~ New York
State Cullege of Agriculture

At Gornell University
Dthaca, N.Y.

 

 

Library
Cornell University Library

Vegetable gardening and canning; a manual

mann
VEGETABLE GARDENING
AND CANNING

A MANUAL FOR GARDEN CLUBS

"BY
ARETAS W. NOLAN

ASSISTANT PROFESSOR AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION,
UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS

AND

JAMES H. GREENE

STATE LEADER, JUNIOR EXTENSION SERVICE,
' UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS

 

CHICAGQ NEW YORK
ROW, PETERSON AND .COMPANY
CopyRIcHT, 1917
ROW, PETERSON
AND COMPANY
INTRODUCTION

To THE PUPILS

If there has ever been need for garden clubs, indi-
vidual gardens, and gardens of every sort, it is now
when the cost of produce of all kinds has soared almost
out of our reach, not only because of its scarcity, but
because of the increased demand abroad as well. There
is not space here to tell you why this is so, but the fact
remains that if we would do ourselves, our families,
our communities, and our nation one of the greatest
possible services, we will find some plot available for
gardening and then do our best to win from it what
people call a bumper crop.

If I were to ask you what are some of the material,
or practical advantages of gardening, you would say
the food obtained, the healthfulness of outdoor work,
and the financial returns from that portion of the crop
which was marketed. Your answer would be only par-
tially correct. That is to say, you are right as far as
you go, but you do not go far enough. There are sev-
eral other things which the gardener gets along with
his hardening muscles, fresh vegetables, and increasing
bahk account. I shall not anticipate by telling them
all for IJ want you to find them for yourselves, but one
is the satisfaction that comes from seeing things de-
velop under one’s care; another is the acquaintance
you form with plants, and the knowledge you acquire
regarding their peculiarities of growth, their likes and

3
4 INTRODUCTION

dislikes as to food and care; still another is the quick-
ening of your powers of observation. These are the
gains from garden work that will remain to enrich
your lives long after the vegetables are eaten, or sold,
and the money is spent which you made by marketing
your crops.

In club gardening still other advantages are gained,
the most important of which is undoubtedly the ability
to do team work. Some of us who can do very good
work alone, have never learned to pull together. The
garden club cannot be a complete success unless its
members are willing to join hands in an effort to make
theirs the best gardens in the country. If this spirit
prevails throughout all the garden ventures, then there
will be a great number of successful gardens. But if by
some strange mischance no crop at all should result, the
fact that you had learned to work together would be a
fine reward to you. What I mean is this: aside from the
great value of the crop which your gardens will produce,
is that equally great moral value, which some of us do
not yet realize, of having learned to pull together.

With all these advantages in prospect, you must not
forget this certain principle that here as elsewhere one
does not ‘‘get something for nothing.’? Whether it is
the crop of vegetables, the bank account, or the moral
and physical training (or all combined), which you are
after, there must be work and plenty of it to insure
worth-while returns. But it must be intelligent effort,
not haphazard manual labor, for physical labor that
is not directed by mental effort will be disappointing
to all concerned. One can work, and work hard, and
yet deserve no particular eredit and win no worthy
reward, if he has worked blindly and without fixing
upon his goal before he started for it.
INTRODUCTION 5

Suppose a man desired to drive from ‘Chicago to St.
Louis, he would assuredly not start without ascertain-
ing at least in which direction St. Louis lies, or better
still, he would get a road map, or ‘failing in that he
would consult some one who had previously made the
‘trip. Yet there are many people who, having a piece
of ground which might make a profitable garden, will
cultivate it carelessly; put the seeds in without refer-
ence to the best results to be obtained, and then think
that the few radishes, cabbages, or other vegetables
which luck lets them harvest, are all there is to gar-
dening, and that ‘‘it doesn’t pay.’’

Some one in writing of gardens not long ago said,
“One must work the soil with brains as well as brawn.”’
This is why I have just reminded you that intelligent
planning must go hand in hand with manual endeavor.
If this is so, after the garden club is organized, and it
wants to know ‘‘What next ?’’, the answer should be;
‘*A suitable plot, a workable plan, good tools, and lots
of muscle.’’

One may garden for pleasure, or for profit, but the
garden club seems to make it possible to secure both
results.

“The best thing school gardening: does for young people is to
help prepare them for their larger life in the world.”—D.
WILLIAMS, :

J. C. Buair
Head of Department of Horticulture,

University of Illinois
CONTENTS

PAGE

ParT ONE, GARDEN PROJECT CALENDAR.......00eeeeeeeeees 7

Part Two. PRACTICAL EXERCISES........-.-+--2 ee cseeeees 18

1. The Garden Plans............ 0.0 e eens 18

2. Laying Out and Planting the School Garden 18

3. Cold Frames and Hot-Beds............... 20

4, Cultural Requirements of Vegetables...... 21

6 Making a Canner.............ce eee eee eee 23

6. Canning Corn and Peaches............... 24

7. A Canning Demonstration ............... 26

8. A Canning Contest ............ 000 e ee eee 29

9. Census of Food Preservation.............. 30

10. Outline for Studying Vegetables........ ee OL

Part THREE, VEGETABLE GARDENING.........000eeeeeeenee 33

Locating the Home Gar- Garden Pests............. 46

den suscsesee nemaawe-s 33 Diseases cs ..tei iw nsw sees 49

Preparation of the Soil.. 33 Preparing Market Products 49

The Seed Bed........... 34 “Arranging An Exhibit..... 52

Fertilizing the Garden...34 Saving Perishable Foods... 53

Laying Out the Garden.. 36 Why Foods Spoil......... 54

Selecting Varieties and Bacteria Like People...... 54

Seed tsvcsanoe seater 37 Protection of Food........ 55

Early and Late Plants.. 37 Bacteria a Menace........ 55

Planting Table.......... 38 What Are Ptomaines?..... 56

Seed Sowing............ 41 Keeping Foods Cool....... 57

The Hot-Bed............ 41 Canning a Safe Method... 57

Successful Transplanting. 41 Open Kettle Process..:... 58

Thinning Vegetables..... 44 Intermittent Method...... 58

Cultivation ............ 45 Cold Water Method....... 58

Garden Tools .......... 45 Cold Pack Method........ 58

APPENDIX, joc 3 giclee sagas deities Pe FO Salas Hees wea Tew 61

A Model Constitution and By-Laws....................-. 61

Parliamentary Practice: Hints and Suggestions........... 62

Garden: TRUDES) »scis:g-cjscsvene Cesivenny dha bonne d.a5a Gosia iasaeapagdoncetnmt at 64
Recommendations Concerning Companion and Succession

Crops for the Home Garden............ 00. e ence ee aee 64

List of Home Gardening Publications.................... 65

Srupent’s NOTEBOOK wacesvcoes.icaciw tienes caisacesasna se. BF
PART ONE

GARDEN PROJECT CALENDAR
JANUARY

1. Organization of the garden club. (See plans in
the appendix.) The elass in agriculture probably will
not find it practical to organize the garden club project
until this month. Each member of the class should be-
come a member of the garden club and plan to do all
the work outlined for the project. The plan should
receive the hearty cooperation of the pupils, teacher,
parents, and board of education. The state club leader
at the State College of Agriculture should be notified
of the organization of the club so that he can send
enrollment blanks and all such literature and publica-
tions as will be helpful in the progress of the work.

2. Selecting the garden. The first thing each pupil
should do after the organization of the club is to select
the ground upon which he is to grow his garden the
coming season. A garden plot not less than ten by
thirty feet should be chosen for this project. A good,
well drained, sandy loam, fertile soil with a sunny ex-
posure should be chosen for the garden.

‘8. Fertilizing the garden. If the garden spot has
not already been manured or otherwise fertilized, this
matter may be attended to now. Well rotted farm
manure at the rate of ten tons or more per acre should
be applied upon. the plot, to be plowed under as soon
as the ground is dried out in ‘the spring.

7
8 GARDEN PROJECT

4. Notebook work. Each pupil should keep a neat
and accurate record of all operations, results and ac-
counts on the record pages provided at the end of this
book, so that when the project is completed the pupil
will have an agricultural booklet he will be proud to
exhibit. Throughout the notebook work, pictures from
catalogs and farm papers may be pasted in or sketched
as the tastes and abilities of the pupil incline. Sug-
gestions for the notebook work will be made in this
calendar.

5. Clippings and pictures. Begin making clippings
from farm papers, catalogs, and other available sources
of pictures and of interesting garden articles for later
use in your notebook and class-room work.

FEBRUARY

1. Make a plan of the garden. On the page of your
agricultural notebook set apart for that purpose draw
a neat, careful plan of your garden plot. Draw it to
scale. Indicate the rows of vegetables you expect to
plant by dotted lines for first plantings and full lines
for later plantings. Make your drawing plan show
distance of rows apart and distances of plants in the
TOwS. —

2. Catalog studies. Send for seed catalogs and
study them as to prices and varieties of vegetables.
Decide upon the vegetables and the varieties you are

going to plant. List these in your notebook. Later;

in the month, if you plan to send to a seed house, you
should make out your order so as to get the seeds in
plenty of time. It is nearly always possible to get
good seeds of a local dealer. Use only standard varie-
ties adapted to the locality.
GARDEN PROJECT CALENDAR 9

3. Seed testing. Make tests of small seeds. Study
the per cent of germination. See practical exercises
for details.

4. Garden implements. Study garden implement
catalogs. Learn to identify garden implements and
to know their uses. List the implements you have at
home for garden work. Go over your home imple-
ments, clean, oil, and sharpen them up for the spring
work. . :

5. The signboard. Each member of the class should
make and letter a signboard to be placed in the garden
or at some place on the home grounds where it may be
seen if the garden is not by a road or street. This sign-
board should be 12 by 18 inches, planed on one side.
It should bear the name of the local club preceded by
the word ‘‘Member,’’ as—

 

MEMBER
Home Ciry
_ GARDEN. CLUB

 

 

 

' The lettering may be done by means of a stencil cut
from cardboard. The letters may be cut from adver-
tisements or made by some member of the class.
These are then laid on the cardboard, their outline
drawn with a pencil, and the letters cut out. The sign-
board may then be painted white, and the letters black:

Marcu

1. Make a hot-bed. See details of construction
given in the practical exercises. Every pupil carrying
on a garden project should make and care for a hot-
10 GARDEN PROJECT

bed, in order to get the experience as well as the prac-
tical returns in early seedlings.

 

1. A Hot-Bep aT ScHooL

2. Flats. Construct ‘‘flats’’ 3x16x22 inches, and
fill them with prepared sandy loam soil. At least two
flats for each pupil should be made. Sow seeds of
head lettuce and cabbage in one and eelery seed in the
other. Keep these flats moistened and in a warm room
until ready for the transplanting of the seedlings.

38. Plowing the garden. If the weather permits
and the ground is dried out sufficiently, the garden
plot may be spaded up or plowed this month. If the
manure has not already been applicd as suggested for
January, well rotted farm manure should be spread
before plowing. If the soil is a stiff clay, it may be
improved by the addition of sand. Plow deeply, cov-
ering all crop residue and manure.

4. Testing for soil acidity. Apply strips of blue
litmus paper to moistened lumps of the garden soil.
If the paper turns pink or red, the soil is sour and
needs lime. Apply over the plowed surface air-slacked
lime at the rate of a ton per acre.

5. Seed bed preparation. After plowing the ground,
GARDEN PROJECT CALENDAR 11

it should be harrowed and re-harrowed until the soil
is crumbled into as fine a seed bed as it is possible to
make. Bone meal at the rate of 300 pounds per acre
may be sown broadcast over thé ground as a fertilizer,
and be harrowed into the soil.

6. Preparation for planting. Mark off the rows ac-
cording to the plan of seeding shown on your garden
plan, and prepare to plant the seeds of some of the.
earlier vegetables. (See planting table given under
the discussion. )

APRIL

1. Planting. Ifa rain should beat down the plowed
soil of the garden before planting can be done, the
ground should be thoroughly harrowed again, and put
in good ‘‘onion tilth’’ before seeding. For middle lati-
tudes, during this month, plant onion sets, radishes,
spinach, lettuce, peas, beets, carrots, parsnips, turnips,
potatoes, and early sweet corn. See directions in dis-
cussions and tables given later for details of planting
vegetables. Directions are also given on seed packages
purchased. Firm the earth well over all seeds planted.
Record every operation done under the proper heading
in the notebook.

2. Transplanting. Transplant cabbages and head
lettuce from flats:to the garden. Shift tomatoes from
hot-bed to cold frame. Shift celery seedlings to small
flats 2x2 inches. These flats may be placed in cold
frames.

3. Cultivation. Cultivate with a wheel hoe and
hand hoe all crops that have come up. Keep the un-
planted portion of the garden harrowed.

4. Flowers. It would be well to sow seeds of some
annual flowers about the borders of the garden, such
12 GARDEN PROJECT

as petunias, four-o’clocks, cosmos, dwarf sunflowers,
zinnias, ete.

May

1. Care and cultivation. Real work begins in the
garden now. Pests will come and weeds will grow.
The first thing that needs attention after seeding will
be the weeds. It may be necessary to pull many wecds
by hand, but whether by hand or hoe, the weeds must
go. A loose, shallow soil mulch should be maintained
at all times. The best tool for cultivation is a wheel
hoe. It will usually be necessary to use the common
hand hoe to put on the finishing touches. As soon after
a rain as the ground is pliable and mellow the soil
mulch should be provided.

 

 

2. A GARDEN CLUB

2. Planting. Plant beans, sweet corn, cucumbers,
melons, squash and pumpkin. Follow directions given
in planting tables, as to varieties and methods of
planting.

3. Transplanting. Transplant cabbage, tomatoes,
GARDEN PROJECT CALENDAR 13

and celery to the garden rows. Bed sweet potatoes
for slips in the hot-bed.

4. Thinning. Where some of the plants are grow-
ing too thickly, it will be necessary to thin them out.
.Thin and weed onions, beets, carrots, parsnips, ete.

5. Harvesting. Harvest radishes, leaf lettuce,
bunch onions, spinach, and peas.

6. Bookkeeping. Do not fail to record all garden
business and work under the proper headings in your
notebook.

 

 

3. A MAn’s Jos

JUNE AND JULY

1. Cultivation. Sce directions under (1) given for
May.

2. Insect pests. Combating insect pests will be an
early problem.

(a) The striped melon beetle will attack the melons
and cucumbers as soon as they appear. If there are
only a few hills, it is practical to protect them by
14 GARDEN PROJECT

covering with small screen-covered bottomless boxes.
Tobacco dust, lime, ete., are repellents often success-
fully used.

(b) Large insects such as tomato worms, squash
bugs, and various caterpillars may be picked off by
hand and killed.

(ec) For small leaf-eating insects, such as the cab-
bage worm, potato-bug, etc., a solution of lead arsenate
(about a teaspoonful to a gallon of water) sprayed
upon the plants is effective.

(d) Plant lice may be combated with Tobacco Con-
coction or ‘‘Black Leaf 40.’’

(e) Ordinary blights and rots of garden vegetables
are controlled by Bordeaux Mixture.

3. Special care. Some of the plants of the garden
will need special handling as the season advances.
Tomatoes may be tied up to stakes; beans and peas,
if of the pole variety, will neeel supports; celery will
need blanching devices, etc. See directions for special
treatment of such vegetables in the chapter discussions.

4. Harvesting. Continue harvesting as suggested
in May. Harvest head lettuce, bunch onions, peas, ete.
Follow directions given in the chapter on putting up
an attractive vegetable pack for the market.

5. Succession cropping. To utilize the garden in-
tensively, such crops as peas, radishes, lettuce, turnips,
etc., maturing early, should be removed and followed
by a succession crop of the same or another vegetable
as the demands of the home or market require.

6. Late planting. Plant sweet potatoes, late sweet
corn, turnips, beans, late cabbage, etc., as succession
crops.
GARDEN PROJECT CALENDAR 15
AUGUST

1. Care and cultivation. Continue the care and
cultivation as suggested for the other summer months.
The season may become dry and hot, but proper care
and cultivation may often win out against these odds.
Do not allow any weeds to go to seed.

2. Late planting. Late plantings of beans, beets,
sweet potatoes, turnips, carrots and mustard may be
feasible in some seasons at this time, even in middle
latitudes.

38. Harvesting. Continue the harvesting of garden
crops maturing this month. Study and practice good
methods of grading, bunching, packing, basketing, and
otherwise marketing the garden vegetables you have
for sale. :

4. Canning. (See special calendar for this work.)

5. Visiting. Visit home and truck gardens to com-
pare crops, methods, etc., with those of your own.

SEPTEMBER AND OTHER AUTUMN MonrTHs

1. Visiting gardens. Visit home and truck gardens
if possible to observe and study how the fall crops are
handled. Get definite ideas of the yields of the various
crops and of the prices and costs of production.

2. Visiting markets. Visit the city markets and
note the assortment of vegetables, prices, packages,
and where they were grown. Make written reports of
these observations in your notebook.

3. Finishing work. Finish marketing, canning and
storing all vegetables from your garden. Allow nothing
to go to waste.

4,- Fairs. If there is to be a local fair or exhibit
16 GARDEN PROJECT

for garden club members, each pupil should prepare
under the direction of the club leader an exhibit of
canned goods or other produce from the garden for
the fair. Members of the club should visit a county
or state fair if possible, and report on a few pages of
their notebooks such observations on the vegetable
exhibits, under types, kinds, and principal characteris-
tics by which vegetables were judged and other inter-
esting notes so as to show an appreciation of what was
seen,

5. Cleaning up. Remove all coarse refuse from the
previous garden crops, and apply manure to the garden
site, to be plowed under either this fall or next spring
in preparation for the next season’s garden work.

Canning Club Calendar
Marcu

Canning demonstration by club leader or extension
worker. Methods of food preservation. What causes
food to spoil: (a) molds, (b) yeasts, (ec) bacteria. Ob-
ject of canning. Methods of canning. (NR series of
U.S. Dept. of Agr. canning bulletins.)

APRIL AND May

Advantages of cold pack method. Construct a home-
made canner, Canning of early vegetables and fruits

and use in diet. Examples: spring greens, asparagus,
rhubarb.

JUNE

Canning of vegetables and fruits. “Examples: peas,
early string beans, strawberries, cherries. Advan-
GARDEN PROJECT CALENDAR 17

tages of canning fruits and vegetables at proper stage
of maturity and as soon after picking as possible.

JULY

Canning vegetables and fruits. Examples: wax
beans, raspberries, currants, blueberries, blackberries,
gooseberries. Club picnic or play festival. Study of
reports. Cost of canning different products and:-com-
parison with prices of commercial products.

AuGuSsT

Canning of vegetables and fruits. Examples: green
corn, tomatoes, peaches, apricots, plums, apples.

SEPTEMBER

Preparation for exhibit. Study of containers, local
markets. Public canning demonstration or contest.
Canning of vegetables and fruits. Examples: young
carrots, beets, corn, tomatoes, grapes, peaches, pears,
apples.

OcTOBER

Study of other methods of food preservation. Stor-
age. Use of canned products. Uses of fruits and green
vegetables in the diet.

NoOvEMBER

Final reports and stories.
PART TWO

PRACTICAL EXERCISES

1. The garden plans. (a) Let each pupil carefully
draw to scale the plan of the vegetable garden as it is
laid out at his home.

(b) After this study let each pupil draw a garden
plan as he would carry it out in a home garden of
his own.

(ce) If it is feasible to have a school garden, let each
member of the class draw a plan of such a garden.

2. Laying out and planting the school garden. If
conditions at the school are favorable to the employ-
ment of labor all through the garden season and if.
sufficient land is near the school to justify such an
undertaking, it may be advisable to carry on a school.
garden. For a school garden the plan of making a
demonstration home garden for an average-sized family
is a good one. This plot should be planted and
eared for as a class enterprise. The addition of small
fruits and ornamental planting may make the whole
scheme a valuable practical piece of work in connec-
tion with the school study of vegetable gardening:
This garden should be carried on as nearly according
to directions and correct principles which are given
in the text as is possible. For individual work in
vegetable raising, the home project garden should
be used.

18
19

PRACTICAL EXERCISES

GARDEN PLAN (20 FT.x 30FT.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12 IN
LEAF LETTUCE
12 IN,
PEAS
121N, ( FOLLOWED BY PEPPERS) _
® IN AB rT
SPINAC
9 IN
KOHL-R. (- TURNIES
9 IN (FOLLOWED SY LATE BEANS)
RADISHES
8 IN. ‘
ONIC
12 IN. ( FOLLOWED BY LATE RADISHES AND LETTUCE)
ONION:
9 IN.
RADISHES
9 IN, f
BEETS <4} CARROTS
15 1 a
PAI
9 IN,
ADISHES~2 ND PLANT!
9 IN,
CABBAGE
12 1N, (FOLLOWED BY LATE TURNIPS)
HEAD LETTUCE
121N
PEAS-2ND PLANTING
12 IN, FOLLOWED 8Y BEANS
AS-2ND-PLANTIN
12 IN 3
a eer a
Le BY LATE BEET:
STRING aeAns———(POLLowen ¢ y s) WAX SEANS
24 IN
. TOMATOES
241N

 

4. A Garpren: PLAN :

 
20 GARDEN PROJECT

3. Cold frames and hot-beds. Since work with cold
frames and hot-beds comes during the school season,
it is by all means advisable to undertake this practical
exercise at school.

(a) Cold frames are devices for growing plants early
or hardening them off for the field by making use of
the heat of the sun through glass, without any founda-
tion heating. They regulate heat and moisture and
protect plants from heavy wind and dashing rain.

The standard size of the cold frame sash is three
by six fect, and the length of the cold frame will
depend upon the number of sashes to be used. Make
the frame six feet wide, eight inches high in front and
twelve inches high at the back, of either one-inch or

two-inch lumber. <A lean-to cold frame on the outside

 

5. A CotD FRAME

of a building may be made by nailing a two-by-four
piece of lumber against the building and constructing
the frame upon it. Good garden soil will furnish
the seed bed for the plants to be grown in the cold
frame.

(b) For a permanent hot-bed, a pit about two
PRACTICAL EXERCISES 21

feet in depth is dug. If it is desirable to make one
so large, the length may be six or nine feet, with a
width of three feet—the length of a window sash to
be used over it. The sides and ends of the pit are
supported by a lining of plank held by corner posts.
The plank frame should extend above the surface of
the ground eight inches at the front and twelve inches
at the back. The hot-bed is heated by horse manure,
containing straw bedding or one-third leaves. Pre-
pare the manure by stacking it in a compost heap,
turning it over every three or four days, and restack-
ing. After three or four days more, mix it carefully
and spread it evenly in the hot-bed pit, about fifteen
inches deep. Tramp down firmly. Scatter four or five
inches of good garden loam over the manure in the
hot-bed. Make frames for the sash, place them over
the hot-bed and allow the bed to heat up. Do not
plant any seeds in it until the temperature subsides
to at least 90 degrees.

Early lettuce, radishes, cabbages, tomatoes, egg-
plants and other vegetables may be sown thickly in
rows four or six inches apart in the hot-bed, and under
proper care by the time warm weather comes the
school will have plants from its own garden with which
to supply the club or neighborhood.

In addition to the sash, mats of carpet will be needed
on cold nights. During bright days, it may be neces-
sary to lift the sash a little to allow the hot air to
escape and give ventilation. Hot-beds should be.
watered in the morning on bright days.

Draw a plan of the hot-bed and keep a notebook
record of the work done.

4, Cultural requirements of vegetables. Place in
the notebook the following table and fill out the cul-
22

GARDEN PROJECT

 

 

  

 

   
  
 

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6. A Hor-Brep
PRACTICAL EXERCISES 23

tural requirements of the standard garden vegetables

grown.
Soil Season Care
Vegetables Requirements Requirements Requirements

a ey
Bee eee we we te te ee ll et tw ee
eee eee ee we ew ee te tee eee ll tt tt
cee ee ee ew ee ee mt we te ee lt tt te te

5. Making a canner. A wash boiler, a fifty-pound
lard tin or similar vessel with a lid may be used for a
“‘eold pack’’ canner, All else that is necessary is a
false bottom or rack platform which will lift the glass
jars from the bottom and permit the circulation of the
water under and around the jars.

In order to make a rack secure some strips of wood
one-half inch by one inch or one inch square. Make a
lattice-work platform that will fit in the improvised
canner, with open spaces between the strips of such
size that two fingers may be inserted. This may be
done by determining the approximate length of the
several pieces, nailing them together, and then by
placing the lid or bottom of the canner on the platform,
marking the outline of the bottom. Saw off the ends
of the strips about one-half inch back of the mark.
This will make it easy to get the platform in and out
of the eanner. Secure a piece of telephone wire of
such length that two loops of wire for handles may
be twisted around the platform, extending to the top
of the canner. A third piece of wire may be twisted
around these loops parallel to the platform at such a
height as to act as a guard rail and prevent the glass
jars from sliding off when a load is lifted in or out of

the canner.
24 GARDEN PROJECT

6. Canning corn and peaches. This exercise is given
in order to outline the method and procedure of the
cold pack process. For recipes for canning other prod-
ucts, see the NR Series listed under Exercise 7.

 

7. A Home-MApE CANNER

(a) Corn. Corn should be canned when it is in the
milk. Can as soon after gathering as possible, at least
the same day. If it is necessary to keep it for a short
time spread the ears out in a cool place.

Boil water for the canner in a teakettle and a gallon
or two-gallon stew kettle. The amount of water to be
heated will depend upon the amount of corn to be
canned. Fuel and time may be economized by not
filling the canner more than one-third full. Later the
water used for blanching and that left in the teakcttle
may be poured in.

While waiting for the water to boil remove the
husks, silks and shanks of the ears. When the water
PRACTICAL EXERCISES 25

in the stew kettle is boiling (boiling water is jumping),
place a half dozen ears in a square of cheese cloth or
muslin and tie the opposite corners. Immerse in the
kettle for from five to fifteen minutes. Remove and
plunge inte cold water. Remove and cut from the cob.
This is best done by placing the ear, butt down, in a
shallow pan or dish, cutting down with a sharp, thin
knife and scraping up.

The corn is then packed in the glass jars or tin cans

to within a quarter of an inch of the top. A teaspoon-
ful of salt and one of sugar per quart and boiling water
to fill up the jar, are added.
‘ Tin cans are sealed completely. Good rubbers and
tops are placed on the glass jars, but they are not
sealed completely. Mason jar tops are screwed down
tight and then turned back a quarter turn. Glass tops
with a wire bale are placed in position but the tighten-
ing lever is not pulled down. Economy jar lids and
metal bales-are placed in position.

The products are now ready for the canner. For
most products it is all right to wait until the rack is -
full and then to place the entire lot in the canner at
one time. Corn, however, should be put into the boil-
ing water as soon as it is packed in the jars. The first
few jars will not be completely immersed. but by the
time the canner is filled the water may be the required
inch over the top of the jars. If not, the bleaching
water and that left in the teakettle may be poured in,
as has been suggested. If the water is boiling, there
_ will be no danger of the blanching water getting into
the jars as inspection will show bubbles coming out.
The lid should then be placed on the canner and the
boiling continued for three hours in the case of quarts
and one-tenth less time in the case of pints. At the
26 GARDEN PROJECT

expiration of this time, the jars are removed and the
lids tightened. If it is found that a rubber has been
blown out of place it should not be pushed back but
removed and a new one substituted. The jar should
then be put back in the canner and sterilized for an-
other five minute period.

Corn on the cob may be canned by the same method
by using wide mouthed jars. This is not an economical
method of food preservation, however. All jars and
tops should be carefully inspected before use.

Be sure that Mason jar tops are smooth and touch
the rubber at all points. This may be determined by
screwing down the lid, without the rubber, and trying
to insert the thumb nail at different points. Be sure,
too, that the wire bale of glass topped jars comes into
place in the slot with a click. Defect may be remedied
by bending the wire in.

(b) Peaches. The canning of peaches differs from
that of corn in three respects: (1) The peaches are
‘‘hot-dipped’’ about one-half minute. (2) Syrup*
instead of water is poured over them. (3) Peaches
are sterilized in the hot-water canner for sixteen min-
utes only.

7. Acanning demonstration. The class should give
a public canning demonstration. Parents, patrons and
friends may be invited. It will add greatly to the
appearance of this demonstration if the members of
the demonstration team are attired in white aprons
and caps, bearing the official club insignia. Directions
for making these are given in a bulletin listed in the

 

*If sugar is high, fruit may be put up in water. For directions
for making syrup see NR-21, U. 8. Department of Agriculture,
Canning Leaflets,
PRACTICAL EXERCISES 27

*
references. The following equipment and material will

be needed:

1 Good Stove—This is most important—3 burner, gas, gasoline,
or kerosene. Ifa gasoline stove, be sure that the gasoline line
has no leaks; trim carefully the wicks of a kerosene stove.,

A convenient supply of clean, pure water.

long tables.

yards cheese cloth or muslin for blanching.

or 5 tea towels.

teakettle.,

‘water pails.

garbage pail.

stew kettles with lids.

small stew pan with handle (for making syrup).

large spoons.

forks. 7

paring knives. 3

-dish pans.

metal cup. :

dozen pint jars (glass)—any style—it will be more instructive
to have several kinds.

dozen rubbers—best quality. .

Sugar.

Salt.

1 or more kinds of vegetables.

1 or more kinds of greens.

1 or more kinds of fruits.

ere NOON = DN = ND HS DH LO

wo

Suggestions

1. Have chairs enough for the audience.

2. The demonstrator requires the services of two
women.

3. . He will plan to use boys and girls, when possible,
in preparing products.

4. Thoroughly test stoves and have hot water ready
when demonstrator arrives. This will save time. _

5. Do not provide too large quantities of materials

to be canned.
98 GARDEN PROJECT

6. Be sure perishable products are fresh.

7. The question of time at the disposal of the dem-
onstrator will determine the kind and quantities of
materials to be canned. Vegetables like corn, peas, and
beans require three hours in the home-made canner;
root and tuber vegetables and greens require ninety
minutes; fruits, ten to twenty minutes.

In giving the demonstration, the following points
should be explained. Information may be, obtained
from this booklet and from the references given below..
Such explanations may be given while waiting for
different steps in the process to be finished. A good
demonstrator works and talks at the same time.

Why Foods Spoil.
Methods of Food Preservation.
Methods of Canning.
Types of Canning Equipment.
The Cold Pack Process.
(a) Blanching, scalding and cold-dipping.
(b) Packing in containers.
(c) Making syrup.
(d) Jars and rubbers.
(e) Sterilization.

ore ca bh iS

Pertinent facts, recipes and steps in the process may
he placed on the blackboard to aid in the work, or
cloth or paper charts may be made by the class.

References

McConn—Yeasts, Molds and Bacteria. :
U. S. Department of Agriculture. NR Series of Canning Leaflets.

*These may be obtained free from your state club leader or ‘the
U. S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C.
PRACTICAL EXERCISES 29

NR-21—Home Canning Instructions—Methods and Devices.
NR-24—Home Canning Instructions.

NR-25—Additional Recipes.

NR-30—Canning Apples.

S-6—Home Canning Club Aprons and Caps.

8. A canning contest. This may be held in eonnec-
tion with a school exhibit, fair or agricultural short
course. Contests may be held between neighboring
school clubs at a county fair, a farmers’ institute or
similar gatherings.

Rules for Contest

1. Teams must consist of five members.

2. Entries limited to five teams.

3. Each team to demonstrate the canning of one
fruit and onfe vegetable:

Fruit—1 quart of apples (or other fruit selected by
committee).

Vegetables—1 quart tomatoes (or other vegetables
selected by committee).

Basis of Award

Time required ........... pereeeeeee 40
Quality of product................. 40
SKID, eh bse Mes eR Bae Bees 20

MOtal. ivi ecw ete anuuaekataveonee 100

(The canned products will remain the property of
the committee.)

4. Hach team must supply the following equipment
for the contest:
30 GARDEN PROJECT

oh KH OMe Ye

eee eae DOWD -

can or covered pail, lard can, or wash boiler, with false bottom.
tablespoons, 1 teaspoon, 1 long-handled spoon.

jar funnel. ,

measuring cup.

pans (for preparing fruit and vegetables).

covered pan (for syrup).

paring knives.

yards cheese cloth or a wire basket, for blanching products.
Small jar of salt.

Tea towels.

To be supplied by committee for each team:

gasoline or oil stoves (two or three burners).

tables (or one long one) with paper or oilcloth on top.
teakettle.

water pail (with supply of fresh clean water).

garbage can with cover. ;

pound white granulated sugar.

Jars enough for products (with a few extra).

-Good can rubbers.

pancake turners (to be bent and used in getting jars out of
canner).
Fruits and vegetables for canning (as specified).

No explanation of the cold pack process of canning

will be given during the contest. ‘The work must show
for itself. An explanation of club work, cold pack
process, etc., will be given before the contest starts, and
the club members will be expected to answer questions
on their work after the close of the contest. i

9. Census of food preservation. Let each member

of the class ascertain from each of ten or more families
the average amount and kind of products stored for
winter use, such as potatoes, meat, ete., and the method
of preservation, such as cold storage, pickling, salting,
drying, canning, etc. Let this information be collected
on the blackboard and finally recorded in the following
table:
PRACTICAL EXERCISES 31

No. of (Write in names of products (Record amounts
families and methods of preservation) here)

Be me we ee ee ee ee eee ee wee
a
Be ee ew ee ee ee ew

10. Outline for studying vegetables. A better crop
ean be produced if the grower knows, before planting
time, the soil requirements, cultural methods and har-
vesting possibilities of each vegetable grown in the
garden.

The following outline has been prepared for this pur-
pose. It is important that children fill out a sheet of
their notebook for each vegetable to be grown. Sub-
ject matter may be found in seed catalogs published
by local seed firms, in bulletins published by state ex-
periment stations, in bulletins published by the United
States Department of Agriculture, and in any good
book on vegetable production. Frequent conversations
with successful gardeners will tend to clear up some of
the things that are not understood:

Outline-

Name and variety of the vegetable to be planted.
Soil requirements.

Fertilizer requirements.

Method of propagation—seed, bulb, and tuber..

Seasons of planting. '
32 GARDEN PROJECT

Methods of planting.
_ 1. How far apart are the rows?
2. How far apart are the plants in the rows?
3. How deep is the seed, tuber, or plant planted?
4. How many seeds are needed for 100 feet of drill?
Location of the vegetable in the garden.
1. Is the vegetable sun-loving in its habits?
2. Is the vegetable shade-loving in its habits?
3. Will the vegetable shade or crowd other vegetables?
Care of the crop.
1 How often should the crop be cultivated?
2. What is the required distance between plants for the full
development of the vegetable?
3. Does this vegetable need to be transplanted?
4. Does this vegetable need to be staked?
5. Does this vegetable need to be blanched?
6. Does this vegetable need to be sprayed?
(a) What is the purpose of the spray?
(b) What is the best spray to use?
(c) How often should the crop be sprayed?
Harvesting.
1. When should this vegetable mature?
2. How is it prepared for home use?
3. What is the canning possibility?
4, Is there a market demand for this vegetable?
(a) How should it be prepared for market?
(b) What price should it bring?
5. What seeds can be selected for next year’s crop?
6. How is the fresh vegetable stored for winter use?
PART THREE

VEGETABLE GARDENING

Factors in locating the home garden. There are
several important factors in locating the home garden.
Convenience to the house is one of them. A southern
or southeastern slope will give the best results with
early vegetables. It should not be too steep, however,
for the crops may then suffer from the drought and
the heat of summer, and the land be liable to wash.
It is desirable to have lower ground below the garden
in order to allow for air and water drainage. If the
ground is not well drained naturally, it should, of
course, be tile-drained. In a level country it would
be well to provide some protection in the way of trees
or buildings on the northern side. These, however,
should not be too close to the garden. The kind of
soil is important. With most vegetables, sandy loam
will give the best results. One should not despair,
however, if he does not have the ideal soil, for most
of the common vegetables adapt themselves to a wide
range of soils. Where the slope of the site or the type
of soil varies appreciably, one should plant the crops
accordingly. For instance, sweet potatoes should be
planted on the higher and drier places, and they do
best in clay loams; watermelons like a sand ridge;
cucumbers and celery prefer the low, damp ground.

The mechanical preparation of the garden soil. The
ideal garden soil preparation is to manure and plow

33
34 GARDEN PROJECT

the land in the fall. This practice will aid in rotting
the manure and any other organic matter that has been
turned under. It always helps to destroy injurious in-
sects, injurious bacteria, and weeds. Furthermore, it
improves the physical texture of the soil. If the land
is naturally loose, it need not be plowed again in the
spring, especially for the early short-season crops. In
such case, disking or deep cultivation will be suffi-
cient. If the land is ‘‘tight,’’ or even in the case of
‘‘loose’’ textured soil which has become much packed
during the winter, it is better to plow again in the
spring.

The seed bed. The best way to prepare a seed bed
is as follows: first, disk and harrow; then plow, disk,
‘and harrow, in order, until the ground is thoroughly
pulverized and properly compacted. A drag should
be used if necessary to convert the surface to a finely
pulverized condition. In this connection the compact-
ing of the soil should be emphasized. Many people fail
to work the soil sufficiently because they fear it will.
pack the soil too much. This is a mistake, as most
plants need a somewhat compact soil in order to be
able to gain a foothold. The above method will insure
a fine pulverization of the soil to the full depth of the
plowing and a sufficiently compact soil as well.

Some vegetables cannot be planted until May or June.
In the case of land to be devoted to such crops a shallow
mulch should be maintained until planting time. This
will save the moisture and make the preparation of the
soil much easier. This fact is very important.

Fertilizing the garden. For the vegetable garden
manure is the best general fertilizer. It should be
applied in the fall and turned under. If, however, it is
applied in the spring, it is well to have rotted manure.
VEGETABLE GARDENING 35

Rotted manure is also sometimes used for top dressing
purposes for the growing crops. Lime should, be used
every few years, as the large amount of decaying or-
ganic matter in vegetable lands is constantly causing
the formation of acids in the soil. Crop refuse, unless
infected with some serious disease or insect, should
always be turned under in preference to removing or
burning it. The garden is a good place upon which to
burn all trash that accumulates about the yard or farm.
The ashes add both potassium and lime. Any organic
matter that will rot easily and quickly should be plowed
under; leaves, branches, etc., should be burned and
the ashes seattered. If manure is scarce, one can grow
cowpeas, soybeans, or rye to help keep up the supply
of organic matter.

Commercial fertilizers can often be used effectively
in the garden: For nitrogen, sodium nitrate is usually
the best form. It should be applied as a top dressing
to the growing plants, using 80 to 100 pounds per acre,
applied at intervals of from ten days to two weeks,
The nitrate should be scattered about the plants, care
being taken that none gets on the leaves. It should be
cultivated into the soil, and it may also be spread broad-
cast before or during a rain. The number of applica-
tions will depend upon the length of the growing sea-
son of the crop treated. In case of crops which bear
fruit it is not well to continue the applications of
sodium nitrate too long, as it may stimulate vine
growth at the expense of fruit production. Dried
blood also may be used as a source of nitrogen. Nitro-
gen in dried blood is not so subject to loss by drainage
waters as that in sodium nitrate. When this is em-
ployed, it may be applied in relatively large amounts
at the beginning of the season, as no injurious results
36 GARDEN PROJECT

come from the dried blood as in the case of sodium
nitrate. i

Steamed bone meal is a good form of phosphorus
for the vegetable garden. Phosphorus may be sup-
plied much cheaper by using raw rock phosphate, but
it must be applied two or three years in advance. The
use of acid phosphate is more justifiable in vegetable
growing where quick results are desired than in gen-
eral farming, though it carries with it some acid. If
lime is applied every two or three years, it will correct
any acidity that may accumulate in the soil.

Sulphate of potassium is a good form of potassium
to use on a vegetable garden. This element, while
abundant in most soils, will frequently cause added
yields, especially in the case of root crops. Wood
ashes are always an especially good form to use, and
all the wood ashes which accumulate on the farm
should be carefully stored away under cover so that
no leaching will occur. Wood ashes will nowhere give
better results than in the vegetable garden. Coal ashes
have no value as a fertilizer, though they can often be
used effectively in helping to loosen a ‘‘tight’’ soil.

Laying out the home garden. The laying out of the
garden will largely depend upon the ease of tending
and the most profitable use of the land. The vegeta-
bles should be planted in long rows rather than. in
patches. If not enough of one vegetable is used to
plant a whole row, two or three kinds can be grown
in a single row. The planting should be started on
one side of the garden and should proceed across it
with the season. It is hard to work up the soil if
patches are left between beds of growing vegetables.
The coarser crops that are cultivated with horse tools
should be grouped together as nearly as possible. The
VEGETABLE GARDENING 37

finer crops that are cultivated with wheel hoes should
also be placed together. The tall growing and the low
growing crops should be grouped with their kind, so
far as circumstances will permit. The vine crops
should be planted together, as should crops that are
planted at the same time and which require about the
same length of season to mature. This will allow for
the best use of the land for a second crop. The matter
of succession should not be overlooked. Usually the
succession crops can be planted where other vegetables
have been grown earlier in the season. The garden
properly planned will not only be easy to tend, but
will facilitate the production of crops throughout the
growing season.

Selecting varieties and getting good seed. The selec-
tion of the proper varieties is one of the most important
features in vegetable gardening, for no matter how
well other factors in successful growing are attended
to, they may come to naught if the wrong varieties are
selected. It is always best to place the main de-
pendence upon the standard and proved. varieties.
“‘Novelties’’ should be used for trial only until they
have proved themselves, no matter how enticing they
may appear in the seed catalogs.’ One should pay par-
ticular attention to selecting varieties that are adapted
to the season in which grown; for instance, one would
not want to use the same variety of sweet corn for the
early crop that he would use for the main season crop.

Seeds should be purchased from a reliable seedsman,
one who expects:to stay in the business and who has a
reputation to maintain.

Early season and late season plants. There is
perhaps no feature in vegetable gardening regarding
which more mistakes are made than the time of plant-
38 GARDEN PROJECT

ing the various crops. Most people do not realize that
the thirty or forty common vegetables which anyone
could name in a few minutes were brought here from
all parts of the earth, and that we can only succeed in
growing them here by furnishing them with relatively
the same conditions under which they originated and
developed. Naturally, coming from many widely dif-
ferent climates, each crop has its special temperature
and moisture requirements. We recognize this ten-
dency by growing them during a time of the year best
suited to their needs, and by planting them in moist
or dry locations according to their preferences. Hap-
pily, the thirty or forty different vegetables divide
themselves into groups according to the temperature
and moisture requirements, so that instead of it being
a problem of remembering thirty or forty different
cultural methods, we may reduce the number to a very
few by dividing the vegetables into groups.

All vegetables may be divided into two general
groups: ‘‘cold-season’’ and ‘‘warm-season’’ groups.
The cold-season crops are those which originated in
temperate climates, and the warm-season crops are
those which originated in the tropical and subtropical
regions.

Planting table. The following table takes into
account the seasonal requirements of various garden
crops and also indicates the varieties that should be
planted at different times. There are other varieties
which no doubt could well be added to this list, but
those named can be depended upon in general to give
satisfactory account of themselvés. By selecting the
varieties named and planting them as nearly as pos-
sible at the times mentioned, taking into consideration
the latitude of the place in which they are grown, the
VEGETABLE GARDENING

39

various vegetables can be had at all those times of the
year when it is possible to have fresh grown vegetables.

PLANTING DaTES AND VARIETIES RECOMMENDED FOR
FARMERS’ VEGETABLE GARDENS IN ILLINOIS

By C. E. Durst, Associate in Olericulture, University of Illinois.

Note.—The times for planting named are especially adapted
for central Illinois; in southern Illinois plant early crops from
one to two weeks earlier in each case, and in northern Illinois
about one week later.

 

 

 

ELANE: VARIETIES SUGGESTED FOR ILLINOIS
NG 2 ES? PLANTING

DATES

Peren-|Asparagus ..... Palmetto (Plant one year old roots in
nial ; early spring)

Crops |Rhubarb ....... Victoria or Linnaeus (Divide old roots

Winter Onions. .

and plant in early spring)
Egyptian (Replant the sets each year
about Sept. 1)

 

 

Potatoes ....... Early Ohio
Peas cess. sexs Alaska (climbing), American Wonder
(dwarf )
Onion Sets...... Yellow Bottom
April |Onion Seed ..... Southport Yellow Globe, Southport
1 White. Globe
Beets .......+6- Crosby’s Egyptian
|Turnips ......,|Early Purple Top Milan
Carrots .......-. Chantenay or Half Long
Parsnips ....... Hollow Crown or Improved Guernsey
Parsley .....--- Double Curled :
Radishes ...... Early Scarlet Turnip, White Strausburg
Spinach ....... Victoria or Long Standing
Leaf Lettuce..../Black Seeded Simpson
Radishes ....... White Strausburg
April |Head Lettuce...|May King (Start plants in hot-bed March

10.

 

- 1)
‘American Wonder or Gradus (climbing)

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

40 GARDEN PROJECT
Peay (VARIETIES SUGGESTED FOR ILLINOIS
ING Chor PLANTING
DatTEs :
Cabbage ....... Early Jersey Wakefield or Copenhagen
April Market (Start plants in hot-bed March
10 1)
Cauliflower .|Burpee’s Dry Weather (Start plants in
hot-bed March 1)
Cabbage ....... Early Summer (Start plants in hot-bed
about March 15)
May (String Beans.../Davis White Wax, Stringless Green Pod
1 Sweet Corn..... Golden Bantam
White Cob Cory
White Evergreen or Country Gentleman
Tomatoes ...... Chalk’s Jewel, Stone (Start plants
March 1 in hot-beds)
Lima Beans..... Henderson’s Bush, Lima
May |Cucumber ...:.. White Spine or Henderson’s Perfected
15 |Summer Squash./Fordhook, Giant Crookneck
Winter Squash. .|Hubbard
Watermelons ...|Halbert Honey or Kleckley Sweet
Muskmelons ....|Notted Gem, Hoodo, Osage
Sweet Corn..... White Evergeen or Country Gentleman
Eggplants ...... New York Improved Purple (Start
plants in hot-bed March 15)
June |Pepper ........ Chinese Giant, Red Cluster
1 [String Beans....|/Stringless Green Pod, Saddleback Wax
Sweet Potato..../Yellow Jersey
Sweet Corn..... White Evergreen or Country Gentleman
June |Late Potato..... Rural New Yorker
15 |Late Cabbage...|Flat Dutch, Danish Ball Head
Cucumbers .....|(for pickles) White Spine
Celery ......... Golden Self Blanching, Giant Pascal
July (Start plants in frames about Apr. 1)
1: |Beans .....,.../Stringless Green Pod, Saddleback Wax
Sweet Corn..... White Evergreen or Country Gentleman
July |Turnips ....... Red Top Strap Leaf
25 |Beans ......... Stringless Green Pod, Saddleback Wax
Aug. |Winter Radish. .|Chinese White, Long Black Spanish
15 |Fall Spinach....|/Dwarf Siberian

 

 
VEGETABLE GARDENING | 4)

Seed sowing. The importance of planting good seed
can hardly be overestimated. Upon the selection of
the seed often depends the success or failure of the
crop. The most important factors determining the
quality of the seed are viability and truth to name
and type. Good seed is reasonably free from weed
seeds and dirt, but the grower should be sure his seed
is clean before planting it. The best practice is to
plant fresh seeds, preferably not more than one year
old. Seeds should be stored in tight bags in cool dry
places. Successful seed sowing requires a thoroughly
prepared seed bed, because the more thorough the
preparation of the seed bed, the less work is required
to keep the ground in condition during the growing
season. In the home garden the seeds are usually
planted by hand by dropping them in the hills or fur-
rows previously prepared. After. planting, the soil
should be firmed by pressing it down with the back
of the hoe. For the best and quickest results, seed
should be planted in freshly prepared ground.

Advisability of the hot-bed. Hot-beds are practically
indispensable in the making ef a good vegetable gar-
den: Their greatest use is in starting plants for out-
door crops. By their help (in the case of some
vegetables) one can have earlier yields than is possible
from an outdoor crop, and what is more important he
can grow some crops which could not be otherwise
grown (long season crops like eggplants and sweet
potatoes, etc.). They can also be used for growing
such crops as lettuce or radishes to full maturity out
of their season.

Principles of successful transplanting. Transplant-
ing, while it must always be looked upon as more or
less injurious to the plants, is a necessity in vegetable
42 GARDEN PROJECT

gardening. It is used principally for inducing early
maturity; it also enables us to grow some crops like
eggplants which otherwise require too long a season.
By putting plants in hot-beds or frames, as long as they
can be so handled without injury, they can later be
planted in soil which has been freshly worked with the
assurance of an early yield; whereas if the seeds were
planted directly in the open, the young plants would
have to battle with bad weather and soil conditions at
the time when they could least endure it.

The time of planting the seeds will depend altogether
upon the crop grown. The operations will be facili-
tated if the seeds are sown in shallow flats, which may
be carried about as desired. When the plants have be-
gun to show their first pair of true leaves, they should
be shifted, which is nothing more or less than taking
them up from the seed flat and planting them in other
flats or in pots where they are given greater room. In
the case of eggplants and head lettuce, which do not
transplant easily, it is better to handle the plants in
pots than in flats, for they transplant to the open more
readily because their root systems are injured less.
Cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts, and
tomatoes can be very well handled in flats, or they
may be shifted to the open bed. Onions are sometimes
started in the hot-bed in order to secure a larger bulb,
but they are never shifted. Sweet potatoes are never
shifted. Beets are often started in greenhouses or hot-
beds, by market gardeners, to secure an earlier crop
but they too are never shifted.

A short time previous to planting in the field, the
plants should be transferred to a cold frame so that
they may ‘‘harden off.’’ A cold frame is like a hot-
bed with the exception that it has not bottom heat. -
VEGETABLE GARDENING 43

‘“Hardening off’? is the term applied to accustoming
the plants to the open weather conditions so that they
will not suffer from the transfer to the open. The cold
frame is covered for the first few nights and is left
open on all except cool days. Gradually the plants are
exposed to colder and colder weather, until finally the
covers are left off altogether for a few days or a week
previous to transplanting to the field. It should not
be overlooked that hardening off is an accustoming of
the plants to both the cold and the relatively dry open
field conditions. The plants should receive sufficient _
water to keep them from dying, but gradually the

amount of water applied should be reduced while they

are in the cold frame, so that finally they will get along

without the addition of any water.

It is. always desirable to let the soil in the cold
frame become rather dry for several days before trans-
planting. This, together with the exposure of the
plants to cold nights, will harden the tissues and fit’
them for transfer to the open soil. _A few hours before
the actual transplanting, the soil should be heavily
watered. The plants, being ‘‘thirsty,’’ will take up
enough water to fill their tissues, in which condition
they will be able to allow more transpiration. The
plants should not be removed from the: frames until
the soil has become mellow. Puddling the soil by
working it while wet should always be avoided. As
large a part of the root system as possible should be
removed with the plant, and it is well to leave as
much soil on the roots as will cling.

In transplanting plants to the field one should firm
the soil about the roots thoroughly. If a plant is prop-
erly transplanted, watering in the field is scarcely ever
necessary, but in the home garden one will insure a
44 GARDEN PROJECT

stand if he takes no chances and waters the vegetables.
When water is applied, it is always best to pour it
into a basin made about the plant, allowing it to dis-
appear, and then to cover the wet surface with mellow,
loose soil. The principal factor in causing the death
of plants is an excessive transpiration from the leaves.
The removal of a part of the top of the plant will
reduce the transpiration and often save it dur-
ing a dry period. Not all plants can be ‘‘sheared,’’
but onions, beets, celery, and to a certain extent cab-
bage, will not suffer. The best implement for trans-
planting, everything considered, is a pair of human
hands. Other serviceable tools are the garden trowel,
the dibber, and the spade. In commercial gardening,
a transplanting machine which sets the plants as
fast as a team of horses draws the machine is often
used.

Thinning vegetables. Plants must have sufficient
room if they are to develop properly. All excessive
plants are nothing more than weeds. With many vege-
table crops the planting is done in such a way as to
give plenty of room. Cabbage, tomatoes, sweet corn,
and beans are examples. With most of the small
seeded crops, however, the seeding is usually liberally
done on account of the weak embryo and the suscep-
tibility of the young plants to the weather and soil
conditions. However, even in such cases the planting
should be within certain bounds. Market gardeners
even go so far as to test the seeds in advance and
plant aceordingly, so as to insure a good stand and
yet prevent overcrowding. In this way little thinning
is necessary. The vegetables commonly planted in
drills in the field and which require thinning are beets,
parsnips, parsley, salsify, and onions. Melons and
VEGETABLE GARDENING 45

cucumbers are often planted thickly in the hill and
thinned when the plants have become well started.
The thinning of growths which are started-on the inside
and transplanted to the open field is accomplished by
shifting the plants to other flats or pots, as already .
explained, and setting them in the field, one in a
place. The thinning of all crops should be done as
early as the size of the plants will permit. In case of
onions, since they must be grown to a good size before
the plants will pull out without breaking off, the thin-
ning may be delayed somewhat. Thinning of the crops
insures specimens of larger and more uniform size, and
a much greater percentage of the product is marketable
or usable.

Cultivation. The control of weeds and provision for
a soil mulch is the most important work in the cultiva-
-tion of the garden. Some people actually doubt that

 

8. A WHEEL Hor

cultivation has much value if there are no weeds.
After each rain, as soon’as the ground will permit, a
shallow soil mulch should be made, and the erust
broken up.

Garden tools. Every garden should have a wheel
hoe. It will make gardening a pleasure instead of a
46 GARDEN PROJECT

drudgery. There are two kinds: the single wheel is
used between the rows, the best use of which is in-
sured when the rows of vegetables are planted exactly
parallel; the double wheel hoe, which like the two-
horse cultivator straddles the row, cultivates both
sides at once. The latter is a better implement to use
while the crops are small. Several attachments are
provided for both types. The hoe blades can be so
set that they will scrape very close to the row, killing
weeds and providing a shallow soil mulch. Another
attachment which comes with the machines is a set
of cultivator teeth, which dig in deeper, for use when
the plants are larger. In the home garden it is prob-
ably not advisable to have a seed drill. This tool,
while indispensable in planting an area of any con-
siderable size to fine seed, is not so well adapted to the
home garden. There is nothing better than the human
hand for distributing the seeds as they should be, as
there is nothing which adapts itself more easily to dif-
ference in thickness of seeding and difference in size
of seeds.

Most serious garden pests. (a) Green cabbage
worm. This worm is the greatest obstacle to cabbage
growing. Control early in the season is insured with
arsenical poisons, which are without danger to human
beings. Some authorities even say that they can be
used after the plants have begun to head. While this
view seems reasonable, it is perhaps best to be on the
safe side and not use poison after the heads begin to
form. Later on pyrethrum and white bellebore may
be used.

(b) Striped cucumber beetle. Control by applying
Bordeaux mixture and arsenate of lead to the young
plants as soon as they appear above ground. The
VEGETABLE GARDENING ‘AT

plants should be kept covered both under and over
with this material until they have begun to run. For
cucumbers or melons the standard Bordeaux mixture

 

9. Starrep CUCUMBER BEETLE

is too strong, and a mixture containing half the usual
amount of copper sulphate should be used. A mixture
of 5 pounds lime, 2 pounds copper sulphate, and 2

 

10. Prant Lick, WINGED TYPE

pounds lead arsenate, in 50 gallons of water will not
injure the plants’and will effectively control the insect.
(ec) Lice. Melon lice often destroy a melon or cu-
48 GARDEN PROJECT

cumber crop in a few days. This insect may be effect-
ively controlled by spraying with a solution of nicotine
sulphate—40% solution. A solution of one part in
one-thousand parts of water will produce the desired
result and will not injure the foliage. The lice live

 

 

11. Prant Licr, WincLESs TYPE

mainly on the under surfaces of the leaves. As they
do not chew but rather get their food by sticking their
beak into the tissue of the plant and drawing out the
sap, it is necessary to cover their bodies with the ma-
terial named in order to kill them. Arsenical poisons
are of no help in controlling this insect.

The method of applying the spray is as important
as the material itself. For the best results use a Ver-
moral nozzle with bent shank, fastened on the end of
a spraying rod. If the nozzle is worked about and
between the foliage thoroughly and a fairly high pres-
sure is maintained, the material will be thrown out in
a fine spray and practically every insect on the plants
will be reached.

(d) Colorado potato beetle. Paris green, or lead
VEGETABLE GARDENING 49

arsenate, mixed with a little slaked lime, are the in-
secticides to use for this pest.

(e) Flea beetles often cause serious damage to to-
‘matoes, eggplants and potatoes. This is a small black
beetle which jumps from plant to.plant when dis-
turbed. They may be effectively controlled by keep-
ing the plants covered with Bordeaux mixture and
arsenate of lead.

(f) Cutworms. These often are of serious damage in
the spring of the year while the ground is still cold;
therefore it is always well to avoid planting vegetables
on sod ground if possible. Sometimes manure which
has laid on a pile during the previous summer provides
an ideal place for the cutworm moths to lay their eggs,
and such manure often adds multitudes of cutworm
eggs to the soil. If the number of plants is not too
great, the cutworms can be best controlled by uncover-
ing the earth about the plants which have been at-
tacked and hunting out the cutworms. Bran mixed
with molasses and a small amount of Paris green
placed in small pits on the higher spots of the land
will often be effective. .

Diseases. The leaf spots and fruit rots so common
to vegetables are caused by fungus and bacterial dis-
eases. Some of these cannot be controlled, but most
of them yield readily to ae applications of
Bordeaux mixture.

* * *

Small fruits should be included in the garden: straw-
berries, blackberries, red and black raspberries, goose-
berries, currants, grapes, etc., but in a course of study
including so many phases of agriculture, these topics
eannot be taken up. ,

Facts for this chapter were given by Professor C. 8. Durst of
University of Illinois.
50 GARDEN PROJECT

Preparing products for market. To sell garden
‘products profitably one must know how to make them
attractive to the purchaser. Products should be clean,
of proper size, shape, and degree of ripeness. Those
that are marketed in bunches, baskets or other con-
tainers should be uniform in these respects.

Usually there are two grades of products: fancy
selected, and number one, besides culls. It should be
borne in mind that number one is the lower grade.
The fancy selected grade will be of proper size, color,
degree of ripeness and free from blemishes. A ‘bunch
or a basket will be uniform in these respects. Size
should be characteristic of the variety. A beet the
size of one’s head would not be graded as fancy se-
lected. Color and shape are other characteristics
which should be considered in connection with the dif-
ferent varieties of products. The degree of ripencss
at which the products are to be packed for market will
depend upon the distance to market. Some products
which are to be shipped some distance will be picked
green. ‘

In grading products it may be well to use a typical
specimen as a sample and compare others with it. The
following deseription* of the grades of tomatoes may
serve to make this point of grading clear. Fancy sc-
lected tomatoes are sound, smooth, regular in shape,
free from cracks, and of such size that twelve speci-
mens will fill one basket of a flat or a four basket crate.
Number one grade is composed of sound specimens,
slightly inferior to the fancy selected grade in size
and smoothness, or with slight cracks about the stem
which may have healed over so that there is no danger

 

*Lloyd—Productive Vegetable Gardening.
12. A VEGETABLE EXHIBIT

 
52 GARDEN PROJECT

of leaking. Culls are badly cracked, rough, over-ripe
or under-sized specimens. Tomatoes which are smaller
than twenty to the basket would be regarded as culls.

Products which are to be bunched may be first
graded and then washed after bunching. This makes
handling easier. All root crops, early in the season,
are bunched. Radishes (except the winter type) are
bunched at all seasons. In this class are green onions,

_asparagus, rhubarb, kohlrabi, parsley, leeks, celery and
sometimes leaf lettuce. String, raffia and tape are used
in tying. Rubber bands are often used for asparagus.

The size of the bunch will depend upon the product.
Bunches of radishes may contain five or six or ten or
twelve depending upon size. As a novelty, white and
scarlet radishes may. be arranged in the same bunch.
Asparagus bunches should be about eight inches in
length and of such circumference that the hand will
go about two-thirds of the way around.

Bunches of onions will appear to better advantage
if the tops are trimmed off. The tops of all small beets
and carrots (in size about forty to the quart) should
be left on. Later in the season larger specimens may
be marketed in bulk with the tops removed.

The importance of uniformity in the appearance of
such products may be demonstrated by comparing two
bunches, one of which contains specimens uniform in
all respects and the other, products of all Sizes, colors,
shapes, and degrees of ripeness.

Preparing and arranging an exhibit. The first im-
pression of an exhibit cannot but have an effect upon
the judge or visitor. There are three factors aside
from the individual excellence of products which de-
termine the quality of an exhibit: cleanliness of prod-
ucts, uniformity, and arrangement. What has been
VEGETABLE GARDENING 53

said in regard to the selection and preparation of
products for market would apply in the case of their
preparation for exhibition.

The exhibits of a garden and canning club might be
placed on two shelves and a vertical surface. The
lower shelf, the larger of the two, placed about the
distance of a table top from the floor, is slightly in-
clined and contains the fresh products. The upper
shelf, placed about two or three feet above the lower
shelf, contains the canned products. On the wall be-
hind this or on the vertical surface of boards which
might be built up if the display is in the center of a
room are placed the record books and decorated club
booklets. Larger vegetables, like cabbages, cauliflower,
melons, cucumbers, squash, ete., are placed at the back
of the first shelf and the steal products in front.
‘Four tomatoes placed on a paper or china plate (or
twelve tomatoes placed in a square basket) may con-
stitute an exhibit. All wilted or torn leaves should
be removed from a cabbage or cauliflower. Beans may
be exhibited in peck measures. The uniformity idea
may be carried out in a canning exhibit by using glass
jars of the same type.

Saving perishable foods. Do you recall the fable of
the Grasshopper and the Ant: how the former played
all summer while the latter toiled to store up food for
the winter? Do you remember what happened when
winter came; how the grasshopper was forced to beg
food of the provident ant? There are grasshoppers
and ants among men as well as animals.

In the tropics, Nature has been kind to man and has
given him an almost perpetual food supply. But in our
latitude ‘‘we never get something for nothing.’’ How
many great men can you name who were born in the
54 GARDEN PROJECT

tropics? Such a climate generally makes men indolent
and lazy.

In the temperate zones, however, the earth produces
food only a portion of the year. During the remainder
of the year, man must live upon food which he has
preserved or stored. One of the great advances in
civilization was made when man domesticated some of
the wild animals and could thus preserve food in the
live state. Animal food may be preserved this way
but other methods are necessary for the preservation
of food plants during the winter months.

Why foods spoil. Why are special measures neces-
sary to. preserve foods? What makes them spoil?
There are three families of plants which grow in living
or dead material, in about the same way that other
plants grow in the soil. These are yeasts, molds and,
bacteria. You are familiar with members of all three
of these families. Yeast is used in making bread. Per-
haps you did not know that it was a plant and that
its growth is what makes bread rise. Mold you will
recognize as the grayish, cob-web material you find on
bread if kept in a warm, moist place. Bacteria makes
you think of diseases. Perhaps some of you have
had the opportunity to look through a microscope at
some wriggling, squirming objects which were called
bacteria.

Bacteria like people. Bacteria are like people; they
may be either good or bad. Were it not for bacteria
the clover plant could not get its nitrogen from the
air. What finer example of neighborliness do we have
than the clover plant and the tiny ‘‘bacteria’’ plants
living together, one helping the other? Perhaps you
did not know that all plants with which we are familiar
are dependent upon bacteria for food. When a farmer
VEGETABLE GARDENING © 55

plows under a crop of corn or a dressing of farm
manure, we know that it decays, that is, breaks up
into simpler compounds, goes into solution in the soil
water and is taken into the plant. All of this is made
possible by bacteria. But let us bring the fact of the
value of bacteria still closer home. When you eat your
dinner, the food is digested in your stomach and intes-
tines; part of this digestion is carried’ on by juices
secreted there, but part of this work is carried on by
bacteria.

Let us remember then that there are good and bad
bacteria. Bacteria that cause disease are bad; bac-
teria which cause decay in the soil are good, as are
those which help digest our food.

These little plants do not ask where they may grow.
If we leave meat, vegetables, milk or other food ex-
posed to the air, they will start operations.

The protection of food. How then may we protect
our food from these plants? Like all other plants,
they must have proper temperature, moisture, oxygen
in some cases, and a suitable place in which to grow.
The methods of food preservation depend upon inter-
fering with one or more of these essential conditions .
to their growth. The following practical suggestions
are given by McConn* for preventing the growth of
molds.

1. Keep all food fairly aes

2. Expose as much as possible to the light.

3. Lower the temperature.

Yeasts grow in food products in which the sugar con-
tent is not too high, if kept in a warm place. The
spoiling of food products due to the action of yeast is

*Yeasts, Molds and Bacteria. ,
56 GARDEN PROJECT

called fermentation. Preserves containing a high per-
centage of sugar do not ferment.

Bacteria a serious menace. Bacteria are more seri-
ous enemies than yeasts or molds. As has been men-
tioned, they are the friend of the farmer as well.as of
the dairyman. To them is due the flavor of butter and
cheese. The housewife, however, must wage a con-
tinuous battle with them in preserving food stuffs.

One of the most wonderful things about bacteria is
their power of reproduction. It is estimated that they
reproduce themselves every half hour. At this rate, a
single bacterium would result in the production of
17,000,000 in twelve hours. Most plants reproduce by
means of seeds but bacteria reproduce by means of.
spores. All bacteria are killed by prolonged heating,
although some species produce spores which are re-
sistant to almost all temperatures.

Bacteria will not grow at freezing temperature or
below nor usually at a boiling temperature though
some species grow at 140° F. Most bacteria grow best
between 70° F. and 90° F. The exact temperature at
which they are killed varies with the species. What
makes the bacteria difficult to kill is the fact that there
are two forms, the spore form and the vegetable form.
The spore form will often resist a temperature as high
as boiling water. Only higher temperatures or pro-...
longed boiling will kill some spores.

Bacteria require darkness, moisture (25-30%) and
heat for best growth. Molds will grow upon acid sub-
stances but bacteria will not. This explains why fruit
preserves are not attacked by bacteria. Like animals,
bacteria require food containing sugars, starches, and
protein.

What are ptomaines? Bacteria not only destroy
VEGETABLE GARDENING 57

food but also form certain products which are poi-
sonous. We call these ptomaines. Contrary to popu-
lar conception, ptomaines do not necessarily come from
tin cans. They are produced by the action of bacteria
on food and are probably the secretions of the bacteria.

All of this information about bacteria has been ac-
quired by man very gradually. He soon learned to dry
foods and by removing the water, to starve the bacteria,
yeasts and molds. The Indians used this method in
preserving buffalo and deer meat. Salting and pickling
are effective methods of food preservation also. The
‘ use of drying has been developed to such an extent
that now milk is evaporated and kept for some time
this way.

Keeping foods cool. The spring house, cool cellar
or family ice box is a short time cold storage plant
where preservation is a matter of days. In the city
cold storage warehouse food products can be kept for
months.

The following rules should be observed in the house-
hold in preserving foods by this method:

1. Cool the food as ‘quickly as possible. This should
be done before covering and setting aside for keeping.

2. Use every possible device for avoiding moisture,

8. Use food quickly after taking it from its place of
storing, for such food. when warmed decays rapidly.

Canning a safe method. Preservatives are often
used by commercial firms and even in households to
preserve food. : The use of such chemicals is dangerous
and unnecessary. Food products may be canned and
kept in perfect condition without their use.

Canning is comparatively a new method of food
preservation. During the Napoleonic Wars, the' great
Napoleon, originator of that famous expression “An
58 GARDEN PROJECT

army travels on its stomach,’’ offered a prize for a
method of preserving fruit and vegetables. Thereupon
a Frenchman discovered ‘‘canning.”’

From a modest beginning canning has grown until
now there are five methods known and in use, namely:

1. The open kettle or hot pack method.

2. The intermittent, or fractional sterilization

method.

The cold water method.
The vacuum seal method.
The cold pack, single period method.

The open kettle process. In the open kettle process,
the product is cooked in an open kettle, then poured
into a sterilized container and sealed up. Fruits may
be canned by this process but products readily at-
tacked by bacteria cannot be preserved in this way.
This is due to the fact that some air containing spores
is carried in as the product is poured into the jar;
another objection to this method is the overcooking of
products and the resulting loss of flavor.

The intermittent method. To overcome these ob-
jections the fractional or intermittent sterilization
method was devised. In this method the products
were cooked in the jars or cans. It was thought neces-
sary to repeat this operation on three successive days,
scaling the jars up after each boiling; hence the name
intermittent. By this method all of the spores which
escaped the first boilings were eventually killed. The
objections to this method were its expenditure of fuel,
time and labor.

Cold water method. The cold water method suc-
ceeds quite well with such products as rhubarb and
gooscberries. The jars are filled with the products
and cold water and then sealed under water to pre-

oR oo
VEGETABLE GARDENING 59

vent the entrance of air. Products canned in this
way require subsequent cooking and are apt to be
“‘water-logged.’’ The vacuum seal is a ‘‘short cut’’
cold pack method and requires special equipment. By
exhausting the air in a jar by a special pump, the time
required to sterilize its contents is decreased.

The cold pack method. The cold pack method used
in canning factories is a marked improvement over the

 

13. A CANNING CLUB

first three methods. All products, except soft fruits,
are subjected to a preliminary blanch or scald in boil-
ing water or live steam and then a dip in cold water.
This so-called ‘‘hot and cold dip’’ loosens skin, brings
out color, firms the texture, removes objectionable
acids and probably helps to make unnecessary the three
60 GARDEN PROJECT

sterilizations of the intermittent or ‘‘three day’’

method. In the case of greens or ‘‘pot-herbs’’ it
shrinks them and makes packing easier. The duration
of the hot dip varies with different products. After
this treatment, the products are packed in glass jars
or tin cans and boiling syrup or water is added, de-
pending upon whether fruit or vegetables are being
canned. Rubbers and tops are put on glass jars and
the latter screwed down, but not tight. Tin cans are
sealed completely. The jars or cans are then immersed
in boiling water or placed in an atmosphere of steam:
at a definite pressure. The time they are left in de-
pends upon the product and the temperature. It takes
less time to sterilize food products under five pounds
of steam pressure than in boiling water and still less
time under twenty pounds of steam pressure.

Canning outfits may be purchased, but it is possible
to make a simple one which will do just as good work.
A wash boiler, fifty pound lard tin, water bucket, in
fact anything in which water can be boiled and to
which a cover may be fitted, will do. A false bottom
of wood or metal which will lift the jars from the bot-
tom and permit the water to circulate under, around,
and among the jars completes the outfit. If it be pro-
vided with handles and a guard rail, jars may be lifted
in and out more easily.

Full directions for canning different products, mak-
ing syrup, etc., as well as descriptions of different types
of canning outfits may be obtained by requesting from
the state club leader or the U. S. Department of Agri-
culture, Washington, D. C., the NR series of canning
bulletins,
APPENDIX

A MODEL CONSTITUTION AND BY-LAWS"

CONSTITUTION

(School, township, county, etc.)
Article II. The object of this club is to increase the agricultural,

educational, and social advantages of...............2.005-

(Name of geographical unit)
through mais projects, entertainments, lectures, fairs, ex-

hibits, ete.
Article III. All boys and girls living in..................-+---

(Geographical unit)
between the ages of 10 and 18 years shall be ene for

membership.

Article IV. Sec. 1. The officers of this club shall consist of «
president, a vice-president, a secretary, and a treasurer.

See. 2. A majority vote shall constitute an election. ~

Article V. Roberts’ Rules of Order shall govern the meetings of
the club.

Article VI. The order of business for all regular meetings shall ~
‘be as follows:

Call to order.

Roll call.

Reading of minutes of last meeting.

Addition or corrections to the minutes.

Reports of committees.

Old business. .

New business.

Considering new names for membership.

Literary program.

Recreation or refreshments.

Adjournment.

pe
MoS SSS Pe he

1Credit is due Mr. E. C. Lindemann, State Club Leader of
Michigan, for this material.
61
62 GARDEN PROJECT

Article VII. Committees for special purposes may be appointed
by the president at any time.

BY-LAWS

Article I, The club motto shall be “To make the BEST, BET-
TER,” and the club emblem shall be a four-leaf clover bear-
ing an H on each leaf.

Article II. The officers shall be elected by ballot at the annual

ClechiOn: IMs 6 'ceceues fe peensces a manson ey yes of each year.
(Month)
Article III. The regular meeting of the club shall take place
BA Use ere Satcras dhe eased}, 0: ca ane ve a Sane Ox OM, THE: 5 csscs. é,coscecaeads oe Oa BS 2
Name of building) (Day of the month)

Avtiale IV. See. 1. A quorum shall consist of............-.+6

(Usually two-thirds)
of the membership of the club.

Sec. 2. This constitution may be amended by a vote of
SH Ridpare. Buk Wein Satca Ais of the members present at any regular meeting.
(Usually two-thirds)

PARLIAMENTARY PRACTICE: HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS.

a, Always address the president as Mr. or Miss President.

b. All remarks should be addressed to the president.

ce. There should be no talking between members.

d. The president should recognize the person who seeks the
floor by saying: “Mr. or Miss. ......... 0. cscs eee eee eee eee “a

(Person’s name)
e. This indicates that the person thus recognized has the

privilege of speaking (of the floor) and must not be interrupted.

f. The only interruptions allowable are (1) a call for a ‘point
of order, or (2) a question.

g. A point of order applies to a member who has made a
motion which is out of order because of another motion before
the meeting, or to a member whose remarks are not on the sub-
ject under consideration, or to a person who is exceeding the time
limit for discttssion, etc. A point of order is executed as follows:

Member rising while another is speaking: “Mr. President, I
rise to a point of order.”

The president will then recognize the speaker as follows: “Mr.
ipvidiaresyies eset tins aes ca , please state your point of order.”

Member who has interrupted speaker: ‘Mr. President, the
speakers Missin cnees-ot aesca 6 sees ies is out of order because his

(Interrupted member’s name) s .
remarks are not on the subject under consideration (or is out of

order because there is another motion before the meeting) .”
APPENDIX 63

President: “The chair decides that the point is (or is not)
well taken.”

Whereupon the interrupted speaker takes his seat, or makes an
appeal from the decision of.the chair as follows:

Interrupted speaker: “Mr. President, I appeal from the deci-
sion of the chair.”

Presidents: “Mitcnucsssusees wen nen appeals from the decision
of the chair. As many as are in favor of sustaining the deci-
sion of the chair will make manifest by saying ‘Aye;’ contrary-
minded, ‘No.’ ”

The motion is (or is not) carried.

If the motion is carried, and the decision of the chair is thus
sustained, the interrupted speaker has no further recourse and
must take his seat. If, however, the motion is lost and the deci-
sion of the chair is not sustained, the speaker may continue to
speak.

Question. The speaker may be interrupted by any member for
the purpose of asking a question. This question may be one of
personal privilege or may be for the purpose of gaining informa-
tion about.the subject under discussion. The execution of this
motion may proceed as follows:

Member taking floor while another member is speaking: “Mr.
President, I rise to a question of information.”

Presiding officer: “State your question.”

Member: “Do I understand the speaker to mean that........

The speaker then proceeds to give the information desired, and
the meeting then proceeds.

In case of a question of personal privilege the process is as
follows:

Member, rising and interrupting mae “Mr. President, I
rise to a question of personal privilege.” ,

Presiding officer: “State your question.”

Member: “Mr. President, this room is too warm for comfort,
and I therefore ask to have the windows opened.”

In either case the presiding officer may rule for or against the
person asking the question.
64 GARDEN PROJECT

GARDEN RULES

DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
Bureau or EpucatTion
WaAsHINGTON, D. C.

1. Location. The vegetable garden should be located where
the plants will receive sufficient sunlight and air.

2. Soil. The soil should be deep, rich, mellow, and well
drained.

3. Seeds. Only the best vegetable seeds, purchased from reli-
able seedsmen, should be planted. ;

4. Plants. All vegetable plants, such as cabbage, lettuce, to-
matoes, pepper, and eggplant, ete., should be grown, not purchased.

5. Fertilizer. Make three applications of commercial ferti-
lizer at intervals during the growing season, rather than one
application of the entire amount. F

6. Cultivation.. The soil between the rows should be kept
well hoed. The garden should be free of weeds.

7. Intensive gardening. Use every square foot of garden
space. Plant companion crops whenever possible. As soon as
one crop is harvested, plant another. Eliminate all paths and
weeds.

8. Harvesting. Allow no vegetable to go to waste. Can or
sell what cannot be used fresh by the family.

9. Seasons. Practice all-year-round gardening.

10. Records. Accurate records of expenditures and receipts
should be kept, as well as the dates of planting and of harvesting
each crop.

RECOMMENDATIONS CONCERNING COMPANION
AND SUCCESSION CROPS FOR THE
HOME GARDEN

DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
BuREAU OF EDUCATION
WASHINGTON, D. C.

I. Never choose vegetables belonging to the same plant family
for either a companion or a succession crop.
APPENDIX 65

The mustard family includes cabbage, cauliflower, collard,
Brussels sprouts, kale, radish, turnip, and kohlrabi.

The goose foot family includes beet, Swiss chard, and
spinach.

The parsley family includes carrot, celery, parsley, and
parsnip.

The nightshade family includes Irish potato, tomato,
eggplant, and pepper.

The gourd family includes squash, pumpkin, melon, cu-
cumber, and watermelon.

2. Follow the quickly maturing crops of the earliest planting,
such as garden peas, spinach, lettuce, and mustard, with the
main crops of the second planting season, such as tomato, okra,
pepper, and cucumber.

3. Follow the slowly maturing crops of the earliest planting,
such as Irish potato and cabbage, with the midsummer planting
of late corn, late tomato, late Irish potato, cowpeas, carrots, and
beans.

4. Follow the crops of the second planting season, for ex-
ample, early tomato, with the earliest fall planting season of
endive, lettuce, and beets.

5. Between the rows of tall growing vegetable plants, for
example, corn, plant a companion crop of any df the gourd
family or any low-growing plant, the leaves of which are used
for food.

6. Plant slowly maturing tall-growing vegetables between
rows of quickly maturing, low-growing vegetables, for example,
tomatoes between rows of carrots.

7. Choose a succession crop that will require the same amount
of space as the crop just harvested, or plan the garden so that
one row of Irish potatoes, for example, may follow two rows of
lettuce. ; ;

8. The entire vegetable garden should be deeply spaded and
well fertilized before the plawting of the earliest crops in the

spring.
LIST OF HOME GARDENING PUBLICATIONS

The following publications have been prepared to assist teachers
who are conducting school-home gardening. They may be obtained
by applying to the United States Bureau of Education.

Circulars
1. Instruction for school supervised home gardens.
2. A course in vegetable gardening for teachers.
>
an

ee

15.
16.

st oF 1 oe Oe

GARDEN PROJECT

The winter vegetable garden.

Organic matter for the home garden.

Hot-beds and cold frames for home gardens.

Raising vegetable plants from sced.

How to make the garden soil more productive.

Planting the garden.

Part played by the leaf in the production of a crop.

A suggestive schedule for home garden work in the South,

List of publications for the use of school-home garden
teachers.

School-home garden results of 1916.

Garden projects in seed planting.

Flower growing for school children in the elementary
grades.

Part played by the roots in the production of a crop.

Home gardening for town children.

Chapter 15. Commissioner of Education. Report for 1916.

(Reprinted.)

Daily Record Books of boys’ and girls’ home gardens.
Letters

1.

The home garden; its economic value and its relation to
the school in towns and cities.

2. Summary of recommendations of the United States Bureau
of Education concerning school and home gardening.
3. Outline for studying vegetables.
4. List of home gardening circulars and letters.
5. Outline for home work in school-directed home gardens in
the South.
Bulletin

1916. No. 40. Gardening in elementary city schools.

SOME GARDEN BOOKS

Productive Vegetable Gardening—Lloyd.
Market Gardening—Yeaw.

Manual of Gardening—Bailey.

School Gardens—Hood.
The Project Notebook

VEGETABLE GARDENING AND CANNING

Ce er as

The student is urged to answer all questions, describe
all operations called for in the monthly calendar, and
make all records in the proper place in this notebook.
68 Tur PLAN OF THE GARDEN

Make the plan of your garden drawn to scale on this page.
Draw first with pencil, and at the end of the season retrace the
lines with ink.
EXPENSES 69
RECORD OF WORK

 

Keep a record of all time spent at work in the garden. Begin
this record with preparation of seed bed and include time spent
in gathering products.

If only a few minutes are spent in the garden at a time, make
record in fracticn of hour.

 

Value of Time

Kind of Work
per Total
Hour

‘otal carried forward

 
70

EXPENSES

RECORD OF WORK

 

 

Date

Kind of Work

Value of Time

 

Hours

Value
per
Hour

Total

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
EXPENSES 71
RECORD OF WORK

 

Value of Time
Kind of Work

per Total
Hour

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

72 EXPENSES
RECORD OF WORK
Value of Time
Date Kind of Work Hours} Value :
per Total
' Hour ‘

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
SUPPLIES 73

Record should be made here of all seeds and plants purchased
for the garden—-also tools, stakes, spraying mixtures, fertilizers,
ete.

Charge 2 of the cost of all permanent equipment.

Rent of garden plat shall be estimated at 5% on a fair selling
valuation per acre. This item shall be counted in with expense
even if no direct rent is paid.

 

 

Date Article Cost

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Size of my garden............ eee e eee eee sq. ft. or rods
Estimated rent for 1 acre $...............
Estimated rent for my garden §...............
74

RECEIPTS
FRESH VEGETABLES USED AT HOME

Record shall be made here of all fresh vegetables from garden

used at home and also vegetables given away.

The local club leader will determine method of weight or meas-
ure and also price of vegetables.
Where there is no club leader, cost of products will be deter-
mined by that in local markets.

 

Date

Kind of Vegetable

Quantity

Value

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

REcEIPTS 75
FRESH VEGETABLES USED AT HOME
Date Kind of Vegetable Quantity; Value

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

76 REcEIPtTs
FRESH VEGETABLES USED AT HOME
Date Quantity; Value

Kind of Vegetable

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

REcEIPTS 17
FRESH VEGETABLES USED AT HOME
Date Kind of Vegetable Quantity] Value

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
78 FRESH VEGETABLES SOLD

 

When vegetables are sold outside the home, careful measure

should be made and record kept of quantity sold and money
received.

 

Date Kind of Vegetable Quantity; Value

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
FRESH VEGETABLES SOLD 79

 

 

Kind of Vegetable

 

 

 

 
80

FRESH VEGETABLES SOLD

 

 

Date

Kind of Vegetable

Quantity

Value

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
FRESH VEGETABLES SOLD

81

 

 

Date

Kind of Vegetable

Quantity

Value

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
82

FRESH VEGETABLES SOLD

 

 

Date

Kind of Vegetable

Quantity

Value

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
FRESH VEGETABLES SOLD

83

 

 

Date

Kind of Vegetable

Quantity

Value

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
84 VEGETABLES CANNED FOR HOME USE

With the exception of such vegetables as radishes and lettuce,
all others not used as fresh vegetables should be canned. Value
of vegetables for home use shall be determined by market value

of such product.

 

Date Kind of Vegetable Quarts | Value

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
VEGETABLES CANNED FOR HOME USE

85

 

 

Date

Kind of Vegetable

Quarts

Value

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
86

VEGETABLES CANNED FOR MARKET

 

Vegetables may be canned for market in either glass jars or tin

cans.

products according to government instructions.

Keep record of canned vegetables sold here.

4-H brand labels may be purchased by members who can

 

 

Date

Kind of Vegetable

Quarts

Value

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Date

VEGETABLES CANNED FOR MARKET

Kind of Vegetable

Quarts

87

Value

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
88 SUMMARY

EXPENSES
Hired Labor @ 17c per hour........ Be cps sects waa ahalacacarenaneee
Horse Labor @ 10c per hour........ Seance xs vee ose gous eset
Supplies’ c.jccna spsceeseeeans see wie Dhupia ae saree eae?
Rent osnsie5 steeeae andcsy semeswdine $: rannrarda Momenes ou en
Total Expenses ....... Di nema ed ieee wens es Rae

RECEIPTS
Vegetables Sold .........02eeeeeee Dein yp eaeuae eg see Gees
Vegetabes Used at ‘Teme nets asl aonb nese Dasa eMeed oe Wade ees

Vegetables Canned for Home and

Market: scsais cae gia aaa ee hea AD sssees aia aes Siw pease Save erin foe

Equipment on Hand............... Be aia y Gelwiees dinvitig eeenw geeiel

Total Receipts ........ Paros ersaaeaend dias amtcittonpeunanens

(Subtract) Expense $........... 0.0.0 cece eeceeeees

Labor: Income: sx. does s eb Ma ie ae DME Ore we ED

(Subtract) Labor at 10c per hour..................

PROG OF L088 Bice cans seice s saslayeadisis daeeeasekome pega Gene tenes

Profit per 100 sq. ft...... 0.000 ccc cence cence ence ees “3
or Profit, per 1. sq. rds. nese cnaeae cud cue evesanssveusae

If your state has a different form for recording the Garden
and Canning Project, to be sent to the state leader, it may be
made out from the records and data here kept by the pupil. The
Bureau of Education, Washington, D. C., has issued a very excel-
lent Daily Record Book for Boys’ and Girls’ Home Gardens.
MIscELLANEOUS NoTES AND RECORDS

89
90 MiscELLANEOUS Notes AND RECORDS
MisceLLANEous Notes AND REcorpDS

91
92 My Experience In GARDENING
My EXPERIENCE IN GARDENING

93
94 My ExprrigNce IN GARDENING
GARDEN VISITORS 95

 

The club leader shall sign here each time a visit is made to your
garden.

Other friends who visit the garden may also sign their names
here.

 

 

Date Name Remarks

 

 
96 GaRDEN VISITORS

 

 

Date Name Remarks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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