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MEMORIAL POULTRY LIBRARY

Friends and admirers
Date Due

 

Library Bureau Cat. No. 1137

 

Cornell University Library

SF 505.D57 1893

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Tonic
3 1924 003 126 491

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PRINTED BY G@. hk. WARD § CO,

LIVERPOOL.
 

 

HENRY DIGEY.

 

 

 

 
HOW TO MAKE

£50

A YEAR BY KEEPING

DUCKS:

ALSO,

THE BREEDING AND MANAGEMENT OF THE

MOST USEFUL VARIETIES OF

GEESE AND TURKEYS.

°
By HENRY DIGBY.

 

 

SECOND EDITION.

—————-—

 

PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR AT
“THE BURNE,’ BIRCHENCLIFF,
HUDDERSFIELD.

ALL RIGHTS ee
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5057
vs 7
195

4°76
PREFACE.

WEN I had completed the manuscript of this little
volume, I mentioned the fact toa friend, and said, that
T expected I should meet with a great amount of criticism.
My friend, who no doubt thought he was dealing somewhat
leniently with me, said—‘ Never mind, old man, you can
stand it.” Certainly I can, but still I hope my readers will
deal leniently with me, for although my back may be broad,
I trust they will not forget that their criticisms will not run
from me like the water from the duck’s back. In launching
this craft, or, to speak more figuratively, in entering this
little book on the literary pond, “Frail though my craft may
be,” I hope it will be able to keep afloat, and be the means
of showing my readers how to make £50 a year by keeping
DUCKS,

and how to make a further sum by keeping
GEESE.

I trust my readers will be able to do all this in harmony
with the proverbial saying, ‘‘As easy as a duck can swim.”

My object in writing this book is to show ‘“‘ How to make
£50 a year by keeping ducks.” I have therefore written
only on those varieties which I think best adapted to
accomplish the object of my text. I have gone fully into
the breeding and rearing of ducks both for exhibition and
market purposes,
4

Up to the time of writing this book no attempt has been
made to draw up standards for waterfowls, on the ground
that they are generally judged by weight.

Size is certainly an important point in the most useful
varieties of ducks and geese, still there are many other
important points to be considered.

The numerous inquiries I have had from new beginners,
concerning this matter, convinces me that a scale of points
would be beneficial, especially to young fanciers. In conse-
quence of this, I have drawn up standards of excellence of
the varieties on which I have written, and with the able
assistance of several members of the Waterfowl Club, I have
been able to place before my readers such standards, and
scales of points, that I feel sure will be welcomed even by
older fanciers than myself and be a benefit to waterfowl
fanciers generally.

 
PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

N issuing the Second Edition of my book, I desire first of
all to thank the public for the kindly manner in-which
they received my primary effort, and, in the second place, I
take this opportunity of saying how much indebted I am to
the Press for their kindly notices.

That I was quite justified in introducing standards of
perfection, and giving scales of points, has been shown by
the adoption of my standards at the Annual General Meeting
of the Waterfowl Club, held in Liverpool, the 26th of
January, 1892. The only important addition is a series of
articles on turkeys, and how to improve them, which I hope
will be found useful and add to the value of the book.

If the re-issue of my work causes a greater interest to
be taken in the breeding of ducks, geese, and turkeys, and
enables any of my purchasers to add to their knowledge
and to their income, I shall be amply repaid for any trouble

I have taken in compiling it.
INTRODUCTION.

N introducing this little work to small farmers, gardeners,
and cottagers, I do so with the following desire, viz., to
encourage the breeding of jirst-class stock, and to show that
it is not necessary in order to breed ducks, geese, and turkeys
for the table to use a cross, and that it would be far better,
and more profitable, to pay a little more in the first instance,
and thus obtain a good class bird for a commencement.

In order to do this, I shall try to place before my readers
that which I consider practical and easy of achievement, as
it is far from my purpose to write from a supposititious
standpoint. ;

I have made plain rules for the general and successful
management of ducks, geese, and turkeys, which are replete
with every practical information calculated to help any that
follow my advice onward to success.

T also give tables of the different points and their relative
show values in four breeds of ducks and two of geese, thus
enabling the farmer or young fancier to assess the excellence
or otherwise of his stock.

I have not advised the use of extravagant appliances, nor
led my readers to expect unreasonable profits to be derived
from this pursuit.

I have clearly shown that profit can be made by farmers
or anyone with convenience to keep ducks, geese, and
turkeys, and who are possessed of patience and perseverance.

I made profit by keeping ducks twenty-five years ago,
although corn was much dearer than it is now, and the
7

market price for ducklings, fat geese, and turkeys was less.
In an old work published in London in 1750, Mr. W. Ellis
(the author) says :—* A good parccl of ducks will do good
service in a turnip or rape ficld which is infested by the
‘black caterpillar,’ and so will geese and turkeys ”

All these fowls are very greedy of all these insects, and
accordingly have proved a cure when no other application
could.

Again, Mr. Ellis says :—“ Ducks are very profitable be-
cause they run up in growth very fast for an early market.
They eat up the weeds on waters, devour spawn and young
frogs, caterpillars, slugs, and snails, and when fatted under
confinement with pure meat they are dainty food for the
nicest palates, and when sold very early in the season may
fetch eighteenpence a-piecce.””

Mr. James Byrne, of Woodbine Cottage, Harristown,
County Kilkenny, writes to the Weekly Freeman on the
subject of “ flukes” in sheep, and after an able description
of the cause proceeds to give the remedy, which is as
follows :—“ My family, always fond of poultry breeding,
added to their large stock by importing some prize breeds of
ducks and geese, which were kept on the low-laying parts of
the farm, and strange to say, soon after their introduction
the ‘ flukes’ finally disappeared from the land, owing, I am
certain, to the ducks and geese feeding on the slugs. 1
would strongly advise any farmer suffering from ‘flukes’ to
try this simple remedy.”

The above evidence ought to be sufficient to prove the
value of ducks and geese which are kept on farms and
in large gardens, if only for the sake of cleansing the land of
objectionable and destructive insects. Well, now, if duck-
rearing was profitable one hundred and forty ycars ago, and
8

when sold at the moderate sum of one shilling and sixpence
each, what must it be now, when we can easily get twice,
and in some cases more than three times, that price for
them? Good specimens of Aylesbury ducklings realised in
the London markets last year during the months of April
and May the remunerative prices of from ten shillings to
eighteen shillings per couple.

It is estimated that London pays upwards of £30,000 per
aunum to the town and villages surrounding Aylesbury for
ducklings. I know for a fact, that it is not at all uncommon
for a ton weight of ducklings to be sent from Aylesbury to
London in one night during the season. These are killed,
plucked, and packed in flat hampers. They are collected
by the railway companies, and forwarded direct to the sales-
men, who, I am informed, are very prompt in making their
returns.

Now, if Aylesbury and the villages around can rear and
send £30,000 worth of ducklings to the London market, I
should like to ask our farmers, gardeners, and cottagers if it
is not possible for those resident within easy reach of our
Northern towns to breed a proportionate quantity of duck-
lings, and sell them direct to the consumers ?

Ido not think, but I am sure, there are hundreds of
people living sufficiently near some of our large towns
who could add considerably to their present income by
keeping and breeding ducks, geese. and turkeys for
market purposes alone, and much more so by keeping
pure-bred stock, and reserving a few of the very best for
exhibition or stock purposes. It is an admitted fact that
our Lritish ducks, geese, and turkeys stand pre-eminent.
When we remember the prices which are annually obtained
9

for early ducklings and for Christmas geese and turkeys,
it is demonstrative cvidence that there is a good demand,
especially for first-class articles of food of this description.
When we take into consideration the enormous amount of
money we pay to other countries annually, I think there
is not much fear of our markets being overstocked,
especially with our own productions. In the year 1890
oue London firm alone imported upwards of 240,000 fowls,
10,000 ducks, and 5,000 turkeys, and the figures of that
firm showed that a thousand tons of poultry and game had
been imported. No less than £25,555 worth of poultry
and game were imported into the United Kingdom
during the week ending January 2nd, 1892.

Mr. E. Brown, in his excellent work on ‘Poultry
Keeping” as an industry for farmers and cottagers,
says :—“ No fact can impress the importance of this
question more than that just named, but it needs to be
emphasized again and again in order to induce farmers
and cottagers to give this industry the amount of atten-
tion and consideration it so well deserves.”

HOUSES FOR BREEDING DUCKS.

ATERFOWL should always have a lodging place of
their own. They should be kept apart from other

fowls, and under no circumstances be allowed to sleep
beneath their perches. Still, where only a very few fowls
are kept, a little arrangement could be made which would
make them a comfortable berth in a hen-house. This
10

could be done by placing loose boards under all the
perches, so that the excrement from the fowls would fall
upon them, and so protect the ducks and geese from what
would otherwise be very objectionable. The better plan,
however, is to house waterfowls in separate dormitories.
They can then be kept very much more comfortable and
free from vermin.

A duck-house can be made out of almost anything,
varying from a stall in a stable or cow-house, or any
unoceupied out-building frequently seen about a farm-
house, to a pigsty, or the lower part of a hen-house, often
lying dormant behind a cottage. I have seen a most
comfortable dwelling for ducks made under a raintub. In
this case there was a square basement built of bricks, 4 ft.
by 4 ft. and 4 ft. high, with a door in the front, 3 ft. 6 in.
high by 2 ft. 6 in. The floor was set with bricks. There
was a small square of glass and a ventilator in the door.

On more than one occasion I have come across a water
barrel itself converted into an abode for ducks. A very
large cask or barrel turned on its side will answer this
purpose.

About three battens cut to fit the buitom of the cask,
and a few boards 1 in. thick, make a capital false bottom,
which can easily be taken out for a thorough cleaning.

One end of the barrel is taken out and a door made
about two feet wide, the whole height of the cask end.
The material taken out of the end comes in for the door.

Bore a few holes in the top of the door for ventilation,
cover the top of the barrel with any kind of felt, old oil-
cloth, canvas, or anything available, and then give it a
good coat of tar, and you have a very nice house for two
or three ducks and a drake, at the cost of a few shillings.
11

I make a capital duck-honse out of two piano cases, as
shown in sketch No. 1, which cun be bought in most
towns for five shillings euch. Knock the backs com-
pletely out, take tops off, and then place the two cases
back to back. Make the door in the centre of one end,
taking either two or four boards out of the gable end.
Nail 2 in. by 1 in. battens on the inside of these boards,
and your door just fits the place out of which it came.
All the additional wood required to complete one of the
most useful and comfortable houses for a breeding pen of
ducks is about 3 ft. 11 in. by 1} in. board. This board
is sawn diagonally to form the centre of the ends, and is
nailed on the top of the ends. By this means you add 11
ins. to the height of your cases and avoid sawing the ends
to get a fall for the roof. The wood taken out of the backs
of the two cases will be more than sufficient for battens
for the door, also for two battens across the outside of
the two cases, and two across the inside of the ends.
There will be sufficient for a false bottom if you care to
put one in. If you do not wish to put a false bottom in
your house, the spare wood will come in to make a nice
little shed by the side of the house, under which you can
put your gravel, old mortar, etc. Don’t forget a few
holes at the top for ventilation. The boards being nailed
on the roof cross-ways will, of course, require covering
with felt, five square yards will be sufficient.

Your house being now really built, only requires a
good coat of lime-wash inside and well tarring outside.
A nice bunch of straw shaken on the floor and your.
house is ready for habitation.

If you get ordinary-sized cases the dimensions will be
1Z

about 5 ft. by 4 ft. 6 in. and 5 ft. high, sufficiently large
for a breeding pen of ducks. It will also be large enough
to accommodate an average brood uf ducklings. It is easy
of access for the collection of eggs and cleaning out. The
whole cost of material, including hinges, staples and lock,
is fifteen shillings. This is not reckoning for labour. I
never had one made by a joiner, I have always made
them myself, and can make a house of this kind from first
to last in one short day. Allowing five shillings for
labour, we have a really good duck-house for £1.

 
 

DUCK-HOUSE MADE FROM TWO PIANO CASES.
14

I do not believe in large Luuses and large flocks of ducks,
especially for stock purposes. My experience is that a
small flock of ducks, comfortably housed in a cosy little
house, pay much better percentave than a large flock all
running together and housed in one large shed or room.

 

Sketch No. 2. is that of a convenient little house for a pen
of breeding ducks, and is manufactured by Spratt’s Patent,
particulars of which may be found in an advertisement at
the end of this book.

These houses are most suitable for stock-birds, and
roomy pens may be made for ducklings under any rough
shed, or in any out-building. I have seen hundreds of
ducklings all under one rough shed, simply divided by
boards about a foot high. These were being reared for

market.
 

 

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16

DUCK-HOUSE AND ENCLOSURE.

HE accompanying illustration is a sketch of one of

the most useful houses for rearing a large quantity

of ducklings for market, or a less number for exhibition,

containing, as shown on the plan, eight large and

commodious pens all under one roof, six of which are 9ft.

by 9ft., and two 18ft. by 9ft. The partitions dividing the
pens are 3ft, high.

The enclosure is 27ft. by 18ft. and the water tank in
the centre represents a galvanized iron cistern, 6ft. by 3ft.
6in. and 1ft. deep. Water must be conveyed into this
tank in the way most convenient to the ducker. My
method is by means of a 14 inch pipe, and is run off by
means of a brass plug in the bottom, and a drain falling
to the lowest level of the ground, outside the structure

The outside measurement of the building, which is of
wood, is 36 feet x 36 fect, height at ridge 8 feet, and at
eaves 6 feet, and the gates, which are double, are 7 fect
wide. The doors are 5 feet x 2 feet 6 inches, over which
and right along the top of the house, under the eaves, is
run a piece of strong wire netting one foot wide, thus
giving abundance of ght and ventilation

The floors may be of wood, brick, or concrete. I prefer
the latter. The roof may be covered with felting,
corrugated iron, or thatched with straw, but I find that
felting well tarred answers best.
17

As the doors of the pons open out into the enclosure,
each lot of ducklings can be turned out to feed and water
separately, during which time the pen can be thoroughly
cleaned out.

The advantages to the duck-keeper of a house of this
kind are many. In the first place it is more suitable for
rearing a large quantity of ducklings either for market or
exhibition, or the two combined. It is also admirably
adapted for housing stock ducks. It would also answer
for geese, and for preparing any kind of heavy waterfowl
for exhibition.

Such a house can be put up for very little cost, especially
if the ducker is a handy man with the saw, hammer, and
nails, and can put it up himself.

This plan of mine has also another advantage, for
should its dimensions be too large or too small for the
purse, space, or requirements of my readers, they may add
to, or diminish the size according to their own convenience.

This house and enclosure is, according to my own idea,
most practical and incxpensive, considering the amount
of accommodation it affords.
 

 

 

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19

Sketch No. 4 is a correct representation of the interior of
my Duck-house now in use at the Burnez, and although it
only shows three pens on each side there is in reality twenty
pens in this house, each pen being 6 ft. by 4 ft.—total length
40 ft. and 18 ft. wide; the passage in the centre being 6 ft.
wide; the height at the ridge is 1d ft. and at eaves 7 ft. The
pens are divided by wood partitions 3 ft. high and continued
to the top of the house by a frame of wood laths. The
doors are 6 ft. by 3 ft. 6 in. and are boarded and lathed same
as the partitions; it is lighted by means of skylights and
ventilated at the top of each end, so that itis useful not only
as a duck-house, but also as a poultry-house. The floors
are concrete so that they can be easily cleaned out by swil-
ling with water. The roof is covered with strong felting, the
whole structure well tarred outside and lime-washed inside.
It is a most convenient house and was not expensive. It has
the same advantages as No. 3, so far as size and requirements
are concerned.

 
20

PON Ds.

NOW come to the question of ponds. Ponds for ducks
are made all shapes and sizes, and of nearly all kinds
of materials.

The first duck-pond I had was the end of a large oil-
cask, about 9 inches deep and 3 feet in diameter. This
was sunk in the ground, so that the top was level with
the surface, and when there was no water draining off the
field, I had the pleasure of filling it with water out of a
hole 8 ft. deep, which I sunk close by, and, under the
above difficulties, I learned how to keep Aylesburies! As
time went on I grew tired of drawing the water out of
the hole with a pail, so I had an iron pump fixed, which
answered very well for a while, until I began breeding

 

rather extensively, when I found it necessary to have a
larger pond, and to meet the emergency, I bought a
galvanized iron cistern, 6 ft. by 3 ft. 6 in., and 1 ft. deep.
This I sunk in the ground, and had a brass plug put on
the bottom, so that I could let the water off and clean it
out. This cistern is one of the best ponds IJ ever used for
ducks, and is now in use in one of my runs at ‘The Burne.”
In the first place I used water supplied by our corporation,
which passed through a meter, and for which I paid 6d
per 1,000 gallons. Now I have a constant run of fresh
water from “The Burne” coriveyed into this cistern by
means of a 1}-in. iron pipe. It is a very easy matter
making a pond if you have a constant stream of water.
Some of my ponds are twenty yards long, and vary in
width from one to six yards. I first make a wall of stones
21

or bricks, just leaving a space for a 6-in. iron pipe in the
bottom. ‘his pipe is to run the water off to clean the
pond out. Build a wall across the lower part of the
stream, then build another wall of bricks about a fovt
apart from the first, and fill in the space between with
clay made into puddle In flat countries all that is re-
quired is a little excavation where there is any run of
water, and you have very soon a duck-pond. ‘The
difficulties in making ponds are when there is little or nu
water. Then comes in the use of bricks, stone, wood, and
cement, or, better than all, a good galvanized iron cistern.
It is not expensive, holds a good body of water, takes up
very little room, and, by the adoption of a plug, can be
cleaned out easier and better than any other pond. Where
water is scarce, a cistern is certainly the most economical.

You must not believe that ducklings will grow faster
without the run of water than with it, for water is their
natural element, and although I would not teach a “duck
to swim,” I think they ought to have access to it. I
maintain that it is not the nature of ducks to thrive
without water, and I do not think I can offer any better
guide than asking you to follow nature’s law regarding
ducks, especially if you wish to build up an extra consti-
tution requiring extraordinary frame to bear the extra
amount of flesh, and with it the beauty of plumage and
colour. I would put it, that if you want symmetry, a
bright eye, and a general bloom throughout, in order to
yet that condition, which is everything, you must attend to
nature’s behests, and not allow your ducks to die in the
sun, for they will not die in the sun if they can get into

the water.
22

HOW TO BEGIN.

WISH it to be distinctly understood that I am not

attempting to show capitalists how to make £500 a
year simply by multiplying my figures by ten, neither
am I trying to teach those with greater experience than
myself. I only wish these gentlemen had -contributed
their knowledge to others, for many of them have been
for years most successful both as breeders and exhibitors,
and would no doubt have handled this subjeet in a more
stylish manner than I can, and would have been better
able to go into the details of the different varieties of
ducks. Whether it is they do not care about the trouble,
or their other trades or professions prevent them doing
so, I canrot say, but this I do know by experience, that
there is money to be made by keeping ducks, and I will
endeavour to show small farmers, gardeners, cottagers,
and all new fanciers, who have a desire to keep, and still
a fear of keeping ducks, that they may do so successfully,
and that without spending very much money at the com-
mencement. My advice to the beginner, whom 1 suppose
has already some knowledge of ducks, will be very
different to my own beginning. I did not commence very
judiciously. I sent my cash to Aylesbury, and asked for
the best pen that could be bought. No doubt I got some
good birds, for which I paid long prices, Then, like many
more foolish purchasers of really first-class specimens, I
entered them for all the shows in the district, of course
winning the coveted first prize at a few shows. Not
23

satisfied with reasonable honours, I still went on entering
at every show within easy reach, until my once beautiful
ducks were either dead or nearly so. J knew very little
about ducks at that time, as will be seen when I tell you
that on more than one occasion I have washed an Ayles-
bury duck zx warm water! Still I had the “duck fever”
to a proper height, and could only get bits of information
occasionally as to their proper treatment. Being de-
termined to master the Aylesburies, I made a special
journey to the capital of Buckinghamshire. This, I think,
was in 1879, and by persistent observation I saw sufficient
to enable me to make money out of them, and now finding
myself fully the master of the Aylesbury duck, I am
anxious to see it flourish. Still my remarks in this work
are not confined to this variety alone, for, as with geese,
the sauce for the goose will answer equally well for the
gander. Well now as to the beginning :—
First of all be sure that you make a judicious
24

SELECTION OF STOCK.

 

HE selection of stock is one of the most important
requisites for success in breeding Ducks and Geese.
It is most desirable and important to learn what variety
of Waterfowl is most suitable for your accommodation.
All Ducks are not alike. They differ considerably in size,
colour, etc. Some varieties would thrive and do well
under conditions which would prove fatal to others. The
bills of the Aylesburies would undoubtedly be affected on
a ferruginous soil, as would also the keeping of them
under certain other disadvantages, whereas the Peking
would thrive and arrive at the highest state of perfection
on such soil and under such circumstances, whilst the
Rouen and Cayuga would flourish on a class of land and
on waters which would be detrimental to either the Ayles-
bury or Pekins, so far as exhibition points are concerned.
By the same rule the White Embden Goose should not be
selected for land and water containing much iron, for the
white plumage would certainly be affected by it. There-
fore I would advise beginners to consider well the class
of Ducks or Geese best adapted to their circumstances.
Previous to purchasing your stock birds be sure that
you have house or houses and pond complete. If you
wish to be successful keep one variety only. Of course
you will keep that variety which best pleases your taste,
if adapted to your circumstances and accommodation.
25

Personally, I have found the Aylesbury Ducks most
profitable, their reputation for table purposes and egg
production being unrivalled. They are hardy, good for-
agers, and lay an abundant supply of large eggs. Their
colour being pure white, there is no fear of foul feathers,
bad pencilling, &e. Their progeny are, under ordinary
circumstances, fast growers, and put on flesh at a very
early age. I believe I am correct in saying that they
arrive at maturity sooner than any other variety, and, for
all-round purposes, I believe they are the best and most
profitable of all Ducks.

Next to the useful Aylesbury comes the magnificent
Rouen. There is an excellent representation of a Drake
of this variety in Mr. Lewis Wright’s book; in fact, it is
the best I ever saw—but it is tame compared with the
metallic hues and iridescence of the plumage of a living
specimen in first-class condition. The grand colour and
pencilling of a first-class Duck is exceedingly pretty, but
unless breeders are on their guard, they will eventually
ruin the constitution of this beautiful variety.

Size and stamina should be considered quite as much
as colour and marking. Therefore let me caution breeders
not to sacrifice size for the sake of the too fine marking.
Do not select your stock birds too closely related. I
know some strains are already degenerating, and if in-
breeding is indulged in much further, size and stamina
are sure to suffer.

The Pekins will live and do well in many places where
the Aylesburies could not, and the fact of their being so
very wild when at exhibitions may be accounted for by
their enjoying perfect liberty at their homes. I have
26

known Pekins sent to an exhibition without any prepar-
ation whatever, having been lifted off their runs and sent
direct to the show, where they have secured first honours,
being in splendid condition. This variety looks larger
than it really is, being much denser in plumage, but does
not come up to the Aylesburies or Rouens by some pounds
in weight. They are, however, very good layers and
foragers, and when crossed with the Aylesburies mature
very early, and make capital birds for the table.

The Cayugas are a very handsome and useful variety,
and deserve to be better known and encouraged, their
brilliant green-black plumage and great size being suffi-
cient to recommend them. The flavour of its flesh is con-
sidered by some people superior to any other of our
domesticated varieties. I can strongly recommend it to
gentlemen for their own tables It is not only useful, but
exceedingly ornamental, and suitable for any kiad of
land. There is no denying the fact that crossing improves
the size and stamina of Ducks. Still, I do not see the
advantage of crossing two different varieties, even for market
purposes. There are so many fanciers of any one variety
now-a-days that it is easy enough to get a Drake which is
not related to any of our Ducks without introducing the
blood of another variety into the veins of our much-
prized pure-bred stock, which is just as good for the table
as a mongrel would be. The very best would certainly
be worth more than killing price. The few best should
realize the bulk of the profit.

In making your selection of breeding-stock ducks, be
sure that the birds you are buying are comparatively
young. If you purchase ducks two years old, let your
27

drake be only one year old, or vice versa. Ducks arrive
at maturity much earlier than geese. My experience is
that the best results are obtained from birds of one or two
years of age. On no account would I advise anyone to
purchase stock-ducks over two years old or thereabouts,
although they frequently breed well in their third year.
Three or four ducks are sufficient to put to one drake. The
ducks should be selected from one yard, and the drake
from another.

Some extensive breeders of one variety might be able to
supply both unrelated, but satisfy yourself that the stock
you are buying is young, the marking rings introduced
and adopted by the Waterfowl Club being a safeguard in
this respect. Don’t, on any account, be tempted to pur-
chase old used-up exhibition birds for stock purposes, for
there would be nothing but loss and disappointment
attending such purchases.

Buy your stock birds from reliable breeders, and, if
possible, go and look at the whole stock you select from.
You would then be able to judge who are the breeders of
the best birds. Be aware of misleading advertisements,
for there are a few such put in some of our poultry journals
occasionally. Don’t put too much confidence in wholesale
dealers and professed breeders of numerous varieties.
They are seldom able to win at a good show, even with
their very best. If they cannot win with their very best,
you may rest assured that they cannot sell birds for others
to win with, and there is little or no dependence in
their stock. In consequence of rapid and continued
changes being made in their stock, it never becomes a
strain in which there is any certainty. These dealers
28

are continually buying and selling, just as opportunity
presents itself, consequently their birds cannot be relied
upon for stock purposes in the same degree as stock from
a skilful, successful, and careful breeder only.

My opinion on the way to success is to make a proper
start. Go to some breeder of the one particular variety
in which you have decided to invest your money, and
there make your selection according to your requirements
and other circumstances. Use your own judgment to
some extent in making your selection, but don’t on any
account be tempted to purchase old birds, even if they
have fought and won fifty battles— ae., silver cups, &c.
Invest your capital and energies in young, healthy stock,
for there is nothing surpasses good old ones except better
young ones.

In perusing one of our poultry journals a short time
since, I noticed an article written by one of these whole-
sale dealers, in which he cautions beginners not to go to
large exhibitors for stock birds, on the ground that they
often buy their exhibition birds from other breeders.
This may be an exception, but it is certainly not the rule.
If new beginners will take my advice they will go to the
large breeders and exhibitors for their stock birds. Such
large breeders and exhibitors are always prepared to
supply stock birds at reasonable prices, and in very many
cases at prices only a little over killing price. In fact it
is from these large breeders aud exhibitors that the whole-
sale dealers get the bulk of their merchandise. A pamphlet
lies before me as I write this in which the author offers
eggs for sitting from uno less than 80 separate pens of
poultry, ducks, geese, and turkeys, together with nearly a
29

thousand and one other articles varying in form from
poultry houses to poultry pills and insect powder. He
must have a very large establishment, also an immense
staff of men or pupils. I fancy the staff will cousist of
the latter, as the fee for three months tuition is something
over £10. Now, according to the above list, this gentleman
must have 80 separate pens of stock birds from which to
supply eggs There appears to be no allowance made for
more than one pen of each variety. Consequently, the
vendor expects to breed both cockerels and puliets up to
the present state of perfection from one pen of stock birds!

I will not dwell longer on this point, further than ask
two questions. First. Does it not take ten separate
breeding pens of Hamburghs to produce five pairs of
exhibition birds? Secondly. Does it not take two breed-
ing pens of ducks to produce one pair of exhibition
Rouens ?

It will be to the advantage of all beginners if they take
time and carefully consider the importance of the selection
of stock.
30

MODERN AYLESBURY DUCKS.

 

HIS famous breed of ducks, being my own speciality,
naturally occupies the first rank in my estimation.
The great size to which they attain at an early age, the
excellent flavour of their flesh, and the tempting appear-
ance they present when killed and nicely dressed, all are
unequalled by any other breed, They are very prolific,
hardy, and thorough foragers; they thrive in almost any
climate or on any soil, doing equally well in the South of
England or in the North of Scotland; they also do well in
Australia and America. I have sent several consignments
to these countries during the last ten years, and have fre-
quently heard good reports from my customers, Their name
suggests that their centre is Aylesbury, in Buckingham-
shire.

No doubt there was a time when there were reasonable
grounds for supposing that the Aylesbury duck was a local
variety. In fact, it was generally thought (not more than
20 years ago) that this breed could only be kept in perfect
condition in the Vale of Aylesbury, but as the number of
Poultry Shows increased, and with them fanciers, the
“bull was taken by the horns” by old and much-respected
Lancashire fanciers, who soon began to share the honours
with exhibitors hailing from Aylesbury.

A little later on followed a well-known Scottish fancier,
who also managed to keep the Aylesburies in fine condi-
tion. Then came Mrs, Stinton, of Darlington, who bred
31

and showed the Aylesbury duck in faultless condition,
After which came a Yorkshire fancier, who was also able
to keep them in fairly good order. The said Yorkshire-
man feels prond of his stock of Aylesburies to-day, and
feels confident that he has a few good ones, and flatters
himself with the knowledge of the fact that he is able to
keep them in perfect health and condition, although his
land is very heavy and damp, the subsoil being yellow clay.
Iam bound to admit that in Yorkshire and the North
generally we cannot breed them so early in the season as
they can in the South.

For home consumption and market purposes let me
strongly recommend them to farmers and others, for they
excel all others in every particular. In the first place,
they arrive at maturity sooner than any other variety of
ducks. They are as hardy as crows, attain to a great
weight, and are wonderfully prolific. The London markets
are regularly supplied with enormous quantities of them
during the season.

Duck-breeding is carried on in and about Aylesbury by
what is termed ‘a superior class of labourers.” These
are men who have saved up money enough to secure an
independency from hard work, and who do not grudge
giving their whole time and attention to this pursuit.
During the months of November and December high
prices are paid for Aylesbury duck eggs for sitting, ten
shillings and twelve shillings per dozen being no uncom-
mon price at that time of the year, the purchaser running
the risk of their proving fertile.

The streams and ponds within several miles of Aylesbury
are looked upon as common property. Hundreds of white
ou

ducks, with patches of paint of various colours dabbed
upon some particular part of their plumage. may be seen
on the river Thames, or in the brooks, or on the ponds.
These distinctive marks are the marks of ownership. The
ducks generally separate of their own accord, into their
own flocks, towards evening, and they are then driven
home, well fed, and comfortably housed for the night. It
is no uncommon sight to see upwards of 3,000 ducklings
in one establishment. When the outside accomodation is
fully occupied, the cottage or living room is frequently
used as a dormitory for ducklings. They are always kept
very clean and on dry straw.

Very little description is required as to plumage. It
should be of the purest white throughout. Consequently
the Aylesbury duck has advantages over those varieties
which have many colours. Wherever colour and markings
are considerations, size, stamina, and laying propensities
have to some degree been sacrificed for these characteris-
tics, thereby causing degeneration in usefulness. Whereas
the Aylesbury, being one self-colour, is improved year by
year by the introduction of fresh blood. 80 great is the
improvement in this variety that most of the reports in
our poultry journals of the Crystal Palace Show of 1890
assert that Aylesburies get larger and larger. Therefore
I maintain that whilst we are improving this handsome
and most useful variety as an exhibition bird, we are also
enhancing its commercial value as a table fowl. The bill
should be broad and long, coming straight from the skull,
and it must be a delicate pale flesh colour. A ferruginous
soil will often affect the bill in such a manner that it
becomes yellow,
33

Black marks or spots on the bills are very objection-
able, and would disqualify an exhibition bird. The pale
flesh-coloured bill of the pure breed can be kept right in
almost every locality with ordinary attention. Birds for
exhibition must be kept out of the hot sun, and should not
have too much liberty, but I will go more fully into this
subject in another chapter. The legs and feet should be
bright orange, forming a striking contrast with the white
plumage. The body should be long, broad. and deep;
the keel should be long and straight from breast to paunch.

It has been whispered that these keel birds are not the
correct type for Aylesburies, but as they have a common
origin with the Rouen, I think they are the correct type,
for length and depth of keel denotes length and breadth
of breast bone. upon which is carried the most valuable
flesh. Personally I have been most successful with the
keeled birds, and shall continue to breed as many of this
stamp as possible. The keel does not show itself so much
in the first year as it does in the secoad and subsequently.
A well-matured drake, well fatted, will weigh 10lb., but
this weight is seldom obtained. I consider six to eight
pounds very good birds, and quite heavy enough for stock
purposes. A Buckinghamshire bard has said of them:—

“ But of the ducks, the Aylesbury ducks,

There is no need to tell;

Through England broad their fame has spread,
And they themselves as well.

And there’s no man throughont the land,
Nor yet beyond the seas,

That loveth not the Aylesbury duck,
When served with early peas.”
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psy

 
35

SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING AYLESBURY

DUCKS.

VALUE OF POINTS IN EITHER SEX.

Head
and
Eye.

Bill.

Neck.

Breast.
Keel.

Size.

Plumage.

Symmetry.

Legs and
Feet.

Health and
Condition.

 

 

General appearance of head, large, straight
and long.

Dark and full. ses toe xe

Long, broad, and straight, forming a satchel
line, or nearly so, from the top of skull.
A drake’s head and bill measuring about 6}
inches. duck’s about 5% inches; colour of
bill, pinky white or flesh-colour. see

Long. medium thickness, carried in symmetry
with the body. ... ae see aa

Fall and deep.

Straight and deep. forming a straight under-
line from breast to paunch. ... oe eee

As large as possible. A well-matured drake
will measure 36 inches from end of bill to end
of toes when stretched out flat on a table,
and weigh 9 or 10 lbs. and a duck will
measure 34 inches and weigh 8or9 lbs. Any
excess on these lengths and weights should
be allowed for as extraordinary merit.

A spotless white throughout, the drake having
two or three came curled feathers in
his tail. ... me ae

Large straight head and bill, well ater. on a
long curved neck. Long, broad and deep
body, with eee underline from stem to
stern. oes te se “i

Very strong and thick i in bone; well eh 80 as
to balance the body in a straight line.
Colour, bright orange. ... ass wee aes

Eye, bold and clear. Plumage, bright and
glossy, having the appearance of white satin.
Bill, pinky white, and eueeoeal appearance
very lively. sea see ae

Total number of Points ..,

Points

20

10

20

10

10

12

 

.1100_

DisquaLIFICATIONS.—Crooked back, wry tail, or any other de-
formity. Bill any colour other than white or flesh-colour. Plumage

other than white.

the Judge they will not breed.

Ducks so heavy behind that in the opinion of
36

MODERN ROUEN DUCKS.

HE original colour and shape of Rouens, male and
female, was that of the common Malard and wild
duck, but, like all modern domesticated fowls, the fancier
has brought them to a wonderfully improved state of
beauty, shape, and perfection.

There is no comparison whatever in the Rouens of
thirty years ago with our deep-keeled, rich-coloured,
clear-billed specimens of to-day. As for the wild ducks,
they are tame specimens indeed in comparison.

SHAPE AND CARRIAGE.

Rouens of both sexes should be very large. The drake’s
head and bill should be as long and straight as possible ;
that of the duck, long and moderately straight. A dished
bill in Rouens is most unsightly. In both male and
female the outline of the back should be long and almost
straight to end of tail, the curled feathers in the drake’s
tail of course excepted. The breast very deep, and
running with a straight parallel keel, or underline, behind
the legs, where the stern gradually rises to a close-carried
tail,; .Old ducks are naturally more square in stern.
‘seziig Jojo Aueut pus ! ZE8T ‘[oodreary 81

TEST ‘eouTVA TeIShID YST JO TOUUIM ‘oyVIGE UONOY SPTOVeM

‘soul XW

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
COLOUR OF DRAKE.

There are few, if any, of our British fowls that can equal
the lustrous beauty, the harmonious and pleasing contrast
of the Rouen drake’s plumage. The bill should be orange
in colour, a very slight shade of green admissible, but in
any case uniform throughout, perfectly clear from all
black stripes or spots, with the exception of the natural
black bean at the tip. During the summer season, Rouens,
like other waterfowl, cast the outer skin of their bills,
and sometimes this appears in large yellow blotches or
scales. At our summer shows this should not distract
from the merit of an otherwise perfect drake. The entire
head down to the neck ring is a beautiful and most
lustrous green.

The white ring encircling three-fourths of the neck
should be clear and distinct, clean cut, and neatly defined ;
a wide ring shows want of quality. The breast colour
should be a wide, deep, and dense claret, and as clean cut
underneath, from shoulder to shoulder, as the distinctive
colouring of a shelldrake. All the undercolour below the
wings, from the claret to the vent, should be a clear
bluish grey, which is composed of very minutely-pencilled
feathers. Drakes do not always moult sound in their
claret breasts and clear in the undercolour. and when this
is the case they are, of course, unfit for exhibition. In all
likelihood, however, they will come out clear and sound
the following moult, so they should not be despised.
39

Down the centre of the drake’s back should run a broad
dark line, increasing in density and lustre towards the
tail, parallel with which, on each side, on the top of the
wings and including part of the secondaries, are clear lines
of the same colour and shade (or one shade darker admis-
sible) as the undercolour, distinct and clear as possible,
and free from cloudy shades or rusty feathers. A darker
rim again encircles this below, and includes the lower
edge and tips of the secondaries. which blend well with
the dark flights. White secondaries are a great failing
with Rouens of both sexes, and should be guarded against.

The bow of the wing when spread out, which is covered
with short feathers, is cinnamon brown. ‘This colour
behind the wing-bars gradually darkens and descends
into the flights, which terminates in a very dark brown
or black. The only portion of the bow visible when the
wing is closed is a narrow strip extending from the
shoulder-point to the bars. This in colour is a uniform
cinnamon-brown.

The beautiful and characteristic wing-bars, which are
the only features in connection with the male and female,
are composed of a broad purple-blue band, on each side
of which is a narrow bar of black, and again a bar of white.
The black and white bars in front of the blue band are a
shade wider than those behind, but all must be clear,
distinct, a striking and lustrous contrast of colours. The
stiff tail feathers of the drake should be dark-brown, like
the flights, a very narrow lacing of white on the lower
edge of each tail feather admissible. More white than
this is objectionable. White or ashy tail feathers denote
unsoundness, and white rumps and white secondary wing
40

feathers are sure to follow. The upper tail coverts, the
curled feathers, and directly under the tail should be a
glossy green-black. The blue-grey undercolour should
join on to the black, under the tail, sound and clear.
The undercolour here has a decided tendency to terminate.
too light in colour, frequently an objectionable band of
white divides the blue and the black. All breeders have
this difficulty to contend with more or less in breeding
bright-coloured drakes.

The other extreme is also objectionable in the exhibition
specimen. If drakes are too dark underneath, behind the
legs, they are generally too cloudy and dark on the back,
although these are useful birds to breed from occasionally.

 
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eee ey

 

 

 
42

COLOUR OF DUCKS.

 

The down and undercolour of a Rouen duck is black or
dark-brown. ‘The upper ground colour almost throughout
is also dark-chestnut brown, with a greenish lustre.
Each feather has an inner and outer pencilling of rich
golden brown. This pencilling should be as even and
uniform on the breast, back, underbody, rump, and tail as
possible, the exceptions being the head, neck, throat, and
bow. The three former are brownish-grey, two light-
brown lines running from the base of the bill above the
eye. The visible part of the wing bow, as described in
the drakes, is a dull-brown, with a single gold minute
pencilling round each small feather, resembling honey-
comb in shape and regularity. The wing. the wing bars,
and the primary flights are exactly the same as those of
the drake already described.

A perfect duck’s upper bill in colour should be a bright
orange with a decided black centre mark, which must
neither extend to the base of the bill, the side edges, or
within one inch from the end.

Green or lead-coloured bills are very objectionable in
both sexes, but during the breeding and moulting season
the best marked bills go temporarily dull in colour.
48

SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING ROUEN

Head and
Beak.

Colour of
eak.

Neck.

Ring.

Claret
Breast.

Pencillings.
Stern.

Tail
Coverts.

Back and
Rump.

 

DRAKES.

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS,

General appearance of the head should be mas-
sive, and of rich iridescent green, with long,
wide, flat beak. well set on, in a straight line
from the tip of the eye. tee aes

A bright greenish had wen black bean at
the tip. ...

Long and tapering, slightly curved but not
arched, carried erect in symmetry with ei
Colour, rich iridescent green. a ce

Perfectly white and clean cut, dividing green
neck and claret breast, but not quite en-
circling the neck, Havin a small space at
back. see eee ase wes

Rich claret colour, coming well under, clean
cut, not runniug into body colour, and quite
free from white pencilling or chain armour

Colour. a rich bluish French-grey ground, well
pencilled with glossy black, pertenuly free
from white, rust or iron. se as

Same ground as flank, very boldly pencilled
close up to vent, finishing in an indistinct
curved line (perfectly free from white) fol-
lowed by rich black feathers up to tail coverts.

Colour. black or slaty-black, with brownish
tinge, with two or three greenish-black curl
feathers in centre. os ae ws 56

Colour, rich greenish-black from between
shoulders to rump. __... sé :

Carried forward

 

Points

10

50
44

SOHEDULE FOR JUDGING ROUEN DRAKES—CONTINUED.

 

Bars.

S |
|

\ Flights.

Colour
throughout

Size.

Symmetry.

Legs and
Feet.

Health and
Condition.

 

Brought forward

Pale clear grey. (Small coverts) French-grey
very finely pencilled. (Pinion coverts) dark
grey or slaty-black. ... oe aaa

Two, composed of one line of white in centre
of small coverts; colour, grey, tipped with
black, also forming a line at the base of the
flight covyerts, which latter feathers should
be a slaty-black colour on the upper side of
the quill and a rich, bright iridescent blue on
the lower side, each of these feathers being
tipped with white at end of lower side, form-
ing two distinct white bars (the pinion bar
being edged with black) with «a bold blue
ribbon mark between the two.

Slaty-black, with brown tinge free from white.

Distinct markings, clean cut and well defined
in every detail. Plumage bright and glossy.

As large as possible, 36 inches being a fair length
from end of bill to end of toes when stretched
out on a table, 9 to 10 lbs. being a fair pie
weight for a matured bird.

Great length, broad and square, very acep in
keel, just clear of the ae from stem to
stern. -

Large in bone and well sek; so as ts balance the
body in a straight line. Colour, bright red ..

Bright and glossy plumage, wearing every
feather, bold and clear in eye. Heavy in
weight but not broken down ... see so

Total number of Points

 

Points

50

10

10

10

10

.-|100°

 

DISQUALIFICATIONS.—Crooked back, wry tail, or any other
deformity; white flights; no ring on neck ; black saddle on beak;
leaden beak; wing down or twisted; no wing bars; broken down

in stern.
SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING ROUEN
DUCKS.

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS.

Points
Head and |As near approaching the drake in size, shape, :

- and form as possible, ... wig ees vel 8

‘ I

Colour of | Rich golden, almond, or chestnut brown, with
Head, a wide brownish-black line from the. base of
the beak to neck, and very bold black lines
across the head, above and below the eye,
filled in with smaller lines between ... wl 5

lour of | Bright orange, ground with black saddle ex-
Co ea. tending nearly across to each side of the beak
Saddle. and about two-thirds down towards the tip,
° with bean asin the drake. ... os --1 10

Neck. Long and ieciog, slightly curved, and carried
in symmetry with the body as in the drake,
same colour as head, with brownish wide
line at the back of neck from Rees
shading to black up to head. 5

: Ground | Rich golden, almond, ot chestnut-brown, « even
Colour. in colour throughout. sua. “igs se RY

Pencilling. Every feather, excepting wing flights and bars,
should be distinctly pencilled from throat
and breast to flank and stern, with lustrous
black or very dark bruwn, including back
and rump, and wing and tail coverts, with a
greenish lustre in black pencilling on rump.| 99

Bars Two distinct white bars, with bold blue ribbon
6 : mark between, as in the drake. cts xe
Zz
= (Flights. 'Brownish, slaty-black, no white. ae ee,

 

 

Carried forward .., ol 65
46

SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING ROUEN DUCKS,

Size.

Symmetry.

Legs and
Feet.

Health and
Condition,

 

CONTINUED.

 

Brought forward ...

As large as possible, about 34 inches in ran
and 8 to 9 lbs. is a fair good weight ..

Long. broad and square, massive in appearance
every way, very deep in keel. square in
carriage from stem to stern, but not euenee
the ground. ie se ae at

Colour, dull brown orange. Large in bone and
well set. so as to balance the beay in a
straight line. ... ‘ies ze aioe

Full plumage. bright and full of lustre. Bold
eye. Heavy but not down in stern .., .

Total number of Points ...

 

Points

65

10

10

10

- 100

DIsquaLIFICATIONS.—Crooked back, wry tail, or any other de-
formity ; white ring, or approaching white, on neck; wing down;
white flights; no wing bars; leaden beak; broken down in stern;
or so heavy that in the opinion of the Judge they will not breed,
47

MODERN PEKIN DUCKS.

HIS variety differs from all others in shape and carriage.

It has been wonderfully improved since its first im-

portation into this country. It is of Chinese origin, and
was first imported into England about eighteen years ago.

The Monthly Freeman for March, 1891, says :—‘ The
Pekin duck was brought from China to this country and the
United States of America by Captain J. E. Palmer, in the
year 1874. The large size, colour, and splendid appearance
of these birds caused a great demand for them. Their
marvellous egg production, and adaptation for fattening,
was the talk of the fanciers, but in a few years they reduced
in size and egg production, and also became in many cases
unfertile. This was caused by continuous incestuous breed-
ing. Captain Palmer made a second importation. These
were brought from Pekin to the coast by Major Ashley, and
put on board the vessel. Fresh blood brought back their
original vigour, and the Pekins once more regained their
original standing and popularity.”

The monthly refers to the remote past in the following
words :—“ The Pekin duck, like the Cochin, is possibly the
product of several thousand years culture. This is shown
by the size and form, and almost rudimentary wings. The
widest, or furthest departure from the wild Mallard. At
one time it appeared as if it would take the place of all
48

others, but the rage for Pekins did not last very long.
Although it looks immense in frame, it is very deceptive in
weight, as it is not predisposed to excessive fat. Immense
looking specimens will seldom weigh more than seven or
eight pounds each.”

One authority on the Pekin duck says:—‘The flesh being
rather dry does not compare well with the flavour of the
Aylesbury or Rouen’s,” whilst Mr. Lewis Wright says :—
“The flesh is delicate and free from grossness’’; and I quite
agree with Mr. Wright.

The general characteristics of the Pekin are peculiar to
itself, the carriage being most striking of all. It is almost
upright in appearance, resembling as near as possible that
of a small, wide boat standing on its stern, the bow leaning
slightly forward. The head is large and carried well for-
ward. The bill should be short, straight, and thick, and of
a.bright orange colour. : The neck should be thick and long,
and when furnished with a@ nice mane or frill on the top, it
adds greatly to its beauty, The body should be as long,
broad, and deep as possible.

Opinions differ as to keel; but my own idea is with those
in favour of it, for, as with other varieties of ducks, depth
of keel denotes depth of breast bone, on which is carried
the most valuable flesh; and whether keel is the correct
type or otherwise, it will be ‘found useful.

I find by careful observation that the birds with this par-
ticular paint most developed are the birds which have won
the principal honours at the majority of our best exhibitions
during the last few years.

The legs and feet are of a bright orange colour, and are
 

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49

set well back, causing the bird to carry its body in a very
erect position, almost like that of the Penguin. This erect
carriage is much admired by judges and fanciers, and is
sometimes termed style, without which, there would not be
much chance of winning a prize now-a-days at any of our
large shows, for, as a rule, this variety comes up in great
force when proper classification is provided for them.

Pekins are non-sitters and good layers. They are also
good table birds, putting on flesh and maturing at an early
age; but, unlike the Aylesburies or Rouens, they cannot
bear confinement. They are very lively and rather wild in
their habits, and seem to thrive best when at perfect liberty,

They are difficult to fatten in confinement when pure
bred, but when crossed with some other variety, the produce
grow amazingly, and may be got ready for market quite as
early as the pure Aylesbury, and under some circumstances
would be more profitable.

They are, undoubtedly, a valuable variety, and have justly
gained popularity by their beauty and economic qualities.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pair of Modern Pekins. The Drake winner of first and cup at the Crystal
Palace; first, cup, and challenge cup, Liverpool, 1891. Duck winner of first,
Crystal Palace ; first and special, Liverpool ; first and special, Gladstonbury,
and many other prizes. The property of Mr. Frederick Davis, Woolashill,
Pershore.
51

SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING
PEKIN DUCKS.

VALUE OF POINTS IN EITHER SEX.

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEKIN.
Points

Head and ‘Gaal appearance of head, large; skull, broad
Eye and high; cheeks, heavy ; throat, slightly

. gulleted; eye, dark, and partially shaded by

heavy eyebrows, and bulky cheeks. ... | 5

Bill. Short, broad and thick, slightly curved, but
not dished, bright orange colour, and free
from black marks or spots. ... ... | 10

Neck. Long and thick, carried well forward in a
graceful arch or curve. reg i | OD

Body. General appearance of the body, that of a small,
wide boat standing almost on its stern, and
the bow leaning slightly forward. Breast:
broad and full, followed in underline by the
keel, which should increase in depth between
the legs to a broad, deep paunch and stern,
carried only just clear of the ground. 10

Tail. The tail should rise abruptly from the stern,
the quilled feathers curving upwards towards
the neck, with an immense growth of
plumage on the rump, almost covering the
guills of the tail. The drake should have
two or three pe eee feathers on

thetop .. x5 eee oes ee:

Size. As large as possible. A well-matured drake
will weigh 8 to 9 lbs., and a duck 7 to 8 lbs.
Any excess on these weights should be allowed
for as being of extraordinary merit. | 20

 

 

Carried forward See we 55
52

SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING PEKIN DUCKS—CcONTINUED.

Legs and
Feet.

Plumage.

Carriage
and
Symmetry.

Health and
Condition.

 

Brought forward

Legs and feet should be strong and stout in
proportion to the size of the bird, set far
back, causing very erect carriage, and be of
a bright orange colour Se as vee

The plumage must be a sound, uniform buff-
canary, or deep cream-colour throughout. It
should also be much more abundant in this
than in any other variety of ducks. An
arched mane on the neck adds greatly to the
beauty and character of a Pekin. The thighs
and fluff should be well furnished with an
abundance of long soft downy feathers.

Head: short and thick, carried well forward
on a long, thick, handsomely-curved neck.
Body: long and deep. Shoulders and back :
broad. Breast: very prominent, keel com-
mencing at breast and increasing in depth to
paunch, which rises up to a high-carried and
well-spread tail. Legs and feet: set well
back, compelling the bird to carry its body
erect, and in a style peculiar to this variety..

Genera] appearance: very lively. Eyes: bright
and clear. Plumage: bright and glossy. and
one even colour from head to tail. Beak,
legs, and feet, clean and bright in colour. ...

Total number of points ee

Points

55

15

15

 

DISQUALIFICATIONS.—Crooked back, wry tail, or any other
deformity ; white plumage; black marks or spots on the bill; or so
heavy behind that in the opinion of the Judge they cannot breed.
53

THE CAYUGA DUCK.

This handsome and useful variety of waterfowl has, during
the last few years, gained much favour, as was visible at the
late Liverpool show, the classes being well filled with birds
of great merit, the really marvellous improvement of this
variety being very striking; and there is no doubt that
“the large black duck of North America” is gradually
becoming more popular. The beauty of their lustrous
green-black plumage, the great weight to which they attain
at an early age, along with their undoubted economical
qualities, their hardihood and prolific laying propensities, are
sufficient to recommend them; and not only as a fancy duck,
but also as a bird of intrinsic commercial value. It will
thrive and keep itself in first-class exhibition form on any
soil and in almost any kind of water. It is equally well
adapted for exhibition or market purposes, and I have the
greatest confidence in recommending the Cayuga both as an
ornamental and useful variety of duck.

A large breed of “black ducks” has been known in
England since the beginning of the present century, but
opinions differ as to their origin; however, it is a matter of
perfect indifference to me whether they were in the first
place cultivated and made into a sub-variety in England, or
whether they were first established on the banks or on the
lake Cayuga, from whence they take their title.
54

There is no doubt they have a common origin with our
other large domesticated ducks.

The marked improvement in the Cayugas, both as regards
size and colour, is so great, that I have every reason to
be well satisfied with them, and there is no denying the
fact that they can be kept in perfect health and condition
under circumstances which would prove fatal to either
Aylesburies or Pekins. In shape they are becoming more
like that of a first-class Rouen or Aylesbury. Specimens
may now occasionally be seen with long straight heads and
beaks, long necks and bodies, and deep breasts, and keels
may also be found in some of the best specimens.

Now, with reference to breeding Cayugas, I believe there
is still very great improvement to be made in this variety,
and as size is a very important point, and one which will
always have my consideration in preference to ‘‘ green
sheen,” therefore, I would advise breeders to try one or
two experiments, namely, cross your Cayugas with the
Rouens, Pekins, or Aylesburies.

If the experiment is made with the former, you may
naturally come to the conclusion that the brown colour will
take more breeding out, being most closely allied to the
original parent stock, the Mallard. If you use the Pekin,
the carriage will be the most difficult thing to contend
with. If you use a good Aylesbury duck and a Cayuga
drake you will find the result very satisfactory, for, as a
rule, the ducklings would be either black or white, and
would remain so until the second moult, which would of
course be in their second year, when the black ones would
throw a certain percentage of white feathers, perhaps a few
more than they do now, in which case the selection of
55

the next year’s breeding stock should be carefully and
judiciously made. All the white ones should be killed
and marketed as soon as they are fit; also all those
which throw too many white feathers during their second
moult.

Pure-bred Cayuga ducks often show white feathers on
their breasts and other parts of their bodies during the
second or third moult. This does not always point to
impurity of blood. I have known stock birds showing
many white feathers on the breast and on other parts of
their bodies whose progeny were all perfectly black during
the first year, but during their second moult they also
showed white feathers.

I do not think the Cayuga can be improved by in-
breeding, neither do I think the East Indian would be
of any service for this purpose, for they are too small.

The Cayuga duck has undoubtedly been crossed with
both the East Indian and the Rouens. The former impart-
ing the most beautiful green-black plumage, but at the
sacrifice of size. On the other hand, the Rouens certainly
improve the size of the Cayuga, but the affinity for the
colour of the Mallard is so great, that it would take
years to breed it cut again.

I noticed several of the largest specimens at the late
Liverpool show with brown pencilling on the breast and
throat.

I have no hesitation in saying that white could be
bred out in less than half the time it would take to
breed out the brown, so great is the tendency to revert
to the original parent stock.

The above experiments may appear troublesome to some
56

fanciers, causing, as they undoubtedly do, many sports,
and apparently freaks of nature, but in my opinion? such
experiments, when carried out in a judicious manner, are
the correct way to improve this useful variety of ducks.
While if inbreeding or crossing with a more diminutive
breed were indulged in for the sake of colour, we should
eventually ruin the excellent qualities of the Cayuga.
Trerefore, let me advise breeders of this variety not to
cross with the East Indians, and if you try experiments
with any other variety, kill off all birds which are not of
the stamp or colour you desire.

The ducklings produced by such experiments would be
of first-class quality for the table. They would mature
early and attain to a good size. The skin and flesh
would be white, very fine in texture, and rich in flavour.
I have seen Cayugas weighing 15 Ibs. the pair at six
months old, but they were exceptionally fine birds. They
are naturally very quiet in their habits, and seem to do
well under almost any circumstances. IJ would strongly
recommend them to gentlemen who have accommodation
for a few ducks.

The flesh is quite fequal, if not superior in flavour, to
any vther variety of domesticated waterfowl.
‘stABq] ‘por ‘ay Jo Aq1adoad ayy,
‘WBySulMIig “sig pus ‘moyg AI1eq ou} qe ozltd ysxg jo stauutM ‘svSnkeg Jo seg

 

 

 

 

 

 
SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING CAYUGA
DUCKS.

VALUE OF POINTS IN EITHER SEX.

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CAYUGAS.

Points
Head and |General appearance of the head : large, and of
Eye. a lustrous green colour, with long, wide, flat
beak, well set in a straight line from the tip
of the eye, which is full and black ... veoh “8

Colour of |A slaty-black, with a dense black saddle in the
Bill. centre, but not touching the sides nor coming
within one inch of the end. The bean black.| 5

Neck. Long and tapering, carried in a graceful curve.
Colour: a bright lustrous green was o| 5

Body. Long, broad and deep, breast prominent. The

keel coming well forward to breast, which
forms astraight underline from stem to stern.
Colour throughout, a bright metallic black
with as much green lustre as is possible to
get. The wings naturally are more lustrous
than the rest of the body plumage ... | 10

Tail. Carried well out and closely folded, and in the
drake’s two or three curled feathers in the
centre wae ea wee ae, sii vel BD

Size. As large as possible. A well matured drake
should weigh 7 to 8 lbs, and a duck 6 to 7 lbs.
Any excess on these weights should be
allowed for as of extraordinary merit +1 90

Legs and | Large and strong in bone, placed midway in
e et the body, giving the bird a similar carriage

sg to that of the Rouen. Colour: a dull dia
brown... oes its its wel 5

 

 

Carried forward .,, «| 55
59

SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING CAYUGA DUCKS.

Plumage.

Symmetry.

Health and
Condition.

 

CONTINUED.

Brought forward ... aes

The plumage should be a lustrous green
throughout, and as free from purple or white
as possible. The whole of the back and upper
part of the wings, the breast, and under parts
of the body being deep black; brown or
purple being AEE, although not a
disqualification ... si ee

Large head well carried on a long curved neck.
Great length of body; broad and square;
deep in keel; clear of the ground from breast
to paunch. Shoulders broad; back Jong;
tail carried well out; legs and feet well set
so as to balance the body in a straight line...

General appearance very lively. Eyes bright
and clear. Plumage bright and glossy
throughout, with as much green lustrous
bloom on as possible. Beak, ee and feet,
clean and bright in colour... ae

Total number of Points ... fos

 

Points
55

15

20

10

 

1100.

DISQUALIFICATIONS.—Crooked back, wry tail, or any other

deformity.

Bill: orange or dished.

Red or white feathers amongst the black plumage.
60

BREEDING AND TREATMENT OF
BREEDING STOCK.

 

had due regard has been paid to the “selection of stock,”

having paid sufficient attention to the variety to be
kept, and also the object to be attained, breeding will be
found a very important part of the business; in fact, the
part which will bring the “grist to the mill,” if carried
out in a proper manner.

In order to make ducks pay a good return it is absolutely
necessary to fix upon the object to be attained. There
is not a shadow of a doubt that breeding exhibition ducks
aud geese has been very profitable to many farmers (whose
names I could give). Neither is there any doubt that as
they are reared in Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire for
the Jondon market, that they can be and are annually
produced most profitably.

If the breeding and rearing of ducks and geese were
better understood and developed into a systematic industry,
there is not the slightest doubt in my mind that their
culture could be made the means by which substantial
profits could be made Ducklings for market should be
bred as early as possible. They should be raised under
the most favourable conditions to ensure rapid growth
and early maturity, and they should be killed when the
food that has been given to them has produced the best
results, Before they begin to cast their first feathers they
61

should be marketed or sold to private customers, at the
season when the demand is greatest, and consequently
the prices highest.

In order to be able to get eggs to produce early duck-
lings, it is necessary that your breeding stock should be
young, healthy, vigorous, medium-sized birds. They should
always have perfect liberty, and should not be exhibited
at all. If you disturb your breeding stock by sending
them to shows you will certainly have to wait weeks
longer for your eggs for sitting Therefore I would advise
all breeders to let their stock birds stay at home. Don’t,
on any account, send your breeding ducks unaccompanied
to shows. If you will allow them to remain at home
their progeny will not only be stronger but more numerous.
If you send them long distances and friendless to exhibi-
tions your chances cf winning are only very small, for when
they arrive at the show they are at the tender mercies
of the committee, who will very often forbid water or
food being supplied until after judging.

I have often complained aloud in reference to this matter,
and in one or two cases I have been the means of food
and water being supplied before judging.

When waterfowl are sent to shows, and subjected to the
usual treatment, their constitutions are to some extent
impaired, and many really first-class stock birds have been
reduced to absolute sterilty by being over-shown. They
have been returned home with empty honours, their whole
system broken down by a desire for fame, which was
almost impossible for your otherwise first-class breeders to
obtain. They have been ruined and made worthless for the
purpose for which you bought them.
62

In these days of keen competition the exhibition bird is
one thing, but the best stock birds for producing these
monsters quite another. If you wish to breed ducks and
geese for exhibition, and you have a desire to surpass all
others in the show pen, don’t be in a hurry to hatch
very early birds.

I find that ducks and geese hatched in April or May,
grow very fast and make plenty of bone in a very short
time, and these are the birds which eventually make the
monsters by the time of the Crystal Palace Show. They
have all the warm weather to grow in, and their nature
appears to take advantage of it.

Personally, I have always been most successful witb
birds hatched in May, If your stock birds are laying a
satisfactory number of well-formed and properly shaped
eggs, let well alone, but if they are only laying indifferently,
or if the eggs are irregular in shape, appearing rough or
thin in shell, or, as is sometimes the case, without shell
altogether, or should they lay double-yolked eggs, or pro-
duce two eggs in one day, or be found guilty of other
irregularities, then you may be sure there is a reason for
such irregularities, and try to discover it.

Now, as a rule, most, if not the whole, of these freaks
point to one common fault, and that is feeding your breed-
ing stock too liberally on stimulating or improper food.
Should you be troubled by any of the above annoyances
just take the trouble to see if you cannot find out the
reason why. If you succeed in finding out the reason
for the defects, remove the cause, and the disease will
disappear,

In nine cases out of ten you will find that your breeding
63

stock have been living too well, in which case all stimu-
lating foods should be discontinued, and only the very
plainest kinds of food given to them, especially when your
breeders have a good run on grass land. It is very im-
portant that your stock birds should be supplied with an
abundance of shell-making material, such as lime, chalk,
shells of different sorts, ashes, old mortar, rubbish and
gravel. All these should be supplied to waterfowl regu-
larly, but more especially during the breeding season.

Having procured a really good breeding pen of ducks
from one or two reliable breeders, and which are about
or a little over the average size, put them on the run on
which you intend they should remain, until you have got
all the eggs they will lay. Waterfowl should not be
removed from one run to another during the breeding
season, for when they are disturbed they frequently
cease laying for a time. ‘Therefore, in order to get the
best results attainable, it is requisite to give your stock
birds undisturbed peace at home.

Individual ducks of one family vary considerably: in
this prolificness, and I have owned birds which have not
laid more than thirty eggs in a season ; whilst others of
the self-same family have laid 150 in a season. I find
the averaye number of eggs laid by birds of one and
two years old is about 60 per duck,

Darwin says :—“‘ The wild duck lays from five to ten
eggs; the tame one, in the course of the year, from 80 to
100.” But if ducks have not been harassed by being
exhibited, the average number of eggs will be much
higher.

Stock ducks should always be shut up in their house
64

at night, but they should have liberty until it is almost
dark, for it is in the evening that worms, etc., come to the
surface of the ground, and are at once consumed by the
ducks. I arm sure I need not tell anyone acquainted with
the habits of ducks how greedy they are when on their
evening rambles in search of animal food. I have seen my
stock birds come home at dusk scarcely able to waddle and
refuse the very best of corn if offered to them,

Stock ducks on good grass runs require very little hand
feeding, but as it is necessary to keep them shut up until
about eight o’clock in the morning, they should be supplied
with a fair good breakfast of soft food. They may be tried
with a handful of oats, wheat, or barley in the evening. In
many cases this will not. be required—that is when they
have an unlimited grass run.

There are several reasons why stock ducks should be
housed at night ; and, first, it is protection from foxes and
other enemies of the poultry yard ; secondly, because they
glory in stealing away and selecting their nests in any out-
of-the-way or secluded corner; and when allowed pertect
liberty, as many farmers’ ducks are, they will often drop
their eggs into the water when they sink and nothing is
known of their presence until, perhaps, some weeks after-
wards, when having become rotten, they rise to the surface.
Thus scores of duck eggs are lost yearly by careless farmers,
who think it too much trouble to shut their ducks up for
the night.

It should also be borne in mind that stock ducks should
be provided with a good bed of clean, dry straw, for they
often drop their eggs at random all over the place, very
often ignoring all nest accommodation which may have
65

been provided for them, The bedding should be removed,
and shaken out daily, and the house swept out. A good
swill with water now and again will do the house good.
The best material for bedding is decidedly straw, and when
it can be procured at a reasonuble price I would certainly
advise its use. I prefer wheat straw, but barley, rye, or oat
straw will answer the purpose.

When straw cannot be obtained, some other kind of
sweet dry litter should be used, such as bean or pea straw,
coarse hay, bracken, rushes, or dry leaves ; anything which
would necessitate a regular cleaning out in preference to
peat-moss litter. I have tried it for waterfowl, and my
opinion of its use is decidedly against it, for, in consequense
of its being absorbent, it looks cleaner than it really is. It.
has also a tendency to encourage laziness, and I am sure no
poultry man or boy would like to be accused of such a
fault. Therefore, avoid peat-moss litter for ducks.

Jf you wish yeur waterfowl to keep in good health
and condition, sawdust or wood-turnings, or, as they ‘are
sometimes called, “chippings,” are very cheap, and much
preferable to peat-moss, for you can tell when they are
dirty.

Filthiness in houses is the chief cause of many contagious
and deadly diseases, and the use of all material calculated
to harbour filth should be carefully avoided. It does not
follow that fresh bedding is required every day, simply
because I advise its daily removal. If the weather is fine,
throw the straw into the open air to dry. After a while
give it a good shake, and it is then in a fit condition to be
returned to the house for bedding.

‘It the manure and the soiled bedding from waterfowl is.

BE
66 |

made into a tidy little stack, and allowed to heat and rot for
a month or two, it will make capital manure, and will grow
kitchen garden produce to an enormous size.

Stock ducks should always have access to water. It is
their natural element, and they look better when they are
allowed free access to it, and not only this, but they lay
better and their eggs are more fertile.

I would not advise anyone to keep waterfowl unless they
can let them have a sufficient supply of fresh water for a
bath daily. A constan‘ stream or a good pond being prefer-
able to most artificial arrangements.

“INCUBATION.”

 

HIS branch of the business requires the greatest care
and attention on the part of the owner or breeder of
waterfowl.

If you wish to obtain the best prices for your ducklings,
you must put your first eggs down for incubation as soon as
ever your ducks begin tu lay. I prefer large Brahmas,
Cochins, Dorkins, or cross-bred hens for this purpose, to
either ducks or incubators. During the winter and very
early spring I usually sit two hens on the same day, for it
frequently happens that the eggs are not fertile when pro-
duced in very cold weather.

I never give more than nine duck eggs to one hen during
the first three months of the year; this number being quite
as many as any ordinary hen can comfortably cover and
keep thoroughly warm. I usually test the eggs when they
67

have been under the hen seven or eight days, and if I find
many clear, ¢.e., unfertile, I put all the fertile ones under
one hen, and procure another sitting hen, and re-set the one
which has been deprived of her eggs in consequence of the
examination ; by this means I am able to continue sitting
two hens weekly, by the purchase or hire of one additional
hen. I continue this process so long as there is very severe
weather, and I find the system very practically useful.

As the weather becomes warmer, the quantity of eggs
laid will be considerably increased, and with them fertility
greatly augmented. In consequence, sufficient sitting hens
may be difficult to procure. If so, an “Incubator” may be
found not only useful but necessary. Although I frankly
admit that I prefer the use of hens to any incubator, the
‘“Westmeria,” which I am now using, is so easy to work,
and does that work in such an efficient manner, that I have
every confidence in recommending it.

The moisture arrangements are, to my mind, perfect,
This, of course, forms a very important part in hatching
duck, goose, and turkey eggs.

Again, let the eggs be fifty or one hundred in number,
they can be turned within a minute, and when the process
of turning has to be done daily, this is a great consideration,
The temperature is kept at a certain point automatically,
and scarcely varies one degree. Some people may, perhaps,
look at the cost (others are obliged to do so) of an incu-
bator, but, then, it is not, like the clucking hen, to be
purchased afresh every year,

A fifty-egg incubator should form part of the stock-in-
trade of every breeder of waterfowl. They have certain
advantages over hens, for they will hatch thin-shelled eggs,
which the hens would certainly break. Should a sitting hen
68

fall sick, or die on her nest, an incubator is always ready in
case of such accidents. They are also very valuable at the
time of hatching. It sometimes happens that a hen will
crush an egg or two a little before the time is up, and if
there were no incubator at work, the gosling, duckling, or
poult would inevitably be lost, whereas, if you have an incu-
bator at work it is just the thing required and is able to
hatch out those birds which would otherwise be lost.

’ The two “Westmerias ” which I have now working have
paid their cost in nothing else than hatching birds out of
damaged shells. These machines are so well put together,
and-so perfectly packed, to withstand the effects of the
heat, that I think I should be quite safe in saying that they
will last me a considerable time.

An incubator is most useful for testing your first batches
of eggs, in order to prove their fertility, before wasting the
time of hens, or before selling eggs to customers. It some-
times happens that some individual ganders and drakes are
absolutely sterile, and for.that reason breeders ought not to
sell eggs from any particular pen of stock ducks, geese or
turkeys, until such breeder has proved the fertility of such
stock birds.

When duck, goose, or turkey eggs have been in an incu-
bator, or under a hen for seven or eight days, it is quite easy
to judge whether they are fertile or not. The simplest and
best way of testing the eggs is to take them out of the
machine, or from under the hen, and then light a gas jet or
a candle in a dark room, take the egg in your right hand,
and with your two forefingers and thumb hold the egg
before the light, taking hold of it by the small end. Then
place your left hand across the top of the thick end of the
egg, shading the light from your eyes. If the-egg is fertile
69

you will be able to see a clear.space at the thick end of. the
egg, and the lower part will be quite dark. Should the
egg appear quite clear, and almost transparent, you may
depend it is unfertile, and that it would be only a waste of
time to the hen or incubator.

Nests intended for sitting hens with duck, goose or turkey
eggs, should, as far as possible, be made on the ground. The
earth should be hollowed out, not too deep, still it should
be made roomy enough to admit of a good wisp of soft hay.
Hay is much preferable to straw for this purpose, it being
much warmer. My reason for advising the nest to be made
on the ground is, that duck, goose, and turkey eggs require
more moisture during the time of incubation than other
kind of poultry eggs do.

As I do not believe in sprinkling the eggs with water, I
must adopt other means of imparting moisture, which is
very essential to successful hatching of eggs.

If it is not convenient to make the nest on the ground, a
box may be used for the purpose, the bottom of which
should be well covered with grass ‘sods or loose damp earth.
A large pailful is not too much for the purpose. Two pail-
fuls would be preferable, taking care that all the corners are
well filled up with earth, and then made comfortable with
hay.

_ Eggs when under the process of incubation should not
be sprinkled with water. Scores, yes hundreds, of birds
have been killed in the shells by this thoughtless practice.
Nevertheless, moisture must be supplied to the nest or its
surroundings, for, in a state of nature, the sitting duck or
goose would leave her nest early in the morning, when her
plumage would become wetted by the rain or by the dew,
which would be on the grass, or, perchance, she may have
, 70

taken a bath in the pond or stream. In any case her
plumage would be wet on her return to the nest, and,
further, the nest would doubtless be made on the ground in
some nicely shaded situation. Therefore it will be seen
that the eggs of waterfowl in a state of nature are damped
daily by the natural incubator.

I find the best method of supplying moisture to eggs
when under hens, etc., is to take a garden wateringcan with
a rose on, and water all the surroundings of the nest, and
even the nest itself, with water at about 100 degrees, This
should be done at night, when the hens are quietest. Care
should be taken not to disturb them, or you may find a
difficulty in getting them back to the eggs. By this
method moisture is supplied in proper quantities, and at
a proper temperature. The shell and inner membrane
gradually becomes more brittle, and the young ones ate
able to extricate themselves from their prisons without risk
of losing their lives through inability to break through
their prison walls.

If there is sufficient moisture in the ground on which the
nest is made, the heat of the hen’s body will draw moisture
sufficient for all requirements. If the nest is made as
advised, the eggs may be carefully taken out of the nest
whilst the hen is off feeding, and the nest well watered as
above, after which the eggs may be returned to the nest.
This method should be repeated three or four times during
the last fortnight of incubation.

Moisture is one of the most essential requisites for the
successful hatching of waterfowl. Hens should always be
sat at night. They seem to take to the eggs more readily
and quietly than when sat during the daytime.

It may appear strange to some of my readers that I
71

should write on the “Hen” for incubation of ducks, geese,
and turkeys. Asa rule, ducks and geese are not very good
sitters, and worse mothers, especially high-class birds.

My Aylesburies seldom evince a desire to sit, and if they
did, I could not afford to allow them, for I require all the
eggs I can possibly get from them.

Toulouse geese are only very indifferent sitters and
mothers, so much so that I never risk valuable eggs under
them.

There is no doubt that habit has something to do with
this apparently lost quality, and if we fanciers wish to
develop any particular habit or point, we must encourage
our pets to develop the same; but if, on the other hand, we
do not wish our ducks and geese to indulge in their natural
propensity of incubation, and we annually deprive them of
their maternal duty, we may naturally come to the con-
clusion that in course of time our birds will not only
become indifferent sitters and mothers, but that they will
eventually lose all desire for incubation, for the force of
habit is transmitted from one generation to another. I
have not the least doubt that some strains of ducks will at
no distant period lose all desire to sit. Don’t be atraid of
sitting too many nests of duck eggs, for if you sit all the
eggs your three or even six ducks will lay, there will be no
danger of getting too many really first-class ducks.

A “Topper” only comes occasionally. Therefore set all
your eggs, and you will find that there is no necessity for a
separate breeding pen in order to produce a large number of
ducklings for the market. If you set all the eggs your
good stock birds will produce, and the season is at all
favourable, you may naturally expect a good crop of duck-
lings, which will, of course, require some care and judgment
72

‘bestowing on them ; but I will go fully into the care and
treatment of ducklings both for market and exhibition in
the next chapter.

The time required for incubation is twenty-eight days
for ducks and thirty days for geese, but different strains
or families vary considerably in this respect. I have fre-
quently known ducklings hatch on the twenty-sixth day,
whilst others have not appeared until the thirtieth day,
and I have also noticed similar variations in the time of
hatching goose eggs, some goslings appearing on the twenty-
‘eighth day of incubation, others taking as much as four
days longer. Consequently, it is well to be very careful
during the time the young ones are hatching. As a rule,
it will be far better to leave the sitting hen alone until
all are hatched, further, than to remove the shells or any
other objectionable matter there may be in the nests.

Some breeders remove the goslings or ducklings from the
nest as soon as they are hatched, and put them in old hats,
small baskets, etc., and then place them on the hearth or
kitchen fender, and when the whole are hatched place
them under the hen. Such practices and other unnecessary
interferences between the attendant and the sitting hen are
the causes of the death of hundreds of goslings and duck-
lings annually.

It is very much better (at all risks) to leave the newly-
hatched birds under the hen, undisturbed, for at least
twenty-four hours after they are hatched. Nature has
provided for their sustenance for fully this time after they
emerge from the shell. Therefore, the less interference
between the attendant and the sitting hen the better will
it be for all concerned.
73

BREEDING AND REARING DUCKLINGS
FOR EXHIBITION.

|W agemtaar GS for exhibition should be treated in a very .
different manner to those for market purposes, and
the treatment must be varied according to the number kept.

My experience teaches me that it is much easier to rear
a few to a high standard of perfection than it would be to
rear a large number. ‘Therefore, I maintain that the
person who keeps only one variety, concentrating his
capital and energy on that. one variety, is better able to
discover excellencies or faults much sooner than the person
whose energies and capital are divided into many different
sections.

When my ducklings are hatching, I always make it my
business to attend to them personally. I do not remove
the little creatures from their warm, cosy nest. “Not lin-
deed.” Iremove the shelis very carefully, without exciting
the hen if possible, and should any of the shells happen
to be fractured in improper places, I remove all such and
give them a bath in warm water, and as I always keep a
vacancy or two in one of my “.Westmeria Incubators,” I
place any such fractured eggs in it, thus often saving the
lives of those which eventually turn out to be my most
valuable ducklings. If I had no incubator, I should give
these fractured eggs a bath just the same, and, then wrap
them up in a flannel which had been dipped in hot water.
I now place the egg in the most convenient place near
the kitchen fire, keep it reasonably warm, occasionally
74

renewing the hot flannel, and when once the duckling has
quite cleared itself of the shell, I should substitute a warm,
dry flannel until the duckling had regained its strength.
I should then return it to the hen, for 1am fully persuaded
that the nest is the proper place, and that the hen or duck
whose task it has been to sit on the eggs for thirty days
is the proper nurse for ducklings. I do not believe in
taking them from the hen, for I never found either ducks
or geese grow to an extraordinary size which had been
taken away from the hen at an early age.

Some writers tell us that ducklings do not require
brooding. This was astounding information to me, and
although it may be true that ducklings do not take quite
so much shelter under the hen as chickens do, it is also
true that they do require brooding. If the hen is taken
away from them at an early age they never grow very
large, and if a duckling once makes a stand, should droop,
or refuse its food, for a few days, you may mark that bird
off as being of no use for exhibition, and as soon as ever it
is ready for the market, let it go.

Ducklings reared with a view to exhibition must grow
and do well until they are six months old, otherwise they
cannot compete successfully against those bred and reared
by experienced breeders.

Theory is all very well, but the kind of theory which I
have seen advocated recently, concerning the rearing of
ducklings, would, in my opinion, prove most disastrous,
especially for exhibition.

It is a well-known fact that all kinds of domestic ducks
have improved during the last few years, and I would like
to ask, whether this improvement has been brought about
15

by assisting nature or by going directly in opposition to
nature’s rules and laws? If this improvement has been
brought about by those principles which are in opposition
to nature, how is it that these writers and breeders have
not been able to compete successfully with other breeders
and exhibitors who believe in assisting nature’s laws ?

I am strongly in favour of leaving ducklings with the
hen or duck that has hatched them. I find they are
stronger and grow much faster than those which have
been removed, and I would prefer half the number and
have them well nursed in this manner.

I never remove my ducklings from the nest for at least
twelve hours after hatching, and if the whole lot hatched
evenly, that is, about the same time, I should let them
remain in the nest for twenty-four hours. I should make
the nest as flat as possible around the edges, so that if a
duckling should come out it would be able to get back to
the hen without the ‘risk of being starved to death. Of
course I am aware that there are some hens which are
very excitable, and these creatures sometimes trample on
their charge and kill them; but such accidents as these
are often caused by the attendant, who, when he goes to
the nest to examine the eggs or the Ducklings, receives a
sharp peck from the hen in defence of her brood. The
attendant does not use sufficient discretion, but frequently
gets cross with the hen, and sometimes uses her very
roughly, increasing the poor hen’s excitement to such an
extent, that when she is put on to the nest again, she
tramples upon and kills perhaps half of her brood.

If you wish to be successful in this particular part of
rearing Ducklings you must be very patient, and on no
76

account go to look at a sitting hen after you have had a
quarrel with your better half.

I will now suppose that your Ducklings are all hatched,
thoroughly dry and well brooded, and that it is time they
were removed from the nest in which they were hatched,
for fear vermin of various kinds might possibly have
taken up their quarters there.

Remove hen and her ducklings to the place which has,
of course, been prepared for them; and first of all, feed
the hen with her usual food to her entire satisfaction.—
After feeding the hen, it will be quite soon enough to feed
your ducklings. I like a large smooth board to feed on
best of all; I have used an old sack, or a piece of canvas
for this purpose. It is a matter of perfect indifference
what it is, so long as something 7s used to prevent waste
of good food. Throw your egg and bread-crumbs on to
the board or sack, and your ducklings will soon learn the
art of converting one kind of food into another. Continue
the hard-boiled egg, chopped and mixed with twice the
bulk of stale.bread-crumbs Feed about every two hours
for the first week. Let them have a shallow tin filled
with water and a bit of sharp grit put at the bottom. A
bit of green food of some kind should be supplied regularly.
A good grass sod, 15 or 18 inches square, will be very
much appreciated by your ducklings, and the soil will
assist digestion for the first week or two, after which sharp
grit must be supplied.

Almost any kind of greens grown in a garden will
answer the purpose. Lettuce is my favourite vegetable
for ducklings. I grow large quantities every year, sowing
‘about every three weeks. Malta and Cuss make the largest
77

plants. The youngsters are very fond of it, and 1 have
great faith in it kecping them in health and condition It
‘gives a tone to the system, and..acts as a tonic. Savoys, '
cabbages, onions, radish-tops, and even weeds will be
devoured if your ducklings are kept in confinement, All
kinds of vegetables should be chopped up fine with a knife.
or in a mincing bowl, and supplied once or twice daily,
and should be continued until you are prepared to give
your birds perfect liberty. When your.ducklings are a
week old, you may safely dispense with, the egg and bread,
and use some other cheaper food, which should be a cooked
preparation. - I know of no better food than “Spratts
Patent Poultry Meal.” The birds eat it with avidity, and
it seems to grow plenty of bone, which is very essential
for exhibition ducks. The way I prepare this food is a
little more trouble than some people would care to
take. Still I believe iu the old proverbial saying, “That.
if a thing is worth doing at all, it is worth doing well.”

Having procured a bit of coarse flesh meat of some kind
or other, or a few handfuls of “ Prairie Meat Crissel,”
boil it in a saucepan or copper just as occasion may require,’
and when thoroughly boiled, pour broth and meat into
the poultry meal, and only have sufficient meal to leave
the mess very moist. When thoroughly scalded, add
barley meal and thirds, or ground wheat, and don’t forget
a bit of salt and a little bone meal, sufficient to mix the
mess into a nice stiff, crumbly paste.-

The food now being prepared is ready for service to
your ducklings, and as I am dealing with birds intended
for exhibition, [ will endeavour to show my reason for
feeding on boards, sacks, or on the grass, in preference to
78

feeding in troughs, When ducklings are attended to by
a careful and intelligent attendant, whether he be the
owner or a servant, he will take the food in a vessel of
some kind, say a pail, and when he comes to a flock of
ducklings, no matter how large or small, he will not throw
a large quantity of food down at once, but he will take a
handful at a time and throw it broadcast. If the food is
properly mixed there will not be one particle of waste, for
the youngsters will run about in search of the least crumb.
The feeder will of course continue his work by throwing
handful after handful until such time as he thinks the
birds have had sufficient. It occurs to me now, that whilst
you are feeding in this way your ducklings are all the
while on the move, and during the process of feeding you
are able to see if any of them are ailing, and if so, attend
to them at once. Your eye has become acquainted with
every individual bird, and long before the wasters are
ready for killing your mind is made up which are the
wasters and which are the best birds for exhibition. So
that when the time comes to draw out the birds for market
or killing, you have no difficulty in doing so, for your
mind is already made up, and made up in such a manner
that a whole day’s examination would not be equal to it,
and you are able to make your final selection without fear
that you are killing a really good bird, and by being able
to do so you are saving time and money. A little extra
time spent in feeding will very often decide the question
of loss or profit.

Feed with food as above, about five or six times daily
until they are a month old. The sooner you can give them
their first meal. and the later you give them their last is
79

all the bettor, for when we remember that.the food with
which they are fed is partially cooked, and consequently
made easier of digestion, also that the small quantity of
food a young duck is capable of consuming at one time, it
must therefore follow that the contents of the crop must
be exhausted very early in the morning. As our object is
to grow them not only,as fast as possible, but to get them
to an extraordinary size, we must supply “fuel” in order
to keep up the steam, therefore I lay great stress on a feed
early in the morning and late at night,

After feeding with soft food at dusk, shut your duck-
lings up for the night. Leave a large shallow pan, either
made of tin, iron, or earthenware, fill it with water, and
add a bit of good wheat, say a small handful to each duck,
and a bit of gravel, that is after they are three weeks or a
month old. If they do not clear it out the first night or
two, they will soon find out that the wheat is intended
for their use, and show you how much they appreciate
your kindness by clearing out every grain long before
morning. As your ducklings get older you will find that
their appetites increase, and they will be able to eat con-
siderably more at a meal, and as a matter of course you
will give itto them. You will also find that in consequence
of their increased capacity for food they do not require
feeding so often. Three times a day will be sufficient after
they are six weeks old. I do not believe in any kind of
spices or over-stimulating foods for ducklings, except in
very damp, cold weather, when I have used a little of
Swift, Southworth & Co.’s Poultry Spice to great advantage,
It is a preventative of cramp and other diseases caused by
damp ground, etc., after rain. By the time your ducklings ;
80° e

are ten weeks old’ you will no doubt. have selected and
kept a few of the very best, and of course put the wasters
in your pocket, and if not, why not? for it is quite time
all this was done. The selected ones will now require
special attention, for they will soon begin to cast their
first feathers, and should be treated as per my articles on
ducks when moulting,

Good, sound food twice daily will now be sufficient for.
them. Spratt’s Patent Poultry Meal scalded with the
broth, in which some kind of. flesh meat has been boiled, —
or some good “ greaves” ora little “Prairie Meat Crissel”
mixed with ground wheat, barley meal, or thirds, will make
an excellent food for the morning, and a bit of good
English wheat for the evening. Not forgetting the green
food and the grit, also a comfortable house, well bedded |
with clean straw, to sleep in.

Lhave said nothing about water for ducklings for exhibi- .
tion, for only just lately I have read an article by a writer
who distinctly tells us that ducklings will do as well
without water for, ten weeks as they will with it. This
assertion appears to me. most unreasonable and unnatural.
I have bred :a few ducks in my time, perhaps not the
thousands that the writer referred to would have us believe
he has bred. Still I have bred sufficient to be able to say,
fearless of contradiction, that ducks do not thrive or do
better without water than with it. I cannot get over the
fact that water is the natural element for ducks, and if it
is natural for ducks to swim, why should it be unnatural.
for ducklings? Echo answers, Why? I will not dwell.
further on this point, for I feel sure that all lovers of
water-fowls will let.their birds have access to it wherever ;
81

practical, and'if they do not the result will be cramp, liver
disease, death from sunstroke, etc., over which boxes of
pills and tins of powders will have no effect. Ifyou wish
to be successful in breeding and rearing ducklings for
exhibition, try to assist nature by the exercise of your own
knowledge and learning, and do not be misled by anyone
who would advise you to work in direct opposition to
nature’s teachings.

 
REARING AND FEEDING DUCKLINGS
FOR MARKET.

HIS branch of the business has not had my special
attention, and for that reason I do not profess to

 

approach perfection. .

Tam perfectly well aware that it would not pay to treat
ducklings for market in the manner I described in the last
chapter for exhibition purposes, certainly not, If your sole
object in rearing ducklings is for the market, there will be
no necessity for giving high prices for stock birds. Breeders
of exhibition birds have frequently a few rough or taulty
birds, which they are generally open to sell at a nominal
price, and which would answer this purpose admirably.

If my only object in breeding ducks were for con-
sumption, I should never think of breeding from very
large framed parents, but rather than this, I should select my
breeding stock from a good prolific strain, weighing about
or a little over five pounds per bird when in store condition.
From such birds it is easy enough to get ducklings to weigh
four to five pounds each at ten weeks old, and in some dis-
tricts these will realise quite as much money as those weighing
six or seven pounds each. I have often been told, when
asking ten shillings per couple for ducklings of extra-
ordinary size, that the price was very high, for they were
only ducks after all. Therefore, in order to breed and rear
ducklings solely for the market and to a profit, discretion
must be used in the selection of breeding stock as well as in
the rearing of the ducklings. If your breeding stock are of
a prolific strain, and have not been forced to an extraordinary
size, there will not be much fear of sterile eggs, especially if
83

they have a fair good run, and the’ progeny asa rule are
very hardy, having sound constitutions to enable them to
withstand the strain of forcing and feeding, and being kept
from the water for nine or ten weeks, at which time they are
or ought to be quite fat and in the very pink of condition
for killing, and should be disposed of forthwith.

My treatment for ducklings for market would be just the
same as for exhibition for the first five or six days, but after
that it would be entirely different, for the growth of immense
bone and a sound constitution are of little or no consequence.
All we require is a nice plump duckling fit to kill at nine or
ten weeks old, sooner if possible, and it only remains for me
to show how to rear and feed a duckling up to this said point
with as little expense as possible. If I had a flock of duck-
lings destined for killing, I should not use any kind of fancy
foods nor any kind of pills or powders. These ingredients
are of no earthly use in the preparation of ducks for the
market. All they require is judicious care and feeding.
Care must be taken to keep them clean, warm, quiet, and
comfortable, and as regularity is the soul of business, so it
is in the preparation of ducklings for the market. I should
feed on bran scalded with the broth in which some very
coarse cheap offal had been boiled, giving offal and all. Not
that there is anything very feeding or fattening in either of
the above, but the bran keeps the bowels in order for the
time required, and the offal tempts the appetite and assists
the digestion of the ground oats, ground wheat, harley,
buckwheat, or Indian meal, which are all good for feeding
ducklings and preparing them for an early market. Any
of these meals may be used with advantage, mixed with
the scalded bran into a nice stiff crumbly paste, and given to
your ducklings as often as appetite may require. The times
84

for feeding will be about the same as laid down for exhibi-
tion. Whole grain should not be used for this purpose.
A plentiful supply of grit should always be within their
reach, and a reasonable allowance of water to drink both
before and after feeding. It seems to me a cruel thing to
deprive a duck of a drink of water until it has gorged itself
with food. I think digestion would be assisted if a drink of
water were allowed both before and after a good meal. As
for a swim, well, I am fully convinced that a good wash and
a swim for half an hour or an hour daily is very beneficial
to ducklings whilst in course of preparation for market.
Only think how much more comfortable they must be when
returned to a good bed of clean dry straw after a bath and a
good feed. No one will ever convince me that ducks will do
better, nor even as well, without water as with it. No, not
even for killing.

Ducklings for the market can be and are bred in thousands
by experienced breeders, who make it their sole business, and
I know many of these breeders personally who can and do
make a very good living in England, and save money, by
breeding and rearing ducks for killing, and there is no
reason why our British farmers should not make considerable
additions to their yearly income by breeding and rearing
ducks for the market.

When we take into consideration the enormous quantity
of ducks which are yearly imported into our markets by
foreigners, I think I am justified in saying that there is not
much fear of our markets becoming glutted with home pro-
ductions, for asa rule English people are able to disccrn the
difference between home and foreign productions, even in
the shape of articles of food, and a good home-fed duckling
is always in demand at a fair good price; at least that is my
85

experience. I have never any difficulty in disposing of my
wasters, when killed and dressed, at a very good price, and
if I could not do better by keeping ducks for exhibition, I
have sufficient confidence to believe that I could make a fair
good living by breeding and rearing ducklings for the
market.

Se
METHOD OF KILLING.

 

As ducks are to be killed for the table or market, it may
be as well to point out the most merciful way of taking their
lives, a point on which few concern themselves.

Ducks should not be bled to death like geese, as from the
loss of all the blood the flesh becomes too dry and insipid.

The most merciful way, and also the quickest if skilfully
managed, is to take hold of the legs and flight feathers with
the right hand, and the head with the left hand, place the
neck over your left thigh, and with a sudden jerk the neck
becomes dislocated, the spinal cord ruptured, and the bird is
at once made void of the sense of feeling. The same effect
may also be produced by a sudden twist.

Another plan is to take a stick in the right hand, hold up
the bird by the legs with the left hand, and strike the bird
a smart blow at the back of the neck, about the second or
third joint from the head. Death follows instantly; but the
breaking of the neck with a momentary jerk, as already
described, is certainly the quickest method, consequently the
most merciful.

We keep these creatures for our own pleasure and profit,
and kill them for our use, but even in this our last and often
painful duty we should treat them with mercy.
86

HOW TO TREAT DUCKS WHEN
MOULTING.

 

S a rule, ducks begin moulting in July, and are
usually through the moult about September. The
earlier this change takes place the better. The weather
being more favourable to the birds, gives them more time
to recover their strength, and enables them to commence
laying earlier in the season. Moulting is a very critical
time even for ducks, and many valuable specimens are
lost during this course of nature.

The general condition of the system being considerably
reduced, it is therefore necessary to assist nature, if you
wish your ducks to have an early and successful moult,
by attending to their comforts internally and externally.
They should be kept warm and dry. Their house should
be cleaned out daily, and a good bed of clean straw put
down for them to lie on. Warmth; generous diet, and
cleanliness, together with an increase of animal food or
other stimulants, will have the desired effect.
87

Warmth may be secured in many ways. See that there
are no draughts in the house, that it is watertight and
kept clean and dry inside. Increase the supply of meat,
and use that kind of meal most likely to give heat to the
body—viz., oatmeal, barley meal, or buckwheat meal,
mixed with Spratts Patent Poultry Mcal scalded with
boiling water. Now is the time for the use of a little
spice of some kind or other occasionally. I am only a
very poor doctor, and am not an advocate either of spice
or quack medicines. To prevent is better than to cure.
Therefore see that your ducks are warmly and comfortably
housed, and supply them with good sound food well
cooked. See that their food and water dishes are regularly
cleaned and a good supply of gravel within their reach.
If you do this you will not be troubled with many sick
birds, and the vendors of quack nostrums will not make
money out of you, especially for medicines for moulting
ducks.

PREPARING AND KEEPING DUCKS IN
CONDITION FOR EXHIBITION.

LTHOUGH a recent writer tells us that ducks require
less preparation for exhibition than any other class
of poultry, my experience has been of a very different
88

character to this. It may safely be said that a really first-
class pen of young ducks, about six or seven moaths old,
require very little or no preparation for the show pen, for
they will just be in fine plumage. If Aylesburies the bills
will be perfection at this age. The question now arises
how are we to preserve these beautiful flesh-coloured bills,
and the beautiful bloom and condition of the plumage ?

Fine condition goes a very long way in a show pen,
and hides many little imperfections, A really good young
duck in perfect health and condition only requires placing
in a training pen for an hour or two daily for a week
previous to the show at which you intend exhibiting it.
Some people think it is a waste of time to put ducks into 1
training pen previous to sending them to an exhibition, and
perhaps it would be so in the case of Pekins, for they
cannot stand too erect in their pens. With Aylesburies,
Rouens, and Cayugas, it is very different, high carriage of
their bodies being very objectionable.

Birds should be accustomed to the show pen before
being sent to an exhibition, otherwise, they will not
show themselves to advantage. They should be trained to
eat grain of some kind when in their pens at home, so
that they will feed without trouble at the show, and
not require cramming. If you allow the old ducks per-
fect liberty, and they are continually exposed to all kinds
of weather, you cannot expect them to remain in good
show form, consequently it is much better to allow stock
birds to stay at home until they have moulted. To keep
89

ducks in show-form it is necessary to use some precaution
to keep them very clean both in the house and run. It is
impossible to do this during the breeding season. There-
fore, if you wish to breed from your exhibition ducks you
must be prepared to sacrifice them as exhibition specimens
for the season, for if you allow them perfect freedom they
cannot be expected to recover until they have moulted.

During the time this change is being effected is the
time when you may assist them to that state of perfection
in which they appeared at their first show. This can be
done by good feeding and housing. The food should now
be of a better quality, giving a little fat or linseed in their
food two or three times weekly during the moult. Some
useful hints will be found in the chapter on “‘ The Treat-
ment of Ducks when Moulting.”

If your ducks have commenced moulting and it is about
the middle of July, I would advise you to assist their
progress during this change, in order to be able to compete
successfully with others, and to do so the first part of the
business is to examine the house and see that it is
thoroughly clean and dry underfoot. A good coating of
lime-wash, with a little carbolic acid or naphtha added,
will clear the place of insect-vermin inside, and a coat of
tar outside will make it watertight and more suitable to
get your birds in condition for exhibition, they will rest
and do all the better afterwards. Your house, having
undergone a thorough cleaning inside and out, is now
ready for the reception of your ducks which are to be
taken up for repairs. They have had perfect liberty for
say six months. Their feathers are hard and brittle, in
fact they are worn out, and nature has ordained that ducks
90

should have a change of feathers annually. The outer
skin of the bill also changes with the plumage, and in
order that these new feathers and skin may be grown to a
high state of perfection, the birds on which they are
grown must be well nourished and comfortably housed,
aud when such feathers, etc., are grown to perfection, they
must be preserved in that state by artificial means. If
they are allowed perfect liberty during their moult, and
more particularly immediately after their moult, they will
very soon damage their plumage, and their bills will very
soon assume a gross appearance. It is therefore necessary
to keep them in partial confinement during and after
moulting. They should be let out for an hour or two
daily to have a wash and a swim, and also to remain in
the open air for a reasonable time so that the sap may be
dried out of the new feathers, which in an Aylesbury
will very often be yellowish during moulting, in which
case they must have access to the water and be exposed
to the air.

During the time your ducks are having their bath and
exercise, clean the house thoroughly and give a good bed
of fresh, clean straw. Should their bills be too high in
colour (yellowish), or if any horny substance has grown
on the sides of the upper mandible, take a sharp penknife
and carefully remove all objectionable superficial matter
which may have accumulated during the breeding season.
Care must be taken not to touch the inner membrane, and
on no account draw blood, for if you do it will cause the
birds great pain, and it might do serious injury, or even
cause death, therefore I would advise all beginners to be
careful and not make tvo free with the knife in this matter,
91

but rather use a bit of the finest sandpaper. If you just
take the rough off with your knife, and then rub gently
with the sandpaper, you will soon be able to discern when
it is time to stop. This operation, judiciously performed,
gives nature assistance in the performance of this change
of skin on the bill, which is quite as important as that of
the plumage. You will find that this change requires time.
After taking off all surplus matter, you may put a quantity
of clean gravel into a large bowl, five or six inches deep,
fill up with water, and put it into your ducks’ houses, and
instead of feeding your ducks in the usual way in the
afternoons, give them a few handfuls of wheat, and throw
it into the bowl in which you have already put gravel and
water. Your birds will, as a matter of course, root about
in the bowl for the wheat, and whilst doing so they are
scouring and bleaching their bills in a much better fashion
than you could do so for them.

My remarks on the superficial growth of matter on
ducks’ bills, and the removal thereof, are equally applicable
to Aylesburies, Rouens, Pekins, and Cayugas, and should
have special attention when moulting.

The plumage of all varieties of domestic ducks is no
doubt preserved and the colour brightened by partial
confinement, especially during a hot summer-day, when
the sun would tan the bills of Aylesburies and burn the
bloom off the plumage of any kind of ducks, no matter
what colour. If you wish to keep your ducks in condition
for exhibition, you must observe cleanliness in every
particular, both in the house and outside. Feed with
English corn, there is no best, although I prefer wheat;
but avoid Indian corn, cspecially for Aylesburies. I have
92

no doubt—in fact I’m sure—Indian corn would improve
the colour of Pekins. Still I do not like it as a food for
_either English cattle or birds, as it contains too much
yellow fat. The use of Indian corn has caused the prema-
ture death of many a valuable specimen. Whilst you are
keeping your pets in prison for your own personal pleasure
and profit, don’t forget that you have so confined them
and that they are depending on you for their subsistence.
Think of the absolute necessity of the grit in the water,
the clean straw, and the bit of green stuff. I grow a large
quantity of Malta and Coss lettuce for my ducks, and they
seem to enjoy it very much, in fact no kind of green food
seems to come wrong to them. It is really marvellous
what can be done in the improvement of condition by
careful and judicious treatment, without overfeeding or
impairing the system. Many would-be fanciers have often
told me that they could do with ducks, but they find a
difficulty in keeping their bills the proper colour, especially
the Aylesburies. JI have known people assert that they
really believed it was an impossibility to keep them right
for a month after they left Aylesbury. This is simply
nonsense. There is certainly a bit of art in showing an
old duck with a very fine bill, but there is little or no art
in exhibiting a young one in perfect colour and condition.
As for there being anything in the soil in and around
Aylesbury which has an influence on either the colour of
the bill or plumage is altogether untrue and misleading.
I have bred, reared, and exhibited Aylesbury ducks, and
sometimes shown them in creditable condition, and the
ground over which they have run is heavy clay-soil, there
is not one particle of chalk in it that I am aware of If
93

you get your stock and your eggs from brecders' who keep
only one pure variety and attend to my instructions in
this chapter, you will find that there is not much difficulty
in keeping even the white Aylesbury duck ,in perfect:
health and condition.

I think I have said sufficient about getting birds up to
show form, unless I introduce the scissors and tweezers
for the benefit of young fanciers who may be tempted to
indulge in a bit of

TRIMMING.

Perhaps they will be as well left in the workbox, for fear
some new beginner should be too bold and try his hand
before he has made himself sufficiently well acquainted
with every shade and shape of all the required points
necessary in a Rouen or any other variety subject to freaks
which do not meet with the approval of their owners. I
do not know exactly how they are done myself, but this
I do know; I have seen a Rouen drake with a broad white
ring round his neck at one show, and at another show very
shortly afterwards I have seen the self-same drake on the
scene with a beautiful narrow white ring, just the thing
the doctor ordered. A few white or rusty feathers also
have a most accommodating habit of moulting out before
the rest of the plumage. I once knew a really first-class
duck of this variety which up to two years of age was
very bad to beat. Now when this duck moulted in her
third year, she thought she would dress rather different
from the rest of her sisters. So she came out with a
charming white ring, whivh completely encircled her neck.
The owner, an old hand, scarcely fell in with the old lady's
taste. So he altered it—how J do not know, but the next
94

time J saw her the white ring had disappeared and her
neck one uniform colour.

Two flagrant cases of trimming were discovered at one
of our leading shows. It frequently happens that a Rouen
drake will grow more or less white feathers just at the
extremity of his armour-chain, almost forming a white
line between the chain or grey colour, which really ought
to run close up to the velvet-black that covers the lower
extremity of the body. It appears that some of these
objectionable white feathers grew in this particular part
of the plumage of two drakes, and the breeder. seeing that
they were very good in all other points, and finding that
he could not win with them at a small agricultural show,
decided to remove the white feathers, which he did very
clumsily by breaking them off, leaving the small quills
about a quarter of an inch long, also leaving a gap in the
plumage just as though it had been struck with a whip-
lash. One of the best judges failed to discover the fraud,
and awarded first and second prizes to the very drakes
referred to. Now it happened that a new beginner fell
in love with the first prize drake, and claimed him at
something between £14 and £20, paid his money, got his
receipt, and in less than ten minutes after doing this was
advised not to enter him for a coming show, for if he did
he would certainly be disqualified.

This is what I call hard lines for new beginners. And
if judges and committees will not act consistently and
disqualify all cases of trimming, they are neither working
to the interests of the breeder, exhibitors, or the exhibition
at which such trimmed specimens may be exhibited.
95

EXHIBITING.

tL HAMPERS.—-TI have frequently seen ducks
4 scent to shows in hampers which were a disgrace to the
owner. A good hamper is best and cheapest. I like to
travel my ducks in a large hamper. This hamper is 48 by
24 inches and 18 inches deep. In this I take four single
ducks, and as it is divided with canvas into four compart-
ments the birds are kept much cleaner than they would be
if put altogether.

A closed wicker hamper about two feet in diameter and 18
inches deep is manufactured in Aylesbury; this is a very
useful one. Many exhibitors often complain that their
hampers have been cut open at shows. If exhibitors would
only send their birds in proper hampers and have the lids to
fasten with a strong little strap, they would have less to
complain of.

Instead of sending their birds in proper baskets which
may be easily opened, many send them in old tumbled-down
things scarcely able to keep canvas and willows together.
Then they take a packing needle and sew the lid or top
canvas down, so that when the pen-men want to pen the birds
they have no other alternative but to cut the strings, after
which the blessed old basket is pushed under the table and
very likely squashed flat.

Then comes the packing time. The man comes across this
old rickety basket scarcely fit for firewood. It is thrown
aside until he gets all the respectable ones out of the way,
96

and then he will see what he can do with the ruins. He
sews it up and ties it together the best way he can, still it is
only a wreck, although it has been more troublesome than
twenty good ones.

Whatever kind of hampers you use, let them be light,
consistent with strength. Let your fastener be a strap, and
have them well lined and a pocket for prize cards if you wish
to have them in good condition.

TRANSIT.—If your ducks are to be successful in the
exhibition pen, they must be shown to the best advantage.
Your birds may look exceedingly well before they are des-
patched, but by the time they arrive at the show they may,
and very often do, look quite different. They have very
likely had a long journey, and probably a rough one.

There are some parcel porters quite as careful as an
exhibitor would be himself, and there are others who handle
your birds in such a rough, heartless manner, that I am often
surprised they get to the show alive.

No wonder we hear so many complaints about birds being
damaged. When at exhibitions I have seen them piled up
on a hand-cart three or four in height. The porter takes
hold of the cart, runs along the platform, the baskets being
piled up too high come in contact with a board or something
overhead which we see on platforms of most stations. Down
comes one or more of the hampers bang on the platform.
No one knows or cares whether the birds are damaged or
not. Away they go perhaps into the parcel office to wait for
the next van, which may be one of the ordinary parcel vans.

‘These parcel vans are all right for a lot of small hampers,
such as bantams, pigeons, and rabbits, but they are really too
small for the conveyance of large poultry baskets, This
97

being the only vehicle to hand, and as the hampers must be
in the show by a fixed time, there is no other alternative.
The parcel van is loaded, a few large hampers very soon fill

a

the body. “Come on,” says the driver, “let me have some
on the top.” Large baskets are lifted up, sometimes by two
men, oftene> by one, who will take hold of one of them by
one end and half throw it up to the top of the van. Not
very long since I had taken great pains to pack a large
hamper of fowls belonging to Mr. Hartley, of Morley. I
knew there was about forty pounds-worth of birds in that
hamper, so I sent it by two men to the door of the exhibition,
being anxious to get it away so that the owner might have it
by first train next day. Having occasion to go to the door
myself, I just got there in time to see a man with this hamper,
end uppermost, in the act of pushing it on the top of one of
these small parcel vans.

I scarcely need tell you that my melodious voice was soon
heard denouncing the rough usage these poor birds were
subjected to. It is my opinion there is more damage done
to show birds by the rough usage of porters and carters,
when loading and unloading at stations and shows, than all
other accidents put together. There is not sufficient care
taken by these men. Railway companies are teginning to
see that it is to their advantage to make more provision for
exhibitors and their stock, and those of us who are in the
habit of visiting many of the largest shows have no cause to
complain of the acccmmodation provided for us by most
companies. A real fancier is always anxious to see his birds
safely in the show, also to see how they compare with other
exhibits, often a bit anxious to see the prize cards up, and
then very anxious to see his birds safe home again. Exhibitors
ean do all this by going to the shows themselves. Take your

9
98
birds with you and bring them back if at all practicable. If
your ducks are worth exhibiting at all they are worth
showing well.

We will now suppose they have arrived at the exhibition,
cither one way or the other, and my advice is, to the new
beginner, ‘Go to those shows within easy reach.” Don’t
rush your birds indiscriminately all over the country unac-
companied. If you intend showing at the Crystal Palace,
Dairy, Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool, etc., keep a pen
or two specially for these shows. Don’t show them anywhere
till then. By this time your ducks will be at their very best,
and the greater will be your chance of winning.

PENNING.—Here we are again on the field at a summer
show. Birds at shows have travelled some distance either
by road or rail. Perhaps they were put in their basket last
night. The exhibition pen is one of the ordinary wire pens,
24 by 24 ins., and 27 ins. high, placed on bare boards, not
even a bit of canvas thrown over the pens to shield your birds
from the burning sun or, on the other hand, a pouring rain.
The pens are arranged in single tier in the open air. You
have taken your birds to this show, and of course you took
with you a bit of waterproof, a spare horse-rug, or anything
which you knew would protect your birds from the inclem-
ency of the weather. Having made your pen comfortable,
by putting a cover on the top and a nice bed of hay or straw
in the bottom, open your basket and just see that your ducks
are clean. If their bills or legs are dirty, take a small sponge
and wash them. A bit of good wheat will be very acceptable.
If you put two or three handfuls in the water-tin your ducks
will look all the better. Now shut the pen door, get out of
the way of the judge, and wait patiently for the awards. If
you are fairly beaten, or otherwise, don’t get excited, but
99

coolly reckon the matter up and find out, if defeated, the
reason why. Then go in for the remedy, which in nine cases
out of ten will be better birds.

 

CRAMMING.

I have said nothing about the objectionable practice of
cramming ducks at exhibitions. I could relate several very
amusing incidents which have occurred in this most important
(to some people) finishing touch. I remember there was a
resolution passed at a council meeting in connection with

-one of our largest winter shows, that cramming should, if
possible, be put down. It was subsequently decided to have
the ducks in the place of exhibition a whole day prior to
judging. After all these precautions, what do you think
happened on the day of judgment? Why one of the Rouen
drakes fell sick.

This was reported in the office by the attendant, who by
the way has been the principal attendant at this show for
many years. A little later on, the same attendant reported,
drake, pen No. so-and-so, ‘dead.’ Another report, duck,
pen No. so-and-so, “ ill,” which also belonged to the same
exhibitor, and yet another report, duck, pen No. so-and-so,
“dead.”” Would you think it possible that this very drake
and duck were the property of the person who was so anxious
to put a stop to cramming? I cannot say for certain that
these two birds had been crammed, but it was generally
believed they had. There is one fact well known to a few
old fanciers, that these ducks actually vomited nearly two
pounds of raw beef. Some said it was horseflesh. This is
scarcely the way to put cramming down. I think I could
suggest a much better way, which would be fair to all. Iam
now speaking of duck-exhibiting at first-class shows, such as
100

the Dairy, Palace, Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool, ete.
Ducks, like Carriers, Barbs, and Trumpeters, should be pro-
vided with two separate cans, one for food and the other for
water. When I have anything to do with a show, I will
endeavour to carry out this suggestion. Ducks ought not to
be fed with soft food before judging. We all know what
dirty customers they are. If some wheat were put into one
of these cups, and water in the other, birds will be able to
feed well without making themselves so very dirty. If this
plan were adopted, many fanciers would never try to cram.
I remember one of our oldest and best exhibitors doing a
very smart thing, in the shape of cramming, not very long
ago at the Crystal Palace.

’The doors were opened at twelve o’clock. Those duck
exhibitors who I suppose had been at the game before were
prepared with paste, made into suitable pellets for cramming,
when another exhibitor, who never dreamt of this practice
being resorted to, especially at the Crystal Palace, saw some
of the “duckers” down on their knees cramming away at
their ducks as if their lives depended on it, he therefore
thought it was about time he made a move. He had no
paste, could neither buy, beg, borrow, nor steal. What did
he do think you? He went down to the grill room just by
the ‘* Hole in the Wall” (you know, some of you), and pro-
cured two lbs. of raw sausages, these he shared amongst his
six ducks, and some people say they looked all the better for
the sausages. I thought so too. This is not all that happened
that day. One exhibitor, in his anxiety to cram, got hold of
a drake that. was not his own, crammed him fairly well, and
returned him to his pen. This drake won the first prize, and
the drake which belonged to the crammer did not get a card.
Of course, many will say that this is not telling us how to
101

prevent cramming. The only way to prevent such abomin-
able practices is for one exhibitor to have a good feeling
towards another, and have a general understanding that this
disgusting practice shall not be indulged in or tolerated.
There is a difference between cramming a bird to suffocation
and just giving him four or five pellets to keep him in con-
dition. Many young birds will not eat at exhibitions, then
it is sometimes necessary to give them a little food in this
way. Ducks which have been subjected to cramming are of
little or no use for stock purposes. “ Dor’t cram if your
birds will eat.”

THE QUESTION OF PROFIT,

FIRST YEAR:

 

HIS is an item about which there are a variety of opinions.
However, in this case I am not going to attempt to show
something unreasonable. I have no desire to mislead or
deceive anyone, having no personal benefit to gain thereby.
I shall not under-rate the cost of stock, or be foolish enough
to say I can keep a duck for a penny a week; neither will I
over-estimate the value of your produce for the sake of
showing a large profit. I will simply show what has actually
been done and what can be repeated without a shadow of a
doubt. I do not say that it would be wise on the part of a
beginner to plunge headlong into duck breeding to try to
make £50 a year straight off the mark. By no means. He
may already have a fair knowledge of ducks, and also have
my figures to work by; still, before he can make £50 a year,
it is necessary he should serve a short apprenticeship. In
102

showing how to begin, ‘you will observe I start with one
pen of stock-birds. In my article on breeding, you would
no doubt notice that I had only one drake and three
ducks, in which I said we ought to get sixty eggs from
each duck, in all 180 This is a very moderate calcula-
tion. Some ducks will lay almost twice that number;
others will scarcely got up to sixty. However, mine have
averaged about sixty each for the last four years, that is
reckoning old and young. From 180 eggs we ought to get
150 ducklings from stock-birds which are not exhibited.
I will endeavour to show the beginner what profit he
ought to make by breeding from this one pen of ducks
during the first year of his apprenticeship. First of all
I will take the cost of his house and stock :
Duck-house ... “... ae pe ae i 6 .
One Drake and three Ducks, 20s. each ... 4.0 0

Then comes the question of keep. I allow 24d. per
week for each duck; this includes straw for bedding.
This allowance is quite sufficient to keep large ducks in
good health and condition. We have four stock-ducks
which require feeding for fifty-two weeks, allowing that
we begin any time this summer. Four ducks at 24d. per
week each for fifty-two weeks will cost £2 3s.4d. Then
assuming we have 150 ducklings (certainly not al] at once),
some of them will be killed before the others make their
appearance, and in order that there may be no mistake, 1
will calculate what will be the cost of feeding the whole
150 up to nine weeks old. These I allow the same amount
per week as the stock-ducks, for although they eat very
little the first month, they have a way of taking kindly
to their food at about five weeks old, and don’t they put
103

it out of sight quickly for the next three or four weeks!
that is if they have the chance, and it is best and cheapest
to let them have it to their hearts’ content. Don’t think
for a moment that I expect you to rear the whole of the
150. There will. or I am much mistaken, be some casual-
ties for which I will afterwards make an allowance. The
cost of keeping 150 ducklings from birth up to nine weeks
old at 24d. per week each will be £14 1s. 3d. I will now
divide 150 ducklings into packs of ten as suggested in a
former article. Ten will go into 150 fifteen times. Now
out of each lot of ten I will send eight to market, which
will average 3s. 6d. each, and if you are only in the market
early enough in the spring the average will be very much
higher. It is now the 12th of April, and I have not sold
a duckling for less than 5s., and don’t intend doing so for
another month. This of course is for market. There will
be no necessity for selling any of your ducklings for less
than 3s. each even at the end of the season, for, being bred
from good stock and well fed, they are very different
articles of food to the little, half-starved-looking things
we so often see in our markets and in our fish and poultry
shops.

Superior ducklings will always command good prices.
Here we have fifteen times eight—viz., 120 sold for market
at 3s. 6d. each = £21. I will now make an allowance for
casualties. Allowing one duckling out of every ten has
either sickened or met with some accident or another
which has put an end to its existence. This will be
fifteen, for which I get no return whatever. Then J have
fifteen selected ones, which are the best birds out of each
pack. Fifteen such birds as these when about six months
104

old, if in practical hands, would realise a good round sum ;
but as they are in the hands of a beginner, I must not
estimate them at too high a figure. I will therefore value
them at the price as the same vwner’s stock-birds, which
is £1 each, so that fifteen selected birds are worth £15.
Of course these fifteen ducklings have been kept from
nine weeks old up to twenty-six weeks I have thercfore
to add seventeen weeks’ keep to the nine weeks already
charged for at 24d. per week, which will be £2 138. 14d.

Then there is the breeding stuck which, if not sold off at
the end of the first year, must be allowed for as wear and
tear. If we allow twenty-five per cent. for depreciation
of stock, and use the breeders for three years, and then
sell them off for killing, we should not be very far on
the wrong side.’ We have now to make some allowance
for sitting hens or the use of an incubator. If we say
£1 3s, 24d. it will be fairly good pay for the use of twenty-
two “cluckers” or an incubator.

1 have said nothing about rent of houses and runs.
The heap of rich manure you will have at the end of the
season, together with the bagsful of fine feathers, will pay
for the use of any outbuilding you may have occupied
with your youngsters; or if you had to put up a rough
shed, the feathers and manure will pay good interest on
the outlay. The stock-birds will do more good than harm
on your croft, garden, or pasture.

Now as to the question of labour. This has no place in
the expenses, for most small farmers, gardeners, cottagers,
or small fanciers, have either sufficient spare time them-
selves, or have children who can do this kind of work
without interfering with anything els¢, and a pursuit of
105

this kind often keeps a man with little to do out of worse
mischief, and at the end of the year puts something in his
pocket for doing so. We will now have a look at figures
and sce how the expenses and income tally for one year.

 

 

 

EXPENSES,
8
Feeding 4 breeding ducks for 52 weeks at eae
per week each es 2
Feeding 150 ducklings for 9 weeks at 2hd. per
week each... 14 1 38
Feeding 15 ducklings from 9 weeks to 26
weeks at 24d. -. 2138 WY
Depreciation of breeding stock 25 per cent.
on £4 ... ee 6 ts wa I OO
Use of sitting hens or incubator oe ve il 2 38
Total i -. £21 0 0
INCOME.
120 ducklings for market sold at 3/Aheach ... 21 0 0
16 ducklings for exhibition or ee: at
20/- each sta i 15 0 0
15 casualties te sib ve a w 0 0 0
Totalincome ... -. £36 0 0
Total expenses ... -. 21 0 0

Nett profit ...£15 0 0

 

 

/

SECOND YEAR.

 

Havine finished your first year’s apprenticeship with a
nett profit of £15, you must now decide on your course
of action for the second year’s work. It will not be
necessary to keep three times the quantity of breeding
stock in order to make three times the amount of money
you made last year, bat you must certainly increase your
stock.

I should not advise you to keep more than two pens
during your second year. The way tu start your second
106

pen is to select three of the very best ducks out of the
fifteen you have bred, and which to you are really worth
more money than you would perhaps be able to sell them
for. Your only extra expense will be a new house and
another drake. Don’t buy a new stock-drake until you
have visited one or two shows, at which you may see one
in the selling class (a young one, mind). Satisfy yourself
that he is not related to your original stock, and also that
he is quite as good, or even better, than the best drake
you have bred. It would be of great assistance to you if
you made just one entry in each class, viz., one drake in
his class, and one duck in her class. You would then be
able to compare your birds side by side with those of
experienced breeders. Theory is all right and indispens-
able, and, when assisted by practical experience, often
attains the desired goal. By exhibiting your birds you
advertise them in such a manner that no other mode of
advertisement is equal to. Old exhibitors see them.

These gentlemen are always open to buy a really good
one of any kind, and will not grudge to give a good price.
In addition to the old exhibitor, we have the general
public, some of whom have quite as keen an eye fora
“topper” as the oldest and best breeder. If you do not
meet with a drake at the show, you will be able to form
some idea of other breeders’ stock by the birds they are
showing, and you will not have much difficulty in deciding
where to go to look for one, or who to write to. If you
write for a bird, have him sent on approval, and once
more, ‘‘be sure he is a young one.” Keep your eye on
the marking ring.’ The end of November is quite late
enough to mate up your stock-birds. By this time you
107

will have bought a drake, and, of course, put him to your
three young ducks. You will now proceed with your
two pens of breeders the same way as last year, setting
all the hens as directed. If broody hens are bad to get,
which is often the case in winter and early spring, the
next best thing to do is to invest in an incubator. As 1
said before, the “ Westmeria” is my favourite; it is the
safest and best machine I have ever come in contact with.

Suppose your success in breeding is equal to last year,
your eye is better trained to enable you to be more
accurate in your selection of the best birds, and if your
selection of stock-birds has been a judicious one, it will
not be unreasonable to expect two good birds out of every
ten from your second pen of ducks. I will now see what
profit is derived from your No. 2 pen :—~

EXPENSES. &

Feeding 4 stock ducks for 52 weeks at 2}d. per week each. 2
Feeding 150 ducklings for 9 weeks at 24d. per week each, 14
Feeding 30 ducklings from 9 weeks to 26 weeks at 23d... 5
Depreciation of breeding stock. 25 per cent. on £5 (this

is allowing you gave £2 for your new stock drake)... 1

a

arf onat arw 2
aleod warm

Use of sitting hens, or wear and tear of an incubator...... 1
Allow for entry fees and expenses at two ShOWS ......-1. 4
EXpenses......0e0.00+--£28

INCOME.

105 ducklings sent to market, at 3s. 6d. each.........:ss0 18 7 6
30 ducklings for exhibition or stock purposes, at 20s.each. 30 0 0
15 CasValtied. .....-ceseececcvccerscescacsareeseeteerassersestenrcosenses O 0 0

Income ... £48 7 6

 

Expenses ...

Profit......€20 0 0
The result from No. 1 pen, same as last year .. .........60 15 0 0

Profit for the year...£35 0 0

 

 
108

THIRD YEAR.

Having served two years as an apprentice, I will now
ask you to commence work as a fully-fledged journeyman.
First of all clear out your first pen of breeding ducks,
which at two years old should be good enough to sell at
10s. each, and with the money you get for these purchase
another drake, and put this to three of the very best
ducks you bred last year. Having done so, you have now
two really first-class breeding pens, and as your six ducks
are the cream of three hundred, and mated with two drakes
purchased from two of the best breeders, proceed as usual
throughout the next season, aud if you have succeeded in
accomplishing the not-tvo-difficult task I have set you
during the last two years, you will make £50 profit this
year, and make this sum easily. If you are successful as
an exhibitor, I shall not be going too far if I say £20
over this sum.

Personal attention, judicious selection, and the early
despatch of wasters will carry you to the top of the tree
this season if you only follow my instructions. The cause
of so many failures is the lack of personal attention, and
bad judgment. Bring to bear a little common-sense, and
don’t be disheartened by a few disappointments either in
breeding or exhibiting. Give a long pull and a strong
pull. Be thoroughly determined tv accomplish your
object, and then you will succeed.

I will not trouble you further with instructions, but
proceed to show how TI can make £50 a year by keeping
and breeding ducks I rear annually as near 300 duck-
lings as porsible, I kill all wasters as soon as ever they
109

are fit, and I keep the selected ones either for exhibition,
stock purposes, or for sale. If I had 300 ducklings this
season, bred as I have advised others to breed, I should
kill for market about two-thirds of the 300, which would
leave me 100, barring accidents, which would realise a
fairly good sum, perhaps more than the new beginner
would be able to obtain. Of course J should not sell the
whole lot, but reserve about six for my own use, viz., stock
and exhibition birds. These would not be six of the
worst. No, not likely!

This is the way I make £50 a year by breeding ducks,
saying nothing at all about keeping a larger breeding
stock from which eggs are sold, which, by the way, some-
times add considerably to the income of a duck-breeder.
Neither have ] said anything about the profit to be derived
from exhibiting, a subject on which I could give a fairly
good account.

Now after all this exhibition of my own skill as a duck-
breeder, it will still be necessary for me to show by figures
how it is possible for a new beginner to make £50 a year.
Here we have six ducks and two drakes. The ducks are
calculated to lay sixty eggs each in the season, which
equals 360, from which we should have 300 ducklings.
Two-thirds, which is 200, are sold for market at 3s. 6d.
each when they are wine weeks old. Thirty die from
some cause or other, and the remaining seventy selected
ones are kept until they are six months old, when the
value will be on an average 20s. each. A few will be
worth considerably more than this price, others perhaps
a trifle less. All this being as written, the OxpEnsPy
income, and profit will be as follows ;—
110

EXPENSES. £8

d
Feeding 8 stock ducks for 52 weeks at 24d.each perweek. 4 6 8
Feeding 230 ducklings for 9 weeks at 24d. each per week. 21 11 6
Feeding 70 ducklings for 26 weeks at 24d. each perweek. 18 19 2

0

Use of hens or incubator .....cccscesccoccereecercesteescereeceeree 2 0

Allowance for entrance fees and expenses at shows ...... 5 12 11
Depreciation of stock, 25 per cent. on £10.........se0eeeee 210 0
Total expenses ....... sees £55 0 0

INCOME.
200 ducklings sold for market at 3s, 6d, each ......csee0 35 0 0
Sb pata sles dateabinapceuscbwadeages 0 0 0

BO castal tied. .ccceccecssnceusesas sae dbeveressseeusesertes as
70 selected ones sold or in stock at 6 months, at 20s. each. 70 0 0

Total Income ...............£105 0 0
Total Expenses ............ 55 0 0

Nett Profit....ccceseece 850 0 0

 
111

PREFACE.

(FOR GEESE.)

DON’T pretend in this Essay on Geese to
place before my readers a goose that will lay

the golden egg, but only wish to point out what I
consider to be the nearest approach to the standard

of what I will call perfection in geese.

’

“Rome was not built in a day,” neither is a
goose; but as geese, according to tradition, were
the means of saving Rome, so I hope that this
“cackling’”’ of mine may be somewhat similar in
its result, and if I cannot give you the mythical
goose that will lay the golden egg, I hope I may
at least lay the foundation, by means of which you

can attain the typical goose that will lead you on

to success.
112

GEES EF.

IKE the duck, the common goose ceases to be’ strictly
monogamus when kept in a state of domestication. yet
we often find that a gander will pay more attention to some
particular goose than to the others which may be mated
with him. The instinct is not altogether obliterated, for
there is generally a reigning sultana. Therefore, it is not a
good plan to mate a large number of geese with one gander,
three being quite as many as is safe for breeding purposes.
The oldest and best authorities all agree that the ‘* Wild
Gray Lag Goose ” is the original parent of all our domesti-
cated varieties. At what period and by whom the goose
was reclaimed it is difficult to say, but that it has descended
from the “Wild Gray Lag Goose” cannot be doubted.
Neither can there be any doubt that the common goose was
found in a state of domestication in England by Cesar, and
long before his time the goose was widely spread in other
countries. The ‘Gray Lag” is an irregular migrator,
sometimes visiting the central and eastern parts of Europe,
Asia, and Africa. Formerly it was a prominent resident in
England, and took up its quarters in Lincolnshire and Cam-
bridgeshire, and other fenny districts, where it bred freely,
118

In consequence of the vast improvements which have
been made in agriculture during the last century, the
advancement in commercial enterprise, and the great increase
of human population, a great change has taken place. The
fens and marshes have been drained; extensive marshes
frequently under water have also been converted into rich
farms, and are now devoted to the plough. Consequently,
the “Gray Lag” is no longer a permanent resident in our
islund. Still a few stragglers sometimes pay us a visit
during the winter, and remain with us for a time; but the
gun of the sportsman very soon brings them down, or
disturbs them in such a manner that they do not remain
with us very long. They are naturally very shy, and are
continually on the alert, even whilst feeding. Seutinels are
on guard, and on receipt of the signal of alarm, the whole
flock instantly rise on the wing. This precaution is observed
night and day, and this instinct appears to be retained in
all our domesticated varieties, A set of geese are quite as
good guards as a watch dog, for they will raise an alarm at
the sound of footsteps, or at the least suspicion of the
presence of a stranger within the gates.

From the “ Gray Lag Goose” I will now turn to its
domesticated descendants, which vary to a considerable
extent in colour and symmetry. We have the common
goose well known throughout the British Islands.

I remember when, not very long ago, I traversed extensive
commons iu different parts of England and Scotland, seeing
thousands of these common geese, the flocks of the respective
owners generally keeping well together, and should they by
chance mingle with those of other owners’, they usually

separated themselves towards evening. Each flock was
H
114

driven home by a boy called a ‘ gozzard’”’ (goose-herd).
The flocks of goslings were brought up together and fo.med
a united band. Each flock was marked, sometimes by
dabs of paint of various colours, and sometimes by marks
punched in the webs of the feet. It was only on very
rare occasions that these marks were of service, for, being
brought up together, they appear bound by the ties of
habit to remain so.

During the last fifty years many of these large commons
have either been enclosed or very greatly circumscribed,
and the number of geese which were kept by the people
around, who had the right of grazing, has been reduced
accordingly. Still there are thousands of geese reared
annually in England, and there is room for thousands more.

Lincolnshire is still famous for rearing common geese.
Pennant tells us “That geese in his time were kept in
multitudes in the fens of Lincolnshire, a single person
frequently having a thousand old ones, each of which
reared on an average seven young ones, so that towards
the end of the season the owner became possessed of about
8,000 geese.” “The stock geese,” says Pennant, “ were
plucked five times a year for the sake of the feathers.’
Let us hope it is not so now, and in fact I do not .think it
is, especially when we take into consideration the quantity
of feathers we import from other countries, no less than
£105,526 being paid to foreigners in the year 1891 for
feathers for beds. Independent of this fact, we must not
tolerate the practice of plucking live geese, for it is a
barbarous custom, and should be thoroughly abolished. I
know it has been the death of many farmers’ geese in my
time, and mortality must have been considerably greater in
Penuant’s time.
116

Lincolnshire, Suffolk, Norfolk, and Berks, send the best,
geese to the London markets, Geese should be housed
apart from any other kind of poultry, and have large
houses or sheds to sleep in, and always be provided with
a clean dry bed of straw to lie upon. A grass run is
absolutely necessary for rearing goslings successfully, and
a convenient pond or stream of water is conducive to their
health and well-being, although not sv necessary for the
successful rearing of goslings as it is for stock birds.
Owners of geese should not suppose that grass is sufficient
to keep them in perfect health and condition, for they
require in addition a daily supply cf corn, such as oats,
wheat, barley, or maize. Without this they cannot do
credit to their owners and grow to any considerable size.

Hundreds of young geese which might have been reared
on the commons, and on poor land, have pined away and
died for want of sufficient nourishment, diseases of various
kinds have been manifest, and then aggravated by cold and
wet, their impoverished systems being destitute of stamina,
they droop and die one after another, until that which was
a fine flock in the spring is almost annihilated by the
autumn. Thousands of goslings are annually bought in
from the country by experienced feeders in the vicinity
of London and Belfast, The management of goslings by
these wholesale feeders is simply what it must be if profit
is a consideration. The whole business is conducted with
regularity, cleanliness, and punctuality.

The great object in preparing geese for market is to do it
in as short a time as possible. Unremitting attention must
be paid to their comforts and 1equirements, they must be
supplied with proper food and at proper intervals. Water
116

aud exercise must also have due attention when preparing
goslings for the market, but I shall have more to say on
this subject in another chapter.

The common goose varies in colour from the grey to the
grey-and-white saddle-back, and then to the perfect white.
There is no doubt in my mind that our present domes-
ticated sub-varieties are the outcome of man’s skill in
breeding. Our magnificent exhibition specimens have, by
the art of man, been brought to a high state of per-
fection, and that has been done by careful and judicious
selection of stock for a large number of years. All our
domesticated geese, including the common farm-yard goose,
the loose-skinned Toulouse, and the tight-feathered Embden
are of one common origin, the * Wild Gray Lag Goose.”

 
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THE TOULOUSE GOOSE.

“Toulouse Geese” are my favourites. I have bred and
exhibited them more successfully than any other variety,
‘and my idea of the standard of perfection in this variety
is identical with that of D. Bragg, Esq., Southwaite Hall,
near Carlisle, who has recently written an excellent
article on this subject and which appeared in the Christmas
number of the Fanciers’ Gazette, 1890. From this article
I have extracted several remarks, by the kind permission
of the writer, whom I know to be one of the best living
authorities on geese, also one of our best and most popular
judges of waterfowl. These remarks are chiefly confined
to the standard of excellence for exhibition and will be
found useful to breeders of geese. I do not believe in
feeding my geese up to extraordinary weights for exhibi-
tion. It is one of the most fatal mistakes that can possibly
be made. It is the absolute ruin of a good bird, reducing
such to barrenness, and often resulting in premature death.

It is the proper course to get the frame as large as
possible, and with it a sound constitution in order to
carry a large weight of flesh consistent with the size of
the frame. Too much fat, especially internally, is most
detrimental and dangerous to the lives of your geese.
I prefer my geese being judged by appearance rather than
by weight. My pair of Toulouse geese. which won at all
our leading shows during the year 1888-9 weighed forty-
eight pounds, and my greatest difficulty with them was
to keep the weight down. So great was their disposition
to fatten that it was very rarely they got anything but
grass in summer and a little bran and thirds in the winter.
The accompanying sketch is a true representation of the
gander in question, now the property of Miss Howarth,
119

of Rochdale, and has since won the first and the cup at the
Palace, two firsts and two cups at Birmingham, and first
and cup at Liverpool

Since parting with the above I have claimed, at the
Dairy Show, Miss L. Picken’s gander, which won the first
prize and the Association medal, 1890. This gander is, in.
my idea, perfection in style, colour, and build, allowing
he is not quite so large as Miss Howarth’s. A capital
sketch of this bird appeared in the Christmas number of
the Fanciers’ Gazette, 1890. I am informed on reliable
authority that he is one of Mr. Bragg’s strain. But be.
that as it may, he is just the. type of a Toulouse gander
from which I shall draw up my standard of perfection,
assisted by Mr. Bragg. No doubt this is the modern and
improved type, and has met with general approval, and
deservedly so. The chief improvement in the form and
symmetry of the Toulouse is a prominent and deep breast,
resembling as much as possible that of a first-class Rouen
or Aylesbury duck.

The keel should be perfectly straight from stem to
paunch, where it divides evenly and increases in width to
stern, yet forms a straight underline. All indentations
in front of thighs to be well filled out, otherwise the full,
deep breast will resemble a loose crop. Stern to be heavy
and wide. In contour, a full rising sweep from paunch
to a high-carried, spreading tail. Shoulders, broad.
Narrow shoulders are a general failing. Neck, medium
length and thick.

The head should be strong and massive; in profile, an
uniform sweep, or nearly so, from point of bill to back of
skull, resembling in formation the head of an Antwerp
120

pigeon. Throat, moderately gulleted which is uniform
with the loose-skinned body of the Toulouse. A side
view of the bird should appear almost square, and viewed
from behind, an oblong square. The same description
answers for both goose and gander of this variety, for it
is sometimes difficult at exhibitions to say which is the
goose and which the gander, but the sex should always
be bond fide.

Colour of bill and legs, orange. Any white round the
base of the bill is very objectionable, and should be bred
out if possible. It comes with age in some strains, and I
do not remember seeing many really good old Toulouse
geese without this fault. I have known them to be pulled
out, and in more than one case dyed; therefore I would
not pass or even score many points against a Toulouse
with this defect apparent.

Neck feathers, dark grey. Back, wings, and thighs,
dark steel-grey, each feather laced with an almost white
edging. The breast should be asound grey colour, without
lacing, and to descend as uniform as possible through the
keel. Toulouse are very liable to run too light in colour
below the breast The colour does naturally run lighter
from the breast to the legs, but when viewed in front,
little or no white should be seen. The stern, from the
legs to the tail, should be white. Tail, white, with a
broad band of grey across the centre. The wing-flights,
a self-coloured dark grey. Eyes, large, bright. and dark.
Twenty-eight pounds is a good weight for a matured
gander, and twenty pounds for a goose in fair store condi-
tion. J do not wish to have them more than these weights.
 

lee
: <a) ss . ~
oe ee GR OSS
Fg SOA AN
ha i
Ht

        
 

 

The Dairy winner of 1890

 

 

The Author’s Ideal Toulouse Gander.
improved
122

SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING
TOULOUSE GEESE.
VALUE OF POINTS IN EITHER SEX.

 

Head, Strong and massive. Points
Eye, Dark and full.
Bill, Orange, strong and well set, in a uniform
sweep, or nearly so, from point of bill to
and back of skull.

Throat, |Well gulleted. 0. 4. etme wee] 18
Neck. Good length and thickness, dark-grey colour... 5

Breast |Prominent, deep and full, a sound grey colour,
and shading a trifle lighter to thighs.

Keel Perfectly straight from stem to paunch, in-
creasing in width to stern, forming a straight
underline. Colour same as breast. ... -«/ 10

Colour |Back, wings, and thighs : dark-steel grey, each
an feather laced with an almost white edging.
Marking. Flights: a sound grey without white. | 10

Tail, Carried high and well spread, white, with a
broad band of grey across the centre.
Stern and

Paunch. |Heavy and wide. Colour: white diss | 10

Size As large as possible. A good well-matured
gander should weigh 28 to 30 lbs., and a
goose 20 to 22 lbs. aie aie a --| 20

i Symmetry Massive head, carried majestically on a etn
well-formed neck. Body : long, broad, and
‘ deep. Shoulders: broad. Breast and keel:
deep, forming a straight underline. Paunch
and stern : a full, rising sweep to tail. vel 15

Legs and | Orange, and very strong in bone. sed | 5

|
Plumage: full, bright, and glossy, and in per-
\ Health and fect order throughout. Eye: bold and clear.
Condition | Body : heavy, but not broken down.

t

o

}

 

 

0
ce Totai number of Points sige (100

DIsQUALIFICATIONS.—Crooked back, wry tail, slipped or cut
wings, or any other bodily deformity, and patches of black or white
amongst the grey plumage. The sex should also be boné-fide,
 

 

 

 

Embden Gander, winner at the Dairy and Birmingham, now - the
property of Henry. Digby, Author of this work,

 
124

THE EMBDEN GOOSE.

HIS handsome and useful variety of geese have un-

 

doubtedly been neglected during the last few years,
although they muster fairly well when separate classes are
provided for them. But where are the Embden fanciers ?
And echo answers where ?

Some time since one fancier wrote to the Stock-keeper com-
plaining that all varieties of geese were jumbled together at
the Crystal Palace Show. When I appealed to Embden
fanciers to give their names and support to provide separate
classes for Embdens at the next Palace Show, I failed to
find that writer's name amongst my list of supporters, I
may say that the Palace Committee are quite willing to
give classes for Embden geese if fanciers will support them;
but of course they must have some guarantee that the
classes will fill or pay in some other way.

It is quite true what -‘ Poor Embden” says in his letter.
“The superiority of the Embden as a table bird is unques-
tionable, and the encouragement it receives at the hands of
99 judges out of 100 is most disappointing.” Some judges
do not understand the merits of the birds sufficiently well
to place them over their more bulky-looking relatives, the
Toulouse. The Embdens are undoubtedly excellent table
birds, prolific layers, and good breeders, and where we are
able to record the sale of a pair of this variety for the
handsome sum of £50, it is enough, or ought to be, to
induce farmers and others who have convenience to keep a
few geese to go in for breeding Embdens, especially when I
tell yeu on reliable authority that they weighed 53lbs, 6ozs.
125

the pair, so that if they had not been up to the standard’
of perfection for exhibition, they would have realised a fair:
price in the market for table purposes. .

I quite agree with Mr. Bragg, who is one of the most
extensive breeders, also one of the best judges of this
variety, as to the required distinction between the Embden
and the Toulouse. If other judges would only act con-
sistently they would eventually put a stop to the cross
between the two, at all events for exhibition purposes.

Embdens should have long broad breasts, with as little
indication of keel as possible; shoulders broad; long straight
back; body broad and thick, and as near round as possible ;
a long swan-like neck is a characteristic and an’ important
set off to an Embden. +

The head should be long and straight, avoiding as
much as possible a “dished” upper mandible, The throat
should be clean without the slightest indication of gullet.
I would not disqualify an otherwise good bird if even it did
show a bit of gullet. The tail should be carried close
and straight out; bill and legs should be a rich orange
colour ; eyes light blue; colour of body throughout a
spotless white; carriage more sprightly and upright than
the Toulouse, thus giving the bird a very smart and defiant
appearance.

Embdens frequently weigh heavier than the Toulouse,
although they really do not appear to be so large. They
are, or should be, very hard and tight in feather, something
like the game eock, whereas the Toulouse is more like the
Cochin, and geese should be judged quite as distinctly as
the two varieties of fowls just named. A well-matured
Embden gander will turn the scale at 30]bs., aud a goose
at 22\bs.
£

 

Typical young Embden Gander, winner of many first prizes.
The property of Mr. Kenneth Hutchinson, of Eggleston Hall,
near Darlington. (from a photograph).
127

SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING

EMBDEN GEESE.

VALUE OF POINTS IN EITHER SEX.

Head,
Bill,
Eyes

Neck

Breast

Plumage

Size
Symmetry

Legs and
Scot

Health and
Condition

 

General appearance : long and straight.
Rich orange,
Full and light blue. oe ws seg

Long and swan-like.

Broad and solid, with as little indication of
keel as possible. (One nage es without
any indication of keel). oe

A spotless white throughout.

As large as possible. A well-matured gander
should weigh from 30 to 34 lbs, anda Ee
from 20 to 22 lbs. aes wee

A long, straight head, well carried on a long,
swan-like neck. Breast: broad and solid.
Shoulders: broad. Back, straight. Frame:
long. ‘Tail carried well out and close.
Paunch: deep. Stern: broad.

Bright orange, and very strong in bone.

Plumage: compact, hard, bright, and glossy.
Eye: full and bright. Body: heavy; and
general appearance lively and defiant. i

Total number of points

12
10

20

10

20

12

10

-- (00

 

 

DISQUALIFICATIONS.—Crooked back, wry tail, or any other
deformity. Plumage other than white. Misrepresentation of sex.

Points
128

BREEDING AND REARING GEESE
FOR EXHIBITION.

‘ag breeding goslings for exhibition it is very important

to make judicious selection of breeding stock, which
should consist of a gander and two or three geese. They
should be of mature age (not less than two years old), and
the gander should not be too closely related to the geese.
In fact it is much better to use stock birds which have
been bred from two distinct families. Therefore, if you are
beginning a strain, I would advise you to purchase your
geese from one breeder and your gander from another,
although a few breeders, I have no doubt, could supply
you with both unrelated. Still it is the safest aud best
plan to go to separate yards for your stock birds. If you
find your geese prolific layers and good breeders, throwing
a fair percentage of guod birds, I would advise you to
keep that pen of geese until you find that they do not lay
more than twelve or fifteen eggs each in a season.

Geese vary considerably in their laying and reproductive
powers—some living and doing well to a great age, ten
years being no uncommon time for them to live and do
well—that is, if they have been used solely for breeding
purposes and have not been overfed or knocked about the
country from show to show.

If you feed them on stimulating food in order to get
extraordinary size and condition, you will at the same time
129

undermine their constitutions and shorten the period of
their natural lives. In situations adapted for breeding geese
there is no doubt they are profitable; but to do well they
require access to water and a grass run, which is absolutely
necessary to successful breeding. When kept under such
circumstances, they require very little hand feeding, a good
handful of wheat, barley, or oats to each bird morning and
evening being quite sufficient during the breeding season.
They should have an outhouse to themselves, plentifully
supplied with straw with which to make their nests on the
floor. There may be two or three large American bacon
boxes placed in the corners on their side, or a few partitions
fixed so that the geese may (if they choose) make their nests
and lay in them without being disturbed by each other.
Geese commence laying early in February if the season is a
mild one and the breeding stock have been fairly well
nourished during the winter.

The Toulouse are the most prolific layers, but they are
only indifferent sitters and mothers. I have owned indi-
vidual birds of this variety which have laid no less than
forty-two eggs in one season, and several others which have
laid between thirty and forty. The Embdens do not lay
quite so many eggs as do the Toulouse, but they are zon-
siderably better sitters and mothers.

The wild gray-lag goose lays from five to eight eggs;
the tame common goose from thirteen to eighteen. High
feeding, careful selection, and other comforts bestowed on
our high-class geese have increased their prolificacy to a
very great extent, and it is not at all an unusual occurrence
at the present time for a single goose to lay thirty eggs in a
season.

A common goose will frequently lay a second time if
I
1380

even she is allowed to sit, and bring up a brood of goslings.
I prefer sitting my goose eggs under large hens, giving each
four or five, according to the size of the hen. I find hens
much safer than geese for incubation. I have occasionally
hatched goose eggs in the ‘“ Westmeria Incubator,” but I
would advise beginners to use hens in preference to either
geese or incubators.

The period of incubation is thirty days, if the goose or
hen sits well, and the eggs are all fresh when put down;
but it may, and frequently does, extend a day or two over
that period. If the eggs are entrusted to a goose, the house
in which she is sat should be so arranged that the bird can
have entrance at all times of the day, for the sitting goose
generally leaves her nest once a day, when she should be
fed with hard corn. It is a good plan to leave some corn in
a bowl of water close by her, so that she may be able to
feed at any time she may leave the nest, and it is desirable
that she should have access to water at this time. Goose
eges should always be set on the ground or in large boxes
half filled with moist soil, so that when the heat of the
bird’s body which is sitting on them has warmed the nest
through (which should be made of hay) it will draw suffi-
cient moisture from the soil to soften the hard shell and the
inside membrane, and so enable the gosling to extricate
itself from its prison without the risk of being shell-bound.
Should the season be a dry one, the earth or soil under and
around the nest should be freely watered with warm
water two or three times during the last fortnight ‘of
incubation. I never sprinkle water on to the eggs; there is
often great danger in such a practice. It is much safer to
water the ground all around the nest, and even the nest
itself may be damped with adyantage, but the eggs should
131

not have water sprinkled directly upon them. The process
of watering the nest is best done at night, when all is quict,
as the sitting hen is then less likely to be disturbed, and the
work can be done efficiently. A quart of warm water is not
too much for each nest, especially if the nest is properly
made. It is not desirable to interfere with the goslings at
the period of hatching, further than to remove the shells
and any other refuse which may be in the nest. They
should be allowed to remain in the nest for at least twenty-
four hours after hatching before being disturbed or fed.
Some people take them away from the mother as soon as
they are hatched until the whole lot are hatched out. I
never indulge in any such unnatural practices, but I allow
them to remain in the nest under the hen or goose who has
hatched them for a whole day and a night after the appear-
ance of the first gosling. By this time all that are of any
good will be hatched, and are being nursed in such a
manner that cannot possibly be equalled by any amount
of artificial heat. The next day they may be removed to
the shed or coop provided for them, and may be supplied
with their first meal and a bit of cut grass. Many people
seem to think that goslings are very little trouble and
expense as compared with other domestic poultry, but my
experience is somewhat different. I find it necessary to use
the’ best and most nutritious foods for very young goslings,
that is, if I wish them to attain to a very large size, or
arrive at a high state of perfection ; and as I am trying to
show beginners how to rear goslings for exhibition, I will
endeavour to explain the ways and means by which I have
succeeded during a long and successful experience. First,
do not be misled by writers who tell you that goslings are
the easiest creatures in the world to rear. Certainly they
1382

can and do exist under circumstances which would prove
fatal to turkeys or many other varieties of poultry, but it
should be remembered that to exist is one thing but to dive
well is another. Prizes are not won now-a-days by animals
and birds of only ordinary merit. There are now so many
skilled breeders and exhibitors of most varieties that we
must have something extraordinary to be successful, and in
order to rear our birds to perfection we must use all fair and
legitimate means to get this extraordinary size, and that can
only be attained by a system of judicious feeding and
assiduous care and attention in every particular. It is also
essential they should have an abundance of fresh air, exer-
cise, and pure water to drink and swim in. A good house
well bedded with straw to lie upon at nights is another
important necessity. If goslings get a good start they
seldom look behind them, and they grow amazingly after
the first week or two. I have had goslings during the last
few years which, when only three weeks old, I found it
impossible to get the marking rings over their feet. I have
been surprised at the amount of bone they have made in so

short a time.

My first feed consists of hard boiled egg, a bit of suet,
and a few bread crumbs chopped up together. Of course
there is, or ought to be moderation in the supply of such
highly nutritious food. Eggs and bread are only neces-
sary for the first three or four days. A liberal supply of
fine sharp grit and green food of some kind is absolutely
necessary from the first. This and sufficient clean water
to drink during the first week or ten days will be all they
require, and after that a swim will do them good ; but do
not drive them into the water, let them take to it on their
183

own accord. When the goslings are three or four days
old diminish the quantity of eggs or discontinue their
use altogether. I prefer giving for six or eight days a
bit of good, sound wheat, a few groats, or a bit of tip-top
barley once or twice daily affords a healthy change.
Now, as size is a great consideration, it will be beneficial
to give goslings that kind of food containing a large
percentage of bone-making material. Fine sharps or
middlings, as it is often called, should be used along
with the biscuit meal. The advantages of this method of
feeding are many, especially if such a method is supple-
mented by good pasture. It is a mistake to suppose that
goslings will thrive as well on poor, coarse land as they
will do on rich, well cultivated soil.

BREEDING GEESE FOR THE TABLE
OR MARKET PURPOSES ONLY.

N breeding goslings simply for the table or market

 

there will be no necessity for spending much money
at the commencement. Geese which have been forced
to an extraordinary size for the sake of winning prizes
are neither necessary nor desirable for the production of
goslings for the market. Now, although it is exceedingly
undesirable to have recourse to the over large exhibition
specimens for this purpose, it is most important that a
proper start should be made, and that suitable birds
should be selected in order to produce the best results.
These can only be obtained by the use of strong, healthy,
well-matured parents, which should be of medium size.
134

If you prefer breeding from a cross, let that cross be
between two pure varieties. I would strongly advise
you to use an Embden gander and a Toulouse govse, or
vice versa, but the Toulouse being very much more prolific
layers than the Embdens, frequently lay double the
number of eggs in a season; consequently they are the
best and most profitable to keep for this purpose; and
as they do not evince a desire to sit nearly so soon as
the Embdens, their eggs may be set under hens, and
double the quantity of goslings may be hatched and
reared. Let me advise those who have already a good
class of common saddle-backs (grey-and-white) geese to
purchase a Toulouse or Embden gander to run with them,
for I am sure the result would be very satisfactory.
Hither would increase the size and prolificacy of the
offspring. Spanish or Canadian ganders may be used
for crossing with other varieties, and such crosses are
generally very successful.

It should be remembered that the heavier your goslings
weigh, the greater will be the price in proportion. For
instance, a well-fed gosling, weighing 20 lbs., will realise
threepence per pound more than one weighing only 10]bs.

Extraordinary good home-fed goslings always realise a
remunerative price. Where there is good convenience
for keeping geese, and they can obtain a large proportion
of their food on the pastures and on the stubble, there is
no doubt that they can be made to pay a good return for
the money spent and the trouble bestowed upon them.
The stock birds can be kept in a productive condition
much longer than any other variety of poultry; in fact
they have been known to breed well at fifteen and up
135

to twenty years of age. Old ganders are sometimes
very pugnacious and ill-tempered, and they are often
very dangerous where there are children, espécially
during the breeding season, therefore it is well to keep a
sharp eye on them during this period, or they may do
serious damage to unsuspecting children. It is best to
give these old ill-tempered birds a wids berth, or to keep
them in an enclosure where the fence is sufficiently good
to keep them within their bounds.

An idea prevails with many farmers that any kind of
light grain or the poorest of pasturage will do for geese
and goslings. A greater mistake cannot be made; and
those who breed and feed on a large scale know better,
and invariably make it a rule to use the best. They
‘* Let the flock’s good feed be the master’s heed. What
at first he may cast will be doubled at last.” The
Lincolnshire Chronicle for December, 1845, states that Mr.
R. Fuller, a poulterer of Boston, killed in one week for
the London Christmas market 2,400 geese, 1,000 ducks,
and 500 turkeys, which weighed altogether upwards of
twenty tons. Thousands of goslings are still sent from
various parts of the country to persons engaged in the
business of preparing them for the market, and this
business is carried on profitably and to a very great
extent in the vicinity of London and Belfast.

The management of the birds by the great feeders is
carried on as it were by machinery; with such regularity
and system, cleanliness and punctuality prevails, and as
soon as ever the birds are fit they are killed and marketed.
Well, now, if it is profitable to breed goslings and sell
them to these feeders, who also have to make a profit out
136

of ihem by the time they are ready for consumption, I
ask whether it would not pay the breeder considerably
better to keep his goslings until they were ready for the
market, and then send them direct to the nearest or best
market? Or, better still, where practicable, to sell them
direct to the consumer, and by doing so reap the whole
benefit of your own industry, and save the profits which
the middlemen under the present circumstanses gain ?

I am quite aware that it is not always possible to avoid
dealing through middlemen, but such dealings should be
avoided as far as possible. Green geese are sent from the
southern counties to the London market very early in the
season, when they realise gcod prices. They are well fed
from the shell until they are about four months old, at
which time they pay the best return. The great secret of
rearing gceslings profitably for the market is to keep them
going by feeding them well all the way from the shell to
the market, and es soon as ever they are ready let them
go, and don’t keep them to eat their heads off. If proper
attention and good fcod is bestowed upon them frcm the
first there will ke no necessity for any particular course
of fattening, for when they are big enough they will be
fat enough. Gocd fat goslings are always good to sell, so
that there need be no excuse for keeping them till Christ-
mas. Farmers having stubble and a quantity of light
coin can profitably afford to run goslings on to the festive
season. Small keepers, who, I will suppose, have no
stubble, and have nearly all to buy for their birds, must
ect very differently, ‘bey must make the most of their
goslings in the shortest time possible, or the balance will
mest assurcdly be on the wrong side. Goslings, as arule,
137

have gcod appetites, and are capable of consuming a
large quantity of food, hence my reason for pushing them
on to the very end without a break,

Goose breeding and rearing may be carried on success-
fully and profitably by many farmers without interfering
with other branches of farming industry. This can only
be effected by the observance of a few simple rules. In
the first place, judicious selection of breeding stock is
very important, for it is only large birds that will pay for
the trouble and expense of rearing, and as they eat very
little more than small ones the profit is considerably
greater. Secondly, goslings intended for an early market
must be as well fed and as comfortably housed as any
other class of live stock. Thirdly, they should be killed
and sold as soon as they are in the pink of condition for
the first time. If they are allowed to pass this stage, I
question very much whether they will ever pay as well,
if even they weigh a few pounds heavier. Last, but not
the least rule to consider, is the best way to kill and
market your goslings.

There is a great diversity of opinion as to the best way
of killing geese. Some people are neither quick nor
merciful when performing this operation, and I think it
needless for me to describe many of the ways and means
adopted of taking the lives of geese, for some of them are
exceedingly cruel. The best way of killing a goose is,
“ first catch it;” afterwards tie the legs together with a
piece of strong twine, then cross the wings to prevent it
from knocking about. Drive a strong nail or have a hook
fixed in some convenient situation in the backyard or in
an outhouse. Hang the goose up by the legs, the head
138

will then, es a matter of course, be downwards; take a
short thick stick in your right hand, and strike a smart
but not heavy blow on the back of the head, which will
stun the bird for the time. Have a sharp penknife in
readiness, and the moment you have struck the blow
with the stick take up your penknife in your right hand,
hold the head of the goose with the left, then at once
proceed to stick the bird through the neck immediately
behind the extremity of the lower jaw. This should be
done with one thrust of the knife, and should cut the
main artery or jugular vein just in the same way as
a butcher would stick a sheep.

Geese killed in this manner frequently die without a
struggle, and so far as my experience goes, I have found
it the most expeditious and consequently the most merciful
method of taking their lives. Now that a goose has
been slain, the next thing to be done is to pluck it This
is best done whilst the body is still warm, therefore no
time should be lost, but as soon as ever life is extinct
plucking should be commenced and finished as soon as
possible. The feathers should be selected as they are
plucked, i.e., all strong quills and secondaries should be
put in a receptacle by themselves, and all the fine
feathers and down in another, for good goose feathers
have still a certain market value. Therefore they should
be carefully selected and preserved whilst plucking is
proceeding. Should the goose in question be destined for
market it should be put into shape as soon as it is
plucked.

The legs and feet should be twisted on-to the back and
the wings on to the shoulders. The bird should then be
laid out in a cold place, with its breast upon a cold stone
139

marble, or granite slab. A cold brick may be placed on
each side to keep it straight. Then place a flat board
across the top of the back. By this means your goose
will assume a nice plump appearance by the time it is
thoroughly cool and ready to be packed for the market.
If, however, the goose is intended for consumption at
home it should be hung up by the legs in a cool place
until it is required by the cook. This latter plan making
the flesh more tender and a better colour. The next thing
to be done before sending to market is the ‘‘packing.”
This is by no means the least important part of the
business. Carelessness in packing has often resulted in
undoing and ruining the work of months’ previous indus-
try. Hampers for packing geese or poultry of any kind
for market should be strong and firm. They should Le
just the size required—neither too large nor too small—
as either would be likely to bruise the skin and make
them unsightly. As each layer of geese is placed in the
hamper a piece of cheap calico or a sheet of clean white
paper should be thrown over them, and all the spaces
well filled up with sweet hay. Another sheet of paper
or a piece of cotton should be placed on the top of the
packing before the next layer of geese is put into the
hamper. Every crevice should be well filled in with
packing to guard against the possibility of shaking about
in transit. The quickest route is certainly the best by
which to send geese to market. They never improve on
a journey. The sooner they can be conveyed from the

homestead to their destination the greater will be the’ ~

chance of obtaining a good price for them. The sooner
they are unpacked the better they will look and greater
will be the returns.
141

HOW TO [IMPROVE THE TURKEY.

HE following articles were originally written by me

for and appeared in the Stock-keeper of March and

April, 1892, and I hope the reproduction of the same
may be useful to some of my readers.

The origin and history of the turkey is a matter of
minor consideration to the breeder of the present day.
Darwin says in his “ Variations of Animals and Plants
under Domestication,” that it seems fairly well estab-
lished that ‘The turkey, in accordance with the history
of its first introduction, is descended from the wild
Mexican form, which had been domesticated by the
natives before the discovery of America. It is now
generally ranked as a local race and not as a distinct
species.” Jobn Walcot, a writer on British birds in 1789,
says :—*‘ The turkey was first brought to England in the
year 1521.” It is certain that the turkey was well
known in the reign of Henry VIL. The wild turkey is
believed in every instance to have been imported from
the United States of America, and has been kept in the
parks cf English noblemen since the year 1824. In con-
sequence of changed conditions of life—namely, climate
and domestication—together with the want of knowledge
as to the pioper treatment, the chickens became very
142

delicate and difficult to rear. For many successive genera-
tions “inbreeding” has evidently impaired the stamina
of this noble race of poultry. To some extent our Eng-
lish-bred turkeys have degenerated, and are not equal
either in size or stamina to their original progenitors.
During the last few years several importations of Ameri-
can mammoth have been made. A decided improvement
is now visible at most of our large exhibitions.

I think by careful and judicious selection of stock
birds, together with a better knowledge of their habits
and treatment, the time will come when our domesticated
turkey will outrival the size and beauty of the wild
genus. Much can be done by real fanciers, although
greater variety may not be desired, still there is no
reason why our existing varieties should not be improved.
The turkey ought to be one of the farmer’s best sup-
porters. I am often at a loss to know why its culture
should be so much neglected. There is no doubt that it
ranks amongst the most profitable of our domestic poultry
if kept under favourable circumstances. Their noble
appearance, the great weight to which they attain. the
demand for really good specimens, and the prices which
can be obtained for them, ought to be sufficient induce-
ment for farmers to breed them more extensively than
they do at the present time. ‘I'o those who occupy a warny
and genial position, with a fine dry soil and an extensive
range, I would advise them to give the turkey a fair trial.

I have frequently asked farmers whose circumstances I
thonght suitable why they did not keep turkeys? The
answer has invariably been, because the chickens are so
very delicate and difficult to rear. The reason for this
143

may be that the chickens which were so difficult to rear
were bred from immature parents or from stock too
closely related. If so, the remedy is in the hands of the
breeders. Should your soil be cold and damp, with a
heavy clay bottom or subsoil, by all means let turkeys
alone, for they cannot thrive on such land. If your land
be light, warm, and dry, and well protected by trees and
hedgerows, then turkeys will thrive and pay quite as
well and perhaps better than most other farm stock.

Turkeys attached to a farmhouse are very ornamental,
and they appear to lead a very happy life, especially when
the soil is of a dry chalky or sandy nature, because they
wander about the farmyards and stackyards, visit the
adjoining pastures and meadows, traverse the common or
the lanes, troop about the barn, and enjoy total freedom.
Consequently they have good air and plenty of room, and
as a rule there is no lack of food. To pure air should be
added pure water, with the opportunity of varying their
diet by picking up insects, grit, old mortar, or any other
calcareous matter ; with these they are sure to do very,
well, especially if they can have an unlimited range.

The necessary appliances for keeping turkeys are
separate houses to roost in. sheds for shelter, and coops
for the young ones. In building a turkey-house, or in
converting some other building into one, the most import-
ant considerations are that it should be large in proportion
to the number of birds to be accommodated. It should
be well ventilated, without a draught, The floor must be
dry and the roof watertight. Windows and openings for
ventilation are absolutely necessary, and they should be
so placed as to give plenty of light and air. There
144

should be no draughts upon the birds as they sit at roost.
The perches should be made of round poles with the bark
on, and should be five or six inches in diameter. They
should be place1 four feet apart, and not more than four
feet from the ground. When heavy birds are obliged to
drop (I cannot call it fly) from very high perches in a
confined space, they frequently injure their legs and feet.
It is true that the nature of the turkey is to roost on the
top branches of high trees. In this case they have
plenty of room to fly down on to the ground, and can do
so without injury. If perches for turkeys are placed
higher than four feet, more room must be given in the
house, and the floor must not be a hard one. It may be
beaten earth, with several inches of loose dry earth
spread over it. Such floors are objectionable, because
the loose earth is a harbour for vermin of various kinds,
In my opinion concrete is the best, and in the end
cheapest.

A turkey-house should be constructed away from any
other henhouse, and should be kept for their exclusive
use, for, as Mr. Brown justly says ;—‘“ Turkeys are aristo-
crats, looking with contempt upon other fowls, and often
injuring them if they come too near.” Overcrowding
the roosting house must be avoided, or the temperature
will rise too high, which is often the cause of disease. A
good shed or two will be found a very valuable adjunct
to every turkey house.

A few rough poles supporting a roof, which may be
covered (as well as the back and ends of the shed) with
any kind of rough material suitable for the purpose, will
make a shelter from wet, cold winds, or overheat from
145

the sun, which will amply repay its cost, and tell wall
on the health and well-doing of the stock. It may be
made any length, from 12ft. to 40ft. The width may be
from 6ft. to 12ft. The proper height will be about 6ft.
in front (which should face the south) to 9ft. at the back.
I prefer the top, back, and erds being thatched with
straw, as this keeps the shed cooler in the summer and
warmer in the winter than wood or corrugated iron
would do. The use of such a shed affords shelter and a
dry retreat to the birds at all times and seasons. Let it
be well supplied with dry dust, old mortar, sharp gravel,
etc. A shed will also be found very useful, in fact indis-
pensable, for cooping the mothers and their young broods
during the rearing season.

The size of the coop required for turkey chickens
depends on the kind of mother hen used for incubation.
If an ordinary cross-bred, or a Brahma, Cochin, Dorking,
or Langshan hen has been brought into requisition, an
ordinary wood chicken-coop, about 38 ft. square, with
lathed front, will answer the purpose. If the mother is
the natural turkey hen, the coop must be made larger,
according to the size of the hen. There are now so
many varieties of chicken-coops manufactured by different
makers that I think any description from me would be
superfluous. A good coop, however, is requisite, and, in
spite of the adverse opinions of other writers, I certainly
prefer a loose wood bottom, having two cross battens
underneath, in order to prevent the damp striking through.
It is all very well having two or three inches of dry
ashes or sawdust plaved under the hen and her brood
‘without any other means of protection between them and
the mother earth. K
146

My experience is that after the hen and her brood has
been sitting for several hours on the loose material, the
heat from their bodies is sufficient to draw the damp
moisture through the loose and apparently dry material.
JI prefer having a loose bottom in my coops, under which
can pass a current of air, and thus prevent the heat of
the hen’s body from drawing damp, which is frequently
the cause of cramp, rheumatics, and many more malig-
nant diseases. Some people will say that turkey chicks
when reared in their natural wild state would sleep in
their nest, which is on the ground, and of this fact I am
well aware. I am also conversant with the fact that in a
state of nature the chicks have perfect liberty, and that
long before our British workmen are out of bed (although
early risers) the chicks have had their morning meal, and
have been invigorated by the exercise and the use of their
limbs whilst in search of food.

They require very different treatment when brought
under a state of domestication, and when bred and
reared under entirely changed conditions of life. Let
me advise turkey breeders. to use good sound roomy
wood coops, with loose wood bottoms fitting inside, so
that the coop may be lifted completely off, leaving the
bottom undisturbed on the ground. It can then be
removed, and all the droppings scraped off into a wheel-.
barrow or on to the dung heap, and then replaced on to
fresh ground or in another position under the shed. The
bottom of the coop should be well covered with fine
dry. ashes, soil, or road dust. Coarse sand should not be
used for very young chicks, as it is very cold, and. being
very sharp might injure their delicate legs, feet, or breasts.
147

Whatever kind of material is used for this purpose it
should be very dry, and must be removed daily. Coops
for very young turkeys should always be piaced under
the large sheds, and should be well protected from wind,
rain, and sun.

The general characteristics of all varieties of turkeys
are similar, except in colour. The bill should be strong
and well curved, its base furnished with a naked skin
surmounted by a fleshy carnicle of an erectile nature,
concile in form, and greatly developed in the cocks.
Head and neck surmounted by a wrinkled mammilated
or carunculated skin; changeable in colour, from pale
pink to scarlet or violet, hanging in loose folds or clusters
over the upper part of the breast. A tuft of long, black,
bristly hair, or hair-like feathers on the breast of the
males. Legs strong, and the cocks armed with strong,
stout spurs, feet large and strong, the hind toe should
be well set and touching the ground, as in a good game
cock.

The mammoth bronze turkey of America has been of
great service in improving the size and stamina of our
Cambridge and Norfolk breeds. As size is most important,
breeders in this country have reason to thank our Ameri-
can cousins for domesticating and sending specimens of
such a noble race as the mammoth bronze turkey. There
is no doubt that the Cambridge and Norfolk breeds have
been considerably improved by repeated crosses with.
the Americans. The best specimen of this variety
that I ever saw was a cock which was exhibited at the
Crystal Palace, 1891, by Mr. D. J. Armes. Although
this bird only won the third prize at the above show, he
148

was, without exception, the best specimen of the kind
seen for some time. His head points were all that could
be desired, he was certainly the largest framed bird in
the class, and his colour was something wonderful. The
metallic splendour and varying tints of his plumage out-
rivalled anything I ever beheld on a turkey. I did not
weigh him, but it happened to be my business to pen and
repack him, and I have no hesitation in saying that he
weighed fully 40lbs.

The mammoth bronze turkey is the king of turkeys,
being the largest and handsomest in existence. Their
plumage is of a rich metallic bronze that glistens in
the sunlight like burnished gold. Good male specimens
should weigh at maturity 30lbs. to 45lbs., and occasion-
ally we hear of one reaching 50lbs. They do not mature
until after the third year. If you breed from leggy, fine-
barred immature birds, the progeny will be weakly ; but
by selecting the largest, deep, broad, heavy-barred birds,
we not only increase their size but hardiness as well.

In addition to the American mammoth bronze, we have
the Cambridge bronze, the Norfolk black, the Austrian
white, the Tuscarawas red, the Honduras, the Mexican,
and the crested turkeys. As my space is limited, and as
I wish to place before my readers more profitable informa-
tion, I cannot go further into detail on the description of
the different varieties, but will proceed to show the
means by which the turkey may be improved.
149

SELECTION OF BREEDING STOCK.

F it be true that turkeys are more difficult to rear than
any other class of domestic poultry, and if size is
the most important consideration to the breeder, he must
use great care and judgment in the selection of breed-
ing stock. We cannot expect strong, healthy, vigorous
chickens from weeds or from immature parents. It is
acknowledged by nearly all writers that the turkey does
not arrive at its full growth until its third year. Still
many of these writers advocate the use of birds at one
year old for stock purposes, Now, if turkeys do not
attain their full growth until they are three years old,
it must be allowed that they have not arrived at maturity,
and consequently should not be selected for stock pur-
poses. If immature stock birds are used the chickens
will certainly be delicate and difficult to rear. Neither
can we reasonably expect that chickens bred from imma-
ture parents can ever grow to a satisfactory state of
perfection, for they have not the stamina. Well-developed
specimens are always good to dispose of, and when we
take into consideration the extraordinary prices which
can be obtained for the: largest birds, we are bound to
come to the conclusion that large specimens are the most
profitable.
In December last I received a price list from a London
salesman, and his price for turkeys weighing from seven
to niné pounds was 9d. per pound, gradually increasing to
150

1s. 6d. per Jb. for turkeys of twenty pounds and upwards.
Therefore, the great point to be aimed at in breeding
turkeys is size. If breeders will only give this subject
sufficient consideration they will be able to build up the
almost broken-down constitutions of the most valuable table
fowl we possess. In selecting a stock turkey cock it will be
well to take into consideration that he does not arrive at
maturity until he is three years old, and that he is not in
his prime until then. Consequently he should not be bred
from until he is fully developed. I would not on any
account advise the use of a cockerel one year old, and I
would further advise strongly the evasion of a stock bird
which is two years old. Although the eggs may be quite
fertile, the chickens would not be so strong as they other-
wise would be if a fully-matured sire had been their
progenitor. Being satisfied that the turkey takes three
years to arrive at maturity, we may safely allow that he
will remain in his prime for two or three years longer. At
three years old a turkey cock should be full of life and
vigour. His breastbone should be long and straight, short
breastbones being very objectionable. His legs should be
cleau, coarse scaly legs being also objectionable. The whole
of his plumage should be well developed ; his eyes should
be bright. The carunculated skin of the head and neck
full and rapid in its changes of colour. He should demon-
strate his fitness by his proud gait, his tail expanded aud
his wings lowered, jarriug on the ground as he struts along.
A turkey cock which has not been overfed or overshown
may safely be used for stock purposes for two or three
years. Consequently, all the young cocks, with a single
exception, may be disposed of. The excepted one should
151

always be the choice of the season’s breeding, and should
be kept in reserve in case of accident.

It is very important that the cock should not be related
to the hens which are to be mated with him. The more
fanciers continue to import fresh sires from America the
stronger and larger will our British turkeys become. Fresh
blood and more judgment used in the selection of breeding
stock will improve the stamina, and turkey chickens may—
nay, will—be bred and reared quite as easily as any other
farmyard fowls. The weight of a stock “gobbler” is not
of so much importance as the actual size of frame, which
must be large, and the bone strong in order to carry a
large amount of flesh. Great care should be taken that he
is not too fat, for when stock birds are too fat and heavy
they are not in the best condition for stock purposes.
Twenty-four to twenty-eight pounds is quite heavy enough
for a stock turkey cock. Very heavy gobblers frequently
do damage to the hens by tearing their backs with their
spurs. Jt is a good plan to cut the spurs or to file them
down until they are short and blunt. Some cocks (especially
when they are getting past their prime) are unsocial,
vicious, and tyrannical, and instead of leading the way in
quest of dainty morsels for the hens and inducing them to
follow and collect around him by repeated notes of invita-
tion, the surly bird attacks them without provocation, tears
the carunculated skin of the heads, and otherwise greatly
injures them. Let such a despot be deposed from his
eminence a8 soon as possible, or shut up in a house or pen
(especially prepared for him) during the day time, and only
allow him to run with the hens for an hour just before
roosting time. Do not allow him to go to roost with the
152

hens, but sbut him up in his own dormitory, or he will con-

tinue to persecute them. On the other hand, a young
gobbler in his prime will sometimes take a hatred to some
particular hen, in which case the persecuted hen should be
disposed of.

Unlike ordinary fowls, any number of hens, from four to
twelve, may be allowed to one cock, providing the roost and
range is sufficiently Jarge for their accommodation. It has
become an acknowledged fact that a single service is suffi-
cient to impregnate a whole batch of eggs. Therefore, six,
eight, or twelve hens may safely be allowed to run with one
gobbler. Some small breeders do not keep a stock cock,
but send their hens to some farmer who keeps one, and thus,
by paying a fee, save the cost of keeping a stock cock.
This practice may be right, if not carried too tar, but 1 do
not approve of it. As a rule the chicks are weak and
delicate when procured in this manner. It is much better
to allow your hens to remain with the cock during the
whole of the breeding season, for it is more natural and the
chickens are much stronger, proving that the strongest
germs (only) affect the eggs, Personally I prefer five or
six hens to a larger number, A stock turkey should on no
account be less than two years old, nor more than five, for
although some gobblerg retain all their fire and energy until
they are six and seven, still they are beyond their prime
after the fifth or sixth year, and may probably disappoint
the breeder if used after the fifth year, especially if he has
been used as a two-year-old or has been exhibited much.

There is a great difference between the weight of the
cocks and the hens. The latter often come to grief in
various ways by the injudicious use of a monster old gobbler
153

which has been mated with very ordinary: Lens. The hens
should, therefore, be proportionate in size, and not related
to the cock. If an error is made it should be in favour of
the hens. Those who wish to breed turkeys to an extra-
ordinary size should use fully-matured birds, three or four
years old (turkeys only one year old should on no account
be bred from). Stock hens should weigh at least 15lbs.
when in store condition. I like big turkey hens with plenty
of bone. They look as though they had good constitutions,
without which we cannot reasonably expect healthy progeny.
Do not lose sight of the fact that the turkey is not fully
matured until it is three years old. It will continue in its
prime for another two or three years under ordinary con-
ditions of life. We may, therefore, assume that from birds
between three and six years of age the strongest and best
chickens are bred. The black and white varieties might,
with advantage be crossed direct with each other, that is to
say, mate a black cock with white hens or vice verséd. Such
crosses would be to the mutual advantage of both breeds,
for, asa rule, they would breed true to colour, and as both
colours would be produced, they could by careful selection be
bred to a very much higher state of perfection and their
constitutions considerably improved.

Judge Caton, in a letter to the late Charles Darwin, says:
“That the wild turkey in the United States of America
does not breed when a year old, as domesticated turkeys
there invariably do.”
BREEDING AND INCUBATION.

YURKEYS do much better when divided or kept in small
families than when a great number are allowed to run
together, especially if they are required for breeding pyr-
poses. In providing eggs for hatching every effort should

 

be made to get the germ as strong as possible, and under
all circumstances care should be taken to promote this end,
Let the parent birds be of mature age, but not too old, and
perfectly healthy. Many amateurs take great pains and
make endless inquiries for the treatment and cure of sick
turkeys. My opinion on such pains and inquiries (when
expended on breeding stock) is that they are worse than
useless, and I fully believe that it would be to the advantage
of all breeders and add greatly to the value, size, and
stamina of the turkey, if a rule was made and kept never
to breed from a bird which is, or ever has been, unhealthy.
Stock birds should have perfect liberty. They cannot be
expected to breed in confinement, although the eggs may be
fertile. The chickens would have great difficulty, and the
chances would be against them arriving at a state of perfec-
tion. The hens begin to lay in March or April, the young
ones, of course, commencing first, but as their eggs are not
desirable for the production of fine birds it will be far
better to wait until the older hens begin to lay, although a
few weeks may apparently be lost at’ the beginning of the
season. This supposed lost time will be more than recovered
by the quick growth of your chickens hatched from the
eggs of matured birds.
155

Turkey hens are naturally very shy, and require some
attention at this period, otherwise they will steal their nests
in the most secluded places. Therefore, it is well to keep a
sharp eye on them; ample nesting accommodation should
be provided for them in their own house. If they are not
disturbed they may be induced to take to the nests provided
for them, with very little trouble. The eggs should be
removed daily, a nest egg being left, as in the case of other
poultry. Large American bacon boxes make capital nests
for turkeys. The hen evinces her desire to sit by per-
sistently remaining on the nest. If her nest is suitably
constructed and in a safe place, it is best to let her sit on
her own nest, especially if you can protect her from intrusion
of the other occupants of the house.

Before giving her the eggs it would be well to make the nest
properly for the purpose. A few pailsful of fresh moist earth
forming the foundation, taking care to fill all the corners
of the box, and do not make it too deep. On to the earth
scatter a bit of newly-slacked lime, and then make it com-
fortable with a bit of nice sweet hay. Put a few dummy
eggs under the hen for the first night, and when you find
she is settled to her work give her the eggs intended for
incubation. Turkey hens being persistent sitters, it is
sometimes desirable to lift them off the nest to feed, or
they would almost starve to death before they would leave
the eggs on their own accord. The sitting hen should come
off the nest to feed daily. It is well to see this is done at
some fixed hour. The time for incubation is twenty-eight
days, although some writers differ on this point to the
extent of four days. I think this variation can easily be
accounted for. The difference in the temperature of the
156

room or house in which the hen is sitting is sufficient to
account for a day either way. Agdin, some particular
strains arrive at maturity earlier than others, and this has
a tendency to shorten the period of incubation. Of this I
have had abundant proofs ; still the average time may justly
be put down at twenty-eight days.

If the eggs are all fresh when put under the hen they do
not vary much in the time of hatching. It is not wise to
sprinkle eggs with water, but if the season is a very dry '
and hot one, the outside of the nest may be freely watered
with warm water two or three times during the last fort-
night of incubation. When the eggs begin to hatch remove
the shells, and examine: those that have not hatched. This
is best done by lifting the hen’s breast with one hand and
carefully removing the shells with the other. She must not
be lifted off the nest for fear of exciting her and causing
much damage to the young brood. Do not be in a hurry
to remove the hen and her chicks from the nest, let them all
be thoroughly dry, and as naturally strong as it is possible
to get them, before you remove them to the coop. They
cannot do better in a coop than in the nest for fully twenty-
four hours after they emerge from the shell. A handful of
flour of sulphur may with advantage be scattered over the
chicks and in the nest in order to drive away insect pests.
Do not trouble to feed the chickens in the nest ; nature has
provided for their support for a given length of time after
their appearance. When you are satisfied that they are
perfectly dry, well on their legs, and ready for a change,
you may remove the hen and her brood to the coop, which
has already been prepared for their reception, as described
in the chapter on ‘Coops, etc.”
157

The coop should be removed daily, and cleaned regularly.
Fresh dry material should be put on the bottom, or cramp,
diarrhaa, apes, liver disease, or other maladies will soon be
manifest. Turkey chickens must be kept glean and dry.
The coop should be placed under a shed, or if the weather
is very fine it may be placed on nice short grass. It should
always be protected with hurdles interwoven with long
straw. These hurdles protect chickens considerably both
from wind, rain, and sun.

REARING AND FEEDING TURKEY
CHICKENS.

-

5 in turkey rearing ought not to be so much
dependent on the skill of the feeder, or on the manage-
ment of the chicks.

Turkey chicks ought to be reared quite as easily as geese,
and no doubt would be if breeders would use more care and
judgment in the selection of breeding stock. Need we be
surprised at turkey chicks being exceedingly delicate when
we take into consideration that a very great majority of the
early chicks are bred from parents two years before they
themselves have arrived at maturity ?

Farmers, ask yourselves the question, and if you cannot
solve the problem just refer to your horses, cattle, and
sheep. What sort of animals would be produced and what.
would their constitutions be if for a few successive years
foals: were bred out of two-year-old mares? The mares sold
at three years of age so that there would be nothing left..
158

but two-year-old mares for stock purposes, and these the
progeny of. two-year parents. I fancy such a system of
breeding would soon ruin the stamina and constitution of
the horse, and the foals would soon be as delicate and diffi-
cult to rear as turkey chickens.

The same remarks are applicable in the cases of cattle
and sheep. There is not the least doubt in my mind that
the turkey has suffered considerably both in size and consti-
tution by inbreeding and breeding from immature parents.
I do not think that this practice has been carried on beyond
redemption, therefore, if breeders will pay attention and
take my advice as given in the chapter on the selection of
stock, they may breed turkeys quite as strong, and as easy
to rear as any other kind of domestic poultry. Let it be
distinctly understood that my method of rearing turkeys is
calculated for those chickens which are hatched out of eggs
laid by hens of mature age, mated with a cock of a distinct
family also in his prime. The extra cost of keeping stock
birds until they are matured will be more than saved in’
labour and anxiety in the rearing of young stock. Not
only will your chickens require less labour (coddling and
pampering), but they will grow apace, and will arrive at
maturity for the market much easier.

Some writers assert that turkey chicks are very stupid and
silly little creatures. ‘There is no wonder that this should
be true, for the long process of inbreeding, etc., to which
the turkey has been subject has been quite sufficient to
affect their brains as well as the rest of their system. Do
not be uneasy about the little ones not eating, and do not on
any account cram them. The old wife's idea’ of giving them
‘pepper corns” is simply absurd and cruel. If your chicks
are bred from the class of parents that I have advised, their
159

natural instinct will induce them to eat soon enough. Their
first feed should consist of a fresh egg boiled for fifteen
minutes, a bit of beef suet, and a piece of stale bread or
biscuit. The egg and suet should be well chopped up, the
bread or biscuit nicely rubbed or crushed into small crumbs,
and then the whole lot well mixed together. A dry board or
old sack should be spread in front of the coop, and a few
crumbs thrown upon it. The hen will then induce her
family to come out from under her by repeated calls of
invitation to the dainty morsels. After she has succeeded
in doing so, scatter a little more of the food, letting some
fall on to the chickens’ backs, and if they are ready for their
food they will soon pick it up.

They should have access to a vessel of clean water to
drink. This should be so protected that they cannot stalk
into it, because damp is not good for them during the ‘first
six or eight weeks of their life. After the first day or two
green food of some kind should be added to the eggs, ete.
Onions, chives, lettuce, or dandelion leaves chopped up very
fine and mixed with their other food, will be found beneficial
to the health of your young turkeys. This food should be
continued for eight or ten days. A drink of new milk
given warm once or twice a day works wonders, and young
turkeys are very fond of it. A bit of sharp grit is also
a necessity and should be within easy reach of the chicks.
They should be fed quite as often as ordinary chickens; every

two hours from daylight to dark is not too often for the —

first fortnight. Care should be taken that there is no food
or milk left to go sour or diarrhea is sure to follow. The
water vessel should also be protected from the sun, for sun-
warmed water is most detrimental to the health of all kinds
of young chicks, and is often fatal to young turkeys.
160

When they are a fortnight old it is quite time to discon-
tinue the egg food, but as turkeys are not altogether
vegetarians, some other kind of nutritious food in the shape
of meat, to take the place of insects, etc., should form part
of their bill of fare, although one professed successful turkey
rearer condemns meat, and in its place recommends “ butter-
milk.”

Personally, 1 am a strong believer in flesh meat, and if you
wish to grow turkeys to any great size and perfection you
must supply them with a reasonable amount of animal food.
The best substitute for insect: matter that I have used is
‘“‘Spratt’s Patent Prairie Meat Crissell.”’ Young turkeys
grow amazingly when fed on it. When your chicks are
about three weeks old their diet should be biscuit meal well
scalded with milk, broth, or water, and dried up into a nice
crumbly mass with oatmeal, barley-meal, or thirds. If you
can get a bit of coarse meat (not fat) from your butcher,
you must boil it, chop it up small, then return it to the pan
and let it come to boiling point. You must then scald your
biscuit meal with the broth, let it stand sufficiently long to
scald and swell the biscuit meal thoroughly, and then dry
all up with a bit of oatmeal or ground wheat; give it to
your chicks whilst warm, and you will almost see them
grow. A bit of rice boiled in milk affords a healthy
change, and the chicks appreciate it very much. They are
also very fond of boiled milk and bread. A handful of
good wheat, a few groats or small seeds, such as canary,
mustard, millet, and only occasionally a bit of hemp or lin-
seed, may be given after they are a week old. Green food,
as described above, should be continued in abundance.
Both in their soft food and also separately you cannot give
them too much green food, so long as they eat it with
161

avidity, and that there is none left to wither and dry in the
sun.

From five to eight weeks old is a very trying time
for turkey chicks. If they are strong birds, and have been
well cared for, there need be no fear of bringing them
through. In order to do so successfully use a little more
stimulating food. Animal food of some kind or other should
be supplied, coarse beef or butcher’s offal of almost any
kind well boiled. Biscuit meal scalded with the liquid in
which the above meat has been boiled, and mixed dry with
ground wheat, barley, or oatmeal, will send them on apace.
As size is a consideration, you should supply them with
that class of food best calculated to make bone. No part
of the wheat or other grain should be kept from turkeys.
They require the husk as well as the kernel. A bit of
Indian corn is good as a change for turkeys. If you can
get good bone-meal, by all means add a little to their
soft food. The very white kind of bone-meal is of little
or no use, for all the nutriment has been boiled out of it.
I get raw bones from the butchers and have them ground,
If this kind of bone-meal were allowed to remain in the
sack, or in a large deep box, it would heat and become unfit
for the birds. It should be kept in shallow wuoden boxes,
and stirred up occasionally. After the birds are eight
weeks old four times daily will be sufficient to feed them.
Boiled vegetables may now form a ‘considerable portion of
their diet. They should be well boiled and mixed with the
meat and meal, as advised above, and given for their first
meal in the morning. Give a light feed of sound corn at
mid-day, repeat the morning meal during the afternoon, and
just before roosting time give a few oats, wheat, barley,

L
162

or Indian corn. Continue this kind of feeding until they
are three or four months old. After that three times daily
will be sufficient until you wish to send them to market.
If you feed as above you need not trouble to confine them
for the purpose of fattening, for when they are big enough
they will be fat enough.

Now, with reference to the mode of feeding, let me
impress upon the turkey breeder the importance of a proper
mode of feeding. I do not like troughs, still I prefer them
to the objectionable practice of throwing the food on to the
selfsame piece of ground from the first of January to the
thirty-first of December. A much better way is, however,
advisable. Take your food in a pail, no matter whether
soft food or hard corn. You must look for a clean piece of

_ grass and throw your food broadcast. Take care and do not
give too much at one time, and never throw your food twice
in the same place. There will be no waste by such a process,
every grain of corn will be found, and the birds will have
healthy exercise by the search for it.

PREPARING FOR EXHIBITION.

N order to exhibit turkeys to the best advantage it is

 

necessary to train them so that when they appear
before the judges and the public they will show their good
breeding by standing peacefully and quietly in their pens.
They will come to the front, and occasionally put their
heads through the wires, and sometimes spread their tails
and lower their wings as if aware of the fact that they have
been placed there for the express purpose of admiration, A
163

thorough training decides, to a great extent, the chances of
winning prizes. I have known turkeys sent to shows as
wild as sparrows. When the attendant has taken hold of
them to put them into their pens they have struggled
violently, and on many occasions I have known them to come
to grief. Large turkeys are sometimes very streng, and
unless the penman be an expert, not only do the birds
cause damage to their own bodies and plumage, but in some
cases injure the attendant. I have seen large cocks put
into their pens at some of our best shows, and the moment

they were out of the grasp of the penman, they would --

jump up to the top of the cage, and in more than one case
I have known them break the wires with which the pens
were fastened, and by so doing escape from the pen and
thereby necessitate a chase to effect recapture. This is not
always done without damage in some way or other. In
such cases wing and tail feathers are not always returned
to the owner in the same perfect condition as they were
when forwarded to the show, whereas a little training and
preparation would have prevented such accidents.

The more notice is taken of turkeys intended for exhibi-
tion, and the further we can remove them from the wild
state to perfect domestication—that is to say, the tamer we
can make them-—the better for ourselves and for their com-
fort. Notice young broods, also old birds, especially when
feeding. Carry a few tit-bits in your pocket, and whenever
you pass your birds scatter a few “‘seeds of kindness.”
Let your pail containing the food stand on the ground and
stand close by it whilst you are feeding. If any of your
birds come to eat out of the pail allow them to do so, and
occasionally put your hand gently on their backs; pat them
164

as you would a horse, or stroke them like a cat. Whichever
you do, you must get their confidence, so that they have no
fear of being approached or handled. It is a good plan to
enclose one of the sheds with large hurdles covered with a
piece of sheep netting for two or three weeks prior to the
show, drive them in and feed them there once daily, and
allow them to remain for an hour or two each day. A few
large pens, such as supplied by Spratts Patent for the
Exhibition of turkeys, are also useful. The size should be
about forty-two inches square, but if these pens are not
to hand, large boxes of similar dimensions with lathed fronts
will answer the purpose.

The advantage of five or six pens or boxes of this kind
are many. You can pen your birds in them for an hour or
two daily, and feed them therein for a week or so before the
show, and they will become reconciled to the conditions
which they will afterwards be subjected to. The training
pens should be arranged along the back of the shed, or in
any other building suitable for the purpose, with the front
of the pens to the light, which should not be too strong.
If they are elevated on a table a foot or eighteen inches high
it will afford a better opportunity for the attendant or the
owner to inspect the birds and compare one with the other.
I would not advise total confinement in their training pens,
nor even for a few days. It will be found very much better
to use them for an hour or two daily for a week or longer if
required. The bottoms of the pens should be well covered
with fine sand. Chaff or cut straw is not of much use for
birds which require training or taming. They often clap
their wings and make the chaff fly out of the pen, leaving
the bottom of the pen quite bare, therefore as sand is heavy
it is best for the purpose,
165

The birds cannot be visited too often when confined in the
shed or training pen. Neither can they be touched or hand-
led too often. Take a stick and tum them round in their
pens, and teach them to stand the operation of being judged.
Much as I like a heavy turkey I do not like the system of
weighing at exhibitions. My grounds for such objections are
many, but as there are a few points in favour of weighing, I
will not go further into detail in this matter than to say I
would not purchase or attempt to use a cock for stock
purposes which had been fed for the sake of weight at a
winter show. The exhibition turkey should have immense
frame and substance with perfectly straight breast bone. It
should be shown in good condition, but not fat. The
plumage must also be in the best condition. Now in order
to improve the condition of both, a little extra feeding with
more stimulating food may with advantage be given for two
or three weeks prior to the exhibition. The additional
ingredients I would advise are a little extra flesh meat or a
few good greaves (scrap-cake) and a little linseed two or
three times a week. It is not advisable to buil linseed. A
much better way of preparing it is to put half a pint of raw
linseed into a jar adding about a quart of cold water. Let
it stand for'twenty-four hours and then mix with the usual
soft food. Those who have not tried the difference between
boiled and soaked linseed will be surprised at the result. The
brilliant lustre it imparts to the plumage, when used for
about three weeks, is something wonderful. I find birds are
not so susceptible to cold when linseed is prepared and given
in this manner. A little more liberal allowance of grain
with the addition of a little (and only a little) hemp seed
may be given during the course of training, and as the birds
166

_ are only to be confined in the training pens for an hour or
two daily, there will be nothing more required except wash-
‘ing their heads and legs.

The best way to do this is to throw a rug or a large piece
of canvas over the back and wings of the bird. Tie it fast
round the body, bringing the legs backwards; as the head
and legs are left at liberty, the operation can then be easily
performed by one person. White turkeys will require wash-
ing all over, unless they happen to be kept under very
favourable circumstances. Should it be necessary to wash
a turkey do so thoroughly. Get a large tub or bath three
parts full of warm water, make a good soap lather, immerse
the body of the bird in the suds and don’t be afraid of using
the sponge freely ; also use your hands, rub well, and get the
dirt out. A bird will be far better left alone than half
washed. When you have thoroughly rubbed and sponged
the bird, and you are satisfied that you have got all the dirt
out, empty the soap suds and refill the tub with warm water,
as hot as that you have already used. Add to this second
tub of water 40z. of borax, and proceed to wash as before.
When you have succeeded in getting all the soap out of the
plumage, empty the water, and rinse well with cold water.
This will close the pores of the skin, and, to some ‘extent,
prevent the bird taking cold. After the rinsing let the bird
stand for a few minutes, using your hands to squeeze the
water out of the plumage. Then use the sponge for the
same purpose, and finish with a large towel, taking care to
rub the right way of the feathers. The bird may now be
placed in a large exhibition hamper before the fire, taking
care not to put it too near, or the heat will blister the
carunculated skin of the head.
167

Turkeys which require to be washed should always undergo
the operation at least two clear days before being despatched
to the exhibition. Just before sending a bird off give it a
good feed of hard corn and a little pure water. A cabbage or
a piece of stale bread may with advantage (to the bird) be
tied inside the hamper. Birds are frequently kept a long
time in their hampers, even if they do arrive at the place of
exhibition in reasonable time. I have known birds arrive
at some of our largest shows forty-eight hours before there
was any necessity for them. It is not wise to send birds
away from home too early, this practice being very detrimen-
tal to their health. They cannot, as a rule, be penned or
fed until all the arrangements are complete, and this does
not happen very early in the majority of cases.

Good strong wicker hampers, well-lined, should be provided
for exhibition turkeys. I find the oblong shape most
suitable. The size for cocks is about 46in. by 20in. and 30in.
high. For hens about 36in. by 18in. and 24in. high. These
hampers are lighter and more convenient to handle than the
round ones, and although the birds cannot conveniently turn
round in them I find they travel safer and better in them
than they do in the round ones. One half of the top should
be fast, the other half (being the lid) should be fastened with
one or two small straps.

Exhibition hampers should on no account be wired down
on their way to shows, or they may be seriously damaged
when opened. It is sometimes very annoying to find (on
the return of your birds from a show) that all the strings of
your new baskets have been cut, and that the canvas or lid
is now firmly fastened down with wire. Perhaps you have
no pliers and are obliged to use your pocket-knife and spoil
168

it, or cut the canvas in order to get your bird out. Whereas,
if your basket lid had been furnished with a strap there
would have been no such annoyance.

It is well upon the return of your birds from exhibition
to give them a light feed of soft food, a little bread and
boiled milk being the very best, or a bit of Spratts Patent
Poultry Meal scalded with milk. Instead of turning them
down on their usual run, keep them in one of your training
peus until the next day, when you will have satisfied your-
self that the bird is all right or otherwise. If he is all right
you may feed him in the usual way, and turn him out; but
if out of sorts he should be kept up and treated promptly.
Birds do not always return from shows ina healthy condition.
It is, therefore, as well to examine them thoroughly before
turning them out with other valuable stock.

 
 

AMERICAN BRONZE TURKEY COCK,

Winner of eight Cups and forty-two First and Special Prizes at
Crystal Palace, Birmingham, Liverpool, Dairy, and other large Shows

in the United Kingdom; the property of Daniel Thomas Armes,
East Tuddenham, East Dereham, Norfolk.
170

TURKEY CLUB'S

STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE.

(PUBLISHED BY PERMISSION.)

Breed. Variety.

Bronze.
TurKEY be ee ae ae White.

Black.

Symmetry,

Weight, ..

Condition,

Head, a os

Wattle, .. ee :
Neck—Shape 3, Color 8,
Back—Shape 3, Color 3,
Breast—Shape 4, Color 4, .. i3
Body and Fluff—Shape 4, Color 4,
Wings—Shape 4, Color 6, ..
Tail—Shape 3, Color 5,

Legs and Toes,

25

Cmrnrnnaa

1

o

Eo
171

BRONZE TURKEYS.

Disqualifications.

White feathers in any part of the plumage; wings clean black or
dark brown; color of back, tail, or tail coverts, clear black, brown, or
grey; decidedly nry tails; crooked breasts; deformity of any hina;
adult cocks neighing less than twenty-two pounds; adult hens
weighing less than fourteen pounds.

Standard Weights.
Cock, 2: a. «5 «s B4]bs; Hen, ....... .. «+18 Ibs.
Cockerel, .. ..  .. 22 Ibs. Pullet, ze we ae TIbs;

THE MALE.

Heap: Long, broad, carunculated, rich red:—Brax, strong,
curved, well set in the head, and in color light horn at the tip and
dark at the base:—Eyes, bright, clear, and in color dark hazel :—
Face anp Jaws, rich red.

WattLe: Large. pendent, and in color rich red.

Neck: Long and curving backward toward the tail; plumage, a
rich, lustrous, bronzy hue.

Back: Somewhat curving, rising from the neck to the centre and
then descending in a graceful curve to the tail; plumage, a brilliant
bronzy hue, which glistens in the sunlight like burnished gold, each
feather terminating in a narrow black band, which extends across the
end.

Breast: Broad and full; plumage, dark bronze, with a lustre in
the sunlight similar to that of burnished gold.

Bopy anp Fiurr:—Bopy, long, deep through the centre and
handsomely rounded ; plumage, black, beautifully shaded with bronze,
but not so decided or so rich as that of the breast :—Ft.urr, short.

Wines: Large and powerful:—Bows, black, with a brilliant
bronzy or greenish lustre: —Pxrimaries, black or dark brown, penciled
across with bars of white or grey, the more evenly and regularly the
better:—SrconpaRigs, black or dark brown, even and regularly
penciled across with bars of white or grey, the colors changing to a
bronzy brown as the centre of the back is approached, with but little
admixture of white ; an edging of white on primaries or secondaries
very objectionable :—Coverts, beautiful rich bronze, the feathers
terminating in a wide black band, forming a broad bronzy band
across the wings when folded, and separated from the primaries by a
glossy, black, ribbon-like mark, formed by the ends of the coverts.

Tait: Rather long, and in color black, each feather irregularly
penciled with narrow bands of light brown, and ending in a broad
black band, with a wide edging of dull white or gray :—Coverts,
black or dark brown, each feather irregularly penciled with narrow
172

bands of light brown, ending in a wide black and bronze band extending
across the feather, with a wide edging of dull white or grey ; the more
distinct the colors, throughout the whole plumage, the better.

Lees anp Tors:—Tureus, long and stout ; plumage, similar to
that of the breast, but the colors less rich and decided ;—Suanks,
large, long and strong ; in young birds, dark, approaching brown ; in
adult birds, usually of a pinkish hue or flesh-color:—Toss, straight,
strong, and in color the same as the shanks.

THE FEMALE.

The entire plumage is similar to that of the male, but the colors are
not so brilliant or clearly defined, and the edging of the feathers is
generally a dull white or grey.

 

WHITE TURKEYS.

Disqualifications.
Feathers other than white in any part of the plumage; decidedly wry
tails; crooked breasts; deformity of any kind; cocks weighing less than
eighteen pounds; hens weighing less than ten pounds.

Standard Weights.

Cock,,.. ..  ..  .. 26 Ibs. Hen, .. .. .. .. 16 lbs.
Cockerel, .. . .. 16 lbs. Pullet,.. ... .. .. 10 1bs,

THE MALE.

Heap: Long, broad, carunculated, rich red:—Brax, strong,
curved, well set in the head, and in color pinkish or tlesh :—Eyes,
bright, clear, and in color dark hazel: Face anp Jaws, rich red.

Wattle: Large, pendent, and in color rich red,

Neck: Long, and curving backward toward the tail.

Back: Somewhat curving, rising from the neck to the centre, and
then descending in a graceful curve to the tail.

Breast: Broad and full.

Bopy anp Fiurr:—Bopy, long, deep through the centre, and
handsomely rounded :—F.ver, short.

Wines :—Large and powerful.

Tait: Rather long.

Lees anp Tors :—Tuiens, long and stout :—Suanxs, large,
long and strong, and in color white, pinkish, or flesh-color :—Togs,
straight, strong, and in color same as the shanks,

Piumace: Pure white throughout, except the beard, which is

deep black.
THE FEMALE.
The entire plumage is similar to that of the male.
173

BLACK TURKEYS.

Disqualifications.
Feathers other than black in any part of the plumage; decidedly wry
tails; crooked breasts; deformity of any kind; cocks weighing less than
eighteen pounds; hens weighing less than twelve pounds,

Standard Weights.

Cock: sca ce ee BT TbS; Hens as ss 2: «2 IUSTbs.
Cockerel, .. .. .. 18 Ibs. Pullet,.. .. .. .. 12 Ibs.

THE MALE.

Heap: Long, broad, carunculated, rich ‘red,—Brax, strong,
curved, well set in the head, and in color dark horn or slaty black :—
Eyres, bright, clear, and in color dark hazel:—Facr anp Jaws, rich
red.

WarrLte: Large, pendent, and in color rich red.

Neck: Long and curving backward toward the tail,

Back: Somewhat curving. rising from the neck to the centre, and
then descending in a graceful curve to the tail.

Breast: Broad and full.

Bopr anp Fiurr:—Bopy, long, deep through the centre, and
handsomely rounded :—F.trr, short.

Wines: Large and powerful.
Tait: Rather long.

Lecs anp Tors: Tureus, long and stout :—Suanxs, large, long
and strong, and in color dark lead or slaty black .—Toss, straight,
strong, and in color the same as the shanks.

Puiumace: Lustrous black throughout.

THE FEMALE.
The entire plumage is similar to that of the male.
174

DISEASES:

SHALL not attempt to deal with the cure of diseases in

Ducks and Geese, but content myself with trying to

show my readers how to prevent discases from visiting their
little flocks.

CRAMP.—Cramp in Ducklings is the most fatal of
all diseases to which Waterfowl are subject. It is the fore-
runner of either death, deformity, or imperfection for life.--
It is frequently caused by improper feeding and coddling,
and by keeping them upon damp stone floors, or on the damp
ground at night. Feeding on improper food, and being de-
prived of green food, grit, and water to swim in is often the
cause of indigestion, which in many cases is the immediate
cause of Cramp.

The Crop of the Duck is intended by nature to, prepare
the food for the gizzard to grind, when thoroughly mixed
with the ingredients which digest it, therefore it should be
remembered that it is absolutely necessary, especially when
using an extra quantity of soft food, to supply your birds
with an abundance of grit and green food, to keep their di-
gestive organs in proper working order.

Cramp is the most manifest symtom of other diseases. —
The digestive organs once weakened, general debility follows
upon the slightest provocation. Over crowding, damp floors,
and improper food are the chief causes of cramp. Ducks
and Geese, like most other birds and animals, are invigorated
by fresh air and water. Their limbs and muscles must have
exercise, and if a proper system of “ Housing and Feeding”’
be carried out, there will be no Cramp.
175

Prevention is better than cure, and I would prefer
setting another batch of eggs and rearing a fresh lot of
ducks or geese than I would attempt to cure one single
bird of cramp, for they are seldom good for anything if
even they appear to be cured. Therefore I would advise
the cause to be removed Make their house dry and com-
fortable, especially the floor Observe perfect cleanliness
in all your arrangements, and let your ducks and geese
have liberty, water, and exercise, then you will effect
more than can be done by any medical treatment.

SOFT EGGS.—Waterfowls are sometimes trouble-
some during winter and early spring by laying soft eggs,
which of course are of no use for incubation. To prevent
these soft eggs, always place within easy reach of your
birds an abundant supply of old mortar, burnt oyster
shells, shell gravel, ashes, etc.; and if you have a stream,
and the flow of water is not a very large one, throw a
lump of fresh lime into it once or twice a week, or if you
have a pond, put afew lumps of lime in it, and do zot
overfeed. Don’t give them any animal food at all if you
are troubled with soft eggs.

EGG-BOUND.—This is very rare in young birds,
although it does occur sometimes. The best way to
prevent this is to feed your birds well and wisely. Good
sound food of a nutritious, but not a fatty, nature. Let
them have plenty of exercise.

GIDDINESS, or STAGGERS.—A recent
writer tells us that a duckling’s skull is so very thin that
the sun seems to affect the brain very soon, and still he
tells us that ducklings will do as well without water as
with it for ten weeks, Good gracious! It is enough to
176

make us ask the question—Did that writer ever keep a
duck? Or has some one told him that ducks will do as
well without water as with it. If my readers wish to
avoid giddiness, staggers, leg weakness, liver diseases, and
many other ailments incidental in duck-keeping, they
will do well to give their birds a reasonable supply of
sound food, plenty of fresh air, exercise, and clean water
to drink and swim in, together with a comfortable house
to sleep in and a good bed of clean straw to lie upon.
If you attend to my remarks in this article, vendors of
medicine for ducks, etc., will not make a fortune, for
there will be no medicine required.

Should you by accident have a bird cut or torn in any
way, the wound should be dressed with Condy’s Fluid or
Carbolized Oil, and if necessary the wound may be sewn
up with s fine needle and silk; but unless the bird is a
valuable one, kill if in preference.

No doubt some of my readers will be surprised and
disappointed at not finding a chapter devoted to the diseases
to which the turkey is subject. My first excuse for the
omission of such a chapter is simply because I am no doctor,
and to the owners of sick birds who wish to doctor them as
a matter of kindness, I would advise them to procure a copy
of Mr. Woodroffe Hill’s ‘‘ Diseases of Poultry.” Asa matter
of economy I do not believe in attempting to cure sick
turkeys, for a sick one, if cured, will never be as good as a
healthy one, either as a stock bird or for the table. A
healthy turkey can be hatched and reared with as little
trouble and expense as is often bestowed on an attempt to
cure a sick one. The observance of a few simple rules will
benefit the farmer and fancier more than a whole volume of
advice on the diseases of the turkey.
177

Observe, then, that your roosting houses are constructed
on proper principles, see that they are light and airy, but
without draughts, look to your sheds for shelter during the
day time, and see that the roof is kept in good condition,
and that the floor is constantly supplied with sand, ashes,
and old mortar. Attend well to the chicken coops. Keep
them free from dirt and vermin, Remove all excrement from
the roosting house, sheds, and coops (daily, if possible).
Feed your turkeys well and wisely. Judicious feeding,
perfect cleanliness, regularity, and punctuality must be
observed.

An idea prevails with many farmers that any kind of corn
will do fur turkeys. This is a great mistake. Those who keep
large flocks know better, and invariably use the best. Scores
of young turkeys pine away and die between the age of
six and twelve weeks for want of sufficient nutriment.
Dysentery, cramp, spasms, and other diseases attack them,
their impoverished systems beiog destitute of stamina.

These diseases, aggravated by cold and wet, very soon
reduce a grand flock of turkey poults. Therefore do not
keep turkeys if you cannot keep them properly.
INDEX.

—>o——.

Preface ..
Introduction se
Houses for Breeding Ducks.
Duck Houses and Enclosures
Ponds ... eed :
How to Begin
Selection of Stock
Modern Aylesbury Ducks ..
Schedule for Judging do. .
Modern Rouen Ducks __... 5
Colour of Drake (Rouen)... —_
Do. Ducks..
samen: = a Judging Rouen Drakes
do. Ducks..
Mista Palin Ducks 8 a
Schedule for Judging ditto
The Cayuga Duck :
Schedule for Judging ditto
Breeding di
Incubation
Breeding and Rearing Ducklings for Exhibition
Do. do. for Market
Method of Killing ‘
How to Treat Ducks when. Moulting
Preparing and ee Ducks in Condition for Exhibition
‘Trimming 4
Exhibiting
Transit
Penning
Cramming ...
The Question of Profits—rst Vear .
Do. ond Vear
Do. 3rd Year..,
Preface (for meee sje sa
Geese
Do. Toulouse. :
Schedule for Judging ditto
Embden Geese ...
Schedule for Judging ditto...
Breeding and Rearing Geese for Exhibition ..
Geese for Table and Market Purposes
How to improve the Turkey as
Selection of Breeding Stock (Turkey) aes
Rearing and Feeding Turkey Chickens we
Turkey Club’s Standard of Excellence
Diseases wee

118
122
124
127
128
133
141
149
157
170
174
ADVERTISEMENT.

 

THe AUTHORS

LATEST SUCCHSS

IN 1892.

 

Henry LDcey’s

Aylesbury Ducks and Geese at the
late Crystal Palace Show won the
Silver Cup for the best pen in all
the Aylesbury classes. Also the
Stlver Cup for the best Gander or
Goose in the Show, and the Ten
Guinea Challenge Cup for the best
Gander or Goose bred in 1892.

THE BURNE,
BIRCHENCLIFF,

HUDDERSFIELD,
ADVERTISEMENTS |

AYLESBURY DUCKS,

OOOO

HIS Champion strain won the Challenge Cup at

Liverpool three years in succession; also the Cup

at the Great National Show, Crystal Palace, London,
for four years in succession.

Birds from these yards have won upwards of 1000
Cups, Medals, and First Prizes during the last four
years. and are pronounced “by all the leading Poultry
Journals” to be the most typical Aylesbury Ducks in
existence. Hundreds of unsolicited testimonials and
quotations could be published in favour cf Stock and
Eggs from these yards, but the excellency cf my stock
is so well known that further comment is unnecessary.

EGGS FOR HATCHING, from two selected pens,
21/- for Eleven, and from the remaining stock 1/- each.
“No wasters kept.” If less than six hatch, second
sitting half-price.

EXHIBITION AND STOCK BIRDS FOR SALE
at prices according to quality and requirements.

HENRY DIGBY,

“THE BURNE,” BIRCHENCLIFF,
HUDDERSFIELD.
ADVERTISEMENTS.

WM. BYGOTT

Has always on hand

HIGH-CLASS ROUEN DUCKS

— AND —

TOULOUSE CEESE.

———r 0 be0-0-——

HE Cups, Specials, and Medals won annually by his
ROUENS at all the leading exhibitions, including
The Royal Agricultural Society of England’s Shows,
London Dairy Shows, Crystal Palace, and Birmingham,
and the high prices of ten, fifteen, twenty, and twenty-five
pounds each realized by a score of noted winners, including
Challenge Cup Ducklings, is a sufficient proof of the in-
trinsic value of these strains.

W. B. can always supply Drakes and Ducks unrelated,
as they are bred in several companies. Many noted
breeders and exhibitors having had their stocks from these
yards for several years now, with exceptionally good
results, both as regards breeding and exhibiting.

—— 2 F

RYEMILL FARM, ULCEBY,
LINCOLNSHIRE.
ADVERTISEMENTS.

 

6
Champion Aylesbury Ducks.
The ONLY Champion Aylesbury Ducks which
succeeded in winning absolutely

THE FIRST AND ONLY
CHALLENGE CUP

offered for competition up to date of publishing this
work, were bred by the Author,

ELE NRY DIiGBEY.,
AT

THE BURNE, BIRCHENCLIFF,

 

D. BRAGG,

Breeder of Toulouse and Embden
Geese, Rouen Ducks, Cuckoo Ban-
tams, Dark Rose Comb and Cuckoo

Dorkings, |

SOUTHWAITE HALL

CARLISLE,

 

y
ADVERTISEMENTS.

 

SECOND EDITION.
ea ge a

NOW READY.

POULTRY KEEPING 1.

AS AN INDUSTRY FOR FARMERS
AND COTTAGERS,

By EDWARD BROWN,. PLS,
—————— i

WITH COMMENDATORY LEPTERS ‘FROM

HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY THE QUEEN.
H.R.H. THE PRINCESS OF WALES.
Tue Ricut Hon. W. E. GLADSTONE, M.P. -
Tur COUNTESS OF ABERDEEN.

. Tae PRESIDENT OF THE BOARD OF AGRICULTURE ‘
(Brent Hon. HENRY CHAPLIN, M.P.):

es VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE COUNCIL OF HDT EATON,
: (Sim W. HART-DYKE, Br., M.P.)

"JAMES MACDONALD, Esq., (Agricultural oa
- moe Dublin ‘Society, etc., etc.) °

"CONTAINS FOURTEEN PLATES

' By LUDLOW, ‘ eke
‘AND NEARLY FIFTY OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS. 1

Mr. HENRY DIGBY (Author of “ How to Make £50, per year
by Keeping Ducks”) writes :—‘ Your book is a masterpiece and
just the thing required for that class of the community for whom

it isiwritten. * * * It is, full of that useful aera of
which the fanciers’ books are short.”

‘Price, SIX SHILLINGS (Post Free)
Cloth, Gold Lettered.

 

LONDON:
THE FANCIERS’ GAZETTE, Limited,

54 TO 57, IMPERIAL BUILDINGS, LUDGATE CIRCUS, E.C.
ADVERTISEMENTS.

 

ROUEN DUCKS.
THOMAS WAKEFIELD'S

AVE won hundreds of Cups
and Prizes during the last

 

ten years, including the Challenge
Cup at the Crystal Palace, 1892.

STOCK & EXHIBITION BIRDS

ALWATYWTS ON SALE.

EGGS FOR SITTING IN SEASON.

PPI

 

Address—
TMOS. WAKEFIELD,

GOLBORN,
NEWTON-LE-WILLOWS.
ADVERTISEMENTS.

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Excellent Articles on all phases of Poultry-keeping.
Highly-artistic Illustrations of noted Prize Winners.
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‘«‘ FOWLS” is the only Journal dealing with Poultry only that gives
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* FOWLS” is the only Journal dealing with re only that has
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« FOWLS” is the only Journal dealing with Poultry that has a 2 Young
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‘FOWLS” has more Advertisements from persons wishing to pur-
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SOME PRESS OPINIONS.

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‘FOWLS” is published every Thursday; PRICE, ONE PENNY‘
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Offices: 30 & 31, New Bridge Street, Ludgate Circus, London, E.C.
__ ADVERTISEMENTS.

a pustletized! and Testimonials free. } -

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Latest and Best.

$$. SOUTHWORTH & CO.’S
CATTLE CONDIMENT,

Annihilates Disease. Stimulates the Appetite. Gives
Tone to the System and keeps Farm Stock in Perfect
Health and Condition.

S. Southworth & Co., Huddersfield.

G. R. WARD & CO.,

Show and General Prac
58, SOUTH CASTLE STREET,

LIVERPOOL,

OP APA AA PAA LA LOA DOD

ALL REQUISITES FOR AGRICULTURAL SHOWS.

 

 

 

THE NEW MANIFOLD BOOK FOR ENTRIES,

A BOON TO SECRETARIES,

THE NEW JUDGING BOOK,

As used and approved of by the Judges at the Middleton, Altrincham, Liverpool, * :
Birkenhead, Royal, Manchester, and all the leading Shows.

Price 6d. each, or 5s. 6d. per dozen. Postage for 6, 43d.
 

 

 

 

 

 

EVERY FRIDAY, PRICE 2p.

EVERYBODY WHO KEEPS
DOGS,
POULTRY,
PIGHONS orn
RABBITS,

SHOULD READ
“THE STOCK-KEEPER.”

IT CONTAINS

Che Fullest and West ieports of all Shotws.

 

 

 

“The Stock-keeper” is the Best Guide for Breeders and Exhibitors of
Dogs, Poultry, Pigcons, etc. To be had of all Newsagents and Book-

Offices :—169, FLEET STREET, E,C,

 
ADVERTISEMENT,

JOSEPH PARTINGTON,

BREEDER AND] EXHIBITOR OF
HIGH CLASS

ROUEN AND PEKIN DUCKS

AS always for disposal birds of each variety,

 

either for Exhibition or Stock purposes, at

prices according to quality.

Ducks from this yard have had a most success-
ful career during the last five years, having won
the Challenge Cup for three years in succession ;
also Champion Polands, Gold, Silver, and Black,
with white crest, both Cocks and Hens at prices
according to quality. Has won Cup at Birmingham
and Crystal Palace for six years in succession,
together with upwards of 1,000 Cups, Medals, and
First Prizes at all the principal Shows.

VICARS HALL,
BOOTHSTOWN,
Via MANCHESTER.
ADVERTISEMENTS.

TOULOUSE GEESE.

Y Toulouse Geese have been most successful
during the last three years, taking two firsts
and cup, Manchester; two firsts and cup, Liverpool;
two firsts and cup, Bristol; first at the Royal, at Windsor;
first and cup, Halifax; first, Sheffield; first, Walsall;
first, Worsley; first, Altrincham; two firsts and the
silver medal at the Dairy Show, London; two firsts and
cup, Crystal Palace; first, Thorne; first and second,
Royal Manchester and Liverpool, at Crewe; first,
Birkenhead; first, Leicester; and many other minor
honours too numerous to mention.

THEY ARE THE IMPROVED TYPE OF TOULOUSE.

 

A limited number of Eggs to dispose of
at 3/6 each.

 

Stock and Exhibition Birds for Sale
during the season at prices to suit
buyers.

 

 

HENRY DIGBY,
“THE BURNE,; BIRCHENCLIFF,

HUDDERSFIELD.
ADVIRTISEMENT.

 

DANIEL THOMAS ARMKS,

BAST TUDDENHAM,
EAST DEREHAM,
NORFOLK,
BREEDER OF LARGE

AMERICAN BRONZE TURKEYS

FROM

FIRST PRIZE WINNERS

HALTON EXHIBITION, GUELPH, ONTARIO,
CANADA;

Crystal Palace, Birmingham, Dairy, Liverpool,
Bury, Yarmouth, Norwich,

Peterborough, Birkenhead, Ayr, Swansea, &c.

SOME GRAND BIRDS FOR SALE.
EGGS IN SEASON.
ADVERTISEMENT.

MRS. F. DAVIS,

Breeder and Exhibitor of

 

HIGH CLASS

Pekin and Cayuga Ducks,

Has always birds for disposal at prices according

to quality, either for stock or exhibition.

Birds from this yard have succeeded in
winning the highest honours for the above
varieties, including the Challenge Cup at Liver-
pool, Cups Crystal Palace, and First and Special

Prizes too numerous to mention.

Address—
WOOLASHILL,
PERSHORBE.
ADVERTISEMENT.

JOHN W. LILL,

(Hon. Sec. of the Turkey Club)
IMPORTER, BREEDER, AND EXHIBITOR OF
AMERICAN

Mammoth Bronze Turkeys,

Winners of Prizes at all the important Shows in _
England and America, which for size. colour, and hardi-
ness of constitution cannot be excelled,

Flas always for sale at reasonable
prces GRAND BIRDS either
for Exhibition or breeding purposes.

200 Young Birds ready after Sept. ist.
All Eggs for sale after May ist at 1s. each.

TURKEYS IMPORTED.
PRICES ON APPLICATION.
GOLDEN WYANDOTTES.—Eggs 7s. 6d. per dozen.

BUFF WYANDOTTES.—A limited number of Eggs
only at 21s. per dozen.

BLACK MINORCAS.—Eggs 5s. per dozen.

Golden Wyandotte and Black Minorca Eggs are
reduced one-half on and after May 1st.

Young Birds for sale from all varieties after
September 1st each season. Inspection invited.
Jlddress—
JOHN W. LIL,
MARTIN DALES,

LINCOLN.

 

 
All requisites for Agricultural Shows.

THE NEW MANIFOLD BOOK FOR ENTRIES,

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WORKS :—
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ji as

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Price 6d. each, or 5/6 per'doz. Postage for 6, 44d.
ADVERTISEMENTS.

IF YOU WISH TO SUCCEED
DUCK BREEDING,

USE

SPRATTS PATENT
POULTRY MEAL.

In Sealed Bags, and 3d. and 4d. Sample Packets, Per cwt. 20s., per -
half-owt. 10s. 6d., per quarter cwt. 5s, 6d., per 14-lb. 2s. 9d., per 7-lb.
1s. 6d.

Give during Severe Weather increased proportion of

 

 

PRAIRIE
MEAT

A Preparation of Meat taking the place of Insect Food.
See you get it in Sealed Bags,

Per cwt. 268., per half-cwt. 13s. 6d., per quarter-cwt. 7s., per 14-Ib.
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» Post Free,

Contains full and practical information on Poultry Rearing,
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LehvertisEMEY Ts.

SPRATTS PATENT

LIMITED,
MANUFACTURERS OF ALL KINDS OF

POULTRY AND PIGEON APPLIANCES.

No. 169. HOUSE FOR DUCKS.

Ke lx { HIS House is suitable for
i eo iM \ placing against a pond or
stream. It is divided in the
centre, and each compartment
is fitted with nests, sliding doors
j at front as shown, and large
=. doors at back for access to in-
terior. It is well painted (three
= coats), and lime-whited inside.
Price 45s. carriage paid.

 

 

 
 
 
   
  
 

Size, 6ft. inves eft, 6in. wide, 3ft. high.

POULTRY HAMPERS OF ALL KINDS,
FOR DUCKS, GEESE, FOWLS, PIGEONS, ETC.,

 

 

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i

; ie m 3 ¥
A pain EI eee Retest

yet ayolbliy

ike ala a
” Tene

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