a a New Yurk State Cullege of Agriculture At Qoruell University Ithaca, N. Y. ] pees Library HN PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING (above) Young Belgian Hare Buck (below) Mother and Daughter—Blue Imperials PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING BY EDWARD I. FARRINGTON Author of “The Home Poultry Book.’’ ey NEW YORK ROBERT M. McBRIDE & CO. 1919 Copyright, r919 by ROBERT M. McBRIDE & COMPANY Printed in the United States oy Amentea. (Second Printing August, 1919) Published June, 1919 CONTENTS CHAPTER I II Til IV Vv VI VII VUI IX XI XII II XIV XV Wuy To RalseE Rassirts. A Littie Rapsit History Tue Best Rassits For Meat THE So-caLLED Fancy Rassits . Rassits as Pets For CHILDREN . How To Becin Rappit KEEPING. . Houses, HutcHES AND YARDS THE GENERAL CARE OF RABBITS . Wuat AND How To FEED SimpLe Ru tes For BREEDING RaIsING THE YOUNG STOCK . EXHIBITING AND SELLING PREPARING RABBITS FoR THE TABLE . RABBIT FuRS AND THEIR VALUE . Wuen Ragsits ARE Out oF CONDITION. APPENDIX INDEX i. cee die oth! deo BE PAGE 16 24 4I 46 55, 74 80 96 115 125 136 146 153 167 THE ILLUSTRATIONS Young Belgian Hare Buck Mother and Daughter— . . . Frontispiece Blue Imperials Pair of Young Himalayans . . facing page 24 An English Rabbit . . . . . ” "24 White Giant and Her Offspring . . ” ” 40 So-called Black Siberian Doe . . . ” ” 40 Well-arranged Commercial Rabbitry . ” "56 Type of Convenient Outdoor Hutch . ” 92 ‘Well-marked Dutch Rabbit . . . ” ” 120 English Lop-eared Rabbit ee. Mah, egy Oe ” 120 Hutchesin Three Tiers . . . . ” ” 136 The Right Way to Lifta Rabbit . . ” ” 152 Register Number Tatooed on Ear. . ” ” 152 vil PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING Chapter I. WHY TO RAISE RABBITS. OME twenty years ago the United States S and Canada experienced what is still spoken of as the Belgian Hare boom. Small fortunes were made and lost in the breeding of these rabbits—for true rabbits they are, the name of hare being a misnomer. Elaborate breeding houses were constructed, hundreds of animals were imported and such prices as fifty and one hundred dollars for single rabbits were common. Now this boom was largely artificial, built up by a few breed- ers with stock to sell and kept going by the repeated assurances of these breeders that all surplus stock could be sold for meat at profit- able prices. In point of fact there was very little demand for rabbit meat apart from that I 2 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING of wild rabbits, large numbers of which are always offered every winter. When this was discovered the bottom dropped out of the boom and rabbits which had been worth fifty dollars one day were worth hardly five the next. The public was not ready for rabbit meat as a steady diet at that time, as other kinds of meat, including poultry, were com- paratively cheap and plentiful. Nevertheless, a large number of people con- tinued to keep rabbits in a small way, some of them because they had become fond of the meat and found they could produce it at very low cost, and others because they enjoyed mak- ing pets of the handsome little animals. Now another and healthier development of the industry is being felt all over the land, fostered to a great extent by the high cost of living. Rabbit meat is the cheapest meat that can be raised, not excepting poultry. It is meat of excellent quality, too, and can be prepared for the table in many ways. Many of the advertisements in regard to the remarkable fecundity of the rabbit are mis- leading yet it is a fact that the animals. mul- tiply very rapidly. A doe can have five litters WHY TO RAISE RABBITS 3 a year without draining her vitality and she may be fairly expected to raise six youngsters from each litter, which makes a total of thirty. This may be done when starting with only a single animal, the doe being purchased after having been bred. The cost of raising the young rabbits will vary with the location and amount of food purchased. Six cents a pound is often set down as an average. Many breeders claim that they get their rabbits to market size for several cents less per pound, and if they have a garden doubtless they do, as much of the food eaten by the animals can be raised at home. It has been estimated that the cost of maintaining a mature rabbit for a year when all the food must be purchased is about one dollar. The majority of amateur rabbit keep- ers have a little land and expect to feed their animals largely on garden stuff, in winter as well as in summer, carrots, parsnips and other vegetables which can be stored for winter use being grown. Less space is required for rabbits than for chickens, and if they are kept in hutches, they will not occupy ground needed for growing 4 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING crops. Rabbits demand but comparatively. little care, although they must be kept clean and fed regularly. At present there is a con- siderable demand for breeding stock in most communities, it being possible to sell a suffi- cient number of breeders to pay all the cost of raising the rabbit meat consumed on the table. Indeed, many breeders have only the poorest specimens left for food, but this situation can- not be expected to last and the industry must eventually become established on a meat basis. Across the water an enormous demand for rabbit meat has been created by the war. Even before the war came Great Britain imported 10,000 or 12,000 tons. When the supply from the continent failed and shipments from Australia were cut off for lack of ships, the English people began raising their own rab- bits and rabbit hutches were to be found in back yards everywhere. Now the business of raising rabbits for food seems to have been established on a permanent basis in England, as it has been on the continent for many years. The extent to which interest in rabbit keeping has spread throughout the United States and Canada may be judged by visiting the shows, WHY TO RAISE RABBITS 5 where hundreds of animals are entered and where instruction in preparing them for the table is given. More advertisements are ap- pearing in the papers than ever before, more commercial rabbits are being seen in the markets and more are served in restaurants and hotels. The industry has persisted to a greater degree in California than anywhere else, but rabbit keeping has become common everywhere and some large plants have been established. In past years immense quantities of rabbit fur have been imported from Australia by hat makers and a considerable number of skins have been brought in by furriers. It has been difficult to get these people interested in American offerings because no large amounts could be purchased in single lots. American skins are being bought to an increasing extent, however, and this branch of the business has much promise. When an amateur rabbit keeper has only a few pelts he can tan them and have them made up into furs for his own family. All this applies to the utility side of rabbit keeping, and that is the side which interests 6 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING the average beginner. There is another side, however, which is called the fancy, that being rather a poor name for the keeping of rabbits for pleasure and for exhibition. Fanciers are much more numerous than ds commonly real- ized, many professional and business men as well as working men keeping a few fine an- imals for recreation and amusement. The breeds usually kept for utility purposes are Belgian hares, Giant rabbits of different kinds and New Zealand Reds. Fanciers, how- ever, find many other breeds to choose from, some of them like the Lop Eared Rabbits and the Angoras requiring very careful handling. Fanciers naturally charge much more for their animals, if the stock is good, than do breeders who confine themselves to utility rabbits. An animal that can win ata show is highly prized. Competition at many of the shows is very keen and the greatest skill must be exercised to produce winners. It As a form of recreation in which great delight: is taken. The breeders of different kinds of rab- bits have their associations and enjoy getting together to talk over the ins and outs of the game. WHY TO RAISE RABBITS 7 Naturally enough many fanciers also sell utility rabbits and food animals, especially if they happen to be breeders of Belgian hares, Giants or New Zealands. Only a few of all those raised will: be of the highest type and some outlet for the culls is needed. It often happens that breeders who start with utility stock and no high aspirations eventually be- come ardent fanciers. This is a fascinating side of rabbit keeping and is appealing to an in- creasingly large number of men, especially as speculators and dishonest breeders are being curbed and opportunities for redress presented through the medium of a national association. Finally there is the keeping of rabbits for pets by children. Pet rabbits have been pop- ular with boys from a time which extends much farther back than the oldest of us can remember. The rabbits most often seen are little pink-eyed white creatures which all too often move along to the rabbit Heaven in a very short time. If your boy wants to keep rabbits get him some other kind, for these have many faults and few virtues. Belgian Hares, Dutch rabbits, New Zealand Reds, Check- ered Giants, and Himalayans will be found 8 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING much more satisfactory. Many boys and some girls are able to make considerable money by selling rabbits, and there are few animals which make better pets. Chapter IT. A LITTLE RABBIT HISTORY UCH confusion is encountered when M we undertake to trace the history of the Belgian hare, and many of the other popular breeds. In the first place, the Belgian hare and the other so-called hares in captivity are not hares at all, but true rabbits. Real hares are not easily domesticated, and would be of little value in any event. The Belgian hare probably was given that name because in alert expression and general ap- pearance it somewhat suggested the wild hare. The differences between hares and rabbits are so marked that there is no ground for a mis- take. Hares are born with their eyes open and covered with fur. In a very short time they are running about. Rabbits, on the other hand, are born blind and naked. They remain perfectly helpless for some days, and it is sev- eral weeks before they become active. 9 10 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING Probably all the fancy rabbits are descended from the common wild rabbit (Lepus Cuni- culus). That this is true seems demonstrated by the fact, as pointed out by an English authority, C. J. Davies, that reversion on crossing is always to the wild color, that all varieties cross freely and the progeny are fer- tile together or with either parent, and that wild rabbits can be reared and crossed with tame rabbits. Very ancient history contained mention of domestic rabbits. They seem to have been known in China for several] centuries B. C. Some new breeds have come into being in a haphazard way, while others have been de- liberately made. The English fanciers are responsible for three or four distinct breeds, some of them produced from native animals, although there is reason to believe that at least a little outside blood was introduced in most cases. The large Lop-eared rabbit is supposed to be wholly an English creation. The Eng- lish breeders have been especially concerned with fancy stock. On the continent, on the other hand, more attention has been given to the production of utility rabbits, especially A LITTLE RABBIT HISTORY 11 those capable of producing high class fur. The Argent de Champagne is one of the best examples of what the French have done in this direction. The fur of this rabbit is of such excellent quality that large quantities were be- ing shipped to other countries before the war broke out. Probably this industry will be quickly built up again. Certainly rabbits are having an important place in the rehabilita- tion of France and Belgium. While hares seem to stand the very cold climates, rabbits, as a rule, thrive best in the warmer countries. Most kinds, though, can be gradually inured to very cold weather. Thousands of rabbits have been raised in the European countries to one in the United States and Canada. At least this was the case up to a very few years ago, and until the high price of meat began to stimulate interest in a source which promised to help in cutting the high cost of living. The peoples of Europe have found meat much less plentiful than those of this country, and accordingly have been com- pelled to the cultivation of rabbit keeping on an extensive scale. It is said that England uses from twenty-five to thirty million pounds 12 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING of rabbit meat every year. In France, Bel- gium and Germany, rabbits are eaten every- where as a matter of course. When English people talk about rabbits they often use the old name, coney, which has been applied by furriers to certain skins. The origin of some of the fancy rabbits is fairly well known. The Flemish Giant, for example, is a native of Belgium or Flanders, from which place it found its way into other parts of Europe. Since the organization of a Flemish Giant club in England, it has been greatly improved, but the blood of other breeds has been introduced to some extent, which accounts for the many different colored specimens found. Occasionally, with the newer breeds, new classes must be eStablished by the standard makers. This has been so in the case of the Gray Flemish, which will now be given a separate place. The exact origin of the Belgian hare has been the subject of controversy for many years, and sometimes this controversy has waxed decidedly warm. That it actually orig- inated in Belgium nobody can positively say. Some breeders have gone so far as to claim A LITTLE RABBIT HISTORY 13 that it came from India. For a while it was considered necessary in this country to call it the Belgian hare rabbit, although, of course, that was a ridiculous mixture of names. The idea was to have people realize that it was really a rabbit. It does not owe all of its im- proved color to English breeders, for much has been done in this country in the last twenty years. The original color probably was a common gray. There is reason to believe that the Belgian hare and the Flemish Giant are both descendants of the old Patagonian rabbit, and the difference in coloring as well as in size is due solely to the manner in which the two lines have been handled. Sometimes the name of a rabbit is a fairly safe index as to its origin. Thus the Hima- layan rabbit probably came from the Hima- laya Mountains. It has long been a popular rabbit on the continent, being raised largely for its fur, which when properly cured resem- bles ermine. The English rabbit, too, is correctly named. The popular theory is that it is an outgrowth of the common English rabbit. It is a very hard rabbit to breed to perfection, and that a4 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING probably is one reason why it is so little known in America. The finest specimens in the coun- try are being produced by breeders in Massa- chusetts, New York and New Jersey. Coming to the breed which it so very much resembles, the American Spotted Giant, we find serious difficulty in determining its an- cestry. It was formerly known as the German Checkered Giant, but when the world war put a ban on everything German, its name was changed by popular approval to American Spotted Giant. This seems to have been a perfectly safe thing to do, for there is no good evidence to show that Germany had anything to do with its origin. It has been found of late years that German names have been tacked to a great many things to which it had no claim. Dutch rabbits are better known than many other kinds, and their name seems to be justi- fied. At least they have been bred in Holland for a long time, and have been used there for meat, although in this country they are con- sidered strictly a fancy rabbit. Some breeders use them as nurse does as they are excellent milkers and mothers. A LITTLE RABBIT HISTORY 15 Lop-eared rabbits are most commonly con- sidered as English creations. There is, how- ever, a French lop-eared rabbit also, but it is smaller both in body and in the size of its ears. The English lop-eared rabbit seems to be all English, and distinctly a manufactured breed. Angora rabbits came probably from Persia, where long-haired creatures seem to have been more common than in most places, the Persian cat being another example. Angoras are often used for food in parts of Europe, but in this country it is difficult to get people to eat them. In the New Zealand Red, a rabbit the pop- ularity of which is carrying it all over the country, we have a puzzle.. The claim is made that it was introduced from New Zealand some years ago, a few specimens being taken to California by sailors. No real verification of this claim has been made, or seems likely to be. As no better way of accounting for the New Zealand Red can be thought of, how- ever, we may as well consider it to be properly named. At least, attempts to drop the word, New Zealand, have been failures. At any rate, it has taken the Pacific coast almost by storm. Chapter III. THE BEST RABBITS FOR MEAT HE meat of practically all rabbits is suitable for food. Yet only a few kinds can be raised profitably. Moreover, there is a general disinclination to the use of the common white rabbits on the table. These rabbits are said to have flesh which is too sweet to be very palatable, but in any event, they are not commonly included among the utility animals. Europe has rather a long list of breeds considered to be valuable for food, but breeders in the United States and Canada confine themselves chiefly to Belgian hares, Flemish Giants and New Zealand Reds. ‘There are various kinds of giant rabbits which might be used for food if plentiful enough, but the common Flemish Giant is the one usu- ally set down as the meat rabbit. The Belgian hare is by all means the best known and the most widely raised. It is a 16 THE BEST RABBITS FOR MEAT 17 very prolific rabbit, and the meat is of high quality. Many breeders, however, prefer the Flemish Giant because of its large size. Specimens weighing ten pounds are common, and occasionally one nearly twice that weight is found. 'As Belgian hares run only from six to eight pounds, considerable more meat is obtained from the Giant. On the other hand, the meat of these big rabbits is coarser than that of the smaller Belgian, and the flavor is not considered quite so good, except, of course, by breeders of Flemish Giants, who often claim it to be equal to any other breed known. Then the Flemish Giant grows more slowly, not being mature until it is fourteen or fifteen months old. They make the best eating at about five months. Judge Chas. L. Gibson says that the Steel] Gray Flemish Giant is the most popular rabbit in America today. For a long time only these two breeds were offered in the general market. Of late years, however, a breed known as the New Zealand Red has won extreme popularity on the Paci- fic coast, and is rapidly coming into favor among eastern breeders. This rabbit has some special merits, and may prove to be the best 18 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING commercial sort yet raised in this country. In spite of their usefulness it is an admitted fact that both the Belgian hare and the Flemish Giant are hearty eaters, and that there is a large amount of waste when they are dressed for the table. Many English breeders can- didly admit these facts, and say that some other breeds are more profitable. It is claimed for the New Zealand Red that it con- sumes less food than even the Belgian, which because of its smaller size eats much less than the Flemish Giant. When dressed for the table, the New Zea- land Red weighs about two pounds more than the Belgian, and the meat is just as fine- grained, palatable and nutritious. In parts of California the New Zealand Red is about the only rabbit seen. It is also raised extensively in the other Pacific coast states, many breeders having adopted it in place of Igians and Giants. It seems to be perfectly ‘hardy in any part of the continent, although just how the eastern climate will eventually act upon it re- mains to be seen. Apparently it is a little more difficult to get large specimens east of the Rockies than it is on the Pacific coast. THE BEST RABBITS FOR MEAT 19 Most rabbits are ready for the table when about four months old. Although Flemish Giants are slow to mature, they make excellent friers at the age of three months, but should be a little older for roasting. Rabbits can be eaten when only two months old. It is gen- erally considered that all commercial rabbits are best for the table if killed before they are a year old. Nevertheless, rabbits two years old make very good eating. It is a common plan when raising rabbits commercially to keep a doe until the end of her second year, and then to market her, her place as breeder being taken by a younger doe. Usually the bucks are disposed of when young, except for a particularly good specimen, which is re- tained for breeding purposes. If rabbits are being raised for market it is always a good plan to castrate the young bucks, when they can be kept together with less fighting. Al- though two people are required the operation is easily performed after a little experience has been acquired. Breeders are likely to make extravagant claims for the particular kind of rabbits which they happen to be raising, but the ama- 20 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING teur can confidently begin with any of the breeds named. As he goes on, he probably will do a little experimenting, and may find that one particular kind will prove more profitable than any other. There is always the matter of one’s market to be considered. In some places very large rabbits may be wanted, without much regard to quality, while in others small animals may be in demand. For home eating the writer’s preference is for Belgian hares, probably because he has had more experience with them than with any other kind. There seems to be some evidence, though, to support the claim that New Zea- land Reds are a little easier to raise. Very much depends upon the strain, whatever breed may be kept, just as with poultry. Some breeders are able to produce very much better stock than others. There has been careless inbreeding with Belgian hares; and so much attention has been given to producing show animals that many strains have low vitality, and give considerable trouble, except in the hands of experts. A good many breeders of New Zealands in the Eastern States find that they are especially susceptible to colds and THE BEST RABBITS FOR MEAT 23, snuffles as they are not yet fully acclimated. Breeding fancy rabbits is quite a different matter from breeding food rabbits. Fanciers naturally work for fine points, and favor their breeding animals. They may not try to raise more than two or three litters a year, and re- duce these litters to the best specimens. The utility breeder, on the contrary, aims to pro- duce as many animals as he can without draw- ing too heavily on the vitality of his stock. He will endeavor to get from four to six litters a year from each doe, and will expect her to raise six or seven youngsters. He will keep a limited number of bucks, say at the rate of one for each ten does. He will raise some speci- mens which a fancier would not want seen in his pens. The man or woman who is keeping only a few rabbits for home use will perhaps keep no buck at all, but will have his or her does bred at the rabbitry or some neighbor’s who has a larger stock. It is not economy to keep a buck which is going to be used only at long intervals. Obviously every fancier will have many rabbits which are not good enough to be used 22 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING for show purposes or to sell for breeding pur- poses. He therefore has a certain number of animals to sell for food purposes, unless he is so devoid of honor as to palm off even his poor animals as desirable breeders, counting on the inexperience of beginners to make this possible. There is a growing call for strictly utility animals, but it will pay even the amateur to keep the best breeding stock that he can get, providing it is not lacking in size or stamina, because he is almost certain to find a sale for well marked animals at a good price. Yet it is because of their ability to supply a large amount of food cheaply that rabbits are being most vigorously exploited. The situa- tion in England and on the continent, where meat is scarce, is. reflected here. In Great Britain the Board of Agriculture has urged gardeners to raise rabbits for food, to take the place of beef and mutton. Three pounds of rabbit, the Board says, with one pound of bacon, will provide more nitrogenous and fatty food than four pounds of beef. Rabbit clubs are being formed in England. A nation- wide rabbit breeding campaign is being car- THE BEST RABBITS FOR MEAT 23 ried on, it being realized that rabbits will meet the need for meat quicker than any other animals. There are a few places in the United States where breeding is being done exten- sively. Two or three years ago a rabbit farm was started at the Federal Penitentiary in Leavenworth, Kansas, to furnish meat for the hospital. About three acres were enclosed and stocked with a hundred does and a dozen bucks. There are large rabbit farms in Cali- fornia and rabbit meat canneries at Los An- geles and Hutchinson, Kansas. In order to help eliminate the prejudice felt by many people against rabbit meat, a movement has been started to substitute the word venison and rabbit venison may become a common dish in restaurants all over the country. It is more important, though, to teach the consumer that the meat of the do- mesticated rabbit is very different from that of the common wild rabbit, great numbers of which are to be seen in many city markets in winter. The meat of domesticated rabbits is white, resembling the breast of chicken. It is sweet, fine grained, and the most nutritious flesh which can be obtained. Chapter IV. THE SO-CALLED FANCY RABBITS HERE are thousands of people who find their recreation in the raising of fancy rabbits, meaning by this, rabbits of the show type. Several important exhibi- tions are held each year, attended by thou- sands of people. One of the biggest rabbit shows is held at Syracuse, N. Y., as a part of the New York State Fair. I:: 1918 the entries at this show had increased to a thousand. Large shows are held in St. Louis, Boston, Chicago, and other cities, at which time the animals are judged and fanciers get together to talk over the merits of their pets. Then, of course, hundreds of men and wo- men breed high class rabbits purely for the pleasure they find in the work, and without any thought of showing them. It is by no means true, as is often supposed, that rabbit fanciers are confined tomen. One of the lead- 24, air of Young Himalayans ; vt ah An English Rabbit SO-CALLED FANCY RABBITS 25 ing breeders in the eastern states is a woman who is reported to be a millionaire, and yet does much of the work of caring for her rab- bits with her own hands. The list of exhibi- tion or fancy rabbits includes all the breeds mentioned among the utility rabbits and many others in addition. The Belgian Hare Although a popular meat rabbit, probably the Belgian hare is also the favorite among fanciers, as it has been for many years. Few handsomer rabbits than well-bred Belgians can be found. Their long, slender bodies give them a peculiar racy appearance, and their mahogany-colored coats, with wide black lac- ings on the ears and wavy black ticking on the bodies, and their bright, alert expression create a tout-ensemble of more than ordinary beauty. It is difficult actually to describe the color of the Belgian. It is commonly stated to be Rufus red, but just what Rufus red is few people can really say. Perhaps the term “mahogany” indicates the proper color as well as any word. The ticking on the back 26 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING differentiates it from any other red rabbit. Fineness of bone and refinement of contour are to be found in a worthy Belgian. There must be nothing coarse or heavy about the animal. Its head must be long, rather nar- row, with well set ears about five inches long. The eye must be bright and sparkling. Some- one has described the Belgian as having the same place among rabbits as a race horse among other equines. The color must extend to the feet, on which no sign of white should appear. The standard weight of the Belgian hare is eight pounds, but many smaller speci- mens are seen. Whole books have been devoted to the Bel- gian hare alone, and anyone who takes this particular breed with the intention of produc- ing show specimens should obtain all the lit- erature on the subject which can be found. The Giant Class It may be assumed from its name that the Flemish Giant is a very large rabbit, in fact, the largest of all the breeds, ranging in weight all the way from ten to sixteen pounds. SO-CALLED FANCY RABBITS 27 Heavier animals are often mentioned, but they are rare. Large size is the point aimed at with the Flemish Giant. It enjoys wide pop- ularity, but is not so handsome a rabbit as the Belgian hare, although it has much the same origin. There are several distinct varieties, each of which has its connoisseurs. The exhi- bition Flemish Giant is steel-gray. It has been greatly improved through the work of fanciers in England and America. The latter country now produces quite as good animals as those formerly imported from across the water. Steel-gray Flemish bucks should not weigh less than twelve pounds, and does should weigh at least fourteen, if they are to be up to the standard. The body is much chunkier than that of the Belgian, and has a broad, powerful appearance. They do not grow so fast as the Belgians and other breeds, often not maturing until nearly fifteen months of age. . The Steel-gray Flemish gets its name from its color, which is carried all over its head, ears, body and feet, although as near white as possible under the belly and tail. A separate class has been made for the Gray + 28 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING Flemish Giant, which is more nearly brown than steel-gray. Young animals are slow to get their true color. Black youngsters may make fine stock. The Black Flemish Giant corresponds to the other varieties except as to color. There is considerable controversy in the United States and Canada over the question as to whether the so-called Black Siberian is a breed by itself or really a Black Flemish Giant. There seems to be a growing dispo- sition to set it down under the latter head, al- though there are many breeders, especially in Canada and the central part of the United States, who are firmly convinced that the Black Siberian was brought to Canada from Russia several years ago, which accounts for its introduction to America. Perhaps the sit- uation is still too confused for a satisfactory verdict to be rendered. At any rate, the Black Siberian and the Black Flemish Giant look about alike. They must be as free as possible from white hairs, and sometimes reach four- teen to fifteen pounds in weight. They seem likely to become particularly valuable for their fur. White Giants are little different, SO-CALLED FANCY RABBITS 29 except that they are pure white with pink eyes. The American Spotted Giant is rapidly be- coming a great favorite with fanciers. This rabbit was formerly known as the German _ Checkered Giant, but soon after the war broke out, that name was changed, with the approval of breeders the country over. In some mark- ings this rabbit resembles the old English rabbit, but it is much larger. It has the same butterfly snout, to use the old expression for the odd black patch on the nose. It should have a line called the saddle running the length of the back. There are black circles around the eyes, the ears are black, and heavy patches of black are found on the hind quar- ters in place of the chain markings found on the English. Although black markings are most common, there are also Spotted Giants on which the color of the spots is blue, tortoise or gray. The standard calls for a weight of eleven pounds or more for bucks and thirteen or more for does. The body must be long and carried well off the ground. Animals of this breed are not quite so chunky in appearance as the Flemish Giants, but should have the same shape of head. 30 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING Because of the remarkably handsome ap- pearance made by the Spotted Giants, they seem likely to become one of the favorite rab- bits of America. Considerable emphasis is being placed on the value of their skins, which make up into very attractive garments. For some years, this will doubtless be among the most profitable breeds to raise because of the great demand and the high prices being ob- tained. They must be bred carefully, though, if good specimens are to be obtained, and never bred when in the molt. Well marked specimens are hard to produce but are very valuable if they are also large in size. The English Rabbit The English rabbit which the American Spotted Giant so much resembles, is a very old breed, being a common rabbit in England before there was any well developed rabbit fancy. It is not to be classed among the Giants, weighing only about seven pounds when mature. Its markings are much like those already described for the American Spotted Giant, except that it should have a SO-CALLED FANCY RABBITS 31 well defined herring-bone line along the back. The spots on the sides are usually smaller and more widely distributed, forming what is com- monly called a chain. The Dutch Rabbit Some description of the Dutch rabbits is given in the chapter on “Rabbits as Pets for Children.” This breed has long had many admirers, and excellent specimens are being ‘exhibited at all the shows. It is a small rab- bit, the standard being five pounds and not over five and a half. The most common vari- ety is black and white, but there are also blue and white, tortoise shell and white, and gray and white. The colors are solid in a good specimen, there being a perfect line of separa- tion where the white appears. There is a white band around the body back of the head and including the forelegs and feet, the under jaw and the nose, running to a point between the ears. There should be about two inches of white on the feet and hind legs. The easiest way to make sure of good markings is to breed from stock that has gone through 32 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING its second molt without deterioration in color. The English Lop-eared Rabbit For years past the lop-eared rabbit has been especially popular in England. It is bred to some extent in the United States and Canada, but requires warmer quarters and more care- ful attention than most of the other breeds. The one outstanding feature of this rabbit is its ears, which are of abnormal length. These ears are expected to reach twenty-four inches from the tip of one to the tip of the other, and often are longer. The width should be a quar- ter of the total, which would mean six inches for one ear when the extreme length measure- ment is two feet. Naturally the ears always hang at the side of the head. Different dark colors are found among the lop-ears. No suc- cess can be expected in breeding these animals unless they can be kept in heated quarters, and of course their hutches must be kept abso- lutely clean and the floor covered with bed- ding. Otherwise it would be impossible to keep the ears in proper shape, and no end of trouble would ensue. SO-CALLED FANCY RABBITS 33 The Himalayan Rabbit Although bred to some extent in the United States and Canada for many years, the Hima- layan rabbit seems to be winning unusual favor at the present time. This is not surpris- ing, for it is among the most attractive of all breeds which the fancier has to choose from. Moreover, it becomes quite tame and seems to enjoy petting. Because of its curious mark- ings, the Himalayan rabbit always makes a strong impression upon visitors to the shows. ‘The body coat is pure white, while the ears, Nose, tail and forefeet are either black or a deep chocolate color. The coat of this rabbit is especially soft and fine, giving it a neat, well- dressed appearance. The eyes are pink, and the eye-lids often seem stained. This is a de- fect, but one which seems exceedingly difficult to eradicate. It is not a large rabbit, not being expected to weigh over five pounds. In breeding the Himalayan several points must be remembered if good specimens are to be produced. If they are exposed to bright sunlight, the black hairs, curiously enough, begin to fade, and the color cannot readily be 34. PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING restored. On the other hand, a little sunlight seems desirable to make the color strong and shiny. With all rabbits that have pink eyes, however, it is necessary to avoid very brilliant sunlight. When Himalayans are born they are entirely white, a matter which often puz- zles amateurs. After a month, however, the color begins to show, and gradually becomes stronger until the markings are complete at four months. It is of particular importance to keep the youngsters in dimly lighted quar- ters during the first five or six weeks of their lifetime. New Zealand Reds Any old-time rabbit breeder who has been out of the fancy for several years and visits a show today is immediately attracted by the large classes of New Zealand Reds, a breed of which he probably knew nothing. The New Zealand Red, after a highly successful career on the Pacific coast, has made its way east- ward and is being taken up with enthusiasm by fanciers as well as by utility breeders in all sections. Perhaps its utility points are of greatest consideration, yet it is a pleasing rab- SO-CALLED FANCY RABBITS 35 bit to look upon, and certainly it has been won- derfully improved in the last two or three years. In size it comes between the Belgian hare and the Flemish Giant. It is not so chunky as the latter, but is less racy in appear- ance than the former. The head should be considerably fuller than that of the Belgian hare. This is said to be an important matter, especially with the buck, a buck with a small fine head being likely to produce undersized progeny. The color should be uniform all over the body, head and feet. Just exactly what the standard means when it says reddish buff is not agreed upon by all breeders, one’s opinion often being indicative of the kind of stock he happens to have. In any event it should not be too light a fawn, and should be as free as possible from white or black hairs. Reddish cream is called for as a belly color. Nine and ten pounds are assigned as the respective weights of mature bucks and does. The Polish Rabbit If all the rabbits commonly called Polish were really specimens of that breed, the num- 36 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING ber in America would be very large. The fact is that most of the large white rabbits have no right to the name. The real Polish is a small rabbit, weighing not over five pounds, and its eyes are blood red when young, fading to pink with age. The coat is fine in quality, silky, short, and smooth. The ears are short and the head is fairly lean. Polish rabbits are best adapted to the cooler parts of the country because they suffer more than most breeds from the heat. Moreover their coats are in- jured if they are exposed to much direct sun- light. In fact, more than usual attention is required to keep these rabbits in the pink of condition, for the coat and especially the feet are certain to be stained unless the strictest cleanliness prevails. Sometimes soft bread crumbs are used to clean the. coat, as they seem to remove soiled spots more effectively than anything else. Green stuff must be fed care- fully, and is best withheld from young rab- bits because they seem to show a tendency towards bowel trouble. Probably the Polish rabbit will never be bred as satisfactorily in America as in England, but it has many admirers. SO-CALLED FANCY RABBITS 37 The Angora Rabbit Another fancy rabbit which is bred in lim- ited numbers is the Angora. In the eyes of many fanciers this is the handsomest of all rabbits, its long fleecy coat giving it a unique appearance. Because of this coat, though, it has no beauty of form to recommend it. Qual- ity in the Angora lies in the perfection of its fine white fur. In parts of Europe it is said that these rabbits are often raised especially for their fur, which is used for making chil- dren’s knitted caps and other garments. The coats vary from five inches to seven inches in length; sometimes in very fine specimens they run three or four inches longer. The Angora rabbit has pink eyes, and fair- ly good-sized ears, which are tufted. Occa- sionally colored varieties are seen, blue and smoke being the most common. Because of the great difficulty attending the breeding of the colored Angoras, however, very few fan- ciers have taken them up. Angoras are not suitable for pets, or in fact for a fancier who is not willing to spend considerable time on them. They must be kept in. roomy hutches 38 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING which are perfectly clean, and have an abun- dance of bedding. They are not as tender, though, as some people seem to think, and will stand plenty of cold if their quarters are not damp. Fitting them for shows is a somewhat tedious undertaking unless they are kept well groomed at all times, which is the proper plan. While a well cared for Angora is a remarkably attractive bunch of snow- white fur, a neglected specimen is an unpleas- ant looking object. Good Angoras weigh about nine pounds, The Silvers Several varieties are included among the Silvers, some of them being especially valued for their fur. The Silver Gray is supposed to be a straight product of the wild English rabbit. They have been bred there for a long time, but it is only of late years that any con- siderable numbers have appeared in_ this country. It is a robust, vigorous rabbit, and while not actually handsome, it is neat and friendly. They vary in size from four to seven pounds, smaller specimens being more SO-CALLED FANCY RABBITS 39 common. It is very difficult to give a com- prehensive description of the color, except to say that it is a bluish black through which white hairs are scattered so as to produce the silver effect. The feet and tail should match the body color. The rabbits vary in shading according to the number of light colored hairs, so that they may be called light silvers or dark silvers. The principal point in breed- ing is to obtain an even distribution of the silvering all over the body. A good colored specimen resembles a gray squirrel in color. Silver Fawns, Silver Blues and Silver Browns are shown to some extent. All of. them are crosses from the original Silver Gray. The Silver Browns seem to have come from England, and the Silver Fawns from France. Argent de Champagne, sometimes called Champagne Silver, is another French member of this class, and is valued especially for its fur. It has a deep under color of blue, and a mixture of black and white hairs. A considerable representation is now to be found in America. They make an unusual appear- ance, and are likely to become popular, espe- cially if a demand for their fur develops. 40 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING The Blue Imperial This is an English breed, for which a wo- man, Miss Mabel Illingworth, stood spon- sor. Although the color might be called maltese by some, it produces a decidedly blu- ish effect. It must be an even color all over the rabbit. The fur is rather longer than on most breeds, and is fine and soft. ‘The eyes are deep blue. This rabbit should weigh about seven pounds, and be fairly long and lithe. Blue Imperials are not difficult to raise, and require no special attention. The Tans Still another class for which English breed- ers must have the credit is the Black and Tan. About all that can be said as to their origin, though, is that they are known. to have come from England. The number in this country is not large at present. The black Tans were the first to be introduced; the blues came from them. All the Tans are easy to raise, and should weigh from three to four and a half pounds. They are considered best for show purposes before the end of the first year. White Giant and Her Offspring Chapter V. RABBITS AS PETS FOR CHILDREN. OST boys and some girls have a time M in their young lives when they desire a pet rabbit above everything else. If their wish is gratified they are usually given a common white rabbit. These little pink-eyed creatures, while pretty enough, are the least de- sirable of .all rabbits which might be chosen. They are not especially robust or prolific, and the does often make poor mothers. Of course, the true Polish rabbit, which is white and red-eyed, but considerably smaller than the rabbits usually seen, is a good kind. Pol- ish rabbits, however, are not at all common in America. There are half a dozen breeds, though, from among which excellent pets can be chosen. They include two of the breeds most often kept for utility purposes, that is to say, the Belgian hares and the New Zealand Reds. 41 42 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING Belgian hares will perhaps make the strongest appeal because of the fact that they are cheapest. They are cheap, however, not because of any inferiority, but because they are more plentiful than the other kinds. Bel- gian hares are among the keenest, most alert, and most interesting of all tame rabbits. They are very handsome, too, if well marked, and the boy who is interested in rabbits should be given as good specimens as possible. He will soon learn to know a good Belgian from a poor one, and will not be satisfied with an animal which has white feet and a gray coat. The New Zealand rabbit is larger than the Belgian, and is the largest breed adapted for children’s pets. Of course boys often raise Flemish Giants, and other rabbits of that class, but on the whole the smaller breeds are to be recommended. In some parts of the country New Zealand Reds will be found even more plentiful than Belgian hares. They are especially hardy, and their sleek red coats are much admired. For real pets, though, the Dutch rabbits cannot be surpassed. They are not very large, weighing only three or four pounds. They are RABBITS AS PETS 43 marked in a very peculiar way, being black, blue or gray, except for a white band which extends entirely around the body just back of the head. This white band extends to the neck and down the front paws. A white patch on the nose adds to the distinctive appearance of this little rabbit. This breed is especially to be recommended because does and bucks alike are robust and lively. The does make exceedingly good mothers, and are often used to care for the neglected offspring of less faithful mothers. They are prolific, too, so that it is easy to increase one’s stock rapidly, and the youngsters are readily raised. Being very tame and playful, the Dutch rabbits are perhaps the best pets which can be given to young children. Next in value for this purpose I would name the curiously marked Himalayan rab- bit, which is often seen at the shows, and in- variably appeals to boys and girls alike, if they have any fondness for animal pets. They are but little larger than the Dutch rabbits, running from three to five pounds, and they have short, soft fur which is sometimes called mock-ermine. Although the body is white, 44 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING the ears, nose, feet and tail are so brown as to be almost black. The eyes are pink, and very bright. It is an interesting fact, and one that may puzzle youthful owners of Hima- layans, that when born they have no dark markings at all, being white all over. By the time the youngsters are three or four weeks old, small colored spots will appear on the nose and in a few weeks more the real Hima- layan characteristics will be in evidence. Be- cause of its playfulness, its unusual appearance and its vigor, the Himalayan rabbit is a most desirable pet. Rabbits that are kept for pets do not need elaborate hutches, and many a boy has fash- ioned a satisfactory home for his pets from a drygoods box. One important point, though, must be remembered. The hutch must be kept dry and clean. Otherwise it is impossi- ble to be successful in maintaining the health of the animals. Over-feeding is another point to be avoided. Children always like to see their rabbits eat, and are tempted to give them more food than they ought to have. This ap- plies especially to young rabbits which soon become pot-bellied if overfed, and particu- RABBITS AS PETS 45 larly if given green food. Other troubles are likely to follow, and the venture in rabbit keeping prove disastrous. It often happens that children are enthu- siastic when they begin keeping rabbits, but after a few weeks find the work of keeping them fed, watered and otherwise cared for becoming monotonous. Wise parents will not allow their children to own any animal longer than they are willing to give it the attention which it needs, Chapter VI. HOW TO BEGIN RABBIT KEEPING ROBABLY it goes without saying that the only proper way to begin rabbit keeping is in a small way. To start in with a large number of animals before one has learned to care for them properly is to in- vite prompt disaster. It is true that there is nothing very complicated or difficult about rabbit keeping, but what there is to learn should be learned thoroughly before one gets too deeply into the business. It is important, too, that the beginner investigate the various breeds before he makes a start. Otherwise he may find a little later that he prefers a dif- ferent breed from the one which he has chosen. Then it will be necessary to begin all over again. In making a selection one must consider the market to be supplied or the purpose for which the animals are to be raised. It makes a difference whether one 46 HOW TO BEGIN 47 wants rabbits for pets, rabbits for meat, rab- bits for fur, or rabbits for exhibition. Some- thing depends, too, upon the part of the coun- try in which one lives. Perhaps it is better for the average begin- ner to start with one of the medium sized breeds, like the Belgian hare or the New Zea- land Red, rather than with the Giants. These are good utility rabbits, and yet show stock can readily be built up if one starts with well bred animals. In the east the Belgian hare is more likely to be chosen, while on the Pacific coast New Zealand Reds have the preference. It is better to obtain some skill by handling these rabbits for a year or two before starting in with purely exhibition breeds. Certainly no one should start rabbit keeping by buying either English or French lop-ears. The number of rabbits to start with will depend somewhat upon the size of one’s purse and the amount of room available. Perhaps the simplest plan is to start with a doe which has been bred to a young buck. By all means buy a young animal, even though you have to pay a little more. It isn’t necessary to keep a buck at any time, for you can always have your 48 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING does bred to a good buck owned by a more ex- tensive breeder for a small fee. It is much better in the long run to adopt this practice, providing you can secure the service of a high grade buck, rather than to use a poor buck in your own hutches. It hardly pays to purchase an expensive buck simply for breeding pur- poses, if you have only a few does. By the time you have increased your stock to six or eight breeding does, you will be justified in buying the best buck that you can afford. Of course this is speaking only in a general way. You may be so situated that it will be neces- sary for you to have a buck at the beginning, although there is usually no difficulty about purchasing a bred ‘doe. The amount to pay is a question which can- not be readily decided for you. The follow- ing are the prices quoted in the circular of one of the largest and best known breeders in the eastern states: Belgian Hares, young stock, eight to sixteen weeks old, bred from prize-winning bucks and good does; price per pair, $3.50; per trio, $5.25. Young stock of the highest quality, bred from registered bucks and does; many HOW TO BEGIN 49 of them are fit for show purposes; prices per pair, $5.50; per trio, $8.00. Heavyweight Belgians which combine size with good color, young stock, eight to four- teen weeks old, price per pair, $4.00; per trio, $6.00. White Flemish Giants, good size and true Flemish type; price per pair $5.00; per trio, $7.50. Black Giants, young, eight to sixteen weeks old; price per pair, $5.00; per trio, $7.50. Light Gray Flemish, first-class young, eight to sixteen weeks old, at $4.00 per pair; $6.00 per trio. Highest quality stock from winners, $6.00 per pair. New Zealand Reds, young stock, eight to sixteen weeks old; price per pair, $5.00; per trio, $7.50. Giant Crosses are ideal for table purposes, and sell readily anywhere. They are crosses between Black Giants and White Giants, New Zealand Reds and White Giants, Heavy- weight Belgians and White Giants. Young, eight to sixteen weeks old. Price per pair, $3.00; per trio, $4.50. Giant Crossed Does, heavy in young; these s0 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING does were bred from heavyweight bucks and good utility does. They are now mated to large, pure-bred bucks, and will soon produce their litters. Price each, $3.75 to $6.50. Blue Imperials, exceptional color and good pelts. Price for young stock, eight to sixteen weeks old, fit for any show room, $17.50 per pair. Extra does, $10.00 each. Himalayans, young, bred from winners; price per pair, $7.50; per trio, $11.00. Good English, bred from winners; price per pair, $8.00. Angoras, young, in black, white, orange, blue, and broken colors at $3.00 to $10.00 per pair. These are the lowest prices at which good stock is offered. In many cases the beginner should expect to pay rather more. There is one thing to avoid above all else. You will find many alluring advertisements even in reputable magazines and papers, lead- ing you to believe that you can make a fortune in a few weeks by buying rabbits from the firms inserting the advertisements, and selling back to them the stock which you raise. In the rabbit industry, as in all lines of business, HOW TO BEGIN 51 there are fakers and frauds aplenty. This does not mean that every concern advertising to buy back stock is conducting a campaign of misrepresentation, or is not honest. You may be sure, though, that any concern making ex- aggerated claims is not above: suspicion. If you can see your stock before you buy it, that will be a great advantage. Perhaps, how- ever, you are not familiar enough with the breeds to know a good from a bad specimen. In that event it certainly will pay you to get an experienced rabbit breeder to go with you, even if you have to reimburse him for his time. At any rate, buy from a breeder who is a member of the National Breeders’ and Fanciers’ Association, for then you have a chance of obtaining redress if the stock is mis- represented. In every section of the country there is a representative of this association to whom you can appeal if you think you have been wronged. (See appendix.) There are plenty of good, reliable dealers from whom you can be safe in buying. Many of them have their best stock registered. Buy reg- istered stock when purchasing high priced specimens. s2 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING If you order your rabbits by mail, examine them at the express office before signing for them. First of all, look at the inside of the feet to see if the hair appears wet and rough. If you find such a condition, ship the rabbits back at once. The trouble may be only a slight cold, but on the other hand, it may be incipient snuffles, which no one wants to get into his rabbitry. No end of beginners have been disgusted after a few weeks because they have started with stock in this condition. It is well to examine the interior of the ears. Unless they are clean inside, you may expect canker. If you find the rabbit shaking its head frequently, and pawing at its ears, you may safely infer that something is wrong. It is barely possible that the rabbits may have lice, although they are not often found. It will be well to turn back the fur to look for vermin, in any event. They sometimes occur when rabbits are kept in filthy quarters or ad- jacent to a hen house. It is also advisable to examine the reproductive organs for signs of disease there. A good healthy rabbit has a lively, alert appearance, with a bright eye, the white of HOW TO BEGIN 53 which has no tinge of yellow. The body should not be pot-bellied, but lean and firm. Of course rabbits that are very thin are likely to be in poor condition. If the dung is firm and in round balls you can assume that the digestion is good. You may need the assistance of an experi- enced breeder to determine the good or bad points of a rabbit which you are buying, and such a precaution should be taken if you are paying more than a nominal price. You your- self, however, can judge of the rabbit’s condi- tion if you bear in mind the points just dis- cussed. One very important matter is to be sure of the sex. Parhaps no more trouble has been experienced in buying rabbits than by having the animal you bought for a buck turn out to be a doe, or vice versa. This is a matter where many breeders who are selling stock err. Some of them, without doubt, sell a buck for a doe, trusting that the buyer will not discover the mistake until so much time has elapsed that he will not feel like making a complaint. It is a simple matter to determine the sex -of an animal after it is a few weeks old. Turn 54 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING the rabbit on its back on your knees and press gently on the parts with the thumb and fore- finger. After one or two trials you will be able to determine at a glance between the doe and the buck. When rabbits are mature, ex- perienced breeders can often tell them apart by their general appearance, but the novice will have difficulty in doing so, and even old breeders must resort to a physical examination to tell the sex of young stock. With this simple exposition of the import- ant matters to be borne in mind when buying stock, the prospective rabbit keeper will be able to make at least an intelligent start. Chapter VII. HOUSES, HUTCHES AND YARDS T is quite possible to keep rabbits in yards out of doors, and when the Belgian hare boom was at its height some years ago, many of the leading breeders constructed houses with yards attached, very similar to poultry houses. As a rule, though, rabbit keepers now-a-days confine their animals to hutches. Of course it is a simple matter to make a hutch from a dry-goods box or to make a series of hutches by the use of second hand lumber or perhaps boxes from the gro- cery store. The hutches may be very inex- pensive and yet perfectly satisfactory. In England where many wealthy men and wo- men are included among the rabbit fanciers, some elaborate houses are to be found. In some houses mahogany doors and ornamental latches or door fasteners are common enough. | Perhaps it goes without saying, however, that the animals to be found in these pretentious 55 56 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING rabbitries are seldom superior to those kept in much more modest quarters and owned by breeders having more skill than money.. The most important point in connection with any hutch or house is that it should be absolutely dry and free from drafts. It should be reasonably roomy, too, because rabbits suf- fer if confined to very narrow limits. Of course much depends upon the breed. It is not necessary to have as large hutches for rab- bits like the Himalayans and the Polish as for Belgian hares and New Zealand Reds, while Flemish Giants need larger hutches than any of the breeds mentioned. It is sometimes thought by fanciers that there is an advantage in having small hutches when smaller rabbits are being raised for exhibition purposes on the assumption that the rabbits will not grow large because they have so little room to move around in. The fact is, though, that exercise is of quite as much importance, because with- out it the animals are likely to get fat and logy instead of measuring up to their true type. The mistake is often made of having hutches too low, especially when fancy rabbits are being bred. The result is that the animals wre \ & | L Well-arranged Commercial Rabbitry HOUSES, HUTCHES AND YARDS 57 acquire a hunched-up appearance instead of the graceful, free habit of movement which comes from being able to stand erect or climb up the wire front of the pen. FIG. 1. After careful study of many types of hut- ches in use in America and across the water, David E. Lantz, of the United States Depart- ment of Agriculture, has presented the accom- panying designs for the consideration of prac- tical rabbit keepers. For ordinary purposes the hutches which he recommends can hardly be improved upon. In his bulletin describing the hutches Mr. Lantz deals chiefly with Bel- gian hares, but the hutches are adaptable to any breed, except that their size may be varied as desired. Mr. Lantz describes his hutches in the following words: 58 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING “A convenient indoor hutch (fig. 1) is one 6 by 2 by 2 feet, with a movable partition dividing off a third of the space at one end for a nest and sleeping chamber. The parti- tion has a smooth hole to permit passage of the animals from one part to the other. The front of the hutch has two doors, one of wire netting, the other of wood. The wooden door opens to the sleeping chamber and should HES TK SE FRO g LOORQOG) RK) FIG. 2. close tightly. It is best to use metal hinges for the doors. The partition may slide in a groove between the doors or may be put in and taken out through one of the door open- ings. HOUSES, HUTCHES AND YARDS 59 “Outdoor hutches should have sloping roofs and overhanging eaves to protect them from rain. The screened door should have a slid- ing cover of wood or be fitted with a remov- able cloth cover. Small holes bored near the top of the hutch will afford all necessary ventilation. “Movable hutches (fig. 2) have some ad- vantages. They may be carried outdoors in fine weather and taken back under shelter at night or during storms. Long, narrow cleats projecting at both ends of the hutch are all that are needed to convert the ordinary hutch into a movable one. Two forms of outdoor hutch sometimes used are shown in figures 3 and 4. That in figure 3 has no floor except a See 2 696252 RS 252525892 S25 252525 05S SR oO S525 a wire screen, permitting the rabbits to eat grass or other herbage that projects through the netting.” When the rabbits are to be in small quar- ters, it is a customary plan to stack the hutches, 60 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING making three tiers. This plan saves labor as well as space, yet it has its disadvantages. The fundamental essential in the rearing of rabbits is cleanliness, and it is more difficult to attain complete sanitation when the hutches are stacked than when each hutch stands by itself. A method which has been adopted by some FIG. 4. successful breeders is to have each hutch con- structed with a sloping roof, a block being so placed as to elevate the floors of the upper hutches to the proper height. Then the liq- uids coming through the floors of the hutches are drained away instead of soaking through into the hutch beneath. It is desirable to have the roof of each hutch covered with heavy roofing paper, or better still, with tin. So-called self-cleaning hutches are often HOUSES, HUTCHES AND YARDS 6° FIG. 5. 62 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING recommended, and are used to a considerable extent, especially on the Pacific coast, and in other warm sections where large out-door rabbitries are common. ‘These hutches have floors made of narrow boards spaced about an inch apart, or floors of closely woven wire netting or hardward “cloth. A good heavy cloth is needed as a matter of course, and must be well supported so that it will not sag. Sometimes a few loose boards are laid on it. Very little bedding is used in such a hutch, and the droppings fall through, being gathered up from the ground or from a box underneath. In some rather elaborate hutches (see fig. 5) including one or two patented designs, draw- ers are arranged under the wire floor to re- ceive the droppings. Of course this plan makes cleaning very easy. Even with such an arrangement, though, it is advisable to have a scraper and a brush for getting into corners. The average rabbit keeper, especially the amateur, is satisfied with a tight floor covered with sawdust or some other absorbent. It is best, of course, to have the floor made of matched boards, and with as few cracks as pos- sible. Many times a box about eighteen inches HOUSES, HUTCHES AND YARDS 63 square and three inches high, filled with saw- dust and placed in a corner of the hutch, will serve a very useful purpose, and one which the rabbits soon recognize. Then the drop- pings are mostly found in this box, and clean- ing is greatly facilitated. Some rabbit keepers simply smear a corner of the hutch with a little of the dung, with the result that that corner is usually resorted to by the rabbits with the same result as when a box is used. The other fittings of the hutch, however it is constructed, must include a nest box, unless the apartment is to be given over wholly to the use of the bucks or young animals. In the hutch described by the Government agent, the nest box is arranged for in the general design. Oftentimes, though, it consists simply of a smaller box placed in a corner of the hutch. This box should be about eighteen inches square and about a foot high. Of course the size will depend somewhat upon the breed of rabbits which are to use it. The box should have no top, but should be inverted on the floor of the hutch. At one end an opening large enough to admit the doe should be made, but this opening should be placed if possible | 64 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING away from strong light. Oftentimes a few holes are bored in the side of the box near the top to allow for additional ventilation when the weather is very warm. A nest box of this kind is easily removed for cleaning and costs practically nothing. Some commercial rabbit breeders prefer to have a permanent nest box in one corner with a secondary door in the outside wall of the hutch so that the nest can be examined from without. This plan makes it an easy matter to remove surplus youngsters or rabbits that were born dead, the work being done without the knowledge of the doe if the time is chosen when she is feeding outside the nest box. It is well to have the entrance open- ing three inches from the floor, so that the new born rabbits will not roll out. The doe will jump on the box to escape from her offspring. There are several ways of arranging for the easy cleaning of an improvised hutch. One plan is to have double wire doors. Another and less expensive method calls for a wire cov- ered frame which fits tightly against the front of the box and contains a small door. When the hutch is to be cleaned the entire front can be taken off. Another way is to -have a board HOUSES, HUTCHES AND YARDS 65 about six inches high placed across the front of the hutch and resting on the floor, held in place with a button or a hook at each end. The rest of the space may be covered with wire. At cleaning time this board may be removed and a scraper used to pull out the litter. This plan economizes work when a wheelbarrow or cart or perhaps a litter carrier on a track is used to remove the rubbish and offal. If a rabbit raiser is to keep his animals in the open air all the year round, he will need some kind of roof or shelter which will pro- ject a foot or more over the front of the hutch: or stack of hutches to exclude both rain and a certain amount of direct sunshine. There is no better disinfectant than sunlight, and most rabbits like to bask in it. At the same time, it is exceedingly injurious in mid-summer when the weather is very hot. Moreover, ex- posure to direct sunlight for any length of time fades the coats of several breeds, like the Himalayans, the Imperials and the Tans. Many breeders contend that the coats of Bel- gian hares are damaged by sunlight, but this claim is often carried much too far. No doubt 66 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING an excess of direct sunshine impairs the lustre of the coat, and perhaps causes it to appear somewhat rusty. This result will not follow, though, unless the rabbits are kept in the bright sunlight for many hours at a time. It is not wise to keep Belgian hares in semi-dark- ness, as some breeders have been taught to do. Even though their coats may be benefited slightly from this treatment, which is a doubt- ful matter, their health is pretty certain to suffer out of all proportion to the advantage gained. It may be advisable in northern parts of the country and in Canada to have some kind of shed or other building for housing the rabbits in mid-winter. At the same time, this is not necessary, and it is better, as a matter of fact, to have the animals in outside hutches than to keep them in any building which is damp and gloomy. When outside quarters are to be adopted, the rabbit keeper must provide an extra amount of straw or hay for the rabbits to burrow in. It will be for the comfort of the little animals, too, to construct a board shutter to be placed at the front of the hutch at night, a small opening at the top providing ventila- HOUSES, HUTCHES AND YARDS 67 tion. In lieu of such a shutter, canvas, oiled muslin, or even heavy burlap may be used, ventilating openings being bored at the ends of each hutch. Some breeders use no front covers, even in very cold months. Now that rabbit breeding has come to be a recognized commercial industry, more at- tention is being given to the construction of rabbit houses. Several leading breeders have. long buildings with a series of alleys running. through them, and with two tiers of hutches: opening upon each alley. These buildings are arranged in such a way as to economize time and labor, and it becomes possible for one man to care for five or six hundred rabbits. On the Pacific coast, some of the rabbitries: have open sides all around, but are covered with a broad roof to exclude the rain and hot sun. The hutches, usually of the self-cleaning type, are arranged in long rows under this roof, usually back to back so as to face on parallel alleys. Rabbit keeping in the warmer parts of the country has some advantages, yet the long rainy season is quite as hard for the animals to endure as the kind of winter weather to be found in the east and north. 68 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING Amateurs with only a few rabbits can often give them more room than the commercial grower. It is an excellent plan to have an out- side run in connection with a hutch. This may be made of wire netting mounted on legs, or it may rest on the ground. Even in the latter case it should have a floor either of boards or wire. Too much emphasis cannot be placed upon the necessity of having such a run or in fact any kind of outside hutch made very strong. Otherwise the rabbit keeper is likely to have his stock wiped out by the depredations of dogs. Dogs sometimes get wildly excited at the sight of a rabbit, even in a pen, and will go through an ordinary wire front. Even when it is impossible for a dog to reach the inmates of the hutch, the latter may be badly injured by fright. A doe with young in the nest may pull them out, and de- stroy them in her terror. Or in the case of a bred doe, a premature birth may be brought about. Dogs often become a serious menace to the rabbit keeper, and must be taken into account when a rabbitry is being planned. It is advisable to cover hutches with wire of a close enough mesh to exclude rats and mice, HOUSES, HUTCHES AND YARDS 69 which are likely to gather wherever grain is to be found. In some parts of Europe what is called the. Morant system is followed. Many French rabbit keepers think this is the ideal way for raising their animals during the warmer months. The hutches are light enough so that they can easily be moved, and they have raised nests so that the rabbits can feed beneath them. These hutches have no floors, but are placed. on the grass and moved from day to day. The simplest way is to have projecting handles, although French fanciers simply use broad hooks to which bars are attached when the hutches are to be moved. Of course hutches of this kind must be very strong or they will soon fall to pieces under the constant lifting about which must be given them, as well as their exposure to the weather. They must be made firmly enough, too, so that they can resist the inroads of dogs, cats, and in rural districts, of foxes and other wild ani- mals. Moreover, a considerable amount of grass land is necessary because the same area. should not be fed over more than twice each season. Otherwise there is danger of getting: 70 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING the animals infected with internal parasites, known as Coccidiosis, which are induced by ‘unsanitary conditions, and especially by keep- ing rabbits on fouled ground. While the Morant system, therefore, would seem at first thought to be an ideal one, be- cause of the saving in food affected, as well as by the saving in time and labor, it is not satisfactory enough, all things considered, to ‘cause its general adoption. The hutch de- scribed by Mr. Lantz, and illustrated in fig- ure 3, is designed for grass feeding, and is a good type for American conditions. Even though the Morant system, which gets its name, by the way, from its French originator, may not be adapted for general use, it may be employed to some extent, a few hutches being used for individual animals or for young stock above the age of three months. The question is often asked why rabbits cannot be kept in large enclosures having tight wire fences. This plan was tried out more or less extensively at the time of the Belgian hare boom already mentioned. It was thought then that by fencing in several acres, the rabbits could be turned loose and allowed to multiply HOUSES, HUTCHES AND YARDS 7r without let or hindrance, the expectation be- ing that in a few years a very large number would have been accumulated at almost no expense for feeding or care. This alluring proposition invariably failed to work out ac- cording to specifications. Belgian hares and all the other domesticated rabbits, being made breeds, are not adapted to even a semi-wild life. If turned out into the woods or fields to shift for themselves entirely, they are soon entirely exterminated. Like cows or sheep or any other of the farmer’s livestock, they need man’s protection and care. It is possible, though, to keep animals in a - small yard or court if the number is not too large. A paved court, or one with a board floor, can be handled in much the same way as a hutch, except on a larger scale, and will accommodate a considerable number of young animals. Wire netting may also be used to cover the bottom of an enclosed yard. It is an advantage to have it an inch or two under the surface. The rabbits will try to dig through this, but after one or two attempts will give up. Unless prevented by some kind of a barrier, the rabbits will dig holes all 72 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING through the ground, and some of these holes will very likely lead to a point outside the fence and upward to liberty. Unless such a yard is connected with an inside hutch, there should be boxes into which the animals can retreat when alarmed. A rabbit fence must be firmly made of heavy poultry netting five or six feet wide. One-inch mesh is best. If such yards can be used for one season and then shifted, this plan may be followed successfully in rearing rab- bits out of doors. There is always danger, though, that the ground will become foul and the difficulty already mentioned creep in, with very serious results. Moreover, much more space must be used for a limited number of rabbits than when the hutch system is adopted. For that reason, therefore, most rabbit'keepers now confine all their stock to hutches, except for adjoining runways. Some of them have special hutches for young stock, making them long and rather narrow. ‘This is rather a good plan, for it gives the youngsters a chance to exercise freely. It must not be supposed from this, though, that a large number of young rabbits yoINFT IOOp-jnQ Jwatusauoy jo sdkJ, HOUSES, HUTCHES AND YARDS 73 can safely be put together. It is best not to house more than six or eight in one hutch, especially if high bred stock is being kept. It doesn’t matter so much with young animals that are simply being raised to the meat age, because they are to be slaughtered, although, as with chickens, there is likely to be one ani- mal which will be stronger and bolder than the others and get more than his share of the food. Chapter VIII. THE GENERAL CARE OF RABBITS T is of the greatest importance to keep the | rabbits free from dampness and drafts. Every poultry keeper knows that he is certain to have trouble with his hens if he houses them in damp, drafty quarters. It is the same with rabbits, whatever the breed may be. Like poultry, most breeds can endure a low temperature, providing the air is dry and enters the house only at the front or through special ventilating devices. It is much better to have the animals in an open hutch out of doors, with a plentiful supply of hay or straw to burrow in than in a shed or other building where the sun-does not enter, and a feeling of dampness prevails. At the same time, a cer- tain amount of shelter is desirable. Various arrangements of hutches to make this possible, where there is no special rabbit house, will be described in a succeeding chapter. 74 GENERAL CARE OF RABBITS 75 The hutch must be kept perfectly clean, for sanitation is the price of success in rearing rabbits. Different devices to make cleaning easy are on the market and can be purchased at a low price. It is not difficult to make a short-handled hoe, or scraper, at home, and a long-handled stove shovel will be found use- ful, especially for getting into the corners and for handling sawdust. It is a good plan to have a fibre or tin pail to carry away the drop- pings and litter, or to use a box mounted on wheels. The latter plan is a good one when one has a considerable number of hutches to be cared for. A box on a small wheelbarrow can also be used to advantage. Some sort of deodorizer or disinfectant should be kept on hand for use in the house and in the hutches. Every hutch should be carefully cleaned and disinfected before a new rabbit is put into it. Breeders differ as to the kind of absorbent to be used, or whether to use any at all. With self-cleaning hutches they are not needed. Dried peat, if it can be obtained, is especially good. A preparation of this kind for use in poultry houses is on the market, and will be found equally useful by the rabbit keeper. 76 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING Sawdust is used by many breeders, and is a good material, providing it is not from oak trees. Oak sawdust like oak shavings is not desirable. While sunlight is desirable for sanitary rea- sons, all rabbits suffer intensely from the heat, and their hutches should be so arranged that they will be sheltered in the middle of the day. Sometimes this is accomplished by having projecting eaves at the front. Such an arrangement also prevents the rain beating in when the hutches are out of doors. While out-door rabbit keeping has much in its favor, one must always guard against the inroads of dogs. With rabbits as with sheep, there seems to be something which arouses the lust for killing in many canines, regardless of breed. All over the country there are rabbit keepers who can testify to serious losses from dogs which have broken into the rabbitry and gone right through wire doors in order to at- tack the terrified and helpless inmates. The | writer knows what it is to have valuable an- imals destroyed in this way, and feels it neces- sary to give this warning. There seems to be a common belief among GENERAL CARE OF RABBITS 77 boys that the right way to lift a, rabbit is to grab it by the ears. This is wholly wrong, as every rabbit keeper of experience knows. Many times lop ears are produced as a result of such rough handling, and a lop ear spoils an otherwise good specimen. Moreover, handling by the ears causes the rabbit pain, and is a most cruel practice. There is one right way to lift and carry a rabbit, and one which all youthful rabbit keepers should be taught at the beginning. Just behind the shoulders there is a bunch of loose skin which can be readily grasped by the hand, in much the same way as an old cat takes her kitten in her mouth by the scruff of the neck. It does not injure or hurt a young rabbit to lift it in this way. Quite often a rabbit breeder following this practice will also close his fingers around the ears so that a superficial observer might think that the weight of the rabbit was carried by the ears. When a rabbit is heavy it is best to use two hands, one holding the animal in the way mentioned, while the other is placed under the hind quarters and allowed to carry most of the weight. Asa rule rabbits dislike to be handled. Sometimes they will struggle 78 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING fiercely, but can be controlled if held by two hands as described. It is always advisable to watch out for the-hind feet, for the toenails are likely to be sharp, and rabbits have sur- prising strength in their hind legs, as every- one realizes who has heard them stamp on a board floor when startled or excited. The re- sounding thump which they give the boards can be heard a long way. Rabbits are capable of fighting viciously and of doing each other much injury. It is unsafe to keep bucks together, unless they have been castrated, after they are three or four months old. Sometimes a number of bucks which have been brought up together have got along peaceably, but usually there is much fighting. Two old bucks must never be al- lowed to get together under any circum- stances. Sometimes they will disfigure one another by fighting through the wires of pens which are close together. It may even happen that a doe which has been placed with one buck will be maltreated if put with another buck because of the odor which she carries. It is very important to avoid handling young rabbits before they leave their nests, and GENERAL CARE OF RABBITS _ 79 even for some weeks afterwards. It is a good plan to rub your hands over the fur of the mother before handling very young rabbits. It is wise to watch out for mice, which often get into a rabbitry looking for grain. Not only do they cause a loss by eating this grain, but they are likely to disturb the does so that they will neglect their young. Chapter IX. WHAT AND HOW TO FEED 66 HAT shall we feed our rabbits?” That is one of the first questions asked by the beginner, but even the most experienced rabbit keepers disagree as to the answer. Some rabbit keepers will tell you that dandelions and plantains are ex- ceedingly injurious, but that cabbage is an ideal green food. Others will decree that plan- tains and dandelions constitute an excellent green ration for rabbits, but that cabbages should be fed most sparingly. One writer as- serts positively that green food which is wet is to be shunned with the greatest care. An- other states that no harm at all is done in feed- ing green food wet. These are only a few of the various contradictory statements which will puzzle the novice when he comes to in- vestigate the matter of providing suitable rations for his stock. 80 JIWHAT AND HOW TO FEED 81 After all, though, common sense must gov- ern the feeding of rabbits, as of all stock. Something depends upon the feeding habits which the rabbits in any section of the country have developed. Young animals that have been kept closely confined all winter and given very little green food are likely to suffer if allowed an unlimited quantity of wet grass or other green stuff in the spring. If they are gradually introduced to garden produce, it will soon have no injurious effect whether fed wet or dry. Rabbits that have their liberty in yards, likewise wild rabbits and hares feed on wet grass or vegetables with impunity. The trouble ascribed to feeding wet grains most commonly is actually caused by allowing the grains to become moldy. Even grass that is gathered when wet will heat if allowed to stand only a few hours and become unfit for food. Cabbage leaves, dandelions, celery tops and any other food stuff of this kind thrown into a corner of the rabbitry and left uncon- sumed will soon reach a condition which makes it injurious for feeding. With this fact in mind, the amateur will know about how to utilize the green stuff from his garden or 82 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING lawn, which properly husbanded will reduce the cost of feeding his animals during the sum- mer months to a very small amount. If more grass or clover is gathered than can be eaten up at once, it should be spread on a wire rack so that it will cure without molding or sweat- ing. Then it can be used with perfect safety; It is best to feed a variety when using green stuff rather than to depend wholly upon any one article like dandelions, for example, cab- bages, or beet tops. Some rabbit keepers lay great stress upon the value of cabbages, especially in the winter, although others, as has been stated, condemn its use at any time. Certain it is that cabbages often constitute the only green food that many rabbits get during the winter months, because cabbages can be kept for a long time if prop- erly stored. It may be said in this connection, though, that the cabbages should not be al- lowed to freeze if they are to be fed to rabbits. They should be kept in a cool place so that they will not decay, but in a place that is above the freezing point. If any of the outside leaves are beginning to decay, they should be carefully removed. There is one disadvan- WHAT AND HOW TO FEED 83 tage in the feeding of cabbages, and one which should be considered when the rabbits are kept indoors. This vegetable causes the urine to have a very strong odor, which in many cases is very objectionable. Some such result follows the use of certain other vegetables, but it is particularly pronounced in the case of cabbages. : It is of decided advantage to have a garden, because the liberal use of vegetables and green foods helps to reduce the cost of raising one’s rabbits, and because the animals thrive espec- ially well on such food, although it will need to be supplemented with some grain and hay. In this country great stress is laid upon the value of carrots, which are called the best veg- etables for rabbits of all kinds. It is claimed that carrots help to create a liberal flow of milk if fed to a breeding doe, and that they aid in producing a fine, glossy coat when given to exhibition animals. Yet it is quite possible that the value of carrots is somewhat over- emphasized, possibly because of the fact that rabbits are exceedingly fond of carrots and eat them with the greatest avidity. English breeders who have had more ex- 84 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING perience than most of the members of the fancy in this country pin their faith to parsnips, although amateurs in England and in France favor the theory of the superlative value of carrots. Analysis shows that parsnips have greater food value, and the same richness in sugar and essential oils. At the same time it must be admitted that any food which pro- vokes the appetite is likely to be more bene- ficial in some ways at least than that which is eaten with less relish. Parsnips should be grown, at any rate, and can be left in the ground all winter, being ready for use in the spring as soon as they can be dug. The amount kept outside should be limited, though, because parsnips have to be used quickly after they are dug in the spring. Of course a few boxes of parsnips may be stored in the cellar in the fall. Both carrots and beets should also be grown for winter use. Turnips may be added to the list, especially the Swedes called rutabagas, as they can be grown cheaply and assume large size in good ground. It should be stated in passing that beets which have been allowed to freeze should never be fed to rabbits. WHAT AND HOW TO FEED 85 The statement is sometimes heard that veg- etables stored for winter in the average cellar will wilt in a few months, and wilted vege- tables, as all admit, are not desirable for stock any more than for humans. With a little care, though, this wilt can be prevented, and the vegetables kept fresh and crisp until spring. It is only necessary to store the vegetables in clean sand. A layer of sand should be put in the bottom of the box, and the sand sifted around and over each layer of vegetables. If sand is not available, autumn leaves can be used as a substitute. They may not be quite so efficient, but they will keep the vegetables in good condition for a long time. If the cel- lar happens to be heated by a furnace, the boxes should be put in as cool a corner as can be found, and wherever the atmosphere is dry it may be necessary from time to time to sprinkle the sand a little, or to keep the boxes closely covered with paper. A vegetable of which rabbits are exceed- ingly fond and which can be grown with the greatest ease, and yet which is almost un- known in American gardens, is Witloof Chic- ory. It is really an improved form of the 86 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING common wild chicory, and is extensively forced for winter use across the water. In times past great quantities of this forced Wit- loof, or as it is called in the restaurants, French endive, were sent to this country from Belgium, but of course that trade was entirely upset by the war. Owing to the lack of im- portations, a number of American gardeners began to grow it in a commercial way, and roots can be obtained in the fall. There is no reason, though, why any amateur shoudn’t grow this salad vegetable in his own garden, and it is only necessary to plant seed in the spring, to thin the young plants sa that they will stand a foot apart, and to dig up roots when fall comes, keeping them in a cool place until they are wanted. If the roots are buried in boxes of earth, with the crowns just at the surface, and the boxes kept in a warm place and the earth oc- casionally moistened, white, crisp shoots will soon start, and when a few inches high can be cut for the table. The heads will grow more compact and straight if three or four inches of sand be placed over the crowns in the box. ‘The shoots will come right up through this WHAT AND HOW TO FEED 87 sand, but should be cut just above the roots. They will grow up two or three times. While this salad is highly prized for table use, it is an excellent food for rabbits of all ages. In order to get the sprouts white they must be grown in a dark place, or a second box be upturned over the one containing the roots. The rabbits are not particular about the color or delicacy of flavor, however. They are just as well satisfied with the green leaves which come when the plants are grown in the light indoors, and the larger leaves which are produced in the open outside. The leaves make a rank growth, and the plants come up the second year, so that this is a particularly easy vegetable to cultivate. It should be watched, however, and not allowed to run wild or it may turn into a weed. Another good form of green food is Curly Scotch Kale. The particular advantage of this lies in the fact that it comes very late in the season, not being affected by early frosts, and often lasting until Christmas, even in the northern states. A few plants provide a large amount of food. Kale, like cabbage, makes ill smelling hutches. Dwarf Essex Rape, such 88 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING as is commonly used for hogs and. chickens, is an easily raised though less valuable food, perhaps, for rabbits. It can be obtained very quickly in the spring, which is a point in its favor. New Zealand spinach is another good vege- table for the period lasting from mid-summer to late fall. It is especially to be prized in a small garden because a single short row will be sufficient. If only the outer leaves are har- vested, it will continually renew itself, pro- viding a continuous supply of greens. Rabbits are also very fond of celery tops. Corn stalks may be fed green and cured but should not be fed if moldy. | While most vegetables should be fed raw, . potatoes must always be cooked, if they are to be given to rabbits at all. They contain too much starch in a raw state. They are not rel- ished by the rabbits when raw, anyway, but are eaten fairly well when cooked, especially when mixed with a little bran or other grain. It will hardly pay to grow potatoes for rabbits but the small specimens, many of which are usually produced along with the large tubers, constitute a sort of by-product which can be WHAT AND HOW TO FEED 89 used profitably for feeding the rabbits. Cer- tainly an occasional feeding of warm, cooked potatoes, mixed with bran, is relished, and has a beneficial effect. So much for garden vegetables for rabbit feeding. More than usual attention has been given to this phase of the subject because it is felt that amateurs and even commercial rabbit growers can greatly reduce their expenses, es- pecially in times when grain is high, and thus make rabbit raising more profitable by grow- ing a large proportion of the food needed to keep them in good condition. It is not to be assumed, though, that the amount of grain re- quired for a few rabbits constitutes a heavy item of expense. It is true that some people raise their rabbits wholly on green food and ‘vegetables with the addition of hay. Less rapid growth is made, though, and the rabbits are less suitable for meat purposes, the flesh being too soft. A certain amount of grain is almost indispensable for good even growth, and to improve the texture of the flesh. At the same time an excess of grain is objectionable, making the meat too hard to be wholly satis- factory. Experienced breeders like to use 90 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING more or less cooked potatoes and various root crops to develop meat of the best quality. It is reasonable to suppose that the rabbit keeper will use the kind of grain which is most plentiful and consequently the cheapest in his section. Oats are considered by most rabbit keepers the best grain, but there is no good reason for giving them precedence over bar- ley, wheat, or even corn. Whole corn is eaten readily by the larger rabbits and boiled corn makes an excellent ration. Some rabbits have a habit of husking the oats given them, and oftentimes hulled oats are preferable to any other kind. For young stock crushed oats are to be preferred as more easily digested. There is no reason why the rabbit keeper should not have a small hand mill and prepare his own oats. The use of moist mashes containing bran, corn meal, barley meal, and possibly a little gluten meal has been much discussed in the pet stock magazines, with numerous argu- ments pro and con. There seems to be no spe- cial reason why they shouldn’t be used, and yet no very good reason why they should, except that the preparation occasions more labor than WHAT AND HOW TO FEED gi that of dry grains, and results are no better except as a sort of pick-me-up during the win- ter season when a rabbit is run down, perhaps from excessive breeding. Hay is absolutely necessary. It should be bright clean hay, too, alfalfa, clover or tim- othy. Quite commonly a little hay is put into the hutch for bedding, and the rabbits eat some of it. It is well, though, to have a rack on the wall at one end of the hutch where fresh clean hay can be put. Such a rack is easily made from a few laths or from poultry wire with a two-inch mesh. When it comes to milk, one again finds ar- guments for and against its use. Sometimes the rabbits themselves decline to eat milk at all, but usually they seem to relish it. Whatever may be said, experiments seem to show that dry bread soaked in milk makes an exceed- ingly beneficial food for does just before and after their young are born. It isn’t necessary to develop any of the elaborate feeding for- mulas sometimes recommended at this time. A healthy doe will get along very well on oats and hay, if given a supplementary feeding of carrots and other succulent roots. Neverthe- 92 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING less bread and milk help to keep the doe in better condition and better flesh during this trying period. A better flow of the lacteal fluid seems to be created also, which is import- ant if the litter is a large one. Beginners often ask if table scraps cannot be fed to rabbits. They can be given, in mod- eration and with limitations. Meat should be withheld, although some rabbit keepers advise the use of fresh chopped beef. Rich, sweet foods should be kept out of the rabbitry, but pieces of stale cake and of dry hard bread may be fed without fear. All that has been said applies to rabbits that have reached the age of three or four months. With young stock the feeding of green food must be done very carefully. For the first few weeks it is best that they have none at all. Af- ter that a little may be given, and the amount increased gradually, but if the rabbits are seen to be growing big and pouchy under the stom- ach, the amount of green food should be re- duced or cut off entirely, because the condition known as pot-belly is being produced. This is a common trouble with youngsters which have too much food of any kind, and espec- WHAT AND HOW TO FEED 93 ially an excess of green stuff. When the youngsters first begin to come out of the nest they should not be allowed to feed on the rations provided for the mother. A board may be set in front of the nest box at feeding time, or the doe may be removed and fed in another hutch. Under ordinary circumstances two feedings a day are sufficient, and they should be as wide apart as possible. Most rabbits, and especially Belgian hares, are particularly active after nightfall, sleeping much of the day. The best time to give them their heavy meal is just be- fore dusk. Then it is that their grain ration should be set before them. The amount will vary with the size of the rabbits. Belgian hares require about a handful of oats at a time. Giants take a little more. All rabbits with young require about twice as much as at other times. A little hay should also be given at night. In the morning vegetables and hay can be fed. It is important that no food be left in the hutch for very long except hay. Bread and milk, or anything that is likely to sour, must be removed promptly and the dishes carefully scoured. Green food must 94 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING not be left in the hutch after the rabbits have had their fill. It is always better to keep the animals a little on the hungry side, rather than to overfeed them. Probably over-feeding has caused more losses than any other one thing. A breeding doe just before kindling and while nursing her young should have three meals a day without fail. Rabbits, like most other animals, seem to require asmall amount of salt. Some breeders keep a little rock salt in the hutches at all times. Others think that the animals get an excess when this is done, and prefer to mix a little salt at intervals, say twice a week, with a mash or perhaps in their oats. What are called salt spools are now on the market. They are simply round cakes of specially prepared salt with a hole in the middle by which they can be spiked to the side of the hutch or sus- pended by a cord. When the rabbits are feeding freely on green stuff, they do not require much water, but at other times should be watered at least twice a day, being given all they can drink. This is the best plan in the winter time, but in summer it is more humane and easier to keep a WHAT AND HOW TO FEED — 95 water before the animals at all times. Special water dishes not easily tipped over are on the market. Butter crocks are sometimes used, and can be kept from being overturned by the use of four upright spikes or wooden knobs fastened to the hutch floor. Sometimes metal dishes are used and fastened to the side of the hutch. Any dish which is loose, unless very heavy, will be overturned by the rabbits and the contents spilled. As has been said in an- other chapter, does about to kindle should have water at hand at all times. Many patented foods or proprietary mashes are on the market. Their use is not recom- mended. Some of them may be valuable and cost no more than ordinary grain rations, but many contain stimulative ingredients which in the long run are injurious. Chapter X. SIMPLE RULES FOR BREEDING ANY rabbit books are devoted very M largely to the subject of breeding. That is because they are written for the benefit of the fancier. It is necessary to know all about the breed which one is hand- ling if one’s aim is to produce exhibition stock. There are little matters in connection with the breeding of one kind of rabbit which may not apply to that of another. When one is raising rabbits for utility purposes, it isn’t necessary to be so particular, but there are certain funda- mentals which must not be overlooked if suc- cess is to be won. The fancier who is trying to secure high class rabbits which will win in a show room or bring a long price when sold often limits the number of litters produced by each doe to two a year. On the other hand, some breeders who are working wholly for meat production, 96 SIMPLE RULES FOR BREEDING 97 allow their does to breed six or even more times a season, perhaps breeding them when their young are a few weeks old. The does themselves are turned into meat before they are two years old. Between these extremes comes that of the average breeder who aims to produce some rabbits good enough to sell for breeders or perhaps to exhibit, but whose main object is the rearing of utility stock. Such breeders obtain four or possibly five lit- ters a year, and destroy some of the young as soon as born if the litter is larger than the mother can easily care for. This is a logical and intelligent plan. The does are not weak- ened as when they bear an excessive number of young, and the youngsters themselves have sufficient stamina to give them a good start in life. The breeder whose mind is fixed wholly on meat production pays little attention to the general appearance of the rabbits which he uses. He simply tries to have them vigorous and of good size. It is a good plan for the amateur, though, to use some care in selecting his breeding stock, trying to get as good a class of animals as possible without including those 98 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING which have been weakened by being bred too fine. For years there will be a sale for breed- ing stock, and the average amateur can dispose of a certain number of animals at a better price than when they are turned into meat. Meat breeders have size as their standard, and they try to choose rabbits for breeding stock which have broad backs and heavy hind quar- ters, because like produces like, and the young of such animals will make good looking rab- bits when dressed. It is important to choose a large buck, for with rabbits as with poultry much depends upon the male side of the line. The buck always ought to be as good as or better than the doe. It is thought by some breeders that extra good meat animals are ob- tained by crossing, using Flemish Giants. These Giants crossed with New Zealand Reds or with Belgian hares produce excellent meat stock. The result of these crosses should not be used for breeding, however, at least as re- gards the bucks. Good results may be obtained by breeding a thoroughbred buck to a cross- bred doe. It is folly to breed immature animals. The doe may be ruined and the young are pretty SIMPLE RULES FOR BREEDING 99 certain to be weak, especially if the litter is a large one. Maturity depends somewhat upon the way in which the animals are cared for, but does of the smaller and medium size breeds are ready for mating when six or seven months old. It is better to wait two months longer with larger breeds, like the Flemish Giants. Of course the time of the year must be taken into account. It is best when possible to start breeding in the spring, as that is the most nat- ural time. Moreover, it is much easier to care for the youngsters after the weather begins to get warm. When rabbits are born in cold weather, extra care must be taken to keep the hutches warm and free from drafts or damp- ness. At the same time, artificial heat, except in the case of lop-eared rabbits, is not desir- able. That being the case, many breeders allow their animals to rest during the winter months, or until February. Breeding early in the year has some distinct advantages, one of which is that the youngsters get well grown before hot weather comes. It has been found that rabbits born before May are usually more vigorous than those which come along later in 100 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING the season. This is an important point, es- pecially to the utility breeder. Breeding stock can be kept for several years before their powers wane. In France, where rabbit breeding has been made a science, the breeding stock is considered to be at its best between the ages of eight and fifteen months. Exhibition rabbits may be kept for breeding purposes up to four or five years, but when meat is the object desired, it is best to dispose of them earlier, before the meat gets too tough. Rabbits have been known to breed up to ten years and even when older. Reading the usual ‘flamboyant advertise- ments about the remarkable fecundity of rab- bits, one infers that the young keep coming along in an uninterrupted stream the whole year around. The truth is, though, that breed- ing is not easily affected after the beginning of August and up until late winter. At that time the rabbits are molting and breeding is . not recommended in any event if one is look- ing for high grade stock. It may be forced when meat is the object. Old-time breeders say that feeding peas that have been soaked in water helps to induce breeding, the peas being SIMPLE RULES FOR BREEDING 101 given for about a week in addition to the other feed. Feeding a little whole corn and also apple-tree bark will cause some does to get into breeding condition. Various other prac- tices are recommended, but their value is doubtful. ~ When a doe is to be bred, it is always best to remove her to the hutch occupied by the buck. This seems to be the concensus of opin- ion among experienced breeders now. If the buck is put into the doe’s hutch, she is likely to resent his intrusion and offer combat. Ex- perienced breeders learn to know when to handle a doe, especially in the spring, taking note when she becomes restless and stamps .around her hutch. The beginner, however, will have to try her. She should be lifted gently and placed in the buck’s hutch. Some breeders leave the animals together for several hours or over night, but this is not a wise plan. If the doe hugs the floor or runs wildly around the pen, she should be removed in a few mo- ments, and tried again the next day, this being kept up as long as necessary. In spring, es- pecially, the doe is ready for the buck at perio- dical intervals of about five days. If the time 102 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING is right she will make no resistance. It is important for beginners to understand that it is often difficult to induce a virgin doe to breed ; sometimes many trials have to be made before she is safely bred. It often happens, though, that a doe is re- moved before she has been bred when she is handled by a novice. Then at the end of the month a complaint may be made that the buck is useless. The animals should always be watched, and when the buck falls over on his side or backwards, the owner will know that service has been complete. One service is better than several, and in a few moments the animals should be separated. A buck should not be used oftener than two or three times a week. After the doe has been put back into her hutch she should be kept as quiet as possible until her babies come. They usually arrive in thirty days, but sometimes are delayed for a day. The does must have a special nesting box which may be a permanent part of the hutch or a smaller box with an opening a little larger than the doe cut into one side. This opening should face away from the light. It SIMPLE RULES FOR BREEDING 103 may be a good plan to bore a few holes in the sides of the box for extra ventilation. Soft hay is the best nesting material, and an abundance of it should be supplied. Sometimes, though, a doe will pack her nesting box too full of hay. The nest is lined with fur which the doe tears from her body. The nest is usually made ready a few days before the young are due. It sometimes happens, though, that nest making is commenced within a few days after service. When that occurs it can be taken as an indica- tion that the doe was not successfully bred. She should be introduced to the buck again at once in order to avoid the loss of three weeks’ time or more. The birth of the youngsters usually takes place easily, but the doe becomes very thirsty and a supply of fresh water should be kept in her hutch. Oats should also be kept at hand for several days before the event takes place. Sometimes a doe develops an abnormal appe- tite and devours her own young. This un- pleasant happening can be prevented often- times by hanging a piece of salt pork in the hutch where the doe can readily obtain it. After the doe emerges from the nest box, a 104 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING careful but cautious examination should be made, and the dead rabbits removed from the nest. A litter often runs as high as ten, and may reach fifteen or sixteen. Now a rabbit has only eight teats, and sometimes in the case of the Belgian hare, only six. If there are any excess young remaining alive, the weakest looking of the lot should be destroyed. It is much better to have a doe raise six or seven robust, healthy youngsters than ten or a dozen that are weak and undernourished. With fancy stock, a foster-mother is sometimes used for part of the litter. Dutch does are consid- ered especially good foster-mothers. Quite often rabbit breeders are told that they should have several does produce their young at the same time, so that the litters can be divided up. This is a much more difficult matter to arrange, however, than it sounds, and seldom can be worked out satisfactorily except on a plant where a large number of rabbits are kept. Being blind and naked when they are born, the young rabbits are perfectly helpless. They make rapid growth, though, and in less than three weeks are to be seen poking their heads SIMPLE RULES FOR BREEDING 10s through the nest opening. Then they begin to make furtive dashes into the light, beating a hasty retreat when anyone appears and tumb- ling over themselves in a mad dash to get out of sight. In four weeks or a little more, they lose most’ of their shyness and are to be seen playing about the hutch. Does differ in individual traits; some are very docile and tame, while others are nervous and easily excited. With animals of the latter characteristics, visitors should be kept away for some days after the young have been pro- duced. It may be wise in such cases to post- pone examining the nest for several days. A French writer says that rabbits habitually suckle their young very early in the morning, and again between six and eight o’clock in the evening, but occasionally we find a doe nurs- ing her young during the day. Obviously they should not be disturbed at this time. If a doe is frightened she is likely to drag her babies into the open hutch, as they attach themselves very firmly to her teats. She will seldom carry them back again, and they are likely to perish. Most breeders know what it is to find a collection of little dead rabbits scattered 106 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING around the hutch at some time or other. It always makes it easier to examine the nest by giving the doe a little green food to distract her attention. In a rabbitry where a number of animals are kept, it is advisable to maintain a stud book. In fact, a book of this kind is absolutely necessary when a business of any proportions is carried on, unless some kind of record blank is attached to each hutch. The point is that the breeder must know exactly when his does are to litter, or to use the common expression among rabbit breeders, to kindle. This can be known only by keeping a record of the dates on which the does were bred. The stud book or record sheet should also have a place for the number of young produced in each litter, and other information. There is a bugaboo which looms large on the horizon of many rabbit keepers, both ama- teurs and those in the professional class. It relates to what is called in-breeding. Most of the rabbit books gotten out by commercial growers lay great stress on the danger of the inter-breeding of rabbits having a close blood relationship. Much of this danger is purely SIMPLE RULES FOR BREEDING 107 imaginary. With all kinds of animals in- breeding has been practiced continually for many years to fix a type or to secure high grade exhibition stock. This is true of rabbits as it is of horses and cattle. Now in the pro- duction of animals purely for meat purposes, in-breeding is neither desirable nor necessary. In fact, cross-breeding seems to give better re- sults when the cross is made only once. The truth is that the average breeder does not un- derstand what is meant by the terms. In their book called “Rabbit and Cavy Cul- ture,” Messrs. Roth and Cornman devote much space to the consideration of this whole subject. The following is a brief and trench- ant explanation of the terms mentioned: “Cross-breeding is the mating of two thor- oughbred breeds of diverse species, as the Hackney and Trotting horse, Alderney and Holstein cow, Bulldog and Hound, Belgian and Flemish, or Dutch and Silver, etc. Sub- sequent matings of such offspring can be line- or in-bred. “Line-breeding is mating individual spec- imens of a breed when interruption in rela- tionship exists by remoteness. 108 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING “In-breeding is the mating of close related ones of the same species. “With regard to this latter form of breeding the United States Bureau of Animal In- dustry has bred brother and sister mated in sequence order down to the roth generation, cavies being the example, and regarding which Dr. Schroeder writes, ‘We have found nothing to indicate that the intensest form of in-breeding, carried on for nine or ten gene- rations, is injurious. That for the preserva- tion and perpetuation of especially fine points, and for the establishment of new breeds through the selection of naturally occurring mutations we are practically forced to resort to in-breeding.’ “One factor stands out pre-eminently above all others in its relation to breeding, no matter along what line the latter is practiced—that of health, and the possibilities from heredity. One should never mate specimens containing physical defects, not when affected with dis- ease whose transmission is known to influence the offspring. I am not alluding to physical faults, not to diseases that are curable by proper treatment. These will not transmit SIMPLE RULES FOR BREEDING 109 defects; but in the event of in-breeding, es- sentially close in-breeding, physical defects will likely be greatly accentuated, and consti- tutional disease all the more.” The fancier must understand line-breeding, but unless he practices restraint, he may be tempted to go too far and use animals lacking in stamina, thus producing a strain that is physically degenerate. It is considered wise to mate an old doe with a young buck, and vice versa, rather than two old rabbits, however good. Chapter XI. RAISING THE YOUNG STOCK D*: usually wean their young when the latter are about six weeks old, al- though a little longer time may be allowed in cold weather. It isn’t necessary to remove the youngsters at once, however, as they can be left with the doe for some time, unless the hutch is over-crowded. When six weeks old, though, they can take care of them- selves, and probably will grow faster than if left with the doe. Sometimes the youngsters are removed at an earlier date, as they are seen to be eating the food given the mother, but this is a serious mistake. It is important to give the youngsters room enough to run around and ex- ercise freely. With Belgian hares rather long hutches are sometimes used, the hutch contain- ing hurdles over which the youngsters are forced to leap. This is supposed to develop the long, racy body type which is desired in IIo RAISING THE YOUNG STOCK 111 rabbits of this breed. It is even more neces- sary in the case of young rabbits than mature animals to keep the hutch clean and sanitary, the floor being covered with sawdust, leaves, hay or peat. Filth of any kind fosters diseases which are difficult to eradicate. The feeding of the young rabbits is an im- portant matter, but will be found covered in Chapter VIII. If the weather is cold, special care must be taken to keep the youngsters warm. The hutch should be in a tight building, and it may be necessary to drop a blanket or some other cov- ering over the front at night. Raising young animals in winter always has disadvantages, except in a rabbitry equipped for the purpose, or in the warmer parts of the country. By the time they are three or three and one- half months old, the sexes should be separated. It becomes possible to tell them apart at that age by a physical examination, as described in Chapter VII. If the sexes are left together longer there is danger that the does will be prematurely bred, to their lasting injury. The bucks, too, will begin to fight among them- selves. Sometimes bucks that have grown up 112 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING in the same litter can be confined in the same hutch or pen for some time longer, if they have plenty of room. Quarrels are pretty likely to come about, however, and valuable rabbits may be seriously injured, perhaps hav- ing their ears torn, or their noses mutilated. Naturally the breeder who is raising utility stock will get rid of all surplus bucks very quickly, keeping only a few of the best ani- mals, so that he can maintain a ratio of one buck to eight or ten does at all times. Amateurs often find it possible to sell well- marked young bucks for breeding purposes. The fancier will select such animals as prom- ise to be of special value and let the others go, possibly for meat. Some breeders seem to think that it is ad- visable to have small hutches and to keep only two or three young rabbits in each hutch. This, however, is not good policy. The grow- ing stock needs plenty of room, and compan- ionship. It usually is quite possible to unite the does of the various litters. The meat breeder will find it advantageous to have his males castrated before they are four months old. The flesh of rabbits becomes RAISING THE YOUNG STOCK 113 too soft and flabby to be satisfactory if the young animals are kept closely confined. The exercise which they get when romping in large hutches or in yards puts the meat into the best of condition. With rabbits raised for exhibition, this same method of handling is wise because it puts the rabbits into the best physical condition, which is as important with fancy stock as with utility animals. If young rabbits when purchased are found to be wild, the reason is that they have not been handled sufficiently. Rabbits that come from large plants are likely to be much wilder than those raised by amateurs with only a small business because the extensive breeders have less time and opportunity for working with and handling their youngsters. At the same time the rabbits must not be worried or tor- mented. This is an important matter to bear in mind when there are children on the place. A rabbit that is shrinking and timid, or that is ill-tempered and tries to fight or commences stamping when anyone approaches is not an animal to be desired, however well it may be marked. 114 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING Between the ages of eight and sixteen weeks, the rabbits usually go through a molt and sometimes become out of condition. If they come from good stock, though, there should be no trouble at all at this time. Chapter XII. EXHIBITING AND SELLING ANY a man has begun keeping rab- M bits without the slightest intention of ever putting his animals into a show, but after having become interested in the improvement of his stock, has become an enthusiastic exhibitor. A few commercial rabbit keepers exhibit solely for advertising purposes, realizing that by having prize win- ners in their hutches they can get better prices for their breeding stock. These are not the men who give the best tone to the fancy. It is the amateur who enjoys a keen competition and loves to associate with fellow breeders and talk over different matters pertaining to their mutual hobby, who is the backbone of the in- dustry. Naturally enough, the showing of rabbits leads to their sale, for people always like to buy from a breeder who has produced prize-winning animals. IIs 116 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING Of course it is necessary to have first class foundation stock if one is going to show with success, but it is just as necessary to understand the principles of breeding, and the idiosyn- crasies of the different breeds. Many points can be learned from books and from discus- sions, but others must be learned by personal experience. To begin with, one must be fa- miliar with the standard and have an ideal in mind. Then when he has produced what seems to him to be a rabbit worth showing, he must put it into proper condition for exhibi- tion. In many cases preparation has much to do with winning prizes, especially now that competition has become sharp. It is most es- sential to keep the animals in the best of health, giving them plenty of exercise and feeding them the best of rations, although not in excess. Most breeds should have a sleek, smooth coat to please the judges, and all short coated varieties should be carefully groomed. Mr. C. J. Davies, one of the most noted of the British rabbit breeders, has given the follow- ing instructions for preparing rabbits for the show room: “The best thing to put a finishing gloss on EXHIBITING AND SELLING 117 the coat is to add a small teaspoonful of lin- seed to the concentrated food of each exhibit daily for two or three weeks before the show. No advantage is gained by boiling the seed. Whole seed is preferable to meal, as it keeps better and the fancier can see what he is buy- ing. Linseed cake is sometimes used; but as the best cakes only contain about 10 per cent. of oil, whereas the whole seed probably con- tains about 35 per cent., the latter is better value for money spent on it. “Angora rabbits need regular brushing every day to keep them in show form, and on the day before the show white Angoras and Polish will be the better for a dusting with white prepared fuller’s earth. Exhibitors of Polish specially recommend flour thoroughly dried in the oven, with 2 oz. blue added to 1 Ib. of flour, as a coat cleaning agent. All such preparations must be thoroughly got rid of with a clean brush or the rabbit may be dis- qualified. “Dark-coated rabbits require no real grooming, although some fanciers make a practice of smoothing the coat with the palm of the hand into which a speck of vaseline or 118 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING a drop of paraffin oil has been well rubbed. It is safer for the novice to content himself with a rub down with a ‘Selvyt’ or a silk hand- kerchief, which will do all that is required if the rabbit is as fit as it should be. “Rabbits suffer considerably from being ex- hibited, as is proved by the fact that in the writer’s experience adults will lose several ounces in weight and growing youngsters fail to add to their weight during the time (and for a few days after) they are away. The ob- vious moral is not to show valuable animals too frequently. “Many rabbit breeders, with an entire dis- regard for the comfort of their stock, send them in boxes which are far too small. A use- ful size of box for a 5 lb. rabbit is 16 in. to 18 in. long, 10 in. wide, and 11 in. high. Bel- gian hares and Flemish Giants require much larger boxes, and Polish may be sent in rather smaller ones; but it is wiser to use an unneces- sarily large box for a valuable rabbit than to risk cramping it for the sake of a few pence extra on the railway charge. Ventilation must be provided in the form of holes about 4 in. in diameter cut in each end of the box and EXHIBITING AND SELLING 119 covered with perforated zinc. A piece of wood screwed over each ventilation hole will prevent the box from being packed so tightly against another package that all air is ex- cluded. “As several rabbits travel more cheaply in one box than in separate packages, two, three, or four compartment boxes or baskets, fur- nished with a separate inner lid to each com- partment, are used by exhibitors. The box should be well hinged, have a good fastener (preferably a strap and buckle, the strap nailed to the box and passed right round it, as this form is fool-proof), and for comfort in carrying a strap handle on top. Rabbits must not be sent to shows in boxes which are nailed up Or inconvenient to manipulate in any way. All railway charges have to be defrayed by the exhibitor. A handful of sawdust should be thrown into the travelling-box, placing thereon a good layer of the best hay procur- able. A crust of bread and a good slice of root or apple should be put in and the box is ready for its occupant.” . Of course the rabbit breeder will try to enter no animals which have disqualifications 120 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING such as wry tail or crooked legs, or one that is molting. Animals which give evidence of disease in any form must, of course, be eliminated. Sales are often made in the show room, and others as a result of the winnings. Naturally the exhibitor will hesitate to dispose of the rabbits which have won for him, but he will gladly have orders for the progeny of his winners. It sometimes happens that zeal to make sales will lead the breeder to misrepre- sent his stock to some extent. This is a funda- mental mistake. No breeder can go on suc- cessfully unless he recognizes at the start that honesty is in fact as well as in theory the best policy. Only animals in the best of condition should be sold unless the buyer has first seen them and knows just what he is getting. The stock sometimes sent out to unsuspecting ama- teurs is,a disgrace to the breeders who ship them. As a means of protection the practice of registering rabbits has been adopted, and only thoroughbred animals are eligible to registry. Registering is done under the direction of the National Breeders’ and Fanciers’ Association, EXHIBITING AND SELLING tar which is the leading organization of the United States, and the one with which all societies are affiliated. Registrars are: estab- lished in different parts of the country. The breeders ship their animals to this man who inspects them carefully, and if they prove sat- isfactory as to physical features, etc., a registry number is stamped on the ear. When a reg- istered rabbit is purchased, the buyer feels that the animal is practically guaranteed. It sometimes happens that a dispute arises between buyers and sellers. In that case the question at issue may be placed before a com- plaint agent appointed for different sections. His decision must be considered final by all members of the National Association. The fee for registering a rabbit is one dol- lar, and registrations must be sent to the sec- retary of the association not later than thirty days after the animal is registered. The ped- igree of an animal to be registered must always accompany the application. The pedigree is the ancestral tree of the animal. It should date back for three generations on each side, the name of each progenitor being given. A pedigree is arranged as indicated below. 122 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING It is, of course, true, as often charged, that pedigrees can be faked, and that this dishonest practice is common. As a matter of fact, fak- King King II | Queen King Il - Duke | CountessII | Countess” King IV - Duke | Countess Duke IT Queen III King Queen II | Queen — ing is done by fewer breeders than may be sup- posed, and obviously there is no good reason for opposing pedigrees because a few fakers exist. The man or woman selling rabbits should keep a card index so that he or she will know the history of every rabbit in the hutches, and the disposition which is made of it. If the seller is wise, he will send a blank receipt to his customer to be filled in and returned. If this receipt states that the animal was received and found to be as represented, there will be no EXHIBITING AND SELLING 123 ground for dispute in the future. Every order should be acknowledged as soon as received, and filled as promptly as possible. It is helpful to send out some instructions for the use of buyers who have had no pre- vious experience. A set of rules for buyers printed on small slips of paper can be pur- chased at a low price from supply houses. These rules include the following: All stock shall be in perfect condition and free from disease when it leaves our possession, unless stated otherwise in writing. Any animal dying after it leaves our possession is at the risk of the owner and we are in no way responsible for same. Stock that is sick, crippled, damaged or a part of it dead when it reaches the purchaser should be accepted and before signing your name on the Express delivery book you should write on the book in ink the nature of the damage or loss; then, immediately write us a letter giving the facts and we will enter a claim against the Express Com- pany and collect for the loss and immediately re- place the loss to you and ship same all charges paid. Where shipment is a total loss it should not be accepted. \ Use care in not overfeeding or underfeeding your stock. Give them every morning what oats 124 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING they will clean up in about 45 minutes, also clean pure water. At night give them hay as they are nocturnal eaters and keep at it all night. Filthy water produces worms, Do not let every Tom, Dick and Harry dis- courage you. Use your own good common sense. If you need advice, write us for it. Many people are constantly taking the joy out of life and as we want you to be successful we will help you gladly at all times. When you are ready to sell the stock you raise let us hear from you and we will help you find a market. To be successful in any new undertaking you must read, study, experiment and stick-to-it until you master your problem. Chapter XIII. PREPARING RABBITS FOR THE TABLE as extensive proportions in America as abroad increasing attention must be given to the production of meat. Already that is the phase of the business which appeals most to a large number of people. So far, however, the demand for breeding stock has been so persistent that only a limited number of an- imals have been available for market pur- poses. How long this will continue nobody can tell, but it is certain every effort should be made by commercial rabbit.keepers to extend the demand for meat animals as rapidly as possible. Otherwise that demand may not exist in a large way when the point of satura- tion is reached. A constantly increasing army of commuters and other people find rabbit meat unsurpassed 125 LT the rabbit industry is going to assume 126 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING for the table, and large numbers of rabbits are being raised for private consumption. This, of course, will help to increase the general demand. As it is now, this demand is growing in most of the larger cities, but in the smaller cities and towns there is almost no call for meat in hotels or restaurants. Rabbit meat is served regularly on the Pacific coast, as a mat- ter of course. Many rabbits are also being purchased by dealers in New York. Rabbit breeders in states as far away as Massachusetts and New Hampshire are sending all their sur- plus stock to the big cities, where they get from 15 to 40 cents a pound. A few dealers in Boston and other eastern cities are adver- tising for rabbits. In some places the larger breeders buy up the occasional animals offered by the smaller breeders in their section and make shipments to city dealers. In places. where there is a large foreign population, sales are particularly easy to make. Belgian hare meat can be served in a great number of ways, and is quite as delicious as chicken. There is just one point in the cook- ing to remember, which is that the meat is rather dry, and must be parboiled or treated RABBITS FOR THE TABLE 127 in some other way to remedy this difficulty. Because this point is not recognized is the rea- son that rabbit meat is often set down as tough and unpalatable. It stands to reason that the relatively young rabbit is better than one which is old. At the same time they may be used up to the age of two years. Rabbits three or four months old are especially good when served as friers. When it comes to killing a rabbit for the first time, the amateur must keep the matter _ out of his thoughts as much as possible, for the job is not a pleasant one. After a little ex- perience, though, it can be done quickly and without making such an unpleasant impres- sion. If possible kill the animal in the morn- ing before feeding. The best plan is to grasp the animal by the hind legs and then to deal it a sudden sharp blow just behind the ears with the side of the hand or, better still, with a short stick. The point mentioned is partic- ularly vulnerable, so that a very hard blow is not needed. Immediately the jugular vein should be cut, which is done by driving the knife into the side of the neck just below the ear, and the animal hung head down to bleed. 128 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING Sometimes the throat is cut squarely across. It is a good plan to have two hooks fastened to a post or the wall at the right height to receive the hind legs. The hooks can be run through the skin between the bone and the ten- don. Some breeders cut off the head as soon as the animal has been stunned and cook it for the poultry. The rabbit will bleed profusely for a few minutes in any event, and it is well to have a pan or bucket partly filled with bran to catch the blood. This mixture can also be fed to chickens. Of course if the rabbits are to be marketed, the head must be left on. Pri- vate customers, though, will want the animal dressed and cut up before it is delivered, and will not care for the head, unless they happen to come from one of the European countries, in which case they may demand it, for in Eu- rope the head is commonly cooked and used for making soup stock. When it comes to dressing the animal, a very sharp knife should be used, but with great care so that the bladder will not be pene- trated. The abdomen is first opened by mak- ing a six-inch slit through which the entrails may be removed. A gall bag will be found in RABBITS FOR THE TABLE 129 the liver and should be carefully taken off. The lungs, liver, heart and kidneys are left in place. After being cleaned the carcass should be left hanging for a few hours before it is shipped away. It isn’t best to soak the carcass in salted water at this time, as is sometimes done, but there is no objection to doing this for half an hour just before the rabbit is to be cooked. No water should be used in cleaning the rabbit, but a damp cloth may be employed to remove any spots of blood which may appear. The appearance of a dressed rabbit some- times prejudices people against it when they see it for the first time. Doubtless this preju- dice will disappear in the course of a few years, but in the meantime it often pays to cut the rabbit into smaller pieces before de- livering it to customers. In his Government Bulletin, Mr. Lantz recommends that rabbits when packed for market should be placed in a basket or hamper having movable slatted trays so that the carcasses may be kept packed in separate layers. Such a hamper permits the free circulation of air, not only on the edge, but also throughout the package, and 130 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING the carcasses packed in this way reach their destination in an attractive state instead of being in the messy condition so often seen in the wild rabbits marketed in America. Cer- tain it is that a good business cannot be built up unless domestic rabbits are sent to market in a much more attractive condition than the wild rabbits, which always appear in large numbers in winter, and which look far from attractive. Any cook who is accustomed to prepare chicken or fowl will be able to cook rabbits, and can easily devise many excellent dishes, although the necessity of retaining the juices as far as possible must be borne in mind as already mentioned. Most of the recipes given apply to rabbits which are nearing maturity. Less cooking may be needed for those which are under five months or which are light in weight. It is always well to use plenty of fat pork or bacon in cooking rabbits, as they im- prove the flavor. As with poultry the meat should hang for at least twenty-four hours before it is eaten. Some people like to have the meat get much riper than that, but there is such a thing as letting it become too ripe. RABBITS FOR THE TABLE 131 If there is too much for the meals of a small family and they tire of eating rabbit so often it can be canned like any other meat and kept in jars until wanted. Rabbit en casserole(and in a variety of ways that will suggest them- selves to any woman who has had experience as a cook}is a change from the monotonous round of beef and lamb, beef and lamb, beef and lamb through the winter. On the Pacific coast rabbits are often used for making mince- meat, being prepared in the same way as beef. The following recipes have been gathered from many sources, but they by no means ex- haust the possibilities in the way of rabbit dishes: Rabbit Pie For rabbit pie make a rich pie crust, rolled thin for the bottom and sides of the dish and just patted out for the top. Line with a layer of thickened rabbit gravy, one of diced po- tatoes and one of meat. Alternate until the top crust is ready to put on. Top with a layer of chopped onions and tuck in the upper crust. Score to let the steam escape. Bake in a fairly 132 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING hot oven, and just before browning rub with melted butter, set on top shelf of oven and brown quickly. Creamed Rabbit Creamed rabbit is delicious, and left over pieces of meat can be utilized by making a thickened gravy of the liquid in which the rabbit was boiled and adding shredded wheat. Stale bread should be moistened and crisped in the oven and the creamed rabbit poured over the toast. Baked Rabbit en Casserole Lay alternate layers of rabbit and thin slices of bacon, season with thyme, sage, thinly sliced onions, and salt to taste. Fill the dish with water, bake in a slow oven for one and a half hours. A covered baking dish or pan may be used instead of a casserole, and the meat may be boned or not as desired. Rabbit Fricasee Brown some butter in a hot iron skillet. Then fry the hare, previously cut up, brown RABBITS FOR THE TABLE 133 on both sides. Next cover the meat with hot water and stew until it is thoroughly tender, seasoning it to taste. At the end of the stew- ing, let the meat again fry brown. Hasenpfeffer Cut each rabbit into eight pieces, the two legs, the two shoulders, and breast and back each cut in two pieces. Wash well, drain, then steep for a few hours in vinegar con- taining thyme, carrots and onions. When ready take the pieces, roll them in flour and. fry lightly in butter. Put them in a sautoir (saucepan) when fried. Now fry some pieces of salt pork, add them to the rabbit, with some flour, moisten with stock, simmer and skim. Then add some button onions, a little thyme, and enough of the vinegar they were steeped in to give a sharp flavor. Simmer till tender and serve. Sauté of Rabbit Use the legs and saddles of the rabbits. Soak them in warm water for an hour, then 134 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING drain and wipe each piece dry; season, then roll in flour, fry a light color in butter. Make the sauce in the same pan, boil and skim. Put back the rabbit, add some sliced mushrooms, simmer till tender, finish with the addition of a little sherry wine. Cutlets of Rabbits, Tomato Sauce Roll the legs in a mixture of salt, pepper and powdered poultry seasoning, then in flour, dip in beaten egg and fresh bread crumbs. Place in pan containing melted butter, put in slow oven for over half an hour, or till tender and brown; serve with tomato sauce. Rabbit Liver and Bacon Take two or three livers, cut in small pieces, roll in ‘flour, pepper and salt, drop in boiling fat from the bacon, and arrange on platter with thin, crisp slices of bacon and potato marbles. Garnish with parsley or watercress. Potted Rabbit This is a good way to use old rabbits. Cut the rabbit into small pieces, cook in as little RABBITS FORTHE TABLE 135 water as possible until meat falls from bone;, remove bones and strain. liquor. Chop or mash in a mortar all meat, adding a table- spoonful of butter and seasoning—a little cay- enne pepper makes a nice flavor—work into a paste, pack tight into jars, and seal tight. Chapter XIV. RABBIT FURS AND THEIR VALUE T would be foolish to undertake raising | rabbits of any kind simply for their pelts. If the value of these pelts were as great as some breeders would have us believe, rabbit keeping would be taken up by a host of people immediately. At the same time, rabbit fur has sufficient value to warrant saving the skins from animals which are used for table pur- poses except in the summer months, when they are in poor condition. As a by-product the pelts of rabbits may be handled profitably. While the war was on, prices of all furs became unusually high, and a larger demand for rabbit skins was created than had existed before, at least in this country. In ordinary times a vast number of rabbit skins are im- ported from Australia to be used by hat makers. That source of supply being cut off temporarily, manufacturers became interested 136 Sal], eIY LL Ur sayojnzy RABBIT FURS—THEIR VALUE 137 to some extent in local markets. At a recent fur sale in St. Louis, which is the center of the business in the United States, six million rabbit pelts were auctioned off, bringing a total of five hundred thousand dollars. The top price of the sale was $2.10 a pound, the best lot averaging seven pelts to the pound. Most of these rabbit skins came from Australia and New Zealand, only two per cent. having been received from American shippers. It will be seen by this that rabbit skins are in demand even though the price is low. For- merly all the big sales of Australia’s output have been held in London, but the business is being established on so firm a ground in this country that it probably can be retained here. That being true, the opportunity for Ameri- can breeders to find an outlet for whatever sur- plus they may have will be improved. At these auction sales the buyers are mostly fur- riers and hat manufacturers from the larger centers. When one has only a few rabbits, of course, he cannot expect to find a ready market for the pelts, as dealers always like to buy in large lots. Now, however, leading rabbit keepers 138 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING in various patts of the country are beginning to collect skins from smaller growers with whom they do business. Then when they have enough to make a good sized shipment, they consign it to a déaler or wholesale buyer. Of course an extra profit has to be made along the way when this plan is followed ; yet some- times as much as $1.50 can be obtained for the pelt of a large rabbit of good color say.a white or a black Flemish Giant. Another very good practice is growing up. Furriers with large plants are advertising to tan skins supplied by rabbit raisers and to make them up into ladies’ and children’s fur sets, men’s caps, gloves and so forth. This is an excellent way in which to obtain a set of furs cheaply. Twelve good sized skins will make a large cape, with a high storm collar, and a fair sized muff. The price for tanning the skins and making up this set, including a lining of Skinner satin is quoted as $12.00. A fur cap such as farmers delight to wear can be made from four skins at a cost of $4.00. The same price is charged for making up a pair of fur gloves with gauntlets and lining them with heavy fleece. These gloves have RABBIT FURS—THEIR VALUE 139° horsehide palms and require five skins to make. It is very probable that this branch of the industry will be extended. It will ap- peal especially to amateurs who taise only a few animals. Of course the skins will not be those of the best stock, for good breeders are worth much more than their meat and fut. Naturally rabbit skins will never have a value equal to that of the high class fur bear- ing animals. For a long time, though, they have brought much more than their original price when sold undér some such name as Electric Seal, Nearseal, or Coney. The whole skins are used for making up these cheap furs, but the hat makers use only the hair, which is cut off, then ground, and put through a process which produces the felt of masculine head gear. It is to this market that rabbit keepers in general should look for their profits in the long run. An almost unbeliev- able quantity of rabbit skins designed solely, for hat making have been brought from Aus- tralia in the past. The skins of rabbits raised in America are just exactly as good for the purpose. It is only a question of getting large enough lots to tempt the buyers. 140 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING On the Pacifc coast there are many women who engage in the keeping of rabbits either commercially or as a side line. Some of these women have learned how to cure and tan the hides, and are making up fur garments, either for their own use or to sell. It is not difficult to learn to do this work, and there is always a sale for the furs, even though the price is not high. The skins are easily cut to the right shape by being tacked to a flat board, the pat- tern then being marked out on them with a pencil. A sharp knife is used to make the cutting, being preferable to scissors. If the cutting is not made very deeply and the pieces are pulled apart, the hairs will not be cut, and will have a better appearance. For sewing the furs a baseball stitch or an over and over stitch is used, the seam being then pressed flat. The edges can be finished by running a piece of cloth around them, turning it over and fas- tening it firmly to a thin piece of cotton over the skin. Of course any kind of lining can be used. It seems as though this might prove a profitable industry for women, especially if furs continue to remain as popular as they are now. pe RABBIT FURS—THEIR VALUE 14r Doubtless more attention will be paid by women doing this work to the production of rabbits especially valuable for fur. That means those in solid colors, for when rabbit skins are dyed, they do not wear so well, per- haps because the dye rots them. Such breeds as the Himalayan, the English, the Black and the White Flemish, the New Zealand, the Blue Imperial, the Checkered Giant and the Silver can be used without being dyed. The so-called Siberian hare is considered espe- cially valuable when black furs are wanted because of the even color. Some black rabbits have patches of brown which reduce their value. If the skins are to be salable, they must be obtained when they are in the best condition. During a molt, of course, they are worthless, unless a market can be found for them at a glue factory. The skins are at their best in the winter, of course, say between October and March, and rabbits which are kept in out-of- door hutches are apt to develop a better qual- ity of fur than those which are housed in warmer quarters. Getting off the pelt is not a difficult matter 142 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING after one has had a little experience. Some- times they are removed “cased” and sometimes they are split down the middle so they can be taken off flat. Cased skins are preferred when they are to be sold to fur makers. To go about removing the skins, hang up the rabbit as soon as it has been killed, attaching cards to the heel tendons of the back feet. When dressing the animals for meat and considering the skins of but little value, the rabbit keeper usually makes a cut down the belly the whole length of the skin. When the pelt is to be removed whole, more careful work must be done. First cuts are made down the inside of the hind legs and to the base of the tail. This cut should extend across the vent and the tail itself should be slit. The skin is cut around the legs just above the toes, although sometimes when the feet are especially good the toes and nails are left on. Then with a good strong pull the skin can be rolled down over the body and pulled over the head wrong side out. Sometimes certain ligaments will hold the skin, but can be cut away with the knife. Of course it will be necessary to cut off the forefeet. Then whatever adhering flesh or fat may be seen RABBIT FURS—THEIR VALUE 143 should be removed with the knife. After a little practice this work can be done quickly and easily. The next step is to cure the skins, which is done by covering the flesh side carefully with salt and letting them stand for three or four days in order that all the moisture shall be dried out. It is best to keep them in a fairly cool place. Then the skins will be ready for tanning. This work is made easiest by using a commercial tanning preparation, such as may be advertised under the name of Easy- tan or something of the kind. The cost is little, and results are almost certain to be satisfac- tory. However it is quite possible to make one’s own tanning mixture. A formula which has been found to work well is made up as follows: | 5 gallons of water 4 pounds of common salt 2 ounces of fluid sulphuric acid. The salt is first dissolved in the water and then the acid added, care being taken not to inhale any of the fumes. As the acid will eat into metal, it is best to use a wooden or fibre tub or bucket. 144 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING It will be found advantageous to wash the skins thoroughly before they are put into the tanning mixture, using lukewarm water and a little soap, with perhaps some ammonia added. The skins will need to remain in the tanning fluid for from one to three weeks. When properly cured they should show white when stretched over the fingers. It is important to wring out all the moisture possible after tan- ning has been completed, and to dry the pelts in the open air, but in a shady place. Then they may be stretched with the hands or rubbed over the edge of a table or a board to. make them soft and pliable. They should not be absolutely dry for several days, this stretch- ing and working being undertaken in the meantime. A properly tanned skin should be both soft and white. If either condition is lacking, it indicates that it was not left in pickle long enough. Sometimes furs are greasy and never will be satisfactory unless cleaned, no matter how well they may be tanned. If cleaning is needed it can be done with gasoline or benzine. Occasionally it.is found advisable to work a little Neatsfoot oil into the skin after it is RABBIT FURS—THEIR VALUE 145 dried, to keep it soft. Sometimes yellow ochre is mixed with the Neatsfoot oil to impart a shade of tan to the skin. In France skins are turned inside out and carefully filled with hay or straw and then hung up in the sun or in a current of air to dry and cure. When arrangements have been made with a furrier or hat maker to take one’s pelts, it may not be necessary to tan them. If they are dried and then packed in a tight box containing moth balls or naphthaline until a considerable number have been obtained, they will keep in good condition. Chapter XV. WHEN RABBITS ARE OUT OF CONDITION HERE would be few ailments among rabbits if the animals were always kept in clean, sanitary quarters, free from dampness and not over crowded, and if they were not fed too heavily. In other words, nearly all of the troubles which develop among rabbits are due to improper care, or perhaps I should say, to lack of care. The two most common ailments are snuffles and slobbers. Slobbers.—Slobbers most commonly devel- ops among young animals, especially those which are in crowded hutches and which are overfed with green stuff. Undoubtedly it is the cause of greater mortality among young rabbits than anything else. Slobbers is par- ticularly likely to appear between the ages of four and six months or just as the youngsters 146 RABBITS OUT OF CONDITION 147 are weaned. Its presence is indicated by wet fur around the mouth, and matted fur under the chin. Usually, too, the front feet are found with matted hair where the animal has rubbed the drool from its mouth. Salt is commonly considered the best cure. Sometimes it is rubbed on the feet and into the mouth. A pinch of salt may be added to amash. Often a piece of rock salt placed in the hutch will be licked. The use of cooked food for a few days is recommended. Of course all green food should be withdrawn. One remedy recommended consists of a few drops of muriatic acid in the drinking water. There should be just enough to make the water taste slightly tart. Twenty drops of a mixture comprising spirits of nitre and spirits of ju- niper in equal parts is another remedy. It is to be given two or three times a day in a little water. Snuffles.—No other trouble which develops in a rabbitry is more common than snuffles, although exactly what is meant by this name is a question upon which rabbit keepers do not agree. Some consider it nothing more than a severe cold, while others. call it a pulmonary 148 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING and chronic disease. In any rabbitry where the animals are heard to be continually sneez- ing and are to be seen rubbing their noses with their paws, trouble of this kind is to be sus- pected. One should go slow in buying rabbits from such a place. There is a constant dis- charge of mucous which is carried to the feet and causes the hair to become badly matted and wet. The first step towards a cure is to keep the animals in the open air. Indeed, snuffles is not likely to develop where the ventilation is perfect, unless the hutches set on the ground or become damp from some other cause. The writer once had a large number of young ani- mals kept indoors afflicted with snuffles. Al- though it was winter, he fenced in a consider- able piece of ground outside, provided large boxes filled with straw for the animals to burrow in, and turned the rabbits loose in this enclosure. Within a few weeks, all of the trouble had disappeared, and the rabbits were as frisky and as happy as a rabbit well can be There is this to remember, that snuffles, while easily eradicated at the start, is very hard to get rid of after it becomes well established. RABBITS OUT OF CONDITION 149 The remedy most commonly recommended is tincture of aconite, to be given in drinking water or in milk. Three drops to a quart is about the right proportion. Bluestone sprink- led over the oats has been recommended, and often an antiseptic is used for cleaning the nostrils, something like Wick’s salve, which one rabbit judge endorses, being used in pre- ference to a solution of carbolic acid or any- thing of that kind. Hike antiseptic is also used for this purpose: An English breeder recommends dropping eucalyptus oil on the sawdust on the floor of the hutch. The paws as well as the nostrils should be kept clean. Sometimes a cold runs into pneumonia which is usually fatal. Ear Canker.—This is a somewhat common trouble, especially among the larger breeds and in commercial rabbitries. It is indicated by a scab on the inside of one or both ears. The scab is produced by a small insect which bores into the flesh. It is not a difficult trouble to contend with, and usually can be eradicated by using a few drops of some ear canker remedy, of which several kinds are on the market. It is well to remove the scabby sub- 150 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING stance with a somewhat pointed but blunt stick. Lukewarm water will aid in removing this incrustation. Waseline is also used. A soft sponge should then be used to wash out the ear. Boric acid is sometimes applied after the ear has been cleaned, and proves a suffi- cient remedy if repeated daily for some time. Pot Belly.—Over-feeding, and especially the feeding of green stuff, is the cause of pot belly, which often appears in young rabbits, especially those under three months old. The trouble is indicated by the distention of the stomach. Naturally the first step in relieving the rabbit is to stop giving green food. In- deed, it is wise to withhold all food for twenty- four hours. In a bad case a small dose of castor oil may be of benefit. An occasional drink of scalded milk may be given. Flowers of sulphur is considered a remedy, a pinch being put into the oats each day. If pot belly is allowed to continue it will kill the rabbits, but is not likely to develop at all if but little green food is given the youngsters. Paralysis.—It is hard to tell just what causes paralysis, and it is very difficult to deal with. In fact, no cure is known when the RABBITS OUT OF CONDITION 1s1 trouble is well established. It is best to kill any animals which develop paralysis, the trouble being indicated by a lack of ability to control the hind quarters, which are dragged around the hutch. Diarrhoea and Constipation.— While these ailments are not common, they sometimes oc- cur as a result of feeding too much green stuff after the rabbits have been confined to grain and hay, or from a total lack of such rations. They are easily dealt with. Naturally the amount of green stuff can be reduced when diarrhoea develops, and hot milk may be given. A condition of constipation can usually be. remedied by feeding more green stuff. Skin Troubles and Insects.—There will be little annoyance from these sources if the hut- ches are kept clean. Sometimes mange de- velops, and it occasionally happens that ver- min infest the coats. The initial step is to clean out all filth and to keep the hutches san- itary and well aired. If the sun can shine into them a part of each day, so much the better. Some kind of mange cure can be tried, and in summer a mixture of sulphur and lard may be applied. 152 PRACTICAL RABBIT KEEPING ~ Coccidiosis.— Probably much mortality among rabbits for which the owners can find no reason is due to this trouble, which is caused by parasites which are pretty certain to develop wherever there is an accumulation of filth which is not promptly removed. Perfect cleanliness i is a certain preventive. One objec- tion to the stacking of hutches in tiers is the increased danger that they will not be kept clean. Urine sometimes seeps through the floors into the hutch below. The reason that rabbits cannot be kept safely for more than a short time in an outdoor yard with an earth bottom is because of the trouble likely to be experienced by the presence of coccidia when the ground becomes foul. Tey 94} UO ps0ojey Jaquiny Jaq4s13ay APPENDIX RABBIT AND HARE SOCIETY OF CANADA HE rabbit keepers of Canada have an i organization which is somewhat differ- ent from the National Association in the United States. It is called the Rabbit and Hare Society of Canada. Its headquarters are at Hamilton, Ontario, and the Secretary and Treasurer, who is also the registrar, is J. E. Peart, of that city. Animals to be registered are not submitted for examination, but pedigrees in duplicate are sent to the registrar, where, if they are found to be honest and correct, one copy is filed for reference and the other returned to the owner. Sub-societies can be organized in any part of the Dominion, and can hold exhi- bitions and award prizes by obtaining permis- sion from the supreme society. The registration fees for Pedigrees are as follows: I pedigree, 25 cents. 153 154 APPENDIX 4 pedigrees, 50 cents. Each additional pedigree, ro cents. When a registered and pedigreed rabbit dies it is the duty of the owner of said dead rabbit to notify the registrar, giving the num- ber of ear tag, name, etc., that a record may be kept for future reference. Any member of the Rabbit or Hare Society of Canada by sending 10 cents in stamps or cash may ask for and receive a copy of any pedigree or other information from the head office. Any person, either in Canada or the United States, may by sending Five Dollars, and fur- nishing satisfactory evidence of honesty and fair dealing to the head office, become a mem- ber of the Rabbit and Hare Society of Canada, and be entitled to all the rights and privileges it affords. . It is provided that any member of the Rab- bit and Hare Society found guilty of misrep- resentation of pedigrees or any dishonest deal- ing in rabbits or hares, shall be expelled from said Society and all the members of the Society shall be notified of such expulsion. ‘APPENDIX 155 WEIGHTS OF RABBITS TO BE REGISTERED At its annual meeting in 1919, the National Breeders’ and Fanciers’ Association fixed the weights necessary for registration for the various breeds as follows: Belgian bucks under five and one-half pounds not eligible. Belgian does under six pounds not eligible. Flemish bucks under ten pounds not eligible. White and black bucks under nine pounds not eligible. Flemish does under eleven pounds not eligible. Black and white does under ten pounds not eligible. Gray bucks under eleven pounds not eligible. Gray does under twelve pounds not eligible. New Zealand bucks under seven pounds not eligible. New Zealand does under eight pounds not eligible. Checkered Giant bucks under ten pounds not eligible. Checkered does under eleven pounds not eligible. American blue bucks under eight pounds not eligible. American blue does under nine pounds not eligible. 156 ‘APPENDIX Angoras under six pounds not eligible. Dutch three pounds and over; five pounds and under. English, three pounds and over; seven pounds and under. Havanas, over three pounds not eligible. Himalayan, over two and a half, and under five. Imperials, over four and under seven. Polish, under four pounds. Silver grays, fawns or browns, four to six pounds. Tans, blacks or blues, three to four pounds. American blue giants, bucks eight pounds and over; does nine pounds and over. English Lops, bucks nine pounds; does ten pounds; ears over sixteen inches in length; ears over five inches in width. A rabbit to qualify for registration should be strong in at least two sections. The strong and weak points should be specified on the certificate of registration. LIST OF REGISTRARS The following is the list of the registrars in the various parts of the United States, as it existed when this book went to press. Rabbit breeders desiring to have their rabbits regis- tered can send them to the nearest member of APPENDIX 157 the board: Secretary C. H. Gibson, Detroit, Mich. C. P. Gilmore, Santa Barbara, Cal. Fred Rose, Grinnell, Iowa. Rev. George W. Fuller, Florida. Harry Carter, Tacoma, Washington. Harry Simon, Indianapolis, Ind. Louis Griffin, Colorado Springs, Colo. Reed Storms, Kansas City, Mo. F. C. Fairchild, Wichita, Kans. R, A. Baird, Oklahoma City, Okla. W. B. Campbell, Denver, Colo. Homer Sanderson, Eagle Rock, Cal. Wm, Yerkes, Houston, Texas. Percy Rowland, Newcastle, Pa. Jesse McCullough, North Louisburg, Ohio. H. L. Thomas, Waco, Texas. Boyd, Polk, Ohio. H. J. Plegge, St. Louis, Mo. Glen Barbour, Chelsea, Mich. John Fehr, Indianapolis, Ind. J. M. Gibson, West Alexander, Pa. Geo. Nugent, San! José, Cal. J. Needham, Seattle, Wash. L. L. Whitmore, Akron, Ohio. Oscar Hull, Tacoma, Wash. H.C. Brown, Emporia, Kans. A. E. Chapman, Topeka, Kans. C. C. Hawley, Dallas, Texas. F, A. Wilke, Boise, Idaho. 158 ‘APPENDIX Louis Salisbury, Pasadena, Cal. R. F. Foulke, Waynesboro, Pa. T. P. Thompson, Harrisburg, II. C. P. Denlea, Brooklyn, N. Y. Edward Condon, Chicago, Il. George Eckert, Chicago, III. A. G. Prather, Ukiah, Cal. C, R. Pinneo, Omaha, Neb. Frank Harris, Des Moines, Iowa. W. H. Ashton, Dayton, Ohio. F. C. Fidler, Syracuse. Geo. E. Hilton, Oakland, Cal. Andrew Wilson, Los Angeles, Cal. R. E. Cushman, Sterling, Ill. Ignatz Gruber, Fort Wayne, Ind. G. W. Abbott, Newtonville, Mass. A. M. Lewis, Terre Haute, Ind. Ernest Haarer, Ann Arbor, Mich. C. E. Church, Charlotte, Mich. Farley, Birmingham, Ala. Ernest Gernslager, Murphysboro, IIl. Saylor, Cedar Rapids, Iowa. Stegena, Grand Rapids, Mich. H. M. Adolph, Cleveland, Ohio, Chairman. GRIEVANCE COMMITTEE The grievance committee of the National Breeders’ and Fanciers’ Association was estab- APPENDIX 159 lished to obviate unfair dealings, particularly between buyers and sellers. The chairman is H. N. Adolph, of 4231 Mapledale Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio. The other members of the committee are George W. Abbott, Newton- ville, Massachusetts; R. C. Cushman, Sterl- ing, Illinois; J. D. Lane, 2839 Terrace Ave- nue, Kansas City, Kansas; George W. Hilton, 3615 Penniman Avenue, Oakland, California. ‘All complaints should be made to the nearest member of the committee. In all mail trans- actions, it is wise to save the envelopes which help to obtain redress and enlist the assistance of the federal authorities. Any member of the National Association can take advantage of the opportunity offered by the grievance com- mittee. BREEDING RECORDS It is necessary to keep careful records when breeding rabbits. Below is a sample record. It can be obtained printed on cardboard, size 3x6, at the rate of one cent each, from supply . houses. 160 APPENDIX BREEDING RECORD NO. NAME STRAIN Dat No. of | No. of No. SERVED BY sowed | Tents | pa | Young | WSiter | weanea WHAT LOP EAR IS Amateur rabbit keepers are often puzzled by a condition known as lop ear in which one and sometimes both ears of the rabbit hang down to one side and seem beyond the rabbit’s control. It is usually caused by hot weather or by very close confinement. It is, of course, a disqualification and bars the animal from the show room. Naturally this does not apply to the lop-eared breeds. DEWLAP The dewlap is a peculiar growth which may appear under the chin of Belgian hares, Flem- ish Giants and New Zealand Reds. Breeders APPENDIX 161 are trying to eliminate it and it occasions a cut in the score when rabbits are being exhibited. The presence of a dewlap, however, does not disqualify the rabbit for entrance unless it is unusually large. In breeding to get rid of the dewlap, bucks free from dewlap should be used. The dewlap itself is a development of glands and is accentuated in does by frequent breeding. MARKING RABBITS The only possible way to keep track of pedi- greed rabbits when they are being bred on anything but a very small scale is to mark or tag each individual. There are two ways of doing this. One is to punch the ear and insert a metal tag carrying a number and kept from slipping out by means of a washer. The other way is to tattoo a number on the inside of the ear. This is done with a special instrument obtained from the supply houses and indelible ink. Each plan has its supporters. Of course it is necessary to tag or mark the rabbits when they are very young, or there is danger that they will become mixed with other animals 162 APPENDIX and their identification will be impossible. RABBIT KEEPING LITERATURE With the greatly increased interest in rabbit keeping which has developed in the past few years has come a corresponding increase in rabbit literature. There are several periodi- cals devoted to rabbits and other small stock. The list includes the following: Rabbit Craft and Small Stock Journal, American Breeders’ Review, 132 Nassau Street, New York City; 50 cents a year. The National Breeders’ and Fanciers’ Mag- azine, 335 Southeast Avenue, Oak Park, Illi- nois, monthly, subscription, $1.00 a year. Rabbit Craft and Small Stock Journal, Lamoni, Iowa, monthly, subscription, 50 cents. Outdoor Enterprises and Domestic Pets, 408 Admiral Boulevarde, Kansas City, Mis- souri, monthly, subscription, $1.00. American Breeders’ Review, 132 Nassau Street, New York City; 50 cents a year. Hares and Rabbits, Greenfield, Indiana, monthly, subscription, $1.00. APPENDIX 163 There are few books among those published. . in America devoted wholly to rabbits except those issued by breeders. The books most commonly quoted are the following: “Breeding and Care of Rabbits,” by Charles: S. Gibson, published by Charles S. Gibson, 1045 West Warren Avenue, Detroit, Mich- igan. “Rabbit and Cavy Culture,” by W. F. Roth and Charles T. Cornman, published by Item Publishing Company, Sellersville, Pennsyl- vania. “Rabbit Breeders’ Ready Reference,” O. K.. Poultry Journal Co., Mounds, Oklahoma. Other books are: “Commercial Rabbit Farming,” published by Outdoor Enterprise: Company, Kansas City, Missouri; “Richey’s Western Rabbit and Cavy Book,” published. by the Monrovia Publishing Company, Mon- rovia, California; “Raising Rabbits Right,” published by the Pet Stock World, Baltimore, Maryland. ‘A brief but excellent bulletin, entitled “Raising Belgian Hares and Other Rabbits” is issued by the United States De- partment of agriculture at Washington, from which it may be obtained without charge by 164. APPENDIX writing for Farmer’s Bulletin Number 496. THE STANDARDS OF PERFECTION There is only one way to establish uniform- ity in any breed of animals, and that is for those who breed them to unite upon certain characteristics and color markings as the ideal to strive for. If this plan were not followed, all breeders would be working along different lines and nothing could be accomplished. “There are organizations to foster the breeding of all the leading breeds of rabbits. These organizations are responsible largely for the ideals which are determined upon, and which ‘constitute what are called the standards of per- fection. It is to be understood, of course, that ‘a rabbit which is one hundred per cent perfect is not to be found in any breed. The ideal is always kept a little ahead of what has been ‘achieved ; but with the standard to guide them ‘a remarkable uniformity is obtained by expert ‘breeders. As fast as new breeds are created and become popular, a standard is fixed for them. In each case the standard goes specifi- cally into details covering weight, color mark- ‘ings, general conformation, and the like. By APPENDIX 165 studying them, the amateur will be able to judge the quality of the animals which he owns, and to shape his plans in an effort to improve his stock. The revised standard of perfection has not been completed as this book. goes to press but can be obtained as soon as published from the Secretary of the National ‘Association, Charles §. Gibson, 105 W. (Warren Avenue, Detroit, Michigan. INDEX A Advertising, 50, 115 Ailments, how to treat, 146 American Spotted Giants, 14, 29 Angoras, 15, 37 Argent de Champagne, 11 B ‘Belgian clares, 1, 9, 12, 42, 47 color of, 25 shape of, 26 Black Siberian Hares, 28 ‘Blue Imperial Rabbits, eolor of, 40 Bread and milk for does, 91 ‘Breeding, age for, 98 best seasons for, 99 fancy stock, 116 how to induce, 100 methods outlined, 101 records, 159 stock, age of, 100 ‘Breeds, American Spotted Giants, 14 Angoras, 15, 37 Argent de Champagne, 11 Blue Imperials, 40 Dutch, 14, 31, 42 ‘English, 13, 30 166 Flemish Giants, 13, 17 Giants, 27, 49 Himalayans, 13, 33, 43 Lop-eared, 10, 15, 32 New Zealand Reds, 15, 17, 34, 42, 47 Polish, 35 Silver Blues, 39 Silver Browns, 39 Silver Fawns, 39 Silver Grays, 38 Tans, 40 Cc Cabbages, value of, 82 California, Rabbits in, 5, 18 Canada; Rabbit and Hare So- ciety of, 153 Canning rabbit meat, 131 Carrots, food value of, 83 Children, rabbits for, 41 Common rabbits, 41 Cooking fabbits, 130 Cost of raising rabbits, 3 D Demand for rabbits, 4 Dewlap, nature of, 160 Dogs, danger from, 76 Dressing rabbits, 128 Dutch rabbits, 14, 31, 42 INDEX E English rabbits, 13, 30 Europe, rabbits in, 11 Exhibiting, pleasures of, 115 Exhibitions, 24 preparing for, 116 F Fancy rabbits, 6, 10, 12 breeding, 116 Farms, rabbit, 23 Feeding green stuff, 81 pregnant does, 91, 94 young rabbits, 44, 81, 92 Fighting, how to prevent, 78 Flemish Giants, 13, 17 : Foundation stock, importance of, 116 Fur, 11 making garments from, 140 sources of, 136 uses of, 138 value of, 137 G Giant rabbits, 26 American Spotted,29 Black Flemish, 28 Black Siberian, 28 crosses of, 49, 98 Gray Flemish, 27 Steel Gray Flemish, 27 White, 28 Grain, amount required, 93 variety in, 90 1167 Grievance Committee, 158 H Hares, 9, 25 Hay, amount required, 93 character of, 91 Healthy rabbits, how to know, 52 Himalayan rabbits, 13, 33, 44 History of the breeds, 9 Hutches, character of, 55 for young stock, 72 indoor, 58 movable, 59 nest boxes in, 63 outdoor, 59, 66 self-cleaning, 60 size of, 56 I In-breeding, meaning of, 106 result of, 108 K Kale, curly Scotch, 87 L Lifting rabbits, manner of, 77 Line-breeding, manner of, 107 Literature of rabbit keeping, 162 Litters, number of per year, 96 size of, 104 Lop ear, cause of, 162 Lop-eared rabbits, 10 English, 32 French, 15 168. M Marking, methods of, 161 Meat rabbits, 2, 22 age of, 127 demand for, 126 , how to dress, 128 how to market, 129 Morant system, the, 69 N National Breeders’ and Fan- ciers’ Association, 155 Nest boxes, 63, 102 New Zealand Red Rabbits,15, 17, 34, 42, 47 color of, 35 New Zealand spinach for fall feeding, 88 Oo Over-feeding, danger of, 94 P Parsnips, food value of, 84 Pedigrees, how made, 122 Pelts, how to cure, 143 how to remove, 141 Pet rabbits, 7, 41 Polish rabbits, 35 grooming for 117 Potatoes, food value of, 88 Pot belly, cause of, 92 how to prevent, 150 Prices for average stock, 48 Purchasing stock, 51 by mail, 52 rales for, 123 exhibition, INDEX R Rape for spring feeding, 87 Recipes, 131 Registering, cost of, 121 value of, 120 Registrars, list of, 156 Registration, rates for, 153 Ss, Salt. amount of, 94 Sanitation, how to secure, 75 need of, 75 Sex, how to determine, 53 Shipping, boxes for, 118 Silver Blues, 39 Silver Browns, 39 Silver Fawns, 39 Silver Grays, 38 Standards, 164 Stud book, necessity for, 106 Sunlight, protection from, 76 T Table scraps, value of, 92 Tans, Black and, 40 Vv Vegetables, how to feed, 88 raising, 83 storing, 85 Ww Water needed daily, 94 receptacles for, 94 Witloof chicory, how to force, 85 Y Yards, dog-proof 68 with floors, 71