New York State College of A griculture At Cornell University Ithaca, N.Y. Library Cornell University Library Home vegetable gardening; a complete and HOME VEGETABLE GARDENING In the well managed home garden an ample supply of vegetables may “] be grown not only cheaper but infinitely better than can be bought. Nor need the “garden patch” be unsightly HOME VEGETABLE GARDENING A COMPLETE AND PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE PLANTING AND CARE OF ALL VEGETABLES, FRUITS AND BERRIES WORTH GROWING FOR HOME USE BY F. F. ROCKWELL | NEW YORK ROBERT M. McBRIDE & COMPANY 1917 COPYRIGHT, 1911, BY McBRIDE, WINSTON & COMPANY First Epvrtion Posusxep Apait, 1911 PREFACE ITH some, the home vegetable garden is a hobby; with others, especially in these days of high prices, a great help. There are many in both classes whose experience in gardening has been restricted within very narrow bounds, and whose present spare time for gardening is limited. It is as “first aid’? to such persons, who want to do practical, efficient gardening, and do it with the least possible fuss and loss of time, that this book is written. In his own experience the author has found that garden books, while seldom lacking in information, often do not present it in the clearest possible way. It has been his aim to make the present vol- ume first of all practical, and in addition to that, though comprehensive, yet simple and concise. If it helps to make the way of the home gardener more clear and definite, its purpose will have been accomplished. CHAPTER I II III IV Vv VI VII VII IX XI XII XIII XIV XV XVI XVII XVIII XIX XX CONTENTS PAGE INTRODUCTION) 9. cs0 Soe c08 2s bebe ene ware I WHY YOU SHOULD GARDEN............ 6 REQUISITES OF THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN ........... sede aww ee sie iss 9 THE PLANTING PLAN ..........0.00. .. 16 IMPLEMENTS AND THEIR USES......... 30 MANURES AND FERTILIZERS ..... sKieseeree 142 THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION....... 61 Part Two—VEGETABLES STARTING THE PLANTS........ eieratearexeun 2 SOWING AND PLANTING......... Saintes, 1.O2) THE CULTIVATION OF VEGETABLES...... IOI THE VEGETABLES AND THEIR SPECIAL NEEDS words ba aca ae ee a ee ees 108 BEST VARIETIES OF THE GARDEN VEGE- TA BURG ed. oc ehc me euerad wel eS . 141 INSECTS AND DISEASE, AND METHODS OF FIGHTING THEM ........... ines 8 HARVESTING AND STORING ...eeevevees 173 Part THREE—FRUITS THE VARIETIES OF POME AND STONE FRUITS se sstan se aaneletions tetra eat ts 184 PLANTING; CULTIVATION; FILLER CROPS 206 PRUNING, SPRAYING, HARVESTING ..... 210 BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS.......... 226 A CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS .......-- 249 CONCLUSION ssséen caren ne wee Heww eave 260 Cuapter I INTRODUCTION to invest their labors and achievements _ with a mystery and secrecy which might well have discouraged any amateur from tres- passing upon such difficult ground. “Trade secrets” in either flower or vegetable growing were acquired by the apprentice only through practice and observation, and in turn jealously guarded by him until passed on to some younger brother in the profession. Every garden operation was made to seem a wonderful and difficult undertaking. Now, all that has changed. In fact the pendulum has swung, as it usually does, to the other extreme. Often, if you are a beginner, you have been flatter- ingly told in print that you could from the beginning do just as well as the experienced gardener. My garden friend, it cannot, as a usual thing, be done. Of course, it may happen and sometimes does. You might, being a trusting lamb, go down into Wall Street with $10,000 and make a fortune. (1) Pee eves it was the custom for gardeners 2 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING You know that you would not be likely to; the chances are very much against you. This garden business is a matter of common sense; and the man, or the woman, who has learned by experience how to do a thing, whether it is cornering the market or growing cabbages, naturally does it better than the one who has not. Do not expect the impossible. If you do, read a poultry advertisement and go into the hen business instead of trying to garden. I have grown pumpkins that necessitated the tearing down of the fence in order to get them out of the lot, and sometimes, though not frequently, have had to use the axe to cut through a stalk of asparagus, but I never “made $17,000 in ten months from an egg- plant in a city back-yard.”’ No, if you are going to take up gardening, you will have to work, and you will have a great many disappointments. All that I, or anyone else, could put between the two covers of a book will not make a gardener of you. It must be learned through the fingers, and back, too, as well as from the printed page. But, after all, the greatest reward for your efforts will be the work itself; and unless you love the work, or have a feeling that you will love it, probably the best way for you, is to stick to the grocer for your garden. Most things, in the course of development, change from the simple to the complex. The art of gardening has in many ways been an exception INTRODUCTION % to the rule. The methods of culture used for many crops are more simple than those in vogue a gen- eration ago. The last fifty years has seen also a tre- mendous advance in the varieties of vegetables, and the strange thing is that in many instances the new and better sorts are more easily and quickly grown than those they have replaced. The new lima beans are an instance of what is meant. While limas have always been appreciated as one of the most delicious of vegetables, in many sections they could never be succesfully grown, because of their aversion to dampness and cold, and of the long sea- son required to mature them. The newer sorts are not only larger and better, but hardier and earlier; and the bush forms have made them still more gen- erally available. Knowledge on the subject of gardening is also more widely diffused than ever before, and the science of photography has helped wonderfully in telling the newcomer how to do things. It has also lent an impetus and furnished an inspiration which words alone could never have done. If one were to attempt to read all the gardening instructions and suggestions being published, he would have no time left to practice gardening at all. Why then, the reader may ask at this point, another garden book? It is a pertinent question, and it is right that an answer be expected in advance. The 4 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING reason, then, is this: while there are garden books in plenty, most of them pay more attention to the “content” than to the form in which it is laid before the prospective gardener. The material is often presented as an accumulation of detail, instead of by a systematic and constructive plan which will take the reader step by step through the work to be done, and make clear constantly both the principles and the practice of garden making and management, and at the same time avoid every digression un- necessary from the practical point of view. Other books again, are either so elementary as to be of little use where gardening is done without gloves, or too elaborate, however accurate and worthy in other respects, for an every-day working manual. “The author feels, therefore, that there is a distinct field for the present book. And, while I still have the reader by the “‘intro- duction” buttonhole, I want to make a suggestion or two about using a book like this. Do not, on the one hand, read it through and then put it away with the dictionary and the family Bible, and trust to memory for the instruction it may give; do not, on the other hand, wait until you think it is time to plant a thing, and then go and look it up. For in- stance, do not, about the middle of May, begin in- vestigating how many onion seeds to put in a hill; you will find out that they should have been put in, INTRODUCTION 5 in drills, six weeks before. Read the whole book through carefully at your first opportunity, make a list of the things you should do for your own vegetable garden, and put opposite them the proper dates for your own vicinity. Keep this available, as a working guide, and refer to special matters as you get to them. Do not feel discouraged that you cannot be prom- ised immediate success at the start. I know from personal experience and from the experience of others that “book-gardening” is a practical thing. If you do your work carefully and thoroughly, you may be confident that a very great measure of success will reward the efforts of your first garden season. And I know too, that you will find it the most entrancing game you ever played. Good luck to you! CHAPTER II WHY YOU SHOULD GARDEN HERE are more reasons to-day than ever be- fore why the owner of a small place should have his, or her, own vegetable garden. The days of home weaving, home cheese-making, home meat-packing, are gone. With a thousand and one other things that used to be made or done at home, they have left the fireside and followed the factory chimney. These things could be turned over to machinery. The growing of vegetables cannot be so disposed of. Garden tools have been improved, but they are still the same old one-man affairs— doing one thing, one row at a time. Labor is still the big factor—and that, taken in combination with the cost of transporting and handling such perishable stuff as garden produce, explains why the home gardener can grow his own vegetables at less expense than he can buy them. That is a good fact to remember. But after all, I doubt if most of us will look at the matter only after consulting the columns of the (6) Wuy You SHouLD GARDEN 7 household ledger. The big thing, the salient fea- ture of home gardening is not that we may get our vegetables ten per cent. cheaper, but that we can have them one hundred per cent. better. Even the long- keeping sorts, like squash, potatoes and onions, are very perceptibly more delicious right from the home garden, fresh from the vines or the ground; but when it comes to peas, and corn, and lettuce,—well, there is absolutely nothing to compare with the home garden ones, gathered fresh, in the early slanting sunlight, still gemmed with dew, still crisp and ten- der and juicy, ready to carry every atom of savory quality, without loss, to the dining table. Stale, flat and unprofitable indeed, after these have once been tasted, seem the limp, travel-weary, dusty things that are jounced around to us in the butcher’s cart and the grocery wagon. It is not in price alone that home gardening pays. There is another point: the market gardener has to grow the things that give the biggest yield. He has to sacrifice quality to quantity. Youdo not. One cannot buy Golden Ban- tam corn, or Mignonette lettuce, or Gradus peas in most markets. They are top quality, but they do not fill the market crate enough times to the row to pay the commercial grower. If you cannot afford to keep a professional gardener there is only one way to have the best vegetables—grow your own! And this brings us to the third, and what may be 8 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING the most important reason why you should garden. It is the cheapest, healthiest, keenest pleasure there is. Give me a sunny garden patch in the golden springtime, when the trees are picking out their new gowns, in all the various self-colored delicate grays and greens—strange how beautiful they are, in the same old unchanging styles, isn’t it?—give me seeds to watch as they find the light, plants to tend as they take hold in the fine, loose, rich soil, and you may have the other sports: And when you have grown tired of their monotony, come back in summer to even the smallest garden, and you will find in it, every day, a new problem to be solved, a new cam- paign to be carried out, a new victory to win. Better food, better health, better living—all these the home garden offers you in abundance. And the price is only the price of every worth-while thing— honest, cheerful patient work. But enough for now of the dream garden. Put down your book. Put on your old togs, light your pipe—some kind-hearted humanitarian should de- vise for women such a kindly and comforting vice as smoking—and let’s go outdoors and look the place over, and pick out the best spot for that gar- den-patch of yours. Cuapter III REQUISITES OF THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN N deciding upon the site for the home vegetable garden it is well to dispose once and for all of the old idea that the garden “patch” must be an ugly spot in the home surroundings. If thought- fully planned, carefully planted and thoroughly cared for, it may be made a beautiful and harmo- nious feature of the general scheme, lending a touch of comfortable homeliness that no shrubs, borders, or beds can ever produce. With this fact in mind we will not feel restricted to any part of the premises merely because it is out of sight behind the barn or garage. In the average moderate-sized place there will not be much choice as to land. It will be necessary to take what is to be had and then do the very best that can be done with it. But there will probably be a good deal of choice as to, first, exposure, and second, convenience. Other things being equal, select a spot near at hand, easy of access. It may seem that a difference of only a few hundred yards will mean nothing, but if (9) Io HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING one is depending largely upon spare moments for working in and for watching the garden—and in the growing of many vegetables the latter is almost as important as the former—this matter of conven- ient access will be of much greater importance than is likely to be at first recognized. Not until you have had to make a dozen time-wasting trips for forgotten seeds or tools, or gotten your feet soaking wet by going out through the dew-drenched grass, will you realize fully what this may mean. EXPOSURE But the thing of first importance to consider in picking out the spot that is to yield you happiness and delicious vegetables all summer, or even for many years, is the exposure. Pick out the “earliest” spot you can find—a plot sloping a little to the south or east, that seems to catch sunshine early and hold it late, and that seems to be out of the direct path of the chilling north and northeast winds. If a build- ing, or even an old fence, protects it from this direc- tion, your garden will be helped along wonderfully, for an early start is a great big factor toward suc- cess. If it is not already protected, a board fence, or a hedge of some low-growing shrubs or young evergreens, will add very greatly to its usefulness. The importance of having such a protection or shel- ter is altogether underestimated by the amateur. REQUISITES II THE SOIL The chances are that you will not find a spot of ideal garden soil ready for use anywhere upon your place. But all except the very worst of soils can be brought up to a very high degree of productiveness —especially such small areas as home vegetable gar- dens require. Large tracts of soil that are almost pure sand, and others so heavy and mucky that for centuries they lay uncultivated, have frequently been brought, in the course of only a few years, to where they yield annually tremendous crops on a commer- cial basis. So do not be discouraged about your soil, Proper treatment of it is much more import- ant, and a garden-patch of average run-down,—or “never-brought-up”’ soil—will produce much more for the energetic and careful gardener than the rich- est spot will grow under average methods of culti- vation. The ideal garden soil is a “rich, sandy loam.” And the fact cannot be overemphasized that such soils usually are made, not found. Let us analyze that de- scription a bit, for right here we come to the first of the four all-important factors of gardening—food. The others are cultivation, moisture and tempera- ture. “Rich” in the gardener’s vocabulary means full of plant food; more than that—and this is a point of vital importance—it means full of plant food ready to be used at once, all prepared and spread 12 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING out on the garden table, or rather in it, where grow- ing things can at once make use of it; or what we term, in one word, “available” plant food. Practi- cally no soils in long-inhabited communities remain naturally rich enough to produce big crops. They are made rich, or kept rich, in two ways; first, by cultivation, which helps to change the raw plant food stored in the soil into available forms; and sec- ond, by manuring or adding plant food to the soil from outside sources. “Sandy” in the sense here used, means a soil con- taining enough particles of sand so that water will pass through it without leaving it pasty and sticky a few days after a rain; “light” enough, as it is called, so that a handful, under ordinary conditions, will crumble and fall apart readily after being pressed in the hand. It is not necessary that the soil be sandy in appearance, but it should be friable. “Loam: a rich, friable soil,” says Webster. That hardly covers it, but it does describe it. It is soil in which the sand and clay are in proper proportions, so that neither greatly predominate, and usually dark in color, from cultivation and enrichment. Such a soil, even to the untrained eye, just naturally looks as if it would grow things. It is remarkable how quickly the whole physical appearance of a piece of well cultivated ground will change. An instance came under my notice last fall in one of my fields, REQUISITES 13 where a strip containing an acre had been two years in onions, and a little piece jutting off from the mid- dle of this had been prepared for them just one sea- son. The rest had not received any extra manuring or cultivation. When the field was plowed up in the fall, all three sections were as distinctly noticeable as though separated by a fence. And I know that next spring’s crop of rye, before it is plowed under, will show the lines of demarcation just as plainly. This, then, will give you an idea of a good garden soil. Perhaps in yours there will be too much sand, or too much clay. That will be a disadvantage, but one which energy and perseverance will soon over- come to a great extent—by what methods may be learned in Chapter VIII. , DRAINAGE There is, however, one other thing you must look out for in selecting your garden site, and that is drainage. Dig down eight or twelve inches after - you have picked out a favorable spot, and examine the sub-soil. This is the second strata, usually of different texture and color from the rich surface soil, and harder than it. If you find a sandy or grav- elly bed, no matter how yellow and poor it looks, you have chosen the right spot. But if it be a stiff, heavy clay, especially a blue clay, you will have either to drain it or be content with a very late garden—that 14 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING is, unless you are at the top of a knoll or on a slope. Chapter VII contains further suggestions in regard to this problem. SOIL ANTECEDENTS There was a further reason for mentioning that strip of onion ground. It is a very practical illus- tration of what last year’s handling of the soil means to this year’s garden. If you can pick out a spot, even if it is not the most desirable in other ways, that has been well enriched or cultivated for a year or two previous, take that for this year’s garden. And in the meantime have the spot on which you intend to make your permanent vegetable garden thor- oughly “fitted,” and grow there this year a crop of potatoes or sweet corn, as suggested in Chapter IX. Then next year you will have conditions just right to give your vegetables a great start. OTHER CONSIDERATIONS There are other things of minor importance but worth considering, such as the shape of your garden plot, for instance. The more nearly rectangular, the more convenient it will be to work and the more easily kept clean and neat. Have it large enough, or at least open on two ends, so that a horse can be used in plowing and harrowing. And if by any means you can have it within reach of an adequate supply of water, that will be a tremendous help in REQUISITES 15 seasons of protracted drought. Then again, if you have ground enough, lay off two plots so that you can take advantage of the practice of rotation, al- ternating grass, potatoes or corn with the vegetable garden. Of course it is possible to practice crop rotation (see page 106) to some extent within the limits of even the small vegetable garden, but it will be much better, if possible, to rotate the entire gar- den-patch. All these things, then, one has to keep in mind in picking the spot best suited for the home vege- table garden. It should be, if possible, of conven- ient access; it should have a warm exposure and be well enriched, well worked-up soil, not too light nor too heavy, and by all means well drained. If it has been thoroughly cultivated for a year or two pre- vious, so much the better. If it is near a supply of water, so situated that it can be at least plowed and harrowed with a horse, and large enough to allow the garden proper to be shifted every other year or two, still more the better. Fill all of these requirements that you can, and then by taking full advantage of the advantages you have, you can discount the disadvantages. After all it is careful, persistent work, more than natural ad- vantages, that will tell the story; and a good garden does not grow—it is made. CHAPTER IV. THE PLANTING PLAN AVING selected the garden spot, the next consideration, naturally, is what shall be planted in it. The old way was to get a few seed catalogues, pick out a list of the vegetables most enthusias- tically described by the (wholly disinterested) seeds- man, and then, when the time came, to put them in at one or two plantings, and sowing each kind as far as the seed would go. There is a better way—a way to make the garden produce more, to yield things when you want them, and in the proper pro- portions. All these advantages, you may suppose, must mean more work. On the contrary, however, the new way makes very much less work and makes results a hun- dred per cent. more certain. It is not necessary even that more thought be put upon the garden, but fore- thought there must be. Forethought, however, is much more satisfactory than hind-thought. In the new way of gardening there are four great (16) PLAN 17 helps, four things that will be of great assistance to the experienced gardener, and that are indispensable to the success of the beginner. They are the Plant- ing Plan, the Planting Table, the Check List and the Garden Record. Do not become discouraged at the formidable sound of that paragraph and decide that after all you do not want to fuss so much over your garden; that you are doing it for the fun of the thing any- way, and such intricate systems will not be worth bothering with. The purpose of those four garden helps is simply to make your work less and your re- turns more. You might just as well refuse to use a wheel hoe because the trowel was good enough for your grandmother’s garden, as to refuse to take ad- vantage of the modern garden methods described in this chapter. Without using them to some extent, or in some modified form, you can never know just what you are doing with your garden or what im- provements to make next year. Of course, each of the plans or lists suggested here is only one of many possible combinations. You should be able to find, or better still to construct, similar ones better suited to your individual taste, need and opportunity. That, however, does not lessen the necessity of using some such system. It is just as necessary an aid to the maximum efficiency in gardening as are modern tools. Do not fear that you will waste time on the 2 18 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING planting plan. Master it and use it, for only so can you make your garden time count for most in pro- ducing results. In the average small garden there is a very large percentage of waste—for two weeks, more string beans than can be eaten or given away; and then, for a month, none at all, for instance. You should determine ahead as nearly as possible how much of each vegetable your table will require and then try to grow enough of each for a continuous supply, and no more. It is just this that the planting plan enables you to do. I shall describe, as briefly as possible, forms of the planting plan, planting table, check list and rec- ord, which I have found it convenient to use. To make the Planting Plan take a sheet of white paper and a ruler and mark off a space the shape of your garden—which should be rectangular if pos- sible—using a scale of one-quarter or one-eighth inch to the foot. Rows fifty feet long will be found a convenient length for the average home garden. In a garden where many varieties of things are grown it will be best to run the rows the short way of the piece. We will take a fifty-foot row for the purpose of illustration, though of course it can read- ily be changed in proportion where rows of that length can not conveniently be made. In a very small garden it will be better to make the row, say, twenty-five feet long, the aim being always to keep éMap [eysAto : YUM Surypyseds ‘Surusow ay} ul ysasy pasayyes ‘asay} yl] Sajqeyadaa nq no ued soy A J[asinok YIOM ay} Sulop pure s[viajeul ay} SurAnq Aq jsod MOT L Je YING aq UPD au0 A[lloyoejsizes MOY Bulstidins st jf] ‘asnoyuseis & aAcYy Plnoys sde[d ArjUNOD jsaTjeuls oY} Usaq = OS PLAN 19 the row a unit and have as few broken ones as pos- sible, and still not to have to plant more of any one thing than will be needed. In assigning space for the various vegetables sev- eral things should be kept in mind in order to facili- tate planting, replanting and cultivating the garden. These can most quickly be realized by a glance at the plan illustrated herewith. You will notice that crops that remain several years—rhubarb and as- paragus—are kept at one end. Next come such as will remain a whole season—parsnips, carrots, onions and the like. And finally those that will be used for a succession of crops—peas, lettuce, spinach. Moreover, tall-growing crops, like pole beans, are kept to the north of lower ones. In the plan illus- trated the space given to each variety is allotted ac- cording to the proportion in which they are ordina- rily used. If it happens that you have a special weak- ness for peas, or your mother-in-law an aversion to peppers, keep these tastes and similar ones in mind when laying out your planting plan. Do not leave the planning of your garden until you are ready to put the seeds in the ground and then do it allina rush. Do it in January, as soon as you have received the new year’s catalogues and when you have time to study over them and look up your record of the previous year. Every hour spent on the plan will mean several hours saved in the garden. 20 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING RHUBARD -2 ASPARAGUS-2 SEED-BED POLE BEANS-Z TOMATOES-1 CABBAGE FARR} LI el PEPPERS-1 ‘PLANT-1 ELERY-1 OMNIONS- LEEKS - CARROTS-4 BEETS-4 PEAD-3 BUSH BDEANS-S LETTUCE-2 MUSKMELONS-GHius | CUCUMBERS - THis PUMPKINS-4H. WATERMELONS- 5H. WINTER SQUASH-5H. SQUASHLVINE~ A typical Planting Plan. The scale measurements at the left and top indi- cate the length and distance apart of rows. The Planting Table is thenext important sys- tem in the busi- ness of garden- ing, especially for the begin- ner. In it one can see at a glance all the details of the particular treat- ment each vege- table requires— when to sow, how deep, how far apart the rows should be, etc. I remember how many trips from garden to house to hunt through cata- logues for just such informa- tion I made in my first two seasons’ gar- PLAN 21 dening. How much time, just at the very busiest season of the whole year, such a table would have saved! The Planting Table prepared for one’s own use should show, besides the information given, the varieties of each vegetable which experience has proved best adapted to one’s own needs. The table shown herewith gives such a list ; varieties which are for the most part standard favorites and all of which, with me, have proven reliable, productive and of good quality. Other good sorts will be found de- scribed in Part Two, pages 141 to 157. Such a table should be mounted on cardboard and kept where it _™ay readily be referred to at planting time. The Check List is the counterpart of the planting table, so arranged that its use will prevent anything from being overlooked or left until too late. Prepare it ahead, some time in January, when you have time to think of everything. Make it up from your planting table and from the previous year’s record. From this list (see page 23) it will be well to put down ona sheet of paper the things to be done each month (or week) and cross them off as they are at- tended to. Without some such system it is almost a certainty that you will overlook some important things. The Garden Record is no less important. It may be kept in the simplest sort of way, but be sure to 22 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING keep it. A large piece of paper ruled as follows, for instance, will require only a few minutes’ attention each week and yet will prove of the greatest assist- ance in planning the garden next season. VEGETABLE GARDEN RECORD—IQIO VEGETABLE VARIETY Put in | Reavy | Notes Beans, dwarf |Red Valentine...|May 10|July 6 {Not best quality. Try other earlies Golden Wax ....|May 15 |July 22|Rusted. Spray next year Bean, pole . .|Old Homestead..! May 16 | July 26 | Toomany. 6 poles next year Early Leviathan | May 25 |Aug. 19|Good. Dry. Bean, lima. .|Fordhuok......|May15]......./Rotted. Try May 25 Beet ....... Egyptian ....../Apr.10 |June 12/Roots sprangled Eclipse.........|Apr.10|June 14| Better quality Cabbage ....|Wakefield...... Apr. 9 |June 20/Injured by worms. Helle- bore next year Etc., etc. . The above shows how such a record will be kept. Of course, only the first column is written in ahead. I want to emphasize in passing, however, the impor- tance of putting down your data on the day you plant, or harvest, or notice anything worth recording. If you let it go until tomorrow it is very apt to be lacking next year. Try these four short-cuts to success, even if you have had a garden before. They will make a big difference in your garden; less work and greater re- sults. PLAN 23 CHECK LIST Jan. tst—Send for catalogues. Make planting plan and table. Order seeds. Feb. 1st—Inside: cabbage, cauliflower, first sowing. Onions for plants. Feb. 15th—lInside: lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, beets. March 1st—Inside: lettuce, celery, tomato (early). March 15th—Inside: lettuce, tomato (main), egg- plant, pepper, lima beans, cucumber, squash; sprout potatoes in sand. April 1st—Inside: cauliflower (on sods), musk- melon, watermelon, corn. Outside: (seed-bed) celery, cabbage, lettuce. Onions, carrots, smooth peas, spinach, beets, chard, parsnip, turnip, radish. Lettuce, cabbage (plants). May ist—Beans, corn, spinach, lettuce, radish. May 15th—Beans, limas, muskmelon, watermelon, summer squash, peas, potatoes, lettuce, radish, tomato (early), corn, limas, melon, cucumber and squash (plants). Pole-lima, beets, corn, kale, winter squash, pumpkin, lettuce, radish. June Ist—Beans, carrots, corn, cucumber, peas, sum- mer spinach, summer lettuce, radish, egg-plant, pepper, tomato (main plants). June 15th—Beans, corn, peas, turnip, summer let- tuce, radish, late cabbage, and tomato plants. 24 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING July 1st—Beans, endive, kale, lettuce, radish, winter cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and celery plants. July 15th—Beans, early corn, early peas, lettuce, radish. Aug. 1st—Early peas, lettuce, radish. Aug. 15th—Early peas, lettuce, radish in seed-bed, forcing lettuce for fall in frames. Sept. rst—Lettuce, radish, spinach and onions for wintering over. Notg.—This list is for planting only (the dates are approxi- mate: see note 1 at head of page 29). Spraying and other garden operations may also be included in such a list. See “Calendar of Operations” at end of book. PLAN PLANTING TABLE 25 DISTANCE APART DEPTH TO VEGETABLE PLANT! SOW—INS. SEEDS3 ROWS I. CROPS REMAINING ENTIRE SEASON Asparagus, seed...} April-May........ I 2-4 in, 15 in. Asparagus, plants..| April ane 4 x ft, 3 ft. Bean, pole........}| May 15-June 10... 2 3 ft. 3 ft. Bean, lima........] May 20-June ro... 2 sft; 3 ft. Beet, late.........| April-August...... 2 3-4 in. 15 in. Carrot, late. sia. May-July........ $-1 2-3 in. 15 in. Corn, late........| May 20-July ro... 2 3 ft. 4 ft. Cucumber.........} May ro-July 15... I 4 ft. ait: Egg-plant, plants | June 1-20... .... 2 ft. 3o in. Leeks iacna tere oies ADH a sans Went s5 2-4 in 15 in. Melon, musk...... May 15-June 15... I 4 ft. 4 ft. Melon, water.. ...| May 15-Juners . I 6-8 ft. 6-8 ft. OniOnisies sean es] Aprile: caiocasccas d-r 2-4 in. 15 in. Okranigs tas so ase May 15-June 1s... $1 2 ft. 3 ft. Parsley*..........| April-May.,....... + 4-6 in, 1 ft. Parsnip 3c a's 2400-3 ADDI fea tvad-sea es d-1 3-5 in. 18 in. Pepper, seed...... June rst t 3-6 in. 15 in. Pepper, plants. ...| June 1-20........ he 2 ft. 30 in. Potatoes, main....| April 15-June 20... 4-6 13 in. 30 in. Pumpkins........| May 1-June 20.... 1-2 6-8 ft. 6-8 ft. Rhubarb, plants...} April............ ee 2-3 ft. 3 ft. Salsify...........| April-May........ I 3-6 in. 18 in. Squash, summer...| May 15-July 1.... 1-2 4 ft. 4 ft. Squash, winter.... .| May 15-June 20... I-2 6-8 ft. 6-8 ft. Tomato, seed..... JME Se sesso seesarsr ae 4 3-4 in. 1s in. Tomato, plants....}| May 15-July 20... 3 ft. 3 ft. Note.—The index reference numbers refer to notes on page 29. 26 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING SEED FOR VEGETABLE 50 FT. VARIETIES ROW Asparagus, seed...} 1 oz. Palmetto, Giant Argenteuil, Barr's Mammoth Asparagus, plants.| 50 Palmetto, Giant Argenteuil, Barr's Mammoth Bean pole........| 4 pt. Kentucky Wonder, Golden, Cluster, Burger's Stringless Bean, lima,...... 4 pt. Early Leviathan, Giant Podded, Burpee Improved Beet, late....... I oz. Crimson Globe Carrot, late..... $ oz. Danver’s Half-long, Ox-heart, Chantenay Corn, late,........] 4 pt. Seymour's Sweet Orange, White Evergreen, Country Gentleman Cucumber. .......] 4.02. Early White Spine, Fordhook Famous, Davis Perfect Egg-plant, plants. | 25 Black Beauty, N. Y. Purple Leek.............| $02. American Flag Melon, musk..... . + 02. Netted Gem, Emerald Gem, Hoodoo Melon, water......] 4 oz. Cole's Early, Sweetheart, Halbert Honey Onion.wcsccescea| $02: Prizetaker, Danver’s Globe, Ailsa Craig, Southport Red Globe, Mammoth Silver- skin (white) Okras ecient } 02. Perfected Perkins, White Velvet Parsley.. aa 4 oz, Emerald Parsnip.....:.:..| 4 02. Hollow Crowned (Improved) Pepper, seed......] 4 oz. Ruby King, Chinese Giant Pepper, plants.....} 25 Ruby King, Chinese Giant Potatoes, main....| 4 pk. Irish Cobbler, Green Mountain, Uncle Sam (Noroton Beauty, Norwood, early) Pumpkins.........] 4 02. Large Cheese, Quaker Pie Rhubarb, plants..} 25 Myatt's Victoria Salsify...........] 202. Mammoth Sandwich Squash, summer...] 4 oz. White Bush, Delicata, Fordhook, Vegetable Marrow Squash, winter....| } oz. Hubbard, Delicious Tomato, seed.....| 4 0z. Earliana, Chalk’s Jewel, Matchless, Dwarf Giant Tomato, plants....} 20 Earliana, Chalk's Jewel, Matchless, Dwarf Giant PLAN 27 Supre on6 DISTANCE APART VEGETABLE PLANT! SOW—INS. SEEDs? ROWS II. CROPS FOR SUCCESSION PLANTINGS Bean, dwarf...... May s-Aug. 15... . 2 2-4 in. 14-2 ft. Kohlrabi‘........ .| April-July........ 4-1 6-12 in, 14-2 ft. Lettuce!.......... April-August...... 4 x ft. 1-14 ft. Peas, smooth..... April r-Aug. 1... . 2-3 2-4 in. 3 ft. Peas, wrinkled... .| April 10-July 15.. 2-3 2-4 in. 3-4 ft. Radish...........] April 1-Sept r.... + 2-3 in. x ft. Spinachiniae seas os April-Sept 15..... I 3-5 in. 18 in, Turnip...........] April-Sept....... 4-1 4-6 in. 15 in. III. CROPS TO BE FOLLOWED BY OTHERS Beet, early.......] April-June....... 2 3-4 in. 15 in. Broccoli, early4....| April.. Ceres 4-1 ry ft. 2 ft. Borecole!......... April $-1 2 ft. 24 ft. Brussels sprouts‘...| April...........-. hex th ft. 2 ft. Cabbage, early’..... April $-r rt ft. 2 ft. Carrot. S26 April esece ates ced 4-1 2-3 in. 15 in. Cauliflower! Saree Aprils co gescinsnseie ea 3-1 14 ft. a ft. Corn, early....... May 10-20....... 2 3 ft. 3-4 ft. Onion sets........ April-May 15..... 1-2 2-4 in, 15 in. Peasiace. tec. ss April 1-May1.... a 2-4 in. 3 ft. Crops in Sec. II IV. CROPS THAT MAY FOLLOW OTHERS Beet, late......... July-August...... 2 3-4 in. rsin Borecole - a-r 2 ft. 24 ft. Broccoli - 4-1 2 ft. ay ft. Brussels sprouts...| May-June?....... }-1 th ft. 2 ft. Cabbage late.....| May-June? 4-1 2% ft. 2k ft. Cauliflower....... May-June?....... 4-1 2 ft. 2k ft. Celery, seed.......| April............ $ 1-2 in. rft. ¢ Celery, plant...... July r-Aug. 1..... x6 6 in, 3-4 ft. Endive’..........] April-August..... t 1 ft. x ft. Peas, late......... May 15-Aug. 1.... 2-3 2-4 in. 4 ft. Crops in Sec. II. 28 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING SEED FOR VEGETABLE 50 FT. VARIETIES ROW Il. CROPS FOR SUCCESSION PLANTINGS Bean, dwarf..... Kohlrabi. Lettuce. Peas, smooth. .... Peas, wrinkled Radish...... < Spinach. ........ Turnipyigins ossens III. Beet, early. ...... Broccoli, early. ... Borecole......... Brussels sprouts. . Cabbage, early ... Cauliflower. Corn, early. ...... Onion sets... Crops in Sec. II. 1 pt. 4 oz. 50 I pt. 1 pt. 4 oz. 4+ oz. 4 oz. Red Valentine, Burpee’s Greenpod, Improved Refugee, Brittle Wax, Rust-proof Golden Wax, Burpee's White Wax White Vienna Mignonette, Grand Rapids, May King, Big oston, New York, Deacon, Cos, Paris White American Wonder Gradus, Boston Unrivaled, Quite Content Rapid Red, Crimson Globe, Chinese Swiss Chard Beet, Long Season, Victoria White Milan, Petrowski, Golden Ball CROPS TO BE FOLLOWED BY OTHERS Edmund s Early, Early Model Early White French Dwarf Scotch Curled Dalkeith, Danish Prize Wakefield, Glory of Enkhuisen, Early Sum- mer, Succession, Savoy Golden Ball, Early Scarlet Horn Burpee's Best Early, Snowball, Sea-foam Dry Weather Golden Bantam, Peep o' Day, Cory IV. CROPS THAT MAY FOLLOW OTHERS Beet, late. ....... Borecole... ..05:.. Broceoline cccsise-nae Brussels sprouts. . Cabbage, late Cauliflower. ...... Celery, seed. ..... Celery, plant. .... Endive. ......... Peas, late......... Crops in Sec. II. Crimson Globe Dwarf Scotch Curled Early White French Dalkeith, Danish Prize Succession, Danish Ballhead Drumhead As above. [Savoy, Mammoth Rock (red) White Plume, Golden Self-blanching, Winter Queen White Plume, Golden Self-blanching, Winter Queen Broad-Leaved Batavian, Giant Fringed Gradus EG Rae E Eee Select a bow-head rake rather than one in which the teeth-bar is fastened directly to the shaft. At the right is the uscful prong-hoe er Four types of hoe; from the left, the scuffle- hoe, the heart-shaped hoe, the short hoe, and the common hoe e0y [e24M e IO} sie[jop Maj e puads yyoq JOF I1g St sod ayT “payrduns oq HIM nosé jt umturuiut e 0} padnpar aq [LM ued Suljurid jo ssas0id ajoyM ay} ‘JUSWYIL}}e Japees [[IIP ay} YM soy JaayM eB savy NOA FT PLAN 29 REFERENCE NOTES FROM THE TABLES 1In the vicinity of New York City. Each 100 miles north or south will make a difference of 5 to 7 days later or earlier. 2This is for sowing the seed. It will take three to six weeks before plants areready. Hence the advantage of using the seed-bed. For instance, you can start your late cabbage about June rsth, to follow the first crop of peas, which should be cleared off by the roth of July. 8Distances given are those at which the growing plants should stand, after thinning. Seed in drills should be sown several times as thick. ‘Best started in seed-bed, and afterward transplanted; but may be sown where wanted and afterward thinned to the best plants. Carter V, IMPLEMENTS AND THEIR USES T may seem to the reader that it is all very well to make a garden with a pencil, but that the work of transferring it to the soil must be quite another problem and one entailing so much work that he will leave it to the professional market gardener. He possibly pictures to himself some bent-kneed and stoop-shouldered man with the hoe, and decides that after all there is too much work in the garden game. What a revelation would be in store for him if he could witness one day’s opera- tions in a modern market garden! Very likely indeed not a hoe would be seen during the entire visit. Modern implements, within less than a gen- eration, have revolutionized gardening. This is true of the small garden as certainly as of the large one: in fact, in proportion I am not sure but that it is more so—because of the second won- derful thing about modern garden tools, that is, the low prices at which they can be bought, considering the enormous percentage of labor saved in accom- (30) IMPLEMENTS 31 plishing results. There is nothing in the way of expense to prevent even the most modest gardener acquiring, during a few years, by the judicious ex- penditure of but a few dollars annually, a very com- plete outfit of tools that will handsomely repay their cost. While some garden tools have been improved and developed out of all resemblance to their original forms, others have changed little in generations, and in probability will remain ever with us. There is a thing or two to say about even the simplest of them, however,—especially to anyone not familiar with their uses. There are tools for use in every phase of horticul- tural operations; for preparing the ground, for planting the seed, for cultivation, for protecting crops from insects and disease, and for harvesting. First of all comes the ancient and honorable spade, which, for small garden plots, borders, beds, etc., must still be relied upon for the initial operation in gardening—breaking up the soil. There are several types, but any will answer the purpose. In buying a spade look out for two things: see that it is well strapped up the handle in front and back, and that it hangs well. In spading up ground, especially soil that is turfy or hard, the work may be made easier by taking a strip not quite twice as wide as the spade, and making diagonal cuts so that one vertical 30 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING edge of the spade at each thrust cuts clean out to where the soil has already been dug. The wide-tined spading-fork is frequently used instead of the spade, as it is lighter and can be more advantageously used to break up lumps and level off surfaces. In most soils it will do this work as well, if not better, than the spade and has the further good quality of being serviceable as a fork too, thus combining two tools in one. It should be more generally known and used. With the ordinary fork, used for handling manure and gathering up trash, weeds, etc., every gardener is familiar. The type with oval, slightly up-curved tines, five or six in number, and a D handle, is the most convenient and comfortable for garden use. For areas large enough for a horse to turn around in, use a plow. There are many good makes. The swivel type has the advantage of turning all the fur- rows one way, and is the best for small plots and sloping ground. It should turn a clean, deep furrow. In deep soil that has long been cultivated, plowing should, with few exceptions, be down at least to the subsoil; and if the soil is shallow it will be advisable to turn up a little of the subsoil, at each plowing— not more than an inch—in order that the soil may gradually be deepened. In plowing sod it will be well to have the plow fitted with a coulter, which turns a miniature furrow ahead of the plowshare, ssary in s implements ys buy bras Of the sprayers alwa Wil, There are many types of hand “dusters” and sprayers, one at least of which will be nece the home garden. A barrel-pump suitable for spraying on a larger scale—useful in the home orchard IMPLEMENTS 33 thus covering under all sods and grass and getting them out of the way of harrows and other tools to be used later. In plowing under tall-growing green manures, like rye, a heavy chain is hung from the evener to the handle, thus pulling the crop down into the furrow so that it will all be covered under. Where drainage is poor it will be well to break up the subsoil with a subsoil plow, which follows in the wake of the regular plow but does not lift the subsoil to the surface. TOOLS FOR PREPARING THE SEED-BED The spade or spading-fork will be followed by the hoe, or hook, and the iron rake; and the plow by one or more of the various types of harrow. The best type of hoe for use after the spade is the wide, deep-bladed type. In most soils, however, this work may be done more expeditiously with the hook or prong-hoe (see illustration). With this the soil can be thoroughly pulverized to a depth of several inches. In using either, be careful not to pull up manure or trash turned under by the spade, as all such mate- rial if left covered will quickly rot away in the soil and furnish the best sort of plant food. I should think that our energetic manufactures would make a prong-hoe with heavy wide blades, like those of the spading-fork, but I have never seen such an implement, either in use or advertised. 3 34 HomE VEGETABLE GARDENING What the prong-hoe is to the spade, the harrow is to the plow. For general purposes the Acme is ‘an excellent harrow. It is adjustable, and for ground at all mellow will be the only one necessary ; set it, for the first time over, to cut in deep; and then, set for leveling, it will leave the soil in such excellent condition that a light hand-raking (or, for large areas, the Meeker smoothing-harrow) will pre- pare it for the finest of seeds, such as onions and carrots. The teeth of the Acme are so designed that they practically constitute a gang of miniature plows. Of disc harrows there are a great many makes. The salient feature of the disc type is that they can tear up no manure, grass or trash, even when these are but partly turned under by the plow. For this reason it is especially useful on sod or other rough ground. The most convenient harrow for putting on the finishing touches, for leveling off and fining the surface of the soil, is the lever spike-tooth. It is adjustable and can be used as a spike-tooth or as a smoothing harrow. Any of the harrows mentioned above (except the Meeker) and likewise the prong-hoe, will have to be followed by the iron rake when preparing the ground for small-seeded garden vegetables. Get the sort with what is termed the “bow” head (see illus- tration) instead of one in which the head is fastened directly to the end of the handle. It is less likely A fine way to manage the compost heap—no waste and no unsightly pile In order to be able to supply your garden soil with the elements of plant food it really needs, you will have to keep a record of production under various conditions, and then mix your fertilizers in the proper proportions to suit. Break up all lumps and mix the ingredients by hoeing in a box IMPLEMENTS 26 to get broken, and easier to use. There is quite a knack in manipulating even a garden rake, which will come only with practice. Do not rake as though you were gathering up leaves or grass. The secret in using the garden rake is not, to gather things up. Small stones, lumps of earth and such things, you of course wish to remove. Keep these raked off ahead of where you are leveling the soil, which is accomplished with a backward-and-forward move- ment of the rake. The tool-house of every garden of any size should contain a seed-drill. Labor which is otherwise te- dious and difficult is by it rendered mere play—as well as being better done. The operations of mark- ing the row, opening the furrow, dropping the seed at the proper depth and distance, covering imme- diately with fresh earth, and firming the soil, are all done at one fell swoop and as fast as you can walk. It will even drop seeds in hills. But that is not all: it may be had as part of a combination machine, which, after your seeds are planted—with each row neatly rolled on top, and plainly visible—may be at once transformed into a wheel hoe that will save you as much time in caring for your plants as the seed-drill did in planting your seed. Hoeing drudgery becomes a thing of the past. The illustra- tion herewith shows such a machine, and some of the varied attachments which may be had for it. 30 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING There are so many, and so varied in usefulness, that it would require an entire chapter to detail their special advantages and methods of use. The cata- logues describing them will give you many valuable suggestions; and other ways of utilizing them will discover themselves to you in your work. Valuable as the wheel hoe is, however, and varied in its scope of work, the time-tried hoe cannot be entirely dispensed with. An accompanying photo- graph (facing p. 28) shows four distinct types, all of which will pay for themselves in a garden of mod- erate size. The one on the right is the one most generally seen; next to it is a modified form which personally I prefer for all light work, such as loosening soil and cutting out weeds. It is lighter and smaller, quicker and easier to handle. Next to this is the Warren, or heart-shaped hoe, especially valuable in opening and covering drills for seed, such as beans, peas or corn. The scuffle-hoe, or scarifier, which completes the four, is used between narrow rows for shallow work, such as cutting off small weeds and breaking up the crust. It has been rendered less frequently needed by the advent of the wheel hoe, but when crops are too large to admit of the use of the latter, the scuffle-hoe is still an indispensable time-saver. There remains one task connected with gardening that is a bug-bear. That is hand-weeding. To get IMPLEMENTS 37 down on one’s hands and knees, in the blistering hot dusty soil, with the perspiration trickling down into one’s eyes, and pick small weedlets from among ten- der plantlets, is not a pleasant occupation. There are, however, several sorts of small weeders which lessen the work considerably. One or another of the common types will seem preferable, according to different conditions of soil and methods of work. Personally, I prefer the Lang’s for most uses (fac- ing p. 38). The angle blade makes it possible to cut very near to small plants and between close-growing plants, while the strap over the back of a finger or thumb leaves the fingers free for weeding without dropping the instrument. There are two things to be kept in mind about hand-weeding which will reduce this work to the minimum. First, never let the weeds get a start; for even if they do not increase in number, if they once smother the ground or crop, you will wish you had never heard of a garden. Second, do your hand- weeding while the surface soil is soft, when the weeds come out easily. A hard-crusted soil will double and treble the amount of labor required. It would seem that it should be needless, when garden tools are such savers of labor, to suggest that they should be carefully kept, always bright and clean and sharp, and in repair. But such advice is needed, to judge by most of the tools one sees. 38 HomE VEGETABLE GARDENING Always have a piece of cloth or old bag on hand where the garden tools are kept, and never put them away soiled and wet. Keep the cutting edges sharp. There is as much pleasure in trying to run a dull lawnmower as in working wth a rusty, battered hoe. Have an extra handle in stock in case of accident; they are not expensive. In selecting hand tools, always pick out those with handles in which the grain does not run out at the point where there will be much strain in using the tool. In rakes, hoes, etc., get the types with ferrule and shank one con- tinuous piece, so as not to be annoyed with loose heads. Spend a few cents to send for some implement catalogues. They will well repay careful perusal, even if you do not order this year. In these days of intensive advertising, the commercial catalogue often contains matter of great worth, in the gath- ering and presentation of which no expense has been spared. FOR FIGHTING PLANT ENEMIES The devices and implements used for fighting plant enemies are of two sorts:—(1) those used to afford mechanical protection to the plants; (2) those used to apply insecticides and fungicides. Of the first the most useful is the covered frame. It con- sists usually of a wooden box, some eighteen inches los ay} dn sulyeeiq ur asn Jo} UMOUY J9}}0q 2q 0} S8Aresap ysloj-Suipeds oy fT $}u90 AJUdM} St 380d ayy ‘pelisap =uaym Burpaam 104 sof Slasuy sy} sulavay ‘quinyy Jo Jasuy e J3A0 spus}xa des y ‘osn [viauads 10 jUsIUsAUOD =}SOW punoj sey 1oyjne ay} yey} JIpIoM -puey jo add} V Pulverize and level the soil by a backward-and- forward motion of the rake, not attempting to rake off all the small stones. Choose the bow- head rake rather than this pattern, as_ the former is stronger IMPLEMENTS 39 to two feet square and about eight high, covered with glass, protecting cloth, mosquito netting or mosquito wire. The first two coverings have, of course, the additional advantage of retaining heat and protect- ing from cold, making it possible by their use to plant earlier than is otherwise safe. They are used exten- sively in getting an extra early and safe start with cucumbers, melons and the other vine vegetables. Simpler devices for protecting newly-set plants, such as tomatoes or cabbage, from the cut-worm, are stiff, tin, cardboard or tar paper collars, which are made several inches high and large enough to be put around the stem and penetrate an inch or so into the soil. For applying poison powders, such as dry Paris green, hellebore and tobacco dust, the home gardener should supply himself with a powder gun, two types of which are illustrated facing p. 32. If one must be restricted to a single implement, however, it will be best to get one of the hand-power, compressed- air sprayers—either a knapsack pump or a com- pressed-air sprayer—types of which are illustrated. These are used for applying wet sprays, and should be supplied with one of the several forms of mist- making nozzles, the non-cloggable automatic type being the best. For more extensive work a barrel pump, mounted on wheels, will be desrable, but one of the above will do a great deal of work in little 40 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING time. Extension rods for use in spraying trees and vines may be obtained for either. (See illustration in chapter on spraying, facing p. 215.) For operations on a very small scale a good hand-syringe may be used, but as a general thing it will be best to invest a few dollars more and get a small tank sprayer, as this throws a continuous stream or spray and holds a much larger amount of the spraying solution. Whatever type is procured, get a brass machine— it will out-wear three or four of those made of cheaper metal, which succumbs very quickly to the, corroding action of the strong poisons and chemicals used in them. Of implements for harvesting, beside the spade, prong-hoe and spading-fork already mentioned, very few are used in the small garden, as most of them need not only long rows to be economically used, but horse-power also. The onion harvester attach- ment for the double wheel hoe, costing $1.00, may be used with advantage in loosening onions, beets, turnips, etc., from the soil or for cutting spinach. Running the hand-plow close on either side of car- rots, parsnips and other deep-growing vegetables will aid materially in getting them out. For fruit picking, with tall trees, the wire-fingered fruit-picker, secured to the end of a long handle, will be of great assistance, but with the modern method of using low- headed trees it will not be needed. IMPLEMENTS 41 Another class of garden implements are those used in pruning—but where this is attended to prop- erly from the start, a good sharp jack-knife and a pair of pruning shears (the English makes are the best, as they are in some things, when we are frank enough to confess the truth) will easily handle all the work of the kind necessary. Still another sort of garden device is that used for supporting the plants; such as stakes, trellises, wires, etc. Altogether too little attention usually is given these, as with proper care in storing over win- ter they will not only last for years, but add greatly to the convenience of cultivation and to the neat appearance of the garden. Various contrivances are illustrated in the seed catalogues, and many may be home-made—such as the stake-trellis for supporting beans, illustrated facing p. 106. As a final word to the intending purchaser of gar- den tools, I would say: first thoroughly investigate the different sorts available, and when buying, do not forget that a good tool or a well-made machine will be giving you satisfactory use long, long after the price is forgotten, while a poor one is a constant source of discomfort. Get good tools, and take good care of them. And let me repeat that a few dollars a year, judiciously spent, for tools afterward well cared for, will soon give you a very complete set, and add to your garden profit and pleasure. CHAPTER VI. MANURES AND FERTILIZERS O a very small extent garden vegetables get their food from the air. The amount ob- tained in this way however, is so infinitesi- mal that from the practical standpoint it need not be considered at all. Practically speaking, your vegeta- bles must get all their food from the garden soil. This important garden fact may seem self-evi- dent, but, if one may judge by their practice, ama- teur gardeners very frequently fail to realize it. The professional gardener must come to realize it for the simple reason that if he does not he will go out of business. Without an abundant supply of suitable food it is just as impossible to grow good vegetables as it would be to train a winning football team on a. diet of sweet cider and angel cake. Without plenty of plant food, all the care, coddling, coaxing, culti- vating, spraying and worrying you may give will avail little. The soil must be rich or the garden will be poor. (42) yoqyed uapies s r0yjne ay} I0F «PSINOD JSIY,, OY} JO Javed St sty, “YW paay jsiy ysnw Nod ‘nok paay punosd ay} oaey OT, ss 2 yon aa 2 Burjurld o1ojaq [tos 9y} YYW JOM Xiu OF SdAvaqT ay} uo Auv jad Jou Od [NJoivo 9g “UMOS A1B Spaas dY} FJOJoq SMOI ay} «= “SMNWYS e}erpeutut Ue PIoUl sjurjd 9y} Us ur pordde aie srazipiqtay [e@otutayd 9Yy} JO sWI0S ‘SmOI JO SOpIs ay} SucTe epos jo o}eI}IU ATddy FERTILIZERS 43 Plant food is of as many kinds, or, more accurately speaking, in as many forms, as is food for human beings. But the first distinction to make in plant foods is that between available and non-available foods—that is, between foods which it is possible for the plant to use, and those which must undergo a change of some sort before the plant can take them up, assimilate them, and turn them into a healthy growth of foliage, fruit or root. It is just as readily possible for a plant to starve in a soil abounding in plant food, if that food is not avail- able, as it would be for you to go unnourished in the midst of soups and tender meats if the latter were frozen solid. Plants take all their nourishment in the form of soups, and very weak ones at that. Plant food to be available must be soluble to the action of the feeding root tubes; and unless it is available it might, as far as the present benefiting of your garden is concerned, just as well not be there at all. Plants take up their food through innumerable and microscopic feeding rootlets, which possess the power of absorbing moisture, and furnishing it, distributed by the plant juices, or sap, to stem, branch, leaf, flower and fruit. There is one startling fact which may help to fix these things in your memory: it takes from 300 to 500 pounds of water to furnish food for the build- ing of one pound of dry plant matter. You can see 44 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING why plant food is not of much use unless it is avail- able; and it is not available unless it is soluble. THE THEORY OF MANURING The food of plants consists of chemical elements, or rather, of numerous substances which contain these elements in greater or less degrees. There is not room here to go into the interesting science of this matter. It is evident, however, as we have already seen that the plants must get their food from the soil, that there are but two sources for such food: it must either be in the soil already, or we must put it there. The practice of adding plant food to the soil is what is called manuring. The only three of the chemical elements mentioned which we need consider are: nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash. The average soil contains large amounts of all three, but they are for the most part in forms which are not available and, therefore, to that extent, may be at once dismissed from our con- sideration. (The non-available plant foods already in the soil may be released or made available to some extent by cultivation. See Chapter VII.) In prac- tically every soil that has been cultivated and cropped, in long-settled districts, the amounts of nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash which are im- mediately available will be too meager to produce a good crop of vegetables. It becomes absolutely FERTILIZERS 45 necessary then, if one would have a really successful garden, no matter how small it is, to add plant foods to the soil abundantly. When you realize, (1) that the number of plant foods containing the three es- sential elements is almost unlimited, (2) that each contains them in different proportions and in differ- ing degrees of availability, (3) that the amount of the available elements already in the soil varies greatly and is practically undeterminable, and (4) that different plants, and even different varieties of the same plant, use these elements in widely differing proportions; then you begin to understand what a complex matter this question of manuring is and why it is so much discussed and so little understood. What a labyrinth it offers for any writer—to say nothing of the reader—to go astray in! I have tried to present this matter clearly. If I have succeeded it may have been only to make the reader hopelessly discouraged of ever getting at any- thing definite in the question of enriching the soil. In that case my advice would be that, for the time being, he forget all about it. Fortunately, in the question of manuring, a little knowledge is not often a dangerous thing. Fortunately, too, your plants do not insist that you solve the food problem for them. Set a full table and they will help themselves and take the right dishes. The only thing to worry about is that of the three important foods men- 46 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING tioned (nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash) there will not be enough: for it has been proved that when any one of these is exhausted the plant practically stops growth; it will not continue to “fill up” on the other two. Of course there is such a thing as going to extremes and wasting plant foods, even if it does not, as a rule, hurt the plants. If, however, the fer- tilizers and manures described in the following pages are applied as directed, and as mentioned in Chapter VII., good results will be certain, provided the seed, cultivation and season are right. VARIOUS MANURES The terms “manure” and “fertilizer” are used somewhat ambiguously and interchangeably. Using the former term in a broad sense—as meaning any substance containing available plant food applied to the soil, we may say that manure is of two kinds: organic, such as stable manure, or decayed vegetable matter; and inorganic, such as potash salts, phos- phatic rock and commercial mixed fertilizers. Ina general way the term “fertilizer” applies to these inorganic manures, and [I shall use it in this sense through the following pages. Between the organic manures, or “natural” manures ‘as they are often called, and fertilizers there is a very important difference which should never be lost sight of. In theory, and as a chemical FERTILIZERS 47 fact too, a bag of fertilizer may contain twice the available plant food of a ton of well rotted manure; but out of a hundred practical gardeners ninety-nine —and probably one more—would prefer the manure. There is a reason why—two reasons, even if not one of the hundred gardeners could give them to you. First, natural manures have a decided physical effect upon most soils (altogether aside from the plant food they contain) ; and second, plants seem to have a preference as to the form in which their food ele- ments are served to them. Fertilizers, on the other hand, are valuable only for the plant food they con- tain, and sometimes have a bad effect upon the physical condition of the soil. When it comes right down to the practical ques- tion of what to put on your garden patch to grow big crops, nothing has yet been discovered that is better than the old reliable stand-by—well rotted, thoroughly fined stable or barnyard manure. Heed those adjectives! We have already seen that plant food which is not available might as well be, for our immediate purposes, at the North Pole. The plant food in “green” or fresh manure is not available, and does not become so until it is released by the decay of the organic matters therein. Now the time possible for growing a crop of garden vegetables is limited; in many instances it is only sixty to ninety days. The plants want their food ready at once; 48 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING there is no time to be lost waiting for manure to rot in the soil. That is a slow process—especially so in clayey or heavy soils. So on your garden use only manure that is well rotted and broken up. On the other hand, see that it has not “fire-fanged” or burned out, as horse manure, if piled by itself and left, is very sure to do. If you keep any animals of your own, see that the various sorts of manure— excepting poultry manure, which is so rich that it is a good plan to keep it for special purposes—are mixed together and kept in a compact, built-up square heap, not a loose pyramidal pile. Keep it under cover and where it cannot wash out. If you have a pig or so, your manure will be greatly im- proved by the rooting, treading and mixing they will give it. If not, the pile should be turned from bottom to top and outside in and rebuilt, treading down firmly in the process, every month or two— applying water, but not soaking, if it has dried out in the meantime. Such manure will be worth two or three times as much, for garden purposes, as that left to burn or remain in frozen lumps. If you have to buy all your manure, get that which has been properly kept; and if you are not familiar with the condition in which it should be, get a disinterested gardener or farmer to select it for you. When pos- sible, it will pay you to procure manure several months before you want to use it and work it over FERTILIZERS 49 as suggested above. In buying manure keep in mind not what animals made it, but what food was fed— that is the important thing. For instance, the ma- nure from highly-fed livery horses may be, weight for weight, worth three to five times that from cattle wintered over on poor hay, straw and a few roots. There are other organic manures which it is some- times possible for one to procure, such as refuse brewery hops, fish scraps and sewage, but they are as a rule out of the reach of, or objectionable for, the purposes of the home gardener. There are, however, numerous things constantly going to waste about the small place, which should be converted into manure. Fallen leaves, grass clip- pings, vegetable tops and roots, green weeds, gar- bage, house slops, dish water, chip dirt from the wood-pile, shavings—any thing that will rot away, should go into the compost heap. These should be saved, under cover if possible, in a compact heap and kept moist (never soaked) to help decomposi- tion. To start the heap, gather up every available substance and make it into a pile with a few wheel- barrows full, or half a cartload, of fresh horse man- ure, treading the whole down firmly. Fermentation and decomposition will be quickly started. The heap should occasionally be forked over and restacked. Light dressings of lime, mixed in at such times, will aid thorough decomposition. 4 5° HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING Wood ashes form another valuable manure which should be carefully saved. Beside the plant food contained, they have a most excellent effect upon the mechanical condition of almost every soil. Ashes should not be put in the compost heap, because there are special uses for them, such as dusting on squash or melon vines, or using on the onion bed, which makes it desirable to keep them separate. Wood ashes may frequently be bought for fifty cents a barrel, and at this price a few barrels for the home garden will be a good investment. Coal ashes contain practically no available plant food, but are well worth saving to use on stiff soils, for paths, etc. VALUE OF GREEN MANURING ‘Another source of organic manures, altogether too little appreciated, is what is termed “green manuring”—the plowing under of growing crops to enrich the land. Even in the home garden this sys- tem should be taken advantage of whenever possible. In farm practice, clover is the most valuable crop to use for this purpose, but on account of the length of time necessary to grow it, it is useful for the vege- table garden only when there is sufficient room to have clover growing on, say, one half-acre plot, while the garden occupies, for two years, another half-acre; and then changing the two about. This FERTILIZERS 51 system will give an ideal garden soil, especially where it is necessary to rely for the most part upon chemical fertilizers. There are, however, four crops valuable for green- manuring the garden, even where the same spot must be occupied year after year: rye, field corn, field peas (or cow peas in the south) and crimson clover. After the first of September, sow every foot of garden ground cleared of its last crop, with winter rye. Sow all ground cleared during August with crimson clover and buckwheat, and mulch the clover with rough manure after the buckwheat dies down. Sow field peas or corn on any spots that would otherwise remain unoccupied six weeks or more. All these are sown broadcast, on a freshly raked surface. Such a system will save a very large amount of plant food which otherwise would be lost, will convert unavailable plant food into availa- ble forms while you wait for the next crop, and add humus to the soil—concerning the importance of which see Chapter VII., page 67. CHEMICAL FERTILIZERS I am half tempted to omit entirely any discussion of chemical fertilizers: to give a list of them, tell how to apply them, and let the why and wherefore go. It is, however, such an important subject, and the home gardener will so frequently have to rely 52 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING almost entirely upon their use, that probably it will be best to explain the subject as thoroughly as I can do it in very limited space. I shall try te give the theory of scientific chemical manuring in one paragraph. We have already seen that the soil contains within itself some available plant food. We can determine by chemical analysis the exact amounts of the va- rious plant foods—nitrogen, phosphoric acid, potash, etc.—which a crop of any vegetable will remove from the soil. The idea in scientific chemical ma- nuring is to add to the available plant foods already in the soil just enough more to make the resulting amounts equal to the quantities of the various ele- ments used by the crop grown. In other words: Available plant food elements in the soil, plus Available chemical food elements supplied in fertilizers Amounts of food ele- = ments in matured crop That was the theory—a very pretty and profound one! The discoverers of it imagined that all agri- culture would be revolutionized; all farm and garden practice reduced to an exact science; all older theories of husbandry and tillage thrown by the heels together upon the scrap heap of outworn things. Science was to solve at one fell swoop all the age-old problems of agriculture. And the whole thing was all right in every way but one—it didn’t FERTILIZERS 53 work. The unwelcome and obdurate fact remained that a certain number of pounds of nitrogen, phos- phoric acid and potash—about thirty-three—in a ton of good manure would grow bigger crops than would the same number of pounds of the same ele- ments in a bag of chemical fertilizer. Nevertheless this theory, while it failed as the basis of an exact agricultural science, has been de- veloped into an invaluable guide for using all manures, and especially concentrated chemical ma- nures. And the above facts, if I have presented them clearly, will assist the home gardener in solv- ing the fertilizer problems which he is sure to encounter. VARIOUS FERTILIZERS What are termed the raw materials from which the universally known “mixed fertilizers” are made up, are organic or inorganic substances which con- tain nitrogen, phosphoric acid or potash in fairly definite amounts. Some of these can be used to advantage by them- selves. Those practical for use by the home gar- dener, I mention. The special uses to which they are adapted will be mentioned in Part Two, under the vegetables for which they are valuable. Grounp Bone is rich in phosphate and lasts a long time; what is called “raw bone” is the best. 54 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING “Bone dust” or “bone flour” is finely pulverized; it will produce quick results, but does not last as long as the coarser forms. CoTTON-SEED MEAL is one of the best nitrogenous fertilizers for garden crops. It is safer than nitrate of soda in the hands of the inexperienced gardener, and decays very quickly in the soil. ‘PERUVIAN GUANO, in the pure form, is now prac- tically out of the market. Lower grades, less rich in nitrogen especially, are to be had; and also “forti- fied” guano, in which chemicals are added to in- crease the content of nitrogen. It is good for quick results. Nitrate oF Sopa, when properly handled, fre- quently produces wonderful results in the garden, particularly upon quick-growing crops. It is the richest in nitrogen of any chemical generally used, and a great stimulant to plant growth. When used alone it is safest to mix with an equal bulk of light dirt or some other filler. If applied pure, be sure to observe the following rules or you may burn your plants: (1) Pulverize all lumps; (2) see that none of it lodges upon the foliage; (3) never apply when there is moisture upon the plants; (4) apply in many small doses—say 10 to 20 pounds at a time for 50 x 100 feet of garden. It should be put on so sparingly as to be barely visible; but its presence will soon be denoted by the moist spot, looking like : iE Bie. bs If the soil after rain compresses into a pasty compact mass, turn to another spot for your garden site If the compressed ball of earth crumbles apart in the hands when released, it is good garden loam. Sow small seeds directly from the packet, shak- ing them directly into the drill when there is no wind. Cover at once Tn order to avoid washing out the seeds by watering, cover the flat with burlap to case the force of the water FERTILIZERS 55 a big rain drop, which each particle of it makes in the dry soil. Nitrate of soda may also be used sately in solution, at the rate of 1 pound to 12 gallons of water. I describe its use thus at length because I consider it the most valuable single chemi- cal which the gardener has at command. MouriaTE and SULPHATE OF PoTasH are also used by themselves as sources of potash, but as a general thing it will be best to use them in combina- tion with other chemicals as described uader “Home Mixing.” Lime will be of benefit to most soils. It acts largely as an indirect fertilizer, helping to release other food elements already in the soil, but in non- available forms. It should be applied once in three to five years, at the rate of 75 to 100 bushels per acre, after plowing, and thoroughly harrowed in. Apply as long before planting as possible, or in the fall. MIXED FERTILIZERS Mixed fertilizers are of innumerable brands, and for sale everywhere. It is little use to pay attention to the claims made for them. Even where the analysis is guaranteed, the ordinary gardener has no way of knowing that the contents of his few bags are what they are labeled. The best you can do, however, is to buy on the basis of analysis, not of 56 HomE VEGETABLE GARDENING price per ton—usually the more you pay per bag, the cheaper you are really buying your actual plant food. Send to the Experiment Station in your State and ask for the last bulletin on fertilizer values. It will give a list of the brands sold throughout the State, the retail price per ton, and the actual value of plant foods contained in a ton. Then buy the brand in which you will apparently get the greatest value. For garden crops the mixed fertilizer you use should contain (about) : Nitrogen, 4 per cent. Basic formula Phosphoric acid, 8 per cent. = for Potash, 10 per cent. Garden crops If applied alone, use at the rate of 1000 to 1500 pounds per acre. If with manure, less, in propor- tion to the amount of the latter used. By “basic formula’ (see above) is meant one which contains the plant foods in the proportion which all garden crops must have. Particular crops may need additional amounts of one or more of the three elements, in order to attain their maximum growth. Such extra feeding is usually supplied by top dressings, during the season of growth. The extra food beneficial to the different vegetables will be mentioned in the cultural directions in Part Two. FERTILIZERS 57 HOME MIXING If you look over the Experiment Station report mentioned above, you will notice that what are called “home mixtures’? almost invariably show a higher value compared to the cost than any regular brand. In some cases the difference is fifty per cent. This means that you can buy the raw chemicals and make up your own mixtures cheaper than you can buy mixed fertilizers. More than that, it means you will have purer mixtures. More than that, it means you will have on hand the materials for giving your crops the special feeding mentioned above. The idea widely prevails, thanks largely to the fertilizer companies, that home mixing cannot be practically done, especially upon a small scale. From both in- formation and personal experience I know the contrary to be the case. With a tight floor or plat- form, a square-pointed shovel and a coarse wire screen, there is absolutely nothing impractical about it. The important thing is to see that all ingredients are evenly and thoroughly mixed. A scale for weighing will also be a convenience. Further in- formation may be had from the firms which sell raw materials, or from your Experiment Station. APPLYING MANURES The matter of properly applying manure, even on the small garden, is also of importance. In amount, 58 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING from fifteen to twenty-five cords, or 60 to 100 cart- loads, will not be too much; although if fertilizers are used to help out, the manure may be decreased in proportion. If possible, take it from the heap in which it has been rotting, and spread evenly over the soil immediately before plowing. If actively fer- menting, it will lose by being exposed to wind and sun. If green, or in cold weather, it may be spread and left until plowing is done. When plowing, it should be completely covered under, or it will give all kinds of trouble in sowing and cultivating. Fertilizers should be applied, where used to sup- plement manure or in place of it, at from 500 to 1500 pounds per acre, according to grade and other conditions. It is sown on broadcast, after plowing, care being taken to get it evenly distributed. This may be assured by sowing half while going across the piece, and the other half while going lengthwise of it. When used as a starter, or for top dressings —as mentioned in connection with the basic formula —it may be put in the hill or row at time of planting, or applied on the surface and worked in during the growth of the plants. In either case, especially with highly concentrated chemicals, care must be taken to mix them thoroughly with the soil and to avoid burning the tender roots. This chapter is longer than I wanted to make it, but the problem of how best to enrich the soil is the 4 FERTILIZERS 59 most difficult one in the whole business of gardening, and the degree of your success in growing vegetables will be measured pretty much by the extent to which you master it. You cannot do it at one reading. Re-read this chapter, and when you understand the several subjects mentioned, in the brief way which limited space made necessary, pursue them farther in one of the several comprehensive books on the subject. It will well repay all the time you spend upon it. Because, from necessity, there has been so much of theory mixed up with the practical in this chapter, I shall very briefly recapitulate the direc- tions for just what to do, in order that the subject of manuring may be left upon the same practical basis governing the rest of the book. To make your garden rich enough to grow big crops, buy the most thoroughly worked over and decomposed manure you can find. If it is from grain-fed animals, and if pigs have run on it, it will be better yet. If possible, buy enough to put on at the rate of about twenty cords to the acre; if not, supplement the manure, which should be plowed un- der, with 500 to 1500 pounds of high-grade mixed fertilizer (analyzing nitrogen four per cent., phos- phoric acid eight per cent., potash ten per cent. )— the quantity in proportion to the amount of manure used, and spread on broadcast after plowing and thoroughly harrowed in. In addition to this general 60 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING enrichment of the soil, suitable quantities of nitrate of soda, for nitrogen ; bone dust (or acid phosphate), for phosphoric acid; and sulphate of potash, for potash, should be bought for later dressings, as sug- gested in cultural directions for the various crops. If the instructions in the above paragraph are followed out you may rest assured that your vegeta- bles will not want for plant food and that, if other conditions are favorable, you will have maximum crops. CuHapter VII THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION limited space available permitted, the mat- ter of plant foods, we must proceed to the equally important one of how properly to set the table, on or rather in, which they must be placed, before the plants can use them. As was noted in the first part of the preceding chapter, most tillable soils contain the necessary plant food elements to a considerable extent, but only in a very limited degree in available forms. They are locked up in the soil larder, and only after undergoing physical and chemical changes may be taken up by the feeding roots of plants. They are unlocked only by the disintegration and decomposi- tion of the soil particles, under the influence of cul- tivation—or mechanical breaking up—and the access of water, air and heat. The great importance of the part the soil must play in every garden operation is therefore readily seen. In the first place, it is required to furnish (61) | I AVING considered, as thoroughly as the 62 HoMe VEGETABLE GARDENING all the plant food elements—some seven in number, beside the three, nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash, already mentioned. In the second, it must hold the moisture in which these foods must be either dissolved or suspended before plant roots can take them up. The soil is naturally classified in two ways: first, as to the amount of plant food contained; second, as to its mechanical condition—the relative propor- tions of sand, decomposed stone and clay, of which it is made up, and also the degree to which it has been broken up by cultivation. The approximate amount of available plant food already contained in the soil can be determined sat- isfactorily only by experiment. As before stated, however, almost without exception they will need liberal manuring to produce good garden crops. I shall therefore not go further into the first classifica- tion of soils mentioned. Of soils, according to their variation in mechan- ical texture, I shall mention only the three which the home gardener is likely to encounter. Rocks are the original basis of all soils, and according to the de- gree of fineness to which they have been reduced, through centuries of decomposition by air, moisture and frost, they are known as gravelly, sandy or clayey soils. Cray Soirs are stiff, wet, heavy and usually THE SOIL 63 “cold.” For garden purposes, until properly trans- formed, they hold too much water, are difficult to handle, and are “late.” But even if there be no choice but a clay soil for the home garden, the gar- dener need not be discouraged. By proper treatment it may be brought into excellent condition for grow- ing vegetables, and will produce some sorts, such as celery, better than any warm, light, “garden” soil. The first thing to do with the clay soil garden, is to have it thoroughly drained. For the small amount of ground usually required for a home garden, this will entail no great expense. Under ordinary con- ditions, a half-acre garden could be under-drained for from $25 to $50—probably nearer the first figure. The drains—round drain tile, with collars— should be placed at least three feet deep, and if they can be put four, it will be much better. The lines should be, for the former depth, twenty to thirty feet apart, according to character of the soil; if four feet deep, they will accomplish just as much if put thirty to fifty feet apart—so it pays to put them in deep. For small areas 21-inch land tile will do. The round style gives the best satisfaction and will prove cheapest in the end. The outlet should of course be at the lowest point of land, and all drains, main and laterals, should fall slightly, but without exception, toward this point. Before undertaking to put in the drains, even on a small area, it will pay 64 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING well to read some good book on the subject, such as Draining for Profit and Draining for Health, by Waring. : But drain—if your land requires it. It will in- crease the productiveness of your garden at least 50 to 100 per cent.—and such an increase, as you can readily see, will pay a very handsome annual divi- dend on the cost of draining. Moreover, the drain- ing system, if properly put in, will practically never need renewal. On land that has a stiff or clay sub-soil, it will pay well to break this up—thus making it more possible for the water to soak down through the surface soil rapidly—by using the sub-soil plow. (See Chapter V.) The third way to improve clay soils is by using coarse vegetable manures, large quantities of stable manures, ashes, chips, sawdust, sand, or any similar materials, which will tend to break up and lighten the soil mechanically. Lime and land plaster are also valuable, as they cause chemical changes which tend to break up clayey soils. The fourth thing to do in treating a garden of heavy soil is to plow, ridging up as much as possible, in the fall, thus leaving the soil exposed to the pul- verizing influences of weather and frost. Usually it will not need replowing in the spring. If not plowed until the spring, care should be taken not to THE SOIL 65 plow until it has dried out sufficiently to crumble from the plow, instead of making a wet, pasty furrow. The owner of a clayey garden has one big conso- lation. It will not let his plant food go to waste. It will hold manures and fertilizers incorporated with it longer than any other soil. SANDY SoIL is, as the term implies, composed largely of sand, and is the reverse of clay soil. So, also, with the treatment. It should be so handled as to be kept as compact as possible. The use of a heavy roller, as frequently as possible, will prove very beneficial. Sowing or planting should follow immediately after plowing, and fertilizers or ma- nures should be applied only immediately before. If clay soil is obtainable nearby, a small area of sandy soil, such as is required for the garden, can be made into excellent soil by the addition of the former, applied as you would manure. Plow the garden in the fall and spread the clay soil on evenly, harrowing in with a disc in the spring. The result will be as beneficial as that of an equal dressing of good manure—and will be permanent. It is one of the valuable qualities of lime, and also of gypsum to even a greater extent, that while it helps a clay soil, it is equally valuable for a sandy one. The same is true of ashes and,of the organic manures—especially of green manuring. Fertiliz- 5 66 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING ers, on sandy soils, where they will not long be retained, should be applied only immediately before planting, or as top and side dressing during growth. Sandy soil in the garden will produce early and quick results, and is especally adapted to melons, cucumbers, beans and a number of the other garden vegetables. GRAVELLY SOIL is generally less desirable than either of the others; it has the bad qualities of sandy soil and not the good ones of clay, besides being poorer in plant food. (Calcareous, or limestone pebble, soils are an exception, but they are not widely encountered.) They are not suited for garden work, as tillage harms rather than helps them. Tue IpEAL GARDEN Sor is what is known as a “rich, sandy loam,” at least eight inches deep; if it is eighteen it will be better. It contains the proper proportions of both sand and clay, and further has been put into the best of mechanical condition by good tilth. That last word brings us to a new and very im- portant matter. “In good tilth” is a condition of the soil difficult to describe, but a state that the gar- dener comes soon to recognize. Ground, continually and properly cultivated, comes soon to a degree of fineness and lightness at once recognizable. Rain is immedately absorbed by it, and does not stand upon the surface; it does not readily clog or pack down; THE SOIL 67 it is crumbly and easily worked; and until your gar- den is brought to this condition you cannot attain the greatest success from your efforts. I emphasized “properly cultivated.” That means that the soil must be kept well supplied with humus, or decom- posed vegetable matter, either by the application of sufficient quantities of organic manures, or by green manuring, or by “resting under grass,” which pro- duces a similar result from the amount of roots and stubble with which the soil is filled when the sod is broken up. Only by this supply of humus can the garden be kept in that light, friable, spongy condi- tion which is absolutely essential to luxuriant vege- table growth. PREPARING THE SOIL Unless your garden be a very small one indeed, it will pay to have it plowed rather than dug up by hand, If necessary, ar- range the surrounding eee aan fence as suggested in Pi the accompanying dia- Doe ae oe gram, to make possible 2 enpe , the use of a horse for '\ ‘ plowing and harrow- Hf ing. (As suggested in the chapter on Imple- Dodie Hades ay ments, page 32), if 68 HoMe VEGETABLE GARDENING there is not room for a team, the one-horse plow, spring-tooth and spike-tooth cultivators, can do the work in very small spaces. If however the breaking up of the garden must be done by hand, have it done deeply—down to the sub- soil, or as deep as the spading-fork will go. And have it done thoroughly, every spadeful turned com- pletely and every inch dug. It is hard work, but it must not be slighted. PLOWING If the garden can be plowed in the fall, by all means have it done. If it is in sod, it must be done at that time if good results are to be secured the fol- lowing season. In this latter case, plow a shallow furrow four to six inches deep and turning flat, as early as possible in the fall, turning under a coating of horse manure, or dressing of lime, and then going over it with a smoothing-harrow or the short blades of the Acme, to fill in all crevices. The object of the plowing is to get the sods rotted thoroughly before the following spring; then apply manure and plow deeply, six to twelve inches, according to the soil. Where the old garden is to be plowed up, if there has not been time to get in one of the cover crops suggested on page 51, plow as late as possible, and in ridges. If the soil is light and sandy, fall plowing will not be advisable. THE SOIL 69 In beginning the spring work it is customary to put on the manure and plow but once. But the labor of double plowing will be well repaid, especially on a soil likely to suffer from drouth, if the ground be plowed once, deeply, before the manure is spread on, and then cross-plowed just sufficiently to turn the manure well under—say five or six inches. On stiff lands, and especially for root crops, it will pay if possible to have the sub-soil plow follow the regular plow. This is, of course, for thoroughly rotted and fined manure; if coarse, it had better be put under at one plowing, making the best of a handicap. If you have arranged to have your garden plowed “by the job,” be on hand to see that no shirking is done, by taking furrows wider than the plow can turn com- pletely; it is possible to “cut and cover” so that the surface of a piece will look well enough, when in reality it is little better than half plowed. HARROWING That is the first step toward the preparation of a successful garden out of the way. Next comes the harrowing ; if the soil after plowing is at all stiff and lumpy, get a disc-harrow if you can; on clayey soils a “cut-a-way” (see Implements). On the average garden soil, however, the Acme will do the work of pulverizing in fine shape. If, even after harrowing, the soil remains lumpy, 70 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING have the man who is doing your work get a horse- roller somewhere, and go over the piece with that. The roller should be used also on very sandy and light soils, after the first harrowing (or after the plowing, if the land turns over mellow) to compact it, as suggested on page 65. To follow the first harrowing (or the roller) use a smoothing-harrow, the Acme set shallow, or a “brush.” FINING. This treatment will reduce to a minimum the labor of finally preparing the seed- or plant-bed with the iron rake (or, on large gardens, with the Meeker harrow). After the finishing touches, the soil should be left so even and smooth that you can with diffi- culty bring yourself to step on it. Get it “like a table’—and then you are ready to begin gardening. Whatever implements are used, do not forget the great importance of making the soil thoroughly fine, not only at the surface, but as far as possible below. Even under the necessity of repetition. I want to em- phasize this again by stating the four chief benefits, of this thorough pulverization: First, it adds mate- rially in making the plant foods in the soil available for use; secondly, it induces the growing plants to root deeply, and thus to a greater extent to escape the drying influence of the sun; thirdly, it enables the soil to absorb rain evenly, where it falls, which Tf you have not time to make your own coldframe, buy one ready-made that simply needs vulting together The sash, ath fie glass whitewashed, may be used for shading and protecting fine seed sown outdoors The figures show the sizes of the various parts and their proper relation for a frame to hold the standard 3x 6 ft. sash tw Ww Sanu 9a The compost of leaves and fresh horse manure, before going into the bed, must be turned over several times at intervals of a few days, to be got in condition for furnishing an even, lasting heat THE SOIL 71 would otherwise either run off and be lost altogether, or collect in the lower parts of the garden; and last, and most important, it enables the soil to retain mois- ture thus stored, as in a subterranean storage tank, but where the plants can draw upon it, long after carelessly prepared and shallow soils are burning up in the long protracted drouths which we seem to be increasingly certain of getting during the late summer. Prepare your garden deeply, thoroughly, care- fully, in addition to making it rich, and you may then turn to those more interesting operations out- lined in the succeeding pages, with the well founded assurance that your thought and labor will be re- warded by a garden so remarkably more successful than the average garden is, that all your extra pains- taking will be richly repaid, Part Two—Vegetables CHAPTER VIII. STARTING THE PLANTS HIS beautifully prepared garden spot—or rather the plant food in it—is to be trans- formed into good things for your table, through the ever wonderful agency of plant growth. The thread of life inhering in the tiniest seed, in the smallest plant, is the magic wand that may transmute the soil’s dull metal into the gold of flower and fruit. All the thought, care and expense described in the preceding chapters are but to get ready for the two things from which your garden is to spring, in ways so deeply hidden that centuries of the closest obser- vation have failed to reveal their inner workings. Those two are seeds and plants. (The sticklers for technical exactness will here take exception, calling our attention to tubers, bulbs, corms and numerous other taverns where plant life puts up over night, between growth and growth, but for our present purpose we need not mind them.) The plants which you put out in your garden will have been started under glass from seed, so that, in- (72) STARTING THE PLANTS 72 directly, everything depends on the seed. Good seeds, and true, you must have if your garden is to attain that highest success which should be our aim. Seeds vary greatly—very much more’so than the beginner has any conception of. There are three essentials ; if seeds fail in any one of them, they will be rendered next to useless. First, they must be true; selected from good types of stock and true to name; then they must have been good, strong, plump seeds, full of life and gathered from healthy plants; and finally, they must be fresh.* It is therefore of vital importance that you procure the best seeds that can be had, regardless of cost. Poor seeds are dear at any price; you cannot afford to accept them as a gift. It is, of course, impossible to give a rule by which to buy good seed, but the following sugges- tions will put you on the safe track. First, purchase only of some reliable mail-order house; do not be tempted, either by convenience or cheapness, to buy the gaily lithographed packets displayed in grocery and hardware stores at planting time—as a rule they are not reliable; and what you want for your good money is good seed, not cheap ink. Second, buy of seedsmen who make a point of growing and testing their own seed. Third, to begin with, buy from several houses and weed out to the one which proves, by actual results, to be the most reliable. Another *See table, page 8s. 74 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING good plan is to purchase seed of any particular va- riety from the firm that makes a leading specialty of it; in many cases these specialties have been intro- duced by these firms and they grow their own sup- plies of these seeds; they will also be surer of being true to name and type. Good plants are, in proportion to the amounts used, just as important as good seed—and of course you cannot afford losing weeks of garden useful- ness by growing entirely from seed sown out-doors. Beets, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, tomatoes, pep- pers, egg-plant, and for really efficient gardening, also onions, corn, melons, celery, lima beans, cucum- bers, and squash, will all begin their joyous journey toward the gardener’s table several weeks before they get into the garden at all. They will all be started under glass and have attained a good, thrifty, growing size before they are placed in the soil we have been so carefully preparing for them. It is next to impossible to describe a “good’’ vegetable plant, but he who gardens will come soon to distinguish between the healthy, short-jointed, deep-colored plant which is ready to take hold and grow, and the soft, flabby (or too succulent) drawn-up growth of plants which have been too much pampered, or dwarfed, weazened specimens which have been abused and starved; he will learn that a dozen of the former will yield more than fifty of the latter. How one home-owner solved the problem of securing an effective and unobtrusive place for raising seedlings in the early spring. Unfortunately, not many houses have a roof of this form, but perhaps there. is some other place about your own home in which you can build a garden under glass ainsodxd aATAInS jJouurd yey} sjur[d Japue} 19} -UIM 3y} YSNOIY} JdAO AlIvVd 0} pue IvaX AJIAI IWIWNS UO YWUOI B UTILS O} 2WULIFP[OI V JO Pog -JOY & aAKYy Pjnoys No ‘yaaz OS1xOS Jojd e AJataw JO ‘saide [eJaAvs JO auO st sdvJd ANOA JOYIOY AA, STARTING THE PLANTS 75 Plants may be bought of the florist or market gardener. If so, they should be personally selected, some time ahead, and gotten some few days before needed for setting out, so that you may be sure to have them properly “hardened off,” and in the right degree of moisture, for transplanting, as will be described later. By far the more satisfactory way, however, is to grow them yourself. You can then be sure of hav- ing the best of plants in exactly the quantities and varieties you want. They will also be on hand when conditions are just right for setting them out. For the ordinary garden, all the plants needed may be started successfully in hotbeds and cold- frames. The person who has had no experience with these has usually an exaggerated idea of their cost and of the skill required to manage them. The skill is not as much a matter of expert knowledge as of careful regular care, daily. Only a few minutes a day, for a few sash, but every day. The cost need be but little, especially if one is a bit handy with tools. The sash which serves for the cover, and is removable, is the important part of the structure. Sash may be had, ready glazed and painted, at from $2.50 to $3.50 each, and with care they will last ten or even twenty years, so you can see at once that not a very big increase in the yield of your garden will be required to pay interest on the investment. 76 HoMeE VEGETABLE GARDENING Or you can buy the sash unglazed, at a proportion- ately lower price, and put the glass in yourself, if you prefer to spend a little more time and less money. However, if you are not familiar with the work, and want only a few sash, I would advise purchasing the finished article. In size they are three feet by six. Frames upon which to put the sash covering may also be bought complete, but here there is a chance to save money by constructing your own frames—the materials required being 2 x 4 in. lumber for posts, and inch-boards; or better, if you can easily procure them, plank 2 x 12 in. So far as these materials go the hotbed and cold- frame are alike. he difference is that while the coldframe depends for its warmth upon catching and holding the heat of the sun’s rays, the hotbed is arti- ficially heated by fermenting manure, or in rare in- stances, by hot water or steam pipes. In constructing the hotbed there are two methods used; either by placing the frames on top of the ma- nure heap or by putting the manure within the frames. The first method has the advantage of per- mitting the hotbed to be made upon frozen ground, when required in the spring. The latter, which is the better, must be built before the ground freezes, but is more economical of manure. The manure in either case should be that of grain-fed horses, and if a small amount of straw bedding, or leaves—not STARTING THE PLANTS ay more, however, than one-third of the latter—be mixed among it, so much the better. Get this ma- nure several days ahead of the time wanted for use and prepare by stacking in a compact, tramped- down heap. Turn it over after three or four days, and re-stack, being careful to put the former top and sides of the pile now on the inside. Having now ready the heating apparatus and the superstructure of our miniature greenhouse, the building of it isa very simple matter. If the ground is frozen, spread the manure in a low, flat heap— nine or ten feet side, a foot and a half deep, and as long as the number of sash to be used demands—a cord of manure thus furnishing a bed for about three sash, not counting for the ends of the string or row. This heap should be well trodden down and upon it should be placed or built the box or frame upon which the sash are to rest. In using this method it will be more convenient to have the frame made up beforehand and ready to place upon the manure, as shown in one of the illustrations. This should be at least twelve inches high at the front and some half a foot higher at the back. Fill in with at least four inches—better six—of good gar- den soil containing plenty of humus, that it may allow water to soak through readily. The other method is to construct the frames on the ground before severe freezing, and in this case 78 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING the front should be at least twenty-four inches high, part of which—not more than half—may be below the ground level. The 2x 12 in. planks, when used, are handled as follows: stakes are driven in to support the back plank some two or three inches above the ground—which should, of course, be level. The front plank is sunk two or three inches into the ground and held upright by stakes on the outside, nailed on. Remove enough dirt from inside the frame to bank up the planks about halfway on the outside. When this banking has frozen to a depth of two or three inches, cover with rough ma- nure or litter to keep frost from striking through. The manure for heating should be prepared as above and put in to the depth of a foot, trodden down, first removing four to six inches of soil to be put back on top of the manure,—a cord of the latter, in this case, serving seven sashes. The vegetable to be grown, and the season and climate, will determine the depth of manure required—it will be from one to two feet,—the latter depth seldom being necessary. It must not be overlooked that this manure, when spent for heating purposes, is still as good as ever to enrich the garden, so that the expense of putting it in and removing it from the frames is all that you can fairly charge up against your experiment with hotbeds, if you are interested to know whether they teally pay. STARTING THE PLANTS 79 The exposure for the hotbeds should be where the sun will strike most directly and where they will be sheltered from the north. Put up a fence of rough boards, five or six feet high, or place the frames south of some building. The coldframe is constructed practically as in the hotbed, except that if manure is used at all it is for the purpose of enriching the soil where lettuce, rad- ishes, cucumbers or other crops are to be grown to maturity in it. If one can put up even a very small frame green- house, such as illustrated facing page 3, it will be a Splendid investment both for profit and for pleas- ure. The cost is lower than is generally imagined, where one is content with a home-made structure. Look into it. PREPARING THE SOIL All this may seem like a lot of trouble to go to for such a small thing as a packet of seed. In reality it is not nearly so much trouble as it sounds, and then, too, this is for the first season only, a well built frame lasting for years—forever, if you want to take a little more time and make it of concrete in- stead of boards. But now that the frame is made, how to use it is _ the next question. The first consideration must be the soil. It should be rich, light, friable. There are some garden loams 80 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING that will do well just as taken up, but as a rule better results will be obtained where the soil is made up specially as follows: rotted sods two parts, old rotted manure one part, and enough coarse sand added to make the mixture fine and crumbly, so that, even when moist, it will fall apart when pressed into a ball in the hand. Such soil is best prepared by cut- ting out sod, in the summer, where the grass is green and thick, indicating a rich soil. Along old fences or the roadside where the wash has settled will be good places to get limited quantities. Those should be cut with considerable soil and stacked, grassy sides together, in layers in a compost pile. If the season proves very dry, occasionally soak the heap through. In late fall put in the cellar, or wherever solid freezing will not take place, enough to serve for spring work under glass. The amount can read- ily be calculated ; soil for three sash, four inches deep, for instance, would take eighteen feet or a pile three feet square and two feet high. The fine ma- nure (and sand, if necessary) may be added in the fall or when using in the spring. Here again it may seem to the amateur that unnecessary pains are being taken. I can but repeat what has been sug- gested all through these pages, that it will require but little more work to do the thing the best way as long as one is doing it at all, and the results will be not only better, but practically certain—and that STARTING THE PLANTS 81 is a tremendously important point about all garden- ing operations. SOWING THE SEED Having now our frames provided and our soil composed properly and good strong tested seed on hand, we are prepared to go about the business of growing our plants with a practical certainty of success—a much more comfortable feeling than if, because something or other had been but half done, we must anxiously await results and the chances of having the work we had put into the thing go, after all, for nothing. The seed may be sown either directly in the soil or in “flats.” Flats are made as follows: Get from your grocer a number of cracker boxes, with the tops. Saw the boxes lengthwise into sections, a few two inches deep and the rest three. One box will make four or five such sections, for two of which bottoms will be furnished by the bottom and top of the original box. Another box of the same size, knocked apart, will furnish six bottoms more to use for the sections cut from the middle of the box. The bottoms of all, if tight, should have, say, five three- quarter-inch holes bored in them to allow any sur- plus water to drain off from the soil. The shallow flats may be used for starting the seed and the three- inch ones for transplanting. Where sowing but a 6 82 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING small quantity of each variety of seed, the flats will be found much more convenient than sowing directly in the soil—and in the case of their use, of course, the soil on top of the manure need be but two or three inches deep and not especially prepared. Where the seed is to go directly into the frames, the soil described above is, of course, used. But when in flats, to be again transplanted, the soil for the first sowing will be better for having no manure in it, the idea being to get the hardest, stockiest growth possible. Soil for the flats in which the seeds are to be planted should be, if possible, one part sod, one part chip dirt or leaf mould, and one part sand. The usual way of handling the seed flats is to fill each about one-third full of rough material—screen- ings, small cinders or something similar—and then fill the box with the prepared earth, which should first be finely sifted. This, after the seeds are sown, should be copiously watered—with a fine rose spray, or if one has not such, through a folded bag, as illus- trated facing page 55, to prevent the washing of the soil. Here is another way which I have used recently and, so far, with one hundred per cent. certainty of results. Last fall, when every bit of soil about my place was ash dry, and I had occasion to start im- mediately some seeds that were late in reaching me, A coldframe need by no means be an unsightly garden accessory. his frame is tucked away in a southeastern angle of the house itt A flat of cabbage just breaking ground. If the soil is crusted and makes “tents,” break it through by watering Cabbage almost ready for transplanting. The first leaves are just showing STARTING THE PLANTS 83 my necessity mothered the following invention, an adaptation of the principle of sub-irrigation. To have filled the flats in the ordinary way would not have done, as it would have been impossible ever to wet the soil through without making a solid mud cake of it, in which seeds would have stood about as good a chance of doing anything as.though not wa- tered at all. I filled the flats one-third full of sphagnum moss, which was soaked, then to within half an inch of the top with soil, which was likewise soaked, and did not look particularly inviting. The flats were then filled level-full of the dust-dry soil, planted, and put in partial shade. Within half a day the surface soil had come to just the right degree of moisture, soaked up from below, and there was in a few days more a perfect stand of seedlings. I have used this method in starting all my seedlings this spring—some forty thousand, so far—only using soil screenings, mostly small pieces of decayed sod, in place of the moss and giving a very light watering in the surface to make it compact and to swell the seed at once. Two such flats are shown facing p. 86, just ready to transplant. The seed- lings illustrated in the upper flat had received just two waterings since being planted. Where several hundred or more plants of each variety are wanted, sow the seed broadcast as evenly as possible and fairly thick—one ounce of cabbage, &4 Home V&GETABLE GARDENING for instance, to three to five 13 x 19 inch flats. If but a few dozen, or a hundred, are wanted, sow in rows two or three inches apart, being careful to label each correctly. Before sowing, the soil should be pressed firmly into the corners of the flats and leveled off perfectly smooth with a piece of board or shingle. Press the seed evenly into the soil with a flat piece of board, cover it lightly, one-eighth to one-quarter inch, with sifted soil, press down barely enough to make smooth, and water with a very fine spray, or through burlap. For the next two days the flats can go on a pretty hot surface, if one is available, such as hot water or steam pipes, or top of a boiler, but if these are not convenient, directly into the frame, where the tem- perature should be kept as near as possible to that indicated in the table on the next page. In from two to twelve days, according to tempera- ture and variety, the little seedlings will begin to appear. In case the soil has not been made quite friable enough, they will sometimes ‘‘raise the roof” instead of breaking through. If so, see that the surface is broken up at once, with the fingers and a careful watering, as otherwise many of the little plants may become bent and lanky in a very short time. From now on until they are ready to transplant, a period of some three or four weeks, is the time when STARTING THE PLANTS 85 they will most readily be injured by neglect. There are things you will have to look out for, and your VEGETABLE Date To Sow Pee He ee (aBouT) Beets ...... Feb. 15—-Apr. 1 5 years Broccali ....| Feb. 15—Apr. 1 gfe Brussels Sorouts Feb. 15-Apr. 1 wares 55 degrees Cabbage ....| Feb. 1-Apr. 1 pes Cauliflower ..| Feb. 1-Apr. 1 ye os Celery ...... Feb. 15-Apr. 1 Seuss 50 cE Corn si2eees Apr. 1-May 1 a ts 65 ss Cucumber. ..| Mar. 15-May 1] 10 ‘“ 15 i Egg-plant...) Mar. 1-Apr. 15 iris fae 75 bbe Kohlrabi....| Mar. 1-Apr. 1 a 55 ne Lettuce .....] Feb. 15-Apr. 1 Gi. 7st 55 - Melon, musk.| Apr. 1-May 1 aS age 75 ee Melon, water | Apr. 1-May 1 ge 75 es Okraiacs axl] pamayjs MOIS 0} IJdISvda Sutaq Sapisaq ‘IOAeyY pue oq Aeur sqii-prur a}yYyM ayy “yoeutds jsoaq ssoulapus} Ul aseqqed ueYyy Jaijoq Ie} aie ay} St Jaq PdeYyD ssIMS dUYA\ Poqqii-s8ieT speay Aut} ay} {synoids sjassnig yYyWeyleq Fas CHAPTER XII BEST VARIETIES OF THE GARDEN VEGETABLES T is my purpose in this chapter to assist the gardener of limited experience to select varie- ties sure to give satisfaction. To the man or woman planning a garden for the first time there is no one thing more confusing than the selection of the best varieties. This in spite of the fact that catalogues should be, and might be, a great help instead of almost an actual hindrance. I suppose that seedsmen consider extravagance in catalogues, both in material and language, necessary, or they would not go to the limit in expense for printing and mailing, as they do. But from the point of view of the gardener, and especially of the beginner, it is to be regretted that we cannot have the plain unvarnished truth about varieties, for surely the good ones are good enough to use up all the legitimate adjectives upon which seedsmen would care to pay postage. But such is not the case. Every season sees the introduction of literally hun- dreds of new varieties—or, as is more often the case, (141) 142 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING old varieties under new names—which have actually no excuse for being unloaded upon the public except that they will give a larger profit to the seller. Of course, in a way, it is the fault of the public for pay- ing the fancy prices asked—that is, that part of the public which does not know. Commercial planters and experienced gardeners stick to well known sorts. New varieties are tried, if at all, by the packet only —and then ‘‘on suspicion.” In practically every instance the varieties men- tioned have been grown by the author, but his re- commendations are by no means based upon personal experience alone. Wherever introductions of recent years have proved to be actual improvements upon older varieties, they are given in preference to the old, which are, of course, naturally much better known. It is impossible for any person to pick out this, that or the other variety of a vegetable and label it unconditionally ‘‘the best.” But the person who wants to save time in making out his seed list can depend upon the following to have been widely tested, and to have “made good.” Asparagus:—While there are enthusiastic claims put forth for several of the different varieties of asparagus, as far as I have seen any authentic rec- ord of tests (Bulletin 173, N. J. Agr. Exp. Station), the prize goes to Palmetto, which gave twenty-eight VEGETABLE VARIETIES 143 per cent. more than its nearest rival, Donald’s EI- mira. Big yield alone is frequently no recommen- dation of a vegetable to the home gardener, but in this instance it does make a big difference; first, be- cause Palmetto is equal to any other asparagus in quality, and second, because the asparagus bed is producing only a few weeks during the gardening season, and where ground is limited, as in most home gardens, it is important to cut this waste space down as much as possible. This is for beds kept in good shape and highly fed. Barr’s Mammoth will probably prove more satisfactory if the bed is apt to be more or less neglected, for the reason that under such circumstances it will make thicker stalks than the Palmetto. Beans (dwarf) :—Of the dwarf beans there are three general types: the early round-podded “string” beans, the stringless round-pods, and the usually more flattish “wax” beans. For first early, the old reliable Extra Early Red Valentine remains as good as any sort I have ever tried. In good strains of this variety the pods have very slight strings, and - they are very fleshy. It makes only a small bush and is fairly productive and of good quality. The care-taking planter, however, will put in only enough of these first early beans to last a week or ten days, as the later sorts are more prolific and of better qual- ity. Burpee’s Stringless Greenpod is a good second 144. HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING early. It is larger, finer, stringless even when ma- ture, and of exceptionally handsome appearance. Im- proved Refugee is the most prolific of the green- pods, and the best of them for quality, but with slight strings. Of the “wax” type, Brittle Wax is the earliest, and also a tremendous yielder. The long-time favorite, Rust-proof Golden Wax, 1s an- other fine sort, and an especially strong healthy grower. The top-notch in quality among all bush beans is reached, perhaps, in Burpee’s White Wax —the white referring not to the pods, which are of a light yellow, and flat—but to the beans, which are pure white in all stages of growth. It has one un- usual and extremely valuable quality—the pods re- main tender longer than those of any other sort. Of the dwarf limas there is a new variety which is destined, I think, to become the leader of the half-dozen other good sorts to be had. That is the Burpee Improved. The name is rather misleading, as it is not an improved strain of the Dreer’s or Kumerle bush lima, but a mutation, now thoroughly fixed. The bushes are stronger-growing and much larger than those of the older types, reaching a height of nearly three feet, standing strongly erect; both pods and beans are much larger, and it is a week earlier. Henderson’s new Early Giant I have not yet tried, but from the description I should say it is the same type as the above. Of the pole limas, the new Giant-podded is the hardiest—an important VEGETABLE VARIETIES 145 point in limas, which are a little delicate in consti- tution anyway, especially in the seedling stage—and the biggest yielder of any I have grown and just as good in quality—and there is no vegetable much better than well cooked limas. With me, also, it has proved as early as that old standard, Early Levia- than, but this may have been a chance occurrence. Ford’s Mammoth is another excellent pole lima of large size. Of the other pole beans, the two that are still my favorites are Kentucky Wonder, or Old Homestead, and Golden Cluster. The former has fat meaty green pods, entirely stringless until nearly mature, and of enormous length. J have measured many over eight and a half inches long—and they are borne in great profusion. Golden Cluster is one of the handsomest beans I know. It is happily named, for the pods, of a beautiful rich golden yellow color, hang in generous clusters and great profusion. In quality it has no superior; it has always been a great favorite with my customers. One need never fear having too many of these, as the dried beans are pure white and splendid for winter use. Last season I tried a new pole bean called Burger’s Green- pod Stringless or White-seeded Kentucky Wonder (the dried seeds of the old sort being brown). It did well, but was in so dry a place that I could not tell whether it was an improvement over the stand- ard or not. It is claimed to be earlier. 10 146 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING Beets:—In beets, varieties are almost endless, but I confess that I have found no visible difference in many cases. Edmund’s Early and Early Model are good for first crops. The Egyptian strains, though largely used for market, have never been as good in quality with me. For the main crop I like Crimson Globe. In time it is a second early, of remarkably good form, smooth skin and fine quality and color. Broccoli:—This vegetable is a poorer cousin of the cauliflower (which, by the way, has been termed “only a cabbage with a college education’’). It is of little use where cauliflower can be grown, but serves as a substitute in northern sections, as it is more hardy than that vegetable. Early White French is the standard sort. Brussels sprouts:—This vegetable, in my opin- ion, is altogether too little grown. It is as easy to grow as fall and winter cabbage, and while the yield is less, the quality is so much superior that for the home garden it certainly should be a favorite. To- day (Jan. 19th) we had for dinner sprouts from a few old plants that had been left in transplanting boxes in an open coldframe. These had been out all winter—with no protection, repeatedly freezing and thawing, and, while of course small, they were bet- ter in quality than any cabbage you ever ate. Dal- keith is the best dwarf-growing sort. Danish Prize VEGETABLE VARIETIES 147 is a new sort, giving a much heavier yield than the older types. I have tried it only one year, but should say it will become the standard variety. Cabbage:—In cabbages, too, there is an endless mix-up of varieties. The Jersey Wakefield still re- mains the standard early. But it is at the best but a few days ahead of the flat-headed early sorts which stand much longer without breaking, so that for the home garden a very few heads will do. Glory of Enkhuisen is a new early sort that has become a great favorite. Early Summer and Succession are good to follow these, and Danish Ballhead is the best quality winter cabbage, and unsurpassed for keep- ing qualities. But for the home garden the Savoy type is, to my mind, far and away the best. It is not in the same class with the ordinary sorts at all. Per- fection Drumhead Savoy is the best variety. Of the red cabbages, Mammoth Rock is the standard. Carrots:—The carrots are more restricted as to number of varieties. Golden Ball is the earliest of them all, but also the smallest yielder. Early Scarlet Horn is the standard early, being a better yielder than the above. The Danvers Half-long is probably grown more than all other kinds together. It grows to a length of about six inches, a very attractive deep orange in color. Where the garden soil is not in excellent condition, and thoroughly fined and pulverized as it should be, the shorter-growing kinds, 148 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING Oxheart and Chantenay, will give better satisfaction. If there is any choice in quality, I should award it to Chantenay. Cauliflower:—There is hardly a seed catalogue which does not contain its own special brand of the very best and earliest cauliflower ever introduced. These are for the most part selected strains of either the old favorite, Henderson’s Snowball, or the old Early Dwarf Erfurt. Snowball, and Burpee’s Best Early, which resembles it, are the best varieties I have ever grown for spring or autumn. They are more likely to head, and of much finer quality than any of the large late sorts. Where climatic condi- tions are not favorable to growing cauliflower, and in dry sections, Dry-weather is the most certain to form heads. Celery:—For the home garden the dwarf-grow- ing, “self-blanching” varieties of celery are much to be preferred. White Plume and Golden Self-blanch- ing are the best. The former is the earliest celery and of excellent quality, but not a good keeper. Re- cent introductions in celery have proved very real improvements. Perhaps the best of the newer sorts, for home use, is Winter Queen, as it is more readily handled than some of the standard market sorts. In quality it has no superior. When put away for win- ter properly, it will keep through April. Corn:—You will have to suit yourself about corn. he I Sh tanita pi ere aA - Sow kale for use in fall and winter when greens are scarce. Frost only improves it Seedlings of Prizetaker onions, started in com- post covered with one inch of sand. The large onions are from previous year’s crop, started in the same way. They were prize-takers at several local fairs spunod 9214} paysiam syeys AjativA poos & st dy, aajam} JO Youn siyy ‘atayMAIIAD IOATT UO sey stiveg ‘a0n}a[-pvey Jejnse1 jo sysos yey} AjdiIeA Mau e—snseiedse [Inajuas1y youes.y P[O 24} ULY} JOALY e1OUI sey adn}e] SoD cs 3 cu | VEGETABLE VARIETIES 149 I have not the temerity to name any best varieties— every seedsman has about half a dozen that are ab- solutely unequaled. For home use, I have cut my list down to three: Golden Bantam, a dwarf-grow- ing early of extraordinary hardiness—can be planted earlier than any other sort and, while the ears are small and with yellow kernels, it is exceptionally sweet and fine in flavor. This novelty of a few years since, has attained wide popular favor as quickly as any vegetable I know. Seymour’s Sweet Orange is a new variety, somewhat similar to Golden Ban- tam, but later and larger, of equally fine quality. White Evergreen, a perfected strain of Stowell’s Evergreen, a standard favorite for years, is the third. It stays tender longer than any other sweet corn I have ever grown. Cucumbers:—Of cucumbers also there is a long and varied list of names. The old Extra Early White Spine is still the best early ; for the main crop, some “perfected” form of White Spine. I myself like the Fordhood Famous, as it is the healthiest strain I ever grew, and has very large fruit that stays green, while being of fine quality. In the last few years the Davis Perfect has won great popular- ity, and deservedly so. Many seedsmen predict that this is destined to become the leading standard— and where seedsmen agree let us prick up our ears! It has done very well with me, the fruit being the 150 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING handsomest of any I have grown. If it proves as strong a grower it will replace Fordhood Famous with me. Egg-plant:—New York Improved Purple is still the standard, but it has been to a large extent re- placed by Black Beauty, which has the merit of being ten days earlier and a more handsome fruit. When once tried it will very likely be the only sort grown. Endive :—This is a substitute for lettuce for which I personally have never cared. It is largely used commercially. Broad-leaved Batavian is a good va- riety. Giant Fringed is the largest . Kale:—Kale is a foreigner which has never been very popular in this country. Dwarf Scott Curled is the tenderest and most delicate (or least coarse) in flavor. Kohlrabi:—This peculiar mongrel should be bet- ter known. It looks as though a turnip had started to climb into the cabbage class and stopped half-way. When gathered young, not more than an inch and a half in diameter at the most, they are quite nice and tender. They are of the easiest cultivation. White Vienna is the best. Leek :—For those who like this sort of thing it is —just the sort of thing they like. American Flag is the best variety, but why it was given the first part of that name, I do not know. Defender is one of the Eden Gem is a favorite k best colored-flesh mid- variety of the green- season varieties flesh sorts Zs ‘ a Muskmelons of this sort-—Muskmelons of all sorts are susceptible to disease. Spray early to save crops do1d a}8] 10} poos st advsCQ Ajaried Ysopy -u9013 ay} FO Uopauysnur aye] poos e st Joiedng eyL uojaut ‘puno1r {yews e st yonbueg ee ay uwostos-prt Apaarjereduros — VEGETABLE VARIETIES 151 Lettuce:—To cover the lettuces thoroughly would take a chapter by itself. For lack of space, I shall have to mention only a few varieties, although there are many others as good and suited to different purposes. For quality, I put Mignonette at the top of the list, but it makes very small heads. Grand Rapids is the best loose-head sort—fine for under glass, in frames and early outdoors. Last fall from a bench 4o x 4 ft., I sold $36 worth in one crop, besides some used at home. I could not sell winter head lettuce to customers who had once had this sort, so good was its quality. May King and Big Boston are the best outdoor spring and early sum- mer sorts. New York and Deacon are the best solid cabbage-head types for resisting summer heat, and long standing. Of the cos type Paris White is good. Muskmelon:—The varieties of muskmelon are also without limit. I mention but two—which have given good satisfaction out of a large number tried, in my own experience. Netted Gem (known as Rocky Ford) for a green-fleshed type, and Emerald Gem for salmon-fleshed. There are a number of newer varieties, such as Hoodoo, Miller’s Cream, Montreal, Nutmeg, etc., all of excellent quality. Watermelon :—With me (in Connecticut) the sea- sons are a little short for this fruit. Cole’s Early and Sweetheart have made the best showing. Hal- bert Honey is the best for quality . 152 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING Okra:—In cool sections the Perfected Perkins does best, but it is not quite so good in quality as the southern favorite, White Velvet. The flowers and plants of this vegetable are very ornamental. Onion:—For some unknown reason, different seedsmen call the same onion by the same name. I have never found any explanation of this, except that a good many onions given different names in the catalogues are really the same thing. At least they grade into each other more than -other vege- tables. With me Prizetaker is the only sort now grown in quantity, as I have found it to outyield all other yellows, and to be a good keeper. It is a little milder in quality than the American yellows—Dan- vers and Southport Globe. When started under glass and transplanted out in April, it attains the size and the quality of the large Spanish onions of which it is a descendant. Weathersfield Red is the stand- ard flat red, but not quite so good in quality or for keeping as Southport Red Globe. Of the whites T like best Mammoth Silver-skin. It is ready early and the finest in quality, to my taste, of all the onions, but not a good keeper. Ailsa Craig, a new English sort now listed in several American cata- logues, is the best to grow for extra fancy onions, especially for exhibiting; it should be started in February or March under glass. Parsley :—Emerald is a large-growing, beautifully VEGETABLE VARIETIES 153 colored and mild-flavored sort, well worthy of adoption. Parsnip :—This vegetable is especially valuable be- cause it may be had at perfection when other vegeta- bles are scarce. Hollow Crown (“Improved,” of course!) is the best. _ Peas:—Peas are worse than corn. You will find enough exclamation points in the pea sections of cat- alogues to train the vines on. If you want to escape brain-fag and still have as good as the best, if not better, plant Gradus (or Prosperity) for early and second early; Boston Unrivaled (an improved form of Telephone) for main crop, and Gradus for au- tumn. These two peas are good yielders, free grow- ers and of really wonderfully fine quality. They need bushing, but I have never found a variety of decent quality that does not. Pepper:—Ruby King is the standard, large, red, mild pepper, and as good as any. Chinese Giant is a newer sort, larger but later. The flesh is extreme- ly thick and mild. On account of this quality, it will have a wider range of use than the older sorts. Pumpkins:—The old Large Cheese, and the newer Quaker Pie, are as prolific, hardy and fine in quality and sweetness as any. Potato :—Bovee is a good early garden sort, but without the best of culture is very small. Irish Cob- bler is a good early white. Green Mountain is a 154 HomE VEGETABLE GARDENING universal favorite for main crop in the East—a sure yielder and heavy-crop potato of excellent quality. Uncle Sam is the best quality potato I ever grew. Baked, they taste almost as rich as chestnuts. Radish:—I do not care to say much about rad- ishes; I do not like them. They are, however, uni- versal favorites. They come round, half-long, long and tapering; white, red, white-tipped, crimson, rose, yellow-brown and black; and from the size of a button to over a foot long by fifteen inches in circumference—the latter being the new Chinese or Celestial. So you can imagine what a revel of va- rieties the seedsmen may indulge in. I have tried many—and cut my own list down to two, Rapid- red (probably an improvement of the old standard, Scarlet Button), and Crimson Globe (or Giant), a big, rapid, healthy grower of good quality, and one that does not get “corky.” A little land-plaster, or gypsum, worked into the soil at time of planting, will add to both appearance and quality in radishes. Spinach:—The best variety of spinach is Swiss Chard Beet (see below). If you want the real sort, use Long Season, which will give you cuttings long after other sorts have run to seed. New Zealand will stand more heat than any other sort. Victoria is a newer variety, for which the claim of best qual- ity is made. In my own trial I could not notice very much difference. It has, however, thicker and “sa- yoyed” leaves, Ajatrea 4soq ay} st Bept [10s ay} OJUT Iaqse{d URITIOUTY “WOIUO ay} 0} SUISNOD ysIy ‘sysa7J purl a] & AJOAA ‘soysipes ao1-se-dsti5 Mammoth Santlwich Is- Black radishes. They land salsify, the vege- come also in red, white, table oyster, is a deli- scarlet, yellow and com- cious root vegetable bination colors VEGETABLE VARIETIES 155 Salsify:—This is, to my taste, the most delicious of all root vegetables. It will not do well in soil not deep and finely pulverized, but a row or two for home use can be had by digging and fining before sowing the seed. It is worth extra work. Mam- moth Sandwich is the best variety. Squash :—Of this fine vegetable there are no bet- ter sorts for the home garden than the little Delicata, and Fordhook. Vegetable Marrow is a fine English sort that does well in almost all localities. The best of the newer large-vined sorts is The Delicious. It is of finer quality than the well known Hubbard. For earliest use, try a few plants of White or Yellow Bush Scalloped. They are not so good in quality as either Delicata or Fordhook, which are ready within a week or so later. The latter are also excellent keepers and can be had, by starting plants early and by careful storing, almost from June to June. Tomato:—If you have a really hated enemy, give him a dozen seed catalogues and ask him to select for you the best four tomatoes. But unless you want to become criminally involved, send his doctor around the next morning. A few years ago I tried over forty kinds. A good many have been intro- duced since, some of which I have tried. I am pre- pared to make the following statements: Earliana is the earliest quality tomato, for light warm soils, that I have ever grown; Chalk’s Jewel, the earliest for 156 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING heavier soils (Bonny Best Early resembles it); Matchless is a splendid main-crop sort ; Ponderosa is the biggest and best quality—but it likes to split. There is one more sort, which I have tried one year only, so do not accept my opinion as conclusive. It is the result of a cross between Ponderosa and Dwarf Champion—one of the strongest-growing sorts. It is called Dwarf Giant. The fruits are tre- mendous in size and in quality unsurpassed by any. The vine is very healthy, strong and stocky. I be- lieve this new tomato will become the standard main crop for the home garden. By all means try it. And that is a good deal to say for a novelty in its sec- ond year! Turnip:—The earliest turnip of good quality is the White Milan. There are several others of the white-fleshed sorts, but I have never found them equal in quality for table to the yellow sorts. Of these, Golden Ball (or Orange Jelly) is the best quality. Petrowski is a different and distinct sort, of very early maturity and of especially fine quality. If you have room for but one sort in your home garden, plant this for early, and a month later for main crop. Do not fail to try some of this year’s novelties. Half the fun of gardening is in the experimenting. But when you are testing out the new things in comparison with the old, just take a few plants of i VEGETABLE VARIETIES 157 the latter and give them the same extra care and attention. Very often the reputation of a novelty is built upon the fact that in growing it on trial the gardener has given it unusual care and the best soil and location at his command. Be fair to the stand- ards—and very often they will surprise you fully as much as the novelties. CHAPTER XIII INSECTS AND DISEASES AND METHODS OF FIGHTING THEM than the more usual one, “‘remedies,’’ because by both experience and study I am more and more convinced that so long as the commercial fields of agriculture remain in the present absolutely unorganized condition, and so long as the gardener —home or otherwise—who cares to be neglectful and thus become a breeder of all sorts of plant pests, is allowed so to do—just so long we can achieve no remedy worth the name. When speaking of a remedy in this connection we very frequently are putting the cart before the horse, and refer to some means of prevention. Prevention is not only the best, but often the only cure. This the gardener should always remember. This subject of plant enemies has not yet received the attention from scientific investigators which other branches of horticulture have, and it is alto- gether somewhat complicated. (158) I USE the term “methods of fighting’ rather INSECTS AND DISEASES 159 Before taking up the various insects and diseases the following analysis and list will enable the reader to get a general comprehension of the whole matter. Plant enemies are of two kinds—(1) insects, and (2) diseases. The former are of two kinds, (a) insects which chew or eat the leaves or fruit; (b) in- sects which suck the juices therefrom. The diseases also are of two kinds—(a) those which result from the attack of some fungus, or germ; (b) those which attack the whole organism of the plant and are termed “constitutional.” Concerning these latter practically nothing is known. It will be seen at once, of course, that the remedy to be used must depend upon the nature of the enemy to be fought. We can therefore reduce the matter to a simple classification, as follows: PLANT ENEMIES Insects Class Patines 22g ction Od eons a Sucking wis cewsanies ovine b Diseases Parasttical accicekvoswwawes c Constitutional ............ d 160 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING REMEDIES Mechanical Number Covered boxes .......... I Collatsvcnc civ reseies saree 2 Gardss ire ok tek Bekeeis seers 3 Destructive Hand-picking ........... 4 Kerosene emulsion ....... 5 Whale-oil soap .......... 6 Miscible oils ............ 7 Tobacco dust ..........- 8 Carbolic acid emulsion.... 9 Corrosive sublimate ..... 10 Bordeaux mixture ....... II Poisonous Paris green ..........05- 12 Arsenate of lead ......... 13 Hellebore .............. 14 It will be of some assistance, particularly as re- gards quick reference, to give the following table, which shows at a glance the method of fighting any enemy, the presence of which is known or antici- pated. While this may seem quite a formidable list, in practice many of these pests will not appear, and under ordinary circumstances the following six remedies out of those mentioned will suffice to keep them all in check, if used in time: Covered boxes, INsEcts AND DISEASES 161 hand-picking, kerosene emulsion, tobacco dust, Bor- deaux mixture, arsenate of lead. ENEMY ATTACKING Crass REMEDY Aphis (Plant-lice).| Cabbage and other ere ore cially under glass. . : b 5, 8, 6 Asparagus-beetle. .| Asparagus. ............-20+006 a 13,12 Asparagus rust ...] Asparagus. ............-000-- c Ir Black-rot........ Cabbage and the cabbage group.. d Io Borers. 12.2.4 e000 SaQuashs ssc ansseccredeseeses b 4 Caterpillars ......| Cabbage group................ a 12,14, 4 Caterpillars ...... CDOMA CO Vries loie: oc a0.o.ciastereninees¥anesed a 4 Club-root ....... Cabbage group..............-. c (page 163) Cucumber-beetle (Striped beetle)] Cucumber and vines............ a 1, 11,8 Cucumber-wilt ...{ Cucumber and vines.. a c 1r Cucumber-blight. .| Cucumber, muskmelon, cabbage. c Ir Cut-worm........ Cabbage, tomato, onion. oe a 2, 4,12, 13 Flea-beetle....... Potato, turnip, radish.......... a 1,5 Potato-beetle..... Potato and See Bess Mae, rt a 12,13,4 Potato-blight..... Potato. . LEN oalo ne oe won c 11 Potato-scab ..... Potato (tubers). bea Ae ca raorsaent ote caiens c to Root-maggot.....| Radish, onion, cabbage, melons..| a 43,9 Squash-bug...... ‘| Squash, pumpkin.............. b 4, 8,12, § White-fly........ Plants; cucumber, tomato...... b 6, 5,8 White-grub ...... Plants: vasind se Sou hea aie Cas Sees a 4 However, that the home gardener may be pre- pared to meet any contingency, I shall take up in brief detail the plant enemies mentioned and the remedies suggested. Aphis:—The small, soft green plant-lice. They seldom attack healthy growing plants in the field, but are hard to keep off under glass. If once estab- 11 162 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING lished it will take several applications to get rid of them. Use kerosene or soap emulsion, or tobacco dust. There are also several trade-marked prepara- tions that are good. Aphine, which may be had of any seed house, has proved very effective in my own work, and it is the pleasantest to use that I have so far found. Asparagus-beetle:—This pest will give little trou- ble on cleanly cultivated patches. Thorough work with arsenate of lead (1 to 25) will take care of it. Black-rot:—This affects the cabbage group, pre- venting heading, by falling of the leaves. In clean, thoroughly limed soil, with proper rotations, it is not likely to appear. The seed may be soaked, in cases where the disease has appeared previously, for fifteeen minutes in a pint of water in which one of the corrosive sublimate tablets which are sold at drug stores is dissolved. Borers:—This borer is a flattish, white grub, which penetrates the main stem of squash or other vines near the ground and seems to sap the strength of the plant, even when the vines have attained a length of ten feet or more. His presence is first made evident by the wilting of the leaves during the noonday heat. Coal ashes mixed with the ma- nure in the hill, is claimed to be a preventative. An- other is to plant some early squash between the hills prepared for the winter crop, and not to plant INSECTS AND DISEASES 163 the latter until as late as possible. The early squash vines, which act as a trap, are pulled and burned. Last season almost half the vines in one of my pieces were attacked after many of the squashes were large enough to eat. With a little practice I was able to locate the borer’s exact position, shown by a spot in the stalk where the flesh was soft, and of a slightly different color. With a thin, sharp knife-blade the vines were carefully slit lengthwise on this spot, the borer extracted and killed and the vines in almost every instance speedily recovered. ‘Another method is to root the vines by heaping moist earth over several of the leaf joints, when the vines have attained sufficient length. Cabbage-caterpillar:—This small green worm, which hatches upon the leaves and in the forming heads of cabbage and other vegetables of the cab- bage group, comes from the eggs laid by the com- mon white or yellow butterfly of early spring. Pick off all that are visible, and spray with kerosene emul-. sion if the heads have not begun to form. If they have, use hellebore instead. The caterpillar or worm of tomatoes is a large green voracious one, men- tioned on page 139. Hand-picking is the only rem- edy. Club-root:—This is a parasitical disease attacking the cabbage group, especially in ground where these crops succeed each other. Lime both soil and seed- 164 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING bed—at least the fall before planting, unless using a special agricultural lime. The crop infested is some- times carried through by giving a special dressing of nitrate of soda, guano or other quick-acting pow- erful fertilizer, and hilled high with moist earth, thus giving a special stimulation and encouraging the formation of new roots. While this does not in any way cure the diseasé¢, it helps the crop to withstand its attack. When planting again be sure to use crop rotation and to set plants not grown in infested soil. Cucumber-beetle:—This is the small, black-and- yellow-striped beetle which attacks cucumbers and other vines and, as it multiplies rapidly and does a great deal of damage before the results show, they must be attended to immediately upon appearance. The vine should be protected with screens until they crowd the frames, which should be put in place be- fore the beetles put in an appearance. If the beetles are still in evidence when the vines get so large that the screens must be removed, keep sprayed with Bor- deaux mixture. Plaster, or fine ashes, sifted on the vines will also keep them off to some extent, by keep- ing the leaves covered. Cucumber-wilt:—This condition accompanies the presence of the striped beetle, although supposed not to be directly caused by it. The only remedy is to get rid of the beetles as above, ard to collect and burn every wilted leaf or plant. INSECTS AND DISEASES 165 Cucumber-blight or Mildew is similar to that which attacks muskmelons, the leaves turning yel- low, dying in spots and finally drying up altogether. Where there is reason to fear an attack of this dis- ease, or upon the first appearance, spray thoroughly with Bordeaux, 5-5-50, and repeat every ten days or so. The spraying seems to be more effective on cucumbers than on melons. Cut-worm:—The cut-worm is perhaps the most annoying of all garden pests. Others do more damage, but none is so exasperating. He works at night, attacks the strongest, healthiest plants, and is content simply to cut them off, seldom, apparently, eating much or carrying away any of the sev- ered leaves or stems, although occasionally I have found such bits, especially small onion tops, dragged off and partly into the soil. In small gardens the quickest and best remedy is hand-picking. As the worms work at night they may be found with a lan- tern; or very early in the morning. In daytime by digging about in the soil wherever a cut is found, and by careful search, they can almost invariably be turned out. As a preventive, and a supplement to hand-picking, a poisoned bait should be used. This is made by mixing bran with water until a “mash” is made, to which is added a dusting of Paris green or arsenate of lead, sprayed on thickly and thor- oughly worked through the mass. This is distrib- 166 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING uted in small amounts—a tablespoonful or so to a place along the row or near each hill or plant—just as they are coming up or set out. Still another method, where only a few plants are put out, is to protect each by a collar of tin or tar paper. Flea-beetle:—This small, black or striped hard- shelled mite attacks potatoes and young cabbage, radish and turnip plants. It is controlled by spray- ing with kerosene emulsion or Bordeaux. Potato-beetle:—The striped Colorado beetle, which invariably finds the potato patch, no matter how small or isolated. Paris green, dry or sprayed, is the standard remedy. Arsenate of lead is now largely used. On small plots hand-picking of old bugs and destruction of eggs (which are laid on under side of leaves) is quick and sure. Potato-blight:—Both early and late forms of blight are prevented by Bordeaux, 5-5-50, sprayed every two weeks. Begin early—when plants are about six inches high. Potato-scab:—Plant on new ground; soak the seed in solution prepared as directed under No. Io, which see; allow no treated tubers to touch bags, boxes, bins or soil where untreated ones have been kept. Root-maggot:—This is a small white grub, often causing serious injury to radishes, onions and the cabbage group. Liming the soil and rotation are INSECTS AND DISEASES 167 the best preventives. Destroy all infested plants, being sure to get the maggots when pulling them up. The remaining plants should be treated with a gill of strong caustic lime water, or solution of muriate of potash poured about the root of each plant, first removing an inch or so of earth. In place of these solutions carbolic acid emulsion is some- times used; or eight to ten drops of bisulphide of carbon are dropped into a hole made near the roots with the dibber and then covered in. Extra stimu- lation, as directed for Club-root, will help carry the plants through. Squash-bug :—This is the large, black, flat “stink- bug,” so destructive of squash and the other running vines. Protection with frames, or hand-picking, are the best home garden remedies. The old bugs may be trapped under boards and by early vines. The young bugs, or “sap-sucking nymphs,” are the ones that do the real damage. Heavy tobacco dusting, or kerosene emulsion will kill them. White-fly:—This is the most troublesome under glass, where it is controlled by fumigation, but occa- sionally is troublesome on plants and tomato and cucumber vines. The young are scab-like insects and do the real damage. Spray with kerosene emul- sion or whale-oil soap. White-grub or muck-worm:—When lawns are in- fested the sod must be taken up, the grubs destroyed 168 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING and new sward made. When the roots of single plants are attacked, dig out, destroy the grubs and, if the plant is not too much injured, reset. The remedies given in the table on page 160 are prepared as follows: MECHANICAL REMEDIES 1.—Covered boxes:—These are usually made of half-inch stuff, about eight inches high and covered with mosquito netting, wire or “protecting cloth’— the latter having the extra advantage of holding warmth over night. 2.—Collars are made of old cans with the bot- toms removed, cardboard or tarred paper, large enough to go over the plant and an inch or so into the ground. 3.—Cards are cut and fitted close around the stem and for an inch or so upon the ground around it, to prevent maggots going down the stem to the root. Not much used. DESTRUCTIVE REMEDIES 4.—Hand-picking is usually very effective, and if performed as follows, not very disagreeable: Fasten a small tin can securely to a wooden handle and fill one-third full of water and kerosene; make a small wooden paddle, with one straight edge and a rather sharp point; by using this in the right hand and the INSECTS AND DISEASES 169 pan in the left, the bugs may be quickly knocked off. Be sure to destroy all eggs when hand-picking is used. 5.—Kerosene emulsion is used in varying strengths; for method of preparing, see page 221. 6 and 7.—For use of whale-oil soap and miscible oils, see pages 216, 221. 8.—Tobacco dust:—This article varies greatly. Most sorts are next to worthless, but a few of the brands especially prepared for this work (and sold usually at $3 per hundred pounds, which will last two ordinary home gardens a whole season) are very convenient to use, and effective. Apply with a duster, like that described on page 39, Implements. 9.—Carbolic acid emulsion:—1 pint crude acid, I Ib. soap and 1 gal. water. Dissolve the soap in hot water, add balance of water and pump into an emul- sion, as described for kerosene emulsion. 10.—Corrosive sublimate is used to destroy scab on potatoes for seed by dissolving 1 oz. in 7 gals. of water. The same result is obtained by soaking for thirty minutes in a solution of commercial formalin, at the rate of 1 gill to 15 gals. of water. 11.—-Bordeaux mixture :-—See page 220. POISONOUS REMEDIES 12.—Paris green:—This is the standard remedy for eating-bugs and worms. With a modern dust- 170 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING ing machine it can be put on dry, early in the morn- ing when the dew is still on. Sometimes it is mixed with plaster. For tender plants easily burned by the pure powder, and where dusting is not convenient, it is mixed with water at the rate of 1 Ib. to 50 to 100 gals. and used as a spray. In mixing, make a paste of equal quantities of the powder and quicklime, and then mix thoroughly in the water. It must be kept stirred up when using. 13.—Arsenate of lead:—This has two advantages over Paris green: It will not burn the foliage and it will stay on several times as long. Use from 4 to 10 Ibs. in 100 gals. of water; mix well and strain before putting in sprayer. See also page 222. 14.—Hellebore:—A dry, white powder, used in place of Nos. 12 or 13 on vegetables or fruit that is soon to be eaten. For dusting, use 1 Ib. hellebore to 5 of plaster or flour. For watering or spraying, at rate of 1 lb. to 12 gals. of water. PRECAUTIONS So much for what we can do in actual hand-to- hand, or rather hand-to-mouth, conflict with the en- emy. Very few remedies have ever proved entirely successful, especially on crops covering any consid- erable area. It will be far better, far easier and far more effective to use the following means of pre- caution against plant pest ravages: First, aim to INSECTS AND DISEASES 171 have soil, food and plants that will produce a rapid, robust growth without check. Such plants are sel- dom attacked by any plant disease, and the foliage does not seem to be so tempting to eating-insects ; besides which, of course, the plants are much better able to withstand their attack if they do come. Sec- ond, give clean, frequent culture and keep the soil busy. Do not have old weeds and refuse lying around for insects and eggs to be sheltered by. Burn all leaves, stems and other refuse from plants that have been diseased. Do not let the ground lie idle, but by continuous cropping keep the bugs, caterpil- lars and eggs constantly rooted out and exposed to their natural enemies. Third, practice crop rotation (described on page 106). This is of special import- ance where any root disease is developed. Fourth, watch closely and constantly for the first appearance of trouble. The old adages “eternal vigilance is the price of peace,” and “a stitch in time saves nine,” are nowhere more applicable than to this matter. ‘And last, and of extreme importance, be prepared to act at once. Do not give the enemy an hour’s rest after his presence is discovered. In almost every case it is only by having time to multiply, that dam- age amounting to anything will be done. If you will keep on hand, ready for instant use, a good hand-sprayer and a modern powder gun, a few covered boxes, tobacco dust, arsenate of lead 172, Home VEGETABLE GARDENING and materials for kerosene emulsion and Bordeaux mixture, and are not afraid to resort to hand-pick- ing when necessary, you will be able to cope with all the plant enemies you are likely to encounter. The slight expense necessary—considering that the two implements mentioned will last for years with a little care—will pay as handsome a dividend as any garden investment you can make. CHAPTER XIV, HARVESTING AND STORING T is a very common thing to allow the garden vegetables not used to rot on the ground, or in it. There is a great deal of unnecessary waste in this respect, for a great many of the things so neglected may just as well be carried into winter, and will pay a very handsome dividend for the slight trouble of gathering and storing them. A good frost-proof, cool cellar is the best and most convenient place in which to store the surplus product of the home garden. But, lacking this, a room partitioned off in the furnace cellar and well ventilated, or a small empty room, preferably on the north side of the house, that can be kept below forty degrees most of the time, will serve excellently. Or, some of the most bully vegetables, such as cab- bage and the root crops, may be stored in a prepared pit made in the garden itself. As it is essential that such a pit be properly con- structed, I shall describe one with sufficient detail to enable the home gardener readily to construct it. (173) 174. Home VEGETABLE GARDENING Select a spot where water will not stand. Put the vegetables in a triangular-shaped pile, the base three or four feet wide, and as long as required. Sepa- rate the different vegetables in this pile by stakes about two feet higher than the top of the pile, and label them. Then cover with a layer of clean straw or bog hay, and over this four inches of soil, dug up three feet back from the edges of the pile. This work must be done late in the fall, as nearly as one can judge just before lasting freezing begins, and preferably on a cold morning when the ground is just beginning to freeze; the object being to freeze the partly earth covering at once, so that it will not be washed or blown off. The vegetables must be perfectly dry when stored; dig them a week or so previous and keep them in an airy shed. As soon as this first layer of earth is partly frozen, but before it freezes through, put on another thick layer of straw or hay and cover with twelve inches of earth, keeping the pile as steep as possible ; a slightly clayey soil, that may be beaten down firmly into shape with a spade, being best. The pile should be made where it will be sheltered from the sun as much as possible, such as on the north side of a building. The disad- vantage of the plan is, of course, that the vegetables cannot be got at until the pile is opened up, in early spring, or late if desired. Its two advantages are that the vegetables stored will be kept in better con- HARVESTING AND STORING 175 dition than in any cellar, and that cellar or house room will be saved. For storing small quantities of the roots, such as carrots or beets, they are usually packed in boxes or barrels and covered in with clean sand. Where an upstairs room has to be used, swamp or sphagnum moss may replace the sand. It makes an ideal pack- ing medium, as it is much lighter and cleaner than the sand. In many localities it may be had for the gathering ; in others one may get it from a florist. In storing vegetables of any kind, and by what- ever method, see to it that: (1) They are always clean, dry and sound. The smallest spot or bruise is a danger center, which may spread destruction to the lot. (2) That the temperature, whatever required—in most cases 33-38 degrees being best—is kept as even as possible. . (3) That the storage place is kept clean, dry (by ventilation when needed) and sweet (by use of whitewash and lime). (4) That no rats or other rodents are playing havoc with your treasures while you never suspect it. So many of the vegetables can be kept, for either part or all of the winter, that I shall take them up in order, with brief directions. Many, such as green beans, rhubarb, tomatoes, etc., which cannot be kept in the ordinary ways, may be easily and cheaply 176 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING canned, and where one has a good cellar, it will certainly pay to get a canning outfit and make use of this method. Beans:—Almost all the string and snap beans, when dried in the pods, are excellent for cooking. And any pods which have not been gathered in the green state should be picked, as soon as dry (as wet weather is likely to mould or sprout them), and stored in a dry place, or spread on a bench in the sun. They will keep, either shelled or in the dry pods, for winter. Beets:—In October, before the first hard frosts, take up and store in a cool cellar, in clean, perfectly dry sand, or in pits outside (see Cabbage) ; do not cut off the long tap roots, nor the tops close enough to cause any “bleeding.” Brussels sprouts:—These are improved by freez- ing, and may be used from the open garden until December. If wanted later, store them with cab- bage, or hang up the stalks in bunches in a cold cellar. Cabbage:—If only a few heads are to be stored, a cool cellar will do. Even if where they will be slightly frozen, they will not be injured, so long as they do not freeze and thaw repeatedly. They should not be taken in until there is danger of severe freezing, as they will keep better, and a little frost improves the flaver. For storing small quantities HARVESTING AND STORING 177 outdoors, dig a trench, a foot or so deep, in a well drained spot, wide enough to admit two heads side by side. Pull up the cabbages, without removing either stems or outer leaves, and store side by side, head down, in the bottom of the trench. Now cover over lightly with straw, meadow hay, or any refuse which will keep the dirt from freezing to the cab- bages, and then cover over the whole with earth, to the depth of several inches, but allowing the top of the roots to remain exposed, which will facilitate digging them up as required. Do not bury the cab- bage until as late as possible before severe freezing, as a spell of warm weather would rot it. Carrots:—Treat in the same way as beets. They will not be hurt by a slight freezing of the tops, be- fore being dug, but care must be taken not to let the roots become touched by frost. Celery:—That which is to be used early is blanched outside, by banking, as described in Chap- ter XI, and as celery will stand a little freezing, will be used directly from the garden. For the portion to be kept over winter, provide boxes about a foot wide, and nearly as deep as the celery is high. Cover the bottoms of these boxes with two or three inches of sand, and wet thoroughly. Upon this stand the celery upright, and packed close together. In taking up the celery for storing in this way, the roots and whatever earth adheres to them are kept 12 178 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING on, not cut, as it is bought in the stores. The boxes are then stored in a cellar, or other dark, dry, cold place where the temperature will not go more than five degrees below freezing. The celery will be ready for use after Christmas. If a long succession is wanted, store from the open two or three different times, say at the end of October, first part of No- vember and the latter part of November. Cucumbers, Melons, Egg-plant:—While there is no way of storing these for any great length of time without recourse to artificial cold, they may be had for some time by storing just before the first frosts in a cool, dark cellar, care being taken in handling the fruits to give them no bruises. Onions:—If the onions got a good early start in the spring, the tops will begin to die down by the middle of August. As soon as the tops have turned yellow and withered they should be pulled, on the first clear dry day, and laid in windrows (three or four rows in one), but not heaped up. They should be turned over frequently, by hand or with a wooden rake, and removed to a shed or barn floor as soon as dry, where the tops can be cut off. Keep them spread out as much as possible, and give them open ventilation until danger of frost. Then store in a dry place and keep as cool as possible without freez- ing. A few barrels, with holes knocked in the sides, will do well for a small quantity. JoJUIM pur Jowuins y}Oq OF poos ‘uspivs []Vuls 94} Of Jsoq A1OA ay} JO aU “ysenbs PvyweIq oa AjatieA UMOUYH [JAM ysaSie] ay} St paBuUlIy JuUeIN !pooS si uerejeg paavo|-peorg saarpua oy) JO HARVESTING AND STORING 179 Parsley:—Take up a few plants and keep in a flower-pot or small box, in the kitchen window. Parsnips:—These will stay in the ground with- out injury all winter, but part of the crop may be taken up late in the fall and stored with beets, car- rots and turnips, to use while the ground is frozen. Potatoes: —When the vines have died down and the skin of the new potatoes has become somewhat hardened, they can be dug and stored in a cool, dry cellar at once. Be sure to give plenty of ventilation until danger of frost. Keep from the light, as this has the effect of making the potatoes bitter. If there is any sign of rot among the tubers, do not dig them up until it has stopped. Squash and Pumpkins:—The proper conditions for storing for winter will be indicated by the dry- ing and shrinking of the stem. Cut them from the vines, being careful never to break off the stem, tura over, rub off the dirt and leave the under side ex- posed to a few days’ sunlight. Then carry in a spring wagon, or spring wheelbarrow, covered with old bags or hay to keep from any bruises. Store in the dryest part of the cellar, and if possible where the temperature will not go below forty degrees. Leave them on the vines in the field as late as possi- ble, while escaping frosts. Tomatoes:—Just before the first frosts are likely to begin, pick all of the best of the unripened fruits. 180 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING Place part of these on clean straw in a coldframe, giving pfotection, where they will gradually ripen up. Place others, that are fully developed but not ripe, in straw in the cellar. In this way fresh toma- toes may frequently be had as late as Christmas. Turnip:—These roots, if desired, can be stored as are beets or carrots. It is hard to retain our interest in a thing when most of its usefulness has gone by. It is for that reason, I suppose, that one sees so many forsaken and weed-grown gardens every autumn, where in the spring everything was neat and clean. But there are two very excellent reasons why the vegetable garden should not be so abandoned—to say nothing of appearances! The first is that many vegetables continue to grow until the heavy frosts come; and the second, that the careless gardener who thus for- sakes his post is sowing no end of trouble for him- self for the coming year. For weeds left to them- selves, even late in the fall, grow in the cool moist weather with astonishing rapidity, and, almost be- fore one realizes it, transform the well kept garden into a ragged wilderness, where the intruders have taken such a strong foothold that they cannot be pulled up without tearing everything else with them. So we let them go—and, left to themselves, they accomplish their purpose in life, and leave upon the ground an evenly distributed supply of plump ripe HARVESTING AND STORING 181 seeds, which next spring will cause the perennial exclamation, “Mercy, John, where did ail these weeds come from?” And John replies, “I don’t know; we kept the garden clean last summer. I think there must be weed seeds in the fertilizer.” Do not let up on your fight with weeds, for every good vegetable that is left over can be put to some use. Here and there in the garden will be a strip that has gone by, and as it is now too late to plant, we just let it go. Yet now is the time we should be preparing all such spots for withstanding next sum- mer’s drouth! You may remember how strongly was emphasized the necessity for having abundant humus (decayed vegetable matter) in the soil—how it acts like a sponge to retain moisture and keep things growing through the long, dry spells which we seem to be sure of getting every summer. Sa take thought for next year. Buy a bushel of rye, and as fast as a spot in your garden can be cleaned up, harrow, dig or rake it over, and sow the rye on broadcast. Just enough loose surface dirt to cover it and let it sprout, is all it asks. If the weather is dry, and you can get a small roller, roll it in to ensure better germination. It will come up quickly; it will keep out the weeds which otherwise would be taking possession of the ground; it will grow until the ground is frozen solid and begin again with the first warm spring day; it will keep 182 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING your garden from washing out in heavy rains, and capture and save from being washed away and wasted a good deal of left-over plant food; it will serve as just so much real manure for your garden; it will improve the mechanical condition of the soil, and it will add the important element of humus to it. In addition to these things, you will have an at- tractive and luxuriant garden spot, instead of an unsightly bare one. And in clearing off these patches for rye, beware of waste. If you have hens, or by chance a pig, they will relish old heads of lettuce, old pea-vines, still green after the last pick- ing, and the stumps and outer leaves of cabbage. Even if you have not this means of utilizing your garden’s by-products, do not let them go to waste. Put everything into a square pile—old sods, weeds, vegetable tops, refuse, dirt, leaves, lawn sweepings— anything that will rot. Tread this pile down thor- oughly; give it a soaking once in a while if within reach of the hose, and two or three turnings with a fork. Next spring when you are looking for every available pound of manure with which to enrich your garden, this compost heap will stand you in good stead. Burn now your old pea-brush, tomato poles and everything that is not worth keeping over for next year. Do not leave these things lying around to gids decisive answer to the “no room for fruit” argument A very el One way of finding room—standard grafted on dwarf stock uosureut 1nd os[qr ) SUIAIOS S nif poured . . + o 14 . . ey oY Cjmiay pue Sutids ay} ur ie eB oso ¢ pe 19 901} VI 3 Ju } a }} init a nn ~ uy Ny HARVESTING AND STORING 183 harbor and protect eggs and insects and weed seeds. If any bean-poles, stakes, trellises or supports seem in good enough condition to serve another year, put them under cover now; and see that all your tools are picked up and put in one place, where you can find them and overhaul them next February. As soon as your surplus pole beans have dried in their pods, take up poles and all and store in a dry place. The beans may be taken off later at your leisure. Be careful to cut down and burn (or put in the compost heap) all weeds around your fences, and the edges of your garden, before they ripen seed. If the suggestions given are followed, the vegeta- ble garden may be stretched far into the winter. But do not rest at that. Begin to plan now for your next year’s garden. Put a pile of dirt where it will not be frozen, or dried out, when you want to use it next February for your early seeds. If you have no hotbed, fix the frames and get the sashes for one now, so it will be ready to hand when the ground is frozen solid and covered with snow next spring. If you have made garden mistakes this year, be planning now to rectify them next—without prog- ress there is no fun in the game. Let next spring find you with your plans all made, your materials all on hand and a fixed resolution to have the best garden you have ever had. Part Three—Fruits and Berries CHAPTER XV, THE VARIETIES OF POME AND STONE FRUITS ANY a home gardener who has succeeded well with vegetables is, for some reason or other, still fearsome about trying his hand at growing his own fruit. This is all a mistake; the initial expense is very slight (fruit trees will cost but twenty-five to forty cents each, and the berry bushes only about four cents each), and the same amount of care that is demanded by vegetables, if given to fruit, will pro- duce apples, peaches, pears and berries far superior to any that can be bought, especially in flavor. I know a doctor in New York, a specialist, who has attained prominence in his profession, and who makes a large income; he tells me that there is noth- ing in the city that hurts him so much as to have to pay out a nickel whenever he wants an apple. His boyhood home was on a Pennsylvania farm, where apples were as free as water, and he cannot get over the idea of their being one of Nature’s gracious gifts, any more than he can overcome his (184) Fruit VARIETIES 185 hankering for that crisp, juicy, uncloying flavor of a good apple, which is not quite equaled by the taste of any other fruit. And yet it is not the saving in expense, although that is considerable, that makes the strongest argu- ment for growing one’s own fruit. There are three other reasons, each of more importance. First is quality. The commercial grower cannot afford to grow the very finest fruit. Many of the best varie- ties are not large enough yielders to be available for his use, and he cannot, on a large scale, so prune and care for his trees that the individual fruits re- ceive the greatest possible amount of sunshine and thinning out—the personal care that is required for the very best quality. Second, there is the beauty and the value that well kept fruit trees add to a place, no matter how small it is. An apple tree in full bloom is one of the most beautiful pictures that Nature ever paints; and if, through any train of circumstances, it ever becomes advisable to sell or rent the home, its desirability is greatly enhanced by the few trees necessary to furnish the loveliness of showering blossoms in spring, welcome shade in summer and an abundance of delicious fruits through autumn and winter. Then there is the fun of doing it—of planting and caring for a few young trees, which will reward your labors, in a cumula- tive way, for many years to come. 186 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING But enough of reasons. If the call of the soil is in your veins, if your fingers (and your brain) in the springtime itch to have a part in earth’s ever- wonderful renascence, if your lips part at the thought of the white, firm, toothsome flesh of a ripened-on-the-tree red apple—then you must have a home orchard without delay. And it is not a difficult task. Apples, pears and the stone fruits, fortunately, are not very particular about their soils. They take kindly to anything between a sandy soil so loose as to be almost shift- ing, and heavy clay. Even these soils can be made available, but of course not without more work. And you need little room to grow all the fruit your family can possibly eat. Time was, when to speak of an apple tree brought to mind one of those old, moss-barked giants that served as a carriage shed and a summer dining-room, decorated with scythes and rope swings, requiring the services of a forty-foot ladder and a long-handled picker to gather the fruit. That day is gone. In its stead have come the low-headed standard and the dwarf forms. The new types came as new institutions usually do, under protest. The wise said they would never be practical—the trees would not get large enough and teams could not be driven under them. But the facts remained that the low trees are more easily and thoroughly Fruit VARIETIES 187 cared for; that they do not take up so much room; that they are less exposed to high winds, and such fruit as does fall is not injured; that the low limbs shelter the roots and conserve moisture; and, above all, that picking can be accomplished much more easily and with less injury to fine, well ripened fruit. The low-headed tree has come to stay. If your space will allow, the low-headed stand- ards will give you better satisfaction than the dwarfs. They are longer-lived, they are healthier, and they do not require nearly so much intensive culture. On the other hand, the dwarfs may be used where there is little or no room for the stand- ards. If there is no other space available, they may be put in the vegetable or flower garden, and incidentally they are then sure of receiving some of that special care which they need in the way of fertilization and cultivation. As I have said, any average soil will grow good fruit. A gravelly loam, with a gravel subsoil, is the ideal. Do not think from this, however, that all you have to do is buy a few trees from a nursery agent, stick them in the ground and from your neg- ligence reap the rewards that follow only intelligent industry. The soil is but the raw material which work and care alone can transform, through the medium of the growing tree, into the desired result of a cellar well stored each autumn with fruit. 188 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING Fruit trees have one big advantage over vegeta- bles—the ground can be prepared for them while they are growing. If the soil will grow a crop of clover it is already in good shape to furnish the trees with food at once. If not, manure or fer- tilizers may be applied, and clover or other green crops turned under during the first two or three yeas of the trees’ growth, as will be described later. The first thing to consider, when you have de- cided to plant, is the location you will give your trees. Plan to have pears, plums, cherries and peaches, as well as apples. For any of these the soil, of whatever nature, must be well drained. If not naturally, then tile or other artificial drainage must be provided. For only a few trees it would probably answer the purpose to dig out large holes and fill in a foot or eighteen inches at the bottom with small stone, covered with gravel or screened coal-cinders. My own land has a gravelly subsoil and I have not had to drain. Then with the apples, and especially with the peaches, a too-sheltered slope to the south is likely to start the flower buds prematurely in spring, only to result in total crop loss from late frosts. The diagram on the next page suggests an arrangement which may be adapted to individual needs. One may see from it that the apples are placed to the north, where they will to some extent shelter the rest of the grounds; the Fruit VARIETIES 189 peaches where they will not be coddled; the pears, which may be had upon quince stock, where they will not shade the vegetable garden; the cherries, fh. (3 @ A suggested arrangement of fruit trees on the small place: 1— Apples, 2—Peaches, 3—Cherries, 4—Quinces, 5—Plums, 6—Pears ote & {) ze a ® | - SG Mie «0 VEGETABLE @ e ee @ fi © ©eg which are the most ornamental, where they may lend a decorative effect. And now, hav- ing decided that we can—and will —grow good fruit, and having in mind sugges- tions that will en- able us to go out to-morrow morn- ing and, with an armful of stakes, mark out the loca- tions, the next con- sideration should be the all-import- ant question of what varieties are most successfully grown on the small place. The following selections are made with the home fruit garden, not the commercial orchard, in mind. 190 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING While they are all “tried and true” sorts, succeeding generally in the northeast, New England and west- ern fruit sections, remember that fruits, as a rule, though not so particular as vegetables about soil, seem much more so about locality. I would sug- gest, therefore, submitting your list, before buying, to your State Experiment Station. You are taxed for its support; get some direct result from it. There they will be glad to advise you, and are in the best position to help you get started properly. Above all, do not buy from the traveling nursery agent, with his grip full of wonderful lithographs of new and unheard-of novelties. Get the catalogue of several reliable nurseries, take standard varieties about which you know, and buy direct, Several years ago I had the opportunity to go carefully over one of the largest fruit nurseries in the country. Every care and precaution was taken to grow fine, healthy, young trees. The president told me that they sold thousands every year to smaller concerns, to be resold again through field and local agents. Yet they do an enormous retail business them- selves, and of course their own customers get the best trees. The following are listed, as nearly as I can judge, in the order of their popularity, but as many of the best are not valuable commercially, they are little known. Whenever you find a particularly good apple or pear, try to trace it, and add it to your list. a yi é : f Zs Mie Peach trees come into bearimg in three years, so they are frequently used as “fillers” between the rows of slower trees he add Two crops on the same ground at the same time—fruit and poultry. The chickens help to keep in check the devastating hordes of insects Cut out Prune trees to secure an open center. cross one another all limbs that FRUIT VARIETIES IgI APPLES Without any question, the apple is far and away the most valuable fruit, both because of its greater scope of usefulness and its longer season—the last of the winter’s Russets are still juicy and firm when the first Early Harvests and Red Astrachans are tempting the ‘young idea’’ to experiment with colic. Plant but a small proportion of early varieties, for the late ones are better. Out of a dozen trees, I would put in one early, three fall, and the rest win- ter sorts. Among the summer apples are several deserving special mention: Yellow Transparent is the earliest. It is an old favorite and one of the most easily grown of all apples. Its color is indicated by the name, and it is a fair eating-apple and a very good cooker. Red Astrachan, another first early, is not quite so good for cooking, but is a delicious eating- apple of good size. An apple of more recent intro- duction and extremely hardy (hailing first from Russia), and already replacing the above sorts, is Livland (Livland Raspberry). The tree is of good form, very vigorous and healthy. The fruit is ready almost as soon as Yellow Transparent, and is of much better quality for eating. In appearance it is exceptionally handsome, being of good size, regular form and having those beautiful red shades found almost exclusively in the later apples. The flesh is 192 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING bright white, reddish sub-skin, tender and of an agreeable sourish flavor. Another good early is Chenango (Chenango Strawberry). It is not so well known, nor so much appreciated as it should be, for two of its characteristics have mitigated against its commercial use, and these same char- acteristics add to its value in a home orchard. First, it does not attain a very large size; and second, it is a “successive” ripener, the maturing of its fruits being stretched throughout September. In shape it is oblong, not very regular; in color, yellow un- derground, with attractive red, irregular stripes overlaid. It is essentially an eating-apple, being too mild for cooking purposes. Among the autumn group my preference is Por- ter, for an early sort, handsome and regular in shape, and of an attractive ripe yellow color. I remember how the first windfalls from the two trees in our orchard used to be prized in the daily hunts after school, and very often, when no one was look- ing from the house, the force of gravity seemed to have a strangely selective action in the case of the biggest fruits. Gravenstein is another early, well and favorably known. For, late autumn. sorts, McIntosh Red is without an equal. The color is one of the most tempting reds of any apple grown, shading to dark velvet, overspread with a delicate bloom, in form remarkably even and round. Its FRuIT VARIETIES 193 quality is fully up to its appearance. The white, crisp-breaking flesh, most aromatic, deliciously sub- acid, makes it ideal for eating. A neighbor of mine sold $406 worth of fruit from twenty trees to one dealer. For such a splendid apple McIntosh is re- markably hardy and vigorous, succeeding over a very wide territory, and climate severe enough to kill many of the other newer varieties. The Fameuse (widely known as the Snow) is an ex- cellent variety for northern sections. It resembles the McIntosh, which some claim to be derived from it. Fall Pippin, Pound Sweet and Twenty Ounce, are other popular late autumns. In the winter section, Baldwin, which is too well known to need describing, is the leading commer- cial variety in many apple districts, and it is a good variety for home growing on account of its hardi- ness and good cooking and keeping qualities; but for the home orchard, it is far surpassed in quality by several others. In northern sections, down to the corn line, Northern Spy is a great favorite. It is a large, roundish apple, with thin, tender, glossy skin, light to deep carmine over light yellow, and an excellent keeper. In sections to which it is adapted it is a particularly vigorous, compact, up- right grower. Jonathan is another splendid sort, with a wider range of conditions favorable for growth. It is, however, not a strong-growing tree 13 194 Homer VEGETABLE GARDENING and is somewhat uncertain in maturing its fruit, which is a bright, clear red of distinctive flavor. It likes a soil with more clay than do most apples. In the Middle West and Middle South, Grimes (Golden) has made a great local reputation in many sections, although in others it has not done well at all. The Spitzenberg (Esopus) is very near the top of the list of all late eating-apples, being at its prime about December. It is another handsome yellow- covered red apple, with flesh slightly yellowish, but very good to the taste. The tree, unfortunately, is not a robust grower, being especially weak in its earlier stages, but with good cultivation it will not fail to reward the grower for any extra care it may have required. These, and the other notable varieties, which there is not room here to describe, make up the following list, from which the planter should select according to locality: Earliest or Summer:—Early Harvest, Yellow Transparent, Red Astrachan, Benoni (new), Che- nango, Sweet Bough, Williams’ Favorite, Early Strawberry, Livland Raspberry. Early Autumn:—Alexander, Duchess, Porter, Gravenstein, McIntosh Red. Late Autumn:—Jefferies, Fameuse (Snow), Maiden’s Blush, Wealthy, Fall Pippin, Pound FRuIT VARIETIES 195 Sweet, Twenty Ounce, Cox Orange, Hubbardston. Winter:—Baldwin, Rhode Island Greening, Northwestern Greening, Jonathan, Northern Spy, Yellow, Swaar, Delicious, Wagener, King, Esopus, Spitzenberg, Yellow Bellflower, Winter Banana, Seek-no-further, Talman Sweet, Roxbury Russett, King David, Stayman’s Winesap, Wolf River. PEARS Pears are more particular than apples in the mat- ter of being adapted to sections and soils. Submit your list to your State Experiment Station before ordering trees. Many of the standard sorts may be had where a low-growing, spreading tree is desired (for instance, quince-stock pears might be used to change places with the plums in the diagram on page 189). Varieties suitable for this method are listed below. They are given approximately in the order of the ripening: Wilder: Early August, medium in size, light yel- low, excellent quality. Does not rot at the core, as so many early pears are liable to do. Margaret: Oblong, greenish, yellow to dull red. Clapp Favorite: Very large, yellow pear. A great bearer and good keeper—where the children cannot get at it. Howell: A little later than the foregoing; large, bright yellow, strong-growing tree and big bearer. 196 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING Duchesse d’Angouleme: Large greenish yellow, sometimes reaching huge size; will average better than three-quarters of a pound. The quality, despite its size, is splendid. Seckel: Small in size, but renowned for exquisite flavor—being probably the most universally ad- mired of all. Beurre Superfine : October, medium size, excellent quality. Bartlett: The best known of all pears, and a uni- versal favorite. Succeeds in nearly all sections. Anjou: One of the best keepers, and very pro- ductive. One of the best in flavor, rich and vinous. For trees of the standard type the following are worthy of note: Congress (Souvenir du C.): A very large sum- mer sort. Handsome. Belle Lucrative: September to October. Winter Nelis: Medium size, but of excellent quality and the longest keeper. Kieffer: Very popular for its productiveness, strength of growth and exceptional quality of fruit for canging and preserving. Large fruit, if kept thinned. Should have a place in every home garden. Josephine de Malines: Not a great yielder but of the very highest quality, being of the finest tex- ture and tempting aroma. FRuiT VARIETIES 197 PEACHES Success with peaches also will depend largely upon getting varieties adapted to climate. The white-fleshed type is the hardiest and best for eat- ing ; and the free-stones are for most purposes, espe- cially in the home garden, more desirable than the “clings.” Greensboro is the best early variety. Crawford is a universal favorite and goes well over a wide range of soil and climate. Champion is one of the best quality peaches and exceptionally hardy. El- berta, Ray, and Hague are other excellent sorts. Mayflower is the earliest sort yet introduced. PLUMS The available plums are of three classes—the na- tives, Europeans and Japans; the natives are the longest-lived, hardier in tree and blossom, and heavier bearers. The best early is Milton; brilliant red, yellow and juicy flesh. Wildgoose and Whitaker are good seconds. Mrs. Cleveland is a later and larger sort, of finer quality. Three late-ripening plums of the finest quality, but not such prolific yielders, are Wayland, Benson and Reed, and where there is room for only a few trees, these will be best. They will need one tree of Newman or Prairie Flower 198 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING with them to assure setting of the fruit. Of the Europeans, use Reine Claude (the best), Brad- shaw or Shropshire. Damson is also good. The Japanese varieties should go on high ground and be thinned, especially during their first years. My first experience with Japanese plums convinced me that I had solved the plum problem; they bore loads of fruit, and were free from disease. That was five years ago. Last spring the last one was cut and burned. Had they been planted at the top of a small hill, instead of at the bottom, as they were, and restricted in their bearing, I know from later experience that they would still be producing fruit. The most satisfactory varieties of the Japanese type are Abundance and Red June. Burbank is also highly recommended, CHERRIES Cherries have one advantage over the other fruits —they give quicker returns. But, as far as my ex- perience goes, they are not as long-lived. The sour type is hardier, at least north of New Jersey, than the sweet. It will probably pay to try a few of the new and highly recommended varieties. Of the established sorts Early Richmond is a good early, to be followed by Montmorency and English Morello. Fruit VARIETIES 199 Windsor is a good sweet cherry, as are also Black Tartarian, Sox, Wood and Yellow Spanish. All the varieties mentioned above are proved sorts. But the lists are being added to constantly, and where there is a novelty strongly recommended by a reliable nurseryman it will often pay to try it out—on a very small scale at first. CHAPTER XVI PLANTING: CULTIVATION : FILLER CROPS S the pedigree and the quality of the stock you plant will have a great deal to do with the success or failure of your adventure in orcharding, even on a very small scale, it is im- portant to get the best trees you can, anywhere, at any price. But do not jump to the conclusion that the most costly trees will be the best. From relia- ble nurserymen, selling direct by mail, you can get good trees at very reasonable prices. As a general thing you will succeed best if you have nothing to do with the perennial “tree agent.” He may represent a good firm; you may get your trees on time; he may have a novelty as good as the standard sorts; but you are taking three very great chances in assuming so. But, leaving these ques- tions aside, there is no particular reason why you should help pay his traveling expenses and the printing bills for his lithographs (“made from actual photographs” or “painted from nature,” of course!) when you can get the best trees to be had, (200) Fruit CULTIVATION 201 direct from the soil in which they are grown, at the lowest prices, by ordering through the mail. Or, better still, if the nursery is not too far away, take half a day off and select them in person. If you want to help the agent along present him with the amount of his commission, but get your trees direct from some large reliable nursery. Well grown nursery stock will stand much abuse, but it will not be at all improved by it. Do not let yours stand around in the sun and wind, waiting until you get a chance to set it out. As soon as you get it home from the express office, unpack it and “heel it in,” in moist, but not wet, ground; if under a shed, so much the better. Dig out a narrow trench and pack it in as thick as it will go, at an angle of forty-five degrees to the natural position when growing. So stored, it will keep a long time in cold weather, only be careful that no rats, mice, or rabbits reach it. Do not, however, depend upon this knowledge to the extent of letting all your preparations for plant- ing go until your stock is on hand. Be ready to set it the day it arrives, if possible. PLANTING Planting can be done in either spring or fall. As a general rule, north of Philadelphia and St. Louis, spring planting will be best; south of that, fall 202 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING planting. Where there is apt to be severe freezing, “heaving, caused by the alternate freezing and thawing ; injury to the newly set roots from too se- vere cold; and, in some western sections, “‘sun- scald” of the bark, are three injuries which may result. If trees are planted in the fall in cold sec- tions, a low mound of earth, six to twelve inches high, should be left during the winter about each, and leveled down in the spring. If set in the spring, where hot, dry weather is apt to follow, they should be thoroughly mulched with litter, straw or coarse manure, to preserve moisture—care being taken, however, against field mice and other rodents. The trees may either be set in their permanent positions as soon as bought, or grown in “nursery rows’ by the purchaser for one or two years after being purchased. In the former case, it will be the best policy to get the strongest, straightest two-year stock you can find, even if they cost ten or fifteen cents apiece more than the ‘‘mediums.” The former method is the usual one, but the latter has so many advantages that I give it the emphasis of a separate paragraph, and urge every prospective planter to consider it carefully. In the first place, then, you get your trees a little cheaper. If you purchase for nursery row planting, six-foot to seven-foot two-year-old apple trees, of the standard sorts, should cost you about thirty ’ Fruit CULTIVATION 203 cents each; one-year “buds,” six feet and branched, five to ten cents less. This gain, however, is not an important one—there are four others, each of which makes it worth while to give the method a trial. First, the trees being all together, and in a con- venient place, the chances are a hundred to one that you will give them better attention in the way of spraying, pruning and cultivating—all extremely important in the first year’s growth. Second, with the year gained for extra preparation of the soil where they are to be placed permanently, you can make conditions just right for them to take hold at once and thrive as they could not do otherwise. Third, the shock of transplanting will be much less than when they are shipped from a distance—they will have made an additional growth of dense, short roots and they will have become acclimated. Fourth, you will not have wasted space and time with any backward black sheep among the lot, as these should be discarded at the second planting. And then there is one further reason, psychological perhaps, but none the less important; you will watch these little trees, which are largely the result of your own labor and care, when set in their perma- nent positions, much more carefully than you would those direct from the nursery. I know, both from experience and observation, how many thrifty young trees in the home orchard are done to an un- 204 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING timely death by children, careless workmen, and other animals. So if you can put a twelve-month curb on your impatience, get one-year trees and set them out in a straight row right in your vegetable garden where they will take up very little room. Keep them culti- vated just as thoroughly as the rest of your growing things. Melons, or beans, or almost any low- growing vegetable can be grown close beside them. If you want your garden to pay for your whole lot of fruit trees this season dig up a hole about! three feet in diameter wherever a tree is to go per- manently. Cut the sod up fine and work in four or five good forkfuls of well rotted manure, and on these places, when it is warm enough, plant a hill of lima pole-beans—the new sort named Giant- podded Pole Lima is the best I have yet seen. Place a stout pole, eight to ten feet high, firmly in each hole. Good lima beans are always in demand, and bring high prices. Let us suppose that your trees are at hand, either direct from the nursery or growing in the garden. You have selected, if possible, a moist, gravelly loam on a slope or slight elevation, where it is nat- urally and perfectly drained. Good soil drainage is imperative. Coarse gravel in the bottom of the planting hole will help out temporarily. If the land is in clover sod, it will have the ideal preparation, Fruit CULTIVATION 205 especially if you can grow a patch of potatoes or corn on it one year, while your trees are getting further growth. In such land the holes will not have to be prepared. If, however, you are not fortunate enough to be able to devote such a space to fruit trees, and in order to have them at all must place them along your wall or scattered through the grounds (as suggested in the diagram, page 189), you can still give them an excellent start by enriching the soil in spots beforehand, as suggested above in growing lima beans. In the event of finding even this last way inapplicable to your land, the following method will make success certain: Dig out holes three to six feet in diameter (if the soil is very hard, the larger dimension), and twelve to eighteen inches deep. Mix thoroughly with the excavated soil a good barrowful of the oldest, finest manure you can get, combined with about one- fourth or one-fifth its weight of South Carolina rock: (or acid phosphate, if you cannot get the rock). It is a good plan to compost the manure and rock in advance, or use the rock as an absorbent in the stable. Fill in the hole again, leaving room in the center to: set the tree without bending or cramping any roots. Where any of these are in- jured or bruised, cut them off clean at the injured spot with a sharp knife. Shorten any that are long and straggling about one-third to one-half their 206 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING length. Properly grown stock should not be in any such condition. Remember that a well planted tree will give more fruit in the first ten years than three trees carelessly put in. Get the tree so that it will be one to three inches deeper in the soil than when growing in the nursery. Work the soil in firmly about the roots with the fingers or a blunt wooden “tamper’’; do not be afraid to use your feet. When the roots are well covered, firm the tree in by putting all your weight upon the soil around it. See that it is planted straight, and if the “whip,” or small trunk, is not straight stake it, and tie it with rye straw, raffia or strips of old cloth—never string or wire. If the soil is very dry, water the root copiously while planting until the soil is about half filled in, never on the surface, as that is likely to cause a crust to form and keep out the air so necessary to healthy growth. Prune back the “leader” of the tree—the top above the first lateral branches, about one-half. Peach trees should be cut back more severely. Fur- ther information in regard to pruning, and the dif- ferent needs of the various fruits in regard to this important matter, will be given in the next chapter. SETTING Standard apple trees, fully grown, will require Fruit CULTIVATION 207 thirty to forty-five feet of space between them each way. It takes, however, ten or twelve years after the trees are set before all of this space is needed. A system of “fillers,” or inter-planting, has come into use as a result of this, which will give at least one hundred per cent. more fruit for the first ten years. Small-growing standards, standard varieties on dwarf stock, and also peaches, are used for this purpose in commercial orchards. But the principle may be applied with equally good results to the home orchard, or even to the planting of a few scat- tered trees. The standard dwarfs give good satisfac- tion as permanent fillers. Where space is very lim- ited, or the fruit must go into the garden, they may be used in place of the standard sorts altogether. The dwarf trees are, as a rule, not so long-lived as the standards, and to do their best, need more care in fertilizing and manuring; but the fruit is just as good; just as much, or more, can be grown on the same area; and the trees come into bearing two to three years sooner. They cost less to begin with and are also easier to care for, in spraying and pruning and in picking the fruit. CULTIVATION The home orcnard, to give the very finest quality of fruit, must be given careful and thorough culti- vation. In the case of scattered trees, where it is 208 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING not practicable to use a horse, this can be given by working a space four to six feet wide about each tree. Every spring the soil should be loosened up, with the cultivator or fork, as the case may be, and kept stirred during the early part of the summer. Unless the soil is rich, a fertilizer, high in potash and not too high in nitrogen, should be given in the spring. Manure and phosphate rock, as suggested above, is as good as any. In case the foliage is not a deep healthy green, apply a few handfuls of nitrate of soda, working it into the soil just before a rain, around each tree. About August Ist the cultivation should be dis- continued, and some “cover crop” sown. Buckwheat and crimson clover is a good combination; as the former makes a rapid growth it will form, if rolled down just as the apples are ripening, a soft cushion upon which the windfalls may drop without injury, and will furnish enough protection to the crimson clover to carry it through most winters, even in cold climates. In addition to the filler crops, where the ground is to be cultivated by horse, potatoes may be grown between the rows of trees; or fine hills of melons or squash may be grown around scattered trees, thus, incidentally, saving a great deal of space in the vegetable garden. Or why not grow a few extra fancy strawberries in the well cultivated spots about FRUIT CULTIVATION 209 these trees? Neither they nor the trees want the ground too rich, especially in nitrogen, and condi- tions suiting the one would be just right for the others. It may seem to the beginner that fruit-growing, with all these things to keep in mind, is a difficult task. But it is not. I think I am perfectly safe in saying that the rewards from nothing else he can plant and care for are as certain, and surely none are more satisfactory. If you cannot persuade your- self to try fruit on any larger plan, at least order half a dozen dwarf trees (they will cost about twenty cents apiece, and can be had by mail). They will prove about the best paying investment you ever made. 4 CHAPTER XVII PRUNING, SPRAYING, HARVESTING HE day has gone, probably forever, when setting out fruit trees and giving them occasional cultivation, “plowing up the or- chard” once in several years, would produce fruit. Apples and pears and peaches have occupied no preferred position against the general invasion of the realm of horticulture by insect and fungous ene- mies. The fruits have, indeed, suffered more than most plants. Nevertheless there is this encouraging fact: that, though the fruits may have been severely attacked, the means we now have of fighting fruit- tree enemies, if thoroughly used, as a rule are more certain of accomplishing their purpose, and keeping the enemies completely at bay, than are similar weapons in any other line of horticultural work. With fruit trees, as with vegetables and flowers, the most important precaution to be taken against insects and disease is to have them in a healthy, thriving, growing condition, It is a part of Na- ture’s law of the survival of the fittest that any (210) PRUNING 211 backward or weakling plant or tree seems to fall first prey to the ravages of destructive forces. For these reasons the double necessity of main- taining at all times good fertilization and thorough cultivation will be seen. In addition to these two factors, careful attention in the matter of pruning is essential in keeping the trees in a healthy, robust condition. As explained in a previous chapter, the trees should be started right by pruning the first season to the open-head or vase shape, which fur- nishes the maximum of light and air to all parts of the tree. Three or four main branches should form the basis of the head, care being taken not to have them start from directly opposite points on the trunk, thus forming a crotch and leaving the tree liable to splitting from winds or excessive crops. If the tree is once started right, further pruning will give little trouble. Cut out limbs which cross, or are likely to rub against each other, or that are too close together; and also any that are broken, de- cayed, or injured in any way. For trees thus given proper attention from the start, a short jackknife will be the only pruning instrument required. The case of the old orchard is more difficult. Cutting out too many of the old, large limbs at one time is sure to give a severe shock to the vitality of the tree. A better plan is, first, to cut off close all suckers and all small new-growth limbs, except 212 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING a few of the most promising, which may be left to be developed into large limbs; and then as these new limbs grow on, gradually to cut out, using a fine-tooth saw and painting the exposed surfaces, the surplus old wood. Apples will need more prun- ing than the other fruits. Pears and cherries need the least; cutting back the ends of limbs enough to keep the trees in good form, with the removal of an occasional branch for the purpose of letting in light and air, is all the pruning they will require. Of course trees growing on rich ground, and well cul- tivated, will require more cutting back than those growing under poorer conditions. A further pur- pose of pruning is to effect indirectly a thinning of the fruit, so that what is grown will be larger and more valuable, and also that the trees may not be- come exhausted by a few exceptionally heavy crops. On trees that have been neglected and growing slowly the bark sometimes becomes hard and set. In such cases it will prove beneficial to scrape the bark and give a wash applied with an old broom. Whitewash is good for this purpose, but soda or lye answers the same purpose and is less disagreea- bly conspicuous. Slitting the bark of trunks and the largest limbs is sometimes resorted to, care being taken to cut through the bark only; but such prac- tice is objectionable because it leaves ready access to some forms of fungous disease and to borers, SPRAYING 213 Where extra fine specimens of fruit are desired, thinning is practiced. It helps also to prevent the tree from being overtaxed by excessive crops. But where pruning is thoroughly done this trouble is usually avoided. Peaches and Japan plums are especially benefited by thinning, as they have a great tendency to overbear. The spread of fruit diseases, especially rot in the fruit itself, is also to some extent checked. Of fruit-tree enemies there are some large sorts which may do great damage in short order—rab- bits and field mice. They may be kept away by mechanical protection, such as wire, or by heaping the earth up to a height of twelve inches about the tree trunk. Or they may be caught with poisoned baits, such as boiled grain in which a little Rough on Rats or similar poison has been mixed. The former method for the small home garden is little trouble, safer to Fido and Tabby, and the most re- liable in effect. Insects and scale diseases are not so easily man- aged; and that brings us to the question of spraying and of sprays. For large orchards the spray must, of course, be applied with powerful and expensive machinery. For the small fruit garden a much simpler and very moderate priced apparatus may be acquired. The most practical of these is the brass-tank com- 214 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING pressed-air sprayer, with extension rod and mist- spray nozzle. Or one of the knapsack sprayers may be used. Either of these will be of great assistance not only with the fruit trees, but everywhere in the garden. With care they will last a good many years. Whatever type you get, be sure to get a brass machine; as cheaper ones, made of other metal, quickly corrode from contact with the strong poisons used. APPLE ENEMIES The insects most commonly attacking the apple are the codlin-moth, tent-caterpillar, canker-worm and borer. The codlin-moth lays its eggs on the fruit about the time of the falling of the blossoms, and the larvze when hatched eat into the young fruit and cause the ordinary wormy apples and pears. Owing to these facts, it is too late to reach the trou- ble by spraying after the calyx closes on the grow- ing fruit. Keep close watch and spray immediately upon the fall of the blossoms, and repeat the spray- ing a week or so (not more than two) later. For spray use Paris green at the rate of 1 lb., or arsenate of lead (paste or powder, less of the latter: see accompanying directions) at the rate of 4 lbs. to 100 gallons of water, being careful to have a thor- ough mixture. During July, tie strips of burlap or old bags around the trunks, and every week or so Naser rete SU ay RY : A plum tree in full bearing. Low-h are come to stay. They are less liable to damage by wind and facilitate the gathering of fruit The efficiency thoroughness w —cover every sprayer with of spraying ith which twig, A extension the rod depends upon the liquid is applied compressed air tank is seen here SPRAYING 2s destroy all caterpillars caught in these traps. The tent-caterpillar may be destroyed while in the egg state, as these are plainly visible around the smaller twigs in circular, brownish masses. (See illus- tration.) Upon hatching, also, the nests are obtrusively visible and may be wiped out with a swab of old bag, or burned with a kerosene torch. Be sure to apply this treatment before the cater- pillar begins to leave the nest. The treatment recommended for codlin-moths is also effective for the tent-caterpillar. The canker-worm is another leaf-feeding enemy, and can be taken care of by the Paris green or arsenate spray. The railroad-worm, a small white maggot which eats a small path in all directions through the ripen- ing fruit, cannot be reached by spraying, as he starts life inside the fruit; but where good clean tillage is practiced and no fallen fruit is left to lie and decay under the trees, he is not apt to give much trouble. The borer’s presence is indicated by the dead, withered appearance of the bark, beneath which he is at work, and also by small amounts of sawdust where he entered. Dig him out with a sharp pocket- knife, or kill him inside with a piece of wire. The most troublesome disease of the apple, espe- cially in wet seasons, is the apple-scab, which dis- 216 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING figures the fruit, both in size and in appearance, as it causes blotches and distortions. Spray with Bor- deaux mixture, 5-5-50, or 3-3-50 (see formulas below) three times: just before the blossoms open, just as they fall, and ten days to two weeks after they fall. The second spraying is considered the most important. The San José scale is of course really an insect, though in appearance it seems a disease. It is much more injurious than the untrained fruit grower would suppose, because indirectly so. It is very tiny, being round in outline, with a raised center, and only the size of a small pinhead. Where it has once obtained a good hold it multiplies very rapidly, makes a scaly formation or crust on the branches, and causes small red-edged spots on the fruit (see illustration). For trees once infested, spray thor- oughly both in fall, after the leaves drop, and again in spring, before growth begins. Use lime-sulphur wash, or miscible oil, one part to ten of water, thor- oughly mixed, CHERRY ENEMIES Sour cherries are more easily grown than the sweet varieties, and are less subject to the attacks of fruit enemies. Sweet cherries are troubled by the curculio, or fruit-worm, which attacks also peaches and plums. Cherries and plums may be sprayed, when most of the blossoms are off, with a SPRAYING 217 strong arsenate of lead solution, 5 to 8 Ibs. to 100 gals. water. In addition to this treatment, where the worms have once got a start, the beetles may be destroyed by spreading a sheet around and be- neath the tree, and every day or so shaking or jarring them off into it, as described below. PEACH ENEMIES Do not spray peaches. For the curculio, within a few days after the flowers are off, take a large sheet of some cheap material to use as a catcher. For large orchards there is a contrivance of this sort, mounted on a wheelbarrow frame, but for the home orchard a couple of sheets laid upon the ground, or one with a slit from one side to the center, will answer. If four short, sharp-pointed stakes are fastened to the corners, and three or four stout hooks and eyes are placed to reunite the slit after the sheet is placed about the tree, the work can be more thoroughly done, especially on uneven ground. After the sheet is placed, with a stout club or mallet, padded with a heavy sack or something similar to prevent injury to the bark, give a few sharp blows, well up from the ground. This work should be done on a cloudy day, or early in the morning—the colder the better—as the beetles are then inactive. If a considerable number of beetles are caught the operation should be repeated every two or three days. Continue until the beetles disappear, 218 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING Peaches are troubled also by borers, in this case indicated by masses of gum, usually about the crown. Dig out or kill with a wire, as in the case of the apple-borer. Look over the trees for borers every spring, or better, every spring and fall. Another peach enemy is the “yellows,” indicated by premature ripening of the fruit and the forma- tion of stunted leaf tufts, of a light yellow color. This disease is contagious and has frequently worked havoc in whole sections. Owing to the work of the Agricultural Department and the vari- ous State organizations it is now held in check. The only remedy is to cut and burn the trees and replant, in the same places if desired, as the disease does not seem to be carried by the soil. PEAR ENEMIES Pears are sometimes affected with a scab similar to the apple-scab, and this is combated by the same treatment—three sprayings with Bordeaux. A blight which causes the leaves suddenly to turn black and die and also kills some small branches and produces sores or wounds on large branches and trunk, offers another difficulty. Cut out and burn all affected branches and scrape out all sores. Disinfect all sores with corrosive sublimate solution —1 to 1000—or with a torch, and paint over at once. SPRAYING 219 PLUM ENEMIES Plums have many enemies but fortunately they can all be effectively checked. First is the curculio, to be treated as described above. For leaf-blight—spotting and dropping off of the leaves about midsummer—spray with Bordeaux within a week or so after the falling of the blos- soms. This treatment will also help to prevent fruit-rot. In addition to the spraying, however, thin out the fruit so that it does not hang thickly enough for the plums to come in contact with each other. In a well kept and well sprayed orchard black-knot is not at all likely to appear. It is very manifest wherever it starts, causing ugly, black, distorted knarls, at first on the smaller limbs. Remove and burn immediately, and keep a sharp watch for more. As this disease is supposed to be carried by the wind, see to it that no careless neighbor is supplying you with the germs. As will have been seen from the above, spraying poisons are of two kinds: those that work by con- tact, which must be used for most sucking insects, and germs and fungous diseases; and those that poison internally, used for leaf-eating insects. Of the former sort, Bordeaux mixture is the standard, although within the last few years it has been to a considerable extent replaced by lime-sulphur mix- 220 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING tures, which are described below. Bordeaux is made in various forms. That usually used is the 5-5-50, or 5 lbs. copper sulphate, 5 lbs. unslaked lime, 50 gals. water. To save the trouble of making up the mixture each time it is needed make a stock solution as follows: dissolve the copper sulphate in water at the rate of 1 Ib. to 1 gal. This should be done the day before, or at least several hours before, the Bordeaux is wanted for use. Suspend the sulphate crystals in a cloth or old bag just below the surface of the water. Then slake the lime in a tub or tight box, adding the water a little at a time, until the whole attains the consistency of thick milk. When necessary, add water to this mixture if it is kept too long; never let it dry out. When ready to spray, pour the stock copper sulphate solution into the tank in the proportion of 5 gals. to every 50 of spray required. Add water to amount re- quired. Then add stock lime solution, first diluting about one-half with water and straining. The amount of lime stock solution to be used is deter- mined as follows: at the druggist’s get an ounce of yellow prussiate of potash dissolved in a pint of water, with a quill in the cork of the bottle so that it may be dropped out. (It is poison.) When adding the stock lime solution as directed above, continue until the prussiate testing solution when dropped into the Bordeaux mixture will no longer SPRAYING 221 turn brown; then add a little more lime to be on the safe side. All this sounds like a formidable task, but it is quite simple when you really get at it. Remember that all you need is a few pounds each of quicklime and copper sulphate, an ounce of prus- siate of potash and a couple of old kegs or large pails, in which to keep the stock solutions. Lime-sulphur mixtures can be bought, or mixed by the home orchardist. They have the advantages over Bordeaux that they do not discolor the foliage or affect the appearance of the fruit. Use accord- ing to directions, usually about I part to 30 of water. These may be used at the same times and for the same purposes as Bordeaux. Lime-sulphur wash is used largely in commercial orcharding, but it is a nasty mess to prepare and must be used in late fall or winter. For the home orchard one of the miscible oils now advertised will be found more satisfactory. While they cost more, there is no time or expense for preparation, as they mix with cold water and are immediately ready for use. They are easier to apply, more comfortable to handle, and will not so quickly rot out pumps and spraying apparatus. Like the sulphur wash, use only during late fall and winter. Kerosene emulsion is made by dissolving Ivory, soft, whale-oil, or tar soap in hot water and adding (away from the stove, please!) kerosene (or crude 222 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING oil); % Ib. soap, 1 gal. water, 2 gals. kerosene. Immediately place in a pail and churn or pump until a thick, lathery cream results. This is the stock solution: for use, dilute with five to fifteen times as much water, according to purpose applied for— on dormant fruit trees, 5 to 7 times; on foliage, 10 or even I5. Of the poisons for eating-insects, arsenate of lead is the best for use in the fruit orchard, because it will not burn the foliage as Paris green is apt to do, and because it stays on longer. It can be used in Bordeaux and lime-sulphur mixtures, thus kill- ing two bugs with one spray. It comes usually in the form of a paste—though there is now a brand in powder form (which I have not yet tried). This should be worked up with the fingers (it is not poison to touch) or a small wooden paddle, until thoroughly mixed, in a small quantity of water and then strained into the sprayer. Use, of the paste forms, from one-fourth to one Ib. in 20 gals. clear water. Paris green is the old standard. With a modern duster it may be blown on pure without burning, if carefully done. Applied thus it should be put on during a still morning, before the dew goes. It is safer to use as a spray, first making a paste with a small quantity of water, and then adding balance of water. Keep constantly stirred while spraying. SINGING IL LInyd NOWWOD FAL dO OMI apeos osof ueg YyyM ‘oyeos gsof ues pajseyur A[peq 38imzy wing YUM payoeye seo wind er CF: eo Plums slightly infested with San José scale and its attendant discoloration Male scale surrounded by young scales in various sizes—greatly enlarged HARVESTING 223 If lime is added, weight for weight with the green, the chances of burning will be greatly reduced. For orchard work, 1 Ib. to 100 gals. water is the usual strength. The accompanying table will enable the home orchardist to find quickly the trouble with, and remedy for, any of his fruit trees. The quality of fruit will depend very largely upon the care exercised in picking and storing. Picking, carelessly done, while it may not at the time show any visible bad results, will result in poor keeping and rot. If the tissue cells are broken, as many will be by rough handling, they will be ready to cause rotten spots under the first favorable conditions, and then the rot will spread. Most of the fruits of the home garden, which do not have to undergo ship- ping, will be of better quality where they ripen fully on the tree. Pears, however, are often ripened in the dark and after picking, especially the winter sorts. Apples and pears for winter use should be kept, if possible, in a cold, dark place, where there is no artificial heat, and where the air will be moist, but never wet, and where the thermometer will not fall below thirty-two degrees. Upon exceptionally cold nights the temperature may be kept up by using an oil stove or letting in heat from the furnace cel- lar, if that is adjacent. In such a place, store the fruit loosely, on ventilated shelves, not more than ‘ed—a4 ‘uedQ—O savedde aol, ysiqtym BunoA uaym ‘ounf Jo Ae ssunOssOre = a ‘ur dn MOOI *sAeq—p “UOIS|NUTS BUaSOII ‘a1ojag—q ‘PUY, STBOS [[aYS-19}SAC, “‘Buuds Ajiva 10 [yey aye | * ged OF UL T ‘Po aqiostw : paynyip Auy Seuny: sf boise 2ues022%. 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Butunid uado! mydns-auiy sowing * QO-uMOIg | Yveg “Cunt 288) sjaays U0 yoyeQ =“ ABIds jouog | “quejdes—aos} wing pue yno |Ing : OTT Ms wt to yno 31q | prea? ee wool Aare ‘O09 ur 4yno esate) oe ae a10jaq HIg : *4oI-yINI “(anid aas) aou0 Fe WIN pue yNo yn) “youy- We es e soul} ¢ “(wing 39s) Asay) Ag &—'t |soyoye oymomg = ‘oor ul g ‘peat JO ayeuasry foes onmoing ‘Pp SI J—Pp Si J—sasojo xAJeO O—D GF q—" PF pt “o$-S-S xnvaplog |°*"""** qYysIq yeayT ‘O © q—reedde ssavay usypA—'z Pe “uaein) SUeg IO pea] JO ayeuasry |** “yyour-png “Bulids Ajitva Jo |[ej aye |" ap 1e8 or url) [Io a[qrostur Jo (sauty $ aan) | uOoIs[Niua aUsso1ay ysea inydins-auryq |**** *“aqru-r199si[q ‘sysou wing Jo yno adi osye ‘aaoge se aules |" * se[[idrayeo-quaL, "7" -ga0qe se auleg [* ++” uLIOMIayUeD ‘poe j—g gq ez Rink Sutnp sdeiy Joy Yunsz uo spueq deyjing alddy OOLUT I ‘UaaIH Sle IO S001 ut ve ‘peal JO ajeuasry “++ yjour ulppog Sutids pue [ey Ul OJ yoswas Sas YA [Pf JO gyno Big [rst t cts ras0g (“A0Teq AEH 99G) “S}MJj uaT[ey Te AOJI}Sap pue dn HoIg |* ws0M peosyie Jo yosseu-aiddy ‘p tI J—J3 Gg P—O g Q—'E | Aids inydjns-ewy Jawuins JO ‘o$-s-§ xnvapiog |‘ **"** “qeos-ajddy NHHAM GNV Alddv OL SAWIL AGaWau sad 1inda HARVESTING 22'6 six or eight inches deep If they must be kept in a heated place, pack in tight boxes or barrels, being careful to put away only perfect fruit, or pack in sand or leaves. Otherwise they will lose much in quality by shriveling, due to lack of moisture in the -atmosphere. With care they may be had in prime ‘ quality until late in the following spring. Do not let yourself be discouraged from growing your own fruit by the necessity for taking good care of your trees. After all, you do not have to plant them every year, as you do vegetables, and they yield a splendid return on the small invest- ment required. Do not fail to set out at least a few this year with the full assurance that your satisfac- tion is guaranteed by the facts in the case, 15 CuHapter XVIII BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS ESIDES the tree-fruits discussed in the pre- ceding chapters, there is another class which should be represented in every home garden—the berries and small fruits. These have the advantage of occupying much less room than the former do and are therefore available where the others are not. The methods of giving berries proper cultivation are not so generally known as the methods used with vegetables. Otherwise there is no reason why a few of each should not be included in every garden of average size. Their requirements are not exact- ing: the amount of skill, or rather of attention, re- quired to care for them is not more than that required by the ordinary vegetables. In fact, once they are well established they will demand less time than the annual vegetables. Of these small fruits the most popular and useful are: the strawberry, the blackberry, dewberry and raspberry, the currant, gooseberry and grape. (226) uns PUL IY WINUIXeUT dy} 493 0} SOITM JIAO JNO PIyrjas}S Udy} ‘YSIY Jor} INOF 10 9a1y4} A[UO MOIS 0} paqtursad are sauta oy TL ‘MOIZ ULD UIPIeS sWOY oy} Sdodd SNOIdI[op SOW Pue jsoins ay} JO aUO dIv sodvI4 S x . ry > tol we + Ca 5 ee Keer eek a eae a rhe These currant bushes, though fifteen years old, are kept pruned down to three feet in height. They bear fruits that are as large as cherries BERRIES AND SMALL FRuits 234 The strawberry is the most important, and most amateurs attempt its culture—many, however, with indifferent success. This is due, partly at least, to the fact that many methods are advocated by suc- cessful growers, and that the beginner is not likely to pick out one and stick to it; and further, that he is led to pay more attention to how many layers he will have, and at what distance he will set the plants, than to proper selection and preparation of soil and other vital matters. The soil should be well drained and rich—a good garden soil being suitable. The strawberries should not follow sod or corn. If yard manure is used it should be old and well rotted, so as to be as free as possible from weed seeds. Potash, in some form (see Fertilizers) should be added. The bed should be thoroughly prepared, so that the plants, which need careful transplanting, may take hold at once. A good sunny exposure is preferable, and a spot where no water will collect is essential. The plants are grown from “layers.” They are taken in two ways: (1) by rooting the runners in the soil; and by layering in pots. In the former method they are either allowed to root themselves, or, which gives decidedly better results, by selecting vines from strong plants and pushing them lightly down into the soil where the new crown is to be formed. In the second method, two-inch or three-inch pots 228 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING are used, filling these with soil from the bed and plunging, or burying, them level with the surface, just below where the crown is to be formed, and holding the vine in place with a small stone, which serves the additional purpose of marking where the pot is. In either case these layers are made after the fruiting season. SETTING THE PLANTS In using the soil-rooted layers, it is generally more satisfactory to set them out in spring, as soon as the ground can be worked, although they are sometimes set in early fall—August or September— when the ground is in very good condition, so that a good growth can at once be made. Care should be used in transplanting. Have the bed fresh; keep the plants out of the soil as short a time as possible; set the plants in straight, and firm the soil; set just down to the crown—do not cover it. If the soil is dry, or the season late, cut off all old leaves before planting; also shorten back the roots about one- third and be sure not to crowd them when setting, for which purpose a trowel, not a dibble, should be used if the condition of the ground makes the use of any implement necessary. If so dry that water must be used, apply it in the bottom of the hole. If very hot and dry, shade for a day or two. BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS 229 METHODS OF GROWING I describe the three systems most valuable for the home garden: (1) the hill, (2) the matted row, and (3) the pot-layered. (1) In the hill system the plants are put in single rows, or in beds of three or four rows, the plants one foot apart and the rows, or beds, two or three feet apart. In either case each plant is kept separate, and all runners are pinched off as fast as they form, the idea being to throw all the strength into one strong crown. (2) In the matted row system the plants are set in single rows, and the runners set in the bed at five or six inches each side of the plants, and then trained lengthways of the row, this making it a foot or so wide. The runners used to make these secondary crowns must be the first ones sent out by the plants; they should be severed from the parent plants as soon as well rooted. All other runners must be taken off as they form. To keep the beds for a good second crop, where the space between the rows has been kept cultivated and clean, cut out the old plants as soon as the first crop of berries is gathered, leaving the new ones—layered the year before—about one foot apart. (3) The pot-layering system, especially for a small number of plants, I consider the best. It will be seen that by the above systems the ground is occupied three years, to get two crops, and the 230 HoMeE VEGETABLE GARDENING strawberry season is a short one at best. By this third system the strawberry is made practically an annual, and the finest of berries are produced. The new plants are layered in pots, as described above. The layers are taken immediately after the fruit is gathered; or better still, because earlier, a few plants are picked out especially to make runners. In either case, fork up the soil about the plants to be layered, and in about fifteen days they will be ready to have the pots placed under them. The main point is to have pot plants ready to go into the new bed as soon as possible after the middle of July. These are set out as in the hill system, and all runners kept pinched off, so that a large crown has been formed by the time the ground freezes, and a full crop of the very best berries will be assured for the following spring. The pot-layering is repeated each year, and the old plants thrown out, no attempt being made to get a second crop. It will be observed that ground is occupied by the strawberries only the latter half of the one season and the beginning of the next, leaving ample time for a crop of early lettuce, cabbage or peas before the plants are set, say in 1911, and for late cabbage or celery after the bed is thrown out, in 1912. Thus the ground is made to yield three crops in two years —a very important point where garden space is limited. BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS 231 CULTIVATION Whatever system is used—and each has its advo- cates—the strawberry bed must be kept clean, and attention given to removing the surplus runners. Cultivate frequently enough to keep a dust mulch between the rows, as advocated for garden crops (page 102). At first, after setting, the cultivation may be as deep as three or four inches, but as the roots develop and fill the ground it should be re- stricted to two inches at most. Where a horse is used a Planet Jr. twelve-tooth cultivator will be just the thing. MULCHING After the ground freezes, and before severe cold sets in (about the Ist to the 15th of December) the bed should be given its winter mulch. Bog hay, which may be obtained cheaply from some nearby farmer, is about the best material. Clean straw will do. Cover the entire bed, one or two inches over the plants, and two or three between the rows. If neces- sary, hold in place with old boards. In spring, but not before the plants begin to grow, over each plant the mulch is pushed aside to let it through. Besides giving winter protection, the mulch acts as a clean even support for the berries and keeps tne roots cool and moist. 232 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING INSECTS AND DISEASE For white-grub and cut-worm see pages 165, 167. For rust, which frequently injures the leaves so se- riously as to cause practical loss of crop, choose hardy varieties and change bed frequently. Spray- ing with Bordeaux, 5-5-50, four or five times during first season plants are set, and second season just before and just after blossoming, will prevent it. In making up your strawberry list remember that some varieties have imperfect, or pistillate blossoms, and that when such varieties are used a row of some perfect-flowering (bi-sexual) sort must be set every nine to twelve feet. VARIETIES New strawberries are being introduced con- stantly ; also, they vary greatly in their adaptation to locality. Therefore it is difficult to advise as to what varieties to plant. The following, however, have proved satisfactory over wide areas, and may be depended upon to give satisfaction. Early crop: —Michel’s Early, Haverland, Climax; mid-season crop:—Bubach No. 5, Brandywine, Marshall, Nic. Ohmer, Wm. Belt, Glen Mary, Sharplesss; late crop: —The Gandy, Sample, Lester Lovett. The blackberry, dewberry and raspberry are all treated in much the same way. The soil should be BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS 233 well drained, but if a little clayey, so muchethe better. They are planned preferably in early spring, and set from three or four to six or seven feet apart, according to the variety. They should be put in firmly. Set the plants in about as deep as they have been growing, and cut the canes back to six or eight inches. Jf fruit is wanted the same season as bushes are set, get a few extra plants—they cost but a few cents—and cut back to two feet or so. Plants fruited the first season are not likely to do well the following year. Two plants may be set ina place and one fruited. If this one is exhausted, then little will be lost. Give clean cultivation frequently enough to maintain a soil mulch, as it is very neces- sary to retain all the moisture possible. Cultiva- tion, though frequent, should be very shallow as soon as the plants get a good start. In very hot seasons, if the ground is clean, a summer mulch of old hay, leaves or rough manure will be good for the same purpose. In growing, a good stout stake is used for each plant, to which the canes are tied with some soft material. Or, a stout wire is strung the length of the row and the canes fastened to this—a better way, however, being to string two wires, one on either side of the row. Another very important matter is that of prun- ing. The plants if left to themselves will throw 234 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING up altogether too much wood. This must be cut out to four or five of the new canes and all the canes that have borne fruit should be cut and burned each season as soon as through fruiting. The canes, for instance, that grow in 1911 will be those to fruit in 1912, after which they should be imme- diately removed. The new canes, if they are to be self-supporting, as sometimes grown, should be cut back when three or four feet high. It is best, however, to give support. In the case of those varieties which make fruiting side-shoots, as most of the black raspberries (blackcaps) do, the canes should be cut back at two to three feet, and it is well also to cut back these side shoots one- third to one-half, early in the spring. In cold sections (New York or north of it) it is safest to give winter protection by “laying down” the canes and giving them a mulch of rough material. Having them near the ground is in itself a great protection, as they will not be exposed to sun and wind and’ will sometimes be covered with snow. For mulching, the canes are bent over nearly at the soil and a shovelful of earth thrown on the tips to hold them down; the entire canes may then be covered with soil or rough manure, but do not put it on until freezing weather is at hand. Ifa mulch is used, it must be taken off before growth starts in the spring. AyoreA doid-ureut pavpueys & “|]eysseyy SdIIIIYMBIJS 9}L] YS9q BY} JO auo ‘Apuery Strawberry plants are propagated plants are , A | : aha J - by what is called pot-layering. Runners from the old pegged down in pots until they take root and form new plants BERRIES AND SMALL FRuITs O35 THE BLACKBERRY The large-growing sorts are set as much as six by eight feet apart, though with careful staking and pruning they may be comfortably handled in less space. The smaller sorts need about four by six. When growth starts, thin out to four or five canes and pinch these off at about three feet; or, if they are to be put on wires or trellis, they may be cut when tied up the following spring. Cultivate, mulch and prune as suggested above. Blackberries will do well on a soil a little dry for raspberries and they do not need it quite so rich, as in this case the canes do not ripen up sufficiently by fall, which is essential for good crops. If grow- ing rank they should be pinched back in late August. When tying up in the spring, the canes should be cut back to four or five feet and the laterals to not more than eighteen inches. Blackberry enemies do not do extensive injury, as a rule, in well-cared-for beds. The most serious are: (1) the rust or blight, for which there is no cure but carefully pulling and burning the plants as fast as infested; (2) the blackberry-bush borer, for which burn infested canes; and (3) the recently introduced bramble flea-louse, which resembles the green plant-louse or aphis (page 161) except that it is a brisk jumper, like the flea-beetle, The leaves 236 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING twist and curl up in summer and do not drop off in the fall. On cold early mornings, or wet weather, while the insects are sluggish, cut all infested shoots, collecting them in a tight box, and burn. BLACKBERRY VARIETIES As with the other small fruits, so many varieties are being introduced that it is difficult to give a list of the best for home use. Any selections from the following, however, will prove satisfactory, as they are tried-and-true:—Early King, Early Harvest, Wilson Junior, Kittatinny, Rathburn, Snyder, Erie. THE DEWBERRY This is really a trailing blackberry and needs the same culture, except that the canes are naturally slender and trailing and therefore, for garden cul- ture, must have support. They may be staked up, or a barrel hoop, supported by two stakes, makes a good support. In ripening, the dewberry is ten to fourteen days earlier than the blackberry, and for that reason a few plants should be included in the berry patch. Premo is the earliest sort, and Lucre- tia the standard. RASPBERRY The black and the red types are distinct in flavor, and both should be grown. The blackcaps need BERRIES AND SMALL Fruits 237 more room, about three by six or seven feet; for the reds three by five feet will be sufficient. The blackcaps, and a few of the reds, like Cuthbert, throw out fruiting side branches, and should have the main canes cut back at about two and a half feet to encourage the growth of these laterals, which, in the following spring, should be cut back to about one-third their length. The soil for raspberries should be clayey if possible, and moist, but not wet. RASPBERRY ENEMIES The orange rust, which attacks the blackberry also, is a serious trouble. Pull up and burn all in- fested plants at once, as no good remedy has as yet been found. The cut-worm, especially in newly set beds, may sometimes prove destructive of the sprouting young canes. For treatment see page 165. The raspberry-borer is the larva of a small, flat- tish, red-necked beetle, which bores to the center of the canes during summer growth, and kills them. Cut and burn, RASPBERRY VARIETIES Of the blackcaps, Gregg, McCormick, Munger, Cumberland, Columbian, Palmer (very early), and Eureka (late), are all good sorts. Reds: Cuthbert, Cardinal (new), Turner, Reliance, The King (extra early), Loudon (late). Yellow: Golden Queen. 238 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING CURRANTS The currant and gooseberry are very similar in their cultural requirements. A deep, rich and moist soil is the best—approaching a clayey loam. There need be no fear of giving too much manure, but it should be well rotted. Plenty of room, plenty of air, plenty of moisture, secured where necessary by a soil or other mulch in hot dry weather, are essen- tial to the production of the best fruit. The currant will stand probably as much abuse as any plant the home gardener will have to deal with. Stuck in a corner, smothered in sod, crowded with old wood, stripped by the currant-worm, it still struggles along from year to year, ever hope- fully trying to produce a meager crop of poor fruit. But these are not the sort you want. Although it is so tough, no fruit will respond to good care more quickly. To have it do well, give it room, four or five feet each way between bushes. Manure it liberally; give it clean cultivation, and as the season gets hot and dry, mulch the soil, if you would be certain of a full-sized, full-flavored crop. Two bushes, well cared for, will yield more than a dozen half- neglected ones. Anywhere north of New York a full crop every year may be made almost certain. SPINIF 9[Qe}-jsepyvoiq AIO eySIVeS Suryeu Ayjaf Joy Apsepnoised sour 9} JO 9uO are Ayenb Jo sariaqyor[g_ pue a[qe} a4} JO} syuviind uMO MOA MOID r = r = Saas For what you would pay for these you c ould buy a dozen good raspberry plants—enough with a little care to yield several dozen boxes of fine fruit the following season Gooseberries like these may be grown In every ‘garden. With the advent of modern sprays the dreaded mildew may be held in check BERRIES AND SMALL FRuITS 239 PRUNING CURRANTS Besides careful cultivation, to insure the best of fruit it is necessary to give some thought to the matter of pruning. The most convenient and the most satisfactory way is to keep it in the bush form. Set the plants singly, three or four feet apart, and so cut the new growth, which is generously pro- duced, as to retain a uniform bush shape, preferably rather open in the center. The fruit is produced on wood two or more years old. Therefore cut out branches either when very small, or not until four or five years later, after it has borne two or three crops of fruit. Therefore, in pruning currants, take out (1) super- fluous young growth; (2) old hard wood (as new wood will produce better fruit; and (3) all weak, broken, dead or diseased shoots; (4) during sum- mer, if the tips of the young growths kept for fruit- ing aré pinched off, they will ripen up much better —meaning better fruit when they bear; (5) to maintain a good form, the whole plant may be cut back (never more than one-third) in the fall. In special situations it may be advisable to train the currant to one or a few main stems, as against a wall; this can be done, but it is less convenient. Also it brings greater danger from the currant- borer. 240 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING The black currant, used almost entirely for culi- nary or preserving purposes, is entirely different from the red and white ones. They are much larger and should be put five to six feet apart. Some of the fruit is borne on one-year-old wood, so the shoots should not be cut back. Moreover, old wood bears as good fruit as the new growth, and need not be cut out, unless the plant is getting crowded, for several years. As the wood is much heavier and stronger than the other currants, it is advisable gradually to develop the black currants into the tree form. ENEMIES OF THE CURRANT The worst of these is the common currant-worm. When he appears, which will be indicated by holes eaten in the lower leaves early in spring, generally before the plants bloom, spray at once with Paris green. Ifa second brood appears, spray with white hellebore (if this is not all washed off by the rain, wipe from the fruit when gathered). For the borer, cut and burn every infested shoot. Examine the bushes in late fall, and those in which the borers are at work will usually have a wilted appearance and be of a brownish color. VARIETIES OF CURRANTS Red Dutch, while older and smaller than some BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS 241 of the newer varieties, is hardier and not so likely to be hurt by the borer. London Market, Fay’s Prolific, Perfection (new), and Prince Albert, are good sorts. White Grape is a good white. Naples, and Lee’s Prolific are good black sorts. THE GOOSEBERRY This is given practically the same treatment as the currant. It is even more important that it should be given the coolest, airiest, location possi- ble, and the most moist soil. Even a partially shaded situation will do, but in such situations extra care must be taken to guard against the mildew— which is mentioned below. Summer mulching is, of course, of special benefit. In pruning the gooseberry, it is best to cut out to a very few, or even to a single stem. Keep the head open, to allow free circulation of air. The extent of pruning will make a great difference in the size of the fruit; if fruit of the largest size is wanted, prune very close. All branches drooping to the ground should be removed. Keep the branches, as much as possible, from touching each other. GOOSEBERRY ENEMIES The currant-worm attacks the gooseberry also, and is effectively handled by the arsenate of lead, 16 242 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING. Paris green or hellebore spraying, mentioned above. The great trouble in growing gooseberries suc- cessfully is the powdery mildew—a dirty, whitish fungous growth covering both fruit and leaves. It is especially destructive of the foreign varieties, the culture of which, until the advent of the potassium sulfide spray, was being practically abandoned. Use 1 oz. of potassium sulfide (liver of sulphur) to 2 gals. water, and mix just before using. Spray thor- oughly three or four times a month, from the time the blossoms are opening until fruit is ripe. GOOSEBERRY VARIETIES Of the native gooseberries—which are the hard- iest, Downing and Houghton’s Seedling are most used. Industry is an English variety, doing well here. Golden Prolific, Champion, and Columbus, are other good foreign sorts, but only when the mildew is successfully fought off. THE GRAPE No garden is so small that there cannot be found in it room for three or four grape-vines; no fruit is more certain, and few more delicious. If it is convenient, a situation fully exposed to the sun, and sloping slightly, will be preferable. But any good soil, provided only it is rich and thor- oughly drained, will produce good results, BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS 243 If a few vines are to be set against walls, or in other out-of-the-way places, prepare the ground for them by excavating a good-sized hole, putting in a foot of coal cinders or other drainage material, and refilling with good heavy loam, enriched with old, well rotted manure and half a peck of wood ashes. For culture in the garden, such special preparation will not be necessary—although, if the soil is not in good shape, it will be advisable slightly to enrich the hills. One or two-year roots will be the most satisfac- tory to buy. They may be set in either fall or spring—the latter time, for New York or north, being generally preferable. When planting, the cane should be cut back to three or four eyes, and the roots should also be shortened back—usually about one-third. Be sure to make the hole large enough, when setting, to let the roots spread natu- rally, and work the soil in well around them with the fingers. Set them in firmly, by pressing down hard with the ball of the foot after firming by hand. They are set about six feet apart. GRAPE PRUNING As stated above, the vine is cut back, when plant- ing, to three or four eyes. The subsequent pruning —and the reader must at once distinguish between pruning, and training, or the way in which the vines 244 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING are placed—will determine more than anything else the success of the undertaking. Grapes depend more upon proper pruning than any other fruit or vegetable in the garden. Two principles must be kept track of in this work. First principle: the an- nual crop is borne only on canes of the same year's growth, springing from wood of the previous sea- son’s growth, Second principle: the vine, if left to itself, will set three or four times the number of bunches it can properly mature. Asa result of these facts, the following system of pruning has been de- veloped and must be followed for sure and full-sized crops. (1) At time of planting, cut back to three or four eyes, and after these sprout leave only one (or two) of them, which should be staked up. (2) Following winter (December to March), leave only one cane and cut this back to three or four eyes. (3) Second growing season, save only two canes, even if several sprout, and train these to stake or trellis. These two vines, or arms, branching from the main stem, form the foundation for the one- year canes that bear the fruit. However, to pre- vent the vine’s setting too much fruit (see second principle above) these arms must be cut back in order to limit the number of fruit-bearing canes that will spring from them, therefore: (4) Second winter pruning, cut back these arms BERRIES AND SMALL FRuits 245 to eight or ten buds—and we have prepared for the first crop of fruit, about forty bunches, as the fruit- ing cane from each bud will bear two bunches on the average. However these main arms will not bear fruiting-canes another year (see first principle above) and therefore: (5) At the third winter pruning, (a) of the canes that bore fruit, only the three or four nearest the main stem or trunk are left; (b) these are cut back to eight or ten buds each, and (c) everything else is ruthlessly cut away. pete A B c D The dotted portions of the grape vines indicate what should be cut away: A, when setting; B, following winter; C, a year later; D, each winter thereafter. Each succeeding year the same system is con- tinued, care being taken to rub off, each May, buds or sprouts starting on the main trunk or arms. The wood, in addition to being cut back, must 246 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING be well ripened; and the wood does not ripen until after the fruit. It therefore sometimes becomes necessary to cut out some of the bunches in order to hasten the ripening of the rest. At the same time the application of some potash fertilizer will be helpful. If the bunches do not ripen up quickly and pretty nearly together, the vine is overloaded and being damaged for the following year. The matter of pruning being mastered, the ques- tion of training is one of individual choice. Poles, trellises, arbors, walls—almost anything may be used. The most convenient system, however, and the one I would strongly recommend for practical home gardening for results, is known as the (modi- fied) Kniffen system. It is simplicity itself. A stout wire is stretched five or six feet above the ground; to this the single main trunks of the vine run up, and along it are stretched the two or three arms from which the fruiting-canes hang down. They occupy the least possible space, so that garden crops may be grown practically on the same ground. I have never seen it tried, but where garden space is limited I should think that the asparagus bed and the Kniffen grape-arbor just described could be combined to great advantage by placing the vines, in spaces left for them, directly in the asparagus row. Of course the ground would have to be ma- nured for two crops, A 2-8-10 fertilizer is right BERRIES AND SMALL FRUuITS 247 for the grapes. If using stable manure, apply also ashes or some other potash fertilizer. If the old-fashioned arbor is used, the best way is to run the main trunk up over it and cut the laterals back each year to two or three eyes. The most serious grape trouble which the home gardener is likely to encounter is the black-rot. Where only a few grapes are grown the simplest way of overcoming this disease is to get a few dozen cheap manila store-bags and fasten one, with a couple of ten-penny nails, over each bunch. Cut the mouth of the bag at sides and edges, cover the bunch, fold the flaps formed over the cane, and fasten. They are put on after the bunches are well formed and hasten the ripening of the fruit, as well as protecting it. On a larger scale, spraying will have to be resorted to. Use Bordeaux, 5-5-50, from third leaf’s appearance to middle of July; balance of season with ammoniacal copper carbonate. The spray should be applied in particular just before every rain—especially on the season’s growth. Be- sides the spraying, all trimmed-off wood, old leaves and twigs, withered bunches and grapes, or “mum- mies,’ and refuse of every description, should be carefully raked up in the spring and burned or buried. Also give clean culture and keep the main stems clean. The grape completes the list of the small fruits 248 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING worth while to the average home gardener. If you have not already experimented with them, do not let your garden go longer without them. They are all easily obtained (none costing more than a few cents each), and a very limited number will keep the family table well supplied with healthy delica- cies, which otherwise, in their best varieties and condition, could not be had at all. The various operations of setting out, pruning and spraying will soon become as familiar as those in the vegetable garden. There is no reason why every home gar- den should not have its few rows of small fruits, yielding their delicious harvests in abundance. CuarTer XIX A CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS NE of the greatest difficulties in gardening is to get things started ahead at the proper time, and yet upon the thoroughness with which this is done the success of the garden must depend, in large measure. The reader may remember that in a previous chapter (Chapter IV) the importance of accurately planning the work ahead was emphasized. I men- tioned there the check list used to make sure that everything would be carried out, or started ahead at the proper time—as with the sowing of seeds. The following garden operations, given month by month, will serve not only as a timely reminder of things to be done, but as the basis for such a check list. The importance of the preparations in all matters of gardening, is of course obvious. JANUARY Probably one of the good resolutions made with the New Year was a better garden for the coming (249) 250 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING summer. The psychologists claim that the only hope for resolutions is to nail them down at the start with an action—that seems to have more ef- fect in making an actual impression on the brain. So start the good work along by sending at once for several of the leading seed catalogues. Planting Plan, Make out a list of what you are going to want this year, and then make your Plant- ing Plan. See pages 18, 20. Seeds. Order your seed. Do tt now while the seedsman’s stock is full; while he is not rushed; while there is ample time to rectify mistakes if any occur. Manures. Altogether too few amateur gardeners realize the great importance of procuring early every pound of manures, of any kind, to be had. It often may be had cheaply at this time of year, and by composting, adding phosphate rock, and several turnings, if you have any place under cover where it can be collected, you can double its value before spring. Frames. Even at this season of the year do not fail to air the frames well on warm days. Prac- tically no water will be needed, but if the soil does dry out sufficiently to need it, apply early on a bright morning. Onions. It will not be too early, this month, to sow onions for spring transplanting outside. Get a CALENDAR Qe packet each of Prizetaker, Ailsa Craig, Mammoth Silver-skin, or Gigantic Gibraltar. See facing p. 118. Lettuce. Sow lettuce for spring crop under glass or in frames. Fruit. This is a good month to prune grapes, currants, gooseberries and peach trees, to avoid the rush that will come later. FEBRUARY Hotbeds. A little early for making them until after the 15th, but get all your material ready— manure, selected and stacked; lumber ready for any new ones; sash all in good repair. Starting Seeds. First part of the month, earliest planting of cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce should be made; and two to four weeks later for main early crop. At this time also, beets and earliest celery. Tools. Overhaul them all now; order repairs. Get new catalogues and study new improvements and kinds you do not possess. Poles and brush. Whether you use the old-fash- ioned sort (now harder to obtain than they used to be) or make your “poles” (facing p. 106) and use wire trellis for peas, attend to it now. Fruit. Finish up last month’s work, if not all done. Also examine plum and cherry trees for black-knot, See page 219. 252 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING MARCH Hotbeds. If not made last of February, should be made at once. Some of the seed sown last month will be ready for transplanting and going into the frames; also lettuce sown in January. Radish and carrot (forcing varieties) may be sown in alternat- ing rows (page 109). Give much more air; water on bright mornings; be careful not to have them caught by suddenly cold nights after a bright warm day. Seed-sowing nnder glass. Last sowing of early cabbage and early summer cabbages (like Succes- sion), lettuce, rhubarb (for seedling plants), cauli- flower, radish, spinach, turnip, and early tomatoes; towards last of month, late tomatoes and first of peppers, and egg-plant. Sweet peas often find a place in the vegetable garden; start a few early, to set out later; they will do better than if started out- side. Start tomatoes for growing in frames. For early potatoes sprout in sand (page 112). Planting, outside. If an early spring, and the ground is sufficiently dry, sow onions, lettuce, beet, radish, (sweet peas), smooth peas, early carrot, cab- bage, leek, celery (main crop), and turnip. Set out new beds of asparagus, rhubarb and sea-kale (be sure to try a few plants of the latter; see page 125). Manure and fork up old beds of above. CALENDAR 253 Fruit. Prune now, apple, plum and pear trees. And this is the last chance for lime-sulphur and miscible-oil sprays. APRIL Now the rush is on! Plan your work, and work your plan. But do not yield to the temptation to plant more than you can look out for later on. Remember it is much easier to sow seeds than to pull out weeds. The Frames. Air! water! and do not let the green plant-lice or the white-fly get a ghost of a chance to start. Almost every day the glass should be lifted entirely off. Care must be taken never to let the soil or flats become dried out; toward the end of the month, if it is bright and warm, begin watering towards evening instead of in early morn- ing, as you should have been doing through the ‘winter. If proper attention is given to ventilation and moisture, there will not be much danger from the green plant-louse (aphis) and white-fly, but at the first sign of one fight them to a finish. Use kerosene emulsion, tobacco dust, tobacco prepara- tions, or Aphine. See pages 158, 172. Seed sowing. Under glass: tomato, egg-plant and peppers. On sod: corn, cucumbers, melons, early squash, lima beans. Planting, outside. Onions, lettuce, beet, etc., if 254 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING not put in last month; also parsnip, salsify, parsley, wrinkled peas, endive. Toward the end of this month (or first part of next) second plantings of these. Set out plants of early cabbage (and the cabbage group) lettuce, onion sets, sprouted pota- toes, beets, etc. In the Garden. Cultivate between rows of sowed crops; weed out by hand just as soon as they are up enough to be seen; watch for cut-worms and root-magegots. Fruit. Thin out all old blackberry canes, dew- berry and raspberry canes (if this was not done, as it should have been, directly after the fruiting sea- son last summer). Be ready for first spraying of early-blossoming trees. Set out new strawberry beds, small fruits and fruit trees. MAY Keep ahead of the weeds. This is the month when those warm, south, driving rains often keep the ground too wet to work for days at a time, and weeds grow by leaps and bounds. Woe betide the gardener whose rows of sprouting onions, beets, carrots, etc., once become green with wild turnip and other rapid-growing intruders. Clean cultiva- tion and slight hilling of plants set out are also essential. The Frames, These will not need so much atten- CALENDAR 255 tion now, but care must be taken to guard tender plants, such as tomatoes, egg-plant and peppers, against sudden late frosts. The sash may be left off most of the time. Water copiously and often. Planting, outside. First part of the month: early beans, early corn, okra and late potatoes may be put in; and first tomatoes set out—even if a few are lost—they are readily replaced. Finish setting out cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, beets, etc., from frames. Latter part of month, if warm: corn, cu- cumbers, some of sods from frames and early squash as traps where late crop is to be planted or set. Page 162. Fruit. Be on time with first sprayings of late- blossoming fruits—apples, etc. Rub off from grape vines the shoots that are not wanted. JUNE Frequent, shallow cultivation! Firm seeds in dry soil (facing p. 93). Plant wax beans, lima beans, pole beams, melons, corn, etc., and successive crops of lettuce, radish, etc. Top-dress growing crops that need special ma- nure (such as nitrate of soda on onions). Prune tomatoes, and cut out some foliage for extra early tomatoes. Toward end of month set celery and late cabbage. Also sow beans, beets, corn, etc., for early fall crops. Spray where necessary. Allow asparagus to grow to tops, 256 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING Fruit. Attend to spraying fruit trees and cur- rants and gooseberries. Make pot-layers of straw- berries for July setting. Page 227. JULY Maintain frequent, shallow cultivation. Set out late cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, leeks and celery. Sow beans, beets, corn, etc., for late fall crops. Irri- gate where needed. Fruit. Pinch back new canes of blackberry, dew- berry and raspberry. Rub off second crop of buds on grapes. Thin out if too many bunches; also on plums, peaches and other fruit too thick, or touch- ing. Pot-layered strawberries may be set out. AUGUST Keep the garden clean from late weeds—espe- cially purslane, the hot-weather weed pest, which should be always removed from the garden and burned or rotted down. Sow spinach, rutabaga turnip, bush beans and peas for last fall crop. During first part of month, late celery may still be put out. Sow lettuce for early fall crop, in frames. First lot of endive should be tied up for blanching. Fruit. Strawberries may be set, and pot-layered plants, if wanted to bear a full crop the following season (see page 228), should be put in by the 15th Thin out and bag grapes (page 246). CALENDAR 257 SEPTEMBER Frames. Set in lettuce started in August. Sow radishes and successive crop of lettuce. Cooler weather begins to tell on late-planted crops. Give cabbage, cauliflower, etc., deeper cultivation. “Han- dle” celery wanted for early use (page 122). Harvest and store onions (page 178). Get squash under cover before frost. From the 15th to 25th sow spinach, onions, borecole for wintering over. Sow down thickly to rye all plots as fast as cleared of summer crops; or plow heavy land in ridges. Attend to draining. Fruit. Trees may be set. Procure barrels for storing fruit in winter. At harvest time it is often impossible to get them at any price. OCTOBER Get ready for winter. Blanch rest of endive. Bank celery, to be used before Christmas, where it is. Gather tomatoes, melons, etc., to keep as long as possible. Keep especially clean and well culti- vated all crops to be wintered over. Late in the month store cabbage and cauliflower; also beets, car- rots, and other root crops. Get boxes, barrels, bins, sand or sphagnum moss ready beforehand, to save time in packing. Clean the garden; store poles, etc,, worth keeping N 258 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING over; burn everything else that will not rot; and compost everything that will. Fruit. Harvest apples, etc. Pick winter pears just before hard frosts, and store in dry dark place. NOVEMBER Frames. Make deep hotbeds for winter lettuce and radishes. Construct frames for use next spring (page 75). See that vegetables in cellar, bins, and sheds are safe from freezing. Trench or store celery for spring use. Take in balance of all root crops if any remain in the ground, except, of course, pars- nip and salsify for spring use. Put rough manure on asparagus and rhubarb beds. Get mulch ready for spinach, etc., to be wintered over, if they occupy exposed locations. Fruit. Obtain marsh or salt hay for mulching strawberries. Cut out old wood of cane-fruits— blackberries, etc., if not done after gathering fruit. Look over fruit trees for borers. DECEMBER Cover celery stored last month, if trenched out- of-doors. Use only light, loose material at first, gradually covering for winter. Put mulch on spinach, etc. Fruit. Mulch strawberries. Prune grape-vines (see page 242); make first application of winter sprays for fruit trees, CALENDAR 259 AND THEN set about procuring manures of all kinds from every available source. Remember that anything which will rot will add to the value of your manure pile. Muck, lime, old plastering, sods, weeds (earth and all), street, stable and yard sweepings—all these and numerous others will increase your garden suc- cesses of next year, CHAPTER XX CONCLUSION T is with a feeling in which there is something of fear that I close these pages—fear that many of those little things which become sec- ond nature to the grower of plants and seem unim- portant, but which sometimes are just the things that the beginner wants to know about, may have been inadvertently left out. In every operation described, however, I have tried to mention all necessary de- tails. I would urge the reader, nevertheless, to study as thoroughly as possible all the garden problems with which he will find himself confronted and to this end recommend that he read several of the many garden books which are now to be had. It must be to his advantage to see even the same subjects presented again from other points of view. The more familiar he can make himself, both in theory and in practice, with all the multitude of “opera- tions which modern gardening involves, the greater success will he attain. Personally, the further I have gone into the grow- (260) CONCLUSION 261 ing of things—and that has now become my busi- ness as well as my pleasure—the more absorbingly, interesting I find it. Each season, each crop, offers its own problems and a reward for the correct solu- tion of them. It is a work which, even to the begin- ner, presents the opportunity of deducting new conclusions, trying new experiments, making new discoveries. It is a work which offers pleasant and healthy recreation to the many whose days must be, for the most part, spent in office or shop; and it gives very substantial help in the world-old problem of making both ends meet. Let the garden beginner be not disappointed if he does not succeed, for the first season or two, or possibly three, with everything he plants. There is usually a preventable reason for the failure, and studious observation will reveal it. With the mod- ern success in the application of insecticides and fungicides, and the extension of the practice of irri- gation, the subject of gardening begins to be re- duced to a scientific and (what is more to the point) a sure basis. We are getting control of the uncer- tain factors. All this affects first, perhaps, the person who grows for profit, but with our present wide circulation of every new idea and discovery in such matters, it must reach soon to every remote home garden patch which is cared for by a wide- awake gardener. 262 HoMe VEGETABLE GARDENING Such a person, from the fact that he or she is reading a new garden book, I take the reader to be. I hope this volume, condensed though it is, has added to your fund of practical garden information ; that it will help to grow that proverbial second blade of grass. I have only to add, as I turn again to the problems waiting for me in field and under glass, that I wish you all success in your work—the making of better gardens in America. rec HEA fap a as! a } 4 ies ce ae een ee Eger eesrraety seat eae abr aha Spica eatesa ea sean Le a eee, eee