\\ Sp Permian Kw \ a S % NER ER TO AC ™”RAS DORR \ — TS VX Ce WIA WAAR AY , , Air NY \ Cornell University Library OF THE Hew Work State College of Agriculture : fq. 6 te ao\in] le. 8101 ™ Home economics; HOME ECONOMICS ew and Enlarged Edition HOME ECONOMICS A PRACTICAL GUIDE IN EVERY BRANCH OF HOUSEKEEPING BY MARIA PARLOA FOUNDER OF THE ORIGINAL COOKING-SCHOOL IN BOSTON—AUTHOR OF “KITCHEN COMPANION,” ‘NEW COOK BOOK AND MARKET GUIDE,”’ ‘‘ APPLEDORE COOK BOOK,” '' YOUNG HOUSE- KEEPER,” ‘‘ FIRST PRINCIPLES OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT AND COOKERY,’’ ETC., ETC. * ILLUSTRATED NEW YORK THE CENTURY CO. 1910 Aare Copyright, 1898, 1906, By Tue Century Co. PREFACE “HOME economics,” “domestic science,” “domestic econ- omy,” and “household economy” are all terms which are applied to the same science (the management of the home). In Europe, where this subject has received much more at- tention than in this country, the term “domestic economy” is the one generally employed. Home economics covers a vast field, to which nearly all the arts and sciences contribute. Few women have the time to devote to investigation and experiment in all the lines that bear upon the making of the home. In these days of specializing, it would take a large library and much time to cull from the various sources the kinds of knowledge that bear directly upon the making and the management of the home. The aim of this book is to supply such knowledge in a clear, practical, and concise manner. There seems to be a need for a book that deals with the necessities of daily home life, that teaches the housekeeper the materials and forces with which she has to deal, and the way in which they should be treated. This book has been planned upon this basis. It treats of the conditions which make the soil under the house and in the immediate neighbor- hood healthful or unhealthful, the changes in water caused by proper and improper conditions, the sources and char- acteristics of fuels and oils, besides giving careful con- sideration to the material that enters into the construction and the furnishing of the home. Vv vi PREFACE The chapters on marketing and carving are planned in a novel way, showing by the skeleton the portion of the bone in each cut of meat. Then are given the position and struc- ture of the muscles of the animal, the changed position of the bones and muscles in the hind quarter when the animal is hung, until the final cutting into joints by the butcher, and the cutting into portions by the carver. Any one who will study these two chapters carefully cannot fail to get a clear and practical knowledge of these two important branches of home economics. The care of wood finish and of polished floors is becom- ing more and more a necessary part of the education of the housekeeper. Beautiful floors and finishes are being con- stantly ruined for lack of proper treatment. The polishing of floors opens a new avenue of employment for careful, in- telligent men. While there has been no attempt made toward giving receipts for cookery, the chapter on foods will be found to embody the principles underlying all good cookery. Every statement has been thoroughly tested by the author in the years that she has devoted to the study and experi- ments which have made this volume possible. MARIA PARLOA, PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION Through my magazine correspondence in the past eight years I have been asked for help in solving a great. many household problems. Out of the thousands of answers to these questions, I have selected over sixty which apply to problems that are liable to arise in most households. These recipes will add to the value of the book, and will, I am sure, be appreciated by housekeepers. MARIA PARLOA, CONTENTS PAGE PREFACE . j 3 » . . ‘ a @ . . a OY CHAPTER I SomE ESSENTIALS OF THE HoME ‘4 7 1 Selecting the house.—Size and style of the hows. —The skeleton and circulatory system of the house.—The situation and foundation of the house.—The foundation-walls.— A closet for preserves and similar supplies.—General plan of the house.—The kitchen and pantries.—Pantries.—Materials used in building.—The interior finish of the house.—The chimney and furnace-pipes.—The plumb- ing.—Country houses.— Drainage and earth-closets. CHAPTER II THE WATER-SUPPLY . P 27 Situation and depth of well or cori — Methods of sitbening ni purifying water.—Tests for impurities in water. CHAPTER III . FURNISHING ‘ . 385 The hall.—The dinner: —The Tiber —The Sivine rob The parlor.—The bedrooms.—The kitchen.—Kitchen utensils.—Tin- ware.—Ironware.— Granite-ware.— Woodenware.— Earthenware.— Stoneware. — Miscellaneous. — Ventilation. CHAPTER IV DAILY RouTINE oF HousEHOLD Work ; i . . 61 General directions for sweeping and dusting.—To clean windings _ How to wash windows.—Cleaning copper and brasses.—How to Vil viii CONTENTS PAGE clean painted woodwork.—Care of window-sashes.—Care of dining- room.—Care of tableware.—Care of kitchen and pantries.—Care of the floors.—Care of kitchen utensils.—Tinware.— Woodenware. —The tea-kettle.—Tea-pots and coffee-pots.—Care of the refrig- erator.—The sink.—To clean an iron sink.—Care of cellar.— Household refuse.—Care of the plumbing. CHAPTER V THE LAUNDRY . as : . . : : 5 3 : Soaking the clothes.— Washing the clothes.—Summary of the work. —To prepare bluing-water.—Flannels.—Colored flannels. —Sum- mary.—Blankets.—Colored cotton articles.—Washing with starch. —To make the starch.—Silk undergarments.— Washing with kero- sene.—Lace curtains.—Starching.—To make gum-arabic starch.— Stiffening with gelatin.—Boiled starch.—Raw starch.—Hanging clothes out to dry.—Folding clothes for ironing.—Preparing for ironing.—Folding the clothes after ironing.—A few words about the clothes-wringer.—The laundry.—How to dissolve soap.—How to clean irons. CHAPTER VI CARE oF LIGHTING APPLIANCES . ‘ - < ‘ Management of gas.—Oil-lamps.—Some facts in regard to pe- troleum. CHAPTER VII FUEL AND FIRES. 2 ‘ ‘ 3 P : : F é Kinds of fuel.—Care of the furnace fire.—The morning work.— The cold-air box.—Heating-stoves.—Care of the range.—Some points to remember in the treatment of range fires.—Grate fires.— Don’ts.—To remove clinkers. CHAPTER VIII TABLE SERVICE : é . . General arrangements of the table.—The breakfast-table.—The dinner-table.—The luncheon-table.—The tea-table-—Waiting on the table.—Ceremonious entertaining.—Some points on table eee duties of the waitress.—-Protecting the table from ot dishes. 98 126 133 148 CONTENTS ix CHAPTER IX PAGE MARKETING F - ‘ 3 «i ‘ : . 168 The muscular system. —Some piliarackertatios of the muscular flesh of animals.—The minor parts of the animal.—Game and poultry.— Care and purchase of general supplies. CHAPTER X THE ArT OF CARVING oe » ee owe ee 202 Some suggestions about carving.—General cenagts on serving fish. CHAPTER XI Foop . . « 222 Brief outline of the rrbceaen ‘of diswatfon: —Fruita. —Fats. Prine. ples underlying the cooking of albuminous substances.—Principles underlying the cooking of vegetable substances.—The manipulation of materials.—Flavors and odors.—Economy in food.—Growth and repair.—Heat and force.— Vegetables with little or no starch. CHAPTER XII Woops AND POLISHED FLOORS : - 262 Polished floors.—Hard-wood floors. —Waxed bork ~To dese and wax at the same time.—Summary.—Stained floors waxed.— General directions for oiling floors.—Summary.— Cleaning with petroleum.— Appliances used in polishing floors.—Piazza floors. CHAPTER XIII TREATMENT OF Woop FINISHES i . . 279 To restore color and finish to wood.—Summary. =e i make nak for wood finishing.—To clean and restore the polish on woods.—Sum- mary.—To clean the woodwork of furniture. CHAPTER XIV Oris: THEIR USE AND BEHAVIOR. 3 3 « . 288 Lubricating oils.— Cleaning oils.—Oils used as foods and rmiedieinee - Cotton-seed oi].—Castor-oil.—Cod-liver oil—Spontaneous combustion. x CONTENTS CHAPTER XV PAGE Stains . . « a 5 . . . . . . : Stains on fabrics.—Stains on wood. CHAPTER XVI MISCELLANEOUS MATTER . . . . 7 . en Some points on laying floor-coverings.—The finishing, filling, and staining of floors.—How to prepare the filler.—Staining with chem- icals.—The preparation and application of stains.—Summary.— Points on mixing stains.—Stains made from colors ground in oil.—Stains made from colors in powder.—To graduate the stains.—Things im- portant to remember.—Gluing furniture and other articles.—How to mend plaster casts and picture-frames.—To clean plaster casts.— To wax and stain casts.—Care of small marbles and alabaster.—To clean bronzes.—To polish the brass trimmings of furniture.—Some uses of lime-water.—Chloride of lime.—Liquid soda.—Javelle water. —Carbolic acid.—Solution of oxalic acid.—Furniture-cleaner and -pol- isher.—Encaustic No. 1.—Encaustic No. 2.— Wax for polishing furni- ture.— Materials for care of furniture and floors.—Fullers’ earth.—To clean with fullers’ earth.—To make scouring-balls.—To clean with scouring-balls.— How to put new linings in boots and shoes.—To clean combs and brushes.—To clean coat collars.—Aids in darning large holes.—How to revive and straighten whalebone.—To prevent stains showing through whitewash or paper.—To prevent the corners of rugs from curling.—How to heat inflammable substances.—Precau- tions to be taken in cleaning.—Frames for dress-waists and men’s clothing.—Convenient clothes-rack.—Steel wool and steel shavings. —Insects and vermin.—Cockroaches.—Thermometers in the kitchen. —The melting-point of some metals and alloys.—The melting-point of some fats and sugar.—Bacteriology.—Household accounts, and the division of the income. CHAPTER XVII SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER . ‘ 5 : . . . . INDEX. : 7 . ‘ ° % F a F < ‘ 300 312 353 389 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. PAGE 1 PLAN oF CoLD Room IN CELLAR . . . . . 7 . 2 PLAN oF KITCHEN, CHINA-CLOSET, AND PANTRIES . ‘ . : 3 PLAN OF CHINA-CLOSET AND PANTRY . ‘ ‘ : = s 4 PLAN oF COLD PANTRY ‘ * * . ‘ é < 5 PLAN oF CLOSETS FOR CLMANING-APPLIANCES, Wraps, ETC. . é 6 KITCHEN DRESSER ‘ A ‘ 4 7 . . a . 7 KitcHEN DRESSER . Fe . - . = . 3 é é 8 Sewer-Gas TRAPS . F = . 7 : 7 9 StovE SHOWING DIRECTION oF WAVES OF “Wear WHEN SMoKE- DAMPER IS OPENED . ; ‘ é 3 ‘ i ‘ 9a STOVE SHOWING DIRECTION OF WAVES OF Hear WHEN SMOKE- DAMPER IS CLOSED. : i . a . . 10 SKELETON oF Ox, SHOWING LOCATION OF THE Bowes 1h IN THE VA- rious Cuts oF MEAT 7 : : ‘ : ‘ 5 : 11 MuscuLar FIBER, SHOWING THE ARRANGEMENT IN BUNDLES . 7 12 MuscuLaR FIBER, PARTIALLY SEPARATED INTO FIBRILS . F . 13 MuscuLarR FIBER, CUT ACROSS THE GRAIN . é 5 z 14 MuscuLaR SysTEM OF AN OX, SHOWING THE Draenor IN WHICH THE MUSCLES RUN, AND WHERE THE DIFFERENT CUTS COME FROM 15 SHowinc CHANGED PosITION oF THIGH-BONE WHEN THE HIND QUAR- ‘ TER OF THE ANIMAL IS HUNG . P 5 ‘ . - . 16 SHOWING CHANGED PosITION OF MUSCLES WHEN HIND QUARTER IS HUNG 7 ‘ . . 7 . ‘i . . . s 17 Swe oF BEEF—INSIDE . é 2 ‘ 3 5 s 18 Sipe or BEEF—NeEw York Mrrtiop OF Currine : 5 ‘ é 19 SHowING METHOD oF CUTTING SIRLOIN STEAKS. : : 7 20 Hir-Bone Sreak . ‘ - zi 7 : 7 7 e . x1 10 13 15 16 16 17 18 24 142 . 148 174 175 175 175 117 179 179 181 182 184 184 xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FIG, PAGE 21 FLAT-BoNE STEAK. : ‘ : ‘ is 3 ‘ . . 185 22 ROUND-BONE STEAK . ‘ ‘ A : . . . 185 23 SHort or “DeLMONICO” STEAK . s ‘ - ‘ - 485 24 SIDE oF Mutton, SHOWING METHOD OF Curnne 3 < . 189 25 SHOWING METHOD OF CARVING SIRLOIN OR PORTERHOUSE Roasr . 206 26 SHOWING METHOD oF CARVING Roast Riss OF BEEF. * » 207 27 SHOWING METHOD oF CARVING ROUND OF BEEF . _ ‘ - 207 28 SHOWING MreTHop oF CaRVING LEG OF MUTTON . 3 . . 207 29 SHOWING METHOD OF CARVING SADDLE OF MUTTON * 3 . 209 30 SHowING METHOD oF CARVING FoRE QUARTER OF LAMB 3 . 210 31 SHOWING METHOD OF CARVING BREAST OF VEAL ., . & . 210 82 SHOWING METHOD OF CARVING A SHOULDER OF MUTTON s - 210 83 SHOWING METHOD oF CARVING THE UNDER PART OF THE SHOULDER 210 84 SHOWING PosITION OF SHOULDER-BONE . ‘ A 5 é - 211 35 SHOWING PosITION OF MUSCLES IN SHOULDER : 3 . . 211 36 SHOWING METHOD oF CARVING A Ham . : is 7 3 . 212 37 SHOWING METHOD OF CARVING A TONGUE . ¢ 3 ‘ . 212 38 SHOWING METHOD OF CARVING HAUNCH OF VENISON . : . 218 39 SHOWING METHOD oF CaRVING Roast Pia. ‘ 2 , . 213 40 SHowinc Position oF DIvipED Roast Pic ON PLATTER . : . 214 41 SHowinc METHOD OF CARVING TURKEY . ‘ é : - . 214 42 SHowinc Metuop or Carvine Roast Duck . . ° 3 - 218 43 SHOWING A SECOND METHOD OF CARVING Roast Duck . ‘ . 219 44 SHowING METHOD oF CARVING SMALL FIsH . ‘ 5 - 220 45 SHowinc Meruop or Carvinc Cop’s HEAD AND SHOULDER . . 220 46 SHowInc METHOD OF CARVING SALMON, ETC. . Fi ‘ - - 220 47 SHOWING METHOD OF CARVING FLATFISH ‘ . 220 48 SHOWING HOW THE ANNUAL LAYERS ARE Savane INA hide OF Woop. . : 3 : . 265 49 SHOWING RIFT AND Shans IN A PINE Bout . 2 3 5 . 266 50 SHOWING THE MetHop oF CuTTING A Loc. - ‘. zs - 266 51 SHOWING MANNER OF CUTTING CARPET FOR REGISTER . . - 314 52 SHOWING CONVENIENT CLOTHES-RACK . . . 2, - 340 HOME ECONOMICS HOME ECONOMICS + CHAPTER I SOME ESSENTIALS OF THE HOME Selecting the house. Size and style of the house. The skeleton and circu- latory system of the house. The situation and foundation of the house. The foundation-walls. A closet for preserves and similar supplies. Gen- eral plan of the house. The kitchen and pantries. Pantries. Materials used in building. The interior finish of the house. The chimney and fur- nace-pipes. The plumbing. Country houses—drainage and earth-closets. HE house does not make the home, but it has a great influence on the health and character of the inmates. When one lives in a rented house it is not possible to control all the conditions, as one can when building a house; but certainly one should be careful to select a home in a neighborhood where the drainage and water are good, and the people are of a class agreeable to know. If one has chil- dren, it is important that the home be near good schoals. SELECTING THE HOUSE When hiring a house, the would-be tenant should examine it carefully before signing a lease. Examine 1. Examine the outside—walls, foundations, ne underpinning of piazzas, and chimneys, leaders beforesign- and water-pipes, blinds and fastenings. ing lease. 2. Examine the cellar—floors, walls, and woodwork. Are they damp or dry? Is there any odor? Are the foundation- 1 2 HOME ECONOMICS walls and the floors in good condition? Is it well lighted? Are the bins for fuel in a convenient place, and are they ample? Is the furnace in good condition? Are the stairs secure and well lighted? 3. Examine the plumbing. What is the condition of pipes and faucets? Are the flushing appliances wholly separated from the general-supply tank? Is the plumbing properly trapped? Is there any odor from it? 4, Examine the walls to see that there are no breaks in the plaster or paper. Remove drawers to see if the space back of them is plastered; if not, stipulate that this shall be done. Look at the woodwork, floors, and window-casings, looking carefully at locks and catches to see that they are in good condition. Be sure that the house has such an exposure that you get the sun. Better have fewer conve- niences with a sunny house than take a house where you get little or no sun, even though with the latter you should get finer finish and more conveniences. er Being satisfied with the general condition of lease the house, the next care is the lease. In this is satisfac- should be stated the period for which the lease iene runs, the rent to be paid, the condition in which the house comes into your hands, whether land- lord or tenant makes the repairs, and, if the tenant makes any, what they are to be. The water-tax is in some places paid by the tenant, and in other localities by the landlord; have this stated in the lease. : Before having the gas turned on, have the meter Examine 2 meter ©Xamined, that you may not have to pay for gas betire eas that your predecessor has consumed. = a : If all these things are strictly attended to at the proper time, they may save you a world of an- noyance in the future. For the benefit of those who may build their own homes a few suggestions are given. There is no intention of hay- SOME ESSENTIALS OF THE HOME 3 ing these suggestions take the place of an architect; but it is hoped that they will be a help to the would-be builder, in seeing more clearly than he otherwise would what are the essential and what the secondary considerations in the foun- dation and structure of a house. SIZE AND STYLE OF THE HOUSE In planning a building, its special uses must be considered. The house intended for a home should be made as conve- nient, sanitary, and attractive as possible. The . style of the house depends upon the location. The of Teenie house built in the city or suburbs would, of course, upon style be quite different from that built in the open coun- ene try. The amount of money one is able to devote to the building of the home must largely decide questions of size, architecture, etc. The simpler the style of architecture, if the lines are good, the more pleasing the effect will be. Sleeping-rooms should never be planned on the first floor. Even in the smallest and cheapest houses there should invariably be a chamber, or open space, between the roof and the story below it. Rooms with no intermediate space between them and the roof are apt to be very much like ovens in the hot weather of summer. Small houses built with low, broken roof-lines are pictur- esque, but the sleeping-rooms are not likely to be comfortable. Roofs built in such a style, besides being more expensive at the start, are more apt to leak than the plainer ones. A house built with thick walls will be cool in summer and warm in winter. aimee Every human being is entitled to some space _ walls. where he can have absolute privacy for a few hours each day. Houses should be planned to give each person a separate sleeping-room. It is better to have fewer parlors and more bedrooms. 4 HOME ECONOMICS a The finish of the walls, ceilings, floors, and all lame woodwork in the house should be as simple as woodwork. possible; then there will be fewer places for dust to lodge and less chance for disease-germs to de- velop, the expense of building will be lessened, and the work of the housekeeper simplified. THE SKELETON AND CIRCULATORY SYSTEM OF THE HOUSE A modern house might be likened to an animal organism, the framework being the skeleton, and the plumbing, flues, heating-pipes, etc., being the circulatory system. If this part of the house is carefully outlined before any work is done, it will save much time, labor, and expense in om the construction of the building. What is of tanceofout- Still greater consequence, every pipe, flue, and _lining wire will be placed in the right position and will ae be surrounded and supported by the proper ma- terial. There will be no tearing out of masonry here, or cutting of floors and walls there—a process of remedying mistakes that often means that heating-pipes are placed in too close contact to woodwork, and that the spaces around plumbing are not properly finished. When there is a clear mental picture of the completed house, it will be possible to dissect it and leave bare the skeleton and circulatory system. Two sets of plans should then be made, one for the framework, piping, and wiring, and the other for the completed building. Having decided upon the whole amount of Compara- tive cost of Money to be expended upon the house, allow a foundation, generous portion for the foundation, frame, chim- pier: neys, plumbing, heating, and ventilating. Do this even if the finish must be very plain in conse- quence. No beauty of finish will compensate for a poor foundation, shaky frame, and unsanitary plumbing and heat- ing arrangements. SUMK KSSENTIALS OF THE HOME 5 Make the skeleton plan somewhat in this style: Materia). Depth below the ground. Height above the ground. Breadth. Openings for windows, doors, etc. Ventilating-pipes, cold-air box, etc. Bottom, subsoil, drain, kind of floor. Connections with gas-pipes. “ water-pipes. sewer-pipes. Foundation-walls 6c “cs Cold room. Cellar Fuel-bins. Furnace. Closet for preserves, etc. Laundry, water-closet (if there is one). Foundation for chimneys. Chimneys— openings. Position for pipes from furnace or other heating appliances. Position for water-pipes. = ‘ waste- or soil-pipes. First floor “ “ ventilators. fs “ bell-wires. " ““ windows. e “* doors. “ “" stairs. - “ closets. Follow this plan for the other floors. THE SITUATION AND FOUNDATION OF THE HOUSE When deciding to build a house, the first consideration should be its situation with respect to the influence on the health of the family. 6 HOME ECONOMICS The second consideration may be the character of the neighborhood, and convenience to business and other inter- ests and pleasures. Light, sunshine, pure air, and dryness are the most im- portant factors in maintaining the healthful condition of the house, and they should be supplied in abundance. Dampness, coming from the soil under or sur- neuer rounding the house, is a source of danger, giving from soil, rise to consumption, rheumatism, malaria, and kin- dred maladies. The nature of the soil on which a house is built is a most important question. The purest soil consists almost wholly of mineral matter intermixed with air and water. ies Vegetable matter and animal matter are fre- ror ort quently mingled with the soil. Warmth and mois- cause for- ture produce decomposition in animal and vege- spa ni table substances, and during the process of de- gases. composition noxious gases are given off. These gases circulate through the porous earth, and when warmed rise, and, mingling with the air, are taken into the system with every breath we draw. These poisonous gases are diluted with pure air, and therefore work so slowly in the system that we do not realize the damage that is being done until illness develops. Even then we are ready to attribute the cause to anything rather than to the dampness and poisonous gases that come from cellars, drains, cesspools, swampy land, and decaying animal and vegetable substances in and about our habitations. If the earth under the house is damp and filled with noxious gases, they will naturally rise and permeate the ; whole house, floors, doors, and walls being no renee protection against them. . All cellars built on clay soil should be drained. The best method of doing this is to dig a trench, slanted slightly, in which earthen pipes, properly joined, should be SOME ESSENTIALS OF THE HOME 7 laid. These pipes must be covered with at least two feet of clay, well packed. The floor of the cellar should be constructed with the utmost care. No matter what the soil under the floor may be, there is always danger from the gases which will circulate through it. The covering of the = A floor should be of some substance that will effectu- ally obstruct the passage of the gases rising from the subsoil. Many of the best authorities on sanitary questions are of the opinion that a thick bed of clay, well packed, is the very best material for a cellar floor. The one objection to this is that the clay, adhering to the shoes of every one who walks over it, is likely to be carried into other parts of the |, house. For this reason it is well to have the clay floor covered with a layer of cement. With the subdrain and the clay floor under the cement, the cellar should be dry and sweet, and, as a consequence, the whole house will be in a good sanitary condition. THE FOUNDATION-WALLS Next in importance to the soil on which the house is built, and the drainage, come the foundation-walls of the house. They should be so built that there will be no danger of settling because of the instability of the ground. The foundation itself must be constructed in such a manner that there may be no possibility of dampness being drawn into the walls. The subdrain already described will ee take away the greater part of the moisture from thefounde- the soil. tion for "A deep, broad trench should be dug for the hat cellar walls. The bottom of this should be packed with a thick bed of clay, as was suggested in making the cellar floor. Over this should be put a layer of coarse broken stone, the spaces between the fragments being filled with 8 HOME ECONOMICS crushed stone. The whole surface should be made even, and finally covered with mortar and cement. This foundation will give a solid support for the walls of the cellar. All cellar walls should be thick. This is essential for the proper support of the house, and, in addition, keeps out heat in summer and frost in winter. In building the cellar walls, every precaution should be taken to make them im- pervious to moisture. Lightin The height of the walls above the ground is and venti: important. They should extend a sufficient dis- tation of tance above ground to admit of windows at least ‘two and a half feet high. This will insure the thorough lighting and ventilation of the cellar, and the raising of the first floor at least three feet from the ground. (NotE.—In some parts of the country, as in a number of the Southern States, for instance, the land is so low that cellars are out of the question. In such cases the founda- tion-timbers of the house rest upon brick or stone piers. The supports are far enough apart to allow thorough venti- lation under the house.) There should be cellar windows on all sides of : Rees ig the house, if the house is detached. If it is ina possible. block, of course these windows are limited to two sides only. Piazzas should not be placed in such a position as to exclude all sun from the cellar. The more smoothly and completely the walls and ceilings of the cellar are finished, the easier they will be to keep clean. The ceilings should be lathed and plastered. ee The uses to which the cellar is put depend upon cellar, the locality in which one lives and the manner of living. In town houses the fuel is usually kept here. In many country houses all the fuel, except the fur- nace coal, is kept in sheds on the ground floor. When the fuel is kept in the cellar, it should be stored in- bins placed as near as possible to the point of consump- SOME ESSENTIALS OF THE HOME 9 tion. For example, the furnace coal should be as near as possible to the furnace, and the range and grate coal near the stairs. Bins should be large enough to con- tain the full yearly supply of coal, and they should Placing be dry and well lighted. : fa Every cellar in which there is a furnace should have a cold room partitioned off from the main room. A good plan for the cold room is as follows: Take one corner of the cellar in which there is a window (two windows would be still better); a northeast or northwest corner is most desirable for this room. Inclose a square with walls of masonry, leaving a gen- erous opening for the door and a small space for a window which may be opened and closed at will. Divide this room into two parts, using well-joined boards or masonry for the wall, and again leaving generous space for a door. In any case, have strong supports of some kind on which broad slate shelves may rest. If the walls are of masonry, narrow ledges of stone or brick may be arranged to project from them. If wood has been used, broad, smooth, wooden cleats may be fastened to the walls. In the inner room a strong piece of joisting should be fastened firmly across the room and about two feet from the ceiling. Several large meat-hooks may be driven into this joist, on which may be hung joints of meat, hams, poultry, etc. This inner room may be used for storing meats, fish, fruits, vegetables, and all foods that have an odor. In the outer cold room milk, butter, and inodorous foods may be kept. These cold rooms should be placed as near as possible to the cellar stairs; if the whole length of the cellar must be traversed to get to them, they will not be used as freely as they should. The windows of these rooms should be supplied with screens of thin cheese-cloth to keep out all particles of dust; these would be in addition to the coarse- and fine-wire The cold room, 10 HOME ECONOMICS screens with which all the cellar windows should be pro- tected against thieves, flies, and small animals. £ Each room should have, besides the win- dows, a small opening through the outer wall, screened with fine wire, and covered with fine cheese-cloth. This will insure ventilation in cold weather when the win- Fig. 1. A, first room; B, inner room; C, door into cellar; D, door dows are closed. The connecting the two rooms; S, S, S, windows; E, joist with meat-hooks; F, table; G, shelves. doors of both rooms should be wide enough to admit a large barrel with ease. A CLOSET FOR PRESERVES AND SIMILAR SUPPLIES Another useful contrivance in the furnace-heated house is a closet for storing preserves and other articles that should not be kept in a hot cellar, nor yet in a room where there is danger of freezing. This closet may be built of wood and placed in any part of the cellar. It should be well made, and fitted with broad, smooth shelves that may be cleaned with ease. GENERAL PLAN OF THE HOUSE A skeleton somewhat like the following one will save changes, expense, and annoyance: 1. Cost. se - 2. Area of first floor. needed i 3. Rooms and closets on first floor. the house. 4, Rooms and closets on second floor. 5. Number of attic rooms, if any, and their ar- rangement and finish. SOME ESSENTIALS OF THE HOME 11 . Amount of plumbing, and its location. . Number of chimneys, and their location. . Number of open fireplaces. 9. Plan for stairs. (They should be broad and easy, and the back stairs should be free from turns.) 10. Arrangement of the rooms on all the floors. (This should be planned so that those used most shall have the best exposure to the sun. Halls should be arranged so that they may not be simply passageways, but healthful and cheerful meeting-places.) 11. Location of windows, doors, and closets. (These should be planned, after the location of the rooms is fixed, so that they may give the greatest amount of light, sunshine, and air.) ae Doors and closets should be so placed that they closets. will break up the wall-space as little as possible. Ample space should be allowed in bedrooms for bed, dressing-case, and large wash-stand—for it is to be hoped that in our sanitary house there will be no set basins in the sleeping-rooms. Plan to have all the rooms and the hall on the lower floor connect. The library should be well lighted and have ample wall- space for bookcases. It is a good arrangement : to have a window on one side of the room above jv Freie the low bookcases, the greatest length of this window extending horizontally. The glass should be of a soft, warm color. The light coming through glass tinted a deep yellow is almost like sunlight, very much ona Rooms, Corner softened. closet and The dining-room should be one of the most sideboard cheerful rooms in the house. In building, the ee cost of putting in corner closets and a simple sideboard will not be great, if one is satisfied with plain, substantial work. The arrangement of bits of china and 12 HOME ECONOMICS glass in these will be sufficient decoration. Of course, if one is building a handsome house, and has the means to spend on fine carvings, the dining-room and library are the rooms where such work is appropriate and satisfactory. A bay-window in the dining-room will admit of a few plants— the most attractive thing one can have in this room. Let the vestibule and entrance-hall be as spacious as your means will permit. The hall gives character to the house. Nothing in make-up and finish of any other part Vestibule of the house can atone for a cramped and badly ontdge lighted hall. Somewhere on the first floor there hall. should be a closet for wraps, umbrellas, overshoes, etc. With such a place for putting away the outdoor garments, it is possible to make the hall a pleasant reception-room. The staircase, wherever placed, should be broad and easy to mount, with at least two wide landings to break its ; length. The back staircase should be built for Staircases its proper use—the passing up and down for the front. performance of the regular work of the house, and for carrying furniture, baggage, etc., from one floor to another. For these purposes the stairs should be straight, of an easy incline, and well lighted. As a rule the reverse is the case. THE KITCHEN AND PANTRIES Last, but not least, plan carefully for the kitchen and pantries. The kitchen should be large enough to be com- fortable as to temperature and ventilation. Arrange it so that nearly all the work of cooking, dish-washing, etc., may be done within an area of one hundred square feet. A rough plan is given here of kitchen, pantries, back hall, and stairs, that may be suggestive of the method of connecting the different points of work closely and systematically. (See SUMH BSSENTIALS OF THE HOME 13 Fig. No. 2.) The kitchen should not be so large as to make the work of keeping it clean a burden, nor so small that it cannot be well ventilated and kept fairly cool. If the plan given is followed, all the work of cooking, serving, and dish-washing can be confined to a small portion of the kitchen. At the same time the room is sufficiently large to insure a comfortable at- mosphere, and there will always be pumaeeS= s a clear, orderly space, which will be MU a comfort and convenience when a R extra work is to be done. Vi . D U The woodwork in the kitchen should be very plain = and it should be fin- $* Z BBS ished in oil. There [8.8 3] should be no grooves ‘ 74 to hold dust or mois- ture. The walls may be painted, or they $ may be covered with H P| one of the papers that can 7 be wash- ed.Whenf A B : one can | N | ij afford it,’ . Fig, 2. tiling 1S __H, kitchen; A. B, china-closet and pantry; C, cold pantrys D, back hall; E, F, closets for cleaning-appliances and out-door garments; I, gas-range: J), coal-range; the most K. sink; L, draining-board; M, table; N, dresser; O, table; P, chest of drawers with shelf above for clock, etc.; Q, back stairs; R, cellar stairs; S, S, S, S, S, windows; U, satisfac- door into front hall; V, door into back hall. tory finish for the lower part of the walls, say for a space of from four to six feet. This is an expensive finish at the beginning; but when it is remembered that the first cost is the only outlay, and that the tiles will sper Big last as long as the house stands, it will be seen that they are not an extravagant investment. The blue-and- 14 HOME ECONOMICS white glazed Dutch tiles are especially adapted for a kitchen. Yellow tiles will give a warm tone, and when the kitchen is on the north side, or not well lighted, as is the case in many houses in city blocks, this color is advisable. The floors of kitchens, pantries, back halls, and stairs should be of hard wood, finished in oil, or stained and varnished. Such floors are easy to keep clean, and there is no temptation to water-soak them. The kitchen windows should be large, and should lower from the top with ease. The screens should be made to cover the entire window. There ought to be a flue in the chimney to carry off gases and odors. A generous sink and ample table-room save much break- age and lighten the labor in the kitchen. The sink should be broad, and the water-faucets should be set well up and back. From my own observation, it seems as if the greater part of the breaking and nicking of dishes is done by striking the articles against the water- Headline faucets. In a narrow sink the breakage is much of dishes, greater than in a broad one. When it is possi- ble to avoid it, the kitchen sink should not be made of wood. Those made of soapstone, and other kinds of stone, are excellent. Iron sinks are good, except that they rust easily. If wooden sinks must be used, they should be lined with zinc or some other metallic substance. The porcelain-lined sinks are sanitary and easily cared for. The sink should never be inclosed. The waste pipe should be covered with a fairly fine strainer, which should be kept screwed securely in place. ae Every sink should have at one end a lon Dramig- draining-shelf. This shelf should be well ed and inclined slightly toward the sink. If there is space to allow it, have a broad shelf or table at the other end. A low movable table may be kept under this. In planning the kitchen, leave space for a gas-stove near Floors. Windows. Sinks. SOME ESSENTIALS OF THE HOME 15 the range. A small opening should be made in the chimney for connecting the gas-stove with a pipe which carries off the products of combustion. PANTRIES A great economy of time, strength, and materials is gained by having ample and well-arranged pantries. To prevent sounds and odors reaching the dining- room from the kitchen, the communication be- _Fantries tween these two rooms should be through several ne doors. The plan of pantry and china-closet given below will be found to combine convenience for work and protection against odors and _ sounds. Opening from the dining-room is the china-closet. | Here are kept the fine china and glass, the table- ware and silver in daily use, and any table appliances one may wish to have convenient to the eee A, china-closet; B, pantry; C, door into kitchen; D, door ini = . i between china-closet and pantry; E, door into dining-room; dining: TOON! Th 8 F, sink; G, table with shelves above; H, broad shelves with pantry is lighted and ‘losets above and below; I, draining-board; J, J, drawers with closets above; K; broad shelves with closets above and -aired by a small win- 2050 basw and theives above Ne drawers with closets dow. above; S, S, windows. Connecting this pantry with the kitchen, and opening from it, is another pantry, which is a little larger than the first, which contains drawers, closets, and shelves for dishes and such supplies as crackers, sugar, vinegar, oil, and salt, which one likes to have near the dining-room. Here the tableware that must be taken into the kitchen may be kept. 16 HOME ECONOMICS A sink with hot and cold water is provided for the care of the finest tableware, and there isa large stationary table which will be found indispensable in the table service, dish- washing, and arrangement of colddishes. This room is lighted and ventilated by a window. At the other side of the kitchenis acold pantry(C), _ where the groceries Fig. 4 ~ and cooked food may , table; R; shelves with drawers Belane eee re a locked be stored. A plan of as this is given below. A closet where the brooms, brushes, and all appliances for cleaning the house may be kept is a necessity. This closet should have one or two broad shelves on which to place the articles used in cleaning, and the cloths for covering furniture and pictures when sweeping,etc. There should be two rows of hooks, one above the other, on which to hang brushes, brooms, etc. (£) Fig- ure 5 shows the ar- rangement of such C, cold pantry; O, refrigerator-o a closet. Next it is Fig. 5 E, closet for cl -appliances; F, , ete Ty shown another closet Boas ee eRe cess Fe chose for WHER Ot ive Z, umbrella-stand, (F), where wraps for every-day use, overshoes, umbrellas, etc., may be kept. A dresser is almost a necessity in the kitchen. It is cer- tainly a most convenient and pleasant arrangement, and well merits its name “dresser,” for it is an adornment as well as a most useful piece of furniture. SOME ESSENTIALS OF THE HOME 17 The dresser should be made of the same kind of wood as that in which the kitchen is finished. It should be long enough to divide into several parts. The following plan may be modified to suit varying tastes and needs. The height of the one suggested in the diagram is about eight feet; length, six feet; depth of bottom closet, twenty inches; depth of upper closet, fourteen inches. Between the upper and lower closets have two drawers, and slid- ing shelves between the drawers and broad shelf. A is the sliding shelf, B the broad shelf, C the drawer. The shelves in the upper closet should be grooved, so that dishes and plates may be stood on end upon them. Close the closet with sliding glass doors. If the kitchen is so arranged that there is no place for such a dresser, one may have, at least, a corner cupboard. Cut No. 7 gives a plan for another kind of dresser, which supplies more close cupboards and drawers. Fig. 6. MATERIALS USED IN BUILDING Naturally, the most durable building-materials are stone and brick, but owing to the expense of these materials and the cost of handling them, wood is generally used for 2 18 HOME ECONOMICS houses of moderate price built in suburbs and country places. Whatever the material employed, it should be of such quality and treated in such a manner as to prevent the walls from absorbing or retaining dampness. Bricks absorb moisture readily. This is particularly true of a poor quality of brick. Therefore, when bricks are used for the outer walls of a house, only those of the best grade should be employed, and the finished walls should be made impervious to moisture by a coat of good paint. If wood is the ma- terial used in the structure, it should be thoroughly seasoned (see “Woods”) and free from sapwood. Every piece that is exposed to wind and rain should be pro- tected by paint, oil, or some wood pre- servative. In the in- terior of the house all the wood finish should Fig. 7. be protected by var- nish, oil, wax, or paint. Wood that is used on the outside of the house should be put on so that water cannot lodge in or under it. It often happens that rain- and snow-water work their way ie under shingles and clapboards, the flooring of in wood, piazzas or steps, and in a short time cause the wood to decay. This decay is contagious, and in time large patches of roof, flooring, or joists are destroyed. Bricks. SOME ESSENTIALS OF THE HOME 19 The best material and good workmanship will almost insure against this kind of loss and annoyance. Any woodwork that comes near the soil, such as steps, piaz- zas, etc., should be constructed in such a way that thorough ventilation between the woodwork and the earth is assured. The laying and finish of the floors of the house is particu- larly important. The wood for this purpose should be perfectly seasoned, and the boards so The laying well matched that neither dust nor water can finishing pass through the joinings. They should be _ offiors. wholly of rift wood, if quartered wood is not used (I am not speaking now of inlaid or parquetry floors). All floors that are not to be covered with carpets or matting should be finished in such a manner that they will be pleasant to look upon and easy to care for. (See “Woods,” “Rift,” and “Slash.”) A badly finished floor is a continual source of annoyance, while, on the other hand, the plainest floor of thoroughly seasoned and matched boards, properly cared for and well finished, will be a joy forever. Doors and Doors and window-sashes should be substantially sashes, and carefully made, and of the best-seasoned wood. The leaders and water-pipes used on the outside of the house should, in cold climates, be made so that they will not be injured readily by ice. Corrugated pipes, when water freezes in them, do not burst as ia easily as smooth ones. pipes. As to the painting, it should be borne in mind that durability is attained in proportion to the amount of lead used. For this reason white, red, and drab paints are the best, as a great deal of lead may be __ employed in mixingthem. Thesurface shouldbe “yeonoe perfectly dry before paint is applied. Ifthe paint of house. is laid on a damp surface, it will blister and come off in flakes. The most suitable time for painting the out- 20 HOME ECONOMICS side of a house is in the autumn, when the weather is clear and cold. If the finish of the woodwork of the interior of the house is in the natural wood, it should, when possible, be rubbed smooth with sandpaper before being oiled or var- aed nished. If it is varnished, several coats should woodwork. be applied, each coat being rubbed down. All of these details add to the first expense; but they will pay in the end, because of the gain in beauty and durability. The wood used in all kinds of closets should be free from pitch, and, if painted or varnished, so well done that there shall be no danger of articles sticking to it. Never oil the woodwork in closets. THE INTERIOR FINISH OF THE HOUSE So much depends upon the location, the style of house, furnishing, and mode of living, that a few suggestions are all that can be given on this subject. The interior finish of the house should be in harmony with the location, style, and furnishing. If the house is : exposed to strong light and sunshine, the finish ie should be soft in tone, and free from strong or shouldhar- pronounced colors. On the other hand, in a city monize block the light and sunshine do not come into all with loca- ‘ tion, ete, parts of the house either abundantly or strongly. In such a house the finish should be of a kind that will reflect warmth and light, not absorb it. For somber, sunless rooms and halls the floors, walls, ee ceilings, and woodwork should be as light and warmth of Warm in tone as possible. Yellow tones light color. up a room and give a sense of warmth. Red gives a sense of warmth, but does not brighten a room as yellow does. All shades of green are cold, but SOME ESSENTIALS OF THE HOME 21 the lighter they are the cooler the effect will be. Blue is also cold, but less so than green. Browns are somewhat neutral, but give an impression of warmth rather than cold. Olive greens in which the yellow predominates are soft, warm, and restful colors, which may be used in any light or climate. The general tone in the finish of rooms that have a north- ern exposure, or that are not well lighted, shduld be either in dull reds or yellows. In finishing the walls of a room, it should always be re- membered that they are to serve as a background for pic- tures, furniture, and hangings. For this reason they should be made as soft and neutral as possible. Large and set designs, and pronounced colors, are diffi- Be aa cult things to deal with in furnishing a room. ground for Of course the most sanitary finish is the calci- Ptnre® mined or painted walls, but as a rule they are cold and hard. A paper in plain color and soft tints never offends or tires the eyes. Cartridge-papers are very satis- factory on this account. The back of very cheap paper will sometimes make a good wall-covering. This is particularly true when the back is a soft écru or buff. A plain finish is especially desirable for the walls of halls, parlors, libraries, and dining-rooms. Light papers with dainty colorings and designs are appropriate for bedrooms. Papers with set figures or geometrical designs wan should not be used on the walls of a sleeping- papers. room. If one should happen to be ill for any length of time in such a room, these designs would be a con- tinual torture to the eye. The background of a paper used in a sleeping-room should be of a soft, delicate shade of cream,—or gray is good,—and over this might be running vines, or flowers either single, clustered, or festooned; a frieze of sedgy grass, flags, etc., would be a pleasing 22 HOME ECONOMICS finish; and, ill or well, one would rarely tire or be annoyed by the designs or tones in such a wall-covering. If the house is heated by steam or hot water, Placingof the pipes and radiators that are brought into a piperana oom Should be made as inconspicuous as possible. radiators. They should be placed where they will not take up too much wall-space. Sometimes the most desirable part of a room is spoiled by these ugly pipes. THE CHIMNEY AND FURNACE-PIPES The first considerations in building a chimney should be safety and the efficiency of the draft. In the accounts of the burning of dwelling-houses, the cause given for the origin of the fire, in a great majority of cases, is a defective flue. This applies to all classes of houses, from the cheapest to the most costly. Certainly in this day materials and workmanship ought to be of so high an order that it would be almost an impossibility to have fires from such a cause. The draft depends, to some extent, upon location. When Height of practicable, the chimney should be carried high chimney. @nough for the top to be free from all obstruction. A chimney whose top is overshadowed on one or more sides by high walls will not draw when the wind is in certain directions. In building fireplaces, every precaution should be taken to preclude all danger of the woodwork taking fire. This may be accomplished by surrounding them with thick walls of brick or other masonry. Deep fireplaces do not heat a Fire 100™ as well as shallow ones, except at the ex- places, pense of a great deal of fuel. Unless one lives in the country, where wood is cheap, the fireplace should not be very large. The back should slant forward as it rises; this tends to throw the heat into the room. SOME ESSENTIALS OF THE HOME 23 Kvery fireplace should be provided with a damper that may be opened or closed at will. The best finish for the interior is fire-brick. A facing and hearth of glazed tiles is desirable, as they are clean and reflect the heat. Hot-air pipes, when passing through walls or floors, should be several inches from the woodwork. If such openings can be plastered, or the pipes wrapped = in asbestos, the danger of fire from this cause will be greatly diminished. Use every precaution here. ome safe- guards, THE PLUMBING The plumbing of the house should be of the best quality, as simple as possible in construction, and there should be no more of it than is actually necessary for the comfort and convenience of the family. Stationary basins with hot and cold water in the bedrooms, and bath-rooms con- ; nected with sleeping-rooms, lighten the labor of ee those doing the work of the household, and they are a great luxury; but they are dangerous things to have in or next to sleeping-rooms. It is better to have bath- rooms as far away from sleeping-rooms as possible, and to put generous, portable wash-stands and bowls in the sleeping- rooms. There should be the least possible horizontal piping laid in the house. Hence, bath-rooms, closets, etc., should be placed, when practicable, in locations on the dif- . ferent floors that are relatively the same. All og plumbing should be in sight, and the traps so placed that they may be opened and examined with ease. The trapping is one of the most important constructions in plumbing, and only traps of the simplest form should be used. A trap is a U-shaped bend ina 7yapsand pipe. It must always contain a sufficient quantity of water to extend an inch or more above the bend. This f 24 HOME ECONOMICS water is termed the seal, and its office is to prevent the escape of sewer-gas from the pipe into the room. There are many kinds of sewer-gas traps, but - they all aim at the same result — the water-seal. The soil-pipe must be thoroughly ven- tilated, and the ven- tilating-pipe should Fig. 8. A, B, common traps; C, D, modifications of A and B—screw- be carried well up caps, as shown at a, being added for cleaning out the traps; E, 1 ngtotheereriorot above the roof, be- yond ll possible chance of foul air being drawn into the house through the windows. On the size of the soil-pipe depends much of its efficiency. It should never be so large that it cannot be thoroughly fiushed—that is, filled with water, so that every part of it is cleansed as the water flows through. A four-inch pipe is the size generally used; but if the flow of water is not abun- dant, a smaller pipe would be better. The overflow-pipes of the bowls and bath-tubs of old-style plumbing are most difficult to flush or disinfect. This kind of overflow-pipe is still used in cheap plumbing, but the most advanced plumbers now have much better arrangements, the stand-pipe for bath-tubs being one of the simplest and best. Naturally, every year there are new appliances, or improvements on old forms, and builders should make every effort to get those that are- a best from the sanitary point of view. in ae Each water-closet should be provided with a closets. separate flushing-tank which will hold at least three gallons of water. The flushing-pipe of the water-closet should never have direct communication with the main tank. When this communication exists there is G, ventilating-traps with air-pipes at 4 lea a building. Overflow- pipes. SOME ESSENTIALS OF THE HOME 25 always danger of contaminating the water supplying boiler, bowls, baths, etc. When there is but one bath-room in the house, there should be a water-closet on the first or second floor. It is desirable to have a bath-room for the servants, if practicable. A small room on the first floor with bowl and water-closet will be found a great convenience. The placing of the pipes should be studied with great care. When it can be avoided they should not be put on the north side of the house. A planof care in the plumbing should be kept in every house, and Pleecing of the housekeeper should make herself familiar asta with its details. The universal motto in regard to plumbing should be: The best, the simplest, and the least possible. I want here to mention two books which would prove of great value to the householder, if studied with care. They are both so clearly and simply written that any amateur can understand them. One is “How to ,2o0nto? Drain a House,” by George E. Waring, Jr., and the other is “ Home Sanitation,” edited by Ellen H. Richards and Marion Talbot. COUNTRY HOUSES—DRAINAGE AND EARTH-CLOSETS In communities where there are no water or sewerage systems, the problem of the disposal of the sewage is a serious one; but it should not be neglected or ignored, as is often the case. Owing to the habit, prevalent in many country places, of throwing all the slop-water of the house- hold upon the ground near the dwelling itself, poisonous gases are constantly being diffused, and the poison also filters through the earth from these points of deposit into the wells. I suppose it is no exaggeration to say that one half of the people living in country places suffer from im- paired health on this account. 26 HOME ECONOMICS Earth has great purifying power. The dirtiest water, after filtering through a large area of earth, becomes comparatively pure. It takes time, how- ever, to accomplish this. All dirty water should be carried as far as possible from the house. When there is no other means of disposing of it than on the surface of the ground, drains ane should be constructed of well-joined tiles, and drainfor laid in a trench that has a slight downward in- a cline. The trench should be filled in with clay. The outlet of this drain may be on a piece of land distant from the house at least two hundred feet. Every particle of liquid refuse must go into this drain. When it is not possible to have a water-closet, an earth- closet should be constructed, with care to have it as sanitary as such things can be made. Each member of the household should be taught how to use the earth, and the necessity of keeping the earth- closet dry. This closet should be connected with the house only by a covered passage. It should be well lighted and ventilated. The vault must be shallow, with a bottom of well-packed clay. The board that shuts in the vault must be so ar- ranged that it can be easily removed, and it should have two openings cut in it for ventilation. The contents of the vault must be kept covered with fine, dry earth. If the earth is mixed with powdered charcoal, so much the better. A box of this mixture, and a small shovel, should be kept in the closet. The vault will have to be cleaned frequently. Chloride of lime, or quicklime, might be scattered in the vault occasionally. No liquid should ever be poured into the closet. The secret of keeping it in a sanitary condition consists in keeping it dry, and sprin- kling in dry earth every time it is used. Earth asa purifier. Earth- closets. CHAPTER II THE WATER-SUPPLY Situation and depth of well or spring. Methods of softening and purifying water. Tests for impurities in water. Do any of us ever realize how dependent we are on water for life and health? Water is the carrier of food throughout the whole system. Upon its purity life and health depend; if, on the contrary, it is impure, it carries with it disease, anil and often death. necessity. It is the duty of every head of a family to see to it that the household is furnished with as pure water as possible. If the water is supplied to a town by a corporation, the chances are that it is as pure as it is possible to get within a reasonable distance. The great danger is from wells, either in town or country, or from bodies of water into which sewage flows. The general criterion of pure water is that which is “free from color, taste, or smell, and is cool, soft, ea bright, well aérated, and entirely free from de- of purity. posit.” This standard is correct as far as it goes, but the condi- tion it describes does not always indicate perfectly pure water. Water may have all these characteristics and yet 27 28 HOME ECONOMICS hold in solution poisons from decaying organic substances. Strictly speaking, no water is pure, except distilled water. Our supply of water comes from rivers, lakes, springs, and wells. These sources are fed by the rain and melting snows. Portions of these rain- and snow-waters Sources of flow directly from the surface of the earth into water-sup- §. at . ply. rivers, lakes, springs, etc. Other portions filter through the soil. : ; That which flows over the soil carries with it portions of the loose matter which it encounters in its rush to stream or pond. The water that sinks into the soil filters until it reaches well, spring, or subterranean stream. In its passage through the soil it may, and usually does, undergo many changes, all depending on what it finds in its travels. One of the characteristics of water is its solvent power. The purer and softer it is, the greater this power. In per- colating through the soil it dissolves many sub- pape stances it finds there, and absorbs some of them. water. On the other hand, clean soil—that is to say, soil free from any decaying organic substance, either animal or vegetable—has the power of purifying water, provided the bed of earth through which it per- colates is thick enough. The greatest danger of poison in water comes from the presence of decaying organic matter. The sources Pollution of this pollution are many; but the most deadly. easily ? prevented. and it may be said the most common, are those which might be prevented. When the water-supply comes from wells or springs near a habitation, there is always a possibility of pollution, unless the surrounding soil is guarded with greatest care. All ref- use, dry or liquid, from houses, barns, and outhouses, if left where it can soak into the soil, will, if the spring or well is near enough, find its way into the water. This almost inva: riably means disease, and very often death. THE WATER-SUPPLY 29 It would fill the souls of many good men and women with horror if they were told that they are slowly, but surely, poisoning their families and themselves with the filth which they throw upon the earth near what should be the sources of the purest physical life. The pile of manure but a few yards away from the well, the slop- Sources of water thrown on the ground near the well, the polation. badly constructed drain that allows a portion of the sewage to leak into the earth and in this way reach the water in the well—each of these carries its share of polluting matter. The heaps of decaying matter found about many houses are another source of contamination. It will be seen, then, that to keep the earth clean in the vicinity of the water-supply is of the greatest importance. Water drawn from marshy lands will always contain de- caying vegetable matter, and it should not be used for drinking purposes. Inorganic matter is also dissolved and taken up by water, which invariably contains traces of the inorganic substances over which it flows. Carbonate of lime (chalk) and sulphate of lime (gypsum) are the most common and abun- ‘ dant minerals found in water. It is the presence Tareas of these substances which gives us what we call water. “hard” water. Iron, phosphates, etc., are also found in water, according to the locality over which it flows. Air and carbonic-acid gas are always constituents of pure water. SITUATION AND DEPTH OF WELL OR SPRING From what has been said, there can be no doubt as to the importance of the location of the well or spring from which the house obtains its supply of water. Itis Situation an imperative necessity that the well should be so aeesrey placed that there is not a shade of a chance of pollution. The depth of the well is very important. A shallow well 30 HOME ECONOMICS is always unsafe, because surface-water, before it has sunk through enough earth for purification, will filter Depth of into it. The walls of a well should be cemented well or 5 spring. SO as to prevent surface-water from soaking through them. As soft water has the power of dissolving lead in small quantities, this metal should not be used for water-pipes when it can be avoided. Water which has stood in the pipes for any length of time should never be used for drinking purposes or in the prepara- tion of food. It should be allowed to run long enough to empty the pipe before any is collected for use. There are several kinds of impurities: 1. That which comes from organic substances, be it vege- table or animal. 2. Inorganic matter, such as lime, iron, lead, etc. 8. Water has considerable solvent powers, and as it flows over rocks and through beds of different kinds of soil it dis- solves both inorganic and organic substances. The purest known natural waters contain some foreign substances. Dangers of lead pipes. METHODS OF SOFTENING AND PURIFYING WATER There are several methods of purifying water when it holds in solution or suspension so much foreign matter as Senha to make it unhealthy or difficult to use for do- evhods of mestic purposes. a 1. One of the simplest and most commonly employed methods is to boil the water. This process practically kills all the organic life contained in the water; it also softens the water, if the hardness be temporary. 2. Filtering the water purifies to some extent—that is, all substances held in suspension are filtered out; but it must be remembered that any substance held in solution passes THE WATER-SUPPLY 31 through, so it is not possible to make hard water soft by filtration. All natural waters have dissolved in them carbon dioxid, oxygen, and nitrogen. Water absorbs about its own volume of carbon dioxid, about one The action twenty-fifth of its own volume of oxygen, and cae a much smaller quantity of nitrogen. These gases give life, sparkle, and a suggestion of flavor to water. Carbon dioxid has the property of dissolving lime. As the water charged with this gas flows over the beds of lime- stone and sulphate of lime (gypsum), it dissolves particles of the lime which is held in solution by the carbon dioxid, thus giving to the water the quality we call hardness. 3. There are two kinds of hardness—temporary and per- manent. 4. Temporary hardness is due to carbonates. Water flow- ing over a limestone district dissolves small portions of the lime which is held in solution by the carbonic acid in the water. Now, if the carbonic acid be removed or given some- thing else to work upon, the lime in the water is precipitated. We see this when we boil water and a white crust is found on the vessel in which it was boiled. In Paris, a thick coat covers the interior of the vessel in which water is boiled in a day or two; even the cover of the saucepan will contain a coating of lime where the steam has condensed. 5. When water is boiled for some time the carbonic-acid gas is driven off, and there is nothing to hold the lime in solution, so it drops out of the water. But this gas gives life to water, and by long boiling we lose this, and, naturally, as a beverage it is flat and unpalatable, and the beverages which we make from it are not so bright as those made with water which has been freshly boiled. If the water is poured several times from one vessel to another, it will reabsorb some of the gases, and the flavor will be improved. 32 HOME ECONOMICS One of the best methods of removing temporary hardness (that due to the carbonates) is what is known as Clark’s Baaading process. One tenth of lime-water is added to the temporary hard water—that is, one gallon of lime-water to hardness. every ten gallons of hard water. (See “Lime- Water.”) Removing When the hardness is permanent it is softened oe ing by the addition of sal-soda. However, enough of this chemical cannot be used to soften the water employed for cooking purposes, but it is valuable as an agent for softening the water employed in washing and cleaning. When water contains organic matter, anything that will coagulate the albuminous substance in the water pune will tend to purify it. Alum, oak chips, and certain iat ~ kinds of nuts have the property of coagulating albuminous matter, and the precipitate carries down other impurities. Water taken from marshy land, ponds, or rivers, in which decaying organic substances are dissolved, should be puri- fied by the addition of oak chips or alum. When the water becomes clear it should be filtered or strained. Use about eight grains of alum to a gallon of water; if the oak chips are used, a handful to about two gallons of water. When a filter is not employed in the kitchen, all the water used for drinking and cooking may be strained through a flannel bag—small bags with running-strings, which may be fastened on the faucet. They should be changed every day. TESTS FOR IMPURITIES IN WATER Church gives the following simple tests, which may be made in any kitchen, for impurities in water: ey “Boil one quart of the water to be tested ration, in a porcelain dish, and then heat the dry resi- due hotter and hotter. If the original residue is white and powdery in appearance, that is, so far, a good THE WATER-SUPPLY 33 sign; but if it is partly white and partly yellowish or green- ish, and especially if there are gum-like stains around the residue, then, on heating these parts of the residue, we shall probably see them darken, fuse, and burn away in part, giving out fumes having a disagreeable smell. If the blackening is considerable, much organic matter is present; but if the smell is offensive (like burnt feathers), then it is certain that the organic matter is of animal origin, and is, therefore, more likely to be unwholesome, or even poisonous.” “Tf water contains substances derived from the decay of animal or vegetable matters, such as those in sewage and manure and the refuse of plants, then it is found that such a water will destroy the beau- ect Laan tiful purple color of a chemical substance called of renee permanganate of potash. The reason for this is as follows: The decaying organic matter of the water attracts oxygen strongly when it is presented in certain states or forms. Now, a solution of the above perman- ganate contains much oxygen just in the right state to be attracted and removed. By its removal from the perman- ganate the composition of that substance is altered and its color destroyed. The more organic matter in the water, the more permanganate will be decolorized. The test may be thus applied: Fill a clean white tea-cup with the water to be tested. Add about sixty drops of weak sulphuric acid; stir with a clean slip of window-glass. Now pour in enough of a weak solution of permanganate of potash to render the water a rich rose-color. Cover the cup with a clean glass plate. Now, if there be much organic matter in the water, the color will go in a few minutes, and more permanganate may be added, and still lose its color. It must be recollected, in using this test, that peaty matter and iron salts, which are not necessarily unwholesome, give the same results.” “Nearly fill a clean tumbler with water, and then add 3 . 34 HOME ECONOMICS twenty drops of nitric acid, and five of a solution of ni- trate of silver (lunar caustic), or else a small crystal of _ _ that substance. Stir with a clean slip of glass, a Aad and if there is more than a slight bluish-white cloudiness, if there is a solid curdy substance found, then there is too much common salé in the water. It may be said, What harm is there in common salt? We answer, None in the common salt as such, but only in common salt as evidence of some kinds of pollution. We will explain. Common salt (chloride of sodium) does not occur in rain-water or pure well-water, except to the extent of a little over a grain per gallon. Of course there is more in waters from salt-bearing rocks and in waters near the sea. But generally,—at all events, in a chalk or lime- stone district,—where common salt is found in any quantity exceeding one and one half grains per gallon, which gives a mere cloudiness with nitrate of silver, the salt is derived from sewage—in other words, from the salt consumed in human food and voided chiefly with the urine. If a water be found to contain both organic matter and common salt, it is probably contaminated by house or town sewage. If organic matter be abundant, but accompanied by a smaller quantity of common salt, then the source of pollution is rather the excrement of farm animals than of man, or it may arise merely from vegetable refuse.” CHAPTER III FURNISHING The hall. The dining-room. The library. The living-room. The parlor. The bedrooms. The kitchen. Kitchen utensils. Tinware. Ironware. Granite-ware. Woodenware. Earthenware. Stoneware. Miscella- neous. Ventilation. The furnishing of the house should be within one’s means and in harmony with the structure. It is possible to furnish a home comfortably, and even elegantly, for the same sum that is often spent in producing the The essen- tials in most commonplace and uncomfortable results. farnishing. The beginners in housekeeping should, first of all, decide upon the amount of money they can afford to spend in furnishing; next they should make a list of the essentials; then another list of desirable accessories should be made out; finally, they should agree to buy the essentials first, to have them of as good material and workmanship as can be afforded, and to select form and colors that will be simple and quiet rather than elaborate and striking. It is hardly possible to estimate the influence that the furnishing of a room has upon the feelings and character of the inmates. Every article in a room should have a reason for being there. The thing that supports real weight or pressure should have the appearance of being able to do so without any strain upon itself or danger to the object supported. 35 36 HOME ECONOMICS A chair or couch should look strong enough to sustain the weight of any one who sits on it. A table on which many ee articles are placed, as a five-o’clock tea-table, for ticle of fur- example, should be broad and firm, and should not Re give the impression of being too small or too del- adapted to icate for its burden. On the contrary, the table ite special on which the fragile vase of flowers is placed is es all the more appropriate and attractive if it is of a delicate, airy construction. Draperies should indicate that they are used to soften the light, replace doors, or give softness or color to some Pictures part of the room. Pictures and ornaments are andorna- +0 give pleasure to the eye, and they should be of ments. . such a character, and arranged in such a manner, that they will accomplish this result. THE HAbL It is the hall that gives the first impression of the home. Of course the furnishing of it must depend upon the style and size of the house and upon the character of eres the room. Oak is, as a rule, the most satisfac- the hall, tory wood to use here. If the hall is one of the narrow passageways so often found in city houses, a hall-stand, composed of seat, mirror, and umbrella-stand, and having several hooks to hang hats and wraps upon, is the extent of the furniture that can be allowed. If the size of the hall will permit, it is best to furnish it as a reception-room. In that case, a table, chairs, hall-settle or a plain sofa, mirror, pictures, and, if there is room, a small bookcase, will make a comfortable and charming room. A fireplace usually includes a mantel-shelf on which some ornaments may be arranged. A clock is always appropriate in a hall. The floor, if possible, should be of hard wood, and rugs may be laid on it here and there. FURNISHING 37 THE DINING-ROOM The floor of this room should be of hard wood. The table and chairs must be well made and of generous size. It is impossible to arrange a narrow table in an ele- gant manner, and nothing is more uncomforta- Finish and ble than small, unsubstantial dining-room chairs. aes : When the sideboard is built into the side of the room, the table and chairs will be all the necessary furniture. If there is no sideboard, and the expense of one cannot be incurred, a sideboard-table, which may be covered with a pretty cloth, will do to hold the odd bits of tableware one always wants in the dining-room. A mantel- piece and one or two cupboards give an opportunity of displaying pretty bits of porcelain and glass to the best advantage. Nothing one may put in the dining-room will add such brightness and charm as closets or cabinets, through the glass doors of which the brilliant glass and china may be seen. Growing plants and pictures are always a pleasing addition to this room, which should be one of the pleasantest in the house. THE LIBRARY The ideal library is a room in a quiet corner of the house, with bookcases built around the walls, not too high, so that the titles of the books may be read by a person ; standing on the floor. As wall-space is of great rei value in this room, there should be only one large window. The principal light should come from windows above the bookcdses. The floor should be of polished wood, and the walls painted or papered in rich, warm colors. An open fireplace, a library table of generous size, a desk, com- fortable chairs, a window-seat, a couch with pillows, rugs, 38 HOME ECONOMICS etc., all should find a place in this room. It will be made doubly attractive and instructive if there are some classical pictures and a few casts. The whole atmosphere of a library should suggest thought and study. THE LIVING-ROOM In every house there is one room in particular where the members of the family assemble in their hours of leisure. This room is known as the living-room or sitting-room. In many homes it combines parlor or drawing-room, sitting- room, library, and reception-room. When this is the case it is apt to be an exceptionally delightful place; in any case, it ought to be the most attractive room in the house. Here there should be the best light, the greatest amount of sunshine, the most pleasing and refining pictures, the Guckeie, easiest chairs, the most cheerful fire, and books, stitutes tables, foot-rests, etc. In a room of this kind comfort in there should be a large center-table, with a good the living- lamp or drop-light. If the family is large, one or two smaller tables, on which student-lamps are placed, will be of the greatest comfort. Even if there is a library, this room must have a bookcase filled with miscella- neous literature. A closet where newspapers, magazines, games, work, etc., may be kept will be found a great convenience. If there is no closet, some arrangement should be made for keeping these things. One so often wants to refer to back numbers of papers or magazines that these periodicals should be kept in an accessible place for a certain length of time. Another convenience in such a room is the box-seat. Any room used as much as this is sure to be should have a pol- ished floor, and there should be a generous supply of rugs. All the furnishing should be of the most substantial and comfortable kind, with nothing too good for constant wear FURNISHING 39 and exposure to light and sunshine. Anything that has to be pretected by scarfs or tidies is out of place here. Well- made ratan chairs, cushioned in seat and back, are light, clean, and comfortable. fate It seems a pity that so many people still cling ture in the to the rocking-chair. It takes up a great deal of Svs space, and the rockers are always in the way, and are continually being pushed against furniture and base- boards, where they often do much damage. The half-reclin- ing position which is the inevitable attitude assumed in this chair is not graceful, nor is it comfortable if one wishes to work or read. Besides, many people become inexpressibly nervous when they are in the same room with a person who is constantly rocking. Indeed, it is an absurd sight to see grown people rock as if they were little children amusing themselves with a toy horse. The style of chair that, in the end, is the most comfor- table, and that cultivates the best carriage of the body, is one with a broad, deep seat and a high, almost straight back. Such a chair will sustain one in an erect bao position, which should be the natural one when ble chairs, sitting down for work or reading. A few low re- clining-chairs should also be provided, and a broad, low couch with plenty of pillows gives an air of comfort to this room. The color of the walls, draperies, and furniture of ; the living-room should be soft, quiet, and restful. ee Some of the sofa-pillows, however, may be of room. rich and brilliant hues. THE PARLOR In some of the most delightful houses in this country they have dispensed with the parlor, the library and large living-room serving for family and friends, while a small reception-room is used for ceremonious callers, 40 HOME ECONOMICS A parlor should be elegant and dainty. The tints of walls, ceilings, and carpets should harmonize and be in delicate tones. The furniture should be light and elegant, the draperies rich, and pictures and ornaments good, even if that means very few of them. Really, unless one has a large establishment, it is best to omit the parlor. Its place may be supplied by a small reception-room, daintily furnished. The money that would be expended on the parlor may be used to far better advantage in the living-room, library, and other parts of the house. THE BEDROOMS The furnishing of these rooms is as important as that of any other part of the house. It is in the sleeping-room that one must get an interval of that absolute physical and mental rest which every human being requires during the twenty-four hours of each day. In sickness or health, there is no food or medicine that has such an influence on the physical and mental condition _ as restful slumber. Not one person in fifty re- mrs alizes the great importance of favorable condi- fulsleep. tions for healthful sleep. Without this restorer of tired nature we become nervous, irritable, and disagreeable to ourselves and those about us. Certainly everything should be done to make the qualifications for sleep as nearly perfect as possible. Two people should not occupy the same room unless it is absolutely necessary. If this is unavoidable, however, there Separate should at least be separate beds. The individual bedsin bed is not a difficult problem in these days of pl dainty enameled-iron beds, which can be had at "low prices, and of the beautiful brass beds for those who can afford them. The most desirable floor for the bedroom is the well-fin- * FURNISHING 41 ished one of hard wood. A poorly finished pine floor may be covered with a good matting, under which a smooth lining of paper or some other material should first be iaid down. Never nail a woolen carpet on the Zhe best floor of a bedroom. Rugs, large or small, that pedroor may be shaken and aired frequently in the open air, may be used to give a look of warmth and comfort that one likes in winter in our northern climate. Woolen stuffs absorb dust and odors, and they should not be used if they cannot be subjected to frequent dusting and airing. The light in the sleeping-room should.be softened by shades and draperies. It is well to have two sets of shades at the windows, one set light in color, and the . inner one a dark green, which may be drawn down 2 eet Heke at night, if necessary. The draperies should be one for of some soft, light, washable material. ee a The necessary furniture for a bedroom is a bed, dressing-case, one or two plain chairs and one easy-chair, a wash-stand of generous size, a toilet-set, a towel-rack, and a table. In addition to these things, if there is space and one can afford the extra outlay, a oe couch with a few pillows is a most desirable bedroom. piece of furniture. A large mat of Japanese mat- ting, or a Japanese cotton rug, should be placed in front of the wash-stand, whether the floor is polished or covered with matting. Another piece of furniture that will be of great service is a large screen. This may be used at night to prevent the wind from blowing directly on the sleeper, and in the daytime to shut off the corner where the toilet arrangements are kept. Of course the room will be all the more charming and convenient if there are pictures, a few book-shelves, and a writing-desk. Such a room may be kept in an absolutely sanitary condition with very little work. The most important article in the bedroom is, of course, the bed. The perfect bed will support all parts of the body 42 HOME ECONOMICS in an absolutely horizontal position. Firm springs and a good hair mattress will do this. The heavier the person aretha who sleeps in the bed, the more important it is bed can bo that the springs shall be strong and firm. If made abso- economy must be considered, let it be in the bed- Intely com- stead; the springs should be as good as possible. Nothing could be simpler or more sanitary than the iron or brass bed, with the woven-wire springs fas- tened to an iron frame. The only objection to the woven wire is that it is apt to sag—an almost unpardonable fault in a bed. But when the wire is of extra good quality, closely and firmly woven, and attached to an iron frame, it makes an excellent foundation for a single bed. Ifa thick, well-made mattress is placed on this, the bed will be very comfortable. The best arrangement, however, is to have a rather hard mattress, of excelsior, for example, with a good hair mattress on top. This gives a bed that will sustain the body at every point of contact, and which will be soft without yielding. Every- thing else being equal, one should get perfect rest on such a bed. It may be thought that two hair mattresses would be better than one hard one and one of hair, but this is not the case. I am convinced that half the unrest, sleeplessness, and backache with which people are afflicted is due to the fact that most of the beds in use do not support the body in a perfectly horizontal position. Heavy people are the greatest sufferers, for the middle of the body sinks into the yielding bed, and is at an angle where it should be straight so as to give perfect freedom to the internal organs. If one cannot afford hair or wool mattresses the excelsior mattress may be made more comfortable by laying a thick pad upon it. The pad may be made like a comfortable, of cotton-bat- ting, covered with white cotton cloth. It should be as wide and as long as the mattress and quite thick, Mat- tresses. FURNISHING 43 People who have been accustomed to a very soft bed may object, at first, to a support that yields only slightly; but once having given it a thorough test, they will never be willing to sleep on any other kind of bed. Teach the children to sleep on a firm bed, and with only the thinnest kind of a pillow, if any, under the head. The question of pillows is an important one also. It is difficult to induce one who has acquired the habit of sleeping on high pillows to change to low ones. But the pitaren reason for making such a change is based on a __ should be hygienic principle. When one is bolstered up in ae bed it is impossible to relax all the muscles, a an almost thing which can only be done when the head is pereney, almost on a level with the rest of the body. One _ position. should gradually accustom himself to sleeping with the head low. The pillows may be low- ered a little each week until the desired point is reached. The length of the bed and the length of the sheets are two important factors in the comfort—or discomfort—of the sleeper. The measurement of the bed on the Length of inside should not be less than seventy-eight inches. sheets of The finished sheet should measure at least two and ie three quarter yards. This will admit of the sheet : being tucked well under the bottom of the mattress, and of there being enough at the top to turn back and prevent the blankets from coming in contact with the face and hands. Some housekeepers are particular in this respect with all the beds except those occupied by the servants, to whom they give sheets of the smallest possible dimensions. It should be remembered that the generous sheet adds not only to the comfort of the sleeper, but that it also is a protec- tion to the bedding. Coverings should be as light as possible, and of a material that will insure ventilation. There is nothing better than the washable woolen blankets. Pillows. 44 HOME ECONOMICS A word as to the quality of the blankets. There is no question but that the all-wool blanket, being warmer and lighter, is more desirable than one of cotton or of wool. The only advantage of a mixture of cot- ton and wool is that the blanket does not shrink so much in the washing; but if the work is properly done there need be no perceptible shrinkage in the woolen ones. There are blankets that are so fine and costly that one hesitates to have them washed, or even cleaned, often. Such blankets are generally protected by a cotton or linen cover, and can be used a long time without cleaning. But even if these blankets do not become soiled, after a while they will have absorbed impurities from the body, and they should have frequent and thorough airings. The better plan is to have less costly coverings, that may be washed at least once a year. The making of the bed is quite as important as any other matter connected with it. Everything possible should be per done to prevent discomfort and restraint. In the tance ofa following directions, it is the sleeper who is con- a i sidered, and not the style of the bed. : 1. Spread the under sheet on the mattress, getting it perfectly smooth. Tuck it in all around. 2. Spread the top sheet on smoothly, having enough to tuck in generously at the foot. After tucking the sheet under the foot of the mattress, pull it down a How to little from the top, that it may not be too tight bed. over the feet of the sleeper. 3. Put the blankets on, having the first one come well down over the end of the mattress; lay the others even with the end of the mattress. If the blankets are double, see that the open end is toward the head of the bed, so that half of the blanket may be turned back if one wishes. 4, Tuck the top sheet and the blankets in at the side of the mattress, not under it. This leaves the covering free. Blankets. FURNISHING 45 5. Put on the pillows and spread. How this shall be done depends upon the mistress of the house. Taste and fashion vary in these matters constantly, and they are of no vital importance. Still, system and care are essential, that the bed may look neat and attractive. The mattresses should be protected by large cases of bleached or unbleached cotton cloth. Wide cotton should be procured for this. In measuring for the width of the case, allow for the width and the depth of Protection the mattress; in measuring for the length of the mattress, case, allow for the length and the depth of the mattress. Thus, if your mattress is seventy-six inches long, forty inches wide, and eight inches deep, you will require five yards of cloth fifty inches wide. This allows for the seams in making, and for some slight shrinkage. Fold the cloth together, and stitch it, leaving one side open. Slip the mat- tress in at the open side, and sew it up. This sewing may be like strong basting; for the covers should be taken off and washed twice a year. The mattresses for a double bed should be in such a form that the wear may come on all parts equally. For this reason it is a good plan to have the mattress made in two parts, one a square and the other an oblong. The oblong should be as long as the square, of course, and wide enough to fill the space between the edge of the square and the foot of the bedstead. If the square is turned about from day to day, and the oblong piece is sometimes at the foot and sometimes at the head, the wear on all parts of the mattress will be equalized. The one objection that may be raised to this arrangement is that the seam where the two pieces come together is sometimes annoying. To obviate this, a thin comfortable, made of cotton-batting and white cotton cloth, may be: spread over the mattress. If the springs are not covered, there should be a covering 46 HOME ECONOMICS of some washable material—strong unbleached cloth, for example. Springs that are of a style that will admit of : their being slipped into a casing may have a cov- heh ering made like that described for mattresses. If this cannot be done, have the cover so made that it will cover the ends and sides of the springs, and fasten it on with tapes. All springs should be covered for the pro- tection of the sheets and blankets. 1. Have mattress turned in different direction each day. 2. Spread under sheet smoothly over mattress, tucking it under the mattress. 3. Spread top sheet so as to tuck in well at foot. 4, Blankets with free ends at the head. 5. Fold sheet over blankets, then turn both back in a fold. Tuck in at sides of the bed, not under the mattress. 6. Put on spread and pillows. Points to remember. THE KITCHEN So much of the health and comfort of the family depends on the kitchen that the most careful thought should be given to its furnishing. First in importance is the range. As far as cooking appliances are concerned, we are now in a transition stage. With the exception of some localities far back in les the country where it is still used, wood as a fuel* purposes. for cooking has not been employed for many years. Anthracite coal takes its place in some parts of the country, and bituminous coal in others. For the last twenty years gas as a fuel for cooking purposes has been growing in favor. Various forms of petroleum are also used. Electricity is now preparing to enter the field as a powerful rival of all the other fuels. The costliness of the cooking apparatus which it requires seems to be the only obstacle in the way of its speedy adoption. ‘This objection will, no doubt, FURNISHING 47 be eliminated in time. Certainly, for the great majority of householders, coal will be the fuel for a long time to come. Whatever fuel is used, let the range be one of the best in the market. This is a true economy. The necessary qualifications of a good range are: 1. That the draft shall be perfect. 2. That checks and dampers shall be so arranged that the heat may be increased or decreased at will. 3. That there shall be ample oven-space. 4, That it is possible to make the oven as hot on the bottom as on the top. 5. That there shall be a good arrangement for broiling. 6. That the fire-box shall be large enough to take in suffi- cient coal for the work to be done without being filled to the top. 7. That a large part of the top surface of the range may be made hot enough for the boiling of liquids. 8. That the grate shall be of a kind that will admit of the bottom of the fire being cleaned without the use of a poker. (The Dokash and Duplex grates are both excellent.) 9. That the water-back is so arranged that an abundant supply of hot water may be assured. If a gas-range.is to be used, see that the oven accommoda- tions are ample, that there is a good place for broiling, and that there is room enough on the top of the range for boiling, stewing, frying, etc. Besure that there is eee one small burner, or even more, for simmering. The gas-range should have a small pipe entering the chimney to carry off the products of combustion. The pipe which supplies the gas to the range should be of iron, and large enough to insure a sufficient flow of gas when all the burners are in operation. Ample table-room in the kitchen simplifies the work. The tables should be strong and well made. A white table is very attractive, but it means a great deal of care. If the The range. 48 HOME ECONOMICS table is covered with white enameled cloth, it will always look well, and it may be kept clean with little labor, provided hot dishes are not placed on it. No matter what kind of tables are in use, there should be several smooth hard-wood boards to re- ceive the hot saucepans. These boards may be scrubbed clean in the sink every day. In large households where a great deal of cooking is done a table covered with zinc is most useful. A clock that is an accurate timekeeper is a necessity in the kitchen. There should be a few strong chairs, and one Other con. COMfortable chair, and a shelf for cook-books and veniences Other reading matter. A slate and pencil for writ- po ing down the daily orders will be a convenience, "and there ought to be an arrangement for hanging dish-towels to dry in wet weather. A coal-hod, shovel, tongs, broom, long-handled and short-handled brushes, dust-pan, draining-rack, hand-basin, a fiber pail, and a tea-kettle will complete the necessary furnishing of the kitchen. i Kitchen tables. KITCHEN UTENSILS The number of cooking utensils, and the most desirable materials for them, are difficult questions for the housekeeper to decide at any time; but to the beginner they The neces have an added importance, as the drain on the. ry kitch- ‘ . . enutensils, Purse must usually be considered. It is a mistake to fill the kitchen with all the utensils one may think she will be apt to need in the future. It is wiser to get the necessary articles first, and to have them of the best quality and the simplest construction. Utensils with the smoothest possible surface, and no more coils or grooves than are absolutely necessary, are the easiest to keep clean, and will be found to last the longest, and are therefore an economy in time and money. FURNISHING 49 There are several qualifications that are desirable in a cooking utensil: 1. Smoothness. — Hadiuhis 2. Ability to stand high temperature without qualities cracking, melting, or becoming rough. in cooking Sa utensils. 3. Imperviousness to the absorption of grease or flavors. 4, Inability to impart flavor to, or to discolor, food sub- stances. There are not many materials that combine all these qualifications. Iron and steel are desirable materials because they can sustain a high temperature without in- Why iron jury, and if properly cared for they grow smoother and steel and finer with use. For these reasons iron is the Fe desir- most satisfactory metal for the following articles: scat frying-kettles, frying-pans, omelet-pans, waffle-irons, etc. Iron utensils should not be used for cooking fruits, or similar articles into which acids enter, as they will discolor the prep- aration and spoil the flavor. The various kinds of granite or enameled ware, if Granite or of the first grade, are generally very satisfactory. para The surface is smooth and the utensils are light. Tinware is most useful for certain purposes. It must be remembered that this metal melts at a rather low tempera- ture, 7. e., 442° F., and it should never be exposed to a high temperature, such as is necessary, for example, in frying; nor should it be placed over the fire or in the oven without being covered with water, or some liquid in which water or milk enters. Water and watery substances tend to reduce the temperature, while fatty substances tend to raise it. (See “Temperature of Fats and Other Substances.”) Pewter and Britannia both melt at alow temper- Pewterand ature, and should be used only for such purposes Britannia. as do not require a dry heat. These metals make satisfac- tory tea-pots, dish-covers, etc. 4 Tinware. 50 HOME ECONOMICS Woodenware absorbs odors and fats. Articles made of this material, when used as receptacles for cereals, are apt to become filled with weevils. ware, therefore, for such purposes should be lim- Wooden- ware. The use of wooden- ited to the few articles that can be made of no other material. Stone- Stone- and earthen- ware for ordinary purposes. and earthenware and common crockery answer for all ordinary purposes. For baking-dishes which are sent to the table, there is nothing more satis- factory than the French fire-proof ware. It is dur- able and keeps its color; the glaze does not crack, and the ware does not absorb odors. The following is a list of the utensils needed in the kitchen: TINWARE Steamer large enough to steam puddings and brown bread. 2 sets of stamped muffin-pans, one containing 6 or 8 cups, and the other 12 cups. 4 cake-pans, XXX tin. 4 deep plates. Molds for puddings creams. 2 graduated quart-measures. 2 graduated measuring-cups, one divided into thirds, and one into fourths. 6 milk-pans (these are useful for many things). 2 dish-pans. Long-handled dipper. Coffee-biggin. and Purée-sieve. Fine sieve. Coarse strainer. Fine strainer. Coarse grater. Fine grater. Flour-scoop. Sugar-scoop. Boxes for sugar, rice, hominy, meal, etc. Tea-canister. Frying-basket. Spice-box. Bread-box. Cake-box. Biscuit-cutter. Tin pails for keeping drip. pings and fats to be used for frying. FURNISHING 51 IRONWARE Scotch bowl for frying. No. 3 or 4; size depends on use. 2 omelet-pans of French pol- ished ware or English ham- mered ware. 2 roasting-pans. 2frying-pans, small and large. Short-handled _frying-pan, that may be put in the oven. Skewers (steel). Waffle-iron. 3 double broilers— meat, fish, and toast. Soup-pot. Griddle. Meat-rack. 3 bread-pans. Set of roll-pans. 2 porcelain-lined kettles. GRANITE-WARE 8 stew-pans, ranging in size from one holding 1 quart to one holding 2 gallons. Colander. 2 double boilers, 1-quart size and 2-quart size. WOODENWARE Flour-sieve. Cover for fiour-barrel. Molding-board. Board on which to cut meats. Rolling-pin. Board on which to cut bread. and 3 boards to use on cook- ing-table. 6 wooden spoons. Vegetable-masher Chopping-bowl. EARTHENWARE 6 bowls, ranging from 1-quart size to 6-quart size. 6 white bowls, ranging from 1-pint size to 1-quart size. 6 cups and saucers. 6 white pitchers of various sizes. 12 dinner-plates. 52 HOME ECONOMICS 12 breakfast-plates. 2 or 3 pudding-dishes of va- Several platters and small rious sizes. dishes to use in putting Molds. away Tood. STONEWARE Several pots of various sizes Jugs for molasses, vinegar, for use in keeping butter, etc. salt-pork, moist cake, etc. MISCELLANEOUS Vegetable-slicer. Strong iron spoons. Palette-knife. Lemon-squeezer. Bread-knife. Good scales. Butcher’s knife. Mortar and pestle. Vegetable-knives. Coffee-mill. Large fork. Tea-pot. Common knives and forks. Coffee-pot. Egg-beaters. Funnel. Steel dish-cloth. Salt-, flour-, and pepper- Steel skewers. dredgers. Soap-shaker. Ice-pick. Teaspoons. Skimmer. Table-spoons. Cake-turner. Can-opener. All cooking utensils should be of as simple construction as possible, but the material and workmanship must be of the best. This is the wisest economy in the long run. Nearly all tin utensils are made by pressing thin sheets How tin Of sheet-iron into the required shapes, which are utensils then dipped into a bath of liquid tin. Cheap tin- are made, : - ware is made of a poor, light quality of sheet-iron, and has merely a thin plating of tin, which soon wears off, FURNISHING 53 making the utensils useless. If tin is cleaned with a gritty substance, like sand, or scraped with a sharp instrument, like a knife or steel skewer, the thin layer of tin Cleaning is apt to be cut through to the sheet-iron, and tin with the result is fine lines of rust on the article. 24 It is always best to buy block-tin, as then you are sure of getting a pure, substantial article. Utensils made Block-tin of heavy block-tin cost two or three times as much : as those of poor, light, and often impure tin, but they will wear five or six times as well. Enameled wares, such as granite-ware, blue enamels, etc., are made of iron, more or less heavy, coated with a prepara- tion which is allowed to dry and is then fused at a high temperature. These articles differ greatly a in quality, as is the case also with the tinware. In are made. purchasing any kind of enameled ware, each piece should be examined carefully to see that the en- eee amel is perfectly smooth. If it is cracked or sag chipped in the least, reject it, for it will not wear well. Manufacturers separate all such pieces from the per- fect ware and sell them as seconds. Dealers will often assure you that these seconds are just as good as the perfect ware, except in appearance; but this is not true. All enameled ware should be made of a firm, unbending material. The slightest bend causes the enamel to crack, and it then chips off. See that stew-pansand other 9, sities utensils in granite-ware or blue and white enam- necessary els are firm and of good weight. Enameled ee oe spoons are not satisfactory, because they are apt ; to bend and crack. For all stirring and beating the wooden spoons are best. When a large, strong spoon is required, well-tinned iron spoons are the most satisfactory. Measur- ing-spoons should be well-plated table-spoons of the usual size. Ironware is most satisfactory for many purposes. The 54 HOME ECONOMICS only objection to it is its weight and the extra work needed to keep it clean. The longer iron is used, the ae smoother and more valuable it becomes. Next a to copper, it is the best material for retaining heat, and for this reason it is well to have a few stew-pans and the soup-kettle of iron. Poreclain- | Porcelain-lined kettles are very good, if properly lined ket- treated; but if abused, the lining soon breaks and Pn the kettle is useless. Copper Copper requires too much care, and is too heavy, utensils. for use in the ordinary household. The yellow earthenware is generally finished very smoothly, and makes excellent mixing-bowls. It is made of a softer paste, and is fired at a lower temperature, than ae the white stone china, and so breaks more easily. ware. Therefore, although the first cost of the white stone china is greater, its durability makes it cheaper in the end. Receptacles for food should be made of a substance that will not harbor insects. Tin, stone, earthenware, and glass Recep- are the best materials for this purpose. Wooden tacles for receptacles should only be used when these other food. . : . materials are too costly or are impracticable. Stoneware and earthenware absorb fats, and tin does not; hence it is best to use tin pails for holding the various Stone- ana Kinds of fats. earthen- Glass jars are excellent for holding small quan- pl a tities of such groceries as are not injured by light, as, for example, rice, currants, raisins, etc. Bread, cake, crackers, and ginger-snaps will retain their crispness and freshness if kept in tin receptacles, while if they are kept in stone jars they will become moist. Taken all in all, tin makes the best receptacles for holding all cereals, dry legumes, sugar, etc. The various receptacles in which these stores are kept should be plainly labeled. FURNISHING 55 Galvanized iron is used for many articles about the house for which a strong material that will not rust is required. Therefore the ash-barrel, garbage-pail, and Tefrig- Galvanized erator-pan should be made of galvanized iron. iron. The refrigerator should be chosen for its simplicity of construction and its sanitary arrangements. When one lives at a great distance from the markets, the re- The refrig- frigerator should be of generous size. Insucha ®rator. case, if the household be large, a small ice-chest for fish is quite desirable. In the list of utensils given, only such articles have been mentioned as would be required by a family living in a moderate way. Of course people who keep a lux- ; urious table will require many things not mentioned ne here, and, on the other hand, people living in a adapted to small way may cut down the list to suit their cir- es cumstances. Whether the mode of living is plain or sumptuous, what has been said of he quality of the uten- sils remains true. How to arrange the covers of the saucepans is always a problem. There is nothing to hang them by, and one rarely has shelf-room enough for them. I have found that a long rack, such as is placed under the Fc ae meat when roasting in the oven, isan excellentcon- pan covers. trivance for holding these covers. Place it in one corner of the shelf, and slip the edges of the covers between the bars, arranging the covers according to size, the largest at one end, and the smallest at the other. This little con- venience economizes both space and time, for a cover can be found or replaced without a moment’s delay. VENTILATION ’ An important duty of the housekeeper in cold weather is to see that the house is properly aired and ventilated. 56 HOME ECONOMICS Every room that is occupied should be thoroughly aired each day. One can keep warmer in a room filled with pure air that has a temperature of 65° than in a room where the temperature is much higher and the air impure. The temperature of the house should not exceed 70°. The rooms and hallways of the main portion of the house should be thrown together as much as possible, thus keeping an equal temperature throughout the house, and insuring a free circulation of air. If there is a window in the upper hall, or in a room opening off the hall, which may be kept slightly open, it will help keep the air of the house pure. The hot air that comes from the Method of LUrnace supplies the house, to a certain extent, obtaininga with fresh air. If the house is heated by steam ean or hot water, this supply is lacking, and there is greater need of some openings that will admit pure air. A piece of board about two or three inches wide, and as long as the window is broad, may be placed under the lower sash of one or two windows, as, for example, the hall windows. This will give access to fresh air without making a draft, and is a good arrangement for bedroom windows in extremely cold weather. There are patent ventilators that fit under the sash in this manner, which are very satisfactory. They are in the form of a narrow box, one side of which has a number of small openings, the top being covered with fine wire netting. There are slides that may be drawn over this netting when one wishes to exclude all or part of the air. These boxes are placed under the sash, with the openings on the outside. Many people cannot sleep with the windows open at night or in damp weather. A screen which will admit pure air, Screen for and yet keep out the dampness, should be provided ee for such cases, and may be made in this manner: * Fasten thin Angora flannel to a frame similar to those used for mosquito nettings. This may be placed in the Tempera. ture. FURNISHING 57 window at night, after the sash is raised. In the morning you will find the inside of the screen dry, while the outside will be covered with moisture, showing that dampness was kept out of the room at the same time that fresh air was admitted. There are a few things that one should keep in mind in order that the ventilation of the house may be done intelli- gently. . All gases and moisture expand and rise as they oa are heated. for intelli- s gent ven- All gases and moisture contract and have a tilation. tendency to fall as they are chilled. Some of the gases are at the ordinary temperature lighter than air, while others are heavier. Carbonic-acid gas (car- bon dioxid) is about one and one half times as heavy as air. Remsen says: “Pure air may be defined as air which con- sists of nitrogen, oxygen, and carbon dioxid in the propor- tions stated above” (about ¢ nitrogen, + oxygen, a and zose0 carbon dioxid), “together with some Gasur water-vapor, ammonia, ozone, and hydrogen dioxid, and nothing of an injurious nature.” It is evident from what has been said that there is constant danger of con- tamination from natural causes. The most common cause of contamination is the breathing of human Danger of . ; contamina- beings in rooms which are inadequately supplied tion. with air. The breathing process involves the using up of oxygen and the giving off of carbon dioxid and small quantities of organic matter which is undergoing decomposi- tion. If thequantity of oxygen is reduced belowacertain limit the air becomes unfit for breathing purposes, and evil effects follow. An ordinary inhalation will not then be sufficient to supply the blood with the oxygen necessary to purify it, and the system will begin to suffer. Headache, drowsiness, and a general sense of discomfort follow. The ill effects of breathing the air of a badly ventilated room occupied by a 58 HOME ECONOMICS number of human beings are, however, due for the most part to the presence of the small quantities of decomposing organic matters which are given off from the lungs Symptom with the carbon dioxid and the gases. These act low the as poisons. They have been thrown off from the ee lungs because they are unfit for use, and when air. they are taken back again the normal processes of the body are interfered with. The subject of ventilation has been so thoroughly discussed of late years that great improvement has been made in the arrangements for supplying pure air to dwelling-apartments and audience- halls; but there is still room for improvement. Fortunately, in most buildings there is one source of supply of pure air which is independent of the architect’s plans. This is the diffusion of gases through the porous materials of which the buildings are constructed. There is also a good deal of ventilation through the cracks and other apertures which are always to be found in our buildings. Under some conditions which are not thoroughly under- stood the air becomes badly contaminated by the decomposi- : tion of animal and vegetable matter. Air thus Air when : a . contami. contaminated may cause specific diseases, and nated some of these are spoken of as being caused by causes dis malaria, a word which signifies simply bad air. “What it is in this bad air which causes these diseases has not yet been determined; but it seems probable, from researches on other diseases, that there are in the air microscopic germs which have the power to develop in the body and then to cause the symptoms which are referred to as malaria. Germs of one kind and another are undoubtedly present in great variety, and they play important parts in connection with the life and health of man, and also in the destruction of plants and animals in which life has become extinct.” In ventilating a room the temperature must be taken into FURNISHING 59 consideration. Whether a room is warm or cold, it is always safe and well tohave a window opened at thetop. If the room is very warm this is absolutely necessary, ae because the heated air rises. If the room is cold sidered in all the carbon dioxid does not rise; therefore there Ventilat should be an opening in the lower part of the room for the escape of the gas and the admission of fresh air. In sleeping-rooms, which usually are cool, the lower part of a window should be opened, and the top also Ew ts should be let down. If in summer the windows ventilate are provided with a netting, it is a good arrange- *leeping- ment to have the entire window covered; then the aoe sash may be raised and lowered at will. The kitchen windows should be protected in the same manner. At all seasons of the year, while work is going on in kitchen and laundry, the windows should be let ioe ices down from the top. By this precaution, not only ¢¢ ictehen, is the air of these rooms kept pure and sweet, but odors are prevented from getting into other parts of the house. The entire house should have a thorough airing every morning. In this general airing the health and comfort of the various members of the household oe must be taken into consideration. Nooneshould ventilated be exposed to a draft or chill. There is little dan- org ger in this to the healthy person who is moving ly. briskly about, but with the weak and delicate it is another matter. Some rooms, therefore, must be kept warm while the rest of the house is undergoing the airing. The following plan for the daily airing of the house might be observed. lee oe 1. The first thing in the morning, open the win- airing. dows in the lower hall, sitting-room, and dining- room. In winter this should be done for a few minutes only. 2. As soon as the sleeping-rooms are vacated, open the windows, take the coverings from the bed, one piece at a 60 HOME ECONOMICS time, and spread them about the room where they will get the full effect of a current of air. Beat the pillows and place them near the windows. Turn the mattress over the foot of the bed, that the air may circulate all around it. 3. The sleeping-rooms should air for at least an hour even in the coldest weather. 4, Open windows in the upper and lower halls, and also open the outside door, if it is safe to do so. After break- pesos fast air the dining-room, which should also have tagesofa 2 thorough airing after each meal. Air the other generous parts of the house as the comfort and convenience sweep of of the family will permit. through- It should be remembered that a great volume ee of pure air sweeping through the house will in ten minutes remove the impure air more effectually than airing for an hour or more with windows only partly opened and doors closed. A knowledge of the nature and action of oxygen is essen- tial to an intelligent understanding of the value and necessity of pure air in our homes and elsewhere. Any good book on chemistry will explain this so clearly that any one even with- out a knowledge of chemistry can comprehend it readily. CHAPTER IV DAILY ROUTINE OF HOUSEHOLD WORK General directions for sweeping and dusting. To clean matting. How to wash windows. Cleaning copper and brasses. How to clean painted woodwork. Care of window-sashes. Care of dining-room. Care of ta- bleware. Care of kitchen and pantries. Care of the floors. Care of kitchen utensils. Tinware. Woodenware. The tea kettle. Tea-pots and coffee-pots. Care of the refrigerator. The sink. To clean an iron sink. Care of cellar. Household refuse. Care of the plumbing. The household machinery should be kept in such order that no member of the family shall be uncomfortably conscious ofits working. The daily attention to the little duties which, small in themselves, in the aggregate take much time and thought, is what keeps the machinery working smoothly. Here the stitch in time which saves nine is fully demonstrated. Method and order are two most important fac- _ tors in the management of the household. A place nee for everything, and everything inits place, isarule factors. the strict observance of which will insure order. If the work of the household is systematized, each day will see its allotted tasks accomplished and the work of the fol- lowing day unhampered. It is only in this way wy, that the household machinery can be run without should be friction. eee Each member of the family is a part of the work- ing machinery, and it is important that each one should per- 61 62 HOME ECONOMICS form his or her part cheerfully and promptly. It is no kind- ness to child or adult to let him shirk his duties. Life is made up of little things, and they form the character. Perhaps no two housekeepers follow the same plan in the daily routine of the household work. The mode of living, individual ideas as to the best system, etc., govern every housekeeper. For the benefit of the inexperienced, a simple outline of the daily program is given as a suggestion. As the method of doing the work is described in separate sections, ag the general outline is all that is necessary here. inexperi- 1. Make the fires, and air the dining-room and poped hall. ouse= keeper. 2. Prepare the breakfast and set the table. , 3. Put the bedrooms to air while the family is at breakfast. 4. Remove the breakfast-dishes; put away the food. Sort the dishes and put to soak all dishes and utensils that have had food in them which would be likely to stick. 5. Put dining-room and sitting-room in order, airing them well. 6. Wash the dishes, and put the kitchen and pantries in order. Prepare dishes that require slow cooking, and put them to cook. 7. Make the beds and put sleeping-rooms and bath-room in order. 8. Trim the lamps. 9. Dust halls and stairs; sweep piazzas and sidewalk. Make the 10. Do the special work of the day. work light On washing and ironing days make the general a work as light and simple as possible, unless a regular laundress is employed. If each member of the family will do something to lighten the labor of the maids, and the meals are simple and hot, the work will go on smoothly. DAILY ROUTINE OF HOUSEHOLD WORK 63 GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR SWEEPING AND DUSTING When cleaning is to be done, it will pay to take ample time for doing it well. A house may be made to look clean and orderly when in fact it is quite the reverse. eke tine A room with a polished floor may be kept per- to clean fectly clean all the year round with half the trouble woh that one has to expend where floors are carpeted. ‘ Everything possible should be taken out of a carpeted room, first brushing and dusting each piece thoroughly. Cover the heavy pieces of furniture with cloths kept for this purpose. Then dust the pictures, using a soft feather duster for the frames, and a coarse brush for the backs. Cover all the pictures, mirrors, clocks, re etc., with pieces of coarse unbleached cotton. (It sweeping. will be a great convenience if a number of these cloths are kept for covering all the furniture and ornaments that cannot easily be moved.) Close the doors and open the windows. It is sometimes a good plan to scatter damp paper or damp bran over acarpet that has become more than ordinarily dusty; then begin to sweep, holding the broom almost perpendicular and taking short strokes. Sweep Tanne in one general direction, then take up the dirt. Brush the dust from every part of the frames and ledges of windows and doors, using a medium-sized brush, such as a paint-brush, for the moldings and corners, and finish with a soft cloth. Cheese-cloth makes a good duster. . Cover the broom with a clean piece of flannel or sane cotton flannel, and brush the ceiling and walls, ceiling. using a downward stroke on the walls. Brush the baseboards. Next, brush the edges and corners of the carpet with a short corn-broom, and sweep the carpet a second time. While the dust is settling, wash the windows. When the 64 HOME ECONOMICS windows are finished, take the cloths off the furniture and pictures, and dust the room. Wipe spots from the paint and woodwork. The carpet should then be wiped over Windows, with a clean cloth wrung out of ammonia and wa- paint, and z woodwork. ter, using two tablespoonfuls of ammonia to four quarts of tepid water. Rinse the cloth frequently ae in this water. of carpet. Put up the hangings and lay the rugs in place; bring back the furniture and ornaments. If the woodwork of any of the furniture needs polishing or oiling, now is the time to do it. If there is a fireplace in the room, all the brass or steel about it should be removed before the room is swept. The Care of grate and fireplace should then be cleaned, and fireplace the hearth properly brushed. It should be washed oe : after the carpet is swept. The brass or steel "must be polished in the kitchen or laundry be- fore it is replaced. If there are registers in the floor, lift them before you begin tosweep. Havea large paper spread on the carpet, and Basa vt brush the registers on this. Wipe the hot-air pipe registers. tO remove all dust. Lay a newspaper over the opening, and place the registers, upside down, over it. The paper is to be removed when the sweeping is finished and the registers are put in place. Rugs and Draperies. —The draperies which were taken down when the room was being prepared for sweeping should be well shaken in the open air, and, if possible, hung on lines out of doors. Brush heavy material, like velvet, plush, brocade, etc. The rugs should be laid face downward on the grass, or on a smooth wooden surface, and beaten with a ratan. Then they must be turned face upward and brushed. Hang them on the line to air. If there is no grass or plain surface on which to beat the rugs, hang them on the line at once, shake out the loose dust, and beat with the ratan. DAILY ROUTINE OF HOUSEHOLD WoRK 66 It is a bad habit to hold the rug at one end and shake it. The weight of the rug loosens the threads at the upper end; hence the raveling near the borders. Furniture.— Upholstered furniture should be dusted with a brush, and wiped with an old silk duster. The woodwork must be rubbed with asoft cloth. If there is carving on the woodwork, it should be dusted with a brush. When the woodwork of the furniture requires polishing, wipe it with a soft sponge, or cloth, which has been wrung out of tepid water or warm milk. Wipe dry, and then polish with encaustic No. 1, or simply oil with the turpentine and oil. Apply the polish with a soft cloth, using a circular mo- tion. The cloth should be only slightly moistened with the mixture. Polish with a soft cloth, rubbing with the grain of the wood. All stains must be removed from the wood be- fore it is polished. Leather Furniture.— Dust the furniture carefully, and wash the leather with a soft cloth wrung out of hot milk, rubbing until dry; then polish with encaustic No. 1, putting the pol- ish on lightly. Polish with a soft cloth; if the leather is dark, it may be polished with oil and turpentine. Marble, Tiles, ete.—Marble is easily destroyed, and most of the injuries it receives are difficult to repair. Acids dissolve marble readily; the stronger the acid, the more rapid its action. The smooth, fine finish given to mar- ble is not only for beauty, but also for protection. If this finish is destroyed, the rough surface is more easily soiled and stained. Even the mildest acid marble. will remove the polish. A piece of lemon left on a basin, mantel-shelf, or table for even a few moments will roughen the surface of the marble. As all acids are neutralized by an alkali, the latter should be immediately poured on the marble when an acid To neutra- has been spilled on it. There are so many alkalis earn t at hand in nearly every household—ammonia, soda, _ marble. 5 66 HOME ECONOMICS borax, for example—that this is not difficult to do. If the acid has remained long enough on the marble to dissolve the surface, the finish may be restored in a measure by rubbing the rough spot with pumice-stone and water. A generous bed of the pumice-stone should be spread on the injured place; this should then be wet with water and rubbed with a large, flat stone. It takes a great deal of pressure and much rubbing to get a smooth surface again. The work might be done from time to time, say for twenty minutes or half an hour every day, until the polish returns. Stains on marble are often difficult to remedy, Difficulty because the agent used to remove the stain might ofremov- | ~. . ing stains. injure the marble. Acids must, of course, be avoided, but alkalis may be used with safety. Oil- or grease-spots, when of recent occurrence, may be removed by absorption and neutralization. Fullers’ earth and ane French chalk are two of the best agents for absorb- silo sare ing grease. Caustic soda or lye will saponify it with full- and so neutralize it. It is often expedient to com- ae bine these two methods. If grease is spilled on marble, make a strong, hot solution of sal-soda, and add enough fullers’ earth to make a thin paste; spread this on the spot, and let it remain for twenty-four hours. If the stain has not fully disappeared at the end of that time, repeat the application. Wood-ashes may also be applied to grease-spots with suc- cess. Boil water and wood-ashes together for half an hour, and add enough whiting to make a thick paste. Spread this on the stain as directed for fullers’ earth. The ordinary care of marble is simple enough. It should be washed with a soft cloth and soap and water. If it is very much soiled, it may be cleaned with any one of the sand soaps or pumice-stone and soap. If the marble lacks luster after this treatment, polish it with encaustic No. 1 or No. 2. Tiles are cleaned and polished in the same manner. DAILY ROUTINE OF HOUSEHOLD WORK 67 TO CLEAN MATTING In the care of matting, it must be remembered that the less water used on it the better, and that all alkalis and soaps tend to discolor it. Have a care that nothing that will soil the mat- Substances ting is dropped or spilled on it. tomatitng: Sweep the matting with a soft brush, and then go over it with a damp cloth to remove all dust. If there are soiled spots, try to remove them by rubbing with a cloth wrung out of hot water. If grease or oil has been spilled, make a thin paste with fullers’ earth and cold water, and spread thickly ,, ante on the spot. When this dries lay a paper over it, grease or and let it stand two or three days. Brush off the oil from dry earth, and the stain will have disappeared. Should water be spilled on a matting, wipe it as 9, remove dry as possible, and let the windows stand open moisture until the matting is dry; or, if the weather is too Pomme: cold or damp for this, dry the matting by apply- . ing heat. Lay a dry cloth over the wet place, and go over it with a hot flat-iron until all moisture is removed. HOW TO WASH WINDOWS Remove all dust from the windows, both inside and out- side. If the woodwork requires cleaning, do this before the glass is washed. Use a wooden skewer and a cloth to re- move dust from corners and grooves. The glass may be washed with clear water, water weterials in which has been put a little liquid ammonia, soda, _ forthe or soap, or it may be cleaned, like paint, with ee of su: : . . OWS. whiting. The essential thing is to get a clean, perfectly polished glass. 68 HOME ECONOMICS Have plenty of clean, soft cloths and some soft paper; crumpled newspapers answer very well. Have a pail of tepid water. Dip the washing-cloth in this and then squeeze al- most dry. Rub the glass with the damp cloth, rinsing it fre- quently. After all the dirt has been removed in this manner, rub dry with a clean, soft cloth, and then polish with soft paper. Be careful to get all the corners clean. If the glass is cleaned with whiting, make a thin cream of water and whiting. Dip a clean cloth in this, and polish the glass as you would silver. Rub off the whiting with soft paper, and polish with clean soft paper. The whiting may be wet with dilute alcohol or household ammonia. This mixture cleans the glass quickly. Sencatut The secret of cleaning windows satisfactorily is successin to have the cloths clean, to use plenty of them, cleaning and not to use water so freely that it drips from windows. pane or sash. CLEANING COPPER AND BRASSES There are so many excellent preparations on the market for cleaning copper and brasses that it is not necessary to make the polishes at home for this purpose. At the same time, it is well to know how various substances affect these metals, and why we use them. Acids clean copper and brasses readily; but unless all traces of them are immediately removed, the metal will tar- Effects of "ish quickly. Whenever the simple acids, or acids acids on and salt, are used, they must be washed off at ee once with pure water. If the articles so cleaned are boilers, andirons, ornaments, etc., the clean-, ing should be followed by a rubbing with rottenstone or tripoli and oil. After a thorough treatment of this kind, brasses and copper articles will remain untarnished for a long time. If a cleaning preparation contains an acid,— DAILY ROUTINE OF HOUSEHOLD WORK 69 and nearly all the preparations on the market do,—the clean- ing should be followed by an application of whiting, which will neutralize the acid and preserve the surface from tarnishing. Cleaning preparations that contain naphtha or an acid ac- complish the work much more quickly than when oil and rottenstone only are used. Brasses cleaned with oil and rottenstone alone, tina bp or with tripoli, will have a soft, rich yellow tone. different When acids and naphtha are used, the color is Pihat* whiter and, of course, less rich. Bearing all these points in mind, one may select _ Selection the cleaning substance that will give the result cleaning aimed at, be that the durability of the work, the quickness with which it may be accomplished, or the color desired. To Clean with an Acid and Salt.—Wash thoroughly the article which is to be cleaned. Mix common salt and oxalic acid or vinegar in a saucer. Dip a soft cloth in Cleaning this, and rub the surface until all tarnish is re- withoxalic moved. Wash the article in plenty of water, and ee then wipe perfectly dry. This method is fre- ‘ quently used in cleaning cooking utensils, in which case the greatest care must be taken to wash the saucepan, etc., thoroughly after the treatment. Brasses or copper that are very much tarnished may be washed in a solution of sal-soda to remove all grease, then rubbed with acid, either oxalic acid, lemon-juice, 9, gtean or strong vinegar, and washed thoroughly, wiping with sal- dry. Polish with rottenstone or tripoli and sweet- ae oil, using a woolen cloth, and rubbing hard. Wipe ow) off the oil and scouring mixture, and go over the surface with a dry flannel and dry tripoli or rottenstone; finish with a soft, clean cloth. If the article has not a thick coat of tarnish, the washing with soda or acid may be omitted; but it is important that the surface be cleaned from all grease, 70 HOME ECONOMICS The above method should be followed when any of the cleaning preparations found in the market are employed, ex- cept that whiting should be substituted for tripoli, oil, or rot- tenstone in the final polishing. Brasses and copper articles retain their brightness, after they have been properly cleaned, a long time when kept in a dry atmosphere; but when exposed to dampness they tarnish quickly. HOW TO CLEAN PAINTED WOODWORK Painted and varnished surfaces should be treated with great consideration. It is possible in a few minutes to do Chemicals 20 amount of damage that cannot be repaired in shouldbe days. ‘The careless use of chemicals on these fin- sas ishes causes the greater part of the trouble. If ; we can but fix in our minds the effect some chem- icals have on certain materials, it will help us to use them more intelligently. Paint is softened by wet alkalis; when the solution is strong enough it dissolves the paint. The alkalis most commonly used in the household are ammonia, sal-soda, potash, and borax. The most caustic of Howto these alkalis are potash and sal-soda; the least test the caustic is borax. If we take a board which has effects of been painted or varnished, and put a few drops "each of a solution of soda, potash, ammonia, and borax on different parts, we can see how each affects the paint; the stronger the solution of any of them, of course the more quickly it will soften the paint. The same kind of a test might be made with a varnished surface. 7 ae If we now repeat the experiment on new spots, added to 20d almost as soon as the liquids have been alkaline dropped on the painted or varnished surface we ee add a few drops of oil, stirring it well, we will find lie, that the paint or varnish is only slightly dam- DAILY ROUTINE OF HOUSEHOLD WORK 71 aged. The oil neutralized the power of the alkalis, and the injury done to the paint or varnish was the work of the few moments before the oil was added. If, however, the oil was applied in too small a quantity to wholly neutralize the alkali, the latter would continue its destructive work, but very slowly and feebly. If a large quantity of the oil is added instantly when the alkaline solution is dropped on the board, the effect upon the finish will be scarcely perceptible. We have learned from this simple experiment: 1. That paints and varnishes may be dissolved by the alkalis in common use in the household, and that the stronger the solution, the more rapidly it acts. 2. That the destructive action of the alkali ee may be arrested by the application of any oily from these substance. ea Sed If there is not enough oil to wholly neutralize the alkali, the action will go on feebly; but if there is enough oil, or an excess of it, all destructive action is arrested. Putting this knowledge to a practical use, we have been taught that no strong alkali should be put on painted or var- nished surfaces; that no strong caustic Soaps yy case of should be used on paint or varnish; that in case analkaline of accident where an alkali is spilled on a painted ee or varnished surface, some sort of oil or fat spilled on should be instantly poured on the spot. Gener- se ally the oil nearest at hand is salad-oil, and this surface add is such a pure oil that it is excellent for such a a ei purpose. v In cleaning painted or varnished surfaces we 4. sa use should keep in mind what we have learned in of strong these experiments, and avoid the use of alkalis SP of and strong soaps. When the paint is to be cleaned, have the room thoroughly swept and dusted, walls, ceiling, grooves, and ledges. Use a painter’s brush to remove the dust from the grooves and 72 HOME ECONOMICS corners. Mix some whiting and cold water to the consistency of thick cream. Three woolen cloths and some soft white Howto Cotton cloths will be necessary. There should also cleanpaint be two pails, each half filled with hot water, and autos a small wooden skewer such as butchers use. Put "a woolen cloth in each pail of water, and keep the third one dry. Press nearly all the water from one of the cloths, dip it in the whiting mixture, and begin cleaning the paint. Rub hard, with an upward and downward stroke, when plain walls are being cleaned; in woodwork, follow the slight grain left by the painter’s brush. Next, carefully wash off all the whiting, using the water and cloth in the second pail; then wring the cloth dry, and wipe the surface with this. Now rub dry with the dry woolen or cotton cloth. This final rubbing gives a smooth finish to the paint that not only improves its appearance, but tends to keep it clean much longer than if the surface were left half dried. All the grooves and corners should be cleaned with a bit of the cloth on the point of the wooden skewer. Begin at the top and work downward, washing a space about a yard square. Never use water enough to have it ; run on the wall in little streams; this leaves a Avoid us- streaked surface. ing too oe much wa- If the paint is very smoky or oily, a tablespoon- ete tan ful of household ammonia may be added to eac streaks. gallon of water. . Should soap be preferred to the whiting, make suds with it; but do not rub soap on the cloth, except in cases where the suds will not remove the dirt. Enamel finishes require different treatment from ordinary paint. They are finished, like fine varnishes, by being rubbed down with water and tripoli. Rien Wipe off all the dust, and then wipe with a clean of enamel Woolen cloth wrung as dry as possible in hot water. finishes. Rub dry witha second woolen or cotton cloth. The DAILY ROUTINE OF HOUSEHOLD WORK 73 dry rubbing is important, as it gives the surface brilliancy. Should there be soiled places which the damp cloth will not clean, put a little wet powdered tripoli on a small piece of flannel, and rub gently until the stain has entirely disap- peared. Be careful not to use so much pressure that the powder will cut through the varnish. Polish with the dry cloth. Should you not have the tripoli, powdered pumice- stone will answer. Care of Natural-Wood Finish.—To have the interior of the house finished in the natural wood is a great boon to the housekeeper, provided she takes proper care of it. One should avoid using water on these woods as much as possible. Oil and turpentine or alcohol is the best substance with which to treat them, as it preserves the finish and the wood. When any place on the wood becomes very much soiled, it may be cleaned by rubbing with a woolen cloth wet with turpentine or kerosene. The turpentine removes the gloss, and should be followed with oil. A little tripoli can be moistened with oil and the spot cleaned with this. Once a year go over the woodwork with a mixture of paraffin-oil and tur- Ries . . « ore pentine, using equal parts of the oil and tur- ary or pentine, unless the finish looks dry and cracked, stacked in which case rub in the pure oil. On dark : wood, when the finish has this dry, cracked, or faded look, the boiled linseed-oil is better than the paraffin-oil. The oil should be thoroughly rubbed in, and if one application does not bring back the color and finish, apply about once in two weeks until the surface is restored. It is only when the finished surface is exposed to heat, sun, or moisture that these conditions are likely to appear, as, for exam- : 7 : Care of out- ple, the woodwork near steam-pipes, registers, win- giao doors, dows, sinks, or in bath-rooms, etc. The frequent application of oil, well rubbed in, will keep such exposed places in good condition. Outside doors should be oiled with pure boiled linseed-oil several times each year, 74 HOME ECONOMICS When the regular yearly cleaning is being done, have the woodwork of the room brushed and wiped free from every particle of dust. Moisten a woolen cloth with ee the mixture of oil and turpentine, and rub the woodwork. wood finish. Follow this with a dry woolen cloth, rubbing hard to give a polish. If the odor of turpentine is objectionable, and expense is not a serious question, wood-alcohol may be substituted for the turpentine. If there are any bruised or scratched places on the wood- work, restore the color and finish before oiling. (See “To Restore Color and Finish to Woods.”) CARE OF WINDOW-SASHES Window-sashes that are finished in oil or varnish require special care. They are often exposed to the heat of the sun and to moisture caused by steam condensing on the cold ‘ glass or the melting of frost in winter, etc. The tary? heat of the sun draws the oil from the finish, and sashes various other conditions combine to destroy the pau ty finish on this part of the woodwork sooner than moisture. that in any other part of the room. If the wood is kept well oiled all this damage can be avoided. Have a little boiled linseed-oil in a shallow cup. Make a small soft pad, and dip it in the oil. Rub this on the sash, being careful not to get any on the glass, as it Treatment takes time to remove it. Be generous to the part sashes. Where the top and bottom sashes meet, as this is the place that receives the greatest proportion of sun and moisture. This oiling might be done once a month. When the sashes have been neglected and they have be- come rough and dry, rub them smooth with sandpaper, oil with boiled linseed-oil, and then put on a finish as directed in “To Restore Color and Finish to Woods.” DAILY ROUTINE OF HOUSEHOLD WORK 75 CARE OF DINING-ROOM The dining-room should be kept in perfect order, and it should be clean and free from odors. There are reasons for and against a carpet in this room. Woolen car- Objection to pets absorb odors, and, if anything happens to be carpet in spilled on them, are more difficult to clean than ‘ining- is the bare floor, or a rug which may be carried out oa and aired with ease. On the other hand, noiseless service is more difficult on the polished floor, and there is danger of accidents from slipping. Two or three breadths of fine Jap- anese matting, sewed together to make a square, and the ends bound, make a very satisfactory rug for the center of the dining-room. Whether the floor is carpeted : or polished, it should be brushed each morning. len The room must be thoroughly aired and dusted should be each day. Once a week there should be a thor- “iad and ough cleaning of this room as directed in “ Gen- eral Rule for Cleaning a Room.” In this general cleaning the closets, sideboards, shelves, etc., should have special care. The table should be rubbed free from spots, and be oiled or waxed, as the case may be. All spots on wood must be wiped ‘off and the windows washed. In addition to the thorough airing in the morning, the dining-room should be aired for a short time after each meal, even in the coldest weather. CARE OF TABLEWARE Silver.—If washed in plenty of soap and hot water and rubbed dry with clean, soft towels each time it is used, the silver will not often require cleaning. To clean the silver, first wash it in hot suds, and wipe it. Cover a table or a large tray with thick paper. Have fine 76 HOME ECONOMICS French whiting which has been sifted. Put a portion of this whiting in a saucer, and wet it with diluted alcohol or am- monia. With a soft cloth apply this mixture and rub on the silver. Spread on the paper to dry. When all is finished rub the whiting off the sil- ver with a soft, clean cloth; then polish with chamois. A soft brush will be required for grooves and chased work. This cleaning with whiting should not be necessary oftener than once a month, except where an article is tarnished by eggs or some such substance, in which case clean with whiting. If the silver tarnishes quickly there must be some gases in the house; therefore gas- pipes and drain-pipes should be inspected. It must be remembered that constant rubbing wears away the silver, and that any substance that will clean a tarnished 5 metal without much friction will probably attack qos the metal also. of silver. Silver should be kept by itself; hard substances, # like steel knives, scratch it. The handles of the knives should not be allowed to go into the dish-pan; they should be held in the dry left hand while the blades are washed with a cloth in the right hand. ere of Spots may be removed and the polished surface ivory-han- restored to ivory handles by rubbing with powdered wiict,, Pumice-stone and water. This means a good deal of hard rubbing, if done by hand. Glass.— There is a great diversity of opinion as to the best methods of washing glass. Cold water answers very well for articles that are not much soiled and have had no oily sub- stance near them. Ammonia or soda in the water cleanses the glass readily and gives a luster. Soapy water also cleans the glass easily. When glass is washed in cold water it should drain until nearly dry. It must then be polished with a clean, soft towel. It is more difficult to wash in cold water, and it takes longer to polish the glass, Method of cleaning. Cause of tarnishing. DAILY ROUTINE OF HOUSEHOLD WORK 77 Glass that has been washed in warm water with either soda, ammonia, or soap should be wiped at once. A soft brush is required for cleaning cut glass. A clean towel should be spread on a tray, and each piece, Care of as it is wiped, should be placed on this. cut glass. This precaution is particularly necessary with dishes that are deeply cut at the bottom. When placed on polished wood the moisture produces a white mark. Fine sawdust is very good for cut glass; it absorbs the Saath moisture from those parts that cannot be reached cut glass. with the cloth. After wiping the glass, bury it in a bed of sawdust, and let it remain half an hour or more. When the glass is removed from the sawdust, brush it with a soft brush, and polish with a soft cloth. A word of caution must be said here. The sawdust should come from a non-resinous wood, such as box or basswood; it must be fine, and free from any hard substance. If saw- dust from pine or any resinous wood is used, the resin will stick to the glass, and it will be found most difficult to remove. The sawdust should be spread out to dry after having been used; in this way it may be employed a number of times. One thing must always be remembered: to scratch glass is to weaken that part, so that a little extra heat or cold, or a slight jar, will cause a break at that point. A grain of sand at the bottom of the dish-pan, or on Danger of the dish-cloth, may make this little scratch which on glass. will split your beautiful dish in twain.. China.—The dishes should be scraped clean, and then rinsed off with clear water. Wash them in soapy water, rinse in clear hot water, and drain and wipe dry. Do not place one dish upon another as they Mustnotbe are wiped. Spread them out to cool off, then aa ie put them together. Piling them together while another. warm is apt to crack the glaze. 78 HOME ECONOMICS Put only a few dishes in the pan at a time. Do not use much soap on gilt china. oo Before beginning to wash dishes, have them all littlesoap sorted and put in groups, keeping those of the on gilt same kind together. or Wash, rinse, and wipe one group before be- ginning another. In wiping dishes the hands should not come in contact with the dish. Hold the dish in the left hand, having the towel How dish Detween hand and dish. Never wipe with a towel ‘ow dish and towel that has become wet. should be _Glass, silver, and china should present a bril- “ant surface when the wiping is finished. This can only be done by washing them very clean, and wiping thoroughly with a soft, clean towel. The towels should be washed, rinsed, and hung out to dry after the dishes are finished. Pewter, Britannia, and block-tinware are often used on the table in the form of tea- and coffee-pots, dish-covers, and Bisaat chafing-dishes. These can be polished with pow- pewter, dered rottenstone and oil, or oil and whiting, or Britannia, jin the same way that silver is polished. and block” Wash the article first in hot soap and water, and wipe dry. Dampen a cloth with sweet-oil, and rub it over the article to be polished. Put rottenstone or whiting on a piece of soft, dry flannel, and rub over the oiled surface. Then polish with dry whiting and chamois. Steel knives are polished with soft soap, Bristol brick, and a large cork. Wash the knives in soap and water, and wipe dry. Have a smooth board on which rests the blade of the knife per- Method of 2eCtly flat. Dip the cork in the soap, then in the ofpolishing powdered brick, and rub the steel until all stains Maal are removed. Then polish off with dry powdered brick, and wipe with a soft cloth. DAILY ROUTINE OF HOUSEHOLD WORK 79 To keep steel from rusting, cover with sweet-oil or mutton tallow, and wrap in soft paper. To remove rust, put oil and quicklime on the To remove rusted article. After several days rub with oil ™ and rottenstone or Bristol brick. CARE OF KITCHEN AND PANTRIES The kitchen and pantries should be well lighted and aired. Nothing that will hold odors, such as woolen car- pets or draperies, should form a part of the fur- nishing of any of these rooms. The woodwork vVentita- should he of natural wood, varnished or oiled, and _ tion, light, the walls should be painted or covered with a he paper that may be washed. The floors in this part of the house are something of a problem. White boards are exceedingly attractive when in good condition, but they require infinite care. A Floors of hard-wood floor, properly oiled, is quite satisfac- kitchen tory; so is a well-painted and -varnished floor. a ee Oil-cloth makes a clean and pleasing covering, , and one that is easily kept clean. I should never advise its use, however, as it is cold for the feet. Linoleum is a most satisfactory floor-covering. It may be cleaned with ease, it is soft, warm, and elastic, and wears well. Tables and shelves, like the floors, when in white wood and kept in good condition are a delight to the eye; but to main- tain them in this state means much work. Painted or varnished shelves are clean, and may be kept so rh with little trouble. A covering of white enameled cloth on the shelves and kitchen tables looks particularly well, and the work of taking care of it is very light. These coverings should be laid on smoothly and held in place with small tacks. Heat destroys the enamel, therefore hot dishes must not be placed directly on these covers. 80 HOME ECONOMICS The daily care of kitchen and pantries consists of sweep- ing and dusting, wiping or washing of shelves, tables, and Daily care floors, and the cleaning of the sink and range, of kitchen etc. ant yen Strong soaps and alkalis should not be used on paint or varnishes. They soften and remove the dirt quickly, but they also soften and remove the paint and varnish. The varnished or oiled woodwork in the kitchen, pantries, back halls, etc., may be kept clean by wiping it with a care of Jannel cloth wrung out of hot water, and then varnished rubbing smooth and dry with a dry cloth. Finger- Ries aac marks may be removed by rubbing them with wet * whiting; the whiting should then be wiped off and the surface wiped dry. Painted walls may be kept clean in the same way. CARE OF THE FLOORS A hard-wood floor, if properly oiled, is quite satisfactory; but if it is badly done it is a constant source of annoyance. Oiledfloors. Le oiling of the floors in the back part of the house, as a general rule, must be done in the even- ing, after the work of the day is finished. This oiling is sometimes done by a member of the family, but quite as often a painter is employed who is accustomed to that kind of work. Whoever does the oiling, there are three things upon which success largely depends: First, there should be no floating dust in the room, and the floor must be absolutely clean. Sec- ond, the oil must be of the right kind and in the proper con- dition. Third, the oil must be rubbed into the boards thor- oughly, so as to leave a perfectly smooth surface. eo Boiled linseed-oil dries more quickly than the linseed-oil, Taw oil. It is well to add a little turpentine, as it will make the oil less sticky. It must be remem- bered that with the oiled floor, as with all surfaces, the more DAILY ROUTINE OF HOUSEHOLD WORK 81 highly polished it is, the longer it will keep clean. There~ fore it should be rubbed with a dry flannel once or twice a week. The daily care of the oiled floor consists of Daily care sweeping it with a hair brush, and, if there are ee any soiled spots, of wiping them off with a flannel cloth wrung out of hot water. If this does not remove all the dirt, a little soap may be rubbed on the cloth. Once a week wipe the floor with a damp cloth, using soap when it is necessary; wipe very dry, and then go all over the floor with a cloth made damp with kerosene or boiled oil and turpentine. This should be rubbed Zoe in thoroughly, and the floor should not be walked a week, on, if it is possible to avoid it, for an hour or more. The windows should be left open, that the odor of the oil may pass off. Cover an old brush with a woolen cloth, and rub the floor; it will take a fine polish. See “Care of Polished Floors,” for method of oiling floors. The painted or varnished floors in the back part of the house are usually ruined with soap and water and scrubbing- brushes. Strong soaps, soda or ammonia, and a scrubbing-brush, in the hands of a vigorous woman, Fainted or 2 varnished will remove the greater part of the paint or var- floors. nish from a floor inashort time. As little water, soap, or alkalis as possible should be used on these surfaces. Sweep the floor, and wipe off the dust with a damp cloth. If this will not remove all the dirt, use a woolen cloth wrung out of hot water. If the spot is very dirty it may be necessary to put a little soap on the cloth. Rub oe hard with the woolen cloth, but never use a scrub- of painted bing-brush. Once a week, after having swept and phe, wiped the floor clean, go over it witha clothdamp- _ficors. ened with one part boiled oil and one part tur- pentine, or kerosene may be used instead. The work of caring for a floor in this manner is much less than when a 6 82 HOME ECONOMICS great deal of water and soap is used; and, moreover, the floor is in a sanitary condition, because the boards are dry and clean. On a farm where milk is abundant the floor may be washed with hot milk and water; it must be wiped perfectly dry after this treatment. Oil-cloth and linoleum may be treated in the same manner as a painted or varnished floor. For cleaning white boards, whether they are in floors or tables, there is nothing better than fine sand and water that is warm but not hot. The boards should be scoured : cits with sand and water, then washed with clear warm and tables, Water, and thoroughly dried. The rubbing should always be in the direction of the grain of the wood. This treatment will keep boards beautifully white. Great care must be taken to wash every particle of sand from the tables, and to see that none gets into the sink or dish-pan. A scratch from a grain of sand might be the trifle that would cause the breakage of a piece of fine glass. oe Grease-spots on tables and floors may be treated spots. in several ways. (See “Stains on Wood.”) Linoleum. CARE OF KITCHEN UTENSILS On the proper care of the kitchen utensils depends to a great degree the healthfulness and success of the cooked food. No matter how many utensils there are, eee or how perfect they may be, unless they are kept thorough- in good condition they will not do satisfactory work. ae ae Asaucepan from which the enamel has beenchipped, utensils, Or Which has been burned black and rough, will spoil the flavor and appearance of any preparation cooked in it; a tin dish which has rusted, or from which the tin has been scratched, will also ruin the flavor and appear- ance of food, and so it is through the whole category. DAILY ROUTINE OF HOUSEHOLD WORK 83 Systematic thoroughness, then, in the care of the kitchen utensils is absolutely necessary for their preservation and for perfection in cooking. With the proper appliances this is _ not a difficult task. Plenty of hot water, soap, and towels, and willing hands are all that are needed to keep these articles in good order. Soiled utensils should not be left standing for the particles of food to harden on them; nor should a pee of knife or spoon be used to scrape off these adher- utensils ing particles; such treatment soon destroys the enamel or plate. Ifa substance clings stubbornly to a dish or stew-pan, use the dish-cloth of wire rings. This cleans quickly, without scratching or otherwise injuring the surface. As soon as each dish or stew-pan is emptied of its contents it should be filled with water; when dish-washing time comes, it will be found that all clinging particles are thoroughly soaked and may be rinsed off before the dishes are put into the pan of hot, soapy water. There should be no stint in towels, soap, and hot water. Towels for silver, glass, and china should be of linen. A loosely woven cheap linen crash makes the best toweling for the cooking utensils. A closely Towelsand woven, stiff towel is most difficult to wash, and cloths. it must be half worn before it will wipe articles dry. There should be long cotton and linen towels in reach for handling hot pots and pans. A good length for these towels is forty-two inches. Then, there should be soft towels for the hands, a mixture of cotton and linen being better than all linen for this purpose. ‘T'wo linen dish- cloths,—which, by the way, should not be used after they have become so worn that they will leave lint on the dishes, —a wire dish-cloth, and a bunch of wooden skewers are in- dispensable. All kitchen utensils should be washed and wiped as care- fully as the dining-room china. 84 HOME ECONOMICS Here is a good rule for the daily care of utensils. We will take it for granted that pots, pans, bowls, etc., were put to soak as soon as they were emptied of their Dear contents. Rinse off all particles of food that care of cling to the utensils. If there are spots where ae the substance has stuck or burned on, rub with the wire dish-cloth until all traces are removed; never scrape with a knife or spoon. When all the dishes are cleaned in this way, fill a dish-pan half full of hot water, well soaped; nearly fill a second pan with clear hot water. Begin by washing the earthenware in the hot suds, rinse in the hot water, drain, and then wipe with clean, dry towels. Follow this method with the tins and granite-ware, then with the ironware, changing the waters, of course, as they become soiled or cool. Wash the outside and bottom of the utensils as carefully as the inside. Any utensil in which frying has been done must be wiped with soft newspaper to remove all the grease before it is put in the water for washing. Use plenty of soap and very hot water when washing greasy cooking utensils. If frying-pans or kettles become rough and dark they can be made smooth and bright by scouring with soap and wood-ashes. Tin and iron should be wiped while still hot. All grooves in cooking utensils may be cleaned with a wooden skewer. In thinking over the care of the kitchen, pantries, utensils, etc., it seems almost more important to speak of the things one should not do, rather than the things one should do; for a great deal of damage can be done in a short time, and the task of repairing it is discouraging and sometimes almost hopeless. Trouware New iron is one of the most difficult materials improves one has to deal with in kitchen utensils; as it with use. grows older, and the surface becomes more smooth with use and proper treatment, it is comparatively easy to keep it in good condition. DAILY ROUTINE OF HOUSEHOLD WORK 85 It should be borne in mind that acids tend to cause rust on iron, while soda and fats make the surface sgpot of smooth and prevent rust. Moisture also causes acids, soda, rust. and fats, The inside of new iron utensils should be coated with fresh mutton tallow and allowed to stand a few days. At the end of that time they should be heated gradually until the fat melts, and then washed in hot water in eee which washing-soda has been dissolved. One gh tablespoonful of the soda should be used with every two quarts of water. A mop should be used for this washing, as the strong solution of soda would injure the hands. Rinse the utensils in hot water, and wipe them dry with a clean, dry, coarse towel, rubbing very hard. If food or cloths are darkened by the utensil after this treat- ment, it should be scoured with soap and sand, after which it will give very little, if any, trouble. The treatment of ironware, after this, is very simple. As soon as the utensil has been emptied, when food has been cooked in it, fill it with water, and let it rest on the back of the range until you are ready to wash it. All particles of food adhering to it will be softened by this means, and may be washed off before the utensil is put in the dish-pan. Have hot soapy water in readiness; put one utensil at a time into the pan, and wash the inside and outside with equal care. When all the saucepans, kettles, etc., have been washed in this manner, rinse them in hot water, drain them, and wipe first with the dish-cloth, and then with a dry crash towel, rub- bing hard. This is the only treatment that will insure a perfect con- dition of iron-*or steelware. Scouring the inside of iron or steel articles with any kind of sand soap or mineral soap makes the surface smooth and bright. Frying-pans, griddles, omelet-pans, etc., may be kept in perfect condition by this means. 86 HOME ECONOMICS TINWARE Wash tinware in hot soapy water, rinse it in clear hot water, and wipe dry with a dry dish-towel. Articles made ; of tin should not be put on the range to dry, as Scouring of they are apt to be darkened or melted by this treatment. When they need cleaning, wash them thoroughly in strong soap-suds, and clean them with whiting or sand soap; then wash, rinse, and wipe dry. Sand should never be used for scouring tins, as it cuts through the soft metal, leaving bare tiny lines of iron that soon make theiz presence known by fine streaks of rust. There are several cleaning-materials that are free from hard, cutting particles which may be safely used on tins, enamels, etc., among others being sifted whiting, kaolin, sifted wood-ashes, that may be taken from the flues under the oven or from the dust-flue in the furnace. There is a soap on the market, which is largely composed of kxolin, that is excellent for cleaning paint, tins, windows, et«., since it removes all dirt without scratching the surface. WOODENWARE Wash all woodenware in hot soapy water, rinse in clear hot water, and wipe with a dry towel. Woodenware may be - put in the sun to dry, but never near the fire, as great dry heat cracks the wood. Pastry-boards, meat-bowls, and other bowls may be scoured as directed for white tables. Wash Wooden bowls in which fat meats and vegeta- wie bles have been chopped sometimes retain the flavor soda to re- and odor of the substance that has been in them. move odor. These may be removed by soaking the bowl in hot soda-water, using one teaspoonful of soda to one quart of water. DAILY ROUTINE OF HOUSEHOLD WORK 87 Utensils in which fish or other food that imparts an odor or flavor has been cooked should be boiled for a short time insoda-water. This canbe done by putting a quart 19 deodor- of water and a small piece of washing-soda, or a_ ize cooking teaspoonful of baking-soda, into the saucepan or mienalla, kettle, and placing it on the range where the water will boil. Wood-ashes are excellent for cleaning and deodorizing iron and tin utensils. Put a gill of wood-ashes and a pint of water in the stew-pan or kettle, and place it on the fire where it will simmer for half an hour. Let the mixture cool partly, then scour the utensil with it, using a coarse cloth, or a coil of grass or hay if one lives in the country and has it at hand. THE TEA-KETTLE The tea-kettle is one of the problems of the kitchen. It is difficult to keep it free from rust. If it could always be emptied and wiped dry when not needed, this might be pre- vented; but hot water is constantly in demand, and the tea- kettle seems to be the place where it should be found. When water cools slowly in a covered vessel, globules of steam gather on the cover, sides, and bottom. Tiny spots of rust will soon appear, which grow as time goes on, until finally the whole interior surface is cov- oe ered. This is what happens in the tea-kettle from day to day. The remedy is to empty the kettle while it is hot, rinse it out, and wipe it dry. In any case, the tea-kettle should be washed out every day; for even clean water will be found to leave a deposit. This washing out had better be done in the evening, err when the work for the day is over; it will insure ces thorough drying, and will do a great deal toward preserving the tea-kettle in good condition. There are tea- kettles that are lined with white enamel, which can easily be kept in good condition. 88 HOME ECONOMICS TEA-POTS AND COFFEE-POTS Tea-pots and coffee-pots require the most thorough clean- ing daily. They should be freed from grounds or leaves, rinsed in cold water, and washed with clear hot water. They should then be scalded with boiling water, wiped dry, and placed where they may be thoroughly aired. CARE OF THE REFRIGERATOR The refrigerator is nearly always on the same floor with the kitchen. It should be placed where it may be well lighted and aired, and on no consideration should the Situation, waste-pipe of the refrigerator be connected with the drain-pipe of the house.