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copyright by Cornell University
Library 1993.CORNELL
UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY
Willard Fiske
Endowment~W~i*kUr. Sc.Jfuu'LIFE IN AMERICA,
A NARRATIVE
Cfoo gtars Ci'tg $c Couittrp ftesftmt
IN THE
UNITED STATES.
BY Ilio MJLTOKFo
HULL:
PRINTED BY JOHN HUTCHINSON, SCALE-LANE
AND SOLD BY
SIMPKIN AND MARSHALL, LONDON,
AND BY ALL BOOKSELLERS.
1S33.PREFACE.
In submitting these few sheets to the public*
the authoress wishes to be considered* as present-
ing a faithful record of her observations* and of
events that occurred* within the limits of her ex-
perience* during her continuance* for the space of
two years* both in the city of New York and at
her residence in the country.
Whenever she has felt herself called upon to
give an opinion* she has endeavoured with impar-
tiality* to comply; and when* in delineating a
character* she has been compelled to draw upon
fiction for the name* in order to avoid inflicting
an injury by an unnecessary exposure; it may be
concluded with certainty* that the name alone is
fictitious, and* that the individual there represented*
is correctly depicted in his proper colours.
a 2iv
While employed in preparing this small volume
1 for the press, that opinion, so frequently expressed
by the Americans, has often occurred to her: viz.
That should a book be written on their country,
containing truth in its unalloyed simplicity, it
would for ever lie on the shelves of the bookseller
as no encouragement would be given, in England,
to any publication on such a subject, unless it
contained libels and falsehoods.35 Although suf-
ficiently convinced herself, of the fallacy of this
notion, it has still had some influence, in inciting
her to use as much caution, as if these pages were
about to be submitted, as a test to decide the fate
of some experiment.
She has endeavoured so to unite amusement
with useful information, as to make this volume
desireable, both as a book of utility to the emi-
grant, and as a volume of entertainment, to those
who prefer viewing the other side the Atlantic
through the safer medium of the press. How far
she has succeeded, must be left to the judgement
of a discerning public.
Hull, June 1st. 1838.LIFE IN AMERICA.
CHAPTER I.
THE VOYAGE.
The day on which we sailed was clear and
serene, and we gently drifted with the tide, down
Belfast Lough into the Channel. Assured that I
should not be able to see land the following morn-
ing, I kept my eyes fixed upon the hills in the
distance, till darkness rendered them no longer
visible. I never undertake a voyage or a journey,
without a vague feeling of melancholy—there is
something strangely depressing in the preliminaries
of departure: the packing of boxes—the arrange-
ment of books, clothes and papers,—-the whole
valedictory ceremony has in it something very
oppressive; and always excites sensations of sad-
ness.—Indeed, I seldom visit a place, even for a
a 36
few weeks* without meeting with some agreeable
associates* whose company I feel loath to relinguish;
and sometimes find this impracticable* without
attesting my emotions by tears. These* however*
form an inadequate representation of the state of
my mind when I was leaving the shores of Europe*
with the prospect of a long, and perhaps* a final
separation. But* in this instance* these unpleasant
sensations were greatly alleviated* by considering
that the presence of those* whom I held dearer than
all other earthly treasures* was with me in the
vessel: I mean my husband and my children.
The next morning* we found ourselves going at
a rapid rate, under the influence of a gale much too
brisk for personal comfort. Our vessel was rather
small* but she was* what is termed by sailors “ a
good sea-boat;” and* for that reason alone* on
account of her pitching and rolling* very unplea-
sant for passengers. The whole of the company
in the cabin were distressingly affected with
nausea* and* as long as this gale lasted* we were
quite in a passive and suffering condition.
This distressing concomitant of a long voyage
affects individuals variously* according to their7
ages, constitutions and previous habits of life.
My personal sufferings were very severe, and were
augmented by the care of an infant of six months.
I had a servant on board, but she required as much
attention from the steward as myself: and I now
discovered, to my great inconvenience, what I had
frequently heard others affirm,—that very few ser-
vants indeed, whatever be their representations,
are capable of performing their duties, during the
first week of a long voyage.
The next day, the gale increased to something
like a storm; and I was, for safety, recommended
to retire to my berth. While lying there, helpless
and almost in an inanimate state, a compass,
enclosed in a box, which had escaped my notice,
fell from a small shelf just above my head, and
struck me a violent blow, with its sharp comer,
upon my temples. From the weight of the
box, it was supposed, that had my head reclined
only one-fourth of an inch in another direction,
the consequences must have been fatal: my infant
also had a narrow escape, having been removed
from my side only a few minutes before. I suf-
fered much however, as it was; but I ought eter-
A 48
najly to acknowledge, with lively feelings of gra-
titude, the merciful interposition of an over-
ruling Providence in my favour.
During the continuance of this storm or gale,
all the passengers on board were laid aside, with-
out a single exception—the assistance of a female
could not be obtained either for love or for money.
We lay helpless in our berths, and, I think, I never
partook of food for upwards of two days: nor was
my case in this respect, by any means singular. I
have performed long voyages, both before and
since, and have always been similarly affected.
The cabin of a packet ship, bound to a distant
port, is a bazaar of character. Here, are assembled
individuals, the very antipodes of each other in
religion, politics, employment, country, and lan-
guage. Here, the gay and the grave; the religious
and the profane; with their peculiar prejudices and
partialities, meet upon one common plane of
equality. Under no other circumstances can this
take place. Boarding houses, indeed, on the Con-
tinent and in America, have some resemblance;
but there, an opportunity is afforded for selection:
here, choice is impossible, the company, be its9
composition ever so heterogeneous, is confined
within a circumscribed space, from which there is
no retreat^ and they are obliged to spend the
whole of their time, in that part of the vessel which
they have selected.
Our cabin company, however, was by no means
numerous; besides myself and my family, it con-
sisted of the captain and his wife, both originally
from Connecticut; a Mrs. Johnson, an English
lady; an Irish lady, from Antrim; an English ma-
nufacturer; a young American merchant; a young
Irishman, and a youth of dubious origin, called
“ James.^
The captain and his lady were, in point of dis-
position, the most unlovely specimen of Americans
I ever met with, either before or since, and were,
every way, calculated to give us a most unfavoura-
ble opinion of the state of society in their country.
Ever since his first voyage to Europe, the captain
had formed an unfavourable opinion of the English,
from two circumstances, that none, but a person of
his own cast of mind, would adduce as distinguish-
ing marks of the English character. I remember,
one of these grievances was, that some on the quay
a 510
at Liverpool, had applied to him the unpalatable
term of “ transported Yankee/* garnished with
some accompaniments, by no means compli-
mentary. For this, and something else equally
important, he seemed to consider himself justifia-
ble in insulting every Englishman, and lost no
opportunity of stretching this assumed prerogative,
when conveniently practicable, to the very bounds
of despotism.
He was morose and remarkably ignorant—was
perpetually smoking cigars, and, like his country-
men, eternally spitting; but a very moderate
drinker. Out of his profession he was nobody, but
we had good reason to believe, his nautical talents
were of the highest order.
Our private cabins, in which were our berths,
were so constructed, that every word, said in them,
might be as distinctly heard in the public cabin,
as if we ourselves were all there assembled. I
was, on the first day of our embarkation, alone in
mine, changing my dress, when the cabin was
occupied by the captain and a few of his personal
friends, who had accompanied him on the voyage,
with a view of returning in the Pilot boat; their11
conversation was about the passengers on board,
all of whom, excepting myself, were on deck at that
time; I heard the captain affirm, after alluding to
his English passengers, “ that if an Englishman
were to fall over board he would not throw out a
rope to save him .” I distinctly heard him make
this assertion, and shall never forget the sensations
it produced—I heard also his wife*s amiable
applaudissement of this fiend-like expression.
This last did not surprise me, as it was in
exact accordance with the opinion I had formed of
her character, from the first glance of her physiog-
nomy. By cautioning them, for the future, to be
more guarded in their private communications, I
let them know I was in possession of their senti-
ments: and, I thought proper to point out the
way in which I obtained my information, in order
to convince them that I was above the meanness of
listening.
The captain used to commence the day with
“ doing the formidable” among the sailors. Having
discharged upon these poor fellows, all the steam
of ill humour that had accumulated during the
previous night, he would descend into the cabin
a 612
and take Breakfast. We had frequently remarked*
that during this repast* he invariably attempted to
make some one of us miserable* by indulging in
some insulting remarks* artfully delivered in the
form of opinions; so* in order to defeat his amiable
intentions* we. agreed to preserve a dead silence* or
to answer in the most laconic manner possible;
concluding that he could not long amuse himself
with a monologue. His advent was agreed upon to
be the signal for us to prepare to carry our designs
into execution. There we sat—with nun like
gravity* quaffing our coffee in silence* as toasts are
drank to the memory of the departed!
This* however* had the desired effect. Annoyed
by our taciturnity* which necessarily imposed a
similar penance on himself* he would turn in
despair to his wife: here* he was either entirely
unsuccessful* or otherwise amused with an inceptive
taste of matrimonial infelicity.
This was the second month of their marriage.
His wife was the daughter of a Connecticut farmer.
She was about twenty-five years of age* and some-
what diminutive in person;—her countenance* on
all occasions* preserved the rigidity of a statue,13
except when excited to dart a look of malevolence,
or, when she endeavoured to assume an air of
authority: on this latter occasion it presented the
funniest appearance imaginable. Transplanted from
the domestic employment of a small farm, to do the
honours of the cabin table, it was evident she felt
herself greatly exalted, and bore her elevation with
the worst grace possible. Of a mean and suspi-
cious cast of mind, and conscious of being alike
destitute of outward attractions and internal excel-
lences, she was, in consequence, jealous in the ex-
treme, and always interpreted any little attention
paid to another, in her presence, as an insult offered
to herself. Her conduct to the poor black steward,
was marked with haughtiness and cruelty; and if,
as some say, vulgar pride, meanness and tyranny
are commonly found united, she was, certainly, in
this respect, by no means singular.
I have occupied more space in delineating these
characters than their importance, at first sight
seems to warrant; but I hope to escape censure,
when the use I have made of them, as the repre-
sentatives of a certain class, shall appear more
conspicuously.14
The English lady, M"s. Johnson, was an amia-
ble personage. She was, in my judgment, as
correct a personification of virtue as any, with whom
I have had the happiness to come in contact;—
devout without superstition—cheerful without
levity—refined without affectation—and well in-
formed, without literary pretension, she might pass
for a model. She was the widow of a clergyman
in Yorkshire, and was on her way to her brother
at Albany.
I have since passed through her former place
of residence in England, and accidentally dis-
covered some circumstances which her modesty
kept concealed. Early in life, she was left a
widow with a slender income, from which she had
to support herself, her infant, and an aged mother.
Refusing to become an encumbrance to her friends,
she employed herself in teaching music, and, in
this way, succeeded in smoothing the few declining
steps of an aged parent to the grave, and pro-
viding for her infant, till it no longer required
earthly provision. This account exalted her still
higher in my esteem, and shed fresh lustre on a
character otherwise amiable.15
The Antrim lady was a very good natured
creature. She stood on equal ground with the
captain’s wife in point of educational advantages*
or rather disadvantages; but was her opposite in
every thing else. She was remarkably agreeable*
and possessed that truly Christian qualification I
so much admire—an earnest desire to make every
one happy. Her foibles were the result of her
unfortunately limited education. But I found in
her case* as I have in others* that a redundant
flow of animal spirits is no certain evidence of
weak intellects or shallow feelings.
The English manufacturer was a gentleman in
the decline of life*—a man of good sense. He was
sedate but very good natured. To him we con-
tinually appealed in all cases of dispute* and when
the question came within his province* he never
failed* by his decision* to impress us with respect
for the soundness of his judgement. He seemed to
possess that antipathy to the changes that are
passing around us* associated with a peculiar ve-
neration for the past* so frequently found in per-
sons of his years.
The young Irishman was a warm hearted being.16
His constant amusement was humming tunes and
writing poetry. For the latter he had an uncon-
querable passion. He expressed himself, as being
confidently assured, that he possessed the true
spirit of poetry; and that, at some time, not far
distant, he should distinguish himself above the
herd of mankind. He was greatly encouraged to
devote his time to the muses, by having heard it
repeatedly said in his family, that his great grand-
father was a poet—that is, that he had written
something, that had pleased somebody. From
this, it appears, that the poo# young man, sup-
posing that poetry, like the gout, was hereditary;
and, like that distemper, would sleep in the blood
for generations, and descending from father to son,
would break out after the lapse of a century,—
concluded that the fire of poetry would some day
blaze out from him, and astonish the world.
Poets, like other authors, and some say author-
esses, are reported as never being satisfied without
large draughts of unqualified praise. From his
teasing the gentlemen with his verses, it seems he
possessed this unfortunate propension; and I must
confess, if his poetry deserved as much praise as it
produced merriment, it was excellent!17
The American merchant was a gentleman of a
quiet disposition, and rather reserved. Although
both countrymen, the captain and he appeared
most cordially to detest each other.
There was a youth on board, about twenty
years of age, whom the captain called “ James/*
and who described himself as an Englishman. He
was ostensibly under the protection of the captain,
who appeared to be somewhat ashamed of his
charge. He surpassed all, of whom I, have ever
heard or read, in the vicious practice of telling
falsehoods. For the first few days he led us all into
a labyrinth of misunderstandings. His tales were
so perplexingly mischievous, and at the same time
so easily detected, that it was truly astonishing for
what purpose he gave them utterance. The gen-
tlemen appeared determined to convince him, by
forcible arguments, that such conduct would not
be tolerated with impunity. His presence of
mind happily suggested his absence of body, as the
best means to avoid a result, so likely to prove
unpleasant to his feelings •* and, as fear drove him
to the forward part of the vessel, shame kept him
there—a place, no doubt, far better suited to his18
taste than the one he had evacuated. How the
captain would account for this, to his friends, I
cannot imagine; but they must know the propen-
sity of this cc James” too well to believe his asser-
tions, even if called forth by a dispute respecting
the certainty of his own existence! He said he was
an Englishman, and that we considered, as con-
clusive evidence, that he was not.
I would earnestly recommend families going
abroad, who are anxious to secure the advantage
of a surgeon, to require a personal interview with
the individual who is to act in that capacity; par-
ticularly if they sail from a foreign port. Such a
precaution would frequently prevent much disap-
pointment, as the person who is introduced as
“ the doctor,” not unfrequently turns out to be
some smith, or barber, redolent of rum, and
dressed in shabby black: and perhaps appearances,
will not be found much improved, after a few
minutes conversation.
After we had been a few hours under weigh,
one of the crew jumped over board, under the in-
fluence of intoxication; a boat was immediately
lowered, and the poor foolish fellow was rescue^19
from a watery grave. The passengers, from ,a
mistaken notion of good nature, had furnished this
man with that which might have proved his
destruction.
The captain, on this occasion, exerted his pre-
rogative in a judicious manner, by compelling all
on board to surrender their stores of spirits, &c.
and not a single glass was allowed to either officers
or men, during the whole of the voyage. This
caused some murmuring, and was represented, by
some, as springing from a pure love of despotism.
The steerage of the vessel was occupied by up-
wards of a hundred passengers, almost the whole
of whom were Irish: they behaved exceedingly
well. Perhaps the absence of the “ circulating
medium of friendship” (whiskey) was the principal
cause of their good conduct. The following cir-
cumstance, which fell under my immediate notice,
I confess, inclines me to adopt this opinion. Shortly
after we arrived at New York, a vessel, freighted
in a similar manner to this in which we were,
discharged its living cargo on the north side of
the city. They leaped joyfully on shore, vo-
ciferating cheers for the “ Land of liberty,” and20
rushed into the neighbouring spirit stores to
regale themselves. The “ little drop” so effectually
blinded their minds to the distinction of meum and
tuum, that they proceeded to select shillaleighs
from a cargo of hickery wood just landed, that was
sawn into lengths of four feet, and of various
degrees of thickness. With these they furiously
assailed each other—-the police were ordered out—
and nearly all them were allowed, for the space of
(I think) a month, to sing praises to the “ land of
liberty” within the walls of a prison. Disorderly
characters are much more severely punished in the
United States than here. With us, misconduct,
proceeding from intoxication, is too frequently
treated as a joke—there, it is no joke.
After the distressing nausea had ceased to tor-
ment us, we found some few enjoyments of which
we had entertained no previous expectation. Those,
who have not passed a moon-light evening at sea,
are unacquainted with the principal pleasures of
life. The solemn, yet placid moaning of the
ocean—the rich variety of light and shade, pro-
duced by the falling of the moon-beams on the
waves—the boundless expanse that lies open to21
the view—the peaceful grandeur that reigns, broken
only, by sounds that harmonize with the majesty
of the scene—all these unite to present an associ-
ation of the peaceful, the splendid and the sublime,
of which the pencil can convey no adequate idea.
With the converse of a friend, on these delight-
ful evenings, when the vessel was darting over the
mighty waters, with the celerity of a swallow, I
seemed to enjoy more than fabled elysian pleasures:
Or, wlfen all was still, and the ship calmly reposing
on the bosom of the ocean—I could send my
thoughts eastward, over the surrounding world of
waters, and indulge in a rapturous retrospect.
The home of my youthful days then appeared
invested with its most captivating attractions. The
village green—the grove, with the distant mill—
the surrounding landscape—
*And every stump,—familiar to my sight
Recalled some fond idea of delight.
* These scenes of my childhood, as if abounding
with the delights of Paradise, would excite emotions
exquisitely sublime, yet slightly tinctured with a
pleasing sadness. Wherever, through this wide
world, my wandering feet may turn, my country,22
and the place of my nativity, will never cease to
attract my attention with a cord—fine, indeed, and
tenuous as the slightest gossamer, yet strong as the
stoutest cable.
This may be called an ebullition of enthusiasm,
the sole result of feminine weakness—but the great-
est characters on earth have confessed its power.
Seneca, banished to Corsica, found his philoso-
phy fail, in a vain attempt, to reconcile him to the
spot, and pathetically entreats the soil of the land
of his banishment, to lie lightly on the ashes of the
living. To Seneca, Corsica was a grave. But,
Napoleon, to whom the same island was a cradle,
declared, when in exile, that if once more permitted
to see the place of his nativity, he should embrace
the ground with rapture; and even, if lead blind-
fold he could discover it by the very smell.
Our time hung heavily on our hands, during
the day. The continual motion of the vessel pro-
hibited us from doing exactly what we desired; but
I fear, want of inclination prevented some of us
from employing ourselves, where useful employ-
ment was really practicable. During these hours
of idleness* the gentlemen amused themselves23
with shooting at stormy petrels, birds, in some de-
gree, resembling the martin, and whose residence is
confined to the main ocean: it is said they are
never to be seen within two hundred miles of land.
Shoot at them, they did indeed, about twenty times
a day; but although the birds were seen, almost
in a state of quiescence, riding upon the summit
of the huge waves, and frequently within a few
yards of the gun’s muzzle—not one was ever shot.
From observation, I became so confident that they
would hit something, that I removed my children
from the deck for -safety.
Some say that these birds, like the enemies of
the Puritans, possess a charm against cold lead.
This attribute is, perhaps, as true as that of their
eternal residence on the waves of the ocean; and is
not entirely destitute of utility, for it serves to
excuse the inexpertness of nautical sportsmen.
We had been perplexed for many days with
light winds, and were driven far northward. After
we had been about twenty days under sail, and
had reached a very high latitude; the air, influenced
by the neighbouring ice-bergs, became very cold*
While in this position, one star light night, about24
seven o^clock, we were surprised by the appearance
of a phenomenon in the heavens; which we, at
first, conceived to be an aurora borealis; but it
did not correspond, in every particular, with the
descriptions we have heard and read of the aurora.
I shall here attempt to describe it.
Let the reader imagine the arc of a circle, about
90° in length, with its concave side turned due
north. From its convex side, divergent streams of
light were seen about 30° in length, equal in all
points, and distinctly exhibiting in brilliant dis-
play, all the colours of the rainbow; without shoot-
ing or darting, they remained in all their splendour
for a full hour. After that period, they began
gradually to grow dim, but preserved their position
till they were no longer visible: this was about
two hours from their first appearance.
One evening, when the state of the weather
compelled us to remain below deck, and the poet
was, as usual, humming tunes, the ladies working,
and the gentlemen conversing; the captain hap-
pened to express his intention, on his return, to
sell his estate in Connecticut, and, in connection,
said something about a lien. Now, this word,25
Hen, is frequently used, I am told, in New Eng-
land, to express a mortgage; and is usually there
pronounced like the name of the animal lion;—
this pronunciation the captain employed. He
had scarcely finished the sentence, when the poet
with astonishment exclaimed,66 Bless me! I never
knew there were lions in America—can that be
true?**—“ Too true, to my sorrow, I know it,”
was the captain’s reply. The poet seemed all
amazement. We remained silent, and he fixed
his eyes, in imploring inquisitiveness on the cap-
tain’s wife, supposing that being a native, she must,
of course, be capable of satisfying his curiosity.
But that lady’s countenance had changed its
solemn blankness, and her eyes were darting rays
of anger at her husband. The poor poet, however,
regardless of her transfiguration, continued, with
all the solemnity of unconsciousness, to ply her
for the meaning of the term. This was too much—
overcome by her feelings, she sank down and gave
vent to a flood of tears.
It was easy for us, who were acquainted with
her, to divine the cause of her emotions. She had
»
frequently alluded to the thousands of acres she
B26
inherited*-—indeed* her ridiculous assumption of
“ the heiress” had been truly disgusting;—and
now her partner had innocently disclosed the
mortifying fact, that this property was encumbered
by a lien.—Hence her tears!
Some time after this, one of the company, in
giving a description of the present state of the
field at Waterloo, accidentally associated the word
lion with that of land, in alluding to the lion by
which that Aceldema is overlooked. And, per-
fectly innocent of the effect he was producing,
was only stopped from enlarging on the subject,
by a similar eruption of mortified vanity.—What
a mass of self-infiicted agonies must such people
endure!
The number of porpoises that played around
the ship, seemed to enjoy as much amusement as
they imparted. The rapidity with which these
unwieldy creatures move, is very surprising. From ^
a rough calculation, made by a gentleman on board,
taking the rate of the vessel for his datum, their
speed was about thirty miles per hour. We saw
some flying fish; they are elegant little things, and,
when seen in a certain position, resemble the
pictorial representation of miniature angels.27
A few sharks were seen darting through the
water. They abound on the American coast, and
render sea bathing very dangerous. Their usual
practice is, to scour the shore, with the incoming
tide, in search of food; and, for that reason, it is
safe to bathe only when the tide is receding. From
ignorance of this circumstance, accidents have
occurred to Europeans, which, in some instances,
have been attended with fatal consequences.
It is generally supposed, from the remarks of
some naturalists, that the shark turns on its side
when in the act of seizing his prey; and, that
while he is changing his position, the object of his
attack has time to escape. This must be recorded
from hearsay. The celerity, with which the vora-
cious creature cuts through the water, surpasses
comprehension—the human eye can scarcely fol-
low him. I have had frequent opportunities of
observing him, when seizing his prey or a bait, and
have witnessed experiments made in clear water,
for the purpose of attesting the truth of this asser-
tion. From all which it appeared, that he may per-
haps, slightly swerve his body;—but, even if so,
there is scarcely time given for an intent observer
b 228
to notice the motion; and to escape* when once
within his reach* is absolutely impracticable.
In descending from the north we crossed the
Banks of Newfoundland. These Banks are covered
with water* varying in depth from twenty to sixty
fathoms. Here* innumerable quantities of fish
are nourished* by vegetable substances* washed
down in the Gulf Stream; and fishing smacks*
from all parts of Europe and America* assemble
here* at certain seasons* to take in their cargoes.
Were the whole world supplied with fish from this
quarter* it is supposed no perceptible diminution
would be the consequence. The eagerness of the
fish in taking a bait here* is really astonishing; and
forms a striking contrast to the caution evinced*
under similar circumstances* by the fresh water
species.
A fog prevailed during our passage across the
Banks: this* I understood* is by no means an
unusual occurrence* and i$ said to be produced by
evaporation. We found the water here* to pre-
serve a uniformity of appearance with that on
soundings. In the main ocean it is many shades
darker in colour.29
Considering the immense traffic between Europe
and the New Worlds I was surprised at the paucity
of vessels* that crossed the field of our view; during
the whole passage* we only saw three! We spoke
with two of these; one was a whaler* in search of
those monsters of the deep* of which we had seen
no less than nine.
After we had cleared the Banks* we were
favoured with an auspicious gale* that carried us
along* at a rapid rate* till we were very near land;
but* before we had the happiness to enjoy the sight
of that desired object* we were surrounded by
another dense fog. We continued* however* to
scud along for several hours* till the captain judged
it prudent to take in sail; observing* that accord-
ing to his reckoning* we must be close upon land;
and* that if the fog would permit him to discover
a particular floating light* he would take in the
vessel* without the assistance of a pilot. This*
however* was not the case.
This evening* we* of the cabin* missed several
things* on arranging our luggage for landing. To
those* whom such advice will benefit* I would say*
“ Take from your main store* as few valuables as
b 230
possible, that are conveniently portable; and fur-
nish yourselves with common articles, if you wish
to keep your superior ones.5* The chief loss of my
party was in books, spoons, and children’s forks.
I had provided the two latter articles expressly for
the occasion, in anticipation of what might occur;
and those who “ borrowed” them, no doubt have
discovered, ere this, that “ it is not all gold that
glitters”—nor yet silver.
The next morning’s sun shone bright to every
eye on board.—The cry of “ Land off the larboard
bow” was hailed with rapturous cheers—there,
indeed, it was, plain enough, and only about half
a league from the vessel—and there was the float-
ing light, dimly flickering from the head of an
old hulk, moored at a similar distance, on the
starboard.
When we considered the thousands of miles
we had sailed—the extremes of latitude to which
we were driven (from 40° to 65°)—the impracti-
cability of taking an observation for the two
preceding days, on account of the weather—we
were surprised at the judgement of the captain,
who could, under such disadvantageous circum-31
stances, bring a vessel, through a fog, within a few
cables* length of land, and declare her position!
We sailed past Sandy Hook to the usual
rendezvous of all vessels bound to the city of
New York—the Quarantine ground. This place
is situated about seven miles from the city, it is a
narrow channel, formed by the near approximation
of Staten Island and Long Island.
Close by the water's edge, on Staten Island, an
hospital is situated, for the reception of invalids,
from foreign vessels. It is chiefly supported by a
capitation of two dollars, demanded from every
foreigner before he lands; and, in case of default,
he is taken to prison! But more of this hereafter.
We were boarded and examined by a surgeon, and
found all in health, except one old woman in the
steerage, who, to our consternation, was found to
be dangerously ill. She was placed in a boat, and
with all expedition, was rowed to the shore, and
died just as she entered the hospital. Had the
poor old creature departed ten minutes sooner, we
should have been quarantined, I understand, for
twenty days. After remaining here for nearly
twelve hours, we weighed anchor and floated, with
the tide, to the city.32
CHAPTER II.
DESCRIPTION OF NEW TORE.-----CHURCHES.----
THEATRES.---AUCTIONS.---UNCX.E SAM.
The bay of New York is a fine piece of water,
studded with islands, and is usually first viewed
with sensations of agreeable surprise. From its
designation, I expected to find it presenting a semi-
circular form, like most other bays; but, to the eye
of an individual, entering from the Atlantic, it
assumes the appearance of a fine circular lake,
about eight miles in diameter; and, I think, that
term would describe it more correctly, than the
one adopted. In strict propriety, either is a mis-
nomer—it is an estuary. This magnificent sheet
of water, by whatever name it may be known, is
bounded on the north by Manhatten Island, on
the southern extremity of which stands the city
of New York.
It was just before sun set, on a delightful
evening in the month of October, allowed to be, by
far, the pleasantest period of a transatlantic year,33
when we approached this commercial metropolis of
North America. Here, the atmosphere, like that
of Italy, is extremely clear; it imparts a charming
lustre to the surrounding landscape, and clothes
the scenery with an appearance of inconceivable
brilliancy. The prospect was most delightful. We
seemed as if gently gliding over a sea of fluid
gold—in the distance, was the city, guarded with
unnumbered vessels; and occupying a dignified
station on the banks, and just at the point of
confluence, of two of the finest rivers in the
world. These, the magnificent Hudson, and the
East River of equal width, were seen pouring their
tributary floods of liquid light, into the bosom of
this splendid estuary. On the right, were the
heights of Long Island—far off, on the left, was
Jersey City, stationed on the coast which gives its
name. The whole prospect, enriched by a pleasing
variety of wood and water; and viewed through
the bright medium of this clear atmosphere, ren-
dered still more brilliant by the setting sun, com-
bined to form a scene, most enchantingly beau-
tiful—too grand, indeed, for the most sanguine
imagination to conceive.
•	'	b 534
Mr. Felton, with three of the other gentlemen,
impatient at being detained at the quarantine
ground, had embraced the advantage, offered by a
passing steamer, of proceeding to the city before
us; and, having made arrangements for our accom-
modation, was waiting to receive us. Those will
sympathize with my feelings, on first setting foot
on dry land, who have, like myself, endured five
weeks confinement in a ship; which is, indeed,
nothing more than a floating prison, differing only
from a stationary one, in the probable event of a
jail delivery by drowning.
Arrived at length, and being safely debarked,
we soon found ourselves installed as inmates of a
genteel boarding-house, at the upper end of
Beekman-Street, near the City Hall. On entering,
I was a little surprized at the appearance of the
rooms—being much better furnished, and present-
ing altogether a nobler air; than I expected to find
assumed by a mere boarding-house, in this far-
away country. After we had forwarded our letters
and refreshed ourselves, we retired to a comforta-
ble bed room on dry land; rendered doubly grate-
ful, after the tempestuous tossings of the ocean, and
the fatigue produced by this day of excitement.35
The next morning we all rose early, and, with
glowing expectations, set forward to perambulate
the city. What strange sensations affect the
mind of a stranger, on first entering a foreign
city—what an air of novelty every thing appears
to wear, that the eye can rest upon! Every trifle
attracts attention, and our desires for information,
appear as if they never could be gratified.
This city of New York certainly is a noble
place; it is divided into fourteen wards, and con-
tains about 180,000 inhabitants. The houses are
chiefly of red brick, and, altogether, its internal
appearance fully justified the impressions pro-
duced, by the outline of the previous night.
Broadway, as the principal street is called, is
the leading feature, in point of position and fashion-
able attraction; it runs in a direct line, from south
to north, through the heart of the city; and is, I
believe, about three miles and a half in length: its
southern extremity communicates with a fine
promenade, leading to the south battery. This
fort is situated at the extreme point of the city,
just at the termination of Manhatten Island, and
the confluence of the East and Hudson Rivers:
b 636
its position* as a place of pleasurable resort* is
delightful; and* from its commanding situation* it
must* when required* form an excellent post of
defence. Long may it continue to be the resort of
the votaries of pleasure!
Broadway is the fashionable lounge for all the
black and white belles and beaux of the city; its
commodious and extensive pave, completely
covered with neat awnings* forms as agreeable a
promenade* as is to be found* perhaps* in any city
in the world. Many a transatlantic poet has
endeavoured to immortalize this noble walk* and
its glittering pedestrians; but no one has suc-
ceeded in prevailing upon Pegassus to use the
trottoir of Broadway.
Nearly parallel with Broadway* are several
other streets* and these again* are connected with
others* which intersect them at right angles.
The relative position of the streets in the old*
or southern part of the city, is somewhat con-
fused; but nothing can exceed the regularity* with
which the upper part is disposed; as a reference
to the plan will sufficiently testify. About a mile
up Broadway* is the Park. This is a small37
enclosure* of a few acres; encircled with an iron
railing* divided into walks* planted with trees*
furnished with seats* and made* every way* as
agreeable as it is possible to make a small oasis of
verdure* situated in the centre of a populous city.
At the upper end of the Park* stands the pride of
New York—the City Hall. It is a fine marble
structure; but it did not strike me* as possessing
that magnificent appearance* that I expected* from
a building composed entirely of marble. But
tastes differ. One of our company* on this occa-
sion* related an anecdote of an Irish gentlemen* to
whom he had offered his services to conduct round
the city. After surveying several of the public
buildings* and streets presenting architectural at-
tractions* and the Irishman had dismissed each* in
succession with this remark* “ Very good* indeed*
but not like Dublin*"—he was brought* suddenly*
to a full view of the City Hall. The Hibernian
appeared struck with astonishment* and* un-
guardedly exclaimed* “ But was this built here?"
There are several buildings of white marble* in
various parts of the city: some* also of brick* hand-
somely faced with Jersey free-stone* have a very38
genteel and substantial appearance. The air of
newness pervading the whole city, never fails to
arrest the attention of the stranger, and excite
admiration. Indeed, the whole of the buildings
present so clean an exterior, that they seem as if
just finished. This is accounted for, by the ab-
sence of coal smoke, that impartial enemy to
architectural beauty, in the iC old country,” as
they here term England.
Although fashion has declared in favour of
coal, yet wood is the chief, and, indeed, almost the
only article of fuel, consumed here; it is certainly
much healthier and cleaner, than its sable substi-
tute, but the matter of dollars and cents has in-
influenced the decision.
There are not more than two areas that can,
with propriety, be denominated “ Squares.” One
of these, Hudson Square, is formed by a collection
of very elegant houses, and has an enclosure, sur-
rounded by an ornamental railing of iron work;
planted with trees, and, altogether, as handsomely
laid out, as any square, I remember to have seen,
in London. It is situated in the most fashionable
part of the city; though, perhaps, the buildings39
may be rivalled in architectural ornament, by the
south end of Broadway.
The number of superb houses is very great:
though, it must be confessed, their uniformity
greatly detracts from the effect they would, under
other circumstances, produce. They appear all to
be built upon one plan; the chief feature of which,
is, that the dining and drawing rooms are situated
on the lower floor, and, so arranged, as by throwing
open a large pair of folding doors, to form one
splendid apartment. This peculiarity is generally
admired by the French, but disapproved of by the
English. Their furniture is magnificent in the
extreme. In this, as 'well as all other household
embellishments, the natives pride themselves: and
succeed to admiration, in their attempts to produce
a brilliant effect.
The Exchange is now no more. It was de-
stroyed by the large fire of November, 1835. As
it was rather too small for the growing prosperity
of the city, I have no doubt, its place will be sup-
plied by one better calculated to serve the pur-
poses of the increasing commerce of the city.
The amount of property consumed by this40
calamity was very great; and, our astonishment
is increased, when we consider the smallness of
the space, that formed the scene of this conflagra-
tion. I understand the whole of the warehouses,
banks and stores consumed, did not cover more
than two acres of ground. But this spot was the
richest in the Union; and perhaps, no space,
equally small, contained combustible riches of
corresponding value: the bazaar of Constantinople,
alone excepted.
The buildings for the celebration of public
worship, are generally denominated “ churches;^
I conceive this uniformity of designation is caused
by the absence of an established religion. St.
PauPs, in Broadway, a Protestant episcopal church,
is the principal ecclesiastical edifice in the city.
It is a plain modem structure, composed of free-
stone, with a steeple of the same material; the
east end is ornamented by a colonnade, supporting
a pediment, with a statue of St. Paul. The whole
is well disposed, and produces an agreeable effect;
but the interior is merely plain and neat, without
any pretensions whatever to splendour. This
church has the advantage of a burial ground, a41
convenience, by no means general throughout
the city.
All the other churches are composed of either
brick or red granite, and appear to be erected
without any design whatever, to add to the beauty
of the city, by a display of architectural grandeur.
There are neither domes nor towers; the steeples
are by no means lofty, and from the elevation of
the surrounding dwellings, they seem lower than
they are in reality. Each of these erections,
shelters one bell, or at most two; and when all
these are in united operation on a sabbath morn-
ing, the universal clanking may be conceived to be
any thing but harmonious.
There are very few public clocks and no
chimes, I understand, there is not a single ring
of bells throughout the United States.
The interior of the various churches has a neat
and comfortable aspect; in winter the aisles are
carpeted, the seats well cushioned, and the whole
presents an agreeable parlour-like appearance.
Almost every sect and denomination of religion
has its temple and its,supporters; but, it must be
conceded, that the most respectable part of the42
citizens attend the Protestant episcopal churches;
and the proportion, in this city, is acknowledged
to correspond with that of the larger towns in
England.
There are no less than fourteen Public Schools;
and, how many Sunday Schools, I suppose, no
tongue can tell; unless, it be declared by some of
those amiable individuals, who zealously devote
their time and property to support and conduct
them, which they effect in a manner highly cre-
ditable to their feelings and exertions.
There are two principal Theatres, the Park and
the Bowery; besides a number of minor ones,
continually springing up and declining. The
Blacks, who are never behind hand in rivalling
their superiors, contrive to keep open one, and
sometimes two theatres; where the characters of
Lady Macbeth, Juliet, and the fair Desdemona,
with a number of others, are all well sustained by
by the sable sisterhood. A lively inmate of our
boarding-house, amused us one morning at break-
fast, with an account of his last night’s entertain-
ment at the “ Black Theatre;55 where a sable
“ Richard55 was the point of attraction. In order43
to please his audience, the “ crooked-backed
Monarch” politely accommodated his language to
the meridian of the place: whenever the word
“ York” occurred, he invariably altered the text,
and called it “ New York!”—The “ house” of
“ New York,” &c. In this instance, the fair
ladies were personated by negresses!
The votaries of the sock and buskin are here
more caressed, and meet with greater encourage-
ment than in any other part of the world. The
two principal theatres, although very spacious
buildings, are generally well crowded.
The American Museum cannot boast of a col-
lection of curiosities and antiquities, corresponding
to its high sounding designation: it is chiefly sup-
ported by the admission funds.
Rents are here much higher than in London.
On investigation, I suppose, the value of building
ground in the lower part of this city, would be
exceeded in price, by no area of equal dimensions
in England—perhaps not in the world. The
whole of the mercantile business is transacted in
that part of the city, which lies below the Park.
On inspecting the plan, the reader will perceive,44
that the only direction in which land can be
obtained, is upwards, that is to the north: and,
as this is allowed, by men of business, to be out of
the market, the merchant must either have his
offices below the City Hall, or be altogether ex-
cluded. The value of land, in this section, being
exorbitantlyr increased by competition, and the
desire of all, who have business to transact, to
be as near the market as possible; joined to the
scarcity of room; conspires to raise the price of
land to an extravagant height, in every part of
the city.
It is considered probable, that New York will,
at some future period, cover the whole of Man-
hatten Island. The village of Brooklyn, on the
opposite coast of Long Island, and Jersey City,
on the western bank of the Hudson, are also be-
coming very populous from their proximity to this
grand market of the Union. A well regulated
communication by steam is kept up, with these
two out-ports of commerce; a boat starts for the
former every three minutes, and, for the latter,
every ten minutes, during the day.
New York is, beyond dispute, the first com-45
mercial city in the New World* and receives into
its ports* vessels* laden with the produce and
manufactures of every quarter of the globe. But
the retail department of trade is here conducted
in a slovenly and a most irregular manner. It is
advisable* for the buyer* to be acquainted with the
value of the article he intends to purchase* before
he closes his bargain; or he will run the risk of
paying a penalty proportionable to his ignorance.
From the immense number of sales by auction*
that part of the inhabitants having family establish-
ments* and other extensive consumers* supply
themselves from these* as frequently as possible.
These sales are effected in the lower part of the
city; and a red banner displayed* serves as an
insigne of an auction sale in this city* as a spear
answered the same purpose in ancient Rome.
It is true* that goods sold in this manner* are
disposed of in very large quantities* as these sales
are expected to be frequented only by shop-
keepers; but this difficulty is frequently obviated*
by a few families uniting* and entering into a
reciprocal engagement* to make purchases of
certain articles agreed upon* on account of the46
compact, whenever advantageously practicable.
The high prices demanded in the shops, almost
drive the public to resort to this expedient in
self defence.
There are, nevertheless, a vast number of good
shops, and without doubt many are substantial and
highly respectable; but still, I never could heartily
admire their system of transacting business: it
required an Englishwoman to be so provokingly
cautious and suspicious, if she wished to prevent
the Yankees from being “ too smart” for her. A
term they use triumphantly on every fresh display
of low trickery.
Some few, however, make very odd kind of
bargains at these auctions. I remember, one of our
friends, a young gentleman,purchasing at an auction,
three hundred fans! This reminded me of Moses, in
the “ Vicar of Wakefield,” and the gross of green
spectacles. But simplicity is far from being fa-
shionable in this part of the world, and poor
Moses would have stood no better chance here,
than in the hands of Ephraim Jenkinson.
Perhaps there are not, proportionably, a
greater number of sharpers here, than in London:47
but there is certainly a marked difference in their
treatment. The smile of approbation, bestowed
upon a clever villain, when relating his witty
rogueries, is shockingly misplaced; and is, indeed,
a species of moral cowardice. A severe castiga-
tion would serve the interests of society much
more effectually. Indeed, it were better to lead
the life of an anchoret at once, than to associate
with such characters, as I have here seen admitted
into the company of merchants, judges, and pro-
fessional men. But, alas! “ business purposes/*
is a convenient excuse; and too often serves, as a
mantle to cover, if it cannot hide, a multitude
of sins.
I cheerfully admit, that there are many honour-
able exceptions; and certainly many individuals
are to be found, of exalted virtue and unflinching
integrity, who view the prevailing fashion of ap-
plauding villany, with feelings of indignation and
regret.
To my great surprise, on the other hand, I
found the crime of smuggling held in utter abhor-
rence. I rejoice at this, and from all I observed,
I think it would be exceedingly difficult to find an48
American, that could be prevailed upon, to engage
in a smuggling transaction of ever so trivial a
nature. To cheat “ Uncle Sam,” as they term their
government, is with them, a crime paramount!
And they never fail to treat those foreigners
among them, with ineffable contempt, who are so
perfidious as to defraud their own governments.
I have heard instances of some of our British
sharp fellows being sadly taken by surprise,
through ignorance of this peculiarity of their
national character.
Without hesitation, I allow, that every species
of villany ought to meet with the unmitigated
condemnation of all just men. How is it then
that these, who regard roguery with such indiffer-
ence, when practised on private individuals—nay,
smile with approbation, if the transaction be asso-
ciated with any thing witty—should single out the
vice of smuggling, as the only one that deserves
their exclusive reprobation? I leave the question
open; but the general opinion is, that as this
crime is regarded, by far too many on this side the
Atlantic, as a venial offence; it is placed on the
criminal code of “ Uncle Sam,” through a pure
love of onoosition.49
This appellation: “ Uncle Sam/* is willingly
acknowledged, as the national nick-name of the
“ free-born citizens of the United States/* while,
on the other hand, the terms, “ Brother Jonathan**
and ce Yankee/* are received with disapprobation;
and, by some, with great offence. I beg leave to
present my readers, with a verbatim copy from an
American newspaper, of the baptism of this
independent personage; together with a descrip-
tion of his sponsors, who gave him that name.
Immediately after the declaration of the last war
with England, Elbert Anderson, Esq. of this city, then
a contractor, visited Troy, on the Hudson, where was
concentrated, and where he purchased a large quantity
of provisions—beef, pork, &c. The inspectors of these
articles, at that place, were Messrs. Ebenezer and
Samuel Wilson. The latter gentleman (invariably known
as “ Uncle Sam”) generally superintended in person a
large number of workmen, who, on this occasion, were
employed in overhauling the provisions purchased by the
contractor for the army. The casks were marked
E. A.-—U. S. This work fell to the lot of a facetitious
fellow in the employ of the Messrs. Wilsons, who, on
being asked by some of his fellow-workmen the meaning
of the mark (for the letters U. S. for United States
were almost then entirely new to them,) said, “ he did
c50
not know, unless it meant Elbert Anderson and Uncle
Sam”—alluding exclusively, then, to the said “ Uncle
Sam” Wilson. The joke took among the workmen,
and passed currently; and “ Uncle Sam” himself being
present, was occasionally rallied by them on the in-
creasing extent of his possessions. Many of these
workmen being of a character denominated “ food for
powder,” were found shortly after following the re-
cruiting drum, and pushing toward the frontier lines,
for the double purpose of meeting the enemy, and of
eating the provisions they had lately laboured to put in
good order. Their old jokes of course accompanied
them, and, before the first campaign ended, this identi-
cal one first appeared in print—it gained favour rapidly,
till it penetrated and was recognised in every part of our
country, and will, no doubt, continue so long as U. S.
remains a nation. It originated precisely as above
stated; and the writer of this article distinctly recollects
remarking, at the time when it first appeared in print,
to a person who was equally aware of its origin, how
odd it would be, should this silly joke, originating in the
midst of beef, pork, pickle, mud, salt, and hoop-poles,
eventually become a national cognomen.
When a foreigner decides upon remaining in
the United States, and wishes to be naturalized, he
first “ declares his intentions;^ that is, he has his
name enrolled in the national records, and receives
documents, which will, at the expiration of five51
years,, if he reside in the States during that period,
entitle him to the full privileges of a native. The
expences of this ceremony will not amount to more
than five dollars.
Whenever I speak of the Americans, I wish to
be understood to mean the native, and naturalized
citizens of the United States; for the latter, from a
kind of sympathy, soon assume the feelings and
actions of the former.
The immense number of emigrants invest the
city, with the appearance of a miscellaneous speci-
men of human beings from all quarters of the
world; yet there is a sufficient majority of native
inhabitants, fully to establish a nationality of cha-
racter. By the best information I could obtain,
one-fourth of the city are natives of Ireland; and,
I think, that all other foreigners may be comprised
in one-sixth of the remainder: these, with 20,000
negroes, taken from the gross population returns,
will leave 85,000 native citizens. This may be
about a correct estimate; but it is really a very
difficult question to answer correctly, the statistical
accounts are so much at variance.
c 252
Generally speaking, the Irish meet with a
much better reception than the English; so in-
deed, do all other foreigners: for the natives bear
a kind of family grudge against John Bull, and it
has long been fashionable, for many to evince their
patriotism, by discharging their resentment on the
English; whom they consider as being more espe-
cially his legitimate offspring.53
CHAPTER III.
RESIDENCES IN NSW YORE.-FIRES.—NEGROES-
BOARDINO BOUSES -DRESS.
Fires are here alarmingly numerous; and fre-
quently of unprecedented magnitude. The Fire-
men are a body of volunteers, amounting to about
three hundred. They are viewed, by their fellow
citizens, as a class of respectable men; and, as
occupying a station, somewhat similar to our local
cavalry. They execute their arduous duties, and
supply their own clothes, &c. without any remu-
neration; except the municipal privileges, with
which they are rewarded, at the completion of their
term of five, or seven years. I endeavoured to
discover, if possible, what was the chief cause of
these fires; but could arrive at no positive conclu-
sion on the subject. I conceive the half smoked
cigars, so plentifully disseminated in every direc-
tion, by men of all ages, conditions, and colours, may
be one reason; and, I know of no other, unless
c 354
it be the carelessness naturally produced by the
eternal use of the spirit decanter.
The rates and premiums of Insurance Compa-
nies are perhaps higher here, than in any other part
of the world; yet, in consequence of the numerous
demands made upon them, these public bodies are
continually failing. Custom reconciles us to all
things ; and fires are here so common, that they
have no idea of the sensations such calamities pro-
duce with us. An English gentleman ventured to
state, in public company, that in a large market
town, near the place of his birth, he only recol-
lected one fire occurring in the space of above
twenty years. Although I have no doubt of the
truth of this assertion; yet, it was received by those
present, with marks of suspicion, so glaringly
evident, that I felt sorry that he had hazarded his
credit for veracity, without calculating upon the
chances of producing proof.
Strange as it may appear, during our residence
in New York, and in the country, I never heard
any well authenticated case of death, occasioned
by any of these fires: although, first, from motives
of humanity, and, afterwards, from those of curio-55
sity; we constantly subjected this matter to a very
close investigation; and we were there, during the
destruction of those immense buildings, the Bow-
ery and the La Fayette Theatres, and private
houses without number. This appeared to me
the more astonishing, because it is well known,
that in Europe, loss of life is too frequently
the melancholy accompaniment of these awful
visitations.
An English milliner assured me, that she had
been burned out three times, in the short space of
eleven months; and, as she kept a shop, she had
suffered much in pecuniary matters. I felt for her,
and mentioned it as a circumstanee singularly
melancholy, for a friendless stranger; but it was
received with an indifference, that convinced me it
was no uncommon occurrence.
I noticed some of their many fire engines; they
are very handsome, and very, very small. They
are universally acknowledged to be more powerful
than ours. Indeed, the good citizens are very loud
in their praises, and claim the honour of some
inventions, or improvements connected with them;
and I will not pluck a single leaf, or acorn, from56
their civic crown* for which they have so dearly
paid: but will cheerfully acknowledge* that their
engines are kept in better condition* than any
other in the world.
They have hit upon a very ingenious device to
direct the firemen* to that part of the city* where
their assistance is required* Those who first give
the alarm* hasten to the City Hall* whose site
occupies the highest ground in the city. The
heavy alarm bell is rung immediately* and is re-
echoed by most of the ting-tangs in the steeples.
A ball of crimson glass* containing a light* is
quickly exposed at the very apex of the observatory
on the hall; and its position* serves as an index
to point out the direction of the fire.
It is impossible to convey an exact idea of the
frequency and magnitude of these awful incidents.
From the flat roof of our residence* one evening* I
saw three fires at the same time; two of them
appeared to be of considerable magnitude; the
other was only an oil and turpentine store. This
united demand upon the exertions of the firemen*
was very perplexing to all parties. The people at
the City Hall were undecided in what direction57
to place their crimson index; and so, with a view
of directing to all the three points, they kept per-
petually shifting it. The firemen, consequently,
kept altering their course, in a corresponding
direction to that pointed out by the ball; till the
confusion became so general, that fears were en-
tertained for the safety of the city. At length, the
municipal authorities sent messengers, who sought
out the firemen, and dispersed them in the proper
directions; and thus happily averted the dreaded
consequences.
The removing of wooden houses, with brick
chimney-stacks, en masse, is so commonly effected
here, that to question its practicability, would be
the height of absurdity: yet, I understand, even
this is treated with us, as a ridiculous affair, and as
a matter altogether impossible. How then can I
hope for belief, in asserting, that there are sub-
stantial brick houses of four stories high, in the
city of New York, that have been removed, from
one side of the street to the other, without, in the
least degree, impeding the diurnal domestic ar-
rangements of their respective inmates? I will
make no such assertion—I will only state, that58
such houses have been pointed out to me, and
described as having been removed from a station
on the opposite side of the street; and, I confess,
I am sufficiently weak to believe it. I will, there-
fore, content myself, with inserting one of the
many advertisements I have seen, which I copy
from the New York Gazette, now before me; and
leaving my readers to conclude as they think
proper, will dismiss the subject.
The Subscriber respectfully informs the public,
that he carries on, extensively, the business of
MOVING HOUSES
of any description: and with the utmost expedition and
safety; having every necessary apparatus for the purpose.
J. ACKERMAN.
220, Division-st., Sept. 22.
This removing of houses reminds me of the re-
moval of household furniture, which annually takes
place on the first of May. By an established cus-
tom, the houses are let, from this day, for the
term of one year certain: and, as the inhabitants,
in general, love variety, and seldom reside in the
same house for two consecutive years; those who
have to change, which appears to be nearly the59
whole city, must, consequently, be all removing
together.
Hence, from the peep of day, till twilight, may
be seen carts, which go at a rate of speed astonish-
ingly rapid, laden with furniture of every kind,
both costly and otherwise; racing up and down the
city, as if its inhabitants were flying from a pesti-
lence, pursued by death, with his broad scythe,
just ready to mow them into eternity.
I found the negroes much more numerous, and
presenting a much better appearance, than I ever
expected; and, I am happy to say, they are now all
free, in this, and the five New England States, and
have been so for upwards of five years. They
invariably excite a feeling of deep interest in the
minds of all Europeans. But I beheld, with acute
sensations of sorrow, their late task-masters, re-
garding them with feelings of hatred, mingled with
contempt; and, like the Cagots in the Pyrenees, as
a class below the rest of the human species in mental
endowments. I was not prepared to find this in a
nation, who are taught to lisp, with their infantile
breath, that monstrous falsehood—e< All men are
born free and equal/*60
This maxim is the pole star of the republic,
and was first promulgated by Thomas Jefferson,
whpse writings are acknowledged, as the standard
of authority, by the Democratic party. At the
commencement of the present century, he filled
the office of President of the United States, for
the period of eight years; and his memory is still
held, by the Americans, in deep veneration. Yet,
it is well known here, that this sublime character,
had, by his Quadroon slaves, a vast number of
children of both sexes; whom he retained, on his
estate, during his life, in a state of vassallage, and
dying, left them so!!
It is with no feelings of pleasure, that I drag
the crimes of this atrocious wretch before the
public; but, I believe, this fact is not known in
England; and it may serve to give some idea of
the charming things that are transacted in those
regions of slavery, where both the framer and the
violator of the law, are found united in the per-
son of the planter.
The existing slavery of these “ free and inde-
pendent” States, combined with the atrocious
conduct of Jefferson, the progenitor of whole61
gangs of slaves, forms a beautiful comment on
his favourite apothegm.
“ All men are born free and equal.”
An expression which declares exactly the same
doctrine, occupies a prominent position in their
national manifesto; the famous Declaration of
Independence.
The projectors of this their magna charta,
must have known, that this motto was founded on
a fallacious basis, and would not endure the touch-
stone of common sense. Were the base-born
progeny of that “ illustrious champion of liberty/*
Jefferson, born free, and endowed with equal
privileges, to the children of his amiable con-
temporary, Hamilton*? Are the sons of those
slaves,1 who now groan in fetters, in the southern
states of this “ land of liberty/* born free and
with equal rights, to the children of those Molochs,
their masters? A common understanding revolts
at fhe comparison. Away with such sophistry, to
the dark dominions of that being, whence it
emanated!
I regard this, not as a political affair, but
* General Hamilton, a man much esteemed for his virtues.
D63
education, than a depraved disposition. I have
frequently conversed with the females, and have
always found them remarkably civil, and grateful
for any trivial kindness. They express themselves
in good language; and with an enunciation, as bold
and clear as any Englishman we commonly hear.
This struck me with surprise, as I had formed my
judgement of their conversational capabilities, from
the dialogues given in broken English, that I had
met with, in the course of my reading. In singing,
their voices are rich and melodious; and, when
they sing in chorus, the effect is truly delightful.
At church, their singing is much admired, but all
those that I ever saw there, sat by themselves; and
I never heard of white a man, however low in sta-
tion he might be, that would here sit at the
same table with a black one.	;
There is something peculiarly interesting in
the appearance of their children, when between
the ages of three and eight. I know not by what
laws, blackness of skin and sinuosity of hair,
should, when associated, produce an effect at once
both droll and agreeable. But such is the case in
an uncommon degree. All European ladies, with
n 264
whom I conversed* acknowledged this; and even
the Americans were compelled to allow* that these
sable Psyches* and Cupids of the kitchen were
very amusing.
But I soon found, that to converse in accents
of kindness* with negroes* was not the way to
secure the estimation of American society: it is
considered shockingly coarse and vulgar. On
some occasions* the negro children themselves
have stood in mute astonishment* while I have
patted the head of one of their companions; and
such an action has sometimes produced a remark*
on the strange taste* that could influence a lady*
to take so much notice of such creatures.
A fracas took place* one day* at our boarding-
house* arising out of a dispute between two gen-
tlemen; the one a German* and the other an
American. In the heat of argument* the German
expressed himself thus: u I will wager a hundred
dollars* that I produce a negro that is a better
calculator than you.”—The American rose in
high anger* and immediately left the room; de-
claring that he would not sit at the same table
with any one* who esteemed him no better than a62
purely as a ease of Liberty and Equality* versus
Negro Slavery and Oppression. And* were it not
for the sake of humanity* I should have regarded
the whole with indifference; and have left the
Americans* to shout praises to the goddess of
Liberty* with as much clamour* as did the Ephe-
sians of old* to their good customer* the goddess
Diana.
This despised class* the Negroes* seem to
be regarded as being destitute of the common
sensibilities of nature. They are considered as
fair subjects for the bitterest sarcasm and con-
tempt. Children* catching the contagion of ex-
ample* by sympathy* regard them as beings* that
may be annoyed and insulted with impunity;
dogs are encouraged to bark at them; and* as a
crowning point* parrots are trained to curse them.
I could scarcely believe this* but I know one
elegant house* where a bird of this kind was
much admired* for the charming accomplishment
of thundering a degrading curse at the head of
every passing negro.
Besides their intellectual deficiencies* they are
charged with a long catalogue of moral misdoings*
which more properly spring from a neglected65
negro. He removed to another house the same
day, with all possible precipitation. The general
opinion was, that the proposal of the German was
most degrading; and, I doubt not, a more fashion-
able expression of resentment, would have met
with unequivocal applause.
Until the Americans consent entirely to loose
the yoke, and let the oppressed go free; they
should cashier the stars and stripes, and adopt the
following device and motto, which would more
effectually represent the motly character of their
Republic.
Let this device be, the representation of a man,
wearing' the cap of liberty, and holding a slave
whip in his right hand, while his left displays the
K Declaration of Independencehis right foot, at
the same time, resting on the naked back of a
prostrate negro.—With this motto:
“ All men are born free and equal.’*
Negro slavery is the foulest blot on the cha-
racter of the American government, and their
spiteful treatment of those, who have obtained
their freedom, represents the “ free borns^ in an
ungracious^ point of view. It justifies a stranger
d 366
in concluding* that the strong arm of compulsion
has wrested these oppressed creatures from their
iron grasp; and that* like the Egyptians of old*
their bond-slaves have departed much against their
will. What! are these blacks indebted to their neigh-
bours? and is it for the purpose of obtaining satis-
faction* that all classes unite in heaping reproaches
on their heads? Truth compels me to declare* that
the Christian whites owe to their sable brethren*
a debt* that they can never* never liquidate; and
those* who have laboured to rivet their galling
fetters* will answer for it in that day* when the
most abject negro in the States* shall shine in the
splendour of a coronation garment.
But a haughty spirit of contemptuousness*
seems to prevail among those* in whose breasts*
dulness and ill nature are predominant. Thus
the Americans* of this order* despise the English;
the resident English despise the Irish; the Irish
unite with all the rest* in despising the Negroes:
whom these despise* I cannot tell* but probably
all the rest together.
A magnanimous mind will seek out no excuse*
for treating the defenceless with cruel contempt;67
and, while I freely admit, the vanity of these
negroes is boundless, I contend, it is not to be
cured by an indiscriminate administration of ill
treatment. Their advance in civilization will be
marked by a corresponding contempt for these
frivolities, which they now so much admire, and,
no doubt, they will ultimately lay aside.
A peep into a negro ball room, as at present
conducted, would certainly provoke the risibility
of a philosopher. I, myself, was never so highly
favoured, but shall present my readers with a
description, given by a gentleman, just observing,
from what I have seen of their mode of dressing
on occasions of festivity, that I believe the re-
presentation to be correct.—“ Dark dandies, so
starched and stayed, as to appear perfectly inflexi-
ble, with their poor heads beaming with all the
lustre that Rowland^ Macassar can dispense, and
dressed in the very tip of fashion, may here be
seen, paying their devoirs to their sable belles.
These, arrayed in fashionables fresh from France:
the articles of dress themselves preposterous, and
ill adapted to display the attractions of the wearers,
by their tasteless combination, magnify the ab-68
surdity ten-fold. Here, some nymph, assuming:
the name of Thalia or Aurora, may be observed,
with fingers, ears and wrists, ringed and jewelled
with a sample of all the tinsel trumpery of Bir-
mingham; on her head waves a huge plume of
white ostrich feathers; while her dark ancles are
rendered dimly visible through a pair of British
flesh-coloured silk stockings; and her waist so
tightly compressed, as to give to her figure, the
contour of an hour glass/*—Poor creatures! they
will some day know better—till then, these things
may be regarded with the passing tribute of a
smile.
Respecting this treatment of negroes, by their
former owners, the whites of America, I desire to
be understood as speaking in general terms. Some,
I know, have kind masters, but all general rules
admit of individual exceptions. That negro enjoys
a great advantage, who lives under kind superiors;
but, if his race be held in contempt by the whole
neighbourhood, he has still the mortifying consci-
ousness of knowing that, as long as he retains
his colour, so long will he be obnoxious to indig-
nity and insult.69
From the number of arguments I have listened
to on the subject of “ The mental peculiarities of
Negroes/5 I cannot subscribe to what is here the
general opinion;—that they are deficient in the
reasoning powers, and higher sentiments of the
mind. All that can be proved on this side the
question is, that these powers cannot be called
into vigorous operation, so instantaneously as with
Europeans. But, surely, this is nothing more
than a deficiency in their cultivation, and cannot be
adduced as a proof of the absence of those powers
themselves. The occasional appearance of talented
individuals, and the frequent manifestations of
good dispositions, among the negroes, must decide
this question; for it might, with equal justice, be
asserted, that every individual amongst us is
entirely destitute of reason, that is not blessed
with the mind of a Newton or a Locke.
It will be admitted, that the following lines,
written above half a century ago, by a child
of this long-degraded race, are equal to many
that appear in the present day. And, when it
is considered, that the writer was only in her
sixteenth year, they will be viewed as a proof70
of early intelligence* seldom surpassed among
ourselves.
Lines written by a Negro Girl on the Death of
a Young Gentleman.
Who taught thee conflict with the powers of night,
To vanquish Satan in the fields of fight?
Who strung thy feeble arms with might unknown ?
How great thy conquest, and how bright thy crown!
War with each princedom, throne, and power is o’er,
The scene is ended, to return no more.
Oh, could my muse, thy seat on high behold,
How decked with laurel and enriched with gold!
Oh, could she hear what praise tby harp employs,
How sweet thine anthems, how divine thy joys;
What heavenly grandeur should exalt her strain!
What holy raptures in her numbers reign!
To soothe the troubles of the mind to peace,
To still the tumult of life’s tossing seas,
To ease the anguish of the parent’s heart,
What shall my sympathizing verse impart?
Where is the balm to heal so deep a wound?
Where shall a sovereign remedy be found?
Look, gracious spirit! from thy heavenly bower,
And thy full joys into their bosoms pour:
The raging tempest of their griefs control,
And spread the dawn of glory through the soul;
To eye the path the saint departed trod,
And trace him to the bosom of his God.71
The greater part of the negroes are servants
still; those of them that are steady, get excellent
wages—from eight to twelve dollars per month,
for a man; and from six to ten for a woman.
Those who are not in service, chiefly wander about
the city, carrying their apparatus for sawing wood
for fuel, and, as they are seldom employed for a
longer period than two hours together, this is an
idle kind of life. Although they are the hewers
of wood, and drawers of water, to the whole com-
munity, they are not generally over-worked.
Under existing circumstances, they are not likely
to rise in the scale of society: I did not notice a
negro, among the hundreds of carmen, employed
in this city.
This numerous class, the carmen, keep each
a horse and cart, which they own and drive; and,
as the merchants keep neither horses nor vehicles,
they do all the commercial transportation work
in the city. They are not hired by any particular
employer, for any specified time, but, like hackney
coachmen, are called when required. Their carts
are much lighter than ours; and with the assistance
of four movable posts and a chain, they contrive72
to dispense with both sides and ends* Their
horses are generally very good; they appear as
light, and, when occasion requires, are as swift as
our coach horses.
The heavier kind of goods are usually deposed
in smaller packages, and the whole of the business
equipage seems, to my judgement, much lighter
and more convenient than with us. Their porters,
carmen, and helpers of all kinds move with greater
alacrity; and although, I admit I am no judge in
such matters, I consider the Americans surpass
us in these affairs.
The hackney coaches here are very good,
though very dear. The plague of bargaining with
the driver, which must always be done before
hand, to prevent imposition, which, after all, it is
next to impossible to avoid; compels not only
strangers, but frequently the elite of the city, to
dispense with their services.
The vessels of all descriptions appear much
cleaner and handsomer than those of ours; and
this superiority is maintained, through all classes,
from a Liverpool Packet to a Long Island market
boat. A Yankee vessel, see her where you may,73
can be told among a thousand others; she lies
upon the water like a swan, and, in the midst of
shipping, from all nations, she looks like a swal-
low, among other birds.
Their steam ships are also very large, and most
beautifully fitted up and furnished. But now a
passage across the Atlantic may be effected by
steam, the naval affairs of the whole world will,
perhaps, undergo a complete revolution: yet this
would be more speedily effected, were the steam
apparatus perfectly free from danger.
The city is well supplied with provisions of
every kind. On a fair average, they are about
half the price that they are with us; though the
markets here are subject to considerable fluctua-
tions. They are procured every morning from
the city markets; the two principal of which are
the Washington and the Fulton; and these are
again supplied, most plentifully, from the. country,
with every thing the land produces in all parts of
the Union: together with fish, in the greatest per-
fection and abundance.
The inhabitants, during the winter, provi-
dentially secure a good supply of ice for summer
£t
74
use. Insignificant as this article may appear to
us who seldom use it, even as a luxury; it is an
object of paramount importance, in a city, where
the thermometer ranges, for four months in the
year, between eighty and a hundred degrees.
During this broiling season, neither meat, fish,
poultry, milk, nor butter, could be preserved
without its cooling influence: and as a luxury, at
such a season, it is grateful beyond conception.
One of the principal sources of domestic dis-
quietude, in this part of the world, arises from
servants. Whether this be the result of the peculiar
form of the American government or no, I pretend
not to determine; but, most certainly, the saying
of Jefferson is as well known by this class, as their
own proper names, by some of them it is as fre-
quently repeated, and is taken advantage of by all.
If a lady requires a servant, she usually makes her
wants known, at one of the many register offices,
that abound in the city; or she sends an adver-
tisement to the newspaper office, which will be
inserted for an English shilling. In either case,
she is sure of having a numerous assemblage, from
which she can make a selection. The applicants75
will seem innumerable, comprising individuals of
almost every nation under heaven, but chiefly from
Ireland: and it will be a wonder, if any one
among them, have lived in her last place more than
a month. As to character, the whole affair ge-
nerally proves a farce. I, myself, could never
obtain any thing more than a mere outline.
I cannot well conceive how servants can be
more fickle than they are here. Their love of
liberty prompts them to change their places, almost
as frequently as they change their dresses; and, as
to equality, they always demand a seat at the same
table with the heads of the family, in the country;
and, in some instances, in the city. Seldom,
indeed, can a girl be prevailed upon to remain on
the premises after tea time; for, as her mistress
spends the evening out whenever she pleases, the
girl thinks she cannot do better than imitate her
example. But, the latter frequently forgets to
return at the time appointed, and the worst of it
is, want of punctuality, arising from this cause,
is not always the greatest inconvenience. But, I
forget myself—servants they will not submit to be
called; this term is especially resisted by the free-
e 276
bom sisterhood; they are, therefore, denominated
“ helps,” “ helpers;” or hands.
So much for a single servant; and a plurality
is sure to increase the perplexity. I was frequently
reminded of that saying of Old Elwes, “ If you
keep one servant, your work is done; if you keep
two, it is half done; but if three are kept, you may
do it yourself.” Yet, the first section of this
aphorism, does not correctly apply fiere; for the
work of a mistress is never completely done here,
by either one servant or more, and must, in many
parts, for ever go undone, unless she do it herself.
The perplexity arising from servants, has influ-
enced many small families to prefer residing, from
year to year, in a boarding-house. Although this
custom appears very singular, at first, as do all
domestic arrangements with which we are unac-
quainted: yet, I must confess, it has its recom-
mendations, and, upon the whole, I liked it as well
in America, as occupying a house of my own. As
our apartments in Beekman-street were not, in all
respects, suited to our convenience, we removed to
a boarding-house, situated in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of Broadway, where we were provided77
with permanent accommodation; and here we re-
mained during our continuance in the city. The
inmates of the house have, of course, their own
sleeping rooms; and these, in number, according
to the size of the party, or the kind of accommo-
dation desired. The whole company, with the
exception of the children, assemble in the public
room at meal times; besides which, there is a
public sitting room; and, should a private apart-
ment be required, to indulge in converse with a
friend, or for any other temporary purpose, it can
generally be obtained.
The order of the house is (for in describing
one, I describe all,) to breakfast in summer, at
eight; dine, at two; and take tea at six, The
breakfast table is furnished with tea, coffee, and
chocolate, and viands of various kinds, both hot
and cold, and also with fish and fruit when in
season. Dinner presents nothing remarkable; the
table is supplied with much about the same fare as
with us, only with a little more attention to variety.
Tea is the last repast, and a massive one it is.
Besides tea and coffee, and a second edition of the
substantial cold fare that furnished at the breakfast
e 378
table, there are sweetmeats and preserves in every
variety, with a countless array of cakes, the very
naming of which, would exhibit a confectioner’s
catalogue; and mellons, or pine apples, when in
season, bring up the rear. After this, what more
is required? Being accustomed to take supper in
Europe, we fancied we required it here, and were
accommodated, but, as we found we were the only
party who partook of that meal, we felt somewhat
uncomfortable, and learned, in course of time, to
adopt the custom of our neighbours, which we
found by experience, in this respect, at least, to be
preferable to our own.
The quality of the fare provided is usually of
the very best.# I have often thought that the
Americans, as a nation, sacrifice the pleasures of
intellectual taste, to mere animal gratification; and
notwithstanding the variety displayed at their
repasts, I found it difficult to make a selection of
food sufficiently plain, for myself and my children.
They rally us on our partiality for the pleasures of
the table, and we receive it with hearty good
nature; but really the national joke of the roast
beef of old England, comes with a very bad grace79
from Americans. Like all other establishments,
boarding houses are various in character. They
differ very little from each other in the fare they
provide, and their regulations; but the description
of the house, and the terms, are considered a
just criterion of the circumstances and quality of
the company they entertain. The terms are of
every variety, from three dollars per week to—I
know not what sum. My husband and myself paid
a hundred dollars per month; in this sum, I have
not included any thing connected with the children.
Perhaps, some may think the mention of this an
unnecessary parade of personality. My reason for
it is this. I have so often heard individuals, who
have written on America, charged with associating
with the canilje of the nation alone* and their testi-
mony, on this assumption, has been rejected by
numbers, that I have furnished the reader with an
acknowledged standard, which my friends across
the water can cqnfirm, in order to rebut this
anticipated charge.
Besides ourselves, the inmates of this establish-
ment consisted of two married pairs, a brother and
sister, and two single gentlemen: the gentlemen
s 480
were all, either professional men or merchants.
Frequently the company was diversified, by the in-
troduction of a lady and gentleman from Charleston,
or from one of the southern states; who had taken
a trip hither, for the purpose of avoiding the
excessive heat at home; and sometimes two ladies
would drop down the Hudson from the north for
a few week*s pleasure. Some one of the gentle-
men, also, would occasionally introduce a friend
fresh from the other side of the Atlantic; so that,
it was no uncommon occurrence for us to converse,
on the same day, with individuals from many
different parts of the globe.
After breakfast, we used to withdraw to the
sitting-room, and either read or work with the
needle; or, if more agreeable, we could retire to
our private apartments. We could spend our time,
either privately or in public, according to our in-
clinations, and with agreeable society, for ours
was remarkably so, what could be more desirable?
But what became of the children? will be a natural
question. These were no source of annoyance—
they were sent to school, or attended in the nur-
sery, or, if of sufficient age, were admitted into the81
sitting-room. That woman is not worthy of the
name of either wife or mother* in whose vocabulary
the word “ trouble55 has a place* when the com-
fort of her husband or her children* is the object.
So small a portion of the time being occupied in
affairs of a domestic nature* leaves the ladies leisure
to devote to reading* and to the elaborate construc-
tion of fancy articles of dress* and other trifles.
Their fashions are imported from Paris* which*
however* do not at all times appear become them;
but here* as in England* any absurdity has its
charms* that is countenanced by the recommenda-
tion of a French milliner. The gentlemen dress
after the English style* and plates of the newest
London fashions are displayed in the shop windows
of every tailor in New York.
The Americans are commonly charged with
eating with voracious avidity. I know this to be
strictly true with some; but the charge does not
apply* in all its disgusting details* against the
members of* what is considered* good society.
The first exhibition I witnessed of this national
peculiarity* was on a steam ship tour; until then
I had not even heard of it. It is most true* they
e 582
do not indulge in conversation while dining; and
this, not only detracts from sociability, which, at
all times, graces an English repast; but it also
throws a sombre shade over the whole affair.
Nothing can exceed the abhorrence, with which
I view the disgusting practipes, I now feel myself
called upon to mention. The disagreeable crea-
tures, almost to a man, chew tobacco and spit most
incessantly. These odious practices are too uni-
versal to admit of any palliation from individual
exceptions. What pleasure can the things—
wretches I was going to write, find in this loath-
some practice? It unfits them for the society of
females, who have even the lowest claims to re-
spectability—it injures their health—it makes them
hateful and hated go where they may,—and I
could almost wish for the supremacy of the Pope,
to predominate in America, for the alone purpose
of carrying into effect, the edicts of Urban VII.
against the use of tobacco.
It is always painful to my feelings to dwell on
these things, but having tied the above foul
practices together, and dismissed them with the83
thunders of the Vatican; it would be unfair to let
the master vice of the nation escape, without a
disapproving expression, I mean the vice of drink-
ing ardent spirits. I will not call it the vice of
drunkenness, for all I can learn inclines me to
question, the capability of the gentlemen of the
Union, to commit this sin. They cannot deny,
that, as a nation, they are brought up from their
very infancy to drink ardent spirits, and by the
time they arrive at years of discretion, (?) they
become so habituated to this practice, that spirits
cease to effect them, in a manner similar to others.
Who can sufficiently estimate the blessings that
flow from cheap rum? I have witnessed infants
washed in it—being attainable by all, boys have
been known to enter school under its influence—
and it has slain its thousands in the prime of
manhood.
That temperance societies have improved these
things, I cheerfully admit; for the practice had
produced effects so appaling, that even the de-
praved shuddered to contemplate them. But still
the use of the solitary dram is not yet banished,
£ 684
even from among the higher orders of the .com-
munity.
Before these societies sprung up, the nation, in
no one instance, returned so correct a response to
their political apothegm, as in the practice of
drinking. They were all free drinkers. Here,
indeed, if any, where was a correct display of
equality—Citizens of all classes, young and old,
black and white, bond and free, all drinking of the
same destructive beverage,—ardent spirits.
These evil spirits are here made to assume all
the attractions, that a depraved ingenuity guided
by self interest, can possibly invent. The taste
is consulted either by bitter, sweet or acid, or by
a pleasing combination of all; and if the weather
be hot, ice is introduced to impart a grateful
coolness.
I would, by no means, advise any young man,
who has the least relish for these things, to cross
the Atlantic; for, I consider, if he have only the
slightest inclination for them here, his life is not
worth four years purchase, from the day he sets
foot on the coast of America. In the short space85
of two years, how many young men have I known
and heard of, who, by this destructive vice, have
been cut off in the flower of their days! The
absent friends of a young man seldom know the
real cause of his death; and consumption, or some
other disorder, frequently serves as the “ mantle,”
to cover the horrid aspect of the familiar spirit he
has consulted, as a similar vesture veiled the shade
of the Prophet.86
CHAPTER IV.
VOYAGE UP THE HUDSON.---NEW ENGLAND
SABBATH DAT BAGS.
Throughout the preceding chapters, I have
considered our voyage, across the Atlantic, only in
the light of a successful speculation; and so in-
deed it was, in all points but one; but that one
was unfortunately of the utmost importance—
health. My family had enjoyed this blessing
almost without alloy, in all our previous travels,
and this circumstance, perhaps, rendered us a
little impatient, under the infliction of the first
reverse.
After we had remained in the city a few months,
Mr. F. was attacked with a disorder, that fre-
quently rages here, called the chills and fever,
one distressing peculiarity of which is, that it
leaves the patient, for a long time, in a weak and
languid condition. This was to us a circumstance
of a serious nature, as all our earthly dependency87
was founded upon his exertions, as a Private
Teacher; and, if he were incapacitated by sickness,
from pursuing the duties of his profession, it
required no augur to foretel the consequences.
But, as in ot^er affairs, America had not only
answered, but greatly exceeded, our expectations,
we felt every disposition to give it a fair trial,
before we totally abandoned it.
As soon as Mr. F. was sufficiently convalescent,
we amused ourselves with visiting Staten Island,
Long Island, New Jersey, and other places, within
a convenient distance of the city, for the advantage
of change of scene and air, and also of selecting a
country residence, with the view of ascertaining
the effect of the climate, under, what we fondly
conceived to be, the most advantageous circum-
stances. The chief of these excursions of pleasure,
was our trip to Albany, the State Capital of
New York, and situated about a hundred and fifty
miles up the Hudson, or the North'River, as it is
here denominated.
Embarked on board a superb steam ship, we
went at a swift rate, and quickly left the city in the
distance. Since I had been in America, I had88
heard, with perfect indifference, the scenery of the
Hudson whispered in faint accents of praise; and,
as I expected to see nothing more than a fine river
winding its course through a forest, I was totally
unprepared for the pleasure that awaited me. . A
long series of perpendicular rocks, of various alti-
tudes, crowned with trees and bushes, and fluted,
as if by art, formed the western barrier of the river;
on the other side, the mansions of the opulent,
with their pleasure grounds, reflected a beauteous
contrast. We now leave the dwellings of man, and
the wildness of nature seems to usurp uninter-
rupted sway; when, suddenly, the river widens
into what appears an expansive lake, whose glassy
bosom reflects the surrounding woods and rocks,
and the tree bearing islets, which it encircles.
Again, the stream is contracted by two gigantic
rocks, which left their cc awful form” from each
side of its margin. We dart through this channel,
and another expansive prospect opens to our view,
enriched with all the charms of the former one,
with the blue mountains of Catskill in perspective.
But I feel myself totally inadequate to impart an
idea of the picturesque beauties of this voyage: to89
be fully appreciated they must be seen. Here, it
seems as if nature had studied to dispose woods,
rocks, mountains, streams and lakes, in positions
both graceful and majestic, and, under such
circumstances, as will best display sublimity and
beauty. Before I sailed up the Hudson, I con-
ceived nothing could exceed the beauties of the
Isle of Wight, and some scenes on the lakes of
Scotland; but, in my judgement, at least, they
must yield the palm to the scenery of the Hudson.
Besides nature’s attractions, other circumstances
lend an interest to the scene. About forty miles
beyond the city, is the memorable district pos-
sessed by the American forces, when the struggle
was the fiercest, during the revolutionary war.
We also pass the melancholy spot, near Tarry-
town, where the unfortunate Major Andr£ was
taken. “ Sleepy Hallow,” the subject of one of
Washington Irving’s tales, was also pointed out to
us, together with the village of Rip Van Winkle,
of somniferous notoriety, at the base of the
Catskill mountains. But the rock of Sing Sing
crowned with the dismal ornament of the largest
prison in the world, imparts a melancholy in-
terest to the scene.90
The established regulations on board the steam
ships, oblige the gentlemen to occupy the fore cabin,
and leave the ladies in uninterrupted possession of
the after one. We had, therefore, no gentlemen in
our company, except when on deck. Although this
division of the sexes may be viewed with reluctance
at first, by those who have husbands and brothers
on board; yet ladies are generally reconciled to the
arrangement, because they are secure from the
multitudinous annoyances, produced by the free
consumption of spirits and tobacco. However,
the ladies and gentlemen dine together, and, on
the present occasion, the company amounted to
above two hundred. The same scenes variously
affect different persons, and this was the first time
in my life that I had dined with so large and sa
heterogeneous an assemblage. I felt much an-
noyed by hearing the rough phrases bandied about
among the gentlemen, while taking possession of
their places. Soon, however, the dinner appeared,
and the company commenced operation in earnest.
Although but few words were spoken, it was by no
means a silent repast, dispatch was the order of
the day—I had never before seen any thing like91
it—and, from the effect of the queer objects that
presented themselves to my notice, I confess, I felt
a much stronger inclination for laughing than
feasting. But violent exertions are of short dura-
tion; and, in pure simplicity, I stared when the
first signs proclaimed the battle was over. The
gentlemen withdrew to their part of the vessel, and
the ladies to the deck, and, I suppose, the whole
affair was concluded in less than ten minutes.
Mr. F. and myself embraced the first opportu-
nity afforded us of comparing notes; the scenery
and the dinner was all, during the voyage, that we
witnessed in common; the former we enjoyed, but
the latter we did not. As all the females were con-
signed to one particular quarter of the vessel, I had
an opportunity of spending about twelve hours in
company with a fair sample of the American ladies.
The chilling impression left on my mind, by the
image of the captain’s wife, mentioned in the first
chapter, had long since passed away; and, although
a full acquaintance with the character of that
worthy lady, had been of singular service to me,
I was alike averse, by nature and by judgement,
to condemn a whole nation, for the reprobated92
failings of a single individual. The city lady might
here be distinguished from the rest, as she paced
the deck, by her close adherence to the latest
Parisian fashions, and the plain Dutch dame by
her plain Dutch dress; but, otherwise, there is a
greater uniformity of external appearance, than
would be seen with us, under similar circum-
stances. I formed a speaking acquaintance with
some ladies from Massachusets, and I have every
reason to think, the few hours we spent together
were reciprocally agreeable.
Mr. F. thus describes the proceedings in his
part of the vessel:
“ The fore cabin was furnished with a bar,
where ardent spirits and tobacco where supplied
to those of the passengers, that; were destitute of
such blessings; and the regularity with which the
glass circulated, might very well illustrate per-
petual motion. The gentlemen were associated
together in small groups, and were conversing
chiefly on that theme of which the Americans
never seem to tire—the revolutionary war. " A
number were amusing themselves by rallying a
squire, as a justice of the twenty-five dollar court,93
is here termed* and a little dark man* who
figured as the deacon of a church. It appeared
that the deacon was a farmer* and his neighbour*
the squire* kept a store for the sale of almost
every thing* or for the convenience of barter* or
* trading/ as they call it. One cold morning*
during the last winter* the deacon took six bushels
of wheat to the store of the squire* to be exchanged
for as much salt as could be mutually agreed upon.
After some time* and many words were spent in
manseuvring* they consented to barter* measure
for measure. The deacon proceeded to mete out
his grain* and the squire employed himself in
stamping upon his elastic floor* and complaining of
the coldness of the morning. The deacon* of
course* could not object to his neighbour warming
his toes* in what manner he pleased* in his own
store* and therefore said nothing* although he dis-
covered that this stamping had consolidated his six
bushels of wheat into less compass by half a
bushel. The squire then commenced his part of
the contract* viz. to measure out the salt* ahd a
chilness conveniently seized the toes of the deacon*
which he endeavoured to counteract by stamping*
i94
after the example of the squire. * Stop, stop/
said the squire, c what are you stamping for?* * To
warm my toes/ was the answer. 6 But do you not
see how you shake down the salt?* c Not more
than you shook down the wheat/ was the reply.
And so, as they acknowledged, c they got a fair
trade between them.*	N
There was a youth on board, whom I regarded
with curiosity; he bore so striking a resemblance
to Brom Bones, the hero of Sleepy Hollow, that
nothing was wanting but the fox*s tail in his hat to
complete the resemblance. I felt an unconquerable
inclination to learn something of this “ roystering
blade/ and, for this purpose, I stepped up to a
young man, with whom he had just been conversing.
I was very soon fully gratified. From this informant
I learned a few circumstances concerning the hero
in question; that, like his model, he was fond of a
spirited horse; and that he had lately figured con-
spicuously in a race,—not with a goblin for a gallon
of cider, but with a more substantial personage, in
the form of a deacon. I quite forget his name, for
the ijnage of Brom Bones was so correctly deli-
neated in my mind, that it entirely obliterated
his proper name from my memory.95
In some townships of New England, a law is
very properly enacted, against all Sunday travel-
ling, except for the purpose of going and returning
from a place of worship: any violation of which is
visited with a fine of ten dollars.
A few Sundays ago, this Brom Bones, in a
light waggon, drawn by an excellent horse, and
attended with a negro, was out on a spree; and his
road lying close by a church, he determined to
push forwards, in defiance of the law, and hazard
the consequences; concluding that as the service
had commenced, he should meet with no inter-
ruption. As he dashed past the church, he saw
the horses, belonging to the members of the
congregation, tied up under a row of high trees, as
is usual on such occasions; but, to his dismay, he
also saw the deacon, bustling through the church-
yard, to mount his poney, as he guessed, to give
him chase.
Now, as half the fine goes to the informer, and,
as it is represented, with too much truth, that
these same deacons are c given to filthy lucre/
look to thyself Brom Bones. Away went Bones,
and away went the Deacon; the one impelled by96
the fear of losing ten dollars, and the other sti-
mulated with the hope of gaining five. Nor was
the chase without spectators; for a portion of the
juveniles guessing at what was up, from the sound
of the wheels, and the absence of the deacon,
slipped out to view the sport, from the hill on
which the church stood.
Bones* confidence in his horse began to fail, as
he perceived the deacon gaining ground, and, like
the beaver in the fable, he judged it the best policy
to relinquish a part, in order to save the whole.
He hastily gave a silver dollar to his negro, and
directed him to display it fully in the eyes of the
deacon, and then to let it fall deliberately on the
road. The negro obeyed his directions, and the
stratagem, for that time, had the desired effect.,
The deacon dismounted, for what deacon, that
keeps a store, would be so improvident as to ride
over a dollar? While his pursuer was securing the
coin, Bones used his time well, to effect an escape.
But the deacon was quickly mounted, and again in
the field; and again promised fair to perplex him.
The negro hinted to his master that the deacon’s
poney was 6 blowed,* and that another dollar97
would save the ten. Bones thought the experi-
ment worth trying, and furnished the black with
the cash. Carefully did blackey turn it in the sun,
to ensure its being seen distinctly; for he knew the
race depended upon this manseuvre, as the deacon
was just upon his haunches. He dropped it, and
the deacon alighted, and speedily re-mounted.
Five miles had now been rode over with the utmost
speed, and both horses showed symptoms of dis-
tress—now hope prevailed, and now fear, in the
breasts of the contending parties. At length a
e pretty considerable slough* suddenly appeared
to the horror of poor Bones, and closed the chase
in favour of the deacon. Bones* horse and waggon
were seized as security for the fine; and the deacon
kept the two dollars as a remuneration for his
exertions.**
Although I do not greatly admire these inci-
dents, yet I think them too decisively characteristic
to be altogether omitted. The writer has en-
deavoured, by his verbiage, to impart an idea of the
ridiculous manner in which sacred and pecuniary
matters are blended. This is a sad national blot.
The officers of the various churches, with the ex-
F98
ception of the preacher* seem to be a class of men
elected, from no other earthly recommendation,
than the number of dollars they possess: how they
have obtained their wealth is a matter of no con-
sideration. Frequently churches are built upon spe-
culation, and I have known a lottery got up for the
purpose. The attempts of the male part of the
community, to make religion subservient to their
own personal advantage, is, in many cases, dis^
tinctly avowed, and is as indecent as it is distressing.
These remarks are not applicable to the quakers.
Albany is the second city in the state of New
York, it contains, I suppose, about 2500 inhabi-
tants, a very large portion of which are Dutch;
here are to be seen the oldest buildings in the
United States.
In order to see as much of the country as pos-
sible, we landed, on our return from Albany, at
a small town, a little below West Point, and about
fifty miles above New York, and decided upon pro-
ceeding through the country towns by whatever
conveyance we could obtain. This may appear a
wild-goose scheme, but I think of it with much
pleasure, as, in addition to the beauties of the99
scenery, which were “ passing lovely,” we had an
opportunity of seeing the villages with their inhabi-
tants, in their unadorned simplicity: we were fully
gratified, for the enjoyment more than compensated
for the inconvenience.
The place and neighbourhood where we landed,
is almost exclusively occupied by families of Dutch
extraction. They speak both Dutch and English
fluently, are a simple hearted class of beings, read
their bibles, and hate the Yankees.
I ought to have before explained this term,
“ Yankee.” It is applied, by all the Americans,
to the inhabitants of the five New England States,
viz. Vermont, Massachusets, New Hampshire,
Rhode Island, and Connecticut. These people
are reported by their southern neighbours as being
remarkable for inquisitiveness and roguishness,
and many of them avow this superiority with com-
placency.—While here, we were told a farm had re-
cently been purchased in this neighbourhood by a
Yankee, and that the Dutchmen had submitted to
some pecuniary sacrifice, in order to re-purchase it.
I asked the reason, and received this answer,
(C We were frightened at him.”
f 2100
Families descended from the earliest settlers in-
habit these banks of the Hudson. Their furniture*
manners and affairs* conduct the mind back to the
days of the pilgrim fathers. But nothing is de-
clining here; new houses are building* the forest is
daily yielding to the axe* and all things are in a
state of active improvement. It is not in America*
that Sultan Mahomaud^s owls can endow their sons
and daughters with ruined villages.
The farmer here spins his own wool and flax*
and sometimes weaves his own cloth; he mends his
own farming implements* consumes the produce of
his own land* and barters the remainder for other
necessaries. As he has neither rent* tithes* nor
taxes to pay* it is no wonder that he is enabled* if
industrious* to live in a state of absolute profusion.
Avowedly* I have never read any work that has
lately appeared on the United States of America*
but have formed my judgement of their character*
from common report* and the few extracts that
have fortuitously fallen in my way. It appears to
me* that the observations of the Americans* re-
specting many of these publications* are nearly
correct* viz. That they are penned to please some101
particular party, and not to promulgate a true
representation of facts.
I will just state one instance, which I copy
from a work, that I never saw, till my attention
was called to it this very hour. The authoress
is giving an account of the American farmers,
whom she honours with the designation of “ Small
landed proprietors, who farm their own freehold
estates.”
“ When in Maryland, I went into the houses of several
of these small proprietors,[and remained long enough, and
looked and listened sufficiently, to obtain a tolerably cor-
rect idea of their manner of living. One of these families
consisted of a young man, his wife, two children, a
female slave, and two young lads, slaves also. The farm
belonged to the wife, and, I was told, consisted of about
three hundred acres of indifferent land, but all cleared.
The house was built of wood, and looked as if the three
slaves might have overturned it, had they pushed hard
against the gable end. It contained one room, of about
twelve feet square; and another, adjoining it, hardly
larger than a closet: this second chamber was the lodging-
room of the white part of the family. Near this mansion
was a “ shanty,” a black hole, without any window,
which served as a kitchen and all other offices, and also
as the lodging of the blacks!! !
We were invited to take tea with this family, and
f 3102
readily consented to do so.(!) Her female slave set out
the great table, and placed upon it cups of the very
coarsest blue ware, a little brown sugar in one, and a tiny
drop of milk in another; no butter, though the lady
assured us she had a “ deary” and two cows. Instead
of butter, she “ hoped we would fix a little relish with
our crackers,” in ancient English, eat salt meat and dry
biscuits. Such was the fare!”
This lady must have been dreaming of a
witch’s den! Most freely do I admit* persons may
be mistaken in trivial matters, and innocently mis-
lead others. I have lived in an American farm-
house, for most of the houses in the country may
be so denominated, that are above the mere cot-
tages, I have dined and taken tea in several,
perhaps scores, and these, in all directions from,
and within one hundred and sixty miles of New
York; yet, I never saw any thing like this! The
farmers are much more censurable for their extra-
vagant profusion, than for their meanness.
The scene this lady describes lay in Maryland.
Now, it is universally admitted, that the people of
this state, and those lying to the south, are more
prone to indulge in the pleasures of the table, than
the inhabitants of the state of New York. The103
authoress must here be describing a solitary in-
stance, and she ought to have expressed herself to
that effect, but she seems to wish her readers to
understand it generally. A farm of three hundred
acres, with such premises, requires no comment.
It is nothing to me whether those who honour
these pages with a perusal, shall admire or detest
America, when they arrive at the conclusion; I
write with a view of pleasing no particular party,
and shall be quite satisfied, if I obtain the appro-
bation of those whom it is a credit to please. But,
I think it “ too bad” to select a solitary instance
of wretchedness, and such as it would be extremely
difficult to match, to expose as a sample of the
circumstances of about nine millions of Christians.
Heaven knows, there is sufficient to make any one
dislike America, without having recourse to such
stratagems as these!
f 4104
CHAPTER V.
COUNTRY RESIDENCE.----THUNDER AND
XiIGHTNXNG.--CLIMATE.
After various excursions and much delibera-
tion, we fixed upon an estate, comprising an excel-
lent dwelling-house, with out-offices, and above
fifty acres of land, delightfully situated on Long
Island, and within about twenty-five miles from
New York. This was the most delightful resi-
dence, both for beauty of situation, and internal
convenience that I ever inhabited, but, with all
its attractions, it was the scene of my severest
afflictions.
The agreeable change from city to country, at
the delightful season of spring, made the first few
weeks pass away most pleasurably. In this
quarter of the globe, winter reigns, with undisputed
sway, from the first day of November to the last
of April. Nature, refreshed with so long a repose,
and enlivened by the genial warmth of the sun,105
throws off the somber robe of winter, and suddenly
appears clad in her most lovely attire. Birds of gay
plumage, resembling those of the tropics, with
woodland flowers of all hues, and the bright foliage
of the forest trees, simultaneously spring into exist-
ence, with a rapidity that would here be considered
miraculous. I distinctly remember, the buds of
the trees being firmly closed on the 28th of April,
and on the 12th of the following May, the foliage
of the whole of them was as fully developed, as in
the month of July.
Strictly speaking, the American spring is con-
fined to the first fortnight in May, It is a most de-
lightful season, but sadly too short. Birds, such as
for beauty, I never before saw, except in a museum,
enliven the scenery, with their bright plumage, but
not with their notes; for these are not very melo-
dious. Choice flowers, thick and numberless “ as
autumnal leaves that strew the brooks in Vallam-
brosa,” are here seen, with their rich colours
enhancing each others charms by a beauteous con-
trast. The myriads of butterflies too, not the
small light coloured things of northern Europe,
but of uncommon size and beauty, contribute
f 5106
their share to this fund of pleasure. No pen nor
pencil can do justice to the landscape scenery at
this period, and viewed, as it is, through the me-
dium of a clear atmosphere that imparts a glowing
warmth, the effect is rendered truly enchanting.
Every rose has its thorn, and the same bright
sun, that call into existence these beauties, awakens
also swarms of serpents and venomous reptiles of
every kind. The bite of some of these, is attended
with distressing consequences, and others among
them, such as the black serpent and the copper-
headed viper, have been known to inflict a fatal
wound. I believe I am not whimsical, yet I could
never look upon these dreadful creatures without
shuddering, as they wriggled their way, in odious
contortions, from just before my feet. The caution
required to avoid stepping upon them, and the fear
of some, who are known to pursue the human
species, greatly detracted from the pleasure of my
woodland rambles; and, like the sword impending
over the head of Damocles, dashed all my pleasure
with fearful apprehension. One day, while walking
in the garden, I narrowly escaped a bite from a
black serpent* which our rnan-servant afterwards107
succeeded in killing; its skin was variegated with
all the darker colours, beautifully arranged: it
measured five feet two inches. After this, I was
determined to walk in no other than a clear path.
About the latter part of May the heat of the
sun becomes oppressive. Then, farewell to plea-
sure. Clouds of musquitoes are ushered into ex-
istence, while myriads of flies fill every room; now
our dress, and almost our lives, become burthen-
some, and we feel for those who are not blessed
with an ice-house. Although the common flies
are extremely numerous, they bear no proportion
to the musquitoes in point of annoyance. These
are considered as minor evils by some, but the
sharp stinging wounds inflicted on me by the latter,
will not very soon be forgotten. I was confined
to the house, and under medical attendance, for a
fortnight, in consequence of a bite I received from
one of them. I ought to state this as a singular
case; but it furnishes an instance of their noxious
powers. I have been often told, that in their visita-
tions, they respect the persons of those who are ac-
customed to drink largely of rum. I do not believe
it. Ablution in this liquor, I found very grateful,
f 6108
after enduring a day’s campaign with them: as a
lotion, for allaying the pain produced by these
insects it is good, and this is the only purpose for
which I can discover its use.
With the hot weather, comes thunder and
lightning and rain. The latter invariably falls in
torrents, and if the wheat grew as high and as
heavy in the ear as with us, it certainly could never
arrive at maturity. A transatlantic thunder storm
is truly sublime and terrible. The sky first be-
comes covered with black clouds, the wind blows
violently, the clouds suddenly expand and emit,
what appears a broad stream of liquid fire; the
thunder instantaneously bursts forth with a crash,
that, I suppose, all the artillery in the world could
not equal if simultaneously discharged. This is
usually repeated twice or thrice, and the storm
having exhausted itself by its own violence, is sud-
denly succeeded by a delightful calm. Aeolus has
torn the vail of black clouds from the face of the
sun, which now seems to shine with increasing heat
and splendour; and the earth, before parched with
excessive heat, being suddenly deluged with tor-
rents of rain, now emits clouds of vapour* that, for a109
short time, invest the atmosphere in a dense fog.
This is quickly dispersed by the excessive heat of
the sun—the arid earth again thirsts for moisture,
and we soon forget the storm.
The opinion prevailing in Europe respecting
the salubrity of the United States, is more favour-
able than an examination will warrant. My
remarks on this subject are the result of a patient
investigation, aided by experience most dearly
purchased. A meteorological register, attentively
and accurately kept, would, in some measure,
justify my conclusions, and tend greatly to dimi-
nish the confidence of many, who are eternally
proclaiming the state of New York to be inferior
to none in the world, in point of salubrity.
Many persons from Europe have visited the
United States, for the prudential purpose of making
an experiment, prior to their removal thither to
spend the remainder of their days; they have, per-
haps, landed just in the most healthy season of
the year, and their attention being wholly engrossed
about pecuniary matters, they have entirely over-
looked the subject of health. They have been
charmed with the prospect, and, under this impulse,110
have sent for their families; but a year’s experi-
ence, attended with a few fits of sickness, soon
convinces them, that the same country that appears
so pleasant to the eye of a visiter, may present a
different aspect when adopted for a permanent
residence.
The climate, and its effect upon the constitution,
are always distasteful subjects to the Americans;
they cannot subscribe to any other doctrine, than
that which recommends theirs as the most salur-
brious climate in the world. This is asserted by
them as a self-evident truth, and, all who dispute
it, are in danger of being overwhelmed by a torrent
of displeasure. Our physician paid us a visit one
broiling day in July, and certainly did acknowledge
that it was then hot—but, checking himself, he
observed, “ that the heat was nothing to speak of—
just fair summer weather—hotter, no doubt, than
in England—but the perfection of summer.” We
observed that the heat had, for some days past,
been above ninety-six degrees in the shade. As
we expected, he manifested symptoms of incre-
dulity, which, however, we soon dispelled by
leading him to the thermometer, then standing atIll
ninety-eight degrees. In the absence of positive
proof like the above* they will endeavour to evade
the question in any way* rather than submit to
acknowledge any fact that would jeopardize the
character of their climate. They appear to con-
sider a Jamaica summer and a St. Petersburg
winter* as being the very acme of perfection.
In speaking of the climate* I shall confine my
remarks to the first summer we passed in America,
and the succeeding winter* which* from being the
more uniform* are less liable to objection. The
state of the thermometer* and the variation of the
winds* I select from a diary kept by Mr. Felton
during our residence in the United States. The
greatest heat this summer was a hundred and five
degrees. From mid-day to five in the afternoon*
during the months of July* August* and Septem-
ber, the thermometer ranged between ninety and
a hundred degrees—seldom above the latter; the
universal stilness of the air* renders the heat quite
as overpowering* both in city and in country* as
the state of the index warrants.
I discovered* to my sorrow* that the morning
air here is not so wholesome as in England; on112
the contrary, it is considered pernicious. This
greatly perplexed me, in selecting the best time
for a walk. The physician had interdicted the
matutinal breezes—the mid-day was not to be
thought of—and the evening gales were, at the
best, very unwholesome, and frequently they were
deadly and chill as the breath of the death angel.
There are here no cool evenings, so refreshing and
so pleasant: while the sun is above the horizon, he
blazes away with insufferable heat, and his descent
is mostly succeeded by a chilness, that resembles
the icy hand of death to the feelings, and, fre-
quently is such in reality, to those who are often
exposed to its influence. The sudden vicissitudes
of the atmosphere, I consider the most dangerous
feature in the subject; and, incredible as it may
appear, the mercury has fallen from ninety-five to
sixty-six degrees in the short space of eight hours.
A variation of twenty or twenty-five degrees, in the
same space of time, is by no means an uncommon
occurrence.
The houses in the country are almost univer-
sally formed of wood, the best of them are faced
with shingles and neatly painted; these are by no113
means deficient in comfort. For the sake of cool-
ness in summer* they are so constructed as to fur-
nish a shaded walk on both sides; and* if flowers
are trained to climb up the pillars* the whole has
a very pleasing appearance.
During the hours of mid-day* no work can be
done in the fields by white men; the u hands*”
therefore* return home and doze away the time in
the out oflices* and work early and late in order to
atone for their meridian slumber.
The city is preferable* as a place of residence*
during the heat of summer. The neat awnings
that shelter the whole of the side walks* prove an
agreeable protection from the powerful influence
of the sun*s rays* when it is necessary to go from
the doors; but* during the hottest part of the day*
little is done by the gentlemen* besides loitering
about* reading the newspapers* and drinking iced
punch and the like* while the ladies* reclining on
the sofas* fan themselves* and drink lemonade.
Business transactions of all kinds occupy the early
hours of the morning* then the ice carts perambu-
late the city* and provisions for the day are pro-
cured: after mid-day the streets are deserted* those114
who have leisure* retire to doze* a solemn stilness
reigns* and the city seems forsaken and desolate.
The twilight is of very short duration* the
setting sun is succeeded by a greater state of dark-
ness than with us; but* as a compensation* the
moonlight is clearer and much brighter* and in
winter* it is truly delightful.
This scorching summer commences about the
middle of May* and usually terminates with Sep-
tember; it is then succeeded by a month of the
most charming weather I ever experienced. This
is October—the American autumn. Now the
sun’s dreaded rays begin to lay aside a portion of
their fiery force* the forest trees begin to change
the hue of their leaves* and* instead of green*
nature’s universal livery* colours of all shades
gradually appear* from the dark purple to the light
yellow. The immense variety of the trees* accounts
for the many coloured foliage* and* if variety be
charming* it is here seen in perfection—not merely
the somber tints seen at the same season in an
English coppice—but purple* red* brown* and every
colour that can be produced on the palette of the
artist.115
This is likewise the season for abundance.
Apples, the finest in the world, peaches, melons,
and fruit of every kind that grace the orchard, are
produced in such profusion, that even in the city,
they are sold for very little more than the expence
of their carriage. The maize waving its purple
tassels in the breeze, is certainly a pleasing sight;
but, I still think, a field of ripe English wheat is
equally beautiful.
The iron reign of winter usually commences
about the middle of November; from that time till
the last days of April, the weather is excessively
cold, but the atmosphere is, at all seasons, delight-
fully clear. Were it a matter of choice, and I were
doomed to live in America, I should certainly pre-
fer a perpetual winter, cold as it is, to the broiling
summer and its extreme variations, with their
dreaded consequences.
The lowest point of the thermometer this win-
ter was three degrees below zero. This was in
January, but for several days it was below ten
degrees, and, for weeks, with slight variations, it
stood at eighteen. Although the cold in winter is
very severe, still very little rain falls, or I should
rather say,rain seldom falls; but hail,sleet, and snow116
comes plentifully in storms; in the absence of these,
the air is cold indeed, but delightfully pure and
translucent, both by day and by night.
The changes of the thermometer in winter, are
neither so sudden nor so rapid as in summer, but
the winds are as fickle then, as during any period
of the year. Those from the north and the west are
equally cold, though the north-west wind is dreaded
in winter more than any other. Frequently the wind
will suddenly vere from a particular point of the
compass to the one diametrically opposite. I never
knew this to take place in England.
According to what I have advanced, the greatest
heat during this year was 105°, and the greatest
cold 3 ° below zero; the extreme variation, therefore,
will be 108°. Hence, it appears, that during the
summer, New York, which is situated about 40°
of latitude, endures the heat of Egypt or Arabia,
and, in winter, the cold of Stockholm or Petersburg.
Nor is this all, for in no part of the old world, are
the diurnal vicissitudes of the atmosphere, either so
sudden or in such extremes. Petersburg is cold in
winter and cool in summer: Egypt is never abso-
lutely cold—but the climate of the eastern shores117
of the Atlantic is ever variable* and alone uniform
in unwholesomeness.
The miasma produced by the heat of the sun*
from the vegetable matter deposited in the num-
berless marshes, that every where abound in an
uncleared country, is another fruitful source of dis-
ease. Then there are sicknesses arising from local
causes. With a climate, marked by such extremes
of temperature, and such sudden vicissitudes, be-
sides the pestilential effluvia arising from vegetable
decomposition, there can be no wonder if America
is one of the most unhealthy places in the world.
Had I been in possession of these facts before
I crossed the Atlantic, I should no doubt have
concluded, as I am noiV compelled to do, from dear-
bought experience; but no work that I could meet
with was sufficiently explicit on this point; all the in-
formation I could collect was delivered in terms too
indefinite, such as—“ that the weather was very hot
in summer, and extremely cold in winter,”—the
same indeed may be said of our own country.
It is not my intention to dwell long in detailing
the afflictions of my own family, from ill health, but
I cannot, with justice to my readers, omit all notice
of this circumstance. We suffered the most in the118
country with the bilious fever, and distressing
attacks of the chills, but, I am thankful to say, none
of us sunk under these visitations. With the ex-
ception of one of my children, a very little girl,
myself and my family, consisting of five individuals,
besides three servants, were all, at the same time,
confined to our beds. Many of our neighbours
were in the same condition as ourselves, and I fear
some were far worse'; no relief could, therefore, be
expected from that quarter. Our medical attendant
was himself at the point of death, and the attention of
all the others was engrossed by their own connection.
So general was the epidemic that, no doubt, num-
bers were lost for want of proper attention; and
those few who were well, and from motives of com-
misseration or curiosity, were induced to pay us a
short visit, entertained us with a long list of the dying
and the dead. I hourly expected some of us would
bid adieu to this world, and then the most I could
hope for, was a silent interment in unconsecrated
ground, with no other requiem than the ocean’s
deep moan as it laved the neighbouring shore, or
the sighing of the breezes on the trees of the forest.
Providence, however, did not forsake us; one
evening a person chanced to call who knew Mr.119
Felton, and, at his own suggestion, took our horse
and gig and went in quest of assistance. Contrary
to our expectations, his exertions were crowned
with success; he returned with a clever active
American woman, to whom we are under great ob-
ligations, for she acted both as physician-and nurse,
and soon made us all as comfortable as circum-
stances would permit. From that day we began
to recover, though it was, I suppose, months before
the dreaded disorder entirely forsook us.
We had now given the land of liberty two years
trial, and had endured nearly two years of ill health;
we therefore most cordially agreed in our determi-
nation to leave those to enjoy its blessings, who
prized them—for our own part we had had quite
enough. Acting on this impulse, as soon as we
were sufficiently convalescent, we proceeded to
arrange our affairs for departure, and, as concerns
America, the day on which we reflect with the
greatest pleasure, is the day we left it.
In conclusion, I would observe, that although
America has objectionable points, it possesses at-
tractions; and the one or the other preponderates in
the estimation of every individual, according to his
manner of life or his peculiar prejudices. The ladies,120
in my opinion, take precedence of the other sex,
both in virtue and talent. They furnish a noble
instance of moral integrity, in preserving themselves
uncontaminated amidst the drinking propensities of
their degraded lords—the one acting as a foil to dis-
play the purity of the other. They have been ri-
diculed for that which does them infinite honour—■
their modest deportment—however, as a nation,
there is no reason, but the most wicked in the world,
to suppose them to be otherwise than virtuous.
With respect to the opposite sex, they may be patri-
ots, they may be brave—they are a money-loving
class—and they may be enterprising and perse-
vering, but certainly they are far from being amiable.
Were it not for the climate, I could have spent
my days there, with a fair proportion of comfort,
for I met with much kindness. I entertain no feeling
of bitterness against the people, though I have given
my opinion freely on their manners and customs:
against this, they can make no objection, for if they
allow freedom of speech among themselves, they
cannot consistently deny the same to a foreigner.
John Hutchinson, Printer, 30, Scale-Lane, Hull.