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Garment Dyeing 
 
 CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY 
 
 (AMERICAN BRANCH OF LEOPOLD CASSELLA & C°) 
 182 AND 184 FRONT STREET 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 BOSTON: 68 essex street 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 128 and 128 south front street 
 PROVIDENCE: 64 exchange place 
 ATLANTA: 47 north pryor street 
 MONTREAL, p. a.: 88 and 88 youville square. 
 

Contents. 
 
 Page 
 
 I. The Dyeing of Wool and Unions ... 5—28 
 
 A. Dyeing in strongly acid baths 5 
 
 Directions for dyeing in strongly acid baths ... 14 
 
 Staining the cotton 15 
 
 Directions for topping the cotton 18 
 
 Cotton dyeing as a first operation 18 
 
 B. Dyeing in weakly acid baths 19 
 
 Directions for dyeing in weakly acid baths ... 22 
 
 C. Dyeing in neutral baths with Diamine Colours and 
 
 wool dyestnffs 22 
 
 Directions for dyeing in neutral baths 24 
 
 D. Dyeing with basic dyestuffs 27 
 
 Directions for dyeing basic dyestuffs 28 
 
 II. The Dyeing of Silk 29—39 
 
 A Dyeing in acid baths 30 
 
 Directions for dyeing in acid baths ..... 36 
 
 B. Dyeing with Diamine Colours 37 
 
 C- Dyeing with basic dyestuffs 38 
 
 LLI. The Dyeing of Satin (Silk and Cotton) . . 40—43 
 
 Directions for dyeing with Diamine Colours ... 40 
 Directions for topping silk warp dyed with Diamine 
 
 Colours 41 
 
 IV. The Dyeing of Fabrics composed of Wool 
 
 and Silk 44-49 
 
 A. Djeing in acid baths , . • 44 
 
 Directions for dyeing in acid baths 45 
 
 B. Dyeing in neutral baths with Diamine Colours . . 40 
 Directions tor dyeing Diamine Colours in neutral 
 
 baths 47 
 
Page 
 
 V. The Dyeing of Cotton 50—60 
 
 A. Dyeing with Diamine Colours 50 
 
 Directions for dyeing with Diamine Colours ... 57 
 
 B. Dyeing with basic dyestuffs 58 
 
 Direotions for dyeing with basic dyestuffs .... 59 
 
 VI. The Dyeing of Linen and China-Grass . . 61 
 
 VII. The Dyeing of Jute and Cocoa-nut Fibre 62 
 
 VIII. The Dyeing of Straw and Chip 64 
 
 IX. The Dyeing of Feathers 65-67 
 
 A. Dyeing with acid dyestuffs 65 
 
 Directions for dyeing in aoid baths 67 
 
 B. Dyeing with basic dyestuffs . 67 
 
 X. The Dyeing of Skins and Rugs 68 
 
 XL Appendix 70—71 
 
 1. Stripping in alkaline baths 70 
 
 2. Stripping with oxydising agents 70 
 
 3. Stripping with reducing agents 71 
 
Preface. 
 
 In the following pages we give some instructions 
 for the employment of our dyestuffs in garment dyeing 
 based upon experience collected in practical working. 
 
 The goods treated by this branch of the dyeing in- 
 dustry being in the majority of cases more or less tender- 
 ed either by wear and tear or by solar and atmospherical 
 influences, we have carefully selected the dyestuffs most 
 suitable for re-dyeing purposes, and more especially 
 such dyestuffs as possess the property of covering 
 irregularities, dyeing easly level, and besides yielding 
 full shades. 
 
 The dyeings shown on the following pages have all 
 been produced on material in the grey, to which alone 
 the recipes apply; as however in garment dyeing it is 
 usually the question of re-dyeing goods that are already 
 dyed, our recipes must in such cases be to some extent 
 modified according to the ground shade of the material; 
 this a competent man of some experience can with ease 
 accomplish. 
 
 NOTE 
 
 NAPHTYLAMINE BLACK is the scien- 
 ™ F J, C «2 AME OF THE COLOR KNOWN 
 COMMERCIALLY AS ALIZARINE BLACK. 
 
 ,*!."* LANACYL COLORS ARE KNOWN 
 ??, M ^,1?it LLY AS ALIZARINE LANA- 
 
 CYL COLORS 
 
I. The Dyeing of Wool and Unions. 
 
 In garment dyeing the following four methods are 
 chiefly employed, each, as the case requires, yielding- 
 most excellent results. 
 
 a) Dyeing in strongly acid baths. 
 
 b) Dyeing in weakly acids baths. 
 
 c) Dyeing in neutral baths. 
 
 d) Dyeing with basic dyestuffs. 
 
 A I Dyeing in Strongly Acid Baths. 
 
 This is the oldest method and is principally applied 
 to ladies' wearing apparel or to upholstery goods which 
 have 1 n previously Btripped with soda ash and are in- 
 tended t<» be dyed to a shade altogether different from the 
 original. For this purpose the following dyestuffs are 
 specially suitable. 
 
 Pinks. Reds and Clarets. 
 
 Bright shades of pink are chiefly obtained 
 with Rosazeine B and 13. 
 
 Fur less bright shades, Lanafuchsine SB, SG, 
 Brilliant Cochineal 2R and 4R are used. 
 
 Boflazeine B.* 0,l°/o Brilliant Cochineal 4R. 
 
The Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Strongly Acid Baths- 
 Bright scarlets may be obtained with various 
 
 brands of Brilliant Scarlet and Brilliant Croceine, also 
 
 with Brilliant Cochineal 2R and 4R. 
 
 2,5 °/o Brilliant Scarlet 3R. 2,5 °/o Brilliant Croceine 5B. 
 
 2,50/o Brilliant Cochineal 2R. 2,5 °/o Brilliant Cochineal 4R. 
 
 For dark or bluish reds, Lanafuchsine SG, SB, 
 6B, Naphtol Red C, EB, Azo Rubine A, Azo Red A, 
 Brilliant Orseille C, Azo Orseille BB, Acid Magenta are 
 particularly suitable. 
 
 y,5°/o Lanafuchsine SB.* 
 
 :$°/o Azo Orseille H U." 
 
 2,6% Aoid Magenta.* 3,5 °/o Brilliant Orseille C pat.* 
 
The Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Strongly Acid Baths. 7 
 
 The red dyestuffs marked with an asterisk * possess 
 prominent levelling properties and are therefore excellently 
 suitable for mixed and mode shades. 
 
 For clarets the last mentioned dyestuffs may be 
 used and can be dulled or shaded with Azo Wool Vio- 
 let 7R or 4B, or with the brands of Cyanole mentioned 
 below, or, if required, with Cyanole Green B or 6G 
 and Orange extra also. 
 
 3,5 °b Lanafuchsine S B 
 0.2°/o Orange extra 
 0,1° o Cyanole Green B. 
 
 4 °/o Azo Rubine A 
 0,2 °/o Cyanole extra pat. 
 
 4,4 °/o Lanafuchsine SG 
 0,6% Azo Wool Violet 4B. 
 
 18 
 
 4,50/o Azo Red A 
 0,5<yo Cyanole 6G. 
 
 All the dyestuffs enumerated above are very fast to 
 liiiht and alkalies with the exception of Acid Magenta, 
 which is slightly inferior in this respect. 
 
 Pale Blue, Blue, Peacock, Navy and Dark Blue. 
 
 For pale blues either the various brands of 
 Cyanole, especially Cyanole extra, FF and BB, or the 
 Alkaline Blues R — 6B are used, according to the shade 
 required. 
 
 0,2<>/o Cyanole FF pat. 
 
 1,5% Cyanole extra pat. 
 
The Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Strongly Acid Bath 
 
 21 
 
 22 
 
 2,50/o Cyanole BB pat. 
 
 2,5 °/o Gyanole extra pat. 
 0,3<>/o Azo Wool Violet 7R. 
 
 0,1 % Alkaline Blue 6B. 
 
 20/o Alkaline Blue R. 
 
 For medium blues the same dyestuffs are ser- 
 viceable, and the Cyanoles can be shaded at will with 
 Azo Wool Violet 7R. 
 
 For peacock, navy and dark blue, combina- 
 tions of the following dyestuffs are useful, offering 
 an extensive variety of shades: Cyanole, Thio carmine, 
 Azo Wool Blue B or SE, Cyanole Green, Fast Acid 
 Green, Acid Green, Indigo Blue N and SGN along with 
 Azo Wool Violet 7R or 4B, Lanafuchsine SG,SB and 
 Brilliant Orseille C; for flattening these colours, Orange 
 extra and GG are serviceable. 
 
 _'..i" I yanole 15 H pat. 
 1,5% Cj anoie ' Ireen ii< I 
 
 :»°/o Indigo Blue SG N pat. 
 I 0/0 Azo Wool Violet 4 B. 
 
 1,50/0 ln.ii Blue SGN pal 
 . a Lanafu lisine S It. 
 
 5% A/.o Wool Blue B pa! 
 
The Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Strongly Acid Baths. 
 
 4.5°/o Fast Acid Green BN pat. 4,50/o Indigo Blue SGN pat. 
 
 0,S°o Azo Wool Violet 7R 0,5 °/o Lanafuohsine SB 
 
 0,1 °/o Orange extra. 0,3% Orange extra. 
 
 All these dyestuffs dye very easily level and are 
 very fast to light and alkalies for most purposes. 
 
 Yellow and Orange. 
 
 For bright greenish yellows, Naphtol Yellow 
 and Acid Yellow AT are used. 
 
 33 
 
 1° o Naphtol Yellow S. 
 
 1,5 °/o Acid Yellow AT. 
 
 For reddish yellows, Fast Yellow S, Indian 
 Yellow G. R, Tropaeoline 00 are serviceable. 
 
 2<>/o Fast Yellow S. 
 
 2°/o Indian Yellow G. 
 
 20/o Indian Yellow R 
 
 l,50/o Tropaeolin 00. 
 
10 The Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Strongly Acid Baths. 
 
 For orange, the Orange R, extra, II and GG 
 brands are used 
 
 /o Orange GG. 
 
 2°/o Orange extra, 
 
 These products dye very easily level and are very 
 fast to alkalies, with the exception of Naphtol Yellow. 
 The fastest to light amongst these dyestuffs are the Acid 
 Yellow AT, Fast Yellow S and Orange GG. 
 
 Yellow and Orange being but seldom used as self 
 colours, the above mentioned dyestuffs are chiefly applied 
 for shading modes, browns, greens and olives. 
 
 Green and Dark Green. 
 
 Very pale green shades are dyed with Acid 
 Green extra cone, extra cone. B and 5G. 
 
 41 
 
 WMiaii 
 
 42 
 
 2°/o Acid Groen extra cone. 
 
 2% Acid Green 5G. 
 
 Bluish greens are suitably produced with Fast 
 Acid Green B, BN, Cyanole Green B, 6G and S. 
 
 3°/o l'i-t \<'i<l ( Ireen B N pat. 
 
 2,5% Cyanole Green B. 
 
 2,. r )<>/o < lyanole Green 6G. 
 
The Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Strongly Acid Baths. 11 
 
 Dark greens can be dyed with the same dyestuffs 
 if suitably flattened or darkened with Orange extra or 
 GG. or with Lanafuchsine SG and Fast Yellow S. 
 
 3,5 °o Fast Acid Green B N pat. 
 0.5 °o Fast Yellow S 
 0,3 "o Orange extra. 
 
 3.5 ° o Cyanole Green 6 G 
 0,5% Fast Yellow S 
 1,5 °o Indigo Blue N pat. 
 
 Of the above mentioned products, the Cyanole Greens 
 are the best levelling, although the others are but very 
 slightly inferior in this respect; in fastness to light the 
 Cyanole Green brands are quite the best. The fastness to 
 light of all the dyestuffs mentioned above is satisfactory. 
 
 Grey and Mode Shades. 
 
 These shades being chiefly pale ones, attention 
 must be paid principally to level dyeing and best fastness 
 to light. Combinations of Cyanole extra or Cyanole 
 Green B with Orange GG or Fast Yellow S and Azo 
 Orseille BB are especially suitable for greys. 
 
 0,1 °o Cyanole extia pat 
 .\zo Orseille B B. 
 
 0,2 °o Cyanole Green B- 
 i'.i'5°o Orange extra 
 0,07 °o Azo Orseille BB. 
 
 For modes, combinations of Cyanole Green B. 
 6G with Orange extra, GG, Fast Yellow S and Acid 
 Yellow AT and Lanafuchsine SG, SB or Azo Orseille 
 BB are suitable. 
 
 I Cyanole extra pat. 
 Orange GO 
 Azo Orseille BB. 
 
 0,2 °o Cyanole Green B 
 0,15% Orange extra 
 0,04 0/o Azo Orseille B B. 
 
12 
 
 The Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Strongly Acid Baths- 
 
 Brown and Olive. 
 
 As no homogeneous dyestuffs yield any of these 
 shades direct, it is always advisable to produce 
 the desired shades by a combination of suitable 
 dyestuffs, for which purpose we recommend the follow- 
 ing products: Orange extra, Fast Yellow S, Indian 
 Yellow, Lanafuchsine and Cyanole, Cyanole Green or 
 Fast Acid Green BN; by varying the proportions 
 almost any shade may be produced. 
 
 52 
 
 n ,8 0/o Cyanole Green B 
 
 2 °/o Orange extra 
 
 1,8 °/o Lanafuchsine S G. 
 
 1,4% Cyanole Green 6G 
 
 2 °/o Orange extra 
 
 0,7 o/o Lanafuchsine S G. 
 
 3,5 o/o Fast Acid Green B N pat. 
 0,75 °/o Orange extra 
 1 °/o Indian Yellow G. 
 
 0,8 o/o Cyanoh 
 
 1,2 °/o Orange extra 
 
 2,5o/o Fast Yellow S. 
 
 55 
 
 4 0/0 Cyanole Green 6G 
 1,5% Orange extra 
 1 o/o p^ st Yellow S. 
 
 1,1 °/o Cyanole Green B 
 
 2 °/o Orange extra 
 
 1 °/o Lanafuchsine S G. 
 
 Purple and Prune. 
 
 Suitable dyestuffs for these shades are: Azo Wool 
 Violet 7R and 4B, Formyl Violet S4B, S5B, 6B— 10B, 
 the two first named being noted for dyeing very level; 
 in fastness to alkalies the Formyl Violets are however 
 superior. For shading towards blue, Cyanole may be 
 
The Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Strongly Acid Baths. 13 
 
 used; prune is obtained by shading with Lanafuchsine, 
 Cyanole or Cyanole Green. 
 
 2 0/o Azo Wool Violet 7 E. 
 
 59 
 
 2«/o Azo Wool Violet 4B. 
 
 2 % Formyl Violet S 4 B pat- 
 
 2°/o Formly Violet 10 B pat. 
 
 1,5 o/o Azo Wool Violet 7 R. 
 0,75 °/o Cyanole extra pat. 
 1,5 °/o Lanafuchsine S G. 
 
 (S3 
 
 2,5 o/o Azo Wool Violet 4 B 
 0,4% Cyanole Green B 
 0,1 % Lanafuchsine S G. 
 
 Black. 
 
 For dyeing black in strongly acid baths which 
 effect the stripping of the ground colour and con- 
 sequently cause an even distribution of the black dye 
 over each single garment, the Naphtol Blacks B, 2 B, 
 3B, 6B, SG, and the Naphtylamine Blacks S, T, TJ, 
 are of primary importance; Naphtol Blue Black is used 
 as a greenish-blue black. 
 
 65 
 
 7o/o Naphtol Black 3 B. 
 
 6 0/o Naphtol Blak S G. 
 
14 The Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Strongly Acid Baths. 
 
 67 
 
 6% Napktylaniine Black S pat. 6°/o Naphtylamine Black T J pat. 
 
 5% Naphtol Blue Black pat. 
 
 Very bright blacks are obtained with our new 
 Azo Merino Blacks BE and 6 BE. 
 
 70 
 
 6°/o Azo Merino Black BE pat. 6°/o Azo Merino Black G BE pat 
 
 These brands dye very level and have a good 
 covering power. Naphtol Black B, 2B, 3B, 6B and 
 Azo Merino Black yield bluish, the rest denser shades. 
 According to the shade to be obtained, other dyes, 
 such as Indian Yellow, Orange, Acid Green, Cyanole 
 Green may be used in the same bath for producing 
 any special shade of black. The Naphtylamine Blacks 
 require somewhat less acid than the Naphtol Blacks 
 and Naphtol Blue Black. 
 
 Directions for Dyeing in a Strongly Acid Bath. 
 
 The dyestuffs already referred to are one and all 
 dyed with the addition. of 10 to 20°/f> Glauber's salt and 
 4 to 5°/0 sulphuric acid or 10 to 15°/o bisulphate of soda. 
 A still Larger quantity of acid is not only superfluous, 
 but may even frequently do harm by causing the dye- 
 stuff to dye too rapidly. This is a point to be considered 
 when dyeing heavy goods which are not easily pene- 
 trated; it is (hen sometimes advisable and advantageous 
 to use acetic acid in place of sulphuric acid, and to add 
 
Staining the Cotton. 15 
 
 a little of the latter for clearing the bath completely, but 
 not before it appears nearly exhausted; an increase of 
 the quantity of Glauber's salt may in such case be also 
 of advantage. 
 
 As a rule the goods are entered at or near 140 to 
 160°F., the dye-bath is slowly heated to the boil and boiled 
 for one hour, after which the goods are rinsed in cold 
 water. The dye-baths exhaust almost completely, and it 
 is therefore unnecessary to keep them. 
 
 Alkaline Blue is dyed near 175 to 195° F. with the 
 addition of either lo/o soda crystals or 4 to 5 o/ borax; 
 after dyeing, the goods are rinsed, and raised in a hot 
 bath containing some sulphuric acid. 
 
 Staining the Cotton. 
 
 As already explained, the wool only is dyed by 
 working according to the above methods ; cotton threads 
 or linings are left undyed and generally become lighter 
 in shade than they were originally. Silk stitches or 
 trimmings are frequently stained, but as a rule they re- 
 main paler than the wool; reference to the simultaneous 
 dyeing of wool and silk in one bath will be found 
 further on. 
 
 For dyeing the cotton, the cumbrous sumac and iron 
 liquor process was formerly employed to a considerable 
 extent, as in many cases it was sufficient to make the 
 cotton appear dark and covered, but whenever the cotton 
 and wool had to be of uniform shade, topping with basic 
 dyestuffs had to be resorted to. 
 
 This process is a rather troublesome one and there- 
 fore not much liked, especially so because, during the 
 subsequent topping of the cotton, the wool absorbs a large 
 quantity of dyestuffs and is consequently liable to smut. 
 
 With the introduction of our Diamine Colours an 
 excellent opportunity presented itself to shorten this 
 roundabout process and yet obtain much better results. 
 The wool is dyed first in an acid bath as described above, 
 
 goods are then rinsed well and cotton-dyed in a cold 
 or lukewarm bath. If carried out in an adequate manner, 
 the process gives very good results and clean goods; 
 
16 
 
 Staining the Cotton. 
 
 it is however advisable to keep the wool on the light 
 side of the shade to be matched and to bring it to the 
 proper shade whilst dyeing the cotton, this result being 
 secured by slightly warming the dye-bath containing 
 Diamine Colours. 
 
 The following Diamine Colours are specially suitable 
 for cotton dyeing by reason of their not tinting the wool 
 or only slightly so: 
 
 Diamine Fast Yellow A Diamine Brown M pat. 
 Diamine Orange G, D Diamine Nitrazol Brown B 
 
 Diamine Black BH,RMW pat. pat. 
 
 Diamine Sky Blue pat. Diamine Catechine B pat. 
 
 Diamine Rose BD pat. Diamineral Blue R pat. 
 
 The following tint the wool slightly more, but still 
 are useful. 
 
 Diamine Red 4B, 10 B pat. 
 Cotton Red A 
 Diamine Brown S pat. 
 Diamine Blue 2B, 3B, BX, 
 NC pat. 
 Diamine Green B, G pat. 
 Diamine Black HW pat. 
 Diamine Brilliant Blue G pat. 
 
 Diamine Heliotrope 0, B, G 
 pat. 
 
 Oxy Diamine Violet B pat. 
 
 Diamine Bordeaux B pat. 
 
 Diamine Past Yellow B, FP 
 pat. 
 
 Diamine Catechine 3G pat. 
 
 Wool dyed first with: 
 
 0,12°/o Cyanole Green B 
 
 0,02 o/o Orange GG 
 
 (l,05 0/o Azo Orsoille 11B. 
 
 Cotton topped per 
 10 gallons dye-T>guor with 
 
 0,08 oz Diamine Black RMW pat. 
 0,029 „ Diamine Sky Blue pat. 
 
 72 
 
 ".1 0/0 1 lyanole Green B 
 1 % Tropaeoline 00 
 0,8** Lanafaohaine 8 <i. 
 
 0,04 oz Diamine Brown l\l pat. 
 
 0,4 „ Diamine Black B 11 pat. 
 0,4 „ Diamine Orange D. 
 
Staining the Cotton. 
 
 Wool dyed first -with: 
 
 2,3 o/o Indigo Blue S G N pat. 
 0,2 o/o Formyl Violet S 4B pat. 
 0,15% Orange extra. 
 
 Cotton topped per 
 10 gallons dye-liquor with: 
 
 73a 
 
 3,2 oz Diamine Black BH pat. 
 1,6 „ Diamine Blue 2B pat. 
 0,16 „ Diamine Bordeaux B pat. 
 
 2°/o Azo Rubioe A. 
 
 74a 
 
 2,4 oz Diamine Nitrazol Brown B pat. 
 0,8 „ Diamine Red 4B. 
 
 l."i°o Cyanole Green B 
 1 °/o Fast Yellow S 
 0,3°/o Orange extra. 
 
 0,-18 oz Diamine Orange D 
 
 3,2 „ Diamine Fast Yellow A 
 
 1,28 „ Diamine Sky Blue pat. 
 
 4* J o Naplitvhimiiif Black S pat. 
 
 76a 
 
 4,8 oz Diamine Black RMW pat. 
 2,4 „ Diamine Black BH pat. 
 
 By suitable combination of the various dyestuffs, any 
 esired shade may be obtained. Another series of shades 
 n dress goods will be found in our pattern card No 2238, 
 nd on upholstery goods in pattern card No 2202. 
 
18 Cotton Dyeing as a First Operation. 
 
 Directions for Topping the Cotton. 
 
 The goods previously dyed in the acid bath must be 
 well rinsed and are then dyed in a short and concentrated 
 bath containing 1 /2 to 1 lb of Glauber's salt, V-/2 oz liquid 
 ammonia per 10 gallons and the requisite dyestuffs, the 
 temperature being 68 to 77° F. Having left the goods 
 in this bath for 1 /4 to V 2 tour, the are lifted, hydro- 
 extracted or well drained, and rinsed in cold water, finally 
 with the additon of some acetic acid. 
 
 The baths not being exhausted, it is advisable to keep 
 them for dyeing future lots. 
 
 Cotton Dyeing as a First Operation. 
 
 Another very suitable process for covering the cotton, 
 which has been successfully introduced, is, dyeing the 
 cotton first, i. e. before the. wool, the latter being then 
 dyed in a second (acid) bath. 
 
 It is quite evident that for this purpose the cotton 
 dyestuff must be fast to acids. There being but very few 
 cotton dyestuffs answering this condition, the choice is 
 limited to a few grey shades and blacks on cotton, which 
 is however quite sufficient for most purposes. 
 
 To this end the goods are dyed in a bath of 100 to 
 125° F. with 2 to 3o/ Diamine Milling Black B cone, or 
 FG extra in a minimum quantity of water containing 3 oz 
 soda ash and 1 lb Glauber's salt per 10 gallons. After 
 dyeing, the goods are hydro extracted or allowed to drain 
 well, and rinsed in cold water. 
 
 Cotton is dyed from grey to black by this process 
 wiilioul staining the wool to any extent, which can then 
 be dyed in a fresh acid hath to any shade. This very 
 simple way Leads to quite excellent results for navy, 
 darl green, brown and black shades. 
 
 Ii bas to be borne in mind thai the quantity of acid 
 used for woo] dyeing be doI too small, and that Iho boiling 
 be Dot unduly prolonged. 
 
The Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Weakly Acid Baths 
 
 19 
 
 Cotton dyed as a first operation with 
 4% Diamine Milling Black FG extra pat. 
 
 Wool undyed. 
 
 Wool dyed gubsequently with 
 0,6° o Cyanole Green B 
 1,5 °/o Orange extra 
 1 °/o Lanafuolisine SG. 
 
 Wool dyed subsequently with 
 2,75°/o Indigo Blue SGN pat. 
 0,25% Lanafuchsine 6B. 
 
 Wool dyed subsequently with 
 4°/o Xaphtylamine Black S pat. 
 
 Bj Dyeing in Weakly Acid Baths. 
 
 This method offers the advantage of not stripping 
 the cotton threads and linings, which therefore do not 
 require to be re-dyed; silk also is in most cases fairly 
 well covered by this method. 
 
 The process is chiefly applied for re-dyeing dark 
 coloured wearing apparel which has not been previously 
 stripped with soda ash, but only slightly cleaned, ready 
 for re-deying. 
 
 For Navy Blue and Dark Blue 
 
 our Lanacyl Blue 2B and R are very suitable, which 
 for reddish blues are shaded with Lanacyl Violet B; 
 for very dark blues, Lanacyl Navy Blue and 3B 
 are used. 
 
 These dy«- stuffs may besides be shaded with Formyl 
 Violet 84B 3 Formyl Blue B, Naphtol Blue Black and 
 
20 
 
 The Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Weakly Acid Baths. 
 
 Brilliant Milling Green B, which go on to the fibre under 
 similar conditions; if the cotton is to be slightly tinted, 
 small quantities of either Diamine Black BH or Diamine 
 Dark Blue B should be added. 
 
 82 
 
 2,5<>/o Lanacyl Blue 2B pat. 
 
 2,5 °/o Lanaoyl Blue R pat. 
 
 84 
 
 2,5 °/o Lanaoyl Violet B pat. 
 
 2,5% Lanacyl Navy Blue B pat. 
 
 85 
 
 20/6 Formyl Blue B pat. 
 
 For Dark Green and Olive. 
 
 For dark green, combinations of Diamine Green B 
 or G with Brilliant Milling Green B, or Naphtol Blue 
 Black and a little Indian Yellow G are useful. Olive 
 can be obtained by adding a little more of either Indian 
 Yellow and Orange extra, or Oxy Diamine Brown G, 
 according to requirement. 
 
 87 
 
 Il°/o Diamine Green B pal. 
 
 3°/o Diamine Green G pat. 
 
The Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Weakly Acid Baths. 
 
 21 
 
 2% Brilliant Milling Green B. 
 
 89 
 
 2,5% Diamine Green B pat. 
 l,5<yo Brilliant Milling Green B. 
 
 1,5% Diamine Green B pat 
 0,5% Oxy Diamine Brown G 
 0,5% Indian Yellow G. 
 
 For Brown. 
 
 Depending on the shade required, Diamine Brown M, 
 Diamineral Brown G or Oxy Diamine Brown G are 
 useful ; these may be darkened with either Naphtol 
 Blue Black or Lanacyl Blue 2B and shaded towards 
 yellow with Indian Yellow G or R. 
 
 3% Diamineral Brown M pat. 
 
 3% Diamineral Brown G pat. 
 
 •1° Oxy Diamine Brown G. 
 
 04 
 
 % Diamine Brown M pat. 
 0,6% Naphtol Blue Black pat. 
 
 For Blaek, 
 
 which in garment dyeing also may be considered the 
 most important dye, our various brands of Naphylamine 
 Black are very Largely used. Naphtylamine Black 4 B 
 
22 
 
 Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Neutral Baths 
 
 and 6B and Naphtyl Blue Black N may be especially 
 recommended; colours suitable for shading are Forrnyl 
 Blue B, Brilliant Milling Green B, Indian Yellow G 
 and Orange. 
 
 5% Naphtylamine Black 4B pat- 4,5 °/o Naphtyl Blue Black N pat. 
 
 Directions for Dyeing in Weakly Acid Baths. 
 
 The goods are dyed at the simmer with the addition 
 of 10 to 20o/o Glauber's salt and 3 to 50/0 acetic acid; for 
 black, the quantity of acetic acid may be increased to lOo/o 
 It is not necessary to exhaust the baths completely; 
 they must however always react slightly acid. Care 
 must be taken that the goods do not contain any alkali 
 on entering the dye liquor. 
 
 C) Dyeing in Neutral Baths with Diamine Colours 
 and Wool Dyestuffs. 
 
 Dyeing in neutral baths is chiefly applied to union 
 goods containing considerable quantities of cotton which 
 is required to be of exactly the same shade as the wool. 
 All-wool goods may however be dyed with Diamine 
 Colours if fastness to washing be required; in this case 
 the products enumerated in column I are applied. 
 
 Diamine Colours are principally used on union goods 
 either alone or in combination with such wool colours 
 as dye well in a neutral hath. 
 
with Diamine Colours and Wool Colours. 
 
 28 
 
 We give in the following a list of the Diamine 
 Colours and wool colours suitable for dyeing union goods, 
 arranged according to their behaviour towards wool and 
 cotton, and also a survey of those wool dyes which 
 may he used for shading in neutral baths. 
 
 I. Diamine Colours 
 
 which dye both wool and 
 
 cotton alike or a nearly 
 
 solid shade. 
 
 II. Dyestufls 
 
 which dye the cotton a 
 
 deeper shade than the wool- 
 
 Ill. Dyestuffs 
 
 r hich dye the wool in a 
 
 neutral bath. 
 
 Red, Pink and Claret. 
 
 Diamine Rose BD, GD pat. 
 Diamine Brilliant Scarlet S 
 Oxy Diamine Red S 
 Diamine Red 4B, 5B, 6B, 
 10 B, D pat. 
 Diamine Fast Red F pat. 
 Diamine Purpurine B, 3B, 
 
 Diamine Bordeaux B, B R 
 
 Irisamine G r 
 Rosazeine 13 
 Azo Red A 
 Croceine A Z 
 Roccelline. 
 
 Blue and Dark Blue. 
 
 Diamine Brilliant Blue G pat. Diamine Sky Blue pat. 
 
 Diamine Blue RW pat. 
 Diamine New Blue G pat. 
 Diamine Steel Blue L pat. 
 Diamine Fast Blue C. C G pat. 
 Union Blue FN pat. 
 Diamine Dark Blue B pat. 
 Oxy Diamine Blue R,G, 3 G, 
 5G pat. 
 Diaminogene B pat. 
 
 Diamine Sky Blue FF pat. 
 Diamine Blue 2B, 3 B, B G, 
 N C pat. 
 Diamine New Blue R pat 
 Diamineral Blue R pat. 
 Diamine Black BH pat, 
 
 Formyl Blue B pat. 
 | Naphtol Blue G, R pat. 
 Lanacyl Blue R, 2B pat. 
 Lanacyl Navy Blue B, 2 B pat, 
 Thiocarmine R powder pat, 
 Alkaline Blue 3 R— 6B. 
 
 Yellow and Orange. 
 
 Thioflavine S pat, 
 Oxy Diamine Yellow GG 
 Diamine Yellow CP 
 Diamine Fast Yellow B, FFpat. 
 Diamine Orange B. 
 
 Diamine Fast Yellow A 
 Diamine Orange G, D. 
 
 Naphtaline Yellow 
 Indian Yellow G, R 
 Tropaeoline 
 Orange extra, ENZ. 
 
 Green and Dark Green. 
 
 Diamine Green B, G pat. 
 
 irilliant Milling Green 
 
 Diamine Brown M, R pat, 
 Diamineral Brown G pat. 
 Oxy Diamine Brown G 
 Diamine Catechine 3 G, G pat. 
 Brown TD pat. 
 
 Brow n . 
 
 Diamine Catechine B pat. 
 
 Diamine Nitrazol 
 
 Brown G 
 pat, 
 
24 
 
 Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Neutral Baths 
 
 I. Diamine Colours 
 
 which dye hoth wool and 
 
 cotton alike or a nearly 
 
 solid shade. 
 
 II Dj-estuffs 
 which dye the cotton a 
 deeper shade than the wool. 
 
 III. Dyestuffs 
 
 which dye the 'wool in a 
 
 neutral hath. 
 
 Violet. 
 
 Diamine Heliotrope G, B, I Diamine Violet N pat, 
 
 pat. Oxy Diamine Violet B pat. 
 
 Union Black, pat. 
 Union Black S, P, BG pat. 
 Oxy Diamine Black A, D, AM, 
 FFC, JEI, JB, JWpat. 
 
 Black. 
 
 Oxy Diamine Black S000 
 pat, 
 
 Formyl Violet S4B, 6B, 10 B 
 pat, 
 Alkaline Violet CA pat, 
 
 Naphtylamine Black D, 4B, 
 6B pat, 
 Naphtol Blue Black pat. 
 
 Diamine Colours which dye the wool deeper than the 
 cotton: Diamine Scarlet B, 3B pat., and Cotton Brown N. 
 
 Directions for Dyeing in Neutral Baths. 
 
 The Diamine Colours are dyed either by themselves 
 or in combination with the above named wool colours in 
 a neutral bath containing 1 lb of Glauber's salt per 10 
 gallons liquor for pale, and 2 lbs for dark, shades. It 
 should be observed that the previously cleaned goods 
 retain no alkali (soda or ammonia) which may act detri- 
 mentally to the wool in the hot neutral bath. 
 
 The goods are dyed near, or just at, the boil accord- 
 ing to prevailing circumstances, the wool dyeing better 
 at a high, and the cotton better at a lower, temperature; 
 the cotton can thus be dyed in fuller shades. It is 
 therefore advisable in the majority of cases to enter 
 the goods lukewarm, raise the bath gradually to the boil 
 and allow it to cool down towards the finish. 
 
 [f the original colours of the goods, or the special 
 behaviour of the Diamine Colours employed, necessitate 
 a modification of the shade of the wool, this is effected 
 wiili the above named wool dyes at a raised temperature. 
 
 If Alkaline Blue !><• used at the same time, some 
 borax or soda ash should ho added to the dye-bath and 
 the goods raised with acids after dyeing; boiling must 
 !•<• avoided. 
 
with Diamine Colours and Wool Colours. 
 
 25 
 
 To illustrate standard shades of our whole range of 
 Diamine Colours would too far exceed the compass of 
 this hook; we would therefore refer all interested parties 
 to our special pattern card No 2140 and here confine 
 ourselves to a few shades frequently asked for on union 
 
 0,05% Diamine Rose GD pat. 
 0,050/o Rosazeine 13. 
 
 0,1 o/ Diamine Sky Blue FF pat. 
 0,02°/o Alkaline Blue 6B. 
 
 i, ion Blue FN pat. 
 
 0.2 °o Diamine Dark Blue B pat. 
 Diamine Catechine B pat. 
 Formjl Blue B pat. 
 
 2 °/o Oxy Diamine Yellow GG 
 0,5°/o Brilliant Milling Green B 
 topped with 
 Solid Green erj Bi extra. 
 
 2 °/o Diamine Scarlet B pat. 
 0,5 o/o Diamine Red -iB. 
 
 102 
 
 2 % Diamine Catechine G pat. 
 0,2 °/o Lanacyl Blue R pat. 
 
 0,4 °/o Diamine Violet N pat. 
 0,6 °/o Oxy Diamine Blue G 
 0,35 °/o Formyl Violet S4B pat. 
 
 topped with 
 0,3 o/o Methyl Violet B No 1. 
 
 106 
 
 4 °/o Union Brown TD pat. 
 
 2* 
 
26 
 
 Dyeing of Wool and Unions in Neutral Baths 
 
 2,5 °/o Diamineral Blue R pat 
 0,5 % Naphtol Blue Black pat. 
 0,750/o Formyl Violet S4B pat. 
 
 3,2% Diamine Green B pat. 
 1,8 0/0 Diamine Black BH pat. 
 0,5 0/0 Diamine Fast Yellow B 
 1 °/o Brilliant Milling Green B 
 0,4% Naphtol Blue Black pat. 
 
 113* 
 
 4,5% O.vy Diamine Black J W pat, 
 
 0,5% Formyl Violet S4B pal 
 
 1 5% Diamine Green B pat. 
 
 1 % Naphtylamine Black X2B pat. 
 
 2,5 tyo Diamine Bordeaux B pat. 
 1 0/0 Diamine Red 10 B pat. 
 0,5 % Diamine Brown M pat. 
 0,150/o Formyl Violet S4B pat. 
 
 110 
 
 2,5 % Diamine Brown M pat 
 
 1 % Diamine Brown R 
 
 0,7 0/0 Oxy Diamine Black JE I pat. 
 
 1 % Diamine Fast Yellow B 
 
 0,15 0/o Naphtol Blue Black pat. 
 
 3 % Diamine Fast Yellow B 
 
 1 % Diamine Brown 3G pat. 
 
 2 0/0 Diamine Black HW pat. 
 1 0/0 Indian Yellow G 
 0,250/o Naphtol Blue Black pat. 
 
 112 
 
 3 0/0 Diamine Bordeaux BR pat. 
 0,150/o Formyl Violet S4B pat. 
 0,5 % Diamine Gatechine G pat 
 
 5,5% Union Black S pat. 
 0,5% Diumine Green B pat. 
 
 * By adding some Diumine Green in dyeing blaoks, very 
 full shades oan be produced and multi-coloured goods are well 
 eovered mid turned out uniform in shade. The choice of the 
 black Diamine Colour is quite immaterial; if the wool remains 
 too light, the bath should be boiled up again, or a further 
 addition of Naphtylamine Black should be made. 
 
 H". -it all practicable, all neutral-dyed goods should 
 be cooled well in the open air before rinsing them in cold 
 water, [f taken straight from the hoi dye-bath into cold 
 
-with Diamine Colours ami Wool Colours. 27 
 
 water, it may happen that the rinsing water will become 
 too warm and cause the cotton to be stripped. 
 
 In any case it is advisable to add some acetic acid 
 to the last rinsing water in order to give the goods a firm 
 handle; some acetic acid may also be added to the finish- 
 
 If in certain cases the goods dyed with Diamine 
 Colours only should not be found bright enough, they 
 may be topped in a fresh bath, either hot or cold, with 
 basic dyestuffs with the addition of some acetic acid. 
 It should be pointed out that in such case the wool ought 
 not to be dyed too heavy or too bright a shade in the 
 Diamine Colour bath, as it always takes up some more 
 dye during the topping process, depending on the tempera- 
 ture at which this is carried out. 
 
 D) Dyeing with Basic Dyestuffs. 
 
 In consequence of their inadequate fastness to light, 
 the basic dyestuffs are only used on wool for dyeing 
 very bright shades of crimson, violet, green and yellow. 
 Although they are chiefly dyed in neutral baths, they 
 behave quite differently to the above named Diamine 
 Colours, and the two classes should on no account be 
 dyed together in one bath. As pointed out before, they are 
 frequently also applied on unions for brightening dyeings 
 produced with Diamine Colours, in which case they are 
 dyed in a fresh bath with addition of some acetic acid. 
 
 Dyestuffs chiefly used for wool are the following: 
 For Pink, Crimson and Dark Red. 
 
 Magenta, Cerise, Russian Red, Geranium, Aniline 
 Brown. 
 
 For Yellow, Orange and Brown. 
 
 Thioflavine T pat., Chrysoidine, Bismarck Brown. 
 
28 The Dyeing of Wool and Unions -with Basic Dyestuffs. 
 
 For Green. 
 
 Brilliant Green and Solid Green, shaded if required 
 with Thioflavine T pat. 
 
 For Violet. 
 
 All the brands of Methyl Violet from R to 6B. 
 
 1% Thioflavine T pat 
 
 l°/o Brilliant Green cryst. 
 
 Directions for Dyeing Basic Dyestuffs. 
 
 Magenta, Cerise, Russian Red, Geranium, Aniline 
 Brown are dyed with 10o/ Glauber's salt; the goods are 
 entered warm, the liquor is brought to the boil and finally 
 allowed to cool down as far as possible. 
 
 Chrysoi'dine and Bismarck Brown are dyed similarly, 
 but with the addition of lOo/o Glauber's salt and 50/ alum. 
 
 Thioflavine T is best dyed with 10% Glauber's salt 
 and 50/0 acetic acid or 10 0/0 bisulphite of soda. 
 
 Brilliant Green and Solid Green are dyed either with 
 10<y Glauber's salt und 5o/o acetic acid, or on a mordant 
 of 150/o sodium hyposulphite and 5<Vo acetic acid. This 
 mordant is besi prepared in a wooden vessel and applied 
 for one hour nt 160 to 175° P., after which the goods 
 are weU rinsed and dyed. 
 
 When working according to (his method, the cotton 
 is I' It undyed. Particulars regarding the dyeing of cotton 
 in unions by means of basic dyestuffs are to be found 
 on pages 59 and 60 treating on the dyeing of cotton. 
 
II. The Dyeing of Silk. 
 
 Silk garments are most frequently sent for re-dyeing 
 with the stitches removed and only rarely in their whole 
 state, unless they be made of very soft material such as 
 foulard or crepe ; high class and heavier qualities are 
 usually unstitched before re-dyeing. 
 
 In view of the comparatively high value of the 
 material, it must be treated most carefully during the 
 dyeing process in order to save it from crimps and 
 chafes which would render it useless; the so-called 
 "dyeing a ressort", in which the goods are dyed whilst 
 being stretched on a frame, is therefore to be recommended. 
 
 For the dyeing of pure silk goods, acid dyestuffs 
 are chiefly used, basic dyestuffs being only occasionally 
 employed; goods which are difficult to penetrate and 
 required t • be fast to washing and water, may also be 
 advantageously dyed with Diamine Colours. 
 
 Preparation for Dyeing. 
 
 The goods to be dyed are generally cleaned and 
 stripped with very weakly alkaline hot water containing 
 soda carbonate or ammonia, or with strong, boiling soap 
 liquors containing from 1 — 2 lbs soap per 10 gallons. 
 
 Soap as Buch does not injure the silk; frequently, 
 
 however, silk weighted immoderately has to be dyed, which 
 
 tenders during the treatment; the testing as to strength 
 
 of a small portion of the goods to be dyed cannot there- 
 
 too strongly recommended. This is generally 
 
 -mall cutting of the dry material in 
 
30 
 
 The Dyeing of Silk in Acid Baths. 
 
 the direction of both the warp and the weft, pressing the 
 crease hard with the finger nail or a flat iron, and trying 
 its strength by stretching and pulling; if it breaks in the 
 creases, very great caution must be exercised in dyeing. 
 The test is still more thorough if the material be previously 
 boiled for some time in a soap solution. 
 
 Damages due to wear and exposure of silken material 
 may be remedied comparatively easily by stripping the 
 ground colour, and the subsequent re-dyeing covers any 
 defects; less attention need therefore be paid with silk 
 than with wool to the selection of levelling dyestuffs, 
 and nearly any colouring matter can be employed on silk, 
 although a preference is generally given to dyeing in 
 acid baths. 
 
 A) Dyeing in Acid Baths. 
 
 Specially suitable dyestuffs for 
 Pink, Red and Claret. 
 
 For bright pinks the various Eosines, viz: 
 Eosine GGF, 3G, Erythrosine B, D, Phloxine, Rose 
 Bengale, besides which Rosazeine B and 13 and Iris- 
 amine G can be recommended. 
 
 119 
 
 120 
 
 O,50/o Eosine GGF. 
 
 (»,.")"'() Rose IJrn'.'.lr extra N. 
 
 For bright scarlets the preference lies chiefly 
 will, the Brilliant Croceines R, B, 215, M, 3B, 5B, 7B, 
 !M; and Crqcei'ne AZ; Brilliant Cochineal 2R and 4R, 
 
The Dyeing of Silk in Acid Eaths. 
 
 31 
 
 Scarlet EC, Brilliant Scarlet 4R and Crystal Scarlet 6R 
 are also used. 
 
 Brilliant Croeeine 5B. 
 
 5° o Croceine AZ. 
 
 For deeper, bluish reds: Roccelline, Azo Ru- 
 bineA, Azo Red A, Azo Orseffle 2B, Brilliant Orseille C, 
 Amaranth B. Naphtol Red C, EB, Bordeaux BL, Lana- 
 fuchsine SB. SG. 
 
 124 
 
 5°/o Roccelliue. 
 
 6% Azo Rubine A. 
 
 7°o Amaranth B. 
 
 7°o Bordeaux BL 
 
 For claret shades the four last named red dye- 
 stuffs can !■•• used along with some blue etc. for shading 
 or darkening, for which purpose the various brands of 
 
 nolo, Pormyl Violet or Cyanole Green will be found 
 ble. 
 
 Uine 
 
 15 pat. 
 
 7 °/o Bordeaux BL 
 0,5% Cyanole «\tra pat. 
 'range extra. 
 
32 The Dyeing of Silk in Acid Baths. 
 
 Pale Blue, Blue, Peacock, Navy and Dark Blue. 
 
 For pale blue and blue the following brands are 
 useful: Cyanole extra, FF, 2B, the various brands of 
 Soluble Blues viz: Blue FS, BS, RS, Formyl Blue B, 
 Indigo Blue N, SGN, and further the Alkaline Blues. 
 
 129 
 
 0,3 °/o Cyanole extra pat. 
 
 0,2 o/o Alkaline Blue 3B. 
 
 3,5 °/o Formyl Blue B pat. 
 
 For peacock, navy and dark blue the same 
 dyestuffs may be used if suitably shaded or darkened 
 with Cyanole Green, Acid Green, Naphtol Blue Black, 
 Naphtol Black, Naphtylamine Black 4B, 6B, according 
 to requirements; very fine and bright navies can besides 
 be obtained with Solid Blue R and 3R. For peacock, 
 navy and dark blue, Alkaline Blues are most generally 
 used for bottoming in a separate bath, and shaded with 
 Alkali Violet if intended for dark blue. 
 
 :,<>/„ Solid Bine R 
 
 »°/o Solid Blue SB. 
 
The Dyeing of Silk in Acid Baths. 
 
 33 
 
 3°'o Formyl Blue B pat. 
 2<>/o Naphtol Blue Black pat. 
 
 6% Indigo Blue SGN pat. 
 30/o Solid Blue E. 
 
 For flattening very deep shades ofblue, Indian 
 Yellow, Orange, or one of the afore mentioned reds can 
 be used. 
 
 Yellow 
 
 and Orange. 
 
 Very pure yellows may be obtained with Naphtol 
 Yellow S or Acid Yellow AT, richer but redder shades 
 with Indian Yellow G, R, Tropaeoline G and 00. For 
 pure orange shades the Orange extra, R and GG brands 
 and also Croceine Orange EN are employed. 
 
 138 
 
 ■i-1 Yellow AT. 
 
 3°/o Indian Yellow G. 
 
 141 
 
 3> Tropaeoline 00. 
 
 4°/o Orange extra. 
 
 The yellow and orange dyestuffs are also 
 extensively used for shading modes, olives, greens 
 and browns. 
 
 Green, Dark Green and Olive. 
 
 Very bright greens can be produced with Acid 
 lc. B and 5G, shaded with yellow if 
 required. 
 
34 
 
 The Dyeing of Silk in Acid Baths. 
 
 142 
 
 5% Acid Green extra cone. 
 
 l°/o Acid Green extra cone. 
 2°/o Acid Yellow AT. 
 
 For dark greens, useful dyestuffs besides the 
 Acid Greens are: Fast Acid Green B, BN, Cyanole 
 Green B, 6G, S, shaded with Solid Blue R or Naphtol 
 Blue Black and Indian Yellow G or Acid Yellow AT. 
 
 144 
 
 145 
 
 50/o Fast Acid Green BN pat. 
 
 5°/o Cyanole Green 6G. 
 
 146 
 
 147 
 
 !°/o Acid Green extra cone. 
 3% Solid Blue R 
 l°/o Indian Yellow G. 
 
 40/o Acid Green extra cone. 
 2«/o Tropaeoline 00 
 4°/o Orange extra. 
 
 2,5 °/o Cyanole Green B 
 
 1 °/o Indian Yellow G 
 
 2 o/o Acid Brown 1). 
 
 Olive shades are produced in a similar way 
 and shaded with Orange extra or some red dyestufl's. 
 
 . Mode and Brown. 
 
 For greys, the various brands of Induline, Nigro- 
 sine and Aniline Grey are applicable, which may be 
 
The Dyeing of Silk in Acid Baths. 
 
 35 
 
 shaded as desired with Orange, Indian Yellow or 
 Lanafuehsine. 
 
 150 
 
 0,5 % Aniline Grey R. 
 
 0,25 % Nigrosine. 
 
 For mode shades, Cyanole or Cyanole Green, 
 combined with the above named yellow and red dyes, 
 may be used in place of Induline or Nigrosine. 
 
 0,3 % Cyanole Green B 
 
 0,15% Orange extra 
 
 0.1 °o Lanafuehsine S G. 
 
 0,4 °/o Cyanole Green B 
 0,2 % Orange extra 
 0,15°/o Lanafuehsine S G. 
 
 h,12°o Cyanole extra pat. 
 o,6°o Orange GG 
 ii.^o Lanafuehsine S G. 
 
 0,H °/o Cyanole extra pat. 
 0,3 °/o Orange extra 
 0,2% Lanafuehsine S G. 
 
 154 
 
 Pale shades of brown can be obtained in the 
 same manner as mode shades, or with addition of Acid 
 Brown D; for deeper shades the Cyanole can be re- 
 placed by Solid Blue R or Naphtol Blue Black. 
 
 Void Brown D. 
 
 4 % Acid Brown D 
 
 2 % Roccelline 
 
 (1,4% Cyanole extra pat. 
 
 156 
 
36 
 
 The Dyeing of Silk in Acid Baths. 
 
 5 °/o Acid Brown D 
 
 l,2<>/o Eoccelline 
 
 1 °/o Cyanole extra pat. 
 
 5°/o Acid Brown D 
 20/o Solid Blue R. 
 
 Purple and Prune. 
 
 For pale and bright violet shades, either the 
 Formyl Violet brands or else Alkali Violet C are used; 
 dark shades and also prunes are dyed with the same 
 colours and saddened with Solid Blue R or Cyanole, 
 Cyanole Green and Azo Red, Roccelline or Lanafuchsine. 
 
 30/0 Formyl Violet S4B pat. 
 
 2,50/o Formyl Violet S4B pat. 
 2 o/ Roccelline. 
 
 Black. 
 
 For bracks, the Naphtylamine Blacks 4B and 6B 
 are specially well suited, besides which, Naphtylamine 
 Black D, R, 4B, 6B, or Naphtyl Blue Black N shaded 
 with Acid Green may also be used; the saddening is 
 done with Indian Yellow or Orange. 
 
 1(12 
 
 10°/o Naphtylamine Black 4B pat. 10°/o Nuphtylamino Black R pat. 
 
 1 0/0 Indian Yellow G. 
 
 Directions for Dyeing in Acid 'Baths. 
 
 The afore named acid dyestuffs are all dyed at a 
 temperature of 100 to 17.V 1 p. in a bath slightly acidulated 
 with sulphuric ;i<id: exceptions are the Eosines and 
 
The Dyeing of Silk in Acid Baths. 37 
 
 Naphtylamine Blacks, which must be dyed with acetic 
 acid. It cannot be too strongly emphasized that in silk 
 dyeing too great an excess of acid must be avoided, as 
 it may easily cause uneven dyeings in the first instance, 
 and secondly prevent a good penetration, which is for 
 most goods a necessity: the baths must have only 
 a weakly acid reaction. Boiled-off liquors killed with 
 acid render quite excellent service; such soap liquors 
 have a similar mission in silk-dyeing as Glauber's salt 
 in wool-dyeing; they neutralize acids and act very 
 favourably upon the quality of the goods by reason of 
 the fat and silk gum they contain; they should therefore 
 be used wherever obtainable. If boiled-off liquors are 
 not available, substitutes will serve equally as well and 
 may be prepared according to the following directions: 
 2 lbs soap, 6 oz glue or gelatine, l 1 / 2 oz olive oil and 3 oz 
 common salt are well boiled in 10 gallons of water. The 
 solution is applied just like ordinary boiled-off liquor; 
 the killing with such acids as acetic or sulphuric acid 
 must take place very gradually and under constant 
 stirring. 
 
 Alkaline Blue is dyed at the boil with the addition 
 of 1 o/o soda ash and 5o/ soap, rinsing first and afterwards 
 raising in a fresh bath with sulphuric acid. * 
 
 B) Dyeing with Diamine Colours. 
 
 Quite a number of Diamine Colours are also well appli- 
 cable to silk and are chiefly used for producing dyeings 
 fast to water and washing; they are dyed in a neutral 
 bath of boiled-off liquor or in a bath killed with acetic acid; 
 an excess of acid must be strictly avoided. When dyeing 
 goods which are not easily penetrated, it is best to dye 
 without af-id until good penetration has been effected; 
 only then a little acid may be added. 
 
The Dyeing of Silk with Diamine Colours. 
 
 The following Diamine 
 Diamine Rose GD, BD pat. 
 Diamine Scarlet B, 3B pat. 
 Diamine Fast Red F pat. 
 Diamine Bordeaux S pat. 
 Diamine Violet N pat. 
 Diamine Brown 3 G, M pat. 
 
 Colours are suitable: 
 Diamine Green B, G pat. 
 Diamine Black HW, BH pat. 
 Diamine Dark Blue B pat. 
 Diamine Fast Yellow B, F F pat. 
 Diamine Yellow CP 
 Diamine Gold pat. 
 
 Below are a few dyeings on silk of some of the most 
 important Diamine Colours: 
 
 164 
 
 3°/o Diamine Yellow CP. 
 
 4°/o Diamine Scarlet 3B pat. 
 
 166 
 
 4°/o Diamine Violet N pat. 3°/o Diamine Brown 3G pat. 
 
 168 
 
 4°/o Diamine Dark Blue B pat. 4°/o Diamine Green B pat. 
 
 C) Dyeing with Basic Dyestuffs. 
 
 In some cases, and for specially bright or brilliant 
 
 Bhades, basic dyestuffs also are applied on silk. 
 
 The following amongst others are particularly well 
 suited : 
 
 Magenta Brilliant Green 
 
 Safranine Solid Green 
 
 Methyl Violet Thioflavine T. 
 
The Dyeing of Silk with Basic Dyestuffs. 
 
 39 
 
 0,20/o Safranine S No 150. 2°/o Magenta la. large cryst. 
 
 20/o Brilliant Green cryst. extra. 10/ Methyl Violet E No I. 
 
 174 
 
 0,5 d /o Irisamine G. 
 
 3°/o Thioflavine T pat. 
 
 For very pale shades these dyestuffs are applied in 
 a hot soap bath with a good lather; medium and dark 
 shades are dyed in a boiled-off liquor acidulated with 
 acetic acid. An excess of acetic acid rather facilitates a 
 good penetration. 
 
 The above directions apply to the dyeing of pure 
 silk goods only; if in one case or another silk and cotton 
 mixed goods are to be dyed according to this method, 
 the cotton will have to be dyed subsequently in ano- 
 ther bath. Directions for this process are given on 
 pages 59—60. 
 
III. The Dyeing of Satin. 
 
 (Silk and Cotton.) 
 
 For dyeing goods composed of silk and cotton, the 
 one-bath process, as the method most extensively used 
 with Diamine Colours, deserves to be mentioned, which 
 is much simplier than the old and complicated methods 
 of dyeing this material. The preparation of the silk warp 
 goods is the same as for pure silk; the best for the 
 purpose is boiling off with soap. 
 
 Generally speaking, the same colouring matters as 
 for union goods are used for dyeing silk warps (see 
 pages 23—24), but the sha'ding with wool dyes in the 
 same bath is omitted. Instead of this they are shaded 
 in a fresh bath with acid or basic dyestuffs if the 
 desired tone has not already been obtained with Diamine 
 Colours, and either the silk or the cotton, or both together 
 may be brought to shade simultaneously, or one after the 
 other. 
 
 Directions for Dyeing Satin with Diamine Colours. 
 
 The dyeing is done for one hour in a boiling bath 
 containing about 3 to 5 oz soap, 3 /4 oz soda ash or borax, 
 1 -' t" 1 lb Glauber's salt per 10 gallons. Boiling or raising 
 tli'' temperature, as tin- case may be, causes the silk to 
 be dyed a darker shade, whilst a lower temperature 
 renders the cotton darker: it is in any case of advantage 
 t<> keep tin- cotton a little darker than the silk, as the 
 latter deepens in shade in the subsequeni lopping hath. 
 An increase of Glauber's salt above the staled quantity 
 
 has also the effecl Of dyeing the cotton deeper. 
 
The Dyeing of Satin. 
 
 4L 
 
 Directions for Topping Silk Warp dyed with 
 Diamine Colours. 
 
 For topping goods dyed as above, both acid and basic 
 dyestuffs are used. The former are used for shading 
 the silk only, the latter dye both silk and wool; the dyes 
 of both groups are applied in a bath acidulated with 10 
 to 15% acetic acid and can be used simultaneously in 
 one and the same bath according to requirements. The 
 topping is done either cold or lukewarm; by raising the 
 temperature the silk is tinted to a greater extent. 
 
 The acetic acid slightly dulls the shade of some 
 Diamine Colours such as Diamine Red 4B, 5B, 10 B y 
 Diamine Bordeaux B, Diamine Brown R, V, which 
 however disappears on subsequent thorough rinsing. 
 
 Below we give some patterns of the ordinary standard 
 shades on silk warps and refer for details of dyeing silk 
 warps to our pamphlet, "The Diamine Colours on Half- 
 Silk". 
 
 <i.2 °o Diamine Sky Blue pat. 
 Ukaline Blue OB. 
 
 176 
 
 0,l°/o Diamine Rose GD pat. 
 topped with 
 Irisamine G pat. 
 
 iamine Paet Yellow B pat. 
 ichine B pat. 
 0,l°/o Diamine Black HW pat. 
 
 178 
 
 0,8 " o Diamine Brown 3G pat. 
 1,5 °/o Diamine Fast Yellow A 
 2 °/o Diamine Black HW pat. 
 topped with 
 
 Brilliant Green crjst. extra. 
 
 Chryso'idine cryst. 
 
 Cvanole extra pat. 
 
42 
 
 The Dyeing of Satin. 
 
 179 
 
 2,5 o/o Diamine Blue BX pat. 
 1 o/o Union Black S pat. 
 0,25<>/o Alkaline Blue 3B 
 topped with 
 
 New Methylene Blue N pat. 
 
 Indigo Blue N pat. 
 
 ^►."•^.■*^*^^^^^.' l * t 
 
 180 
 
 2 °/o Diamine Orange G 
 0,1 °/o Diamine Brown B pat. 
 topped with 
 New Pkosphine G pat. 
 
 0,25% Diamine Grey G pat. 
 0,05% Diamine Brown M pat. 
 topped with 
 Aniline Grey B. 
 
 182 
 
 3 °/o Diamine Scarlet B pat. 
 0,5% Diamine Orange D. 
 
 0,()°/o Diamine Violet N pat. 2,5 °/o Diamine Brown M pat. 
 
 0,3% Diamine Brilliant Blue G pat. 1,5% Diamine Fast Yellow B pat. 
 topped with 1,2 °/o Oxy Diamine Black JE pat. 
 
 Methyl Violet B No 1. topped with 
 
 Bismarck Brown FF 
 Sai'raninc S No 150. 
 
 3,50/0 Diamine Bordeaux B pat. 
 
 11..," ,, I in, mmr ( >rango l> 
 i'.,"<, Diamine Brown M pat. 
 
 topped with 
 
 Magenta la. Large oryst. 
 
 L86 
 
 3 0/0 Diamine (Jreen B pat. 
 l,(i% Oxy Diamine Black SO00 pat. 
 0,50/0 Diamine Fast Yellow A 
 topped with 
 
 Brilliant Green cryst. extra 
 
 Cyanole oxtra pat. 
 
The Dyeing of Satin. 
 
 3 °/o Diamine Steel Blue L pat. 
 2 o/ Diamine Black BH pat. 
 0,lo/o Alkaline Blue 3B 
 topped with 
 
 Indigo Blue N pat. 
 
 Methyl Indone B pat. 
 
 1S9 
 
 1SS 
 
 2 % Diamine Orange D 
 1,5 °/o Diamine Brown 3G pat. 
 topped with 
 
 Bismarck Brown FF 
 
 Safranine S 150. 
 
 On iron mordant: 
 
 7 Oo Union Blnck S pat 4 °o Oxy Diamine Black S 000 pat. 
 
 1 °o Diamine Green B pat. 0,5% Diamine Fast Yellow A 
 
 0,5°/o Diamine Fast Yellow B pat. 6 °/o Extract of logwood. 
 
 topped with 
 3 °o Naphtylamine Black -IB pat. 
 
 *If for certain reasons the application of iron-logwood- 
 black be desired on satin goods, the following recipe may 
 be recommended as yielding good results: 
 
 The goods are mordanted with nitrate of iron of 
 32° Tw. 5 well rinsed, bottomed in a hot bath with 3 o/ 
 fustic extract, and dyed at about 175° F. in a fresh bath 
 with 
 
 4—5",, X y Diamine Black S 000 pat. 
 
 V-'% Diamine Fast Yellow A 
 4— 8o/ logwood extract 
 
 with addition of V 2 lb 
 
 soap and t lb Glauber's 
 
 salt per 10 gallons 
 
 liquor. 
 
 
I\ . The Dyeing of Fabrics composed 
 of Wool and Silk. 
 
 The silk: interwoven in these fabrics neeessu 
 special care in the dyeing so that it is not injured by 
 ressure or friction. The dyeing may he done in either 
 acid or neutral baths, the selection depending upon the 
 ground colour and the condition of the fabric to be dyed. 
 The cleaning of thr _ Is is best done in a moderately 
 hot soap liquor. 
 
 A i Dyeing in Acid Bath?. 
 
 Wool having altogether a greater affinity for acid 
 
 aan silk, a narro - uon must be made 
 
 amongst the wool dy staffs given on pages 5 — 14. only 
 
 _ -eful which show a tendency to dye both 
 
 - as uniform a- ssible and at the same time - - 
 
 with regard to dyeing level. The following dyestuffs 
 
 ommend from experience as dyeing both wool 
 
 and silk to the same shade or nearly so, and also e 
 
 ied: 
 
 . Brilliant Orseille C M _ 
 
 Krv sine B, 1 AZ. 
 
 . - Blue R, < 
 
 I 
 
The Dyeing of Fabrics composed of Wool and Silk in Acid Baths. 45 
 
 For Yellow and Orange : 
 
 Indian Yellow G. R. Orange extra. Tropaeoline 00. 
 
 For Green: 
 
 Cyanole Green B. 6G. Acid Green extra cone, 
 Fast Acid Green BX. 
 
 For Violet: 
 
 Acid Violet 6BC, Forniyi Violet S4B. 6B pat 
 
 For Black: 
 
 Naphtylamine Black 4B, 6B pat.. Gloria Black B. 
 
 By combinations of suitable dyestuffs any shade can 
 be produced without the least difficulty. 
 
 Direct - in A::i E = :"~8. 
 
 According t«» the depth of shade to be dyed, the 
 
 - ah is charged with 5 — 15 Oo bisulphate of soda. 
 5 — 1 5 ° o Glauber's salt and the dyestuff required: the 
 goods art- entered at 140" F.. the bath brought slowly to 
 the boil, which should not however be continued beyond 
 
 ;r: after this time the bath is allowed to cool down 
 to 120" P., the _ s then treated for another 1 ! 2 hour 
 
 - . lifted, rinsed, and dried. Prolonged boiling would 
 r th«* wool too heavy in shade: in a hot or slowly 
 
 cooling bath the silk becomes better covered. 
 
 Very excellent results may also be obtained by adding 
 only one half of the required quantity of colouring matter 
 at the beginning, entering the goods and boiling 
 
 it: after having lifted the fabrics, the second half 
 
 of th»- dye is added, and the bath cooled off to some 
 
 - are then re-entered and worked for 
 
 anoth- • hour without any further heating. 
 
 method - specially good results with dark 
 
 shades and bli 
 
46 The Dyeing of Fabrics composed of Wool and Silk 
 
 Erythrosine, Rosazeine 13. Naphtylamine Black 4B 
 and 6B and Gloria Black B, are dyed with 5 — 10o/o acetic 
 acid and 10o/o Glauber's salt, instead of with bisulphate 
 of soda and Glauber's salt. 
 
 An additional help to give the silk sufficient body 
 (also in the case of prolonged boiling) is the use of basic 
 dyestuffs in an acid bath: even small quantities are 
 effective in helping to cover the silk satisfactorily. 
 
 Particularly suitable are the following basic dyestuffs : 
 
 Magenta Solid Green 
 
 Tannin Heliotrope Thioflavine T pat. 
 
 Safranine Tannin Orange R pat. 
 
 Xew Methylene Blue pat, Bismarck Brown. 
 Indazine M pat. 
 
 These dyestuffs should only be applied in small 
 quantities and best towards the finish, otherwise the goods 
 are apt to rub off; they may however also be used for 
 topping the silk in a fresh lukewarm bath acidulated with 
 acetic acid, provided the wool has not already been dyed 
 too deep, as it will still take up part of the dyestuff. 
 
 B) Dyeing in Neutral Baths with Diamine Colours. 
 
 This method is chiefly intended for closely woven 
 fabrics which are hard to penetrate, for which those 
 Diamine Colours are principally used which dye both 
 
 wool and silk as uniform as possible. 
 
 These dyestuffs are: 
 
 Diamine Rose BD, GD pat, Diamine Past Yellow B pat. 
 Diamine Scarlet B, 3B pat. Diamine Gold pat. 
 Diamine Bordeaux S pat. Diamine Yellow CP 
 
in Neutral Baths with Diamine Colours. 47 
 
 Thiollavine S pat. Diamine Green G. B pat. 
 
 Diamine Brown M,B, 3 G pat. Diamine Dark Blue B pat. 
 
 Oxy Diamine Brown G Diamine Steel Blue L pat. 
 
 Diamineral Brown G pat. Diamine Black HW pat. 
 
 Diamine Blue 3R, RW pat. Union Black S pat. 
 
 Diamine Brilliant Blue G pat. Diaminogene extra pat. 
 Diamine Sky Blue FP pat. 
 
 Directions for Dyeing Diamine Colours in 
 Neutral Baths. 
 
 The bath is charged with 1 to 2 lbs Glauber's salt 
 per 10 gallons, and. after the goods have been entered at 
 140° P., brought to the boil, and kept gently boiling for 
 i hour. If the boiling be too severe it causes the 
 wool to get too dark, whilst silk dyes easier in a cooling 
 bath; if the wool does not dye sufficiently well, some 
 acetic acid (1—20/6) must be added. This addition is 
 also to be recomended for dyeing Diamine Sky Blue, 
 Diamine Brilliant Blue and Diamine Blue 3R; Union 
 Black S is best dyed with an addition of 1 — 2 o/o borax 
 (apart from the prescribed quantity of Glauber's salt). 
 
 It will only in very rare instances be necessary to 
 top the silk: in the case of black this is best achieved 
 with Xaphtylamine Black 4B in a fresh lukewarm bath 
 acidulated with acetic acid. 
 
 uetimes (chiefly in the case of pale shades), 
 
 - composed of wool and silk may also be dyed in 
 
 alkaline baths, the additions being soap and phosphate 
 
 of soda or borax, say 3 — 4 oz each per 10 gallons of 
 
 dye-liquor. 
 
 The following dyestuffs are adapted for this purpose: 
 Alkaline Blu.- Indian Yellow G, R 
 
 Alkaline Violet C pat. Rosazei'ne 13 
 
 Formyl Violet S4B pat. 
 Alter dyeing, the goods are rinsed and raised in an 
 acid bath. 
 
£B Eie _ -eir^ :■: :;:::; : — r:se£ :: ::. and 5 Ik 
 
 Below ~t ^: t s --' eral patterns on goods eom- 
 
 - I A wool and silk, and dyed according to directions 
 
 given abc~ Farther details on the dyeing of fabrics 
 
 composed of wool and silk will be found in onr pamphlet- 
 
 19JK which is at the disposal of customer 5. 
 
 ' ' ■ ? ysAzeme II 
 
 El " ITOS tt£ 1 
 
 -~ ' I './.- Bxfa 
 
 : : : v- .:-- - 
 
 lr : . 
 
 1 - - 7 ■- - - - a - : 
 
 ._ .' • -: - > : '. . pat 
 
 4 9 « Br 
 
 3 
 
 D pat 
 
 But 5: 
 
 Indian Yellow B 
 dm 
 
 .smarck Brown GG 
 I pat. 
 
: 
 
 1 •/» Brilliant Croeeme M< 
 ra pat 
 ^ B 
 
 0,1 •» Bismarck Bnrvn GG 
 
 : 
 
 0,3 ^i Cyanole extra pa*. 
 0.6 •• Tannin Heliotrope. 
 
 : 
 
 -=- 
 
 3 °« Fast Acid Green BX pat. 
 
 
 
 
 pat. 
 
 - 
 
 1 °o Diamine Bnnm M pat. 
 
 - B 
 
 - 
 
 
 - 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 ^ B. 
 
V. The Dyeing of Cotton. 
 
 For the dyeing of cotton the Diamine Colours are 
 of first importance, as nearly any shade can be produced 
 therewith; for some purposes, where brightness is essen- 
 tial, the shades produced with Diamine Colours must be 
 topped with basic dyestuffs, which however in this case dye 
 without any previous mordanting. 
 
 Only in such cases should basic dyestuifs with a 
 tannin-antimony mordant be resorted to where a specially 
 brilliant shade is to be dyed and cannot be obtained 
 with Diamine Colours alone or even with a basic 
 topping. 
 
 Preparation for Dyeing. 
 
 The best way of freeing cotton from impurities is 
 boiling in a weak alkaline bath; very stiffly starched 
 goods must be treated in a lukewarm infusion of malt; 
 strongly faded goods must be bleached or stripped with 
 bleaching powder, and soured off. 
 
 A) Dyeing with Diamine Colours. 
 
 Any of the Diamine Colours can be used for dyeing 
 cotton goodB, but only the best suited are enumerated 
 below. 
 
 Pink, Red. Claret. 
 
 Pot pink, Diamine Rose BD, BG, GD; for red, 
 Diamine Scarlel B, 3B, Diamine Red 4B, 5B, 6B, JOB, 
 
The Dyeing of Cotton with Diamine Colours. 
 
 51 
 
 Diamine Purpurine B, 3B. 6B, Diamine Brilliant Scarlet S, 
 Diamine Fast Red F; for claret, Diamine Bordeaux B, 
 S, or the red brands of Diamine Colours darkened with 
 Oxy Diamine Violet or Diamine Black BH. 
 
 In order to increase their brightness, red and claret 
 shades can be topped with basic dyestuffs; for this 
 purpose, the various brands of Safranine and Magenta 
 are chiefly suitable. 
 
 0,15 °/o Diamine Kose BD pat. 
 
 20S 
 
 0,07 °/o Diamine Rose GD pat. 
 0,06% Diamine Orange G. 
 
 210 
 
 2,o °o Diamine Brilliant Scarlet S. 2,5 °/o Diamiue Red 4B. 
 
 212 
 
 3°/o Diamine Red 10B pat. 3°/o Diamiue Fast Red F pat. 
 
 214 
 
 diamine Bordeaux B pat. 3,5 °/o Diamine Bordeaux B pat. 
 
 topped with 1 o/ Oxy Diamine Violet B pat. 
 
 Safranine S No 150. 
 
 Pale Blue, Blue. Navy. 
 
 For pale blue, Diamine Sky Blue and Diamine 
 Sky Blue PP; for richer blues, Diamine Blue 3B, 
 2B, BX, 3R, BG, RW, Diamine Brilliant Blue G, Oxy 
 Diamine Blue B, G, 3G, 5G, Diamine Fast Blue C, 
 CG, PPB •■ used. 
 
52 
 
 The Dyeing of Cotton with Diamine Colours. 
 
 Dark, greenish blues are obtainable with 
 Diamine Steel Blue L; navies are advantageously 
 produced by darkening the last named blues with Dia- 
 mine Black BH, Diamine Dark Blue B or Oxy Diamine 
 Black, or direct with Diamineral Blue R or Diamine 
 Deep Blue R; specially bright shades can be dyed by 
 topping with New Methylene Blue. 
 
 Blues very fast to washing (replacing Indigo) 
 are obtained with Diaminogene Blue 2B or NA shaded 
 according to desire with Diamine Azo Blue 2R or 
 Diamine Black BH, and diazotised and developed with 
 Beta Naphtol. 
 
 0,15 o/o Diamine Sky Bine F F pat. 2 o/o Diamine Sky Blue FF pat. 
 
 topped with 
 0,4<>/o New Methylene Blue N pat. 
 
 21S 
 
 80/n Diamine Steel Blue L pat. 8°/o Diamineral Blue R pat. 
 
 
 L>24 
 
 :i % Diamineral Blue R pat, 4 °/o Diamine Deep Kino R pat. 
 
 topped with 
 \i. fchj Lene Bine N pat. 
 
The Dyeing of Cotton with Diamine Colours. 
 
 53 
 
 226 
 
 3,5% Diamiueral Blue R pat. 3 °/o Diaminogene Blue 2B pat. 
 
 0,6 °/o Diamine Black BH pat. diazotised and developod with 
 
 Beta Naphtol. 
 
 Yellow. Cre am and Orange. 
 
 For greenish yellows, Thiollavine S and Oxy 
 Diamine Yellow GG are useful; for deeper shades, 
 Diamine Fast Yellow A, B, FF, Diamine Orange G, 
 D, F, Oxy Diamine Orange G, R, for cream, accord- 
 ing to the shade desired, Diamine Fast Yellow B, FF, 
 Diamine Yellow CP and Diamine Orange G or D are 
 chiefly applied, and are much in demand for curtains. 
 
 Thioflavine S pat. 
 
 2% Diamine Yellow CP. 
 
 
 230 
 
 2°/o Diamine Fast Yellow A. 2% Diamine Fast Yellow B pat. 
 
 I'iamine Orange G. 
 
 °/o Diamine Orange F. 
 
 Gi-f-en, Dark Green and Olive. 
 
 Pales shades of green are obtained with 
 Diamine Sky Blue FF shaded with Thioflavine S or 
 Diamine Fast Yellow FF; in order to increase their 
 brightness, they may be topped with either Brilliant 
 en or Solid Green; for dark shades of green, 
 Diamine Green B, G, Diamine Dark Green N are useful. 
 
.34 
 
 The Dyeing of Cotton -with Diamine Colours- 
 
 Olive shades can be obtained with Diamine Green, 
 Diamine Dark Blue B, or Diamine Black HW shaded 
 with Diamine Brown 3G, Diamine Catechine G or Dia- 
 mine Fast Yellow B. 
 
 233 
 
 234 
 
 2,5 °/o Thioflavine S pat. 3 °/o Thioflavine S pat. 
 
 0,25 % Diamine Sky Blue F F pat. 0,1 % Diamine Sky Blue F F pat. 
 
 topped with 
 0,35 °/o Brilliant Green cryst. extra 
 
 235 
 
 3°/o Diamine Green B pat. 
 
 236 
 
 2 % Diamine Green G pat. 
 
 2 % Diamine Fast Yellow B pat. 
 
 0,75 °/o Diamine Brown 3 G pat. 
 
 l,5 0/o Diamine Black HW pat. 
 2,5% Diamine Fast Yellow B pat. 
 1,5 °/o Diamine Catechine G pat. 
 
 Greys and Mode Shades. 
 
 These are best obtained by combining Diamine 
 Dark Blue B, Diaminogene extra or Diamine Fast Blue C 
 with Diamine Catechine B or Diamine Brown 3G, also 
 Diamine Fast Yellow B and Diamine Drange D. 
 
 288 
 
 (i,1 % Diaminogene extra i>"i 
 0,15% Diamine Cateohine B pat. 
 
 23!) 
 
 0,1 "0 Diamine Fast Blue C pat 
 0,076% Diamine Catechine B pat. 
 0,04 ",'0 Diamine Past yellow It pat. 
 
The Dyeing of Cotton with Diamine Colours. 
 
 55 
 
 0,4 °o Diamine Dark Blue B pat. 
 0,4 °o Diamine Catechiae B pat. 
 0,15 °o Diamine Fast Yellow B pat. 
 
 0,6 % Diamine Fast Yellow B pat. 
 0,3 °/o Diamine Catechine B pat. 
 
 242 
 
 >A3 
 
 0,6 °o Diamine Fast Yellow B pat. 0,4 °/o Diamine Fast Yellow B pat. 
 1,25 °b Diamine Orange G 0,5 °/o Diamine Catechine B pat. 
 
 ".1 °o Diamine Fast Blue C pat. 0,05 °o Diamine Dark Blue B pat. 
 
 Brown. 
 
 The principal dyestuifs for brown are: Diamine 
 Catechine B, G, 3G, Oxy Diamine Brown G, Diamine 
 Brown R, B, M, '6G, Cotton Brown A, N, Cotton Dark 
 Brown BB, BM. The browns may be darkened with 
 Diamine Black H\V, BH, or the various brands of Oxy 
 Diamine Black. 
 
 Very good browns fast to washing, and specially 
 serviceable as substitutes for Cutch can be produced 
 with Diamineral Brown G, darkened if necessary with 
 Diamine Brown B or Diamineral Blue R and aftertreated 
 witli bichromate of potash and bluestone. 
 
 245 
 
 2°/o Oxy Diamine Brown G. 
 
 3 °/o Diamineral Brown G pat. 
 
 aftertreated with 
 1,5% bichromate of potash 
 1,5 °/o bluestone 
 3 °/o acetic acid. 
 
 - r ''i Diamine Catechine G pat. 
 
 247 
 
 3 °/o Diamine Brown M pat. 
 
56 
 
 The Dyeing of Cotton with Diamine Colours. 
 
 248 
 
 249 
 
 3°/o Diamine Brown B pat. 
 
 3 o/o Cotton Dark Brown B B pat. 
 
 Violet and Prune. 
 
 For violet, Diamine Violet, Diamine Heliotrope B, 
 G, are used, which are topped with Methyl Violet for 
 very bright shades; for prune, Oxy Diamine Violet B, 
 G, darkened if required with Diamine Black BH or 
 Oxy Diamine Black. 
 
 Very bright shades are obtained by topping with 
 Methyl Violet. 
 
 251 
 
 1 " o Diamine Violet N pat. 
 
 2°/o Diamine Heliotrope G pat. 
 
 252 
 
 253 
 
 0,75% Diamine Violet N pat. 
 
 topped with 
 0,4 o/o Methyl Violet BB 72 No I. 
 
 3°/o Oxy Diamine Violet B pat. 
 
 |{lark. 
 
 For producing a cheap one-bath black, the 
 various Oxy Diamine Blacks will be found useful; 
 specially to be recommended arc: < )\y Diamine Black BG, 
 BM, D, AT, JEI, JW. 
 
 A better black with good fastness to washing 
 and specially suitable for huso can be produced with 
 Diaminogene B, Oxy Diaminogene OB or Diamine 
 Blaci I! II diazotised and developed with Phenylene 
 I liamine. 
 
The Dyeing of Cotton -with Diamine Colours. 
 
 57 
 
 255 
 
 5°/o Oxy Diamine Black BG pat. 5°/o Oxy Diamine Black D pat. 
 
 256 
 
 5 °/o Oxy Diaminogene OB pat. 
 developed with 
 V2°/o Phenylene Diamine 
 Va°/o Beta'Naphtol. 
 
 5°/o Diaminogene B pat. 
 developed with 
 Phenylene Diamine. 
 
 Directions for Dyeing with Diamine Colours. 
 
 Pale shades are best dyed with addition of lo/ soda 
 ash and 5°o soap, medium shades with about 10o/o and 
 dark shades with 20 to 30 o.' Glauber's salt; the dyeing 
 is done at the boil for about one hour, when the bath 
 is allowed to cool off. For dark shades, the bath should 
 be small in volume, and be retained for dyeing future 
 lots. After dyeing, the fabrics are rinsed cold without 
 any other treatment; blacks should be given a warm soap 
 passage with a little oil, or be slightly starched. 
 
 Diazotising and developing, or aftertreatment with 
 bichromate of potash and bluestone are processes applic- 
 able to some dyestull's for producing shades of very good 
 fastness to washing such as are required for linen goods 
 and also hosier}-. 
 
 For both processes the garments are first dyed as 
 
 afore stated, and rinsed. Diaminogene Black for example 
 
 ■\ a- follows: 
 
 The diazotising is done in a cold bath by treating 
 
 Dods lor- ]<) to 15 minutes in a solution of 30/ sodium 
 
 nitrite and 9<>/o hydrochloric acid; for this treatment a 
 
 wooden vessel i- best, suited, care being taken not to 
 
 ids to direct sunlight. Having been quickly 
 
 4* 
 
58 The Dyeing of Cotton with Diamine Colours. 
 
 rinsed in cold water, the garments are developed in a 
 fresh, cold bath for 10 to 15 minutes with 0,6o/oPhenylene 
 Diamine and 2o/q soda ash, and finally soaped hot if 
 found necessary. 
 
 Blue produced with Diaminogene Blue is treated in 
 a similar way, but the developing is done with 1 o/ Beta 
 Naphtol (dissolved in its own weight of caustic soda lye 
 of 77° Tw) instead of Phenylene Diamine. 
 
 The aftertreatment with bichromate of potash and 
 bluestone is done in a hot bath with 1,5 to 2 o/o bichrom- 
 ate of potash, 1,5 to 2 o/o bluestone and 3 o/o acetic acid. 
 
 The topping with basic dyestuffs is always done in 
 a fresh bath with an addition of 5 to 10 o/o acetic acid; 
 it is well to begin cold and to heat the bath gradually to 
 120— 140° P. The basic dyestuffs dye without a mordant 
 on a bottom of Diamine Colours and become fixed fairly 
 fast, provided they are not employed in excessive quan- 
 tities, i. e. not more than 1 /3 — V 4 °f the absorbed quantity 
 of Diamine Colours; they should only be used for bright- 
 ening the shades. 
 
 Should the above directions in certain instances not 
 prove sufficient, all further details will be found in our 
 pattern cards Nos 1974 and 2064. 
 
 B) Dyeing with Basic Dyestuffs. 
 
 These are chiefly useful for producing bright shade's; 
 we recommend the following in the first place: 
 Irisamine G pat. Brilliant Green 
 
 Magenta Solid Green 
 
 Cerise Thioflavine T pat 
 
 Safranine Tannin Orange R pat. 
 
 Tannin Heliotrope ChrysoYdine 
 
 New Methylene Blue pal. Bismarck Brown 
 [ndazine pat, Tannin Brown. 
 
 Methj I Violel 
 
The Dyeing; of Cotton with Basic Dyestuffs. 
 
 59 
 
 Directions for Dyeing with Basic Dyestuffs. 
 
 For very bright shades, the well cleaned goods must 
 be mordanted in a warm bath for several hours with 
 '2 to 5 %. tannin, according to the depth of the shade, 
 followed by a treatment for 7- hour in a cold bath of 
 1 to 3o b antimony salt; after rinsing, the goods are ready 
 for dyeing. Pale shades require weaker tannin baths than 
 dark ones: too strong a mordant may cause insufficient 
 penetration and uneven dyeings. 
 
 Whilst being mordanted and dyed, the goods should 
 on no account come into contact with iron. In place of 
 tannin, from 8 to 4 times the quantity of sumac or sumac 
 extract may be used for less bright shades; for dark 
 shades antimony salt may be replaced by pyrolignite or 
 nitrate of iron which yield both pale and dark grey 
 bottoms suitable for fixing basic dyestuffs. 
 
 The dyeing is done cold; the dye-bath is prepared 
 with 5o acetic acid and 3 to 5<Vb alum, to which the 
 dyestuff, well dissolved, is added in several portions; 
 the goods are quickly turned, the bath not being heated 
 until nearly exhausted, nor made hotter than from 
 120-140" F. 
 
 259 
 
 1.5° o New Methylene Hlue N pat. L >0 /o Irisamine G pat 
 
 ] Violet .ili No 1. 1% Brilliant Green cryst. extra. 
 
i'-e - -f -r ;; r_::;- — : -'i ;:; rs:\i=;- 
 
 '.z. h.i'J.:--7:z~ - : - : :s~?.r:> :::~:. _Z. 
 
 On a sumac— iron mordant : - 
 
 Brilliaat :~zz srysfc extra. _ : : -■:=— ir:^: :?:— - jl^. 
 
 . 
 
 P™ 
 
 If the cotton-dyeing with basic dyestuffs has : 
 done on goods composed of cotton and wool, or cotton 
 and silk, and in which the wool or the silk have already 
 
 iyed with either acid or bas stuffs, the mor- 
 
 danting with tannin or sumac must be done cold, but in 
 stronger liquors than for pure cottons, the rest of the 
 operation being the same as recommended above. The 
 
 g proper has alfi lone in perfectly cold liquors 
 
 in order to prevent the wool or the silk from taking 
 much dye. Should this happen in spite of precautions 
 •ipping with weak hydrochloric 
 
 r a lukewarm bath of soap, or soap bark, ie 
 
 mended. 
 
VI. The Dyeing of Linen and China-Grass. 
 
 The dyeing of linen and China-grass is done according 
 to the same principle and with the same dyestuffs as used 
 for cotton; the linen fibre being harder and more impene- 
 trable than cotton, the greatest care must be taken in 
 boiling before dyeing. Diamine Colours can be made to 
 penetrate well by using only small quantities of Glauber's 
 salt, and basic dyestuffs by mordanting in weak but hot 
 Liquors, and increasing the quantities of either acetic acid 
 or alum added to the dye-bath. 
 
VII. The Dyeing of Jute and Cocoa-nut 
 Fibre. 
 
 Jute and cocoa-nut fibre may be dyed with Diamine 
 Colours according to the same directions as for cotton, 
 or with basic dyestuffs. In the latter case, mordanting 
 with tannin is superfluous, as basic dyestuffs dye direct 
 in a bath of 175 — 212° F. weakly acidulated with acetic 
 acid. For goods which are difficult to penetrate, an 
 increase in the quantity of acetic acid, or gentle boiling, 
 will be necessary. 
 
 There are also a number of acid dyestuffs which are 
 applicable with advantage for dyeing bright reds and 
 blues on jute, amongst which special mention may be 
 made of the Brilliant Crocei'nes and Soluble Blues, all of 
 which are dyed in a boiling hot bath with an addition 
 of 5o/o alum and 5 0/0 Glauber's salt; the baths do not 
 exhaust, and the first bath must therefore be started 
 somewhat stronger. 
 
 As to the treatment before dyeing, it is in most cases 
 sufficient if the goods be boiled in a weak solution of 
 soda ash followed by a souring off with sulphuric acid; 
 should bleaching be necessary, it can be effected by a 
 treatment withEau de Javelle (chloride of soda) and subse- 
 quent souring, or with permanganate and sulphurous acid. 
 
 Below we give a few patterns of dyed jute cloth; 
 other shades are shown in our pattern card No 2022. 
 
 270 
 
 30/0 Brilliant CrooeYm 
 
 <>,:s°/o Itrilliunt (Iri'oii oryx I. extra 
 
 1 °/o CbrysoYdine A <i- 
 
The Dyeing of Jute and Cocoa-nut Fibre. 
 
 03 
 
 272 
 
 1,5 °/o Diamine Green G pat. 1,5 °/o Oxy Diamine Brown G. 
 
 °o Diamine Bordeaux B pat. 1,5% Water Blue R. 
 
 2°/o Diamine Brown M pat. 3,5 °/o Oxy Diamine Black JB pat. 
 
 4°/o Jute Black 1*375- 
 
 ') Patterns marked with an asterisk are dyed on bleached jute. 
 
VIII. The Dyeing of Straw and Chip. 
 
 (Plaits, hats.) 
 
 This material must first of all be scalded for a few 
 hours in boiling water: full directions for dyeing have 
 been given in our card Xo 2254. If hats etc., which are 
 sewn vith cotton, have to be given a further passage for the 
 purpose of covering the stitches, this is done with Diamine 
 Colours in a cold bath with an addition of 1 /2 — 1 lb Glauber's 
 salt per 10 gallons. The dyes suitable in this case will 
 be found mentioned on page 16. 
 
IX. The Dyeing of Feathers. 
 
 Feathers should before dyeing he treated in a luke- 
 warm, alkaline bath, in order to clean them and to strip 
 the original colour, and should then be well rinsed. For 
 dyeing, both acid and basic dyestuffs can be employed. 
 
 A i Dyeing with Acid Dyestuffs. 
 
 For Pink. Red. Claret. 
 
 For pink, the various brands of Eosine. Erythro- 
 sine. Phloxine and Rose Bengale; for red, the various 
 Brilliant Scarlets and Brilliant Crocei'nes, also Roccelline, 
 Xaphtol Red C. EB. Azo Rubine A. Azo Red A, Bor- 
 deaux BL. 
 
 Clarets can be obtained with the last named dyes 
 by darkening them with Formyl Violet. Cyanole or 
 - . Blue R. 
 
 Pah- Blue, Blue. Navy. 
 
 For pale blue and blue the various brands of 
 Alkaline Blue are useful; navies are first of all 
 
 inded with either Alkaline Blue or Alkaline Violet, 
 and darkened with Solid Blue R or Acid Green, or 
 Formyl Violet and Naphtol Blue, or Xaphtol Black, with 
 or without th-- use of either yellow or red. 
 
The Dyeing of Feathers -with Acid Drestuffs. 
 
 Yellow. Cream. Orange. 
 
 According to the shade required, the following 
 dyestuffs are useful: Xaphtol Yellow S, Acid Yellow AT. 
 Indian Yellow G, R, Tropaeoline 00, Orange GG, 
 Orange II. extra. EXZ. 
 
 Green and Dark Green. 
 
 For these shades the various brands of Acid Green 
 or Brilliant Milling Green [B are used, shaded with 
 yellow if required. Naphtol Blue Black, Solid Blue R or 
 Xaphtol Black can be used for saddening. 
 
 Gre y and Mode Shades. 
 
 These are produced with either Cyanole extra. 
 Cyanole Green and Orange or Lanafuchsine, or with 
 Aniline Grey or Xigrosine. The dyestuffs mentioned 
 on pages 34 — 35 for silk are also well applicable for 
 feather dyeing. 
 
 Brown and Olive. 
 
 For brown it is advisable to dye a bottom of 
 Alkaline Blue, Solid Blue or Xaphtol Black, and to 
 complete the dyeing with Orange, Azo Rubine, Indian 
 Yellow, Acid Green or Cyanole; for olive, larger 
 quantities of yellow are nece ssary and less of red. 
 
 Violet and Prune. 
 
 For these shades the various Formyl Violets are 
 suitable; for darkening, Roccelline or Azo Rubine with 
 Cyanole or Acid Green may be used. 
 
 Black. 
 
 In the first place, the Xaphtylamine Blacks 4B 
 and 6B, Naphtyl Blue Black N or Naphtol Blue Black 
 i ■■li-, shaded according to requirement with 
 Indian Yellow or Orange extra; very good results may 
 • obtained with Feather Black GS. The dyeing 
 [s besl done in wooden vessels with concentrated dye 
 liquors which can be kept for future lots. 
 
The Dyeing of Feathers "with Acid Drestuffs. 67 
 
 Directions for Dyeing in Acid Baths. 
 
 The dyeing is done in slightly acid baths with the 
 addition of sulphuric acid or bisulphate of soda; an excess 
 of acid should be avoided in order not to injure the flue 
 of the feathers. Pale shades are dyed lukewarm, dark 
 shades at the boil: violent boiling is detrimental, and 
 careful handling is necessary in order to keep the feathers 
 from injury. 
 
 Xaphtylamine Black 4B and 6B, also Naphtyl Blue 
 Black N, are dyed with acetic acid instead of sulphuric 
 acid: Alkaline Blue is dyed as indicated on page 15. 
 
 Bl Dyeing with Basic Dyestuffs. 
 
 The dyestuffs enumerated on pages 27 and US are applied 
 in hut neutral baths; very pale shades can also be dyed 
 in a weak soap lather at hand heat. 
 
X. The Dyeing of Skins and Rugs. 
 
 Previous to the dyeing the skins are cleaned in a 
 weak solution of soda, sometimes also with the addition 
 of soap, to free the hair from fat and above all to effect 
 a thorough cleaning. 
 
 The dyeing is done with either basic or acid dyestuffs. 
 The former need only be taken into consideration if no 
 special fastness (to rubbing, light etc.) is required; they 
 are applied by dipping the skins into their lukewarm 
 solutions which contain some Glauber's salt. The dyestuffs 
 enumerated on pages 27 and 28 can be used. 
 
 For the dyeing with acid dyestuffs, the skins require 
 in the first place some preparation according to our 
 patented process, consisting of a chrome bath which gives 
 the leather resistance for the subsequent treatments, and 
 a chloride of lime bath which increases the affinity of 
 the hair for the dyestuff. 
 
 Ten sheep skins (previously prepared with alum and 
 salt) weighing about 17 lbs, are treated in the following 
 manner: 
 
 The skins well cleaned with soap are rinsed in water 
 
 and dipped into a solution containing 
 
 1,8 oz chromium oxy chloride \ 
 
 3,6 „ basic sulphate of alumina ( „ .. 
 
 ' l .. per 22 gallons. 
 
 • <,'> .. '-"111111011 salt I 
 
 5,4 .. acetate of soda (cryst.) / 
 
 After Leaving the skins for a few hours in the liquor 
 
 the leather is tested by cutting in order to see whether 
 
 it has been properly saturated by the liquor; if this be 
 
 the case, another 3,6 oz chromium oxy chloride are added 
 
 and the skins are lefl in the liquor for 24 to 36 hours. 
 
 being given on occasional turn. They are then lifted, 
 
 thoroughly rinsed, and hydro extracted. 
 
The Dyeing of Skins and Rugs. 69 
 
 The skins are then entered into a cold bath of l 3 /4 pints 
 hydrochloric acid per 22 gallons water, where they are 
 left for r 4 hour, and thereupon put into a chloride of lime 
 bath (well dissolved and settled). Having worked them 
 for about 20 minutes in the liquor, 12 cz ( 3 /± pint) spirits 
 of salts are added, and they are worked for another ten 
 minutes: they are then put back for another J/i hour into 
 the first bath of spirits of salts which has been strength- 
 ened in the meanwhile with another pint of hydrochloric 
 acid. The skins are thereupon well rinsed. To the last 
 (lukewarm) rinsing water, 3 to 4 X /^ oz hyposulphite of 
 soda per 10 gallons are added, which is followed by a 
 final thorough rinsing. 
 
 After hydroextraeting. the skins may be dyed with 
 any acid dy. stuffs in baths up to 167° F. without fear of 
 detriment to the leather. Care must however be taken to 
 add the dyestuff in several portions and to keep the tempe- 
 rature low in the beginning, gradually increasing it to 
 :'. The additions of bisulphate of soda, acids and 
 Glauber's salt are similar as for wool. 
 
 The skins are well hydro extracted after dyeing, 
 painted on the flesh side with a strong solution of common 
 salt, and dried at not too high a temperature. 
 
XL Appendix. 
 
 The ground colours of the articles being an important 
 consideration in the re-dyeing and frequently needing 
 removal in order to obtain good results, it is well to 
 mention some of the methods of stripping or decolourising 
 
 goods. 
 
 The processes chiefly resorted to are 
 
 1) Stripping in alkaline baths, 
 
 2) Stripping with oxydising agents, 
 
 3) Stripping with reducing agents. 
 
 1) Stripping in Alkaline Baths. 
 
 The alkalies employed are either soda carbonate or 
 ammonia. The concentration of the stripping liquor 
 depends upon the depth of the ground colour and the 
 nature of the dyestuff it has been produced with. The 
 bath must neither be too strong nor too hot, as it might 
 otherwise injure the wool or the silk. 
 
 If the ground colours of the goods show a tendency 
 to come off with alkaline liquors, an increased effect can 
 be obtained by boiling in wheat bran. For this purpose 
 the goods must be several times well washed in warm 
 water after leaving the alkaline liquors and then be boiled 
 for a short time in water containing 1 to 2 lbs wheat 
 bran per 10 gallons. 
 
 2) Stripping with Oxydising Agents. 
 
 Those generally employed are either nitric acid, or 
 bichrome and sulphuric acid; ili«' goods must in cither 
 ease '"■ previously stripped and cleaned \\ ith soda solution. 
 
Appeudix. - 71 
 
 The stripping with nitric acid is done at the boil by 
 leaving the goods in a bath containing 1 /2 to 1 gallon 
 nitric acid per 10 gallons until sufficiently decolourised. 
 After a good rinsing, the garments are neutralised with 
 alkali or ammonia. The resulting colour is generally a 
 uniform, reddish yellow. 
 
 The stripping with nitric acid is best done in stone- 
 ware or wooden vessels; in place of nitric acid, sodium 
 nitrite (4 to GO/o) and sulphuric acid (8 to 120/o) can 
 be used. 
 
 The stripping with bichrome and sulphuric acid is 
 likewise done at the boil; the usual quantities are 3 to 4o/o 
 bichrome and twice the quantity of sulphuric acid, the 
 treatment lasting about 1 l2 hour. 
 
 i 
 
 3) Stripping with Reducing Agents. 
 
 Of these, hydrosulphite of soda is the one exclusively 
 employed of late; although somewhat more expensive 
 than the afore named agents, it yields far better results. 
 
 Hydrosulphite is prepared as follows: 
 
 The commercial, liquid bisulphite of soda of 67° Tw. 
 is diluted down to 32° Tw., */ 2 pint of ammonia (0,9 sp. g.) 
 added to each gallon, and 1 /-2 lb zinc dust slowly stirred 
 into this solution. After allowing to settle for 1 /2 hoar, 
 the clear solution is used. 
 
 The stripping bath is prepared by adding to each 
 25 gallons of water 1 to 2 gallons of the above solution, 
 each gallon of which has been previously acidulated 
 with 1 oz of acetic acid of 10° Tw. The goods are treated 
 in this bath at the boil for 10 to 15 minutes. 
 
 Solution of hydrosulphite should not be preserved too 
 yielding best results when prepared fresh for each 
 special occassion. 
 
 Without guarantee. 
 
NK8804 .C38g stack 
 
 Cassella Color Comp/Garment dyeing. Cass 
 
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