State Gallege of Agree At Gornell University ornell University Library complete work on the pruning of fruit A COMPLETE WORK ON THE PRUNING OF FRUIT TREES. By JAS. F. MOODY, FRUIT INDUSTRIES COMMISSIONER, WESTERN AUSTRALIA. Price 3s. Gd. TERTH: BY AUTHORITY: FRED. WM. SIMPSON, GOVERNMENT PRINTER. 1912. JAS. F. MOODY, INDUSTRIES COMMISSIONER. FRUIT Late Manager Toomue Valley Orchards, Pakenham, Vic. Orchardist and Irrigationist, Kameruka Estate, Bega, N.S.W. Introductory INDE A Pruning Tools The Parts of the Tree Time for Pruning Remarks on Pruning to inside Buds in order to spread the Tree Objects of Pruning Pruning Pruning Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. the Apple Pear Apricot Plum and Prunes Summer Treatment Quince Cherry Almond Peach and the Nectarine Fig Olive Walnuts and Chestnuts Persimmon Gooseberry Orange and Mandarin Lemon Loquat Renovating old trees PAGE 87 87 91 93 106 106 107 108 110 112 fl | fl 3} fl HHEXROSESRREESREROEOSESSSSSSDS9H INTRODUCTORY. QHYROSRTARHRRERREREESSSS5OaS Al i i] 3) i] pAAbAAL pAb bAnbmaa AIA] (A) Sl al S) i] al 3) 5] fl 3) 4A oO THE HON. THE MINISTER FOR AGRICULTURE. In offering this work on pruning to the growers of Western Australia, I am giving them the benefit of my own practical experience extending over 20 years, and the principles laid down have been gained by close observation of the differ- ent varieties. That the system adopted has proved most successful in making trees bear heavy crops of fruit can be substantiated by those who have known me both in New South Wales and Victoria. During the past ten years I have not only carefully watched the results and improved on them, but have taken photos. showing the trees at different stages, and my plates now number some hundreds. Having gained my experience in different districts and parts of both New South Wales and Victoria it has taught me how necessary it is for the orchardist to always study local conditions, and in many ways I have had to change my system or modify it on moving into a new district where the climatic and soil conditions were totally different. In this work, I have as far as possible taken into consideration any such local conditions as my short residence in the Western State has permitted me to become acquainted with, and later on, when I know more about these local conditions, I may have to revise this work, but the general principles laid. down hold good all the world over, and the practical grower can use them while adopting any particular method he has proved suitable to his locality. I have freely illustrated this work, because being a practical man myself I know how quickly others can grasp ideas when put before them in an illustrated way, also beginners can more quickly follow the reading matter. I wish growers to fully recognise that to get the highest financial results from the methods of pruning I advocate, they must carefully avoid repeating the same mistakes that have been made in the Eastern States, for most failures in fruit growing can be laid to mistakes, neglect, carelessness, or ignorance on the growers’ part. They must also be prepared to practise intense culture, for trees cannot carry the heavy crops of the quality here illustrated, unless well manured and irrigated, when necessary. In practically all the most suitable parts of Western Australia for fruit growing, provision can be made for irrigating by storage dams as is done in several of the Victorian fruit districts. I would urge the following on the grower :— oes 99 i.’ Select the site and soil of the future plantation carefully. GE aay ii.” Clear the land well, getting out all roots and stumps (a source very often of serious trouble later), plough deeply or subsoil. “ac mi.” Drain wherever necessary. 6 iv.” Lay out the orchard well, so as to cultivate at all angles and save manual labour. “vy.” Choose your trees carefully, stock and variety suited to the district only being selected, and see that the trees are well grown and free from all diseases, and select the best commercial export varieties only for your ‘‘ main ” plantation. vi.’ INeep the tree strong and vigorous from the start, feeding it well. ‘vii.’ Cultivate deeply and frequently. * Will. Manure heavily when the trees bear heavily ; it is money well spent. cee ix.’ Never allow a tree to overbear, but let it carry all it can without distress and without losing quality or size. ““x~.° Make provision for irrigating whenever possible. “x9q.7 Don't plant a bigger area than you have capital to manage thoroughly, “xi? Keep your framework and leaders right through the tree’s existence. If these twelve rules are well observed, I do not think the grower will have cause to complain about the financial results from any plantation. My object all through has been to place the matter as clearly and simply as possible before the reader, and I trust my efforts will be appreciated. JAS. F. MOODY, Fruit Industries Commissioner. Department of Agriculture, Perth, Western Austraha, 1912. BIalalalalalo| re ae {T] UJ a Z Z © ts e Sh mz 6 v8) {T] {T] Y pba Pruning Tools. Beginners often require information as to the tools necessary for pruning. Figure I. shows two forms of pruning saws, these have a bow of steel and a thin steel blade with keen teeth. They are most suitable for cutting large or 7 TTT Fig. I. Pruning saws. small limbs. They can be adjusted to any angle and make a very clean, rapid cut. The blade can be inserted to cut either by drawing to the operator or by pushing Fig. Il. Pruning knife. from him, the former method being the best ; spare blades can be obtained. The pruning knife, Figure IJ., should always be on hand for trimming saw cuts. All 8 saw cuts must be trimmed smooth, otherwise the wound does not healover. Figure TLL. illustrates a Depdse secateurs, while Figure LV. illustrates two other makes of secateurs and a large two-handed secateurs, used principally in vine pruning, Fig. LG A pair of Depose secateurs. CTE Fig. IV. Pruning tools. when heavy stubs or old arms have to be removed. The pruning saw shown at the foot of Figure IV. is a Wingfield, which is much used, and by some operators preferred to the frame saws. Figure V. illustrates a long pruning shear mounted on a light pole about eight feet long. It is chiefly used in pruning hedges and or- i! WOO S 3 Ke WA wo nnd AMA ES 0) Fig. V. Pruning shear for hedges, ete. SVAN Vi Fig. VI. Orchard ladder. namental trees. All tools must be kept very sharp, well oiled and clean. Figure VI. shows a very suitable orchard ladder with only one leg behind, which can be- pushed down between limbs or into the centre of the tree without doing any damage. There are many brands of secateurs on the market, the Wiss, the Mexeur, and the- Rieser being among the best, while the Depése is a cheap and very satisfactory 10 tool. These secateurs can be*obtained in various sizes and spare parts are tor be obtained for them. The steel wire coil and the steel telescope are the best forms of springs, and spare ones should always be on hand. When using the secateurs the blunt lower jaw should never be allowed to come in contact with the bud, this blunt portion of the secateurs always leaves a slight bruise on the stem, and for this reason—whether the secateurs are held with the blade up or downwards the blade should always be next to the portion of the limb or part remaining on the tree, the blunt portion of the secateurs coming in contact with the portion of the tree removed. If this practice is always observed the bruise will be on the portion of the tree removed, leaving a clean cut behind. A strong, wide-mouthed pair of secateurs, with a good hook, will cut a limb over an inch in diameter if the operator pushes the limb to be cut away from the blade when using the secateurs. If this is done properly there is no necessity to work the secateurs up and down as is often done, damaging the bark so badly that the wound does not heal over readily. SSD The Parts of the Tree. Many growers find the terms used in describing pruning very confusing, 30 T have ineluded a few remarks on this subject. The Tap Root is the main centre root of the tree; this root should always be cut back when planting so as to promote lateral root growth and good bearing habits in the tree. The lateral roots are those thrown out laterally by the tree. The secondary roots are the branches from the lateral roots. The fibrous roots are the fine rootlets thrown off from the lateral and secondary roots. The root hairs are the minute hairs thrown off by the fibrous roots: these supply the nutriment to the tree in a soluble form. These fine hair rootlets penctrate in all directions between the soil particles and absorb the moisture through the cap cells at their extremities and transfer it to the tree above. where it is elaborated by the foliage in conjunction with the carbonic acid absorbed by the stomata or mouths of the leaves into the material used in building up the parts of the tree and fruit, the chlorophyll or green colouring matter in the foliage aiding in this assimilation process which can only take place in sunlight. therefore during the day time. . It is considered that the crude sap rises by osmotic or cell pressure chiefly through the sapwood, the water being evaporated through the foliage ; the nutriment required for the building up the parts of the tree, after being manufactured in the foliage. is distributed during the night to the different parts of the tree. Those substances not required or of a poisonous nature are either exuded on the outer covering of the tree or returned to the roots with the downward flow of sap, chiefly through the inner bark and exuded by the roots as humic or toxic substances. The trunk is the main stem of the tree. The main arms are the first main branches from the trunk or stem formed in the first pruning. The secondary arms are the branches or subdivisions thrown off the main arms. The leaders are the main branches off the subarms; in other words the eading shoots, which become the permanent Jeaders. AL The laterals are lateral erowths from the main arms, sub-arms, and leaders. Lateral spurs are spurs developed on the lateral growth. Spurs are short growths from the arms, leaders, or laterals, containing fruit buds. Ramified spurs.—A fruit spur which has increased and multiplied as the tree aged. Terminals refer to the extremities of the leaders or laterals. Terminal bud.—The bud at the extremity of a leader or lateral. Terminal shoot.—The shoot at the extremity of a leader or lateral. Buds.—The dormant flower, leaf or wood bud usually found at regular intervals along the wood growth and at the extremities. These are found at the base of the leaf. The buds are classed as:—wood-buds, those which will throw a shoot in the Spring ; a leaf bud, one which only produces leaves ; and a flower bud one which produces a flower or fruit. Node.—The node is a slight swelling where a leaf is produced during the growth of the shoot ; at each leaf a bud is produced, and in some plants. such as a vine, a division occurs in the growth. Internode is the space between two buds. The leaf forms the foliage of the plant or tree. Outer bark is the outer covering of the tree which has been hardened by the exuding of calciwn salts. This hard covering forms the protection to the tree. New bark is the ring of new bark found just under the outer bark through which the downward flow of sap mostly takes place. Cambium layer is the inner covering next to the sapwood. Sapwood is the younger wood covered by the cambium layer through which the upward flow of sap chiefly travels. Woody fibre is the old woody formation of the tree. Pith is the soft material usually found in a tube in the centre of the heartwood. HHH Time for Pruning. The winter pruning should be done during June, July, and August, and the early part of September, and should finish before the buds burst—July and August being the best months for this work. The early varieties of peaches, and those varieties which shed their buds, and also those apricots which show the same fault, should not be winter-pruned until the pink of the flower-bud shows, otherwise all the fruit may be cut off. No hard-and-fast rule can be laid down, for each variety acts differently, according to the season. For instance, even the Goldmine Nectarine this season (1912) in some districts threw its buds, ard yet this variety as a rule is a sure cropper. I would advise not pruning peaches until late in the season—about the end of August. The pruner, by giving the tree or the limb a vigorous shake, will then be able to tell whether the buds are sound ; if faulty, they will fall in a shower. i, Many varieties of young trees require both summer and winter pruning of top as well as laterals ; apricots, and some of the plums belong to this class. Other varieties of fruits require summer pruning or nipping of the laterals, the top growth being thinned out and the permanent leaders left intact. Summer pruning of young trees should be done early in the season, about November-— December, as this permits the new top growth to mature thoroughly before the fall. It is further necessary to summer-prune the lateral growth again, about March. Early peaches and apricots which throw their buds should have the lateral growth summer-pruned after the fruit has been harvested. Young pears should have the lateral growth treated twice during the summer —early and late. All varieties of bearing trees which require summer treatment of their lateral growth should be summer-pruned about the end of February or early in March. HEAD Remarks on Pruning to inside Buds in order to spread the T'ree. Some pruners are practising pruning to inside buds in order to spread trees. The top bud always takes the sap and makes the strongest shoot, and, if pruned close, will grow straight up. On the other hand, the second bud, which is on the outside, makes a weaker shoot at a wide angle, because the wood above prevents it from growing upright. Removing the first or inside shoot, and throwing the Pruning to inside buds. 13 leader into the wide but weak second shoot, will certainly cause the tree to spread ; but I am entirely opposed to the principle, for there is too much risk attached to its practice, as it is noticeable that in the case of young trees the second bud does not always shoot. Should the second bud fail to shoot, the grower is in a most unfortunate position ; he has ruined his tree for good by throwing the shoot inward. During this season, in two districts, I came across trees which, as the resuit of this practice, had been thrown inwards instead of outwards. Where an outside lateral happens on upright growers, by all means make use of it to form a fork or to widen the base by throwing the leaders into the lateral ; but I caution growers not to make a practice of pruning to inside buds with the ob- ject of widening the base of the tree. Get all the strength and growth possible into your main leaders, and this you can do with certainty only by obtaining the growth on the terminal bud left in the previous pruning of the leader. There is, besides, no necessity for the practice of pruning to an inside bud in order to spread the tree, for you can obtain the required results from the top outside bud if the shoot is pruned well above, although it will not throw so wide as the weaker lower shoot. When the leader is pruned close to the bud, the shoot goes straight up, perpen- dicular to its parent ; but if the leader is pruned well above the required bud, pruning just below the bud above it, the shoot cannot grow straight up, and is forced out at a wider angle, just as a lateral shoot grows ; the angle at which the top shoot grows being governed entirely by the strength of the shoot. The illustration shows limbs pruned well above the bud; the second bud has certainly thrown wider owing to its being of weaker growth. I trust, therefore, growers will consider this sure and safe method of directing growth in place of the risky one. I have always succeeded in spreading my base by pruning well above the bud. Let any grower pause and study the illustration, and he will at once recognise that it is impossible for the bud to grow at any but a wide angle with the strip of wood above the bud. In these illustrations the top shoots are particularly vigorous, being four feet long, and half-inch in diameter at the base of the new wood. The stub shown must, of course, be removed in the following winter. Nore.—If it is necessary to throw aleading shoot wide, whether outwards for an upright grower, or inwards for a wide grower, prune well above the bud, so as to leave abare stub at least one inch long. If requiring to grow the leading shoot straight up, perpendicular to its parent stem, prune close to the bud. The reason why a lateral grows at a wide angle to its parent stem is simply that the wood above prevents its growth in an upright direction. A stub of a quarter of an inch in length above the bud will throw the shoot only slightly out, but a stub one inch long will throw the shoot well out, the angle of its growth being governed by the strength of the shoot. HX Objects of Pruning. The objects of pruning are to regulate fruit-production both as to quality and quantity, and to extend the tree’s productiveness over long periods. | Nature, if left to herself, seeks merely to reproduce herself, and the tree, unless assisted by intelligent help, generally lacks quality in its production and gradu- ally goes back in regularity of bearing, eventually producing unpalatable and inferior fruit ; and the tree soon becomes a wreck. 14 Intelligent pruning and cultivation are practised with the object of improving on Nature and keeping her up to a high standard of perfection. No tree can be pruned by rule-of-thumb. , Locality, soil, and climatic conditions must be studied. A good pruner will study the requirements of the tree to be treated, together with local conditions. He must understand circulation of sap, balance of root and top, action of light ar. air, and the necessity for keeping a good, stout framework in order to meet the requirements of economically working and harvesting the crop, as well as spacing of the leaders to carry the laterals and give the tree free circulation of air and sunlight for the healthy maturing of both wood and fruit. The closest attention must be given to having the tree sufticiently open in the centre, and yet not too open ; the centre should be hollow, and no more. Many growers in this State have their trees far too open and without sufficient leaders. The tree, if a wide grower, can carry from 18 to 24 main leaders comfortably, whilst an upright grower can carry 15 or 18 main leaders. These leaders should form a double row right round the circumference of the tree, and should be placed with ample intervening spaces, so that sun and light will have free entry ; yet it must be borne in mind that too much sun must not be permitted to play on the bark or the fruit, as this would cause the fruit to scald and the tree to become bark- bound. The latter trouble is indicated by a hard or red appearance of the bark, and its effects are to interfere with the sap-flow, so that the spurs are not properly nourished and the wood-growth becomes poor and weak. In pruning, one should always consider how the tree will appear when in foliage, and one should give sufficient space only, according to variety, to clothe the tree amply with foliage, without sheltering the fruit too much (as this would prevent its colouring up well), yet at the same time not failing to protect both bark and fruit thoroughly from sun-scald. The foliage also has another and important function: the assimilation process. This is a very important duty, on the proper performance of which the entire growth and productiveness of the tree depend. The foliage absorbs from the air the carbonic acid needed for building up the parts of the tree and the fruit. This carbonic acid is converted by the leaves, in conjunction with the nutriment supplied by the roots, into starch, sugar, cellulose, fats, tissues, acid, all woody fibres, bark, spurs, buds, etc., necessary for the building-up of the tree and fruit ; the foliage acting as a veritable laboratory during the process. From the foregoing it will be recognised how very necessary it is to provide ample foliage and to keep that foliage healthy during the spring and summer months. When summer pruning is practised, care and judgment must be used not to remove too much foliage, otherwise serious harm will result to the tree and crop. It is very essential that the tree be kept thoroughly vigorous at all times. No matter what quantity of fruit it may be carrying, at least one foot to 18 inches of top growth on each of the leaders must be maintained to keep the tree healthy. This top growth not only ensures the sap being drawn to the extremities of the limbs, but maintains a healthy sap-flow throughout the tree; and this, again, ensures not only the thorough nourishment of all fruit, but the complete develop- ment and maturing of spur and bud formation for the following season’s fruit. Unless proper attention is given to maintaining the healthy sap-flow, the best results cannot be obtained. With scalded bark and no top-growth, a healthy flow of sap is not possible. The trees must be kept in a healthy growing state right through the summer. The practice of discontinuing the cultivation as soon as the fruit has matured is not a wise one, especially in a climate where no summer rains fall, for the tree 16 becomes semi-dormant’ if the nourishment fails ; and when the rains do come late in autumn, the tree is apt to start a second growth or come in flower out of season. Besides it is impossible to mature the spurs if moisture fails too early. It must be borne in mind that the tree has not only to mature its fruit, but to develop its spur growth and fruit-buds as well. Apart from this fact, the last action of a tree before going dormant in the late autumn is to store up in its tissues (.c., the cambium layer, or inner bark), and in the spurs and buds and roots, sufficient nutriment to start the tree off in the spring. To note this action of a tree is most important ; for not only does the following fruit-crop depend on the fruit-buds being developed up nice and plump, but the spring growth depends on the store of nutriment held in the tissues of the trees. A good orchardist can generally tell from the development of the buds what sort of a crop he is likely to have, and he manures accordingly. If he expects a heavy crop, he will fertilise heavily to meet the tree’s coming demands, never permitting the tree to become so exhausted as to be unable to mature spur and bud formation for the following season’s crop. It is essential, therefore, that deep and constant cultivation be maintained through the summer months, to supply the necessary moisture. If the moisture fails,no amount of fertiliser is of any value, for the tree cannot take up nourishment except in a soil-water soluble form, and cannot make use of it unless the foliage is sufficient and healthy. a a a Al 16 Pruning. When planting a young fruit-tree, of no matter what variety,' always remove the centre leader. Choose well-grown yearling trees, from a reliable nurseryman, and see that they are free from all disease. The main stem should be short—not more than 18 inches high. Select three well-placed arms starting from different portions of the main stem, at a wide angle if possible, and remove all others. Shorten the three arms back to three or four buds, pruning to an outside bud or to a bud which will throw the shoot in the required direction, the object being to form a wide, stout base of main arms to build the future tree upon ; these main arms jointing at different parts round the trunk give a very strong base. Fig. 1. Planting the tree. Figure 1 shows how the tree should be planted ; Figure 2 shows the correct depth to plant, and Figure 3 shows the correct way to prune the young tree. Upon these the sub-arms and leaders are built in the form of an inverted cone, with no centre leader. The tree must be kept well balanced on all sides. The centre hollow, with a double row of leaders evenly placed all round, must show no crowding anywhere. Figure 4 represents (‘‘a’”’ and ‘‘b’’) two young apples unpruned, and (“‘c”’ and ‘‘d”’) two young peaches unpruned. Figure 5 shows these same trees pruned. P 2 OS Esa Deke PERTHWA 1 9 Fig. 2. Correct depth to plant. 18 Fig. 3. Correct way to prune the young tree. iv (a) (b) (c) (a) Fig. 4. Showing (a) and (b), two young Apples, and (c) and (d), two young Peaches. Fig. 5. The same trees pruned, 20 All roots should be trimmed, but not cut short ; only the extremities should be cut where jagged by the spade in digging up. Cut out any bruised, broken, or damaged roots, and shorten in any long ones before planting. Figure 6 shows how a “ whip” should be pruned when planting. Should a tree have all its shoots bunched up together, then every shoot except the centre one should be removed and the young tree cut as in Figure 5, “b.”’ These trees can then be formed in the following winter. The following winter, which is considered the first pruning (the tree now being one year old from planting), the tree is again pruned hard, about 6in. to 9in. being left, and the arms being thrown as wide as possible. In wide-growing varieties obtain forks where possible, but do not fork upright growers until the second year’s pruning, otherwise the base of the tree is too cramped. Narrow-growing trees can often be spread by cutting out the leaders to an outside lateral and throwing the growth into the lateral. Figure 7 illustrates the first year’s pruning of a well-forked tree. | Fig. 6. Fig. 7. Pruning a whip. First year’s pruning of a young tree. In the second year’s pruning the trees are again pruned hard, about nine inches to one foot being left, and a well-placed fork being obtained on each of last year’s pruning, which will give from six to eight or more leaders, according to variety and growth of the tree. Remove all but a few laterals from the inside of the tree ; also thin out any excess of laterals on the outside of the limbs and slightly shorten back those left. In the third winter’s pruning, prune fairly hard, leaving up to 18 inches on each leader, and obtaining a well-placed fork on each, which will now give from 12 to 16 leaders. Practically all trees are treated in this manner for the first three years so as to obtain a strong open framework. Some varieties, such as the apricot and various plums and prunes, are improved by summer pruning ; but each of these will be treated under its own heading. 21 In the fourth pruning, forks are again left if sufficient leaders have not already been obtained. As a rule 15 to 18 are left on the pear and on all upright growers, and from 18 to 24 on wide-growing varieties are ample, and then no crowding results. Any crowding of the top of the tree means starvation and barrenness of the base and main arms, because sunlight and air must be given free circulation throughout the tree in order to keep the lower fruiting-wood strong, healthy, and productive. We now have the framework of our tree, and each variety of fruit must be treated and studied separately and pruned to suit its particular requirements. When once the requisite number of leaders has been obtained, no further forks or branches are permitted, unless to fill up a space caused by a broken limb and so forth, and the leaders must be kept intact so as to draw the sap direct to the extremities. Once the leaders are lost, the grower is soon in difficulties ; for he has lost, with them, control of the tree, and the extremities are converted into fruiting wood. After the third year we have to consider our future crops of fruit and throw the tree into bearing. This must be done gradually, as the young tree must not be exhausted by being made to bear heavy crops but should be gradually brought into full bearing as it approaches and reaches the age of eight or ten years, accord- ing to variety; the object being to maintain a strong, healthy, and vigorous low-set tree, capable of bearing regular and heavy crops of fruit from base upwards, on the framework or leaders established, without any breaking-down of the limbs or stunting of the tree, this framework being so well spaced as to allow plenty of room between each leader, and the centre of the tree being kept as well open as the variety and climatic conditions require, and all the main and secondary arms being at an angle and not upright to the trunk. The fruiting wood or spurs should be built up gradually each year on all varieties of trees. HgUagH The Apple. Having obtained the frame work of the tree, the laterals having been thinned and shortened each year are now allowed to go unpruned on those varieties which carry their fruits on the lateral growth. This checks their growth, and has the additional advantage of throwing all the strength of the tree into the main leaders. These laterals, if left unpruned, in some varieties in one year, in others in two years, develop fruit-buds along their full length. These laterals must then be short- ened back, and only permitted length enough to carry and mature only good quality fruit, as local conditions permit. In some strong-growing varieties it is necessary to allow the leaders also to go unshortened, but whenever this is done the leaders should be shortened back the following winter to strengthen them, otherwise they become too weak and willowy to carry future crops. This process should not be practised until the fourth or fifth year, according to the vigour and size of the tree, and only then if all the leaders required have already been obtained, and the process must be repeated until the tree is thrown into bearing habits by checking the wood growth and promoting fruiting spurs. By letting the leaders go in this manner every bud along the leader develops into a fruit-bud, but provided the tree is vigorous no hesitation need be made inshortening the leader back, for the terminal buds will burst and continue the leaders. This applies equally to 99 the pear and plum as to the apple. Jonathan leaders must never be allowed to go unshortened each winter pruning, not only because it is unnecessary with this variety, but, more important still, because it so weakens the leaders that it is diffi- cult to get strength into them again: they will bear fruit to the extremities and break down, or the tree becomes a dislocated wreck so far as shape and form is concerned. Such varieties as the Rome Beauty do not spur on the laterals if they are left unpruned, but only on the tips, therefore, none but the short laterals should be left unshortened. They make strong lateral growth after each winter pruning, but can be thrown into bearing by judicious summer pruning of the laterals. The leaders of apple trees should never be summer pruned, only the lateral growth. Other varieties are naturally prolific and form their spurs readily unaided, and the laterals can be short pruned during the winter as they spur readily under this treatment, but in all ‘* Natural Spurrers,” such as Dunn’s Seedling, Five Crown, Statesman, Cleopatra, Rokewood, and others of the same class, consideration must be given to the due protection of the bark of the tree from sunscald mentioned before and to allow sufficient foliage for the assimilation process. It is therefore very neces- sary to leave longer laterals at regular intervals up the leaders so as to provide the necessary foliage, for it must be remembered that these natural spurs are only thort pointed spurs until the tree ages, and as each carries a fruit or two with perhaps only two or three leaves close into the leader, very little foliage is provided either for shelter or for the assimilation process. A good, vigorous, healthy tree will bear in its fourth or fifth year, and only a little fruit should be permitted kefore this age is reached, or otherwise serious harm will result by stunting its growth, and the grower will pay dearly who tries to make a tree productive before it reaches an age when it may be productive without distress. The crop can be gradually increased each year until the tree is carrying up to its full capacity. After the fourth year the leaders are left longer (if not permitted to go unpruned for a season) in pruning so as to gradually decrease the wood growth and throw the vigour of the tree (which must be kept up) into fruit production, but the leaders must never be allowed to become too weak and willowy to carry their fruit, and no fruit must be permitted on the tops of the leaders until they are strong enough to carry the weight without breaking or becoming distorted. Once the tree has reached a suitable height and begins to bear good crops of fruit, the leaders should be hard pruned so as to maintain the top growth, because the maturing of the fruit wlll now check the excess of wood growth. The Jonathan.—This tree requires more skill in pruning than most varieties, but no apple repays proper handling better. It is very often necessary to prune the Jonathan to inside buds or to an upright lateral to prevent the tree from spread- ing too wide. The laterals (and leaders) should only be shortened to good stout buds, as the first two are invariably blind. Figures 8 and 9 show a well grown three- year old Jonathan, unpruned and pruned. It will be seen, although the tree is only three years old, that a number of leaders have already been obtained, there being 12 in the illustration, and a few more will be added during the fourth pruning, bringing the number up to about 18 or 24 in all, the number being dependent on the spread of the tree. It will be noticed how well spaced these leaders are, no crowding, ample space being left not only in the centre of the tree, but also between each leader, with plenty of room for the lateral growth so necessary for this variety to bear its fruit upon ; the long laterals have been shortened in, es- pecially those towards the tops of the leaders, while shorter ones of lighter wood have not been cut back. It is not advisable to form too many fruiting spurs on such a young tree, especially on the extremities of the leaders; these spurs are gradually built up each year, a greater number being left unpruned each winter. In this way the bearing capacity of the tree is not overtaxed but gradually built up from year to year; each season the spurs on the previous year’s wood being 23 formed so that no fruit is allowed on the tops of the leaders until they are strong enough to support the fruit. This is most necessary in the Jonathan because Fig. 8. Three-year Jonathan unpruned, RTE Fig. 9. Three-year-old) Jonathan pruned, the leaders do not obtain the necessary strength as quickly as other varieties. Those laterals left unpruned are shortened back when the fruit spurs are formed 24 each season, from four to eight buds being left. according to the number of spurs and their strength and the requirements of the tree. As soon as we have the required number of leaders they are not again forked or branched in pruning but kept intact right through, the extremities being kept clear of all lateral growth so as to ensure a clean get away of the shoot. This process is continued each year, the leaders kept strong and vigorous, and the laterals kept healthy, strong, and productive by shortening in after they form fruit-buds. The laterals must be shortened in the following year after being left unpruned, more especially the longer ones, not only because the tree will overbear, but each lateral willsoon become barren Fig. 10. Jonathan laterals. near its base in place of increasing and multiplying. Figure 10 shows, “A,” a Jonathan lateral which was allowed to go unpruned the previous winter. It will be noticed that the wood-buds along its full length have been converted into fruit spurs. This lateral should be shortened back where marked (a) to strengthen the spurs, otherwise the wood will become barren after bearing. ‘‘ B”’ illustrates how the laterals become barren if not shortened back. (a) shows three year-old wood quite barren owing to not having been shortened back ; this should have heen cut where marked at (b) ; (c) shows two-year old growth with developed spurs, and this if not cut back where marked (d) will also become barren ; (e) shows last year’s growth. Figure 11 shows the four-year old tree pruned, while Figure 12 shows a five-year old tree unpruned, and Figure 124 the same tree pruned. Figures 13 and 14 show the nine-year old Jonathan unpruned and pruned built up in this manner. It will be seen how prolific in fruiting wood the tree has become and how strong and healthy ; also how well balanced the tree is. This tree has 24 main leaders and yet there is no crowding, not only have we an open centre, but ample room is provided between the leaders for the carrying of the laterals and the free entry of sunlight and air. The tree is well clothed with fruiting wood from the base up without excess or crowding. This tree was pruned from the Fig. 11. Four-year old Jonathan pruned. ground without the aid of a ladder and bore the previous season six cases of first class export fruit. Figure 15 shows the tree in foliage ; some fruit is permitted towards the top but the leaders are carrying the fruit without difficulty. One of the chief aims of a good orchardist is to keep the spur growth round the bases of all trees healthy and productive, and this can only be done by properly nourishing the tree, by the free entry of air and sunlight, and by judicious pruning. Figure 16 shows the base of a 23-year old Jonathan clothed with fruit and making good lateral growth. Figure 17 shows a portion of a 15-year old Jonathan carrying 10 cases of fruit. ‘pounrd aaa} outes ayy, ‘VOL “SUT uRyJVUO LP TeaA-oAY CL SUL peuntdiyy ‘pountd unyjeuo( plo ‘PL SUT TVOA-OULN ‘pomnadun weyyedoer pro ‘el “StL ABoA-OUL Fig. 16. The base of an aged Jonathan. Fig. 15. Tke Jonathan tree in foliage. 36 Rome Beauty.—This is a somewhat difficult apple to bring into bearing and keep healthy and vigorous. In its young stages it is very vigorous and readily takes woolly aphis badly, while as it reaches its seventh or eighth year it is likely to stunt unless well fed and stimulated. Stable manure is the best fertiliser to apply, and under proper treatment the Rome Beauty is as productive as the Jonathan. It is inclined to be upright and close. The young tree must not be forked at its first pruning but at the second, cutting well above an outside bud or, wherever possible, to an outside lateral ; this opens the tree out. , Care is required in forming the tree and bringing it into bearing. The short laterals should not be touched but the longer ones should be both winter and summer Fig. 17. Portion of aged Jonathar. pruned. By judicious summer treatment of the laterals they are made to spur readily. The summer spurring should be done about the end of February or be- ginning of March. The Rome Beauty does not spur like the Jonathan when the laterals are left unshortened, but only bear fruit as a rule on the extremities. Figures 18 and 19 show a five-year old tree unpruned and pruned. It will be seen how the tree has been opened out by using the outside lateral growth for leaders. Care must be taken never to allow the tree to become stunted or lose vigour from any cause either of over-bearing or lack of nutriment or cultivation. Figure 20 shows a portion of an aged Rome Beauty in fruit. 30 ‘pountd Aqnvog ouoy xead-aaty ‘OL ST ‘pounidun Aynveg euloy read-aatT ‘ST “ST ETT CC We ee ers 31 Granny Smith.—A first class New South Wales seedling and a variety well worth growing for long storing or export. The tree bears on the lateral well and on short spurs and should be treated in a similar manner to the Jonathan. It is a strong grower and, after it reaches five years of age, if the growth is in excess, the leaders may be let go for a season, care being taken to bring them back one half the following winter. Figures 21 and 22 show a five-year old tree unpruned and pruned. Note.—Whenever the leaders of trees are allowed to go unpruned they should always be brought back one-third to one-half according to their strength and length the following winter ; also the leaders should be thinned out, only those required permanently being left unpruned, all, others being removed, otherwise the Fig. 20. Some limbs of an aged Rome Beauty. tree is too crowded, and not only the permanent leaders are weakened but” also the lateral and spur growth is not developed properly. Figures 58 and 59 illustrate how this should be done. Cleopatra.—This is a strong, hardy grower. It should be planted on the higher drier land owing to its liability to ‘ Bitter pit.” The tree is inclined to be upright and should be forced well open during the first few years, pruning so as to admit plenty of air and light. The Cleopatra is inclined to overbear and to bear very young, and often stunts from this cause. Devote the first four years to getting a good, roomy, strong tree by pruning fairly hard both top and lateral growch. The leaders can then be left longer each pruning until the growth lessens ; ‘pounad yg Aue) imet-ary ton +S 66 Slol Se aban 6 NOMS IANS ‘pounrdun yynog