YY, iy a f /, yy Yj & 5 / Yj yp ay if SA TE. ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY ase: NEW YorK STATE COLLEGES OF AGRICULTURE AND Homes EcoNoMICs AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY Cornell University Libra TAT INTERNATIONAL FORESTRY EXHIBITION. Oo WORKS ON FOREST SCIENCE. By tae REV. J. C. BROWN, LL.D. 0 EpinspurcH : OLIVER & BOYD. London : SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., anp W. RIDER & SON. MontreaL: DAWSON, BROTHERS. —_—_——_—.—______— I.—Introduction to the Study of Modern Forest Hconomy. Price 5s. In this there are brought under consideration the exten- sive destruction of forests which has taken place in Europe and elsewhere, with notices of disastrous consequences which have followed—diminished supply of timber and firewood, droughts, floods, landslips, and sand-drifts—and notices of the appliances of Modern Forest Science success- fully to counteract these evils by conservation, planting, and improved exploitation, under scientific administration and management. ExrTrRacT FROM PreFAcE.—‘ At a meeting held on the 28th of March last year (1883), presided over by the Marquis of Lothian, while the assemblage was representative of all interests—scientific, practical, and professional—it was resolved :—‘‘ That it is expedient in the interests of torestry, and to promote a movement for the establishment of a National School of Forestry in Scotland, as well as with a view of furthering and stimulating a greater improvement in the scientific management of woods in Scotland and the sister countries which has manifested itself during recent years, that there should be held in Edin- burgh, during 1884, and at such season of the year as may be arranged, an International Exhibition of forest products and other objects of interest connected with forestry.” It was then moved, seconded, and agreed :—‘‘ That this meeting pledges itself to give its hearty co-opera- tion and patronage to the promotion of an International Forestry Exhibi- tion in Edinburgh in 1884 ; and those present resolve to give their best efforts and endeavours to render the Exhibition a success, and of such importance and general interest as to make it worthy of the name of International.” 5 x ‘It is in accordance with this resolution, and in discharge of obligations which it imposed, that this volume has been prepared.’ 4 2 II.—The Forests of England; and the Management of ‘ them in Bye-gone Times. Price 6s. Ancient forests, chases, parks, warrens, and woods, are described; details are given of destructive treatment to which they have been subjected, and of legislation and literature relating to them ‘previous to the present century. Exrract From Prerace.—‘ Contrast with this [the paucity of works in English on Forest Science], the richness of Continental languages in literature on such subjects. I have had sent to me lately Ofversight of Svenska Skogsliteraturen, Bibliograjiska Studieren of Axel Cnattingius, a list of many books and papers on Forest Science published in Sweden ; I have also had sent to me a work by Don José Jordana y Morera, Ingenero de Montes, under the title of Apuntes Bibliographico Forestale, a catalogue raisonné of 1126 printed books, MSS., &c., in Spanish, on subjects connected with Forest Science. ‘Iam at present preparing for the press a report on measures adopted in France, Caninais Hungary, and elsewhere, to arrest and utilise drift- sand by planting them with grasses and trees ; and in Der Huropaeische Flug-sand und Seine Cultur, von Josef Wessely General Domaenen- Inspecktor, und Forst-Academie-Direktor, published in Vienna in 1873, I find a list of upwards of 100 books and papers on that one department of the subject, of which 30, in Hungarian, Latin, and German, were published in Hungary alone. ‘ According to the statement of one gentleman, tc whom application was made by a representative of the Government at the Cape, for infor- mation in regard to what suitable works on Forest Economy could be procured from Germany, the works on Forst- Wissenchaft, Forest Science, and Forst- Wirthchaft, Forest Economy, in the German language may be reckoned by cartloads. From what I know of the abundance of works in German, on subjects connected with Forestry, I am not surprised that such a report should have been given. And with the works in German may be reckoned the works in French. ‘In Hermann Schmidt's Fach Katalogue, published in Prague last year (1876), there were given the titles, &c., of German works in Forst und Jagd-Literatur, published from 1870 to 1875 inclusive, to the 3lst of October of the latter year, amounting in all to 650, exclusive of others given in an appendix, containing a selection of the works published prior to 1870. They are classified thus :—General Forest Economy, 93 ; Forest Botany, 60 ; Forest History and Statistics, 50 ; Forest Legislation and Game Laws, 56; Forest Mathematics, 25; Forest Tables and Measurements, &c., 148; Forest Technology, 6; Forest Zoology, 19; Peat and Bog Treatment, 14; Forest Calendars, 6; Forest and Game Periodicals, 27 ; Forest Union and Year Books, 13; Game, 91; Forest and Game in Bohemian, 44. In all, 652. Upwards of a hundred new works had been published annually. Amongst the works mentioned is avolume entitled Die Literatur der letzten sieben Jahre (1862-1872) aus 3 dem Gesammigebiete der Land-und Forst-wirthschaft mit Binschluss der landw. Geweber u. der Jagd, in deutscher, franzdsischer u englisher Sprache Herausg. v. d. Buchandl, v. Gerold and Co., in Wein, 1873, a valuable catalogue filling 278 pages in large octavo. ‘This volume is published as a small contribution to the literature of Britain, on subjects pertaining to Forest Science. ‘It is aiter due consideration that the form given to the work—that of a compilation of what has been stated in works previously published —has been adopted. III.—Forestry of Norway. Price 5s. There are described in successive chapters the general features of the country. Details are given of the geo- graphical distribution of forest trees, followed by discussions of conditions by which this has been determined—heat, moisture, soil, and exposure. The effects of glacial action on the contour of the country are noticed, with accounts of existing glaciers aud snow-fields. And information is supplied in regard to forest exploitation and the transport of timber, in regard to the export timber trade, to public instruction in sylviculture, and to forest administration, and to ship-building and shipping. Extract From Prerace.—‘In the spring of 1877, while measures were being taken for the formation of an Arboretum in Edinburgh, I issued a pamplet entitled The Schools of Forestry in Hurope: a Plea for the Creation of a School of Forestry in connection with the Arboretum in Hdinburgh. After it was made known that arrangements were being carried out for the formation of an International Exhibition of forest products, and other objects of interest connected with forestry, in Edin- burgh with a view to promoting the movement for the establishment of a National School of Forestry in Scotland, and with a view of furthering and stimulating a greater improvement in the scientific management of woods in Scotland, and the sister countries, which has manifested itself during recent years, the council of the Kast Lothian Naturalists’ Club resolved on having a course of lectures or popular readings on some subject connected with forestry, which might enable the members and others better to profit by visits to the projected Exhibi- tion, and which should be open to the public ata moderate charge, The conducting of these was devolved upon me, who happened to be vice- president of the club. The following treatise was compiled from information then in my possession, or within my reach, and it constituted the basis of these lectures.’ A IV.~Finland: its Forests and Forest Management. Price 6s 6d. In this volume is supplied information in regard to the lakes and rivers of Finland, known as The Land of a Thousand Lakes, and as The Last-born Daughter of the Sea ; in regard to its physical geography, including notices of the contour of the country, its geological formations and indications of glacial action, its flora, fauna, and climate; and in regard to its forest economy, embracing a discussion of the advantages and disadvantages of Svedjande, the Sartage of France, and the Koomaree of India; and details of the development of Modern Forest Economy in Finland, with notices of its School of Fores- try, of its forests and forest trees, of the disposal of its forest products, and of its legislation and literature in forestry are given. Extract From PReFAce.—‘I happened to spend the summer of 1879 in St. Petersburg, ministering in the British and American Chapel in that city, while the pastor sought relaxation for a few months at home. I was for years the minister of the congregation worshipping there, and I had subsequently repeatedly spent the summer among them in similar circumstances, I was at the time studying the Forestry of Europe; and I availed myself of opportunities afforded by my journey thither through Norway, Sweden, and Finland, by my stay in Russia, and by my return through Germany and France, to collect information bearing upon the enquiries in which I was engaged. On my return to Scotland I contributed to the Journal of Forestry a series of papers which were afterwards reprinted under the title Glances at the Forests of Northern Hurope. In-the preface to this pamphlet I stated that in Denmark may be studied the remains of forests in pre-historic times ; in Norway, luxuriant forests managed by each proprietor as seemeth good in his own eyes; in Sweden, sustained systematic endeavours to regulate the management of forests in accordance with the latest deliverances of modern science; in Finland, Sartage disappearing before the most advanced forest economy of the day; and in Russia, Jardinage in the north, merging into more scientific management in Central Russia, and Réboisement in the south. This volume is a study of information which I then collected, together with information which I previously possessed, or have subsequently obtained, in regard to the Forests and Forestry of Finland. : Translation of Extracts from Letters from Dr A. BLomavist, Director of the Finnish National School of Forestry at Evois :—‘On my return from Salmos three weeks ago I had the great pleasure to receive your volume on the Forests and Forest Management in Finland. I return 5 you grateful thanks for the gift, and no less for publishing a description of the forestal condition of our country. It is with sentiments of true gratitude I learn that you had previously taken part in a work so important to our country as the preparation of a new edition of the New Testament in Finnish. Your descriptions of our natural. scenery are most excellent and interesting. Personally I feel most interest in your accounts of Koomaree, I value it much. and not less so your concurrent final eonclusion in regard to the effects of the exercise of it in Finland.’ Translation of Statement by M, De La Grye, in the Revue des Eaux et Férets of January 1884 :—‘ In an address delivered some weeks since at a banquet of exhibitors in the French section at Amsterdam, M. Herisson, Minister of Commerce, expressed an intention to publish a series of small books designed to make known to French merchants foreign lands in a commercial point of view. If the Minister of Commerce wishes to show to our merchants the resources possessed by Finland, he need not go far to seek information which may be useful to them, they will be found in a small volume which has just been published by Mr John Croumbie Brown. ‘ Mr Brown is one of those English ministers, who, travelling over the world in all directions [some at their own cost], seeking to spread the Word of the Lord in the form of Bibles translated into all languages, know how to utilise the leisure left to them at times while prosecuting this mission. Some occupy themselves with physical science, others with archeology, some with philology, many with commerce ; Mr Brown has made a special study of sylviculture. He has already published on this subject many works, from amongst which we may cite these : Hydrology of South Africa ; The Forests of England ; The Schools of Forestry in Europe ; Réboisement in France; Pine Plantations on Sand Wastes in France. + ‘His last book on Finland is the fruit of many journeys made in that country, which he visited for the first time in 1833, but whither he has returned frequently since that time. Mr Brown gives narratives of his voyages on the lakes which abound in Finland, and his excursions in the immense forests, the exploitation of which constitutes the principal industry of the country. The School of Forestry at Evois has furnished to him much precise information in regard to the organisation of the service, and the legislation and the statistics of forests, which, added to what he had procured by his own observation, has enabled him to make a very complete study of this country, poetically designated The Land of a Thousand Lakes, and which might also justly be called The Kingdom of the Forest, for there this reigns sovereign,’ V.—Forest Lands and Forestry of Northern Russia. Price 6s 6d. Details are given of a trip from St. Petersburg to the forests around Petrozavodsk on Lake Onega, in the government of Olonetz; a description of the forests 6 on that government by Mr Judrae, a forest official of high position, and of the forests of Archangel by Mr Hepworth Dixon, of Lapland, of the land of the Samoides and of Nova Zembla; of the exploitation of the forests by Jardinage, and of the evils of such exploitation; and of the'export timber trade, and disposal of forest products. In connection with discussions of the physical geography of the region information is supplied in regard to the contour and general appearance of the country ; its flora, its forests, and the palaeontological botany of ‘the regions beyond, as viewed by Professor Heer and Count Saporta ; its fauna, with notices of game, and with copious lists of coleoptera and lepidoptera, by Forst-Meister Gunther, of Petrozavodsk. Exrract From Prerace.—‘In the spring of 1877 I published a brochure entitled The Schools of Forestry in Europe: a Flea for the Crea- tion of a School of Forestry in connection with the Arboretum in Edin- burgh, in which with details of the arrangements made for instruction in Forest Science in Schools of Forestry in Prussia, Saxony, Hanover, Uesse, Darmstadt, Wurtemburg, Bavaria, Austria, Poland, Russia, Finland, Sweden, France, Italy, and in Spain, and details of arrange- ments existing in Rdioburgh for instruction in most of the subjects in- cluded amongst preliminary studies, I submitted for consideration the opinion, ‘‘ that with the acquisition of this Arboretum, and with the ex- isting arrangements for study in the University of Edinburgh, and in the Watt Institution and School of Arts, there are required only facil.- ties for the study of what is known on the Continent as Forest Science to enable these Institutions conjointly, or any one of them, with the help of the other, to take a place amongst the most completely equipped Schools of Forestry in Europe, and to undertake the training of foresters for the discharge of such duties as are now required of them in India, in our Colonies, and at home.” ‘This year has seen world-wide arrangements for an International Exhibition of forest products and other objects of interest connected with. forestry in Edinburgh, *‘In the interests of forestry, and to pro- mote a movement for the establishment of a School of Forestry in Scot- land, as well as with a view of furthering and stimulating a greater im- provement in the scientific management of woods in Scotland and the sister countries which has manifested itself during recent years,” ‘The following is one of a series of volumes published with a view to introduce into English forestal literature detailed information on some of the points on which informatiou is supplied to students at Schools of Forestry on the Continent ; and to make better known the breadth of study which is embraced in what is known there as Forstwissensca/t, or Forest Science.’ , 7 VI.—French Forest Ordinance of 1669; with Historical Sketch of Previous Treatment of Forests in France. Price 4s. The early history of forests in France is given, with de- tails of devastations of these going on in the first half of the seventeenth century; with a translation of the Ordi- nance of 1669, which is the basis of modern forest econo- my; and notices of forest exploitation in Jardinage, in La Methode & Tire et Aire,andin La Methode des Comparti- ments, Exrract From Prerace.—‘ “The Celebrated Forest Ordinance of 1669 :” Such is the character and designation generally given at the present day to the Ordinance in question. It is known, by reputation at least, in every country on the Continent of Europe; but, so far as is known to me, it hasnever before been published in English dress, It may possibly be considered antiquated ; but, on its first promulgation, it was welcomed, far beyond the bounds of France, as bringing life to the dead ; and I know of no modern system of Forest Exploitation, based on modern Forest Science, in which I cannot trace its influence. In the most advanced of these—that for which we are indebted to Hartig and Cotta of Saxony—I see a development of it like to the development of the butterfly from what may be seen in the structure of the chrysalis ; and thus am I encouraged to hope that it may prove suggestive of bene- ficial arrangements, even where it does not detail what it may be deemed desirable to adopt. ‘In my translation I have followed an edition issued with Royal ap- proval in 1753, with one verbal alteration to bring it into accordance with certain older approved editions, and with another verbal alteration to bring it into accordance with editions issued in 1699, 1723, 1734, and 1747. Translation of notice by M. Dz La Grrx for July 1883 in the Revue des Eaux et Férets: ‘England, which with her immense possessions in India, in Canada, and in the Cape of Good Hope, is beyond all question a State rich in forests, has never up to the present time given to this portion of her domains more than a very moderate share of her attention ; but for some years past public opinion is becoming alarmed, in view of the immense devastations which have been committed in them, and the forest question coming forward spontaneously has become the subject of numerous publications: amongst which, after the excellent monthly collection, the Journal of Forestry and Estate Management, comes the Translation of the Ordinance of 1669, which has just been published by Mr John Croumbie Brown. This translation of a monument of juris- prudence, well known in France, but which has never before been repro- duced in English, has furnished to Mr Brown an opportunity of giving a historical sketch of French Forest Legislation, and an exposition of the 8 different methods of exploitation followed in our country. Drawn from the best sources, and commented on with talent, these documents form an elegant volume, which the author has made the more complete by binding with it a summary of the treatise he has published on the Forests of England,’ VII. —Pine Plantations ou Sand Wastes in France. Price 7s. In this are detailed the appearances presented by the Landes of the Gironde before and after culture, and the Landes of La Sologne; the, legislation and literature of France in regard to the planting of the Landes with trees ; the characteristics of the sand wastes; the natural his- tory, culture, and exploitation of the maritime pine, and of the Scots fir; and the diseases and injurious influences to which the maritime pine is subject. Exrracts FRoM Prerace.—‘ The preparation of this volume for the press was undertaken in consequence of a statement in the Standard and Mail, a Capetown paper, of the 22d July 1876, to the effect that in the estimates submitted to Parliament £1000 had been put down for the Cape Flats, it was supposed with a view to its being employed in car- rying out planting operations as a means of reclaiming the sandy tracts - beyond Salt River. ‘This volume was originally compiled in view of what seemed to he required at the Cape of Good Hope. It has been revised and printed now, as a contribution towards a renewed enterprise to arrest aud utilise eand-wastes which stretch from Table Mountain to the Hottentot Holland Mountains; and additional information is forthcoming if it should be desired.’ VIII.—Reboisement in France; or, Records of the Re- planting of the Alps, the Cevennes, and the Pyrenees, with Trees, Herbage, and Bush, with a view to arresting and preventing the de- structive consequences of torrents. Price 12s. In this are given a résume of Surell’s study of Alpine torrents, of the literature of France relative to Alpine tor- rents, and of remedial measures which have been proposed for adoption to prevent the disastrous consequences fol- 9 lowing from them—translations of documents and enact- ments, showing what legislative and executive measures have been taken by the Government of France in connec- tion with réboisement as a remedial application against destructive torrents—and details in regard to the past, present, and prospective aspects of the work. Extract From Prerace.—‘ In a treatise on the Hydrology of South Africa I have given details of destructive effects of torrential floods at the Cape of Good Hope and Natal, and referred to the measures adopted in France to prevent the occurrence of similar disastrous floods there. The attention of the Legislative Assembly at the Cape of Good Hope was, last year, called by one of the members of the Assembly to the importance of planting trees on unproductive Crown lands. On learn- ing that this had been done I addressed to the editor of the Cape Argus a communication, of which the following is a copy :— ‘ **T have before me details of destructive effects of torrents which have occurred since I left the Colony in the beginning of 1867. Towards the close of that year there occurred one, the damage occasioned by which to roads and to house property at Port Elizabeth alone was estimated at from £25,000 to £30,000, Within a year thereafter a similar destructive torrent occurred at Natal, in regard to which it was stated that the damage done to public works alone was estimated at £50,000, while the loss to private persons was estimated variously from £50,000 to £100,000. In the following year, 1869, a torrent in the Western Province occa- sioned the fall of a railway bridge, which issued in loss of life and loss of property, and personal injuries, for one case alone of which the rail- - Way proprietors were prosecuted for damages amounting to £5000. In Beaufort West a deluge of rain washed down the dam, and the next year the town was flooded by the waters of the Gamko; and the next year, 1871, Victoria West was visited with a similar disaster. Such are the sums and the damages with which we have to deal in connection with this question, as it affects the case; and these are only the most remarkable torrents of the several years referred to. I have spoken of millions of francs being spent on réboisement in France, and some may be ready to ery out, ‘ Nothing like such an expenditure can be under- taken at the Cape!’ Perhaps not ; but the losses occasioned by the torrents seem to amount at present to about a million of francs in the -year. This falls in a great measure on individuals, that would fall on the community ; and the community in return would benefit by water retained to fertilize the earth, instead of being lost in the sea, and by _firewood and timber being grown where now there is none. ‘These are facts well deserving of consideration in the discussion of the expediency of planting Crown lands with trees.” ; : ©Towards the close of last year, 1874, still more disastrous effects were produced by torrential floods. According to the report given by one of the Colonial newspapers, the damages done could not be esti- mated at much less than £300,000, According to the report given by 10 another, the damage done to public works alone was estimated at £350,000,—eight millions, seven hundred and fifty thousand francs. And my attention was called anew to the subject. ‘On addressing myself to M. Faré, Director-General of the Administra- tion of Forests in France, there was afforded to me every facility I could desire for extending and verifying the information I had previously col- lected in regard to the works of réboisement to which I have referred. Copies of additional documents were supplied to me, with copies of works sanctioned by the Administration, and arrangements were made for my visiting and inspecting, with every assistance required, the works begun and the works completed ; and thus I have been enabled to sub- mit a much more complete report than it would otherwise have been in my power to produce, ‘While the compilation I have prepared owes its publication at this time to the occurrence of the inundations of last year at the Cape of Good Hope, the publication has been undertaken in the hope that in other countries besides South Africa the information may be turned to practical account.’ Translation of extract from letter to the author by M. ALEXANDRE SuRELL, Ingenicur des Ponts et Chausses, chairman of the Compagnie des Chemins des Fer du Midi et du Canal lateral & la Garonne, and author of Etude sur les Torrents des Hautes-Alps, Ouvrage Couronne par l Academie des Sciences en 1842 :—‘ You are rendering an eminent service to society in calling the attention of serious thinkers to the subject of réboisements and gazonnements. It is a vital question affecting our descendants, specially in southern climates, there are useful truths which have to be diffused there, and you have fulfilled this duty amongst your country- men. ‘In France public opinion, !ong indifferent, is now sufficiently en- lightened on the question, and much has been done. ‘I have been able to establish in the course of a recent journey that, throughout a great part of Switzerland, in Styria, in Carinthia, and in the Tyrol, the same phenomena which have issued in the desola- tion of our French Alps are beginning to produce the same effects. There have been recognised a number of extinct torrents which had originated in the destruction of the forests. If people go on sleeping, and the administration or the communes do nothing to arrest the evil posterity will have a sad inheritance devolved upon it. . ‘You have given, with very great clearness, a résumé of what I have done in France, be it by my works, or be it by my workings, for the re- generation of our mountains.’ ‘Translation of extract from letter by the late M. Ernest Cézanne, Jn- genieur des Ponts et Chausses, Représentant des Hautes Alpes al’ Assemblée Nationale, and author of Une Suite to the work of M. Surell. ‘The post brought to me yesterday your very interesting volume on Réboise- ment. Lat once betook myself to the perusal of it; and Iam surprised that a foreigner could digest so completely such a collection of our French ducuments drawn from so many diverse sources, The problem 11 of réboisement and the regeneration of the mountains is one of the most in-' teresting which man has to solve, but it requires time and money, and with the authorities and political assemblies, technical knowledge which is as yet but very sparingly possessed. It is by books so substantial as yours, sir, that public opinion can be prepared to face the importance: of this great work.’ IX.—Hydrology of South Africa; or Details of the Former Hydrographic Condition of Cape of Good Hope, and of Causes of its Present Aridity, with Suggestions of Appropriate Remedies for this Aridity. Price 10s. In this the desiccation of South Africa, from pre-Adamic times to the present day, is traced by indications supplied by geological formations, by the physical geography or the general contour of the country, and by arborescent pro-' ductions in the interior, with results confirmatory of the opinion that the appropriate remedies are irrigation, arboriculture, and an improved forest economy: or the erection of dams to prevent the escape of a portion of the rainfall to the sea—the abandonment or restriction of the burning of the herbage and bush in connection with pastoral and agricultural operations—the conservation and extension of existing forests—and the adoption of measures similar to the rébotsement and gazonnement carried out in France, with a view to prevent the formation of torrents, and the destruction of property occasioned by them. M. Jules Clavé, of world-wide reputation as a student of Forest Science, wrote in the Revue des Deux Mondes of Ist May 1882 :— nslated.] ‘Since the first travels of Livingstone, the African ae ee inacessible, has been attacked on all points at once. By the north, and by the south, by the east, and by the west, hardy explorers have penetrated it, traversed it, and have dragged from it some of its secrets. ‘Travellers have paid tribute and done their work in opening up a path; it is now for science and civilisation to do theirs, in studying the problems which present themselves for investigation ;, and in drawing ia the current of general circulations the peoples and lands, which appear as if destined to stand outside; and in causing ta 12 contribute to the increase of social wealth the elements of production previously unknown. Thus are we led to receive with interest works which can throw a new light on the condition of regions which may have been known for a long time, and which make known the conditions oftheir prosperity. It is under this title that the work of the Rev. J. C. Brown on the Hydrology of South Africa appears deserving of notice ; but it is so also from other points of view. Mr Brown, after a previous residence in the colony of the Cape, whither he had been sent in 1844 as a missionary and head of a religious congregation, returned thither in 1863 as Professor of Botany in the College of South Africa, and he remained there some years. In both of these positions he had occasion to travel through the colony in all directions, and had opportunities to col- lect most valuable information in regard to its physical geography. Mr Brown on going out to the Cape knew nothing of the works which had for their object to determine the influence of forests on the climate, on the quantity of rain, and on the river-courses in Europe ; he had never heard mention of the work of M. Surell on the torrents of the Alps, or of that of M. Mathieu on forest meteorology, nor of those of M. Domontzey, Costa de Bastelica, and so mauy others on the subject of réboisement ; and yet in studying by himself, and without bias, the climatic condition of South Africa, he came to perceive that the dis- turbances in the regularity of the flow of rivers within the historic period should be attributed in « large measure to the destruction of forests ; and he meets in agreement on this point the savants whose names have been mentioned. We have thought it might not be with- out interest to readers of the Revue to have in the lines of Mr Brown a collection of phenomena which, in their manifestation at any speci- fied point are not less due to general causes, the effects of which may be to make themselves felt everywhere where there may be existent the same conditions than to aught else.’ And there follows a lengthened article in illustration. X.—Water Supply of South Africa, and Facilities for the Storage of it. Price 18s 6d. In this volume are detailed meteorological observations on the humidity of the air and the rainfall, on clouds, and winds, and thunder-storms; sources from which is derived the supply of moisture which is at present available for agricultural operations in the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope and regions beyond, embracing the atmosphere, the rainfall, rivers, fountains, subterranean streams and reser- voirs, and the sea; and the supply of water and facilities for the storage of it in each of the divisions of the colony 13 —in Basutoland, in the Orange River Free State, in Griqualand West, in the Transvaal Territory, in Zululand, at Natal, and in the Transkei Territory. Exrract From Prerace.—‘ Appended to the Report of the Colonial Botanist at the Cape of Good Hope for 1866 was an abstract of a Memoir prepared on the Hydrology of South Africa, which has since been embodied in a volume which has been published on that subject, and an abstract of « Memoir prepared on Irrigation and its application to agricultural operations in South Africa, which em)raced a Report on the Water Supply of the Colony ; its sources, its quantity, the modes of irrigation required in different circumstances, the facilities for the adop- tion of these in different districts, and the difficulties, physical and other, in the way of works of extensive irrigation being carried out there, and the means of accomplishing these which are at command. ‘In the following volume is embodied that portion of the Memoir which related to the water supply, and the existing facilities for the storage of this, with reports relative to this which were subsequently received, and similar information in regard to lands beyond the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope, which it has been sought to connect with the Colony by federation, or otherwise ; and the information relative to irrigation has been transferred to a Report on the Rivers of the Colony, and the means of controlling floods, of preventing inundations, of regulating the flow of rivers, and utilising the water by irrigation otherwise. ‘In the series of volumes to which this belongs its place is immedi- ately after that on the Hydrology of South Africa, which contains details of the former hydrographic condition of the Cape of Good Hope, and of causes of its present aridity, with suggestions of appropriate remedies for this aridity ; and it has been prepared to show that, not in a vague and general use of the terms, but in strict accordance with the statement, the severe, protracted, and extensive droughts, and destructive floods and, inundations, recorded in the former volume, find their counterpart in constantly alternating droughts and deluges in every district of the Colony,—and that, in every so-called division of it, notwithstanding the deluges, there were protracted sufferings from drought, and, notwithstanding the aridity, there is a supply of water at command, with existing facilities for the storage of the superabundant supply which at present proves productive of more evil than good.’ Statement by Reviewer in Huropean M ail :—* Dr Brown is well known at the Cape, for in the exercise of his duties he travelled over the prin- cipal part of it, and much, if not indeed the substance, of the bulky volume before us, has heen before the Cape public in the form of Reports to the local Government. As these reports have been commented upon over and over again by the local press there is little left for us to say beyond the fact that the author reiterates his opinion that the only panacea for the drought is to erect dams and other irrigation works for the storage of water when the rains come down. There can be no doubt 14 that this is sage and wholesome advice, and the only question is, who is to sustain the expense? Not long ago, sonewhere about the time that Dr Brown was prosecuting his labours, it will be remembered that General Wynard said that ‘‘ Nature had furnished the cups if only science would take the trouble to make them secure.” It is but to repeat an oft-told story that with a good supply of water South Africa would be une of the finest of nature’s gardens, and would be capable of producing two crops a year, in addition to furnishing fodder for sheep and cattle. The question of the water supply for irrigation and other pros has been staved off year after year, and nothing has been done. t is not too much to say, however, that the question must make itself felt, as it is one of the chief factors ia the ultimate prosperity of South Africa. The author is evidently ia love with his subject, and has con- tributed a mass of facts to Hydrology which will be useful to all coun- tries of an arid character.’ XI.—Forests and Moisture; or Hffects of Forests on Humidity of Climate. Price 10s. In this are given details of phenomena of vegetation on which the meteorological effects of forests affecting the humidity of climate depend—of the effects of forests on the humidity of the atmosphere, and on the humidity of the ground, on marshes, on the moisture of a wide expanse of country, on the local rainfall, and on rivers—and of the correspondence between the distribution of the rainfall and of forests—the measure of correspondence between the distribution of the rainfall and that of forests—the distri- bution of the rainfall dependent on geographical position, or determined by the contour of a country—the distribution of forests affected by the distribution of the rainfall—and the local effects of forests on the distribution of the rain- fall within the forest district. Exrracts From Prerace.—‘ This volume is: one of a series. In the first of the series—a volume entitled—published last year, Hydrology of South Africa ; or, Details of the Former Hydrographic Condition of the Cape of Good Hope and of Causes of its recent Aridity, with Sugges- tions of appropriate Remedies for this Aridity, ‘This volume, on the effects of forests on the humidity of the atmos- phere and the ground, follows supplying illustrations of the reasonable- ness of the suggestion made in regard to the conservation and extension of forests as a subordinate means of arresting and counteracting the deséccation and aridity of the country.’ 15 Exrracrs rrom Lerrers to the author from the late Hon. George P. Marsh, Minister of the United states at Rome, and author of The Earth as Modified by Human Action :—‘1 am extremely obliged to you for a copy of your Réboisement in France, just received by post. I hope the work may have a wide circulation. . . . Few things are more needed in the economy of our time than the judicious administration of the forest, and your very valuable writings cannot fail to excite a powerfal influence in the right direction. eee ‘I have received your interesting letter of the 5th inst., with the valuable MSS. which accompanied it. I will make excerpts from the latter, and return it to you soon. I hope the very important facts you mention concerning the effect of plantations on the island of Ascension will be duly verified. - . . ‘I put very little faith in old meteorological observations, and, for that matter, not much in new. So much depends on local circumstances, on the position of instruments, &¢.—on station, in short, that it is only on the principle of the tendency of some to balance each other that we can trust to the registers of observers not known to be trained to scientific accuracy. Even in observatories of repute, meteoro- logical instruments are seldom properly hung and guarded from dis- turbing causes. Beyond all, the observations on the absorption of heat and vapour at small distances from the ground show that thermometers are almost always hung too high to be of any value as indicating the temperature of the stratum of the atmosphere in which men live and plants grow, and in most tables, particularly old ones, we have no information as to whether the thermometer was hung five feet or fifty feet from the ground, or whether it was in any way protected from heat radiated from near objects.’ © Extract Lertsr from the late Professor Henry, of the Smithsonian Institution, Washington :—‘ The subject of Forest Culture and its in- fluence on rainfall is, just at this time, attracting much attention in the United States. At the last meeting of the American Association for the advancement of science a committee was appointed to memorialise Con- gress with reference to it. Several of the Western States Governments have enacted laws and offered premiums in regard toit. The United States Agricultural Department has collected statistics bearing on the question, and we have referred your letter to that establishment. ‘The only contribution that the Smithsonian Institution has made to the subject is that of a series of rain-fall tables, comprising all the obser- vations that have been made in regard to the rainfail in the United States since the settlement of the country ; a copy of this we have sent to your address. “Tt may be proper to state that we have commenced a new epoch, and have, since the publication of the tables in question, distributed several hundred rain gauges in addition to those previously used, and to those which have been provided by the Government ia connection with the signal service.’ cscs ; These notices and remarks are cited as indicative of the importance which is being attached to the subject discussed. 16 _ Exrract rrom Lerrer to the author from Lieut.-Col. J. Campbell Walker, Conservator of Forests, Madras, then Conservator-in-Chief of Forests, New Zealand; author of Report on State Forests and Forest Management in Germany and Austria :—‘TI am in receipt of yours, along with the notices of your works on Forestry, by book post. I think very highly of the scope of the works, and feel sure that they oe similar works will supply a want much felt by the Indian forest officers. : ‘It contains many important data which I should have vainly sought elsewhere, and it will be regarded by all competent judges as a real substantial contribution to a knowledge of the existing surface, and the changes which, from known or unknown causes, that surface is fast undergoing.’ Copies of any of these Works will be sent post-paid to any address within direct Postal communication with Britain, on receipt by Dr Joun C. Brown, Haddington, of a Post-Office Order for the price. FORESTS AND FORESTRY oF NORTHERN RUSSIA AND LANDS BEYOND. COMPILED BY JOHN CROUMBIE BROWN, LL.D., Formerly Lecturer on Botany in University and King’s College, Aberdeen ; subsequently Colonial Botanist at Cape of Good Hope, and Professor of Botany in the South African College, Capetown ; Fellow of the Linnean Society ; Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society ; and ‘Honorary Vice-President of the African Institute of Paris, EDINBURGH: OLIVER AND BOYD, TWEEDDALE COURT. LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO, Anpv WILLIAM RIDER & SON. MONTREAL: DAWSON BROTHERS. 18:84. ADVERTISEMENT. In the Spring of 1877 I published a Brochure entitled The Schools of Forestry in Europe: a Plea for the Creation of a School of Forestry in connection with the Arboretum in Edinburgh, in which, with details of the arrangements made for instruction in Forest Science in Schools of Forestry in Prussia, Saxony, Hanover, Hesse, Darmstadt, Wurtemburg, Bavaria, Austria, Poland, Russia, Finland, Sweden, France, Italy, and Spain, and details of arrangements existing in Edinburgh for instruction in most of the subjects included amongst preliminary studies, I submitted for consideration the opinion, ‘that with the acquisition of this Arboretum, and with the existing arrangements for study in the University of Edinburgh, and in the Watt Institution and School of Arts, there are required only facilities for the study of what is known on the Continent as Forest Science to enable these Institutions conjointly, or any one of them, with the help of the others, to take a place amongst the most completely equipped Schools of Forestry in Europe, and to undertake the training of foresters for the discharge of such duties as are now iv ADVERTISEMENT. required of them in India, in our Colonies, and at home,’ This month has seen an International Exhibition of forest products, and other objects of interest connected with forestry, opened in Edinburgh, ‘in the interests of forestry, and to promote a movement for the establishment of a School of Forestry in Scotland, as well as with a view of furthering and stimulating a greater improve- ment in the scientific management of woods in Scotland and the sister countries which has manifested itself during recent years.’ The following is one of a series of volumes published in support of this enterprise, with a view to introduce into English: forestal literature detailed information on some of the points on which information is: supplied to the students at Schools of Forestry on the Continent ; and to make better known the breadth of study which is embraced in what is known there as Forstwissenschaft, or Forest Science,. JOHN C. BROWN. HappInecrTon, 24th July, 1884. CONTENTS. PART I.—Forest Lanps. INTRODUCTION, - - - CHAPTER I.—The Neva, - - - Voyage from St. Petersburg to Schlusselburg. CHAPTER I].—Lake Ladoga, - z o s CHAPTER III.— The Svir, - : = CHAPTER IV.—Lake Onega, - > 2 Z CHAPTER V.— The Fails of Keewash, CHAPTER VI.—Forest Lands of Olonetz, - CHAPTER VII.—Forests of Archangel, - 3 e CuaprTer VIIL.—Lapland, and Land of the Samoides, CHAPTER IX.—Nova Zembla, and Lands beyond, - ao PART Il.—Forest EXPLoiraTION, CuHarpter I. —Sartage, 7 - c PAGE 11 16 22 27 36 49 59 73 85 “vi CONTENTS. PAGE Carter I].—Jardinage, - a Fs z x 89 Disastrous Consequences at Cape of Good Hope (p. 90), and Elsewhere (p. 95); Precautions adopted here (p. 96). CHaprTer III.—Views entertained in Rus sia in regard to different Methods of Exploitation, - - 101 CHaptTeR 1V.—Luport Timber Trade, - i - 109 Onega or English Timber Company (p. 109); Transport and Floatage (p. 112); Cutting up of Logs (p. 115) ; Other Companies (p. 117); Forest Code (p. 123), CHAPTER V.—Lxports by Archangel and the White Sea, 125 CHAPTER VI1.—Forest Industries, = . - 188 Srotion A. ~— Forest Huploitation and Clearing of Forest Lands, - ss - - - 1388 Section B.—Zar, Turpentine, and Vinegar Manu- facture, - ~ : 2 = 137 SEcTION C.—House Building and Carpentry, - 141 PART III.—Puysicat GroGRAPHY. Cuarter I,—Contour and General Appearance of the Country, - - - - - - 148 Rivers (p. 144); Lapland and its Temperature (p. 147). Cuapter II.—Jlora, “ e : . - 155 CONTENTS. SECTION 1.—Characteristic Vegetation, - : Successive Zones of Vegetation characteristic of Latitude and of Elevation above the Level of the Sea (p. 156) ; The Icy Region (p. 158); the Region of Moss (p, 158); the Region of Barley and Northern Agricul- ture (p. 159); Marine Vegetation within the Arctic Circle (p. 160); Vegetation on the Snow (p. 163); Terrestrial Vegetation of the Far North (p. 164); and of the Forest Zone (p. 174). Section II]. —Forests, - - : = = Forest Trees and Forest Products of the Government of Archangel (p. 176); and of Olonetz and Vologda (p. 187); Details of the Appearance and Contents of the Forest Estate of Vuig (p. 179), Section III.—Classijied List of Plants found in the vicinity of Lake Onega by Forst-Meister A. Guenther, - s - _ 2 Section IV.— Vegetation in Lapland, * SEcTION V.—Palacontological Botany, - = Views advanced by Dr Oswald Heer, and expounded and illustrated by Count Saporta, relative to Vegetation having originated in the Far North, and diffused itself Southwards. CuHapTer II].—Fauna, - és : 2 5 SEcTION I.—Quadrupeds, Section Il—Birds, - 2 a 2 > Suction IIL—Jnsects, - - - -— = tice of Insects injurious to Forest Trees in Northern a Tei by Forst-Meister Guenther (p. 245). Sus-Section A,—List of Coleoptera collected by Mr Guenther in the Government of Olonetz, arranged according to Catalogus Coleopterorum Huropae et Caucasi Auctoribus, L. V. Heyden, E, Reitler, et J. Weise (p. 248). PAGE 155 176 182 191 193 236 236 242 245 viii CONTENTS. Sus-Ssction B.—List of Lepidoptera collected by Mr . Guenther in the: Government of Olonetz, arranged according to Catalog der Lepidopteren des Huropae- aschen Tannengebietz, Von O. Standinger, u. M. Wocke (p. 264). ——9 AUTHORITIES CITED. Acerst, p. 157; The Arctic World, pp. 76, 160; BaLrour, p. 231; Blackwood’s Magazine, p. 73; Baron V. Bucu, p. 156; Burron, p. 199; Daa, p. 152; Herworrs Drxon, pp. 49, 69, 126; DuEDEN, p. 147; Edinburgh Encyclopaedia, pp. 83, 149; Fornss, p. 23835 Forests of Fin- land, pp. 13, 85 ; Frost and Fire, p, 32; GUENTHER, pp, 182, 245, 248, 264; GUILLEMARD, p. 60; Hayus, p. 167; HeEr, pp. 193, 204; HowiIson, p. 189; Hydrology of South Africa, p. 89; Journal of Forestry, p. 108 ; JUDRBAE, pp. 36, 44, 86, 96, 122, 133, 137, 176; LeonaRD, \p. 94; Lone- FELLOW, p. 18; LYELL, p. 224; Morpvinorr, p. 158 ; Nicotson, p. 13; NoRDENSKJOELD, pp, 198, 213; Pzars, p. 94; Pramiatnais Enjka, p- 43; Raz, p. 130; Russian Songs, p. 56; Saporta, pp. 195, 208, 209, &e. ; Scotsman, p. 233; Ustaff Laesnoi, p. 123; Lapy VERNAY, p. 95; WAHLENBERG, pp. 59, 62, 191; MackEnzre WALLACE, p. 155; WERE- KHA, pp. 101, 122, FOREST LANDS AND FORESTRY oF “ NORTHERN RUSSIA. 0 PART I. FOREST LANDS. INTRODUCTION. In the introduction to a companion volume on The Forest Lands and Forestry of Finland it is stated that ‘I spent the summer of 1879 in St. Petersburg, ministering in the British and American Chapel in that city, while the pastor sought relaxation for a few months at home. I was for years the minister of the congregation worshipping there ; and I had subsequently repeatedly spent the summer among them in similar circumstances. I was at the time studying the forestry of Europe; and I availed myself of opportunities afforded by my journey thither through Norway, Sweden, and Finland, by my stay in Russia, and by my return through Germany and France, to collect information bearing upon the enquiries in which I was engaged. On my return to Scotland I contributed to the Journal of Forestry a series of papers, which were after- wards reprinted and published under the title Glances at the Forests of Northern Europe. In the preface to this pamphlet I stated that in Denmark may be studied the remains of forests in prehistoric times; in Norway, luxu- riant forests managed by each proprietor as seemeth good in his own eyes; in Sweden, sustained systematic endea- B 2 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. vours to regulate the management of forests in accordance with the latest deliverances of modern science ; in Finland, Sartage disappearing before the most advanced forest economy; and in Russia, Jardinage in the north, merging into more scientific management in Central Russia, and reboisément in the south.’ The following pages may be considered a study of infor- mation I then collected, together with information which I previously possessed, or have subsequently obtained, in regard to the forestry of the Russian Governments of Olonetz, Vologda, and Archangel, through some of the forest lands of which I made a tour in the summer of 1882. CHAPTER I. THE NEVA. THE steamer plying between St. Petersburg and Lake Onega takes its departure from a quay nearly opposite to the Finnish Railway Terminus. Of the passage by water from the centre of the city to this, I have given an account in the companion volume, entitled Forests and Forestry in Finland. The drive by land from the centre of the city to the quay of the Onega steamer may be less striking, but it is not less interesting. Starting from Vassiliostroff, or from the English Quay, passing along this brings us upon the Isaac’s Plain, now the Alexandra Sadd. This was the scene of the military insurrection which occurred in Decem- ber 1825, on Nicolas I. succeeding to the throne. I write from memory of what was told to me fifty years ago oy men who had seen, and men who had acted in the conflict, and of what I then read of the trial and condemna- tion of leaders in the fight, and the visions which rise before me may be more vivid than absolutely correct, but they are my remembrances accurately given. The conspiracy had been progressing rapidly during the later years of Alexander I. His death, and the succession of the Grand Duke Constantine, intensified the desire of many to effect a change in the government of the Empire. By a family compact Constantine had ceded to his younger brother Nicolas all claim to the throne. There, as here,the Sovereign never dies. The oath of allegiance to Constantine had been taken when the death of Alexander was proclaimed ; and now the soldiery were required to take an oath of allegiance to Nicolas. The disaffected officers, assuming 4 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. an air of loyalty, said they could not unless personally released from their previous oath by the Grand Duke to whom they had sworn fealty. According to the accounts given to me, arrangements were made for a general insurrection of all the troops in the vicinity of St. Petersburg. The day was fixed for their concentrating on St. Petersburg; something occurred to disturb that arrangement, and to render expedient a short postponment of the insurrection ; but one regiment did not receive notice of this in proper time, and began their march; the others on hearing this were precipitately mustered and marched from their cazernes, and mustered in the Isaac’s Plain. The Emperor Nicolas, it is said, came out fuom his palace to the troops with his son, the late Emperor Alexander II., then a child, in his arms; and.addressing the soldiery in a dignified tone, he demanded of them: ‘ What is it you want? Is it to take my life, and the life of my son? If so, we are here; but what will taking our lives benefit you, or advance your purpose? What better will be your condition; No, no, my children, stand by your Tsar. The effect was, as might be imagined, electric; and en- thusiasm found expression in shouts of loyal attachment to the Tsar. But while some cried ‘Long live the Emperor,’ by others were raised the cry, Constantine e Constitutzio. . My informant happened to be on the Isaac’s Plain when one regiment entered from one direction, and another from another. From their bearing he concluded sumething un- usual was going on, though what it might be he could not imagine. Wishing to see what might be seen he took up his station along with others between pillars in the wall of the Senate House. When he saw what was occurring fain would he have got to his home; but this seemed impracticable ; at length a gun was so planted as to sweep the whole Galernoy—the street at his feet ; and then he made away with all speed and at all risk, glad enough to. get safely to his house. From him I learned not a THE NEVA. 5 little of what occurred before the bloodshed commenced, and the spot was indicated to me by him, where, standing between the two pillars of the Senate House, whence he was looking down upon the commotion, he saw an officer ride up to two or three soldiers, who were standing at his feet, and greatly excited, and cry to the men, ‘Call out Constantine e Constitutzio!’ The men hesitated, grounded their arms, and insisted to know who Constitutzio was. ‘Constantine’s wife, you blockheads,’ was the reply. ‘Ah Xoroshos! (all right), and forthwith the cry was raised, Constantine e Constitutzio / While these shouts were being raised a shot was heard, whether fired accidentally or of design was unknown, and Milardovitch, the Military Governor-General of the city, who was riding in front of the troops addressing to them soothing words, fell dead. He was a man universally beloved ; great confusion immediately ensued, and fighting began amongst those who had marched thither animated by acommon purpose. Soon regiment was firing upon regiment, which of them in the supposed interests of the Crown, which of them in the supposed prosecution of rebellion, it would have been difficult to say. Dreadful was the slaughter. At length one party remained masters of the field—either they were the loyal party, or if they were not, and there were none such in the fight, they found it convenient to proclaim themselves such; and order was re-established. It was in winter, the snow on the plain was everywhere red with blood; but during the night which followed, openings were made in the ice which covered the Neva, which flows past the place; and into these, it is said, the dead and the dying were thrown pro- miscuously. These the rapid-flowing river carried quickly away ; the snow was cleared off, and similarly disposed of; and by the following day peace was restored. I said to one of the officers of a so-called loyal regiment: ‘ Now, tell me, were you all perfectly loyal?’ ‘ As loyal as man is to God,’ was his reply, given with great solemnit ‘and assurance. I said, ‘That is not in accordance with 6 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. what I have heard from others.’ His rejoinder was: ‘Mark my reply ; I cannot say more, but, I repeat, As loyal as man is to God.” ‘Oh! ho! Universal depravity?’ He said nothing in reply, but his silence led me to say: ‘How came you then to fire upon those who were in the same plot?’ He shrugged his shoulders and replied, ‘We are in the army accustomed to implicit and immediate obedience. Our superior officers gave the orders to us ; and we in turn, faithful to our traditions, gave them to those who were under our command, et Voila!’ Through the scene of this outbreak, and slaughter, and treason, and treachery, lies the way from the English Quay to the point of embarking for Lake Onega. St. Isaac’s Plain is now laid out as a garden with public promenades, and there there is to be seen one manifestation of the reign of peace which, often as I have beheld it, always gives me pleasure. Here and there are laid down cart- loads of fine clean sand in the summer, in which children, whose parents cannot arrange to take them to the country, as do most who can, may work as they please —making dove- cots, digging pits, raising bulwarks, and trundling sand from one corner to another, as children delight to do; and in the early morning, before they are again astir, all is swept up again into a heap, where during the day they or others may resume their play. Within this garden stands the statue of Peter the Great, on its immense boulder support. At right angles to the Synod and Senate Houses stands St. Isaac’s Church, the dome of which dominates the city. Along the left-hand side of the garden are the Admiralty Buildings, with their golden spire, opposite to which diverge at equal angles the three lengthened Prospects which divide into sections a great extent of the city situated on the mainland,—one of them, the Nevsky Prospect, being one of the celebrated streets of Europe. Beyond the Admiralty Buildings is the Imperial residence, the Winter Palace, looking out upon the monolith erected to the memory of Alexander I., and on the THE NEVA. ¥ Glavno Stab. Beyond the palace, and connected with it, is the Hermitage, containing a valuable collection of articles pertaining to Peter the Great, the founder of the city, and an invaluable collection of paintings by ancient and modern artists, of coins, of cameos, and of other gems. A little way brings us upon the Champs de Mars, an exten- sive plain devoted to reviews of the troops, dominated by palaces, among others that erected by the Emperor Paul, and in which he met his death. In front are the Summer Gardens, studded with statuary. Leaving the Champs de Mars, we pass a statue of Kotussof, and passing in front of the Summer Gardens we pass a shrine for prayer, erected on the spot where was made the first attempt to assassinate the late Emperor Alexander II. Passing onwards between a noble quay or line of palatial residences and the river, and passing the entrance to a noble granite bridge spaning the Neva, and leading to the Finnish railway, and the country beyond, we reach at. length the quay from which the steamers for Lake Onega take their departure. The commencement of the voyage is through miles of urban scenes—houses, churches, manufactories, and wharfs ; but these past, the rural scenery is reached. Here the banks of the Neva present aspects differing greatly from those of the Saima Canal in Finland: there the banks are wooded to the water’s edge, approximating and receding, and branching off into numerous lakelets, and presenting in front ofttimes a wooded barrier against advance, which, however, is found practicable bysome narrow outlet in a concealed corner ; here there is a broad expanse of river, winding indeed, but never so as to conceal what is ahead. Both banks of the Neva, from St. Petersburg upward, for a considerable distance, are crowded with timber yards and manufactories of different kinds, and not until Alexandrof, eight or nine miles distant by road, has been left a considerable way behind is it otherwise. Beyond this the banks are studded with villages, with ‘datches’ or villas, and with churches admirably located 8 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. for effect, occupying prominent positions in the landscapes seen from a considerable distance as they are approached by the river. There is not a lack of trees ; but these do not constitute a characteristic feature of the scenery. On the north bank of the river, the land a mile or more in breadth, has been sold or ceded to private parties, Russian communes, German colonies, and Finnish villagers, but beyond this is a forest, belonging the Imperial Domains, 160 square versts in extent, preserved for the chase, where bears, wolves, elks, blackcock, capercailzie, and ptarmigan constitute the principal game. While this forest on the right bank, commencing a little distance from the river, but not seen from it in general, has been preserved, and may be said to extend almost continuously from the Finnish frontier to the Ural Mountains and Siberia, with what was once a forest, I may say, in continuation of this on the opposite bank of the Neva, it is otherwise. Along the left bank of the Neva, which at no distant period was richly wooded, the woods have been extensively destroyed, sometimes by forest fires, sometimes otherwise. The agricultural operations adopted on both banks have in many cases, perhaps in most, been the following; The ground has been cleared of the stumps and roots, which, after being piled and thus dried, have been used as fire- wood ; the ground then roughly ploughed, and, though all hillocks and hollows, has been sown with oats or rye, generally the former, and a remunerative crop, though not abundant, has been obtained. The stubble has then been ploughed in, and the ground in steep furrows exposed to the influence of the weather. In early spring it has been again ploughed, harrowed, and levelled; and potatoes, planted with appropriate manure. For two. or three years there- after oats, barley, or rye, are grown, but the rye, not being suitable for malting, can only be used in the manufacture of pearl barley, for which there is no great demand; with the last crop, the field is laid down in Timothy grass and THE NEVA. 9 wild clover, and for some years hay crops are taken. The red clover gradually gives place to white clover, which grows abundantly where woods have been burnt, and the Timothy grass gives place to some extent to other grasses less nutritive to horses and cattle, but which still yield a valuable hay. After a time the same routine is repeated. : On some farms the ground is divided into four, five, or six sections, each of which in succession is planted with potatoes, with appropriate manure, or sown with grain. Winter-sown rye yields a beautiful crop, but the risks from early frost are so great as to frighten many from adopting this method of culture. When the winter-grown rye makes what is deemed too great progress, it is eaten down with cattle or mown, by which operations the number of stoles is probably increased. If in spring the crop threatens to fail, it is generally ploughed up, and the ground left in fallow. Though damage is done to the hay by rain, a copious rainfall immediately before cutting the grass is hailed with delight as greatly facilitating the work of the mower. The mowing is generally done during the night, through- out which there is abundant light in July in this region. The cut grass is turned and tossed by women the following day, and by nightfall or next morning it is fit for stocking in hay-cocks. The German colonists give more special attention to the growth of potatoes, and only introduce the other cultures in so far as this can be subordinated to the successful growth of the potato. Four hours’ steaming brings the traveller from St. Petersburg to Schlusselburg, the fortress of that name being situated on an island in the river, the town on the shores of Lake Ladoga, from which the river takes its rise. The Neva has a course of about 40 miles, the medium breadth of its main stream is about 1500 feet, and the depths of its mid channel, near St. Petersburg, is about 50 feet. 10 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. The population of Schlusselburg numbers about 3,500. The island on which the fort is built is between 300 and 400 yards long. The walls of the fort are about 50 feet high, of great thickness, and fortified in the old fashion, with turrets and battlements. The passage to and from the mainland is by a drawbridge. So early as 1324, George, Prince of Moscow and Novogorod, built a fort here while on an expedition against Wyborg, which was taken by the Lithuanians, who in turn were driven out by Magnus, King of Sweden, a.D. 1347, but it was retaken by the Novogorodians in 1352. It was ultimately, in 1702, occupied by Peter the Great, but till that time it was a subject of frequent contention between Russia and Sweden. Since then the fortress has often served as a State prison; here one Emperor at least, John VI., met his death, and here the first wife of Peter the Great was confined after being divorced. CHAPTER II. LAKE LADOGA. Lake Lapoca is the terminal reservoir of the waters drained off from Finland by the Saima See and the Falls of Imatra, and the reservoir of waters drained off by other water-courses and water systems in the north, and the east, and the south, where all these waters are collected, to be thence discharged by the Neva, and conveyed by it to the Gulf of Finland and the Baltic, and thence by the Katigat and the Skagar Rack into the German Ocean and the Atlantic beyond. Lake Ladoga is the largest lake in Europe: its length from north to south is 138 miles, and its greatest breadth 90 miles, the area of the lake is 6,800 square miles. It contains several islands, and numerous rocks and sand- banks, which render the navigation of it dangerous. It is fed by about sixty tributary streams, the principal of which are the Volkhov and Siasi on the south, and the Svir, which connects it with Lake Onega in the Govern- ment of Olonetz. The dangerous character of the lake, ‘and the frequency and violence of its storms, induced Peter the Great to begin the formation of a canal from Schlusselburg to Novaia Ladoga, on the Volkhov, which was completed in 1732. Additional canals to extend the means of communication were dug under the direction of Catherine II. The Ladoga Canal, 70 miles in length, and 74 feet in breadth, forms with the Siasi and Svir canals, a continuous line round the south and south-east sides of the lake. : - 12 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. The name Novaia Ladoga, or New Ladoga, was given to the town mentioned, a town of 3,000 inhabitants, in con- tradistinction to Staraia Ladoga, or Old Ladoga, formerly a large place, noted in Russian annals as the earliest resi- dence of Ruric, first sovereign of Russia. The ruins of its ancient walls are still seen; but since the erection of Novaia Ladoga, it has become almost depopulated, and the number of its houses does not exceed fifty. Steamers ply daily during summer between St. Petersburg and Novaia Ladoga, leaving Schlusselburg at 2.30 P.M., and arriving at Novaia Ladoga at 1 AM., and thence there is water con- nection with the Volga and the network of inland naviga- tion. The creation of this canal, skirting the southern extremity of Lake Ladoga, was one of the last enterprises of Peter the Great. In 1718 he formed the plan of the canal and its sluices. He relied much on canals as a means of extend- ing the inland navigation of his country ; and when canals were to be dug with this view, sometimes on marshy and almost impassable grounds, he was frequently seen at the head of his workmen, digging the earth, and carrying it away himself. The purpose he had in view in the formation of this canal was to establish a communication between the Neva and another navigable river for the more easy conveyance of merchandise to Petersburg, without making the circuit of the coast of the lake, which, from the storms which prevailed on the coast, was frequently impassable for barks or small vessels, and still is, even for steamers, as I have experienced in crossing it. The Emperor levelled the ground himself, and the tools and implements used by him in digging up and carrying off the earth have been carefully preserved. His courtiers followed his example, and persistently prosecuted the work, which at the same time they looked upon as part of an impracticable under- taking. Jt was not finished till after his death; but at length it was completed. “= LAKE LADOGA. 18 The object was to draw produce to St. Petersburg for exportation ; and in extension of the project of the Ladoga Canal he, in the same year, or shortly thereafter, made another canal by which the Caspian became connected by navigable water channels with the Gulf of Finland and the Ocean ; and boats sailing up the Volga, traversing a canal connecting this river with another, proceeding so far by this and by another canal to the lake of Ilmen, could thence by the Ladoga Canal reach the Neva, whence goods and merchandise might be conveyed by sea to all parts of the world. Lake Ilmen, in the Government of Novogorod, inter- secting a town of the same name, is connected with Lake Ladoga by the Volkhoff. The length of the course of this river is about 150 miles. It is deep and rapid, but except when its waters are low, when it forms cascades, it is navigable. It is connected by canal with the Siasi; which flows through the Government of St. Petersburg in a N.N.W. direction, throughout a course of about 100 miles. Schlusselburg forms thus a port of departure whence the traveller may proceed by water to the south, to the east, to the north, or to the west. By the canal the traveller may proceed by water to Odessa, the Black Sea, Constan- tinople, the Mediterranean, and thence whithersoever he will, the wide world over. By leaving the Volga, a little beyond Kazan, and ascending the Kama to Perm, a railway journey of 312 miles will bring him to Ekaterine- burg, in Siberia, which is in like manner possessed of wonderful facilities for inland navigation. In a sketch of the Hydrography of Finland, in a volume entitled The Forest Lands of Finland, I have narrated the experience of my friend, the Rev. W. Nicolson, agent of the British and Foreign Bible Society, in descending the Ulea River to the Gulf of Bothnia, whence he found his way by coasting steamers to St. Petersburg. It was by this route that he had entered Finland... Embarking. at 14 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. St. Petersburg, and ascending the Neva at Schlusselburg, he entered on Lake Ladoga, and visited Konevits, Hexholm, and Walamo: the first and the last of which are holy islands, visited by hosts of pilgrims by which the steamer was crowded, most being deck passengers. Many of these were very sick, and strewn on the deck, it seemed as if in many places they were lying three deep. A day or half a day spent by the steamer at each place gave an opportunity to such as chose to fulfil there the object of their pilgrimage, and proceed with the steamer to the next; but if they preferred to do so, they could remain, and proceed by the following steamer. At one of the islands, which is covered with forest, no tree may be felled, no animal slaughtered. Other restrictions similar in character, but different in kind it may be, are in force at other holy places subject to the Greek Church of Russia; and yet Well, at Konevits, a somewhat lugubrious- looking priest took up his position by the side of the vessel, and never left it while the vessel was in port. My friend asked the captain what was the purpose of his there keeping watch and ward, and he was informed that the priest was stationed there by ecclesiastical authority to watch, and afterwards to testify, that no one of the monks had obtained brandy on board or from on board the steamer: a precaution which may be commendable; but one which may naturally suggest a gibe at the expense of the character of the consecrated men ; and allegations to their prejudice in regard to sensual immoralities are advanced in support of the gibe. He entered Finland by Hexholm, a little town beautifully situated on the western shore of the lake—a town of which frequent mention is made in the old historical annals of Finland. On the shores of Lake Ladoga, with its forest- crowned hills and lovely vaileys, one may feel as if trans- ported to some one of the most lovely regions of the South. My route took me across Lake Ladoga in an easterly direction to the mouth of the Svir, by which are conveyed LAKE LADOGA. 15 to this gigantic reservoir the waters of Lake Onega, which is in its turn largely fed by the upper waters in the moun- tain range which constitutes the boundary between Russia and the north-eastern lains of Finland. CHAPTER III. THE SVIR. THE aspect of the shores of the Neva, seen from the river, differs not more from that of the Saima Canal than does the appearance of Lake Ladoga differ from that of the Saima See, the latter studded with islands, or branching out in innumerable lakelets—thus one broad expanse of waters like to Lake Ontario, and some of the other lakes of North America, presenting nothing to view within the horizon but water, water, water, generally smooth, but liable like these to be tossed into billows, when lashed by a storm. ; But near the mouth of the Svir wooded islands again appear, and ere the voyager is aware, he has passed from creeks between islands into the continuous flow of the river, which, in consequence of its rapid descent, has a current of considerable force. The surface of the river throughout lengthened stretches present appearances characteristic of rapids—now that of the surface of molten lead, now that of a shallower stream passing over a rocky bed, and at times the steamer quivers as it stems the torrent. The banks are covered with trees, but most of them comparatively young. Floating rafts of timber, barges laden with deals, piles of firewood a fathom in height, stretching in some cases as at Vajnee for versts along the shore, tell of what has occasioned this. All the older trees have been felled, and these are the reproduced forests in a condition which may be compared to that of youth and early manhood. Four hours or four and a half hours brings the steamer across the lower end of the lake, from Schlusselburg to THE SVIR. 17 Sermaksi on the Svir, where are large stores for produce and a meteorological observatory. Some two hours or more brings it to Ladonoi Pole, founded by Peter the Great, and formerly a naval dockyard. Here there are still extensive bakeries, to which flour is brought from great distances, and whence are shipped great quantities of eringles, a kind of Russian or Swedish biscuit, made in the form of a long roll, the tapering ends of which are twisted together so as to form a ring with an expansion in the middle. Great quantities of cray fish are caught in the neighbourhood, and offered for sale by peasants crowd- ing the landing stages where the steamer touches. It is situated at what appears to be the confluence of two rivers. Ladonoi Pole (the field of Lodi) is a place of some interest, being the spot where Peter the Great built his first galleys in 1702. He superintended their building in person, and subsequently employed them in taking the fortress of Schlusselburg from the Swedes. A monument in cast iron marks the site of a house in which Peter resided. In four hours or more is reached Vajnee, where appar- ently the rafts of timber are made up. This is brought hither in floats made in three tiers of twenty logs each, bound firmly tegether. Here ten such are connected in a long line, two oar-like helms or helm-like steering oars are attached to each end of the long raft, and either end may become stem or stern, or alternately the one or other. Ten or twelve women, with one man amongst them to direct their movements, ply those on the foremost float, so as to keep the whole in the current, or to move it out of the way of steamers advancing in au opposite direction, and one or two men do the like with those in the stern. The women whom I saw thus employed were cleanly dressed, and looked healthy and strong, neither coarse- featured nor inelegant in form. Throughout the whole region women are extensively employed in rowing the boats plying on the river, and also in piling firewood. C 18+ THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. Such work is preferred to domestic service, and is more highly remunerated, and I found complaints rife of diffi- culty experienced in procuring domestic servants, especi- ally during the summer months, the wages paid being two roubles, or 4s a month ! There were many villages besides those I have men- tioned, and the whole country presented the appearance of an older settled district than those of Finland through which I had passed. There was much more land under pasturage and agriculture. Contrary to what is seen in some parts of Russia, al] the houses and outbuildings stood erect and in good order. One striking feature was the clean, newly-painted appearance of all the churches. Here, as elsewhere, there are little erections containing. pictures of the saints, before which the passing traveller may offer his prayers. Some of these were ruinous, though » with most it was otherwise, and, with the churches, all were beautifully clean, leaving no occasion for another Longfellow to tell of what the Devil saw in Church.* The people, with a slight admixture of Russians from the south, seemed generally to be of the Thutchi tribe, and those further to the north to be Karells. * What a darksome and dismal place ! I wonder that any man has the face To call such a hole the house of the Lord, And the gate of Heaven—yet such is the word. Ceiling, and walls, and windows old, Coverer’d with cobwebs, blacken’d with mould; , Dust on the pulpit, dust on the stairs, Dust on the benches, and stalls, and chairs, The pulpit, from which such ponderous sermons Have fallen down on the brains of the Germans, With about as much real edification As if a great Bible, bound in lead, Had fallen, and struck them on the head ; And I ought to remember that sensation ! Here stands the holy water stoup ! Holy water it may be to many, But to me the veriest Liquor Gehennae ! It smells like a filthy fast-day soup ! Near it stands the box for the poor, With its iron padlock, safe and sure. T and the priest of the parish know Whither all these charitics yo ; Therefore, to keep up the institution, J will add my little contribution ! (He puts in money.) THE SVIR. 19 The flow of the Svir is W.S.W. Its course is about 150 miles. Its principal atiuents are the Ivina and Vagena, flowing into it on the right bank, and the Oiat and Pacha on the left, The Ivina rises some 25 miles 8.S.W. of Petrozavodsk, the capital of the Government of Olonetz,and has a course of about 60 miles. The Oiat rises in the same Govern- ment, and flowing westward enters the Svir after a course of 92 miles. The Pacha rises near Ledia, in the Govern- ment of Novogorod, and flowing first west,and then north, joins the Svir after a course of 150 miles. Its principal affluent is the Kapcha. The Canal of Siasko connects the Svir with the Polkhov, and thus forms a means of communication between St. Petersburg and the surrounding provinces. Russians express their delight in heat in a proverbial saying that ‘Heat breaks no bones! and in sweltering weather officers and others in like position are to be seen on the streets of St. Petersburg in wadded cloaks and overcoats, and peasants in sheepskin shoubs; but it is not without cause, for changes in temperature are great and sudden. Spaniards have a proverbial saying that ‘The zephyr which will not extinguish a candle may blow out a man’s life’ and another to the effect, ‘Sit in a draught and send at once for a lawyer and a priest, to make your will and receive your dying confession.’ A similar opinion seems to prevail in Russia, and of this I had an illustration in the course of my voyage. I was on the upper or steer- ing deck ; the steerage passengers covered their deck, sleep- ing in all attitudes and places, and the cabin passengers were seated or walking about on theirs, when all at once, like a picture of the resurrection from the dead, the steer- age passengers started to their feet, and men and women alike were in movement, like the sea in a storm, putting on their shoubs, and the cabin passengers in continuous lines were making for the cabin doors as if at the sum- mons of a church bell, I was about to ask the occasion, 20 THE FOREST LANDS Of NORTHERN RUSSIA. when I became aware that the wind had suddenly veered round to the north-east, and was blowing somewhat strongly. This was the occasion of the sudden movement ! In making arrangements for another journey, I asked a friend, who had travelled extensively in the region I was purposing to visit, what provision of clothing for the journey I should make? He said, ‘Go where you may in Russia, always provide for four different temperatures, otherwise you are not safe” ‘It was said playfully; but on this trip one day we had the temperature of 92° Fahr,, next day that of 67°, and the day following 42°. Calling the attention of one of my fellow travellers to this, he said that in Archangel, where he resided, one day they had a temperature of upwards of 90° Fahr., and in the course of a few hours it was frost! One day while on this trip I felt the heat extreme, but within twenty-four hours the cold was such that I could not sleep at night though wearing my under flannels, and covered with a pile of coverlets. I met also on this trip with an incident illustrative of the feelings with which my countrymen are regarded by the Russians. In Russia fellow travellers freely enter into conversation with one another. There are sufficient indications of their position in society tu prevent unplea- santness; and brotherly kindness is one of the traits of character seen alike in prince and peasant. There was on board the steamer a gentleman, an official in the Forest Service, between whom and myself there sprung up con- siderable intimacy and freedom of conversational inter- course, from our both being interested in forestry and in several allied matters. On the second or third day he said to me, laughingly : ‘I must tell you this: When I came on board, the captain said to me, “There is an English tourist on board; he will be ignorant of our language; he is going to the Government of Olonetz; and as you also are going there, I wish you would give to him any assistance he may need in travelling.” I at once said, “No; he is an Englishman. I know not but any THE SVIR. 5} advance made by me may bring upon me an insult, the English are so supercilious. I will have nothing to do with him.” I find that you are the tourist ; I find nothing supercilious about you. How is this?’ I replied, also laughingly, ‘I am not an Englishman. ‘ You are not an Englishman? I thought you were.” ‘Oh, no.” ‘Then what countryman are you? ‘I am a Scotsman.” ‘Ah, he exclaimed, ‘that explains all;’ and with fervour he embraced me, giving me, as is the national custom, three kisses—the first on one cheek, the second on the other, and the third on the first again. I told some friends in St. Petersburg of the incident, when my story was capped, with other like incidents experienced by others; and it was mentioned by one whose experience had been given, that gentlemen in Russia fully recognise the difference between Scotchmen and Englishmen, They say the average Englishman is a Jingo, pooh-poohs anything you may say, and will not hear you complete a sentence you may have begun; the average Scotchman is intelligent ; he is not afraid to hear what you have got to say ; he may differ from you, but he will allow you at least to express your views, and he will judge dis- passionately of what you say. Ihave found the difference between Scotchmen and Englishmen recognised the wide world over, and generally with a preference for my countrymen. To many foreigners the supercilious bearing of Englishmen is offensive; and of English-speaking people the only thing more so is that of a discourteous American citizen travelling au prince. CHAPTER IV. LAKE ONEGA. Art the issue of the Svir from Lake Onega is Vosnisenya, one of the principal centres of inland navigation by a widely extended system of canals, of which there are three ‘connecting the Baltic and North Sea with the Volga and the Caspian. One of these commences here, where are collected barges and vessels from all parts of Russia, including-an extensive region of Siberia. In this respect it resembles the town and port of Schlusselburg on Lake Ladoga, it being the fort from which that town takes its same, and not the town itself, which is situated on an ‘island in the river. In the month of June last (1883) were formally opened -at Serumaxa on the Svir two new canals, connected with the rivers Svir and Siass, the formal opening taking place in the presence of the Emperor and Empress, who were accompanied by several Ministers. The Svir Canal has ‘been named after the Emperor, and the Siass Canal after the Empress. Both canals are 8 feet deep, and will allow of the passage of large vessels, thus rendering possible the transport of goods to the harbours of St. Petersburg in ten days less time than hitherto. Vosnisenya is called by the inhabitants The St. Peters- burg Gate. I received much kind courtesy here, and I am indebted for much information and assistance in my en- quires to Forst-Meister Dltitofsky. Here I had an opportu- nity of penetrating a little way into the forests, along with Forst-Meister Herman Goebel, from whom I received much information in regard to forestry in Russia, and more especially in regard to planting operations on LAKE ONEGA. oe) the steppes in the vicinity of Odessa, The trees which I saw were chiefly the pine (pinus sylvestris), and the fir (abies excelsor); but from another forest official, from whom also I derived much valuable information, I learned that in the forests beyond there were also to be found the Norwegian maple, the lime, the elm, the juniper, and other kinds of trees, the juniper attaining to an arborescent .81ze, very different from the juniper bush of Britain. Finding it difficult to thread our way through the close growing trees, I asked how a forester found his way when lost in the wood. The reply was, ‘The conifere are on the north side of the trunk more or less densely covered with lichens, and thus we know in what direction to go,’ Lake Onega may be considered a basin of the Vodla, the principal river flowing into it, while the outlet is by the Svir. Its water is clear, and abounds in fish. The bases of the islands, of which it contains several, are lime- stone. It is by the Vodla and Mariienskai water-course that it is connected with the Volga, while by the Svir it -is connected with Lake Ladoga, the Neva, and the Baltic, into which river flows also the Oiat, which rises in the Government of Olonetz, and, entering that of St. Peters- burg, it joins the Svir on the left bank, after a course of 92 miles. The Vodla flows from a lake bearing the same name, 26 miles long from north to south, and 14 miles in breadth, to the N.N.E. of Pudoj, or Pudoscha, a town with a population of 1200 inhabitants, situated about 65 miles east of Petrozavodsk. Flowing first in a 8.S.E., and then in a S.S.W. direction, it falls into Lake Onega after a course of about 100 miles. From Vosnisenya I sailed to Petrozavodsk. Lake - Onega measures about 220 versts, about 150 miles in length, and about. 75 versts, or 50 miles, in breadth. Petrozavodsk is situated on the western shore of the lake. "fhe town dates from 1701, when Peter the Great. estab- lished works there for casting cannon. These: were ba THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. afterwards destroyed, and replaced by other works com- pleted in 1774. Guns continued, nevertheless, to be imported into Russia at great expense from the Carron works in Scotland, owing probably to the unsatisfactory state of the establishment on Lake Onega. In order to improve the latter, Catherine II. invited Charles Gascoigne, the manager of the Carron works, to come over and rebuild the Gun Foundry, which he did in 1794, when the town that had sprung up around it took the name of Petrozavodsk. Gascoigne was accompanied by two Eng- lish artisans, who subsequently rose to great eminence in the service of Russia. Guns for the navy are to this day cast at Petrozavodsk. The Government is divided into seven districts, and the town of Olonetz, on the river Olonza, is the capital of the district bearing that name, while Petrozavodsk is the capital of the Government. Olonetz is a town of nearly 3000 inhabitants, on the Olonka, at the junction of the Meg- vega, about 15 miles from the east coast of Lake Ladoga, 182 miles north-east from St. Petersburg, and 72 miles south-west of Petrozavodsk. It has large building docks, established by Peter the Great, and numerous saw-mills, The soil, where not covered with forests, is in some parts stony, and in others marshy, and generally little capable of culture. Between Lakes Onega and Ladoga are quar- ries of marble and porphory, and in some of the mountains are mines of iron and copper. In the Museum at Petro- zavodsk are beautiful collections of the marbles found in the Government, and models of different places of interest in the Government, and relics of the Imperial founder. Petrozavodsk covers a good deal of ground, surmounted by two cathedrals, in both of which officiates the Arch- bishop of the diocese. Near to these is the residence of the Governor, and the Cazerne or Barracks. The town is traversed by a small river, the Lossalenka. The number of inhabitants is about 7000. Lake Cnega, upon which it has been built, is only one of several lakes in the Government of Olonetz, LAKE ONEGA. 28 The Olonetz chain of mountains, on the confines of the Russian Government of the same name and of Finland, constitute part of the watershed whence the waters flow on the one side into the Baltic, and on the other into the White Sea. In continuation of this chain on the north- west are the mountains of Maanselki, extending from Finland to Uleaborg, at the head of the Gulf of Bothnia; and again, on the north-west of these, they are connected with the Dofrines or Dovre-field, a name sometimes given to the whole Scandinavian mountain system, but more explicitly in application to that portion which, in latitude 62°, 63) N., extends from Cape Stadtnaes to the Sylt- Field, or Syll-Fiellen, in Norway, throughout its length, ads the bason of the Baltic from that of the White ea, The Government of Olonetz, bounded on the west by the Grand Duchy of Finland and Lake Ladoga, is bounded on the north and north-east by the Government of Arch- angel, on the south-east by that of Vologda, on the south by that of Novogorod, and on the south-west by that of St. Petersburg ; it lies between 60° and 64° 30’ N. lat., and 29° 40’ and 41° 40’ E. long., measuring 390 miles in length from N.W. to 8.E. and about 300 miles at its greatest breadth, with an area of 51,100 square miles. With the exception of the range of hills on its north-west boundary, the surface of the Government is generally level, but inter- spersed with undulating hills. It comprises districts form- ing portions of the basins of three far-separated seas—the White Sea, the Baltic, and the Caspian. In the first- mentioned, the north and east of the Government, is Lake Latcha, in which the Onega river and Lakes Sego and Viga have their sources, and in which are numerous sheets of water of smaller dimensions ; in the second are Lakes Onega and Ladoga, the principal tributaries of which are the Vodla and the Vitegra; and in the third is the Kovja. Lake Latcha is about 24 miles in length from north to south, and 8 in breadth. It receives the waters of the Soid; and gives origin to the river Onega, flowing to the 46 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. White Sea. Lake Sego is 30 miles: in length from N.W. to S.E., and 24 in breadth. To the north-east of this is Lake Vigo, fed by the Vig, which enters it on the south- east, and flows from it on the N.N.W. The Kovja takes its rise in Lake Kovjskoe, in the southern part of this - Government; flowing south, it enters the Government of Novogorod, and falls into Lake Bielo, on its N.W. side, after a course of 60 miles. In the number of its lakes, and the relative proportions of land and water, Olonetz resembles Finland ; but the area of the land greatly preponderates over that of the lakes, and in waterfalls and rapids the similarity of the two countries is maintained, though the similarity is not very great. CHAPTER V. THE FALLS OF KEEWASH. I aM indebted greatly to the Forst-Meister in charge at Vosnisenya, and not less so to the Forst-Meister in charge at Petrazavodsk, and to the Oberforst-Meister Giinther, whom I met on my return voyage. Desirous of seeing something of the forests beyond, with the advice of the Forst-Meister in charge, and accompanied by his brother, ‘also a forest official, I proceeded from Petrozavodsk to the Falls of Keewash, which took me through some stretches of old forest, as well as extensive stretches of forests in a state of rejuvenescence, and land which, reclaimed from the forests, had been devoted to agriculture. The latter showed a fertility which justifies those who, though lamenting the inconsiderate destruction of wood, tell that the forests are not to last for ever, and that even the destruction of them may be made the means of promoting the advancement of a country. My excursions into the forests took me over well nigh a hundred miles, and were deemed sufficient to give me a general idea of the condition of those existing in the district. The road which we took brought us in sight of some beautiful lakes, sprinkled with beautiful islets, generally wooded to the water's edge. I had here an opportunity of seeing one of the Objest- chicks, or Forest Circuit Wardens, in his home. This was -anything but a palace. It consisted of but a single apart- ment, with a projection—I cannot call it a verandah— extending the whole breadth of the house, and some ten feet deep. My fellow traveller and I arrived at midnight, and the wife was immediately in attendance to make ‘artangements for our comfort. In this verandah were all 48 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. kinds of agricultural implements, made of wood alone, a two-pronged and a three-pronged fork, cut from the branching bough of a tree, and a harrow with smaller branches inserted into the bars for teeth. The place was lumbered with other encumbrances. On a wooden bed- stead, under a covering like a mosquito net, but made of coarse linen, the man lay awake. His wife showed us to noble apartments in a wood built pavilion, erected by the Government in connection with the zavod already mentioned, and designed for the accommodation of visitors, bringing as we did a permit from the authorities. It was light, for at midsummer there is no night there, but it was very cold, and we returned to the house, where, according to our desire, she was preparing for us a supper of tea, eggs, black bread and butter. Inside there was like con- fusion ; but there was a plain deal table and bench, scrupu- lously clean. Behind a temporary screen two daughters were sleeping ; on the hearth was a blazing fire, on which our eggs were being cooked ; of these there was being prepared no stinted supply, and as soon as they were boiled they were placed for a minute in cold water. Meanwhile, with embers from the fire, the water in the samovar, or Russian tea-urn, was made to boil, and tea was soon infused. We intimated our preference to take it there rather than in the pavilion. Bread and butter were soon on the table, but no knife or spoon. My fellow traveller at once produced his pocket-knife, and laid on thickly the butter; seeing I had none, our hostess soon produced her husband’s forester’s knife with which the bread had been cut, and handed it to me, when I did likewise. Our only light was that supplied by the little fire on which the eggs were boiled, and a small window not above 18 inches square, and though it was now only half an hour past mid- night the light was all we could desire. There was no chimney, but two holes in the roof, about a foot square, one above the fire, the other near the centre of the room. The higher half of the apartment was filled with smoke, which irritated my eyes, and provoked a cough, upon THE FALLS OF KEEWASH. 29 which our hostess brought out a coverlet and spread it on the floor for me to sit upon, while my fellow traveller and she, to use an Aberdeen expression, newsed away about any- thing and everything. We, warmed and refreshed, retired for the night to the pavilion, where was a spacious sitting-room, with bow- window commanding the Fall, plainly, but elegantly and substantially furnished. There were more than one bed- room furnished in like style, a dressing-room with every thing pertaining to the toilet, and a small cabinet with everything pertaining to the writing-table, and outside was a kitchen with hot plates and other conveniences, but there was no bed or table linen, knives or forks, or tea or dinner crockery. All these visitors were expected, in accordance with the usage of the country, to bring with them, together with provisions, unless they chose, as did we, to procure these from the woman in charge. The night was cold, and in the morning we were again fain to betake ourselves to the house of the Objestchick for our morning meal, rather than have it served in our elegant quarters. On going there we found the daughters, as well as the parents, all astir, the former making up for sale small bundles of birch twigs, which are used extensively through- out Russia for switching the body in the national bath. The husband, who retained bis bed when we arrived at nigbt, was now up and ready for conversation. He had five watchmen under him, and an extensive district under his charge, and he appeared to talk intelligently of much that related to his forest duties, and of much beside. His wife had the oven charged with wood in full blaze, and this added not a little to our comfort in the chilly morning. Tea and eggs, black bread and butter, were served to us ad libitum, the butter being laid on thick, and the eggs drunken out of the shell. The smoke, as volumes came belching out from the open oven, was still more offensive to my eyes than that of the evening before. As then, a coverlet was spread for me on the ground, and a pillow placed upon the bench upon which to rest my arm supporting my 30 THE! FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA, head, while I listened to, the conversation carried on by. my fellow traveller and our host. It appeared that on the. preceding night, a bear had entered the kraal, and was hugging one of the cows in a death-gripe, preparatory to: carrying it off, when it was disturbed by the bell of our tarantass, and the rattling of our vehicle over the planks of the bridge by which we approached the pavilion. Bears are abundant in the forests there. Twenty carcasses of cows hugged to death by bears had been found in the neighbourhood of Petrozavodsk in the course of the pre- ceding year, and game of all kindsabound. Winged game, rabschick and tytark, may be had for a mere trifle, and, the mystery of hare-soup being still unknown, hares are a drug, the people being unwilling to eat them, and when they do prepare them for the table they are larded with strips of bacon introduced with a larding pin before being cooked, otherwise, they say, the flesh would be too dry to be eatable. The wages of this forest warder were 18 roubles, or 36s, a month, with eight dezatines, or 20 acres of arable land, free pasturage for his cows, and the horse which he is required to keep. He and his wife had been there for eighteen years. By way of ‘stirrup cup’ our hostess had prepared for us a cup of tea at our hour of starting, and I having asked for a glass of milk, it seemed to give her greater pleasure than even it did to me, to give me as much milk as I chose to drink. I may mention that other forest officials are remunerated in the same way—salary, dwelling-house, and arable land, varying with their rank and position. They hold rank corresponding to that in the army, with corresponding uniforms of which the higher officials have four sets—one appropriated to work in the forests, another to work in the office, another so-called full dress uniform, and a fourth characterised as undress uniform. On retiring from the service they retire with rank next higher in grade to that which they held, and with permission to wear the corres- ponding uniform ; but not until they have attained to the THE FALLS OF KEEWASH. 31 rank of General have they any claim to a retiring allow- ance or pension. From the pavilion is seen a magnificent view of the falls; and there has been constructed below the fall a footbridge, more than half a verst long, leading towards a little wooden temple on the higher level, from which the most striking view of the falls may be had, and other views are obtained in passing along this bridge. The Falls of Keewash are on a river by which a higher- lying lake within the Russian boundary empties its waters into a series of lakelets by which they find their way into Lake Onega, and thence by the Svir into Lake Ladoga. The Russians distinguish between rapids and a waterfall; the. latter they call kosk?, the former koskia. The Falls of Imatra may be cited as a specimen of the koskia. The Falls. of Keewash are, strictly speaking, a specimen of thekoski. As the Falls of Niagara are, divided by Goat Island into two distinct, waterfalls, so it is with Keewash: from the right bank of the river, not the left, as in Niagara, there is a miniature resemblance of the Horse-shoe Fall, and for a- little way behind the surface of the upper stream may be. seen from the shore the vacant space over which the. water shoots; but soon this is broken into what J can only describe as a gigantic counterpart to the falling of the laps of the wig of the Speaker of the House: of Commons, and that worn by the Lord Chancellor of England. Beyond the dividing island there flows away the remainder of the stream, but by far the greater portion of this makes its escape by the side, pouring over and between ridges of rock like the teeth of a comb, and forming a continuation of the fall. A small portion makes: its way behind the pavilion to the lower basin. Elsewhere I had seen logs dashing over waterfalls— rushing along ‘seething, boiling, tumbling, racing waters,’ and had looked down upon the basin into which the waters fell, ‘in whose circling depths logs and tree-trunks, stripped. 32 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. of bark and water-worn, swept round and round, and anon raised a despairing arm to heaven for help, only to sink back into the toils again.’ Of such a scene the author of Frost and Fire gives the following graphic sketch. It is an account of what was seen by him at Vigelund, on the Torristal River, about ten miles above Christiansand. ‘ At every moment some new arrival comes sailing down the rapids, pitches over the fall, and dives into a foaming ground pool, where hundreds of other logs are revolving and whirling about each other in creamy froth. The new comer first takes a header, and dives into some unknown depth, but presently he shoots up in the midst of the pool, rolls over and over, and shakes himself till he finds his level, and then he joins the dance. There is first a slow sober glissade eastward across the stream to a rocx which bears the mark of many a hard blow, There is a shuffle, a concussion, and a retreat, followed by a pirouette sunwise, and a sidelong sweep northwards up stream towards the fall. Then comes a vehement whirling over and over, or if a tree gets bis head under the fall, there is a somersault, like a performance in the Halling dance. That is followed by a rush sideways and westward, when there is a long fit of setting to partners under the lee ofa big rock; then comes a simultaneous rush southwards, towards the rapid which leads to the sea, and some logs escape and depart, but the rest appear to be seized with some freak, and away they all slide eastwards again across the stream to have another bout with the old battered pudding-stone rock below the sawmill; and so for hours and days logs whirl one way, in this case against the sun, below the fall, and they dash against the rounded walls of the pool. Such is the effect of these concussions that above the fall it has been found necessary to protect the rock against floating bodies so as to preserve the way of the stream. It threatened to alter its course and leave the mill dry, for the rock was wearing rapidly. Lower down, nearer the sea, is a long flat marsh, between high, rounded cliffs ; and THE FALLS OF KEEWASH. 33 there these mountaineers, floating on to be sawn up, form themselves into a solemn funeral procession which extends for miles; and it may be noticed that the course of this stream of floats is always longer than the course of the river’s bed; for the water is slowly swinging from side to side as it flows, and the floats show the course of the stream and its whirling eddies.’ It was from the banks of the river at the side of the fall that I got my best view of the cataract. Immediately above the fall lay moored a long raft of logs ready to be shot. We were informed of this before leaving Petroza- vodsk, and a hope was expressed that we might see it done, but in this we were disappointed ; and it was a disappoint- ment, for this is always an exciting scene. I had visited the locality described in the passage cited, and here was everything combined to produce a similar scene—the waterfall and the basin below. I had, however, to rest satisfied with imagining what the scene would have been. I have found few things in connection with forestry more exciting than incidents connected with the flotage of timber. On the Glommen, in Sweden, I have seen hundreds and thousands of logs floating down the river separately, to be collected and arranged according to the owners’ marks upon them at a depédt at a lower level. The breadth of the river, compared with the size of these logs, suggested the idea of some boys having emptied into a brook a hundred or a thousand boxes of matches, and of these being floating away. At any little fall of three or four feet, there they came tumbling down, sometimes sideways, sometimes slanting, and sometimes head foremost, and kicking up their heels in the air. Occasionally in some of the rivers in Norway the trees floated thus accumulate, and become so interlaced that further progress is impossible. There, as elsewhere, logs are transported from the spot where they are felled to the banks of the nearest stream, and marked with the initials of the owner. On the melt- D 34 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. ing of the: ice they are pushed into the:.current,'and.the contributions of many affluents find their way to the river, which may at the time be covered with the floating masses, ‘which become more or less compactly interlaced, till some ) projecting rock in the bank or the river bed arresting some, others are impeded and stopped in their course, and ultimately many thousands, it may be, are stopped, and piled -up in a confused heap. It is perilous work to break ‘up the piled mass, and set the logs afloat upon the stream again. Elsewhere ‘the men employed go about balancing themselves on detached logs in the middle of the stream, pushing on each log by means of a boat-hook, till at last the mass of logs hanging together begins to be disturbed and shake, and then comes the struggle for the men to regain the shore. The skill which the men display. in dis- entangling the logs, the agility with which they run about ‘and maintain their balance on the floating logs, as well as on those which are fixed, the intelligence which they apply to the separation and setting afloat again of all those -interlaced logs, and, in fine, the courage with which they face all these perils, are all of them worthy -of admiration.’ The statement is cited from a report by Dr. Brock, a dis- ‘tinguished Norwegian ‘statistician. The author of a large work entitled. Frost and Fire, to - which I am indebted for the account:.of logs performing ithe Halling dance below: the -waterfall on the Torristal river, ‘some distance above Christiansand, tells that after the logs -have been launched ‘many get waterlogged and sink ; and these may be seen strewed in hundreds ‘upon the bottom, far down in clear. green lakes,’.and he-goes on to say :— ‘Many get stranded on the mountain gorges, and span the torrent like bridges; others get.planted like masts ‘amongst the boulders ; others sail into quiet bays, and rest upon soft mud. ‘ But in spring, when the floods are up, another class of woodmen follow the logs and drive on the lingerers. The launch the bridges, and masts, and stranded rafts, help them through the lakes; and push them into the:stream; THE FALLS OF KEEWASH. 35 and so from every twig on the branching river floats gather as the river gathers on its way to the sea. ‘ Sometimes great piles of timber get stranded, jammed, and entangled upon a shallow, near the head of a narrow rapid ; and then it is no easy or safe employment to start them. Men armed with axes, levers, and long slender boat-hooks, start down in crazy boats, and clamber over slippery stones and rocks to the float, where they wade and crawl about amongst the trees, to the danger of life and limb. They work with might and main at the base of the stack, hacking, dragging, and pushing, till the whole mound gives way, and rolls and slides rumbling and crash- ing into the torrent, where it scatters and rushes onwards. ‘Tt is a sight worth seeing. The brown shoal of trees rush like living things into the white water, and charge full tilt, end on, straight at the first curve in the bank, There is a hard bump and a vehement jostle; for there are no crews to paddle and steer these floats. The dashing sound of raging water is varied by the deep musical notes of the battle between wood and stone. Water pushes ‘wood, tree urges tree, till logs turn over and whirl round, and rise up out of the water, and sometimes even snap and splinter like dry reeds. ‘The rock is broken, and crushed, and dinted at the water-line’ by a whole fleet of battering-rams, and the ‘square ends of logs are rounded; so both combatants .retain marks of the strife.’ At Keewash I was told that the logs shot the fall bound ‘together in floats or rafts, whether single floats consisting of 60 logs, or in long rafts consisting of ten such floats, ‘bound together, I neglected to enquire, but I presume the ‘former, I would have been glad to have seen the effect in either case, but I could not await the operation, CHAPTER VI. FORESTS OF OLONETZ. WisHING to learn a great deal more in regard to the general appearance of the forest lands in Northern Russia than could be obtained on such a holiday trip as I could myself undertake, I asked Professor Schavranoff, Direc- ‘tor of the Laesnot Corpus, or School of Forestry in the vicinity of St. Petersburg, how tbis could be accomplished. He at once supplied me with a narrative prepared by M. Judrae, a forest official of high position, of a tour of inspec- tion which was made by him in 1867. The following isa translation of part of his narrative of what he saw :— ‘The first steamer of the season (1867) proceeding from St. Petersburg to Petrozavodsk, sailed on the 30th May (Old Style), having been prevented from sailing earlier by the ice on the Neva and Lake Ladoga. With fine, some- what warm weather, we left the capital, and a few hours’ hard steaming against the current brought us to Lake Ladoga; but scarcely had we got 30 versts (20 miles) from St, Petersburg when ice began to meet us, some of it in sheets of a very large size; and it was getting dark. The keen north-east wind made itself felt; and looking to the horizon there stretched out before us a sea of unbroken or of congealed fields of ice; the steamer, however, resolately advanced. I took refuge in the cabin from the intolerable cold, but after a few minutes I hastened on deck in con- sequence of the steamer being stopped. There was ice in immense shoals ahead of us, so that to go on in the course we were following would have risked damage to our paddle- wheels, whereby we should have been placed in an awkward FORESTS OF OLONETZ. 370 condition amongst the ice floes of the Ladoga. At length the order was given to cast the anchor and wait for the day. In a few minutes we were fast, and a strangely contrasting stillness and silence pervaded the vessel, while a magnifi- cent scene was stretching around us in all direction. Far as the eye could see were open spaces of water and sheets of ice commingled, and whole schools of black seals moving backward and forward on the floating masses, while with the cold wind were cumbined black clouds and a murky sky, although it was now the 31st of May (O.S.), the 12th day of June in lands where the New Style has been intro- duced. ‘Next day the steamer by some way or another got through Lake Ladoga, and entered the river Svir. Steam- ing along, we found everywhere on the banks on both sides, woods, woods, woods. From the deck of the vessels could only be noticed firs, and pines, and birches, although in some parts of the Government of Olonetz there still grew the Norway maple, the lime, the elm, and other kinds of trees. ‘Now we passed on the left bank of the river the town of Ladenoi-Pole, founded by Peter the Great, and formerly a naval dockyard. A few hours more and we reached Vosnesenya, one of the principal centres of inland naviga- tion by a system of canals, of which there are two or three connecting the Volga with the Baltic. ‘The village of Vosnesenya is situated on the Svir as it’ issues from the Lake Onega, and it is called by the inha-. bitants the Petersburg Gate. ‘It was impracticable to go further by the steamer, as the ice in this lake had not yet broken up; consequently I had to travel to Petrozavodsk by horse, which I did by a: very picturesque route by the western shore. From Vos-’ nesenya to Petrozavodsk by the so-called Vilegarskoi road is 130 versts, or 86 miles. ‘Between the hills are occasionally met with rivers or rivulets flowing into Lake Onega. The current of these is very rapid in consequence of the steep declivity of the’ 38 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. ground: towards the lake; and they present generally the characteristics of mountain streams. The most striking feature of the country is the great quantity of boulders upon its surface, the number of which, if stated, would be almost incredible. They consist exclusively of granite and other primary or transition formations, covered partially - by drift, in which is a red sand in considerable quantity. There are also projecting from the ground granite hills in whole or in part quite bare, or covered only with lichens. . Having examined the works I proceeded further. On the right hand was a magnificent view of the Onega Lake, the breadth of which at this place is above 80 versts (about 54. miles), On the left side of the road were hills, the continuation of those of Finland, which pass. into the- Government of Olonetz, but fall away towards the south till they present an altitude not exceeding 420 feet above « the level of the country around. The surface of the hills.. seen from this point is covered with forests, which consist of four different kinds of trees, intermixed in varying. proportions—fir, pine, birch, and aspen. The height of, these trees, judging by the eye, seemed to be low compared with like vegetable productions. The only impression I | have retained of the course of the whole journey to Petro- . zavodsk, with such opportunities of observation as I had,, was a feeling that.I had gotten into a comparatively. northern region, and that I must be- nearing the polar circle; granite hills and interminable forests, a stony soil, with abundance of waters but a sparse population—these - are my remembrances of my first acquaintance withthe. Government of Olonetz. ‘Every twenty or, thirty versts (14 and 20 miles) there - were small villages inhabited by Karrells, a tribe of Finns_ who have retained the Finnish language, but in every. other respect they are like the population from Novgorod, found in the south and east, and in parts of the central. portion of this government. : ‘Within two weeks after my arrival at Petrozavodsk. I- was.once more on the road in, my Aibitka speeding onward, FORESTS OF OLONETZ. 39 to'the- most northern town in the Government of Olonetz, where, according to the opinion among the population, is the end of the world. This town is called Povonetz. At’ about 20 versts, or 14' miles, from Petrozavodsk is the: village of Thouya, the first post station on the river of the- same name, across which there is a barge ferry. The river Thouya flows into the Onega Lake, and has through- out its course a very rapid current. Where I crossed’ there was wood being floated down from the Government : mining forest estates situated further up, from whence the. strength of the current brought them down. ‘The current brought them with such rapidity and force that the barge was in danger, and with difficulty we reached the other shore. ‘The rapid current is not favourable for the flotage of: timber, and there has been formed what may be called a dam at. the mouth of the river; but this having been broken,:a great quantity of wood has been carried into the Onega Lake, whereby the navigation of it in this part: by steamers ‘has been impeded: It is to be desired: that: some effective measures were taken to prevent this loss,’ which increases the cost of what forest timber is secured.. ‘ Looking at the floating timber I was struck with the: activity. with which the men employed maintained their footing, each standing on a log and holding in his hand a long pole or ‘boat-hook, with which he balanced himself;! and. with which, in floating down the timber, he cleared the: obstacles: encountered ; ‘and these on this river are very, numerous. ‘For this purpose it is generally inhabitants of the: dis- trict. who: are employed, these being very skilful and accustomed to the work. They are here known as “ Onejan,” or Onega men, and Iam under an impression: that under this general. name such workmen. pass’ in St. Petersburg. ‘Proceeding ‘onward to the north, on both sides of the: road there. were to be seen forests and forests, and: nothing - but forests.. I can-affirm that the person who is acquainted: 40 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. with the extent of these forests only by knowing the num- ber of desatins which they cover, has no idea of what that extent is. To obtain this one must travel through them— travelling continuously through forests for five hundred versts ; and he must experience personally the depressing influence produced by the forests and forest-covered moun- tains of this forest region to enable him even partially to comprehend what is implied in the easily pronounced statement about so many millions of desatins. Such numerical statements are required for the production of a national tax, or estimate and description of what fellings should be made to secure a sustained production of wood, and the charge to be made for trees; and the latter is a matter which is not so easy of accomplishment as to many at first sight it may appear to be. Those who are in the trade do not make known what is the cost of preparing the timber for the market, or the prices obtained by them, being afraid of the charge to them being raised. If there be made but a simple allusion to the subject, they begin to complain that they are carrying on their operations at a loss, and that the demand for timber is diminishing from year to year. And to arrive at a knowledge of the truth, the forest officials must solve the problem for themselves, with such data as they have at command. . . . .. ‘At a distance of ninety versts, or sixty miles, from Petrozavodsk, is the village of Leejma, where there is a saw-mill of considerable magnitude, occupied also at the present time by M. Baelaeff. It is erected on the river Leejma, and has two water-wheels and four frames of saws, two for each water-wheel. It works without intermission day and night, and can cut up in the course of the year 60,000 logs; but, in consequence of hindering circumstances, it cuts up only some 45,000, These are pine logs of the length of twenty-two feet, and eight verschocks or fourteen inches thick at the upper extremity, The boards most in demand in the market are twenty-two feet long and three inches thick, which are known as 2}-in. boards; and besides these there are what are called inch boards, FORESTS OF OLONETZ. 4h sent chiefly to Holland. According to the statements of the traders these inch boards are both in quality and price inferior to the Swedish boards of the same measurement, 1n consequence of which the preparation of them in large quantities is not remunerative. ‘Coming next to those connected with Povonetz, I have to state that not far from the post road on the river Koumsa, at a distance of twenty-three versts from Povo- netz, there is a saw-mill belonging to the timber merchant, Mr Zachanieff. This mill also I had an opportunity of seeing. It is built in a very pretty situation, in the valley of the rapid river Kamsa, surrounded by lofty hills extend- ing to the Onega Lake. The mill has one wheel and two frames, and there are sawn in the course of the year about 30,000 logs. Everywhere about it are seen order and clean- liness ; and there is a fire which never dies out, burning continuously the outside slabs, the ends of logs, and other débris ; and what are literally mountains of sawdust fill up the picture of the mill and its surroundings, while the noise ‘of the wheel and of the saws is reverberated by the sur- rounding forest. ‘A journey of some fifteen miles brings us to Povonetz. A poorer and more unattractive town than this it is impossible to imagine: it is simply a village built on the plan of a town. The most remarkable object in Povonetz is an old wooden church staading on the shore of Lake Onega, built by Peter the Great, the only monument which indicates that ever he was here. There is, it is true, besides this, the Petrozavodsk road ; but this is now only; a footpath or track, by which are brought the goods obtained in this town from Archangel. Add to this two or three legends or traditions about Peter, and all records of his having been here are exhausted. ‘ Almost close to the town, on the estuary of the Povet- chankw, is the saw-mill, which gives some little life to the. town, and is the only thing which vivifies its existence. ‘The whole biographies of the place tell only of what relate to the works, besides which the-inhabitants have an 42 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUsSiA. opportunity several times in the course of the summer to- admire a steamboat which visits the place; but - beyond‘ this and fishing, change they: have none. ‘ Almost all the vessels which leave the landing-place of: Povonetz are laden with boards produced at this mill. In- the fullest: sense of the word, Povonetz is a timber town, and on arriving here I felt proud while I thought that my: profession was the principal profession of its inhabitants, : and. had to. do. with the very source of its-wealth: To: determine ‘and specify what is the trade-of the place must- occasion no difficulty to any one. Its imports consist of‘ everything excepting wood and fish, and its exports consist’ of wood and fish alone, the latter principally Triska. ‘The discharge of my professional duties led me further: in the north. ‘For nine versts or six miles beyond Povonetz it is pos- - sible to travel by wheel, but beyond this point the journey- has to be made by water in very uncomfortable boats on: narrow lakes and-rivers connected with them. From the Lake Volozer issues the river Povetchanka, which flows through a very picturesque country. Thanks to the high. hilly shores, the general rapid current of the river, and the frequent. occurrence of considerable rapids, this little river, or ‘rivulet, is in spring changed into a very dangerous: torrent, tearing along, and threatening to engulf and carry, along with it. whatever may: tumble into its waters: It has.a-course of about eleven versts, nearly eight miles, and by dt are floated ‘some 20,000: logs a-year to-the saw-mill at. Polonetz.. ‘The construction ofa road: from near the Lake Volozer to:the: White Sea has been: projected, and the initiative of: the.execution has been taken, but: nothing more seems to: have been done. The proposal created great excitement: throughout the:district; where. there are ‘very few roads of any kind or other ‘facilities .for:communication with other: parts, Scarcely could the. projection .of a railroad in. any: other partvof Russia produce so much discussion,-and-excite somany hopes,as:would the making of a-common road:in: FORESTS OF OLONETZ. 43. this country. This: part of the Government of Olonetz is - passing through that period of its history at which any : measures taken for the formation of roads, the opening up or clearing of forests, or the introduction of regular system- atic agriculture, possess very great interest. ‘Unhappily the execution of this enterprise has not proceeded further than the felling of a strip of trees through the forest along which it was proposed that. the: road should be made. And the general impression is that soon the whole matter will end, for money is not forth-. coming, and the kind of road is not satisfactory. Coming: upon. it at. various points, it seemed to me that the pro- jector or surveyor had of design made it to pass at a distance from the most important centres, and carried it. over uninhabited districts and unsuitable land. ‘For forest operations this road to the: White Sea would not have been unimportant, and, having referred to the - subject, I am led to mention also a proposal which has, been made to open up. water communication between the White Sea and the Onega Lake. Having no accurate: data, but only partial information, I cannot give details or. discuss fully the importance of this gigantic subject. . ‘ Of this proposal it is stated in the Pramiatnais Knjka - or official Notes of the Government of Olonetz for the year 1867, “ The execution of this project, opening up communi-. cation between the White Sea and the Gulf of Finland, . and vice versa, proposed solely with a view to commercial, enterprise, would. for strategical purposes affecting the. whole ofthe north of Russia have immense importance ;” and. Mr Seederoff [a gentleman well known throughout this region, a merchant who has carried on great commer- . cial transactions in Archangel and Nova Zembla, and made valued contributions. to the. different International Exhi- . bitions in the capitals of Europe] says in a communication ; to the Imperial Free Economical Society, “Steam war vessels could proceed from Cronstadt and make their appearance for the protection of the inhabitants of: the. shores: of ‘the ‘White Sea, or, if necessary, of: Archangel, . 44 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. which now, in consequence of the dismantling of the for- tress of Nova Dwina, is left without defence.” ‘ According to the views of Mr Seederoff, there will only be required the construction of a canal fifty versts long, which, opening on the lake, will make it possible for ship- ping to pass from the lake to the White Sea, or from the White Sea to Lake Onega, and, consequently, to St. Petersburg.’ M. Judrae goes on to say, ‘Mr Seederoff has, I think, negiected to take into account the rapids of the Svir, which, to the accomplishment of such a scheme, would require to be passed by a canal; and this would add con- siderably to the difficulty of the undertaking. But both the Onega and White Sea canal and the White Sea road remain at present within the category of projects, and they - are likely to remain there for some time, as no one seriously believes in the execution of either of them in the immediate future. ‘Returning to details of my journey: After proceeding some eighteen versts, or twelve miles, by boat through a succession of narrow lakes, I landed at a place where there was a very narrow path, which could only be traversed on foot. A walk of six versts, or four miles, brought me to the village of Morskoy Mosselgie. The road I found pleasant. It goes along a picturesque ridge of hills, run- ning from west to east some thirty-two versts or twenty- one miles north of Povonetz, at an elevation of some seven hundred feet above the level of the adjacent country, being the greatest altitude in the Government of Olonetz. ‘ This ridge constitutes the watershed of streams flowing . on the one side to the Baltic, and on the other to the White Sea. On the former are narrow lakes, which, with the rivers connecting them or issuing from them, flow into the Onega, while on the latter is the Matkozero, whose waters flowing northward follow the course indicated. ‘On the banks of the Matkozero they fell wood for the saw-mills at, Povonetz, transporting it by carts across the - Mosselgie ridge, the woodmen going further and further : FORESTS OF OLONETZ. 45 -into the interior of the forest, in consequence of the exhaustion of the woods near to the saw-mill. ‘Having crossed the ridge, I found myself in a country manifesting all the characteristics of a northern land. I got into a boat again, and went by the river some ten versts to the village Telekin situated on a river or lake of the same name—I say river or lake because it is difficult sometimes to designate precisely what is seen by the one name or the other, or to tell at what point it ceases to be one or the other, and to take the different character where it should be called a narrow lake and where it should be designated a broad river. ‘The general character of the waters in these regions is the following :—Picture to yourself a comparatively small lake, having a flow barely noticeable in scme one direction. In the direction of this flow the water becomes perceptibly narrower, and the shores get higher, and the water takes the form of a river, distinguishable from the lake above by being narrower and having a greater current, or it becomes a strong rapid, by which the waters flow into a large expanded lake, which serves as a reservoir for the waters of the surrounding neighbourhood. Such are the general characteristics of all the small expanses of water in this region. ‘All the rivers and rivulets here have a great many rapids throughout their course. For example, the river Vuigozero, which in a course of 100 versts, 66 miles, from its leaving the lake of that name to its flow into the White Sea, has seventeen rapids. The fall of the river through these rapids is 272 feet. In consequence of these rapids all navigation of the river is out of the question. Only timber is floated down these rivers and their confluents in spring—and this notwithstanding the stones with which the beds are filled, and other obstacles. From the Vuigo- zero Lake I went 40 versts, 27 miles, by the river Telekin _to its embouchure, ‘The Vuigozero or Vuigor Lake is one of the largest lakes in the district of Povonetz. It is 60 versts or 40 - 46 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. caniles long, and 30 versts or:20 miles broad. ‘It is through- out its whole extent studded with islands, which, according vto the idea prevailing in the locality, are equal in number ‘to the days of the year. Some of these ‘have an area of 50 square versts. Many are covered with .woods, but uninhabited and unsurveyed, so that their contents are unknown ; many of them find no place on the map, and their area is considered as lake, though some of them have good available soil, or are covered with valuable forests of pine. ‘On the shore of the Vuigozero is the Vuigozero. Podost, the most southern station in the Government of Olonetz for village administration, and this uninviting spot must be for a time my place of residence,’ Mr Judrae states what his duties were, and communi- . cates some valuable information relative to forest operations there and in similar localities, all of which may be after- -wards given in detail. Here it is this journey and the aspect and condition of the country as seen by him which alone engages our attention. Of this he thus resumes details :— ‘My duties on the forest estate of Vuig being finished, on the 9th of September I left this place to go further to the north and the north-east, to that part of the Povonetz ‘district inhabited by the Corrells or Karrells; I had to go by boat on the Vuigozero. We had a favourable wind, and the well-filled sails carried the small boat along with great rapidity. ‘I might have proceeded directly to my destination, but ‘I could not deny myself the pleasure, being there, of visit- ing the village of Voitzi, situated at the northern extremity ~ of Vuigozero, 100 versts distant from the White Sea, and in the Government of Archangel. This village is "well known as the site of a gold mine, which is now a thin. of the past. Gold was discovered there in 1735 by a speasant Tarass Antonoff. Mr Poushkaroff, in describing ‘the Government of Archangel, says that at Voitzi, quartz . FORESTS OF OLONETZ, 47 “on being crushed and washed yields 7} zolotnicks of gold ofor every 150 pounds.* ‘The working of the mine at Voitzi was discontinued in (1783. In 1827:gold was:discovered on the banks of the river Vuig, and in the course of the present century inves- tigations have been made several times by private parties, but they have not proved successful in unearthing any stores of the precious metal, and at the present time there : remain only here and there pits and buildings in which the workmen of a former day were lodged. The traditions of ‘the district give in a thousand different forms pictures of the prosperity enjoyed by the peasants in those times. I -had to pay somewhat dearly for the gratification of my curiosity to see the old mine. I had to go on foot 35 versts, 22 miles, to the nearest Karrell village, situated on . the edge of the forest estate of Padan; and my walk was ‘the more unpleasant because the road, or, speaking more correctly the path, according to local phraseology, founded on the topographical condition of the ground, lay across the earth, and did not go with the earth, From the northern part of the district of Povonetz, on to the shores of the White Sea, the ground lies in parallel rows of ridges or linear hillocks, with hollows consisting sometimes of peat bog lying between. The ridges are narrow and long, as are likewise the bogs by which they are separated. ‘They run north and south, consequently for the traveller in either of these directions the path lies along the summit of the ridge, and according to local phrase he goes with the earth, and it is more easy to do so; but if he travels east or west he must walk across the bogs and ridges; and as the crests are about a verst apart, this has to be done in every verst of his journey.’ ‘The Padan forest estate lies to the west of Vuigozero, and covers an area of 570,000 desatins.t All that has been * 96 zolotnicks = 1 1b. Russia, 40 lbs. Russ. or 36 lbs. avordupois = 1 pood.—J.C.B. + A desatin = 40 X 60, or 2,400 Russian square fathoms of 7 English feet. An English acre is 0°37041 of a desatin, which makes a desatin = 2°69972 English acres. A desatin = 4:2789 Prussian morgens., A verst is equal to two-thirds of an English mile—J. C, B. 48 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. said. of the forests of Vuig might be reaffirmed of these, the only difference being that these show a decided pre- ponderance of pines over the number of firs, especially in the northern parts. In general, the nearer we approach the sea the more rarely do we meet with fir, and at last this tree disappears entirely. With regard to the quality of the pine I can state as the result of my personal obser- vation, that within certain limits the quality of the wood does not depend on the latitude, but is in direct relation to the quality of the soil. In the Vuig forests they are met with first in the middle anc northern parts of the Padan forest estate. ‘With the development of forest operations in this dis- trict the Padan forest will acquire much importance in consequence of the number of navigable streams existing in the White Sea basin. In the southern part of this forest estate there is the Segozera, second in size only to the Onega; further to the north is the Lake Ondazero, through which flows the river Onda, one of the tributaries or confluents of the Vuig, constituting the boundary be- tween the Governments of Olonetz and Archangel. ‘On the Ist of October I crossed the frontier of the Government of Olonetz, and in three days I was on the shores of the White Sea.’ CHAPTER VII. FORESTS OF ARCHANGEL. THE report of M. Judrze does not embrace any account of the forests in Archangel. Of these, and of the aspects of forests along a different route from that followed by him, some idea may be formed from the graphic accounts of Hepworth Dixon, in the volume entitled Free Russia. His journey was from north to south—from Archangel towards the central districts of the empire—and it thus supplies an account of what might have been seen on a return journey from Archangel or from beyond it by another route. It is in accordance with what I have myself seen travelling in other parts of Russia, and with what I have heard from others of what they have experi- enced in travelling through the forest lands of the Empire. Speaking of his tour through Russia, he says :—‘ My line from the Arctic Sea to the southern slopes of the Ural Range ; from the Straits of Yeni-Kale to the Gulf of Riga; runs over land and lake, forest and fen, hill and steppe. My means of travel are those of the country ; drojki, cart, barge, tarantass, steamer, sledge, and train. The first stage of my journey from north to south is from Solovetsk to Archangel ; made in the provision boat, under the eyes of Natha John. This stage is easy, the grouping picturesque, the weather good, and the voyage accomplished in the allotted time. The second stage is from Archangel to Vietegra ; done by posting in five or six days and nights ; a drive of 800 versts through one vast forest of birch and ine.’ It is the narrative of this journey to which I have referred as conveying some idea of what travelling in E 50 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. forest lands in Russia is, and of what is seen on such journey. His conveyance was a tarantass, which he thi describes:—‘ Atarantass is a better sort of cart, with tl addition of splash-board, hood, and step. It has 1 springs; for a carriage slung on steel could not be sei through these desert wastes. A spring might snap; ar a broken coach, some thirty or forty miles from the neare hamlet, is a vehicle in which very few people would like : trust their feet. A good coach is a sight to see; but good coach implies a smooth road, with a blacksmith forge at every turn. A man with roubles in his purse cz do many things; but a man with a million roubles in h purse could not venture to drive through forest and step] in a carriage which no one in the country could repair. ‘A tarantass lies lightly on a raft of poles; mere lengths of green pine cut down and trimmed with peasant’s axe, and lashed on the axles of two pairs wheels, seme nine or ten feet apart. The body is ¢ empty shell, into which you drop your trunks and tray and then fill up with hay and straw. A leather blind ar apron to match keep out a little of the rain ; not mucl for the drifts and squalls defy all effort to shut them or The thing is light and airy, needing no skill to make ax mend. A pole may split as you jolt along ; you stop « the forest skirt, cut down a pine, smooth off the leaves ai twigs; and there, you have another pole! All damage repaired in half-an-hour.’ A tarantass was supplied to him for the journey by private friend, and the British Consul supplied him witl trustworthy servant to do what was needful by the wz and fetch back the vehicle when the journey was coi pleted; and the journey is thus described :— ‘This private tarantass is brought round to the gate; : empty shell, into which they toss our luggage, first t hard pieces—hat-box, gun-case, trunk; then piles of h to fill up chinks and holes, and wisps of straw to bind t mass; on all which they lay your bedding, coats, a skins, A woodman’s axe, a coil of rope, a ball of string FORESTS OF ARCHANGEL. 51 bag of nails, a pot of grease, a basket of bread and wine, a joint of roast-beef, a teapot, aud a case of cigars, are after- wards coaxed into the nooks and crannies of the shell. ‘Starting at dusk, so as to reach the ferry at which we are to cross the river by daybreak, we splash the mud and grind the planks of Archangel beneath our hoofs. “Good- bye! Look out for wolves! Take care of brigands |! Good-bye ! good-bye!” shout a dozen voices; and ‘then that friendly and frozen city is] eft behind. ‘ All night under murky stars we tear along a dreary path; pines on our right, pines on our left, and pines in our front. We bump through a village, waking up house- less dogs; we reach a ferry, and pass the river on a raft; we grind over stones and sand ; we tug through slush and bog ; all night, all day; all night again, and after that all day, winding through the maze of forest leaves, now turned and scared, and swirled on every blast which blows. Each day of our drive is like its fellow. A clearing thirty yards wide runs out before us for a thousand versts, the pines are all alike, the birches all alike. The villages are still more like each other than the trees. Our only change is in the track itself, whicn passes from sand drifts to slimy beds, from grassy fields to rolling logs. In a thousand versts we count a hundred versts of log-road, two hundred versts of sand, three hundred versts of grass, four hundred versts of waterway and marsh. ‘If the sands are bad the logs are worse. One night we spend in a kind of protest, dreaming that our luggage has been badly packed, and that on daylight coming it shall be laid in some easier way. The trunk calls loudly fora change. My seat by day, my bed by night, this box has a leading part in our little play; but no adjustment of the other traps, no stuffiing in of hay and straw, no coaxing of the furs and skins, suffice to appease the fitful spirit of that trunk. It slips and jerks beneath me, rising in pain at every plunge. Coaxing it with skins is useless; soothing 52 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. it with wisps of straw is vain. We tie it with bands and belts ; but nothing will induce it to lie down. How can we blame it? Trunks have rights as well as men; they claim a proper place to lie in; and my poor box has just been tossed into this tarantass, and told to lie quiet on logs and stones. ‘Still more fitful than this trunk are the lumber verte- bre in my spine. They hate this jolting day and night ; they have been jerked out of their sockets, pounded into dust, and churned into curds. But then these mutineers are under more control than the trunk ; and when they _ begin to murmur seriously I still them in a moment by hints of taking them a drive through Bitter Creek. ‘But, ah! here is Holmogory. Holmogory was the birthplace of Lomonosoff, a philosopher and a poet of the last century, whom his countrymen greatly honour-—— here is Holmogory, standing on a bluff above the river, pretty and bright, with her golden crops, her grassy roads, her pink and white houses, her boats on the water, and her stretches of yellow sand; a village with open spaces ; here a church, there a cloister, gay with gilt and paint, and shanties of a better class than you see in such small country towns; and forests of birch and pine around her .—Holmogory looks the very spot on which a poet of the people might be born. ‘From Holmogory to Kargopol, from Kargopol to Viete- gra, we pass through an empire of villages, not a single place on a road four hundred miles in length that could by any form of courtesy be called a town. The track runs on and on, now winding by the river bank, now eating its way through the forest growths; but always flowing, as it were, in one thin line from north to south; ferrying deep rivers, dragging through shingle, slime, and peat ; crashing over broken rock ; and crawling up gentle heights. His horses four abreast, and lashed to the tarantass with ropes and chains, the driver tears along the road as though he were racing with his Chert—his Evil One; and all in the hope of getting from his thaukless fare an extra cup of tea. FORESTS OF ARCHANGEL, 53 It is the joke of a Russian jarvey, that he will “ drive you out of your senses for ten kopecs.” From dawn to sunset, day by day, it is one long race through bogs and pines. The landscape shows no dykes, no hedges, and no gates ; no signs that tell of a person owning the land. We whisk by a log fire and a group of tramps, who flash upon us with a sullen greeting, some of them starting to their feet. ‘“ What are those fellows, Dimitri?’ “They seem to be some of the Runaways.” “Runaways! Who are the Runaways? What are they running away from?” “ Queer fellows, who don’t like work, who won't obey orders, who never rest in one place. You find them about here in the woods everywhere. They are savages. In Kargopol you can learn about them.” ‘At the town of Kargopol, on the river Onega, in the province of Olonetz, I hear something of these Runaways, as of a troublesome and dangerous set of men, bad in themselves, and still worse as a sign. I hear of them afterwards in Novogorod the Great, and in Kazan. The community is widely spread. Tinvashef is aware that these unsocial bodies exist in the provinces of Yaroslav, Archangel, Vologda, Novogorod, Kostroma, and Peren,’ At Kargopol he got the information for which he asked, but this concerns us not here. At present we have to do with his journey and with what he saw. ‘ Village after village passes to the rear. Russ hamlets. are so closely modelled on a common type that when you’ have seen one, you have seen a host ; when you have seen two you have seen the whole. Your sample may be either large or small, either log-built or mud-built, either hidden in forest or exposed on steppe; yet in the thousands on thousands to come you will observe no change in the pre- vailing form. There is a Great Russ hamlet, and a Little Russ hamlet; one with its centre in Moscow, as the capi- tal of Velika Rouss [Great Russia], the second with its centre in Kief, the capital of Malo Rouss [Little Russia.] — ‘A Great Russ village consists of two lines of cabins parted from each, other by a wide and dirty lane. Each 54 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. homestead stands alone. From ten to a hundred cabins make a village. Built of the same pine logs, notched and bound together, each house is like its fellow, except in size. The elder’s hut [Starista] is bigger than the rest ; and after the elder’s house comes the [Kabac] whiskey- shop. Four squat walls, two tiers in height, and pierced by doors and windows; such is the shell. The floor is mud, the shingle deal. The walls are rough, the crannies stuffed witb moss. No paint is used, and the log fronts soon become grimy with rain and smoke. The space between each hut lies open and unfenced, a slough of mud and mire, in which the pigs grunt and wallow, and the wolf-dogs snarl and fight. The lane is planked. One house here and there may have a balcony, a cow-shed, an upper storey. Near the hamlet rises a chapel built of logs, and roofed with plank; but here you find a flush of colour, if not a gleam of gold. The walls of the chapel are sure to be painted white, the roof is sure to be painted green. Some wealthy peasant may have gilt the cross. ‘Beyond these dreary cabins lie the still more dreary fields which the people till. Flat, unfenced, and lowly, they have nothing of the poetry of our fields in Sussex and Essex plains; no hedgerow of ferns, no clumps of fruit- trees, and no hints of home. The patches set apart for ” kitchen stuffs are not like gardens even of their homely kind. They look like workhouse plots of space laid out by yard and rule, in which no living soul had any part. These patches are always mean, and you search in vain for such a dainty as a flower. ‘The forest melts and melts! We meet a woman driv- ing in a cart alone; a girl darts past us in the mail ; anon we come upon a waggon, guarded by troops on foot, con- taining prisoners, partly chained, in charge of an ancient dame. ‘ This service of the road is due from village to village ; and on a party of travellers coming into a hamlet the \ FORESTS OF ARCHANGEL. BB elder [Starist] must provide for them the things required —carts, horses, drivers, in accordance with their podorojna; but in many villages the party finds no men, or none except the very young and very old. Husbands are leagues away, fishing in the polar seas, cutting timber in the Kargopol forests, trapping fox and beaver in the Ural mountains, leaving their wives alone for months. These female villages are curious things, in which a man of pleasant manners may find an opportunity of flirting to his heart’s content. ‘Villages, more villages, yet more villages! We pass a gang of soldiers marching by the side of a peasant’s cart, in which lies a prisoner, chained; we spy a wolf in the copse; we meet a pilgrim on his way to Solovetsk; we come upon a gang of boys whose clothes seem to be out at wash ; we pass a broken waggon; we start at the howl of some village dogs; and then go winding forward hour by hour, through the silent woods. Some touch of green and poetry charms our eyes in the most desolate scenes. A virgin freshness crisps and shakes the leaves. The air is pure. If nearly all the lines are level, the sky is blue, the sunshine gold. Many of the trees are rich with amber, pink, and brown; and every fragrant breeze makes music in the pines. A peasant and his dog troop past, reminding me of scenes in Kent. A convent here and there peeps out. A patch of forest is on fire, from the burning mass of which a tongue of pale pink flame laps out and up through a pall of purple smoke. A clearing swept by some former fire is all aglow with autumnal flowers. A bright beck dashes through the falling leaves. A comely child, with flaxen curls, and innocent northern eyes, stands bowing in the road with an almost Syrian grace. A woman comes up with a bowl of milk.