- - . \\ _ - \ A \ \ \ \Y \ ~ RY ~ \ \ << x: QW A \\ Cornell Muiversity Zibrary BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF Henry W. Sage 1891 eB cmt eae TIRE Me. 6896-1 RETURN TO ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY ITHACA, N. Y. Cornell University Library SB 415.W72C 1883 “Wii use flowering ll i mann Stove and Greenhousg flowering Plants. CHOICE STOVE AND GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS, COMPRISING Descriptions of upwards of Chirteen Bundred Species and Varieties, INSTRUCTIONS FOR THEIR CULTIVATION AND MODE OF MANAGEMENT. BY BENJAMIN SAMUEL WILLIAMS, F.L.S., F.R.H.S., AUTHOR OF “‘THE ORCHID GROWER’S MANUAL,” ‘* HINTS ON THE CULTIVATION OF FEENS,” “SELECT FERNS AND LYCOPODS,” ‘‘ CHOICE STOVE AND THIRD EDITION, .ENLARGED, ILLUSTRATED, AND REVISED. Hondon: PUBLISHED AND SOLD BY THE AUTHOR. 1883. Victoria and Paradise Nurseries, Upper Holloway, London, N. ate LONDON Paintiy By Jas. Truscor, anp Son, Suffolk Lane, City. PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION. Sg Tr is highly gratifying to us to find that the Second Edition of this work has had such a rapid sale, and has been circulated widely both on the Continent and in the Colonies, independent of the home demand; facts which show the opinions of Cultivators, Amateurs, and Gardeners respecting the utility of it. In preparing the Third Edition, it has been our aim to make it as complete as possible, by increasing the number of woodcuts, and adding all the most meritorious new species and varieties of Stove and Greenhouse Flowering Plants up to the present time; we have also added some cuts of Greenhouses, &c., from which our readers will be able to gain ideas as to the arrangement of their plants, and the forms in which they should be trained for exhibition or decorative purposes; these additions have greatly increased the size and cost of production of the work, and we have been reluctantly compelled to raise the price to 7/6, which we feel certain our readers will not object to. We have endeavoured to render the instructions herein vi PREFACE. given as plain and practical as possible, so that any one perusing its pages and acting judiciously may be suc- cessful in the cultivation of their plants. In conclusion, we have to record our thanks to the Editors of the Gardeners’ Chronicle, Messrs. Jas. Veitch & Sons, Mr. William Bull, and other kind friends, for the loan of some of the illustrations contained in this edition. B. & WILLIAMS. VICTORIA AND PaRaDISH NURSERIRS, UppER Hottoway, Lonpon, N,, March, 1883, CONTENTS. ee ee PAGE PREFACE ‘ ‘ x é ‘ 4 ‘ ; : ‘ ‘ ‘ v INDEX ‘i : 3 . ‘ ; ‘ : ‘ ‘ . . 865 STOVE PLANTS. A SELECTION oF STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS . ‘ . » . 84 BROMELIACEOUS PLANTS. ‘ ? . . ‘“ 7 ts 2 #1 CISTERNS . é : ‘ ‘i . : 3 $ : . ia Guazine ‘i . P . ; i ‘i : i ‘i » ii HEATING . : . a . i i ‘ . 4 se 8 HYBRIDISING AND CROSS BREEDING 7 ‘ . jf “ j » 29 Insects . ' . : . < ‘ ‘ . . ‘ » « 20 INTRODUCTION. % ‘ ‘ z ‘ ‘ : ; . ‘ 1 Puant STOVEs . f * ‘ ‘ 5 . “ die 5 Porrine ‘ i ; ‘ . 4 . , 5 . é . 16 PROPAGATION . . i é ‘: fl . . oe 24 REMARKS UPON FERTILISATION j i ‘ i ‘ é . . 81 Resting anD Drying OFF . ‘ . i ; ‘ 7 «as 2 SHADING ‘ ‘: : ‘ ‘ 7 ‘ ‘ ri ‘ ‘ « 22 Soin i 7% ‘ ‘ 5 a ‘ ¥ . 7 é .. 14 . STOVE Aguartos ‘ ‘ é ‘ , * 4 . # ‘ » A TRELLISES AND TRAINING . i ‘ a ‘ é ‘ ia 2 VENTILATION % 7 . 7 ‘ é ; : ‘ ‘ » 4 WATERING ' és ‘ 7 a 7 ‘: § oe s« 18 GREENHOUSE PLANTS. A SELECTION OF GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS ‘ é - 198 Fiorists’ FLOWERS, ANNUALS, AND SOFT-wWOODED PLANTS . » 846 GREENHOUSES ¥ ‘ ‘ % 7 ‘ “ ‘ * 2 « 187 INTRODUCTION , % : i f ‘ z 4 . «+ 185 Pits anp FRAMES , i ‘ fs , - et an $ » 191 Sorts anD PoTTING ‘ "i 3 7 ‘ 4 a z « « 198 THE CONSERVATORY . : : : F ‘ i 4 r . 189 WATERING AND WATER . : ‘ ‘ x ‘ ‘ 5 - . 196 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. ABUTILON ROSEFLORUM , fe . 7 ‘ fs ; . 200 ACHIMENES, GROUP OF . ‘ w ‘ i i . . 84 AXcHMEA MARL@ REGINA . x“ é * s ‘ ‘ ‘ . AMARYLLIS BRILLIANT . é ‘ oo AT Vu LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. ANTHURIUM ANDREANUM ‘i rf FLORIBUNDUM é ‘ i 46 ORNATUM . 2 ‘ + ScHeRZERIANUM ROTHSCHILDIANUM. i WILLIAMSII. ¥ AZATBA House ‘ e _ Mrs, CARMICHAEL. BEGONIA BRILLIANT. ‘ ‘ ‘ i SOCOTRANA . ‘ ‘ BoMAREA CARDERIL z CALCHOLARIA CAMELLIA HOUSE . CHOISYA TERNATA ‘ CINERARIA ‘i ¥ CYCLAMEN GIGANTEUM ‘ 4 PERSICUM DIPLADENIA INSIGNIS . WILLIAMSII Erica House ‘ ‘ EuUcHARIS CANDIDA . ‘i ‘ % : % GRANDIFLORA . ’ EuRYcLuS AUSTRALASICA FRANCISCEA CALYCINA “ ‘ P ‘ 5 HABROTHAMNUS ELEGANS ARGENTEA HaMantuus KALBREYERI Hisiscus DENNISONIL . “4, SOHIZOPETALUS . Txora Durril . ‘ r » WILLIAMSIT ‘ é JASMINUM GRACILLIMUM. LAPAGERIA ROSEA ¥ ListANTHUS PRINCEPS . New HouuanpD House PHILAGERIA VEITCHIL . PHILESIA BUXIFOLIA . PRIMULA SINENSIS FIMBRIATA is ALBA PLENA, PsyCHOTRIA JASMINIFLORA . ‘ RHODODENDRON DUCHESS OF EDINBURGH 2 3 TAYLORILT. . SoLANUM HYBRIDUM COMPACTUM ‘ 4 3 QTEPHANOTIS FLORIBUNDA (ELVASTON VAR.) TILLANDSIa LINDENIIT REGELIANA TOXICOPHLAHA SPECTABILIS UTRICULARIA MONTANA PAGE 56 58 70 65 208 214 218 225 348 231 241 351 252 251 94 97 261 104 102 106 108 292 128 129 130 139 141 142 300 308 187 319 320 323 325 160 328 331 335 168 78 173 176 CHOICE STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS, STOVE PLANTS. INTRODUCTION. ora the earliest races of mankind had possessed no %| love for plants, and had not been impressed by the grand and noble outlines of the trees of the forest, the importance of these vegetable monarchs would soon have become manifest through their yielding not only the necessaries of life, but, by the aid of attention and culti- vation, supplying also its luxuries. Hence we find that, at a very early age, man was engaged in husbandry, and was busily occupied in cultivating the vine and the corn-pro- ducing plants, as well as trafficking in myrrh and spices. At the time the Greek Republic was in the zenith of its glory, a class of men called Rhizomate employed them- selves in the digging of roots, and in searching for herbs, which were principally applied to the healing art. Aristotle first founded a natural science of plants, but his writings on this subject have been lost. He was followed by his pupil Theophrastus ; and then for a long period we hear of no one prosecuting the study. The ancient Romans seem to have 2, STOVE PLANTS. cultivated a number of plants in their gardens and fields, but they never attained to any great degree of eminence in the science of cultivation. Dioscorides and Pliny were the first among the Romans to apply themselves to botanical study, but after their time it rapidly died out. We next find the Arabians occupying themselves in investigating the nature and qualities of plants, principally with the view to their application for medicinal purposes. Passing over the dark ages, and coming down to the fif- teenth century, we find that the study of plants again revived, and that the beauties of the vegetable kingdom were ap- preciated by men of high and low degree. In the sixteenth century one Otto Brunfels, of Strasburgh, published a trea- tise on plants, illustrated by wood engravings. From that time forward, the taste for plants went on steadily increas- ing until the time of Linneus, whose philosophic writings gave a strong impetus to the delightful study. Since Linneus’s time the knowledge of plants has been vastly extended by the diligent labours and searching inquiries of men of great and active minds, both at home and abroad, of whom among those of our own country may be named Sir Joseph Banks, Sir James Smith, Sir William Hooker, Robert Brown, Sir Joseph Paxton, Dr. Lindley, Thomas Moore, Dr. Masters, John Smith, Sir Joseph Hooker, &e., &c., men of whom any country might be proud, and with some of whom most plant-growers of the present day have been more or less intimately acquainted. Our continental neighbours can also boast of many equally great men, who have largely increased our knowledge of plants. Thus, in these days, not only may we gather delights from beholding the beautiful workings of nature in her vegetable garb, but we are also enabled to bring her boundless resources to bear practically upon our daily wants and luxuries. INTRODUCTION. 3 Almost every portion of the earth is clothed with vege- tation, each particular plant being adapted to the peculiar circumstances and conditions in which it is placed. Thus, the peat bog, the mountain, and the valley have each a dis- tinct vegetation; the chalk, the gravel, the clay, and the swamp have each their own peculiar plants. As we ascend mountains, we find the temperature gradually becoming lower, and vegetation decreasing in stature, until the region of perpetual snow where no vegetation exists is reached. We do not intend, however, to enter in these pages upon the geographical distribution of plants, nor to investigate the means by which various genera have been placed in the positions they occupy, except so far as to point out, that as different genera and species in a wild state are subject to different conditions of atmosphere, both as regards moisture and temperature, as well as to varieties of soil, as to the physical and chemical qualities of the materials of which it is composed, it is only reasonable to insist that those who attempt the cultivation of plants, should have some know- ledge of these matters, sufficient to enable them to imitate nature, so far as the artificial conditions with which they may have to deal will allow. The first division of this work is devoted to Stove Plants, that is to say, plants requiring a considerable degree of artificial heat in our climate; they are plants whose home is in the tropics—in the regions of palms, tree ferns, gigantic bamboos, and monster trees whose magnitude would amaze us in this country, the branches of these arboreal giants being in many instances laden with epiphytal orchids, bromeliads, aroids, and ferns, as well as with parasitical plants, such as Loranthus, which, like our own mistletoe (Viscum album), derive their nourishment from the sap of their supporter. These parasites decorate the trees B 2 4 STOVE PLANTS. with an endless variety of gorgeous flowers, while, in addition, their branches are beautifully festooned with large climbing plants, such as are familiar to cultivators in the species of Combretum, Passifiora, Cissus, Ipomea, Bougain- villea, Bignonia, and many others, which oftentimes reach from the ground to the very tops of their supporters, and hang across their branches like ropes to neighbouring trees, until the whole forms a tangled mass of splendid flowers and foliage utterly beyond the conception of those who have never seen a tropical forest. To collect and send home the riches of these tropical regions is a work of much cost, and is attended with great difficulties and danger, in the prosecution of which many highly intelli- gent and talented travellers have fallen victims either to the pestilential climate, the wild beasts of the country, or the treachery of, in many instances, the equally wild aborigines. To these men, who, by their arduous and self-sacrificing labours, have so largely increased our know- ledge of the vegetable kingdom, all honour is due, and we cannot pass them in this place without recording our best thanks and highest praises for their services, and at the same time expressing our deep regret for their logs. To our leading nurserymen and amateur horticulturists again, both at home and on the continent, who have contributed funds so profusely to facilitate the introduction of nature’s choicest gems to our gardens, the thanks of all plant lovers are due; these, we trust, will continue their good work. The editors of our numerous botanical and horticultural books and periodicals, moreover, deserve much praise for the spirited manner in which they lay these treasures before the public, both by means of beautifully executed drawings, and interesting and instructive essays. By this agency an interchange of thought and of practical PLANT STOVES. j 5 experience has been secured, with a result which is quite astonishing, so successfully is the cultivation of the immense number of species of plants which occupy our stoves and greenhouses carried on—results which certainly could not have been arrived at without co-operation of thought, brought. about in the way we have just mentioned. A very great. stimulus has also been given to the cultivation of plants by the liberal awards offered at the various horticultural exhibitions ; and the vast improvement in the style of growth which has thus been brought about, and the numerous newly- introduced plants which are exhibited, show that no ordinary amount of skill and perseverance has been brought to bear upon the subject, PLANT STOVES. HERE are many forms of hothouse which may be employed successfully for the growth of Stove Plants, such as span-roofs, half-spans, and lean-to houses, but for the growth of specimen plants the span- roofed house is undoubtedly the best, as it affords the plants more light and air, at the same time that it may be made to form an ornament in a garden where no other style of house could be tolerated. Half span-roofed houses are very useful for growing small plants, for furnishing the side tables in the specimen house; and the lean-to has its special advantages, for the back wall will accommodate many plants, which, if trained against it, will display their beauties to greater advantage. In such houses, moreover, we may produce abundance of blooms for cutting, which will spare the choicer specimens from being mutilated or disfigured ; and without some such structure, facilities of this kind could not be enjoyed. 6 STOVE PLANTS. We here give a ground plan and end section of a span- roofed house, suit- able for the culti- vation of specimen Stove Plants. It is fifty feet long, twenty feet wide, and twelve feet high, and con- tains a table next the —, outer wall, on each side and end, a walk three feet wide, and a centre table, which has a second table, ‘+ one foot higher, run- ning down its middle: these tables should be of slate, with iron supports, while the floor and path are best concreted with good Portland cement, mixed with sand, which makes a sub- stantial and comfort- able floor and path- way, and is easily kept clean, harbours no insects, and stands a great amount of IL wear and tear. The =| H———| double or folding ee PLANT STOVES. q doors are the best for such structures, because, if large plants have to be moved in and out, they afford greater space than the doors in ordinary use. While speaking of doors, it may be remarked that they should always be fixed so as to open inwards, which is more convenient, and, besides, the glass is not so liable to be broken through the violence of the wind. The side lights, or sashes, are two feet in height, and need not be made to open, but instead thereof, some large iron or slate ventilators should be built in the brickwork beneath them, opposite the hot-water pipes, as shown in the plan; by this means the air is prevented from blowing upon the plants in a raw or cold state. We also recommend that large drain’ pipes be laid in the ground, passing from the outside under the foundation to the inside of the house, and rising under the heating pipes, by which means fresh sweet air may be admitted, even in severe weather, if necessary, without detriment to‘the plants, which would not be the case unless it were warmed, as it would be in this case, by rising amongst the hot pipes. The lantern- roof shown in the figure we consider a very good style of top ventilation for a Stove, because it does not let the cold air in directly upon the plants. Some kinds of Stove Plants thrive best with a little bottom heat; we allude to such as I2oras, Dipladenias, &c., which must be grown in another house in which the centre stages, shown in the foregoing plan, must be replaced by a brick pit, in which the bottom heat can be supplied either by means of heated pipes, or a hot-water tank, the tank or hot-air chamber being covered in with some material that will allow the heat to pass through it to the material above. We have found slates, tiles, or corrugated iron very good materials for the purpose, or bottom heat may be obtained by the bed being filled with a body of tan or other fermenting material. 8 STOVE PLANTS. Where a tank or hot-water pipes are used, cocoa-nut fibre refuse will be found a very clean and lasting material. Those plants which require this treatment must be removed from the growing house when in bloom, and, if in summer, may be brought into the stove or conservatory. The lantern- roofed house may be objected to by some, on account of the additional expense of construction: if so, we must refer them to the ordinary span-roofed house, with sliding sashes, such as is shown in the woodcut at page 6. We must, how- ever, add, in reference to this matter, that when valuable plants are being provided for, it is true economy to have the best accommodation provided at first, even though it may lead to a few pounds of additional expenditure. HEATING, LANT stoves should be kept at a temperature ranging from 68° to 80° during summer, and from 60° to 70° during winter. Where the col- lection of plants is varied and extensive, it is well to have an intermediate house—that is, a house somewhat cooler than the one first indicated, but warmer than the ordinary greenhouse. Premising that as yet nothing has been discovered to supersede, or even to equal, a good hot-water apparatus for heating plant houses, we hold that the first and most important point to decide upon is the character of the boiler. Hot-water boilers are now made of shapes and patterns without end, and as most cultivators have some predilection in this matter, we leave them to make their own selection. There are, however, many things to be thought of before deciding this question. If the locality is HEATING. 9 such as to render it impracticable to dig far down into the ground before reaching water, or to prevent a drain being put below the boiler, then the upright tubular form of boilers is neither suitable nor safe; for, in cases of floods during winter, the water may rise and put out the fire, unless the stoke-hole is made watertight, which may be a troublesome and expensive process. We would, however, by no means depreciate these boilers, for where depth can be secured, and coke for fuel is within easy distance, we Jook upon them as being of first-class merit. Then we have cannon boilers, tubular boilers, common saddle-boilers,. terminal saddle-boilers, and boilers that require no setting,, the makers of all being able to give satisfactory reasons. why the particular form they adopt is the very best extant. That we have this diversity amongst boilers is no doubt a. great advantage, for one that may work admirably in one- place may not, through some peculiarity of place or posi- tion, be so thoroughly satisfactory in another; and, again, the fuel most readily available, and which may suit one class of boiler, may not be so readily obtained in another place, and, therefore, those who are so situated will natu-- rally have recourse to a boiler that will consume the fuel they have for feeding it with. We have not thought it necessary to mention any other system of heating than the ordinary one with hot-water boiler and pipes, because no one builds smoke flues now;. and the other systems which are adopted and spoken of in various works we have never tried, and, therefore, cannot. speak of them practically. Having selected the boiler, the pipes will be the next con- sideration. In regard to these, it is always true economy to have plenty of heating surface in the house—that is to say, a quantity which will give sufficient warmth with a. BB 10 STOVE PLANTS. moderate fire. Great waste of fuel, and much injury to the plants, result from being compelled to drive the boiler to its utmost, through want of piping and not having a sufii- cient surface; while, on the other hand, by having a good command of heat, there is a vast saving in fuel, and a far more genial atmosphere can be maintained. As a result of these conditions, the plants- will thrive far better, and the house be more enjoyable. On these grounds, therefore, it will be best to have four rows of piping—instead of three —round such a house as that here described; and this quantity will entirely obviate hard driving at any time. The boiler should be fixed outside the house, and entirely independent of it, for no matter how carefully the brick- work is built, it will become defective by constant wear, and then, through the escape of smoke and sulphureous gases, the ruin of many fine specimens may be brought about in a very short time. For jointing the pipes we have for many years used india-rubber rings, which are made: specially for the sizes in which the pipes are cast, and we find that they answer well, as a joint can be made quickly and very cheaply ; we have had some of these rings in use for upwards of twenty-six years, and prefer them to any other system. If anything should go wrong with either the pipes or joints they can be separated easily, and without loss or expense through having to sacrifice one or more lengths of piping. Red lead and Portland cement joints are frequently used for hot-water pipes, also iron filings are sometimes substituted for this purpose. Many plant growers make a practice of steaming their houses regularly. This may sometimes be beneficial, but still the practice is open to objection, and if four rows of pipes are used, as before recommended, it need not be resorted to in order to increase the heat, while for any GLAZING. 11 other purpose it is not necessary, for, by frequent applica- tions of the syringe, and by pouring water upon the tables and floors, a sufficiently moist atmosphere can be maintained, without risk of any kind. GLAZING. VERY few words upon this subject will suffice. The kind of glass we use is 21-oz. English sheet glass, and we find it the most serviceable, as it is not easily broken, either by cleaning or by any ordinary usage. Nothing is gained by having the squares very small, but at the same time we dislike very large ones, as they are extremely liable to be broken in frosty weather. If the panes are about two feet six imches in length, and nine inches in breadth, they will have a very good appearance, the same width being used for the upright side sashes as for those on the roof. Care should be taken in selecting the glass free from blisters, as these are very destructive to the plants, causing burns or scalds on the leaves. VENTILATION. mgOOD ventilation is of the highest importance, for a constant renewal of air in plant houses is essential to the well-bemg of the occupants ; indeed, where the necessary temperature can be maintained, we would never quite close the houses, day or night, except in severe weather. Let us, however, be properly understood upon this subject. By good ventilation, we mean always to avoid draughts and currents of cold air, these being most 12 STOVE PLANTS. injurious to plants of all kinds. The adoption of the underground ventilators recommended in the construction of the house (page 6) will entirely obviate any ground of apprehension on this point; and if the sides of the venti- lators in the lantern roof are covered with fine gauze wire or perforated zinc, evil will be most satisfactorily guarded - against. The use of the gauze or zine will only be necessary during winter, as in the summer a greater volume of air may be admitted with advantage, and consequently the heated portion will require a readier means of exit. Stoves ventilated upon these principles will always have a fresh and healthy atmosphere—a condition which will not only impart strength and vigour to the plants, but will also, at the same time, be far more enjoyable to the amateur cultivator and the members of his family. Some persons may think we have attributed too much importance to this question of ventilation. We recommend those who entertain these views to observe closely the condition and appearance of plants in well-ventilated and in ill-ventilated stoves, and they will very soon ac- knowledge that we are correct in saying it is a point of vital importance. SHADING. HERE was, a few years back, a great want of some better material than that which we have been accustomed to for shading plant structures—a material which should possess sufficient strength, without being so thick as to cast too deep a gloom over the interior of the house. We have much pleasure in saying that we have at length met with an article in our new hothouse shading SHADING. 13 which combines all these necessary requirements. It is a strong, durable, cotton netting, woven in squares, but so close: as to exclude the direct rays of the sun, whilst it gives the greatest amount of light attainable through shading. It stands exposure much longer than canvas, and, owing ,to its thick texture, may be used as a protection against frost. Next to this the best material we can recommend is canvas. In mounting the blinds one side must be made fast to a strong” roller, and the other must be nailed to a lath fixed lengthwise near the top of the sashes, care being taken that the blinds are quite equal in breadth throughout, or the roller will not rum regular. A narrow covering should be fixed along the ridge of the house, under which the blind may rest when not in use, in order to protect it from wet, The blinds and rollers may be taken down during winter, as little or no shade will be required during that period; and if they are looked to after damp weather, and in winter thoroughly dried and stored away in a dry shed, they will last for several years. Some cultivators, however, like to use them as a protection in winter on frosty nights, as recommended in our Orchid Manual ; and when this is done, they must be rolled up at daybreak, so that no light may be excluded from the plants during the short winter days. Blinds for the sides can be made of canvas or tiffany; we use and prefer the latter. The strips should have rings sewed to them on both edges, to fasten on hooks, fixed in the house at corresponding distances. This fixing is neces- sary to prevent the wind blowing the blind on one side, and thus exposing any part of the interior to the sun’s influence in an unguarded moment. 14 STOVE PLANTS. CISTERNS. S|HESE are very necessary in all houses devoted to plant growing, as the rain water, which may then be collected from the roofs, is the best that can be used. To have this water in a proper state for the plants, the cistern or tank must be inside the house, and so exposed that the water may become nearly of the same temperature as the atmosphere. Cold water applied to the roots of Stove Plants is most pernicious. Therefore, having fixed on the most convenient part of the house for the tank, build up the sides from the floor, making the centre table the top, or sink it below the ground level. In the latter case, it would be desirable to have a pipe in connection with the boiler passing through it, for when stored below the surface the water will otherwise be much colder than the house. The best material for cisterns is slate, but brickwork, with a good coating of Portland cement, will answer the purpose equally well, and is perhaps to be preferred when they are placed below the ground level. Galvanised iron tanks are very much used, and are very durable where employed above ground. SOIL. 5 before stated, different plants affect different soils, and therefore the cultivator must endeavour to utilise the hints thus given to him, if he wishes to succeed in his labours. Hence the importance of making composts suitable to the requirements of the plants. To have this department under proper control, a place should be set apart in some convenient quarter of the garden, for ‘SOIL, 15 keeping a stock of the different kinds of earths, manures, &c., which are required, as well as a supply of pots. This is designated the compost yard. The various kinds of earth or soil should be neatly stacked up, in order that by age they may become mellow, and better adapted for the pot- ting of tender plants than when newly dug. In selecting soils it must be remembered that the top spit is always preferable. Loam.—This is of two kinds—light and heavy. The first is generally pale yellow in colour, but sometimes blackish; the latter is deep yellow, and feels somewhat greasy when taken in the hand. These should be stacked ‘separately, with the turf and living grass downwards, placing a layer of manure over every layer of loam of the heavy quality; in this way the manure will become thoroughly incorporated with it, and when cut out for use it will be found in a nice friable state: the light loam is best stacked by itself in a pure state. The quality of loam varies considerably in dif- ferent parts of the country. We ourselves use a very good kind, which is obtained from Hertfordshire. Peat.—This is also of two kinds. That which is composed principally of decayed mosses and woody materials, and is mostly used for burning, is not of much value for in-door plant growing, though some kinds of plants thrive well in it. The peat most serviceable for our purpose is composed of decayed vegetable matter, and contains a considerable amount of sand; it should be stacked with the top side downwards. Leaf mould.—This is formed of thoroughly decomposed leaves which have been collected in autumn; these should be kept moist, and are best frequently turned over to facilitate decay. This kind of soil ought not to be used before it is two or three years old. Manure.—A good heap of this should always be kept in 16 STOVE PLANTS. the compost yard, so that none may be ever used which is. not thoroughly decomposed. Sand.—This should be kept under cover, and may be either white or brown. The white or silver sand procured at Reigate in Surrey is the best; next to this comes a white sand found in Bedfordshire, and after that sharp river sand. These various kinds of soil being stored up in the compost yard, and fit for use, any of the mixtures recommended in the following pages can be made up for use, as required. POTTING. HE first things to be considered are the Pots. Of these, however, we need say but a few words, as every one is well acquainted with flower pots. For specimen Stove or Greenhouse Plants, the best pots are those with a movable bottom, because the plant can be set upon a stand, the pot gently slipped down, and the condition of its roots and drainage examined with the greatest ease to the operator, and perfect safety to the specimen. Next comes the drainage. On this subject very little will be said in the body of this work, not because it is of little consequence, for we hold it to be of the highest importance, but because it is not a thing which bears reading over many times, for it is utterly impossible to make the draining of a flower pot an interesting subject. Therefore we say, once for all, drain well, or success will never be realised. By draining well, we do not mean the throwing of a large quantity of potsherds into the pot in a careless manner, but placing a few pieces carefully—a large piece over the hole, some smaller ones round about and over this, with the hollow side downwards, and finishing off with still smaller ones, or some charcoal, POTTING. 17 which will be preferable, the whole being covered with rough peat fibre, to prevent the soil mixing with it. Some growers begin repotting at a stated time in the spring, and go through their whole collection at one time. This system may be convenient, but it is certainly unwise and most unnatural ;. indeed, it is impossible to lay down any definite rule, as some few things must be repotted directly after blooming. . Now,. as all plants do not start into growth at the same time, though in the same temperature, those which are dormant cannot take up the nourishment from the new soil, which consequently by frequent waterings becomes soddened, and comparatively old before the roots are in a fit state to move into it. It has always appeared to us—and wherever prac- ticable, we have been guided by this in our practice—that the very best time to repot a plant is in spring, just when it begins to push forth new growth, because then the roots and branches are acting in unison, and both are in a fit state to receive fresh nutriment. 5 Everything being in perfect readiness—the compost pro- perly mixed, and in a nice half-moist condition, neither wet nor dry, and the pot either new or clean, dry, and properly drained—the plant to be shifted, if a large one, should be stood upon the stand before mentioned, the pot slipped down, and the old drainage taken away. The roots, if matted, must be carefully disentangled, as much of the old soil being removed as can be done without injury to them. Then some of the new compost must be put into the fresh pot, just sufficient to bring the surface of the old soil to within about half an inch of the top, and having carefully placed the plant. in the middle, and at the proper level, the new soil is to: be filled in around it, care being taken to press it down quite firmly. After this operation has been performed, a little higher temperature and extra shade should be given 18 STOVE PLANTS, to the plants, to prevent them suffering from the slight check which repotting naturally must give them, and to encourage them to put forth fresh roots more quickly. The only difference in shifting or repotting large and small plants is, that in the case of the latter, the plant can remain in the-hand of the operator, and the stand need not be brought into use. Those plants which have strong, coarse roots may have a large shift each time, but care must be taken not to over-pot those having fine and delicate roots, as it is far better to repot twice, or three times, than to risk the health if not the life of a plant by over~ potting. Little more need be said upon this subject, save that the sieve, 80 necessary to some cultivators, should be utterly dis- carded, and the soil prepared by being chopped into pieces with a spade; by the time it is mixed together, it becomes sufficiently fine, and needs no sifting. Those plants which bloom better when kept in small pots, and which are not to be shifted, should, at the period when others are repotted, have the surface of the soil in their pots stirred, some of the worn- out material being removed, and replaced with new. WATERING. mFTER the potting season, and as soon as the roots have begun to run freely in the new soil, water will have to be supplied more liberally than during the winter, or resting period ; while, as the days increase in length, and the sun in power, scarcely too much can be given to Stove Plants, if the roots are in an active state and abundant throughout the soil, and the drainage is in good order. At this period, too, the syringe must be brought into WATERING. 19 play, to refresh and keep the foliage clean, and to create a genial moist atmosphere, which is so essential to tropical plants. Care must, however, be taken that the syringe is not used with the sun shining fully upon the house, or the result will be the burning of the leaves, and the disfigurement of the plants for a long time. There are also some few kinds of plants that do not like to have water thrown over their leaves, and the peculiarities of these must be attended to. As the season of growth draws to a close, and the days become shorter and colder, the atmosphere of the stove must be gradually reduced to a drier state, and less water must be given to the plants, both to the roots and overhead. When the wood has become thoroughly ripened, the plants will again become dormant, or so far dormant that no active growth will take place, though some will put forth their flowers, and in this state they will remain through the winter months. The best time of the day for watering plants during the summer season is towards cvening, after the houses are closed; but in autumn and winter this operation should always be performed in the morning. During the growing season one thing requires particular attention, and that is ventilation, a matter on which some general advice has been already given. Fresh air must be admitted in the spring sparingly, and increased as summer advances, when, of course, it may be freely admitted, but always in such a manner that it may become partially warmed before the plants feel its influence. By about the middle of September less air will be required, so that the quantity admitted must be gradually diminished until the end of autumn, when very little indeed will be required, and that which is admitted must be let in so as to become warmed in its progress. 20 STOVE PLANTS. INSECTS. ae ROPICAL plants are very liable to the attacks of H| several kinds of insects, of which the more in- jurious are:—the Green Fly (Aphis), the Mealy Bug (Coccus adonidum), the Turtle Scale (Coceus testudo),. the Black Thrips (Thrips adonidwm), and the Red Spider (dearus tellarius). These all attack Stove Plants to such an extent as to render them unsightly, and if they are not diligently searched for and destroyed, they will soon bring the plants into a sickly condition, which will completely destroy their beauty, even if it does not end in death. The Green Fly may be destroyed by fumigation with tobacco or tobacco paper, or by syringing with tobacco water, or dusting with snuff. In the latter case, the snuff must, after a day or two, be well washed off with the syringe. The Mealy Bug is a small white powdery insect, of which the female is wingless, and too frequently found upon our Stove Plants. The insects must be carefully washed off by means of a small brush, and warm soft soap and water, or by employing some of the specifics which are advertised at the end of the volume, all of which are excellent. remedies, so that we cannot recommend one in preference to others. The Turtle or Brown Scale is also a great pest on some kinds of plants, but it may be destroyed in the same manner as Mealy Bug. The Thrips is a very injurious insect, but it may be got rid of by fumigation with tobacco or tobacco paper, which, if properly used, will totally destroy them; or the plants may be syringed by some of the before-mentioned remedies. The Red Spider speedily renders unsightly the foliage of INSECTS. 21 any plant that it attacks, destroying the fresh greenness of the leaves, and turning them to a dirty white or brown. The most effectual mode of destroying this pest, when it has been allowed to spread, is to sprinkle some flowers of sulphur upon the hot-water pipes, and shut the house up close; this remedy must be used with great care, for if the pipes should be too warm, the foliage would suffer. It is far better, however, to keep a careful watch upon the plants, and destroy the spider when it first makes its appearance, as extreme measures oftentimes cause the death of the plants. Some cultivators maintain that insects are in all cases the effects of disease, and not the cause; and that plants, when treated in a proper manner, will not become infested by them. Though not prepared to endorse this assertion in its fullest sense, we yet believe it to be correct in the main. There is no better safeguard against any serious attacks of insects than keeping up a vigorous state of health in the plants, and maintaining strict cleanliness in the structures in which they are grown, and in the various materials brought into use in the course of their cultivation. Great care should be taken in fumigating. It is better to smoke two or three times at intervals than to give too strong a dose at one time. Care should also be taken that the tobacco does not flare. 22 STOVE PLANTS. TRELLISES AND TRAINING. AIANY of our most handsome Stove Plants are climbers, or if not climbers in the true meaning of the word, are trailing plants, requiring the support of a trellis of some kind to enable them to display their flowers to the best advantage. Trellises are now prin- cipally made of galvanised wire, which is much better than when painted, as it lasts longer, and is always free from rust. Constructed of this material, they are lighter in appearance, and more durable, than when made of wood; and, more- over, can be made to any particular shape, according to the taste of the cultivator. The umbrella-shaped trellis is a kind admirably adapted for such plants as Hewacentris, Lapageria, &e.; while for such as Dipladenias, Allamandas, and Stephanotis, we prefer the balloon shape to any other. The pillars of the stove may have wires fixed around them, on which to fasten climbing plants, and wires taken from one pillar to the other may form festoons, which will have a beautiful effect in a large house. For furnishing these situations the plants should be planted out in a border, or in slate boxes, as they will succeed very much better when | so grown than when in pots; but as they will probably grow too freely, the pruning-knife must be applied whenever it becomes necessary. Wire baskets may also be used for many kinds of plants, and they afford a pleasing change; indeed, many plants, such as