i Z- gl5ELi:3ta ^RLSjS15T5Tai S i5T 5 i a5lsl51515151513 mo* AjHathirmnt - " 1 1: k is the precious life-blood of a m .H ster spirit. lGlEfH^gjF. JciJ aja^Ff^ f riE g j aa g gJafajgj - 3fi= , STEHJL1 N G AND FRAN CINE CLA1UC ART INSTITUTE L1BRART y l^T^JMW .- ®',°r®~,°r ®^°r Shf- . AN* ILLUSTRA.TION OF THE EGYPTIAN, GRECIAN, AND ROMAN COSTUME; IN FORTY OUTLINES, CSJttj) ^Descriptions, SELECTED, DRAWN, # ENGRAVED, BY THOMAS BAXTER. Ml LONDON: PRINTED FOR WILLIAM MILLER, ALBEMARLE STREETs By J. & E. Hodson, Cross Street, Hntton Garden. — «*!»— 1810. TO HENRY FUSELI, ESQ. PROFESSOR IN PAINTING, AXD KEEPER OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY, AS A SMALL TESTIMONY OF GRATITUDE, TOR HIS READINESS TO ACCELERATE THE PROGRESS OF THE STUDENTS UNDER HIS CARE; THIS WORK IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, BY HIS OBLIGED HUMBLE SERVANT, THOMAS BAXTER. Cohhmith Street, Gough Square, July, 1810. IT is intended in the present Work t& give, in a regular series. Specimens of the Character and Costume of the God and Goddess, Priest and Priestess, Warrior, Lady, Peasant, and Child, of the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans; but especially of the Greeks, as it is to them we owe nearly all that is elegant or digni- fied in Art* DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. J. HE Frontispiece is a Greek Vase, with such ornaments as are commonly seen on the Vase. The Bust of Minerva Hippias, protected by the tryphalia, or triple-crested hel- met and cegis, is from a gem : Homer gives to the golden helmet of Jupiter a four crests. The cegis worn by Ju- piter and Minerva, alternately as a breast-plate and a shield, consisted of a goat's skin, with scales of metal affixed to it. A gorgon's head was placed in the centre, and the mar- gin was ornamented with golden serpents. The tree on each side is the olive in bloom. Plate 1. Osiris and Isis, from b Statues; Egyptian Symbols from Denon. Perhaps in these statues we see the dress of the Priest and Priestess of the God and Goddess. Of the Egyptian garments, the name of but one, the cala- siris, has come down to us ; which is said to have been a linen tunic, and frequently worn by itself. They had also woollen mantles ; but garments of wool were not admitted into the temples. According to c Diodorus Siculus, the king and priest of Egypt bore a sceptre like a plough share; several of this kind are represented amongst the symbols. Orus in the lap of Isis, and the Hawk, are emblems of the sun or light, and the beetle represents the world. The lion and sphinx are symbols of the rising and falling of the Nile : and the sistrum, or rattle, is an ancient Egyptian musical instrument. * llouicr. Iliad. Book 8. b Museum Capitolinum. c Book 1. 6 Plate 2. Costume of an Egyptian Female, from a frag- ment of a Sphinx and paintings in the British Museum ; the chair, stool, and harp, from Denon. There are few figures on the painted mummies and coffins, without this head dress, though the majority have not the ribbon. The Egyptians wore garments of d fine linen of all colours, striped and checquered ; e wreathed bracelets and f chains of gold for the neck ; and golden bracelets for the arm and leg. Plate 3. Egyptian Costume, from Denon. The gar- ment seen on the figures attending the plough is frequently represented in this manner on the mummies in the British Museum. Denon says, that the plough is such as is used at present. The sower has a collar on. The figure hold- ing a staff terminated by the flower of the lotus, is a Spriest in an embroidered garment, a cap and h linen shoes. The bending figure is habited in a 'leathern cap, and a garment of a single piece of embroidered cloth folded round the body, supported by two straps fastened to an ornamented metal girdle, in which is a poniard ; the arm is adorned by a bracelet, and the feet are protected by sandals. The hel- met ornamented in front with the hooded snake, in which the warrior appears, was generally of brass; his body is protected by the thorax or pectoral, which was made of linen, k closely folded so as to resist a weapon. The Egyptian soldiers sometimes carried a small oblong shield. Plate 4. An Egyptian Tumbler on the bach of a tame Crocodile. The figure is naked except that the hair cover- ing the head appears to be artificial; the Egyptians 'shaved the heads of their children at a very early age, and kept them so ever after, except in times of mourning. Plate 5. Juno, Neptune, and Ceres; from a cast of a bas relief in a very ancient style of execution. In the Iliad, m Juno binds up part of her hair; the rest waves on her d Genesis, chap. xli. e Herodotus. Thalia. f Genesis, chap. xli. s Deuon. h Herodotus. Euterpe. 'Denon. k Herodotus. CMo,* 1 Herodotus. Thalia. ro Book xiv. shoulders. " Around her flows" a figured peplon or man- tle, fastened with clasps of gold; a white veil is thrown over her head, and sandals " grace her feet." Sandals and shoes were sometimes n embroidered, and sometimes of °gold. Neptune appears in the peplon, which was a thin robe usually worn by women, and sometimes richly orna- mented: it was folded round the body, and occasionally fastened with clasps, or buckles. Ceres is invested in the inner and outer chiton or tunic: over these is a long robe of which the extremity is carried up and supported on the left arm : it is bound under the breast by a zone ; and fas- tened on the arm with peronei or clasps. The zone was sometimes of Pgold. Plate 6. Jupiter, Minerva, and Hercules; or Majesty, Wisdom and Strength ; from casts of busts. Plate f. Hercules contending with Hyppolita Jor the girdle of Mars. From Sir W. Hamilton's Phases, vol. 1. plates 12 and 13. Hercules is generally represented on the Greek vases, in the lion's skin tied round his neck by the fore paws, the head forming a cap, and the rest hanging down as a cloak or mantle. The Grecian heroes are some- times described as wearing the skin of some animal which they have vanquished, borne as a trophy over their armour or other attire. Hyppolita is habited in a very close dress, formed perhaps of a leopard's skin, and bound with the girdle. Her bonnet, which is Phrygian, seems to be com- posed of the skin of some small animal, of which the orna ments hanging loose on each side may be the legs ; some- times they are represented as turned up and fastened at the top. She has likewise the chlamys, or travelling cloak, and shoes. Plate 8. Hercules shooting the Stymphalides, from a *ibas relief. The club was the earliest offensive weapon, and next in priority followed the bow and arrow. The Greek bow was made of a r goat's horns, and was drawn to n Iliad 2. Odyssey 13. ° Potter's Euripides. Iphigeniain Aulis. ? Iliad 14. 9 Museum Clemcntinum. r Iliad 4. the breast. The quiver slung over the shoulder, was a case for the bow as well as the arrows ; it was sometimes richly s ornamented, and some representations have a cover of skin to protect the arrows. Plate 9. Homer and his Muse, from a cast of a bas re- lief. The Muse is habited in two varieties of the chiton, one having long and the other short sleeves. A shawl or small mantle thrown over her shoulder, encircles her waist. Homer has the peplon, or larger mantle, loosely worn. Plate 10. Three Grecian heads, from casts of busts. The names of the persons represented are doubtful. The nearest, long considered Ariadne, is now called Bacchus ; the hair is bound up, and crowned with ivy in the manner of a Bacchante. The second, wearing a helmet adorned with sculpture, is supposed to be Achilles. The hair of the third hangs loosely down on each side of the face. Plate 1 1 . A Grecian Priest and Priestess at the Altar, preparing to perform a Libation, from a vase in the Bri- tish Museum. They are both habited in the peplon and chiton, one with long full sleeves and the other without sleeves. Their hair is in the style of the most ancient Greek works. Priests and heralds wore *the laurel crown. The feet are destitute of covering, which seems to have been customary in "Greek temples. The priest holds the patera and the priestess the vase. Plate 1 2. A Priest of Bacchus and Attendant, or Faun, from a vase in the British Museum. The faun is naked except that he has a mask with horns. Plate 13. Faun and Y Bacchante, from a cast of a bas relief. They each carry a thyrsus in the right hand and vase in the left. The thyrsus was a stick, or reed, termi- nated by a fir cone, sometimes ornamented with ivy leaves, fillets, ribbons and flowers. 8 Odyssey 21. * Eschylus. Agamemnon, and Sophocles. Trachinice. u Euripides. Ion. v For a description of which see the Bacchte of Euripides. 9 Plate 14. A Bacchanalian crowned with ajillet and ivy leaves, dancing to a Bacchante piping; the latter is at- tired in loose robes; a mouth-piece to fit the pipes is fas- tened on her head. From Sir W. Hamilton's Vases, vol. 3, plate 17, and a Vase in the British Museum. Plate 15. A Bacchante hearing a wreath of Laurel Leaves to hind round the neck of the Victim, from a cast of a bas relief. Plate 16. Grecian musical Performers and Instru- ments. A Bacchanalian with double pipes; from Sir W. Hamilton's Vases, vol. 2. plate 41. Apollo Musagetes with the lyre suspended from the left wrist ; from a bas relief in a very ancient style of execution. The Bacchante is playing pn the ' ' w deep-toned tymbrel," from Sir W. Ha- milton's Vases, vol. 2. plate 50. The separate lyre and altar are from vol. 2. plate 3$. Plate 17. A Greek Philosopher, from a cast of a statue. Plate 18. This appears to be the dress of an early Greek Warrior, and is from a drawing of a Vase formerly in the possession of Sir W. Hamilton, except that the greaves were plain in the drawing, and that the spear and shield have been supplied from other vases. The leathern hel- met has a "variegated crest of horse-hair ; to the y thorax or corslet also of leather, shoulder-guards are fastened. The corslet was sometimes of embroidered linen. The knemi- des, or greaves, were generally leather, occasionally of me- tal, and made to fit the legs exactly ; they were connected behind with z clasps or buckles, sometimes of silver. The Greek spears, usually pointed with brass, were sometimes very large: Hector's was a eleven cubits in length, and that of b Achilles, no Greek but himself could manage. The shields were sometimes of brass with a lining of skin. An attendant on the warrior usually carried the large round shield called aspis. Bacchce. x Iliad 3. » Iliad 7. l Iliad 11. * Iliad 6. b Iliad 19. c Euripides. Phoenician Virgins. B 10 Plate 19. A Greek Warrior, from a cast of a statue. The spear and sword are supplied from vases. The dress consists only of the chlamys, and koras, or head-piece with a fixed visor, which in battle was drawn down over the face. The chlamys is fastened on the right shoulder, and falls over the left arm, leaving the right at liberty ; the extremities were generally loaded with small pieces of metal, which prevented them from being lifted by the wind. This robe is seldom represented on the vases with- out a stripe or border at the margin. Plate 20. Iris in the costume of a herald or messen- ger (which consisted of the chlamys, chiton, and caduceus) presenting a helmet. Plate 21. A Young Warrior, from a Vase in the Bri- tish Museum. The body-armour from Sir W. Hamilton's Vases, vol. i. plate 4. The ornaments on the shield have been supplied from other Vases. The pharos or great mantle, which is frequently mentioned by Homer, was sometimes of a red colour. When the wearer was reposing, it was converted into a coverlet. A clasp or button confined it in front. The petassus, or hat, is thrown back upon the warrior's shoulders. The breast- plate of metal, with shoulder-guards, is affixed to a tunic, which seems to be of leather. Breast-plates were some- times of d gold, ornamented with sculpture. The tunic is worn over the chiton. The sandals are fastened half way up the legs. On the left side is a sword suspended from a zone, or baldric, which crosses his right shoulder; the baldric was sometimes richly ornamented. The Grecian sword was short, and usually made of brass ; the hilt some- times of e gold and sometimes of f ivory and gold. A warrior, if travelling, is seldom seen on the vases without two spears. Euripides describes the Greek soldiers to have carried s white shields; whilst those of their leaders were richly ornamented with devices, and sometimes bor- 1 Odyssey 19. e Iliad. f Pausanias. Book 6. chap. 19.' 8 Phoenician Virgins. 11 dered with h black. The white shields were probably of 1 willow. Plate 22. The Pyrrhic or War Dance, from Sir W. Hamilton's Fases, vol. i. plate 6o. The children of the Lacedemonians were taught this dance at a very early age ; and Hector is supposed to allude to it when he talks of k moving his feet to the sound of Mars. The breast- plate is apparently composed of three circular pieces of metal, fastened on the body by two straps crossing the shoulders and affixed to the mitra or 1 cincture at the groin. The Greek armour is generally called by Homer golden, or azure, as the materials used were either brass or iron ; gold was frequently used for the ornaments. The corslet or cuirass has two rows of hanging straps ; this fashion was adopted by the Romans. Plates 23 and 24, are from a Vase in the British Mu- seum, the figures on which probably represent the subject of Pelops and Hippodamia, or perhaps the Rape of Helen. Paris in the quadriga, or chariot, drawn by four horses used in the races; and again, appearing with Helen be- fore Cassandra, answers the descriptions of him given by m Euripides. Vests richly embroidered with figures in gold are described by n Eschylus; and similar garments are frequently mentioned by Homer and other Greek poets, and generally termed barbaric. Plate 25. Two Grecian Ladies. One from vol. 2. plate 12. Sir W. Hamilton's leases, the other from a Vase in the British Museum. The sitting figure has a small lyre and in her right hand she holds the plectron with which the strings were struck ; her dress is the long chiton without sleeves ; short tunics were considered vul- gar. The lady dancing has the chiton with sleeves, and a shawl or small mantle. ° Entwined wreaths, p purple fil- lets, and gems, were worn on the head by Grecian ladies h NEschylus. Seven Chiefs against Tliehcs. • Travels of Anacharsis, chap. 10. k Iliad 7. ' Iliad 5. w Trojan Dames, and Iphiginia. *Chcephorce. ° .Euripides. Medea. * Iliad 18. 12 The under tunic was made of linen or cotton, very fine, and generally white ; but the upper tunics, robes, and shawls, were of various colours ; scarlet, green, and purple, weie considered the richest. The embroidered stuffs were not worn by modest women, amongst the Greeks ; and at Athens there was a °t law to prohibit it. Plate 26. A Grecian Lady , and Servant, from Sir W. Hamilton's Vases, vol. 1. plate 10. The lady r " cul- ling the snowy fleece;" is supposed to represent Penelope. She is habited in the chiton with long full sleeves. The peplon lays loose over her knees. The servant holds a s fan of feathers. The vases which held the wool, cotton, or flax, were sometimes richly adorned with sculpture. Ivory chairs and footstools, ornamented with silver and covered with skins, are frequently mentioned by Homer and other Greek writers. Plate 27. A Grecian Lady at the Bath, the servant pouring perfumed water or v oil on her mistress. Plate 28. A Grecian Lady fainting her Face, with a Servant in attendance. The case is supposed to contain a fan of feathers. From Sir W. Hamilton's Vases, vol. 2. plates 36 and 58, and vol. 3. plate 51. The Grecian ladies painted their faces with u white and red ; and their eyebrows with black. They wore w ear-rings, which were sometimes very rich. x Golden bracelets were worn and the " mirrors golden round" is mentioned by y Euripides. Plate 29. A Grecian Lady performing Funeral Rites, from vol. 2. plate 30. Sir W. Hamilton's Vases. The Grecians when they mourned z cut their hair; and wore the peplon a over the head, and the tunic b black. This lady has made a c libation, and bound a fillet round the pillar or tomb ; she holds in her hand a wreath made of the hair which she has cut off. The hair was commonly