DN (i feelin] Rew Dork Htate College of Agriculture At Cornell Gnibversity Dthaca, M2. DB. Library sity Li i ‘ary it instructor . wii 8 233 mm PREFACE. One object we have in offering this little work to the Public is tu simplify the growing of small fruits, and to tell what we have learned from twenty years’ practice and observations. We desire to explain the practical part in as few plain English words as possible, and leave to others to write books made up of Latin and Greek and theoretical statements. Our purpose is to show the reader how and what to do to obtain fruit in the simplest way, and leave to others the dry talk about botanical terms—the formation of wood, leaves, &c, &c., and, too, we shall take up the space with the living subject, instead of going back to Pliny’s time to find out why this kind or that is called by this name or that. Our observations have shown us that the American people want plain, practical statements and experience, that will show them how a thing is to be done, in the fewest words, and this we shall endeavor to do It will be remembered that we have agreed to furnish a new and enlarged edition, as soon as possible, of some such work as we had in press at the time of the great fire in Rochester, in which that matter was destroyed We had intended, after deciding on publishing the Frurr Recorpsr, a monthly paper that we are now editing, at one dollar per year, to give up publishing a new edition of our SMALL Frurr Insrrucror, but the demand has been so great for such a work from us, and the inquiries coming in thicker and faster regarding it, that we have concluded to issue this work at the present time—to satisfy this demand—hoping at some future day. if our life be spared, to publsh a more complete and finished work. The reader will please remember that this has. been hastily gotten up, and is not intended for the critic’s eye. With many thanks to the kind friends who’ have complimented our former edition so highly, and hoping that this will be received with equal favor, and that it will be the means of inducing thousands to plant fruit who have not hereto- fore enjoyed the luxuries, and many homes made to rejoice with plenty where barrenness now prevails, and that we may all remember the Great Giver, who has so bountifully blessed us, is the earnest wish and ardent desire of the WhritEr, NOTICE. $$ All persons will notice that this work and” its title is copyrighted. This is done to ‘prevent parties who have been in the habit of getting up Catalogues, &c., copying cur : directions and instructions almost word for word, without giving the proper credit. ~ ‘We have no objections to Editors copying from it, providing the proper credit is ‘given. i / Those who have sent us 10 cents, from secing the advertisement of our old work, (the copies of which are all gone), will please notice that the price of this is 25 cents, and will oblige us by forwarding 15 cents additional. ae We know there is more or less repetition in this work, on account of copying from the old Insrrvoror, but on‘account of the short time we have had to prepare it in, ‘Sickness in our family, and other urgent duties to attend to, with the publication of Tue RecorDEr on our hands, we could not revise it. The critic will please overloox such and all other mistakes. ‘ SSS SSS SS SS SS SMALL FRUITS FOR THE FAMILY. (For Punpy’S Smatu Fruit Instrucror.] Every family should have an abundant supply of strawberries, currants, raspberries, and blackberries. These four kinds will give loaded dishes on the table daily through- gut the summer months. They will contribute to health, comfort and economy—save chore and grocers’ bills, and make home pleasant. One-fourth of an acre, as wel. ° “@ultivated as a good field of corn and potatoes, will furnish all these luxuries. The same amount of substantial benefit cannot be had so cheaply in any other way. Every one likes good fruit. It has been eaten by old and young for six thousand years, and there is no reason why it may not for six thousand more, if the world con- tinues. The appetite for it is natural, healthful, and universal. Boys will often steal hard green apples rather than be deprived of fruit; and girls will make long walks through bushes and briars to get a few small, imperfect berries in their baskets, when y might bé had incomparably better, and far more abundantly in the well cultivated Warden row at home. ‘The great difficulty is, the owners of gardens will not take the pains to procure the plants; or, after they have procured them, they are badly neg- lected, The farmer, too, often leaves the care of his garden the last thing. He should always take it in hand first of all, and then cultivate and hoe his corn and potatoes afterwards. The garden, for the amount of labor, pays much the best, and is soon through with. Always put it first on the list, and the farm crops afterwards. Strawberries are as cheaply raised as potatoes. after the plantation is made, if done wight. Badly cultivated, they are costly. It is very common to get from a clean bed of the Wilson, cultivated on the hill system, at the rate of two hundred bushels per VIO VV P98 aysef acre, How much shall we need for the family? We want an average of two quarts on every breakfast and tea table, which would be nearly or about one busbel a wech By planting three or four sorts, we may have them for a month. We must, therefore, provide for four or five bushels. At one-half the amount per acre just indicated, «ne twentieth of an acre would do, or eight square rods. Prepare the ground at once, sel out the plants, keep the rows clean and free from runners, and you cannot fail to. be highly gratified with the result. Remember the condition—xezp the rows clean —toy if you allow them to become weedy, they will bear but little, and will soon run out; and you will probably come to the conclusion that strawberries ‘‘ won’t pay,” and are “a humbug.” You would have the same opinion of raising corn if you planted it without plowing the ground, or allowed the weeds and grass to overtop the corn, , Strawberries are as easy to hoe as corn. Currants follow strawberries. They come at_a time when evezy farmer has plenty of cream to add to them. The Red Dutch, the White Dutch, the Cherry or Versailles, and the White Grape, furnish an excellent supply. Take the two last named, mixed together, the one cream white, and the other deep crimson, and both nearly as large as medium grapes, and they present a rich and attractive appearance, fit for the table of a sovereign—as every American voter is. Currants scarcely ever fail—but'to be really fine they must be properly pruned, and kept well cultivated. Neglect them, allow them to become stunted and full of brush, and the finest will be small and sour; but thin out judiciously the old wood and needless shoots, and by good cultivation put ... - life and vigor into the bushes, and they wil! bear trusses of large berries worth seeing, As a general rule, neglected bushes growing in grass, bear currants about one-fifth the size of those properly cared for. It is not uncommon to find Cherry and Versailies currants five-eighths of an inch in diameter, and White Grape currants half an inch, when well cultivated. Raspberries ripen about midsummer in the north. It is wholly needless to say a word in faver of their excellence ; the only point is to induce landowners to plant and take care of them—the latter the most difficult of all. Not that there is any particular difficulty in their management, but they are too often entirely neglected. They are as easy to hoe as cabbages, and not harder to prune than to whittle. A little practical attention will teach any one how to do it. Any one who has seen such a fruit as the Mammoth Cluster, yielding berries under good culture three-fourths of an inch average diameter, and at the rate of one hundred good bushels to the acre, ought to be easily ersuaded to set out two or three dozen bushes, and to give them some attention. Mixed in a dish with the Golden Thornless, which are about the same size, they form a fine ornament to the table. : . Last of all, during the latter part of summer, come the Blackberries. Within afew years, greatly improved varieties have come into cultivation. The Kittatinny is be. coming a general favorite at the east and west, its extreme hardiness giving it an im- portant advantage over most other and tenderer varieties. The most common mistake in the management of blackberry bushes, is, in not pruning them right—or, rather, they are not pruned at all. The shoots grow six or eight feet in one season, bend partly over, obstruct the passage half a rod wide, and catch with their numerous spines every person that comes near them. Allowed to run in this way, they do not bear | - well. The right way is to pinch them in while growing so as to prevent their becom- ing more than three or four feet high. When they attain this height, nip off with the fingers the green tips of each stem; and after they throw outside shoots a foot or so, pinch them off too. Keep pinching as often as necessary, so as to keep them within bounds. Thus treated, they will not require staking, they will be hardier, will bear more abundantly, and will not spread themselves beyond discreet bounds,—four im- portant advantages. i _Now, who will hesitate to devote a, fourth or an eighth of an acre to small fruits for his family? The labor and attention to keep them all in good order, will be small, if begun early. If left till the weeds have full possession, the work will be increased at least twenty fold, and the plants will be nearly ruined besides. Do the work well and early, and it will require but little labor and expense. ene eens STANDS FOR GATHERING FRUIT. These will need no description how to make, as the cut (Fig. 7) shows for itself, Stands for quarts are made to hold six baskets, and for pints eight baskets. We usually have a large supply of these ready, so that we are not obliged to empty them as fast as brought in, which, if done, many times keep the pickers waiting, especially if a number come~ in at one time. We have generally kept a tally book, but hereafter shall have small tickets, on which will be printed, ‘Pay the bearer for picking six quarts.” At night these will be handed back to us and we then pay the cash, or give another ticket or due . Jl, as follows, ‘‘ Pay: for picking. —quarts at———cents per quart.” The first blank being filled up with names of pickers, the second with number of quarts ticked, and third what price per quart. By this system or one similar to it, pickers can keep their own tally. PROTECTION FROM WINDS. This is of great importance to secure a good and sure crop of fruit—especially straw- berries. Any person may see by passing a field that is protected on the West by tim- ber, that the snow will lay like a sheet all over such fields. It needs no argument to show that this blanket spread over the surface of the ground protects the plants and roots, and adds richness and vitality to the soil. It is a common saying that ‘snow is the poor man’s manure.” We believe this is so, by its shading the surface, and shade, to a proper extent, enriches the soil. We believe it gathers in its descent from the atmosphere, and carries to the soil, certain properties that add greatly to its rich- ness. These things are not easily explained, and may be ridiculed by some; but practical illustrations abound on every side to prove the truth of our statement, and we believe that the more our people strip the country of its timber, the less and more uncertain will be the crops. Wecan prove that in localities that have a fair propor- tion of timber, the crops, and especially winter wheat, are more certain than in those sections barren of timber. We know of a farm where but one row of maple trees were set through the center of the farm, running north and south. These trees are now twenty to thirty feet high, and about twenty feet apart. They commenced branching out low, and have grown so that the limbs meet. On the east of this row of trees snow lays as it falls for twenty or thirty rods, and the crops of winter wheat are excellent, while on the west side the snow is generally swept off, and the crops oor, notwithstanding the soil is the same. This row of trees scatters and breaks the orce of the wind so that the snow that falls on the east side is not swept off thereby. We would therefore advise all parties who are intending to go into Small Fruits, to choose a locality that is protected on the west. If this cannot be had or found, then set a row of trees, or double row, on the west. ; The best tree we know of for this purpose, on account of its quick, rapid growth, dense foliage, and cheapness, is the Scotch Pine. We should set these ten to twelve _feet,apart, with some rapid growing forest trees half way between. i6 RAISING NEW SORTS. ‘ : We are aware there are those ‘voting-for-Jackson” men that believe we have brought Small Fruits to perfection, and that there is no necessity for further effort in this line. It will be time to settle down in this belief when we succeed in raising a strawberry equal to the Wilson's Albany in firmness and productivencss on all soils ;- to the Hooker and Burr’s New Pine in deliciousness, and to the Jucunda in size and color; and wé will further add, that we will give one thousand dollars for the stock of any new sort (if not under 100 plants) that combines the above qualities. We believe the time is coming that such a berry will be produced. We want a- raspberry, too, equal to the Mammoth Cluster in productiveness, firmness, and hardi- ness; to the Brinckle’s Orange in flavor; and to the Fastolff in size and color; and also other Small Fruits—blackberries, currants, gooseberrics, &c., with like desirable qualities and characteristics. : It is but little trouble to those who have the time and taste for such things, to grow new seedlings ; besides, there is a great amount of interest and pleasure attached to it that makes it a very pleasant occupation. The first important point’ is to save the seed’ at the proper time—that is when the sced is fully ripe. Allow the berries to get dry, and then rub them out of the flesh. Sow them in pots of light, rich mould, or ina bed of light earth, in rows three or four inches apart, in July or August. Press them into the soil with the back of the hoe, and keep the ground regularly watered, In two to four weeks they will make their appearance. Cover through the winter witk some coarse evergreen boughs or brush of trees. In the sprig transplant the proper distance. The second season they will produce fruit. MANURES. Space will not allow us to give any extended remarks on this heading. Rich prairie soils we do not consider so strictly necessary to manure, as those of a lighter and poorer nature. Of course, the poorer the soil the more manure. required, and the more thoroughly it should be incorporated into the ground. We would advise deep plowing,—using a subsoil plow, if' possible, in all soils where it can be worked. We have reference to those subsoil plows that follow the ordinary plow, merely loosening the underground, and noé throwing it up to the surface. In most cases wehere it has never been used, it will be found as beneficial as a good coating of manure; hence’ our urging it under this heading. ; The best way of using manure on rich prairie soils, is to scatter it over the surface after the ground has been plowed, and working it in with the cultivator and hoe.' By: so doing, it prevents the surface from ‘‘ baking,” and. keeps it in a loose, light condi- tion, hence it does not suffer from the drouth so badly. : We consider thoroughiy decomposed barn-yard manure unexcelled. If not to be had in sufficient quantities, mix with it, in alternate layers, muck, leaf mould, sods from the roadside, corners of fences, leached ashes, lime, salt, &c. Have the whole pile thrown over once or twice, and well mixed together. The value of such a com- post can be easily seen by scattering a very little among the strawberry plants, or zround other Small Fruits. Those parties who wish to go into the Small Fruit busi- ness, but are deterred by the poor character of their soil, and a supposed lack uf ma- uure, should read ‘‘ Ten Acres Enough,” and learn what can be done by any energetic nan. Coarse manures should not be used—especially on light, sandy soils. If manures are not on hand, or ready for immediate use—that is, for Spring planting—the plants can be set, and the manure scattered among them in July or August, with very satis- factory results. ‘ Land that has been badly ‘‘run,” can be put in splendid condition for fruits in one season by sowing peas or corn broadcast early in the Spring, and when it gets two feet high, plow under and immediately sow another crop, and plow this under at the proper time. By this method a foul picce of land can be subdued and brought into fine plight for planting. All successful market gardeners and Small Fruit growers agree that it is hopeless to ' grow good crops, without a yearly application of manure in large quantities. Hen-: derson’s Gardening says: ‘Tt is a grave blunder to attempt to grow vegetable crops without the use of ma- nures of the various kinds. Inever yet saw soils of any kind that had borne a crop of vegetables that would produce as good a crop the next season without the use of ” 1” manure, no matter now rich the soil may be thought to be. An illustration of this came under my observation last season. One of my neighbors, a market gardener of twenty years’ experience, and whose grounds have always been a perfect model of , productiveness, had it in prospect of running a sixty foot street through his grounds; thinking his land sufficiently rich to carry through a crop of cabbages Without manure, he thought it useless to waste money by using guano on that portion on which the street was to be, but on each side sowed guano at the rate of twelve hundred pounds per acre, and planted the whole with early cabbages. The effect was the most marked Lever saw; that portion on which the guano had been used sold off readily at twelve dollars per hundred, or about one thousand four hundred dollars per acre, both price and crop being more than an average; but the portion from which the guano had been - withheld hardly averaged three dollars per hundred. The. street occupied fully an acre of ground, so that my friend actually lost over $1,000 in crop, by withholding: $60 for manure. Another neighbor with a lease only one year to run, also unwisely concluded that it would be foolish to waste manure on his last crop, and so planted and sowed all without ; the result was, as his experience should have taught him, a crop of inferior quality in every article grown, and loss on his eight acres of probably $2,000 for that season.” LIQUID MANURES, Are very valuable and so easily obtained in those sections, where manure is high, with but a trifling cost, that we wonder that more do not see its value and take advantage of it—especially those who have their small truck and fruit gardens near the large cities. Onc very good plan to obtain such is to arrange under the caves of the bafn or out-houses, a three cornered trough, say two feet deep and two fect across the top, one end raised a little higher than the other, and at the lower end sink a hogshead. Fill this trough up with street scrapings, shoe and harness makers’ scraps, bones pounded up, ashes, cleanings from privy vaults, offal from tanneries, &c. Mix these all together in the ee and over all scatter a quantity of sand. Then, as it rains, the water running off from the eaves of the building, will fall into the troughs and soaking through to the bottom, will pass off into the hogshead at the lower end, thus making the choicest of liquid manures. There are other methods for making such, but the above must prove the sanplest of all, and requires no carrying water. For more extended instructions about manure, read Taz FRUIT RECORDER— a monthly, noticed in another part of this work. STRAWBERRIES. There is no fruit that is grown so successfully over 80 large an extent of country— no fruit that adapts itself to so many different soils and climates, and so universally relished, as the delicious strawberry. It does seem very strange to us that so many families unnecessarily deprive themselves of this healthy luxury—especially those who have plenty of land to plant them on. Many are deterred from planting out a bed, with the false idea that it is too much trouble and work. Now, we claim that we can grow a bed on the same piece of ground for years, with no more trouble or work each year than 90 much ground planted to potatoes. There are sorts, like the Jenny Lind and Downer, that will stand neglect, and yield good crops year after year, on the same ground; but we da not wish tc con- vey the idea that we recommend such culture, but wish to impress it on the minds of all, that the better the culture, the better the crop. Remember the old adage, ‘‘ A stitch in time saves nine,” and that there is no branch of business this applies to more than in the cultivation of this fruit. It is easier to cultivate and hoe a plantation four times over, when there are no weeds, than once if weedy; therefore hoe soon after setting the plants, and as often as possible afterwards. There are sorts that are better adapted to extreme temperature and localities than others. We shall endeavor to show the success of each prominent sort in different - localities, and where each originated. 20 There are many modes of cultivation, each of which have their strong advocates. We have heretofore strongly advocated the matted row system, but after careful and practical comparisons, we are satisfied that the ‘‘hill,” or ‘‘ bill and row method is the best, one year after another, in most localities, although we have received many. letters from extreme cold sections, claiming that they stand the winter better when grown in matted rows. The fruit average double the size, the crop double, and on most soils with dess labor. In hills, they form such strong, bushy tops, that the fruit and blossoms are protected from severe late Spring frosts thereby. Some Springs we have had late frosts in May, that nearly ruined our plantations that grew in matted rows, while those grown in hills were but slightly damaged, and yielded a very heavy crop. Another reason is, that the heavy tops mat down around the crown in the Winter, and protect it from the action of the frost, while those grown in the matted row form but small tops, and are not thus protected. It is well, however, to scatter around the hills plenty of mulching before winter sets in. Again, if the ground should be weedy, they are attended to With much less work and care than if allowed to throw out runners. The work can nearly all be done with the hoe and cultivator, while if in matted rows it has to be done with the fingers, which is very laborious indeed. | There are sorts that must be grown in hills to produce well, (those having no * prefixed are of this sort,) and none but what do better grown thus. HAVE STRAWBERRIES CEASED TO BE PROFITA. BLE? We have read many articles, and had the question. often asked us, ‘‘ Have straw- berries ceased to be profitable? ‘Will they pay at eight cents per quart? To the first, we answer most emphatically, no; te the last, yes. In taking this position, we do not wish to be understood as writing from a stand-point where land is worth $500 to $1,000 per acre (and badly ‘‘ran” at that), manure at two dollars per cord, and other things in proportion ; but rather on land near any of our villages, that can be bought for $80 to $150 per acre, manure from swamp muck, leaf mouid, leached ashes, sods from the roadsides and from the villages,to be had for almost the drawing. Still, we wish to be understood that strawberries can be grown on the first named ground at even six cents per quart, and pay better than the dest crop of potatoes to be found about such cities. And if this is so, one can see at a glance how profitable they will | prove on rich virgin soil, or, in fact, on any soil that will grow good corn or potatoes ; such soil requiring but little, if any, manure, providing the plants are thoroughly worked and well mulched. Some of the most successful cultivators claim that they can raise large and fine crops and vines on poor soil, if it is only kept weld worked and mulched, thus showing that it need not necessarily follow that strawberries cannot be made profitable because land is poor. We admit that if strawberrries are grown on the ‘“‘slip-shod” plan, they will not really prove profitable. Cannot the same be said of any crop, especially if grown on very high priced land? We claim that we can get a far better crop of fruit from strawberry plants than from pig-weeds, chick-weeds. and the like, and the more the ground is occupied by the first, and the less by the last, the better the crop, and vice versa. We cannot “ gather grapes of thorns, or figs of thistles.” One very important fact to be taken into consideration is that it costs no more te grow good and pure varieties than inferior and mixed up sorts; and second, that it costs no more (except in the original plants) to cultivate a row that has been thickly ‘set with plants, than one where the plants were set too far apart—the consequence being that the first form perfect rows, with the ground fully occupied, with no vacan. cies, while the last are very imperfect and the ground not half occupied—the crop on the first being double to triple of the last. We have found how true this last is from bitter experience. We have had rows sixtcen rods long that had been set thickly, plants ten to twelve inches apart in the row, and as these run they formed fine wide matted rows all through, with no vacan- cies, and yielded through the season three to four bushels of fruit, while other rows near them, that were set late in the Spring, or on new sod ground and that died out badly, leaving long vacancies, yielded but half a bushel to a bushel of fruit, or really only about one-fourth as much—both costing the same to prepare the ground, cultiva- tion and labor, the same tax and interest on land, and the same, if not more, work ip mulching and mulching material. It is right here that many make a failure in the business. They set any way almost, and very late in the season, and then if planta 19 ‘ die out badly and the rows are full of vacancies, they get a small crop, and the cry is heard, ‘‘It don’t pay.” Another important point is to SET OUT THE LARGEST AND FINEST SORTS, | even if they do not yield over half to two-thirds of the smaller kinds. Such varieties as Triomphe de Gand, Barnes’ Mammoth, Napoleon III. and Jucunda, always com- mand the highest prices, and if there is a glut in the market, such will always seil at paying prices. Let us illustrate this more clearly by a few figures, taking the average pnces in New York market on the Wilson’s Albany and the largest sorts, and an average crop on a well kept acre. We get 100 bushels of Wilsons, which sell in New York at 123 cents per quart, $4 per bushel, amounting to $400. Deduct picking, 14 cents per quart, $48; commission 10 per cent., $40; express charges, 80 cents per bushel, $80 ; loss and wear and tear of crates and baskets one season to ship 100 bushels that distance, $25, and we have an aggregate of $193. Now take an average crop of the larger sorts named—60 bushels, and the average price in New York the past season, 25 cents per quart, or $8 per bushel, and we have $480. Deduct picking, 1$ cents per quart, $38.40; commission, 10 per cent., $48; express chargos, 40 cents per bushel, $48; loss and wear and tear of crates and baskets, 3-5 of the above #25—$15 —and we have an aggregate of ‘$149.40. Now deduct the first figures, $198, from $400, and we have $207; and the last, $149.40, from $480, and we have $330,60—thus showing what is gained by ae the larger sorts for such a market. We woulc say, however, that there will not be this difference in prices in the smaller towns, and that near such the Wilsons pay much the best, as the consumer cares less for the ap- pearance and more for the reality. Then again, there are times in the large cities when the smaller fruits have scarcely any sale, while the larger bring good baying prices, and when such is the case, the first hardly pay expense of shipping, picking and commission, while the last pay good profits. It will be seen we have not figured in the cost of. plants, raising and cultivation, or interest and taxes on land, &c., as these would be the same in raising both the small and large sorts. Now, these same prices hold as good on the raspberry crop, in comparison to the large or firmer sorts, and the smaller or softer kinds, and also with all other fruit; therefore, it is advisable, if one intends to rely on such large cities for shipping most of their fruits, to plant out largely of the largest, finest appearing varicties, and give them the desé¢ culture, and their profits will be large, while those sending in the smaller sorts will hardly pay . expenses. “We could fill this book with facts that have come under our notice, of persons in all parts of the country that have been successful, and made enormous sums of money from their strawberries—even in markets where the price was very low; the secret being that they grew the best varieties and large crops from small pieces of ground. We consider what one has done, hundreds of others can do. But to return to the first question—‘‘Have strawberries ceased to be profitable ?” They have, and so has any other crop, providing the raiser does not take enough care or interest in them to make them profitable. Suppose a merchant fills his store full of goods, and then leaves them to Tom, Dick and Harry to sell and take care of—he being around a billiard saloon or tavern half the time. Will he find his business profitable ? Or suppose he pays prodigious rents, expenses, &c., and then has a lot of poor un- saleable goods: will he make it pay ? ; : a All that is necessary to make strawberries profitable, is to have your soil in good order, well manured, deeply plowed, well harrowed, plants well and thickly set in the row, and of pure, unmixed sorts. Then keep the ground well stirred with the culti- yator and hoe, no matter whether there are weeds or not, (and, by the way, we believe it is well for us that weeds do grow, for in working the soil to eradicate them we keep it mellow and pulverized, so that plants are not destroyed by the drouth), and last, but not least, ship them in clean, neat baskets or boxes, and our word for. it, you will find them profitable at even six cents per quart, if sold near home, or eight cents if sold at a distance—far more so than the best crop of potatoes that can be grown at the highest rates. ‘‘Take an interest in the business, hate weeds, de wp with the lark, ‘and free with elbow grease,” is our motto. TIME TO SET STRAWBERRIES. In this latitude we set plants in April and May; and September, October and November. : 20 We cannot recommend setting too early in the Fall—as the roots should become well matured before being disturbed, especially if they are to be transported. We have had the best success with Fall setting, from plants set in October—not losing scarcely a plant. This was on light, sandy soil, that does not ‘theave.” In fact, we have had good success with plants set up to the time the ground froze, by merely scattering some coarse litter over the surface before the ground thawed out. | We are often asked the question, ‘‘ Which is the best time to set—Spring or Fall? It does scem to us that it must be apparent to every such questioner, that the sooner the plants are out, the more roots they form—consequently the greater the crop the first bearing season. If set in the Spring, they yield a full crop the next season, while if set in the Fall, they yield but a small crop the next season. If the ground is not ready in the Spring, we should of course prefer to set in the Fall than to wait until the next Spring, as they would yield a small crop the next season, while if set in the Spring, they do not yield any fruit to speak of the first season. In fact, it is better to pick all blossoms off the first season they are planted, as many young plants so exhaust themselves in fruiting that they die out immediately afterwards. This is especially the case with Wilson’s Albany. : g We understand in the extreme South and in California, wherestrawberries commence to ripen in January an‘ February, they set in the Fall. In such localities it would be well for those who order any kind of plants from the North to have them forwarded before the first of December, as winter generally sets in about that time here, after which plants cannot be removed before the 15th of March to the 1st of April. They should be ordered the last of October, so that they can be sent forward the first or second week in December. PREPARATION OF THE SOIL. If the ground is sufficiently rich to grow good potatoes or corn, it will grow as comparatively good strawberries. If not in good order, manure thoroughly with any well rotted compost. New coarse manures are very risky, especially for light soils, for, if the Spring should prove dry, the plants dry out badly. Plow or spade deep when the ground is in a dry condition, for if too wet and soggy, it leaves the surface stiff and bakey If convenient, scatter a liberal supply of well rotted compost over the surface which not only enriches the soil, but acts as a mulch to keep the surface moist, and prevent it from ‘‘ baking.” (i As for the soil necessary to grow strawberries, it has never been our lot to see any that would not grow them,—providing it was sufficiently dry, or could be made so by draining, or if vegetable manures were within reach to be had. The same can be said of all other kinds of Small Fruits that we have had any experience with. We, of course, will admit that the lighter soils are easier and moré economically cultivated. The lighter soils, too, will produce earlier and better flavored fruit, while the heavier soils will produce later and larger fruit. Elevated soils are less liable to be affected by Spring frosts, hence should be selected for the earliest Spring fruit—the strawber- ry, especially the earliest sorts. South and southeast side-hills should be chosen to produce early fruit, and north side-hills, Jate fruit. Thus the season may be extended. TO GROW LARGE FRUIT. : Grow in hills. Mulch Aeavily with straw or hay. Water hhnerally with liquid manure, which can be produced. by filling a barrel full of manure and running rain water through it. Pick off all but one or two fruit stems, and thin out these, and specimens of fruit will be produced that will “astonish the natives” —e&pecially if the variety be of the large sorts. TO PRODUCE FRUIT LATE IN THE SEASON. Pick off all fruit stems as fast as they make their appearance at the usual time. Keep the plants well watered with the liquid manure, and surface shaded with straw or hay, and you will be almost certain of a fair crop in September or October, al MULCHING MATERIAL. ‘The best for this purpose is clean rye straw, or hay of any kind, swale grass, corn stalks, or crushed sorghum stalks. If these are mot to be had, well rotted tan bark, saw-dust, or planing-mill shavings will answer. If the latter could be thrown in heaps, and a little lime scattered through it, and remain thus for a few months before using, it makes one of the best mulching materials. Many parties have tried, with good results, the practice of sowing oats among their vines, late enough in the Summer (say July) to prevent them from ripening. ‘These fall down through the Winter, and make a fine mulch, evenly distributed over the entire surface. g There is no part of the cultivation of Small Fruits that pays better than mulching the vines, for by so doing they will yield fully dowdle the crop, and double the size fruit, besides acting as a , WINTER PROTECTION. This has become w necessary practice with those who arc having the best success in growing Small Fruits. Any of the above material scattered thinly over the surface, tate in the Fall, or early Winter, will prevent the ground from “heaving,” which ia .the ruination of many strawberry plantations that are almost perfection in the Fall. Let it be remembered, that the germ of the fruit-buds are formed in the Fall, and consequently, if plants are disturbed by the action of the frosts, the bud mwst be proportionally damaged ; therefore the great importance of preventing this “ heay- ing” of the soil. To do this, swdden freezings and thawings of the surface must be guarded against and prevented. This is easily accomplished by merely scattering enough mulching over the surface to shade it. : After Spring opens, it is a good plan to pass over the plantation and loosen up this mulching, especially if it be coarse, heavy material, so as to allow a free circulation of air to the soil; for we have become satistied that soil is “soured” by allowing such to lay bound close to the surface, and the plantation damaged by such causes. Herein is the trouble why many propagators denounce sorghum bagassa, If they would stir it up after Spring opens, and draw it away from over the crowns of the plants, they would find it one of the best materials for mulching. TAKING UP PLANTS FOR SETTING. Persons who have not had the experience in setting out strawberry plants, can have no idea how important it is to have plants taken up with the roots all kept straight, and packed thus, (if they are. to be shipped.) We would & prefer to pay $4 per 1,000 for plants taken up and tied § in bunches, as represented by Fig. 8, than one-half the Price, when they are taken up aad thrown into barrels 7 or boxes ‘‘hilter skilter,” as is generally done by those who sell plants “cheap.” Hig. 8. When taken up for sett-ug, the ground should be loosened up with a fork, and tne plants carefully raised with one hand and placed in the other with the roots straight- ened out, and the top and runners kept above the hand; as fast as a handfull is ta en up, press the bunch close and cut off all superfluous leaves and runners; then place in layers in boxes or baskets, or lie in bunches as shown above. If taken up and kept in this way, one good active man will set from 3,000 to 5,000 plants Nes day, while if thrown in promiscuously as taken up, it will take at least one-half of a person’s time to straighten out the roots and pick off runners so that they will be fit to set, and consequently double the time and expense is made in setting. To show this more clearly we present here a drawing of a plant, the root of which has been kept straightened (Fig. 9), and another (Fig. 10) that has not been kept straight. Any person will see at a glance that the straightened root is in fine shape for setting with- out any tronble, while the other has got to be all straightened out before it can be set properly. 22 Fig. 10. LARGE AND SMALL PLANTS. Were we to set a large plantation of strawberries, where we should have to trust more or less to “help” to set it, we should prefer a small medium size piant, or even if we were obliged to set them all ourselves, we should prefer such, for this reason— a small plant that has but few roots like Fig. 12, is more easily handled. The roots’ Fig. 11. , Fig. 12. are quicker spread out, and are not likely to be jammed into the ground, tangled up or crossing over each other. The soil strikes every root and fibre and packs around ail better, so that no air penetrates to them, drying them out; while the larger root Fig. 11 cannot be set without crossing them and getting them into the ground ‘ina heap,” and, with a large share of the plants, the air works in, drying out the roots and even ruining them with careless hands. We would much prefer to have the smallest strawberry plants than the largest, for we have always noticed in passing over a plantation a few days after setting, that those plants that failed to grow were the largest plants, and on pulling them out we would almost invariably find that they had been ‘“ doubled all up,” and the air getting in quickly destroyed them. Therefore, our advice is to any party who orders plants, not to, lay so much stress on large plants, but be more particular to order them ‘‘ tied in bunches, with the roots kept straight.” GROWING PLANTS FOR RE-SETTING. Set them close in the rows, and let them root in thickly together. By so doing, they do not grow to be such overlarge plants, and will form roots sufliciently large ta transplant. ‘ 23 DIRECTIONS FOR SETTI NG STRAWBERRIES _ Have the ground well plowed and harrowed, running over with the harrow the last time the opposite direction (or at right angles) from what tue rows are to run, so that the tooth mark will not blind the mark of the marking cord. Draw the cord where the rows are intended, drive down the stake at both ends, and walk upon or press it to the ground with the back of a hoe. This leaves a plain mark to set the plants by. In field culture, where we want to make as rapid work as possible, we have two cords and one person at cach end. Then draw the cords straight and tight, where the rows are intended, and set the stakes. Both persons then walk upon one cord until they meet and then go back upon the other. Thus, by having two cords, two rows are marked off by going one “bout. » A number of rows are thus marked off ready for setting. Another plan for marking out when very large plantations are to be set and it is desirable to get the plants in as quick as possible, providing the ground is free from sod or other incumbrances, and in good order, is to plow out straight furrows the proper distance apart, and set the plants in crown fingers these as fast as one person can straighten and drop the roots, by placing the plant against the perpendicular side of the furrow with one hand and drawing in dirt up to the top of the with the other, holding the plant in the left hand as represented by Fig. 13, with the roots spread out in shape and ‘held so by two on the back side and thumb in front against the land side of the furrow, and drawing in dirt with the right hand against the plant, pressing it closely around the roots. To set by the cord marks, use a dibble made similar to these, (Fig. 14,) holding it in the right hand. Thrust itinto , the earth the depth the roots are long, (if the Fug. 13. roots are too long and spindling, it is better to nip them off a third or more.) Then it works back and forth both ways, so that the hole will be large enough to admit the root, spread out fan shape, and held as above described, holding it thus, with the crown a trifle below the surface, running the dibble down an inch or so away from the plant at the top, and the point of the dibble, so thrust in that it will be in close proximity to the root at the bottom, then press the top ' of the dibble towards the plaut, packing the soil up firmly against it, filling up the last + hole made by the dibble when it is withdrawn, and the setting-is done. it 1s a. small lot of some valuable high priced sort, and it should be dry, pour a little water in the hole with the roots and fill in quickly with dirt, and shade for a day or two after setting —although if roots are thoroughly saturated or “puddled” just before setting, there will not be any failures to speak of, providing they are well spread out. The safest. and best way to set such, however, is to make a small hole and in the center place a handfull of soil, rounded up in a pyramidal form, over which spread out the roots as represented by Fig. 15, covering all over firmly up to the crown. Fig. 1}. CARE OF PLANTS AFTER SETTING. The most important is to keep well cultivated and hoed, and to commence doing 80, too, before the weeds start or the surface gets baked. Herein is where most people make a failure in growing strawberries. ‘They put off hocing too long after ¥ a4 they are set, and by so doing allow the weeds to get started, and thus necessitating a long, tedious job in finger picking; besides, in picking out the weeds, the plants are liable to be disturbed and destroyed—especially by careless employes ; therefore the necessity of commencing early and going through the plantation gften with fork, hoe and cultivator. Remember that it is casier to run over a bed three or four times if there are no weeds, than once if weedy; and, besides, the plants are benefited so much by this oft repcated cultivation ; and too, if worked over before weeds start the fork-hoe or an iron rake can be used very rapidly in the rows, killing all little weeds that are just germinating, and keeping the surface ina fine friable condition. Use a cultivator that will loosen up the soil deeply, leaving it smooth and level behind, and not ridged up. One of the best for this purpose, and especially for loosening up and pulverizing the soil after it has become hardened by pickers passing over it so much in fruiting season, is ‘‘Pzrry’s SoartrizR.” It is so easily guided, running through the ground so steadily that it can be run up very closely to the rows, and leaves the soil in the best plight for plants to grow. We have also used a common harrow. tooth cultivator, which answers very well for running through a young plantation to keep the surface stirred up, although worthless after weeds have got started, or on ground that has become hardened. Just before winter sets-in cover the beds slightly with the mulch- ing. This can be left on in the spring until after the fruiting season, if the ground. should not be too weedy, merely loosening up the surface with a fork-hoe, and if too foul, it is better to give the plantation one thorough cleaning the last of April, or just. before they blossom. This can be done by drawing the mulching into every alternate row, and after cultivating these, draw it all into the rows cleaned, and clean out the balance, after which scatter the mulch evenly around the plants. ; The mulch is not only a protection to the plants through the winter, but it keeps the fruit clean and finer in every respect. In localities where snow lays over the surface most of the winter, and the ground does not ‘‘heave,” mulching is not so necessary, or if used, need not be put on so liberally. Another very good protection to the roots isto plow earth up to the plants, leaving a trench half way between and drawing the same away early in the spring. It is also necessary to draw a little more earth around the crown each year after fruiting season, as the new roots form above the old crown. If, however, plenty of compost is added around the plants each year after fruiting, it answers for this purpose, besides stimu- ~lating them into an immediate luxuriant growth. Plantations kept in this way will average, in the row, eight quarts to the rod, or about 150 bushels per acre of the best bearing sorts, while, if even ordinary cultivation is given, good bearing sorts will average half that amount. One good thorough cleaning or forking in April or May is all that is necessary until after fruiting season. As soon as they are through bearing, scatter a liberal quantity of rotted compost over the surface, and spade or plow between ie ae as deep as possible, loosening it up in the rows between the plants with a ork-hoe. CROOKED AND STRAIGHT ROWS. In setting all kinds of fruit, care should be taken to set the rows straight. Fig. 1e shows plainly the importance of this. It will be seen at a glance that the straight. rows can be run up very closely to with the cultivator, while it will be impossible to get close up to each plant in the crooked row, consequently there will be a much wider space left, as shown by the lighter shading, to clean out by hand labor. Our rule has _ been to do all we can with horse labor. 20 DIFFERENT MODES OF CUTLURE. There are many different tastes and opinions astothe best way to grow strawberries, some preferring one and some another mode of culture. Soil, climate and varieties have very much to do with it, for some kinds, such as Downer, Ida, Wilson, &e., yield fair crops by any of the different modes of growing and in almost any soil and climate; while such sorts as Jucunda, Triomphe de Gand, Barnes’ Mammoth, &c., require rich soil, close attention, the best culture, and to be grown in hills and well mulched to produce the best results. Those varieties that are hardy and have given ie satisfaction in all parts of the country, and that succeed well by any of the dif- erent methods of culture, we have prefixed a * to, while those that should have more careful attention and be grown in ‘‘ hills” or ‘‘hill and row system,” and that require the highest state of culture, we have not prefixed any star to. The first are not as large sorts, while the last are of the finer, better kinds. The hill system is objected to by many, in the colder portions of owr country, on account of not standing the extreme cold as well as when growninmatted rows. This may be the case with many sorts that are liable to over-bear and put out new roots slowly. Any person, by examining the figure of the large strawberry plant in this work, will see how the roots are formed. Now, as soon as they are through fruiting, the rew roots grow out adove the old, and require soil to be drawn up to them—that is, , wit) many varieties. The Triomphe, Jucunda, and some other sorts, not only root abo e, but down as far as theold root extends ; hence the former are easily ‘‘heaved” by we frost and damaged, while the latter are not so easily affected in that way, and are therefore better adapted to hili culture. Any person can judge as to the different varieties in this respect, and learn which are the best adapted for hill culture by ex- amining the roots ofa plant, say three or four weeks after bearing season. Those sorts that throw out new roots and fibers all the way down the old root, are better adapted to hill culture, and will stand 2 number of seasons without renewing’; while those that throw out ald their new roots above the old are not adapted to hill culture, or at least cannot be relied upon for more than two good crops. On the whole we prefer a medium ground, adopting neither, if fruit is our main object. We much prefer what we shall describe as the “hill and row,” for either garden or field culture, and while we admire the strict ‘‘ hill” system, where everything is favorable to it, yet we must say that it has some objections, one of these being that, if grubs kill out a hill here and there, there will be an entize vacancy in the row, and another being that many very productive sorts, such as Wilson’s Albany, are apt to die out from over bearing —especially the second season ; while if allowed to throw out runners and form three or four plants to each hill Jate in the fall, as described hereafter, the fruitfulness is not affected and plants are there standing to take the place of theold ones. However, we will endeavor to explain the different methods of culture and comments on cach, First, the STOOL OR HILL SYSTEM. € % . fi ‘ 3 For garden culture, set one foot by eighteen inches or two feet, and for field culture two to two and a half feet each way, or rows two and a half or three feet apart, and one foot apart in the row, thus giving a chance to do nearly all the work with a fine tooth narrow cultivator or harrow. Keep well cultivated and hoed and the runners eut off. The latter need not necessarily be done as fast as.they make their appearance, but after a few have started out from each hill, and before they set any plants. By- waiting thus a number can be taken in the hand at once and clipped off very fast with ' g pair of sharp shears or sharp knife, or by attaching to the side of the cultivator a: sharp wheel made out of an old buz saw. It is not necessary to cut the runners off 26 mode v. be vlait. Even if two or three inches of the runner 1s left next to the plant they win de uv harm. A good, smart woman will go over an acrein a day or two, and three times cutting will generally be enough. ig. 17 is a fair representation of a hill in the latter part of the season, and the two rows over Jig 19 show their appear- ance when well kept. . Many seem to have a strange idea as to the meaning of “Hill” culture, supposing they must make a mound the same as for sweet potatoes, and put the plant out on top of this mound. Strawberries should never be set thus—not on ground that is raised a particle above the level—if anything it is better to set them below the level, for, as they form new roots, as before explained, they will find their way on top of a mound fast enough without being first set thereon. The term “Hill” comes simply from their being grown with the runners kept clipped off. : There is no doubt but what, when grown in this way, the ground well enriched and the same forked and worked in with a cultivator each year after bearing, and the soil kept well pulverized with such an implement as Perry’s Scarifier, the largest and finest fruit can be obtained, and that, too, that will sell for the highest market. prices. Just before winter sets in, cover the beds slightly with the mulching. This can be Jeft on in the spring until after the fruiting season, if the ground is not too weedy,. merely loosening up the surface with a fork-hoe, and if too foul it is better togive the plantation one thorough cleaning the last of April, or just before theyblossom. This can be done by drawing the mulching into each alternate row, and after cultivating. them, draw it into the rows cleaned, and clean out the balance, after which scatter the © mulch evenly around the plants. 5 The mulching is not only a protection to the plants through the winter, but it keeps the fruit clean and finer in every respect. In localities where snow lays over the sur- face most. of the winter, and the ground does not ‘‘ heave,” mulching is not so neces sary, or, if used, need not be put on so liberally. Another very good protection to the roots is to plow dirt up to the plants, leaving a trench half way between, and drawing the same away early in the spring. It is also necessary to draw a little more dirt around the crown each year after fruiting season, as the new roots form above the old crown. If, however, plenty of compost is added around the plants each year after fruiting, it answers for this purpose, besides stimu- lating them into an immediate luxuriant growth. Plantations kept in this way will average one quart to the hill, while if even ordinary cultivation is given, good bearing sorts will average half that amount. One good thorough cleaning or forking in April or May is all that is necessary until after fruiting season. As soonas they are through. bearing, scatter a liberal quantity of rotted compost over the surface, spade, plow or cultivate between the rows as deep as possible, loosening it up in the rows between the lants with a fork-hoe, and cut off all runners that are starting, and all of the-old, dead eaves. The latter is a very essential point, for if the old top is allowed to remain on, the plant will remain in a dormant state for weeks, forming no new roots, while, if cut off, they start out new roots immediately, and by fall form an immense fibrous root, and large, luxuriant top. Keep the ground well worked, runnerscut off, and mulched as before described. ; THE MATTED, OR ALTERNATE ROW SYSTEM. Fig. 18. For garden culture, set one foot in the row, «nd rows two fe culture, rows three and a half to four feet apart. Mark out calaet pene estes described. Keep clean with the fork and «ultivator. Train therunners along the row as they grow out, and they will soon form thick, matted rows, about one foot to eighteen inches in width, presenting a ncat appearance, as indicated by the th.ee rove 7 over Fig. 18 This can be done by keeping the cultivator going through them quite often, narrowing it down as the rows widen out with plants. Before winter sets in, scatter a liberal quantity of rotted compost among the vines, thereby protecting them from freezing, enriching the surface, and acting asa fine mulch among the vines the following season. Work among them thoroughly with the fork and cultivator just about the time they commence to blossom. AS soon as they are through fruiting plow or spade between the rows, turning the edge of the rows under, leaving them about six inches in width. Level the ground down and work the rows out clean, tearing out some of the plants if they should be matted too thickly together. A light, two-horse harrow answers this purpose well, or, what is still better, ““Thomas’ Smoothing Harrow and Broadcast Weeder,” as it scratches the ground nicely ameng the plants, by passing over the plantation across the rows. By this operation the fresh ground gets drawn in among the plants. Scatter manure among them, keep clean, and take same care as before described. After these rows have occupied the same place for three or four years, the runners can be allowed to run from the rows and fill up every row, allowing all to fruit, and after fruiting, plow the space occupied by the o/d rows under, leaving about a foot in width of the new plants ; allow these to fruit, and take the same care as above described. If the ground is kept well manured and clean, they can occupy the same ground for years. One great objection to this method is that it requires so much finger picking to keep clean, which is very laborious. When grown thus, the weeds should not be allowed to get started early in the season. If they do, it will be impossible to keep them clean afterwards. They should be kept thoroughly cleaned out, and not a weed allowed to _ grew before the plants commence throwing out runners. ‘ HILL AND ROW SYSTEM. Fig. 20. . Fig. 21. We have noticed for the past few years that when runners have been kept off from plants until quite late in the season, and then allowing a few to grow and take root, that the young plants formed from such were very strong, and bore large crops of fruit the following season. This can be accounted for from the fact of the plant having the full strength of its root, obtained a strong, full growth, and where a few runners were allowed to grow and root, they partook of the strength and vigor of the parent plant. We have, therefore, satisfied ourselves from experiments that this is one of the best, if not the best, methods of growin strawberries, both for home use and market. By thus keeping the runners off until late in the season, it gives a chance to work the rows out clean with cultivator and hoc up to the time when weeds stop growing, or if afew _ do grow they cannot ripen their seed. Then, by allowing the runners to grow, and che ground stirred up, just enough plants’ will form between the original or parent 28 plant to form a matted, narrow row, similar to Fig. 20,. ‘These rows will yield as fine fruit as those kept strictly in hills, while at the same time, by hoeing out the old plants every two or three years, and leaving a new plant between each old original plant, the bed is:'as good as new each year—in fact, we believe it to be‘one of the best ‘ renewal systems that can be practiced, and the only one that will produce large crops of large fruit every season. Of course these several plants that are allowed to set should be cleaned out after each crop and runners kept off, same as before, MATTED HILL SYSTEM. This is practiced by many. Set one strong plant, or, if small, two plants, three feet each way. Keep the cultivator going both ways, and the plant free from weeds. As they throw out runners keep the cultivator going through them as often as possible both ways, having it set so that the two hind teeth will be about two feet in width.’ In this way the runners will be thrown around so as to set the plants close in around the original plants, and by this means soon form a matted hill, as shown in Fig. 21. After they have set sufficiently thick, the cultivator can be narrowed down to about eighteen inches in width, and kept this width the rest of the season, keeping it going through both ways as often as possible, until the ground freezes. Then mulch as before described. We would advise, however, setting not to exceed 24 feet each way, and keep runners off until quite late, as recommended in the ‘‘ Hill and Row System.” and then allowa few plants to set, say four to five, around each-hill. Many cultivators advocate and prefer what is termed, the ANNUAL SYSTEM. Which is to set the plants 1 foot by 33 or four feet. Keep well cultivated the first year, same manner as described in the ‘‘ Matted Row System.” Allow them to bear the second season, or first fruiting season, and then plow under. If a person has plenty of land this is a very good plan. In doing so, however, new beds must be set every spring. If the plantation gets foul or weedy, it is no more trouble to’set a new plan sation than to clean out the old one. If, however, plenty of manure is to be had, and one has but a few acres of land, we would advise keeping the same plantation in fruit-° ing for at least three or four years. Another manner of growing them in many parts of the country and advocated by many, we must truthfully call the SLIP SHOD SYSTEM. This is to plant out, cultivate and hoe once or twice, and then, “let them run,’ covering the entire surface with plants and weeds. If there is danger of too many weeds going to seed they pass over and mow them down: Others let them get as weedy as they will and then burn over the plantation after they get ripe, which we think is preferable. After they are through fruiting a plow is run through the planta- tion every three or four feet both ways and the ground all harrowed over. They are then allowed to run,and the same care taken as before described. Of course, the more manure they can have scattered among them the better they do, and the longer they can occupy the same ground. We would not advise this plan, but still, when help is scarce and high, it is sometimes a necessity. When this systemis practiced, we would advise a liberal quantity of mulching to be scattered among the plants every fall. HILL AND MATTED ROW SYSTEM. After growing them in hills, as before described, for two or thr - unti they commence to fail in bearing large crops—they can be dllgwed eo can. aa fon matted rows. Some varieties, like the Wilson’s Albany, will only bear two or three ° good crops in hills, when they must be allowed to run. ‘Other sorts, like t i : de Gand, will yield large crops for a number of years in Biceeasie i: if Pesan oe 29 GROWING STRAWBERRIES AMONG RASPBERRIES, BLACKBERRIES, &c. When these are grcwn in hills both ways, strawberries can be set half way between each way, and kept in hills or matted rows, as before described. When the raspberries, &c., are grown in rows, strawberries can be set half way between the Tows, and grown in matted rows for two seasons, or until the raspberries, blackberries, gooseberries, or whatever they may be, get so large as to make it impossible to Work them out with the strawberries between them. RENEWING STRAWBERRY PLANTATIONS. First decide on the year you wish to remove the old plants. As soon as the runners have attained the length of a foot or more, select the.strongest from each hill, place the end of it in the center of the square formed by four hills, of which the hill to which the runner in question is attached forms one of the corners. Fig. 22. As shown in Fig. 22, A is the old hill, B the new. When the end of the runner is placed in position, sprinkle a little dirt on it, so that it will be more certain to take root. Four weeks from this time the runner will have formed a new plant, with from six to eight leaves, and a myriad of strong, healthy roots. It is best now to sever the runner, as the new plant has sufficient roots to keep it in a growing condition. Late in the fall pull up.the old plants, and place them over the new ones, with a small handful of dirt on each one, to keep the elements from removing them during the winter. VARIETIES. Those marked with an (H,) are perfect blossoms, or Hermaphrodite, and those with a (P,) imperfect blossoms, or Pistillates; the former producing full crops by them- seives, while the latter requires every fifth or sixth row of the former planted among them as a fertilizer. Those sorts with a star prefixed succeed well grown by any sys- tem and in all climates, or on any soil; while the others require extra care and are grown only in ‘‘hills” or ‘hill and row system.” As : ; * Metcalf’s Early, (H.)—Claimed by its originator and. original disseminator as being very early, and yielding a large crop in a few days’ time, thus making it a very valuable acquisition as a profitable market fruit. ; . * Downer’s Prolific, (H.)—Yields the bulk of its crop éarly, when fruit sells for very high prices, and, with us, one year after another, as great a bearer as any of our old tried sorts, and its extreme hardiness makes it a very remunerative sort indeed. It has received the highest number of votes in many societies, as being the most profita- dle market sort, and this, tdo, with the Wilson’s Albany as one of its competitors. In rows, it yields as good crops as any sort; but in dlls the crop is enormous, and fruit double the size. Color light scarlet ; shape nearly round; flavor fair; size large, and a certain yielder every year. Originated in Southern Kentucky, and succeeds equally well in the most Northern or Southern latitude. * French, (H.)—Another very early sort. Better to be grown in Aiiis, and grown thus forms enormous crowns—the hiils averaging a foot across the top, and conse- quently yielding very large crops, all of which are picked early in a few days’ time. 30 thereby making it a very valuable market sort. Fruit beautiful scarlet, flavor very delicious ; large size, and uniformly so. Originated in New Jersey, and proves ex- tremely hardy wherever tried. *Philadelphia, (H.)—Most delicious early sort we have, and yields its whole. crop of good sized, bright scarlet fruit at three or four pickings. *Nicanor, (H.)—Plant very hardy and vigorous. It commences to ripen in a few days before the Early Scarlet, and continues up to the very latest ; thus making it profita- ble at both ends of the season. Fruit from one to ove and a quarter inches in diam- eter, very regular and uniform in size, roundish conical, bright scarlet; more firm and not so acid as Wilson. Our standard carly sort. Duncan, (H.)—Among the newer sorts this is one of the best, Its peculiar, aromatic, delicious flavor makes it especially valuable for the garden and home use. Is large and early. Requires rich soil. ad The above seven sorts are all early. * Wilson’s Albany, (H.)—Too well known to require any description. Yields enormous crops everywhere. A week later than any of the above. This sort is badly mixed ‘throughout the country, there being but very few plantations but what have more or less spurious plants mixed in. Hence great care should be taken to get genuine plants. Succeeds well in hills or rows. Originated at Albany, N.Y. Triomphe de Gand, ( H.)—On a heavy soil, with rich cultivation, and grown gnly- in hills, this proves a fine sort. Fruit large; color light scarlet; shape coxcomb and inclined to “sport ;” flavor delicious and fruit late. Foreign. * Kramer, (H.)—-Popular in the Northwest because of its extreme hardiness and pro- ductiveness. : . Feast’s Fillmore, (P.)—A very popular sort in many localities. With us it yields very fair crops of most delicious fruit. It must be grown only in hills to produce well. Fruit when ripe nearly as black as the Black Tartarian Cherry ; size large and very uniform, with a peculiar, delicious, aromatic flavor, highly perfumed, ° Origi- nated in Maryland, and gives good satisfaction wherever tried Medium to late. Longworth’s Prolific, (P.)—Large size ; light crimson ; flesh scarlct, firm, rich aad brisk ; very productive and one of the best. * Chas. Downing, (H.)—Probably no old sort has given more general satisfaction over the country than this. Plant hardy: yields largé crops; flavor delicious; bright scarlet, ee size. We notice Illinois and Westérn horticulturists generally place . it, first on the list. i ; * Essex Beauty, (H.)—A new seedling of great beauty and promise. Is very large and regular in form, deep rich crimson color, fine flavor, carries remarkably well, retain- ing its beauty of color and gloss for a long time, is very prolific, seldom showing any- thing like irregularity in form, bearing its fruit well up from the ground, with many berries of the largest size on each stem, ripening evenly and perfectly. Monarch of the West, (H.)—A fine large variety, good flavor. Its great fault is in having green ends to the fruit, but this does not hurt it for family use, it being one of the best fur that purpose. It must have rich soil and good cultivation, * Green Prolific, (P.)—(See cut on first page of cover.) Still another se: ’g trial: with this truly fine and valuable sort has attached us nS more strongly to tt : "We notice that a large share of our best and most reliable fruit men speak in the most. 31 1 flattering terms of its high value; and what is more significant, it has received general praise by every Fruit Association that we have seen any notice of. Of all tne tried sorts on our grounds we are satisfied this has proved one of the most valuable on account of its extreme hardiness, both through the coldest and most changeable Winters and dryest and hottest Summers, and its wonderful bearing quali- ties every year. We have sent out no sort that we have received more high and flat- tering testimonials from than this, and this, too, from nearly every State in the Union. They yield good crops in rows, but fully triple grown in hills. It forms one of the most astonishing hills we ever saw. Plant of a very dark green; hence its name. It was originated by Seth Boydan, of New Jersey, who has grown within the past three years over twelve thousand seedlings—including the famous Agriculturist—and he pronounces the Green Prolific the best of all. Dr. Trimble and Francis Brill, of N. J., speak of it as the best tried sort. Fruit large size and very uniform, there being scarcely any small berries among them. Shape round; color beautiful orange scarlet; fair flavor and grows well up from the ground. It is pronounced by some a pistillate, but we consider it sufficiently supplied with stamens for a self-fertilizer ; still, it might be well to plant every fifth or sixth row with the Wilson, Downer, or some other fer- tilizmmg sort. We earnestly advise all persons who have not this sort to plant them, knowing from our own experience, and testimonials from others in all parts of the Cony, that it will give satisfaction in every State m the Union. Seasou medcinn to ate. Agriculturist, (H.)—Where this variety succeeds it gives the best satisfaction. Like the Green Prolific and French, it forms enormous ‘stools,” the Wilson being a pigmy to it. Fruit large size, conical, and somewhat flattened; dark crimson, firm, and of the finest flavor. Originated in New Jersey. * Lenning’s White, (H.)—The finest ‘‘ white” variety grown. Large size; per- fectly round; white, with a rich delicate blush on one side; extremely high flavored end highly perfumed. It is one of the most delicious flavored strawberries we have ever tasted, and should be found in every assortment. It is one of our favorites for eanning purposes. Jucunda, (H.)—Misnamed by many ‘‘Knox’s 700.” We can only say that we have never grown a strawberry that run so uniformly large, and of such beautiful scarlet waxen color, as this variety. When it first blossomed we thought it had been over- praised; but when we saw that every blossom formed fruit, and every berry was large—very large—we changed our minds, and became satisfied it was one uf the most valuable market sorts on our grounds. The fruit keeps large up to the very last picking. It succeeds best on heavy rich loam; if not rich, it must be made so with a liberal coating of well-rotted manure. It should be grown only in hills to produce full crops. Season medium to late. Golden Queen, (H.)—Claimed by some as the Trollope’s Victoria. We have pickcd fruit, twenty of which would fill a quart measure, and picked as they run, the average was not over jiffy. Being such fine yielders, and such large beautiful fruit, and yield- ing so very late in the season, makes them one of the most valuable and desirable sorts. * Prouty, (H.}—4 beauty. Sosolid, bears carriage hundreds of miles. Immense yield- er, strong fruit stalks holding the fruit well up from ground; large size ; fruit conical and so beautiful. Originated, we believe‘ with Louis Ellsworth, of Northern Illinois, and highly recommended by him for that trying locality. We have no new sort on our giounds that pleases us better. z * Gapt. Jack, (H.)—Immense yielder ; fruit medium to large, good flavor. Similar to - the Wilson, but better flavor. Originated with Miller, of Missouri. Black Defiance, (H.)—A very large dark-red berry, of superior quality, andexceed- ingly attractive and beautiful. 32 COL. CHENEY STRAWBERRY. * Col, Cheney, (P.)—A cross between the Russell and Triomph de Gand. It has the rich gloss and distinct scarlet of the first, with the luscious meaty character and firm- ness of the latter. The fruit is large and very uniform in size, and enormously pro- ductive, being fully equal in productiveness, with us, to the famous Wilson's Albany. The plant is strong, healthy and robust, resembling the Triomph, but having, nore of the luxuriousness of the Russell. We consider it one of the finest varieties on our grounds. Its peculiar spicy flavoris admired by all. From all parts of the country; and especially from the South, we have the most favorable reports of it. It is per- JSectly hardy, standing the summet’s sun and winter's cold, to perfection. \ 4 a “ail —_— ~———-_ hs ; ei AN\ SEES Meu ( 4 KENTUCKY. ‘ 1 33 * Cumberland Triumph, (H.)—A very fine berry in all respects ; of very large size, fine form, and beautiful color, and excellent quality, and is growing into general fayor. Colfax, (P.)—In sections where other sorts do not stand cold or heat, we recom- mend this sort. Its productiveness is beyond belivf with those who have not seen it. We herewith give what is said of the two noted new strawberries by one of the leading nurserymen of N.J.; * Continental,(H )—Another year’s experience with this variety places it at the head of the list, and in our judgment, ahead of all others in value as a market berry in this section, comprising New Jersey and Eastern Pennsylvania. Although originated in the light soil of New Jersey, it succeeds even better in the heavy soil of Pennsylva- nia, having yielded for Mr. Alfred Felton’ (brogher of the originator,) on his farm at Hartranft Station, Montgomery county, Pa , from asmall patch of about the twelfth - of an acre, at the rate of Over seventeen thousand quarts per acre. Mr. Felton says ‘he wants nothing better. It is meeting with favor wherever tried, and is certainly worthy of general trial all over the country. : : “Cinderella, (H.)—Certainly the most beautiful and perfect in form and color of any known berry, and we venture to say will outsell: any other strawberry it may be _brought in competition with. Above statement fully attested practically in Spring Garden Market the past season. These berries were eagerly bought up earlv-in the morning at 25 and 30 cents per quart, while most other varieties went begging for buy- ers at 8 and 10 cents per quart. Like the Continental, it succecds even better in Penn- sylvania than in its native soil in New Jersey. Parties growing them there say they want nothing better than the Cinderella. -We set it down asone of the most promis- ing, and well worthy of general trial. * Duchesse. (H.)—A valuable early variety, of large size and fine appearance, light . crimson, firm and fine quality. A promising market berry, : The Fowlers’ Prolific and lowa Seedling,—Are two new sorts grown in Iowa that are highly recommended, but we have not given them sufficient trial to describe them at. this time, (1878.) ; ‘ * Crescent Seedling, (H.)—This is beyond question a wonderful strawberry ; its productivenessis astonishing. Fifteen thousand quarts, (468 bushels) have been gath- ered in one season from one acre. In size it is medium to large; in color, brilliant, handsome, and does not get dull when in market ; in quality'it is unsurpasssd, rich, having the peculiar wild flavor. The fruit colors on all sides at once, so that all red Lerries may be gathered, a quality appreciated by market growers ; all berries perfect in form and merchantable. ar : i é * Sharpless Seedling, (H.)—Among the new kinds, we think nothing can compare with this. The fruit is large to very large, an average specimen measuring one and one- half inches in diameter.