eee rs Ses. (es ae Ware bry QT iss CSMED CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY fF CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION ON CHINA AND THE CHINESE Tia i i iit ROBES FROM THE MANCHU COURT GATHERED IN PEKING BY FREDERICK MOORE THE ANDERSON GALLERIES NEW YORK CATALOGUE OF BRILLIANT OLD ROBES FROM THE LATE COURT OF THE MANCHUS GATHERED IN PEKING BY THE WELL-KNOWN CONNOISSEUR FREDERICK MOORE “Ud open aT rss CSMEe W.9426 8S TO BE SOLD FRIDAY AFTERNOON AND EVENING Marcu 2, 1917 At 2:30 anp 8:15 o’cLock AND SATURDAY AFTERNOON Marcu 3, 1917 AT 2.30 0’ cLock ON PUBLIC EXHIBITION FROM MONDAY, FEBRUARY 26TH THE ANDERSON GALLERIES Mapison AVENUE AT FORTIETH STREET New York THE ALEXANDER PRESS "14-116 W, 27TH ST. Nv CONDITIONS OF SALE 1. All bids to be per Lor as numbered in the Catalogue. 2. The highest bidder to be the buyer; in all cases of disputed bids the lot shall be resold, but the Auctioneer will use his judg- ment as to the good faith of all claims and his decision shall be final. He also reserves the right to reject any fractional. or nominal bid which in his judgment may delay or injuriously affect the sale. 3. Buyers to give their names and addresses and to make such cash payments on account as may be required, in default of which the lots purchased to be resold immediately. 4. The lots to be taken away at the buyer’s expense and risk within twenty-four hours from the conclusion of the sale, and the remainder of the purchase money to be absolutely paid on or before delivery, in default of which The Anderson Galleries, Incorporated, will not be responsible if the lot or lots be lost, stolen, damaged, or destroyed, but they will be left at the sole risk of the purchaser, and subject to storage charges. 5. To prevent inaccuracy in delivery, and inconvenience in the settlement of purchases, no lot will be delivered during the sale. 6. All lots will be exposed for public exhibition in The Anderson Galleries before the date of sale, for examination by intending purchasers, and The Anderson Galleries, Incorporated, will not be responsible for the correctness of the description, authenticity, genuineness, or for any defect or fault in or concern- ing any lot, and makes no warranty whatever, but will sell each lot exactly as it is, wi1rHouT RECouRsE. But upon receiving be- fore the date of sale, expert opinion in writing that any lot is not as represented, The Anderson Galleries, Incorporated, will use every effort to furnish proof to the contrary, and in default of such proof the lot will be sold subject to the declaration of the aforesaid expert, he being liable to the owner or owners thereof for damage or injury occasioned by such declaration. 7%. Terms Casu. Upon failure to comply with the above con- ditions any sum deposited as part payment shall be forfeited, and all such lots as remain uncleared after twenty-four hours from the conclusion of the sale, will be resold by either private or public sale at such time as The Anderson Galleries, Incorpo- rated, shall determine, without further notice, and if any deficiency arises from such resale it shall be made good by the defaulter at this sale together with all the expenses incurred thereby. This condition shall be without prejudice to the right of The Anderson Galleries, Incorporated, to enforce the contract with the buyer, without such re-sale. 8. Brps. We make no charge for executing orders for our customers and use all bids competitively, buying at the lowest price permitted by other bids. 9. The Anderson Galleries, Incorporated, will afford every facility for the employment of carriers and packers by the purchasers, but will not be responsible for any damage arising from the acts of such carriers and packers. Priced Copy of this Catalogue may be secured for $1.50 The Anderson Galleries INCORPORATED Mapison AvENvuE at Fortizetu Street, New York. TELEPHONE, Murray Hitt, 7680 SALES CONDUCTED BY MR. FREDERICK A. CHAPMAN, INTRODUCTION Having been a resident of Peking prior to the fall of the Manchu Dynasty and having had opportunity to witness the elaborate costumes of court functions in the Forbidden City, Mr. Frederick Moore was greatly impressed with the color ef- fects, unique, strange and brilliant to an extravagant degree, yet seldom out of harmony or wanting in real beauty. For its picturesque character, but only for that reason, he regretted the passing of the ancient court with all its pomp and grandeur. When the Chinese Republic was established and the officials and ladies of the court began disposing of their gorgeous robes (to be modern, purchasing European clothes in their stead) Mr. Moore took advantage of the opportunity to make his sump- tuous collection. The collection contains old Mandarin robes covered with em- broidered dragons; dainty coats of court ladies with the phenix, the emblem of the Empress; splendid cloaks of priests, large enough to cover the backs of several men and embroidered with strange devices known and understood only to Llama devotees. It is safe to say that such a collection has not been shown before in America. COAT OLD EMBROIDERED G ER 1] [Numb FIRST SESSION FRIDAY AFTERNOON, MARCH 2, 1917 AT 2:30 O’CLOCK Lots 1 to 115 GOLD EMBROIDERED COAT Electric blue silk, embroidered in gold thread, with medal- lions containing the Buddhistic emblems. Butterflies and floral sprays complete the design. Collar, border and cuffs finely embroidered in designs of birds, animals, and flow- ers on white silk. Lined with blue. [See Illustration] LADY’S SUMMER COAT Watered silk of a peculiar blue with dragon medallions. Deep white cuffs, embroidered with prunus and various other blossoms and butterflies. Unlined. PLAIN COAT OF SCARLET SILK Collar, cuffs and border of white, minutely and elaborately embroidered with figures in scenes. Lined with blue silk. BUTTERFLY COAT Red silk, entirely covered with butterflies embroidered in many colors. Collar and border of black embroidered with blue butterflies. Broad white cuffs. Lined with blue silk. BLUE COAT Embroidered with medallions in black, containing a stork in white. Collar and border of white, embroidered with flowers in black. Lined with blue silk. 9 10 11 BRILLIANT RED COAT Of watered silk, the front, border, and collar embroidered with braid. Silk Dog Foo embroidered in various places at the border. Cuffs of white embroidered with peacocks and flowers. Lined with blue silk. LADY’S SUMMER COAT OF WATERED SILK Dark blue, with dragon medallions watered in the silk. Collar and border of black silk, embroidered with blue prunus flowers. Deep white cuffs, with decorations of floral sprays. Unlined. BOY’S COAT Maroon silk, with embroidered braid on the collar and front forming an attractive pattern. Cuffs of white, embroidered in gold thread and various colored silks. Lined with blue. LADY’S SKIRT In green, embroidered with little scenes on its many pleats, two landscapes on the front panels. Lined with blue. GORGEOUS RED COAT Elaborately embroidered with medallions containing figures and grotesque white elephant; many floral sprays and but- terflies surround the medallions. Border, collar, and cuffs of white, embroidered with figures and flowers. Salmon pink lining. COAT OF GREEN SILK Collar and border of braid and white silk, embroidered with flowers and butterflies. Cuffs of salmon pink, embroidered in the Pekin stitch in blue, making a striking contrast. Lined with silk of deep pink. 10 12 13 14 15 16 17 RED COAT OF WATERED SILK Collar, border and cuffs of white silk, embroidered with fig- ures in scenes. The collar and border decoration is fin- ished with three rows of braids. Lined with blue. BROADCLOTH COAT Dark blue, with elaborate decoration of embroidery and braid round the collar and border. Cuffs of pink silk em- broidered in blue. Lined with pink. BLUE COAT Medallions contain the Dragon watered in the silk. Bor- der, collar, and cuffs of black silk, embroidered with prunus branches and butterflies in many colored silks. Lined with a deep salmon silk. COAT OF SALMON PINK Brocaded with Buddhistic designs. Border and collar of blue, with floral decoration in black and Buddhistic emblems in gold thread. The border is completed by braid. Cuffs of white silk, embroidered with a scene in blue. Lining of light yellow. BLACK COAT OF PLAIN SILK With medallion decoration in gold thread and colored silk, showing the Imperial Dragon in the clouds. Border, collar, and cuffs with the chrysanthemum and Buddhistic emblems in blue and gold. Yellow lining. MAROON COAT OF WATERED SILK Border and collar decoration of white silk, embroidered with birds and flowers. Cuffs of blue, embroidered with chrys- anthemums in the Pekin stitch, and many other flowers. Light blue silk lining. * 11 18 19 20 21 22 23 SUMMER COAT IN BLUE Brocaded silk. Collar and border of white, embroidered with prunus blossoms and butterflies. Unlined. BLUE BROCADE PLUSH COAT Butterfly decoration. Border and cuffs of black silk, em- broidered with flowers and bats. Pink silk lining. BOY’S COAT IN BLUE The silk embroidered in gold thread with medallions and floral sprays. Cuffs, collar, and border of white, with pea- cock and floral decoration in many colors. Lined with light blue. COAT OF CHANGEABLE SILK Pinkish lavender, decorated with green butterflies woven in the silk. Collar and border of black, embroidered with flowers and butterflies. White cuffs, embroidered with floral sprays edged with black border to match collar. Lined with blue silk. LLAMA PRIEST’S ROBE Vivid blue silk, with the entire surface covered with large medallions containing the Imperial Five Clawed Dragon. Between the medallions are the clouds, bats, birds and Bud- dhistic emblems all done in heavy real gold thread. Collar and wide sleeves are edged with a broad band of dark blue watered silk. Light yellow silk lining. [See Illustration | COAT OF PLAIN BLACK SILK Decorated about the collar, border, and cuffs with embroid- ered braids of many colors and embroidery on white. The beauty is enhanced by a strip of fur along the border. Lined with blue. 12 LLAMA PRIEST’S ROBE [NUMBER 22] 24 25 26 27 28 29 BOY’S COAT IN BLUE Brocaded silk. Collar, border, and cuffs of white, embroid- ered with figures and scenes in gold and colors. Lined with blue. DARK GREEN BROADCLOTH COAT Plain material, the collar and border being decorated en- tirely in real gold thread. Cuffs of maroon also embroid- ered in gold thread. Lining of blue. BRILLIANT RED COAT ’ Plain silk, embroidered in black, with chrysanthemums, peaches of Longevity, and bats for good fortune, some of the decoration being in the fine Pekin stitch. Collar and border edged with vivid blue embroidery on white silk. Lined with blue. DARK BLUE COAT Decorated with applique medallions of figures and land- scapes, mostly done in the Pekin stitch, in various colors. Collar and border of blue, embroidered with real gold thread and colors. Cuffs of yellow with heavy embroidery. Unlined. SCARLET COAT Embroidered all over with chrysanthemums, cherry blos- soms and bats in blue. The bats are done in the Pekin stitch, outlined with real gold thread. Border of black, embroidered with blue. Green lining. ELECTRIC BLUE COAT Brocaded silk with medallions. Collar and border of black, with blue floral decoration outlined with embroidered braid. White cuffs, embroidered with the Pekin stitch. Blue lining. 14 30 31 32 33 34 35 GREY BROCADED COAT Medallion decoration. Border and collar of black, em- broidered with Howo birds in the clouds, done in blues with a touch of green and red. Cuffs of white, with embroidery bordered with strip to match border. COAT OF DARK BLUE WATERED SILK Medallion design. Border and collar embroidered in gold, edged with braid. Cuffs of white silk, embroidered with many colors. Unlined. BRIGHT SCARLET COAT Plain silk, with all over embroidery of flowers and butter- flies in blues and pinks. Some of the work is in Pekin stitch. Border and collar of white, embroidered with small flowers and edged with a vivid green braid. Cuffs of yel- low, embroidered to match border. Lining of vivid green. BOY’S COAT OF BLUE SILK Beautifully embroidered in blue and gold thread, with Dog Foo and small medallions, also prunus and chrysanthemum flowers. Border and collar of black, embroidered in blue. Blue lining. LADY’S SUMMER COAT Bright yellow watered silk. Collar and strip down the front of black heavily embroidered with butterflies. Cuffs of white, embroidered with bats and flowers with edge to match border. Unlined. DELICATE LAVENDER SHORT COAT Embroidered all over with birds, flowers, and butterflies in many light colors. Border and collar of white, embroidered in many colors and edged with yellow braid., Blue lining. 15 36 37 38 39 40 41 4:2 GREEN BROCADED COAT Howo birds in the clouds brocaded in the silk. Border of black, embroidered with small flowers, birds, and Buddhistic emblems, edged with a peculiar shade of pink braid. Cuffs of white, embroidered in many colors. Blue lining. DARK BLUE BROCADED SILK COAT White collar, border, and cuffs, embroidered in many col- ored silks. Unlined. BRIGHT PINK COAT Brocaded with medallions. Border and collar of black, decorated with many flowers. Cuffs of white, embroidered with floral sprays and edged to match border. Unlined. BLUE COAT Sprays and butterflies shown on the silk. Collar and border of pink, embroidered in many colors. Broad white cuffs embroidered in the Pekin stitch, and real gold thread with pink edge to match border. Pink lining. PLAIN BLUE COAT Border and collar of white, embroidered with ducks, deer, Howo bird, and flowers in small designs in many colors. Cuffs with blue, black and gold embroidery. Lined with deep pink. BLUE AND PINK BROCADED COAT Light blue background, with pink flowers covering the sur- face. Border and collar of plain black, edged with a nar- row yellow band. Plain yellow cuffs. Blue lining. SEA GREEN COAT Plain silk. Border, collar, and cuffs of white, embroidered in many colors. Unlined. 16 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 DEEP PLUM COLORED COAT Of a plain peculiar fabric. Border and collar of black and white. Cuffs of white, embroidered with flowers and fig- ures in colors and real gold thread. Unlined. MEDALLION BROCADED COAT Light green. Collar, border, and edge of cuffs of black, em- broidered with plum blossoms and Howo birds in blue and white. Cuffs of white, embroidered with flowers. Unlined. NILE GREEN BROCADED COAT Collar, border, and edge of cuffs embroidered in blue on black, edged with pink and gold braid. Cufis of white, em- broidered with flowers. Pink lining. LIGHT BLUE SUMMER COAT Brocaded. Collar and border of black, with many colored floral decorations and scenes with figures. Unlined. LIGHT YELLOW BROCADED SILK COAT Vivid blue border and collar, on which figures and trees are seen. White cuffs, embroidered in gold thread and blue. LIGHT CRIMSON COAT Brocaded silk. Collar, border, and cuffs of white, embroid- ered with flowers and figures in little scenes. Unlined. LIGHT YELLOW COAT Embroidered all over with floral sprays and bats in differ- ent shades of blue. Collar, cuffs, and border of white, em- broidered in blue. Lined with yellow. 17 50 51 52 53 54 55 DRAGON MILITARY COAT Of very rich brocade in faded colors on deep blue. Cuffs of the horse-hoof shape. Dragon bands surround the skirt and the waist, and a huge dragon covers the back while others extend over the shoulders. Blue silk lining. [See Illustration | BOY’S COAT IN DARK BLUE Heavily embroidered with medallions, showing figures and the silk. Collar and border of black, emboridered with floral sprays to complete the design. Border of black, em- broidered in blue and real gold thread. Light blue cuffs, embroidered with scenes in many colors. Deep pink lining. LADY’S SHIRT IN LIGHT DELFT BLUE Embroidered in pink, with a slight touch of lavender, show- ing bats and chrysanthemums. The entire piece done in the Pekin stitch. Lined with red. DEEP ORANGE COAT Brocaded crepe silk. Collar, cuffs, and border of white, embroidered with flowers and Buddhistic emblems in many colors. The lower part of the cuff is embroidered with figures in landscapes. Lined with blue. SMALL BLUE AND WHITE STRIPED COAT With loom work decoration of flowers and butterflies in delicate green, pink, and gold. Tight cuff of black, em- broidered with flowers and butterflies with edging of pink braid. BRIGHT RED COAT Brocaded with floral design. Narrow collar and border of black, with blue embroidery. Cuffs of light yellow, em- broidered in many colors with bats and chrysanthemums, part of which is done in the Pekin stitch. Lined with light blue silk. 18 DRAGON MILITARY COAT [NuMBER 50] 56 57 59 60 61 BROCADED SCARLET COAT Collar and border of yellow, minutely embroidered with scenes and figures. Blue cuffs, embroidered in gold and colors. Lined with blue. BEAUTIFULLY BROCADED GREEN COAT Collar and border of black, embroidered in blue, edged with yellow braid. Cuffs of light yellow, embroidered in shades of blue with flowers and bats. Lined with pink silk. LIGHT BRICK RED COAT Heavily brocaded silk with medallions. Border and collar of white, embroidered with blue and real gold thread. Wide white cuffs, with embroidery of plum branches and butter- flies. Lined with blue silk. HEAVY DARK BLUE SILK COAT Brocaded with medallions of flowers. Border and collar of black embroidered with floral design in blues. Edged with yellow braid showing conventionalized butterflies. Cuffs of white, with floral sprays bordered with design to match. Lined with yellow. LITTLE BOY’S COAT Red silk, embroidered with floral sprays in blue and Bud- dhistic emblems in gold thread. Border, collar, and cuffs of black, with blue bat and flower design. Lined with blue. SCARLET COAT OF BROADCLOTH Collar and border of white, embroidered in gold thread and colors, edged with yellow braid. Cuffs of white, embroid- ered with medallions of real gold thread containing figures and floral sprays in colors. Lined with blue. 20 62 63 64 65 66 67 DARK BLUE BROADCLOTH COAT Border and collar of black silk, embroidered with many scenes and figures in various colors. White cuffs, also em- broidered with scenes and figures. Lined with blue. LADY’S COAT IN VIVID BLUE Of brocaded silk. Collar, cuffs, and border embroidered with cherry blossoms and leaves in pinks and greens. Lined with a deep salmon silk. LIGHT OLIVE GREEN COAT Brocaded with bats and rings. Collar and border of white silk, embroidered with small figures and sprays edged with three strips of braid. Cuffs of blue, embroidered with birds in many colors. Pink lining. LADY’S SUMMER COAT IN LIGHT BLUE Brocaded silk with Buddhistic emblems. Collar and border of black silk, embroidered in blues. Cuffs of yellow, em- broidered in many colors with the Pekin stitch. Unlined. DEEP IVORY COAT Border and collar of white, with embroidery in colors and real gold thread. Cuffs of white, with scenes in blue. Lined with blue. LADY’S LAVENDER SATIN COAT Brocaded with bats and embroidered with medallions show- ing figures and scenes, with many sprays of flowers, but- terflies, birds, and small medallions in gold and colors. Border and collar of white, embroidered with butterflies and flowers. Cuffs of white, with minute decoration of flowers and animals in real gold thread and colors. Lined with pink. 21 68 69 70 71 72 BLUE SATIN COAT Brocaded with bats among clouds. Collar, border, and cuffs of white, embroidered with flowers and scenes, mostly in the Pekin stitch. The collar and border outlined with four narrow strips of braid. Lined with light blue. LIGHT GREEN COAT Brocaded with butterflies. Collar and border of black silk, embroidered with cherry blossoms and chrysanthemums in blue. Cuffs of white minutely, embroidered in colors. Lined with blue. LADY’S BROCADED MAROON COAT Wide collar and border of blue, embroidered with small de- signs of flowers and birds outlined with braids. Cuffs of white, embroidered with Buddhistic emblems in colors. Lined with a deep pink. SUMMER COAT OF WHITE Deep blue border and collar, embroidered with birds and flowers in harmonizing colors and edged with a narrow band of lavender. Cuffs of yellow, embroidered. Unlined. STRANGE LLAMA PRIEST’S COAT Covered with devices known only to a student of Llamaism. On a faded salmon ground. The symbols and decorations are worked out in gold thread and various colors. The central figure on the back of the coat is a pagoda of many roofs, flanked by dragons; below it is a medallion showing an ancient Sake and a lady; the lotus is in evidence; also bats, numerous Chinese characters, symbols of Buddhism, various moons, and other devices. Broad blue border bands contain mythical animals of grotesque shape. Lining of yellow silk. [See Illustration] 99 STRANGE LLAMA ROBE [NUMBER 72] 73 74 76 77 LIGHT BLUE COAT Brocaded with chrysanthemums and butterflies. Border, and collar embroidered in colors and gold thread on white. Yellow cuffs, finely embroidered with birds and flowers; edged with black, embroidered with blue and gold. Lined with light blue. DARK BLUE SUMMER COAT Embroidered with medallions in colors, containing flowers. Border of blue embroidered silk. Cuffs of white, with pagodas and trees embroidered in colors. Unlined. PLAIN BLUE SATIN COAT Collar, border, and cuffs embroidered with scenes and fig- ures in colors, surrounded by a framework of real gold thread. Lined with blue. BROADCLOTH COAT IN DARK BLUE Plain except for the heavy embroidered bands containing designs of the Hundred Antiques in gold thread; including also symbols of Buddhism and emblems of the scholar— the chess board, the pile of books, the scrolls of paintings, and the musical instrument. Broad cuffs of beautiful blue, embroidered with gold thread, the design being antique pots, vases and censers. Blue silk lining. PALE GREEN COAT OF WATERED SILK With heavy embroidered bands around collar and borders. Embroidery in blue stitching and gold thread with various symbols. Broad white cuffs, with a heavy embroidered panel in the fine Pekin stitch, enhanced with gold thread, representing a bird, a flowering tree, and a basket of fruit and flowers. Lining of rich old salmon silk, also watered. 24 78 79 80 81 82 LONG SCARLET COAT With dragon medallions watered upon it. Broad panel-like bands of white, embroidered with flowers and elaborate birds in numerous colors, form the borders. Very broad cuffs of similar embroidery, and also a black band embroidered with numerous butterflies. Blue silk lining. PINK COAT OF SILK GAUZE With broad white bands forming the borders, embroidered with blue flowers and butterflies. Similar cuffs contain a bird in the design. Unlined. LADY’S COAT IN SALMON PINK With an all-over design of lotus flowers embroidered in blue and white, with extravagant butterflies fluttering among the sprays. Lower borders are of the conventional water de- sign showing the Waves of Eternity with here and there a Buddhist symbol. The lines of the embroidery and the foliations are particularly well traced. Blue silk lining. ’ LIGHT MAUVE COAT With brilliant butterfly decorations in many colors and touches of gold thread. The designs and coolrs of the but- terflies are particularly noteworthy. Broad border bands of white with blue and gold embroidery, and broad cuffs of very pale blue with antique vases and pots containing flow- ers, including the Buddha’s Fingers, worked in fine Pekin stitch and some gold thread. A secondary band of black, also embroidered in blue and white. Blue silk lining. RICH SCARLET COAT With flowers and butterflies in many colors thrown artis- tically over the entire field, some of them being in the fine stitching. Broad white border bands, containing little scenes of the country side, including small figures. Green silk lining. bo uu 83 84 86 87 WHITE SATIN COAT All-over embroidery in white, of scenes showing trees, pa- godas, and mountains. Borders and edges of cuffs of black silk, embroidered with flowers and butterflies in white and blue. Very light blue silk lining. RICH SCARLET COAT Embroidered all over with chrysanthemums in the Pekin stitch, floral sprays and birds in different shades of blue. The lower border richly embroidered in design of the Waves of Eternity, with here and there a chrysanthemum in the Pekin stitch outlined with gold thread. Blue silk lining. LADY’S WHITE SKIRT Two of the panels elaborately embroidered with figures of ladies playing instruments, serving tea, and entertaining, all finely done in many colors. The pleats of the skirt are each embroidered with flowers and butterflies, while the border is of black with embroidery in numerous colors. SHORT BLUE COAT Beautifully embroidered with figures in medallions; in col- ors surrounded by a design in real gold thread. Over the remaining surface are floral sprays, done mostly in pinks with gold leaves. Borders of black, with heavy gold embroidery; cuffs entirely embroidered in the Pekin stitch, showing medallions of men and boys, with an all-over de- sign between the medallions. Pink silk lining. OLIVE GREEN COAT Elaborately embroidered in many colors with sprays and pots of flowers, making a very effective design, much of which is in the Pekin stitch. Borders and collar of red with conventional designs and figures. Light orange cuffs, heavily embroidered with flowers in pots, the center flower being a chrysanthemum in the Pekin stitch. Lining of deep pink silk. 26 88 89 90 g1 92 7 LIGHT CRIMSON COAT Brocaded design of small medallions. The borders richly embroidered in colors containing figures and scenes framed with embroidery in real gold thread. Cuffs of yellow, finely embroidered with peacock and butterflies in gold me- dallions. Blue lining. DARK BLUE SATIN COAT Embroidery of bats and floral sprays attractively scattered over the surface, with trees and shrubs at the lower border to complete the design. Bands of black embroidered in blue, with bats and clouds, and conventionalized Howo bird in white and red at intervals. Light blue watered silk lining. BOY’S OLIVE GREEN COAT Brocaded design of butterflies and clouds, with numerous small floral medallions and butterflies embroidered over the surface in many colors. Borders and cuffs of braids. Lined in pink. RICH SCARLET COAT Design of bats, butterflies, and sprays of flowers, the border with a heavy embroidery representing the Waves of Eter- nity. On the chest and the back is a square containing the Pheenix, emblem of the Empress, standing on the Waves of Eternity and looking at the Sacred Ball above its head. Around it are clouds and branches of flowers. All done in blue and white with the exception of the ball, and a fine frame around the squares, which is in gold thread. Lined with light blue silk. MAUVE COAT ARTISTICALLY EMBROIDERED With large sprays of chrysanthemums, cherry blossoms, and lotus in many colors, with here and there a bat done in real gold thread. Borders and edge of cuffs in white silk, em- broidered with vine-like decorations in many colors. Vivid blue silk lining. 27 93 94: 95 96 DARK BLUE COAT Plain surface with numerous medallions containing storks in a landscape. The entire embroidery done in blue and white with the exception of a touch of red and green on the stork’s head. The border of the skirt is embroidered to represent a landscape in which deer, storks, and bats are seen. White cuffs, embroidered in colors, depicting a num- ber of men in a festival boat. Light blue watered lining. SHORT DARK BLUE COAT Plain surface entirely covered with flowers, bats, peaches (the emblem of Longevity), all embroidered in numerous brilliant shades. The borders of black, with floral decora- tions in blue and white and Buddhistic emblems in real gold thread. Cuffs of yellow, with a panel showing a large chrysanthemum in Pekin stitch, with a conventionalized bat on either side, edged with a strip to match the border. Lined with light blue. SHORT COAT IN BLUE A beautiful piece of workmanship with butterflies, flowers, and blossoms profusely scattered over a field of fine blue. Numerous small medallions worked upon the coat depict scenes in Chinese life, outlined in real gold thread. The cuffs and collar, which are of white, contain human figures, flowers, blossoms, and pots holding plants. Lining is of a peculiar shade of pink. SMALL BLACK COAT Lady’s coat in black, having no ornamentations on the field. A band of white borders the coat, upon which blossoms, flowers, and fantastic animals have been embroidered in many pleasing colors. The animals are outlined in gold thread. The lining is of a delicate blue, containing many small designs. The broad cuffs of the coat, which are also in white, display Chinese boating scenes, with a pagoda or two along the shore. 28 97 98 99 100 101 LONG COAT IN A DELICATE SALMON The medallions depict Chinese ladies admiring a garden. The single pale blue blossom on the front of the garment lends the coat a peculiar air of distinction. A band of white borders the coat and contains many small scenes, among which figures appear. The broad cuffs are likewise adorned. Pale yellow lining. SKIRT IN WATERED WHITE SILK Showing long black bands of heavy silk and small narrow bands with lotus blossoms delicately worked thereon. Along the base of the skirt, butterflies, flowers, blossoms, and fruits are thrown in beautiful array. Each side of the skirt contains a panel, in which is worked an extravagant white elephant having on his back one of the Hundred An- tiques. Besides the heavily embroidered blossoms, a bat, the emblem of good fortune, may be distinguished. LONG COAT IN DEEP IVORY A fine coat, having on the field embroideries of flowers and lotus blossoms, with here and there a bat, the emblem of Happiness. The cuffs and collar, which are both in white, contain delicate traceries in green, blue, white, red, and yellow. Lining in a brilliant apple green. LONG WHITE COAT With embroidered flowers, blossoms, and butterflies, some in the delicate Pekin stitch. A heavy blue border effec- tively offsets the dazzling white, as does the beautifully embroidered collar. Lining of a peculiar shade of pink. Altogether an excellent example of the peculiar work- manship of the Chinese. COAT IN VIVID BLUE Richly embroidered with the Imperial Dragon in medal- lions, with heavy Waves of Eternity at the bottom, all done in real gold thread. Border of black, with blue and gold embroidery. Pink lining. 29 102 103 104 105 COAT OF THE HUNDRED ANTIQUES In very dark blue, showing many symbols thrown over the field in profusion and with startling effect. The flowers and blossoms, heavily embroidered in many colors, are shown with and without vases and numerous other varied vessels. The broad white cuffs contain a few pleasing scenes, in which ladies appear. The bottom of the coat has the conventional Waves of Eternity design, with the spray and cloud effect. Lining in a light blue. COAT IN MIDNIGHT BLUE With scenes, fruits, flowers, and blossoms thrown in end- less profusion over the field. In the embroidery may be distinguished Buddhistic emblems, symbols of the Hun- dred Antiques, human figures in various attitudes of work and play, pagodas, and delicate traceries of clouds. The bat, for happiness, is by no means lacking in the excellent composition of the design. Around the collar is a small narrow band, having a garland of emblems of Buddhism. The collar itself is a piece of fine workmanship, depicting the lotus blossom in all its beauty. The broad gold cuffs likewise contain small panels of the Hundred Antiques. Lining of a delicate yellow. {See Illustration | LONG COAT IN BRILLIANT SCARLET With an all-over design of small cherry blossoms and fan- tastic birds, in various attitudes, embroidered in brilliant colors. The border of midnight blue contains many strange devices, among them being a curious Chinese char- acter, worked in real gold thread. Lining of blue. LADY’S BLUE SKIRT In the heaviest of blues, hardly discernible from black, upon which have been embroidered many large lotus blos- soms, and also some smaller ones. A prominent feature of these excellent decorations are large and small fantas- tic bats, the emblem of Good Fortune. Lining of faded red, upon which may be seen many interesting designs. 30 CENES Ss 3] COAT OF MANY UMBER 10. [N 106 107 108 109 COAT IN FADED SALMON Medallions and designs, contrary to the general Chinese practice, are hand painted. In the design and medallions may be seen some of the Eight Emblems of Buddhism, and the phenix, the emblem of the Empress. Butterflies and blossoms exquisitely painted in colors lend a distinc- tion and charm to the coat. The medallions depict scenes in beautiful gardens, with small pagodas along the water- front in the lower medallions. The conventional cloud de- sign acts as a decoration for the skirt of the coat. Lining in pale watered blue. SHORT COAT IN MIDNIGHT BLUE Scattered over the field are butterflies in beautiful colors. Even the narrow band, bordering the coat, contains many small butterflies. The lining of pale. watered blue silk, contains many small designs. COAT OF MANY EMBLEMS Which are symbolical of the Hundred Antiques. These, together with numerous small butterflies, are scattered over the field with a fine disregard for conventionality of design. The dark blue band, bordering the coat, contain- ing many small cloud devices, also holds exquisitely work- ed pheenixes, the emblem of the Empress. The white cuffs show many glass-like linear embroideries, with a butterfly thrown here and there. Coat is unlined. DELICATE MAUVE COAT The simplicity of the body of this coat. offset by the gorgeous cuffs, gives it a peculiar charm. The wide cuffs, as is the case with the border and collar, show many small designs in various colors, some of which are work- ed in gold thread. Coat unlined. 32 110 111 112 113 COAT IN PALE WATERED BLUE SILK With medallions embroidered in many colors, laid be- tween a scattering of flowers, fruits, and butterflies. Pan- els depict historical scenes. The broad white cuffs por- tray many small scenes of Chinese life. The heavy border, embroidered in real gold thread, is broken by many small panels, also portraying Chinese life. Lining of a darker blue. MIDNIGHT BLUE COAT The entire surface embroidered in blue and white with large floral sprays and bats. A portion of the decoration done in the Peking stitch. Borders of white with delicate embroidery of small flowers and medallions in numerous colors. White cuffs with figure and landscape decoration minutely done in many colors, edged with a band to match the borders. Lined with vivid blue. LONG BUTTERFLY COAT Over the delicate field butterflies in soft colors, each of a different shade, flutter in irregular profusion. Broad black bands likewise covered with butterflies on the wing, and broad white cuffs again covered with butterflies. Yellow silk lining. SHORT COAT IN DEEP BLUE With little medallion scenes showing court ladies and of- ficials, and between the medallions symbols of Buddhism in gold thread; also antique bowls and butterflies in blue and white embroidery. The border of the skirt, which is of wave design, is likewise in blue and white embroidery. Broad white cuffs with little panelled scenes in various colors and gold thread. Lining of blue silk. 33 114 115 BOY’S MANDARIN COAT IN MAROON With the imperial five-clawed dragon, worked in real gold thread, among various small cloud devices. Various em- blems of Buddhism may also be seen. A few bats, em- blems of Good Fortune, flutter among the numerous other devices. Conventional Waves of Eternity border the coat, with spray effect above. Long sleeves with cuffs of hoof-design, with a narrow border bearing a suggestion of silver thread, as is likewise the case in the collar. Lining of pale blue silk. LONG COAT IN WHITE SILK Various designs scattered over the otherwise plain field, embroidered in the fine Peking stitch. Bordered with a narrow band of blue, containing garlands of lotus blossoms ; as is also the case with the collar. Lining of a delicate pink. 34 COAT OF BUTTERFLY MEDALLIONS [NUMBER 116] 116 117 118 SECOND SESSION FRIDAY EVENING, MARCH 2, 1917 AT 8:15 O’CLOCK Lots 116 to 231 COAT OF THE BUTTERFLY MEDALLIONS Extravagant many-winged butterflies among branches of fruit. Embroidered in many colors, the beauty enhanced here and there-by gold thread. Broad black collar and border bands, embroidered in blue and white. White cuffs, sustaining flowers and butterflies worked in the Pekin stitch. Pink silk lining. [See Illustration] BLUE COAT WITH A PHOENIX SQUARE Evidently the dress of a Court lady, the Phenix being the emblem of the Empress. The rest of the decoration over the main field is most dainty, showing flowers of various sorts, including plum blossoms and chrysanthemums, and butterflies in attractive designing. Broad white sleeves and border bands, showing elaborate scenes of country life in China. Gold thread enhances much of the trimming. Blue silk lining. HANDSOME BLUE COAT With rich colors of embroidery, pale blue and white, with here and there a touch of gold in the decoration, which includes the bat for Good Fortune, and several symbols of Buddhism besides the customary flowers, some of which are worked in fine Pekin stitch. Broad pale blue sleeves, beautified with little panels showing ladies in a Chinese garden. Pale blue silk lining. 37 119 120 121 122 123 DEEP BLUE COAT With pale blue and white embroidery showing elaborate butterflies, fruits and flowers. Broad white border bands likewise embroidered, and broad white cuffs with little human figures in rustic scenes. Pure silk lining. LONG BLUE COAT Showing an enormous chrysanthemum, done in the fine Pekin stitch, lotus blossoms, and fantastic bats, emblems of Good Fortune, while here and there, in a flower bud, may be seen a swastika. The broad white cuffs contain deer and other animals, fantastically designed. Pink lining. . LONG COAT IN BLUE AND BLACK An unusual combination of color. Roses, plum blossoms, and chrysanthemums, with here and there a fantastic but- terfly, are embroidered in black on a field of light blue. The bordering bands of white contain elaborate little scenes showing rustic bridges, country pagodas, and sampans. Pink silk lining. DEEP BLUE COAT With embroidery in many colors scattered over the field, showing fruits and flowers and enormous butterflies. Broad white border bands showing delightful. little rustic scenes, with suggestions of lakes, and flower gardens, and palace pagodas, with here and there a little human figure. Broad cuffs in paler blue likewise heavily embroidered. Pale blue silk lining. SCARLET COAT Buddhistic emblems, peonies, lotus blossoms, and other flowers are thrown in pretty confusion. The flowers are done in the superior Pekin stitch. The pale and faded pink lining bears evidences of age. Border and collar of white with various small devices. 38 124 125 126 127 128 LADY’S SCARLET COAT With flowers, fruits and Buddhist symbols as well as but- terflies in blue and white embroidery. Broad bands of white along the borders show little rustic scenes with ladies in tea gardens. Pale pink cuffs, likewise showing ladies beside a lake, with the suggestion of a pagoda in a garden. Pink lining. COAT IN TWO SHADES OF BLUE On the darker blue field the flowers and butterflies are embroidered in paler blue and white, making a handsome combination. Broad white cuffs show a lady beneath a pagoda, and a man crossing a bridge. Pale blue watered silk lining. LLAMA PRIEST CLOAK Of rich blue silk, bordered with Imperial yellow. Trimmed with dragon medallions and clouds in real gold thread. Lining of yellow silk. BLUE MEDALLION COAT A combination of two blues with a touch of gold thread effectively combined. Broad white cuffs show ladies in a suburban garden, the embroidery of these cuffs being in several colors. Pale blue lining. SMALL JACKET IN MIDNIGHT BLUE Over the entire field, with a suggestion of regularity, are thrown some of the Hundred Antiques, wrought in green, red, blue, and yellow. Here and there a Buddhistic em- blem may be discerned. On the front of the jacket, swas- tikas in brilliant red, for good fortune, may be seen. Con- ventional Wave of Eternity border with the customary spray. A narrow band of blue binds the whole coat. Faded pink lining. 39 129 130 131 132 133 LONG COAT IN SALMON PINK Covered with flowers, butterflies, and fruits, in blue and white. Broad red cuffs likewise heavily embroidered. Beautiful blue watered silk lining. BLUE GAUZE COAT With most dainty embroidery, including cranes flying over rocks and lake, as well as clusters of flowers and here and there a butterfly in natural colors. Broad white cuffs, showing little human figures and pagodas. Pink silk lining. PECULIAR GREEN COAT Plain silk, with decoration of peonies, Buddhistic emblems and bats, embroidered in the Pekin stitch, gorgeously shown in colors, pink being the dominating shade. Narrow white borders embroidered in colors, and deep yellow cuffs, em- broidered with the Hundred Antiques and Buddhist em- blems. Pink watered silk lining. CHILD’S COAT IN PALE YELLOW With little medallions, clusters of flowers and butterflies, in blue and white embroidery. Salmon silk lining. COAT IN DEEP BLUE Bearing bats for good fortune, floral devices, and various symbols of the Hundred Antiques. A border band and collar of white display numerous smaller floral devices. On the broad white cuffs may be seen emblems of the scholar and various other Buddhistic emblems, all nicely done in embroidery, containing many beautiful colors. Brilliant yellow silk lining. [See Illustration] 40 COAT OF EXQUISITE COLOR [NUMBER 133] 134 136 137 COAT IN DEEP BLUE Over the field various large flowers are strewn in endless profusion, some in vases, and some without. Butterflies, embroidered in many beautiful colors, fly here and there. A white band borders the coat, having thereon flowers, blos- soms, fruits, cranes, phoenixes, and here and there a pea- cock. The broad cuffs display large red flowers, some of them worked in the Pekin stitch, with apple green leaves. Lining of faded pink with Buddhistic emblems. PLAIN COAT OF DARK BLUE With very rich collar, cuffs and border bands. Scenes on the cuffs depict court life with an ancient Emperor seated upon a throne, officials and ladies about him. The broad black border bands are of gold brocade, showing strange mythical animals, little human figures, the Shou character for good fortune, antique vases and censers and other de- vices. Pale blue lining. COAT OF MEDALLION SCENES On a deep blue field irregular medallions are placed here and there, each showing a different scene in Chinese life, one including a picture of the Emperor riding upon a white horse, an attendant carrying a canopy in Imperial vellow above him. The scenes are done in many colors daintily executed. The broad cuffs of pale yellow are crowded with little human figures, and the white border bands contain scenes of the countryside with ladies in rural gardens. Lining of dark blue silk. ‘ SHORT BLUE JACKET With embroidery of many colors and gold thread, showing ancient Sages beneath little pagodas, and suggestions of country lakes with floral sprays thrown arbitrarily between them. Broad white collar and border bands embroidered with birds and flowers. Broad cuffs of white and gold, little scenes empanelled in the gold embroidery. Salmon silk lining. 42 138 139 140 14] ELABORATE BLUE COAT With medallions depicting scenes of history. Over the rest of the field are various symbols as well as vases of flowers and writing implements, representing some of the Hun- dred Antiques, which Chinese scholars love. On a deep blue field the embroidery is of ‘many colors and gold thread. The broad black border bands, embroidered mostly in gold, show also many mythological and historic scenes. Broad blue cuffs, embroidered on both sides, depict scenes in the gardens of a summer palace. Green silk lining. COAT IN BRILLIANT RED Liberally thrown over the field are flying phcnixes, the emblem of the Empress, flowers, blossoms, and fruits in many lustrous colors. The broad white cuffs display but- terflies flying amidst blossoms and buds. On the inner border of the cuff may be seen the double Chinese emblem of Happiness, as is likewise the case with the collar and border. Around the dark border of the collar a narrow band of swastika is embroidered in gold thread. Light blue lining. UNUSUAL BLUE COAT With embroidery entirely in black, shownig bats and chrysanthemums. No border trimming and no cuffs. Lin- ing in salmon. DARK BLUE COAT With various medallions depicting garden, hunting, and sporting scenes. Cherry blossoms and various fruits, worked in real gold thread, are strewn over the beautiful field. The white, clover-shaped decoration at the collar represents two men in a sampan, rowing among water lil- lies, with here and there a bat, for good fortune. A white border, binding the coat, displays rural scenes. Brilliant lemon yellow cuffs, with peonies thereon, embroidered in the accurate Pekin stitch in faded rose color. Pale blue lining with various devices thereon. 43 142 143 144 145 146 MANDARIN COAT IN GRAY Of plain silk, richly watered, showing medallions sur- rounded and divided by intricate foliations. Blue silk lining. SLATE BLUE COAT With flowers delicately embroidered in blue and white silk. Rather plain for a Chinese coat. Broad white cuffs, with butterflies and flowers in many colors. Pearl silk lining. COAT OF MANY VASES In deep blue, with embroidery dominantly in red, green and blue, showing the design of antique vases and censers woven in the Pekin stitch, with flowers, fruits and butter- flies thrown among them. Border bands of black, with blue floral embroidery. Broad cuffs of white and gold, with little scenes empanelled on the gold. Imperial yellow lining. SHORT DARK BLUE JACKET With numerous fine decorations, done in many brilliant colors, which are suggestive of the Hundred Antiques. Here and there a butterfly is discernible, likewise worked in brilliant colors. The broad white cuffs bear small rus- tic scenes containing human figures, with now and then a bat for good fortune. A band of black, with peculiarly fine scroll-like work, borders the entire jacket. Lining of light blue. COAT OF MEDALLION SCENES On a deep blue field, scenes of ancient Sages and philoso- phers are embroidered in pale blue and white with a frame- work of gold thread. Buddhist emblems are also in gold thread, the rest of the embroidery in blue and white. Black border bands, embroidered in blue, and blue embroidery in the fine Pekin stitch, represent scenes in a summer palace garden, on the broad white cuffs. Pale blue silk lining. 44 147 148 149 150 151 152 LONG WHITE COAT With butterflies and flowers embroidered in white. Black collar and border bands, embroidered in blue and white. Blue silk lining. GIRL’S COAT IN PALE BLUE With white flowers and butterflies on faded green sprigs. Pink silk lining. BRILLIANT RED COAT With peonies and other blossoms worked in the Pekin stitch, outlined with real gold thread. Here and there a butterfly may be seen fluttering among the flowers and blossoms. A border band of blue holds some Buddhistic emblems and scroll-like characters, worked in gold thread. Lining of pale blue silk. COAT OF ELABORATE VASES On a deep blue field a very rich design of flowers in elabo- rate vases are alternated with butterflies and flowers of different sorts, all highly idealized. The central vase con- tains the character of Double Happiness. Pale blue watered silk lining. VIVID BLUE COAT With bats and fruits among the flowers and butterflies, the suggestion of Good Fortune as well as the Chinese device for Cupid, indicating that this might have been a wedding garment or gift. In many brilliant colors beautifully combined. Watered silk salmon colored lining. RED SKIRT With butterfly and flower decorations, and here and there a bat. Green watered silk lining. 45 153 154 155 156 LONG COAT OF MIDNIGHT BLUE Large well executed medallions, in the fine Pekin stitch, outlined with real gold thread. Swastikas ingeniously worked into the design. Cast about the medallions are flowers, buds, and blossoms. The cuffs, in a lighter blue, show rural scenes, wherein little figures appear conspicu- ously. Pale blue silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN VIVID BLUE With conventional dragons in gold thread floating among clouds of blue and white embroidery; here and there are thrown symbols of Buddhism, which are woven in the fine Pekin stitch, and an occasional bat for Good Fortune. Horse-hoof cuffs, with broad black sleeve bands. Blue silk lining. MEDALLION COAT Showing court and historical scenes with numerous little figures in many colors and gold thread on a field of deep blue, also wild birds and floral sprays, some of them par- ticularly well traced and colored. Broad white border bands and cuffs heavily embroidered, showing peacocks and little country scenes in panels surrounded by gold thread. Pale blue silk lining. COAT IN GOLD AND BLACK With dragons in medallions above the Waves of Eternity, form the border of the skirt. Clouds and bats, like all-the rest of the embroidery, are woven in real gold thread. On a collar of paler blue, little scenes showing pagodas with flags flying are likewise woven in gold. No cuffs. Pale blue silk lining. [See Illustration ] 46 “4 + oA Sia GOLD AND BLACK COAT [NuMBER 156] 157 158 159 160 161 LADY’S COAT IN DEEP BLUE The various medallions thereon contain scenes of Chinese country life remarkably well executed; outlined in real gold thread; flowers in the medallions are woven in the fine Pekin stitch. Scattered about the field are various floral devices, with here and there a butterfly, worked in charm- ing colors. A country scene in brownish black silk is woven upon the broad white cuffs. Pale blue lining. SHORT BLUE JACKET With embroidery in many colors and gold thread, show- ing little panels containing figures, one a musician, another a flower seller, and a third a mandarin and lady. Various symbols and cloud waves thrown over the field. Broad white collar and border bands embroidered; and white cuffs on which little rural scenes are worked. Salmon silk lin- ing. COAT OF FRUITS AND FLOWERS With butterflies embroidered in blue and white on a deep blue field. Delicate colors. On the cuffs, which are of white silk, are embroidered scenes of wild fowls with in- scriptions in Chinese characters. Pale blue watered silk lining. CHILD’S JACKET IN DEEP SALMON With a dragon in gold above a pagoda, and the heads of monsters emerging from the waves which form the border. Phenix and bats as well as flowers in the embroidery. Pale blue silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN GAUZE In blue with gold dragons, and blue and white cloud de- signs and waves. Here and there a bat for Good For- tune and various Buddhist symbols. Conventional horse- hoof cuffs and broad black bands around the sleeves. Un- lined. 48 162 163 164 165 166 SCARLET COAT With blue and white flowers and butterflies, some woven in the Pekin stitch. Cuffs in Imperial yellow, with vari- ous symbols woven in several colors and some gold thread. Green silk lining. COAT IN DEEP BLUE AND GOLD With medallions surrounded by gold, showing Phoenix and peacocks in a lake beneath little pagodas, very finely worked in many colors. The Waves of Eternity along the skirt are entirely in gold thread. Broad white cuffs, em- broidered likewise with birds, flowers, and butterflies. Light blue silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN LIGHT MAROON With the usual conventional dragons, clouds, and bats, em- broidered in gold thread and many colors. Cuffs of the horse-hoof shape, with the customary black bands above them. Light blue silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN BLUE AND GOLD With symbols of Buddhism worked in the fine Peking stitch. Dragons in gold thread and clouds and wave design in blue and white silk. Horse-hoof cuffs and very long sleeves of deep blue. Light blue silk lining. FLAME COLORED COAT With an upper medallion of Buddhistic symbols and two lower ones portraying rustic scenes with pagodas. Con- ventional Waves of Eternity border with the usual cloud devices. The embroideries, worked throughout the coat in gold thread, are done in a peculiar tapestry-like stitch. Contrary to Chinese custom, there are no trimmings on the sleeves of this coat. Olive green lining. 49 167 168 169 170 171 LADY’S COAT IN DEEP BLUE With butterflies, flowers, and fruits in blue and white. Border bands of black including some gold thread in the embroidery. Cuffs of light blue with chrysanthemum, but- terflies and the Buddha’s Fingers embroidered in several colors. Pale blue silk lining. MANDARIAN ROBE OF DEEP BLUE Amid various Buddhistic emblems and cloud devices, is an Imperial five-clawed dragon. Below him two other dragons are seen crouched above the conventional Waves of Eternity, with the customary spray and cloud effects. Long sleeves with hoof-like cuffs. Lining of faded blue. MANDARIN ROBE OF DEEP BLUE Various emblems of Buddhism and cloud devices, and an Imperial five-clawed dragon. Two other dragons are seen crouched above the conventional Waves of Eternity, with the customary spray and cloud effects. Long sleeves with hoof-like cuffs. Lining of pale blue. SHORT BLUE JACKET With flowers and butterflies in many colors artistically scattered. Waves of Eternity along the lower border. Pale blue cuffs, likewise embroidered heavily in many colors. Light blue silk lining. PLUM COLORED COAT With no embroidery on the field, broad bordering bands of black decorated with many colors. White cuffs showing the Eight Famous Horses of the Emperor Mu Wang in little medallions alternating with inscriptions in Chinese characters. Lining in Imperial yellow silk. 50 172 173 174 175 176 177 MIDNIGHT BLUE COAT With embroidery in pale colors. The wave design along the border of the skirt is unusually rich. Elaborate vases of flowers form the principal decoration, with flowers and symbols scattered among them. Pale blue watered silk lining. COAT IN DEEP BLUE Symbols of the Hundred Antiques are thrown in pro- fusion over the field, with here and there a bat, worked in many colors, symbolical of good fortune. The vases, done in the admirable Peking stitch, contain a swastika, also indicative of good fortune. The broad light blue cuffs hold various flowers. The collar has a narrow border, containing a garland of flowers. Pale blue lining. SHORT BLUE JACKET -On a deep blue field continuous garlands of flowers are entwined in an all-over effect, with here and there a but- terfly thrown upon them. Lighter blue silk lining. COAT IN BLUE AND RED Field is of midnight blue, with floral and butterfly decora- tions in red. The broad cuffs, of red, have blue and white embroidery upon them. Pale blue watered silk lining. BLUE AND GOLD WAISTCOAT Of very beautiful brocade, showing little fruits and flowers most delicately woven. Yellow silk lining. PALE TAN COAT Without design, save for the flowered medallions on the field. The conventional Waves of Eternity border the coat, with the customary spray devices above. The water- ed blue cuffs contain a flower in the Peking stitch. Dark blue lining. 51 178 179 180 181 MANDARIN ROBE OF RICH BROCADE In maroon, flame color, and gold; with touches of other shades in the conventional but very fine designing. Horse- hoof cuffs with brilliant wave design on back. Yellow silk lining. ; [See Illustration | APPLE GREEN COAT With various designs watered upon the field, some in the shape of medallions and others like scrolls. A border and collar of dark blue contain peonies and other blossoms. The white cuffs show floral devices, some of them executed in the fine Peking stitch. Light blue lining. COAT OF FINE STITCHING On a deep blue ground butterflies and dragons are worked in a peculiar stitching. The water design along the border of the skirt is not of the usual convention. Broad white cuffs with little scenes of country life embroidered in blue and gold. Lighter blue silk lining. SHORT COAT IN PALE GREEN Of soft faded watered silk. No embroidery on the field. Broad collar and border bands in light maroon, with little scenes showing many ladies in a country garden, which includes a little pagoda. Broad white cuffs with rural scenes embroidered upon them. Watered salmon silk lining. MANDARIN COAT IN TURQUOISE BLUE Made of fine kus-su or tapestry, with dragons in gold thread. The bats, Buddhist symbols and wave design, and also the clouds, in various colors. Very broad horse-hoof cuffs, sustaining golden dragons among clouds. A delicate piece of coloring. Light blue silk lining. 52 ae RICH MANDARIN ROBE [NuMBER 176] 183 184 186 187 MEDALLION COAT OF DARK BLUE Beautiful medallions in green and other colors embroider- ed on the field, with here and there a bat for good fortune. The bottom of the coat holds the ever-present Waves of Eternity, while immediately above are various flowers and blossoms in beautiful array. The broad white cuffs sus- tain birds, butterflies, and finely executed blossoms and flowers. Pink lining. COAT IN FLAME COLORED BROCADE With no embroidery and no cuffs. ° Little scenes brocaded in colors form the medallions. The border of the skirt is of the water design likewise delicately brocaded. Among the other decorations are the Buddha’s Finger in yellow silk and the Phenix in blue. Green watered silk lining. HEAVY BLACK SKIRT Imposed on the bottom of the skirt, with a tapestry-like effect, are numerous dragons and other devices. The Waves of Eternity with the spray and cloud devices may also be distinguished. t COAT IN RICH BLUE BROCADE Entirely covered with little scenes of Chinese life, show- ing lakes and mountains, bridges and boats, pagodas and pavillions, and many little figures. Broad bands sustaining brocaded dragons form the cuffs. White silk lining. SHORT JACKET IN DEEP BLUE Pagodas, rural scenes, and floral devices are numerous on this field of beautiful blue. Little figures are a dominating element in the embroideries. Butterflies and bats for good fortune, are by no means lacking. A border of pale blue, almost white, binds the entire coat. Dark blue lining. 54 188 189 190 191 192 193 SHORT JACKET IN DEEP BLUE With large roses and butterflies embroidered in red, blue and white. Pale blue cuffs, heavily embroidered with the same design. Broad brocaded border bands of maroon. Pale blue silk lining. COAT OF MANY VASES On dark blue ground, ancient flower pots, which the Chi- neses love to depict, are scattered in different shapes and designs and woven in many colors. No border trimming or cuffs. Pale blue silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN RICH BROWN With dragons in gold and clouds, and flaming sphere and Buddhistic devices, bats and waves, in embroidery of blue, white and red. Horse-hoof cuffs and broad sleeve bands in deep brown. Blue silk lining. JACKET IN DEEP BLUE The small medallions illustrate scenes in rural China, while, scattered about the field are figures symbolical of the Hundred Antiques. Buddhistic emblems may also be observed. The skirt of the coat has the conventional wave design. The broad white cuffs bear out the medal- lion design, also depicting scenes in rural China, with here and there a bridge or two and a pagoda. The black band bordering the coat and collar sustains a garland of peonies. Blue lining. CHILD’S COAT IN RED Covered with flowers and fruits, with embroidery of blue and white, and touches of gold thread. Blue silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN DEEP BLUE GAUZE With decorations of medallions showing bats and fruits, and a large Happiness character in gold thread. Unlined. 55 194 195 196 197 198 COAT IN BLUE With fantastic butterflies, fruits and flowers in paler blue and white embroidery. Touched here and there with gold thread. Broad cuffs of pale blue, with antique vessels, bats and flowers embroidered in gold and blue. Yellow silk lining. BRILLIANT SCARLET COAT With many sorts of flowers and fruits and an occasional butterfly embroidered in many colors. Broad black collar and border bands. Broad Imperial yellow cuffs with flow- ers and fruits embroidered in colors and gold thread. Blue silk lining. ELABORATE COAT IN GREEN AND BLUE The whole field covered with an embroidered swastika screen, upon which are thrown medallions showing antique vases and censers, as well as symbols of the scholar, imple- ments for paintings and writing, and books. Much of the embroidery is in very fine Peking stitch, outlined with real gold thread. Blue silk lining. [See Illustration ] LONG SCARLET ROBE Of watered silk, with no embroidery over the field. Large horse-hoof cuffs, collar and sleeve bands with Phoenix and bats embroidered among the clouds. Blue silk lining. COAT OF WATERED RED SILK Easily discernible on the plain red field are many floral designs, among them being beautiful lotus flowers. The apple green and dark blue cuffs bear butterflies in Imperial yellow, flowers in white, blue and red, with one chrysanthe-- mum executed in the fine Peking stitch. Apple green lining. 56 ELABORATE GREEN AND BLUE COAT [NuMBER 196] 199 200 202 203 204 205 MEDALLION COAT IN SCARLET With delicate floral sprays embroidered in many colors. Brocaded black bordered bands. Cuffs in Imperial yel- low, likewise heavily embroidered. Light olive watered silk lining. COAT IN VERY DEEP BLUE Profusely covered with butterflies and flowers in brilliant colors. Black border bands embroidered in blue and white. No cuffs. Yellow silk lining. BLUE COAT WITH RICH COLORS Embroidered flowers and butterfly devices, with artistic effect. A white brocade band borders the coat. No cuffs. Blue watered silk lining. COAT IN APPLE GREEN Covered with decorations in blue, white, red and yellow. No border bands. Imperial yellow cuffs likewise heavily embroidered. Pink silk lining. LONG COAT IN DEEP BLUE With beautiful flowers and fantastic butterflies in brilliant colors. No border bands or cuffs. Blue silk lining. RED MANDARIN ROBE With dragons in real gold thread, and symbols, clouds and bats in various colors of embroidery. Green collar and pink silk lining. LIGHT BLUE COAT Covered with embroidery in brilliant colors and of elabo- rate design. White border bands with embroidery of floral devices. No cuffs. Light blue lining. 58 206 207 208 209 210 BLUE COAT WITH BUDDHIST EMBLEMS Embroidered on the field are some of the Hundred An- tiques, quite a few of which are done in the Peking stitch. Among the flowers on the dark blue border, binding the coat, may be seen swastikas, indicative of good fortune. The cuffs are of a brilliant hue, likewise adorned with the splendid Peking stitch. Pink lining. COAT IN BRICK RED With embroidery in faint colors showing peaches, pome- granates and peonies. Broad border bands of white with birds and trees above rockeries. Green cuffs heavily em- broidered. Pink silk lining. BUTTERFLY AND PEONY COAT On a deep blue ground extravgent butterflies are embroid- ered in the fine Peking stitch; peonies and other flowers in the straight stitch. No border bands or cuffs. Pale blue silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN BLUE The Imperial five-clawed dragon is shown in the heavens among cloud devices. Scattered here and there are various emblems of Buddhism, while below are two minor dragons above conventional waves, with the usual cloud and spray devices. All of the above is embroidered in real gold thread. Long sleeves in the hoof design. Lining of silk, of Imperial yellow. BRILLIANT COAT IN LIGHT BLUE With elaborate vases of flowers, fruits, and butterflies in many colors. Broad cuffs of deep red show fabulous animals and birds, finely woven in the Peking stitch. Pink silk lining. 59 211 212 213 214 215 COAT OF THE GOLD SCREEN On a field of deep blue an irregular screen or lattice work is thrown in gold embroidery, on top of which me- dallions, in the fine Peking stitch, are richly designed, showing flowers in elaborate vessels. Border bands of black, embroidered correspondingly. Light blue cuffs with many colors. Yellow silk lining. [See Illustration ] COAT OF BLUE AND MANY COLORS Much of the elaborate embroidery is in the knotted Peking stitch showing fantastic butterflies, huge flowers and fruits. Broad black border bands likewise embroidered. Pale blue cuffs showing antique vases of flowers and fruits. Light blue lining. DARK BLUE COAT OF FLORAL DEVICES Scattered in great profusion over the field are various floral sprays. The conventional wave design, with the customary spray and clouds, form the border of the skirt. No cuffs. Blue lining. OLIVE GREEN COAT Thrown in endless variety over the field are numerous floral devices. Suggestions of the Hundred Antiques may also be seen. The narrow faded orange band, bind- ing the border and collar, carry the various Buddhist sym- bols. Bright pink lining. No cuffs. ORANGE COLORED COAT Bordered with broad black bands heavily embroidered with flowers and butterflies in many colors and gold thread. Broad blue cuffs showing palace ladies in a country garden. Green watered silk lining. GO EN HE GOLD SCRE COAT OF T 211) NUMBER [ 216 217 218 219 220 GOLD AND RED BROCADE COAT A particularly beautiful piece of old brocade, notable for its designing as well as its color. Dragons following the flaming sphere over the Waves of Eternity, and double dragons gazing at a conventional lotus blossom form the medallions. Butterflies and flowers are scattered over the field. White cuffs embroidered in blue and gold in Peking stitch. Light blue silk lining. SHORT JACKET IN DEEP BLUE With flower and butterflies embroidered in many colors. Black brocaded border bands. Light blue silk lining. COAT IN BLUE AND WHITE With a dainty little scene along the lower border showing cranes in the forest. Cranes fly among the clouds over the field. No border bands or cuffs. Faded green lining. RED COAT OF WATERED SILK With brilliant medallions, floral sprays, butterflies and fruits embroidered in colors and gold thread. Blue and white border base representing the Waves of Eternity. Cuffs of pale blue bordered with black, with little scenes depicted on them, showing ladies beside a country lake. Yellow silk lining. LONG COAT IN MIDNIGHT BLUE Flowers and butterflies embroidered in many colors. Cuffs of Imperial yellow, sustaining fruits, blossoms, flowers worked in the Peking stitch, and a case of books, one of the emblems of the scholar. Pale blue watered silk lin- ing. The collar of the coat carries numerous small Pheenixes, the emblem of the Empress. A black band, likewise adorned, borders the coat. 62 221 222 223 224 MEDALLION COAT IN DEEP BLUE Scenes of country life showing scholars and ladies be- neath beautiful arbors and pagodas. Jars of flowers are thrown over the rest of the field. Brocaded border bands of white carry many symbols. No cuffs. Light blue water- ed silk lining. COAT OF GOLD MEDALLIONS On a deep slate blue, floral medallions trimmed and bor- dered with gold, are thrown at regular intervals. Bud- dhist symbols in gold and flowers in brilliant colors. Black embroidered bands and broad white cuffs with brilliant em- broidery. Pale blue silk lining. VIVID SCARLET COAT Many flowers and blossoms, some of them in the Peking stitch, are scattered in pleasing array. A black band, sup- porting various floral devices and scroll-like emblems, in real gold thread, bind the coat. The green cuffs are like- wise embellished. Lining of Imperial yellow in silk. SHORT JACKET IN DEEP BLUE With vases of flowers and Waves of Eternity woven in brilliant colors. Broad white cuffs show peacocks and butterflies. Pale blue watered silk lining. BRILLIANT COAT IN DEEP BLUE With rich colors in conventional embroidery. The fan- tastic butterflies are woven in the knotted Peking stitch, as are also the blossoms thrown upon the border waves. Broad white cuffs, with scenes showing mandarins in a country garden, are embroidered in colors and gold thread. Light blue silk lining. 63 226 227 229 MANDARIN ROBE IN RED GAUZE With flower medallions in silk colors and the happiness character in gold. Broad collar and cuffs likewise sus- taining the happiness character in gold. Cuffs of the horse-hoof shape. “Unlined. LLAMA PRIEST ROBE Olive green entirely covered with symbols. The central figure at the back is a tall, many-roofed pagoda flank- ed by dragons and surrounded by spheres. Chinese char- acters, human figures, birds, butterflies and bats, Buddhist symbols, and many other devices upon it. Brick red sleeves, and border trimmed with gold. Lining of yellow silk. BUDDHIST PRIEST’S ROBE curren Lune Rich brown. The body of the coat of brocaded silk, in the conventional cloud design. The collar, border bands, and squares of rich old kus-su, on a deep blue field, showing dragons in gold, floating among clouds above the Waves of Eternity. The front panels of the coat show lotus blossoms on a pale yellow, growing from a natural lake, the lotus being the symbol of Buddhism. Above the flowers a bird is flying. The cloak is sleeveless. Green silk collar. Pearl colored silk lining. LLAMA HIGH PRIEST’S ROBE IN BRICK RED CHIEN LYNG Mate to foregoing, but of even finer tapestry. The base of the collar, border and square is of gold thread. The whole field is covered with kus-su. The front border pan- els show Phoenixes and fruit on a field of gold. [See Illustration | GE S ROBE NUMBER 229] 7 HIGH PRIEST [ 230 SHORT COAT IN DEEP BLUE 231 With flowers and butterflies in many colors brilliantly drawn and executed. Broad black border bands. Imperial yellow cuffs embroidered with flowers in brilliant colors. Blue silk lining. BUDDHIST PRIEST’S ROBE IN IMPERIAL YEL- LOW cHIEN LUNG | i. The body of. the coat: brocaded in silk in the conventional cloud design. The collar, border bands, and squares, of rich old kus-su on a deep blue field; showing the dragons in gold thread floating, among. conventional clouds above the Waves of Eternity. Lotus panels on the front, on a blue field, are noteworthy as kus-su tapestry pictures. 66 BLUE AND GOLD COAT [NUMBER 233] 232 233 234 THIRD SESSION SATURDAY AFTERNOON, MARCH 3, 1917 AT 2:30 O°CLOCK Lots 232 to 365 HEAVILY EMBROIDERED COAT. Dark blue silk, with medallions and floral sprays in blues and white, the medallions sustaining a large chrysanthe- mum in the Pekin stitch, surrounded by prunus blossoms. On, the back and front are squares containing the Phenix, the emblem of the Empress, flying above the Waves of Eternity. Border of black, with small decorations in blue. Light blue cuffs, minutely embroidered with figures in col- ors. Lined with green silk. “RARE COAT IN BLUE AND GOLD cuten tuNG Of notable design and fine handiwork. The medallions being a combination of foliate archaic dragons agape at shou characters and surrounded by lotus blossoms; inset at intervals with most delicate suggestions of the precious stone coloring, as, for instance, in the case of the dragon’s eyes. A graceful lotus scroll entwines among the medal- lions. Waves of Eternity design along the border of skirt. Pale blue silk lining, of delicate watered design. [See Illustration ] SCARLET COAT Medallion and floral spray decoration in many colors ter- minating in the Waves of Eternity along the border of the skirt. Heavily embroidered, partly in the Pekin stitch. Narrow black bands, with blue embroidery round the collar and front. Light yellow silk lining. 69 235 236 237 238 239 DARK BLUE COAT Medallion decoration of figures surrounded by trees and flowers, between which are scattered pots of flowers and floral sprays. Borders of white, embroidered with flowers and butterflies outlined with gold thread. White cuffs, decorated with figures in landscapes, all finely done in the ‘Pekin stitch. Light brown silk lining. LIGHT BLUE MANDARIN ROBE The entire surface closely embroidered with clouds in blue and white, among which are floating large Imperial Dra- gons in gold thread. Medallions sustain the emblem of happiness, bats, Buddhistic symbols, and the sacred sphere; the border of the skirt heavily embroidered with the Waves of Eternity. Large horse-hoof cuffs, heavily embroidered with enormous peonies and leaves in blue and pink. Light blue silk lining. DARK BLUE COAT At the front and back a square containing bats and peonies done in Pekin stitch, the rest of the design being Buddhist emblems and sprays of flowers done in numerous colors. Borders of white, embroidered in colors and deep blue cuffs beautifully decorated. Light blue silk lining. FLAME COLORED COAT Over the entire ground are scattered many birds and flow- ers. At the front and back a square containing the Phe- nix flying over the Waves of Eternity. The border ter- minates in a landscape of trees and flowers over which large Pheenixes are flying. Embroidered in colors on a watered silk. Pink watered silk lining. DEEP BLUE COAT The entire ground brilliantly embroidered with flowers in vases. No borders or cuffs. Light blue silk lining. 70 240 241 212 243 244 COAT WITH BUTTERFLIES AND FLOWERS Embroidered in blue and white, the elaborate butterflies being done in the seed stitch. Broad blue cuffs; embroid- ered in a beautiful combination of colors. Black collar, with blue and white embroidery. Yellow silk lining. DEEP ORANGE COAT Embroidered with large peonies in seed stitch, and many other flowers and butterflies in various shades. Light green cuffs, likewise embroidered in colors. Brilliant blue silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN BROWN Dragons in gold thread. Symbols beautifully woven in the Pekin stitch. The waves and cloud design in blue and white, in the long stitch. Cuffs of horse-hoof shape. Broad black sleeve bands. Blue silk lining. MEDALLION COAT IN DEEP BLUE With unusually interesting medallions, in the center of which are woven little rustic scenes, apparently palace ladies in summer gardens. The outer frame of the me- dallion is formed of delicately traced flowers and fruits in vessels of the Hundred Antiques. Along the wave de- sign at the border of the skirt are little dragon medallions in gold thread. White cuffs, with rustic scenes, showing fisherman and a countryman carrying wood. Watered blue silk lining. : PALE BLUE SKIRT With beautiful panels of flowers, fruits, butterflies, and Buddhist symbols, in brilliant combinations of color. Broad black border band, also embroidered. Pale pink watered silk lining. 71. 245 246 247 248 249 RICH BLUE MANDARIN ROBE With dragons in gold, various Buddhist symbols in colors, and the clouds and wave effect in blue and white, with touches of red. Broad horse-hoof cuffs with black sleeve bands. Blue silk lining. LONG RED COAT OF FLOWERS With bats and butterflies. Broad black border bands, em- broidered with butterflies. White cuffs, also heavily dec- orated. Blue watered silk lining. LLAMA PRIEST’S ROBE IN BLUE Covered with mysterious designs and symbols, giving a suggestion of the intricacies of this little understood re- ligion. The central figure on the back is a many-roofed pagoda, flanked by dragons in gold thread and surrounded by a chain of spheres. There are medallions with human figures in them, and others containing birds, and over the field, among conventional cloud designs, are scattered Chi- nese characters as well as decorative devices, and numer- ous unknown symbols. Broad cuffs and border bands, heavily embroidered with symbols, in gold thread on a field of carmine. Yellow silk collar and lining. BLUE AND GOLD COAT An unusual design and color combination. On a field of deep blue, chrysanthemums in gold alternate with others in pale blue and white; among them float butterflies with tails of gold thread, the rest of the elaborate creatures being in blue and white embroidery. Broad black border bands, embroidered with flowers and butterflies. Lined with light blue silk. LONG KUSSU COAT Large floral and butterfly medallions on a field of deep blue, the water design forming the skirt border and cuffs. The fine design of the coat shows inside as well as outside. No lining. 72 250 251 252 254 255 COAT WITH A PLAIN FIELD OF DARK BLUE Bordered with broad brocaded bands, showing country pal- aces, pagodas, temples, bridges, and sampans, with here and there a little human figure. Broad white cuffs carry mythical animals, flowers and antique vessels in rich col- ors and gold thread. No lining. PALE GREEN TAPESTRY COAT The design being so fine that it shows inside as well as out, the coat being unlined. Very broad white tapestry cuffs and corresponding collar and border bands. The theme is of flowers and butterflies in pale colors, trimmed with touches of black and gold thread. Unlined. RED AND GOLD DRAGON COAT On a field of scarlet very large dragons in gold thread float among the clouds, with here and there a brilliant flower or a bat, for good fortune, woven in colors. The border of the skirt is of the conventional water design. Broad black collar and cuff bands, and also broad white cuffs with little panel scenes, the principal ones containing boys at play. Blue silk lining. CHILD’S SKIRT AND COAT IN PALE GREEN With embroidered flowers in colors. Pink silk lining. INFANT’S COAT IN NILE GREEN With flowers in pink and blue. Pink silk lining. DEEP BLUE COAT, BRILLIANT MEDALLIONS A beautiful blending of circles in elaborate colors on a deep blue field, with here and there a small flower or but- terfly. Fine skirt border of the water design, and also broad black border bands showing squirrels among nuts. Blue silk lining. . 73 256 257 259 260 SCARLET COAT WITH MANY COLORS The principal features of the decoration being in the fine Pekin stitching. The embroidery is touched here and there with gold thread. Broad black border bands, with blue and white embroidery, and broad cuffs of orange, with green and gold decorations, showing the suggestion of scenes. Lining of yellow silk. COAT IN BLACK AND GOLD An unusual coat with medallions and flowers in colors. On a screen of gold thread the brilliant embroidery is woven in many colors. Broad blue cuffs show a monkey among fruit, above deer at the base of the scene. Black silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN FADED BROWN With dragons in gold thread floating among clouds of blue and white. Flaming spheres and bats in red, and here and there a Buddhist symbol. The lower border is'of the con- ventional water design. Cuffs of the horse-hoof shape. Blue silk lining. VERY OLD BLUE COAT With dragon medallions in tarnished gold thread. Dra- gons emerging from the waves at the base. Over the field, bats. for good fortune, float at intervals. Birds among fruits are embroidered in panelling of gold on the light blue cuffs. Pearl colored silk lining. RARE BLUE AND GOLD COAT cuiENn Lune In rich brocade. The gold being of two shades, the de- signing is particularly noticeable. Among temple lamps and canopies lotus sprays are entwined with remarkable grace. The border of the skirt is woven in the water de- sign, which changes at the top and becomes a scene of deer and cranes beside rockeries. Delicate light blue watered silk lining, of peculiarly Chinese design. [See Illustration | U4 COAT OF THE TEMPLE LAMPS [NUMBER 260] 261 RICH COAT IN GOLD AND BLUE BROCADE With dragons, water design, and Buddhist symbols, and here and there a flower. A rich piece of coloring. Lined with salmon colored silk. 262 SMALL JACKET IN DEEP BLUE With clusters of grapes, flowers, blossoms, and here and there a butterfly beautifully embroidered on a plain field of the deepest blue. A border and collar of lighter blue likewise embroidered. Blue silk lining. 263 BROCADED COAT IN PALE TAN With dragon, phenix, and water design in medallions and squares. In charming pale colors. Showing a deer and a phenix as well as dragons. With butterflies and sprays of flowers scattered over the field. Broad black border, collar, and bands. White cuffs, heavily embroidered in brilliant colors. Yellow silk lining. 264 OLD MILITARY COSTUME sarty cHING Of heavy brocaded green and brown, studded with metal discs. Dragon medallion on back and front in an unusu- ally delicate design in gold thread. Pale blue silk lining. 265 BLUE COAT WITH DELICATE FLOWERS A long coat of deep blue, sprayed with rich colors of em- broidery. Broad collar and border bands, embroidered in blue and white, with here and there a butterfly in brilliant ‘colors. Pale blue watered silk.lining. 266 LADY’S WAISTCOAT cuien LuNG In blue and gold, with touches of color, showing butterfly and fruit medallions and wave design in gold thread. An unusual feature in the design is the toads coming out of shells. Fine tracery. Lining in green silk. 76 267 268 269 FINE MANDARIN ROBE cuHIeN LUNG In deep blue, with elaborate decorations in faded colors. The huge medallions of butterflies, fruits, and flowers are an almost solid mass of embroidery, which is likewise the case with the broad cuffs and heavy lower border. Light blue silk lining. BROCADED COAT IN RED AND GOLD Little scenes in the medallions and squares delicately wov- en. The water design along the base. No collar or sleeves. Beautiful old watered silk lining in salmon. BLUE AND WHITE COAT The ground color being deep blue, the embroidery brilliant in pale blue and white silk. Highly developed foliations, and a dainty combination of color; pale blue cuffs, heavily embroidered with baskets of fruit, chryanthemums, and butterflies. Collar and border bands of black, embroidered with blue and white. Blue silk lining. PALE GREEN MANDARIN ROBE cuien tune With large rich medallions, showing roses, chrysanthemums and plum blossoms, with bats, for good fortune. Over the wave design clusters of chrysanthemums are thrown, with here and there a bat, making the border particularly rich. Broad horse-hoof black cuffs, with a mass of embroidery. Pale pink lining. RICHLY EMBROIDERED BLUE COAT Covered with brilliant colors. Of very fine designing. Collar and border bands containing little scenes of the countryside, with many human figures. Broad white cuffs, showing flowers and a frogemerging from a shell. Light blue silk lining. 7 272 273 274 275 276 COAT IN PALE SALMON With chrysanthemum sprays of highly artistic design. Broad black bands, richly embroidered in a corresponding manner, and an outer brocaded band of a swastika fret in gold and pale blue. Broad white cuffs, beautifully em- broidered. Slate blue lining. RICH COAT IN PALE SALMON With design of delicate lillies and berries. An unusual piece of drawing and execution. Collar, cuffs, and bor- der bands in deep black, with corresponding design em- broidered with much gold thread. White cuffs, beautifully embroidered. Light blue silk lining. RARE BLUE AND GOLD COAT cuien LuNe With brilliant lotus foliations entwining amongst the me- dallions, which contain canopied flower baskets. Rich border of the wave design, heavily embroidered in gold thread. Broad cuffs of pale blue, profusely embroidered in colors. Old blue silk lining. SHORT BLUE JACKET With profusion of embroidery. Antique vases and pots of flowers, and wave design in many colors. Broad white cuffs, showing little rural scenes. Light blue silk lining. COAT OF MANY CHILDREN Over a rich blue field numerous children are scattered, playing with toys, wading in lotus swamps, and carrying various objects. There are suggestions of hills and lakes. In one place an old sage rides a mythical animal. Broad collar, cuffs and border bands, embroidered with little scenes of country life in China. Pink silk lining. 78 277 278 279 280 281 282 PALE GREEN MANDARIN ROBE CHIEN LUNG Medallions bearing the shou character, for good fortune, embroidered in, real gold thread, with here and there a butterfly in brilliant colors flying above the border design of waves. The broad horse-hoof cuffs, as is the case with the collar, are heavily embroidered, some of the floral pieces being in the seed stitch. Pink lining. DELICATELY EMBROIDERED BLUE COAT With dainty sprays of flowers, birds and bats in pale col- ors. No cuffs or collar. Blue silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN DEEP BLUE With dragons in gold, various Buddhist symbols in colors, and the cloud and wave effect in blue and white, with touches of red. Broad horse-hoof cuffs with black sleeve bands. Blue silk lining. HEAVILY EMBROIDERED BLUE COAT With flowers, fruits, and butterflies in bright colors. A pheenix and cloud design embroidered on the black collar and border bands. chrysanthemums. LONG SCARLET ROBE With huge floral and butterfly medallion and water design along the skirt. CHAR CHING Pale blue cuffs with embroidered Blue silk lining. Broad horse-hoof cuffs, heavily embroid- ered. Black collar and arm band also rich with embroid- ery. Blue silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE OF RICH BROCADE cuien Lune A combination of gold and brown with touches of faded Of unusual beauty and tone. Pearl colored silk lining. colors. cuffs. mo ‘ 9 Broad horse-hoof 283 284 285 286 287 288 DEEP BLUE COAT WITH RARE EMBROIDERY Being entirely in the Pekin stitch. Ancient vases of flow- ers placed upon a rockery, with trees growing beside them, here and there a butterfly. A delicate line of white bro- cade forms the border. Broad cuffs of pale blue, likewise heavily embroidered with the seed stitch. An outer border band of black on collar and cuffs also embroidered. Light blue watered silk lining. RED SKIRT BROCADED WITH DRAGONS Heavily pleated and trimmed with black. Brocade is in gold thread and faint colors. Unlined. LIGHT BLUE COAT With a profusion of flowers and butterflies in brilliant colors of embroidery. Broad black collar and border band with butterflies in many colors. White cuffs, showing gold- fish as well as flowers and butterflies. Pink silk lining. SCARLET COAT With embroidery in blue and white, showing flowers and fruits. No cuffs. Blue watered silk lining. LADY’S SHORT COAT IN DEEP BLUE With beautiful medallions, sprays of flowers and butter- flies in many colors, enhanced with gold thread. Black collar and border bands, heavily brocaded in colors, show- ing flowers and bats for good fortune. Not lined. RARE MANDARIN ROBE cuien LuNG Of kus-su, in gold and blue, the entire field being covered with conventional dragon designs. Horse-hoof cuffs and broad sleeve bands of rich blue. Yellow silk lining. 80 289 290 291 292 293 294 BOY’S COAT IN RED With phenix medallions and water design in brilliant col- ors. Blue silk lining. COAT WITH PHOENIX SQUARE Over a deep blue field the embroidery is mostly in paler blue and white, but there is a square on front and back containing a phoenix rising from the waves, embroidered in many colors. Pale amber cuffs show little country scenes with a lady in a garden and a man crossing a bridge. Light blue lining. COAT IN PALE BLUE With flowers and butterflies in similar pale colors. Cuffs and border bands of white, showing little scenes of the countryside with ladies at various occupations. Birds and butterflies on floral branches on the cuffs. Pink silk lining. COAT IN BLUE AND IMPERIAL YELLOW The embroidery being of pale blue and white on a field of very deep blue. Cuffs and border bands of yellow, heavily embroidered with flowers and butterflies. Light blue watered silk lining. RED DRAGON COAT With butterflies and flowers and a border of the wave de- sign, in blue and white. Dragons in gold thread set in medallions. Green cuffs, heavily embroidered. Blue watered silk lining. THE YELLOW JACKET Little girl’s jacket in imperial yellow, with four medal- lions in brilliant colors showing flowers in the Pekin stitch. Light blue silk lining. 81 295 296 297 298 299 MANDARIN ROBE IN BLUE Covered with embroidery in gold thread, with Buddhist devices as well as the dragons floating among the clouds, and the wave effect along the skirt. Horse-hoof cuffs and broad sleeve bands of rich maroon. Light blue silk lining. [See Illustration] MANDARIN ROBE In green kus-su. Of conventional designs, showing dra- gons floating among clouds above the Waves of Eternity. With many symbols of Buddhism in colors and gold thread. Horse-hoof cuffs likewise showing several emblems. Black collar and sleeve bands with similar designs. Imperial yellow watered silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN BLUE AND GOLD The dragons being woven in gold thread, the symbols and bats, the spheres and the water design being touched with white, but woven generally in blue silk. Cuffs of horse- hoof shape, with broad black sleeve bands. Blue silk lining. COAT IN DARK BLUE WITH BRILLIANT COLORS Large fantastic butterflies finely woven in the seed stitch. Broad yellow cuffs, showing little scenes of Chinese coun- try life. Green silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE OF FADED BROWN cuien tune Heavily and brilliantly embroidered. Huge medallions of fruits and flowers contain the shou character in gold thread. Butterflies alternate between the medallions. Very broad wave design sustaining emblems of Buddhism. Horse- hoof cuffs in black, richly embroidered. Blue silk lining. 82 BLUE MANDARIN ROBE [NUMBER 295] 300 301 302 303 304 RED COAT WITH BRILLIANT EMBROIDERY Flowers, fruits, and butterflies in many colors. Black col- lar and border bands, likewise embroidered. Blue cuffs, depicting little scenes in Chinese country life. Blue silk lining. BLUE AND WHITE COAT The embroidery being in two shades of blue and white on a field of deep blue. Broad black collar and border bands, with little blossoms set upon an irregular lattice work of gold thread. White cuffs, richly embroidered in many colors with flowers and bats, the latter being the symbol of good fortune. Blue silk lining. LONG SCARLET COAT Embroidered in colors, the butterflies and the flowers of the main figure being in the seed stitch. Black collar and border bands show flowers and butterflies in blue and white. Broad white cuffs with rich embroideries, one fea- ture being the double happiness character. Yellow silk lining. COAT OF MANY FLOWERS Dark blue ground, over which are scattered flowers in pots and on sprays, embroidered in vivid shades. Light blue bands in colors; and yellow cuffs, embroidered to corre- spond with the body of the coat. Light blue lining. BLUE MEDALLION COAT On a deep blue field medallions in pale blue and white with numerous flowers of different sorts. The wave design along the border is in the same colors and sustains symbols of Buddhism as well as the bat for good fortune. A rich embossed design, showing an insect on a spray of wild flowers on the broad white cuffs. Light blue watered silk lining. St 305 306 307 308 309 BLUE COAT WITH BRILLIANT EMBROIDERY Flowers and butterflies being of unusually bright colors. Broad cuffs of pale blue, with antique vases and flowers. Border bands embroidered with some gold thread. Blue silk lining. BLUE COAT WITH DESIGNS OF LIGHTER BLUE Broad orange colored sleeves, showing various antique pots and flowers, some of them very finely woven in the Pekin stitch. A gold band forms the border of the base. Blue silk lining. . COAT OF THE PHOENIX SQUARE In deep blue, brocaded with gold thread and pale colors. With dragon medallions and phenix squares, the symbols respectively of the Emperor and Empress. Conventional wave border, with deer and birds as in a scene above it. On the white cuffs are little panelled scenes showing but- terflies, birds, and flowers, set into a regular pattern in gold thread. Slate blue silk lining. COAT OF MANY VASES On a field of deep blue, medallions containing bowls of fruit and several Buddhist symbols, with vases of flowers here and there over the field. Brilliant wave design over the border of the skirt. White collar and border bands embroidered with gold thread and many colors. Scenes of mandarins and ladies in summer gardens are shown on the white cuffs. Blue silk lining. COAT IN DARK BLUE With flowers and butterflies in delicate faded colors. Rich red. cuffs, embroidered in blue and white. Delicate border bands of black and gold. Salmon lining of watered silk. 85 310 311 312 313 314 FLOWERED COAT IN DEEP BLUE With extravagant butterflies in light hues of embroidery. Broad yellow cuffs sustaining many colors. No collar or border bands. Rich blue silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN RICH BROCADE cuiEen Lune A brown field with dragons in gold, the clouds, waves and other designs in delicate shades, very finely woven. A tracery of green silk threads the whole design. Horse- hoof cuffs with broad black sleeve bands. Rich orange colored lining, with Buddhist emblems watered upon it. Of thick heavy quality. [See Illustration | NOTABLE LLAMA PRIEST’S ROBE cuilen LuNG Of rich scarlet, covered with dragon decorations carefully worked out in gold. The body texture of the coat is bro- caded with clouds, carrying out the Chinese idea of the dragon being a creature of heavens. Broad borders of rich blue carry dragons of different shapes separated from each other by lotus blossoms, the emblem of Buddhism, worked out in gold thread. : COAT IN MIDNIGHT BLUE Showing birds and flowers, some of them in the fine Pekin stitch, and fantastic butterflies embroidered in many gor- geous colors. The border of the skirt displays the wave design in blue and white with here and there a flower. The pale blue cuffs sustain butterflies, flowers, and green leaves. No collar. Blue silk lining. DARK BLUE COAT Large blossoms in red embroidered in the Pekin stitch. Brilliant butterflies and small flowers. Broad black collar and border bands, embroidered with blue and white. Pale blue silk lining. 86 BROCADED MANDARIN ROBE [NuMBER 311] 315 316 317 318 319 LONG BLUE COAT With brilliant flowers and butterflies embroidered on the field. Broad collar and border bands profusely covered with flowers and fruits, with some gold thread in the de- sign. The front panel shows dragon flies and butterflies fluttering among flowers. White cuffs heavily embroidered. Blue silk lining. COAT OF THE PHOENIX SQUARE In brocade of rich colors. ‘The golden dragons appear in medallions, the phenix, symbol of the Empress, displayed on the front and back of the coat. The water design, over which large blossoms are thrown, forms the border of the skirt. Cuffs of white and gold, the phoenix and dragon being embroidered upon them. Light blue lining of rich watered silk. MANDARIN ROBE IN FADED BROWN Among various cloud devices. embroidered in brilliant col- ors, dragons float above a border band of waves, executed in blue and white. Broad black horse-hoof cuffs adorn the robe. Lining of blue. COAT OF BRILLIANT COLORS Embroidered on a deep blue base. Yellow cuffs of very fine embroidery in the Pekin seed stitch. Old blue watered silk lining. LONG COAT IN DARK BLUE A square holds a phenix, the emblem of the Empress, with a bat here and there for good fortune. The medallions show scenes in woodland China. The border is likewise adorned. Broad white cuffs depict scenes with human fig- ures and pagodas. Lining of light blue. 88 320 321 322 323 324 325 BLUE COAT WITH DELICATE EMBROIDERY Flowers and butterflies and clusters of grapes in many colors. White embroidered cuffs, with a suggestion of scenes. Blue silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN PALE GREEN With large but delicate medallions and a broad heavy water band with bats flying over the waves. All: the col- ors having faded, the tone of the coat is now very rich. Heavily. embroidered black collar and horse-hoof cuffs. Pink lining. BUTTERFLY COAT IN DEEP BLUE With broad collar and border bands carrying the Hundred Antiques and various symbols. Pale yellow cuffs, embroid- ered with flowers and butterflies, part of which is in the Pekin stitch. Blue silk lining. PALE BLUE COAT Of beautiful watered silk, brilliantly embroidered with many colors. Black collar and border bands, with gold and blue embroidery. Yellow cuffs showing vases of flow- ers, surmounted by a white band, containing squirrels among fruit. Pink silk lining. LONG PALE BLUE ROBE Covered with sprays of flowers. Broad black collar and sleeve bands, and broad white cuffs, embroidered with but- terflies and flowers of many colors. Pink silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN RICH BLUE BROCADE With dragons in gold and the cloud and wave design in faded colors, giving a very beautiful effect. Broad black cuffs of the hoof design, with brocade of corresponding character. Wide black sleeve bands. Lining of imperial yellow. : 89 326 327 328 329 330 COAT OF MEDALLION SCENES Each circle forming a little picture in itself, showing cranes among flowers in the forest. The Waves of Eter- nity form the border of the skirt. No collar or cuffs. Blue silk lining. SHORT JACKET IN PALE BLUE Covered with butterflies fluttering in every direction. Black collar and border bands, with embroidery in blue and white. Yellow embroidered cuffs. Pink silk lining. DEEP BLUE COAT WITH ELABORATE EM- BROIDERY In the fine Pekin seed stitch. Little vases of flowers and swastikas thrown over the border wave design. Flowers and butterflies scattered in beautiful shades of color. Pale blue cuffs, with a profusion of embroidery. No collar or border band. Lining of another shade of blue silk. MANDARIN ROBE IN BLUE AND GOLD Of very rich tone. The designs conventional, although the drawing is unusually fine. Heavenly dogs appear among the bats and other symbols that float with the dragons in the clouds. Over the border wave design a flower is here and there thrown. MHorse-hoof cuffs in gold and silver thread. Pale yellow silk lining. COAT IN LIGHT RED With hand painted peonies in profusion. The border and collar of white contain many curious characters outlined with real gold thread, some of them bearing a swastika. Lining of light blue silk. , [See Illustration] 90 HAND PAINTED COAT [NuMBER 330] 331 332 333 334 335 336 DEEP BLUE COAT With much fine Pekin stitching in rich colors, showing butterflies and flowers. Broad white collar, cuffs and bor- der bands, embroidery thereof depicting beautiful little country scenes, with ladies in gardens and in boats upon lakes. Light blue silk lining. MEDALLION ROBE IN BLACK With all of the embroidery crowded into the large circles, showing a profusion of flowers and butterflies. Skirt bor- dered with the wave design. Cuffs likewise bordered. Blue silk lining. BRILLIANTLY EMBROIDERED BLUE COAT Displaying butterflies, flowers, and fruits, the latter being the fragrant Buddha’s Fingers. Beautiful water design forms the border of the skirt. Pale blue silk lining. SHORT BLUE COAT With many brilliant colors beautifully scattered over the dark field. Two border bands, one of black. the other of pale yellow; one embroidered with flowers and bats, the other brocaded with butterflies. Lemon yellow silk lining. DELICATE BROCADED COAT On deep blue, with medallions and wave design, butter- flies, bats, and flowers, in pale faded colors. No collar or cuffs. Light blue silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE OF BLUE AND GOLD With dragons in gold thread, emblems in several colors, clouds in blue and white. Striped wave effect on the skirt. Horse-hoof cuffs. Deep blue sleeve bands. . Yellow silk lining. 92 337 338 339 340 341 SHORT JACKET OF VERY DEEP BLUE Flowers and butterflies embroidered in bright colors. Broad border band of black embroideerd with blue and white. Yellow silk lining. PALE BLUE COAT OF FRUITS AND FLOWERS With occasional butterflies. Part of the embroidery in the fine Pekin seed stitching. Broad white collar and border bands, showing flowers, insects, and butterflies, with here and there the knot symbol. Salmon colored lining. RICH SCARLET COAT With small clusters of flowers alternating with bats for good fortune, in blue and white embroidery. Broad blue cuffs, with rich black embroidery. Trimming of gold and black brocaded bands. Very pale green lining. DELICATELY EMBROIDERED COAT With flowers and butterflies in less profusion and less large than usual. Bats, for good fortune, and here and there the Buddha’s Fingers, a fragrant fruit. White collar and border bands, with many symbols in the brocade. Ladies appear in the scenes embroidered on the broad white cuffs, which also show little bridges and lakes. Rich pink silk lining. BUDDHIST PRIEST’S ROBE cuien tune The body of the coat of brocaded silk in the conventional cloud design. The collar, border bands and squares of rare old kus-su on a deep blue field, showing dragons in gold floating among clouds above the Waves of Eternity. On the front of the coat there are panels of kus-su like fine pictures, showing water lillies, the symbol of Buddhism, growing naturally. Above the flowers a large bird flies. The cloak is sleeveless. 93 342 343 344 345 346 SHORT RED COAT With a profusion of embroidering, showing fruits and flowers with an occasional butterfly. Black collar and border bands brocaded in blue and white. Pale green watered silk lining. DELICATE BLUE COAT Richly embroidered in faded colors, giving the coat a beau- tiful tone. Collar and border bands of white, showing little scenes with many little figures in different attitudes. Cuffs of mauve, embroidered with flowers and butterflies of brilliant hues. Pale salmon lining. SHORT BLUE COAT Of brilliant embroidery, some of it in the fine Pekin seed stitch, on a dark blue ground. Black collar and border bands, heavily brocaded with flowers alternating with Bud- dhist symbols. Wide cuffs show little figures in boats on country lakes. Blue silk lining. PALE BLUE COAT OF WATERED SILK Embroidered in many faint colors, making a beautiful com- bination. On the broad white collar, cuffs, and border bands little rural scenes are depicted, with many little women in the landscape, some crossing bridges, some be- neath pagodas. Pink silk lining. BRILLIANT BLUE COAT Profusely covered with fine embroidery, much of it in fine Pekin stitching, with considerable gold thread. There are numerous symbolical designs—the Hundred Antiques, the shou character for good fortune, the lotus of Buddhism, symbols of authority, and the knot of life. Border bands of white likewise heavily embroidered. Pink silk lining. [See Illustration] 94 _ BRILLIANT BLUE COAT [NUMBER 346] 347 348 349 350 351 MANDARIN ROBE IN PALE GREEN With flowers and butterflies scattered over the field. Broad collar and horse-hoof cuffs of black richly embroidered in many colors. Border band of black brocade showing Bud- dhist symbols. Pink silk lining. RICH OLD MANDARIN ROBE IN BLUE AND GOLD CHIEN LUNG Of kus-su, or Chinese tapestry in gold cloth and blue silk. Broad horse-hoof cuffs and black sleeve bands. Blue silk lining. A coat of old tones. MANDARIN ROBE IN MAROON The five-clawed imperial dragon, the emblem of the Em- peror, floats among blue and white embroidered cloud devices. Below him are smaller dragons above the con- ventional Waves of Eternity, nicely executed in red, blue, yellow, gold, etc., bearing bats for good fortune. Broad horse-hoof cuffs and narrow swastika fret collar of gold thread. Blue silk lining. COAT OF RICH RED BROCADE With an unusually large dragon on the front and back. The pheenix is represented as well as the bat, and numer- ous other symbols of Buddhism. No collar or cuffs. Green silk lining. BOY’S COAT OF DARK BLUE Embroidered in many colors with floral sprays and Bud- hist emblems outlined with gold. Cuffs of white, embroid- ° ered with scenes and figures mostly done in the Pekin stitch. Lined with a yellowish green. 96 352 353 354 355 356 357 DELICATE GAUZE COAT With medallions in colors showing numerous symbolical devices. Along the border of the skirt the design has the effect of a scene in which birds flutter among flowers, rocks, and waves. Unlined. BRILLIANT COAT IN RED With flowers and butterflies in contrasting colors, many of them finely woven in the Pekin seed stitch. Cuffs of im- perial yellow, heavily embroidered. Collar of black bro- cade showing various symbols. Blue silk lining. BROCADED MANDARIN ROBE With gold thread on a blue base. Birds, bats, Buddhist symbols, and Chinese characters appear among the clouds, through which the dragons float. Broad border base of the wave design. Horse-hoof cuffs and striped sleeve bands. No lining. LLAMA PRIEST’S ROBE IN PURPLE With innumerable strange devices known only to devotees or. deep students of this complex religion. Collar and lining of yellow silk. ; COAT OF DRAGONS AND SYMBOLS With dragons in gold thread and symbols and other designs in many colors on a deep blue base. Pale blue silk lining beautifully watered. TABLE COVER MADE OF OLD EMBROIDERY With five medallions, the center being that of a dragon, the others being floral scenes. On a field of deep blue. 97 360 361 362 BRILLIANT GREEN COAT With extravagant butterflies of many wings woven in the seed stitch. The flowers in brilliant colors are woven in the long stitch. Dark richly brocaded border bands. Red cuffs beautifully embroidered. Faded pink watered silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN BLUE AND GOLD A gigantic dragon surrounded by various Buddhist sym- bols and cloud devices is the principal feature. The crea- ture floats in the heavens above conventional waves. Broad horse-hoof cuffs and a collar of brocaded gold thread. Unlined. LONG SCARLET ROBE Flowers, fantastic butterflies, and blossoms thrown in great profusion on a field of scarlet, some of them embroideries in the fine Pekin stitching. No collar or border bands, nor cuffs. Lining of blue watered silk. COAT OF MEDALLIONS On a field of the darkest blue, with embroidery in real gold thread and fine colors. Along the skirt is the conventional wave design in blue and white, with here and there a red swastika. The brilliant yellow sleeves carry flowers, birds, deer, and the heavenly dog, all embroidered in colors. No border or collar. Pale blue watered silk lining. [See Illustration] SHORT JACKET IN DARK BLUE Flowers, blossoms and fantastic butterflies in embroidery of brilliant colors. The black collar and border bands also bear delicate traceries of flowers. Yellow cuffs likewise adorned. Blue silk lining. 98 MEDALLION COAT IN BLUE AND GOLD [NUMBER 361] 363 364 365 MANDARIN ROBE IN SCARLET Many floral medallions. Flying about these medallions are bats, woven in real gold thread, emblems of happiness; and small sprays of flowers may also be seen. Below a wave, spray, and cloud effect is freely studded with blos- soms, likewise embroidered in gold. Narrow collar band of dark blue. Old pale blue watered silk lining. MANDARIN ROBE IN BLUE, RED, AND GOLD The dragon embroidered in gold thread, floats in the heavens among various cloud devices, above two smaller dragons and the conventional Waves of Eternity, which are liberally studded with bats, denoting good fortune. Broad horse-hoof cuffs heavily embroidered, and a narrow blue collar. Blue watered silk lining. BUDDHIST PRIEST’S ROBE cuizn LUNG In faded green. The body of the coat of fine brocaded silk in the conventional cloud design. The collar, border bands, and squares of rare old kus-su on a deep blue field, showing dragons in gold floating among clouds above the ocean. The front panels of the coat display lotus blos- soms, the emblem of Buddhism, in scenes with birds flying above them. The cloak is sleeveless. 100