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ALBERT R. MANN
LIBRARY

New York STATE COLLEGES. - ~
OF"
AGRICULTURE AND HomE EcoNomIcs

 

AT

CoRNELL UNIVERSITY

 

 

 

 
Cornell Universi
SB 471.E4

Hand book of practica

iT ;
 

 

MEU LA ALBel-- Var. Pendula Laciniata.
(Cil Lecdvred Weepthg Bire/.,)
 

HAND BOOK

OF PRACTICAL

LANDSCAPE GARDENING

DESIGNED FOR

CITY AND SUBURBAN RESIDENCES,

AND COUNTRY SCHOOL-HOUSES,

a

CONTAINING

DESIGNS FOR. LOTS AND GROUNDS,

From a lot 30 x 100 feet to a 40 acre plot.

Each plan ts drawn to a scale, with schedule to each, showing where each Tree,
e Shrub, etc., should be planted. Also, Condensed Instructions of how to form
Lawns, and the care thereof; the Building of Roads, Turfing,
Protection of Trees, Pruning and care of, making Cuttings,
Evergreens, Hedges, Screens, etc. ; Perennials, Herbaceous
Plants, etc. Also, Condensed Descriptions of all the
leading Trees and Shrubs, with remarks as to soit
and position in which they should be grown.
Iltustrations not only of the Ground Plans
and Hlevations wre given, but Illustra-
tions of various Trees, Shrubs,
Winter Gardening, ete.

BY F. R. ELLIOTT,

LANDSCAPE GARDENER AND POMOLOGIST.

 

D. M. DEWEY,
HORTICULTURAL Books, ARCADE Hai, RocHEsSTER, N. Yi:
18977.

 

 

 
 

6 bai
E 46

Cye NS 7
=

‘Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1877,
By D. M. DEWEY,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

 

 

 

CO. A. STUMP &: CO., PRINTERS,
Reynolds’ Arcade, Rochester.

 

 

 
 

 

PREFACE

 

In the preparation of this work we have aimed at no esthetical
ideas ; but believing that the people, as a whole, need some practical
guide for the improvement and decoration of their home grounds, we
have endeavored to make practical plans to a scale, and from which
we think any man of ordinary intelligence can plant, according to the
plan and schedule of varieties.

Since the labors of the lamented and talented A. J. Downinc,
great taste and desires for, and in the improvement of grounds aroun
our homes, has been developed. The practical utility, as well as
financial value of rural improvements is now fully understood ; and
all careful observers of the values of real estate concede that one per
cent of value employed in decorating a rural home with appropriate
walks and roads; with shade trees, shrubs and flowering plants
judiciously arranged in the planting, will add forty per cent. to the
value of the same when negiected. It is with this knowledge of the
subject that we now present our work.

It is well known that a small cottage, with trees and flowering
shrubs judiciously planted, is worth double the value of a two-story
brick house, without any shade decorations around it. There are
many who. reside in these pleasant cottages around our country, that
have more of real enjoyment than the man with a palace of $50,000
to $80,000.

There have been many elaborate works and well-designed plans,
even going back one hundred years, -but none-of them have been
adapted to the use of a plain, common-sense man, who can by
measure, work to a scaled plan. The majority of the books on

Landscape Gardening.’’ have, according to our knowledge, been

 

 
 

 

. ef

iv ’ PREFACE.

 

made more for show, and as guides or exciting impulses to the man’
of wealth intellectually ; but when the work has to be performed, a
competent landscape gardener has to be employed.

In this work not only are our plans made to a scale, but each tree
to be planted is designated by numbers. Again, in each plan we
have given a ground plan design for a house and barn. The chapter
on school-houses we hope will meet approval; and we thoughtfully
hope and think that whoever looks over our work will give us credit, . ©
at least for trying to do good.

As a landscape gardener of forty years’ practice, we feel like

assuring those who follow our plans, that they will never regret the
"act. F.R. E,

 

 
 

 

RURAL HOME ADORNMENTS.

 

The value of everything that approaches the beautiful, is
enhanced by an appropriate setting. Even the most beautiful
flower of nature is improved by its surrounding of delicately
tinted green foliage. The artist, when exhibiting his most
perfect artificial representation of nature, places it, if possible,
with a surrounding which will measureably attract the eye, and
yet cast upon the picture an enhanced breadth and height of
coloring, combined with the softness which Nature in her hazy
moods gives to all her productions.

Woman in all her beauty is rendered even more attractive in
a setting of appropriate colors and forms of dress; and woe be
to the taste of a blonde who, robing herself in light blue, seeks
to decorate for relief with coral ornaments. The opaque red, to
use a common phrase, would be “dreadful”; while the use of a
pale pink would light up and dispel the pallid moonshine of the
blue, and give to all arich, pearly, hazy, rosy hue, as of early
morn.

These lights and shades being well understood in our
artificial “role,” it would appear that in the more permanent —
matters of life, such as the decorations of our daily homes, they
should have control; yet we too frequently find a mansion
residence constructed after the best taste and truest principles of
architecture, with its surrounding fitting as inappropriate as a
bright yellow would be for a lady’s walking dress.

Or tHe Fine ARTS IN GENERAL AND LANDSCAPE
GARDENING IN PARTICULAR.

There are many amateurs whose minds are open to conviction
and inclined to truth, but whose powers of observation are
not sufficient to enable them to discover what is right and
appropriate, until it is pointed out to them.

 

 
 

6 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

The art of composition embraced in Landscape Gardening _
has certain principles which go towards forming a unity of the
whole, and from which no deviation can be made without
marring the result. Taste may be possessed in a greater or less
degree; but without reference to principles it will fail to create
a design of harmonious proportion or association. It is to be
regretted that so little attention is given to the subject of
principle and arrangement of tree, shrub, flower and path, as a
whole in the decoration of our homes. Thousands on thousands
of dollars are yearly expended in the creation of new places
that have to be again remodeled because of apparent want, when
' completed, of congeniality and harmony necessary to an effective
whole.

It is not expected that every man will or can be a land-
seapist, any more than he can be a lawyer or physician ; but he
should have sufficient love for his own home to induce him to
study the principles of the art, so as to be able to appreciate the
reasons for arrangements of designs submitted by a landscape
artist. A spirit of independence, a pride and love for the
creation of one’s own, should imbue every citizen to the improve-
ment by judicious planting of his home grounds. Were this the
condition of things, the rapidity and beauty of new home
surroundings would be greatly enhanced, and many grounds
that now receive frequent remodeling would exhibit most
gratifying results within a.period of five to six years from first
planting.

It may be pleasant to pass through an apprenticeship of
learning by practice the character of tree and plant, the requisite
breadth of lawn or road to give the best effect, or to arrange
them in one harmonious whole, but it consumes years of time
and is a knowledge which may be bought and made applicable
whenever the purchaser has his ground ready for its practice.
These prefatory remarks are as cautionary against one of, the
most common errors in ornamental gardening, viz: That of
mixing herbaceous flowers with shrubs and trees, by which
neither can thrive properly ; ; or if they do, the effect of the one

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 7

 

is injured by that of the other. However pleasing and

' picturesque it may be to see trees, shrubs and flowers all striving
together for the mastery in a natural wood, yet this sort of
beauty is totally unsuited to scencs of art; and however much
the owner may desire to see and study every tree, shrub and
flower, it is better to plant the surplus in a reserve border in
some part of the rear garden, than to destroy unity and effect by
a crowding of varieties incongruously together. Another error
common to small gardens is the want of some leading feature of
special interest, such as the creating of a flower-garden proper, a
fountain, or rockery ; the two last named are the most difficult,
and require a tasteful, experienced landscape artist to execute
them so that they remain permanent and beautiful ornaments,
harmonizing with the surrounding grounds.

The flower garden proper, as well as the floral beds, are
readily constructed and within the power of all. More or less
of these should be placed near the house so that more or less of
views from the windows of the house will look down upon them.
Various patterns for the arrangement of the beds and paths are
found in all works on landscape gardening, but in copying them
thought should be taken as to their adaptation to the position or
form of boundary in which they are to be placed. In most of
the plans in this work we have given specific designation of
what and where to plant. We will now turn to a few short
hints as to how to do the work in the forming of a new place:

The Verge of Walks and Roads should always be made as
inconspicuous as possible. The less the verge is elevated above
the walk, the less we have of harsh line to break the smoothness
and harmony of blending from lawa to roadway or flower-bed.
Some gardeners seem to think that a strong, harsh line, or verge
of two inches deep or more, next the path, is a mark of skill;
but to our taste it is only an exhibit of mechanical labor
‘breaking in upon the softness of Nature’s own laws, which
always resolve into one another without any harsh or offending
feature. The verge to a path should rise from the path just as
little as possible, if even extra care have been taken to cut each

 

 
 

 

8 HAND-—BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

line sloping underneath, as it were, so that when the roller is |
passed over it, the line of demarkation will be perceptible only
by the change of gravel to turf. .

Roll the Walks and Roads,—Frequent rolling of the path-
ways during winter is essential to keeping them firm and
smooth. It matters not whether they are traveled upon or not,
they should be rolled over every time when the frost is out of
the surface two inches or more. The same should be done after
every rain during the open seasons of the year.

Garden Soil will always pay for trenching deep, even if done
with the spade ; but remember to keep all the time the good or
surface soil at the top, and not bury it at the bottom, as we have
seen done by some gardeners. If the expense of trenching the
whole garden this year be too much for the purse, then select
one portion for this season’s improvement and another for next
year. Clay soils are especially benefited by trenching, and
while such soils are not specially adapted to early crops, the
trenching will be found a great aid in the aeration it gives
toward eorliness, and for a dry, hot summer a clay soil trenched
is superior to any of lighter texture.

Deciduous Trees and Shrubs should be planted just as early in
the season as the ground will work freely. Do not delay ; for
although many a tree succeeds when transplanted late in the
season, should an unfavorable season occur, it will not grow as
vigorously, and frequently gets so small a hold in the ‘soil, that
although alive at the commencement of winter, spring finds it
without vitality sufficient to make a new growth.

Turfing New Grounds.—When turf is to be laid, the ground |
should be permitted to lay and settle during one or two good
rains before the turf is put on, otherwise it will settle unevenly
and the turf be full of holes. After the ground has become well
. settled, rake it over anew and level again; then roll, and again
” rake as you lay the turf Laying the turf irregularly, or rather
with intervening spaces of one to two inches wide, and filling
with soil, then seeding with grass seed and rolling all down
together, is now practiced pretty generally and with great

 

 
 

 

, « LANDSCAPE GARDENING. ' 9

 

\

success in its results. No beating is given to the sod—the
roller doing all the pressure needed to form a good surface.

Seed for Lawns.—Let the ground be first thoroughly prepared,
| that is, dug at least one foot—better to be eighteen inches—
| ‘deep, and all of this depth to be of good, rich, loamy soil, not ten
| inches of poor clay or sand with two inches of top dressing, but
all the depth of good loam suitable for growing a heavy crop of
corn ora bed of carrots; make the whole depth and quality of
soil uniform, without regard to the rise and fall of the grades ;
in other words, do not form the soil in one place fourteen inches
deep and in another only ten, and then calling it an average of
one foot; because the lawn hereafter will tell of your work by
its exhibit of rich green grass in the deep soil places and of
yellow dried spots in the shallow ones; but make it all an even,
regular depth, whether on arising knoll or a low level grade.
Rake and pulverize with the roller all the top surface as fine as

an ash heap. When ready for sowing, procure for one acre—or
- in proportions according to the surface to be seeded—two
bushels of Blue Grass, two bushels of Red Top, half a bushel of
Creeping Bent, and one-eighth bushel of White Clover; mingle
them well together, and then divide into three equal parts. Sow
first one part; then go over the ground with a fine rake, say
from north to south, raking the whole surface back and forth to
lightly cover the seed; then sow another third portion of the
seed and repeat the raking cross-wise, or from east to west ; then
sow the last remaining portion of seed, and with a heavy roller,
roll or press the whole surface, both for the purpose of cementing
. the seed in the soil for vegetating, and also to prevent measur-
ably the wash liable: to accrue from rains. We sometimes see
advice of one bushel of seed to an acre; again, of two or three,
with a sprinkling of rye, as they say, to shade the young grass—
the adviser probably forgetting that the strong, rank roots of the
rye do more injury by extraction of moisture and food from the
roots than the benefit, if there is any, obtained from its shade.
Loudon, we believe, was in the practice of using “from six to
eight bushels of seed to. the acre; Downing, from four to six;
and our experience of twenty years over many and many an

 

 
 

 

10 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL ,

 

acre is, that if a good firm lawn is expected the first year, it is
always unsafe to use less than four bushels, and that the
addition of one or two bushels more well pays in the thick nest
of grass readily grown and the lessening of labor in extracting
weeds that, where no grass is, will surely grow. A top dressing
of bone meal, ten bushels to the acre, with two bushels of salt
and one-half bushel of gypsum (plaster), will also always be
found a profitable expenditure.
Grass Lawns.—When newly made must not be so closely
mown as old turf, but mowing must be performed with
regularity, or it is impossible to obtain a uniform velvety green
‘surface. To mow close a well-established turf is to encourage
the fine grasses and kill out the coarse kinds. Salt and plaster
are good manures. Use at the rate of one bushel of plaster and
three bushels of salt to the acre, and sow just before a rain. To
-have a good lawn, it should be freely mown, and no matter how
closely, early in the season ; but as soon as the hot season comes
on, the mowing should be less frequent and less close; while
during August, care should be had to rolling it often and early
in the morning, while the dew is on and the mowing high, or
just so that no seed be formed. As soon as the fall rains
commence, then the lawn may be closely mown again ; but near
the close of the season it should be left to form a growth fora
winter coat of protection to the crowns of the roots. These
remarks will be found in practice just as applicable where
_ command of water for sprinkling is had as where it is not. The
result, however, will not as soon develop.

Keep the Surface of the Ground Loose—We have many years
watched the varied results of the cultivator who keeps fréquently.
stirring the surface of his soil, and the one who hoes or cultivates
only when the weeds compel him to the work; and as we have
watched and recorded our notes, the result has always been in
favor of the constant stirring of the surface soil. We do not
advocate deep tillage during the growing season, but we would
have the ground deeply and thoroughly stirred early in the
season, whether it were an old or new plantation. Once, how-
ever, that vigorous growth of top and root has commenced, all

 
 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 11

 

deep tillage should cease, because, by pursuing it, constant and
continued checks are given, and a truly healthy growth

' prevented by repeated breaking and tearing asunder the roots
and fibers, the supplying pipes for elongation, expansion and
evaporation of the branches and leaves. By repeated surface
stirring of the soil, however, no roots are broken; the sun, air
and moisture are enabled to penetrate and assist in the chemical
transmutation of the earth’s compounds, and fitting them for
absorption by the roots.

Protect the Crowns of Trees.—Experience is a good teacher, and
,it has taught us that the action of severe frosts, followed by
rapid thaws on the surface roots and crowns of trees, creates
very great injury, often resulting in death, We have known
trees healthy on approach of winter, and the same when dug in
spring; we have found them with all the top and the lower
roots uninjured, but the crown and surface roots entirely
blackened and dead. This is often a result with grape-vines—in
fact, we have seen hundreds of vines exhibit this condition.
During the past autumn we have repeatedly urged the earthing
up to the crowns of trees and plants, with a view to prevention
.of this result. We now say, look over your trees carefully, and
if you have not turned the earth toward them, thus covering the
surface roots and crowns two or three inches deeper than their
position during the growing season, you should now do it by a
mulch of some sort. In the forest, Nature herself performs this
act by the dropping of the leaves; but in the open ground,
unless the trees stand in turf, and the fall growth of grass is leit,
no such protection is had. Surface-rooting plants, such as the
quince, Paradise apple, ete, and all newly-planted vines or
plants, suffer greater injury, because of the greater number of
. surface roots than older,or stronger rooted plants; but all are
’ affected, and the severity of the winter and number of changes
of frost and thaws will tell the result the next season—sometimes
in enfeebled growth, sometimes in complete death.
Pruning Trees in Spring—Whcn pruning trees in the spring,
remember that for every bud or inch of wood you cut away, two
more will be formed; and if you do not so cut as to throw the

 

 

 
 

 

12 HAND-—BOOK OF PRACTICAL

elongation from the last bud on the shoot left in an outward
direction, your tree will soon be a mass of shoots and branches,
and cause you to oppose any practice of pruning. On the other
hand, if you carefully study the probable continuation of each
bud left at the end of the.shoot pruned, you can form your tree
into a round, open, compact or spreading head, according to
your fancy. We could write a whole book on this item; but
our belief is that a few practical words of guidance are all that is
requisite to induce thought in the good common sense of our

readers.

Winter Pruning.—We do not advocate winter pruning,¢
because we think the wound made by the cut at this time more
liable to dry, and crack, and open, exposing it to water lodgment
as well as to harden at the edge, more than when performed
early in autumn or just as the sap starts in spring. If, however,
winter pruning has to be done, the operator should select a time
when the temperature, if possible, is above freezing point, and in
the middle of the day, and even then we would never cut away
any large or strong limbs at this time.

Plow up to the Roots of Trees and Vines.—All young orchard
trees, grape-vines, raspberries, blackberries, gooseberries, etc.,
should have the earth either plowed or shoveled up toward them,
leaving the center line between rows as a surface water-line for
winter drainage. Breaking of the roots by the plow in autumn
will not injure the plants, trees or vines, so that the laborer need
not be afraid of goitig too deep with plow or spade. Leave the
ground as rough as it will naturally lie—in other words, do not
rake and smooth down after plow or spade, because, when left
rough, the action of the elements during winter serves almost as
good a purpose as a light dressing of manure.

Bush and Pyramid Trees, under the common name of dwarfs,
should be carefully watched and pinched back from time to time,
if any special form is desired to be retained.

Shrubs under Drip of Trees.—It sometimes becomes necessary
‘to plant some shrubs under the shade and drip of trees, in order
to make up for the loss of branches, etc. The Daphne

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 13

Z

mezereum, Mahonia aquifolia, Hypericum percinum, barberries
of all sorts, and also privet, are good plants forthe purpose. For
covering the ground in the summer, in places where the grass
fails to sueceed, the varieties of vinca, of ribbon grass, Hypericum
hirsutum and Irish ivy are among the many good vines and
creepers that may be used.

Hardy Shrubs are readily propagated from cuttings of the
present year’s growth of wood.

It is better to make cuttings of all hardy shrubs, as currants,
gooseberries, wieglas, spirseas, etc., in the autumn than to delay
until mid-winter or spring. At this time the wood and bud are
all in full health and capable of sustaining themselves into
' growth in spring independent of the root; but late in winter
they are often so much enfeebled by exhaustion and exposure to
extremes of cold, that often they fail to grow even under the
best of care. This loss of vitality, if the shoot or bud were left
on the parent plant, would be renewed in the spring by means
of the roots, but when separated therefrom, can not be replaced,
and hence the cause for a too oft failure in growing winter-made
cuttings. Cuttings early in Autumn may be at once planted out
in the open ground where they are to grow, and covered entirely
first with earth, then over it with a light character of mulch, 4s
straw, meadow hay, etc., the mulch to be removed in spring and
the earth also down toa strong bud. Or the cuttings may be
tied in bundles and packed in clean sand in a cool cellar or pit,
or. they may be packed away in thin layers, with moss inter-
vening, and so kept for planting out in early spring.

Roses Propagated by means of Layers should, as soon as it is
certain they have become rooted, be taken up and potted off in
good sharp, rich, sandy soil. It is no trick to form the layer,
but many rose-growers know to their cost the loss attendant
during winter of layered plants taken up and potted or heeled in
at the close of tht growing season. Pot them as soon as they
have made an inch of root; set them in a shady place, water
earefully for a few days, or until there is no appearance of their
flagging, when the pots may be plunged in the soil, out in the

 

 

 
 

 

14 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

full light, and by the close of the season each will present a wel'-
grown and bushy plant. Of course they must be occasionally
watered.

Evergreens, where they can be procured from a near-by
nursery, may be removed with almost sure success during
October. The trees have completed their growth, and the soil
being warm when removed, the broken roots will heal and form
new roots much more rapidly than in spring, when the earth is
cold. Keep the roots from even a half hour’s drying; and when
planting, thoroughly saturate the ground immediately in connec-
tion with copious watering, before completely filling in all the
earth. If a rainy time occur, the artificial watering may be
dispensed with. If but a few trees are to be removed, the
operator can almost always select a cloudy or drizzling, rainy
day, when, if it is not quite so pleasant working, there is less
care required to keep the roots from drying, and the application_
of water by hand can be entirely dispensed with.

Perennials.--October month is one of the best for transplant-
ing and dividing perennial plants; and as flowering perennials
are among the easiest cultivated in forming a flower garden, and
abound in great diversity of foliage and color of flower, they
should be freely planted in every garden. Prepare the ground
by digging it fully one foot deep, and mingling—unless already
rich—a quantity of well decomposed manure or compost.
Obtain the plants from a reliable dealer—order good strong
roots—plant them carefully, and then spread a light covering of
coarse straw manure, say two inches deep, over all for winter
protection.

Hollyhocks.—The production of seedling varieties of the holly-
hock has been very great during the past ten years, and at this
time they equal, if they do not surpass, in beauty the dahlia.
They are perfectly hardy, and can be left in the open border
with impunity. Seeds of choice kinds sown early in the season
in a hot-bed frame, and got ready for transplanting in May, will
flower the same season; while divisions and cuttings from choice
varieties already produced may be made, and by giving them a
slight start in a frame, will transplant and bloom finely, forming

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 15

 

one of the cheapest and most effective background features for a
flower garden imaginable. Make the ground deep and rich with
abundance of well rotted cow-dung.

Herbaceous Plants.—Hardy herbaceous plants should be trans-
planted as early as the ground can be worked freely. After
planting, cover the crowns with an inch or two of leaf mold or
chip dirt, as it will greatly assist them in resisting the freezing
and thawing until the full opening of spring. In digging over
beds of herbaceous plants, be careful, as many plants like
peonias, campanulas, etc., are often destroyed by spading or
forking, and thus destroying their crowns ere they have shown
their buds above ground. It is always well to be in time; but
better wait a day or two more rather than dig, until each plant
can be distinctly traced in its position.

Herbaceous Plants, as soon as they have done flowering, may
be easily propagated by cuttings. These should be planted in a
cold frame in a mixture of sand and loam, and kept shaded
until roots have formed.

Hardy Annuals.—In selecting varieties of hardy annuals, seek
rather a few of those that bloom freely and grow vigorously,
than to make Your collection one of varieties. Very little
satisfactory effect can be obtained from a great variety, many of
them possessing xo distinctive character of color, however pretty
aud curious they may be to the botanist. Large masses of a few
sorts and of distinct colors, white, crimson, ete., such as candy-
tufts, phlox-Drummondi, etc., will give, are very effective either
in small gardens or on extensive lawns.

Bedding Plants require special attention to pinching and
pegging, for on this depends greatly the beauty of display as the
plants come into bloom.

A Bed of Lilies. —By all means plant out a bed of Japan lilies.
Select, if you can, a position where when they come into flower
you will have to look up rather than down to see the flower;
make the ground two feet or more deep, working into it plenty
of well-rotted compost manure; then get the varieties of lily in
all their numbers; plant them at distances of about one foot

 

 
 

 

‘16 . HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

apart each way, setting the bulb in clean sand and covering _
about three inches deep.
- We have been at one time particularly observant of two beds —
of Japan lilies in a neighbor’s garden,—one growing in the |
ordinary open exposed garden bed, the other planted among
some rock work on the north side of the house. The first
blooms a few days the earliest, but the flowers are soon gone,
while the latter continues in bloom nearly six weeks.

This ‘is a significant hint to planters of hardy bulbs, as it
means that the latter bed has moisture and depth for the roots,
sustaining their growth for a long period, while the former, by
reason of open exposure, are enhanced perhaps in period of
blooms, but from the heat are brought rapidly to maturity.
Planters of lilies, therefore, should, in order to have abundant
and long continued blooms, dig the ground very deep, and in
spring, or just before blooming time, shield the surface by a
light surface mulching.

Soil for Inlies.—In the ordinary prepared soils of eight inches
deep, for the Japan lilies, the growth of flower stems varies fro*h
eighteen inches to two feet in height; but where the ground is
prepared some eighteen inches deep, of rich soil and drained, the
flower stems rise to four and five feet, and with proportionate
' increase of flowers. Lilium auratum has been grown with stems
nine feet high, and having nineteen perfect flowers upon it,
some of which have measured one foot in diameter.

Hoe with the Rake.—This may be an Irishman’s advice, but we
have found great advaniage in the use of an iron tooth rake or
toothed hoe during the early cultivation of all garden crops.
We go over our beets, parsnips, peas, beans, etc., with a twelve
tooth steel rake as soon as they show sign of coming above
ground. For potatoes, corn, and for working among raspberries
and other small fruits, and for stirring the surface earth around
dwarf pears and recently planted trees, we use a four-pronged ©
hook or hoe, with which a man will perform nearly or quite one
sixth more work in a day, destroy the weeds, and leave the
ground always light, loose and even.

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 17

 

CONDENSED DESCRIPTIONS OF TREES AND SHRUBS.

We commence this list with the Evergreen trees and shrubs
or creepers. The trees are valuable as screens from cold winds,
hedges, and as features of beauty and of back-grounds in the
creation of beautiful home grounds, and especially do they give
life ideal in the winter. A tall symmetrical evergreen in winter,
laden with frozen snow, in the early rays of the morning sun or
the soft, silvery light of the moon, can never be seen without
feeling that all of beauty comes from the good God’s creation,
not man’s artifice. Many places, however, are rendered gloonty
and dark from their too free use in the foreground and’ near to
the house. Many have planted beautiful Norway spruces of
three feet high within eight feet of their front windows, or three
feet of their walks or roadways, forgetting that in half a dozen to
a dozen of yeats they willbe from twenty to thirty feet high,
and as many of breadth of limb base. The same silly thing has
been done on lots in a cemetery of 12 by 20 feet.

In evergreens there is a great deal of beauty, especially in
winter, but as a class for effective scenery, creative of varied
beauty in months when deciduous trees are in bud, bloom and
foliage. They have not the qualities of a change in character
from month to month of the deciduous trees and shrubs. They
can be grouped beautifully with the Mountain Ash, Huonymus
or Strawberry tree, which bear clusters of red fruit in late
autumn and winter.

In: removing and‘ transplanting evergreens the first statement
was, thati they should have balls of earth attached, the next was
that they could only be moved at certain seasons of the year;
but those who practically and theoretically understand the ever-
green tree or plant, can move them at any time when the ground:

 

 
 

 

18 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

can be worked freely, except the months of July and August, in

all our latitudes from above 43° down to 40°, below that June ©

and September must be included with July and August. In
transplanting, itis only requisite to remember that the tree has
its leaves on, and that there is consequently a constant demand
upon the roots for evaporation by the leaves, and therefore it
will not do to permit them to get dry. With small sized trees, a
root nearly corresponding with the top is generally procured,
when the trees have been rightly grown in the nursery and
cutting in of the top is unnecessary; but in the case of removal
of trees six feet or more in height, unless extraordinary care is
taken, a great reduction of the root is the result, and then it is
advisable always to shorten in the length of the branches
corresponding with the apparent loss of roots the tree has
sustained.

The writer of this has superintended the removal of evergreen
trees thirty feet in height, and breadth according at the base.

The practice has been to first mark the outline of the lower .

branches, then raise them gently and carefully and tie them
points upward at six feet above the ground by a soft rope or
strap passed once around and fastened to the main stem of the
tree; then with rakes and forks take off the surface ground
among the small fibrous roots toa depth of four inches, then
dig a trench eighteen inches deep and wide at the outskirt line
of the branches; this done, then work underneath the roots and
carefully loosen them until they can be raised and tied to the
body of the tree—then place a mat underneath, and if the tree
has to go any distance pack wet moss among the roots, if it is
only to be moved one-quarter of a mile, merely sprinkling the
roots and wetting the mat will be necessary. Have the hole for
its transplanting ready dug and well wet, then set the tree upon
alittle mound for its center and take down the roots one by one
and spread them as near to their natural position as can be done,
mingling soil by pressure of the fingers outspread, not jammed
down with the fist or a club stick. Avoid all treading of the
feet, but with the hand outspread see to it that the base has no
vacancy from packed soil of even one inch diameter.

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 19

Follow this with each course of roots, having calculated that
your upper tier will be four inches below the level of the ground
and your tree with one careful watering like rain—not inch jets
—and a mulch of four inches of new mown grass, straw, saw-
dust or tanbark, is all right. Nota stake is needed. Having
said so much touching the evergreens, we shall now take up our

CONDENSED DESCRIPTIONS.

American Arbor Vite.—This is commonly known as White
Cedar, but it does not belong botanically to that class. It isa
hardy evergreen, conical, upright, uniform; excellent for screens
and hedges and can, by clipping annually, be grown in any form.
Small plants of it, by judicious yearly pruning, can be kept at a
height of three to four feet, with a spread of thirty feet diameter.

American Weeping Arbor Vite.—This is of small, say half
natural habit in size, of a drooping habit; rare and beautiful.

Arbor Vite—Var Ericoides,—Is a dwarf variety, with heath-
like foliage; suited only to rock work, or some groups of dwarf
evergreens.

Arbor Vite—Hoveyi.—This is a variety of our common
American ; more compact and dwarf in its habit.

Arbor Vite—Maculata.—A blotched leaved variety of the ‘
American ; only of value as a curiosity.

Arbor Vite—Plicata.—A variety with a dark green foliage ;
untested.

Arbor Vite—Plicata Minima.—Said to be a dwarf of the
foregoing.

Arbor Vite—~Siberica.—This is one of the hardiest, most
perfect in growth and habit of the whole class of Thwas. It
matters not where it is placed, or what you want of it; a
knowledgeable person can use it in any form or position. There
is a variety with variegated foliage, suited toa novelty tree or
plant grower.

 

 
 

 

20 HAND-BOOK. OF PRACTICAL

 

Arbor Vite—Tom. Thumb.—Botanically this has. no distinct
designation,, but; the plant is distinct, and for a compact symmet-
rical grower it has no equal. It deserves a place in every man’s
grounds, and thousands of them should be used in cemeteries.
It originated in Ellwanger & Barry’s gardens, Rochester, N. Y.

Arbor Vitee—Chinese—Some place this. as botanically Biota,
instead of Thuja. In many sections it is one of our most
delicate shrub evergreen trees, and may be: trained to any form,
It often browns in winter, but with careful clipping in early
spring it comes out beautiful with its clear light green. We
have grown it conical, oval, flat and rounded.

Arbor Vite—Compacta.—This is « variety of the Chinese, but
more dwarf and compact in its natural form. It. is hardy.

Arbor Vite-— Golden.—A. variety of the Chinese, with foliage
of. a yellowish hue; beautiful, and said to be hardy—of which
we have doubts.

Arbor Vite—Pygmea.—A. very dwarf variety. There are
many more of these, but when we work. for the benefit of the
public we do not. feel. like wasting, time noting novelties;
untested.

Cypress—Cupressus Lawsoniana.—This is one of the most
graceful of evergreen trees. It is not, however, fully hardy in
a'l locations, but deserves a place where some other evergreens
shade and protect it from the sun in winter. Like the Chinese
Arbor Vite it requires to have the ends of some of' the twigs
clipped, in spring.

There are several other varieties more erect and compact:
One Stricta. is.among the best. MeNabiana has glaneous leaves.
Nutkaensis has glossy, dark green foliage, and is very beautiful.
Thyoides is the true white cedar, quite hardy. There are two or
more of Japan Cypress, but their hardihood ig not yet fully
tested.

Juniper—(Juniperus. )—ANl of this class are hardy and. valu-
able. They are of all forms, from lowest. creeper to, tall stately
trees, like the Red cedar.

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 21

 

Juniperus Virginiana.—These are very erect dwarf varieties,
and drooping, almost weeping.
Libocedrus.—Of this class there are but two varieties, viz.:

Chilensis and Decurrens, both handsome, but not hardy at the
North.

Pines.—Nearly all of the pines are hardy. The Mountain,
(Mugho,) Mugho Rotundata and Dwarf White Pine (Strobus Nana)
ac among the hardest and best of dwarfs. The Austrian, White,
Norway or Red, Scotch, Corrican, Banksian and Swiss Stone
are perfectly hardy. The five first named make large beautiful
trees, each distinct in color of foliage, the two last named
(Banksian) is of a yellowish cast in foliage, a half drooping in
form, Swiss Srone or Cembrian is of a light whitish green, like
unto the White or Monmouth pine, yet more compact and up-
right. Both this and Banksia make only small trees.

The Bhotan (Ezcelsa) is a variety of great beauty, but it must
be planted in dry and poor ground and shaded or sheltered from
’ the sun in winter by evergreen or buildings. Salzmann’s,
Bentham’s, Heavy-wooded, Jeffrey's and Lambert’s are all of
recent introduction, and give promise of forming some of the
most stately and hardy trees. The Calabrian is one of
the most beautiful of all, but it is very rare. The Russian
(Rigensis) is much like Bentham, yet distinct, is hardy and
vigorous, more open than the Austrian; foliage yellowish
green, bright and clear.

Silver, Fir—Picea.—The American Balsam Fir is well-known,
and while young makes fine trees, as it acquires age, however, it
should have the ends of its branches clipped yearly. The
variety called Hudson Bay Fir makes only a dwarf tree. The
European or Pectinata and also Webbiana are liable to lose their
leading stems, especially while young. The Amabilis, Cepha-
lonican, Cilician, Great Silver, Noble, Nordmann’s, Pinsapo and
Wooly-fruited are among the more recent introductions and
worthy of attention.

Spruce Fir—The American White Spruce is one of the most
beautiful of hardy trees, -second class in size. The American is

 

 
 

 

22° HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

of a darker shade in foliage, and more upright in its branches.
Both are valuable as screen hedges, or dwarf evergreen hedges,
as they bear the shears well. Alba Cerulea, Kacelsa Clan-
brasiliana, Elegans, Gergoryana, Mucronata, Parviformis, Pygmea,
Canadenis Nana,'Pumila, Nigra, Tortuosa Compacta are all classed
as dwarf trees.

The Excelsa Inverta is a pendulous variety of the Norway
Spruce. The commonly well-known Norway Spruce and the
Hemlock Spruce are too well known to need a word. Both are
of value as specimen trees, wind breaks or hedges. There are a
number of other varieties, but none superior to those we have
named, unless it be the Himalayan.

Sequoia Gigantea.—This is called the big tree of California, is
majestic in form, but too often it proves unreliable north of 42
latitude, below that it is all right, and situations, soils, with care
can grow it at the North.

The Yew—Taxus.—This evergreen is all of the dwarf form.
There are rare foliaged varieties and many very compact, but
nearly all of them brown badly from winter suns. The English
(Baccata) and Irish (Hibernica) sometimes grow to a height of 20
to 80 feet. The Nana, Stricta, Adpressa are among the best as
low shrubs, and Dovastonii pendula is fine as a weeping variety.

WEEPING DECIDUOUS TREES.

Within a few years the popular taste has been largely turned
to the introduction of drooping trees as objects of graceful
beauty, harmonizing with the smoothness and verdue of a lawn,
or the high keeping and neatness of a pleasure garden. Droop-
ing trees, like water fountains, are dangerous in the hands of
those who attempt their use in the decoration of grounds, with-
out possessing a considerable knowledge and good taste in the
composition of a landscape. Gracefulness and elegance being
the prominent characteristics of drooping trees, they are shown
to the best advantage either singly or in wide, yet tasteful
groups, or lawns, or borders; where symmetrical art, rather than

the natural picturesque is sought to be embodied as the leading |

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 23

 

feature, where bold expression is desired, they are entirely
unfitted. Placed on the borders of groups, at sufficient distance
to enable them to exhibit their peculiar habits and develop freely
their forms, many of the drooping trees may be used effectively,
provided the group of which they form a part is composed with
similar pensile, although not so distinct in habits of foliage or
spray as exhibited in the American elm, black birch, or wild
cherry. For planting on the borders of ponds, or streams of
running water, or as symbols of sympathy between the living
and the dead in cemeteries, they are all valuable; and with
judicious knowledge of their expansion in growth to arrange
them on lots or in positions suitable to their future lives, they
cannot be too much used.

VARIETIES,

European Weeping Ash.—This is one of the oldest varieties of
weeping trees known. Originally it was more extensively
planted than any other variety, because of its rapid growth and
clear, glossy foliage. There are also of Weepers the gold barked
and the Lentiscus-leaved, both valuable, but in sections not
quite hardy.

Weeping Beech.—This we consider the king of all the weeping
trees. It is perfectly hardy, grows freely and rapidly in almost
any soil, and forms one of the most graceful and picturesque,
yet unique trees.

European Weeping Birch.—The cut-leaved Weeping Birch is
one of the best of this variety. Among the new varieties the
Elegans pendula and Young’s New Weeping are entirely distinct,
yet of the most delicate character.

Weeping Cherry—Of this class we give preference to the
dwarf weeping (pumila) and the ever flowering (semperflowrens).
Both require to be grafted from four to six feet high.

Weeping Cypress—Cupressus Glyptostrobus pendula.—This is a
beautiful weeper, but we regard it as not hardy at the North,

Weeping Eim.—Of the Weeping Elms we count the Camper-
down as the most persistent drooping drooping variety. The

 

 
 

 

24 HANDBOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

Scotch Weeping has drooping branches but not pendulous. ‘The
cork barked is distinct, so also Hertfordshire and rough leaved. . ;
The small leaved is only of value for the reserve garden as a
study.

Weeping Huonymous.—This is a variety of a shrub called the
Strawberry tree or Burning Bush. It is a novelty of value.

Weeping Honey Locust.—Hardy and with fine foliage, but we
should award it a place only in the reserve grounds.

Weeping Larch.—If a tree is wanted for a rocky bank, or as a
grotesque feature at some conspicuous point nothing can equal
the Weeping Larch, but for a symmetrical-lawn it is not suited.

Weeping Linden.—The tree that goes under the name of
Weeping Linden is not strictly a weeper. Its foliage is whitish
underneath and with age it has a half drooping habit.

Weeping Mountain Ash.—This is one of the most beautiful of
weeping trees, but the Saperda, a borer, often destroys it by
girdling it. It is generally worked upon the common Mountain
ash at six to eight feet high, and in four years its branches reach
the ground, loaded with white blooms in spring and red berries
in winter. .

Weeping Poplar.—The variety of this weeper (grandidenta
pendula) is well adapted to the back-ground of a group of
weepers, but it is too strong and bold, except upon a large lawn
or back from a pond or running stream.

Weeping Sophora.—The Sophora Japonica Pendula is one of the
most beautiful of weepers. The foliage is smooth, dark green,
with very pendulous branches and pinnate leaves. Occasionally
trees of it stand hardy in our Northern latitude, but above
42° we should never advise its planting.

Weeping Willows.—The Salix Babylonica is our old well-known
weeping willow. From long usage this willow has come to be
associated with either water or the sadness of life—in the one
case, indicative of a marshy region or stream of water; in the
other, of the last resting place of friends once on earth.
Beautiful as it is in itself, these very associations preclude its
introduction into almost any suburban or even extended place.

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 25

 

The American or Fountain Willow and the Kilmarnock come
in well at times on the point where two roads meet and
converge. They are also adapted to borders and corners of lots
in cemeteries. Two owners of lots adjoining should conspire
together to place the weeper upon the joint corner line.

Weeping Thorn.—There are several varieties of Weeping
Thorns (Crategus) all of them pretty and well suited for plant-
ing on small lawns or cemetery lots.

DECIDUOUS TREES.

In all of ornamental gardening the deciduous trees take a first
rank for the blossoming of the bud, the ripening of the seed or
fruit, the ever changing of the foliage gives daily a variety to
the whole of the grounds where they are planted. Our work is
not of sufficient extent of character to note all varieties, unless
we condense our remarks to a few words.

The Snowy Maple Leaved Abele, belonging to the poplar
family, is a tree of rapid growth, but with such a tendency to
sucker that it is unworthy of culture.

The Ailanthus, or Flower of Heaven, is a tree of rapid
growth. Like others, elm, maple, etc., it has two sexes, both of
which produce flowers, the male much less abundantly than the
female, and while the male suckers freely the female does not.
The perfume from the flower of the female is poisonous, while
that of the male is not. No insects trouble these trees, and they
are mainly valuable for the street.

The Ash is varied in its forms and accordingly is suited to
locations. The flowering Var, Ornus Europea, Salicifolia,
Americanus are among the best for lawns or streets. An
ornamental] tree is produced by grafting the Dwarf Globe headed
(originated with Ellwanger & Barry) about six feet high on the
stocks of the American Ash.

The Beech—Fagus.—Our American Beech (Fagus Americana)
we rank as combining in itself more of beauty, grace and
magnificence than perhaps any other of our forest trees. True,
it has not the oak, but with its stateliness of upright, spreading

 

 
 

 

26 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

growth, every line and twig is one of graceful ease. Young
trees should always be procured with branches starting from the
ground, and rarely does it need the knife applied to give it
regularity and symmetry and form. A deep, loamy, rather
moist soil gives it most vigor and causes it to grow to a large
size. As a single lawn tree it has no superior, and wherever
room can be given for its full developwent it should be planted.

There are mady varieties of the Beech, of which the Cut
leaved, Crested leaved, Fern leaved, Long leaved, Oak leaved
and Purple leaved, each have a distinct character. The Purple
leaved is certainly the most desirable of all, except the native.
It has rather stronger limbs than the common plain variety, and
the young shoots and buds are of a rare color, while the foliage,
when young or half grown, is of a reddish purplish tinge,
forming a pleasing and attractive contrast with the green of
other trees.

The Birch.—This tree in its varieties is adapted to poor soils.
The lenta and pubesceus are the most common, while the prunus
_padus is one of the largest in growth and production of fruit.
One dwarf variety nana makes a tree of only about five feet
high. The varieties are admirable for crowning a point of
rocky ledge or grouping with the,Scotch Larch and Hemlock or
White and Combined Pines.

Butternut—Juglaus Cineria.— Although not strictly to be
classed among ornamental trees, yet the rapidity of growth while
young, the habit of early bearing, together with the great value
of its fruit, makes the Butternut a tree desirable to plant
wherever a suitable place can be found.

Catalpa.—Syringafolia.—A native of our Southern States, the
Catalta or Shavasion is one of our most showy as well as rapid
growing trees. It is not quite hardy in our Northern States,
except where it has protection from evergreen trees. It is a tree
that groups well with the Scotch, Austrian and yellow pines. A
light, dry soil is best suited to its growth.

Cherry.—The Wild or Bird Cherry has several varieties
popularly recognized, but only that classed by botanist as

 
 

 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 27

 

Virginiana is desirable for parks or private grounds, The tree
grows rapidly, and while its slender branches droop, its form is
upright, spreading, and when in good soil attaining a large size.
Like the birch graceful and pliant, swaying to every breeze its
glossy foliage in the summer season, and its delicate, long,
slender, purplish red spray in the winter, makes the Bird Cherry
a very desirable tree for many situations. As a street tree it is
unsuitable, and for small grounds it grows too large. Birds
seem attracted to it, and nest in it perhaps more than in any
other tree.

Perfumed or Mahaleb Cherry.—This variety makes a small,
round-headed tree of fifteen to twenty feet in height, and the
same iu breadth. It is of great beauty and value as an orna- —
mental tree. It has a strong, yet agreeable perfume when in
flower, and bears an abundance of fruit. This fruit has its seeds
and can be made profitable, as it is a variety upon which our
large sweet cherries are worked as dwarfs, and the roots or
plants of one year old are always in demand. Its abundant
spray, pale green beads, which it holds until very late in
autumn, makes for it a strong claim as a foreground trees
whether evergreen or deciduous.

Double Flowering Cherry is a variety of the Heart Cherries, has
a vigorous growth, and, in season, a profusion of double white
flowers like miniature roses. It is a valuable tree for roadsides
in the country, parks, or extensive private grounds.

Deciduous Cypress.—Taxodium Distichia.—Although a native
of our Southern States, the Deciduous Cypress proves hardy in
our Middle States and also a great portion of our Northern
States. In foliage it is different from all other trees, with a
resemblance to the Hemlock; it has a light, bright green, com-
bined with an airy lightness of great elegance, pleasing and
attractive to all. In low, wet grounds, as in its native habitat,
it grows to a large tree, but planted in our common garden soils,
it forms a tree of only medium height, suy twenty to thirty feet.
As it pushes its roots deep into the ground, itis always best to
transplant young trees. Grouped with hemlocks and firs, its

 

 
 

 

28 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

light green foliage and airiness contrast beautifully with the
more sombre shades of evergreen.
Dogwood—Cornus.—The common Dogwood (Cornus Florida)

abounds in all sections of the Middle States. It does not often ©

grow over twenty fect high, but its profusion of white flowers in

early spring have drawn the attention of orhamental planters to,

it, until it is now sought for and planted by every landscapist of
any taste. Asa small tree to skirt the boundaries of evergreen
groups, peeping out from among them with its snowy flowers in
spring, and its brilliant red berries and dark red foliage in
autumn, few can equal it. There is a variegated-leaved variety,
its leaves blotched with white, that when the plant is to stand
with other deciduous trees, is better because of the greater
attractions created by its foliage, and there is also one, the
Sanguinea. with its young shoots of a bright scarlet color, that is
ornamental whether planted by itself or against a relief of
evergreens.

EHim—From the abundance of Elms, everywhere native, over
our country, and the almost perfect certainty of their living after
transplanting with ordinary care, it has become one of our most
popular street and park trees. Gracefully elegant, by reason of
its long sweeping branches and its loose pendant, its* tufted
masses of foliage, vigorous and almost lofty in its growth, and
adapting itself as it were to all soils, wet or dry, clay or sand,
the American White Elm has no superior as a street or park

tree—where it can be planted so as to give it room for develop- |

ment, but when planted, as it too often is, in small grounds or
on the sides of narrow streets or avenues, where its limbs have
to be lopped off or trimmed up, it is unsuited, because in so
doing its beauty is destroyed and the owner has only a long bare
trunk where he might have had, with some other variety, a mass
of foliage and beauty. The Red Elm (Ferlva) is more upright in
its growth than the White and does not attain as great size, but
it is not as desirable for planting in positions too confined for the

White, as the European (Camputris) or Scotch (Montana) Elms. —

The European or English Elm forms a lofty tree of less spread-

ing habit than our White Elm, and in retaining its foliage later "|

 

 
 

 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 29.

 

extends, apparently, our season of summer. As a shade tree it
is more compact and dense in its foliage, and therefore more
suitable in the formation of masses or groups. A great number
of varieties. of this species are grown from seed, and the planter
can frequently select a dozen trees of different habits among
those offered by the dealer as one. Nurserymen offer over
twenty-five as distinct varietier A few of them are of due
credit and value as novelties, viz.: The Purple-leaved, Slender
Twigged, Gerroted-leaved and Cork Barked (Suberosa.) It is
vigorous and hardy, foliage rich and dark, hanging late in
autumn, and its branches and twigs covered with a fungous
growth of a cork like substance, so singular and curious as to
attract attention and admiration. The foliage of all the elms in
autumn is of a yellow tint.

The Ginko—Salisburia.— A tree with foliage unlike any. other.
In form it has generally a neat, regular, open, conical head; its.
foliage on long petioles, giving it an airy and unique appearance
that harmonizes. well with buildings, but doesnot. so well with.
masses or. groups of other trees.

Horse. Chestnut.— Esculus:—¥or bordering the lines of straight.
avenuesand for public. squares or town plots, where regularity
and symmetry are desired rather than grandeur, for single lawn
trees and for limited use in grouping with the Scotch and.
Austrian Pines, the Ilorse Chestnut is one of our best and most
ornamental trees. The old white flowering has. now given place
to, one of the same habit.in growth, but producing double white
flowers. Where the ground is limited, it is well to have the
Variegated-leaved, Double Red Flowering and other rare and
new varieties engrafted upon the Double White Flowering.
The Dwarf Double Flowering (Nana Fi. Pl.) and of. variety
Pavia, the. Cumea Superba, Camea Pubescens, Purpurca, Rubra,
Flava, etc. come into use along a line or as a group at.a turn of
the road. The growth of these is in no case of value, other than.
a low group of broad leaved shrubs..

Hickory.—Carya.—The difficulty of transplanting the: Hickory
or White: Walnut has. kept.it from.free.use: The.net.of practice.

 

 
 

30 HAND—BOOK OF PRACTICAL

in the transplanting of this tree freely and safely is to dig a
trench around a two years’ seedling of one foot in depth, two
feet diameter, and cut off every root, so that the whole can be
raised like a ball. This course will make the hickory the next
year as safe to transplant as-any other tree.

Linden.—Tilia.—Under the name of Basswood our Arnerican
Linden or Lime tree is well known. Of rapid growth, easily
transplanted, full and flowing in its outline or form, its foliage
broad and of a rich green, few of our native or exotic trees have
more to recommend them than the Linden. It prefers and
grows more vigorously in a light and rich deep soil, but grows
well in even a poor sand or clay soil, provided it is not wet.
Its regular, uniform, but flowing form, adapts it well to planting
in grounds of the graceful school in composition, and also to
avenues, streets and public parks. There are a number of
varieties, the best of which, we think, is the Ala or White
Leaved Linden, which has aery broad foliage, deep green on the
upper side and nearly white underneath, so that every breeze
that rustles among it gives: to it an airy and beautiful appear-
ance. The European Linden has smaller leaves than our
American, and is perhaps more regular in form, and there are
varieties of it—one with the young shoots quite red and one
with them yellow—that are extremely ornamental in winter, the
red especially, when grouped with evergreens, forming
conspicuous lines. There are also fancy varieties as the Fern-
leaved. Grape-leaved, etc., that are curious and pretty, and may
be worked on one of the Red Twigged European.

Locust.—Robinia—We do not regard the Locust (Var
fobinia) as of much value for planting on roadsides, in parks or
private grounds. The best way to use the Spreading -(Horizon-
talis), the Crisp-leaved (Crispa), the Rose Flowered ( Visesa), etc.,
is to graft them upon the Honey Locust (Gleditschia Triacanthos). *
This latter, the Honey Locust, is a tree that does not sucker, ©
rarely if ever breaking under the strongest gales of wind,
assumees to itself the privilege of growing in many shapes, from
that of a tall, branching and lofty character, to one of almost |

wen weit ee nee ee
awe
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 81

‘

horizontal form. In foliage it is light and open, feathery, and
together with its wood studded with long, pointed thorns, and
seed pods of five or six inches in length, which hang on all
winter, create for it a tree very desirable in the composition of
groups, and also for roadsides or streets, where only a partial,
not deep shade is desirable.

Larch.—Lariz—The European Larch is a tree almost
indispensible in ornamental planting of grounds. Seemingly
indifferent as to the nature of the soil, it grows with surprising
rapidity in thin, poor, light sands, in wet, boggy loams, in high
rocky knolls, or in rich garden loam. It should, however, be
sparingly planted in grounds where the graceful, rather than the
picturesque, is designed to be created. The European Larch,
when the tree is so planted that it can plainly be seen, is very
beautiful with its bright pink flowers early in spring.

Magnolia.—To this family, many varieties of which are the
pride of our Southern States, too little attention is given by the
majority of tree planters; whether it is that good plants are
difficult to be obtained, or whether it is because the trees arc
rather sensitive and unwilling to be carelessly and negligently
handled¢ when transplanting, very few planters make room for
them on their lists or in their grounds, but how any landscapist
can form an extensive group of evergreens and deciduous trees
without using Magnolias, is beyond our comprehension. In our
experience we have found no difficulty when transplanting,
provided we kept the roots from cold, drying winds or clear,
burning suns; exposure to either of which, by reason of their
soft, spongy texture, is injurious and often destructive of life.
Of the varieties all are beautiful, but some are not perfectly
hardy in the Northern States. A sandy, loamy soil suits them
best, but if it is strictly dry the trees of some varieties, as
Macrophylla, etc., when grown on their own roots, are liable to
die out in from five to ten years. Any soil containing lime is
injurious to the Magnolia. We prefer to make our soil, when
not naturally suited, by digging a place three to four feet deep
and eight to ten feet in diameter, and fill it with light, rich, fresh

 

 
 

 

32 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

*

top soil drawn from the woods. The Magnolia Acuminata, or
Cucumber Tree, as it is frequently called, is very upright and
regular, almost cone-like in form, and for backgrounds or the
center of groups one of the most desirable of all deciduous trees.
Itis:the best of allas a stock to engraft any and all varieties
upon it. The Magnolia Macrophylla, Cordata, Auriculata,
Conspicua, Soulangea, Longrfolia, Gordoniana, Thompsoniana,
Norbertiana, Speciosa, Superba, Lenna and Tripetela are all
superior when worked on the Acuminata. The Glanca Purpurca
and Gracil’s are of small growth on their own roots, and used
mainly as the foreground of groups.

Maple.—Acer.—All the Maples are good as shade trees for
lawn or roadside, but among them the Rubrum, Red Flowering,
or, as generally termed, Scarlet Maple is most to be prized. Its
red flowers and leaves in early spring or beginning of summer,
its brilliant shades’ of red foliage in autumn, taken in connection
with its rapid growth and upright, spreading form, render it one
of the most ornamental of hardy trees. It may not be quite as
rapid in growth as the Silver-leaved (Dasycarpum), but is more
upright and its branches less liable to be broken by heavy
winds. The Silver-leaved is, however, a valuable variety, and
where partially sheltered or where it can have an opportunity to
develop itself, it is one of the most graceful as well as lofty of
the species. As the trees are all grown from seeds, there is great
variety of habit among them, some having almost as much of a
drooping habit as the Willow, others of a spreading, open habit
similar to American White Elm. For light sandy soils the Red
and Silver-leaved are among the best, other varieties in light
soils make little progress after afew years) The Sugar Maple
(Saccharinum) makes one of the most compact and regular of
round headed trees, forming a dense shade. It is, however, a
a slow grower, and should: be planted only in rich, deep, well:
drained’ soils. The Moosewood or Striped-barked Maple. is a
small growing variety, so also the Cumpestris, Dissectum,
Laciniata, Negundo: Orispa. The Sycamore Maple (Pseudo
Platanus) is a stately, rapid: growing tree, with broad’ foliage of
a.rich green. In the autumn its foliage’ becomes’ a rich: golden

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 83

 

yellow. The Norway Maple (Platanoides) is: another desirable
variety. Itis often mistaken for the Sycamore Maple, but. it is
more upright, and does not make go large a tree, This with
Campestris are admirably adapted to small grounds.

The Macrophylla or Large Leaved is one of the finest of upright
growth and great beauty, and although intradueed many years
ago it is yet little known. There are numerous: fancy varieties,
such as Tricolor, Variegated-leaved, Cut-leaved, Purple-leaved,
etc., all of which are curious and desirable in grounds. of large
extent, but in places where a limited number only ean have
place the Purple-leaved is the one particularly desirable. Its
leaves are purplish underneath and pale green above when. fully
expanded, and at midsummer and thereafter until the fall of the
leaves, every breeze that ruffles and disturbs them, produces a
singular and pleasing effect in contrast with the foliage of other
varieties. The Ash-leaved Maple or Box Elder (Negundo
Fraxinifolia) isa very rapid growing variety, of great beauty
from its peculiar formed leaves and its pale green, smooth young
wood. It makes a large tree when grown in a deep, rich, moist

soil, but ina light sandy loam or good garden soil, itformsa _

tree of medium size, which from its color of young wood in
winter is exceedingly attractive and pleasing. It groups
admirably with Pines.

Mulberry.—Morus.—Although not a tree of the highest type
of beauty, yet the native Mulberry is not inelegant, and
wherever it can be grown suecessfully, the great value of its
fruit adds much to recommend its adoption in forming groups of
deciduous trees, as it harmonizes. well with the Linden, Catalpa,
and some others of round heads and broad foliage. The variety
now well known as. Downing’s Everbearing isa hardy as. any,
and its fruit is large and fine: with the addition of blossoming
and ripening a long time in succession. A rich, deep, loamy
soil, well drained, suits it best, and in the northern sections of
the Union it should be sheltered. from severe winds and strong
suns. Inthe Northern States it is unfitted for a street or park
trees, but in the Southern and Middle States both the Morus and

a

 

 
 

 

84 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

Broussonetia are valuable trees for such uses.

Mountain Ash.—Pyrus.—Among professional as well as
amateur planters, the European Mountain Ash is a deserved and
general favorite. Its white flowers in the month of May,
profusely spread out over its surface in thick, flat clusters,
followed by bunches of round scarlet berries in autumn, and
which if not destroyed or eaten by birds often hang on a great
part of winter, making the tree highly ornamental when planted
by itself, and still more so when it is the foreground of. a cluster
of Spruces or Pines. It does not grow of sufficient size for a
street or park tree, but for small grounds, narrow roads and
parks in cemeteries it is admirably adapted. It may be, and
usually is, grown with a single stem with its branches thrown
out at three or four feet from the ground, but on lawns or grass
plots, and as connected with evergreens, it is much handsomer if
permitted to throw out a number of stems directly from the ,
crown. The American variety does not make quite as large a
tree as the European, but it is more abundant in its flowers and
fruits) The Sorb or Service tree (Pyrus Domestica), and the
White Beam (Pyrus Vestita), the Pyrus Hybrida, and the Pyrus
Quercifolia, with a' number of dwarf and variegated foliaged
varieties, are all of value.

 Oak.—Quercus.—The Oak is a tree of song and tradition, but
the difficulty of transplanting it after it has acquired a suitable
size for position. Downing says of it that “to arrive at its
highest perfection, ample space on every side must be allowed,”
and where such position can be given itin public or private
grounds we should plant it; but in small suburban and village
home grounds there are no such places, and their owners must
be content with trees of a less historical or poetical interest. Of
the varieties most ornamental, we enumerate the Rock Chestnut
Oak (Quercus Prinus Monticola), Chestnut White Oak (Q.
Prinus Palustris), the Yellow Oak (Q. Prinus Acuminata), the
Pin Oak (Q. Palustris), the Willow Oak (@Q. Phellos), the Over-
cup White Oak (@Q. Macrocarpa), the Scarlet Oak ( Q. Coccinca.),
and English Oak (@. Robur). The Live Oak (Q. Virens) of the

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 35

 

South is beautiful and can be grown as a park tree, but it will
not endure the climate of the Northern States. The Cork Oak
(Q. Suber) is a very interesting and curious tree. If the
proprietor of a place has a desire for Oaks, our advice is to
prepare soil deep and rich, plant the acorns, staking around to
prevent injury to the yonng plant.

Osage Orange.—Maclura.—This plant or tree is generally
grown for the purpose of forming hedges, but when grown
singly it makes a tree of medium size, with a regular round
head, covered with clean glossy foliage and rich golden fruit, in
appearance resembling the orange of commerce. It is admirably
suited as a lawn tree for small plots and for grouping with
other round headed deciduous trees of larger growth. In this
latter position it should always be on the outside of the group.
It is a tree well suited for planting on the narrow avenues of
cemeteries, and for bold, rugged fronts of rocky banks. Upon
lawns of large extent an elegant monster shrub tree can be
created from the Osage Orange by annually heading it back
near to the ground until it is induced to send up a dozen leading
stems instead of one; these again, as they grow, want heading
back from year to year, until the plant becomes a gigantic bush
rather than a tree.

Poplar.—Populus.—Many of the Poplars are valuable trees in
the decoration of scenery, but their use must be with moderation.
They are all of rapid growth and easily transplanted. The
Lombardy Poplar (Populus Dilitata) may often be introduced
with great effect, and again, two or three trees of it planted
directly in the rear of a building furnish a relief and back-
ground, adding greatly to appearance as a picture. When distant
views are desired, permission to plant one or two Lombardy
Poplars at or near the point will serve to attract the eye, and in
themselves add an air of admiration to the scene. It should
never be planted as a foreground tree. The Balsam Poplar
(Balsamifera) and the Balm of Gilead Poplar ( Candicans) very
much resemble each other in their rapid growth and spreading
habit, but their foliage is entirely distinct; the former having

 

 
 

 

 

. 86 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

lanceolate oval leaves, while the latter has very large, broad,
heart-shaped foliage,-and is much the more desirable. Both are
good for roadside trees or broad avenues, and their use in filling
up low grounds or bordering streams of water is always
satisfactory. As a background tree, covering and screening
barns or other farm buildings, the Balm of Gilead is very
effective. The Silver Poplar (Abele) is a tree remarkable for its
silvery white underside of foliage. It was once pretty generally
planted in lawns and groups, but its disposition to sucker makes
it objectionable. Asa tree to make conspicuous some particular
high point, or where possible, to form the foreground of a group
of dark firs, it is desirable and effective. “All the Poplars bear
the smoke and dust of cities with great indifference, and where
pavements will serve to keep down the suckers, they are desir-
able because of their extremely rapid growth, exceeding perhaps
that of any other tree.

Pepperidge.—Nyssa.—The Sour Gum or Pepperidge tree is
generally, when wild, found growing in moist or wet land, but it
will thrive in any good deep soil. The tree, from its dark green,
glossy foliage in summer and the brilliant fiery tinge which it
takes on when ripening its leaves, is extremely valuable for
forming groups in the picturesque style. A single tree of it
even, standing at some distance from the house and where its
brilliant autumn tints can be readily seen, often forms for weeks
a feature of beauty surpassing that of any other on the place.

Persimmon.—Diospyrus.—The Persimmon or Virginia Date
Plum. makes an open, irregular, half round-headed, rather erect
tree of pleasing character and of medium size, that fits it well for
grounds of limited extent. It groups well with the English
Elm, the Bird Cherry and others, and when the value.of its fruit
is regarded, deserves a place in almost all. grounds. In the
southern sections of Illinois, Missouri, etc., there are varieties
that ripen their fruits long before frosts, but the wild trees of its
northern limits generally produce an austere fruit, quite
uneatable until after being mellowed by frost. It is a good tree
for planting in cemeteries, and for rocky positions where a light,
wiry character is desired to be retained.

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 37

 

Paulownia.—Imperialis.—One of the finest of broad leaved
trees, and in latitudes south of 41° it produces a profusion of
purplish lilac flowers. North of 41° the tree is hardy, but the
bloom is often destroyed by cold.

Sassafras.—Laurus.—Strange as it may seem this beautiful,
fragrant, second-class growth of tree is rarely to be found in the
nurseries, and he who wants it must go to the woods and dig for
himself small plants. Asan open foreground tree for groups,
the glossy, deep green foliage of the Sassafras and its irregular
swaying branches make it especially desirable.

Tulip Tree.—Liriodendron.—The Tulip or Whitewood is one
of the most beautiful and stately of our native trees. It is a
rapid grower, erect, yet partially spreading, forming a regular,
even, conically round head, with a large, broad, rich, glossy leaf
and smooth, clean bark. Like the Magnolias, its roots are soft
and do not bear exposure to dry winds or sun when trans-
planting, and the planter must use care and attention in their
removal. For avenues, for public or private parks, for single
trces upon lawns, and especially for shade near the house, there
is no tree its superior. In the month of June its profusion of
large tulip-like flowers give it a richness and beauty all unlike
that of any other tree, and to our view only equalled by some of
the Magnolias. It requires a dry and deep rich soil in order to
develop its greatest beauty, but it will thrive in any good loam
where there is a perfect drainage.

Thorns.—Cratagus.—Of these second class trees, strictly
shrubs, there are many varieties beautiful in flower and varied in
foliage. They are of little value except when used in a hedge,
and here unfortunately the pruning seems in a few years to
destroy their vitality and they die out.

Walnut.—Juglans.—Under the name of Walnut we have the

‘ European Walnut and the Black Walnut of our forests. The
European Walnut is not hardy in our. Northern States. As an
ornamental tree South it makes a pleasing variety, because of
the contrast in its foliage with that of most other trees. The
Black Walnut—Juglans Nigra—makes a very rapid growth and

 

 

 
 

 

38 HAND—BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

‘becomes a very large and spreading tree. It is unsuited toany . Da :

but extensive grounds or farms.

Willow.—Salix.—There is a large variety of Willows, all of
narrow leaves and slender branches or spray. Aside from the
Weepers or Drooping, the Golden-barked is the only one of
value.

ORNAMENTAL DECIDUOUS SHRUBS.

In all grounds a well appointed and arranged shrubbery is a
most effective feature, and in grounds of smal extent, such as
the front gardens of suburban city lots, the use of shrubs or
trees of small growth is more to be commended than those of
a towering or large spreading habit. Just enough of large trees
should be planted to form necessary shade, and then the effect —
and general impression of beauty be created by the planting of
deciduous trees and evergreen shrubs. One of the most
important things in planting shrubs is to attend particularly to
the shades of green in foliage; another is an understanding of
_ soils in which they will grow and develop themselves most
luxuriantly. Even the effect of perspective may be eonsiderably
increased by the proper arrangement of trees. Shrubs whose
leaves are of a gray or bluish tint, when seen over or between
shrubs of a yellowish or bright green, will seem thrown into the:
distance. Those, again, with small or tremulous leaves should
be set over or before those with large, broad, fixed foliage.
Where the situation will permit, three or five Lilacs, or
Weigelas, or Tree Honey-suckles, or Japan Quince with
Forsythias and Deutzia Scabra, as a foreground, may be
grouped together.

“A shrubbery,” says Mr. Phillips, “should be planted as a
court or stage dress is ornamented, for general effect and not for
particular and partial impression. Boldness of design, which
seems to be more the offspring of Nature and chance than of art

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. ‘839

 

and study, should be attempted, but though boldness is what
the planter should aspire to, all harshness or too great abrupt-
ness must be avoided by a judicious mixture of plants whose
colors will blend easily.with one another.” The most beautiful
of shrubs should of course be planted in the most conspicuous
places, and the whole with respect to evergreens so arranged as
to contribute in making bright the gloom of winter, in reducing
and softening the glare of summer, and assist in lengthening the
season by their early flowers in spring and their ripening berries
in autumn.

CONDENSED DESCRIPTIONS OF ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

It is impossible for us to give full descriptions of all the
ornamental shrubs within the limits of what we design to make
a plain, cheap, practical work. We must therefore make
short descriptions of the leading shrubs, free of botanical names,
as follows: :

The Rose Acacia is an old shrub, with rose colored flowers in
July.

The Althea is a shrub from four to six feet in height, and
should be trimmed every spring.

The Alder has varieties, but its beauty is only developed in
low, damp grounds.

The Almond is a dwarf shrub, with flowers like double roses of
varied colors. :

The Azalea is known as the Swamp Pink or Swamp Honey-
suckle, and is generally planted with Kalmias and Rhodo-
dendrons.

The Amorpha isa shrub with long spikes of blue or purple
flowers. There are several varieties, but all like other shrubs
need severe annual pruning.

The Amelanchier, or more generally kndWwn as Shad Bush, in
early spring has white flowers covering the whole tree.

 

 
 

 

40 HAND—BOOK ‘OF PRACTICAL

The June Berry, a variety of the above, with white flowers in
pendulous racemes. A variety of this has wood of a dark red
or blood color.

The Barberry has many varieties which may be grouped
together with good effect.

The Buckthorn is one of the best of hedge plants, and quite
ornamental when planted singly.

The Buffalo Tree is a sexual plant, ornamental, with silvery
* foliage. Ifa half dozen of the female plants surround the male,
fruit is produced of value for tarts and exceedingly ornamental.

The Bladder Senna is a shrub of varied colors in its blossoms,
with balloon-like pods that follow the flowers.

The Bladder Nut has a profusion of white bell shaped flowers
early in sumimer. ,

The Clethra is an erect shrub, with spikes of white flowers
from July to September.

The Flowering Currant has many varieties. Gordon’s is the
best.

The Deutzia is alow growing shrub of great beauty.

The Golden Bell Shrub has several varieties, all producing
yellow bell-shaped flowers in spring.

The Hydrangea is generally of herbaceous character and
requires protection in winter, but there are some new varieties
of these that are exceedingly valuable.

The Upright or Tree Honeysuckle is one of the best flowenng
shrubs.

The Kelreuteria is a second class tree, a little tender, but
prominent as a novelty.

The Laburnum or Golden Chain is one of the most beautiful,
when in flower, ‘of the large‘shrubs.

‘The Lilac, known botanically as Syringa Vulgaris, is well-
known. It has a tendency to sucker, but a little attention from
year to :year will enfble the grower to keep it to a single stem,
and grouped with the Snow-ball, Red Bud, Purple Fringe, it is

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 41

 

of great beauty. Josiksea and Charles Xth have much the habit
of the old variety, but flowers of a different color. The Chinese
and Persian Lilacs are of a dwarf size, and suited to mingle with
Spruces.

The Mezereum isa small shrub of about two feet in height,
giving a profusion of pink or white flowers in early spring.

The Double Flowering Plum, like the Double Flowering Thorn,
is a compact, round headed large shrub of great beauty when in
bloom.

The Purple Fringe is one of the varieties of Rhus, of value
and beauty. It is known as Smoke Tree, Jews Beard, etc.

The Japan Quince has many varieties in colors, from white to
scarlet in its blooms. It will always find a place in all grounds,
as it is a beauty in itself.

The Red Bud or Judas Tree forms a low, round headed tree,
abounding in a profusion of pinkish red flowers in early spring,
and when planted where Evergreens make the background, it is
one of the valued second-class trees.

The Stuartia and Snow Berry are low shrubs of value.

The Strawberry Tree gr Burning Bush is a variety of beauty in
foliage and its fruit of a bright red, holding on nearly all winter.

The Sophora is a fine shrub south say of Philadelphia, north
of that it is only half hardy.

The Shrubby Spireas are all of value and beauty for gardens
or cemeteries. The following are, acccrding to the botanical
terms, among the best, viz.: Prunifolia Flore Pleno, Niconderti,
Thalactoides, Crenatu, Lanceolata Flore Plena, Callosa Alba and
Floribunda all have white flowers. The Bella, Nobleana, Excimia,
Callosa, Douglassii and Billardii all have pink or rosy fiowers.

The Snow Drop, botanically Halesia, is one of the most
beautiful of shrub trees. There are two varieties, a four-winged
and a two-winged, in flower. Their best position is as a fore-
ground of a group of Hvergreens.

The Sweet Scented Shrub is of low growth, with dark wood and
foliage, a chocolate colored flower highly perfumed.

 

 
 

 

42 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

The Syringa, or Mock Orange, is a well known old shrub of
varieties, among which the Garland, Gordons and Profuse
Flowering are among thé best. There are some dwarf varieties,

The Zamarisk is one of the most delicate and airy like in
appearance among shrubs. The African and Algiers are among
the hardiest.

The Weigela.—Among all the hardy flowering shrubs, intro-
duced within the past thirty years, this, as a class, takes a first
rank, It is of easy cultivation, suited to all soils. It bears
pruning freely, and may be grown as a bush or to a single stem.

The White Fringe Tree, or Virginia Snow Flower, is a shrub
or low tree, doing best in moist soil, producing a profusion of
drooping white flowers in early summer.

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 48

 

PLAN No. 1.

 

 

 

 

 

26 27 25
230 (24 25
i
22 20
h 19
18 17
16
15 14

 

This plan is for alot 80 by 150 feet and

..{0n a scale of 25 feet to the inch. The

house, as a main, is 20 by 82 feet, and
placed 2 feet from. the boundary line on
one side and 8 feet from the line on the
other side. The position of the rooms are
shown, also the chimney, which could have
three separate flues for fires from three
rooms. The hall and stairs are shown,
and the 16 feet long building in rear is
supposed to be used as a wood shed and
washing room. The well, marked with an
©, is on the side where driving may come,
while the cistern, marked ©, is where
water can be taken into three rooms.

The pathway to the door is shown on
the plan, and all the front aside from this,
as well as the wide space from the front to
rear of wood shed, should be kept in
grass.

Hedges of the various Evergreens, such
as the Hemlock, Norway Spruce, Arbor

Z| Vitex, etc, may be planted, if desired, on

each of the lines of boundary and in front,
except where the entrance way is, but they
should be kept yearly and properly pruned.
When the trees are planted they should be
mulched with litter, tan bark, etc., say two
| feet in diameter from the body.

 

The following numbers, with the names of trees, etc, all
attached, correspond with their places for growth on the map:

 

£

 
 

 

44

1—Cembrian Pine,
2—Magnolia Glanca.
8—American White Sprace.
4—Austrian Pine.
5~—Dwarf Horse Chestnut.
6—Magnolia Purpurca.
7—Strawberry Tree.
8—Purple Fringe.
9—Japan Quince.
10—This is, designed for a bud of flowers of
sorts, Lilacs, Geraniums, Tea Roses, Bourbon
Roses, Lantanas, Verbenas, etc., such as may
please the taste of the owner and yct be in
bloom most of the season. A good effect is to
raise the rear of the bed next the house to the
‘upper tier of the underpinning, then make it
a rolling grade down to the turf. Then place
here and there a broken stone of varicd color,
filing in and around them with good soil from
the woods, and then plant the American Ivy or
Virginia Creeper, varieties of Hardy Clematis

HAND—BOOK OF PRACTICAL

and Trailing Junipers for the purpose of
keeping a green show in winter.

11—Tom Thumb, or come vther dwarf sort cf
Arbor Vitzx.

12, 12—Two varieties of Apples, grown as
dwarfs. :

18—Red Jacket Cherry.

14—Rockport Cherry.

15—Early Richmond Cherry.

16—Black Tartarian Cherry.

17—Early York Peach.

18—Old Mixon Free Peach.

19—Crawford’s Early Peach.

20 to 25—Varieties of Dwarf Pears as follows:

1 Beurre Giffart. 1 Bartlett.
1 Duchess d’Angouleme. 1 Tyson.
1 Beurre d’ Anjou.
26, 27 and 28—Grapes :
1 Concord. 1 Delaware.

1 Hartford Prolific.
29, 29—Quinces.
30,30—Rows for Currants or other small fruita

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 45

PLAN No. 2.

This plan is made only to show
how a place may be improved. Scale
25 feet to the inch. The house being
already built and fronting 20 feet
back from the street line, one side is -
so near the adjoining line that the
| drip of the eaves really falls upon
| other property, while on the other
I _ Side there is but just good room fora
carriage or cartway, for delivery of
u | coal, etc, say 12 feet. The distance
in the rear of the house is near 50
feet, with little or nothing now upon
it but an outhouse or privy. We
commence the improvement of this
plan from the: rear, and shall give a
fair estimate of the cost.

  
  

 

In this, as in all planting, our ad-
vice is never to buy large, tall trees,
but take stocky, well branched 8nes,
three to five feet in height.

1, 1—Quinces.
2, 2—-Dwarf Apples trees or varieties :
1 Red Astrachan.
1 Duchess of Uldenburgh.
8, 3, 8, 3—4 Concord Grape Vines on trellis or stakes
No arbor.
4, 4—2 Hartford Prolific Grapes.
5, 5-2 Delaware Grapes.
6—1 Martha,
%—1 Telegraph. All the Grapes to be trained on

 

 

 

 

 

 

Laue =a 13 | wires or stakes.
8—Early Richmond Cherry. 11—Black Tartarian Cherry.
9—Rocekport Cherry. 12—Row of Currants.
10—Six Dwarf Pears, as follows : 18—Red Jacket Cherry.
1 Beurre Giffart. 1 Bartlett. X—This cross indicates places for Gooseberry
1 Duchess d’Angouleme. 1 Rostiezer. Bushes.

1 Louise Bonne de Jersey. 1 Beurre d’Anjou.

 

 
 

46 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

Estimates of value of good trees for this planting at regular

retail rates of the best nurserymen :

  

 

 

  

2 Apple-or Orange Quinte: .1vsi.isss vexsaysens seers ennenesenos $ 1.00
2 Dwarf Apples...........sscvcccncccccccescccereneece 60
10 Grape Vines ....... .ccecccssccvcrecccrencacenccccteeres 5.00
A CHEIrrI€B. ....... ccc sccer ccc cneencrccesseesepesecasecee 2.00
6 Dwarf Peare.........ccscccccccnneccecccccscnsconss ons 3.00
12 Currants..........ceeecees « ra easter tats Peer rere rer 2.00
I2OORENEITICR 1, 2see ven ssserererewenane ales avaistcra etd ateicpreareeatareia totsharets 2.00
$15.60
Doubtless from 10 to 20 per cent. less would fill
this order, if given to a responsible Nurseryman.
Labor of planting. ..........-cscceces cece ness even eenasecnsancsens 3.00
TOCA cess dszyeceiersevevarh’aact-scorcsive frsten ioruisfevesarevoraseoa’ejsisvesebiotereimjarwarausie sicie $18.00

Now we will take the arrangements of the foreground.

No. 20 is designed for planting of hardy flowering shrubs, and
the numbers in this block have no reference to the rear of the
house, but each has the name of the plants to be there placed :

1—Red-fruited Berberry. here and there a single one. Arrange it
2—Euonymous or Strawberry Tree. 80 that they shall not be on a level, but a
3—Weigela Rosea. broken line. Now fillin among the stones
4—Variegated Wiegela. along the Jine with creeping hardy vincs,
5—Wiegela Amabilis, both Evergreen and Summer Flowering,
6—Gordon‘s Syringa. being careful to have some of the Ampu1-
i—Spirea Lanceolata, fil. plena. opsis or Virginia Crecper. the Wistaria and
8—Spirea Revesii Cobusta. Clematis Virginica. Use the best of light
9—Deutzia Crenata, flora plena, rich loam for the planting of the vines
10—Magnolia Rubra. along the line. It would also improve
11—Deutzia Gracilis. their growth were the ground along the
12—Hydrangea Paniculata Grandifiora. line deeply dug and richly manured be-
18—Variegated-leaved Dogwood. fore placing the stones and plants.
14—Tledge of Norway Spruces. 16—Purple-leaved Maple.
15—Along this front line have it raised afoot 17%—Bed for flowering plants, such as Roses,
or more higher than the sidewalk, and with a Geraniums, Lantanas, Lilies, Heliotrope,
rolling bank. Then gather rough boulders, Caleus, Verbenas, Sweet Alysum, Tube-
broken stones of color, lay them along, two and roses, Salvias, etc.

three in one place and five in another, with

Should this property change hands and the coming man wish
to have a barn and keep his own carriage and horses, the
entrance road now proposed to be kept in grass might be
graded, and position for the barn be made by simply removing
some dwarf pears,—a tree that can at any age be transplanted
successfully.

 

 
 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

47

 

 

MX X X43
42

42
4lXX XX X41
4AIXX X X4l

40 40

40 40
29

28

H

E

20X20
c

PLAN No. 3.

GARDEN

BARN
30X40

32
34

35

F | 36

20X24R 37

H

38

To
pier '8

I

 

This is designed for a gen-
tleman’s suburban residence,
and embraces 100 feet front
upon the street with 800 feet
in depth of lot.

The ground plan of the
house is our own, and the
structure of it we design to
be of a plain substantial struc-
ture, with no attempt at
Italian, Doric, Norman, Gothie
Grecian or any other specific,
distinct order. Taking the
ground plan as presented, it
will be seen that we have not
made it to work from, for we
have not shown how closets
and shelves can be made and
incorporated in the walls with-
out disfiguring the rooms and
adding greatly to the expense
of construction. We design
it to have a basement for
coal, ete, and to be two
stories high, with a Mansard
roof as an attic, and we ad-
vise whoever may build from
suggestions herein, to have a
“Porte Cochen” or covered
archway, for the getting in
and out of the carriage. We
have made no provision for
the bath room on the first
floor, believing that should be
on the sleeping or second floor.

 

 
 

 

48

HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

The numbers given in this schedule of explanation have each
the variety or tree plant, and correspond with the numbers on

the plan.

The scale of the drawing or design is 50 feet to the inch:

1, 1—Purple leaved Maples.

2—Curled: Ash-leaved Maple.
8—Crested-leaved Beech,

4—Fern-leaved Beech,

5-—Dwarf Birch.

6—Cut-leaved Alder.

%—Dwarf Hybrid Mountain Ash.
8&—Norway Spruce ( Var Kacelsa. Pygmea.)

9—Norway Spruce (Var Hacelsa Mucronata.)
10—Norway Sp-uce (Var Tortuosu Compacta.)

11—Hemlock Dwarf (Var Canadensis. Nana.)
12—Purple-leaved Beech.
13—Purple-leaved Elm.
14—Tom Thumb Arbor Vite.
15—Tulip Tree.
16—Weeping Birch (Var Hlegans Pendula.)
17—Magnolia Soulangeana.
18—White Double Flowering Horse Chestnut.
19—Magnolia Glauca.
20—White-leaved Linden.
21—Ash-jeaved Maple.
22—Lobels Maple,
23—Cembrian Pine,
24—Cnt-leaved Weeping Birch.
25—White or Weymouth Pine.
26—Nordmann’s Silver Pir.
27—Hemlock.
28—Austrian Pine.
29—Magnolia Acuminata,
30—Norway Spruce.
81—Imperial Cut-leaved Alder;
82—Scotch Pine,
38—Purple-leaved Berberry.
84—Norway Spruce.
85—American Silver Fir,
36—Siberian Arbor Vita.
8%—Pinus Pumila.
88—Pinus Mugho Rotundata,
89—Pinus Mugho.
40—Varieties of Sweet Cherries:
Black Tartarian. Rockport.
Red Jacket, Elton.
Early Purple Guigne.
41—Dwarf Pears of varieties :

Beurre Giffart. Bartlett.

Clapp’s Favorite. Rostiezer.
Belle Imerative. Tyson.
Duchess d’Angouleme. Howell.
Louise Bonne de Jersey. Sheldon.
Conseiller de la Cour. Beurre d’Anjon.
Doyenne du Comice.
42—Rows of Grapes.

43—Dwarf Apples.
The varieties to fill these two last fruits is
left to please the taste of the planter or
owner of the land.

44—Thie bed is designed to be filled with
hardy flowering shrubs, from the front
corner of the house back. Place the tall-
est and strongest growers at the back end
and so along the line next the house, then
tone down toward the path with those of
more slender growth ; and in trimming
yearly, cut so as to keep a rolling line
from the house to the path, all the time
keeping the rear end the highest. That
portion of this bed we should plant with
Tulips, Lilies, Hyacinths and Crocus, and
in summer, after the early fiowers are
gone, put in Tuberoses, Verbenas, or any
other small plants that must die or be
taken out in autumn, when the bed wanta
a mulch covering of good leafy loam.

45--This bed may be planted partly with
herbaceous Peonies, and then the Sweet
Peas, Lantanas and many other summer
flowering plants may be worked in for the
late season.

46—Is abed for Roses, Geraniums and any
other free blooming and beautiful flower-
ing plants the owner may choose. In the
autumn it may be filled with any small
and cheap plants of Evergreens to keep
free from view the bare ground. The
surrounding of the.roots of the trees, say
four feet in diameter, should have a
mulch of some kind. for two or three
years, and then all but the flowering
shrubbery beds and fruit garden may be
kept in turf.

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING 49

 

PLAN Na. 4.

134 33 32 3! }

a 23 24 25 26

18 "22
21
Is '
I7 20.
14 Is i9+
x
. x

 

  
   
   

 

 

 

 

7
es: & °
9 2

I 8

 

2oxie {30 29 28 27

SCALE, 30 FEET TO. ONE INCH.

| This plan is for a lot 50 by 150
ffeet. The main of the house is 36
by 24 feet, two stories high, with a
wing of one story, 12 by 28 feet,
rand a kitchen of 16 by 20 feet in
the rear of the main. building. The
height of stories may and must be
governed by the builder. We sug-
gest, however, that the lower story
be twelve feet high and the upper
eight feet. The kitchen may be
carried up with the main building,
and if widened to its width would
make a good wash room and also a
storage room. The main hall could
be let into it four feet, and then a
side door connecting with a path
outside, as here shown, only spread
out to meet the spread of the build-
}ing. The porch in front of the
main building is 8 feet, and its. style
must correspond with the balance
of the building. A bay window is
placed to light the front room in the

 

wing, and the chimneys marked,

except the kitchen, where a brick flue will be needed from first
ceiling. The barn. we have calculated only for a single horse
and buggy, but it, of course, can be enlarged.

 

 
 

50 HAND—BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

In the planting of the grounds the numbers on the plan
correspond with the following schedule list. In this we have
not calculated for vegetable growing, believing fruit to be more

 

profitable and more difficult to purchase than vegetables.
The drive or carriage way shows a landing at the porch, and

then again at the side hall door.

In the planting of this design we have only given the front as
the decorative portion, giving all the balance to such fruits as it

is difficult to purchase in good order at reasonable rates.

At the

same time we have tried to include some that we count as better
gathered from the vine or plant than those of the same in

market:

1—Purple-leaved Maple.

2—Purple-leaved Elm.

3—Indian Birch (Bhojputtra.)

4—Cnt-leaved Weeping Birch.

5—Oak-leaved Mountain Ash,

6-—-Birch.—Variety, Hlegans Pendula.

%—Tom Thumb Arbor Vite.

8—Pinus Pumilo.

9—Norway Spruce (Var Tortuosa Compacta.)
10—This bed, (the form of which is outlined,)

should be planted with Lilies, Tulips, Hya-.

cinths and other bulbs for early spring bloom-
ing; then afterwards fill in with Verbenas,
‘Geraniums, Sedums, Ivies, and various
annuals, such as Balsams, Sweet Peas, Mignion-
ette, Alyssum, etc. At cach post of the porch
there should be planted a climbing plant. The
following are four valuable hardy varieties,
viz.: American Ivy o1 Virginia Creeper,
Clematis Virginiana, Periploca Graca or Vir-
ginia Silk, Wistaria.

11—This bed should be planted with hardy,
low growing, flow.ring shrubs, such as the Ber-
berry, Calycanthus, Corchorus, Gordon’s Flow-
ering Currants, Deutzias of varieties, Forsythla,
Hydrangea Paniculata, Persian or Chinese
Dwarf Lilacs, Purple Flowering Magnolia,
Spireas, and one or two of Weigelas’. The dis-
tance apart in planting should be two io two
and one-half feet, and each year the plants
should be pruned back from half to two-thirds
of the year’s growth.

12—This bed should have Crocus and Narcis-
sus bulbs for early spring blooms, then be filled
with Geraniums and Tuberoses intermixed.

18—This bed should be filled with perpetual
blooming roses of varieties. Itshould be
dug very deep, at least two feet, and
filled in, as a mixture with the earth.
with decomposed or old rotten manure.
The plants may be set eighteen inches to
two feet apart.

14—Rockport Cherry.

15—Black Tartarian Cherry.

16—Red Jacket Cherry.

17—Elton Cherry.

18—Early Richmond or Louis Phillip Cherry.

19—Early York Peach.

20—Old Mixon Freestone Peach.

21—Crawford’s Early Peach.

22—Ward’s Late Freestone Peach.

23 to 30—Dwarf Pears as follows, viz. :
Beurre Giffart. | Bartlett.
Duchesse d’Angouleme, Tyson.
Beurre d’Anjou. Beurre Diel.

Louise Bonne de Jersey.

31 to 34—Dwarf Apples as follows :

Red Astrachan. Gravenstein.
Large Sweet Bough. Fameuse.

X, X—The rows with crosses drawn over the
lines are for grapes, the Concord, Hart-
ford Prolific, Telegraph and Martha, each
planted 8 feet apart in the row. Dela-
ware, Iona, Mottled, Croton, Lydia and
Rebecca may be planted 6 feet apart in
the rows.

 

 
 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

51

 

 

PLAN No. 5.

 

64+

     
  

St} 50 49 48 47 46
45 44 43 42

Al

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scag, 40 FEET TO ONE INCH.

 

 
 

52 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

This plan is made to fit a corner lot where the streets do not
run at right angles with each other. The front is supposed to
be upon the main travelled street, and is 100 feet. The side
street, where we enter by carriage, may be new and as yet little
built upon, but time makes many changes. The depth of the
lot is supposed to be 200 feet, and while the ground plan of the
house shows the size and position of the rooms, no porch or
“Porte Cochen” has been planned, but any good architect can
add it, according to the style of architecture. In planning
the house, we have looked forward to the builder making it two

 

stories high, with a basement or cellar for storage.

The barn,

20 by 40 feet, we leave for whoever uses this to arrange accord-

ing to his wants.

As with all of the other plans the figures on the ground
correspond with this schedule, of what to plant and where:

1—Cnut-leaved Beech.
2—Slender Twigged Elm (Var. Campestris
Viminalis.)
8—Purpie-lcaved Maple.
4—Red Flower‘ng Horse Chestnut.
5—Deutzia Crenata, flore pleno.
6—Deutzia Gracilis.
%—Persian White Lilac.
8—Magnolia Obovata.
9—Hydrangea Paniculata Grandijiora.
10—Dwarf White Horse Chestnut, (Pavia
Macrostachya.
11—Scarlct Japan Quince.
12—Euonym:is or Strawberry Tree.
13—Gordon’s Flowering Currant.
14—Pink Flowcring Upright Honeysuckle.
15—Desbuis’ Weigela.
16—Spirea Fximca.
1%—Weigela (Var Hortensis Nivea.)
18—Spirca, Douglassii.
19—Spirea, Prunifolia, flore pleno.
20—Pink Flowcring Upright Honeysuckle.
(Var Pulverulenta.) ;
21—Calycanthns, or Sweet Scented Shrub.
22--Norway Spruce, of a drooping character,
28—Weeping Birch (B. Elegans Penduia.)
24—Magnolia Soulangiana.
25—Salisburia Adiantifolia.
26—Whiterleaved Linden,

‘

27—Rockport Cherry.

28—Elton Cherry.

29—Black Tartarian Cherry.

380—Red Jacket Cherry.”

31—American White Spruce.

82—Pinus Mugho,

838—Tom Thumb Arbor Vite.

34—Norway Spruce ( Var Excelsa Inverta.)

35—Pinus Pumitio.

26—This bed (shown in outline) shotld be
planted with hardy bulbs for spring
bluoming, and on their decay, annual
flowers of varieties, Verbenes, etc., may
take their place for balance of the scason.

37—This bed is to be filled with varieties of
perpetual roses.

88—This bed to be planted with Heliotropes,
Geraniums, Tuberoses, etc., intermingled.

89—Plant this bed with Herbaceous Peonias,

Phloxes, Campanulas, Dicentra, Iris,
Liatris, Spircas and other hardy her-
baceous plants.

40—Austrian Pine.

41—Early Richmond or Lonis Phillipe Cherry

42 to 45—Dwarf Apples of variety.

46 to 63—Dwarf Pears of varieties, eight feet
apart each way.

64—Rows for Grapes, eight feet apart each
way.

 

 
 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

53

 

 

PLAN No. 6.

 

 

 

 

 

SSS “15
\7 is Bis © ts

 

 

 

 

ScaLe, 60 FEET TO ONE INCH.

 

 
 

 

54 HAND-—BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

In this we only show the arrangement of the foregrounds to
the rear of the house. We have made no plan for the building,
but have left 40 by 80 feet for its base, and have so planned the
drive ways that it can be entered from any side.

The plan may be used for level ground, but often there is a
rise of ground between the front and rear of the lot, and often
this rise obstructs a fine rear view from the front lawn, unless it
is graded to meet the level of the lawn upon the side where there
is the most space. Should any one adopt this plan, having
rising grounds on the position of the house, then we should
advise him to grade only so as to make his drive ways level and
easy of travel.

We have designed this for any place varying from 5 to 500
acres, giving the width of front 200 feet and the position of the
house back from the main road 165 feet.

We have made no note of fruit trees in the planting, for few,
if any, can be judiciously and tastefully mingled with the
strictly ornamental.

The numbers on the plan correspond with the numbers given
in the following schedule, and to each number we designate the
name of the plant or tree, or give the class as a group.

We commence with the immediate front. All the space
between the house and roads should be kept in clean turf. A
hedge of Norway Spruce or Arbor Vite may be planted on each
of the side borders of the lot here designed :

1—Hedge of Hemlock. 16—Cornus or Dogwood (Var Mascuwla.)

2—Pavia Carnea Superba. 1%—Purple-leaved Maple.

8—Pavia Carnea Pubesceus. 18—Purple-leayed Maple.

4—Pavia Purpurca. 19—Mountain Ash.

5—Pavia Rubra. 20—Weeping Linden.

6—Pavia Rubra Atrosanguinea, 21—Weeping Beech.

%—Pavia Flava, 22—Cut-leaved Weeping Birch.

8—Trefoil Tree, 28—W ceping Poplar.

9—Sumach (Var Glabra Laciniata.) 24—Weeping Mountain Ash.
10—Sumach (Var Osbeckti.) 25—Camperdown Weeping Elm.
11—Prunus Triloba, 26—Cork-barked Weeping Elm.
12—Double Flowering Sloe Plum. 2%—~Dwarf Weeping Cherry (Pumila.)
18—Halesia Tetraptera. 28—Ever-flowering Weeping Cherry (Var
14—Euonymus or Strawberry Tree, Semperfiorens.)

15—Five varieties of Amorpha or Bastard 29—European Weeping Ash.
Indigo. 80—Gold-barked Weeping Ash.

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

’ 55

 

81—Weeping Birch, Var Elegans Pendula.
82—Weeping Euonymous, Var Pendula.
88—Variegated Weeping Thorn.
84—Weeping Honey Locust, Var. Bujoté
Pendula.
35—Weeping Larch.
386—American Weeping Willow.
87—Weeping Scotch Elm, Var. Montana Pen-
dula.
88—Young’s New Weeping Birch.
39-—-Small-leaved Weeping Elm, Var. Micro-
phylla Pendula.
40—Magnolia Acuminata,
41—Tulip Tree.
42—European Sycamore Map\e.
43—Sweedish Juniper.
44—American Spruce,
45—Austrian Pine.
46—Norway Spruce.
4%—Collection of Weigelas, planted three feet
each way, within the form of the outlined
bed.
48—Collection of Lilacs, two to three feet
apart each way, according to habit of growth.
49—Collection of Spireas and Deutzias,
planted from two to three feet apart, according
to habit of growth.
50—Herbaceous Peonias in varieties, planted
two feet apart.
61—Tree Peonias, varieties from 2}¥ to 3 feet
apart each.
52, 52—Norway Spruces.
53—Staphylea or Bladder Nut.
54—-Purple Fringe.
55—Gordon's Syringa. a
56—Large Flowered Syringa.
5%—Hoary-leaved Syringa.
58—White Fringe Tree.
59—High or Bush Cranberry, Var. Oxycoccus.
60—Snow Ball, Viburnum Opulus. -
61—Snow Ball, Var Anglicum.
62—Snow Ball, Var Pyrifolium.
683—Snow Ball, Var Rugosom.
64—Snow Ball, Var Prunifolium.
65—Snow Ball, Var Lantanoides.
66—Snow Ball, Var Plicatum.
67—American Arbor Vitex.
68—Corsican or Norway Pine.
69—Austrian Pine.
%0—White Pine.
1—Cembrian Pine.
%2—Scotch Pine.
%3—Red Bird or Judas Tree.
%4—American White Spruce, Abies Alba.
%5—American Red Spruce, Abies Rubra.
%6—Dwarf White Pine, Strobus Nana.
"7’—Balsam Fir.
%&—Lawson’s Cypress.
79—Hemlock.

’

80—Banksian Pine,

81—European Silver Fir.

82—Nootka Sound Cypress or Thujopsis
Borealis.

83—Siberian Arbor Vite.

84—Arbor Vite, Var Gigantea.

85—Arbor Vits, Var Globosa.

86—Salisburia Adiantifolia.

87—Oak-leaved Mountain Ash.

88--Double-flowering White Horse Chestnut.

89—English Elm.

90—Serrated-leaved Elm.

91—Slender Twigged Elm,

92—Elm, Var Stricta Oxontense.

98—Magnolia Glauca. *

94—Plant this bed with Hybrid Perpetual
Roses of varieties. Dig the ground deep,
and make it rich.

95—This bed is for Geraniums, Heliotropes,
etc., etc.

96—Make this bed deep and rich. Plant in

» it Japan Lilies, Tulips, Hyacinths, etc.,
and as the spring blooms fade, put in
Verbenas or any free blooming, tender
plant. .

97—In this bed mingle Tea and Bourbon
Roses with varieties of the rare and
beautiful Clematis.

98—Imperial Cut-leaved Alder.

99—Tom Thumb Arbor Vite.

100—Chinese Golden Arbor Vite. Variety
Aurea.

101—Oval bed infront of house. The outer
line, marked @, should be planted with
Juniperus Repens, once in three feet and
and one foot back of the edge all around
the oval. The center of this bed should
be raised one foot above the edge. The
next planting should be inside of the
above two feet, of Juniperus Nana, one
in two feet. Next inside plant Juniperus
Squamaia, same as others. In the center
of this oval plant one Abies Emcelsa
Pygmea, and at each end plant an Abies
Tortuosa Compacta, then fill the remain-
ing space with Abies Nigra Pumila.

102—If the planter resides where the Yew is
hardy, plant this bed with varieties of
that Evergreen shrub. If the Yew is not
hardy, then fill this bed with plants of
the Dwarf Hemlock variety, Abies Cana-
densis Nana.

103—In this bed place the Dwarf White Pine,
—Pinus Strobus Nana—in the center,
three plants on the long line three feet
apart; then plant the Pinus Mugho
Rotundata, ray three plants, and make up
the balance with Pinus Mugho.

 
o

 

 

56 HAND-—BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

Landscape or Home Adornment.

Dipping into my portfolio a few days since, and looking over
sketches’ of plans that I -had made for various gardens, it
occurred to me that perhaps some of these skeleton plans might
be of use in communicating ideas for working up some new
place about to be created by a reader of rutal art, and therefore
I have transcribed and here offer two of them.

As the style of the house, architecturally; as well as the
association of the neighboring lots, has much to do with the kind
of trees to be planted, I have omitted any detail, because such
detail would be of little or no avail. I will merely say that if
the house is a square character, with a flat roof and standing on
nearly level land, then the prevailing character of the trees
should be of a round-headed habit; but if the house is of a
pointed gothic, or with many broken yet harmonious lines, and
its location on some elevated position, then spiral and pointed
trees should be largely introduced, and especially near the
house.

This was designed for a lot the elevation of which at the house
is some six feet or more above the grade at the public street, and
the house situated about two hundred and fifty feet back there-
from.

The owner of this desired as few paths and roads as could be,
and meet the actual daily travel demand. Neither did he want
provision for many flower-beds, as he only kept one man to care
for horses, garden and all work. The beds next the publie road
are designed to be planted with flowering shrubs, in order to
break a little the lawn from open exposure. So the bed on the
right of entrance footpath is to be planted with shrubs, and also
that where the carriage-road comes near the boundary to the left.

 

 
 

 

ae

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 57

 

 
 
  

~ The beds near the house in
& front are filled with low trail-
—gaf| ing Evergreens, as Daphne
Cneorum, Juniperus Squam-
, ata, Repens, etc., while the
g# bed on the left of the foot-
=| path is planted with hardy
Perpetual Roses and _ tree
Peonias, keeping the flower-
=| garden proper up near the
# house and immediately in
view of the drawing-room bay
window. As most of the land-
ing is at the rear hall door,
the turn-way is thrown in
there, and a hedge borders the
road on one side, separating
it from the fruit or vegetable
garden, barn, etc., beyond.

 

The foregoing was designed
worked out, written upon and
i published some years ‘since,
but as the generality of the plan has met favor with many of
those who have employed me in my profession, I decide to
include it in this work.

The illustrations of trees in the plan ‘will give to any sensible
man an idea of what they are, while the text above tells of
where to plant flowering shrubs, and of course the flower garden
will be changed almost yearly by those who reside upon the
place

 

 

 
 

 

58 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

 

Fie. 8.— WALKS, ETC.—GRouUND PLAN.

For a plot with parallel boundary lines, the. accompanying
design (fig. 8) is one of the simplest and yet most effective which
I have ever seen. By examining, it will be observed that the
center is a simple circle from which four beds are formed, and
from outside of that the paths and beds are made to accom-
modate natural lines of travel, which the position of the house,
being on the side where stands the vase, and the opening in the
opposite hedge seems to demand. Planting these separate beds
with masses of flowers, each of a distinct color, produces a
constant feature of interest and attraction. The shaded line is a
hedge, having a passway to visit the next occupant of a lot

 

 
 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 59

 

 

 

 

Fig. 9.—Virw oF GROUNDS.

Fig. 9 shows what we have done around an irregular formed
artificial pond in six years from planting. Serre a

 

 
 

 

60 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

     
   

      
 

  

ital
i if
iia | i \

iin
i

i
Ht
f
i

 

 

Fie. 10.—FounTAIN.

‘As I have said that a fountain may be had ata little cost
beyond that of the pipes and their laying, and at the same time
be made to harmonize with tree and surrounding, I offer the
illustration, fig. 10, which is simply varied pieces of rock laid up
around the center pipe, and having a wire-work frame, into the
meshes of which are woven various colored stones as the basin
orurn, A circular pipe surrounds it, over which is laid a pave-
ment of stone in mosaic work, and from between which
numerous smaller jets of water arise. In the plinth of the
structure, amid the rocks, ferns and water-plants are planted.
The mosaic pavement is level with the surrounding turf, with
just sufficient dip toward the center to draw the waste water,
which passes off by means of a pipe beneath,

 

 
wy

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING, 61

 

*

PLAN No. 9.

Scang, 40 FEET TO ONE INCH.—LorT 100 By 200 FEET.

 

 

2 Plan 9 is for a lot

100 by 200 feet. The
scale on which it is
drawn is 40 feet to the
inch. The main floor

 
 
    

  

                       
   
     
    

ES
=

wn

fig Cee eee

sof gn@ at ae F
aa as€ as 8.

=

Mn

40 feet, with a rear
5 addition of 20 by 20
feet. The doorways
_ | are marked DJ and the
As windows W, except

two bay windows,
1 which any intelligent

   
  

(iia carpenter will readily
“|note. We have
B16
planned :
Vii) _-Riichen... ...... 16x20
208 C—Closet............ 458
B—Bedroom.... 14x20

D—Dining Room..... bed
148. 198 —Jiving Room.....
P—Parlor'c..jcice aver 1
< 2A. at 4x20
A porch of 8 feet
wide should face the

main front of 86 feet.

 

 

 

The figures in the
following schedule
correspond with the

figures on the plan:

=

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

62 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

7

1—Double White Flowering Horse Chestnut. 45—Early Purple Guigne Cherry.
2—Purple leaved Elm (Var. Stricta Pur- 46—Early Richmond Cherry.

purea.) 4i—Black Tartarian Cherry.
8—Purple-leaved Maple. 48—Red Jacket Cherry.
4—Red Flowering Horse Chestnut. 49—Dwarf Apple, variety Tetofsky on Para-
| §—Birch (Var. Alba Fastigiata.) dise Stock.
6—Elm (Var. Campestris Pyramidalis.) GQ_This indicates the position of Dwarf
%—Amcrican White Spruce. Pears. Varieties to suit the planter.
8—Amcrican Red Spruce. g2—These indicate positions for grapes.
9—Austrian Pine. Varieties to please the owncr. c
10—White or ‘Weymouth Pine. Gooseberries and Currants may be planted, if
11—Norway Spritce. desired, under the shade of the Cherries,
12—Red Bird or Judas Tree. being careful not to plant nearer than eix
18 -—Euonymus or Strawberry Tree. feet from the bodies of the trees.
14—Purpie Fringe. 50, 50—The two beds in front of the porch
15—Bladder Senna or Colutea. should have the front line planted with
16—Keelreuteria. Juniperus epens, then immediately back
1%—Scotch Laburnum. of that, at a Gistancc of one foot from the
18—Magnolia Purpurca. « plants of Repens, plant the Juniperus
19—Doub!e Flowering Plum. Nana. Then fill the balance with one
20—Snow Drop or Silver Bell (Halesia Tet- plant each of the fullowing named varie
raptera.) ties of Dwarf Evergreens, giving cach
21—Hydrangea Paniculata. plant a cistance of two feet from its
22—Scarlct Japan Quince. neighbor: Zhuja Ericoides, Tom Thumb,
23—Syringa Gordoniana. Biota Compacta, Aurea and Pygmea,
24—Forsythia Viridissima. Abies Excelsa Elegans, Gregorii, Excelsa,
25—G.rdon’s Flowering Currant. Mucronata end Tortuosa Compacta, Dwart
26—Persian and Chinese Lilacs, each two Hemlock, (Canadensis Nana,) the Yew,
fect apart. (Taxus Adpressa and Ericoides,) then
27—Deutzias of varieties, with Daphne Mahonia Aquifolia, Berberis Darwinii,
Mezereon, the latter and Deutzia.Gracilis being Tree Box, Cotton Taster and Evergreen
in the front. Thorn, Crategus Pyracantha. At each
20—Upright Honeysuckles, Clethra, Stuartia post of the porch wires should be placed
and Calycanthue are to fill this group. Place six inches out from them, and one vine
the strongest growers in the rear. each of the following climbers, planted
29—Spireas, both shrubs and herbaceous. and trained there, viz.: American Ivy,
380—Flowering Lilies, Tulips, Hyacinths, Clematis Virginiana, Wistaria Sinensis
Tube Roses, etc. and Lonicera Hallieana.
31—Weigelas of varieties. 51—Plant with Geraniums, Heliotropes, Lan-
82—Tulip Tree. tanas and other tender flowering plants
83—Pinus Mugho. for the summer. Have ready to take
34—Juniperus Squamata. from a place in the rear ground some
85—Pinus Pumilio. small plants of Evergreens and place
36—Corsican or Norway Red Pine. them here for the winter, or obtain lead-
37—Cembrian Pine. ing stems from the tops or branches of
88, 88—Norway Spruces. old Evergreen trees and stick them in the
39—Cut-leaved Weeping Birch. earth to show a green feature during the
40—Scotch Pine. winter.
41—Magnolia Soulangeana.,, 52, 52—These two beds are designed for
42—Magnolia Glauca. ever blooming roses. They should be
48—Rockport Cherry. planted 18 inches to two feet apart,

44—Elton Cherry. according to their habit of growth.

 

 
 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING,

63

 

PLAN No. 11.

 

 

 

  
  
 

02 10!
a RESERVE
100 3, | oR GARDEN GROUNDS
99 ag —
g 9
37 BARN.
JI 28X40.
96 95 94 SI
as 9]
93 88 89 78 77 SSS 34
ae 85 al 80 79

81 go 79 78

 

 

 

 

 

ScaLz, 60 FEET TO ONE INCH.

 

 
 

 

64 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

Plan No. 11 is drawn at a scale of sixty feet to one inch, lot
160 by 320 feet, and is designed for a suburban villa lot, or as
the front grounds and immediate surroundings of a country farm
or fruit grounds with some pretension to style. It is supposed
that the house will be of a broken, pointed style, and should
stand upon a slight elevation, of say six to eight feet of grade,
from the roadway in front. Then if the rear of the house has a
high bank or rocky slope, we think our plan will make it of
value as well as ornamental, as we have put in trees of good
fruit, and yet hardy and ornamental.

The plan of the house, according to our rule, is only the first
ground plan, as by it we must know where doors outward,
leading to paths, ete, should be constructed. The elevation of
the architecture we can do, but as it is not a part or parcel of
our plan, we omit it. Reference to the ground plan of the
house will show as follows:

lisa front porch 8 feet wide, passing on the side where the
driveway and main entrance to the house is had.

2is a rear porch with steps, mainly for the use of assistants ;
it is 8 by 16 feet.

3 is a green-lhouse or conservatory, 20 by 28 feet, with glass
doors opening from the hall and a door into room 4, or the
Library, which is 15 by 15 feet, and a door into the hall out on
the porch, and into the Parlor, room 5, which is 15 by 18 feet;
from this room a door opens into the hall, and a bay window,
projecting 2 feet and ranging from its main of 12 feet on the
level of the wall in the room to cight feet on its front.

6 is the main hall, 8 by 15 feet, where it should have bulwarks
each side of one foot, but no door.

7 isa space 16 by 16 feet with a4 by 4 feet in the rear for
entrances from the kitchen and out-of-doors. This space is
designed for stairs to the second story. They should be wind-
ing, and start at the right as you enter from the hall, so that a
view into the green house or conservatory will not be obstructed.

 

 
 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. . 65

 

8 is a Dining Room, 16 by 20 feet, with a bay window. The
leading door is from the hall, with connections to 9, the China
closet; 10, the Butler's pantry, and 11 the kitchen, 15 by 20
feet, then 12 comes as the kitchen pantry.

_ WW indicates the windows, and d. the doors.) The chimneys

are all marked =.

18 is the ‘Porte Cochere” or entrance by earriageway under
shelter, 8 by 12 feet.

The following list of trees, etc., against numbers in figure
correspond to numbers on the plan, and designate the place in

 

which a tree or shrub.should he planted :

1. 1—White-leaved Linden.
2—Purple-leaved Beech.
8—Purple-leaved Elm.
4—Purple-leaved Beech.
5—Enuropean Sycamore Maple.
6—Large-leaved Maple.
7—Red Flowering Horse Chestnut.
“8~Enropean Mountain Ash.
9--Saliaburia or Maiden Hair Tree.
10—-Tulip Tree or Lirfodendron.
11—Scarlet or Red Maple.
12—English Elm.
13—Mahaleb Cherry.
14—Ozage Orange.
15—Deciduous Cypress.
16—Scotch Larch.
17—Cembrian Pine.
18—White or Wymouth Pine.
19—Magnolia Glauca.
20—American White Spruce.
21—Red or Norway Pine.
22-—-Lawson's Cypress.
28—Corsican Pine,
%A—Magnolia Soulangeana,
25—Austrian Pine.
26—Scotch Pine.
27—Norway Spruce.
28—Cucumber Tree.
20, 29, 29—-Lombardy Poplars.
30, 30—Norway Spruce.
31—Balsam Fir.
82—-American Arbor Viix, or American Red
Cedar.
83—Black Tartarian Cherry.
%~—Red Jacket Cherry.

85—Rockport cherry.

36—Elton Cherry. ‘
37—Early Purple Guigne Cherry.
38—Lonis Phillippe Cherry.
39—May Duke Cherry.

40—Early Richmond Cherry.
41—Purple Fringe.

42—Euonymus or Strawberry Tree.
43—White Fringe Tree.

44—Trefoil Tree.

45—High or Bush Cranberry.
46—Hemlock.

47—Weeping Birch (Var. Hlegans Pendula.)
48—Weeping Cut-leaved Birch.
49—Young's New Weeping Birch.
60—Weeping Mountain Ash. |
51—White-leaved Weeping Linden.
62—Siberian Arbor Vite.
58—Arbor Vite (Var. Compacta.)
64—Chinese Golden Arbor Vite.
55—Chinese Arbor Vite (Semper Aurea.)

- 56—Tom Thumb Arbor Vite.

5%—Arbor Vitze (Globosa.)

68—Arbor Vite (Hricoides.)

59—Plnus Mugho.

60—Pinus Mugho Rotundata.

61—Pinus Pumilio.

62—Dwarf Hemlock (Canadensis Nana.)
63—Abies To.tuosa Compacta.
64—Abies Excelsa Pygmea.

65—Abies Pumilla Nigra.

66—Savin.

6%—Trailing Juniper (J. Sabina Alpina.)
68—Juniperus Squamata.

69, 69—Juniperus Repens.

 

 
 

66

70—Fill this bed as follows: The rear or
back line from the road with Weigelas or
varieties, set three feet apart and one foot from
the edge on the curve. Plant the center with
Tree Honeysuckles, Japan Quince and Altheas
mixed. Then fill the balance, keeping the
front curve in line, with Lilacs, Spireas and
Deutzias, with a plant of Hydrangea Panicu-
lata at each end of the bed.

71—This bed is designed for Geraniums,
Colens, Lilies, etc., from the green house or
conservatory in summer, then filled with
Tulips, Hyacinths, etc., for spring blooming.

%2—This bed is to have Clematis and Climb-
ing Honeysuckles next to the porch, with ever-
blooming roses in front.

%—Use this bed for Japan Lilies and such
other bulbs that bloom, so as to carry the
season through.

%4—Weeping Juniper (Obdlouga Penduila.)

%5—Plant this bed with Herbaccous Peonias,
two or three Tree Peonias in the center, then
fill balance with Ivies, Phloxes, etc.

%6—Annual flowers or low, bedding out, free-
flowering plants.

Vt, Tt, Tt, Ti—Standard Seckel Pears.

"8, %8, 78, %8—Standard Bartlett Pears.

HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

79, 79, 79, 79—Standard Beurre d’Anjou Pears

80, 80, 80, 80—Standard Lawrence Pears.

81, 81, 81, 81—Standard Winter Nelis Pears.

82, 82, 82—Standard Clapp’s Favorite Pears.

83—Transcendant Crab Apple,

84—White Winter Crab Apple.

85—Cherry Crab Apple.

86—Coral Crab Apple.

87—Chicago Crab Apple.

88—Hyslop’s Crab Apple.

89—Lady Crab Apple.

90—Marengo Crab Apple,

91—Seven varicties of hardy grapes. to be
grown on stakes or trained over rocks, as
the ground may allow.

92—Dwarf Vicar of Winkefield Pear.

93—Donna Maria Cherry.

94—Chickasaw Plum.

95—Cruger’s Scarlet Plum.

96—Wild Goose Plum.

97—Winesap Apple.

98—Gravenstein Apple.

99—Red Canada Apple.

100—Jonathan Apple.

101—Obio Nonpariel Apple.

102—Maiden’s Blush Apple.

The locations of the trees from 88 to 102
must be counted according to the land.

 

 

 

 
 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 67

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PLAN No. 12.

 

ScALE, 25 FEET TO ONE INCH.

Plan 12 is for a lot 32 by 150 feet, and
is drawn to a scale of 25 feet to one
inch. This ground plan we have de-
signed for a plain one-and-a-half story
house, with the front of the roof to have

architect can arrange from a single hint.
Referring to it:

No. 1 isa hall 4 by 82 feet; door at
front and side.

No. 2 is a parlor, with a wide side
window and bay window in front. The
room is designed for 16 by 16 feet, the
bay window projecting three feet and
eight feet on the inside space.

No. 3 is calculated as a family sitting
room, 16 by 16 fect, opening into a bed-
room, No. 5, of 8 by 16 feet, which is
also entered from No. 4, which is to be
the breakfast or dining room, which is
12 by 16 feet, and opens from No 8, the
kitchen, which is 12 by 16 feet.

From No. 5 there is a closet marked 6,

8} 4 by 4 feet, and from No. 8, marked 7,

is a closet 4 by 4 feet.

In making this plan, it is supposed
that an alley way runs at the rear, where
a barn or stable can be made; or, void
of that, an entrance for teams with coal,
wood, etc., for the house, landing at the
kitchen door.

 

 
 

68

HAND=BOOK OF PRACTICAL

The following schedule of trees against the figures in numbers
indicates the place for each, designated by corresponding

 

numbers on the plan:

1, 1—Cut-leaved Birch,
2—Furple-leaved Beech.

' 8—Indian Birch (Betula Bhojpatira.)
“4—Purple-leaved Elm (Stricta Purpurea.)
&—Young'’s Weeping Birch.
4—Cut-leaved Weeping Birch.

‘Y—American White Spruce.
6-Cembrian Pine.
9—American Red Sprtce.

10—Corsican, or Red, or Norway Pine.

11—Norway Spruce.

12—Pinus Pumilio.

18—Designed’as a form outline to enclose the

planting of Spircas, Deutzias, Chinese and
Persian Lilacs, Hydrangea Paniculata, and the
. dwarf varietics of Tree Honeysuckles, with
starlet flowering Quince and Forsythia.
14—Is a bed designed for the planting of
what we term half trees, or firet-class shrubs,
viz.: The Weigelas, Halesia, Euonymnus, Dog-
wood, Purp‘e Fringe, White Fringe, Gordon's
Currant, Althea, Berberry, etc. Each plant
should stand three feet from the other, and one
foot from the edge of the bed. The smallest
growing plants should be next the house and
the largest at the back.

15—Along this line a border from the house

range of one foot, with a slope or rade
of two inches from the house ; the oppo-
site side should have a grade to meet it,
making a rolling water carrier ifter-
mediate, and be of turf. The bank next
the house should be planted with Gera-
aiums, Petnmias, Callas, Heliotropes,
Verbenas, etc., for summer blooms, then
if the proprietor is able, let the bank next
the house be yearly replanted with Hya-
cinths, Tulips, Crocus, etc.

i6—Is a bed to be planted with Perpétnal
Roses, Geraniyms, Verbenas, Heliotropes
and annual bulbs, such as Japan Lilies,
Tulips, Hyacinths, Gladiolus, etc., ay
be planted in it.

1%7—Black Tartarian Chetry.

18—Red Jacket Cherry.

19—Rockport Cherry.

20—Six Dwarf Pears, one each a8 follows :

Ducheese d’Angouleme. Beurre Giffart.
Louise Thonne de Jerséy. Bartlett,

Vicar of Winkfield. Beurre d’ Anjou.
21—Three Grapes, varieties as follows :
Telegraph. Cencord.

Hartford Prolific,
All the rear of this may be uséd for Whatever
buits best the proprietor.

 

 
 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 69

 

PLAN No. 13.

—

 

 

 

 

 

 

= eI
29 BARN
14X20
2X X X XX. 2B
21 ——
27 27
27 27 27
26 21
J 25
24 20
19
23 18

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ScaLe, 25 FEET TO ONE INCH.

Plan No. 13 is for a lot 50

by 150 feet, with a scale of 25

fect to one inch. The location
of the house is 40 feet back
from the street. Itis supposed
to be two stories high with a
pointed Gothic roof, three
chimneys, a porch in front
that should have a railing
and flooring, which will make
it a resort from the second
floor. We give only the
ground plan, which we have
changed from one made by
Rev. D P. Oakey, Jamaica,
Long Island, and originally
published in the Horticultur-
ist in 1866, when the writer
was a regular contributor. As
we have said, we have chang-
ed his ground plan, but give
his perspective view of eleva-
tion.

 

 
 

 

70 HAND-—BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

PERSPECTIVE OF ELEVATION.

 

BY og Pian No. 18.

The following is the size and position of the rooms in the
ground plan :

No..1 is the front porch, 6 by 80 feet.

No. 2 is the main hall, 6 by 24 feet, from which the stairs go
to the second story ; this again opens into a hall, (fig. 7) to back
porch (fig. 13), it also enters a hall (fig. 8) 4 by 4 feet, with
door to kitchen.

No. 4 is supposed to be a living room, 12 by 14 feet, connect-
ing with a bed room (fig. 5) 8 by 14 feet, and from each of these
a door into the main hall, the rear hall and so to the dining
room (fig. 11) which is 12 by 16 feet, and entered from the
kitceen only through a hall, thus excluding all the bad odors
that come from cooking.

The kitchen (fig. 10) is 10 by 16 feet, with a closet 4 by 6
feet.

No. 6 isa room, 10 by 14 feet, connecting with the front room
(fig. 3), which we class as the parlor, 14 by 14 feet. No. 6 may
be used as a library or private sitting room.

 

 
 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 71

 

In the plan for planting, no carriage-way has been made from
the front, but a supposition of knowledge has been entertained
that the lot would have an alley in the rear for bringing in coal,
etc., and a place for a barn, and we have here placed it 20 by 14
feet, with a driveway fora coal cart, etc, to the kitchen. The
scale in which the plan is made must Bovern all the work, any
change from it shall never be acknowledged by the editor of
this book, and he who does it shall be prosecuted. Ido not
hesitate to give credit to whom I am indebted, and the man who
steals from me has.a record for a future to answer.

Reference to the planting of the grounds is like unto other
plans, made’ by figures of numbers attached to trees, correspond-

 

ing with the same figures on the plan:

1, 1—Norway Maples.
2, 2—Cut-leaved Beech (Zncisa.)
8—Purple-leaved Beech (Purpurca.)
4—Magnolia Acuminata or Cucumber Tree,
5—Tulip Tree or Liriodendron Tulipefera.
6—Lombardy Poplar.
%, t—Norway Spruce.
8~This is marked by an outline to be filled
with low growing, flowering shrubs, such as
Deutzia Gracilis, varieties of Spireas, and
Clinese and Persian Lilacs.
9—This bed, marked by outline, should be
filled with monthly blooming roses.
10—This bed should have Dwarf Evergreens
in it as its center, with Juniperus Repens as its
border edging.
11—This bed is designed to be filled in sum-
mer with Geraniums, Coleus, etc, and the
bulbs, such as Hyacinths, Crocus, etc., planted
in autumn for early spring flowering.
12—This bed should correspond with No. 11,
18—Fill this with Hybrid Perpetual Roses.

14, 14—These beds are for annuals or low
creeping, ever blooming plants, like the
Verbenas, etc.

15—Fill this space with Dwarf Arbor Vites
and Pines.

16—Black Tartarian Cherry.

1%—Rockport Cherry.

18—Red Jacket Cherry.

19—Louise Phillipe Cherry.

20—Early Richmond Cherry.

21—Donna Maria Cherry.

22—Cembrian Pine.

23—American White Spruce.

24—Austrian Pine.

25—Corsican or Red Pine.

26—White or Wymouth Pine.

27—Standard Pears as follows :

2 Seckels, nearest the road.
2 Winter Nelis, next back.
1 Beurre d’Anjou. 1 Bartlett,
1 Lawrence, without reference to position.
28—Six varieties either of Grapes or Dwarf
Apples.
29—Vegetable garden,

 

 
 

 

72 HAND-BOOK. OF PRACTICAL

 

PLAN No. 14.

 

 

21 BARN
20X40

 

  
   
   
    

 

 

26 26 26 26 26 24

z5 25 25 25 24
2323 23 20 #17

22 22

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scag, 40 FEET TO ONE INCH.

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 73

 

REFERENCES TO PLAN 14.

First the house is placed forty feet back from the street.
The ground plan we have remodeled from one published by
H. Hudson Holly, in Harpers’ Magazine of May, 1876. The
elevation is a copy from Harpers’ Magazine of same date, the
best magazine ever published. :

Now to the ground plan, the scale is forty feet to one inch,
and so the porch will vary from 8 to 16 feet; it is marked x x x.

No. 2 is a hall 8 by 28 feet, opening to No. 7, which is
designed for the stairway above, and is 12 by 16 feet, with a
branch of 4 by 8 feet, having a light of window as a guide to
the stairway.

No. 3 is the living room or parlor, 16 by 20 feet, and opening
to No. 4, 16 by 16 feet, with a bay window; both of these open
by doors to the main hall.

No. 9 is the dining room, 16 by 20 to 22 feet, and opens from
the main hall and through No. 7, which is a hall and stairway
to No. 5, the kitchen, 16 by 16 feet, with closets (see 6 and 10)
then a store room (No. 8) 8 by 20, which can be opened from
No. 9. Again, No. 4 can be used as a dining room, and Nos.
9 and 8 as living and bed rooms.

 

 

 

 
 

 

74 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

ELEVATION To Puan No. 14.

_Now we show upon the plan the walks and roads by deeper
lines and shading. The half oval in front of the house, between
the carriage road and foot path, shows bed cut in the turf; these
beds, 1, 2, 8, 4, 5, are to be filled with flowering bulbs, plants, . |
etc., according to the taste of the owner. Bed 6 is to be planted
with Dwarf Evergreens, the Juniperus Repens being the edging.

The trees on this plan are shown as follows:

1, 1, 1—Red or Scarlet Maples. 16—This line runs along the roadway and
2—Weeping Cut-leaved Birch. boundary ; fill it with hardy flowering
8—Magnolia Acuminata. shrubs, arranging for the tallest growers
4—Liriodendron Tulipifera. to be near the barn, and tone down in
5—White or Weymouth Pine. their growth to the front.
6—Cembrian Pine. 1%—Early Purple Guigne Cherry.
‘— American White Spruce. 18—Rockport Cherry...
8—American Black Spruce. 19—Black Tartarian Cherry.
9—Norway Spruce. 20—Red Jacket Cherry.
10, 10, 10—Lombardy Poplars. 22, 22, 22—Standard Bartlett Pears.
11, 11—Austrian Pine. 23, 23, 22—Standard Beurre d’ Anjou Pears,
12—Scotch Pine. 24, 24--Standard Seckel! Pears,
18—Corsican Pine. 25, 25, 25, 25—Standard Lawrence Pears.
14—Red or Norway Pine. 26, 26, 26, 26, 26—Grapes.

15—Mountain Pine. 2%—Vegetable garden.

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 75

 

Designs for School Houses,

and Plans for the Wecoration of the
Grounds Surrounding.

 

The writer of this work makes no pretensions of being an
architect, having studied the subject only in connection with his
planting of trees, etc., to make harmony with the surroundings
of the house and its order of architecture, but at the suggestion
of the enterprising publisher, and with a desire to do what we
can for the public good, we have prepared the following. Our
country has passed but a hundred years since its day of freedom,
yet the education of those who are to come after us becomes the
duty of every parent in the land. aa

The school house, yard and grounds, together with the
government of the teacher, in a mild yet decided manner, gives,
if made pleasant, a desire to the child to go and learn.

In many ofthe entirely new sections of the United States,
logs can be used, and made even ornamental, for the building.
The first settlers of a woody tract have no other resource, but to
build log tenements in which to live.

    
    

WI. Gh
RRR
WAM
SSSA

 

As we write this the Country Gentleman, a journal of great
value, comes to us, and we venture to take from it an illustra-
tion of a log house, with our native wild vines creeping upon it,
its dimensions being according to our scale about 16 by 20 feet,
which of course can be enlarged.

 

 
 

 

76. HAND-—BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

Such a building as this, placed on dry ground and amid a
grove of trees of the native forest, having the old or decayed
trees remoyed, would be daily visited by the children of a
neighborhood for learning and with pleasure, all things consid-
ered,.as before written touching the teacher. We want no more.
use of the rod, for it is time that intelligence of mind, not
passion, should rule. Leaving this we now give an elevation.
design taken from the Horticulturist of 1866, made by G. E.
Harney, a capable architect. We have changed his ground plan,
and made a plan for the planting of an acre of ground as a school.
ground, giving the position of the building. We give the lay of
‘the grounds, line of paths, position of the building, but have not
space in our columns to give a definite scale for the planting.
We number where the large trees are, where the shrubs are to be.
planted ; but first our copy of the building by Mr. Harney as a
perspective view.

 

It will be seen at once, by the most common observer, that the
design is to be constructed of boards, set upright, and battened.
No show of chimneys has been given by Mr. Harney, and in my
change I have marked where the chimneys should be, supposing
them only as flues for stove pipe, and opening or ventilating at.
or in the cupola by side air passages.

The height of the main rooms should be 12 feet, rising in the
center of the principal school room, marked 20x30 on the plan,

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 77

 

from three to five feet. We quote the following, touching on
Harney’s ideas relative to the inside structure:

“The wood-work should all be stained, and the walls tinted
some soft nettral tmt—gray, cream or pearl color. The windows
‘ate all sash windows, double hung for purposes of ventilation ;
and, in addition, there are two ventilating shafts rising from the
floor through the attic, and terminating in the ventilator on the
ridge of the main roof. These shafts have openings near the
floor and ceiling, with arrangements for opening and shutting at
will. They are made of smoothly planed, well jointed pine
Boards, and measure each sixteen inches square inside. In order
to keep up the circulation, and to supply cool air from outside, a
shaft is introduced, running along under the floor, and terminat-
ing at the platform on which, in winter, the stove or heating
apparatus will stand, and from this distributed into the room by
numerous small holes in the riser of the platform. , We consider
the simplest methods of ventilation the best, and the above will
be found both simple and effective. The great desideratum is to
provide means for the discharge of a certain quantity of vitiated |
air, and to supply its place by the same quantity of pure air,
properly warmed in winter. To make the discharge more
difective, the stove pipe may be carried up in connection with one
of the shafts, rarifying the air, and making the upward current
wstronger, but.in ordimary cases this will be hardly necessary.

There are two entrances to this house, one for boys and one for
fitls, Both entries are ten feet apart, and are in the main build-
‘tig, ‘opening direetly into the school room.

GQ

 
 

 

78 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

 

 

 

 

 

      

  

 

 

ee
PORCH!
BxlO, |OXI0

 

 

 

 

And now to our change of the ground plan. We make a as
the teacher's stand; s, the position for the main stove; 88, in
each of the 12x16 rooms, both of which to be used as class rooms ;
CC, the position of the flues for the stove pipes. We have laid
out our paths on the ground to be ten feet wide from the
front gate, sixteen feet directly in front of the center of the

house. The rear line carriage path, for the delivery of fuel, and -

accommodation of those who take their children to school on a
rainy day, we grade, as the lines show, from ten to eight feet
The porches are indicated on the plan, and the rooms 10x10 are
for the clothing of the children, one for the girls and one for the
boys. In the rear we have marked B and c as for two privys,

and have made our plan that the boys should: enter and use
mainly the side where the twin roadway isshown. The outlines .

 

Farad ene ee

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 79

 

of beds on the plan, marked 1, are for hardy flowering shrubs,
both evergreen and deciduous. 2 is a Norway Spruce; the re-
mainder of the half oval to bein turf. 3 are for deciduous forest
trees, provided the front of the lot faces the eastorsouth. If the
lot faces the north or north-west, these should be changed to large
evergreens, like White Pine, Norway Spruce, Scotch Pine, etc.

The outlines of beds marked 4 should have mingled evergreens
planted eight or ten feet apart, if that line be to the north. On
the contrary, if to the south, it should be planted with second
class growth of deciduous trees, mingled with dwarf evergreens
in the fore ground. 5, 5, should be of Norway Spruce, Arbor
Vit, ete., as a screen from the outhouses. All the land beside
what and where we have named should be in turf.

 

 
 

 

80 HANB-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

Hedges and Screens.

 

Nothing, perhaps, to the lover of Nature, adds so much te the
cheerful aspect of a district as the hedges by which it is inter-
sected, and the timber and other trees’ with which it is clothed.
The latter stand out in bold relief in the picture, while the hedges
fill up those necessary lines, without which there would be a
certain amount of blank. A good hedge is, in many instances,
a farmer's pride, and in this respect he looks at it in a different
light from the admirer of rural scenery, to whom the more crooked
the hedge, and the more heterogeneous the plants of which it is
composed, the more beautiful it appears; while to the farmer, a
hedge occupying the least possible space of ground, straight in
its outline, and forming an impassable boundary to cattle, is the
approach to perfection which he delights in. The hedge is
always a prominent feature, not only of beauty, but of usefulness
on the borders and grounds of the owners of suburban villas.

Screens also are features of value upon all places, and of them
hereafter.

During the last thirty years great progress has been made in
this direction, and we may expect to see still farther advances.
In many districts, however, owing to gross error in the use of
plants, or in the case of cutting and pruning hedges once

. planted have, as it were, disappeared; yet, hedges have their —
uses, and I hope yet to see their general adoption over the large’
breadth of our goodly land, much of which is now sub-divided .

by wire, board or rail fences, a constantly yearly drain upon the
owners. No hedge, planted with a view to form a barrier, should
be planted with varied trees, nor with trees or plants liable to
sucker or throw out lateral roots long distances, thereby making
the keeping clean the land fully up to the line of the hedge. The
Maple, Elder, Willow, and various other trees have been used,
but always unsatisfactorily. The Osage Orange has failings that
have rendered it of little value in many sections. The Thorn and

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 81

 

Wild Plum have both been tried, but without favor. The Honey
Locust is a tree of perfect hardihood, has no suckers, or long,
lateral roots, bears the shears perfectly, and its thorns aid in its
forming a perfect barrier. We look upon the Honey Locust as
the best plant for forming a farm or road side hedge that is grown
in this country. Hedges, apart from their utility, are a necessary
feature of the landscape in most districts. The want of them
where high cultivation exists, causes a sad blank in the winter
scenery ; but it is not in these cases only that we advocate their
adoption, for their value on many of the large tracts of land on
the prairies and other sections, would be of interest and value to
all. All of this change of varieties of plants to be used for
hedges we look upon as coming to us, and in such manner that
no hesitation to plant, or care to cultivate, will remain.

FORMING OF HEDGES.

All of the subject matter of instruction as to how to plant
hedges, may be told in a few words, and will apply as well to one
variety of plant as to another. The whole is, first, to have good
soil free from any standing water. Second, make a trench where
the hedge is to stand, two feet wide and eighteen inches deep,
throwing out all the earth; then dig the earth at the bottom of
said trench eight to twelve inches deep; then throw the best of
soil over the bottom to a depth of two inches. Third, select the
plants so that in planting they will all be of one size; then plant
(carefully, by spreading the roots and working earth of the best
kind among them), at distances varying according to the plants,
of 16 to 18, or 20 to 24 inches from plant to plant, covering the
upper roots about four inches deep in the trench, and finish by
leaving the ground nearly level with its adjacent.

PLANTING FOR SCREENS.

The planting of trees to act as a screen to a building, or pro-

tection of a garden or orchard, varies from that of hedges only in

placing the trees at greater distances apart.

 

 
 

 

82 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

VARIETIES OF TREES.

The Honey Locust, or T’hree Thorned Acacia, Osage Orange,
and Buckthorn, are the only three deciduous plants that we
recommend for permanent hedges as barriers. The first and last
named may be relied upon in almost any section of our country ;
but the Osage Orange is, in many locations, unsuited, because
from extreme cold it is liable to kill out. Fancy hedges of
various flowering shrubs are frequently made as boundaries to
garden or road line, where cattle are not pastured. These like
the varieties of evergreens, cannot be depended upon as barriers
of protection. Among evergreens, the Norway Spruce and the
varieties of Arbor Vita are most commonly used and popular;
but all evergreens will bear the shears in the pruning, so that the
planter may choose variety at his pleasure. The practice of
alternating varieties in the row is often equally as good as one
distinct variety, while it gives a unique, characteristic appearance
to the line. For instance, the Norway Spruce and American
Black Spruce are planted alternately ; so also Hemlock alternate
Cembrian Pine or Lawson's Cypress, where the latter will bear
the winter. The American White Spruce, White Pine, Corsican
Pine, each and all are good.

Where trees are planted for screens, to grow twelve to twenty
feet high, they should be at least two and a half feet apart; and
it is often better to make the line a little irregular, by placing an
additional tree of another variety some three or four feet back of
the main line. Dwarf hedges of evergreens are sometimes
planted, or may be to mark the boundary of a flower garden or
croquet ground, etc. Varieties of the Box, Evergreen Thorn,
Junipers, Kalmias and Yews may be used with certainty in many
sections, but the Mahonia is snp always an evergreen, but a
sub-evergreen.

 

 
 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 83

 

Winter Decoration
of Open Grounds and in the House.

 

As winter approaches come thoughts as to the manner by
which the front grounds, where now are beds of blooming flowers,
can be made features of attractive and agreeable beauty during
the coming winter. Again comes the question of “TIow to
cheaply have some green-foliaged plant in the window all the
winter?” In the house of the wealthy, where a steady heat is
kept up night and day, almost any plant can be grown; but my
notes are for those who perhaps keep no steady fire night and
day, in any one room, and the removal daily of plants subject to

 

damage from frost, is a task that is labor, and often forgotten so ;
that when morn comes the Geranium, or other tender flowering
plant, has little or nothing left to pleasantly greet the eye. To
remedy this, in the house, let me say, make a box the length of
width of the window in which you wish it to stand, one foot
wide, ten inches deep. Make the bottom board of the box with

 

 

 

 
 

 

84 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

grooves, to carry the water to one point for outlet; next put in-
side a false bottom board, having quarter inch holes in it, once
every four inches—this false bottom board to be two inches above
the lower one. Place flat stones, broken to two inches, or there-
abouts, upon the bottom; the two inches of good garden soil, and
for working in among roots to be planted herein, get good leaf
mould, i. e., the soil next under the turf of an old grass pasture,
or the soil from ground where an old wood-pile has been. Now
plant, next to the outside border of this box, with varieties of
Sedums and Lysimachia, alternately ; next, inside plant of Juni-
perus Repens and Nana, using Nana as corner plants; next, one
. plant each of Pinus mugho rotundata, at each end of the box,
inside of the Junipers ; next plant two of Taxus adpressa and two
of Taxus ericoides; next, one at each end, inside of the last, of
Evergreen Thorn, and finish with center plant of Hemlock,
Lawson’s Cypress, or some dwarf Arbor Vite. These, whien
planted with the earth up to within half an inch of the surface—
that covered with fine moss will, with care in watering, keep
green and fresh all winter, and in the spring the plants can be
used in the open ground. We have often visited rooms where
ferns and many delicate climbing vines were growing in glass
cases, without any extra heat other than what might come from
an open grate or wood fire place. Flora’s admirers are more than
even the most ambitious flirt—if there is such a creature—could
desire; but her gems, i. e., Flora’s, are not all made of flowers.
Foliage is a gem, without which many of her most brilliant colors
would not be noticed. Contrast, it is said, makes harmony, but
such is not always the case; yet the shades of green that belong
to foliage always give a pleasing contrast with the flower, no
matter what its color.

"We have seen in the center of a window a fancy piece of rock
work, formed upon a common plank, grooved, so that all water
should run to one outlet. Broken rocks of selected colors, or
what some term rough, ungainly moss, overgrown boulders, laid
up in resemblance of some rocky point or mound one has seen
in their wanderings, and mingled with them, leaf mould, or good
loamy, sandy soil (not peat from a low, swampy bog); into which

 

 
 

 

 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 85

 

plant varieties of ferns and hardy creeping vines, such as the
Chinese Evergreen Honeysuckle, Ampelopsis Veitchii, German
Ivy, Vincas of varieties, Pilea reptans, rose and lemon scented
Geraniums, some of the hardy Salvias, Mahonias, Creeping Juni-
pers, Daphne Mezerium. The whole forms a most pleasing
feature in a room, and is of far less trouble than plants grown in
pots, to be changed, repotted, etc. from time to time. Another
feature of this style of house decoration of Flora’s gems, is, that
the roots are rarely injured by moisture or draught, even if too
often or too rarely watered.

 

From this we revert to the common practice of window deco-
ration with pot plants and hanging baskets filled with creepers,
whose graceful lines oft wave so thick and fresh in the life as to
give an idea that they are like the Mistletoe, living only upon

 

 
 

 

86 HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

air, while they call lovers to them, under the impression that what
may there be said shall come to pass.

Through the kind courtesy of James Vick, Esq., wecopy from
his Floral Guide some illustrations of how to arrange plants and
hanging baskets in the window.

No. 1 represents two windows on each side of a mirror, with
plants in pots, and hanging baskets, This is apparently given
for outside than inside show.

No. 2 shows the plants in pots, and mostly upon the floor; less
of hanging plants than of erect form.

 

No, 3.

No. 3 is a tasteful arrangement of plants and vines, in a bay
window; yet we think a cased box for the roots of plants under
the window-sill, and the climbers planted to run upon fine wires
over the casings, with here and there a shrubby plant in the
center, or along the window lights, would be more natural. The
vase is excellent, and so the hanging baskets; but as we have
before said, there is generally too much care and attention re-
quired in this matter to meet the resources of a majority with
whom purity and truth are always in association with earth’s
productions of beauty, and thus a forethought of a future paradise.

 

 
 

 

LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 87

 

No. 4 is a presentation which rarely can be found, inasmuch as
the form of the window, with the heavy stile in center, is not
generally found in residences of those who cannot depend upon
a green house to supply plants.

 

No. 4.

Mr. Vick gives some good and sensible remarks in his Floral
Guide, touching Bulbs, and we refer those who desire to grow
bulbs, to his work; nor do we believe in delicate plants next a
window, where the temperature causes frost to congeal in icy
flakes upon the outside of the glass, no matter what may be the
' inside heat. In the care of plants in windows or sitting rooms,
care should be always taken to keep the earth moist, yet not wet.
Water with rain water; never use limestone water from a well.
The time to water is, generally best just about sunset. Where
plants are grown in pots or boxes, the covering the surface with
patches of moss taken from decaying wood in the woods, or from

 

 
 

 

88 HAND—BOOK OF PRACTICAL

 

moss covered rocks, tends to keep an even temperature in the
soil. Another good principle and practice is to insert the crock
in which the plant grows, into another, so much larger that it
will leave one quarter inch of space around it, and one inch at
bottom ; fill this space with finely pulverized charcoal, placing
more or less of fine pebbles in the bottom to secure the drainage
from the main pot. Some mingle clean sand with the charcoal ;
this tends to keep the earth around the roots of the plants from
immediate direct changes from moisture to drought; or when
watering the plants a light watering of the line of charcoal
should be given. Avoid the use of guano or other stimulating
manures; but let the rain water with which you water always be
of a tepid warmth, but if it can be so, from the sun's rays.
Where plants are left open in the room, they should be covered
with alight cloth or paper, during the process of sweeping or
dusting. Flora loves cleanliness. ; :

It is unadvisable to grow a great variety of plants in the house.
Many that are beautiful under the regular temperature and care
of the greenhouse, prove of no value when placed in the change-
able atmosphere and dust of a living room.

OUSTIDE WINTER GARDENING.

Lawns or front door yards, as often called, where beds of flowers
have been during the summer, may be kept in good appearance
at a cheap rate, by obtaining from the woods or from waste trees
in nurseries, branches of evergreens of varieties, and setting the
ends in the ground, arranging the heights as well as shades of
foliage to give a pleasing effect. Another way is to obtain small
plants, varieties of evergreens, and plant them, mulching the
ground around and between them. These can be removed in .
spring, set in a shady place, and used again the coming winter.

 

 
 

 

 

MAGNOLIA GLANCA.

For descriptions see pages 31 and 32,

'

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

Norway SPruUcE.

or description see page 22.

 

 
 

 

 

AUSTRIAN PINE,

For description see page 22.

 

 
 

 

        

y
i Pe
mer

Hemuock Spruce.

for description see page 22,

 

 
 

 

Evrovean SILVER FIR.

For description see page 21.

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

Lawson Cypress.—- Cupressus Lawsoniana,

For description see page 20.

 

 
 

 

INDEX.

PAGE.
. A
Arar rnel seis i icin iis ns anja hn nisin ten Sia voians cobain sage loiMi nla caiaieee dc uwialewimenieveseeeres 5
Amateur Landscape Gardening......... 6. ccscceeceenccneceeeceseeences 1
B
Bed Ging Plantae ah csc cis.ccot gawiccsis atmvernlon oihealahiieeaiadie ce warn erainiioa cescia nas 15
Cc
Cuttings of Shrubs and Plants. ....... ccc cece eee n tence ee te ee eeneeenne 13
Deciduous Trees and Shrubs. .........-ccceeeseccceeonssceees aia Re eae 8
Description of Trees, Shrubs, &.... 1... eee cece eee eee ee eee renee 19 to 24
m
FIV€TS TOONS iecssxesiccsion ca sree eeenn aay os LOOKER EE ea ies eNO 14 to 17
r
Fine Arts in Landscape Gardening. .......... 0c: ec cc ee eeerenseeneeretee 5
RG WET GAFCODID G6. ieaicie a idanessoyereipaeeseusvectiane/Siaaid ORE CaN OE TEESE 4
Fountain <c:os2ansauwervcavaead aac eas cums ens ae eae eddeos siniweaioeers 60
Fruits—desirable varieties. 0.0.0.0... 00 ccc ccc ie eens cece renee en cecereees 50
Go
GaTdeN’ Silvan taiataawinlean aie Aer inaernvatececleuauns eats vafavin fo tNvdatenarau ayaa 8
Grals LAWS: <c.cossencicigdoeks Osten atin ttaels twee see aweree Tes 10
Ground—Keep the surface loose. ........ 0. c cece eee cent eee eee eeenees 10
VIO WO bie. cssccestsavastick a ihstcaiaichuaeceded rnepentle at bedalavaucsdcvay sn seailajnradarsuaapouccses 56
Gardening; "Wintersa«,..«.o2.00ce salesmen areenereedoiwege ase sees ease 88
=x :
HOM VHOCK Bis 2:2. s5s.0)tetsastis etna sneeele DEA RRR ASH CON GWA CAM RTOS 14
Herbaceous: ‘Plante sccceaui sc sekuraepraninihs MeGruiee uel eeuuaeas 15
Haaidy? Amr ral 8). o:esssesavaies ain veis eve esecesacaiaseis woresein wvwaviuace-o erauaiis 3.0 SSNs SRG NARS 15
Hedges and Screens .......... 2c. cece cece eee cece erence een e ete naeres 80
TG
TAN 08 ico o.cioiansitcded tie cetieneesetea Reee eee mame acing eet eels 15 and 16
Landscape Adornment.......... sce cece ccc e nent cece eee e tne ee neees 56 to 59
LAWS . cece ce ccc ccc ce tect nce een et ence ene nen e cena rer erereserees 9
GRYABI 6. sc:kcacasaloaa PRR Re waar ie Rigg Seo aie eR nee win Siaietase nies e OLE TAEESTS 10
the making of........ 2. ec ee cece eect en eee een seen eter et ee ecerseete 9
DO
Mulching Trees.......-c2cccece eee e cent erence es ceceeeee ease aneeereeees 48
: es
Plan No. 1.—Lot 80150 feet. .....-.ee cece cere reer eens ante cece cence 43
Plan No. 2.—How to improve a place.....0. 0.6. seeeeeee ee ee cece erences 45
Plan No.” 8.—Lot 100X300 feet... ......eeeeereeeeeeees Wahiveasiunamaeeets 4%

Plan No. 4.—Lot 50X150 feet... .......esereeeereeeereeeees cave siateresate 49

 

 

 
 

 

96 INDEX.

 

Plan No 5.—Corner lot, 100X200 feet... .... 22... cece ener eee ence ereeee 52
Plan No. 6. - Fora large lot from 5 to 500 acres ........-0ee ever eeeees 53
Plan No. 9.—Lot 100K 200 feet... 2... cece cece cent e eee n ne seen eeneee 61
Plan No. 11.— Lot 1604820 feet, ..,... ccc ccc cece ec er cece ne cence Weieisteveie 63
PartNo 12 —Lot 82150 feet... 0... cece cc cee nce ce cn seeseseones 67
Plan No, 13.--Lot 50150 feet... 0.0... cc cece eee eee ene e eee eetanees 69
Man No. -13,—Perspective of elevation......... Pisin vaneeieuonacentiaenes 4
Plan No, 14 —Ground plan ... 0... ccc cece e eee ee een cece ee eeeeeenes 72
Plan No, 14.—Elevation. .........00c. cc sescccvccsacceeececsovess 73 and 74
Dieirena 1) 85 sees aces ovbsetersarcrevenaie New loialedelostve e-qse veh ou01e Gxelaneueseuarsvayd siadesesb ararsvese:ss01s 14
Pruning Trees in Spring.........cccccccnccncccccccecsenserasessseceecs 11
Pruning Trees in Winter........ aay oyna eta a'9 “6 wie reve td tose ale viniovestetsrocare’s ere 12
&
Rural Home Adornments, ........ ccc cece ee eee ce ee ee en cceteneeenecess 5
Rolling Walks and Roads, ......... cece eee e sence cece cess ence ceenees ion 38
Roses, propagation . 2.2... ccc cece acne cece eraccceveereeneeepesoncaces 13
Removing: Trees, SCs. '.:.5-csinntdcscG ckhatiniwarieces 208 Saree ewe ae was 17
Ss
SOEG TOP TM WN. 5.02.6 sia se 6. ae. dbo esos RN ate esie es OES. Sees CER within Seas 9
Shrubs, under drip of trees ............005 5 seat aue\etavioie:siare\'eUoie leibireve eloveretecevastavess 12
TATA sss ences sin sano’ 6sncobeo a seye 8G (bused Caisaiayote anbive Bosse ene sevara\ Os 6.0 Weve wlacerent nesiors 13
Condensed Description Of... ........ cece eee cece ten cee enone 17 to 42
Ornamental Deciduous.......... 0. ccc eee cece cee ce cence eens eenees 38
Condensed Description of Ornamental...........-.0 02 ceeeeeeeeeccnes 39
School} Housestaccusdaue cancun tee Genk wemauang aan temelemers 75 to 79
CREO, PV aati ries otic ccc wack ais Sie Oe aeih oh Sole Ree ae need tse whee SleieyesnsG.g Sidioe 81
Suburban Residence for a gentleman................666 siaieis:s ae ssa oyeslens 47
Tv
Turfing New Grounds.,.......ccccecsecconcccccsccnccceacccstsencessce 8
Trees; protect the: Crowns.c.i056s06s ee rece ss oeeeevasaetasecesecsecesces IL
PPaD ing, WS Pring osc a siecece cis-s died ore ecaravannipregninrneanarwils-e'e ise sinwesenee 11
Winter pruning’ se smeccunen owns wees is Shame R SEE se Bin: diene desteeravoaserere 12
Plow up to the roots...............2e0000: ROT OCT EC a er ee ie 12
Bish and: Pyramid. cis.cieincceinieeeis aes cod adineateaniguwiewenee se ioe ae 12
Condensed Descriptions Of...............ccceeeeeueccccceene -- 17 to 42
Weeping Deciduous. 2.02.0). c0cdoeaeve eens sing ecigeibeay eetee a t See ev 22
Deciduous): ecswseewecoeeenaet. eS: whee ta nsbiad se wOiearaed 25 to 38
Varieties for Hedges and Screens........... arataveyerens wieteiev slates Sis eavareaus 82
Transplanting, Evergreens, &............ceesee0 oe socceees 17 and 18
Illustrations of choice varieties... .. iicaw eens sd eeeceveess 89 to 94
: Ww
Walks and Roads ....... .....ceseeae isis Sige a aisle wiaIeNeraW ERSTE ese esea T

Walks and Ground Plan ...........ccscenccccccccessccccccunssicecccse. 58
Winter Decoration. ........ cnsewies ee ec cere cccccccscceseeesse eee s AS tO 88

 

 
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