Production Note Cornell University Library produced this volume to replace the irreparably deteriorated original. It was scanned using Xerox software and equipment at 600 dots per inch resolution and compressed prior to storage using CCITT Group 4 compression. The digital data were used to create Cornell's replacement volume on paper that meets the ANSI Standard Z39.48-1984. The production of this volume was supported in part by the New York State Program for the Conservation and Preservation of Library Research Materials and the Xerox Corporation. Digital file copyright by Cornell University Library 1993.YIBW OF BUFFALO HARBORBUFFALO IN 1825 REPRINTED FROM A PAMPHLET PUBLISHED IN THAT YEAR. BY S. BALL. The Village of Buffalo, is situated at the eastern extrem- ity of Lake Erie,* in the State of New-York, north latitude 42 0 50' 47" and longitude 790 22' 37" west from Greenwich, on a beautiful height of ground, commanding an unlimited view of the lake, and its southern boundary on the one hand, and on the other, the variegated scenery of the Canadian shore, and the majestic Niagara, whose waters form that truly sublime cata- ract, Niagara Falls, at the distance of twenty miles north. The eminence, on which the Village is situated, rises about fifty feet above the level of the Lake, and extends in a northern direction, declining gently to the east and west; at the south- west, the descent is from twenty to thirty feet, and somewhat *This Lake derived its name from a tribe of Indians, who were exterminated (with the exception of a single individual) by the Senecas, at a great battle fought near the Grand River, Upper Canada, some 150 or 200 years ago. There are descendants of the person preserved at that time, now living in the Indian village, (so called) near this place. Note.—This pamphlet is now out of print, and very rare; one of the few copies extant being in the library of the Buffalo Historical Society. The title-page is as follows: “ Buffalo, in 1825: containing Historical and Statistical Sketches, illustrated with a View of the Harbor and Map of the Village. Buffalo: published by S. Ball. H. A. Salisbury, printer, 1825.” Fac similes of the View by the photo-lithographic process, and Map by the artotype process, accompany this republication, facing pp. 139 and 150, respectively. For an interesting letter concerning the originals of these, the first copper-plates pro- duced in Buffalo, see letter of Hon. Gideon J. Ball, of Erie, Pa., son of the author of the pamphlet, and engraver of the View and Map.—post, p. 151. A prefatory note says: ‘"THIS View was taken from the Terrace, between Willink 5$140 BUFFALO IN 182s. abrupt, to a flat of rich alluvial, not long since supposed to be an irreclaimable swamp; through which, now passes the Grand Erie Canal, and terminates in the Little Buffalo, a short dis- tance from its confluence with Big Buffalo Creek, which never ceases to pay its accustomed tribute to the waters of Lake Erie. The surrounding country is of a beautifully even surface, giving a view which appears to be limited only by the horizon. The soil in the Village, consists of dry sand, intermixed with gravel, affording more eligible building lots, than any place of its size in the State. From whence originated the name of Buffalo, as applied to this place, the Author has not been able to learn; notwithstand- ing there are many stories, and some traditional tales on the subject, all of which are said to be equally true. The follow- ing one may not be uninteresting: At a period long before its first settlement, a party of French, bound up the Lake, in a batteau, sought shelter in the Creek; being short of provisions, despatched a hunting party, who, while in search of game, felL in with a horse,* (belonging, probably, to a neighboring tribe of Indians,) that was soon made a sacrifice, by the hungry huntsmen, dressed, and taken to their companions, with the deceptive information, that it was the flesh of aBuffaloe, which they had killed. Hence came the name of Buffalo Creek, and consequently the Village. Whether true or not, the Author is unable to say. The name Te-u-shu-wa, is that by which the Indians have Avenue and South Cayuga Street, near the line between the lots no. 30 and 31; the fore- ground exhibits the confluence of the Canal with the waters of Little Buffalo, and its final termination with the Lake through the medium of Big Buffalo Creek; the Light House, Pier, mouth of the Harbor, and shipping within; Lake Erie, with point Abino (in the Prov- ince of Upper Canada,) on the right, distant eleven miles, and Sturgeon point, (on the U. S. shore,) on the left, distant about fifteen miles. The distance between the two points- may be about sixteen miles.” The author’s preface is: FROM the growing importance, the great demand, and daily- inquiries by strangers for information in relation to the village of Buffalo; the Author has. been induced to exhibit this work to the public, with a hope, that it may answer their pur- pose until such time as some other person, may take up the subject and do it more ample justice.”—Ed. /BUFFALO IN 182s. 141 always known and called this place, anterior to its first settle- ment by the whites. My informant supposes it to be a corrupt Mohawk word, which literally signifies split basswood-bark; of which description of timber, there has been a great abundance on the margin of Buffalo Creek; from which adventitious cir- cumstance, the word may probably have been derived. Or per- haps there may have been some peculiar circumstance relating to the mode of splitting or peeling the bark of this tree, that has caused the Indian word Te-u-shu-wa to be applied for a name. The Indian name for the animal, Buff aloe, is Te-ge-yoh-ga, which places it beyond even the possibility of a doubt, that the name, Buffalo, (as applied to this place) is not of Indian origin. The climate is more pleasant than any situation, in an equally northern latitude, in our country, and equally healthy. The Summers and Autumns are peculiarly fine; the Lake affords a gentle breeze during those seasons, much resembling a sea breeze, but of more elasticity and sweetness. The Winters are less uniform, than in most other parts of our country—the snow rarely falls to a greater depth than six inches; the cold is not so severe as in other places in the same latitude, situated re- mote from the Lake; yet in Winter, when the waters are cov- ered with ice, the winds are often cold and piercing. There are no diseases peculiar to the Village; it is quite ex- empt from local causes which produce bilious, remittent, and intermittent fevers, that prevail in many sections of the west- ern part of the State. The Spring season is variable; the changes of weather are often sudden, especially during the continuance of-ice in the Lake, which probably has a tendency, in some instances, to produce chronic and inflammatory complaints. The water is pure, and obtained entirely from wells, at a depth of from ten to fifty feet. This place was included in the act of mutual cessions, be-142 BUFFALO IN 1825. tween the States of Massachusetts and New-York, and by that act ceded to the former; by subsequent transfers, it came into the hands of the Holland Land Company, and was first sur- veyed in 1801, and began to settle in 1802. The settlement was slow, prior to the year 1810; from that period, until the commencement of the late war, in 1812, it was a flourishing country town, and continued so, until destroyed by a party of British and Indians, in the month of December, 1813, at which time it may be said to have been depopulated. This seems to have first brought the place into notoriety; yet it nearly slumbered, in its ashes, until after the close of the war in 1815. The inhabitants then commenced rebuilding, notwithstanding they had just been reduced from affluence to indigence and want, by the conflagration, and with a hope and expectation, that the Government of the United States would remunerate them in whole, or part, for their losses; but being disappointed in these expectations, it completely paralyzed all kinds of business; a scene of insolvency ensued, more distress- ing, if possible, than even the destruction of the village. Buffalo remained in much the same state, from that time until the year 1822, when it began to feel the inspiring and re- viving influence of the progress of the Grand Canal, which raised its drooping spirits, gave business a fresh spring, and we may now very safely say, that there is not a more flourishing village in any part of our country. And what gives it an ad- ditional start at this time, is the long expected remuneration, from the Government of the United States, for losses sustained during the late war, which by an act of the last Congress, they are now enabled to realize, together with the revival of the Bank of Niagara, and the establishment of an Insurance Office, with a large surplus capital. There are at present between 400 and 500 buildings, includ- ing dwelling houses, stores and mechanics’ shops; and accord- ing to the census taken in January last, there were 2412 inhab- itants, which is 317 more than the whole township of Buffalo,BUFFALO IN 1823. 143 including the village of Black-Rock, contained in the year 1820 according to the census then taken. Black-Rock now contains 1039 inhabitants. Among the population there are four clergymen, seventeen, attornies, nine physicians, three printers, who give employment to ten hands; two book-binders, four do.; four goldsmiths, three do.; three tin and copper smiths, sixteen do.; seven blacksmiths,, seventeen do.; two cabinet makers, ten do.; three wheelwrights and coach builders, ten do.; two chair makers, five do.; one cooper, three do.; three hatters, eight do.; two tanners and curriers, nine do.; five boot and shoemakers, thirty-five do.; two painters, five do.; four tailors, twenty do.; one manufac- turer of tobacco, two do.; fifty-one carpenters and joiners,, nineteen masons and stone cutters, three butchers, and one brush maker. It may be worthy of remark, that notwithstanding the eligi- bility of situation for a shipwright, or gunsmith, there is neither in the place. With these exceptions, Buffalo seems to be well supplied with the different branches of mechanics. There are twenty-six dry good stores, thirty-six groceries,, three hat stores, seven clothing do., four druggist do., one hard- ware do., six shoe do.; one looking glass do., three jewelry do..,, three printing offices, two book stores and binderies, eleven fiouses of public entertainment, one rope walk, three tanneries,, one brewery, one livery stable, eight store houses, one custom house, one reading room, one post office, one public library,, one masonic hall, and one theatre, situated on lot no. 15; which has been conducted during the past year with a very consider- able degree of ability. The public buildings consist of a brick Court House, a very handsome designed building,, but remains unfinished, situated upon an eminence on the east side of North Onondaga street, fronting Cazenovia Avenue, and is on the most commanding ground in the village. A stone Gaol, standing on lot no. 185...144 BUFFALO IN 1825. A Market House situated at the head of Stadnitski Avenue. The Market is as well supplied as most country villages, with every thing in season and of a good quality, and it may not be unworthy of remark that the value of wheat is not known here, nor is there ever a bushel offered for sale; this is undoubtedly occasioned by the want of mills, or streams to set them upon, there being none within a less distance than eleven miles. There can be no hazard in saying, that surplus capital could not be better invested than in that of a Steam Grist Mill, nor would the establishment of any other factory be of equal ad- vantage to the community. The Niagara Bank is a large brick building, situated on North Onondaga, between Swan and Eagle streets. The Buffalo Insurance Office is a large well finished three story brick building, on lot no. 35, Willink Avenue. An Episcopal Church, built of wood, a good sized and well finished edifice, standing on lot no. 42. A Presbyterian Meeting House, a very commodious build- ing, situated on lot no. 43. And a convenient Methodist Chapel, on lot no. 83. There is one Young Ladies’ School, one Young Gentlemen’s Academy, and four Common Schools. The lots, nos. 108, 109, 111 and 112, are occupied for a burying ground. The space left blank in the plan is Lands owned and reserved by Joseph Ellicott, Esq. There are five religious congregations, one Episcopalian, one Presbyterian, one Methodist, one Baptist, and one Universalist. Among the Societies and Institutions, there are five Religious, two Masonic, one Library, one Banking, and one Insurance. There are four weekly Newspapers, to wit: The Buffalo Pa- triot, established in 1811; The Buffalo Journal, established in 1815;.the Gospel Advocate, established in 1823; the Buffalo Emporium, established in 1824. The Light House is built of stone, and situated on a low sandy point, near the confluence of the waters of Buffalo CreekBUFFALO IN 1825. 145 and Lake Erie. The light is elevated about thirty feet above the ordinary Lake level, but is of no great use to mariners, in consequence of the smoke and mists of the village, settling along the margin of the waters, just about the elevation of the lantern, which almost totally obscures the light; except when so near as to see it beneath, or at so great a distance, that it may be seen over the vapor. A private light is fixed at the pier head, for the use of the Steam Boat, and when lighted, can be seen when that of the Light House remains in perfect obscurity. This evil requires a remedy. The Pier is built of wood and stone, commencing at the ex- tremity of the sandy point, on which the Light House stands, extending in a westerly direction into the Lake, eighty-four rods, and averaging eighteen feet in width: it was built in 1819-20 and 21, for the purpose of preventing the accumulation of sands in the mouth of the Creek; and has so far answered the pur- pose, that there has been an uninterrupted and safe navigation (during the seasons) for the last three years, for any vessels that have navigated the Lake, and in any weather. The buildings in the village are principally of wood, and not very compact, with the exception of Willink Avenue; this street is filled up, and is the most business part of the town. Van- staphorst Avenue is built upon much beyond the extent of the map accompanying this work, and is the principal street that is travelled, in passing from east to west. There are many ex- cellent buildings on north and south Onondaga streets; and north and south Cayuga and Tuscarora are equally well built upon, as are the streets running at right angles, consisting of Crow, Seneca, Swan, Eagle, and Mohawk streets, and Stad- nitski, and Cazenovia Avenues. The streets leading along the creeks, (which have not yet been favored even with a Dutch name) may be seen in the Summer season, to exhibit a bustle and hurry of business, not unlike a seaport; and which always accompanies the transfer and reshipment of property.146 BUFFALO IN 182s. These streets are well built, with extensive and comriiodious ware-houses, and capacious docks, where the shipping lies un- disturbed, and in perfect safety. The shipping which belongs to this port, amounts to upwards of one thousand and fifty tons; among which are one Steam Boat, one Hermaphrodite Brig, eight Schooners, one Sloop; and four transportation boats, which average over twenty-five tons each; and a Steam Ferry Boat, which will commence running on the 1 st of July next, between this place and Fort Erie; and is calculated to make a daily trip to Chippewa, on the Canada side, during the present Summer. Besides, there are numerous other water craft, of smaller dimensions. There are upwards of sixty sail of good, substantial and safe vessels, owned upon this Lake, forty-two of which entered this port last season; and there were 286 arrivals, and an equal number of clearances. In the month of March, 1803, the first mail was received here, and returned to Canandaigua, on horseback; and contin- ued to be transported in this manner, every two weeks, until about the year 1805. A weekly route was then established, and continued until about the year 1809 or 10; it was then changed to a stage waggon, but was not very regular, prior to the latter year. It has subsequently been carried semi-weekly, and again three times a week; and for a number of years past, has been trans- ported daily. There are now six different mail routes, leading to and from this place, and twenty regular mails are received and despatched every week, to wit: Seven to the east, via Can- andaigua, carried in post coaches; seven north, via Black Rock, Niagara Falls, Lewiston, &c. carried in post coaches; three west, via Erie, Pa., carried in post coaches; one via Alden, to Moscow, on horseback; one via Aurora and Wales, to Moscow, in a stage waggon; one via Hamburg, to Olean, on horseback; and a mail received and returned by every trip of the Steam Boat Superior. Few places afford greater facilities for the accommodation and conveyance of travellers than this.BUFFALO IN 182s. 147 There are nine regular lines of Stages arriving and leaving here every day; three to the east, three to the north, and a morning and evening line to Black Rock, (meeting and trans- ferring their passengers to a stage from the Canada shore) and one to the west; the carriages are principally post coaches. Besides these daily conveyances, there is an extensive livery stable, where every kind of vehicle can be obtained, that are usually kept at such establishments. There is also the steam brig Superior, of 346 tons burthen, whose accommodations have not been surpassed, making a trip to Detroit, a distance of nearly three hundred miles, every eight or nine days; and it is rare that a day passes during the season without the arrival or departure of some of the lake vessels, which generally have very good accommodations for passengers, and are well found. The Indian reservation is situated east of this village about two miles, and lies in an oblong form, containing eighty-three thousand five hundred and fifty-seven acres of the first quality of land. The Indian village, (so called) is upon these lands; stran- gers are often impelled by curiosity to visit this place, and as often return dissatisfied and disgusted, after travelling over a rough road three miles, to see a few detached Indian wigwams, and fields, in a rude and imperfect state of cultivation. Their population is between nine and ten hundred. Among the principal .chiefs are Red Jacket, who evidently possesses more native talent than any other: proud of his na- tion, jealous of his rights—a penetrating and discriminating mind, and more influence in the national councils than any other chief, and as much gifted in oratory as was the late and noted Patrick Henry. Capt. Pollard, who is an advocate for civilization and the Christian religion. Young King, a man of good calculation, and as good a judge of the value of property as any man.148 BUFFALO IN 1825. Little Billy, Astride Town, and Seneca White, neither of whom are so destitute of talent as to be a discredit to the title of chief. Many, no doubt, indulge themselves in visionary specula- tions, founded upon the future prospects of the Village of Buffalo. That it will, at no very remote period, rival the largest inland town in America, in point of business and opu- lence, seems to be a point conceded: but that it will mature with the rapidity of a mushroom, or rise in magnificence like the enchanted palace, (as many imagine) I am not yet credu- lous enough to believe. It is true, the advantages are com- manding; it has a fine climate, a rich adjacent country, and it may be well said to be the key of the Western Lakes, which - open to our artificial rivers the growing commerce of that vast region of country, bordering south and west, upon the most extensive inland seas on the globe. To enter minutely into a calculation of the probable extent of this commerce, at the expiration of twenty or forty years, would exceed the limits prescribed by a work intended merely as a brief hint at its future greatness, if, indeed, it wrere possi- ble to arrive at a satisfactory result. When we contemplate the progress of the settlements in Ohio, the western parts of Pennsylvania and New-York, for the last twenty years; when we view the daily increasing current of emigration; the im- mense prostration of the forests, yielding to the industry of the husbandman; the hardihood and intelligence of those who are making the “ wilderness blossom;” we can hardly limit the im- agination to the extent of the wealth and population which will ultimately be comprehended within those vastly fertile regions. But that their surplus products will be wafted to this place, and bartered for other commodities, or reshipped on board Canal Boats, for an eastern market, there can be no doubt; and there can be as little doubt, that upon the extent and profits of this commerce, is based the future prosperity and opulence of this village.Buffalo in 1825. 149 It is less than twenty-five years since this place presented to the view of man, a single trace of civilization. In 1813, as has been before observed, it was totally destroyed by the enemy, and it is very evident that this indiscriminate destruction was unavoidably succeeded by pecuniary embarrassments pecul- iarly distressing. Under these circumstances it can be hardly necessary to add, that its growth has been retarded by the poverty and distress of its suffering inhabitants. But for the last three years there has been a flattering increase of popula- tion, and not less flattering is the general industry and perse- verance with which their several vocations are pursued. The village was first surveyed, and the first sales of lots made by the ex-agent of the Holland Land Company, and by him and others employed in the office, the most eligible situa- tions for business were engrossed, and will not probably be sold or but partially improved during the life time of its pres- ent owners. This is a serious impediment to its growth, and one which there is too much reason to apprehend will not be readily removed. The doubts existing in relation to the place of the termina- tion of the canal, or rather its connection with the Niagara river, have unquestionably retarded the increase of the village, but not to any considerable extent: without touching upon the merits of this unpleasant controversy, there is nothing hazarded in the opinion that no injury will result from the course pur- sued by the present canal board. Should inconvenience arise, the legislature will certainly remove them. Every thing re- lating to the Canal and Lake navigation at this place is now within the grasp of individual enterprise. Should the present works terminate as unfortunately as has been predicted by those who condemned it at its commencement, the disasters resulting therefrom will no doubt be promptly relieved by the public. It would present to the state a case of such magni- tude, that neither local partialities, political prepossessions, private interests, nor personal animosities, would be likelyBUFFALO IN 1823. J5° ever to turn the ears of the representatives of the people, from the calls of justice, or to close their eyes upon the demonstra- tions of experience; nor permit the delay of the completiontof a work, at which every state in the union, and even the nations of Europe, are looking with admiration. STATEMENT OF DISTANCES. Buffalo is in longitude 90 9' 37" west from Portland, in the State of Maine. From Boston, - - - 8° GO OO west. Quebec, - - - 8 17 37 New-York, - - - 5 14 37 Philadelphia, - - - - 4 13 37 Washington City, - - - 2 6 37. New-Orleans, - - - 10 46 23 east. The distance from Washingt on City, according to the post route is 431 miles. From New York city, - - - - 446 Albany, - - . - - 296 Utica, - - - . - 200 Canandaigua, - - - - 88 Batavia, - - - - 39 Niagara Falls, - - - - 22 Lewiston, - - - - 29 Fort Niagara, - - 37 Olean, - - - - 74 Detroit, - - - - 290] by Sandusky, - - - - 240 r Cleveland, _ - - - 180 [ water. Erie, - - - - 80 j New Orleans, - - - - 1392 Pittsburgh, - - - - 210 LETTER FROM THE HON. GIDEON J. BALL. 151 [LETTER FROM THE HON. GIDEON J. BALL.] Erie, February 8th, 1876. O, H. Marshall, Esq., Buffalo, N. Y. Dear Sir:—Our search has been crowned with success. Two copies of the pamphlet, “Buffalo in 1825,” have been found. They show age. I send you the more perfect one. Several copies of the picture, “View of Buffalo Harbor,” were found also. I send you one of them. The “View of Buffalo Harbor,” and the Map of the Village, were the first copper-plate engravings done in Buffalo. In your city you have skill’d engravers—ac- complished artists—who may laugh at the rude work of that day, 1825. A proper study of the period, and a knowledge of the attending difficulties, I am persuaded, will cause them to hesitate before they condemn. S. Ball was not an engraver—never claimed to be—but, with a pencil, he sketched well and cleverly. After the completion of his drawings, he corresponded with engravers in the city of New York, and to his surprise, found their charges so high, and the difficulties of distance so great, that he was disposed for a time to give up his hobby—for on his part it was a hobby. After reflection, he resolved to do the work himself. Copper was pro- cured;—the plates were hammered to firmness, and by infinite rubbing, their Surfaces were finished so that they presented polished planes. S. Ball then set himself to the work, and by persevering effort, succeeded in transferring to the copper the pictures he had drawn with his pencil. When the engravings were completed—it is amusing to remember with what innocence of purpose—the plates were carried to the “ Buffalo Patriot ” printing office: up stairs at north-east corner of Vanstapkorst Avenue and Eagle street. The plates were duly put on the printing press, when earnest and repeated efforts were made to get impressions—but the pictures came not. Then it was learned that newspaper printing presses would not give im- pressions from engraved copper-plates. Here was a dilemma. How to overcome the difficulty was the next study. Books were consulted. They taught that such work could be done only on a copper-plate printing press, with large, lignum-vit£e rollers, an upper and lower one, etc., etc. Such tollers were not to be had in Buffalo; to procure them from abroad was out of the question. Mechanics who had a knowledge of timber were con- sulted; they agreed that buttonwood was the best substitute. Accordingly, a buttonwood-tree of suitable diameter was cut down, and two large rollers, turned in a lathe, were soon provided, as also a bed-plate to run betweeni52 LETTER FROM THE HON. GIDEON J. BALL. them ; in this manner a copper-plate printing press was fabricated. And on that press the picture and map in the pamphlet, “ Buffalo in 1825,” were printed. I will add that when the printing came to be done, news- paper ink was used, and it proved to be unfitted for the work,—was unsatis- factory in every respect. Authorities were again consulted, when it was learned that there was an ink, known as copper-plate printers’ ink, and the books furnished instruc- tions how to make it. The proper ingredients were procured, ink made, and by its use the pic- tures came from the press of a better and darker color. This was book or picture making under difficulties. The larger part of the edition was given away; a limited number were sold at twenty-five cents each. I think I am safe in saying that not five (5) per cent, of the cost of the work was ever realized by S. Ball. On his part it was a hobby—a labor of love, and he gratified it. Very truly yours, Gideon J. Ball. P. S.—I read the pamphlet to-day,—after a pause of fifty years ! It re- called to memory occurrences connected therewith. I have ventured to mention some of them. This writing, I confess, has afforded me a brief period of relief (I am an invalid—write slow, and with difficulty), yet I fear the reading of my letter may prove to be a tax on your time and patience; if so, I trust you will pardon the liberty I have taken. Ball.