to apply to. Some 
 dyers have the bottom made of lead and the sides cop- 
 per ; some have them made w 7 ith cement, sand, and 
 bricks. There are also vats made of tallow, oil, or wine 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 133 
 
 casks, for skein worsted yarn, shifted from one cask to 
 another, until the blue required is obtained. These are 
 mostly dry vats, no woad or pastel being in their com- 
 position ; woad is too bulky for small vessels. 
 
 Pastel, or Woad. 
 
 The pastel is a blue paste formed by the putrefaction 
 and reduction into a kind of compost of the chopped 
 stalks of the isatis. The plant, mowed and dried quick- 
 ly in the sun, is bruised in a mill, and then laid in heaps, 
 which are slightly sprinkled with stagnant water, and 
 guarded against the sun. The fermentation is developed 
 in them after a fortnight. These heaps are opened ; 
 they are bruised, and mixed ; round balls are then 
 formed of them, which are dried by exposing them to 
 the wind and sun. When heaped upon one another, 
 and sprinkled with putrefied water, these balls become 
 heated, exhale ammonia, dry, and are reduced into a 
 blue, which is sold in commerce in this state. It is in 
 the Departments of Gard, Avignon, and Dordogne that 
 this color is prepared in this manner ; in Calvados and 
 the lower Seine one of the inferior quality, called woad, 
 is prepared. Astruc has treated the isatis like indigo 
 plant, and he says he has extracted from it a powder of 
 an indigo color. Mr. Green has described a process 
 practised in Germany for' changing by fermentation the 
 isatis into indigo. This process has a great analogy with 
 the process for the real indigo (see pp. 60, 61). A 
 strong fermentation takes place in the steeping tub ; 
 much froth is formed ; a blue pellicle, of a gold color 
 at its surface, presents itself; and, like indigo, the liquor 
 has to be beaten, to separate the color from it. It is 
 then dried in the shade. It is like the indigo plant, but 
 is less delicate and rich. It is put in vats with indigo 
 and madder, to dye a never-fading dark blue on wool, 
 and was called woad-vats before indigo was known, and 
 will never lose its name at Lansniedoc. Turnfoil is 
 steeped with rags, and in the fermentation the rags suck 
 
134 loye's dyer and scourer. 
 
 a blue color from the .turn foil : the color is then taken 
 from the rags by soda. — Foureroy on Coloring Matters, 
 vol. viii. p. 87. 
 
 Directions to make a Pastel or Woqid Vat — To Dye 
 Wool Royal Blue, in the Fleece or made up. 
 
 Fill your copper with water, and put in it eight 
 pounds of madder. Boil it well ; put a bushel of bran 
 into your empty blue vat, and break well four bushels of 
 pastel balls, dry, on the top of the bran. Keep the 
 madder boiling all this time; draw the copper fire and 
 turn the boiling-hot madder liquor into the blue vat on 
 the woad and the bran, well stirring it all the time. Put 
 the lid on the vat, and cover it close, to keep the steam 
 in, for six hours. Open it, and then rake well, and 
 throw into it a bushel of slacked lime; well rake from 
 the bottom, and all round it, for ten minutes ; cover well 
 over again, and leave it for twelve hours, raking it four 
 times in that time. Rake it each time quickly, and 
 cover over directly, so as not to let it cool too soon. 
 
 Boil up eight pounds of ground indigo, two pounds of 
 madder, a pailful of bran, and four pounds of pearlash, 
 in the big copper (see page 1.8). Boil these well fo: an 
 hour, and keep well stirring all the time. When the 
 hour is up, draw all the fire, and shut the door; and put 
 into the copper two pounds of raw lime finely slacked in 
 powder, so slowly that it will occupy one hour. Now 
 uncover your vat, and turn over your indigo copper into 
 it (the first copper was the woad copper), and keep 
 raking it all the time. Now cover it over, and leave it 
 until it gets cold, raking it every four hours, - still keep- 
 ing it covered; and it is fit for use. You must renew it 
 every time it is worked. — Colbert's work on the Art of 
 Dyeing Wool. 
 
 Remarks. — Woad, or, what is much stronger, pastel, 
 always dyed the blue woollens of Europe until indigo 
 was brought here. M. Colbert was one of its principal 
 opponents, as afterwards he was one of its principal sup- 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 135 
 
 porters; and his blue vats have never been surpassed to 
 this day. 
 
 To make an Indigo Vat for Dyeing Woollens Royal 
 
 Blue, 
 
 Fill your large copper with water, and get it into a 
 boil ; while it is yet cold, put into the copper twelve 
 pounds of ground indigo, and eighteen pounds of pearl- 
 ash, three pounds of madder, and one peck of bran ; keep 
 raking up these drugs all the time it is coming to a boil 
 — never leave them. When the copper comes to a boil, 
 open the door and damp the tire gently, so that it will 
 simmer for an hour and a half. Still keep to your copper, 
 and do not leave it for a moment ; keep raking it all the 
 time it is boiling, lest it should stick to the bottom. 
 When your time is up draw your copper fire out, open 
 your copper door, and get your cistern ready to run the 
 liquor in your copper into it. When all the liquor that 
 is in the copper is turned into your vat, fill it up with 
 clean cold water, and it is fit for use. It must be helped 
 after it is worked. 
 
 Remarks. — You must soften with a little ash the clean 
 water you want to fill up your vat with at any time. 
 When this vat is streaky, like mottled soap, it is fit for 
 use. 
 
 Fuller's Earth used for cleaning the Dyeing Stuff out of 
 Dyed Woollen Cloths and thickening at the same time. 
 
 Fuller's earth is taken from pits at Nutfield, near 
 Reigate, Surrey. It is used for cleaning the dye-stuff 
 and grease out of the woollen fabrics after they are dyed. 
 The place they are taken to be cleaned at is called the 
 Fulling Mill. There is a large vessel filled with fuller's 
 earth and water, and the pieces are opened in this, so 
 that the earth may be regular over the work ; the mill 
 is set going — it is always a water-mill — and large lumps 
 of wood come slap on it, up and down, until it is both 
 
136 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 thickened and cleaned at the same time. When all the 
 grease is out, they mill the earth out of it in the same 
 manner, the water running through the mill, and the 
 pieces of wood slapping away at it until all the earth is 
 out; it is then taken to the tenter ground, stretched, and 
 left to dry. 
 
 To Dye Fast Gray on Moreen, Damask, Merinos, China, 
 Crape Shawls, French Delaines, and Silk, of all sorts, 
 for either New or Old Work, and Ladies' Merino 
 Dresses. 
 
 Clean your work well in soap, spirit it out of the soap, 
 and give two clean waters ; fold up, and put it on the 
 peg to drain ; sort your work, and after sorting, put by 
 safely that part which is not going to be dyed at present. 
 
 Give the work a pink dye tinge, with cochineal, in 
 the copper, with scarlet spirits; boil it in this gently 
 one hour ; then take it out to cool. Afterwards rinse 
 in two separate clean cold waters; fold up, and put it on 
 a peg to drain. 
 
 Clean out this copper, and fill it up with clean cold 
 water: melt a little alum, stir it up, and put as much 
 blanket blue (see page 50) in your copper as a part of 
 what you intend to give them to dye them a good full 
 gray. Put as much common sour in your copper as will 
 make it taste but slightly. Put in your work, and tell 
 your man to put a fire under your copper at the same 
 time : this work ought to be blue in an hour. Handle 
 it well for twenty minutes ; get it up and give it more 
 blue ; give it twenty minutes more ; get it up, and give 
 it as much blue now as you intend to give it, with a little 
 more acid, and put it back into your copper for twenty 
 minutes longer. During these operations, your copper is 
 getting on to a scald ; when it comes to that point, draw 
 your fire ; for should your copper only simmer for one 
 moment, your blue is spoiled. In dyeing blues and grays, 
 your must bear this caution in mind. Now get them 
 up to cool, and give them two separate clean cold waters, 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 137 
 
 and put them on the pegs to drain ; tell your men to 
 throw away the blue copper you have been using, and 
 get it on with clean water. And now begin to make 
 them a fast gray, that nothing yet known will take 
 out. 
 
 Hang them up by the selvage, very straight, in a stove 
 room. Put roll brimstone at two ends of the room, in 
 a small iron pot, to stand on a couple of flat bricks or 
 tiles, to keep the pot from the floor. Put a small piece 
 of red-hot iron into each pot, and fill the pot with roll 
 brimstone, and see that they burn before you leave the 
 room. Now close all the windows, doors, fire-place, key- 
 hole, under the door, and make the place air-tight, and 
 let them be in this brimstone room for twelve hours. 
 Mind — if the brimstone escapes in the slightest degree, 
 the work will be uneven. When the twelve hours have 
 expired, open yours doors and windows, and see that 
 your work is a fast gray pattern ; if it is, and is dry, 
 take it down ; if not, keep the windows and doors open 
 until it is dry. When. dry, take it down, fold it, and it 
 is ready for finishing ; should your gray moreens be too 
 dark for your pattern, take them into your dye-house, 
 and give them a blood-warm water, they must be 
 thoroughly dry first, and then hang them up in your 
 stove room. Put a red-hot piece of iron in your pot, 
 the roll brimstone on the top of it, and close your windows 
 and doors as before, and there leave them for the night; 
 in the morning, open your doors and windows, and com- 
 pare your pattern with your work — it is sure to do now; 
 if they are dry, take them down, fold them, and 'they 
 are ready for finishing. One yard or one hundred yards 
 can be dyed this way. 
 
 To Dye China Crape Shawls and Silks a fast Gray. 
 
 Clean your silks, fold them up out of a thin soap 
 liquor, get on your small copper, and dye them French 
 white, with a little scalded cudbear and soap in the 
 copper. Give your silks a simmer for ten minutes, get 
 
138 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 them up, rinse, and dye them in spring water, alum, and 
 blue, off a sheet of full gray. Give them one cold water, 
 wring them up, shake them well, hang them up in the 
 brimstone room, put two pieces of red-hot iron in the 
 iron pots, see that they burn before you leave the room, 
 close all the doors, &c, and leave them for the night; 
 in the morning, see if your silks are to your pattern ; if 
 they are, take them down if dry, but unless they are, 
 they had better stop in the room all day, and keep the 
 windows open ; be sure to take them down before night. 
 Damp, brush, and finish them, and they are done. The 
 China crape shawls are rolled. 
 
 Remarks. — You can dye any gray you like this way, 
 and brimstone all the different colors in the same room. 
 As you sow so you reap in this affair. Whatever color 
 you put them up in the room to brimstone, that color 
 they will come down, as fast as a rock, but lighter. 
 
 To Dye Merinos, Damask, Moreens, and Ladies Dresses 
 
 Gray. 
 
 A Fast Color. — Clean your work and give it the 
 woad vat, when it is very new, or when it is nearly 
 worked down ; they must be well rinsed out of this, and 
 dried in a hot room. 
 
 Not a Fast Color. — Clean your articles and give them 
 a copper with cudbear and Saxon blue in it; they must 
 be boiled well in this for an hour. Get up and cool. I 
 always like to return them in the copper with a little 
 more blue, and a boil for a few minutes, then get up, 
 rinse and hang up. 
 
 Not a Fast Color.-- -I use liquid ammonia instead of 
 cudbear with my Saxon blue — in every other they are 
 dyed alike. 
 
 Directions how to Prepare and Dye Green Woollens. 
 
 Green is a compound color, made from Saxon blue as 
 one sort, and the blue vat as the other. There are other 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 139 
 
 blues we use to dye green, but these are the ones gene- 
 rally used with different sorts of coloring substances that 
 will dye yellow ; and you will see from this explanation, 
 that blue and yellow put together in the same copper 
 with the woollens make them green, and my business 
 •now is to explain how to do it. In the first place, you 
 must make a spirit to work in the copper with the alum 
 greens. 
 
 To make a Solution of Tin, to use in the Copper with 
 Old or Young Fustic, and Chemic Blue to Dye Green 
 Woollens. 
 
 To every pint of the best oil of vitriol put half a pint 
 of water ; put the vitriol first in the jar, then the water, 
 then the vitriol, then the water, and so go on until you 
 make any quantity you like. When the water and 
 vitriol is mixed together, weigh it, and to every pound 
 add one ounce of grain tin, and one ounce of bay salt ; 
 the tin and the salt is to be put in a little at a time. 
 When all the salt and tin is in the liquor, put by in some 
 dry place, with a stopper on it, and it is fit for use. 
 
 To Dye Blue, White, or Pale Drab, Moreens, Damask, 
 Bed and Window Curtains, Ladies* Merino Dresses, and 
 
 f other Woollen Goods. Pale Green with Weld. 
 
 » 
 Clean your woollens well, spirit them out of soap, 
 
 rinse in one clean cold water, fold up, and put them on a 
 
 peg to drain. Clean out your large copper, and fill it 
 
 with clean water, and get it on to a boil. Put in four 
 
 pounds of ground alum, and one pound of crude tartar; 
 
 handle in your work, and boil them well in this for 
 
 one hour, handling them well over a stick all the time 
 
 they are in the copper. When the hour is up, open thfe 
 
 copper door, damp the fire, and take the work out of the 
 
 copper, and cool it. When cool, give it two clean 
 
 waters. Clean out the copper, and get it on to a boil, 
 
 with half a bundle of weld in it, and four ounces of soda, 
 
140 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 and boil it well until the weld falls to the bottom of the 
 copper; then take it out, for all the color has been taken 
 out of it, and it may be thrown away. Now begin and 
 dye your work. 
 
 Scald half a pint of Saxon blue in a quart stone mug, 
 stir it well, and put it to settle. Now put in your copper 
 half a pound of tartaric acid and half a teacupful of 
 scalded blue; then take your palest greens first, open 
 them out, and boil them for twenty minutes. Now see 
 to your pattern, and if you have enough dye-stuff in your 
 copper to dye your work, give them a good boiling for 
 half an hour longer, and get them up to cool, and tell 
 your man to rinse them well, fold them up, and put 
 them on the horse to drain, and hang them up in a warm 
 room to dry, and when dry they are ready for finishing. 
 
 The next green you dye is a dark pale green. Put in 
 your copper another half bundle of weld, and boil it as 
 you did the first half bundle, without the soda; when 
 the weld drops to the bottom of the copper, take it out, 
 and put in another half pound of tartaric acid, and double 
 the quantity of blue you gave the first lot. Now open 
 out your work, and put them in the copper, and dye 
 them in the same way you did the first lot. 
 
 Remarks. — By adding fustic, alum, and blue to this 
 liquor for another, and then adding turmeric and blue 
 for another lot, and by a little manoeuvring with your 
 yellows and blue, you can produce a variety of shades 
 before you throw it away. 
 
 The weld is a plant that grows upon high dykes, with 
 a long stalk to it. In France they cultivate it, and dry 
 it, and make bundles of it, like bundles of straw. I do 
 not know the reason it is not cultivated in England and 
 Ireland, but this I know, it grows wild in both countries, 
 for I have gathered and used it; it is as good as the 
 French weld, yet the French have the trade of grow- 
 ing it and selling it to us — it is a mysterious fact. 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 141 
 
 To Dye Merino Dresses, Damask, and Moreen Window 
 Car fains, and other kinds of Woollen Goods, with 
 Fastic and Chemic Blue, without any Preparation — 
 Pale and Grass Green with Young Fustic, 
 
 Clean your work with soap, spirit, rinse it, and put it 
 on a peg. 
 
 Put one pail of young fustic chips in your copper, 
 boil them well for ten minutes, open your copper door, 
 and put one pound of ground alum, in the copper, and 
 a tablespoonful of oil of vitriol, and half a pint of your 
 scalded Saxon blue. Stir these well with a clean stick. 
 Open out your work and put it in the copper, and boil 
 it well for half an hour. See to your pattern, and if it 
 is a pale yellow green, boil them well for twenty min- 
 utes longer, and get on the tenter-hooks in your dye- 
 house to cool, and give them to your man to rinse well, 
 to take the chips out of them, and hang up to dry. A 
 number of shades can be done in this copper, before you 
 come to the grass green. For the grass green you will 
 put in half a pail more fustic, and a pound of turmeric, 
 and a pint of your scalded blue ; opeu out your work, 
 and handle it well in your copper, for twenty minutes ; 
 now see to your pattern, and if it is not as you wish, get 
 it up, and give it another pint or half pint of your scalded 
 blue, whichever you may think it wants. Put them 
 back now in the copper, and boil them well for half an 
 hour longer, and take them up to cool, rinse, and fold 
 up, and put them on the peg to drain, and when drained, 
 hang them up to dry, and they are ready for finishing. 
 
 Remarks. — 1 am obliged to express at times young 
 fustic, that means the young branches of the tree, and 
 old fustic is the trunk of the tree. 
 
 To Dye Woollen Goods of all Descriptions Green — 
 Prepared first with Alum and Tartar. 
 
 Clean your work well in three or four good soap 
 liquors ; let the last be a thin soap liquor ; spirit your 
 
142 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 work directly out of the soap. You must give them 
 plenty of time in the spirits, and see that it tastes sharply 
 before you take your work out of it. The reason I men- 
 tion this, is that in cleaning garment and furniture 
 work at the beginning of woollen dyeing (see page 123) 
 I took all my woollens down in the morning and made 
 a day's work of them; and as I cleaned them I had them 
 dried, and when dry folded, the list made out, and I was 
 not obliged to dye them all at once. In this way 
 making a cleaning day for the woollens, makes it come 
 cheaper. For one color and soap liquor follows another, 
 and there is no waste. 
 
 Clean out your copper, and get it to a boil with clean 
 water, put four pounds of alum in it, and one pound of 
 crude tartar ; open out your merino dresses, moreens and 
 damasks, and boil them well in this for an hour. Keep 
 handling them well all the time; if you have more wool- 
 lens to dye green than the copper will hold, prepare the 
 damask first, moreens next, and the ladies' dresses next, 
 any other woollens last. The work now must be taken out 
 of the copper, and hung up on the tenter-hooks in the 
 dye-house to cool, and when cool, rinsed in two separate 
 clean waters, and put on the peg to drain, ready for dye- 
 ing. Throw this copper of liquor away, clean it out, 
 fill it with clean water, get it on to a boil and put a pail 
 of old fustic chips in the copper, half a pound of tartar, 
 or a little common sour in your copper, with half a pint 
 of scalded Saxon blue, open out your damasks, put them 
 in the copper, and boil them well for twenty minutes. 
 Now look to your pattern, and see if you require more 
 blue, if you do take your work out of the copper, and 
 put as much blue in as your pattern requires. .Put them 
 back in the copper, and boil w^ell for half an hour ; take 
 them up again, and put as much oil of vitriol in the cop- 
 per as will make it taste, barely taste, 1 mean. Put the 
 work in the copper again, and give it a good boil for 
 ten minutes, damp your copper by rilling it up with clean 
 cold water, and hang up your work to cool out of the 
 copper ; rinse well in three cold waters, fold up, and put 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 143 
 
 on the peg to drain, and hang them up to dry. The 
 next lot of greens to be dyed in this copper must have 
 more dye-stuff put in, that is what the dyers call help- 
 ing it with more dye-stuff, and so we go on dyeing Jot 
 after lot — ladies' dresses and furniture, until we go down 
 to the darkest shade of green on woollens. 
 
 Remarks. — The reader very naturally would like to 
 know how many pounds a pailful of fustic weighs, and 
 what is the price of it. The price of the best Cuba fustic 
 is sixteen shillings the hundred weight, ready for use, 
 and a pailful of fustic chips weighs seven pounds, and at 
 sixteen shillings the hundred weight, it costs one shilling. 
 Young fustic is dearer. At the end of this book the 
 reader will see a list of the drugs and chemicals used by 
 dyers, as well as a list of prices of silk, wool, and cotton 
 in their raw state. 
 
 To Dye Bed and Window Furniture, and Ladies' Merino 
 Dresses any Pattern, Green with Ebony, without any 
 previous preparation. 
 
 We shall proceed to dye fifty yards of damask green, 
 first, for that is about the number of yards there. is in a 
 set of good-sized drawing-room window curtains. If 
 they are green for re-dyeing the same color again, they 
 must be cleaned with great care. Clean and re-dye fifty 
 yards of green moreens with these ; they are to follow 
 the green worsted damask in the cleaning and dyeing in 
 cleaning for re-dyeing. 
 
 Disturb the color that is on them as little as possible, 
 give them a strong spirit out of the soap, and a cold 
 water after, and re-dye them with fustic or ebony at 
 once, that is, when taken out of the shop to clean and 
 re-dye, they should never be left until cleaned, dyed, 
 rinsed, and hung up in the drying-room to dry, but 
 knocked off at once. 
 
 To re-dye this fifty yards of green worsted damask 
 curtains, have a copper that will hold twenty pails of 
 water, get it on to a boil, and put half a pail of ebony in 
 
144 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 it, and boil it for five minutes ; now open the copper 
 door, and put one pound of alum in the copper, stir this 
 well, do not leave until it settles down. Put in your 
 copper a small half of a teacupful of oil of vitriol, and 
 half a pint of your scalded blue, and open out your 
 work, and put them in the copper, and boil them well 
 for half an hour, and compare the pattern with your 
 work, and if it wants no more color, keep it in for an- 
 other ten minutes ; then get it up, and make your copper 
 taste gently with common sour, and a little more blue ; 
 put your work back in the copper, and give it another 
 boil for ten minutes, and it is done. Open your copper 
 door, and fill the copper with clean water, and take it 
 out of the copper, cool, rinse in three waters, fold up, and 
 hang up to dry, and when it is dry, finish it, and it is 
 done. 
 
 We have now fifty yards of green moreen that followed 
 in the cleaning; for these we will put in the copper the 
 liquor the damask left, another half pail of ebony, half 
 a teacupful of oil of vitriol, and half a pint of scalded 
 Saxon blue — no alum, it would make the work clammy. 
 We will dye these exactly the same way as we dyed the 
 damask, but the copper not being so bright a color for a 
 second lot as for the first, we must brighten up the yellow 
 by giving it half a pound of turmeric, and a little more 
 spirits, a quarter of an hour before they are finished ; I 
 do not boil them in this, but when the time is up, take 
 them out of the copper, well rinse in three clean waters, 
 fold thpm up, and hang* them up to dry, and they are 
 done. I have now cleaned and dyed one hundred yards - 
 without leaving off. 
 
 Directions to Dye Ladies' Merino Dresses and other 
 Woollen Fabrics any Green, without any previous pre- 
 paration for the color. 
 
 Take your dresses out of the shop, and your list of the 
 different colors they are to be dyed green, sort them, and 
 clean the lightest first, and so go on until all your 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 145 
 
 woollens are cleaned and on your pegs ; now sort them, 
 and. take the lightest greens first. Merinos for ladies' 
 dresses take more dye-stuff than moreen or damask 
 curtains. So begin with two merino dresses, in a fifteen- 
 gallon copper first ; you can dye one or one hundred 
 French merino dresses in an eight-gallon copper, but 
 they must be done one at a time, as eight gallons is as 
 little a float as you can have to dye a merino dress, and 
 it is quite enough room to dye it in. We can dye a 
 dozen at one time, but we must have a copper in propor- 
 tion to the quantity; the dyer's maxim is all one color 
 — it takes nearly as much time to dye one dress as a 
 dozen. 
 
 We will begin with pea-green first. Put a bowlful of 
 ebony in your copper, make it boil well for a minute or 
 two, make it taste with a little sour, and a table-spoon- 
 ful of your scalded Saxon blue; this will dye two dresses 
 pea-green. By boiling and handling them well over a 
 stick for forty minutes, when your time is up, take them 
 out of the copper, and hang them to cool out of your 
 way. Put half a pint of your scalded Saxon blue in 
 your copper, and dye two more merino dresses pale blue- 
 green, quite an opposite color to the first two dresses you 
 dyed. Boil them well in this copper for forty minutes, 
 and take them out of the copper, and hang them on the 
 tenter- hooks to cool out of the way, and they are dyed. 
 Tell your man to rinse these four dresses well in clean 
 waters, and hang them up to dry. Now put one half 
 pail of ebony in your copper, and half a pint of your 
 scalded blue, and a little more sour, and take two more 
 dresses and dye them a grass green. Give these two 
 dresses one hour's good boiling and good handling, and 
 get them up on the hooks to cool, and tell your man to 
 rinse them, and hang them up. Put another half pail 
 of ebony in your copper, and one pound of turmeric 
 and one pint of scalded blue, and take two more merino 
 dresses, and dye them myrtle green. You must boil 
 them well in this for an hour, get them up, and give 
 them another pint of blue, and a good boil for forty 
 10 
 
146 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 minutes, and take them up and cool them on the hooks 
 in the dye-house, and tell your man to rinse them, and 
 hang them up to dry, and they are done. 
 
 Remarks. — There are four sorts of ebony — the chips, 
 the ground, the sawdust, and the turner's shavings. The 
 latter I consider the best, and I always have it in pre- 
 ference to the others. They are the shavings which the 
 turners make in their ebony work. 
 
 Directions to Dye Green with Quercitron Bark, Woollen 
 Damasks, Moreens, and Worsted Fringes. 
 
 Clean, rinse, and spirit your work, and put in on the 
 peg to drain. Put four pounds of alum into the large 
 copper, and one pound of crude tartar; open out your 
 work, put it in the copper, and boil well for one hour ; 
 take up and cool, rinse in two clear waters, and throw 
 your liquor in the copper away, rinse it, and get it on 
 to a boil with clean water. Now put seven pounds of 
 quercitron bark into a very open cotton bag, and boil it 
 well for half an hour ; then take the bag out of the cop- 
 per, and put in half a pint of muriate of tin, and half a 
 pint of scalded blue. Put in your lightest damask or 
 moreens first, boil well for forty minutes, see how you 
 are for your pattern — if it wants more blue, get them 
 up, and add it, and give your work a good boil for 
 twenty minutes. Get up to cool, rinse well in two cold 
 waters, fold up, and put them on the peg to drain. 
 When drained enough, hang them up in the drying- 
 room to dry, and when dry, they are ready for finishing. 
 
 To Dye Drab in Ladies' Merino Dresses, and Bed and 
 Window Curtains of Damask, Moreen, and other Woollen 
 Manufactured Fabrics. 
 
 Drabs, stone colors, fawns, and vaunterins require no 
 previous preparation to take the dye. These light 
 colors are very trying to a dyer who has a pride in his 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 147 
 
 work. There are a number of colors, and I will begin 
 with a light drab first. 
 
 Take your work and clean it carefully, and put it on 
 the peg to drain, and for forty yards of woollen damask 
 furniture put in your copper one pound of sumach, two 
 ounces of cudbear, a table-spoonful of your scalded 
 Saxon blue, and half a pint of oil of vitriol ; have two 
 very clean sticks on your copper ready for use. Take a 
 clean white saucer, and take nearly the full of it of the 
 now drab liquor out of your copper, and compare it with 
 your pattern, and you must add dye-stuff to your liquor 
 in the copper until you get it to the color of the drab 
 you want to dye. You can judge that by taking a 
 saucer nearly full of the liquor out every time you put 
 fresh drugs in. You must mind your saucer is nearly 
 full, or you will not get the right shade ; and that your 
 copper is boiling all the time you are making your drab 
 liquor. Now you have what drugs you want in your 
 copper, open out your damasks, and put them in the 
 copper, and boil them well for one hour, handling them 
 well over the sticks all the time ; when your time is ex- 
 pired, fill up your copper with clean cold water, and 
 take your work out of the copper, and as you take it 
 out, hang it on the tenter-hooks in the dye-house to cool, 
 and tell your man to rinse them well, and hang them up 
 in the drying-room, either warm or cold will do. Drabs 
 are very strong colors ; light drabs are very good wear, 
 for in the wearing they always get darker, whether in 
 dresses or in furniture. 
 
 The drab damask is done now and hung up. The 
 same copper will dye fifty yards of moreen with an ad- 
 dition of drugs for these fifty yards. Put in half a 
 pound of sumach, two ounces of cudbear, one table- 
 spoonful of your scalded blue, and half a pint of oil of 
 vitriol. Stir these well, and all the time keep your cop- 
 per boiling. Take your white saucer again, and test 
 your liquor with your pattern ; if your liquor is to the 
 color of your pattern, begin and dye your moreens; if not 
 the color, put more drugs till it is. Open out your work, 
 
148 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 and put it in the copper, and boil it well for an hour, 
 and keep handling it well all the time with the sticks; 
 never leave your work for a minute, or let it go off the 
 boil. Now your time is up, fill your copper with clean 
 water, and hang up your moreens on the hooks to cool, 
 and tell your man to rinse and hang them up, and they 
 are ready for finishing. 
 
 The dyer can do a number of drabs in this copper be- 
 fore he has done with it; he must mind not to use any 
 more sumach, but its place may be taken by either 
 boiled fustic or boiled ebony liquor. As sumach is a 
 very bad dye-stuff for animal substances, I get out of 
 using it when I can, preferring fustic and ebony. For 
 drabs you must not put bowlsful of it in your copper at 
 a time, the saucer you have for trying the liquor is quite 
 big enough. Just to give an idea how to use these dye- 
 stuffs, I will charge the copper for fifty yards of moreen 
 or damask for a regular drab, not too dark nor too light, 
 but between both. Put in four ounces of cudbear, four 
 saucersful of ground ebony, half a teacupful of scalded 
 Saxon blue, and half a pint of oil of vitriol; put the work 
 into the copper, boil it well for an hour, then take it out, 
 rinse, and hang it up, and it is done. Thus the ladies' 
 merino dresses will follow in this copper after dyeing 
 the damasks and moreens. Supposing there are four 
 ladies' dresses for stone drab : put in this copper four 
 ounces of cudbear and a quarter of a pint of scalded Saxon 
 blue, and the same quantity of oil of vitriol. Get your 
 copper on to a boil, and put your work into the copper, 
 and boil it well for forty minutes. Now fill your copper^ 
 and take your four dresses out, one after the other, and 
 hang them on the tenters to cool; compare them with 
 your stone-color pattern, and you will find you want as 
 much more blue as you gave them at first; put them in 
 the copper again, and boil them well for forty minutes. 
 Damp your fire, fill up the copper with clean cold water, 
 take out your dresses, one by one, hang them on the 
 tenters in the dye-house to cool, throw away your liquor, 
 scour out your copper, fill it up with clean cold water, 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 149 
 
 get it on to a boil, and, while it is coming on, rinse your 
 stone-color merinos that you have just dyed in three 
 clean cold waters, hang them up to dry in a warm or 
 cold drying-room, and, when dry, they are ready for 
 finishing. 
 
 To Dye Ladies' Dresses Pale Blue, French Merino, Drab, 
 and a Light Drab, and a Merino Shawl Middle to Re- 
 dye. 
 
 Clean the merino dresses and the shawl in clean hot 
 soap liquor, so as to take the blue off even in the clean- 
 ing. Take out of a hot thin soap liquor, and spirit it in 
 clean cold water out of the soap, and give it one cold 
 water out of the spirit, fold it, and put it to drain. 
 Clean out a copper that will hold nearly six pails of 
 water, get it on to a boil, and put into the copper half 
 a pound of sumach, one ounce of cudbear, a teaspoonful 
 of scalded chemical blue, and half a small teacupful of 
 oil of vitriol ; have the copper boiling and put in the 
 merino dress and the shawl, boil them well in this for 
 an hour, handling them well over your clean stick all 
 the time. When your hour is up, take the dress and 
 the shawl out of the copper, and cool them at the same 
 time. Now rinse them in two clean cold waters, and 
 hang them up to dry, and when dry, damp, brush, and 
 press them. 
 
 Directions to Dye Two Ladies'* Merino Dresses Fawn-color. 
 
 These dresses are now a light drab. Clean them well 
 and put them to drain. Clean out a copper that will 
 hold four pails of water, make it boil, and put into it 
 four pounds of fustic, two ounces of cudbear, and half 
 a teaspoonful of scalded blue, and a tablespoonful of oil 
 of vitriol. Put your merino in, and boil it well for an 
 hour, handling it with a stick all the time. When your 
 time is up, get it up to cool, and put in a little more 
 sour, and a teaspoonful of blue in this copper, and put 
 in the other dress, and boil it for an hour. Get it up 
 
150 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 to cool, and rinse both dresses in a couple of waters, and 
 hang them np to dry, and finish. 
 
 To Dye fifty yards of Drab, Moreen, and fifty yards of 
 Worsted Damask Fawn-Color. 
 
 As I intend to dye drab moreens fawn first, I will let 
 them go first in the cleaning. They must be cleaned, 
 spirited, and rinsed in one clean water, folded up, and 
 put to drain. 
 
 Clean out the big copper, and get it on to a boil ; put 
 in your copper half a pail of ebony, four ounces of cud- 
 bear, and half a pint of oil of vitriol, and a tablespoon- 
 ful of scalded blue. Boil your drugs for five minutes, 
 and open your copper. Now put your moreens in, and tell 
 your man to make the copper boil well for a good hour, 
 and then get them up to cool on the tenter-hooks in the 
 dye-house, and tell your man to rinse them, and hang 
 them up to dry, and when dry they are ready for finish- 
 ing. 
 
 The next lot is the fifty yards of worsted damask. 
 No addition of drugs is requisite for these, except a 
 teacupful of oil of vitriol. Boil well in this for one 
 hour, get them up, rinse them, and, when dried, they 
 are ready for finishing. 
 
 To Clean and Dye two Ladies' Merino Dresses Sage 
 Green and Olive — the Sage is any Light Color, and 
 the Olive is now a Black. 
 
 Clean, spirit, and rinse the two dresses, and put them 
 to drain. Clean out a small copper that will hold four 
 or five pails of water, and when it boils put in the cop- 
 per two ounces of cudbear, eight ounces of sumach, one 
 pound of ground fustic, a tablespoonful of scalded blue, 
 and eight ounces of white argol, and before you put 
 these drugs in your copper, make it taste with common 
 sour, then put in all your drugs, and make them boil 
 well for five minutes, well stirring them with the clean 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 151 
 
 stick you intend to use in dyeing your dress all the time. 
 Now open out your dress, and handle it well in your 
 copper for one hour, boiling it well all the time, and never 
 leaving it until you get it on the tenter-hooks to cool 
 out of your copper, and we will presume it is on the 
 tenter-hooks cooling out of your way. The black 
 merino for olive is next to follow in your copper; for 
 this black merino dress you will put in your copper a 
 good half teacupful of oil of vitriol, stir it well, open 
 out your merino, and handle it well over your stick all 
 the time ; look to your fire, for your copper must boil 
 well. Your time is up now, get it on your hooks to cool, 
 and if it is an olive that pleases you, it is done, but if 
 not what you want, put in this copper one pound of 
 ebony, one pound of turmeric, eight ounces of argol, and 
 a tablespoonful of scalded blue, and boil the merino in 
 this for an hour, and the black French merino will be 
 dyed a very pretty olive. Now you have done with this 
 copper, tell your man to throw its contents away, and fill 
 it up with clean water, and while the man is doing this, 
 give your merinos three separate rinsing waters, and 
 hang them up to dry, and they are ready for finishing. 
 
 To Dye a Lady's Black Merino Dress Fawn-color. 
 
 Clean this dress in three good hot soap liquors, with 
 soda in each liquor, spirit directly, out of soap, with one 
 cold water after ; clean out a copper that will hold about 
 five pails of water, make it boil, and put a teacupful of 
 oil of vitriol in it, stir it well with a clean stick, and 
 handle the merino in it for twenty minutes, or half an 
 hour; it must be well handled, and not left for a mo- 
 ment. The success of the color will depend on the 
 handling. When the half hour has expired, get your 
 merino out of the copper, and rinse it in one clean 
 water ; fold it up, and put it on a peg to drain. Throw 
 away the liquor that is in the copper, and fill it up with 
 clean water ; make it boil, and put into it one pound of 
 argol, one pound of ground fustic, two ounces of cud- 
 
152 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 bear, and eight ounces of turmeric ; boil your merino 
 again half an hour in this, take it up, and give it half 
 a teacupful of vitriol. Stir it well, and put the merino 
 back in the copper, and handle it well for half an hour, 
 and take it out of the copper, cool it, and rinse it in 
 three separate cold waters ; put it to drain and hang it 
 up to dry, and when dry you will see it has been changed 
 by this simple and not expensive process from a black 
 to a permanent and good fawn-color that will stand 
 cleaning, when dirty, in good hot soap liquors, and the 
 color will improve by the soap. 
 
 To Dye Two Black French Merino Dresses Grass Green 
 
 and Myrtle Green. 
 
 Clean, spirit, and rinse your two merinos, and boil 
 them with a teacupful of vitriol each, one after the 
 other ; each is to have one hour in the discharging cop- 
 per ; what I mean is, they are to be boiled separately, 
 the grass green first, the myrtle green last. When they 
 have had an hour in the copper for each dress, rinse 
 them in one clean cold water, and throw away the liquor 
 in the copper; rinse it out, and get it on with clean 
 water. Now put in the copper for the merino that is 
 for grass-green four pounds of ground ebony, half a pint 
 of scalded Saxon blue, and a tablespoonful of oil of 
 vitriol. Put your merino in this liquor and boil it well 
 for half an hour, and when the time has expired, take it 
 up and see if it will be blue enough for your grass-green 
 pattern; if not, give it half as much blue as you gave 
 it at first, and give it another boil for a good half hour, 
 and get it up, and hang it to cool out of your way. 
 Proceed with dyeing the black merino for myrtle green 
 in this copper. Put in one pound of turmeric, and one 
 pint of your scalded blue — nothing else. Boil your 
 merino well for one hour, take it out and cool it, and 
 compare it with your myrtle green pattern ; and if it 
 agrees, throw the liquor away, and fill it up with clean 
 water. Now rinse these two merinos well with three 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 153 
 
 clean waters, the grass-green first, then the myrtle. Put 
 them on the peg to drain, and when drained, hang up to 
 dry, and when dry these two blacks will be pretty greens, 
 and ready for finishing. 
 
 To Dye Two Black French Merino Ladies' Dresses, one 
 Claret and one Rappee. 
 
 Get a copper that will hold four or five pails of water 
 to a boil, and put into it a teacupful of oil of vitriol; 
 open out your black merino for claret, and boil it well 
 in this for half an hour; take it and cool it, rinse in two 
 clean waters, and put it to drain. Make no addition to 
 this copper, but boil your black merino for rappee well 
 in it for forty minutes ; then take it up to cool, rinse in 
 two cold waters, and put both these merinos out of your 
 way to drain on a peg. Now throw away the liquor in 
 your copper, fill it up with clean water, and make it 
 boil ; then put into it one pound of alum, and half a 
 pint of muriate of tin, open out the merino for claret, 
 and boil it well in this for half an hour ; get it up and 
 hang it out of your way to cool. Then boil the merino 
 for rappee in the same liquor for forty minutes, making 
 no addition of drugs for it. When your time is up, 
 take your merino and hang it to cool on the tenter-hooks. 
 Throw away the liquor in the copper, scour it well out, 
 and fill it up with clean water. While it is coming to a 
 boil, well rinse your two merinos in two clean cold 
 waters, put them on a peg to drain, and they are ready 
 for dyeing. Now put two pounds of the best cudbear 
 in your copper, and take the merino for claret first and 
 boil it well in it for half an hour; then take it up, hang 
 it out of your way on the hooks to cool, and it is dyed. 
 Make no addition to your copper of any drugs, but put 
 the merino that is for rappee in it, and boil it well for a 
 quarter of an hour ; then get it up, and melt half a 
 pound of copperas in four pails of water, and handle it 
 in this for twenty minutes ; get it up and rinse it in two 
 waters, and put it to drain. Make your copper boil, put 
 
154 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 the last merino back into it, and boil it well for half an 
 hour. Then take it out of the copper, and the two 
 dresses are dyed. Rinse the two dresses well in two 
 clean cold waters, the claret merino first, and the rappee 
 next ; fold and hang up to dry, and they are done. 
 
 Remarks. — The reader will see that the rappee me- 
 rino followed the claret merino all through the processes 
 they went, from the black to make them claret and rap- 
 pee, without helping the copper with any drugs for 
 the rappee. There was no necessity for it, the claret 
 merino having left plenty of drugs in the copper. After 
 I had prepared my merinos in the alum and spirits, I 
 could have dyed them with peachwood, but I have dyed 
 them the cheapest, best, and simplest way — although 
 cudbear, with which I have dyed them, is eighteenpence 
 a pound, and peachwood threepence a pound. But the 
 difference is, that one pound nor two pounds of peach- 
 wood will go as far as one pound of cudbear ; besides, the 
 cudbear nourishes the wool and makes it soft, and a 
 beautiful transparent color. 
 
 To Dye fifty yards of Green Worsted Thread and White 
 Cotton Thread Damask and one Table Cover of the 
 same Material, Amber. 
 
 Clean these materials in very hot soap liquors, as hot 
 as the hand will bear, with some soda in each. They will 
 take three or four liquors. You must give them a good 
 deal of time, so that every bit of the blue may be off 
 before you attempt to dye them. When all the blue is 
 off they will be a bufSsh yellow, and when they come to 
 that color in the cleaning, get them up and give them a 
 clean thin soap liquor nice and hot, .and plenty of time 
 in it, say twenty minutes ; then fold them up, and put 
 them to drain on the pegs. 
 
 Put into the large copper, when it is scalding hot, two 
 pounds of turmeric and half a pound of tartaric acid. 
 Have two clean sticks on the side of the copper ready 
 for use, and open out the work and handle it well in the 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 155 
 
 copper for half an hour, not leaving it for a moment 
 during that time. You must mind not to rinse it out 
 of the soap, and you must see that the soap is fat in 
 it before you put it in the turmeric and acid copper. 
 Let there be no mistake about this, and if the copper is 
 more than scalding hot the work will be spoiled. When 
 the half hour is up take all the fire from under the cop- 
 per, shut the door, and leave the work in the copper 
 while you make up two clean cold rinsing waters. This 
 done throw them up on a clean puncher over the cop- 
 per, and give them a small half teacup ful of vitriol in 
 the liquor they have just been taken out of. Stir the 
 liquor up well with your stick, and put the work in the 
 copper again, and handle it well for ten minutes. Get 
 them up and rinse them in these three cold waters, fold 
 them up, put them to drain, and hang them up in a 
 warm room to dry. When dry take them down, shake 
 them well, and send them to the pressers, who finish 
 them. 
 
 Remark. — This is the best way of doing this work, 
 as well as the cheapest. 
 
 Another Method. 
 
 Clean as above ; be sure to take all the blue off in 
 hot, clean soap liquors, and have a tub of clean cold 
 water, and put half a pint of oil of vitriol in it — stir it 
 well, and take your work out of the last soap liquor and 
 handle well in this spirit water, then take it up and give 
 it two clean cold waters — put it on the pegs to drain, and 
 put seven pounds of quercitron bark into a small copper 
 and boil it well for half an hour, and have the large cop- 
 per boiling hot ready for bark to be turned over into it 
 through a sieve. Put a quart of bark spirit into the 
 copper, and open out the work ; put into the copper, 
 handle it with a stick, and boil it well for forty minutes, 
 when it is done. Draw the copper fire, take the work 
 out of the copper, rinse it, dry it, and it is done, when 
 callendered or pressed. 
 
156 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 Another Method of Dyei7ig the above Amber. 
 
 When this work is cleaned, spirited, and rinsed in 
 clean cold waters out of the spirits, and put on a peg to 
 drain; put into your large copper three pounds of ground 
 alum, and one quart of muriate of tin, and boil your 
 work in it for forty minutes, and then take them up, 
 ^and hang them to cool, and when cold, rinse, and put 
 them on the pegs to drain. Now to dye them, and that 
 is another question. Which way shall I proceed now 
 that they are ready to suck up any amount of dye-stuff? 
 Shall it be with young or old fustic, French berries, 
 weld, or quercitron bark 1 Well, let us take old fustic 
 for choice, and put in for the above green damask (after 
 discharging the blue out of it, and preparing it to take the 
 pure dye-stuff), in clean boiling water, only seven pounds 
 of the best old fustic chips, and boil it in this for forty 
 minutes, and rinse it and get it up in the usual way of 
 rinsing, drying, and finishing. 
 
 Remarks. — The young fustic does not dye prepared 
 ambers or green so well as old fustic ; the bark does very 
 well, but it takes a great deal of rinsing, or the work 
 will be blind. Turmeric, after all is said and done, is 
 the cheapest and best, for it is only to take out of the 
 soap, arid put it in the turmeric copper, and give it forty 
 minutes in it, without boiling, and it is ready to take up 
 out of the copper, ready dyed, and a much brighter color 
 than the others that were so much trouble and expense 
 in preparing to take the dye-stuff. 
 
 To Dye Green Woollen and Cotton Damask Table Covers, 
 fifty yards of Bed and Window Furniture, Fawn or 
 Vaunterine. 
 
 To dye these goods fawn color, the blue must be 
 cleaned off first. You will then put in the large copper 
 one pound of sumach, four ounces of cudbear, and a half 
 teacupful of scalded Saxon blue, and one pound of tar- 
 taric acid. Put your damask and table cover into this 
 
• WOOLLEN DYEING. 157 
 
 copper directly, out of the soap liquor, as you did the 
 other lots of amber, and boil it well for one hour, and it 
 is dyed a very nice fawn color. This way is the easiest 
 and best. 
 
 In this copper, without throwing away the liquor, you 
 will dye the damask furniture and table cover, vaunterine. 
 
 Put in the copper half a pail of ground ebony, two 
 pounds of turmeric, and one pound of tartaric acid ; 
 boil these for five minutes, and open out the work, and 
 put it in the copper, and boil it well for half an hour. 
 Now get it up out of the copper, and put it in eight 
 ounces of cudbear. Put your work back in the copper, 
 and boil it well in it. and get it up to cool; rinse it in 
 three clean cold waters, fold it up, and hang up in a 
 cold or hot room to dry, and when dry, shake it well, 
 and finish it, and it is done when it is well hot pressed 
 or friction-callendered. 
 
 Remarks. — The reason of putting a green worsted and 
 cotton table cover with this green damask, in all these 
 four colors, is to let the dyer see that he can dye a little 
 thing like this table cover in with a job like the damask, 
 and can be done with the damask at little or no expense 
 to him. These cotton and woollen damasks must have 
 a water starch after the rinsing, they are very soft with- 
 out it, it puts a gloss and makes a clean finish on them. 
 
 To Dye Two Ladies' French Merino- Dresses that are now 
 Green, Brown, Olive, and French Brown. 
 
 Put in a copper that will hold four or five pails, half a 
 pailful of walnut rinds, and boil your merino in this 
 directly it comes out of the soap as directed above, 
 for one hour, and it is dyed olive. Add to this copper 
 two pounds of redwood, and boil well for one hour, 
 handling well all the time ; now get it up to cool, and 
 rinse both well, and hang it up to dry. These colors are 
 so fast, that soap, soda, or spirits will darken them ; the 
 more you try to discharge these colors, the further you 
 are off accomplishing it. This work must be very well 
 
158 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 rinsed with four or five clean cold waters, and in the last 
 but one they must have about half a teacupful of oil of 
 vitriol, and handle well in it. 
 
 To make the best Grain Spirits for Cochineal, to Dye 
 Moreens, Damasks, and Ladies' Merinos, Scarlet. 
 
 Put twelve pounds of muriatic acid, and four pounds 
 of aquafortis in a stone jar, and to every pound of spirit, 
 put two ounces of grain tin in the jar; the tin must be 
 in particles, and put in about four ounces at a time, until 
 you get all the tin in the spirits ; for once you begin to 
 put the tin in, you must continue feeding it, and not 
 leave off until you have given it all the tin you intend ; 
 you must not leave off while the spirit is working, but 
 keep it on the work until you have done. Most dyers 
 consider the more tin spirits get, the more attraction 
 there will be to the wool, and that it takes a stronger 
 and a better color. Half-grain and half-lac will dye a 
 good crimson on wool with the above spirits. When 
 the spirit is sufficiently killed, put it by in a dry place, 
 with a stopper on the jar, until you want to use it. 
 You can make from one pound to one hundred pounds 
 by this calculation, that is, three of spirits of salts to one 
 of aquafortis, and eight ounces of tin for four pounds of 
 grain spirits. 
 
 Directions to make Spirits of Salts to Dye Pace and Dark 
 Blue, in Ladies' Merinos, and other Woollen Goods. 
 
 Put twelve pounds of muriatic acid in a jar, and melt 
 your tin (see page 91), and to every pound of spirits, put 
 in the jar two ounces of grain tin, and one ounce of oil 
 of vitriol. You must put in the tin in the spirits by the 
 ounce, as near as you can guess it. You begin thus : 
 one ounce of tin in your spirits, then one ounce of oil of 
 vitriol directly after it ; you must keep away from the jar 
 while you are putting in the vitriol. When this first lot 
 is nearly worked down, begin again, and so you will go 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 159 
 
 on for twelve times, and in a day or two it will be fit for 
 use. 
 
 To Dye Ladies' Merino Dresses and other Woollen Goods 
 Puce, Violet, and Dark Blue. 
 
 The ladies' merino dresses and other woollen goods, in- 
 tended for this color, must be white, pale blue, or puce; 
 no other colors will dye this color well. Dark blue will 
 not. Indigo vat and orchil is the best for puces and 
 violets. But I am now going to dye these colors with 
 muriate of tin and logwood, at a tithe of the expense, 
 and it is only dyers that can tell one from the other. To 
 make this plan, let some of my readers, that have a blue 
 merino, and would like it a puce color, practise on the 
 dress. Clean the dress in good strong soap liquors, with 
 a little soda in each liquor, and spirit it directly out of 
 the soap ; give it one clean water. Clean out a small 
 copper, that will hold four or five pails of water, get it 
 on to a boil, have a clean stick on the side of the copper, 
 ready for use. Put into the copper one pint of muriate 
 of tin, and boil the merino in this forty minutes, hand- 
 ling it well all the time, now take it up, and cool it on 
 the tenter-hooks (see page 26) ; leave it to cool while you 
 throw away the liquor, fill the copper with clean water, 
 and get it on to a boil. Now rinse the merino dress, and 
 put it to drain, and have a pound of logwood boiled up 
 in four quarts of water by you, and strain all the liquor 
 through a sieve into the copper of clean boiling water, 
 and after it put in a tablespoonful of oil of vitriol, stir 
 it well, and put the merino dress in ; boil it well for forty 
 minutes, and it is dyed a very pretty puce, ready for 
 rinsing, drying, and finishing. 
 
 To Dye a Lady's Merino Dress Violet and another Dark 
 Blue with Muriate of Tin. 
 
 These dresses having been previously cleaned and pre- 
 pared, we proceed as follows : — 
 
 Fill a little copper with clean water, make it boil, and 
 
160 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 put in it half a pound of tartaric acid, half a pint of 
 scalded Saxon blue, and one pint of muriate of tin. Put 
 your merino in this, boil it well for forty minutes, and 
 get it up to cool. While it is cooling, put in the copper 
 the merino for dark blue, with half a pint more of scalded 
 Saxon blue, and half a pint more of the muriate of tin. 
 Put the merino for dark blue into the copper, and boil 
 it well for twenty minutes. Get it up and cool it, and 
 put in the copper a quarter of a pound of copperas ; stir 
 it well, and return the dark blue merino to the copper; 
 boil it for twenty minutes longer, and get it up to cool. 
 Throw away the contents of the copper, scour it out, fill 
 it with clean water, and get it on to a boil directly; and 
 while it is doing so rinse the two merinos — the violet 
 first, the dark blue next — in two clean cold waters. 
 Have two pounds of logwood boiled up in a gallon of 
 water, and strain two quarts of it into the copper, and 
 one tablespoonful of oil of vitriol ; stir it well, handle the 
 violet merino in the copper, and boil it well for forty 
 minutes ; take it out of the copper, and put it out of 
 your way to cool on the tenter-hooks. Strain the re- 
 mainder of the logwood into the copper, put in the 
 merino for dark blue, and boil it well for forty minutes ; 
 then take it out, hang up to cool, and both are dyed in 
 one copper. The dark blue was dyed with what the 
 violet left. There was a difference in the preparation. 
 The dark blue had half a pound of copperas — the violet 
 had none. These two merinos must be rinsed in three 
 clean cold waters, with common sour in each, and sheeted 
 up dry in the shawl sheets. They are a good strong * 
 color, but very hard to dry safely, on account of the blue 
 that was necessarily put in them in the preparation. 
 
 To make Scarlet Spirits for Woollen Goods, the Italian 
 Way, for Cochineal, Kermes, and Madder. 
 
 Have a clean stoneware water pitcher, and put in it 
 eight pounds of aquafortis, twelve pounds of water, two 
 pounds of sal ammoniac well pounded, and forty ounces 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 161 
 
 of grain tin in particles. Put in ten ounces of the tin 
 first, and stir it well with a glass rod ; and so go on 
 gently until all the tin is in the spirits. You must not 
 leave it until all the tin is in the spirits. The pitcher 
 must be lightly covered over with a piece of thin flan- 
 nel, to keep as much of the gas in it as possible, and to 
 keep the heat in to assist the spirits to eat up the tin. 
 It must not be in a cold place while it is working; and 
 when it has done working, it must be put into a stone 
 jar, or carboy, with a stopper to prevent the sal ammo- 
 niac escaping. I have given a receipt for making scarlet 
 spirits in quite a different way from this. One is equally 
 as good as the other. Every dyer has his fancy for 
 making grain spirits. Some use saltpetre, others bay 
 salt ; some dyers will cram the spirits with tin, and others 
 do not give it enough. But the medium is the best. 
 
 Remarks. — There is no saving in dyers making their 
 own spirits, especially in England, where there are large 
 manufactories all over the country. If my reader will 
 look over the drysalter's list of prices, he will see it is 
 not worth losing his time. But in the Colonies and 
 America these spirit receipts will be valuable, as almost 
 everywhere abroad there are to be obtained oil of vitriol, 
 spirits of salts, aquafortis, and grain tin in the stores. 
 My instructions, if followed to the letter, will teach any 
 person to make dyers' spirits. 
 
 To make Ammonia and Cochineal Paste, to work in the 
 Grain Copper Crimson Woollens. 
 
 Take one pound of the best ground cochineal and one 
 quart of liquid ammonia, and mix them in their pure 
 state in an earthen pickle jar. Put the cochineal in the 
 jar first, and after it the ammonia. Stir them well until 
 they become as thick as oil. The jar, with the ammo- 
 nia and cochineal in it, is to be put in a pot of water 
 (in the same way as carpenters boil their glue), boiled 
 well for two hours, and never left but stirred all the time. 
 When the two hours are expired they will be amalga- 
 
 11 
 
162 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 * 
 
 mated. The pot is now to be taken off the fire, and the 
 jar put on a board shelf to cool, the ingredients being 
 well stirred occasionally while cooling. The jar is to be 
 well covered while cooling, to prevent the ammonia es- 
 caping; and when it is cold, cork up the jar, put it on 
 a shelf, and the paste is fit for use. 
 
 To Dye fifty yards of Damask, fifty yards of Moreen 
 Furniture, and five French Merinos with the above 
 Paste, a Crimson, with Cochineal and Spirits. 
 
 Get the copper with clean water to a boil, and put in 
 it half a pound of tartar, two pounds of cochineal, two 
 pints of grain spirits, and half a pint of cochineal paste, 
 prepared as above. Dye the five merino dresses. Open 
 them out, and while you take one dress, let your man 
 take another, and handle them well in the copper ; then 
 take the other three in the copper, and handle them 
 well for an hour. Take them up and cool them, and 
 give them to your man to rinse in four separate clean 
 waters. Dye the fifty yards of moreen next. Put in 
 the copper for this lot three-quarters of a pound of 
 cochineal, one pint of grain spirits, and a quarter of a 
 pound of the cochineal paste. Open out the moreens, 
 put them in the copper, and boil them well for one hour. 
 Fill up the copper with clean water. Take out the 
 moreens, put them on the tenter-hooks to cool, and tell 
 your man to rinse them in three clean waters. Now go 
 on with the fifty yards of damask for crimson. Put in 
 the copper for this lot three-quarters of a pound of coch- 
 ineal, and one pint of grain spirits. You are not to 
 give them any paste or tartar. Open out the work, 
 handle it well in the copper, and boil it well for an hour ; 
 then fill up the copper with clean water, and take out 
 the work to cool, and rinse. Hang up all the work in a 
 hot room to dry ; and when dry, it is ready for finishing. 
 The merinos must be damped and brushed before they 
 are sent to be finished, and the moreens and damasks 
 picked — they never look nice without this is done. 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 163 
 
 Remarks. — These crimsons are the brightest and best, 
 as well as the quickest we dye. Very few, if any dyers 
 in London know anything of the paste as yet. All this 
 work must be cleaned and dyed before you begin to dye 
 it ; that is best, it takes less dye-stuff. 
 
 To Dye fifty yards of Damask Crimson another way. 
 
 Clean, spirit, and rinse this work, put on a peg to 
 drain, and clean out the large copper, and make it boil. 
 Put in it one pound of tartar, one pound of cochineal, 
 and a quarter of a pound of cudbear ; boil them well for 
 five minutes, and then put in the copper a pint and a 
 half of grain spirits. Always put the work in the copper 
 directly after the spirits, boil it well for one hour, and it 
 is dyed. Get it up to cool on the hooks, and tell your 
 man to rinse it well in three separate clean cold waters 
 and hang it up. 
 
 Remarks. — I put cudbear in this copper to blue my 
 crimson instead of cochineal paste ; there is a great dif- 
 ference in the two colors. It is quite a common way to 
 dye crimson, but I do not like it. I prefer putting the 
 cudbear in after the cochineal is on the work, for the 
 cudbear takes a hold of the work, and will not let the 
 grain go on as it should. 
 
 To Dye forty yards of Damask Crimson another way. 
 
 Clean out your copper, and when boiling, put in half 
 a pound of tartar, three-quarters of a pound of ground 
 cochineal, and one pint of grain spirits ; open out the 
 work, and put it in the copper, and make it boil well for 
 one hour ; take it up, and rinse it in three clean waters, 
 and put it on the horse to drain. Empty the copper, 
 and fill it up with clean water ; make it boil directly, 
 and put in it a quarter of a pound of cudbear; make the 
 cudbear boil for five minutes, well stirring it all the 
 time. Open the copper door, and put the work in the 
 copper, and handle it well with a stick all the time, for 
 
164 loye's dyer and scourer. 
 
 half an hour ; the copper must not boil hard during that 
 time. Now fill up the copper with clean cold water, 
 and get your work up out of it on the hooks to cool, and 
 tell your man to rinse and hang up to dry ; and when 
 dry it is ready for dressing. 
 
 Remarks. — This is a very good way to dye crimson, 
 but there are two coppers wanted, and that makes it 
 come expensive. To remedy that I have worked the 
 cudbear and cochineal together, but the spirits and the 
 tartar, as well as the boiling, injure the cudbear, and to 
 have the cudbear in its purity, I have given it a copper 
 by itself ; but that is an expensive way of doing it, for four 
 ounces of cochineal paste, worked in the copper with 
 the cochineal and spirits, would have made it a splendid 
 crimson. 
 
 To Dye twenty yards of Green Moreen, ten yards of Green 
 Damask, ten yards of Green Worsted and Cotton 
 Damask, and one Green Worsted and Cotton Table 
 Cover in one Copper, Crimson. 
 
 Take all this work into the dye-house, and clean it in 
 good hot soap and soda liquors, give them time and 
 every bit of blue will come off, and leave them a cane 
 color (some of my customers like this cane color, and if 
 my instructions are such, I dry them out of a thin liquor, 
 and have them pressed and sent home ; and very well 
 they look too). I now give them a good hot thin soap 
 liquor and fold them up, and make up a cold water and 
 strong spirit for them ; put them in it, and handle' 
 them well for ten minutes ; then get up, and give two 
 clean waters, fold up and put them on the pegs to drain, 
 and they are ready for dyeing. 
 
 Put into your large copper, one pound of crude tartar, 
 one pound of cochineal, half a pound of cochineal paste, 
 and a pint and a half of grain spirits. Stir these well 
 with your stick, and call your man to give you a hand 
 with the work — you give him the moreens, and you take 
 the damasks. Now put all in, one after the other, and 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 165 
 
 handle them well for an hour ; when the time is up, fill 
 up the copper with clean water, and take them out of 
 the copper, cool, rinse, and hang up, and when dry take 
 down, well shake, and send them to be finished. 
 
 Remarks. — When I mention any particular time, I 
 mean it, and I hope that any person following my instruc- 
 tions to dye a copper of work, will particularly attend to 
 the weight, measurement, and time I here lay down ; if 
 they do not do that, it is their way of dyeing the work, 
 not mine. 
 
 To Clean and Re-dye four Crimson Broad Cloth Curtains. 
 
 These four crimson curtains were very fine broad cloth, 
 and a grain crimson, four yards long and one and three- 
 quarters wide, seven yards in each curtain, in all twenty- 
 eight yards. I had cut down and melted five pounds of 
 the best mottled soap in five pails of scalding water and 
 two pounds of pearlash ; I made up three separate hot 
 clean soap liquors, of six pails each, in three separate 
 tubs, and divided the soap and the ash equally in three 
 tubs, leaving enough soap for a thin soap liquor as a 
 finishing. I now began cleaning, and took one curtain 
 at a time, and worked and gently punched it through 
 one soap liquor, wrung it out of this, put it in the 
 same manner through the next two, and in another tub 
 gave it a warm thin soap liquor ; out of this I gave it a 
 teacupful of oil of vitriol, well mixed in twenty pails of 
 cold water in a clean vessel, handled it well in this for 
 ten minutes, took it up, put % it to drain, and gave it a 
 clean cold water; handled it well in this, folded it up 
 smooth, drained it, and dried it in a hot room, and this 
 one curtain was done as far as cleaning went. I cleaned 
 the other three curtains in exactly the same manner and 
 would not alter it if there was fifty. 
 
 When these four curtains were dry I had a copper 
 that would hold twenty pails of water, well cleaned and 
 got on to a boil, and put into it one pound of crude tartar, 
 then one pound of ground cochineal (that is allowing a 
 
166 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 quarter of a pound for each curtain), and one pint of 
 grain spirits, I put in the four curtains at once, with 
 help, into the copper and boiled them well for two hours, 
 well handling them all the time, then got them up, 
 cooled them, rinsed them in four clean waters, dried 
 them, and when dry brushed them well, sent them to the 
 hot pressers to finish, and they are, when pressed, ready 
 to re-make and re-hang in their former place, and very 
 few people would ever think they were dyed. 
 
 Remarks. — These four broad cloth curtains could be 
 cleaned and dyed at once, but they would take a pound 
 and a half of cochineal and would not be so good a color. 
 I give time, weight, and measure in describing how these 
 four curtains were done, and one or a hundred could be 
 done on the same principle. If these four curtains were 
 a good color and fit to go as cleaned only, I would clean 
 them one by one in blood warm liquor spirit, out of thin 
 soap-liquor, rinse in clean cold water and dry directly in 
 a warm room, then well brush and have them hot pressed 
 for a finish, and they are done. 
 
 Directions to Clean and Re-dye four Green Broad Cloth 
 
 Window Curtains. 
 
 These four green cloth curtains were exactly the same 
 in. material and measurement as the above crimson ones. 
 Clean and spirit them exactly in the same manner as 
 the crimson cloth curtains, but do not dry them, then 
 put them on the pegs to drain, and have a copper, con- 
 taining twenty pails of boiling water, and put one pail 
 of fustic chips into it, boil it well for ten minutes. Open 
 the copper door and throw a handful of alum in it, scald 
 up half a pint of Saxon blue in two quarts of water, put 
 it to settle, and then put half of it in the copper and a 
 pound of tartar. Get all the cloth in the copper at once , 
 and boil it well in this for forty minutes, get it up and 
 put in nearly all the blue that is left in the jar, and half 
 a teacupful of oil of vitriol, and boil it well in this for 
 forty minutes. Now fill the copper with clean cold 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 167 
 
 water, damp the fire, take up the cloth to cool, and rinse 
 in four clean cold waters, hang up to dry, and then well 
 shake, brush, and grain down the face. Have it hot 
 pressed and it is ready to make up again. 
 
 Kermes, a Worm used for Dyeing Scarlet on Wool, before 
 Cochineal was brought from America. 
 
 The kermes is a kind of violet or brilliant brown gall, 
 proceeding from the female insect, which fixes itself, and 
 dies upon the leaves of the green oak of Provence, or of 
 Italy. This female insect in dying and attaching itself 
 assumes the form of a cap ; this insect is collected in the 
 nights of May and June. Kermes have all the proper- 
 ties of the animal matters — its coloring matter, which 
 forms its principal character, is soluble in water, and 
 leaves a highly colored liquor. When kermes are used 
 in dyeing, alum and tartar must be the mordant; the 
 color it produces on wool has less lustre than cochineal, 
 but it has more solidity, and we may remove spots of 
 grease without altering the dye of the cloth. The blood 
 red of the ancient tapestry proceeds from it. On account 
 of the unalterability of this color, it is to be regretted 
 that it is not more in use than it is. — ' Fourcroy's Chem- 
 istry,' vol. x. page 501. 
 
 There was extracted from coccus, now known under 
 the name of kermes, a dye which was hardly less esteemed 
 than purple, and which was sometimes associated with 
 it. As we already mentioned, Pliny relates that it was 
 employed for the robes of emperors ; the name of scarlet 
 was usually given to it, but it was sometimes confounded 
 with purple. Now we understand the management of 
 the kermes, in probably a more advantageous manner 
 than the ancients did, because we possess a pure alum, 
 which disposes the stuff to receive a finer and more per- 
 manent color, and yet our dyers have been obliged to 
 renounce its use almost entirely, notwithstanding the 
 solidity of its color, because it cannot bear a comparison 
 
168 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 with the colors now produced from cochineal. — From 
 4 Dr. Ure's Elements of the Art of Dyeing,' vol. i. pages 
 14 and 18. 
 
 To Dye fifty yards of Drab Worsted Damask Scarlet, with 
 Kermes, also ten yards of Worsted Fringe. 
 
 Clean your work well in clean soap liquors, with a 
 little soda or ash in each liquor; fold up out of a thin, 
 hot, soap liquor; spirit, and rinse out of spirit, fold up 
 your work and put it to drain on the pegs. Put in the 
 large copper, four pounds of the best ground alum, and 
 one pound of crude tartar; open out your work, put it 
 in the copper, and boil it well for one hour ; when the 
 time is up, fill up the copper with clean water, open the 
 copper door, take it out of the copper, and cool it well 
 by hanging it on the tenter-hooks. While you empty 
 the copper, and fill it with clean water, and when it is 
 coming on to a boil, take down your work and rinse it 
 in one clean water ; fold it up, and put it on the pegs, 
 and it is ready for dyeing. Put in the copper five 
 pounds of ground kermes, and boil it well for ten minutes, 
 keep stirring the copper well all the time. Now open 
 out the work ready for the copper, and put in the copper 
 with the kermes, one pint of scarlet spirits (see page 
 161); now put in the work directly, and boil well for an 
 hour, and when the time is up, fill up the copper with 
 clean water, and take the work out, hang it up to cool, 
 and rinse it in three clean waters, and put it on the pegs 
 to drain, and hang up in a hot stove room to dry, and 
 when dried, it is ready for finishing. 
 
 Remarks. — Five pounds of kermes appears a large lot 
 of dye-stuff' to give this work, you will say — it will 
 never pay — but it will not do with less; a pound of 
 kermes for a pound of woollen goods is the complement, 
 and in the mordant it is a pound of alum for every five 
 pounds of wool, and half a pound of tartar. The mor- 
 dant must be in a separate copper, not with the kermes. 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 169 
 
 To Dye forty yards of Amber Moreen and three Buff, 
 White, or Amber, Color French Merino Ladies' Dresses 
 Scarlet. 
 
 Have these articles well cleaned in strong soap, 
 rinsed, and spirited, and put on a peg to drain out of 
 the way. Have the large copper well scoured out, and 
 put in it one pound of crude tartar, half a pound of the 
 best ground cochineal, and a quart of the solution of 
 tin. Put the two French merinos in this, boil them 
 well for forty minutes, get them up and hang them to 
 cool out of your way in the dye-house. Handle in the 
 moreen, and boil it well in this copper for half an hour, 
 well handling it all the time. The half hour being ex- 
 pired, take it up and hang it on the hooks to cool. 
 Throw away the liquor in the copper, scour it out, fill 
 it with clean water, and get it on to a boil directly. 
 While the copper is boiling rinse your scarlets, taking 
 the merinos first, fold up out of the waters, put them on 
 the pegs to drain, and begin to give them another copper 
 as they are only half dyed. You can see by the quantity 
 of cochineal I gave them at first that it was not enough 
 for the work, and I gave them more spirits than if I in- 
 tended them to be done in one copper. This first cop- 
 per cleans them from the old color, and the soap and 
 second copper finish them clean and clear. 
 
 The second copper being ready, throw in a quart of 
 bran, make it boil for five minutes, and skim it; open 
 the copper door, and put in half a pound of tartar, one 
 pound of best ground cochineal, and one pint of grain 
 spirits. Put in the three merinos first, handle them well 
 for forty minutes, and they are done. Now put in the 
 copper, for the moreen, one pound of cochineal, and one 
 pint of grain spirits ; boil them well in this forty min- 
 utes, and they are done, ready for rinsing. They must 
 be rinsed well in three clean waters, folded, drained, and 
 hung up to dry in a warm room. 
 
 Remarks. — This is rather an expensive way of dyeing 
 this work scarlet. However, scarlet is an expensive 
 
170 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 color. This way of dyeing it is certain, and not much 
 more expense than the other. It is the time it requires 
 that makes it expensive. 
 
 Lac, a Worm used for dyeing Scarlets in Wool, a Substitute 
 
 for Cochineal. 
 
 " What is improperly called gum lac in commerce is 
 a resin of a reddish-brown color, semi-transparent, dry, 
 and brittle, deposited on branches round which it forms 
 a hive or heap of cells, which contain the eggs of a spe- 
 cies of insect. It was formerly believed to proceed from 
 a species of ant ; it is now known that it is a coccus, 
 whose puncture produces on the young shoot of the ficus 
 Indica a resinous exudation. They distinguish the lac 
 in grains, in sticks, in lumps, and in plates, or shell lac. 
 The two first are in its natural state ; the last is tli.e 
 resin melted and poured into plates. There exists in 
 this lac a coloring matter, which appears to proceed from 
 the insect, to the action of which its discharge is owing, 
 and the young of which are found inclosed in the cells. 
 It was on account of this coloration, and of the cells des- 
 tined to lodge the young, of which this concretion is 
 formed, that Geoffrey compared this resin to wax. It is 
 asserted that this resin is employed in India for dyeing 
 cloth red, and in the Levant for dyeing the leather called 
 Morocco leather. Its great use is in the preparation of 
 sealing wax, of which it forms the base. It enters into 
 the composition of thick varnishes of China and Japan, 
 on which account they are called lacque. It is from the 
 denomination of this resin that the preparation of ani- 
 mal and vegetable colors destined for painting have 
 been called lakes. Lac will yield its color by boiling in 
 clean water." — From ' Fourcroy's Chemistry,' vol. x. 
 page 447. 
 
 Remarks. — It is a singular fact that these four worms 
 — the silkworm, the resin-lac worm, the kermes worm, 
 and the cochineal — have from the beginning of the 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 171 
 
 world found such immense employment for mankind. A 
 merciful and foreseeing Providence called them into ex- 
 istence to afford employment to man.' In the countries 
 where they grow they are a blessing to the poor; for 
 although they do not sow, yet they reap. Perhaps Prov- 
 idence had a meaning in that also, although we are told 
 that those who do not sow ought not to reap. 
 
 To Dye forty yards of Blue Damasks, and forty yards of 
 Light Drab Moreen Bed and Window Curtains Scarlet, 
 with Lac, instead of Cochineal. 
 
 Having all my damask and moreen well cleaned in 
 soap, and all the blue off the blue damask, I have the 
 large copper scoured out, filled with clean water, and 
 got on to a boil directly. I now get a clean pickle jar 
 tjiat will hold four quarts, and put into it three pounds 
 of ground lac dye, or dyer's lac, and three pints of lac 
 spirits, and stir them well with a strong pipe stopper. 
 I then put the jar to swim in the boiling copper, and 
 keep stirring until the vapor prevents me seeing what 
 is in the bottom of the jar, which ought to be in about 
 ten minutes. Taking the jar out of the copper I fill it 
 up with clean water, stirring it well all the time. Now 
 I have four quarts of lac in my jar ready for use, and 
 the copper ready boiling; and I begin to dye one lot, 
 taking the drab moreen first. Having a clean stick, I 
 put one pound of crude tartar in the copper, and stir it 
 well until it is melted ; and then I put in five pints of 
 the prepared lac for the moreens, leaving only three 
 pints to dye the damask. I now open out the moreens 
 and put them into the copper, and boil them well for 
 one hour, handling them all the time. When the hour 
 is up, I fill the copper with clean water, and take the 
 moreens out, hang them to cool, tell my man to rinse 
 them, and they are done. I now put the three pints of 
 prepared lac into the copper, stirring it well, and then 
 put in the damask for scarlet, and boil it well for one 
 
172 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 hour ; fill up my copper, take out the moreen, hang it 
 on the tenters to cool, tell my man to rinse and hang it 
 up to dry, and it is ready for finishing. 
 
 Another Method to Dye the above with Lac. 
 
 Have the large copper well scoured, filled up with 
 clean water, and made to boil. Now put in the copper 
 two pounds of ground Roman alum, and one pound of 
 tartar; take the moreens as you did before, and boil 
 them in this liquor one hour, well stirring in the copper 
 all the time. When the time is up, fill up the copper 
 with clean cold water, and get them up on the tenter- 
 hooks to cool; take the damask lot next, in the copper, 
 and put one pound of ground alum in it first, stir it well, 
 and put the work in, boil it well for an hour, and get 
 up on the tenter-hooks to cool. Give these jobs to yoiy 
 man to rinse, while you throw away the liquor out of 
 the copper ; scour it out, and fill it up with clean cold 
 water; get it on to a boil, put the tartar in- the copper, 
 and the lac after it in the same proportions and time as 
 you did the other lot without this preparation, and they 
 are done. 
 
 To Dye the above two similar lots of Woollens Crimson, 
 with Lac, in two coppers. 
 
 The day before you dye these two woollen jobs with 
 lac, put the same quantity of lac and spirit together in 
 the jar used for the first lot, and stir it well for twenty 
 minutes ; now take it into the kitchen, put it on the hob, 
 but away from the fire. I only want a gentle heat, and 
 to let the gas escape up the chimney ; there is no danger 
 in placing it on the hob. This must be covered over to 
 keep the soot out, a piece of thick brown paper is best 
 to put on it, and it must be well stirred every three or 
 four hours, until you want it; you will dye these two 
 lots next day, scarlet, exactly as you dyed the first two 
 lots, and when they are well rinsed, put half a pint of 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 173 
 
 cudbear in a clean copper of boiling water; open the 
 copper door, and handle them in this liquor for forty 
 minutes, take them up, and they are done. Do exactly 
 the same with the next lot, and they are dyed a good 
 strong crimson, that will clean and not soon fade. 
 
 To Dye one Pink and one Pale Blue French Merino 
 Ladies* Dresses, and two Blue Damask Table Covers 
 Scarlet and Crimson, with Lac Dye. 
 
 These dresses must be first well cleaned in soap, and 
 all the old colors cleaned off, rinsed, and put on the 
 horse to drain. Put two pounds of lac dye in a jar, and 
 three pints of lac spirits, two or three days to digest 
 before you want it; you need not put this on the hob, 
 nor in the copper, for this is a third way, and the best; 
 it must be in a dry place, covered over not too close, and 
 well stirred occasionally. We will begin and dye the 
 scarlets, of course, first, by cleaning out a small copper 
 that will hold four or five pails, and fill it up with clean 
 water, get it on to a boil, and put a quarter of a pound 
 of tartar in it, and open the copper door; now fill up 
 your lac jar with boiling water, well stirring it all the 
 time you are putting the water in ; now you have four 
 quarts of prepared lac dye; put two quarts of it in the 
 copper, then take the French merino that was pink, and 
 handle it well in the copper for forty minutes ; put cold 
 water in the copper, and take the merino up, rinse in 
 three waters, and it is done. Put in a pint of the lac 
 for the table cover for scarlet, and boil the cover for 
 twenty minutes ; rinse in three waters, and it is done. 
 Dye the pale blue merino crimson; give it three pinis 
 of lac, out of the four pints that are left; give it forty 
 minutes good boiling, get it up, and rinse in three 
 waters; give the table cover the last pint of lac, and 
 twenty minutes' boiling, and take it up. Throw away 
 the contents of your copper, scour it out, and fill it up 
 with clean water, make it boil, and put in half a pint of 
 cudbear ; make this boil for five minutes, well stirring 
 
174 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 * 
 
 all the time; now put in your merino, and give it half 
 an hour in this copper; rinse in three waters, and let 
 the table cover follow, with a quarter of a pint of cud- 
 bear ; give it twenty minutes in this copper, and take it 
 up ; now rinse all again, the scarlets first, and hang them 
 up to dry. 
 
 To Dye a similar lot of work, the same colors with Cochi- 
 neal, for a comparison of the time and expense of both 
 Colors. 
 
 The work is all clean and ready on the peg to dye. 
 Clean a copper that will hold four or five pails of water, fill 
 it up with clean water, throw a handful of bran in, and 
 let it boil for five minutes, skim it, and open the copper 
 door ; now put in a quarter of a pound of tartar, and 
 three-quarters of a pound of the best ground cochineal, 
 and half a pint of grain spirits. Put in the pink French 
 merino for scarlet ; boil it for forty minutes ; fill up the 
 copper with clean water, take it out of the copper, hang 
 it on the hooks to cool, and it is done. The table cover 
 is next put in w T ith four ounces of cochineal, and a tea- 
 cupful of green spirits, and boil the cover in this for 
 twenty minutes ; get it up to cool on the tenter-hooks, 
 and it is done. Now put in the same copper, for the 
 crimson merino, three-quarters of a pound of cochineal, 
 and a quarter of a pint of cochineal paste, and half a 
 pint of grain spirits ; handle the pale French blue me- 
 rino in the copper for forty minutes, boiling well all the 
 time ; when the time is up, fill up the copper with clean 
 water, take the work up out of the copper, put it on the 
 hooks to cool, and it is done. The table cover is next ; 
 put in the copper four ounces of cochineal for it, boil it 
 well for twenty minutes, open the copper door and damp 
 the fire, take up the table cover out of the copper, and 
 hang it on the hooks to cool ; they are now all dyed, and 
 ready for rinsing; give them three clean cold waters, 
 fold them up, and hang them in a warm room to dry 
 with dispatch. 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 175 
 
 Remarks. — Some dyers use young fustic in the cop- 
 per, others quercitron bark, and others turmeric ; I always 
 dye my scarlets first, and compare them with a pattern 
 scarlet, and if they are a shade too blue, I turn it with 
 a bowlful of bark liquor, or a little turmeric ; one ounce 
 of turmeric will be enough for one dress ; the table cov- 
 ers I never give any turmeric. I am often ordered to 
 dye the cotton amber; I do that in the same copper when 
 the scarlets are done, by putting four ounces of turmeric, 
 and that is sufficient to dve the cotton amber. I never 
 
 at 
 
 like to dye my scarlets or crimsons with lac; other dyers 
 like it. In the drysalter's list of prices you will see 
 there that lac is the cheapest, but the time it takes 
 makes it dear, besides, one pound of lac will not go so 
 far as eight ounces of cochineal, and when both are dyed 
 and compared, cochineal is much the finest color. I 
 have never seen a lac scarlet so good a color as a scarlet 
 made from cochineal, and I do not think I ever will. 
 
 To Dye twenty yards of Drab Cloth Curtains, and 
 twenty yards of Fawn Drugget Carpet Cover, with 
 Madder, Red, or Mar one. 
 
 This work must be well cleaned in soap, spirited out 
 of the soap, well rinsed, and put to drain. Clean out 
 the large copper, make it boil, and put six pounds of 
 alum, one pound of red argol, and three pints of muriate 
 of tin in the copper. Have your man to help you, and 
 handle in the copper the cloth curtains first. Keep 
 them well handled in this preparation for an hour and a 
 half; the copper boiling all the time, and then take 
 them up, and hang them on the hooks to cool: And for 
 the fawn drugget, put in the copper four pounds more of 
 alum, and you and your man handle this for one hour 
 in the copper ; it must boil well all the time, and not 
 be left for a minute. When the hour has expired, get 
 it up on the hooks, and proceed with well rinsing both 
 lots, the cloth going first into the water ; fold up, and 
 put on the pegs to drain. Clean out the copper you 
 
176 loye's dyer and scourer. 
 
 prepared them in, and fill it with clean water ; put into 
 it four pounds of madder ; and one pailful of peach wood 
 chips ; when it boils, have your man to help you, and 
 handle the cloth well in the copper for one hour; take 
 it out, and hang it to cool on the hooks out of the way. 
 Then put in the copper a pail of peachwood for your 
 drugget ; you and your man handle this well for an hour, 
 the copper boiling well all the time ; now take it up, 
 and hang it on the hooks to cool; tell your man to throw 
 the contents of the copper away, and fill it with clean 
 water, and you go on rinsing well the chips out of these 
 two lots of woollens. They must be well rinsed in cold 
 water, and hung up to dry in a warm room. 
 
 To Dye sixty yards of Fawn Moreen, Orange ; and thirty 
 yards of Light Drab Damask Bed and Window Cur- 
 tains Amber. 
 
 All furniture that is sent from gentlemen's houses of 
 course is not, from smoke and other causes, in a fit state 
 to be dyed without being well cleaned by the dyer be- 
 fore he begins to dye them. We will suppose these 
 have been well cleaned, and we will begin and dye the 
 sixty yards of moreen, orange ; and let it be first all 
 through the operations. 
 
 The big copper is already boiling ; put in three pounds 
 of alum, a quart of grain spirits, and one pound of tar- 
 tar ; open out the moreens, and put them in the copper ; 
 boil them well for an hour, having the man to help you 
 all the time. When the time is up, fill up the copper, 
 and take them out ; hang them on the tenter-hooks to 
 cool. Now, without making any additions to the copper, 
 put the woollen damask for amber in, and boil them for 
 an hour, well handling them all the time. The man all 
 this time is rinsing the first lot, and getting them ready 
 to dye. The time has expired for the work in the cop- 
 per, and it is taken out to cool, and given to the man to 
 rinse. While you throw away the copper and fill it up 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 177 
 
 with clean water, get it on to a boil, and then dye the 
 orange first. 
 
 Put into the cgpper eight ounces of tartar first, then 
 twelve ounces of cochineal, one pound of madder, two 
 pounds of quercitron bark, and a pint of grain spirits ; 
 open out the moreens for orange, and put them in the 
 copper, and boil them well for an hour, having a man to 
 assist, handling them well with a stick all the time. 
 When the time is up, fill the copper with clean water, 
 and take them up ; rinse them in three clean cold waters, 
 fold them up nicely, and put them on a peg to drain, dry, 
 and finish. 
 
 The next lot in this copper, is thirty yards of woollen 
 damask for amber. For this, put into the copper one 
 pound of quercitron bark ; open out the work, and boil 
 it well for half an hour, and see if it gets yellow enough 
 for the pattern. Perhaps it is a little too red ; then put 
 in half a pound more of bark, half a pint of grain 
 spirits, and half a pound of tartar. Now put it back 
 into the copper, and give it another half-hour's good 
 boiling; take it up, and give it to the man to rinse and 
 hang up. Throw away the contents of the copper, scour 
 it out, and fill it up with clean water, and make up the 
 fire for 
 
 Another way to Dye the above. 
 
 Put into the copper one pound of cochineal, one 
 pound of tartar, one pound of madder, four pounds of 
 quercitron bark, and put the sixty yards of moreen for 
 orange in this ; boil it well for an hour and a half, fill 
 up the copper, and put the work on the tenter-hooks to 
 cool ; tell the man to rinse it. Let the thirty yards of 
 worsted damask, for amber, follow in this copper. Now 
 put in four ounces of cochineal, two pounds of bark, and 
 one pint of bark spirits : boil the work well in this for 
 one hour, and get them up, rinse, and hang up to dry. 
 12 
 
178 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 To Clean and Re-dye sixty yards of Tammy Amber. 
 
 Have the big copper scalding, and ^lean the worsted 
 tammy in good hot and strong soap liquor. Now put 
 three pounds of turmeric into the copper, and half a pint 
 of oil of vitriol ; handle it well in this for one hour ; 
 get it up, give it three rinsing waters, with some more 
 sour in each water ; fold it up, and hang it up to dry. 
 This tammy must be glaced on one side — the usual way 
 of finishing it. 
 
 Quercitron Bark, to Dye Yellows and Ambers. 
 
 Quercitron is the bark of a yellow oak of New Eng- 
 land, of which Mr. Bancroft has given an account, and 
 proposed to substitute for weld in dyeing yellow. It is 
 much richer in color than that plant, and one part of it 
 may supply the place of ten of weld ; it is merely boiled 
 in clean water. Its yellow and amber is fixed on wool 
 with alum and muriate of tin, as mordants. The latter 
 gives it a greater degree of lustre. The calico printers 
 prefer this bark to weld, for its strength and economy. 
 It is a very great acquisition in the art of dyeing many 
 colors. — From 'Fourcroy's Chemistry,' vol. viii. page 101. 
 
 To Dye Yellow according to Bancroft's Instructions. 
 
 To dye fifty yards of light-colored worsted damask, 
 well cleaned, spirited, and rinsed, you put into an open- 
 made canvas bag four pounds of quercitron bark and one 
 quart of bark spirit or sulph.-muriate of tin, or muriate of 
 tin — either will do — and one pound of crude tartar. 
 Clean out the big copper, and when it boils, put in the 
 tartar, give it five minutes' boiling, and stir it well with a 
 stick all the time ; put in the bark next, and let it boil 
 well for ten minutes ; then the solution of tin ; and 
 directly after the tin, put in your work, and boil it well 
 in this copper for one hour; keep handling it well with 
 your clean sticks all the time. Now fill up the copper 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 179 
 
 with clean water, open the copper door, and take the 
 work out of the copper, and it is done. This will take 
 plenty of rinsing, and will dry in a hot or cold room. 
 
 Remarks. — This is a very strong, bright color, and 
 will clean in soap with the commonest attention. It is 
 not so strong a color as when it is prepared hot, but for 
 yellows, with bark as well as turmeric, it requires no 
 preparation, their acids being all they want 
 
 To Dye Amber and Yellow with Quercitron, according to 
 Mr. Bancrofts Instructions. 
 
 We dyed fifty yards of worsted damask, according to 
 Mr. Bancroft's directions, yellow : we will now dye fifty 
 yards of moreen yellow, fifty yards of silk and worsted 
 damask amber, and fifty yards of amber worsted and 
 cotton damask, which have been sent in to be cleaned 
 and dipped — just the very thing we wanted, to use up 
 what dye-stuff the other two jobs would leave in the 
 copper. This work having been cleaned well in good 
 soap liquor, spirited and rinsed, put it on three different 
 pegs to drain. 
 
 Clean out the copper well, and fill it up with clean 
 water ; make it boil as soon as possible, and when it 
 boils, put in one pound of crude tartar ; boil this well 
 for five minutes, well stirring it all the time. Now open 
 the copper door, beat your fire well, and then put plenty 
 of damp ashes on it, and put two pailfuls of cold water 
 into the copper. Now put into your copper four pounds 
 of ground Roman alum and one quart of bark spirits. 
 Stir these up well, and open out the silk and worsted 
 damask (have a man to help you), put them into the 
 copper, and handle them in it for an hour. Never leave 
 them. The copper door must be kept open,, and your 
 fire damped down all the time. When the time is up, 
 get the work out of the copper to cool, and when cool 
 tell your man to rinse them; fold, and put them on a 
 peg. The moreens are next. Put these into the same 
 copper that the damasks left, without any addition of 
 
180 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 drugs, and boil them well for an hour : these must be 
 boiled well. If the silk and worsted damasks were 
 boiled, they would be spoiled : a scald is almost too much 
 for them. But these must be well boiled for an hour ; 
 when the hour is up, take them out and hang them on 
 the hooks to cool. Put into the copper the fifty yards 
 of worsted and cotton amber damask, to clean and dip. 
 There is no addition to be made to the preparation in 
 the copper ; boil them well in this for forty minutes, get 
 them up to cool, and throw away the copper; scour it 
 well out, and fill it up with clean water. Get it to boil 
 directly, and begin dyeing them. Your man by this 
 time has them all rinsed and on the pegs to drain. 
 
 Begin and dye the silk and worsted damask amber 
 first. Put into your bag seven pounds of quercitron bark, 
 boil it well for half an hour, open the copper door and 
 damp the fire, get the bag out to drain; save the bag, as 
 you have not done with it yet. Now have the man to 
 help you, open out the damasks, and handle them well 
 in the copper for one hour, then get them up to cool, 
 and they are done. I am looking at the pattern now, 
 as the work ought to be in my mind's eye : for every 
 color I begin to give instructions about, I pin on a bit 
 of brown paper, and go on writing about the color on the 
 pattern before me, but I can assure my readers I find 
 writing more difficult than the dyeing. 
 
 The moreens for yellow are the next. You are to put 
 the bark bag into the copper, and let it stop there, to 
 the last. Now open out your moreens for yellow, put 
 them in the copper, boil them well for an hour, and they 
 are done. 
 
 The next is the cotton and woollen damask. Keep 
 the bark bag in the copper yet, put the damask into the 
 copper, and boil it well for half an hour, handling it 
 well all the time. Open the copper door, damp the fire, 
 hang up the work on the tenter-hooks to cool, and it 
 is done. 
 
 Remarks. — These colors all improve by cleaning in 
 soap after they are dyed, but if the commonest attention 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 181 
 
 is paid to them in the preparation and dyeing there is 
 nothing so easy to be done, and no color less expensive 
 to dye. The silk and worsted damask must be damped, 
 brushed, and framed. Some dyers prefer finishing silk 
 and worsted damask on the rolls, and sending them to 
 the pressers to have them finished — which I think is 
 very proper. 
 
 Weld or Wold to Dye Yellow and Amber. 
 
 The stalks of this ripe plant, when dried and tied in 
 bundles, give, by decotion in water, a yellow color, in- 
 clining to brown. When diluted in water it has a green 
 tinge. The acid renders it paler, and the alkalies dark- 
 er ; alum forms in it a yellow precipitate, and the liquor 
 preserves a lemon color. The solution of tin produces 
 in it an abundant precipitate of a light yellow color, 
 which is employed as a yellow dye; but it will not suc- 
 ceed unless alum and tartar are employed as mordant. 
 The- use of this coloring substance is called welding. 
 Annotto is mixed with it in order to obtain amber and 
 orange casts. — Tourcroy's Chemistry,' vol. viii. p. 96. 
 
 To Dye fifty yards of Moreen with Weld. 
 
 The moreen is boiled for an hour with four pounds of 
 weld, one pound of tartar, and a quart of muriate of 
 tin ; it is then taken out, cooled, and rinsed. One bundle 
 of weld and two pounds of soda are put into a large 
 copper, and the weld is boiled until it falls dead to the 
 bottom of the copper; it is then taken out of the cop- 
 per, and the moreens put in, and well handled for an 
 hour and a half, the copper boiling all the time. If it 
 is not as dark as you wish, put the weld back in the 
 copper with the work, cutting off the roots first. When 
 the time is up, take it out of the copper, and hang it to 
 cool. Now give it a couple of clean cold waters, and put 
 it to drain. Now clean it in clean soap liquors, and fin- 
 ish it in a warm thin liquor of soap, and hang it up in 
 
182 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 a warm room to dry without rinsing. It must be dried 
 in a hot room. 
 
 Remarks.— -This is not so strong & color as the bark, 
 but it is quite as bright as its rival. The bark is getting 
 the better of it, I consider, every day, and will beat it ; 
 weld has had its day, and will be superseded by the 
 quercitron bark. 
 
 To Dye five Ladies' French Merino Dresses five different 
 Colors, from Ruby to Dark Brown in one little copper. 
 
 In my instructions for the cleaning of woollens, I have 
 remarked : sort your woollens and put up all to dry ex- 
 cept the marones, the clarets, the rubies, and all sorts of 
 brown merino dresses. These woollens have been pre- 
 pared for dyeing, that is boiled off in muriate of tin, 
 alum and copperas ; they are now dry, and ready to dye 
 with any of the many dye-stuffs that crimson and brown 
 can be dyed with. I shall dye them now with cudbear, 
 in preference to orchil or peach wood; although in the 
 state they are at present, being full of preparation, they 
 are ready to suck up any dye-stuff they may get. 
 
 Clean out well a small copper, that will hold four or 
 five pails of water, fill it up, and get it on to a boil ; have 
 a clean copper bowl, and begin 
 
 The Ruby, first. Put in your copper bowl two pounds 
 of cudbear, and mix it well with clean water as you 
 would flour ; when mixed, put it in the copper, and 
 take your ruby merino dress, dry as it is, and handle it 
 well in the copper, boiling it all the time for forty min- 
 utes ; now fill up the copper, and take the work out, and 
 put it to drain over one of your clean small vessels to 
 save the liquor that will run from it ; when it is taken 
 out of the copper, the tenter-hooks are the best for it 
 to hang by ; now tell your man to rinse this ruby dress 
 in three cold waters; and hang it up directly in a warm 
 room to dry and it is fit for finishing. 
 
 Crimson is next. I sometimes give those a scarlet 
 body first ; when I do so I only give a dress two ounces 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 183 
 
 of cudbear in a small copper of clean water ; I have not 
 done so in this case, so we must go on. Now mix in 
 the copper bowl as before, one pound of cudbear, and 
 put in the copper, stir it well, and handle the crimson 
 merino dress in the copper for forty minutes, the copper 
 boiling well all the time. Now fill the copper, and take 
 it out to drain as before, and give it to your man to 
 rinse ; tell him to give it five minutes in a common sour, 
 and a cold water after the sour ; hang it up to dry, and 
 see that he does not touch the ruby with it and it is done. 
 
 Marone is the next merino I will dye in this copper. 
 Put one pound of cudbear in the copper for this dress, 
 stir it well and handle it in • make it boil well, and give 
 it twenty minutes, and then get up ; put in the copper 
 half a pound of turmeric, and the merino back again for 
 twenty minute longer, well handling and boiling it all 
 the time ; now fill up the copper with clean water, take 
 up the work to cool, and give it to your man to rinse 
 and hang up to dry carefully, and when dry it is ready 
 for dressing. 
 
 • Claret is next in the same copper. Give this an- 
 other pound of cudbear, and half an hour's good boil- 
 ing ; take it up, and fill one of your large kettles with 
 scalding water ; melt half a pound of copperas in it, 
 handle it well in this for a quarter of an hour ; take it 
 up, cool, and rinse it in three waters, and put it in the 
 copper again, and boil it well for half a hour ; get it up 
 to drain, and tell your man to rinse it well, and hang it 
 up to dry, and when dry it is ready for dressing. 
 
 Brown and Rappee are next in your copper. For 
 these two merinos, put one pound of cudbear, one pound 
 of turmeric, and one pound of sumach in the copper, and 
 handle in these two merinos, and boil them well for half 
 an hour ; fill up the copper, and hang them up to drain 
 over a kettle, and melt a half a pound of copperas in 
 the kettle you had for the claret, and handle them in 
 this for a quarter of an hour, and get them up and rinse 
 them in thrje waters, and put them back in the cop- 
 per, and boil them for half an hour; get them up to 
 
184 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 drain, give the man the brown to rinse and hang up, and 
 return the rappee merino in the saddening for a quar- 
 ter of an hour; again take it up, rinse, and return it in 
 the copper ; boil it well for half an hour, take it up, cool 
 it, rinse it, hang it up to dry in a warm room, and when 
 dry it is ready for finishing, and tell your man to empty 
 the copper, and fill it up with clean water, and you have 
 done these five dresses. 
 
 These merino dresses have been previously prepared 
 in a clean copper of water, and well boiled in a mordant 
 or preparation of alum, muriate of tin, and copperas, 
 well rinsed in cold waters and dried. We are now going 
 to dye them in a different way to the above. 
 
 Another Method to Dye the above. 
 
 The merino dress for ruby cannot be dyed this way, 
 it must be dyed with cudbear or archil. This dress for 
 ruby has not been prepared with the others, it does not 
 want it. Clean out a copper that will hold ten pails, 
 and put one pail of peachwood chips in it; make it boil 
 well for a quarter of an hour, and put the merino for 
 marone in it, dry as it is, and boil it well for forty min- 
 utes ; fill up the copper with clean water, and take the 
 merino and give it to your man to rinse and hang up 
 and it is done. The next is the claret. Put a bowl of 
 your boiled-up logwood liquor in your copper ; half a 
 bowl will do if the logwood liquor is strong, and han- 
 dle in the claret dress for forty minutes ; fill up the 
 copper, take up the dress, and give it to your man to 
 rinse, and it is done. The brown and rappee are next 
 in the copper. Put in two bowls of logwood and half 
 a pail of fustic chips, and boil well before you put the 
 merino dresses in. Now get them in and boil them well 
 for an hour, handling them well all the time ; now fill 
 up the copper, and take the merinos and cool them, and 
 give the brown to your man to rinse and hang up, and 
 they are done, and put two more bowls of logwood 
 into the copper, and boil the rappee merino in it for 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 185 
 
 forty minutes ; fill up your copper, draw the copper fire, 
 take up the merino to cool, give it to your man to 
 rinse and hang up, and you have done so far. These 
 merino dresses when dry must be damped, picked, and 
 well brushed before they are finished. 
 
 Remarks. — These four merinos have been boiled off 
 in muriate of tin, alum, and copperas ; I did not put in 
 chrome, and dried out of it, or they would not have run 
 off so easy. There are two more merinos to dye yet — 
 one ruby and one crimson ; I mean to dye them next, 
 for the purpose of drawing a comparison of the expenses 
 of dyeing six merino dresses one way, and of dyeing six 
 merino dresses a different way. Although there are 
 more ways to dye this work, I have taken what I con- 
 sider the two best. 
 
 To Dye two Merino Dr 'esses , one Crimson and one Ruby, 
 
 Take a small copper that will hold four or five pails 
 of water, clean it well and make it boil, and put into it 
 half a small teacupful of crude tartar. Boil this for five 
 minutes, and put into the copper half a pound of coch- 
 ineal, and half a pint of grain spirits, and a quarter of a 
 pint of cochineal paste (see page 161.) Put the merino 
 for crimson in this copper, and boil it well for forty min- 
 utes, well handling it all the time, and take it up and 
 cool it ; when cool, give it to your man to rinse, and 
 hang up in a warm room, and it is done, and. when dry, 
 ready for finishing. 
 
 The ruby is next put into your copper. For the ruby, 
 one quarter of a pound of cochineal, a quarter of a pint 
 of grain spirits ; handle this in the copper for forty 
 minutes ; open the copper door, damp the fire, and take 
 up the merino to cool ; give it to your man to rinse, and 
 throw away the copper ; scour it out well, filHt up with 
 clean water, and get it on to a boil directly. Now put 
 in the copper one quart of archil, stir it well, and put 
 the ruby dress in, and very gently simmer it for forty 
 minutes, well handling it all the time ; when the time 
 
186 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 is up, open the copper door, damp the fire, and take the 
 ruby merino out of the copper, hang it up to cool, and 
 give it to your man to rinse, and hang up in a warm 
 room to dry. 
 
 Remarks. — These are the last two merinos of the six 
 that I have dyed to show the comparative expense of 
 dyeing six merinos one way, and six merinos another 
 way, and still produce the very same colors. Perhaps 
 some of my young friends may improve on this ; it is 
 for old men to give their experience, and it is the duty 
 of young men to improve by practice what their elder 
 brethren have been doing. It often happens that the 
 apprentice is a better workman than his master, and I 
 hope it may continue so to the end of time, for if that 
 progressive improvement in our arts and sciences was 
 to stop, the world would be at a stand still. 
 
 LOGWOOD. 
 
 " Campeachy or logwood grows in abundance in Ja- 
 maica, of which it bears the name ; this wood differs 
 from Brazil only by the dyes which it affords ; its color- 
 ing part is of the same nature ; it is rendered lighter 
 and yellow by raw acids, darker and violet by the alka- 
 lies, and becomes black in the air with iron ; is ex- 
 tremely soluble in water ; cannot be fixed alone on stuffs, 
 but requires the action of mordants ; is rendered soluble 
 by the metallic solutions alum and tartar ; it is like Bra- 
 zil wood, an extractive color, sknvly combustible by the' 
 contact of air ; it is especially employed for violet dyes, 
 and for giving a velvet appearance and lustre to the black 
 and grays ; it is used in the dyeing of silk and woollen, 
 to produce a great number of dyes, from the lilac to the 
 dark violet, by means of the solution of tin. Dark col- 
 ored and considerably solid lakes are prepared with this 
 decoction." — From 'Fourcroy's Chemistry,' vol. viii. p. 95. 
 
. WOOLLEN DYEING. 187 
 
 To Dye Black on Woollen Fabrics with Logwood. 
 
 As it is not common to dye moreens or damasks black, 
 and it is principally confined to French and English 
 merinos in pieces, and made up, and cloaks, coats, trou- 
 sers and shawls, and other woollens we dyers have, I 
 will use a little copper that will hold four or five pails 
 of water, and dye a lady's French merino dress black. 
 Supposing it to measure eight or ten yards, I would give 
 it the same weight of logwood as wool. No matter 
 what color it is, it can be dyed black. When the dyer 
 is going to dye black woollens he will look in my book 
 and choose which way he will dye them, and say, " If 
 Love allows so much drugs for a merino dress of eight 
 or ten yards, how much drugs will he allow for this lot 
 of woollens I have to dye]" From the beginning of 
 this book I have tried to use as plain language as pos- 
 sible, and to give weight, measurement, and time to every 
 color. I constantly study to make my instructions as 
 plain and simple as possible, that a child might under- 
 stand me ; I do not give a long rigmarole way of telling 
 how this thing acts, and how the other thing acts, of 
 causes and effects, but I go to work with the confidence 
 and experience of nearly forty years. 
 
 To Dye a new piece of Woollen Cloth Blacky or Black in 
 
 Grain. 
 
 New pieces of cloth as they come from the loom are 
 ridiculous-looking articles, and but for the dyer would 
 not be looked at ; they are for all the world like white 
 and gray frieze, full of grease from its own nature, and 
 from different causes in the manufacture. When the 
 dyer has them to dye black he scours them well in hot 
 chamberlye and ash, which turns all the grease into 
 soap, and rinses this well out of it and dyes it a dark 
 woad, or vatted blue. After he dyes it in the woad blue 
 vat, he is obliged to clean the lime and other stuffs it 
 gets in the vat out of it, so as to open the pores of the 
 
188 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 wool, or it would not take the black dye well. The 
 bluing and cleaning is called bodying it for black 
 in grain, and dyes used for black are logwood, fustic, and 
 copperas, allowing two pounds of logwood, two pounds 
 of fustic, and one pound of copperas, for every ten yards 
 of cloth. This is boiled well in the logwood and fustic 
 for two hours, turning it over the winch all the time ; 
 it is then got up quickly on the winch, one man turning 
 it, and another man opening the cloth with a stick as it 
 comes up on the winch out of the copper. The copperas 
 is melted in a kettle while the cloth is getting up on the 
 winch, so that the cloth will not lie on the winch a min- 
 ute longer than it can be helped ; the melted copperas 
 is now put into the copper, and the copper well stirred, 
 and the cloth put into the copper, quickly off the winch, 
 and put under the liquor as it comes off, and then turned 
 back again, the man opening it and pushing down all 
 the time ; it must boil in this well for two hours ; it is 
 then taken out of the copper and put on a horse to cool. 
 The horse is placed before two men, and the cloth is 
 thrown across ft, each man takes hold of opposite sel- 
 vages pulling one against the other, and jerking the 
 piece of cloth in their hands, it is thrown to the other 
 end of the horse, making regular folds, and so on until 
 the cloth is cooled, never letting it touch the ground. 
 They take it now to the river, and with two long flat 
 sticks they beat all the dye-stuff out of it, and reconvey 
 in back to the dye-house, fold it on the horse, and give 
 it a clean copper of fustic, allowing two pounds for every 
 ten yards of cloth ; this is to jet, soften, and cleanse it, 
 which it does admirably. Some dyers put archil in with 
 the fustic, but that is only for very fine clothes, as archil 
 is so expensive. Sometimes they have an archil copper 
 left after dyeing the vatted blues, and they throw that in 
 the fustic, for finishing the blacks ; they then boil the 
 cloth in the fustic for two hours, well winching it all the 
 time, and then throw it across the horse and cool it as 
 before, taking it again to the river, rinsing and beating 
 it as before, again taking it back to the dye-house, where 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 189 
 
 it is folded on the horse, and dried on the tenters (see 
 page 24.) 
 
 Remarks. — This is the process pursued for the supe- 
 rior cloth that will pay for all this trouble and expense. 
 The next way is, after cleaning, to dye the cloth blue 
 and to boil in miravelines, logwood, walnut shells, or 
 roots instead of miravelines or galls for four hours ; then 
 take it up and give it copperas ; well boil it in this for 
 two hours; take it up on the horse, and take it to the 
 river and well beat it with the sticks, and bring it back 
 to the dye-house, where it is folded on the horse, and 
 given an old fustic copper and boiled well in this ; then 
 throw it on the horse to cool, and it is well beat in the 
 stream. Put it on the kreel, take it to the horse, fold 
 it and tenter it, and it is done. These are what are 
 called blue blacks. 
 
 Another way to Dye new Piece Cloth Black, as it comes 
 from the Loom without Vatting. 
 
 Clean this new piece of cloth in hot chamberlye and 
 ash, well rinse it, and put on the horse to drain, and for 
 every pound weight, when it was dry, in the cloth, put 
 three-quarters of a pound of miravelines ; boil this well 
 for half an hour before you put the cloth in ; have the 
 winch up and ready for use. Now put the cloth in the 
 copper ; one man turning the winch, and another man 
 opening the cloth as it goes over it, and pushing it down. 
 Boil it well in this bodying liquor for two hours ; put 
 in a copper three ounces of copperas for every pound of 
 wool, and melt it ready to go in the copper. Take up the 
 cloth carefully on the winch, and put the copperas and 
 the cloth back, and boil it well for two hours. When 
 the time is up, put it on the horse to cool, and while it is 
 cooling have the copper emptied, and get on with clean 
 water ; the cloth, with passing and repassing on the 
 horse is cool by this time ; rinse it well in the running 
 stream, put it on the barrow, and put it on the horse in 
 the dye-house. Put in the copper a quarter of a pound 
 
190 
 
 LOVE S DYER AND SCOURER. 
 
 of logwood chips, and half a quarter of a pound of fustic 
 chips, for every pound of wool as above. Put the cloth 
 in this copper, and boil it well for an hour, and get it up 
 and rinse it in the river, well beating it with the sticks 
 all this time. Now get it out, put it on the barrow, 
 take it into the dye-house, and put it on the horse to 
 drain, and tenter it. This is a very good black, for it 
 will last as long as the cloth. 
 
 To Dye ten yards of French Merino Black. 
 
 Have a small copper that will hold four or five pails 
 of water, get it on to a boil, and weigh the merino, and 
 put the same weight of logwood chips into the. copper. 
 Handle the merino into the copper, dirty and dry as it 
 is ; and boil it well in this for forty minutes ; keep hand- 
 ling it well all the time. Now get it up and cool it, and 
 put in the copper four ounces of copperas, and put the 
 merino back in the copper, well boiling it for forty 
 minutes, and then take it out of the copper, and hang 
 it on the tenters to cool. Throw away the contents of 
 the copper, and fill it with clean water, and rinse the 
 merino in one cold water, then a spirit of common sour, 
 "and. a cold water after the spirit, and clean it w T ell in 
 soap liquors ; Spirit and rinse it out of a thin soap liquor, 
 and hang it up to dry, and when it is dry, it is ready for 
 finishing. • 
 
 Remarks. — I always cool my woollens out of the cop- 
 per before I rinse them, they will never get heat wrinkled 
 if that plan is adopted ; and merinos cooled before they 
 are rinsed, do not require so much finishing as those 
 that are put straight out of the copper into the cold 
 rinsing water. It is easy to knock up a few tenter-hooks 
 anywhere to cool the work. This is a very simple way 
 of dyeing black woollens, and it is dyed at once; if I 
 had a dozen merinos to dye, I would not give the same 
 weight of logwood for the dozen, as I would for one. I 
 would only give the weight often merinos of the logwood 
 to dye the dozen merinos. If you will look back to my 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. l9l 
 
 description of a dye-house, you will see that I have there 
 spoken of a cistern (page 19), to put my old soap liquors 
 in, instead of throwing them away ; after I have dyed 
 my black woollens, I throw the copper down, and fill it 
 up with old soap ; put some ash or soda in it, and heat 
 it up to clean the blacks ; when dyed this way they are 
 a strong color. 
 
 Another Method to Dye Black Woollens. 
 
 Take ten yards of merino, and clean it very well ; 
 spirit, rinse, and put it to drain ; put into the little cop- 
 per eight ounces of copperas, four ounces of blue stone, 
 and four ounces of argol; boil these for one hour, and 
 take up. and cool ; rinse in two waters, and put on a peg 
 to drain. Put weight for weight of logwood chips in the 
 copper, with a handful of soda, and boil well for half an 
 hour ; damp the fire, and empty the copper into a kettle, 
 chips and liquor. Put a sieve over the copper, and strain 
 the logwood liquor back into the copper, and put melted 
 mottled soap in it enough to make a soap liquor of it ; 
 get on the copper, not to a boil, but sufficient to keep it 
 near to a scald; now put in the work, and handle it in 
 the copper for half an hour, and take it up to cool, and 
 put three ounces of turmeric in the copper, and a couple 
 of bowls of logwood liquor, and handle the work in the 
 copper for another half hour ; take it up, cool it, and 
 finish it in a good hot thin liquor of mottled soap, and 
 hang it in a stove room to dry quickly. 
 
 Remarks. — This is a very proper copper to dip a black 
 merino dress that is for cleaning and dipping. Put in 
 the copper a couple of bowls of logwood liquor ; put it 
 in dry, and give it twenty minutes in it ; get it up and 
 clean it ; if it is in pieces, take it out of a thin liquor, 
 and dry it quickly; if it is a made-up dress, take it out 
 of common salt and water ; well rinse first before it gets 
 the salt. When you are dyeing these blacks, do not let 
 the copper by any means boil ; if you do you will rot the 
 work ; the soap rots all kinds of woollen goods, jf boiled 
 
192 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 in it for a moment only. This is a very clean bright 
 way of dyeing black woollens, but it is not a strong 
 color. 
 
 Common Table Salt a Binder of Colors. 
 
 " The word salt was originally confined to common 
 salt ; it was, however, afterwards so generalized as to in- 
 clude every body which is sapid, easily melted, soluble 
 in water, and not combustible ; at present it denotes a 
 compound in definite proportions of any matter that the 
 resulting substance does not affect the color, but on the 
 contrary binds it ; colors such as greens, blues, pinks, 
 scarlets, crimsons, and puces, are colors bound by an 
 acid and must not have common salt, nothing but com- 
 mon sour, that is very weak oil of vitriol diluted with 
 water, so as the spirit of the vitriol will hardly taste in 
 the water." — From ' Dr. Paris's Elements of Chemistry,' 
 page 424. 
 
 " The marine acid is obtained from common culinary 
 salt ; common salt is found in large masses of rocks in 
 England and elsewhere ; there are also many salt springs 
 in various parts of the world, and the waters of the 
 ocean everywhere. In England, a brine is composed of 
 sea water, with the addition of rock salt ; it is evapo- 
 rated in large shallow iron boilers, and the crystals of salt 
 are taken out of it in baskets. Salt that was made on 
 Sandwich marshes or fiats, was made by spontaneous 
 evaporation ; flats are what they used to put the salt 
 water in to evaporate, at Ringsend, near Dublin ; they 
 make the salt by the addition of rock salt with sea water, 
 taken in at high tide." — From ' Nicholson's First Prin- 
 ciples of Chemistry,' page 176. 
 
 In cleaning and dipping the black merino, I said take 
 it out of common salt, well rinsed before it gets the salt. 
 Salt is one of our best color binders, and you will hear 
 of it a great many times before I have done with this 
 book. It is, next to common sour, one of our best 
 friends, for in cleaning the different colors with soap, 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 193 
 
 we must be very expeditious and cautious ; but there 
 is no fear as long as we have two such esteemed friends 
 at our elbow as common salt and common sour. At the 
 earliest opportunity, I will introduce my readers to my 
 old and respected friend, common sour. 
 
 Chrome, used as a Mordant or Preparation for Woollen 
 and Cotton Dyeing, in old or new Work. 
 
 "Chromic acid is an orange-colored powder, composed 
 of chromium and oxygen ; it has an acrid metallic taste, 
 soluble in water; the solution is of a pale yellow, it 
 assumes a variety of beautiful colors, when mixed with 
 different saline solutions; it also forms various salts, 
 called chromates ; chromic acid was discovered by Vau- 
 quelin, it is procured from the red lead ore of Siberia, 
 by separating the lead from the ore by nitric acid." — 
 From ' Parke's Chemical Catechism,' page 245. 
 
 To Dye ten yards of French Merino Chrome Black. 
 
 Dyers have different ways of cleaning their woollens 
 for chrome black, but the best way is to clean them 
 well in soap and water, and boil them well for half an 
 hour in clean water and argol ; take them up, and hang 
 them up to cool ; throw away the contents of the copper : 
 fill it up with clean water, make it boil, and put four 
 ounces of chrome and four ounces of crude tartar in the 
 copper. Now put in the merino, and boil it well for 
 forty minutes, take it up, cool it, throw away the con- 
 tents of the copper, and fill it up with clean water. Make 
 it boil, and put an equal weight of logwood chips for the 
 merino to be dyed, as before directed into the copper, 
 and a quarter of that weight of fustic chips : make 
 these boil well for ten minutes, and rinse the merino in 
 two clean waters, drain it, and put it in the copper, and 
 boil it well for one hour, handling it well all the time ; 
 when the hour is up, take it up and cool, rinse, and dry 
 it and it is done. 
 13 
 
194 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 Remarks. — This is a very good rich black, and has be- 
 come a great favorite of late years in the trade, and does 
 not soil the hands. Some dyers get on a copper, and 
 fill it with clean water, get it on to a boil, and clean 
 their woollens as they do the new, with chamber-lye, 
 rinse them out of it, and proceed with the dyeing with- 
 out boiling them off in argol, that is, they make two cop- 
 pers dye the work, one for preparation in chrome and 
 tartar and a clean copper for logwood and fustic, and 
 well rinsed in three clean cold waters for a finish. 
 
 To Dye Orleans and Cobourgs Black. 
 
 Before dyeing Orleans and Cobourgs black, prepare in 
 strong cold sumach eight or ten hours, lift out and sad- 
 den with copperas or acetate of iron ; rinse in two 
 waters and boil in chrome for an hour ; take up, cool, 
 and rinse in two clean waters ; dye with logwood and 
 fustic, rinse and finish out of a clean fustic liquor. 
 
 To Dye Orleans and Cobourgs Brown. 
 
 Prepare in sumach, sadden and rinse in two clean 
 waters, and for twenty yards of Orleans or Cobourgs, boil 
 up two pounds of redwood and seven pounds of fustic ; 
 strain off the chips, and dye in the liquor ; if not dark 
 enough, sadden in scalding water, rinse^and return in the 
 copper for twenty minutes ; get up and rinse in clean 
 cold waters. 
 
 To Dye Orleans and Cobourgs Marone. 
 
 Prepare in cold sumach for twelve hours, get up and 
 sadden, rinse and hot alum ; and for twenty yards boil 
 up four pounds of peachwood chips ; put in your work 
 and boil well for forty minutes, get up, strain off the 
 chips, and add half a pound of cudbear; return and boil 
 for twenty minutes, get up,rinse in clean cold waters ; 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 195 
 
 the above ought to have a water starch or common size 
 for a finish. 
 
 To Dye fifty pounds of Wool Jet Black. 
 
 Prepare with two pounds and a half of chrome, boil an 
 hour and wash in two waters. 
 
 Dye with twenty pounds of logwood and two pounds 
 of fustic ; boil it well in this- for one hour ; rinse in one 
 water, then a slight sour moderately warm, then one 
 cold water, and finish out of a warm one, softened with 
 a little urine. 
 
 A pound of wool woven into English or French me- 
 rino measures about three yards; common moreen or 
 damask about two yards. 
 
 A pound of silk woven into plain or figured sarcenet 
 or satin measures about thirteen yards; that depends 
 on the thickness of them. 
 
 To Dye fifty pounds of Wool a fast Black. 
 
 Prepare with two pounds of chrome, one pound of tar- 
 tar, and one quart of muriate of tin ; boil one hour 
 and wash in two waters; dye with twenty-five pounds 
 of logwood and three pounds of fustic, and boil for thirty 
 minutes ; lift and add one pint of vitriol and return for 
 ten minutes, then wash as above and dry. For to dye a 
 fast blue black use the same materials and time as above, 
 leaving out the fustic ; rinse as usual. — From 4 Thomp- 
 son's Dyer's Assistant,' p. 37. 
 
 To Dye French Blue Woollens. 
 
 Get two pints of spirits of salts and one pint of oil of 
 vitriol ; mix them together, and be careful that they do 
 not fly over. Have a pickle-jar, put in the spirits of 
 salts first, and then the vitriol, very gently. Put in 
 eight ounces of sal-nixon, pounded very fine ; stir it 
 with a pipe-shank, and let it stand all night. Then to 
 
196 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 a copper that will hold five pails of clear water put a 
 pint of these spirits, half a pound of prussiate, and a 
 quarter of a pound of sal-nixon, melted with two quarts 
 of boiling water in a stone mug ; let it settle and put 
 in the clear liquor in the copper, and commence dyeing 
 a French merino dress in Prussian blue. Begin cold, 
 and go on gradually until you get it up to a boil, and then 
 boil it well for twenty minutes; get it up, and cool it, 
 and rinse well in three or four waters, and in the last 
 water, put in a little raw spirits of salts, give it time in 
 it, and get it up to dry. This is one of the colors I 
 always sheet up dry, as it is the safest. 
 
 Another way. 
 
 Seven pounds of raw spirits of salts, three pounds of 
 oil of vitriol, then add one pound of steel filings, three 
 pounds of green copperas, and last, fourteen pounds of 
 muriate of tin ; all is to be put in gently, and when the 
 heat of the first mixture ceases a little, it must be con- 
 tinued by keeping the jar in hot water, until it eats up 
 all the iron ; then take it out, let it settle, bottle it off, 
 and it is fit for use. 
 
 To dye Prussian blue with this preparation, you must 
 put in the copper half a pound of crude tartar first, and 
 half a pound of copperas, and one pint of the prepara- 
 tion ; boil it well in this for twenty minutes ; take it up, 
 cool it, and return it, and boil for twenty minutes longer ; 
 get it up, cool it, rinse, and dye it. Throw away the 
 copper, and fill it with clean cold water, and melt a 
 quarter of a pound of prussiate in a stone mug, and when 
 melted put it in the copper, and handle the merino in ; 
 get it on cold, and go on as fast as you like until you 
 make it boil ; then boil it for ten minutes, ,and take it 
 up, cool it, and rinse it in three clean waters, with a 
 little common sour in each water. 
 
 This is a color I always sheet up dry. This prepara- 
 tion does as a mordant for French blue on silks ; use 
 half a pint in three pails of warm water ; handle it for 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. It) 7 
 
 ten minutes, rinse, and give it a quarter of a pound of 
 prussiate in a clean kettle, and clean hot water ; give 
 it ten minutes in this, and return it in the preparation, 
 and so go on from one liquor to the other, until you have 
 it the color you require ; then rinse and sheet up dry. 
 
 The Lyons Preparation for Crimson, Puce, Scarlet, Br own, 
 Lavender, and Green, for both Silks and Woollens. 
 
 Mix four pounds of muriatic acid with ten pounds of 
 oil of vitriol ; after this mixture gets cold, add ten 
 pounds of aquafortis to it, then kill it with four pounds 
 of grain tin. Put the jar in sand or hot water, to give 
 it a gentle heat while the spirit is working, and when it 
 has done working, add twenty-four pounds of water to 
 it, that is, the same weight of water to the same weight 
 of the three spirits ; let it, rest for two or three days, 
 and then bottle it off, and it is fit for use. Be sure to 
 keep a stopper on it. 
 
 The Parisian Preparation for the above Colors. 
 
 Fifteen pounds of spirits of salts, fifteen pounds of 
 oil of vitriol, and fifteen pounds of water, all mixed to- 
 gether ; then put in the above five pounds of grain tin ; 
 put this in hot sand, or to swim in boiling water direct- 
 ly, and the next morning add ten pounds of water to it ; 
 let it lie by for a day or two, and it is fit for use. Pro- 
 portions : five pounds of spirits of salts, fifteen pounds 
 of oil of vitriol, ten pounds of bay salt, five pounds of 
 grain tin, and ten pounds of water ; the stopper must 
 be attended to when bottled off; I always use a good 
 strong stone-ware water pitcher, and good strong stone 
 jars to put the spirits in after I have killed it; carboys 
 are as good, but they are easily broken. By these in- 
 structions, one pound or one hundred pounds can be 
 made, more or less. Let your spirits be 25° by the 
 French glass. 
 
198 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 The Spitalfields Preparation for the above. 
 
 Ten pounds of aquafortis, five pounds of muriatic 
 acid, one pound of the spirit of nitre, and two pounds 
 of grain tin (see directions to melt the tin in page 93.) 
 Put all these in a stone pitcher, and put them in some 
 warm corner, and they will digest themselves, and be 
 ready for use in a few days. This is the complement 
 of spirits. This spirit is put in the copper with alum 
 and tartar, to make a preparation of woollens, when it 
 is the dyer's intention to dye them crimson or marone 
 with peachwood or Brazil. I like muriate of tin best, 
 it is not so raw. 
 
 Sulphuric Acid — Oil of Vitriol. 
 
 " In the large manufactories for making sulphuric 
 acid, called oil of vitriol works, the sulphur is mixed 
 with an eighth of its weight of dry nitre, and burnt in 
 very large leaden chambers. The design in using the 
 nitre is to give a larger quantity of pure oxygen gas 
 than could be afforded by confined atmospheric air alone. 
 The floor of the chamber is covered with water, that 
 the sulphuric acid gas may be condensed as it is formed. 
 An indefinite quantity of water is poured into the cham- 
 bers, and when the manufacturer finds it become suffi- 
 ciently acid, this acid water is drawn off, and concen- 
 trated by boiling. It is then removed to glass retorts, 
 where it receives a greater heat to drive off a further 
 portion of the water. It is considered fit for sale when 
 it is boiled down to the specific gravity of 1.845. The 
 more it boils the stronger it gets, and they are obliged 
 to stop at 2.000 or it would get so oily that it would be 
 useless for commerce. If you visit the apartment 
 where the bottles are boiling in sand, the gas that es- 
 capes from, the mouths of the bottles will turn the color 
 of your clothes ; and if it is a low room, and you are a 
 tall man, it is sure to make your black hat brown. Palm- 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 199 
 
 ing the men would prevent that." — From ' Parke's 
 Chemical Catechism,' page 222. 
 
 Muriatic Acid, or Spirit of Salts. 
 
 If we pour oil of vitriol upon common sea salt, white 
 fumes will immediately rise, very full of acid. They are 
 muriatic acid gas ; from the concentration of it in re- 
 torts with mercury, muriatic acid is made. When per- 
 fectly pure, it is colorless. 
 
 " Nitric Acid, or Aquafortis, is made from equal weights 
 of nitre and oil of vitriol, and is distilled in stone-ware 
 vessels. Orange and yellow vapors are the result of the 
 combination of the nitre and oil of vitriol, and an orange 
 colored liquor will be found in the receiver, which is 
 aquafortis, and is easily acted on by tin. Tin is found 
 in the mines in Cornwall. Employed with spirits, it is 
 a powerful attraction for dye-stuffs." — From ' Dr. Paris's 
 Chemistry,' pages 331 and 441. 
 
 Directions to @lean and Re-dye forty yards of Pale Blue 
 Moreen or Damask, Bed or Window Curtains. 
 
 This work must be cleaned in clean warm soap liquors, 
 without ash or soda in them, and folded up out of the 
 last liquor, the thin soap liquor, and put on the pegs to 
 drain. Put in a thirty-gallon copper of clean scalding 
 hot water half a pint of oil of vitriol, now open out the 
 work and handle it well in the copper for forty minutes ; 
 the copper by no means is to boil, for if it does you will 
 have a bad color. When the time is up, get up the 
 work out of the copper to cool, fold, and drain ; empty 
 the copper, scour it, and fill it with clean water ; make 
 it boil, put in half a pound of alum, skim off what the 
 alum throws up on the surface, open the copper door, 
 and damp the fire in such a manner as to keep the cop- 
 per scalding hot, but not to boil. Now put in first half 
 a pound of tartaric acid, four ounces of Saxon blue, or 
 half a pound of paste blue, and see that your dyeing 
 
200 loye's dyer and scourer. 
 
 liquor in a saucer is two shades darker than your pat- 
 tern ; if it is, go on dyeing the work, if not, give more 
 blue till it is. Begin the dyeing by first opening out 
 the work, and handle it in the copper with clean sticks 
 for one hour, then get them up, cool and rinse in one 
 cold water, dry, and finish them, and they are done. We 
 are often obliged to get up these out of the copper to 
 give them more blue and return them. Some dyers pre- 
 fer paste blue to Saxon blue, but the blue drawn off the 
 blanket is preferable to either. 
 
 Directions to Clean and Dye seventy yards of Drab Da- 
 mask Window Curtains, Emerald Green. 
 
 Melt two bars of soap in eight pails of boiling water, 
 and put in a tub four pails of very hot water, one pound 
 of pearlash, and three pails of melted soap. Make two 
 equal lots of the damask, and go on cleaning one lot, 
 then the other, in the soap liquor in the tub. When 
 this is done, make up another soap liquor exactly like 
 the first, and clean the two lots in this, letting the last 
 lot go first this time. When this is done get them up 
 to drain, and give them a similar soap liquor, but with 
 less ash and soap in it. This is the thin liquor ; put 
 them through this, and fold up to drain (not rinse), and 
 put three parts of a pint of vitriol in a forty-gallon, very 
 clean copper of scalding hot water and one pint of mu- 
 riate of tin. Open the damasks and handle them in 
 the preparation for an hour ; it must not boil ; and get 
 them up, cool, fold, and put on the pegs to drain, not 
 rinse (see pegs, page 22). Now throw away your pre- 
 paration, scour the copper welL fill it with clean water, 
 and put in fourteen pounds of fustic chips, make it boil 
 fifteen minutes, and put in a pound of ground alum, and 
 a quarter of a pint of Saxon blue, and see that your 
 dye-stuff is two shades darker than your pattern, in a 
 clean white saucer ; if not, give it no more fustic or 
 alum, but more blue, till it is. Open your damask, put 
 in the copper and boil it well for an hour and a half, 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 20] 
 
 well handling it all the time ; then get it up, cool it in 
 three cold waters, dry it, press it, and it is clone. 
 
 Watering Moreens by Steam in a Cylinder Calender. 
 
 Moreen is a strong, plain, wove woollen fabric, with 
 the weft much thicker than the warp, from twenty-two 
 to thirty inches wide, is plain both sides, and is princi- 
 pally manufactured from Lincolnshire and Yorkshire 
 long wool ; it is dyed at Leeds and Bradford, in York- 
 shire, and is seldom used for any other purpose than bed 
 and window curtains. Of late it has been much used 
 for ladies' petticoats. When it is wove and dyed it is 
 not n't for use until it is finished, and is mostly watered. 
 
 The watering is done at Manchester, in a friction cal- 
 ender, by steam. 
 
 A friction calender has three rollers — two paper and 
 one hollow polished cast iron one, called a cylinder, 
 between the two paper ones ; this cylinder is about half 
 the size of the paper rollers, is heated by steam, and 
 must be hotter than a common smoothing-iron when in 
 use, before it is fit for work. To give some idea of the 
 power that is required for watering moreens, an iron 
 flatting-mill is generally on the same premises, and 
 worked by the same steam engine. 
 
 The moreen, when it comes to be watered, is doubled, 
 that is, two pieces are placed face to face fiat, put through 
 a conroy, and rolled on a spindle. A conroy is a frame 
 of wood, two feet six inches high, three feet wide, and 
 four feet long ; it has wooden rails across it, one higher 
 than the other, and through these rails it is forced by 
 turning it on the spindle ; and by passing it through this 
 conroy it is stretched, and the warp wift edges made 
 regular and fit to go to the engine for watering. Now 
 these two pieces of moreen have been put through the 
 conroy on the spindle, the spindle is brought over to the 
 calender, and put on the sockets. 
 
 Now that the calender is going, the man takes the 
 ends of the two pieces that are double on the spindle, 
 
202 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 and puts them flat on the bottom paper roller, and pushes 
 them gently under the cylinder, which nips them, and 
 as they roll through a man receives them at the other 
 side, lifts them on the cylinder, and pushes them on top 
 of the cylinder, and under the top paper roller — these 
 two rollers nip them, and they roll through ; as they 
 come through they are lifted on the top paper roller, and 
 as they roll over it they drop into a basket without any 
 assistance, and they are done so far on one side ; the 
 other side has to be glazed, and the basket is now turned 
 over again to the man at the front, and he reverses the 
 moreen, and puts it through again in exactly the same 
 way as the first time, and it drops into the basket fin- 
 ished, glazed on both sides, and watered in the middle. 
 The basket or spindle is now taken to the makers-up or 
 folding-room, and the two pieces are taken asunder, 
 measured, and rolled separately, the number of yards put 
 on it,* papered, and it is ready for sale. 
 
 Instead of a basket for the work to drop in, in some 
 calenders there is a small spindle, worked by steam which 
 it rolls on, as it. comes over the top of the paper roller. 
 It is better than a basket, and this moreen that has been 
 bed and window curtains, cleaned and re-dyed, is also 
 watered in the above way. 
 
 Description of a Friction Calender. 
 
 The friction calender has three rollers, hollow steel, 
 solid paper, and polished cast iron hollow ; it is called a 
 steel roller or cylinder ; it is turned or heated by steam 
 on red hot cast iron rollers, like window weights is put 
 into the hollow centre of the polished steel roller or cyl- 
 inder and when this steel roller or cylinder is sufficiently 
 heated, send the work damped, stretched, rolled on a 
 roller, and ready to finish. The three rollers are tight- 
 ened by a screw at top ends of the rollers, and the fur- 
 niture cotton is laid singly and flat on the lower or paper 
 roller, and the fingers gently move it forward to the steel 
 roller, all now in motion, and both rollers nip the ends 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. '203 
 
 that the fingers push to them and carries it through to 
 the other side and drops it in a basket, while the piece 
 of cotton is carried through the rollers by the rotary 
 motion of them ; a man is smoothing it as it passes off a 
 small roller that it has been stretched and carefully rolled 
 on a spindle through a conroy before it. Old work is 
 seldom conroyed, before it comes to the friction calender 
 to be finished. This calender when in work will finish 
 an immense quantity of work in a short time, and while 
 it is at work it must not stop for a moment, or the hot 
 polished steel roller will damage the work, or the paper 
 rollers that are above and below it — and when the cal- 
 ender has done its work the sc*rew that tightened it is 
 now used to lift the paper rollers from the steel one, and 
 it is alone between the centre of the two and the heaters 
 drawn out, if heaters are used. The printed bed and 
 window furniture for this kind of finish must be taken 
 apart. There must be no seam in it. . It must be well 
 cleaned and stiffened, say half a quartern of flour and 
 half an ounce of beeswax, made into starch, is enough 
 for 100 yards ; it must be hung up to dry very straight 
 as the calenderers will not pull the lugs out that it will 
 get in careless drying — they will calender it nearly in 
 the same shape as you send it to them. The print 
 ought to be damped and the breadths and pieces pulled 
 but straight before they are sent to the calender. 
 
 This friction calender finishes all sorts of colors of 
 woollen and cotton, and when stiffened with a water starch 
 it finishes better, and woollen damasks for a nice gloss 
 and evenness of finish is very superior to pressing, and 
 it also stretches the damask very much and has a nice 
 feel. 
 
 Entirely silk damask, any color, I would recommend 
 to be damped and brushed, and not framed by any 
 means, but sent to the friction calender for a finish. The 
 calender man must not screw it down as if it were cot- 
 ton. In London, Manchester, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Bel- 
 fast, and Dublin, there are these calenders, and Baver- 
 stock, Great Russell street, Bloomsbury, is a practical 
 
204: love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 hand at this work. The above work is now and always 
 was, sent to the hot pressers for a finish ; what are dyers 
 to do but finish in this way if they prefer it; it is all 
 taste, the work must be finished. 
 
 Silk Watering Machine. 
 
 This machine has three rollers, exactly like the fric- 
 tion calender, but much smaller, and may be turned by 
 a handle and cranks instead of steam ; some waterers pre- 
 fer cherry tree rollers for watering silks. The silks for 
 watering are put into the watering machine double, that 
 is, two breadths of silk are tacked together (not by the ends 
 or sides but on top of one another), and so they are put 
 through the machine, and when they come out that part, 
 the middle, that has not touched the machine is watered, 
 and that part that has, is glazed. The goodness or bad- 
 ness of the watering depends entirely on the quality of 
 the silk, the proper heating of the cylinder, and match- 
 ing the warp and wift of the silk. A small steel spring 
 is worked on the rollers under the silk while it is going 
 through them ; watering done without this spring is not 
 so good. 
 
 Moreen Watering Machine. 
 
 This machine has three rollers like the friction calen- 
 der, it has this difference, the hollow steel roller is cut 
 so as to exactly imitate watering, and when the heater 
 is put in and the work is passed through the rollers, it 
 comes out watered by the pressure of the other two rol- 
 lers and the heat of the steel roller. This also may be- 
 turned by hand or steam. 
 
 Moreen Striping Machine. 
 
 This machine has three rollers, but the hollow steel 
 roller is cut with one stripe of watering and one stripe 
 polished, one inch and three-quarters apart, that is to 
 
WOOLLEN DYEING. 205 
 
 say, the watered stripe is one inch and three-quarters 
 wide and the satin stripe is one inch and three-quarters 
 wide ; these stripes are cut round the roller thirty inches 
 wide. Moreen finished like this looks very well, and 
 imitates satin striped tabberett. This is worked like 
 those above with iron heaters for the cut steel roller. 
 
 Moreen, Utrecht Velvet, Cotton Velvet, Silk Velvet, and 
 Silk Embossing Machine. 
 
 This machine has three rollers like the other machine. 
 The steel roller is cut with a round flower or a leaf on it. 
 We have two calenderers at the west end, one has a 
 round scolloped flower, and the other a leaf pattern, the 
 flower has the preference. These patterns are cut round 
 the steel roller at proper distances, where the flower is 
 not the other part is polished, and is called the ground. 
 The patterns do not, of course, cover the roller. When 
 the work comes out of the machine finished, it has a 
 proportionate glazed ground, with a three and a half 
 or three inch flower on it. Also the silk embossing rol- 
 ler is very different to the moreen embossing roller. -It 
 is a very delicate affair, and would make but little im- 
 pression on moreens. This machine is worked exactly 
 like the others, bv steam or heaters. 
 
 Hydraulic or Common Hot Press for finishing Woollen 
 
 Fabrics, Shawls, fyc. 
 
 This press is made of well seasoned oak, sides, top, 
 and bottom, with a nut and screw, iron plates and press 
 papers ; there must be two sorts of press papers, one sort 
 plain and one sort glazed. The plain papers are for 
 pressing cloths, shawls, coburgs, and merinos, and the 
 glazed papers are for watering moreens and silks. There 
 is another method for watering moreens and silks. 
 When the work is cleaned, dyed, picked, brushed, and 
 ready for pressing, it is put on a long smooth board, and 
 a press paper is laid on the board, and a piece of cloth 
 
206 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 is smoothly laid on it, then a press paper is put on it, 
 then another piece of cloth on this paper, and so go on, 
 one paper and one cloth, until it is one foot high. Now put 
 it one side, and begin again as at first, and when there 
 is enough work in the papers to fill the press, begin to 
 do so. The iron plates are the size of the paper, a quar- 
 ter of an inch thick ; they are in two, sometimes in 
 three parts, for convenience of lifting about, and are 
 heated either in an oven made for the purpose, or on 
 top of a stove. A very good way, and a clean and cheap 
 one, is to have a common metal boiler for hot water in 
 the dye-house, and put the press plates into this boiler ; 
 get it on to a boil with the plates in it, and they are 
 ready for use. In a garment dyers, this method of heat- 
 ing press plates is very handy and cheap, for the water 
 is not soiled if the plates are kept clean and in a dry 
 place. The best method to keep three press plates and 
 boiler always clean, is to boil the plates in this iron boil- 
 er, and soap and ash for a couple of hours, then draw 
 the fire, and let the plates stop in the liquor in the cop- 
 per until it is cold, then get the plates out, scour them 
 well with a brush and soap, dry them, put them by in a 
 dry place, and they are fit for use ; do the same with 
 the metal boiler they were boiled in. 
 
 These iron plates when heated are put on the bed of 
 the press, and the first lot of press papers that has been 
 filled with work is put on them, and then on this first 
 lot is placed another layer of plates, and on these plates 
 another lot of press papers filled with work, then on top 
 of this a layer of plates, and so on, until the press is 
 filled ; it is then screwed down and left for the night, 
 and in the morning the papers are emptied and the work 
 shifted, that is, the part that has been over the edge of 
 the paper is now put into the papers, that is what pres- 
 sers call breaking the cutting, and when this is done the 
 work is put back into the press in the same way it was 
 put in at first, screwed down, and left for twelve hours, 
 then got out, folded and it is finished. 
 
 Moreens for watering are placed face to face, and put 
 
* WOOLLEN DYEING. 207 
 
 in glazed press papers, rilled exactly like the woollen 
 cloth papers, the plates are hotter, and the press is 
 screwed down much tighter ; these are also shifted. 
 Silks are also watered in this press by placing them face 
 to face like the moreen. This is the old method of 
 watering silks and moreens, and is still continued, but 
 it is not so good by any means as the watering that is 
 done by the cylinder calender. 
 
 A Cylinder to finish Merinos and Coburgs. 
 
 New pieces of merinos and Coburgs are spun and 
 wove from the wool, then dyed, pressed and finished ; 
 but for the one piece that is finished by the hot-press 
 there is a thousand done by the cylinder calender. 
 
 Ladies' merino and Coburg dresses, when taken apart, 
 are also hot pressed for a finish. 
 
 Shawls and scarfs of all sorts and colors, when cleaned 
 or dyed, are also hot pressed for a finish. Some dyers 
 clamp, pick, brush, and finish the dresses and shawls on 
 a pair of wooden rolls, in strong drill, or Suffolk hemp- 
 en sheets, by putting the breadths and pieces double in- 
 side the doubled sheet, and pinning the end of the 
 breadths, the body, and sleeves in proper shape, the 
 sheet is on one roller, and the end fastened on the oppo- 
 site one, and as the sheet is filled it is rolled on the 
 empty roller, and as it passes from one roll to the other 
 the sheet is pressed on a hollow iron pipe, with heaters 
 in it like an Italian iron, and this hollow polished iron 
 pipe is called a cylinder, and when the sheet is filled, it 
 is passed over the cylinder again from one roll to the 
 other, and when thoroughly dry the sheets are rolled off 
 the rollers, and the dresses taken out of the sheets as 
 finished, and are ready for the customer. 
 
 • Another and the most general method is — some dyers 
 damp, pick, and brush these dresses, and iron them on 
 the wrong side with the heaviest flat smoothing or hat- 
 ters' iron, and the face to the ironing blanket. Others 
 use box-irons, with a fine cloth or width of Persian be- 
 
208 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 tween the iron and the merino ; it takes away the ap- 
 pearance of the iron on the work, but is a slow process. 
 
 Fitch Calender to Moire Antique Silks. 
 
 Silks to be moire antique must be wove for that pur- 
 pose. Any sort of plain silk will not moire. It is done 
 in a pitch calender, and afterwards hot pressed in papers. 
 A pitch calender is in every respect, working it also, 
 like a mangle, with rollers, hempen sheets, and a board 
 bed ; but the friction calender is five times as large, and 
 is worked by steam or horse power. It is not a new in- 
 vention, it is as old as time, and I am sure the mangle 
 is a copy of it. However, a mangle is a small friction 
 calender. 
 
 When silks are to be moired, they are doubled in two, 
 that is what is called faced, the sheet is spread out, and 
 a couple of turns of it put on the roll ; now the silk is 
 put on the sheet and plaited, nipped in equal distances 
 across the width and length of the silk. As this pro- 
 cess is going on, the sheet and the silk is rolled on. the 
 roller, and when the roller is full, it is put under the 
 calender, and another roller filled and put under the cal- 
 ender, it is now put in motion, and well worked back- 
 ward and forward, the silk in the sheets on rollers under 
 it. When this is done the calender is stopped, th£ rolls 
 taken out and unfolded ; the silk is now in an awfully 
 pinched state. It is now folded as smooth as possible 
 and put between papers and hot pressed, shifted and 
 pressed again, then taken out of the papers, folded, 
 nicely papered, and sent to the customer finished. 
 
COTTON DYEING. 209 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 THE ART OF DYEING AND SCOURING. 
 
 Cotton in its Natural State. 
 
 Cotton is inclosed in a shell or a pod that grows on a 
 tree called the cotton tree that is found in America, the 
 Indies, Persia, and Egypt. In some countries the pod 
 ripens annually, in others every two or three years. The 
 pod must be broken to take the cotton out of it, which 
 is of a w T oolly or downy substance, and weighs about an 
 ounce. It is of a drab color, and has much vegetable 
 oil, which makes it very dangerous from its inflammable 
 nature. Gun cotton is made from it and diluted oil of 
 vitriol. It is porous like wool ; but the pores are not 
 large or globular as in wool — they are flat and hard to 
 open, and that is the reason of the difficulty in dyeing. 
 There are many different growths and as many different 
 sorts, which will be seen by my list of prices at the end 
 of this book. At the time it was introduced into Eng- 
 land it was talked of quite as much as the gold disco- 
 veries of the present day. It was known in this country 
 for centuries before we worked it ; but ever since we 
 began to do that, we have not been idle. We may 
 thank the Dutch for the introduction of calico printing. 
 Sir Robert Peel's great grandmother was the first woman 
 that ever went to church in England with a printed cot- 
 ton dress on, and that dress was a present to her from 
 Holland, and was the making of Lancashire. Chat Moss 
 would never have been what it is but for that dress. 
 However, a hint is never thrown away on a Lancashire- 
 man or a Yorkshireman, and they took it. See now the 
 result — riches 'and prosperity. The cotton tree made 
 14 
 
210 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 England and America industrious, from the very simple 
 cause of having to work hard, both in body and mind, 
 to make it productive of value ; while the Spaniards, by 
 getting gold without having to work hard for it, became 
 idle and degenerate. 
 
 « 
 To Dye Cotton Pale Blue or Chemic Blue. 
 
 Cotton goods for pale blue must be white, pink or 
 pale blue ; they are very well cleaned and boiled off in 
 soap and soda ; and if a bad white, must be bleached ; 
 and if bleached, must be well rinsed and have a strong 
 hot ash to take the oxy-muriate out of them, for if there 
 were only a trifle of it left in them, it would bleach the 
 blue you dyed them with out of them. In the drying, 
 when you give it the ash, you must rinse the ash 
 out of it, or it will be almost as bad as the lime. Give 
 one cold water out of the ash, and another cold water to 
 taste pretty sharp of common sour ; give it ten minutes' 
 good handling in this, and give it a cold water out of 
 it, and it is ready for dyeing. 
 
 "We will suppose there are thirty yards of cotton, and 
 we will begin by scalding a pint of Saxon blue (see page 
 60), and half fill a long cask that will hold about six 
 pails of clean water ; put the scalded blue in this, and have 
 a clean stick, a lump of chalk, and a knife ; scrape the 
 chalk in the cask with the blue in it, and as you go on 
 scraping the chalk in, keep stirring it with a stick until 
 you have neutralized it — do not make it flat but rather 
 sharp — very little. Put in as much melted alum as will 
 make it taste, and leave it for the night, and hang up the 
 cottons to dry ; if you do not like the blue in the morn- 
 ing do not use it, or you will have the work gray ; give 
 it a good stirring, and see if it is as you wish ; if it is, 
 leave it for three or four days without touching it during 
 that time. Now it is fit for use. Turn four pails of it 
 into a kettle, and make it taste slightly with a little 
 tartaric acid, and a little alum ; stir it well, and leave it 
 while you make a pound and a half of the best starch in 
 
COTTON DYEING. 211 
 
 a little copper kettle, with a pail of boiling water; put 
 this starch kettle to swim in a boiling copper ; stir it 
 well for five minutes, and put a pailful of blue on the 
 top of the starch while swimming in the boiling copper; 
 stir it well until it incorporates with the white starch, 
 and then take it out of the copper, and if the starch ket- 
 tle holds four pails fill it up out of the blue in the kettle. 
 Now have the small clean punching tub and strain the 
 starch and blue into it, and put the now dry white cot- 
 tons into it ; and dye them pale Saxon or chemic blue. 
 Handle them in this for twenty minutes, and when they 
 are an even blue all over, wring them up and hang them 
 in a place where they will be soon dry, to return them again 
 in the morning without anything being added to the 
 blue liquor. Handle the blues well in this until they 
 are well wetted out, wring up very gently, fold up and 
 put them in a dry clean blanket to regulate for a couple 
 of hours, and hang them up with care, and when they 
 are dry have them glazed, and they are done. The blue 
 you used to dye these is thrown into the old cotton 
 green liquor, and that left in the kettle thrown in the 
 blue tub ; fill up the blue tub with clean water, add a 
 little fresh blue to it, and it will be ready in a couple of 
 days to dye another lot of Saxon blues. 
 
 Remarks. — This may appear a long process, but I had 
 to get everything ready from the lirst ; the next that I 
 would have to dye this way I have only to make my 
 starch, turn the blue into it, and go on dyeing, my pre- 
 paration being already prepared. 
 
 N. B. — I have two more lots of blues that I intend to 
 dye two different ways. 
 
 Another way to Dye Cotton Saxon Blue, 
 
 Clean and dry this thirty yards of cotton for blue, as 
 you did the other lot, and scald half a pint of blue in 
 one pail of water, and put the blue blankets in it; lift 
 the kettle in the boiling copper, give the sheets a turn, 
 and leave them to suck in the blue, while you mix up a 
 
212 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 pound and a half of the best starch, in very little clean 
 water ; put it by, and take the kettle out of the copper, 
 with the blue blankets in it, and put them to drain over 
 the kettle. Put in the blue liquor half a teacupful of 
 alum, and two ounces of tartaric acid ; stir them well, 
 and lift the kettle into the copper ; after the kettle has 
 been in the copper ten minutes, put in the starch you 
 have mixed, stir it well and leave it while you clean a 
 small puncher-tub and sieve to strain it through. Now 
 take the kettle out of the copper, and let it swim in a 
 tub of cold water until it cools, and when it is cold 
 enough, strain it through the sieve into the tub, and dye 
 your blues in it. When they are well wetted out in 
 this blue liquor, which will occupy twenty minutes, get 
 them up, wring, and dry them in a hot room, and in the 
 morning, when they are dry, return them again in the 
 blue liquor ; work them well in this for twenty minutes, 
 and wring them up, and dry them, and when dry have 
 them friction-calendered. 
 
 Remarks. — This is an easier and better way to dye 
 blue than killing the blue with whiting or chalk. It 
 took a pint of neat Saxon blue to dye this work with 
 chalk, besides the time it took killing it, and having to 
 wait for two or three days, whereas in the blanket blue, 
 I dyed them in about two hours. 
 
 Another way to Dye Cotton Saxon Blue. 
 
 Your cotton being cleaned and dry and all ready, 
 make a pound and a half of the best starch in three pails 
 of boiling water, put it to swim in the boiling copper, 
 and put in it half a teacupful of ground alum, two' 
 ounces of tartaric acid, and half a teacupful of Ballsall- 
 heath powder blue (see page 60); stir all these well in 
 the kettle, take it out of the copper, and put it in a tub 
 of cold water to cool, and when cool enough strain it 
 over in a clean tub and handle the work in it, and dye 
 it a pale blue ; give it twenty minutes in this, wring it 
 
COTTON DYEING. 213 
 
 up, and dry it in a hot room, and when dry return it as 
 you did the other blues, and send it to be finished. 
 
 Remarks. — This is the cheapest and easiest way, be- 
 sides it produces a much brighter and better color. 
 
 To Dye Cotton Furniture Lining to imitate Dark Blue 
 dyed in an Indigo Vat. 
 
 Clean, rinse, spirit, and give it a cold water out of 
 spirits ; now dye it pink with safflower ;* it must be a 
 full pink; wring it up out of a sharpish tartar as dry as 
 you can, and dye it a pale blue with the blue of any of 
 the three blues above that you like to use, no matter 
 which, and when dry put one ounce of tartaric acid in 
 the liquor before you put the work back ; handle this 
 well for half an hour, and wring it up carefully, and let 
 it lie in a clean dry blanket for a couple of hours, to 
 regulate before you hang it up to dry, and when dry, 
 send it to be calendered or glazed. Mr. Baverstock, of 
 Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, friction-calenders cot- 
 ton goods to look as stiff and glossy as new. 
 
 Manufacture of the best Starch. 
 
 Starch is a very important article to the dyer, without 
 it in some shape he could not finish his work. In pre- 
 paring starch in the manufacture the grain is steeped 
 in water until it becomes soft; it is then put into 
 coarse linen bags, which are pressed in vats of water, a 
 milky juice exudes, and the starch falls to the bottom 
 of the vessel ; the vats are then allowed to remain un- 
 disturbed for some time, by which the supernatant liquid 
 undergoes a slight fermentation and becomes sour ; this 
 is an essential part of the process, since the acid thus 
 formed dissolves some of the impurities in the deposited 
 starch ; the sediment is then collected, washed, and 
 dried in a moderate heat, during which it splits in the 
 columnar fragments, which we see in the papers. 
 
 * See description of Safflower. 
 
214 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 The pure starch is not soluble in water unless when 
 heated to 160°, and if the temperature be raised to 180°, 
 the solution coagulates into a thick transparent jelly. 
 This fact is one of great practical importance, and will 
 suggest to the operator the necessity of regulating the 
 heat in all those processes in which the perfect solution 
 of this principle is required; the neglect of this pre- 
 caution has frequently proved a source of loss of time 
 and vexation to the dyer.— From 'Paris's Chemistry,' 
 see page 485. 
 
 Directions to make Starch from Flour, 
 
 Have your copper boiling with clean water, and scour 
 out a small kettle, put a quartern of the best flour in it, 
 and beat with a little clean water until it becomes a 
 thick liquid, there must be no lumps in it. When ready 
 pour into the kettle two pails of boiling water, well 
 stirring it all the time, and leave the kettle to swim for 
 half an hour in the boiling copper ; then get it out and 
 use it. This is what the dyers call the best flour starch. 
 I think it necessary as we use so much flour, and this 
 makes the best starch, to compare the strength of both ; 
 and I find that one quartern of the best flour will stiffen 
 as much cotton goods as three pounds of the best starch. 
 All cotton goods ought to have the best starch, and all 
 printed furniture with white grounds, particularly those 
 that are made up, such as chair and sofa covers. The 
 best starch is made exactly the way we make the flour 
 starch. 
 
 To make a Cotton Blue Vat. 
 
 The cotton blue vat is to be made three feet wide, four 
 feet long, and five feet deep ; the bricks to be laid on the 
 flat. One part sand, one part cement, is to be used in- 
 stead of mortar, and plastered with the same inside and 
 out. It must be made in the beginning of summer, and 
 left to dry for a couple of months ; at the end of that 
 
COTTON DYEING. 215 
 
 time it will be cracked all over — you must not mind that; 
 now all these slight cracks or slits are to be filled up 
 with two parts of cement, and one part sand, and directly 
 after that, it is to get a coat of sand and cement a quarter 
 of an inch thick all over, inside and out. In the building 
 of it there must be pieces of iron hooping all round it. 
 built in about a foot from the top. There is to be a 
 yellow deal frame all round it, four inches wide and two 
 inches thick. The top of the vat is to have a layer of 
 sand and cement, mixed all round it ; the frame is to be 
 laid on with this, well fastened down with the iron loop- 
 holes in the hoops, and good strong nails. It should be 
 sunk about two feet in the ground, for a man cannot 
 work a vessel five feet high, particularly in dyeing old 
 work fast blue, for it is not put on a frame as the new 
 work is, but 'it is put into the vat and worked under the 
 liquor by the dyer, his arms being up to the elbows 
 under the liquor all the time the work is in the vat, 
 which is generally twenty minutes. Tnree feet from 
 the ground is high enough for a man to work at a vat. 
 There must be a frame, hoop, rake, and lid, as in the 
 woad vat. It was this sort of vat where I was working 
 some years ago ; I thought it a clumsy affair, but the 
 master told me it never leaked, and that everv time the 
 drugs were put in it, it made it stronger. The wooden 
 vats take up nearly as much room, cost quite as much 
 in making, and have to be generally repaired once a 
 year. 
 
 If the dyer should prefer a wooden vat, any brewer 
 will tell him where a vat maker resides. A slate vat 
 will do exceedingly well, but it must be sunk in the 
 ground, and well grouted in with hot lime and the earth 
 that is taken out of the hole; then you do not trust to 
 the irons that fasten it, and it will never leak or want 
 repair. 
 
 To Set a Cotton Blue Vat. 
 
 Clean out a little copper that will hold five or six pails 
 of water, fill it up and make it boil ; slacken fifteen 
 
216 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 pounds of lime in a clean tub, and when slackened put 
 two pails of clean water on it, rake it well and leave it; 
 now put five pounds of ground indigo into a clean cop- 
 per kettle; mix it as you would flour with boiling water, 
 into a thick liquid and leave it. Take four pails of boiling 
 water, and pour it on the top of twenty pounds of cop- 
 peras in a clean kettle ; stir this well, and cover it over, 
 so that the gas in the copperas does not escape. 
 
 Now put in the little copper to the two pails of water 
 that is in it, a bowlful of bran, and eight pounds of 
 pearlash ; stir this well till it is melted, and put in one- 
 half the lime, well stirred up before you turn it over ; 
 now put into it all the indigo mixed in the kettle, fill 
 up to within one pail of the top, and boil these well for 
 one hour, never leaving the copper lest it might boil 
 over, well stirring it with a clean stick all the time. 
 When the hour is up draw the fire completely from 
 under the copper, and fill up the copper with the re- 
 mainder of the lime. Slacken eight pounds of lime in 
 the tub, and put two pails of water on it, stir it up and 
 leave it; have a large tub well cleaned out, and put the 
 lime with the copperas into the kettle, and the indigo 
 ash and lime you have just boiled up in the little 
 copper ; rinse all the vessels into the tub ; rake this up 
 and leave it. 
 
 This new blue vat will hold sixty pails of water; put 
 forty pails in now, and leave it until the next morning; 
 in the morning rake your tub with the materials for the 
 blue vat in it well ; and turn it over directly into the 
 vat, and rake it up well; rinse the tub into the vat, keep 
 on raking for half an hour, and leave it covered over 
 until the evening, and then rake it well, fill it up with 
 clean water, and it will be ready to work in a few days. 
 Wet out your work before you put it in the vat. 
 
 Another Method to Set a Cotton Blue Vat. 
 
 Clean out a tub that will hold about ten pails of water, 
 slacken one bushel of lime into it, and cover it over 
 
COTTON DYEING. 217 
 
 while it is slackening ; put six pounds of ground indigo 
 in a kettle and mix it into a liquid paste with clean hot 
 water, and then put four pails of boiling water over it, 
 well stir it, cover it over, and leave it. Now have an- 
 other clean kettle, and put twenty pounds of copperas 
 in it ; four pails of boiling water on this ; stir it well 
 with a clean stick, cover it over, and leave it. Put four 
 pails of water on the top of the lime that is slackening, 
 rake it up well, and now put in the melted copperas 
 out of the kettle ; rake it up well, and now put in the 
 indigo ; stir it well, and cover it over, and leave it for 
 a couple of days, stirring it occasionally. When it is 
 ready to turn over, half fill this new blue vat. The in- 
 structions to turn all material that is in the tub, to 
 make the blue vat, are the same. Rake it well, and 
 while you are raking it fill it up with clean water, and 
 continue raking it for an hour ; cover it over, and you 
 may use it the next day. 
 
 Your furniture lining is to be cleaned in the same man- 
 ner as the pale blues were for dyeing, but not dyed. 
 Open out your work in lots of six or seven yards each ; 
 gather one lot up by the selvage, hold it tight in one hand, 
 lift your hand over your head, go to the vat and drop 
 the selvage end you have now hold of straight into the 
 vat, your hand dropping with the work ; when your 
 hand goes under the liquor, still holding the work tight, 
 open it all of a sudden, and thrust the disengaged arm 
 gently under the cotton to prevent it from dropping on 
 the net. Now look to the clock, and give the work ten 
 minutes ; do not lift it up in the liquor until you are 
 ready to take it out. While you are abiding your time, 
 keep handling them with your arms spread out under 
 the liquor, and taking hold of an opposite selvage with 
 each hand throw it from you until you come to the end, 
 and then bring it back to you. When the ten minutes 
 are up, gather it up by the selvage, with both hands un- 
 der the liquor, lift it up, and give it a very quick wring ; 
 come away from the vat, and expose it with all expedi- 
 tion to the air, and it is instantly changed to blue. Five 
 
218 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 men can work at the vat at the same time — that is, one 
 man for each end and two for the sides, and one man 
 rinsing ; that would be twenty-four yards for every half 
 hour. There is a frame for new pieces that I have de- 
 scribed in the woad vat for woollens (see page 190); 
 w 7 hen all the work is through the vat the net is drawn 
 out, the vat is raked, covered over and left ready, in a 
 day or two for working again. When a new vat is 
 worked five or six times, it is helped with about a quar- 
 ter of the same materials it took to make a new one. 
 
 'When the cottons are all dyed, we give them a water, 
 and then a common sour, to take the lime out of the 
 w 7 ork and clear it ; a couple of warm waters after the 
 sour, starch it, and hang it to dry,- and when dry, take 
 it down, fold it, and send it to the glazers or calenderers, 
 and it is as good as new. This is a color that never 
 washes out. 
 
 To Dye Cotton Dark Blue with Nit rid of Iron, 
 
 This cotton furniture lining, or other cotton goods, 
 must be cleaned the same as the other blues, and not 
 dried. For the above thirty yards when white put in a 
 clean tub six pails of clean hot water, and two pints of 
 nitric! of iron ; handle them well in this for half an hour, 
 get them up, rinse them, and melt half a pound of prus- 
 siate ; have a small tub, and put six pails of warm 
 water in it, and half a pint of spirits of salts ; handle the 
 work well in this, the prussiate, t for twenty minutes ; 
 wring it out of this, and put it in the nitrid of iron 
 again ; give it twenty minutes, wring it out, rinse it, 
 and put in the prussiate again, and so go on repeating 
 it from one to the other, until it is made the blue wanted, 
 no matter how dark ; when it is dyed enough, take it 
 out of the nitrid of iron, and rinse it in two clean waters, 
 stiffen it in the best starch, dry it, and return it into the 
 starch when dry, well open, and handle it, wring it up, 
 dry it, and have it calendered. 
 
 Remarks. — This is a very pretty blue, but a very tire- 
 
COTTON DYEING. 219 
 
 some color to dye ; although a very pretty blue there is 
 no indigo in it ; the blue is prussiate of potash, a dye 
 which I will presently give a short account of. 
 
 To Dye two yards of Pale Blue Cotton, ten yards of Yellow 
 Cotton, ten yards of Drab Cotton, Green, in the same 
 Dye Liquors, together. 
 
 Clean all these together in one punching tub, and boil 
 them all off in one copper of strong ash and soap ; they 
 must boil well in the liquor for one hour, and they are 
 to be handled well with a stick, and kept under the 
 liquor all the time. Now get out of the copper into a 
 thin soap liquor, and punch them well in this to take 
 the soap and dirt left in them, wring them well out of 
 this liquor, and make a strong sour in a kettle with six 
 pails of warm water, and handle them well in this for 
 twenty minutes; now get them up and give them three 
 clean cold waters, and boil up fourteen pounds of old 
 fustic chips in a copper that will hold six pails of water, 
 twice, that is the first and second boil is to go into one 
 clean tub together, and when you are boiling the fustic, 
 put one pound of soda in the first boil with the chips ; 
 this is to answer two purposes, that is, to draw the color 
 out of the chips, and if there is any of the spirit re- 
 maining in the cotton it will draw it out of them ; the 
 two boils are to be passed through a sieve into the tub. 
 Take all the cottons in one lot and handle them well 
 with a stick into the fustic liquor, neat as it is, and 
 handle them well in for half an hour ; tell your man to 
 clean the copper, and fill it with clean water, and get it 
 on to a boil, and save the chips. When the half hour 
 is up have another tub and put eight pails of clean 
 w 7 ater in it, and melt two pounds of ground alum, and 
 put it in the water in the tub. Now take the work up 
 out of the fustic liquor, and handle it well in the alum 
 liquor for twenty minutes ; wring it out and give it one 
 clean cold water, and put it back in the fustic liquor 
 again, handle it well in this iiquor for five minutes, and 
 
220 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 leave it and look after the starch and blue which is to 
 follow. 
 
 Have two pounds of the best starch, and mix it in a 
 small float in a clean pail, and draw off in boiling water 
 as much blue from the blue blankets as you did to dye 
 the thirty yards of pale blue cotton. Now put your ket- 
 tle to swim in the boiling copper, and put your starch 
 in it ; stir it well and leave it, and take up those for 
 green out of the fustic, and throw the alum and fustic 
 away ; take the blue kettle out of the copper, and put a 
 teacupful of ground alum in it, and half a teacupful of 
 tartaric acid, and cool it ; strain into a clean tub, and 
 handle the work in for twenty minutes, and wring it and 
 hang it up to dry in a hot stove room, so that it will be 
 dry enough to take down in the morning, and return it 
 again in the same blue liquor ; handle it well in this, 
 wring it up and fold it for a couple of hours in a sheet, 
 hang it up to dry, and when dry sort the three different 
 lots, and send them separately to be glazed or calendered, 
 no matter which, as they will look well either way. 
 
 Remarks. — Dyers in general save the old green liquor, 
 but do not think it worth saving w T hen the work is re- 
 turned ; the reason of my returning the work is that 
 all greens, blues, and reds improve in cloth, color, and 
 stiffness by so doing. They finish soft if they are not 
 returned. 
 
 To Clean and Re-dye forty yards of Green Cotton Lining. 
 
 This must be cleaned well and all the old color boiled 
 off it in strong ash, and spirited sharply in six pails of 
 water, in a kettle, and three cold waters after the spirits. 
 Boil up a pail and a half of old fustic chips, with soda 
 in it twice, through a sieve, into a clean tub ; get it in 
 this fustic liquor, melt two pounds of ground alum, give 
 it time in the alum ; get it up, rinse and return it in the 
 fustic. Make the blue and starch in the same manner, 
 and two pounds of the best starch will do for this. Blue 
 it after the yellow ; dry it and return it in the blue ; 
 
COTTON DYEING. 221 
 
 when dry it is ready for glazing. If we want it a full 
 green we put it through the alum and fustic twice; by 
 doing so you will take up all the fustic. Pale green is 
 done by letting it follow from first to last in these liquors. 
 When the cottons are for a bluish or very pale green, 
 we make (suppose for twenty yards) a pound of the best 
 starch in a pail of boiling water, and put the kettle to 
 swim in the copper; then put in two bowlsful of killed 
 Saxon blue out of the blue that was killed with chalk, 
 and three bowls of boiled fustic liquor ; if you have no 
 fustic liquor handy, boil up a pound of old fustic chips, 
 in four quarts of clean water — no soda in it, and strain 
 into the starch blue. Now put a tablespoonful of alum 
 in, and the same of tartaric acid, and handle them in 
 this liquor for ten minutes ; wring it up and dry it, and 
 when dry return it again in the same liquor; give it 
 twenty minutes in this liquor, and wring it up, fold it, 
 and hang it up. There are some re-dyed green cottons 
 that do not want cleaning ; when that is the case, we 
 put them in the old green liquor cotton tub, dry as they 
 come in, handle them well in this, and leave them for 
 three or four days, turning them over every day ; wring 
 them well out of this liquor, and dry them, and when 
 dry, make up a clean starch, fustic, and blue liquor, al- 
 lowing one pound of starch for twenty yards, two bowls 
 of blue liquor, and three bowls of fustic liquor, with a 
 little alum and acid ; put them through this, rinse, and 
 dry them, and they are done. 
 
 To Dye twenty yards of Cotton Furniture Yellow. 
 
 Cotton to be dyed yellow, amber, or orange, must be 
 well cleaned and boiled off in ash and soap, and rinsed 
 from the soap. For this twenty yards of cotton lining 
 for yellow, clean out a tub and put one pound of alum 
 in it, and two ounces of blue stone, and eight pails of 
 water ; handle it well in this preparation and leave it 
 for three or four hours, and boil up half a bundle of weld 
 in five pails of water, with one pound of soda in it, twice ; 
 
222 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 pass this through a sieve into a clean tub ; get up the 
 cottons for yellow out of the preparation, and rinse in 
 two clean cold waters, and handle them well in the. weld 
 liquor for half an hour; if they are the yellow you re- 
 quire them, take them out, rinse, starch, and dry them ; 
 if they are not dark enough, put them through the pre- 
 paration again for twenty minutes, take them out, rinse, 
 and return them into the weld liquor, and they require 
 twenty minutes in it. By this time they will be the 
 usual yellow that weld by itself makes on cotton ; get 
 them up, rinse, starch, and hang up in a warm room, 
 and when dry have them glazed. 
 
 Remarks. — These are considered the finest yellow that 
 are dyed with any yellow drug. Some dyers clean them 
 well in clean soap liquors, after they are dyed, and wring 
 them out of a warm soap liquor, dry them, and stiffen 
 them when dry. Sometimes we work a little turmeric 
 in with the weld, but it all depends on the pattern you 
 have with the work. 
 
 Second Method to Dye the above. 
 
 Put one pail of old fustic chips into a copper that will 
 hold five pails of water, and one pound of soda; boil' 
 well for half an hour, turn this over into a clean tub 
 through a sieve, and boil it well for half an hour again ; 
 now turn this over, and tell the man to clean the copper 
 and get it on to a boil, while you go on by handling the 
 cottons well in this fustic liquor, boiling hot, with a clean 
 stick, for half an hour. Melt one pound of ground alum, 
 in eight pails of water ; take the cottons up out of the 
 fustic and handle them in the alum for twenty minutes ; 
 get up and rinse in two cold waters, and return them in 
 the fustic for twenty minutes longer, and if they are full 
 enough, get them up, rinse, and starch them ; if not, 
 run them through the alum for ten minutes, get them 
 up, rinse in a couple of waters, and return them in the 
 fustic liquor for twenty minutes, and they are done. 
 
 Flour starch will do very well to stiffen this work ; 
 
COTTON DYEING. 223 
 
 the reader will please to notice that these colors do not 
 require the best starch — flour starch is best for them 
 always. 
 
 Third Method to Dye the above. 
 
 Have a clean tub, and half fill it with boiling hot 
 water, say about eight pails, put in this one pound of 
 alum, and one pint of bark spirits; handle the cottons 
 well in this liquor for twenty minutes, and leave them 
 while you put two pounds of North American quercit- 
 ron bark in a small copper in five pails of water ; boil 
 it well, and strain it over into a clean tub, and give the 
 bark another boil, and turn it over again in the same 
 liquor. Now take up the work out of the alum, and 
 rinse it in two clean waters, and handle it in the bark 
 liquor, scalding hot for twenty minutes ; take it up, and 
 return it in the alum for twenty minutes, get it up, rinse 
 it, and return it into the bark liquor for twenty minutes 
 longer. Throw away the alum and bark liquors, and 
 rinse the work well in three or four clean waters, and 
 starch it, hang it up to dry, and when dry, have it glazed. 
 
 Remarks. — This is the bark Mr. Bancroft found out 
 in his experiments on coloring matters ; he was very proud 
 of his discovery, and he had a right to be, for there is 
 not one fault in it ; with the commonest attention in the 
 rinsing, it is sure to turn out well. It will work with 
 indigo or cochineal, and although it is as cheap as young 
 fustic, it is not much used. 
 
 Fourth Method to Dye the above. 
 
 These cotton furniture linings are boiled off first in 
 soap and soda, and well spirited out of a thin liquor of 
 soap, rinsed, and put on the horse to drain, ready for 
 dyeing. Now dye them. Have a copper that will hold 
 twelve pails of water ; scour it out well, and fill it with 
 clean water ; make it boil, damp the fire well down ; now 
 put in the copper for the thirty yards two pounds of tur- 
 
224 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 meric, stir it well for five minutes ; now open out your 
 work, and put it in the copper, and handle it well all 
 the time with a clean stick ; tell your man to make three 
 parts of a quartern of flour into starch in a pail and a 
 half of water, to stiffen it. Now your half-hour is up ; 
 take up the yellows out of the turmeric copper, and make 
 it taste with sour, not too sharp. Put the work back in 
 the turmeric, and handle it well in it for ten minutes ; 
 get it up, and rinse it in two clean waters, with a little 
 sour in them ; wring it well out of the last water, starch 
 it, and dry it, and when dry return it, and before you 
 return it, put an ounce of tartaric acid in the starch, 
 scalded in a teacupful of water ; handle the yellows well 
 in this same second starching, wring them up, fold, and 
 hang up to dry, and they are done. 
 
 Remarks. — This is a very ready way of dyeing or re- 
 dyeing these cotton goods — the work wants no prepa- 
 ration, no boiling of drugs twice to get the dye-stuff out 
 of them; it is only to put the turmeric in the copper, 
 and handle in the work, and you have yellow at once — 
 any depth you like — it all depends on how much tur- 
 meric you put in the copper; if you put in little, you 
 will have a light color, and so on. There is a little 
 judgment required in the starching, but all I require of 
 you is to abide by my instructions. 
 
 To Dye ten yards of Cotton Buff, ten yards of Cotton Leg- 
 horn, and ten yards of Cotton Amber. 
 
 The gottons to be dyed this color must be light, and 
 well cleaned before you begin them ; they need not be 
 boiled off in soap, for they will be dyed in soap, in a 
 boiling copper, that will take them one at a time. Boil 
 up half a pound of annotto in two quarts of water, *and 
 two ounces of pearlash in it, and put it convenient to 
 you. Now clean out a small copper that will hold five 
 or six pails of water, and make it boil, and begin dyeing 
 the buff first ; put in your copper one pint of the boiled 
 annotto, one pound of the potash, one bowlful of the 
 
COTTON DYEING. 225 
 
 neat melted soap, so as to make a strong soap liquor ; 
 now take the buff first in the copper, and boil it well 
 for full twenty minutes. Tell your man to make you a 
 hot thin soap liquor in a small tub; take this out, put 
 it in the thin liquor, handle it well in, and give it to be 
 rinsed, and then give it a thin liquor of fustic, and put 
 on a clean horse. Now take the leghorn and give it 
 half a pint of the annotto ; put in the copper and boil it 
 well for twenty minutes, put it in the thin liquor, get it 
 up, and give it to your man to rinse; tell him to make 
 the fustic that he dyed the buffs in taste sharp with sour, 
 and handle the leghorn in it for ten minutes. Get it 
 up, and throw the liquor away. Give it another weak 
 fustic cold for twenty minutes ; get it up, and put it on 
 a clean horse (not near the buffs). The next color is the 
 amber. Put half a pint of annotto in the copper ; put 
 in the cottons for amber, and boil them well in this 
 for half an hour. Put them in your thin liquor, handle 
 them well in this ; give them to your man to rinse, and 
 put on the horse to drain. Now put all the annotto into 
 the copper, and give it a good boiling ; put also a little 
 more soap in it, as it is rather flat with the work that 
 has gone through it. Then damp the fire, and turn the 
 copper over into one of the puncher tubs to, dye a dozen 
 yards of old rich fashionable prints, with a white ground 
 buff. Tell your man to scour the copper well, fill it up, 
 get it on to a boil, and make a quartern of flour into 
 starch while you clean and dye the print. Begin the 
 print by cleaning it well, and then dyeing it in the an- 
 notto that is in the tub; it must not be more than hand 
 heat for the prints. Having dyed the white ground of 
 this print buff in this liquor, give it the annotto thin 
 liquor, rinse it, give it a couple of bowls of fustic in a 
 clean kettle, and cold water. Wring up the print, and 
 proceed with the starching. Starch them in different 
 lots, beginning with the buff first. When all are 
 starched, send your man to hang up what is stiffened, 
 while you put half a pound of turmeric in the little cop- 
 per, fill it with scalding water, and dye the amber. Put 
 15 
 
2*26 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 the amber in this, and handle it well in it for twenty- 
 minutes. Get it up, and put in the copper a little sour, 
 so as to make it taste, and return the work. Give it 
 ten minutes in this, and get it up, rinse,' starch, and 
 return it. When dry, all these lots are dyed. 
 
 To Dye Cotton Buff with Nitrate of Iron. 
 
 You must have this work cleaned, and all ready for 
 dyeing, on a peg, and six clean vessels that will hold six 
 pails of water each ; put six pails of warm water in a 
 clean kettle or tub, and put in it one pint of nitrate of 
 iron ; handle the cottons in this iron liquor for ten min- 
 utes : wring it up out of this liquor, give it two clean 
 waters, put it to drain, and make up six pails of clean 
 warm water, in a clean vessel ; put in it half a pound 
 of ash, and handle it well in this for ten minutes ; now 
 get it up, and give it two clean waters (not the rinsing 
 waters after the nitrate of iron, but two separate clean 
 waters), and return it in the iron for ten minutes; get 
 it up, rinse it, and return it in the ash for ten minutes, 
 and rinse it out of this ; stiffen it in flour starch, dry, 
 finish it, and it is done. 
 
 Remarks. — This is one of the easiest, as well as the 
 fastest colors that is dyed ; if the work is wanted .very 
 dark buff, it only requires to return it in the iron, rinse, 
 ash, and rinse, without making any addition of drugs, 
 until you make it as dark as you like ; it will be a strong 
 color. 
 
 To Dye ten yards of Cotton Furniture Nankeen. 
 
 Slack four pounds of lime, fresh as it comes from the 
 kiln, then put it in a clean vessel, and put ten pails of 
 clean water on it ; then let it settle for a day or two, 
 until it is transparent clean water, that you can see at 
 the bottom of the tub, a white sediment ; above this 
 sediment is the lime-water, and that is what you want 
 to make use of, and in taking the water off, you must 
 
COTTON DYEING. 227 
 
 I 
 
 riot disturb the bottom, or you will spoil the buffs. Now 
 begin and dye your work by putting six pails of cold 
 water in a clean vessel, and melt *one pound of copperas 
 in scalding water, in a stone jug; stir it well, and put 
 it in the # clean water, and handle your work well in this 
 for ten minutes, giving it two clean waters after this, 
 and put it on a clean peg to drain. Now have a clean 
 vessel, and take six pails out of the ten you have of 
 lime-water. You must not dip a vessel of any sort into 
 the lime tub, but you must have a spigot, and draw off 
 by that means six pails of it ; the hole must be three 
 pails above the bottom. Now hammer your spigot in, 
 and put in more lime, fill it up, cover it over, and it is 
 ready for use at any time you may want it, and this is 
 what we call the lime tub. Now the lime-water is 
 drawn off clear, handle your work in it for ten minutes, 
 get it up, and rinse it in two clean waters, and handle* 
 it in the copperas again for ten minutes ; get it up, rinse 
 it, and lime it a second time; rinse it, and copperas it 
 again ; rinse it, give it a sour in clean water, and a water 
 after the sour; starch it, dry, and finish it, and it is done. 
 Remarks. — This is a simple and cheap way to dye 
 cotton nankeen color — spirits will not discharge it, and 
 the more it is washed in soap, or boiled in it, the stronger 
 the color will be. If the cotton dyed this way is intend- 
 ed for trousers or dresses, I would recommend them to 
 be well boiled off in soap, rinsed, and taken out of a 
 weak starch, dry, and finish them, but there is no occa- 
 sion for furniture, lining to be done so. 
 
 To Draw old Colors out of Cotton, and make them White 
 with Oxy-muriate of Lime. 
 
 If the cottons are a bad white, blue, green, buff, or 
 any other color, intended for white, they must be cleaned 
 well in soap and soda, and well boiled off in strong ash 
 and soap, for this will let loose the old bodies, as well 
 as clean them ; and when they are done so, they are not 
 so tried in the bleaching as they otherwise would be. 
 
228 loye's dyer and scourer. 
 
 Now as blues, buffs, and greens, are the most difficult 
 to make white, I will begin and bleach ten yards of each 
 of the three colors. Clean out a tub that will hold 
 twelve pails, and put four pounds of oxy-muriate of 
 lime in the tub ; have a clean stick, and put five pails 
 of boiling water in the tub, well stirring it all the time 
 you are putting the water in, to break the lumps. Now 
 put five pails of cold water on this, and handle the three 
 lots in the oxy-muriate as it is, for half an hour; now 
 you will see them gradually, but not effectually, coming 
 off. Perhaps they may want a few minutes longer in 
 it, if so, keep them in it, they cannot hurt. Get them 
 up on a peg, and put in the oxy-muriate half a teacup- 
 ful of oil of vitriol ; now put the work in directly, and 
 handle it well for ten minutes ; now take it and examine 
 it to see if it is all of one clear white, which it is most 
 likely to be; if not, give it a little more time, get it up, 
 and rinse it well in three clean waters, sort the three 
 lots, and for any one of them that is for white, make 
 half a pouud of the best starch for it ; at once stiffen 
 it, and hang it up to dry out of the way. The other 
 two lots are ready to dye any color you want. If you 
 have about twenty yards of cotton that is a bad white, 
 and wants bleaching, put a pound of oxy-muriate in the 
 tub that these came out of, and handle it in for ten min- 
 utes only, get it up, and put a tablespoonful of vitriol ; 
 put it back again, and give it ten minutes longer ; get 
 it up, rinse, and starch it for white ; and if not, it is 
 now clean for any other color. 
 
 To Bleach small Articles of Cotton or Linen Fabric that 
 
 are a bad White. 
 
 These small things must be well cleaned and boiled 
 off in soap only, and I will suppose that when they are 
 all cleaned and boiled off, there is a pailful of them when 
 wrung out. Earthenware pans I do not like, because 
 they are glazed with lead, and that comes off when it is 
 tried out of the common way ; I like a wooden washing " 
 
COTTON DYEING. 229 
 
 tray that will hold five or six pails of water, for this pur- 
 pose. If the tray will hold six pails of water, put in 
 five ; have a clean wash-hand basin, and mix up a pound 
 of Barnes' oxy-muriate of lime into a thin paste, and 
 put it through a thin gauze into the clean cold water in 
 the washing tray, every bit of it must go in through the 
 muslin ; now handle in all these articles at once, keep 
 handling them for ten minutes, and leave them well 
 covered over for two hours ; then give them a good 
 handling for five minutes, and leave them in this until 
 the morning; then get them up, throw this away, and 
 give them three cold waters, and in the last water put 
 in half an ounce of powder blue ; handle well in this 
 for twenty minutes, and they are ready for starching. 
 These things ought to be always dried before they are 
 starched, and when the starch is ready to take off the 
 fire, put a quarter of an ounce of white wax candle in 
 it, and stir it well ; the iron will not stick with this 
 caution. 
 
 To Dye fifty yards of Cotton Furniture Pink. 
 
 Cotton furniture linings for this color must be pink, 
 white, or some very light color ; they must be cleaned 
 and well boiled off in soap and ash ; if they are a pink 
 they must be boiled off all the same. It is a mistake 
 to think the old color is any service ; it is better taken 
 clean off. Some dyers think when they are boiling off 
 these pinks they might as well put as much annotto in 
 the boil as would make them flesh color, but that is a 
 great mistake, they never can be made a good blue pink 
 after they get the annotto, they will be always a fiery 
 pink ; besides they take so much more safflower to cover 
 the annotto, and that makes it expensive, and you have 
 a worse color for your pains ; help of this sort is no good ; 
 safflower only is the best ajid cheapest. 
 
 To dye this forty yards of cotton pink, it will take 
 two pounds of the best safrlower, or three pounds of the 
 common safflower, one pound of tartaric acid, or two 
 
230 . love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 pounds of crude tartar, and one quartern of the best 
 flour. The safflower being in soak for some time, and 
 all the lumps broke in a kettle and ash, proceed and strip 
 it of its color, as per instructions in page 65 ; and these 
 cottons for pink are to take the place of the pink sheets 
 in the extract of the safflower. Open the work and 
 handle it well in for twenty minutes ; have a two-quart 
 brown mug and melt the tartaric -acid in it, with scald- 
 ing water ; stir it well, and take up the pinks out of the 
 safflower ; now put in one half pint of tartaric acid out 
 of the mug, and handle the pinks in for ten minutes ; 
 you must handle them in very quick this time and the 
 next; get them up and put in another half pint of acid, 
 put them back and handle them in for ten minutes more ; 
 get them up, and put in another half pint of acid, and 
 handle them well for ten minutes, then get them up, 
 give them a pint of acid, and put them back and handle 
 them well, and they are dyed a very full pink ; you 
 have now three half pints of tartaric acid left. Take 
 them up out of the safflower liquor, and throw it away, 
 and in the same tub rinse and starch them. You must 
 rinse them in three separate clean cold waters ; and put 
 a little common sour in each tub of water, it is not to 
 taste by any means. When you give them the three 
 separate cold waters, you put five pails of water in the 
 tub, and give them one pint of the tartaric acid out of the 
 brown mug ; handle them well in this, and wring them 
 well out, and put them on a peg ; throw away this tar- 
 taric acid and water, but cleanse the sieve in it first ; 
 strain the starch into the tub, put in the starch the half 
 pint of tartaric acid that is left in the mug, stir it well, 
 and begin to stiffen them ; if the starch is too hot you 
 must cool it, it must be only warm ; wring them up, 
 shake them, and hang them up where they will be dry 
 by morning, and return them into the starch ; wring up, 
 fold, hang up to dry, finish, and they are done. 
 
COTTON DYEING. 231 
 
 To Bye the above Rose Pink. 
 
 This furniture lining must be well cleaned in soap, 
 and boiled off in soap, ash, and annotto, at the same time, 
 that is, in the same copper. Boil up four ounces of an- 
 notto in a saucepan that will hold two quarts of water, 
 and four ounces of pearlash, for half an hour ; strain this 
 into your copper, and put the rose pinks in and boil 
 them well for an hour, never leaving them all the time ; 
 they must be handled well also. Have a clean thin 
 liquor of soap and soda, to put them in out of the cop- 
 per, work them well in this thin liquor, and rinse them 
 well in a strong sour, out of the thin liquor ; give them 
 full twenty minutes in this, well handling them all the 
 time to regulate them ; wring up out of this, and give 
 them two cold waters, and now begin and dye them. In 
 dyeing pale pinks, I did not use annotto, but I am obliged 
 to use it in this pink to give it a peculiar plumpness, 
 which materially assists the safflower. In dyeing pink, 
 1 allowed one pound of the best safflower for every 
 twenty yards, or one pound of inferior for every sixteen 
 yards ; now you must have one pound for every ten yards 
 of full rose pink or four pounds of safflower for the fifty 
 yards. With good management in the dyeing, a splendid 
 rose pink can be done on this cotton. 
 
 You will dye this now exactly in the same manner 
 you dyed the pink ; you must use more tartaric acid, 
 because you will have to use more soda or ash in strip- 
 ping the safflower. You must be cautious how you strip 
 the safflower, a little too much would spoil all the saf- 
 flower. I am very partial to having my cottons returned 
 when dry in the starch, they gain every way by returning 
 them, in cloth and color, and put a quarter of a pound 
 of- beeswax in the starch when it is made, stir it well 
 until it entirely dissolves in the starch, and then leave 
 it until you want to stiffen the work. The beeswax will 
 make it glaze better, and if it is friction calendered, it 
 will send the color down six shades darker, in fact you 
 would not believe it to be the same color you sent to be 
 
2o2 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 calendered, it will be so much improved by the beeswax 
 in the starching. 
 
 Tartaric Acid. 
 
 It has long been known that the casks in which certain 
 wdnes are kept become incrusted with a hard substance, 
 tinged with the coloring matter of the wine, which has 
 been called argol ; this when purified by solution and 
 crystallization constitutes cream of tartar ; from this 
 salt, tartaric acid is procured. It consists.in boiling the 
 cream of tartar in water, and gradually adding chalk to 
 the solution, until the effervescence ceases ; the mixture 
 is then set aside to allow a subsidence of the precipitate 
 formed, which is afterwards washed and decomposed by 
 sulphuric acid, when the tartaric acid thus liberated will 
 assume a crystalline form. Tartaric acid is colorless, 
 inodorous, very acid, and agreeable to the taste, so that 
 it supplies the place of lemon juce for dyers in many 
 important branches of their art. — From 'Paris's Chem- 
 istry,' page 527. 
 
 Safflower. 
 
 " Haselquist relates, in his voyage to Egypt, that when 
 the flowers of safflower are gathered, they are squeezed 
 between two stones, to express their juice, that they are 
 afterwards washed in pit-well water, which in Egypt is 
 naturally salt; that in coming out of the water they are 
 pressed between the hands, and then spread out on mats 
 on terraces; that they are covered during the day, to 
 hinder the sun drying them too much, but that they are 
 exposed to the dew during the night; that they are 
 turned over from time to time, and that when they are 
 found to be dried to the proper point, they are taken up, 
 and prepared for the market. The flower of safflower 
 has a fine flame color; it should be gathered only when 
 it begins to fade ; it is better when it has received rain ; 
 the seeds may be left to ripen after the blossom is 
 
COTTON DYEING. ' 233 
 
 cropped." — From "Butholet on Dyeing," translated by 
 Dr. Ure. 
 
 To Dye Turkey Reds on Cotton. 
 
 After the battle of Waterloo, a Frenchman of the 
 name of Pamphillon came to London and introduced the 
 dyeing of Turkey-reds on cotton; it created quite a sen- 
 sation in London at the time. I have been told the 
 Government gave him a premium for introducing it; 
 and his Majesty, George III., went to Whitehall Gar- 
 dens to see Mr. Pamphillon wash a piece of his own 
 dyeing of Turkey- red in the river Thames. But he was 
 not satisfied; he entered into speculations, quite foreign 
 to Turkey-red dyeing, lost by them and died a poor man. 
 Mr. Monteith succeeds him as a dyer of Turkey-reds, 
 and has given his name to the color, just in the same 
 manner as Americus snapped the name of the new world 
 from Columbus by giving it his own. Shortly after my 
 apprenticeship, I went to work as a journeyman for Mr. 
 Duggan, of King street, Holborn, and there met with a 
 fellow workman of the name of Baker; he and I worked 
 some time together, and of course we were almost 
 always talking of dyeing ; he told me he worked for the 
 Turkey-red Frenchman, as we dyers then called him, 
 and the different processes he used; he then described 
 them to me, which is as near as I can recollect, as fol- 
 lows. — Dyers of silk, woollen, and cotton, do not dye 
 Turkey-reds — it is a branch in itself. 
 
 The cotton goods are cleaned regularly in soap, made 
 from cocoa-nut or palm oil, and a copper in proportion to 
 the quantity of work ; from ten yards to a hundred yards 
 is made to boil, and when it boils, the water is merely soft- 
 ened with pearlash, and then some of the palm oil soap 
 put in to make a soap liquor; put the cottons in this, 
 boil for half an hour, have a tub with a clean hot soap 
 liquor in it, of palm or cocoa-nut oil soap ; handle the 
 work well in this, wring it out of it, and hang it up to 
 dry. The next process is to beat up sheep and cow 
 
234 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 dung, ash, and water together, until it is a liquid paste ; 
 now work all this through a sieve into a clean copper, 
 and put a quarter of as much sweet oil to it, as you have 
 dung and ash ; mix these well together, with a fire under 
 the copper, and keep stirring it with a stick all the time; 
 you must see you have enough ash in it to make the 
 whole mess into a soap-like stuff; there is double the 
 quantity of water added to this liquor. The cotton is 
 put in, and well handled, and left for the night ; in the 
 morning it has a palm oil soap liquor, wrung out well, 
 and dried, and when dry, it is regularly cleaned in cocoa- 
 nut oil soap, and dried again. Now you must give it a 
 strong nut-gall liquor, and then a strong hot alum; give 
 it an hour in the alum ; and rinse it, and return it in 
 the gall liquor again. Handle it an hour in this liquor, 
 and get it up again, and give it an hour in the alum ; 
 wring it up well out of the alum, and dry it again. Now 
 dye it clean in a copper, according to the bulk of the 
 cottons, and for every three pails of water, put into the 
 copper one pound of the best madder, and one quart of 
 horse's, sheep's, pig's, or bullock's blood ; get the copper 
 on to a scald, and handle the work in, but it is not to 
 boil in this liquor. Keep it in for an hour, get it up, 
 and give it a good strong alum and hot water ; give it 
 half an hour in this liquor, take it up, rinse it in a couple 
 of waters, return it, and boil it in the madder and blood 
 copper, for half an hour; get it up; rinse, and dry it 
 well, and when dry, clean it in very hot and strong soap 
 liquors, rinse, and give them a weak starch for a finish. 
 As these cottons are generally for ladies' dresses and 
 handkerchiefs, they do not want strong starch, they must 
 be got up soft. This color wears out with the cotton,,' 
 not before; you may do as you like with it, it will not 
 stir, nothing that we know of can move it, but oxy- 
 muriate of lime. 
 
 To Dye Cotton Madder Red. 
 
 Take a piece of white cotton as it comes from the 
 loom, which is about twenty yards, some measure thirty. 
 
COTTON DYEING. 235 
 
 It is now full of its own oil, but not bleached, neither 
 do I want it bleached. Clean out a copper that will 
 hold twelve pails of water ; make it boil, and put in one 
 pound of potash, melt this well before you put in the 
 work ; when it is melted put in the work and boil it for 
 twenty minutes, then get it up and rinse it ; put four 
 pounds of the best sumach in the copper, and fill it up 
 with boiling water ; make the copper boil well for ten 
 minutes ; turn it over into a tub, and tell your man to 
 scour out the copper, and fill it with clean water, and 
 make it boil, while you handle the work well in the su- 
 mach for an hour ; then take it up, and give it a scald- 
 ing hot alum and sugar of lead, for half an hour ; take 
 it up and rinse it in two waters ; put it back again in 
 the sumach ; keep it in this for half an hour, take it up, 
 alum it again for twenty minutes, and take up and rinse 
 it, and it is ready for dyeing. Clean out a copper that 
 will hold twelve pails of water, put into it two pounds 
 of madder, make it boil very gently for a minute or two, 
 and open the door ; put the work in the copper, and 
 handle it well ; shut the copper door and make it boil 
 for half an hour gently ; now take it up, give, it a clean 
 hot alum, and handle it well for twenty minutes ; take 
 it up, rinse it, and put it to drain. Now put one pound 
 of fresh madder in the copper, return the work, and boil 
 it for twenty minutes ; take it up, rinse, starch, and dry 
 it, and have it friction-calendered for a finish. 
 
 Remarks. — These madder and Turkey-reds are con- 
 sidered fast colors, but oxy-muriate of lime discharges 
 them like the fast blue. The handkerchiefs with the 
 square spots in them are discharged by folding in 
 squares, and putting in a hydraulic press ; in the bottom 
 of the press are square holes as you will see on the 
 handkerchiefs. These new piece handkerchiefs are fold- 
 ed regularly by dozens up to the top of the press. On 
 the top there is a corresponding pattern. The oxy-mu- 
 riate of lime is forced by a pump into these squares at 
 the top and comes out at the bottom ; then rinsed with 
 clean water. The press is unscrewed and they are well 
 
236 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 rinsed in clean cold water. They can make corners, 
 borders, and flowers, or any figures they like this way. 
 
 To Clean and Re-dye thirty yards of Cotton Furniture 
 
 Lining Crimson. 
 
 Work of this description must be well cleaned, and 
 all the old color boiled off in a copper of strong ash, and 
 soap, for an hour ; it must be well handled in the cop- 
 per all the time it is boiling, and never left ; if it is 
 boiled off in the soap copper uneven it will show it all 
 through the re-dyeing, and you must have a good strong 
 copper stick for the purpose ; when the hour is up, make 
 a clean hot thin liquor of ash and soda to put them in 
 out of the boil ; punch them well in this, wring them 
 up, and scour out a big kettle and make three lots of the 
 work. Nearly fill the kettle with clean warm water 
 and put a teacupful of common sour in it ; now take 
 one lot just as you wrung it out of the thin liquor, and 
 spirit it well in this kettle ; it must be kept even here 
 as well as in the boil. Now make up two cold waters 
 and get the work up on a peg to drain out of the spirits, 
 and get another lot in the spirit. Tell your man to boil 
 up in the little copper five pounds of sumach directly, 
 and put a pound of soda 'in it, which must boil for a 
 quarter of an hour, the man standing by it all the time, 
 lest it should boil over ; now go on with the spiriting, 
 and the first lot you spirited throw into the rinsing water, 
 and get up the second out of the spirits, and put a little 
 more spirits in your kettle for the third lot, and tell your 
 man to go on rinsing those you have spirited. Take 
 up the last lot out of the spirits, and rinse them also in 
 the two cold waters. Then throw the spirit away, and 
 after it the two cold waters ; make up a good warm 
 water, and put the three lots into this one warm water, 
 handle them well in it. Tell your man to turn over the 
 sumach into a clean tub, and to boil one pail of peach- 
 wood chips in a small copper that will hold five or six 
 pails of water, twice, and to put half a pound of soda in 
 
COTTON DYEING. 237 
 
 the first boil of the chips. Now you handle the work 
 you took out of the hot water into the scalding hot su- 
 mach for one hour ; they must not be left, get them up, 
 and put your sumach into the sumach cistern, and put 
 ten pails of boiling water in the tub, two pounds of alum, 
 and half a pound of sugar of lead; handle your work 
 well in this for an hour ; get them up and give them a 
 pint of muriate of tin, in this liquor; put them back 
 and handle them well for twenty minutes ; let them lie 
 in this while you look to the peach wood and starch. 
 Have two pounds of the best starch made in a pail and 
 a half of boiling water in a small kettle ; put it to swim 
 in a copper of boiling water, and put into it one pail- 
 ful of. the second boil of the peachwood liquor, stir it 
 well, and take it out of the copper to cool. See that 
 the peachwood is turned over, the first and second boil 
 in one liquor, and that it is cooling for you. Now go 
 to the alum liquor, and get the work up and give it two 
 cold waters, and put it to drain. See if you can bear 
 your arm up to the elbows for a minute or two in the 
 peachwood liquor ; begin and dye your work by hand- 
 ling it well for half an hour in the peachwood liquor, 
 and it is ready for starching, and, when it is starched 
 and dried, returned in the same starch, folded, and fin- 
 ished by hand, tool or friction-calender. 
 
 Remarks. — This thirty yards of cotton I took into the 
 dye house dry, and. never left it except for my dinner 
 until I put it on the hooks to dry. My man of course 
 was helping me all the time. One man cannot do much 
 in a dye-house by himself; but I consider that two men 
 working together will do more than three men working 
 separately. Hence the advantage and saving in the 
 concentration of labor. 
 
 To Dye fifty yards of Cotton Lining Drab, 
 
 This furniture lining must be well cleaned, boiled off 
 in soap and soda, and spirited. If for a drab that is left 
 to ourselves, we generally choose one from among the 
 
238 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 drab patterns as a guide to go by ; in this case we will 
 scald (boil is better) three pounds of sumach and strain 
 it into a tub with ten pails of cold water in it, and one 
 pail of fustic liquor out of the boiled-up fustic cistern 
 (see page 19), and handle it well in this for half an hour, 
 take it up, and throw this away. Put ten pails of cold 
 water in the tub, and melt one pound of copperas in a 
 two-quart stone mug ; stir it well and put one half of it 
 in the clean water ; stir this well, and handle your work 
 well in it for twenty minutes ; get it up and put the 
 other half of the copperas into the tub ; put the work 
 back, and handle it well for twenty minutes. Now get 
 it up and rinse it in two cold waters ; put ten pails of 
 clean cold water in a tub, and one pail of fustic; put 
 half a pint of oil of vitriol into a brown mug, and a 
 quart of cold water on it ; stir it well, and put half a 
 pint of the spirit out of the brown mug into it, and 
 handle your work well in it for ten minutes ; get it up 
 and give it another half-pint of spirits ; put the work 
 back and give it ten minutes more. You must now 
 compare it with your pattern, and if it is as you wish, 
 get it up and rinse it in two clean waters. This will 
 take a quartern of flour, and if wrung out of the rinsing 
 waters pretty dry, will not want returning in the starch. 
 Remarks. — This drab is neither a blue nor a red drab ; 
 if I want a slate drab I would give it no fustic ; if I want 
 a red drab, hot water would do. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing Cotton Drab. 
 
 We will consider the work is all cleaned and ready, 
 and for this fifty yards of furniture cotton lining I would' 
 boil up in five pails of clean water three pounds of 
 sumach, and three pounds of ground fustic, boiled well 
 for ten minutes, with half a pound of soda in it ; when 
 boiled enough, open the door and damp the fire. Have 
 a clean tub and put ten pails of clean cold water in it ; 
 strain over the sumach and fustic into the tub, and make 
 it taste with a little oil of vitriol mixed in water ; melt 
 
COTTON DYEING. 239 
 
 a pound of copperas in a stone mug, stir it well, and put 
 one half of it in your tub. Handle your work for drab 
 in for half an hour, take it up and give it a little more 
 spirits and copperas; put it back in the liquor, and 
 handle it well for ten minutes more. Now compare it 
 with your pattern ; if it is not dark enough, take it up 
 and give in more copperas and more spirits ; now put it 
 back and handle it for twenty minutes ; it should be to 
 the pattern now, so get it up and rinse it well in four or 
 five waters, starch it with a quartern of the best flour, 
 and hang it up. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing the above. 
 
 Boil a pailful of walnut rinds in five pails of water, 
 three times, and strain it through a sieve each time. 
 After the last boil throw the shells away, and clean out 
 your copper for hot water, and to make starch. Handle 
 the work in this walnut liquor for half an hour ; have a 
 tubful of clean water, and half a pound of copperas 
 melted in it. Now handle these in for half an hour; 
 get them up and rinse them well, and return them in the 
 walnut-shell liquor for half an hour; take them up and 
 rinse them well; stiffen them, glaze or calender them, 
 and they are done. This is a very simple and cheap way 
 of dyeing drabs. 
 
 To Dye ten yards of Cotton Gray, and ten yards Slate. 
 
 Put in a copper that will hold five pails of water, one 
 pound of sumach, and one pound of ground logwood; 
 boil these well for twenty minutes ; open the copper 
 door, damp the fire, and strain the liquor into a kettle or 
 tub ; tell your man to scour the copper, and have it to 
 boil directly, and to make you a pound and a half of starch, 
 while you go on dyeing. Put five pails of hot water to 
 the logwood and sumach, in the tub, and handle in the 
 slate color first for five minutes ; then the gray, and 
 handle both well for twenty minutes ; put ten pails of 
 
240 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 water in a tub, and melt one pound of copperas into it; 
 stir it well, and take the work up that is in the logwood 
 and sumach, and take the slate colors yourself, and your 
 man the gray; handle the two lots in the saddening for 
 twenty minutes; get them up, and rinse them, and 
 return the slate lot into the logwood and sumach liquor 
 a second time, and give them twenty minutes, and tell 
 your man to starch his gray lot, and hang it up in a 
 warm room to dry, and the gray is dyed. Now get up 
 the slate out of the logwood and sumach, and sadden it 
 again, rinse it, starch it, and hang it up to dry, and when 
 dry, have both lots calendered. 
 
 Remarks. — These two colors are done at the same 
 time, and at the same cost; if only one is to be done, 
 you must have the weight of drugs, and the same little 
 copper, fire, and saddening; in fact, the expense would 
 be the same, with the exception of half a pound less 
 starch. They must be worked well in the starch. 
 
 To Dye ten yards of Cotton Olive and ten yards of 
 
 Corbeau. 
 
 Boil in a copper that will hold five pails of water, two 
 pounds of sumach, two pounds of ground fustic, and half 
 a pound of ground logwood. Strain over the first and 
 second boiling in one tub, handle the corbeau in 
 first, and the olive next for twenty minutes. Get up, 
 sadden as above, rinse, and return the two lots for twent) 7 
 minutes ; sadden again, and then rinse, and return for 
 twenty minutes longer, and the olive is done. Put the 
 corbeau backwards and forwards in the liquors three 
 times, and it is done. Now rinse both in clean cold 
 water, until all the dregs of the dye-stuff are rinsed out 
 of the goods, then starch them, dry, and calender them, 
 and they will be as good as new. 
 
COTTON DYEING. 241 
 
 To Dye ten yards of Cotton Furniture Lining Cinnamon, 
 ten yards of Orange, ten yards Light Brown, and, ten 
 yards Rappee, at one time. 
 
 Boil two pounds of annotto in four quarts of water, 
 and one pound of soda; boil this well, and keep stirring- 
 it all the time, until it is a thin liquid; now put this 
 aside, and clean out a copper that will hold five pails of 
 water; fill it up, and make it boil; open the copper 
 door, and put in one pound of pearlash, and all the 
 annotto strained and rubbed through a sieve; put the 
 sieve over the copper, after all the annotto is 'gone 
 through it, and pass the new annotto liquor through the 
 sieve that is over the copper, with a bowl, until the 
 sieve is thoroughly freed from annotto; now put some 
 of your melted mottled soap in it, and stir u up, and 
 put the ten yards of cotton for orange in it first; boil 
 this well for forty minutes; make up a clean warm thin 
 soap liquor, with a very little ash in it ; get two clean 
 boiling-off sticks; take up the cottons on the sticks, and 
 let the cotton drain into the copper before you put it 
 into the thin liquor; handle your orange cottons in the 
 thin liquor, and give them a strong sour out of it ; rinse, 
 and give them a little safflower to make them to the 
 orange, pattern ; stiffen and hang them up, and they are 
 done. 
 
 The next in this copper is cinnamon. Put the cot- 
 tons in this copper, and boil them well for half an hour, 
 and handle them well all the time ; when the time is 
 up, handle them into the thin liquor, and give them 
 water; handle well for twenty minutes, then give them 
 to your man to finish. The finishing process is done by 
 giving them the scaldings of half a pound of sumach in 
 five pails, to which is added a quarter of a pound of 
 copperas in clean cold water, this occupies about twenty 
 minutes ; rinse them, and scald a pound of ground fus- 
 tic, and pass this through a sieve into a tub with five 
 pails of water, very hot ; well handle them in this, and 
 16 
 
242 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 rinse, starch, fold, and hang up, and the cinnamon cotton 
 is done. 
 
 The next is the Light Brown and Rappee. Put half a 
 pound of pearlash in your copper and fill up out of the 
 thin liquor ; handle the brown in the copper, next make 
 it boil well in this for twenty minutes, and keep hand- 
 ling it all the time ; if your work gets uneven through 
 want of attention in the handling it will always show it 
 when it is dry, and it will have to be dyed again. You 
 must mind the customer only pays for one dyeing, so the 
 dyer ought to be more careful in dyeing his work, and 
 avoid having to dye it a second time, for while it is in 
 his charge all loss has to be borne by the master. Now 
 get your brown up out of your copper and put in the 
 thin liquor ; get it up, rinse it, and put it on a peg to 
 drain. 
 
 The next ten yards is the rappee. Boil this in your 
 annotto copper without any addition of drugs for half an 
 hour, and get it up and put it in your thin liquor; 
 handle it well in this, rinse it, and put it to drain. Now 
 throw away your annotto liquor and scour it out ; fill it 
 up with clean water, put in it two pounds of ground 
 fustic, two pounds of sumach, two pounds of redwood, 
 and half a pound of soda, and boil it well for ten min- 
 utes. Now handle in your brown cotton and boil it well 
 for half an hour ; get it up, put six pails of clean cold 
 water in a kettle, and melt one pound of copperas in a 
 stone mug ; put it in, and tell your man to handle the 
 brown cotton in the copperas kettle, while you put the 
 rappee in the copper, and boil it well for twenty min- 
 utes. Now tell your man to take the brown cotton out 
 of the copperas, and rinse it in two clean cold waters ; 
 give him the cotton for rappee to sadden, while you give 
 the brown cotton a second boiling in your brown copper 
 for twenty minutes, when it is done. Now get up the 
 rappee out of the saddening, rinse it, and boil it for 
 twenty minutes ; put one pound more of copperas in 
 your copperas kettle, and handle the rappee cotton in it 
 for twenty minutes ; get it up and rinse it, boil it again , 
 
COTTON DYEING. 243 
 
 for half an hour in the copper ; take it up and it is done. 
 Well rinse this work before you stiffen it/for the ground 
 dye-stuffs want a great deal of rinsing. I have useoj. 
 ground drugs here for the purpose of simplifying, so 
 that any person that follows my directions will know the 
 exact proportion of drugs they will require. By the 
 measurement of the silk, woollen, and cotton fabrics 
 they are going to dye, let it be much or little, they can 
 easily see how much dye-stuff will be wanted for one 
 yard. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing Cotton Brown, 
 
 For ten yards of dark brown, and ten yards of light 
 brown, put into the copper of five or six pails measure, 
 three pounds of sumach ; boil it well for ten minutes ; 
 turn it into a tub and well handle your cottons in it with 
 a stick for an hour ; tell your man to clean out the cop- 
 per and make starch, and when the time is up get your 
 work up, and melt two pounds of copperas in a kettle, 
 with six pails of clean cold water. Take the dark brown 
 and handle it well in the copperas for twenty minutes, 
 and get it up to cool, and handle in the light brown, 
 while it is cooling, for twenty minutes also ; now get 
 the light brown out of the saddening, and put the dark 
 one in again for ten minutes longer ; get this up and put 
 the other in the saddening again. Now put the sadden- 
 ing out of the way and rinse these in one cold water ; 
 put three pails of boiling water on the sumach liquor 
 that is left and which was used first, put the work in it, 
 and handle it well ; punch and turn it in to clean as well 
 as to darken it ; fold it up, put it on a peg to drain, and 
 put ten pails of water in a tub, and three pounds of 
 ground alum, and half a pound of sugar of lead ; your 
 alum water must be as hot as your hands can bear it. 
 Now put the two lots of brown cottons in this, and 
 handle. them well for half an hour; leave them and 
 scour out the little copper, put four pounds of peach- 
 wood and four pounds of ground fustic into it, and make 
 
244 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 it boil, then open the copper door. Take the light 
 brown up out of the alum, rinse it in two ten pails of 
 clean water, and then another ten pails ; fold it up, put 
 it on a horse to drain, and have two clean copper sticks 
 and handle the work in the copper for twenty minutes ; 
 tell your man to get the dark brown out of the alum, 
 and rinse it for you, and put it on the peg to drain. 
 Take up the light brown out of the copper and cool it, 
 tell your man to rinse and starch it, when it is done. 
 Now begin dyeing the dark brown. Put this in the 
 copper and boil it for twenty minutes ; get it up, and 
 sadden it ; rinse and return it in the peach and fustic 
 copper with a pound more of each drug in it. Boil it 
 well in this for half an hour, and draw the fire from 
 under the copper ; take up your work, cool it, rinse it 
 well, and stiffen these two lots in a pound and a half of 
 the best starch and a quarter of a pound of beeswax, 
 put in the lump into the starch directly it is made, and 
 stir it until it is dissolved in the starch. When you 
 are starching this sort of work you must be careful to 
 work the starch well into it, as the white of the starch 
 will show on it, unless by sheer force you draw the color 
 out in order to stain the starch nearly the color of the 
 work ; when it is starched, it must be well shook out, 
 nicely folded, and let lie by in a dry piece of blanket, 
 or woollen cloth, for a couple of hours before you hang 
 them up to dry in a warm room. 
 
 To Dye a Drab Coburg Dress Brown, and Clean and 
 Re-dye a Brown Coburg Dress. 
 
 These two dresses must be cleaned, rinsed, spirited 
 sharply in a common sour, and well rinsed out of the 
 common sour, and dried. Great coats and other made 
 up articles for dyeing brown, are always the better for 
 cleaning, spiriting, and drying, for then the color gets 
 into the heart of them. 
 
 The reader will excuse me from obviously going over 
 the same ground again, and will perhaps think it surfi- 
 
COTTON DYEING. 245 
 
 cient if I refer him to the last lot of browns for entire 
 information how to dve this work* brown. 
 
 Coburg cloth is an imitation of merino, and the prin- 
 cipal thread is worsted, the other thread at the back of 
 it is cotton, and that is the reason it has a place here; 
 for when the worsted is dyed in the worsted way, the 
 cotton dries white, and the worsted is brown ; the white 
 grinning through the brown thread makes it look very- 
 ugly. The way I am going to dye these browns now, 
 is a way I have dyed them — cotton and worsted at one 
 and the same time brown, and it is a very strong color. 
 For these two dresses, all cleaned, spirited, and dry, have 
 a copper that will hold ten pails of water, and boil first 
 the two dresses in one pailful of oak sawdust, four pounds 
 of ground fustic, and four pounds of redwood ; boil these 
 two dresses in this copper for half an hour ; get them 
 up, and put a drab coat for brown, and a pair of trousers 
 in the copper, and boil these well for forty minutes. 
 Now get up the coat and trousers, and put in your cop- 
 per four pounds of sumach, put the dresses in the cop- 
 per, and boil them well for half an hour, get them up to 
 drain on a peg, and put in the coat and trousers for half 
 an hour. Send your man to the copper to handle the 
 coat and trousers, while you put a pound of copperas at 
 the bottom of a large kettle, and fill it up with boiling 
 water, now handle the drab coburg in this for ten 
 minutes ; take it up, open it out on the tenters to cool ; 
 put the other brown dress in the copperas, and give it 
 ten minutes also ; rinse these, and give them six pails 
 of lime-water ; wring them out of this, and put them 
 back again three or four times through the copperas and 
 lime-water. They are to be rinsed out of the copperas, 
 and rinsed out of the lime before they go in the copperas. 
 Now rinse them well, and put them to drain, and take 
 the coat and trousers out of the copper ; have your man 
 to put in the two dresses, and boil them well for half an 
 hour ; now throw away the saddening out of the kettle, 
 and all your rinsing waters and lime ; rinse out the 
 kettle, and put one pound of copperas in it, and fill it up 
 
246 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 with boiling water and handle the brown coat and 
 trousers in it for twenty minutes ; now get them up, and 
 cool them, rinse in two waters, and put them on the pegs 
 to drain ; take the two merinos out of the copper, and 
 give them to your man to rinse, after they are cooled ; 
 these two merino dresses are dyed brown, cotton and 
 worsted the same. They are two very pretty browns, one 
 light, and one dark ; they must be well rinsed ; and melt 
 a pound of size, such as you buy at the oil shops, in two 
 pails of boiling water ; strain it, and work them well in 
 it to clean them, as well as to bind the color; they must 
 have a clean cold water after the size; drain them, and 
 hang them up to dry, and they are ready for finishing. 
 
 Now there is the coat and trousers boiling all this 
 time in the copper; get them up, and sadden them a 
 second time, rinse them, and put them back in the cop- 
 per, boil them for half an hour, and they are done. If 
 they are not dark enough sadden them again, rinse and 
 return them in the copper and give them a good boil, 
 and if then they are not dark enough repeat the sadden- 
 ing, rinsing, and boiling in the copper until they are 
 black, if you like without any addition of dye-stuff; by 
 no means put any copperas in the copper. Well rinse 
 these, and scour them inside and out, over the scouring 
 board with gall ; well rinse the gall out of them, hang 
 them up to dry, and they are done. When the coat 
 and trousers are dry, grain them down with a hard 
 brush and gall and water; they are not to be wet 
 through, the brush is to be dipped in the gall, and the 
 grain of the cloth well worked with the brush, and 
 smoothed with the brush the way of the grain. 
 
 Bleaching Powder. — This is a chloride commonly 
 called oxy-muriate of lime. On exposing a thin stratum 
 of recently slackened lime in powder to chlorine, this 
 gas is absorbed in large quantities ; this chloride is 
 formed in the state of a white powder, which destroys 
 vegetable and animal matter, and is much used by dyers, 
 and has been as a preventive for the cholera. 
 
 Our Mordant Alum. — Alum is the double sulphate of 
 
COTTON DYEING. 247 
 
 alumina and potassa ; it crystallizes readily; it is pre- 
 pared in this country from a silicious clay, called alum 
 slate, and in Italy from alum stone, which is produced 
 in volcanic districts by the action of sulphurous acid 
 vapors on the rocks. When this mineral is treated with 
 a due quantity of sulphuric acid, it dissolves, and is con- 
 verted into the crystallizable alum of commerce. Alum 
 is extensively employed in the arts, particularly in dye- 
 ing, and lake making. 
 
 Green Copperas. — Green vitriol or copperas, as it is 
 commonly called, is a sulphate of iron, and is prepared 
 by the action of dilute sulphuric acid on metallic iron, 
 or by the oxygenation of the native sulphuret of iron, 
 or iron pyrites, by the action of air and moisture ; this 
 salt is employed in the manufacture of fuming sulphuric 
 acid, in the preparation of ink and Prussian blue, and in 
 dyeing black and other colors in silk, cotton, and woollen 
 fabrics. 
 
 Blue Stone or Blue Vitriol. — This compound is the 
 sulphate of the black oxide of copper, and may be pre- 
 pared by dissolving the oxide in dilute sulphuric acid, 
 or by oxygenating the sulphuret by the action of heat 
 and air. 
 
 Verdigris. — This compound is commonly used as a 
 pigment, is an acetate of copper, and is prepared by 
 covering copper plates with cloth soaked in pyroligneous 
 acid. 
 
 Sugar of Lead and Goulard's Extract. — " Sugar of 
 lead, also called acetate of lead, is prepared by dissolving 
 either the carbonate or litharge in distilled vinegar. 
 Goulard's extract is the subacetate of lead, and is pre- 
 pared by boiling oxide of lead in excess, in dilute acetic 
 acid." — " Hoblin's Manual of Chemistry." 
 
 To Dye twenty yards of Cotton Plum Color. 
 
 This cotton must be well cleaned and boiled off in 
 soap and soda, bleached with oxy muriate of lime, and 
 then made a pale blue in a blue vat. (See page 214). 
 
248 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 When it comes out of the vat it must have a strong: 
 sour to clean it. Scald a pound of sumach, handle it in 
 this for twenty minutes, and get up. Put five pails of 
 water in a copper kettle, and melt one pound of alum, 
 and four ounces of sugar of lead in a stone mug, and 
 handle it well in this for half an hour. Get it up, rinse 
 it in two clean cold waters, and give it two pailsful of 
 peachwood liquor, and one bowl of logwood liquor in 
 four pails of blood-warm water. Handle it in this for 
 twenty minutes, get it up, and throw the liquor away. 
 Put four pails of hot water, one pail of peachwood liquor, 
 and one quart of logwood liquor in the kettle. Make 
 this liquor as hot as you can bear your hands in it; 
 handle the work well in it for twenty minutes ; get it 
 up, starch it, and hang it up to dry in a warm room. It 
 will be a better color if returned in the starch when dry. 
 When I intend to return any sort of cotton goods in the 
 starch I never shift the starch out of the vessel, dry them 
 quick and return them in it directly. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing the above. 
 
 Scour out a kettle that will hold six pails of logwood 
 liquor ; handle your cotton well in this liquor for twenty 
 minutes, and get it up so that it will drain in the liquor. 
 Melt one pound of copperas, and a quarter of a pound of 
 blue stone in a tub, with six pails of hot water in it. 
 Handle the work well out of the logwood into this liquor 
 for a quarter of an hour, get it up, rinse it well in three 
 clean waters ; handle it well again in the logwood for 
 twenty minutes, and fold it up on a kettle peg, over the 
 logwood. Put five pails of hot water, one pail of log- 
 wood liquor, and one quart of muriate of tin in the clean 
 empty kettle. Handle the cotton in this liquor for half 
 an hour, fold it up, and put in a tablespoonful of vitriol ; 
 put the work back, handle it well in this liquor for 
 twenty minutes, fold it up, and throw the liquor away. 
 Rinse the work in three clean cold waters, starch it, and 
 dry it, and when dry, return it in the same starch; fold 
 
COTTON DYEING. 249 
 
 it, and let it remain a few hours in the folds to regulate 
 before hanging it up. This sort of color ought to be 
 friction-calendered, as the glazing tool makes it wavy. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing the above. 
 
 Clean out a copper that will hold six pails of water, 
 and for these twenty yards of cotton, put in it three 
 pounds of sumach, and boil it well. Turn it into a tub, 
 handle the work in it for an hour, and get it up. Put 
 six pails of scalding water, two pounds of alum, and 
 half a pound of sugar of lead in a kettle, and handle the 
 work in this for half an hour. Get it up, and put in 
 the liquor one quart of muriate of tin. Work the cot- 
 ton well in this for another half hour, get it up, and 
 rinse it in three clean cold waters. Having a clean 
 kettle or tub, put in it four pails of water, four pails of 
 peachwood liquor, and one bowl of logwood liquor. 
 Handle the work in this for half an hour, take it up, 
 and throw away the liquor. Make up another of the 
 same proportions of the logwood and peachwood liquors, 
 and handle the work in it for another half hour, then 
 get it up, and throw the liquor away. Put six pails of 
 hot water, one pail of peachwood liquor, and a bowl of 
 logwood liquor in the kettle, and handle the work in 
 this for ten minutes; Get it up and starch it, and when 
 dry return it in the starch, fold it, and when the starch 
 is regulated in it, hang it up to dry in a warm room. It 
 must be dried with care, and be friction-calendered for 
 a finish. 
 
 To Dye a new piece of Cotton, twenty -eight yards, Green, 
 
 for Umbrellas. 
 
 The cotton must be a fast green one, that will stand 
 wind and weather to the last. It must be boiled in 
 strong ash to take the grease and lime out of it, well 
 rinsed, and put on a peg to drain. Begin and dye it 
 blue first in the blue vat (see page 214) * have the blue 
 
250 . love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 Tat frame on the floor of the dye-house, and have the 
 cottons in a basket beside it. Begin by hooking the two 
 selvages on the top and bottom of the frame. Having 
 done this, drop the net into the vat , and fasten it well, 
 taking care it does not go within half a foot of the bot- 
 tom. Having your man to help you, both of you lift it 
 up and regularly and gently dip it down, as a man dips 
 candles. When the top edge of the cotton is covered 
 an inch it is low enough. Fasten it, and pass a long 
 thin stick through the folds of the cotton, so that it may 
 not stick together while in the vat. Give it twenty 
 minutes in this; then both of you lift it up on the vat, 
 put the stick between the folds, and blow and keep them 
 asunder by all the means you can, until it cools down, 
 which will be pretty soon. The reader, or the " unpro- 
 fessional" reader, as the doctors say, must understand 
 that when the cotton was taken out of the vat it was 
 green ; and if not w T ell watched in the cooling, it will be 
 uneven, and have to be bleached with oxy-muriate of 
 lime, to take the color off, as it is fast. The cotton 
 being regularly cooled down, put it back again in the 
 vat if it should require it, and attend to it as at first. 
 Get it up and cool it, and lift the frame with the work 
 on it aside, while you take the net out, and rake it up, 
 and cover it over. Now rinse it by taking it first off 
 the hooks and giving it one clean cold water, then a sour 
 to take the lime out of it, and a couple of rinsings after 
 the spirits. Put ten pails of boiling-hot water and three 
 pounds of ground alum in a tub, handle it well in this 
 for ten minutes, and take it up ; put half a pound of 
 blue stone which has been previously melted in the tub; 
 stir this up well, handle the cotton in it for ten minutes, 
 get, it up, and put it back and leave it while you turn 
 over the weld out of the copper it was boiling in, to dye 
 it. Now the weld being cool and everything ready, fold 
 the work up out of the alum, give it two clean cold 
 waters, and well handle it in the weld liquor for half an 
 hour. See if it is to your pattern ; if it is take it up and 
 rinse it; if not, melt some blue stone, throw away the 
 

 COTTON DYEING. 251 
 
 alum, put a dozen pails of water in the tub, and put the 
 blue stone in it ; handle the work in this liquor for half 
 an hour, take it up, and rinse it in one water; put it 
 through the weld liquor again for twenty minutes; take 
 it up and rinse it ; give it a water starch with half a 
 pint of the killed blue in it, and hang it up to dry. 
 This umbrella green must be finished without a gloss. 
 It is one of the strongest colors that we dye; nothing 
 but oxy-muriate will take it out. 
 
 To Dye Cotton for Umbrellas a False Green without 
 Dyeing them in the Cotton Blue Vat. 
 
 For a piece of cotton about twenty-eight or thirty 
 yards long, put in a copper that will hold six pails of 
 water, three pounds of sumach, seven pounds of fustic, 
 three pounds of logwood, and half a pound of soda. 
 Make this boil well for twenty minutes, and strain it 
 through a sieve into a tub. Fill the copper with clean 
 water, make it boil well for twenty minutes, and strain 
 it through the sieve into the tub with the other. Tell- 
 ing your man to scour out the copper, and get it on for 
 hot water, put the work in the tub, and handle it in the 
 boiling hot liquor for half an hour. Leaving it, put ten 
 pails of hot water in a tub; and melting two pounds of 
 copperas, and one pound of blue stone in a mug, put it 
 in the clean water. Now fold up the work, handle it 
 in this saddening for twenty minutes, get it up, and rinse 
 in two clean waters ; then put it back into the first 
 liquor, handle it well in it for twenty minutes ; take it 
 up, and put it in the saddening for twenty minutes 
 longer, and repeat the process, returning from one liquor 
 to the other three or four times, until you have the work 
 to the pattern. Sometimes it will do in a couple of 
 wets ; it is wonderful how easy all sorts of work go off 
 sometimes, while at others, if you were to work your 
 heart out, you cannot get on, or make any show. Now 
 get up the work, rinse it well, and give it a weak 
 
252 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 starch, with one pail of the first liquor in it ; handle it 
 well in this ; dry it, and finish it. 
 
 Remarks. — This color is not strong enough for urn- 
 hrellas, but it is a cheap and expeditious one for all sorts 
 of cotton goods. The process of dyeing materially 
 thickens the cottons, and it also has this advantage — 
 that however so much faded, a hot liquor of logwood 
 and fustic will make it as good a color as it ever was. 
 
 To Dye a new piece of Linen Dark Blue for Butchers' 
 use, and a new piece of Cotton for Umbrellas. 
 
 These two new pieces are about thirty yards each. 
 Contrary to the usual practice in dyeing cottons a blue 
 in the indigo vat, it is well raked up before we com- 
 mence dyeing these dark blues ; whereas in the light 
 blues we carefully avoid it. Boil these well 'in ash, to 
 open the pores of the cotton, and to take the grease and 
 oil out of both, to make them soft for the dye vat. Get 
 the frames out, and hook on the cotton first, and have 
 your man to help you in with it. Let it drop, and at- 
 tend to it while your man hooks on the piece of linen 
 on another frame. Give each piece twenty minutes. 
 Get up yours, and attend, you and your man, to the 
 cooling of it. Then drop the linen in the vat, and at- 
 tend to it, and so proceed during three separate wets of 
 twenty minutes for each lot. Have three tubs of water 
 all ready to rinse the work when it is vatted. Take the 
 cotton first off the hooks, and rinse it ; then the linen ; 
 give them three clean cold waters, fold them, and put 
 them on a peg to drain. Make up a hot water, and melt- 
 a pound of blue stone in it ; let the water be as hot as 
 you can bear your hands in it ; handle in first the piece 
 of cotton for half an hour, and get it up. Get the linen 
 into the blue stone liquor ; rinse the cotton* in two clean 
 waters, give it two pails of logwood liquor in a good 
 warm water, handle it in this for half an hour ; fold it 
 up, and put it on a peg to drain. Now take the linen 
 out of the blue, give it one water, handle it in the log- 
 
COTTON DYEING. 253 
 
 wood for ten minutes, and get it up to drain. Make up 
 a logwood and hot water, the same as before, for it ; 
 handle it well in this for twenty minutes, take it up, 
 and put it to drain on the peg. Give both a weak 
 starch to .bind the color. For a finish they must be cal- 
 endered. They will be a real good strong blue, the fast- 
 est that can be made ; the reason thev have the logwood 
 and blue stone is, that these liquors give them a purple 
 shade, and make the blue look very rich. Those per- 
 sons that are in the habit of buying these dark blues, 
 will not buy them without the purple tinge. 
 
 Redwood, for Dyeing Brown, 
 
 Red sanders, the only one which is used in dyeing 
 browns, is a solid, compact, heavy wood, which becomes 
 brown by exposure to the air with iron. It is brought 
 from the coast of Coromandel. When in fine powder, 
 it gives to boiling water a fawn brown color, inclining 
 to red. It dissolves ill by itself, but very well with the 
 skin of the walnut, sumach, and nutgalls. Its color is 
 solid, and usefully modifies that of the other matters. 
 Vogler, having found that alcohol diluted with water 
 dissolved the coloring matter of sanders better than 
 water, employed this solution in dyeing samples of wool, 
 cotton, and linen previously impregnated with a solution 
 of tin. Washed and dried, they assumed a poppy color ; 
 a red alum caused them to acquire a fine scarlet color : 
 the sulphate of copper, a light crimson; and the sulphate 
 of iron, a deep violet color. 
 
 Sumach, for Dyeing Black and Brown, 
 
 "Sumach is cultivated abundantly in Spain, in 
 Portugal, and in South of France, for the purposes of 
 dyeing. Its shoots are every year cut to the root, and 
 they are ground and dried for dyeing and tanning. Its 
 infusion, which is a greenish hue, soon becomes brown 
 by the action of the air. It approaches very near nut- 
 
254 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 gall, and, with acetate of alumine, produces a solid and 
 beautiful yellow for calico printers." — 'Fourcroy.' 
 
 The Walnut Shell, Rind, Root, and Bark. 
 
 "The outer shell of the walnut, or the pulp which 
 covers the kernel, is white and grows black in the air, 
 as everybody knows. This blackness adheres to the 
 fingers, and cannot be removed without difficulty. Sul- 
 phate of iron makes it black. It dissolves iron, and 
 makes ink. Its coloring acts on silk, wool, and cotton. 
 It is an excellent coloring matter. It affords very solid 
 colors. It preserves silk, cotton, and wool, and requires 
 no mordant. It is kept in tubs for years, the oldest is 
 always used first. The bark and root of the walnut have 
 the same properties. On trial by M. Berthold, they gave 
 the same colors. In employing them, they may be put 
 in a bag, like quercitron bark, and dyed with the work." 
 — 'Fourcroy's Chemistry,' vol. viii. 
 
 To Dye a new piece of White Cotton Black. 
 
 In new pieces of cotton there are always lime-grease, 
 and other matters, which must be taken out before it 
 can be properly dyed. In dyeing this new piece of cot- 
 ton, thirty yards long, we must clean out the middle cop- 
 per, and make it boil; put one pound of potash, previ- 
 ously well melted, in it ; then put the work in, and boil 
 it well for one hour. Get it up, rinse it, and dye it blue 
 in the indigo blue vat, by putting it on the blue vat 
 frame, and sinking it; give it twenty minutes in the vat ;. 
 get it up, cool it, take it off the frame, and rinse it. Put 
 three pounds of ground sumach, and three pounds of log- 
 wood in the copper, and boil it well; turn it over, and 
 handle the work well in this liquor, for a quarter of an 
 hour ; while you are doing this, have three pounds of 
 fustic boiled up. Folding up the work, melt one pound 
 of copperas and eight ounces of blue stone in ten pails 
 of hot water, and handle the work in it for twenty 
 
COTTON DYEING. 255 
 
 minutes ; get it up, rinse it in a couple of clean waters, 
 and put it through your logwood and sumach again, and 
 give it twenty minutes therein. Get it up, and sadden 
 it again, throw away the logwood and sumach liquor, 
 and strain the fustic into the same tub, and get the cop- 
 per on for starch, and tell your man to make two pounds 
 of the best starch directly. Take the work out of the 
 copperas, rinse it, and handle it well in the hot fustic 
 liquor for half an hour; work it well in this, as this is 
 the liquor to jet it, as well as clean it from all the drugs. 
 Get it up, and stiffen it with sago., fold it, hang it in a 
 warm room to dry, and it is done. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing the above Black. 
 
 Boil five pounds of sumach well for half an hour, turn 
 it into a tub, and handle the work well in it for twenty 
 minutes. Clean out the copper, fill it with clean water, 
 and put in it live .pounds of logwood, and five pounds 
 of fustic. Give the cotton a good handling in this, and, 
 putting them under the liquor, leave them for the night. 
 In the morning begin dyeing. First take the cotton 
 out of the sumach; melt three pounds of copperas in a 
 small kettle, with three pails of boiling water ; put eight 
 pails of water in a tub, and pour the copperas into it ; 
 and handle the cotton out of the sumach in this liquor 
 for half an hour. Take it up, cool it, rinse it in one 
 water, fold it and drain. See now that your man is 
 boiling the logwood and fustic. Turn nine pails of lime- 
 water into a tub, handle the cotton out of the copperas 
 in it for a quarter of an hour, and fold it up. Do not 
 waste this liquor, as it will be wanted again. Rinse the 
 cotton in one water, handle it in the copperas again for 
 twenty minutes. Get it up, and put it through the lime 
 for twenty minutes; then get it up, and put it through 
 the copperas again. Get it up out of the copperas, and 
 cool it, throwing away all the liquors. Give it two 
 clean cold waters, put it in the logwood and fustic which 
 your man has strained into a tub, and handle it in this 
 
256 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 for half an hour ; then give it a second boil of the log- 
 wood and fustic, handle it in this liquor for twenty min- 
 utes, and give it a couple of cold waters out of it ; put it 
 to drain, stiffen it with sago boiled and stained, hang it 
 in a room to dry, and it is done. 
 
 To Dye ten yards of Cotton Velvet Black, 
 
 Boil three pounds of sumach for twenty minutes, turn 
 it into a tub, handle the velvet in, and let it stop in this 
 for a night. Put in a six-pail copper two pounds of 
 logwood and two pounds of fustic ; boil this twice or a 
 first and a second liquor — that is, after the work is sad- 
 dened and limed. You must give it the first boil, and 
 throw the liquor away ; then give it the second boil, 
 and it is done. Give it two cold waters. It must have 
 no stiffening, as that clots the pile. It will not do to 
 lay it on a peg, it must be hung up by the selvage di- 
 rectly. When dry it must be well brushed right and 
 wrong side. That is all the finishing cotton velvets can 
 receive. Some people give them an oil rubber, but that 
 ought not to be done if it can be avoided. Silk velvets 
 are dyed and dressed in a very different way from these. 
 
 To Clean and Re-dye Black Cotton Velvet. 
 
 Weigh the velvet, and boil in a copper as much log- 
 wood chips as the black cotton velvet weighs ; it is of no 
 consequence if it is made up — it must have the same 
 weight. Put a tenth of the weight of soda in with the 
 chips. Boil the logwood three times, so as to have, 
 plenty of float. When all is boiled and turned over, 
 handle the velvet well in for half an hour, and put one 
 tenth of the weight of copperas into the logwood liquor 
 out of which you took the velvets. Stir this up well, 
 put the velvet back into it, and handle it well for half 
 an hour. Get it up to cool, and throw away the liquor 
 you took it out of; rinse it and hang it up to drain, 
 fecour it with gall and water over a board with a soft 
 
COTTON DYEING. 257 
 
 brush, well rinse it, and dry it ; when dry, brush it care- 
 fully, and it is done. 
 
 To Bye Silk ', Cotton, and Worsted Stockings, Black. 
 
 There is a very extensive trade carried on in all the 
 principal towns of the three kingdoms in stocking dye- 
 ing. In London, Dublin, and Edinburgh, silk stocking 
 dyeing is a branch in itself. The dyer who dyes silk 
 stockings dyes nothing else ; the dyer who dyes cotton 
 , stockings also dyes nothing else ; and the dyer who dyes 
 worsted stockings also confines himself to that particular 
 branch. The reason simply is, that in dyeing, dressing, 
 and pressing silk, cotton, and worsted stockings, the dye- 
 house must be adapted in a variety of ways for such a 
 purpose ; and then the drying, the dressing, the leg- 
 boards, and pressing the stockings are so different to 
 anything else in the dyeing trade, that it becomes of ne- 
 cessity a branch in itself. The dyers in the country 
 towns are obliged to dye every kind of work that is 
 brought to them, and to finish it themselves; and, being 
 thrown on their own resources, it makes them very good 
 general workmen. When they come to London, they 
 ask the London dyer for employment in any branch of 
 the business ; the dyer who is brought up in a large 
 town asks for employment in that branch of the trade 
 he was apprenticed to learn — either silk, cotton, woollen, 
 or garment dyeing. The garment, bed, and window 
 furniture dyeing and cleaning, comprehending articles 
 composed of silk, cotton, and wool. The garment dyers 
 are obliged, by their calling, to know how to dye all 
 things sent to them. 
 
 I will begin to dye the silk stockings. For every 
 pound weight of silk stockings put in the copper one 
 pound of bruised walnuts, one pound of fustic, and one 
 pound of logwood chips, and one ounce of ash, and boil 
 these well for two hours. Then damp the copper fire, 
 open the copper door, and turn the chips and liquor 
 into an empty copper, tub, or kettle, that is clean and 
 17 
 
258 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 dry; rinse out the copper, and take care there are no 
 chips in it. Put two sticks across the copper and a sieve 
 on them, and put the liquor back again into the copper 
 through the sieve. Now handle the stockings in this for 
 one hour, and let them lie in the liquor while you put 
 hot water in a kettle and scald two ounces of copperas, 
 and one ounce of blue stone in a mug, and put it in the 
 hot water in the kettle. Take up the stockings to drain, 
 then put them in the saddening, and handle them well 
 in this for twenty minutes. While saddening the stock- 
 ings, stir up the fire so as to make the copper scalding 
 hot. Then take up the stockings, and rinse them well 
 in three clean waters. Open the copper door, damp the 
 fire, put the stockings back again into the copper, and 
 handle them well in this for another hour. Get them 
 up and put them back again in the saddening ; handle 
 them in it, and let them lie in it while you beat the 
 galls and logwood back again into the copper, and make 
 them boil well, to dye.another lot of stockings a different 
 way. Now get the stockings out of the saddening, rinse 
 them well in four or five cold waters, put to drain, and 
 clean them in sago well boiled and strained ; rinse, and 
 dry in a hot room ; shift them, and let the part that was 
 previously uppermost hang down. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing Silk Stockings Black. 
 
 The liquor in the copper is now only half the strength 
 it was originally, yet, notwithstanding, you are not to 
 have any less weight of stockings than at first going off. 
 Boil well for an hour, and turn it over and strain it back, 
 as you did before ; then handle the stockings in the cop- 
 per well for half an hour. Make up a saddening for 
 them as you did before ; and get them up and sadden 
 for twenty minutes ; rinse, return in the copper, and 
 sadden them again. Now throw away this liquor, clean 
 out the copper, fill it with clean cold water, get it on to 
 a boil, and put into it half a pound of logwood, and half 
 a pound of fustic, for every pound weight of silk stock- 
 
COTTON DYEING. 259 
 
 ings you had when they were dry. Make the copper 
 boil well for an hour, and put a little soda or ash in it; 
 damp the fire, and turn the copper into kettles swim- 
 ming in cold water to cool it down ; rinse out the cop- 
 per, and turn these liquors in the kettles back into it, 
 if they are nearly cold, through the sieve. Make this 
 copper a good strong soap liquor with the amalgamated 
 soft soap and oil. The silk stockings have been allowed 
 to remain in the saddening all this time ; get them up, 
 rinse them in a couple of clean cold waters, wring them, 
 and put them into the cold logwood fustic and soap cop- 
 per; handle them well in this until it becomes gradually 
 too hot for your hands ; get them up, clean them in two 
 nice warm soap liquors, and take them out of a thin 
 liquor; separate them, hang them up to dry, and after 
 a time turn them upside down in the drying room as 
 before. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing the above. 
 
 Put the stockings in a preparation of nitrid of iron — 
 one teaspoonful of oil of vitriol, and half a pint of nitrid 
 of iron, for every pail of cold water. Let them lie in 
 this preparation forty-eight hours, turning them now 
 and then all the time; get them up, and dye them in 
 fusic, logwood, and amalgamated soft soap : getting 
 them into the copper cold, and attending to them until 
 they- are dyed ; then give them a gentle cleaning in soap ; 
 wring them out of a thin soap liquor, separate them, and 
 dry them. 
 
 Remarks. — Silk stockings, when they are taken into 
 the dressing-room, out of the drying-room, are examined ; 
 and if they will do, they are well shaken, and put on 
 leg boards suited to their size, by pairs, the right side 
 inwards, and brushed with a brush called the stocking 
 brush, which has had a little neatsfoot oil gently put on 
 it. Each stocking is then taken off the board, and 
 turned right side out, stretched well up, and tacked by 
 the top to the two edges of the leg- board, and then 
 
260 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 brushed with a soft brush to brighten the silk and raise 
 the floss. So the dressers go on until they have two or 
 three dozen prepared. They then set a lot of shavings 
 on fire, in a place made for the purpose, and pass every 
 one of the stockings, both sides, through the blaze of 
 the shavings. In some places this is done with gas, 
 and is called singeing. After this is done, they take 
 them to a board, put them one by one on it, and rub oil 
 into them sparingly. Then they fold them into pairs, 
 and give them to a woman to run a thread of white floss 
 silk through them, and fold them, putting a weight on 
 them, and they are ready for delivery to the customers. 
 Silk, cotton, and worsted stockings for black are 
 always woven from the raw material first, for this reason, 
 that in the weaving it would be impossible to prevent 
 threads and floss of white, blue, and other colors, that 
 are always flying about in a factory, mixing with it. 
 
 To Dye Worsted Stockings Black. 
 
 To dye worsted stockings black is not such a particu- 
 lar process as dyeing silk stockings. There are many 
 ways of doing it, but I shall confine myself to two that 
 are most in use in London. The mode is much the 
 same throughout England and Ireland. Put the stock- 
 ings in one scale, and the logwood in another, weight 
 for weight. Put the logwood in the copper, and boil it 
 well for five minutes; put the stockings in, and •boil 
 them for one hour; they must be moved about with a 
 stick, and kept well under the liquor. Get them up, 
 and put in the copper one-sixth the weight of copperas, 
 and boil them in this for twenty minutes. Get them up 
 and cool them, and when perfectly cold, return them, 
 and boil them well for twenty minutes more. Get them 
 up, and put them to cool. Throw away the liquor, 
 scour out the copper, and fill it up with clean water. 
 Rinse the stockings well in three or four clean waters; 
 then melt two ounces of common size in two quarts of 
 scalding water, for every pair of stockings. Stir the size 
 
COTTON DYEING. 261 
 
 well, strain it into a vessel, and put the stockings in it, 
 scalding hot, as it is, five or ten minutes, well working 
 them all the time they are in to cleanse them. Now 
 get them up, rinse in a couple of cold waters, and they 
 are done. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing the above. 
 
 Weigh the stockings, and put in the copper the same 
 weight of logwood, and the same weight of oak saw- 
 dust — that is, two of dye-stuff to one of wool. Boil 
 these in the copper five minutes, then put in the stock- 
 ings, and boil them for one hour, stirring them with a 
 stick all the time. Get them up, and put in a fourth of 
 the weight of copperas. Put them back, and boil them 
 for half an hour ; do not leave them ; when the half 
 hour has expired, get them up, hang them to cool, and 
 rinse them. Size, and rinse, and they are done. 
 
 To Dye Cotton Stockings Black. 
 
 Boil up the same weight of sumach as you have 
 stockings, for twenty minutes ; turn it all over into a tub, 
 handle the stockings in it, and leave them until next 
 morning. Put in the copper the same weight of log- 
 woody boil it up well, and turn it into a tub through a 
 sieve ; clean out the copper, and put half the comple- 
 ment of fustic in it, and make it boil. Now take the 
 stockings out of the sumach, and melt a fourth of the 
 weight of copperas, and an eighth of the weight of blue 
 stone in warm water, and handle them well in this for 
 twenty minutes. When the time is up, take them out 
 and cool them, and give them a lime-water, and put them 
 backwards and forwards a couple of times. Rinse, and 
 give them the logwood, and then the fustic for a finish; 
 rinse, put them to drain, and they are done. 
 
 Worsted and cotton stockings are taken up to the 
 drying-room, where they are partly dried, and then put 
 on the board and legged in the same manner as the silk 
 
262 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 stockings. When all are legged, they are hung to dry 
 in a hot or cold room. I used to place them, hanging 
 by the string that is in the board, in the sun. When 
 dry they are brushed, rubbed like the silk stockings, and 
 hot-pressed for a finish. 
 
 I must again impress on the dyer the necessity of buy- 
 ing the drugs at a dyers' drysalters, and nowhere else. 
 There are not many wholesale and retail drysalters in 
 London. There is one in Longacre, two in Thames 
 street (one near Southwark bridge, and the other near 
 London bridge), one in Shoreditch ; and one in Brick 
 lane, where they will sell you from an ounce to a ton of 
 dye-stuff that may be depended on. I have an interest 
 in sending any one that will work according to my in- 
 structions to the places where he can have good dye- 
 stuff ; for I have been particular in giving the weight 
 and measurement necessary in producing a color ; and 
 see how annoying it would be to me to have rubbishing 
 dye-stuff put in the copper where I am directing how 
 to work the best dye-stuff! Besides, you will get the 
 best at a dyers' drysalters, for the same price you will pay 
 for rubbish anywhere else. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing Cotton Stockings. 
 
 Sumach them well for a night, hot sadden, cool, rinse, 
 and return in the sumach for thirty minutes ; take up, 
 and put them through the copperas again ; then rinse 
 and dye them in three parts logwood liquor and one part 
 fustic — two liquors. Wring them out of this, and get 
 the soap fat in them, with Field's soap, and wring them 
 up nearly dry out of the soap. When nearly dry, board 
 them and press them, and they are done. A centrifugal 
 wringing machine will dry them dry. A wringing ma- 
 chine is best for stockings. If they are not wrung well 
 out of the soap, they will be two colors. 
 
FEATHER DYEING. 263 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE ART OF CLEANING AND DYEING 
 
 FEATHERS. 
 
 Feathers in their Natural State. 
 
 The feather is a round, horny, transparent tube, filled 
 with musculous marrow. The feathers colored with the 
 richest hues, and forming one of the most beautiful or- 
 naments of animated nature, are to the chemist among 
 the problems the most difficult. It is not only in the 
 origin of these colors, so multiplied and diversified — the 
 cause of their variation, existing even in the continuity 
 of the same feathers — that the difficulty of this problem 
 consists. It exists with still greater force in the difference 
 of the colors which follow, and especially in that which de- 
 pends on the age of the birds and the seasons which cause 
 them to vary. And at what period will chemistry be so 
 advanced as to be able to determine with precision the 
 coloring matter and its formation 1 Boiling water 
 softens and at last destroys it; the acids and the al- 
 kalies dissolve it. Many of the coloring matters attach 
 themselves easily and adhere strongly to the feathers, 
 particularly to the plumes. It is known for ages that 
 an ingenious art exists in dyeing feathers and giving 
 them all possible tinges. — From 'Fourcroy's Chemistry,' 
 vol. x. 
 
 To Dye Feathers three different Blues in one liquor. 
 
 Feathers to be dyed pale blue must be white or pale 
 blue. The first process is cleaning in warm soap and 
 water, and well rinsing out of the soap. Scald half a 
 teacupful of neat Saxon blue (see page 60) in a long new 
 pickle jar, that will hold four quarts of water. Put your 
 blue, neat as it is, into the clean empty jar, and pour 
 
264 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 two quarts of scalding water very slowly (or it will run 
 over the jar with the heat of the scalding water) on the 
 neat spirits. While you are pouring in the water, keep 
 stirring with a clean tobacco pipe. Put about eighteen 
 inches square of clean old blanket (one of the woollen 
 corners is the best, not the old worn-out middle, for 
 there must be strength and substance in it) to suck up 
 the color. Now put your blanket in the jar and put it 
 on a shelf in a dry place until the morning. Then take 
 it up and rinse it in five or six pails of clean cold water. 
 Put two quarts of boiling water and an ounce of soda in 
 the jar first, well cleaned out, empty, and dry before 
 you use it the second time. Now put in the piece of 
 blanket and draw the blue off. If it does not come off 
 as fast as you could wish, put the jar to swim in a boil- 
 ing copper of hot water until it is all off, which you can 
 tell when the blanket is a green drab ; take the blanket 
 out directly and put it to drain into the jar ; while it is 
 draining melt four ounces of tartaric acid and put in the 
 jar; wring the blanket into the jar, hang it up to dry, 
 and commence dyeing the pale blues. 
 
 Put into a vessel eight quarts of spring water from a 
 pump (not soft water), and melt two ounces of alum 
 into it, and half a pint of the blanket blue. When 
 this is done, put in the three lots of feathers and lift 
 your vessel into the hot water copper to swim ; and when 
 it gets above blood heat take it out, and see how the 
 pale blue feathers are progressing. By this time, with- 
 out any more color, you have one lot a pale pearly blue ; 
 take it out and lay it full length on a clean cotton sheet ; 
 throw an end of the sheet over it, and press your hand 
 as gently on it as you would blotting paper on a book, 
 and shift it to a dry place until you have nearly dried it ; 
 then take it to the fire place, and put before a nice gentle 
 fire, well shaking it. Before the feathers are thoroughly 
 dry, which will be in five or six minutes, have a very 
 smooth paper, horn, or steel knife, and curl them before the 
 fire, and they are done. Now take up the two feathers 
 and put in another. Put in it a pint more of blanket 
 
FEATHER DYEING. 265 
 
 blue, lift it into the copper to swim; get it dyed twice, 
 as full as the first, and take it out of the copper ; sheet, 
 dry, and curl it in the same way as the last. Now take 
 up the other and give it another half pint of blue, and 
 dye it exactly in the same manner as the other two lots. 
 This is the best way of dyeing feathers pale blue. 
 When they are dyed this way, the color is firm ; the alum 
 makes them waterproof, so the air has no effect on them. 
 When pale blues are dyed in spirits, like the paste blue, 
 the air comes into the downy part of the feather and 
 kills the spirit, and the blue goes off directly ; not so 
 when done this way. No damp or air can get into the 
 feather although worn in the open air, and the conse- 
 quence is that the blue lasts until the feather is worn out. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing Feathers Pale Blue. 
 
 Put one pail of warm water, one ounce of tartaric 
 acid, and two ounces of paste blue in a clean vessel. Let 
 the feather remain in this until it is dyed the pale blue 
 you require. If you have more feathers for full, pale 
 blue, add to the liquor in the same way as you did in 
 the first method of dyeing pale blue, until they are all 
 done ; and when all are done, dry, and curl them in the 
 same manner as the first. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Dark Mazarine Blue. 
 
 Clean those feathers well with soap and warm water, 
 and make them a full peach color, with the blue vat (see 
 page 214) on the top of the peach body. Let them lie 
 in this cold indigo vat for two or three hours, suspended 
 from a string, and separated five or six inches apart. 
 They are to be taken up every half hour, cooled, and 
 returned in the cold vat until you have them as dark as 
 you please. Every time you take them out makes them 
 three or four shades darker. When they are dark 
 enough get them out, rinse, clean them in a warm soap, 
 and take them out of a thin soap liquor, with a little 
 
266 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 cudbear or orchil in it. Dry them at once before a fire, 
 shake them well, curl them, and they are done. 
 
 To make a small Indigo Blue Vat that will Dye Feathers 
 and small Articles of Silk, Woollen, and Cotton, Dark 
 Blue. • 
 
 Have a good strong nine-gallon cask, and put into it 
 eight gallons of chamberlye. Have a four-quart pickle 
 jar and put one pound of ground indigo into it, and on 
 the indigo put three pints of the best pickling vinegar. 
 Put a saucepan on the fire and put the jar in it, and 
 then fill the saucepan with clean cold water, the jar 
 being in the saucepan all the time. Now make this boil 
 well for two hours, and keep stirring the indigo well all 
 the time. Get it up and put it on the hob for three or 
 four days, and then pour it into the chamberlye in the 
 firkin ; rake this up twice a day for a month, and it is 
 fit for use for any of the above purposes. It must be 
 covered over with a wooden lid, or it will spoil. This 
 vat will last a long time if it is raked once a month and 
 helped with a little indigo and lye now and then ; it 
 will last for years if kept covered. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Dark Blue with Nitrate of Iron. 
 
 Put clean water in a vessel, make it taste with a 
 little tartaric acid — it must only barely taste — and put 
 nitrate of iron into it; stir it up, and put the feathers in 
 it. Now clean out a vessel, and put clean cold water in 
 it; melt prussiate in a mug, and put it in the water; 
 take the feathers out of the nitrate of iron, rinse them, 
 and put them in the prussiate; you must repeat this, 
 from one liquor to the other, six or seven times before 
 you have your color, always rinsing out of the iron 
 before you put the feathers in the prussiate. When you 
 have your color rinse in a couple of waters, and they are 
 done. 
 
 The bone of the feathers being horny and glossy, 
 
FEATHER DYEING. 267 
 
 that must be particularly attended to in the cleaning, for 
 that is the most difficult thing of all in feather dyeing. 
 The best way of getting over this difficulty is to get the 
 oil out of the surface of the feather, and make the sur- 
 face of the quill as porous as possible without hurting 
 the enamel. Before it is put in the dye, rub a piece of 
 ammonia into the horny surface ; this will soften the 
 horn without injuring the feather. It must not go on 
 the down of the feather, and must be rinsed oif before 
 going in the dye. 
 
 As I intend to give weight and measure for all the 
 drugs used in dyeing feathers, and as some require heat 
 and some not, I have selected eight quart pickling-jars 
 for the purpose of making the compound and non-com- 
 pound dyes for the different colors. The reason why 
 I select pickling-jars is because they are clean, and if 
 the dye stuff wants heating they are handy to lift in and 
 out of the copper ; when they have been used, it is easy 
 to put them by, and the drugs remaining in them are 
 nice and clean when wanted again. Large vessels are 
 not required for feathers, and dyers in the country and 
 the colonies would find the. jars very handy. This is a 
 plan that an old feather dyer in London successfully 
 carried out for a number of years. 
 
 To Dye Feathers French Blue, 
 
 We will suppose for the future that all the feathers 
 are clean and ready for dyeing, and we will never put 
 more than six quarts of water in a jar. Now put in this 
 jar one pint of preparation spirits for prussian blues, 
 and put the feather in this ; melt four ounces of red 
 prussiate in a stone mug, and stir it well ; put clean cold 
 water into a clean jar, and put the jar to swim in a hot 
 water copper. Get the feather out of the preparation, 
 rinse it in two cold waters, and put it in the jar with 
 the prussiate in it, which is swimming in the . copper ; 
 do not leave it, but keep moving it about with your 
 hand ; when the jar gets warm, get it out, take the 
 
268 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 feather out, and put it in the prussiate ; and so it must 
 be passed from one liquor to the other, five or six times, 
 until it is done. When it is done, rinse, and spirit it 
 with a little tartaric acid — very little indeed. 
 
 Remarks. — This is the most difficult color the feather 
 dyer has to do. A friend of mine, a feather dyer, was 
 complaining to me how difficult it was to dye French 
 blues on feathers. I recommended him to try "Maltby's 
 Preparation for French Blues," and gave him some ; and 
 he has been using it every week these two years to his 
 satisfaction. It is with " Maltby's Preparation" I have 
 dyed this feather French blue, and a very good blue it 
 makes on feathers. Maltby is a dyer's manufacturing 
 chemist, his residence is at Assembly row, Mile-end 
 road. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Green. 
 
 For your jar boil up two pounds of ground ebony in 
 six quarts of water, and strain it over ; boil it again, and 
 strain it over; put two ounces of ground alum and one 
 ounce of tartaric acid in ; put in the feathers, and after 
 a short time get them up, and add a little Saxon or 
 paste blue to the liquor ; handle in the feathers, and give 
 them time to drain on the blue ; and when the pale 
 greens are done, rinse in two clean waters with a little 
 sour in them to bind the color, and dry in a warm room. 
 Add a little more blue to the liquor, and dye the next 
 darkest green ; and so add yellow and blue to the green 
 liquor until all the greens are dyed. Turmeric and blue 
 make any sort of greens on feathers. If they are for 
 dark greens, they must have a warm liquor — not too 
 warm, or it will injure them. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Pink. 
 
 Clean, in warm soap, and dye them with extract of saf- 
 flower (see page 63) or pink saucers. They must be put 
 in the extract, or the pink saucer in clean warm water, 
 
FEATHER DYEING. 269 
 
 and allowed time to suck up the extract; then add a little 
 tartaric acid to the safflower, put them in, give them a 
 little time, get the mout of a clean water with a little 
 tartaric acid in it, and when dried and curled they are 
 done. 
 
 Feathers for rose or full pink must get the pink saucer 
 or safflower in clean water by itself, and the tartaric acid 
 by itself. The feather must be put in the safflower first, 
 and the liquor heated to a hand heat; and out of this it 
 must be put in cold water, with tartaric acid in it, to taste 
 sharply; then a clean cold water out of the acid, and 
 returned in the flower; and so go on, from one liquor to 
 another, until you make the feathers any pink you like, 
 from the lightest to the darkest rose pink. You must 
 finish out of the tartaric acid, and dry in a warm room ; 
 and when dry, curl them and they are finished. 
 
 Feathers for blue pink must have a slight tinge of or- 
 chil first — about the tinge of a French white. 
 
 Feathers for rose and fiery pink must have a little an- 
 notto worked in the soap when cleaning, and then be 
 rinsed and dyed with extract of safflower or pink saucers. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Orange, Ponco, and Scarlet. 
 
 Buy at Barnes's, in Long-acre, one pound of annotto, 
 and a quarter of a pound of pearlash ; boil them together 
 in one gallon of clean water, until the annotto is dis- 
 solved. Take it off the fire, and let it cool until you can 
 bear your hand in it. Begin and dye all the feathers by 
 giving them enough time in it; and when the orange is 
 full enough of annotto, get it out (leaving the other two 
 in the dye), and clean it from the dye in clean blood-warm 
 soap and water ; rinse it, give it a weak acid for a finish, 
 and when dried and curled it is done. 
 
 The ponco and scarlet are next, and must be cleaned 
 and spirited like the orange color. These two colors must 
 have extract of safflower, or pink saucers on the top of 
 the annotto, to make them ponco or scarlet. For the 
 method of doing this, I must refer my readers to the di- 
 
270 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 rections in the preceding page for dyeing rose. Ponco 
 being a bastard scarlet must not have the best of the 
 dye-stuff — certainly not ; it must be second to the scar- 
 let as a matter of course. The feathers for these colors 
 are not cleaned before they get the annotto; they are 
 cleaned afterwards, before they are reddened with the 
 safflower and acid. 
 
 The annotto the feathers were dyed in, is to be saved, 
 as they have not weakened the annotto more than about 
 two ounces in the sixteen ounces. It must be covered 
 over in a jar and kept very clean, and when wanted it 
 must be heated up again, and half an ounce of pearlash 
 and one ounce of soap put in it every time it is used. 
 It can be helped with fresh annotto each time, but I do 
 not like that way, I prefer to work it down with buff, 
 leghorn, and salmon colors. Annotto is cheap, and the 
 fresher it is the better are the colors, and I always 
 make it a point to produce the best colors I can on my 
 own work .never minding the expense. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Black. 
 
 Put in your earthen jar, as before described, eight 
 quarts of water, and one quart of nitrate of iron; clean 
 the feathers, and put them in this twelve hours. Get 
 them out, rinse in three clean cold waters, and dye 
 them with three quarts of logwood liquor, and three 
 quarts of fustic liquor. Make a thin soap liquor with 
 the prepared soft soap and oil (see page 82). Now put 
 the jar to swim in a boiling-water copper, and the 
 feathers in the jar, and make the dye-stuff' as hot as you 
 can bear your hands in it, the feathers being in the jar 
 all the time. When they have sucked the logwood and 
 fustic, take them up and give them a quarter of an ounce 
 of turmeric in the same liquor, and a quarter of an hour 
 more time. Get them up and clean them in three 
 blood-warm soap liquors, and dry out of soap ; when dry, 
 jet them with a little neats-foot oil, rubbed on the hands; 
 then curl them, and they are done. 
 
FEATHER DYEING. 271 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing the above. 
 
 Prepare in your jar one pound of green copperas, 
 a quarter of a pound of bluestone, and a quarter of a 
 pound of argol, all well melted, and put in eight quarts 
 of clean cold water. Put the feathers in this for two or 
 three days, stirring them gently twice a day. Get them 
 out and dye them with four quarts of strong logwood 
 liquor, and four quarts of fustic liquor in a jar. Rinse 
 them, and put them in this liquor, and let them lie in it 
 until they are black; then rinse in clean cold water; and 
 when dry, jet them with a little oil on the hands; then 
 curl them, and they are finished. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Mar one, Ruby, Claret, Brown, and 
 
 Rappee. 
 
 To eight quarts of water put one pound of the best 
 cudbear, well mixed ; then put in the feathers for marone, 
 ruby, and claret; make the dye liquor as hot as you can 
 bear your hands in it. Get them up, and the ruby is 
 dyed ; put a quarter of a pound of turmeric in the liquor, 
 and put the marone and claret back ; heat it up again, 
 and when hot enough, take them out, and the marone 
 is dyed. Melt a quarter of a pound of copperas in a 
 pail of warm water, and put the claret in it for five 
 minutes ; rinse it out of the copperas, put it back in the 
 dye-stuff, and re-heat it for ten minutes; then take it up, 
 rinse it, and it is done. The brown feathers are now to 
 follow in the dye-stuff that is left. They will want to 
 be saddened and returned three or four times before you 
 can get them the color you require. Now when dyed, 
 they require good rinsing. When dry, curl them, and 
 they are done. 
 
 Kemarks.— This is the simplest and best way of dyeing 
 feathers the above colors. 
 
272 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Crimson, Ruby, Mar one, and Claret. 
 
 Clean in soap and rinse. Melt one pound of alum in 
 your jar with hot water. Put eight quarts of cold water 
 in your jar; put the melted alum in it, and then the 
 feathers, and let them lie in it a couple of days ; boil up, 
 in six quarts of water, one pound of Brazil, strain it off, 
 and boil it again in six more quarts of water, and strain 
 it off. You must boil it a third time in like manner, 
 and throw away the Brazil grounds: they are no good. 
 Begin and dye the feathers the crimson first, by taking 
 it out of the alum and rinsing it in one cold water. 
 Put six quarts of pure Brazil liquor in the jar, and put 
 the crimson feathers in it and dye it ; and when it is the 
 crimson you require, take it out, rinse in one cold water, 
 dry in a warm room, curl it, and it is done. 
 
 The ruby must be done in like manner with* half a 
 pint of blue orchil in the Brazil liquor, but it must have 
 a strong heat to get up the orchil — as hot as your hands 
 will bear it will do. 
 
 The marone and claret must have a quarter of a pound 
 of turmeric in the Brazil and orchil liquor, and more of 
 the Brazil liquor : give these two colors a quarter of an 
 hour in the dye, and the marone is dyed. 
 
 Melt two ounces of copperas in a couple of quarts of 
 water, and sadden the claret-color feathers in it ; rinse 
 them and return in the dye-stuff for ten minutes ; get 
 them up, rinse, dry, curl, and they are done. 
 
 Remarks. — This is a roundabout way of dyeing these 
 colors, but not half so bad as many other ways 1 have 
 seen. There are none so good as the above two ways. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Buff, Salmon, Primrose and Leghorn. 
 
 Clean and dye the buff and salmon with half a pint 
 of the annotto liquor (that was left after dyeing the 
 scarlet) in a jar with six quarts of clean water, and one 
 ounce of soda in it. Heat it up to hand-heat with the 
 feathers in it. Take them out and rinse. Give the 
 
FEATHER DYEING. 273 
 
 salmon color a little acid in the rinsing, to redden the 
 annotto ; and when dried and curled, it is done. The 
 buff is to be cleaned in soap out of the dye, and rinsed 
 in clean water, and it is done when dry and curled. For 
 primrose and leghorn, boil half a pound of ground ebony 
 in two quarts of clean water for ten minutes, and strain 
 it into four quarts of clean cold water, in a pan or jar ; 
 put the leghorn and primrose feathers in it, and if they 
 don't draw on the color as quick as you wish, give them 
 heat until they are dyed as full as you want them. 
 Finish them by rinsing with a little sour in the rinsing 
 waters, dry and curl, and they are done. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Puce and Violet. 
 
 Clean in soap, and put four quarts of clean water in 
 a jar, and melt a quarter of a pound of alum in it; put 
 the feathers in this for twelve hours, then get them out 
 and rinse them in a cold water, and dye the puce with 
 one quart of logwood liquor, and one quart of peach- 
 wood to four quarts of water, got on to hand-heat in a 
 jar ; when they are full enough in this liquor, take them 
 out, throw the liquor away, and put four quarts of clean 
 water in the jar, adding half a pint of logwood and 
 half a pint of peachwood liquors. Put the puce color 
 feathers in this, and heat it up gently to hand-heat, and 
 they are dyed puce color. This last liquor is what we 
 call giving it a thin liquor of dye-stuff; it cleanses and 
 improves the color. Some dyers work a cupful of blue 
 orchil in this second liquor ; it improves the color very 
 much. These feathers must now have a couple of cold 
 waters for a finish, and when dried and curled they are 
 done. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Violet. 
 
 These feathers having been prepared in alum with the 
 puces, we will dye them violet. Putting one quart of 
 logwood liquor to four quarts of water in a jar, heat it 
 18 
 
274 loye's dyer and scourer. 
 
 up to hand-heat with the feathers in it. Take the 
 feathers up, throw the liquor away, and make up a sim- 
 ilar liquor in the jar with a teacupful of blue orchil in 
 it. Put the feathers in this liquor, and heat it up to 
 hand-heat, and they are dyed violet. Give them two 
 clean cold waters, dry, and curl. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing Feathers Puce and Violet. 
 
 Put in the jar three quarts of logwood liquor, and 
 three quarts of clean cold water; put in this liquor .the 
 feathers for puce and violet, and heat it up to hand-heat. 
 Take the feathers out, put in the liquor a teacupful of 
 muriate of tin, put the feathers back into it, and let 
 them lie in it until it cools, and then get them up and 
 rinse in two clean cold waters, and the puce is dyed, and 
 when curled, finished. The violet is now to have four 
 quarts of clean water and half a teacupful of scalded 
 Saxon blue in the jar, and to have time in it, without 
 heat, until you have the shade of violet you require. 
 When the feathers are the color you want, get them out 
 and rinse in two separate pailsful of clean water, with 
 a little common sour in each water, and they are dyed a 
 cheap and strong violet color. There are other methods 
 of dyeing puce and violet, but the above are the best. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Amber and Yellow. 
 
 Clean and dye these colors with quercitron bark, weld, 
 fustic, and turmeric. * They must have a tinge of an- 
 notto on them when they are for amber. They must be 
 prepared in cold alum for any yellowish dye-stuff except 
 turmeric, which is a self-color. The quantities of pre- 
 paration and drugs are — ten parts to one of feathers. 
 The drugs must be boiled well, and strained, and the 
 feathers must be dyed in the liquor. Turmeric must be 
 scalded, not boiled, or strained when scalded. Put the 
 feathers in for five minutes, get them up, put a little 
 tartaric acid in the liquor, and return them for Hwe 
 
FEATHER DYEING. 275 
 
 minutes, and they are dyed. Rinse, dry, and curl, and 
 they are done. This is the easiest method for ambers 
 and yellow. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Cinnamon and Cinnamon Brown. 
 
 Clean and put as good a body of annotto on these 
 two colors as you would if they were for scarlet ; top 
 off the cinnamon with a little fustic liquor, and orchil 
 (half a pint), heated to a hand-heat. Rinse, dry, and 
 curl, and the feathers are done. 
 
 Put the cinnamon-brown in the yellow and red liquor 
 that the cinnamon left ; give ten minutes ; get it up and 
 sadden it' in clean water, with a little copperas melted 
 into it. Handle the feathers in, then rinse, and return 
 it in the dye-stuff, until you make them any brown you 
 like — light or dark ; rinse, dry, and curl, and they are 
 done. 
 
 To Dip and Clean Black Feathers. 
 
 There are plenty of black feathers that only want 
 cleaning. They are, in the first place, stuffed with dye- 
 stuff in the first dyeing ; and, to make it worse, the 
 feather-dyers make it a rule to give black feathers 
 plenty of oil after they are dyed, to jet them. Now 
 when this oil and dirt are removed by the soap and 
 water (mind, there must be nothing else), the feather 
 will show what it is, and the black too. When feathers 
 are a rusty black, give them copperas, and warm water; 
 then rinse the acid out of the copperas, and give them 
 a warm liquor of logwood and soap ; dry out of it, and 
 curl, and they are done. They, want a little oil, how- 
 ever, to jet and gloss them, for, like human hair, they 
 want it after cleaning or dyeing. It is not seen 
 or felt on them, the curling before the fire takes it off — 
 even then they look and feel so much better for it. 
 
276 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Lavender, Drab, and Slate. 
 
 Lavender is dyed with orchil, first, a full French 
 white, and then bluing it by dipping in clean spring 
 water, with a little alurn in it, and scalded Saxon blue. 
 The blue must be used with care. Lavender is often 
 dyed with logwood and muriate of tin, very weak. 
 
 Drabs are dyed with sumach, saddening, and fustic, 
 and reddened with orchil and fustic to clean them. 
 
 Drabs are dyed with cudbear, fustic, and copperas, by 
 giving the copperas first, then a rinse in clean cold 
 water, and fustic, cudbear, and sumach ; rinse, dry, and 
 curl. 
 
 Slate color is dyed with logwood first, then saddened, 
 and a thin liquor of blue orchil to clean it. 
 
 Slate color is also dyed with sumach first, and then 
 saddened in copperas and water, if for a light slate. If 
 for a dark slate, it must have a little logwood in the 
 sumach, and be returned in the saddening; in the rins- 
 ing it must have a very weak sour. Dry, and curl, and 
 the work is done. 
 
 Most people think if they wet a feather thoroughly, 
 dye, or not dye, that they must spoil it. That is absurd. 
 A feather will clean, dye, and dry as easily as anything 
 else ; but it must not be handled roughly. No other 
 care is required. It must not be wrung, but the liquor 
 must be combed out of it by hand, and the feather laid 
 flat on a dry sheet and covered over, and the hand 
 passed over the sheet and shifted in the sheet until dry. 
 All feathers do not require this, and will dry very well 
 in a warm room. 
 
BONNET DYEING. 277 
 
 CHIP, STRAW, AND LEGHORN BONNETS. 
 
 To Clean Bonnets. 
 
 Make a clean warm soap liquor ; put the chip, straw, 
 and leghorn bonnets in it, and rub them well inside and 
 out with a brush ; when this is done, rinse and bleach 
 them. Some persons bleach them with salts of sorrel 
 or oxalic acid, and some with brimstone. When they 
 are bleached with salts of sorrel or oxalic acid, it is put 
 in a clean vessel, and as much scalding water put on it 
 as will barely cover one bonnet at a time. Have a clean 
 stick, and, putting the bonnet into the salts, keep it 
 under the liquor five minutes ; take it up, and put 
 in another for five minutes ; and then the third for the 
 same time, when the three are cleaned, and ready for 
 sizing or gumming when dry. For bleaching in brim- 
 stone, see page 137 ; but I do not recommend it, on ac- 
 count of the bonnets getting yellow so soon after they 
 are bleached in this manner. Salts of sorrel and oxalic 
 acid are both good, in my opinion. 
 
 All bonnets for dyeing, except for black, must be well 
 cleaned, but not bleached, before they are dyed. Parch- 
 ment size is best to stiffen white bonnets or light 
 colors. It is sold at Fox's, in Compton street, Soho 
 square, ready for use. Three-penny-worth, heated up 
 without water in it, will be plenty to stiffen three bon- 
 nets, but it must be well worked in — wrong side first. 
 Give them enough, but do not slop them. After this 
 dry them, and then damp, block, and wire them, and 
 they are fit for use. 
 
 To Dye Bonnets Peach. 
 
 To Dye one chip bonnet peach color, put four ounces 
 of cudbear in one gallon of water, make it boil, and put 
 one ounce of soda in the liquor. Put the bonnet into 
 
278 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 the liquor, and boil it well for half an hour. Take it 
 up, cool, rinse it in two cold waters, and dry it in a warm 
 place ; and when dry, get one pound of the best size 
 (Young's, of Bermondsey, is the best) and melt it in a 
 teacupful of water, and with a small clean sponge size 
 the bonnet all over, first doing the inside and finishing 
 with the outside. This sizing must be done clean and 
 regular all over the bonnet. It is best to put a clean 
 cloth of some sort on a table or board, and sponge the 
 size into the bonnet on it. It must now be dried, and 
 when dry, damped with clean water and blocked ; and 
 after it is blocked, it must be wired and shaped, when 
 it is fit for use. 
 
 Remarks. — I have confined myself to dyeing one 
 bonnet peach color, but the dye and size that are left, 
 without any addition, would dye another ; and with the 
 addition of more and other drugs, I could continue to 
 dye many colors. But if I were to adopt that many- 
 color principle in one liquor, I should never have done 
 writing ; so I will only dye one or two colors with the 
 dye-stuff liquor I begin any color with for the future. 
 
 To Dye Bonnets Silver Gray, 
 
 Boil two ounces of cudbear in one gallon of water, 
 with half an ounce of alum and a quarter of an ounce of 
 extract of indigo. Put the chip bonnet into this liquor, 
 and boil it for twenty minutes. Take up and cool, and 
 if not full enough, return, and boil it again for twenty 
 minutes more. Take out, cool, and rinse in a couple of 
 waters ; dry and size, damp, block and wire as before 
 directed. 
 
 To Dye Bonnets Blue. 
 
 To one gallon of water, one ounce of alum, and one 
 ounce of extract of indigo, put the chip bonnet, and 
 scald it for twenty minutes ; then get it up, and rinse in 
 a weak acid water ; dry in a warm place as quickly as 
 
BONNET DYEING. 279 
 
 possible ; and when dry, size, damp, block and wire as 
 before directed. 
 
 To Dye Bonnets French Blue. 
 
 In one gallon of water put half an ounce of crude 
 tartar and half a pound of copperas ; boil the chip 
 bonnet in this five minutes ; get it up and rinse it. In 
 another vessel, melt one ounce of yellow prussiate in one 
 gallon of water. Put the prepared bonnet into this, and 
 boil it for five minutes ; get it up, and without rinsing, 
 put it back into the copperas, and simmer it for five 
 minutes ; get it up, rinse it, and return it in the prus- 
 siate ; and so go on, giving it five minutes in the prus- 
 siate and five minutes in the copperas, until you have 
 any dark blue you like or want ; size and finish as before 
 directed. 
 
 To Dye Bonnets Light Fawn. 
 
 Boil four ounces of sumach, four ounces of crop mad- 
 der, four ounces of old fustic, and half an ounce of alum 
 in one gallon of water ; and put your chip, straw, or leg- 
 horn bonnet in this liquor, and boil it for ten minutes. 
 Melt four ounces of copperas in one gallon of cold water, 
 put the bonnet in it, and let it stop in for ten minutes ; 
 then get it up, and rinse it in two pails of clean cold 
 water ; return it in the first liquor, boil it well therein 
 for ten minutes, and it is done. Dry, size, and finish as 
 before directed. 
 
 To Dye Bonnets Lavender and Slate. 
 
 In four gallons of water put four pounds of logwood, 
 one ounce of alum, one ounce of bluestone, one ounce 
 of soda, and four ounces of blue orchil. Boil the chip, 
 straw, or the leghorn bonnet in this, for half an hour ; 
 get it up, rinse it, and the chip is done lavender. Put 
 in the dye half an ounce of copperas and two ounces of 
 
280 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 muriate of tin ; put the straw and leghorn bonnets back 
 into this liquor, boil them well in it for one hour, and 
 they are done slate color. Get them up, rinse them in 
 four or five clean cold waters, dry in a warm room, and 
 then size and finish as before directed. 
 
 To Dye two dozen Chip, Straw, and Leghorn Bonnets 
 
 Black. 
 
 Get seven pounds of Cam peachy logwood, and two 
 pounds of copperas. Put all the logwood in a copper 
 that will hold six pails of water, and make it boil for 
 ten minutes. Sort out one dozen of straw bonnets, and 
 put them in the logwood while it is boiling, one by one, 
 and give them a good boil for half an hour ; then fill 
 the copper with cold water, open the copper door, and 
 put the bonnets to drain out of the copper. Now put 
 in the other dozen of bonnets to boil for one hour, 
 leaving your boy to see that they don't stick to the 
 copper and burn. Have a vessel that will hold eight 
 pails of cold water, into which melt the two pounds of 
 copperas ; stir it well, handle the first dozen of bonnets 
 in it, and leave them for half an hour ; make up two 
 rinsing waters, take up the bonnets out of the copperas 
 to drain, rinse them in two cold waters, and drain them. 
 Take the second dozen of bonnets out of the copper to 
 drain, throw them into the copperas water, and then 
 leave them. Put the first lot of bonnets back again in 
 the boiling logwood, and boil them well for half an 
 hour. Take the second lot out of the saddening, rinse 
 them, throw the first lot that is in the boil into the sad- 
 dening, and they are dyed. Now put the second lot 
 into the logwood again, boil them well for half an hour, 
 throw them into the saddening also, and they are dyed. 
 Rinse all the bonnets in a couple of clean waters, and 
 put them to dry ; when dry, well brush and size them. 
 Dry out of the size, and block them ; when blocked, 
 wire, and rub a little oil on a black rubber or brush, 
 
BONNET DYEING. 281 
 
 and with it touch each bonnet regularly over, and they 
 are ready for the customers. 
 
 Remarks. — The reader will see that I have dyed, 
 rinsed, and hung up these two dozen of bonnets in four 
 hours, and they could not be done in that time only that 
 I saddened, rinsed, and returned them a second time in 
 the logwood. If the number is less, there must be less 
 dye-stuff used, and if more, there must be more drugs. 
 
 To Dye Bonnets, Chocolate Brown. 
 
 In two gallons of water boil one pound of logwood 
 chips, one pound of redwood, and one pound of fustic 
 chips ; boil one straw and one chip bonnet in this liquor 
 for one hour, and get out on a peg to drain. Now melt 
 one pound of copperas in a pail of clean cold water, and 
 handle the bonnets in this for ten minutes, and then get 
 them out and rinse them in a couple of clean waters, 
 and return them in the dye-stuff, and boil them well 
 again for one hour, and the chip bonnet is done. Sad- 
 den the straw bonnet a second time, rinse, and return it 
 in the dye-stuff again, and boil well for twenty minutes ; 
 get it up and it is done. Now rinse both these bonnets, 
 and when dry, brush them well before you size them, 
 dry them after the size, then damp, block, and wire 
 them, and they are finished. 
 
 To Dye Bonnets Devonshire Brown. 
 
 In my instructions to dye these bonnets, the reader 
 must observe that all and every one of them must be well 
 cleaned with warm soap and water, and well rinsed be- 
 fore they are fit to be dyed. Now we will begin and 
 dye one chip, and one straw bonnet, Devonshire brown, 
 by first boiling them in a clean vessel, in one pound of 
 grounpl alum, and one ounce of bluestone, for one hour. 
 Then get them up out of this preparation, and rinse them 
 well in a couple of clean waters. Put in a vessel that 
 will hold four gallons of water, one pound of peach- 
 
282 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 wood, one pound of redwood, one pound of fustic, and 
 a quarter, of a pound of logwood ; make all these woods 
 boil for ten minutes, and then put in your two bonnets, 
 and boil them well in this for one hour ; get them out 
 and hang them on a wooden peg to drain. Melt one 
 pound of copperas in a pailful of clean water, and handle 
 the bonnets in this for a quarter of an hour, get them 
 up, and rinse in a couple of waters, return them again 
 in the dye-stuff, and boil them in this another hour, and 
 the chip is done ; if the straw is wanted to be darker, 
 it must be put through the copperas again, rinsed, and 
 boiled for ten minutes in the dye-stuff, and it is done. 
 Now rinse the two bonnets, dry them, and well brush them 
 before they are sized. Dry them after the size, damp, 
 block, and wire, and they are finished ready for use. 
 
 This is the most difficult color the cocoa-nut fibre mat 
 makers and straw and chip bonnet-dyers have to dye; 
 and the sole cause of these failures is, that they do not 
 prepare their work in a proper manner, to take the dye- 
 stuff. Their system is to boil in the dye stuff first, and 
 then get up the work, and put the preparation in the 
 dye-stuff, which stops any more color going on. But it 
 does not stop the cocoa-nut fibre, the chip, or the straw get- 
 ting a darker color, not a richer color, which these dyers 
 most want. 
 
 To Dye Chip Bonnets Lilac and Slate. 
 
 In one gallon of water boil one pint of blue orchil, 
 one ounce of logwood chips, one ounce of soda, one 
 ounce of ground alum, and one pound of common size. 
 Boil the chip bonnet in this liqour one hour, get it out 
 to cool and drain on a peg, rinse it in two cold waters, 
 dry it in a warm room, and when dry size and dry it ; 
 then damp, block, and wire it, and it is ready for use. 
 
 A bonnet can be dyed slate color with this same dye- 
 stuff by boiling it for half an hour therein ; get it up to 
 cool ; in a pailful of warm water melt four ounces of 
 copperas, and handle the bonnet in this liquor for ten 
 
BONNET DYEING. 283 
 
 minutes ; rinse it, return in the dye-stuff, boil it well for 
 half an hour, get it out and rinse it in a couple of waters, 
 dry it, and when dry, size, dry, and finish it as before 
 directed. The dyeing of this last bonnet slate color 
 without any more dye-stuff being added to the liquor 
 helps to cover the cost of dyeing the first bonnet. This 
 plan must be adopted for one color to follow another 
 in the same dye-stuff, to make dyeing of any sort pay. 
 
 To Dye Chip and Straw Bonnets Purple. 
 
 In a vessel that will hold two gallons of water put 
 one pound of alum and one ounce of bluestone ; boil 
 two bonnets well in this preparation one hour ; then 
 get them up on a peg to drain, cool, and rinse. 
 
 The vessel in which they were boiled in alum will do 
 to dye them in, after throwing away the alum liquor 
 and cleaning the vessel well. Fill it with clean water, 
 and put in it one pound of logwood chips and one ounce 
 of soda, and boil these well for half an hour. Strain 
 the liquor into a clean vessel ; clean the vessel in which 
 you boiled the logwood, and return the logwood liquor 
 back without a single chip in it. If the liquor has re- 
 duced in boiling, fill it with water so as to have two gal- 
 lons. Put the bonnets in this logwood liquor, the straw 
 one a quarter of an hour before the chip, and boil them 
 well for half an hour. Get them up to cool, and put 
 in the liquor, half a pint of orchil liquor. Then put the 
 bonnets back, and boil them for twenty minutes. They 
 may now be got up, and rinsed in a couple of waters ; 
 dry them, and when dry stiffen, block, and wire them, 
 and they are ready for use. 
 
 Remarks. — If the alum, logwood, and orchil were all 
 boiled together with the bonnets, they would make a 
 purple, but of such an indifferent sort that it could not 
 bear a comparison with this ; and the cause is, that 
 they were prepared in one liquor and dyed in the pure 
 dye-stuff in another. It is a sure, clean and safe method, 
 but because it takes time the bonnet dyers will not like 
 
284 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 it ; they like the color well, but they do not like the 
 time it costs— the same dye-stuff will do. 
 
 To Dye Bonnets and Cocoa-nut Fibre different Greens. 
 
 We will presume that the cocoa-nut fibre is about as 
 much in quantity as the bonnets. Boil up one pound 
 of ground ebony in four gallons of water, three ounces 
 of alum, and two ounces of the blue extract of indigo. 
 Now boil the chips in these three for half an hour, take 
 them out to cool, and the chip bonnet will do. Put it 
 by, return the straw and fibre, and give them another 
 half an hour's boil ; then get them up, and rinse the 
 bonnets and fibre in two cold waters with a little sour 
 in them, and dry ; size the bonnets when dry, and finish 
 them in the usual manner. 
 
 Now this liquor, with a little addition of blue and 
 yellow, will dye as much more work a grass green ; and 
 after they are dyed, half a pound of turmeric and four 
 ounces of blue extract of indigo added to it, will dye 
 the same quantity of work myrtle green ; and, with an 
 addition of blue only, a still darker green. This liquor 
 saved, and a little blue added to it, will dye as much 
 more of the above work, by letting it lie three or four 
 days in the cold liquor. 
 
 To Dye Bonnets Pearl Gray. 
 
 In four gallons of water boil four ounces of nutgalls 
 ground, half a pound of blue orchil, one ounce of blue- 
 stone or verdigris, and one ounce of white argol. Boil 
 the two chip bonnets in this liquor twenty minutes ; 
 take them up, cool them, and return them for twenty 
 minutes longer ; get them up, rinse them in a couple 
 of waters, dry them, and when dry, size and finish them 
 as directed before. 
 
BONNET DYEING. 285 
 
 To make Parchment Size. 
 
 Take one pound of parchment shavings or cuttings, 
 and wash them well in cold waters. Put four quarts of 
 water in a vessel ; put the parchment in it, and boil it 
 gently down from four quarts to two quarts, and strain 
 it through a fine sieve into a clean vessel, and it is fit 
 for use. A teacupful of this is enough for one bonnet, 
 and is enough for one quart of water for finishing silks. 
 Put the rest to cool in a clean jug, and, when cool, it 
 looks exactly like calf's-foot jelly. 
 
 This is the first boil of the cuttings. For the second 
 put two quarts of clean water, and re-boil them for half 
 an hour ; take them off the fire, strain into a separate 
 vessel from the first, and throw the cuttings away. In 
 the second boil if you allow too long all the cuttings 
 will dissolve in the liquor, and you will make a mess of 
 it, and it will not be fit to use. There are two or three 
 sorts of parchment cuttings, btft I recommend the best 
 as the cheapest. The best is sixpence a pound. I 
 bought it at Fox's, Artist's Size and Colorman, Compton 
 Street, Soho Square. 
 
 We use this size for finishing our silks, satins, velvets, 
 and ribbons, whether cleaned or dyed ; it is the best 
 that can be made. A less quantity can be bought and 
 made than a pound. 
 
 To Dye Bonnets Mar one and Crimson. 
 
 Have a clean vessel that will hold four gallons of 
 water, and put into it one pound of ground alum, and 
 half a pound of crimson spirits ; put your two bonnets 
 into this liquor, and boil them well in it for one hour ; 
 get them up and rinse them ; throw away this liquor out 
 of the vessel ; clean it well, and put into it two pounds 
 of peach wood chips, and boil them well for half an hour, 
 with the bonnets in it ; get them up and cool, and re- 
 turn the bonnets ; boil them again for another half-hour, 
 and get them up to drain; the crimson bonnet is now 
 
286 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 dyed. Put in the peachwood liquor one ounce of tur- 
 meric, and put the bonnet for marone back into this 
 liquor, boil it well for half an hour, and it is done. Now 
 rinse in two clean waters and dry, and when dry, size, 
 then damp, block, wire, and they are ready for use. 
 These colors are very seldom worn in bonnets, they are 
 generally dyed in the bundle or plait, and worked in. As 
 mixed str.aw bonnets they are difficult colors to dye, 
 unless well prepared with a strong mordant. Cudbear 
 only will dye ruby, crimson, and marone ; it is a very 
 simple process, and one pound will dye three bonnets. 
 In three gallons of water, put one pound of the best 
 cudbear, and one ounce of soda ; put the bonnets in, 
 and boil them well for half an hour, get them out, and 
 the ruby is done ; put the other two back, and boil an- 
 other half-hour, get them up, and give the one for crim- 
 son, a little sour in a pail of water, with a rinse after, 
 and it is done. Now put one ounce of turmeric in the 
 cudbear, and put the bonnet for marone in, and boil it 
 well for ten minutes, then take it up, and rinse it in two 
 clean waters, dry, size, and finish, and they are done. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing Black and Olive. 
 
 Take four bonnets, that is to say, one straw and one 
 Leghorn, for black, and one straw and one Leghorn for 
 olive ; put one pound of copperas, and four ounces of blue 
 stone in a vessel that will hold four gallons of water, 
 and make it boil before the copperas and blue stone is 
 put in. When these are in, put in the four bonnets, 
 and boil them well for one hour ; take them up, and put 
 them on a peg to cool and rinse. Throw away the mor- 
 dant preparation out of the vessel, rinse it well and put 
 in one pound of Campeachy logwood, and one pound of 
 miravelines, well pounded ; make these boil, and put in 
 your two bonnets for black ; boil them well in it for one 
 hour, and then take them out, and they are dyed jet 
 black. Now put in this liquor one pound of ground 
 fustic, and the two bonnets for olive ; boil them well in 
 
BONNET DYEING. 287 
 
 this liquor for one hour, and they are dyed olive. The 
 dye-stuff that is left after dyeing these bonnets black and 
 olive, will dye two more bonnets, or an equal quantity 
 of straw or chip plait, light olive, by putting them in, 
 and boiling them in it for one hour ; then take them up, 
 and put in the dye-stuff one ounce of copperas, and 
 return, and boil well in it for half an hour, and they are 
 dyed a good light olive. Rinse the six bonnets in three 
 or four cold waters, and dry ; when dry, brush, then 
 size, and dry ; damp, block, and wire, and they are ready 
 for use. 
 
 Remarks. — Chip bonnets of plait do not want so 
 much dyeing as straw. Cocoa-nut fibre being a vege- 
 table production, will take the dye if prepared and dyed 
 in the same manner as the chip or straw. 
 
 To make Size for Black, Brown, and Olive Bonnets. 
 
 For one dozen of bonnets dyed black, whether chip, 
 straw, or Leghorn : get one pound of the best glue, break 
 it and leave it to steep in four quarts of cold water, over 
 night, and in the morning put it in a saucepan on the 
 fire to dissolve ; it must not be left, but kept well stirred 
 all the time, scalded, but not boiled, and when it is all 
 well melted, which it will take some time to do, strain 
 it into an earthen pan, and begin and stiffen the black 
 bonnets and plait, one by one in the hot liquor (you 
 must always keep it too hot for your hands, while using 
 it), and as you get each bonnet out, you must sponge it 
 as dry as you can while the bonnet is warm, regulate 
 the shape and the plaits, and hang it up to dry, and so 
 go on one after the other until the dozen are done, which 
 will take about an hour to size in this manner. Where 
 there are a quantity, and a large size pan of liquor, a 
 dozen can be done in half the time. The dark-colored 
 bonnets are to be stiffened in a similar manner, and to 
 go on in the stiffening before the blacks. The black 
 bonnets when dyed are very brown, but the hot glue 
 stiffening takes all that off, and makes them jet directly. 
 
288 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 Common, or parchment size will not do it; it is done by 
 an oil rubber when these sizes are used. All dark-col- 
 ored bonnets must be well brushed before they are sized. 
 If there is only one bonnet to dye and stiffen, it is easy 
 to count that if twelve bonnets took so much dye-stuff 
 and size, how much will one take \ The time it takes 
 in dyeing one or a dozen is the same. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 THE ART OF CLEANING AND SCOURING. 
 
 I think that the following chapter cannot be better 
 introduced to my readers than in quoting a few remarks 
 from 'Oberlin's Tracts' on Dirt: — 
 
 " The dictionary tells us that dirt is ' whatever ad- 
 hering to any thing renders it foul or unclean.' Our 
 eyes tell us that it takes away the beauty of whatever 
 it touches. Our noses tell us that it is extremely dis- 
 gusting. And our feelings tell us that it is repugnant 
 to health and comfort and purity and social enjoyment. 
 Dirt is not part of our nature ; it is a parasite thriving 
 on our heart's blood, like a vampire. They say the vam- 
 pire sucks away the life, without the poor patient's 
 knowing anything about it. It is just the same with 
 dirt. Four-fifths of mankind live in dirt, and lose a 
 large part of their health in consequence. What is it 
 that robs the working classes, in many of our large 
 towns, of nearly half their natural term of life'? Dirt, 
 dirt on the person, in the houses, in the streets, and in 
 the air. What is it that makes the children fretful, 
 impatient, and bad-tempered \ Dirt again. What is 
 it that keeps rich people from associating with the poor, 
 from sitting by them at meetings, or letting them come to 
 their houses 1 Often, not so much pride, as dirt. What 
 is it that destroys self-respect, makes men careless and 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 289 
 
 degraded, and weakens the natural restraint of modesty? 
 Dirt, again. "What is it that makes the prettiest face 
 ugly, the finest clothes tawdry, the cleverest man disa- 
 greeable, and the most splendid house uninhabitable ? 
 Dirt, again." 
 
 To Dry-clean English, Brussels, Persian, and Turkey 
 Carpets and Tapestry, 
 
 Have them taken up and well beaten, brushed, laid 
 flat on a floor, and the spots taken out by rubbing a 
 piece of hard soap on the greasy spot, and rubbing it 
 out with a brush and clean cold water, well drying each 
 spot as it is done with a cloth before you leave it. Cut 
 a bar of the best mottled soap into two gallons of water, 
 and put it on the fire to dissolve, and when dissolved, 
 begin and scour the carpet in the .manner following: 
 take two pails of blood-warm water, and put in one of 
 them two quarts of the melted soap to scour the carpet with, 
 and the other pail of warm water is to rinse the soap 
 and dirt out of the carpet as you go on with the clean- 
 ing, which must be done at less than one square yard at 
 a time. Now dip a brush into the pail with the soap in 
 it, and lift it out on the carpet, and scour about a square 
 yard at a time, while on the knees, and do it so as not 
 to let it go through to the back of the carpet ; when 
 this spot or yard is cleaned well with a soap and brush, 
 rub the soap well out by means of a flannel or coarse 
 sponge, and suck up in the sponge or flannel the wet and 
 dirt that was made on the carpet by the scouring-brush, 
 by rinsing the flannel in a pail of clean water repeatedly. 
 Have a pail of clean cold water and a little common 
 sour in it, and have a clean sponge and dip it in the 
 sour, squeeze it well, kneel down and rub the sponge 
 well into the spot you have first cleaned and rinsed. 
 Now this spot must be dried with clean coarse cotton or 
 linen cloth, before you leave it as properly done, and be- 
 fore you proceed with another yard of the carpet. 
 19 
 
290 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 Cleaning carpets dry exemplifies the old saying, and the 
 true one, " you should rub off as you go." And so you 
 must go on square after square yard, until the carpet is 
 entirely cleaned. A good fire ought to be in the room 
 to help to dry it on the floor, as fast as it is done. The 
 floor must be clean and dry before you begin to scour 
 the carpet, and the carpet beat and laid down. 
 
 Remarks. — I have cleaned this carpet with the best 
 soap, but I do not like it so well as Feild's oil soap, for 
 after the mottled soap is melted, it congeals as it gets 
 cold, whereas Feild's never congeals after it is once 
 melted, and Feild's is the cheapest. It is to be had at 
 Legg's, in Wardour street, Soho, and Barnes's, Longacre, 
 and of the makers, Messrs. Feild, Fore street, Lambeth. 
 
 Second Method to Dry-clean Carpets. 
 
 Have the carpet'you are going to clean well beaten, 
 brushed, and put on a clean floor ; remove the grease 
 spots out of it with fullers' earth, gall, and water, and 
 a hard scouring-brush, and well rinse the spots and rub 
 them dry before you begin to clean the carpet. Have a 
 bag of bullock's gall, very fresh (a slaughter-house is the 
 best place to have it from), and put two gallons of clean 
 cold water in a pail, and melt four ounces of pearlash 
 in it, and then put the gall in and mix it well with a 
 stick, or your hand. Have two pailsful of clean water, 
 a large sponge, a couple of flannels, and dry coarse 
 cloths ready. Begin by dipping the scouring-brush in 
 the gall and water, and scour the carpet with it as far 
 as can be reached easily by the arms, while on the knees, 
 as quick and as careful as possible, taking care none 
 goes through the back in the scouring ; when this is 
 done, dry up the gall with the flannel or sponge, making 
 use of the two pails of clean water to rinse the flannel, 
 as well as to rinse the gall out of the carpet ; this must 
 be done nearly dry with the flannels, and finish the 
 square, by drying with the cloths, before you begin an- 
 other. By adopting this simple process a carpet may 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 291 
 
 be cleaned on a floor no matter what size it is. You 
 must bear in "mind that expedition in cleaning, and 
 rubbing dry every square yard that is done, is all that 
 is required to insure success. There must be a tire in 
 the room while the carpet is being cleaned, for the faster 
 it is dried the better. 
 
 Remarks. — This is a very easy way to clean a carpet, 
 but the gall must be from a fresh-killed bullock, or it 
 will smell very much. I give the preference to dry- 
 cleaning in soap, on account of the smell the gall leaves ; 
 other dyers and scourers like gall, when they can get it 
 very fresh ; it is certainly a very good way when the 
 carpets are not very dirty, for it cannot injure the colors, 
 neither does the soap, if it is sheeted up dry and no 
 hanging on — that is what I am most afraid of in doing 
 such work — but a master must be at the men's elbows 
 while such work is doing. 
 
 To thoroughly. Clean Carpets. 
 
 Put it on a stone floor that has a fall to it, to drain 
 off the soap and water used. Scour it with a scouring- 
 brush with a long handle to it, and the melted mottled 
 soap or Feild's soap, as above recommended ; and when 
 well scoured all over with the soap and brush, the soap 
 and dirt to be well scoured out of it with a scouririg- 
 brush and plenty of cold water. After doing all this 
 well, fold it up nicely on the flags, and lift it on the pegs 
 to drain, so that all the soap and dirt may drain out of 
 it. While the carpet is draining, sweep and rinse the 
 flags well, put the carpet down again, and well rinse it a 
 second time with clean cold water, well scouring the 
 water off with the carpet-broom as it is thrown on. Fold 
 up the carpet again nicely, and put it, a second time, on 
 a peg to drain, and rinse and sweep the floor a second 
 time. .Put the carpet back on the flags, and well rinse 
 it again, well scouring with the broom while the water 
 is thrown on it with a pail, so as to effectually take all 
 the dirt and soap out of it. When this is done, refold 
 
292 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 and put it on the peg to drain, without any stoppage at 
 the edges. 
 
 The flags must be well rinsed and again swept, and 
 have a large tub (out of the way of the floor where the 
 carpet is clearing), and to every twelve pails of water 
 put in half a teacupful of oil of vitriol (not such as you 
 would buy at a chemist's, but at the dry Salter's), mix it 
 well in the water, and spread the carpet regularly on 
 the floor, and take a pail and pour the sour from the tub 
 carefully over all the carpet, well working it with a car- 
 pet-broom. This is an important process in carpet- 
 cleaning, and must be performed with care and attention 
 to the colors, particularly where there are greens and 
 blues. Now fold up the carpet very smooth, and put it 
 on the pegs to drain, and it is done. This is what we 
 call thoroughly cleaning, rinsing, and spiriting a carpet ; 
 the next process is drying it with as much dispatch as 
 possible in a hot rodm, or in the open air on a dry day ; 
 when dry, nicely fold, and it is fit for use. 
 
 Remarks. — This is the regular and proper way of 
 cleaning carpets thoroughly, and they will look and wear 
 as well as when new. The reader will see that cleaning 
 the back of the carpet was not mentioned. I never clean 
 the back of any carpet, as it ought not to be touched 
 with the brush while the carpet is cleaning. It is sure 
 to get clean with the face. 
 
 Another Method to thoroughly Clean Carpets. 
 
 Have a board placed on stands or horses, three feet 
 high, the board must be three feet wide and twelve feet 
 long, so that two persons can work at it ; and under- 
 neath this board have other boards on the ground, to let 
 the carpet drop on as you scour it. Begin and scour 
 your carpet by placing it smooth on the scouring-board, 
 face up, and with a hand scouring-brush and Feild's, or 
 any melted soap you like, except the regular firkin soft- 
 soap, that is made from fish oil, that is very good in its 
 place, but not here, and when one board length is 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 293 
 
 cleaned pull it to you, and let it drop smooth on the 
 board at your feet, and begin another board, and so go 
 on, until all the carpet is well scoured with the liquid, 
 soap and brush. When this is done, fold it up on the 
 scouring-board, and put it on a peg to drain, so that all 
 the soap liquor will drain out of it without any fold or 
 stoppage. Clean away all the soap and dirt from the 
 boards and floor, and begin and rinse the carpet with 
 clean cold water, by placing it on the scouring-board as 
 at first and scouring the dirt and soap out of it with 
 plenty of clean cold water. Having done this, fold it 
 up, and put it on the pegs to drain, and clean the boards 
 and the floor a second time. Put the carpet back on 
 the scouring-board, and well rinse it again with plenty 
 of water. When this is done, fold it up smooth and 
 put it on the peg to drain, and well clean the scouring- 
 board, the board at the feet, and all places about. And 
 now make up a common sour to finish the carpet with, 
 and to every twelve pails of water put in a quarter of a 
 pint of oil of vitriol. Put the carpet on the board and 
 scour this spirit water into it regular and well, square 
 after square, until all the carpet is done. Now fold it 
 up and put it on the peg to drain, dry it well in a hot 
 room, or in the air on a warm day, and, when dry, it is 
 ready for use. 
 
 Remarks. — I like this manner of cleaning carpets 
 much better than laying them down on the flags ; how- 
 ever, both ways are good, but I prefer the scouring- 
 board to the floor. All these processes seem long, but 
 the carpet ought to be hung smoothly on a peg to drain 
 when it gets one liquor before it gets another, there is 
 where the process seems long, but it is a cheap and safe 
 way, for the clean soap directly gets into the carpet when 
 the dirty soap is drained out of it ; it is the same with 
 the rinsing and spiriting. 
 
294- love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 Another Method of Cleaning Carpets. 
 
 Have the carpet well beaten, and spot the grease out 
 with fullers' earth and gall. For a carpet of about 
 thirty yards, have two large gall-bags fresh from a 
 slaughter-house. Put six pails of clean cold water in a 
 vessel; add thereto one pound of pearlash which has 
 been melted with hot water, and then the gall, and mix 
 well together. Spread out the carpet either on the flags 
 or the scouring-board, and use this preparation exactly 
 in the same manner as if it was melted soap — scouring, 
 rinsing, and spiriting just the same. It must also be 
 dried like the other two carpets. 
 
 Remarks. — This is a very good way to clean carpets 
 thoroughly. They must be very well rinsed, and dried 
 in the air if possible. If potash is not handy, soda will 
 do as well to soften the water. 
 
 When a carpet is to be cleaned thoroughly that is too 
 large to handle conveniently, the easiest and best way 
 is to rip it into parts of three or four widtns each. They 
 are more safe and handy to clean, and it is very easy 
 to sew them together again. . I always do so with the 
 carpets I have to clean, and send them home ready to 
 put down, and my customers do not know it. I take 
 down the seams for my own convenience, for it lessens 
 the expense both in time and materials, and, of course, 
 I ought to sew them up again, and send it home as I had 
 it, ready to lay down, and not charge for re-sewing. it. 
 I have often in my time had orders from very particular 
 customers to rip their carpets in single widths and tho- 
 roughly cleanse them, which I always did, with soap and 
 water, and when they were dry, hot pressed them. It 
 is more troublesome, but it is a very good way when two 
 carpets are to be made out of one large one. 
 
 To Dry -clean Carpets with Ammonia. 
 
 Have the carpet well beaten and brushed, and laid 
 down on the floor. For a carpet of thirty yards have 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 295 
 
 one gallon of liquid ammonia and four ounces of pearl- 
 ash ; melt the pearlash in clean hot water, and then pour 
 it into the ammonia ; stir them well, and the liquor is 
 fit for use. Have also, before you begin, a strong coarse 
 sponge, four or five pieces of coarse flannel, as many 
 coarse clean sheets, and one hand-scouring brush, all 
 ready. Now begin and dry-clean the carpet. Have the 
 ammonia in a small pan or clean pail, and dip the sponge 
 or flannel in the ammonia ; take it out middling wet, 
 and work the ammonia well into the carpet as far as you 
 can reach on your hands and knees, but you must not 
 let it go through the carpet. Take your brush and wet 
 it in the ammonia, and scour the part that has been 
 sponged quickly and well. Squeeze the ammonia out 
 of the sponge or flannel, and suck up with it the dirt 
 the brush has disturbed. Put by the sponge, wipe the 
 spot dry with the pieces of flannel; and, for a finish, 
 wipe the spot dry with the sheets before you get off 
 your knees. Now you have cleaned one square yard of 
 the carpet, which occupied about twenty minutes. Go 
 on and clean the remainder of the carpet in squares by 
 the same process. 
 
 Remarks. — This is a very simple process to dry-clean 
 a carpet, but it has one drawback — it smells of the am- 
 monia a long time afterwards if kept in the room where 
 it w r as cleaned. The remedy is simply, after the carpet 
 has been cleaned on the floor, to take it up and hang it 
 in the air for three or four days, and all the smell will 
 go off. It must not get any rain or w T et while it is out 
 of doors. The liquid ammonia is sold by dry-salters. 
 
 To Dry-clean Hearth-rugs. 
 
 Put the hearth-rug on a large board after it has been 
 well beaten and brushed, and melt in one gallon of hot 
 water one pound of Feild's soap or mottled soap, no 
 matter which. When all the soap is dissolved, let the 
 liquor cool to a hand heat, and then begin and clean the 
 hearth-rug. Have a coarse flannel or sponge, dip it in 
 
296 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 the soap, and carry it pretty wet to the rug. Make six 
 parts of the rug, and clean and dry one part at a time. 
 Rub the rug well with the sponge containing the liquid 
 soap, but without letting the liquid reach the back; then 
 scour it gently with a hand scouring-brush ; afterwards, 
 rinse the soap and dirt out of it with a flannel dipped 
 in a pail of warm water, and put on the rug to suck up 
 the dirt and soap ; the flannel is to be rinsed in warm 
 water and wrung out, and then well rubbed into the rug 
 often, until all the dirt and soap is taken out of the part 
 begun, and it must be rubbed dry with a clean cloth 
 before you leave it to begin another part. After it is 
 cleaned the rug must be dried very quickly, for, being 
 very thick, it is apt to sadden if it is too long in drying. 
 After it is sheeted up have a little common sour in a 
 pail of clean water, and, having a clean sponge, dip the 
 sponge in the sour, squeeze it, and rub it well all over 
 the face of the rug and spiriting ; dry this up with a- 
 clean sheet also. 
 
 Another Method of Cleaning Hearth-rugs. 
 
 The reader might suppose that when I give instruc- 
 tions for a carpet or hearth-rug to be dry-cleaned, that 
 in the process I do not intend to use any sort of a liquid. 
 It is no such thing. There is no carpet or hearth-rug 
 of any kind that can be cleaned entirely dry. Fullers' 
 earth, pipe-clay, masons' dust, &c. may be tried, and 
 when tried it will be found that they have made it worse. 
 Besides it is almost impossible to beat, brush, or shake 
 these things out when once they fasten on it. It is well 
 enough to take a spot of grease out of a carpet or rug 
 with fullers' earth ; but the attempt to clean a carpet or 
 rug all over in the same manner would not do at all. 
 It is all nonsense to talk of entirely dry-cleaning, it can- 
 not be done ; it is sheeting up dry after it is cleaned 
 by a liquid, is meant dry-cleaning. 
 
 What we mean by dry-cleaning is, that when once we 
 begin to dry-clean a carpet or rug, we do not leave it 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 297 
 
 until it is nearly dry. There is nothing so good as 
 liquid soap and water, or so gentle for the colors, as it 
 is good for the wool and the colors if no alkali is used 
 with it. Next to soap is gall, and with it I will dry- 
 clean this rug, by first beating and brushing it, then 
 putting it on a board and dry-cleaning it with one fresh 
 gall-bag in a pail of clean cold water. Have a coarse 
 flannel or sponge, and dip it in the gall and water, and 
 put it on the rug. Finish- it every way like the hearth- 
 rug that has just been dry-cleaned in soap. 
 
 Cleaning and Calendering Curtains, Furriiture, fyc. 
 
 There is no necessity to take apart this furniture. It 
 will clean and calender to look equal to new. Being 
 made up they will not be so stiff as new, but they will 
 be as clean and as glossy. It is very necessary that the 
 public should know that this furniture can be cleaned 
 and calendered without being taken to pieces. There 
 is some printed furniture that has been taken to pieces — 
 not that it is necessary to do so for cleaning and glazing, 
 but for alterations in linings and other causes. When that 
 happens, the best way is to take them entirely apart and 
 have them friction-calendered, and they will then look 
 equal to new. To clean twenty yards of printed furni- 
 ture bed or window curtains, a sofa cover, a squab, two 
 cushions and half a dozen of chair covers, first melt a 
 bar of mottled soap in four gallons of boiling hot water, 
 and see that it is thoroughly dissolved in the water. 
 Have three vessels, and in each vessel put four pails of 
 clean cold water, and in the vessel or tub you put your 
 print in first, put a gallon and a half of the melted soap 
 liquor. We shall call this the first liquor. Now put 
 in the second clean water a gallon and a half more of 
 your melted soap for the second liquor. After you have 
 well rubbed, punched, and turned them in the first 
 liquor, wring them out of it ; and put them into the 
 second soap liquor, and punch, rub, and turn them 
 well in this to clean them. Wring them out of this 
 
298 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 second soap liquor, and put the gallon of melted soap 
 left into the third vessel or tub, which is called a thin 
 soap liquor, and punch, rub, and finish cleaning them 
 in this liquor. Wring them up, and give them a 
 clean water directly, and they are cleaned ready 
 for rinsing, for stiffening and drying. Save these 
 three soap liquors in one vessel, and give the print 
 three warm waters, not too hot, one after the other 
 to take out the soap ; wring them well out of the 
 waters and starch them next. Have a quartern of the 
 best flour, and put it in the small copper kettle mixing 
 it well with cold water ; when well mixed put two pails 
 of scalding water on it, and put it to swim in a boiling 
 copper for half an hour, with two ounces of beeswax in 
 it, well stirring it now and then, and it is fit for use. 
 Take it out, cool it, strain it into a clean vessel, and 
 starch the print you have just cleaned by well working 
 the starch all through. When this is done wring it up, 
 well shake it, and fold it neatly ; dry it, and when dry, 
 send it to the calico-glazers. 
 
 Remarks. — If my time will allow it I like to clean, 
 rinse, and dry my print before I stiffen it. It then takes 
 a fourth less starch, and is much stiffer than when it is 
 stiffened while wet. 
 
 To Clean and Calender Printed Furniture and Lining. 
 
 Make up two clean cold waters in a punching-tub, 
 and then punch your print well in the first tub ; throw 
 it on a peg to drain, and let the lining follow in the same 
 water, punch your prints also through the second water, 
 and the lining is to follow, and put it to drain. Now 
 we will clean this print with a bar of Feild's soap, melted 
 in four gallons of scalding water. Have three vessels, 
 and put four pails of clean cold water in each vessel, and 
 a gallon and a half of the melted soap in the first and 
 second tub, and one gallon in the third tub ; go on 
 cleaning your print and lining one liquor after the other, 
 as you did in the unpicked or lined print, until both are 
 well cleaned, and be sure to let the print go in all the 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 299 
 
 cleaning and starching first. These eighty yards of fur- 
 niture and eighty yards of furniture lining will take a 
 quartern of flour to stiffen them for the friction-calender, 
 and I will now direct how to stiffen them, Lined fur- 
 niture, that is sofa, chair cover, and hangings not un- 
 picked, must have starch very good and strong, and we 
 are obliged to use a good deal of labor to get into the 
 lined work. Whereas, in the unlined print and lining 
 we only want a thin starch, and for it to be passed regu- 
 larly through it, when it is for friction-calendering. If 
 this print is to . be glazed, it must have strong starch, 
 although it is in pieces. 
 
 Remarks. — Printed furniture and lining for friction- 
 calendering must be taken apart in breadths, and have 
 half a quartern of flour and two ounces of beeswax to 
 eighty yards; in wringing them out of the starch they 
 must be wrung across the breadth, and shook out and 
 folded directly, the ends and the edges must be well 
 shook out, and hung up very straight by the ends, as the 
 friction-calenderer, which is Mr. Baverstock, Great Rus- 
 sell street, near the British Museum, for the West End, 
 cannot or will not do them else, as he thinks, and very 
 justly, that the work should be shook out while it is wet, 
 and not after, and not by him by any means. 
 
 To Dry-clean Ancient Tapestry. 
 
 Take a good, strong, long-haired clothes-brush and 
 brush it well, and have a pointed brush to remove all 
 dust out of the corners. Now prepare for cleaning it by 
 first melting a bar of Feild's soap in one gallon of water, 
 and, when melted, put one quart of it in one gallon of 
 clean cold water, have at hand by you some pieces of 
 flannel, a soft brush, a piece of wash-leather, and some 
 dry clean sheets. If it is on the wall, begin to clean it 
 at the top, and only clean one square yard at a time. 
 Now dip your flannel in the soap and water pail, squeeze 
 it out gently, and rub it well into the tapestry, so as to 
 make it lather ; have a soft brush, and brush the square 
 you are cleaning well ; after this wring the flannel out 
 
300 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 of the soap, and rub it dry with the soapy flannel and 
 wash-leather, and sheet the spot dry, with the soap in it, 
 as it must not be rinsed. Put two gallons of clean 
 water in a pan, and melt four ounces of tartaric acid in 
 a pint of boiling water, then put it in the pan with the 
 cold water ; have a clean sponge and put it in this acid 
 water, squeeze it, and rub it well into the spot you have 
 * just cleaned and dried, and when this is done it must be 
 well dried with a dry sheet before it is left ; when this 
 last process is finished move on to the next top square 
 yard and go on exactly in the same manner as the first 
 square, and so on square after square until all is 
 cleaned. You must not continue to use the same soap 
 and water you are cleaning with always ; when it gets 
 dirty, throw it away and make up fresh ; also change 
 the spirits, the flannels, and sheets, for they must be used 
 clean. 
 
 Remarks. — This is the only safe and proper way to 
 clean ancient tapestry. There are many other ways, 
 but every one of them injurious and bad. There must 
 be a good fire in the apartment while the tapestry is 
 cleaning. When this is dry take a lump of pipe clay 
 and rub it into it, and with a clean clothes-brush well 
 brush the pipe-clay out of it ; this pipe-clay and brush 
 takes the soap and spirits out of it, and brightens the 
 colors. Powdered whiting is preferred by some, but is 
 very annoying, it makes such a dust. 
 
 To Cleaiy and Water Scarlet Moreens. 
 
 Two window curtains of scarlet moreen, three widths 
 wide and three yards and a half long, are forty yards. 
 To clean this, have six pounds of the best soap, and 
 three pounds of pearlash ; cut the soap in shavings into 
 a little kettle, and put eight gallons of scalding water 
 on it, stir it well, and cover it over until it all dissolves. 
 Put the ash to melt by itself in a clean vessel in eight 
 quarts of scalding water. Now begin and clean the 
 moreen, by making two lots of it — that is, twenty yards 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 301 
 
 in each lot — by first giving it two clean waters, , and 
 well working it in each water, one lot following the 
 other; fold them up on the puncher-head or a clean flat 
 board, and put each lot on a peg to drain by itself. Now 
 begin and clean them in soap. Put six pails of blood- 
 warm water into a tub, two quarts of pearlash liquor, 
 and two gallons of the soap liquor. Now put one lot 
 of the moreens in this liquor, and work it well in it with 
 the puncher for ten minutes, and fold up and put them 
 on the peg to drain ; get in the other lot, do the same 
 with it as you did with the first, and fold it up by itself 
 on a peg to drain. This first liquor is now no good, 
 therefore throw it away, and make up another like the 
 first, and let the second lot go first this time ; well punch 
 it, and turn and punch it again for ten minutes ; get it 
 up to drain, and £>ut your other lot in the liquor, do the 
 same with it, and get it up and put to drain. Now 
 empty the tub again, saving the liquor in another ves- 
 sel, make up a third soap liquor in the same manner as 
 the first, and put the last lot first again in this fresh 
 soap liquor ; punch and turn it well for fully ten min- 
 utes, fold it up, and put it to drain ; do the same also 
 with the other lot, and turn over this into the old soap 
 bin, and then make up another soap liquor to finish 
 them ; this we call a thin soap liquor, and let your se- 
 cond lot go in first, and punch them well for ten min- 
 utes, fold up and drain ; put in the other lot, and punch 
 and handle them for ten minutes, fold up, and put on a 
 peg to drain, and they are cleaned, all ready for spirit- 
 ing. Now have the tub they were cleaned in filled with 
 clean cold water, and if it holds twelve pailsful, put half 
 a pint of oil of vitriol in it and well stir it. Open your 
 first lot of twenty yards and handle them well in this 
 spirit and water for ten minutes, fold up to drain, and 
 put a quarter of a pint of oil of vitriol in for the second 
 lot ; handle this lot well for ten minutes, and get them 
 up to drain, and throw the spirits away out of the tub, 
 rinse it and fill it with clean cold water, and rinse the 
 first lot in it, and fold them up nicely out of it, for they 
 
302 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 are finished. Then throw this water away, and fill the 
 tub with clean water, rinse the second lot through it, 
 and nicely fold them up, put them to drain and they are 
 done. 
 
 Now these forty yards of scarlet moreen are cleaned, 
 spirited, and ready for drying, and they must be hung 
 up in a warm room by the ends of the breadths, the 
 middle hanging down. This must be attended to, as 
 they must be dried straight, so as to be re-made straight, 
 and hang again like new. When they are dry they are 
 to be picked, shook well, and sent to Baverstock's, Se- 
 grave's, or Hall's, the pressors, to be watered, embossed, 
 a satin and a watered stripe put on them, or finished 
 plain. These are the four ways we have for finishing 
 moreens, whether cleaned or dyed, and the owners have 
 only to choose which way they will 14ke their moreens 
 finished. The charge is the same per yard for finishing 
 them in any one of the above ways. 
 
 To Clean and finish forty yards of Scarlet or Crimson 
 Damask or Moreens. 
 
 I began cleaning these bed and window curtains of 
 all colors of moreens and damasks by cleaning the scarlet 
 moreens first. They are the most difficult of all in the 
 cleaning from three causes. The first is, that the dye- 
 ing they get when new never goes into the heart of them, 
 and it requires great care in cleaning to keep on the 
 color ; the next is, they are so harsh in their make; 
 and the third, and not the least evil, is that they are 
 almost always dirtier than any other sort of work that 
 comes to be cleaned and finished. Knowing all this 
 from experience, I thought it would be the best arrange- 
 ment to clean the scarlet moreens first, as a guide for 
 cleaning the rest of the moreens and. damasks that are 
 to follow. 
 
 The best instructions that I can give for cleaning 
 either of these lots of scarlet, or crimson damask, or mo- 
 reen, is to clean and spirit them in the same manner as 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 303 
 
 the scarlet moreens above were cleaned. They must 
 be dried with the ends upwards, and picked and shaken 
 in the same way, buf not finished in the same manner, 
 as they must be hot-pressed at any of the pressers I 
 have before mentioned — the crimson moreens as the 
 person likes, plain, watered, striped, or embossed. 
 
 To Clean and Finish Scarlet or Crimson Worsted and 
 
 Cotton Damask, 
 
 Scarlet and crimson woollen and cotton damasks are 
 cleaned exactly in the same manner as the above, but 
 after they are spirited and rinsed, they must have a 
 water starch to make them look strong and well ; when 
 they are finished at the regular pressers they look' like 
 new. 
 
 To Clean and Finish Blue Moreen and Blue Damask. 
 
 This blue moreen and damask must be cleaned in two 
 lots in clean blood-warm soap liquors, and exactly in 
 the same manner as the scarlet moreen is cleaned and 
 spirited, rinsed, dried, and finished, as far as regards 
 the moreen; the damask must be hot-pressed. These 
 blues will look well if cleaned expeditiously ; and with 
 care they will not lose any color in the cleaning. They 
 must be finished as above. 
 
 To Clean and Finish ten yards of Blue Satin Striped 
 
 Tabaret, 
 
 Tabaret is made from cotton and silk, with a satin 
 stripe. It is generally made all one color, but those most 
 common are crimson, green, amber, and blue. It is 
 also made with a stripe of a different color to the ground, 
 and the ground is always watered. It is splendid fur- 
 niture. I will .now begin and clean it. Take two 
 pounds of Feild's soft soap and dissolve it in two gallons 
 of boiling water, and while it is getting cold prepare for 
 
304 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 cleaning the tabaret. Put the clean scouring-board on 
 the stands, and put the clean silk scouring-brushes on it, 
 make up three clean cold rinsing "waters, with six pails 
 of water in each vessel, and have another vessel with as 
 much common sour in it as will make it taste, and a 
 kettle with four pails of water for a thin soap liquor. 
 This ten yards of tabaret is one curtain three widths 
 wide, and nearly three yards and a half long. Now 
 make a small soap liquor, with a pail of cold water and 
 one quart of the soft soap liquor in it, put one breadth 
 through it, and put it on the scouring-board, wrong side 
 up, and clean it well by pouring some of the soft soap 
 just melted on it, and brushing it with the silk brush. 
 You must not be five minutes cleaning the wrong side, 
 then turn it, and clean the right side quick with the 
 brush and more soft soap. Now get it off the board, 
 and pass it through the first soap liquor, then the thin 
 liquor, the rinsing water and the spirits, and handle it 
 well in the spirits for two minutes, fold it up, wring it 
 and shut it up, dry, and before you leave it, brush it 
 with your dry silk brush, hang it up, and when dried 
 thoroughly, it is ready for watering, and will, when 
 watered, be as good as new. The next two breadths 
 are to go through exactly the same process one by one. 
 So you could go on if there were fifty' of them, and not 
 make a single mistake or lose a bit of color if my in- 
 structions are strictly attended to. Of course you would 
 want more materials, for I only had enough to clean 
 ten yards. Clean dry sheets at this work cannot be 
 dispensed with. It must be damped, brushed, and 
 watered for a finish, and when done it will look like 
 new. 
 
 To Clean and Finish Bine, Green, or any other colored 
 
 Tabaret. 
 
 There are many different methods of cleaning taba- 
 rets thoroughly, but it is much the best to give one sure 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 305 
 
 and safe method of cleaning this very important and 
 good work. If any of my readers want another method, 
 let them write to me arfd they shall have it, inclosing 
 their address on an envelope and a stamp with it, and 
 without these I will answer no letter. I will now begin 
 and clean ten yards of any colored tabaret, whether 
 plain, figured, or striped. First, scald two pounds of 
 Feild's soft soap in four quarts of water, and make up 
 three clean cold rinsing waters, with four pails of water 
 in each vessel, and another vessel with four pails of 
 clean cold water and as much common sour in it as will 
 make it taste, and a kettle with four pails of water in 
 it for a thin *soap liquor, and make up a small soap 
 liquor with two pails of water and one quart of the soft 
 soap liquor in it. I would. begin and clean a breadth or 
 width of any sort or color of tabaret by putting it on 
 the scouring-board and clean, rinse, spirit, sheet up, dry, 
 and brush, exactly in the same manner as I directed to 
 clean ten yards in three widths of the blue satin-striped 
 tabaret, and so go on cleaning, rinsing, spiriting, sheet- 
 ing up, drying, brushing, and hanging up each width as 
 I cleaned it, until I had finished it. When all the ta- 
 baret is cleaned and dry, damp and brush it, and shake 
 out the ends of the widths well, clip the ravelled ends, 
 and send it to Baverstock's, Segrave's, or Hall's, the press- 
 ers, waterers, and embossers, to be watered, and when 
 it comes home from any of them it will look like new 
 and be ready to re-make. 
 
 To Clean and Finish Plain or Figured Satin Bed or 
 
 Window Curtains. 
 
 This work is to be cleaned exactly in the same mari- 
 ner as the plain or figured tabarets, and when dry, to be 
 damped, brushed, and framed (see Frame for finishing 
 silks, page 28) and when framed sent to the presser's to 
 be finished. Law and Son, silk finishers, calenderers, 
 and embossers, Monkwell street, London wall, City, fin- 
 ish this kind of work in a superior manner. Picard, 
 20 
 
306 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 silk waterer, and satin dresser, Noble street, Foster 
 lane, Cheapside, also finishes this sort of work to look 
 like new. Some dyers and scourers have their satins 
 damped, brushed, and sent to the calenderers to be 
 pitched, and when they come back have them framed, 
 stiffened with gum on the back, and steamed with clean 
 water on the face; the sponge that is used for steaming 
 must be nearly dry, and used on the satin while the 
 charcoal fire is under it, and the steam curling on the 
 face at that important time, the sponge is used in facing 
 it lengthwise on the face of the satin ; it does not want 
 any more finishing when done by this method except re- 
 dressing by the pressers. Some dyers and scourers damp, 
 brush, and calender this work and give it no other fin- 
 ish. If it is a superior damask, and in good condition 
 when it is sent to be cleaned it wants no more finishing. 
 
 To Clean and Finish Silk Damask Bed and Window 
 
 Curtains. 
 
 These damask curtains are to be cleaned with Feild's 
 
 « 
 
 cold soft soap, rinsed, spirited, and sheeted dry, as the 
 blue tabaret was cleaned, and when dry, damped, brushed, 
 framed, and sent to the pressers to have the finishing on 
 them ; and when that is done they are ready for re- 
 making, and they are as good as new. 
 
 To Clean and Press Silk and Worsted French Damask 
 Bed and Window Curtains. 
 
 These damask curtains are from one and a half to two 
 yards wide, and made of silk and worsted ; they are a very 
 heavy and splendid hanging, and when well cleaned they 
 look equal to new. 
 
 We will begin and clean one curtain nearly three 
 yards and a half long, and two yards wide, which is 
 equal to ten yards of the usual width of damasks. Dis- 
 solve, in eight gallons of boiling water, three pounds of 
 Feild's oil soap, or the best mottled soap, and while it 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 307 
 
 is getting cold make up the spiriting, cleaning, and rins- 
 ing liquors ; have three tubs, and put six pails of water 
 in each tub, and a pailful of melted soap into each of the 
 two first, and half a pail into the third. Put in the 
 large kettle six pails of clean cold water, and a quarter 
 of a teacupful of oil of vitriol. Stir well in the water. 
 Now everything is ready to clean the work without stop- 
 page, call the man to help, and we will suppose it is a 
 claret woollen ground, with green, blue, pink, crim- 
 son, or amber silk in the damask pattern, and these 
 are the most difficult colors to clean safe. Put it in the 
 first liquor, under a peg, work it well for one minute, 
 take it up by the selvage, and with the man wring it 
 well over the tub ; put it back in the same liquor for 
 one minute, work it well, get it up and wring it again 
 on the peg over the tub. 
 
 Now work it in and wring it out of the second tub, 
 put it back for one minute, working it well in the soap 
 this second time, and take it up ; put it across the peg, 
 the tub under it, and wring it up again, and put it into 
 the third liquor ; this is the thin soap liquor, and work 
 it well in it, get it up, wring it on the peg, and handle 
 it directly out of the soap into the spirits, and wring it 
 up out of it on the peg, put it back, handle it well for a 
 minute, and throw it up to drain. Now empty the tub 
 you gave it the first liquor in, rinse it, and put ten pails 
 of water in it and half a teacupful of oil of vitriol, and 
 handle it well in this, wring, return it a couple of times, 
 and put it on a peg to drain. Throw away this water, 
 and give it another with a quarter of a teacupful of oil 
 of vitriol in it, and twelve pails of cold water, work it 
 well in this, wring it well out of it for a finish, and it is 
 done. The next process is to dry it in clean sheets be- 
 fore it is hung up; this sheeting up dry cannot be 
 omitted, the whole safety of the colors depend on how it 
 is sheeted up. This one curtain will take six sheets to 
 dry it. Now that it is sheeted up and nearly dry, hang 
 it up in a warm room, and as there are generally four 
 curtains to a bed or window, help these liquors you have 
 
308 loye's dyer and scourer. 
 
 just used with more fresh soap liquor, clean and sheet 
 up dry the other three, one by one, exactly in the same 
 manner and time you did the first. When all are done 
 and dry, damp, brush, and send them to the pressers to 
 be finished, and they are done. When returned from 
 the pressers and ready for re-making, they will look as 
 well as if they had never been wetted. 
 
 HINTS RELATING TO COLOR AND COMPLEXION. 
 
 Red Drapery. — Rose-red cannot be put in contact 
 with the rosiest complexions without causing them to 
 Ipse some of their freshness. Dark red is less objec- 
 tionable for certain complexions than rose-red, because, 
 being higher than this latter, it tends to impart white- 
 ness to them in consequence of contrast of tone. 
 
 Green Drapery. — A delicate green is, on the contrary, 
 favorable to all fair complexions which are deficient in 
 rose, and which may have more imparted to them with- 
 out inconvenience. But it is not as favorable to com- 
 plexions that are more red than rosy, nor to those that 
 have a tint of orange mixed with brown, because the red 
 they add to this tint will be of brick-red hue. In the 
 latter case a dark green will be less objectionable than a 
 delicate green. 
 
 Yellow Drapery. — Yellow imparts violet to a fair skin, 
 and in this view it is less favorable than the delicate 
 green. To those skins which are more yellow than 
 orange it imparts white ; but this combination is very 
 dull and heavy for a fair complexion. When the skin 
 is tinted more with orange than yellow, we can make it 
 roseate by neutralizing the yellow. It produces this 
 effect upon the black-haired type, and it is thus that it 
 suits brunettes. 
 
 Violet Draperies. — Violet, the complementary of yel- 
 low, produces contrary effects; thus it imparts some 
 greenish-yellow to fair complexions. It augments the 
 yellow tint of yellow and orange skins. The little blue 
 there may be in a complexion it makes green. Violet, 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 309 
 
 then, is one of the least favorable colors to the skin, at 
 least, when it is not sufficiently deep, to whiten it by 
 contrast of tone. 
 
 Blue Drapery. — Blue imparts orange, which it is sus- 
 ceptible of allying itself favorably to white and the light 
 flesh tints of fair complexions, which have already a 
 more or less determined tint of this color. Blue is, then, 
 suitable to most blondes, and in this case justifies its 
 reputation. It will not suit brunettes since they have 
 already too much of the orange. 
 
 Orange Drapery. — Orange is too brilliant to be elegant ; 
 it makes fair complexions blue, whitens those which 
 have an orange tint, and gives a green hue to those of a 
 yellow tint. 
 
 White Drapery. — Drapery of a lustreless white, such 
 as cambric muslin, assorts well with a fresh complexion, 
 of which it relieves the rose color ; but it is unsuitable 
 to complexions which have a disagreeable tint, because 
 white always exalts all colors by raising their tone ; 
 consequently it is unsuitable to those skins which, with- 
 out having this disagreeable tint, very nearly approach 
 it. Very light white draperies, such as muslin, plait or 
 pointed lace, have an entirely different aspect. 
 
 Black Drapery. — Black draperies, lowering the tone 
 of the colors with which they are in juxtaposition, whiten 
 the skin ; but if the vermilion or rosy parts are to a 
 certain point distant from the drapery, it will follow that, 
 although lowered in tone, they appear relatively to the 
 white parts of the skin contiguous to this same drapery, 
 redder than if the contiguity to the back did not exist. 
 — Harmony of Colors, by M. E. Chevreul. 
 
 FRENCH CLEANING. 
 
 REMARKS ON CLEANING SILK FABRICS WITH CAMPHENE. 
 
 French cleaning, as it is called, has no more to do 
 with the French nation, than it has to do with the 
 
310 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 English, but everything must have a name. It would 
 not do to call it Scotch or Irish cleaning. No! no! that 
 would not go down with the fashionable classes, so when 
 we want to clean in camphene we tell our customers 
 this work must be cleaned the French way, just to please 
 them, and they think it must be good because it has a 
 French name. English and Watson's camphene is con- 
 sidered the best for dry cleaning on silks. The French 
 know no more of cleaning in camphene than the English, 
 and the reason is simply this: camphene as it comes from 
 the makers must have nothing added to it ; if you put 
 water, spirit, or soap in it, or any alkali, it is spoiled. 
 It cleans all sorts of silk fabrics, when not very dirty, in 
 such a manner that nobody would ever think they had 
 been wetted; to clean them properly, they must be 
 passed through one, two, or even three separate liquors 
 of it. It neither changes or alters color, but it takes 
 the dirt, oil, and grease out of silks, cotton, and wool, 
 assisted by labor, and the work must not be rinsed or 
 spirited after it has been through a liquor of it; after 
 that it must be sheeted up dry directly, but it will not 
 clean work that is too much worn or soiled, that must be 
 taken apart and cleaned, in what is called the English 
 way, and a very good way it is, for it takes all the grease 
 and dirt out of it effectually, and improves both silk and 
 color when done with judgment and care. — See Thorough 
 Cleaning, previously described. 
 
 Board for French Cleaning. 
 
 A scouring-board for French cleaning ought to be six 
 feet long, three feet wide, one inch thick, and made of 
 American pine without splits or knots, and very smooth 
 and strong ; one side of it to be covered with green or 
 drab cloth, fastened by tin tacks to the edges and ends 
 of the board, and made as tight and as smooth as a bil- 
 liard table. The other side is to have no covering on it; 
 this way it will answer two purposes in French cleaning, 
 as will presently be seen. With this board three brushes 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 311 
 
 will be wanted to work the camphene, which brushes 
 can be bought at Mr. Lilly's, brush maker, Wakefield 
 street, Regent square, Bloomsbury, London, he makes 
 all the brushes used for dyers, scourers, and French 
 cleaners, where they are always ready ; other brushmakers 
 do not understand our want in brushes so well as he 
 does, for he makes it his study and has the trade. They 
 are not unlike the white hair brush with taper ends, 
 used in dusting and brushing coach linings. There 
 must also be a sponge, clean flannels, also clean India 
 cotton cloths. When all these things are ready, the 
 French cleaning may be commenced and continued with 
 a certainty of success. King, Seymour street, Euston 
 square, and Legg, Wardour street, Soho, sell English 
 and Watson's camphene, and almost all oil shops and 
 drysalters in London and the principal towns in the 
 country sell it. When the camphene has cleaned the 
 work, and is too dirty to be used again, it is taken back 
 to the shop it was bought at and exchanged for clean. 
 The camphene is sold in sealed tin boxes or cans, in 
 quarts, half gallons, and gallons. These tins must be 
 paid for or returned. 
 
 To Dry -Clean Figured Silk Damask Curtains with 
 
 Camphene. 
 
 This is very nice work, and requires great care and 
 expedition in the execution of it ; and as figured silk 
 damask, where there is a variety of colors in it, is the 
 most difficult to clean, I will begin with that first. Silk 
 damask, bed and window curtains, seldom have any li- 
 nings, and are generally from three to six yards long, 
 and from three to six widths wide. I will have one 
 curtain of four widths wide, well shook, brushed, and 
 taken apart, and begin and clean one breadth, say four 
 yards long, and as they must be cleaned one breadth at 
 a time I will begin with it. Have the camphene board, 
 brushes, and sheets, as per instructions, all ready, and 
 put one gallon of camphene in an earthenware pan that 
 
312 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 will hold four gallons, and put the width in it ; handle 
 it in the camphene until it is well soaked in it, which 
 will be in two minutes ; now fold it up on a peg, over 
 the pan, to save the liquor that drains from it, and put 
 it instantly on your camphene scouring-board, wrong 
 side up, and brush it well ; then turn up the right side, 
 and do the same with it. Now pass it again through 
 the camphene, and fold it up on the peg over the pan, 
 squeeze as much of the spirit out of it as you can, and 
 turn the board wood side up, put your sheets on it, and 
 sheet up the width you have just cleaned directly, one 
 sheet after the other, until it is dry, and then brush it 
 well on both sides and hang it up to air, as well as to 
 take off the smell of the camphene, which the air is sure 
 tq do. A hot stove room is the best place to dry and 
 take the smell of the camphene off the work, and the 
 hotter the place is the sooner the camphene is expelled. 
 There are three breadths of this curtain we began with, 
 the others must be cleaned, sheeted up, dried, and 
 brushed, one by one, exactly in the same manner as the 
 first. Now they are ready for dressing, and some per- 
 sons roll or frame (see frame, p. 28) them for a finish 
 with a teacupful of parchment size of the first boil to 
 four quarts of clean cold water, carefully wetted with a 
 clean sponge, and dried with the charcoal fire directly, 
 and they are done. Send them to the pressers to finish, 
 and I am sure this is the best, cleanest and the cheapest 
 finish. Some dyers and scourers prefer damping, brush- 
 ing, and calendering only as a finish for this work, and 
 others will frame or roll it only, it all depends on the 
 quality of the work and how it is dressed. 
 
 Remarks. — Time is everything in cleaning in this 
 work. If the operator is a dawdler, or hangs on, the 
 work is sure to suffer, as everything else does. Each of 
 these widths, from the time it was put in the camphene 
 until it was hung up to air, ought not to take more than 
 fifteen minutes from first to last. More work wants more 
 camphene and dry sheets, and done the same way. 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 313 
 
 To Dry-Clean Blue, Amber, and Green Plain Satin 
 
 Curtains. 
 
 First, well shake and brush these curtains and take 
 them apart ; and supposing there are three curtains, 
 each four widths wide and four yards long, I shall take 
 one width from each curtain to clean. 
 
 Have one gallon and a half of camphene for the three 
 widths, and have two clean stoneware pans that will 
 hold two gallons each, and put two quarts of camphene 
 in each pan, having the board, brushes, and drying cloths 
 all ready at hand. 
 
 Begin with the blue satin width, and in one of the 
 pans with the camphene in it, which I shall call the first 
 liquor, wet it well, and get it up directly to drain over 
 the pan for a minute. Put it on the board the wrong 
 side of the silk up — I will call the board the wrong side 
 where there is no cloth on it — and brush it well with a 
 soft brush. The brush must be occasionally wetted in 
 the camphene. When the wrong side is cleaned all 
 over, turn the right side up and clean it also with the 
 brush, and return it in the first liquor; then in the 
 second liquor ; drain it, turn your board, and dry the 
 width with the cloths. When drv, brush it on the 
 wrong side first, and then the right side with a dry brush. 
 Then hang it up, to take the smell off it, and it is ready 
 for dressing. 
 
 The next width to clean is the amber. This is to be 
 cleaned exactly like the blue. The next is the green. 
 This is also to be cleaned in like manner, and when the 
 camphene is done with, both liquors are to be put in one 
 jar and well corked, and it will be fit to use again for 
 dark-colored silks. If not it can be exchanged for fresh 
 where it was bought. They will give a pint of clean 
 camphene in return for a quart of that which has been 
 used. 
 
 The next process is the dressing of the satin. In gen- 
 eral it is finished in the frame (see "Frame," page 28), 
 and sent to the calenderer's afterwards, when it is done. 
 
314 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 Another very simple and good way to finish cleaned 
 satin is, to lightly damp it in clean sheets, then brush it, 
 and send it to the presser's to be finished, when it is 
 done. 
 
 Remarks. — I have one cleaned one width of each of 
 these three curtains in order to simplify the matter. If 
 my directions to clean one width are strictly followed, 
 an unlimited number may be done in the same manner ; 
 and the more there are to clean, the less camphene in 
 proportion is required — that is, it will take considerably 
 less camphene to clean twenty widths at one time than 
 it would to clean the same number at so many different 
 and distinct periods. 
 
 To Dry-Clean Crimson Watered Tdbaret Curtains. 
 
 Among my readers that are not dyers, drapers, or up- 
 holsterers, will be found many persons who will think it 
 is tabinet I mean. It is no such thing ; tabinet is plain 
 or figured Irish poplin for ladies' dresses, this Irish pop- 
 lin will clean with camphene exactly in the same way 
 as tabaret, and nobody would ever think it was cleaned, 
 it is made of silk and worsted, plain or figured, whereas 
 tabaret is made of silk and cotton, plain, striped or fig- 
 ured, and is never used for any other purpose than for 
 bed and window curtains, and for covering sofas, chairs, 
 ottomans, and coach linings. It is very much used for 
 drawing and sitting-room walls, instead of paper, paint, 
 or tapestry, and when used for this purpose it is not put 
 on tight and flat like paper or tapestry, but fluted, and 
 has a magnificent appearance. Tabaret (tabberea some 
 call it) curtains are always lined with tammy. The 
 material or fabric of this tammy is a thin woollen glazed 
 stuff, and always the color of the curtains, and ought, 
 when the curtains are taken to pieces, to be wet, cleaned, 
 and re-glazed on the side that was inside before they 
 were taken apart. Sometimes this tammy lining wants 
 re-dyeing, which is mostly done if the tabaret is in a 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 315 
 
 good state, and will look like new when cleaned and 
 glazed. 
 
 Crimsons, ambers, drabs, greens, and blues are the 
 prevailing colors for tabarets. I will begin with the 
 crimson, as for one yard of any other color that is cleaned 
 there are fifty for crimson. 
 
 Take one curtain of three widths, and three yards 
 long; well shake, brush, and take it apart, and have 
 your board, brushes, and drying-cloths ready. Divide 
 one gallon of camphene into two stone pans, and take 
 one width and put it through one of the pans with the 
 camphene in it ; then put it on the board, wrong side 
 up, and clean this side with the brush and camphene ; 
 then turn it, and do the right side in like manner ; and 
 when this is done, pass it again through the liquor you 
 first gave, then the other liquor. Let it drain over this 
 liquor a minute, and then sheet it up dry with the cot- 
 ton or linen cloths ; when this is done, brush it with a 
 dry brush, and it will look as* if it had never been .wet- 
 ted. Hang it up to take away the smell of the cam- 
 phene ; if in the summer the air will do, if in winter 
 it must be hung up in a warm room ; the smell will go 
 off in a few hours. Clean the other two widths in like 
 manner, and so go on to any extent, with fresh cam- 
 phene liquor. The next process is the finishing, by first 
 putting them in a half-dry sheet to damp for a few min- 
 utes ; then take them out, brush and rub them, and 
 send them to the presser's to be watered, and they are 
 done. 
 
 Remarks. — I have been very careful in describing 
 how this work is to be cleaned, as there is always a great 
 deal of it doing every year, and if my directions are 
 strictly attended to it will look as well as new. 
 
 To Clean Tammy Lining and Lace Fringes. 
 
 I think it not at all out of place here to give direc- 
 tions how to clean and finish the tammy linings, the lace 
 and the fringes of the above curtains. 
 
316 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 First Method. — The lace or gimp (the gimp to be 
 turned inside out in putting it on the curtains again), 
 is to follow the curtains in the camphene, and to be 
 cleaned, rubbed, and dried in cloths, piece by piece, like 
 the widths. The tammy lining is to follow in the same 
 camphene, a breadth at a time, and, instead of using a 
 brush that was used with the outside of the tabaret cur- 
 tains, use flannel to rub the dirt out of them ; do not 
 return them in the camphene, but rub them dry with 
 the cloths after the flannels ; air them, and have them 
 re-glazed on the side that was in, and they will look as 
 well as new. This tammy sometimes does without re- 
 glazing ; cleaning this way does not take the gloss 
 off. 
 
 Second Method. — Take the inside of a stale loaf and 
 a quart of silver sand, mix them, and damp them with 
 camphene ; put a dry width of the tammy on the board, 
 and work the mixture well into the tammy on both 
 sides, then shake and brusfr the width, and it is cleaned ; 
 again damp with camphene the bread and sand, and pro- 
 ceed with the other widths .of tammy if there were one 
 hundred of them, in the same manner as the first, and 
 they are done. 
 
 Third Method. — Thoroughly clean them, and, there 
 being nine yards of tammy and two yards of bullion 
 fringe, dissolve one bar of the best soap in four gallons 
 of scalding hot water, and have three clean vessels ; put 
 two gallons of cold water in each vessel and put two 
 gallons of the melted soap in the first one, and half in 
 the second, and half a gallon in the third vessel as a 
 thin soap liquor for the last. Have the three widths of 
 tammy tacked end by end, and proceed with the clean- 
 ing by putting them in the first soap liquor ; work them 
 well in it, get them out, and put them in the second ; 
 work them well in it, get them out and put them in the 
 third liquor ; handle them well in this, and put them on 
 a clean peg to drain. Now have a clean vessel, and put 
 eight gallons of cold water and a tablespoonful of oil of 
 vitriol in it ; mix it well in the water ; take the tammy 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 317 
 
 lining out of the soap and handle it well in this spirit for 
 five minutes ; get it out, and give it one clean cold 
 water for one minute ; get it out, hang it up to dry, and 
 when dry, have it glazed on the side that was inside, 
 and it is done ready to line again like new, to make up 
 with the tabaret curtains. 
 
 The crimson bullion fringe is the next to clean. This 
 fringe will clean well in the soap liquors the crimson 
 tammy lining left, exactly in the same manner, giving 
 it first, second, and third soap liquors, and another table- 
 spoonful of vitriol in the same spirits, and a clean cold 
 water after the spirits. Now dry it in a warm room, 
 and when dry it is ready to hang up with the curtains. 
 
 Remarks. — I have given directions how to clean and 
 finish this crimson tabaret curtain, crimson tammy lin- 
 ing, lace and fringe ; and to make the reader understand 
 me, I have confined my instructions to one curtain only ; 
 for if there were fifty, they must be cleaned only one 
 breadth at a time for one man ; and I have selected 
 crimson from among the number of colors as the most 
 difficult to clean, and at present the most in use. 
 
 To Dry-clean and Finish Tabaret Curtains of any Color. 
 
 When there is blue, fawn, or any light color among 
 the tabaretsfor cleaning, we always begin with the blues. 
 Have clean vessels, camphene, cloths, and brushes all 
 ready. When the blue is cleaned the lightest colors fol- 
 low, always taking care to clean only one width at a 
 time; and as this work must be cleaned and finished in 
 every way like the crimson with camphene, I must re- 
 fer my reader for instructions to clean any color of the 
 above work to the section on " Dry-cleaning Crimson 
 Tabarets," page 314. 
 
 The tammy linings, lace, and fringe are to be cleaned, 
 either wet or dry, in the same way as the linings, lace, 
 and fringe of the crimson tabarets. 
 
 In some fringes there are spickets covered with silk. 
 These are always taken off, and dry-cleaned with stale 
 
318 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 bread or camphene; and when the silk on the spicket 
 is worn out, they are sent to a fringe-maker to be re- 
 silked, and they then look as well as new. Cameron, 
 George yard, Crown street, Soho, is the fringe-maker 
 mostly employed by dyers at the west end of London. 
 
 To Clean Brocaded Silk or Satin Dresses. 
 
 "When silk dresses are very much soiled, they must 
 be taken apart to be thoroughly cleaned, and if properly 
 done will look as well as new. Dissolve two pounds of 
 soft soap, mottled soap, or Feild's palm soap in eight 
 quarts of water, and use when cold. Make up three 
 cold waters of four pails each, in three separate vessels, 
 and another one for the spiriting ; dissolve in this a 
 quarter of a pound of tartaric acid, and have ready 
 three clean sheets. Begin and clean a dress, one width 
 at a time. Have a board longer and wider than a width 
 of the dress ; place the width flat on it, wrong side up, 
 and pour as much of the melted soap over it as will wet 
 it regularly ; have a soft brush and clean it well, then 
 turn it on the right, and do the same with it. When 
 this is done, put it through a small thin soap liquor, then 
 one rinsing water, then another, and the third and last 
 the spirits ; handle it well in the spirits, and hang it 
 up to drain. Now open out a sheet on a dry board, or 
 table, and dry the width you have just cleaned in it; 
 brush it with a dry brush, and it is clean, ready to finish. 
 Clean the remainder of the dress exactly in the same 
 manner as the width, taking care to clean and sheet up 
 only one width or piece at a time, and to do it quickly, 
 for if it is more than five minutes doing from first to last 
 it will be spoiled. 
 
 Handkerchiefs, Scarfs, and Ribbons, are cleaned in the 
 same manner. I have confined myself to cleaning one 
 width at a time, so as not to confuse anybody that likes 
 to clean a silk dress, handkerchiefs, scarfs, ribbons, &c. 
 An unlimited number of breadths and pieces can be 
 cleaned with ease on the same principle. This is what 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 319 
 
 is understood by the trade as the English method, and 
 it is the best, for it thoroughly cleans the silk both sides. 
 
 French Board to Finish Silks. 
 
 Have a deal board about four feet six inches long, two 
 feet wide, and one inch thick ; cover this loosely w T ith 
 fine green or drab baize, well tacked down at the edges 
 of the board, and stuff it with wool from each end until 
 it is very tight and regular, with a rise in the centre and 
 sloping towards the edges. When this is done fasten 
 down the two ends like the sides, and the French board 
 for dressing silks is made ready for use. Now take a 
 width of silk or satin that has been cleaned or dyed, and 
 place it flat on the baize, and sponge it over with size 
 and water mixed. When this is done, pin down one 
 end, keeping the pins one inch apart, then the other end, 
 well stretching it, and then the two sides ; rub it with 
 the damp sponge and dry it before the fire, and when 
 dry unpin it, and it is finished. When there are a num- 
 ber of boards one pair of hands can finish several dresses 
 in a day. 
 
 The English method of finishing silks is by framing 
 (see page 28) ; handkerchiefs and scarfs are finished as 
 directed above. Another method is to have them 
 dressed at the presser's. Satins, scarfs, and handker- 
 chiefs look very well done so. 
 
 To Dry -Clean a Pale Blue Silk and a Pale Green Satin 
 
 Dress, taken apart. 
 
 Have one gallon of camphene, and divide it in equal 
 parts in two clean earthen pans, that will hold two 
 gallons each. Have a clean board longer and wider 
 than a width of silk, a clean brush, and two clean sheets 
 at hand, and begin and clean the pale blue silk. Take 
 one breadth from the dress and put it in the first liquor 
 of camphene, and from it on the board ; wet the brush 
 in the, camphene, and brush the width lengthwise with 
 
320 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 it ; when this is done pass it again through the first 
 liquor of camphene, then the second, and hang it over 
 this liquor to drain but only one minute. Then place 
 a clean sheet on the board, and put the width flat oh it ; 
 cover it in different parts of the sheet, and so dry it. 
 Hang it up in a hot room to take the smell of the cam- 
 phene off, which will be in a few hours. Take another 
 width and do the same with it as the first, and so go on 
 with one width after another until the dress is cleaned, 
 which must be done with great expedition to keep it all 
 one color and its color. 
 
 Without changing the camphene, board, or sheets, 
 proceed with cleaning the pale green satin dress. Begin 
 with one breadth, and put it in the first liquor of cam- 
 phene left from the blue silk ; then lay it flat on the 
 board, wrong side up, and brush it gently lengthwise. 
 If silks or satins are brushed across the width it frays, 
 and spoils them for wear ; turn it on the right side, and 
 brush that side gently also ; pass it through the first, 
 then the second liquor of camphene ; drain it, spread 
 the sheet on the board, and dry the satin with it; if 
 necessary, give it a second sheet ; brush it with a dry 
 brush on the face lengthwise, hang it to air, and it is 
 cleaned. Proceed with the remainder of the dress, piece 
 by piece, in the same manner, until it is all cleaned. 
 Finish the two dresses on the French board, the frame, 
 or send the satin to the presser, for him to finish it. 
 Both dresses ought to look like new, there is nothing to 
 hinder it ; if my instructions are particularly attended 
 to I would bet my life on the result. 
 
 To Clean whole Silk or Satin Dresses. 
 
 The safest way to dry-clean a silk or satin dress of any 
 color is, to take the body off the skirt, and clean each 
 part separately. If the dress is a valuable one, take off 
 the sleeves also. When they are cleaned, re-make them, 
 all the French workmen do it, why not the English, let 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 321 
 
 us follow a good example no matter where it comes 
 from. 
 
 Have two clean earthen vessels that will hold two 
 gallons each, and put half-a-gallon of camphene in each; 
 have a smooth board, six feet long and three feet wide, 
 suitable brushes, and four or five clean sheets. Be very 
 particular about the sheets being dry and clean. Your 
 sheeting board is not to be encumbered with all your 
 sheets on it, have only one on it. Some people make a 
 dreadful mess of their work with the best intention, from 
 their slovenly habits, such people must bear in mind 
 the song of Darby Kelly — 
 
 " That in his wrist he had the twist." 
 
 Begin by cleaning the body first. Put the body in 
 the first liquor of camphene, then lift it on to the board, 
 brush the inside well, and then the outside. When this 
 has been done, put it back in the first liquor of camphene, 
 then in the second, and let it drain over the second a 
 minute ; spread a sheet on the board, lay the dress on it, 
 and directly begin and rub it dry with the clean Indian 
 cotton cloths. While rubbing it, keep it smooth and 
 shape it, so as that-, when dry and cleaned, it will look 
 as if it had not been wetted. Take the sleeves next. 
 Clean them in the same manner as the body. The skirt 
 comes next, one after another, and it is to be cleaned 
 exactly in the same manner as the body and the sleeves, 
 by passing it through the two camphene liquors, brush- 
 ing and sheeting it up dry before leaving it. Dispatch 
 is the life and soul of this work, as the camphene is of 
 such a drying nature that it requires great expedition 
 in the cleaning. When the dress is done, it must be 
 hung up for some hours in an airy room. The smell of 
 the camphene will come off in a few hours in a very hot 
 stove room. The best method is to clean the camphene 
 work in the afternoon and hang it in the stove all night 
 to take the smell off. Any silk or satin dress can be 
 cleaned whole by this method, but it is safer to take the 
 21 
 
322 love's dyer axd scourer. 
 
 skirt off the body, which most cleaners do that intend 
 not to be beat. 
 
 To Dry-clean a printed Silk Shawl or Scarf. 
 
 These shawls and scarfs are printed gauze, printed 
 China crape, and brocaded silk. When they are very 
 much soiled, they are cleaned with Feild's soft soap. 
 Kinse out of the soap, and then a little tartaric acid and 
 cold water, wring them, and dry instantly in the dry 
 clean sheets, and they are done. But when they are not 
 much soiled they are cleaned in camphene, either way 
 is proper. 
 
 Have two vessels that will hold two pails each, and 
 put two quarts of camphene in each vessel and have a 
 clean board, and three sheets ready for use. Take the 
 shawl first and handle it in the first liquor of camphene, 
 then the second, and squeeze it tightly out of the cam- 
 phene, sheet it up dry, and rub it well with the flower, 
 with a fine cloth until it is dry, hang it up in the air, 
 and it is done. 
 
 The next is the scarf. Clean this in the same way as 
 the shawl in every respect, and it is done. 
 
 Gentlemen's fancy waistcoats, silk handkerchiefs, rib- 
 bons, ladies' mantles and scarfs, are all cleaned in the 
 same manner, with camphene, and dried in' sheets di- 
 rectly, and rubbed down well while damp to put them in 
 proper shape, and ironed with a box iron for a finish. 
 
 Paisley, and other shawls, are cleaned thoroughly, 
 sheeted up dry, and finished at the presser's; ladies' 
 white satin shoes are cleaned with camphene, and rubbed 
 dry with dry bread. 
 
 To Clean and Finish Three Table Covers. 
 
 I will take three of the most difficult table-covers to 
 clean, viz., one blue and white cotton and worsted, one 
 amber and claret, silk and worsted, and one printed cloth 
 table-cover. 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 323 
 
 Dissolve one bar of the best mottled soap in four gal- 
 lons of scalding water, and put one pound of pearlash in 
 it. Have three vessels that will hold eight gallons of 
 water each, and put in the first one pail of cold water 
 and three gallons of soap liquor ; in the second, one pail 
 of cold water and two gallons of soap liquor ; and in the 
 third, two pails of cold water and one gallon of soap 
 liquor. Have a vessel also with six pails of cold water, 
 and a tablespoonful of oil of vitriol in it. Begin clean- 
 ing the table-covers by taking the blue and white first, 
 and handle and rub it well in the first soap liquor ; wring 
 it well out, and put it in the second, handle and rub it 
 in this and wring it, and put it in the third soap liquor, 
 and do the same with it ; wring it out of this and put it 
 in the spirits, handle it for five minutes in this, get it 
 up, and give it one cold water ; fold it up to drain and 
 hang it up to dry, and it is done. 
 
 The next is the amber and claret. Clean this in the 
 first, second, and third soap liquors, after the blue cover, 
 and instead of spiriting it, give it a pound of common 
 table-salt in two pails of water, and work it well in it, 
 and give it a couple of cold waters after the salt water, 
 and hang it up to dry in a warm room, and it is done. 
 
 The next is the printed cloth table-cover. Clean this 
 in the same soap liquors the other two have left, and 
 give it a clean cold water directly out of the last soap 
 liquor, with a tablespoonful of oil of vitriol in it; handle 
 it well in this, and give it another cold water with a 
 tablespoonful of vitriol in it, and after it, one cold water, 
 fold and drain it, hang it to dry in a warn room, and it 
 is done. It must be dried quick, as there is a variety 
 of colors in it, and they will run into one another if too 
 long about. 
 
 Now these three table-covers are cleaned and dried. 
 The next process is the pressing, and when that is done, 
 they will look as well as new. They must be well shook 
 and brushed before they are sent to the presser's. 
 
324 love's dyer and scourer. 
 
 DIFFERENT SOAPS USED BY DYERS AND 
 
 SCOURERS. 
 
 The best mottled soap has the preference and always 
 will have, from the quantity of the best tallow that is 
 in it, and the small quantity of alkali used in making 
 it ; but it must be used at least blood-warm to get into 
 the work, and that does not do for particular sorts of 
 cleaning ; the only draw-back on it is that when it is 
 melted and cold it is congealed, and will not do so well 
 for cold scouring and cleaning. 
 
 Yellow soap is the next hard soap, and although it is 
 cheaper in price, it is dearer in the use of it, from the 
 quantity of fat, resin, oil, and other foreign matter that 
 is put into it, to take the place of the tallow ; it is sel- 
 dom a dyer and scourer uses it, and it congeals when 
 melted, so it is not much good for cold cleaning. 
 
 The common soft soap is made from fish oil, and is not 
 fit for general use, on account of the smell of the fish 
 oil stopping in the work ; it has one advantage in it for 
 us, that is, when it is dissolved it does not congeal, and 
 when cold it gets into the work and cleans it directly with- 
 out injury, and the oil that is in it improves the silk and 
 the color if the operator is not too long about the clean- 
 ing. This soap is now very little used by dyers and 
 scourers on account of the smell, but it was always used 
 until lately ; the smell is easily got rid of in cold clean- 
 ing, but it is the trouble we otherwise have to do so that 
 makes us not use it commonly. 
 
 Feild's soft and hard soap is in general use of late 
 years by dyers and scourers. It is made from palm oil, 
 and is very nourishing to silk and wool ; does not congeal 
 when melted, and on that account is good for cold clean- 
 ing ; does not injure the color if used with dispatch and 
 care, and has no unpleasant smell ; is cheaper than the 
 other soaps ; and on account of these general good 
 qualities, it is more used in the trade than any other. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 GExNERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE USE 
 OF ANILINE COLORS. 
 
 Messrs. Andreykovicz &Dltnk, Importers and Manufactur- 
 ing Chemists, 156 North Third Street, Philadelphia, and 213 
 E. Madison Street, Chicago, furnish the following general in- 
 structions for the use of aniline colors : — 
 
 GENERAL RULES. 
 
 First. Divide the quantity of Dye to be used in five parts, 
 begin the dyeing with one part, and let the bath not be over 
 100 degrees. All the color being taken up by the yarn, add 
 another part, and allow the heat to rise up to a boil, and so 
 keep adding the color at intervals. 
 
 Second. Heat and acids produce bluer shades with all ani- 
 line colors. To obtain redder shades of violet and blue use 
 less acid, and do not boil long. 
 
 ROSANILINE, SOLFERINO, OR MAGENTA CRYSTALS. 
 
 Solution. 
 
 Magenta may be dissolved either in water alone, or in alcohol 
 mixed with its volume of water. The solution in water is 
 made by adding to one part of crystals 200 parts of cold water, 
 and heating the liquid until the solution is completed, stirring 
 constantly during the operation. The solution in alcohol is 
 effected by adding to one part of crystals not more than 30 
 parts of cold diluted alcohol and heating the same, stirring 
 from time to time until all is dissolved. 
 
326 APPENDIX. 
 
 Dyeing. 
 
 Silk. — To be dyed lukewarm with a small addition of Tartaric 
 Acid. 
 
 Wool. — To be dyed boiling, but without any acid. 
 
 Cotton. — Can only be dyed after having been mordanted, 
 which is usually done with a mixture of Olive Oil and Sul- 
 phuric Acid, same as for Turkey Eed ; the following propor- 
 tions are very good : — 
 
 For 55 lbs. of Cotton you mix 12 ozs. of Olive Oil with 3 
 ozs. of Sulphuric Acid, and stir the mixture up for about a 
 quarter of an hour, until it becomes brown and heated. You 
 then add three-fourths of a quart of Alcohol until the solution 
 is complete. This mordant diluted with several quarts of 
 boiling water is afterwards thrown into a lukewarm bath, 
 wherein you mordant the Cotton, and then dry by heat. 
 
 The following is a new process for obtaining a good and 
 cheap mordant :- — 
 
 For 55 lbs. of Cotton, you dissolve 36 ozs. of tallow-soap in. 
 water, and add this solution to a hot water bath, through which 
 you draw the Cotton for about a quarter of an hour, then wring 
 three times, and dry it. Cheese dissolved in Ammonia may be 
 used to advantage instead of soap. 
 
 Dyeing. 
 
 To a hot water bath add the decoction of 3 lbs. Sumach, then 
 the dried, mordanted Cotton, and draw it six times through the 
 bath, after which add 9 ozs. of Bichloride of Tin ; again draw 
 the Cotton through, say about eight times, then wring it three 
 or four times. 
 
 A new bath is then prepared, to which the aqueous solution 
 of 5J ozs. of Magenta is gradually added; you dye the Cotton 
 about a quarter of an hour, then wash and dry. 
 
 Printing. 
 
 For Silk and Wool the diluted alcoholic solution, thickened 
 with Gum, is used; for Cotton warp, you thicken with a mixture 
 
APPENDIX. 327 
 
 of solution of Tragacanth, of Gum, and of Albumen (for instance, 
 5 parts of the first, 5 parts of the second, and one part of the last 
 solution). To prevent the running of Aniline colors, thickened 
 with Albumen and Gum, an addition of Glycerin is recom- 
 mended, which keeps the prints nicely moist, and the colors 
 also dry slower, and obtain more brightness. 
 
 CERISE. 
 
 The difference between this color and Magenta is simply that 
 the first dyes a considerably yellower tint than the second. With 
 Cerise you can easily produce various shades of browns, which 
 otherwise can only be obtained, with difficulty, by mixing dif- 
 ferent dyes, such as Orchil, Extract of Orchil or Cudbear, and 
 Brazil wood. 
 
 By adding other dye-stuffs, such as Sulphate of Indigo or 
 Turmeric, brown shades are obtained, which are equal to the 
 best browns dyed with Orchil. Cerise alone and in combina- 
 tion with other dye-stuffs, is evenly and easily dyed, producing 
 very brilliant shades; it costs only one-third of those obtained 
 from Orchil, and one-half of Brazil wood colors. 
 
 Solution. 
 In boiling water, same as Magenta, and filter before using. 
 
 Dyeing. 
 
 Silk. — Add to a hot bath a small quantity of soap, and throw 
 a solution of Cerise into it, and dye hot. Silk has to be washed 
 in cold water, and then drawn through a cold bath slightly 
 acidulated with Sulphuric Acid. The colors thus obtained are 
 very bright, and if you shade with Picric Acid, you can pro- 
 duce tints as fine as those dyed with Cochineal. 
 
 Wool. — Dissolve 2 lbs. of Cerise in 5 quarts of Acetic Acid, 
 or boiling water, and throw this solution into about 70 gallons 
 of water, then boil and filter. If you use for instance half of 
 this solution, you add for every 10 lbs. of Wool, 16 ozs. of pre- 
 pared Cream of Tartar, and then dye in this bath until the 
 shade is sufficiently deep; for yellowish shades, you add Tur- 
 
328 APPENDIX. 
 
 meric, and for bluish and deep shades, Sulphate of Indigo, 
 which is prepared by dissolving 2 lbs. of Indigo, in 8 lbs. of 
 strong Nordhausen Sulphuric Acid, and throwing this solution 
 into 6 quarts of water. 
 
 For 60 lbs. of Wool you take 1 lb. of Cerise, 6 lbs. of Acetic 
 Acid, and 2J- lbs. of Solution of Indigo. 
 
 The following is a more economical process: For 10 lbs. of 
 Embroidery Wool you take the filtered solution of 3 ozs. of Cerise, 
 4 ozs. of Turmeric, and 1 oz. of Bichromate of Potash, and as 
 much Sulphate of Indigo as you require for the intensity of the 
 desired shade. For the fashionable shades or*yellowish browns, 
 you have to use Cream of Tartar and Alum (Sulphate of Alu- 
 mina). 
 
 Wool in Flocks. — To dye 100 lbs. of Flocks a clear brown, 
 you take 48 ozs. of Bichromate of Potash and 24 ozs. of Sul- 
 phuric Acid, and boil this mixture for an hour. You then pre- 
 pare a bath, and add to it 40 ozs. of Cerise, and 48 ozs. of Sal 
 Ammoniac, and boil for ten minutes in this bath. You deepen 
 the shade with a decoction of Logwood. 
 
 Cotton. — As Magenta dyes pinks too bluish, Cerise is now 
 used instead, and with success. The same mordants are used 
 as for Magenta. 
 
 Pkinttng. 
 
 Silk. Wool, and Cotton. — To be treated same as Magenta, 
 and by adding Carmine of Indigo the Orchil shades are very 
 well substituted. 
 
 SIENNA BROWN. 
 
 This color is equal to the other Aniline colors as regards 
 brightness and easy working. 
 
 Solution. 
 In strong Alcohol, by boiling. The solution to be filtered. 
 
APPENDIX. 329 
 
 Dyeing. 
 
 Silk. — You dye in a bath acidulated with Sulphuric Acid, 
 and of 40° C, to which a small quantity of soap has been added, 
 heat gradually to the boiling point, and then wash in an acidu- 
 lated bath. You can shade yellowish with Turmeric reddish, 
 and deep by adding a few drops of Hofmann's Yiolet. 
 
 Wool. — To be dyed boiling. You shade same as silk, with 
 Turmeric and Hofmann's Yiolet, or else with Campeachy and 
 Brazil wood. 
 
 Cotton. — Same as Magenta. 
 
 Printing. 
 
 Silk. — Dissolve 7 ozs. Sienna Brown in 1 quart of boiling 
 Alcohol, let this solution stand, and then filter. Afterwards 
 thicken this preparation with 2 quarts of Gum water and 1 gill 
 of Glycerin, and print. 
 
 Deeper shades can be obtained by adding a few drops of 
 Alexandra reddish or Parme Hofmann, according to the shade 
 required. 
 
 Wool and Cotton. — Same as Magenta. 
 
 BLUES. 
 
 soluble in alcohol. 
 
 Solution. 
 
 You require the most concentrated Alcohol, of which you 
 take H\J parts for the reddish and bluish blues, and 40 and 50 
 parts for the greenish. You mix the powder with Alcohol, let 
 it stand for a few hours, stirring from time to time, and then 
 heat it in a water bath in a vessel to the top of which a tube is 
 attached to condense the alcoholic vapors, afterwards you filter. 
 If you let the solution stand for a day, you obtain brighter 
 shades. Before using the solution, it is advisable to dilute it 
 with about ten times its volume of cold water. Zinc vessels 
 have to be strictly avoided in all these operations; they reduce 
 the color. 
 
330 APPENDIX. 
 
 Dyeing. 
 
 Silk. — You acidulate the bath with Sulphuric Acid, and 
 commence dyeing at 40° C, and then increase the temperature 
 to the boiling point, adding the color by degrees. When the 
 desired shade is obtained, you wash the Silk in an acidulated 
 hot bath, then wash, and afterwards draw through a cold soap 
 bath, wash again, and pass through a boiling acidulated bath 
 for greenish shades, and through a lukewarm for other shades. 
 
 Souples are dyed in the same manner, except that you add 
 souple water. 
 
 Wool. — To dye even, and to obtain fast shades, the Wool 
 ought to be mordanted, during 30 to 45 minutes, as follows: — 
 
 Embroidery Wool. Carded Wool. 4 
 
 For 20 lbs. of Wool you take :— For 20 lbs. of Wool you take : — 
 12 ozs. of Bichloride of Tin, 3 ozs. of Bichloride of Tin, 
 
 2 lbs. of Alum, and 1| lb. of Alum, and 
 
 20 ozs. of Sulphuric Acid. 1 lb. of Sulphuric Acid. 
 
 Afterwards wash carefully. 
 
 The Wool is dyed in an acidulated boiling bath, and add the 
 color by degrees. After having dyed for about an hour, wash 
 in an acidulated hot bath. 
 
 Printing. 
 
 Cotton. — Dye first with Prussian Blue, and then shade with 
 Aniline Blue. 
 
 On Silk, Wool, and Cotton same as Magenta. 
 
 BLUES. 
 
 soluble in water. 
 Solution. 
 In 50 parts of boiling water, then filter. 
 
 Dyeing. 
 •Silk. — Same as the Blues soluble in Alcohol. 
 Wool.— Wash the Wool with Soap and Soda, theu rinse it 
 
APPENDIX. 331 
 
 and pass it into a hot bath containing a small quantity of Sili- 
 cate of Soda; afterwards into a cold bath slightly acidulated 
 with Sulphuric Acid, and dye in an acidulated hot bath to which 
 you add the solution of Blue. Boil until the desired shade is 
 obtained, and then wash. 
 
 Cotton. — To be dyed in the same manner as the Blues solu- 
 ble in Alcohol. 
 
 Printing. 
 
 Wool and Silk. — Thicken the solution with Gum and 
 Glycerin, and proceed as usual. 
 
 Cotton. — Dissolve 1 oz. of soluble Blue in 20 ozs. of water, 
 and one-fifth of an ounce of Carbonate of Soda, filter the solu- 
 tion, and when completely cold mix with it half a quart of 
 Acetate of Alumina of 15° Be., and 3 to 5 quarts of solution 
 of Gum or Tragacanth, then print, steam, and wash in running 
 water. 
 
 YIOLETS. 
 
 soluble in alcohol. 
 
 Solution. 
 
 You must observe exactly the same instructions as for Blue, 
 except that one part of Violet requires only 20 to 30 parts 
 of strong Alcohol to effect the complete solution. 
 
 Dyeing. 
 
 Silk. — To be dyed in the same manner as Blue, but with 
 less Sulphuric Acid, and without washing in an acidulated 
 bath. 
 
 "Wool. — The same mordants are used as for Blue, only a 
 smaller quantity of Bichloride of Tin is employed for redder 
 shades. The same violet will produce bluer shades if you use 
 more acid and dye at a higher temperature; reddish shades 
 require less acid, and the Wool should be left in the bath until 
 it is cold. 
 
 .Cotton. — The Cotton is mordanted with soap, in the same 
 manner as Magenta, and put into a hot bath acidulated with 
 
332 APPENDIX. 
 
 Sulphuric Acid ; and then rinse and dye in a hot bath contain- 
 ing the necessary quantity of color, and 4J ozs. of Bichloride 
 of Tin. The colors thus obtained do not soil, and are prefer- 
 able to those obtained by mordanting with Oil. 
 
 The following is another receipt for dyeing in proportion to 
 55 lbs. of cotton : — 
 
 Dye first with Prussian blue, then add to the hot water bath 
 11 ozs. of Bichloride of Tin, then the boiling solution of 2£ 
 ozs. of Magenta, and when it is completed add the spirit solu- 
 tion of 2 ozs. Yiolet, draw the cotton six times through the 
 bath, and wring it three or four times. 
 
 To fix the color and to prevent its soiling it is an improve- 
 ment to add to the dye bath 2J ozs. of starch. 
 
 Printing. 
 Same as with Magenta and Blue. 
 
 VIOLETS. 
 soluble in water. 
 * Solution. 
 
 Dissolve in boiling water same as the Blues. 
 
 Dyeing. 
 
 Silk. — Commence dyeing lukewarm in an acidulated bath, 
 and increase the temperature gradually to the boiling point. 
 
 Wool. — Same as Blue, soluble in water. 
 
 Cotton. — Same as Violet, soluble in Alcohol. 
 
 Printing. 
 Silk and Wool. — Same as Blue, soluble in water. 
 
 Cotton.— Dissolve 1J oz. of Violet in 2 lbs. of water, and | 
 oz. of Soda Crystals, filter, and add, when completely cold, 2 
 lbs. of Acetate of Alumina, and thicken with 1} quart of solu- 
 tion of Tragacanth, print, steam, and wash. 
 
APPENDIX. 333 
 
 IODINE YIOLETS. 
 
 SOLUBLE IN ALCOHOL. 
 ALEXANDRA RED AND BLUE AND HOFMANN'S VIOLET. 
 
 The advantage these colors offer, is their greater brightness, 
 especially by artificial light, and the facility with which they 
 can be used. 
 
 Solution. 
 Dissolve in 10 parts of Alcohol. 
 
 Dyeing. 
 
 Silk. — In a verv weak and acidulated bath, commencing 
 lukewarm and increasing the heat to the boiling point. 
 
 Wool. — To be dyed without acid or mordant in a boiling 
 bath. 
 
 Cotton. — Same as the other violets. 
 
 Printing. 
 On Silk, Wool, and Cotton same as the other colors. 
 
 IODINE YIOLETS. 
 
 SOLUBLE IN WATER. 
 
 ALEXANDRA RED AND BLUE AND HOFMANN'S VIOLET. 
 
 Solution. 
 
 Boil one part of Violet with 50 parts of water, stirring fre- 
 quently, and filter. 
 
 Dyeing. 
 Same as Iodine Violets, soluble in Alcohol. 
 
 Printing. 
 Same as the other colors. 
 
334 APPENDIX. 
 
 ANILINE GREEN. 
 
 IN PASTE OR POWDER. 
 
 This Green distinguishes itself by the purity of its shade, 
 particularly by artificial light. 
 
 Solution. 
 
 Dilute the paste with 5 to 10 parts of cold water, and one- 
 tenth part of Sal Ammoniac, and add the filtered solution to 
 the dye-bath. By grinding the powder in the proportion of 1 
 to 3 Sal Ammoniac, a dark paste is produced, which dissolves 
 easily in cold water. The powder can be dissolved equally well 
 in concentrated Alcohol, by boiling in the same manner as the 
 other colors. 
 
 Dyeing. 
 
 Silk. — Commence dyeing lukewarm, in a bath slightly acidu- 
 lated with Sulphuric Acid, increase the temperature to the 
 boiling point, and then leave the silk in the bath until the same 
 becomes cold. 
 
 Wool. — Dye with very little acid, and heat gradually up to 
 80° C. An addition of Alum is recommended. 
 
 Cotton. — The easiest mode of dyeing Green is by mordant- 
 ing with Tannin. 
 
 PREPARED ANILINE GREEN. 
 
 silk, wool, and cotton. 
 Printing-. 
 
 For Silkj Wool, and Wool and Cotton, Starch, Tragacanth, or 
 Senegal Gum may be used for thickening. 
 
 To obtain a deep shade, two parts of the solution have to be 
 mixed with one part of Prepared Green. 
 
 For Cotton, the best method is a mixture of three parts of 
 thick solution Tragacanth with one p*art of solution of Albumen. 
 
 The mixture of Green with the solution has to be made cold, 
 as heat before printing partially destroys the color. 
 
APPENDIX. 335 
 
 Vessels of Metal have to be avoided, and those of Glass, 
 Wood, or Earthenware, to be used. 
 
 The printed goods ought, same as the other aniline colors, 
 not to be steamed too much, and have to be thoroughly washed 
 after steaming. 
 
 Before the latter process, the Green will look grayish; steam- 
 ing develops and fixes the color. 
 
 ANILINE BLACK. 
 
 FOR PRINTING AND DYEING COTTON. 
 
 The fastest and most beautiful of all Blacks on Cotton. It 
 will stand dyeing with Madder, and does not absorb any color, 
 nor does it alter the same. 
 
 The use of this Black with its various operations depends 
 upon different receipts, which are furnished on special demand. 
 
 YELLOW AND ORANGE. 
 
 Dissolve in Water, dye boiling, with the addition of some 
 Acetic Acid. 
 
 GREEN. 
 
 WITH PICRIC ACID AND INDIGO CMtMINE. 
 
 Mordant for 10 lbs. yarn, J lb. patent Alum, 2 ozs. Glauber 
 Salt, 2 ozs. Oil of Vitriol, boil the yarn in it, and add enough 
 Carmine Indigo to dye a deep blue. 
 
 If the shade is even, stop boiling, and add a little solution of 
 Picric Acid, work the yarn well, and add more Picric until the 
 shade is obtained. 
 
 The New Patent or Concentrated Alum, the Double Chloride 
 of Tin, the Prepared Tartar, as well as all kinds of New Dyes, 
 can be procured of Andreykovicz & Dunk. 156 North Third 
 Street, Philadelphia, Pa., and 213 E. Madison Street, Chicago. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Account of silkworm, 31 
 Acetate of iron, 194 
 
 of lead, 247 
 Acetic acid, to make iron liquor, 81 
 Acid, muriatic, 158 
 
 oxalic, 277 
 
 tartaric, 274 
 Acids in scouring, 119 
 
 to make iron liquor with, 81 
 
 Alkalies in scouring, 119 
 
 Alum, 49, 50, 62, 97, 102, 103, 104, 105, 
 
 107, 108, 128, 141, 199, 210, 234, 
 
 235, 243, 248, 249, 250, 264, 272, 
 
 273, 278, 279, 281, 283, 284, 285 
 
 concentrated, 335 
 
 mordant, 246 
 
 to dye puce, 102 
 
 to dye ruby, 97 
 
 and weld, to dye with, 71 
 Amalgamation of soap with oil, 82 
 Amber, 67, 108, 154, 155, 156, 176, 177, 
 178, 179, 181 
 
 for cotton, 224 
 
 for feathers, 274 
 Ammonia, 267 
 
 for carpet cleanin'g, 294 
 
 paste, 161 
 Ancient manufacture of silk, 34 
 
 soap boiler, 44 
 
 tapestry, to clean, 299 
 Aniline black, 335 
 
 colors, 325 
 
 green, 334, 335 
 Annotto, 42, 73, 107, 108, 224, 229, 231, 
 241, 269, 272, 274, 275 
 
 to dye with, 67 
 Appendix, 325 
 Aquafortis, 199 
 Archil, 184, 188 
 
 Argol, 83, 150, 151, 191, 193, 271, 284 
 Art of cleaning and scouring, 288 
 
 of silk dyeing, 31 
 Ash, 257 
 Azuring silk, 41 
 
 22 
 
 Balsall-heath blue, 130, 212 
 Barilla, 43 
 
 Binder of colors, 192 
 Bird of paradise, 68 
 Black, 78, 79, 80, 187, 188, 189. 190, 
 191, 194, 195, 254, 255, 256, 257, 
 258, 259, 260, 261 
 
 bonnets, size for, 287 
 
 drapery, 309 
 
 for bonnets, 280, 286 
 
 for feathers, 270, 271, 275 
 
 from aniline, 335 
 
 to dye, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 88, 89 
 without cleaning in soap, 82 
 
 without spiriting, 84 
 Bleaching cotton, 227, 228 
 
 powder, 246 
 Blue, 252 
 
 drapery, 309 
 
 dyeing, 49 
 
 for bonnets, 278, 279 
 
 for cotton, 210, 211, 212, 213, 218, 
 219 
 
 French, for feathers, 267 
 
 mazarine, 265 
 
 pale, 149 
 
 from aniline, 329, 330 
 
 stone, 62, 83, 247, 248. 250, 254, 
 271, 279, 281, 283, 284, 286 
 
 to dye, 127, 128, 130 
 feathers, 263, 265 
 
 vat, 132 
 
 vitriol, 247 
 
 white, 41 
 Board for French cleaning, 310 
 Boiling off, 38 
 Bonnet cleaning, 277 
 Brasiletto, 96 
 Brazil, 97, 102, 272 
 
 to dye with, 95 
 Brimstone, 137, 277 
 Brocaded silk dresses, to clean, 318 
 Brown, 183, 184, 194, 241, 243, 244 
 
 amber, 108 
 
338 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Brown — 
 
 bonnets, size for, 287 
 
 for bonnets, 281 
 
 for feathers, 271, 275 
 
 senna, 328 
 Browns, to dye, 157 
 Brussels carpets, to clean, 289 
 Buff, 67 
 
 for cotton, 224, 226 
 
 for feathers', 272 
 Butchers, blue for, 252 
 Buttermilk, 120 
 
 Calender, 201, 202 
 
 to moire antique silks, 208 
 Calendering curtains, 297 
 Calico printing, 209 
 Campeacky wood, 186 
 Camphene, 120 
 
 cleaning with, 309 
 Carded wool, mordant for, 330 
 Carpets, to clean, 289, 290, 291, 292, 
 
 294 
 Catechu, 104 
 Cerise, 325 
 Chalk, 210 . 
 
 Chemic blue, 70, 139, 141, 210 
 Cherry color, 68 
 
 Chevreul on harmony of colors, 308 
 Chh^a crape shawls, to dye, 137 
 China and East Indies first to make 
 
 silk, 34 
 Chip bonnets, 277 
 Chloride of tin, double, 335 
 Chocolate brown for bonnets, 281 
 Chrome, 193. 195 
 
 black, 193 
 Chromic acid, 193 
 Cinnamon, 241 
 
 browns, 69 
 
 for feathers, 275 
 Cistern for dye-house, 19 
 Claret, 75, 77, 153, 183, 184 
 
 for feathers, 271, 272 
 
 to dye, 104, 106 
 Cleaning, art of, 288 
 
 curtains, 297 
 
 damask, 302 
 
 curtains, 306 
 
 directions for, 199 
 
 feathers, 263 
 
 and finishing, 93 
 
 goods, 43 
 
 moreens, 300, 302, 303 
 
 satin curtains, 305 
 
 watered tabaret curtains, 314 
 
 wool, 118-123 
 
 worsted curtains, 306 
 Coburg cloth, to dye, 244 
 
 Cobourgs, to dye, 194 
 Cochineal, 99, 102, 106, 126, 136, 158, 
 160, 169, 174, 177, 185 
 paste, 161 
 to dye crimson, 101 
 to dye orange, 102 
 to dye with, 162, 163 
 Cockle to heat drying-room, 26 
 Cocoanut fibre, to dye, 284 
 
 soap, 233 
 Cocoon of silk-worm, 33 
 Colors, harmony of, 308 
 Common hot press, 205 
 
 sour, meaning of, 110 
 Concentrated alum, 335 
 Copperas, 83, 153, 183, 190, 191, 194, 
 196, 239, 240, 241, 243, 245, 247, 
 248, 251, 254, 255, 260, 261, 271, 
 272, 275, 276, 278, 279, 280, 281, 
 282, 286 
 Coppers for dye-house, 18 
 Copper, sulphate of, 247 
 Cotton, 209 
 
 blue vat, 214, 215, 216 
 damask cleaning, 303 
 
 curtains, to clean, 126 
 dyed with aniline, 326 
 dye-house, 25 
 dyer's drying-room, 30 
 stockings, to dye, 261, 262 
 velvet, to dye, 256 
 Crimson, 162, 163, 164, 165, 172, 173, 
 182, 185, 236 
 damask, to clean, 302 
 for bonnets, 285 
 for feathers, 272 
 silk, 93 
 spirits, 285 
 
 to make, 95 
 to dye silks, 95, 96, 98, 101 
 to dye with cochineal, 101 
 vat with Brazil, 95 
 Crude tartar, 279 
 Crystals of tin, 54 
 Cuba fustic, 143 
 
 Cudbear, 42, 53, 54, 73, 75, 108, 137, 
 138, 147, 148, 149, 150, 163, 182, 
 183, 184, 194, 240, 271, 276, 277, 
 278, 286 
 Curd soap, 41 
 Curling feathers, 264 
 Curtains, to clean, 297 
 Cutch, 104- 
 
 Cylinder to finish merinoes and Co- 
 bourgs, 207 
 
 Damask, 136, 138, 139 ' 
 
 bed and window curtains, 93 
 cleaned, 124, 127 
 
INDEX. 
 
 339 
 
 Damask — 
 
 curtains, to clean, 306 
 
 to dye, 131 
 Dark greens, 73 
 Description of dye-house, 17 
 Devonshire brown for bonnets, 281 
 Dirt. 288 
 
 Drabs, 74, 112, 146, 149, 150, 237, 238, 
 239 
 
 fawn color, 113 
 
 for feathers, 276 
 Drapery, hints on, 308 
 Dry-cleaning, 289 
 Drying-room, 26 
 
 for skein silk, 29 
 
 for cotton dyer, 30 
 Drysalters, 262 
 Dublin, dye works in, 24 
 Dutch first calico printers, 219 
 Dye-house, 17 
 
 for cotton, 25 
 Dyeing feathers, 263 
 
 fleecy wool, 24 
 
 pale blue, 49 
 
 and scouring, 117 
 
 silk, 25 
 
 in the worm, 36 
 
 with safflower, 63 
 
 wool, 24 
 Dyer and scourer's drying-room, 26 
 Dyers of skein-silk, 25 
 Dyer's plant, 17 
 
 soaps, 324 
 Dye works in Dublin, 24 
 
 Early knowledge of silk, 35 
 
 East India Company silk manufacture, 
 
 35 
 East Indies and China first to make 
 
 silk, 34 
 Ebony, 70, 109, 268, 273, 284 
 kinds of, 146 
 to dye with, 143, 145 
 Embossing machine, 205 
 Embroidery wool, mordant for, 330 • 
 Emerald green, 200 
 English carpets, to clean, 289 
 Esterhazy, 114 
 Expense of silk formerly, 35 
 Extract, Goulard's, 247 
 
 False green, 2-31 
 Fast gray, 136, 137 
 
 Fawn color, 74. 114, 149, 150, 151, 156 
 drabs, 113 
 for bonnets, 279 
 Feather dyeing, 263 
 Feathers, to curl, 264 
 Feeding of silk-worm, 32 
 
 Field's soap, 262 
 
 Figured silk curtains, to clean, 311 
 Finishing and cleaning, 93 
 damask, 303 
 moreen. 303 
 press, 205 
 worsted, 303 
 First printed cotton dress, 209 
 Fleece, 118 
 
 Fleecy wool, dyeing of, 24 * 
 Flesh white, 42 
 Frame for drying, 27 
 to finish silks, 28 
 French blue dyed with nitrate of iron, 
 54 
 for feathers. 267 
 woollens, 195 
 board to finish silks, 319 
 cleaning, 309 
 merino, to dye, 149 
 white, 42 
 Friction calender, 202 
 Fuller's earth, 135, 290 
 Fulling herb, 120 
 Furniture cleaning, 297, 298 
 
 covers, to dye and clean, 131 
 Fustic, 72, 77, 78, 80, 139, 141, 150, 
 194, 195, 219, 220, 238, 240, 241, 
 245, 251, 254, 255, 256, 257, 261, 
 270, 271, 274, 275, 276, 279, 281, 
 282, 286 
 to dye with, 72 
 young, 141 
 
 Gall, 290 
 Giquilite, 58 
 Gold color, 107 
 Goods, cleansing, 43 
 Goulard's extract, 217 
 Grain crimson, 101 
 
 spirits, to make, 158 
 
 tin, 158 
 Grass green, 70, 145, 152 
 Gray, 111, 136, 137, 138, 239 
 
 pearl, for bonnets, 284 
 
 silver, for bonnets, 278 
 Green, 166, 249 
 
 copperas, 247 
 
 drapery, 308 
 
 emerald, 200 
 
 false, 251 
 
 for bonnets, 284 
 
 for cotton, 219, 220 
 
 for feathers, 268 
 
 for woollen, 141 
 
 from aniline, 334, 335 
 
 myrtle, 152 
 
 pale, 139, 141 
 
 sage, 150 
 
340 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Green — 
 
 silk dyed with fustic, 72 
 shades of, 73 
 to dye, 143, 144, 146 
 with alum and weld, 71 
 woollens, to dye, 138, 139 
 worsted thread, to dye, 154 
 
 Hair brown, 75, 105 
 Handkerchiefs, to clean, 318 
 Handling, 23 
 
 in the copper, 24 
 
 the work, 23 
 Harmony of colors, 308 
 Hearth-rugs, to clean, 295, 296 
 Hints on color and complexion, 308 
 How silkworm spins, 32 
 
 to frame silk, 28 
 Hydraulic press, 205 
 
 Indigo, 278, 284 
 
 blue vat for feathers, 266 
 
 carmine for green, 335 
 
 history of, 58 
 
 to dye with, 130 
 
 vat, to make, 61, 135 
 Instructions for aniline colors, 325 
 Invisible greens, 73 
 Iodine violets, from aniline, 333 
 Iron, acetate of, 194 
 
 filings, 77, 80 
 
 liquor, to make with acetic and 
 nitric acids, 81 
 
 nitrate of, 266, 270 
 
 nitrid of,' 259 
 
 sulphate of, 247 
 
 to make nitrate of, 80, 81 
 Isatis, 133 
 Italian way to dye, 160 
 
 Jet, to make, for silks, 91 
 for woollens, 91 
 
 Kelp, 43 
 
 Kermes, 160, 167, 168 
 
 Kettle pegs, 51 
 
 Lac, 170, 171, 172, 173 
 Lace fringes, to clean, 315 
 Lavender, 111 
 
 blue, 53 
 
 for bonnets, 279 
 
 for feathers, 276 
 
 vat, 110, 111, 112, 114 
 Lead, sugar of, 235, 247 
 Leghorn, 68 
 
 bonnets, 277 
 
 for cotton, 224 
 
 for feathers, 272 
 
 Length of thread in cocoon, 34 
 Lilac, 115 
 
 for bonnets, 282 
 Lime, 134 
 
 grease, to take out, 254 
 oxymuriate of, 227, 228, 235, 246 
 water, 245, 255 
 Lining, to clean, 298 
 Logwood, 80, 102, 184, 186, 187, 190, 
 191, 195, 239, 240, 248, 249, 251, 
 254. 255, 256, 257, 260, 270, 271, 
 273, 274, 275, 276, 279, 280, 281, 
 282, 286 
 for purple, 62 
 to dye with, 159 
 Lumbe, first to introduce the manufac- 
 ture of silk in England, 35 
 Lyons preparation, 197 
 
 Machine for embossing, 205 
 
 for watering silks, 204 
 Macqueer's method of dyeing, 57 
 Madder, 134, 135, 160, 175, 177, 235, 
 279 
 
 red, 234 
 
 to dye with, 77 
 Magenta, 325 
 Manufacture of silk by ancients, 34 
 
 of starch, 213 
 Marone, 75, 175, 183, 184, 194 
 
 for bonnets, 285 
 
 for feathers, 271, 272 
 
 to dye, 103 
 Mazarine blue, 265 
 Merinoes, how cleaned, 124 
 
 to dye, 136, 138, 139 
 Milk white, 42 
 Miravelines, 286 
 Mordant, 193 
 
 alum, 246 
 
 of iron and tin, 58 
 Moreen embossing, 205 
 
 striping machine, 204 
 
 watering machine, 204 
 Moreens, 136, 138, 139, 201 
 
 cleaned, 124, 127, 130 
 
 scarlet, to clean and water, 300 
 
 to dj^e, 131 
 
 to water, 201 
 Moulting of silkworm, 31 
 Muriate of tin, 146, 159, 178, 181, 195, 
 
 196, 249, 274, 276, 280 
 Muriatic acid, 57, 158, 199 
 Myrtle green, 71, 152 
 
 Nankeen for cotton, 226 
 Nankin silk, 35 
 Natural state of silk, 36 
 Neat's-foot oil, 270 
 
INDEX. 
 
 341 
 
 Nitrate of iron, 54, 56, 57, 79, 226, 
 270 
 
 dyeing with, 52 
 
 to make, 80, 81 
 Nitric acid, 199 
 
 to make iron liquor, 81 
 
 used in dyeing, 89 
 Nitrid of iron, 259 
 
 to dye with, 218 
 Nutgalls, 284 
 Nutgall liquor, 234 
 
 Oak-dust, 78 
 
 Oak sawdust, 245, 261 
 
 Oil, neat's-foot, 270 
 
 of vitriol, 46, 74,198, 259 
 
 to amalgamate with soap, 82 
 Olive, 150, 157, 240 
 
 bonnets, size for, 287 
 
 for bonnets, 286 
 Olives in silk, 73 
 Orange, 176, 177, 241 
 
 aniline, 335 
 
 drapery, 309 
 
 for feathers, 269 
 
 to dye with cochineal, 102 
 Orchil, 53, 73, 115, 184, 272', 273, 274, 
 
 275, 276, 279, 282, 284 
 Orleans, to dye, 194 
 Oxalic acid, 277 
 
 Oxymuriate of lime, 227, 228, 235, 246, 
 247 
 
 Palm soap, 233 
 Paphron, 120 
 Parasols, silk for, 72 
 Parchment size, 277 
 
 to make, 285 
 Parisian preparation, 197 
 Paste, blue, 51, 199, 268 
 to dye with, 51 
 
 for woollens, 161 
 Pastel, 133 
 Peach, 115 
 
 for bonnets, 277 
 
 vat, 110 
 
 wood, 95, 97, 103, 104, 105, 184, 
 194, 243, 248, 249, 273, 281 
 Pea green, 70, 145 
 Pearlash, 134, 135, 200, 224, 231, 233, 
 
 235, 241, 269* 
 Pearl gray for bonnets, 284 
 Persian carpets, to clean, 289 
 Phalena bombyz, 31 
 Picric acid for green, 335 
 Pink for cotton, 229 
 
 for feathers, 268 
 
 saucers, 268, 269 
 
 white, 42 
 
 Pitch calender to moire antique silks, 
 
 208 
 Phim color, 247, 248, 249 
 Pomona green, 70 
 Pompeii, soap-boiler's shop in, 44 
 Ponco, for feathers, 269 
 Poppy, to dye silks, 69 
 Potash, 255 
 Potato-starch, 120 
 Powder for bleaching, 246 
 Prepared aniline green, 334 
 Preparations for dyes, 197, 198 
 Preparing woollen goods, 123 
 Price of fustic, 143 
 Primrose, 109 
 
 for feathers, 272 
 Printed furniture, to clean, 298 
 
 silk shawl, to clean, 322 
 Prussian blue, 56, 196 
 Prussiate, 52, 196, 266, 279 
 
 dyeing with, 52 
 
 to dye with, 85 
 
 of potash, 57 
 Puce, for feathers, 273, 274 
 
 spirits to make, 93 
 
 to dye silks, 96 
 
 to dye with alum, 102 
 
 vat, 109, 110 
 Punching tubs, 23 
 Pure white, 41 
 Purple, for bonnets, 283 
 
 from logwood, 62 
 
 Quantities used, 188 
 Quercitron, 70, 177, 178, 179, 223, 274 
 bark, to dye with, 146, 155 
 
 Rappee, 75, 105, 153, 183, 184, 241 
 
 for feathers, 271 
 Raw silk, 36 
 
 Recleaning woollen cloths, 121 
 Red, 178 
 
 drapery, 308 
 
 madder, 234 
 
 prussiate, 52, 53, 56 
 
 sanders, 253 
 Reds, Turkey, 233 
 
 Redwood, 194, 242, 245, 253, 281, 282 
 Redyeing, 87, 88, 89, 93 
 
 cotton damask, 126, 130 
 Renovating, 87 
 Ribbons, to clean, 318 
 Rinsing out the soap, 46 
 Rosaniline, 325 
 Rose, for feathers, 267 
 
 pink, 231 
 Royal blue, 57 
 
 for wool, 134, 135 
 Royalty find silk too expensive, 35 
 
342 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Ruby, 75, 115, 182, 184, 185 
 
 for feathers, 271, 272 
 
 to dye in the alum way, 97 • 
 
 Rules for aniline colors, 325 
 
 Safflower, 213, 229, 231, 232, 241, 268, 
 269 
 
 to dve with, 63 
 Saffron, 63 
 Sage, 150 
 Sago, 257 
 
 to stiffen with, 255 
 Salmon, for feathers, 272 
 Sal-nixon, 195, 196 
 Sal soda, 44 
 Salt, 192 
 Salts of sorrel, 277 
 
 spirits of, 158 
 Sanders, 78 
 
 red, 253 
 Sapan wood, 96 
 Satin curtains, to clean, 305 
 
 dresses, to clean, 318, 319, 320 
 Saxon blue, 49, 50, 128, 131, 138, 140, 
 147,210,212,263,274,276, 
 268 
 to dye with, 50 
 to make, 60 
 
 greens on silks, 70 
 Scarfs, to clean, 318 
 Scarlet, 68, 168, 169, 172, 173 
 
 damask, to clean, 302 
 
 for feathers, 269 
 
 moreens, to clean and water, 300 
 
 spirits, 160 
 
 to dye in grain, 102 
 Scourer's drying-room, 26 
 
 soaps, 324 
 Scouring, art of, 288 
 Senna brown, 328 
 Shades of white, 41 
 Short account of silkworm, 31 
 Silk cleaned with camphene, 309 
 
 dyed with aniline, 326 
 
 dyeing of, 25, 31 
 
 embossing, 205 
 
 for parasols, &c, 72 
 
 goods, cleansing, 44 
 
 in its natural state, 36 
 
 of Nankin, 35 
 
 jet, to make for, 91 
 
 stockings, to dye, 257 
 
 to dye black without cleaning in 
 soap, 82 
 
 to dye crimson, 95, 96, 98, 101 
 
 to dye puce, 96 
 
 to frame for drying, 29 
 
 velvets, 86 
 
 watering machine, 204 
 
 Silkworm, account of, 31 
 Silver gray for bonnets, 278 
 Size, 282 
 
 for bonnets, 287 
 
 parchment, 277 
 to make, 285 
 Skein-silk dyers, 25 
 
 drying-room, 29 
 Slate, 239 
 
 for bonnets, 279, 282 
 
 for feathers, 276 
 Soap, rinsing out, 46 
 
 used by scourers, 324 
 
 wort, 119 
 
 to make, 43 
 Soda, 53, 241, 242, 251, 256, 277, 279, 
 
 282, 286 
 Soft soap, to amalgamate with oil, 82 _ 
 Solferino, 325 
 Sorrel juice, 120 
 Sorting, 46 
 
 Spinniug silk by worm, 32 
 Spiriting, 46 
 
 to dye without, 84 
 
 woollen goods, 123 
 Spirit of salts, 195, 199 
 Spirits, crimson, 285 
 
 of salts, to make, 158 
 
 to make puce, 93 
 Spitalfields preparation, 197, 198 
 Starch, 213 
 
 from flour, 214 
 Steel filings, 196 
 Stiffening, 203 
 Stockings, to dye, 257 
 Stove to heat irons, 26 
 Straw bonnets, 277 
 
 color, 68, 109 
 Striping machine for moreens, 204 
 Struthian, 119 
 Subacetate of lead, 247 
 Sugar of lead, 235, 243, 247, 248, 249 
 Sulphate of copper, 247 
 
 of iron, 247 
 Sulphuric acid, 198 
 Sulphuring silk, 41 
 
 Sumach, 74, 147, 183, 194, 235, 236, 
 238, 239, 240, 241, 243, 245, 248, 
 249, 251, 253, 254, 255, 256, 261, 
 276 
 
 Tabaret, cleaning, 3#3, 304 
 
 crimson, to dye, 98 
 Table covers, to clean, 322 
 
 ' to dye and clean, 131 
 Tammy lining, 93 
 
 to clean, 315 
 to dye, 178 
 Tapestry, to clean, 289, 299 
 
INDEX. 
 
 343 
 
 Tartar, 139, 141, 195, 196, 229 
 
 crude, 279 
 Tartaric acid, 64, 199, 212, 224, 229, 
 
 232, 264, 265, 266, 268, 269, 274 
 Tenter ground in Dublin, 24 
 Terra Japonica, 104 
 Thread, worsted, 154 
 Tin, crystals of, 54 
 
 grain, 158 
 
 muriate of, 146, 249, 274, 276, 280 
 
 solution of, 139 
 Turkey carpets, to clean, 289 
 Turmeric, 69, 70, 71, 108, 140, 141, 
 151, 183, 191, 225, 271, 272, 274, 
 284, 286 
 Turnfoil, 133 
 Turkey reds, 233 
 Turpentine for scouring, 120 
 
 Umbrellas, green for, 249 
 
 silk for, 72 
 Ungumming raw silk, 36 
 
 Vat for indigo, 61 
 
 to make, for silks, 92 
 Vaunterines, 69, 156 
 Velvet, embossing, 205 
 
 to dye black, 85 
 
 to dye cotton, 256 
 
 to clean and dip, 86 
 Verdigris, 247, 284 
 Vinegar, 266 
 Violet, 115, 159 
 
 drapery, 308 
 
 for feathers, 273, 274 
 Violets, from aniline, 331, 332 
 
 to dye, 102, 103, 109, 115 
 Vitriol, 248 
 
 blue, 247 
 
 oil of, 259 
 
 Walnuts, 254, 257 
 Walnut rinds, 239 
 
 Watered tabaret curtains, how to clean, 
 
 314 
 Water for dye-house, 18 
 Watering moreens, 201, 300 
 
 silks, 204 
 Waterloo blue, 53 
 
 in the orchil copper, 54 
 
 to dye, 131 
 Weld, 72, 107, 108, 181, 221, 250, 274 
 
 and alum, to dye with, 71 
 
 to dye with, 139, 140 
 White, blue, 41 
 
 drapery, 309 
 
 flesh, 42 
 
 French, 42 
 
 milk, 42 
 
 pink, 42 
 
 pure, 41 
 
 shades of, 41 
 
 to make cotton, 227 
 Woad, 133 
 
 vat, 132, 134 
 Wold, 181 
 Wool, 117 
 
 dyed with aniline, 326 
 
 dyeing of, 24 
 Woollen goods, how made ready for 
 
 dyeing, 123 
 Woollens, jet to make for, 91 
 
 paste for, 161 
 Worsted, cleaning, 303 
 
 curtains, to clean, 306 
 
 damask, to dye, 127, 128 
 
 stockings, to dye, 260 
 
 to clean, 126 
 
 Yellow, 107, 178, 179, 181 
 Yellow, aniline, 335 
 
 drapery, 308 
 
 for cotton, 221, 222, 223^ 
 
 for feathers, 274 
 
 prussiate, 52 
 Young fustic, 141 
 
ANDREYKOVICZ & DUNK, 
 
 156 
 
 North Third Street, Philada., 
 
 Are Agents for the Sale of the 
 
 CELEBRATED 
 
 SWISS ANILINE COLORS. 
 
 THEY ALSO MANUFACTURE AND IMPORT 
 
 CHEMICALS USED FOR DYEING. 
 
 Having devoted their lives to the study of 
 
 CHEMISTRY APPLIED TO DYEING, 
 
 The SUPPLYING of DTEKS with EVEKY DRUG THEY MAY WANT 
 IS THEIR SPECIALITY. 
 
 THEIR BRANCH IN CHICAGO IS 
 
 213 E. Madison Street, 
 
 i 
 
RALSTON & BIDDLE, 
 
 IMPORTERS OF 
 
 INDIGO AND INDIA GOODS, 
 
 104 CHESTNUT STREET, 
 
 PM)0ILA@>I(kPI)O!)A, 
 
 Dealers in Aniline Colors, First Quality 
 
 Chemicals, Dyewoods and Dyestuffs 
 
 of every description. 
 
 TWADDEL'S HYDEOMETEES, 
 
 From, JVo. 1 to Wo. 6 constantly for sale. 
 PEICE, EACH $1.00. 
 
 Assorted sizes and patterns, from $1 to $3 each. 
 
 Mathematical, Optical & Philosophical Instruments 
 
 In Every Variety for Sale by 
 
 JAMES W. QUEEN & CO., 
 
 924 CHZESTnNTTJT ST., 
 Philadelphia, 
 
 U^p Illustrated Catalogues by Mail gratis. 
 
 9, 
 
CATALOCxUE 
 
 OF 
 
 PRACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 HENRY CAREY BAIRD, 
 
 INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHER, 
 
 3STo- 406 V^^.X.KTTJT STREET, 
 
 PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 Any of the Books comprised in this Catalogue will be sent by mail, 
 free of postage, at the publication price. 
 
 This Catalogue will be sent, free of postage, to any one who will 
 furnish the publisher with his address. 
 
 A RMENGAUD, AMOUROUX, AND JOHNSON.— THE PEACTICAL 
 
 ^ DRAUGHTSMAN'S BOOK OF INDUSTRIAL DESIGN, AND 
 
 MACHINIST'S AND ENGINEER'S DRAWING COMPANION: 
 
 Forming a complete course of Mechanical Engineering and 
 Architectural Drawing. From the French of M. Armengaud 
 the elder, Prof, of Design in the Conservatoire of Arts and 
 Industry, Paris, and MM. Armengaud the younger and Amou- 
 roux, Civil Engineers. Rewritten and arranged, with addi- 
 tional matter and plates, selections from and examples of the 
 most useful and generally employed mechanism of the day. 
 By William Johnson, Assoc. Inst. C. E., Editor of "The 
 Practical Mechanic's Journal." Illustrated by 50 folio steel 
 plates and 50 wood-cuts. A new edition, 4 to. . $10 00 
 
 A RROWSMITH.— PAPER-HANGER'S COMPANION : 
 
 A Treatise in which the Practical Operations of the Trade are 
 Systematically laid down: with Copious Directions Prepara- 
 tory to Papering ; Preventives against the Effect of Damp on 
 Walls; the Various Cements and Pastes adapted to the Seve- 
 ral Purposes of the Trade; Observations and Directions for 
 the Panelling and Ornamenting of Rooms, &c. By James 
 Arrowsmith, Author of "Analysis of Drapery," &c. 12mo., 
 cloth . .... . ^ . . . SI 25 
 
HENRY CAREY BATED' S CATALOGUE. 
 
 "DAIRD.— THE AMERICAN COTTON SPINNER, AND MANA- 
 D GEE'S AND CARDER'S GUIDE : 
 
 A Practical Treatise on Cotton Spinning; giving the Dimen- 
 sions and Speed of Machinery, Draught and Twist Calcula- 
 tions, etc. ; with notices of recent Improvements : together 
 with Rules and Examples for making changes in the sizes and 
 numbers of Roving and Yarn. Compiled from the papers of 
 the late Robert H. Baibd. 12mo. . . . $1 50 
 
 -pAKEE.— LONG-SPAN RAILWAY BRIDGES : 
 
 Comprising Investigations of the Comparative Theoretical and 
 Practical Advantages of the various Adopted or Proposed Type 
 Systems of Construction; with numerous Formulae and Ta- 
 bles. By B. Baker. 12mo $2 00 
 
 ■DAKEWELL.— A MANUAL OF ELECTRICITY— PRACTICAL AND 
 D THEORETICAL : 
 
 By F. C. Bakewell, Inventor of the Copying Telegraph. Se- 
 cond Edition. Revised and enlarged. Illustrated by nume- 
 rous engravings. 12mo. Cloth . . . . $2 00 
 
 ■pEANS— A TREATISE ON RAILROAD CURVES AND THE L0- 
 D CATION OF RAILROADS : 
 
 By E. W. Beans, C. E. 12mo. (In press.) 
 
 ■pLENEARN.— PRACTICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF WORKS EXE- 
 D CUTED IN ARCHITECTURE, CIVIL AND MECHANICAL 
 ENGINEERING, AND IN ROAD MAKING AND SEWER- 
 ING: 
 
 To which are added a series of practically useful Agreements 
 and Reports. By John Blenkarn. Illustrated by fifteen 
 large folding plates. 8vo. $9 00 
 
 •pLINN.— A PRACTICAL WORKSHOP COMPANION FOR TIN, 
 -° SHEET-IRON, AND COPPER-PLATE WORKERS : 
 
 Containing Rules for Describing various kinds of Patterns 
 used by Tin, Sheet-iron, and Copper-plate Workers ; Practical 
 Geometry; Mensuration of Surfaces and Solids; Tables of the 
 Weight of Metals, Lead Pipe, etc. ; Tables of Areas and Cir- 
 cumferences of Circles ; Japans, Varnishes, Lackers, Cements, 
 Compositions, etc. etc. By Leboy J. Blinn, Master Me- 
 chanic. With over One Hundred Illustrations. 12mo. $2 50 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 3 
 
 TjOOTK — MARBLE WORKER'S MANUAL : 
 
 Containing Practical Information respecting Marbles in gene- 
 ral, their Cutting, Working, and Polishing ; Veneering of 
 Marble ; Mosaics ; Composition and Use of Artificial Marble, 
 Stuccos, Cements, Receipts, Secrets, etc. etc. Translated 
 from the French by M. L. Booth. With an Appendix con- 
 cerning American Marbles. 12mo., cloth . . ' $1 50 
 
 TJOOTH AND MORFIT.— THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHEMISTRY, 
 ■° PRACTICAL AND THEORETICAL : 
 
 Embracing its application to the Arts, Metallurgy, Mineralogy, 
 Geology, Medicine, and Pharmacy. By James C. Booth, 
 Melter and Refiner in the United States Mint, Professor of 
 Applied Chemistry in the Franklin Institute, etc., assisted by 
 Campbell Morfit, author of "Chemical Manipulations," etc. 
 Seventh edition. Complete in one volume, royal 8vo., 978 
 pages, with numerous wood-cuts and other illustrations. $5 00 
 
 ■pOWDITCH.— ANALYSIS, TECHNICAL VALUATION, PURIFI- 
 
 D CATION, AND USE OF COAL GAS : 
 
 By Rev. W. R. Bowditch. Illustrated with wood engrav- 
 ings. 8vo $6 50 
 
 TjOX— PRACTICAL HYDRAULICS : 
 
 A Series of Rules and Tables for the use of Engineers, etc. 
 By Thomas Box. 12mo. ... . . . $2 00 
 
 -nUCKMASTER.— THE ELEMENTS OF MECHANICAL PHYSICS : 
 
 By J. C. Buckmaster, late Student in the Government School 
 of Mines ; Certified Teacher of Science by the Department of 
 Science and Art ; Examiner in Chemistry and Physics in the 
 RoyalCollege of Preceptors; and late Lecturer in Chemistry 
 and Physics of the Royal Polytechnic Institute. Illustrated 
 with numerous engravings. In one vol. 12mo. . $2 00 
 
 DULLOCK.— THE AMERICAN COTTAGE BUILDER : 
 
 A Series of Designs, Plans, and Specifications, from $200 to 
 to $20,000 for Homes for the People ; together with Warm- 
 ing, Ventilation, Drainage, Painting, and Landscape Garden- 
 ing. By John Bullock, Architect, Civil Engineer, Mechanic 
 cian, and Editor of "The Rudiments of Architecture and 
 Building," etc. Illustrated by 75 engravings. In one vol. 
 8vo $3 50 
 
HENRY CARET BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 ■DTJLLOCZ. — THE RUDIMENTS OF ARCHITECTURE AND 
 
 n BUILDING : 
 
 For the use of Architects, Builders, Draughtsmen, Machin- 
 ists, Engineers, and Mechanics. Edited by John Bullock, 
 author of "The American Cottage Builder." Illustrated by 
 250 engravings. In one volume 8vo. . . . $3 50 
 
 "pURGH.— PRACTICAL ILLUSTRATIONS OF LAND AND MA- 
 
 ■° RINE ENGINES : 
 
 Showing in detail the Modern Improvements of High and Low 
 Pressure, Surface Condensation, and Super-heating, together 
 with Land and Marine Boilers. By N. P. BuRGn, Engineer. 
 Illustrated by twenty plates, double elephant folio, with text. 
 
 $21 00 
 
 TDURGH.— PRACTICAL RULES FOR THE PROPORTIONS OF 
 
 D MODERN ENGINES AND BOILERS FOR LAND AND MA- 
 RINE PURPOSES. 
 By N. P. Burgh, Engineer. 12mo. . . . $2 00 
 
 -DURGH.— THE SLIDE-VALVE PRACTICALLY CONSIDERED : 
 By N. P. Burgh, author of " A Treatise on Sugar Machinery," 
 "Practical Illustrations of Land and Marine Engines," "A 
 Pocket-Book of Practical Rules for Designing Land and Ma- 
 rine Engines, Boilers," etc. etc. etc. Completely illustrated. 
 12mo " .' $2 00 
 
 -pYRN.— THE COMPLETE PRACTICAL BREWER : 
 
 Or, Plain, Accurate, and Thorough Instructions in the Art of 
 Brewing Beer, Ale, Porter, including the Process of making 
 Bavarian Beer, all the Small Beers, such as Root-beer, Ginger- 
 pop, Sarsaparilla-beer, Mead, Spruce beer, etc. etc. Adapted 
 to the use of Public Brewers and Private Families. By M. La 
 Fayette Byrn, M. D. With illustrations. 12mo. $1 25 
 
 YRN.— THE COMPLETE PRACTICAL DISTILLER : 
 
 Comprising the most perfect and exact Theoretical and Prac- 
 tical Description of the Art of Distillation and Rectification ; 
 including all of the most recent improvements in distilling 
 apparatus ; instructions for preparing spirits from the nume- 
 rous vegetables, fruits, etc. ; directions for the distillation and 
 preparation of all kinds of brandies and other spirits, spiritu- 
 ous and other compounds, etc. etc. ; all of which is so simpli- 
 fied that it is adapted not only to the use of extensive distil- 
 lers, but for every farmer, or others who may wish to engage 
 in the art of distilling By M. La Fayette Byrn, M. D. 
 With numerous engravings. In one volume, 12mo. $1 50 
 
 B 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE 
 
 "DYRNE.— POCKET BOOK FOE RAILROAD AND CIVIL ENGI- 
 
 "° NEERS : 
 
 Containing New, Exact, and Concise Methods for Laying out 
 Railroad Curves, Switches, Frog Angles and Crossings; the 
 Staking out of work; Levelling; the Calculation of Cut- 
 tings ; Embankments ; Earth-work, etc. By Oliver Byrne. 
 Illustrated, 18mo $1 25 
 
 TDYRNE.— THE HANDBOOK FOR THE ARTISAN, MECHANIC, 
 ■° AND ENGINEER : 
 
 By Oliver Byrne. Illustrated by 11 large plates and 185 
 Wood Engravings. 8vo. . . . . . . $5 00 
 
 "DYRNE.— THE ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS OF PRACTICAL ME- 
 D CHANICS : 
 
 For Engineering Students, based on the Principle of Work. 
 By Oliver Byrne. Illustrated by Numerous Wood Engrav- 
 ings, 12mo. . . . . . . . . $3 63 
 
 "DYRNE.— THE PRACTICAL METAL-WORKER'S ASSISTANT: 
 
 Comprising Metallurgic Chemistry ; the Arts of Working all 
 Metals and Alloys ; Forging of Iron and Steel ; Hardening and 
 Tempering ; Melting and Mixing ; Casting and Founding ; 
 Works in Sheet Metal ; the Processes Dependent on the 
 Ductility of the Metals ; Soldering ; and the most Improved 
 Processes and Tools employed by Metal-Workers. With the 
 Application of the Art of Electro-Metallurgy to Manufactu- 
 ring Processes ; collected from Original Sources, and from the 
 Works of Holtzapffel, Bergeron, Leupold, Plunder, Napier, and 
 others. By Oliver Byrne. A New, Revised, and improved 
 Edition, with Additions by John Scoffern, M. B , William Clay, 
 Wm. Fairbairn, F..R. S., and James Napier. With Five Hun- 
 dred and Ninety-two Engravings ; Illustrating every Branch 
 of the Subject. In one volume, 8vo. 652 pages . $7 00 
 
 "DYRNE.— THE PRACTICAL CALCULATOR : 
 
 For the Engineer, Mechanic, Manufacturer of Engine Work, 
 Naval Architect, Miner, and Millwright. By Oliver Byrne. 
 1 volume, 8vo., nearly 600 pages . . . . $4 50 
 
 pABINET MAKER'S ALBUM OF FURNITURE: 
 
 ■ Comprising a Collection of Designs for the Newest and Most 
 Elegant Styles of Furniture. Illustrated by Forty eight Large 
 and Beautifully Engraved Plates. In one volume, oblong 
 
 $5 00 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 pALVERT.— LECTURES ON COAL-TAR COLORS, AND ON EE- 
 U CENT IMPROVEMENTS AND PROGRESS IN DYEING AND 
 CALICO PRINTING: 
 
 Embodying Copious Notes taken at the last London Interna- 
 tional Exhibition, and Illustrated with Numerous Patterns of 
 Aniline and other Colors. By F. Grace Calvert, F. R. S., 
 F. C. S., Professor of Chemistry at the Royal Institution, Man- 
 chester, Corresponding Member of the Royal Academies of 
 Turin and Rouen ; of the Pharmaceutical Society of Paris ; 
 Societe Industrielle de Mulhouse, etc. In one volume,. 8vo., 
 cloth $1 50 
 
 HAMPIN.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON MECHANICAL EN- 
 U GINEERING: 
 
 Comprising Metallurgy, Moulding, Casting, Forging, Tools, 
 Workshop Machinery, Mechanical Manipulation, Manufacture 
 of Steam-engines, etc. etc. With an Appendix on the Ana- 
 lysis of Iron and Iron Ores. By Francis Campin, C. E. To 
 which are added, Observations on the Construction of Steam 
 Boilers, and Remarks upon Furnaces used for Smoke Preven- 
 tion ; with a Chapter on Explosions. By R. Armstrong, C. E., 
 and John Bourne. Rules for Calculating the Change Wheels 
 for Screws on a Turning Lathe, and for a Wheel-cutting 
 Machine. By J. La Nicca. Management of Steel, including 
 Forging, Hardening, Tempering, Annealing, Shrinking, and 
 Expansion. And the Case-hardening of Iron. By G-. Ede. 
 8vo. Illustrated with 29 plates and 100 wood engravings. 
 
 $6 00 
 
 pAMPIN.— THE PRACTICE OF HAND-TURNING IN WOOD, 
 ^ IVORY, SHELL, ETC. : 
 
 With Instructions for Turning such works in Metal as may be 
 required in the Practice of Turning Wood, Ivory, etc. Also, 
 an Appendix on Ornamental Turning. By Francis Campin ; 
 with Numerous Illustrations, 12mo., cloth . $3 00 
 
 pAPRON DE DOLE.— DUSSAUCE.— BLUES AND CARMINES OF 
 ^ INDIGO. 
 
 A Practical Treatise on the Fabrication of every Commercial 
 Product derived from Indigo. By Felicien Capron de Dole. 
 Translated, with important additions, by Professor H. Dus- 
 sauce. 12mo. $2 50 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 nAREY.— THE WORKS OF HENRY C. CAREY: 
 
 CONTRACTION OR EXPANSION? REPUDIATION OR RE- 
 SUMPTION? Letters to Hon. Hugh McCulloch. 8vo. 38 
 
 FINANCIAL CRISES, their Causes and Effects. 8vo. paper 
 
 25 
 
 HARMONY OF INTERESTS; Agricultural, Manufacturing, 
 
 and Commercial. 8vo., paper $1 00 
 
 Do. do. cloth . . . $1 50 
 
 LETTERS TO THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES. 
 Paper 75 
 
 MANUAL OF SOCIAL SCIENCE. Condensed from Carey's 
 "Principles of Social Science." By Kate McKean. 1 vol. 
 12mo $2 25 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS WORKS: comprising "Harmony of Inter- 
 ests," "Money," "Letters to the President," "French and 
 American Tariffs," "Financial Crises," "The Way to Outdo 
 England without Fighting Her," "Resources of the Union," 
 "The Public Debt," "Contraction or Expansion," "Review 
 of the Decade 1857 — 'G7," "Reconstruction," etc. etc. 1 vol. 
 8vo., cloth $4 50 
 
 MONEY: A LECTURE before the N. Y. Geographical and Sta- 
 tistical Society. 8vo., paper ..... 25 
 
 PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE. 8vo. . . . $2 50 
 PRINCIPLES OF SOCIAL SCIENCE. 3 volumes 8vo., cloth 
 
 $10 00 
 REVIEW OF THE DECADE 1857— '67. 8vo., paper 38 
 
 RECONSTRUCTION: INDUSTRIAL, FINANCIAL, AND PO- 
 LITICAL. Letters to the Hon. Henry Wilson, U. S. S. 8vo. 
 paper . . 38 
 
 ~THE PUBLIC DEBT, LOCAL AND NATIONAL. How to 
 provide for its discharge while lessening the burden of Taxa- 
 tion. Letter to David A. Wells, Esq., U. S. Revenue Commis- 
 sion. 8vo., paper ....... 25 
 
 THE RESOURCES OF THE UNION. A Lecture read, Dec. 
 1865, before the American Geographical aod Statistical So- 
 ciety, N. Y., and before the American Association for the Ad- 
 vancement of Social Science, Boston ... 25 
 
 THE SLAVE TRADE, DOMESTIC AND FOREIGN; Why it 
 Exists, and How it may be Extinguished. 12mo., cloth $1 50 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 THE WAY TO OUTDO ENGLAND WITHOUT FIGHTING 
 HER. Letters to the Hon. Schuyler Colfax, Speaker of the 
 House of Representatives United States, on "The Paper Ques- 
 tion," "The Farmer's Question," "The Iron Question," "The 
 Railroad Question," and "The Currency Question." 8vo., 
 paper ......... 75 
 
 pHEVALIER.— THE PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDENT. 
 
 A Complete Treatise on the Theory and Practice of Photo- 
 graphy. Translated from the French of A. Chevalier. Il- 
 lustrated by numerous engravings. (In press.) 
 
 pLOUGH.— THE CONTRACTOR'S MANUAL AND BUILDER'S 
 U PRICE-BOOK : 
 
 Designed to elucidate the method of ascertaining, correctly, 
 the value and Quantity of every description of Work and Ma- 
 terials used in the Art of Building, from their Prime Cost in 
 any part of the United States, collected from extensive expe- 
 rience and observation in Building and Designing; to which 
 are added a large variety of Tables, Memoranda, etc., indis- 
 pensable to all engaged or concerned in erecting buildings of 
 any kind. By A. B. Clough, Architect, 24mo., cloth 75 
 
 pOLBURN.— THE GAS-WORKS OF LONDON : 
 
 Comprising a sketch of the Gas-works of the city, Process of 
 Manufacture, Quantity Produced, Cost, Profit, etc. By Zerah 
 Colburn. 8vo., cloth 75 
 
 pOLBURN.— THE LOCOMOTIVE ENGINE: 
 
 Including a Description of its Structure, Rules for Estimat- 
 ing its Capabilities, and Practical Observations on its Construc- 
 tion and Management. By Zerah Colburn. Illustrated. A 
 new edition. 12mo. $1 25 
 
 pOLBURN AND MAW.— THE WATER- WORKS OF LONDON: 
 
 Together with a Series of Articles on various other Water- 
 works. By Zerah Colburn and W. Maw. Reprinted from 
 "Engineering." In one volume, 8vo. . . $4 00 
 
 TjAGUERREOTYPIST AND PHOTOGRAPHER'S COMPANION: 
 . 12mo., cloth $1 25 
 
 TjAVIS.— A TREATISE ON HARNESS, SADDLES, AND BRI- 
 V DLES : 
 
 Their History and Manufacture from the Earliest Times down 
 to the Present Period. By A. Davis, Practical Saddler and 
 Harness Maker. (In press.) 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 TjESSOYE.— STEEL, ITS MANUFACTURE, PROPERTIES, AND 
 
 ^ USE. 
 
 By J. B. J. Dessoye, Manufacturer of Steel ; with an Intro- 
 duction and Notes by Ed. Graten, Engineer of Mines. 
 Translated from the French. In one volume, 12mo. (In press.) 
 
 ■niRCKS.— PERPETUAL MOTION : 
 
 Or Search for Self-Motive Power during the 17th, 18th, and 
 19th centuries. Illustrated from various authentic sources in 
 Papers, Essays, Letters, Paragraphs, and numerous Patent 
 Specifications, with an Introductory Essay by Henry Dircks, 
 C. E. Illustrated by numerous engravings of machines. 
 12mo., cloth $3 50 
 
 TJIXON.— THE PRACTICAL MILLWRIGHT'S AND ENGINEER'S 
 U GUIDE : 
 
 Or Tables for Finding the Diameter and Power of Cogwheels ; 
 Diameter, Weight, and Power of Shafts ; Diameter and Strength 
 of Bolts, etc. etc. By Thojias Dixon. 12mo., cloth. $1 50 
 
 ■nUNCAN.— PRACTICAL SURVEYOR'S GUIDE: 
 
 Containing the necessary information to make any person, of 
 common capacity, a finished land surveyor without the aid of 
 a teacher. By Andrew Duncan. Illustrated. 12mo., cloth. 
 
 $1 25 
 TjUSSAUCE.— A NEW AND COMPLETE TREATISE ON THE 
 U ARTS OF TANNING, CURRYING, AND LEATHER DRESS- 
 ING : 
 
 Comprising all the Discoveries and Improvements made in 
 France, Great Britain, and the United States. Edited from 
 Notes and Documents of Messrs. Sallerou, Grouvelle, Duval, 
 Dessables, Labarraque, Payen, Rene*, De Fontenelle, Mala- 
 peyre, etc. etc. By Prof. H. Dussauce, Chemist. Illustrated 
 by 212 wood engravings. 8vo $10 00 
 
 TjUSSAUCE.— A GENERAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE 
 ^ OF EVERY DESCRIPTION OF SOAP : 
 
 Comprising the Chemistry of the Art, with Remarks on Alka- 
 lies, Saponifiable Fatty Bodies, the apparatus necessary in a 
 Soap Factory, Practical Instructions on the manufacture of 
 the various kinds of Soap, the assay of Soaps, etc. etc. Edited 
 from notes of Larme, Fontenelle, Malapeyre, Dufour, and 
 others, with large and important additions by Professor H. 
 Dussauce, Chemist. Illustrated. In one volume, 8vo. (In 
 press.) 
 
10 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 TJUSSAUCE.— A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR THE PERFUMER: 
 
 Being a New Treatise on Perfumery the most favorable to the 
 Beauty without being injurious to the Health, comprising a 
 Description of the substances used in Perfumery, the Form- 
 ulae of more than one thousand Preparations, such as Cosme- 
 tics, Perfumed Oils, Tooth Powders, Waters, Extracts, Tinc- 
 tures, Infusions, Yinaigres, Essential Oils, Pastels, Creams, 
 Soaps, and many new Hygienic Products not hitherto described. 
 Edited from Notes and Documents of Messrs. Debay, Lunel, 
 etc. With additions by Professor H. Dussauce, Chemist. (In 
 press, shortly to be issued.) 
 
 TYUSSAUCE.— PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE FABRICATION 
 V OF MATCHES, GUN COTTON, AND FULMINATING POW- 
 DERS. 
 By Professor H. Dussauce. 12mo. . . . $3 00 
 
 -nUSSAUCE.— TREATISE ON THE COLORING MATTERS DE- 
 U RIVED FROM COAL TAR : 
 
 Their Practical Application in Dyeing Cotton, Wool, and Silk; 
 the Principles of the Art of Dyeing and of the Distillation of 
 Coal Tar, with a Description of the most Important New Dyes 
 now in use. By Prof. H. Dussauce. 12mo. . $3 00 
 
 TYYER AND COLOR-MAKER'S COMPANION : 
 
 Containing upwards of two hundred Receipts for making Co- 
 lors, on the most approved principles, for all the various styles 
 and fabrics now in existence ; with the Scouring Process, and 
 plain Directions for Preparing, Washing-off, and Finishing the 
 Goods. In one vol. 12mo. . . . . . $1 25 
 
 •DAST0N.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON STREET OR H0R3E- 
 
 n POWER RAILWAYS : 
 
 Their Location, Construction, and Management ; with General 
 Plans and Rules for their Organization and Operation ; toge- 
 ther with Examinations as to their Comparative Advantages 
 over the Omnibus System, and Inquiries as to their Value for 
 Investment ; including Copies of Municipal Ordinances relat- 
 ing thereto. By Alexander Easton, C. E. Illustrated by 23 
 plates, 8vo., cloth $2 00 
 
 ■PRNL— COAL OIL AND PETROLEUM : 
 
 Their Origin, History, Geology, and Chemistry; with a view of 
 their importance in their bearing on National Industry. By 
 Dr. Henri Erni, Chief Chemist, Department of Agriculture. 
 12mo. . $2 50 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 11 
 
 TONI.— THE THEORETICAL AND PRACTICAL CHEMISTRY OF 
 
 "^ FERMENTATION : 
 
 Comprising the Chemistry of Wine, Beer, Distilling of Liquors; 
 with, the Practical Methods of their Chemical Examination, 
 Preservation, and Improvement — such as Gallizing of Wines. 
 With an Appendix, containing well-tested Practical Rules and 
 Receipts for the manufacture, etc., of all kinds of Alcoholic 
 Liquors. By Henry Erni, Chief Chemist, Department of 
 Agriculture. (In press.) 
 
 "PAIRBAIRN.— THE PRINCIPLES OF MECHANISM AND MA- 
 
 X CHINERY OF TRANSMISSION : 
 
 Comprising the Principles of Mechanism, Wheels, and Pulleys, 
 Strength and Proportions of Shafts, Couplings of Shafts, and 
 Engaging and Disengaging Gear. By William Fairbairn, 
 Esq., C. E., LL. D., F. R. S., F. G. S., Corresponding Member 
 of the National Institute of France, and of the Royal Academy 
 of Turin ; Chevalier of the Legion of Honor, etc. etc. Beau- 
 tifully illustrated by over 150 wood-cuts. In one volume 12mo. 
 
 $2 50 
 
 pAIRBAIRN.— PRIME-MOVERS : 
 
 Comprising the Accumulation of Water-power ; the Construc- 
 tion of Water-wheels and Turbines ; the Properties of Steam ; 
 the Varieties of Steam-engines and Boilers and Wind-mills. 
 By William Fairbairn, C. E., LL. D., F. R. S., F. G. S. Au- 
 thor of "Principles of Mechanism and the Machinery of Trans- 
 mission." With Numerous Illustrations. In one volume. (In 
 press.) 
 
 "PLAMM.— A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF 
 ■*■ ECONOMICAL HEATING APPLICATIONS FOR SOLID AND 
 GASEOUS FUELS: 
 
 With the Application of Concentrated Heat, and on Waste 
 Heat, for the Use of Engineers, Architects, Stove and Furnace 
 Makers, Manufacturers of Fire Brick, Zinc, Porcelain, Glass, 
 Earthenware, Steel, Chemical Products, Sugar Refiners, Me- 
 tallurgists, and all others employing Heat. By M. Pierre 
 Flamm, Manufacturer. Illustrated. Translated from the 
 French. One volume, 12mo. (In press.) 
 
 rilLBART.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON BANKING: 
 
 By James William Gilbart. To which is added: The Na- 
 tional Bank Act as now (1868) in force. 8vo. $4 50 
 
12 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 HOTHIC ALBUM FOR, CABINET MAKERS: 
 
 Comprising a Collection of Designs for Gothic Furniture. Il- 
 lustrated by twenty-three large and beautifully engraved 
 plates. Oblong $3 00 
 
 HRANT.— BEET-ROOT SUGAR AND CULTIVATION OF THE 
 BEET : 
 By E. B. Grant. 12mo $1 25 
 
 QREGORY — MATHEMATICS FOR PRACTICAL MEN: 
 
 Adapted to the Pursuits of Surveyors, Architects, Mechanics, 
 and Civil Engineers. By Olinthus Gregory. 8vo., plates, 
 cloth . . . ' . . . . . . $3 00 
 
 HRISWOLD — RAILROAD ENGINEER'S POCKET COMPANION. 
 
 Comprising Rules for Calculating Deflection Distances and 
 Angles, Tangential Distances and Angles, and all Necessary 
 Tables for Engineers; also the art of Levelling from Prelimi- 
 nary Survey to the Construction of Railroads, intended Ex- 
 pressly for the Young Engineer, together with Numerous Valu- 
 able Rules and Examples. By W. Griswold. 12mo., tucks. 
 
 $1 25 
 riUETTIER.— METALLIC ALLOYS : 
 
 Being a Practical Guide to their Chemical and Physical Pro- 
 perties, their Preparation, Composition, and Uses. Translated 
 from the French of A. Guettier, Engineer and Director of 
 Founderies, author of " La Fouderie en France," etc. etc. By 
 A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. In one volume, 12mo. 
 (In press, shortly to be published.) 
 
 A Practical Treatise on their Manufacture. By a Practical 
 
 TJATS AND FELTING: 
 
 A Practical Treatis 
 
 Hatter. Illustrated by Drawings of Machinery, &c, 8vo. 
 
 TTAY.— THE INTERIOR DECORATOR : 
 
 The Laws of Harmonious Coloring adapted to Interior Decora- 
 tions : with a Practical Treatise on House-Painting. By D. 
 R. Hay, House-Painter and Decorator. Illustrated by a Dia- 
 gram of the Primary, Secondary, and Tertiary Colors. 12mo. 
 
 $2 25 
 
 TTUGHES.— AMERICAN MILLER AND MILLWRIGHT'S AS- 
 11 SISTANT : 
 
 By Wm. Carter Hughes. A new edition. In one volume, 
 12mo. . . . . . . . . • $ 1 50 
 
 \ 
 
HENRY CARET BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 13 
 
 TJTTNT.— THE PRACTICE OF PHOTOGRAPHY. 
 
 By Robert Hunt, Vice-President of the Photographic Society, 
 London, with numerous illustrations. 12mo., cloth . 75 
 
 JJURST .— A HAND-BOOK FOR ARCHITECTURAL SURVEYORS : 
 
 Comprising Formulas useful in Designing Builder's work, Table 
 of Weights, of the materials used in Building, Memoranda 
 connected with Builders' work, Mensuration, the Practice of 
 Builders' Measurement, Contracts of Labor, Valuation of Pro- 
 perty, Summary of the Practice in Dilapidation, etc. etc. By 
 J. F. Hurst, C. E. 2d edition, pocket-book form, full bound 
 
 $2 50 
 J2RVIS.— RAILWAY PROPERTY : 
 
 A Treatise on the Construction and Management of Railways ; 
 designed to afford useful knowledge, in the popular style, to the 
 holders of this class of property; as well as Railway Mana- 
 gers, Officers, and Agents. By John B. Jervis, late Chief 
 Engineer of the Hudson River Railroad, Croton Aqueduct, &c. 
 One vol. 12mo., cloth $2 00 
 
 JOHNSON.— A REPORT TO THE NAVY DEPARTMENT OF THE 
 
 UNITED STATES ON AMERICAN COALS : 
 
 Applicable to Steam Navigation and to other purposes. By 
 Walter R. Johnson. .With numerous illustrations. 607 pp. 
 8 vo., half morocco . . . ' . . . . $6 00 
 
 JOHNSON— THE COAL TRADE OF BRITISH AMERICA : 
 
 With Researches on the Characters and Practical Values of 
 American and Foreign Coals. By Walter R. Johnson, Civil 
 and Mining Engineer and Chemist. 8vo. . . . $2 00 
 
 JOHNSTON.— INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE ANALYSIS OF SOILS, 
 U LIMESTONES, AND MANURES. 
 
 By J. W. F. Johnston. 12mo 38 
 
 TTEENE— A HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL GAUGING, 
 
 For the Use of Beginners, to which is added A Chapter on Dis- 
 tillation, describing the process in operation at the Custom 
 House for ascertaining the strength of wines. By James B. 
 Keene, of H. M. Customs. 8vo. . ... $1 25 
 
 T7-ENTISH — A TREATISE ON A BOX OF INSTRUMENTS, 
 
 And the Slide Rule ; with the Theory of Trigonometry and Lo- 
 garithms, including Practical Geometry, Surveying, Measur- 
 ing of Timber, Cask and Malt Gauging, Heights, and Distances. 
 By Thomas Kentish. In one volume. 12mo. . $1 25 
 
14 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 TZOBELL.— ERNL— MINES ALOGY SIMPLIFIED : 
 
 A short method of Determining and Classifying Minerals, by 
 means of simple Chemical Experiments in the Wet Way. 
 Translated from the last German Edition of F. Von Kobell, 
 with an Introduction to Blowpipe Analysis and other addi- 
 tions. By Henri Erni, M. D., Chief Chemist, Department of 
 Agriculture, author of " Coal Oil and Petroleum." In one 
 volume, 12mo. . . . . . . . $2 50 
 
 T AFFINEUR.— A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO HYDRAULICS FOR 
 "" TOWN AND COUNTRY; 
 
 Or a Complete Treatise on the Building of Conduits for Water 
 for Cities, Towns, Farms, Country Residences, Workshops, etc. 
 Comprising the means necessary for obtaining at all times 
 abundant supplies of Drinkable Water. Translated from 
 the French of M. Jules Laffineur, C. E. Illustrated. (In 
 press.) 
 
 T AFFINEUR.— A TREATISE ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF WA- 
 Jj TER- WHEELS : 
 
 Containing the various Systems in use with Practical Informa- 
 tion on the Dimensions necessary for Shafts, Journals, Arms, 
 etc., of Water-wheels,, etc. etc. Translated from the French 
 of M. Jules Laffineur, C. E. Illustrated by numerous 
 plates. (In press.) 
 
 T ANDRIN.— A TREATISE ON STEEL : 
 
 Comprising the Theory, Metallurgy, Practical Working, Pro- 
 perties, and Use. Translated from the French of H. C. Lan- 
 drin, Jr., C. E. By A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. 
 Illustrated. 12mo. (In press.) 
 
 T ARKIN.— THE PRACTICAL BRASS AND IRON FOUNDER'S 
 ■" GUIDE : 
 
 A Concise Treatise on Brass Founding, Moulding, the Metals 
 and their Alloys, etc. ; to which are added Recent Improve- 
 ments in the Manufacture of Iron, Steel by the Bessemer Pro- 
 cess, etc. etc. By James Larkin, late Conductor of the Brass 
 Foundry Department in Reany, Neafie & Co.'s Penn Works, 
 Philadelphia. Fifth edition, revised, with Extensive addi- 
 tions. In one volume, 12mo $2 25 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD ; S CATALOGUE. 15 
 
 T EAVITT.— FACTS ABOUT PEAT AS AN ARTICLE OF FUEL : 
 
 "With Remarks upon its Origin and Composition, the Localities 
 an which it is found, the Methods of Preparation and Manu- 
 facture, and the various Uses to which it is applicable; toge- 
 ther with many other matters of Practical and Scientific Inte- 
 rest. To which is added a chapter on the Utilization of Coal 
 Dust with Peat for the Production of an Excellent Fuel at 
 Moderate Cost, especially adapted for Steam Service. By H. 
 T. Leavitt. Third edition. 12mo. . . . $1 75 
 
 T ERCUX.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON WOOLS AND WOR- 
 
 5 i-^I/a : 
 
 Translated from the French of Charles Leroux, Mechanical 
 Engineer, and Superintendent of a Spinning Mill. Illustrated 
 by 12 large plates and 31 engravings. In one volume 8vo. 
 (In press, shortly to be published.) 
 
 ESLIE (MISS) .—COMPLETE COOKERY: 
 
 Directions for Cookery in its Various Branches. By Miss 
 Leslie. 58th thousand. Thoroughly revised, with the addi- 
 tion of New Receipts. In 1 vol. 12mo., cloth . . $1 25 
 
 ESLIE (MISS). LADIES' HOUSE BOOK: 
 
 a Manual of Domestic Economy. 20th revised edition. 12mo., 
 cloth $1 25 
 
 L 
 
 L 
 
 T ESLIE (MISS).— TWO HUNDRED RECEIPTS IN FRENCH 
 Jj COOKERY. 
 
 12mo. 50 
 
 T LEBER.— ASS AYER'S GUIDE: 
 
 Or, Practical Directions to Assayers, Miners, and Smelters, for 
 the Tests and Assays, by Heat and by Wet Processes, for the 
 Ores of all the principal Metals, of Gold and Silver Coins and 
 Alloys, and of Coal, etc. By Oscar M. Lleber. 12mo., cloth 
 
 $1 25 
 
 T OVE.— THE ART OF DYEING, CLEANING, SCOURING, AND 
 
 Jj FINISHING : 
 
 On the most approved English and French methods ; being 
 Practical Instructions in Dyeing Silks, "Woollens, and Cottons, 
 Feathers, Chips, Straw, etc.; Scouring and Cleaning Bed and 
 "Window Curtains, Carpets, Rugs, etc.; French and English 
 Cleaning, any Color or Fabric of Silk, Satin, or Damask. By 
 Thomas Love, a Working Dyer and Scourer. In 1 vol. 12mo. 
 
 $3 00 
 
18 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 -MTSTROM. — ON TECHNOLOGICAL EDUCATION AND THE 
 iN CONSTRUCTION OF SHIPS AND SCREW PROPELLERS : 
 
 For Naval and Marine Engineers. By John W. Nystrom, late 
 Acting Chief Engineer U. S. N. Second edition, revised with 
 additional matter. Illustrated by seven engravings. 12mo. 
 
 $2 50 
 
 (TNEILL.— CHEMISTRY OF CALICO PRINTING, DYEING, AND 
 
 U BLEACHING : 
 
 Including Silken, Woollen, and Mixed Goods ; Practical and 
 Theoretical. By Charles O'Neill. (In press.) 
 
 Q'NEILL — A DICTIONARY OF CALICO PRINTING AND DYE- 
 U ING: 
 
 Containing a Brief Account of all the Substances and Processes 
 in Use in the Arts of Printing and Dyeing Textile Fabrics; with 
 Practical Receipts and Scientific Information. By Charles 
 O'Neill, Analytical Chemist, Fellow of the Chemical Society 
 of London, etc. etc. Author of " Chemistry of Calico Print- 
 ing and Dyeing." 8vo. (In press.) 
 
 QVERMAN— OSBORN.— THE MANUFACTURE OF IRON IN ALL 
 U ITS BRANCHES : 
 
 Including a Practical Description of the various Fuels and 
 their Values, the Nature, Determination and Preparation of 
 the Ore, the Erection and Management of Blast and other Fur- 
 naces, the characteristic results of Working by Charcoal, 
 Coke, or Anthracite, the Conversion of the Crude into the va- 
 rious kinds of Wrought Iron, and the Methods adapted to this 
 end. Also, a Description of Forge Hammers, Rolling Mills, 
 Blast Engines, &c. &c. To which is added an Essay on the 
 Manufacture of Steel. By Frederick Overman, Mining En- 
 gineer. The whole thoroughly revised and enlarged, adapted 
 to the latest Improvements and Discoveries, and the particular 
 type of American Methods of Manufacture. With various 
 new engravings illustrating the whole subject. By H. S. Os- 
 born, LL. D. Professor of Mining and Metallurgy in Lafay- 
 ette College. In one volume, 8vo. (In press.) . $10 00 
 
 pAINTER, GILDER, AND VARNISHER'S COMPANION : 
 
 Containing Rules and Regulations in everything relating to 
 the Arts of Painting, Gilding, Varnishing, and Glass Staining, 
 with numerous useful and valuable Receipts; Tests for the 
 Detection of Adulterations in Oils and Colors, and a statement 
 of the Diseases and Accidents to which Painters, Gilders, and 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 19 
 
 Yarnishers are particularly liable, -with the simplest methods 
 of Prevention and Remedy. With Directions for Graining. 
 Marbling, Sign Writing, and Gilding on Glass. To which are 
 added Complete Instructions for Coach Painting and Var- 
 nishing. 12mo., cloth f . ... $1 50 
 
 piLLETT— THE MILLER'S, MILLWRIGHT'S, AND ENGI- 
 r NEER'S GUIDE. 
 
 By Henry Pallett. Illustrated. In one vol. 12mo. $3 00 
 
 pESKINS.— GAS AND VENTILATION. 
 
 Practical Treatise on Gas and Ventilation. With Special Re- 
 lation to Illuminating, Heating, and Cooking by Gas. Includ- 
 ing Scientific Helps to Engineer-students and others. With 
 illustrated Diagrams. By E. E. Perkins. 12mo., cloth $1 25 
 
 BERKINS AND STOWE.— A NEW GUIDE TO THE SHEET- 
 r IRON AND BOILER PLATE ROLLER : 
 
 Containing a Series of Tables showing the Weight of Slabs and 
 Piles to Produce Boiler Plates, and of the Weight of Piles and 
 the Sizes of Bars to produce Sheet-iron; the Thickness of the 
 Bar Gauge in Decimals ; the Weight per foot, and the Thick- 
 ness on the Bar or Wire Gauge of the fractional parts of an 
 inch; the Weight per sheet, and the Thickness on the Wire 
 Gauge of Sheet- iron of various dimensions to weigh 112 lbs. 
 per bundle ; and the conversion of Short Weight into Long 
 Weight, and Long Weight into Short. Estimated and collected 
 by G. H. Perkins and J. G. Stowe . . . . $2 50 
 
 PHILLIPS AND DARLINGTON— RECORDS OF MINING AND 
 r METALLURGY : 
 
 Or Facts and Memoranda for the use of the Mine Agent and 
 Smelter. By J. Arthur Phillips, Mining Engineer, Graduate 
 of the Imperial School of Mines, France, etc., and John Dar- 
 lington. Illustrated by numerous engravings. In one vol- 
 ume, 12mo. $2 00 
 
 pEADAL, MALEPEYRE, AND DUSSAUCE. — A COMPLETE 
 ■*■ TREATISE ON PERFUMERY : 
 
 Containing notices of the Raw Material used in the Art, and the 
 Best Formulae. According to the most approved Methods fol- 
 lowed in France, England, and the United States. By M. 
 P. Pradal, Perfumer Chemist, and M. F. Malepeyre. Trans- 
 lated from the French, with extensive additions, by Professor 
 H. Dussauce. 8vo $10 00 
 
20 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 pSOTEAUX.— PRACTICAX GUIDE FOR THE MANUFACTURE 
 r OF PAPER AND BOARDS. 
 
 By A. Proteaux, Civil Engineer, and Graduate of the School 
 of Arts and Manufactures, Director of Thiers's Paper Mill, 
 'Puy-de-Dome. With additions, by L. S. Le Normand. 
 Translated from the French, with Notes, by Horatio Paine, 
 A. B., M. D. To which is added a Chapter on the Manufac- 
 ture of Paper from Wood in the United States, by Henry T. 
 Brown, of the "American Artisan." Illustrated by six plates, 
 containing Drawings of Raw Materials, Machinery, Plans of 
 Paper-Mills, etc. etc. 8vo $5 00 
 
 "DEGNAULT.— ELEMENIS OF CHEMISTRY. 
 
 By M. V. Regnatjlt. Translated from the French by T. 
 Forrest Betton, M.D., and edited, with notes, by James C. 
 Booth, Melter and Refiner U. S. Mint, and Wm. L. Faber, 
 Metallurgist and Mining Engineer. Illustrated by nearly 700 
 wood engravings. Comprising nearly 1500 pages. In two 
 volumes, 8vo., cloth ...... $10 00 
 
 SELLERS.— THE COLOR MIXER : 
 
 Containing nearly Four Hundred Receipts for Colors, Pastes, 
 Acids, Pulps, Blue Vats, Liquors, etc. etc., for Cotton and 
 Woollen Goods: including the celebrated Barrow Delaine Co- 
 lors. By John Sellers, an experienced Practical Workman. 
 In one volume, 12mo. $2 50 
 
 qHUNK— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON RAILWAY CURVES 
 ^ -AND LOCATION, FOR YOUNG ENGINEERS. 
 
 By Wm. F. Shunk, Civil Engineer. 12mo. . . $1 50 
 
 OMEATON— BUILDER'S POCKET COMPANION: 
 
 Containing the Elements of Building, Surveying, and Archi- 
 tecture ; with Practical Rules and Instructions connected with 
 the subject. By A. C. Smeaton, Civil Engineer, etc. In 
 one volume, 12mo $1 25 
 
 OMITH— THE DYER'S INSTRUCTOR: 
 
 Comprising Practical Instructions in the Art of Dyeing Silk, 
 Cotton, Wool, and Worsted, and Woollen Goods: containing 
 nearly 800 Receipts. To which is added a Treatise on the Art 
 of Padding ; and the Printing of Silk Warps, Skeins, and 
 Handkerchiefs, and the various Mordants and Colors for the 
 different styles of such work. By David Smith, Pattern 
 Dyer. 12mo., cloth $3 00 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 21 
 
 aMITH.— PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS : 
 
 Or Practical Notes on Country Residences, Villas, Public 
 Parks, and Gardens. By Charles H. J. Smith, Landscape 
 Gardener and Garden Architect, etc. etc. 12mo. . $2 25 
 
 qTOKES.— CABINET-MAKER'S AND UPHOLSTERER'S COMPA- 
 ° NION: 
 
 Comprising the Rudiments and Principles of Cabinet-making 
 and Upholstery, with Familiar Instructions, Illustrated by Ex- 
 amples for attaining a Proficiency in the Art of Drawing, as 
 applicable to Cabinet-work ; The Processes of Veneering, In- 
 laying, and Buhl-work ; the Art of Dyeing and Staining Wood, 
 Bone, Tortoise Shell, etc. Directions for Lackering, Japan- 
 ning, and Varnishing ; to make French Polish ; to prepare the 
 Best Glues, Cements, and Compositions, and a number of Re- 
 ceipts particularly for workmen generally. By J. Stokes. In 
 one vol. 12mo. With illustrations . . . . $1 25 
 
 STRENGTH AND OTHER PROPERTIES OF METALS. 
 
 Reports of Experiments on the Strength and other Proper- 
 ties of Metals for Cannon. With a Description of the Machines 
 for Testing Metals, and of the Classification of Cannon in ser- 
 vice. By Officers of the Ordnance Department U. S. Army. 
 By authority of the Secretary of War. Illustrated by 25 large 
 steel plates. In 1 vol. quarto $10 00 
 
 rpABLES SHOWING THE WEIGHT OF ROUND, SQUARE, AND 
 1 FLAT BAR IRON, STEEL, ETC., 
 
 By Measurement. Cloth ...... 63 
 
 mAYLOR.— STATISTICS OF COAL : 
 
 Including Mineral Bituminous Substances employed in Arts 
 and Manufactures ; with their Geographical, Geological, and 
 Commercial Distribution and amount of Production and Con- 
 sumption on the American Continent. With Incidental Sta- 
 tistics of the Iron Manufacture. By R. C. Taylor. Second 
 edition, revised by S. S. Haldeman. Illustrated by five Maps 
 and many wood engravings. 8vo., cloth . . . $6 00 
 
 rpEMPLETON.— THE PRACTICAL EXAMINATOR ON STEAM 
 *■ AND THE STEAM-ENGINE : 
 
 With Instructive References relative thereto, for the Use of 
 Engineers, Students, and others. By Wm. Templeton, Engi- 
 neer. 12mo. . . . - . . . . $1 25 
 
22 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 rpHOMAS.— THE MODERN PRACTICE OF PHOTOGRAPHY. 
 L By R. W. Thomas, F. C. S. 8vo., cloth ... 75 
 
 rpHOMSON.— FREIGHT CHARGES CALCULATOR. 
 
 By Andrew Thomson, Freight Agent . . . $1 25 
 
 rpURNBULL.— THE ELECTRO-MAGNETIC TELEGRAPH : 
 
 With an Historical Account of its Rise, Progress, and Present 
 Condition. Also, Practical Suggestions in regard to Insula- 
 tion and Protection from the effects of Lightning. Together 
 with an Appendix, containing several important Telegraphic 
 Devices and Laws. By Lawrence Tnrnbull, M. D., Lectu- 
 rer on Technical Chemistry at the Franklin Institute. Revised 
 and improved. Illustrated. 8vo. . . . . $3 00 
 
 rpURNER'S (THE) COMPANION : 
 
 Containing Instructions in Concentric, Elliptic, and Eccentric 
 Turning; also various Plates of Chucks, Tools, and Instru- 
 ments ; and Directions for using the Eccentric Cutter, Drill, 
 Vertical Cutter, and Circular Rest; with Patterns and Instruc- 
 tions for working them. A new edition in one vol. 12mo. 
 
 $1 50 
 
 TTLRICH— DUSSAUCE.— A COMPLETE TREATISE ON THE ART 
 U OF DYEING- COTTON AND WOOL: 
 
 As practised in Paris, Rouen, Mulhausen, and Germany. 
 From the French of M. Louis Ulrich, a Practical Dyer in 
 the principal Manufactories of Paris, Rouen, Mulhausen, etc. 
 etc. ; to which are added the most important Receipts for Dye- 
 ing Wool, as practised in the Manufacture Impe'riale des Go- 
 belins, Paris. By Professor H. Dussattce. 12mo. $3 00 
 
 TTRBIN— BBULL.— A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR PUDDLING 
 
 U IRON AND STEEL. 
 
 By Ed. Urbin, Engineer of Arts and Manufactures. A Prize 
 Essay read before the Association of Engineers, Graduate of 
 the School of Mines, of Liege, Belgium, at the Meeting of 
 1865 — 6. To which is added a Comparison of the Resisting 
 Properties of Iron and Steel. By A. Brull. Translated 
 from the French by A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. In 
 one volume, 8vo. . . . . . . . $1 00 
 
 WATSON.— A MANUAL OF THE HAND-LATHE. 
 
 Ey Egbert P. Watson, Late of the "Scientific American," 
 Author of "Modern Practice of American Machinists and 
 Engineers." In one volume, 12mo. (In press.) 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 23 
 
 WATSON.— THE MODERN PRACTICE OF AMERICAN KA- 
 VV CHINISTS AND ENGINEERS : 
 
 Including the Construction, Application, and Use of Drills, 
 Lathe Tools, Cutters for Boring Cylinders, and Hollow Work 
 Generally, with the most Economical Speed of the same, the 
 Results verified by Actual Practice at the Lathe, the Vice, and 
 on the Floor. Together with Workshop management, Economy 
 of Manufacture, the Steam-Engine, Boilers, Gears, Belting, etc. 
 etc. By Egbert P. Watson, late of the " Scientific American." 
 Illustrated by eighty-six engravings. 12mo. . . $2 50 
 
 WAT30N.— THE THEORY AND PRACTICE OF THE ART OF 
 VV V/EAVING BY HAND AND POWER: 
 
 With Calculations and Tables for the use of those connected 
 with the Trade. By John Watson, Manufacturer and Prac- 
 tical Machine Maker. Illustrated by large drawings of the 
 best Power-Looms. 8vo. $7 50 
 
 WEATHERLY.— TREATISE ON THE ART OF BOILING SU- 
 VV GAR, CRYSTALLIZING, LOZENGE-MAKING, COMFITS, 
 GUM GOODS, 
 
 And other processes for Confectionery, &c. In which are ex- 
 plained, in an easy and familiar manner, the various Methods 
 of Manufacturing every description of Raw and Refined sugar 
 Goods, as sold by Confectioners and others . . $2 00 
 
 WILL.— TABLES FOR QUALITATIVE CHEMICAL ANALYSIS. 
 By Prof. Heinrich Will, of Giessen, Germany. Seventh edi- 
 tion. Translated by Charles F. Himes, Ph. D., Professor of 
 Natural Science, Dickinson College, Carlisle, Pa. . $1 25 
 
 WILLIAMS.— ON HEAT AND STEAM : 
 
 Embracing New Views of Vaporization, Condensation, and 
 Expansion. By Charles Wye Williams, A. I. C. E. Illus- 
 trated. 8vo $3 50 
 

 J 
 


STERLING & FRANCINE CLARK ART INSTITUTE 
 
 NK8804 .L68 1869 stack 
 
 Love. Thomas/The art of dyeing, cleaning 
 
 3 1962 00074 0039 
 
 3ing 
 
 I