CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY FINE ARTS LIBRARY Cornell University Library NA 7610.H78 1913 practical manual of IT 96 177 fine Residence of Mrs. Elizabeth O. T. McKay, at West Medford, Mass. Wm. Y. Peters, Architect. A simple modern treatment of the Colonial, retaining some of the interesting crudeness of the parent style. Cesscicannyiiangernivssinelemed nen iesareiaranins sirens ate asco LAC CUNT Y Fees LOSSES ANAT EE ERSTE LEEdaT ON ALTE TCE Cebit EH ENO ASA gee ESSA ATE SAMHAIN ane ey sleisayaiee Uti casa reppin eae steel atcast teetay on pets neta cia eh okt Se | THE COUNTRY HOUSE A Practical Manual of the Planning and Construction of the American Country Home and its Surroundings. Witten: By CHAS, EDW HOPE Mustrated by EE SODERHOULZ and others. or GARDEN CITY NEW YORK DOUBLEDAY, PAGE AND COMPANY 1913 ‘ACN ‘ALIO NAGUVO ‘SSTYd AITT AMLNNOOD AHL UDIBDUIPUBIG ay, Surpnjsur ‘sasvnsuv] usiasof O7UL WO1DISUBLY fo qDY4 Surpnjour ‘Pandas dd STY B14 UF ANVdWO7) 9 a9Vdg ‘AvaqdTanoqg aq ‘So6r ‘hob1 = 7y814hdory To the home-building public, with the hope that it will be of some practical value to its readers. T is said that a man must needs build three 1 houses before he will have one to suit him. It is the purpose of this work to forewarn him of some of the actual difficulties, that he may avoid the aforesaid expensive preliminaries, and to suggest such various points as are apt to escape his notice in the scheming and laying out of the country house. In preparing this work the author is indebted to many men of professional standing who have kindly offered their help and suggestions, to the many owners who have allowed their houses to be photographed, and to the following works, which may well be consulted by the reader if he should desire to investigate the subject more deeply: “Building Superintendence,” by T. M. Clark; “Building Construction and Superintendence,” by F. E. Kidder; “Construction Details,’ by F. W. Chandler; “Details of Building Construction,” by Clarence A. Maitin; “A Dictionary of Archi- tecture and Building,” by Russell Sturgis; * “The Decoration of Houses,” by Edith Wharton and Ogden Codman, Jt ; “American Sanitary Plumbing,” by James J. Lawler; “ Plumbing Simplified,” by Wm. Paul Gerhard, C.E.; “‘ Hot-Water Heating, Steam and Gas Fitting,” by James J. Lawler; “Heating “ind Ventilation of Resi- dences,” by James R. Willett; “An Outline of Ventilation and Warming,” by James Baldwin; “ Principles of Ventilation and Heating,” by John Shaw Billings; “ Heating and Ventilating Buildings,” by Prof. R. C. Carpenter; ‘The Disposal of Sewerage of Isolated Country Houses,” by Wm. Paul Gerhard, C.E.; ‘House Drainage and Water Service,” by James C. Bayles; * “Water and Water Supply,” by W. N. Corfield, M.D.; “Sinking and Boring Wells,’ by Ernest Spon; “ Water Supply Engineering,” by A. Prescott Folwell; “Modern Methods of Sewerage Disposal,” by Geo. E. Waring, Jr., M. Inst. CE. “Munns’ Practical Land Drainer”; “‘The Private Stable,” by J. A. Garland; “Poultry and Pigeons,” by Hugh Piper; “European and Japanese Gardens,” published by Coates; The Architectural Review; The Brochure Series of Archttectural Illustrations ; Crane Life 1n America. The author is further indebted to Mr. E. E. Soderholtz for his collaboration in the procuring and selecting of photographic material, as well as for many valuable suggestions. His expertness in photography and understanding of architecture have served this volume well. It is regretted that, in some instances, it has been so extremely difficult to discover the architects and owners of certain examples that the author has been obliged to omit the credit which would otherwise have been given. Cuapter I.—SELECTION OF THE SITE Business centre (5)—Sources of supply—Privacy—Public nuisances (6)—Soil (8)—Water supply and drainage (10) —Natural possibilities (11)—Purchase (12)—Title and deed—Style and site (13)—Practical example (15). Cuapter II.—PLanninc THE House ; : ' Client and architect (22)—Rough sketches (25)—Rules of planning (26)—Practical example (32). Cuarpter Ii].—ConstrucTION OF THE SHELL , : Concreting (45)—Underpinning—Piers Soil (42)—Laying out—Foundation (43 (46)—Braced frame (47)—Balloon frame (49)—Floor timbers (51)—Partitions (52) —Roof (54)—Boarding (55)—Floors (56)—Brick walls (§7)—Stone walls—Lathing (58)—Plastering (59). Cuapter IV.—Detaits or FINIsH Cornices (61)—Gutters (64)— See State (65) —Slate—Tile (66)— Flashing (68)—Outside finish (70)—Stucco—Brick (72)—Window and door openings 73)—Stonework (74)—Piazza (75)—Steps—Interior details (76)—Painting (78)— Hardware (79). CuHapter V.—Doors anon Doorways ; : . Early treatment (81)—Colonial (86)—Hardware (38)—Ty pes ee Construction, etc. (93). Cuapter VI.—WINvows ano Winpow Motives : Early treatment (100)—Location, size, etc. (to1)—Types ene ai shades (107—Fittings (108)—Construction (112). Cuarter VII.—Firepiaces, CHIMNEYS AND FIREPROOFING ; Early treatment (117)—Wooden mantels—Embellishment (120)—Accessories (122) , etc. (127)—Fire escapes (133). Cuapter VIII.—Hatts anv Statrways ; Early treatment (136)—The American problem (13 58) Rise and tread ie re =ahie and treatment (141)—Furnishings and embellishments (145)—Construction (146). xi PAGE 22 42 63 80 Too xil CONTENTS—Continued CuHapter [X.—Livinc AND OTHER Rooms : : ; Drawing room (150)—Reception room—Library (152)—Smoking room (154)— “Den” (155)—Billiard room (156)—Morning room (157)—Salon (158)—Ball- room—Music room (161)—Bedchamber (162)—Boudoir—Dressing room (165). CuHapTeR X.—THE Dininc Room anp KITCHEN AND THEIR RELATIONS . Early treatment (166)—Banquet hall (167)—Breakfast room (168)—Dining room (169)—Furniture (171)—Kitchen (172)—Practical example (179). CHapterR XI.—HEatTING, VENTILATION AND LIGHTING Adaptation (183)—Natural heat (184)—The fireplace—The stove (185) —The furnace (186)—Direct radiation (189)—Indirect radiation—Direct-indirect radiation (190)—Systems of steam and hot water (191)—Ventilation (193)—Inlet and outlet locations (194)—General principles (195)—Example (198)—Lighting (201). CuapTerR XII.—PLuMBING ‘ Service (205)—Tank-supply system eee water ihe (es@)-Pipes a= Cocks (213)—Pump (214)—Tanks (217)—Lavatory—Sink (219)—Tubs (220)— Shower bath—Closets (221)—Wastes—Traps (222)—Back-vent system (224)— The simple system (225)—Tests (227). Cuapter XIII].—WateR SuppLy AND DRAINAGE : Problems (228)—Water (229)—Wells (230)—Springs—Storage (236)—The Sri (241)—Pumps (242)—‘‘Under” and ‘‘deep” drainage (243)—Sewerage ee The cesspool (445)—Sub-soil system (247)—Garbage (249). CuapTeR XIV.—OutsulLpincs, Gateways, Etc. Stables (250)—Barns (255)—Poultry houses (257)—Pigeon houses pee osieaeee houses—Ice houses (261)—Boat houses (263)—Bath houses (264)—Swimming pools (266)—Gate lodges (267)—Fences (268)—Gateways (270). CHAPTER XV.—GARDENS AND THEIR ACCESSORIES : First considerations (273)—Formal gardens (275)—House and eas Ge Flowers (278)—Pergola (281)—Arbour and trellises (282)—Summer houses, fences and walls (283)—Steps (284)—Seats (285)—Fountains (286)—Sun dials, statuary and garden pots (287)—Ums, free columns, Herme and lanterns (288)—Bridges and gates—Old models (289). CHapTeR XVI.—ContTRAcT AND SPECIFICATIONS ’ : ; Remarks (299)—Form of contract (300)—Remarks (303)—Form of specifications (303)—Masonry (304)—Carpentry (306)—Metal work (311)—Painting (312)— Plumbing (313). Cuaprer XVII.—Practicat Hints ‘ , ‘ This chapter is arranged alphabetically. PAGE 149 205 228 250 273 299 318 Mee LLUSTRATIONS, House at Bronxville, N.Y. . : : : : Cover inlay. Residence ot Mrs. Elizabeth O. T. McKay ‘ 2 : 4 Frontispiece Old Nichols’s doorway and gates at Salem, Mass. . : : Title page Porch in the style of French half-timber work ; : : Dedication A modern hallway ; : ‘ : : : ; ? : Preface An Italian jar : : : : : ; . Contents House on the “‘ North Shore,” Gs : : : : 1 of Illustrations PAGE Facing Chapter I—Entrance Gates to “Maxwell Court” . ‘ é . 2 Heapinc, CuapTerR I.—The Maine hill country. : A ‘ ‘ 3 A California avenue of palms ; : : : . ‘ z ‘ 4 The old Royal House, Medford, Mass. . g : . ‘ . : 5 A bit of the Berkshire Hills. : ‘ ‘ ; ‘i ‘ : ‘ a A summer cottage at Boothbay, Me. : : : : ‘ : - 9 The lodge at ““Yaddo,” Saratoga . ‘ d ; ; : : ae An estate on the Hudson River ‘ . 3 ‘: : . <— 7T Looking across Newfound Lake, N. H. ‘ ‘ . ‘ é ; The Orchard House, Concord, Mass. : ‘ : : ; : 13 A site in Roxbury, Mass. , : : . . ¢ . . « A California vineyard . : ‘ : . . . . . - a4 xiil xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS—Continuea On the Penobscot River, Me. : A site on the Hudson River. A practical example A hill site in Dutchess County, N. Y. View of Frenchman’s Bay Old birch growth on the Maine coast Heapinc, CuapTer II.—A $12,000 house of field stone House at Osterville, Mass. Brick and stucco house at Manchester, Mee : An excellent adaptation of English and French half-timber a Log and stone house at Bar Harbor, Me. Residence of E. S. Hand, Esq., Southport, Conn. Stucco house in the English influence An excellent example of English design Plan of the practical example on the Maine coast Plan and views of the site on the Maine coast Stucco house at Glen Ridge, N. J. Another view of the Glen Ridge house A Most interesting stone house The Old Royal House, Medford, Mass. A stucco house at Cohassett, Mass. Entrance side of Cohassett house A gambrel-roofed Colonial house An eight-room gardener’s cottage House of General Harrison Gray Otis Heapinc, Cuapter II].—A modern Colonial house Fig. 1.—Showing the use of batter-boards House at Lawrence Park : Fig. 2.—Sections showing wood and tae construction Central motive of the Hammond House Fig. 3.—Braced framing Fig. 4.—Balloon framing Showing rough stucco walls : “ Maxwell Court,” Rockville, Conn. Fig. 5.—Section through frame of house A simple cottage House at Bronxville, N. Y. Showing a rough-stone and shingle engahinutten Portion of old Whipple House : : . ; : PAGE . 15 ro 06 17 18 19 20 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 cq 32 33 34 35 30 37 - 5 40 41 42 43 43 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 a3 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued House at Chestnut Hill, Mass. ; “Foregate,”’ the summer home of Mrs. Gane Price “Fastover,” at Wyoming, N. J. A modern development of the Colonial A simple New York State type Court side of Royal House HeapiInc, CHaptTer IV.—A mission house Fig. 6.—Sections of wooden cornices Sos of house near Philadelphia, Pa. “Maxwell Court” Entrance motive to house in Saumpseus Mass. Entrance motive to house at Peterboro, N. H. Entrance to a brick house : Entrance motive to house at Locust Walley, Te 7 Living side of house at Kingston, N. Ns, Entrance motive to house at Philadelphia Servants’ quarters of house at Newburgh Portion of house at Bryn Mawr, Pa. Fig. 7.—Portion of chimney : Showing difference between pine and ede araeles Fig. 8. Sete square window Entrance to ‘Belle Aire” Fig, g.—Several types of stone eal Fig. 10.—A portion of brick or stone gable Three chimneys adapted to the English style . Showing an open cornice, etc. Page from modern hardware catalogue Old music gallery at Alexandria, etc. Heapinc, Cuapter V.—Old Dutch door Old doorway on Washington Street, Boston Doorway of old Custom-house, Portsmouth, N. H. Doorway to Hammond House Doorway on the lines of the Renaissance Doorway in the Chase House An adaptation of the Japanese The old Longfellow doorway Street entrance to Royal House Courtyard entrance to Royal House xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS—Continued Interior doorway at Gunston Hall Interior doorway at Whitehall, Md. ; : Fig. 11.—Diagram showing parts of an ee panel door Decrway of Hammond House : : Fig. 12.—Old and new methods of door construction hale door at Alexandria, Va. Doorway at old Whitehall, Md. Old doorway at Deerfield, Mass. Fig. 13.—Fine example of Colonial architraves An interior doorway An unusual door-hood . Fig. 14.—The veneered door A modern doorway at Arlington, Mass. Heapinc, Cuapter VI.—A modern treatment of the circular bay French window motive . Modern Colonial bays House at Chestnut Hill, Mass. An example of the English casement Since ; Entrance motive to house at Cambridge, Mass. Entrance motive to house at Lynn Mass. Mullioned window in old house at mais leeds Interior of (above) window : Fig. 15.—One method of building the casing Old church window at Newburgh, N. Y. Fig. 16.—Plan of three-opening mullioned window Portion of house at Wayne, Pa. A semicircular bay Excellent glass motives Window in old Bowne House A second-story bay A bay at Newburgh, N. Y. Fig. 17.—Section of a simple window frame Fig. 18.—Section of a window in a brick wall Fig. 19.—Showing the construction of a “French” window Entrance motive to the Emerton House . ; Fig. 20.—Showing the construction of a cellar window Heapinec, Cuapter VII.—In the Peabody Institute Hooded fireplace in studio. . . . se ‘ PAGE 10¢ IOI 102 102 103 104 105 106 107 107 108 108 109 109 110 Ill 112 112 113 II4 114 115 116 117 118 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS—Continued Fig. 21.—Showing the use of the old fire frame A delightful example of delicate detail Mantel in the Nichols House, Salem, Mass. A modern hooded Gothic example . A library alcove at Chestnut Hill 3 e Fig. 22.—Showing a safe method of chimney and freplate construction An interesting dining-room fireplace Parlour mantel at Jamaica Plain, Mass. Old mantel from the Lee House A well-tied fireplace motive An old Salem mantel Fig. 23.—Showing a fireproof staircase Old fireplace and accessories A most excellent rendering Mantel at Fairhaven, Mass. : Fig. 24. —Showing an effective form of fire escape Fireplace in a Bohemian cottage : An American development of the Hnalish Renaissarice A simple, big and home-like treatment “Indian Harbor,” Greenwich, Conn. HeapING, CHaptTer VIII.—A simple and well-lighted hall An upper stair-landing . : ; Old Colonial stairs at Jamaica Plain, Wass Landing (of above) A Japanese rendering at Fall River Mass. Upper hallway (of above) ‘ A modern hall at Hingham, Mass. An example at Cambridge, Mass. A simple staircase Old stairway at Carters (iat Va. An Elizabethan treatment An old staircase at Alexandria, Va. A modern hall at Williamstown, Mass. Fig. 25.—Showing the construction of stairs HEADING, CHAPTER IX.—Den in house at Overbrook, Pa. Living hall at Bayville, L. I. : A billiard room at Cambridge, Mass. A general living room at Cohasset, Mass. xvil PAGE 1ig 119 120 121 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 134 135 135 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 143 144 145 146 147 148 14G 150 150 151 XVili LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS—Continued Showing musical instruments . : Parlour in the style of Louis XV. and XVI. Living room at Fall River, Mass. “Den” in house at Salem, Mass. Parlour at Salem, Mass. Living room at Newburgh, N. Y. Billiard room at Jamaica Plain, Mass. An informal general living room Reception room of Messrs. Price and Veta Library at Montclair, N. J. . Corner in library at Kingston, N. Y. A simple chamber : A chamber alcove Dressing room at Cohasset, Mass. An unusual “den” at Osterville, Mass. HEADING, CHapTER X.—A winter dining room A dining room at Montclair, N. J. Dining room at Wenonah, N. J. An old-time kitchen A dining room at Bronxville, N. Y. A simple dining room at Magnolia, Mass. Fig. 26.—Showing an isolated kitchen The wainscoting and the ceiling are noticeable Dining room at Jamaica Plain, Mass. Dining room at Winchester, Mass. A dining room at Montclair, N. J. A fine, simple design A kitchen corner . ; Fig. 27.—Section through a iether sae Everything is simple and to the point Fig. 28.—Section through draught box This shows the exposure of the kitchen utensils A light and convenient kitchen A kitchen dresser ; The feeling of simple comfort Fig. 29.—Section through dresser Fig. 30.—Plan showing a good outlay Fig. 31.—Detail of a revolving service box PAGE 151 153 155 156 ED? 158 158 159 160 162 162 163 163 164 165 166 167 168 168 169 170 171 171 172 i uy 7 ae 175 176 176 V7 178 178 179 179 180 180 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS—Coatinued Kitchen and dining-room suite House at Woodmere, L. I. HeEapInc, CuapTer XI.—A fireplace of stone Sun parlour in Japanese house A New England sun parlour Hanging vestibule lantern A fireplace in Colonial kitchen Old mantle in the Ladd House A hall fireplace at Wynnewood, Pa. An adaptation from the Japanese Fig. 32.—Section showing indirect system Fig. 33.—Section showing direct-indirect system A glazed-tile mantel A parlour mantel at Lynn, Mass. A parlour mantel at Salem, Mass. . A dressing-room mantel _ A good fireplace of tile The screen of this unique bracket ane Exterior bracket lantern Mantel in living room Plans and section showing eercienon al heating Hanging electrolier A hanging electric lantern Electric sconces Electric table lamps Heapinc, CuapTerR XIJ.—Portion of a small bathroom . Fig. 34.—Section showing the plumbing of a house . Fig. 35.—Section through hot-water boiler A kitchen range with suspended hot-water boiler A large soapstone kitchen sink An elaborate structure of brick and stone A summer house An excellent example of shingle ee Example of popular adaptation End of a first-story laundry A laundry stove ; ' A good example of wieder bathroom Fig. 36.—Showing two types of pumps xix PAGE 181 182 183 184 185 185 186 187 183 189 190 190 191 192 193 194 195 196 196 107 roo 200 202 203 204 205 206 207 208 209 211 211 211 211 212 213 214 214 xx LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS—Continued Portion of a bathroom A double lavatory A simple porcelain lavatory ‘ : Fig. 37.—Horizontal section of a wooden tank Portion of a small bathroom . Tin-lined copper sink Fig. 38.—Section of basin Fig. 39.—Section of a modern akon Heese Fig. 40.—Section showing trap forms Fig. 41.—Types of the non-syphoning trap A shower bath : Fig. 42.—Section showing ‘he inetallation of the becieeenk system An enamelled kitchen sink House at Merion, Pa. Heapinc, CHaprer XIII.—Nearly concealed by cedars Detail of rustic well A rustic-well house Fig. 43.—Sectional diagram showing a well Windmill on farm of Thomas W. Lawson, Esq. The hacienda of Mrs. Hearst : : The outlay best fitted to sand stretches The Girard Foster House, at Lenox, Mass. Inner court of house at Bryn Mawr, Pa. Cottage at Grindstone Neck, Winter Harbor, Me. Elizabethan house of Allen H. Reed, Esq. Supply tank and lookout : ‘ Door to tank house (above) Water tank of Mrs. Hearst Fie. 44.—Section of hydraulic ram Old powder house A water tower at Roxbury, Nee Fig. 45.—Blind and combination drains . ‘ A tank at West Hampton Beach . : d 5 Tank and windmill at Southport, L. I. Hiding an iron standpipe A windmill that is not unsightly ; : : é Fig. 46.—Showing the flush tank. : : : : ; Windmill and tank combined : : : : : A PAGE S16 216 217 217 218 219 220 221 20 223 224 225 226 22.7 228 230 231 232. 233 235 235 237 237 237 237 238 239 240 240 241 241 243 244 245 246 247 248 249 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS—Continued HeapinG, CHapter XIV.—A modern Colonial stable Fig. 47.—Plan of stable Stable at Overbrook, Pa. Stable at Dedham, Mass. Stall room of stable at Newburgh, N. Y. Barn and poultry house Stable on the D. C. Blair estate Fig. 48.—A good stable or barn vent Fig. 49.—Section through a barn Two views of barn at “Fairacres”’ The Thomas W. Lawson dove-cote The most approved form of poultry house Fig. 50.—A poultry house Old dove-cote at “Shirley” Fig. 51.—Small pigeon house Pigeon house in stable A clean, rich, free treatment . Stable at Woodmere, L. I. An ideal barn and courtyard . Old Colonial gates at Salem, Mass Fig. 52.—Sketch for a combined boat and bath Hotise A dignified treatment of the entrance wall Boat house at Southport, L. I. Fig. 53.—Plan and section of a swimming Bool Gate lodge at “Pine Banks” Ice house at Kingston, N. Y. Old gates at Medford, Mass. : Fig. 54.—Sections of picket fence and stone wall An English lich-gate : Garden gate of Royal House Gate-lodge at Lawrence Park An interesting circular barn and stable The summer house of the Royal estate HEADING, CHAPTER XV.—A pergola The Blair garden . Plan of Blair garden. : Garden of Mrs. D. C. Blair . Japanese fountain XXxi PAGE 250 251 252 253 254 254 255 256 256 257 258 259 259 260 261 261 262 262 262 263 264 265 266 266 267 267 268 268 269 269 270 271 272 273 274 274 275 275 Xxli LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS — Continued Garden steps : Garden wall at Greenwich, oe Pergela and sun-dial Garden gate at Glen Ridge, N. I. Hermes “Maxwell Cone Roe ville: enn A vase at “ Maxwell Court” Wall of entrance court “Maxwell Court.” The sarden wate A side porch 5 Old Prince House at Blushines Ly: 1. A rustic summer house . 3 The garden at Mt. Vernon The Italian well-curb “Maxwell Court.” Pergola . Sun-dial in cedar garden A vista in the Stevens’ garden Seat in the Stevens’ garden An ivy-covered stone bridge A rough-stone bridge Stone steps in formal garden Garden of Mrs. Larz Anderson Plan of the Anderson garden . Fountain in garden at “Fairacres”’ A bit of the rock garden at “Yaddo” A modest gate Bit of garden at Newbureh: N. Ves Rock garden, “‘Yaddo”’ Heapinc, CHapTer XVI.—An interesting rendering A shingled house . : An eighteenth century Dutch: stone fetes A children’s playhouse “Wyanhoe,” James River, Virginia A modern type of American country house The Goddard House at Brookline, Mass Heapinc, CuarTter XVII.—House at Bronxville, N. Y. Fig. 55.—Section and plan of balcony Fig. 56.—Sketch showing construction of a bullchead PAGE 276 277 277 278 278 279 280 281 281 283 284 285 285 286 287 288 289 289 290 290 291 292 293 294 295 296 297 298 299 315 210 316 316 316 B72 318 319 319 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued XXill Fig. 57.—Section through wall and drain Fig. 58.—An outside closet Fig. 59.—Section of bed of drive An inexpensive flower trellis . Fig. 60.—Section of casing Fig. 61.—Showing the right-angle cranile Fig. 62.—A bay window : Fig. 63.—Showing the laying of sfanwles : Fig. 64.—Suggestion for a trap Fig. 65.—The queen-post truss End of a simple arbour Section of bridge : Mantel at Kingston, N.Y. . A typical Southern Colonial house Author’s thumb-mark and signature in decoration Pergola at “Indian Harbor,” Greenwich, Conn. architects PAGE 320 320 321 322 323 325 325 326 327 328 329 339 331 Calnien “Cane & Hastings, End linings THE COUNTRY HOUSE Maxwell Court,” Rockville, Conn. Charles A. Platt, Architect oo Entrance Gates to THE COUNTRY HOUSE CHAPTER 1 SELECTION OF THE SITE INCE the world was very young, and our prehistoric ancestry (if the Darwinian theory be accepted) roosted in trees, or swung therefrom by appendages long since eliminated and hence not found in the accepted Parisian fashion plates. ‘Then there were neither doors nor windows, and the needs of the bath were not imperative. Gentle breezes bles as aimlessly as now; heavy foliage offered shelter from the sun; hair grew downward to keep out the weather, and the lee side of a tree trunk was better than a house. Later came the cave man—he who invented the cellar. He had no tail, but just what he may have been is sot definitely decided. Recent research seems to suggest that he must have been a good climber, despite the lack of caudal appendage, although he probably struck for his hole when he could, and built him a fire as protection against outside invasion. Little as we may know, it is evident, however, that he carefully chose the site of his cave in reference to the demands of his simple life, and if his ready-made home did not fulfil these he rejected it altogether. Thus we find him on elevations, near streams, and within reach of flint and the metals which he has so cleverly wrought. 2 4 The Country House Our problem is the same. We are limited by our needs, and must, like birds and ani- mals, adapt natural conditions to them. With these the home may be temporary; with us it Is_ per- manent—that is, if we are fortunate in the exercise of our good judgment. Generally one can tell the natural inclination of every individual, from the A California avenue of palms, demanding the luw-pitched roof and overhanging eaves to suggest the droop of the trees flat shuffle of the cityite to the mo- mentous tread of the countryman, each of whose steps is a day’s work. The migrating cityite is easy to mark; he never really forgets the flat step; but he, like the parrot. catches the half sense of things. There is he of the country inclination, with his hat on the back of his head, a straw in his mouth, stepping high, like a hen, from past experience with mud, sand and stones. The other variety is like a dog that has swallowed a mustard plaster—no matter which way he is headed for the time being, he will eventually bring up at water, though from reasons of an entirely different nature. Both hands are shoved deep into his pockets until he is round shou:dered, and when he walks it is as if the lower part of his anatomy were in one piece. His nos- trils are extended as if always smelling for wind, and when he looks at his watch he pulls his hat over his face and shades his eyes with his hand. Be the destination of he who flees from the city what it may, the same general problem confronts him; the same general conditions are to be considered, and the same general requirements to be met. He still requires to eat, sleep and breathe fresh air, and the sunshine is just as requisite to his personal comfort, be he by shore or mountain. This first problem, that of the site, is most important. The average man will build a fairly good house on a bit of land entirely unworthy of it. We can- not all draw plums, but let us at least have a decent slice of the pudding. It has been the usual method among prospective builders to determine upon the style and plan of the house to be built, and then to choose a site most unsuited for the purpose. This method of procedure is, strictly speaking, an illustration of the hackneyed “putting the cart before the horse,’ and yet it is frequently done with success. ‘To have a general idea of what the plan may be is perhaps not overreaching the mark to any extent, and yet the “general idea” Selection of the Site 5 should not be so firmly fixed as to cause future com- plications, as it is very apt to do. As is often the case, one looks about for existing examples that please him; this is natural. If in the research he becomes com- pletely and in- separably wedded to some particular style, then this style must govern the choice of the land and be ever uppermost in the question of its selection. The better way, by far, is to determine on the site, procure it, and fit the house to the conditions it involves. This is the legitimate method The old Royal House, Medford, Mass. Showing a flat Colonial site with deciduous growth. of procedure, and will The lower view gives the anatomy of the general lay-out give better results in the end. We all of us work, or have at least some connection with a business centre. This, first of all, should be a check in the matter of selection. ; The average man is expected, except during his vacation, to be at a certain place each day for the transaction of business. His first care is that he shall not spend too much time on public conveyances in travelling back and forth. If he be located in a town or small city his problem is perhaps simpler than he of the large city; in either case, the nearness to public conveyances and a forethought for the future growth of the locality are all important. Although growth is natural, one does not care to be hemmed in with mushroom edifices before the first coat of paint has become hard. If it be a case of a summer home simply, the problem differs again. More land is naturally implied, and, as a general thing, the conditions of summer and early fall alone are to be considered. Here again the question of ease of 6 The Country House access arises, and if one isolates himself it should be with the understanding of what it involves. If the man of the house is to come up every week, a com- pulsory drive of from thirty to forty miles each trip has its drawbacks, and eventually becomes tiresome. Whether the case be that of the suburban or country home, the general condition of the public highways bears strongly on the question of ease of access. The one is to be considered for the entire year; the other offers the best there is in it. It is always better to have lived in the chosen locality through the proposed months of occupancy, before building, in order that one may understand the conditions thoroughly and guard against unpleasant surprises. One might as well be in the midst of wilds as to be located in a country where the source of supplies is poor. Of course one does not expect the country store to carry all the numerous little pet fancies of a capricious palate, but one does expect a certain amount of staple product, and occasionally a yeast cake that is not more than three days over the five-year limit. If one has chosen well, the finer needs of the table may be supplied from town. It is wise, however, to patronise the local man to some extent, if he is reasonable, in order that he may be encouraged to keep up his stock and that one may be sure at the same time that one will not go hungry. To rely entirely on outside supply is to tempt fate to the extent of an empty stomach and bad temper. uel, too, is an item of some importance, and though prices are often quite reasonable in the country, yet, if it comes from a distance, the cartage, which may prove heavy, must be reckoned with. Too much stress cannot be laid upon the question of privacy; it seems to be seldom. considered by the masses at large. The good old continental practice of making a closed-in estate, a little world of one’s own, is set at naught by the average builder. The absence of fences and tree screens throws what should be the owner’s exclusive domain open to public invasion, and his neighbour’s business becomes as important as his own. This is particularly true of the suburban “‘ot”—a poor little beast, bestraddled by a good, healthy house, whose tendency to reach out is nipped by circumstances which compel it to pull in both knees and elbows to escape its neighbours, like a fat alderman confined to space in a political parade. , Nearness to the highway is another menace to privacy, considering that the average American house faces the street. This is particularly obnoxious in a case where the lot is lower than the street and the casual passer-by can tell what sort of a rug you have on the floor. Naturally, if the house be planned after the English style, with the living room to the rear and facing the smali private garden, then there is no objection to the structure setting closer to the street than is ordinarily in good taste; kitchen windows are high, and that part of the house generally takes care of itself. The neighbourhood and neighbours—look to them well; both may change, even if of the best; this is your risk. As an extra precaution give yourself elbow room; it is convenient at times. There are often public nuisances which, in some places, are hard to get $994) BUIJ9MO) BY) 0} [10} B SB 2AJIS 0} YSNOUD BuOsIs 9q P]NoYs 3 *a]A1s Bq JDATIVA A “UBISIp ;B1U0]OD P2|!Bap A[SnosoBA puv ysnqgos B aq IqZ}wW sould ay} Jo you paov[d aq 0} asNoY a4] “sESNqoBssBW TI9ISIM JO SIITH 2atysysog 9M} JO TICY 8 The Country House rid of. If your neighbour’s pigpen is as good at fifty rods as it is at one—look out for it. If there is manufacturing within the radius of a mile, examine it care- fully and note what it does. If there be a waterway handy, watch out for drain- age; and the more especially if it passes through your proposed site. Your neighbour can, with either good or bad intentions, make things highly interesting for you. Marshes and swamps are often very obnoxious. Investigate—it may be worth while. As has been previously stated, it is best to live in the locality for a while and learn about it. The principal thing to avoid, in the way of soil, is clay. It is best to have nothing to do with it, but if the conditions are so very extraordinary otherwise, and you are willing to drain both your wallet and the land thoroughly, as well as excavate and grade with gravel to the limit, it can be done. Soft, swampy land is also to be avoided, and the conditions of a rocky soil or ledge must be fully taken into consideration before any decision is made. Of course one must risk the striking of a ledge or rock in the digging of the cellar; it cannot always be foreseen. The best soil is, of course, gravel. The water filters through it easily and gives the owner some chance in the game. Sand filters too, but it will wash badly unless protected. A house built on a rock partakes of the rigidity of its foundation. It is apt to vibrate slightly during a thunder storm, a fact which might annoy the timid individual to some extent at first. It is solid, however, and will not settle. The cellar under such conditions is a question. There is the ordinary summer house that may require no cellar. If the ledge slopes quickly, a cellar may be had on the lower side of it; but this should have a wooden floor, free from the ledge, to avoid such surface water as may flow over it. Blasting can be done, but this 1s too expensive for the ordinary house. A slight elevation is, of course, the best site for the house itself, be this natural or artificial. The slope of the land, if it be marked in character, is better toward the south or in the direction of the best outlook. Things do not often happen exactly as we may wish—then begins the problem, which differs from others, and hence the advisability of planning the house for the land. The direction of the outlook is better toward the sun, that the living room may receive healthy sun- light at some time during the day. It is advisable not to set a house too near the sea, unless it be at a con- siderable height above it. The storms of winter are often severe, and the place for the ocean is surely not in your living room, to say nothing of the damage to the outside of the house. From six to twenty inches of house wall is not much against a wall of water, with miles of wall on wall coming right along, with a soaring, snorting hurricane back of it, urging it on. Once upon a time a cheerful idiot built a little camp on a two-by-four island in the most placid of inland lakes. His island was about four feet above summer level at the highest point, and his front porch set out over the water on posts. That winter the elements distributed kindlings to all the camps on the lake, and the porch was no more. ‘The next winter did things to the camp itself, and the following summer the wreck was abandoned. Aaozeg *s Asasmy *d Aeat[eH “oO wooimqieg “u qaquieyg “ar 949409 aNOg “F epueia, “y Aoyesssuyay 3 yeso]D eulyD 3 Asueg ‘2 weydryp woos suruiq *9 woos pretiig *q woos Surary *e aus WOIJ PIeMEaS MITA “Cd (Meals auies) 9318 UO asNOH “g aus “Vv suBld YoI9¥sS YBNOs QI *aINIONIIS pajyo[dwWod aq) 0} 33S 91Bq 24) WO] WOIIN[OAS 94) BUIMOYS ‘a ‘AB WI0og 1B a8ByOo JouWNS VY JSALI Woy asnoy JO MIA *2) 7Y24y>= wPYUNEY ef SYD E ny . ' 10 The Country House These two prob- lems of water sup- ply and drainage are probably the most important of all considerations in the building of a house. With their nearness to perfec- tion comes perfect health, and if they do not exist what excuse 1s there for a home anyway? The water supply—a vital con- sideration—is either i through public ser- The lodge at ** Yaddo,”’ Saratoga. A situation which suggests quiet and repose vice or isa private affair. It will not take long to determine on the character and efficiency of the former. It should be pure and plentiful, and of sufficient pressure to guarantee its usefulness in time of fire. In this connection the effectiveness of the fire department should be considered, and rates of insurance often stand for much. There is one advantage about the public service—if it should become pol- luted or otherwise impaired, the public will rise as a body to demand puri- fication. If, however, its natural conditions are not good, it is little short of useless. With the private service it is different, inasmuch as it may become a single- handed combat against natural odds or the power of corporations or moneyed individuals. Such conditions as these are expensive and exasperating, and should be well guarded against at the start. When the public service does not exist, it is the question of the spring, or either the dug or driven well. The spring is a rarity (and by spring is meant that which is large enough to come to the surface in considerable volume— wells are oftentimes fed from small springs) and, of course, is to be treated as the dug well of greater or less size. ‘The driven well is more expensive, but perhaps the best, while the dug well is the most common. If it be possible, samples of the water should be analysed before the purchase is made. Care should be taken that the well is not in a position to receive the drainage from any out- side source—this is most important. Where one can drain into a public sewer he is relieved of considerable worry and calculation on that score, although it is just as well to know where the sewer empties, and to be sure that by any miscalculation it does not connect with the water supply in some way. In ‘locating drainage on the estate where the private supply exists, it is Selection of the Site II of great importance to see that the house and stable drain will not come too near or interfere with your drinking water, and that its final disposition shall be at a considerable distance from it and the house. It is the natural possibilities of the site that should appeal to the pro- spective builder and be taken advantage of as far as possible. Elevation is a good thing, but if it necessitates much of a climb it should be avoided. Trees, too, are excellent, but their close proximity to the house should not be considered, as they shut in the view, hinder the circulation of air, help to decay the shingle roof, and fill the gutters with litter that eventually decays those of wood and clogs the conductors. Neither should they shut off the sun too completely—a_ certain amount of it is necessary. On the other hand, they may serve as a wind shield to cut off the house from the north or other points of the compass from which cold winds blow. Unless a hardwood growth is quite thick it will become use- less for this purpose in winter, and even if close it becomes little more than a “strainer.” Often the house can be shielded from the wind by setting it in the lee of rising ground. It is not only in the winter that cold winds blow, but during the summer and fall one is likely to experience considerable discomfort from them. A thorough knowledge of the locality beforehand will tell one what to expect and guard against. The outlook is, of course, one of the things which one naturally does not forget to consider; but it is not necessary to cut out every tree which comes anywhere near it. Vistas can be cut, or, as in the case of the sweeping view, the trees can be thinned out and trimmed so as to make it count for more and become more interesting than the frankly open sweep. Consider your building from the point of view of material at hand. Wood is always safe, but in a rocky country the rough stone, with proper surroundings, is excellent. Gener- ally speaking, stone nharmonises best with soft wood growth, while brick seems to be best adapted to the deciduous tree. Wood can be han- dled to go with either. The cedar, being more formal, can be used in com- bination with any material. Plaster (or 6 estate ou the Hudson River. The long undulating lines of the land add much to the rough-cast) iS, ac- character and possibilities of the place cording to its treat- ment, possible anywhere. The above generalities are not laid down as infallible rules, but, broadly speaking, they apply. It is readily seen that the utilisation of the handy material has another advantage—that of cheapness. ‘This little item is not to be sneezed at, considering the present rates of labour and material. se The Country House It is well to have a fairly accurate outline of what you intend to do in the way of the placing of the buildings before you have definitely decided on the land. The house, stable, sheds, barns, poultry houses and yard, cow yard, kitchen garden, kitchen yard, well house and whatever else you may intend to embody should be roughly mapped, with due regard to the suggestions previously made. After the purchase has been made, a plan should be drawn as accurately as possible, either by an engineer or by the owner. This should give the height from the street grade; the trees and their condition, character and kind; soil and location of ledge (if any). To help this plan in its intelligibility it is well to make a series of photographs of the place from various established points on the plan, as well as views from the road. When this is done, owner, architect and landscape gardener have something to work from, although the site will probably be visited by the latter. In making the pictures of the proposed site of various buildings, it is well that some person of known height be included in the view, standing on the site in question. This gives the scale at a glance, and is of much value to fhe architect, who may not visit the land until after the sketches are made. If the question of price be an item with you, know this—that if you wear store clothes, a collar, and keep your shoes in passable condition, the average countryman will take you to be made of money and tack on the price accor- dingly. When a man hails from the city his fate is settled. No one with any sense of decency will object to paying a fair price for an article. On the other hand, one does not care to be taken in on the strength of an imaginary fortune. The better way is to get a trustworthy resident to make the bargain in his own name and for you not to be known in the transaction. Be sure, however, that this is done with the knowledge and ' under the direction 4 of a lawyer, | other- } wise your “trusty resident” may own the land instead of yourself, and offer to sell it to you after- ward at more profit than he is entitled to. It is always best to put a binder on the land as soon as you decide that you Looking across Newfound Lake, N. H. A good location, ample height and excellent view, want it, or think suggesting the Colonial farmhouse that you want it, pending the looking up of the title. If you do not do this someone else may get in ahead of you. The best way is to bond the property for the sum agreed upon, paying a small sum to hold it for a stipulated length of time. ‘This gives you the refusal of it for that time and for that price, and if you decide that it is not what you wish Selection of the Site 13 you lose only the binder. In this way several sites may be considered and the best selected. Be sure, however, that you have a lawyer’s advice in your transaction, unless you know absolutely what you are doing yourself. One argument in favour of the lawyer is that the laws of the various states often differ, and things which seem to be all right are not. For in- stance, if you buy a piece of land on the Maine coast, and in your deed your land is described as running in such and such directions, for such and such a distance to the shore, and hence by the shore, etc., you naturally suppose that you have a shore privilege. The fact is that you have no /egal right whatever. On this point the law holds. Your deed should read “to tidewaters of so-and-so,” and “by tidewaters so-and-so.” Hence, get a lawyer; he is worth his hire. In the matter of the title your lawyer again comes to the front; he is familiar with such work. If you know as much about it as he does, look it up yourself, but under no circumstances slight it—a clear title is important. If you do not make sure that the man who sells you the land has an undisputed right to it, someone may come along at any time and convince a court that his right is better than yours and—you lose. It isn’t worth the risk. One rests easier with both the copy of a clear title and the deed, properly recorded, stowed away in one’s inside pocket. Not infrequently the old site offers as tempting a haven or one even more so than the new site. Its possibilities are well developed and the problem of rejuvenating becomes unique. In some instances the old trees are most tempt- ing, although if these are not perfectly sound it 1s better not to consider them for a moment. Younger trees with a life before them are preferable to old ones whose life is near spent. The various styles of houses are adapted to certain sites. Of course there are exceptions to the following, as there are to every rule. The careful designer often carries to a successful completion that scheme which at first seems impractical. The Orchard House, Concord, Mass. This suggests the possibilities of the old site 14 The Country House It must be confessed, however, that these instances are, in comparison with the number of failures, rather a small percentage of such attempts. Generally speaking, the formal Colonial and English styles harmonise best with the compara- tively level site and the drooping flufh- ness of deciduous trees (see “Royal House” and “ Estate on the Hudson”’). Rough, rugged sites like the view in “Roxbury” de- mand an irregular design of consider- able force and sud douad ciate a strength—the rough A site in Roxbury, Mass. This demands a ro. gh stone design of considerable force and strength Stone wall would do very ‘well. Rough stone is out of place, however, if used in a locality foreign to it, or where there are no rocks on the surface to carry out their character. The long sweep, is in a “California Vineyard” calls for long, sweeping lines in the house. The “Berkshire Hills,’’ as seen in the distance, might suggest several things; a house back of the pines might be a robust and vigorous detailed “Colonial.” The “Maine Coast” might be shingle, log, or rough stone and plain plaster. The “Newfound Lake” and the “Penobscot River” suggest strongly the rambling irregularity of the Colonial farmhouse. The “Avenue of Palms” calls loudly for a low-pitched roof with over-hanging eaves which shall suggest the droop of the trees. The various styles of tropical houses might give new and excellent ideas—it is an interesting problem. It has been alzeady suggested that the “Estate on the Hudson” could be embellished with a formal Colonial design. It will be noted, however, that the existing building 1 z Zein well set in its place and seems a part of the grounds. This is in a measure due to the fact of its reg- ularity and lack of aggressiveness. In design its central motive 1s derived from the French farmhouse, while the wings are embel- A California vineyard. Level stretches of country call for the low structure, with long, sweeping lines lished with dormers Selection of the Site 15 having the low pitch of the English half-timber period. In speaking of the English half timber, it is well to add that a design in this style would not look out of place on this site. One very good method in determining the design that suits the site is to collect photographs of foreign examples, which can be gotten in the larger cities; domestic examples should first be well studied to understand their adaptability. Of course, it 1s not reasonable to suppose that these can be taken literally; conditions of living are different. They will, however, offer invaluable sugges- tions for adaptation. Besides photographs, there are some high-class architectural publications which reproduce these, and which can be seen at many of the libraries. Not only should the acknowledged styles of the Continent be considered, but also the less known art of nations in other parts of the world. It is quite no- ticeable that parts of rough and pine-clad Maine bear a strik- ing resemblance to some parts of Japan. It would be impos- sible to imagine the bamboo in this con- nection, and yet a modification of the simple Japanese house is not so foolish as it seems at first. Some of the pine growth On the Penobscot River, Me. A chance for long, low, rambling Colonial lines in this state reminds one most forcibly of the charming specimens in Japan; and as to stone—Maine can surely hold her own. Now, for the sake of direct argument, let us take a practical example (see cut). This site is on the Hudson River. It does not matter where. If you find it (and it is safe to say you will not), lay hands on it at once—it is a gem. Well above the river runs a highway, broad and ample. Northeasterly, about three-quarters of a mile, runs another highway, equally ample and generally parallel to the first. Connecting these two is an old road more or less irregular in its direction, and, being semi-public, is cut off by gates at either end (see “G”). A short distance up on the old road from the river road the path divides, the right-hand branch swinging off to reach a clear, cool spring, which comes from the rocks (see “A”). ‘This road swings round to intercept the main branch again at a point at which it makes a right-angle turn to the northwest. The road by the spring is about twenty-five feet above the land below, a rough mouse designed by Andrews, Jaques & Rantoul, architects (a8ed aitsoddo 24) Uo papuaixa SI sainqold JOSS SIT) *d}IS 94} JO BIIB 94} SestudwOd ued jo volod Jays] BY “SUe]d 3Yy1 UO paledi pul ais Udye) 9Je SMITA YOIYM WOM SJUTOd BY] "1909 DATJ ABAD POIwIPU! JIB SII] INOJUOD BY] «*a[dwBxa yRoNoBid Y “JOATY UOSpNY ay) uo als W 18 The Country House stone wall retaining it. As the dip of the land below the road is considerable, it gives a view from above, through and over the trees to the south (see “D’’). The land below the road slopes to the river, where a screen of trees effectually hide the railroad (see “F”’). The soil is good. A few ledges crop out at intervals and the stone walls would furnish considerable building material. The growth is largely cedar, oak and maple, with a sprinkling of locust and a few elms. This growth is very well distributed, and is even thicker than is shown on the plan, as the pictures suggest. The highest point on the land is near the northern line and, with the trees, offers an excellent wind screen. So much for the present conditions. Now for the possibilities of the place. (On the plan the site is indicated as lighter than the adjoining property, and the existing roadways lighter still.) The fact that the old crossroad is semi-public is the only stumbling block, and at first this seems a serious objection. Remaining in its present location it makes the lot impossible, but there is nothing to prevent the extending of this road in line with the easterly portion, and thence by the easterly boundary to the highway below. This does two things—makes the westerly portion of the old road a part of the estate and gives a back way and service entrance through the new extension. From outside encroachment we seem to be secure, as the highest land is on the lot and there is no chance to throw drainage across the property. Further, the lot is a mile away from one station and two miles from the other. The river road is not the main highway and consequently has reasonable chances of escaping the trolley. These facts offer a reasonable excuse for the non- interference of the mushroom class of house. Having saved a portion of the old road, the next question is, what is to be done with it? It is important that this should be util- ised, as its natural conditions are ex- cellent. Let us see —the spring — yes, the spring is a fea- ture and must come into the game some- how. A carriage driving in must make a turn in order to get out. Then why not make a loop to connect the two diverging forks of the road and solve the problem thus? In this way the overflow from the spring can be made a watering place for the horses and its present intention retained. The A hill site in Dutchess County, N. Y. The kno.i, shestered by the oak growth to the north, is a good location “SUIS BT} IYI JO MITA Paiu!] ay) UBY) JaIddeyg puB J9}19q SI IBY} SSOUSIG B YOOTINO 9Y) SAAIS ‘ALME S3]IW S} YIGA ‘ABq dy) SSOJdB AJIUNOD 3Y) JO daaMS YJ ‘399UBI3IP I[PP!IW 9g) At SPUBIS! [NJIYZIap aq) puw Sues punossasoj ay) SapIsag ‘*paieulsasaao 9q A[PABY UBS IJOG SIY} JO aJIS B JO ONjeA ay] ‘edeospusR] dy) Jo Saljnvaq [BINJeU dy) JdUBYUA O} ATJOadSJad JENSNUN JI39q) SASI[IN JUIN) SUBS JY) Jv PUB WIY) WO] UOWB[OS! S}] SasBa.1OU! ‘sINOqYSZIIU S}I JO SULYOO[JOAO S}I IBY} UIIS ATIPBII SI 3] PUB OS SIy) JO JUaWaJINbas AJOAI SJaMSUB SAGE OY] ‘|B JO UOIBDO] aWaJdNs dy) SI 31 ‘sadBIS BUINSByUN puE ASBa Aq 9q BSIBI JY} JI ‘SPJOM J9Y4IO UI ‘JO *QUII[D BO YONW OO} INOYIUAM U9}I0Z 9q URI IT J] ‘AIS Paleaaya ay) je AU]IGBIISAP 9y} Jo a] dwexa JUI[[IIXa UB SI SIV] “ISBOd AUIVW IY} JO AJQU|IS 9Y) JO DNSIJaIIVIEYD AJIA SI SIY] ‘ISNOU JOGIr<] 1g BJO INOYOO] ay) WoIy Av SUBUTYDUaT JO MalA, 20 The Country House loop is interesting enough in character to be worth perfecting, and is a pleasing way of solving the problem of the drive. As the stables should, of course, be handy to the drive, it has been indicated to the eastward of » the loop and near the service entrance and the extension of the old road. If it is deemed too con- spicuous in its pres- ent position, it can be put behind the trees farther to the south. In fact this suggestion seems a good one, inasmuch as it will solve one problem very nicely. The manure pit can be hollowed out of : an =y the face of the nat- Old birch growth on the Maine coast. An excellent chance for the log or rough-plaster house ural terrace, and be madewith an arched stone or brick roof, with the chutes leading to it from above. As the wall faces the south a projecting outside pen can be added, and thus the pigs will be comfortably housed and one more bothersome question disposed of. Naturally the first consideration would be the location of the house. In this instance, however, the disposal of the road, which we have already con- sidered, was the important question. Then, too, one could see at a glance where the location of the house should be; and even if there were any hesitancy. the sunset across the river, the view through the trees and a glance at the wind- sheltering hill would instantly dispel it. The ordinary thing to do would be to put the house on the upper side of the drive and let it go at that. Fortunately this is not an ordinary problem. The sunset and the river at once suggest a long frontage in that direction. Although we have decided on the upper side of the road, we still go back to the spring. Here is an idea—why not carry a wing of the house across the road, arching over it? In this case the billiard room and den can be placed on the spring side, where they become semi-detached from the main house by means of the arch, which is an advantage. Of course there will have to be a corridor from the main part of the house to the den, but this can, if necessary in rising to clear the arch, remain at that level, allowing the like raising of the billiard room and den floors, which will give a room below each of them. Thus there can be a storeroom under the billiard room, and the room under the den can be used for the pump, as the water supply naturally comes in at this point. The den should be carried up into a tower. Selection of the Site 21 The main outlay is simply the dining room and parlour, with a wide hall between and stairs at the northeasterly end. The library is south of the parlour and next the arch. The kitchen and service are in an L to the north and at an angle to the dining room, so as not to interfere with the view. The service driveway comes in at the east of the kitchen, by the way of the stable. A deep veranda seems to be requisite across the front of the house, which might continue narrowly over the drive to the den. A simple formal garden can be placed to the southwest, with a summer house at its extremity, and on a line with the central walks and the hall. On the crest of the hill to the north of the lot is a chance to erect a windmill for further water supply and for general use. This would be well in case of fire. Below the windmill, under the hill, where it would be sheltered from wind, ex- posed to the sun and handy te ihe water, the kitchen garden could be placed. The gardener’s or caretaker’s lodge has been located on the upper side of the road at the old gate, as this location seems a good one. It might, perhaps, be shifted to the other side of the road, where it will be under the bank and lower. In this case the living room and sleeping rooms could be on a level with the drive and the kitchen and dining room below. The drainage is easily taken care of. It might be carried to the lower ground below the natural terrace. It could, if thought desirable, be carried across the road into the field by the river, taking in the lodge on the way, and this would probably be the better method. Either would require about the same amount of pipe, considering one cesspool in both cases. The open field across the road will allow of tennis courts and a large garden if desired. There would, of course, have to be some thinning out of the growth in order that the best of it be given a better chance. With this, vistas could be opened up to such bits of view as were deemed worthy. On the whole, the plot is in remarkable condition for occupancy as it is, barring, of course, the mght of way through it. The house shown is merely to give an idea of a good style to follow. This excellent example is based on the French farmhouse, and it suggests some- thing perfectly in harmony with the stone and the wood growth. The sky line of the “problem” house would have to be more vigorous, however, but this is a matter of adaptation. There is another style that could be used on this site with equal success— that of the Italian—plaster walls or stone and plaster, and tile roofs. By this is not meant the larger and formal villas, but the simpler and more irregular creations of the hill towns and country. The cedar, which suggests forcibly the Italian landscape, we have in abundance, and the scheme is thoroughly practical. Under this treatment the spring becomes the Italian fount or well. This general solution of the problem is, of course, not the only one, but it is somewhere near to a good solution and suggests the way in which such a problem should be considered. The rough plan came as a natural result of the existing conditions. The average builder would not, perhaps, get as far as to see the house outlay at once—it is not his fault if he does not. A $12,000 house of field stone partially covered with stucco; a type common in English towns CHAPTER II PLANNING THE House T IS a common saying that a man must plan and build three houses before he will get what he wants. Judging from the way in which he ordinarily goes about the job, there seems some reason for this statement. The planning of a house requires considerable thought and calculation. It is a most serious matter and should be taken seriously. The owner naturally has ideas of his own, and generally pitted against these are many time-tried conditions and the question of good design, as exemplified by the architect. We have said “pitted” for the lamentable reason that these things are generally antagonistic. It has been the common thing to consider the architect as one who wittingly lays himself out to spend about twice as much as the stipulated cost of the structure, and the owner as a confirmed crank who will antagonise any idea advanced by the architect and stick like glue to a few petty and insignificant notions. Both are of course false, and yet there is a reason for these things, and when they are thoroughly sifted the owner will be found all unconsciously responsible for the larger part of them. If you have ever gone over the capitol building at Hartford, Connecticut, you will undoubtedly have heard the guide remark in conclusion: “And the most wonderful thing about it is that it was built within the appropriation,” just as if this fact were a novelty—which it is. 22 Planning the House 2% It has always been a failing of the general public to expect about twice or three times the value of every dollar it spends. In the case of the building of a house, the prospective builder wants this and that and something else that he has seen, until the grand total has run up, without the slightest exertion, from the five-thousand-dollar limit to ten or fifteen thousand. It is so natural to want things, and so fatally easy. To meet the wants of his client and in the hope of pleasing him, the architect naturally blunders into the same snare. Even at the risk of over-run- ning a little, he attempts what he knows to be impossibilities. Often, too, he wittingly runs over in the knowledge that clients frequently have named a certain limit, with the predetermination of spending more if necessary. There are, of course, unscrupulous architects who intend to deceive and involve the client, but these, happily, are few. Unfortunately, though few in number, they may have done much to further the false notion of the profession at large. There is another condition which does muck to roughen the smooth relations between client and architect, and that is the remarkable self-assurance of the former. Does the average man_at- tempt to plan a loco- motive, a sailing vessel or the detail survey of arailroad? He goes to the ex- pert, of courses With the house it is different. It is so simple—like “rol- ling off a log.” The architect is only a copyist, anyway—he doesn’t originate anything. Just here he makes a grave mistake. Yes, the average man can ( plan a house, and i HAITCHEN FIRST FLOOR PLAM | , 3 Seale Oenceneo PIAZZA TANING HALL LIVING ROOM it may stand as long and as well as an- other; he can plana i] GUESTS LAUNDRY locomotive, too, but | ob will it ever get a: beyond the model room ? The house Chapman & Frazer, architects eee! e House at Osterville, Mass. An intcresting solution of the summer problem. 24 is an inoffensive and mobile animal. The Country House If it be tremendously ugly it won’t explode, and if your front door opens into the kitchen pantry it isn’t a locomotive that will not run. fIRST FLOOR DINING ROOM FARLOR | BUILERS tl 2avrer —_—_—_—_—_—— ower | BUSINESS ROOM SECOND FLOOR ee CHAMBER . CHAMBER SERVANTS SERVANTS A simple and Andrews, Jaques & Rantoul, architects Brick and stucco house at Manchester, Mass. dignified rendering. It is not a ship that will ‘ If your roof should look like a number- ten hat on a ten- days-old puppy, or an impossible rail- road grade; if you do have to crawl on your hands and knees under a roof valley to get into the best chamber— still no catastrophe will occur, except perhaps a slow and sure arrival at the insane asylum. A man was once asked the question as to who designed his house. He replied: “My wife; Mr. So- and-So drew the plans.” As the edifice was a little masterpiece throughout, and the wife of a very ordinary sort, it is readily seen at how much some people rate the architect’s labours. There are some people of taste who are better fitted to be architects than many of the profession, but they lack, almost always, the intimate knowledge of the subject which tends to complete success. We frequently see and hear of houses “built without an architect.’’ We can- not dispute the possibility; it is the result that we question. Now if the client would only be willing to admit that the architect is master of his profession, and the architect in turn be thoroughly honest with the client and with himself, then things might run a little smoother and pleasanter than they often do, and the general results would gain very con- siderably. The sensible way to go about the ‘turn turtle.” Planning the House 25 matter would seem to be by progressive stages. If you have an idea of what you wish, make rough sketches of it and think it over. New ideas come—put them on paper. If you can blunder through a drawing in any sort of shape, get a drawing board, T-square and triangle and lay the first plan out to scale. “Then you will discover that the stairs will not go up within the space that you thought and that your pantry isn’t large enough—just such things as you should discover, too. Calculate for furni- ture, etc., and when you have gotten what you think is right, make a trac- ing of it and take it to your architect. At this stage he should be made familiar with the pro- posed site, so as not to work entirely in the dark. He may then, too, be able to suggest things which you have over- looked or have not thought of. Your architect should be chosen with care, and friendship should have nothing to do with the choice; such a combination of relations is often disas- trous. You have probably seen some particular thing which you fancy; the man who did it is the man you want; don’t get someone else to copy his design. If you have no very clear idea as to what you wish, go to the professional man at once. In any case get rough sketches at first, so as not to make too expensive a job of it; if the finished plans have to be altered too much, the architect is apt to lose his interest and to neglect or slight yours. While your outlay is being put in shape, try other schemes or keep on with the original sketch, trying to better it. This last can be done by making the PrANI OE. econo S Tony An excellent adaptation of English and French half-timber work. Cost about $17,000. Wm. L. Price, architect 26 The Country House new sketch on tracing paper over the first. Keep all your efforts, as they are valuable for reference. Pick out the best features of your many attempts and try if they will combine; they probably won’t, but try. Do not prolong your fun so - as to make the architect too much work in changing and rechanging. When your architect has de- livered his sketch, go over it and sleep on it. If you think it is not as good as yours, tell him so in a pleasant way and he may tell you something you do not know, or vice versa. Try the tracing paper on that, but be sure that you understand thoioughly what the drawing means CSE ee and learn how to Log and stone house at Bar Harbor, Me. Designed and built by a local carpenter, and very suggestive despite its faults read it before you condemn it. The first floor is the most important; the second floor generally adjusts itself, and you can see in a general way how it will work out. After your first floor is settled, draw the second and attic and cellar, or let your architect have the first try at it. It is important that you should take as much time as possible to think the thing out, but when it is satisfactorily settled go ahead. Mistakes and omissions are expensive, if one tries to rectify them during the process of construction. and it is very seldom that they can be satisfactorily rectified. If it be possibl., the three-quarter-scale drawings (if any) should be finished up to the figures at the time the plans are to be estimated upon. In this way the client knows better what he is to get, the contractor has a fairer show, and omissions and mistakes are less likely to occur. It is next to impossible to lay down many hard-and-fast rules to govern the planning of a house. Personal habits and ideas are all-important factors; and what might be inadequate for one man might be perfectly satisfactory for another. A few general hints will suffice to set the reader to thinking, and in setting these forward for his consideration we are doing all that can be done. First, we should consider the convenience of the plan and its reference to every-day uses and the ease with which it can be kept up and cared for. Do yoNGose ‘osAT GOST M ses aes yarays §,1991/4Y9s8 92 0} IMO PIyxso.d sBY UIsep 9G3 A]9S0f9 MO AION “WolMsodu0d pue Soul] porpnis [jam Jo ajdwmexe uy “uuo > Jodyinos ‘*bsq ‘pues *s "q jo aUepisey tNWTdt HOLES 28 The Country House not “bite off more than you can chew” is an old saying fit to be remembered. Consider as much as possible the working organs of the house, so that all who have Stucco house in the English inference, at Clifton, Mass. Chapman & Frazer, architects TERRACE BED ROOM BALCONY \ BEDROOM anything to do with it, either owners, guests, servants or tradespeople, shall find what they want without too many steps or too much trouble. Nor should any of these conflict in any way in work- ing of the general machinery. Con- sider the diverse points between which the most trav- -elling is done, and bring them as near together as possible without conflicting with something else. It is not desirable that your servant should be obliged to climb over the dining-room table in order to answer the front- door bell. Make your plan simple and the rooms in_ natural relation to one an- other, and_ don’t have to go through a room of a some- what retired char- acter to find one of a more public na- ture; as, for instance, through the library into the living room. When one is obliged to encroach on any one function to per- form another it is bad planning. Planning the House 29 Once upon a time a man bought an old Dutch Colonial farmhouse on a beautiful spot in the state of New York. Its exterior was charmingly simple and dignified. Not so the interior. The front door opened into the sitting room, and the = servant was obliged to go through this room and the dining room to answer the bell. The front stairway led from the sitting room through a slit in the wall into a chamber, and _ they were as steep as a barn ladder. One night the head of the house got up to get the baby a little subjugator and nee “An excellent example of English design, at Overbrook, Pa, cae about $12,000 lected to light a Wm. and Walter Price, architects lamp. First he tried j to get into the servant’s room, which aroused that terrified worthy to screams; then he tried the guest’s room with like result. Finally he escaped through the son’s room, only to fall part way downstairs in an effort to cross the landing. By this time the whole house was up and look- ing for the burglar. Steps from one room to another and all places where one is likely to get a fall should be avoided. The making of one part of the house on a different level from the rest is picturesque enough, but is it worth the while? A confusion of doors is bad. For instance, not long ago an old lady who had occasion to arise in the night mistook the backstair door for that desired and, there being no landing at the top,she stepped off and fell to her death. Such backstairs should have a landing with a rope or gate across it at night, if by any chance they are allowed to exist at all. Every house should have a permanent front and back vestibule or enclosed porch. This is important in order to keep out the cold, and further because there are often callers at both front and back doors whom one does not wish to admit further into the house. Then again the vestibule is an 30 The Country House admirable place for storm clothing and umbrellas. The portable vestibule is ugly and generally unhandy. It is well that there should be a direct and independent avenue of communica- tion between the kitchen and the front door. The reasons for this are obvious. The relation of the kitchen to the rest of the house is one of importance, the great difficulty being that the odour of the cooking generally permeates the whole establishment. ‘The ordinary remedy is to arrange two sets of doors between it and the rest of the house, which is some help at least. A most excellent scheme is suggested in the plan of the “Osterville” house by Messrs. Chapman & Frazer. In this the kitchen is separated from the rest of the house by a porch, the opposite sides of which are open. ‘This allows of a current of air, which is a most effective remedy for the pursuing odours of cabbage and the like. ‘This, of course, is for a summer house, but it seems as if a modification of this for cold weather might be effected. A radiator with a partial screening-in might effect this. It is often very convenient to have sleeping rooms on the first story, at least for the family use. It saves much running up and down stairs in cases where one is not wholly dependent upon servants. Every sleeping room should have a comfortably large closet; its con- venience cannot be overestimated. Bathrooms are usually located on the second floor, so as to be handy to the sleeping or dressing rooms. There should be a toilet on the first floor for family use and one in the basement for the servants. There should be a trunk room, and this should be located on the sec- ond story, if pos- sible, where it is most convenient to the packing and un- packing. If not on the second story, it might be located on the floor below and be used for both trunks and bicycles. Sometimes, how- ever, it is more con- venient to place it in the attic. Fireplaces are Plan of the practical example on the Maine coast. The shore is shown closer to the house than it should be, simply to give the relation of lines. The sketch shows what might be done EB with the exterior great ventilators, as Planning the House 31 well as excellent to remove the chill or damp of the early spring or fall and frequently of a summer day. From the point of view of the purist, every room in the house should be finished in the same style. To be more liberal and to help out the feeling and intention of the several rooms, there seems to be no ob- jection to using several different periods of the style of the country, viz., Louis XIV., Louis XV. and Empire. This should not be done, however, unless abso- lutely necessary to carry out the purpose ot the rooms. Such combinations as Colonial and Gothic are out of the question, al- though Colonial and Italian would do very well. In a Colonial house, for example, such an introduction as the Turkish is not to be thought of, unless it be applied to such a room as the den or others, out of the main group, and in a measure set off from the vital considerations of the plan. The importance of the veranda in the planning of the country house must not be lost sight of. It should be at least seven feet wide, and wider if possible. If covered, it should not be allowed to darken the ad- jacent room; or, in other words, the room should have other sources of light in case the veranda side be insufficient. It 1S far Plan and views of the site on the Maine coast. The easier to shut out light than to let it in. In upper view is of the site from the southeast, the middle B is the view from site to the south, the bottom is a a country where insects become an important general view of the site from the southeast consideration (and they have an insinuating way of forcing their attentions on one), a portion of the veranda should be screened in with access only through the house. In this way it becomes a part of the house, without the objection of going through an unscreened passage to get to it. If it can be located so as to be convenient for outdoor meals it is an advantage. In some parts of California it is said to be necessary at times to go out of doors in order to keep warm. Under such conditions the sun parlour becomes a necessity. As more can be learned in the actual going over of some particular problem, 32 The Country House let us consider the accompanying site on the Maine coast as a practical example. This has the advantage of being just o—— | | ! such a problem as one would be called upon to consider. It is still an unsolved problem, and_ the reader starts with practically the same advantage as the writer. It is not the unsatisfactory ques- tion of how has it been done, but how is it to be done? There may be those who will fall in love with this site and wish to know where it is situated. Forbear, gentle thirster for knowl- Stucco house at Glen Ridge, N. J. Morning Rem A well H. Van Buren Magonigle, architect edge, and know that this secret is jealous- Dining Poom Tea Room Setona Fioor Bath| Chamber Bath a | studied example on English lines Chamber { Chamber mostly spruce, pine and old-growth birch. my Chamber Chamber ly guarded. The site is on the shores of a bay, contains about forty acres, and is about one-half mile from the main highway. As shown on the plan, it is irregular in shape and divided into three distinct divisions—a second-growth wood to the north, a cleared farm, and a triangular sheep pasture. The second-growth, which lies on either side of the private road, is mostly larch and white birch, with a sprinkling of spruce. The farm proper is cleared and has upon it a cottage house, a barn, a shop and another small building, all in fairly good condition. ‘The portion of this part toward the bay is the mowing field. The pasture 1s freely strewn with rocks (granite) and has a fringe of trees along the shore, The point is fairly high on the bay side, sloping back gradually to the road. The highest point on the site is about midway of the rail fence between the mowing field and the pasture. To the north of the farm building a small inlet runs across the private roadway. This suggests much in the line of future lay-out. The soil is gravelly and of considerable depth, the whole front structure Planning the House 33 being on a ledge foundation. This ledge, extending to the east, becomes destitute of soil, and serves as a breakwater to the cove. Off the shore to the south several lobster pots are set, showing the ome acme possibilities in that direction; on the cove side are gener- ous clam beds. From the high ground one can see to the west the sun- set across the water, to the south the sweep of the bay with the islands, to the east an along- shore view, and to the north the inland country with its hills and mountains. I t h as been Another view of the Glen Ridge house, showing how the thatch effect has been suggested necessary to give a in shingles general idea of the plot, so that the reader can gain a fuller idea of the conditions than the pictures alone suggest. Now let us consider the problem of the planning of the house, the utilisation of the farm buildings and other obvious problems. In looking over the ground there seems to be but one place for the house, and that is to the easterly end of the pasture, just clear of the fringe of trees. This is shown in the two land pictures and the plan. Of course there are other good places, but this seems to be the best suited to the natural conditions, and furthermore is far enough from the shore to warrant the structure remaining a house rather than a lobster trap. It requires no disturbing of the growth to get the northerly, easterly and southerly views. ‘The westerly outlook is somewhat shut in by trees on the upper side of the fringe; those below can be seen over, in a similar manner to those shown in the picture looking across the bay. It has the advantage, too, of not being too closely shut in with trees, as is the case with several other delightful spots in the midst of the growth itself. Water can be gotten to the north of this spot, and the open space seems an excellent location for a windmill and a tank, both from its position and 1 height above the house site. We assume the water possibility from the fact that the farm has a good well near the top of the same ridge. As the pasture is at the present time tenanted by sheep, which keep the herbage cropped to a velvety shortness, it suggests that this feature might well be retained, sheep and all. It is an inexpensive way of keeping the grass cut, as well as a most interesting feature of the place. If it 34 The Country House be found that they encroach too much on the immediate dooryard, they can easily be fenced out of that portion of it. However, they are not goats, and in any event will not get on the roof and devour the shingles. The stable can ~4 be located on the “| slope of the hill | near the pasture fence and just over its brow to the north, so that its drainage shall be in the direction of the garden. The existence of the farm build- ings is fortunate, from the fact that they can be rented to some responsible party or serve as the gardener’s or caretaker’s quarters. In any case a care- taker and fresh vegetables are as- sured. These build- ings are, as pre- : j ; viously stated, in most interesting stone house at . as Wallingford, Pa. Cost about $7,000. fair condition, and Wm. L. Price, architect could be put in first-class condition with the outlay of little money. There is another consideration here which is most decidedly in our favour—the cottage could be used by the owner until his house is completed. He can spend his vacation here in i i looking over the outlay and gathering data for his Room , mj 9 3 5 i r plans, which can be put in shape during the winter. Pk He can then be upon the scene of construction the F i] following season—under the feet of the workmen— where he is sure to make himself generally disliked and have nice things said of him. And now to the plan itself. After consider- able scribbling on rough sketches, we have evolved the accompanying scale drawing as something to illustrate the possibilities. Its rooms have been Den Parlour \ Porch Planning the House 35 made of fairly large size, as it seems best that they should be. There has been no price restriction, but we must not be too extravagant. The scheme sug- gested would cost from $20,000 to $30,000 in the rough field stone of that locality. It might even be built for less. It depends largely on the inside finish. The most important views being those to the west and south, the same should be considered in the laying out of the plan. The din- ing room has good views toward the bay and across the garden and the water toward the west and the sunset. There is also a window to the east which will allow the morning sunlight to enter the room. The living room has an extensive view of The old Royal House, the bay, with the Meer tan shri garden in the fore-__ planning ground, and through the open arch of the alcove a view of the sunset through and over the trees. This room has also two windows to the north, commanding a view of the approach to the house. It will be noticed that the long axis of the house is not due east and west; it seems wise that this should be rather in line with the point of sunset in midsummer. It makes no real differ- ence, of course, and is a matter of individual taste entirely, its only ad- vantage being in the long view thus CHAMBER CHAMBER ohiained. As. it is, a person stand- ing on the reception-room hearth at this time of the year would get a clear, uninterrupted vista of over fifty feet through the three rooms, and GUESTS CHAMBER CHAMBER this vista would continue on through the trees. All the rooms are well lighted, with the hght concentrated where SECOND FLOOR LIVING ROOM DINING ROOM PIAZZA PARLOR AITCHEN soutit — 36 The Country House feasible, and have also considerable wall space, which is of course an essential. The fireplaces of the dining room, reception room and alcove are made wide enough to take a four-foot log; that of the hall has a three-foot opening. In considering the jeneral arrangement of the house and the relation of one room to another, we naturally begin with the entrance. The north vestibule is shown in a projection; it might wall: and perhaps better, be within the line of the main house; it is a matter of taste. It is, however, provided with a carriage stoop and horse block and should be surmounted by a hood. To the rear of the vestibule is a combination of passage and closet under the front stairs which allows of easy r — a )~©60 access to the toilet | | e as well as hanging room for clothing at the back of the chimney. You can enter at once into the reception room, or by the passage, hall, and west vesti- bule gain access to the garden. It is through this en- trance that guests would naturally enter, and, as will be seen by the plan, it is easy of access from the kitchen and yet well enough shut off by doors to make ie I it difficult even for sates the odour of cab- bage to escape by Tenwace | —— that route. The west vesti- bule, which opens upon the garden, is in reality the family entrance, for it is more than likely that much of this traffic will be through the garden. There are large windows in its A stucco house at Cohasset, Mass., designed on Italian lines. John Lavelle, architect two walls to allow i FiasT FLoor, ©) Cute Crore? Senvane | Saavaus WOKEN, Pantey Ele, under Servanr Dew Ben Room SECOND Fioor, Planning the House 37 of the lighting of the hall, and a box seat to hold footwear. It would be better if this seat were located under: the inside window and a door cut through the south wall so as to give access to the screened piazza, thus avoiding the passage through the dining room for ordinary use. ‘The closet off the vestibule offers hanging room for over-garments, asv well as a_ passage from the living room to the hall. This isolates the reception room and makes it unnecessary to pass H through it in going ngs from one part of the : house to another. The piazza area is not. extraordi- on narily large, because Entrance side of Cohasset house in its consideration the garden is made to count as an open piazza, the roofed-in structure being con- sidered more from the point of an open-air dining room. If more be desired, however, it can readily be carried around the south side of the dining room. Although we have considered screens in this connection, it is not really necessary, as there are very few mosquitos in this locality. It is good planning, however, to provide against them, for occasionally a damp, warm season will liven up the pests considerably. The dining room has access to the piazza through a French window, making it possible to set a table out of doors. Its connection with the kitchen is through the china closet, which arrangement, giving two doors in the interval, should in a measure keep the kitchen door from the rest of the house. The buffet is built in between the dining room and the china closet, with a slide between. The pantry is placed on the southeast corner, and provided with two windows so that it may get what air there is stirring. The kitchen is large and its outside walls are practically all glass. The sink is set in the centre of a 13-foot shelf, giving ample room on either side. There is also room for a table near the cellarway and a swinging shelf next the dining room. The kitchen is also handy to the back door, the back and cellar stairs and the two front doors, and has a clothes closet of its own in the back hall. On hot and close days the opening of the china closet door and window, the north kitchen window and the hall and back doors will give a relieving cross-current of air. The back stairs, hav- ing a door at the foot, will prevent the kitchen odours from besieging the second story. The servants’ hall, being across the hallway, is within reach of the kitchen and has a good easterly outlook. a PAN Da 4 iI S BOOS 38 The Country House The bath and toilet are separate, an evident matter of convenience. These are calculated for the family use. DINING ROOM SMOHING ROOM PARLOR FUTCHEN FIRST FLOOR SERVANT } SERVANT | BEDROOM | BED-ROO/T OWN ROOM Pa ty * vU HALL BED ROOM BATH E al : a SECOND FLOOR A gambrel-roofed Colonial house at Kingston, N.Y. Wilson Eyre, architect Although there is room for two bathrooms on the second story, it seems wise to pro- vide for a tub below as an extra. The servants’ toilet should be located in the basement and their bath in the attic. The large living hall is somewhat higher studded than the other rooms, and in addition is fin- ished into the roof. This roof is sup- ported byfourrough- hewn and _ simple trusses. ‘There are provisions for four window seats in bays, which can well be boxed in and provided with hinged covers. There is a step suggested between this room and the alcove. It was done with the idea of a tile floor, and as the alcove is an end motive and really a nook, the usual rule regarding such steps may per- haps be overruled. The alcove is provided with a well- lighted seat and a large fireplace. A sort of bookstall is built in back of the seat, which in reality makes a reading room of the alcove. As the demand for a large library in a country house is a rarity, the shelf room shown is in all probability sufficient. The L to the north has been utilised as a large photographic dark room in view of the beauty of the country in which the site is located and the great temptation, consequently, to make studies of it. This is perhaps larger than is necessary, and the portion next Planning the House 39 the chimney might well be made into a storeroom. Access to it is had through the living hall as well as from the outside. Before taking up the possibilities of the second floor some brief outline of the outside conditions may not be out of place here. Owing to the wild and irregular outlay of the plot, any thought of the ordinary garden has been abandoned; and, besides, we do not wish it to be too elaborate. It is true that an informal rock garden, based, perhaps, on the Japanese, might well be used if it were not for the very suggestive shape of the plan The idea of putting the garden into the angle of the house, thus squaring it up and making a terrace out of it, seems on the whole a good one. Its plan is simple, and not too elaborate to be taken care of by the lady of the house— that is, in a large measure. We should not think of inflicting the mower upon her, but the flowers are another matter. A sun dial stands at the intersection of the cross paths, bordering which are flower beds. A small hedge encloses the outer sides of the four small grass plots, and a hedge is planted against the south wall of the living room, bordering the main walk. At the intersections of the flower beds and the hedge are placed eight Roman pots filled with hydrangea or the like—anything which will make distinct spots. Although the garden is on formal lines, the flower treatment should be irregular in detail, to harmonise with the landscape. The terrace is enclosed by a wall having in it seats opposite the cross walks. The entrance to it is through an arch in the extension of the westerly wall of the alcove. ‘This entrance might well be provided with a stile to keep the sheep out of the flower beds. The utilisation of small spruce and cedars, in moderation, about the house is to be considered. The cedar hedge between the main approach and service entrance is advisable. Instead of making walks through the short-clipped grass, flat stepping stones, after the manner of the Japanese, will be found more effective and in character with the scattered rocks. Edges to drives and paths could well be made of loose stone as indicated. The second story has not been studied out to scale, but the first floor gives a fairly good idea of what it might be. There are chambers over the westerly part of the dining room, the hall and vestibule, the kitchen, the servants’ hall and the reception room. The kitchen chamber can have a small dressing room over the pantry and the dining-room chamber one over the easterly part of the dining room. The bathroom can be placed over the china closet, with a door into each dressing room. ‘The wall between the bath and servants’ hall should extend up to the second story, and continue south to form the east side of the upper hall- way. The space over the first-story bathroom should be left open into the hall- way to light it. A bathroom should be over the front entrance, with doors into the hallway and the reception-room chamber. As the living hall is quite high, a bay could be made in the reception-room chamber, overlooking It There can be two servants’ rooms in the attic, one in the north and one in the south gable. In the second story of the L and over the dark ro0m can be a studio. 40 The Country House For this reason the walls have been made at an angle with the rest of the house, so as to get the straight north light. This could be a billiard room or a den if desired. Off this room and over the alcove can be made a balcony, which might serve as a music gallery in event of a dance. As this is the country of rough stone, it seems that it would be a most excellent material for the house walls. If laid in white mortar with not too deepa joint, so that the white of the mortar shall count, its effect would be excellent. As to the general exterior, the small sketch shows what An eight-room gardener’s cot- might well be done tage on a large estate near tO make a simple big tre Gut tow $0008 and solid structure not too elaborate for the place. The pitch of the eaves sug- gests one type of Swiss chalet. And now with these preliminary Pea studies we are ready for the architect. Some minor changes will have to be made—we must expect that. We have made a beginning, however—a fairly good beginning, perhaps, because it is EMaioam, in the right direction. We have some- thing to work on, something to pull to pieces, and without that we have nothing at all. Of course there are other solutions of the problem —that we granted at the start. This one may not suit you. If it does not, take a bit of paper and try it yourself; it is good practice. It is not the writer’s intention to go into the question of style; that is a long road and a half understanding of it would do more harm than good. The pictures shown illustrate the diversity of style, and the architect is the one to carry out this side of the problem. Of exteriors, in a general way, without regard to style, these few words might be said: Be simple and truthful in KITCHEN. Planning the House 41 your exterior, as you should be with your plan, and let the former be an honest interpretation of the latter. Keep the roof simple; the more valleys the more leaks. Keep the plan simple; the more angles the more costly, as the plan naturally expresses itself in the exterior. Make your material count for that material and no other; the slight suggestion is permissible, but the out-and-out attempt to deceive is bad; the grained door and imitation stone and marble come under this head. We may make a shingle roof to suggest the English thatch, or treat our wooden siding in the form of stone, but the first gives the line only and is so slight as not to deceive as to material, while the latter is not marbled. In conclusion, remember that the best design is that which shows no effort to make itself interesting; the excess of ornament does not necessarily mean good design (in fact quite the contrary), nor the absence of it an inferior thing; and ‘lastly, that it is the simple thing that wears and becomes less tiresome from constant use and long association. ouse of Gen. Harrison Gray Otis, Los Angeles, Cal. An example of plaster mission work BRE h ete Fa A modern Colonie] house showing the hip roof ‘‘ decked”? at the top. CHAPTER III CONSTRUCTION OF THE SHELL ITH the plot of the house roughly measured and staked out, it is best to make several soundings so that the character of the soil may be definitely determined. Clay is to be avoided at any cost, unless you can get below it for a foundation. Rocky or ledgy soil is apt to be infested with springs calculated to make a swimming tank of your cellar if you are not careful. This is particularly so when the rock itself has to be cut into, as it opens up veins and fissures likely to be permeated with moisture. Ordinary soil, too, has its ground water or moist strata, which stands at varying levels according to the season. ‘To go below this is to attempt to drain the country. Don’t try it unless there be a good chance to rid yourself of it. Soil elevations are usually above ground water, and in such cases perfectly safe, as the sub- strata is ordinarily level or has less curvature than the top soil, which has been exposed to washing and the various untold actions during its submerged condition. It is always the best policy to make the soundings where the soil is supposed to be the wettest, and to a depth below that to which you intend to dig. In this way extreme conditions are tested, and some idea is obtained of just how near you may be above trouble. Having definitely determined on the location of the house and roughly staked out the same, the first step is to remove the loam from the site and to such a dis- 42 Construction of the Shell 43 tance from the house as it may be required to grade, or at least for ten feet, so that it may be out of the way of the working room. It should be piled in some con- Bh. venient place, where it will be : undisturbed and yet handy for future grading. Batter boards are then set at the house angles at the height of the underpinning, to allow of lines being stretched across (see Fig. 1). The batter board consists of strips of boards nailed hor- izontally to uprights driven firmly into the ground. They are sometimes set about one- half inch above the ee, required height so ay that the various lines ‘.¢ can be notched puro down to the requir- ed level. First the Fig 1. Showing the use of batter-boards in laying out the house principal wall line is established and the underpinning and foundation set off from these. In the case of the notches, the line is held taut by means of a brick or stone as a weight at either end; if nails are driven into the batter boards, to serve instead of notches, the lines are made fast to these and pulled as taut as possible. It is always better to have a sur- veyor lay out the house. He is in the habit of being care- ful and accurate, and your edifice is less apt to be out of square or out of level than if laid out by another. The excavation for the cellar should be made at least 8 inches larger all around than _ the outside of the foun- dation wall. This House at Lawrence Park, Bronxville, N.Y. A simple and vigorous examile of tone and will allow for the shingle work, with low-pitched hip roof. Wm. A. Bates, architect Batler-board VIA FL. fromAns i Espa ligafoable te ABS 44 The Country House pointing of the wall on the outside, and also a space to be filled with sand or gravel for the carrying off of water from the foundation. The excavation should be made to a depth which will insure a cellar head room of 8 feet at least (see Fig. 2). The ordinary house, set on a level, requires 24 feet of underpinning above grade. If set on a side hill it may reduce the uphill side; the total light and air area should not, however, be less than in the level exainple. The foundation trench should be 2 feet at least below the cellar level and of a width determined by the width of the building wall, which, in turn, depends on the weight of the structure and character of the soil. In case the cellar bottom is within reasonable distance of a known ledge, it is well to exca- vate the foundation trench to it so that an absolutely firm footing may be assured. If this extra depth is enough to warrant it, the width of the trench will have to be increased on the inside to allow the mason access to his work. The foundation, usually of stone, is sometimes built of brick. Brick, how- ever, is porous and is apt to chip and crumble with freezing, while the rough field stone withstands moisture and wears better. Foundations should be laid in cement mortar, brought to a smooth face inside and out and thoroughly pointed on both. ‘This repels moisture and vermin alike, whereas the common dry wall with only one face and rough projecting stones on the back invites trouble. This common form of wall is little more than useless. Being open at the back, the water passes into it, loosens the flimsy point- ing and comes through into the cellar. The wet wall freezes and, aided by the projecting levers on the back, heaves itself out of shape. After the water and frost come the rats, and it is then simply a question of how long the wall will stand the combined inroads of these three. The thickness of the foundation wall depends entirely, as already stated, on the weight it has to carry and the climatic conditions. The ordinary wall in New York and Boston is built of an even 20-inch thickness. In Bangor, Maine, and the vicinity foundations are built 3 feet at the bottom, tapering to 20 or 24 inches at the top. This is not merely a localism; the 20-inch wall has been tried and proved a failure. Sometimes it may be advisable to line up the inner side of the foundation with brickwork. In this case it should be on a line with the inside of the under- pinning so as to present one even surface, and it should be tied into the stonework by being built with it. Underneath all foundations a footing course should be laid. This should pro- ject beyond the outside of the foundation several inches on either side. The amount of this projection as well as the depth is determined by the character of the superstructure and the soil. Six inches projection on either side and per- haps a foot thick is the average. There are two common ways of building a footing course. The simpler and less expensive form is to fill the footing trench with loose stone, laid dry, on which the foundation is raised. The loose footing in this case serves as a drain for such water as may find its way through to the cellar wall; the water is carried off in like manner through a blind drain of loose stones. Construction of the Shell 45 In the case of a brick or stone structure, the footing is made of large regular stones, each of which is of the full width. The drain may be a porous pipe laid outside the footing (see Fig. 2),or instead of the pipe broken stone can be substituted. It is always best that the top of the footing course be at least 6 inches below the top of the cement bottom to insure the latter a dry surface. All stone work should be well bonded; that is, each course or layer of stone should break joints with the course below it. This breaking of joints should be generous. In order to tie the wall together in_ its width headers are used. These are simply ordinary long stones, set with the length across the wall. The courses should occur frequently, say every 3 feet. good mason will see to it that they do. In this way a portion of the wall cannot drop out at the bottom and cause trouble to the superstructure. The whole ties together as a solid mass. The cement used for the founda- tion and all such below-ground work should consist of one part best cement to two parts clean, ° sharp sand. This | should be mixed fresh as required, and not allowed to lie. A mortar con- sisting of one part lime, one part ce- ment and two parts clean, sharp sand is good, but this mix- ture is not as strong as the cement alone. Water-lable az. g LAM a FS, PTI POT REY SA ERTE Do OS NE EE WSS ER EROS SS PRR YUE NESS S Ra ets Wane ne eee LEE CONANT Mah EZ, NS {| Plaster i THE WOODEN WALL. THE BRICK WALL. OSM Hy ooo LULL LLL NWA Hs Water.tsble U; mre Caer P a 2 ESSSSS AAAS SSS SSS SSS mT Wess ‘ te Fig. 2. Sections showing wood and brick construction a. Brick fire stop d. Quarter round £: Vaulting or air space b. Sunk girts e. Part of sill . Fire stop c, Furring f. Drain k. Flashing Concrete for the cellar bottom should consist of one part best cement, two parts clean, sharp sand and three parts screened pebbles or very small stones. This should be at least 3 inches thick (4 is better) and be finished with a skim 46 The Country House coat of cement. It is best to make the flooring with a slight drain about the out- side wall (see Fig. 2), with a trap at the lower end entering the drain. This drain should on no account enter the sewer or house drain. ‘There is no need of extending the area of possible trouble any further than is necessary. It is not probable that with the ordinary precautions water will enter the cellar, but if it should this will be found of much value. Mortar for exposed brickwork or stonework should consist of one part best cement, one part lime and two parts clear sharp sand. Pure lime mortar may answer, but the above is better. The underpinning, the portion of wall between the foundation and the first floor, is, in the ordinary frame dwelling, of brick. This should be laid close with struck joints, having a course of headers every sixth course; this effectively ties the wall together. A “header” brick is one laid with the end or head to the weather; its length extends into. the wall, forming what is termed a “bond” with the rest of the work. The “‘stretch- r”’ brick is laid in the ordinary way, length to the weather. Often the un- derpinning is rough or cut stone, which Central motive of the Hammond House, Annapolis, Md. Hip roof with pediment Projection. is laid in the manner The projecting courses between stories emphasise the floor line a iH of its kind. The cellar piers are usually built of brick, one foot square, from a stone foot- ing below the cellar level, and provided with iron caps. Sometimes iron posts are substituted, and even 4-inch iron piping has been used with success on light structures. The iron cap is essential, however, for the secure support of the girder, since it does not shrink as does the ordinary wooden cap. The iron post has the advantage of less bulk than the brick pier without corresponding loss of strength, which is often a very great consideration. The framing of a house is an important consideration. It should not only hold together but be rigid as well. ‘The frame that will jar when the baby falls off the divan is not a rigid frame. The form of construction may have varying details common to various constructionists, but its main principles are substantially the same. t wer = PP of ; fs Construction of the Shell The braced frame is the old-fashioned form of our ances 47 Being tors. usually made of spruce, its timber dimensions are less than were those of the old oak frames, in which the corner posts projected into the room. The sill, the foundation member of the frame, is usu- ally of 6x 8-inch stock, set upon the underpinning 2 inches back from its outer face. Commonly it is merely laid there, but it is far better that it be bedded in mortar to shut out any draft which may find access through slight inequalities of the ealt In some instances the sill is bolt- ed to the foundation, the bolts being built into the wall and projecting above it through the sill; nuts and washers are then afhxed from the top. This will prevent the superstructure from taking French leave, without the knowledge of the foundation. The sill shown in Figs. 2 and 3 is made up of a 4x8 and a 2x6 spiked together. This is done for certain rea- sons which will be explained later. The common method of joining the intersecting angles of the sill is to “halve” them together. A mortise is cut through the two halves to allow the tenon or tongue of the post to enter. The halved sill is then spiked together, and the post, when in place, secured by a wooden pin pass- ing through the sill and tenon. The ordinary post is of 4x8 stock. We prefer the post made up of a 4x 8 and 4x 4 (see Fig. 3). Head Stud 4x4 \o 1x8 “+ { Stl Stud 4x4 Post - madeupokga ¥X8 anda Vx # sd spiked and bolted together. Floor-limbep 2x /o Ledyer-boa rd Head Stud Sill Stud Sunk Girt Head Stud Plan of Sill Showing Postand q Stud mor. tices, Sill Stud | Sunk Girt a ae x be SS feebs > > 2 s [Head Stud aay Ne N : = \ \ | Section of Post NN x\ ey aa a nodes mn I [ot Stud 7x47 _|8 it 8 qq x 5 4 Wt Foz Sil lipo et ere | = ay > [sm -made up of a 4 Yx6anda2x PE sprhed together: ELEVATION Fig. 3. Braced framing Floor-timber Sill SECHION::. i yak This is as strong one way as the other and will stand cutting away for brace, girts 48 The Country House 2te., better than will the single stick. The two sticks, having different grains, tend to an increase of strength in their combination. The sunk girt is placed at a height sufficient to receive the ends of the second-floor timbers upon it, and is framed into the posts and pinned. The raised girt is set on a level with the top of the floor timbers and, like the sunk girt, framed into the posts. Both girts are commonly 4 x 8 sticks. ee The plate, the capping member of AUR TOO Faiededoe SS th all frame, is ordinarily 4 xb, and T this is small enough. Like the sill, it is halved at the angles and mortised to receive the post. It may be made up of two 2 x 6 pieces spiked together, which form has its advantages. The braces have an obvious office —they preserve the plumb and rigidity of the frame. The braced frame, un- like the balloon frame, can stand alone, and is complete in itself without the aid of temporary support. It is always ad- visable, in instances where the braces are framed into a made-up sill or post, to “lag bolt’? the members of the made- up timber together; the strain is such that ordinary nailing is apt to loosen (see Fig. 3). The ledger board which supports the attic floor timbers is of I-inch stock let into the inner side of the studding. In comparison with the girts it appears weak, but it is really stronger than it looks. It is held firmly on edge; thus its depth, which 1s_ its strength, is not allowed to become impaired by twisting. This and the support afforded by cutting into the studs make it adequate for the purpose. Window and door studs, usually 4.x 4, can be made up of two pieces of ordinary studding, but the single stick is perhaps better for the braced frame. They are framed in, at each end, to the horizontal members. The head stud, which forms the top of the window or door opening, should be framed on as the tie beam of a miniature truss, which, coming under girts and plate, helps to support them, and at the same time prevents the head stud from sagging and bearing on the door or window frames, which would happen were the truss omitted. Of course, for the ordinary opening, the girt would change but very slightly, if at all; yet the brace makes a more rigid structure, and one less liable to jar, which is the aim of good construction. The sill stud receives the weight of the window, and should be made secure. It is not necessary that it should be framed in. An ordinary piece of boarding Window opening SH Stud 2-254 First - mage Up of one Yak one 2x6 Jost Spiked together Fig. 4. Balloon framings Construction of the Shell 49 under each end, nailed to the upright frame stud with the common “jack” or short studs between, will support it. Common studs are usually 2x4 and are seldom framed into the larger timbers, although this may be done. If securely nailed they will be found strong enough. If they are to be framed in, the mortise should be but slight, so as not to cut away too much wood from the large timbers. In such cases, too, the made- up sill (see Fig. 3) will be of advantage, as all the mortises can be cut before it is spiked to the 4.x 8; and as these mortises can be cut through it, the actual labour is less. In a large house it may be advisable to make the common studding 2x 5. In such a case the upright sticks should be increased accordingly. Studs are commonly set 16 inches on centres. If more rigid work is re- quired, they can be 12 inches on centres. As ordinary laths are 4 feet in length, and as it is desirable to lay them without any more cutting than is absolutely necessary, one or the other of these spacings should be adhered to with accuracy. Properly speaking, the balloon frame is one in which the frame alone is not self-supporting, and the studding runs continuously from the sill to the plate. No braces are used except temporary ones; the outside boarding, laid diagonally, is depended upon to hold the frame to- gether and in shape. It is not advis- able, however, to construct a balloon frame without the brace in some form or other. Hence the “long brace” is employed in the better work of this sort. Fig. 4 shows a section of balloon framing with a good form of bracing. The sill is laid in the ordinary way. The posts, which are usually simply nailed at the foot, should be mortised into the sill and held in a perpendicular position by the use of temporary diag- onal stays. The window and door studs are made up of two 2.x 4 studs, one of which should be mortised into the sill. The common studs are securely nailed at the foot and carried up to irregular heights, spaced and held by _tempo- rary stays, as already stated. The first floor timbers are set in place and enough of the under floor covering laid loosely upon them to work on. The “false girt,” which is the same as the “ledger board” of the braced frame, is then let into the inside of the studs, and the second-floor timbers put in place and floor boards laid loosely upon them. The height of the plate is then calculated and the uprights cut off or spliced out to Showing rough stuccco walls, with pitch roof and overhanging gable 50 The Country House meet it. A 2x6 timber is then nailed across the top and another laid upon it, breaking joints at the corners; this forms the plate. As is often the case, the attic floor timbers are laid on the plate, although the “ledger board” can be used if a higher story is desired. After the rough skeleton has been erected, and prior to boarding in, the “long braces” are set in place and securely spiked to all points of bearing. They are of 2-inch stock, let into the outside of the frame, and are made as long as possible. The ex- ample shown is a common and awk- ward corner in which the simple form of bracing is utterly out of the question. If the window ‘‘a”’ were not there the straight brace could be used as shown by “b.” ee cae As it is, the other “Maxwell Court,” Rockville, Conn. An excellent example of clean and healthy design. e from the Ost The low hip roof is decked to reduce the height, and thus add to the effectiveness of the long brac % P lines. Charles A. Platt, architect to the plate 1s neces- sary. The joint at “ce” is halved and consequently weakens the brace; it should be reinforced by a 2-inch strip at the back. The cleats “d” are used to keep the brace from slipping. ‘The latter is not framed in at the ends. It will be noticed that the head and sill studs, like the upright window studs, are made up (securely nailed together). This method, if properly car- ried out, is strong, effective and economical inasmuch as it often uses up short pieces of studding that are too long for bridging. The balloon frame, however, has its limitations. Window and door openings should come over one another, otherwise the framing becomes much weakened and complicated. The fact that a window is omitted in the motive does not matter. If the window “a” were omitted, the double studding need not of necessity run to the height of the plate. The ordinary stud is merely reinforced up to the false girt. This is one of the advantages of the made-up window stud. Prior to boarding in it is necessary to see that the false girt and plate are straight and true. The balloon frame at this stage is apt to be very shaky, having no heavy girts to keep the wall in line. This straightening process is effected by diagonal braces laid flat on the second and third floor timbers or up- Construction of the Shell 51 right braces from the floor to the member in question. These braces should remain in place until the permanent braces are substituted. “The outside board- ing, the under floors laid diagonally, the braced partition and the partition bind- ings are effective agents to the desired end. It is important that the boarding in of a balloon frame should be laid diagonally, as it is Re ae Rough Flooring ] a most eftective brace in itself. If its direction be changed — several times on the same wall surface its ef- fectiveness will be greatly increased. Ordinary floor timbers are of 2x 10 stock; this, of course, in cases where they can be : IX