WG&<~ 
 
 ^>£&¥ 
 
 THE SELF-IHSTRUCTOR 
 IN SILK, 
 
 mm 
 
 EMBROIDERY. 
 
 Beldim 
 
 Bros. & Co. 
 
 OFFICES AND SALESROOMS : 
 
 455 and 457 Broadway, New York. 
 
 183, 185 and 187 5th Avenue, Chicago. 
 
 "-^=sFROMs=^" ll 
 
 :J« lontreal. 
 WORSTEDS, \\ 
 
 Embroid-^ Materials, Etc. 1 
 
 143 POST STREET, SAN FRANCiSCO. | 
 
 Send for Catalogue. |J 
 
 feSf^er J Hr J d , H r^r'r' Fr 1 ?S:riri C ', r) , a C !PFr g 
 
 
STIRLING 
 AND FRANC1NE 
 
 C1A1UC 
 APS INSTITUTE 
 L1BRART 
 
11. 
 
 THE > SELF-INSTRUCTOR 
 
 IN SILK 
 
 K nittin g, i Q rocheting 
 
 <d 
 
 —AND— 
 
 EMBROIDERY. 
 
 BELDING 
 
 __ 
 
 BROS. & CO. 
 
 OFFICES AND SALESROOMS: 
 
 455 & 457 broadway, new york. 
 183, 185 & 187 5th ave. , Chicago. 
 136 race st., cincinnati. 
 6th & arch sts. , philadelphia. 
 
 105 SUMMER ST., BOSTON. 
 521 ST. CHARLES ST., ST. LOUIS. 
 585 MARKET ST. , SAN FRANCISCO. 
 12 ST. JAMES ST. , WEST, MONTREAL 
 
 SECOND EDITION, 250,000 COPIES. 
 
 1884. 
 
 © 
 
 — O 
 

 
 IN K X X O *~t 
 
 -o 
 
 ♦ 
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by 
 Belding Bkos. & Co., 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 
 
 *a* 
 
 (^ 
 
 
 
 ■© 
 
 I 
 
•Q 
 
 C0]WE]W£. 
 
 Ill 1 
 
 PAGE 
 
 TO OUR READERS, 5 
 
 PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION, ------ 6 
 
 PURE THREAD SILK, Illustrated, 7 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR BEGINNERS IN KNITTING AND CROCHETING, 11 
 HOW TO WASH SILK KNIT ARTICLES, - - - - -13 
 
 TABLE OF STITCHES, I 4 
 
 KNITTING : 
 
 Explanation of Terms Used, - - - - - - 15 
 
 General Directions for Stocking Knitting, - - - - 16 
 
 Fancy Bands for Stockings or Mittens, Knitted, - - 19 
 
 Wristlets, 21 
 
 Railroad Stockings, 21 
 
 Lady's Mittens, Illustrated, ------ 22 
 
 Lady's Mittens, Illustrated, - - 23 
 
 Gentleman's Mittens, ------- 24 
 
 Lady's Cuffs, Illustrated, ----- - 25 
 
 Baby's Mittens In Moss Stitch, Illustrated, 26 
 
 Baby's Socks, Illustrated, 27 
 
 Fascinator, Illustrated, ------- 28 
 
 Suspenders in German Brioche Stitch, - - - - - 30 
 
 Moss Edge, 30 
 
 Baby's Sack, Illustrated, - - - - - - - 31 
 
 Baby's Cap, Illustrated, ------- 33 
 
 Long Purse, Illustrated, - - 34 
 
 Checkered Holder, Illustrated, - - - 35 
 
 Insertion, - - - - - - - -36 
 
 Narrow Lace, -------- 36 
 
 Lace, Illustrated, --------37 
 
 Saw Tooth Edging, Illustrated, ------ 38 
 
 CROCHETING : 
 
 Explanation of Terms Used, ------- 39 
 
 Puffed Wristlets, - - - - - - - - 40 
 
 Miser's Purse, Illustrated, - - - - - - 40 
 
 Lady's Normandy Cap, Illustrated, 41 
 
 © : . O 
 
^ ZZZZ 9 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CROCHETING : PAGE 
 
 Baby's Hood, Illustrated, - - - - - : - - 43 
 
 Edge, - - 44 
 
 Lady's Collar, Illustrated, - - - 45 
 
 Lace, Illustrated, --■■-- - 46 
 
 Baby's Socks in Panel Stitch, Illustrated, - - - 47 
 
 Edge, Illustrated, - - 48 
 
 Rose Tidy, Illustrated, - - 49 
 
 Edge, - 50 
 
 Insertion, Illustrated, - - 51 
 
 Fringe, Illustrated, - 52 
 
 Baby's Sack, Illustrated, - - 53 
 
 Wide Lace, Illustrated, - - - 54 
 
 EMBROIDERY : 
 
 General Features of the Art, - - - - - 57 
 
 Outline Stitches, Illustrated, - - - - - - 58 
 
 Tapestry Stitch, Illustrated, - - - 59 
 
 Kensington Stitch, Illustrated, - - 60 
 
 Flower in Kensington Stitch, Illustrated, - - 62 
 
 Chain Stitches, Illustrated^ - - - '- 63 
 French Knots, Illustrated, ------- 63 
 
 Fern, Veining and Feather Stitches, Illustrated, ■ 65 
 
 Balloon Stitch, Illustrated, . - - 66 
 
 Couching Stitches, Illustrated, 66 
 
 Bordering Figure, Illustrated, - - 67 
 
 Border for Table Scarfs, Illustrated, ■ ■ - . 68 
 
 Borders, Illustrated, - - - 70 
 
 Sofa Pillow, Illustrated, - - 72 
 
 Lamp Shade, Illustrated, - - 73 
 
 Outline Designs, Illustrated, ' - - 75 
 
 Book Cover, Illustrated, - - - 76 
 
 Fans, Illustrated, - 77 
 
 Clocks for Stockings, Illustrated, - - , - 80 
 
 SILK MANUFACTURE, Illustrated, - 82 
 
 6 . © 
 

 
 TO OUR READERS. 
 
 This book refers solely to working in silk ; each one of the arti- 
 cles described has been actually made in that material. In this 
 respect the book differs from others in which methods have been 
 adopted from worsted work which give unsatisfactory results in 
 
 silk. 
 
 The directions here given were prepared by a lady of thorough 
 
 experience who has been for some years a teacher of the art, and 
 knows the difficulties that pupils often encounter. By actual test it 
 has been ascertained that ladies who have not had the advantages of 
 personal teaching, with only these instructions communicated by let- 
 ter, are able to make the articles described, and produce handsome 
 and satisfactory work. 
 
 The embroidery designs are all new and original, prepared ex- 
 clusively for this book. A great variety of fancy stitches is pre- 
 sented ; more than can be found elsewhere. The knitted and cro- 
 cheted work is partly original and partly selected, the selections being 
 made from a scattered range of publications, mostly foreign and not 
 generally accessible. 
 
 Not only are the patterns exclusively adapted for silk, but also 
 the colors are named for each article. Consequently, by sending for 
 Belding Bros. & Co.'s silk, according to the colors specified, and 
 following the book directions, the articles when finished will be 
 found artistic in combination of colors as well as in design. 
 
 It is supposed that most of our readers have a knowledge of the 
 rudiments of knitting and crochet work. But in order to make this 
 book of service to all who wish to acquire the art, a chapter of " In- 
 structions to Beginners " has been incorporated with it, which will be 
 found of practical value. 
 
 6 — — — — — . £> 
 
<? 
 
 PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. 
 
 The great demand for " The Self Instructor in Silk Knitting, 
 Crocheting and Embroidery," published by us a short time ago, has 
 exhausted our edition of 100,000 copies, and in order to meet the caU 
 for the publication from all parts of the country, we ham been 
 obliged to print this second edition of 250,000 copies. 
 
 This book contains nearly all the matter presented in the first 
 edition, and several additio7ial pages of descriptions of new articles 
 in knitting and crocheting, the whole comprising the most thorough 
 and systematic work of this nature yet published, and the directions 
 contained in which, if followed, in connection with the use of silks 
 of B elding Bros. <& Co.'s manufacture, may be relied upon to give 
 entire satisfaction. 
 
 © ■ © 
 
I 
 
 O' 
 
 o 
 
 Pure T hread Silk 
 
 \i/ 
 
 /i\ 
 
 THE CONTRAST BETWEEN BELDING BROS. & CO.'S 
 
 "SUPERIOR" PURE THREAD KNITTING SILK 
 
 AND THE KNITTING SILK MADE BY 
 
 OTHER MANUFACTURERS. 
 
 \i/ 
 
 /i\ 
 
 O make handsome articles in knitting and crochet, 
 the best of silk must be used. Belding Bros. & Co. 
 sell the best silk at prices as low as others charge for 
 that which is inferior. It is not generally known 
 that there are two kinds of knitting silk in the mar- 
 ket ; one made from pure thread silk, the other from 
 spun silk. The difference is very great. 
 
 THREAD SILK 
 
 is made by unwinding cocoons, from each of which a single con- 
 tinuous thread or fibre of great length is obtained. Several of 
 the continuous cocoon-threads being combined, are doubled and twist- 
 ed a number of times until the finished thread is formed of the re- 
 quired thickness. No other material has such a long fibre ; conse- 
 
 -o 
 
8 
 
 PUKE THREAD STLE. 
 
 quently, silk thread, thus made, is stronger and more elastic 
 than any other thread. 
 
 When pure silk thread is uutwisted and magnified to the view, 
 under the microscope, it presents the appearance given in the illus- 
 tration below, every cocoon-fibre composing the whole thread being 
 of even and lustrous texture and strength. 
 
 SPUN SILK 
 
 is made from pierced or imperfect cocoons, whose fibres are broken, 
 and from other short pieces of silk fibre, known as "waste," none 
 
 of which can be reeled ; they are carded and spun like flax or cotton. 
 
 A finished thread of this product, when unraveled and exposed 
 under the microscope, shows the fibres of which it is composed to be 
 broken and serrated, as shown in the illustration on the following 
 page, and far inferior in lustre and strength to thread made from 
 reeled silk. 
 
 The time employed in making the article is the same, whether 
 
 o 
 
 ■© 
 
o 
 
 PUBE THBEAD SILK. 
 
 V 
 
 "spun" or Belding's Pure Thread Silk is used, but the result is 
 very different. 
 
 The following considerations will doubtless be sufficient to con- 
 vince consumers that 
 
 SPUN SILK IS DEAR AT ANY PRICE, 
 
 and that although Belding's pure thread silk costs a trilie more than 
 spun silk, it is really cheaper. 
 
 Articles made of Belding's silk will have a bright and uniform 
 
 lustre, and will last for years, with ordinary use, retaining their 
 freshness and brilliancy to the last. 
 
 Articles made of spun silk, on the contrary, will have little lus- 
 tre ; the parts that are most handled in making will soon lose their 
 brightness, and after a week's use the article will look dull and 
 
 ©■ 
 
 -0 
 
-0 
 
 10 
 
 PURE THREAD SILK. 
 
 faded, as if made of cotton, and besides becoming- shabby, will 
 
 WEAR OUT VERY SOON. 
 
 DO NOT BE DECEIVED. THE BEST IS THE CHEAPEST. 
 
 Don't allow your shopkeeper to impose upon you by selling you 
 some other silk, representing that it is "just as good as Belding's." 
 
 Every spool of Belding Bros. & Co.'s "Superior Knitting 
 Silk " has a blue label on the end of the spool, of which the illustra- 
 tion here given is a fac similie, and each spool of this silk is war- 
 
 ranted by them as made from pure thread silk, identical with that 
 used by them in the manufacture of their well-known machine-twist 
 and sewing-silk, which have the highest reputation and have 
 always been awarded prize medals for superiority, over all 
 competitors, wherever exhibited. 
 
 6- 
 
o— — — — -o 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR BEGINNERS IN KNITTING AND 
 
 CROCHETING. 
 
 In the " good old times " of our grandmothers, every young girl 
 was taught to knit, as she was taught to read — it was a necessary part 
 of her education. But in these days, looms and knitting machines 
 have crowded hand labor almost entirely out of market, and the elegant 
 art of knitting has fallen almost entirely into disuse. Many young 
 ladies have never learned to make even the simplest articles, but 
 must depend upon the stores for everything they need. Aside, how- 
 ever, from the inconvenience of this state of things, no machine work, 
 be it ever so good, can equal in durability the patient productions of 
 the human hand. Especially is this true of silk work. The silk 
 stocking which is woven on a loom is too expensive for any but the 
 wealthy to buy, and is soon worn out, while that knit by hand, if the 
 silk be good, is almost indestructible, and costs but a trifle. A hand- 
 some lace may be knitted or crocheted, at a cost of about forty cents 
 per yard, which will equal in durability one which is purchased at a 
 cost of ten or twelve dollars per yard. 
 
 Nor is this all. Many elegant little trifles for gifts, fairs, etc., 
 cannot be found in the fancy stores. They must be made at home, 
 and the value of the gift is enhanced by the labor of the giver. The 
 pleasure of making them is also worth considering. The invalid 
 who finds time hanging heavily on her hands, and wants some light 
 occupation that will not tax her feeble strength ; the busy housewife, 
 to whom a bit of fancy work which can be caught up or laid down at 
 a moment's notice is a real boon ; the young lady who finds enjoy - 
 *ment in the mere production of pretty things, all turn to knitting or 
 crocheting with positive delight. 
 
 For the benefit of those who have never learned these delightful 
 arts we give a few elementary instructions in the forming of the sim- 
 ple stitches, beginning with knitting. 
 
 The first step is to cast on the stitches. There are several ways 
 of doing this, but one only is admissible in silk. Make a slip knot in 
 the end of the silk, insert a knitting needle in the loop and draw it 
 up close to the needle. This makes the first stitch. Take the needle 
 containing it in the left hand, put the stitch close to the end of the 
 needle, and hold it tightly between the thumb and forefinger. The 
 silk must now be wound about the fingers of the- right hand in such a 
 way as to obtain perfect control over it. Pass it between the second 
 and third fingers, holding the palm of the right hand toward the left ; 
 let the silk which is between the right hand and the needle pass 
 around the third and fourth fingers from the palm to the back, over 
 the back until it reaches the second or middle finger, under this, and 
 over the first, or forefinger, crossing it at the base of the nail. This 
 brings the right hand close up to the left. The fingers must not be 
 stiff nor held tightly together, but kept loose and flexible, always 
 ready to let the silk slip loosely between them, or, by a little pres- 
 0_ : . 
 
12 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR BEGINNERS 
 
 6 
 
 sure, hold it more firmly, making the knitting tight or loose at will. 
 It is hard at first, but "practice makes perfect/' 
 
 Having the silk properly wound about the fingers, take a second 
 needle between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, and in- 
 sert the end in the loop which is on the left-hand needle. It must 
 be inserted from the left side of the loop towards the right, and the 
 end of the right-hand needle slipped under the left-hand needle. The 
 loop now crosses both needles. Keep the thumb of the right hand 
 pressed lightly on its needle, and by a forward motion of the fingers 
 throw the silk back of the right-hand needle, drawing it down be- 
 tween the two needles and across the loop. Draw out the right-hand 
 needle from the loop in such a way as to bring the crossing with it 
 thus making a second loop on the right-hand needle. Slip the loop 
 thus formed on to the left-hand needle and you have two stitches. 
 Repeat the process until there are as many stitches as you require. 
 
 You are now ready to knit the first row. Proceed exactly as in 
 casting on, until you have drawn out the loop on the right-hand 
 needle. Then, instead of transferring it to the left-hand needle, slip 
 the loop off of the latter, leaving a completed stitch on the right-hand 
 needle. Repeat the process with the next stitch, and continue until all 
 the stitches have been knitted off on to the right-hand needle. This 
 now becomes the left-hand needle, and the empty needle being trans- 
 ferred to the right hand, the stitches are again knitted off for the sec- 
 ond row. 
 
 This constant repetition backward and forward on two needles is 
 called "garter stitch," and makes simply a flat piece, alike on both 
 sides. If it is desired to have a right and wrong side, every alternate 
 row must be " purled." Instead of inserting the right-hand needle in 
 the loop from left to right, it must be inserted from right to left- 
 and over instead of under the left-hand needle. The silk (which must 
 be previously brought to the front instead of the back of the needle 
 where it naturally falls,) is then thrown between the needles and 
 around the right-hand needle towards the front, the stitch being- 
 completed by drawing the right-hand needle out towards the back and 
 slipping the loop off as before. 
 
 To knit a round, instead of a flat piece, as in a stocking, the stitches 
 are arranged on three needles, a fourth being reserved to knit with. 
 This is always the right-hand needle, and the stitches are knit off 
 from each needle in succession, going around and around instead of 
 back and forth. 
 
 When the work is completed it must be " bound off." Knit two 
 stitches, then slip the first one knit over the second, leaving but one 
 on the needle. Knit one more and repeat the process. Continue 
 until all the stitches are used up, the final one remaining on the right- 
 hand needle. Cut off the silk at a few inches distance from the needle 
 and draw it through. Thread . it in an ordinary darning needle and 
 sew it in firmly on the wrong side. 
 
 It is sometimes necessary to pick up stitches from a piece of work 
 already knitted, instead of casting them on. For example, along the 
 heel of a stocking. Use only a right-hand needle ; insert it in the 
 stitch to be picked up, from front to back, throw the silk around as 
 
 O 
 
0- — o 
 
 IN KNITTING AND CROCHETING. 13 I 
 
 if for knitting an ordinary or "plain" stitch, and draw the loop 
 through on the right side. 
 
 Crocheting is done always with one needle, or "hook" as it is 
 often called. Wind the silk around the hand as if for knitting, but 
 around the left hand instead of the right. Hold the hook in the right 
 hand, with the open part of the hook toward you. Make a slip knot 
 on the hook for the first stitch. Put the hook under the silk where 
 it crosses the forefinger of the left hand, and by means of the hook 
 draw a loop through the first stitch. This makes the second stitch. 
 Repeat until there are as many stitches as desired. Of course there 
 is never more than one at a time on the needle. This is called chain 
 stitch, and is always used for a foundation. For a flat piece, work 
 back and forth on the chain, turning the work at the end of each row. 
 For a round piece, join the ends of the chain by a stitch taken through 
 them both, making a ring. 
 
 After the foundation has thus been made, various stitches may 
 be worked upon it. The simplest is double crochet. Having one 
 stitch on the needle, put the hook through a stitch or chain of the 
 foundation, and draw a loop through. There are now two stitches on 
 the needle. Take up the silk from the fore-finger, and draw a loop 
 through both these stitches at once. This completes one double 
 crochet. 
 
 For a treble crochet, throw the silk over the hook before putting 
 it through the foundation. When the loop is drawn through, three 
 stitches will be found on the needle. Draw a loop through two of 
 these. Two will still remain — the first one, and the one just made. 
 Take up the silk again and draw a loop through both, completing one 
 treble crochet. For other stitches, see ' ' Explanation of Terms, " page 39. 
 
 In turning the work at the end of a row, a few chain stitches 
 niust always be made to keep the edge from drawing up. One chain 
 stitch is considered equal to a single crochet two to a double crochet, 
 three to a treble, and four to a long treble. 
 
 \i/ 
 
 /K 
 
 HOW TO WASH SILK KNIT ARTICLES. 
 
 Wash in cool, soft water, use pure white castile, ox gall, or fine 
 toilet soap, and use no more than necessary ; rub as little as possible; 
 press the water out by placing in a clean, dry cloth ; do not wring, 
 but squeeze them. Wash each article separately. Rinse once in 
 clear cold water, again in cold water which has been tinctured with 
 some mild acid; cream of tartar, tartaric acid, alum or vinegar will 
 do. Dry quickly. When nearly dry, rub with a piece of soft dry 
 flannel, always the same way. If desired to press the article, lay in 
 or under a heavy book. Do not press hot, as it gives the article a 
 starched appearance. Use no acid for black, but add a little liquid 
 ammonia to the washing water. Use no ammonia for colors. 
 
 Separate directions are given for washing embroidery silks, 
 under the heading " Embroidery," on page 57. 
 
 G- 
 
© 
 
 14 
 
 O 
 
 TABLE of stitches. 
 
 TABLE OF STITCHES FOR LADIES' AND CHILDREN'S 
 
 STOCKINGS. 
 
 o g 
 
 a 
 
 ^ _: 
 
 -t-> s3 
 
 •a o 
 
 DO +3 
 
 d 
 
 No. of rounds 
 before narrow- 
 ing, including 
 ribbed or fancy 
 band. 
 
 No. of stitclies 
 
 for ankle after 
 
 narrowing is 
 
 completed. 
 
 No. of plain 
 rounds in ankle. 
 
 No. of plain 
 
 rounds in foot, 
 
 before narrowing 
 
 for toe. 
 
 5* 
 
 97 
 
 130 
 
 59 
 
 36 
 
 42 
 
 6* 
 
 105 
 
 146 
 
 67 
 
 40 
 
 58 
 
 7* 
 
 113 
 
 175 
 
 77 
 
 58 
 
 67 
 
 8* 
 
 127 
 
 207 
 
 81 
 
 85 
 
 90 
 
 8f 
 
 141 
 
 252 
 
 95 
 
 72 
 
 74 
 
 8|f 
 
 145 
 
 256 
 
 99 
 
 76 
 
 85 
 
 9f 
 
 149 
 
 261 
 
 105 
 
 81 
 
 92 
 
 91f 
 
 151 
 
 265 
 
 109 
 
 94 
 
 96 
 
 * Children's size. 
 
 t Ladies' size. 
 
 TABLE OF STITCHES FOR GENTLEMEN'S SOCKS. 
 
 w 
 
 
 bo 
 
 02 fl . 
 
 bo 
 
 •H O P- 
 
 o 
 
 V ~4 
 
 d 3 w 
 
 <3<w O . 
 
 o 
 
 -^ a 
 
 3^d 
 
 p\dgg 
 
 w. 
 
 3 o 
 
 O 0£2 
 
 1-1 
 
 o 
 
 CO ^ 
 
 ^ <S1 
 
 
 
 
 d 
 
 
 No. 
 
 roun( 
 
 efore 
 
 fo 
 
 
 
 "^ 
 
 p 
 
 9 . 
 
 108 
 
 186 
 
 99 
 
 10 
 
 112 
 
 207 
 
 103 
 
 11 
 
 119 
 
 220 
 
 110 
 
 All these estimates are based on a scale of fourteen stitclies and 
 eighteen rounds to the inch. 
 
 ©- 
 
 ■<•> 
 
© 
 
 *^!l I I I I I I I I: I I I I I I 
 
 EXPLANATION OF TERMS USED. 
 
 K. — Knit plain. 
 
 P. — Purl, or as it is sometimes called, seam. 
 
 N. or K 2 to. — Narrow by knitting two together. 
 
 Over. — Throw the thread over the needle before inserting it in 
 the next stitch. This makes a loop which is always to be consid- 
 ered a stitch in the succeeding rounds. 
 
 Tw. — Twist stitch. Insert the needle in the back of the stitch 
 to be knitted, and knit as usual. 
 
 SI. — Slip a stitch from the left hand to the right-hand needle 
 without knitting it. 
 
 SI. and b. — Slip and bind. Slip one stitch, knit the next, pass 
 the slipped one over it, exactly as in binding off a piece of work at 
 the end. 
 
 * — Indicates a repetition, and is used merely to save words. "* 
 SI. 1, k. 1, p. 1, repeat three times," would be equivalent to saving 
 " SI. 1, k. 1, p. 1, si. 1, k. 1, p. 1, si. 1, k. 1, p. 1." 
 
 O • — 9 
 
(•> 
 
 -o 
 
 GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR STOCKING KNITTING. 
 
 Cast on the required number of stitches. This in a plain stock- 
 ing should be a number divisible by three, with one over, and they 
 are distributed on three needles, the needle containing the odd stitch 
 being known as the first needle. If a fancy pattern is used, the num- 
 ber of stitches will, of course, be governed by the pattern 
 
 CASTING ON. 
 
 on 
 
 The casting on may be done on three needles, or on one ■ if c 
 one needle, the proper number of stitches must be slipped off on the 
 other two needles. When wool is used, the stitches are usually 
 knitted on with two threads, but this should never be done in silk 
 
 lhe correct way of casting on is as follows : Make a slip knot 
 on the left-hand needle for the first stitch, insert the riffht-hand 
 
 ZT+ i # ^l nd , ^ °T st \ tch ' but instead of slipping the first 
 stitch off of the left-hand needle, slip the stitch just made on to the 
 left-hand needle, making two stitches. Repeat until you have the 
 required number of stitches.' 
 
 RIBBED BAND. 
 
 Knit one round plain, then begin the ribbed band. Knit two 
 purl two alternately, until the band is one inch broad, for a lady's 
 stocking, or three inches for a gentleman's sock. Instead of this 
 band a pretty fancy pattern may be substituted. Now knit plain all 
 round, except the middle stitch on the first needle, which should 
 always be purled, for a -seam stitch." Continue until the point is 
 reached where the leg begins to taper, or about the middle of the 
 calf. 
 
 NARROWINGS. 
 
 ^ Knit to within five stitches of the seam, then knit two together 
 knit three plain, seam, knit three plain, slip one, knit one, pass the 
 slipped stitch over. Knit the rest of the round plain. Knit four 
 more plain rounds, then narrow again in the same way. Repeat 
 until you have made six narrowings with four plain rounds between 
 each. Then make five narrowings, with five rounds between each 
 four with six rounds between, three with seven rounds between and 
 two with eight rounds between. 
 
 These numbers must be varied, of course, with the size of the 
 stocking, the ones given being for a lady's stocking of medium size. 
 1 he best way is to measure a well-fitting stocking. Find out by 
 counting how many rounds you knit to the inch. The number varies 
 with nearly every knitter. Now measure on the sample stocking the 
 number of inches between the middle of the calf and the ankle 
 multiply by the number of rounds to the inch, and you will have the 
 number of rounds in which the narrowings must be made. Measure 
 also the width of the sample stocking at the ankle, and ascertain the 
 number of stitches that must be left on the needles at that point 
 
■ O 
 
 belding's knitting SILKS. 17 
 
 This number, subtracted from the number you have at the calf, will 
 show you how many stitches are to be disposed of, and you can dis- 
 tribute the narro wings accordingly. Make them quite close together 
 at first, with a constantly increasing distance between them as you 
 near the ankle. Knit the ankle plain. 
 
 HEEL. 
 
 Now divide the stitches, of which there should be an odd num- 
 ber, in two parts, putting half the stitches and the extra stitch on one 
 needle. This extra stitch should be the seam stitch, and should come 
 in the middle of the needle. The rest of the stitches are divided 
 equally on two needles, and disregarded for a time. Knit back 
 and forth on the heel needle (the one containing the seam-stitch), 
 until you have knit as many rows as there are stitches on the needle. 
 
 In knitting back, be careful to purl all the stitches, except the 
 seam-stitch, so as to keep the work " right side out;" also slip the 
 first stitch of every row instead of knitting it, in order to form an 
 elastic edge. In the last four or five plain rows, narrow on each side 
 of the seam, to give the heel a slight curve. Now knit to the middle 
 of the needle, turn the two needles back to back, or so that the heel 
 is wrong side out, and with an extra needle bind off, knitting the 
 seam-stitch first, and afterwards inserting the right-hand needle 
 always in one stitch of each left-handle needle, treating the two as 
 one stitch. This completes the heel. 
 
 GUSSETS. 
 
 You have now two instep needles with an equal number of 
 stitches on each, and a heel needle with one stitch in the middle of 
 the heel. Holding the stocking with the heel in front of you, begin 
 on the side of the heel nearest the left hand, and pick up the stitches 
 * along the edge of the heel, knitting them on to the heel needle as 
 you proceed. Knit across the instep needles, putting the stitches 
 from both needles on one. Pick up and knit the stitches from the 
 other side of the heel, putting them on a third needle. You now 
 have all the stitches on three needles, one on the left of the heel, 
 known as the first side needle, one across the instep, or instep needle, 
 and one on the left of the heel, or second side needle. 
 
 Now knit one round, increasing one in every third stitch on each 
 side needle. The best way of doing this is to insert the needle in 
 the back of the stitch to be widened, knit one, as if for a twist- 
 stitch, and before slipping it off of the needle, knit one plain in the 
 same stitch. Before beginning the next round, slip two stitches 
 from the instep needle on to the side needles. Knit plain until within 
 four stitches of the end of the first side needle, slip and bind, knit 
 two plain. Knit the instep needle plain, knit two stitches plain on 
 the second side needle, narrow, knit the rest plain. Repeat these 
 narrowings in every round until the total number of stitches is the 
 same as at the ankle. Knit plain until the toe is reached. 
 
 TOE. 
 
 Now put half the stitches on the instep needle, and divide the 
 © _Q 
 
©- 
 
 18 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 ■o 
 
 other half equally between the two side needles. Beginning with 
 the first side needle, knit to within four stitches of the end of the 
 needle, slip and bind, knit two plain. On the instep needle, knit two 
 plain, knit two together, knit to within four stitches of the end, slip 
 and bind, knit two plain. On the second side needle, knit two plain 
 knit two together, knit the rest plain. Knit two rounds plain. Re- 
 peat the three rounds (the narrowing round and the two plain) until 
 the toe is long enough ; then slip the stitches from the two side 
 needles on to one needle, lay this and the instep needle together and 
 bind off as in the heel, but on the right side. This makes a flat toe 
 and is the shape of the best imported stockings. 
 
 ROUND TOE. 
 
 A round or pointed toe is knit in the following manner : Divide 
 the stitches equally on the three needles. Knit one round, narrow- 
 ing when within three stitches of each end of each needle. Knit 
 three rounds plain, then narrow as before. Three rounds plain 
 again, and another round of narrowing. Then two rounds plain, 
 narrow, two rounds plain. After this narrow at the end only of each 
 needle, in every round, until all are knit off. 
 
 CARLISLE TOE. 
 
 What is called the Carlisle toe is knit as follows : Make the 
 number of stitches divisible by seven, narrowing off one or two if 
 necessary. Then narrow after every five stitches all round. Knit 
 five plain rounds. Narrow after every four stitches and knit four 
 plain rounds. Narrow after every three stitches and knit three plain 
 rounds. Narrow after every two stitches and knit two plain rounds 
 Narrow after every other stitch and knit one plain round. Knit 
 two together all round until only one stitch remains. This makes a 
 very long pointed toe, liked by but few people. 
 
 MARGARET HEEL. 
 
 Another way of knitting the heel, which is much liked by many 
 people, is called the Margaret heel. It is produced as follows': After 
 knitting the heel of the desired length knit to the middle of the 
 needle, then knit two plain, knit two together, knit one, and turn 
 back, disregarding the remainder of the stitches. Purl to the middle 
 of the row, purl' two, purl two together, purl one, turn back. Repeat 
 these two rows, until all the side stitches are taken up. The heel is 
 then completed. 
 
 LOUISA AND SARAH HEELS. 
 
 The Louisa heel is but slightly different. After reaching the 
 middle, knit three instead of two, then knit two together, knit one 
 as before. Still another variation is called the " Sarah heel," and is 
 most suitable for a child's sock or stocking. Knit to the middle of. 
 the row, knit two, slip and bind, turn back. Purl to the middle of 
 the row, purl two, purl two together. Turn back. 
 
 These directions are applicable to all sizes of stockings. The 
 tables give the number of stitches for the different sizes. 
 
 o 
 
 
 
. L. © 
 
 belding's knitting silks. 19 
 
 GENTLEMEN S SOCKS. 
 
 Silk socks are knit after the same manner, except that the leg 
 is shorter, and in many cases ribbed the entire length. A good rule 
 for the ribs is three stitches plain, two purled. The leg should not 
 be narrowed at all, but knit of the same size its entire length. If 
 narrowed it is apt to slip down around the ankle in a very uncomfort- 
 able manner. A tight knitter should use No, 16 needles. A loose 
 knitter may use No. 17 or 18. The, sizes of the needles given through- 
 out this book correspond with the English standard. The German is 
 two sizes smaller. Thus, if a No. 17 needle is directed, and German 
 needles are used, a No. 19 should be chosen. The quantity of silk 
 required varies. Two ounces for children's stockings, two and a half 
 for socks, three and a half for ladies' medium length stockings, and 
 four for very long stockings, are the average quantities. 
 
 \i/ 
 
 ?i\ 
 
 FANCY BANDS FOR STOCKINGS OR MITTENS, 
 
 KNITTED. 
 
 A fancy band is often substituted for the ribbing at the top of 
 stockings, and the same pattern repeated across the instep, or down 
 the entire length of the leg. We give several patterns, selected from 
 various sources. After casting on, it is always best to knit one plain 
 row before beginning the pattern. 
 
 PEACOCKS TAIL. 
 
 Make the number of stitches divisible by 10. 
 1st round. — K. 2, over and k. 1 five times, over, k. 2, p. 1. Repeat. 
 2d round.— K. 2, p. 11, k. 2, p. 1. Repeat. 
 3d round. — N., k. 11, n., p. 1. Repeat. 
 4th rournd. — N., k. 9, n., p. 1. Repeat. 
 5th round. — N., k. 7, n., p. 1. Repeat. 
 
 Repeat from first round. 
 
 PLAITED BAND. 
 
 Make the number of stitches divisible by 13. 
 1st round. — Over, si. and b. , k. 7, over, si. and b. , k. 2. Repeat. 
 2d and every alternate round. — Plain. 
 3d round. — K. 1, * over, si. and b. , k. 4, n., k. 1., over, si. and b. , 
 
 k. 2. Repeat from *. 
 5th round. — K. 2, over, si. and b. , k. 2, n., over, k. 3, over, si. and 
 
 b. Repeat. 
 7th round. — K. 3, * over, si. and b. , n., over, k. 2, n., over, k. 1, 
 
 over, si. and b., k. 2. Repeat from*, ending with si. and b. 
 9th round. — Over, si. and b. , k. 2, si. and b. , over, k. 2, n., over, k. 
 
 3. Repeat. 
 11th round. — K. 1, * over, si. and b. , over, k. 2, over, k. 2, n., over, j 
 
 k. 5. Repeat from *, ending with k. 4. 
 
 -o 
 
o 
 
 20 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 13th round. — K. 2, si. 1, n., pass slipped over, over, k. 2, n., over, 
 
 k. 7. Repeat from *, ending with k. 5. 
 15th round.— K. 1, * n., over, k. 2, n., over, k. 1, over, si. and b., 
 
 k. 4. Repeat from *, ending with k. 3. 
 17th round.— N., over, k. 2, n., over, k. 3, over, si. and b., k. 2. 
 
 Repeat. 
 19th round.— N., over, k. 2, n., over, k. 1, over, si. and b., k. 2, over, 
 
 si. and b. Repeat. 
 21st round.— K. 2, n., over, k. 3, over, si. and b., k. 2, over, si. and 
 
 b. Repeat. * 
 
 23d round.— K. 1, * n„ over, k. 5, over, si. and b., k. 2, over, si. and 
 
 b. Repeat from * 
 Begin again at first row. This is a very pretty stitch, but is 
 sometimes a little puzzling to inexperienced knitters from the fact that 
 the end of the round changes its place on the needle. The simplest 
 way of obviating the difficulty is to mark the commencement of each 
 round by a bit of thread knitted in with the first stitch. 
 
 GERMAN ROSE-LEAF. 
 
 Make the number of stitches divisible by 6. 
 1st round.— K. 1, over, ntw., (narrow twisted, or, m other words, in 
 sert the needle in the backs of two stitches and knit as one), 
 k. 1, n., over. Repeat. 
 2d and every alternate round. Plain. 
 3d and 5th round. Like 1st. 
 
 7th round.— K. 2, over, k. 3 together twisted, over, k. 1. Repeat. 
 9th round. — K. 1, n., over, k. 1, over, n. Repeat. 
 11th and 13th rounds. — Like 9th. 
 
 15th round.— Slip the last stitch of the last needle on to the first 
 needle. Then k. 3 together, over, 3 tw. , over. Repeat. 
 Begin again at first row. 
 
 VINE PATTERN. 
 
 Make the number of stitches divisible by 7. 
 1st round. — SI. and b., k. 5, over. Repeat. 
 2d round. — SI. and b., k. 4, over. Repeat. 
 3d round.— SI. and b., k. 3, over. Repeat. 
 4th round.— SI. and b., k. 2, over. Repeat. 
 5th round. — SI. and b., k. 1, over. Repeat. 
 6th round. — SI. and b., over. Repeat. 
 7th round. — N., k. 1, over. Repeat. 
 8th round. — N., k. 2, over. Repeat. 
 9th round. — N., k. 3, over. Repeat. 
 10th round. — N., k. 4, over. Repeat. 
 11th round. — N., k. 5, over. Repeat. 
 
 Begin again at second round. 
 
 LACE PATTERN. 
 
 Make the number of stitches divisible by 17. 
 1st round.— Over, n., k. 1, over, n., k. 2, over, k. 1, over. k. 1, n., k. 
 
 3, n., k. 1. Repeat. 
 
 o- 
 
 l 
 
q o 
 
 BELDING'S KNITTING SILKS. 21 I 
 
 2d and every alternate round. — Plain. 
 
 3d round. — Over, n., k. 1, over, n., k. 2, over, k. 3, over, k. 1, n., k. 
 1, n., k. 1. Repeat. 
 
 5tk round. — Over, n., k. 1, over, n., k. 2, over, k. 5. over, k. 1, k. 3 
 together, k. 1. Repeat. 
 
 7th round. — Over, n., k. 1, over, n., n., k. 3, n., k. 1, over, k. 1, over, 
 k. 3. Repeat. 
 
 9th round. — Over, n., k. 1, over, n., n., k. 1, n., k. 1, over, k. 3, over, 
 k. 3. Repeat. 
 
 11 th round. — Over, n., k. 1, over, n., k. 4, over, k. 3, over, k. 3. Re- 
 peat. 
 
 12th round. — Plain. Repeat from 1st round. 
 
 KNOTTED PATTERN. 
 
 Make the number of stitches divisible by 9. 
 1st round. — Over, si. 1, k. 2 to., pass slipped stitch over. Repeat, 
 2d round. — O., k. 1, k. 2 in 1 (one twist and one plain in the same 
 
 stitch.) Repeat. 
 3d round. — Over, k. 3. Repeat. 
 4th round. — K. 4, over, k. 8, over, k. 4. Repeat. 
 5th round. — Always k. 2 to. 
 6th round. — Plain. 
 
 Repeat from the beginning. 
 
 WRISTLETS, 
 
 Any of the foregoing patterns will make pretty wristlets. The usual 
 number of stitches cast on for a lady's wristlet of small size is 80 ; for 
 medium size, 85 ; large size, 90 ; and for gentlemen's, 95 to 100. 
 These numbers vary slightly with the pattern chosen and the tight- 
 ness of the knitting. Use Belding's " Superior" Knitting Silk and 
 No. 18 needles. 
 
 RAILROAD STOCKINGS. 
 
 Materials : 2£ ounces Belding's " Superior " Knitting Silk, and 
 four No. 18 needles. Cast on 96 stitches, 32 on each needle. Do 
 not knit a fancy top, nor even a ribbing, but knit round and round 
 without widening or narrowing until the stocking is about twenty- 
 six inches long. Drop every fourth stitch, and knit twenty rounds, 
 then toe off. Do not knit any heel. The dropped stitch must be 
 ravelled back to the top, thus making the stocking, which before 
 looked ridiculously small, large enough to fit any one. A hem may 
 now be turned down in the top, and caught lightly with sewing- 
 silk. Stockings knit in this fashion with yarn, used to be made for 
 children, but are very clumsy. With silk, however, it is quite a 
 different matter. The wearer's heel presses out for itself a heel in 
 the stockings, and they are particularly nice to wear with slippers, 
 
 I as the soft silk clings smoothly to the foot and ankle, adapting itself 
 
 | to every curve. 
 
 
 
o- 
 
 22 
 
 O 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 LADY'S MITTENS. 
 
 Materials : 1 ounce of Belding's " Superior" Knitting Silk and 
 four ordinary-sized steel knitting needles. 
 
 Cast on 66 stitches, 22 on 
 each needle ; knit 2 rounds 
 plain. 
 
 3d round. — Over, k. 2 to. Re- 
 peat until 1 round is 
 done. 
 4th round. — K., repeat 3d and 
 4th rounds until 12 rows 
 of holes are completed. 
 Knit 18 rounds plain. 
 Repeat 3rd and 4th rounds 
 until 9 rows of holes are com- 
 pleted. 
 
 Knit 14 rounds plain. 
 Repeat 3d and 4th rounds 
 until 6 rows of holes are com- 
 pleted. 
 
 Knit 10 rounds plain, then 
 commence to widen, thus : K. 
 1, k. 1, take up the back loop of 
 the stitch and knit, widening 
 one stitch. Each time you 
 widen there should be one 
 more stitch on the right hand 
 side of the increase. Widen 
 every third row until you have 
 eighteen stitches at the begin- 
 ning of the needle. These 
 eighteen stitches are to form 
 the thumb ; slip them on to 
 a piece of thread and tie them 
 firmly. Before joining the 
 work make three stitches. Join 
 and knit plain 15 rounds. 
 
 Repeat 3d and 4th rounds 
 until 3 rows of holes are com- 
 pleted. Knit one row plain. 
 Cast off. Take up the stitches left on the thread for the thumb, 
 making stitches where increased under the thumb until there are 24 
 all round. Put 8 on each needle and knit plain 15 rounds. Repeat 
 3d and 4th rounds until 3 rows of holes are completed. Knit 1 
 row plain and cast off. 
 
 Crochet Edge. — * 1 dc, 3 ch., 1 dc. into 3d of 3 ch., 1 dc. into 
 same, * 1 dc. into 2d hole. Repeat to finish the edge of mitten. For 
 crochet instructions, see page 39. 
 
 o- 
 
 i 
 
o- 
 
 -o 
 
 BEADING S KNITTIN'G SILKS. 
 
 23 
 
 LADY'S MITTENS. 
 
 Materials; 1 ounce seal brown, £ ounce scarlet Belding's 
 "Superior" Knitting Silk and 
 four No. 17 steel needles. 
 
 Cast on with the brown 
 silk, 80 stitches, (26 on two 
 needles, and 28 on the third,) 
 and knit around plain. Then, 
 1st round. — Over, si. and b., 
 
 over, si. andb., k. 2, over, 
 
 si. andb., over, si. and b. 
 
 Repeat. 
 2d and every alternate round. 
 
 —Plain.* 
 3d round. — Over, si. and b., 
 
 over, si. and b., over k. 2, 
 
 over, si. and b.. over, si. 
 
 and 1). Repeat. 
 5th round. — Over, si. and b., 
 
 over, si. and b. , k. 2, over, 
 
 si. 1, n., pass slipped over, 
 
 over, si. and b. Repeat. 
 7th round. — Over, si. and b., 
 
 over, k. 3, over, si. 1, n., 
 
 pass slipped over, over, si. 
 
 and b. Repeat. 
 9th round. — Over si. and b., 
 
 over, k. 4, n., over, si. and 
 
 1). Repeat. 
 11th round. — Over si. and b., 
 
 over, si. and b., k. 3, over, 
 
 si. and b., k. 1. Repeat. 
 
 Begin again at first round. 
 
 Repeat this pattern five or 
 six times, or until the wrist is 
 long enough. Knit once around, 
 narrowing once in every twenty 
 stitches, so as to leave seventy-six in all. Knit six rounds plain. Now 
 at the beginning of the first needle, knit one, widen, knit three, widen, 
 knit the rest of the round plain. (Widening, in silk, should always 
 be done by knitting one twist and one plain stitch in the same 
 loop.) Knit three rounds plain, then widen as before , but this 
 time knit five plain stitches between the widenings. Three plain 
 rounds, and Aviden with seven plain stitches between. Continue 
 in this way, widening in every fourth row and always adding two 
 plain stitches between the widenings, until you have eleven rows of 
 widenings. There should be twenty-three plain stitches between 
 the widenings in the last row. Slip these twenty- three stitches, 
 together with the one on each side, (twenty-five stitches in all,) off 
 
 e- 
 
 ■-o 
 
o -o 
 
 24 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 on a bit of twine, and tie them. Disregarding them for the present, 
 knit round and round plain forty-seven rounds. 
 
 Now beginning directly over the thumb stitches, that is, in a 
 direct line with them, knit five, narrow, knit four, narrow, knit four- 
 teen, narrow, knit four, narrow, knit ten, narrow, knit fourteen, 
 narrow, knit four, narrow, knit five. This completes one round. 
 Knit five rounds plain, and in the sixth round narrow again, directly 
 over the other narro wings. Knit four rounds plain and narrow as 
 before. Knit two rounds and narrow. Repeat three times more, 
 then knit one round narrowing after every alternate stitch. Slip 
 the remaining stitches on a bit of stout sewing silk and draw them 
 up tight, fastening the silk off on the wrong side. This makes a 
 better finish than can be produced by narrowing off all the stitches. 
 
 Put the thumb stitches back on the needles, picking up two 
 extra stitches from the hand, at the place where the gusset is 
 usually made. Knit plain twenty-six rounds, then knit three 
 stitches, narrow, repeat all round. Knit one round and narrow 
 again. Slip the stitches off on a bit of silk and draw up, as in the 
 hand. Now, with the scarlet silk, pick up all the "casting on" 
 stitches at the wrist and knit around plain until you have a scarlet 
 piece as long as the wrist of the mitten. Bind off very loosely and 
 hem it up for a lining to the wrist. 
 
 With a little care this can be done so that the hemming does not 
 show on the right side. The scarlet lining is very pretty, seen 
 through the open meshes of the wrist, and adds greatly to the 
 warmth of the mitten. A tiny bow of scarlet ribbon on the top of 
 the wrist is also a great improvement. This mitten is of medium 
 size, and can easily be altered to fit a very large or small hand. The 
 number of stitches for the pattern in the wrist must always be 
 divisible by ten. 
 
 GENTLEMAN'S MITTENS. 
 
 Materials: 1 J ounces Belding's "Superior" Knitting Silk, and 
 four No. 17 needles. Cast on 108 stitches. 
 1st and 2nd rounds. — K. 1, p. 5. Repeat. 
 3rd and 4th rounds. — K. 2, p. 3, k. 1. Repeat. 
 5th and 6th rounds. — K. 3, p. 1, k. 2. Repeat. 
 7th and 8th rounds. — P. 3, k. 1, p. 2. Repeat. 
 9th and 10th rounds.— P. 2, k. 3, p. 1. Repeat. 
 11th and 12th rounds. P. 1, k. 5. Repeat. 
 
 Repeat from first round, until the wrist is long enough. Then 
 knit two rounds plain, knit to the middle of a needle, purl one, 
 widen, knit /me, widen, purl one. Knit the rest of the round and 
 five subsequent rounds plain, except that the purled stitches must 
 always be purled. In the sixth round widen again inside of the 
 seam stitches. Repeat, widening every sixth round, until there are 
 thirty-seven stitches between the purled stitches. Slip these off on 
 a cord. 
 
 Cast on fifteen extra stitches between the purled stitches, and 
 knit around plain until the hand is long enough to reach the base 
 
 O —3 
 
o- 
 
 -o 
 
 BELDING S KNITTING SILKS. 
 
 25 
 
 of the third finger nail. (About three and a half inches.) Then 
 narrow at the beginning of each needle ; knit four rounds plain, 
 narrow, knit three rounds plain, narrow, two rounds plain, nar- 
 row, one round plain, narrow every time until but two stitches are 
 left. Draw the end of the silk through both, and fasten on the 
 wrong side. 
 
 Put the thumb stitches back on the needles, and also pick up 
 the fifteen cast on in the hand. Knit one plain round, then knit 
 these fifteen stitches off by twos, that is, always taking two together 
 in every round until all are taken off. Knit plain until the thumb 
 is long enough. Half the length of the hand from the division to 
 the point is a good rule. Narrow at the beginning of each needle 
 in every round until but two stitches are left, then finish as in the 
 hand. 
 
 LADY'S CUFFS. 
 
 G- 
 
 Materials : J ounce of Belding's "Superior" Knitting Silk of 
 any color preferred and three bunches of beads — black, steel or gold. 
 Thread the beads on the silk about 
 one-fourth at a time, as it will be 
 found difficult to work with all the 
 beads on the silk at once — to knit 
 with beads, put the needle through 
 the silk as for plain knitting, then 
 push one or as many beads as re- 
 quired close to the needle and knit as 
 usual. 
 
 Cast on 52 stitches. 
 1st row. — *K. 1, make a loop of 7 
 
 beads, k. 1, bead 2, k. 1, make 
 
 a loop of 7 beads, k. 1, * bead 4, 
 
 k. 2, beadl, k. 2, bead 7, k. 2, 
 
 bead 1. Knit the rest of the 
 
 row plain. 
 2d row. — Knit plain. 
 3d row. — K. 1, make a loop of 7 
 
 beads, k. 1, bead 2, k. 1, make 
 
 a loop of 7 beads k. 1, bead 3, 
 
 k. 2, bead 3, k. 2, bead 5, k. 
 
 "2, bead 3, k. 
 4th row. — Repeat 2d row. 
 5th row. — * Repeat first row, bead 2, 
 
 k. 2, bead 5, k. 2, bead 3, k. 2, 
 
 bead 5, k. 
 6th row. — Repeat 2d row. 
 7th row. — * Repeat first row, bead 1 k 
 
 2, bead 7, k. 
 
 This forms one pattern to be repeated 9 times ; if required larger, 
 add another pattern. 
 
 To finish the cuff, cast off as in ordinary knitting, turn the work 
 
 bead 7, k. 2, bead 1, k. 
 
 O 
 
o 
 
 26 
 
 o 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 on the wrong side and sew every stitch firmly together, taking care 
 that the beads in the diamonds are opposite each other. Instructions 
 for the crochet edge with which this cuff is finished will be found on 
 page 22, in the description of lady's mittens. 
 
 BABY'S MITTENS IN MOSS STITCH. 
 
 Materials: J ounce Belding's "Superior" Knitting Silk, and 
 
 two No. 17 needles. 
 
 Cast on 54 stitches. Knit back 
 and forth plain, (garter stitch,) 
 widening at the beginning of the 
 needle each alternate time across. 
 This keeps all the widenings on 
 the same edge. Continue until 
 there are sixty - four stitches on 
 the needle, then knit plain four 
 times each way, or eight rows in 
 all. Now narrow on the same edge 
 until there are but fifty-four stitches 
 again. Knit plain once each way. 
 This completes one-half the mit- 
 ten. 
 
 Begin widening again, and knit 
 the other half in the same way, but 
 in moss stitch. (One plain, one 
 purled alternately, and in the sec- 
 ond row purl the purled stitches 
 and knit the plain ones, so as to re- 
 verse the order on the right side, 
 thus giving a dotted appearance.) 
 It is also a good plan, in each half 
 of the mitten to make a hole (over, 
 narrow,) in every fourth row, two 
 stitches from the straight edge and also twenty -one stitches from 
 the same. Having completed the two halves, bind off and sew up, 
 leaving an opening for the thumb. 
 
 To make the thumb, cast on eleven stitches; knit one row plain, 
 then widen on both ends of the needle in every alternate round until 
 you have seventeen stitches. Knit twice each way, Emitting the 
 widening at the beginning of the needle, but continuing it at the 
 end. Then narrow at the beginning of the needle and widen at the 
 end, repeating until you have narrowed three times. Knit once 
 plain each way. This forms half of the thumb. Now widen at the 
 beginning of the needle and narrow at the end. Repeat until you 
 have widened three times, then knit twice each way, continuing to 
 narrow at the end of the needle in the alternate rows, but omit- 
 ting the widening at the beginning. Narrow three times at both 
 ends of the needle, and bind off. 
 
 The entire thumb should be knit in the moss stitch. Sew up 
 
 O 
 
 6 
 
belding's knitting silks. 27 
 
 the tliuml) part, and sew the triangular widened part, in the mit- 
 ten, placing it so that the top of the thumb will be even with the 
 hand where the latter begins to narrow. Run a narrow ribbon or a 
 bit of elastic braid through the two rows of holes in the wrist, fin- 
 ishing with a bow on top. A row of shells may be crocheted on the 
 wrist for a finish. This little mitten is easily enlarged to misses' 
 or ladies' size. If preferred it may be knit plain, and a fancy pat- 
 tern introduced on the back. 
 
 BABY'S SOCKS, 
 
 Materials: ^ ounc3 Beldtng's "Superior" Knitting Silk and 
 four No. 15 Knitting Needles. Cast on 65 stitches, on one needle, 
 
 and knit backwards and 
 
 forwards, plain, twice 
 
 each way, making four 
 
 rows in all. 
 5th row. — K. 1, over, * 
 
 k. 5, si. 1, k. 2 to, pass 
 
 slipped stitch over, k. 
 
 5, over, k 1, over, re- 
 peat from *. 
 6th row. — Purled. 
 
 Repeat these two rows 
 three times more, making 
 in all four rows of holes. 
 Knit plain, again, twice 
 each way, making a rib- 
 bed band as in the begin- 
 ♦ning. Repeat from the 
 5th row until you have 
 two divisions of four, 
 holes each, and three' 
 ribbed bands, including 
 the one at the beginning. 
 In the last row of the 
 
 last band, narrow once at each end of the needle, so as to leave but 
 63 stitches. 
 
 This completes the leg. Take off from each end, on the two 
 needles which have not, hitherto, been used, 21 stitches, leaving 21 in 
 the middle, for the top of the foot. Knit only these disregarding the 
 side needles for the present. 
 
 1st foot row. — K. 2, * over, k. 1, over, k. 2, si. 1, k. 2 to, pass 
 
 slipped stitch over, k. 2, repeat from * 
 This continues the pattern in the proper place, but gives two 
 extra stitches on the needle, which must be narrowed off by knitting- 
 two together at each end of the needle in purling back. Continue the 
 pattern until you have three divisions of four holes each, and two 
 ribbed bands. Now take up with the side needles, 14 stitches along 
 the sides of the foot-piece just knitted, making 85 stitches on each 
 
 o _ $ 
 
o 
 
 28 
 
 -o 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 side needle and 21 on the middle needle. Knit backwards and for- 
 wards on these three needies, alternating plain and purled rows in 
 such a way as to make three rows plain on the right side, then three 
 rows purled on the right side. Knit 15 rows, (three plain hands and 
 two purled ones). After this, narrow in every alternate row, at each 
 end of each side needle, and on each side of the middle stitch on the 
 middle needle. Continue until you have in all five plain bands, and 
 five purled ones. Bind off and sew up the sock. A narrow ribbon or 
 a cord and balls of the silk may be run in the holes at the ankle if 
 desired. 
 
 This is an old stitch, but a very pretty one, and the little socks will 
 be found particularly dainty and* well-shaped. A wry loose knitter 
 may use No. 16 needles, but a very tight knitter should take No. 14, 
 as the beauty of the stitch depends on its being loosely done. 
 
 FASCINATOR. 
 
 Materials : 2J ounces light old gold, 2J ounces dark scarlet Beld- 
 
 ixg's ** Superior " Knitting 
 Silk, and two No. 9 bone 
 needles. 
 
 Cast on 200 stitches, 
 using- a thread of each color. 
 The two spools may be used 
 at once, but a more conven- 
 ient way is to wind.the two 
 spools off on one before be- 
 ginning to knit. Knit back 
 and forth plain, but always 
 putting the thread twice in- 
 stead of once around the nee- 
 dle. Knit eleven times each 
 wav, or twenty-two rows in 
 all.' Slip half the stitches oil* 
 on a spare needle, and knit 
 back and forth on the remain- 
 ing half, thirty-six times 
 each way. Bind off as tightly 
 as possible. Knit up the 
 stitches from the spare needle in the same way. 
 
 You now have a very broad, but short piece, which is to form the 
 head, and two long strings. Crochet across the front of the head 
 piece (still using both colors at once), a border of treble crochet 
 stitches separated by one chain. Between the alternate trebles 
 crochet a shell of five long trebles, fastened by one double crochet 
 in the intervening spaces. 
 
 Now, crochet all around, except across the ends of the strings, 
 a border composed of ten chain, one single crochet on every alternate 
 row of the knitting along the sides, and on the centre of each shell in 
 
 o - ' 
 
BELDING S KNITTINO SILKS. 
 
 -o 
 
 29 
 
 Fascinator, (See page 38.) 
 
 O 
 
 O 
 
o o 
 
 30 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 front. In the second row, always ten chain, one double crochet on 
 the ten chain of the preceding round. Run a thread of the silk 
 across the front of the head-piece, just back of the crocheted border, 
 and draw it up, as on a shirring. Fasten by a bow of scarlet and 
 gold ribbon. Draw the ends of the strings up tight, and finish with 
 a tassel of the silk. A bit of scarlet or gold lining silk basted under 
 the head piece after it is drawn up will be a convenience, as it pre- 
 vents the hair being caught in the silk. This is a particularly elegant 
 fascinator, and always sets well, however the hair is dressed. For 
 crochet instructions see page 39. 
 
 SUSPENDERS IN GERMAN BRIOCHE STITCH. 
 
 Materials: -J ounce Beldtng's "Superior" Knitting Silk, and 
 two No. 17 knitting needles. Cast on 48 stitches and knit one row 
 plain . 
 
 gd mw — SI. 1, over, k. 2 together, repeat to the end of the row. 
 3d row< — K. 1, si. 1, over, k. 2 together, * si. 1, over, k. 2 together, 
 repeat from *. 
 
 Every succeeding row is like the third. Care should be taken 
 always to slip the stitch that was made by putting the thread over 
 in the previous row, and knit the stitch that was slipped before. 
 Two of these straps should be made, each 21 \ inches long. It is 
 not necessary to line them, as the stitch is so thick and elastic. 
 The short straps may be knitted if desired, but it is better to have 
 them made of leather. 
 
 MOSS EDGE. 
 
 Materials: Scraps of Belding's "Superior" Knitting or "Ken- 
 sington " Embroidery Silk, some fine twine or crochet cotton, and two 
 No. 18 knitting needles. 
 
 Cast on with the cotton 11 stitches, more or less according to the 
 width of the edge desired, but always an odd number, and knit 
 across once plain. 
 2d row. — Knit one, wind four threads of silk twice around the fore- 
 finger of the left hand, insert the right hand needle in the 
 next stitch and also in the silk, as though it were a stitch on 
 the needle, knitting both together, and slipping the silk oft* 
 the finger as the stitch is slipped off the needle. Repeat to 
 the end. 
 3d row. — Plain. Repeat these two rows until the edge is the desired 
 length. Then with sharp scissors clip all the silk loops, so as 
 to form an open fringe. 
 This edge improves with age, as the silk untwists, and forms a 
 thick, velvety surface, entirely concealing the cotton foundation. It 
 will be found very pretty for the edge of a lamp-mat, for instance, 
 and is a nice way of using up the odds and ends of silk that accum- 
 ulate so rapidly. The "colors may be put in "hit or miss," or 
 arranged to form a pattern. 
 
 o 
 
0- 
 
 BETjDING S KNTTTTNG STX.KS. 
 
 31 
 
 BABY'S SACK. 
 
 Materials: 1 ounce pink or blue, 2 ounces cream- white Beldtng's 
 " Superior" Knitting Silk and two No. 14 steel needles. 
 
 o 
 
 Cast on 281 stitches with the pink silk and knit 4 rows plain. (Twice 
 each way.) These four rows constitute a " rib," which is re- 
 peated after every division of the pattern. 
 
 5th row.— K. 1, over, k. 5, si. 1, k. 2 to., pass slipped over, k. 5, 
 over, repeat from beginning to end of row, ending with over. 
 k. 1. It is prettiest to throw the silk over twice at each 
 " over" throughout the sack, as it makes a larger " hole." 
 
 6th row. — Purled. 
 
 Repeat these two rows four times more, making in all five rows 
 
 of holes. This is one "division" of the pattern \h>ke another rib, 
 
 then a division of four rows of holes, followed by a third rib. Join 
 
 on the white silk. 
 
 1st row with white.— K. 1, over, k. 3, k. 2 to., si. 1, k. 2 to., pass 
 slipped over, k. 2 to. , k. 3, over, repeat, 
 This narrows on each side of every point. 
 
 2d row. — Purled. 
 
 3d row. — K. 1, over, k. 4, si. k. 2 to., pass slipped over, k. 4, over, 
 repeat. 
 Continue in this way, purling back, and knitting 4 plain stitches 
 
 on each side of the point until you have a division of four rows of 
 
 -G 
 

 
 32 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 holes. Make another rib. Join on the pink again, and knit four 
 rows of holes and a rib, then four rows of holes with the white fol- 
 lowed by a pink rib. Join on the white. 
 1st white row after the pink rib.— K. 1, over, k. 2, k. 2 to., si. 1, 
 
 k. 2 to pass slipped over, k. 2 to., over, repeat. 
 2d row. — Purled. 
 
 3d row. — K. 1, over, k. 3, si. 1, k. 2 to., pass slipped over, k. 3, 
 over, repeat. 
 Continue as before, knitting 3 plain stitches on each side of the 
 point until you have two divisions, three rows of holes in each, and 
 the ribs. After completing the last rib, take off on a spare needle 
 55 stitches (5| points) from the end of the needle. These are to be 
 knit up for one front. Disregard the rest of the stitches for the 
 time, and knit backwards and forwards on these. Watch the pattern 
 rows to keep the work from widening in the armhole. Where there 
 is one more ' ' over " stitch than is provided for by the point, it must 
 be narrowed off in the armhole. A slight examination of the pattern 
 will make this clear. 
 
 Make four divisions of three rows of holes each, aDd the ribs. 
 The last rib begins the shoulder, and the work must now be nar- 
 rowed once on the shoulder edge in every alternate row, until the 
 end. This narrowing is in addition to that required by the pattern, 
 and must be continued through the ribs,»so as to give a uniform 
 slope. 
 
 For the shoulder make the rib which begins, it, two divisions of 
 three rows of holes, a rib between and following them, a division of 
 two rows of holes and half a rib. Then in the third row of the rib 
 knit always 1 plain, over, k. 2 to. , repeat to the end of row. Knit 
 back plain and bind off. The other front and the back are knit up 
 in the same way, remembering in the back to narrow on each 
 shoulder. 
 
 For the collar, cast on 161 stitches with the pink silk and knit a 
 rib. 
 
 1st division row. — K. 1, over, k. 3., si. 1, k. 2 to., pass slipped over, 
 k. 3, over, Repeat. Make a division of three rows of holes. 
 Join on the white and make the rib. In the first pattern row 
 narrow on each side of every point as in the body. Make a 
 division of 3 rows of holes, then a rib with a row of holes all 
 along, as in the neck of the body ; bind off. * After sewing up 
 the shoulders, lay the collar on the body and run a cord or 
 narrow ribbon through the two rows of holes. 
 For the sleeves, cast on with the pink 85 stitches, and make a 
 rib. The first division is like the first in the body — five plain stitches 
 on each side of the point. Make a division of five rows of holes and 
 a rib, join on the white, make a similar division and rib, join on the 
 pink, and in the first row narrow on each side of every point. Make 
 four rows of holes, join on the white, make the rib, two, or for a 
 long sleeve, three divisions of three rows of holes each, end with a 
 rib and bind off. This makes a very elastic sack, which will not be 
 outgrown in a long time, and is durable enough to serve two or three 
 successive babies. 
 
 6- G 
 
O- 
 
 O 
 
 BELDING S KNITTING SILKS. 
 
 33 
 
 BABY'S CAP. 
 
 Materials: 1 ounce Belding's " Superior" Knitting Silk, and 
 eight No. 17 needles. 
 
 Cast on 7 stitches on three 
 needles (two on two needles, three 
 on the third.) 
 1st round. — Over, k. 1, repeat to 
 
 the end of the round. 
 2d round. — Plain. 
 3d round. — Over, k. 2. Repeat. 
 4th round. — Plain. 
 5th round. — Over, k. 3. liepeat. 
 6th round. — Plain. 
 
 Continue in this way until 
 there are 12 stitches between each 
 over stitch. Make every alternate 
 row plain, and the last row plain. 
 This gives 24 rounds. 
 25th round. — * Over, k. 1, over, k. 
 
 1, over, k. 2 to., over, k. 2 to., 
 
 over, k. 2 to., over, si. 1, k. 2 
 
 to. , pass slipped stitch over. 
 
 Repeat. 
 26th and every alternate round, plain. 
 27th round. — Over, k. 3, over, k. 2, over, k. 2 to., over, k. 2 to., over, 
 
 k. 2 to., over, si. 1, k. 2 to., pass slipped stitch over. 
 29th round.— Over, k. 5, over, k. 1, over, k. 2 to., over, k. 2 to., over, 
 
 k. 2 to., over, si. 1, k. 2 to., pass slipped stitch over. 
 31st round. — Over, k. 7, over, k. 2, over, k. 2 to., over, k. 2 to. 
 
 si. 1, k. 2 to., pass slipped stitch over. Repeat. 
 33d round. — Over, k. 9, over, k. 1, over, k. 2 to., over, k. 2 to. 
 
 si. 1, k. 2 to., pass slipped stitch over. Repeat. 
 35th round. — Over, k. 11, over, k. 2, over, k. 2 to., over, si. 1, k. 2 to. 
 
 pass slipped stitch over. Repeat. 
 37th round. — Over, k. 13, over, k. 1, over, k. 2 to., over, si. 1, k. 
 
 to. , pass slipped stitch over. Repeat. 
 39th round. — Over, k. 15, over, k. 2, 
 
 stitch over. Repeat. 
 41st round. — Over, k. 17, over, k. 1, 
 
 stitch over. Repeat. 
 43d round. — Over, k. 19, over, si. 
 
 Repeat. 
 45th round. — Over, k. 21. Repeat. 
 47th round. — Over, si. and b., k. 1. 
 49th and 50th rounds. — Purled. 
 51st round. — Plain. 
 
 This completes the crown. The pattern being a star with seven 
 points, it will be found most convenient, after the 24th row, to use 
 double the usual number of needles, one for each point, and one to 
 knit with, thus keeping the work flat. Having completed the crown, 
 
 over, 
 
 over, 
 
 over, si. 1, k. 2 to., pass slipped 
 1, over, si. 1, k. 2 to., pass slipped 
 1, k. 2 to., pass slipped stitch over. 
 
 Repeat. 
 
 -3 
 
o- 
 
 o 
 
 34 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 reserve 105 stitches, distributing them on four or five needles, as is 
 most convenient, and bind off the rest. These 105 stitches are for 
 the front, and are to be knit back and forth, like a straight piece. 
 1st r ow.— P. 2, over, k. 2., si, 1, k. 1, pass slipped stitch, over, k. 1. 
 
 Repeat. 
 2d row.— K. 5, p. 2. Repeat. 
 
 These two rows form the pattern, and each is to be knitted 
 twelve times, making twenty-four rows in all . 
 25th and 26th rows .—Plain . 
 27th row.— Over, si. and b., k. 1. Repeat. 
 
 28th, 29th and 30th rows.— Plain. Bind off and finish all round with 
 any pretty knitted or crocheted edge. The one shown in the 
 illustration is described on page 50. 
 
 Run a ribbon in the row of holes around the crown, finishing 
 with a bow on top of the head, and another one in the row of holes 
 across the front, leaving ends to tie under the chin. 
 
 Materials 
 four No. 17 needles. 
 Cast on 40 stitches. 
 
 LONG PURSE. 
 | ounce Belding's "Superior" 
 
 Knitting Silk, and 
 
 The most convenient way to distribute them 
 
 is to put 14 on the first needle, 
 
 12 on the second, and 14 on the 
 
 third. Knit once around plain. 
 
 1st round. — P. 10, tw. 2, p. 2, tw. 
 2, p. 2, tw. 2. Repeat. 
 
 2d round. — Like first. 
 
 3d round.— K. 10, tw. 2, p. 2, tw. 
 2, p. 2, tw. 2. Repeat. 
 
 4th round.— Like third. 
 
 5th and 6th rounds. — Like first. 
 
 7th and 8th rounds.— Like third. 
 
 9th and 10th rounds.— Like first. 
 
 11th and 12th rounds.— Like third. 
 
 13th and 14th rounds.— Tw. 2, p. 
 2, tw. 2, p. 2. tw. 2, p. 10. Re- 
 peat. 
 
 15th and 16th rounds.— Tw. 2, p. 
 2, tw. 2, p. 2, tw. 2, k, 10. Re- 
 peat. 
 
 17th and 18th rounds.— Like thir- 
 teenth. 
 
 19th and 20th rounds. — Like four- 
 teenth. 
 
 21st and 22d rounds. — Like thir- 
 teenth. 
 
 23d and 24th rounds. — Like four- 
 teenth. 
 
 Repeat these twenty-four rounds twice more, making seventy- 
 two rounds in all, then knit once around plain. In the next round 
 
 o- 
 
 O 
 
BELDING S KNITTING SILKS. 
 
 35 
 
 -o 
 
 knit the first two stitches plain, then always over, knit two together, 
 to the end, knitting the last two plain. Instead of going on around, 
 purl back over the three needles. Knit back and forth in this way 
 until you have a piece about two inches and a half long. Then 
 instead of purling back, knit all the way around once more plain. 
 Resume the pattern and knit it three times. Bind off, draw the ends 
 together and finish with a bead tassel. This purse looks very small 
 before using, but the stitch is so extremely elastic that it will be 
 found quite large enough for practical purposes. Happy is she who 
 can fill it. 
 
 For a non-elastic pattern, knit with four needles; from fifty to 
 sixty stitches should be cast on, and the purse should measure ten 
 or twelve inches in length. Au easier way is to cast on from one 
 hundred to one hundred and fifty stitches, and knit a fiat piece 
 about nine inches long. Bind off and sew it up, leaving a slit in 
 the middle. One color of silk may be used throughout, or it may 
 be knit in stripes of different colors. Black, with narrow stripes of 
 gold, is very pretty. 
 
 CHECKERED HOLDER. 
 
 CD- 
 
 Materials for four : i ounce white and £ ounce red, Belding's 
 "Superior" Knitting Silk, 
 and four No. 15 knitting 
 needles. 
 
 Cast on with the red 
 silk, 102 stitches, knit back 
 and forth, in common garter 
 stitch 10 times each way, or 
 twenty rows in all. 
 
 21st row. — Knit 16, join 
 on the white, without cutting 
 off the red, knit 10 white, 
 then purl 10 with red, draw- 
 ing the silk across at the back as tightly as possible, so as to draw the 
 white stitches all in a bunch on the needle, 10 with white again, 
 drawing the silk tight as before. Repeat until you have four groups 
 of white and three of red stitches. Finish the remaining 16 in red, 
 knit plain. These 16 stitches at each end of the needle are for a 
 border, and must always be knit plain each way. 
 
 22d row. — After knitting the 16 plain, purl the white ones with 
 white, and knit the red ones with red. These two rows form the 
 pattern. After every ten rows, the colors must be alternated, so as 
 to bring red blocks above white ones, and white blocks above red 
 ones. Keep the crossing threads carefully on the wrong side, and 
 always draw them as tightly as possible across the intervening spaces. 
 The effect of this is to draw the blocks into little puffs or flirtings,' 
 and make the holder when completed, double itself naturally, instead 
 of lying flat. The wrong-side-out effect produced by purling the red 
 blocks over the white, may be avoided by knitting the first row plain, 
 each time the colors are alternated. Seven blocks each way complete 
 
O- o 
 
 36 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 the square, after which there must be twenty rows of red, as in the 
 beginning. Bind oft', and finish with any pretty crocheted edge. The 
 one shown in the illustration is described on page 44. 
 
 This is a very saleable little article at fairs, and is so quickly and 
 easily made as to be a real boon to ladies who are frequently called 
 upon to furnish " something pretty for the fancy table." A silk 
 holder may be a novelty, but some of its advantages will be readily 
 apparent. * Not a small one is, that as silk is a non-conductor of heat 
 the protection ? lorded the hand is perfect. The gleam of the silk 
 will be appropria-e with a silver tea-service. A lining of thin silk 
 is a desirable addition. 
 
 INSERTION. 
 Cast on 19 stitches. 
 
 1st row. — Plain. 
 
 2d, 4th, 6th and 8th rows.— Plain. 
 
 3d row.— K. 2, over, n., over, k. 1, over, si. 1, k. 3 together, pass 
 slipped over, over, k. 1, over, si. 1, k. 3 together, pass slipped 
 over, over, k. 1, over, n., over, k. 2. 
 
 5th row.— K. 2, over, n., over, k. 3, over, si. 1, k. 4 together, pass 
 slipped over, over, k. 3, over, n. , over, k. 2. 
 
 7th row.— K. 2, over, n., over, k. 1, si. 1, k. 2 together, pass slipped 
 over, k. 1, over, k. 1, over, k. 1, si. 1, k. 2 together, pass slip- 
 ped over, k. 1, over, n., over, k. 2. After the eighth row, re- 
 peat from first. This makes a pretty, broken pattern. By 
 omitting the first and second rows, and purling the alternate 
 rows, what is called " wheat ear " is produced. Half an ounce 
 of Belding's " Superior" Knitting Silk will make a little over 
 a yard of this insertion. 
 
 NARROW LACE. 
 
 Oast on 9 stitches. 
 1st row.— SI. 1, k. 2, over, n., k. 3, over, k. 1. 
 2d, 4th and 6th rows.— Purled. 
 3d row.— SI. 1, k. 3, over, n., k. 3, over, k. 1. 
 5th row.— SI. 1, k. 4, over, n., k. 3, over, k. 1. 
 7th row. — Plain. 
 
 8th row. — Bind off 3, purl the rest. 
 9th row. — Like first. 
 10th and 12th rows.— Purled. 
 11th row.— SI. 1, k. 3, over, n., k. 4. 
 13th row.— SI. 1, k. 4, over, n., k. 2, over, k. 1. 
 14th row.— SI. 1, p. 1 and k. 1 in the " over " stitch, p. the rest. 
 15th row. — Like seventh. 
 16th row.— Like eighth. Repeat from first row. 
 
 Half an ounce of Belding's " Superior" Knitting Silk will make 
 about three yards of this lace. 
 
 
 
 <D 
 
37 
 
 LACE. 
 
 Materials: Any color of Beldijnu s ''Superior" Knitting Silk 
 suitable for the article required. 
 
 Cast on 14 stitches. 
 1st row.— K. 2, * over, k. 2 to., * 4 times, over, p. 2 to., k. 2. 
 2d row.— SI. 1, k. 1, over, p. 2 to., k. to the end of row. Repeated 
 
 row alternately to the end of the pattern. 
 3d row.— SI. 1, k. 1, over, k. 1, * 2 to., * over, k. 2 to., * :>> times, 
 
 k. 1, over, p. 2 to., k. 2. 
 5th row.— SI. 1, k. 1, over, k. 1, * over, k. 2 to., * 3 times, k. 2 over 
 
 p. 2 to., k. 2. 
 7th row.— SI. 1, k. 1, over, k. 1, * over, k. 2 to., * 3 times, k. 3, 
 
 over, p. 2 to., k. 2. 
 9th row.— SI. 1, k. 1, over, k. 1, * over, k. 2 to., * 3 times, k. 4, over 
 
 p. 2 to., k. 2. 
 11th row.— SI. 1, k. 1, over, k. 1, * over, k. 2 to., * 3 times, k. 5, 
 
 over, p. 2 to., k. 2. 
 13th row.— SI. 1, k. 1, over, k. 1, * over, k. 2 to., * 3 times, k. 6, 
 
 over, p. 2 to., k. 2. 
 J5th row.— SI. 1, k. 1, over, k. 1, * over, k. 2 to., * 3 times, k. 7, 
 
 over, p. 2 to., k. 2. 
 17th row.— SI. 1 k. 1, over, k. 1, * over, k. 2 to., * 3 times, k. 8, 
 
 over, p. 2 to., k. 2. 
 19th row.— SI. 1, k. 1, over, k. 1, * over, k. 2 to., < f 3 times, k. 9, 
 
 over, p. 2 to., k. 2. 
 21st row.— SI. 1, k. 1, over, k. 1, * over, k. 2 to., * 3 times, k. 10, 
 
 over, p. 2 to., k. 2. 
 23d row.— SI. 1, k. 1, over, k. 1, * over, k. 2 to., * 3 times, k. 11, 
 
 over, p. 2 to., k, 2. 
 25th row.— SI. 1, k. 2 to., * over, k. 2 to., * 4 times, k. 10, over, p. 2 
 
 to., k. 2. 
 27th row.— SI. 1, k. 2 to., * over, k. 2 to., * 4 times, k. 9, over, p. 2 
 
 to., k. 2. 
 29th row.— SI. 1, k. 2 to., * over, k. 2 to., * 4 times, 8, over, p. 2 
 
 to., k. 2. 
 31st row.— SI. 1, k. 2 to., - over, k. 2 to., * 4 times, k. 7, over, p. 2 
 
 to., k. 2. 
 33d row.— SI. 1, k. 2 to., * over, k. 2 to., * 4 times, k. 6, over, p 2 
 
 to., k. 2. 
 
 o __ 
 
o- 
 
 38 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 o 
 
 35th row.— SI. 1, k. 2 to., * over, k. 2 to., * 4 times, k. 5, over p 2 
 
 to., k. 2. 
 37th row.— SI. 1, k. 2 to., * over, k. 2 to., * 4 times, k. 4, over p 2 
 
 to., k. 2. 
 39th row.— SI. 1, k. 2 to., * over, k. 2 to., * 4 times, k. 3, over p 2 
 
 to., k. 2. F ' 
 
 41st row.— SI. 1, k. 2 to., * over, k. 2 to., * 4 times, k. 2, over, p. 2 
 
 to., k. 2. 
 43d row.— SI. 1, k. 2 to., * over, k. 2 to., * 4 times, k. 1, over p 2 
 
 to., k. 2. ' F ' 
 
 44th row.— SI. 1, k. 1, over, p. 2 to., k. Repeat from first row. 
 
 To finish the lace refer to crochet edge in instructions for lady's 
 mittens, on page 22. 
 
 SAW TOOTH EDGING. 
 
 Cast on 10 stitches, knit across plain. 
 2d row.— K. 6, over, n., (knit 2 together), k. 1, over, k. 1. 
 3d and every alternate row. — Purled. 
 4th row. — K. 5, over, n., k. 1, over, k. 3. 
 6th row. — K. 4. over, n., k. 1, over, k. 5. 
 8th row.— K, 3, over, n., k. 1, over, k. 3, over, n., k. 2. 
 10th row.— K. 2, over, n., k. 1, over, k, 4, over, n., k. 3. 
 12th row. — K. 1, over, n., k. 1, over, k 
 14th row. — K. 3, over, k. 6, over, n., k 
 16th row. — K. 2, over, k. 7, over, n., k 
 
 k. 4. 
 
 over, n. 
 5, over, n. 
 5. 
 6. 
 
 Repeat from * to end of row. 
 Repeat. 
 
 18th row. — K. 1, over, k. 1, * over, n. 
 20th row. — K. 2, over, k. 1, * over, n. 
 21st row. — Bind off 10 stitches, purl 10. 
 22d row. — Plain. 
 23d row. — Purled. Repeat from 2d row. 
 
 Half an ounce of Belding's ''Superior" Knitting Silk will 
 make two yards of this edging. Use No. 17 needles. It is particu- 
 larly pretty for flannel skirts if knit of white Saxony, and a narrow 
 silk edge crocheted around the points. 
 
 0- 
 
o- o 
 
 H II II i II !i i I i i I I I I 
 
 EXPLANATION OF TERMS USED. 
 
 Ch.— Chain. 
 
 Sc. — Single Crochet. Having a stitch on the needle, put the 
 needle through the work and draw the silk through both the work 
 and the stitch on the needle. 
 
 Dc. — Double Crochet. Having a stitch on the needle, put the 
 needle through the work and draw a stitch through, making two on 
 the needle. Take up the silk again and draw it through both these 
 stitches. 
 
 Tc. or Tr. — Treble Crochet. Having a stitch on the needle, 
 take up the silk as if for a stitch, put the needle through the work 
 and draw a stitch through, making three on the needle. Take up 
 the silk and draw through two, then take up again and draw through 
 the two remaining. 
 
 Stc. or Str. — Short Treble Crochet. Like treble, except that 
 when the three stitches are on the needle, instead of drawing the 
 silk through two stitches twice, it is drawn through all three at 
 once. 
 
 Ltc. or Ltr. — Long Treble Crochet. Like treble, except that 
 the silk is thrown twice over the needle before inserting the latter 
 in the work. The stitches are worked off two at a time, as in treble. 
 
 * — Indicates a repetition, and is used merely to save words. 
 '* * 2ch., 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 tr., repeat three times," would be equivalent 
 to saving, " 2 ch., 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 tr., 2 ch., 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 tr., 2 ch., 
 2 tr. * 1 ch., 2 tr., 2 ch., 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 tr." 
 
 ■6 
 
0- 
 
 40 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 PUFFED WRISTLETS. 
 
 Superior" Knitting Silk, and a 
 
 J ounce Belding's 
 
 Materials 
 coarse crochet hook 
 
 Make a chain of 73 stitches and join in a round. Then, working 
 one stitch on each stitch of the foundation, make* 1 dc. , 1 stc. , 1 tc. , 
 1 ltc, 1 tc, 1 stc, 1 dc, 1 sc Repeat to the end of the round.' Each 
 round is the same, taking care always to keep each stitch directly 
 above the same kind of stitch in the preceding round. Thus, every 
 sc stitch will he made on a sc, every dc on a dc, etc, forming a 
 series of puffs. Continue until the wristlet is of the desired length. 
 About twenty four rows will make a medium size. As the pattern is 
 in eight stitches, the number of stitches in the chain must always be 
 divisible by eight, with one over for joining. 
 
 MISER'S PURSE. 
 
 Materials: -J ounce Belding's "Superior" Knitting Silk, one 
 bunch cut steel beads, and a fine crochet hook. 
 
 This pretty purse is sometimes made in one piece, but is then exceed- 
 ingly troublesome to work. 
 We therefore give directions 
 for making it in two parts to 
 be sewed together. The 
 effect is the same and the 
 work much easier. 
 
 Make a chain of 212 
 stitches, and work on it a 
 row of trebles, always sepa- 
 rated by one chain, and miss- 
 ing one chain of the foun- 
 dation. Make 46 trebles, 120 
 chain, and cut off the silk. 
 Repeat until you have 11 
 rows of the trebles, each row 
 ending with 120 chain. Fold 
 the strip thus made together, 
 letting the end with the 
 chains come to 6 trebles, or 
 about an inch, from the other end, which is to make the flap. 
 Crochet the long edges together with a row of single crochet, 
 and put a row of trebles across the double end, and also across the 
 end of the flap. Put the chains through the back of the bag thus 
 made, one chain between every row of trebles, except in the middle, 
 where there will be two chains. Now make another bag precisely 
 the same, except that the chains are omitted. Pass the chains from 
 the first bag through the back of the second bag and sew them neatly 
 to the front. The illustration shows the appearance when complete. 
 Put a bead fringe across the ends of the bags, and a purse ring to 
 confine the chains. These purses are very handsome in black silk, 
 with black and gold or black and steel beads. One ounce of Bel- 
 ding's " Superior" Knitting Silk will make three purses. 
 

 
 BELDING S KNITTING SILKS. 
 
 41 
 
 o 
 
 LADY'S NORMANDY CAP. 
 
 Materials : 3 ounces of Belding's " Superior" Knitting Silk and 
 a coarse steel crochet needle. 
 
 o 
 
 Make 114 ch. 
 1st row.— One ch., 1 dc, * 3 ch., 3 tr. into 1 da, 1 dc. into 4th ch. * 
 
 Repeat to the end of the row. 
 2d row. — 1 ch., 1 dc. over dc. in last row, 3 ch, 3 tr. into same dc, 1 
 dc. over next dc. Repeat. 
 Repeat second row twenty-four times. 
 There should be twenty-eight shells across the cap. 
 85th row. — Make twelve shells, then narrow thus: Instead of making 
 3 ch. and 3 tr. , pass the needle to the next dc. stitch and draw 
 
 o 
 
0- ■ -0 
 
 I 42 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 tliem together. This will make one shell less in the row. 
 Make two more shells and repeat the narrowing, finishing the 
 row as usual. Five plain rows of shells. 
 31st row. — Make eleven shells, then narrow as in twenty-fifth row. 
 Five plain rows of shells. 
 i 37th row. — Make ten shells and narrow as in the twenty-fifth row. 
 
 Five plain rows of shells. 
 j 43d row. — Make nine shells and narrow as in twenty-fifth row. 
 
 Three plain rows of shells. 
 | 47th row. — Make eight shells and narrow as in twenty-fifth row. 
 Three plain rows of shells. 
 5 1st row. — Make seven shells and narrow as in twenty-fifth row. 
 
 Two plain rows of shells. 
 54th row. — Make seven shells and narrow two shells together. Finish 
 the row with seven shells. 
 ! 5oth row. — Make seven shells 2 dc. over the two shells that were nar- 
 rowed on last row. Finish with seven shells. 
 56th row. — Make six shells, miss two and join together. Finish with 
 I six shells. 
 
 Place the two sides of the cap together and sew, sewing the two 
 shells that were missed in the last row. Fasten the silk into the 
 eighth row from the joining on the top of the head, and make 2 tr. 
 into each row until you get to the eighth row on the opposite side 
 of the joining. 
 
 Commence at the front of the cap, working all round, allowing 2 
 tr. for each row. 
 
 For the mesh at the ne.ck, turn the thread over the needle three 
 
 times as in 1 tr. , one chain between each, allowing two for each mesh. 
 
 < 1 ape. — 1st ro* \ — 3 ch., * 1 dc, over 1 tr., 2ch.,l dc. over 
 
 next tr. 3 times, 4 ch., 1 dc. into next treble. * Repeat. 
 
 2d row. — 3 tr. under the 3 ch., keep the top loop on the hook and 
 
 draw through altogether, 2 ch. repeat once, 1 ch., 1 tr. worked 
 
 under second two ch. of last row, 2 ch. , 1 tr. under same, 4 ch., 
 
 1 tr. under same, 2 ch. , 1 tr. under same, * 1 tr. into second 2 
 ch. of last row, 1 ch., 1 tr. under next 4 ch., two clusters of 3 
 tr., 4 chain, 2 clusters of 3 tr., 1 ch. , 1 tr. into second 2 ch. of 
 last row. * Repeat. 
 
 3d row. — Same as second. 
 
 4th row. — 3 tr. between first 2 ch. between the clusters of last row, 
 
 2 clusters of 3 tr. under four chain, 4 chain, two clusters sep- 
 arated by 2 ch., under same, 4 ch., 2 ch., 1 cluster under next 
 2 ch., 1 ch., 1 tr. under 1 ch., 2 tr. separated by 2 ch., under 
 next 4 ch., 4 ch., 2 tr. separated by 2 ch., under same 4 ch., 1 
 tr. under next, 1 chain, 1 chain. Repeat. 
 
 Repeat, making the cape fourteen rows in depth, increasing every 
 second row by making one more cluster of trebles each side the point 
 containing the clusters. 
 
 Finish edge off by making 1 dc. , 3 ch. , 3 tr. into same. Repeat 
 all round. 
 
 TRIMMING. Make 221 chain," 1 dtl., 2 chain, miss 2 into 3 
 ch.* Repeat. 
 
 o — . .© 
 
©- 
 
 ■0 
 
 BELDING S KNITTING SILKS. 
 
 43 
 
 *1 dc, 9 dtl. in second dtl., 1 dc. into second dtl.* Repeat on 
 both sides. 
 
 Make tr. , over fonr shells at the top of the back and make shells 
 of 9 tr. as described, forming double row of shells at the back. 
 
 Edge.—* 1 dc, 3 c, 1 dc. into 3d of 3 ch., 1 dc. into same,* 
 repeat six times, then into next shell. 
 
 Three yards of ribbon are required for the cap, and one half yard 
 of lining. 
 
 BABY'S HOOD. 
 Materials : 1 ounce of Belding's " Superior 
 
 Knitting Silk, 
 hook. 
 5 chain, 
 
 and 
 
 o- 
 
 a coarse steel 
 
 Cast on 5 cnain, join. 
 1st row. — 16 tr. into the 5 ch. 
 2d row. — 2 tr. into every one. 
 3d row. — 2 tr. into every third. 
 4th row. — Turn the work and make 
 * 5 tr. in the back loop of 
 third, tr., miss 1, and make 1 
 dc. into 2d loop ; miss 2 and 
 make 5 tr. in 3d. ; repeat all 
 round; turn the work back 
 again. 
 5th row. — 2 tr. into every third. 
 6th row. — 2 tr. into every fourth. 
 7th row. — 2 tr. into every fifth. 
 8th row. — Turn the work and repeat 
 
 4th row, (turn the work.) 
 9th row. — 2 tr. into every sixth. 
 10th row.— 2 tr. into every eighth. 
 11th row. — 2 tr. into every twelfth. 
 12th row. — Turn the work and repeat 4th row. 
 13th row. — 2 tr. into every fifteenth. 
 
 14th row. — ldc, miss 2, 5 tr. into 3d loop, miss 1, 1 dc. ; repeat 
 
 for 3 rows, making the shells fall between each other. 
 
 17th row. — Commence between 2d and 3d shells from the joining of 
 
 the crown, 1 tr. over the dc. of last row, 2 ch. 1 dc. in 3 tr. of 
 
 shell ; repeat until 4 shells of the crown are left, then turn, 
 
 leaving the 4 shells to form the neck. 
 
 18th row. — 1 ltc. over tr., 2 ch., 1 ltc. over dc. ; repeat. 
 
 19th row. — Repeat 14th row, letting shells and dc. fall on ltc. of last 
 
 row ; repeat 6 rows more. 
 26th row. — Repeat 17th row. 
 
 Commence to form the cape. 
 1st row. — Repeat 14th row except where the crown joins the head ; 
 make 7 tr. instead of five, and also in the center of the crown at 
 back. 
 2d row. — After turning the work make 2 ch, then 5 tr. into first dc, 
 stitch 1 dc. into center of first shell ; repeat ; when at the shells 
 which contain 7 tr. make 5 tr. between 1 dc. into 2 ch., 5 tr., 1 
 
 O 
 
_ — 
 
 44 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 dc. into 2 ch., 5 tr, as usual between the two shells ; this in- 
 creases the row 2 shells more, as the 7tr. should be in each cor- 
 ner of the crown ; finish the row as you commence. 
 3d row.— Turn and make 2 ch., 3 tr. over 1st tr. of last row, miss 1 
 ch. 1 dc, 5 tr. into dc. between shells, in the center of the row, 
 make the shell 7 tr. to widen ; repeat to the end. 
 
 4th row.— Turn 1 dc. over 1st tr., 5 ch., 1 dc. into center of next shell; 
 repeat ; repeat the widenings at the end of each row, of the last 
 3 rows, until the cape is finished. 
 The cape contains 10 rows ; widen by making the 7 tr. and the 1 
 
 extra shell above it, as shown in 2d row. 
 
 5th row. — Widen twice in this row. 
 
 6th row. — Plain shells. 
 
 7th row. — Widen once. 
 
 8th row. — Plain shells. 
 
 9th row. — Widen twice. 
 
 10th row. — Plain shells. 
 
 For edge trimming make shells containing 7 tr. round entire cap. 
 
 Last row.— 1 dc. into 2 tr., 1 dc. into 3 tr., 3 ch. 1 dc. into same ; 
 
 treble 1 dc. into next tr., 3 ch., 1 dc. into the same, tr. 1 dc. into 
 
 next, tr., 3 ch., 1 dc, into same, tr. 1 dc. into next tr., then 
 
 1 dc. into 2d tr. of next shell ; repeat all around. 
 
 The cap can be lined with silk or an under cap of double split 
 
 zephyr, plain treble stitches; and may be trimmed with either ribbon 
 
 or cord of the silk, and tassels, as per sample. 
 
 To make the cord, wrap the silk a yard in length ten times over 
 
 a nail without head, then roll it on the lap until tightly twisted ; hold 
 
 it firmly in the center and take the silk off the nail ; hold the two^nds 
 
 firmly together, keeping hold of the center ; let the center go, after 
 
 twisting it slightly to commence the cord, and the cord will be 
 
 finished. Run the cord round the front and after fastening at each 
 
 end inside, and adding tassels, tie in loops on the top ; sew the loops 
 
 to keep in place ; one and three-quarters yards of ribbon to run 
 
 through the mesh ; bow at the back and strings. 
 
 EDGE. 
 Make a chain the required length, and work on it a row of shells, 
 4 treble in each shell and 1 chain between, missing 1 chain of the 
 foundation between each shell. The second row is the same, putting 
 each shell directly over the shell in the preceding row. This may 
 all be done in white silk. Now take colored silk, make a shell on 
 the first shell of the preceding row, 2 chain, 1 sc on the chain be- 
 tween the first and second shells in the preceding row, 3 chain, 1 sc. 
 on the chain between the first and second shells in the first row, 3 
 chain, 1 sc. on the chain of the foundation which was missed between 
 the first and second shells, 3 chain, 1 sc on the chain between the 
 first and second shells in the first row, 3 chain, 1 sc on the chain 
 between the first and second shells in the second row, 2 chain, 1 shell 
 on the second shell in the second row, etc. This edge is shown in 
 the Checkered Holder, described on page 35. Half an ounce of 
 _ _£ 
 
o 
 
 -o 
 
 BELDING S KNITTING SILKS. 
 
 45 
 
 each color of Belding's "Superior" Knitting Silk will make about 
 four and one-half yards, using rather a coarse hook. The writer once 
 saw a baby's cashmere sack with this edge crocheted around it, omit- 
 ting the foundation chain and putting the needle right through the 
 cashmere. The effect was very pretty. 
 
 LADY'S COLLAR. 
 
 Take an ordinary-sized knitting needle, and heat it in the 
 center, holding both ends; when sufficiently heated bend until lh 
 inches apart, being the same width from the bend to the end of the 
 needle. 
 
 G> 
 
 To commence, make a stitcn as if to commence a chain; hold the 
 bent needle in the left hand, having the crochet needle with the 
 stitch on it in the center of the bent needle, letting the silk go round 
 the needle to the right, underneath, catching it up to the stitch in 
 the center which is drawn once through; turn the bent needle always 
 to left, letting the thread go underneath and catch with the stitch 
 that is on the crochet needle, then 1 dc. in the silk on the left side ; 
 turn the needle and repeat. This work is similar to " hair pin," only a 
 wider mesh is required. 
 
 As the needle gets filled push the work down toward the curve 
 until filled, then take off. Two lengths of the mesh work is required 
 to join the work. 
 
 To join the work take a coarse crochet needle, put four single 
 meshes on the needle and draw through four meshes of the second 
 row alternately until the length required, which is 192 single meshes, 
 making forty-eight patterns— there are four rows of meshes in the 
 
 © 
 
o 
 
 46 
 
 O 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 pattern. When joining the last row take four meshes at the bottom 
 and three at the top, forming a narrowing for the neck. 
 
 The row through which the cord is run is made by 1 tr. into 3 
 meshes, 2 ch., 1 tr. into 3 meshes, still forming the pattern. 
 
 Edge for the Neck.—* 1 da, over, 1 tr.. 7 ltr. into second hole, 
 1 dc. into second tr., 7 ltr. into second hole. Repeat. 
 
 Cord and Tassels of Silk. — Instructions will be found with 
 " Baby's Hood," on page 43. 
 
 For making fringe, a piece of card- board three inches long — wind 
 the silk twelve times round the card, proceed as in ordinary fringe, 
 drawing the silk through four meshes of the work to form the pattern. 
 
 LACE. 
 
 First scallop. Cast on 19 chains. 
 1st row. — 2 tr. into 12th ch., 1 ch., 2 tr. into same ch., 3 ch., 1 dc. 
 into 4th ch., 1 ch., 2 tr. into 4th chain., lch., 2 tr. into same 
 ch., 2 tr. into 3d ch., 1 ch., 2 tr. into same ch. 
 
 2d row. — 2 ch., 2 tr. into 1 ch. of last row, 1 ch., 2 tr. into same, 2 
 tr. into 1 ch., 1 ch., 2 tr. into same, 3 ch., 1 dc. into 3 ch. in 
 last row, 1 ch., 2 tr. into 1 ch., of last row, 1 ch., 2 tr. into same, 
 1 tr. with 1 ch. between 6 times in the 7 ch. at the end. 
 
 3d row. — 1 dc. into 1 ch., 3 ch., 1 dc, into same ; repeat 6 times ; 1 
 dc, 2 tr. into the 1 ch. between 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 tr. into same, 3 
 ch. , 1 dc into 3 ch. of last row, 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 tr. into 1 ch., 
 worked the same as last row, the same into the next 1 ch. to 
 finish the row. 
 Second scallop. — 2 ch., 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 tr. into 1 ch., 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 
 tr. into next 1 ch., 3 ch., 1 dc. into 3 ch. 
 
 1st row. — 1 ch., 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 tr. into 1 ch., 1 tr. over 1 dc in last 
 row. 
 
 2d row. — 5 ch., 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 tr. into 1 ch., 3 ch., 1 dc. into 3 ch., 1 
 ch., 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 tr. into 1 ch., 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 tr. into 1 ch. 
 
 3d row.— 2 ch., 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 tr. into 1 ch., 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 tr. into 1 
 ch., 3 ch., 1 dc. into 3 ch., 1 ch., 2 tr., 1 ch., 2 tr. into 1 ch., 6 
 tr. with 1 ch. between in 5 ch., then put the needle through 
 last 3 ch. of last scallop to join them, and turn. 
 
 4th row. — Repeating the 3d row of the first scallop. 
 
 o- 
 
© 
 
 -o 
 
 BELDING S KNITTING SILKS. 
 
 47 
 
 BABY'S SOCKS IN PANEL STITCH. 
 
 Materials: \ ounce Beldixgs " Superior" Blue Knitting Silk, a 
 very little white knitting silk, and a medium sized crochet hook. 
 
 This pretty stitch is worked 
 in nearly the same manner as 
 crazy stitch, but being worked 
 round and round instead of 
 back and forth, the effect is en- 
 tirely different. With the blue 
 silk make a chain of 31 stitches, 
 very loose, as it will draw up in 
 working and make a non-elas- 
 tic edge if care is not taken in 
 this respect. Join in a round. 
 
 1st round. — 1 dc. in the first 
 stitch of the chain, 2 ch., 3 tr. 
 in the same stitch in which the 
 dc. was placed, thus giving the 
 effect of 4 tr. in one stitch of 
 the foundation. Repeat, always 
 missing one ch. of the founda- 
 tion, and beginning with 1 dc. 
 
 2d round. — 1 dc. between 
 the two chain, and the first 
 treble in the preceding round, 
 2ch.,3 tr. in the same place. Repeat. Practically, the shelJs in 
 the first round consisted of four trebles, and the dc. of the second 
 round is between the first and second trebles. All succeeding rounds 
 are like the second. 
 
 Work fourteen rounds. Begin the fifteenth by making 3G chain, 
 miss 4 shells and begin with the dc, in the fifth shell. Work around 
 *as before, and when you reach the long chain, work on that as on 
 the foundation. This begins the foot, leaving an opening on the 
 top of the foot. Work three rounds plain. In the fourth round 
 narrow (by missing one shell) at the toe and at the heel. Work the 
 fifth round plain, then narrow in every round until you have nine 
 rounds in all. Turn the foot on the wrong side, and beginning at 
 the heel, crochet the foot together. This is better than sewing it, 
 and is easily done by laying the shells exactly opposite each other, 
 and fastening each pair together by a single crochet. About four 
 chain stitches will be needed between each sc, to keep the foot 
 straight. 
 
 Now take the white silk, make a chain of 31 rather tight stitches, 
 turn, make 1 tr. in the fifth chain, 1 ch., 1 tr. in the seventh ch., 
 etc. There must be fourteen trebles in the row, including the one 
 made in turning, by the chain stitches. The trebles in the next 
 row are placed in the spaces between the trebles of the first row. 
 Repeat. Work three rows plain, then narrow at the beginning of every 
 row, (by missing one space) until there are but three stitches left. 
 Work the three and fasten off. The piece thus made is for the top 
 
 
 
 6 
 
o- 
 
 48 
 
 •0 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 of the foot, and must be crocheted in with double crochet stitches, 
 on the right side, using the blue silk. It will fit in smoothly at the 
 ankle and the sides of the foot; but at the toe, the sock must be 
 "puckered in" to fit the piece, thus giving the requisite fullness 
 over the toe. Work a row of trebles separated by one chain, around 
 the top of the leg, making a place to run a cord, or narrow ribbon, 
 and finish with any fancy edge. 
 
 A pretty one is as follows: 
 
 1st round. 1 dc. on the first tr., * 7 ch. , 1 dc. on third tr. 
 repeat from *. 
 
 2d row. 4 tr. in the fourth of the seven ch. , repeat. 
 
 3d row. 1 dc. between the first two groups of trebles, 6 ch., 
 repeat. 
 
 EDGE. 
 Make a chain of ten inches, join in a ring. 
 1st row. — 2 ch. , 3 tr. in the ring, 5 ch. , 1 sc. in the f]fth ch. of the ring. 
 Turn the work over and work back on the other side. 
 
 2d row. 
 
 -2ch., 8tr. 
 
 undei 
 
 1 tr. between the first and 
 second tr. of preceding row, 1 ch., 1 tr. between the 
 second and third tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. between the third tr. and the 
 two ch. Turn. (The chain stitches made at the beginning of 
 a row always count as one treble.) 
 
 3d row. — 3 ch., then always 1 tr. separated by 1 ch. between the 
 trebles of the preceding row. Turn. 
 
 4th row. — Like third. 
 
 5th row. — 2 ch., 2 tr. between the first and second tr., then always 8 
 tr. between the trebles of the preceding row. Turn. 
 
 6th row. — 3 ch., 1 sc. under the third of the little chain stitches that 
 lie along the top of the preceding row. Put the hook under 
 both ribs of the chain. Make nine of these little chains, then 5 
 ch. , 1 sc. in the last chain of the preceding row. This com- 
 pletes 1 scallop, the five chain taking the place of the ten chain 
 used in beginning. Repeat from the first row, always fasten- 
 ing to the previous scallop at the end of the first, third and fifth 
 rows, as shown in the illustration. 
 Half an ounce of Belding's " Superior " Knitting Silk will make 
 
 about one and one-quarter yards of this pattern. 
 
 o- 
 
 <j 
 
©■ 
 
 BELDING S KNITTING SILKS. 
 
 O 
 
 49 
 
 ROSE TIDY. 
 
 Begin the roses in tiie centei . Make a chain of 6 stitches. Join 
 in a ring. 
 
 
 - \ . 
 
 1st round. — 1 tr. separated by 3 ch. on each of the six stitches of the 
 
 foundation. 
 2d round. — 1 da, 3 tv. , 1 dc. in each of the spaces b«t ween the trebles 
 
 in the preceding round. 
 3d round. — 1 dc. separated by 6 ch. between each scallop of preceding 
 
 round. 
 4th round. — 1 dc , 5 tr., 1 dc. under each six chain. 
 5th round. — 1 dc. separated by 8 ch. between each scallop. 
 6th round. — 1 dc, 7 tr., 1 dc under each eight chain. 
 7th round. — 1 dc separated by 10 ch. between each scallop. 
 8th round. — 1 dc, 9 tr., 1 dc under each ten chain. 
 9th round. — 1 dc separated by 12 ch. between each scallop. 
 IQth round.- — 1 dc, 11 tr., 1 dc. under each twelve chain. Care must 
 
 .©• 
 
 •o 
 
© © 
 
 50 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 be taken, up to this point, not to make the chain stitches loose, 
 
 or the rose will lie flat. 
 11th round. — 1 tr., 14 rather loose ch., repeat. These trebles must be 
 
 put in the back of the scallops, at slightly irregular distances, 
 
 so as to make seven trebles in the round instead of six as here- 
 tofore. 
 12th round. — 1 da, 13 tr. , 1 dc. under every fourteen chain. 
 13th round. — 1 sc. separated by 3 ch. on every third chain of the 
 
 edge. 
 14th round. — 1 tr., 1 ch., repeat. These trebles must be fastened in 
 
 the top of the last scallop, behind every sc. of the thirteenth 
 
 round. 
 15th round. — 1 tr. , separated by 2 ch. , between every tr. of preceding 
 
 round. 
 16th round. — 1 tr., separated by 3 ch., between every tr. of preceding 
 
 round. 
 This completes the rows. After a sufficient number have been 
 made, they are joined by a row of chain stitches, with one row of 
 trebles in groups of three, thereon. The illustration shows the man- 
 ner of joining more clearly than it can be described. The long loops 
 in the corners of the squares are simply 10 ch. from the joining, 1 sc. 
 in the rose, 10 ch. back to'the joining. Any pretty crocheted edge 
 may be added for a finish. This would make a very handsome top 
 for a cushion, and can be made larger by adding roses. Eight roses 
 in length and three in width makes a large tidy. A pretty way is to 
 make the roses, from the first to the fourteenth rounds, of red or pink 
 silk ; the remaining three rounds, and the joinings, of green silk. The 
 shades must be delicate and carefully chosen, however, or the effect 
 will be tawdry. The quantity of silk used depends, of course, on the 
 size of the article. *Half an ounce of Belding's " Superior " Knitting 
 Silk will make five roses. 
 
 EDGE. 
 
 Make a chain of the required length. 
 1st row. — 1 treble, 1 ch., 1 treble, missing 1 ch. of the foundation. 
 Repeat. You now have a row of treble stitches looking like 
 little posts. 
 2d row. — Beginning on the top of the first post, make 7 ch., 1 dc. 
 
 on the top of the third post ; repeat, fastening to every alter- | 
 nate post. 
 3d row. — * 4 treble in the middle stitch of each 7 ch. in the preced- 
 ing row. 
 4th row. — Always 7 ch. fastened by 1 dc. between each shell of the | 
 preceding row. 
 This edge is shown in the Baby's Cap, described on page 34. i 
 It can be made of any desired width by repeating the third and fourth | 
 rows. Half an ounce of Belding's ''Superior" Knitting Silk will | 
 make about two yards and nine inches of this width. Use a very | 
 fine hook. t. 
 
 o— o 
 
o o 
 
 BELDING's knitting silks. 51 
 
 INSERTION. 
 Make a chain the required length. 
 1st row. — 1 tr. separated by 1 ch. on each alternate stitch of founda- 
 tion. 
 2d row. — 3 tr. separated by 1 ch. between each, on the first three tr. 
 
 of preceding row, 2 ch. , 1 tr. between the next two tr. of pre- 
 ceding row, 2 ch. Repeat. 
 3d row. — 2 tr. separated by 1 ch. between the 3 tr. of preceding row, 
 
 2 ch., 3 tr. over the one tr. of preceding row, (1 directly over 
 
 it, and one on each side of it,) 2 ch. Repeat. 
 4th row. — 1 tr. between the 2 tr. of preceding row, 2 ch., 5 tr. over 
 
 the three tr., 2 ch. Repeat. 
 5th row. — 3 tr. over the first two of the five tr. in preceding row, 1 
 
 ch., 3 tr. over the last two of the five, 3 ch. Repeat. 
 6th row. — 3 tr. over the first two tr. of the first group of three in the 
 
 preceding row, 3 ch., 3 tr. over the last two of the last group 
 
 of three in the preceding row, 1 ch. Repeat. 
 7th row. — 1 tr. on the middle one of the three ch. in preceding row, 
 
 2 ch. , 5 tr. over the two groups of threes in preceding row, 2 
 
 ch. Repeat. 
 
 © __ 
 
 o 
 
o 
 
 52 
 
 Q 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 8th row. — 2 tr. separated by 1 ch. over trie one tr. in preceding row, 
 
 2 ch., 3 tr. over the five tr., 2 ch. Repeat. 
 9th row. — 3 tr. separated by 1 ch. over the two tr. of preceding row, 2 
 
 ch. , 1 tr. over the three tr. 2 ch. Repeat. 
 10th row. — Always 1 tr. separated by 1 ch. 
 
 The illustration shows the position of the stitches more clearly 
 than any description can do. If desired, a pretty edge to sew the in- 
 sertion by can be made by working 1 tr. separated by 3 ch. , on each 
 alternate tr. of the edge of the insertion. 
 
 Half an ounce of Belding's " Superior" Knitting Silk will make 
 about a yard and nine inches of this insertion. Use a fine ho^/k. 
 
 FRINGE. 
 
 It is often desirable to make a pretty fringe which can be sewed 
 on to the article it is desired to ornament, instead of working it on in 
 the usual manner. This pattern not only serves such a purpose, but is 
 
 a change from the ordinary 
 tied-in fringe. 
 
 Make a chain the required 
 length, and work one row of 
 double crochet, one stitch in 
 each stitch of the foundation 
 chain. Turn and work as fol- 
 lows : (The fringe should pre- 
 viously be cut in lengths twice 
 as long as it is desired to make 
 the fringe and laid in bunches, 
 five threads in a bunch.) * Put 
 the hook under the upper vein 
 of the first dc. stitch in the 
 preceding row, lay the center 
 of a bunch across the hook, 
 take up the silk with which 
 you are working and draw all 
 through together, making two 
 stitches and the bunch on the 
 needle. Take up the silk 
 again and draw through all at 
 once, as in ordinary dc. Make 
 one dc. on the next stitch of 
 the preceding row. Repeat 
 from *. For the heading, 
 make one dc. in the first stitch 
 of the preceding row, * 3 treble in the next stitch, 1 dc. in the next, 
 1 ch. , 1 dc. in the next but one, repeat from *. The hook used 
 should be rather coarse. The quantity of silk required varies, of 
 course, with the depth of the fringe. Half an ounce of Belding's 
 "Superior" Knitting Silk will make nearly a yard of fringe, three 
 inches deep, including the heading, and as a trimming for dresses 
 it is very handsome and inexpensive. 
 
 H0 
 
0- 
 
 BELDING S KNITTING SILKS. 
 
 53 
 
 BABY'S SACK. 
 
 Materials : 3 ounces Belding's " Superior" Knitting Silk, and a 
 medium sized crochet hook. 
 
 Begin at the neck with a chain of 108 stitches. Turn, make 
 3 ch. , then a shell of 3 long trebles in every fourth chain until you 
 
 have 11 shells. The sixth shell has 6 long trebles, then 6 shells of 3 
 ltr., 1 shell of 6 ltr., 6 shells of 3 ltr., 1 shell of 6 ltr., 11 shells of 3 
 ltr. This completes the row. Work backwards and forwards, al- 
 ways putting the shells between those of the preceding row, and put- 
 ting 6 ltr. in the preceding six, thus widening three times in each 
 row, on each shoulder and in the back. Make 10 rows, then work 
 from the edge to the first shoulder, turn and w r ork back. Make 10 
 rows in this way without widening. This will make one front, to the 
 lower part of the armhole. Work the other front in the same way, 
 and also the back, except that the widening must be continued down 
 the middle of the back. After the 10 rows have been worked on each 
 of the three parts, join, and work back and forth all the way across 
 again, widening only in the middle of the back (where it must always 
 be widened in each row). Make 16 rows below the armhole. This 
 
 G> 
 
 O 
 
54 
 
 <D 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 completes the body of the sack. For the sleeves, crochet round and 
 round in the armhole, putting the shells between the rows. The 
 widening of the shoulder should be continued all the way down the 
 sleeve, but to keep the sleeve straight, narrow in every round alter- 
 nately on the right and left of the widening. For instance, in the 
 first round, narrow on the right of the widening ; in the second round 
 on the left ; in the third on the right again, etc. The narrowing is 
 done by simply missing one shell. Seventeen rounds complete the 
 sleeve. 
 
 Put a row of trebles separated by three chain around the neck, 
 to make a place for the cord, and finish with a scallop shell all 
 around sack and sleeves. A pretty scallop is 1 sc, in the space be- 
 tween two shells, 2 ch., 6 ltr. in the same space, 1 sc. between the 
 second and third ltr. of the following shell, repeat. A cord of the 
 silk or a narrow ribbon should be run in the neck to tie in front. 
 
 WIDE LACE. 
 
 Make a chain of 43 stitches. 
 1st row. — 1 tr. in the seventh chain, 2 ch., 1 tr. in the third ch., (i. e. y 
 the third from the one you fastened in before,) 5 ch., 1 sc. in 
 
 fifth ch., 5ch., 1 sc. in fifth ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. in fifth 
 5 ch., 1 sc. in fifth ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. in fifth ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. in 
 fifth ch., 4 ch., 1 sc. in fourth ch. Turn the work at the end 
 of each row. 
 2d row. — 2 ch., 9 long tr. under the fourth ch. of the preceding row., 
 10 ch. , 1 sc. on the second (i. e. , the next but one) sc. of 
 preceding row, 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc, 10 ch., 1 sc. on 
 first tr., (not the first one worked, but the first one you come to 
 
 ©■ 
 
 -o 
 
© 
 
 belding's knitting silks. 55 
 
 in this row,) 2 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. in third chain. 
 
 3d row. — 4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr,, 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. 
 
 on the center of the ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on the next sc, 5 ch., 
 
 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc. on 10 ch., 5 
 
 ch., 1 sc on the first of the nine ltr. , 4 ch., 1 sc, on the chain 
 
 between the third and fourth ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc on the ch. between 
 
 sixth and seventh ltr. 
 
 4th row. — 2 ch., 9 ltr. under the four ch., 10 ch., 1 sc in second sc, 10 
 
 ch., 1 sc in second sc, 10 ch., 1 sc in second sc, 5ch., 1 sc. on 
 
 first tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on third ch. 
 
 5th row. — 4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr. , 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc. , 5 ch., 1 sc, 
 
 on next sc, 5 ch. , 1 sc. on 10 ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 5 ch., 
 
 1 sc. on 10 ch., 5 ch., 1 sc on next sc, 5 ch. , 1 sc. on 10 ch., 
 
 5 ch., 1 sc on first ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc on third ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc on 
 
 sixth ltr. 
 
 6th row.— 2 ch., 9 ltr. under four ch., 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc, 10 
 
 ch., 1 sc on second sc, 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc, 10 ch., 1 sc. 
 
 on first tr. , 2ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on third ch. 
 
 7th row. — 4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr. , 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc, 5 ch., 1 sc. 
 
 on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 
 
 1 sc on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 
 
 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc on first ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc on 
 
 third ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc. on sixth ltr. 
 
 8th row. — 2 ch., 9 ltr. under the four ch., 10 ch., 1 sc. in second sc, 
 
 10 ch., 1 sc. in second sc, 10 ch., 1 sc. in second sc, 10 ch., 1 
 
 sc in second sc, 5 ch., 1 sc on first tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on second 
 
 tr. , 2 ch., 1 tr. on third ch. 
 
 9th row. — 4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc, 5 ch., 1 sc 
 
 on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 5 
 
 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc on next sc, 5ch., 1 sc on ten 
 
 ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch. , 
 
 1 sc on first ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc on third ltr,, 4 ch., 1 sc on sixth ltr. 
 
 10th row. — 2 ch., 9 ltr. under four ch., 10 ch., 1 sc in second sc, 10 
 
 ch., 1 sc in second sc, 7 ltr. in next sc, 1 sc. in next sc, 10 
 
 ch., 1 sc in second sc, 10 ch., 1 sc on first tr. , 2 ch., 1 tr. on 
 
 second tr. , 2ch., 1 tr. on third ch. 
 
 11th row. — 4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr. , 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc, 5 ch., 1 
 
 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc on ten ch., 5 
 
 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc on fourth ltr., 5 ch., 1 sc. on 
 
 next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc on nextsc, 5 ch., 1 
 
 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on first ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc on third ltr., 
 
 4 ch., 1 sc. on sixth ltr. 
 j 12th row. — 2 ch., 9 ltr. under four ch., 10 ch., 1 sc in second sc, 10 
 
 ch. , 1 sc. in second sc. , 9 ltr. in next sc. , 1 sc in next sc , 9 
 ltr. in next sc, 1 sc. in next sc, 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc, 5 
 ch., 1 sc on first tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on 
 third ch. 
 13th row. — 4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc, 5 ch., 1 
 sc. on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 
 
 5 ch;, 1 sc. on fourth ltr., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc. 
 
 q © 
 
: © 
 
 56 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 on fourth ltr. , 5 cli., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten cli. 5, 
 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc, on first 
 ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc. on sixth ltr. 
 
 14th row. — 2 ch., 8 ltr., 1 sc. on first sc, 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc. 
 (the next "but one), 10 ch., 1 sc on second sc, 7 ltr., on next 
 sc, 1 sc. on next sc, 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc, 7 ltr. on next 
 sc, 1 sc on next sc, 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc, 10 ch., 1 sc. 
 on first tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr., on third ch. 
 
 15th row. — 4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc, 5 ch., 1 
 sc on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc on ten 
 ch., 5 ch., 1 sc on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc on fourth ltr., 5 ch., 1 
 sc on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc on next sc, 
 5 ch., 1 sc on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 4 ch., 1 sc on 
 6th ltr. 
 
 16th row. — 2 ch., 8 ltr., 1 sc on first sc, 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc, 
 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc, 10 ch., 1 sc on second sc, 10 ch., 
 1 sc on second sc, 5 ch., 1 sc. on first tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on 
 second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on third ch. 
 
 17th row. — 4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc, 5 ch., 1 
 sc on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch. , 1 sc on next sc, 
 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc on 
 ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 
 sc on first ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc on sixth ltr. 
 
 18th row. — 2ch., 8 ltr., 1 sc. on first sc, 10 ch., 1 sc on second 
 sc, 10 ch., 1 sc on second sc, 10 ch., 1 sc. on second So., io 
 ch., 1 sc on first tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on 
 third ch. 
 
 19th row. — 4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc, 5 ch., 
 1 sc on 10 ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc on 10 ch., 
 5 ch., 1 sc on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc on 
 next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc on ten cli., 5 ch., 1 sc on first ltr., 4 ch., 
 1 sc. on sixth ltr. 
 
 20th row. — 2 ch., 8 ltr., 1 sc on first sc, 10 ch., 1 sc on second sc, 
 10 ch., 1 sc on second sc, 10 ch 3 , 1 sc on second sc, 5 ch., 1 
 sc on first tr. , 2 ch. , 1 tr. on second tr. , 2 ch. , 1 tr. on third ch. 
 
 21st row. — 4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch. , 1 tr. on first sc, 5 ch., 1 
 sc. on next sc, 5 ch. , 1 sc on tenth ch., 5 ch., 1 sc on next sc, 
 5 ch., 1 sc on tenth ch., 5 ch., 1 sc on next sc, 5 ch., 1 sc on 
 ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on first ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc on sixth ltr. 
 
 22d row. — 2 ch., 8 ltr., 1 sc on first sc, 10 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 10 
 
 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 10 ch., 1 sc. on first tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on 
 
 second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on third ch. Begin again at third row. 
 
 This gives one point and the first row of the second point. 
 
 Although a very elaborate lace, and somewhat tedious in making, 
 
 it will well repay the time spent. Worked in black, it makes a very 
 
 handsome trimming for black silk dresses. Care must be taken always 
 
 to insert the hook under the two upper threads of the preceding 
 
 stitch, in order to make the joinings look solid. Use a very fine 
 
 hook. Half an ounce of Belding's "Superior" Knitting Silk will 
 
 make a yard and eight inches of this pattern. 
 
 6 6 
 
— 
 
 I I I I I I I I I III I I I I I I l I 
 
 GENERAL FEATURES OF THE ART. 
 
 Silk embroidery occupies so large a place in modern fancy-work 
 that a book on the use of silk which took no notice of it would be 
 incomplete indeed. Kensington work is always pretty and appro- 
 priate, and it is a mistake to suppose, as many do, that it can only be 
 done in crewels. For all small articles, or delicate designs, filoselle 
 is far more appropriate, and etchings done in filoselle are not only 
 more dainty, but in many cases more effective than those done in 
 etching silk. The reason is evident. Etching silk has a firm, hard 
 twist, and makes a stiff outline, like a cord ; but the fine, soft filoselle 
 fits easily in all the tiny lines and curves, and gives to the finished 
 work the beauty and grace of a pen-and-ink sketch. Embroidery silk 
 has a place of its own in fancy stitches, but often takes also the place 
 of crewel in Kensington work, where its superior lustre is desirable ; 
 as for instance, in embroidering a dress or sacque. 
 
 It is not generally known that a good embroidery silk, like Beld- 
 ing's " Kensington/' for instance, can be made to stand a good deal 
 of washing with soap and water by soaking it in strong alum water 
 before using, provided, of course, that the washing is carefully done. 
 The best way, however, is to wash the^article in bran-water. Articles 
 intended for washing should contain but few colors. Aside from the 
 danger that the tints will run into each other, good taste demands 
 that a thing which is to be washed should look washable. The elab- 
 orate shading called for in a wall panel, which is to take the place of 
 a picture, is entirely out of place on a crash tidy to be used in the 
 common sitting-room. 
 
 The best way to learn the art of embroidery is to take a course of 
 lessons from some competent teacher. It is, however, quite possible 
 to learn from books, with very satisfactory results. To those who 
 have not the patience or inclination for solid embroidery, a wide field 
 is opened in the judicious use of numerous fancy stitches, by means of 
 which very beautiful work can be produced, at a comparatively small 
 outlay of time and labor. The designs given will prove suggestive, 
 and the stitches described in them of easy application in many ways. 
 
 The first requisite for good work is good material. In this re- 
 spect the embroidery silks made by Belding Bros. & Co. will be 
 found to meet every demand. The best worker cannot do herself 
 
 3 ■ o 
 
o- 
 
 58 
 
 <D 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 j ustice if compelled to use a silk which splits and frays in spite of all 
 her care, or of which the lustre is destroyed notwithstanding the 
 most careful handling, rendering her work dull and lifeless even 
 before it is completed . In this case, as in most others, the best is the 
 cheapest. She who has had her silk change color before reaching 
 the end of a needleful will not fail to appreciate the lasting quality of 
 a pure silk thread, and she who has suffered from tangled skeins (as 
 who has not ?) will not fail to see the advantage of having it neatly 
 wound on Sutro's patent cards, on which the embroidery silks 
 of Belding Bros. & Co. are furnished. This admirable contrivance 
 puts an end to all the loss of time, patience or material, that tangling 
 ordinarily causes. 
 
 OUTLINE STITCHES. 
 Perhaps the most important of all stitches is the "outline." It 
 is not only useful in itself, but is the foundation, so to speak, on 
 which all solid work is built. There are in reality several varieties 
 
 of it, though they 
 are frequently con- 
 founded with each 
 other ; the result of 
 such confusion be- 
 ing a great deal of 
 bad work. What is 
 often called outline 
 or stem stitch is 
 shown at c, Figure 1. 
 The needle is 
 brought up at 1, in- 
 serted at 2, brought 
 out again at 3, in- 
 serted at 4, etc. The 
 result is a line of 
 stitches somewhat 
 resembling a step- 
 ladder, and varying 
 from one to two 
 threads in thick- 
 ness. This is, in 
 reality, side or slip 
 stitch, and a very 
 good stitch for some 
 purposes, but it 
 should never be 
 used for outlines 
 that are to be well 
 defined, as in etch- 
 ings. By slanting* 
 the needle a little more than is shown in the illustration, a twist-stitch 
 is produced which is very prettv in combination with other fancy 
 
 0_ J 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
0- 
 
 I 
 
 © 
 
 BELDING S EMBROIDERY SILKS. 
 
 59 
 
 stitches. Outline stitch, as it should be, is shown at a. In begin- 
 ning it the needle is brought up at 1, inserted at 2, brought out at 3> 
 inserted at 4, brought out at 5, etc. The illustration shows the 
 stitches spread apart, for the sake of clearness, but by drawing them 
 tight a smooth, straight line of uniform thickness will be produced. 
 Strictly speaking, the needle should not be slanted at all, but brought 
 out exactly at the top of the previous stitch. If, however, it is 
 slanted, it must be to the right, as shown. In rounding curves, the 
 stitches must be very short, to keep the shape with accuracy. At b is 
 shown a variety in which the needle is slanted far to the right, pro- 
 ducing a roll. This is often useful in accenting various parts of the 
 work — a fold in a dress, for example. 
 
 All varieties of the outline stitch are difficult to reverse : that is, 
 after working up the right side of a leaf, for instance, to come down 
 on the left side, while holding the cloth in the same position. This 
 should be attempted only by a very skillful worker. Even experts in 
 the art usually find it more convenient to turn the cloth in the hand, 
 so as to work always from the bottom upwards. 
 
 TAPESTRY STITCH. 
 
 Figure 2 is an enlarged representation of tapestry stitch, 
 effect when worked is that of a thickly stuffed satin stitch, 
 it is much more quickly 
 and easily worked. Bring 
 the needle out on the 
 left side of the figure to 
 be worked — a leaf, for 
 instance — a little above 
 the middle. (See illustra- 
 tion 1.) Insert it at the 
 top of the leaf, on the 
 ► right side (2), and bring 
 it out at 3, taking as 
 short a stitch as possible. 
 Insert it again on the 
 right side of the leaf (4), 
 a thread or two lower 
 than the place on the left 
 side where you began. 
 Carry the needle straight 
 across the leaf, bringing 
 it out at 5, exactly oppo- 
 site the place where it 
 was inserted. The next 
 stitch is from 6 to 7, and 
 so on, the threads always 
 crossing from side to side 
 
 Its 
 
 but 
 
 of the leaf. As you 
 little closer together, 
 
 near the bottom, crowd the 
 and spread the upper ones 
 
 lower stitches a 
 i trifle apart, so 
 
 that when you have finished, the upper ones alone will be visible. 
 
 G> 
 
 -0 
 
o- 
 
 ■0 
 
 60 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 KENSINGTON STITCH, 
 
 In working leaves, many people fail to distinguish between work 
 held in the hand and that done in a frame. In the latter, leaves 
 should always be begun at the point ; in the former, never. Figure 
 8 illustrates the manner of working without a frame. If the 
 leaf is serrated (i. e., with notched or pointed edges) begin at the 
 mid-vein, and outline to the top of the first point. It usually gives 
 a better shape to work a trifle beyond the stamped or traced outline. 
 Bring the needle through to the right side of the work, and insert 
 it again at the mid- vein, making the ' stitch as short as possible on 
 the wrong side. (See a.) This gives a long stitch on the right 
 side and in a large leaf it will probably need fastening down by 
 catching the needle in a fibre of the silk when outlining up again. 
 Repeat this process of outlining toward the edge and coming back 
 the mid- vein with a long stitch throughout the entire leaf, or, as it 
 was graphically expressed by one lady, " Climb up hill and slide 
 down." 
 
 When the second point is reached, outline all the way to the 
 top of it, as shown in b. Repeat with every point until the mid- 
 dle one of the leaf is reached. If you outline this, you will have 
 an awkward place to fill, so you must work up gradually, keeping 
 the stitches crowded together at the mid-vein, and spreading them a 
 little on the edge. The stitches should take the direction indicated 
 in c. and the dotted line represents a long stitch which should 
 be made from the point to the top of the vein. Do not break off the 
 silk, but go on down the other side in the same manner, outlining the 
 short side of the points, as shown in the illustration, and always keep- 
 ing a good slant from the edge to the mid-vein. To do this, and to keep 
 the slant uniform on both sides, it will often be necessary to throw in 
 
 short lines, on the edge or in the middle, as may be required. These 
 are called extra stitches, and the skill of the worker is shown by her 
 being able to put them in without detection. They should be lost in 
 the regular, even lines. Side stitch is better than outline stitch, 
 except on the edges, as it puts less silk on the wrong side, In a well- 
 worked leaf the silk will be nearly all on the surface, very little being 
 wasted underneath. 
 
 This is the Kensington Stitch, so often heard of, so seldom seen. 
 The name is frequently applied to work in which the stitch is taken 
 from side to side, as much silk appearing on the wrong side as on 
 the right, but this is properly worsted or crewel embroidery. It 
 should be employed only where it is desired to make one portion of 
 the work thicker or heavier than another, and then only in Belding's 
 " Kensington" Embroidery Silk — never in filoselle. 
 
 At d. is shown the manner of working a leaf with smooth 
 edges. Outline a little way up, " about to where the first point would 
 be if there was a point to be !" Let the long stitch lie in the curve, 
 (silk is a flexible material, remember, and can be put where you want 
 it), and get the proper slant gradually, and by means of extra stitches. 
 Never leave an open space for the veins, but put them on in stem 
 stitch, after the leaf is otherwise finished. Parallel-veined leaves 
 
 o- 
 
 -© 
 

 
 -o 
 
 belding's embroidbry silks. 
 
 61 
 
 h. 
 
 fig. 3. 
 
 c. 
 
 a. 
 
 ©~ 
 
 ■O 
 
o- 
 
 62 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 -o 
 
 O 
 
 (lily-leaves, grass, etc.) consist of rows of side stitches running from 
 bottom to top, as in e. The best way to keep the shape is to outline 
 the outer edges and a line up the middle ; then fill up each half of 
 the leaf separately. 
 
 FLOWER IN KENSINGTON STITCH. 
 Figure 4 shows the mode of working a flower in Kensington 
 stitch. The principle is the same as in the leaves, alternate short and 
 long stitches running always from the center to the outer edge. The 
 
 edge is so broad in proportion to 
 the center, the latter, indeed, 
 being usually a mere point, that 
 a great many short lines and 
 extra stitches, represented by 
 the dotted lines will be re- 
 quired. 
 
 At b is shown a petal ready 
 for shading, and just here is 
 the fault into which the inex- 
 perienced worker is most apt 
 to fall. Supposing the edge to 
 be light, the center dark, she 
 will probably make all her 
 lines of the same length, as are 
 the dotted lines, or she will 
 have a regular alternation of 
 long and short lines. The good 
 worker, on the other hand, will 
 scarcely make two lines of the 
 same length, and while making 
 the edge perfectly smooth and 
 solid, will leave spaces toward the center— the more irregular the 
 better. Then choosing for her second shade one but little darker 
 than the first, she will blend the two, by means of these irregular 
 spaces, so intimately that one can scarcely tell where the one begins 
 and the other ends, except that the center is darker than the edge. 
 If the center is to be much darker or lighter than the edge, use several 
 shades, passing gradually from one tint to another until' the desired 
 tone is reached, but never, unless working autumn leaves, pass ab- 
 ruptly from dark to light. Some find it easier to work from 'the center 
 towards the edge, as at c. Except in flowers with very large centers, 
 as daisies and sunflowers, it is best not to leave any opening, but fill 
 the whole space, and put the knots which constitute the usual center 
 on top. These rules for shading appl y equally well to leaves. Avoid 
 a light, whitish streak down the side of a leaf, but follow Nature's ex- 
 ample and blend the tints gradually. Generally speaking, the tip 
 of a leaf should be a little lighter than the base. 
 
 Stems should be worked up and down in outline stitch, or, if 
 wide, in side stitch, like the lily leaf. Never work them crosswise, 
 but follow the natural grain of the plant. 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 -6 
 
©- 
 
 © 
 
 belding's embkoideky silks. 
 
 63 
 
 CHAIN STITCHES. 
 
 Prominent among fancy stitches is the chain stitch. It is shown 
 in an enlarged form at a, Figure 5, and is so well known as scarcely 
 to require description. The perfection with which this stitch is imi- 
 tated by machine has caused it 
 to fall greatly but undeserv- 
 edly into disuse. Several rows 
 of very short chain stitches 
 placed so closely together as 
 nearly to overlap each other, 
 give a peculiarly twisted ef- 
 fect, almost defying detection 
 as to the manner of its accom- 
 plishment. On coarse cloth it 
 maybe done with Belding's 
 "Kensington" Embroidery 
 Silk, but on fine linen or satin, 
 only one thread of filoselle 
 should be employed. It is im- 
 possible to give an accurate 
 representation of this effect, 
 which on account of its 
 tediousness is suitable only 
 for small spaces, but in such, 
 it is pretty enough to repay 
 amply the labor bestowed on it. 
 
 At b is an enlarged rep- 
 resentation of a popular va- 
 riety of chain stitch called 
 "twisted chain." The thread 
 is looped under the needle 
 exactly as the chain stitch, but 
 instead of inserting the needle 
 at the same point where it was 
 brought out, inside the pre- 
 vious stitch, the needle is 
 carried back to the upper end 
 of the previous stitch, and inserted close to it on the left side. 
 Worked with double thread in rather long stitches, it gives the ef- 
 fect of a heavy cord. It is also very pretty when done in two colors, 
 scarlet and gold, for instance, or rose-pink and maroon. Put a thread 
 of each in the needle, and work as if they were one thread. At c is 
 shown a third variety usually called " point russe stitch." It consists 
 simply of long chain stitches arranged according to fancy, and each 
 one caught down by a short, straight stitch across the end of the loop. 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 FRENCH KNOTS. 
 
 The centers of most embroidery flowers -are constituted of 
 French knots. The manner of working is shown in Figure 6. 
 
 ©- 
 
 o 
 
o- 
 
 64 
 
 O 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 Bring the silk through the cloth where the knot is intended to be, 
 and wind it three times around a needle as in a. Do not wind it 
 towards you, but lay the needle back of the silk, and wind from you, 
 as shown in the illustration. This seems a little matter, but it 
 makes all the difference between a smooth, well-shaped knot and a 
 shapeless bunch. Hold the silk firmly between the thumb and 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 finger of the left hand, and at a little distance from the needle. It 
 need not be stretched tightly, had better not be, in fact, but must be 
 kept smooth. Keeping the wound part still on the needle, turn the 
 needle back (not towards you), and insert it in the cloth at about 
 two threads distance from where it was brought out. (See b.) Draw 
 the silk through, keeping hold of it with the left hand as long as 
 possible, to prevent tangling. The result should be a tight knot, as 
 smooth and hard as a bead, and looking much like a bead sewed 
 down with a single thread. Some people hold the silk down with 
 the thumb alone, as at c, but it is much easier to guide it and keep 
 it from tangling by holding it between the thumb and forefinger. 
 
 In the centers of roses, poppies, etc. , where it is desired to put 
 the knot on the end of a little stem, instead of inserting the needle 
 where it was brought out, insert it where yovi want the end of the 
 stem to be. Keep the silk up towards that end with the left hand, 
 and the knot will take its place where the needle was inserted, thus 
 making stem and knot with one stitch. 
 
 French knots are used not only for the centers of flowers, but 
 also in combination with other fancy stitches, in various ways. 
 Blackberries are made entirely of French knots, put close together. 
 Take two threads of silk in the needle if using Belding's " Kensing- 
 ton " Embroidery Silk. Of filoselle take a whole strand if the berries 
 are large ; if they are small, half a strand. A bunch of berries 
 should be shaded from very pale green through various tints of red, 
 to black. A pretty effect is sometimes given by putting two shades 
 of red in the needle,. and making the knots of both at once. In work- 
 ing sumach the silk should be wound five times around the needle. 
 
 ©■ 
 
 -e 
 

 
 BELDING S EMBKOIDEKY SILKS. 
 
 65 
 
 What is called " plush stitch" is often used for sumach. Make 
 the knots a little distance apart, so as to show the cloth between. 
 They should be of worsted, preferably double zephyr, put but three 
 times round the needle. Then take two strands of filoselle and sew 
 it down between the knots with a stitch of stout sewing silk, one 
 stitch in a place, as in couching. Cut the filoselle off between 
 every stitch, leaving ends about a quarter of an inch long. Put the 
 stitches close enough together to cover the ground entirely, and cut 
 the filoselle each time that a stitch is taken. There should be three 
 or four shades of filoselle used in each bunch of sumach, the darkest 
 next the stem, but the worsted and sewing silk may all be of one 
 medium shade of red. After the work is otherwise completed, clip 
 the filoselle smooth and even with sharp scissors. 
 
 Golden rod, cockscomb, and similar flowers are also worked in 
 this stitch. The effect is often very pretty at first, if the colors are 
 tastefully chosen, but it should never be used on an article that is 
 to be leaned against, a tidy for instance, nor where it will get dusty. 
 It soon mats down and loses its freshness, and of course it is im- 
 possible to brush dust out of it. 
 
 FERN, VEINING AND FEATHER- STITCHES. 
 
 Figure 7, a, is fern stitch. The needle having been brought 
 out at 1 is inserted at 2 and brought out at 3, drawing the silk tight. 
 Insert the needle at 4 and bring it out again at 2, looping the silk 
 
 Fig. 7 
 
 under the needle as in button -holing. At b is shown a variety of this 
 same stitch, called " veining stitch." The illustration shows clearly 
 the manner of working. Still another, and very common variety, is 
 called " feather stitch," and is shown at c. 
 
 -© 
 
o- 
 
 66 
 
 INSTBUOTIONS FOR USING 
 
 ■9 
 
 BALLOON STITCH. 
 
 Since the days of our great-grand mothers, balloon stitch has 
 become almost entirely obsolete, principally from its tediousness; but 
 it is too pretty to be altogether lost. 
 Our illustration shows it greatly magni- 
 fied, but it should always be done on a 
 material of which the threads can be 
 easily counted. It must be so fine, 
 however, in proportion to the silk em- 
 ployed, as to allow of the groundwork 
 being entirely covered. Holland duck, 
 coarse crash, or embroidery linen are 
 suitable materials to work on with Bel- 
 ding's " Kensington " Embroidery Silk. 
 If a full strand of filoselle is used, the foundation may be of fine 
 
 Fig. 8. 
 canvas. It would be tedious to describe this stitch, in words, but 
 the illustration shows clearly the manner of working. 
 
 COUCHING STITCHES. 
 
 The couching stitch, shown in Figure 9, is one of the most 
 useful of all stitches, and its varieties are almost endless. A strand 
 of silk varying from one to ten threads in thickness is laid along the 
 surface of the work, and caught down at regular intervals by a single 
 stitch of the same or a contrasting color. (See a.) 
 
 Three of these strands laid close together, with the cross stitches 
 regularly alternated, as at b, form basket couching. This may be 
 
 0- 
 
©• 
 
 -0 
 
 BELDING S EMBROIDERY SILKS. 
 
 67 
 
 made as wide as is desired by means of additional rows. The strands 
 should be quite thick — eight or ten threads if Belding's " Kensing- 
 ton " Embroidery Silk is used, or at least five strands of filoselle. 
 Flat, or antique couching is shown at c. A single thread of embroid- 
 ery silk is used, or a single strand of filoselle, and there must always 
 be several rows. The crossing stitches may be arranged in waving 
 
 Fig. 9. 
 
 lines, as in the illustration, or in diamonds, or diagonal lines, or any 
 other pattern that fancy suggests. In all couching, the crossing- 
 thread must be much finer than the foundation. Two threads of 
 filoselle form a good crossing in nearly or quite all cases. 
 
 b 
 
 BORDERING FIGURE. 
 
 Figure 10 if nicely worked, is a very pretty figure for ornament- 
 ing various articles. The outer lines should be quite heavy; couch- 
 ing, cordonnet worked with double thread, or twisted chain in two 
 colors being all appropriate stitches. The leaf -shaped spaces may be 
 worked in tapestry stitch, giving a solid appearance, or in veining, or 
 New England stitch; the stitches spread apart, so as to give a lace 
 effect. In this case both they and the circle at their base should be 
 outlined in chain stitch. The inner circle may also be outlined or 
 worked in satin stitch as a solid spot. The colors used will depend, of 
 course, on the color of the foundation. 
 
 Take, for instance, a table scarf of olive green felt to be worked 
 with Belding's " Kensington " Embroidery Silk. The design should 
 be enlarged to a width of about four and a half inches, and repeated at 
 
 -© 
 
©■ 
 
 68 
 
 •Q 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 intervals across the ends. The outer lines, a twisted chain of blood 
 orange, (No. 100), and black. The leaf forms, veining stitch of buff 
 (No. 96). The stitch should be taken from side to side of the leaf, so as 
 to cover the surface, but not closely. The chain stitch around the edge 
 
 of the leaf, wood 
 brown, (No. 84). 
 The circle at the 
 base, chain stitch of 
 the blood orange, 
 and the inner circle 
 a solid spot of the 
 wood brown. This 
 would also be a 
 pretty border for 
 piano covers. 
 
 Another very 
 neat way would be 
 to make an applique 
 design of it. Sup- 
 pose the object to be 
 a scarf for an up- 
 right piano, the ma- 
 terial an old gold or 
 sateen. Enlarge the 
 
 Fig. 10. ^ ^ design as before. 
 
 Cut the leaf forms with the circle on which they rest, out of one piece 
 of peacock blue velvet or plush, and couch them down with the 
 same shade of filoselle, using three strands for velvet and five for 
 plush. No. 142 would be a pretty shade. Make the outer circle a 
 couching of dark peacock green (No. 158), the crossing threads of dark 
 old gold (No. 82-J), and the centre a solid spot of the same. If de- 
 sired, the whole outer form can be cut out of dark old gold satin, and 
 applied, and the plush applied on that. This would be very rich. 
 
 A few directions for preparing applique may be of service. The 
 figure to be applied must be stamped or traced on the material from 
 which it is to be cut, and also on the material to which it is to be ap- 
 plied. The latter must then be tacked smoothly on a board or table. 
 Having cut the figure from the velvet, or whatever the material may 
 be, cover it thickly on the back with book-binders' paste, and press 
 it down on the foundation, the exact spot being indicated by the 
 stamping. The tacking down is to keep the foundation from drawing 
 in wrinkles while drying. After it is perfectly dry, the velvet must 
 be closely hemmed with fine thread or silk, to keep the raw edges 
 from raveling, It is then ready for the couching. 
 
 BORDER 
 
 FOR TABLE SCARFS. 
 
 Figure 11 is reduced from the border of a skirt worked nearly a 
 hundred and fifty years ago. It formed part of a wedding outfit, 
 and is quaint enough to merit reproduction, though few brides of 
 i the present day would have patience to imitate it in the exquisitely 
 
 o 
 
— ■ -© 
 
 70 INSTRUCTIONS FOB USING 
 
 fine cotton originally employed. Worked in Belding's ' ' Kensington " 
 Embroidery Silk, however, with carefully chosen colors, it makes an 
 exceedingly pretty border for table scarfs. It should be enlarged, for 
 working, to a breadth of five and a half inches, preserving all the 
 proportions. The stitches used are indicated in the illustration. 
 Each alternate large leaf is worked in New England stitch. (See a.) 
 Beginning at the point, take a short stitch at the right hand edge of 
 the leaf, in horizontal direction, pointing the needle from right to 
 left, as in ordinary sewing. The next stitch is exactly opposite, on 
 the left hand edge, the needle pointing from left to right. Then back 
 to the right hand, etc. , allowing the threads to cross, as shown in the 
 illustration. The stitches may be made close together so as to cover 
 the ground entirely, or be spread apart more or less, according to 
 fancy. 
 
 The manner of working the long knots for the alternate leaves 
 is shown at b. Bring the needle out at 1, insert it at 2, just the 
 length of a stitch, say three-sixteenths of an inch, and bring it out 
 again at 1. Before drawing it through, wind the silk smoothly 
 several times. around the needle. Draw needle and silk through the 
 tube thus formed, holding it firmly under the thumb of the left 
 hand until the thread is drawn entirely through, then turn the tube 
 towards 2, and draw the stitch up tight. Insert the needle at 2, and 
 bringing it out on the wrong side, draw it down tight. This is apt 
 to be a very troublesome stitch at first, but after a little practice it 
 can be done quite rapidly. In the original these stitches, though 
 arranged in the manner shown, were placed so close together as 
 entirely to cover the ground. 
 
 The edge of each leaf is closely buttonholed between the double 
 lines. The small leaves are all done in New England stitch, the 
 edges outlined. The acorns are also outlined, and a line of long 
 knots is carried up the middle and across the top of the cup. The 
 stems are simply worked over and over, in the well known satin or 
 laid stitch. 
 
 A very pretty scheme of color for this design would be as fol- 
 lows ; For the foundation, a table scarf, say, use furniture sateen, 
 of a deep cream color. Make the large leaves in New England 
 stitch, of pale tea color, (No. 149), Belding's " Kensington " Em- 
 broidery Silk, and those in long knots of dark tea color, (No. 150). 
 Buttonhole both with dark moss color, (No. 102). The bunches of 
 small leaves alternately in the pale tea green, outlined with the dark, 
 and vice versa. The long knots in the acorns of amber, (No. 145), 
 outlined with olive brown, (No. 146). The stems of amber. 
 
 BORDERS. 
 
 Figures 12, 13 and 14 are borders for tidies, table scarfs, bureau 
 covers, etc. They are given in full size, and may be worked in any 
 stitch or combination of stitches and colors of Belding's " Kensing- 
 ! ton " Embroidery Silk that fancy suggests. 
 
 & _ — rQ 
 

 
 belding's embroidery silks. 
 
 
 71 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 o) 
 
 (o\ 
 
 (pYp^oYo) 
 
 fo) 
 
 (o 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 Fig. 12. 
 
 FIG. 14. 
 
 O- 
 
 -o 
 
©- 
 
 -0 
 
 72 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 SOFA PILLOW. 
 
 Figure 15 is a sofa pillow, and should be enlarged to the size of 
 the pillow. Fifteen inches square is a good working size. The 
 foundation may be satin, sateen, or very heavy silk. A decided 
 Oriental effect may be produced as follows: Make the foundation of 
 
 a dark but bright green. The outer lilies of the diamond-shaped 
 figures a basket couching (three rows) of filoselle, using for the 
 outer three rows cardinal (No. 131), and for the middle row, scarlet 
 (No. 129). The inner lines of the diamonds are also basket couching 
 of the same colors, but reversed, i.e., the cardinal between two rows 
 of scarlet. The vine may. be worked solid or in outline with two 
 threads of filoselle, using cream (No. 76), or antique gold (No. 144). 
 The fleur de lys shapes in the pointed spaces are to be cut from light 
 peacock blue plush or velvet, and couched on with the same shade. 
 (No. 141 is the proper tint. ) Cut the entire shape from one piece and 
 couch all the lines. This gives the same effect as cutting several 
 little pieces, and is far less trouble. The centre figure is also an 
 applique of old gold (No. 82), or of amber, (No. 145). 
 
 G 
 
0- 
 
 -Q 
 
 belding's embroidery silks. 
 
 73 
 
 LAMP SHADE. 
 
 At figure 16 is shown a section of a lamp shade. Cut from pale 
 blue satin eight of these sections, each measuring eight and a half 
 
 Fig. 16. 
 
 inches in length, four and three-quarters in breadth at the widest 
 part, and one and an eighth at the narrowest. (These measurements 
 do not allow for seams.) The fancy stitch between the straight lines 
 is simply a variation of the old fashioned herring-bone, and the 
 manner of working it is clearly shown at a. It may be done in an- 
 
 <3 
 
74 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 
 
 tique gold (not old gold) Belding's ' ' Kensington " Embroidery Silk 
 The straight lines may be outlined in sultan red, (No. 132), but 
 will be much prettier done in cordonnet. With the sultan red run 
 the lines as in ordinary sewing, but leave the stitches quite loose, and 
 make them of equal length on the right and wrong sides. Then run 
 them a second time, covering the spaces left between the stitches in 
 the first row, (See b). Now take a thread of shell pink (No. 107), 
 and slip the needle under every stitch, as shown in c, not catching it 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 
 o 
 
 Outline Designs. (See Page 75.) 
 
 in the satin at all. This gives a pretty cord of the combined colors. 
 In the center of each section should be embroidered a small spray 
 of flowers. That shown in the illustration is the Japanese almond. 
 The flowers should be worked in Kensington stitch with one thread 
 of pink filoselle, (No. 107). The centers, tiny knots of cream yellow, 
 (No. 76). The stems brown, (No. 85), worked in stem stitch. The 
 plant never has leaves at the time of flowering, and the sharp spikes 
 must be worked as parts of the stem. The buds are worked like the 
 flowers. Line each section of the shade with pale pink silk, and join 
 
 ■0 
 
-0 
 
 BELDING S EMBROIDERY SILKS. 
 
 75 
 
 the sections at the top by a ribbon binding of pink or blue. This 
 makes a flexible shade, to put over one of glass or porcelain. It can 
 be stiffened by an interlining of pasteboard, and the sections over- 
 handed together from the top down to the bulge. It can then be 
 attached to a metal top, and used on an ordinary lamp chimney. 
 
 OUTLINE DESIGNS. 
 
 The outline figures, 17 and 18, need no description. They are 
 suitable for tidies, pincushion covers, etc., and may be enlarged to 
 
 Fig. 18. 
 
 ©■ 
 
 any desired size, and worked in colors, or in various shades of one 
 color. 
 
 Figure 19 is also pretty in outline, but may be made very effective 
 
 & 
 
0- 
 
 -o 
 
 76 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 
 
 by a combination of solid work and fancy stitches. Choose for the 
 foundation a very fine linen, either white or cream. Work the top 
 of the table in fiat couching with medium brown (No. 86), Belding's 
 
 ' ' Kensington " Embroidery 
 Silk. The edge in half-cordon- 
 net, of dark wine (No. 134J). 
 Half- cordonnet differs from 
 cordonnet only in omitting the 
 second row of running stitches. 
 The legs should be worked 
 solid, in side stitch, with seal 
 brown filoselle (No. 88). The 
 outside of the vase should be 
 of azure blue filoselle (No. 
 66). Take one, or at most two 
 threads in the needle, and 
 work successive rows of very 
 fine chain stitches, putting 
 them so close together that 
 the edge of one row overlaps 
 the edge of the preceding row. 
 Omit the pattern on the vase, 
 and let the rows of chain 
 stitch follow the outlines of 
 the vase. For the rim, thread the needle with the same blue and 
 old gold (No. 82), and work successive rows of twisted chain, putting 
 them close together, so as entirely to cover the linen. The inside of 
 the vase should be done in Kensington stitch with the old gold, 
 shading it at the bottom with dark old gold (No. 82£), so as to give 
 the proper effect for the inside of the vase. Let the stitches all 
 radiate from the centre, that is, the point where the stem of the 
 flower disappears. The stem itself is of dark golden olive filoselle 
 (No. 136), worked in stem stitch. The leaves are in side stitch, of 
 olive bronze filoselle (No. 136-J-). The flowers may be worked in 
 point russe, or one straight stitch for each ray. They should be of 
 rose filoselle (No. Ill), and the centers, a little group of French 
 knots in the old gold filoselle. 
 
 BOOK COVER. 
 
 A handsome cover for a Bible or prayer-book is always a useful 
 present. At figure 20 is shown a design which, though simple and 
 easily worked, is exceedingly rich in effect. The cover, which is 
 simply a straight piece, large enough to fit around the book from 
 edge to edge, may be cut of maroon velvet, and the lines worked 
 with Belding's "Kensington" Embroidery or Saddlers' Silk, in a 
 cordonnet of azure blue (No. 66) and gold (No. 80), or may be 
 couched with scarlet filoselle (No. 129) three strands in thickness, 
 the crossing threads of antique gold (No. 144). An initial or mono- 
 gram should be worked in the center with filoselle of the same shade 
 
 © 
 
o- 
 
 BEL.DING S EMBROIDERY SILKS. 
 
 77 
 
 of gold as that employed in the lines. Line the cover with maroon 
 silk, and on each side, near the edge, put a broad strap of the silk, 
 
 
 sewed in at top and bottom. The cover of the book may be slipped 
 under this, and no other fastening will be required. 
 
 FANS 
 Figures 21 and 22 are fans. The size for working depends some 
 what upon the sticks, but 5£ inches in width, and 19 between the ex- 
 
 O- 
 
 -o 
 
o- 
 
 -O 
 
o_^ _ 
 
 80 INSTBUCTIONS FOB USING 
 
 trenie outer edges is a good average size. Figure 21 would be very 
 handsome for a fan of heavy white silk or satin, worked entirely 
 in gold. If it is preferred to use colors, the curved lines of the bor- 
 der maybe done in Belding's "Kensington" Embroidery Silk, in 
 cordonnet of coral pink (No. 126) and amber (No. 145), or better still, 
 a twisted chain of rose (No. 111). The flowers should be of filoselle 
 worked in Kensington stitch, either light coral pink (No. 125 J), or 
 cream (No. 76). 
 
 The center figure should also be done with filoselle in Kensing- 
 ton stitch. Its central division should be in dark antique gold 
 (No. 144^), the division on either side of the center in amber (No. 
 145), and the outer divisions in olive brown (No. 146). 
 
 The large figures on each side of the fan are likewise in Ken- 
 sington stitch and worked with filoselle. Beginning in the center 
 of the fan, work one leaf on each side with light coral pink (No. 
 125-£). The next three leaves and stems are of coral pink (No. 126), 
 the remaining three of cherry (No. 127), and the two scrolls at the 
 end of light scarlet (No. 128). 
 
 Having supposed this fan to be of white silk, we will consider 
 figure 22 as made of black satin. The prettiest way would be to 
 work the spaces between the waving lines solid, in stem stitch, with 
 one, or at most two threads of filoselle, beginning at the bottom 
 with a dark shade, and making each division a shade lighter until 
 the edge is reached. For example, let the lowest division be of 
 maroon (No. 133). The next would be sultan (No. 132), the next 
 cardinal (No. 131), the next dark scarlet (No. 130), the next scarlet 
 (No. 129), and the last light scarlet (No. 128). If this is more work 
 than is desired, the lines alone may be worked, either in stem stitch, 
 cordonnet, or twisted chain. They may be shaded in the same way 
 as before ; or, as there are seven lines, it would be a pretty fancy to 
 use the colors of the rainbow. The water should be done in outline 
 stitch with one thread of opera blue filoselle (No. 60) if the fan is 
 black, or Nile green (No. 155) if it is white. The fish should be 
 done in outline with silver gray (No. 70). 
 
 CLOCKS FOR STOCKINGS. 
 
 Figures 23 and 24 are clocks for stockings. They should be 
 worked in satin stitch (over and over), with Saddlers' Silk, and may 
 be done in the color of the stocking or a contrasting color. Care 
 must be taken to leave the stitches very loose. They may be placed 
 on top or at the sides, as is preferred. 
 
 o_ _ — — © 
 
o 
 
 ■o 
 
 BELDING S EMBROIDERY SILKS. 
 
 81 
 
 
 O 
 
 Fig. 23. 
 
o 
 
 •o 
 
 Silk manufacture. 
 
 A few facts concerning the largest manufacture of silk thread in 
 this country will prove of interest to many of our readers. Belding 
 Bros. & Co. have their principal mills at Rockville, Conn., and North- 
 ampton, Mass. ; they have also large ones at Montreal, Can. , and San 
 Francisco, Cal. The mills at Rockville and Northampton use 1,000 
 pounds of silk per day. In all branches of the manufacture a single 
 strand of silk must be produced, which is usually doubled for yarns 
 or trebled for machine twist. This single strand, into which every 
 day at those mills a half a ton of silk is converted, is long enough to 
 
 MILLS AT ROCKVILLE, CONN. 
 
 go around the entire globe six times ; two days' production would 
 more than span the distance between the earth and the moon. 
 
 The mills at Northampton and Rockville are substantial brick 
 buildings, respectively four and five stories in height, 300 to 400 feet 
 in length and 42 to 45 feet wide. About 1,200 operatives are at work 
 in these mills, and 400 more at Montreal and San Francisco. 
 
 The raw silk which comes from Asia and Southern Europe has 
 to go through a great variety of processes before it is converted into 
 thread. The first thing requisite is to assort the raw silk into lots 
 of a uniform thickness of fibre. Then a kind of gum with which the 
 insect has covered the fibres must be removed by soaking and wash- 
 ing. The removal of the gum makes the silk soft and pliable ; it is 
 then ready for winding upon large bobbins. The next process is per 
 
 o 
 
■© 
 
 SILK MANUFACTURE. 
 
 83 
 
 formed by the doubling machine ; this brings together a sufficient 
 number of fibres to make a strand of a given thickness. An import- 
 ant and very ingenious feature of this machine is a contrivance by 
 which the breakage of a single fibre causes the particular bobbin 
 where the fault occurs to stop until the broken fibre is tied. 
 
 The doubled thread has now to be spun so as to consolidate the 
 fibres of the strand. The long rows of spindles and " fliers " that do 
 this work turn so rapidly as to seem motionless. A speed of 10,000 
 revolutions per minute is not at all unusual. The single strand being 
 thus completed, a "matching" machine takes it in hand and brings 
 together two or three strands to form the thread ; two strands for 
 
 MILLS AT NORTHAMPTON, MASS. 
 
 sewing silk, three for machine twist. Next a " twisting " machine 
 performs its service, and gives the needed twist to complete the 
 thread, which now is transferred to the "cleaning machine." 
 
 Formerly the process known as ' ' cleaning " was performed on 
 the single strands ; one of the great improvements in manufacture is 
 the operation of a patented machine which cleans the completed 
 thread, not only taking off all burrs and fluff from the thread, but 
 also giving to it a firmness and gloss which are peculiarly charac- 
 teristic of the goods produced by Belding Bros. & Co. The thread 
 has to go through several other processes besides those which have 
 been described. It undergoes more than one washing of soap and 
 water. A stretching machine reduces it to a uniform tension. 
 This is done while the thread is wet ; it must afterwards be dried 
 
 o- 
 
O __ 
 
 84 SLLK MANUFACTURE. 
 
 thoroughly. A reeling machine cuts it off in lengths of 350 yards, 
 and these lengths are carefully weighed, so as to assort them, as the 
 weight determines the grade or letter by which the thread is after- 
 wards to be designated. The dyeing of the thread is one of the 
 most important of the various processes to which it is subjected ; it 
 requires experience as well as knowledge. Belding Bros. & Co. dye 
 their silks on their own premises, and are thus enabled to insure 
 purity of color. 
 
 The thread thus prepared is wound by an ingenious spooling 
 machine on the stamped spools. There is also an admirable contriv- 
 ance which insures the winding on each spool of the exact number 
 of yards it is intended to contain ; this device is also the subject of 
 a patent owned by the firm. Although not less than 150 different 
 varieties of thread are made, including machine-twist, button-hole 
 silk, shoe-sewing silk, knitting silk, and "Kensington" embroidery 
 silk, the general system of manufacture above described applies 
 throughout. 
 
 The business has also been extended to the manufacture of 
 hosiery and of woven goods. The silk hosiery made by Belding 
 Bros. & Co. has all the points of superiority which distinguish their 
 silk thread and knitting silk, and although this branch of manufac- 
 ture is comparatively recent, it has already made its mark in popular 
 favor, as evinced by a large demand. 
 
 The surprising growth of this manufacturing enterprise, which 
 has risen from small beginnings, is mainly due to the uniform ex- 
 cellence of the goods made, and the continuous endeavor to make 
 only the very best. To keep the goods up to the highest standard, 
 the most advanced machinery is used, and skilled labor is employed. 
 The working force is mostly composed of operatives born in this 
 country, though some have been brought from Europe for special 
 departments of weaving and hosiery manufacture. It is found that 
 the most careful and efficient work is done by intelligent and re- 
 spectable operatives ; cheap labor is not profitable. 
 
 6 O 
 
STERLING & FRANCINE CLARK ART INSTITUTE 
 
 NK8804 .B44 1884 stack 
 
 Belding Bros. & Co/The self-instructor i 
 
 3 1962 00074 1698