Production Note
Cornell University Library produced
this volume to replace the irreparably
deteriorated original. It was scanned
using Xerox software and equipment at
600 dots per inch resolution and
compressed prior to storage using
CCITT Group 4 compression. The digital
data were used to create Cornell's
replacement volume on paper that meets
the ANSI Standard Z39.48-1984. The
production of this volume was
supported in part by the New York
State Program for the Conservation and
Preservation of Library Research
Materials and the Xerox Corporation.
Digital file copyright by Cornell
University Library 1993.FREER’S GLEN
AT
WATKINS
A Hx\ID BOOK FOR THE USE OF TOURISTS.
BY CGEOliG-E M. ELWOOD.
ROCHESTER, N.Y.:
DAILY DEMOCRAT PRINTING HOUSE, 62 BUFFALO STREET.
1867,PREFACE.
Since the "Watkins Glen has become so widely known, and tlie
number of its yearly visitors so large, the necessity for a book like
this has been greatly felt, and the many inquiries that have been
lhade foP such a work have led to the preparation of this. The
original project was to publish a voluminous book, profusely illus-
trated with wood engravings. At some future day we shall bring
it out in such a form; but in order to supply the immediate de-
mand, it was impossible to extend the work beyond its present
limits.
The writer has endeavored to meet the wants of the visitor by
giving a simple description of the scenery of this wonderful glen,
without attempting to embellish it in the least—only making it "ft
hand-book, pointing out the various objects of interest, in order
that all may be seen and the services of a guide rendered Unneces*
sary. The distances, heights, etc., have been given with all the
accuracy possible from the most reliable estimates, for owing to
the peculiar conformation of this locality, actual measurement is
impracticable. They may not in all cases be perfect in exactness,
but are substantially correct.
In the latter part of the book will be found some hints to those
who have not had experience in exploring the glen, concerning
suitable dress, etc.
In putting forth this little book the writer has to return his sin-
cere thanks to his kind friend, Mr. Ells, one of the proprietors of
the glen, for the uniform courtesy shown him, and the invaluable
assistance rendered in its preparation.
*1To Seneca Lake.
FERCIVAL.
On thy fair bosom, silver lake,
The wild swan spreads his snowy sail,
And round his breast the ripples break,
As down he bears before the gale.
On thy fair bosom, waveless stream,
The dipping paddle echoes far,
And flashes in the moonlight gleam,
And bright reflects the polar star.
The waves along thy pebbly shore,
As blows the north wind, heave their foam,
And curl around the dashing Oar,
As late the boatman hies him home.
How sweet, at set of sun, to view
Thy golden‘mirror spreading wide,
And see the mist of mantling blue
Float round the distant mountain’s side.
At midnight hour, as shines the moon,
A sheet of silver spreads below,
And swift she cuts, at highest noon,
Light clouds, like wreaths of purest snow.
On thy fair bosom silver lake,
O ! I could ever sweep the oar,
When early birds at morning wake,
And evening tells us toil is o’er.THE GLEN
There is not to be found in this country, perhaps in the
world, a more strikingly wonderful and beautiful freak of
nature than the Watkins Glen. Differing essentially in
all its characteristics from any other remarkable locality
of natural interest, it has as distinct an individuality as
the Dalis of Niagara or the Mammoth Cave.
The Glen is situated in Schuyler County, at the head
of Seneca Lake, between two ranges of hills which seem to
be torn asunder by this valley. It consists properly of
a number of Glens, rising one above^another, and ex-
tending several miles in all, forming a series of rocky
arcades, galleries and grottos, subterranean at times, and
again widening out into vast amphitheatres, the grandeur
and magnificence of which cannot be fully realized by de^
scription. The course of the Glen is nearly east and west,
and the total ascent, about eight hundred feet. It forms
the channel for a limpid stream which follows its eccen-
tric course making the descent by a myriad of cascades
and rapids, the beauty and variety of which is Un-
equalled anywhere.14
tourist’s guide
The Glen lies just above the village of Watkins, and
but a few minutes walk from the hotels. Watkins is on
the Northern Central Railroad forty-seven miles from
Canandaigua and twenty-two from Elmira. Two trains
run each way daily connecting at Canandaigua with the
New York Central Railroad, and at Elmira with the Erie
Railway and all points south and east. It is also reached
by a daily line of steamers, running from Geneva to
Watkins, touching at all points along the lake. This is
by far the most delightful way of reaching the Glen, as
the scenery of this beautiful lake is equal to anything on
the continent.
Seneca Lake is one of the most remarkable inland
bodies of water in the world. It is forty miles long and
varies from two to five miles in width. The water is of
great depth and purity, in many places it being impossi-
ble to touch the bottom by the .ordinary methods of
sounding. The shores are grand and picturesque, con-
sisting of a succession of hills and promontories sweeping
back from the lake in graceful lines, their sides thickly
wooded in some places, in others covered with well tilled
farms and vineyards. Beautiful villages here and there
peer from their settings of Emerald green; the farm
houses and buildings have a comfortable and substantial
look, and speak well for the thrift, industry and taste of
their owners. As we pass up the lake on a steamer the two
shores seem like moving panoramas, presenting new
beauties every moment. It is a remarkable fact inTO THE GLEN.
15
connection with this lake that in the coldest weather in
winter it never freezes. The steamers run the length of
the lake uninterruptedly during the entire year. The
steamers are of the most comfortable kind and every
attention is paid to the convenience and pleasure of
their guests.
It will be seen therefor that this locality is readily ac-
cessible from all directions. The hotel accommodations
are all that could be desired, embracing all the conveni-
ences and privileges of watering places without the ac-
companying annoyances and ruinous tariffs.
It is only recently that the Glen has been accessible to
visitors. Its existence was of course known to those living
in the immediate vicinity, but owing to the impossibility of
entering it from any point, little or nothing was known
of its extent or of the wealth of beauty that lay in its
hidden recesses. Its entrance is of such a form that no
one would imagine that the gorge extended more than
a dozen rods. In 1863 the glen was first brought to pub-
lic notice, and stair-cases built so as to render the first
section passable. In 1864 further improvements were
made. Since then the work has been going steadily on.
The last opening was made in the summer and fall of
1865.
The Glen is now open to visitors for about two miles
from its entrance and extends still beyond, but it is not
deemed expedient to open any farther at present for this
reason. The character of the glen is such that the ascent16
tourist’s guide
is necessarily performed on foot, and there is so much
climbing to be done that it now forms as long a journey
as it is advisable to take on a warm summer day. Ah
adventurous and ambitious spirit causes many to wish 10
go as far as any of their predecessors have been. This
would lead to over exertion and disastrous consequences
on the part of some, were the glen open much farther than
it now is. And besides the scenery grows finer and
more beautiful as we advance, until finally the culminating
point is in the upper glen now open; beyond that th6
scenery is but a repetition of that in soihe of the lower
glens, and loses in grandeur after passing through the in-
tervening ones.
We will now proceed with a detailed description of the
ascent of the glen, and endeavor to present it in such a
manner that the visitor may find it a material aid in
pointing out many things which might, without it, escape
unnoticed.
The Ascent.
Along the west side of the valley an alniost unbroken
succession of hills rise abruptly to a towering height, lifting
their heads far above the level plain below, upon which
Watkins is built. It is a notch or gorge between two of
these hills that forms the glen. Passing up Franklin
street a few minutes walk brings us to the entrance of the
glen. On either side stand frowning hills like monster
sentinels guarding the entrance, and from between themTO THE GLEN.
17
a limpid little stream runs out, and winds quietly to the
lake, across the level valley, as though tired from its angry
and tortuous passage through the glen, "buffeted by rocks
and broken into a hundred cascades, it was now resting,
idly reflecting the sunbeams, before taking its final plunge
into the cool depths of the lake.
Turning from the road we enter the defile between the
guarding hills, and commence our pilgrimage. The first
object that attracts our attention is a ruined mill standing
beside the stream, which serves to give an additional
picturesqueness to the scene. We pass under the dilapi-
dated flume of the mill and find ourselves ushered into a?
vast rocky amphitheatre, the walls of which rise in beet-
ling cliffs on either side. Ahead of us the walls almost
meet, and farther passage seems barred with the excep
tion of a narrow rift in the rocks, as if they had, by some
mighty power, been torn asunder. Through this narrow
portal the stream issues, and we can already hear the
music of falling water. As we draw nearer we see a
slender staircase, clinging to the cliff on the north side,
and entering the rift. As we try to penetrate the dark
recesses with the eye, we see a wall of rock extending
directly across the chasm, and apparently ending it. We
ascend the staircase, which although it looks slender, is
very strong and secure, and And ourselves in the entrance
of what is called Glen Alpha, or the first glen. As we
are climbing the staircase, we see that the channel makes
a sharp turn to the left, which accounts for the apparent18
tourist’s guide
obstruction. The Entrance Cascade now meets our view.
This is a narrow thread of water shooting out from an
angle in the rocks into a deep, dark pool thirty feet below.
At the head of the staircase is a little bridge spanning
the stream. Here we pause a few moments to rest and
take a look down through the amphitheatre we have just
left, at the ruined mill, out across the smiling valley to
the green hills beyond, and down through the jagged
edges of rook to the deep blue pool broken into circling
ripples by the falling column of water.
Here, for the first time, the delightful sensation steals
over us, produced by the invigorating and inspiring at-
mosphere. The air as it draws down through the glen is
cool, fresh and bracing, and is laden with a thousand
sweet odors. We look upward through the glen and
realize now the stupendous grandeur of this masterpiece
of nature, and seem to draw inspiration from its wild
magnificence. We feel new strength and an eagerness to
make the ascent. We seem to have forgotten the outer
world that we have left behind us, and to be in a kind of
fairy-land, the work of some ancient race of giants. One
of the sensations usually experienced, by those who visit
the glen for the first time, is one of apparent danger and
almost terror, but this rapidly wears away, and we see
that what appear to be dangerous places are not so in
reality. It may be well here to say that every precau-
tion has been taken to render the tour of the glen perfect-
ly safe. All that threatened danger has been removed,TO THE GLEN.
19
and every unsafe place guarded. Some passages that
seem dangerous are only a little difficult, and devoid of
any possible peril. It is a noteworthy fact that since the
opening of the glen as a place of public resort, no accident
has ever occured there, notwithstanding the thousands
upon thousands that have threaded its labyrinths un-
guided.
Looking upward from the point where we now stand
what a sight bursts upon us! Towering and irregular cliffs
of dark rock risifig one above another till they seem to
meet in the clouds, angular and sullen they seem to for-
bid approach! A little narrow thread of. sky is all that
reminds us of the world we have left, and that is barred
and spangled by patches of bright green foliage. “ All
the air a solemn stillness holds ” unbroken save by the
singing and plashing of some distant cascade, or occasion-
ally the murmuring ripple of the stream as it courses
through its rocky channel. At numerous places in the
glens we pause and wonder how we can possibly go much
farther, the way appears so impassable, and the distance
so inaccessible ; but as we advance the way always opens,
and gives far more interest to the ascent than though we
could clearly mark our way before us.
Crossing the bridge we see a short flight of steps hewn
in the rock on the south side. We ascend these, and
before us lies a pathway, also cut in the solid rock, lead-
ing along under the overhanging cliffs and some feet
above the stream. We are now fairly in The Entrance20
tourist’s guide
Gorge. As we gaze down into the pellucid depths of the
water, and up at the fa$ade of rock on the opposite side,
new beauties strike us at every step. The various hues
and tints of the rock, the eccentric combinations of curves
and angles, as if nature had, in a fit of lawlessness, en-
deavored to see what wildly grotesque and yet beautiful
images she could produce.
We now catch a glimpse of the second cascade, called
Minnehaha. It is a beautiful one, irregular and yet full
of grace. The water, broken several times in its fall, is
dashed into foam and spray, which forms a brilliant con-
trast to the dark rocky surroundings. Following the
path we come to a rustic seat, from which a charming
view is obtained in both directions, and here it would be
well to advise visitors not to press on too eagerly in
ascending the glen, but to proceed deliberately and fre-
quently look back, as in many cases the views, look-
ing down the glen, are the finest.	*
Looking forward at the narrow gorge we are about
entering, we see a staircase just above us, and beyond
that, we see still another, almost perpendicular in its
position, and of great height. This portion of the glen is
called The Labyrinth. The channel of the stream is here
very narrow. We cross by the plank which is thrown
over it, and ascending several steps cut in the rock, we
mount the staircase which again brings us to the south
bank. A little farther under the shelving cliffs of rock
and we are at the foot of The Long Staircase. Here, weTO THE GLEN.
21
are in a strangely wild and interesting place. Before
going up the staircase we will pass under it and up the
glen a little way. We find ourselves in a subterranean
grotto, almost circular in form, dark and damp, but sub-
limely grand. This is called The Gnome’s Grotto, and
one can easily imagine this dismal chamber to have been
the haunt of “ sprites of darkness.” Here the Cavern
Cascade leaps from the rocks above, down forty feet, into
a deep pool beneath. The cascade is a single column of
water not altogether unlike The Entrance Cascade, but
much grander. The rocky walls of the Grotto reverber-
ate the echoes of the falling water until the sound is fairly
deafening. Returning to the staircase we ascend fifty
feet, and are glad to avail ourselves of the rustic seat at
the top, for it is no easy pull up the forty-seven steps.
This is the head of the first glen, Glen Alpha. We look
back of us, and are never tired of the charming views
presented at every angle. Looking forward we see a
portion of the second glen, which is called Glen Obscura.
The peculiar formation of this part of the glen renders it
impassable, hence its name. It can, however, be all seen
from above. It contains no very remarkable features,
but forms a series of charming birds-eye views when seen
from the cliffs above. The section of Glen Obscura,
which we see from the head of the staircase is called The
Profile Gorge, from a striking Indian profile it contains,
of which we will speak hereafter. At the head of this
gorge are the remains of an old dam over which the water22
tourist’s guide
pours in an unbroken sheet. Far above, hanging appar-
ently suspended in mid-air in a setting of emerald foliage,
we see the stars and stripes of our national ensign. This
is at the Glen Mountain House.
After a refreshing rest, we again start upon our journey.
We scramble up a path that leads towards the entrance
of the glen, for a little way, and then turning sharply to
the left leads up the glen again, through the woods and
along the verge of the gorge. Here is Point Look-off,
where the path runs out to the top of a high cliff, and
commands a beautiful view of the glen below. We are
forcibly impressed with the miraculous beauty of the foli-
age, which appears all the brighter as we emerge from the
dark recesses of the glen. It is a singular fact that no-
where perhaps, upon the American continent, can such a
range of vegetation be found within such narrow limits
and in such close juxta-position. On the northern slopes,
in sheltered nooks, protected from the winds, and in a
great measure from frost and snow, and exposed to the
warm rays of the sun, the vegetation is almost tropical.
Many plants are there found, especially among the lowqr
orders, that are indigenous to Tennessee and the Caro-
linas. The fern family is largely represented, and some
of the most beautiful species are here found; many of
the varities attain a degree of luxuriance that astonishes
the student who is familiar with them. High up on the
southern cliffs, exposed to the keen north winds sweeping
down the lake, many plants are found that belong far toTO THE GLEN.
23
the north. Stunted firs, mosses and lichens that are rare-
ly found south of the Hudson’s Bay country are here re-
presented. The lamented Professor Pickett, who was a
botanist of rare merit, had long entertained a plan of
preparing a work upon the Botany of this remarkable
locality, which he had studied closely. This plan was
'terminated by his untimely death.
Pursuing this delightful path, by a gradual ascent we
come upon the Glen Mountain House, perched on a sort
of a natural shelf midway between the bed of the stream
and the top of the glen,high above theProfile Gorge and nest-
ling among the trees and shrubbery. To M. Ells & Co., the
proprietors of the Mountain House, the visitors’ thanks are
due, for opening to the world, at the cost of an immense
amount of labor and money, the marvellous beauties of
the glen. Their patience and indefatigable perseverance
have surmounted all the difficulties. When we reflect
upon the difficulty attendant upon getting the timber and
lumber, that has been used in the construction of the
buildings, stair-cases and bridges, to its present position;
it being impossible to use horses for the purpose; and
reflect that thousands of feet of the pathways and many
of the stairs, are cut in the solid rock; and that hundreds
of obstructions and threatening masses of stone have had
to be removed, we then see what has been accomplished.
The Mountain House is an unpretending structure, but is
a welcome sight to the tourist. The chairs and lounging
places upon its veranda are luxuries, indeed, after our24
TOURIST S GUIDE
tramp, and its refreshments are solid comforts. Here are
commodious dressing rooms for the accommodation of
guests. Those who are not fully prepared for the farther
ascent of the glen, can here array themselves suitably.
From the promenade in front of the house, we look
down into the gorge, and there, upon the edge of a rock
that juts out from the north bank, just below the Reser-
voir Fall, and standing out in bold relief against the
snowy whiteness of the water, can be seen the Profile.
It is composed of dark rock, and bears a wonderful
resemblance to an Indian face. It is more striking, if
possible, than the celebrated Old Man of the Mountain, in
the Franconia Notch.
After ample rest, we again start on our journey with
renewed vigor. Just above the Mountain House is a
convenient platform, erected for the use of pic-nic parties.
Our way lies through the woods by a shaded path, from
which we have frequent glimpses down into the Glen
Obscura, this portion of which is called the Mystic Gorge.
After our walk through the woods, the path gradually
descends until we are nearly on a level with the stream.
Here in the rocks, in all directions, are found the remains
of the same kind of pools that are now seen in the bed
of the stream. A word on the formation of these pools
may not prove uninteresting to those who are not already
familiar with them. In the early Spring, when the
stream is very high, and the ice is breaking up, large
quantities of rock, boulders, gravel and sand are carriedTO T$13 GLEU.
25
down from above, forced along by the tremendous power
of the water and the logs and trees that are uprooted.
Sometimes one of these boulders lodges in a natural seam
in the rock, or in a curve in the bed of the stream, and is
there whirled and rolled around until, aided by the sand
and gravel that collects, it gradually grinds out these
basins or pools in the softer rock beneath. This process
going on for years and years, has worn some of them to
an immense size. In many instances, at spme succeeding
flood, the boulder has been forced from its resting place at
the bottom of the pool and carried away, but in a great
number of cases, especially in the upper glens, the boul-
ders are still to be seen in the basins they have carved. The
remains of these basins are in many places to be seen now
high and dry, where the channel has changed and left them.
The popular idea concerning the formation of these glens,
$nd similar ones, is, that they have been gradually cut
from the roch, by the process y?e have just described,
\Yhich eon tinned year after year and century after century
has extended them to their present magnitude. Others
SuppQse it tq be an immense rift or fissure in the rock,
tqrn assunder by volcanic agency, and through which the
Stream has accidentally found its channel. The former
theory is the most reasonable, for we see slight changes in
the physical characteristics of the glen from year to year,
produced by the incessant wearing of the water and the
tremendous power of the freshets in the Spring, And20
tourist’s guide
why should not this process, continued for centuries,
have produced this grand result ?
Continuing our journey, our path leads us down toward
the water again. We see a succession of little rapids
and cascades leading into the Glen Obscura, of which
this is the termination. These are called the Sylvan
Rapids, and very beautifully they glide through their
irregular rock channel. At the head of the Sylvan
Rapids, a beautiful little rustic bridge spans the stream,
from which, as we cross to the south side, we have a
delightful birds-eye view, down, through the Glen Obscura
for a long distance, of its many windings and mysterious
recesses. This upper section of the Glen Obscura has
been named The Whirlpool Gorge.
Leaving the bridge and pushing forward a few steps,
we find ourselves in Glen Cathedral, which is the third
glen. This is truly a masterpiece of nature’s handiwork.
Here all description fails. Mere words are inadequate to
paint a picture that would do this subject justice, or convey
to the mind an, idea of its grandeur. It is true the
principal characteristics can be described, and measure-
ments given, but what pen can tell the inspiring sensations
that crowd upon us as we stand in this mighty presence
chamber ? We are seized with a reverential awe, and feel
an almost irresistable desire to uncover and bow our
heads as if we were, indeed, in the great tabernacle of the
Supreme Architect of the Universe, reared with his own
hands. The Cathedral is in the form of an immense,.TO THE GLEN.
27
oblong amphitheatre, nearly a quarter of a mile in length.
The glen is here wider than at any other point, the rocky
walls tower to a great height, and are richly draped and
tapestried with mosses and clinging vines. The floor is
composed of a smooth and even surface of rock, the
vaulted arch of sky forms the dome. In the upper end
the Central Cascade forms the Choir, and as it dashes
from rock to rock, sings continual hymns of praise to the
infinite power that created this mighty temple. Alluding
to the peculiar feelings inspired by this stupendous work
of nature, a worthy friend of the writer’s, with whom he
once visited it, said, “ I have often reflected upon the
insignificance of man, but, never so fully realized what a
mere atom I was in this incomprehensible universe, as
when standing in this vast Cathedral and looking up at
its towering walls.” Such, indeed, is the sensation
produced.
Passing through, on the south side of the Cathedral, we
come to another beautiful pool, situated near the upper
end—The Pool of the Nymphs. This is one of the most
remarkable of these natural basins, singular for its re-
gularity and the surpassing beauty of its form. We are here
struck, more than ever before, by the wonderful clearness
and purity of the water. As the sun strikes into it, it
sparkles until it is fairly radiant. In pools where the
water is ten or fifteen feet deep the smallest objects upon
the bottom are clearly discernable. Its refracting and
distorting powers also are very great. We pass another28
tourist’s guide
series of minaiture rapids and cascades,and come to the foot
of the Grand Staircase, by which we are to ascend into
the fourth glen. This staircase is in two sections, and is
seventy feet in height. As we ascend the Grand Stair-
case we obtain one of the grandest views of the Cathedral,
possible to imagine. We seem suspended in mid-air,
with the section,through which we have just passed spread
out before us. Turning from this we obtain also a fine
view of the Central Cascade at our feet. This fall is a
very beautiful one, angular and irregular, yet symme-
trical.
After ascending the staircase we find ourselves in The
Glen of Pools, so named from the number of the rock
basins it contains. Pursuing the path on the north bank
a short distance, we come to a pretty rustic bridge, from
which is viewed, what has been appropriately termed»
The Matchless Scene. This view seems to combine
within itself all of the manifold beauties of the glens. It
is indescribable. Broken and angular, in its formation,rock
and water, cascades and deep pools, winding channels and
seething rapids,foliage and sky, all combined in a chaotic in-
termingling, yet forming a harmonious and picturesque
whole. As we follow the pathway cut in the rock we are
never tired of admiring the manifold beauties of the
water. The sunlight shimmering down through the foliage
strikes into the pools, waking their crystal depths into
life; new phases of magical beauty striking us at every
step like the ever varying changes in a kaleidoscope.TO THE GLEN.
29
We notice here* as well as in every part of the glen,
the total absence of animal life. The water is too rapid
for fish to live in; the myriads of insects, that usually
swarm in woodland places, find nothing congenial in the
cool, dark recesses of the glen, and rarely, a stray bird
finds the way into its weird galleries. The woods that
line the upper portions of the glen, not many years since,
formed a cover for deer, black bears, wolves, panthers
and numberless other inhabitants of the forest. All that
now remaine is ail occasional fox, racoon, or otter. On
the pinnacal of some of the loftiest and most inaccessible
cliffs, eagles build their nests and rear their young, undis-
turbed by the march of civilization. They are carefully
protected by a rigid law which places a heavy penalty
upon their destruction.
We pause here to rest and refresh ourselves. This is
indeed an Elysium. All is hushed,
“ As though the whole bright summer scene were set
To the unuttered melody of Kest! ”
“ How still each leaf of my oak canopy,
That holds a forest syllable at heart,
Yet cannot stir enough in all its veins
To give the murmur’d woodland sentance start.”
In such a place as this, it seems as if we could dream
our life away. Leaving this point we follow the path on
the south bank, through this section of the glen, employ-
ing our time in examining the curious structure of the
pools*30
tourist’s guide
We come to a little staircase on the south bank, where-
by we are to ascend to a more elevated path; but before
we do so, we pass by it and a little farther up the glen,
and obtain a fine view of the Triple Cascade and Rainbow
Ralls. The Triple Cascade is deemed by many to be the
finest in the glen. As its name indicates, it is composed
of three portions, one above the other, each different in
form from the others, and forming a beautiful combina-
tion. Just below the Triple Cascade, on the south side,
a little brook leaps over the brow of the cliff, down into
the glen, trickling over the irregular surface of the cliff
until it reaches a point some twelve or fifteen feet above
the pathway, here it falls over a projecting shelf of rock,
the edge of which is curved in a cresent form. The water
does not descend in a smooth sheet, but in a myrid of
tiny threads and drops, forming a sparkling crystal veil
behind which the pathway passes. Beyond and above
the Triple Cascade, spanning a narrow pass in the gorge,
we see the Platform Staircase. This upper section of
The Glen of the Pools is called The Giants Gorg’e. We
return to the little staircase and ascend to the elevated
pathway, and follow it, taking in new views of The Triple
Cascade at every step. Finally we come to the Rainbow
Fall, and pass behind it. The space between the fall
and the cliff is narrow, but yet sufficiently wide to allow
free passage. While standing behind the fall and looking
out, through the misty curtain, the effect is beautiful be-
yond comparison. The novelty of the position, and theTO THE GLEN.
81
peculiar brilliancy that the radiant drops of falling water
impart to all viewed through them, fill us with wonder.
Pausing a few moments to take a backward look at the
beautiful Glen of Pools and the Matchless Scene, we pass
the Triple Cascade, and under overhanging rocks,we come
to a staircase leading up the south bank. This brings us
to an inclined platform thrown across to the north bank,
and from this platform another staircase rises to the south
cliff again. This structure is called The Platform Stair-
case. There are seats upon the platform which we find
very welcome 4after our climb, and enjoy the sightly
situation we occupy. Here we obtain another fine
retrospective view of The Glen of Pools with its 'shadowy
gorges, and also a more defined view of the Rainbow
Fall, showing its course before it takes its final leap into
the gorge. We are now to pass through Glen Difficulty,
so named from the great difficulties which were encounter-
ed in opening it to the world. In this section of the glen
some of the most severe labor had to be performed, and
its final accomplishment was the highest compliment to
the engineering skill of those who had it in charge. Look-
ing up the glen we see the beautiful Shadow Gorge. We
leave the Platform, ascend the second section of the stair-
case, and follow the path along the south cliff. The path
is narrow and cut in the solid rocky face of the cliff. It
winds in and out, following the curves of the gorge, and
is high above the water. We proceed cautiously, fearing
lest a mis step would precipitate us far into the gulf be-32
tourist’s guide
ldw; but with a reasonable amount of care there is rio
possible danger. We now see how appropriately this has
been named The Shadow Gorge. The trees on the cliffs
above are Very high, and in many places almost meet
overhead, &s the light strikes ddwn through them
their shadows &re cast upon the cliffs, and their forms
reproduced in the pools below, until a combination of
beautiful lights and shadows is produced, that surpasses
all description. Here the stream seems to be a succes-
sion of basins connected by rapids and little falls. Ahead
of us is a pretty rustic bridge spanning the stream, and
just before we come to it, one of the most beautiful of
pools; it is very regular in form, the bottom covered
with gravel, and the water of great purity and brilliance.
While upon the bridge we pause for another look dowii
the Shadow Gorge, with its ever varying studies Of light
and shade. Looking up the glen, our journey seems to
come to a sudden termination, shut off by a wall as re*
gular as if composed of solid masonry.
We see* on approaching nearer, that the glen makes a
sudden turn to the right, around this great cliff that
appears to obstruct our farther progress. At this place
the seams in the rock intersect each other at right angles,
giving to the whole the effect of masonry. The corner
formed by this cliff on the south side, also, conveys thO
idea of the work of human hands. The mosses and ferns
are here very fine, indeed, and serve to relieve the mon-
otony of the grey rocks. Crossing the bridge, our path$0 THE GLftN.
33
lies along the north bank. Directly at the foot of this
frowning cliff is a large, and very deep pool. The water
is from twelve to fifteen feet deep, and as clear as crystal*"
Tt passes under the sharp angle of the cliff, and mirrors
in its pellucid depths, an inverted picture of the frowning
rocks and graceful foliage above. We turn to the right,
and our path lies along near the stream, winding around
the angles of the cliff. The water trickling from above*
and running down over the rocks,makes our pathway damp
but not slippery ; still some little caution is necessary to
keep ourselves upright. The gorge before us is known as
the Narrow Pass. The walls tower high on either side*
and approach near together. After rounding another
sharp curve, we come to one of the apparently difficult
passages in the glen, although in reality, it is not so. We
are here obliged to cross the stream by means of large
stones, placed near together in the bed of the brook.
Having crossed to the south side, we see that our path-
way lies som6 tenor twelve feet above our present level*
and in order to reach it we must climb up a flight of
steps composed of a number of niches, cut in the almost
perpendicular surface of the cliff. There is a rail to
assist us in climbing, and we find that it is very easily
accomplished, although, viewed from the opposite bank, it
appears to border on impossibility. Having gained the
elevated pathway, we proceed along the south side,
through the Narrow Pass, under shelving rocks that extend
far out over our heads. Passing around an angle, we come
2*34
tourist’s guide
in sight of Pluto Falls. This is the termination of Glen
Difficulty. Into this pass the rays of the sun never shine.
It appears like a subterranean gallery. The air is damp
and cold, and the dashing and rumbling of the Pluto
Fall as it echoes through the pass, adds to the gloomy
sublimity of the spot. As we draw nearer to the fall,
our path ascends, and we obtain a fine view of it. It is one
of singular beauty, and essentially different in form from
any we have yet seen. It falls into a dark basin below,
which is so deep that we cannot see any objects in it,
We climb the pathway that leads around the fall; and
take leave of Glen Difficulty. We stop to take a farewell
look at the Narrow Pass, or, as it is called when viewed
from this point, The Spiral Gorge, and enter the last
section of the glen, which is called Glen Arcadia, and
well it deserves the name, for a more perfect Elysium
cannot be imagined. The scene before us has been
called The Artist’s Dream. Here all the beauties of the
other glens, silver cascades and crystal pools, light and
shadow, sharp angles and graceful curves, foliage, sky and
rock all mingle and produce a picture that more resem-
bles an ecstatic dream, than anything that can elsewhere
be found. The rocks do not here tower to such an
immense height, nor is the scenery so sublime as in some
of the glens through which we have passed, but, what is
lost in grandeur, is atoned for, in the exquisite beauty of
this scene. Our pathway now lies along the south side to
the head of the glen, and the way is now clear before us.TO THE GLEN*
35
As we pass through, we are lost in the admiration of the
manifold beauties that are here crowded together. The
rapids are the most beautiful in the glens. The channel
is tortuous, and, as in the Glen of Pools, consists of a
succession of curiously carved basins connected by narrow
rapids and cascades.
Passing under shelving rocks, we finally arrive at the
head of the glen, formed by The Arcadian Palls. This
is a beautiful unbroken cascade, some twenty ft. in height,
falling into a kind of natural grotto. At the foot of the
fall is a beautiful basin, and upon the verge of the fall
rests an immense stump. This is the end of our pilgrim-
age. We sit down to rest after our weary ascent, for we
have passed through two miles of hard climbing, and are
eight hundred feet above our starting point. We are not
content to stop here, but, like Alexander, sighing for more
worlds to conquer, we regret that we cannot press on
still farther, unravelling the mysteries to these cavernous
labyrinths.
After a quiet rest at the Arcadian Palls we start on
our return. We take it leisurely, and stop frequently to
admire the numberless beauties, that escaped us on our
ascent. And, we may here say, that the glen is so
extensive and complicated, that one may make many
visits there, and yet, on each visit find new features that
he had not hitherto seen. Sometimes a difference of a
few feet in his position will materially alter the outline
of the picture before him. It is not unfrequently the caseTOURIST^ GUliSfi
36
that the visitor more fully realizes and appreciates the
extent, sublimity and grandeur of the glen, after he has
once or twice accomplished its ascent. We wend our
way back, through Glen Arcadia, Glen Difficulty, down
the Platform Staircase and through the Glen of Pools td
the Grand Staircase. Here we stop a few minutes to
look with wonder, down into the grand old Cathedral,
and finally, after descending the staircase, passing through
the C&Uiedral, and retracing the winding path through
the woods, We find ourselves again at the Glen Mountain
House. Again, it is a most welcome spot; and again,are
its refreshments very acceptable. After loitering here A
while, we take leave df the Mountain House and its
proprietor, and resuiiie bur homeward journey, but, not
by the path we came. Very few return through the
glen from this point. The Long Staircase, although
ascended with comparative ease, is too steep to be de-
scended with perfect Safety, and, were the return through
the glen entirely Safe, we should recommend another path
as promising fresh beauties.
Leaving the Mountain House, instead of following the
path that leads to the Long Staircase, we take one that
bears off to the left, along the slope of the hill. This
leads us through beautiful groves, and affords us occasion-
al glimpses down into the dizzy depths of Glen Alpha.
The roar of the cascades, and cool vapors arising froift
them reaches us even at this height. As we leave the
woods we come out into the most beautiful of cemeteries.Jo THE &LEk.	St
Instead of following the road that leads through th^ ceme-
tery and down onto the village, we choose a path that en-
ables us to climb still farther up to the summit of Table
Mountain, as it is called. We sit down to rest, beneath
the stunted evergreens that grdw upon the brow of the
mountain, and gaze, with mingled delight and amazement
at the scene before us. The valley, for miles, lies spread
out, like a map, at our feet, forming a perfect picture, not
lacking in any particular. Directly below us lies Watkins
with its shaded avenues, its beautiful churches, public
buildings, warehouses, hotels, etc. At the wharf lie
several steamers and a variety of small craft, for Seneca
Lake has quite an extensive commerce. The houses h&Ve
a substantial and comfortable air, and are surrounded by
beautiful grounds, ornaihented with fine trees and shrub-
bery. To the north, the lake stretches away as far as the
eye can reach, with the sky and clouds mirrored upon its
bright blue surface. The hills sweep back from the lake
in graceful undulations, the picturesque little towns and
villages clinging to their sides, and nestling in the valleys.
Back from the lake, miles of well-tilled farms meet our
View, and on the slopes of the‘hills, hundreds of flourishing
vineyards are making their appearance. Following tihe
track of the Northern Central R. R., with the eye, along
the western shore of the lake, we see an immense coal-
wharf. Here the coal that is brought down from
the Pennsylvania mines by rail, is transferred to barges
and conveyed by water. Great trains of these coal cars38
tourist’s guide
may be seen at almost every hour of the day, each
freighted with its precious cargo of fuel. In transferring
the coal from cars to boats, the train is run out upon the
inclined platform that wo see extending out into the lake,
elevated sufficiently to allow the boats to pass under.
The coal is then dropped through from the cars into the
boats. Above Watkins, the valley is as smooth and
level as a floor, while on either side, the range of hills
raise abruptly from the plain, towering, one above the
other, far to the south, growing wilder and more rugged,
until farther view is finally shut out by Buck Mountain,
which seems to stand at the head of the valley. About
three miles above Watkins lies the village of Havana,
which has been for some years the county-seat of Schuy-
ler County, until recently, Watkins was made the county
town. The immense brick building, that we see in Havana,
looming up above all the others, is the one formerly
intended to be used by the People’s College, but, upon
the failure of that institution, it was closed, and has been
recently sold to the Masonic Fraternity, to be used for
educational purposes. We regret, very much, to leave
our elevated position on Table Mountain, and descend to
the lower world, but, after a refreshing rest from our
wearisome rambles, and after reviewing the panoramic
scene below us, and gaining new strength from the pure
breezes that sweep the lake, we start down toward the
village, stopping only to admire the beaufiful situation of
the “ City of the Dead,” through which we pass.TO THE GLEN.
39
To the lover of the sublime, no grander picture can be
imagined than to stand upon Table Mountain and watch
a storm coming up the lake. The clouds rolling along
over the hill-tops, the veils of falling mist gradually shut-
ting out our view of the distance, the lake lashed into
foam by the wind, and the shadows flying over the land-
scape, produce an effect the grandeur of which cannot be
realized, until it has been witnessed.
After returning to the village, if the visitor has time,
there are a number of delightful drives in the neighbor-
hood of Watkins that offer tempting inducements. One
especially, we cannot refrain from mentioning. It is the
road leading from Watkins to Havana, and still farther
up the valley. It lies along the level plain on the west
side of the valley, under precipitous hills and frowning
cliffs, on the one side, and the beautiful plain, with its
border of hills on the other. The road is hard and
smooth, and margined with trees and shrubbery. At
one point, near Havana, a little brook falls over the edge
of the cliff, making a very fine cascade. There is a little
niche in the face of the rock, near the verge of the fall, in
which, an ancient legand says, great treasures were hid-
den. This whole district lying around the lake was once
the hunting ground of the Senecas. In accordance with
the manifest destiny of the race to which they belonged,
they have ail passed away, leaving naught behind them,
save their strange and poetic legends, many of which
have been preserved and handed down to the present40
tfomilST’s GUIDE
Almost every spot has some historical interest, and
■with very many of the localities are associated some
of those wild imaginative tales of the wars, loves
or wrongs of that race which is fast becoming extinct.
These legends clothe their scenes with a deep interest.
We can almost imagine their dusky heroes bending “ at
midnight, from the solemn West,” returning to the hunt-
ing grounds of their fathers, and once more peopleing
these charmed shores.
Just back of the village of Havana is another glen
called the Glen Montour. It can be seen from the
road At its entrance is one of the finest cascades in the
neighborhood. It seems suspended in mid-air above the
village. Over the cascade a little bridge spans the gorge.
This glen is named from the celebrated Catharine Mon-
tour, and, also, has its historic associations.
To all that can possibly find time, we would say, do
not fail to make the trip on Seneca Lake, from Watkins
to Geneva ! It will richly reward any one. The afternoon
trip is usually the pleasantest. The steamer Duncan S*.
Magee, leaves Watkins at 3.30 o’clock daily,and arrives at
Geneva at 8.00. Captain Dey and his steward, Mr. Gilbert*
are great favorites with the travelling public, and spare
no pains to render the guests comfortable, and the voyage
a delightful one. We have already spoken of the charm-
ing scenery of the lake. At Bock Stream Point and
Big Stream Point, on the west shore, cascades leap from
the glens above, into the water. The gorges are spannedTO THE GLEN.
41
by two slender bridges over which pass the Northern
Central Kail way. We also have a fine view of Hector
Falls, on the eastern shore. The steamer makes a num-
ber of stops, crossing and re-crossing from one landing
to another. North Hector landing is a most beautiful
spot. A broad gravelly road sweeps along the beach,
shaded by a row of drooping willows, which, reflected in
the lake, produce a beautiful effect. The approach to
Geneva is very beautiful. The stately mansions and
college buildings situated on the hill, command a grand
view of the lake, and look beautifully from the water.
Having finished our description of the Glen and its
surroundings, we will now give a few general hints to
those who propose to visit the Glen, and have not yet
learned from experience, what is necessary to enable them
to perform the journey with comfort and pleasure.42
tourist’s guide
Hints to Visitors.
A great many visitors meet with inconvenience and
disappointment, by not knowing the kind of dress proper
fto be worn while going through the glens. In many
places the paths are quite narrow, and are bordered by
erns and mosses that collect moisture, from which long
and expansive skirts are apt to suffer. It is frequently
necessary to use the hands in climbing the stairways and
paths, and consequently it is inconvenient to have a long
dress to manage. Glen dresses should be made so short
as not to interfere with walking or climbing, and as nar-
row as possible. The less there is about the costume to
encumber the free use of the feet and arms, the better.
Long cloaks, shawls, parasols, etc., are inconvenient and
superfluous, and should be left at the hotel or at the Glen
Mountain House. We have frequently seen ladies, going
through the glen, wearing the woolen bathing dresses
usually worn at the sea-side. These are just the thing,
and such as have them will find them very convenient.
The dress should be of woolen material, for even in mid-
summer the glens are cool, and in many places quite
damp. Any hat will do, but one that will not be injured
by an occasional drop of water, is the best. Thick shoes
or boots are much safer for walking on the moist paths
and stairways, than rubbers. It is better to prepare for
the ascent before entering the glen ; but such as do not
care to prepare themselves at the hotel, will find a com-TO THE GLEN-.
43
modious room at the Glen Mountain House. In the case
of gentlemen, it matters less about suitable dress. Silk
hats and fine boots are the only articles liable to suffer
much from the trip. A stout cane will be found a valua-
ble assistance in climbing.
In passing through the glen, it is not well to wander a
great way from the regular paths, as many, anxious to
explore new localities, or obtain a view from some diffi-
cult point, might be in danger before they were aware of
it. And here, a word of caution. Visitors will observe
placards at several places, warning them not to throw
stones into the glen. Many do this to hear the noise
made by the stones, crashing down through the trees and
over the rocks. The reasons why it should not be allowed
are obvious, as it must endanger the life of those who
may happen to be in the glen below. We would also
like to say a word with regard to those who are ambi-
tious to immortalize themselves by carving their names
and the date of their visitation upon the face of the rocks,
bridges, trees, etc. It is unquestionably a laudable desire
to wish to leave some monument behind us in this life,
but a serious thought upon the subject will convince any
reasonable person, that it is not worth while to mar the
beauty and seriously deface such pleasant localities by
executing the said laudable desire. In one of his works,
Bayard Taylor wishes that the man who chiselled his
name in letters a foot long on the base of one of the
Cplossi at Thebes could b% inflicted with a nightly in-44
tourist’s guide
cubus for the rest of his natural life, the chief object of
which should be this gigantic figure resting upon his
breast. Many of the beautiful rocks along the Hudson
River have been converted into unsightly advertising
placards. The fine trees upon Goat Island, and other
pkii?£ in the neighborhood of Niagara, are so carved with
unmeaning names as to seriously interfere with their sym-
metrical growth. Nor has the glen entirely escaped from
such outrages* It may be drawing too fine a point, but
it seems to us, that this practice is downright sacrilege.
Those who wish to record their visit will find a register
provided for the purpose at the Mountain House.
Pic-nic parties should also be particularly careful not
to strew papers, egg-shells, and the remains of their re-
pasts in conspicuous places in the glen, where they will
mar the beauties of the scenery.
The proper time for visiting the glen is anywhere from
the middle of May to the first of November. The finest
views are to be obtained when the water is high, after
the spring freshets, or after heavy rains. However, the
water is never low enough to injure the beauty of the
cascades and rapids. In winter, when the cascades be
come solid glaciers, and when icicles, many tons in weight,
are pendant from the cliffs, the views are gorgeous be-
yond all description. The ascent is then exceedingly
difficult and perilous ; few have ever attempted it. Last
winter, however, it was successfully accomplished, and by
the aid of a photographic camera, a series of grand winterTO THE GLEN.
45
views were obtained that will give one a distinct idea of
the glen while bound in the fetters of the Ice-king. A
perfect series of the summer views in the glen has also
been made, presenting a complete panorama of the entire
length, and skilfully arranged for the stereoscope, for
albums, or for framing. They are taken in the hu st
style of photographic art, and form pleasant souvenirs of
a visit to the glen. Complete sets of them will be found
at the Glen Mountin Honse.
We would advise visitors going through the glen to
take advantage of all the rustic seats and every conven-
ient place for rest. The scenery fills visitors with
wonder, and causes so much eagerness to press on to the
end, the air is so invigorating, and the journey affords so
much pleasure, that they are apt to entirely forget bodily
"fatigue, and find, upon coming out into the world again,
a kind of reaction, and that they are very much fatigued.
Do not let the cautions we have suggested, or the
advice we have given, discourage any from attempting
the ascent; for, when taken in a reasonable manner, it is
easy, free from all possible danger, and will richly reward
all who accomplish it. What we have said has only
been to aid those who have not yet visited it, and to
guard them against the annoyances that the inexperienced
sometimes suffer. Thirty thousand people visited the
glen last year alone, and it is expected that number will
be doubled this year, yet no accident worthy of note has
ever occurred here.46
tourist’s guide.
Before concluding we will give a table of the distances
from Watkins to various points. This may be of value
to those living at a distance, who wish to visit the glens :
DISTANCE FROM WATKINS TO
Miles.
Canandaigua.....................................   47
Geneva, via. Seneca Lake.......................... 40
Syracuse, by rail................................ 122
Rochester......................................... 76
Buffalo, via. N. Y. C. R. R......................  145
“	“ ErieR. R........................... 181
Niagara Falls...................................   153
Elmira..........................................   22
New York, via. N. Y. C. R. R......................414
“	“	“ ErieR. R...........................296
Williamsport.....................................  100
Philadelphia, via. Baltimore..................... 376
Baltimore........................................  278THE
Jefferson House,
WATKIHS, SCHUYLER CO., H. Y„
(HEAD OF SENECA LAKE.)
WILL ACCOMMODATE TnThUNDRED GUESTS.
---o—o---
FT1HE JEFFERSON HOUSE is a large and first class Hotel,
having recently been enlarged, refurnished, provided with
marble floors, and in all respects greatly improved. Among its
other claims to popular favor, is the fact that it is
LOCATED NEAREST TO THE FAMOUS GLEN,
which is now visited annually by Tens of Thousands of People,
from all sections of the United States and the Canadas.
Special attention will be paid to parties visiting the Glen, and
every effort be made to render their sojourn in Watkins pleasant
and agreeable. The tables are supplied with all the delicacies of
the season. Rooms pre-engaged by letter or telegram on reasonable
terms, and no charges made for polite and courteous treatment.
GOOD & WELL CONDUCTED BILLIARD ROOMS
With latest style Tables, are connected with the House, and the
Bar will be found inferior to none in Central and Western New
York.
|HJp~A Porter in attendance on all Trains and Steamboats, and
Carriages furnished promptly on order. A large and well filled
Barn and ample accommodations for one hundred horses.
yjf”The Proprietor flatters himself that with many years ex«
perience in hotel life, close attention to business, and competent
assistants, that he can guarantee satisfaction to all who favor him
with their presence and patronage.
A, W. BOGART, Prop.
47SENECA LAKE HIGHLAND
-A.T WATKINS.
FRIT AND ORNAMENTAL TREES,
PLANTERS AND DEALERS.
Office and Specimen Grounds,
Near the Entrance to the Glen.
CATALOGUES FUENISHED.
E. C. FROST,
WATKINS, N, V,
A Q	W * *G. F. GATES’
OVER 3d NATIONAL BANK,
Photagraphs. of f§le& Scenery,
CABINET VIEWS,
CAJEtD VIEWS,
STEBEOSCOTIC VIEWS,
3?laln. or Colored,
In sets, embracing an immense number of views in the Glen in
Summer and "Winter, forming a perfect panorama
of its entire length.
The trade stipplied at reasonable rates.
We have every facility for making all kinds of Pictures—
MAMMOTHS, CARDS, CABINET CARDS, Etc.
Particular attention paid to
Copying, also to Colored and India Ink Work.
Gv F. GATES,
WATKINS, N. Y.Leaves Geneva at 9 A.M.ILeaves Watkins at 3:30 P.M.
ARRIVES at WATKINS AT 2 P. M. I ARRIVES AT GENEVA AT 7:30 P. M.
-----------------------O--0-----
The Steamer contains all that can make the trip pleasant and
comfortable, and every attention is paid to guests.
M. J. GILBERT,	D. P. DET,
Steward.	Captain.
FREEH’S &XiXSN,
^Watkins, 1ST. Y.,
M. ELLS & CO., Proprietors.
---O—0---
This house is beautifully situated in the Glen, a short distance
from its entrance, where Refreshments of all kinds will be found.
^Attached to the house are commodious Dressing Rooms for
Ladies.Jas. D. Cameron, President; J. N. Du Bakby, Gen. Supt.; J. 8. Leib, Treas.;
R. 8 Hollins, Sec., and J. M. Drill, Gen. Eastern Freight Agent, Balti-
more. Isaac M. Schermerhorn, Gen. West. Freight Agent, Buffalo,
N.Y. E. 8. Young, Gen. Freight and Passenger Agent, Baltimore.
Mis.	STATIONS.	Mis.
	.... Washington		
		Philadelphia....	
0		325
7		318
12		313
20		.Sparks		305
23		Monkton		302
29		296
35		290
42		283
46	.Hanover Junction..	279
49		276
57		York		268
72	.. ..Goldsborough...	253
84		241
85		240
91		234
93	...... Dauphin......	232
99	...,Clark’s* Ferry....	226
106		Halifax		219
111	... Millersburg		214
122		Georgetown		203
126	.Trevorton Junct’n.	199
133	....Selin’s Grove		192
138		Snnbury		187
178	.. ..Williamsport		147
186	.. ..Oogan Valley....	139
192		138
202		123
218		Canton		107
231		94
236	.Columbia X Roads.	89
256		Elmira		69
262		63
266		59
269		Millport'....	56
275		Havana		50
278	...WATKINS..	47
289		36
301		24
311		Hall’s		14
314		11
319		6
325	.... Canandaigua....	0
		
		Buffalo		
	.. v.Niagara Falls ...	
	.Suspension Bridge.		
THE
Most Direct Route
FOR
People Mini ft Glen,
FROM ANY DIRECTION.
--o—o-
EACH WAY DAILY.
Close Connections
WITH ALL POINTS
EAST,
WEST,
NORTH,
SOUTH.