D I I K< I B - I ' ■ ■ K' ■■ m H' ' I IB I (Decoratii^cAtt Qouethoru STERL1 N G AND FRAN CINE CLARK, ART INSTITUTE LIBRARY" ill ill _._ .- ..—.._.; ■ '■■......W.-.. fc r i 1 >*\ E8MPIETE OTiE m TIE WftftK-TJULE. ooisTT^insrinsTG- iitstbtjotioits 131 BERLIN WORK, CROCHET, DRAWN-THREAD WORK, EMBROIDERY, KNITTING, KNOTTING OR MACRAME, LACE, NETTING, POONAH PAINTING-, & TATTING WITH IJumwmtfi Illustrate and dlolouwd g^ipa. London E. HARRISON, MERTON HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, FLEET STREET. 1884. hh^bhhmh £*r c Y6? INDEX. BERLIN WORK, Brocart de Bourgoyne Chenille . Design on Java Diaper Pattern Fancy Stitches Framed Cros3 Stitch Framed Star . Fringe Fringe of Wool through Canvas Gobelin . , Introduction . Leviathan and Cross Stitcli Plait, Cross, and Long Stitches Plait Stitches, A Variety of . Point de Fantasie . Point Reprise on Java Canvas Raised Berlin Hook Satin, Cross, and Back Stitches Satin Stitch , . . . Sofa Cushion Star Pattern, Raised or Plush Stitch Vandyke and Back Stitches. CROCHET. Basket Pattern, Tricot Chain Stitch . Cross Treble . Design for Shawls Directions for Holding Work Double .... Double Foundations Double and Treble |. Double Treble Edging, Crochet and Hairpin Hook Edging, Crochet and Mignardise. Fringe. Fork Work , Hairpin Work , Half Treble ..... Insertion, Crochet and Fancy Gimp Insertion, Roll Picota and Mignardise Introduction >...., PAGE 120 120 120 115 120 115 115 120 120 115 115 114 114 115 115 115 120 115 114 114 120 114 14 11 14 15 11 11 11 14 14 10 10 14 14 11 10 15 11 Materials Muscovite Tricot Shell Pattern Single Crochet Treble . Tricot . Tricot and Treble Trimming Trimming, Crochet and Honiton Braid Trimming, Crochet and Waved Braid Trimming, Hairpin Work . Tuft Stitch Wool Ball PAGE 11 14 14 11 14 14 14 14 15 15 15 II. 14 DRAWN-THREAD WORK, OR POINT COUPE. Armenian Lace Trimmings ni Border, Drawn Threads and Reticella Work . 10G Border or Insertion, Drawn Threads and Spun Stitches m Border, Interlaced [ 107 Border, Pyramid, Cross, and Armenian Stitches' 111 Borders 107 Cane Pattern [ 107 Feather or Coral Stitch ...,'. Ill Herringbone Pattern * m Insertion or Stripe [ 107 Introduction ] 107 Reticella Lace " 111 Simple Design ] 107 EMBROIDERY. Applique .... 8 ArraBene . , 6,8 7 Beading Chain Stitch 7 Choice of Designs 3 Cording Stitch , . . 6 INDEX. IN s. Cotton, a la Croix . * . , Couching Stitch . Covering Joins of Foundations Crowds .... Description of Coloured Supplement Dot Stitch .... Feather or Coral Stitch Gold and Silver Thread Herringbone Stitch Interlaced Ground Introduction Italian Stitch . Knot Stitch .... Materials used for Embroidery Materials for Foundations . Mode of Stretching Embroidery Needles .... Paste for Applique Embroidery Satin Stitoli .... Silks Tracing Twisted Stitches . Washing Crewel Work KNITTING, Bed Rest . , Bodice, Infant's , Boot, Infant's Border for Counterpane Brioche or Patent Cable . Cane Work . Casting Off . Casting On . Coral Pattern. Cord Counterpane, Borders for Counterpane, Diamond Stripe for Counterpane, Hexagon Counterpane, Square for Counterpane, Stripe for Description of Stitches Diamond Diamond with Open Trellis Double Knitting . Double Rose Leaf . Edging . Escallops Fancy Pattern for Socks and Stockin Feather Pattern . General Directions Glove, Infant's Herringbone Stripe Implements . Insertions Introduction . Jacket for Lady . Knee Cap Knickerbocker Stockin Knit at tho Back . Knit in the Kound Knitting Knit Two in Ono . Knit Two Together Leaf and Trellis . Make a Stitch Mat. Brioche . Materials . Mitten . Oval and Diamond Pattern Pass Slip Stitch Over Patent or Brioche ■13, VLcr. 6 7 7 6 8 7 7 0,7 7 7 3 7 6 3 8 6 8 6 G 3 7 8 G3 47 62 34 38 38 38 38 3G 55 47 $1,63 58 43 48 62 37,38 48 48 38 55 43 64 54 5G 35 55 38 35 3,51 35 56 42 42 38 37 37 38 38 50 37 56 35 39 47 38 38 Pence Jug Petticoat, Child's . Petticoat, Infant's Petticoat in Stripes Purling or Ribbing Ribbing with Two Pins Shawl, Design for Shawl, Half Square Slip a Stitch Sock, Child's Sock, Gentleman's Stitches, To Raise Stocking, Ladies' Winter Stripe for Hem, Top of Stocking, &c. Stripe with Crochet Edge Tobacco Bat.' Triangular Kilted Pattern Trimming for Chemise Twisted Bar Stripe Vandyke Pattern . Vest, Infant's Wave Pattern , KNOTTING- OR MACRAME. Bar with Knots .... Cross Knot for Open Diamonds Fringe of Two Colours Fringes General Hints .... Glass-Headed Pins . . , Heading Ribs and Diamonds Heading with Slanting Ribs Knotted Heading of Fringed Threads Lead Cushion .... Leading Bar with Solomon Knots Macrame Knot .... Materials Picot Heading .... Rich Knot with Eight Strands Simple Chain .... Spherical Knot .... Spiral Cord Steel Crochet Hooks Tools Required .... Waved Bar .... Waved Loop .... lit PAGE 34 54, 62 51 56 37 39 62 51 37 46 60 38 63 51 47 47 39 54 38 38 39 62 94 95 90 95 91 91 94 94 95 94 95 94 91 95 94, 95 95 94 95 91 91 95 95 LACE. LIMOGES. Instructions Stitches used in Limoges .... OLD POINT. Materials for Old Point .... Old Point, Directions for .... POINT AND HONITON. Bar Rosette Buttonhole Bars Buttonhole Stitch Backwards, Point de Veuiso Buttonhole Stitch Looped, Point Turo Buttonhole Stitch, Point d'Anvors and Point dt Malines Buttonholo Stitch, Point de Bruxelles Buttonhole Stitches, Point de Sorento Cravat End .... Cross Rosette Directions for Tracing , Double Leaf with Vein Festoon Joinu^, Point d'Esprit 79 SO 75 , 75 72 72, 74 71 71 71 71 71 (56 74 66 72 71 )V INDEX. PAGE Lace Border 72 Leaf Ornamentation ...... 72 Loose and Twisted Bars, Point d'Alene,on . . 71 Materials 66 Mode of Tracing and Sewing on Braid . . 66 Open Wreath Rosette 74 Ovals in Point Alenc,on 74 Pioota for Bars 72 Pyramid Pattern, Irish Stitch .... 72 Pyramid Rosettes and Ovals .... 74 Rosette Pattern, Point d'Angleterre ... 72 Rosette Squares 74 Spinning Wheels 72, 74 Squares with Pyramid Scallops, Point d'Esprit Rings, &c. 75 Square with Rings in Point d'Esprit and Open Scallops 74, 75 Trefoils , 72 74 72 74 80 74 80 80 80 Trefoil Rosette Twisted Lace Stitch, Point d'Espagne Various Designs for Filling in Squares Washing, Directions for . , , Wheels with Thread Bars . VENETIAN POINT. Directions for Working Materials for Venetian Point Trimming ...... NETTING. FANCY NETTING. Border, Cross Netting, and Twisted Loops Border, Honeycomb and Rose Border, Rose and Sheaf Border, with Bunches of Loops . Border, with Double Loose Loops Border, with Round Loop Heading Border, with Tufts and Scalloped Edg Circle, Mode of Beginning . Common Netting .... Cross Netting .... Curtains ..... Design for Antimacassars, Fichus, &o Design with Long and Crossed Loops Design with Twisted Loops Diagonal . . , , . Diamond Pattern .... Diamond Pattern and Round Netting Doily Edging, Double Fan or Sheaf Fan Pattern Foundation, Interlaced Foundation, with Holes for Embroidery Foundation, with Needlework Fringe . . Honeycomb . . . . Insertion, Rose and Plain Netting Introduction ..... Lappets for Caps .... Loop Nettine .... Loose Loop Pattern Mitten Neckerchief Night Net I Open and Darned Stripa Rose Netting .... Rose Netting, Plain and Striped Scallop Square Pattern .... Star Netting .... Stripe Netting .... Tassel and Fringe , . , 135 126 134 131 131 134 134 127 123 126 135 135 134 134 126 134 123 127 131 131 127 123 127 135 126 126 123 130 123 127 135 135 135 127 122 126 131 126 126 126 135 Trimming, Thick Loops and Fan Edge Trimmings GUIPURE NETTING ition Angular Edge Circular Foundation Cravat End . Double Cross Festoon and Trellis Combin General Remarks . Guipure in Relief . Implements . Introduction . Knot for Joining . Mesh .... Mushroom Stitch . Needle, To Fill . Netting, Directions for Oblong .... Picota .... Points Croise, Cross Stitch Point d'Esprit, Festoon Stitch Point de Reprise and Festoon Point de Toile, Trellis Stitch Point Erantail, Fan Stitch Point Reprise or Darning Stitch Pyramid .... Quarter Square Scallops .... Slanting. Spinning Stitch and Wheels Square .... Square Foundations S Stitch .... Star or Radii . Stirrup .... Trellis and Wheels Combination Tufted Buttonhole Wire Frame , oo IS, PACK 127 23 22 26 31 23 23 31 19 19 20 19 30 19 22 30 27 27 23 23 23 30 23 30 31 30 22 27 31 22 31 31 19 2:i 30 POONAH PAINTING. Diagram of Coloured Design for Damask Rose Directions, General Directions for Painting on Silks and Satins o Light Shades Formulas Mixing Colours Painting on Paper Painting on Velvet Preparations for Painting on Wood Varnish 82 82 88 83 85 88 86 88 si TATTING. Design for Square Doilys, &c 103 Edging with Beads 102 Edging with Two Threads 103 Insertion 102 Insertion and Trimming 103 Introduction <»!) Josephine Knot ....... 102 Picot 102 Ring and Pin 99 Rosette 103 Rosette in Progress 102 Shuttle 99 Square , , 103 Stitches 99 Tatting with Two Shuttlos 102 To Wash 104 Work Basket, Ornamented . , . , . 98 -. »■•«•«! '.. .»■ csMPUTi mim m tie wsik-tabii. ^f^r EMBROIDERY. ~>mw$ •:• coloured •:• iiiii'asTJ?7iTioi].-<- ALSO FULL DIRECTIONS FOR SILK. CREWEL, AND ARRASENE WORK, WITH &IA&EAMS $W STIT€H1^. m ■ *.P$EE7I(5E.« C£2,&j£>~ IaVING received so many compliments from our subscribers or. the nsefuluea, of the Supple- « ments entitled "THE COMPLETE GUIDK TO THE WORK-TABLE/' end so many "T earnestly-expressed wishes that these Supplements, who,, completed, should b d ,„ a Volume, bound, we have complied with these reeuests, Rowing that the little book wiU at all times be serviceable to ladies who deske to understand the element*,)- parts of Fancy ^ orh. In addition to plain Directions and perfect Illustrations of the various Stitches and Instructions in different hinds of Fancy Worh, - THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WOEE-TABLE con- tains an immense number of useful and elegant Designs for a great variety of articles winch are not affected by changes of fashion. "THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE » will be especially useful to readers „, THE Yowo LW -TonnXA,., as we shall fluently refer to it. In order to save repettmn, and thereby utilize space in o* pages, this Edition has been carefully revised. London, January, ISSJf. ♦THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL* COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. *W »4<- ■ EMBROIDERY. INTRODUCTION. Tt is about seven years since embroidery once again becamo the favourite work of English ladies; for many years previous to that time, only the professional embroil. I to venture upon work, which* was by most ladies regarded as extremely difficult. Wo believe embroidery is indebted for its revival to the specimens of old work which have been exhibited from time to time at the South Kensington Museum ; and for its present popularity to tho favour it has found with Royalty and Mobility, who have done so much in establishing tho Royal School of Art Needle- work, at South Kensington, where embroidery is to be seen in perfection. The Supplement of Crewel-work which wo issued in 1877 did very much in popularizing this elegant and artistic ork ; crewel led the" way to the mani- pulation of silk an more costly ma1 lit time wo find embroidery a subject of general interest to our subscribers. Embroidery is not at all difficult : and wo cannot winder at it being especially interesting work to all ladies possessing artistic taste, because, from tho pliant character of tho stitches, almost everything that can bo painted can be imitated— flowers", fruit, birds, animals, and even landscapes — while the articles of dress and furniture which may be ornamented by its means are very numerous. CHOICE OF DESIGNS. Perhaps the first thing that should bo borne in id, is, that tho choice of designs is an important feature ; they should be selected as well drawn, as open, as possible; crowded designs are not suited to the production of artistic embroidery. M lLS used for foundations. Tho founde,! lly employed for embroidery aro unbleached linen of a good even 'make— that known as Bolton sheeting is a material much in use for doilys, toil. (S-sachets, chair-backs, and one-yard square table-covers. Bolton sheeting being inexpensive, we recommend its use to beginners. There aro other materials which aro employed for foundations for various pur uch as Roman satin, twilled silk, broccatine, honeycomb tapestry, oat-cake cloth, platted linen, serge, diagonal cloth, felt of various colours, cricketing flannel, Holland, nainsook muslin, satin, plush, and velvet. Very elaborate piecesof embroidery are betterworl in a frame; but for all ordinary purposes, suci chair-backs, doilys, small table-covers, &c, it is best to work in tho hand. Somo materials, such as thin satin, need lining before you begin to work— a thin, open kind of Irish linen is the best thing we know of for the purpose. It should be tacked very evenly to tho foundation at tho edges, and a stitch here and there may be put in and drawn out before you work re the tacking st TRACING. Tho following method of tracing is the simplest and easiest wo can give : — Place tracing-paper over the design, and trace with a coloured pencil tho outlines and yeins of the design. Turn tho tracing over, and traco over its back with a B.B. black lead pencil. Next place tho tracing, the black sido next tho material; fasten the material and tracing upon a drawing-board ore; s with drawing-pins. Having si 'tho 1, and made it smooth, draw over the coloured outline with a sharp, short-pointed II.II.H. pencil, holding tho pencil as upright, as possible. This will ;■ to tho material (if white or light-coloured) a fine, firm line. The advantage in using tho coloured il for the first tracing is this : that when you are making the final transfer with a black pencil, you can ctly how you progress, so that no portion of the drawing will be found unfinished when the tracing- paper is removed. It may here be well to caution ladies in the purchase of drawing-pins to obtain only those with solid heads, because no danger is incurred by tho thumb in pressing them down. Sometimes tho steel of the commoner Icinds of drawing-pins comes through the head and inflicts a wound. Another mode of transferring more rapidly than the former is intended for those who have learnt to draw. Make a tracing of tho design with a fine r encil. Lay il on the material, and pin down firmly. With a strong darning-needle or stiletto prick the outline of the tracing well through the paper. Then remove the tracing-paper, and, with the original design before you for your guidance, draw over the lines outlined on the material, the complete design. Another plan, which will also answer very well, is to place carbonic paper upon tho material, place the design over it, and with an agate, or any other point, trace over every part of tho design. You must be careful that neither the material nor tho design be shifted during tho process of tracing. You can get the carbonic paper either in blue or red. Tho blue is useful for white or light-coloured materials ; the red answers best upon black or dark colours. Francis' patent transfer cloth is specially prepared for tracing on either light or dark coloured materials. Tho light colour is sold at Is. 6d. per sheet, the dark at Is/ This is very valuable where much tracing is required, as it can be used a great numbor of times, and is so very clean that there is no fear of soiling the foundation in its use. All these thii worth knowing where ladies design for themselves — where they desire to copy outlines of such designs as aro i icntly produced in The Young Ladies' Joujjxal or in other publications. Since embroidery h ana popular, ! manufacturers have prodi: ont. transferring-papers which save ladies tho trouble of tracing.' Messrs. Briggs and Co. 's designs are trans- ferred to the material by placing them on it, and ing over them a hot iron. Poirson's patent, transfer papers aro first wetted on the back, and are then laid on tho foundation, and tho design is trans* f erred to it by slight pressure with a paper or palette knifo. THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL MO. 3.— RAISED FLOWEB WORKED LENGTHWISE. NO. 4.— DESIGN IN OUTLINE EMBBOIDEBT. Un ii 1 .1 — ' lllili ' iliiil " — '■" NO. $.— RAISED FLOWEB < WORKED CROSSWISE. 'jgMfc & NO. 6.— KNOT-STITCH. NO. 7.— FLAT PETALS. NO. 8.— KNOT-STITCH. NO. 9.— BORDED : ITALIAN-STITCH. JO. 1 « .—BEADING-STITCH. NO. 10.— MONOGRAM : EMBROIDIiRY. NO. 1 2.— MONOGRAM : EMBKOIDEKV. jam wmwmnmmr complete guide to the work-table. NO. I3-— GOLD THREAD EMBROIDERY. NO. 14.— APPLIQUE WITH CUAIN-STITCn EDGE. NO. tg.— SILK AXP GOLD THREAD EMBROIDERY, ft ■ | 1 \ ■* % 7/ "A ■ ■-.-..- 1 NO. 16.— TWISTED STTTCH OP SILK OF TWO COLOURS. NO. 19.— rrr.\rT AND CORAL- STIXCII. NO. 23. COUCHING-EDGE FOB APPLIQUE EMBROIDERY. NO. 23. — CHAIN-STITCH . i CORD. NO. 22.— FMBROTPERT FOP. COVERING A JOIN OF TWO MATER] 6 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL laieqmfe mtfi fyt Jbmbqrifo$tim%* For the reason that embroidery is extremely dura- ble, it is best to select materials of the best quality to embroider with. It is not advisable to wind crewel, or embroidery silk ; the skein should be cut twice, and either put into thread papers or drawn through stitched cases made for the purpose ; the latter are neat and durable, and keep the materials free from being soiled or dis- coloured by the effect of the atmosphere. SILK. Silks should be those of the best makers, and should not be chosen for their cheapness, but for their soft- ness and freedom from an admixture of cotton, as the brilliancy of good silk is so much longer retained than that of a common make. The silks mostly employed are embroidery silk, crewel embroidery silk, and fast-dyed embroidery silk. CREWEL. The word " Crewel," according to Johnson, comes from the Dutch word Klewel, which he defines as yarn twisted and wound on a knot or ball. The crowd that was in use for ladies' embroidery at the beginning of this century was in tightly-twisted small skeins. The crewel at present in use is a loosely twisted yarn, or worsted, and is in much larger skeins than formerly. It is now sold in all shades and colours. To the soft blending of shades the beauty of the work is in great measure due. Crewel is sold in two sizes, fine and coarse. ARRASENE. Arrascne is a newly-invented material for embroi- dery, resembling in appearance fine chenille, but is flat instead of round. Arrascne is made in both silk and wool, in a great number of beautiful colours and shades. It produces very effective work, and wears extremely well ; it is especially suited for working largo flowers and foliage plants. Arraseno should be used in short lengths, as long needlefuls become im- poverished by being drawn through and through tho foundation. A very mistaken idea exists with some persons respecting arrasene, which is, that it cannot be used for working through thick materials ; it is quite as easy to embroider velvet, plush, or felt with arrasene as with silk or crewel, and the work can bo done in very much less time. GOLD AND SILVER THREAD. Gold and silver thread is a good deal used for out- lining embroidery of both silk, arrasene, and crewel. Lad :ld bo especially careful to purchase this material of t quality, otherwise it so very soon hed, that it is not worth working ; it should bo kept closely wrapped in tissue paper. COTTON A LA CROIX. re is no make of cotton that produces a better effect upon embroidery muslin, muslin, or linen than cotton a la croix. NEEDLES. For embroidery in silk, crewel, or cotton a la croix, Walker's Elliptic needles are the best we know of. For ai'rasene or thick wool embroidery chenille needles should be used. They resemble a Berlin needle in the eye, but differ from it in having a sharp point. $ i^mptixm til CORDING-STITCH. In cording-stitch begin with the stalk of your design, and work as shown in illustrations Nos. 1 and 2 (page 4), working towards the right and left. Wher- ever it is practicable work in curved lines. When you have reached the top of your work, turn it round, and work towards tho bottom, then again upwards, so as always to work from you. If you begin with tho central vein of a leaf, continue to work from the centre to the edge. Never work be- tween two lines of stitches, so as to fill up, as it were, between work, as this plan will entirely spoil tho effect of the stitch. Keep the coloured design before you, and shade according to it. Two kinds of stitches aro generally used in crewel embroidery. The principal is the cording-stitch, to which we have already called attention; the other is the knot-stitch, shown in illus- trations 6 and 8. The vase shown in No. 4, Outline Embroidery, is nearly all worked in cording-stitch. and therefore affords a good specimen of the effect which can be produced by this useful stitch. We may hero observe that where tho cording-stitch is practicable it is the best to use, especially whore the articles aro intended to bo washed. KNOT-STITCH. To work the knot-stitch your needle and silk must bo pulled through to the front of tho work exactly where you desire the knot to be. Sold tho silk down with the thumb of the left hand, and twist the twice or thrice, according to the size of tho knot re- quired, through the part of the silk which is tightened by the left thumb (see illustration No. 6). Conti to hold tho silk with your left thumb, and turn tho needle quite round towards tho loft with your right hand. Insert it the distance from the place it was brought up (shown by a small cross in No. 8). Con- tinue to hold the silk with the left thumb until you hare drawn the knot to its proper degree of tightness. If you have followed exactly our instructions, you will have a knot liko tho one shown in the designs Nos. 6 and 8. SATIN-STITCH. In more elaborate embroidery i the satin- st.it; iwn in Nos. 3 to 5 and 7 may be us The irking these is so clearly shown that there is no need of much description. Where a rich raised effect is desired it can bo produced by running between the outline more or less thickly (see No and 5). If a fiat appearance is desired, work without running under (seo No. 8). Tho embroidered cr shown on the outer leaf of Supplement compi •; cording, long, satin, and dot stitches. •> Satin-stitch is much used in working monograms or initial letters, also for working generally on embroidery muslin or linen ; if for white embroidery, there is no better cotton for the purpose than cotton ala croix. Examples of satin-stitch will be found in monograms Nos. 10 and 12. F-SEOnwueomaiix COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 9 DOT-STITCH. Dot-stitch is a very short stitch, worked like back- stitch, with the exception that the needle is not put back to the place it is drawn out from, but an interval of about the length of the stitch remains unworked. Dot, cording, and satin stitches are shown in No. 10. FEATHER OR CORAL STITCH. The feather or coral stitch may sometimes be in- troduced with good effect for the light parts of embroidery. Make a knot, and draw the silk through the work. Hold the silk down with your thumb, keeping it towards the right hand. Put the needle in about tho eighth of an inch from where the silk is drawn through, take a stitch slanting downwards towards the left about the eighth of an inch in length, and draw the silk up. For tho next stitch your thread must bo turned completely round towards the left, and tho stitch must be taken slanting towards the right. These two stitches are repeated alternately. (See centre of illustration Xo. 19). The feather-stitch is shown in this design, on a groundwork of stitches, aad running between two lines of chain-stitch. CHAIN-STITCH. For chain-stitch, mako a knot, draw tho silk through the material, hold the silk down with the thumb, work a short stitch in a straight line, and draw it up. For the next stitch, continue to hold the silk down as described for tho first stitch, put the needle through the lower part of the last stitch, mako a stitch of the same length, and draw through. (See illustrations Nos. 17, 19, and 22). No. 17 shows a finished outline of chain-stitch. Nos. 19 and 22 show chain-stitch in the process of working. IIERRINGBON E-STITCH. This stitch comes effectively into some kinds of embroidery ; when worked, it resembles the letter X placed in continuous lines. The great point is to work in oven parallel lines. Put the needle in from right to left at the bottom line, take up a few threads, and draw out tho needle quite straight with the place you put it in. Then at an angle work another stitch in the same way at tho upper line, keeping your thread over tho little finger of the right hand. Ilerringbone- stitch is shown unequally worked in monogram No. 12, which also shows cording and satin stitches. A good illustration of herringbone-stitch is shown in illustration Xo. 9, where it presents the even appear- ance which is generally needed. BEADING -STITCH. # illustration No. 11 shows the exact mode of work- ing the stitch, which is used sometimes where very light sprays are introduced into a design. ITALIAN-STITCH. This work is now pretty well known as Holbein em- broidery, for the reason that Holbein introduced it in some of his paintings. Illustration No. 11 gives an exact though small specimen of the work, and shows - more clearly than any description the mode of work ing ; this work is quite as neat on the wrong as oi s the right side ; it is worked in back-stitch. In our illustration the lower part of the design is worked in herringbone-stitch. Italian-stitch is frequently intro- duced into cross-stitch designs. COUCHING-STITCH. Couching-stitch is frequently employed for covering joins ; it consists of a strand of cord, or of several strands of silk or wool, laid together and caught down by stitches of the same or some other material at equal distances. No. 18 shows an example of using cord ; No. 20 is a couching-stitch with wool. This stitch is at present much used in embroidery on plush. GOLD AND SILVER THREAD EMBROIDERY. This is the most costly style of embroidery, and is more used for ecclesiastical or church work than any other ; it is generally mixed with coloured embroi- dery-silk or filoselle. In some cases gold thread em- broidery is worked over slips of parchmant cut a trifle smaller than the outline of the design ; over this the gold thread is worked closely ; a specimen of this is shown in illustration No. 13. Illustration No. 15 shows a spray outlined with gold thread sewn down with fine silk stitches. The inner part of the designs are filled up with coloured embroidery-silk. Spangles are very frequently introduced into gold and silver em- broidery ; they are sewn over with silk, or gold, or silver thread. TWISTED-STITCH. Broad . arabesque designs are sometimes filled in witli this stitch. Silk or wool of one colour is held down and worked through with a second colour (see illustration No. 16). This design would be outlined with a couching-stitch. INTERLACED GROUND. No. 18 shows an effect produced by couching and ground ; the work has the appearance of applique when finished. Tho design is traced on the material, a ground is worked to the outline; filoselle is tho material mostly employed for this grounding. Tho stitch resembles cording-stitch, but is worked straight. In working, the needle is put through the middle of the silk (see illustration No. 18) ; the cord-couching is put on after the ground is finished. COVERING JOINS OF FOUNDATIONS. It is now usual to combine materials in working embroidery, and in some cases ornamental stitches are employe;! for the purpose. Wo give a very pretty joining in illustration No. 22 : it is worked partly in silk and partly in arrasone. The lower edge, which is silk, is worked with three long-stitches into a point. The arrasene upper edge is worked with two stitches ; a line of gold cord is laid along the centre of the two materials, and is sewn down at intervals with arrasene. . _ THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL APPLIQUE EMBROIDERY. Applique embroidery is very fashionable at present. The foundation for it is usually plush or velvet ; and satin is more often the material applied. Arabesque designs are mostly used for applique work. Unless the foundation is very firm it will require lining, and this is effected by pasting linen at the back, taking care not to wot the material too much. The design to be applied must be traced, then cut with scissors and pasted to the foundation, which should also be traced roughly for the different parts to be fitted to. When thus applied it must be allowed to dry. The founda- tion is best put into a frame, or it must be held down very firmly by weights in order to keep it quite flat whilst the applique is drying. The various stitches described for embroidery gene- rally are used on most applique designs ; the edges of the applique are sometimes buttonholed, sometimes worked in chain, and sometimes in cording stitch; and in some cases gold or silk cord is sewn over the edges. Illustration No. 14- gives an example of velvet applique" on a silk foundation with the edge worked over in chain-stitch. Illustration No. 18 shows a mode of edging applique with couching in cord. Illustra- tion No. 21 is a picot edge for applique worked with fine gold or silver thread ; it will be quite easy to twist the gold or silver thread into the picots as the stiffness will allow them to retain their form. Two strands of cord are sewn down with a third strand of the same. Illustration No. 22 shows another mode which is very rich ; it is a line of rich cord couched over a double line of chain-stitches. PASTE FOR APPLIQUE EMBROIDERY. To three tablespoonfuls of flour allow half a tea- spoonful of powdered resin, mix smoothly with half a pint of cold water, let it boil five minutes, stirring all the time ; if the paste is to bo kept some time, it will be found advisable to add a teaspoonful of essence of cloves into it whilst it is boilingr ARRASENE EMBROIDERY. We strongly recommend arrasene to the attention of our subscribers for its extreme beauty, as well as for its novelty and durability. We give a few hints on the working of arrasene, which wo trust will bo useful to our readers. The design must first be traced upon the material to be worked upon in the same way as for crewel or silk embroidery. Arrasene may be worked on plush, velvet, cloth, Utrecht velvet, satin, Roman satin, Java canvas, or crash. If on furniture-satin, it will not be necessary to line it ; if thin satin be used, a lining of muslin, thin linen, or some material of the kind will be needed. Arra- sene may be worked either in the hand or in a frame. If the piece of work be large, or the foundation be satin, a frame is convenient to prevent the work from puckering or shrinking, but there is no fear of that with a small piece of work. The needle used for working should be what is called a chenille needle ; it is like a Berlin-wool needle, with one exception— it has a sharp point; it must have a very large eye. Wool and silk arrasene are used separately or together ; the silk relieves and brightens the wool very much in the same way as filoselle is used to improve Berlin- wool work. The stitch mostly employed in arrasene is the same as cording-stitch, but it is worked rat-her longer. Care must be taken not to twist the arrasene in working ; as before mentioned, it is not well to use a very long needleful of arrasene, as it becomes somewhat im- poverished in working when used too long. The arra- sene requires to be drawn steadily through the material, so as to prevent roughening it too much. When the work is finished, a soft brush may be used to raise the pile and equalize the surface. Where a stitch of the arrasene does not quito fall in its place with other stitches, put the needle under it, and give it one twist, which will sometimes greatly improve the work. Arra- sene is shown in the upper edge of illustration No. 22. MODE OF STRETCHING FINISHED EMBROIDERY. When the work is finished it will be found that it has become much drawn and puckered. To remedy this a clean cloth must be wetted in clear cold water, wring it out tightly, and place it on a deal board or table, then put the work upon it face upwards. With drawing or other pins pin out the work and strain it as much as possible ; leave it for twelve hours in dry weather, and longer in damp weather; if it has been properly stretched it will be perfectly smooth when taken off the board. If it has not been tightly strained repeat the process, again wetting the cloth. WASHING CREWEL-WORK. We have previously said that crewels of the best quality should be purchased. The shades are better, and they wash well, if the following simple plan be observed :— Make a lather of the best primrose soap or curd soap, and rub the article to be washed in it. Do not put a particle of soap on the work. Rinse in clean warm water, and squeeze ; do not wring. Miake well, and stretch till dry, as directed for new work. Another mode is to tie a handful of bran in a muslin bag, and make with it a lather in warm water ; wash the crewel in this lather without using soap. Crewel embroidery worked with the brightest co- lours may be safely washed if previously immersed in a solution made by dissolving a pennyworth of sugar of lead in a quart of hot water ; dry, then wash in the usual way, using as HtUo soap as possible. $ t^tp [ithn ri[ (Mattr^ jluppfytt^t DESIGN IN EMBROIDERY FOR ALPINE PRIMULA. This design has been printed from the worked flower to give an exact idea of the proper length and place of stitches, also the mode of shading silk or crewel em- broidery ; it will be found a good guide for beginners, as few colours are needed to produce the proper effect. SPECIMENS OF CREWEL-WORK. A specimen of crewel or arrasene work can bo sent from the London Publishing Office of this Journal on receipt of 9d. C8MFIETI mm m TIE WM-XAJil. NO. I.— EDGING I CROCnET AND MIGNARDISE CROCHET. NO. 2.— insertion: ckociiet and fancy gimp. FULL DIRECTIONS FOR NO. 3.— EDGING: CROCHET AND HAIRPIN-TIORK. PLAIN AND FANCY CROCHET, TRICOT, HAIRPIN-WORK, ETC. fc.,iB«»-w. u -^, 10 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL DESCRIPTION «£|F ILLUSTRATIONS ON PAGE 9. ->eaaa@33Q3333E2»- No. 1.— EDGING : CROCHET AND MIGNARDISE. 1st Row : To form the scallops work one single into each of seven successive picots, pass tho cotton at the back of mignardise, and work one single into each of seven successive oicots on the other side. Repeat. 2nd Row • t.ine single into the first picot worked into of the &xr% row, one chain, one half treble into centre of scallop, one chain, one single into last stitch of scal- lop, pass the cotton • t the back of mignardise ; work the samo in next scallop. 3rd Row : Ono double treble into two picots together at right-hand side of scallop, two chain, one single into each of three next successive picots, two chain, one double trebb into tw~ next picots together ; keep the top loop of double treble on the hook. Repeat from the beginning of the row, drawing the top loops of tho two double trebles together. 4-th Row : Ono treble separated by one chain into each alternate stitch yl last row. This edging is an oxampls of working mignardise and crochet. No. 2.— INSERTION: CROCHET AND FANCY GIMP. Commence with the crochet rosette, work fifteen chain, join round. 1st Row : Twenty-four doubles under the chain. 2nd Row : On double treble into a stitch, fivo chain, one double treble into the same stitch, pass over ono stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the row eleven tines more. 3rd Row: * Three doubles under tho chain, four chain; take a length of cotton gimp, one single into the second picot, four chain, three doubles under same chain the last were worked into, from * five times more, work alternately into the second and fifth picots on each of three patterns of gimp, then take another length of gimp, and work the same on three patterns (see design). Cross the lengths of gimp be« f'oro commencing the next pattern. For the sides, one triple treble into the second picot of a pattern of gimp, work off all but tho last two loops, one double treble i .to the same picot, two double trebles into the fifth picot on the next pattern of gimp ; then work off the rest of the loops on the hook as for a treble, ten chain, two doublo trebles into the centre bar of gimp between two patterns (see design No. 2 on first page), six chain, one single into second picot on next pattern, * two chain, one single into next picot, repeat from * twico more, six chain, two double trebles into the bar between two next patterns of gimp, ten chain. Repeat from beginning of row. 2nd Row : One treble separated by one chain into each alternate stitch of last row. 3rd Row : One treble under a stitch, one chain, pass over one stitch, one treblo under each of two next stitches, one chain, pass over one stitch, and repeat. The other aide is worked in the same way. This is an example of crochet and fancy gimp. No. 3.— EDGING : CROCHET AND HAIRPIN WORK. Make a piece of hairpin-work the length required, (for illustration and description of hairpin-work, see No. 25). For the edge : — 1st Row: Work two doubles into three loops of hairpin-work together, three chain. Repeat from the beginning of tho row. For the edge : — Ono double, three half trebles, and one double under each three chain of last row. For the heading: — 1st Row : One "double into three loops of hairpin- work together, three chain. Repeat. 2nd Row: One treble separated by one chain into each alternate stitch of last row. This is an example of crochet and hairpin work. I UM H -HI I . I . M F «W 1 1 1 K .pflU'WmilWlp aiiWi.l ' H I' M I W ' "" ' HIII W ■ M | W COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. II CROCHET INTRODUCTION. Thr application of crochet for useful and orna- mental purposes is so varied, that it is work which will remain popular, in ono form or other, for years to come. Nevertheless, there is a diffi- culty sometimes experienced by the uninitiated in finding elementary instructions in crochet and tricot. This fact has come to our knowledge through correspondents having written to us £ time to time, asking us to give directions for the various . It is almost impossible to make ele- mentary instructions really useful without illustrating them, as we have dono in the clearest possiblo man- ner in the succeeding pages. We trust that this Crochet Supplement will be as much appreciated as our Embroidery Supplement has been. Crochet of a very lino quality was worked by nuns on the Continent in the sixteenth century, but was not popular work in England until about 1840, when for quite twenty years it was very fashionable ; and exceedingly beautiful designs— copies of Rose point and Venetian lace were much worked. This more ela- borate kind of crochet comes to England still in large quantities as Irish point. The work is very inex; sive as to cost of material : a handsome collar may bo made for sixpence, but skill and patience is needed to work well. MATERIALS. Good crochet-hooks are of tho utmost importance in forming nice even work. They should be very smooth and selected of a size suited" to the material to bo worked. Crochet and tricot hooks are ma.de of 6 for fine work, and of ivory, bone, wood, and vulcanite for coarse work. They should be measured like a knitting-pin, by inserting them in the round hole of luge. For measuring hooks we use Walker's bell gau We take tho opportunity of cautioning ladies never by any chance to put an unprotc el crochet- Is into their pockets ; accidents have been the fro- nt result of so i It should bo remembe that it i lypossil .novo a steel hook from flesh without tho aid of a surgeon. Crochet cotton is much better to use than knitting cotton for crochet, as the twist being tighter adds much to the good appearance of the work. Wools of all descriptions, purse-silk, braid, chenille, a: and gold and silver threads may all bo worked into different crochet articles. Fancy and plain braids, gimp and mignardise, are also frequently introduced into crochet designs. DIRECTIONS FOR HOLDING THE HOOK AND MATERIAL. When working crochet, the hook should be held ligl itly in the right hand between the thumb and t 1- fingers; it should be kept in a horizontal position. The work is held in the left hand ; the last worked stitches should be between the thumb and forefinger ; the thread passes over the first and second finger, under tho third, and over tho little finger. A chain foundation is required for all tho stitches forming crochet patterns. No. 1.— CHAIN-STITCH. Make a slip-knot, and pass it over the hook, put the thread over the hook, by a slight movement of the hands, draw the thread that is over the hook through the slip-loop. No. 2.— DOUBLE FOUNDATION. Work a chain as described for No. 1, break off the thread when the chain is the length required, make a slip-loop, pass it over the hook, insert tho hook into the first chain-stitch, taking up both loops, draw through the stitch worked into and tho loop on tho hook together. No. 3.— DOUBLE FOUNDATION, WORKED WITH ONE THREAD. Mako a slip-loop, pass it over tho hook, one chain, draw up a loop through the slip-loop, draw through both loops on the hook, * draw up a loop thisough the left loop, draw through both loops together. Repeat from *. No. 4.— DOUBLE FOUNDATION, WORKED WITH TWO THREADS. Mako a slip-knot and pass it over tho hook, make >ther slip-knot on a second length of thread, pass it over tho hook, draw through both loops with the left- hand thread; work one chain with tho right-hand thread, and ono with the left alternately; the alter- nate threads must bo tightened after each stitch. This makes a pretty guard, if worked with coarse purse silk. . 5.— SINGLE CROCHET. Tut tho hook through the first stitch, draw tho ad through the stitch worked into and the loop on tho hook together. Put the the thread tion, then together. No. 6.— DOUBLE CROCHET, hook through a stitch of foundation, twist over the hook, draw through tho founda- draw through both loops on the hook No. 7.— HALF TREBLE. Turn tho thread over tho hook, pass tho hook through a stitch of foundation, draw through, turn tho thread again over tho hook, and draw through all t Hree loops on tho hook together. 12 THE YOUXG LADIES' JOURNAL W^^^^^^X' 'f^ti^L NO. I.— CHAIN. NO. g. — SINGLE CROCHET. NO. 6. — I) iUBLE CROCHET. NO. 3.— DOULLK J'OUNDATION. NO. 7.— HALF TREBLE. NO. 4.— CHAIN AVI 111 TWO NC. 10. — DOUBLE AND TREBLE. NO. II.— CROSS TREBLE. NO, 13.— BASKET PATTERN : T~t T .COT. vwonN^Hm COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TAB NO. I4.— TMCOT AND TRRBLR. NO. J$. — TUFT-STITCH. NO. 17.— CARD 1 i).: 1 ) XO. 18.— WOOL WOUND OVER CARD FOB BALLS. NO. 31— FRINGE FORK. .'. PA'! NO. l6, — MUSCOVITE TRICOT. mi r* imt M»MMM< NO. ig.— TIED BAIL. NO. 33.— DETAIL OF FBl.NOE. NO. 22.— FBINiE: FORK- WORK AND CROCHET. " — THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL No. 8.— TREBLE. Put the thread once over the hook, insert the hook o tho foundation, draw a loop through the foundation ; you will then have three loops on the hook, turn the thread again over tho hook, draw through two loops, turn the thread again over the hook, and draw through the two next loops together. No. 9.— DOUBLE TREBLE. Put the thread twice over the hook, insert the hook into the foundation, turn tho thread over the hook, draw through the foundation, turn the thread over the hook, draw through two loops, turn the thread over the hook a second time, and draw through two loops, turn the thread a third time over the hook, and draw through the two last loops on the hook. No. 10.— DOUBLE AND TREBLE. The 1st and 2nd Rows are worked in double-stitches throughout. 3rd Row : Work five doubles, then work two trebles into the first row (see arrow). Repeat throughout the row. 4-th and 5th Rows .- Like first and second rows. 6th Row : Like third row, but work the two treble stitches into tho third row to commence with ; this alternates the pattern. Repeat from first row. No. 11.— CROSS TREBLE. Turn the thread twice round tho hook, insert tho hook into a stitch, turn the thread over the hook, draw through the stitch, turn the thread over the hook, draw through two loops together, turn the thread over the hook, pass over two stitches, insert the hook into the next stitch, draw through, pass the thread over tho hook, draw through two loops, pass tho thread over tho hook, draw through two loops, pass the thread over tho hook, draw through all the loops on tho hook together, two chain, one treble into centra of cross treble. Repeat from tho beginning. No. 12.— TRICOT. Make a foundation chain the length required, allowing one chain over for tho forward row. In tricot a row consists of working up and off tho loops. Insert the hook into the second stitch of chain, draw up a loop, keep it on the hook, and continue to draw up a loop through each of tho following chain-stitcl In working off put the thread over the hook, draw through the last loop, * puj in over hook, and draw through two loops on tho li together. Repeat from * to the end of tho row. In the second and following forward rows woi the loops through the front perpendicular loop of each stitch of provious row, commencing with the second perpendicular loop. The last loop of a tricot row appears to lie somewhat at the back of the work. Care must bo taken to work it, or a straight edgo cannot be obtained. No. 13.— BASKET-PATTERN TRICOT. Make a chain the length required. 1st Row : Work up a loop through the first stitch, work one chain through the loop. Repeat until all tho loops are worked up. In working off, work through a j p each alternate loop off tho ho work three chain between tho loops worked through. 2nd Row: Pass the slipped-off loop at tho back of the chain, draw up a loop through it, then work ono chain through the loop, draw up a loop through tho next loop, and under the chain, work ono chain through the loop. Repeat from tho beginning of the worked up ; the loops are 'cscrjbsd for the first row. The second row is repeated throughou Observe. — The working up and off is reckoned in tricot as one row. No. 14.— TRICOT AND TREBLE. 1st and 2nd Rows : Plain tricot (see No. 12). 3rd Row : Work up one loop, * work one treble into the first row, work up four loops. Repeat from * to the end of the row ; work off in tho usual way. 4th Row: Plain tricot. 5th Row : Work up three loops, * ono treble into the third row, work up four loops. Repeat from * to the end of row ; work off in the usual way. 6th Row : Plain tricot. Repeat from the third row. No. 15.— TUFT-STITCH CROCHET. 1st Row : Ono double into each stitch. 2nd Mow : C ible into a stitch, draw up a loop through the next stitch, draw tiio right side of the loop with the finger and thumb of left hand, over ; left sido of loop (see arrow), insert the hook into the loop thus held by the finger, draw up a loop, turn the thread over the hook, draw up another loop through the same loop, draw through five loops on the honk together, work up a loop through the last stitch worked into, draw through both loops on tho ) ether. These two rows are repeated throughout, arranging the tuft-stitches so that they lie be; r in alternate rows ; this is dona by commencing one p i row with the double, and the other with a tuft- stitch. No. 16.-MUSCOVITE TRICOT. 1st Row : Work up the loops as for ordinary tricot, work off tho first loop, * three chain, work off the two next loops. Repeat from * to the end of row. 2nd Row: Work up the loops like last row, * three chain, work off two loons. Repeat from * to the end of row. Thcso two rows are repeated alternately. Nos. 17 to 19.— WOOL BALL. In making wool balls tho size of the circles of card must be regulated by the size you wish tho ball to be ; two circles of card must bo cut to exactly the same size, with a hole in tho centre, as shown in No. 17. With a needle and wool sew evenly o\ : ; cards, hown in No. 18; continue to sew over and o until the centre hole is (pule filled; cut tho a-, with a sharp penknife or s< i i the cent cards (sco No. 19), , ds, rub the ball in the hand, steam it over boiling water, and trim tho . with a pair of scissors. A ball ma.de over a circle of card measuring four inches in diameter, with a hole in tho centre one and a half inch in diameter, and a variety of colours of Berlin wool tied strongly between the discs with lino twine, makes a capital ball for children to play with in the house. No. 20— SHELL-PATTERN CROCHET. Make a chain tho length required, draw up a loop through each of five successive stitches, draw through all tho loops on tho hook, close tho cluster with one chain, * draw up a loop under the ain, another through the back perpendicular loop of last stitch, and ono through each of two next stitches, draw through all tho loops on tho hook together, closo with one chain. Repeat from * to the required si For the edge : — 1st Row : One double into every stitch, 2nd Row : One double into a stitch, * pass over two stitches, eight trebles under next stitch. Rei *. ~"*l COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 15 3rd Row : One double into each stitch of last row. A ball as described in Nos. 17 to 19 is tied between each scallop. NOS. 21 to 23.— FRINGE : FORK- WORK AND CROCHET. The fork-work for this fringe is made on a fork, as will be seen in Illustrations Nos. 21 and 23. No diffi- culty will be found in working it if attention be paid to tho^e illustrations. Make a loop of Andalusian wool, pass it over the narrow side of the fork, turn the fork, and you will hive a loop over the wide side; draw up a loop through the first loop on the hook (see Illustration No. 21), turn the fork, draw up a loop through the wide loop (see No. 23), draw through both loops together, turn the fork, draw up a loop through the narrow loop, draw through both loops on the hook together. Repeat from * for tho length required. For the crochet heading, which is worked with a lighter colour of wool : 1st Row : One double into two of tho wide loops of fork-work together, turning tho loops as shown in Illustration No. 22, two chain. Repeat. 2nd Row : One double under two chain, three chain. Repeat. For tho edge : '.Work one double into two of tho small loops together (see design), five chain, repeat ; strands of wool about ono and a half inch deep are knotted into the loop of five chain to form tassels ; a little ball of tho lightest shado of wool is sewn under the head- ing at equal distances. The ball is made according to directions in Nos. 17 to 19. No. 24 .—TRIMMING : CROCHET AND WAVED BRAID. For the edge : — 1st Row : Ono treblo into the right-hand side of a scallop of braid, two chain, one treble into the top of same scallop, three chain, ono treble into braid (see design), two chain, one treble into braid. Repeat from the beginning of the row. 2nd Row : One treble into second treble of last row, threo chain, one treble into first of three chain, three chain, one treble into the next stitch, three chain, one treble into the same stitch, three chain, ono treble into the next stitch, three chain, one treble into top of treble of last row, one double into the first treble worked into top of next scallop of braid, nino chain, one double into next treble. Repeat from the begin- ning of tho row. 3rd Row : One double under first three chain of second row, * five chain, ono treblo into the first, one double under next chain; repeat from * threo limes moro, four chain, ono double into fifth of nino •hain, four chain. Repeat from the beginning of tho row. For tho heading: — 1st Row : Like first row of edge. 2nd Row : One treble under first three chain of last row, live chain, ono double under next chain, five chain, one treble under next chain. Repeat from tho beginning of tho row. 3rd Row: Ono double under five chain of last row, five chain. Repeat. The stitches in tho braid are worked with coloured cotton. Example of crochet and waved braid. No. 25.— HAIRPIN-WORK. Make a slip loop, pass it over one side of tho pin, turn the pin round, and you will have a loop on each side. Draw up a loop through the first loop, ono chain, *, take out the hook, turn the pin, and insert tho hook in the loop from which it was withdrawn ; one double under the loft-hand loop. Repeat from * for tho length required. No. 26.— TRIMMING : CROCHET AND HONTTON BRAID. For the heading : — 1st Row : One double treble into a bar between two patterns of braid, fivo chain, one treble into third hole at tho edge of the braid, five chain, pass over five ;, one half treblo into the next, five chain, pass over four holes, ono doublo into the next, live chain, pass over four holes, one half treblo into the next, live chain, pass over five holes, ono treble into the next, fivo chain. Repeat from the beginning of row. 2nd Row : One treblo into centre of first chain, * fivo chain, one half treble into centre of next live chain, repeat from * three times more, five chain, one treblo into centre of next fivo chain, fivo chain. Re- peat from the beginning of the row. 3rd Row : One half treble into centre of fivo chain of last row, three chain. Repeat. 4th Row : One treblo separated by one chain into each alternate stitch of last row. For the edge : One treble into the bar between two patterns of braid, two chain, one treble into the second hole on the edge of next pattern of braid, three chain, pass over two holes, one treblo into tho next hole * three chain, one single into first, repeat from * twico more, one treble into top of last treble, pass over two holes, one treble into the next, three chain, pass over two holes, ono treble into tho next, repeat from first * twico more, two chain. Repeat from the beginning of the row. Example of crochet and Honiton braid. No. 27. — TRIMMING: CROCHET AND HAIRPIN WORK. Make a piece of hairpin-work the length required, according to directions given for No. 25. For the edge of trimming : One single into a loop of hairpin-work, three chain, one single into the first, one chain, ono single into each of fifteen loops of hair- pin-work, three chain, one single into first picot, ono chain, ono single into second of three chain, ono chain, * ono double into a loop of hairpin-work, five chain, one double into tho second, ono chain, repeat from * six times moro, then repeat from the beginning of the row. For the heading: — 1st Row : Ono chain, ono single, separated by one chain, into each of throe loops of hairpin-work in tho depth of a scallop, one single into each of nine loops, one single separated by one chain into each of three next loops, one chain, one single into first chain, fasten the cotton off securely, and work the same in the depth of each scallop. 2nd Row : One triple treblo under the chain in the depth of scallop, three chain, ono doublo treble through the next two loops of hairpin-work toge- ther, three chain, ono treblo through two next loops together, threo chain, one treble through two next loops together, three chain, ono doublo treble through two next loops together, three chain. Repeat from the beginning of the row. 3rd Row: One treble separated by one chain into each alternate stitch of last row. 16 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL NO. 26.— CROCHET AND H0NIT0N BRAID. NO. 24.— TRIMMING : CROCHET AND "WAVED BRAID. NO. 2$, —HAIRPIN "WORK. NO. 27.— .TRIMMING : CROCHET AND HAIRPIN WORK. NO. 38.— CROCHET DESIGN 10R SHAWLS, &C. NO- 29 —INSERTION : CROCHET, ROLL PICOTS, AND MIGNARDI8E. No. ii8.-CBOCHET DESIGN FOR SHAWLS, &t. 1st Bow : Make a chain the length required, work one double into a stitch, five chain, pass over five stitches, and repeat. 2nd Bow : One double into the third of five chain of last row, five chain, one double into the third of next five chain, five double trebles into the double of last row between the loops of five chain, * one double into the third of next five chain, five chain. Repeat from * twice more ; then repeat from the beffinnine of the row. ° 3rd Bow : Like first row. 4th Row: Like second, working the five double trebles into the chain between the two clusters of five double trebles of last row to form the pattern. The shawl may be made any size; it should be finished with a ball fringe or a crochet lace about three inches deep. No. 29.— INSERTION : CROCHET BOLL FICOTS, AND MIGNABDISE. 1st Bow : One double into two picots of mignardise together, ono chain, one double into the two next picots of mignardise, one chain, four roll picots eacli separated by one chain into the two next picots together, one chain. Repeat. A roll picot is worked thus : Turn the cotton six times round the hook, insert the hook in the picot directed, draw up a loop, then draw through all the loops on the hook together. 2nd Bow : One treble separated by two chain under each of the one chain of last row over the roll picots, pass over the ono chain between the two single, and repeat from the beginning of the row. 3rd Bow: One double under every stitch of last row. The other side is worked the same way. %* SL ^Sm <&mf®^p^& wmmjK wim « the wmk-tam. GUIPURE NETTING FULL DIRECTIONS FOR <* XT I 3E» TJ tt E NETTING. #• is THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIOM ON PAGE 17, SQUARE IN GUIPURE NETTING. This square is suitable for mixing with squares of another pattern in netting, or with squares of other material, for chair-backs, counterpanes, bassinette- quilts, &c, Tho square shows a number of the most elaborate stitches used in guipure netting. As these can only be learned by a study of the various stitches contained in these Supplements, tho following hints will bo all that are needful here :— The close flat-stitch embroidery worked upon the foundation covered with point de toile must be worked before the guipure in relief. Buttonhole-stitch completes the inner part of the embroidery to make the edge appear even. GUIPURE NETTING. -»oJart. PWHWW* COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. GENERAL REMARKS ON GUIPURE NETTING. The size of the cotton must be regulated by tho holes of the netted ground, so as to blend nicely, and jo bo neither too close nor too loose. Generally the same size of thread may be taken a3 that used for the foundation; sometimes the pattern requires different parts to be worked with different cotton— some line, some coarse. A common darning or tapestry needle may bo used. Very nice needles are made fur the guipure work without points. The greatest care and accuracy are required in working sill stitches in guipure ; tho thread must be alv, carried alternately over and tinder the netted threads : the work must always be uninterrupted, and the thread fastened with a firm knot (see Nos. 4 and 5) ; and when it is impossible to pass immediately from a filled- up part to the next holo of the netted ground, tho thread must be wound round the threads between that and the next hole, to be worked as carefully as possible, so as to be almost imperceptible. Nos. 16 to 19.— POINT DE REPRISE: DARNING- STITCH. This is a stitch which is employed in nearly all patterns; in some it is used alone, in others alternated with other stitches. The principle of the stitch is that of ordinary darning. The holes must bo entirely filled up, placing the needle over ono thread of tho* netting and under the other. The darning must be always in tho same direc- tion. Any deviation in the pattern will be seen in the designs. We can give no description of these stitches which could bo half as useful to tho worker as a care- ful observation of the Diagrams Nos. 16 to 19. -. 20 to 27 axd 32.— roiNT DE TOILE: TRELLIS- WORK STITCH. In working this stitch great care must be taken to make the threads cross each other evenly. Different patterns may bo worked in this stitch. Tho number of threads in a square must be regulated by the size of the square ; but thero must be the same number of long and cross threads, and the numbers must bo even — two, four, six, &c. ; an odd number of threads would spoil the work. All the designs show where tho patterns commence and where the thread is wound round to continue tho pattern. quired for the breadth ; therefore, for the edge of square No. 31, which is three stitches broad, eight stitches will be required. Then the part marked with dotted lines a 1 to a 2 must be worked with four stitches as far as the half of the corner ; and then turn- ing round with these stitches, continue the stripe, always increasing at tho outer and decreasing at the inner edge. For the next corner at the inner edge, where until now the decreasing has been carried on. following the row marked b 1 and b 2, after the decreas- ing, make one more stitch in the outermost edge stitch, and with this begin the increasing for the second side of tho inner edge; at the outer edge decrease in the same proportion. Having arrived at the third (the opposite one to the beginning) corner, cut off the thread at the last row at tho inner edge (see cl to c2,i according to the knot d 1, the thread is then put on again at the upper corner ; and according to the dotted line the first row of the sido edge as far as d 2 is to be worked. Tho work is then continued as at the first half of the edge as far as the under corner, and on arriving there the thread is again cut off at the innei side. Put the thread on afresh at the knot marked a ; and, according to design, in tho next row enclose the two inner stitches where the cut-off thread hangs, together with one knot which forms the corner, and must now be completed as for a square by decreasing at the end of each row. This is the last corner. Nos. 23 to SO, axd 33 to 35.-P01NT D'ESPRIT : PESTOON-STITCn. Work rows forwards and backwards. In this pa t- n tho alternate over and under stitches not regularly observed, but by attention to the designs the deviations may bo seen anil tho stitch easily worked. Sometimes the whole netted ground is covered with this stitch. No. 31.— ANGUhAil EDGE FOR HANDKERCHIEF- BORDERS, &c. For an angular edge round pocket-handkerchiefs, covers, or the outer edgo of a square with a. thick middle piece of linen, &c. (^co No. 31), it is ad- visable to place the design before one. The commen- cing corner may be easily known by tho commencing thread which forms tho" upper point, of the squire. Beginning with a corner, increase until there are two more than double the number of stitches that are re- Xo. 32. Is another example of point do toile. The direc- tions for working will be found under No. 20. a\OS. 33 to 35. Further examples of point d'esprit or festoon-stitch. No. 34 shows a ground entirely covered with the stitch. For directions for working see No. 28. No. 36.- COMBINATION OF FESTOON AND TRELLIS STITCHES. This design gives tho festoon (point d'esprit and trellis-stitch) joined together in one pattern. The latter is worked like common darning (point de re- prise). No. 37.— COMBINATION OF TRELLIS - STITCH AND WHEELS. Tie trellis-stitch has already been explained; each of trellis should be worked first, and afterwards the tows of wheels, spun-stitches, or spider-webs, as they are sometimes called. These stitches will be illustrated and described in our next Supplement. OS. 33 Axn 39— COMBINATION OF POINT DE REPRISE AND FESTOON. tch of these stitches have already been illustrat and explained. A combination of the two in fine work will make a pretty lace for trimming dresses, &c They will also make a very pretty doily or antima- cassar. If space will admit of our doing so in a future Supplement, we will give a design for those patterns in a proper size. Nos. 38 and 39 are shown in a greatly increased size to facilitate copying them. We need hardly say that the letters show whereto repeat the pattern ; a must meet a, and b, b. • •mm* THE YOUNG LADIES' JOUliNAL NO. 36. KO. 37- NO. 38. t?o. 39; mm wn mm ts tie wsimaim. GUIPURE NETTING FULL DIRECTIONS FOR UIPURE NETTING ■■■ Mi 26 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATION ON PAGE 25. CRAVAT-END. This design is worked in some of the most elaborate stitches, tha directions for all of which will be found in these Supplements. The cravat-ends are finished by a pearl lace edge, which must be tacked on to the scallop of tho cravat-end, and worked over with fine buttonho e-stitch. The finished ends may be tacked up a silk, net, or muslin cravat. - ■- -■ * - JUaagWBtQW?-' MM >XSB>WiKt COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 27 GUIPURE NETTING (Continued). Nos. 40 to 46.-POINT CROISE : CROSS-STITCH. Those stitches may bo used as a whole or half pattern for separate squares, or an entire surface with either single or double threads ; the second thread is wound round tho first. No. 40 shows tho mode of working a single thread crossed with a tied knot, winch fastens all the threads at the crossing -point. This stitch resembles tho common buttonhole-stitch, with this difference only, that tho stitch is put in over instead of next to the starting-thread. The double-thread cross No. 41 requires the crossed thread to be once more tied in a separate hole of tho square. For this double cross stretch tho first loose thread for two bars of tho cross lying near each other, then return as far as the middle only. Twist the thread round the latter, from here going always forwards and backwards to form the third and fourth bars ; then unite all the four bars by one stitch, and then twist tho thread a few times round the first bar with a singlo thread and finish. After uniting the four cross-bars, it will be easy to make a little round pattern in the middle by drawing tho thread round the cross. No. 42 shows clearly tho le of working half cross-stitch in rows. No. 43 shows a simple mode of making a c stitch with a thread. Work tho first line of this cross-stitch by looping a simple thread cross-stitch round the thread of the netted foundation (as in working with a needle), then in the returning row, which completes tho cross ; the knot must be always made in the middle. Twisted crosses may be made in the same manner by first stretching the single thread across, and then twisting tho thread round in returning. This is dearly shown in No. 44, with little round patterns added at tho cross points (spinning patterns), by working round the tied knots in the twisted lines. The next variation of the cross-stitch, which also forms tho ground of the spun-stitch, and which j tho thread-cross interwoven with the point d'esprl in No. 45, may also have a loose thread circlo as in. No. 46. The interwoven cross of No. 41 may now be com- pleted by the point d'esprit, for which stick always through the winding of the cross-bars, as shown in No. 45. Nos. 46 to 49.— SPINNING-STITCH AND WHEELS. These patterns are generally worked over four holes of the netted square at the crossing-point of tho cross- bars stretched across, and either unite the eight radii or meet over these in tho centre of a netted hole with the thread wound round. This winding round is so contrived that tho wound bars lie underneath the threads of the foundation, and the stitch is on this* account called a web. No. 46 represents ono of thes* patterns with a loose thread circle ; No. 47 a web wit! a looped circlo, and it forms the middle of the patter; represented in No. 50. A wheel differs from a web in tho mode of weaving it ; in tho former the threads appear to be reversed. No. 49 represents a finished wheel surrounded with very pretty picots. Nos. 50 and 51.— PICOTS. Those picots consist of buttonhole-stitches worked close together, as shown in No. 50. The number of - THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL NO. 40. NO. 41. NO. 43. NO. 43- NO. 4$. NO. 46. NO. 47. NO. 4S. NO. 49. NO. $0. NO. 52. NO. 54. NO. 56. 1 YL^V /f///fflE? NO. $■} NO. £8. NO. 59. NO. 61. NO. 63. NO. 60. NO. 64. NO. 62. .. 'W'^ium**' COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 29 NO. 75- NO. J6, wo. 77. ^d THE YOUNG LADIES" JOURNAL buttonhole-stitches must be regulated by the quality of the cotton and the size of the picot. No. 51 shows another very effective picot, which may be worked either round the threads that cross each other in the netting for the middle of a cross (^cross-stitch), or round a little spinning-stitch or wheel ; this kind may also bo used for flowers. These twisted picots are worked in the well-known brod a la minute (see No. 51). For this kind of picot make first a buttonhole-stitch round the netted cross push the needle in it, and wind the cotton ten or twelve times round for one picot; then carefull v draw ano- ther buttonhole-stitch round the netted cross to fasten the finished picot and to prepare for the next. Nos. 52 to 55.— PYRAMID-STITCH. This stitch is made with sometimes one, two, or more divisions. No. 52 gives a design with patterns of pyramid- Stitch in three divisions, which are worked according to No. 53._ This stitch differs only so far from that in two divisions, in that from tiie middle hole when the triangle is stretched across, the thread stretched across is carried to the middle of the netted bar, and rises from there to the point. No. 54 shows the mode of working this. Tie the thread on with a knot, carry it as far as the middle of the outer netting thread of the pattern, fasten it for a triangle again to the middle hole returning. By winding the last thread backwards^tho point o f the pyramid is again reached, and tho bars must now be closely worked in point de reprise, as shown in the design. No. 55 shows a little finished pattern with one division between the bars of a web. These pyramid-stitches may bo made stronger and more effective by twisting several stretched threads together, which form a kind of frame. Nos. 56 to 58 and 61.— MUSHROOM-STITCH. This is worked in a kind of point de reprise in a corner of a netted square, a twisted thread having been previously drawn across obliquely (see No. 56) ° Nos. 56 to 58 show the usual modes of placing tli^se patterns together. No. 61 gives a little square pattern containing double point d'esprit between the diffe- rent arrangements of the mushroom-stitch. . ™ e ( J, 0U ^ 10 P nillfc d'esprit is merely a second worked inside the first. Nos. 59 and 60, 62 to 65.— POINT EVANTAIL : FAH- STITCH. This is a kind of continuation of the mushroom- stitch, and may be easily worked from Nos. 59 and 60 IS os. 62 and 65 show how they maybe arranged in patterns. The flat fan-stitch in No. 59 forms an almostexolusive pattern of itself, but tho corner fan- Stitch in No. 60 serves also as a finish to the trellis- work parts, as shown in Nos. 63 and 64. A variety of this pattern is called the twisted fan-stitch, and answers the same purpose, as shown also in a square pattern in No. 76. Nos. 66 to 70.— SCALLOPS. These are numerous in their arrangement and modes of working. In order to make two of these pointed scallops m a hole of the netting, work always two buttonhole-stitches on the thread of tho netting intended for the long side of each scallop (according to ^o 66), ono buttonhole-stitch on the thread in- tended for the short side of the scallop at the middle point of the threads turned towards the star, so that the latter seems only half filled when the side thread is_ covered with stitches. No. 66 shows one scallop with loose threads finished; the second laid on Having finished the latter, carry the thread at the foot of tho finished scallops as far as the next dis- engaged hole to work tho next two scallops, or bv means of a bar of the thread cross in the middle of the star ; continue tho work. The thick button scallops (Nos. 67 and 68) are worked in rows forwards and backwards in common bnttonhole-stitch, as shown in No. 67. For thi'^k but- tonhole scallops with picots, see No. 68. The thick pyramid scallop is like the pyramid-stitch, but according to No. 68, it lies loose upon the ground, and the frame of stretched threads is worked in point de reprise. In working these large scallops, in which the threads are closely interwoven, and which has the effect of pyramid-stitch in five divisions, it is very necessary that the five threads of the frame should be firmly stretched. They all unite in tho point— not all together round tho knots of the netted foundation, but after the looping are placed perpendicularly on the straight netted bar, and closely wound round. Tins twisted bar may be completed with a thick pat- tern, spun-stitch, a wheel, or a picot. The threads on tho foot of the frame joined to the trellis-stitch may bo easily worked from No. 69. The loose corner scallop which serves for filling up this, as well as the slanting half of a hole of the netting in the mushroom- stitch, is worked the same as No. 70, without a sun- porting middle thread, and like the loose star scallop worked with buttonhole-stitch in No. 66. For every triangle two buttonhole-stitches must bo made over each thread of tho netting. No. 71. -TUFTED BUTTONHOLE-STITCH. This stitch will be very easily worked from the design. It forms the border to tho square No. 75. N0.72.-OBLONG PATTERN. These patterns are formed by drawing the thread loosely round the netting. They are used for orna- menting larger patterns. No. 72*shows howthevare used with other stitches to *— m a pattern. COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLI 31 No. 73.— THE LETTER " S " STITCH. This is a sort of combination of the mushroom- stitch, and is used in square No. 77. No. 74.— THICK SQUARE. This simple stitcli needs no description— it will be seen in the finished square No. 77. Nos. 75 and 77.— SQUARES IN GUIPURE NETTING. These squares may be used alternately, and will make a pretty insertion, a heading for guipure lace, or joined for pincushion-tops, doilys, &c. No. 76.— QUARTER OF SQUARE. All the stitches in this design have been already described, except the stalk-stitch which crosses the point de toile. Thoy are worked according to Nos. 85 and 86. This square will make a pretty doily, or, com- bined with other squares, will serve for antimacassars, &c. No 78.— PATTERN IN FAN, OBLONG, AND SPINNING STITCHES. This shows the mode of working a combination the abovo stitches. of Nos. 79 to 31 AND 90.— STAR OR RADII. For the mode of working the star represented in No. 79, see No. 80. The star requires cross-bars placed in the same manner as for a wheel, the ends of which must again havo crossbars for the rounding of the star. Round the interwoven wheel in the middle the separate radii are arranged, which are formed, accord- ing to the previous directions, of loose threads round the bars of netting, and placed together in a bunch at the under part with two buttonhole-stitches upon the wheel. The littlo stars, arranged in a prettv pattern with cross-stitch and point d'esprit in No. 90, consist, as shown in No. 81, of loose threads stretched aci and joined by being twice firmly interwoven in the middle. No. 82.— DOUBLE CROSS. Th I pattern is very effective for the middle of a square, or even for a corner. The loose threads must be first stretched across from one side over the hole of the netting, and a bar wound round in the opposite direction, interweaving it with the first bar, as shown in design. Nos. 83 to 85 axd 88, 89.— GUIPURE IN RELIEF. These very effective patterns may be placed upon a ground of point de toile, or even upon plain netting. They present no difficulty, but require practice and the greatest accuracy. They consist of loose threads stretched over the foundation, and worked in like the point de reprise — for small patterns, over two threads, with one division; for broad patterns, leaves, &c, with two or three divisions over three or more threads. Leaves should be graduated. Stalks on leaves, or sometimes raised veins (see No. 76), are formed, accord- ing to the thickness required, of threads stretched across, wound once or several times round, and closely corded in returning. The large patterns, in filling up the stretched threads of which the frame of bars is composed, require a thread of the foundation to be worked in here and there lightly, which causes the guipur# to keep its place better. No. 83 gives a finished cross in relief upon a netted foundation, covered with point de toile. No. 84- shows the mode of working this. Nos. 85 and 89 show the mode of placing the largo and small leaves and stalks so clearly that no description is necessary. No. 88 shows a combination of tbe^e etitcl Nos. 86 akd 87.— BUTTONHOLE-STITCH EDGE The buttonhole-stitch makes a very pretty scallop border. This edge may be cither plain or ornamented with picots. It is advisable to work it in a frame. It is important that it should be carefully traced, so that when the threads of the netting are cut away the stitches remain in their places. For this stretch the thread firmly round the netted thread, and tie it always with the loop described for the cross-stitch (see No. 40). Returning it must be closely twisted again, and then fastened with button- hole-stitch, as shown in No. 86. No. 87 shows tho mode of working the picots ; they are formed by simply making another separate buttonhole-stitch, which lies free underneath, and is fastened to the next in continuincr the row. CONCLUSION. From the descriptions and illustrations of stitches which we havo given in these Supplements wo believe our readers will find no difficulty in working any of the guipure netting designs which we have already given, and shall continue to give, in our Journal. TIiq designs on pages 17 and 25 of our Guipure Netting Supplements are each somewhat difficult, and should not be attempted until the stitches have all been well practised ; but they are very beautiful designs, and show what very nice work may be produced in guipure netting. ^KtN. THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL. no. 88. NO. 80. XQ, go. WHOHlHH - ■ £®»IITE miM T© TIE W8M-TABIX KNITTING, *nnT5 •:• coLon^ED •:• suppl-eire^t.* KNITTED BORDER FOR COUNTERPANE. FULL DIRECTIONS FOR PLAIN AND FANCY KNITTING THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATION QN PAGE 33 AND COLOURED SUPPLEMENT. KNITTED BOEDER FOR COUNTERPANE. Materials Required-: Strut! s' knitting cotton No. 8, two knitting pins No. 14 (Walker's bell gauge). Knit the long way. Each pattern requires twenty- stitches. You must cast on 3, 6, or 9 patterns. 1st Row : Purl three, knit three, knit two together, mak j one and knit one eight times, knit two together at the back, knit three. Repeat. 2nd Row : Purl two, purl two together at the back, purl sixteen, purl two together 1 , purl two, knit three. Repeat. 3rd Row : Purl three, knit one, knit two together, knit sixteen, knit two together at the back, knit one. Repeat. 4th Row : Purl two together at the back, purl six- teen, purl two together, knit three. Repeat. Repeat each of these four rows fire times more. Knit the two next rows, purl the 27 th and knit the 23th. For the 1st Row of the raised pattern, make one, knit one, make one, purl eight. Repeat from the beginning of the row. 2nd Row : Knit eight, purl three, knit eight. Repeat. 3rd Row : Knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knit one, purl eight. Repeat. 4-th Row: Knit eight, purl five. Repeat. 5th Row : Knit two, make one, knit one, make one, knit two, purl eight. Repeat. 6th Row: Knit eight, purl seven. Repeat. 7th Row : Knit three, make one, knit one, make one, krlt three, purl eight. Repeat. 8th Row : Knit eight, purl nine. Repeat. 9th Row: Knit two together at the back, knit live, knit two together, purl eight. Repeat. 10th Row : Knit eight, purl seven. Repeat. 11th Row : Knit two together at the back, knit three, knit two together, purl eight. Repeat. 12th Row : Knit oight, purl five. Repeat. 13 th Row : Knit two together at the back, knit one, knit two together, purl eight. Repeat. 14th Row: Knit eight, purl throe. Repeat. 15th Row : Slip one, knit two together, pass the dipped stitch over them, purl eight. Repeat. 16th Row : Knit. 17th and 18th Rows: Purl. 19th Row : Make one, knit two together at the back. Repeat throughout the row. 20th Row: Purl. 21st Row : Knit one, * make one, knit two together at the back. Repeat from *, end tho row with knit one. 22nd Row : Purl. 23rd Row: Like nini teenth row. 24th Row: Purl. 25th and 26th Rows : Knit. 27th Row: Purl. 28th Row : Knit, then cast off the stitches. For the crochet edge : — 1st Row : Work one double into every stitch of border. 2nd Row : One double into a stitch in the depth of Hop, * four chain, one treble into the first, pass over two stitches, one double into the next. Repeat from * eight times more, then repeat from the beginning of row, COLOURED SUPPLEMENT. DESIGN FOR KNITTED PENCE-JUG. Materials Required: Three skeins each of three shades of Berlin wool, four pins No. 17 (Walker's bell gauge). in with the darkest shade, cast on three stitches on each of three pins, knit one round. 2nd and all following Rounds : Knit one stitch in the front of a loop, and one in tho back, of the first and last stitches on each pin, until you have twenty-one stitches on each pin. Knit two rounds without increase or decrease. Purl three rounds, knit three rounds. With the second shade purl three rounds and knit three rounds. With the lightest shade, purl three rounds and knit three rounds. With the second shade purl three rounds. With the lightest shade knit two rounds, and purl two rounds. For the raised pattern work with the lightest shade of wool for the ground, and the darkest for the leaves. The light wool being carried at the back of the leaves, care must be taken not to draw it at all tight in crossing the leaves at the back, or the effect of tho pattern will be very much spoilt. For tho 1st Row of raised pattern, make one, knit one, make one, purl eight. Repeat. 2nd Round : TJnit eight, purl three. Repeat. 3rd Round: Knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knit one, purl eight. Repeat. 4th Round : Knit five, purl eight. Repi 5th Round: Knit two, make one, knit one, make one, knit two, purl eight. Repeat. 6th Round : Knit seven, purl eight. Repeat. 7th Round: Knit three, make one, knit one, make one, knit three, purl eight. Repeat. 8th Round : Knit nine, purl eight. Repeat. 9th Round : Knit two together at the back, knit five, knit two together, purl eight. Repeat. 10th Round : Knit seven, purl eight. 11th Round: Knit two together at the back, knit three, knit two together, purl eight . Repeal . 12th Round: Knit live, purl eight. Repeat. * 13th Round: Knit two together at the back, knit one, knit two together, purl eight. Rep» l4th Round : Knit three, purl eight. 15th Round: Slip one, knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over the two knitted together, purl eitdit. Repeat. 16th to 18th Rounds: Purl. After finishing the pattern, work two plain and three purl rounds with the second shade of wool ; then take the darkest shade and work six ribbed rounds of knit two and purl two alternately, nine rounds are ribbed with tho second shade and six with the lightest. For the lip : Knit seven rounds, increasing one stitch in each round. Above one point of the triangle, purl one round, then cast off all tho stitches except five exactly opposite the increased stitches; these are knitted plain for the handle, which is two inches in length; to shape the end, decrease by knitting two r at th ow, until one stitch only is left; this end n to the >on rib of the second shade above the raised pa : COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. oc KNITTING. PENCE JUG KNITTING. L\TTTING-PINS. r needles as they are sometimes steel for finer kinds of work, and and vulcanite, when coarser mate- ITTING-SHIELDS. lay be purchased in bone and ivory ; ;sary when steel pins are used, as issibility of the work escaping from are made both in plain and fancy together by a piece of fine clastic. ERIALS KNITTED, use knitting-cotton, as its smooth its slipping more freely from the i do. Strutts' knitting cotton can nmended for its smoothness, soft- ire. Strutts' summer merino, botli urs, will make excellently strong stockings for children and gentle- igs, Messrs. Strutt manufacture a jJled best knitting. For knitting assars, &c, their crochet cotton is s and stockings, Messrs. Faudel, nanufacture the finest quality of eir peacock fingering, fleecy, S'het- :1 eider yarn. They also make a )f knitting silk, called ice silk. ply a very strong and good quality eel imperial knitting silk. These ipplied by Messrs. Bedford, 186, 13, Goodge Street, W. AL DIRECTIONS. I M P L E MENT S. No. 1.— THE GAUGE. First of all comes the gauge with which to measure accurately the knitting-pins. We give an illustra- tion of the gauge, which is of white metal, and advise ladies who knit to procure, one. Walker's 6 auge is the ono wc illustrate, and with which wc measure. To knit well, the pins must be held lightly in tho hands rather close to the points, and there should be very little movement of the hands for knitting easily and rapidly. In winding wool, merino, cotton, or silk, care should be t; t to wind too tightly, as ftio material is impo 1 thereby. It should be borne in mind thai e of the work is ruled more by tho qualit" of the ial than by tho size of the pins, ■Mtt ■aS3»BWS COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. KNITTING. -o-o^c INTRODUCTION. Kvittin'o is a very useful and amusing employment both for ladies and children, and should bo taught generally, for the reason that the plainer sorts of knitting bo taken up at any time. Knitting- is work alike suited to young and old. The invalid and the blind person find in it occupation with which to while away many hours that would otherwise pass wearily. In the gloaming work requiring strong light must bo put aside, and a piece of knitting at hand — such as a sock, stocking, or mitten — can bo taken up and worked at until it is thought time to draw the curtains and light up. Knitting in Italy and Spain was general long before its introduction into England. One of the wives of Henry VIII. had a present of a pair of knitted stockings. In the early part of Queon Elizabeth's reign knitted stockings must, however, have been rare, as the Queen is said to have had a pair of woven stockings presented to her, when she dec] she would not again wear stockings made of cloth. Stocking-knitting must, towards the end of her reign, have become a work of somo importance, as the stock- ing-knitters of Nottingham drove away from their town Le i, who invented a machine for weaving .stockings. Lee retired to Paris, where disappointment and grief caused his death. The Scotch and German women and children surpass the English in the quantity, and generally in tho quality, of their knitting. The Ger- mans are acknowledged to be the best knitters on the Continent, and they take their knitting with them to the theatre. It is so much a habit with them to knit, that it in no way di i their thoughts from what is going on around them. The word " knit" is from the Anglo-Saxon cnytan, or cnyttan. Tho Icelanders and Swedes call it kni/ta, and the Danes knytte. IMPLE 31 E N T S. No. 1.— THE GAUGE. First of all comes the gauge with which to measure accurately tho knitting-pins. We give an illustra- tion of tho gauge, which is of white metal, and advise ladies who knit to procure one. Walker's 6 *uge is the one wo illustrate, and with which wc measu KNITTING-PINS. Knitting-pins, or needles as they are sornetiir.es called, are made of steel for finer kinds of work, and wood, ivory, bone, and vulcanite, when coarser mate- rials are knitted. KNITTING-SHIELDS. Knitting-shields may be purchased in bono and ivoiy ; they are very necessary when steel pins are used, as they prevent the possibility of the work escaping from the pins. Shields are made both in plain and fancy forms, and are held together by a piece of fine elastic. MATERIALS KNITTED. Beginners should use knitting-cotton, as its smooth surface admits of its slipping more freely from the pins than wool can do. Strutts' knitting cotton can bo thoroughly recommended for its smoothness, soft- ness, and even texture. Strutts' summer merino, both in white and colours, will make excellently strong summer socks and stockings for children and gentle- men. For ladies' stockings, Messrs. Strutt manufacture a very fine cotton called best knitting. For knitting trimmings, antimacassars, &c, their crochet cotton is very good. For woollen socks and stockings, Messrs. Faudel. Phillips, and Sons manufacture the finest quality of knitting wools in their peacock fingering, fleecy, Shet- land, Andalusia, and eider yarn. They also make a very fine quality of knitting silk, called ice silk. is. Pearsall supply a very strong and good quality of knitting silk, called imperial knitting silk. Theso materials are all supplied bv Messrs. Bedford, 186, Regent Street, and 23, Goodgo Street, W. GENERAL DIRECTIONS. . To knit well, the pins must be held lightly in tho hands rather close to the points, and there should be very little movement of the hands for knitting easily and rapidly. In winding wool, merino, cotton, or silk, care should bet it to wind too tightly, as ftio material is impo d thereby. It should be borne in mind thai e of the work is ruled more by the qualit" of the by tho size of the pins, 36 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL «0. I.— WALKER'S BE'.L gauge. NO. 3.— FIRST LOOP TOR CAST- ING ON WITH TWO PLXS. 4.— CASTING ON WITH TWO I INS To learn knitting, coarse cotton— say Strutts' No. 8, and pins No. 12 or 14— should be selected. No. 2.— CAST ON WITH ONE TIN. Twist the cotton once round the forefinger of the left hand (see diagram), hold one end of wool between the thumb and second finger of the left hand. Hold the pin lightly, much the same way as you would hold a pen, in the right hand, keep the other part of the wool over the forefinger of the right hand, under the second and third fingers, and over the little finger, pass the pin under the wool on the left forefinger from left to right. With a slight movement of the right- hand forefinger pass the wool in the right hand round the pin, draw the pin with the wool round it to the left so as to bring it under the loop on the finger in which it was inserted, slip the thread off the left forefinger, and tighten it to form the stitch. Eepeat from the beginning. It is undesirable to cast on with one pin if you have many stitches in length, as you are apt not to have enough of the short end of the wool, unless you are 1 good judge of the length needed. Nos. 3 and 4.— TO CAST ON WITH TWO PINS. Pass a loop over the left-hand pin near the end of the cotton, hold the right-hand pin as already de- scribed for casting on with one pin ; put the right- hand pin into the loop, passing the pin through from left to right, keeping the right-hand pin under the left pin ; * pass the wool over this pin, between it and the left-hand pin, pull the loop up towards the right ; now draw the right-hand pin up, and pass the stitch on it on to the left-hand pin, by putting the left pin through the left side of the loop, keeping the right-hand pin in the loop ready to begin the next stitch. Eepeat from * for the required number of stitches. j B - a|a _ B gjj-O-j-y ati ■■■I COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. No. 5.— KNIT- TING. Aftel having cast on the num- ber of stitches needed, hold the pin with tho cast-on stitches in the left hand, * pass the right- hand pin into the first stitch from left to right, put . the cotton round between the two pins, pull tho loop thus made through the loop on the loft pin, and slip that loop off the loft pin. Repeat from *. No. 6. — PURL- ING OR RIB- BING. Keep the cot- ton in tho front of the work, * put the right- hand pin into a stitch from right to left, passing it upwards through tho front loop of a stitch, the right- hand pin resting on the left ; pass the cotton round the front of the pin, bring it back between the two pins, pull tho right- hand pin slight- ly back, so a Recure the loop on t ho right - hand pin, and drawoff the loop on the left pin. Repeal from *. No. 7. --TO KNIT IN THE ROUND Four and even five pins are sometimes used for knitting in the round. Cast on a third or fourth of the number of stitches required on each of the three or four pins ; then, with the fourth or fifth pin, join round by knit- ting into the first stitch that was cast on, and continue round. TO SLIP A STITCH. To slip a stitch, pass it from one pin to She other without - knit- ting it at the be- ginning of a row; in knitting with two pins, the first stitch of a row should al- ways be slipped to make tho work eve?f ; un- less otherwise directed, put the pin into tho si itch you aro about to slip from left to right. TO MAKE A STITCH OK COTTON FOR- WARD. In knitting, pass the cotton from tho back to the front of tho work, and knit, the next stitch as usual. In purling, pasr, t lie cotton complete- ly round the pin. NO. *].— EMITTING- *N THE ROCSD. TO MAKE TWO STITCHES. Pass the wool to tho front, then round the pin. If throe stitches are to be made, tho cotton must again be passed round. Itrknit- ting off two or more made stitches, the first you can knit in the usual way; the second you must put the pin into the back loop, then knit off as usual. H S3 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL TO KNIT TWO STITCHES IN ONE. First knit the front loop, and without removing the left-hand stitch from the pin, knit the back loop, then slip the stitch off the left-hand pin. TO RAISE A STITCH. Pick up and knit a stitch in the thread that lies crosswise between two stitches. TO KNIT AT THE BACK. Put the pin through the back loop on the left-hand needle, and knit as usual. TO KNIT TWO TOGETHER. P - ; t the loft-hand pin through two stitches toge- ther, and kaL> as one stitch. TO KNIT TWJ TOGETHER AND PASS A SLIP- STITCH OVER. g a stitch from the left to the right hand pin V ithout knitting it, knit two stitches together as already described, then, with the left-hand pin, draw the slip-stitch off the right hand over the last stitch knitted, which is still 0:1 the right-hand pin. TO CAST OFF. Knit two stitches, pass the first stitch over the second, knit a third stitch, and pass the second over it. Continue in this way until all the stitches are worked off. DOUBLE KNITTING. In casting or. : for this pattern allow three stitches to knit plain at each end. 1st Row : Knit three, * bring the wool forward, slip a stitch as if for purling, pass the wool back, knit one, putting the wool twice over the pin. Repeat from * until Within three stitches of the end of row, knit these three. In the next Row the stitch that was knitted is Slipped, and the slipped stitch knitted. No. 8.— CANE-WORK PATTERN. > ast on any number of stitches divisible by four. 1st Row : Make one, knit one, make one, knit three. Repeat. 2nd Row : Purl. 3rd Row : Knit three, make one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over the two knitted to- gether, make one. Repeat. 4th Row : Purl. 5th Row. Make one, slip one, knit two together, 'Tkss the slip-stitch over, make one, knit three. Repeat. 8th Row : Purl. 7th $ow : Like third row. 3tb ftcw: Purl. 9th Row : Make one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over, make one, knit three. Repeat. 10th Row : Purl. Repeat from the third row. No. 9.— VANDYKE PATTERN. Cast on nine stitches for each pattern. 1st Row : Knit three, * make one, knit two together at the back, knit four. Repeat from *. 2nd Row: Purl. 3rd Row : Knit one, knit two together, make one, knit one, make one, knit two together at the back. Repeat. 4th Row : Purl. 5th Row : Knit two together, * make one, knit three, make one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip- stitch over. Repeat from *. 6th Row : Purl. Repeat from first row. No. 10.— HERRINGBONE STRIPE. Cast on. any number of stitches divisible by three. 1st Row : Knit one, knit two together, make one. Repeat. End the row with knit two. 2nd Row : Purl one, purl two together, make one. Repeat. End the row with purl two. These two rows are repeated throughout. No. 11.— STRIPE WITH TWISTED BARS. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by six. 1st Row : Knit one, cotton forward, knit one, knit three together, knit one, make one. Repeat from the beginning of the row. For the 2nd and every alternate row the single stitch between the two made stitches is purled ; the rest of the row is knitted. These two rows are re- peated for the required length. No. 12.— PATENT KNITTING, OR BRIOCHE KNITTING. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by three. Cotton forward, slip one, knit two together. Every row is worked the same. The cO.ge shown in illustration No. 12 is in crochet, and merely con f one row of doublo and tho second row, which is three chain, one double into the first. Repeat. No. 13.-CABLE PATTERN. Cast on eighteen stitches for a stripe, thus for six in stitches on each side of the cable, for two pat- terns thirty stitches will be required, and so on. 1st Row: Purl six, knit six. and purl six. 2nd Row: Knit six, purl six, knit six. 3rd Row : Like first row. 4th Row : Like second row. 5th Row : Like third row. 6th Row : Knit six, take a third pin and purl three ; with the first right-hand pin purl the next three stitches, and knit six. 7th Row: Purl six, knit the three stitches on the third or additional pin, knit tho three stitches on the left-hand pin, purl six. 8th Row: Like second row. Repeat from first row. -'.. ^'^^*~jf%ZF? K ^J£&i£'ii* :: ! *"*i M ■■■■1 No. 14.— KNITTED MITTEN. The border which is worked round the top, and the finished mitten, are shown on page 40. This mitten is suitable* for a hand that will take a 7 or 7| ladies' glove. It is to wear over the glove. If a small sizo is required, Andalusian wool and p^ns No. 15 may be used in place of the Berlin wool. Double Berlin wool and pins No. 14 will work out a large size for a gentleman's mitten. The directions are very simple, and the mitten is a particularly easy one to knit. Materials Required: I§ oz Berlin wool; two pins No. 14 and four pins No. 15 (Walker's gauge). For the left-hand mitton : Cast on fifty-five stitches with tho No. 14 pins, forty of which form the hand, and fifteen the ribbed wrist. Always slip the first stitch of each row. 1st Row : Knit. 2nd Row : Knit forty, purl fifteen. 3rd Row : Knit, 4th Row : Knit, forty, purl fifteen. 5th Row : Purl fifteen, knit forty. 6th Row: Knit, Repoat from the first row till you have 101 rows. Then begin the thumb : 102nd Bow : Cast off from tho top of the hand four- teen stitches, knit twenty-five, leavo the ribbed wrist stitches on tho pin until'tho mitton is finished. 103rd Row : Knit twenty-six, cast on the same pin ten stitches. 104th Row : Knit twenty-five, make one, knit two together at the back, turn. 105th Row : Knit one, knit the made stitch at the back, knit the remaining stitches of tho row plain. 106th Row : Knit twenty-four, make one, knit two together at the back, leave the other stitch on the J« f t pin, turn. The 105th and 106th Rows are now repeated alter- nately, with this difference, you knit one stitch less in each row until you have ten stitches to knit before the make ono knit two together at the back, and leave one on the left-hand pin. 136th Row : Knit thirty-six. 137th Row : Knit thirty-six. Cast off, sew up the thumb as far as the opening, then sew tho sides of mitten together. With three pins (No. 15) pick up the between stitches round tho top of hand of mitten, and purl for six rounds, cast off. Any small embroidery pattern may bo worked in these rounds, and up the back of mitten if preferred. For the right-hand mitten : Cast on fifty-one stitches, knit two plain rows. 3rd Row : Knit ten. 4th Row : Turn and knit the ten stitches. 5th Row : Knit nine,- make one, knit two together at the back, taking tho second stitch of the two toge- ther from the left-hand pin. 6th Row: Knit one, knit tho made stitch at the back, knit the rest. The 5th and 6th rows are repeated all knitting ono stitch more in each alternate rov; pre- vious to the make one, until you have increased to twenty-five stitches in the 35th row, when you make one, knit two together at the back, and knit nine from the left-hand pin. 38th Row : Knit 1 tin. 37th Row : Cast off ten stitches, knit twenty-Six. 38th Row : Knit back tho twenty-six stitches, cast on fourteen stitches. 39th Row : Knit, 40th Row : Repeat from the first row of the left- hand mitten until you have 101 rows at tho wrist. Finish the right-hand mitten as described for tho left. No. 15.— TRIANGULAR KILTED PATTERN. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by nine, 1st Row : Purl eight, knit one. Repeat. 2nd Row : Purl two, knit seven. Repeat, 3rd Row : Purl six, knit three. Repeat, 4th Row : Purl four, knit five. Repeat, 5th Row : Purl four, knit five. Repeat. 6th Row : Purl six, knit three. Repeat. 7th Row : Purl two, knit seven. Repeat, 8th and 9th Rows : Like first row. Repeat from second row. For tho crochet edge: Work one double into the first stitch— that is knitted throughout— pass- over three stitches, three trebles, three double trebles, and three trebles into the next stitch, pass oyer three stitches, and repeat. No. 16.— RIBBED KNITTING WITH TWO PINS. In knitting with two pins to produco a rib, 3 must knit two and purl two alternately. In tho alter- nate rows veu must reverse the work by purhng knitted and knitting the purled stitches. Sometimes ribbed knitting is worked alternately, one stitch knit and one purl. For wide ribs three knit and three purl are sometimes worked. No. 16 shows a rib of ono knit and one purl, alternated after every sixth row • the rib is reversed by repeating tho sixth row. No. 17 —INFANT'S VEST. Materials Rfquibhd j 2 oz Lady Betty or white Berlin wool, three bone pins No. 10 (Walker's bell gau Cast on one pin 100 stitches, knit threo ribs. T' knit two rows, purl two rows, knit, two rows. Then knit forty stitches, and with the tl ' continue to work on theso forty st itches until you have twenty- two rows— that is, eleven ribs. Leave theso stitches on the pin. With the third pin cast off twenty stitches for the shoulder (by passing one stitch over tho other) of tho sixty stitches left on tho first pin. Knit on the remaining forty stitcher) twenty-two rows for the back the same as for the fro it. In the 23rd Row, cast on twenty stitches for the other shoulder, and knit them on ono needle with the forty stitches left from tho front. You will now have 100 'stitches again, on which knit six rows as at the boginni; Cast off the stitches, and sew up the sides under the arm, leaving the armhole open. A crochet edging is worked round the neck and ves. 1st Row : One singlo into the edge of knitting, two chain, pass over ono stitch of knitting, one singlo into the next. 2nd Row : One double under two chain of lasl threo chain, ono double under next two chain. B**' peat. A tape or ribbon is run through the first row oi crochet round the throat. RSWO! THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL. HO. 14— EDGE OJT ailTTEN. NO. 15— TRIANGIT1.AR KILTED NO. T&.— -RIBBED EOKDEU. ^fi*** mmum $mm » tie w§m-tabul KNITTING. NO 18/ KNICKERBOCKER STOCKINGS. NO. lS6 NO. 19. — : EtTWiarwiwrcs- ■am 42 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIONS ON PAGE 41. No. I8tf -KNICKERBOCKER STOCKING FOR BOY F! DM TEN TO TWELVE YEARS OF AGE. Materials Required : 4 oz fine gray and 2 oz £119 black peacock fingering, four pins No. 15, and two No. 16 (Walker's gauge). _ Cast on ninety-six stitches with black wool on three pins, No. 15. Knit two, purl one alternately for three inches, which will bo about thirty-four rounds. With gray wool continue as before until you have worked the sixteenth stitch of the third pin, pick up one stitch for the seam— that is the loop lying between the sixteenth and seventeenth stitches, purl this stitch in every succeeding round. To mark it, draw a piece of bright-coloured silk or cotton through it. Work off as before to the end of the rounds. Work eleven more rounds of gray. With black wool, work one round. 2nd Round : Increase one stitch on each side of the seam-stitch by picking it up as described for the seam- stitch, and working it to continue the rib. Work live rounds without increase In the 8th Round increase as described for the second round. 9th to 12th Rounds without increase. With gray wool, work twelve rounds without in- crease or decrease. . With black wool, work one round. * /n the 2nd Round work two together before and after the seam, then work four rounds without de- crease. In the 7th Round decrease as described. 8th to 12th Rounds without decrease. Work three stripes of twelve rounds each, alter- nately gray and black, decreasing as described for the last stripe. Work five stripes without increase or de- crease. Work five rounds gray, then commence the heel. Divide the stitches thus :— Place twenty -one- each side of the seam, that is, forty-three on the heel pin, leaving forty-two for the instep. Take a second ball of gray wool, so as to knit tho heel with double wool and No. 16 pins. Continue tho rib working on the heel stitches only for twenty-eight rows. 29th Row : Knit two past the scam, knit two to- gether, knit one, turn, purl nine, purl two together, purl one, turn, knit eleven, knit two together, knit 1 continue those last two rows, taking in two stitches more at each turn till all the side stitches are taken in. At each side of the heel pick up neatly, with a crochet-nook, thirty stitches ; work with pin No. 15. Then take in the forty-two stitches left before com- mencing the heel, but let them remain on a separate pm, as they must continue to be ribbed. Decrease in every round until forty stitches are left at the sole. lo decrease, knit two together at the right side and slip one, knit one, pass the slip-stitoh over at the loft side of the sole. To know left from right, imagine sock on right foot. ° When the foot measures about six inches, commence the decrease for the toe thus : decrease ons stitch at each side of back and each side of front stitches, always making the decrease tho second stitch from the side. Work the next round plain. Tho two last rounds are to be worked alternately until you have twenty-eight stitches, when cast off, and sew up on tho wrong side. No. ^^KNICKERBOCKER STOCKING. Materials Required: 6 oz fine fingering, four pins No. 15, and two pins No. 16 (Walker's gauge). The shaping and all directions for No. 18a will servo for this stocking. For the top knit one, purl two for throe inches. For tho leg and top of foot work two rounds knit, and two purl, throughout tho stocking. For tho heel, working with two pins, No. 16, and double wool, one row knit, one row purl. The sole and gusset are knitted throughout. No. 19.— K IP. Materials Required : 3 oz Berlin wool or four-thread fleecy, four steel pins No. 13 (Walker's gauge). Cast on eighty-eight stitches— that is, twenty-nine on each of two pins, and thirty on tho third, knit two and purl two alternately all round for fifty-two rounds. In the 53rd Round knit twelve, cast off twent v-ci knit twenty, cast off another twenty-eight. The twenty stitches form the part at the back of tho knee, and are left on a separate pin. On the twelve stitches knit plain, pick up one of the cast-off stitches from the twenty-eight at the end of each row to increase the sizo of the gusset. Continue working thus till you have sixty-eight stitches on the pin. Now commence the decrease by knitting tho last two stitches gether until only twelve remain. Tick up the si stitches of tho second half of gussot and knit rou with the twenty left on tho separate pin, then continue the rib for fifty- two rounds and cast off. For the band cast on ten stitches, work for 112 rows. To make tho point, decrease one stitch by knitting two together at the end of each row until one stitch remains. For tho wider band cast on twenty-two stitches and knit 112 rows. Buttonholes are worked in this band fls follows: Knit to the centre of the twenty-two stitches, take a third pin, work live rows on tho eleven stitches, work tho same number of rows on the other eleven stitches, then knit on all tho stitches, work eight plain rows between each of the buttonholes, which are worked over with wool in the ordinary way The bands are sown to tho back of the knee-cap by a needle and wool. The narrow band is sown three ribs in front of the wide band, and is passed through the middle of it. For tho crochet edge work one double into a stitch at the edge of knitting, four chain, pass over two stitches, and repeat. COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. KNITTING- (ContimzecL). --, :-V No. 20.— EDGINCr. Materials Required : Two pins No. 17 (Walker's gauge), Strutts' crochet cotton Xo. 10. Cast on eleven stitch 1st Row : Knit nine, turn the cotton twice over the pin, knit two. 2nd Row : Knit two, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit nine. 3rd Ro\" : Knit nine, slip one knit one pass the slipped stitch over, knit two. 4th Row: Knit two, cotton twico over the pin, knit ten. 5th Row : Knit six, slip ono knit one pa slipped stitch over, knit two, knit ono, and purl one in the made stitch, knit two. 6th Row: Knit two, slip ono knit one pass the slipped stitch over, knit three, cotton twice over the pin, knit six. 7th Row : Knit six, knit ono and purl- one in the made stitch, knit four, cotton twice over the pin, knit two. 8th Row : Knit two, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit four, slip ono knit ono pass the slipped stitch over, knit six. 9th Row: Knit four, slip ono knit ono pass the slipped stitch over, knit one, slip ono knit one pass the slipped stitch over, knit two, slip one knit one pass the slipped stitch over, knit two. 10th Row : Knit two, cotton twico over the pin, knit three, cotton twice over the pin, knit three, cotton twice over the pin, knit four. 11th Row : Knit four, knit one and purl ono in the made stitch, knit three, knit one and purl one in tho made stitch, knit three, knit one and purl ono in the made stitch, knit two. 12th Row : Knit two, slip one knit ono ] slipped stitch over, knit three, slip one knit ono J the slipped stitch over, knit t! ip one knit ono pass tho slipped stitch over, knit four. 13th Row: Knit six. slip ono knit ono pass tho slipped stftCh over, knit throe, knit two together, ton twice over the pin, knit two. 14th Row : Knit two, knit ono and purl ono in tho made stitch, knit two togi titer, knit t' twi :e over the pin, kni 15th Row; Knit six, end purl one ii made stitch, knit two, knit two togethi • ono knit one pass the sli] itch over, knit two. 13th Row: Knit two, cotton twice over the knit four, slip one knit one pass the sli over, knit six. 17th Row : Knit nine, knit two together, knit ono and purl one in the made stitch, knit two. 18th Row : Knit two, slip ono knit one pass the slipped stitch over, knit ten. 19th Row: Knit nine, knit two together, c twieo over the pin, knit two. 20th Row : Knit two, knit one and purl one in made stitch, knit two together, knit eight. 21st Row: Knit nine, slip ono knit ono pass the slipped stitch over, knit two. 22nd Row: Knit two, slip one, knit one, pass tho slipped stitch over, knit eight. Repeat from first row. two together, knit nine, knit two together, cotton twice over the pin, knit two. 2nd Row : Knit one, knit two together, purl one,- knit ten, knit two together, purl one, knit two. Repeat the first and second rows alternately three times more. 9th Row : Knit two, cotton twice over the pin, knit >ther, knit four, slip one knit one pass the slip stitch over, knit three, knit two together, cotton twico over tho pin, knit two. 10th Row : Knit one, knit two together, purl one, knit five, cotton twice over the pin, knit four, knit two together, purl one, knit two. 11th Row: Knit two, cotton twice over the pin, knit two together, knit four, knit one and pur! ono in 'tho mado stitch, knit four, knit two together, cotton twice over the pin, knit two. 12th Row : Knit one, knit two together, purl one, knit three, * slip one, knit one, pass the slip stitch over. Repeat from * twice more, knit two, knit two together, purl one, knit two. 13th Row : Knit two, cotton twico over tho pin, knit two together, knit two, cotton twice over the pin, knit three, cotton twice over tho pin, knit two, knit two together, cotton twico over the pin, knit two. 14-th Row: Knit one, knit two together, purl one, * knit three, kn.it one, and purl ono in tho made stitch, eat from * once more, knit two together, purl one, knit two. • 15th Row : Knit two, cotton twico over tho pin, knit two t< knit two, slip ono knit one pass slip stitch over, slip ono knit one pass the slip stitch over, km lip ono knit ono pass the slip stitch over, knit two, knit two together. 16 ■ : Knit one, knit two together, purl one, kni; otton twice over the pin, knit four, knit ier, purl one, knit two. 17th Row : Knit two, cotton twico over the pin, knit. •■, knit four, knit ono and purl one in the mr, knit two together, cotton twico over the pin, ki 13th Row: Kn . knit two together, purl one, knit five, slip one knit one pass tho slip stitch over, it four, knit two together, purl ono, knit two. from first row. Xo,2l.-TXSERTION. on fifteen si Lit Row: Knit two. cotton twice over tho pin, knit Nos. 22, 23, and 31.— COUNTERPANE. Strutts' knitting cotton, No. 13 three-thread super, and two pins Xo 19 (Walker's )• hero mention that Walker's knitting pins very nice to knit with, as they are particularly with long tapering points, and will be el much better for this pattern than pins at all blunt at the poi Tho finished counterpane is shown in Xo. 22, and is trimmed with fringe made of fork-work with lengths of cotton tied in and knotted. The hexagons and their six ! ■ parts are sewn together with a needle and The star in the centre of each hexagon is titches. It is not possible to state the quantity of cotton, as this must be ruled by the of the counterpane. Cast on thirty-seven stitches,. 1st Row: Purl. 2nd Row: Knit. ^*£? THE YOUXG LADIES' JOURNAL NO, 20, NO. S-l- —child's sock •O. 23-— HEXAGON FOR COUNTERPANE. NO. 2^.— DETAIL OF NO. 26 28. — DFTATL 01 NO. 25. NO. 29. —INFANT'S BODICE •---.' COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE NO. 33.— TOIJACCO-BAa NO. 35.— SQUARE FOR COUNTEBPAHE. KO. 3'\ -DIAMOND AVITn OPES TRELLIS. KO. 37. —DIAMOND PATTERN. / THE YOUNG SADIES' JOURNAL 3rd Row : Knit two, * make one; lilt two together, repeat from * seven times more, make one, knit three together, * make one, knit two together, repeat from * six times more, make one, knit two. -4th Row: Knit. 5th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two togethi * knit two, purl two, repeat from * twice more, knit \ knit two, purl three, knit six 25th Row : Knit two, make one, knit two toget: knit two, purl two, knit one, purl two, knit six." 26th Row : Knit two, make one, knit two together, purl two, knit one, knit three together, knit one, purl two, knit four. Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, two, purl one, * knit two, purl two, repeat from last * twice more, knit six. 8th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two i * purl |wo, knit two', repeat from * twice more, j one, knit three together, * purl one, knit two, purl two. repeat from last * twice more, knit four. tli Row : Knit two, make one, knit two 1- it two, purl two, repeat from * twice more, bi it r knit so 28th Row : Knit two, make one, knit two tos-eth pur] two, knit three together, purl two, knit four. 28th Row : Knit two, make one, knit two togethe knit two, purl one, knit six. SQilvKow: Knit two, make one, knit two together, purl one, purl t: pettier, purl one, knit four. Row: Knit two, make one, knit two togcth ' three, * purl two, knit, two. repeat from last * twice e, knit four. h Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together", * purl two, knit two, repeat from * twice more, purl e together, * knit two, purl two, repeat from last's '.vice more, knit four. ►9th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together. ! * knit two, purl two, repeat from * twice more, knit ' one, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit six. 10th Row : Ku'it two, make one, knit two together. purl two, knit two, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit' one, knit three together, knit one, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit four. 11th Row : Knit two, make one, knit two together, knit two, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit two, purl three, knit two, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit six. 12th Row : Knit two, make one, knit two together, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit three together, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit two, purl two. knit four. 13th Row : Knit two, make one, knit two together, knit two, purl two,, knit two, purl two,- knit two, purl . one, knit two, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit si Row : Knit two, make one, knit two together, t two, purl two, kitit two, diu'I one, purl three together, purl one, knit two, purl two- knit two, purl two, knit four. 15th Row : Knit two, make one, knit two together, knit two, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit three, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit six. 16th Row : Knit two, make one, knit two toget purl two, knit two, purl two, knit two, purl I her, knit two, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit four. "* 17th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two togel knit two, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit one, purl v.uk knit two, purl two, kbit six. 13th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit one, knit three to- getHbr, knit oue, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit four. 19th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, knit two, purl two, knit two, purl three, knit two i two, knit six. 20th Row : Knit two, make one, knit two together. purl two, knit two, purl two, knit three together, piul two, knit two, purl two, knit four. 21st Row: Knit two, make one, knit two toget] knit two, purl two, knit two, purl one, knit two, purl two, knit six. 22nd Row : Knit two, make one, knit two together, purl two, knit two, purl one, purl three together, purl one, knit two, purl two, knit four. 23rd Row : Knit two, make one, knit j two, purl two, knit three, purl two. knit six. >w: Knit two, make one, knit two I '>it two, purl three together, knit two, purl two, m\ 32hd Row : Knit tw b one, knit two to- purlthr ■. knit four. 33rd Row : Knit two, make one, knit tw knit five. 34th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, knit one, knit two together, knit two. 35th Row : Knit two, make one, knit three together. knit three. 36th Row knit two. "■ 37th Row knit one. 38th Row 39th Row Knit two, make one* knit three together,. Knit two, ma*ko one, knit three together. Knit one, knit three together, knit one. Knit three together, draw the cotton through the loop on the pin No. 24.— CHILD'S SOv Materials Required: One hall silk or 1 oz Strutts' knitting cotton No. 16, three-thread super, four pins No. 20 (Walker's gauge). Cast on sixty-eight stitches, twenty-two on each of two pins and twenty-four on the third pin, knit two, and purl two for two and a quarter inches, keep the pin with twenty-four stitches for the hack of the ., knit twelve stitches from this pin, pick up and «..„,«»„„ t knit a stitch for the seam, tie in a piece of coloured fEL U* fw ' ! P i tW -!' P 1 * tw( YP url OI10 > P™l •' cotton, and purl this stitch throughout, knit plain for hree tog-ether, nurl one. knit two. ninl twn Vm't +«.,-. six'rounds. ' ' ' For the fancy pattern, either the stripe with twisted . or the herringbone stripe in No. 10. (page 40), or the oval and diamond pattern, No. 30, (pi'go 45), will be suitable. Of course in knitting in the round the purled rounds must be knitted instead of purled, fcke patterns aro described for working on two pins. Keep the back pin in plain knitting throughout and k the fancy pattern on the two front | on- te for two inches before beginning the heel, or longer if preferred. For the heel: Work on thirty stitches, one r knit, and one row purl, for one and a hall inch. For the centre of heel, work sixteen plain, kn ither, knit one, turn, purl four, purl two t •, purl one, turn, knit five, knit two together, one; continue in this way, knitting one more ■e the two together until all the stit< I are knitted. Tick up twenty-four stitches on each side of the heel (keep the front stitches on one pin and the sole stitches on two pins) ; continue the pat- tern on the front pin. To shape the foot, decrease two stitches at the beginning of one sole pin and at the end of the other until thirty stitches remain on the two solo" pins, work one and a half inch without increase or decrease' knit all round plain for three rounds; in the fourth at the beginning of the front pin, knit one, sup one purl one pass the slip stitch over. At the end oft! pin knit two together, knit one. At ' ,f the t; p in knit one, slip one knit ono pass the slip stitch over; at the end of tho COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE 47 second sole pin knit two together, knit one. The next round is plain knitting without decrease. Con- tinue to work the last two rounds alternately till twenty-six stitches remain, cast off, and sow up the toe on the wrong side.* No. 25.— CORD. Cast on five stitches. 1st Bow : Slip one, knit four. 2nd Row : Slip one as if for purling, knit three, purl one at the back. These two rows are repeated alternately. This is suitable for passing through a row of holes to draw up pelerines, petticoats, &c, or will make a good gaiter by casting on fifteen stitches. Nos. 26 to 28.— INFANT'S GAIT: Materials Required: 4- oz white Berlin wool, four pins No. 14- (Walker's gauge). Cast on seventy-two stitches, that is twenty-four on each of three pins. Knit two and purl two for two and a half inches; for tho first to fourth rounds of calf (sec design No. 27), knit with the exception of the centre stitch of one pin, which is purled in every round to form the seam. Mark the stitch by drawing a piece of coloured wool through it, so that you may observe to purl it in every round. 5th Round : Knit one, purl two, repeat. Increase by knitting the back, as well as the front of the loop, be- fore and after the seam in each fourth round three timos, repeat from the first to tho fifth rounds four times, then commence the decrease in tho same propor- tion as you increased (by taking two together) until you have worked eight patterns ; purl two rounds, then commence the pattern shown in .V . 1st to 3rd Rounds : Knit, decrease two In the first round. 4th to 7th Rounds : Purl three, knit three, decrease two in tho fifth round, repeat from the first to the tit li rounds twice more, then divide tho stitches as j on would for the foot of a stocking, that is, take the ie number for the heel as there are for the front of foot. Continue the pattern on the back half of stitches for twenty-eight rows. Cast off. Pick up the stitches at each side of the heel and knit them on the pin with the front stitches. Decrease by knitting two together at the .beginning and end of every row until twenty -six stitches remain. Cast off. Sew a strap of leather to each sido of the front to ■ tho foot. The simulated buttonholes are ma. ; ga), by working one treble into a stitch at the side o chain, pass over two stitches and i button is sewn in each scallop. No. 2?.— INFANT'S BODICE. Mai • Required: 5 oz white Berlin wool, four pins No. 14 (Walker's gauge). Commence with the band for the waist. Cast on twenty-eight stitches, work backwards and forwards in plain knitting until you have worked eighteen or twenty inches ; now commence the decrease for the pointed flap by — 1st Row : Knit two ss together at the begin- ning of the row, knit six, slip ono knit one pass the i st it.'h over, knit to within ten stitches of the end, slip one knit ono pass the slip stitch over, knit six, knit two together. 2nd Row : Knit seven, cotton twice over the pin, knit to within seven stitches of the end, cotton twico over the pin, knit seven. 3rd Bow : Knit two together, knjt five, knit one and purl ono in the made stitches, and knit tho two last stitches 'if the row 4th Row: Knit six. slip ono knit -lip jver, knit across to the other stifcehes worked in the made stitch, slip ono knit one pass the slip stitch over, knit six. The holes thus formed are for buttonholes, which should bo worked over in buttonhole-stitch. Continue the decrcaso at the beginning and end of every other row until you havo sixteen stitches on the pin, when make another hole as before described ; when only twelve stitches remain cast off. Fold the band as shown in the illustration, pick up the back half of stitches, knit one and purl one, alter- nately for three inches. The purl and knitted stitches must be reversed ifi*every other row to keep tho rib on the right side ; cast off. Tho fronts are worked in two parts ; pick up the stitches for one side, knit one and purl one alternately for three inches, cast off all but the six stitches neai the arm, on theso work four more rows and cast off. The other half of front is worked in tho same way. Sew tho back and front together at the shoulders. With three pins pickup the stitches round the arm- hole for tho sleeve, knit two, and purl two alternately for two inches. Cast off. A crochet edge is worked round the neck and sleeves. 1st Row : One treble into a stitch at tho edge of knitting, one treble into tho next stitch, two chain, pass over two stitches and repeat. 2nd Row : Ono double under two chain, three chain. Repeat. A ribbon is run through the row of trebles and is tied in front. No. 3D.- OVAL AND DIAMOND PATTERN. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by six. 1st Row : Knit one, make one, knit two together at the back, knit one, knit two together, make one. Re- peat from the beginning of the row. 2nd ROW : Purl. The first and second rows are repeated alternately twico riiore. 7th Row : Knit two, make one, knit three together, make ono, knit one. Repeat from tho beginning of t lie row. 8th Row : Purl. 9th Row : Knit one, knit two together, make one, knit one, make one, knit two together at the back. . Repeat from the beginning of the row. 10th Row: Purl. 11th Row : Knit two together, * make one, knit three, make one, knit three together. Repeat from *. At tho end of tho row omit the made stitch and knit one. 12th Row : Purl. Then repeat from the first row. No. 31.— See No. 22. Nd. 32.— .STRIPE WITH CROCHET EDGE. Cast on as many stitches as are needed for tho length of your work. 1st Row: Knit. 2nd Row : Purl. 3rd Bow : Knit. 4th Row : Purl. 5th Row: Make one, knit two together throughout. Gth Bow : Purl. Bepeat from tho first row. For the crochet edge : — 1st Bow : Work one treble into a stitch of the knit- tiny, two chain, pass over two. Repeat. 2nd Row : Ono double, ono half treble, one treble, ono half treble,, and one doublo under each two chain throughout. No. 33.— TOBACCO-BAG. Materials Required: One ball red, andoneball bl knitting-silk, four pins No. 18 (Walker's gauge). With red silk cast on 180 stitches, that is sixty stitches on each of three pins, knit eight* ;ds plain. 48 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL 21st Round, with black silk : Make one, knit two together. 22nd Round, with the same colour : Knit. With red silk continue to knit and purl alternately for one inch. Work one round like the twenty-first, then continue one round knit, and one round purl for five inches. To commence the decrease for the bottom : — 1st Round: Knit two together, knit five. Repeat all round. 2nd to 4th Rounds : Knit. 5th Round : Like first. 7th to 10th Rounds : Knit. 8th Round : Knit four, take two together. 9th to 11th Rounds: Knit, 12th Round : Like eighth round. 13th to 15th Rounds : Knit, 16th Round : Knit three, knit two together. 17th to 19th Rounds : Knit. 20th Round : Like sixteenth round. 21st Round : Plain. 22nd Round : Knit one, knit two together. Repeat the two last rounds until you can decrease no more, draw up the loops that are left with a needle and silk. Hem the top of the bag so that the hem comes just above the second row of holes, the first row forming the top edge. Line the bag with wash-leather ; make a crochet chain of black silk, and pass through the row of holes to close the bag up ; tie silk tassels on to the chain. No. 34— INSERTION. Cast on twelve stitches. 1st Row : Knit two, make one, knit two together twice, cotton twice over the pin, knit two together, knit two, make one, knit two together. 2nd Row : Knit two, make one, knit two together, knit two, purl one, knit three, make one, knit two together. 3rd Row : Knit two, make one, knit two together, knit six, make one, knit two together. 4th Row : Like third row. Repeat from the first row. No. 35. -SQUARE FOR COUNTERPANE. Materials Required: Strutts' cotton No. 12, super three-threads, five pins No. 19 (Walker's gauge) Cast on 184 stitches, that is forty-six stitches on each of four pins. 1st Round : Knit. 2nd Round : Purl. 3rd Round : Make one, knit two together throughout. 4th Round : Knit. 5th Round : Purl two together at the beginning and end of each pin, purl the remaining stitches. Repeat the fourth and fifth rounds alternately, until only one stitch remains on each pin. Break off the cotton and draw through all the stitches on the pins with a needle and the end of the cotton. No. 36.— DIAMOND WITH OPEN TRELLIS Cast on any number of stitches divisible by fourteen 1st Row : Kmt one, make one, knit two together at the back, make one, knit two together at the back, kmt five, knit two together, make one, knit two toge- ther, make one. Repeat. 2nd Row : Purl. ^ 3r S K , ow : J f nit two ' make one > knit two together at the back, make one, knit two together at the back, knit three, knit two together, make one, knit two toge- ther, make one, knit one. Repeat 4th Row : Purl. 5th Row: Knit three make one, knit two together at the back, make one, knit two together at the back xnit one knit two together, make one, knit two toge- ther, make one, knit two. Repeat. 6th Row : Purl. 7th Row : Knit four, make one, knit two together at the back, make one, knit three together, make one, knit two together, make one, knit three. Repeat. 8th Row : Purl. 9th Row : Knit three, knit two together, make one, knit two together, make one, knit one, make one, knit two together at the back, make one, knit two toge- ther at the back, knit two. Repeat. 10th Row : Purl. 11th Row : Knit two, knit two together, make one, knit two together, make one, knit three, make one, knit two together at the back, make one, knit two together at the back, knit one. Repeat. 12th Row : Purl. 13th Row : Knit one, knit two together, make one, knit two together, make one, knit five, make one, knit two together at the back, make one, knit two toge- ther at the back. Repeat. 14-th Row : Purl. 15th Row : Knit two together, * make one, knit two together, make one, knit seven, make one, knit two together at the back, make one, knit three together. Repeat from *. At the end of the last pattern in this row there will be only one stitch to knit instead of three together. 16th Row: Purl. Then repeat from the beginning of the row. No. 37 — DIAMOND PATTERN. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by four- teen. 1st Row : Knit four, * slip one knit two together pass the slipped stitch over the two knitted together, make one by knitting the horizontal loop before the next stitch, knit seven. Repeat from *. End the row with knit two. 2nd Row : Purl. 3rd Row: Knit three, * knit two together, make one, knit two together at the back, knit five. Repeat from *. End the row with knit two together at the back. 4th Row : Purl. 5th Row : Knit two, * knit two together, make one, knit one, make one, knit two together at the back, knit throe. Repeat from *. End the row with knit one. 6th Row : Purl. 7th Row : * Knit one, knit two together, make one, knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knit two together at the back. Repeat from *. End the row with knit one. 8th Row': Purl. 9th Row : Knit two together, * knit seven, slip one, knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over the two knitted together, make one by knitting the horizontal loop. Repeat from*. End the row with knit eight. 10th Row: Purl. 11th Row : Make one, * knit two together at the back, knit five, knit two together, make one, knit one. Repeat from *. End the row with knit five. 12th Row : Purl. 13th Row : * Knit one, make one, knit two together at the back, knit three, knit two together, mako one. Repeat from *. End the row with knit one. 14th Row : Purl. 15th Row : Knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knit two together at the back, knit one, knit two together, make one, knit one, make one. Repeat from the beginning of the row. End the row with knit one. 16th Row : Purl. Then repeat from the first row. The two designs, Nos. 36 and 37, are suitable for either window-curtains or shawls ; if for the former use knitting cotton No. 18, and bone pins No. 10 (Walker's gauge). For shawls, Andalusian or Shetland wool, and bone pins No. 11 (Walker's gauge). mim m the w§m-tajk. KNITTING. NO. 38.— LEAF AND TRELLIS. KKriTTIKTQ, j SO THE YOUSG- LADIES' JOURNAL DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATION ON FACE 4: iB^siaGgsgsss No. 33.— LEAF AND TRELLIS PATtER This Ls a very beautiful pattern for shawls, curtains, &c. In working- a shawl or curtains it is boat to cast on sufficient stitches to work six stitches plain at the beginning and end of each row. This applies both to the purl and knit rows ; and to make the square com- plete, six rows of knit and purl alternately must be rvorked before beginning, and at the end of the work. Twenty stitches are needed for each pattern. Knitters must not expect to find that they can work to the end of the pattern described in the fast repeat of a row, in consequence of the pattern waving a great deal. It is always begun from one side and will work out perfectly correct, as anyone will find after trying it through. 1st Row: Purl. 2nd Row : Knit six, * make one and knit two to- gether three times, make one, knit two, knit two to- gether, knit, ten. Repeat from * (there will be only four out of ten stitches to knit before the border stitches of this row in the last repeat). 3rd Row : Purl. 4th Row : Knit two, * knit two together, knit two, make one, knit one, make one and knit two together five times, knit five. Repeat from *. 5th Row : Purl. 6th Row : Knit one, * knit two together, knit two, make one, knit three, make one and knit two together three times, make one, knit two. knit two together, knit three. Repeat from *. 7th Row : Purl. 8th Row : Knit two together, knit two, make one, knit five, make one and knit two together three times, make one, knit two, knit two together, knit one. Re- peat from beginning of row. 9th Row : Purl. 10th Row : Knit three, * make one, knit seven, make one and knit two together three times, make one, knit two, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over the last stitch, knit two. Repeat from * (in the last repeat there will be but one stitch to pass the slip stitch over, beforo the edge stitches, which must bo kept straight). 11th Row : Purl. 12th Row : Knit two together, knit five, * knit two together and make one five times, knit one. make one, knit two, knit two together, knit five. . from*. 13th Row : Purl. 14-th Row : Knit five, * knit two together, I; nit two, make one and knit two together three times, make one, knit three, make one, knit two, knit two toge- ther, knit three. Repeat from *. 15th Row: Purl. 16th Row: Knit four. * knit two together, knit two, make one and knit two together three times, make one. knit five, make one. knit two, knit two together, knit one. Repeat from *. 17th Row: Purl. 18th Row : Knit three, knit two together, knit two, * make one and knit two together three times, make one. knit seven, make one. knit two, slip one. knit two together, pass tho slip stitch over the last, knit two. Repeat from *. Repeat from the third row for the required length. COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE, 51 KNITTING (Continued). jje-coo- Nos. 39 and «.— HALF-SQUARE SHAWL. Materials Required: 3 oz blue Berlin wool, eight balls Messrs. Faudel, Phillips, & Son's white pom- padour wool, two bone pins No. 9 (Walker's gauge). This pretty and effective shawl is easily worked, and will be found a most comfortable opera-wrap ; it measures If yard across the top from point to point. Cast on with Berlin wool 300 stitches. Decrease to shape the shawl by knitting two together at the end of each row ; work in plain knitting throughout. 1st. Bow : With Berlin wool. 2nd to 9th Bow: With pompadour wool. 10th Bow : With Berlin wool to form the lozenge- shaped pattern. When working the first and second stitch pick up and knit the corresponding stitches of tho last Berlin row with them, knit eight stitches, then pick up the two next stitches and so on (see design No. 40). 11th Row: With Berlin wool, knit plain. Repeat from the second row, reversing the pattern formed in the tenth row by picking up tho stitches between those picked up in tho tenth row. The two sides are finished by tying in lengths of wool to form tassels. The straight edge is finished by crochet scallops of pompadour wool. 1st Bow: One double into each of tho cast-on stitches. 2nd Row: One double into a stitch, pa r two doubles, five trebles into the next. Repeat. Ko. 41.— STRIPE WITH HEMMED TOP STOCKING. Cast on three pins any number of stitches divisible bv eight. 1st to 6th Rounds : Knit. 7th Round: Make one, knit tw her through- out. 8th to 13th Rounds: Knit. When the work is finished, the first six rounds are turned down and hemmed, lea\ seventh round to form the points at tho top. 14th and 15th Rounds: Purl. Now commence tho pattern. 1st Round : Knit one, make one, knit, two, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over the two knitted together, knit two, make one. Repeat from the beginning of the round. 2nd Bound s Knit. These two rounds are repeated alternately. Xo. ^.-INSERTION. -t on twenty-eight stitches. 1st Row: Slip one, make one, knit two together twice, make one, knit two together, knit rive, knit two together, make one, knit two together, knit five, knit two together, make one, knit two together, knit one, make one, knit two together. 2nd Row: Slip one, make one, knit two together, knit one. knit one and purl one in tho mado stitch, knit seven, knit one and purl one in the mado si . knit seven, knit one and purl one in the mado stitch, knit two, make one, knit two together. 3rd Row: Slip one, make one, knit two together, knit seven, knit two together, make one, knit two together twice, make one, knit two together, knit eight, make one, knit two together. 4th Bow: Slip one, make one, knit two togetl knit eight, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit two, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit nine, make one, knit two together. 5th Row Slip one, make one, knit two together, knit five, knit two together, make one, knit two toge- ther twice, make one, knit two together twice, make one, knit two together, knit six, make one, knit two together. 6th Bow : Slip one, make one, knit two together, knit six, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit two, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit two, knit one and purl one in tho made stitch, knit seven, make one, knit two together. 7th Bow : Like tho third row. 8th Row : Like the fourth row. 9th Row : Like the first row. 10th Row : Like the second row. 11th Row : Slip one, make one, knit two together, knit two, knit two together, make one, knit two toge- ther, knit ten, knit two together, make one, knit two together, knit three, make one, knit two together, 12th Row : Slip one, make one, knit two together, knit three, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit twelve, knit ono and purl one in the made stitch, knit four, make one, knit two together. 13th Row: Slip one. make one, knit two together twice, make one, knit two together twice, make one, knit two together, knit six, knit two together, mak ono, knit two together twice, make one, knit two toge- ther, knit one, make one, knit two together. 14th Row: Slip one, make one, knit two together, knit one, knit one and purl one in the rnade stitch, knit two, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit eight, knit one and purl one in tho made stitch. knit two, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit two, make one, knit two together. 15th Row : Like the eleventh row. 16th Row: Like the twelfth row, then repeat from tho first row. Xos. 43 an-l) 47. -INFANT'S PETTICOAT. uxs Required: 8 oz white and 2ozpink Ber- lin wool or peacock fingering, four pins No. 10 (Walker's gauge). Commence with the bodice. Cast on sixty stitches, knit six rows, knit twenty stitches on these with the third pin, knit ton rows, cast oft' (this is for the first half of front) ; cast off twenty stitches of the forty left on the first pin (that is for the shoulder). Knit on the remaining twenty stitches for twenty rounds for the back of bodice, cast on with the third pin twenty stitches for tho other half of front and knit ten rounds ; then on the same pin cast on twenty more for the other shoulder, knit on ono pin with the twenty for the back ; you will now have sixty stitches on the pin, on these knit six rounds and cast off. Sew up under the arms with a needle and wool. Pick up the stitches round the armhole with three pins and knit with a fourth six plain rows. Pick up the stitches at the waist, for the band, make one, knit two together throughout, this forms the holes at the waist through which to run the ribbon to tie round the waist. Next row knit plain. For the pattern shown in No. 47. 1st Bow : Knit ono and purl one in the first and last stitches, knit the rest pi; THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL NO. 40.— DETAIL OF SHAWL NO. 4r.— STKIPE WITH HEM TOP. m 4-». -^,r^'-*,r •■■••■■■ "N'O. 4^-«TNFAWT>*a PFTTlOQ^f, ^ COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 53 VO. JO —DOUBLE ROSE LEAF. NO. 5 1. — CORAL PATTERN. JBOB^BHMkl 54 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL 2nd Row : Knit. 3rd Row : Purl. 4th Raw : Purl one, knit one in the first and last stitches, purl the rest. 5th Row : Knit one, purl one. 6th Row : Knit one, slip one. 7th Row : Purl. 8th Row : Knit. 9th Row : Knit. Repeat from the first row five 1 lines mere and cast off. The lower half of skirt is worked separately in cable pattern, directions for working which will be found in No. 13, (page 38). Cast on fifty-four stitches, this will allow for six plain stitches at each edge, and twelve stitches between each of three patterns. This is sewn to the skirt with. a. needle and wool ; the pink stripes are worked in crochet on the sixth row of plain stripes between the cable patterns. At the bottom of petticoat and round the sleeves work one double into a stitch of knitting, pass over one stitch, five trebles into the next, pass over one stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the row. For the crochet edging round the neck: — 1st Row : Work with white wool one double into a stitch of knitting, one chain, pass over one stitch, and repeat. 2nd Row : One double under one chain, three chain. Repeat. A ribbon is run through the first row and is tied in front. Nos. 44 and 48.— TRIMMING FOR CHEMISE. Materials Required : Crochet cotton No. 20, and two ' pins No. 20 (Walker's gauge). Cast on twenty-four stitches. 1st and 2nd Rows : Knit. 3rd Row : Slip one, knit two together, make one, knit two together, knit fourteen, knit two together, make one, knit two together, knit, one*. 4th Row : Knit one and purl one in the made stitches, knit the rest. 5th Row : Knit. 6th Row : Like the third row. 7th Row : Like fourth row. 8th Row : Like fifth row. 9th Row : Slip one, knit two together, make one, knit two together, knit five, knit two together, make one, knit two together, knit five, knit two together, make one. knit two together, knit one. 10th Row : Knit one and purl one in the made stitches, knit the rest plain. 11th Row : Slip one, knit seven, knit two together, make one, knit two together twice, make one, knit two together, knit eight. 12th Row : Slip one, knit two together, make one, knit two together, knit four, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit two, knit one and pnil one in the made stitch, knit four, knit two together, make one, knit two together, knit one. 13th Row : Slip one, knit one, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit two, knit two together, make one, knit two together twice, make one, knit two together twice, make one, knit two together, knit two, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit two. 14th Row : Knit one and purl one in the made stitches, knit the rest plain. 15th Row : Slip one, knit two together, make one, knit two together, knit three, knit two together, make one, knit two together twice, make one, knit two toge- ther, knit three, knit two together, make one. knit two together, knit one. 16th Row: Knit one and purl one in the made stitches, knit the rest plain. 17th Row: Slip one, knit nine, knit two together, make one, knit two together, knit ten. 18th Row: Knit one and purl ono in the made stitches, knit the rest plain. Repeat from the third row for the length required round the neck. The sleeves are worked separately, just the length for round the arm. For the crochet edge : — 1st Row: One double into a stitch of knitting, one ■chain, and repeat all round. 2nd Row : One double under one chain, ono chain. Repeat. 3rd Row : One double under one chain, three chain, one double into the first, one chain, pass over ono chain of last row, and repeat. A ribbon is run through the rows of holes in the knitting and is tied in bows, which shapes the top of the trimming. No. 45.-DESIGN FOR STOCKINGS, SOCKS, &c. This pattern is knitted in the round. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by ten. 1st Round: Purl three, make one, slip one, knil pass the slipped stitch over, knit five. 2nd Round; Purl three, knit two, make one, slip one, knit, one, pass the slip stitch over, knit four. 3rd Round: Purl three, knit two, mako one. slip one, knit one, pass the slip stitch over, knit three. 4th Round : Purl three, knit three, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slip stitch over, knit two. 5th Round : Burl three, knit four, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slip stitch over, knit one. 6th Round : Purl five, knit five, make ono, slip one, knit one, pass the slip stitch over. Repeat from the first round. , . No. 46.-DESIGN FOR CHILD'S PETTICOAT. Materials Required : 6 oz white peacock fingering, and two pins, No. 13 (Walker's gauge). With the wool and pins named nine stitches measure an inch. < last on any number of stitches divisible by four. 1st Row : Knit. 2nd and 3rd Rows : Purl. 4th Row: Knit. 5th Row: Make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slip-stitch over, knit two. 6th Row: Purl. 7th Row: Knit one, make one, tie, knit, cue, pass the slip-stitch over, knit two. End the row with knit one. 8th Row : Purl. 9th Row : Knit two, make one, slip one, knit pass the slip-stitch o -1 10th and 11th Hows : Purl. 12th Row : Knit, 13th Row: Knit three, purl on 14th Row: Knit one, purl three. 15th Row: Turl one, * knit one, purl three, from * ; end with purl two. 16th Row: Knit two, purl one, knit three ; end with knit one. 17th Row : Knit one, * purl one, knit three, it] from * ; end with knit two. 13th Row: Purl two, * knit one, purl three, repent from * ; end the row with purl one. Repeat from the thirteenth row for the length required. For the edging cast on seven stitches : — 1st Row : Slip one, knit two, make one, knit two together, cotton twice over the pin, knit two toge- ther. ii(w>i mM ... MflMflHHMfa 2nd Row : Slip one, purl one knit one and purl one in the stitch made by passing the cotton twice over the pin, knit two, make one, knit two together, knit one. 3rd Row : Slip one, knit two, make one, knit two together, knit four. 4th Row : Slip one, knit five, make one, knit two together, knit one. 5th Row : Slip one, knit two, make one, knit two together, cotton twice over the pin, knit two together, cotton twice over the pin, knit two together. 6th Row : Slip one, purl one, knit one, and purl one in the mado stitch, knit one, purl one, knit one, and purl one in the next made stitch, knit two, make one, knit two together, knit one. 7th Row : Slip one, knit two, make one, knit two together, knit eight. 8th Row : Cast off six stitches, knit three, make one, knit two together, knit one. Repeat from the firsl row. This edging is sewn to the bottom of petticoat with a needle and wool. \,,. 47.— S,- No. 43. No. 48.— See Ho. 44. No. 49.— INFANT'S (-LOVE. Materials Required for a Pair: 1 ov. white Berlin wool, one skein blue, two knitting-pins No. 10, and two No, 14 (Walker's bell gauge). Cast on fifty-seven stitches with pins No. 10. 1st to 14th Rows': Make one, slip one, knit two together. Repeat to the end of row. 15th to 18th Rows : With No. 14 pins, like first to fourteenth. 19th How : Knit one, knit two togother. Repeat. 20th Row : Knit one, * make one, knit two together. Repeat from * to the end of row. 21st Row : Knit. 22nd Row : Knit one, purl ohe. Repeat. 23rd Row: Purl the knitted and knit the purl stitches of last row. The twenty-second and twenty- third rows are repeated three times. 30th Row : Make one, slip one, knit one. Repeat to the end of row. 31st to 37th Rows : Make one, slip one, knit two together. Repeat to the end of rows. 38th Row : .Make one, slip one, knit two together, repeat fivo times more; turn, leaving the other stitches, and knit the eighteen stitches in the same pattern for thirteen rows more. 52nd Row : Knit one, knit two together to the end of row. 53rd Row : Knit two together to the end of row, then cast off. This forms the thumb. Now, with the stitches that are left on the pin, com- mence the thirty-ninth row of hand by knitting three stitches together to decrease one rib. 'then make one, slip one, knit two together to the end of row. 40th Row : Make one, slip one. knit two together to the end of row, knitting the three last stitches t«?e- ther. Repeat the two last rows once more, but you will have only two stitches to knit together at the end. 43rd Row : Knit three together ; to decrease as be- fore. * make one, slip one, knit two together. Repeat from * 44th Row : Make one, slip one, knit two together, knitting three together at the end; repeat thu last row fourteen times more, knitting two instead of three together at the end of the rows. 59th Row : Knit one, knit two together to the end- 60th Row : Knit one, purl one. Repeat. 61st Row : Like sixtieth row. 62nd Row : Knit two together, repeat, then cast off, sew the ends and inside of the thumb together, and the edge-stitches of the hand ; a narrow sarsnet ribbon may be run through the holes at the wrist if preferred, or a row of crochet chain may bo worked round it to draw the wrist in a little. This glove is for the righi hand. Commence to knit the hand part first instead of the thumb for the left hand. The little pattern on the cuff is made by working diagonally about fou. chain-stitches with a needle and bluo wool. No. 50.— DOUBLE ROSE-LEAF PATTERN. Cast on three stitches for each close stripe, and seventeen stitches for each open stripe. As many stripes can bo worked as the width of article requires • the open stripe must have a close stripe on each side of it, 1st Row : * Knit one, purl two, knit one, make one, knit one, slip one, knit one. pass the slipped stitch over, purl one, knit two together, 'knit one, purl one, knit one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, purl one, knit two together, knit one, make one knit one, repeat from * ; end tho row with purl two knit one. , r - 2nd Row : * Purl one. knit tw;>, purl four, knit oncv purl two, knit one, purl two, knit one ; purl four, re, peat from * ; end the row with knit two, purl one. 3rd Row : * Knit one, purl two, knit one, make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one. pass tho slipped stitch over, purl one, knit two together, purl one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, purl one, knit two together, make one, knit one, make one, knit one, repeat from * ; end the row with purl two, knit one. 4th Row •. * Purl one, knit two, purl five, knit one, purl one, knit one, purl one, knit one, purl five, repeat from * ; end with knit two, purl one. 5th Row : * Knit one, purl two, knit one, make one. knit three, make one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over, purl one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, kni? three, make one, knit one, repeat from * ; end with purl two, knit one. 6th Row : * Purl one, knit two, purl seven, knit one, purl seven, repeat from * ; end with knit two, pwi I one. 7th Row : * Knit one, purl two, knit one, make one, knit five, make one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, knit five, make or.! ,. knit one, repeat from * ; end with purl two, knit 03 8th Row : * Purl one, knit two, purl seventeen, re- peat from * ; end with knit two, purl one. There are eight rows to a pattern. Sixteen rows must be worked before whole pattern is seen No. 51. -CORAL PATTERN. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by tv. one. 1st Row : Knit two together, knit three, knit t\\ together, knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knir, one, knit two together, knit three, knit two togeti knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knit two. 2nd Row : Purl. 3rd Row: Knit two together, knit one, knit two to- gether, knit one, make one, knit three, make one, 1. 1 one, knit two together, knit one, knit two together- knit one, make ©ne, knit three, make one, knit two. 56 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL 4th Eow: Purl. 5th Row : Slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over, knit one, make one, knit five, make one, knit one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over, knit one, make one, knit five, make one, knit two. 6th Row : Purl. 7th Row : Knit two, make one, knit one, make one, knit one, knit two together, knit three, knit two to- gether, knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knit one, knit two together, knit three, knit two together. 8th Row : Purl. 9th Row : Knit two, make one, knit three, make one, knit one, knit two together, knit one, knit two toge- ther, knit one, make one, knit three, make one, knit one, knit two together, knit one, knit two together. 10th Row : Purl. 11th Row : Knit two, make one, knit five, make one, knit one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over, knit one, make one, knit five, make one, knit one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over. Repeat from the first row. FEATHER-PATTERN KNITTING. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by twenty- five, allowing three extra stitches at each edge to be knitted plain, to form a straight edge. 1st Row : Knit the three fiast stitches, knit two to- gether four times, * knit ohe^ make one, and knit one two together row with knit eight times, knit from *. End the times, knit throe. 2nd Row : Purl. 3rd Row : Knit. 4th Row : Purl. Repeat from the first row eight two times, repeat together four KNITTED JACKET FOR LADY. Materials Required: 6 oz each scarlet and gray double Berlin wool, two bone knitting pins, No 6 (Walker's gauge), a tricot hook No. 7. This jacket is veiy easy to make ; it is knitted in three stripes, two gray and one scarlet. The stripes are joined by a needle and wool. For the gray stripes, which are made long enough to pass over the shoulder and form both the front and back stripe, cast on twenty-one stitches, knit three and purl three alter- nately ; always slip the first stitch ; continue to knit thus until you have made the stripe the length re- quired, purling the knitted and knitting the purled stitches in each alternate row. About 174 rows will be required. These stripes compose the two sides, shoulder-pieces, and fronts. The stripe for the back is knitted with scarlet wool in the same way, making it half the length. The light stripes are sewn one each side of the back, then each is folded and sewn up under the arm, leaving a sufficient space for the arm- hole. With scarlet wool work a stripe of tricot on eight stitches. For the edge of the stripes work one double into a stitch, four chain, one treble into first of four chain, pass over two stitches of tricot and re- peat. This stripe is sewn to the jacket as shown in the illustration.- A similar stripe serves for the sleeves, working on six instead of eight stitches, jacket is fastened by pearl buttons. The PETTICOAT KNITTED IN STRIPES. Materials Required : f lb Berlin or three-thread fleecy wool, two bone knitting-pins No. 9, and two pins No. 11 (Walker's gauge). This petticoat is simply and quickly made ; it is composed of twelve stripes, each knitted separately. Commence at the bottom ; cast on with white wool forty-one stitches. 1st Row : Make one, knit nineteen, slip one, knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over the two knitted together, knit nineteen. 2nd Row : Make one, knit to the end of the row. These two rows are repeated throughout. The 3rd, 4th, 7th, 8th, 11th, and 12th rows are knitted with blue wool, all the rest with white. To decrease the size of the petticoat towards the waist, knit with No. 11 pins after two-thirds of the length has been worked. The length of the petticoat must be regulated according to the size required. When all the stripes aro worked, they are joined together on the right side with single-stitches worked in crochet. For the crochet edge, work with blue wool one double into the edge of knitting, four chain, one treblo into first of four chain, one double into petticoat. Re- peat all round. The top of the petticoat is sewn to a deep band of white linen ; put the points into the linen band. The bottom is finished by a kilting of muslin, edged with lace, put in under the points. BRIOCHE MAT. Materials Required : 1 oz each of two colours double Berlin wool, two pins No. 8 (Walker's gauge). Pale blue or coral pink with bronze-green will make a pretty mat. Cast on eighteen stitches. 1st Row : Put the pin into a stitch, wind the wool three times over first two fingers of the left hand and over the pin, pull the three thicknesses through and knit off the stitch, repeat from beginning three times more, * make one, slip one, knit two together, *. You will now have seven stitches on right-hand pin. 2nd Row : Turn, * make one, slip one, knit two to- gether, * knit four, taking the loops of fringe with each stitch. 3rd Row : Repeat from beginning to end of first row, repeat from * to * once more. You wjill now have ten stitches on your right-hand pin. 4th Row : Like second row, repeating from * to * twice. 5th Row : Like first row ; repeating from * to * throo times, you have thirteen stitches on right-hand pin. 6th Row : Like second row, repeating from * to * three times. 7th Row : Liko first, repeat from * to * three time?, knit five, you have now all the stitches on your pin. 8th Row : With the second colour, knit five, make one, slip one, knit two together three times, knit four. Repeat from the beginning fifteen times more. Cast off, sew up, and draw the centre closely together. £MMTI CTM T© Til W«K-TMK« KNITTING, NO. $2.— COUNTERPANE "Willi DIAMOND STRIPE. KNITTING, Mi ' 58 THE YOUNG LADIES* JOURNAL KNITTING (Cortttrtized). No. 52.— DIAMOND STRIPE FOR COUNTERPANE. Materials Required: Strutts' best three-thread knit- ting cotton No. 16; two knitting pinsNo. 16 (Walker's .$ bell gauge). The quantity of cotton must depend on the size of quilt. For the wide stripe cast on fifty-three stitches. 1st Row: Purl one and knit one ten limes, purl threo, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three ; knit one and purl one ten times. 2nd Row: Knit one and purl one ten times, knit three, purl three, knit one, pud three, knit three, purl one and knit ono ten times. 3rd Row : Like first row. 4th Row : Purl one and knit ono nine times, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl' one, knit one, purl three, knit throe. Purl and knit alternately to the end of the row. 5th Row: Purl tho knitted and knit the purled stitches of last row. 6th Row : Like fourth row. 7th Row : Pur! and knit alternately nine times, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 8th Row : Like the fifth row. 9fch Row : Like the seventh row. 10th Row : Purl and knit alternately eight times, puri ono, knit three, purl three, knit One, purl five, knit one, purl three, knit three. Purl and knit alter- nately to the end of the row. 11th Row : Like eighth row. 12th Row : Like tenth row. 13th Row : Purl and knit alternately eight times, purl three, knit throe, purl one, knit three,' purl one, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 14-th Row : Like eleventh row. 15th Row: Like thirteenth row. 16th Row : Purl and knit alternately seven times, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit ono, purl three, knit three, purl three, knit ene, purl three, knit throe. Pud and knit alternately to the end of the row. 17th Row : Like fourteenth row. 18th Row : Like sixteenth row. 19th Row: Pud and knit alternately seven times, purl throe, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl five, • knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 20th Row : Like seventeenth row. 21st Row : Like nineteenth row. 22nd Row : Purl and knit alternatelv six times, purl one, knit throe, pud three, knit one, purl three, knit seven, purl three, knit one. purl three, knit ti Purl and knit alternately to the end of tin; row. 23rd Row : Like twentieth row. 24-th Row : Like twenty-second row. 25th Row: Purl and knit alternatelv six times, pud threo, knit three, purl one, knit three", purl nine, knit threo, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 26th How: Like twenty-third row. 27th Row : Like twenty-fifth row. 28th Row: Purl one and knit one alternatelv five times, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit one,' purl three, knit eleven, purl three, knit one, purl three, knit three. Purl and knit alternately to the end of the row. 29th Row : Like twenty-sixth row. 30th Row : Like twenty-eighth row. _ 31st Row : Purl one and knit one alternately five times, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl six, make one, knit one, make one, purl six. knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alter- nately to tho end of the row. 32nd Row : Knit tho purl and purl the knitted and made stitches. 33rd Row : Purl one and knit, one alternately five times, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl six, knit one, make one, knit ono, make one, knit one, purl six, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of tho row. _ 34th Row : Purl one and knit one alternately four times, purl one, knit three, purl three knit one, purl three, knit seven, purl five, knit seven, purl three, knit one. purl three, knit three. Purl and knit alternatelv to the end of the row. 35th How : Knit one and purl one alternately four times, knit one, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl seven, knit fcw«, make one, knit one, make one, knit two, purl seven, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 36th How : Pud the knit, and made stitches, and knit the purl stitches of last row. _ 37th Row : Purl one and knit one alternately four times, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl eight, knit three, make one, knit one, make one, knit three, purl eight, knit throe, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternatelv to the end of the row. 38th Row : Like thirty-sixth row. 39th Row : Purl one and knit one alternately feur times, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl eight, knit two together at the back, knit five, knit two together, purl eight, knit throe, purl ono, knit three, purl threo. Knit and purl alternately to tho end of the row. 40th Row: Purl one and knit one alternately three times, purl one, knit three, pud three, knit one. purl three, knit nine, purl seven, knit nine, purl three, knit one. purl three, knit three. Purl and knit alternately to the end of the row. _ 41st Row : Knit one and purl ono alternately three times, knit one, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl nine, knit two toget her at the back, knit three, knit two together, purl nine, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 42nd Row : Purl the knit and knit the purl stitches of last row. 43rd Row: Purl one and knit one alternately three times, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl ten, knit two together at the back, knit one, knit two together, purl ten, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to tho end of the row. 44th How : Like forty-second row. 45th How: Pud one and knit one alternately three tim )S, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, pud COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 59 ten, slip one, knit two together, and pass the slip stitch over them, purl ten, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 46th Row: Pari one and knit one alternately twice, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl th knit twenty-three, purl throe, knit one, purl three, knit three. " Purl and knit alternately to the end oi the row. " , . 47th Sow : Knit ono and purl one alternately twice, knit one, curl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl twenty-three, knit three, purl ono, knit th purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end oi the row. „ , , ...... i 48th Row : Knit the purl and purl the knit stitches of last row. 49th Row: Purl one and knit ono alternately twice, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl six, make one, knit one, make one, purl eleven, make one, knit one; make one, purl six, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. , 50th Row : Purl the knitted and mado stitches and knit the purl stitches of last row. 51st Row: Purl one and knit, one alternately twice, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl six, knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knit one, purl eleven, knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knit one, purl six, knit throe, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the 52nd Row: Purl one, knit one, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl three, knit seven, purl live, knit eleven, purl five, knit seven, purl three, knit one, purl three, knit three. Purl and knit alternately to the end of the row.' 53rd Row : Knit one, purl one, knit one, purl_ three, knit throe, purl one, knit throe, purl seven, knit two, make one, knit one, make ono, knit two, purl elc knit two, make one, knit one, make one, knit two, purl seven, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl throe. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 54th Row : Like fiftieth row. 55th Row : Purl ono, knit, one, purl throe, knit three, purl one, knit throe, purl eight, knit three, make one, knit one, make one, knit three, purl eleven, knit throe, make one, knit one, make one, knit three, purl eight, knit, three, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl one. 56th Mow : Like fifty-fourth row. 57th Row : Purl one, knit one, nurl three, knit three, purl one, knit throe, purl eight, knit two together at the back, knit five, knit two top-other, purl eleven, knit two together at the back, knit five, knit two together, purl eight, knit three, purl one, knit tl purl three, knit one, purl one. 53th Row : In this row the decrease of the diamond is commenced. Purl one, knit one, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl three, knit seven, purl seven, knit eleven, purl seven, knit seven, purl three, knit ono, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit i purl one. 59th Row : Knit one, purl one, knit one, purl three, knit three, purl ono, knit three, purl seven, knit two together at the back, knit three, knit two together, purl eleven, knit two together at the back, knit three, knit two 1 . purl seven, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl one, knit one. 60th Row: Like forty-eighth row. 61st Row : Purl ono,*knit one alternately twice, purl throe, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl six, knit two together at the back, knit one. knit two together, purl eleven, knit two together at the back, knit one, knit two together, purl six, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl one, knit ono, purl one. 62nd Row : Like sixtieth row. 63rd Row. Purl and knit alternately twice, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl six, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over them, purl eleven, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over them, purl six, knit three, purl one, knit, three, purl three, knit ono, purl one, knit one, purl 64th Row : Purl ono and knit one alternately twice, purl ono, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl three, knit twenty-three, purl three, knit one, purl thr knit three. Purl and knit alternately to the end oi row. 65th Row : Like sixty-second row. 66th Row : Like sixty-fourth row. 67th Row : Purl one and knit one alternately three times, purl three, knit tjirc«, purl one. knit three, purl ten, make one, knit one, make one, purl ten, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 68th Row : Like fiftieth row. 69th Row: Purl ono and knit one alternately three times, purl three, knit throe, purl one, knit thrce.purl ten, knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knit one. purl ten, knit three, purl one, knit throe, purl th; Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 70th Row: Purl one and knit one alternately three times, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl three, knit nine, purl live, knit nine, purl three, knit one, purl three, knit three. Purl and knit alternately to the end of the row. 71st Row: Knit one and purl one alternately th times, knit one, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit throe, purl nine, knit two, make one, knit one, make one. knit two, purl nine, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 72nd Row : Purl the knit and made stitches, and knit the purl stitches of last row. 73rd Row : Purl ono and knit one alternately four times, purl throe, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl eight, knit three, make one, knit one, make one, knit three, purl eight, knit throe, purl one, knit three, purl e. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 74th Row : Like seventy-second row. 75th Row: Purl ono and knit ono alternately four times, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl ei»'ht, knit two together at t he bade, knit five, knit two r, purl eight, knit three, purl one, knit th I >url three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 76th Row : Purl ono and knit one alternately four times, purl one, knit three, purl throe, knit one, purl throe, knit seven, purl seven, knit seven, purl three, knit one, purl three, knit three, purl ono and knit one alternately to the end of the row. 77th Rrfw : Knit one and purl one alternately four times, knit one, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl seven, knit two together at the back, knit thr. . two together, purl seven, knit three, purl . knit throe, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of row. 78th Row: Like forty-eighth row. 79th Row : Purl one and knit one alternately five times, nurl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl six, knit two together at. the back, knit one, knit two together, purl six, knit three, purl one, knit three, j throe. Knit and purl alternately to tho end of the row. 80th Row : Like forty-eighth row. 60 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL 81st Row: Purl one and knit one alternately five times, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl six, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over them, purl six, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 82nd Row : Purl one and knit one alternately five times, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl three, knit eleven, purl three, knit one, purl three, knit three. Purl and knit alternately to the end of the row. 83rd Row : Like forty-eighth row. 84th Row : Like eighty-second row. 85th Row: Purl one and knit one alternately six times, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl nine, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 86th Row : Like eighty-third row. 87th Row : Like eighty-fifth row. 88th Row : Purl one and knit one alternately six times, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl three, knit seven, purl three, knit one, purl three, knit three. Purl and knit alternately to the end of the row. 89th Row : Like eighty-sixth row. 90th Row : Like eighty- eighth row. 91st Row : Purl one and knit one alternately seven times, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl five, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 92nd Row : Like eighty-ninth row. 93rd Row : Like ninety-first row. 94-th Row : Purl one and knit one alternately seven times, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl three, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl three, knit three. Purl and knit alternately to the end of the row. 95th Row : Like ninety-second row. 96th Row : Like ninety-third row. 97th Row : Purl one and knit one eight times, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 98th Row : Like ninety-fifth row. 99th Row : Like ninety-seventh row. 100th Row : Purl one and knit one alternately eight times, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl five, knit one, purl three, knit throe. Purl and knit alternately to the end of the row. 101st Row : Like ninety-eighth row. 102nd Row : Like 100th row. 103rd Row : Purl one and knit one alternately nine times, purl three, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl one, knit three, purl three. Knit and purl alternately to the end of the row. 104-th Row : Like the 101st row. 105th Row : Like the 103rd row. 106th Row : Purl one and knit one alternately nine times, purl one, knit three, purl three, knit one, purl one, knit one, purl three, knit three. Purl and knit alternately to the end of the row. 107th Row : Like 104th row. 108th Row : Like 106th row. Now repeat from the first row for the length required. These stripes are alternated with a feather-pattern stripe, for which cast on twenty-five stitches. 1st Row : Purl four, knit three, knit two together, make one and knit one seven times, make one, knit two together at the back, knit three, purl four. 2nd Row : Knit four, purl two, purl two together at the back, purl fifteen, purl two together, purl two, knit four. 3rd Row : Purl four, knit one, knit two together, knit fifteen, knit two together at the back, knit one, purl four. 4th Row : Knit four, purl two together at the back, purl fifteen, purl two together, knit four. Repeat these four rows for the required length. The finished stripes must be sewn together. The border is the same as that shown on page 33. This border must be knitted in pieces and sewn toge- ther ; it will not show the joins if neatly sewn ; cast on on the same plan for which we gave directions. The number of stitches cast on must be divisible by twenty-one for the feather pattern, and by nine for the raised leaf pattern above it. Therefore you must cast on for three, six, nine, or twelve repeats of the feather pattern illustrating this principle. Three times twenty- one are sixty-three, and seven times nine are sixty- three. If this is not kept in mind the pattern will be thrown out. No. 53.— GENTLEMAN'S SOCK. Materials Needed : Four pins No. 14 (Walker's gauge), four cocoons of knitting wool, or 5 oz Scotch fingering. This will leave a little for mending when the stockings become worn. Cast on twenty-eight stitches on each of three pins with doubly wool ; for this, allow about two yards cf wool, and begin at the folded-over end. Knit two and purl two alternately until your work measures three and a half inches in depth. Then commence to knit plain, with the exception of the seam stitch, which must be purled in every row ; for this pick up an additional stitch level with the end of the wool left from casting on, which in working will remind you of the seam stitch when you come to it. When you have knitted seven inches divide the stitches : put half of the stitches on one pin to work the heel upon, thus twenty -one stitches on each side of the seam stitch ; divide the front stitches equally on two pins, the front stitches are now left until the heel is worked. Work the heel with double wool (if the socks are intended for hard wear) ; knit a row, decreasing by knitting two together eight times, that is, at every 'fifth stitch. Do not interfere with the seam, but continue it by purling it in the knitted rows and knitting it in the purled rows throughout the heel, continue to purl and knit the heel alternately for about twenty-eight rows or two and a quarter inches. For the gusset heel: Work twenty plain, knit two together, knit one, turn, purl nine, purl two together, purl one, turn, knit eleven, knit two together, knit one, continuo these two last rows, taking in two stitches more at each turn until all the side stitches are taken in. At each side of the heel pick up neatly thirty stitches, then take in the forty-three stitches left before commencing the heel, in tho round, but let them remain on a separate pin. decrease in every round until forty-two stitches are left at the sole. To decrease: Knit two together the right side and slip one, knit one, pass slip stitch over the left side (to know left from right, imagine sock on right foot). When the foot measures seven and a half inches or eight inches, according to size wanted, for the toe, knit five plain rounds. 6thRound: Decrease one stitch on each side of the front and each side of back stitches, always making the decrease in the second from the outside. 7th Round : One plain round. Continue 6th and 7th Rounds until twenty-eight stitches are left, cast off all round and sew up on the wrong side. COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 61 NO. ^.-DESIGN FOR SHATTLS. NO. S 7 . -CHILD'S PETTICOAT. NO. $4.«-COI7NTERrANE. »»q. $«.»irATO PATTWW, TO. s. 53 to 56,-^ROSETTE PATTERN POINT D'ANGLETERRE (ENGLISH-STITCH). There are several kinds of rosette patterns, which, according to tho number of threads stretched across, require a looser or closer spinning-stitch for the wheels. The spaces must be most regularly and evenly ar- ranged. For the rosettes in No. 53 the threads must be first of all stretched in one direction, then plaited through in the opposite direction ; they are then worked in lines, according to design. The rosettes in the double trellis pattern, No. 54, have at first only one of the diagonal threads stretched across ; the second slanting thread is placed in the working of the wheels, as shown in No. 54. Rosettes with loose thread-squares, represented in No. 56, are particularly intended for leaves. No. 55 shows the laying on of the threads. No. 56 represents the work farther advanced. The pattern is arranged over the first thread, stretched across, which forms a kind of vein through the leaf ; these rosettes may be used in their varieties for separate, middle, or joining patterns. Nos. 57 and 64.— SPINNING-WHEELS. These are very useful lor filling the empty spaces in foundations or patterns. No. 57 gives a wheel in which the thread is twisted over six thread bars in a line (point de Venise). This wheel is repeated in tho border in No. 64. Nos. 58 and 59. — PYRAMID PATTERN: IRISH- STITCH. No. 58 represents a thick pyramid pattern. First work the horizontal threads, and over these weave in the two diagonal threads, crossing each other, and forming regular slanting squares, which are filled up with darning-stitch (point de reprise), according to design. Commence each pyramid at the point) and work from that in separate lines, from the t op to the bottom, and carry the thread again through the finished lines upwards. For the open pyramids in No. 59, loose stitches are worked over the horizontal threads stretcluxl across, which are corded (twisted), and the loose stitches are firmly placed in in regular order. No. 60.— LEAF ORNAMENTATION. A row of point d'Espagne, enclosed by a very thick stripe of point de Bruxelles always four buttonhole- stitches in one (point d'Espagne). A line of point de Venise in thick scallops forms the inner edge. No. 61.— DOUBLE LEAF WITH VEIN. These patterns make a beautiful variety, and may be placed in various ways. The pattern of the leaf en the left is in point d'Espagne ; that on the right is in- loose point de Bruxelles, and has a vein. Such pat- terns, without reference to the kind of stitches, are called point de Valenciennes. Nos. 62 and 63. -TREFOILS WITH SEVERAL PATTERNS. These are only guides to show how the separate divisions of large leaves may be filled up with various lace-stitches, and joined together in the middle with a wheel, star, &c. Such stars or wheels may be worked in any of the various lace-stitches of the designs already explained. No. 64.— SIMPLE LACE BORDER. Materials Required fob a Yard : Four yards braid, one skein of thread, 8d.; tracing, 4d.— Price of mate- rials, tracing, and work begun, including postage, Is. 8d. The mode of tracing, also directions for tacking on tho braid, are explained. In this border the wheel given in No. 57 is used ; it also gives tho interwoven wheel. For this latter wheel, the twisted bars are worked with a common spinning-stitch, and then the threads drawn round are carried through the wind- ings of these bars, so that the wheel-winding is ex- tended, and the weaving appears light and prettv. The inner part of border is the same as that sliown in No. 24. '* ■ J l MH I Ilfl M fe lll g ^ m MfllTE mim T© Til WSM-TAM. POINT LACE, lace: old point (see page 75). EMI3HOIBERKD NET (SEE P iGE 80), 7' THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL LACE STITCHES FOR ORNAMENTING AND FILLING UP VARIOUS OF WORK-ROSETTES, SQUARES, OVALS, &C. DS *>5**e.-.-,. COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 75 shown in No. 32 ; the second inner row is stretched across, and worked inside, with thick, patterns of cross-stitches. At the outer edge are rings in point d'esprit, which join the working-thread. These rings extend from one to the other, forming a circle. Nos. 34 and 35.— SQUARE, WITH PYRAMID SCAL- LOPS AND INTERWOVEN WHEELS. The threads are stretched across as before de- scribed, and the wheels are interwoven into the inner triangle (No. 34). The outer edge consists of large and small pyramids interwoven, as shown in design. Nos. 36 and 37.— SQUARE, WITH PYRAMID SCAL- LOPS, POINT D'ESPRIT RINGS, AND PATTERNS OF CROSS-STITCHES. The threads are stretched across according to No. 32, then worked according to No. 36 ; with the same thread is worked a thick pattern of eight or twelve cross-stitches, lying over each other in each of the little middle triangles, as shown graduated in No. 36. The thread must be laid on afresh for the outer edge, and then a pyramid and a ring worked alternately. The finished square is shown in No. 37. Nos. 38 to 40.— SQUARE, WITH PYRAMID SCAL- LOPS AND POINT D'ESPRIT RINGS. For this, two single loop-lines, with tho thread drawn once through for a firm edge, must be worked into each other, exactly according to No. 32, and then according to No. 36, the middle triangles are filled up with single, and the large corner openings with three pyramid scallops. In the four spaces of the outer edge between the corners, adjoining the corner pattern, the rings are worked in point d'esprit. For the mode of working these, see No. 40. Nos. 41 and 42.— SQUARE, WITH RINGS IN POINT D'ESPRIT AND OPEN SCALLOPS. The stretching of the thread differs from No. 32 in tho second row, in adding which tho inner space is narrowed off to a ring, which is closely worked in point d'esprit, uniting eight radii, forming a star. As shown in design, the outer edge consists of alter- nately point d'Espagno scallops and rings in point d'esprit. These maybe easily worked from No. 42, and must be corded with the thread after they are looped on, so that the next ring may bo joined on imme- diately. DIRECTIONS FOR OLD POINT. Old point differs from modern point in this respect : it consists entirely of work. Braid is not used in it. The materials used are coarse crochet cotton and Nunn's thread Nos. 1 and 2. A tracing of the outline of the pattern must be made on transparent linen. The tracing must then be tacked upon toile cireo. The work is begun by tack- ing on the cord, made by twisting the crochet cotton, as seen in Nos. 1 and 2. Theso threads are made firm by a stitch taken through the foundation, and then twisted between the thumb and first finger of the left hand, and basted on at short distances, following the tracing with single stitohes. The basting-thread is shown in black on all the single illustrations, so as to be distinguished from the other stitches. The cord is most conveniently twisted from the outside to inside, as seen in Nos. 1 and 7. No. 3 shows one of the sim- plest shapes : a single-flower petal from a petal circle of the laco shown on the first page of this Supplement ; the six petals, each resting on a transparent button- hole ground, are enclosed in a cord-curved edge. Tho thick edge with which some of the patterns are worked on tho outside, and shown in No. 4, is of cord, and finished with open rows of buttonhole-stitch, standing apart, and worked backwards (with No. 2 thread). The thick raised edge (thread No. 2), which catches into the cord, must have in the first row of stitches the thread laid in, as in No. 6, marked out in black. In the row going back, this thread is left out, but for this reason every stitch must loop in this black thread. No. 7 shows one finished petal to one of the small flowers, and the others in different stages of execution. The five petals of this flower have a row of wide- worked lace-stitches. In order to make the lace-stitch edge stand out as a thick ring, the thread is wound round several times at first, and then worked closely with buttonhole-stitch. The leaf shown in No. 1 illustrates veining. Two or more threads are twisted together according to the thickness you desire the vein to be, and are held to the required length by the thumb and first finger of the right hand, twisted from left to right, and fas- tened with one stitch at the point. The open ground is made afterwards with fine thread in buttonhole- stitch, as seen in illustration. For the thick filling up of the middle rib, which is made like the thick leaf- stalks. No. 1 is a safe guide. This shows the two rows of butionhole-stitoh going backwards and for- wards with and without thread laid in, and the way theso arc joined to the second cord edge. The needle and thread are to be drawn through the cord before beginning the next stitch. ffl The way of making the leaf-veins is exceedingly in- teresting. No. 2 shows one of the two leaves joining on to the middle flower with a thick edge like the petal (No. 5), and open veins. These are made in the simplest possible manner, by winding over the dif- ferent thread parts. The first thread of the large vein is stretched the whole length, and then slung into tho point of the leaf wound over, going back as far as the first side vein ; again catching into the edge, and going down to the large vein, the work is continued further. The thread used for this purpose is No. 2. No. 8 shows another leaf with open vein part, which would make a pretty variation. It only remains to explain the open arabesques. No. 4 shows the open-work parts as a straight border, with the small open edge on one side, which all the patterns must have, and on the other side an edging border worked in tho same way, but formed to larger points by making a few buttonhole-stitches more. The wn.y of making the arabesques is illustrated in No. 4. The buttonhole bars and filling-in lace-stitches are tho same as those used in ordinary point lace. MATERIALS REQUIRED FOR OLD POINT LACE ON PAGE 73. Materials Rf.quit?kd f,)r One Yard : One skein cro- chet cotton, and four skeins of thread No. 2. — Price of materials, including postage, Is. 4d. ; tracing, from which any length may be worked, Is. ; mate- rials, tracing, and work begun. 3s. lOd. All materials for laco are supplied from the London Publishing Office of this Journal on receipt of P.O.O for the amount. All Post-office Orders should be mad© payable at Ludgate Circus. 76 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL ZFOHETT HuAlOIE. NO. g. NO. 10- NO. II. ISO. 8. NO. 13. L NO. 14. NO. 13. NO. 17; * NO. iS no. ig. m : t NO. 21 COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. ■^pjft faii-iiiniSiusvjjJi' «o. 38. NO. 4°« NO. 4*. &.V. 78 TKE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL eo. i. I TO 8. -ILLUSTKATJOXS OF DETAIL OF OLD POLTT. C*" COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE, 79 NO. I.— LIMOGES LACE. WO. 2. INSTRUCTIONS FOR WORKING LIMOGES POINT LACE. This lace was invented for and brought out in The Young Ladies' Journal. Since its publication anil popularity other persons have imitated it, and thought tit to give the name to lace made with point braid, which cannot be properly called Li* moges lace. The peculiarity of Limoges lace consists in its being made with plain braid, and the edge is all worked to it. The braid is shown very greatly men in si/.e in the diagrams 2, 3, and 4, which also show the proper mode of working the lace, and the braid in the pro- per width is shown in No. 1. In working Limoges lace it is very important that tho braid be soft and well made, and that the thread he of the size and quality mentioned. To meet any difficulty which might be found in procuring the materials, we have made arrangements for a constant supply from Paris, and are always able and happy to send them to our subscribers on receipt of tho amount in stamps. For six extra stamps a small specimen of the work will be added to tho materials. With every ign we publish the quantity required and tho NO. 4 NO. 3. price. In black (silk) mate- rials it is equally beautiful as in white, and better adap- ted for some purposes. Materials for One Yard of Lace shown above : Two knots of braid No. 13 ; two skeins of thread. — Price of materials and pos- tage, 9d. In black silk, 8 yards of braid and 8 yards of silk.— Price of ma- terials and postage, 2s. Id.; tracing on paper of one yard, 8d.; beginning, Is. extra. Trace the pattern upon blue paper, or cut out the design from the Number, and paste it upon thin calico. Tack the braid upon the paper, holding it rather loosely, as tho semi- transparency thus secured . much to the beauty of tho lace. Then run a very fine cotton through the whole length of the braid, care- fully keeping it inside the curves, crossing from ono edge of the braid to the other wherever the pattern demands it. The curves will then retain their exact shape when taken off the paper. When you come to a corner where the braid folds over a few extra stitches will be required to mako it neat and Arm. Then commence the edge, which consists only ot a looso buttonhole-stitch, with a tight one of tho same 80 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL kind in every loose one, so that the edge is entirely finished in one row. When you are edging the braid nearest to that already done, the bars must be intro- duced to connect them. This edge, with the bars, is also done in one row, thus : — Having arrived at a spot where a bar is to be made, carry the thread from the stitch you have just finished, and pass the needle through the stitch you desire to connect with it ; then, in returning, twist the thread two, three, or more times round the bar till the two threads form a little cable, and continue the edge you are working until it becomes necessary to mako another bar. When the braids so nearly touch as to leave no room for a bar, they should be joined by a herringbone-stitch. When the space is so large that it must be filled up with a network of bars, instead of passing the needle through an opposite stitch, pass it round the middle of a neighbouring bar, making a tight buttonhole- stitch upon the perfect bar to secure the one in pro- gress in its proper place. Several bars may bo made, when desired, by taking the single thread from bar to bar, or stitch to stitch, work the twisting round the already half-made bars as you return. To fasten off the thread, make half a stitch — that is, the loose buttonhole-stitch ; and then run the thread through the braid for half an inch and cut it off, then bring your new needleful through the braid at the point where you left off, leaving the knot at the back of the braid, and finish the stitch. The extra edge is only the same stitch as the ordinary edge, worked with three tight stitches instead of one. The little spot introduced in several places is made thus : — Make one bar across the space, and complete the second one (which crosses it) as far as the centre, where the two bars touch each other; then darn round, under one thread and over another, until the spot is large enough, then finish the twisting round of the imperfect bar. THE STITCHES USED IN LIMOGES POINT. The illustrations of the mode of making the stitches we think will render the work very simple for our readers. No. 2 shows the first loose buttonhole-stitch ; No. 3 the second or tight stitch, which makes the first secure ; and No. 4 the twisted bar. In working the tight stitch, No. 3, some beginners do not, draw the stitch tight enough. This may be done without drag- ging the braid by placing the thumb of the left hand upon the knot while drawing tight. EMBROIDERED OR DARNED NET. The design shown on the cover illustrates the beauty of this work. A number of most effective patterns can be worked in it. Upon black, white, or coloured silk net, worked with floss silk, they make a good imitation of blond. A tracing must be made on transparent linen or paper, and the net placed over it ; both tracing and net are next tacked upon toile ciree. The pattern is then worked in common darning-stitch. The insertions, if worked upon Brussels net with flossette, wash well, and are useful for placing over coloured ribbons as trimmings for dresses, fichus, &c. Some patterns are finished with pearl edges ; others are buttonholed ; occasionally lace stitches are intro- duced, which can be copied from those given in these Supplements. Materials Required for One Yard of Embroidered Net shown on Page 73: 1 yard net, two skeins flossette, 1£ yard pearl edge. — Price of materials, including postage, Is. ; tracing on transparent linen, from which any length may be worked, 6d. Mate- rials, tracing, and work begun, 2s. 6d. VENETIAN POINT. Venetian point is useful, strong, and suitable for many purposes, such as trimmings, collars, cravat- ends, &c. MATERIALS USED IN VENETIAN POINT. Venetian point should be worked upon Irish linen or embroidery muslin with nun's thread. Cotton a la croix is needed where there are raised patterns, to re- quire throwing up for effect, and fine crochet cotton DIRECTIONS FOR WORKING. The tracing upon linen is easily done by the use of copying-paper, which can be had of any stationer. Place the paper upon the linen, and the design over it, and mark over every part of the design with a stiletto or some other rather blunt point; the tracing will re- main upon the linen when the design is removed. When the tracing is ready, tack it upon a pieco of paper or toile ciree, to prevent puckerings in working ; run the outside edges with the crochet thread in small stitches, carefully observing the delicate turns of tho pattern; work over this thread in neat buttonhole- stitches, making the point-lace dotted bars as you go on, taking pains not to catch tin linen underneath. Where the linen is to be cut away inside the loaves, &C, a second buttonhole line must bo worked towards the part to be cut away to make a neat edge to work the point-lace stitches upon, which arc worked with linen thread like the buttonhole edge. Thick rounds must be first padded with soft em- broidery cotton to the necessary thickness, and then buttonholed. Take the work off the paper, and «ut away the linen from beneath the bars and from the inside of the leaves, pines, &c. ; then tack it on a fresh piece of paper, and work the point-lace stitches. TRIMMING : VENETIAN POINT. Materials for a Yard: Two skeins cotton a la croix No. 10, one skein nun's thread No. 2.— Price of ma- terials, including postage, and pattern traced upon muslin ready for working, Is. 9d. Materials, tracing, and work begun, including postage, 2s. 9d. DIRECTIONS FOR WASHING LACE. Lace is easily spoiled, both in washing and getting up, if not carefully managed. If the following rules arc observed, it will look equal to new after it has been washed many times : — Put two quarts of rain- water, 2 oz best yellow soap cwt very thin, and 2 oz soda into a jar ; when quite dissolved, put in the work, and place the jar in a cool oven, and let it stand all night. Take out the lace, and put into clear water, and let it remain for a few hours ; then take it out and pin out on a cloth or board to dry. If the lace r-equires to be rather stiff, dissolve in the rinsing-water a lump or two of white sugar. Starch should never be used. mmw m m ,£j HE MMTI OTM T® Til W8M-TAHX :irsTK,"U"CTioisrs IN POONAH PAINTING ON VELVET, SATIN, SILK, CARD, PAPER, OR WOOD, CONTAINING DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING AND VARNIShING FORMULAS, WITH ILLUSTRATED DIAGRAMS. Also Fall Instructions to enable Ladies, whether they have a knowledge of drawing or not, WO ^AINT 1LOWERS, FOLIAGE, @TC. INCLUDING A NEW COLOURED DESIGN, DAMASK ROSE AND FOLIAGE FOR PRACTICE. 82 THE YOUNG LADIES" JOURNAL DIAGRAM OF COLOURED DESIGN FOR DAMASK ROSE. DIRECTIONS FOR POONAH PAINTING ON VELVET, SATIN. SILK. &c. To make the directions for Poonah Painting as Useful and practical as possible, we have prepared £ Pamask Rose and Foliage in Oolunrs, as bein£ a simple design for a beginner to practise with. The diaorrams for formulas for the rose will also give a correct idea ot preparing a more complicated design, such as a group of flower3 like our Jun8 Roses, &c. COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 83 9?/°/ ^^W FORMULAS. TIig first thing is to prepare the formulas. For this, lay tracing-paper over the picture, and with a fine pencil trace every line, showing the shape of every leaf and stalk ; then numher every space which represents a leaf or stalk, taking care that leaves with the same numher upon them shall not be very close together. Choose a small part of two leaves nearly opposite each other, and mark them off for " Conducting Points." (See Diagram of Coloured Design.) When you have numbered every leaf, you will know how many Forms you will require for the group, and you must provide A3 many sheets of cartridge-paper, which you will number 1, 2, 3, &c. Now take cartridge- sheet No. 1, and lay over it a piece of carbonized paper the same size, and over both lay the trac- ing ; take an ivory stiletto, or other blunt-pointed instrument, and with it go over the outline of each leaf, &c, which is marked No. 1 on Dia- gram of Coloured Design. Repeat this process with each of the succeeding Forms. The Con- ducting Points must be put in every Form, as they are the only guides for keeping each Form in its right place ; they do not show, as such, in Diagram No. 1, because they are parts of the leaves which are cut in that Form. See that you have a sufficient number of Forms, that the parts 84 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL cut out may be at a convenient distance from each other, that in using the colours they may not run into each other, and also that the Forms may not be weakened by being cut too much in one part. Leaves and flowers of various colours may be cut in the same Form, provided the different colours be far enough apart not to interfere with each other. Each green leaf (except very small ones) must be cut in two Forms — that is, one side of it in one Form and one in another, by which means the space is divided so as to get a line for the middle vein. A small and very sharp pair of scissors must be used for cutting the apertures in the Forms.* The instructions here given are abso- lutely carried out in the Diagram of Coloured Design, and in the Diagrams of Formulas Nos. 1 to 5. When the diagrams have been traced and cut, they must be varnished twice over. TO MAKE THE VARNISH. 1 oz. resin, 1 oa. shellac, 4 oz. methylated spirit. Break the resin and shellac up small, and put them with the spirit into a bottle; shake frequently, and the varnish will be ready for use in two days. This varnish will so strengthen the cartridge- paper that the Forms will last for years, and, by wiping them after use with a damp sponge, you may remove the colour which has accumulated COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 85 k°3 x upon them during the process, so that in repro- ducing the group many variations may be made in the colours used. If the cartridge-paper is sufficiently sized by the maker, it will take the varnish. This should be tested previous to cutting the formulas. If insufficiently sized, it will be necessary to purchase some size. Dilute it, and brush over both sides of the paper with it. MIXING COLOURS. A. ix the powder colour and a little water to per- fect smoothness with a palette-knife. All shades of green for foliage may be produced by mixing Prussian blue and gamboge (gamboge cannot be powdered), with sometimes a little burnt siennn. and sometimes a little carmine, one or other of the colours predominating according to the shade of green wanted. Beautiful varieties of gray may be made by mixing infinitesimal quantities of many colours with plenty of Chinese white. In a general way, water alone is sufficient with which to mix the colours; but when pure scarlet and Chinese white are used, they must be mixed with weak gum-water, or they are apt to rub after they are dry. Whenever pure scarlet is used as a grounding colour (as in scarlet geraniums, &c), it should be shaded with carmine. For very dark red flowers, mix a little black with red for the intense shading. Bl THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL fy>U> *v*~4 tt\) POONAH PAINTING ON VELVET. Place the Form upon the velvet, or other groundwork to be ornamented, using- paper- weights, or anything small, heavy, and smooth, to keep it steadv. The brush, which is made ex- Eressly for this work, has no point, and is to be eld perpendicularly, the colour being gently rubbed in by moving the brush round and round. The brush should be only just moistened equally all &over with the colour, and then applied to the aperture in the Form, and the colour worked into the velvet, close up to the edges of the opening in the Form, so as to ensure the exact shape upon the velvet. A brush must be devoted to each colour. The two small apertures nearly opposite each other, which occur in every Form, are called " Conducting Points," which, having been painted through Form No. 1, will show through the cor- responding apertures of Forms Nos. 2, 8, &c, and if these are made to fit exactly, all the other parts of the picture will lit too. When all the parts in one Form are finished, the succeeding Forms will covor up the parts done, and open new spaces to be painted. All stalks and touches which are too fine to be intro- duced into the Forms must be put in with a small sable brush. As the picture can only be produced upon the groundwork by successive shades of colour, let the first ehade be always of the palest tint in the leaf ; COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE 37 & %S J< X SD with it fill the whole of the aperture, then the darker shades may be worked over it, one after the other, in their proper places, according- to the copy. If painting on velvet, it is best to finish each leaf as you go on, because, after the first shade is washed in, the velvet will take the suc- ceeding shades better while still damp. « In leaves, more especially the larger sorts, with strongly-marked veins, the veins and shading are produced by the aid of veining papers, which are made by cutting one edge of a piece of varnished paper to the shape of the vein, and laying it over the aperture in the place where the vein should be, after the Form is laid upon the velvet, begin- ning with a shade not much darker than the lightest, and this should be carried to the very end of the vein, but not quite to the edge of the leaf, the darker shades receding more and more towards the darkest part of the leaf, then work- ing in the darker shade used for the vein upon the little veining paper, just letting one edge of the brush touch the velvet ; this will make the veip very quickly, and produce a soft and beautiful effect ; more and more shade can be put on accord- ing to the colour of the leaf, always beginning to work the colour in at the darkest point. When we supply Forms, pieces of varnished paper for this purpose accompany each set requir- ing them. Though the Forms are numbered 1, 2, 3, &c, it is not at all necessary to observe their H 88 order, so long as care is taken to paint the " Con- ducting Points" first of all. The delicacy of t'ae velvet may, in some in- stances, he considered a drawback, but this objec- tion may be successfully obviated. , Those accustomed to laying ferns upon white wood, and sprinkling in the shadow, will under- stand how very beautiful and more permanently useful these pictures may be made by that pro- cess after the velvet is soiled by wear. The process consists in mixing a good quantity of colour, and after dipping in a tooth-brush, take the brush thus charged with colour in the left hand, and holding a knife in the right hand, draw the blade over the bristles of the brush away from the velvet, having previously covered the picture by a Form made on purpose. The shade should be put on very sparingly next the lowers, and increased in depth towards the edge tf the velvet. All the small spaces among the .eaves in the middle of the picture may be easily and quickly dotted in afterwards with the finish- ing sable. Black, indigo, or brown make excellent shading. The price of the Form and the colour (whichever is preferred) for shading, must be in accordance with the size of the group. THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL. POONAH PAINTING UPON PAPEK. The process must be slightly varied ; the brush must be as nearly dry as possible when applied to the surface, and after each application the paper must be allowed to get quite dry before you touch the same spot again. If you are in any doubt about the proper dryness of the brush, it is a good plan to begin each application, after washing in the first shade, by dabbing the brush gently straight down upon the paper ; the result of this action will be a number of minute dots. If you,^ by this means, find the brush is in proper condition, you may then rub the colour in, or the picture may be finished with the dotting process, which has a very pleasing effect, provided the dots be very small, and each succeeding shade very slightly darker than the last ; thus the shades may be made to blend as beautifully as if rubbed in. can naturally be, will spoil the effect of the colours. The dotting process is particularly ap- plicable to wood-painting, because the rubbing is apt to disturb the grounding of Chinese white. Many useful and pretty articles are made in white wood for the purpose of being ornamented with floral designs, such as boxes, hand-screens, &c, and even a plain deal gipsy table, which any country carpenter can make, looks exceedingly well when painted, and it can be easily varnished with best copal varnish, which before being applied should be warmed, as well as the brush, and the saucer into which it is poured. Fill the brush with varnish, and beginning at the top, take a firm, straight, and rather quick stroke down- wards, the way of the grain ; begin every stroke at the top, and never take the brush off until it reaches the bottom. When you have gone over all the surface, let it remain for two days (out of the way of dust) to get dry, when it will require a second coat of varnish. PREPAKATIONS FOR POONAII PAINTING ON WOOD. In Poonah Painting upon wood it is necessary first to cover every part which is to be painted with Chinese white mixed with gum-water, and laid on rather thickly; and upon this prepared white surface the colours will preserve their own proper hue, but unless this is done the tint of the wood, although it may be as near white as wood DIRECTIONS FOR PAINTING UPON SILK OR SATIN OF LIGHT SHADES. When the colour of the ground to be painted upon does not accord with the colours of the flowers, the first wash of each colour must be mixed with a little Chinese white and gum- water, so a3 effectually to hide the ground ; the darker shades may afterwards be worked in with the pure colour. In some cases Chinese white is not required for the leaves, as on a pale blue ground ; they need only be made a little yellower, as blue is a part of green ; a yellow ground will take green in the same way, adding a little more blue. In this case all flowers but blue will require the first shade of colour to be mixed with Chinese white. Formulas and copies can be had of the follow- ing and other designs : Dahlia Group 12 by 11 inch. Tulip Group 11 „ 11 „ Summer Flowers 14 „ 14 „ Convolvulus C „ 6 „ Iris 6 „ 4 v Coral-Pink Geranium .... 8 „ „ Wild Rose . 5 „ 5 „ Azalea 7 » » Primula and Solanium . . 7 „ 7 „ Geranium Fuchsia . . . . -\ Yellow Jasmine and> 7 „ 7 .. Yellow Rose / Simple Pink Rose 5 „ 5 , ; Cross with Roses 11 H 8 ir Spray of Damask Roses . , 8%„ 4£ v 1 HlM *£^* ; *.»!>*V M -""■a^W^'VwA'..' i* ••• i inft»~fy*^i 7 a ^J«» miM T@ Til W8M-TAM. KNOTTING OR MACRAME. FRINGE IN TWO COLOURS. KNOTTING OR JBUL -A. O R, A. ML JE3 . DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATION ON PAGE 89. • FRINGE OF TWO COLOURS. This fringe is worked with twenty-four strands of one colour, and eight of the other. They are put over a single leading bar, and knotted as shown in No. 4. A second bar is then laid on close to the first, and the strands are worked closely over it (see No. 5, in progress and finished). The slanting bars are shown in progress in Nos. 7 and 8. They are ar- ranged to form a square at the top, and two bars worked closely with spaces, alternating for six times, then £he second square. The work must be continued row by row. After beginning with the square of bars of the dark colour work a lino of six Solomon knots with the light colour, then a second square of bars with the dark, continue for the length of the cushion. For the second and following lines work the bars "Yer the first and second outer strands of the light colour, and then five Solomon knots with the light colour. In this row the light colour is worked once between the bars. After this explanation we think it will be easier to work from the design than from description. The raised circular balls, forming the diamond in the centre of the bar diamond, are worked with four Solomon knots, after finishing which, take the two centre strands, pass them together between the second and third strands at the top of the knot, and draw them down at the back, and work one Solomon knot ; when the heading is worked the threads must be strongly tied together at the bottom, to form a loop in which to pass the tassel strands through, which are afterwards bound round with a needle and thread; the thread is wound evenly round five or six times, and tho needle is passed from the top to the bottom to fasten it. COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. Gl KNOTTING OR MACRAME. .i.«— -p *cs&rtfT£r vr— Kr.ottiaj or maerame work has recently revived in interest, therefore we repeat our elementary directions which were produced some years since, but have long been out of print. To those directions we add very considerably, in order to make the working of the various designs as simple to our readers as they can be made. The origin of knotting is very remote. A book of designs was printed in Venice as long ago as 1530 ; it was then known as punto a gruppo, or gruppino. In Italy it was used for trimming priests' vestments. The name maerame' was given to the work by the Genoese, who employed it for trimming bridal-dresses. The word maerame comes from an Arabian word which signifies a large serviette or cloth, which had a fringed border. Our English name knotting is the more correct one, as the work is formed entirely by knots in varied groupings. TOOLS REQUIRED. The lead cushion is tho first thing. Our design shows a German cushion for tho purpose; we, how- ever, prefer to use one without a handle. The cushion may be fitted into a box. The box should be 15 inches long and 4 inches in height, and 5 inches in width ; it should havo a lead weight running tho entire length not less than f inch in thickness. The box can be covered with Berlin work or an embroidered band. The lead must bo enclosed by a cushion filled with bran, and covered with a piece of satin or velvet, or even better, a piece of good, finely-striped ticking. The covering should be a fast colour, so that the dye does not come off to soil the work. The cushion should be fully 2 inches above the wooden box, in order that tho leaders may be easily fixed to it. If it is not easy to get lead for the cushion to fill it with sand is the next best thing. GLASS-HEADED PINS. > Two sizes of these pins may bo procured for knot- ting. They are very convenient to use, as the large heads prevent the loops from slipping. STEEL CROCHET HOOKS. The crochet hook is ofton very convenient for draw- ing the knots through ; these must be chosen of a size to suit the material to be worked with. A sharp pair of scissors will be found needful for cutting the lengths evenly. MATERIALS. Macrame cords are now to be had in several sizes both in plain and mixed colours. Crochet cotton, linen thread, silk twist or cord, and gold and silver thread, are all suitable materials for knotting, and make more or less elegant fringes, laces, insertions, and headings for trimming articles of dress, furniture, and fancy-work. Knotting can be worked into linen, &c, by drawing the threads intended to be made into laco or fringe through the material, and looping once ; the material can then be fixed to the lead cushion, and the threads knotted. Java canvas and crash, or strong Irish linen or huckaback, may bo ornamented with knotting by drawing the threads one way out, and leaving the others to be knotted. GENERAL HINTS. The great beauty of knotting rests in the evenness of the work, and as no tracing or outline of any kind can be used, clever manipulation is needed and cor- rect distances must be kept ;. these can only be mea- THE YOUNG LADIES'* JOURNAL H& ig, • V .'. J« W>. 14. NO. II. COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WOEK-TABLE. 7a, 7b. 7*. 93 NO. 12. 7 shows the changed position of the threads after working the first knot of rib ; 1c shows the first slanting rib finished, and the position of threads after the first knot of second rib. No. 8. — SLANTING RIB IN PROGRESS FROM RIGHT TO LEFT. Now tho worker must give attention to 8a, which shows tho first looping and position of threads after it ; 8b shows the first looping and making of the first knot ; 8c a finished rib ; 8d second rib in progress. No amount of directions that we can give could by any possibility be so clear to tho reader as these num- bered positions of the threads. It is generally considered that it is easier to learn to make the knotted ribs from the right towards tho left, as it is the more natural way of working. No. 9. — HEADING - RIBS AND DIAMONDS FINISHED AND IN PROGRESS. This diagram will materially assist the worker in executing fringe No. 1. as it is here shown in an in- creased size with the scallops in progress. Observe the length of threads left to form diamonds between tho slanting ribs, also the knots finishing the diamonds before beginning two other slanting ribs. No. 10.— RIBS WITH EIGHT STRANDS AND DIA- MOND CENTRE, WITH TRIANGLE SIDE FORMED OF SOLOMON KNOTS. Nos. 11, 12, 13, and 14.— SPHERICAL KNOT. The spherical knot placed singly or in triangles, and diamonds between slanting ribs, gives a rich heading to a fringe. It is begun with a flat Solomon knot, for which four strands aro needed, the two centre strands hang straight, the right-hand thread is crossed hori- zontally over tho two centre strands and under the left-hand strand. Tho left thread is crossed under tho two centre strands and over tho right-hand strand. The two centre strands are now drawn through to form the centre of spherical knot, and a pin is passed through tho knot into the cushion (see No. 11). To complete tho k^ot (see Jfa. 13) PASS tho left-hand COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. thread over the two centre strands and under the right strand, and the right-hand strand under the two centre strands and over the left-hand strand; draw up. No. 13 shows a spherical knot with two Solomon knots worked under; No. 14 shows it with but one above and below. The irregular placing of the diagrams is unavoid- able because we are obliged to keep our Work-table Guide Supplements to one size on account of binding thorn. Nos. 15, 16, and 24.— HIGH KNOT WORKED WITH EIGHT STRANDS. This knot is composed of a Solomon knot at the top and bottom of two single chain together, worked with six strands. No. 17.— CROSS KNOT FOR OPEN DIAMONDS. This knot will only show well in coarso materials. Begin with two Solomon knots, as shown on the right - hand side ; the centre and left strands show two finished cross knots, and the figures the mode of dividing the strands to form open dia- monds. After working the two Solomon knots cross the right - hand thread under the two cen- tre threads. The left-hand thread over the three strands, then pass it at the back through to the front between the top of the first and second strands, and work the right-hand thread in the same way through the top of third and fourth strands. Now cross the outer strands, slanting over the front of the knot, and pass them through tho loop below the knot on each side. Begin again as shown in lower part of diagram. No. 18.— SPIRAL COED. This cord can be made with any required number of centre strands, and is always worked with tho two outer side strands. Take the right-hand strand, pass it behind tho centre strands and over the left-hand strand ; take the left-hand strand and put it over the centre strands and under tho right-hand strand, draw tight and repeat. No. 19.— FRINGE, AVITH DOUBLE KNOT HEADING. Double loops are taken as described for the begin- ning of No. 17, and are formed into the open knot by working Solomon knots with two threads taken from each side alternately. This heading may bo made of whatever depth yeu please. No. 20.— WAVED BAR. This bar is formed of four strands ; five singles are knotted over two strands in succession with tho loft- hand thread, then five singles with the right-hand thread alternately. No. 21.— FRINGE FOR JAVA CANVAS. Talco eight threads, work two slanting ribs of six knots each ; cross all tho threads with a Solomon knot worked with two threads of the canvas. Be careful to obsorve the corroct distances, and work tho Kecond line of pattern alternating tho thro Nos. 22 and 23.— PICOT HEADING. The first diagram shows the mode of pinning on strands to form a picot heading. Two strands .are fas- tened by a pin to the cushion ; two or more Solomon- knots are worked according to tho height of tho heading. No. 23 shows picot heading with the lead- ing bar laid on, and the threads of tho picots knotted round it. No. 24— See No. 15. No. 25.— WAVED LOOP. The loop is composed of four strands, macrame knots worked with three strands : and three the right- hand strand is left hanging until the third knot is worked, when it is used with the other three strands to form the Solomon knot closing the groups. No. 26.— SIMPLE CHAIN. Begin with a Solomon knot with the two centre threads ; work with the right-hand thread a singlo chain over the left, then with the left-hand thread a a single chain over the right. This is sometimes used in fringes. No. 27.— LEADING BAR WORKED OVER WITH SOLOMON KNOTS. Two strands of the length for tho work must bo pinned through tho middle for the bar, two working threads are required which must bo three times tho length of bar, with these cover the bar with Solomon knots, then draw strands through each of two loops, pass over two and repeat, work each group with four Solomon knots. Nos. 28 axd 30.— KNOTTED HEADING OF FRINGED THREADS. This is useful for serviette, dinner-waggon cloths, &c. Separate the threads in six strands, pass the second right-hand strand round the left and draw it out between tho two. The second tie is like the first part of a Solomon's knot, tie the third and fourth strand as described for tho first and second, alternate tho strands and tie in tho same way in the second and following rows. No. 29.— FRINGE FOR KNITTED PANES, &c. COUNTER- Tho edge of the counterpane is shown, through this tho loops to work the strands into, must be drawn, passing over two stitches of the knitting draw up a single knot and leave the loop the length shown in the design, draw through every loop with double strands fastened as described in No. 4. In every fourth loop draw through a double strand without knotting it (see design). Observe, two strands of this sjroup are left unworked; work a row of two Solomon knots together with two alternate strands from each cluster. In tho next row two clusters of two Solomon knots, and in the third one Solomon knot to finish the scallop, twenty strands are knotted together once fo" the fringe. Jro.SQ,-SonNo.28, "3W THE YOUNG LADIES' JOUKNAL xo. .-?- ... ^jTHE, miM T® Til WS1K-TABK. TATTING f A T W ■ 5* Do THE YOUNG- LADIES' JOURNAL DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIONS ON PAGE 97. -*»*«*e*«-" WORK-BASKET ORNAMENTED WITS TATT1 The basket is of gilded wicker and is square in shape; it is lined with peacock-blue satin, which is drawn up to form a bag-like top ; each side is orna- mented with a deep-pointed drapery composed of tatted rosettes, one of which is shown in the second illustration of cover in the full size. The foun- dation for the rosette is a small steel ring mea- suring half an inch in width; with peacock - bine Berlin wool crochet twenty-four trebles under the ring, join round, and fasten off. Fill a tatting shuttle with the wool, work four double knots, fivo picots separated by one double knot, four double knots close, draw the wool through the top of one of the trebles, and repeat; work twelve closed eyes, passing over one of the trebles each time, join to tho preceding closed eyes by drawing the wool through the jv.-'i> COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 101 NO. 14. NO. IJ. HO. i0. ^-w** 102 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL severed in. Our illustrations render it as clear as any explanation can do. Hold the shuttle between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand lightly, hold the thread between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, leaving the end about six inches long; pass the end downwards towards the palm, and the loop round the second and third fingers (see No. 3), hold the threads tightly, keeping "the right hand lower than the left. No. 4- shows the passing of the shuttle to form the first knot (1 and 2 in diagram). No. 4 also shows the thread held between the forefinger and thumb of the left hand ; 3 and 4- of this diagram show the anglo at which the thread is held over the third and fourth fingers of the left hand, the dotted line showing the way the shuttle is moved under the thread held out by the second and third fingers of the left hand ; pass the shuttle towai-ds the back of the left hand, and downwards to the front, between the thread held over the left hand-fingers and the loop formed by the thread held over the right-hand fingers, indicated by the V. The mode of working the second half of the stitch is clearly shown in No. 5. The shuttle is passed over tho thread from the back to the front, and brought out between the thread on tho fingers of the left hand and the shuttle thread ; the loop above 2 shows the first half of the knot worked. The position of fingers, shuttle, and thread is clearly shown in Nos. 6 and 7. No. 7 shows the raising of the finger to draw up the knot, which must slip easily. No. 8 shows the movement of the fingers in drawing up the knot. No. 9 shows knots with picots previously to drawing up for a closed eye. No. 10 shows the closing of an eye without picots. TO MAKE A PICOT. Leave a loop of thread between the double knots, the length of which you must regulate according to the design you are working to. No. 11.— JOSEPHINE KNOT. This is a pretty knot for filling up bars and patterns that would look rather poor with the straight thread only. The Josephine knot is formed by working four or five loops of the first stitch of a double knot succes- sively and drawing up. The space between the Josephine knots being regulated according to design. No. 22 illustrates the use of the Josephine knot. Nos. 13 to ac.— MODE OF TATTING WITH TWO SHUTTLES. In ordor to form eyes close or open, only one shuttle is required ; but when a half-circle, &c, is to be added to the eyes, a second throad will bo No. 12.— SIMPLE EDGING. Work three double knots, five picots separated by two double knots, three double knots close. Leave the loop the length shown in No. 12, and repeat tho pattern, working through the first picot of each pat- tern ; this is done by drawing the thread that is over the first finger with a pin or crochet hook through the f ^ot, and passing the shuttle through the loop drawn tiirough, when you continue to work as usual. The pulling through of the loop is shown plainly in our illustration. necessary, and must be used in the following manner; Lay a separate thread as a loop round the left hand, and work the knots with the shuttle thread. If tha pattern require the knots to be worked with the threads alternately, both threads must be wound upon shuttles. It must be remembered that in working a half-circle with two threads, the shuttle thread (tho thread with which the knots are made) must lie between tho two threads of the loop, so that the end of the thread laid round the hand hangs down free in front, only held by the thumb of the left hand. By this means an open plain line of knots is formed. No. 13 shows closed eyes and half-circles worked with a second colour. Ho. 14 shows the same design and the mode of work- ing the closed eyo in progress with one thread only. The second thread being taken up after the eye is closed to continue the half-circles. In working with two threads, it must always be remembered that the scallops just finished should turn downwards. No. 15 shows another mode of work- ing with two threads. In this case, the helping thread laid round the left hand must have its two ends firmly held through the shuttle thread ; and the latter must lie in front of tho two ends of the loop (the thread round the left hand). The firmly held ends, before the loop of the shuttle thread is drawn together, must be drawn through the loop from the upper part down- wards, so that tho threads look twisted. No. 16.— TATTED EDGING WITH BEADS. Beads are tatted upon silk, or silver or gold thread ; the beads must first bo threaded upon tho silk, and tho silk wound on to a piece of card ; tie the end of the silk with the beads to tho end of shuttle thread, work three double knots, pull up a bead, put the thread with tho beads to the back of the work, one double knot, put the bead thread to the front of the work, work another double knot, four more beads separated by two double knots, three double knots, close. Tho closed eyes worked alternately on each side will form a pretty trimming. No. 17.— TATTED ROSETTE IN PROGRESS. Work a closed eye for tho centre of eight picots separated by two double knots ; without cutting off the thread commence tho outer row. Draw the thread through the first picot, leave about a quarter of an inch of thread, work four double knots, five picots separated by two double knots, four double knots, close, draw the thread in a loop through the next picot, pass tho shuttle through the loop, draw up tightly, and repeat, working eight closed eyes to com- plete the rosette; to join the closed eyes draw through the last picot of last closed eye alter working the fourth double knot of next closed eye. No. 18. -INSERTION: TATTING, MIGNARDISE, AND LACE STITCHES. Material Required : Cotton No. 20. Work five double knots, one picot, six double knots, one picot, five double knots, draw through a picot of mignardise, then close, pass the cotton through the picot at the side of closed eye. Before working the next closed eye, which is worked the same as the last, pass the cotton through the side picot, work ten double knots, one picot, ten double knots close; leave SHMa COMPLETE GUIDE TO TEE WORK-TABLE. 103 half an inch of cotton before commencing the next eye. Work five double knots, draw the cotton through the picot of second eye, six double knots, one picot, four dcuble knots close ; leave about half an inch of cotton before commencing the next eve. Work five double knots, draw the cotton over the half inch left before commencing the eye, six double knots, one picot, five double knots, pass over four pi cots of mi- gnardise, draw through the next, and close the eye. Take another length of mignardise, work a row upon it like the last, with this exception, that instead of working the third closed eye you draw the cotton through the centre picot of closed eye of last row (see design), and continue as described. The spun- stitch in the centre is worked with a needle and cot- ten as in laca work. No. 19.— TATTED EDGING. i No. 19 is worked with two threads. For the large scal- lops, work four double knots, one picot, eight double knots, one picot, four doublo knots. After finishing each scallop, place the thread from the separate reel round the hand, and work from that with the shuttle thread four double knots, one picot, four double knots round the thread of the shuttle. In the picots of the joining scallops, crochet one single in each picot, then five chain for the edge. No. 20.— EDGING WITH TWO THREADS. For the closed eyes work twelve double knots, one picot, twelve double knots, close, work another closed eye close to this last, leavo rather more than half an inch of cotton, and repeat for length required. 2nd Row : Pass the helping thread through the picot of first closed eye, fasten it, * three double knots, fivo picots separated by two double knots, three doublo knots, draw through two picots of closed eyes together. Repeat from *. No. 21.— TATTED SQUARE. Begin the square in the centre, and work the four leaves, each consisting of ten double knots, one picot, ton doublo knots. Fasten the thread, and loop it again on to the picot of a leaf, and work the eye, consisting of seven double knots, five picots separated by three double knots, seven double knots ; draw them toge- ther, fasten tho thread again to the picot at the start- ing-point; then work the large scallop lying to the left ; eight double knots, fi^o picots separated by 1 1 double knots, eight doublo knots- Leave the scallops sufficiently open, so that after tho tnread is fastened to the next leaf of the middle group the thread lying across may be tight without dragging. Repeat. 3rd Row : Work one Josephine knot, one closed eye as described for first row, ten double knots, one picot, ten double knots, close, one Josephine knot, draw the thiead of Josephine knot through the picot at the top of last worked closed eye, pass the shuttle through the loop to make it firm, work the second closed eyo as last described ; continue the row by working three small closed eyes, each separated by two Josephine knots. 4th Row : One Josephine knot, two large closed eyes as described in last row, join to the thread between the two large closed eyes of previous row, one Jose- phine knot, two small closed eyes separated by two Josephine knots. Repeat for length required, then repeat from first row, joining according to illustra- tion. No. 22.— DESIGN FOR SQUARE DOTLYS. FIN- CUSHION, &c. 1st Row: Work ono Josephine knot (of six first stitches), three double knots, three picots separated by two double knots and three double knots, close, one Josephine knot. Repeat for the length required. 2nd Row : Work as for first row, but join the top picot by passing it through the thread between two Josephine knots^ No. 23.— TATTED ROSETTE. Begin this rosette from the middle with a ring of eight picots separated by two double knots. Fasten the thread, and, without cutting it off, begin the second row, viz., the little eyes joining the picots of the ring, including the joining scallops, which must have a picot in tho middle to fasten them to the outer row. Now work with two threads. Each of the eyes worked with the shuttle alone contain twelve double knots, and are joined to a picot of the ring between tho sixth and seventh double knots. For the joining scal- lops, place tho second thread as a loop round the left hand, and work six double knots, one picot.. six double knots. At the end of the row tie the beginning and end threads together, and begin the third low likewise with two threads, one of which must be looped on to the joining scallop. With the other thread alone work the eye lying above, containing six double knots, one picot, six double knots. Now lay the thread from this eye as a loop round the left hand, and work with the half of tho tied-on thread the joining scallop, con- sisting of five double knots and three picots separated by three doublo knots, then five doublo knots. Fasten the thiead running through the finished line of knots again on to the picot of the next joining- scallop of tho preceding row, working the eye with the other thread, and so on. At the end of the row fasten off the thread securely and carefully. Nos. 24 and 25.— INSERTION AND TRIMMING IN TATTING AND CROCHET. With the first shuttle work a scallop of four double knots, ono picot, four doublo knots, one picot, four doublo knots, ono picot, four double knots. Then lay the second thread (from a separate reel) as a loop round the hand, and work close to the finished scallop with the first shuttle, four double knots, one picot, and again four double knots, which aro tied with the loose thread round tho thread coming from the shuttle. Re- peat. The first picot of each scallop must, however, bo joined in tho usual manner to the last picot of the preceding scallop. At the recond lino the middle picot of each scallop must be joined to the middle picot of a scallop of the preceding line. For the insertion shown in No. 24 crochet in each outer edge of the tatted trimming as follows : — 1st Row : One single, four chain in the nearest picot, one single in the second of these, so as to form a little scallop, one chain. Repeat. 2nd Row : One doublo in the middle stitch of each scallop of the preceding row, four chain. Repeat. W .-V 104 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL. NO. tS. NO, CD, 170, 31. NO. »2- NO. 24. NO. 2j. TO WASH TATTING. Fine tatting needs care in washing and must not be rubbed. The best plan is to sew a piece of flannel of two or three thicknesses over a bottle, tack the tatting upon it, make a lather of curd soap and water, and lift the bottle up and down in it, working the lather well into the tatting with the hand ; then, when it appears clean, boil it in a saucepan of curd soap and water, with a dash of blue in it, for about twenty minutes ; rinse in clear water several times, remove the tatting from th* bottle, rinse in water with a / lump of sugar in it, and pin it out to dry, putting a j pin into every picot if you are very careful about ii ; if not, pull it well into shape, and put the right side of the tatting towards the blanket with a piece of fine rag over it a little damp, and iron, after- wards pull out the picots with a pin. Coarse tatting, such as antimacassars, should be laid in a lather of cold soap and water for a few hours, then squeezed out and put it into another cold clean lather in a sauce- pan and let it come to the boil, then rinse it and lay if in some blue water ; when nearly dry pull into shape v and iron as describod for fine tatting. wwmm mmim mim « tii wsbk-table DRAWN THREAD WORK, &C. BORDER : DRAWN THREAD AND RETICELLA-"WORK. 106 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATION ON PAGE 105. BORDER : DRAWN THREADS AND RETICELLA WORK. The design is suitable for ornamenting sideboard and dinner -waggon cloths. It is more effective worked on rather coarse Irish linen, which should be of good quality to ensure an even make. The pattern should be traced upon the linen, the threads for tho open parts cut entirely away (see the right- hand side lower part of design where the reticella comes in). For these stitches only ordinary sowing over and buttonhole - stitches are employed. The crosses in centre of circles are formed by stretching bars of thread across and sewing over. For the drawn-thread work, the straight lines next the border are worked at a slight angle over four or more threads, according to the quality of the linen. The mode of working the next line of pattern ks ordi- nary Italian-stitch, or a square formed by four back- stitches. In this design the threads must not bo cut away too much in the centre because it is necessary to sew over some of them to strengthen the work. The bars are worked over six threads. Very sharp scissors must be used to ensure an even edge. Nun's thread (No. 1) will bo the best for working both the reticella and drawn-thread work. COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE 10? DRAWN THREAD WORK or POINT COUPE INTRODUCTION. This work dates very far back ; it is among; the earliest attempts at ornamental work known. Some beautiful and very old specimens have been shown in both English and foreign museums. Irish linen, linen thread, a sharp pair of scissors, and a needlo with a good eye, such as Walker's elliptic, will be needed for the work. The old work is frequently found in white linen, worked with gold, yellow, scarlet, or blue silk. Patterns more or less elaborate may be found in it, and it is very frequently accompanied by borders of re-ticella or Greek lace, which have for their founda- tions drawn threads. Very fine specimens of drawn work, having the effect of Honiton sprays on a net foundation, can be made ; but the work is of a character so undesirable, on account of injury to the sight, and requires, besides, so much time and patience, that wo consider it unsuited to the age wo live in, and do not therefore illustrate it. It is always well in fancy work to get a knowledge of detail before beginning elaborate pat- terns ; if this is not observed, the work is sure to be unsatisfactory, and is often thrown aside in con- quence. worked, then the cross threads are worked. The arrows indicate the way the needle should be put in. Nos. 1 to 5.— SIMPLE DESIGN IN DRAWN- THREAD WORK. Make a careful inspection of the way in which No. 1 is traced, running out with fine cotton ; next observe the mode of drawing the threads and cutting them. See to the sharp and clear cutting of the threads, as that is one of the most important things to attend to in beginning. The square openings are formed by drawing four threads each way. Nos. 2 to 5 show the stitches in progress. Two stitches being needed on each of the bars, and a cross-stitch at each corner, one straight stitch is first worked, then one half of a cross-stitch (see No. 1) ; the second straight stitch is i'ormed when placing tho needle for the second half of a cross-stitch, and the needle is left in place for tho downward bar of square (seo Nos. 3 and 4). No. 5 shows tho mode of continuing the sewing over. Care should bo taken not to draw the thread too tightly and to keep the work even. No. 6.— CANE PATTERN. This pattern is used for a groundwork ; Java can- vas is the most effective material for it ; two threads only are drawn crosswise and four lengthwise. In working over, tho threads are somewhat drawn toge- ther; thread, silk, or crewel may bo used for working the pattern; all the upright stitches should firsi Nos. 7 anu 3.— INSERTION OR STRIPE FOR ENDS OF TOWELS, &c. No. 8 shows the design of circles and bars, and No. 7 the mode of executing the two patterns employed in the design. Three double strands of Java canvas aro drawn each way ; tho dark parts of tho design aro worked in the same way as illustrations No. 2 to 5 ; the light parts are worked in point de reprise or darn- ing-stitch with a second colour. The mode of working is very clearly shown in No. 7. No. 9.-PORDER : INTERLACED WORK. This border has a Java canvas foundation, but is equally suited to finer materials. Three-quarters of an inch of threads must be drawn one way. The warp threads are the best to draw, as the selvedgo is strengthening to the work to leave on, and hem down or sew to the material to be ornamented. None of the weft threads are drawn, they are counted and evenly divided by working over in divisions of four ; a slanting stitch is sewn into the undrawn edge, tho needle is then put round the threads, as shown in No. 12; twelve of these stitches are worked for the short bars ; tho mode of interlacing is shown in No. 12. Tho thread is then carried on and twisted round the threads that form the first half of the centre pattern ; fasten with one buttonhole-stitch exactly half way down, twist the thread round the same bar of threads to get it into place to work the lower twelve stitches of tho same bar, four of these bars form the inter- lacing ; work one slanting stitch into tho edge, and continue the interlaced stitches in the way shown in No. 12, working your pattern from No. 9. The littlo dots on the plain part of the material are worked in satin-stitch. Nos. 10, 12, 13, and 15.— BORDERS. The finished border is shown in No. 15. The mode of working the two edges is shown in an increased size in No. 12. These edges will be more easy to work from No. 12 than from description. The principle of working over the foundation threads, after they are drawn for the centro pattern, is shown in detail in an increased sizo in No. 10. Tho appearance of the de- sign would at first give an idea that it is formed of guipure netting. The centre stars are shown in every detail of the work in No. 13 ; they are worked iu twisted bars and darning-stitches; the twisted bars forming the foundation of tho work arc distinctly :■>< THE YOUNG LADIES" JOURNAL HO, 3. NO. 3- NO. 4, COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WOEK-TABLE. 109 NO. 6. : fr± Wk\ y» , ara : B j\ J| j :«f ■ *j=s irMffRl Lin- : ± j'rirrt [I ' 1 - , il ILJ^jL. ''■WE^ 1 Em* ^SsCT t fljL ijl, f '" -ie 7 ' f-Mr Kg3 jL [JIUla ^ ^^3§|{i|igE^ IE d£f Fffil $H$ ifi'hf S3 ■■csS ] llffi NO. 5 >>'0. 7. JT9, F" 35* n.i THE YOUNG LAD1KS' JOURNAL. i I . i 311 D lip i i ~ ! i i Ql ! giiQ'l OC I i Q I ICI IQfl! ! I Sip rift i gHlOlDllQlQlilmjr rj^'jOiyi'iijlpiQtpiJpiiiyiiiigi i; : KSfif SiPffiQlfliQlQlO 1 !:®; ; ; fj ;;jf HO. 14. ko. 15. no. 10. NO. 18, HO. 17. ■■■■jiaBBUMnnBam cmi^BS^HHH^^IK^ COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. Ill shown in No. 10, with the way they are fastened round tho drawn threads to form the groundwork of the squares. No. It. — BORDER IN PYRAMID, CROSS, AND ARMENIAN STITCHES. This border i.s shown on Java, canvas, and consists of drawings half an inch in depth, and of two threads' between four threads twice, leave eight threads, and draw an inch and a quarter for the broad part of the design. The interlaced stitches ore worked as shown in No. 12 ; the cross-stitches SfC worked in the ordi- nary manner over four threads each way. The lines of slanting-stitches leave a tying or buttonhole stitch over six threads. The mode of forming this stitch is clearly shown in tho top lino of 10. The Armenian gtitches are described in Nos. 21 to 25. Nos. 12 and 13.— See No. 10. No. 14.— HERRINGBONE - PATTERN GROUN D : DRAWN THREADS. Draw two threads, leaving threo between each way ; work in a slanting direction over all the drawn open- ings (see lower part of No. 12). Herringbone-stiteh worked over every row of tho pattern straight across (see uppor part of design). No. 15.— Sea No. 10. No.s. 18 and 17.— FEATHER OR CORAL STITCH. Then! are several varieties of thoso stitches, but tho principle of working tho patterns is apparent when one of them is learnt; of this No. 16 is the most simple form. Draw the cotton through tho material and hold tho cotton \inder the left thumb (see position of needle and stitch in progress in No. 16, also the white dot in which the needle is to be placed for the second stitch) ; the loop has to bo held down for each stitch in tho same manner. No. 17 is worked in the same way, but • stitches are worked alternal ely on each side. Tho white dots correspond with the tops of tho two stitches of one side, showing where tho needle is to be put in. Nos. 18 and 19.— RETICELLA LACE. This lace is so frequently Used as an edging or ac- companiment to drawn-thread Work that we think a specimen of it, and the mode of working it, will be useful here. As will be seen in No. 18. a tracing on paper or transparent linen is needed ; if the trading Is on paper, toile ciree must be ntaoed under it. The stitches used In reticeila lace will all be found in pages £7 to 70 and 76 to 78. No. 20.— BORDER OR INSERTION : DRAWN THREADS AND SPUN-STITCHES. Draw all the threads of tho material out one way to the depth of three inches and a half; divide "the strands into sixes by working over tho edges of each strand With a slanting loop, for tho entire length, then crossing this line of stitches with a second ono (see top of design) ; next work the straight bars seven- eighths of an inch from tho edge top and bottom, and one line straight across the centre for the entire length of your work; these aro foundation threads to Work your pattern to. The knots and loops forming the oval arc the next part to work, and the spun-stitches are made by interlacing ths^e loops. The arrow indi- cates thf ^a-ode cf forming the stitches. Nos. 21 to 25.— TRIMMINGS : ARMENIAN LACE. The laces shown in Nos. 21 and 22 are for trimming coarso materials, such as Java canvas or linen. They may be made of fine twine, such as is prepared for macrame work, of strong thread, cotton, or silk twist ; they cart bo made either with or without a heading. Nos. 23 and 25 give the d«tails of working No. 22. No- 23 shows the beginning of the stitch which forms the work ; a heading of cord with picots is here shown to work into. Mignardise answers very well for a heading : if the picots of the mignardise are too close, work it into alternate picots. The next thing to ob- serve in No. 23 is that three strands of tho working material are laid evenly together and worked over. Tho difficulty with beginners will bo in tho loops being kept even in depth. The stitch is perfectly simple. To begin, tie the end of the thread into a picot of mi- gnardise, put your needle into the picot to bo worked into, lay the loop of thread round as indicated at a\ the needle is brought up at the back of this loop ; put the needle over the cotton and through the loop from the front to the back, and draw up the loop to the length shown in design ; continue for tho length re- quired. To make the X pattern tie the thread to top of first worked loop; tho first part of the X is formed by knotting into a stitch of previous row, and working ono long loop as shown by the * ; carry the thr< down to next loop of first row. and work' a knot into it; carry it, up and work the knot immediately under the star, then work down into next loop and make the centre knot, forming the third part of the X (see dot in No. 23), work the fourth from it up to b, which completes the pattern, and begin again. Into this row the vandyko pattern is next worked, as shown in No. 25. The three first rows aro worked exactly like the first row of No. 23, with the exception of "omitting the three strands of thread. For the three following rows. Which are worked ono stitch shorter each time, to enable you to work always from right to left, you lay the working thread across from left to tight, work thre* loops, lay the thread across, work two loops, again lay the thread across and work one loop, cany the thread down tho left side of this Vandyke to begin the next one; the edge is worked when all tho Vandykes are com- pleted. To work No. 21, the stitch shown in No. 25 is employed. To begin : The heading is made by working a row over a straight lino of thread, the thread is laid across from left to right, and worked over while working into tho previous rows, as described in working the Vandykes shown in No. 25. 3rd Row : Long loops are worked throughout, pass- ing over two loops of previous row. 4(h Row : Five loops are worked into each long loop of third row. 5th Row : One loop into each loop of fourth row. 6th Row: Work loops into three centre stitches of scallop, pass over two, leave a long loop (see design No. 21). Repeat. 7th Row : Work into two loops of last row, leave a long loop. Repeat. 8th Row: Work into short loop of last row, leave ft long loop, and repeat. The mode of working No. 24 is a repetition of the X pattern illustrated in No. 23. When the requisite depth of these stitches lias been worked they are crossed with straight lines, first worked lengthwise and then across (see No. 24). The edge is worked in open buttonhole, and twl6ted stitches are then worked through the open parti. 112 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL \C 1* r^i. JiySF^^^^*^^' ^ ^ "V* C8MMITE mim T§ 111 W8RK-TAB1E IttiiitiiiiilliaaoMiit »>>i •< M » ss and back stitches. -VARIETIES OF PLAIT-STITCHES. ■d with four strands of wool or silk of canvas in depth and three in width; inglo stripes, taking the needle down ver each time. No. 10 shows the same over four threads in depth and two in orked two threads lower each time. 1 over one stitch of Java canvas in n width. ER PATTERN FOR GROUNDING. •awn in straight lines for the required rpendicularly and afterwards hori- len caught down with a tent-stitch in iur at each corner of a square (see \T REPRISE OX JAVA CANVAS. t for working a border, as it may be ectively worked in Vandykes ; each d over five and undor one — the one tning in straight lines. nd 15.— GOBELIX-STITCHES. each of these designs must be laid r tho entire width to be worked be- ld of canvas. No. 14 is then worked Is of wool and over two threads of jht rows across ; and No. 15 over two iting direction. 5.— POINT DE FANTASIE. This stitch makes a pretty variety for a groun The mode of working it will be found quite easy after working the framed cross-stitch previously described. Nos. 8 and 18.— DESIGN IN SATIN, CROSS, AND RACK STITCHES. No. 8 shows iff an enlarged size the mode of working i-ho squares in No. 18; they are worked over nine threads of canvas, one square horizontally and one This is very effective work ; but should not be used where strength is required. Trace the design on can- vas, and work tho design in the necessary shades of wool in horizontal lines. When all the horizontal lines of flower or pattern are worked, work with the same colour in straight lines in tent-stitch, leaving three threads of canvas between each line; outline with the same colour in cording-stitch over four threads in length and two in width, taking the needle back two threads for each stitch, The ground is worked in one colour, ■I COMPLETE GUIDE TO 1'HE -TABLE. 115 BERLIN WORK. INTRODUCTION. Under the head of Berlin work are vane i ies of stitches, worked generally upon canvas wit.ii double or single Berlin wool or filoselle silk, or the two combined. The principal stitch now employed is the ordinary cross- stitch, worked over two threads of canvas each way. The introduction of the point patterns in Berlin attho boy inning of this century gave the work the name of Berlin work. The plan of working previously to the introduction of these patterns was to have the design painted on canvas and work over it. Tent-stitch was quite as much employed for the work as cross-stitch ; but it is not used much at tho present time, as it is very slow work, trying to the sight, from its requiring very fine canvas. The illustrations which follow give all the more difficult stitches at present in use and directions for working them. perpendicularly. The light work surrounding the squares is in cross and back stitches. Nos. 1 to 6.— FRAMED CROSS-STITCH. This pattern is intended for coarse canvas ; it has no Wrong side if properly worked, therefore is suitable to articles that are not to be lined. No. 1 shows tho mode of beginning the stitch ; this is to make the w firm, and the work neat on each side, and is in fact a diagonal darn of three threads. No. 2 shows tho first stitch finished and tho needle placed for the first, frame-side, of a square. (Workers must observe that each stitch covers three threads of the canvas each way.) No. 3 shows tho position of the needle for tho second side of frame. No. 4 tho mode of working the second half of cross-stitch, and the third side of square on the wrong side, and is continued for the whole length of tho pattern. No. 5 shows the pattern repeated on the right side, and No. 6 its appearance on the wrong side if correctly worked. No. 7.— FRAMED STAR. This stitch makes a pretty variety for a grouni The mode of working it will be found quite easy ■ working the framed cross-stitch previously described. Nos. 8 and 18.— iv IN SATIN, CROSS, AND BACK STITCHES. No. 8 shows in an enlarged size the mode of working the squares in No. 18 ; they are worked over nine "ads of canvas, one square horizontally and one Nos. 9 to 11.— VARIETIES OF PLAIT-STITCHES. No. 9 js worked with four strands of wool or silk over six threads of canvas in deptli and three in width; it is worked in single stripes, taking the needle down three stitches lower each time. No. 10 shows the same pattern worked over four threads in depth and two in width ; it is worked two threads lower each time. No. 11 is worked ovor one stitch of Java canvas in depth and two in width. No. 12.— DIAPER PATTERN FOR GROUNDING. The wool is drawn in straight lines for the required length, first perpendicularly and afterwards hori- zontally ; it is then caught down with a tent-stitch in a different colour at each corner of a square (see arrow). No. 13.— POINT REPRISE ON JAVA CANVAS. This is pretty for working a border, as it maybe quickly and effectively worked in Vandykes; each stitch is worked over five and under one — the one stitch always coming in straight lines. Nos. U and 15.— GOBELIN-STITCHES. Tho wool for each of these designs must be laid horizontally over tho entiro width to be worked be- tween each thread of canvas. No. 14 is then worked over two strands of wool and over two threads of canvas in straight rows across ; and No. 15 over two threads in a slanting direction. No. 16.— POINT I)E FANTASIE. This is very effective work ; but should not be used whero strength is required. Trace the design on can- vas, and work tho design in the necessary shades of wool in horizontal lines. When all the horizontal lines of flower or pattern are worked, work with the same ■ur in straight lines in tent-stitch, leaving three threads of canvas between each line ; outline with the same colour in cording-stitch over four threads in length and two in width, taking the needle back two threads for each stitch. The ground is worked in one colour. HHI 116 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL NO. I. NO. 4. NO. 2. VO. I J. iso. 13. NO. 14. ?>o. '?. ua|^HnMaBM||^MnH|BHM COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 117 NO. I*. THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 119 SO. ^ >^' J-. -V 120 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL. No. 17.— DESIGN ON JAVA CANVAS OF LONG, CROSS, AND SATIN STITCHES. The satin-stitches forming the diamonds are of dif- ferent lengths, showing the canvas between ; the long cross-stitches are worked over four stitches in depth and two in width. No. 18.— See No. 8. No. 19.— FRINGE OF WOOL THROUGH CANVAS. Six strands of wool are drawn under two stitches of canvas, which can be afterwards worked over with cross-stitch, taking through a stitch of canvas and strand of wool together. Nos. 20 and 21.— RAISED BERLIN WORK. This work is suitable for rugs or mats made with six or eight thread fleecy. The Illustration No. 20 shows the mode of working No. 21— a simple pat- tern with one colour only cut, the remainder allowed to remain in loops. Take a mesh or strip of card, lay in it straight line on your work, draw the wool through above the mesh, put it round the mesh, and work a cross-stitch to the right. If more than one shade or colour has to be used in a row, do not cut off the last, but pass it to the back of the work, to be used agaiu when required. No. 22.— RAISED WORK WITH DOUBLE WOOL. This stitch, if worked over a wide mesh, forms a pretty fringe for Berlin work, mats &c. Put the wool round the mesh and through two threads of canvas in a straight line to the left ; put the needle through the loop on the mesh, and straight through the two next threads to the right (see arrow), repeat. This may be worked in shades, and afterwards cut with a sharp pair of scissors. Nos. 23 and 24.— FRINGE. This fringe may be m ado any depth, according to the size of the mesh. Have the wool wound in six balls ; take the six lengths together, turn them over a mesh ; take a needle threaded with very coarse cotton or thread, pass it round the six strands on the mesh and through the thread as for a buttonhole-stitch (see Design No. 23). Repeat. For cutting, see No. 24. Wo. 25.— STAR PATTERN : RAISED BERLIN WORK OR PLUSH-STITCH. Our design shows a star pattern and shaded stripe. Before beginning a pattern the worker must practice the stitch, which is suitable for footstools, cushions, &c. ; it is worked with Berlin wool over strips of card- board. The stars' are worked with one colour only ; the easiest plan is, to mark them out on the canvas either with needle and wool or with pen and ink; commence in the narrowest part. Work three cross- stitches each over two ordinary stitches of canvas perpendicularly (see upper part of design), place a strip of card a quarter of an inch in width and an inch and a half in length over the stitches, fill into the shape of star, working over the card. The stars are separated by stripes of live shades of wool worked horizontally over eighteen stitches of canvas in the longest part and twelve in the shortest. Work the stripe from the point of one star to the point of the next, after working the stars. For the shaded stripe, begin with the darkest shade arid work the row of cross-stitches and first row of plush-stitch with it. After working the cross-stitch, take a strip of card, placo it over the row of cross- stitches, work over it for the plush-stitches as shown in the upper part of the design (25) in exactly the same way as you would work herringbone-stitch, working through two threads of canvas in a straight line each time. Work the second shade over the fust, working into the next row of canvas threads (see de- sign No. 25) ; continue working each shade over the last until the stripe is the width required. Count the stitches for the next stripe, commence in the centre, and work the second stripe as described for the first. When all the rows are worked, take a pair of sharp scissors, insert them under the stitches just above the cardboard in the centre of stripe, and cut through the wool. Great care must be taken in cutting the shape of the star, as the cutting may much improve it. Wlien the cutting is finished (and there is great art in this to make the work look really well) hold over the steam of boiling water, and after- wards hold by the four corners and paint the back with strong gum to fix the stitches. Nos. 26 and 27.— DESIGN: BROCART-DE-BOUR- GOYNE. The foundation, which must«not be too firm a mate- rial, must be fixed tightly into a frame after the out- line has been traced upon it. The outline is worked with fine chenille in tambour-stitch, which is the same as chain-stitch in crochet; the ball of chenille must be kept at the back of the work and each loop pulled through to the front. The loop-stitches are worked in gold or silver thread over a knitting-pin ; make a knot in the thread and put it through to the front of the work below the pin, round the pin from back to front, and through the loop made with the thread (see de- sign). Nos. 28 to 31.— FANCY STITCHES IN BERLIN WOOL AND SILK. These stitches are for working on foundations of cloth, satin, or velvet ; in No. 28 the pattern must be traced on the material, and wool is put over from edge to edge of the tracing; this is crossed at regular in- tervals witli back-stitches and outlined with chain- stitches in silk. No. 29 shows a simple and effective way of working leaves. No. 30 shows the detail of No. 31, which for outline and filling consists of wool put. the entire length of the design and worked over as shown in No. 30, which gives the effect of crding- stitch. No. 32.— CHENILLE WORK. This diagram shows the mode of working chenille without waste of this material, which is costly; it ia I- outlined with cording-stitch in silk. i «*.' SSIBE T© TIE W91K-TAS1I FANCY NETTING. ROSK-NETTING WITH DARNED STRIPE. ■B 12ii THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL DESCRIPTION OF DESIGN ON PAGE 121. -**-oco~t«- ROSE -NETTING. This design is suitable for curtains, antimacassars, shawls, &c. It consists of stripes of rose - netting- worked according to the directions given for No. 8. Four patterns of rose-netting are alternated with six rows of plain netting. Tl»e plain stripes are darned (see design). COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. FANCY NETTING. INTRODUCTION. Netting has been practised for so many years that the date of its invention is unknown. Specimens of netting are still to be seen among Egyptian relics in some of the Continental museums, together with the tools that made them, and are said to be 3,000years old. Mentions of it are made in the Bible. In the thirteenth century it appears to have been introduced into Eng- land, and has been known under the different names of caul-work, net-work, lacis, and Roseau, &c. _ That, it can be, and is. put to many useful purposes is well known. Fishermen's nets are generally of their own make; and the more industrious of tho craft, spend many of their leisure hours in both making and mend- ing their nets. Netted articles of attire were made of rich silk and gold thread; and about fifty years ago netted window-curtains were quite a fashion. -It is quite probable that a turn in the wheel of fashion will bring back into special favour work that has for some years past been very little practised ; although it is "never entirely put aside, as the guipure netting, which is of a much more elaborate description, has been much used for window-curtains, antimacassars, drapes, trimming. &C For the tools employed in net- ting, and tho description «.f tho stitches, we refer our readers to our '.impure netung. No. 1.— COMMON NETTING. This is the most ordinary and simple form of net- ting, and only differs from the mode of square netting in this respect: the work is begun by netting the number of stitches needed for the whole length of the work, and netting into them in tho following rows. The stitch is precisely the same as described for square netting, page 20. No. 1 is worked with one thread for all but the lower row, where two threads are introduced to form the edge. No. 2.— MODE OF WORKING A NETTED FOUNDA- TION WITH HOLES FOR EMBROIDERING TRE- FOILS IN. The ground may be worked in ordinary slanting netting, or in the round netting shown in No. 3. The pattern is formed by leaving off and turning round in the middle of tho rows. This pattern consists of three little holes which are afterwards worked round with flossette to form a trefoil pattern. No. 2 shows this in an increased size in order to show more clearly The mode of working the pattern. Work a plain row for the required length. 1st Row: Net five stitches, draw the needle out, turn tho work, and then go back as far as the begin- ning of the row, making one knot in each stitch ; then, returning, having arrived at the last of the five stitches, loop the thread for a long stitch on the next stitch of Uie upper plain row. Then work on for live more stitches in the sanae way as for the first five stitches, work back, then loop the working thread round the large stitch lying on the left, as shown in No. 2, in this manner forming the first line of holes. All the returning stitches are indi- cated in No. 2 by dots, so that the course of the work may be easily followed ; therefore the next plain row and the succeeding row forming the two holes for The trefoil need no explanation; there are four rows be- tween each pattern row. No. 3.-ROUND-NETTING. This netting only differs from the common netting in the mode of placing the needle into the stitches of the proceeding line. For this, put the needle through the loop without changing the place of the finger or loop, turn the needle round and put it into the stitch of the preceeding line from above downwards, as shown by tho arrow in No. 3, the working thread must, remain on the right hand of the needle, and the stitch is then firmly drawn up in the usual manner. By this means the stitches in the preceeding row are a little twisted, and a round-looking stitch is formed. No . ^.—LOOP-NETTING. Work two rows of ordinary netting on a knitting- pin No. 12 (Walkers' Bell Gauge). In the third row work two stitches into one, twist the thread twice round the pin. Repeat for the required length. 4th Row : Work two loops into the long-st itches ot last row, twist the thread twice round. Repeat to the end of the row, and continue working only the fourth row. ' No. 5.- DIAMOND PATTERN IN ROUND NETTING. The number of stitches for this pattern is five, and one over. » 1st Row: Work four stitches as described for round netting (No. 3). Work one long stitch by twisting the thread'' twice round the pin. Repeat for the lengtn required. ■ . :,., 2nd Row : Two long stitches, * three round stitches, one long stitch into the centre of first long stitch, one long stitch into next round stitch. Repeat from *. 3rd Row : One long stitch, * two round stitches, one long stitch into next long stitch, one round stitch into next long stitch, one long stitch into next round stitch. Repeat from *. 4th Row: two round stitches, one long stitch, one round stitch, one long stitch. Repeat from beginning of row. _ A 5th Row: One round stitch, * two long stitched, three round stitches. Repeat. 6th Row: Three round, * ono long, four round. Repeat from *. 7 t.h How: Oie round, * two long, three round. Repeat from * 8th Row: Two round, * one long, one round, one long, fcwf round. Repeat from *. 9th Ro* : One lone, two round, ono long, one round. Repeat from the beginning of the row. 10th Row : Two long, three round. Repeat. Now continue working from the first row. 12. 4 4 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL no. I. MO. 2, NO. 3. NO. 4. no.-,. NO. 6. NO. 1. NO. 8. NO. 9. NO. 10. NO. 11. NO. I J. — ^■MMMiflMi COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 125 *0 2}. FO. 10. ko. at. 126 TME YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL. No. 6.— SQUARE PATTERN. For this pattern : — 1st Row : Work one plain row. 2nd Row : One ordinary stitch, and twist the thread twice round for the large square. Repeat to the end •of the row. The first and second rows are repeated alternately. Arrange the stitches so that a long stitch always comes under a short stitch. NOS. 7 and 10.— CROSS-NETTING. 1st Row : Plain netting. 2nd Row : Net alternately one long and one common stitch. 3rd Row: Work entirely in short stitches, which naturally draw unevenly. 4th Row consists alternately of long and short stitches ; but instead of working them in the usual way, draw a stitch of last row through the long loops of the second row and net it, draw the following stitch through the same loop and net it ; continue to work a long and short stitch alternately in this way through the row. Repeat the third and fourth rows alter- natel} 7 . Nos. 8, 11, and 21.— ROSE-NETTING IN PLAIN AND STRIPED VARIETIES. No. 8 shows the detail of the work. No. 11, rose- netting ; and No. 21, rose-netting, with ribbon velvet run in at each fifth pattern, and the rose-netting is darned with silk or wool of a contrasting colour to the netting. This pattern would make verypretty shawls netted with white Andalusian wool, darned with pink, maize, or blue silk, and narrow black ribbon velvet run in. Another variety of this design is illustrated on the cover of this Supplement. 1st Row : Net quite plain over a mesh about a third of an inch in width. 2nd Row : Net over a knitting pin (No. 12), thus : First draw the first long loop through the second and net it, then draw the second long loop through the tirst and net it. Repeat throughout the row. No. 8 clearly illustrates the mode of working this row. The first loop is shown drawn through the second ready for netting, at the lower middle of illustration, and the arrow represents the needle inserted ready for work- ing the second loop. The tirst and second rows are repeated alternately for the required length, looping the stitches so that the pattern is reversed. Nos. 9 and 12.— STAR-NETTING. Cross and star netting very much resemble each other ; after working the cross, little difficulty will be found in working the star-netting. 1st Row : One double and one plain stitch alter- nately with knitting pin No. 12. 2nd Row : Net plain with a mesh a third of an inch wide. 3rd Row : Draw one stitch of second row through long loop of tirst row, net it with a short stitch, draw the next loop through the same long loop of first, and net it with a long stitch (i.e., cotton twice round the mesh). Repeat the second and third rows for length required. No. lO.-Seo No. 7. No. 11.— See No. 8, Jfo, 12,— See No .9, No. 13.— STRIPE-NETTING. This requires an even number of stitches. 1st Row : Net a plain row. 2nd Row : Miss the first stitch, net the second, tlicu the first, and so on till the end of the row. These two rows form the pattern. No. 14.— HONEYCOMB-NETTING. An even number of stitches are needed for this pat« tern. 1st Row: Plain netting. 2nd Bow: Net the second stitch, then the first, next the fourth, then the- third '; work thus to the end of the row. 3rd Row : Plain. 4th Row : Net a plain stitch ; begin the pattern by netting the third stitch, then the second, next the fifth, then the fourth ; end with a plain stitch, and continue to the end of the row. Repeat from first row. No. 15.— DIAGONAL-NETTING. The looping of the stitches is clearly shown in the design ; work with one size mesh throughout. Work a plain row. 1st Row : Work two loops into each stitch of the row. 2nd Row : Draw the second loop through the first in the direction of tiio arrow ; the a is drawn through b (see right of illustration). The first stitch is worked in the loop marked a ; the second in the one marked b. To mark the pattern and make it easier, the stitches drawn through might be drawn a little longer than the others. Of the two following stitches still hanging free, that marked a is the one through which the first stitch is to be made; besides the letters the point of the arrow shows the course of the stitches. The second row is repeated throughout. To keep the stitches in the right direction, cross them by drawing them through from left to right in each alternate row. No. 16.— BORDER : PLAIN, HONEYCOMB, AND ROSE NETTING. 1st Row : Plain netting with small mesh. 2nd Row : Work four plain stitches ; work four loops into the fifth stitch. Repeat to the end of the row. 3rd Row : Work three plain ; work the clustors of two loops together. Repeat from the beginning of row. 4th and 5th Rows : Plain. 6th Row : Like second row, beginning with two plain stitches to alternate tho position of the cluster-. 7th Row : Like third row, working the clusters in their proper places. 8th and 9th Rows: Plain. Five rows of honeycomb pattern like No. 14 are now worked ; the rows are alternately of fine and coarse material, or of silk and wool to give effect to the pat- tern. Work three rows plain netting. Two patterns of rose netting ; and for the edge one row with a larger mesh and the two strands of the working material. The scallop design is worked with a needle with silk two or three times thick. No. 17.— INSERTION : ROSE AND PLAIN NETTING EDGED WITH CROCHET. Work four rows of plain netting with a small mesh. One pattern rose-netting as described in No. 8. Four plain rows. For the edges work two double crochet stitches into each stitch of the netting. COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE 12? Xos. 18 and 19.— NETTING FOUNDATION INTER- LACED WITH A NEEDLE AND THREAD. The foundation consists of plain rows of netting worked with a contrasting colour or material from end to end ; the mode of working is too clearly illus- trated to need description. The pattern is varied by each row being worked in No. 18, and alternate rows being worked in No. 19. Nos. 20 and 22.— TRIMMINGS. or No. 20 work five rows plain netting over a knit- ting-pin (No. 12). Work two patterns of star-netting as described in Nos. 9 and 12. Work two plain rows. Work one row with a mesh half an inch wide, passing over one stitch of last row. For the last row work over^ the large mesh into every stitch. A row of darning-stitch is worked in scallops at each edge of I ho star patterns. No. 22 shows a variation of the same pattern, working more rows over the small mesh, «nd omitting the edge row described for Xo. 20. No. 21.— Soe No. 8. Xo. 22.— See Xo. 20. Xo. 23.— TRIMMING; NETTING. With thread of two sizes work four rows plain over a knitting-pin (No. 14-). 5th Row : With coarse thread and a half-inch mesh work into every alternate stitch of the row. 6th Row : With fine thread and small mesh work two stitches into each stitch of previous row (see design). 7th to 9.th Rows : Plain netting. 10th Row: Like fifth row. 11th Row : Like sixth row. 12th to 14th Rows: Plain. 15th Row : Same as fifth row. Nos. 24, 26, and 27.— DOILY : NETTING. Xo. 24- shows the mode of beginning a circular piece of netting, the first row of which is worked over a thread as shown in Xo. 26. When the row has the re- quired number of stitches the thread must be tied as shown in the centre of Xo. 24. Meshes of graduated sizes are used, as shown in Xo. 24 and in the centre of No. 27, where seven rows of graduated sizes are worked. In the eighth row of doily a fan pattern is made by working six stitches into one of the previous row over the largest mesh. Eleven plain rows are next worked over the second, and each of two larger sizes of pins used as the meshes for the centre of doily in order to make the work flat. Xext work three pat- terns of rose netting over meshes of three sizes. A plain row with the smallest mesh, working two stitches into one of the previous row, finishes this doily. The leaf pattern over the fan pattern is darned in. Xos. 25 and 28.— MODE OF BEGINNING A CIRCLE. Make a loop, net one stitch into it, remove the mesh, net one stitch into the last, continue working rows of single stitches until you have the number required (you will find that the piece worked has the appear- ance of two rows of loops), pass apiece of cotton through the loops at one side, then tie tho cotton, work into the loops at the other side in a circle. The increase for the circle shown in No. 25 is made by netting two stitches into each alternate stitch of the first round ; in the next and following rounds always net two into the made stitch of the previous round, this keeps the increase rows even and forms a kind of star. The clusters are worked like those described in Xo. 16. Xos. 26 and 27.— See Xo. 24. Xo. 28.— See Xo. 25. Xo. 29. -FOUNDATION WITH NEEDLEWORK PATTERN. This design consists of rows of ordinary netting with crosses worked with a needle and thread into each alternate square ; the mode of working the cross will be easily seen in tiio design ; the thread is carried from square to square by twisting it round the right- hand foundation thread. Xo. 30.— OPEX-WORK AXD DARXED STRIPE. Work seven plain rows over a small mesh. 8th Row : With a mesh a size larger work one stitch into each stitch of previous row. 9th Row: With the same mesh net two stitches to- gether throughout. 10th Row : Xet, two stitches into one throughout'. Repeat from the beginning of the pattern. The darning is worked with wool or silk of a con- trasting colour (see design). Xo. 31.— TRIMMING, WITH THICK LOOPS AXD FAX EDGE. Work two rows plain netting. 3rd Row : Work three stitches into one of previous ' row, one stitch into each of two successive stitches. Repeat throughout the row. 4th Row: Plain working through the clusters three stitches together as one stitch. 5th Row : Plain. 6th Row : Like third row, working tho clusters three stitches between those of the third row. 7th Row : Like fourth row. 8th Row: Work into two stitches together below the clusters of sixth row, work one into all the other stitches. 9th Row : Work over a mesh rather more than half an inch in width four stitches into one stitch of last row, pass over three stitches, and repeat. 10th Row : With the mesh first used work one stitch into each of tho four worked into one stitch, take the next loop, pass it through the centre of the three stitches passed over in the previous row, work one stitch into it. Repeat from the beginning of the row. The mode of passing the long loop through the centre of the three stitches is clearly shown by the thin line in tho design. of of Xo. 32.— LOOSE LOOP PATTERX. 1st and 2nd Rows : Plain netting. 3rd Row .- Two plain loops, place the working thread as usual over the mesh, and pass the needle close over the nearest knot of the last row but one f-rom under- neath perpendicularly, put the thread round the mosh again, and let the needlo go again through the same stitch from underneath upwards, and then work a common stitch in the next stitch of the last row so that the thread is put three times round the mesh as shown in tho lower right hand corner of illustration. Repeat from the beginning of the row. 4th and 5th Rows : Plain. 6th Row: Like third row, working so that tho clusters of loons come between the clusters of third row, '->*.* 7*^^,, 128 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL. so. jr. ->o -a. mmmmm £(mmte mim t© tie w@rk-table. FANCY NETTING, nos. 33 xvra 54.«-T.A?nrrs. / 130 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL DESCRIPTION OF DESIGNS ON PAGE 129. -j*»o$o-&- LAPPET FOR CAPS, &c. No. 33.— This lappet is composed of one stripe of the open work and darned stripe shown in illustra- tion 30, (page 128), edged by a fan pattern. To form the point at the end, tie the cotton into the first of the four loops, work one stitch into each of the other four stitches, turn, knot the cotton into the centre of last loop without working over a mesh, one stitch over the mesh into each of the three next loops, turn, knot tho cotton into the first loop in the same way as last, one stitch into each of two loops, turn, knot the cotton into the first loop, one stitch into the next. Now work a row round both sides and tho end. 1st Row: In loop netting described for the stripe, working quite round the end and along tho other side. 2nd and 3rd Rows : Plain netting. 4th Row : Over the larger mesh work one stitch into a loop, six stitches into the next loop, and repeat. Over the small mesh work one stitch into each stitch of last row. No. 34-.— This is in sheaf pattern, with bunches of loops. The sheaf pattern is described in No, c9 of this Supplement. Make a foundation of as many loops a»s you require for tho length of lappet. 1st Row : Plain over a mesh the eighth of an inch in width. 2nd Row: Sheaf netting, leaving one of tho long loops without tying into a sheaf ; for the end on one of those commence the 3rd Row : Work over the small mesh, ten stitches into it, one stitch into each of the stitches worked with double cotton. Now work tho 4th Row all round plain. 5th Unw : In the loop netting described for tho stripe of No. 1. 6th Row: Plain. 7th Row: Bunches of loops described in No. 1 of this Supplement. 8th Row : Plain. COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 131 FANCY NETTING ( Continued } t V-g^A^S^ A" 1 No. 35.— SCALLOP. These scallops make a pretty edge for curtains, anti- macassars, &c. -, they are worked separately and sewn to the curtain, or whatever they are intended to orna- ment, with a needle and thread.. 1st Row : Over a mesh three-quarters of an inch wide work twenty-seven stitches. 2nd Row : Work with double thread and knitting- pin No. 12 for a mesh, one stitch into each stitch of last row. 3rd to 5th Rows : Like second row, but with singlo instead of double cotton. 6th Row : Rose netting, with coarser cotton, direc- tions and illustrations Tor which will bo found in Nos. 8 and 11, (page 124). 8th to 10th Rows : Like third to fifth rows. 9th Row : With double thread over the large mesh, one stitch into each stitch of last row. 10th Row : One stitch into two loops together. Re- peat to the end of the row. Draw up the first row of loops with a needle and thread (see design). For the crochet heading, one double into last loop of tenth row, seven chain, one double treble into rose netting, seven chain, one double treble into fourth row, seven chain, one double treble into long loops, three chain, one quadruple treble into the centre of cluster of loops, three chain, one double treble into long loop, seven chain, one double treble into fourth row, seven chain, one doublo treble into rose netting, seven chain, one double treble into tentb pow. No. 37.— FAN NETTING. This kind of netting is used for edgings, stripes, &c. 1st and 2nd Rows : Plain notting over a quarter- inch mefh. 3rd Row : Cotton twice over the mesh for each loop. 4th Row : Plain notting. 5th Row : Five stitches into one stitch of previous row, cotton tw'ico over the mesh, pass over one stitch, and repeat. 6th Row : One stitch into each of four loops worked into ono loop, pass over the long loop, and repeat. 7th Row : One stitch into each of tiie three loops of last row, cotton twice over tho mosh, pass over thu next loop, and repeat. 8th Row : One stitch into each of the two loops of last row, cotton twice over the nnsh, pass over the long loop, and repeat to the end of tho row. No. 35.— BORDER WITH DOUBLE LOOSE LOOPS. This will form a pretty border for neckerchiefs worked in Ice silk. After the foundation, which mqy be in plain netting, work with doublo r-ilk over a meeh one-eighth inch in width. 1st and 2nd Rows : Plain. 3rd Row : Five plain, one loose loop (loose loops were described in No. 32, page 127), five plain. Now you must begin each row from the same sido. 4th Row : One plain, one loose loop, six plain. 5th Row : Three plain, ono loose loop, one plain, one loose loop, three plain. 6th Row : Plain. 7th Row : Two plain, one loose loop, throe plain, one loose loop, two plain, repeat. 8th Row : Plain. 9th Row : One plain, one loose loop, two plain, ono loose loop, two plain, one loose loop. 10th Row: Plain. 11th Row : Ono loose loop, seven plain, repeat. 12th Row : Take a half-inch mesh, work three stitches in each loop of last row. 13th Row : Take a knitting-pin No. 14. Work one stitch in each stitch of last row. 14th Row : Like thirteenth over the thick mesh. 15th Row : Over the thick mesh net six loops toge- ther each time. No. '38 .—BORDER WITH BUNCHES OF LOOPS. This forms a pretty border for shawls, curtains, &c. It is worked throughout with double cotton or double Andalusian wool, and a half-inch mesh. 1st Row : Plain netting. 2nd Row : Two plain, one bunch of loops. Each bunch of loops is worked in tho following way: After a common stitch, which must be rather long, put the thread again loosely round the mesh and push tho needle through without making a knot, then make another stitch-knot so that two loops remain in the same stitch. As shown in the lower right corner, the loop bunch is fastened here, for which the needle is carried'from behind round the bunch and pushed in front from underneath through the loop, and is drawn up tightly ; now work ono plain, one bunch of loops. 3rd Row : One plain, three bunches of loops sepa- rated by one plain stitch. 4th Row : Like second row. 5th Row : Like third row. 6th Row : Liko second row. 7th and Rth Rows: Plain. 9th Row*: Tnree plain, ono bunch. 10th Row : Like second row. 11th Row : Like third row. 12th Row : Bunches of loops throughout. 13th Row : Ono stitch into each plain stitch of last row. No. 39.— EDGING : DOUBLE FAN OR SHEAF. This forms a pretty edging for doilys, night nets, &e. 1st to 3rd Rows : Plain notting over a quarter-inch mesh. 4th Row : With a mesh an inch wide, and double cotton, work one stitch into each loop. 5th Row : With the small mesh one stitch into each loop. The long-stitches are caught together in clusters of three by a needle and cotton ; each stitch must be firmly fastened at back and cut off. The heading is worked in crochet ; one double into a stitch, three chain, and repeat to the end of the row. ": ; -'-~": : i33I *■■ 1 "' THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL 110. 35 no. 40, NO. 41. COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE. 133 no. 46. NO, 47. 134 THE YOUNG LADIES' JOURNAL No. 40.— BORDER WITH ROUND-LOOP HEADING. This design will make a pretty shawl or neckerchief, netted with Ice silk and Andalusian wool, and two round meshes one half the size of the other ; tho plain netting with the silk and round loops in wool. The three rows would be repeated any number of times to form the foundation. 1st Row : Work with double wool and the large mesh, one stitch into each stitch.of foundation, in the same way as described for round netting, No. 3. (page 123). 2nd and 3rd Rows : Plain netting with a small mesh. 4th Row : Like first row. 5th and 6th Rows : Like second and third rows. 7th Row: With double wool, and a mesh three- quarter, inch wide, work threo stitches into a loop, pass over one loop, and repeat. 8th and 9th Rows : With the small mesh and single silk plain netting. 10th Row : With the largest mesh and double wool one stitch into a loop, one through the next loop and that already worked into together (see arrow), and one stitch into the second stitch, pass over one stitch, and repeat to the end of row. 11th Row : With the small mesh and single silk, one stitch into each loop of last row. No. 41.— DIAMOND PATTERN. This design is suitable for foundations of shawls or stripes for clouds, antimacassars, &c. 1st Row: Plain. 2nd Row : Work two loops into a stitch, draw the next loop rather longer, and repeat to end of the row. 3rd Row : One stitch into each loop of last row. 4th Row : Work a stitch through two loops together under the two loops worked into a stitch in second row. Repeat to the end of the row. Repeat from the first row. The double loops are worked across with a needle and cotton, as shown in the upper part of illustration. No. 42.— DESIGN WITH TWISTED LOOPS. This design is worked in wool, and is suitable for shawls, antimacassars, &c. 1st and 2nd Rows : Plain over a mesh one-third of an inch in width. 3rd Row : Plain over a mesh one inch in width. 4th Row : Twist a loop twice and work through tho lower part (as indicated by the arrow), one stitch into each loop over the small mesh. 5th and 6th Rows : Like first and second rows. 7th Row : With wool of two colours one stitch into a loop over the small mesh, turn the wool twico over the mesh, pass over one loop and repeat. The work is to be taken from the foundation, the knots picked out, and a row like the sixth worked into the first row. No. 43.— STRIPE FOR SHAWLS, &c. This design is worked with wool. 1st and 2nd Rows: Plain over a small mesh. 3rd Row : With a mesh double the size and doublo wool, one stitch into each stitch of last row. 4th Row: With the small mesh and single wool, plain netting. 5th Row : Like third row. 6th and 7th Rows : Like first and second rows. No. 44.— BORDER : ROSE AND SHEAF PATTERN 1st to 3rd Rows : With a knitting pin No. 11 fur a mesh work in plain netting : — 4th and 5th Bows : Rose netting (see page 128). 6th and 7th Rows : Plain. 8th Row .- With treble cotton and a mesh rather more than an inch in width work ono sfttch into each loop. 9th to 11th Rows : With the small mesh and single cotton work one stitch into each loop. 12th Row : In round netting (for which see fllus* nation 3, page 124) work with double cotton one etitch into a loop, cotton twice over the mesh, pass over one stitch, and repeat. The sheafs are caugnt, togetner by crochet. Work one double over threo triple loops, seven chain, ropeat. A double length of cotton is darned in a straight lino abovo and below the two rows of rose pattern. No. 45.— BORDER WITH TUFTS AND SCALLOPED EDGE. This border is suitable for woollen shawls ; it may be worked with Berlin wool of two colours. 1st Row : Plain netting with tho dark shade over a quarter-inch mesh. 2nd Row: With the light shade over a half-inch mesh work three stitches into one loop, draw the next loop very tightly, and repeat to the end of the row. 3rd Row : Ono stitch through the three loops toge- ther over the small mesh. Repeat to tho end of the row. 4th Row : Like second row. 5th Row : Like third row. 6th Row : One stitch into each loop of last row. 7th Row : Over the large mesh and with the light shade eight stitches into ono loop, wool twico over the mesh, pass over threo loops, and repeat to the end of the row. 8th Row : With the dark shade and the small mesh one stitch over the long loop of last row into the second of the three stitches passed over, one stitch into eacli of the other loops. 9th Row: One stitch into each loop of last row. Take the work from the foundation, pick out the knots, work with the dark wool and the large mesh ono stitch into each loop. No. 46.— DESIGN : LONG AND CROSSED LOOPS. This design is worked with knitting silk and Anda- lusian wool. For the 1st and 2nd Rows : work in plain netting with silk and a mesh measuring a quarter of an inch in breadth. 3rd Row : With double wool and a half-inch mesh work two stitches into one loop, one stitch into each of the two next loops. Repeat from the beginning of tho row. 4th Row : Take the long loop at the left of a short loop, pass it through the short loop, and net it with silk and the smaller mesh ; take the next long loop and pass it through tho same short loop and net it. Repeat to the end of tho row. 5th Row : One stitch into each loop of last row. 6th Row : With double wool and the large mesh ono stitch into each loop of last row. 7th and 8th Rows : With silk and the small mesh, like fifth row. « 9th and 10th Rows: Like third and fourth rows. 11th Row : Like fifth row. COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WORK-TABLE 135 No. 47.— BORDER: CROSS NETTING AND TWISTED LOOPS. 1st and 2nd Rows : With a quarter-inch mesh one Btdtch into each loop. 3rd and 4th Rows : Twisted loops as described for the third and fourth rows of No. 8. 5th Row : One stitch into each loop. 6th and 7th Rows: Cross netting. Cross ueuxtig was described in Nos. 7 and 10, pago 124. 8th and 9th Rows : One stitch into each loop. 10th and 11th Rows : Like third and fourth rows. No. 48.— NECKERCHIEF. Materials Required : 1| oz black silk, a knitting-pin No. 12 (Walker's gauge), and a half-inch ivory mesh. Begin the neckerchief in the centre from point to point upon a foundation of 112 stitches, working over the smaller mesh two plain rows, but do not work the last stitch of each row. 3rd Row : Work over the large mesh with double silk one stitch into each loop except the last ; do not work that. 4th Row : With tho small mesh and single silk work one stitch into each long loop, twisting the loops as described in No. 42, page 133 ; continue to repeat from the second row until you have worked eight repeats of the pattern ; take the work from the foundation, pink out tho knots, run a thread through the second row, and work upon the first row ; for the second half as described for the first, commencing with the row of long twisted loops. For the border : — 1st Round: Over the small mesh net one stitch into each stitch of foundation, except in the stitch at each end of tho first row ; in these work two stitches. 2nd Round : Like first round. 3rd Round : Over the large mesh work four stitches into one stitch of previous round, pass over one stitch. Repeat all round. 4th and 5th Rounds : Over the small mesh, one stitch into each stitch of last round. 6th Round : Like third round. 7th Round : With double silk one stitch into each stitcTr of last round. No. 49.— FRINGE. This fringe may cither be worked with wool or cotton. 1st Row : For tho foundation, plain with a small mesh. 2nd Row: Over a three-quarter inch mesh, with double cotton or wool, one stitch into each loop. 3rd Row: Over a knitting-pin No. 13 net one stitch into the second loop, pass the first loop at the back of the second, and net it. Repeat, crossing the loops in this way throughout the row. 3rd Row*: Like second row, 4th Row : Net ono loop into tho first, pass over the second, net into the third, pass the second at the back of third and net it, continue to cross tho loops to the end of tho row. Netting the first stitch plain in alter- nate rows causes the crossed loops to come between the upper row of crossed loops. 5th Row : Over a quarter-inch mesh net one into each loop of last row. Cut lengths of cotton or wool, and knot eight strands into each loop of last row. No. 50.— DESIGN FOR ANTIMACASSARS, FICHUS, &C.: DARNED NETTING. The foundation is netted plain over a knitting pin Wo. 14 ; any number of rows may bo worked. For the border : — 1st Row : Work two stitches in each loop of foun- dation over a quarter-inch mesh 2nd Row: Over the small mesh work one stitch through the second stitch worked into one loop of last row, and into the next loop together, so that the dou- ble loop always slants to the right. 3rd Row : Plain. 4th Row : Ono stitch over the large mesh into a stitch of last row, pass over one stitch, six stitches into the next, pass over one stitch and repeat. 5*th Row : One stitch over the large mesh into each stitch of last row. 6th Row : With the small mesh work into each loop of last row, twisting the long loops as described for No. 42, (page 134). The pattern is darned in the foun- dation with soft knitting cotton. No. 51.— TASSEL FRINGE. Blake a foundation with Berlin wool over a knitting" pin No. 10 (Walker's gauge). Work six plain rows. 7th Row : Net one into each stitch with double wool over a mesh two inches in width, cut all the loops in the centre, take two strands from each of two loops, bind them once round with silk of the same colour as the wool, take three strands of wool two and a half inches in length, bind them in with the strands of tho loop, fasten the silk securely, and cut off. Now bind the tassel round aboat a quarter of an inch below tho last binding, comb out the wool, and cut the edges even for the tassel. NETTED MITTEN. Six or seven skeins of line netting silk or black twist are needed for a pair of mittens ; and for tho mesh use knitting pins Nos. 13 and 14 (Walker's bell gauge), and a small steel netting needle. Work twelvo rows of diagonal netting (shown in No. 15, pago 126). Net fifty rows plain netting on the smaller mesh ; then work two patterns of honoycomb netting (No. 14. page 126). This completes the arm, which join up; and net round one plain row. 2nd Round : Increase by netting two stitches in one in twelfth and fourteenth stitches to begin the thumb, the rest of tho round is plain netting. Increase two loops to form the thumb in each of the two loops already mentioned in each alternate round for eigh- teen rounds. To finish the thumb, net round about ten rounds on tho stitches of tho thumb, and finish with a little fan pattern made by netting six stitches into one loop of previous round, pass over one loop, one stitch into tho next, pass over one loop, and repeat. This round should be worked over a quarter-inch mesh. In the follow- ing round work ono stitch into each loop of preceding round, using the small mesh. Now continue to work upon the hand until it is as long as you desire, and finish with the fan pattern gi von for the top of the thumb. Both hands aro worked alike, as there is no right or wrong sido until you darn a pattern on the back of the hand, which may be of stripes, diamonds, or any design you please. NETTED NIGHT-NET. This night-net is particularly recommended to per- sons who suffer from headache, as it keeps the hair closely together without any pressure on tho head. MATERIALS Rkqcirkd: Crochet cotton No. 4, notting* ncedlo, and mosh about quarter*! rich wide. Commence with twenty-two stitches, and net back- wards and forwards fifteen rows, and then take ©ut the foundation thread, draw it through the middle of the oblong. Now work round and make one knot in each stitch of the preceding row ; there must be eighteen rows netted round, or more if not largo enough ; then follows the broad row for the ribbon to pass through. For this take a half-inch mesh, or"put the cotton twice round the small mesh at every stitch. After this broad row work two rows over the first mesh, then follows the narrow lace for the outer edge ; for this, net one row over the broad mesh, making always five knots in one stitch, passing over the next stitch. Now take again the small mesh, and pass over again in each row the same stitches that were passed over in the first row, whilst in the rest one stitch must bo made in each stitch of preceding row until there is only one stitch to work, and the next to pass over alternately. This ends the laco. Draw a ribbon through tfje broad row of netting, and tie it at the back, and sew on the bow at the top. NETTED CURTAINS. Netted curtains are generally preferred made of square netting. To begin, you must work as for the square and oblong netting described in Nos. 10 and 13, in page 22. The size of cotton will of course rule the size of tho mesh and the quantity of cotton re- quired. Evans' (Boar's Head cotton), about 0000, will make a nico curtain, worked quite plainly, and edged with a fancy border in netting or a row of ball fringo. For a coarser curtain, Strutt's knitting cotton No. 10, mesh, knitting-pin No. 10 (Walker's bell gauge). A curtain about tlireo yards and a-half long would require 350 stitches. This could be worked with rows of plain netting, and any of the fancy stripes which we have illustrated and described in our Fancy Net- ting Supplements. The rose and plain pattern shown ,on page 121 will make very beautiful curtains worked in Strutt's crochet cotton No. 12. with a mesh knit- ting-pin No. 12 (Walker's bell gauge). ['VHK KM'. **HMB0- ADVERTISEMENTS. PEACOCK ART CREWELS , 4 I »,'/..!' . „ *» AX IN SHADES. FAUDEL'S Filoselle. Best Quality in Every Shade. FAUDEL'S Art Crewel Embroidery Silk. rnWL,U Id., 1H„ and 2d. Skeins. Plain and Shaded. WMJDEXJ^Art Shaded Silk Braids. I /-\w*-r F r the New Braiding Designs. 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