Cornell University

 

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The Feather’s practical

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Copyright, 1903
by
GEO, EF, HOWARD
Washington D.C.
THE FEATHER’S —
PRACTICAL

PIGEON

 

Book

By J.C. LONG

Profusely Illustrated

 

: Published by
GEO, E. HOWARD

WASHINGTON, D, C,

3
AgG.2%80
Publisher's Note

“«

Those who are interested in pigeons will appreciate fully
this contribution to pigeon literature by the eminent author,
J. C. Long, who has for a life-time devoted himself to the
study of these dainty and attractive pets. Mr. Long’s experi-
ence as a breeder and judge of pigeons admirably fitted him
for the task, and the publisher is pleased to recommend this
book to everyone who cares for the pleasures of pigeon keep-
ing. In this connection he desires to acknowledge the meri-
torious work of illustrating by R. Clements. The plates shown
in this book are from brush drawings portraying artistic skill
and are fine portraitures of the specimens they represent, and
can but prove of untold value to every fancier and breeder.

The Publisher
 

 

CONTENTS.

Page
The Origin of Fancy Pigeons....................0005: 7
Accommodations for Pigeons................e00ece eens 19
Food and Feeding.............0. 0c cece cceec ce caecenees 43
What Varieties to Breed............ 0.0. cece eee ee eee ee 5I
Mating for Breeding..............0. ccc cece cece eee eens 63
The Pleasure of Pigeon Keeping....................... 93
Diseases of Pigeons............. ceeds ceuceccevesceecens 11g
Diseases of the Head, Brain, and Nervous System....... 120
Apoplexy 120
Werte: a2 vx cwaimustnrerecciediciacde abastuonarenvinn bee ; 122
Paralysis 122
Inflammation of the Eye............. cc ce cee ee ce eeeeee 123
SPOUtS: pe'vaesccwttenuel vie cnealocheme rads ea ee emo 123
Megrims .¢220cvsswa vas creck aeteeees wextee iT etaaeieaies T24,
SPMIMMOES 566i Riess aitpeccasveary area terete dar «Gol dyu alee bine ivtancaubnededtcr ls 126
ROUD ucchastevsue Sct cacetueaaetecn tl ua erase ASRS Gar ose a a NomnaseDeee aS 126
Crossed, Billst acs asccuntigenwoutire  rsmsedetiay cers aii ee ee ne aaeaS 128
Pipi xe aatstictie sale einen eeace 2 love manasa. oe wen oS 128
Smallpox sss sccewiecsies Gs eae Si, 5 San ce sae SRC 130
Diseases of the Lungs and Throat...............0.00005 130
PANS TTA” coisa dred earpthasrorbiauaiivasase drosapraneomianyn sie a entrraromeneeecaveds 130
Consumption or Going Light...................0.-0000- 131
Canker csc vseen as mogeamas se bases eye Sheds ese nena 132
Inflammation of the Lungs................. 00. ceeeeeee 135
Diseases of the Digestive Organs............... 02-00 ee 135
HoulkCrop: Gaciiinncascan ated praptantamnenneers Seemann 137
Diarrhoea: sues: ve seein ey ny ome ee anaes ee DES 137
Choleta:  cccmeceeine sd cee dates Gods se CaaS EAR RES 132
WSO TANASE ce gexsage Ga cea uhegtve tceccneas each wl dash elon cecosninlantncneendes wee. 138
Liver’ (Comiplaitite: <cccccsscostscriea sed. d inc eeeseservineseue einvelee aod Braves 138
Prolapsus or Fallen Gizzard : 140
Constipation, svesg ie ye van ieesem ie vere ee eeseeee ew ts 140
Diseases: OF the: Sk 2c c5i4 piece sacs bao a Whee Geitaesann Foe S 140
Scurf or Mange,...... aero eipsndbtathcctets dae Saplendadtanest aeeetys 140
Moline’ cxccncaanastets oeeiniida gs eee gee oaeeey 141
Inflammation of the Oil-Gland.............0..0-. 02000 141
Diséases: of the Limbs... cc. evewe. oes ees araeeeweee ses 142
SETI S teh sehccey sesso esos pce oy tsck Aves epurtdatoer 2G aseVeeb tadssansloutnasaisosics see 142
Cramps! <5 sccnentgee cae Dat woperarorn tenner Rien eints Soakteas 143
Diseases of the Egg-Organs...........- secre eee cece eee 143
Bag Bound) ..ieaiessead ti s36e ee ERE ee oor, 143
Barrenness ..........-.56% tel cd esos eoeonseenapeinenamer als mh SiSianae vie 146
Fractures and Wounds......... 0.0.00 c eee e cece eens 146
Broken: Beaks: cs cucuscieure wis weleauae see eee Camieare oe TAZ
Torn Crops and other Flesh Wounds............-.-+.+6: 147
THSECE. PASSES secsinsten ci2 3 soca susaandihdseeoncdrayaan uh apesgvassvene daoce Hoaneovetasticnant . 148
TRIG C schdciige se ate recesbasl., pia wen Sie. doer aaaipiusinalenetohel ove avece sous favredeuadedtys 148
Weather Lice: is <5 224s aneakenenus oo mshanaind eae ceases 150
MiteS: sc siaravonciod sae tan eaeeeae yaaa amine sss eee 150
LCAGY «Sus devcbusseniechar eecdrane se apionernnti ma MaeMeumesetise? | eteplxcunies I5I
PUET CICS ahs ee eta shekce cs tds yi pcb ame ee, Anse Mae oaenbys Gib Reba feenhte 152
Pigeons: as Fo0ds:s.: can grewernins ve premedende es ~ eres 155
Technical Terms......... ssisstavabocesnetinne scalaatpan nabs ver aes 163

5
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Aviary for ‘Lotts;, ‘Plan (Of. sisisc sie 6 0 Sautebacsael ad eid areseiecs
Archamp el say siscaseiorecaes es ors. os sypainiailr oars telace: ety wuaieee ohana) a at Sala
Baths 4e sou ee: cies a Pane eas wikuaennie ee Mine reaver ease eee
BIWCtte: sw iccswacSnaneen ee wrutiets 25 O64 shes ean ae
Blondinette, Black-Laced............. cc cee eee cee ee eee
Carrier Cocks Bluéiisaren iccna swtivenian fous akboamar dae aaceke
Dragoon, Blues. wessaudevewds as Geere ane tee Sedans eee eats
Fountain, Water ......... pao sicbacnionas dueageoaeeaptnseu Stub atenson
ATMs es esa nc saeb cn chstinke cates, toace a case seen ie se caabcc pote Coaeeraans
Fantail, Black Saddleback .......... 0. cece cece cece eee
House, A Combination............ 00sec cee cece eeeeeee
House for the Back Yard, Plan of................000008
House for the Back Yard, A....... ccc ccc cee eee ee
House; Duplex: Plan’ Obs wesevws voce ons oe sak wets eae
House,. Duplex, Thescic.e ccc cscesganacrs ecb avedaadasas
House, Simple Continuous, Plan of.....2.......000000e
House, Simple Continuous, A... ..... ccc e ee eee eee eee
Hopper, Wooden Food............ccccecceeeee eee eeeeen
Hopper, Metal Food or Water Fountain................
Heads;,. Dideratt: ie ncctiod eae <6 cataoaistancens Dewees oes
Heads, Didetam., 1.24 .ccciea oars vacancy tere dawaaweese
Jacobin;: ‘Blacks v02-:.dceauranides cok eocneantiee ee a4 enews
Legs, Diagram of: $s caveat sa ce 05 tis. feehead Sadd-o Die Rousterdeenisee
Magpie, Black............... Splat bust nstaw acetate Ga temahaaseualy ee
Nests; Plat Of :2c.c0 clcscmisesnee meer maniien eedndid See EN wails ontnala 48
INUIT} cn nnaccica ashame Magyant esas cian Metawie vee d Semalas a5 ers
Owl) Afticaty ich exe cadet eae: Sut Algeedtamaetalie Sa
Owl, Bing lish 2 ciscaeciacteiscccscia nha june naleiadhperce "on auenawcute
Pigeons, Baskets for Shipping or Carrying. .............
Pigeon, Method of Holding............... ccc ceseeeeces
Pigeons, All Kinds of Perches for..........00ecsccaeues
Pigeons, Points of a......... cc ccc ccc uceceeeseecceneeas
Pouter ‘Cock; Blue. c.cec sc cen caw naive nie sv ecen dale:
Pouter Cock, Black-pied
Pouter, Pigmy
MO ALINEC ES: Sed dua ch chien eeaaudia seu ee oie Saye en
Tumbler Cock, Almond........ 0.0.0 c ese ceecencuuecece.
Tumbler, Muffed Rosewing...................0.2..2...
Tumbler Cock, Muffed-Silver, Long-faced
Turbit Hen, Yellow
Turbit, Black-wing.
Wing, Diagram of

6

a ee
CHAPTER I

THE ORIGIN OF Fancy PIGEONS

The term pigeon is derived from the Latin word
Pipio, which ttanslated literally means a nestling ‘bird
that “pipes” or cries out, or as we know it in America
a “‘squealer.” The pigeon proper belongs to a family of
birds known as Columbidae, comprising all the different
varieties of doves, as well as pigeons, and forming the
genus Columba. They are generally classed among
gallinaceous birds, but as they resemble both the orders
Rassores (Scrapers or Scratchers) and Insessories
(Perchers) they have by some naturalists been consti-
tuted into a distinct order between the two.

While they resemble the order Gallinacea, in that
their bills are comparatively short and slightly curved
with a cartilaginous scale, through which their nostrils -
are pierced, and in their large crops and blunt claws,
they differ from them in their monogamus habits, their
living in pairs, and in the fact that the male shares with
the female the duties of incubation and of feeding the
young.

Their young, unlike those of the Gallinacea which are
able to run as soon as they are hatched, are born blind
and helpless and consequently must be fed by the parent
birds. By a wonderful and singular provision of
Nature, as the period of incubation draws to an end,
the food taken by the old birds into their crops softens,
and is changed into a milky fluid, known to naturalists
as “pigeon’s milk.” This “milk” is injected into the
mouths of the young birds, by a peculiar spramodic

7
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

action of the crop and neck of the parents, ‘who take
the beak of the young birds in their mouths for that
purpose. This manner of feeding is kept up until the
young bird is able to care for itself, which will be in
about six weeks’ time.

The number of species of the family Columbidae is
very great, and they are found in all warm and temper-
ate climates. Our fancy pigeons, the descendants of the
true pigeons Columba Livia and Columba Affinis of
which I propose treating entirely, are gregarious in
their habits, social in their nature, and live in flocks,
though still retaining their monogamus practice.

The origin of our various breeds of fancy pigeons is.
in a measure veiled in mystery. Pigeons have existed
and been the companions of man, so to speak, from the
earliest’ period of which we have any history, mention
being made of them in ancient manuscripts written in
the Hindu, Sanscrit, Arabian, and Persian languages,
as also in various books of the Old Testament. The
earliest record is said by learned writers to have oc-
curred 3,000 years B. C. But whether the great variety
of fancy pigeons we know at the present day have all
descended, as many eminent naturalists maintain, from
the Blue Rock Pigeon or Rock Dove, “Columba Livia,”
and the Chequered Dove House Pigeon, Columba
Affints,’ peculiar to the various countries of the Old
World, is the question.

That some of our Toy Pigeons owe their origin to
them there is no doubt, but such pigeons as the Carrier,
Pouter, Barb, Fantail, Jacobin, and others, present char-
acteristics of such marked peculiarity as to cause think-
ing men to believe that they have an origin distinct from
the Blue Rock. Blut if such is actually the case, the
varieties from which they sprang must now be extinct,
Ss

e
    

BASKET FOR SHIPPING OR
CARRYING PIGEONS

 
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book.

for nowhere in a state of nature are any breeds of pig-
cons found with peculiarities that can mark them as the
progenitors of any of those varieties we know to-day
as high-class pigeons.

Darwin, than whom there is no better modern author-
ity, made deep research in this direction. Being an
ardent pigeon fancier himself, he had the best of oppor-
tunities to study their construction and habits, and at
first inclined to the belief that most fancy pigeons
sprang from separate sources, but giving it thought and
being so led to experiment in crossing, he found that
the tendency was to continually revert to the common
origin, and that in the end his crosses produced a blue
pigeon, with white rump and black bars on the wings
like the Blue Rock.

We all know how, by proper selection, we can, after
a time, breed all the fancy qualities out of a pigeon and
have nothing left, as it were, but the frame or founda-
tion. For instance, take the Fantail; by selecting the
poorest specimens of a flock, we can, by continued
breeding, bring them down to what we call a common
pigeon with twelve feathers in the tail, and as distinct
in shape and action from the Fan as well can be.

So this process of evolution upward, while necessarily
slower than the breaking-down process, can, by the se-
lection of the fittest, finally be brought about. Doubtless
our ancient pigeon fanciers taking advantage of some
marked peculiarity in some of their feathered pets by
crossing them together fixed these qualities, and so by
careful selection of their progeny and mating back to
the parents, a variety distinct from the Blue Rock was
established. From this variety it may be there was a
sport, and this again being protected and preserved, es-
tablished another variety. This is, of course, all con-

Io
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Bgok

jecture, for there is no written nor known history to
establish this fact, but as all the experiments and study
of Darwin and other naturalists point to the Blue Rocks
as the common origin of fancy pigeons, we who have
not given the matter deep thought and scrutiny, as we
can not bring convincing proof to contradict, can do no
better than accept this theory, and believe in the prin-
ciple of evolution and the survival of the fittest as ap-
plied to the pigeon family.

The Blue Rock Pigeon or Rock Dove and the Cheq-
uered Dove House Pigeon, are what are known as true
pigeons, and differ from the Dove proper, in that they
are not arboreal in their habits and are of a domestic
rather than a roving disposition, preferring to live in
colonies and having a fixed abode, and being capable
_of domestication. They are found in most parts of
Europe, Asia, and Africa in a wild state, making their
homes about cliffs and among the rocks and caves where
they live in large families, never going far from home.
They build their nests on the rocks and they are com-
posed of twigs, rough grasses, and other coarse ma-
terial placed loosely together. The female lays two
white eggs, and they produce several pairs in a season,
the male assisting the female in the work of incubation.
The Blue Rock is rather smaller than the Dove House
Pigeon, and, as its name would indicate, has plumage of
a light grayish-blue, with a beautiful tinge of green —
about the neck, variegated with purple and bronze reflec-
tions. The head is quite long, eyes orange-red, the beak
thin and black in color, legs short, feet red and tipped
with nails the color of the bill. Across the lower part of
the wings are two black parallel bars, the rump is white,
the tail narrow, composed of twelve feathers, each end-
ing in a black bar which, when closed, forms a bar

i
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

 

across the tail. This type of pigeon is so often seen
among our flocks of domestic pigeons that there will be
no difficulty in recognizing it and proving its claim as
one of the ancestors of our domestic flocks at least.
The Dove House Pigeon (Columba Affinis) is another
wild variety of pigeon peculiar to all parts of the Old
World, and supposed by many to be the true progenitor
of our whole family of domestic pigeons. Like the
Blue Rock, it frequents rocks, cliffs, and caverns, but
is more susceptible of domestication than the true Rock.
It is a trifle larger in size and differs from it somewhat
in color, being a trifle darker and with wing-coverts
chequered or dappled; in other respects it is the counter-
part of the other. It is also said to be more prolific than
the Blue Rock, and, if taken young, easily tamed and
domesticated, and does not retain the wild, suspicious
nature of the Blue Rock. But while this variety in its
instincts and habits seems to have good grounds on
which to base its right to be called the originator of all
our fancy breeds, there is no evidence to prove that it
may not have derived its own origin as claimed by Dar-
win, from the Blue Rock. This, however, is a question
J am not inclined to argue, as its settlement can not
affect the status of the pigeon as we know it to-day.
Admitting, as scientific research seems to prove, that
these two varieties of wild pigeons are the source from
_ which all our common and fancy pigeons sprung, it
seems strange that we see none of the variations in form
and shape to-day among our common flocks that must
some time have formed a basis from which to breed
such birds as the Carrier, the Pouter, the Jacobin, and
the host of feathered beauties we now know. Who in
our time has ever heard or known of anyone producing
from common pigeons any breed of fancy pigeons that
12
 

 

 

 
  

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ALL KINDS OF PERCHES FOR PIGEONS

13

 
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

could lay claim to an established variety, breeding true
like the Barb, the Turbit, or the Owl? Yet it seems
. strange if such sports occurred in earlier times that we
never see an instance of it now. Taking this all into
consideration, is there not apparently good grounds for
the belief that some entertain, that a number at least
of our fancy pigeons must have had a more aristocratic
origin than the wild Blue Rock?

I have here given a short history of the supposed
origin of our domestic pigeons, and now turn to the
pigeon as we know it in the United Stes. The only
bird known to us as a pigeon, indigenous to the United
States, is the wild or “Passenger Pigeon.” This bird
being strictly arboreal in its habits, that is, making its
home in the woods and building its nests and perching
in trees, is more properly a dove, and, therefore, the
term pigeon is a misnomer. In form and snape it varies
greatly from the true pigeon, and while an occasional
specimen has been kept alive in the lofts of some fan-
ciers, it can not, be said to be capable of domestica-
tion, for, as a rule, it does not brook confinement and
soon pines away and dies.

As we find by this that we have no pigeons native to
this country, we must naturally infer that all our com-
mon and fancy pigeons have been imported from for-
eign countries, but from what particular section of the
Old World they first came history does not inform us.
It is reasonable to suppose, however, that they were in-
troduced by both the English and Dutch settlers, as
both nations are known to have had lovers and breeders
of pigeons before the United States were first settled.

Naturally after becoming domiciled in their new
homes and finding nothing of the kind native to the
country the first settlers must have had a longing for a

14
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A COMBINATION HOUSE

The plan shown here is one that will meet with uni-
versal favor with the fancier who has limited space, and
desires to keep poultry in connection with pigeons. It
is a two-storied building, with the lower half arranged
for poultry and the upper half for pigeons, with an
aviary on two ends. It is unnecessary to give detailed
plans of the building, which, of course, would have to
be varied to suit the-convenience of the builder. The
house should be substantially built, and have steps or
ladder leading from the first to the second floor. The
windows in front of house should be covered with mesh
wire to prevent escape of birds.

15

 

 
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

few of their old companions, and so some of the return-

ing ships were commissioned to_bring out on their re- |
turn trip a few pairs. Thus, no doubt; was the founda- '
tion laid for the immense numbers: now owned. -and bred |

every season throughout the Union.. It, may be that,

the Huguenots were among the first to introdice them,
‘as, in my researches, 1. find that. many of them were

weavers of ‘silk and other fabrics, and great fanciers °

of pigeons and birds, and that when driyen out of

France into’ England they took their pets with them,-

‘settling in and about | Spitalsfield, which we “know is a
great. center of fanciers to-day. “In ‘course of time many

Huguenots found-their way to America, and it. is ‘not -
unreasonable to suppose brought some of their pets with :
them and thus aided in laying a foundation for.the fancy -

here. :

From inquiries made some years ago, however, Iam
inclined to bélieve that Philadelphia and Baltimore were
about the first ports through which: fancy pigeons were
introduced, and as these cities have long been great pig-
con centers, I think this will tend to bear me out in my
belief. As far back as I have been able to trace is about
:25 years, and pigeons, were then owned and bred in
Philadelphia. Neither New York nor Boston, to my
knowledge, furnishes any record ‘of importations pre-
vious to this. What St. Augustine or New Orleans
might furnish.I am unable to say, but probably, although
these points were among our earliest settled, no record
of so small a matter to the earlier historians was ever
kept, and so the subject is shrouded in oblivion. In
these later days we know that fancy pigeons have been
brought to us from England, Scotland, Belgium, Ger-
many, the Mediterranean districts, and from India, and
from these infportations large families have descended

16
 

 

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BS

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PLAN OF AVIARY FOR LOFTS

This arrangement is admirably adapted to those who
are not situated so as to have room for the construc-
tion of a separate house, and desire to keep a few pig-
eons for the pleasure of it. Such an arrangement is
easily applied to the lofts of barns, stables, and other
outbuildings on the place with excellent results. No
extensive alterations are necessary, and the interior of
loft may be made to conform with the plans hereafter
shown.
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

to delight America’s fanciers, both old and young.
Thanks to the energies of these fanciers, the quality of
their pigeons has reached a higher standard to-day than
has ever been known before, and to help maintain this
standard and keep up the interest of young fanciers this
work is published.

18
CHAPTER II

 

ACCOMMODATIONS FOR PIGEONS

Having, as it were, in the preceding chapter, confirm-
ed our belief in the origin of our numerous families of
domestic and fancy pigeons, we pass to a subject of ful-
ly as much, if not more, importance to the amateur and
novice, that of providing proper accommodations for
the pretty pets.

Pigeons can be bred and raised almost anywhere that
shelter can be provided, and they sometimes do with
very little shelter; in fact, I have seen them make a
home in a common soap-box, nailed to the side of a barn,
where they seemed as happy and contented as in more
luxurious quarters. The flocks I have in mind were
quite numerous and were accommodated with shelter
by nailing a variety of small boxes to the gable end of
a barn; here they raised their young, and I have seen
squealers in the nest, with the snow all about the sides
of the boxes, and the mystery was that they had not
frozen to death; but they seemed fat and hearty, and
there was no question raised as to their hardiness. Such
a life must naturally produce a hardy race, but would
not likely prove successful with the majority of high-
class and Toy Pigeons. But while they may succeed with
‘limited and unpretending quarters, still accommodations
that allow of their being well cared for, and in which
they can be visited with comfort and pleasure, are with-
out doubt the most satisfactory to the breeder and fan-
cier.

These accommodations can be suited to the space

19
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book.

available by the fancier. It may be a box nailed against
the gable end of the house or barn; it may be a limited
space in the peak of the same; it may be a larger room
in that house or barn, or it may be a commodious build-
ing erected for the purpose in the rear of the home lot.
Wherever your fancy dictates or your means will allow,
there can your pigeons find a home. They are not fas-
tidious, no pride governs their choice, and they build,
breed, and raise their little families as happily and con-
tentedly in a rough box as in the most conveniently and
comfortably arranged aviary. So if you can do no
better and must have a few pigeons, take a box about
10 inches deep, divide it into as many apartments Io
inches square as size of your box will allow, then cut
holes in the bottom of the box to correspond with each
of the apartments you have made, say 4 inches wide
and 5 inches high, nail an alighting-board 4 inches wide
and 6 inches long to the floor of each apartment, letting
as much as possible of the board project through the
holes you have cut, after giving it a secure attachment
to the floor of its apartment. When all this is done, you
can fasten it to the side of any building, or fence even,
if high enough from the ground to be out of the reach
of cats and dogs. By placing the open side of the box .
to the building, it answers in place of back and saves
adding weight to it by nailing on a back.

As far as possible place it in a position facing the
south, and protected from the cold northerly winds.
Also make it water-tight, if you can, by covering with
some water-proof material. This will make a, very
primitive pigeon-house, but I have known many a boy
made happy over a no more elegant house, and the pig-
eons are just as happy here as in a palace. The house
can be placed high enough to be reached by a short lad-

20
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

der and thus surely be out of harm’s way. After the
house is arranged and your pigeons mated, by confin-
ing the pairs in the little apartments for a week or so,
they will become wonted and be likely to stay and live
contentedly in their new home.

A house can be made with quarter pitch roof if one is
handy with tools, or a carpenter can be employed to
make one that will accommodate six or eight pairs, by
making an upper and a lower floor, and dividing. each
into three or four apartments with entrances apart from
each other, that is on each side of the house, and not
directly over each other. This can be erected on a pole,
and reached when necessary by a ladder. Finished and
painted neatly it can be made very ornamental.

If you have an out-building of any kind, where a
commodious room can be arranged, looking to the
south, you can arrange more elaborate quarters and be
able to enjoy your birds in a greater degree, likewise
controlling their actions more directly. This room needs
plenty of light, and should be provided with one or two
large windows even if you have to place them there
yourself. Before arranging the nesting-places, get
some old roofing-tin, cut it into strips 2 feet wide,
nail this all around the sides where the floor and the
walls unite, letting it project 6 or 8 inches over the
floor, and the balance up the sides of the walls; this will
render it proof against rats and mice, the bane of pigeon
breeders. Cover every weak spot where you think the
vermin can get in, with pieces of tin, then give it a
thorough coating of whitewash or white paint, as pig-
eons are fond of white, and you are ready to place your
nesting-boxes and perches.

First arrange a tier of shelves about 15 inches wide
and 12 inches apart; divide these into apartments about

2t
 

 

FLIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

PLAN OF HOUSE FOR THE BACK YARD |

The plan herewith shown is an excellent one for the
fancier who has a backyard and desires a special house
for his birds. The dimensions of houses may be varied
to suit the size of yard, running from fence to fence.
The framework should be substantially built, and board-
ed on the otttside with tongued and grooved siding; the
inner side should be boarded also with the same kind of
material, and, if possible, the space between the walls
should be filled with sawdust. The floor should be
made of tongued and grooved material securely nailed
to the timbers below. The underneath part of the roof
should be lined with the same material as the sides,
and the outside of roof should be shingled or covered
with tin. Where the house joins the fence the cracks
should be well covered to prevent rain from leaking
through, and every precaution should be taken to keep
the interior of house free from dampness.

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

18 to 20 inches long, by upright partitions reaching out
flush with the edge of the shelf. This gives an apartment
for each pair, gives them the seclusion they prefer, and
prevents in a measure quarrelling, a condition of affairs
very necessary to successful breeding.

These little apartments can be again sub-divided by a
half partition, say 11 inches long and 5 inches high; this
allows space for two nesting-boxes or pans, whichever
is used, and permits of the hen making a second nest
before the young are ready to leave the first, and allow-
ing the old birds to carry on the incubating process
without being annoyed by the youngsters begging to be
fed, as they are continually doing when not separated
from the parent birds. In front of this middle partition
place a strip about 3 inches wide extending from side
to side; this will keep the nest-pans in place, and pre-
vent the squabs coming to the front of the apartment
should they work themselves out of the nest, and falling
to the floor, where they are liable to be maltreated and
killed by old birds of other pairs. Occasionally you will
find birds, both male and female, so kindly tempered as
to feed every young squab that comes to them to be fed;
but they are few, and it is to guard against the vicious
that I advise this precaution.

To the front of every nesting-place I would have
fitted a movable wire door or screen made of two-inch
mesh wire. This will enable you to confine your pairs
to the particular nest you select for them until they be-
come settled, when it can be removed entirely and laid
aside until needed again. The fastening of these doors
to the apartment can be made a matter of choice; either
hanging them on the side, so as to swing outward, or
suspending them from the shelf above, so as to raise
upward. Or they can be made in form of two doors, one

24
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

\o swing to the right and one to the left. This I think
the better form, as then you can leave one of the doors
closed before the nest in which the hen is sitting, thus
partially secluding her.

For nests there is nothing better than the circular
earthern nest-pan, found at the poultry-supply stores,
and made in sizes of 9, 10, and 12 inches diameter, the
g-inch being for the smaller class of pigeons, like Tum-
blers, Owls, etc., while the 10-inch answers for the
medium-sized pigeons, and the 12-inch for Pouters,
Runts, and Carriers. But you may be in a locality
where such nests can not be found; in such a case tin
pans can be used, such as are made from block tin,
pressed. These can be nailed to a square wooden foun-
dation, thus making them movable and preventing them
from being upset. Or you can make square wooden
boxes of same width as diameter of the pans.: If boxes
are used the corners should be fitted with triangular
corner-blocks to keep the nesting-material towards the
center. If the tin pans or wooden boxes are used I
would advise giving them a good coating of paint. This
will act as a preventive against lice, and make them
easier to clean.

For nest-material there can be nothing better than
pine sawdust, as this can be frequently changed and also
has a tendency to keep insects away. Cedar sawdust is
even better if one lives in a locality where it can be pro-
cured. You will also need perches in different parts of
the room for the convenience of birds not nesting.
These can be made of half-inch material, 4 inches wide.
Take two pieces 5 or 6 inches long, nail two ends to-
gether, thus forming the two sides of an angle. Hang
these on ten-penny nails, driven into the walls in various
places’ separate from each other. These make the hest

25
 

FOOD HOPPER FOOD HOPPER
fd [e3}

HOUSE HOUSE

FLIGHT

 

PLAN OF DUPLEX HOUSE

The Duplex House may be built separately or fitted to
a wall and will comfortably house from forty to fifty
birds, except in the mating season when the number
must be considerably lessened if the wished-for success
is to be attained. The arrangement of the duplicate
compartments allowing the sexes to be divided, as they
should always be except in the breeding séason, and
the overhead loft giving freedom for a few pairs of
common pigeons to be used as feeders, are decided ad-
vantages of this house.
 

 

 

THE DUPLEX HOUSE

27
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

of perches, are easily moved for cleaning, and as they
accommodate but one pigeon prevent quarrelling.

To every loft such as I have just described there
should be an outside area or “‘fly” attached for the pur-
pose of giving your birds, when confined, a place to sun
and air themselves. This can be located immediately in
front of your windows, or to one, side as convenient,
but should, like the windows, be on the sunny side
of the house. It can be made as large as you
deem advisable, and should have perches distributed
about, such as are described for use in the loft. Cover
it with two-inch mesh wire on sides and top, having
the bottom or platform of wood made tight. If you in-
tend permitting the birds perfect liberty after a time, to
go and come as they please, you will need to construct
a falling door, either on one side or the front. ‘This can
be hung on hinges and controlled by a rope and pulleys,
sc as to be lowered and raised at will. This door need
not be over 8 inches wide and 2 feet long, unless you
desire it. Two pieces should project from the platform
for it to rest on when down, and in this form it will an-
swer as an alighting-board for pigeons returning to
the loft.

There should also be two or three sets of what are
known as bolting-wires. At some place in the area cut
the wire away and insert a board 2 feet long and 8
inches wide. In this board cut-three holes 4 inches
wide and 5 inches high, rounded at the top. Project from
these holes an alighting-strip 4 inches wide and 8 inches
long, fastening one end to the platform of the area.
Take a round stick 1 inch in diameter (an old broom-
handle will answer), saw this into pieces 31% inches
long. “ Bore a hole 34 of an inch deep in the middle of
the stick, and an inch each way bore other holes of

28
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

same depth; take pieces of common telegraph-wire 5
inches long and insert in these holes solidly as far as
their depth will allow. Then bore in each end of the
stick other holes an inch deep; in these insert pieces of
wire 2 inches long, These answer for axles, as it were,
for the bolting-wire to move on. After this is finished
put a screw-eye on the left of the opening made in the
board near thé top, then insert one end of the axle in
this. Place another eye on the opposite side, opening
the eye so as to permit the other axle to slip into place.
This you will see gives you a little swinging gate that
should just about fit the hole cut in the board. By plac-
ing another piece of wire across the bottom of the hole
just so the ends of the longer wires hit it, you prevent
it swinging outward, while it opens easily to the inside.
The object of this is to allow any belated pigeons admis-
sion to the loft after the falling door is closed, and yet
preventing any from leaving until the door is again
opened. Pigeons soon learn to know the purpose for
which this is intended, and avail themselves of it.
When possible, a building erected for the purpose
and one story in height I consider the best. This saves
climbing stairs and ‘consequently is much more easily
taken care of than a second-floor loft. Where built for
the purpose it can just as well be made rat, cat, and
even man and boy proof, as a more elevated room. By
excavating the ground for about a foot in depth, filling
this in with cinders or broken stone, and then giving
it a coating of asphalt, you have a rat-proof floor, and
one that is easily cleaned at all times, besides being
free from dampness. Covered a few inches deep
with clean, white sand or pine saw-dust, it will keep
sweet and clean for a long time, especially if occasion-
ally raked with a fine-tooth rake, and all refuse that

29
PERCHES PERCHES

HOUSE

_ FLIGHT

 

PLAN OF SIMPLE CONTINUOUS HOUSE

The design shown is a very simple, and at the same
time a very good one to follow. The illustration shows
two houses, but for those who desire more than two, it
is only necessary to continue the plan as shown until
the required number are built. The general details of
construction as given for other houses will apply equally
as well to this, excepting that where a large number
are to be built in a row, it would be necessary to have
doors between each partition, or a passage-way at rear
running entire length of building. Brick foundation
should be used when building a large number of houses.

30
 

 

 

 

 

 

A SIMPLE CONTINUOUS HOUSE

31
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

may gather be carefully removed. It should be made
of good seasoned stuff, well battened on the outside and
provided with plenty of windows facing the south and
made to swing outwards. These can then be protected
on the inside by wire netting, which will neither exclude *
light nor air. The roof should be tight and can be
either a pitch or shed-roof as fancy dictates.

Attached to the building, as location permits, should
be a large area or flight, enclosed on top and sides with
wire netting, the first 3 feet from the ground being of
1-inch, the balance of 2-inch mesh; the 1-inch mesh pre-
venting rats, weasels, and other vermin from gaining
access from this source. Near the top can be arranged
a door to fall downwards on to brackets, and thus allow-
ing the pigeons, if desired, more liberty, and answering
at the same time as an alighting-board or shelf when
they return from a flight. This can be arranged with
pulleys or reached by a ladder as the owner sees fit.
The interior can be fitted with shelves for nests, and
these nests made stationary or movable as inclination
suggests, but I regard movable nests as the best, for
then they can be easily cleaned, and when thought
necessary to give the room a thorough white-washing,
all can be taken out and there be but little obstruction ,
to the work.

The little inverted V-shaped perches common in well-
appointed pigeon-lofts, and previously mentioned,
should be plenty, and placed on the sides of the building
away from the nests, and these also should be movable
so they can be frequently taken down and cleaned. By
placing them one under the other, it prevents the bird
above from soiling the plumage of the one under it, and
as but one bird can occupy each, it also prevents quar-
relling.

32
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

The size of the building can be: suited to the wants
of the fancier, and be governed by the space he can de-
vote to it, and also to the number he intends to accom-
modate. I would say in addition, do not, if you want
to enjoy your birds, get it too small. A building of this
kind could be put to other uses if the time came, as it
eventually does to most Americans, when other matters
require their attention and the hobby has to be relin-
quished.

From these descriptions the reader can deduce his
own conclusions, and arrange such accommodations as
his necessity and means demand and will admit of. He
must also be governed by the number and variety he
desires or intends to keep, and fashion his house accord-
ingly. As a guide as to dimensions, I will say that a
room 15x12 by 8 feet high will easily accommodate fifty
pairs of birds. I would also add that all rooms should
be provided with an extra wire partition so that young
birds just out of the nest can be kept apart from the
breeding pairs, and, also, so that when the breeding sea-
son is over the cocks may be separated from the hens,
as for the good of the hens it is better to keep the sexes.
apart during the molting season and extreme cold
weather. Otherwise’ the hens will be wasting their
vitality by laying, hatching, and feeding at a time when
they need to be recuperating for the spring and sum-
mer’s work.

These remarks apply.to such as have high-class birds
and the conveniences to control them, and not to the
owner of common birds, who uses the primitive house I
have described, and allows his pigeons to live in a com-
parative state of nature, and under no control. In cases
where they are allowed to “shift” for themselves, nature
must be allowed to take its course, let the results be

3 33
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

what they may; and, strange to say, results are often
more satisfactory, as far as increase in numbers is con-
cerned, than when they receive the best of care.

Having provided the loft or house, as it may be, seen
that it is well painted or whitewashed, and guarded
against the admission of rats, mice, and cats, we turn
our attention to the necessary furniture for the conveni-
ence of the pigeons. This need not be abundant, nor
elaborate in its character, but should be movable, and
constructed so as to admit of economy and cleanliness
in its use. First will be needed a hopper, or hoppers,
for I believe it economy where you have several kinds
of feed to have a hopper for each kind, as each pigeon
has a different taste, some preferring corn to wheat or
peas, and, again, others preferring peas to either wheat
or corn.

If the three are mixed together in one hopper, the ,
bird that likes peas will throw out with his bill, as far
as possible, the other kinds of grain to get at his favorite
morsel, and naturally much of the food thrown on the
floor will be trodden under foot and wasted. If a hopper
is provided. for each kind of grain, the pigeon will find
what it wants without trouble and will waste but little.
These hoppers can be cheaply constructed, and of any
pattern that may suggest itself. They can be made self-
feeding, or consist of a simple open trough, and only
such. a portion of food placed in them each day as will
be likely to be used on that day. Self-feeding ones are
the most desirable for those who can not be regular in
their visits to their pets, as it keeps a supply of food
constantly ready for their use, a feature very desirable
when old birds are feeding their young. But when one
has time for frequent daily visits to his lofts ‘or aviaries
and can watch the food supply closely, I believe the open

34
 

A, Water-fountain, B. Metal Food-hopper or Water-
fountain. C. Wooden Food-hopper.

an
Jo
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

trough the best, and frequent feedings better than a con-
stant supply. The feeding-trough, whether of the self-
feeding or open pattern, should be protected by bars
either of wood or wire, about 2 inches apart; this allows
the pigeon to reach the food with his bill, but pre-
vents his walking over it, also prevents a selfish cock
from monopolizing the whole trough, as they sometimes
will, and tends to prevent the wasting we have men-
tioned by throwing the food out with the bill.

A hopper for each kind of food placed in various
parts of the loft insures a supply for all and of the kin«
most to their taste.

In the matter of drinking-vessels one can not be too
particular, as clean, fresh water is really a necessity to
insure perfect health, as there is unquestionably morc
disease and deaths caused by impure water than from
any other source. Pigeons seem to have a penchant for
fouling their water with their excrement, and conse-
quently a closed vessel is the best for drinking purposes.
Lut this water should be renewed every day, no matter
whether all is consumed or not. The practice of filling a.
fountain and leaving it to stand until all the water is ex-
hausted, is a bad one. The fountain should be filled
every day and frequently scalded to keep it sweet. A
good drinking-vessel can be made by taking an ordinary
red earthen flower-pot. Stop the hole in the bottom
tightly with a cork. Fill the flower-pot full to the brim
with water, then-take a saucer, such as is. usually sold
with such pots, of a size large enough to fit over the top
of the pot, leaving a space of about an inch all around
the edge of the pot and outside edge of the saucer. In
the bottom of the saucer put three or four strips of wood
or iron a quarter of an inch thick and place the saucer,
bottom up, on top of the pot. Then quickly invert pot

36
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

and saucer, setting the saucer in its usual position on the
floor. The quarter-inch sticks will allow the water to
flow out enough to about fill the space between saucer
and pot, and you have a vessel easily filled and cleaned,
and one in which the water will keep cool at all times.

For locations where water freezes in winter, this same
fountain will answer, but needs to be filled several
times each day, and watched that it does not freeze, and
should always be emptied at night. In fact, 1 would
advise emptying all. fountains at night, and refilling
them in the morning, not allowing water to stand in any
vessel over night. There are many different kinds of
drinking-vessels, but none better in all ways than the
one above described. By using pieces of iron for the
pot to rest on in the saucer it gives a little chalybeate
quality to the water, that is said to be good as a tonic
for the birds.

, Another article needed as part of the furniture of the
loft is a bathing-pan. This can be about 4 inches deep
and of any size you choose; it may be an earthen pan
accommodating three or four birds, it may be a sheet-
iron one accommodating twenty-five or thirty, or it may
be made of one end of a barrel, accommodating ten or
twelve. But let its dimensions be what they may, it is to
be counted among the necessary articles of the loft. In
the summer a bath can be given every day, but in winter
twice a week will do unless the weather is very severe.
Sunny days should always be selected, and after the
bath the birds be allowed to dry themselves in the sun.

As soon as the bath is finished, the pans should be
removed, to prevent the birds drinking the water, which
they are likely to do if the pans are not emptied. It is
astonishing how much dirt is removed by a bath. * Put
your water in the pans as clear as crystal, and when the

37
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

sport is over (for the birds enjoy it and make sport of
it) the water that is left will be of a milky whiteness
and the surface covered with the dust from their bodies.
This shows conclusively the necessity for a frequent
bath. Birds allowed the free use of clean water are
always exceptionally free from lice, and their plumage is
bright and glossy.

Another piece of furniture necessary is a landing-net.
This is made of rattan or any light material, looped at
one end, and from which is suspended a hag of cloth or
netting, about 18 inches in length, the upper or open end
of the bag being attached to the loop in the handle.
Wishing to catch any particular member of the loft, you
take the handle of.the net in the hand, and by a dex-
terous movement cast the net over the bird and it is a
prisoner. This manner of catching a bird avoids the
necessity of chasing it about and alarming the whole
flock, startling the sitting birds, and making all wild
and suspicious. A little practice will render one so skil-
ful in its use as rarely to miss the bird aimed at.

Another necessary article is a scraper, for removing
the droppings from the perches, the nesting-places, and
the floor. For the shelves and elevated places an ordinary
triangular ship-scraper is often used, or a portion of the
blade of an old hand-saw, about € inches long and 4 or
5 wide, fitted with a wooden rim to protect the hand, is
as good a scraper as one can use. For the floor have
a piece of the saw fitted on the end of a handle 5 feet
long. With this you can work easily and very effec-
tively. If one has the time, a little attention every day
will keep a loft in excellent order, and by working
quietly the birds on the nests are not disturbed, and
all soon learn that they are not going to be injured and
pay but little attention to the worker.

38
 

 

 

 

PLANS OF NESTS

 
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

The scrapings should all be saved, as they make ex-
cellent manure when properly composted, or they can be
sold to morocco dressers, who prize them highly for use
in tanning their hides. Every loft, however small, needs
a mating-cage if care is to bé used in breeding. For this
purpose a box 2 feet long and 12 inches deep and as
many inches high will answer for all varieties except
f'outers. These will need a larger cage or box. Divide
the box in the middle by a wire partition; also slat or
wire the front. This gives two apartments. Wishing
to pair up any particular cock and hen, place them
in the separate apartments, and, if congenial, they will
soon make love to each other through the wire partition.
They would, perhaps, mate if placed in a single cage, but
sometimes the match is not an agreeable one to the hen,
and in spite of all the enticing actions of the cock ,the
hen will not accept his attentions. Then comes a series
of quarrels, which frequently ends in the hen being
mastered and then terribly abused by the cock, he fre-
quently pecking her about the head till the skull is laid
bare and the flesh a mass of bloody pulp.

By placing them in separate apartments this is -all
avoided, and after a time, if there is no agreement en-
tered into ‘between them, one or the other can be re-
moved and a bird put in its place that may prove
more congenial. I have frequently seen birds placed in
the cage mate in an hour’s time, and again have seen
day after day pass and the hen show no indication of
mating, and yet in the end, when the right spirit per-
vaded her, accept the attentions of the cock and prove
a faithful companion.

Should the fancier’s flock be a large one, he would
naturally need several mating-cages. These should be
located outside or away from the breeding-room, so that

40
      

dik

BLUE POUTER COCK

Being the easiest to breed, possessing all the good
qualities of the other Pouters together with its own
fine point, its beautiful blue plumage, the Blue Pouter
easily takes the lead in this class of pigeons.

41
The Feather's Practical Pigeon Book

the mating pairs may be quiet and undisturbed by the
other pigeons. Provisions should be made for good
ventilation in the loft, especially in hot weather, and
while draughts are to be strenuously avoided, the air
needs to be kept as fresh and pure as possible. Cleanli-
ness will aid in this, but small openings near the top of
the room that can be opened and closed as circumstances
require are what is needed. Having suggested all the
necessary fixtures for -the comfort of the pigeons that
are usually found in a loft, I give my attention to the
proper food to provide for them while in confinement,
a condition in which the greater part of the lives of
fancy pigeons must be spent.
CHAPTER III

 

Foop AND FEEDING

Pigeons that have their liberty are privileged to seek
and select such food as they prefer. Frequently they
find nothing to their liking’ near home, and fly miles
away to feeding-places that furnish what suits their
taste. In the country they visit the newly-sown grain-
fields, and frequently become a pest to the farmer, or in
the fall find generous living among the ripened grain.
Those living near towns and cities find abundant pick-
ings in the streets and thrive and grow fat upon the
offal of horses scattered about. But pigeons in confine-
ment have no choice and must take what is provided
for their use or starve. Consequently it is the duty of
their keeper to provide food that shall be palatable and
acceptable to them. As all pigeons have not the same
tastes and what is meat for one in a sense is poison to
another, it is, therefore, necessary to furnish a variety,
so that all shall find what is to their liking and so be
satisfied and correspondingly contented.

Among the varieties of grain produced in America
1 find that pigeons take kindly to Indian corn, wheat,
buckwheat, Canada peas, Hungarian grass-seed, millet,
and sometimes barley, but this only when it had been
before them a long time and they found that it was
edible, but they would leave it any time for good wheat
or corn. Tares, dari, and a small black bean, have fre-
quently been imported and used for pigeon food, but as
they come high, their use is not general, nor do I believe
them necessary considering that we have so many other

43
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

foods that are desirable and answer all the purposes re-
quired of them. Rye my pigeons never seemed to take
to, and while I have seen frequently in the fall of the
year flocks of pigeons on the harvested rye-fields, I
never found fancy pigeons partial to it when they could
get anything else. I have had the same experience with
poultry ; they never took kindly to rye.

Whatever grain is fed should be thoroughly cured
and dry, as much loss and disease hive been engendered
hy feeding pigeons new grain, strange to say, as pigeons
flying at large seem to eat newly-ripened grain with
impunity. I have seen fancy pigeons that were confined
waste away and grow thin with an abundance of food
before them, of which they seemed to partake freely,
and on examining into the cause could come to no other
conclusion than that it was from. eating new grain.
While using it the floor of the loft would be as wet as
though sprinkled with water, and it was evident that the
food was producing a loosened condition of the bowels
that was weakening and killing the birds. A return to
good, sound, old grain worked a change at once, and
ever after I shunned new grain.

Pigeons are very fond of corn, and many are in the
habit of feeding it whole to their birds. This is a danger-
ous practice, especially to small birds, as the large ker-
nels are liable to lodge in their throats and choke them.
The best way to feed this grain is to feed it cracked,
unless you can get the small Yankee corn a little larger
than a pea. In some sections of the country it is quite
abundant and when it can be had is preferable to ali
larger corn. Although I have found, in my experience,
that pigeons seem to prefer good, sound, yellow gourd,
seed corn, they soon learn to know and like the smaller
variety above mentioned.

44
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

The food of pigeons needs to be varied according to
the season and location. In northern localities where
the nights are long and the cold sometimes intense dur-
ing the winter months, the food needs to be of a kind
slow of digestion and affording considerable warmth.
For this purpose, good sound peas, either gray or yel-
low, and the little Yankee corn make the best of food.
During the spring and summer months when the weath-
er is mild and the birds are breeding, sound wheat, buck-
wheat, small Canada peas, and millet are the -proper
foods. Tares, if they can be afforded, also the dari I
have mentioned, if that can be had. This last is an East
Indian variety of grain, resembling very much the pearl
barley sold in stores for soups. The English fanciers.
regard it highly, but owing to its cost it can never be
expected to become a favorite with our fanciers.

T have said that what is meat for some varieties is poi-
son for others; for this reason attention must be paid to
the action of the different kinds of grain on the various
members of a flock. If any particular grain seems to
scour them it should be taken from them entirely, or
only fed in small quantities; likewise if any grain seems
to be constipating, that, also, should be reduced in quan-
tity. In changing from one grain to another the change
should be gradual until they become accustomed to its
use. While an idea prevails that pigeons will eat grain
only, this is a mistake, for they are fond of both plant
and animal food. I have found peas and lettuce both
acceptable and always supplied their wants by planting
seed of these varieties in shallow boxes and when up
about an inch placing them in the lofts.

While there is no question but that pigeons flying at
large pick up animal food in the shape of small snails,
it never seemed to be a necessity, and I never by experi-

45
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

ment proved that they would eat it when confined. Salt
fish, we all know, they are fond of, and many fanciers
keep a piece fastened to the wall within reach of their
birds, but while they may also like the meat, it is no
doubt the salt in the fish they are after. . Bread is an
excellent, economical, and favorite food with pigeons.
It can be fed in various ways. It can be dried hard and
pounded to pieces, it can be toasted and broken in bits,
or it can be soaked and mixed with bran. In this form
I have found pigeons very eager for it; in fact, forsake
their grain for it, and not leave the dish till it was all
consumed. This preparation, with the addition of a
little bone-flour, is excellent for birds that are feeding

' their young, and all seem to thrive on it. I used to pur-

chase bread by the barrel of the bakers, and use it as
above for both poultry and pigeons. ,
Salt is something pigeons are very fond of, and every
loft should have either lumps of rock salt standing
about, or a piece of salt cat. This is a preparation
originated many years ago by old English fanciers, and,
properly prepared, is said to be a great promoter of
health and fine condition in the flock. There are many
different ways of preparing it, but the following for-
mula is about the best I have ever used: One peck dry
loam; one handful each of flour, ground cloves, fennel
seed, dill seed, cummin seed, fennigreek, and powdered
assafetida; three double handfuls common salt and one
double handful bay salt. Mix this well together dry,
and then add water, and make about as stiff as putty,
divide in cakes, allowing it to dry and harden in the sun.
One or two of these lumps placed in the loft will be
welcomed and freely partaken of as soon as it is found
what it is. Sometimes if very hard, I have found it
necessary to wet it a little to induce the birds to take it

46
 

BLACK-PIED POUTER COCK

One of the most graceful and gentle of all pigeons is
the Pouter, so much so that it has been called the
“Queen of Pigeons.” It is a large but never coarse
bird, with long and slender body, standing perpendicu-
larly, with wings held close to the body; flights, extend-
ing in line to above the tail; the legs rather straight,
closely feathered, long, and placed well back in the
body.
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

 

While grain and bread should form the staple food,
there are many varieties of seeds that pigeons are fond
of and enjoy occasionally, sich as hemp, canary, rape,
turnip, and coriander. These are more’ or less stimu-
lating and heating, and should not be used for a gen-
eral diet, but can be thrown to the birds after their re-
turn to the loft from a fly, or when giving them an
occasional visit through the day. By the use of such
luxuries birds can be made very tame. In addition to
the various foods I have mentioned, I would recom-
mend that a box of broken oyster-shells and old lime
mortar be always kept in the loft. Pigeons seem to be
very fond of lime mortar; not such as is used for walls.
or rooms, as this contains hair, but such as comes from
brick or stone foundation walls. Pigeons confined in
rooms of brick buildings where they can get at the mor-
tar between the bricks, will, if not furnished with a sup-
ply, peck it out from between the layers of bricks.
This is evidence that they are fond of it, and while,
perhaps, not an absolute necessity, liking it, they should
be supplied with it.

Broken bone and even broken charcoal will, at times,
seem to be relished. While oyster-shells and old mortar
may answer the purpose, I have always made it a point
to have in addition a box of small-sized gravel. As pig-
eons, like members of the gallinaceous family, are sup-
plied with a gizzard where the food is prepared for
perfect digestion, it is necessary for this organ to be
furnished with something hard that will assist in grind-
ing the food, and nothing seems to answer this purpose
better than sharp grit or gravel, consequently it becomes
a necessity that something of this kind should be sup-
plied. The prepared grit now offered for sale by var-
ious dealers is clean, hard, and sharp, and fills the place:

48
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book .

of natural gravel to perfection. With the varied “menu”
presented herewith, the novice can form something of
an idea of what his pigeons will enjoy,and while it is not
at all necessary that he should supply to them the whole
list, he can make from this his selection, and feed what
seems to be most to their taste, and what agrees with
them best. Be cautious about over-feeding. Keep them
in just such a condition that they will enjoy their meals
when furnished them and then with, if possible, a little
outdoor exercise, they should be healthy, active, and
contented.

Birds kept continually confined need a little more
careful watching than those that can have daily exercise,
to see that they do not suffer from close confinement.
If the loft is roomy they can get considerable exercise
right in the loft, but if quarters are contracted, the
chances for disease and vermin are greater than if at
liberty. Above all things, let the quarters be what they
may, do not overcrowd. Where possible, I would ad-
vise the use of a-raised platform for feeding; here the
various grains can be placed, and be eaten from the
feeding-dishes or hoppers, or scattered about.

If grain is fed directly from the hand, this platform
can be swept clean before feeding and it will be found a
much nicer way than to feed on the floor. One must
be governed in feeding by the time at one’s ‘disposal.
If only able to visit the birds twice a day, food must be
supplied to last from one feeding-time to the other, but
if able to visit the loft several times each day, then the
feeding each time can be in limited quantities and the
chance to vary the food much better. If one is situated
so as to have a roomy area built on the ground, a plat-
form can be erected there and on dry days the birds fed
there. The gravel, water, and other supplies can all be

4 49
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

placed here and sheltered from wet, and in this way. the
loft left for breeding and shelter alone. In this connec-
tion I might call the attention to the water supply,
which should always be pure and fresh. The addition
occasionally of a small piece of quicklime, also, at
times a little of the Douglas mixture so highly recom-
mended for poultry, is very beneficial.

The Douglas mixture is made after the following
recipe: One-half ounce sulphuric acid, five-eighths
pound green vitriol or copperas dissolved in two quarts
of hot, soft water ; when cold add two quarts cold water,
making a gallon. <A tablespoonful to a pint of water is
about the right proportion to use. Some poultry writers
have decried this mixture and pronounced it of no ac-
count, but experience has taught me that its occasional
use is beneficial, and that, in the spring particularly, it
has proved an excellent tonic. It imparts a slight chaly-
beate taste to the water, and all know that iron is fre-
quently of great benefit to an impared system. In addi-
tion to what has been said regarding the grain fed to
pigeons, I would add that whatever you buy, have it
good, sweet, and well cured. Poor grain is dear at any
price, and for high-class pigeons is dangerous material
to use. The screenings of good, sound grain are not
objectionable as a change, but grain that is weevil-
eaten or musty is not economical, and in many cases
acts like poison. Beware of it.

50
CHAPTER IV ,

Wuat VARIETIES TO BREED

The necessary provisions for the accommodation and
comfort of the flock having been all arranged, the ques-
tion with a novice naturally arises, “What variety will
it be best to keep and breed?” Well this, as it is a mat-
ter generally of taste or fancy, is a hard question to an-
swer for all alike. There are so many to choose from;
something like 150 or more varieties and sub-varieties,
and all possessed of qualities more or less desirable.
Much depends, as we have said, in regard to the con-
struction of the habitation, on the moneyed resources of
the breeder. Still, I believe in commencing, it is better
to begin with some of the more easily managed varieties
and learn through them what is needed for the success-
ful breeding of the more expensive and higher-class
pigeons. Therefore I always advise beginning with
such birds as the common Long-faced Tumbler, Ant-
werp, Fantail, Duchesse, Owl, Solid Colored Turbit,
and birds such as these, that are generally good nurses
and feeders, possessed of fine qualities enough to make
them attractive and yet not so difficult to produce in per-
fection as some of the high-class and parti-colored pig-
eons.

Then after learning the habits of these the ‘young
fancier is by this first experience better fitted to under-
“take the breeding of the more delicate and difficult
varieties. Not but that some of the varieties named
have qualities that are difficult to produce in perfection,

51
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

but they seem to be easier to manage and control than
others of this great family.

The breeding of pigeons in perfection is a study only
learned by long experience, and the lesson, like the les-
sons of life, needs to be first studied and learned
through the medium of the commoner and more easily
understood branches. I think any one commencing in
this way and then gradually working up to the more
valuable varieties is less liable to become discouraged
and retire in disgust from the fancy, than if he
started in at once to breed high-class birds, and met at
the outset the difficulties and discouragements one has
to contend with in the breeding and management of
stich stock. In the breeding of fancy pigeéns much de-
pends on the motive that induces one to’ embark in it,
as to his continuing in the fancy. Some start with the
idea there is money to be made from raising fancy pig-
eons, and consequently foster with care every specimen
that is brought forth no matter how imperfect in quality,
believing every one is salable at some price, and, there-
fore, as it were, “fish for their net’; such a fancier has
his place, but it is not among the foremost. Others
again take it up because it is something new, and ex-
pect to derive both pleasure and fame from being as-
sociated with the fancy. Some of these achieve their
end, learn to love the pursuit, and become life-long
fanciers, but too many after many unsuccessful trials
retire baffled and. discouraged, and are heard of no more.

Others become fanciers from an inherent love of pets.
These are the ones that generally make pigeon breeding
a success, and that do so much to keep alive the love
and interest for the feathered beauties. Money is no
object to them, price is no hindrance to their ambition,
and the word defeat is not in their lexicon. With the

52
 

PIGMY POUTER

The Pigmy Pouter is the bantam of pigeondom, and,
excepting size, is like its larger brethren in all things.
There is some doubt as to its origin, but the Norwich
Cropper is generally conceded to have had something
to do with its make-up, though in-breeding must be
resorted to if the bird is to be kept small.

53
e

The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

idea of improvement and perfection ever in their minds,
they strive on, studying, experimenting, and breeding,
until the desired goal is reached, for although Nature
presents many obstacles, there are certain of her laws
that when understood and put into practice bring the
desired results, and these are the principles the true
fancier is constantly striving to understand and apply.
And this is what keeps him a fancier and has given to
the pigeon world so many varied and beautiful speci-
mens of their kind. Look back and consider, (taking
the original Blue Rock Columba Livia as the starting-
point,) what an immense amount of thought, time, and
patience must have been bestowed on the subject, to
produce such a lot of pigeons as the Pouter, the Jacobin,
the Turbit, the Oriental Frill, and the scores of other
beauties with which our great exhibitions make us all
familiar. But scientific writers prove to us that it has
been done, and who but the true fancier has pro-
duced these results? But I am digressing somewhat
from the topic of this chapter, and come back to the
subject, “What Varieties to Breed.”

While I have mentioned a few of the varieties easiest
cared for, and from which good results can be expected
by one with little experience, there are many others that”
can be chosen which might answer as well, if the young
fancier knows of them, and for that purpose I give here-
with a detailed list of the varieties generally known in
America. Europe and Asia contain many varieties not
yet familiar to us, but which in time must come to our
knowledge as we advance in age and experience. For
the better guidance of the novice I purpose arrang-
ing the different varieties into four classes, as follows:

First, what are generally known among exhibitors
particularly, as the high-class varieties, These are varie-

54
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

ties that have distinctive properties or qualities about
them requiring great care, study, and attention to per-
fect, and not found in any other kinds. I begin the
list with that king of pigeons, the English Carrier,
following with its compeer the Pouter, and their asso-
ciates, the Barb and Short-faced Tumbler in all its
numerous varieties :

ist—High-Class Pigeons—The Carrier, Pouter,
Barb, Short-faced Tumblers.

2nd—Pigeons possessing distinctive properties re-
gardless of color and with a strong tendency to impress
iheir characteristics upon their progeny, such as the
Jacobin, Long-faced Tumbler, Owl, Oriental Frill,
Turbit, Scanderoon, Fantail, Priest, Trumpeter, Frill
Back, Dragoon, Florentine or Hen Pigeon, Pigmy Pou-
ter, Moakee, Isabel, Duchesse, Brunswick, Letz, Swift,
Show Antwerp, Mahomet, Runt.

»3rd—Pigeons which are dependent for quality almost
entirely upon color of feather and markings, and are
known usually as Toys. Losing these distinctive prop-
erties their value as fancy pigeons is gone, and they be-
come little, if any, better than the common Dove House
Pigeon.

The Swallow, Helmet, Nun, Spot, Archangel, Cres-
cent, Suabian, Fire Back, Shield, Magpie, Breaster,
Lahore, Ice Pigeon, Starling, Quaker, Stork, Dama-
scene, Fairy, Hyacinth, Porcelain, Moorcap.

4th—Pigeons that have few, if any, distinctive quali-
ties to distinguish them from the common pigeon, but
that yet possess the homing instinct, and the quality of
endurance so strong as to entitle them to a place among
fancy pigeons.

“The Antwerp.

From this list the young beginner can make as many

‘55
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

and as varied selections as he chooses, but I would: cau-
tion him not to commence with too many at once, and
in his purchases to_be also cautious whom he deals with.

It may be that he is so fortunate as to live in a locality
where fanciers and breeders are numerous, as in the
neighborhood. of our large cities and towns. If so, he
can readily learn whom he can place the most confidence
in, and go to them for what he wants. But if living
at a distance from any breeders he must then necessarily
depend upon the various poultry and pigeon papers and
magazines for information where to buy, and conse-
quently be, as it were, at the mercy of the dealer. Let
him, therefore, scan the advertisements closely, and en-
deavor to get some idea of the character of the adver-
tiser also, through the medium of the lists of prize-
winners usually published in these papers. The breed-
ers who figure as prize-winners are alrnost always men
of good character, and by opening a correspondence
with them, he can learn of their terms and somewhat
of the quality of the stock they have for sale.

Let him be guarded about dealing with men of no
reputation, because their advertisement is well worded,
and the prices, if given, are low, and remember that a
low price sometimes, and often, means a poor quality of
birds. If his means are limited, he had better put it all
into the hands of a reliable man and obtain one, two, or
three good pairs, than to buy five times as many from
a man of no reputation because they are cheap. More
harm has been done to the fancy through such men than
can be. imagined by any one not acquainted with the
facts, and it is to warn the uninitiated against such pit-
falls that I mention it here.

We are supposing that the young fancier wants to
begin with good, reliable stock, can afford to pay a fair

56
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

price for it, and wants some guide.as to the direction
in which to look for the same. If he has no particular
desire to begin right, and only wants a collection of pig-
eons, without regard to quality, he had then better in-
vest in common birds, as he will save money and derive
as much satisfaction from breeding them, as from
breeding poor fancy stock. It will give him just as
good an opportunity to study and learn the habits of
pigeons, and fit him if he desires to keep up the pas-
time; to handle the thoroughbreds as well as though he
had the refuse of fancy breeders to experiment with

All breeders produce some specimens that are lacking
in the qualities needed to make them desirable breeding
birds even, and while some are conscientious and kill
all such inferior trash, others again, partly from a dis-
like to kill their pets, and partly from economical mo-
tives, dispose of them in a lot at the close of the breed-
ing season to dealers in fancy birds in the large cities
who usually find ready customers among boys and im-
pecunious men fanciers, for such refuse. The breeder
that sacrifices them all is a benefactor to the fancy, as
it puts out of the way birds that never ought to be al-
lowed to go out to the public, and tends more than in
any other way to perpetuate a high standard among
pigeons.

In advising correspondence with reliable breeders, I
would not advise always commencing with his very best
prize-winning stock, as this is generally held at a fancy
and sometimes at an almost prohibitory price, and the
purchase of such stock, while the inference would natu-
rally be that it would on the principle of “like produc-
ing like,” be sure to produce almost perfect birds is apt
to be very disappointing; as while they are matched
to meet the purposes of the show-pen, which calls for

57
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

specimens of the highest standard, the mating for breed-
ing purposes may not be at all in the proper line for per-
fection breeding. Therefore the better way would be
to arrange with him you purpose buying of, to furnish
you with good breeding stock, properly mated for best
results. In this way you will start right, and while the
specimens sent you may not be just what you have Seen
at the exhibitions, their progeny will be much more like-
ly to turn out well and satisfactory than though you
had bought birds matched for appearance only, and the
price will also be more satisfactory.

I am supposing now that you are dealing with such
men as I have recommended, and men who have self-
respect enough to deal fairly with their customers.
Should you unfortunately fall into the hands of a “shy-
ster” or dealer of no principle, do not become discour-
aged, and class all fanciers in the same category as he,
but try again and you will find that even your dearly-
bought experience will not be wholly lost. If possible
for you to do so, after settling on the varieties you
would like to keep, purchase two or three pairs of each
variety ; this will then allow of your being able to mate
up birds for your second year’s breeding not wholly re-
lated to each other; in other words, it will avoid the
necessity of too close in-and-in breeding, and providing
you have been fortunate enough to select from breeders
of character, will give you stock which, while not closely
related, still has all the elements of a good family in its
veins necessary to permit of your raising good birds
and building up a strain of your own.

In opening a correspondence always state squarely
what you expect and are looking for, but unless you are
in want of exhibition birds, do not set your standard
too high, or you may run against a rock in the shape

58
 

FANTAIL

It would be difficult to find a more popular and
generally admired bird than the graceful and beautiful
little Fantail. It is probably a native of India, but is
extensively bred in England and Ireland, as well as
here. It is a small, round-bodied bird, slightly hollow
in center of back, with its swan-like head resting upon
the cushions. The fan-like tail should be carried well
up and evenly balanced. The bird stands jauntily on
ie ape with an almost constant motion in a good

ird.

59
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

of an enormous price that will so stagger you as to make
it seem an impossibility for you to indulge in the diver-
sion of pigeon breeding.

The high-class pigeons mentioned in my classifica-
tions are always expensive, and the better, the specimen
the better the price. A very little difference in the qual-
ity of individual birds will make a vast difference in
value. This feature extends through the whole list of
fancy pigeons; particular excellence in some desirable
quality in different members correspondingly increases
their value and price. It is hard to comprehend when
first becoming interested in pigeons why those which
which show to the inexperienced so little real difference
from others near by are yet held at so much higher fig-
ures. Experience soon teaches this difference and shows
how, as I have said, a little difference in quality makes a
great difference in value.

So in purchasing be at first satisfied with rather a
mediocre quality of birds in appearance, as long as you
know their antecedents are good. Pedigree breeding
has not as yet been practiced in pigeon breeding to any
great extent, but there are those who pay some atten-
tion to it, and we are gradually working up to it. Pedi-
greed birds, while they may not always produce perfect
progeny, are less likely to sport, and throw something
that you are not looking for, than birds picked up here
and there and thrown promiscuously together with no
question as to their origin. Hence if you can start with
pairs of which you can have some idea of the parentage,
it will be a factor in your favor. There is such a tend-
ency to retroversion (that is, throwing back to original
parents) among these birds of uncertain breeding, that
while parents may have every appearance of quality,
their young may prove to be nothing but “scrubs.” The

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

commingling of strange blood is likely to develop the
taint lying dormant in one or the other.

Many a fancier has found this out to his sorrow, by
purchasing some single bird of unknown parentage, and
mating it with some good specimen of his own, and
finding his young prove anything but what he hoped
for and expected. This does not always happen, but it
is oftener so than otherwise. Occasionally these chance
matings prove to be excellent ones, and when such is the
case there can be some confidence placed in their young
for breeders for future use.

Many of my readers niay wonder why I have given
no statement as to the values of pairs of good breeding
birds. As there is no established price among breeders
this would be a difficult thing to do, as every man has
his own price, and like many of the fancy articles of
trade, much depends on the reputation he has made as a
prize-winner, and on the quality of birds he has raised
or has in stock. A breeder might ask for a good pair
$15.00 this month, and next. month be glad to sell at
$10.cc. Then again, there is such a wide variation in
ithe values of different varieties. While nicely matched
and mated Tumblers, Duchesse, and Antwerps may be
bought as low as $3 per pair, the kingly Carrier, the
dandy Pouter, and the dainty Short-faced Tumbler, if
of high quality, would readily bring from $100 to $150
a pair, and even this price would be considered cheap
for extra-fine specimens of these kinds. The other
varieties I have given a list of in the preceding pages
of this chapter would range in price from $5 up to $40
and $50 per pair, according to the variety, the stock
descended from, and the parties having them for sale.
On this basis the young fancier may judge when he
hears of the prices asked for the kinds he is in search

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

of, something of the quality offered for sale. Do not be
led into purchasing poor specimens because they are
cheap ; better pay a good round price for something you
are confident is good, and have the satisfaction of seeing
presentable youngsters growing up around you, and
thus save your money, your temper, and your time, as
well as retaining your love and interest for your feath-
ered pecs,

 

62
CHAPTER V

 

MaTING FOR BREEDING

We now suppose that the purchases advised in the
preceding chapter have been made, the results proven
satisfactory, and that there is now a stock of adult birds
to commence another season’s work with. These must
necessarily be mated, and as soon as it is determined
what birds to put together, if one knows their sex thev
can be placed in the mating-cage which has been pre-
viously spoken of.

Right here I wish to remark on determining the sex
of pigeons. In young pigeons not yet matured this. is
a difficult thing to do. Although there are many ways
advocated for arriving at such a decision, such as. hold-
ing the pigeon in the hand, and with the fingers examin-
ing the abdominal cavity. The breast-bone of the cock
is said to be longer, thus extending back and making
the opening between it and the bones of the ossacrum or
vent smaller, while in the hen the breast-bone being
shorter it makes the opening larger. This, however,
is a very unreliable test, as I have proved by hundreds
of experiments.

Another way adopted by some is to take the bill of the
pigeon between the thumb and forefinger of the left
hand, and the feet between the same fingers of the right
hand, and draw them apart, if the pigeon throws its tail
up, it is a hen, if it hugs it down close to the right hand
it is a male. It will throw the tail either one way or
the other, and this test has given me more satisfaction

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

than any I have tried, and is the only way I adopt for
testing a promiscuous lot of birds.

The head of the cock is generally heavier and there
is an expression about the eye and face, learned only by
experience, and inexpressible in words, by which an old
fancier intuitively arrives at his conclusion as to sex.
Like the human family some members of the pigeon
family arrive at maturity sooner than others ; these show
their sex by their lively and salacious actions, and it is
uot difficult to select cock and hen in such cases. But
these may be the very_birds you do not want to put to-
gether, and those that you do want may be among the
undemonstrative ones of the flock, consequently know-
ing the parentage or pedigree of those you wish to pair
the only way is to choose what you judge to be cock
and hen and place them in the mating-cage. Perhaps
for days they may show no evidence of sex, although
they may peck with their bills and strike at each other
with their wings, and cause you to be at loss to decide
whether two cocks, two hens, or a pair. After days of
such strife they may soften and begin making love
through the partition wires, and even this sometimes is
deceiving as I have known both cocks and hens to pair
with members of their own sex.

But observation will soon enable you to judge pretty
closely as to whether they are really cock and hen.
Sometimes it may be a single bird you are in. doubt
about, and everything tends to make you believe it is
a hen. Then take her alone and put her in one of the
apartments of the breeding-cage, keeping her there un-
4] thoroughly acquainted with her surroundings. If a
bold, confident bird, well advanced to maturity, a day or
two will be enough. If a shy, distrustful one, it may
take a week. As soon as she seems at home, place in

64
 

BLACK SADDLEBACK FANTAIL

These birds are the same as the White Fantail, ex-
cept that the shoulders and saddle are black, and that
as to marking and actions they are very difficult to
breed in perfection.
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

the other apartment the cock you wish to pair with her.
He, if a lively, active one will begin to strut and coo,
and then to play about his cage, spreading his tail, and
in every way possible to attract her attention. She, on
the other hand, will stand for a time looking at him in
a surprised sort of manner. If his actions are satisfac-
tory she will begin to walk about nodding her head up
and down, swelling out her throat, and winking her
eyes frequently ; these motions will be supplemented by
her finally spreading her tail, and with a sort of curt-
seying movement, sweeping up to the partition between
them, this will soon be followed by the billing process ;
after this the cock will settle himself in one corner of
the pen or cage, commence “ducking” his head, making
at the same time a peculiar cooing sound. This is
known as calling to nest, and is good indication that the
pair are mated and ready to be turned into the loft.

It may prove that the pigeon you are undecided about
is a cock-bird; if so, instead of the peaceful attentions
shown by the actions just described you will see proud
and defiant actions, frequently ending in a pigeon fight
with wings and beak. The sooner such are separated
the better. Some practice putting the pair they wish to
mate into a cage without a partition; this is objection-
able, from the fact that some cocks are very tyrannical,
and while the birds may pair and be in a measure satis-
fied with one another, he, in his anxiety for the hen to
begin building, will drive her about continually, striking
her with his beak as often as possible on the head, until
it becomes a mass of raw flesh, and often kept up till
the skull is bare, and the hen so exhausted as to be un-
able to move.

Mating with the partition prevents all this, and they
need not be put together until one is satisfied all will

6
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

be harmony between them. Sometimes you may know
the pair you desire to mate are cock and hen, and yet
the hen may prove a termagant, and in no way satisfied
with the mate you have chosen for her. She will then
make it so hot for him, that you, for the sake of peace,
will be obliged to separate them. This is a case where
if the partition is removed and they are allowed to come
together, the cock, if a strong, vigorous bird, may whip
the hen into submission. But I do not advocate such
matings when avoidable, and they do not seem as nat-
ural, and are certainly not as peaceful as where the two
accept each other without discord and strife. The pairs
when properly and satisfactorily mated, can then be
placed together in the nesting-places, and if my direc-
tions as to partitions and doors have been followed out,
can be kept confined there a few days or until they are
settled in their new quarters, when the screen-door can
be removed and they allowed the liberty of the loft.

Previous to putting the mated pairs in the breeding-
room, it will be advisable to remove any odd males or
females, if there be any confined there, as they only tend
to create a disturbance by intruding their attentions on
the mated pairs. A strong cock will often pair with two,
hens where there is a surplus of hens, and dividing his
attention between the two, frustrate your breeding
plans. So sometimes such a cock will drive off the cock
the breeder has selected and appropriate his hen to his
own use, and in this way cause a continuous quarrel to
be kept up, where it is most desirable that concord and
harmony should prevail.

The birds being paired and “wonted” to their sep-
arate apartments, a nest-pan should be provided them,
half filled with either pine or cedar sawdust as I have
recommended. Everything being clean and new when

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

first starting, it is not so necessary to guard against
insects, but later when changing the sawdust, a few
drops of turpentine can be sprinkled in the bottom of
the can, or a little air-slacked lime be placed there and
sawdust on top of that. For birds just mated and about
beginning to nest, I would recommend that a few short
straws and fine twigs be scattered about the floor of the
ioft ; these they will gather up and put in the pan, and in
this way keep themselves busy, and in a more natural
condition. This is supposing that your birds are not
yet allowed full liberty. If allowed to fly out and into
the loft at will, they will bring in plenty of nesting-
material, a practice not always conducive to cleanli-
ness.

As the time approaches for the hen to lay, the cock
will place himself in the nest, and, making a peculiar
gurgling sound, try and induce her to take her place
there; this he will vary by continually following her
about from place to place, and by gentle pecks on the
head endeavor to induce her to do as he wants her to do.

This is called driving to nest, and when this takes
place you can generally depend on the hen soon laying.
The hen usually lays the first egg in the afternoon, and
stands over it all the following night and sometimes
most of the following day. The second egg is laid about
noon of the third day, when she settles down to the
work of incubation, sitting all night and until nine or
ten in the morning, when she is relieved by the cock,
who sits through the day until four or five in the even-
ing, when the hen again takes her place, and so the
alternation is kept up until the young are hatched, which
is in about eighteen days, counting from the time the
first egg is laid, or sixteen or seventeen, counting from
the time the last egg is laid.

68
 

BLUE CARRIER COCK

This bird is one of the finest grown, and, although
to an outsider it-may seem unlovely, it is highly regard-
ed by the fancier. It is a large bird and long feathered,
and in youth is very sprightly, but loses this in a few
years. The neck is long and thin, gracefully tapering
to broadly-set shoulders; the beak is strong and straight
and measures not less than one and_ three-fourths
inches from center of eye. The beak-wattle is the most
valuable property of the Carrier.

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

Many fanciers remove the first egg until the second is
laid, believing that then they hatch closer together if
both, as it were, are started together; but the fact is as
the hen does not, as a rule, sit closely on the first egg
until the second is laid there is usually not so great a
difference in the time of hatching. I am of the opinion
that the less the eggs are handled and the hen disturbed
during the first stages of incubation the better the
chances of success. If a record be kept of the time of
laying one can readily tell about what time to expect
the young to hatch.

About the tenth day by taking the eggs in the fingers
and holding them between the eye and a strong light,
it can be determined whether the eggs are fertile or not.
If they have young inside of them, they will be dark and
a greenish shade show about the outside. If infertile,
they will be pinkish in color, showing that no results are
to follow further incubation, and might as well be de-
stroyed. Sometimes one will be dark and the other
light, and this means only one young will make its ap-
pearance. If both are infertile, by destroying them it
breaks up the attempt of the pair to hatch, and after a
short period of rest the hen will lay another pair.
Should these prove infertile, it shows that there is some-
thing wrong in the mating, and the fault is usually laid
to the cock, who for some cause is unable to fertilize the
eggs. In such a condition of affairs it is best to give
the hen another mate, for it is only a waste of time to
keep such a pair together. s

Sometimes this cock paired with another hen later
in the season may do good work, but to keep a pair to-
gether that prove by their acts that they are not suited
to each other is a loss of time and patience, and the
sooner the little hen who shows that she can do her

70 33
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

part, is given a mate with virility enough to vitalize
her eggs the better for the plans of the fancier. Some-
times, though rarely in the case of pigeons, both eggs,
which, on examination on the tenth day, appear to be
all right, do not hatch, and the time is wasted. What
may have caused it is often a mystery, but it may be a
chill, or it may be an extra amount of heat from the
body of one of the pair. The temperature of one or
both of the pair may be above the normal, and this be
the cause, as too much heat as well as not enough will
kill the embryo in the egg.

As the time for hatching approaches, the food which
the parent birds take into their crops undergoes a pe-
culiar change, turning into a milky fluid, similar to the
chyle of the human stomach, and is known among fan-
ciers as “pigeon’s milk.” This is a singular and won-
derful provision of Nature, as the little pigeons are born
blind and utterly helpless, almost naked, save a slight
covering of yellowish down, and naturally need to be
kept warm. This the parents provide for by continuing
to cover them, as they did the eggs, and frequently feed-
ing them with the soft food or “milk” by taking the bill
of the “squab” in their own, and by a spasmodic action
of the crop and neck injecting the food into the throat
of the young bird. As the squabs increase in size, the
food furnished by the old birds grows coarser and
coarser, until at the end it is fed almost in the condition
that the parents. take it from the hoppers or feeding-
dishes. In this feeding process lies one of the great
secrets of success in breeding. The birds you have seen
fit to mate together because of their combining elements,
which one believes will produce nearly perfect speci-
mens, may be happily and properly mated, may be good
sitters, and yet fail utterly as feeders, and so all your

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

calculations in that direction come to naught, for unless
properly and regularly fed the young birds can not live.

Some varieties are notably poor feeders, such as Car-
riers, Pouters, Short-faced Tumblers, Barbs, and some
of the other short-billed varieties, and while they may
for the first few days do very well, after this they be-
come negligent and the young suffer accordingly. Many
fanciers, after learning the failings of their breeders,
guard against it by providing foster-parents from some
of the better feeding varieties, and as soon as the young
are hatched transfer them to the nest of the foster-par-
ents, having previously arranged that the two pairs shall
hatch about the same time. The young of the foster-
pair being substituted for those of the fancy pair,
enables the poor feeders to feed off their “soft feed,” as
it is termed, otherwise they would sicken and perhaps
die. At any rate, it would affect them to such an extent
as to prevent their laying again for some time, while by
feeding off this “soft feed” it keeps the system in a
healthy condition and Nature is not interrupted in her
actions.

Sometimes the best-laid schemes, like those of “mice
and men,” miscarry, and the supposed poor nurses raise
their mongrel pair, while the reliable pair neglect their
charges, and the hoped-for good results come to noth-
ing. But this does not often occur where you know
your feeders. But the best of them are erratic, and
often by their irregular attentions spoil one’s calcula-
tions, so that breeding after all becomes a matter of
luck. For feeders you can use common pigeons, Ant-
werps or Tumblers, in fact any pair that experience tells
you attend carefully to their young. I have found that
varieties such as Carriers, Pouters, and Barbs, that are
notoriously bad nurses when kept in confinement, fre-

72
 

BARB

One of the oldest varieties of pigeons is the Barb, or
Babary as it was once called. Preferably a large, well-
shaped bird with fine carriage, large and shapely head,
gracefully curved broad skull, short white beak, thick
and curving sufficiently to carry out the unbroken out-
line in profile. The beak-wattle though not large should
be close and even in tetxure, somewhat resembling a
saddle with a distinct division line through the center—
the eye, light or pearly with rich, red wattles, large,
circular, and thick standing out from the skull. This
is a justly popular bird not only here, but in France and
Germany as well.

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

quently when given perfect liberty to go in and out as
they please, having plenty of outdoor exercise, make
as good feeders as one could wish. The change from
the artificial to the natural conditions seems to work
wonders in such cases.

In making selections for feeders, as far as possible
select them according to the varieties you want to raise;
for instance for long-billed varieties, you want long-
billed feeders, for the short-billed, you want either short
or medium-billed varieties, for it can be readily seen
that a short-billed bird, no matter how good a feeder,
could not feed a Carrier or a Pouter as well as an Ant~-
werp, a Dragoon, or a common pigeon. While most
Pouter breeders find it necessary to employ nurses for
raising their young, I have, in my long experience,
known of one Pouter breeder who raised a great many
in the course of a season, and who depended alone on
his Pouters to care for their young; this they did as per-
fectly as any pigeons do, and go to his lofts at any time
and you would find plenty of fat squabs in the nests, and
well-matured squealers running about the floor. An-
other thing, he disregarded all advice and example in
the matter of feeding hemp-seed. He scattered it about
lavishly and his birds were never without it. It may be
that the stimulating effects of this grain was the cause
of such good results in raising so many. But like the.
effects of strong drink, once addicted to the use of it,
it became a necessity, for Pouters taken from the loft
and fed in the usual way, soon lost their sprightly ap-
pearance, and if they did not die, it took a long time ‘for
them to again regain their life and animation, and come
back to what we might term a normal condition.

_In choosing feeders also some consideration must be
taken of their dispositions. As far as possible select

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

those of a quiet and courageous disposition, and avoid
those of a wild and nervous temperament, as such are
likely to jump from the nest at your approach, a habit
that greatly interferes with incubation. Should the be-
ginner be so situated as not to have any feeders for his
young squabs, and notice that the parent birds were
neglecting them, he can feed them artificially, if they are
valuable, by taking crackers or toasted bread crushed
fine and mixed with warm milk or warm water, then
taking a small syringe, either of glass or rubber and in-
jecting the food into their throats. This can be done
until the little crop is well filled. Three or four doses
oi this kind each day will bring the young birds through
all right. As they grow older and able to take coarse
grain, soak peas, wheat, or small corn, till well swollen,
then put these into the mouth, when they will swallow
and soon fill their crop. Some fanciers, more enthusias-
tic than fastidious, take this food in their own mouths,
masticate it well, then taking the young bird in their
hands and placing its bill in their mouth, with the assist-
ance of the tongue force the masticated grain into the
young bird’s mouths and so fill their crops.

The young pigeon soon learns to like this manner of
feeding and will evince the greatest apparent joy at the
master’s approach, squealing, flapping its little stubs of
wings, and raising up and down in the nest. Many a
good bird has been raised in this manner, but I would
only advise the practice in case of necessity. A watch-
ful fancier visits his lofts often and can soon tell what
pairs are feeding well and what are neglecting their
charges, by feeling of their little crops. If well filled
and distended and the young bird feels warm you may
know the parents or nurses are attending to their busi-
ness.. Sometimes you will find a young bird with a crop

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

full of hard grain and his body cold and clammy. This
shows the old birds have been feeding grain it can not
digest and that it is not benefiting the squab. There is
not much hope for such a case except to keep it warm
by some artificial means and give some warm, soft food.
This will sometimes save it.

Young, healthy pigeons grow very fast when properly
fed; in fact, you can see the increase in size from day to
day. Often one of the young pigeons will grow faster
than the other, which shows that the stronger bird is
getting the most of the feed. In this case it will be
necessary to give the weaker one some assistance by
artificial feeding as heretofore recommended. While
I believe cleanliness to be a necessity and every way an
advantage, I do not believe in carrying it so far as to
interfere with breeding operations, and think that the
less the old and young both are disturbed the better the
chances for success. Some breeders make a practice
of cleaning their nest-pans during the breeding season,
every few days, transferring the young to a fresh bed of
sawdust, by exchanging the nest-pans. This may work
well with quiet dispositioned birds, but I believe the bet-
ter way would be, not to disturb the young birds at all
until ready to leave the nests themselves. Of course,
the accumulation of filth about the nest will be consider-
able, but if this is frequently sprinkled with sawdust or
what: is even better, land plaster, it will absorb all the
ammonia and render it dry. I think it will be found
especially in the case of shy, suspicious birds, that they
will feed the young longer and also that the young birds
will stick to the nest longer than if frequently moved,
a condition very desirable to prevent their being abused,
as they frequently are when out of the nest before they
can care for themselves.

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Frequently the hen-bird will be ready to lay again
before the previous squahs are fully fledged, and she
should then be given a pan in the spare apartment of
their shelf where the pair can again sit undisturbed. If
the first squabs stick to their nest the old birds will con-
tinue to feed them and so the work goes on happily and
-uninterruptedly until the first pair are able to care for
themselves. While pigeons are feeding their young
great care must be observed in keeping them well sup-
plied with food, for no food for the old birds means
starvation for the young ones, as the old birds when tak-
ing food for themselves must in reality have enough
for two or three and unless they have plenty the young
ones will suffer accordingly; so the hoppers or feed-
dishes should be kept well supplied at all times and the
water be plenty and fresh.

It is at this time that the old birds like the toasted or °
dry bread so well, and it makes excellent food for young
and old, and, therefore, one dish should be devoted to
that alone. The soaked bread, bran, and bone previous-
ly recommended will be found beneficial at this time
also, especially for the varieties where size is an object
to be desired. To induce young birds to care for them-
selves a little wheat or small peas should be scattered
about as soon as they leave the nest in the locality where
they are seeing the old ones eat; this will call their at-
tention to it and they will soon learn to feed themselves.

Young birds brought up by hand are slower to learn
than those properly fed by their parents, but hunger is
a good prompter, and it does not take a hungry young-
ster long to learn what the grain is scattered about for.
I have, in a previous chapter, recommended having a
- separate room for youngsters that have been weaned
and that can care for themselves. Where possible this

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

‘s a great advantage, as they then do not annoy their
parents while attending to the cares of a second family,
and are, also, free from any chances of abuse from other
members of the loft that they may importune “for a
feed.” Some male birds will feed any youngster that
may solicit it, whether his own or not. Others are more
pugnacious, and resent any such familiarity with severe
punishment, and it is such that I want to guard against
in recommending a separate room for all weanlings.
Soon after being weaned a partial molt takes place
of the body-feathers known as “shedding the nest-feath-
ers.” These feathers are all dropped gradually through
the summer, until the bird has all of its adult plumage.
Wing- and tail-feathers are shed about the time of the
annual autumnal molt, except in the case of very late-
_ hatched birds, when they are retained until the follow-
ing year’s autumn molt. The age of young birds can
be pretty correctly determined by their feathers. In
young birds, fully fledged, but still squealing, the body-
feathers will be laced with a very narrow edging of
reddish-brown color. The wing~ and tail-feathers are
comparatively short and narrow. As they increase in
age, these laced feathers are replaced by the broader and
clear adult feathers of the body, and when the complete
fall molt takes place the wing- and tail-feathers are also
replaced by longer and broader feathers. So that if a
young bird is found to have all of its body-plumage
and its wing- and tail-plumage as well, it can be counted
on being at least five or six months old. If younger
than this some of its nest-feathers will be found in
wings and tail. A young bird can also be told by its
feet and bill. Where an adult bird’s feet will usually be
bright red and firm in texture, the young bird’s will be
of a bluish-red cast and soft and fine.

78
 

BLACK JACOBIN

In England, Ireland, and Scotland, as well as in this
country, the Jacobin is a popular and widely-bred pig-
eon, and deservedly so, as it is a very high-class bird
with many distinct properties and can be cultivated
successfully in many climates. It is a medium-sized
bird, full breasted, long, and slender, with a jaunty car-
riage, holding its head about eight inches from the
ground. Its head is small, hidden to the eyes by the
long hood. The eye is pearl, white, or sometimes
orange-tinted; beak, short, and rather thick; wattle,
small and smooth, and eye-wattle, small, circular, and
prominent. Head from the mouth and eye upward
white, also the tail-coverts and primary flight-feathers.
The rest of the bird is black.
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book ,

 

Many young birds are very “precocious” or forward;
chat is, mature very early, and I have known them to
mate and breed at the age of six months. But the breed-
er for fancy does not want to permit this where possi-
ble, as it is better for his purposes that they be allowed
to become fully mature before entering upon the duties
of raising a family. Consequently he needs to keep
them apart, that is, the sexes, until time for spring mat-
ing. When the proper time arrives to mate birds for
the season’s work, which in the latitude of New York
should be about the 14th of February, the fancier should
look his stock carefully over and endeavor, as far as pos-
sible, to put such birds together as combine the qualities
he is seeking for.

Tf he still has the original stock birds he purchased
the preceding year, he knows what they have produced,
and if their young proved to be good specimens he can
mate them again. If their progeny proved unsatisfac-
tory, it will then be necessary to give them other mates.
Sometimes mating a son to his mother or a father to
his daughter will strengthen and help to improve qual-
ities peculiar to the variety. Brother and sister I would
never, unless unavoidable, put together. But a young
cock put to a young female of another pair, al-
though there may be close relation between them, is
preferable to mating brother and sister. What we want
to aim at in breeding is a proper balancing of all the
fancy points, so as to have them as near perfect as pos-
sible; not’ to mate so there shall be an excess of quality
in one particular point to the exclusion of some other
quality equally as necessary.

For instance, take Turbits (a hard variety to breed
perfect, by the way); I would not want to mate two
birds fine every way in head and beak, but deficient in

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

frill and color, for the natural inference would be that
their progeny, while they might be splendid in head and
beak, would be almost void of frill and so poor in
shoulder-coloring as to be disqualified for an exhibition
bird. The proper mating would be to take a young cock
bred from well-mated parents, with say good quality
in head-properties, and cross him with a hen lacking in
such properties, but possessed of good shape, good frill,
and good color. This would be equalizing the proper-
ties possessed by the pair, and the results would proba-
bly show that a step nearer the desired point of com-
bined excellence had been made. While the young
might not show the perfection of the male in beak-qual-
ities, for instance, they would still be likely to be good
in this particular, and combined with this have good
frills, shape, and color. I know with Turbit breeders
at the time I am writing everything is sacrificed for
head-qualities, but I can not acknowledge these alone
to constitute a perfect Turbit, and believe if judges do
their duty they will insist on perfection in friil, shape,
color of shoulders, and cleanness of thighs, as well as
shortness of beak, shape of head, and perfection of shell
or crest, in the make-up of an exhibition specimen.

In mating any birds together, I would avoid, as far as
possible, mating extremes, unless it were known that
the deficient bird had been bred from birds of fairly
good quality. This is where a perfect knowledge of ante-
cédents is necessary. Having this knowledge, you can
calculate how to select proper mates for certain indi-
viduals. All pigeons will throw some poor specimens
occasionally, and these poor ‘specimens, where the par-
ents are known to be good, can be safely mated with a
bird of superior excellence with an expectation of good
results. But I would not advise mating two poor speci-

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

mens, no matter how good the parents may have been.
As these birds combine in their make-up, all the bad
elements of the parent birds, and while chance might
show something of good quality, it is against all the
principles of breeding to mate bad with bad.

In mating solid-colored birds together, like Barbs,
Owls, Carriers, Dragoons, etc., for exhibition purposes,
attention needs to be paid to color as well as head-prop-
erties. In Carriers the practice has always been to mate
Blacks and Duns together to get good Blacks, and the
results of so doing will be likely to prove more satisfac-
tory if the Dun is known to be descended from Blacks.
So to get good Duns, if the Black has descended from
Duns the result will be likely to be good Duns. This
will apply equally as well to Barbs and other varieties.
Reds and Yellows can be crossed together for these
colors, and if the parents are descended from either of
the colors, whichever is the strongest color in the par-
ents’ veins will be likely to show in the progeny. A
Black descended from a Red, if mated to a Red, would
be likely to give rich deep Reds. Sometimes, however,
the union instead of producing a Red of clean color
throughout will produce a Red with a bluish tail and
rump, a very objectionable feature in a Barb, or it may
be one will be a Red and the other a Dun.

Yellows and Duns mated together will occasionally
give a rich yellow, especially if the Dun has yellow
blood in its veins. Reds can be mated together with
expectations of good results if they are known to have
descended from Reds. Frequently, however, such a
union will show a Black in the nest, especially if there
is Black blood in the parents’ veins. In mating Yel-
lows, if one of the pair is known to have Red blood in
its constitution the Yellow is likely to be more satisfac-

82
 

BLACK MAGPIE

One of the finest of our toy varieties of pigeons is
undoubtedly the Magpie. Originating in the Tumbler,
i has now become a distinct class by itself with many
admirers. It is a small bird, slender and snake-like, full-
chested, with long, thin body, and a sprightly carriage.
Head, long; skull, depressed, but not flat, curving easily
in all directions; beak, salmon-tinted and about half an
inch long; beak-wattle, fine and small; eye, white or
pearl, prominent, but gentle; cere, small bright red or
pink; neck, “snakey;” tail, long and compactly placed;
flights, narrow, evenly folded and carried high above
tail; legs and thighs, long and thin but not stilty; head,
neck, breast, back, saddle, and tail, black—rest of the
body white.

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

tory than if both were descended from Yellow. Mating
two Yellows, in which the Yellow blood predominates,
is likely to produce pale yellow progeny. Frequently,
when two Reds are mated, especially if there is Yellow
blood in both, there will be one, if not two, Yellows in
the nest, and if by such a union Reds are produced the
results will be light Reds. While Dun is regarded by
some as an objectionable color to mate with Reds and
Yellows, in consequence of the tendency of the young
to appear with ashy-colored rumps:and tails, still if the
Dun has Red or Yellow blood in it, I should not hesitate
to make the cross, especially if a good rich Dun, for
the reason that the results of such a union would show
flesh-colored bills, a very desirable quality in Reds and
Yellows of any variety. ‘
The mating for.color can be seen by what I have said
to be something of a game of chance, and it is certainly
a problem requiring deep study and a thorough under-
standing of the flock. It may be necessary to improve
the color of Red, Yellow, Dun, or Black birds to intro-
duce at times new blood to your loft. In such a case I
should recommend as a step towards this improvement
to introduce a good, rich, glossy Black,,if you can find
one of good parentage, or a rich, deep Red descended
from Blacks. Such a graft would be most likely to
improve your color in this line. Blues and Silvers, es-
pecially in Owls, Fantails, and Dragoons, are colors
that must be properly mated for, to produce good
shades of these colors. While the chances are not so
much against you as in mating the other colors men-
tioned, still they require study, in Fantails particularly,
where there is a tendency of the Blue to come clouded
or even Blue Chequered. For instance, two Blues that
have Black blood in them when mated together would

&
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

be likely to throw Chequered or clouded Blues, or they
might even produce one, if not two, Blacks in each nest.
It is not uncommon for two Black Fans, when mated
together, to produce one and even two Blues, and the
natural supposition in such a case would be that both
birds had a preponderance of Blue blood in their veins,
and that the union developed that color to the exclusion
of Black.

But these are chances that we want in mating to
avoid, where possible, so that we may know in mating
certain colors together we may be certain of reproduc-
ing them in the young. Where pairs are thoroughly
understood it is generally known beforehand about what
colors they will produce, but how to mate their progeny
with others of same stock is where reflection is neces-
sary; to so mate two Red birds together as to get a
preponderance of Red blood, or to so mate a Yellow
and a Red as to get same results. On the other hand
a Red bred from a Black sire or mother, if mated with a
Black, would be likely to give a good, glossy Black. So
a Blue crossed with a Silver with Blue blood in its sys-
tem would be likely to give a clear Blue with black bars ;
or a light Blue bred from Silver, and again crossed with
Silver, would be likely to give a good bright Silver.

As the painter prepares his different shades of color
by mixing certain proportions of the primary colors to-
gether, so the fancier, by a proper knowledge of the par-
entage of his birds, learns to mate them for required
results.

While I have so far spoken mainly of color, the other.
points, such as bills, eyes, frills, flights, booting, peaks,
and caps, all need to be studied and calculated for in the
same manner as color. The Turbit and Owl with small.
frills should be mated to a bird with a greater develop-

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ment of this feature. The Swallow, with a narrow cap
or light booting, needs a mate with broader cap and
heavier booting. The Trumpeter, with a small, uneven
rose, needs a mate with a well-developed one, and so
through all the various characteristics of the different
varieties we must supply in one of the mates, as far as
possible, what is lacking in the other. We can not ex-
pect to attain perfection in any one specimen, but by
close attention to the laws of breeding, as laid down in
this and other manuals, we must expect to reach a high-
er standard of excellence than can be reached by chance
or haphazard breeding.

Many in reading this article might suppose I had
reference wholly to solid-colored birds in my remarks
concerning color, but the same principle applies to all
parti-colored birds as well, such as the Swallow, the
Turbit, the Nun, the Magpie, etc. For instance, in mat-
ing Swallows and Turbits we aim.to avoid mating two
birds together with a tendency to show too much color,
which manifests itself in foul feathers on the breast,
thighs, neck, and head; in the Nun in too great a de-
velopment of the bib, too many colored flights, too much
coloring in the cap; in the Magpie with too much color
on the breast and back; and so with others of like char-
acter, like the Helmet, the Shield, the Spot, the Jacobin,
and Bald Tumbler. All need to be mated so that the
color shall be evenly distributed in the portions of the
body to which it belongs.

In breeding several varieties together in one loft, with
the utmost care our attempts at perfect breeding will
sometimes be baffled by a very amorous hen receiving
the attentions of a cock more active than her mate. This
does not often occur, and unless one can confine himself
to one variety and one color, is a chance that must be

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BLUE DRAGOON

If the Carrier is first of our varieties the Dragoon
is a close second with its harmonious combination of
shape, color, and size. The Dragoon should be nearly
as large as a Carrier, with a commanding and graceful
carriage, plump and compact; neck, short and thick;
breast, broad and prominent; back, flat; shoulders,
clearly defined; wings, strong, with flights well above
the tail; the tail and flights short but in proportion to
the bird; legs, short with muscular and stout thighs;
head, wedge-shaped; skull, oval in form with stout beak
and mandible. The bird is rich, deep blue, with broad
bars clearly defined.

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axen, although at times very provoking. Solid-colored
birds are the most satisfactory and easiest to breed, and
do not need quite as fine judgment in mating as the
parti-colored varieties. For this reason some discard
al] others and confine themselves to birds of one color.

While the difficulties attending the breeding of birds
of mixed color are more numerous than that of whole
colors, the satisfaction derived from producing good
specimens in this line well repays the trials and vexation
one is liable to in the attempt. After the second year’s
breeding one ought to be able to form some correct idea
of how to mate his young birds. He also surely knows
by this time what his original stock will produce and be
prepared to make such changes as his judgment dictates
in them. If the original stock live and breed well to-
gether by all means let well enough alone. If, however,
he finds that their progeny come foully marked, or as
it is in the case of parti-colored birds, show too much
color, or in the case of solid-colored birds, show deficien-
cies or excesses of certain required points, then it will
be best to make a change, “breaking” the pair and try-
ing them again with mates of your own selection. Per-
haps a union with some of their own offspring will pro-
duce good results; mating the parent bird, that is de-
ficient in some qualities, with a young bird that has an
excess of such qualities and vice versa.

But there can be no iron-clad law in this matter; it
must be a matter of selection, dictated by your experi-
ence and your acquaintance with your birds. There is
a tendency with all well-bred stock to transmit their
qualities both good and bad, to their offspring, and what
we want in mating, is to so combine the good qualities,
as to reproduce them, to the exclusion of the bad, in the
succeeding generation. I do not suppose the time will

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ever come when we shall see all pigeons perfect. But
experience shows us that all the fancy properties of the
various breeds can be improved, and the study required
is to know how and what to mate to produce standard
birds.

Undoubtedly careful in-breeding goes far towards
perpetuating certain good qualities, but it must be done
with judgment and not in a reckless, thoughtless man-
ner. Having several pairs of one kind bred from one
stock, will aid you much in the matter of mating, and
enable you better to decide how to in-breed them to pro-
duce high-class birds of their variety. All established
strains have been bred for the purpose of perfecting
the characteristics that go to make up a good bird, and
having these characteristics, in a measure, fixed in them
by combining the blood of relatives, it is not as difficult
to improve a deficiency in one bird by mating it to a
bird more perfect in character than it is where entirely
foreign blood is introduced to accomplish same results.
Many a fancier has found that the introduction of such
alien blood, has worked havoc in his flock simply be-
cause he has chosen a bird because it looked well and
of which he knew nothing as to its breeding.

If after your second season’s breeding, you have been
successful in raising a few birds of superior merit, do
not be tempted to part with them, as in them you must
find another step towards perfection in your flock. Like
the friend whose affection has been tried, hold to them
as it were with “hooks of steel,” for they are worth
more to you if you want to keep up the improvement
of your stock than the paltry dollars of your customer.
We are supposing that the fancier is breeding for qual-
ity and the love of the pursuit, and not for the profit
there is in it. This will come when he has so far im-

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proved his flock that he breeds more good specimens
than poor ones. Establish its quality and reputation,
and the profits are sure to follow.

In mating for color properties, it has been found by
experience, that the male generally exercises more in-
fluence in that line than the hen, while inbreeding for
form, size, and other characteristics, the hen exercises
the controlling influence. Bearing this in mind one
should be governed in his mating accordingly, and if
he is looking for improvement in color, be careful in the
selection of the cock. If for size, length of limb, de-
velopment of wattle, size of ,beak, crest or frill, look to
the hen for these qualities chiefly. In other words, if
you are looking for improvement in these particulars
choose hens that are well developed in these respects in
preference to those deficient, and the chances are better
for satisfactory results.

At the commencement of breeding experience, I
would advise the young breeder to keep a correct record
of the breeding of his young stock in such a way that
he can tell at any subsequent moment how each bird
has been bred. This will aid him greatly in the future
when mating up his birds and does not oblige him to
trust to memory, which is a very unreliable manner of
keeping a pedigree. By knowing the breeding of each
specimen, he is enabled to tell whether descended from
a pair closely related to each other or not: whether the
pair had too much color, too great a deficiency in some
desirable property, or whether inclined to throw birds
of superior quality generally. Knowing the tendencies
of the parent birds on both sides, he can form a clearer
and more correct judgment as to what he may expect
from the two that he wants to put together, and so
guard against mating young birds that both come from

30
 

ARCHANGEL

The Archangel is practically a modern production, but
its beautiful plumage is rapidly making it a favorite.
It is like other varieties as to its shape, size, and car-
riage, but its markings are distinctive. The head, neck,
breast, and under-parts as far as the vent and thighs,
are a rich copper-bronze color with a beautiful metallic
luster. The wings, back and rump, are bronze-black.
with tail a blue-black. They are naturally wild and

graceful.

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parents with tendency to breed to extremes in any par-
ticular points. This keeping of pedigree and aiming at
all times towards perfection, is one step towards build-
ing up a strain.

After selecting the variety or varieties you want to
keep, study well the required standard of these kinds
and then proceed, if necessary, with one property at a
time, perfecting it as far as you can and then take up an-
other, harmonizing all as far as possible, and not per-
fecting one or two peculiarities, to the neglect of others.
Tor instance, if in Carriers, do not try to perfect their
wattling and forget length of beak, length of neck, and
carriage. If in Pouters, do not perfect length and feath-
ering of leg, to the exclusion of size of crop and length
of feather. And so through all the different varieties,
endeavor to equalize all properties for-which the variety
is distinguished, and so make a pleasing whole. Time
and patience are required for all this, but it will be time
and patience well expended, for in the end you will have
created a family whose offspring are almost certain of
being suitable for exhibition, a feature that determines
the quality of any kind of stock. To say they are fit to
exhibit means they are of quality to compare with the
best. Reaching this period you are then ready to reap
your harvest of “gold”, as birds with such a reputation
never lack for customers or a market.

~—-

g2
CHAPTER VI

 

THe PLEASURE OF PIGEON KEEPING .

According to our population, the proportion that ap-
pears to love and enjoy the keeping and breeding of
fancy pigeons is small. This is perhaps owing to the
fact that we are such a practical people and want to see
money returns in all our investments. And every one
who indulges in this luxury knows that the cash returns
for the money invested and the time and care devoted
to such an amusement do not cover the expense.

If every pigeon raised were worth its weight in gold,
the breeders would be like the leaves of the forest.
With their attractiveness and beauty, it would seem as
if every country home at least should have its place for
pigeons; and no doubt if the pleasure derived from
watching and caring for them were understood, it would
be a recreation more generally indulged in. But the
ignorance displayed among country towns and villages
concerning the habits, beauties, and lovable qualities of
these choicest of pets is astonishing and lamentable.
Nowhere is it more frequently made apparent than at
our fall shows. The judge, in performance of his du-
ties, is called upon to answer the most absurd questions
and listen to most amusing comments, such as “What
makes that bird blow his breast out like that? I should
not think he could see to eat. Does it make him ‘flv any
better?” and “Oh, John! just come here and see this
pigeon—how mad he is; he raises the feathers upon his
neck just like a cat!” and “Do those birds with the big
tails have to carry them that way all the time? I should

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think it would make them tired.” These are only a few
samples of what the judge has to hear. But I repeat, it
shows lamentable ignorance among those whom we
would suppose should at least know something of the
characteristics of these denizens of the loft.

If pigeon breeding were more general and the same
pains taken with them that is given to cage-birds,
the dove-cote would soon become as necessary to
every country house as the flowers that bloom in the
door-yard, and these we all know are only kept alive and
brought to perfection by constant care. It is said that
in Arabia every mud-hut has its accommodations for
pigeons; in Russia they are well known and regarded
as sacred, and every one has heard of the pigeons of
Venice. The old Romans were great lovers of fancy
pigeons, and Pliny says of his countrymen: “Many are
mad with the love of them; they build towers on the top
of their roofs and will relate the high breeding and an-
cestry of each.” So that we may see from this that
pedigree breeding is no modern idea; and as to the
madness of our modern fanciers, when a man pays $250
and $300 for a pair of pigeons, those not interested
might well think him mad. People of oriental countries
have from time inimemorial been fanciers, and some of
our choicest varieties—in fact, I may say most of them—
had their origin in those far-off lands. We send mis-
sionaries to teach thém our religion; they might send
missionaries to us to teach us of the pleasure to be de-
rived from originating new varieties of pigeons and in
perfecting those we already know. My observation
teaches me that while the fancy may not be increasing
in numbers, it is certainly increasing in the knowledge
of the principles of breeding, as is shown by the im-
provement in all varieties of pigeons known to us. Note

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particularly the Fantails, the Jacobins, the Archangels,
the Magpies, and the Oriental Frills. I mention these
because they at present are the most prominent; but
Turbits, Tumblers, Owls, Swallows, and all the old
favorites show the effect of increased knowledge and
care in breeding. The difficulty as to increase in the
numbers of the fancy lies in the fact that so many, as
age comes on, are obliged to give up their pets through
the demands of business on their minds and time. I
could count by scores men that I have known who were
the most ardent of fanciers, who to-day do not own a
bird, but there are few of those who, if circumstances
would permit, but would return to their love and again
take up the pursuit.

. Much has been written as to encouraging the love of
pigeons among children, and it is no doubt from among
the younger portion of the community that we must
look for recruits; still if it were not for the older and
more experienced heads we would not have seen the
advancement in pigeon culture that we have in the past -
few years. So let us hope that those maturer minds
who are now doing so much to elevate the standard of
Pigeons, may long be spared to us to keep up the interest
and enlighten and encourage the young.

The question is often asked by the uninitiated, what
are fancy pigeons good for? What are they kept for?
Our answer is always, only for pleasure. And then we
enter into a dissertation of how one man finds pleasure in
developing the fancy poirits of such varieties as Pouters
and Carriers; another of Barbs or Almond Tumblers.
How one has a passion to possess a fine flock of all the
different colors of Swallows. How another makes a
siudy of Nuns, breeding them with an aim to perfecting
them to such an extent that they shall have the neces-

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sary marking of the head and throat, the perfect number
of flights in each wing, and the necessary number of
colored tail-feathers free from blemish. Some become
so infatuated as to desire to possess specimens of all the
different varieties. This involves not only great ex-
pense, but requires spacious accommodations and help
to care for them. Such a hobby soon runs its course,
and the fancier, if he does not wholly relinquish the
amusement, settles down on one or two pretty varieties,
and finds that time devoted to developing their good
qualities is time much more satisfactorily spent than
when divided among so many.

The question is often asked, also, who comprise your
fanciers? are they all boys? For this seems like a boyish
amusement. But no, the fanciers are as varied in age
and occupation as the pigeons themselves. We have
physicians, lawyers, clergymen, merchants, gentlemen
of leisure, shoe-makers, carpenters, blacksmiths, labor-
ers, and boys of all ages. There is no restriction placed
upon converts to this fancy; it is a free-for-all amuse-
ment, and all that is needed is the love for it and the
wherewithal to gratify such a love or taste. So like-
wise the accommodations are as varied as the votaries
of the pleasure. Some are satisfied with a few boxes
placed against a wall; others, again, with the gable end
of a house, or barn, and others spend hundreds of dol-
lars in elaborately-arranged and furnished aviaries,
where the pigeons are supplied with every luxury that
they have a love for, and where friends and visitors can
sit and enjoy their many pretty ways, and varied forms
and plumage. But be the accommodations humble or
magnificent, the enjoyment obtained is as great for one
as for the other. The poor man’s pets have as many at-
tractions for him as do the more favored ones of the

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wealthy fancier for their owner. The nature and habits
of the pigeons are not changed by their’ surroundings.
Billing and cooing, pairing and breeding go on as
“happily in fhe “hovel as in the mansion, and the poor
man, sitting on his haunches in his cramped and con-
tracted garret, sees as much to admire, love and delight
him as his more favored brother, with his aviaries of
wire and glass. ;
All classes of fanciers find the pigeon-loft and aviary
a pleasant place to pass a restful hour. Here the phy-
sician, while watching his birds, can calmly study out
some efficient remedy for a baffling disease; the lawyer :
smoke and solve a knotty problem of law; the clergy-
man find’ practical matter for a sermon from the text,
“Yet shall ye be as the wings of a dove, that is covered
with silver wings, and her feathers like gold”; the mer-
chant find relief from the perplexity of figures and the
importunity of collectors; the man of leisure from the
demands of society and the whirl of fashionable life. The
shoemaker, the carpenter, the blacksmith, and the labor-
er seek their lofts in the early morning, and when the
day’s work is done; and the pleasure they derive in
handling and caring for their pets serves to cheer and
lighten their labors through the following day, and is
a loadstone that: helps to call them home when the day’s
labors are ended. Many a man and boy have been kept
‘\ from evil associations by the attractions afforded by a
few pigeons about their humble homes. me
While each may have his favorites, and derive pleas-
ure from the various kinds he owns, those who keep a
flock of flying pigeons, such as Antwerps, Dragoons, or
any of the varied family of Tumblers, probably find a
greater diversity of amusement than those who have
nothing to admire but form and feather. The mania or

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iad for pigeon flyirig is not a modern idea. As long
as pigeons have been kept for. pets, a certain portion of
the fanciers have found recreation in training individual
families as flyers, until the factilty for flyifig long and
high has been fixed in these particular varieties and now
the quality is transmitted from parent to offspring, and
all that is necessary is the practice to develop it.

History informs us that all the nations of Asia and
portions of Africa have used pigeons as a means of com-
munication from time immemorial. The Turks, the
Greeks, and the Romans were all lovers of the sport,
and there is no question but what they used Carriers, as
they were then called, for conveying messages from one
section to another while their armies were in motion.
An old song tells of a warrior wounded in battle send-
ing a message to his love, and he apostrophizes the bird
in this manner:

“Fly away to my native land, sweet bird,
Fly away to my native land;
And bear these lines to my lady-love,
I have traced, with.a feeble hand.
She marvels much at my long delay,
A rumor of death she has heard,
Or she thinks, perhaps, I have falsely strayed;
Fly away to her bower, sweet bird.”

Pliny tells us that when Decimus Junius Brutus was
besieged in Mutina forty-three years B. C. by Mark
Anthony, anc the Roman consuls, Heirtius and Pansa,
came to raise the siege, Brutus communicated with the
consuls by pigeons that flew over the heads of the be-
siegers, thus setting at naught the blockade so securely
established. It is also said that a certain Mohammedan
ruler of Syria and Egypt, one Nour-ed-deen Makinoud
who reigned between the years 1145 and 1174 A. D., had
a systematic pigeon postal service from his residence

08
 

APRICAN OWL

This jaunty and graceful little bird is much admired
and its delicacy elone probably keeps it from being
more extensively cultivated. It is a native of Africa
and the difference of temperature necessarily makes
it difficult for it to stand a great climatic change. In
shape it is compact with very round skull and short,
stout beak.

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to various parts of his dominion. Towers were built at
various points along the routes, and at these points were
stationed watchmen whose, business it was to look after
the welfare of the pigeons. Numerous instances in
which pigeons were uséd as messengers by the ancients
are on record thus establishing the fact of the antiquity
ot pigeon flying.

France and England, before the days of the telegraph
and the telephone, used pigeons as means of transmit-
ting important financial news and racing events, from
one capital to the other, and in our own America, Car-
riers were often used for this purpose before Morse
with his great invention annihilated space. Belgium
has long been noted for its splendid varieties of Homing
Pigeons, and it is from this quarter that we have re-
ceived some of the best stock known in America, and
as Antwerp has long been the principal port from which
shipments have been made we have come to know all
this variety of birds as Antwerps.

All pigeons are very much attached to their homes,
but all have not the organ of locality developed alike.
Some birds when taken but a short distance from home
become dazed and lost, and while they show every evi-
dence of delight when returned to their home, they do
not seem to have the faculty to find it of their own ac-
cord. Others again have this organ largely developed,
and it is this that enables them to find their way when
taken hundreds of miles from horne,

“O’er moor and fen,
O’er craig and torrent,”

till that home is reached.
Undoubtedly by careful breeding and training this
quality has been improved and encouraged and has given

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us the splendid races of Homing Pigeons we now have.
It was for a long time a disputed question by what
means a pigeon “voyageur” found his way home when
liberated at great distances from it, some claiming it
was by sight alone, others that it was by instinct, and
that a good bird would find its cote if tossed in any di-
rection. But experience has taught that it is by sight,
aided by this faculty of recognizing localities quickly,
that the pigeon finds its home. Flying, as they do when
at liberty, at a great altitude, they become acquainted
with every prominent object about their homes—steep-
les, domes, lofty buildings, .rivers, lakes, and trees.
When put in training they are taken at first a short dis-
tance from the loft. As soon as liberated and they have
themselves well gathered together, as it were, for a
flight, they begin to fly in circles, constantly widening
as they ascend, and keep this up until reaching a height
at which they can discern some familiar object., They
at once strike for this knowing that their goal is in that
direction. Frequent practice of this kind familiarizes
them with all the country between the points from
which they are started and home.

I am inclined to believe that rivers and lakes are
prominent guides for the Homing bird. At the great
heights to which they rise, especially when in a new lo-
cality, the lakes and rivers, like silver mirrors and
threads, are more prominent than other objects, and by
following their course they are led to more familiar
scenes. Pigeons flying where the landscape is familiar
do not fly as high as where it is comparatively
strange; another proof that they are guided chief-
ly by sight. While sight is the Homing Pigeon’s
main dependence, it is aided by a certain amount of in-
*elligence and a large amount of courage, patience, and

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endurance. Without these qualities they would be no
success as long-distance flyers; and it is only the birds
possessed of these qualities in a high degree that return
from the three, four, and five-hundred-mile races.
Hundreds sent out to cover these distances never return,
which makes Homing Pigeon flying’ an expensive
amusement. But-the cock or hen that succeeds in mak-
ing these long distances, and doing it several times in
succession, becomes an idol in the loft of its owner.
While many pigeons will fly quite a distance, such as
the Owl, the Swallow, the Dragoon, the Archangel, the
Tumbler, and others, still birds kept for the particular
amusement of long-distance flying are mainly the vari-
ety already mentioned—the Antwerp. To establish a
flock of this variety with a view to flying them, it will
be necessary to begin with young birds that never have
flown, as old birds would return to their birthplace if
once flown from there, or else become lost when let
loose. Young birds can be raised from old ones pur-
chased and kept confined, or they can be purchased
when just able to care for themselves, and as soon as
able to fly allowed their liberty about their new home.
They will know no other, and so be contented and al-
ways have a love for that locality. After having be-
come well acquainted with their outdoor surroundings
and grown strong and hearty, they can commence their
training for long-distance flying. At first they should
be taken five miles from home and liberated. If they
are successful in returning they can again be taken this
distance, then increased to ten, then to twenty, and so
on by gradual steps and constantly increasing distances
until they have become fitted for the supreme effort of
their lives, the 500-mile distance. Few birds accom-
plish this feat, but those that are capable of it are worthy

102
 

ENGLISH OWL

The English Owl to-day is a very different one from
that of forty or fifty years ago. It was small and at-
tractive, but lacking the head-properties that it now has.
It is a strong, healthy bird, plump, with prominent
breast and broad chest; the wings are strong and mus-
cular; neck, short and thick; legs, short and without
any feathering below the hock; tail and flights, very
short, and the head, which should be large, broad,
heavy, and massive, is carried in a jaunty and kingly
fashion; beak is short, curving downward, and carrying
out an unbroken curve from back of head to tip of
beak; the beak-wattle is fine and small; eye, set low in
head, is bold and prominent; the gullet must be largely
developed, commencing from under the lower mandible
and running into the rosette. There are Blues, Silvers,
Powdered Blues and Silvers, Blue and Silver Chequers,
Whites, Yellows, and Reds.

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of all the praise they receive. Care needs to be used
not to “over-train,” as it is called, or otherwise not to
call upon your birds to make long-distance flies too fre-
quently and so overtax their strength. But while re-
cuperating from their fifty and 1oo-mile flights, for in-
stance, they need daily exereise, which should be given
twice each day, morning and afternoon. In this way
they are more apt to fly high and circle wide than
though entire freedom through the day were given
them.

These flights can be encouraged by starting them off
and frequently waving a small flag attached to a long,
light pole, called by some fanciers a “flatterer.” They
soon come to understand what this means, and will cir-
cle and mount to great heights. By this means they be-
come thoroughly familiar with the landscape for miles
around, and the exercise strengthens their muscles and
gives them the knowledge of localities that aids them
in their future long-distance flights. After flying an
hour or so they should be allowed to alight, when they
will at once come into the loft for a drink. At this
time they should be given a little hemp, canary, or
coriander-seed, and have their morning or evening feed.
This answers as a reward and as a stimulus to return
home. A hungry bird, like a hungry horse, when
turned towards home, has not only the love of home
to encourage, but the knowledge that plenty of good
food and water is to be found there when that home is
reached. Birds trained and exercised in this manner
are always active, alert, and strong. Naturally it makes
them a little wild, but this is no detriment to a Homer,
this very feature being an advantage, as it makes them
cautious of dangers and watchful for enemies while on
the wing. :

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Pigeons when sent or taken for their long journeys
should be carried in roomy, airy baskets, and should not
be crowded, as this would tend to soil and ruffle their
plumage and thus unfit them for a successful flight.
Just before starting, say an hour, they should have fresh
water and a liberal feed; they will not then have to fly
with a loaded crop, as their food will be partially di-
gested, and they will yet be well fortified for a long
flight. Where Antwerps are used for carrying mes-
sages long distances, in consequence of the difficulties
they are subject to, such as murderous gunners, birds
of prey, storms, variable winds, etc., several should be
started at a time, each bearing the same message ; this
will be more likely to insure its delivery, as all will hard-
ly be likely to fail in making the journey. Various ways
of attaching a message to the pigeon are used. Some
fasten it about one leg, securing it in place by small
rubber bands, others fasten it around one of the quill-
feathers of the tail, while others again place it between
two quills of the tail, and wrap them together with
thread, worsted, or rubber bands. But the most secure
and modern method is the aluminum message-holder.
The message should be written on a slip of silk paper,
as this is light and can be rolled very closely. When
written fine and closely a great deal can be said on a
small piece of such paper. Should the message be of
great importance and private, it can be written in cypher
and translated by a code previously agreed upon. Com-
munication of this kind was frequently used during the
late Franco-Prussian war to good advantage, and Ant-
werps are still kept by the different governments of
Europe with an eye tc tuture emergencies in time of
war, and receive regular and systematic training. Our
own government has used Homing Pigeons as means

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of communication between its frontier posts for
some years, and found them of great advantage, al-
though not always reliable, from the attacks they were
subject to from hawks. Writing of hawks, reminds me
of a curious plan the Chinese pursue to protect pigeons
from the numerous small hawks that are common to
that country. A visitor to that section writes: “While
enjoying the curious sights that everywhere met my eye,
my attention was called to a succession of peculiar shrill
whistles, that seemed to come from the space over our
heads. On looking up I could see nothing but a flock
of pigeons circling about. Being unable to solve the
mystery, I called the attention of our host to the singu-
lar sounds, when he laughingly replied: ‘Oh, that is
made by the pigeons, and is caused by a small whistle
attached to the tail-feathers of certain of the birds, and
is placed there to scare away the hawks, which it is very
effectual in doing.’ The whistle is so arranged that the
pigeon passing through the air causes it to emit at in-
tervals the shrill noises I heard.” Much more could be
said of benefit and interest to those who select Antwerps
as pets. But in this connection we must not forget the
pretty, modest, and attractive little Tumbler family.
They too are kept as flyers, but not for racing nor mes-
senger purposes although even they will readily return
home from ten and: fifteen miles distance. I well re-
member a beautiful flock of Long-faced Red Tumblers
I once possessed, and it was in connection with them
I first learned how strong the homing instinct was de-
veloped in the Tumbler. An English-born friend had
been a fancier in his boyhood and on seeing my flock
the old fancy took possession of him again, and nothing
would satisfy him but a family of the same kind. Ac-
cordjagly a bargain was made and he became the pos-

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sessor, much against my desire, of a pair of my little
beauties. A paper flour-sack was provided, some -holes
cut in it for air, and he marched off the happy owner
of what he considered the nucleus of as fine a flock as
I had. His home was about ten miles from mine and
I bid adieu to my little friends never expecting to see
them again. But one day when paying my usual even-
ing visit to my pigeons, I found the pair I had sold him
occupying their old position in the loft. I could not be-
lieve it was them, so counted my birds over, and, sure
enough, I was two ahead of my usual count. A few
days after he called on me again to see if I would not
let him have another pair, and with a sorrowful face
related how he had kept these confined until he thought
they were thoroughly wonted to their home, and think- .
ing to give them some exercise, turned them out the
very day I discovered them in their old location. He
said they soared around for a few moments, mounting
higher and higher, and finally darted off to the west and
he had never seen them since. When told they were
safe and that they were still his, a happier man was
never seen. Again he took them away, and kept them
confined until he had reared several pairs of young,
when, thinking that they must surely have forgotten
their old home, he once more gave them their liberty,
and I again was surprised to find them at night in their
old place. Three times they came back to me during the
year, and the last time it was agreed between us that
they should stay, since the old home seemed so dear to
them.

But, as I have said, they are not kept for long journeys
but for high flying ; that is, soaring to great heights from
the earth, although the above experience proves that
they possess the homing faculty to some extent. The

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variety, form, and color of flying Tumblers is almost
numberless, and embraces varieties known by many
different names, such as Rose Wings, Mottles, Grizzles,
Bald Heads, Badges, Saddles, Splashes, Tipplers,
Beards, Birmingham Rollers, Almonds, Kites, High
Flyers, Oriental Rollers, etc. Some of these are muffed
or booted, others again are without booting, and are
known as plain legged. Each variety has its peculiari-
ties, some tumbling only once in awhile during their
flights, others like the Birmingham and Oriental Rollers,
tumbling over and over several times, while still others
although known as Tumblers never tumble. They are
a beautiful family of pigeons, however, and no matter
which variety or varieties are kept, they afford an un-
limited amount of pleasure.

The quality of high-flying in Tumblers, as with long-
distance flying in the Antwerp, has to be taught them,
and is done by allowing them their liberty but once or
twice each day, and at that time keeping them on the
wing with the flag previously spoken of in connection
with Antwerps. The same course of feeding as with
Antwerps needs to be observed with “flying Tumblers.”
The question of whether the fancier wants a flock of
high flyers that simply fly high and never tumbler, or
whether he wants a flock that tumble well and fly high
also, is one to be determined by himself. Birds that
tumble are not as likely to prove as good in high-flying
and long-staying qualities as those that do not tumble.
By long-staying qualities, I mean ability to keep on the
wing for hours, some flocks staying up for the period of
twelve to fourteen hours, and this at such a height as to
be at times invisible to the naked eye, but to my mind
the birds that tumble as they fly are the most enjoyable.
It takes time to collect a good family of such birds, as it

108
 

ALMOND TUMBLER COCK

Though this is a most popular variety of the Short-
faced Tumbler, even the breeders have little pleasure in
raising them on account of the diversity of opinion as
regards the color. “The same color as the shell of the
almond,” but how many different-colored almonds are
there? The ground-color should be in tint like the
inside shell of the almond; the head, neék, chest, back,
and wing-coverts, spangled with rich black; tail and
flights, showing three distinct colors—almond, black, and
white in uneven patches. They are erect and jaunty,
with head large and round, well thrown back; neck,
short, arched, broad at base, but very slender at throat;
chest, broad, prominent; wing-coverts, spreading; back,
slightly raised; beak, short, straight, horn-colored;
cere and wattles, small and fine; the flights, carried
below the tail but no opening between the two; the
eye large, round, and very prominent, set well back in
the head, silvery, bright, with jet-black, well-defined

pupil.
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is only by proving them by flying that one can deter-
mine their quality. There is nothing to indicate this
quality in their appearance, and for this reason most
‘flocks of high flyers ate made up of a motley collection
as far as color in concerned, but time and patience will
allow of making a collection of similar markings and
color if one so desires, and this should be the aim of a
beginner in this class of sports.

A beautiful flock of Mottles, Bald Heads, Beards, or
solid colors is something to be proud of, especially if
added to their coloring you can secure good performing
qualities. In commencing a flock, procure for your first
breeders a few pairs of known good performing powers,
for then you can reasonably expect their young to in-
herit these qualities. If possible these breeders should
be purchased from a point a long distance from your
own breeding-place, otherwise, as they possess the hom-
ing instinct strong, the same as all good flying pigeons,
they will be likely to leave you as soon as released.
These old birds you will have to depend upon to train
the younger birds, and consequently it is necessary that
they should become thoroughly attached to their new
home. Kind treatment, regular and careful feeding will
do much to accomplish this. Daily exercise in the en-
closed area I have previously recommended for all pig-
eon-houses or lofts will familiarize them with surrounc-
ings, and then when first liberated, which should -.ot b~
until some months have passed after their purchase,
they should be ‘allowed to go and come at will, never
startling them nor attempting to prove their flying qual-
ities. A week Ormore of such freedom accustoms them
to the locality, and they are ready for their first lessors.
It is presumable that during the time they have been

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confined a goodly family of youngsters has been com-
ing on, that are themselves in good flying trim.

The flock can be liberated some clear, fine morning.
It may be necessary to frighten them at first to make
them all rise at once, and as soon as they are well
bunched together commence waving the: flag I have
cautioned you against providing, gently at first, and as
they ascend more vigorously. The older birds will
understand its meaning and begin to “climb up,” the
young ones following. After flying awhile, they should
be allowed to alight and come into the loft, where they
should find fresh food and water. They should be kept
confined until three or four in the afternoon, when an-
other lesson can be given them, and so proceed with
them every day, until at last as soon as they are liberated
they will dart up and begin to circle until they reach
so great a height that the neck aches with watching and
the eye can detect nothing but an occasional sparkle as
some one or more individual birds perform a somer-
sault. Good performing birds tumble as they rise, and
it is a beautiful sight to see them all going through
their peculiar gyrations, keeping close together, the sun
glistening on their plumage, and they constantly rising
higher and higher until they appear as mere glimmer-
ing specks far up in the ether.

While training attention must be given to those that
lag, for we want no laggards in such a flock. Such
birds should be disposed of in some way and not
kept even as breeders. Care must be observed
not to liberate them on a stormy or foggy day,
or they may lose their bearings and be hopelessly lost.
Breeding birds should not be allowed to fly too long,
or their eggs will get cold; consequently it is not best
to fly them so often during the breeding season. Young

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birds when commencing to fly sometimes fail in their
attempts at making a complete somersault ; such birds
can be assisted sometimes by the removal of one or two
of the central tail-feathers, or by cutting off a portion
of the tail. If even after such treatment it is found that
they can not get over, they should be discarded if the
object is to establish a flock composed entirely of good
performers. It is necessary that they have exercise at
least once each day when weather permits, otherwise
they become fat and disinclined to both soar high and
tumble. Where kept in constant practice they show well
at any time when let out, and as to display their abilities
to visiting fanciers is one of the pleasures of their keep-
er, by keeping them always in good trim they are in con-
dition to satisfy their owner’s pride at all times. Among
all the pretty varieties for this purpose none surpasses an
assorted lot of Bald Heads. They are not only pretty
to look at in the loft, but are handsome and attractive
while on the wing. It is no easy matter to collect such
a flock, but time will accomplish it, and when gathered
together with the qualities already described they are a
“joy forever.”

Many are satisfied with a promiscuous lot, caring
nothing about color so they fly well and tumble; such
a flock it is less difficult to establish, and while not as at-
tractive as a selected lot of Balds, still affords an im-
mense amount of satisfaction and amusemnt. Our Eng-
lish brethren have flocks of high flyers that they place in
competition with one another, the same as do Antwerp
flyers, the birds flying thé longest winning the prizes..
Little, if anything, has been done in this way in Amer-
ica, and herein lies a source of amusement for our fan-
ciers that will give fully as much satisfaction and be less
expensive than Homing Pigeon races. The English pa-

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vers mention in their reports of such races flocks that,
though liberated at 6:30 a. m., did not return until 7:30
and 8 p. m. of same day. This shows a marvellous
amount of endurance, equal to that of the Homer, and
when we think that most of this time they are so high up
that the eye can hardly distinguish them, and frequently
are entirely beyond the range of vision, it seems won-
derful, indeed, and awakens at once a greater degree of
interest in these little pets. We praise man for his valor-
ous deeds, the horse for his wonderful bursts of speed,
and the dog for his great intelligence, then why should
we not render our meed of praise to the little aerial voy-
ageur whose surprising performance on the wing makes
us open our eyes in astonishment that one so small
should accomplish so much?

Contra-distinct from the high-flying Tumbler we
have another little pigeon pet, that is kept for amuse-
ment and as a curiosity. I refer to the “inside” house
or ground Tumbler. This little pigeon, while the coun-
terpart in size, form, and coloring of the common Out-
side Tumbler, differs from it in the fact that it is so
constituted as to be unable, as a rule, to rise to any
great height on account of its tumbling proclivities.
For this reason it is usually kept confined and never
allowed entire freedom for fear it should become the
prey of cats, dogs, and other lovers of pigeon flesh.

The origin of this variety of Tumbler is rather uncer-
tain. Brent, an English writer, speaks of them as a
Scotch variety. Tegetmeier, a noted English writer and
judge, mentions a pigeon peculiar to India that rolls or
tumbles when shaken from side to side and then placed
on the ground. As I have never seen such specimens.
in America nor heard of their being bred in England,
we can hardly expect to trace our little Inside Tumblers.

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to that source. I have long been of the opinion that
they originated in or about Philadelphia, and in corres-
pondence with an old-time fancier of this novel variety,
Mr. T. S. Armstrong, he writes me as follows: “ My
experience and recollection of Inside Tumblers com-
mences about thirty-five years ago. At that time it was
very seldom that we could get a bird that would ever
perform in a large room. I don’t think that I ever saw a
bird turn over within six inches of the floor until at
least ten vears later.”

I have maintained that Inside Tumblers, or at least
what we call inside birds, are strictly a Philadelphia
breed, and to the manor born. Wright and other Eng-
lish writers refer to them rarely, and when they do it
seems to me that their ideas and our own differ very
much. Years back very little attention was paid to any
point except tumbling. We would select the best Out-
side Tumblers we could get without regard to shape,
color, etc., only so they performed well, “came down in
a roll” as the boys used to say; price was no object.
Then we would fly the young ones from six months to
a year; those that stayed down and were not gobbled up
by cats, we would select as the future breeders. So we
kept on, and as I write, old names come up that I had
well nigh forgotten. English Dave, Harry Herdegen.
Mike Grogg, Tommy Walls, Bill Runye, and about as
many more that I can not bring to mind, many of them
having passed over the border. Yet to these men be-
long the credit in my estimation of the origin of the
real simon pure and only Inside Tumblers.

After a few years of patient experimenting more at-
tention was paid to breeding to color, and after ten or
fifteen years, birds began to come that we could not let
out nor fly, and at the present time we do not think of

114
 

MUFFED ROSEWING TUMBLER

This is a fairly easy bird to breed, being hardy and
easy to manage. It is a bold and jaunty bird, though
small, plump, and short in body; broad-chested; head,
round; neck, shapely, though short; muscular should-
ers; light horn-colored beak, thin and straight; eyes,
white or pearl, with small, smooth wattles; short legs
and small feet; muff, plentiful and the outer edge in
the form of a half circle coming in to hock, if possi-
ble, without break. The color should be even with
white circular marks on wings and back.

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such a thing. A bird that can get up three feet is not
an inside bird, he is only a “corny.” To Mr. William
Fable (now dead some eighteen months) belongs some
of the credit of style, head, .and beak-qualities, rich and
uniform coloring combined with the main characteris-
tics, and some I take to myself. You remember yourself
the famous, pure-white, pearl-eyed birds I used to have,
and sold as high as $100 per pair.

Such, undoubtedly, is the history of the origin of this
interesting and amusing little pigeon, and confirms my
convictions that Philadelphia was where they origi-
nated. Here they have always had admirers and been
carefully bred, and to-day probably there are more In-
side Tumblers to be found than any other single place
in America.

The fancier who may be unable to keep pigeons be-
cause he can not allow them to fly, can find an immense
amount of pleasure, comfort, and profit in breeding
these little pets. An unused, well-lighted room in the
house, or a neat little house in the vard, could be ar-
ranged to accommodate six to ten pairs. Here they can
be treated the same as other pigeons, as far as feeding,
watering, and other care is concerned, and they wi!l
pair and breed, producing, if well-managed, from four
to six pairs each in a season. Their colors are not as
various as that of flying Tumblers, and are chiefly con-
fined to Mottles, Grizzles, and solid colors. The habit
of tumbling varies in different specimens, some rising
to the height of three or four feet before making a
somersault, others can not rise from the floor on ac-
count of their tumbling. These last are more of cur-
iosities, but do not give as much satisfaction according
to my idea, as those that rise three or four feet and then
make two complete somersaults before striking the floor.

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It is done very neatly, and they always land on their
feet. In fact, the little fellows that can not rise from the
floor always, after a turn, land on their feet.

The question whether it is a pleasure to them is one
hard to.answer. But the fact that they try to avoid
raising, and only tumble when startled, inclines me to
believe that it is a nervous affection, and not a volun-
tary action, and that when startled they lose conirol of
themselves and in trying to rise go over backwards.
The fancier wishing to display their qualities to a visitor
usually takes: a small stick and strikes the floor behind
them, sometimes they respond at once with a sormer-
sault, at others they will run away, and it requires sev-
eral attempts with the stick to get them to tumble.
Often by scuffing the foot behind them, they will turn
over, but all movements to get them to tumble have
to be sudden.

Young birds of excellent parentage do not always
inherit the qualities of their parents, and can never be
made to tumble in the room,.but as soon as turned out
of doors become good Outside Tumblers, although liable
to lose their control, and tumble to the ground. I call.
to mind a fine black specimen of this kind that had been
flying at large for some time. One day he alighted o:
the eaves of the barn and when he attempted to rise,
would turn a complete somersault, and land on both feet
in the place where he started. It was amusing to see his
look of seeming surprise every time he made a rise and
came back in the old place. He finally made an extra
effort, cleared the barn, and landed in the yard, where
he was picked up and transferred to the Inside Tumbler
room, with the idea that he would be a good bird to
breed from, and as it proved he ever after made a good

inside performer.

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A breeder of this variety wishing to amuse himself
or friends, can take his birds out on the grass plat,
spread a sheet or blanket over the grass, and enjoy their
performances to his heart’s content. While more atter-
tion is paid in breeding them, to mate them with a view
to perpetuate the tumbling quality, good breeders, when
possible, iike to mate also, so as to preserve a uniformity
in color, and I have seen very pretty collections of Mot-
tles, also Reds and Yellows, and note particularly *the
beautiful, pure-white specimens mentioned by Mr. Arm-
strong. He gave up the breeding of this particular
variety some years ago and his stock, like that of many
another successful retiring fancier, was scattered and
their identity completely lost.

The history of this little pigeon is an evidence of what
persistent effort and time will accomplish, and shoul
be an incentive to fanciers of any particular variety, to
set their standard high, knowing that patience and good
judgment will enable them in time to accomplish all they
desire, and that their attempts at perfection will add a
keener zest to the pleasures of pigeon keeping. __

118
CHAPTER VII

DISEASES OF PIGEONS

While pigeons living under natural conditions and
with unrestrained liberty are rarely, if at all, subject to
disease, pigeons kept under control and even partial
confinement are subject to a variety of diseases, brought
about, no doubt, by this artificial manner of living. Lack
of proper exercise, breathing tainted air, improper food,
and unclean water have much to do with causing a dis-
eased condition. Consequently it stands a fancier well
in hand to provide especially clean, roomy apartments,
to give all the open-air exercise possible (if not feasible
to allow perfect liberty, then provide roomy areas for
the pigeons to fly about in), feed sound, clean grain, and
furnish a supply of fresh, clean water at all times.

Many of the infectious diseases, such as roup, canker,
etc., are, no doubt, communicated through the medium
of food and water. For instance, a bird with roup will
pick among the grain in the feeding-dishes for some
favorite grain; in doing so he throws the other grain
aside with his bill, and the grain naturally becomes
polluted with the secretions from his nostrils. This
grain being afterwards picked up by other birds the
disease is thus spread. So in drinking, the diseased
pigeon thrusts its beak up to its nostrils into the drink-
ing-water, and thus the water becomes contaminated.
It is, therefore, absolutely necessary to remove, as soon
as possible, from the main flock any specimens showing
symptoms of disease. Daily observation will acquaint
you so well with your birds that you will notice at a

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

glance almost if any individual specimen is ailing.
Prompt attention to it will save loss and a great amount
of trouble. It should be removed at once to a separate
apartment and given the best of care.

Prompt attention and the application of the different
remedies I shall suggest will usually prove efficacious
and save your birds and prevent an epidemic. The old
adages, “A stitch in time sayes nine,” and “An ounce
of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” are maxims
that can not be too closely observed. In purchasing
new stock be careful that they come from healthy lofts.
If you have any suspicions place them in quarantine,
as I have advised with birds returning from an ex-
hibition, for the presence of one or two birds suffering
from roup, canker, or even a louse-infected loft may
cause you an endless amount of trouble and the loss of
some of your best birds.

For the sake of a better understanding of the diseases
of pigeons, I purpose classifying them under different
heads or divisions:

FIRST DIVISION

 

DISEASES OF THE Heap, Brain, AND NERvous SySTEM

APOPLEXY
While not a common disease among pigeons, cases
sometimes occur, especially among birds kept closely
confined, highly fed, and having little exercise. The
birds may be suddenly startled, one will rise with the
rest, fall back to the floor, move around in a dazed con-
dition, and when taken in the hand suddenly gasp and

I20 :
 

MUFFLED SILVER LONG-FACED TUMBLER COCK

This bird is alike in points to the other Tumblers,
and is a soft, creamy white, with dark bars; the dark-
er the better to form the contrast. They have many
admirers in this country and they make an elegant
variety to breed from a fancier’s standpoint.

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fall over dead. This I should call apoplexy. An ex-
amination will prove that it is fat and showing no in-
dication of disease. The trouble is caused, no doubt,
by a rupture of some blood-vessel in the brain produced
by the sudden fright. Should it fall and yet live, give
six pellets of belladonna every two hours.

VERTIGO

This is a disease peculiar also to highly-fed and pam-
pered birds. The symptoms are a staggering gait when
attempting to walk and frequently falling forward on
its breast. Its eyes are dull and-its head is held rigid
and stiff. Hold its head under a gentle stream of cold
water, remove it to a quiet, secluded cage, and give a
gentle purgative—one of Carter’s Little Livér Pills or
half a grain of Epsom salts. Treated homeopathically,
I should give it six pellets of belladonna dissolved in a
cup of water. If it is unable to drink, turn a teaspoon-
ful down its throat every hour or two.

PARALYSIS .

This is also a disease of rare occurrence, and chiefly
affects laying hens, especially young ones. It usually
affects them after laying the second egg. You will
find the sufferer lying on her breast, with her legs
stretched out behind, entirely helpless. Fortunately, as
a rule the trouble is only of short duration. Taken up
and laid in a quiet, retired place, they recover in the
course of a day. Gently rubbing the small of the back
and thighs sometimes hastens recovery. Should the
paralysis not yield after a few days to treatment of this
kind, there is not much hope for it, and it might as well
be put out of its misery. As a remedy, give six pellets
of gelsemium dissolved in a teacup of water.

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INFLAMMATION OF THE EYES

The lids of the eyes frequently become inflamed
through colds or in connection with roup. There is a
sticky secretion, and the bird to relieve itself frequently
rubs its head on its wing-bows, and this soon becomes
fouled and dirty. A white spot sometimes shows itself
in the center of the eyeball, the eye becomes dulled, and
the sight is eventually destroyed. This is usually an
accompaniment of roup, and I have never found it cur-
able. The sight is, no doubt, destroyed before the white
speck appears outwardly. Where there is simply a
slight inflammation of the eyelids caused by cold, bath-
ing the eyes with warm milk and water or a solution of
sugar of lead, which your druggist will prepare for
you, usually effects a cure. What is most necessary
is that it should be taken in time. A gentle laxative,
such as a small pinch of Epsom salts, is beneficial given
once or twice. The homeopathic remedy, gelsemium,
six pellets in a cup of water, is also recommended.

SPOUTS

This is a trouble peculiar to Carriers and Barbs.
It is caused by the rapid growth of the eye-cere or wat-
tle, which instead of spreading out evenly forms a fold
like the spout of a pitcher, and hence its name, spout.
It is usually formed on the lower lid, and is attended
with more or less inflammation in the locality. On the
inside will be found small, angry looking little nodules or
pimples; this induces a secretion that, if neglected,
forms around the lid a yellowish crust of matter. The
inflammation causes the bird to rub its eye for relief on
its shoulder, and this, too, soon becomes covered with the
sticky fluid, which is no improvement to the bird’s ap-
pearance. By some they are supposed to be caused by a

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peck from some of its companions, but experience
proves that it is from the rapid growth of the wattle.
The only cure for them is removing them by a pair of
curved surgical scissors. In cutting be sure to remove
at same time the pimples spoken of, as to leave one of
them is to leave one of the main causes of irritation.
This can be done by drawing the spout well out with the
left-hand fingers and giving a quick cut. Some material
will have to be provided to stop the flow of blood.
Touching the wound with lunar caustic is often done,
which sears up the severed blood-vessels. A small piece
of cobweb is good, and if the bleeding is not very copi-
ous a little flour will answer. It needs two to perform
the operation well, one to hold the bird and one to do
the cutting. After it is cut, and the wound seared over,
rubbing it with a little vaseline occasionally until healed
is beneficial. The feet need to be hoppled for a day or
two to prevent its scratching the eye with the foot,
and a collar of pasteboard should be placed on the neck,
to prevent rubbing the eyes on the shoulder. This can be
made by taking a circular piece of pasteboard about
four inches in diameter, and cutting a hole in it large
enough to slip over the head. By attending to spouts
when they first begin to form they can be easily removed
and the eye-wattles kept smooth and regular. Frequent
bathing with a soft sponge and warm water will do
much towards keeping the wattles clean and in good
condition. Use the homeopathic remedy, apis, six pel-
lets in drinking-cup ; this will allay inflammation.

MEGRIMS

This is a nervous disorder in which the bird staggers
from side to side when attempting to walk, twisting
its neck in all directions, sometimes backwards, again

124
 

YELLOW TURBIT HEN

The Yellow Turbit is another of the attractive varie-
ties of a large family of pigeons. This class of birds
is exceedingly popular and claims a large number of
patrons. They are to be seen in great numbers and
have many ardent admirers at the skows.

i
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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

forward between its legs, and then from side to side,
apparently having no control of it. These actions are
indicative of great distress, and quickly awaken one’s
sympathies in the bird’s behalf. That it is largely a
nervous affection is evident from the fact that it is worse
when startled. It may be standing apparently in a nat-
ural condition and on being disturbed suddenly, it will
begin to throw its head ‘back, and then twisting it as
described and finally rolling over on its side helpless.
It is deemed by some an incurable disease, but I have
found that gently showering the back of the head, keep-
ing it in a quiet place, and giving one-half teaspooniul
of Rochelle salts wet, every third day, often effects a
cure. Unless, however, a valuable bird, I should advise
putting it out of its misery as soon as attacked. It is
caused, no doubt, by high living and insufficient ex-
ercise.

TUMORS

These frequently form on various parts of the head in
the shape of round, hard bunches, which, on examina-
tion, are found movable under the skin. They can be
easily removed by making an incision with a sharp knife
and squeezing the interior lump out. This will be found
to consist of a yellowish, cheesy matter, and is, no
doubt, of scrofulous origin. As soon as removed, have
ready a little burnt alum to sprinkle in the wound; this
congeals the blood and the wound soon heals.

ROUP
This has always been one of the greatest scourges of
the pigeon-loft, because it so frequently attacks the
young birds about the time they are able to care for
themselves and are going through their first molt. It
attacks, however, both old and young, and is caused by

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sudden changes in temperature or exposure to draughts,
and is highly contagious. Its symptoms are sneezing,
a watery discharge from eyes and nostrils, and con-
siderable fever. Ii not attended to at once, in the course
of a day or so the discharge from the nostrils thickens,
and if the bird is examined the slit in the roof of the
mouth wiil be found filled with a thick jelly-like mucus,
sometimes streaked with blood and minute spots of
canker. The throat is very much congested, and the
discharge from the eyes has become thick and sticky.
If still neglected the discharge from the nostrils becomes
fetid-and filled with cheese-like matter, one or the other
of the eyes becomes involved (rarely both) and the eye-
ball is entirely eaten away and its place filled with this
cheesy substance. When it reaches this stage the suf-
ferer might as well be killed, for while I have known
them to recover they are never afterwards desirable as
breeding birds. In your daily visits to your birds
should you notice any of them showing symptoms of
cold, Senate them at once, put them in a dry, warm
place, and dissolve in water six pillules of the homeo-
pathic remedy, spongia. Put this in their drinking-cup,
and you will soon realize its good effects. Should the
whole loft be affected at once, as is sometimes the case
during a cold storm in the fall of the year, dissolve from
one to six dozen of the pillules in water according to the
number of birds, and place this in the general drink-
ing-water vessel. This will be found to be a sovereign
remedy surpassing anything else that can be recom-
mended. It may be necessary in some cases to wash
both eyes and nostrils in warm tea or water to remove
the thickened matter collected there. Renew the drink-
ing-water every other day. Some cases may prove more
obstinate than others, but careful attention and the con-

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tinued use of spongia will bring them through. Swab-
bing the throat with a solution of borax is also excellent.

CROSSED BILLS ‘

While this is. not a disease, still it is an affection of
common occurrence among all varieties of pigeons, and
is caused by the manner of feeding that some old birds
have, and on the principle “as the twig is bent the tree
is inclined,” the young bird’s bill gets a twist that it
never recovers from, and as it grows and the bill hard-
ens it becomes a permanent defect. Should it be dis-
covered early either change the feeder, or bring the bird
up by hand, at the same time manipulating the bill so as
to gradually restore it to its natural shape. After the
defect has become permanent, the only course to pur-
sue is to trim it occasionally to as near a natural shape
as possible, being careful in trimming not to cut into
the quick or fleshy portion of the bill. As this is not an
hereditary defect such birds, if of good stock and other-
wise of good quality, can be used as breeders.

PIP

This is a trouble with which pigeons are rarely afflict-
ed, but it is sometimes found among them. The bird,
it will be noticed, does not eat well, gives indications of
an uncomfortable condition of the tongue by opening
the mouth and moving the tongue uneasily. On ex-
amination the tongue will be found dry and hard on its
surface, and the end elongated and split into three or
four bone-like parts. The remedy is to clip this splin-
tered portion of the tongue off with a pair of sharp
scissors, not so high up as to make it bleed, but far
enough to remove the offending portion. One opera-
tion of this kind is usually enough, but it is well to
watch the patient, and if a recurrence of the trouble

128
 

BLACK-WING TURBIT

The number of breeders of Turbits is constantly on
the increase, and certainly so beautiful a little bird de-
serves numerous admirers. It should be as small as
possible to be strong, round, and cobby, with broad
chest; short legs and neck; tail and flights, carried
well off the ground; round head; large, dark, hazel
eyes; short and thick beak; prominent gullet, and long
frill, opening from the center to right and left; color,
white, excepting the shoulders which are black.

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occurs clip it again. Spongia, as advised for roup, is a
remedy for this ailment also.
SMALLPOX

This disease, while rarely affecting pigeons in this
country, is sometimes found among voung pigeons, and
consists of an eruption of small pimples or pustules
about the head and upper portion of the neck. It is con-
tagious, and when you find a young bird affected quar-
antine him at once. Unless giving promise of a fine speci-
men, I would advise sacrificing it at once. If worth
saving, remove immediately to a warm, dry room, touch
the spots or pimples with a solution of blue vitriol, and
give as a medicine arsenicum, six pellets in a cup of
water, renewing every day. Give this remedy two or
three days, and if no improvement is noticed try rhus
tox in same proportions.

SECOND DIVISION

 

DISEASES OF THE LUNGS AND THROAT

 

ASTHMA

This disease, as in fowls and the human family, is
indicated by difficult breathing, the mouth is opened,
and the bird frequently gasps for breath;. sometimes
there is a slight wheezing sound accompanying every
inhalation of air. As it is natural for pigeons to breathe
entirely through the nostrils this is an indication that the
nostrils are obstructed either through inflammation or
some foreign substance. Bathe the nostrils and roof of
the mouth with warm milk and water, and when dry,
rub both well with camphorated oil. Give also spongia
in its water as for roun.

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CONSUMPTION OR GOING LIGHT.

This is a disease that seems to arise from various
causes, and is difficult of diagnosis for the reason that
while the symptoms vary, the results are the same.
Sometimes it is caused by tubercles on the lungs, some-
times from a diseased condition of the liver, sometimes
from inflammationof the bowels and,again, from worms.
It often affects young birds three or four months old,
particularly the more delicate kinds; sometimes birds
whose eggs have not hatched, or whose young have died
before the soft feed was fed off, and often old birds
about molting time. With some there is a slight cough
and ravenous appetite and yet they do not continue to
grow and thrive. In such a case as this I should suspect
tubercles on the lungs or lung consumption. Should
there be copious watery discharges mixed with blood
and of such a nature as to cling to the feathers about the
vent, clogging and befouling them, I should suspect in-
flammation of the bowels or some trouble with the liver.
Should none of these symptoms appear and yet the pig-
eon be uneasy and continue to grow thin, I should sus-
pect worms. Should it occur about molting time, I ¢
should suspect a debilitated condition of the system
either from overbreeding or other causes. In the case
of consumption of the lungs I would suggest capsules
of cod liver oil, one every day, or Parrish’s Chemical
Food. This is a remedy used at one time largely by
Philadelphia fanciers, or the homeopathic remedy cal-
carea carbonica, six pellets dissolved in water. For
liver disease, Carter’s liver pills, one every two or three
days, or the hom. remedy, podophyllum. For diarrhoea
or dysentery from inflammation of the bowels a few
drops of paregoric in a small quantity of water or hom.
temedy arsenicum in proportions as previously de-

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

scribed for these remedies. If a pigeon is sick from
molting, a castor cil capsule will sometimes benefit it.
Parrish’s Chemical Food is always good, and Long’s
Atrophy Lozenges are highly recommended, also the
hom. remedy calcarea carbonica. At such times if the
oil-gland of the ailing birds is examined, it will be found
swollen and the oil congealed; if squeezed gently the
oil will ooze out in long worm-like strings of a yellow-
ish color, streaked with black. This gland should be
sponged with warm water and gentle means used to
get it to resume its natural functions. Removing the
entire tail will frequently effect a cure, and in all cases
of going light this is one of the first things I would do.
While this disease is not contagious I would remove the
bird to a warm, quiet place. If worms are suspected,
small pieces of garlic about the size of a Canada pea
given twice a day will prove a cure, or the hom. remedy,
santonine in six-pellet doses.

CANKER

_ This disease is undoubtedly of scrofulous origin, and
may be said to be hereditary, and consequently born
with the pigeon. Like consumption it descends from
parents to the young. For this reason old birds showing
a tendency to cankerous eruptions should not be used as
breeders. It is a loathsome, filthy disease, and I believe
in a measure contagious; therefore when it makes its
appearance in a loft, stringent measures should be taken
to stamp it out even to sacrificing if necessary the sub-
jects of its attack. It most frequently attacks the mouth
and throat, sometinies making its appearance first in
small deposits of a yellowish, cheesy matter, on the sides
of the bill, under the tongue, and in the back of the
throat around the opening of the windpipe. In Car-
192 us
 

SATINETTE

The Satinette was the first impotted of the ‘Eastern
Frills,” and is preferably a small, good, round-headed
bird, showing in profile an unbroken line from base
of skull to tip of short, stout, slightly-curving beak.
The wattle fine in texture and small; gullet, full; frill,
abundant, long feathered, and opening out weil from
left to right; the peak fine, sharp, and carried well up.
It is white-bodied, with shoulders of pinkish-brown,
laced with a combination of purple and brown; the
tail is dark, with clear white spot at the end of each
feather, showing when spread, a band of white across
the tail.
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

riers and Barbs it often affects the ear-passages, also the
eye- and beak-wattles. If taken at once it can be easily
checked, but if neglected even for a short time the whole
interior of the mouth becomes involved, when it becomes
a difficult, if not an impossible, task to cure it. Young
birds in the nest are frequent sufferers from it, and here
is where I would commence to eradicate it from the
loft by annihilating them at once. The cause of it is
attributed by some to filthy surroundings and unclean
water, but as I have known it to be of as frequent occur-
rence in lofts where everything was as clean as care
could make it, as where a filthy and neglected condition
prevailed, I am inclined to believe it arises more from
confinement, the use of nitrogenous foods, such as peas
and Indian corn, and a lack of green vegetable food.
_Pigeons at liberty are not as subject to its attacks as
those confined and highly fed, for the reason that they
have plenty of open-air exercise and can pick up what
green food is necessary, thus keeping the blood cool and
pure. Remedies recommended are numerous, but I have
never found anything better for outward application
than lemon-juice and sugar. Squeeze the juice of a
lemon into a teacup or wide-mouthed bottle; add to
this as much sugar as it will dissolve, so as to make a
thick syrup. Remove the canker carefully with a small
flattened piece of wood, being careful not to cause pro-
fuse bleeding. Then with a camel’s hair pencil paint
the sores with the lemon syrup frequently till the canker
is killed. A wash of borax and water is excellent for
swabbing the throat and mouth; a piece of sponge on a
stick will answer for a swab. As an internal remedy,
give hom. remedy, arsenicum.

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INFLAMMATION OF THE LUNGS.

This arises from a severe cold that settles on the
lungs. Its symptoms are restlessness, labored breath-
‘ing, and high fever. Rub the body under the wings
with camphorated oil; also give internally spongia or
aconitum.

: THIRD DIVISION

 

DISEASES OF THE DIGESTIVE ORGANS

 

CROP BOUND.

This trouble, for it can hardly be called a disease, is
caused by an obstruction of the passage between the
crop and the gizzard. It may be an excessively large
kernel of grain, or a large piece of gravel, or a grain
of corn may have become crossed and lodged. The
gizzard in its working is constantly calling for some-
thing to grind, creating what we know as an appetite,
and the sufferer is constantly picking up grain to satisfy
this demand, until in time the crop becomes so full that
it can contain no more. This, likewise, from moisture
begins to swell, and eventually, unless relieved, seems
ready to burst. In the meantime the poor bird, although
with a crop loaded to overflowing, grows thinner and
weaker and unless relieved, literally starves to death.
This trouble is chiefly confined to Pouters, it being a
rare thing to ever find other varieties afflicted in this
way. When first discovered, and before the bird be-
comes “gorged,” as it is termed, it can frequently be
relieved by washing out the crop. To do this, insert a
small funnel into the throat, letting it extend below the
mouth of the windpipe, then turn into this a cupful of

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blood-warm water. Remove the funnel and work the
crop with the hand, thus separating all the different
kernels within the crop. Then invert the bird, letting its
head hang down, and with the fingers gently work the
grain ‘out through the gullet; the water coming with it
makes this an easy matter, and in time the crop can be
entirely emptied. Care must be taken while doing this
that the bird does not strangle, and so it will be neces-
sary frequently to let the bird resume its normal position
and regain for a time its breath. By working in this
manner the crop can be entirely cleaned, also the obstacle
removed from the passage to the gizzard, and the pig-
eon in a few days be as well as ever. Sometimes a dose
of castor oil is given and the effect of this is to clear the
crop and obviate the necessity of washing it out. Old
fanciers, in treating this difficulty, used to place the bird
in a stocking, and hang it on a nail where it would be
quiet and could get nothing to eat, at the same time
working the crop with the fingers. This would often
effect a cure. But there are cases so far advanced as
to require the application of the knife as a last resort.
For this purpose take a sharp penknife, remove the
feathers at the upper part of the crop, cut through the
true skin and gently work that back until the crop is ex-
posed; then make an incision in the crop itself large
enough to let several grains of corn out at once. Then
introduce the funnel, turn in warm water, working the
crop as before mentioned, remove the funnel after the
mass has become soft, and gently work it out through
the opening. It will usually be found very offensive and
the grains swollen to twice their natural size, but in time
the whole mass can be removed and probably at the same
time the offending kernel. Wash the crop out thor-
oughly, then with a needle and silk thread, taking an

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over-and-under stitch, draw the edges of the crop to-
gether. After this is done, draw up the outer skin and
either sew this also, or secure it firmly with strips of
court-plaster. Keep the bird by itself, giving it a little
soaked bread, as well as its drinking-water, and in a few
days the wound in the crop will be healed and the bird
entirely recovered. By making the incision at the upper
portion of the crop there is:no danger of inflammation
setting in, as would be the case if the cut were made at
the lower portion where the food and water would be
likely to rest. Rubbing the wound every day with a
little vaseline aids it in healing.

FOUL CROP
This is caused by ‘indigeston and the food in the
crops becomes watery, sour and very offensive. I would
advise washing out the crop by way of the mouth and
warm water. After thoroughly cleansing the crop, give
a dose of a castor oil capsule and when this has done
its work dissolve six pellets of nux vomica in a cup of
water, letting the bird drink at will. Feed lightly for
a few days with seft food. When fully recovered grain
can be fed as usual.

DIARRHOEA

This disease in pigeons is usually termed scouring,
‘and is caused by chill, by foul water, and by eating un-
ripe or musty grain. Sometimes new grain will so
affect pigeons as to cause the floor of their loft or house
to be as wet as though sprinkled with water. When the
grain is supposed to be the cause of the trouble, the
sooner it is changed the better. Usually where this is
the cause the whole flock will be affected alike. In case
of chill or foul water it will probably show itself in an
individual member. If disease is traced to bad grain,

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change to old, sweet grain and give, for a short time,
arsenicum in their water. If from foul water give fresh,
clean water and a few doses of mercurius corrosivius.
If from cold give ipecachuana homeopathically.

CHOLERA

This is a disease not common among pigeons, al-
though in some forms of diarrhoea they drop off so sud-
denly as to suggest the belief that cholera was the cause.
If the bird shows loose, greenish discharges, appears
very weak and tottering, I should suspect cholera, and
administer at once arsenicum as recommended for
diarrhcea.

WORMS

This trouble is sometimes hard to distinguish from
diarrhoea, as the bird has a watery discharge and grows
thin, and the plumage has a staring, lustreless appear-
ance. It is pale faced and white about the eyes. Its
appetite seems variable and it is restless. For this give
small pieces of garlic about the size of a pea, a small
piece of gum aloes, or the hom. remedy, santonine.

LIVER COMPLAINT *

This is a disease difficult to detect although of quite
frequent occurrence. The bird grows thin, its plumage
is dull and staring and its discharges are loose and
sticky, adhering to the feathers of the vent and streaked
with reddish brown. The oil-gland will also be found
closed as previously described. When well advanced
the gait becomes feeble and tottering, and if neglected
the bird finally dies. A post mortem examination will
show the liver to be very pale in color, and very soft, in
fact rotten, small ulcers will also be found growing on
it. The cause is uncertain, but probably arises from
a scrofulous condition of the sufterer, the scrofula seat-

138
 

BLUETTE

The Bluette is of the “Oriental Frills,’ and its main
characteristics are the same. It is of a clear blue color
with white bars edged with black; dark blue tail with
white spots, which are also edged with black.

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ing itselt in the liver, instead of the joints and lungs,
If liver disease is suspected, treat with hom. remedy,
podophyllum, six pillules in water.

PROLAPSUS OR FALLEN GIZZARD

This is a trouble frequently found in pigeons, and
while called fallen gizzard is really a relaxation of the
muscles supporting the intestines, which allows them
to settle into the abdominal cavity; here they usually be-
come surrounded with a yellowish, cheesy matter,
which hardens as the time passes and becomes so firm
and prominent that it has given rise to the idea that the
gizzard has come down into the cavity, or “fallen” as
fanciers say. The cause is from natural weakness
caused probably by over-breeding. There is no remedy,
and as such a bird never recovers and is useless as a
breeder it might as well be killed when it is finally de-
termined that it has thjs trouble.

CONSTIPATION

This sometimes affects pigeons, especially those con-
fined and fed on highly stimulating grains and seeds.
It shows itself in restlessness and difficulty in its evacua-
tions. An occasional feed of green food of some kind
will prevent it, or feeding soaked bread will keep the
bowels open. Six pellets of nux vomica dissolved in a
cup of water will effect a cure.

FOURTH DIVISION

\

DISEASES OF THE SKIN

 

 

SCURF OR MANGE

This is a condition brought about by neglect, lack of
bathing facilities, close confinement, and a dirty condi-

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tion of the loft. The feathers are dull and staring, the
bird restless and uneasy. On examination the body will
be found covered with fine feathery scales even extend-
ing out on the shafts of the feathers. Removal to clean
quarters, a good, warm bath, and a regular daily bath
will generally cure the patient. Give hom. remedy cal-
carea carbonica.

MOLTING

This is not a disease but a natural process of chang-
ing their feathers which pigeons go through annually in
the fall of the year. When in a healthy, normal condi-
tion the change is so gradual that they are but little af-
fected by it. But sometimes it is slow and labored, and
the pigeon suffers accordingly, loses its appetite, and is
generally languid and inactive, and the shafts of the
feathers are dry, brittle, and hard. It is frequently of
benefit to pull both flights and tails; this sometimes
seems to change the whole condition of the pigeon, and
the molting goes on more naturally and rapidly. Oily
foods are good at such a time, such as flax-seed, sun-
flower-seed, and hemp-seed. A little each day will do
much good. If the process is slow and tardy, give hom.
remedy calcarea carbonica. If much fever, aconite. A
little iron tonic in the water is at such times a great aid
to regular molting, also plenty of good food to keep up
their strength; this combined with the bath and regular
exercise does more than medicine.

INFLAMMATION OF THE OIL-GLAND

This is a trouble usually attending some other dis-
eased conditions of the body, and has been previously
mentioned. The oil hardens in the gland at the root
of the tail and when examined the gland appears very
much distended and swollen. Apply warm water and

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gentle pressure until the hardened matter is worked
out ; do this two or three times each day until the gland
resumes its normal condition and the oil is secreted as
usual. Pulling out the entire tail-feathers, especially if
in the fall of the year, often effects a perfect cure. Use
internally, hepar sulphur, putting eight to ten pellets in
the drinking-cup with clean, fresh water, changing
water every other day until natural condition is restored.

FIFTH DIVISION

 

DISEASES OF THE Limsgs

 

CORNS

This is a name given by fanciers to a disease of a
scrofulous nature affecting the joints of wings and legs.
It first makes its appearance in an inflamed condition of
the joint affected. The bird will, if affected in the
wing, drop the wing slightly, seem uneasy, and peck
often at the joint. If in the joints of the leg, it will
limp and frequently draw the leg up. Noticing any
of these symptoms, catch the bird and examine it for
the trouble. The joint will be found much inflamed, and
sometimes hard and firm and again apparently filled
with a watery matter. If neglected the swelling will
enlarge until the skin breaks, and the cheesy scrofulous
matter that has been gradually collecting presses itself
out, and is covered with a dark-colored scab. When
it reaches this stage the pigeon better be killed and put
out of its misery, as it can not be cured, and while, if a
hen, could be bred from, it is in no way advisable to
breed from birds in such a diseased condition. If the
disease is still neglected, and the pigeon allowed to live

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the matter continues to collect until, if on the leg, the
whole thigh becomes involved, but no humane fancier
would allow it to progress thus far. The cause is un-
certain, some attributing it to blows, others to rheuma-
tism. I am inclined to think it arises from a strain or a
blow whereby an irritation is provoked, and the bad hu-
mors of the body induced to center at this point result-
ing, if neglected, in the scrofulous deposit before men-
tioned. If noticed in its early stages bathe with hot
water, wipe dry, and then rub with strong spirits of
camphor, or paint with iodine and acetic acid in equal
parts, this to be done once or twice each day until de-
cided no cure can be effected. Give internally the hom.
remedy thuja.
CRAMP

This is a trouble pigeons are not much affected with.
It is, no doubt, caused by cold and dampness, and affects
the limbs and feet, sometimes causing the cords to con-
tract so as to draw the toes of the feet tightly together
towards the sole of the foot. As a remedy, soak the feet
in warm water and rub well the legs and feet with any
good liniment. Give internally rhus tox.

SIXTH DIVISION

 

DISEASES OF THE EGG-ORGANS

EGG BOUND
This is a disease in which the egg in its passage’
through the oviduct, becomes clogged and interrupted
in its course. The bird sits on the nest continually, and
when taken in the hand and examined by pressing the
fingers against the abdomen the egg can be felt like a

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hard, round substance. If it still remains after attempts
have been 1nade to dislodge it, the scrofulous cheesy
matter so often mentioned in connection with pigeons,
will begin to collect until it becomes firmly fixed where
checked, and the bird becomes emaciated, helpless, and
gradually dies. Many times a trouble of this kind will
lead one to think of fallen gizzard, and naturally be
at first inclined to believe it to be this trouble. In this
affliction, however, the abdomen does not swell and be-
come distended as in fallen gizzard, and this is the prin-
cipal feature by which one can be distinguished from
the other. The cause of this trouble is, no doubt, want
of proper exercise, and an unnatural mode of living,
causing a lack of muscular force in the action of the
oviduct, also a feverish condition of same, resulting in
a diminished secretion of mucus, which usually rend-
ers the massage of the egg to the vent easy. The egz
in its passage downward, reaching a dry or feverish por-
tion of the oviduct, becomes checked in its course, and
the weakness of the muscles of the oviduct, not being
able to force it by this point, it remains immovably
fixed. The remedies usually applied are holding thie
abdomen and vent of the sufferer over steam, not hot
enough to burn, and oiling a feather with sweet oil and
introducing it into the vent. I would recommend if the
passage to the oviduct can be determined, a small in-
jection of warm sweet oil, the object being to supply
the lack of mucous secretion usually furnished by a bird
in robust condition. Sometimes a small quantity of
New Orleans molasses is given internally, this having
a loosening effect. “Hom. remedy gelsemium can be
given in water as before described.

144
 

BLACK-LACED BLONDINETTE

This bird is a descendant of the Satinette, and is like
it in markings of the tail and shoulders. It is of the
Turbit family and is altogether a very-much-thought-of
bird for show purposes, being attractive of plumage
and dainty in size and carriage.

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

BARREN NESS

It often happens that a pair of birds will mate, and
appear perfectly satisfied with one another, and yet the
hen never lay, although in apparent good condition and
going to nest and sitting regularly for a time. The
cause of this in a young hen, is too frequent laying,
without success in hatching, whereby the ovaries are
overtaxed and for a time they refuse to do their work.
Ini such a case giving the pair a pair of eggs, allowing
them to hatch and feed the. young, many times restores
the organs to their natural conditions, and the hen goes
on breeding as she ought. If an old hen, however,
while she and her mate will perform all the duties in
the care of the young devolving upon them, she never
comes back to a laying condition. Such a hen, unless
a fine exhibition specimen, should be killed, and not as
in some instances has been done, sold to an unsophis-
ticated fancier, who would look in vain for any progeny
from his purchase.

SEVENTH DIVISION

 

FRACTURES AND WOUNDS

Broken wings and limbs, while not common, some-
times are met with in pigeon breeding. If a bird is
found suffering from such an accident, one wants to
take into consideration whether it is worth wasting time
and experiment upon. If worth saving, examine and
see to what extent it is injured. If a good, clean break,
have some one assist you, first providing splints of
pasteboard and wrapping material; then unite the brok-
en portions as near as they originally were as possible,

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apply the splints each side and wrap with the bandage
quite firmly. After this is done have ready some _plaster-
‘of-paris and smear that all over the bandage, holding it
until it dries, this when set will keep the limb in place.
This can be kept on until it is probable that the bone has
united, which ought to be in the course of two weeks; it
can then be carefully removed, and if well done the
bird will be found but little the worse for the injury. If
the wing is broken it can be served in the same way, but
the wing should be so secured to the body that it can not
bear its own weight. This can be done by wrapping the
bandage around the body, first laying the broken, wing
close to the body and including that in the wrapping.
If the limb or wing is broken at the joint, there is little
need of trying to reset it, as, if healed, the wing or leg
would always be stiff, and a lame or stiff-winged pig-
eon is a blemish to any well-conducted loft.

BROKEN BEAKS

Pigeons’ beaks sometimes are broken by quarrelling
and accident. These can be repaired by properly ap-
plying short, thin splints on the top and sides. They
soon heal when splints can be removed, and if well done
there will be but little alteration in the shape of the beak.
Tt will be necessary to feed the sufferer for awhile by
hand, and it should be kept in a quiet place away from
companions. Give, in this case, as for broken bones,
one or two daily doses of aconitum, three pellets at a
dose. This will tend to allay fever if any arise.

TORN CROPS AND OTHER FLESH WOUNDS

It frequently happens with pigeons flying at large, es-
pecially Homing Pigeons, that they come home often
badly wounded by hawks and the murderous gun. As
svon as discovered, examine the wound, washing it care-

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fully with warm, soft water and a little carbolic soap.
When thoroughly cleansed, remove the feathers about
the wound, and if possible to do so, draw the edges to-
gether holding them in place by strips of adhesive plas-
ter. If the nature of the wound will not permit of this,
then dress with some healing ointment, bandaging if
possible, and keep the pigeon secluded from its mates.

INSECT PESTS

Pigeons are infested at times with a number of para-
sitic pests. They are the results, in a measure, of a
neglect of proper cleanliness in the loft, and a lack of
bathing facilities. Lofts frequently cleaned and white-
washed and birds well supplied with bathing-water are
seldom annoyed with lice or fleas. We may excuse the
novice whose loft becomes once infested with lice, or an
ignorance of these pests may lead to their getting the
upper hand, but after one experience there is no excuse
for a recurrence of the evil. The fancier who has once
had a personal visit from them and felt the torment of
their crawling up the back, between the shoulders and
in the hair at the back of the neck, will be very likely
to remember it, and ever after use every available means
to rid his premises of such an irritating plague. There
are five different varieties of these vermin. They are
known as lice, feather-lice, mites, fleas, and ticks.

LICE

Are usually the result of a neglected condition, and a
bird in a delicate and sickly condition will generally be
found to be more or less infested with them. To birds
in a healthy and robust condition and that have fre-
quent access to the bathing-dish they are comparatively
unknown, as they are lovers of filth, and only thrive
where cleanliness is a stranger. Birds with short bills

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like Barbs, Almond Tumblers, Owls, Turbits, and Ori-
ental Frills are more apt to suffer from their attacks
than long-billed birds. Should they make their appear-
ance among well-kept birds, they soon make it evident
by their restlessness and their constantly seeking for
the intruders among their feathers. The louse is about
the size of an ordinary pin’s-head, and is of a yellowish
gray color, is very active, and where few in number are
hard to detect, as they run rapidly from place to place.
Their favorite location, however, is about the base of
the neck, and among the feathers at the vent of the
pigeon. If their presence is suspected, here is the place
to look for them. A little camphorated oil appiied
around the vent and a plentiful dusting of Persian in-
sect-powder along the sides at the root of the tail and at
the base of the neck will relieve the infested bird. It
will also be well to examine these localities for “nits”
or eggs, and when found, pluck the feathers out and
burn them. An occasional future examination will be a
safeguard against their attacks. Should it be found
at any time that the old birds are being annoyed by
them, carefully examine the young squabs in the nest,
for they are liable to suffer more from their attacks than
the old ones. If found, apply the same treatment to
them as to the old, and never leave one of the pests
alive that can be hunted out. In applying the powder
and oil, it will be well to hold the sufferers over a white
cloth or paper, so that when the lice leave the pigeon
they can be destroyed, otherwise some may escape, only
to bred and become again a pest. A little naphtha in
place of the camphorated oil can be used; it evaporates
quickly but is death to insects.

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FEATHER-LICE

These are an entirely different insect from the louse
just described, being long and thin in form and of a
grayish color, the head and neck being slightly darker
than the body. As their name intimates, they inhabit
the feathers of the pigeon, and are supposed to be rather
a benefit than otherwise. As they are seldom seen ex-
cept during warm weather they are supposed to devour
the fine, fluffy material at the base of the lesser feathers,
and thus relieve the pigeon of its super-abundant coat
so kindly provided by Nature for its protection through
the colder months of the year. As the molting season
comes on, they disappear with the falling feathers, and
are seldom seen again until summer of next year. They
are not much noticed on well, strong pigeons, but on
sickly pigeons they show plainly, also when a pigeon
dies. The reason of this is probably, as the bodily
warmth of the pigeon is gone, they crawl to the outside
of the feathers for the purpose of seeking more con-
genial quarters. Their motions are very slow and as it
takes some time to change their location, they are plainly
seen. Ina neglected loft they will sometimes become so
plentiful as to be an annoyance to the pigeons, especially
among the crested and hooded varieties. If they seem
to be uncomfortable from this cause, a plentiful dusting
of Persian insect-powder will reduce them in numbers.

MITES

This insect is the worst annoyance in the way of a
pest that the pigeon keeper has to contend with. They
are about the size and color of a grain of maw or poppy-
seed. [he microscope shows them to be similar to a
small crab, and like that shell-fish, they travel sideways.
They multiply rapidly, and when they once get the up-

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per hand they fairly swarm. They select for their hid-
ing-places the cracks and crevices of the loft, in the
walls, about the perches, about the nesting-places, under
the nest-pans, and even in the nesting-material itself.
They are not much seen during the days, but at night
they sally out in hordes, making the life of the adult
and the squab miserable. They sometimes become such
an annoyance that pigeons having their liberty seek
other quarters. After a night’s incursion, if an examina-
tion be made of their haunts, they will be found clustered
together, probably for warmth, and red with the blood
of their victims. The young squabs suffer at times so
much as to retard their growth, and the old birds desert
both nests and young. They thrive like the feather-
louse, chiefly during hot weather, and this is the tire
to watch for them, and on the first indications of their
presence cut their career short. Make an examination
of loft early in the summer, and keep up the supervision
while the warm weather lasts. The first indications of
their presence will be a little line of bluish-gray dust,
seen on the edge of some joint or crack. A closer ex-
amination will reveal a colony of the little villains.. At
once take the kerosene-oil can and fill every crack and
crevice full of the oil. This will eradicate them as ef-
fectually as anything one can find, as this oil is death to
all insect life. Carefully examine the nests and nest-pans
and if any are found about them give them the same
dose. Frequent observations will free the loft entirely
from them until the season is past for them to annoy and
make life a burden.

FLEAS

Sometimes, though seldom, a loft will have a visita-
tion from fleas. They are much like the fleas that an-

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The Feather’s Praccical Pigeon Book

 

noy the dog and the cat, but smaller and of a shiny
black. They frequent the nests chiefly, and while they
suck the blood of the squab do not seem to annoy the old
birds. Persian inesct-powder makes short work of them.
If discovered, burn the nesting-material and sprinkle the
powder in the new material and about the nest or nest-
pan. Kerosene will be also found effectual.

TICKS

This is an insect not very common, but none the less
an annoyance when it makes an attack. They usually
fasten about the head of the bird, and are great blood-
suckers, frequently causing the death of the young
squabs. They are very quick in their motions, and may
be seen occasionally darting through the feathers of the
birds. They are about the size of a bed-bug, and I am
inclined to think have given rise to the idea that pigeons
draw these bugs to a house. But this tick I mention I
have never known to annoy the human family. Per-
sian insect-powder will clear them out.

There is another bug found at times very plentifully
about ill-kept pigeon-houses. It is about the size of a
small grain of buckwheat and of a dull brown color. It
is, as far as my observation goes, harmless, never troub-
ling the pigeons, and only desiring to be let alone. It
comes through the warm weather, and while to all ap-
pearances doing no harm, is repulsive and suggestive of
a lack of care.

* a ok

In this connection, while treating of vermin, I may
mention the four-legged vermin that occasionally visit
a pigeon loft; namely, rats and mice. These are capable
of causing great loss to the fancier, and need to be
guarded against as carefully as the insects. If a loft is

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NUN

The striking feature of the Nun is the great contrast
in color; the body and shoulders being pure white with
face, bib, and tail black. It is the size of an ordinary
pigeon, compact and graceful. Head and beak are like
a flying Tumbler but in proportion are hearvier. The
important point of this bird is the shell which rises
from the base of the skull extending on either side to
the level of the eyes, full feathered, and upright, ris-
ing perpendicularly at back of head. The flights are
black with nine or ten feathers each; the eye, pearl,
with the cere fine, small and dark colored.

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properly constructed they can find no entrance ; but once
they find a vulnerable spot they are sure to make an
entrance, and I have known rats in a single night to kill
as many as forty high-priced birds. Mice eat the eggs
and food and occasionally, though seldom, will attack
the squabs. A good preventive against such attacks is
to bring up a kitten in the loft, and when well grown
it will keep out all the rats and mice, and being reared
among the pigeons will never molest them and the pig-
eons in turn never seem afraid of the cat, although she
may walk all about the nest-pans and young birds.
Taken very small and kept always in the loft they seem
to enjoy the company of the pigeons, and when full
grown seem rather to prefer the loft to any other
place. I have seen properly-educated cats quietly sleep-
ing in a vacant nest, with the pigeons sporting all about
it as unconcerned as though there were nothing but pig-
eons in the room. J was forcibly reminded of the scrip-
tural prophecy of- how the lion and the lamb should lie
down together, and interested to note what training and
association would do.

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CHAPTER VIII

 

PicEons as Foop

As a delicate article of food, pigeons enter largely into
the dietary of the human family. Especially is this so in
the cities and larger towns. As many are aware, thou-
sands of pigeons are sacrificed at the traps every year
in testing the skill of the amateur sportsman. These
pigeons, as a rule, go to the handler at the traps, and are
by him gathered up and sent to market, where they are
eagerly sought by stewards of the clubs and hotels, by
buyers for restaurant use, and by caterers for the private
family. Here they are servéd up in shape of pies, stews,
broils, potted pigeon, and have even been known to do
duty as broiled quail and woodcock, when the customer
was not well up in the gastronomic arts.

The pigeons thus sacrificed while in the. main com-
posed chiefly of the common kind, frequently, however,
have a sprinkling of birds of more aristocratic blood,
that have unfortunately been born with blemishes so
marked as to render them unsatisfactory to the fan-
csier’s eye. Being strong and lively they have been
turned in with the common herd, on the principle that
the money they would bring was of more value to the
breeder than the satisfaction he would get from them
when served up at his own table. *

Consequently in all large lots we often find Antwerps,
Magpies, Owls, Archangels, Swallows, and other good
flying varieties that the experienced eye quickly detects,
but that answer the purpose of the marksman as well
as pigeons of a more plebeian origin, and that when

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placed in the market-show no trace of their bluer blood.
While full-grown pigeons find a ready market, especially
when game is scarce, it is the squab about four to five
weeks old that is most in demand and of which there is
rarely a glut. That these can be raised at a profit there
is no question, and how to do it is what we propose to
show.

A loft or breeding-room, such as I have described for
fancy pigeons will answer for squab raising also. The
same care should be given in the matter of cleanliness,
feeding, watering, bathing, and exercising, as with
fancy pigeons, as the object is to induce the breeding
birds to produce as many pairs in a season as possible,
for herein lies all the profit of squab raising. In carry-
ing out a systematic plan of breeding, the selection of
breeders is a very important item and one it takes a little
time to accomplish, for there are several puints to con-
sider in their selection. Throwing a lot of common
birds promiscuously together into the breeding-room,
while they will no doubt mate, breed, and produce
squabs, is not the correct way to begin a successful car-
eer aS a squab-raiser.

The first step I would advise after preparing the
necessary accommodations, would be to select large,
light-colored birds for breeders, as the squabs they will
produce will be light-colored and bring at least 50 per
cent more in market than squabs from small, dark-
colored birds. Pure white birds for breeders would be
the best, but it is nét always possible to get a number
of these together at first, but it should be the aim of the
squab-raiser to work towards this end, so that in time
his flock may be all white.

I have said light-colored birds; by that I mean those
in which white as a color predominates. By large birds

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I do not wish to be understood as meaning Carriers,
Pouters, or Runts, as they are, as a rule, poor breeders,
although if Runts could be relied upon, they would pro-
duce a squab that would be far and away above all other
squabs for table use; but by large birds I mean iarge-
sized common pigeons, or crosses between common pig-
eons and some of the large birds. Persons living near
large cities have opportunities for selections of such
birds that persons remote from large places do not
have, they being frequently found in the poultry and
bird-stores as well as markets of these places.

But to start a flock, select the largest light-colored
birds to be had in the country round about, then by in-
troducing White Carriers, White Duchesse, and heavy-
bodied White Pouters, a cross can be made that will
eventually give just the size and kind of birds most de-
sired for the purpose aimed at. Another step towards
perfecting such a flock is the selection of the best feed-
ers and most careful nurses among the lot, discarding
all of the poor and unreliable feeders. These are soon
learned and should be disposed of and their places sup-
plied by others until the required number of proper
quality is reached.

As I have said, it will take some time to accomplish
this, but while working towards this end the enterprise
can be made to pay its way, as some squabs will be
raised even by poor feeders. Such an outfit as this con-
nected with a poultry-farm, will add much to the income
and be in a direct line with poultry breeding.

As with successful egg-farming, constant attention is
required to see that the pigeons are living harmoniously
together, that each pair keeps to its own locality, is
feeding its young properly, and is regularly supplied
with proper food and clean water. A flock of beautiful

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white pigeons, although of no particular variety, is a
pretty sight about any home, and so the owner has not
only a source of income but a constant source of pleas-
aire in the pleasing addition they furnish to the home
‘surroundings.

Squabs are most in demand during January, Febru-
ary, and March, and owing to their scarcity bring then
the best prices of the vear, say from $3.50 to $4 per
«lozen for nice, large, fat and light-colored birds. The
time has been when they brought $7 and $8 per pair, but
that was long ago, when every one had “money to burn.”
The advantage of raising light-colored squabs as
against the darker ones can be’seen in the great differ-
ence they command in price. Good, fat squabs should
weigh from six to seven pounds to the dozen. In years
gone by there was no systematic attention given to rais-
ing squabs for the market; they were picked up a few
pairs here, and a few pairs there. Now there are those
who make a regular business of it, keeping from 1,500
t 2.000 birds for breeders.

These are usually divided into colonies and treated
much after the manner recommended in the first of this
article. Squabs are sent to market in packages of one-
half dozen each, undrawn or with their intestines un-
disturbed, usually packed in ice, and when held up for
examination are suggestive of a delicacy that having
once been tried is ever remembered. They are largely
used for invalids who need tempting, appetizing, and
delicate morsels, and that they fill the bill many young
mothers can testify who, while convalescing, have
found them to be the only food having any attraction for
their fastidious appetites. By squabs is meant the young
pigeon up to six or eiglit weeks old, nearly or quite
feathered. But young pigeons are tender and delicate

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food up to six months old. After this, when they be-
come mature and fitted for the duties of maternity, the
meat becomes firmer and dryer. Although flying about
and apparently of mature age, they may still utter the
call of the squab known as “squealing,” and at this time
may be separated from the general flock and put
through a course of fattening by which they are made
as fat and delicate as though just from the nest.

The French are adepts in this practice, as they are

also in the fattening of all poultry. The food generally,
given is millet, with a slight mixture of hemp-seed,
tares, and very small peas. These are allowed to soak
in water until swollen, when the expert takes a small
quantity in his mouth, takes the young pigeon in his
hand, inserting its bill into a corner of the mouth, and by
the assistance of the tongue inducing it to take the soft-
ened grain. It is soon taught to enjoy this plan of
feeding, and the crop is quickly filled.
- Pigeons treated in this manner soon become plump
and round and make most excellent eating. In place of
millet, hemp, etc., the variety of oatmeal known as pin-
head oatmeal, combined with coarsely ground cornmeal,
would make superior material for such feeding.

They should be kept confined and not allowed to fly,
and may be fed two or three times a day at regular in-
tervals, experience teaching what intervals are most de-
sirable. Persons desiring to pursue such a course of
feeding, and living near large markets, could, by fre-
quenting the wholesale departments during the summer
and early fall, find plenty of material to experiment
with, as every lot of pigeons sent to market at such times
contains more or less young birds, and most of them
could be greatly improved, in fact doubled in value, by
a systematic course of feeding. 2

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A little experience will teach one to select the ‘young
pigeons, even though they have stopped squealing. A
glance at the bill, the feet, or the plumage will soon de-
termine the age. No doubt any one located so as to be
able to collect these pigeons from the markets would
find it more profitable than the business of raising the
squabs from the egg. In fact, many of the pigeons fat-
tened as I recommend could not be told from the squab
just from the nest.

In this connection, it is interesting to note the ideas
that people of one hundred years ago entertained re-
garding the edible and medicinal properties of pigeons.
One writer says, “The flesh is not so easy of digestion as
that of chickens,” and another, ‘‘ That the eating of their
flesh is profitable against the plague, insomuch that they
who make it their constant or ordinary food are seldom
seized with pestilential distempers.” Others commend it
against the palsy or trembling, also say “It is of great
use and advantage to them that are dim-sighted, and
that the flesh of young pigeons is restorative and of
good use to such as are in consumption, and to recruit
the strength of such as are getting up or nearly recov-
ered from some great sickness. It is indeed savory and
good food, and not much inferior to the most esteemed.”

For outward application they say, “That the anus of
a live pigeon applied to the biting of a serpent, viper,
or rattle-snake, draws away the poison and cures the
sick, being renewed as often as the pigeon dies. Ap-
plied to the soles of the feet in a fever, it draws away the
fever and helps the megrims or headache. Cut up alive
and applied to the place pained, eases the pain and
draws the malignity if any be; for the vital spirit yet
remaining’in the hot flesh and blood do insinuate them-
selves through the pores of the skin, into the blood of

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the sick person, now dispirited and ready to stagnate,
enduring it with new life and vigor.”

This last is somewhat akin to the modern idea of tran:
fusion of blood, and may have been the source fron:
which this idea originated. Thus we see that long ago
the pigeon was esteemed for its practical qualities and
made more useful to mankind even than it is at present.
As this ancient manner of applying the pigeon for cura-
tive purposes has long since passed into disuse, we have
no way of proving the truth of these assertions except
by an actual test, and until the test is made must accept
these statements in good faith, believing the writers to
have been honest in their convictions,

 

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POINTS OF A PIGEON

1 Beak.

2 Wattle or Nostril.
3 Frontal.

4 Occiput.

5 Back Skull.

6 Throat.

7 Neck.

8 Tippet.

9 Eye Cere.

10 Cheek or Jaw.
11 Saddle.

12 Shoulder.

13 Sides.

14 Breast.

162

15 Keel.

16 Bars.

17 Rump.

18 Flights (primaries}
19 Tail.

20 Thigh.

21 Hock.
_ The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

TECHNICAL TERMS
ye

Arrow-PoInTED.—In the form of an arrow. Ex-
ample, the penciling or lacing of a Blondinette.

Bap or BaLDHEAD.—The white head of a colored
pigeon. Example, the Bald Tumbler.

Bearp.—A clearly defined V-shaped patch of white
feathers on the throat, directly under the lower mandible.
Example, the Long-faced Beard Tumbler.

Bars (wing).—The bands of black or other colors
across the lower part of the wing. Example, the Blue
Dragoon.

Bar (tail).—The colored band at extremity of tail.

Brs.—The colored feathering running in clearly de-
fined outline below the head, along the throat and upper
part of the breast. Example, the Nun.

BEETLE-BRow.—Overhanging eye-wattles, as seen in
soft-eyed Carriers.

Biaze.—A white mark on a colored pigeon (gener-
ally on the forehead). Example, the Blaze-face.

BisHoPeD.— A patch of white seathete at the butt
end of the wing.

Box-BeaK.—A beak both mandibles of which are
uniform in strength and shape and close fitting. Ex-
ample, the Carrier.

BuLi-EvE.—An eye the iris as well as the pupil of
which is very dark in color. Example, the White
Dragoon. em

Bo.tTinc-EYE.—An eye that is prominent, wild look-
ing, and staring. Example, a young Carrier.

BaARREL-HEADED.—An elongated skull, free from an-
gles. Example, the Show Homer.

Broken (in feather) —An indiscriminate mixture of

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variously colored feathers. Example, the Almond Tum-

bler.
Broken (in eye).—An erratic coloring of the iris.
Cap.—A colored covering at the top of the head above
the eye. Example, the Swallow.
Cere.—The skin-like substance around the eye. Ex-

ample, the Dragoon.

yore. SHELL CREST
pro SH

f

POINT CREST

        
 

 

MY
: wl

~~.
any
NY

Cuain.—An inverted growth of feathering on each
side of the neck. Example, the Jacobin.

Cuucx.—The V-shaped patch of white under the
lower mandible. Example, the Beard Tumbler.

CHEQUER.—Two distinct shades of one color. Ex-
ample, the Chequered Dragoon.

CrescEnT.—A half-moon shaped mark~ upon the
breast. Example, the Suabian.

Crest.—An inverted growth of feathers at the back of
the head. Example, the Turbit.

Crop.—The craw or stomach.

CLEAN-LEG.—Free from feathering below the hock.

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CLEAN-cuT.—Evenly defined.
Down-FacED.—Downward contortion of the beak.
Dew.ap.—(See Gullet.)

CarRIAGE.—The natural position of a pigeon.

Conpition.—Robust health and perfection of plum-
age.

EyE-wATTLE.—The fleshy excrescence around the eye
(chiefly applied to carriers and Barbs).

Fritt.—A fringe of feathers on the breast growing in
inverted position from the throat downwand. Exam-
ple, the Turbit.

FEATHER-LEGGED.—Feathered below the hocks. Ex-
ample, the Blondinette.

 

FLicHts (outer or primary).—The first ten feathers
of each wing.

Fiicuts (inner or secondary).—The remaining long
feathers of the wing.

FouL-THIGHED.—Colored feathers on white thighs.

-FROG-SHAPED.—Depressed in crown, but free from
angles and not flat.

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

Gay.—Showing too much white (as applied to the
crop markings of a Pouter, and the shoulder-mark-
ings of a Mottled Tumbler).

GirtH.—The waist of the Pouter.

GuLLet.—An abnormal development of loose skin
extending from the lower mandible to the top of the
neck. Example, the Owl.

Hacxe.—The lower feathers at the back of the neck.

HANDKERCHIEF Markinc.—A _ triangular - shaped
patch of white feathers on the back of a colored pigeon.
Example, the Mottled Tumbler.

 

Hoop.—The upper covering of the head. Example,
the Jacobin.

JEW-WATTLE.—The wattle on the lower mandible.

KereL.—The lower part of the breast.

LacInG oR PENcILING.—Clearly defined markings
round the outer edge of a feather. Example, the Blondi-
nette.

Lims.—The leg and thigh (as applied to the Pouter. )

MawnpiBLe.—A portion of the beak.

Mane.—The ridge of feathers at the back of the neck.
Example, the Jacobin.

Meaty.—Undecided, color, generally applied to
Silver-Dun Antwerps and Homers,

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The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book

Murrep.—A covering of feathers on the hocks, legs
and feet. Example, the Trumpeter. /

PEeaK.—Pointed feathers at the back of the head. Ex-
ample, the Turbit.

PINCH-EYED.—Irregularity of outline (as applied
to the eye-cere or eye-wattle). Example, the Dragoon.

PROFILE.—The side face.

Rose (head).—The feathering on the frontal of the
Trumpeter. —

Rose (breast ).—The rose-like feathering on the breast

of the Owl.
Rose (feather).—The shoulder-markings of the Pou-

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ter, Mottled Trumpeter, and Tumbler; the same term
is also applied to the radiating point of the hood, mane
and chain of the Jacobin.

Rosetre.—Feathering on the breast, in the form of a
rose. Example, the Owl.

SHELL.—The shell-shaped growth of feathers at the
back of the head. Example the Swallow.

Snaxy.—Serpentine in shape. Example, the head
and neck of the Magpie.

Snip.—A clearly-defined, elongated spot of white,
generally on the forehead. Example, the Snip (German
Toy).

167. ,
The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book |

SADDLE.—The upper portion of the back.

Srop.—An abrupt termination of the skull at the base
of the beak. Example, the Short-faced Tumbler.

SKuLt.—The upper portion of the head.

SuHop (as applied to the Fantail).—Deflecture of the
lower feathers of the tail.

SPANGLED.-A “broken” arrangement of feathering.

SptasH.—An_ indiscriminate mixture of several
colors. Example, the Splash Short-faced Tumbler.

Spot.—A colored mark on a white pigeon, generally
on the frontal or forehead.

Sori CoLor.—(See self-color.)

Squas.—A very young pigeon, unfeathered.

SQUEAKER.—A (feathered) young pigeon, just learn-
ing to feed.

Stockines.—The feathering on the thighs and legs.
Example, the Pouter.

SLOBBERED (as applied to the cut of a Baldhead Tum-
bler).—Indistinct and uneven.

SELF-CoLorED.—One color only.

SPINDLE-BEAKED.—A beak that is long and thin.

Turr.—An inverted growth of feathers behind the
wattle. Example, the Priest.

Toys.—Varieties of which color and markings are
the chief properties.

VeNT.—The passage from the body.

VetL.—Applied to the head-markings of the Nun.

WattLe (beak).—The fleshy excrescence on the beak.

WuHiskerS.—The feathers between the root of the
beak and the base of the eye.

Wuo r FEeatHER.— A self-colored pigeon.

168