FLOWER-SPRECHER gig Library gi AN = hs CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY iy \Zy LE EY arte, ROSA BoNHEuR. A TYPICAL HORSE, FROM A PAINTING BY THE WORLD’S GREATEST ANIMAL, PAINTER. THE SUCCESSFUL STOCKMAN AND MANUAL OF HUSBANDRY. Editor-in-Chief, ANDREW A. GARDENIER, Pu. D., Author of Standard Physiology, Standard Physician’s Manikin, Anatomical Study, etc. Assistant Editors, H. D. GILL, V. St, Dean New York College of Veterinary Surgeons. Hon. F. R. GILBERT, Judge of Supreme Court of New Youk. The King-Riehardson Co. Springfield, Mass. RIcHMOND. Des Mores. INDIANAPOLIS. San Jost. DALLAS. TOoLEeDo. 1901. A OL Cay uy UIQ OF Ts | ie hos i Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year eighteen hundred and ninety-nine, BY THE KING-RICHARDSON COMPANY, In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Relea TABLE OF CONTENTS. THE HORSE. Management in Sickness and Health. Diseases and How to Cure Them. CHAPTER I. MANAGEMENT AND CARE. PAGE. Intelligence Required. Our Domestic Animals. First Requisites. Box- Stall. Good Bed. Clothing. Remove Shoes. Food. Bran Mash. Linseed Mash. Bread Mash. Fresh Water Important. Hand Rub- bing. Cold Water Bathing of the Legs. Steaming. How to Make Poultices. Blisters. Antiseptics. Deodorizers. Hot Water Bathing. Slings. Bandages. Rarey’s System of Throwing or Casting. How to Give Medicine. Electuaries. Injections. Giving a Ball. Making a Ball. Giving Liquids. General Advice... ..........00.06. 23 CHAPTER II. FEEDING AND CARE, General Requisites. Watering Horses When Warm. The Quantity of Water Required. Kinds of Food. Digestion of Two Kinds. Feed Oats After Hay. Common Error. Horse Has a Small Stomach. Ten Pounds of Hay a Day. Description of the Value of the Various Grains, Roots, and Dried and Green Grasses............ 36 VI. TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. PAGE. DRUGS AND MEDICINE, THEIR DOSES AND EFFECTS. Time Required for Drugs to Take Effect. Explanation of the Effect of Drugs. Doses of Medicine According to Age. How Often to Give Medicine. Table of Drugs. Their Doses and External and Internal Action. Common Names for a Few Drugs.......... CHAPTER IV. THE DIGESTIVE ORGANS. Description of the Alimentary Canal. Diseases of the Teeth, Mouth, Gullet and Csophagus, Stomach, Intestines, Liver, Intestinal Worms, Classification of the Causes That Produce Colic....... CHAPTER V. THE RESPIRATORY ORGANS. Description of the Organs of the Thoracic Cavity. Diseases of the Nostrils, Nasal Chambers, Sinuses, Pharynx, Larynx, Wind- Pipe, Bronchi, Bronchial Tubes, Air-cells, Pleura, Etc...... CHAPTER VI. THE CIRCULATORY ORGANS. Description of the Heart, Arteries, and Veins. Inflammatory Dis- eases. Functional and Organic Diseases of the Heart. Diseases of the Arteries, Veins, and the Lymphatic System......... CHAPTER VII. THE NERVOUS SYSTEM. Divisions of the Nervous System. Functions of the Various Parts. Inflammation of the Brain. Mad Staggers. Sunstroke. Spasm of the Thigh. Lock-Jaw. Hydrophobia. Electric Shock. Etc... 1 CHAPTER VIII. THE URINARY ORGANS. Diabetes Insipidus. Saccharine Diabetes. Bloody Urine. Poisoning by Albuminoids. Inflammation of the Kidneys. Spasm of the Bladder. Inflammation of the Bladder. Urinary Calculi. Ete. . 1 41 49 73 OI 13 TABLE OF CONTENTS. : VII. CHAPTER IX. PAGE. GALLS AND BRUISES. Abscesses or Boils Caused by Contusion. Bruises and Their Treat- ment. Chafing by the Harness, and Saddle or Collar Galls. Etc. 125 CHAPTER X. GENERAL DISEASES. Influenza, Pink-Eye or Epizooty. Strangles. Distemper or Ca- tarrhal Fever. Pleuro-Pneumonia. Horse-Pox, and Rabies. ... 131 CHAPTER XI. GLANDERS OR FARCY. Glanders and Farcy the Same Disease. Can be Communicated to Man. Chronic Farcy. Chronic Glanders. Acute Farcy Glanders. 151 CHAPTER XII. EXTERNAL EVIDENCES OF MANY DISEASES. The Common Names Given to Deformities. Their Causes Produc- ing Many Familiar Diseases. Lack of Conformation. ..... 163 CHAPTER XIII. KNEE, FETLOCK, ANKLE, AND FOOT. Anatomical Description of the Parts. Physiological Functions. Faults of Formation. Interfering. Cocked Ankles. Wind Galls. Quittor. Corns. Sand-Cracks. Ringbone. Splint. Spavin. Etc. 169 CHAPTER XIV. THE SKIN. Structure of the Skin. Cracked Heels or Scratches. Nettle Rash or Surfeit. Horny Sloughs or Sitfasts. Warts. Congestion with Pimples. Animal and Vegetable Parasites. Fistula. Etc... . 227 CHAPTER XV. SHOEING. Why Necessary. Common Errors. Preparing the Foot for the Shoe. The Shoe. Finishing Touches. Winter Shoeing. Special Shoeing. 242 ° CHAPTER XVI. THE TEETH. Age as Indicated by the Teeth. Alterations in the Teeth. Temporary Teeth. Permanent Teeth. Parrot Mouth. Bishop-ing. Etu. ... 255 VIII. TABLE OF CONTENTS. CATTLE DEPARTMENT. THE VARIOUS BREEDS. PAGE. The Short-horns. Their Characteristics. Climate Adapted to the Short-horns, The Herefords. Asa Dairy Cow. Asa Working Ox. As a Beef Animal. Aberdeen-Angus. Characteristics. The Devons. Description. The Ayrshires. As a Dairy Cow. Asa Beef Animal. The Jerseys. Their Characteristics. The Red Polls. The Holsteins and their Characteristics. ........ 271 DISEASES. Mtomatitis. Sore Throat. Choking. Hoven, Tympanitis, or Bloat- ing. Indigestion. Colic. Loss of Cud. Diarrhea. Dysentery. White Scours. Inflammation of the Bowels. Worms. Jaundice. Liver Diseases. Peritonitis. Pleurisy. Pneumonia. Bloody Urine. Contagious Abortion. Mange or Itch. Lousiness. Etc. 298 GENERAL TOPICS. Dehorning Cattle. Use of the Separator. How to Take Care of Milk. The Aeration of Milk. Birth and after-birth........ 335 SHEEP HUSBANDRY. THE VARIOUS BREEDS. Descriptions of the Southdowns, the French Merinoes, the Cheviots, the American Merinoes, the Shropshires, the Black-Faced Scotch, the Oxford-Downs, the Hampshire-Downs, the Dorsets, the Lin- colns, the Leicesters, the Cotswolds, and the Cross-Bred Sheep . . 351 DISEASES. Constipation or Costiveness. Diarrhea. Dysentery. Inflammation of the Bowels. Hoven. Cold or Catarrh. Bronchitis. Inflam- mation of the Lungs. Influenza. Congestion of the Liver. Inflammation of the Liver. Poisoning by Sheep Laurel. Injur- ious Effects of Plaster and Lime. Inflammation of the Bladder. Inflammation of the Brain. Water on the Brain. Staggers. Contagious Foot-Rot. Common Foot-Rot or Gravel. The Sheep Gad-fly. The Sheep Louse. Scab Insect. Castration. Tape Worms. Spasmodic Colic. Constipation in Lambs. ........ 375 TABLE OF CONTENTS, 1X, SWINE HUSBANDRY. THE VARIOUS BREEDS. PAGE. The Berkshires. Their Characteristics. Quality of Meat. Matur- ity. The Suffolks. Their Characteristics. The Essexes. Their Characteristics. The Poland-Chinas. ‘Their Characteristics. ‘The Victorias. The Durocs. The Cheshires, or Jefferson County Swine. Jersey Reds. Chester Whites. Vorkshires....... 393 DISEASES AND GENERAL SUBJECTS. Mange. Recipe for Mange Ointment. Pigs Losing Their Tails. Inflammation of the Brain, or ‘‘Blind Staggers.’’ Diarrhea. Constipation. Lice. So-Called ‘‘Hog Cholera. Etc. Curing and Preserving. Sows Eating Their Pigs. Swine Breeding. .. 408 POULTRY DEPARTMENT. THE VARIOUS BREEDS. Special Advantages and Disadvantages of the Andalusians, Brah- mas, Cochins, Leghorns, Brown Leghorns, Game, White Ply- mouth Rocks, Dominiques, Langshans, Dorkings. Classification of the Characteristics of the Various Breeds. .......... 419 DISEASES. Causes. Crop-bound. Gapes. Roup. Common Cold or Catarrh. Bronchitis. Disorders of the Egg Organs. Cramp. Consump- tion. Diphtheria. Bumble-Foot. Apoplexy. Feather Hating. Cholera. Diarrhea. Etc., Etc. . 21... eee eee eee eee 432 GENERAL SUBJECTS. Suitable Place in Which to Keep Fowls. Building a Hen-house. Crowding of Fowls. ‘The Most Profitable Breed to Keep. Etc. 438 THE POTATO. ITS ENEMIES. Late Blight or Downy Mildew. Early Blight or Leaf-Spot Disease. Bacterial Blight. ‘Treatment of Diseases of the Potatoes. Po- tato Scab. ‘Treatment. Caution. Bordeaux Mixture. How to Prepare Carbonate of Copper. ...-- +e rete ee tees 443 X. TABLE OF CONTENTS. STANDARD RECEIPTS. PRACTICAL AND VALUABLE REMEDIES. PAGE, Liniments and Pain Killers. Ointments. Plasters and Blisters. Poultices. How to Produce Sweating. Emetics. Worm Rem- edies. Cough Remedies. Medicated Syrups. Medicinal Essen- ces. How to Measure Medicine. To Prevent Contagion and Blood Poisoning. Accidents and Emergencies. Paints and Var- nishes. Whitewash and Kalsomine. To Remove Stains and Grease Spots. Harness and Leather. Boots and Shoes. Clean- ing and Polishing. Paste, Glue, and Mucilage. Wagon ‘Tires and Fence Posts. Annoying Insects. Rats and Mice. Preserv- ing and Salting Meat. Fruit and Vegetables over Winter. Soap Making. Cider, Vinegar, and Wines. Miscellaneous. ...... 447 FRUIT CULTURE. INJURIOUS INSECTS AND GENERAL SUBJECTS. Budding. Grafting. Insects Injurious to Plants. The Codling Moth. Rose Beetle. Tent Caterpillar. Woolly Louse of the Ap- ple. Flat Headed and Round Headed Apple Tree Borer. Amer- ican Procris. Plum Curculio. Canker Worm. Various Other Insects. The Latest Insect Destroyers. Concise Directions for Spraying Cultivated Plants. Howandwhento Spray....... 531 _ LEGAL DEPARTMENT. LEGAL FACTS IMPORTANT TO ALL. Contracts. How to do Banking Business. Line Fences. Road Fences. Damage by Vicious Animals such as: Bulls, Horses, and Dogs. Damage to Property by Animals-at-Large. Rights of Drainage Surface Water. Line Trees... ........... 563 GLOSSARY. EXPLANATION OF SCIENTIFIC TERMS........ 607 PREPAwGE. HIS work has been prepared to meet the requirements of the busy men of our country, who have felt the need of a reliable systematic work which would aid them to properly. care for their domestic animals in health and sickness and give them practical and valuable knowledge on other general subj ects in a condensed form ready for reference or use. They have looked in vain for a simple and authentic treatise on the causes, symptoms, prevention, and cure of the diseases with which their domestic animals are so often afflicted. The works now on the market are for the use of practitioners of med- icine or are merely compilations by unscientific and unprofessional wri- ters, whose works are misleading and dangerous. Most of the diseases can be easily detected and properly treated by the intelligent farmer and stock-owner, and it is the aim of this work to assist them in their study and aid them in fully understanding the principle of the application of the various remedies and their effects. In order to prepare a work practical in all its details, much time has been spent conferring with the intelligent farmers and stock-raisers, in the various parts of our country, regarding the contents of a work to meet their approval. Every suggestion has been faithfully carried out and we hope that our work will meet with the hearty approval of the American public. This experience and observation among the practical and experienced stock men leads to the belief that a practical work of this kind will be a great benefit to every owner of domestic animals. Most of the special features of this work are the result of the recom- mendations of successful farmers and stock-raisers. To them we feel thankful for their generous aid. Care has been taken to have the language so simple as to be readily xii PREFACE. understood by even the humblest reader. . Scientific words are ex- plained, and the directions have been carefully and simply worded. The remedies are as far as possible those that can be easily procured, prepared, and administered. Ina work of this kind it has sometimes been necessary to use unfamiliar words, and phrases, so in order that all may be thoroughly understood, a glossary has been prepared in which the words not familiar in every day life have been thoroughly explained. In the veterinary department will be found the causes producing the diseases, so that knowing the cause the disease may be avoided. That, ‘‘An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,’’ has been kept in mind throughout the book. Great care has been taken to accurately explain THE SYMPTOMS so that the disease may be properly located, and there- fore know WHAT TO Do. Acting upon the belief that no one man, nor any half-dozen men know all there is worth knowing on a subject so extensive, we have freely drawn from such able authors and practitioners as Drs. Law, Salmon, Trumbour, Liautard, Kneidecker, and Dickson, whose ability and standing in their profession and their specialities cannot be doubted. Special charts or MANIKINS OF THE BODY OF THE HORSE AND COW have been prepared, also one of the KNEE, FETLOCK, ANKLE AND FOOT. By the study of these MANIKINS, which have never before been given to the public, an accurate knowledge of the construction of the bodies of the various animals, the location of the various organs and their functions can be accurately learned. A thorough study, and thereby an accurate knowledge of the construction, location, and uses of the various parts of the body will aid very much the ability to quickly judge the various diseases. In conclusion, let us hope that those who attentively study these pages and accurately follow out the suggestions and directions hereby given, may by their increased success, profit, and pleasure, feel warranted in giving the work their fullest endorsement. If this proves to be the case the labor has not been in vain. THE EDITOR. LEYS UN i NYS 5. POINTS OF THE HORSE. a. 8 1800 7B | i“ ANNG, WA OF MUSCLES. 6 t ae LED 896 Copreighted I. by A, Gatdenier. pp - nent Be sis i asec cere CIRCULATORY SYSTEM. & \ ge : Oe pede Reinhardt. 2 ser Ve at Rs ‘ “ eae Ware eee ty We : ay Se ia so ee eee Mi 3 2. Copyrighted 1896: E “Reinhardt. a sata. Pare TE aaa ee : by A, Gandentet sc: FUSS : CRED DE ad - ) DIGESTIVE ES Reuardt, Copyrighted 1896 N 6A Gardener. sey THIS MANIKIN Andrew A. Gardenier, Ph.D., _ EXPRESSLY FOR THE SUCCESSFUL STOCKMAN AND MANUAL OF HUSBANDRY. ‘The King-Richardson Co., SPRINGFIELD, MASS. Pee ee [a . Py -, MANTATALDL) FAG ial 9681 PaIYB Le silo) » Cg “ASHOH AHL 40 SLNIOd ‘S POINTS OF THE HORSE.) ) EXPLANATORY KEY MANIKIN OF THE HORSE. a HPSS PA So Pw oe Pw ib. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24, 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. Face. Nostril. Upper Lip. Lower Lip. Zygomatic ridge, Cheek. Hollow above the eye. Maxillary joint. Forelock. Nape of neck or poll. Crest or mane. Throat. Withers. Back. Loins. Side of chest. Breast. Floor of chest. Abdomen. Flanks. Prepuce or Sheath. Shoulder. Point of shoulder. Arm. Elbow. Fore-arm. Knee. . Cannon-bone or shank. Fetlock-joint. Pastern. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40, 41. 42. 43. Coronet. Heel. Hoof. Chestnut. Haunch. Croup. Hip-joint. Upper thigh. Stifle. Lower thigh. Hock. Chestnut. Root of the tail. Hair of the tail. THE MUSCLES. 1, Transverse muscle of nose, 2. Zygomatic. 3. Sphincter muscle of nose. 4, Elevator of upper lip. 5 Wing of nostril. 6. Muscle of eyelids. 7. Masticator muscle. 8. Depressor muscle. 9—10. Temporalis muscle. 11. Splenius. 12. Trapezium. 13, Serratus magnus. 14. Levator humeri. 15. Sterno-maxillaris. 16. Latissimus dorsi- 20 MANIKIN OF THE HORSE. 17. Antea spinatus. 18. Posteaspinatus. 19. Teres externus. 20. Triceps extensor brachii. 21. Latissimus dorsi. 23. Intercostal muscles. 23. Oblique abdominal external. 24, Coraco-brachialis. 25. Extensor metacarpi magnus. 26. Anterior extensor of phalanges. 27. Extensor suffraginis. 28. Anterior extensor of phalanges. 29. External flexor of metacarpus. 30. Extensor of phalanges. 31. Extensor suffraginis. 32. Flexor perforatus. 33. Flexor perforans. 34. Suspensory ligament of fetlock. 35. Internal flexor of metacarpus. 36. Ligament. 37. Rectus abdominis. 38. Gluteus maximus. 39. Superficials. 40. Muscle of fascia lata. 41, Biceps abductor femores. 42. Semitendinosis. 43, Semimembranosus. 44.—45. Biceps abductor femores. 46. Oblique flexor of phalanges. 47. Gastrocnemius. 48. Perforatus, superficial. 49. Flexor of perforatus. 50. Perforatus, deep. 51. Lateral extensor of phalanges. 52, Anterior extensor of phalanges. 53. Flexor of metatarsus. 54. Tendon Achilles. 55, Oblique tiexor of phalanges. 56. Muscles draw tail downward. CIRCULATORY SYSTEM. Main artery or aorta. Aorta, anterior portion. Aorta, posterior portion. Left coronary artery. BP whe 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 24, 25, 26. 27, 28, 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34, 36. 37, 38. 39. 40. Al. 42. 43. 44. 45. A6. 47. 48, 49. 50. 51. 52. Left sub-clavian artery. Superior cervical artery. Vertebral artery. Carotid artery, beginning of Thoracic artery, internal. Thoracic artery, external. Cervical artery, inferior. Carotid artery, right. Jugular vein. Carotid artery, bronchial branch. Thyro-laryngeal artery. Branches to larynx. Branches to esophagus. Auricular. Occipital. Retrograde, External maxillary. Maxillary artery, lower lip. Maxillary artery, upper lip. Artery of nose. Artery of face. Artery of angle of the eye. Temporal artery. Auricular artery. Axillary artery, muscular artery Axillary artery colateral of elbow Epicondylvid. Anterior radial artery. Posterior radial artery. Interosseous, or trunk artery. Digital artery. Radio-palmar. Latent artery of foot. Perpendicular artery of foot, Anterior artery, coronary cushion Posterior ‘ se te Circumflex artery of coronary. Preplantar artery. Plantar ungual artery. Semilunar anastomis. Intercostal arteries, fourteen pair Bronchial arteries to lungs. Esophageal. Diaphragmatic. Lumbar arteries. Abdominal arteries. 54. 55. 56. 57. 58. 63. 64. 65. 66. 67. 68. 69. 70. 71. 72. 73. 74. 75. 76. 78. 79. 80. 81. 82. 83. 84, 85. 86. 87. 88. 89. 90. 91. 92. 93. 94, 95. 96. 97. 98. 99. MANIKIN OF THE HORSE. 21 Tlio cecal. Gastric artery. Splenic artery. Mesenteric, anterior. Arteries of small intestines. Branches to small intestines. Anterior branch of posterior mes- enteric. Posterior branch of posterior mes- enteric. Arteries of the kidneys. Artery of posterior bowels. Branch of posterior mesenteric. Spermatic artery. Tliac artery. Pelvic artery. Coccygeal, inferior. Caudal arteries. Gluteal arteries. Tlio-lumbar artery. Pudic, external artery. Obturator. Pudic, internal artery. Abdominal aorta, terminal portion Tliac artery, external. Testicular small, (in females uter- ine anterior). Pudic external, (in females mam- mary uterine artery). Abdominal, posterior. Femoral or crural. Femoris profunda artery. Saphena artery. Popliteal artery. Tibial artery, anterior. Tibial artery, posterior. Tibial recurrent artery. Plantar artery. Pedal artery. Digital arteries. Pulmonary artery. Vena cava, anterior. Jugular vein. Dorsal vein. Vena azygos. Esophageal. 100. Bronchia. 101. Vena cava, posterior. 102. Iliac veins. 103. Hepatic veins. 104. Portal vein circulation. 105. Portal vein. 106. Circulation of hoof. THE BONES. 1. 1 Prime to 18 prime, ribs, 1. Upper jaw bone. 2. Lower maxillary. 3. Occipital. 4. Parietal. 5. Frontal. 6. Upper tusk found only in mae: 7. Superior maxillary. 8. Upper molars. 11. Nasal bone. 12. Lachrymal. 13. Lower tusk. 14. Zygomatic. 15. Lower molars. 18. Atlas. 18—24. Cervical vertebra, 25—43. Dorsal vertebra. 48. Lumbar. 49—54, Sacrum. 54—73. Cocygeal vertebra. 74, Sternum. 76. Illium. 77. Os magnum. 78. Elbow joint. 79. Elbow joint. 80. Radius. 81. Trapezium, 82. Cuneiform bone. 83. Lunar bone, 84. Os magnum. 85. Unciform. 86. Metatarsal. 88, Sesamoid. 89. Os suffraginis. 90. Os Corono. 91. Coffin bone or Os pedis. 22 92, 94, 96. 98. 99. 100. 102, 103. 104. 105. 106. 107. 108. 109. “10. MANIKIN OF THE HORSE. Scapula. 93. Head of Femur. Pelvis. 95. Pubis. Femurs, 97. Scaphoid bone. Tibula Tibia. Calcis. Large scaphoid bone. Small scaphoid bone. Cuneiform. Splint bone. Metatarsal. Sesamoid bone. Os suffraginis or large pastern. Os corona or small pastern. Coffin bone or Os pedis. DIGESTIVE ORGANS. BPH e RSS EIS kN Pe DNR rE HEP HH a a Cerebrum. Cerebellum, Medulla oblongata. Spinal cord. Section of cervical vertebra. Section of dorsal veterbra. Section of sacral vertebra. Coceygeal vertebra. Ligamentum nuche. Turbinated bones. Pharynx. Entrance to larynx. Thyroid gland. Bronchi and their division. Front lobe of lung. Palate with ridges. Molars. Tongue. Thoracic cavity. Tendinous portion of diaphragm. Muscular portion of diaphragm. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26., 27, 28. 29. 30. 31. . 32. 33. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40, 41. 42. 43. 44, 45. 46. 47. 48. 49, 50. 51. 62. 53. 54, 53. 54. 55. 56. 57. Left ventricle. Right ventricle. Pulmonary artery. Common aorta. Right auricle. Right ventricle, interior. Left auricle, interior. Tendine chorde of tricuspid valves Left auriculo-ventricular valves. Right auriculo-ventricular valves. Tending chorde of auriculo-ven- tricular valves. Opening of pulmonary vein into left auricle. Biliary duct. Hepatic vein. Posterior vena cava. Duodenum. Tleumn. Lower portion cf colon. Upper portion of colon. Pelvic portion of colon. Upper portion of colon, Pelvic portion of colon. Pelvic portion of rectum. Anus. Left ureter. Right ureter. Scrotum. Spermatic cord. Location of penis. Location of vagina. Abdominal cavity, Pelvic cavity. On flap. Vagina. Young in position vefore birtm Unbilical cord. Walls of uterus. Chorion. THE HORSE. CHAPTER I. Management and Care in Sickness. INTELLIGENCE REQUIRED, OUR DOMESTIC ANIMALS, FIRS’ REQUISITES, BOX STALL, GOOD BED, CLOTHING, REMOVE SHOES, FOOD, BRAN MASH, LINSEED MASH, BREAD MASH, FRESH WATER IMPORTANT, HAND RUBBING, COLD WATER BATHING OF THE LEGS, STEAMING, HOW TO MAKE POULTICES, BLISTERS, ANTISEPTICS, DEODORIZERS, HOT WATER BATHING, SLINGS, BANDAGES, RAREY’S SYSTEM OF THROWING OR CASTING, HOW TO GIVE MEDICINE, ELECTUARIES, INJECTIONS, GIVING A BALL, MAKING A BALL, GIVING LIQUIDS, GENERAL ADVICE. KEEPER of animals in a menagerie is required to study the habits of the animals and the conditions under which they live and thrive in their native wilds, before he is allowed to have full control of their feeding and care. These conditions must be du- plicated as far as practical. ‘The Polar bear must be supplied with ice, and food as nearly like that which he would feed upon, if he should be returned to his native land, as possible. But how many of our stock owners place the care of valuable animals in the hands of the entirely ignorant. It requires an intelligence far superior to that which is usual- ly found in our ordinary stable-hand, to properly care for our domestic: animals. Our Domestic Animals have for so many generations been under conditions entirely contrary to their nature, that even they have changed somewhat in their habits and requirements. Our climate is far different from that in which they are found in their native state. The use to which man has put the noble horse is to blame for most of his diseases. In his native state the diseases which we find so troublesome are entirely unknown. ‘The sooner sickness is recognized and the proper remedies used, the sooner the animal will be restored to health. But to 24 THE HORSE. recognize disease it is obviously necessary to know the animal when well. If nothing is known regarding the natural pulse, how can one expect to know whether the heart beats regularly and natural or not. Study the condition of the animal in health as to pulse, number of res- pirations, color and quantity of the excretions, and remember if these change there has come a time to be specially observant of the actions of the animal, so as to determine the cause. Should these changes be the result of disease, determine its nature and be governed accordingly. A quick recognition of an ailment and promptness in treatment will the sooner restore health and less will be the liability of death and loss. First Requisites. Provide the animal with plenty of pure, fresh air, always avoiding draughts. Make the stall as comfortable as possible; cool in summer and warm in winter. Keep the temperature as nearly 55° to 60° as possible. See that the drainage is good, and the place dry. Box Stall. A box stall not less than ten feet square is best, and should be provided with a low half-door over which the animal may droop his head if so inclined. Windows in the stall should be darkened when animals have nervous diseases or eye troubles. Good Bed. Provide plenty of fresh, clean straw or saw-dust. Some practical men prefer to have a bed made of old straw, which has been carefully collected and dried. The reason for this is, that it makes a softer and yet a more compact bed, and there are no stiff ends of new straw to annoy and irritate the sick animal. Clothing. Woolen blankets in winter and linen sheets in summer should always be used. Have them loosely fastened on, if a surcingle is used, do not have it tight. Air the clothing everyday, but cover the animal with some other clothing during the airing. Remove Shoes. If a horse is liable to be sick for any length of time, or is seriously ill remove all the shoes as it will be much more com- fortable for the auimal. Food. Care and skill are needed in preparing the food, regulating the diet, and tempting the appetite of the sick. The food should be simple, nutritious, and easy of digestion. Change food often and give it in small quantities frequently. Food is rendered more easily digest- ible by being cooked. Give some green food whenever it can be pro- cured. Scald all grains such as corn, oats, barley, bran and middlings, by pouring on boiling water. Then cover and allow to steam till cold, then feed. It is always best to have the grain ground, it being more easily digested. MANAGEMENT AND CARE. 25 Mashes. What are commonly known as MASHES are very useful in feeding sick horses and cattle, but they should be fed in small quantities and carefully prepared. Feed a mtash from the tub in which it is mixed, because if placed in the manger the part remaining behind often sours, and renders all that is put in the manger thereafter unfit to be used. Bran Mash. Mix two quarts of bran with enough boiling water to cover, add salt, stir thoroughly and allow to cool. Linseed Mash. Boil a half pound of unground flaxseed in two quarts of water until it is reduced to about three pints. Pour this over bran instead of water and mix. Bread Mash. Soak a loaf of bread, broken into pieces, in fresh milk until it is soft and can be made fine; stir and mix. Fresh Water. Water should always be within reach of the ani- mal, especially if there is any fever. A small quantity of powdered alum added to a pint of water will purify it by precipitating the impurities. Some animals seem to be given to scouring, to such, water should be given in small quantities, and frequent; or what is a better plan leave water always before such animals. Animals watered at inter- vals drink much more than when always supplied. A smaller quan- tity of water taken into the system lessens the secretions of the internal organs and decreases the tendency to scour. Hand-Rubbing. Rubbing the legs is very useful to relieve any fullness caused by overwork or strain, or the lack of exercise. The friction excites the blood-vessels and absorbents to greater action. Gentle hand rubbing of the skin and sponging of the nostrils with weak vinegar and water is many times very refreshing to the sick. Cleanliness. A stall that has been occupied by a sick animal should be thoroughly cleaned, washed with a hot antiseptic solution, and whitewashed before another animal is allowed to occupy it. The sheath should always be carefully cleaned at the beginning of any serious sick- ness, and occasionally thereafter if the trouble lasts any length of time. Cold Water Bathing of the Legs. Cold water bathing is of much benefit in many cases. The cold reduces inflammation and tends to brace up weakened structures. After each cold bath the parts should be dried and bandaged. Cold applications should not be repeated ottener than three times a day. Steaming. Take a clean grain bag not too large around at the 26 THE HORSE. opening and fasten two strings, one on each side near the top, so that it can be fastened to the animal’s head after its nose is placed in the bag. In the bottom of the bag make some holes, fill the bag partly full of clean hay. Upon this pour some boiling water, and as soon as the hay is saturated put the animal’s nose in the bag and fasten in place over the animal’s head. As soon as the steam stops rising, more boiling water should be added till the steaming has lasted an hour. Poultices. While these can be easily applied to man and easily fastened in place, it is much more difficult todo so in the case of the horse or cattle. A poultice to be of any good must remain moist, and therefore it has to be made large and thick. Again the poultice must be fastened on, but care must be taken that it is not so tightly tied as tostop the circulation of the blood. Usea strip of cloth two or three inches wide to tie on the poultice instead of strings. In order to prevent the substance from which the poultice is made, from sticking to the hair, they should be placed in a bag made of strong thin material. Another way is to spread the poultice on a thick piece of cloth and then cover the part to be placed to the skin with two thick- nesses of mosquito netting. Various irritants, disinfectants, anodynes, etc., may be mixed with the poultice or spread upon the surface. How to Make a Poultice. A poultice to be used simply for warmth is best made of bran mixed with hot water. One intended for softening or ‘‘bringing to a head’’ should be of equal parts of moist bran, flax-seed meal and olive oil. A very good one may be made of turnips or carrots mixed with bran. For asore that does not seem to do well a flax-seed poultice is best. Ifthe sore is painful, tincture of opium may be poured over the surface of the poultice. In inflammation of the foot, to soften the horn, saturate oakum with heavy crude petro- leum and apply to sole and wall of the hoof. Blisters. A mark or scar the result of a blister is needless, if the blister is properly applied and cared for after removal. The part to be blistered should have the hair closely clipped or shaved off. As soon as the blister has sufficiently drawn remove it, wash the sore and rub over the place some sweet oil. Be careful not to break or remove the loose skin, let it come off of itself. Ifthe only purpose of the application is to produce simple irritation, remove the irritant as soon as sufficient redness appears and after washing apply the oil. Antiseptics. In cases of wounds it is often the case to find that poisonous germs existing in the air are absorbed, and the wound does MANAGEMENT AND CARE. 27 not heal properly because of the germs producing putrefaction in the injured tissue. Blood-poisoning may follow the absorption of these mi- croscopic organisms. Certain agents have the power of destroying these poisonous germs and are known as AN'TISEPTICS. How to Use Antiseptics. Some of the most valuable antisep- tics are among the DEADLIEST POISONS, even in very smu quantities. They should always be used, but with care. CoRROSIVE-SUBLIMATE (bichloride of mercury) is the most valuable known. It isin the form of small white granules, and is very poisonous. It is used by dissolving three grains ina pint of hot water. This solution is used in washing and cleansing the wound. Carbolic acid, salicylic acid, blue vitriol, iodo- form, sugar, and alum, are all among the antiseptics. Disinfectants are agents which have the power of destroying or neutralizing infectious matter which is the product arising from an ani- mal having a contagious disease, and a variety of other sources, as sew- ers, cess-pools, decaying matter, etc. Disinfectants are used in solid forms or in solution. A Few Disinfectants. Fresh air and cleanliness are the first. To aid these we have: BRIMSTONE (roll sulphur) for fumigation; CopPERAS, (sulphate of iron) one and one half pounds dissolved in a gallon of water, to be used in cess-pools, sewers, and to be thrown over any infected matter; CoMMON SALT and SULPHATE oF ZINC, four ounces of each to a gal- lon of water, is valuable to wash all blankets that have been used on a sick animal; CoORROSIVE-SUBLIMATE, sixteen grains to a quart of water, is used to mix with the nasal discharges in case of glanders. The amount should equal the amount of discharge. Deodorizers. There are very offensive odors around many a stable and out-house. There are substances which are capable of destroy- ing or masking these odors and are known as deodorizers. They may or may not have the power of destroying contagious matter. The simple deodorizers are chloride of zinc and chloride of lime. Hot Water Bathing. To be useful, hot water applications should be continued for two hours at a time. ‘The water not warmer than 105° or hardly as hot as the hand will bear. Do not let the water get cool, but keep up the temperature by adding hot water. The water should not be applied directly to the part affected but applied by a swab or 28 THE HORSE. sponge a little above the affected parts. After the parts are sufficiently bathed, cover them with cloths, woolen being by far the best If you have not the time to bathe properly with hot water, wrap the parts in flannel and wet with hot water. Then be sure to cover well with thick woolen covering over which put rubber cloth to retain the heat. Some pieces of an old rubber coat or gossamer will be found useful. Slings. Occasionally it is necessary to put an animal in a sling. The animal seems to dread to lie down, and remains standing until al- most exhausted, which retards the cure. To prepare a sling therefore is sometimes necessary. ‘Take sail-cloth or some other very strong cloth, a piece long enough to reach around the body of the animal, and wide enough to reach from the front legs to the back of the sheath. Prepare two stout sticks two feet longer than the cloth is wide and have them round. About the sticks wind the cloth, one stick at each end and with the cloth, wound around twice; nail very strong; to each stick fasten a a strong rope. ‘This rope should be fastened to each end of the stick which extends beyond the cloth. Now fasten to each rope the block aud tackle which have previously been fastened to stout floor timbers overhead and then attaching the same the animal may be raised high enough to REST. Never allow a horse to hang in slings, because press- ure on the chest walls will cause suffocation. Bandages. ‘To hold poultices and blisters in place bandages are often necessary. ‘They are not easily held in position but with a small amount of ordinary calculation and plenty of bandages a poultice or blis- ter can be held in any position on the animal. Rarey’s System of Throwing or Casting. Occasionally a horse having never been treated to any unusual handling, is very difficult to manage. Medicines have to be given and operations performed making it often necessary to resort to throwing or casting the horse. The direc- tions given by the veteran horse trainer Rarey have never been improved upon so we give them in full. “Everything that we want to teach the horse must be commenced in such way as to give him an idea of what you want him to do, and. then be repeated till he learns it perfectly. ‘To make a horse lie down, bend his left fore-leg and slip a loop over it, so that he cannot get it down. Then put a surcingle around his body, and fasten one end of a long strap around the other foreleg just above the head. Place the other end under the surcingle, so as to to keep the strap in the right direction; take a short hold of it with your right hand; stand on the left side of MANAGEMENT AND CARE. 29 the horse; grasp the bit in your left hand, pull steadily on your strap with the right; bear against his shoulder till you cause him to move. As soon as he lifts his weight, your pulling will raise the other foot, and he will have to come to his knees. Keep the strap tight in your hand, so that he cannot straighten his leg if he rises up. Hold him in his po- sition, and turn his head toward you; bear against his side with your shoulder, not hard, but with a steady, equal pressure and in about ten minutes he will lie down. As soon as he lies down, he will be complete- ly conquered and you can handle him as you please. Take off the straps and straighten out his legs; rub him lightly about the face and legs with your hand the way the hair lies; handle all his legs; and after he has lain ten or twenty minutes let him get up again. After resting him a short time, make him lie down as before. Repeat the operation three or four times, which will be sufficient for one lesson. Give him two lessons a day; and after you have given him four lessons, he will lie down by taking hold of one foot. As soon as he is broken to lie down in this way, tap him on the opposite leg with a stick when you take hold of his foot, and in a few days he will lie down from the mere mo- tion of the stick. In practicing the foregoing method upon a colt, he should be first ac- customed to be handled, and taught to be led easily. In approaching a spiteful or vicious horse, you had better make your advances with a half open door between you and him ; gradually make his acquaintance and teach him that you do not care for his open mouth; but a regular biter must be gagged with a wooden bit made for the purpose, so large that he cannot close his mouth. Of course there is no difficulty in handling the leg of a quiet horse or colt, and by constantly working from the neck down to the fetlock, you may do as you please. But many horses, and even colts, have a most dangerous trick of striking out with their fore-legs. There is no better protection against this than a cart wheel. The wheel may either be used loose, or the animal may be led to a cart loaded with hay, when the horse-tamer can work under the cart through one of the wheels, while the colt is nibbling the load. Having, then, so far soothed a colt that he will permit you to take up his leg without resistance, take a strap, pass the tongue through the loop under the buckle so as to form a noose, slip it over the near fore- leg and draw it close up to the pastern-joint, and then with leg doubled upon itself, put strap around the leg and fasten the leg up. But 30 THE HORSE. you must not be rash in lifting the leg, and employ but little. force in doing so. It is better to wait until he lifts it willingly by the use of gentle means. Do not get out of temper if you have to make a dozen ineffectual attempts to raise it. The near fore-leg being se- curely strapped, and the horse, secured from biting, if necessary, with the wooden bit, you willthen make him hop about, as before stated. This he will learn to do easily. The trainer, must however, take care to keep behind his horse’s shoulder and walk in a circle, or he will be like- ly to be struck by the animal’s head or strapped up leg. A horse can hop on three legs for two or three miles, if you give him his own time, and no plan has ever been tried that has been equal to this for curing a balky horse. After you have tired him out pretty well in this manner, you proceed to make him lie down, which process re- quires considerable patience and skill. For this purpose take a longer strap, aud making a loop with it put it round the off fore-leg. With a very quiet horse this can be easily done; with a wild or vicious horse you may have to make him step into it ; at any rate, when once the off- fore-leg is caught in the noose it must be drawn tight round the pas- tern-joint. Then put a stout glove on your right hand, pass the strap through the belly part of the surcingle, take a firm hold of it with your gloved right hand, standing close to the horse behind his shoulders, and with your left hand take hold of the near rein; by pulling the horse gently to the near side he will be almost sure to hop; if he will not, he must be led. The moment he lifts up his left off fore-foot, you must draw up the strap tightly and steadily. The horse will then go down on his knees, because if you hold the strap tight he will not be able to stretch out his feet again. As soon as a horse recovers from his as- tonishment at being brought to his knees, he begins to resist ; that is he rears up on his hind legs, and springs about in a manner that will some- times alarm the trainer. During these struggles you must not try your strength against the horse's strength, but merely follow him about, hold- ing the strap just tight enough to prevent him from putting out his fore- leg. As long as you keep CLOSE TO HIM, and BEHIND HIS SHOULDERS, you are in very little danger. The bridle in the left hand must be used like steering lines, by pulling to the right or left as occasion requires ; the horse, turning on his hind legs, may be fatigued by being forced to walk backwards. The strap passing through the surcingle keeps, or ought to keep, the trainer in his right place ; he is not to pull or in any- way fatigue himself any more than he can help, but, standing upright, MANAGEMENT AND CARE. 31 simply follow the horse about, guiding him with the bridle so he will not precipitate himself against the side of the stable or room in which you are exercising him. When held and guided properly, he will soon sink down. Corn-fed horses will hold out longer than grass-fed ones, and the most energetic horse will not struggle more than ten or fifteen minutes. Usually at the end of eight minutes violent struggling, the animal sinks forward on his knees, sweating profusely, with heaving flanks and shak- ing tail. If he resists, he may be forced by the bit to walk backwards and forwards, but this is generally unnecessary, as by pushing gently at his shoulder or by pulling steadily the off-rein, you can get him to fall, in the one case on the near side, in the other on the off-side; but this assist- ance should be.so slight that the horse will not attempt to resist it. The horse will often make a final spring when you think he is quite beaten ; but at length he slides over, and lies down, panting and ex- hausted, on his side. If he is a pretty spirited animal take advantage at the moment to tie up the off fore-leg to the surcingle, as securely as the other, in a slip-loop knot. Now let your horse recover his wind, and then encourage him to make a second fight. It will often be more stubborn than the first. The object of this tying-up process is that he shail thoroughly exhaust without hurting himself, and that he shall come to the conclusion that it is you who, by your superior strength have conquered him, and that you are always able to conquer him. Under the old rough ridin r system, the most vicious horses were oc- casionally conquered by daring men with firm seats and strong arms, who rode and flogged them into subjection; but these conquests were temporary, and usually personal; with every stranger the animal would begin his game again. One advantage of this system is, that the horse is allowed to exhaust himself under circumstances that render it impossible for him to strug- gle long enough to do himself any harm. It has been suggested that a blood vessel would likely be broken or apoplexy produced by the exer- tion of leaping from the hind legs; but up to the present time no acci- dent of any kind has been reported. Treatment of the Horse After He is Down. If the horse has fought hard in going down, he will then lie perfectly still, and you can gentle him, scrape the sweat off, and rub him down, smoothing the hair of his legs, and drawing the fore one straight out. In this position you have the opportunity of making him perfectly familiar with you, 32 THE HORSE. and the more you fondle him and reconcile him to you the better. His head, tail, and legs should now be handled with freedom, caressing and talking to him all the while. If he has hitherto resisted shoeing, hand- le all his legs with a view to accomplish it, and if he attempts to resist, continue till you subdue him, speaking to him with a voice of authority. If he is a bad kicker you may be obliged to confine his fore-legs; and with them tied, you may spend an hour in handling his legs, tapping the hoofs with your hammer—all this to be done in a firm, measured. soothing manner; only now and then if he resists, cry as you paralyze him with the ropes, Whoa, in a determined manner. It is by this con- tinued soothing and handling that you establish confidence between you and the horse. After patting him as much as you deem needful, say for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, you may encourage him to rise. Some horses will require a good deal of helping, and it may be necessary to draw out their fore-legs before them. The handling of colts in this condition, particularly requires caution. A colt tormented by flies will kick forward nearly up to the fore-legs. If a horse, unstrapped, at- tempts to rise, you may easily stop him by taking hold of a fore-leg and doubling it back to the strapped position. If by chance he should be too quick, don’t resist, for it is an essential principle of this system nev- er to enter into a contest with a horse unless you are certain to be victo- rious. In all these operations you must be calm, and never in a hurry, or in a passion.”’ HOW TO GIVE MEDICINE. Electuaries. A medical compound of powders, or other ingredients, mixed with honey, or syrup, and made a little thicker than honey, is called an electuary. ‘These are easily given by rubbing on the tongue or teeth, from which the animal at once licks them, and swallows them with the saliva. When necesssary to give only a very small quantity of medicine it may be dropped or poured upon the tongue. Injections. Several instuments have been made with the false no- tion that it is best to force liquids into the intestines of the animal. Ex- perience has shown that the best instrument to be used for this purpose is a Gamgee’s funnel. It isa straight tin tube about a foot long, ta- pered and rounded off at the smaller end, bent at the opposite end at right angles. This end supports a funnel about a half dozen inches deep and as many across. Always thoroughly oil before using, and af- MANAGEMENT AND CARE, 33 ter entering the instrument pour the liquid into the funnel. The liquid from the funnel will by the force from its own weight gradually find its way into the rectum. Every owner of horses and cattle should provide himself with such an instrument. Of course in case such an instrument is not at hand, the old way may be resorted to, namely; the bladder tied to a hollow elder stick. Giving a Bali. ‘To one who has never given a ball, a few directions may not be amiss. ‘The method described by Gamgee is easily learned by following his directions, as follows: First, ‘‘turn the animal from the manger with a halter on, held by an assistant. Attempting to give a ball to a horse tied up in a stall has before this proved a fatal experi- ment to the operator. Second; it is extremely dangerous to resort to twitching with awkward horses, as our power in keeping the mouth open depends on the moderate stretch on the tongue, which is not felt or cared for by a horse severely punished by atwitch on his ear. Third; stand on the off side of the horse’s head, with a cloth in the left hand to wipe the mouth, should there be, as in some cases an excess of saliva to interfere with holding the tongue; the left hand is placed on the horse’s crest, while the right is put into the angle of the mouth, the tongue is seized gently, wiped if necessary, grasped with the left hand and drawn downwards. Some compress the tongue against the left side of the lower jaw, bringing it between the molar (back) teeth on that side. Others drag the tongue out of the mouth, and hold it firmly. It is very important to hold it so that, in any movement the horse may take, there is a point of support for the hand against the lower jaw. Pulling on the tongue may give unnecessary pain, make a horse rest- less, and in tossing his head about, the tongue may be severely lacer- ated. Fourth; the ball, which has been ready all the time in the waist- coat pocket, or grasped by the lips of the operator, is seized, and avoid- ing unnecessary hustle and hurry, it is carried up the middle of the mouth and dropped on the back of the tongue; at the same instant the tongue is quietly let loose, and as the horse draws it back, the ball is held in the back part of the mouth, from which it can- not come except by a fit of coughing; as soon as the hands are with- drawn, the mouth is kept closed, and the left side of the neck watched to see the ball pass down the cesophagus; this may occur before looking round to the neck, so that, after waiting a little, if the ball is not seen the horse should be caused to drink a little water. It is well to always give a drink after giving a ball, as itis disagreeable to leave an animal, 34 THE HORSE. and when your back is turned to have the ball coughed into the manger. In morbid conditions of the system, and in the unnatural manner in which the ball is given, the passages are not well moistened and lubii- cated, and it may be some time before the ball enters the stomach through the cardiac orifice.”’ . Making a Ball. The old way of making a ball is to mix the ingre- dients with a little molasses, honey or syrup so as to form a stiff dough, adding if necessary, enough ground flax seed or bran to give it the re- quired size, which is about that of a man’s thumb. ‘There are now to be had in nearly every drug-store gelatine capsules, which are much nicer in every way. ‘Those having many horses to care for, would do well to keep a supply on hand. Giving Liquids. In the absence of a drenching horn use a soda- bottle. The following rules if followed will be found to be practical. ‘First, hold the horse’s head up at a moderate height, so that the line of the face is horizontal. Second, allow sufficient movements of lips, tongue, cheeks, and jaws, so as not to interfere with the first act of swallowing. To draw the tongue forcibly outward is very injurious, for if the tongue is stretched it does not aid in pressing back the fluid which gravitates as the tongue is pulled upon, and the larnyx and phar- nyx advance, the animal may be choked. ‘Third; if the animal makes an effort to cough, rather lose the draught than risk the danger of suf- focation, which so readily occurs if fluid is suddenly thrown over the tongue. Fourth; entice efforts of swallowing should the horse obsti- nately hold the liquid in his mouth. This is done by rubbing the side of the neck, along the cesophagus. Holding the Horse. The following from F. O. Kirby gives the best known methods: ‘The methods of holding horses during the giving of liquids are various, but the most important ones are three. In the first place, by ropes and pulleys a horse’s head is pulled up from a beam or other high object in a stable or shed. This is very objectionable, especially in a vicious horse; and we have never found it to answer better than the method of introducing a rope-noose over the upper jaw. This noose is fastened to a stick, or slipped over a stable-fork prong, and a man can then hold up the head of the heaviest horse and follow him in his movements. It requires management. I do not like the fork, as it is a dangerous instrument, and prefer an ordinary twitch. In the third method the man holds the head up and gives the medicine. It is the most simple and useful method. It only requires one person, whe MANAGEMENT AND CARE. 35 holds the tongue, places his thumb round the lower jaw, and with his fingers causes the horse to open his mouth whilst the draught is poured out of the horn or bottle with the right hand.”’ General Advice. An owner of stock should keep on hand some of the more common, and useful drugs so as to be ready for emergencies, He should also be provided with a few of the most useful surgical instru- ments. Do not wait till some animal is sick before studying the symp- toms of the various diseases. Assoon as you learn that an animal in tne neighborhood is sick, go and look at it. It is not necessary for you to offer any advice in the matter, but by observation and reading you will soon be able to determine the disease as soon as seen. If you know the disease for a certainty and also the remedy, there is no reason why ~ith careful nursing you cannot cure it, if capable of being cured, as well as any one. A veterinarian has to study and observe for three years before he is considered capable to recognize all the various dis- eases; so do not be discouraged, if you have to spend some time before you feel sure as to the trouble. Each effort will make you more confi- dent and proficient. Study the pulse of the various anima‘s and count the respirations. Remember it is only by careful study that you can succeed. See 2 2B) Feng CHAPTER 11. Feeding and Care. GENERAL REQUISITES, WATERING HORSES WHEN WARM, QUANTITY OF WATER REQUIRED, KINDS OF FOOD, DIGESTION OF TWO KINDS, FEED OATS AFTER HAY, COMMON ERROR, HORSE HAS A SMALI, STOMACH, TEN POUNDS OF HAY A DAY, STRAW, CHAFF, GRAINS, WHEAT, RYE, BRAN, CORN, LINSEED, POTATOES, BEETS, CARROTS, GRASSES. EEDING and care of an animal have much to do with its gen- eral health. Animals not at hard work and running in well wat- ered pastures, are seldom ill, but horses confined in stables and fed and watered, and worked according to the notions of the care- taker, are very liable to diseases of various kinds. As much pains should be taken to feed, water, and care for the animal properly, in health as would be taken to cure it, if sick. Watering Horses When Warm. There is a common notion among users of horses, that if a horse is warm he should not be allowed to drink, many claiming that the ‘‘first swallow’’ of water either ‘‘foun- ders’ the animal or produces colic. This is not true. It does not mat- ter how much heated the horse may be, it is always safe to give him a half-dozen swallows of water. If this water is given just before being put in the stable, the animal should be immediately supplied witha few pounds c “hay, and should not be fed grain until the animal has rested about an hour. ‘The danger is not in the ‘‘first swallow’’ but is always due to the large quantity which the animal will take when warm, if al- lowed to drink without restraint. Over one-half of the digestive dis- orders are undoubtedly caused by improper feeding and watering, hence one can readily see the importance of a proper understanding of these subjects. Quantity of Water Required. When horses can get water when- near they wish it, they never drink enough at one time to injure them. FEEDING AND CARE. 37 Where the horse is dependent upon his attendant for water, he common- ly requires about eight gallons a day. ‘This will vary with the class of food, if green food is used a portion of this is supplied and a less quantity needed than when fed on dry hay and grain. The horse should be watered at least three times a day when idle and oftener when at work. Remember always to water before feeding. Kinds of Food. Since the horse is fed in this country on hay, grass, oats, corn, wheat, rye, and roots one might conclude that the horse could not be fed on any other kind of food ‘The following from Loudon’s Encyclopedia is of interest : ‘In some barren countries horses are forced to live on dried fish, and even on vegetable molds; in Arabia, on milk, flesh-balls, eggs, and broth. In India horses are variously fed. The native grasses are judged very nutritious. Few, perhaps no oats are grown; barley is rare and not often fed to horses. In Bengal a plant, something like the tare, is used. On the western side of India a sort of pigeon-pea forms the ordi- nary food, with grass while in season, and hay all the year around. In the West Indies maize, guinea corn, sugar-corn-tops, and sometimes molasses, are given. In the Mahratta country salt, pepper, and other spices are made into balls, with flour and butter, and these are sup- posed to produce a spirited animal and give it a fine coat. Broth made from sheep’s head is sometimes given.”’ Digestions of Two Kinds. In the horse as well as in man di- gestion takes place in the stomach and intestines. The food after pass- ing into the stomach undergoes a change before passing out to the small intestines where the process of digestion is finished. The change taking place in the stomach is called, stomach digestion, and that in the in- testines, intestinal digestion. Feed Oats After Hay and Straw. The time required for stomach digestion varies with the different foods. Hay and straw are digested and pass out of the stomach more rapidly than oats or other grain. If oats are fed first, and are followed by hay, the hay soon pass- ing onward into the intestines will carry along with it oats that are not yet prepared for intestinal digestion thus causing a loss of food. An- other reason for feeding hay first, (more particularly if the horse is very hungry or tired from over work) is that it takes more time to masticate the hay and the horse cannot bolt it down as it would grains. Water should not be given soon after feeding, as it washes the food from the stomach before it has had time for proper stomach digestion, 38 THE HORSE. Common Error of Feeding. An error that produces many dis- orders of the digestive system, is TO FEED TOO SOON AFTER A HARD DAY’s worK. A very small quantity of hay may be given but grain should not be fed within less than an hour. Horse has a Small Stomach. An examination of the ANA- TOMICAL MANIKIN OF THE HORSE as found in the beginning of this book, shows that the horse has a very small stomach iu pro- portion to his size. This proves to us that the horse should be fed in small quantities and often. ‘The disproportion between the size of the stomach and the amount of water usually given at one time shows plain- ly that the horse should always be watered before feeding. Feed at least three times a day, and not wholly on concentrated food. Bulky food must be given to detain the food in its passage through the small intestines, so that it can be thoroughly digested and the nutriment ab- sorbed. Ten Pounds of Hay a Day. A horse that is fed twelve quarts of oats a day, or other grain in proportion, should be allowed ten to twelve pounds of good timothy hay a day. Do not keep horses that are at light work, entirely on hay, if you do they will soon become ‘‘pot-bellied,’’ fall off in flesh, and will not thrive. Even colts unless fed with some grain, grow up long, lean, ana gawky, and never make as good horses as those accustomed to grain. Hay ‘The best hay for horses is timothy. Hay from six months to a yea: and a half old is best. It should be of a greenish color, crisp, clean and fresh. New hay is hard to digest, produces ‘‘slobbering’’ and sometimes diarrhea. Mow-burnt hay produces disorders of the kidneys and bowels. Musty or moldy hay has often been said to pro- duce that peculiar disease variously known as cerebro-spinal-meningitis, putrid sore throat, or choking distemper. Straw. The straws are not extensively fed in this country. and when used at all they should be cut and mixed with hay, and ground or crushed grains. Wheat, rye, and oat straw are the ones most used, and of these oat straw is the most easily digested and contains the most nourishment. Pea and bean straw are occasionaily fed to horses, the pea being preferable according to most writers. Chaff. Wheat and rye chaff should NEVER be used as a food for horses. The beards frequently become !odged in the mouth or throat and are productive of more or iess serious trouble. In the stomach and intestines they often serve as the nucleus of the ‘‘soft concretions’’ FEEDING AND CARE. 39 which are to be described when treating of obstructions of the digestive tract. Oat chaff, if fed in quantities and mixed with cut hay or corn- fodder, is very much relished by horses. It is not to be given in large quantities, as a troublesome and sometimes fatal diarrhea follows the practice of allowing horses or cattle free access to a pile of oat chaff. Grains. Oats takes precedence of all grains asa food for horses, as the ingredients neccessary for the complete nutrition of the body exist in them in the best proportions, Oats are besides more easily digested and a larger proportion absorbed and converted into the various tissues of the body. Care must be taken in selecting oats. According to Stewart the best oats are one year old, plump, short, hard, clean, bright, and sweet. New oats are indigestible. Kuiln-dried oats are to be re- fused as a rule, for even though originally good this drying process in- jures them. Oats that have sprouted or fermented are injurious and should never be fed. Oats are to be given whole or crushed; whole in the majority of instances, crushed to old horses and those having de- fective teeth. Horses that bolt their food are best fed upon crushed oats and out of a manger large enough to permit of spreading the grain inathin layer. ‘The average horse requires, in addition to the allow- ance of hay above spoken of, about twelve quarts of good oats daily. ‘The best oats are those cut about one week before being fully ripe. Not only is the grain richer at this time in nutritive materials, but there is also less waste from ‘‘scattering’’ than if left to become dead ripe. Moldy oats, like hay and straw, not only produce serious digestive dis- orders, but have been the undoubted cause of outbreaks of that dread disease in horses, characterized by inability to eat or drink, sudden paralysis, and death. Wheat and Rye. ‘These grains are not to be used as food for horses except in small quantities, bruised or crushed, and fed mixed with other grains or hay. If fed alone, in any considerable quantities, they are almost certain to produce digestive disorders, laminitis ‘‘foun- der,’’ and similar troubles. They should never constitute more than one-fourth of the grain allowance, and should always be ground or crushed. Bran. ‘The bran of wheat is the one most used, and its value as a feeding stuff is variously estimated. It is not to be depended upon if given alone, but may be fed with other grains. It serves to keep the bowels open. Sour bran should not be given. It disorders the stom- ach and intestines and may even produce serious results. 40 THE HORSE. Corn. ‘This grain is not suitable as an exclusive food for young horses, as it is deficient in salts. It is fed whole or ground. Corn on the cob is commonly used as the food for horses affected with ‘‘lampas.”’ If the corn is old and is to be fed in this manner it should be soaked in pure, clean water, for ten or twelve hours. Corn is better given ground, and fed in quantities of from one to two quarts at a meal mixed w*th crushed oats or wheat bran. We must be very particular in giving corn to a horse that is not accustomed to its use. It must be commenced in small quantities and very gradually increased. There is no grain more likely to produce acute indigestion than corn if these directions are not observed. Linseed. Ground linseed is occasionally fed with other foods to keep the bowels open and to improve the condition of the skin. It is of particular service during convalescence, when the bowels are sluggish in their action. Linseed tea is very often given in irritable or inflamed conditions of the digestive organs. Potatoes. These are used as an article of food for the horse in many sections. If fed raw and in large quantities they often produce indigestion. ‘Their digestibility is favored by steaming or boiling. They possess, in common with other roots, slight laxative properties. Beets. These are not much used as food for horses. Carrots. These make a most excellent food, particulariy during sickness. ‘They improve the appetite and slightly increase the action of the bowels and kidneys. They possess also certain alterative properties. ‘The coat becomes smooth and glossy when carrots are fed. Some vet- erinary writers claim that chronic cough can be cured by feeding carrots. Carrots may be considered as very beneficial if fed regularly in small quantities. Grasses. The natural food of the horse is grass. There are many varieties and they vary much in value. Some are almost without value as food and are only eaten when there is nothing else obtainable, while others are positively injurious or even poisonous. None of the grasses are sufficient to keep the horse in condition for work. Horses ¢hus fed ate ‘‘soft,’’ sweat easily, purge, and soon tire on the road or when at hard work. ‘To growing stock grass is of great value, and there is no doubt that it acts as an alterative when given to horses that have been fed on hay and grain. ‘To such it should be given in small quanti- ties at first. If the horse is turned to grass for a time each year it gives the stomach and intestines a chance to undergo rest and recuperate. CHAPTER III. Medicines, Their Doses and Effects. TIME REQUIRED FOR DRUGS TO TAKE EFFECT, EXPLANATION OF THE EFFECT OF DRUGS, DOSES OF MEDICINE ACCORDING TO AGE, HOW OFTEN TO GIVE MEDICINE, TABLE OF DRUGS, THEIR DOSES, AND EXTERNAL AND INTERNAL ACTION. UCH attention and study should be given to the quantity of a drug or medicine that should be administered and how often the dose should be repeated. ‘The effect that should be expected from the medicine and the time that should elapse before the result should be noticeable. One not having accurate knowledge is often through impatience tempted to repeat a dose before the medicine has had time to operate, and thus an overdose is the result, which is often more dangerous in its results, than the disease it is given to cure. To aid in the better understanding of the effects of drugs and of the table herein annexed which gives the action and doses of the various medicinal substances, the following explanation of the usual terms used, is given. EXPLANATION OF THE EFFECT OF DRUGS. Absorbent—that which takes up or absorbs. Alterative—that which changes the conditions and functions of organs. Anaesthetic—that which causes the loss of feeling or sensation. Anodyne—that which sooths or diminishes pain. Antacid—that which kills the effect of acids. Anthelmintic—used to kill or expe! worms. Antiperiodic—stops or holds back the return of spasms in periodic diseases. 42 THE HORSE. Antiseptics—stop or hold back the decay of tissues. Antispasmodic—that which prevents or lessens cramps. Aperient—used to gently open the bowels. Aromatic—a strong smelling stimulant used to dispel wind and allay pain. Astringent—that which causes contraction. Carminative—a warming stimulant. Cathartic—used to freely open the bowels. Caustic—that which will destroy tissues. Cholagogue—causes an increase in the secretion of bile. Demulcent—a soothing substance which protects irritated surfaces. Deturgent—a substance which cleanses the skin. Diaphoretic—a remedy which increases the secretion of sweat. Discutient—a local application which removes the congestion of in- flamed parts, and the skin covering them. Disinfectant—that which destroys contagious matter. Diuretic—increases the secretion of urine. Ecbolic—that which causes contraction of the womb. Emetic—that which induces vomiting. Emollient—a substance which softens and relaxes the parts to which they are applied. Excitant—a stimulant when applied locally. Expectorant—that which aids in removing the secretions from the air-passages. Febrifuge—lessens fevers and lowers temperature. Laxative—a mild physic. Narcotic—produces sleep and allays pain. Refrigerant—that which diminishes heat. Sedative—that which exerts a soothing effect upon the system, Soperific—another name for a narcotic. Stimulant—that which temporarily excites the nervous system or the circulation. Sialogogues—that which increases the secretion of saliva. Stomachic—an improver of digestion. Tonic—that which improves digestion and nutrition. Vermifuge—a substance used to kill and expel worms. A reference to the above explanation will readily explain the effects of the drugs as given in the table. FEEDING AND CARE. 43 DOSES OF MEDICINE ACCORDING TO AGE. Horse. Ox. SHEEP & SWINE Docs. Dose. 3 years 2 years I year 6 months I part 1 to 3 years 6 months |9to1r2months/3 to 6 months) 4% “ gto18months}/6to12months/5 tog ‘‘ rto3 ‘ yw 5tog “ 3to6 ‘* 3to5 ** 20to 30days|/% ‘* ce ce « 1 to 3 1 to 3 1 to 3 toto 20 “ j|1-16 ‘ The foregoing table may serve as a guide to the proportionate amount of medicine to be given at the various ages. This refers to animals that are of ordinary size for their ages. Allowance should be made in case the animal is much under or over size. It is well also to make some al- lowance where the animal is of an exceedingly nervous temperament. A study of the effect of various diseases upon the action of medicine is very important. It will be found that in many diseases of the brain and spinal cord, and in some diseases of the stomach, a much larger quantity than usual of purgative medicines are necessary. On the other hand, in severe cases of low fevers and influenza, much less than the usual dose may prove fatal. Thus it can .be seen that a careful study of the effect of medicine under various conditions is very essential. HOW OFTEN TO GIVE MEDICINES. Alteratives—may be given once or twice a day. Purgatives—should not be repeated under twenty-four hours, even in severe cases, and in ordinary cases not under forty-eight hours. Tonics—should be given two or three times a day. Stimulants—if found necessary may be repeated after three, hours. Anodynes—may be repeated after an hour. Ecbolics—may be repeated after forty-five minutes. Febrifuges—or medicine to reduce temperature and allay fevers, should be given as often as every two or three hours in severe cases, and as often as three times a day in mild cases. Aconite, belladonna, the various forms of ammonia, spirits of nitre, and the solutions of the ni- trate and chlorate of potash, are the most common of the febrifuges. 44 THE HORSE. Table of Medicinal Substances, Their Doses and Action. AGENT. DOSE. Arabic, gum Acetic acid Arsenious acid Acid, muriatic, dil. or Acid, hyd. chl., dil. Acid, nitrie, dil. 1-5 Acid, sulphuric, dil. Aconite, tincture Aconite, extract Adeps (Lard) Aloes, extract Alum Alum, burnt Ammonia aqua Am. spirit aromatic Arsenic Arsenic, iodide Borax Belladonna extract, Carbolic acid Camphor Ad lib. 1 to 3 drams 2 to 7 grains 1 to 3 fluid drams, 1 to 2 fluid drams, 1 to 2 fluid drams, 10 to 20 drops. 15 to 20 grains. 4 to 8 fluid drams. 2 to 4 drams. Dust freely. ¥% to 1 fluid dram ¥% to1 fluid dream 1 to 5 grains. 2 to 10 grains, I to 2 drams. ACTION. INTERNALLY. EXTERNALLY. Demulcent Antiseptic Astringent and Rubefacient Tonic Caustic Tonic Antiseptic and Tonic Caustic Tonic Caustic Tonic Caustic Sedative Sedative Sedative |....... Saya > eee Emollient Purgative |....... Astringent | Astringent ea RE Escharotic Stimulant and Stimulant Antacid Antacid |[....... Alterative amd fF lee.g. Brae teh) a ‘Tonic Alterative ANG i iuiob bi bet Tonic Bey sa ay tae he Detergent Narcotic Sedative Caustic Bub Ge te and Antiseptic Narcotic Discutient 1 to 3 drams. FEEDING AND CARE, 45 Table of Medicinal Substances, Their Doses and Action. ACTION. AGENTS aca 1 to 2 drams. Colchicum and Laxative |---+-+-+-- I to 2 drams. Collodion |, ,,,.,., Adhesivé 9 js ace ee ee Copaiba, balsam of |Diuretic |... .--- ¥% to 1 ounce. Antiseptic Caustic ¥ tor fluid dram. Creasote and and Tonic Antiseptic ¥% to 1 fluid dram. Chalk, prepared Antacid Absorbent 2 to 4 ounces. Croton oil Purgative Irritant 20 to 30 drops. Astringent Erodent 1 to 2 drams. Copper, sulphate of and and Tonic Excitant 1 to 2 drams. Calomel Cathartic Bafa GSC Be ce ¥% to 2 drams. Corrosive sublimate | Alterative Caustic 5 to Io grains. Digitalis Narcotic |[......-. 1 to 2 drams. Ergot Parturient |....... 2 to 4 drams. Ether Antispasm Refrigerant |q to 6 fluid drams. Flax seed Demuleent |....... Ad lib. Gentian Tonics | ew ueple'e'A 2 to 4 drams. Gentian, tincture Tonic |... +s ¥ to 1 fluid ounce. Ginger Tonite | sei aruces 2 to 4 drams, 46 THE HORSE. Table of Medicinal Substances, Their Doses and Action. ACTION. > i AGENT: 4a a.e aig claviie ames DOSE. INTERNALLY. EXTERNALLY. Glycerine Nutrient Emollient 4 to 6 ounces. Henbane, extract of | Narcotic Sedative 1 to 2 drams. Narcotic Henbane, tincture and Sedative I to 2 ounces. Anodyne Glandular Glandular Iodine and and 5 to 10 grains. Excitant Excitant Astringent Iron, sulphate of Gua |e AP al were he 2 to 4 drams. Tonic Alterative Iron, iodide of and; I ae wil aa % to1 dram. Tonic Linseed oil Laxative Emollient ¥% tor pint Mercury, bichloride | Alterative Caustic 5 to 10 grains. Alterative io te 20 grains. Mercury, chloride and Cathartic |. ..... ¥% to 2 drams. Magnesia Antacid % to I ounce. Magnesia, sulphate |Laxative |....... ¥% to 1 pound. Antiseptic Myrrh and ‘Traumatic 2 to 4 drams. Tonic Nut-galls Astringent | Astringent 2 to 4 drams. Nitrate of silver |. ...... Caustie: pane el Ses Demulcent Olive oil and Emollient 1 to 1% pint. Laxative Narcotic Opium and, be a ee . |I to 2 drams. Antispasm DRUGS AND MEDICINES 47 Table of Medicinal Substances, Their Doses and Action. ACTION. AGENT: ose aac ps as eae a DOSE. INTERNALLY. EXTERNALLY. Narcotic Opium, tincture of and Anodyne ¥% to 2 fluid ounces. Antispasm Petroleum Stimulant Stimulant 2 to 4 ounces. Stimulant Pimemta (allspice) aid, fen Res 2 to 4 drams. Tonic Pitch, Burgundy j|....... Rubefacient |... .....0.. Pitch (Tar) = | ee eas Rubefacient |... ...... Potash ee ee tes Catistie: | ft ae dau heh gdea se Antacid Potassium carbonate and, fe ey Geos See 2 to 4 drams. Diuretic Potassium, chlorate |Stimulant(??)|......-. 1 to 2 drams. Febrifuge Refrigerant Potassium, nitrate and and 2 to 4 drams. Diuretic Antiseptic Quinine Toni¢ |.x grees ¥y to1 dram. Resin Diuretic ee ee ¥% tot dram. Sabina ...... . | Irritant Re a echt Antacid Soap and Stimulant ¥ to 2 ounces Diuretic Antacid Sal-soda and 2 to 4 drams. Diuretic Soda sulphate (Glaubers salt)| Diuretic [|.....-.-- ¥% tor pound. Diuretic Spirit of nit. ether. and | ee wwaws 1 to 2 fluid ounces. Antispasm Sulphur, iodide Alterative Detergent ¥% to 1 dram. 48 THE HORSE. Table of Medicinal Substances, Their Doses and Action. ACTION. AGENT? Wes Se See daueae Gad DOSE. INTERNALLY. EXTERNALLY. Strychnine ar eacaheae eee ee ero I to 3 grains. Laxative Sulphur and Detergent I to 4 ounces. Alterative Nauseant Tartar, emetic and Irritant ¥% tor dram. Diaphoretic. Turpentine Diuretic Digestive ¥% to 1 ounce. Diuretic | ......., 2 to 4 fluid drams. Tupentine oil Antispasm —_| Irritant 3 to 6 fluid ounces. Cathartic f|....... ¥% to 1 pint Zinc, acetate |......, Astringent |. . 1... Zine, carbonate |.,,....., Astringent ., | |... Caustic Zinc, chloride |......, Amd hice gyre de auton of Antiseptic Zinc, oxide 8 ee ee | OBRTINgeNE fp Astringent | Erodent Zinc, sulphate and and I to 2 drams. Tonic Astringent Common Names for a Few Drugs. Tincture of Opium Sulphate of Iron . Mercury, bichloride . Mercury, mild chloride Sulphate of Zinc Cantharides Nitrous Ether Argentum Nitrate Laudanum. Copperas. Corrosive Sublimate. Calomel. White Vitriol. Spanish Fly, Sweet Spirits of Nitre. Nitrate of Silver, CHAPTER IV. THE DIGESTIVE ORGANS. Their Diseases and How to Cure Them. DESCRIPTION OF ALIMENTARY CANAL, DISEASES OF THE TEETH, DISEASES OF THE MOUTH, DISEASES OF THE GULLET AND G{SOPHAGUS, DISEASES OF THE STOMACH, DISEASES OF THE INTESTINES, DIS- EASES OF THE LIVER, INTESTINAL, WORMS. HE process carried on by the various organs of the alimentary canal thereby changing the form and character of the food, in or- der that it may be absorbed into the blood as nourishment is known as digestion. The organs whose functions it is to perform this work are known as the digestive organs. The first portion of the ali- mentary canal is the mouth, where are found the teeth for making the food fine and mixing it with the saliva from the salivary glands which open into thisorgan. By mixing the saliva with the food, dry sub- stances become soft, are easily swallowed, and more easily digested. This saliva has another very important duty and that is, that by aid of a peculiar ferment called ptyalin, the starchy substances found in hay, grain, and roots are changed to maltose, then by taking on water further change to grape sugar. The digestion carried on in the stomach is called gastric digestion or stomach digestion, that in the small intestines intestinal digestion. The large intestines are used principally in ab- sorbing the liquid coming from the small intestines and carrying off the refuse matter after the nourishing portion has been absorbed by the villi 5° THE HORSE. which are processes or projections which line the small intestines, the greater number being found in their upper half. Whenever any portion of this wonderful canal does not properly perform its duties, there is a waste of food, and a lack of proper nourishment of the body. The fol- lowing are the diseases to which this portion of the body is liable to- gether with the treatment as given by Dr. Charles B. Michener, V. S. Inspector of Bureau of Animal Industry and Professor of Pathology and Obstetrics at New York College of Veterinary Surgeons. An authority that cannot be questioned. DISEASES OF THE TEETH. Cutting Teeth. From birth to the age of five years, the young horse is cutting his teeth. During this time two sets have made their appearance, the first or milk teeth and the second or permanent teeth. More difficulty is experienced in cutting the latter, and the mouth should be frequently examined, in order to see if one or more of the milk teeth are not remaining too long, causing the second teeth to grow in crooked, in which case the first teeth should be removed by the for- ceps. Also, see if the second teeth are causing little red tumors on the gums, if so make incisions through the gums down to the coming teeth. There is atendency among farmers and veterinarians to pay too little attention to the teeth of young horses. Percival relates an illustration of this which is best told in his own words: “IT was requested to give my opinion concerning a horse, then in his fifth year, who had fed so sparingly for the iast fortnight, and so rapidl, declined in condition in consequence, that his owner, a veterin- ary surgeon, was under no light apprehension about his life. He had himself examined his mouth, without having discovered any defect or disease ; though another veterinary surgeon was of opinion that the difficulty or inability manifested in mastication, and the consequent “cudding,’’ arose from preternatural bluntness of the surfaces of the molar teeth, which were, in consequence filed, but without beneficial re- sults. It was after this that I saw the horse; and I confess I was, at my first examination, quite as much at a loss to offer any satisfactory in- terpretation as others had been: While meditating, however, after my inspection, on the apparently extraordinary nature of the case, it struck me, I had not seen the tusks. I went back into the stable and dis- covered two little tumors, red and hard, in the situation of the inferior tusks, which when pressed gave the animal great pain. I instantly took DISEASES OP THE DIGESTIVE ORGANS. 51 out my pocket-knife and made crucial incisions through them both, down to the coming teeth, from which moment the horse recovered his appetite and by degrees his wonted condition.’’ Irregular Teeth. In large cities there is a class of ‘‘veterinary dentists’ and it is a fashion to call these humbugs and have the teeth regularly ‘‘floated’’ or ‘‘rasped.’? In some instances rasping is benefi- cial, but in most cases it is entirely unnecessary. The rubbing or grind- ing surface of the horse’s teeth should be rough, hence rasping them down flat and even is injurious, Remember that the upper jaw is a little wider than the lower and hence the teeth do not fit exactly one over the other and after a sharp ridge is left unworn on the inside of the lower molars and the outside of the upper molars, it may excoriate, (lacerate or cut) the tongue or lips. This condition can readily be felt and these sharp cutting ridges when found should be rasped down by a guarded rasp. Any one can do this without the aid of a veterinarian. In some instances the first or last molar tooth is unnaturally long, owing to the absence of its fellow on the other jaw opposite. If this is the case, call a veterinarian who has the necessary forceps or chisel for cutting it. Decayed Teeth. When a tooth is decayed it is quite common to find the tooth, corresponding to the decayed one, on the opposite jaw very much lengthened, sometimes so much that the mouth can not be perfectly closed. Such teeth also need a veterinarian with proper tools. In all cases where horses ‘‘quid’’ their food, or where they are slobber- inz, or show pain when chewing their hay or grain, which is shown by their holding their head to one side when chewing, the teeth should be examined. If as in most cases these symptoms are due tosharp corners, or edges these must be removed by the rasp. If decayed teeth are found or any other serious difficulty call an expert. Toothache. ‘This is very rare in the horse, and usually is caused by a decayed tooth. It is only found in the molar teeth. The horse will show pain while drinking cold water, or while eating. They will sometimes suddenly stop chewing, throwing the head to one side, and slightly open mouth. They act as if some sharp body had punctured the mouth. If these symptoms appear, examine the horse for some for- eign body, and if not found carefully examine each tooth. If you are not able to do this with the hand in the mouth, you can in most in- stances discover the aching tooth by pressure from the outside. ‘The horse will flinch when the sore tooth is pressed upon. 52 THE HORSE. What to Do. The only thing that can be done in most cases, is to take the tooth out, and this should only be attempted by the veteri- narian. Parrot-mouth. ‘This is a deformity of the mouth that interferes with the teeth fitting properly one over the other, hence hindering proper mastication and thus indirectly digestion. In a parrot-mouth the upper incisors (front cutting teeth) project in front of and beyond the lower ones. ‘The teeth of both jaws become unusually long, as they are not worn down by friction. Horses having parrot-mouths find it very difficult to eat grass if not cut for them. What to Do. Littlecan be done, except to frequently examine the mouth and if the teeth of the lower jaw become so long that they bruise the ‘‘bars’’ of the upper jaw, they must be shortened by the rasp or saw. Horses with this deformity should never be left entirely at pasture. DISEASES OF THE MOUTH. Lampas. The mucous.membrane (skin) covering the hard palate (roof of the front part of upper jaw) occasionally becomes swelled and projects in a more or less prominent ridge just back of the upper front teeth (incisors.) This is calledlampas. In rare instances, particularly while teething, there is congestion and swelling of this part of the roof of the mouth sufficient to interfere with feeding. In one instance only in the extensive practice of Dr. Michener has he found a:case where the swelling was so,extensive as to have it caught between the front teeth when the horse attempted to eat. What to Do. If the swelling is very bad a resort to scarifying should be had, being careful not to cut deeply into the structures. A wash of strong alum water may also be beneficial. Burning of the lampas, so often recommended, is cruel and unnecessary, it should never be permitted, as it often causes serious results to follow. Novrr.—It is a quite common opinion among owners of horses and stablemen that lampas is a disease that very frequently exists. In fact whenever a horse fails to eat, and if he does not exhibit very marked symptomis of a severe illness, they say at once ‘“‘he has the lampas.’’ It is almost impossible to convince them of their error, yet in a practice of fifteen years Dr. Michener has never seen but two or three cases of what is called lampas that gave the least trouble, or that called for any treat- ment whatever. It may be put down, then, as more of a disease of the stableman’s imagination than of the horse’s mouth. DISEASES OF THE DIGESTIVE ORGANS. 53 Inflammation of Lining of the Mouth. This is scientifically called stomatitis. It is an inflammation of the mucous membrane lin- ing the mouth, and is produced by irritating medicines, foods, or other substances. The symptoms are swelling of the mouth, which is hot and painful to the touch; copious discharge of saliva; mucous membrane reddened; sometimes ulcers appearing. What to Do. The treatment is simple, soft feed alone often being all that is necessary In some cases it may be advisable to use a wash of chlorate of potash, borax or alum, about one-half ounce to a pint of water. Hay should be fed steamed, and all other foods in soft condi- tion. Inflammation of the Tongue. The true name is glossitis and is very similar to stomatitis, generally exists with it and due to same causes. ‘The treatment is the same. If it is caused by injuries to the tongue which are severe enough to produce lacerations or abcesses, call an expert. Excessive Saliva. Ptyalism or salivation isan excessive secretion of saliva. Often seen as a symptom of irregular teeth, inflammation of mouth or tongue, or use of such medicines as lobelia, and mercury. Some foods produce it, as clover, particularly second crop ; wheat chaff or corn- cobs lodged in the mouth. When cause is removed, usually the trouble ends. Alum water may be applied to the mouth with a sponge. Pharyngitis. This is inflammation of the lining of the pharynx (back part of the mouth). Generally accompanied by stomatitis, glos- sitis, or laryngitis. When mostly confined to pharnyx, there are fever symptoms, difficulty in swallowing ; soreness over larnyx (large ring of windpipe); increased flow of saliva ; difficulty of swallowing liquids and cough only when trying to drink. What to Do. Give chlorate of potash in half ounce doses three or four times a day. Mix with licorice root powder and honey and give with a strong spoon or wooden paddle. Borax or alum in same size doses may be given suspended in warm water, if the chlorate of potash is not handy. Paralysis of the Throat. Thisis properly called Paralysis of the Pharnyx, and is one of the most stubborn diseases of the horse. The horse is unable to eat ; manger contains saliva and frothy food that has returned through the nose ; horse has anxious countenance ; pulse, respi- ration, and temperature, at first about the same as in health; animal tries to eat or drink but unable to do so; if water is offered the animal 54 THE HORSE. will try to drink by the hour, and apparently does so, but the water in the pail does not lower ; food returns through the nostrils or is dropped from the mouth quidded. There is no apparent obstruction and no symptoms except that the parts are flabby to the touch. What to Do. ‘Treatment is very unsatisfactory. Apply some blis- ters behind and under jaw. Swab mouth frequently with alum or chlorate of potash, one ounce to a pint of water, by means of sponge on end of stick. Strychnine is the best thing to be used to overcome this paralysis, and should be given in one-grain doses three or four times a day. This medicine should be given as a hyperdermic injection deep into the pharnyx. Asa rule the external blister, frequent swabbing as above, and a nerve stimulant are all that can be done. Abscesses in the Pharnyx. Symptoms resemble laryngitis or distemper. If breathing is interfered with, which increases, and with- out swelling or only slight and increasing fullness there may be an ab- scess in this location. About all that can be done, is to hurry the ripen- ing of abscess, by steaming with hops, or hay. If the abscess can be felt through the mouth call a veterinarian to open it. DISEASES OF THE GULLET. Choking. The mechanical trouble of choking is quite common. It is often caused when the animal is suddenly startled while eating apples or roots, and we should never suddenly approach or put a dog after horses or cows that are feeding upon such substances. If left alone they rarely choke, but if startled they try to swallow before the food is proper- ly masticated and choking is the result. Choking also arises from horses bolting their food, hence avoid narrow deep grain mangers. Wheat chaff is also a frequent source of choke. Whatever the object causing the choking it may lodge in the upper part of the cesophagus (pharynegeal choke) in the middle part (cervical choke) or close to the stomach (thoracic choke). The symptoms will vary according to position of the body causing the choke. Pharyngeal Choke. The object is lodged in upper portion of the cesophagus. Animal in great distress; hurried breathing; frequent cough; sweating; trembling or stamping of fore-feet. Abdomen rapidly distend with gas. The object can usually be felt in the upper part of the throat, and can be removed by the hand. Cervical Choke. The object is lodged anywhere between the throat-latch and the shoulder. The object can be both seen and felt. DISEASES OF THE DIGESTIVE ORGANS. 55 Symptoms not so severe ; animal occasionally draws himself up ; arches his neck ; and sometimes utters a loud shriek ; expression anxious, and attempts at vomiting made; abdomen full. Soften or lubricate the ob- struction by pouring oil or mucilaginous drinks, as flax-seed tea, down the gullet. Endeavor to move object by gentle pressure with the hands. If oats or chaff, gently squeeze the lower portion trying to loosen a little at atime. Work at least an hour before giving up, then if a failure, use the probang. Thoracic Choke. Symptomis less severe, yet similar to above, and if choke is not found between throat-latch and shoulder, it is probably lower down. It can be successfully treated by means of the introduction of oils and mucilaginous drinks and the probang. Probang and How to Use It. In the absence of the regular in- strument, which must always be flexible and finished with a smooth cup- shaped extremity, use an inch hose. Keep mouth open with a gag of wood, head slightly raised and extended. ‘The probang carefully guided by the hand into the upper part of the gullet and gently forced down until the obstruction is reached. Pressure then should be gradual and firm. Do not use too much force, keep up a firm pressure until you feel the object moving, after which you are to follow it rapidly to the stomach. Never allow a whip-stalk or shovel handle to be used. DISEASES OF THE STOMACH. Stomach Staggers or Gorged Stomach. Properly named im- paction. The stomach is so filled and distended that it loses all power of contracting upon its contents. It is occasioned by too largea feed after a long fast, or when animal has gotten loose and gained access to grain bin and eaten ravenously. The small stomach of the horse and inability to vomit will account for its frequent occurence. The animal is dull and heavy, or drowsy; slight colicky symptoms are observed, which are continuous; rarely lies down; carries head extended and low; nearly touching the ground. Dullness increases; eyes are partially closed, vision impaired; thrusts head against side of stall; paws or even climbs with fore-feet. Breathes less frequently than in health; the pulse slow and sluggish. All symptoms increase rapidly in severity; soon becomes de- lirious; cold sweat on body; trembles violently; slobbers out a sour fer- menting mass, staggers from side to side, and plunges till he drops dead. 56 THE HORSE. Treatment. This is very unsatisfactory. Give a purgative of Bar- badoes aloes, one ounce. ‘Then try to stimulate the walls of the stom- ach to contract by giving cayenne pepper, one-half ounce, or Jamaica ginger one-half ounce. Give rectum injections of two ounces of turpen- tine into eight ounces of linseed oil. Tympanitis of the Stomach. This is of frequent occurrence yet not treated separately in works on veterinary medicine. Causes and symptoms similiar to the last, yet distinct enough to enable the careful observer to tell one from the other. In tympanitis the distension is caused by gas instead of by food. This corresponds to “‘hoven’’ in cat- tle and is due to overloading the stomach with young growing herbage, clover in particular, or feeding extra meal immediately before a hard journey. he flanks are distended with gases and the horse tries to retch or vomit. What to Do. Treatment must be prompt and energetic. Some antacid must be given. Asit usually occurs on the road and probably some distance froma drug store, hasten to the first house. Get com- mon BAKING SODA and give two to four ounces as quickly as possible. One-half ounce of cayenne pepper or two ounces of black pepper may be added to this with advantage, as it serves to aid the walls of the stomach to contract and expel the gas. Any medicine that will check or stop fermentation, or absorb the gas may be given, as for example: charcoal in any amount; chloride of lime, one-half ounce; or carbonate of ammonia, one-half ounce. A physic of one ounce of aloes or one pint of linseed oil should be given to unload the stomach. Learn this lesson from these attacks—that when an animal is expected to do an un- usual amount of work it will be best done on its usual amount of feed. Don’t be so humane (?) as to extra feed just before the journey, but wait until your journey’s end, and even then don’t feed until the animal is thoroughly rested. Manya faithful animal has been killed by the kindness of its master. Rupture of the Stomach. This usually occurs as a result of en- gorged or tympanitic stomach, and there is no treatment that can be of any use whatever. Could one be sure that this is the trouble it would be best to destroy the animal at once, but there is always au uncertain- ty, as it may be only a very severe case of engorged or tympanitic stom- ach and the animal may recover, hence give powdered opium in one dram doses every two or three hours in addition to remedies as recom- mended for tympanitis. DISEASES OF THE DIGESTIVE ORGANS. 57 Gastritis. This is an inflammation of the mucous membrane lining the stomach. Symptoms not well marked and are generally due to me- chanical irritation or irritating or corrosive poisons in large quantities. There is a feverish condition, colicky pains, and intense thirst. When poisons have produced gastritis there will be other symptoms according to the poison swallowed. Lead Poisoning. ‘This occurs near paint works, near newly paint- ed buildings and fences, and where paint kegs are left in the fields, and where water runs through new lead pipes. Lead poisoning produces labored breathing, abdominal pains, partial paralysis, tottering gait, convulsions, and death. What to Do. Give thirty to sixty drops of sulphuric acid in a half gallon water. Follow with or precede if not ready at hand, either milk, white of eggs, oil of any kind, flaxseed, gruel or tea. If the poi- son is due to long taking of small quantities of lead or from water flow- ing through new lead pipes, give from one-half toa pound of Epson salts. Iodide of potassium in one dram doses, twice a day are of much service. If much pain is manifest, give three to five grain doses ot . morphine, two or three times a day. Arsenic Poisoning. When the poison is arsenic there will be symptoms of abdominal pain, nausea, purging accompanied by an offen- sive odor, staggering gait, quickened breathing, paralysis of hind ex- tremities. Poisoning from arsenic is most common where sheep have been dipped in arsenical baths to cure ‘‘scab’’ and then run on pas- ture without first drying their wool. Arsenic is thus deposited on the grass and is eaten by animalsin the pasture. Give oil, milk, white of eggs, and flaxseed gruel or tea. Powdered opium in one-half dram doses two or three times a day may be given to allay the pain and in- flammation. Care should be observed in feeding for a time, giving only soft and easily digested foods. Nors.—Gastritis may also occur from poisoning by copper, corrosive sublimate, and some vegetable poisons. Stones in the Stomach. Gastric concretions, calculi (stones) in the stomach have been most found in millers’ horses. A small piece of mill stone or other substance forms a centre around which is gathered in layers the stony substances which abound in their feed, (sweepings from the mill floor). ‘There are few symptoms exhibited that will lead us to suspect calculi and probably none by which we can unmistakably assert its presence. There is a depraved capricious appetite; a disposi- 58 THE HORSE. tion to eat any thing within reach. ‘They sometimes have repeated at- tacks of colic, which recover abruptly; and the animal assumes a position to relieve pain—sitting on haunches, o: standing with front feet on an elevation. ‘There is no effective remedy, all that can be done is to give physic to move the bowels, to relieve pain, and to combat the inflammation. Bots—lLarvee of the Gad-fly. There are so many wrong opin- ions concerning the bot and the harm it is supposed to do the horse, that we give it considerable space. Of the many insect parasites and other tomentors of the horse, mule, and other solipeds, the gad-fly is of the most importance. Cobbold, who it the best authority on the subject, says: ‘‘The common gad fly attacks the animal while grazing late in the summer, its object being not to derive sustenance, but to deposit its eggs. This is accomplished by means ofa glutinous excretion, causing the ova (eggs) to adhere to the hairs. The parts selected are chiefly those of the shoulder, base of the neck, and inner part of the fore-legs, especially about the knees, for in these situations the horse will have no difficulty in reaching the ova with its tongue. When the animal licks those parts of the coat where the eggs have been placed, the mois- ture of the tongue, aided by warmth, hatches the ova, and in something less than three weeks from the time of the deposition of the eggs the larvee have made their escape. As maggots they are next transferred to the mouth and ultimately to the stomach along with food and drink. A great many larvee perish during this passive mode of immigration, some being dropped from the mouth and others being crushed in the fodder during mastication. It has been calculated that out of the many hundreds of eggs deposited on a single horse scarcely one out of the fifty of the larvee arrive within the stomach. Notwithstanding this waste the interior of the stomach may be completely covered (cuticular portion) with bots. Whether there be few or many they are anchored in this situation chiefly by means of two large cephalic hooks. After the bots have attained ‘perfect growth they voluntarily loosen their hold and allow themselves to be carried along the alimentary canal until they es- cape with the feces. In all cases they sooner or later fall to the ground and when transferred to the soil they bury themselves beneath the sur- face in order to undergo transformation into the pupa condition. ” Hay- ing remained in the earth for a period of six or seven weeks, they final- ly emerge from their pupal-cocoons as perfect dipterus (winged) :asects DISEASES OF THE DIGESTIVE ORGANS. 59 the gad-fly. It thus appears that bots ordinarily pass about eight months of their lifetime in the digestive organs of the horse.”’ The species just described infest chiefly the stomach and duodenum (small intestine leading from the stomach.) ‘The idea, almost univer- sally obtained, that bots often cause colicky pains is wrong. It is com- mon to hear by-standers declare that almost every horse with the ‘‘belly ache’’ ‘‘has the bots,’’ and their treatment is varied and heroic. Dr. Michiner says in his practice he has never known bots to be the cause of any disturbance. The opinion that ‘‘bots have eaten through the stomach’’ when the stomach is found ruptured is also an error. Bors ARE HARMLESS. Even if they were not, there are no medicines that af- fect them ; neither acids, nor alkalies, nor anthelmintics (worm medi- cines) nor anodynes cause them to become loose and pass out the body. To prevent them watch for their eggs on the legs and different parts of the body in the late summer and autumn, scrape them off and burn them. It is useless to try and remove them, they go at their appointed time during May and June. Indigestion. This is the name applied to all conditions where from any cause digestion is imperfectly performed. The trouble called in- digestion is not severe enough to produce colic, yet it is troublesome and the most frequent of all digestion disorders. The seat of the trouble will vary. ‘Teeth are often at fault, examine for sharp irregular edges or decayed teeth, (see remedies suggested under teeth.) The principal seat however of the trouble is the stomach or the small intestines. Whenever the secretions from these organs are excessive or deficient dyspepsia or indigestion must follow. It is often caused from ‘‘bolt- ing’’ the food (then get larger manger and spread out feed) or winter- ing on hard dry hay or corn-stalk, and other bulky and not very nutritive food ; irregular feeding or over feeding. Indigestion is shown by irregular appetite, refusing food at one time and at others eating ravenously ; appetite depraved ; bowels irregular; one day loose and bad smelling, the next bound; grain often passed through whole ; hay passed in balls ; animal passes wind having a sour odor ; skin hard, dry, and tight (hide bound). What to Do. After observing all that has been said regarding feeding under its special head if no improvement is seen, give a physic, aloes one ounce or linseed oil one pint. There is usually a tendency to gas which distends stomach and bowels, for which use the following alkaline treatment. Baking powder, powdered ginger, powdered gen- 60 THE HORSE. tian, four ounces each, mix and give heaping tablespoonful twice a day before feeding. This powder is best given by dissolving the above dose in a half pint of water and given as a drench. DISEASES OF THE INTESTINES. Spasmodic or Cramp Colic. Commonly called gripes. It is that form of colic produced by contraction, or spasm, of a portion of the small intestines. It is caused by indigestible food ; foreign bodies, as nails or stones in the bowels; large drinks of cold water when the ani- mal is warm ; driving a heated animal through deep streams ; cold rain ; draughts of cold air ; etc. Study the Symptoms. Study carefully the symptoms to dis- tinguish this from other forms of colic requiring quite a different treat- ment. Spasmodic colic always begins suddenly. If feeding, the horse stops suddenly, stamps impatiently, looks backward, then resumes feed- ing, to be followed by pawing, suddenly lying down, rolling, and getting up. Then an interval of ease, and the animal eats again and appears well. Then the pain returns increasing in severity only to pass off for atime. ‘The intervals of ease getting shorter and shorter. Animals with this kind of colic show the most severe pain; they throw them- selves down; roll over and over; jump up; whirl about; drop down again; paw or strike with the front feet ; steam and sweat ; make frequent at- tempts to pass urine with partial erection. Only a small quantity of water passed at a time, because the bladder being so frequently emptied, THERE IS BUT LITTLE WATER TO PASS. The attempts to urinate are often thought to be sure symptoms of kidney and bladder trouble. Re- member diseases of the bladder or kidneys are very rare. The stomach and intestines are diseased a thousand times, where the kidneys or blad- der is once. The attempts to pass water and failure to do so are not enough to warrant the decision that the animal has ‘‘trouble with his water,’’ neither should a statement be made that the horse has kidney disease, even if it yields or sinks when pinched over the loins. Try this pressure on any horse, and nearly all will yield; this is rather a sign of health than a symptom of disease. Keep in mind the conditions to which the animal has been subjected ; the suddenness of the attack ; the intervals of a lessening of pain (grow- ing shorter as the case progresses); the severe pain ; the temperature and pulse getting natural during the intervals of pain ; the frequent attempts DISEASES OF THE DIGESTIVE @RGANS. 61 to pass urine ; ifa male, the erections, etc.; and there is but little danger of mistaking this for any other form of colic. What to Do. The pain being due to spasms or cramps of the bowels, medicines should be given to overcome these spasms, viz.: anti- spasmodic. The best remedy is one ounce of chloral hydrate in a half- pint of water. Another remedy quite common and effectual is two ounces each of sulphuric ether and laudanum in half-pint of linseed oil. Still another remedy may be composed of two ounces each of sulphuric ether and alcohol in eight ounces of water. If nothing else is at hand give one half pint of whiskey in hot water. If the animal is not relieved in an hour repeat the dose. Keep the body very warmly clothed and try to get the animal to per- spire. Blankets dipped in very hot water to which a small quantity of turpentine has been added, should be fastened around the belly and coy- ered with dry blankets ; the belly may be rubbed with stimulating lini- ments or mustard water. The difficulty of keeping the hot blankets in place while the horse is violently moving about during the spasms of pain forces them in most cases to be abandoned. If the cramp is due to irritants in the bowels, a cure is not complete till the offending irritant is removed, and a cathartic consisting of one ounce of aloes or one pint of linseed oil should be given. Injections into the rectum of warm soapy water, or salt and water, aid the cure. The injection or enema should be lukewarm and from three to six quarts given ata time. Exercise will aid the action of the bowels in this and similar colicky troubles, but severe galloping or trotting should be avoided. Wind Colic. Sometimes called tympanitis or bloat. The most frequent causes of this form of colic are sudden changes of food; too long fasting and then food given while the animal is very tired ; new hay or grain ; large quantities of green food; food that has soured in the manger or mixing tub; indigestible food ; irregular teeth ; crib- biting ; in fact anything that interferes with digestion. Symptoms. This colic is not so suddenly developed, nor are the symptoms so severe, as in spasmodic or cramp colic. The animal is at first dull, paws slightly, may or may not lie down. The pains are con- tinuous ; the belly enlarged, and when struck in front of the haunches a drum-like sound is heard. If not soon relieved the symptoms are ag- gravated and in addition there is difficult breathing ; profuse sweating ; trembling of hind legs ; animal sighs when breathing ; staggers from side to side; and, finally, plunges forward dead. The distinguishing 62 THE HORSE. symptom of flatulent or wind colic is the bowels filled with gas, which is detected by the bloated appearance and the drum-like sound when struck in front of the haunches. Treatment for Wind Colic. The treatment for wind colic differs very much from the treatment for spasmodic or cramp colic. Gases have been formed and alkalies are used to neutralize them and they must be promptly given. Give baking-soda (bicarbonate of soda) in doses of two to four ounces. If this fails give chloride of lime in half- ounce doses, or the same quantity of carbonate of ammonia, every half- hour till relieved. Charcoal may be given in large quantities. Relax- ants and antispasmodics are beneficial in this form of colic, and as chloral-hydrate is a relaxant and antispasmodic and also an anti-ferment and pain-reliever it is particularly well adapted in the treatment of wind colic. Give in doses of one ounce in a half-pint of water. A physic should always be given in flatulent colic as early as possible, the best being aloes in doses of oneounce. Injections into the rectum of turpen- tine one totwo ounces, mixed with linseed oil eight ounces, may be given to stimulate the peristaltic movement of the bowels to aid in the expulsion of the gases. Wind colic is more fatal than spasmodic and requires prompt and per- sistent treatment. It is unsafe to predict results, some mild cases going on to speedy death, and some severe ones responding easily to treat- ment. Do not give up your efforts till you are sure the animal is dead. Blankets wrung out of hot water and renewed every five or ten minutes will do much to afford relief. Impaction of the Large Intestines. This is a very common bowel trouble, and one if not recognized and properly treated results in death. It is caused by over-feeding especially of grain, and is most common where rye is fed either alone or with other grain; old, hard, dry hay, or stalks when largely fed; lack of water; want of exercise; etc. Symptoms. There is abdominal pain, which may disappear for a day or so to return again. The feces passes more frequently but in small quantities and dry; the ‘‘belly’’ is full, but has no drum-like sound; the animal paws and then looks back at his side. The most characteristic sign is the horse lying flat on his side, head and legs ex- tended, occasionally raises his head to look at his flank; he remains on his side often from ten minutes toa quarter of an hour. The animal rises at times, walks about the stall, paws, look at his sides, backs up DISEASES OF THE DIGESTIVE ORGANS. 63 against the stall which he presses with his tail, and then lies down on his side again stretching out his legs. The pulse is little changed at first, being full and sluggish; later if condition is aot improved, the pulse becomes rapid and feeble. The Treatment. This consists in efforts to produce movements of the bowels. A cathartic is to be given, care being taken to give a full dose. Powdered aloes, one ounce ; calomel two drams ; and powdered nux vomica one dram should be given. In place of this linseed oil one pint and fifteen drops of croton oil may be used. Some give Epsom salts one pound with one-quarter pound of common salt claiming this makes the animal thirsty and the water of which it will drink large quantities will soften the hardened mass in the large intestines thus favoring its expulsion. Remember it takes from twenty to thirty hours before a horse responds to a physic, and under no circumstances should the dose be repeated in less time. If aloes have been given and have failed to operate, follow at the proper time with oil or some different cathartic. Give the animal all the water he will drink. The action of the physic may be aided by giving every three or four hours, one-half ounce of tincture of belladonna, or one-half dram of nux vomica. In- jections into the rectum should be given every hour using at least six quarts at a time and varied; give first soapy water, then salt and water, then one ounce of turpentine mixed with eight ounces of linseed oil. Rubbing or kneading of the ‘‘belly,’’ putting on stimulating liniments or strong mustard water will at times favor the expulsion of the harden- ed mass. When relief is not obtained it runs into inflammation of the bowels, and death follows. Constipation or Costiveness. This is a common disease in the adult horse, particularly in the foal. Many colts die every vear from failure on the part of the attendant to note the coniior of the powels soon after birth. Whenever the foal fails to pass feces or shows signs of colicky pains, immediate attention must ve given. A few injections of soapy water in the rectum to break down any hardened mass 1s usually all that is necessary. If this is not effective, a purgative must be given. Oils are the best for these young animals, and two to four ounces of castor oil should be given. The foal should always get the first of it mother’s milk, as this milk, for a few days, possesses decided laxative properties. Constipation in adult horses is usually the result of feeding on dry, innutritious food, scanty water supply, or lack of ex- ercise. Usually a change to light, sloppy food linseed gruel or tea, 64 THE HORSE. with plenty of exercise is all that is required. Sometimes two-dram doses of extract of belladonna three times a day will be necessary, or daily handful doses of Epsom salts in the feed. Intussusception or Invagination. ‘This is a slipping of a por- tion of the intestine into another portion immediately following, like a partially turned glove finger. It may occur at any part, but most com- mon in the small intestines. This is most likely to occur in horses that are suffering from spasm of the bowels. It may occur during the ex- istence of almost any abdominal trouble, as diarrhea, spasmodic colic, inflammation of the bowels, ete. ‘There are no symptoms by which it can be positively known. If there is severe straining it should be given attention, particularly if accompanied by colicky pains and constipation. In some cases the horse recovers and if this is suspected, call a veterin- arian, he may beable to relieve the animal. Twisting of the Bowels or Gut-tie. Volvulus or gut-tie is a somewhat common accident, and occurs quite frequently from the violent manner in which the horse throws himself about when affected with spasmodic colic. The symptoms are the same as those of obstruc- tion of the bowels and should be treated in the same manner. Diarrhea. Moldy or musty food, stagnant water, diseased teeth, eating irritating substances, feeding on low, marshy pastures and ex- posure during cold nights, will produce this disease. It is more often a symptom of some other disease; rather than an organic disease. Diarrhea may exist as a complication of other diseases, as pneumonia and influenza or during disease of the liver. The symptoms are fre- quent liquid stools, with or without abdominal pains. What to Do. ‘Treatment at times is very simple, but requires the utmost care and judgment. If due to faulty food and poor water, change them. If due to some irritant in the intestines, give one pint of linseed oil. If however purging continues, it may be checked by giv- ing wheat flour in water, starch water, white-oak bark tea, or half dram doses of sulphuric acid in one-half pint of water two or three times a day. Powdered opium, two drams; subnitrate of bismuth, one ounce; repeated three times a day, gives good result. Horses that scour on the road, should be watered and fed as long as possible before driving, If there is much bloating or flatulency during diarrhea, baking soda in doses of from two to four ounces often cures. If the discharges are very offensive in odor this can be remedied by giving one ounce of sulphite of soda or half a dram of carbolic acid in water, morning and night. DISEASES OP THE DIGESTIVE ORGANS. 65 Superpurgation. This is the name given to that diarrhea or flux induced by and following the action of a physic. It is accompanied by irritation or even inflammation of the bowels, and is always of a serious character. In rare cases it follows an ordinary dose of physic. It is usually the result of too large a dose of physic; to giving physic to hors- es suffering from pneumonia, influenza, or other debilitating diseases; to riding or driving a horse when purging; to exposure or draughts of cold air, or giving large quantities of cold water while physic is operating. There is always davger of superpurgation if a physic is given a horse suffering from diseases of the respiratory organs. When physic is given always feed the animal on sloppy food or mashes, until the physic be- gins to operate; clothe the body with a warm blanket; keep out of draughts. After physic has thoroughly operated, the purging can gen- erally be stopped by feeding dry oats and hay. If it does not stop give flax-seed tea, oatmeal or wheat-flour gruel. If these are not satisfactory in result, give one-half dram doses of sulphuric acid in one-half pint of water twice or three times a day. Ifthe animal has become weakened, give brandy in doses of from two to four ounces, with milk and eggs four or five times aday. ‘‘Founder’’ is a frequent result of this disease, and should be guarded against by removing shoes and standing the horse on moist sawdust or some similiar bedding. Dysentery or Bloody Flux. This disease is characterized by coffee-colored or bloody discharges, liquid, and very offensive in odor and passed with much tenesmus (straining). It is rare in the horse. Symptoms. The first symptom is a chill which will probably pass unnoticed. ‘The discharges are offensive and for the most part liquid, although it is common to find lumps of solid fecal matter floating in the liquid portion; sheds of mucous membrane and blood are passed; there is much straining, and, occasionally, symptoms of abdominal pain; the animal lies downa great deal; pulse is quickened and the temperature raised. ‘The appetite may remain fair, but in spite of this the horse continues to lose flesh, and becomes a sorry looking object. Thirst is a prominent symptom. Death usually follows in from one to three weeks. What to Do. Care and feeding is more to be depended upon than any drugs or medicine. First the horse should be placed in a warm, dry, well ventilated stable; the skin is to receive attention by frequent rubbings and the body should be well blanketed and the legs bandaged. Water pure and given in stall quantities; the food should be light and easily digested. As to medicine give first a light dose of castor oil, 66 THE HORSE. about one-half pint to which add two ounces of laudanum. The veget- able and mineral astringents may also be given. Starch injections con- taining laudanum often afford great relief. Strength should be kept up by milk punches, eggs, beef tea, oat-meal gruel, etc. In spite of the best of care arid treatment, dysentery proves fatal oftener than it comes to a successful ending. Inflammation of the Bowels or Enteritis. This is an inflam- mation of the mucous membrane lining the bowels. ‘This inflammation may extend and effect the muscular and also the serous coats. The dis- ease is rare unless it is caused by irritants or corrosive poisons, or follow- ing invagination or twisting of the bowels. How to Know Enteritis. Fever symptoms mark, from the out- set, all attacks. The lining of nose, mouth, and eyes are congested and reddened, the mouth is hot and dry, respirations are increased, pulse is hard and rapid, temperature is raised to 103° or 105°. Colicky pains are continuous. Horse keeps moving; paws; lies down carefully; and will often turn himself upon the back, remaining in that position for some time; thirsty, and asa rule the bowels are sluggish or inactive, but when due to irritant foods or medicine purging may be present. The inflammatory pulse; position of horse when down; coldness of ears and legs; high temperature; continuous pain, which is increased upon pressure, will enable the careful observer to safely diagnose a case of inflammation of the bowels. What to Do. Rely principally upon opium internally. Give one to two drams of powdered opium every three or four hours. One dram extract of belladonna should be added to the above doses of opium. Calomel in one dram doses to be given twice a day is recommended. Do not as arule give purgatives or enemas; and keep the bowels as quiet as possible. Hot blankets applied to the belly and counter-irritants to abdomen are useful. Give linseed tea, oatmeal gruel, and starch water. Avoid solid food, especially if hard dry and indigestible. If when the inflammation has subsided, the bowels do not act, encourage action by walking the horse and give injections into the rectum. Should these fail then give oil. Apoplexy of the Large Bowels. By some called muco-enteri- tis. This is much more common and most rapidly fatal of the bowel diseases. It is most common in heavy draught horses. It seems to be induced by the same causes that produce enteritis. Post-mortem ex- amination reveals extensive clotting of blood between the mucous and DISEASES OF THE DIGESTIVE ORGANS. 67 muscular coats of the large bowels; and thickened walls sometimes two or three inches in thickness. Symptoms. There is arapid and very weak pulse; profuse perspi- ration; severe and persistent pain, labored respiration, and a paleness of the mucous membrane of the anus. A peculiar, anxious expression ex- ists that, when once seen is always remembered to denote this disease. Toward the last the horse sighs, breathes loudly, staggers and pitches about, and dies in a state of delirium. ‘They rarely live more than ten or twelve hours, and often die inside of six. What to Do. The case has usually advanced so far, before noticed ‘that treatment is of no avail. The best common remedy is white-oak bark tea given in large and frequent doses. Tannic acid, one dram or fluid extract of ergot, one ounce is more desircble if at hand, and should be given every half-hour till four or five doses have been administered. Apply blankets to body, wrung out of Hor water, in which turpentine has been sprinkled; mustard water should be applied with sharp rub- bing to the legs. Peritonitis. This is an inflammation of the membrane lining the cavity and covering the viscera contained in the cavity below or back of the diaphragm, and known as the abdominal cavity. Peritonitis is often caused by injuries to the abdomen such as wounds, blows, kicks, and is still more common following the operation of castration. Symptoms. ‘This disease is usually preceded by a chill; the animal does not care to move, and if forced to do so, moves with a stiff or sore gait; paws with front feet and may strike belly with hind ones; lies down very carefully; stands most of the time; walks uneasily about. Generally constipated. Pressure on belly, causes sharp pain, and the horse will usually bite, strike, or kick at you if so used; the body is tucked up; and the feet, legs, and ears are cold. Temperature reaches 102° to 104°. ‘The pulse is almost enough in itself to determine the disease; it is quickened, beating seventy to ninety times a minute, and HARD and WIRY. What to Do. Treat similiar to enteritis. Powdered opium one or two drams, with calomel, one-half dram, should be given every two, three, or four hours. These constitute our main dependence in this dis- ease. Extensive mustard plasters or even mild blisters over the belly are very beneficial. NEVER give purgatives during the disease. Should it be necessary to move the bowels it may be done by gentle enemas, This is seldom necessary. 68 THE HORSE DISEASES OF THE LIVER. Horse Has No Gall Bladder. ‘The liver in the horse is rarely the seat of disease. There is a difference in the anatomical arrangement of the liver in the horse from that of man. It isa very common thing to hear some local ‘‘horse-doctor’”’ say that a horse ‘‘has disease of his gall bladder.’’ Truly a little learning is a dangerous thing, and this local ‘‘horse doctor’’ thus unwittingly exposes his ignorance, as the horse has no such organ. Diseases of the liver in horses are very obscure and generally remain unnoticed till death. There are a few symptoms when present, that should make us examine the liver care- fully. These are yellowness of the lining of the mouth, nose and eyes; and the condition of the dung, it being light in color and pasty. Inflammation of the Liver. This disease is technically known as hepatitis, and may assume an acute or chronic form. Symptoms. The distinguishing characteristics are dullness; evi- dence of internal pain, but not of a severe type; constipated and clay colored dung balls; scanty and high colored urine; and general fever symptoms. Lies down on left side; looks towards the right side; which upon close inspection will be found to be enlarged over the posterior ribs, (see location of liver in manikin) where pain is manifested if pres- sure is used. The symptoms of this trouble are very obscure, especially the chronic form, and even with the experienced veterinarian it is mere ‘“guess-work.’’ What to Do. Give first one ounce of Barbadoes aloes or some other physic. Apply a large blister to the right side, extending from a little back of the girth backward to the last rib, and about fifteen inches wide, midway between the middle and back of belly. Four to six quarts of blood may be drawn from the jugular vein, (see location of same on manikin) if taken in the early stages of the disease. After physic operates, saline medicines to act on the liver should be given. One ounce doses of saltpeter or muriate of ammonia, three or four times a day are beneficial. Feed the horse sparingly and principally on bran mashes. If recovery takes place, which is somewhat doubtful, give the animal regular exercise and light food. Jaundice, the Yellows or Icterus. This is the result of the bile being absorbed into the blood. It is not a disease, but asymptom of dis- order of the liver, or a plugging of the bile duct. The nose, lips and eyes will be yellowish instead of the pale pink color of health; the urine is DISEASES OF THE DIGESTIVE ORGANS. 69 saffron-colored; the excrement dirty gray in color; and generally consti- pation is present. What to Do. Endeavor to get rid of the excess of bile in the sys- tem, and this is best accomplished by giving purgatives that act on th- liver. Calomel, two drams; with aloes, seven drams should be iven. Glauber salts in handful doses, once or twice a day for a week is also cf- fective May-apple (podophylin), rhubarb, castor oil, and other cathar- tics that act upon the first or small bowels, may be given. Avoid hard, dry, bulky foods and see that the bowels are kept open. Gall-Stones, or Bilary Calculi. These are rarely found in the horse, but occasionally they occupy the hepatic ducts, giving rise to jaundice and colicky pains. There are no symptoms by which gall stones can be positively determined; but if a horse has repeated symp- toms of wind colic, accompanied with violent pains, and that during or following these attacks there is evidence of jaundice, a good guess is that the animal has gall-stones. There is not much that can be done except to give medicine to overcome pain, and trust that these formations may pass out of the ducts into the bowels, where they will not occasion any trouble, on account of their small size. INTESTINAL WORMS. Description of the Common Kinds. Although there are sev- eral kinds of worms found in the intestines of horses, it will be sufficient to refer to three or four of the most common ones. Weak and debilita- ted and young horses are most frequently afflicted. Lumbricoid. This isa worm four to twelve inches in length, al- though some have been seen over thirty inches long. In form it is much like the common earth-worm (fish-worm). ‘These worms are white or reddish in color, and vary in thickness from a wheat straw toa lady’s finger, being thickest at the middle and growing. smaller toward both ends. They are found singly and in groups, and live chiefly in the small intestines. Pin-Worm. This is avery common variety of worm and they are found mostly in the large intestines. They are semi-transparent; thread-like in form; and measure from one to two inches in length. Tape-worm. ‘This is a white, flat, thin, broad, jointed worm. The head is found at the smaller end of the worm. ‘Tape-worms of the’ horse sometimes measure from twenty to thirty feet in length. 70 THE HORSE. Symptoms of Intestinal Worms. Slight colicky pains at times are noticed or there may be only switching of the tail ; frequent passages of manure; slight straining ; itching of the anus ; and rubbing of the tail or rump against the stall or fence. The horse will be in poor con- dition; does not shed his coat; is hide-bound and pot-bellied ; the ap- petite is depraved—licking the walls ; biting the wood-work of the stalls ; licking parts of his body ; eating the ground ; and very fond of salt. The bowels are irregular, constipated, then diarrhea being noticed. Some place much dependence on the itching of the upper lip, as shown by the horse frequently turning it up and rubbing it upon the wall or stall. The one symptom, that should always be looked for, and one that will not deceive, is seeing the animal pass the worms in the excrement. How to Expel Worms. Remedies to destroy worms are most effective if given after a long fast, and then followed by a physic to carry off the worms. ‘The best worm medicines are santonine, turpen- tine, tartar-emetic, infusion of tobacco, and bitter tonics. ‘To destroy tape-worms, areca nut, male-fern, and pumpkin seeds are best. If the long round worms are being passed, give twice daily, for three or four days, a drench composed of turpentine, one ounce, and linseed oil, two or three ounces, to be followed on the fourth day by one ounce Barbadoes aloes. If pia-worms are seen, use injections into the rectum, of infusions of tobacco or infusion of quassia chips one-half pound to a gallon of water, once or twice daily for a few days, and follow by a physic. Remem- ber intestinal worms are mostly seen in horses that are in poor condition; and an important part of our treatment is to improve the appetite and powers of digestion. This is done by giving the vegetable tonics. One-half ounce of Peruvian bark, gentian, or quassia is to be given in the food twice a day. Unless the system is toned up, the worms will rapidly accumulate again, even though they may all seem to have been expelled by the worm medicine. Note. — The following powders are very effectual in removing intestinal worms. After giving twelve of these powders as directed, give with the last dose one ounce ot turpentine and four ounces of linseed oil. 1 ounce Ferri. Sulphate. 1 ounce Tartar Emetic, lL ounce Carbo. Lig, 2 ounces Areca Nut. Mix and divide into twelve powders, and give one night and morning. THE HORSE. 71 CLASSIFICATION OF THE CAUSES THAT PRODUCE THE VARIOUS KINDS OF COLIC. Whenever a iorse presents symptoms of abdominal pain (pawing, lying down, rolling, etc.) it has been the custom from time immemorial to call it colic. Asa great number of different diseased conditions in the abdominal cavity cause such symptoms the treatment should there- fore be varied. Many of these diseases of course cannot be clearly differentiated during life, although we are able to notice characteristics which are in a measure peculiar to certain diseased conditions which enable us to make a positive diagnosis. The statistics show that ten to twenty per cent. of horses affected with colic die, and that forty per cent. of the deaths of horses are due to this trouble. Certain medical compounds have been put upon the market as specifics for colic. This is what makes the treatment of colic unsatisfactory and increases the mortality. The classification of the causes of colic is as follows: 1st. Food colic. (a) Over feeding colic. (b) Colic due to damaged or improperly prepared food. (c) Starvation colic. 2d. Colic caused by obstruction to the gut. (a) Colic due to impaction of dried, woody food in the large in- testine of adult horses. The retained uncomium or the in- gested straw and hay of the foal. (b) Mechanical obstructions, such as twisted gut, intussusception rupture, and tumours. 3d. Colic due to paralysis of the intestine. 4th. Colic due to plugging of the blood vessels of the intestines. (Thrombosis and embolism). 5th. Nervous colic, due to exposure, fatigue and other causes. (Spas- modic colic). 6th. Colic due to worms. 7th. Colic due to foreign bodies in the intestines, such as stones ‘calculi), sand or dirt. The chief danger is the accumulation of gas from which relief should 72 THE HORSE. be given promptly and practically as possible, for the following reasons: 1st. To avoid rupture of the stomach, intestine, and diaphragm. 2d. To prevent suffocation. 3d. To prevent the effect of the absorption of gases. 4th. To permit healthy intestinal movement and prevent paralysis. 5th. To relieve pain. 6th. To prevent intestinal displacement. The most prompt and safe way to remove gaseous distention is to use trochar and canula, and plunge this into the highest part of the right flank. This of course should be done by a skillful veterinarian. SHIRE MARE, “BLOSSOM II." (G0LE FROPEDTY OP THE EARL OF ALLESMERR WOBSLEY RAL MANONESTER, BRED BY JOUN HOPPER NORTASIDR WEITTCRSEA CHAMPION MARE AT SHIRE HORSE SHOW, LONDON. 1888 CHAPTER V. RESPIRATORY ORGANS. Their Diseases and How to Cure Them. DESCRIPTION OF ORGANS OF THORACIC CAVITY, DISEASES OF THE NOS- TRILS, THE NASAL CHAMBERS, THE SINUSES, THE PHARYNX, THE LARYNX, THE WIND-PIPE, THE BRONCHI, THE BRONCHIAL TUBES, AIR-CELLS, PLEURA, AND DIAPHRAGM. ESPIRATORY organs are those that are used for, or aid in breathing. Some of the organs are used almost entirely in the process of breathing, while others serve a double function. The taking or drawing inof the air into the lungs is called inspiration. The side walls and front of the chest move upward and outward forming a vacuum and the air rushes in to fill the cavity. The sending of air out of thelungs is called expiration. This is ordinarily accomplished by the weight of the chest, which sinks down, displacing the air. Description of the Respiratory Organs. The organs aid- ing in respiration nay be classed as follows: NOSTRILS—the nasal openings, the place where the skin gradually changes to mucous membrane; NASAL CHAMBERS—the cavities through which the air passes to the head. These chambers are completely separated, the right from the left, by partitions of cartilage; SINUSES—the compartments which communicate with the nasal chambers and are lined with a continuation of the same membrane; 74 THE HORSE. PHARYNX—the back part of the mouth and above the first rings of the gullet. It is common to the functions of respiration and digestion; LARYNX—the complicated structure situated at the top of the wind- pipe, and just back of the root of the tongue. It may be considered a box which opens into and is continuous with the wind-pipe: WIND-PIPE OR TRACHEA—the air tube consisting of rings of cartilage which extends downward from the larynx to opposite the fourth or fifth dorsal vertebra; BRONCHI—the two parts into which the wind pipe divides. The one going to the right lung is called the right bronchus, the one to the left lung is the left bronchus; BRONCHIAL TUBES—the division of the bronchi which penetrate and carry air to all parts of the lungs; AIR-CELLS—the small recesses at the end of the bronchial tubes. ‘These are separated from each other by a delicate membrane, between the layers of which lies the plexus formed by the pulmonary artery. The blood is thus exposed to the air on two surfaces; LUNGS.—the bronchial tubes, the air-cells and plexus together make up what is commonly called the lungs. There are two divisions, one on the right and the other on the left; PLEURA—the thin double membrane that surrounds the lungs. One layer of this membrane is attached to the lungs, the other to the chest wall. This membrane secretes a fluid to lubricate their: surfaces as they move one upon another; DIAPHRAGM.—the muscular division which separates the heart, lungs, and large blood vessels from the stomach, liver, and intestines. It is the muscle of inspiration. Causes of Diseases of Respiratory Organs. These organs are more liable to disease than the organs connected with any other functions of the body, and as nearly all are the results of carelessness it is well to know and study causes. In the spring and fall when anima's are changing coats, there is a tendency to contract disease, and care should be taken at these periods to prevent other exciting causes. Avoid badly ventilated stables. Avoid taking horse from pasture and putting in too warm a stable. Avoid cold, close, damp stables as well as hot, close, and foul ones. Avoid changing from a hot to a cold stable. DISEASES OF THE RESPIRATORY ORGANS. 75 Avoid stables not well ventilated or not well cleaned. Avoid allowing an overheated horse to dry by letting the hair dry by evaporation. Rub the horse dry. Avoid letting a horse (especially if warm or covered with sweat) stand in a draught. Walk the horse till cool. Avoid prolonged or fast work, when animal is out of condition. Avoid leaving horses, that have been out in cold rains, to dry by evaporation. Rub them dry. Avoid leaving on horse blankets that have become moist from the sweating animal. ‘Take them off and put on dry ones. DISEASES IN THE HEAD. Catarrh or Cold in the Head. Catarrh meansa discharge of fluid from the mucous membrane. Catarrh is at first a congestion fol- lowed by inflammation of the mucous membrane lining the nasal cay- ities. It usually extends into the sinuses of the head, and sometimes to the membranes of the larnyx and pharynx, causing sore throat. The nasal duct which leads from the eyes to the nose is lined with the same membrane, and often the congestion and inflammation extends to the eyes as shown by their redness and flowing of tears. Symptoms. ‘The mucous membrane is at the beginning of the at- tack, dry and congested; much deeper pinkish-red or red than natural; then a watery discharge makes its appearance; the eyes may become af- fected, and tears flow on the cheeks. ‘The animal has some fever which may be easily detected by placing the finger in the mouth, as the feel- ing of heat coming to the finger will be greater than the natural; the animal may be dull; frequently emitting a sort of sneezing snort, but does not cough unless the throat is affected; very often forces air through his nostrils as if he was ‘‘blowing his nose.’’ A few days after the attack the discharge changes from a watery to a mucilaginous state, and is of a yellowish-white color. Notre.—To become quite expert in ascertaining the changes of temperature in the horse, it is only necessary to place the finger often in the mouths known to be healthy. How to Cure. ‘his disease is not serious, but if left to go its own way, it may run into a dangerous complication and should receive prompt attention. Have the horse inhale steam about fifteen minutes at a time, four or five times a day, as suggested under MANAGEMENT 76 THE HORSE. AND CARE. Pay particular attention tothe diet. Feed bran mashes, scalded oats, linseed gruel, and grass if in season. If constipation ap- pears, relieve the animal by injections (enemas ) of warm water into the rectum, three or four times a day. But under no circumstances give physic. To simple cases the above is all that is necessary, but if appetite is gone and the animal appears dull, give three times a day three ounces of the solution of acetate of ammonia and two drams of powdered chlor- ate of potash, diluted with a pint of water. When the inflammatory symptoms subside and the appetite does not return give two ounces each of the tincture of gentian and spirits of nitrous etherin a pint of water as a drench, every night and morning for several days. If after ten days the discharge continues, give one dram of powdered sulphate of iron three times a day. Chronic Catarrh. This is an inflammation of some part of the membrane affected by a common cold which has become persistent. The sinuses of the head are the usual seats of the trouble, and it is mani- fested by a more or less continuous discharge of a thick, white or yellowish-white matter from one or both nostrils. Symptoms. The long-continued discharge just mentioned will in- variably indicate the disease. Exercise great caution in examining these cases to distinguish them from glanders. This disease is neither dangerous nor contagious, although at times it is dificult to cure. The discharge may be irregular, quite large quantities being discharged at times, while at others scarcely any. Treatment. The animal should have nutritive food and regular light exercise. ‘The food should be placed in a box on the ground, and the hay where the head must be lowered to eat it. For eight days give one of the following powders night and morning; sulphate of iron, three ounces; powdered nux vomica, one ounce; mix and make into sixteen powders. Then for the next eight days, give night and morning one of the following: sulphate of copper, four ounces; powdered gentian, six ounces; mix and divide into sixteen powders. After this give one dram of iodide of potassium dissolved in a pail of drinking water, one hour before each meal. A blister over the face is often of much benefit. The ordinary fly blister plaster of the drug store mixed with one-third its weight of lard is very efficient. As a disinfectant sprinkle chloride of lime about the stall, and a small quantity may be placed in the manger under the hay. DISEASES OP THE RESPIRATORY ORGANS. 77 Inflammation of the Pharynx. In the back part of the pharynx is the canal through which the food and water pass to the stomach. Inflammation of the pharynx is a complication of other diseases, viz: in- fluenza, strangles, etc., and is probably more or less complicated with inflammation of the larynx. ‘The treatment is the same as for inflamma- tion of the larynx, which is next described. Laryngitis or Sore Throat. The mucous membrane lining the larynx is so highly sensitive that the smallest particle of food, which happens to drop into it will cause it to contract and violent coughing en- suses, which is continued until the foreign matter is ejected. Inflamma- tion of the larynx is a serious and sometimes fatal disease and as before stated, is usually complicated with inflammation of the pharynx, con- stituting what is generally known as ‘‘sore throat.’’ Symptoms. A cough is first noticed followed by the difficulty in swallowing. In many cases the difficulty in swallowing is so great that the water, and occasionally the food, is returned through the nose. The mouth is hot and saliva dribbles from it. The glands between the lower jaw bones and below the ears may be swollen. Pressure on the larynx induces a violent fit of coughing. The head is more or less ‘poked out;’’ membrane in the nose becomes red; discharge from nos- trils soon appears. As the disease advances, the breathing may assumea more or less noisy character; sometimes a rasping snore is given with each breath; and the breathing becomes hurried. How to Cure Sore Throat. In all cases steam the nostrils as advised for ‘‘cold in the head’’ or catarrh. In bad cases keep up the steaming for hours, or until relief is gained. Have a fresh bucketful of boiling water every fifteen or twenty minutes. In each bucketful of water put a tablespoonful of oil of turpentine, which will be carried along with the steam to the affected parts. In mild cases, steaming the nostrils every two hours will suffice. The body should be blanketed, and bandages applied to the legs. The feed should consist of soft food, such as, bran mashes, scalded oats, linseed gruel, and grass if in season. Fresh water should be before the animal all the time. Constipation (if it shows itself) must be relieved by injections of warm water three or four times every twenty-four hours. A liniment made of olive oil, two ounces; solution of ammonia, one ounce; and tincture of cantharides, one ounce; should be thoroughly rubbed-in, about the throat from ear to ear, and about six inches down 78 THE HORSE. over the windpipe and in the space between the lower jaws. Apply this liniment once a day for two or three days. If the animal can swallow without much difficulty, give the following as a drench, to be repeated every six hours: fluid extract hyoscyamus, one dram; powdered chlorate of potash, two drams; molasses, two ounces. Should great difficulty be experienced in breathing, do not attempt to give drenches, but persevere in steaming the nostrils, and dissolve two ounces of chlorate of potash in every gallon of water given. Even if this is not swallowed and returned through the nose it will be of bene- fit as a gargle to the pharynx. If breathing begins to be loud, relief is sometimes afforded by giving as a drench two ounces of jaborandi in half a pint of water. If this benefits, repeat the dose five hours after the first. This will cause a free flow of saliva from the mouth within a half hour. Roaring This is caused by an obstruction to the free passage of the air in some parts of the respiratory tract. This is really a symptom of some ailment and not a disease of itself. ‘There are many causes that may induce temporary, intermitting or permanent noisy breathing; but in nine out of every ten cases of chronic roaring, the cause is paralysis of the muscles of the larynx. A skilled veterinarian who is able to de- termine the cause of the trouble, may be able to benefit, but the result is doubtful. Norg.—An animal that isa roarer should never be used to breed from, no matter how valuable the stock. ‘This taint is transmittible, and the offspring is born with a predisposition to this trouble. High Blowing. This is a noisy breathing that is decidedly a nasal sound, and must not be confounded with ‘‘roaring.’? Tbe sound is pro- duced by the action of the nostrils. This is a habit and not an un- soundness. In “‘roaring’’ when the animal is put to severe exertion the sound increases, in ‘“‘high blowing’’ the sound ceases. Whistling. This is one of the sounds made by a ‘‘roarer’’ and therefore needs no further notice, except to state that this sound may be made during an attack of severe ‘‘sore throat’’ and will pass away with the disease that causes it. Thick Wind. This is another term which ls applied to a disease, which is only a symptom. The great majority of horses called ‘‘thick winded’’ belong either to the‘‘roarers’’ or have the ‘‘heaves.’’? Occa- sionally a mare heavy with foal, or horses excessively fat are affected DISEASES OF THE RESPIRATORY ORGANS, 79 with heavy breathing that may be caled ‘“‘thick wind.’’ In the one nature will cure; while in the other there is needed a light diet that will lessen the fat, and plenty of exercise. Guttural Pouches. There are two sacks not included in the organs of respiration, that are near the pharynx and larynx. They are peculiar to solipeds and their use is unknown. In health they contain air, but sometimes pus collects in them, causing considerable interference with respiration, Symptoms. Swelling on the side below the ear and an intermittent discharge of matter from one or both nostrils, especially if head is low- ered. The swelling is soft, and if pressed upon, matter will escape from the nose, if head is lowered. What to Do. Turn the animal out to grass or feed from the ground. In addition give the tonics recommended for ‘‘nasal gleet’’ or as it is more properly called chronic catarrh. DISEASES WITHIN THE CHEST. How to Detect the Diseases Within the Chest. It is nec- cessary to study the horse in health, as to pulse and respiration, to be able to distinguish the change so as to recognize disease. Study care- fully the MANIKIN OF THE HORSE, soas to be abie to locate tke organs. Where to Take the Pulse. By this is meant the beating of the arteries which correspond in number and character to the beating of the heart. The artery usually selected for ‘‘taking the pulse’ is the submaxillary artery where it winds around the lower jaw-bone. On the inner side of the jaw-bone the artery may be readily felt and to “take the pulse’’ should be pressed against the bone. The number of beats in a minute; the regularity or irregularity; the strength or feeble- ness; and other peculiarities may be easily noted. ; Number of Pulse Beats per Minute. In the healthy horse the average number of beats in a minute is about forty. But in different horses will vary from thirty-five to forty-five. In the low-breed large lazy horse it will not be more than thirty-five, while in the highly- bred nervous animal it may reach forty-five. Work and excitement increase the number of pulsations. If the pulse of a horse be taken while standing quietly in the stable, it will be less frequent than when at pasture 80 THE HORSE. Peculiarities of the Pulse. A little study of the following will aid much in the determination of the various peculiarities of the pulse. If the pulse beats fifty-five or more times in a minute while the horse is is at rest, it is an evidence that fever is present. FREQUENT PULSE—is one that beats an increased number of times in a minute. INFREQUENT PULSE—is the reverse. QUICK PULSE has reference to the time occupied by each separate pulse. The beat may strike the finger either quickly or slowly. The pulse may beat forty quick pulsations in a minute, or forty slow ones. INTERMITTING PULSE—is one in which a beat is occasionally omitted. The beat which is omitted may come at the end of some given number of pulsations, when it is called regularly intermittent. LARGE PULSE—is one that seems to feel fuller and seems to strike the finger over a larger space than usual. SMALL PULSE—means the opposite. FEEBLE PULSE—is one in which the artery is easily pressed down and conveys the idea of emptiness. HARD PULSE—“is one that causes the feeling of hardness or resis- tance. The artery feeling full and the pulse beating with force; DOUBLE PULSE—is one in which the beat seems to give two rapid beats at once. The pulse may include the character of two or more of the foregoing classes. ‘Thus a horse may have a quick, intermitting, feeble pulse, etc. Temperature. The temperature of the healthy horse is slightly above that of man, ranging from 994° to 1014%4° F. The average is about 100° F. High surrounding temperature and exercise as well as digestion will increase the animal temperature. The most accurate way of taking temperature is by introducing a self-registering thermometer into the rectum. ‘The thermometer should remain in three or four min- utes before it is removed. Respiration. The character of breathing is much changed by dis- ease. These peculiar characteristics are very essential in determining the location and nature of a disease. Respirations Per Minute. In health, standing quiet, the horse breathes from twelve to fifteen times a minute; work or excitemeut in- creases the number. DISEASES OF THE RESPIRATORY ORGANS. 8r Kinds of Respiration. he following terms are used in explain- ing the various characteristic breathings. QUICK BREATHING—tefers to an increased number of respira- tions per minute, which may be due to exercise or disease. DIFFICULT BREATHING—is always the result of something ab- nornal, and it is often a perfect guide to the trouble. STERTORIOUS BREATHING—is not to be confounded with diffi- cult breathing. It is more of a snore-like breathing, and is due to a re- laxation of the palate, and not to disease of this part. It is generally associated with brain disease, when the consequent derangement of the nervous functions causes the relaxation of the soft palate. ABDOMINAL BREATHING—is when the ribs are kept nearly stationary, and the abdominal muscles assist in breathing to a greater extent than is natural. The ‘‘belly’’ is seen to work like a bellows. In pleurisy, owing to the pain caused by moving the ribs, abdominal breathing is always present. THORACIC BREATHING—is the opposite of abdominal breathing, that is the ribs rise and fall more than usual, while the abdomen re- mains fixed. This is due to abdominal pains, such as peritonitis, etc. IRREGULAR BREATHING—is shown to good advantage in heaves, and often in acute diseases during their critical stage. Secretions. During the first days of an inflammatory disease no- tice carefully the secretions. In a common cold, there is first dryness, then watery discharge, followed by thick mucus. In pleurisy the membranes are at first dry, which can be easily determined by putting the ear against the chest over the affected part and there will be heard the dry rubbing sound, like two pieces of paper rubbing one against the other. Cough. The surface being congested there is usually an effort as if to remove some source of irritation in the respiratory track. The DRY COUGH is heard during the first stages of a disease of the respiratory organs. In pleurisy the cough is a dry one, and the animal tries to suppress it. The MOIST COUGH is heard when the secretions have been re-es- tablished. Cough is but a symptom—the effect of a disease. Roaring, heaves, pleurisy, and pneumonia have each a cough peculiar to the affection. Detecting Disease by Sound. Auscultation is the term ap- plied to the detecting. of diseases of the organs within the chest by 82 THE HORSE. listening to the sounds. Generally the ear is placed directly against the part but occassionally an instrument called the stethoscope is used. The ear is best for horses. First, get accustomed to the sounds in a healthy horse, which can be done by practice only. Then more patience and practice with your sick animals and you will be able to distinguish signs of disease and their indications. Percussion. ‘his term in the practice of medicine means striking some part cf tue body to determine the condition of the internal organs. If the wall of a cavity is struck the sound is easily distinguished from that emitted when a solid substance is knocked npon. This method of examination requires practice with the healthy as well as with the un- healthy animal. ‘ Bronchitis. This is an inflammation of the bronchial tubes. The mucous membrane lining the tubes may alone be affected or it may ex- tend to the whole structure. When confined to the largest tubes it is less serious than when the smaller ones are affected. Symptoms. The animal appears dull; appetite wholly or partially lost; head hangs; the breathing is much quickened; the cough, at first dry, and having somewhat the character of a ‘‘barking cough’’ is suc- ceeded in afew days by a moist rattling cough; the mouth is hot; the visible membranes in the nose are red; the pulse frequent, hard, and quick in the first stages, but as disease advances becomes smaller and more frequent. Ina few days a whitish discharge from the nostrils, which may be tinged with blood may make its appearance. ‘The ribs rise and fall more than is usual, which proves the animal has not the pleurisy. The horse persists in standing throughout the attack. Urine decreased in quantity and darker in color than usual. Bronchitis affecting the smaller tubes is one of the most fatal diseases, while that of the larger is never serious. It is an extremely difficult thing for the non-expert to discriminate between the two forms, and also he will have difficulty in distinguishing between bronchitis and pneu- monia. Treatment. Put animal in well ventilated box-stall. Cover body with blanket. Hand rub legs till warm, then apply flannel band- ages from hoof to knees and hocks. If the legs cannot be made warm by rubbing apply liniment recommended for ‘‘sore-throat.’? Rub in thoroughly and then put on bandages. Rub the same liniment over side of chest, and that part of the side occupied by the lungs as indi- cated by the MANIKIN OF THE HORSE. Repeat application to DISEASES OF THE RESPIRATORY ORGANS. 83 the chest in about five days. If applied oftener it will be apt to irritate the animal too much and make him restless. Compel animal to inhale steam. In each gallon of water put a table- spoonful of oil of turpentine. In serious cases give steam every hour, and in any case the oftener it is done the greater will be the benefits. Three times a day, give as a drench; solution of acetate of ammonia, three ounces; spirits of nitrous ether, two ounces; bicarbonate of po- tassium, one-hadf ounce; water one pint. Care must be used in drench- ing. If it makes animal worse, don’t persist, but give instead one-half ounce of bicarbonate of potassium in every bucketful of water the ani- mal will drink. Keep cold water before him all the time. If the horse is prostrated and has no appetite, give tne following drench: spirits of nitrous ether, two ounces; rectified spirits, three ounces; water, one pint. Repeat dose every four or five hours, if it ap- pears to benefit. If the horse is hard to drench give the following ball: pulverized car- bonate of ammonia, three drams; linseed meal and molasses sufficient to make the whole into a stiff mass; wrap it with a small piece of tissue paper and it is ready to give. This ball may be repeated every four or five hours. Do not let this ball break in the mouth as it will make the mouth sore, and prevent the animal from eating. If constipated give enemas of warm water. Do not bleed the animal. When the symptoms have abated and nothing remains of the disease except the cough and a white discharge from the nostrils, all medicines except the following tonic treatment should be discontinued. Give the following mixture: pulverized sulphate of iron, three ounces; powdered gentian, eight ounces; mix well together and divide into sixteen pow- ders. Give a powder every night and morning mixed with bran and oats if the animal will eat it, or shaken with about a pint of water and administered as a drench. If cough remains for so long a time as to lead you to think it will be- come chronic, say three or four weeks after the horse is apparently well, apply the liniment above recommended to the throat and well over the wind-pipe and breast. Also give one dram of iodide of potassium dis- solved in a bucketful of drinking water, one hour before each meal for’ two or three weeks if necessary. Chronic Bronchitis. This is due to same causes as the acute- form, or may follow it. Chronic bronchitis may change into the acute form by a very slight cause. Its course is slower, less severe, and not’ 84 THE HORSE. accompanied with as much fever as acute. The general symptoms are the same and the non-expert is apt to say, ‘“‘the horse has a touch of bronchitis;’’ but as the animal does not improve he at last is forced to commence treatment. What to Do. Do not work the animal. Rest is necessary if a cure is desired. Give the same general treatment prescribed for the acute form. If the animal is not benefitted to a marked degree, give the following: powdered nux vomica, three ounces; powdered arsenic, seventy grains; powdered sulphate of copper, three ounces; mix to- gether and divide into thirty-six powders. Give a powder mixed with bran and oats every night and morning. If all other treatment fails, try the following: hydrocyanic acid (Sheller’s strength), twenty minims; nitrate of potassium, three drams; bicarbonate of soda, one ounce; water, one pint. This dose should be given every morning and evening for one or two weeks, if necessary. Congestion of the Lungs. Inflammation of the lungs is always preceded by congestion, or we may say congestion is the first stage of inflammation. Congestion is an excess of blood in the parts affected. Congestion may exist as an independent affection, and is generally caused by over-exertion when the animal is not in a fit condition to un- dergo more than moderate exercise. Symptoms. If the animal is taken ill on the road, he will slacken his pace, show a desire to stop, and may stagger and even fall. The nostrils will be dilated; the flanks heaving; the countenance haggard; and every other appearance ot suffocation will be evident. If the symptoms do not appear until returned to the stable the horse will be found with his head down; legs spread out; eyes wildly staring or dull and sunken; breathing rapid and almost gasping; body covered with sweat, which may soon dry, leaving legs and ears cold; breathing both thoracic and abdominal; the chest rises and falls and the flanks are powerfully brought into action. If pulse can be felt at all, it will be very frequent, often reaching one hundred or more a minute. ‘The ani- mal may tremble all over, and if the ear is placed against the side of chest, a loud murmur or perhaps a fine crackling sound will be heard. Treatment. If taken on the road, do not attempt to return to the stables. If in the stable give plenty of pure air. If weather is warm, open air is best. Let the animal stand still; he has all he can do to get enough pure air to sustain life. If possible set three or four men at DISEASES OF THE RESPIRATORY ORGANS. 85 2 work, rubbing body and legs, until the skin feels natural. Do not let the men stop short of a good vigorous rubbing. Rub over the cold part of the legs the same liniment used in bronchi- tis, but do not put it on the chest. The medicines needed are diffusible stimulants. Give two ounces each of spirits of nitrous ether and alcohol, diluted with a pint of water, every hour till relief is afforded. But if it takes too long to get this medicine, give a quarter of a pint of whiskey ina pint of water every hour, or the same quantity of brandy. An ounce of tincture of arnica in a pint of water every hour for four or five hours, may be used, if the last can not be obtained. If none of these remedies are at hand give two ounces of oil of turpen- tine, shaken with a half pint of milk. This will be of benefit till the better remedies can be obtained. A tablespoonful of aqua ammonia (hartshorn), diluted with a pint of water, and given every hour, may be of service in saving life when nothing else can be obtained in time. Great care must be used after the animal has commenced to improve, as this disease may be followed by pneumonia. Provide comfortable stall, avoid draughts, and keep the animal blanketed and legs bandaged. Apoplexy of the Lungs. This is another term for congestion of the lungs. When there is bleeding from the lungs during their con- gested state it is called PULMONARY APOPLEXY. Pneumonia or Lung Fever. This is an inflammation of the lungs, in which the air cells are the parts principally affected, although the minute branches of the bronchial tubes are always inflamed to a greater or less degree. Symptoms. The first symptoms of pneumonia when a primary dis- ease, is a chill, more or less prolonged, which in most cases is overlook- ed, or not seen. The breathing becomes more rapid; the animal hangs his head and has a very dull appearance; the mouth is hot and has a sticky feeling to the touch; the heat conveyed to the finger, indicates fever; if thermometer is used, the temperature will be found to reach 103° F., or higher; pulse beating from seventy to one hundred or more per minute; character of pulse varies very much, it may be hard or feeble, large or small, intermitting, etc. There is usually a dry cough from the beginning, which changes in character as the disease alvances; if pleurisy sets in the cough will be peculiar to that affection, that is, cut short in the endeavor to stop it. The appetite is usually poor, but the desire for water is greater, par- 86 THE HORSE. ticularly at the beginning of the disease. The legs are cold; the bowels more or less constipated; the passages being covered with a slimy mucus. Treatment. The general treatment is the same as for bronchitis. Give animal plenty of fresh, cold drinking water. Blanket the body. Rub legs till warm, then put on bandages from hoof up as far as they are cold. If hand-rubbing does not make legs warm, put on liniment recommended inthe treatment of bronchitis. At least twice a day the bandages should be removed and the legs well rubbed, and bandages again applied. Over the affected side apply the liniment recommended for ‘‘sore- throat,’’ and if necessary it may be repeated after five days. Do not use mustard. Do not clip off the hair and rub in powerful blisters. Hot applications to the side of the chest are beneficial if the articles necessary to use to apply them are handy. Do not useaconite. Do not give physic. If the animal is constipated, relieve it by an allowance of laxative food, such as scalded oats, bran and linseed mashes, and grass in season. If this does not relieve, give an injection of about a quart of warm water three or four times a day. If the animal has no desire for this food, let him eat anything that he cares for. Make hay tea by pouring boiling water over good hay into a bucket and allow to cool. Remove the hay and allow to drink as much as desired. If the animal will drink milk, it may be supported for days, by giving three or four gallons of sweet milk, into which may be stirred three or four fresh eggs to each gallon of milk. The following drench should be administered every six hours: solution of acetate of ammonia, three ounces; spirits of nitrous ether, one ounce; bicarbonate of potassium, three drams; water, one pint. Use great care in drenching. If the horse gets very much weakened, use stimulants of a more pro- nounced character, as follows: rectified spirits, three ounces; spirits of nitrous ether, two ounces; water, one pint. If benefit is derived repeat every four or five hours. Or give six ounces of whiskey with a pint of water instead. When animal improves and the fever has left, give the tonic medicines advised in bronchitis. Pleurisy. This isan inflammation of the double membrane (the pleura) which surrounds the lungs. In health this membrane moves upon itself with every breath, and secretes a fluid (called serum) for DISEASES OF THE RESPIRATORY ORGANS. 87 lubricating its walls. This keeps the surfaces always moist and smooth. In pleurisy the membrane first becomes congested, the surfaces getting dry and roughened. ‘This dry condition is followed after a time by the membrane throwing off more fluid than usual. ‘This fluid accumulates in the space between the lungs and the walls of the chest, causing ‘“‘dropsy of the chest’’ or hydro-thorax. Symptoms. This disease usually commences witha chill, which is often overlooked. ‘The animal does not move or turn around. When compelled to do so, he grunts or groans with pain. The animal stands stiff; the ribs are fixed, that is has abdominal breathing; both fore-feet and elbows may be turned out; the animal may be restless, and act asif he had a slight colic; may lie down, but does not remain long. After the membrane begins to secrete the excessive fluid mentioned above, a furrow will be found running along the lower part of the chest, from behind the elbow to the flank; this is due to the endeavor of the animal to keep the ribs fixed in as near as possible an unmovable position. Every movement of the chest causes severe pain, therefore the cough is peculiar; it is short and comes as near no cough as the ani- mal can make it. The breathing is hurried, the mouth hot, the temperature being raised from 102° or 103” to 105° F. The usual fever symptoms, such as cos- tiveness, and scanty and dark-colored urine are present. The pulse is frequent, perhaps seventy or more a minute, and is hard and wiry. If the ribs are struck with the knuckles, there will be some spot, more or less extended where the blows cause more or less pain. The animal may grunt or groan every time it is struck. By listening at the side you will come to a place where there will be distinguished a sound very much like that produced by rubbing two pieces of coarse paper to- gether. In many cases the friction is so great that it can be felt by placing the hand over the diseased part. When the dry state is suc- ceeded by the secretion of fluid, the sound disappears. If the quantity of the fluid is large, the large amount retards the pro- cess of absorption to a great extent. In some cases the symptoms manifest a serious state. The pulse becomes more frequent; the breath- ing more hurried and labored; flanks work like bellows; the nostrils flap; the eyes stare wildly; countenance expresses anxiety; and general signs of breaking up are plain. After a short time swellings appear un- der the chest and belly and down thelegs. Pleurisy is most often con- fined to the right side. 88 THE HORSE. Treatment. This is quite similar to the treatment of bronchitis and pneumonia, but as pleurisy is so apt to be complicated with either of these diseases the treatment may be considered as merely an addition to the treatment for these ailinents. The kot applications applied to the chest as suggested in the treatment for pneumonia are very beneficial, and should be kept up wile the symptoms show the animal to be in pain. The liniment should not be applied till the symptoms of pain, have somewhat subsided, then rub it well over the affected part. Apply every other day till several applications have been made. From the beginning the following drench should be given every six hours: solution of the acetate of ammonia, three ounces; spirits of nitrous ether, one ounce; bi- carbonate of potassium three drams; water one pint. If the pain seems very severe in the beginning of the attack, causing the animal to lie down or paw; give the following drench; tincture of opium, two ounces; raw linseed oil, twelve ounces. If the pain con- tinues the opium may be repeated after four hours. Should the case after ten or twelve days not progress favorably, it is due to the excessive fluid not being absorbed; hence effort must be made to excite absorption. Apply the liniment over the lower part of both sides and the bottom of the chest, and give the following drench three times a day, for a week, if it appears necessary and of benefit; tincture of perchloride of iron, one ounce; tincture of gentian, two ounces; water one pint. Also give one dram of iodide of potassium dissolved in the drinking water one hour before feeding, every night and morning for a week or two. If tapping of the chest is neccessary it should be done, before the strength of the animal is lowered beyond recovery, and it is best to call a veterinary to perform the operation. Pleuro-Pneumonia. When an animal is affected with pleurisy and pneumonia combined, which is often the case, it is called PLEURO- PNEUMONIA. At the beginning only one of the affections may be present, but the other soon follows. The symptoms of both diseases are present, but usually that of pleurisy, is the most prominent. The course of treatment is the same as recommended for pneumonia and_pleurisy when they occur repeatedly. Thensymptoms of both diseases are pres- ent, but usually that of pleurisy is the most prominent. ‘The course of treatment is the same as recommended for pneumonia and pleurisy when they occur separately. The symptoms will be the guide whether it is DISEASES OF THE RESPIRATORY ORGANS. 89 best to give laudanum and oil for the pain if the pleurisy is very severe. Do not give it unless absolutely necessary to relieve the pain. Broncho-Pleuro-Pneumonia. This is the name given when bronchitis is present with pleurisy and pneumonia. It is not a common occurrence It is impossible for a person not an expert to determine this combination with certainty, as the apparent symptoms are the same a pleuro-pneumonia. Broncho-Pneumonia. This is a common complication. Either the bronchitis or the pneumonia may be first. The treatment is the same as for the diseases when separate. Heaves—Broken Wind—Asthma. The popular mind is much confused with regard to the nature of ‘‘heaves.’’ Many horsemen apply this name to all ailments when the breathing is noisy or difficult. This disease is thought to be due to spasm of the small circular muscles that surround the bronchial tubes. This continued affection leads to a paralysis of these small circular muscles, and is thought to be one of the first stages of the disease. There is good foundation for the opinion of some emminent veterinarians, that the cause of this trouble is due to a lesion of the pneumo-gastric nerve. This trouble is al- ways, connected with some disorder of the digestive organs. How to Know the Heaves. Nearly every experienced horse- man is able to detect this disease. The cough which is present in this disease is peculiar; the sound is short, and something like a grunt. When the air is drawn in, it appears to be done in the same manner as in health, but when expelled, the lungs having lost most of their power of contracting, the great change in breathing is then very plainly seen. The abdominal muscles are brought into play; those about the flank contract, then pause a moment, then complete the act of contracting, thus making a double bellows-like jerky motion with every breath. A wheezing noise is heard when the animal is exerted, and the same can be heard toa less degree when the animal is at rest, if the ear is put against the chest. Indigestion is always present; the animal has a depraved appetite, often eating dirt and soiled bedding instead of the clean food in the manger; they often overload the stomach; the animal often gets ‘‘pot- bellied;’’ wind of an offensive odor often passes: attacks of colic may occur and they are usually fatal; the bowels are often loose; and the animal can not perform much work, as the muscles are soft. Never let a day go by without giving light exercise. go THE HORSE. What to Do. When this disease is once settled there is no cure for it. ‘The treatment must be such as to rélieve the symptoms, which are ready to return any time, if the animal overloads the stomach or is given food of a bad quality. Proper attention to the food is necessary. Clover hay and bulky food generally have much to do with the cause of the disease, and therefore should be omitted. Moldy or dusty hay, or fodder of any kind is very injurious. Hay should be fed only once a day, and then only in small quantities. Always water before feeding; never directly after; slightly dampen hay, fodder, and oats to allay the dust; do not work the animal under an hour after a meal; turning to pasture gives relief; carrots, potatoes, or turnips chopped fine and mix- ed with the oatsor corn makes a good diet. Arsenic is the only medicine that is considered by the best authori- ties as of any value, and this only palliates the symptoms. Use the so- lution of arsenic in hydrochloric acid, which should be purchased at a drug-store because it isthen of uniform strength. Each ounce of this solution should contain about four and one-half grains of arsenic. For about two weeks, mix with the bran or oats three times a day, a table- spoonful of this solution; then for the next two weeks give the same dose only twice a day; then once a day for a month. If bowels are cos- tive, give one pint of raw linseed oil, once or twice a month. Medicine is only secondary; the food is of the greatest importance. Never breed from animals having the ‘‘heaves.’’ Nortre.—If buying a horse of one of the ‘‘smart’’ individuals, a care- ful examination should be made for the purpose of detecting the heaves. These ‘‘jockeys’’ by keeping the stomach and intestines empty, and giving depressing medicines, manage to hide the symptoms of heaves for a short time. To detect the heaves, give the horseall the water he will drink, and then have him ridden or driven up a hill, or on a heavy road. This will bring out the peculiar breathing, common to the heaves. The giving of arsenic to suppress the symptoms is one of their favorite tricks. Chronic Cough. A cough of this character may succeed acute disease of the respiratory organs, such as laryngitis, bronchitis, and pueumonia. It isa symptom and not a disease, therefore the proper’ treatment is to find the cause of the trouble and cure that disease if pos- sible. Chronic cough accompanies the ‘‘heaves,’’ chronic bronchitis, and chronic roaring. It is a symptom of chronic indigestion and worms. DISEASES OF THE RESPIRATORY ORGANS. gI Pleurodynia. A rheumatism of the intercostal muscles, (muscles between the ribs). The symptoms toa non-expert are similiar to pleu- risy. It is distinguished from pleurisy on account of lack of fever, cough, and friction sound is absent when the ear is applied over the lungs. The tieatment is the same as for rheumatism of the other parts. Wounds Penetrating the Walls of the Chest. It is well to calla veterinarian immediately as the treatment of wounds of this character require professional skill, and even that as soon as possible. Thumps or Spasm of the Diaphragm. This disease is often thought to be palpitation of the heart. While it is true ‘‘palpitation of the heart’’ is occasionally called thumps, yet the disease we here deal with is of a very different character. The diaphragm is the essential organ of respiration and the spasmodic or irregular contractions of it produce what is known as hiccoughs in man. Thumps in horses are identical with hiccoughs in man, although the peculiar noise is not made in the throat in all cases. This affection should be easily distinguished from palpitation of the heart. ‘The whole body is affected by the ‘‘jerky motion’ and it is not confined to the region of the heart. Place one hand over the heart and the other near the middle of the last rib, and the ‘‘jerky motion’’ will be felt under the last rib and will have no connection with the beating of the heart. What to Do. Since the trouble is produced by the same causes that bring on congestion of the lungs, the same remedies should be used that, have been recommended for that disease. If not relieved death usually results from congestion of the lungs, and it is often seen in connection with that disease. Rupture of the Diaphragm. Examinations of the bodies after death, show a great many cases of rupture of the diaphragm. It is the general opinion that this happens after death, and is caused by gases which arise as the result of the decomposing remains. It is possible to happen before death but there are no symptoms by which it can be de- termined. - CHAPTER VI. CIRCULATORY ORGANS. Their Diseases and How to Cure Them. DESCRIPTION OF THE HEART, ARTERIES, AND VEINS, INFLAMMATORY DISEASES, FUNCTIONAL AND ORGANIC DISEASES OF THE HEART, DIS- EASES OF THE ARTERIES, DISEASES OF THE VEINS, DISEASES OF THE LYMPHATIC SYSTEM. ONDERFUL as it seems with our present knowledge, it is only a few centuries ago that Harvey discovered the circulation of the blood. Since that time it has been discovered that their is still another system of circulation in the body intimately connected with the blood vessels. "That is known as the lymphatic or absorbent system and consists of a series of tubes which absorb and convey to the blood certain fluids. These tubes lead to sac-like structures called iym- phatic glands, through which these fluids pass on their way to the right lymphatic vein and thoracic duct. These lymphatic glands contain lymph which is on its way to the larger trunks undergoing a sort of fil- tration. The Heart. Nearly in the center of the chest isa hollow, cone shaped muscular organ called the heart. Its average weight is between six and seven pounds. It extends from near the third to the sixth rib, having the base of the cone near the third rib, and extending downward, backward, and toward the left side. It is suspended from the spine by the large blood-vessels and held in position by the sac in which it is con- 94 THE HORSE. tained being fastened to the breast-bone (sternum). ‘The sac in which the heart is contained is called the pericardium (peri=around, cardium =the heart). This is a membrane of a fibrous, dense nature, which is lined with a delicate serous membrane, of which there are two layers, the inner one closely fastened to the heart, the outer to the fibrous sac. There is a space between them in which is founda small amount of serum, which is secreted by this serous membrane for the purpose of lubricating the surfaces, which rub against each other every heart beat. How Divided. The heart is divided into four cavities, having two on the right side which contain the venous (blue) blood, and two on the left which contain the arterial (red) blood. It is so divided that the cavities on the right side have no communication with those on the left, but the two cavities on either side are connected by valves. The upper cavities are called AURICLES from their supposed resemblance to a dog’s ear. ‘The one on the upper right side is called the right auricle, the one on the left, the left auricle. The cavities at the lower part of the heart are called ventricles, taking the names right ventricle and left ventricle accord- ing to location. Action of Heart. The right side of the heart receives the dark blue blood from the VENA CAvA. It is received into the right auricle, where it passes through the TRICUSPID valve into the right ventricle. It is there forced out into the lungs through the pulmonary artery. The blood here gives up its CARBON-DIOXIDE, takes on OXYGEN, and re- turns to the left auricle, through the pulmonary vein. The blood, now of a bright scarlet hue, passes through the BICUSPID VALVES into the left ventricle, from which: it is forced out through the aorta into the arteries, by which it is distributed over all parts of the body. Movements of the Heart. When the heart closes to force out the blood, the movement is called sysToLE, and when expanding, DIASTOLE, There is a pause following such expansion. Hence the heart takes a rest after each beat. This amounts to several hours per day. Functions of Blood-vessels. The blood-vessels carry blood to and from the various parts of the body. ‘They are divided into three classes: THE ARTERIES AND ARTERIOLES, carrying blood from the heart; the CAPILLARIES, bring the blood into close relation with the tissues; and the VEINS, carrying the blood back to the heart. Arteries. These are hollow tubes carrying blood to the capillaries, which are situated in all parts of the body. ‘he arteries contain no DISEASES OF THE CIRCULATORY ORGANS. 95 valves, but consist of three layers. The inside one forms a smooth sur- face for the blood to pass over, the outside one an elastic layer, while be- tween them is a muscular layer which regulates the amount of blood re- ceived by each part. This coat is necessary, as it is manifest that the heart cannot regulate the supply of blood sent to each portion of the body. Capillaries. The capillaries are interposed between the ends of the arteries and the beginning of the veins and not only carry blood, but, owing to the construction of their walls, they enable the blood to come in intimate relations with the tissues. By the blood thus coming so in- timately connected with the tissue, it is enabled to deposit nourishment, give up its oxygen, and take in return what has been chemically united. They take from the blood the nourishment, and give it off as a fluid known as LyMpH, whose function is to irrigate and nourish. Veins. In most veins are valves which flap back against the side as the blood flows onward toward the heart. Thus the blood cannot be forced backward by any cause. The walls of veins are not so thick, strong, or elastic as are those of the arteries—the strength and elasticity not being needed, as the blood simply flows through the veins and is not forced through as it is in the arteries. The blood is aided in its course through the veins by a contraction of the voluntary muscles, indirect action of the valves in the veins, and by suction produced by the move- ments of the thorax in breathing. Pulse. Atcertain portions of the body arteries come near the sur- face. If the finger be placed over these blood-vessels a beating can be felt. ‘These beats are caused by the heart forcing the blood into the arteries. Each pulse represents a heart beat. Character of the Pulse. This has been described under the chapter DISEASES OF THE CIRCULATORY ORGANS. INFLAMMATORY DISEASES OF THE HEART. General Structures. There are three parts to the heart that are liable to inflammation. From the names of these structures the names of the diseases are derived. Myocardium is the muscular structure of the heart; endocardium is the serous membrane lining the heart; and peri- cardium is the sac surrounding the heart. Myocarditis. An inflammation of the muscular structure of the heart. This is rarely detected without being connected with inflamma- tion of the endocardium or pericardium. The causes are over-exertion 96 THE HORSE. or heart strain, influenza, rheumatism, etc. Since it is not recognized unless involved with one or the other of the above mentioned diseases, and the symptoms and treatment are so closely connected with those diseases, it will suffice to describe them under those ailments. Endocarditis. This is an inflammation of the serous membrane lining the heart. It is often found in general rheumatism which involves the serous membrane. Symptoms. The most prominent symptoms which characterize this disease are a staggering gait with painful movement of the fore-legs; a constant irregularity of the heart’s action; but there will be equality of strength regardless of the rapidity of the beating of the heart. In the chronic form there is generally a persistent palpitation with irregularity of the rapidity of the heart beats. This disease may be ushered in by a chill, with sudden and marked rise in temperature. The pulse rapidly decreases in strength or may become irregular, while the heart beats more or less tumultuously. In early stages soft blowing sounds may be heard by placing the ear over the heart on the left side, which corres- pond in number and time to the heart’s beating. In nearly all cases there is partial suppression of the urine. In fatal cases death often occurs about the fourth or fifth day. What to Do. The most reliable medicine known to control the ir- ritability of the heart, is the tincture of digitalis in twenty-drop doses, repeated every hour. After the desired action upon the heart is obtained the dose may be repeated every two or three hours, or as the case re- quires. Fluid extract of convallaria majalis, in two-dram doses, will quiet the tumultuous action of the heart where digitalis fails. Avoid bleeding; cold applications around the chest or over the heart; blistering; and stimulating applications to the chest. Chlorate of potash, in two- dram doses given in drinking water every four hours for the first five or six days, and followed by the nitrate of potassium, in half-ounce doses for a week, or until the urine becomes very profuse. Where rheuma- tism is present give two-dram doses of salicylate of soda instead of the chlorate of potash. Iodide of potassium in one-dram or two-dram doses should be given early in the disease, and may be repeated two or three times a day for several weeks. Absolute rest and warm stabling, with comfortable clothing, are necessary. Pericarditis. This is an inflammation of the sac into which the heart is enclosed. It may be caused by cold and damp stabling, expos- DISEASES OF THE CIRCULATORY ORGANS. 97 ure and fatigue, from wounds caused by broken ribs, etc. It is usually associated with an attack of rheumatism, influenza or pleurisy. Symptoms. This disease shows itself abruptly by a brief stage of chills accompanied by evidence of pain in moving; a short painful cough, rapid and short breathing; and high temperature, with a rapid and hard pulse. The fever, with corresponding pulse, is highest in the evening and lowest in the morning. In the early stages the pulse is regular in beat; later the heart-beat becomes muffled, and may be doubled. By placing the ear against the left side of the chest behind the elbow a rasp- ing sound may be heard, corresponding in number to the heart-beat. Be- tween the second and fourth days this sound disappears and by striking on the surface over the heart, there will be found an increased dullness. In the acute form of this disease the animal may die in a few days, but in the chronic form the case progresses much more slowly. What to Do. ‘‘In acute or subacute pericarditis the tincture of digitalis and tincture of aconite root may be mixed, taking equal quan- tities, and give twenty to thirty drop doses every hour till the pulse and temperature become reduced. Bandages should be applied to the legs; if they are very cold, tincture of capsicum should be first applied; the body should be warmly clothed in blankets to promote perspiration. When the suffering from pain is very severe, two ounces of tincture of opium may be given once or twice a day; nitrate of potassa, half an ounce, in drink- ing water, every six hours; after the third day, iodide of potassa, in two- dram does, may be substituted. Hot packs to the chest in the early stages of the disease may give marked relief, or smart blisters may be applied to the sides of the chest with benefit. If the disease becomes chronic, iodide of iron and gentian to support the strength will be indi- cated, but the iodide of potassa, in one or two-drain doses, two or three times a day, must not be abandoned so long as there is an evidence of effusion or plastic exudate accumulating in the pericardial sac. Where the effusion is great and threatens the life of the patient, tapping, by an expert veterinarian, may save the animal.” FUNCTIONAL AND ORGANIC DISEASES OF HEART. Palpitation of the Heart. This is a tumultuous and usually an irregular beating of the heart. It may be caused by indigestion, sudden excitement, excessive speeding, etc. (See ‘‘Thumps’’). Study care- fully the difference in the symptoms of the two diseases. a 98 THE HORSE. Symptoms. The heart beats may be violent enough to jar the whole body, and often it may be heard quite a distance from the animal. The jar will correspond to the beating of the heart. This disease can usually be traced to the cause, which may be avoided or overcome in the future. Rest, a mild stimulant, or a dose or two of tincture of opium or tincture of digitalis will generally give relief. It must be regarded as a symp- tom when organic. Enlargement of the Heart. Hypertrophy of the heart, or car- diac enlargement frequently follows an increased demand for propelling power. Symptoms. In addition to the usual symptoms manifested in or- ganic diseases of the heart, there isa painful and heavy pulsation at each heart beat. ‘These pulsations are regular. When full andstrong at the jaw, there is a tendency to congestion of the capillary vessels, but if small and feeble an obstacle to the escape of blood may be suspected. Treatment. If the cause can be discovered and removed it should be done. Hydrocyanic acid in thirty drop doses twice a day, may re- lieve muscular irritability. Give general tonic, avoid overwork or ex- citement as well as bulky food. DISEASES OF THE ARTERIES. Inflammation of the Artery. ‘This disease is rarely observed in the horse as a primary disease. It may extend only to the inner coat or it may involve all of the layers of which there are three. Symptoms. There will be a painful swelling along the inflamed vessels, throbbing pulse, coldness of the parts fed by the inflamed artery. Treatment. Give one-dram doses of the carbonate of potassium mixed with four ounces of liquor acetate of ammonia, every six hours. Feed scalded bran enough to produce loosening of the bowels. Put on applications of hot water or hot hop infusions. DISEASES OF THE VEINS. Phlebitis. Inflammation of veins may be confined to a limited por- tion of a vein or it may attack the vein for a long distance, occasionally extending from a limb or foot to the heart. DISEASES OF THE CIRCULATORY ORGANS. 99 Symptoms vary according to the extent and the severity of the in- flammation. ‘The vein is usually swollen and thickened so as to resem- ble an artery. What to Do. Apply a smart blister over the affected part; open any abscess that may be formed; give animal complete rest; and keep bowels loose with bran mashes. When fever runs high give half-ounce doses of nitrate of potassium, in the drinking water, which may be changed in two or three days for dram doses of the iodide of potassium. Give animal carbonate of ammonia, one dram, and powdered gentian three drams every six hours should the animal show great weakness. Varicose Veins. Otherwise named varix, and dilatation of veins. This disease is the result of weakening of the coats of the veins from in- flammatory diseases. The vein which lies near the surface on the inside of the hock-joint is sometimes affected. This is sometimes due to the pressure of a spavin. It is occasionally seen in stallions as dilatation of the cord of the testicles. Piles or hemorrhoidal veins are occasionally met with, principally in horses which run at pasture. Treatment. Piles may often be reduced by astringent washes—tea made from white oak bark ora saturated solution of alum. Stallions having enlarged testicular chord should wear suspensory bags, when ex- ercised. DISEASES OF THE LYMPHATIC SYSTEM. Inflammation of the Lymphatic Structures. This inflamma- tion usually effects a hind-leg, very seldom a fore-leg. This application is sudden in its attack, exceedingly painful, accompanied by a high tem- perature, and great general disturbance. Symptoms. Usually commences with a chill, rise in temperature, and some uneasiness; in a short time it is followed by lameness in one leg and swelling on the inside of the thigh. The limb is very tender to the touch; the animal perspires; the breathing is accelerated; pulse hard and quick; and the temperature may reach 106° F. ‘The bowels become constipated; urine becomes scanty; symptoms on-the increase for about two days, then stationary for same time; the fever then lowers; swelling goes down and becomes less painful. ‘Theswelling seldom all leaves the leg; there is left behind a permanent enlargement, and attacks return occasionally. 100 THE HORSE. Elephantiasis. In severe cases the skin loses its hair in patches, the limb remains more or less enlarged due to a fibrous growth, which is known by the name of Elephantiasis. What to Do. Externally; bathe the leg every ten or fifteen minutes for six or eight hours with vinegar and water, equal parts, to which add two ounces of nitrate of potassium to each gallon of the mixture. At the end of the bathing; dry with woolen cloths and bathe with camphor- ated soap liniment. Internally; give tincture of digitalis and aconite root, equal parts of each, thirty drops every hour until the fever and pulse become reduced Half-ounce doses of nitrate of potassium in the drink- ing water every six hours; bran mashes; and complete rest. This treat- ment if used early in the attack very often brings about a remarkable change within twenty-four hours. DISEASES OF THE MUSCLES. Lameness of the shoulder, caused by violent muscular contraction in starting heavy loads, jumping, slipping on smooth, icy roads or barn floors, is of frequent occurrence. The external symptons are not usually very well marked, and errors often occur by mistaking this trouble for other affections. The lameness is not intermittent but continued. It is more marked when the bones are diseased together with the muscles. When the animal moves the shoulderblade (92) and the bone of the upper arm (77) are sometimes almost immovable, and when walking the entire mass of muscle is displaced by being dragged forward without either flexion or extention. In many cases there is a certain amount of swell- ing, and in other cases instead there is muscular atrophy. This is com- monly called ‘‘Sweenied.’’ It is not itself a cause of shoulder lameness, although this condition may interfere with perfect action ‘‘Sweenied’’ shoulders are more often caused by diseases below the fetlock than to affections above the elbow. Give the animal plenty of vest. Warm wet blankets are of great service, and in addition put on camphor, belladonna, or liniments. Later it may be necessary to use the blistering compound on page 162, and finally, when necessity demands it, the firing iron and the seton. The great essential condition of cure, and the one that will help pre- vent a relapse, is vest, irrespective of any other prescriptions with which it may be associated. CHAPTER VII. THE NERVOUS SYSTEM. Its Diseases and How to Cure Them. DIVISIONS OF THE NERVOUS SYSTEM, FUNCTIONS OF THE VARIOUS PARTS, INFLAMMATION OF THE BRAIN OR ENCEPHALITIS, MAD STAG- GERS OF THE OLD WRITERS OR MENINGITIS, SUNSTROKE OR HEAT EXHAUSTION, SPASM OF THE THIGH, INFLAMMATION OF THE MEM- BRANES SURROUNDING THE SPINAL CORD, LOCK-JAW, HYDROPHOBIA, ELECTRIC SHOCK, ETC. ITUATED within the body having the brain as a center is a won- derfully complex system of nerves, which is almost entirely controlled by the will of the animal. Besides this there is another set, independent of this system, which regulates the beat- ing of the heart, and all other movements over which the will has but little or no control. ‘The latter consists of numerous small centers, call- ed ganglia, extending in two great chains from the head to the tail, on each side of the back-bone, and closely connected with the other system by a peculiar communication. ‘They are usually considered and defined as follows: Divisions of the Nervous System. There are two divisions of the nervous system, the CEREBRO-SPINAL or that presiding over animal life, and the sympathetic, that regulating organic life. 102 THE HORSE. Structure. It is composed chiefly of two structures; the gray, originating impulses and receiving impressions, and the white, conduct- ing impressions. Cerebro-spinal System. This consists of the BRAIN, SPINAL GANGLIA, CRANIAL NERVES, and SPINAL NERVES. Membrane Surrounding the Brain. The membrane which lines the skull constituting an interior periosteum is called the DuRA MATER; beneath this is a delicate membrane called the ARACHNoID, and still beneath this is another membrane, which even dips into the con- volutions of the underlying brain. ‘This is called the pia mater. These three divisions taken together are called the meninges. Divisions of the Brain. The divisions of the brain are the CEREBRUM, CEREBELLUM, PONS VAROLII and MEDULLA OBLONGATA. Functions of the Cerebrum. ‘‘The cerebral hemispheres are the organs by which perception is carried on and from which motor im- pulses are given out. They contain the organ of the will; they possess memory, or the means of retaining impressions of sensible influences.’’ (HARE. ) Functions of the Cerebellum. ‘It is absolutely insensible to irritation and may be cut away without any signs of pain; its removal from the body or destruction by disease is generally unaccompanied by loss or disorder of sensibility. Animals from which it is removed can see, hear, and feel pain to all appearance as perfectly as before. It governs the coordination of movements, and while irritation of the cere- bellum produces no movements at all, remarkable results are produced by removing part of its substance. As portion after portion of it is cut away the animal gradually loses the power of springing, walking, stand- ing, or preserving its equilibrium. If laid upon its back it cannot re- cover its normal posture but struggles to get up, and if a blow is threat- ened tries to avoid it, but fails to do so. According to Gowers, the middle lobe of thecerebellum governs equilibrium by means of afferent fibres from the semi-circular canals and the ocular muscles and also the muscles of the legs.’”’ (HARE). Function of the Pons Varolii. ‘It contains a large number of nerve fibres both transverse and longitudinal, and is a conductor of im- pressions from one part of the spinal axis to another. Concerning its functions as a nerve centre little or nothing is certainly known.” (Hare). DISEASES OF THE NERVOUS SYSTEM. 103 Medulla Oblongata. This is the prolongation of the spinal cord, extending from the spinal cord to the pons (bridge) Varolii. This part of the brain is very large in the horse; it is pyramidal in shape, the narrowest part joining the cord. Spinal Cord. This occupies the cavity of the backbone. It ex- tends from the brain down to the last vertebra. It is protected by the same membranes as the brain, but in the brain the gray matter is on the outside, while in the spinal cord the gray matter is within. It is divided into halves and these again subdivided into two parts. It contains two nerves of motion and two of feeling. The nerves of motion are the ones which carry the orders of the mind to the different organs, while the nerves of feeling bring back impressions which they receive. Spinal Nerves. These are forty-two or forty-three in number, arise each by two roots, a superior or sensory and an inferior or motor. The nerves originating from the brain are twenty-four in number, and arranged in pairs, which are named first, second, third, etc., counting from before backward. ‘They also receive special names, according to their functions, or the parts to which they are distributed, viz: 1. Olfactory. 5. Trifacial. g. Glosso-Pharyngeal. 2. Optic. 6. Abducens. 10. Pneumogastric. 3. Oculo-motor. 7. Facial. 11. Spinal-Accessory. 4. Pathetic. 8. Auditory. 12. Hypoglossal. INFLAMMATION OF THE BRAIN TISSUES AND ITS MEMBRANES. Encephalitis. Inflammation of the brain is caused by exposure to extreme heat or cold; excessive continued excitement; direct injuries to the brain; and sometimes appears as a result of influenza, pyeemia, and poisons that directly affect the brain matter. Symptoms. Acute inflammation may commence by an increased sensibility to noises, with more or less nervous excitability, contraction of the pupil of the eyes, and a quick hard pulse. These symptoms are not always present in acute attacks. There will follow twitching of the muscles, convulsive or spasmodic movements, eyes wide open with shortness of sight. ‘The animal becomes afraid to have his head handled. Convulsions and delirium will develop, with inability of muscular con- 104 THE HORSE. trol, often followed by stupor and coma. When the membranes are much implicated convulsions and delirium with violence may be expect- ed, but where the brain substance is principally affected, stupor and coma will be the most prominent symptoms. When the brain sub- stances is principally affected the pulse will be soft or depressed with sometimes a dilation of pupils and deep, slow, stertorous breathing; but if the membranes are implicated the pulse will be quick and hard. The animal may become very violent early in the disease, and by rearing up, striking with the fore-feet or falling over do himself great injury, but usually the animal maintains the standing position, propping himself against the manger, until he falls from inability of muscular control. Treatment. See treatment under head ‘‘General Treatment for In- flammation of the Various Brain Structures.’’ Meningitis or Mad Staggers of the Old Writers. This is an inflammation of the cerebral envelopes. It is caused by excess of heat or cold, wounds of the skull and its contents, rheumatism, influ- enza, rupture of the blood-vessels of the membrane surrounding the brain. Symptoms. In an attack of the acute form the symptoms are often very violent. The animal has violent pains in the head which is indi- cated by the animal flying back in the halter; plunging forward or run- ning ahead, without regard to any obstructions; the pulse is very rapid; the breathing accelerated or panting; the pupils of the eyes contracted; the muscles of the body quivering. These symptoms may develop in a few minutes or in a few hours. If the animal does not get relief, spasms or stiffness of the muscles along one or both sides of the neck or back will become evident; the head will be held up higher than usual; the eye-balls will be drawn back in their sockets; the eye-lids twitch; convulsions and furious delirium will soon appear, followed by coma (insensibility) and death. During the whole course of the disease the least noise will seem to bring on violent paroxysms (spasms), which are very marked during the disease. Between these paroxysms there are quiet moments in which the animal seems dull and drowsy. ‘The urine is frequently forced out in spurts and great efforts are made to effect passage of the bowels. In the SUB-ACUTE form the symptoms develop more slowly and are less marked by violence. In such attacks the animal may suffer for a week or longer and ultimately recover. DISEASES OF THE NERVOUS SYSTEM. 105 In meningitis the temperature varies from 103° to 107° F., according to the severity of the disease. Do not confound the violent symptoms of this disease with hydropho- bia (rabies). In hydrophobia the animal directs his violence toward some object or upon himself; but in this desire there is only the evidence of severe pain, in the head. Meningitis may be distinguished from en- cephalitis and cerebritis by there not being any marked symptoms of paralysis of local parts or of coma till near the approach of death. Teatment. See treatment under head ‘‘General Treatment for In. flammation of the Various Brain Structures.’’ Cerebritis. Inflammation of the brain substance has many causes. Those that produce either of the two last, together with cystic and cal- careous tumors, thrombi, urzemic poisoning, etc. Symptoms. When notin connection with other diseases this disease is seldom recognized during life. It is always confined to some specific portion of the brain, and the symptoms vary according to the part affect- ed. The treatment as given below will be all that can be usually done. As it would not be recognized except by an expert it is unnecessary to give a list of the symptoms. General Treatment for Inflammation of the Various Brain Structures. ‘‘When the animal is found in the first stages of the disease, where the animal is unnaturally excited or has stupor with high temperature and quickened pulse bleed from the jugular vein. Especially in acute meningitis, bleeding is imperatively demanded. The finger should be kept on the pulse, and the blood allowed to flow until there is a marked fluttering or softening of the pulse. As soon as the animal recovers somewhat from the shock of the bleeding, the following medicine should be made into a ball or dissolved ina pint of warm water and be given at one dose: barbadoes aloes, seven drams; calomel, two drams; powdered ginger, one dram; tincture of aconite, twenty drops. The animal should be placed in a cool, dark place, as free from noise as possible, and cloths wrung out of hot water placed on his head. Re- new frequently for twelve hours. When the animal becomes thirsty half an ounce of saltpeter may be dissolved in his drinking water every six hours. Inject warm water into the rectum to aid the action of the physic. Norwood’s tincture of veratrum viride, in twenty drop doses, should be given every hour, and one dram of solid extract of belladonna every four hours, until the symptoms become modified and the pulse regular and full. 106 THE HORSE. If this treatment fails to give relief the disease will pass into the ad- vanced stages, or if the animal has been neglected in the early stages the treatment must be supplanted with the hypodermic injection of er- gotin, in five grain doses, dissolved in a dram of water every six hours. The limbs may be poulticed above the fetlocks with mustard. Cold water or ice-bags should now take the place of the hot water cloths on the head. Warm blanketing, to promote perspiration, to be used in all cases in which there is not much perspiration. “Tf the disease becomes chronic—encephalitis or meningitis—use alter- atives and tonics, with such other treatment as special symptoms may demand. Iodide of potassium in two dram doses should be given twice a day, and one dram of calomel once a day, to induce absorption. Tonics, in the form of iodide of iron in dram doses, to which is added two drams of powdered hydrastis, may be given every six or eight hours, as soon as the active fever has abated. In all cases, after the disappearance of the acute symptoms, blisters (cantharides ointment) should be applied behind the poll. When paralytic effects remain after the disappearance of all other symptoms, sulphate of strychnia in two grain doses, in combination with the other tonics, should be given twice a day, and be continued until it produces muscular twitching. Many of the recoveries will, however, under the most active and early treatment, be but partial, and in all cases the animals become predisposed to subse- quent attacks. A long period of time should be allowed to pass before the animal is exposed to severe work or great heat. When the disease depends upon mechanical injuries they have to be treated and all causes of irritation to the brain removed. If it is due to stable miasma, uremic poisoning, pyzemia, influenza, rheumatism, toxic agents, etc., they should receive prompt attention for their removal or mitigation.’’ Sunstroke or Heat Exhaustion. The term ‘‘sunstroke’’ is ap- plied to troubles caused by exposure to the direct ray’s of the sun for hours, when the animal has not received proper care in feeding, water- ing and rest; and also when caused by the action of great heat, com- bined with other disturbing elements such as dryness of the air, and an unusual accumulation of electricity. Symptoms. Generally comes on suddenly. The animal stops, drops his head; begins to stagger; and soon falls to the ground insensi- ble. The breathing is stertorious; the pulse is slow and irregular; cold sweats cover the body; and the animal dies without becoming con- scious. DISEASES OF THE NERVOUS SYSTEM. 107 Previous to the other symptoms coming on the animal often requires urging for some time; the perspiration is checked; the animal becomes weak in his gait; the breathing hurried or panting; the eyes watery and bloodshot; nostrils dilated and highly reddened, assuming a dark, purple color; the pulse rapid and weak; the heart bounding. What to Do. Apply ice or very cold water to the head and along the spine. Give six ounces of whiskey or half an ounce of carbonate of ammonia in a pint of water. Injections into the rectum of ginger tea, moderately strong, or weak ammonia water may benefit. Brisk friction of the limbs, using spirits of camphor when possible, will often yield good results. The stimulant should be repeated in one hour if the pulse has not become stronger and slower. If the animal is suffering from heat exhaustion instead of sunstroke use the same treatment, only use hot water on the cloths instead of cold. In either case as the animal gets better give as a tonic during con- valescence: sulphate of iron, one dram; gentian, three drams; red chincona bark, two drams; mix and give in the feed morning and even- ing. How to Prevent. In very hot weather, keep wet sponges or light sunshades on the head while at work, or sponge the head with cold water as often as possibie during the day. Do not over feed; water often; keep stables cool and well ventilated. If an animal seems weak and exhausted from work or disease, give tonics. Spasm of the Thigh or Cramp of the Hind Leg. Horses standing on sloping plank floors, or subject to severe exercise are liable to this disease. Symptoms. The leg becomes rigid, and efforts to bend it are unsuc- cessful; it is cold; there is not much pain manifested, unless efforts are made to change position of the leg. The cramp may be of short dura- tion, or it may continue for several days. This ‘‘cramp’’ is often taken for a dislocation of the stifle-joint. In dislocation, the foot is extended backward, and the horse being unable to advance it, drags the foot be- hind him. An examination of the joint will also show a change of form. What to Do. Rub the cramped muscles with liniment composed of soap liniment four parts and chloroform one part. Compulsory movement usually causes the muscles to relax very quickly. Therefore take animal out and force him to run or trot. Sometimes a single crack of the whip or a smart blow will cause relaxation. Should this fail, the 108 THE HORSE. liniment may be used along the inside of the thigh, and chloroform, ether, or laudanum given internally. One ounce chloral hydrate will relieve the spasm when given internally, but the cramp may return very quickly after the effect has passed off. Spinal Meningitis. This is an inflammation of the membranes surrounding the spinal cord. It may be the result of irritating proper- ties of blood poisons, exposure, all forms of injury to the spine, rheuma- tism, ete. Symptoms. May be introduced by a chill; a rise in temperature; general weakness; or shifting of the legs. Soon a painful, spasmodic twitching of the muscles set in, followed by a hardness of muscles along the back-bone, when the animal will move very stiffly and evince great pain in moving; evidences of paralysis develop; either holds the urine, or it runs away without effort; and marked fever at the beginning of the attack, together with spinal symptoms. This disease generally becomes seated and is then principally known by a paralysis back of the seat of the disease. The whole or only portions may be paralyzed. Treatment. Put along the spine, bags filled with broken ice, to be followed later by strong blisters. Control fever by giving twenty-drop doses every hour of Norwood’s tincture of veratrum viride, until the de- sired effect is obtained. One dram of the fluid extract of belladonna, to control pain and the flow of blood to the meninges may be given every five or six hours till the pupils of the eyes become much enlarged. If the pain is very severe inject hypodermically five grains’ of sulphate of morphine. Keep the animal as free from excitement as possible. If the urine is retained in the bladder it must be drawn off every six hours. In very severe attacks the animal dies in a few days. If the animal grows better give two-dram doses of iodide of potassium in the drinking water, morning and evening. Also once a day give one-dram of nux vomica and twice a day same dose of iodide of iron. Cerebro-Spinal-Meningitis. This disease is very apt to attack every animal in a stable, although it is conceded by good authority that it is neither contagious nor infectious. It seems to be connected in some way with the food or general surroundings. In many cases the disease has broken out in various localities, where portions of the same lot of oats, hay, and brewers grains have been fed. Special Precautions Necessary. If this disease breaks out ina stable, remove all the animals at once. Provide them with clean, well- ventilated, well drained stables elsewhere, and give each animal one- DISEASES OF THE NERVOUS SYSTEM. 109 dram or the extract or half an ounce of the tincture of belladonna, twice a day for several days as a preventive. Clean the old stable thoroughly from all matter, throw over it some chloride of lime, and give the stable a coat of whitewash in which four ounces of carbolic acid has been dissolved in every gallon. Let the stable dry thoroughly. Symptoms. There are three grades of attack into which the symptoms may be divided. FIRST GRADE. In the most rapidly fatal cases, the first indica- tions are usually a weak, staggering gait; part or total loss of power to swallow; eyesight is poor; muscles twitch and slight cramps may be noticed; soon followed by paralysis of the whole body; inability to stand; sometimes a delirium in which the animal goes through a series of movements as if trotting or running; the delirium becomes violent, and the animal may seriously bruise himself in his struggles, but a deep sleep usually renders him unconscious till he dies, which usually follows in from four to twenty-four hours, from the beginning of the first symptoms. ‘The pulse is variable during the disease; it may seem al- most gone at times; then very rapid and irregular; the breathings generally quick and catchy. When this severe and rapidly fatal form appears, it may not be possible to determine it from encephalitis, only from the fact of other animals in the same stable or neighborhood being similarly affected. SECOND GRADE. This is in not so severe a form as the last. The first noticable symptom is a difficulty in swallowing; a slowness in the chewing of the food; and a weakness which may be first noticed by a loss of strength of the tail, the animal being unable to switch it or offer any resistance if you raise it up over the croup. The pulse is generally a little slow; no evidence of pain; breathing unchanged; temperature little less than in health; bowels may be constipated. If the result will terminate favorable, there will be no change of symp- toms for two or three days, after which gradual improvement. But if the termination will be death, immediately following the stationary con- dition the animal may lose its power to swallow, and the weakness in gait becomes more and more noticable; then sleepiness or coma may ap- pear; the pulse depressed, slow and weak; stertorous breathing; unable to stand; and some rigidness of the spinal muscles or partial cramp of the neck. Death follows in such cases in from four to six days. THIRD GRADE. In this last or mildest form, the inability of voluntary control of the limbs becomes but little marked; the power of IIo THE HORSE. swallowing while lessened is never entirely lost; the animal has no fever, pain or unconscious movements. The animal will begin to im- prove about the fourth day and recover. When changes for the better take place the symptoms usually leave in the reverse order in which they came on, but local paralysis may re- main-for some time. Treatment. ‘‘In the worst class of cases treatment is very seldom successful, and it is dangerous to attempt to give medicine by the mouth because the animal cannot swallow. Cold shower baths may possibly induce revulsive action in connection with stimulants into the rectum, four to six ounces of whisky in two pints of milk; the breathing of ammonia vapor from a sponge wet with dilute aqua ammonia may bring the animal to consciousness. In the second class of cases the treatment recommended by Professor Large consists in giving a cathartic composed of one ounce of aloes and the giving of one to two drams of the solid extract of belladonna, alter- nated every three hours with thirty drops of tincture of aconite root, and the application of blisters to the neck, spine, and throat. When the animal is unable to swallow, one-fourth-grain doses of sulphate of atropia may be hypodermiically injected under the skin every four, six, or eight hours, as the case may demand. ‘The atropia is a heart stimu- lant, increases capillary circulation, and quiets pain and excitability. When the most prominent symptoms abate give such food as the animal may be able to eat; keep fresh, cool water constantly before him; sup- port him in slings if necessary; clean stabling and plenty of fresh air are of the utmost importance.”’ Lock-Jaw or Tetanus. ‘This disease is specially shown by spasms which affect the muscles of the face, neck, body, and limbs and all the muscles supplied by the cerebro-spinal nerves. Symptoms. ‘The first indication of this disease is difficulty in chew- ing and swallowing; an extention of the head; and a membrane called the haw,. protruding over the inner part of the eye. This haw will turn farther over the eye if the nose is lifted. The animal is not able to open the jaws to their full extent, and the effort to do so will produce spasms of the muscles of the jawand neck. The muscles of the neck and along the spine become rigid and the legs are moved as if they were stiff. The least noise throws the animal into increased spasm of all the affect- . ed muscles. The tail is usually raised and held without moving; the bowels constipated; the temperature and pulse not much changed. DISEASES OF THE NERVOUS SYSTEM. III These symptoms in an acute attack become rapidly worse till the muscles become hard—in a state of rigid spasm—with a tremble continuously running through them; cold sweat breaks out on the body; breathing becomes painful; jaws are set; eye-balls drawn back; lips drawn tightly over the teeth; nostrils enlarged; and the animal showing extreme agony till death comes. In the sub-acute cases the jaws are never entirely locked; the muscles are not so rigid; the nerves not so excitable. There is some stiffness of the neck or spine, which is shown when the animal is turning or mov- ing; the haw is turned over the eye-ball when the nose is lifted. All symptoms gradually increase for about ten days and then gradually di- minish under careful treatment, or otherwise they go on to the most severe type and end in death. Tetanus may be mistaken for spinal meningitis, but the peculiarity of the spasm-locked jaw; the peculiarity of spasms due to swallowing; the haw over the eye; and the eye-balls drawn back into the head should easily note the difference. Treatment. Put the animal ina dark box stall without bedding, as far away from other horses as possible; cover with sheet in fly time; keep every noise away from the animal. Give at once aloes, six to eight drams; mixed with solid extract of belladonna, two drams. Give in form of ball; but if the animal is too much excited or can not swallow, mix it with two ounces of olive oil and throw on the back of the tongue with asyringe. If the jaws are set, or nearly so, do not try to give medicine by the mouth. In such cases use hypodermic injection under the skin of one-quarter of a grain of atropia; and five grains of sulphate of morphia; dissolved in one dram of pure water. Repeat often enough to keep animal under its influence all the time. Good results may be obtained by injecting per rectum the fluid extract of belladonna and of cannabis indica, of each one dram, every four or six hours. ‘This may be diluted with a quart of milk. If un- able to swallow liquids give rectum injections of oatmeal gruel and milk. This will help sustain the strength of the animal. Good results may be obtained by putting woolen blankets over the upper part of the head and neck and the greater part of body, and keeping them wet with very warm water. Continue this for several hours at a time. Hydrophobia or Rabies. Thisis the result of a bite from a rabid animal—generally a dog or a cat. ‘The disease follows the bite in from three weeks to three months—very rarely in twelve or fourteen days. 112 THE HORSE. Prevention. When it is positively known that an animal has been bitten by a rabid animal, immediately, cauterize the wound with a red- hot iron. This may destroy the poison before it is taken up by the blood. Symptoms. The first evidences of the disease may be excitability and viciousness. The approach of a person, causes the animal to kick, strike, or bite at any object near him. "Often the animal will bite his own legs or sides, tearing the skin. ‘The eyes are staring and blood- shot; ears held up; and the head erect. In some cases the animal wiil continually rub and bite the wonnd caused by the rabid animal. ‘This symptom may precede all others. ‘The furious symptoms appear spas- modically; at other times the animal is quiet and may eat and drink, although swallowing becomes painful near the end. Rabies may be mistaken for lock-jaw. In that disease there is rigid- ness of the muscles of the jaws or stiffness of the neck or back very early in the attack, and the animal shows no signs of viciousness. Treatment. As soon as the nature of the disease is ascertained the animal should be killed. Electric Shock. Since electric wires are becoming so common, the accidents arising from coming in contact with them is of frequent occurence, and has the same effect upon the animal system as a shock of lightning. There are two degrees of electric shock; the one killing directly and the other producing temporary insensibility, from which re- covery is possible. In the latter case the animal is usually insensible; the respiration slow, labored or gasping; the pulse slow, feeble, and ir- regular; and the pupils dilated and not sensitive, or they may be con- tracted and sensitive. ‘The temperature is lowered. There may be a tendency to convulsions or spasms. ‘The predominating symptoms are extreme heart and respiratory depression. Treatment. Sulphate of atropia should be given hypodermically in one quarter grain doses every hour or every two hours until the heart beats are strengthened, the number and fullness of the breathing increased and consciousness returns. Stimulating injections into the rectum may also be useful in aiding the circulation; for this purpose whisky or ammonia may be used. CHAPTER VIII. THE URINARY ORGANS. Their Diseases and How to Cure Them. DIABETES INSIPIDUS, EXCESSIVE URINE, SACCHARINE DIABETES, GLY- COSURIA, BLOODY URINE, POISONING BY ALBUMINOIDS, ACUTE IN- FLAMMATION OF THE KIDNEYS, SPASM OF THE NECK OF THE BLAD- DER, INFLAMMATION OF THE BLADDER, URINARY CALCULI, ETC. HESE organs to a large extent are the sanitary scavengers and purifiers of the system. It is through their action that most of the products of normal cell-life are carried off. The body is a great chemical laboratory and within it is carried on wonderful changes, which renew the tissues of the body as well as destroy those that are worn out. These chemical changes produce many poisons that will cause disease if left within the body. To remove these poisons, with the aid of the skin, is the function of the urinary organs. The kidneys are the organs which separate from the blood the substance by which the nitrogen of the decomposed or worn out tissue is given off. This subtance is called UREA. Most of the other secretions of the body are useful in various ways, as the bile from the liver and the gastric fluid from the stomach are used in digestion, and the perspiration is a means of cooling the body by evaporation, but the secretion of the kidneys can- not be utilized in any other process and hence must be removed from the system. Kidneys. These glands are two in number, one lying on each side of the vertebrae just forward of the loins. The left kidney, weighing 114 THE HORSE. twenty-three ounces, is shaped like a French bean (SEE MANIKIN OF THE HORSE) and extends from the loins forward to beneath the heads of the last two ribs. The right kidney (SEE MANIKIN OF THE HORSE) is the shape of the heart of cards, and extends from the loins forward beneath the head of the last rib. Each kidney consists of these distinct parts : a. The external or vascular part, in which the blood-vessels form elaborate capillary network within the globe-like sac’s which form the beginnings of the secreting tubes. b. The internal part, made up in the main of the blood-vessels, lymph- atics, and nerves extending between the notch on the inner border of the kidney to and from the outer vascular portion, in which the secretion of urine is almost exclusively carried on. c. A large sac-like reservoir in the centre of the kidney into which all the urine tubes empty their secretions. From this reservoir there leads a tube, called the ureter, which carries off the urine to the bladder. There are two of these tubes, one from each of the kidneys, and they open by a valve-closed orifice into the roof the bladder just in front of the neck. Action. ‘The arteries which carry the blood to the kidneys are called RENAL arteries, and the veins which carry the blood from the kidneys to the large veins leading to the heart are called RENAL veins. The kid- neys do not act constantly but alternate in their action. ‘The blood passes into the kidneys through the arteries, it then reaches the capil- laries of the kidneys which have the power of removing the watery part of the blood containing urea. The blood is then taken up by the small veins and carried to the renal veins. Bladder. ‘This is a reservoir which receives the urine from the kid- neys through the arteries, and holds it until the distension is sufficient to cause its voluntary discharge. Circular muscular fibers surround the neck of the bladder which keep it closed, and looped muscles extending in all directions forward from the neck around the unopen end of the bladder empty it by contracting. A dilatable tube (urethra) extends from the neck of the bladder backward on the floor of the pelvis. Inthe male the urethra extends through the penis toits free end, where it opens through a conical papilla of a pink color. In the full grown female the urethra is nor far from an inch in length, and it is surrounded by the circular muscular fibers which closes the neck of the bladder. It opens directly in the middle line of the floor of the vulvas about four and one-half inches from its outside opening. DISEASES OF THE URINARY ORGANS. II5 Changes in the Urine. In health the urine of the horse is of a deep amber color and it has a strong odor. On a feed of grain and hay it may show a uniform transparency, while on grass there is an abundant white deposit of lime. There is scarcely an important organ of the body that can suffer derangement without its showing in the urinary system. Therefore, the condition and changes found in the urine, while _they may not mark a direct disorder of the urinary system, they serve as an indication of a disturbance of some organ, and these changes are often a great help in determining the character of a disease. ‘The action of the skin and the action of the urinary system are closely allied. In summer when there is profuse sweating, the quantity of urine is less- ened, but in winter when there is but a small quantity of liquid exhaled through the skin, the urine is increased in quantity. This action of the skin and kidneys usually balance and keep within the limits of health, but the quantity of urine may become so small that there is not enough liquid to properly hold in solution and éarry off the solids, and then crystalize and form stone and gravel. A disordered liver may produce an excess of biliary coloring-matter and stain the urine, or may cause an excess of acid (hippuric) and allied products which being less soluble than the normal product of tissue change (urea) favor the formation of stone. A disorder which causes a decrease in the functions of the lungs may eause an excess of acid (hippuric) and allied bodies, or of oxalic acid or sugar in the urine, which will irritate the kidneys even if they do not produce solid deposits in the urinary passages. A disease of the nervous system, especially those that affect the base of the brain and spinal cord, may induce a urinary disorder prominent among them are diabetes, albumenaria, and chylous urine. A disease that causes imperfect nutrition or a destruction of the bony tissues, causes a deposit of phosphates of lime and magnesia, in the urine. This may lead to the formation of stone and gravel. An extended inflammation or an acute fever will lessen the liquids of the urine, while tle solids (waste products) are increased, and the over- charged urine is irritating tothe urinary organs, or the waste products not being taken out by the action of the kidneys will poison the system. Feeding green vegetables covered with hoar-frost or furnishing an ex- cess of food rich in phosphates (wheat bran, beans, pease, vetches, len- tils, rape-cake, cotton-seed cake) or a privation of water which entails a concentrated condition and high density of the urine may irritate the 116 THE HORSE. kidneys. Exposure in cold rain or snow storms, cold draughts of air, and damp beds are liable to further disorder an already overworked or irritable kidney. Examination of the Urine. In some cases the changes of the urine are the only signs of disease that can be detected. Of these changes the following may be looked for : CoLor—White from deposits of salts of lime; brown or red from blood- clots or coloring matter; yellow or orange from bile or blood-pigment; pale from excess of water. In giving medicine remember santonin makes it red; senna and rhubarb, brown; tar and carbolic acid, green. DENsITy—The horse’s urine may be 1.030 to 1.050, but it may greatly exceed this in diabetes and may sink to 1.007 in diuresis. CHEMICAI, RE-ACTION—as ascertained by blue litmus or red test papers. The horse on vegetable diet has alakline urine turning red test papers blue, while in the sucking-colt and the horse fed on flesh or on his own tissues (in starvation or abstinence during disease) it is acid, turning blue litmus red. ORGANIC CONSTITUENTS—as when glairy from albumen coagulable by strong nitric acid and boiling, when charged with microscopic casts of the uriniferous tubes, with the eggs or bodies of worms, with sugar, blood, or bile. IN ITs SALTS—which may crystalize out spontaneously, or on boiling, or on the addition of chemical re-agents. Saccharine Diabetes or Glycosuria. ‘This disease is also called Diabetes Mellitus and Inosuria. This is primarily a disease of the nerv- ous system or liver rather than of the kidneys, but since the most prom- inent symptom is the sweet urine it may be treated under this head. Its CAUSES are varied, but are chiefly disorder of the liver and disorder of the brain. One of the most prominent functions of the liver is the formation of glycogen, a principle allied to grape-sugar, and the passing of it into the blood for further oxidation. This is a constant function of the liver, but in health the resulting sugar is chemically destroyed in the circulation and does not appear in the urine. On the contrary, when the supply of oxygen is defective, as in certain cases of the lungs, the whole of the sugar does not undergo combustion and the excess is given off by the kidneys. Also in certain forms of enlarged liver the amount of sugar produced is more than can be disposed off in the natural way, and it appears in the urine. A temporary sweetness of the urine often occurs after a hearty meal on starchy food, but this is due altogether to DISEASES OF THE URINARY ORGANS. 117 the superabundant supply of the sugar-forming food, and last for a few hours only, and has no significance. In many cases of fatal glycosuria the liver is found to be enlarged, or at least congested, and it is found that the disorder can be produced experimentally by agencies which produce an increased circulation through the liver. Certain chemical poisons also cause saccharine urine, notably woorara, strychnia, morphia, phosphoric acid, alcohol, ether, chloroform, quinia, ammonia, and arsenic. Symptoms. ‘These are ardent thirst and profuse secretion of a pale urine of a high density (1.060 and upward), rapid loss of condition, scurfy, unthrifty skin, costiveness or irregularity of the bowels, indiges- tion, and the presence in the urine of a sweet principle, grape-sugar, or inosite, or both. This mav be most promptly detected by touching the tip of the tongue with a drop. Sugar may be detected simply by add- ing a tea-spoonful of liquid yeast to four ounces of the urine and keeping it lightly stopped at a temperature of 70° to 80° F., for twelve hours, when the sugar will be found to have been changed into alcohol and carbon dioxide. ‘The loss of density will give indication of the amount of sugar transformed; thus a density of 1.035 in a urine which was formerly 1.060 would indicate about fifteen grains of sugar to the fluid ounice. Inosite or muscle-sugar, frequently present in the horse’s urine, and even replacing the glucose, is not fermentable. Its presence may be in- dicated by its sweetness and the absence of fermentation, or by Gallois’ test. Evaporate the suspected urine at a gentle heat almost to dryness, then add a drop of a solution of mercuric nitrate and evaporate carefully to dryness, when a yellowish residue is Jeft that is changed on further cautious heating to a deep rose-color, which disappears on cooling and re-appears on heating. In advanced diabetes, dropsies in the limbs and under the chest and belly, puffy, swollen eyelids, cataracts, catarrhal inflammation of the lungs, weak, uncertain gait, and drowsiness may be noted. Treatment. This is most satisfactory in cases dependent on some curable disease of liver, pancreas, lungs, or brain. Thus, in liver disease, a run at pasture in warm weather, or in winter a warm, sunny, well- aired stable, with sufficient clothing and sulphate of soda, one ounce daily as a laxative, and carbozate of potassium, one-fourth ounce as an alkali, may benefit. ‘To this may be added mild blistering, cupping, or even leeching over the last ribs. Diseases of the brain or pancreas may be treated according to their indications. The diet should be mainly 118 THE HORSE. albuminous, such as wheat-bran or middlings, pease, beans, and milk. Indeed, an exclusive milk diet is one of the very best remedial agencies. It may be given as skim milk or butter-milk, and in the last case com- bines an anti diabetic remedy in the lactic acid. Under such an exclu- sive diet recent and mild cases are often entirely restored, though at the expense of an attack of rheumatism. Codeine, one of the alkaloids of of opium, is strongly recommended by Dr. Tyson. The dose for the horse would be three grains thrice daily. In cases in which there is manifest irritation of the brain bromide of potassium, four drams, or ergot, one-half ounce, may be resorted to. Bitter tonics (especially nux vomica, one-half dram) are useful in improving digestion and general health. Excessive Secretion of Urine, or Diabetes Insipidus. This disease is also known as diuresis or polyuria. It consistsin an excessive secretion of a clear, watery urine of a low specific gravity (1.007) with a correspondingly ardent thirst, a rapidly advancing emaciation, and great loss of strength and spirit. Causes. It may be caused by any agent, medicinal, alimentary, or poisonous, which unduly stimulates the kidneys; the reckless adminis- tration of diuretics, which form such a common constituent of quack horse-powders; acrid diuretic plants in grass or hay; new oats still im- perfectly cured; an excess of roots or other very watery food; a full allowance of salt to animals that have become inordinately fond of it; but, above all, feeding on hay, grain, or bran which has not been prop- erly dried and has become musty and permeated by fungi. ‘Thus hay, straw, or oats secured in wet seasons and heating in the stack is espec- ially injurious. Hence this malady, like (sleepy staggers), is wide- spread in wet seasons, and especially in rainy districts. Symptoms. The horse drinks deep at every opportunity and passes urine on every occasion when stopped, the discharge being pale, watery, of a low density, and inodorous; in short, it contains a great excess of water and a deficiency of the solid excretions. So great is the quantity passed, however, that the small amount of solids in any given specimen amounts in twenty-four hours to far more than the normal, a fact in keeping with the rapid wasting of the tissues and extreme emaciation. The flanks become tucked up, the fat disappears, the bones and muscles stand out prominently, the skin becomes tense and hidebound, and the hair erect, scurfy, and deficient in luster. The eye becomes dull and sunken, the spirits are depressed, the animal is weak and sluggish, DISEASES OF THE URINARY ORGANS. 119 sweats on the slightest occasion, and can endure little. ‘The subject may survive for months, or he may die early of exhaustion. In the slighter cases, or when the cause ceases to operate, he may make a somewhat tardy recovery. Treatment. This consists in stopping the ingestion of the faulty drugs, poisons or food, and supplying sound hay and grain free from all taint of heating or mustiness. A liberal supply of boiled flaxseed in the drinking water at once serves to eliminate the poison and to sheath and protect the irritated-kidneys. Tonics like sulphate or phosphate of iron (two drams morning and evening) and powdered gentian or Peruvian bark (four drams) help greatly by bracing the system and hastening repair. To these may be added agents calculated to destroy the fungus and eliminate its poisonous products. In that form which depends on musty food nothing acts better than large doses of iodide of potas- sium (two drams), while in other cases creosote, carbolic acid (one dram), or oil of turpentine (four drams) properly diluted, may be resorted to. Poisoning by Albuminoids or Hemoglobinuria. Also known as azoturia or anazoturia. This is commonly supposed to be a disease of the kidneys, because the prominent symptoms are ropy and dark- colored urine and loss of control over the hind limbs; but it is rather a disease of the liver and blood-forming functions. This disease is never seen at pasture, rarely when the animal has constant daily work. It is connected with high feeding, especially food rich in nitrogen, such as oats, beans, and cotton-seed meal, and is made to show itself by taking the horse from the stable and subjecting it to work. The poison does not seem to be diffused, when starting, as the horse is usually lively and spirited, but within the first quarter or half mile it usually succumbs. This disease is peculiar to solipeds. In all others the portal veins have no communication with the vena cava (SEE MANIKIN OF THE HORSE) except through the capillaries of the liver, but in the solipeds there is a persistence through life of a condition common to foetal mam- mals, of several good-sized veins leading directly from the veins of the stomach and intestines (portal veins) into the posterior vena cava and heart. By the accelerated breathings there seems to be drawn directly into the blood the stored up nitrogenous matter in an imperfectly oxi- dized condition, thus rendering the blood unable to retain the healthy functions of the nerve centers and muscles. 120 ; THE HORSE. Symptoms. Inthe milder forms this affection may appear as a laineness in one limb, from indefinite cause, succeeaing to some sudden exertion and attended by a dusky-brown color of the membranes of the eye and nose and some wincing when the last ribs are struck. The severe forms come on after one or two days of rest on a full ration, when the animal has been taken out and driven one hundred yards or more. The fire and life with which he had left the stable suddenly give place to dullness and oppression, as shown in heaving flanks, dilated nostrils, pinched face, perspiring skin, and trembling body. The muscles of the loins or haunch become swelled and rigid, the subject moves stiffly or unsteadily, crouches behind, the limbs are carried half doubled, and he soon drops, unable to support himself. When down, the body and limbs are moved convulsively, but there is no power over the movement in the muscles. The pulse and breathing are quickened, the eyes red with a tinge of brown, and the urine, if passed, is seen to be highly colored, dark brown, red, or black, but it contains neither blood clots nor glob- ules. The color is mainly due to haemoglobin and other imperfectly elaborated constituents of the blood. It may end fatally in a few hours or days, or a recovery may ensue, which is usually more speedy and perfect if it has set in at an early stage. In the late and tardy recoveries a partial paralysis of the hind limbs may last for months. Prevention. ‘To avoid this serious affection, restrict the diet and give daily exercise when the animal is not at work. A horse that has had one attack should never be left idle for a single day in the stall or barn-yard. When a horse has been condemned to absolute repose on good feeding he may have a laxative (one-half to one pound Glauber salts), and have exercise, beginning with a short walk and increasing day by day. Treatment. In mild cases give a laxative, graduated daily exercise, and a daily dose of saltpeter (one ounce). Sudden attacks will some- times promptly subside if taken on the instant and the subject kept still and calmed by a dose of bromide of potassium (four drams) and sweet spirits of niter (one ounce). ‘The latter has the advantage of increasing the secretion of the kidneys. In severe cases, as a rule, it is desirable to begin treatment by a full dose of aloes (four to six drams) with the above-named dose of bromide of potassium, and this latter may be con- tinued at intervals of four or six hours, as may be requisite to calm the nervous excitement. Fomentations with warm water over the loins are DISEASES OF THE URINARY ORGANS. 121 always useful in calming the excitable condition of the spinal cord, muscles, liver, and kidneys, and also in favoring secretion from the two latter. On the second day give diuretics, such as saltpeter, one-half ounce, and powdered colchicum, one-half dram, to be repeated twice daily. A laxative may be repeated in three or four days should the bowels seem to demand it, and as the nervous excitement disappears any remaining muscular weakness or paralysis may be treated by one- half dram doses of nux vomica twice a day and a stimulating lini- ment (aqua ammonia and sweet-oil in equal proportions) rubbed on the torpid muscles. During the course of the disease friction to the limbs is useful. When the patient can not stand he must have a thick, soft bed, and should be turned from side to side at least twelve hours. As soon as he can be made to stand he may be helped up and even suprpoRTED in a sling. Chronic Inflammation of the Kidneys. Chronic inflamma- tion of the kidneys is more commonly associated with albumen and casts in the urine than the acute form, and in some instances these conditions of the urine may be the only prominent symptoms of the disease. ‘Though it may follow blows, injuries, and exposures, it is much: more commonly connected with faulty conditions of the system, such as indi- gestion, heart disease, lung or liver disease, imperfect blood formation or assimilation. In short, it is rather the attendant on a constitutional in- firmity than on a simple local injury. It may be associated with various forms of diseased kidney, as shrink- age (atrophy), increase (hypertrophy), softening, red congestion, white enlargement, etc., so that it forms a group of diseases rather than a disease by itself. Symptoms. There may be stiffness, weakness, and increased sensibil- ity of the loins, and modified secretion of urine (increase or suppression ) or the flow may be natural. Usually it contains albumen, the amount furnishing a fair criterion of the gravity of the affection, and microscopic casts, also most abundant in bad cases. Dropsy shown by swelled legs, is a significant symptom, and if the dropsy takes place along the lower line of the body, or in chest or abdomen, the significance is increased. A scurfy, unthrifty skin, lack-luster hair, inability to sustain severe or continued exertion, poor or irregular appetite, loss of fat and flesh, softness of the muscles, and pallor of the eyes and nose are equally suggestive. So are skin eruptions of various kinds. Any 122 THE HORSE. one or more of these symptoms would warrant an examination of the urine for albumen and casts, the finding of which signifies renal inflammation. Treatment. This is not always satisfactory, as the cause is liable to be maintained in the disorders of important organselsewhere. If any such disease of another organ or function can be detected, that should be treated first or simultaneously with this affection of the kidneys. In all cases the building up of the generai health is important. Hence a course of tonics may be given (phosphate of iron, two drams; nux vom- ica, twenty grains; powdered gentian root, four drams, daily), or sixty drops of sulphuric acid or nitro-muriatic acid may be given daily in the drinking water. If there is high temperature of the body and tender- ness of the loins, fomentations may be applied, followed by a mustard pulp as for acute inflammation, and even in the absence of these symp- toms the mustard may be used with advantage at intervals of a few days. In suppression of urine, fomentations with warm water or with infusion of digitalis leaves is a safer resort than diuretics, and cupping over the loins may also benefit. To apply a cup shave the skin and oil it; then- take a narrow-mouthed glass, rarify the air within it by introducing a taper in full flame for a second, withdraw the taper and instantly apply the mouth of the glass to the skin and hold it closely applied till the cooling tends to form a vacuum in the glass and to draw up the skin, like a sucker. As in the acute inflammation, every attention must be given to secure warm clothing, a warm stall, and pure air. Bloody Urine or Heematuria. Bloody urine in the horse is usually the result of injuries, as sprains and fractures of the loins, lacera- tions of the sub-lumbar muscles, irritation caused by stone in the kid- ney, ureter, bladder, or urethra. Bloody urine may occur with acute congestion of the kidney, with tumours in its substance, or diseased growth in the bladder. ‘The presence in the food of acrid diuretic plants may lead to the escape of blood from the kidney. ‘The horse is not as predisposed to Bloody Urine as the ox or sheep, the reason is that there is greater plasticity of the horse’s blood in connection with the larger quantities of fibrine. If the blood comes from the kidneys it is likely to be found diffused through the urine, while if it comes from the bladder or urinal passages it-is usually present in blood clots. Again if the blood comes from the kidney, the microscope will reveal minute cylin- drical blood clots surrounding blood-globules. ‘The location of the in- DISEASES OF THE URINARY ORGANS, 123, jury may be better ascertained by observing whether there is sprain of the loins, stone, or tumour of the bladder or urethra. Treatment. Since the disease is mainly due to direct injury, the cause should be removed if possible, and then general and local syptics should be applied. Irritants in the food must be avoided; if from sprain, give it proper treatment; if stone in the bladder or urethra it should be removed. Give freely of slippery-elm or linseed tea, and doses of the following : three drams of tincture of chloride of iron; one-half dram of the acetate of lead; one-half dram of tannic acid; or one ounce of the oil of turpentine. If the bloody discharge is considerable in quantity apply cold water to the loins and keep the animal very quiet. Acute Inflammation of the Kidneys or Acute Nephritis. The inflammations of the kidneys have been variously divided according to their varying symptoms and conditions, but for ordinary utility it is sufficiently extended to divide into AcuTE and CHRONIC. Causes. The causes of inflammation of the kidneys are varied and the congestion may be the result of any of the following : 1. Altered and irritant products passing through the kidneys during inflammation of other organs, and during fevers. The inflammation may last during the existence of the cause, or may continue and become aggravated. 2. The blood-pressure being thrown back on the veins and kidneys as a result of heart disease. 3. The escape of urine from the kidney being prevented by disease of the ureter or bladder, thereby causing increased fullness in the pelvis and tubes of the kidney. 4. When urine is detained in the kidneys from any cause, it becomes decomposed and produces ammonia and irritants. 5. The advance of bacteria from the bladder to the kidney through the ureter. 6. The receiving into the body with hay or other fodder acrid or irri- tating plants, including fungi. 7. The absorption of cantharidine from a surface blistered by Spanish flies, (cantharides); the reckless giving of diuretics; the presence of cal- culi (stones) in the kidney; exposure to cold and wet; and blows on the loins or sprains. 8. Liver disorders which throw on the kidneys the work of excreting irritating products. 124 THE HORSE. Symptoms. ‘These are more or less fever; stiffness of the back and a straddling gait with the hind legs; evident difficulty in lying down and rising; the animal will sometimes groan with pain if compelled to walk in a circle; arching of the loins and tucking up of the flanks; looking back at the belly as if there were colicky pains, and tenderness of the loins to pinching, especially just beneath the bony process six inches from the median line, (See manikin for location of kidneys, and also page 60 the last four lines of Srupy or SyMPToMS. ) Urine is passed frequently, a small quantity at a time, of a high color, and sometimes mixed with blood or even pus. Under the microscope it shows microscopic casts. The legs tend to swell from the foot up, also the dependent parts beneath the belly, and chest, and effusions of liquid may occur within the chest or abdomen. In the male animal the alter- nate drawing up and relaxation of the testicles in the scrotum are sug- gestive, and in small horses the oiled hand introduced into the rectum may reach the kidney and ascertain its sensitiveness. Treatment. This consists in removing any cause that may be recog- nized. Then, if the suffering and fever are high, two or four quarts of blood may be abstracted from the jugular vein; in weak subjects unless in high fever this should be omitted. Next relieve the kidneys as far as possible by throwing their work on the bowels and skin. A pint of cas- tor oil is less likely than either aloes or salts to act on the kidneys. Tio affect the skin a warm stall and heavy clothing may be supplemented by dram doses of Dover’s powder. (Dover’s Powder consists of sixty grains ipecac in No. 60 powder, sixty grains powdered opium, four hundred eighty grains sugar of milk in No. 30 powder). Boiled flaxseed may be added to the drinking water, and also thrown into the rectum as an injection, and blankets saturated with hot water should be persistently applied to the loins. This may be be followed by a very thin pulp of the best ground mustard made with tepid water, rubbed in against the direction of the hair, and covered up with paper anda blanket. This may be kept on for an hour, or until the skin thickens and the hair stands erect. It may then be rubbed or sponged off and the blanket re- applied. When the action of the bowels has been started it may be kept up by a daily dose of two or three ounces of Glauber salts. During recovery a course of bitter tonics (nux vomica one scruple, ground gentian root four drams), should be given. The patient should also be guarded against cold, wet, and any active exertion for some time after all active symptoms have subsided. CHAPTER IX. GALLS AND BRUISES. Their Effects and How to Avoid Them. ABSCESSES OR BOILS CAUSED BY CONTUSION, BRUISES AND THEIR TREATMENT, CHAFING BY THE HARNESS, AND SADDLE OR COLLAR GALLS, ETC. ouNDs and bruises often produce inflammation as a result of the injury of the affected part. If the wound is a puncture of some joint as the hock, fetlock, or knee, often there is discharged a thin, whitish or yellowish fluid, called joint-oil, or joint-water. If it is a bruise it often causes abscesses or the accumulaticn of pus. If it is caused by a continued rubbing, (chafing) it often leads to sores that are hard to heal, and even when healed the hair often grows in white or there is left a calloused condition of the skin. Abscesses. These consist of accumulations of pus within circum- scribed walls, at different parts of the body, and may beclassed as acute, and cold or chronic abscesses. Acute abscesses follow as the result of local inflammation in glands, muscular tissue, or even bones. ‘They are very common in the two former. ‘The abscesses most commonly met with in the horse (and the ones which will be here described) are those of the salivary glands, occurring during the existence of “‘strangles’’ or ‘‘colt distemper.*’ The glands behind or under the jaw are seen to slowly increase in size, becoming firm, hard, hot, and painful: At first the swelling is uni- formly hard and resisting over its entire surface, but in a little while 126 THE HORSE. becomes soft (fluctuating) at some portion, mostly in the center. From this time on the abscess is said to be ‘‘pointing’’ or ‘‘coming to a head,”’ which is shown by a small elevated or projecting prominence, which at first is dry, but soon becomes moist with transuded serum. The hairs over this part loosen and fall off, and in a short time the abscess opens, the contents escape, and the cavity gradually fills up—heals by granu- lations. Abscesses in muscular tissue are usually the result of bruises or inju- ries. In all cases where abscesses are forming we should hurry the ripening process by frequent hot fomentations and poultices. When they are very tardy in their development a blister over their surface is advisable. It isacommon rule with surgeons to open an abscess as soon as the pus can be plainly felt, but this practice can scarcely be rec- ommended to owners of stock indiscriminately, since this little operation frequently requires an exact knowledge of anatomy. It will usually be found the better plan to encourage the full ripening of an abscess and allow it to open of itself. This is imperative if the abscess is in the re- gion of joints, etc. When open, we must not squeeze the walls of the abscess to any extent. They may be very gently pressed with the fin- gers at first to remove the clots (inspissated pus) but after this the ori- fice is simply to be kept open by the introduction of a whalebone probe, should it be disposed to heal too soon. If the opening is at too high a level another should be made into the lowest portion of the abscess. Hot fomentations or poultices are some- times required for a day or two after an abscess has opened, and are particularly indicated when the base of the absess is hard and indu- rated. As a rule, injections into the cavity of abscesses are not in- dicated, though in cases of serous abscesses (if one may be allowed such latitude of terms), as cysts of the elbow, knee, etc., astringent in- jections (sulphate of zinc, fifteen grains to the ounce of water) are required to cause adhesions of the walls of the cavity and prevent it from refilling. If abscesses are foul and bad-smelling their cavities must be syringed with a weak solution of carbolic acid or other an- tiseptics. Cold abscess is the term applied to those large, indolent swellings that are the result of a low or chronic form of inflammation, in the center of which there is a small collection of pus. These are mostly met with at the base of the neck and in front of the shoulder joint. The swelling is diffuse and of enormous extent, but slightly hotter than surrounding GALLS AND BRUISES. 127 parts, and not very painful upon pressure. ‘There is a pronounced stiff- ness, rather than pain, evinced upon moving the animal. Such ab- scesses have the appearance of a hard tumor, surrounded by a softer cedematous swelling, involving the tissues to the extent of a foot or more in all directions from the tumor. ‘This diffused swelling gradually subsides and leaves the large, hardened mass somewhat well defined. One of the characteristics of cold abscesses is their tendency to remain in the same condition for a great length of time. There is neither heat nor soreness; no increase nor lessening in the size of the tumor; it re- mains statu quo. If, however, the animal should be put to work for a short time the irritation of the collar causes the surrounding tissues to again assume an cedematus condition, which, after a few days’ rest, dis- appear, leaving the tumor as before or but slightly larger. Upon care- ful manipulation we may discover what appears to be a fluid deep seated in the center of the mass. The quantity of matter so contained is very small (often not more than a tablespoonful) and for this reason it can not in all cases, be detected. Cold abscesses are mostly, if not always, caused by the long-contin- ued irritation of a loose and badly fitting collar. There is a slow in- flammatory action going on, which results in the formation of a small quantity of matter, inclosed in very thick and but partially organized walls, that are not as well defined as is the circumference of fibrous tu- mors, which they most resemble. Treatment. The means recommended to bring the acute abscess “to a head”’ are but rarely effectual with this variety; or, if successful, too much time has been occupied in the cure. We must look for other and more rapid methods of treatment. These consist in, first of all, cirefully exploring the tumor for the presence of pus. The incisions must be made over the softest part, and carried deep into the tumor (to its very bottom if necessary), and the matter allowed to escape. After this, and whether we have found matter or not, we must induce an active inflammation of the tumor in order to promote solution of the thick walls of the abscess. This may be done by inserting well into the in- cision a piece of oakum or cotton saturated with turpentine, carbolic acid, tincture of iodine, etc., or we may pack the incision with powdered sulphate of zinc and keep the orifice plugged for twenty-four hours. These agents set up a destructive inflammation of the walls. Suppura- tion follows, and this should now be encouraged by hot fomentations and poultices. The orifice must be kept open, and should it be dis- 128 THE HORSE. posed to heal we must again introduce some of the agents above described. A favored treatment with many, and it is probably the best, is to plunge a red-hot iron to the bottom of the incision, and thoroughly sear all parts of the walls of the abscess. This is to be repeated after the first slough has taken place, if the walls remain thick- ened and indurated. ' Itis useless to waste time with fomentations, poultices, or blisters in the treatment of cold abscesses, since, though apparently removed by such methods, they almost invariably return again when the horse is put to work. Extirpation by the knife is not practical, as the walls of the tumor are not sufficiently defined. If treated as above directed, and properly fitted with a good collar after healing, there will not remain any track, trace, or remembrance of the large, unsightly mass. Bruises. These are nothing but contused wounds, where the skin has not been ruptured. There is often considerable solution of continuity of the parts under the skin, subcutancous hemorrhage, ete., which may result in local death (mortification) and slough of the bruised part. If the bruise or contusion is not so severe, very many cases are quickly cured by constant fomentation with hot water for from two to four hours. The water should be allowed, about this time, to gradually be- come cool and then cold. Cold fomentation must then be kept up for another hour or two. Dry the parts thoroughly and quickly, and bathe them freely with camphor one ounce, sweet oil eight ounces. VELTS I, es Vee. AN ENGLISH DORSET HORN YEARLING RAM. The Dorsets are a quiet, docile, hardy breed, and will adapt them- selves readily to varying conditions. They get their growth early, and when fed on turnips alone, at two years will weigh one hundred twenty- five. The fleece is not heavy, but yields about six pounds of soft, clean, white wool. The lambs produce the ‘‘lamb’s wool’’ of which babies’ underclothing is often made. 370 SHEEP HUSBANDRY. The Dorsets, when crossed with the Southdown, do not produce so many twins, but the lambs will shear about two pounds of very soft, valuable wool. ‘These lambs, when full-grown, are larger than their Dorset mothers, and are a larger and thriftier sheep, with a heavier and finer fleece. They have been imported into this country, and are beginning to attract attention. ‘ af ty i ty A LINCOLN RAM. The Lincoln. This is one of the ‘‘long-wool’’ sheep which orig- inated in the rich low-lands of England. These lands, however, were so productive of high-priced, marketable crops, that the sheep have been driven from their native soil to the uplands. All the other of the well- known ‘‘long-wool’’ varieties have been almost entirely driven out from this low, rich, alluvial soil, leaving the Lincoln almost undisputed pos- session. This breed is the heaviest bodied sheep in existence. Full-grown sheep of this variety have dressed nearly one hundred pounds per quar- ter. It is not an unusual thing for yearlings to dress one hundred pounds and shear a dozen pounds of wool. This breed will be called a long-wooled sheep, because the wool, when full grown, often measures nine inches in length. There is a record of twenty-six pounds and six SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 371 ounces having been cut from a fourteen months old lamb of this variety. The Lincoln requires great care and skillful management. The soil must be rich and produce sweet herbage in abundance. It is not at present the sheep for the general farmer in America, and if it has a place in this country it is apparently only in the hands of a skillful breeder. A fine flock of these sheep has been imported into America and their adaptability to our climate is being tested. Aaa a A TYPICAL SUFFOLK RAM. The Leicester. Originally this breed was a large, heavy, coarse animal, with poorly flavored flesh. It had flat sides on a thin carcass, which was large boned. They were poor feeders, light weight, and the had long, coarse wool, of poor quality. But by a systematic breeding the sheep has changed its character and to-day is found without horns and a white face and legs. Its head is fine and small and has no wool on the poll. It has a deep neck and broad shoulders, a broad, straight, flat back, a large, bright eye, and a deep body. Its legs are clean and the bones are small. The flesh is sweet, but has too much outside fat to be desirable. Its fleece is fine, white, silky, and glossy, and of medium length, weighing six to eight pounds. = = SSS == SSS ——s SSS ==: SS = —— SSS = SS 372 SHEEP IIUSBANDRY. The Leicester as now bred is not a hardy sheep, and requires good care, extra good shelter, and special attention to keep it in a thriving condition. It can not be called a farmer’s sheep, and unless improved, will not become valuable to the American farmer, only as a cross to refine the wool of the Cotswold, by a judicious cross. St EE ESSE S SS SSS = SS: LS = WS =S== = PRIZE WINNING BORDER LEICESTER EWE. The Cotswold. ‘‘This breed has become so common in America, and has been bred so extensively without fresh importations of new blood that it may well be adopted as a native sheep. Many excellent flocks are now self-sustaining, and under their American nativity lose nothing of their original excellenee. They were originally very coarse animals, with thick heavy fleece, SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 373 well adapted to their home upon the bleak exposed Cotswold hills. So valuable and staple a breed could uot long remain without improvement. Naturally, the sweet nutritious herbage of the limestone covering these hills, favored this improvement, and as the pastures became enclosed, and agriculture improved in character, the flocks improved with it. The modern Cotswold is still capable of enduring hardship and expos- ure, and is at home on all sorts of soils. It produces a large carcass of excellent mutton, and a heavy fleece of valuable combing wool, adapted by its peculiar character for a class of goods of wide consumption, it be- ing in demand for various manufactures from the small matters such as worsted dress braids, up to various kinds of cloth for men’s and women's garments. Moreover the breed matures at an early age. It is not un- usual to find sheep of one hundred twenty pounds and over, at a year old. A full-grown sheep exhibited at a Christmas cattle market in England, dressed three hundred forty-four pounds, or eighty-six pounds per quarter. The weight of the fleece should average eight pounds for a flock of all kinds. and some of our naturalized flocks sur- pass this weight of fleece. The description of a well-bred Cotswold is as follows: the face and legs are white, but sometimes dashes of gray or brown derived from the original stock, may be found on both face and forelegs. The head is strong and massive with sometimes a Roman nose, without horns, and having a thick forelock of wool upon the fore- head. The neck and forequarters are not so square and heavy, nor the brisket so prominent, as in the best Leicesters; but the hind quarters are square, full, and the ribs well sprung, giving a round body; the flanks are deep; the legs are clean, and of moderate length.’’—SHEPHERD’S MANUAL. Cross-Bred Sheep. At the present time there seems to be more money in cross-bred sheep than in full ‘‘bred.’’ The wool producing sheep are of slow growth and are slow in maturing. The ‘‘mutton’’ sheep are great eaters aud require the most careful treatment. They have been so highly bred that they have weak constitutions, and are not as good breeders as the farmer would like. By a judicious cross there is still retained the quick growth, early maturity, and the good quality of the mutton. The sheep are more hardy, more easily kept, and produce more pounds of marketable mutton at a less cost than the pure ‘‘bloods.”’ The most conspicuous crosses are the Cotswold—Merino; the South- down—Merino; the Leicester—Merino; the Cotswold—Leicester; and the Cotswold—Southdown. 374 SHEEP HUSBANDRY. HOW TO TELL THE AGE OF SHEEP AND OTHER USEFUL FACTS. Teeth as an Indication of Age. The sheep has eight incisors or cutting teeth, which are all found upon the lower jaw. The remain- der of the teeth, twenty-four in number, are divided among the upper and lower jaws equally. While there isa general rule as to dentition in sheep, yet there are few breeds that mature early, and what would be correct in judging the ages of one class of sheep, would not be accurate in another. The following are the accepted periods of dentition, and may be found useful in determining the age of a sheep: At one month there are eight temporary front teeth or INCISORS, aud three temporary MOLARS on each side of each jaw. At three months there will be added a permanent MOLAR to the three temporary ones. At nine months there will appear the second permanent MOLAR. At twelve months the first pair of permanent INCISORS appear. This is often delayed till about the age of fourteen months. At eighteen months the third permanent MOLAR appears. At twenty-one months there will be four permanent INCISORS. At twenty-seven months the temporary MOLARS drop out and permia- neut ones begin to show. At thirty months there are six permanent INCISORS. At forty months all the eight permanent INCISORS have appeared. Relative Weight of Carcass. The result of experiments in which sheep were weighed before slaughtering, and the carcass weighed after, showed the value of dressed meat less the caul fat to be a little over one-half the live weight. Ticks on Lambs and Sheep. Ticks often appear on lambs and sheep late in the spring, and are annoying to the animal and injurious to their constitution. The best remedy for this pest is to dip both the sheep and lambs into water into which coarse tobacco has been steeped, in the proportion of four pounds of tobacco to twenty gallons of water. When thoroughly steeped add one pound of flowers of sulphur. The liquid should be kept warm while dipping the animals, by adding fresh hot liquid. A temperature of 120° F. is necessary to kill the tick. The liquid that drips from the sheep should be caught and reheated and used again. SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 375 DISEASES COMMON TO SHEEP, THEIR CAUSES, PREVENTION, AND TREATMENT. Constipation or Costiveness. ‘This is more of a symptom of an approaching disease, than a disease in itself. It occurs occasionally upon flocks going from pasture to dry food. In such cases feed the animals a little linseed-cake meal or some succulent root. If stubborn, give one ounce of linseed oil, and inject warm soap and water. When the costiveness is so severe or of so long standing as to cause the animal to stretch itself and stand with its feet spreading apart, rais- ing its head and curving its back, give once a day one tea-spoonful of Flowers of Sulphur, mixed with a small quantity of molasses, which should be put on the animal’s tongue to be swallowed. Diarrhea or Scours. The opposite of costiveness. This is likely to occur upon turning sheep to pasture in the spring, or when fed rich succulent green food. This is not dangerous in itself, but may, by re- ducing the strength of the animal, cause complications. A regular sup- ply of salt, careful regulation of food, and the avoiding of sudden changes will usually prevent this symptom of disease. Give two table- spoonfuls of the following twice a day, and if a lamb, about one-half the quantity, eccording to age: 4 drams Pulverized Ginger, 8 drams Catechu, 2 ounces Prepared Chalk, 1 dram Opium, Mix with one pint peppermint water, and always shake the bottle before using. The diarrhea may be caused by irritating substances in the intestines, and is shown by there being a slimy matter in the passages from the bowels. In this case the treatment should be to remove the irritating matter and therefore a physic should be given, as follows: 1 dram Ginger, 1 ounce Epsom Salts, or, 1 dram Ginger, 2 ounces Linseed Oil. Give the above in gruel. Follow the treatment by a careful nursing and feeding. 376 SHEEP HUSBANDRY. Diarrhea or ‘““White Scours.’’ In the nursing lamb diarrhea takes the form of a liquid discharge of a white color. The milk passes through the body without digestion, and to this condition is given the name ‘‘White Scours.’’ This sometimes is caused by the milk of the mother being changed by feeding upou some succulent food. In such cases change the food of the ewe to a more solid and nutritious food. If it comes from a disordered condition of the digestive organs of the lamb, give the following physic : 5 drops Essence of Ginger, 1 tea-spoonful Linseed Oil. As soon as it has operated, give two tea-spoonfuls of the following twice a day : 1 ounce Prepared Chalk, $ dram Opium, 2 drams Powdered Ginger, 4 drams Powdered Catechn. Mix in one pint of peppermint water. Always shake well before administering. Dysentery. Many people are not able to distinguish the difference between diarrhea and dysentery, yet they are two different conditions and require different treatment. They are often induced by the same conditions but the discharge from the bowels is of a different c!.aracter. In dysentery there is more or less fever according to the severity of the case. The dung mixed with mucus and blood shows that the lining of the bowels is inflamed. The discharge is frequent, lumpy and scanty and has a fetid smell. The voiding of the discharge is attended with pain, causing the sheep to arch its back and moan. The wool often loosens from the pelt after the disease has been running a short time. The treatment for this disease is to first remove the contents of the bowels, together with some anodyne to ease the pain. The following may be given mixed in oat-meal or linseed gruel: 2 grains Powdered Opium, 2 ounces Linseed Oil. Give oat-meal gruel as a nourishment quite frequently during the day, and then follow for several days with daily doses of the following: 2 grains Powdered Opium, 1 dram Ginger. If the bowels do not become regular or are constipated give one ounce of oil every other day. SHEEP HUSBANDRY, 377 This disease is Induced by dry indigestible food; impure water; a lack of water; neglected diarrhea: and feeding in a pasture in warm weather; that has been occupied by sheep that have had this disease, the sheep taking the poison from the grass that has been contaminated by their discharges. Inflammation of the Bowels. This is not a common disease in this country, but occurs occasionally as the result of continued indiges- tion or bad feeding and bad water in warm weather. The disease makes its first appearance by weeping and redness of the eyes, and a tired and pained expression to the face. ‘There is a loss of appetite and no rumi- nation (chewing of the cud). There is weakness and staggering, swell- ing of the flanks, high fever and difficult breathing. To prevent its spread, if it once makes its appearance, change the pas- ture to high grounds and supply plenty of pure water. It is not conta- gious and only spreads when conditions favor the disease. When the sheep are put back in their old pasture, as a preventive give them salt which has had one ounce each of the sulphate of iron, powdered gentian and powdered ginger mixed with every six pounds. To cure, give an ounce of Linseed or Castor Oil, or Epsom salts, and follow after it has operated with one dram doses of the Sulphite of Soda, twice a day. The food should be glutinous and semi-liquid, such as oat- ‘ meal or linseed gruel. Unless the animal is very valuable, it is a ques- tion whether it will pay to attempt a cure in a serious case, as the recovery is slow, and the debility caused by the disease is of itself often fatal. Hoven. ‘This is a disease common to ruminants and as the sheep is one of this class, it, like the others, is subject to the disease. It arises from the forming of gases by the food that is in the first stomach or ru- men. ‘This gascollects in such large quantities that the rumen (paunch) is so distended that it presses forward against the diaphragm and inter- feres with the action of both the heart and lungs. It shows it- self outwardly by a distention of the left side of the abdomen, by which the skin is tightly drawn until it seems in danger of bursting. Treatment. An alkaline that will absorb the gas is the best treat- ment. ‘The best alkaline fluid that can be given is as follows: 1 tea-spoonful Aqua Ammonia, (Hartshorn Water), $ pint Water. This should be given as a drench. A rubber tube of the proper size should be kept on hand to be used as a probang. This could be forced 378 SHEEP HUSBANDRY. down and the gas could escape through the opening, and the alkaline fluid could also be administered through it. If necessary an opening may be made through the rumen with a small bladed knife if a trochar and canula are not at hand. If a knife is used a goose-quill should be inserted into the opening made, to allow the gas to escape. The alka- line fluid could also be injected through the quill in the rumen by use of acommon syringe. The opening should be made at the place where the greatest swelling is apparent. After the gas has somewhat subsided give with a horn, the following: 1 pint Water, 1 dram Powdered Ginger, 2 ounces Epsom Salts. If the gas still continues givea dram of chloride of lime. Cold or Catarrh. ‘This disease is caused by exposure to damp- ness, sudden changes in temperature, or too warm a shed or pen. If your flock is very carefully housed and then exposed by open doors, or letting out into the yard, you may look for catarrh. Protect your sheep from chilling rain-storms in winter, give them plenty of ventilation, but no draft of cold air. Partly open sheds are to be preferred to closed ones with open windows and doors for ventilation. Chasing by dogs, or overdriving, thus overheating the animal, is a cer- tain cause for colds. The disease is an inflammation of the mucous membrane, lining the throat, windpipe, and nostrils, and the sinuses of the head. It is the same asa ‘‘cold’’? in man. ‘There isa mucus discharge from the nose, caused by congestion of the membrane, and irritation and coughing. Treatment. Give something to stimulate action, as a half tea- spoonful of ground ginger. A small quantity of pine pitch or tar rubbed on the nose, so that the sheep will lick it off, is beneficial. Usually there is a fever and the nose is dry and hot, when it is best to give 1 dram Ground Ginger, 1 dram Saltpeter, 3 ounce Epso.u Salts. Mix with molasses and give as a soft mixture. The dose may be mixed with thin gruel and administered by means of a small drench- ing horn. Be sure and give good nursing and feed on slightly warm mucilaginous drinks, as linseed or oat-meal gruel. SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 379 Bronchitis. This a catarrh or cold that has settled on the air pas- sages in the lungs or bronchial tubes. This inflammation will rapidly spread so as to affect the lungs. The cough is more prominent than in a ‘‘cold in the head”’ or ‘“‘throat.’’ The pulse and breathing are quick- er and there is a fever and poor appetite. Treat same as for Cold or Catarrh, but continue longer and change the dose to the following if the first does not seem to cause improve- ment. 1 ounce Linseed Oil, 1 ounce Powdered Gentian, 1 dram Saltpeter. Mix and give one dose a day for three days, reducing the last day the amount of saltpeter to one-half dram. Keep animal dry and quiet, with plenty of fresh air and pure water. Inflammation of the Lungs. This is pneumonia and is quite common. Often the sheep is too far gone with pneumonia before the owner is aware that his sheep is sick. This disease to be cured requires immediate and proper treatment or it will prove fatal. Symptoms. There is a difficult and painful cough; a discharge of a thick yellow mucus from the nostrils; a high fever attended with great thirst; a hard, quick pulse; labored breathing and painful heaving of the flanks; together with a loss of appetite. Treatment. This is of no avail unless commenced immediately. Bleed from the jugular vein, till animal staggers and give immediately two ounces of Epsom salts. If this does not operate as a good physic, in three hours give one-half a dose. Unlike the horse, the sheep seems to do better with a good purging. Give rectum injections of oat-meal or linseed gruel every two hours. Administer twice a day in gruel of some kind. 20 grains Tartar Hmetic, 20 grains Powdered Digitalis, 1 dram Nitrate of Potash. When the animal improves and moves about, give every four hours in gcuel, half dram of powdered Gentian. This disease in sheep as well as in man is the result of carelessness, and by proper care and attention can be avoided. Influenza. This disease is due to causes which seem to exist at times over extended portions of the country, and is liable to affect a large number of animals at a time. It is not contagious, but breaks out 380 SHEEP HUSBANDRY. and spreads under conditions that are favorable to its propagation. It is an inflammation of the mucous membrane lining the nasal and bronchial passages, which is accompanied with fever and prostration. The whole system seems disturbed. There is redness of the eyes; run- ning at the nose; indigestion, causing loss of appetite; a cough; and great weakness. It is generally prevalent after a few days of cold, damp weather, and is most severe along river bottoms, where fogs and mists abound. During such weather carefully house and shelter the flocks, and feed them some salt in which sulphur has been mixed in the pro- portion of one pound of the flowers of sulphur to a peck of salt. If the disease is mild, give the following purgative : 4 ounce Epsom Salts, 1 dram Ginger. Mix in molasses and give by putting a small quantity at a time on the back of the tongue with a wooden spatula. If the animals are seriously affected, give every six hours, 1 ounce Solution of Acetate of Ammonia, 8 drops Tincture of Aconite. At the third dose give only five drops of aconite, at the fourth only three, and then give the aconite of ammonia alone. When convalescent, feed on bran and linseed mashes, boiled Indian-corn mush, with a little powdered ginger or gentian mixed in each mess. Congestion of the Liver. This is caused by excessive feeding of stimulating food and no exercise, in which case the liver is liable to be- come gorged with blood. ‘This excessive fullness of blood causes con- gestion. It is caused by disordered digestion and involves the liver. The symptoms are constipation, yellow tinge to the eyes, and dullness. If the yellow tinge in the eye appears, do not delay treatment or it may run into inflammation of the liver. Give an active physic every morning until the yellow tinge in the eye has disappeared, and there is an improvement in the appetite. The fol- lowing purge may be mixed with molasses and given: 3 grains Calomel, 1 ounce Epsom Salts. Always supply the sheep with a warm drink soon after giving the medicine. Inflammation of the Liver. By neglect, congestion of the liver may turn to inflammation. When this happens the system becomes fevered; the nose and mouth hot and dry; the breath fetid; the ears SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 381 cold; the eyes pale and glassy; the pulse is irregular; breathing is slow, and the expirations short and sudden; the dung is dry, hard, black, and glazed with a greasy yellowish-green mucus; the urine is highly colored, scanty, hot, and smells disagreeably. Pressure on the right side, near the short ribs, produces pain, and the animal moans. The treatment consists of purgatives and injections. For a purgative the following may be given twice a day in infusion of linseed or gum Arabic, or in molasses, well mixed together and placed on the tongue: 2 drams Sulphate of Potash, 5 grains Calomel, 1 grain Powdered Opium. Injections of warm water and castile soap may be given until the bowels act freely. When improvement occurs, and the appetite returns, great care in feeding should be observed, and only the most easily digested food should be given. Pulped sugar beet, scalded clover-hay, chaff, lin- seed-meal, boiled meat, or sifted corn-meal, may be given with linseed tea for drink, or water acidulated with a few drops of aromatic sulphuric acid. Poisoned by Sheep Laurel. The narrow-leaved Kalmia, (Kal- mia angustifolia) is commonly called sheep laurel, because at certain seasons of the year the sheep seems tempted to eat of the plant, which often proves fatal to them. When poisoned by this plant they are lazy, disinclined to move, froth at the mouth and nose, have a slower pulse than usual, blood-shot eyes and a staggering gait. Laurel poisoning is usually fatal within ten or twelve nours, and therefore immediate atten- tion is necessary. Give at least two ounces of Epsom salts in a pint of warm water, and give a pint of warm water every hour thereafter for three or four hours. Use rectum injections of warm soap suds or oil, which will help the poisonous matter to pass out of the bowels. Sheep should not be allowed during the spring or winter to pasture where a laurel grows. Beside the common sheep laurel, they will also feed on the large leaved laurel, (Kalmia latifolia). Injurious Effects of Plaster and Lime. It is very injurious to sheep to turn them upon a pasture that has been freshly sown with phosphate, bone-dust, plaster or lime, until there has been sufficient rain to thoroughly wash these from the grasses. Inflammation of the Bladder. This is the most frequent of the diseases of the urinary organs. It is induced by eating too often and 382 SHEEP HUSBANDRY. too much corn meal, or drinking very hard water. The eating of St. john’s-wort, rag-weed, and lobelia is often the cause of the disease. It is an inflammation of the inner coat of the bladder, which usually spreads to the muscle around the neck of the bladder, causing it to close and prevent the passage of the urine. The bladder being thus filled causes the animal to be uneasy, lift its hind feet and stamp with them, spread them out, and strain itself in endeavoring to pass urine. As the animal strains in its efforts to void the urine, it will moan in pain. Bleed the animal from the neck, and give the following : 2 drams Laudanum, 2 ounces Linseed Oil. If it is a small sized sheep or lamb, reduce the dose accordingly. If the animal does not improve in forty-eight hours, bleed again and give a half dose of the above and continue giving one dose a day until the animal has improved. Feed for some time on light mucilaginous foods, as oat-meal or linseed gruel. Inflammation of the Brain. This is caused by continued high feeding or some condition of the digestive apparatus which causes a “rush of blood’’ to the brain. It seldom appears only as a secondary condition which has at first produced what is commonly called Staggers. The animal is apparently temporarily blind, staggering about and run- ning against walls and fences. The eyes are inflamed and swollen. By giving a purgative of Epsom Salts, and mucilaginous diet, the animal usually returns toits normal condition. If not and it runs into inflam- mation of the brain, the symptoms are much more exaggerated. The animal dashing here and there as if mad, and finally falls down and dies in convulsions. ‘The remedies are not very successful, but copious bleed- ing and purging with Epsom salts may relieve the animal and effect a cure. Water on the Brain. This a disease for which there is no cure, and if a sheep is attacked it is best to dispose of it. If in a lamb, it is not worth trying to raise. This disease is hereditary and if found in any great numbers in a flock of lambs, the ram should be changed. If it arises from the mothers, fatten them for the butcher. Staggers. See Inflammation of the Brain. Diseases of the Feet. The foot of the sheep is subject to many disorders. ‘The formation of the foot is unlike that of the horse, because there are no layers of horn between the outside crust and the tender tis- SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 383 sues inside. Its growth is not like that of the horse, which grows from the coronet downward, but grows from all parts of the inner tissues. The outside crust is worn off to an edge by contact with the ground, and if the sole and crust are worn equally, it shows the foot to be in a healthy condition. But if the growth is unequal it shows that disease is present. Contagious Foot-Rot. This disease is very contagious, and un- less preventive measures are taken to stop its spreading, will often infect the whole flock. In this disease there is an inflammation which seéms to affect the whole hoof. Blisters form between the toes and upon the heels. These blisters in a few days ulcerate and discharge a fetid mat- ter. ‘This disease is usually confined to the fore-feet, the animal show- ing how painful the disease is by going about upon its knees. If noth- ing is done to stop the disease, in a short time the hoofs are all des- troyed, and the animal is left with only wounded stumps. Commence treatment, if possible, before ulceration sets in, because after this has commenced it takes a long time to cure the animal. As soon as a case of lameness appears, examine for its cause. It may be a case of common Foot-rot or Gravel, (which see, for a description of its symptoms) or a case of Contagious Foot-rot. Ifthe latter, remove all loose, raw, diseased horn, by cutting itaway. Should the outside horn be long at the toes, that too should be cut away, and if any pus is found between the horn and the underlying tissues, the horn should be cut away until it is exposed. At least twice a week clean the feet by wash- ing them in water in which carbolic soap has been dissolved, and after the thorough washing swab them thoroughly with the following mixture. 1 ounce Arsenic, 6 ounces Acetic Acid, 3 pound Oxide of Copper, 1 pint Molasses. If more convenient, or if an ointment is preferred, use the fol- lowing : 1 pint Linseed Oil, 1 pound Powdered Sulphate of Copper, 3 pound Verdigris, 1 quart Pine Tar. This is to be preferred in wet weather, as it will not wash off like the solution by’travelling in the wet grass. ‘This disease is seldom seen on dry pastures, except it is brought there by some flock that was affected, 384. SHEEP HUSBANDRY. therefore to cure, keep the sheep in dry pastures. It is said that some- times this disease is contracted by sheep being put into the same pasture where sheep were grazing even the year previous. Common Foot-rot or Gravel. This is not contagious, and is due to the excessive wear of the horny part of the hoof, caused by walk- ing upon hard gravel or stony land, or by this crust of the hoof growing too long in soft, moist pastures. In either case, gravel or some other foreign matter gets between the crust and the underlying tissues, and causes inflammation. Remove the gravel or other foreign matter carefully, by means of a sharp knife, or a knitting needle or awl. ‘Then clease the foot and put on the following antiseptic wash: 1 ounce Chloride of Zinc, 1 quart Water. Blue vitriol may be used in the place of the chloride of zinc, if more convenient. If the case proves very bad and ulcerates, the wash used for contagious foot-rot should be applied. The Sheep Gad-fly. This is a very annoying animal and causes that disgusting condition, ‘‘Grub in the Head.’”? The gad-flies during July and August disturb the sheep by trying to deposit their eggs upon the sheep’s nose. Where the fly is in great numbers the sheep will crowd together, stop feeding, and hold their noses to the ground, stamp the feet in their efforts to evade this pest. The fly has a body about one-half inch long, over which is spread two wings which will, when extended, measure one inch across. The egg, is deposited on the sheep’s nose, and as soon as hatched the grub crawls up the nostril and remains in the sinuses of the head, living on the secretions of the mucous membrane till the next spring, when it is ready to crawl down and out, to form a chrysalis which in time will hatch a new gad-fly to deposit its eggs on the nose of the innocent annimal. In entering the nostrils and on leaving them the grub causes a great annoyance to the sheep. The remedy is to prevent the fly from laying its egg on the nostril, or destroying the egg if deposited. This is successfully accom- plished by smearing the nose of the sheep every day or so during the months of July and August with pine-tar diluted with oil, lard, or fresh butter. This can be easily done by a brush as they pass out from a yard through a long narrow passage only wide enough for one to pass through at a time. When the grub gets ready to dislodge in the early SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 385 spring, an injection of good strong tobacco smoke will cause it to quickly crawl out from its lodging place. The Sheep Louse. The red sheep-louse, (trichodectes ovis) has a pale yellow body marked with dark bands, but a head of red color. This animal lives on the inner, upper parts of the fore and hind legs. It irritates and annoys the sheep very much, and the sheep will force its head through between the boards of a fence, so that it can rub the irri- tated part, and they will often be found impinged and strangled or with the legs broken in their attempts to again become free. Sheep that have been dipped in tobacco and sulphur water to be cleared of ticks, are usually free from this pest. An easy remedy is to rub the parts affected with the following: 2 ounces Flowers of Sulphur, 1 pound Adeps, (Lard), 2 drops Creosote. . One pint linseed, olive, or sweet oil may be substituted for the lard. Scab Insect. This is an external parasite which digs down into the skin and finds for itself a lodging place within its tissues. The pres- ence of the insect causes an irritation of the skin, which in its efforts to dislodge the parasite secretes a serous-like fluid, which on drying on the surface forms a scab, hence the name ‘‘scab-insect.’’ The female insect is larger than the male, and one male suffices for many females and lives longer. The eggs of the scab-insect are very numerous, and it takes only three days to hatch, so one female insect can produce over a million in ninety days. This wonderful increase explains why the dis- ease spreads so rapidly through a flock, and the need of instant remedies to drive out and effective preventives to keep it from spreading. Symptoms. There is at first great uneasiness, and as the disease progresses the sheep will be seen rubbing or scratching themselves, or sticking their noses in the wool, biting and nibbling. The skin will be at first white in color and a little swollen, which is indicated by being thicker than the rest of the skin, and moist or covered with a yellow serum. Later the serum forms into a scab and the wool falls off. Ifa lock of this wool is examined by laying it upon a piece of white cloth, the mites can be seen as they crawl upon it. If the insects are allowed to increase in number the scabby spots will increase in size and number, and great patches of the wool will fall off, leaving bare spots on which thick brown or yellow scales are seen, and the sheep will be found rub 386 SHEEP HUSBANDRY. bing these bare places against trees and fences till they become great sores. Treatment. Many preparations have been tried and found effect- ive, but many are objectionable on account of their poisonous properties. The tobacco and sulphur wash recommended for sheep tick is a reliable remedy. ‘The water should be applied at a temperature of 120° F. and the sheep kept in the liquid until the wool is penetrated down to the skin. This softens the scab, and as they are removed (which should be done with care) the raw surfaces should be thoroughly wet with the mixture. Do not let the sheep out on the pasture till the water has ceased dripping, because the tobacco and sulphur might sicken the ani- mals that ate the grass which it had fouled. Repeat the operation after ten days to kill any newly-hatched insects. With care the animals can be thoroughly rid of this parasite, and they can be kept free from them as well as the sheep-tick and sheep-louse by dipping twice a year. Castration. ‘‘This necessary operation should be performed as early as possible, as there is less danger of evil effects following it than when the lamb is older. The lining membrane of the scrotum is a continua- tion of that of the abdomen, and when inflammation follows the opera- tion, it is readily communicated to the abdomen, and peritonitis or in- flammation of the membrane lining the cavity and enveloping the bowels results, and this is generally fatal. A lamb a week old may be deprived of the whole scrotum and testacles, by one stroke of a pair of shears, without any danger or the loss of more than a few drops of blood. But when the lamb has become some months old, the organ has become fully developed as to nerves and vessels, and a more careful operation must be performed. An excellent method is for the operator to sit upon a long bench, with one of the lamb’s hind legs beneath each of his thighs, the head and fore legs being held by an assistant. Taking the scrotum in the left hand, he presses the testacles towards the lower end, making the skin tight and smooth. He then makes a free incision with a sharp knife at the bottom of the scrotum beneath each testacle; the membranes which surround them are cut through, the cords and vessels which are attached to them are scraped, not cut asunder, and the operation is com- pleted. To castrate a mature ram, an incision is made at the bottom of each compartment of the scrotum, each testacle being removed sepa- rately, the cords and vessels being always scraped asunder. The main point to secure is, to have the wound at the bottom of the scrotum, so as to allow the pus, which will form within it, to escape. If this pus is re- SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 387 tained in the wound, it becomes absorbed, inflammation is communicated to the adjacent parts, and a fatal termination is likely toensue. ‘To pre vent this, a small lock of wool is sometimes left in the wound, by which it is kept open and the danger averted.’’—STEWART. Docking. ‘‘This operation should be performed on all the lambs when a week or two old. It is then but slighly painful. The best method is to take the lamb between the knees, and hold its rump closely against a block of wood. ‘Then drawing the skin of the tail towards the rump; a boy gives the chisel a smart rap with a light mallet, and the tail is severed at one stroke with a smooth cut which leaves the bone ina good condition to heal quickly. A pinch of powdered copperas may be placed on the stump of the tail to staunch any bleeeding, and to keep off flies.’’—STEWART. How to Feed a Lamb. A twin lamb, or one deprived of its dam, that may need to be reared by hand, may easily be fed upon cow’s milk. A fresh cow’s milk is the best fitted for this purpose. Ewe’s milk is richer in solid mater than that of the cow, and the addition of a teaspoonful of white refined sugar to the pint of cow’s milk will make it more palatable to the lamb. At first not more than a quarter of a pint of milk should be given at once. The milk should be freshly drawn from the cow, and warmed up to 100° F. beforeit is fed. A con- venient method of feeding milk to a lamb is to use a small tin can with a long spout, such as is used for oil. An air-hole is punched in the cov- er or cork and a piece of sponge covered with a cloth is tied upon the end of the sponge. ‘The flow is then made easy and equal and the lamb sucks in an easy manner. A very short time is sufficient to familiar- ize the lamb with this kind of foster mother. The Association of Dogs with Sheep. Itis a common prac- tice among many farmers who have a large herd of sheep, to keep a dog to assist in driving and caring for his flock. There is a breed of dogs which is very useful for this purpose, and if it was not for the fact that dogs are infested with tape-worms they certainly would be a very desir- able animal to have on the farm. Dogs, beside the annual slaughter of very many valuable sheep, cause death by transmitting to sheep a form of tape-worm. ‘The eggs of the tape-worms are discharged in the dung of the dog upon fields and pas- tures and are swallowed by the sheep with the green pasture, and the worm is developed in the body of the sheep, either in the lungs, the ab- domen, or the brain, causing a disease which prevents the sheep from 388 SHEEP HUSBANDRY. thriving and often causes death. The larva of this tape-worm is a small watery bladder, or sac, which contains the undeveloped worm. ‘There are two general varieties of these worms, one the intestinal tape-worm, which is very rare, and the bladder worms, of which there are three kinds. Of these bladder worms one variety, the diving bladder-worm, inhabits the abdomen; another variety, the many-headed bladder-worm finds a home in the liver; while the third inhabits the brain, and are called the brain bladder-worm. Diving Bladder-Worm. ‘These worms are found free in the abdo- men; enclosed in the adipose tissue (fat); and attached to the liver and intestines. They vary in size froma hickory-nut to ahen’s egg. They sometimes are found as large as a goose’segg. These bladders when fed to a dog, produce the mature tenia marginata (tape worm) about three feet in length in about three months. ‘Then the sheep or lambs eating the eggs of this worm produce the hydatids or bladder-worms. If they are taken into the body in large quantities the animal will soon die. Many Headed Bladder Worms. This parasite finds a home in the lungs and liver of the sheep and other ruminants and also is found in man. Itis a most dangerous parasite, because if it is taken into the human stomach it may produce ‘‘bladders’’ in the brain. They grow by a budding process and rapidly increase. It is most commonly found in the brain. When the head of a sheep containing the bladder-worms is eaten by a dog the larvee is changed into tape worms. ‘This worm or its eggs pass out of the body of the dog upon the grass of the pasture and the eggs are swallowed by the sheep. These eggs are hatched in the stomach and go to all parts of the body, perishing everywhere but in the brain, which is its usual habitation. They chiefly affect lambs, old sheep seeming to be rarely inconvenienced by this parasite. One in- fested dog will produce thousands of eggs. ‘To prevent the disease, do not let the heads of sheep be devoured by dogs or hogs. Burn the heads of the sheep that have died from the malady. The presence of this parasite produces what is commonly known as giddiness or turnside in which the sheep turns its head to the right or left and walks around ina circle in the direction in which the head is turned until it falls giddy and exhausted. The location of the worm may be determined by a ‘‘soft spot’’ on the skull. The worm causes absorption of the substance and the soft tissues may be easily felt by pressure of the finger. "The treatment consists in inserting a curved awl through the skull and piercing the bladder. The SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 389 water then escapes and is absorbed, leaving the worm to perish. Hair-Worms in the Intestines. A species of ‘‘hair-worm’’ called from its peculiar formation TRICOCEPHALUS, is not uncommon in sheep. It infests the stomach and intestines, causing obstinate diarrhea, and rapid wasting of flesh. These worms burrow their heads into the membrane lining the organs, which submits to no treatment while they remain. A cough is often present along with the diarrhea. Other species of worms, of habits identical with these, and producing the same injurious effects, also infest the sheep, but more particularly lambs and yearlings. Salt in doses of half an ounce, given on alternate days with one dram doses of sulphate of iron, the salt being given on one day and the iron the next, is a very sure remedy for this class of parasites, and the disease which results from their presence. To counteract the debilitating effect of these parasites, the food should be of the most nutritive and digestible character, and linseed in some shape should not be omitted. Tape-worms, or Teenia Plicata. The sheep themselves are sometimes infested with mature tape-worms. This is easily explained by the possibility of the sheep swallowing along with their pasture some of the eggs which may have been voided by any of the numerous bearers of these worms, both domesticated and wild. Generally the symptoms developed by the presence of tape-worms are voracity of appetite, alternating with a refusal of food; loss of condition, desire to swallow earth, stones, sand, or ashes; the passage of soft dung, mixed with mucus, which becomes attached to the vent and tail, causing a very filthy condition; and the evidence of internal pain. The sheep finally dies greatly emaciated. ‘There is no means of prevention, as the eggs may be dropped by rabbits, squirrels, skunks, and other wild ani- mals which frequent the fields. The treatment most effective is to ad- minister turpentine as follows: 2 ounces Linseed Oil. 3 to 1 ounce Spirits of Turpentine. This should be repeated twice a week for two weeks. If this is not effective, three ounces of the Powdered root of Male Fern may be given. The dose to be repeated in one week. In six hours after this is admin- istered, a purgative of linseed-oil should be given. ‘The food should be of the best kind until the lost condition is restored. ‘Tape-worms in any of their forms of life, affect only young sheep and lambs. When sheep attain the age of two years they are safe from them, and it is very rare indeed that one older than this becomes in- fested with them. 390 SHEEP HUSBANDRY. Lambs and Their Diseases. ‘‘ The diseases to which lambs are subject are but few, and those are mainly the result of carelessness in their management. ‘The lamb, which appears so delicate and tender an animal, is really hardy, and resists much ill treatment, else with so little consideration as they usually receive, the race would soon become almost extinct. Damp and cold are especially to be guarded against in the spring, and filthy yards at all seasons. With clean pens and dry, clean bedding, they will resist the severe dry colds of a northern January, and thrive and grow while snowstorms rage, if only well sheltered. Sun- shine has a remarkable effect upon lambs, and the warmth of the sun will often revive and strengthen a weak lamb that appears past relief. Extremes of damp and impure air in close pens, and bad drinking water, will produce diarrhea and paralysis, and these are the chiefly fatal dis- orders to which they are subject. Constipation is produced by want of proper laxative food, and permitting them to feed on dry, withered herb. age that has lost its nutritive qualities beneath the storms of a winter. If, notwithstanding all possible care, some weakly lambs are found to require treatment, the simple purgative (a teaspoonful of castor or raw linseed oil) will be found effective, after two or three doses, in removing the troublesome matter from their intestines, and restoring the bowels to healthful action. If in‘any case, a stimulant seems to be needed, as when great weakness and prostration are present, the safest is a tea- spoonful of gin, given in a little warm water with sugar. A still more gentle stimulant and anodyne, but one very effective in prolonged diar- rhea, is prepared by adding to a pint of peppermint water, one ounce of prepared chalk, a teaspoonful each of tincture of opium and tincture of rhubarb ; it is worthy of the name given to it by shepherds, viz. : ‘‘ lambs’ cordial,’’ and at the lambing season no shepherd should be without a supply of it. The dose is a teaspoonful for a lamb of a few days old, up to a tablespoonful for one of a month. Exposure to cold rains should be guarded against, and if by inadvertence a lamb is found chilled and rigid from such exposure, it may generally be restored by means of a bath of warm water and a teaspoonful of warm sweetened gin and water. After the bath the lamb should be gently dried, wrapped in a warm flannel, and placed near a fire or in a wooden box in a gently heated oven of a common stove. Where the flock is large, and the kitchen is not within reach, the shepherd should have the conveniences of a shed and an old cooking-stove in which he can keep a fire sufficient to heat the water bath, and provide a warm bed in the oven for any SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 391i lamb that may need such attention; if the flock numbers several hun- dred head in all, there will seldom be a day in our changeable spring seasons when there will not be one or more patients to be treated.’’— ALLEN. Constipation in Lambs. This occurs quite frequently with lambs, and when constipation is present, the dung is scanty and passed at long intervals in glazed hard lumps. The lamb shows pain during passage by arching its back and a peculiar but expressive action. To relieve every six hours inject into the rectum warm water which has been mixed with a half-ounce of linseed-oil. Two or three injections are usually all that will be necessary. Feed the lamb on linseed gruel, sweetened with molasses, Spasmodic Colic in Lambs. This is shown by severe pains, occurring spasmodically. ‘The lamb falls and struggles, or remains with its eyes fixed. This generally accompanies constipation and always in- digestion. To relieve the spasms give the following mixture with a spoon: one dram tincture of Rhubarb; one dram carbonate of soda; two ounces of warm water sweetened with molasses. After the spasms are relieved, give half an ounce of linseed-oil. Weaning Lambs. Do not remove the lambs from their dams abruptly. It is injurious to both. It forces the lambs to load their stomachs with food which they are not strong enough to digest, thereby causing them to stop growing by a stinting of food and a nervous irrita- tion consequent upon their sudden deprivation. The dams in full flow of milk being deprived of relief, are liable to have the udder engorged which is followed by congestion. This shock is very injurious and consequently produces inflammatory disorders of the blood or garget. To avoid these ill effects of a sudden change, remove the lambs to another pasture, quite a distance away, giving them as companions the dry ewes and wethers of the flock. A new pasture will cause them to forget their dams and they being so far distant that they do not hear their bleating, will remain quiet. At night turn them into the fold with the ewes whose full udders they will soon relieve. Place the ewes on a short pasture and deprive them gradually of any extra food hitherto given them and in a couple of weeks their supply of milk gradually decreases, and the lambs may be weaned with perfect safety to themselves and the ewes. ‘‘After having been weaned, the lambs should have the first choice of pasture and the best and tenderest cuttings of the fodder crops. Many 392 SHEEP HUSBANDRY. farmers have found it advantageous in every way to turn newly weaned lambs into a field of corn in the month of August. The corn is too far grown to be injured, the suckers only will be nibbled by the lambs, and the weeds which grow up after the corn is laid by, will be eaten closely. ‘The lambs also have the benefit of a cool shade, and where such a field can be conveniently applied to this purpose, there are several reasons why it might well be done. The condition of the ewes must not be neglected at this time. The chief danger is in regard to those that are heavy milkers. Such sheep should be closely watched, and the milk drawn by hand from those whose udders are not emptied by the lambs. The first approach to hard- ness or heat in the udder should be remedied by an immediate dose of an ounce of epsom salts dissolved in water, and mixed witha tea-spoonful of ground ginger. The next two days twenty grains of saltpetre should be given each morning and evening, to increase the action of the kid- neys. ‘These remedies will generally relieve the udder, and will tend to greatly reduce the secretion of milk. If hay is given in place of grass, and the ewe confined in a cool darkened pen, the drying up of the milk will be hastened.”’ Vermicular Bronchitis. This disease is caused by a white thread- fikeworm, the Strongylus filaria, commonly called the lung worm or ‘‘lung strangle.’’ The symptoms are those of bronchitis with the exception that the whole herd is affected, and mucus is coughed up and the above described worms either singly or in bundle are found. A husky cough is followed by a dry, staring coat, difficult breathing and advancing emaciation, with diarrhea. This disease when appearing in lambs is called ‘‘ Hoose.’’ Treatment. Feed liberally on roots, oats, beans, and linseed cake, to which may be added a mixture of equal parts of gentian, ginger, and sulphate of iron in the proportion of a scant 1% ounce to each lamb three months old and over, every other day. Free access to salt and abundant dry feed is indicated. For the worms a teaspoonful of salt and oil of turpentine in milk should be given every other day before eating. SWINE. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE VARIOUS BREEDS. Their Diseases and How to Cure Them. ROOTING, AND ITS PREVENTION, SOWS EATING THEIR PIGS, CURING AND PRESERVING, SWINE BREED- ING AND FEEDING. HE importance and value of the swine to the people of the United States is shown by the statistics of the last census. Here by care- fully prepared tables the income is shown to be equal to that de- rived from the sale of cattle. There are few people who are aware that nearly one-half of the swine in the world are reared and fattened in this country. Nearly every farmer keeps a few swine, to which he feeds much to the by-products, which would otherwise go to waste. Others produce for the market, and it is of importance to them to get as much profit out of the few or many as possible. This can only be done by a thorough understanding of the peculiar characteristics of the various breeds and the advantages to be derived from each variety. Then studying the conditions about which you will be compelled to surround your animals, you can determine the value to you of the various breeds. It is cer- tainly a well established fact, that a breed exactly suited to the wants of farmers in one locality might not be suited to the needs of those in other portions of the country who make pork for a different purpose and under widely different circumstances and for different markets. And further the man who raises only one or two pigs for his own consumption, and keeps them the whole of their lives in a small pen, wants a different breed from the man who has large hog pazsures. 394 SWINE. The Berkshires. From 1820 to 1833 this breed was largely im- ported into the United States and sold at exorbitant prices. But the careless neglectful system of farming then so common, caused the breed to lose the good qualities given them by the English, who at that time gave them careful management as regards both their breeding and feeding. The breed so deteriorated that the farmers became prejudiced and for years afterwards would hardly accept a Berkshire as a gift. But at the close of the Civil war new importation of the finest speci- mens of English bred Berkshires that could be found, were made. The character of farming having changed from back-woods to more modern, and the good qualities of the Berkshires becoming known, they have become as popular to-day as they were despised sixty years ago. Their good qualities may be stated as follows: Great vitality, which renders them less liable to disease than many other breeds. They have great muscular power and are very active. They have good digestive and assimilating power. They therefore return a large amount of fat and flesh for the quantity of food eaten. ‘The sows are careful mothers, good sucklers and are very prolific. The pigs at birth are strong and active and therefore are not liable to mishaps. They are easily fattened at any age for market, yet can be fed to any reasonable weight. There flesh is of a very fine quality. They are uniform in color, markings, and quality. The male when used as a cross transmits the good qualities of the breed to its progeny. Characteristics. The ‘‘Swine Breeders’’ Convention at New York gave the following as a good description of the characteristics and markings of the Berkshires: Color black, with white on feet, face, tip of tail, and an occasional splash of white on the arm; while a small spot of white on some other part of the body does not argue an impurity of blood, yet it is to be discouraged to the end that uniformity of color may be attained by breeders; white upon one ear, or a bronze or copper spot on some part of the body argues no impurity, but rather a reappearance of original colors. Markings of white other than those named above are suspicions, and a pig so marked should be rejected. Face short, fine, and well dished, broad between the eyes; ears generally almost erect, but sometimes inclining forward with advancing age, small, SWINE. 395 thin, soft, and showing veins; jowl full; neck short and thick; shoulder short from neck, to middling deep from back down; back broad and straight, or a very little arched; ribs—long ribs, well sprung, giving rutundity of body; short ribs of good length, giving breadth and level- ness of loins; hips good length from point of hip to rump; hams thick, round, and deep, holding their thickness well back and down to the hocks; tail fine and small, set on high up; legs short and fine, but straight and very strong, with hoofs erect, legs set wide apart; size medium; length medium, extremes are to be avoided; bone fine and compact; offal very light; hair fine and compact; skin pliable. The Bershires are hardy, prolific, and excellent nurses; their meat is of superior quality, with fat and lean well mixed. Size. There have been improved Berkshires, both in England and America, whose dead weight, dressed, occasionally exceeded eight hundred pounds; but the general weight, full grown, is from three hundred to six hundred pounds, according as the smaller or larger pigs are selected from the litters for fattening, and as they are subsequently fed and attended. The smaller sizes mature several months the quickest, and are preferred in the markets for fresh pork; and for curing also, for those who are particularly nice in the choice of their meat, find their meat more tender and delicate than the larger animals. Quality of Meat. The meat of the improved Berkshire, like that of the unimproved, abounds in a much greater proportion of sweet, ten- der, juicy lean, well marbled with very fine streaks of fat, than other breeds of swine; but the former is far more delicate now, than the latter ever was. This renders the whole carcass the most suitable of all for smoking. ‘The hams and shoulders almost entirely lean, a thin rim of fat covering only the outside. Maturity. The improved Berkshire can be fattened at any age. Barrows mature in twelve to eighteen months, according as selected from the litters, whether the largest or smallest, and as subsequently fed and treated. It takes boars and sows reserved for breeding about six months longer to get their fullest size and weight, as they are not pushed by high feed so rapidly as those destined for more immediate slaughter. The Suffolks. F. D. Coburn, in ‘‘Swine Husbandry,’’ has the fol- lowing to say regarding this breed: “The Suffolks are not raised pure, or used as a cross in the principal pork producing States so extensively as several other breeds. nor are they so well known to a majority of farmers, who have a belief, 11 not 396 SWINE. positive knowledge, that they are rather delicate, and difficult to raise. The objections to them are, that they are not large enough, not satis- factory as breeders and nurses, and that their skins are too tender, aud thinly haired, to withstand the exposure to which the average farmer’s hogs are subjected. As to size, the best strains of Suffolks are large enough for those who prefer to raise hogs of medium weights, while for quietness and easy keeping qualities, no breed of swine can excel them, and to those who like pets, we would recommend a cleanly-kept Suffolk pig in preference toany ‘‘poodle,’’ or other diminutive canine we ever saw. ‘The sows FIRST PRIZE ENGLISH MIDDLE-WHITE Sow. are not so prolific, so regular as breeders, nor usually so good sucklers as others that mature less early, and not so predisposed to excessive fat- ness while young. Experience with the Suffolks has convinced many that wind, sun, and mud, make sad work for their tender, papery skins, and we have seen them, when reasonably well kept, become chapped and cracked all over, and the smaller pigs so mangy and sore as to present the appearance of a solid scab. Of course, all Suffolks are not so affected, and we think that in many localities, they are no more liable to suffer in this way than any other white breed. The climate of some Western and Southern States is unmistakably severe on white hogs, not well haired, and when SWINE. 397 such are constantly exposed to biting frosts, drying winds, and scorch- ing sun, the results will, in most cases, be anything but satisfactory, and the balance will be found on the wrong side of the ledger. As now bred, we can not look upon them as a reasonably profitable hog for general use, but Suffolk boars can be used to good advantage on many farms where white hogs are preferred, and more refinement is desired.”’ Further Description. Mr. Wentworth, in a communication to the “Prarie Farmer,’’ says. “I read, with great interest, the report of the committee at the late th PRIZE ENGLISH MIDDLE-WHITE PIGS. Swine Breeder’ Association upon the characteristics of the Suffolk hogs. I have had them exclusively for the past eighteen years, and my sales will average one hundred every year for the past ten years, and I think I have haa all the importations represented in my herd. There is a liability in all Suffolks to have round bluish spots upon their skins, although covered with white bristles, and these spots seem to in- crease with age. My present boar was selected for me by Mr. Harrison, Secretary of the New York State Agricultural Society. When he ar- rived, aged about six months, he was spotless, and so continued until about two years of age, and then bluish spots of the size of an old- tashioned silver dollar commenced growing upon him. Now, at four years of age, he has about twenty of them, although the bristles cov- 398 SWINE ering them are white. Of course, these spots are exceptions, not one in ten having them, and very few inside of one year old; yet there is a tendency to them and no hog should be rejected as a pure Suffolk on their account. ‘These spots are easily detected from black spots. At one of the State Fairs at Chicago, one of my boars not only took the first premium as the best Suffolk, but the sweepstake prize as the best boar or any age or breed upon the ground. He had several of these spots upon him at that time, although having none until he was a year old. I notice these bluish spots occasionally upon hogs at the stock yards, which have, in all respects, characteristics of the Suffolks. A correspondent of yours, whilst finding fault with the size of the Suffolk, thinks they are the best for crossing upon other hogs. I know this to be the invariable opinion of men who want a breed of hogs of their own, independent of everybody else. Wherever they start, whatever may be their groundwork, before they get through making their new breed of hogs they invariably incorporate somewhere a cross of the Suffolk. Your paper says that four hundred is the profitable size of the hog. The Suffolks can easily be made to weigh this amount, by feeding them lightly until their legs have acquired sufficient strength to support their weight of carcass. The inferior weight attributed so often to Suffolks arises entirely from overfeeding them when young.’’ Characteristics. The characteristics and markings are as fol- lows : ‘‘Head small, very short; cheeks prominent and full; face dished; snout small and very short; jowl fine; ears short, small, thin, upright, soft, and silky; neck very short and thick, the head appearing almost as if set on front of shoulders; no arching of crest; chest wide and deep— elbows standing out; brisket wide but not deep; shoulders thick, rather upright, rounding outwards from top to elbow; crops wide and full; sides and flanks, long ribs, well arched out from back, good length be- tween; shoulders and hams, flanks well filled out, and coming well down at ham; back broad, level, and straight from crest to tail, no fall- ing off or down at tail; hams wide and full, well rounded out, twist very wide and full all the way down; legs small and very short, standing wide apart, in sows just keeping belly from the ground; bone fine ; feet small, hoofs rather spreading; tail small, long, and tapering; skin thin, of a pinkish shade, free from color; hair fine and silky, not too thick; color of hair pale yellowish white, perfectly free from any spots or other color; size small and medium.” * SWINE. 399 Essex. Coburn on swine has the following to say regarding this breed: ‘“The Essex breed of swine is comparatively unknown among the farmers of the Mississippi Valley, and we have no knowledge of their being raised in any considerable numbers for pork. Still in some local- ities, they are bred in a limited way (more, perhaps in Kentucky, than elsewhere) and we have never encountered a person who has once tried them, who did not place a high estimate on their value as a small breed, and especially on the boars to use for crossing on sows of larger breeds. They seem to be essentially the same as Suffolks, except in their black color, and less liability to skin diseases, which would in a AN tint 4 it il tt i nad A I oth PRIZE ESSEX BOAR. majority of cases make them the favorites over their white com- petitors. We think that there is small probability of the Essex swine, as now bred, ever becoming the prevailing breed, from the fact that they are a smaller class of hogs than most farmers care to raise, or packers to buy and handle, and we deem it improbable that the next fifty or hun- dred years will witness the raising of smaller swine, generally, than the Berkshires, and it is more than likely that in the future, the happy medium will be an animal in size between the best modelled small- boned Berkshire and the coarser Poland-Chinas of the present time.’' me 406 SWINE. Characteristics. The Essex is a black hog, originating in the south of England. ‘They are of small to medium in size, and are exten- sively used in England to cross on the large, coarse swine, to improve their fattening qualities. The best specimens may be known as follows: Color black; face short and dishing; ears small, soft, and stand erect while young, but coming down somewhat as they get age; carcass long, broad, straight, and deep; ham heavy and well let down; bone fine; carcass, when fat, composed mostly of lard; hair, ordinarily rather thin. ‘The fattening qualities be- ing very superior. As breeders and nurses, they are very fair, though not equal to the Berkshires. In fact, all thorough-bred animals, as they become refined, or ‘‘high bred,’’ lessen their fecund propensities to a greater or less ex- tent; but ordinarily, with good management, no serious difficulty need be experienced on this point with well bred Essex. It is essential, how- ever, that the brood sows be matured, and not permitted to become too fat, which latter is often apt to be the case, with good feed and man- agement. Good pasture, with plenty of water, will keep them in excellent con- dition for breeding, throughout the whole grazing season. In fact, they often come out of a good clover field in the fall, ‘‘killing fat,’’? without having had any other feed. They are good graziers, and have the ad- vantage over some of the more tender-skinned white hogs, of being able to withstand, (at any age, however young, ) the hottest sun of July or August, without having their backs or skin in the least affected, and they are never known to scald or mange. The young pigs of the Essex are usually more delicate than those of the coarser breeds, and will appear quite inferior to the latter, at the same age, up to eight or ten weeks, when they will begin to shoot ahead, and ‘‘show their breeding.’’ ‘This is not alwavs the case, but often is, and is attributed to the mothers not being such good mikers as some other kinds. It seems to be their nature to run to fat rather than milk. Poland China. The history of this well-known breed was pre- sented at the National Swine Breeders’ Convention, and the following was adopted as authentic: ‘In the early history of swine-breeding in the Miami Valley, in Ohio, it is clear, from the best written authorities available, and from oral tes- timony, that there were two breeds, which to a great extent had been SWINE. 401 profitably crossed with the common bristled breed of the country. These were the Russia and Byfield breeds. The Bedford breed is also named in connection with the other two. ‘To what extent it was used, can not now be readily determined. In 1816, we have positive proof from an unquestioned source, that the Shakers of Union Village, situated in Warren county, Ohio, and being four miles from Monroe, in Butler county, purchased at Philadelphia one boar and three sows of what was at the time believed to be pure China. ‘They were represented to be either imported or the immediate descendants of imported stock. They were called ‘Big China hogs.’ These animals were the first China hogs ever brought into south- POLAND-CHINA. western Ohio. Subsequently other China hogs were introduced and extensively used. The Shakers and other judicious breeders in Warren and Butler coun- ties, continued to use the breeds at command, and produced by repeated crosses a hog of exceeding fine qualities, for that period, which was gen- erally known as the ‘Warren County Hog.’ These hogs centinually in- creasing in good qualities, were bred in both counties, and the very best specimens were carefully and interchangeably used so as to make the best crosses. Such was the progress that had been made in forming the groundwork 402 SWINE, of a good specimen of a hog. This condition of the breed continued until about the year 1835 or 1836, when Mr. Munson Beach, of Warren county, first introduced the Berkshire, which was obtained from C. N. Bement, of the state of New York; other lots of Berkshires continued to flow into the Miami Valley until about 1841. The Berkshire blood was liberally introduced into the stock existing in, not only southwestern Ohio, but in Kentucky also. Crossing with emer "Blick Bean ao Seay Creat Nisten A PRIZE LITTER. . the Berkshires was almost exclusively done until about 1838 or 1839, when Mr. Wm. Neff, of Cincinnati, imported some choice specimens of the Irish Grazier. ‘This breed soon grew into high favor, and as a con- sequence, was liberally used in making crosses with the best specimens of the crosses previously made. This intermingling of blood, this cross- ing of breeds continued for some time. In a few years, however, the use of the purer blooded Berkshire was entirely discontinued, and there SWINE. 493 were no further importations made of the Irish Grazier. The breeders of swine in the Miami Valley settled down to the conviction that the basis of a good breed of hogs had been established, and’ that in the fu- ture judicious and discriminating breeders could use, and if necessary modify, the material furnished, so as to meet the highest demands of public. For more‘than thirty years no new blood has been introduced into our breed, and no effort made to obtain a new supply of the blood of either breed previously used. While this is true, our breeders have not been indifferent to the fur- ther improvement of our breed. Stimulated by their success, they have perseveringly aimed to improve what they have been so successful in forming. The best points or qualities have been preserved, and, where practicable, have been made even more excellent. All defective points or undesirable qualities have been corrected or improved by the care, skill, and judgment of our experienced breeders. Thus, we have a breed thoroughly established, or fixed characteristics, of fine style, and unquestioned good qualities, which can be relied upon for the production of a progeny of like qualities and character. Characteristics. The best specimens have good length, short legs, broad, straight backs, deep sides, flanking well down on the leg, very broad, full square hams and shoulders, drooping ears, short heads, wide between the eyes, of spotted or dark color; are hardy, vigorous, and vrolific, and when fat are perfect models all over, pre-eminently combin- ing the excellences of both large and small breeds.”’ Victorias. The family of pigs known as Victorias originated with Col. Frank D. Curtis, Kirby Homestead, Charlton, Saratoga county, New Vork. They were made by crossing the Byfield hogs with the native, in which there was a strain of the Grazier. Subsequently crosses were made with the Yorkshire and Suffolk; the result being a purely white hog, of medium size. The name hasno significance, unless it is intended as a compliment to the English Queen. The pigs if pure bred, should have a direct descent from a sow called Queen Victoria, which may be said to be the mother of the family. She was pronounced by good judges, to be almost perfect, and was the winner of a number of first prizes. Breeders in the Eastern states have long felt the want of a medium-sized white hog, with all the good points of the English breeds, without their objectionable features; a breed which would mature early, and be covered with a good coat of hair to protect it from the cold in winter and heat in suimmer. Col. Curtis began breeding nearly twenty 404 SWINE. years ago to try and meet this want. At the fair of the New York State Agricultural Society which was held at Elmira, he exhibited a sow, Princess Alice, and six pigs, which was the first time the Victorias have been presented at a State fair for competition with other swine. The first prize was awarded to the pigs, and the second to the sow. Characteristics. The color is white, with a good coat of fine soft hair; the head thin, fine, and closely set on the shoulders; the face slightly dishing; the snout short; the ears erect, small, and very light or thin; the shoulders bulging and deep; legs short and fine; the back broad, straight, and level, and the body long; the hams round and swell- ing, and high at the base of the tail, with plaits or folds between the thighs; the tail fine, and free from wrinkles or rolls; feathers or rosettes on the back are common; the skin is thin, soft, and elastic; the flesh fine-grained and firm, with sinall bone and thick side-pork. The pigs easily keep in condition, and can be made ready for slaughter at any age. Durocs. There is another family of heavy hogs called Duroc, which are bred in Saratoga county, New York, which are finer in the bone and carcass than the Reds. They have been bred, with their crosses, in that region of thecountry, for about twenty years. They are very hardy, and grow to a large size. Characteristics. The true Duroc or Jersey Red should be long, quite deep-bodied, not round, but broad on the back, and holding the width well out to the hips and hams. The head should be small, com- pared with the body, with the cheek broad and full, with considerable breadth between the eyes. The neck should be short and thick, and the face slightly curved, with the nose rather longer than in the English breeds; the ears rather large and lopped over the eyes and not erect. Bone not fine, nor yet coarse, but medium. The legs medium in size and length, but set well under the body and well apart, and not cut up high in the flank or above the knee. The hams should be broad and full well down to the hock. There should be a good coat of hair of medium fineness, inclining to bristles at the top of the shoulders; the tail being hairy and not small; the hair usually straight, but in some cases a little wavy. The color should be red, varying from dark, glossy, cherry red, and even brownish hair, to light yellowish red, with occasionally a small fleck of black on the belly and legs. The darker shades of red are preferred by most breeders, and this type of color is the most desirable. In disposition they are remarkably mild and gentle. When full grown SWINE. 405 they should dress four hundred to five hundred pounds, and pigs at nine months old should dress from two hundred fifty to three hundred pounds. Cheshire, or Jefferson County Swine. These hogs originated in Jefferson county, New York, and it is claimed by some of the breeders that they started from a pair of pigs bought of Mr. Woodford, of Albany, New York, which were called Cheshires. However that may be, there is no such distinct breed of hogs known as Cheshires, in England, and there is no record of any hogs of this name having been imported into this country. ay f MSM . Zi y) Pride of Oxford. PRIZB PIGA. Somann 2nd ENGLISH SMALL WHITE PRIZE PIGS, USUALLY CALLED THE SMALL YORKSHIRES. Yorkshires have been imported into Jefferson county from time to time, and the so-called Cheshires have been improved by crossing with their best hogs bought in Canada. Mr. A. C. Clark, of Henderson, was, for a number of years, a prominent breeder of these pigs, and when- ever he found a pig better than those he owned, he purchased it and crossed it upon his own stock. In this way this family of hogs have been produced, and they are known and bred in mauy portions of the United States. 406 SWINE. Vhey are pure white, with a very thin skin of pink color, with little hair; are not uniform in this respect, as pigs in the same litter differ widely in the amount of hair; the snout is often long, but very slender and fine; the jowls are plump and the ears erect, the shoulders are wide, and the hams full; the flesh of these hogs is fine-grained, and they are commended on account of the extra amount of mess pork in proportion to offal; the tails of the pigs frequently drop off when young. Jersey Reds. The positive origin of this family of swine is un- known. They have been bred in portions of the state of New Jersey, for upwards of fifty years, and with many farmers are considered to be a valuable variety. They are of large size and capable of making a heavy growth, five hundred and six hundred pounds weight being common. THE “‘LARGE WHITE’’ BREED SOW, HOLYWELL QUEEN. Mr. David Pettit, of Salem county, N. J., has known of these hogs for thirty years, and Mr. D. M. Brown, of Windsor, for nearly fifty years. They are now extensively bred in the middle and southern portions of New Jersey. In some neighborhoods they are bred quite uniform, being of a dark-red color, while in other sections they are more sandy, and often patched with white. They are probably descendents from the old importations of Berkshires, as there is no record of the Tamworth, the red hogs of England, ever having been brought into this country; nor is this likely, as the Tamworth were not considered a valuable breed, and' SWINE. 407 were confined to a limited breeding. ‘The Reds resemble the old Berk- shires in many respects, but are now much coarser than the improved swine of the breed. Characteristics. A good specimen of Jersey Red should be red in color, with a snout of moderate length, large lop-ears, small head in proportion to the size and length of the body; they should be long in the body, standing high and rangy on thin legs, bone coarse; heavy tail and brush; hair coarse, including the bristleson the back. They are valuable on account of their size and strong constitution and capacity for growth. They are not subject to mange. Chester Whites. ‘‘The Chester County White hog is a native of Chester county, Pennsylvania, where the breed originated. ‘The first impulse to the improvement of swine in this country was induced by the introduction of a pair of very fine white pigs, brought from Bedfordshire, England, by Captain James Jeffries, of this county, and put upon his farm on the Brandywine Creek, near Westchester, the county seat inthe year 1818. Some of our most enterprising farmers, seeing these finely- bred pigs, were induced to commence an improvement of their swine by a cross of these, their progeny, and others of the best hogs of the county, and by continuing a careful selection and judicious crossing for many years, have produced the Chester White of to-day, a most desirable, well- formed, good-sized, easily fattened, and perhaps the best bacon hog for the general farmer in this or any other country.’’—Thomas Wood, in Swine Husbandry. Characteristics. Head short, broad between the eyes; ears thin, projecting forward and lap at the point; neck short and thick; jowl large; body lengthy and deep, broad on back; hams full and deep; legs short, and well set under for bearing the weight; coating thinnish white, straight, and if a littly wavy not objectionable; small tail, aud no bristles. Yorkshires. ‘‘Their color and characteristics have been traced, in a greater or less degree, into every popular breed of swine which has been made up or attempted to be established as thorough-bred, either in the United States or England; indeed, into every breed, save the Essex, or Neapolitan, imported by Lord Western. ‘These are the only pure bred black hogs either in this country or the old. It may safely be said of these white hogs, that they are the only pure and distinct breed of hogs or pigs, save the black, that are now bred on this continent. All breeds in this country of mixed colors are what their color indicates— 408 SWINE mixed or cross bred, hence not pure and distinct breeds. That this is correct, is fully established by the history of each popular breed, as given by the breeders themselves, as well as by Youatt, Harris, and others, who have given detailed accounts of how each valuable breed has been formed. Nearly or quite all of these breeds are indebted for many of their valuable qualities to their crosses with the Yorkskire and other white English and China hogs. And among the breeds so indebted are the Chester White, the Berkshire, and the Magie, or Poland-China. All these breeds seem to have borrowed some of their good qualities from these original white hogs, and all are made up from crosses of the white and black hog; hence the character of the English or white hog crops out occasionally in almost every breed known in this country or Eng- land. Accordingly, it may be said that they are the purest breed of hogs, and the best in this country or England from which to make crosses in forming a new or reliable breed. The English white hogs, like other breeds, vary much in size, from the large hog to the China pig, so that the breeder can change the size of his stock, or the coat it wears from a heavy coat of hair to the short and smooth, to suit his fancy or the condition of the climate in which he lives. All white hogs are noted for possessing quiet dis- positions. The Cumberland, a middle-bred Yorkshire, have, we think, attained nearer perfection than any other breed known to us. The are not gen- erally distributed throughout the west, but when through-bred speci- menus have been introduced, they are held in great esteem, as well for an animal for exhibition purposes, as for family use. They are special favorites with packers, who buy their stock on foot, for the reason that they yield larger proportionate net weights than any other hogs which grow large enough for their use. They are small in bone, but large in flesh, of the very best quality, evenly and proportionally spread over the whole frame.’’ CURING AND PRESERVING. ‘*To cure meat of any kind, it is desirable to have it from animals that, before slaughter, were in a considerable degree matured, or had attained their natural growth. After dressing, as before intimated, the first requisite is temperature so low the eggs cannot hatch, the Jatter being not often practicable. SWINE. 409 The season of the year, in which meats may becured on the farm with the best success, is from December 15th to February 15th, the interval between these dates affording two indispensable conditions, viz: cool weather and immunity from insects and pests. Pork is cut to suit the demands of the different markets in which it is sold, and the various uses for which it is intended, but the aim should, in all cases, be to have it in such form as to pack snugly, and we re- peat, never pack down until thoroughly cooled throughout. Where it is intended to use brine, the meat may be packed in layers; salt, at the rate of eight pounds to each hundred pounds of pork, is to be sprinkled evenly over.and around each layer, until the cask is full; then clean rain or other pure water, is poured in, until all the interstices are filled and the meat thoroughly covered. None of the meat should, at any time, be allowed to remain above the brine, and in open casks, or tubs, some attention will be necessary to keep weights so arranged as to hold it under. Many persons prefer to prepare the brine by adding to the salt some sugar, or molasses, and saltpeter, dissolving these in the water, and pouring the pickle over the packed meat. A very good recipe is as fol- lows: for one hundred pounds of pork take four ounces saltpeter, three pints common molasses, or two pounds brown sugar, and seven pounds clean salt; when thoroughly dissolved, pour over the meat, which it will cover if properly packed. Many boil the pickle before using it, as the impurities from the salt, sugar, etc., will rise, and can be skimmed off; when this is done, the brine should be thoroughly cool, before add- ing it to the meat. Hams and shoulders, to keep well afterwards should be in pickle from one to two months; the length of time depending on their thickness. For curing them without brine, a favorite recipe is: twelve pounds fine salt, two quarts molasses, one-half pound powdered saltpeter; when these are well mixed, they will have about the consistency and appear- ance of damp brown sugar, and will be sufficient for one hundred and fifty pounds of meat. Rub hams and shoulders thoroughly with the mixture, and lay singly on a platform in a cool, dry place. At the end of the first, and of the second week, rub them again as at first, and then expose to continuous smoke for ten days. A simpler way, in which any portion, or all, of the hog’s carcass can be cured, is to put a layer of, say, half an inch of salt on a platform, floor, or the bottom of a large box, or cask, then a layer of meat, on this 410 SWINE. a liberal sprinkling of salt, and so on, until all is packed and the top well covered with salt. Such portions as are not to be smoked, should be stored in brine be- fore insects appear, and the smoked meat may, like the hams of com- merce, be covered securely with canvass, and whitewashed, or packed well in bran, dry ashes, oats, or shelled corn. For considerable quanti- ties, packing in tight barrels is a good plan, and for family use, a swing- ing shelf, with sides and ends covered with wire cloth, inside of which the pieces are hung, is convenient, and is also secure against rats and mice, as well as insects.’’—Coburn in Swine Husbandry. SOWS EATING THEIR PIGS. It is well known that sows not unfrequently attack and destroy their young; or, if prevented in this will not let down their milk, so that the young pigs necessarily die for want of nourishment. When this con- dition of things is not caused by a diseased condition of the uterus, it is said that the sow can be brought to terms by pouring a mixture of ten to twenty drops of spirits of camphor, with one to three drops of tinc- ture of opium, into the ear. The sow will immediately lie down on the side to which the application was made, and remain quiet in this posi- tion for several hours, without interfering with her pigs; and on recov- ery from her stupor, will have lost her irritability in regard to them. The experiment has been tried in Germany hundreds of times, accord- ing to one of the agricultural journals, without any injurious effects. It is also said that the eating of pigs by the parent sow can be readily pre- vented by rubbing thei all over with brandy, and making the same ap- plication about the nose of the sow herself, or saturate a small woolen cloth with kerosene and carefully moisten the hair of the pigs with it, but be cautious to not get much of it on their tender skins. Usually the kerosene dressing will spoil the sow’s relish for raw pig. DISEASES AND HOW TO CURE THEM. Mange. Mange, itch, or scab, in the lower animals is a skin dis- ease of a purely local nature, due to an insect which induces irritation, ulceration, suppuration, and incrustation on the surface of the body generally. It is a contagious disease, never originating spontaneously, SWINE. 4il and requiring for its development the passage of the parasites or their eggs from diseased to healthy animals. In men, this disease is termed “the itch,’’ and in the lower animals it is usually alluded to as ‘‘mange”’ and in sheep it is well known as a fearfully destructive disease, under the name of ‘‘scab.’’ The mange of the pig is due to the presence of a burrowing sarcoptes. Sarcoptes suis is much like the human sarcoptes and the horse sarcop- tes. Itch and mange are known to be essentially skin diseases, curable alone by topical remedies; and the medicines used are valuable almost in proportion to the rapidity with which they destroy the life of the parasites which give rise to the irritation and other morbid appearances. In treating the mange we should first cover the body with soft soap, and wash it off some time afterwards with warm water, and have the animal well brushed; or a wash may be used, consisting of one part caustic potash to fifty parts of water; or one part of creosote to forty parts of oil, well mixed; or sulphuret of potassium in water, in the pro- portion of one to ten parts; or a decoction of tobacco, in the ratio of one to twenty-five; or lastly, concentrated vinegar. One or two days after the thorough application of either one of these preparations, wash the body well with soap and water or potash lye. When scabies is treated, it is essential to purify all objects with which animals can come in con- tact. Thus, all rubbing-places and sties should have a covering of lime, or chloride of lime. The sties should be cleaned out entirely, or the pigs removed for a few months to a new pen. Recipe For Mange Ointment. Melt half a pound of common turpentine with a pound anda half of Lard. Stir well therein a pound of flowers of sulphur, and when cool, rub down upon a marble slab, two ounces of strong mercurial ointment with these. Pigs Losing Their Tails. Pigs occasionally have their tails frozen, which causes them to drop off, or may result from an hereditary tendency toa disease of the skin which attacks the young pig at that particular point, the circulation is interfered wit and the member per- ishes and drops off. If the disease appears, apply carbolic soap to the affected part, or wash clean, and apply glycerine, sweet oil, or a little fresh lard. The most effectual preventive is to keep pigs clean, dry. and abun- dantly nourished. Inflammation of the Brain, or “Blind Staggers. ‘This dis- ease frequently attacks swine. esnecially when changed to rich, abun- 412 SWINE. dant food, or exposed to stormy, changeable weather. At first the ani- mal appears dull, stupid, and disinclined to move. The eyes become red and inflamed, the bowels constipated, the pulse hard and quick. In a short time, if not relieved, the animal runs wildly about, usually ina circle, seems blind, will run against objects, the breathing becomes rapid and laborious. When a hog is attacked, dash bucketsful of cold water over the body, and throw into the rectum a purgative injection, composed of six ounces of sulphate of soda and one or two tea-spoonsfuls of spirits of turpen- tine in ten ounces of water. Setons saturated with the turpentine may be inserted under the skin behind the ears; or the back of the neck may be blistered by actively rubbing in the following mixture: Spirits of turpentine and liquid ammonia, one ounce of each; powdered cantharides, two drams. When it occurs in summer, or hot weather, its severity can be greatly modified by providing shelter in a shed, where they can be in the shade during the heat of the day; but at the same time a free circu- lation of air should be secured. Water, too, should be constantly within the reach of the animals, and, if possible, a pool of it provided in which they can lie at will. Diarrhea. Many of our swine breeders in the West sustain consid- erable loss annually by their pigs dying from the effects of what is com- monly called scours, caused by the bad quality of the sow’s milk. The disease is more apt to make its appearance when the sow has been fed upon dry corn or musty food. It generally attacks them within one or two days after their birth, and seldom after eight or ten days: Tio cure give the sow as much sulphur of the third decimal trituration as will stand on a nickel five-cent piece, once a day. It may be given ina little sweet milk, or upon a small piece of bread, and should be given one hour before feeding. The medicine can be procured of any Homeepathic physician. Common sulphur will cure, but the above is preferable. Constipation. If swine void hard, dry dung in compact, ball-like masses, it denotes fever, therefore change to more loosening, cooling diet. Any kind of soft, easily digested food is good; bran mashes pre- pared with hot water, or flax-seed tea. In obstinate cases, an ounce of Epsom salts may be given, in an injec- tion of warm soap suds. Lice. The following remedy will clean off lice by a couple of appli- cations. Put about one gill of kerosene in an old dish, and with a paint brush or old woolen rag rub the oil up and down the back of the animal, SWINE. 413 and behind the fore-leg, and on the flank. Be particular about the last two places, for it is where the lice deposit their eggs, which, if not de- stroyed will hatch out in five days. If it be a black hog, these eggs can be plainly seen, being about the size of a timothy seed, and laying elose to the skin fast to the hair. No one need fear to use the oil freely, as it will not injure the hog in the least. HOG CHOLERA AND SWINE PLAGUE. Nearly all diseases of swine are called ‘‘ Hog Cholera’’ by people not familiar with them. Yet there is a destructive plague to which the term hog cholera may be appropriately applied, and another disease which is almost as common and as destructive which is properly termed swine plague. These two diseases are both contagious and of bacterial origin. They resemble each other so very closely in their external symptons that it requires an examination of the internal organs to determine between them, and often then only microscopic study will reveal the difference. These diseases must be fought by measures which will destroy the bacteria, and prevent other animals from coming in contact with the germs. ‘The sick animals must be treated by remedies that will reduce the fever, stop the increase of the germs of disease, and assist the dis- eased organs in resuming their normal functions. While it is important to know that the animal has one of these two diseases, yet it is not important to know which, as the agents used to destroy the germs of the one will destroy the other. In the most acute and severe cases the animals die very suddenly, either before sickness has been observed or after illness of only a few hours. In the greater number of cases the progress of the malady is slower. There is first seen signs of fever, shivering, unwillingness to move, more or less loss of appetite, temperature may reach 106° or 107°, the animals are stupid and dull, and like to hide in the litter and remain covered by it. The bowels may be normal or constipated at the beginning, but later there is a liquid and fetid diarrhcea. The eyes at first watery, but soon have the lids gummed together. The breathing is more rapid than usual and may be labored in the later stages. The animals may cough when driven from their beds. The skin is often congested and red over the abdomen, inner surface of the limbs, under surface of the neck, and on the ears. The color varies from a pinkish red to dark red or purple. 414 SWINE. An eruption is sometimes seen, which leaves crusts or scabs over the skin. There is a rapid loss of flesh, the animal grows weak, stands with arched back and the abdomen drawn up, and walks with a tottering, uncertain gait. There is less and less inclination or ability to move, and the weakness and exhaustion increase until death results. The disease runs from one day to three weeks. The symptons of swine plague in many cases are not noticeably differ- ent from those of hog cholera. Frequently the lungs are extensively imflamed in swine plague, and the breathing is more oppressed and jabored, and the cough more frequent and painful. The best remedy which has been tried is the following: 1 pound Wood Charcoal, 1 pound Sulphur, 2 pounds Sodium Chloride, 2 pounds Sodium Bicarbonate, 2 pounds Sodium Hyposulphite, 1 pound Sodium Sulphate, 1 pound Antimony Sulphide (Black Antimony). The dose is a large tablespoonful for each 200 pounds weight of hogs to be treated, given only once a day. When hogs are affected with these diseases they should have at least once a day soft feed, made by mixing bran and middlings with hot water, and then stirring into this the proper quantity of the medicine. Hogs are fond of this mixture, and when they once taste of food with which it has heen mixed they will eat it though nothing else would tempt them. Animals that are very sick and that will not come to the feed should be drenched with the medicine shaken up with water. Do not turn the hog on its back to drench it, but pull the cheek away from the teeth so as to form a pouch, into which the medicine may be slowly poured, It will flow from the cheek into the mouth, and when the hog finds out what it is, it will stop squealing and swallow. This medicine may also be used as a preventive of these diseases, and for this purpose should be put in the feed of the whole herd. In cases where it has been given a fair trial, it has apparently cured most of the animals which were sick and has stopped the progress of the disease in the herds. It is an excellent appetizer, and when given to unthrifty hogs it increases the appetite, causes them to take on flesh, and assume a thrifty appearance. SWINE. 415 SWINE BREEDING AND FEEDING. “Tt isa true saying ‘that farm stock will be just what its owner makes it.’ It is true of swine to a greater extent perhaps than any other ani- malonthe farm. They can exist under adverse conditions and live with less care than any other stock, except, perhaps, the hen. On the other hand they will more readily respond to good care and feed than any animal we raise on the farm. ‘They can eat anything from dish water to grass and grow upon it, if given something else to fill up the ration. Therefore, by this quality mentioned, he becomes a very valuable animal to the farmer and farm. ‘There has been but little attention paid by the average farmer to the breeding of swine, and less care given to the selection of breeding stock, than any other branch of live stock. Sometimes an enterprising farmer would break away from the custom of keeping runts for breeding stock and buy a thoroughbred male and use it on ordinary sows; but, also, the male from this cross was used by him and his neighbors instead of buying another thoroughbred and using it ots the females of the first cross. But many did not even go as far as this; but were content to keep on breeding the same old razor back, with long legs, narrow chests, thin hams and an ugly disposition—pigs that looked large but weighed light. Now in the breeding of all animals we must have some end in view, so too with the swine. As I am speaking of the breeding of swine for profit, we have first to consider what the market affords. In most markets the demand seems to be for a pig that will weigh when dressed from one hundred to one hundred twenty-five pounds with as much lean meat as we can get. With some packers a one hundred fifty pound pig is more desirable. But heavy hogs seem to be slow sale, and the time when tons of lard would be sold as pork for a big price has passed away. Therefore, in the selection of breeding stock, we should try to get what will weigh from one hundred to one hundred twenty-five pounds, dressed, in the shortest time with the least amount of food. ‘This is not an easy matter, but by a careful and judicious se- lection governed by an unprejudiced study and trial of the different breeds will enable one to come very close to getting the pig which will accomplish this. There are several other things in the breeding of swine that should not be neglected. As a pilot in steering his boat to the har- bor must avoid all breakers, shallows and reefs, so too must the swine breeder, in his effort to get the pig he wants, see that he discards the 416 SWINE. pig with no constitution or one that is unprolific. How many breeders in the effort to shorten the snout of their swine have ruined their strength and vigor? Many more in their haste to broaden the back have very materially shortened the heart girth, and in their effort to make their legs small have made them weak and crooked. Poland-China breeders of the west have a nice-looking, growthy pig; but, as a breeder of them in central New York told me, his litters were from four to seven, and small litters is the complaint of the west. There is also among them a tendency to weak legs. Berkshires have been bred for fineness of bone until they became too small, although in the last few years there has been a great improvement in them. The Chester-Whites have been bred for size until they are made up of masses of fat, to which the butchers object. The Cheshires are a prolific and active breed, but are rather too restless and, also, quite narrow on the back. The Duroc- Jerseys are not as smoothly made as the Berkshire or Poland China, ut in prolificness and quickness of growth will exceed either of them. Either of these, that is the Duroc-Jersey, Berkshires or Poland-Chinas, I would recommend to the farmer to use on ordinary sows, choosing the one which will suit his fancy best. In choosing a male from these breeds select one that has a snout of medium length, a slight dished face, good size heart girth (be careful that there is not much depression back of the shoulders), good length and breadth of back, a good wide space between the front legs with a deep body and good square hams; also lave the flank well down and a set of short, stout and straight legs. The skin should not be thick and wrinkly, but thin and smooth with soft bristles not too thickly set. This kind of a pig can be found better at some reliable breeders, as he and others before him, have been work- ing for years to get this type of a pig, and are, therefore, better prepared to furnish the desired article. But by all means use a thoroughbred sire and on his offspring use another one, thereby raising the quality of your breeding stock. Be sure to start right in this direction so that your feed and care in the future will produce the best results. Having selected your breeding stock, the next thing is the keeping of them. There has been a mistaken idea that breeding swine to do well must be fed only enough to keep them just alive. Now, we know all other breeding stock should be kept in good condition, and swine form no exception. When mated, both the sire and the dam should be in the pink of condition to produce strong and healthy pigs, and during the period of gestation the dam should be well fed on a variety of foods so SWINE, 417 that she may store up food to feed the coming generation. Then, if she is allowed a chance to exercise and good, dry quarters to nest in, barring accidents, she will bring forth a good litter of strong pigs. As the time of farrowing draws near she should be separated from others and given a litter of short rye or wheat straw. Let her be kept as quiet as possible, and if she has been rightly handled she will be gentle and allow any at- tention.that is necessary.. Give her sparingly of food for a few days and increase her ration as you think the demands of her sucklers require. Have the trough long enough so that the pigs can learn to eat. When the pigs are four or five weeks old have, if possible, a pen where they alone have access, and then give them what feed they wiil eat. At two months of age wean them, and if the sow is kept for breeding, let her again mate, which she will do within a week. Now, when the pigs are weaned is the time to be careful. They should be fed at least five times a day on a well-balanced ration, and not much at once, or their stomachs will become distended and indigestion (which will stunt them) will be apt to follow. They should have a nice pasture or orchard to run in, as grass and apples will keep them growing and healthy. A hog’s stomach being very nearly like a man’s; in fact, an old maid once said to her class in physiology ‘the internal organs of a hog are the nearest like a human being of any dumb brute, unlessit bea man.’ That is the reason they do not agree any better, perhaps. For a single food, give skimmed milk; next, wheat middlings. The best pigs can be raised by feeding on wheat bran, corn meal, oil meal and skimmed milk, with arunin pasture and orchard. But the most profit comes to him who feeds the by-products of the farm in connection with a grain ration. Small potatoes, windfall apples, even pumpkins will help put flesh on the pigs. Do not feed much whole grain to a pig, as his teeth soon get sore and it passes the stomach without being digested. But give him just enough to clean his teeth after his soft feed. Never throw his feed in the dirt, for although a hog needs fresh dirt, yet let them take it sepa- rate. Be careful not to overfeed, as it will derange the stomach and the pig becomes restless, rooting and eating stones, and there will be a loss of feed as well as a loss of gain in the weight of the pig. Always make it a rule to have the pig look for more without squealing for it. This only can be done by watching them eat occasionally. To feed a pig all he will eat at any great length of time is always attended with a loss. The ocean steamer to cross the Atlantic a day quicker than the usual time will consume twice the amount of coal besides the extra wear on 418 SWINE. her machinery caused by the high rate of speed. So it is with the high- fed pig, besides the loss of feed there is the extra amount of fat, which is undesirable. Remember, no butcher wants a pig over one hundred fifty pounds, but would rather have them at one hundred pounds. It also costs less to make a pig of that size than one heavier. Experiments show that one hundred pounds of growth can be made, on a pig weighing fifty pounds to start with, by feeding two hundred seventy-three pounds of feed, while it requires four hundred seventy-nine pounds of the same kind of food to make a like gain on a pig that weighs one hundred fifty pounds, and it requires five hundred seventy-one pounds of food to make a one hundred pounds gain on a two hundred fifty pound pig, showing that it costs double to make a pound of pork on a two hundred fifty pound pig that it does on a fifty pound one. So the man who feeds heavy pigs produces what the market does not want at a greater cost than he who feeds light ones. Now, a few words as to the care of swine. Swine are natives of a tropical climate, and are, therefore, sensitive to cold and dampness. Then give them dry, warm quarters with not too much litter. Do not, for the sake of your pocket, allow them to shiver and squeal all through the storms and cold of winter. And last, but not least, do not kick and club them when you wish to drive them, or when driven by hunger they seek to satisfy their wants in forbidden places. But with kindness he will go where you wish him to, and with proper feed and fence will stay where you put him. No domestic animal will respond to kind treatment and good feed quicker than the pig, and no animal will make a pound of flesh with as small a cost as a pig. There is no branch of farming which has brought as much clean profit as pork making; to him who has kept his pigs in clover doubly so. That is, the man who has studied intelligently to supply the wants of his swine.”’ LLEWELLYN LENT. POULTRY DEPARTMENT. How to Make Poultry Keeping Profitable. A CONCISE DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS BREEDS WITH THEIR SPECIAL ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES. OULTRY is raised to a greater or less extent on every farm, and whether they are kept for special profit or only for family use, they should be cared for and thoroughly managed, as well as other departments of the farm, so that whether few or many, a profit may result from the investment of time and money. The farmer has the advantage of plenty of room for his poultry, food for them at first cost, and in return, by grafting this upon his other work without any great extra expense, receives, if he does not care to sell in the market, plenty of eggs for family use, choice young poultry for his table, and a compost to enrich his soil. If the poultry is raised for profit the farmer has the means of getting his produce to market at once, and can contract with hotels and private families, who want only good ‘‘fresh-laid eggs.’’ But this business, like every other kind, to be really successful, requires thought, attention, care, and intelligence, and when these are exercised under proper condi- tions, there is sure to be ‘‘money in it.” Nature’s laws are to be respected if success istofollow. Fowls, when wild, live entirely in the open air, having perfect freedom, and the farmer with his land may approach this condition as far as it is necessary. POULTRY DEPARTMENT. 420 ‘“STMOA NVISQIVAONV POULTRY DEPARTMENT. 421 Description. We here givea short description of the various breeds, together with their characteristics, so that it will be easy to decide which one will be the most suitable for the place where they are to be kept. Andalusians. This is sometimes called the Blue Spanish and is one of the leading varieties of the Spanish group. This group has been de- scribed as follows: “A close, compact, smallish-sized body, placed upon legs of a good length ; the neck rather long, with a fine head; a large, upright-single comb ; in the hen also large, but falling over one side; and the cocks have large sickle-shaped tails.’’ Of course the color of plumage, legs, &c., are different in the several varieties, but the general appearance is as here described. In Andalusians the plumage is slate-colored, but on the cock’s neck and back it is dark purple or nearly black. The birds are of a good size, are prolific layers of large white eggs, are precocious as chickens, very hardy, bear confinement well, are fair table birds when young, can be kept on all fairly dry soils and are non-sitters. In selecting birds at- tention should be paid to size, to erectness of carriage; and any white on the face, which ought to be red, should be avoided, as this indicates a cross with the black Spanish.’’ Brahmas. ‘This breed is one of the most prominent breeds of fowls. It is chiefly valuable for its great size and hardiness, and for laying well in winter. The eggs, which are buff in color, are often small, but are rich in quality. ‘They are not a first-class table fowl, so far as quality of flesh is con- cerned, having more of the flesh laid on the legs than on the breast; but when young they are desirable, especeially when size is considered. For a family fowl they are unequalled, and a large Brahma chicken is a dinner for a fair sized family. ‘There are two varieties of Brahmas, the dark and the light, which are alike, save in color. The bird is of pleasing shape, well-proportioned and handsome. It has deep, massive body, neat head, small pea-comb, and heavily-feathered legs. ‘They are good sitters and mothers, though clumsy when old; are very quiet in habits; moderate layers; and can be kept on any soil. ‘They are so large and the wings so weak they can be kept in bounds with an ordinary fence. Cochin. ‘This was once the most popular breed of all. Cochins somewhat resemble the Brahmas in shape and appearance, but have more feathers and are rather rounder. As winter layers they are fairly good, 422 POULTRY DEPARTMENT. COCHIN, ENGLISH TYPE, POULTRY DEPARTMENT. 423 but in the spring they want to eternally sit, so few eggs are the result. Of all fowls the Cochins are the greatest sitters, and when a Cochin wants to sit, sit she will, even on stones or small blocks of wood, if she has no eggs. They are clumsy and often break the eggs and kill the young chicks. The flesh is coarse and the bones are large, hence they make poor table fowls. There are four colors, buff, black, white, and partridge, all of which look good on exhibition, in fact are handsome, and they are the fowl where appearance, and not utility is looked for. As a commercial fowl the Cochin is very undesirable. Wy a \ WW) BZ LACED WYANDOTTES. Wyandottes. This is a variety of American origin, and one which has won such great favor that it has become one of the most popular, if not the most popular fowl of the present time. It carries the Sebright lacing, and this makes it a very handsome bird, when it approaches any- thing like perfection. The Silver Laced Wyandottes were the first of this deservedly popular variety, but the Golds and the Whites have since made their appearance. ‘The Golds are very rich in color and are very pleasing birds. It is a large breed, with the Asiatic shape, having no feathers on the legs, and a rose comb. Itcombines most of the good qualities, being a good table fowl, a prolific layer, a good sitter and POULTRY DEPARTMENT. 424 ‘“dNVO HSIION G10 POULTRY DEPARTMENT, 425 mother. The average farmer can make no mistake in introducing this admirable bird for general use. Leghorns. ‘This bird has a peculiar history. It is a sub-variety of the Spanish type of fowls, ard being principally bred in Northern Italy, it is all over the continental part of Europe called the Italian fowl. It was brought from Italy to the United States, and then taken again across the water to be introduced into England. This is a breed of utility, and not a breed of fancy points. Originally there were only two varieties, the white and the brown, but to these have been added the black, the cuckoo, the darkwing, and the buff. The Leghorns have a good-sized, single, deeply-cut comb, with saw- tooth edges, which extends down well over the back of the head, and in the hen falls over on one side, in a single fold; the wattles are long and hanging; has white ear-lobes, yellow bill, red face, clean yellow legs, and in the cock a sweeping tail. The body is small, but close and compact, and their general appear- ance is pleasing. BROWN LEGHORNS, the subject of our illustration, have mark- ings much like the brown-red game. In the cock the hackles are golden bay, striped with biack; the back is of general red color, each feather having a brighter bay stripe; the breast is a rich black; their dark red wings are of good size and striped across with bars of bay and a greenish-black; their long sickles are green and black; and their legs are yellow. In the hen the hackles are yellow, striped with brown; the back is brown with slight pencilings; the breast is a light salmon-brown; the remainder of the female bird does not vary much in appearance from the male. The other varieties are named from their general color or peculiarities, and are easily identified. The blacks are self-color, the cuckoos are black and white mixed, the darkwings are very similiar to game, and the buffs have yellow feathers. Leghorns are good layers, and their eggs are fair size, the White Leg- horus laying the largest eggs and the greatest number. They are a hardy fowl, bear confinement well, will thrive on any soil, but are not first-class as a table-bird. They are small eaters, and when at liberty will hunt diligently for food. As a producer of eggs for mar- ket it is one of the best breeds that can be kept. 426 POULTRY DEPARTMENT. BROWN LEGHORNS. POULTRY DEPARTMENT. 427 Game. This is without doubt the oldest of the pure English breeds, and for generations has been bred with great care and skill. In former years game fowls were bred for cock-fighting, and courage and endur- ance were the points most considered. But with a higher standard of taste, and the laws against this cruel pastime, cock-fighting is done away with, except such as is carried on secretly. Unfortunately, the fighting vf fi i 7 | | eee 7 | = le I! Wil [ i INDIAN GAME. qualities remain, and for this reason it is difficult to keep pure bred games. But for crossing purposes they are the very best, because all kinds of games are fair layers, splendid sitters, attentive mothers, have finer eating flesh than any other domestic fowl, are easy to rear, and can be kept on any soil when at liberty. If the crossing is judiciously done these characteristics can be largely retained, and the fighting qualities lessened. 428 POULTRY DEPARTMENT. Minorcas. This is a fowl of Spanish origin, which has been care- fully bred in the south-western part of England. A few years ago their WHITE MINORCAS. great laying qualities attracted the attention of the outside world, and they have become very popular. They are hardy, easily adapt them- selves to all soils and conditions, (whether confined or free to run), pro- duce large eggs in abundance, and get their full growth young. They are one of the most desirable breeds, being great egg producers and non- sitters. ‘They surely merit their position as the first among the laying vreeds of poultry, ‘The Minorcas are called by many ‘‘Red-faced Spanish,’’ because in shape and appearance they much resemble the Black Spanish. It is pos- sible that the two breeds were once the same, both having red faces, but that the Spanish having been bred to produce the white face, lost much of the good qual- ities and strength of the Minorcas, In shape they resem- ble the Leghorns, but have a larger comb, red face, white ear-lobes, and cleanlegs. We give = illustrations of the two RLACK MINORGCAS. kinds, the black and the POULTRY DEPARTMENT. 429 white, but the white are very scarce and not so desirable as the black for general purposes. ‘The black isa fine all-around bird. ‘Their met- alic black plumage makes them a ‘‘bird of beauty.’ They are among the best as layers, and can be kept on any soil, are good fowls to hunt for their food, and small eaters. Black Spanish. This breed is a small eater, a great layer of large eggs, bears confinement well, and formerly merited all that could be said in its favor. It was at one time the most popular of all breeds, but that was before it was ruined by the breeders. ‘The fanciers have bred points, the main one being the white face, until the original bird has lost its strength and become a tender bird. Though bred in this way, it is still a good producer of eggs, but the chick- eus are tender and hard to rear, slow in feathering, and the moulting of the full-sized bird seems to be attended with difficult., and it is not a first-class table bird. There are a few strains which not having been bred for exhibition, retain their old qualities. In these the White face is not prominent, but they are difficult to get. If crossed with tha Black M‘norcas strength will be secured and without injury to the laying qualities. The Black Spanish must be kept warm and in a dry soil. ‘Thechick- ens need special care, and the adult fowl during the moulting season reqttires special treatment. They have bright black plumage, white face, sweeping tail, and Llack legs. The comb is single, laying over in the hen, but erect in the cock. Hamburghs. ‘The Hamburghs have the record of being the bes( laying breed in existence. It is not an unusual thing for the hens ta produce two hundred eggs a year. But asthe eggs are small and the fowls do not bear confinement, they are of little use to the general farmer. They are now generally regarded as the fanciers’ fowl, because of their great beauty. The cock has a neat head, beautiful plumage, close compact shape, sweeping tail, pure ear-lobes, and a handsome, well- shaped rose comb. he hen is rich in color, sprightly in carriage, and WHITE FACED BLACK SPANISH. 430 POULTRY DEPARTMENT. neat and saucy. ‘There are five varieties, the black, the gold penciled, the silver penciled, the gold spangled, and the silver spangled. Of these the most useful are the blacks, being the largest and laying the largest eggs. If this breed is crossed with some other that will increase the size of the eggs, the result will be profitable, provided they are given plenty of room. If confined it needs a very high fence to restrain them, but on a farm where they can run they will do well. A few fowls can of course be kept in a confined position, but where there are sixty or more they need room. Under these conditions the Hamburghs are hardy, easy to raise, and non-sitters, and where the number of eggs is of more import- ance than the size, they make a very useful fowl. White Plymouth Rocks. This useful bird, which originated in old Massachusetts, is very popular wherever it goes. ‘There are three varieties; the barred, white and black. Their bodies are large, the fall- grown bird often weighing from ten to twelve pounds; their legs are yellow and strong; are fair lay- ers of small eggs, rich in flavor; their flesh is tender and sweet, and they have a good supply on the breast. They are very hardy, and can be kept on any soil, and bear be- ing shut in very well. They are fair sitters and good mothers. ‘They are great favorites and compete with the popular Leghorns for first place, as a general utility fowl. WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCKS. Dominique. The Dominiques have not become a fowl of general favor. It has many good qualities and would, if it could be procured pure bred, well pay any one who would raise them. They are of Ameri- can origin, and look some like the Cuckoo Dorkin, but the Dominiques have arosecomb ‘They are a hardy fowl; will thrive on any ordinary soi]; and are good table birds; capital layers; good sitters and mothers, They have the much sought for yellow legs. POULTRY DEPARTMENT. 431 Tanshans. ‘This breed of fowls resembles the Black Cochin, and there is much contention regarding its origin. It was introduced into this country from England. It is an improvement on the Cochin in everything but beauty, since the Langshan is a splendid layer, a fine table bird, not a determined sitter, and a most valuable fowl for general purposes, and the cochin is the opposite of all these. LANGSHANS. The Langshan is a large bird, which has long, slightly feathered legs. It has a single comb standing upright; plumage of a beautiful metalic lustre; very hardy; easily reared; bears confinement; very faithful moth- er; anda fair sitter. It is a very valuable bird, and its beautiful bright plumage makes it very attractive. Dorkings. This is one of the oldest and best preserved of all Eng- lish pure-bred fowls. ‘They are a great table fowl but not great layers. The hens when full grown weigh eight pounds, and the cocks from ten to twelve. Their bones are small and there is great quantities cf flesk on their deep breasts. ‘The birds are tender and while enduring any amount of cold, they can not endure dampness. 432 POULTRY DEPARTMENT. Classification of the Characteristics of the Various Breeds. We herewith classify for convenience the various breeds under their general characteristics. In selecting a variety for profit, all the circum- stances should be considered. "The amount of confinement, the soil, and the care that can be given, are elements that must not be overlooked in selecting the fowls. ‘Then determine whether there is wanted a table fowl, or egg producers or a general-utility breed. A careful study of the conditions and a judicious selection of the stock will be rewarded by profitable results, provided the flock is properly cared for and managed. GOOD LAYERS, TABLE FOWLS, AND SITTERS. Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes, and Langshans. GOOD MOTHERS AND SITTERS. Dorkings, Games, Dominiques, Plymouth Rocks, Langshans, and Wyandottes. NON-SITTING BREEDS. Hamburghs, Minorcas, Leghorns, Andalusians, Houdans, and Spanish. TABLE FOWLS. Dorkings, Houdans, Langshans, Plymouth Rocks and Wyandottes. ON CLAY SOIL. Avorr Dorkings, Spanish, and Polish. CHoosE Minorcas, Leghorns, Houdans, Langshans, Game, Andale: sians, or Wyandottes. FOR VERY CLOSE CONFINEMENT. Minorcas, Leghorns, Houdans, Plymouth Rocks or Wyandottes. THE DISEASES OF POULTRY. Causes. Naturally birds have but few diseases, but there is no doubt but that these few have been greatly fostered and increased by the system of keeping fowls which is now in vogue. The over-feeding upon rich or unsuitable foods, the over-crowding and confinement, and the keeping upon the same ground year after year, the in-breeding for points, the exposure by sending to shows, have a tendency to make birds subject to various diseases to which they formerly were strangers. ft is much better to prevent diseases than to try to cure them after attacking the fowl. POULTRY DEPARTMENT. 433 As a preventive of the spread of diseases, where there is a fair sized flock, it is best to destroy the sick bird immediately, ‘provided there is any indication of a contagious disease. It is somewhat difficult to recognize diseases of chickens, as the bodies are covered with feathers, and there are so few ways in which the dis- eases can be determined. Still there are symptoms to be found accom- panying all diseases that may by a little careful examination be discov- ered, and from these it is possible to determine what is the matter with the fowl. Never let a fowl that shows any signs of illness remain for a minute with the flock. Put the diseased fowl in a separate place, where chlo- ride of lime has been sprinkled. It is well in case of contagious disease breaking out in a flock of birds, to well disinfect the grounds and house. If a fowl is seen moping or refusing its food, remove at once. If the illness proves to be a contagious disease, the remainder of the flock may be kept free, and if it is not, certainly no harm has been done. Crop-bound. Occasionally a fowl is unable to pass the food from the crop into the gizzard, and the crop becomes so filled with food that it hangs like a bag in front of the bird. Although the crop is full, the bird will if not relieved die of starvation, because no food will pass into the stomach, so long as the obstruction continues. Try and soften up the food by pouring some warm milk and water down the throat, and kneading the crop with the hands. If taken in time this usually effects a cure. If it does not, make an incision into the crop, through the skin, and remove the contents with a very small spoon, being careful to remove every particle. Then wash out the crop with warm water, and sew up the incision, first the inside skin, then the outside, with silk or horse hair. Feed the fowl on soft food without water, for a few days and the cure is effected. Gapes. A very common disease of chickens is known as gapes, on account of the constant gaping of the mouth. This is caused by a small worm which gets into the throat, and if not removed by the chicken sneezing or by the hand, the chicken soon dies of suffocation. It is difficult to determine the cause of these worms and where they come from, but it is sufficient for us to know they are there and must be removed. They may sometimes be prevented by applying to the heads of newly-hatched chicks murcurial ointment, but in other cases all efforts to get rid of them are in vain. 434 POULTRY DEPARTMENT. Fumigating with carbolic acid is without doubt the most effectual cure, and where many are affected with it, it is worth considerable trou- ble to save their lives. Another and most common method is to remove the worms by using a small quill feather dipped in turpentine. This is passed into the throat, where it is twisted around and suddenly jerked out, thus removing the worm. ; Some place the chicks in a box or barrel and dust them with fine lime and ashes, which gets into the throats of the chickens, causing them to sneeze and throw out the worms. In fumigating with carbolic acid or dusting, care should be taken not to carry it so far as to suffocate the young birds. Apoplexy. Birds in fine condition are often found lying on the ground in a helpless condition, unable to move or stand. This is apo- plexy, and is caused by overfeeding, by which is meant not only too much food, but also too rich food, especially the latter. Indian corn is a very rich food, and it has been found to be the cause of this disease in many instances. If there is a death in the flock from apoplexy, take it as a warning that the remainder of the flock are sub- ject to the same disease, and if you would save them reduce the food in quantity and quality. ‘The helpless bird may be saved by bleeding on the under side of the wing and by feeding on light food for some time. Feather Eating. This disgusting habit is seldom found among birds that are free to roam, and even in confinement it is principally found in the Asiatic varieties and Houdans. When the habit is once formed it is very difficult to cure, and it is best to remove any bird found with the habit, and if not valuable, kill it; at the same time try to re- move any cause that may exist. Idleness is the great cause, so give the fowls a chance to run, and some fresh soil, in which has been mixed bone meal. Put a small quan- tity of salt in their food and give plenty of water. The following trans- lation from a French Poultry Journal indicates the measures that are most successful toward breaking up this bad habit : ‘The cause appears to us, to be attributed to the general discomfort felt by all classes of poultry during the cold weather, and especially the east winds. ‘The poor things, huddled together in a sheltered corner, dare not come out in the open unless at feeding time, and then. they never scratch about nor look for insects, grass, or those little nothings which constitute the essential part of their food, and which is found in every run well attended to. Under these circumstances the want of ani- POULTRY DEPARTMENT. 435 mal food has made itself felt, and the opportunity and temptation being within their reach, they have pulled at one another’s feathers, which they eat with evident satisfaction. ‘Tie only immediate remedy is to set them at liberty, but as this cannot be done in every case, one has to be satisfied with the means at his disposal. Let them have, several times a day, green-meat. Mix with the soft food, some meat cut up into small pieces. Avoid tainted meat. Renew the sand in the runs, and especially put dry sand under the sheds where the fowls generally dust themselves. Care must be taken with a hen, although not picked herself, but always pursuing the others, to isolate her. One single bird is sufficient to set a bad example. In small runs it is the cock which is generally picked first. Is it from excess of affection, or is it spite and revenge? It is dificult tosay. At all events, he seldom resents it, and and allows himself to be plucked without resistance. In this case the best way to protect him, is to rub him over with a sponge dipped in parafine. In repeating this operation two or three times, at an in- terval of some days, the hens will entirely cease to strip their lord and master.’’ Cholera. ‘This disease is epidemic in its attacks, and is seldom seen in any other country. It attacks isolated flocks and yards having poor drainage or care, and often nearly depletes them. It is undoubtedly malarial in character; and is very rapid in its action and termination. The poison of the malaria affects the liver, poisons the blood, and causes violent diarrhea. The fowl having this disease appears droopy, weak, in high fever, has rough and draggled plumage, and is very thirsty. Its droppings are of a greenish color. The following pill is highly recom- mended : 60 grains Blue Mass. 25 grains Camphor. 80 grains Cayenne Pepper. 48 grains Rhubarb, 6 drops Laudanum. Mix and make into twenty pills, giving one every four hours till they act freely, and when they have acted follow with a tea-spoonful castor oil and ten drops laudanum to each fowl. Diarrhea. This complaint must not be confounded with ‘‘cholera,”’ and it can be readily distinguished by a difference in the color of the droppings and the attendant symptoms, which are very marked in a case of cholera. A simple diarrhea can usually be checked by the use of bonemeal as a food. Boiled rice mixed with pounded chalk will often stop it, and if possible to check it by either of these remedies, it is best 435 POULTRY DEPARTMENT. to do so. When these remedies are not sufficient to check the disease, give chlorodyne in water as prescribed on the bottle. Roup. ‘This is a very contagious and fatal disease, and when it once gets into a flock is very difficult to get rid of. Especial care is necessary to see that it is not communicated from one fowl to another, and as long as there is a case of roup about the place wash all dishes every day with carbolic acid water, and the houses should be lime-washed once a week. The affected bird, of course, will be separated from the flock, and as soon as it is positively known that roup is the disease, killed off at once, and very deeply buried. The bird seems to have a cold, but roup is known by the offensive breath, swollen face and eyes, and a discharge from the nostrils. If this attacks a very valuable fowl and it is desirable to try and cure, the following remedies may be successful. Wash the face, nostrils and mouth with chlorinated soda to kill the mucus which gathers there. Give sulphur or charcoal to cure the scrofula symptoms, and copaiba capsules for the cold. Common Cold, or Catarrh. This disease in poultry produces the same symptoms that it does in man, namely: a running at the nose, and a slight swelling of the eyes. It arises from exposure, and if not attended to, may result seriously. To cure the cold the bird should be kept in a warm place and have doses of copaiba capsules, and be given nutritious food. Bronchitis. Common colds sometimes settle on the bronchial tubes instead of in the head, and the fowls are seen constantly coughing with- out any other signs of a cold. ‘These symptoms are caused by bronchi- tis. Generally all that is necessary to cure is to remove the bird at once to a warm, moist atmosphere. A warm day should be chosen to re- turn the fowl to its former house. If the cold lingers, give one grain of calomel and one grain of tartar emetic each morning till an improve- ment is seen. Disorders of the Egg Organs. Bad feeding sometimes is the cause of the delicate mechanism by means of which the egg is formed and voided getting so disordered that it can not perform the functions of nature. These organs may be disordered by lack of a sufficient supply of shell-forming material, which results in soft-shelled eggs. Birds that are free to run generally find enough of the shell-forming material, so that they are rarely troubled with this difficulty. Occasionally a hen becomes egg-bound. When this happens inject into the oviduct a little POULTRY DEPARTMENT. 437 castor or olive oil. Handle the bird carefully, as rough treatment may easily break the egg. Such a circumstance is usually followed by a fatal result. Cramp. Chickens are sometimes seen with their toes curled in, and later are found walking on their knuckles. This is cramp, caused by being upon a clay or damp soil. Tocure, place the chicken upon a per- fectly dry floor, and feed on corn-meal with warm milk. Bathe the feet in warm water, rub dry and paint with turpentine. Consumption. This is often an hereditary disease, and when so it can not be cured, but there is a form caused by damp, dark, badly ventilated houses. The bird gradually wastes away, there is a contin- ual mucus discharge from the mouth, and a cough, and the poor bird soon dies, leaving simply a mass of bones and feathers. If the disease is acquired it may be cured if taken in time. The best treatment is good housing, wholesome and abundant diet, and capsules of cod-liver oil with quinine. Do not breed from any bird that has had the con- sumption, even though apparently cured. Diphtheria. This disease seldom makes its appearance in ordinary poultry yards, being chiefly confined to exhibitions, and the ordinary keeper need not fear the disease except when buying birds. Its indications are, severe cold with high fever, and in the throat white spots are seen filling the glottis. Any bird so affected should be immediately killed, as it is very contagious, and when once it gets into a flock it is seldom driven out without the sacrifice of all the birds. Bumble-Foot. This disease is largely confined to the Dorkings and Houdans. It is caused by a wart-like substance appearing in the ball of the foot, which, if allowed to grow, will cause the bird to become so lame it can not walk. The cause is high perches and constant walking on stone or cement floors. The wart-like substance should be cut out with asharp knife, and the part touched with nitrate of silver. after which the fowl should be kept on a floor thickly covered with cut straw. If very much inflamed do the foot up in cloths, which should be kept wet with cold water. 438 POULTRY DEPARTMENT. POULTRY KEEPING FOR FARMERS. The following paper was read at the Farmer’s Institute at South Easton, New York. Itis from the pen of O. B. Wilbur, one of the most practical farmers in the country. We give it because of its great value and practical suggestions: ‘“The question, ‘Is it profitable for a farmer to engage in the raising of poultry?’ can only be answered by considering many of the condi- tions under which the farmer is compelled to work, the help which could be depended upon from the other members of the family, the convenience to a ready market, the adaptability of himself or some member of the family to the werk of disposing of the surplus product and many of the circumstances which enter into the life of every industrious and hard working farmer’s family. The most essential thing contributing to the success of any business is a liking of the person for that business. You can as well expect a person who dislikes the care of horses or cattle to become a successful stock raiser as look for a man who cares little for the fowls to succeed in the poultry business. A love for the work is necessary in this as in any other business. If a person has this satisfaction in caring for his poul- try, there will be no other part of the farm work which will give him more thorough enjoyment than this. The next most important question is, ‘Will it pay?’ ‘There is no doubt some of us present who would enjoy hitching up a high-spirited, mettlesome horse, one which has known nothing of the pressure of a hame collar upon his shoulders, or the fatigue of a hard day's work be- fore the plow, take our little family into the carriage and drive into the village on a pleasant summer afternoon to do our shopping and show our valuable roadster. I haven’t the slightest doubt but what this would be exceedingly gratifying to many of us, but I hardly think it would pay the average farmer to keep a horse which is too high-spirited or valuable to do the ordinary routine of farm work. In the same way, it might be suited to our tastes to care for and ex- hibit at the numerous shows, valuable thoroughbred poultry, but this question, ‘ Will it pay?’ is the one which interests the most of us in the greatest degree. To the question, ‘ Will it pay the average farmer to keep poultry in sonnection with the almost infinite variety of work which is found upon ail general farms,’ I answer most emphatically, yes. If the work of POULTRY DEPARTMENT. 439 caring for poultry is as well done as other work, I think there is hardly any other kind of work on the farm which will prove so remunerative. But we can not keep hens and neglect them and expect to realize much profit from them. ‘With proper care a flock of hens on almost any farm might be made to pay clear of all expenses from one dollar to two dol- lars per head, and even more than that in many cases. I had much rather have invested fifty or one hundred dollars in good laying hens than an equal amount in sheep, hogs or cows. If a man should tell me his fifty dollar cow had turned over to him a clear profit of two hundred dollars in a single season, I should be inclined to question his veracity, but should he or a dozen others say that from their flock of fifty-cent hens they had in the same length of time cleared above all expenses two dollars per head, I should not question them for a moment, but would say, well done; I am glad you have found the secret of success in poultry raising. In the brief time which can be given to this paper, I can only outline a few of the requirements necessary to the successful prosecution of this part of the farm work. The first thing is a suitable place in which to keep your fowls. One need not necessarily go to the expense of erecting a costly building for a hen-house, although were I to keep only twenty-five or fifty hens, I should prefer to build a good substantial building separate from all others, for a poultry-house, for the reason that so few farm buildings would have a room which could be fitted up suitably forthe purpose. In locating a building a dry spot should be selected, if possible sloping to the south, then you can have your yards south of the house, thus being protected from the cold north winds of winter, and in the spring the warm, sunny days will quickly melt the snow so the fowls can sooner get to the ground and scratch to their heart’s content. The plans for building a hen-house are as numerous as the number of people building them, but whatever the details of the plans are, it is necessary to keep in mind that the house must be made comfortable and warm, being free from cracks through which the wind can penetrate, causing an indefinite number of diseases among your feathered tribe. Of the two extremes, little ventilation or large cracks and holes in the wall, I should by all odds choose the former. I tried one winter to keep my house thoroughly ventilated by opening trap doors in the ceiling up into the loft, but I found my fowls were constantly being attacked with sneezing and colds in the head. Since then I have kept the trap door- 440 POULTRY DEPARTMENT. closed, even in the heat of summer, preferring to ventilate from below the fowl’s resting place, and they have continued free from disease. In building a hen-house, there is a tendency among amateurs to get too many windows. Anything like an even temperature can not be maintained when a large part of one side of the house is glass, unless by means of shutters, curtains, or something of that kind. In the daytime when the sun shines, you will have summer weather inside, but at night the rapid radiation through the glass causes the temperature to rapidly fall to a low point, thus exposing the fowls to great extremes in tem- perature. Do not crowd too many fowls into a limited space. The usual rule is to allow ten square feet of floor area for each hen, and I have no doubt but what more money. can be made per hen if they are given this amount than if confined to closer quarters. I have, however, considered this question from another standpoint, which is this. Many of us can keep more hens in summer than our house will accommodate in winter, were we to allow the usual ten square feet of space to each hen, so unless we feel like enlarging the house, we must keep less in summer than we wish to, or put more in the house in the winter than the rule will allow. Now, I look at it in this way, that it is the total profit at the end of the year which we realize that we are looking after, soif Ican make but two dollars per hen by wintering one hundred, it is better than three dollars per head for fifty. I thus prefer to lessen slightly the profit in winter that they may be increased in summer when the hens can run at large and pick up a considerable part of their living. Hens, to do their best, must have the most liberal hand to feed them, and their bill of fare should be almost as varied as that of human bipeds. Perhaps the plan which I attempt to follow in my own case may prove of some interest to you. Every other morning the first thing I do after U get up is to put a pail of small potatoes in the oven to bake, and by the time we have our chores done and breakfast eaten they are ready to take out and mash. I bake them for the simple reason that at this time in the morning the oven is usually unoccupied, whereas the top of the stove is being used in getting breakfast, so have no chance to boil them without making a separate fire. After they are mashed I add some water or skimmed milk, a small handful of salt, and every two or three mornings a tea-spoonful of Condition Powders, tincture of iron, pow- dered charcoal or half tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper. Experience teaches me just how much water to put in, so that when the meal POULTRY DEPARTMENT. 44t is added, the whole will form a crumbly mass, being neither sloppy nor containing dry meal. The mornings when I do not bake potatoes as a basis for mash, I have soaked over night in boiling water a quantity of clover heads and leaves, which have fallen off the clover hay as it is pitched out of the mow to feed. I have a clover cutter, but as this plan is handier than cutting the whole hay, I have adopted it. The meal of which the mash is made is composed of two parts of corn and oats ground together, two parts wheat bran, two parts wheat middlings, and one part of either buck- wheat middlings or rye shorts and some chopped boiled meat, and frequently to this is added a handful of either oil meal or cotton- seed meal. At noon their food consists either of oats or buckwheat scattered in the wheat chaff which covers the floor about four or five inches in depth. At night they are given about all the corn or wheat they will eat. This is also scattered in the chaff, if they have time to scratch it out before they go on the roost, if not, I put it in the trough. I say, about all they will eat, for when they stuff themselves completely full at night their appetite in the morning is not so good as I would wish, and as the morn- ing feed is cheaper than the evening meal, I endeavor to have them have the best appetites, when I can fill them up on good egg-food for the least money. I endeavor to have a constant supply of pure water before them, also a supply of coarse ground bone, ground oyster or clamshells, and—by the way—I much prefer clamshells, for they act partially as grit, besides supplying the lime necessary for the egg-shell and coarse ground charcoal, together with plenty of grit of some kind. Heads of cabbage are hung up in convenient places for them to pick at during the day, and specked apples, beets, etc., are frequently given. I suppose a more varied diet might be given to them, but this seems to agree very well with the constitution of my flock, so I have adopted it. The question is often asked, what is the most profitable breed to keep. To this question I always answer, it all depends upon the fancy of the person keeping them, and the purpose for which they are kept. Ifa person seems to fancy Cochins, or Brahmas, or Langshans, or any of the large breeds, and wants to raise poultry for market, the variety which suits his fancy is the one for him, for he will do better with the breed which pleases him, and there is no very great difference in the value of the different varieties, if meat is what they are looking 442 POULTRY DEPARTMENT. after. In the same way, if you fancy the Spanish, the Hamburg, the Andalusians, the Minorcas, or the Leghorns, and keep fowls for the number of eggs which they will produce, I say, choose the variety which best suits you. So, if your object is to produce the greatest number of eggs for the least money, you don’t want any of the larger breeds; or if your object is the production of meat, you do not want any of the Mediterranean breeds. I think, however, most farmers are better adapted to a union of the two objects, and desire a fowl which will lay a good quantity of eggs, and at the same time have a good sized carcass when a chicken is desired for the table, so would recommend some of the varieties of Plymouth Rocks or Wyandottes, or some other of the medium- sized fowls. I will close by saying that no farmer should expect to be successful in poultry-raising, unless he takes and carefully reads some of the numer- ous papers devoted exclusively to the raising and care cf poultry. An enterprising farmer can not afford to be without an agricultural paper, and in no part of farm work should there be more deviation from the old style of farming than in the care of poultry.. So I consider it necessary for a live, energetic farmer, to take at least one good wide-awake poultry journal.”’ BRONZE TURKEY, THE POTATO. Fungi and Bacteria Affecting the Potato. LATE BLIGHT OR DOWNY MILDEW, EARLY BLIGHT OR LEAF SPOT DISEASE, BACTERIAL BLIGHT, THE POTATO SCAB, ETC. HE diseases of the cultivated plants caused by fungi inflict upon agriculture an enormous loss. Scientific investigation has been carried on by the governments in various parts of the world, and the recent experiments in spraying with arsenites for the destruc tion of insects, and the copper solution or Bordeaux mixture for the treatment of fungous diseases, proves that a large proportion of this en- ormous loss might be saved by their applications. This chapter is devoted to the fungous enemies of the potato. The enemies of our fruit plants and trees are described under ‘‘FRUIT CULTURE.”’ Late Blight or Downy Mildew. This disease is caused by a fungi, (phytophora infestans) which generally appears rather late in in the season. Its attacks are usually sudden and fatal, the plants that are affected often being entirely destroyed in a few days. The tubers are usually affected; rotting and giving off during the process a foul odor. This disease spreads very rapidly during warm, moist weather, and at such times it is very destructive. The first indication of its presence is the appearance of brownish spots upon the leaves in the shape of a downy mildew. These spots grad- nally enlarge and finally the whole leaf turns dark brown or blackish. 444 ' THE POTATO. Soon the remainder of the leaves become affected and the whole plant eventually wilts and dies. At the first appearance if the plants are sprayed several times with Bordeaux mixture its ravages will be prevented. A large number of the potato maladies of this country have until re- cently been attributed to this fungus. Late investigations show that there are other diseases that attack the potato, for which the Late Blight has been held responsible. There is however one consoling fact whether we are able to differentiate between this and other troubles or not, and that is, that the remedy for this disease is likewise effective in those for which it may be mistaken. Early Blight or Leaf-Spot Disease. This disease which ap- pears early in the summer is caused by the fungi called the macrospor- ium solani. It shows itself in the shape of small, brown brittle spots which are scattered over the leaf. Ifa careful study is made of the leaf it will be found that their upper surfaces are somewhat roughened by darker spots which are raised above the dead tissue which assumes a gray color. ‘These spots are at first small but they slowly increase in size and finally run together and form large brown patches between which is found the leaf becoming yellowish or sickly green in color. The plant finally withers and dies before the tubers are half grown. This fungus is difficult to study in the potato field, because the spores are produced on only a portion of the affected plants. It winters over in the spore stage on the dead vines. Potato vines should always be burned, and if the disease has appeared one year give several early appli- cations of Bordeaux mixture. Do not plant potatoes on the same field the next season. Bacterial Blight. There is a potato disease due to bacteria. Since it developes in the tissues that are attacked by the fungus just described it is probable that the two have been confounded. ‘There seems to be this difference however, the bacterial blight developes in all parts of the plant, and generally starts from the seed planted which rots in the ground. This disease is most troublesome in warm climates and is shown by the early death of the plants, they oftentimes suddenly wilting and the young potatoes decay. Treatment of Diseases of the Potatoes. Experiments show that these diseases may be prevented by spraying with the Bordeaux mixture. Vines thus sprayed remain in a healthy condition long after THE POTATO. 445 untreated vines are dead, thereby developing larger potatoes and con- sequently a greater yield. At the experimental station in Rhode Island two rows in the center of a. field were not treated with the Bordeaux mixture and the leaves blighted and dried up soon after August ist., leaving only the bare, dead stems, while the plants in the rows that were treated remained with their leaves green and healthy. When the potatoes were dug in the fall the untreated rows yielded marketable tubers at the rate of thirty-three barrels per acre, while the others averaged ninety-seven barrels per acre. The first application of Bordeaux mixture should be made when the vines are one-third grown or earlier if the disease appears. If it is washed off by rain repeat after two weeks. If the Colorado beetle is present add half a pound of London purple or Paris green to each forty gallons of Bordeaux mixture. Potato Scab. Nearly every farmer is more or less familiar with the disease of potatoes called ‘‘scab.’’ It is scientifically named Oospora scabies. Farmers have noticed that this disease is most prevalent in fields that have been heavily fertilized by barnyard manure. ‘his is supposed to be caused by the stock being fed with potatoes that have been affected by the scab. ‘The spores of this disease do not seem to lose their fertility during digestion and passes out into the compost to be spread over the field and attack the developing tubes. It can ofter be seen on partially developed scabby potatoes in the shape of fine white threads running over the surface. Repeated experiments show that if scabby potatoes are planted, scabby potatoes will be dug in the fall. Treatment. Dr. Roland Thatcher after many years of study and experiment describes the preventive measures as follows : 1. The seed must be freed from scabs. 2. Land that has produced scabby potatoes must not be planted with potatoes in less than three years. 3. Land planted with potatoes must not be fertilized with manure from stock that have been fed scabby potatoes or beets. 4. Scabby potatoes should not be fed stock raw, but should always be thoroughly cooked, even if the Jand on which the manure is to be placed is not to be immediately planted with potatoes. 5. Any other fertilizer is to be preferred to barnyard manure, even if free from droppings of animals fed on diseased potatoes. 6. If the potatoes show evidence of ‘‘scab’’ dig as soon as mature, be- 446 THE POTATO. cause if left in the ground the diseased spots spread and deepen. 7. The disease may be prevented by placing the seed (cut if desired) in coarse sacks like coffee-sacks through which liquid will readily pass and soak for an hour or two in the following: to two ounces of finely pulverized corrosive sublimate (murcuric bichloride) add three gallons of hot water and allow to stand over night or until it is dissolved. To this add twelve gallons of water and stir thoroughly for five or six hours. ‘The potatoes after being in the liquid for the required time should be dried before being planted. Caution. Plant all potatoes treated. This solution is a deadly poison, but at this strength is not dangerous unless taken into the stomach. ‘The poison being corrosive should only be placed in wooden vessels. NEVER USE METALLIC VESSELS. Bordeaux Mixture. This fungicide originated in France. For directions how to muke see page 540. How to Prepare Carbonate of Copper. Dissolve in a barrel twenty-five pounds of copper sulphate in hot water. In another barrel dissolve thirty pounds of sal soda in hot water. Allow both solutions to cool, then slowly pour the solution of sal soda into the copper sulphate solution, stirring the same. Fill the barrel with water, and allow the precipitate of copper carbonate to settle. Upon the following day siphon off the clear liquid. ‘This operation washes the carbonate free of most of the sodium sulphate which contaminates it. Make a filter of stout muslin, by tacking the same to a square wooden frame, which will just fit over the top of the second barrel, letting the muslin hang down loosely so as to forma sack; through this filter the precipitate, so as to drain off the excess of water, and as the filter fills remove the precipi- tate, and allow it to dry in the open air, when it is ready for use. Carbonate of copper is commonly used in the form of an ammoniacal solution, made by dissolving four ounces of carbonate of copper in two quarts of ammonia, and then adding to a barrel of water. The carbon- ate will dissolve more readily if mixed with water enough to form a paste before it is added to the ammonia. Itisa simple fungicide, easy to make and apply, and as it is a clear solution there is no trouble with it clogging nozzles. STANDARD RECEIPTS. “THOROUGH INFORMATION IN PLAIN LANGUAGE, RELIABLE AND SCIENTIFIC. Practical and Valuable Remedies. COMPREHENSIVE, THOROUGH, AND EASILY UNDERSTOOD. 2-9 Good Samaritan Liniment or Pain Killer. This is one of the best liniments made. It affords relief in bruises, sprains, burns, rheumatism, neuralgia, and headache. 2 quarts 95 per cent. Alcohol, 1 ounce Spirits of Turpentine, 1 ounce Balsam of Fir, 1 ounce Chloroform, 1 ounce Oil Sassafras, 1 ounce Oil Hemlock, 1 ounce Tincture Catechu, 1 ounce Tincture Guaiacum, 2 ounces Oil Origanum 3 ounce aim Camphur, $ ounce Oil Wintergreen. Dissolve the gum camphor and oils in the alcohol, before adding the other ingredients. Rheumatic Liniment. This can not be surpassed for human ail- ments, such as, rheumatism, sprains, bruises, lameness, etc. 1 ounce Oil of Spike, 1 ounce Gum Camphor, 1 ounce Oil of Wormwood, 1 ounce Oil of Hemlock 2 ounces Sweet Oil, 1 ounce Oil of Origanum, 1 ounce Spirit of Ammonia, 1 pint Alcohol. Mix well together and keep well corked. By adding one ounce spirits of turpentine it makes an unequalled horse liniment. 448 STANDARD RECEIPTS. Arnica Liniment. This is a valuable liniment for wounds, stiff joints, rheumatism and sprains. 1 pint Sweet Oil, 2 table-spoonfuls Tincture of Arnica. The leaves may be used instead of the tincture, by putting them in the oil and heating over a slow fire. Then strain. Chilblain Liniment. This will allay the itching burning sensa- tion and by proper care effect a cure. 1 ounce of Liquor of Subacetate of Lead, 2 ounces of Spirits of Camphor. Mix thoroughly and apply at least four times a day. Chloroform Liniment. This is one of the best applications for neuralgic and rheumatic pains. 1 ounce of Chloroform, 1 ounce Spirits Camphor, 1 ounce Ether, 1 ounce Tincture of Opium, 4 ounce Tincture of Cayenne Pepper. Bathe frequently, or until pain becomes subdued. Camphor Liniment. As an application it isa very powerful out- ward stimulant. It is most valuable in chronic rheumatism and other painful affections. It is especially valuable as an outside application in sore throat or diseased bowels. 1 quart Olive Oil. 4 ounces Gum Camphor. Mix and put the bottle in hot water. Keep in hot water till the camphor is thoroughly dissolved. Its full strength and benefit is best obtained, if the parts treated are covered with oil-silk after the liniment is applied. Spirits of Camphor. A quantity of this remedy should always be on hand, ready to be used as an external application for sprains, local pains and stitches. 1 quart of Alcohol, 4 ounces of Camphor Gum. The gum will readily dissolve in the alcohol. It should be applied by rubbing the painful part with the hand. Cover the part after rubbing with flannel, wet with the camphor. ; Camphor may be beaten for some time in a mortar and not be reduced to a powder, but if a few drops of the spirits of wine be added it may de easily be made fine. Adding water to camphor dissolved in alcohol turns it white. STANDARD RECEIPTS. 449 OINTMENTS. Camphor Ointment. This is an ointment which will be of bene- fit to ripen (bring to a head) tumors. 2 ounces Adeps (Lard), 1 ounce Powdered Gum Camphor. Mix thoroughly. This is to be applied by putting on cloths and placing over the sore. Pile Ointment. This when faithfully used will relieve the itching burning sensation so common to this annoying disease. Keep the bow- els loose and regular, and be careful of the diet. 2 ounces Adeps (Lard), 1 ounce White Wax, 3 scruples Powdered Opium, 6 scruples Flour of Sulphur. Melt together the lard and wax, stirring constantly till cold, then add the other ingredients. Wonder Ointment. This ointment should be in the cupboard of every family, to use in case of burns, scalds, cuts and sores. It is heal- ing and soothing. Gather your roots while you can, and prepare a few boxes. 1 ponnd Root ot Yellow Dock, 1 pound Root of Dandelion, $ pound Root of Plantain. Put to steep in water and extract the juices. Press out the juices after steeping. Strain carefully and simmer the liquid till half its original bulk. Add some oil and fresh butter and again simmer till all the water is gone. Then box and keep ready for use. Iodoform Ointment. This remedy is largely used to heal sores caused by syphilis. 1 dram of JIodoform. : 15 drams of Adeps (Lard). Add sufficient alcohol to make into an ointment. This has been used with success in many very severe cases. Tar Ointment. This is a popular remedy among the Southern people, ,who use it for scalds and burns. e 6 ounces Tar, 8 ounces Mutton Tallow. Melt together and stir till cold. It isan excellent remedy for scald- 450 STANDARD RECEIPTS. head and ringworm. For scald head, first wash the head well then ap. ply the ointment. Carbolic Ointment. ‘This salve should be used, when there is the least danger of ‘‘proud flesh.’”’ It is what is known as the antiseptic treatment. ‘That is the treatment that will destroy the germs of the air, that often are absorbed into wounds and prevent their healing. 1 fluid dram Carbolic Acid, 4 ounces Adeps (Lard), Melt lard at a gentle heat, add the carbolic acid and stir till cold. Cucumber Ointment. A soothing ointment good for allaying the feverish condition of the skin, or chapped hands or lips. 6 fluid ounces Oil Sweet Almonds, 2 ounces Spermaceti, 4 ounce White Wax, 1 fluid ounce Glycerine, 4 pounds Green Cucumbers. Chop the cucumbers into small pieces, and mash them in a stone jar, let them lie in their own liquor over night, then press and strain. Melt the spermaceti and wax together and add the almond oil. Set the pan in which the melting ingredients are, into a larger pan of boiling water. When melted, add to it the strained cucumber liquid, stirring all the time so as to have them thoroughly mix. Set on cellar bottom or in an ice-box till cold, then stir with wooden spoon, when the watery portion of the cucumber will separate from the ointment; pour off this watery portion and then mix the glycerine with the ointment without heating by thoroughly working with a spoon or the hands. Put into jars and cover with a few drops of rose water. Keep in a cool place. PLASTERS AND BLISTERS. Plasters. These are extensively used for holding together the edges of cuts or wounds. They are also according to their composition used to relieve pain, reduce swellings or soothe inflamed surfaces. Sub- stances which, when applied to the skin produce a redness and increase of heat, are often the main part of what is commonly called a plaster. Blisters. A substance applied to the surface of the body to cause a secondary morbid action, with the view of relieving one already exist- ing, is called a blister. STANDARD RECEIPTS. 451 Adhesive Plaster. This is the well known adhesive plaster, so much used for drawing together the edges of a cut or wound and hold- ing them in position, till healed. It is also used to protect from the air and further injury portions of the body when the skin has been ac- cidentally removed. It is slightly stimulating and it is supposed to aid in the healing process. 1} pounds Litharge, 1 quart Olive Oil, 1 gill Water. Mix with an iron spoon, in a well polished copper kettle the litharge and water, then add the oil and boil, stirring all the time until the plas- ter is sufficiently hard when cold. This process requires considerable time. Take: 5 ounces of Above Mixture, 1 ounce Resin. Mix by a moderate heat, and spread thinly upon muslin, or linen. A thin paper moistened with olive oil, and then wiped dry, may be laid over the surface and the plaster rolled up, put in an air-tight tin tube and be ready in emergencies. Court Plaster. This plaster is merely a kind of varnished silk. By following the directions here given, a very superior article is the re- sult. It will not crack nor break, which makes it far superior to much that is on the market. pound of Isinglass pint Proof-Spirits of Wine, ounce Balsam of Peru, Silk on which to apply. Dissolve the isinglass in as small a quantity of warm water as possible. Let it simmer on the back of the stove till the water is well out, then supply its place by the spirits of wine which will combine with the isinglass. Strain through a piece of muslin, and have it reduced in quantity till like a jelly. Tack the silk tightly on frames, and with a camel’s hair brush apply three coats of the prepared isinglass, which has been made liquid by gently heating. Do not put on the second coat, till the first is dry. After the isinglass coats are dry, give the surface two or three coats of the balsam of Peru. me A Corn Cure. Cut a piece of paper the size of a one-cent piece, and in the centre of this cut a hole the size of the corn. Put this over a piece of adhesive plaster cut to the same size, and warm the plaster 452 STANDARD RECEIPTS. shown by the hole. To this small portion add a little nitrate of silver. Remove paper and apply tothe corn. A couple of applications seldom fail to cure. Strengthening Plaster. This an excellent plaster to relax the muscles and for weak joints caused by sprains and bruises. 6 ounces of First Part of Adhesive Plaster, 1 ounce of White Resin, 3 ounce each Yellow Wax and Olive Oil, 1 ounce Red Oxide of Iron. Rub the oxide well into the oil, melt the other parts and add. Mix well together. Spread the plaster on leather, cut into narrow strips and wind around the sprained joint. Mustard Plaster. This will furnish an ever ready mustard plaster which is far superior to the untidy, annoying wet. plaster so often used. 4 pound Pulverized Black Mustard Seed, 6 ounces Mucilage of Gum Arabic. Cover paper or smooth cloth with the mucilage and dust over the sur- face the powdered black mustard seed. The strength will depend up- on the amount dusted on the surface. When dry put away in air-tight fruit-jar. When wanted plasters of anv size can be cut from the roll, Spanish Fly Blister. This is a strong and active blister, which will act quickly and powerfully. 6 ounces Burgundy Pitch, 2 ounces Beeswax, 9 ounces Venice Turpentine, 6 ounces Cantharides, $ ounce Powdered Mustard, 3 ounce Powdered Black Pepper. Mix over heat but it must be less than boiling water. POULTICES. Poultices. These are generally made of substances that will take up and hold large quantities of water, and retain a soft condition. Their power to cure depends upon the heat retained by the poultice and the liquids with which they are mixed. Milk will not evaporate as quickly as water. Glycerine added to a poultice will aid in keeping it soft. A layer of mosquito netting between the poultice and the skin will keep the mass together so that there will be no trouble in chang- ing the poultices when fresh ones are needed. Poultices should be kept STANDARD RECEIPTS. 453 warm and moist by covering the outside with oil-silk, a sheet of gutta- percha or India-rubber cloth. A square cut from some old gossamer, will be the best that can usually be obtained. Slippery Elm Poultice. This poultice will remove inflammation sooner than any other. It is used to allay pain and hasten suppuration. It is extremely valuable in boils and ulcers. 1 pound Slippery Elm Bark, 3 ounce Tincture of Myrrh. Stir in hot or warm milk or water, enough of the slippery elm bark to make a poultice of the required size, stir thoroughly and add its propor- tion of the tincture. Apply warm and keep it moist by covering. Flaxseed Poultice. This poultice is of much value because it will not crack when it becomes dry. 2 ounces Powdered Flaxseed, 1 gill Hot Milk or Water. Prepare by slowly sprinkling the flaxseed into the liquid, all the time thoroughly stirring with a spoon. Charcoal Poultice. This poultice should always be used with ul- cers or with any sore that has a tendency to mortification. ‘The char- coal is an antiseptic which has great purifying properties, as well as the power to destroy the offensive smell coming from putrid sores. 1 pound Powdered Flaxseed, 3} pound Powdered Charcoal. Add hot water or milk to make it the proper consistency. Add some glycerine to keep it soft. The following may be used if preferred: 4 ounces Dry Bread, 1 pint Boiling Water, 2 ounces Powdered Flaxseed, 1 ounce Powdered Charcoal. Soak the bread in water till soft, add the flaxseed and three-fourths of the charcoal. Before applying, sprinkle the remainder of the char- coal over the surface of the poultice. Soap Poultice. This is an old fashioned remedy having much vir- tue. It is of greatest value in scalds and burns. 2 ounces of Scraped White Soap, 4 pint Boiling Water. Dissolve the soap thoroughly in the water and use the liquid for mix- ing with sufficient bread or flaxseed to make a poultice. 454 STANDARD RECEIPTS. HOW TO PRODUCE SWEATING. Perspiration. Colds may be ‘‘broken up,’’ by a good ‘‘sweat’’ that would otherwise terminate in a long run of fever. Common reme- dies are usually at hand; and it is only necessary to know how to use them. ‘Take a sweat as soon as a cold is noticed. Boneset Tea. A valuableremedy that can be always at hand. Gather the boneset while in blossom or procure at the drug-store. 2 ounces Boneset, 1 quart Boiling Water. Boil for half hour. ‘Take four table-spoonfuls as hot as possible every thirty minutes. This will produce a profuse perspiration, Sweating Tea. This will produce sweating in many of the most obstinate cases. 2 ounces Pleurisy Root, 3 Pints Water. Simmer for half hour. Take a tea-spoonful as often as the stomach will bear it. Sweating Drops. ‘Take a tea-spoonful of peppersauce upon sugar before going to bed. Cover up warm, and a good sweat will be the re- sult. EMETICS. Common Emetic. An emetic that can be obtained at a moments notice is sometimes essential. This may be obtained at almost any home, and is a reliable emetic. 2 tea-spoonfuls Common Salt, 2 tea-spoonfuls Mustard. 1 glass Warm Water. Drink all the stomach will take. Emetic Syrup. This is a valuable emetic, and a family having children should never be without a bottle of this syrup. 1 ounce Simple Syrup, 1 ounce Wine of Ipecacuanha, 2 ounces Water. Mix and take from one-half to one ounce every quarter hour till vomiting takes place. For a child give twenty drops or more according to age STANDARD RECEIPTS. 455 WORM REMEDIES. Symptoms. The symptoms denoting worms are quite common to the various species. The surest is to find them in the passages of the bowels. The other symptoms are: starting during sleep; grinding of the teeth; itching of the nose; and indigestion with a variable appetite. Stomach Worms. ‘To expel these from young children use the following faithfully and success will follow: 2 ounces Fluid Extract Pink-root, 16 grains Santonine. Mix and give a child two years old one tea-spoonful night and morn- ing, until it physics. Pin Worm Remedy. The thread or seat worm may be washed away by an injection of quassia which has been soaked for twenty-four hours in water enough to cover. This should be followed by doses of the stomach worm remedy. It is well to take a tonic after the expulsion of worms. COUGH REMEDIES. Cough Mixture. A large number of cough remedies contain some form of opium, as laudanum or paregoric, which while having the de- sired effect upon a cough has a tendency to constipate the bowels, which has to be overcome by a cathartic. The following is a val- uable remedy which does not constipate. 4 ounces Iceland Moss, 4 table-spoonfuls Pearl Barley, 2 ounces Tincture of Lobelia, 4 ounces Poppy Capsules, 3 pint Molasses, 4 quarts Water, 3 pound Sugar Candy. Mix all together excepting the candy, and boil down to three quarts, then dissolve in it the candy. Dose, one table-spoonful when the cough is troublesome. Cough Mixture No. 2. This is a valuable remedy for coughs and hoarseness. 2 ounces Horehound, 1 ounce Comfrey Root. 2 ounces Boneset, 1 ounce Spikenard, 2 ounces Lobelia Herb, 1 ounce St. John’s Wort, 1 ounce Poppy Capsules, 3 pound Loaf Sugar, 4 quarts Water. Mix all together excepting the sugar and let stand in warm place for 456 STANDARD RECEIPTS. three hours, then add sugar and boil down to asyrup. A table-spoon- ful is a dose. Valley’s Mixture for a Cough. This remedy while being a valuable remedy has the feature of being pleasant to take. Children will not refuse the medicine. 1 tea-cupful Flaxsed, 14 ounces Powdered Licorice Root, + pound Chopped Raisins, 2 quarts Water. Put the licorice root and raisins into the water and boil till the strength is extracted, then add the flaxseed which has been soaked over night. Let all boil for an hour, watching and stirring to prevent it from burning. Boil in a rice-kettle if it can be obtained. Strain and add lemon juice and granulated sugar to taste. Take a tablespoonful whenever cough is troublesome, and the same quantity warm just before retiring. Hive Syrup. This old and well known remedy has been changed some in the composition, substituting sugar for honey. When made of honey it fermented almost invariably. Made after the following receipt it will keep without spoiling. Largely used in croup. 1 ounce Squills, 1 ounce Seneca Snake-Root, 1 pint Water, Boil down to one-half and strain. Add one-half pound of sugar and twelve grains tartrate of antimony. Dissolve the sugar by agitation without heat. Dose, as an expectorant for adults twenty to thirty drops. For children five drops as an expectorant. As an emetic which may be repeated every fifteen or twenty minutes till vomiting is the re- sult, give ten drops to a tea-spoonful. Hive Syrup, No. 2. This can be prepared by purchasing the compound syrup of squills, instead of making the same as in the first receipt. 6 ounces Compound Fluid Extract quills, 48 grains Tartar Emetic, 40 fluid ounces Simple Syrup. 1 fluid-ounce Hot Water. Dissolve the tartar emetic in the water, and with the other ingredi- ents. STANDARD RECEIPTS. 457 Murphy Cough Syrup. This combination is specially useful for asthma, hoarseness, aud coughs. 1 ounce Blood-root, 1 ounce Colt’s Foot, 2 ounces Spikenard Root 4 ounce Comtrey Root, 4 ounce Poplar Bark, 1 gill Molasses, ounce Slippery Elm Bark, ounce Elecampane, ounces White Root, ounce Snake Root, ounce Horehound, quart Water, 1 pint Holland Gin. Mike AP De Mix all together excepting the gin, and let simmer for one hour. When cool strain and add the gin. Dose, one table-spoonful every hour, or three tablespoonfuls three times a day. Blood Root Syrup. This is one of the standard remedies and is of great value in bronchial troubles, coughs, and difficult breathing. 5 ounces Bruised Blood Root, 3 ounces Sugar, 3 pints Water. Simmer gently till it thickens, then add one table-spoonful of paregor- ic. Dose is one table-spoonful occasionally, for a child one tea-spoonful or less according to age. To Cure a Cold. Often a cold is accompanied with an annoying cough. The following remedy is very soothing and healing. 3 pounds Pine Needles, 4 pound Loaf Sugar. Steep the needles in water and boil down. Add the loaf sugar and boil till it thickens. Drink of it while warm, during the day and before going to bed. MEDICATED SYRUP. Simple Syrup. The solutions of sugar in water more or less strong according to the use for which it is intended are known as syrups If care be taken in the manufacture and only the best of sugar and pure water be used the danger of fomentation (working) is largely avoided. There is one proportion which is considered stancard among druggists and is known by them as simple syrup. Often times the manufacturer of medicines requires weaker syrups, and the dishonest druggist uses them instead of the standard. 458 STANDARD RECEIPTS. Two pounds of the best quality of loaf sugar toa pint of water. This should be boiled in copper until if a little be placed between the forefinger and thumb, on opening them it will be drawn into a small thread. A little of the white of an egg well beaten, put in before set on the fire; and placing it so it will simmer not bubble nor boil, will clarify the syrup by rising to the top. As soon as the scum appears, take off the scum, and let it simmer, taking off the scum until the syrup becomes clear, and the scum as white as milk. To prevent granulation add half dram of acetic acid to each pint of syrup. Rhubarb Sytup. Rhubarb is well known as a gentle physic, but it is bitter and unpleasant to the taste. Prepared as a medicated syrup it loses its unpleasant taste. 3 ounces Fluid Extract Rhubarb, 1 pint Simple Syrup. Mix, and shake the botttle a few times during the day. Then filter next day and it is ready for use. Rhubarb and Senna Syrup. Rhubarb and senna in combination operate quicker as a physic than rhubarb alone. 2 ounces Rhubarb Root, 2 cunces Senna Leaves, 4 ounce Cardamon Seeds, 1 quart Dilute Alcohol. Put the senna leaves, cardamon seeds, and the rhubarb root (bruised) with the alcohol into a well covered fruit can, and let stand at least two weeks in a moderately warm place, shaking it at least twice a day. Then simmer to one-half the quantity, strain and add half pint of simple syrup. Sarsaparilla Syrup. This is the basis of the sarsaparillas sold on the markets as patent medicines. Sarsaparilla is not considered at the present time by the medical fraternity as possessing much virtue, but it is largely used as a medium in which to take other medicines. 1} pounds Sarsaparilla, 3 ounces Guaiacum Wood, 2 ounces Licorice Root, 2 ounces Pale Rose Senna, 3 pints Diluted Alcohol. Mix and allow tc stand in closed vessel forty-eight hours. Filter through a very slow filter, that will not allow the liquid to pass through faster than a drop at a time. Add dilute alcohol occasionally till the re- sult is about ten pints. Evaporate over steam or water to five pints. Add and thoroughly mix five drops each, oils of sarsafras and anise and STANDARD RECEIPTS. 459 three drops oil of gaultheria, which have been thoroughly rubbed with a small portion of the solution. Chamomile Syrup. This preparation is as clear as the syrup and has the advantage of being quickly prepared. 4 ounces Fluid Extract Chamomile, 12 ounces Simple Syrup. Dose is from two to four drams, or two to four tea-spoonfuls, MEDICINAL ESSENCES. Peppermint. This an old and reliable remedy. Much that is sold at drug and grocery stores is far from being up to the standard strength. 1 ounce Oil of Peppermint, 4 ounce Peppermint Herb, 1 pint Spirits of Wine. Let stand for a week or more till the peppermint herb colors it to a pale tint of green. This coloring process is not necessary, nor is it necessary to use any of the herb in the above, but many people prefer to have the essence of this pale green color. This is a strong essence, the usual strength being one ounce of the oil to a quart of the spirits. A dose of the strong would be about ten to twenty drops. Wintergreen. Often used in the place of peppermint. Ordinary strength is as follows: 1 ounce Oil of Wintergreen, 1 quart Spirits of Wine. Dose, from twenty to sixty drops. Jamaica Ginger. This is an inexpensive and easily prepared ‘incture of ginger. 4 pound Jamaica Ginger, 3 pints Spirits of Wine. Bruise the Jamica ginger and let stand two weeks. Then press and strain. Dose, one tea-spoonful. Essence of Beef. A very valuable remedy for nourishment, when a person is not able to digest more solid food. 1 pound Lean Beef, $ pint Water. Chop the beef yery fine and put in a quart bottle, then add the water. 460 STANDARD RECEIPTS. Put the bottle into a kettle of cold water, and put over the fire. Let it boil violently for half an hour. Then pour off the liquid and boil the remaining meat in one pint of water for the same time. Strain both liquids and mix. Flavor with salt and pepper and put while boiling hot into air tight bottles or cans. Keep in a cool place. Bitter Essence. This is a well known tonic and stomatic. It is usually taken combined with mixtures. 1 ounce Gentian Root, 4 ounce Bitter Orange Peel, + ounce Wormwood, + ounce Blessed Thistle, 12 ounces Alcohol. Mix and let stand for two weeks, shaking occasionally. Strain and it is ready for use. Dose from one-half to two tea-spoonfuls. Tincture of Camphor. The tincture of camphor of the stores is not as strong as the spirits of camphor previously described. The tinct- ure of camphor of the stores is about 9 drams Gum Camphor, 1 quart Alcohol. The spirits of camphor can be reduced and made of the strength of this solution by adding spirits of wine. To Color Essences. Asa matter of appearance the tinctures are often times colored. The best method is to steep a portion of the herb of which the tincture is made in a little water for several hours. ‘The essence of cinnamon is often colored with the tincture of red sandal wood. HOW TO MEASURE MEDICINE. Measures and Equivalents. For the sake of convenience, in the absence of proper instruments, we often make use of means of measurements, which are not precice nor uniform, yet are sufficiently accurate for ordinary purposes. There are a few common household implements which correspond to a certain extent with the regular standard measures. 1 Tea-spoon holds about 60 drops. 1 Tea-spoon holds about 1 fluid dram. 1 Dessert-spoon holds about 2 fluid drams. 1 Table-spoon holds about 4 fluid drams. 1 Thimble holds about 34 of a fluid dram. STANDARD RECEIPTS. 461 1 Wine-glass holds about 2 fluid ounces. 1 Tea-cup holds about 4 fluid ounces. 1 Coffee-cup holds about 8 fluid ounces. t Tumbler holds adout 8 fluid ounces. 1 Pinch of leaves weighs about 1 dram. 1 Handful of leaves weighs about ro drams. Doses at Different Ages. The doses of medicines at different ages vary. Children and aged people should receive less than the or- dinary dose. Opiates should be given in less quanties than other med- icine, because they seem to take greater effect on the young. The fol- lowing table will give the dose as usually administered. Under six months one-sixteenth of a full dose. Under one year one-thirteenth of a full dose: Under two years one-seventh of a full dose. Under three years one-fifth of a full dose. Under four years one-fourth of a full dose. Under seven years one-third of a full dose. Under ten years five-elevenths of a full dose. Under fifteen years one-half of a full dose. Under twenty years two-thirds of a full dose. TO PREVENT CONTAGION AND BLOOD POISONING. Antiseptics. In cases of wounds it is often the case to find that poisonous germs existing in the air are absorbed, and the wound does not heal properly because of the germs producing putrefaction in the injured tissue. Blood-poisoning may follow the absorption of these mi- croscopic organisms. Certain agents have the power of destroying these poisonous germs, and are known as antiseptics. Deadly Poisons. Some of the most valuable antiseptics are among the deadliest poisons, even in very small quantities. They should nev- er be used except under the direction of a physician. People who are wounded should insist on antiseptics being used. If the attending physician refuses or neglects his duty in this respect, choose another. Among the antiseptics corrosive sublimate is the best known. It occurs in the form of small, white granules, and is very poisonous. It is used by dissolving three grains in a pint of hot water. A small quantity of glycerine placed upon the corrosive-sublimate, before adding the hot water will hasten the solution. This solution is used in washing and 462 STANDARD RECEIPTS. cleaning the wound. Carbolic acid, salicylic acid, blue vitriol, iodoform, sugar, and alum are all among the antiseptics. Disinfectants are agents which have the power of destroying or neutralizing infectious matter which is the product arising from those suffering from a contagious disease, as small pox, measles, scarlet fever, and a variety of other somrces, as sewers, cess-pools, decaying matter, etc. Disinfectants are used in solid forms or in solution to destroy the infectious germs contained in the clothing and cesspools, and often found in the apartments of the sick. Fumigation is disinfection by means of a gas instead of by the use of solids or solutions. This is very valuable in disinfecting air, and ar- ticles which would be destroyed by wetting. Precautions Against Contagious Diseases. While disinfec- tions destroy the germs left behind by a disease, yet it is well to observe all precautions posssible to prevent contagion. Should a pupil be taken ill of a contagious disease in a school-room or in a family, the room should be fumigated before those who have not been exposed to the contagion should be allowed to enter. The patient should be removed to the top of the house or to a distant part of the dwelling. Before do- ing this remove from the room to be occupied by the patient everything not needed for the comfort of the sick. No one should be allowed to enter the room except the one caring for the patient, and that person should communicate with the family as little as possible. All clothing and bed linen should be disinfected before removing from the room. Even the dishes should receive proper attention. The attendant should be careful never to eat or drink anything that has been standing in the room. As the patient recovers, several warm sponge baths should be given, with an antiseptic solution consisting of three grains of corrosive sublimate to a quart of water, before leaving the room. Clothing that has not been kept in the room should be placed upon the patient im- mediately preceding departure. Dead bodies should be wrapped in linen saturated in a solution of cor- rosive-sublimate of fifteen grains to a pint of water, or a solution of six tea-spoonfuls of carbolic acid toa pint of water. The corrosive-sublimate has not a disagreeable odor, while carbolic acid is more or less unpleas- ant. A Few Disinfectants. In the sick room fresh air and cleanliness are always at hand. Besides these we have BRIMSTONE (Roll Sulphur) for fumigation. STANDARD RECEIPTS. 463 COPPERAS (Sulphate of Iron), one and one half pounds to a gallon of water is used in cesspools and sewers. COMMON SALT AND SULPHATE OF ZINC (White Vitriol), four ounces of each to a gallon of water to disinfect clothing and bed linen. CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE, (Bichloride of Mercury), sixteen grains to a quart of water, is used to receive discharges from the body, when the patient has cholera, typhoid fever, etc. The quantity used should equal the amount of discharge. This is very poisonous, and must be used with greatest caution. CHLORIDE OF LIME. This isa very valuable disinfectant, but it will discolor clothing that has coloring matter in them that will be at- tacked by the free chlorine given out from the compound. Clothing is best disinfected by common salt and sulphate of zinc. Use chloride of lime, one pound to three gallons of water, to sprinkle on floors and wash out sinks that are offensive. Dry chloride placed in rat-holes from which come offensive odors, will soon purify the atmosphere. It should be used in urinals, night commodes, water-closets, privy-vaults, butcher stalls, slaughter-houses, fish-markets, pig-pens, and stables, especially if the latter are near the house. Use it freely whenever a contagious disease or an epidemic of any nature is in the neighborhood. How to Use Disinfectants. All clothing, towels, and bed-linen before removing from the room, should be placed in a tub of boiling salt and zinc solution. All discharges should be received in vessels which contain either the corrosive-sublimate or the copperas solution. Prevention of Diphtheria.” Every person in contact with:a per- son afflicted with diphtheria should use disinfectant gargles as a prevent- ive. A physician should prepare the gargle and give directions for its use. Prevention of Typhoid Fever. This disease is largely trans- mitted through the passages from the bowels. Some one of the disin- fectants should be used in the commode, allowing the stule to pass di- rectly into the liquid prepared as suggested. Corrosive-sublimate, (Di- chloride of mercury), is the most efficient. Sulphate of zinc, (white vitriol), is also very valuable. If proper care be taken in this regard there is very little danger of typhoid fever being transmitted to another person. Scarlet Fever and Measles. These diseases, while disinfection does not prevent their being contagious, seem to be modified by the 464 STANDARD RECEIPTS. proper use of disinfectants. Often those attacked by the disease, where disinfectants have been properly used, have it in a much modified form. Typhus Fever and Small Pox. Do not for a moment neglect the use of disinfectants, and use them freely. Do not burn rags nor clothing that have been on the patients, but drop them in some strong disinfectant fluid. How to Fumigate. Every opening, such as doors, windows, ventilators, and chimneys should be tightly closed. All blankets, bed- ding, and other articles which cannot be treated to the zinc solution should be hung on lines in the room. All colored articles should be thoroughly dry, because if moist the fumes will destroy some of rhe col- ors. Mattresses and upholstered furniture should be taken apart. The hair or other filling should be treated to the zinc solution, while the other parts should be exposed. Take a wash tub or barrel and place in it bricks on which to set an iron kettle. Pour water in the tub or barrel until it nearly covers the bricks. Place in the iron kettle, which sets on the bricks, roll sulphur and set it on fire by means of hot coals, or with the aid of a little alco- hol poured over it and then ignited. About three pounds of sulphur, should be used to every thousand cubic feet. Keep the room closed at least twenty-four hours, after which thoroughly air. Cesspool Disinfection. To every five hundred pounds of the es- timated contents use one pound of corrosive sublimate in solution. Sprinkle chloride of lime daily over the contents during epidemics and at least every two weeks at other times. To Disinfect Sinks and Drains. These often become very offensive and are always a source of danger, breeding diphtheria and malarial fevers, unless properly disinfected. Copperas dissolved in water, one-fourth of a pouud to a gallon, and poured into a sink and water drain occasionally will keep them pure and wholesome. One- half pound of chloride of lime to a gallon of water will have the same effect Where large quantities are used to disinfect vaults or stables, a home made preparation as follows will be very efficient: dissolve one bushel of salt in a barrel of water, and with this salt water slack a barrel of lime. This should make the lime wet enough to form a thin paste. If not add more water. To Disinfect a Cellar. A damp musty floor may be sweetened by sprinkling upon the floor pulverized copperas or chloride of lime. STANDARD RECEIPTS. 465 Cellars that have contained potatoes, carrots, turnips, cabbage or other vegetables during the winter should be thoroughly disinfected early ev- ery spring by sprinkling the floors, walls, and bins that held the vegetables, with water that contained one-half pound of chloride of lime to the gallon. Deodorizers are agents which destroy or neutralize the offensive odors arising from decaying matter or in the sick room. ‘They may or may not have the power of destroying contagious matter, their use be- ing to mask unpleasant odors. ‘Those that have disinfectant properties as well as deodorizing, are carbolic acid, chloride of lime and chloride of zinc. ‘The simple deodorizers are burning cotton, paper, or coffee. A portion of chloride of lime placed on a plate on the mantel is a very good constant deodorizer. How to use Deodorizers. Chloride of zinc, an ounce to a quart of water, sprayed about the room occasionally is an effectual means of destroying offensive odors. Chloride of Lime used as above suggested. Use the disinfectanls as suggested for the discharges from the body Burn paper; cotron, or coffee. and let the smoke pass in the room. Chlorine. This is a very powerful disinfectant. It is a green gas and attacks chemically nearly all contagious matter. It is used in the form of gas which is generated and allowed to pass into the rooms. If this is generated in cellars where vegetables and other articles mold it will destroy the fungus. It is very penetrating and has bleaching prop- erties. Articles that would be injured by this gas should be removed and disinfected by other means. Fragant Odor. A pleasant odor may be imparted to a sick cham- ber by a small quantity of the oil of sandal wood upon a hot shovel or on the top of a hot stove. ACCIDENTS AND EMERGENCIES. What to Do. If an artery is cut red blood spurts. Bandage it above the wound. If a vein is cut, dark blood flows. Bandage it above and below the wound. If choked get upon all fours and cough. A sharp blow between the shoulders may help in expelling whatever is in the throat or cesphagus. For slight burns, dip the part into cold water; if the skin is destroyed cover with linseed oil, Common baking soda is a good remedy for burns. 466 STANDARD RECEIPTS. Send for a physician in case of a serious accident, but do what is here directed till he comes. Clothing Catching Fire. If you see a person whose clothing is on fire, throw him to the ground and roll him over and over. Throw a coat, rug, carpet, or any banket at hand over him. The object of this is to prevent the flames being swallowed. Scalds and Burns. These are common accidents, and an under- standing of what to do may save a life and much suffering. The first, best, and often the only remedies necessary are sheets of fine wadding or cotton and flour or chalk. The object is to exclude the ir, because if the air is excluded, and care is taken not to expose the tender part till a new skin is formed, nature generally effects a cure. Incase of a scald or burn cover immediately the part with a sheet of wadding or cotton, taking care not to break any blister that may have formed, or even waiting to cut away burnt clothing that may adhere to the surface. Cover immediately to keep out the air. A coating of oil over the cotton is a great help in keeping out the air. A light bandage to firmly hold the cotton in place should then be used. When their is no cotton at hand, cover the wound with flour. IF THE SKIN IS BADLY INJURED and the cotton can not be readily obtained, cover some linen with fresh butter or lard and lay the same over the part, and give the patient if much exhausted, a little brandy. If not much injured, yet very painful, dip cotton in lime and linseed oil and apply. If nothing else is handy scraped raw potato may be used, or put on common molasses and dust the surface over with flour. Cuts and Wounds. Clean-cut-wounds, whether deep or only superficial, which are likely to easily heal, should be washed with an antiseptic lotion, and then evenly and smoothly closed by bringing both edges together and securing them in that position by adhesive plaster. Cut the adhesive plaster into thin strips and fasten on one side of the cut, then bringing the parts of the wound together, edge to edge fasten the loose end. Ordinary cuts are easily dressed in this way, but if the cut be large and the edges difficult to hold together some assistance from a second person may be necessary. Bruises or “Black and Blue Spots.’’ Put on hot water cloths or if there is much pain, a hot poultice, renewing the same every two hours. Dirt in the Eye. Dirt in the eye generally adheres to the upper STANDARD RECEIPTS. 467 or lower lid. As the lower lid is the more easily examined it is well to see if the dirt is adhering to this part. ‘This is done by standing in front of the person, and pressing the finger upon the flesh of the cheek- bone and drawing down the skin. Then if the dirt is in sight it can be removed by the moist corner of a handkerchief. If the dirt is not on the lower lid, place a match or knitting kneedle over the upper lid, and by pressing downward, and at the same time raising the upper lid it will be turned inside out. This will expose to view the offending particle which may be removed as before. The eye should then be bathed in cold water and the light excluded. If the inflammation is severe, put on cold tea leaves or scraped potato or bathe in salt and water. Fainting and Fits. Fainting is caused by a lack of blood to the brain, which has been caused by the stoppage of the heart or the blood going to some other part of the body. Place the person who has fainted on the back with head low; loosen the clothing about the neck and chest; sprinkle cold water in the face; and apply smelling salts to the nostrils. Do not raise the head higher than the body, uuless the face is red, or dark colored, which is an indication that it is not an ordinary fainting fit, and should be treated differently. In cases of this kind raise the person on a seat and put cold water on the head immediately. PAINT AND VARNISHES. When to Paint. Paints put on late in the fall or early in the spring, when the weather is cold and there is no dust or bothersome in- sects will last longer than if applied at any other time. The cold weath- er seems to delay drying and the paint hardens on the surface, often forming a surface that a knife blade will hardly penetrate. Glossy or Dead Surface. Paint mixed with turpentine will give a dead surface, while one mixed with oil produces a gloss. When paints contain both oil and turpentine the paint loses its gloss in pro- portion as the oil is lessened and the turpentine increased. Paints should never be put upon a damp surface; let the boards thoroughly dry after rain or showers before painting. Never put on the second coat of paint till the first is thoroughly dry. Use a little more dryer when the weather is cold than when it is warm. Keep the paint thoroughly stirred so as to have it of a uniform thickness. To Kill Knots Before Painting. Shellac varnish is most com- monly used. If the paint is of a deep color shade, red lead may be mixed 468 STANDARD RECEIPTS. with it to advantage. On the side of buildings where the sun strikes very directly in the afternoon, cover the knot with oil and glue-size, and apply the thinnest tinfoil that can be found. Silver leaf is better, less liable to come off and is not very expensive. It is the heat from the sun and stove that draws the pitch out of the knot through the paint. Sticky Painted Surfaces. Often after painting it is found that the surface is sticky. ‘The back of a chair may stick to a coat or dress, or the paint on the door stick to the hand on opening or closing. This can be overcome by giving the surface a coat of Japan and turpentine, which should be well rubbed in. How to Mix Paints. ‘The first named color is to be used in the largest quantity. ‘The others according to the shade required. Buff is made by mixing White, Yellow Ochre, and Red. Cream is made dy mixing White and Yellow Ochre. Fawn is made by mixing White, Yellow, and Red. Flesh is made by mixing White, Yellow Ochre, and Vermilion. Gray is made by mixing White and Black. Gold is made by mixing White, Stone Ochre, and Red. Lemon is made by mixing White and Chrome Yellow. Peach is made by mixing White and Vermilion. Pink is made by mixing White, Vermilion, and Lake. Rose is made by mixing White and Madder Lake. Chestnut is made by mixing Red, Black, and Yellow. Maroon is made by mixing Red, Black, and Medium Yellow. Claret is made by mixing Red, Umber, and Black. Copper is made by mixing Red, Yellow, and Black. Violet is made by mixing Red, Blue, and White. Dark Brown is made by mixing Red, Black, and Blue. Orange is made by mixing Yellow and Red. Olive is made by mixing Yellow, Blue, Black, and White. Grass-Green is made by mixing Lemon Yellow and Bronze Green. Snuff is made by mixing Yellow and Vandyke Brown. Turkey-Red is made by mixing Vermilion and Black. Cracks of the Floor. Use putty to fill the cracks of the floor, before painting; apply with an old knife, and smooth neatly. If the floor has never been painted before give it oue coat before applying the putty. Stain for Floors. If it is desirable to stain a floor that has been previously oiled, it is easily done by first washing the floor with strong STANDARD RECEIPTS. 469 copperas-water, and when dry, rubbing it carefully with linseed-oil, giving it two coats. It can be kept bright by wiping it with a damp cloth. Walnut Stain. Black-walnut stain may be made at home if the black-walnut bark can be procured. Slowly boil an ounce of the bark in a pint of water for an hour, and then add a lump of alum the size of a hickory nut to set the color. Varnishing Old Furniture. Twocommon mistakes frequently made in varnishing are in preparing the article for varnishing and in us- ing too much varnish. The furniture or woodwork should first be washed with soap and warm water to remove all dust and grease, and then wiped perfectly dry. Turpentine can be used to thin the var- nish as the work proceeds. Woods finished in oil that look dull or cloudy can be freshened by rubbing them with a flannel cloth on which a little of the following mixture has been poured: equal parts of turpen- tine and linseed oil, put in a bottle and shaken until thoroughly mixed. The success of the work depends upon using a small quantity of the mixture, and plenty of friction. To Not Injure the Gloss. ‘Thie is at times an important matter, and has been a problem with those who have had much of it to do. The Palace car companies direct that the highly polished surfaces of the interior of their cars, be cleaned with a mixture of powdered soap and tripoli, in proportions of about three parts of soap to seven of tripoli, ap- plied with a wet sponge. The slight solvent action of the soap does not injure the varnished surface, but it removes the dirt, and the grit of the tripoli, which must be very fine, cuts off such matter as the soap fails to remove. How to Polish Furniture. Once the polish mixture is obtained the chief thing is the rubbing. Any lack of this will be sure to result in disappointment and failure. Skill is less requisite than perseverance. Wax Polish. ‘The ingredients for this simple polish can be found in nearly every household. It isa good polish and will keep well and be always ready for use. 2 ounces Beeswax, 3 ounce’ White Soap, 1 pint Boiling Water, Apply by rubbing a little with a cloth on a small space at a time, rub with a second cloth and polish with a third. 470 STANDARD RECEIPTS. To Soften Varnish. Apply ammonia freely, using a sponge fast- ened to a handle, and as soon as the varnish softens it may be scraped away with a knife or a piece of glass. An application of strong spirits of camphor will remove almost any varnish or polish from furniture, but care must be taken to allow plenty of time for the spirits of camphor to evaporate before repolishing or varnishing, as the camphor will in- jure the riew coat. Resin Polish. The base of this polish is resin, and after the liquids are evaporated there is left a thin covering of very fine resin, which is very hard and glossy. 2 ounces Resin, 4 ounces Ether, 12 ounces Alcohol, 2 ounces Balsam Fir, 8 ounces Boiled Linseed Oil. Keep this polish well protected from the air, as it will soon evaporate and leave only oil and resin behind. Simple Polish. A simple and reliable polish that is used to re- move finger marks. 1 pint Olive Oil, 2 pints Vinegar. Shake well before using and apply with a woolen cloth, after which rub vigorously with a dry cloth of the same material, or use a chamois instead. Common Furniture Polish. Where the varnish of furniture has become old and much tarnished use this polish. 4 ounces Shellac, 1 pint Spirits Turpentine, 2 pints Alcohol, 4 ounces Ether, 3 pints Linseed Oil, 4 ounces Ammonia. Mix thoroughly the shellac and alcohol, and then add the other in- gredients. Shake well when using and apply with a sponge. Oil Polish. When there are cracks in the varnish, this polish will fili them and make the surface appear new. 2 pints Linseed Oil, 2 ounces Butter of Ammonia, 4 pint Alcohol. % pint Spirits Turpentine, $ pint Vinegar. Shake well before using and apply with a woolen rubber, that is a woolen cloth over a smooth piece of hard wood. Finishing Polish. Take one-half pint spirits of wine, two drams shellac and two drams gum benzoin. Put these ingredients into a bottle STANDARD RECEIPTS. 471 and keep it in a warm place until the gum is all dissolved, stirring it fre- quently. When cold, add two tea-spoonfuls of the best clear white poppy oil. Shake all well tcgether and the polish is then ready for use. Keep well stirred while using. This preparation is useful for finishing after any of the foregoing re- ceipts; as it adds to the lustre and durability of the polish, and removes any defects left by the latter. It gives the surface a most brilliant ap- pearance. It is used the same as the polishes; but in order to remove dull places the pressure in rubbiug must be increased. Olive oil and water, mixed in the palm of the hand, is said to be the best means of polishing pianos and organs. Mix and rub on vigor: ously with the hand. French Polish. A method largely used in France for imparting to furniture a brilliant and lasting polish is described as follows: a solu- tion is made by beating gum acacia and the whites of two eggs ina mortar until they thoroughly mix, then a half pint each of raw linseed oil and best vinegar are added, together with eight ounces methylated spirits of wine, one ounce hydrochloric acid, and two ounccs muriate of antimony. To use the French polish properly, only a very small quantity must be nsed at a time; and it must be applied with a rubber made witha ball of cotton wool covered over with a soft cotton cloth or linen rag. ‘The ball is dipped into the polish, then covered over with the rag, and this dipped into a drop of linseed oil to prevent it sticking to the wood. Use the rubber gently, polishing from a centre in a circular motion. Finish with a drop of spirits of wine on a clean rubber, which will ex- tract the oil. If there is any difficulty in getting polish to ‘‘take,’’ rub the wood over first with a rag moistened with a little linseed or olive oil. Re-Varnishing Furniture. When furniture requires re-varnish- ing, it should first be well washed with strong soda water, which will remove every particle of grease. Then wash with soft water into which a little vinegar, (oxalic acid is better) has been put. Try to neutralize the soda. Wipe dry and coat with a good quality hard-drying varnish. When dry, rub off with a bunch of curled hair, to remove the gloss, and flow ona full coat of cabinet fiinishing varnish. To Ebonize Pine. The wood isimmersed for forty-eight hours in a hot, saturated solution of alum, and then brushed over several 472 STANDARD RECEIPTS. times with a logwood decoction, prepared as follows: boil one part log- wood with ten parts of water, filter through linen and evaporate at a gentle heat until the volume is reduced to one-half. To every quart of this add from ten to fifteen drops of a saturated solution of indigo, com- pletely neutral. After applying this dye to the wood, rub it with asaturated and filtered solution of verdigrisin hot, concentrated acetic acid, and repeat the operation until a black of the desired intensity is obtained. It must always be retnembered when handling chemicals that great care must be taken to protect the hands. WHITEWASH AND KALSOMINE. Out-Door Whitewash. For the covering of out-buildings or fen ces that have commenced to grow rough from age, the action of the weather, or that need a cheap durable covering, this out-door white wash is without an equal. ‘The zinc and salt hardens the wash and prevents it from cracking. 1 bushel Lime, 4 pounds Sulphate of Zinc, 2 pounds Common Salt. Slack the lime by pouring boiling water over it ina closed barrel. Put water enough on to cover the lime about a foot deep. Stir continu- ally until it is thoroughly slacked. A cream color may be made of this wash by adding six to eight pounds of yellow ochre. ‘This can be read- ily applied with a whitewash brush. United States Lighthouse Whitewash. The keepers of light- houses in the United States were directed by the department of the government having them in charge, to keep the stone and woodwork covered with this whitewash, using it as hot as it was possible. 1 bushel Unslacked Lime, 6 pounds Ground Rive, 1 pound Spanish Whiting, 2 pounds White Glue. Slack the lime in boiling water then strain and add one-half bushel of fine salt, which has been dissolved in warm water. Put the ground rice in boiling water and boil to a thin paste. Dissolve the glue and the whiting in warm water. Mix and let stand for a week, Stir thorough- ly and heat sufficient quantity to use. Put on with large painter’s or whitewash brush. This will last almost as long as lead and oil. STANDARD RECEIPTS. 473 Gloss Whitewash. This preparation applied in the manner in- dicated, will give a fine, smooth, glossy surface. Mix with thin starch paste, a quantity of the oxide of zine and ap- ply with a whitewash brush to the sides and ceiling. Then apply a second coat in which the chloride of zinc has been mixed with the paste. Kalsomine. Whitewash is composed of the milk of lime, but this after several coatings would form a thick crust on the walls, which would scale off, so various articles were tried till zinc white mixed with water and glue were found to be the most satisfactory. This combina- tion is named Kalsomine, and has the advantage over common white- wash of being easily colored. One pound of Kalsomine when mixed according to the following will cover about eighty square feet of side wall or ceiling two coats. For ceilings, use: 3 pound White Glue, 8 pounds Zinc White. For side walls to prevent rubbing off, use 4 pound White Glue, 8 pounds Zince White. Soak the glue over night in water and liquefy over the fire next day. Then add more water and the zinc white. If too much glue is added it will be difficult to put on evenly, and it will be more liable to crack and fall off in scales. Various coloring matter may be mixed with the Kalsomine to give al- most any shade desired. Brick Colored Wash For Walls. Brick fonndations, sidewalls, or chimneys that it seems best to keep the color of the original brick, should have this preparation applied. 2 ounces Cheap Glue, 1 gallon Water, $ pound Venetian Rod, 1 pound Spanish Brown. Dissolve the glue in water and then add about one-half pound of alum. Heat and add the Venetian red and the Spanish brown. If too light in color add more red and brown. Fence Wash. Slack the lime in boiling water and to each three gallons of the ordinary whitewash add one pound fine salt and one pint molasses. ‘Two coats are sufficient. 474 STANDARD RECEIPTS. TO REMOVE STAINS AND GREASE SPOTS. Ink Stains. There are two kinds of ink stains, aniline and gall- nut. Many inks made now are aniline, so it is always best to treat all ink stains first with diluted tartaric acid, increasing its strength until the spot begins to disappear. Should this acid, however, have no effect then treat for ink made from nut-galls. The cloth containing the spot is spread out tightly over a bright, hot, tin plate and rubbed with a hot solution of oxalic acid, using a piece of iron to rub with, such as an iron key. It often happens that in silk goods nothing can be done to remove the stain. Ink Stains on Table Linen. The best way to take ink out of table linen is to soak the spots in sour milk. Put the cloth in the fresh milk and set it where it will turn sour. The process of souring seems to assist in drawing out the stains. Rub the spots after they have been soaking twenty-four hours in the milk, (provided it has curdled in that time), just as you would wash any spot in water. They will finally be- come very faint and may now be washed out in water, and the first time they are put through the weekly washlng the probability is that all traces of the ink stains will have disappeared. Grass Stains. These are very readily removed by moistening with Stannous chloride and rinsing well in water. Fruit Stains. Fruit stains in white goods must be bleached out with Javelle water, (see directions how to make), and well rinsed in clear water. Do not try soap except as a last resort, as it sometimes has the effect of setting the color and rendering the stain difficult to re- move. For colored silks use warm water, Castile soap suds, and ammo- nia. This applies in general to all vegetable stains, including red wine and to red ink stains. An old fashioned way of removing fruit stains is to pour boiling water upon them. ‘This is best done by spreading the section of cloth contain- ing the spot out firmly over a bowl or pan and pouring boiling water upon it from the spout of a tea-kettle. Fruit stains are easily removed fron table-linen by wetting the spots with spirits of camphor befere being washed. If camphor is not at hand whisky will answer. Acid Stains. Excepting those from nitric acid which are perma- nent, acid stains can be neutralized by the action of an alkali, strong ammonia usually being the most effective. If the stain is fresh and of STANDARD RECEIPTS. 475 a red color, it will sometimes disappear by moistening it with water and holding over the mouth of a bottle of ammonia so that the fumes may come in contact with it. In general, however, the acid stain should be neutralized by the direct application, drop by drop, of strong ammonia, meanwhile watching carefully the colors of the fabric, so that they may not be injured. : Coffee Stains. Coffee stains may usually be removed by moisten- ing the spots and holding them over the fumes of a small piece of sul- phur placed in an iron vessel. Sulphur being an acid, the stained parts must at once be carefully washed with water containing a little soda or ammonia to save the fibre from injury. Ifa spot is quite small, it may be moistened and held over the fumes of a few sulphur matches. The vapor from burning sulphur will often remove stains that nothing else will affect. But the fabric must be immediately and thoroughly rinsed in every instance. To Remove Paint. Paint and varnish may be removed by using turpentine, gasolene or benzine. On silk, ether gives the best results. Old spots on woolen goods should be covered with olive oil and allowed to remain for several hours; then treat with chloroform. This applies also to all resinous stains. Kalsomine Stains. Kalsomine yields at once to water and acetic acid, though like all stains, even these simple blemishes may be fixed in cloth, if unduly experimented with. Iron Rust. This is removed by holding the spot over a bowl of water to which a little ammonia has been added, and applying with a glass rod, or a small piece of wood, eighteen per cent, muriatic acid. ‘The instant the stain disappears immerse the spot in the water thereby preventing the acid from affecting the texture of the cloth. Before using muriatic acid, it is best to test it om one corner of the fabric. Should you find that it changes the colors, then treat as for ink stains described above. Mildew. Generally speaking mildew is not affected by chemicals, though it sometimes yields to their action. It may best be treated with a stiff paste made by boiling down Castile soap shavings, spreading a thick layer of this upon the stain and scattering over it some powdered potash. . Moisten slightly with water and bleach out on the grass. Javelle Water or Bleaching Compound. Javelle water for bleaching white goods is prepared as follows: place one pound of chlor- ide of lime in an earthen jar having a tight cover and add four and a 476 : STANDARD RECEIPTS. half pints of water. Dissolve in a separate vessel twenty ounce of or- dinary washing soda and pour into the first solution. When cold add two more pints of water, making eleven pints in all. Strain through muslin and allow it to settle and pour off the resulting clear liquid. Candle Grease. Parafine or tallow is best removed with chloro- form, though every housekeeper knows the old trick of ironing over a piece of blotting paper. Grease and Oil. Grease and oil spots in wash goods may be re- moved with soap, ammonia, and water. For silks try first absorption, which is done by sprinkling the spot heavily with chalk or magnesia, placing a piece of blotting paper on both sides and ironing with a warm iron. Many a man who thinks he knows the best way to eradicate this most common of all stains finds that within a few weeks after treatment the garment has an unsightly ring where the spot was. ‘This is due to the fact that when the stain was rubbed and the grease loosened, it, lacking an absorbent, spread itself into the surrounding fabric. This is the right way to remove a greasespot. ‘Take benzine, turpen- tine, gasolene, or best of all, ether, and moisten a large ring around the grease spot, gradually working towards the center; when this is reached immediately saturate two pieces of blotting paper with the spirit, place one beneath and the other above and press with a weight. By this means the grease will be absorbed as soon as dissolved. Care must be taken in the use of ether, gasolene, or benzine, not to bring it near a flame, as the vapors of all three are highly inflammable. HARNESS AND LEATHER. To Preserve Harness. First remove the dirt with a moist sponge. Do not-use too much water, nor any soap. No harness gets so muddy that a moist sponge will not remove the dust, if cleaned while the mud is moist. Now give the leather a good coat of lampblack and castor or neat’s-foot oil. Then with a good warm soap-suds sponge the harness thorougly removing all the dirt. When the harness becomes dry, rub it over with a mixture of oil and tallow, equal parts, with which has been mixed lampblack or Prussian blue to give it color. Do not use more of this last compound of oil and tallow than is actually necessary, and rub it in thoroughly. Leather Blacking. Take one ounce of copperas and one and one- half pints of water, and thoroughly mix. This is used by harness mak- STANDARD RECEIPTS. 477 ers and shoemakers for blacking the edges of newly cut leather, or staining places that have become red or ‘‘foxy.’’ Water-proof Blacking. A blacking that will not injure the leath- er is most desirable. There is no ingredient in this blacking that is in any way destructive to the fibre. 15 pounds Beeswax, 3 ounces Linseed Oil, 1$ ounces Prussian Blue, 6 ounces Ivory Black, 1 ounce Copal Varnish, 6 ounces Soft Soap, 1 pint Oil of Turpentine. Mix well together by gentle heating and keep the paste in old tin fruit cans. Uncolored Leather. Russet lines, shoes, and uncolored leather may be nicely cleaned and made to look almost as good as new, by ap- plying with a sponge a very weak solution of oxalic acid dissolved in water. Old Harness Made Like New. Harness after long exposure to the air loses its luster and turns brown, and requires a new coat of blacking. This will not enter the grain, while there is any grease on the surface, and it must be removed by a careful washing in potash water. After drying apply a coating of the LEATHER BLACKING. Then apply a coating of oil to the surface to fasten the color and make the harness pliable. BOOTS AND SHOES. To Make Water-Proof. Melt together equal quantities of bees- wax and mutton suet. While warm rub over the shoe or boot, soles as well as top. To Soften. Leather that has hardened by water may be made soft and pliable by an application of kerosene oil. Neat’s-foot oil, well rub- bed in, is the best and most lasting for restoring softness and pliancy to leather, that has become hard. Brilliant Liquid Blacking. A liquid blacking is easily applied and while not so often used on men’s shoes, it is always the article ap- plied to ladies’ and children’s shoes. 1 pound Ivory Black, 1 pint Molasses, 2 ounces Sweet Oil, 1 pint of each, Beer and Vinegar. Rub together the first three, till the oil seems to have disappeared, then add the beer and vinegar. 478 STANDARD RECEIPTS. Oil Paste Blacking. This is made of the same ingredients as the foregoing, only the quantity of beer and vinegar is reduced so that the result is a paste instead of a liquid. CLEANING AND POLISHING. To Clean Copper or Brass. The next time you think you have done with a lemon just dip it in salt and rub your copper kettle with it. You will be surprised to find what a brilliant surface you will obtain if you rub the article instantly with a dry soft cloth. You can polish all brass work by the same means, every stain disappearing as if by magic. If the brass is on furniture in the shape of knobs or ornaments use either powdered whiting or scraped rotten stone, mix with sweet oil and rub on with chamois skin. Cleaning Brass. 1. Rub the surface of the metal with rotten stone and sweet oil, then rub off with a piece of cotton flannel and polish with soft leather. 2. A solution of oxalic acid rubbed over tarnished brass soon re- moves the tarnish, rendering the metal bright. Theacid must be wash- ed off with water, and the brass rubbed with whitning and soft leather. 3. A mixture of muriatic acid and alum dissolved in water, imparts a golden color to brass articles that are steeped in it for a few seconds. 4. Put together two ounces sulphuric acid, an ounce and a half nitric acid, one dram saltpetre and two ounces rain water. Let stand for a few hours, and apply by passing the article in and out quickly, and then washing off thoroughly with clean rain water. Old discolored brass chains treated in this way will look equally as well as when new. Silver, Keeping Bright and Clean. ‘To clean silver never use a particle of soap on your silver-ware, as it dulls the lustre, giving the article more the appearance of pewter than silver. When it wants clean- ing rub it with a piece of soft leather and the following mixtures: 4 pound prepared Chalk or Whiting, qz ounce Gum Camphor. 1 ounce each of Aqua Ammonia and Alcohol. 3 ounces Benzine. Mix well together, and apply with a soft sponge, and allow it to dry before polishing. To Keep Bright. For the preservation of the lustre of articles of silver or plated ware, when not needed for actual use for a considerable STANDARD RECEIPTS. 479 time, a coating of collodion (to be had at the drug stores), may be em- ployed to great advantage. ‘The articles are to be heated, and the col- iodion then carefully applied by means of a brush, so as to cover the sur- face thoroughly and uniformly. It is used most conveniently when di- luted with alcohol, as for photographic purposes. Articles thus pre- pared exhibit no trace whatever of their covering, and have stood for more than a year in shop windows and in dwellings, retaining their white + lustre and color, while other pieces not thus prepared became seriously tarnished. To Clean Silver. One of the largest britannia firms in New Eng- land recommends the following to clean silver. 4 pound Sal-soda, 8 quarts Water. When at a boiling heat dip the pieces of silver, and immediately wash in soap suds, and wipe dry with a piece of cotton flannel. Silver Polish. There is no better silver polish than the old fash- ioned Spanish Whiting, when moistened and applied with a soft flan- nel and a silver brush. When dry, rub with a chamois and dry whit- ing. To Keep the Stove Bright. Mix the stove blacking with vin- egar to the consistency of cream, add pinch of sugar, put on with a brush, and polish with old newspapers. It will give a beautiful and lasting polish. To Clean Marble. To clean marble, take two parts of common soda, one part of pumice stone, and one part of finely powdered chalk; sift it through a fine sieve and mix with water; then rub it well over the marble, and the stains will be removed; finally, rub the marble over with salt and water. To Clean Willow Ware. To clean willow furniture which is not varnished, use salt and water. Apply it with a stiff brush, scrub well and dry thoroughly. To Whiten Ivory. Rub with finely powdered pumice-stone and water, and expose to the sun while still moist, placing over ita glass shade to prevent cracking. Repeat the treatment until the proper hue is produced. Keeping a piano open on fine days so the sun’s rays will fall directly on the keys, will keep the latter from turning yellow. To Clean Steel. Mix emery powder with linseed oil and form a paste; rub it on with a piece of flannel. Do not let it remain on but at once rub off with emery powder till the steel is bright. Polish with 480 STANDARD RECEIPTS. a leather. If rusty, clean first with fine sand paper, and then apply the emery as instructed. To Clean Glass. First wash well with a soft sponge, using clear water and squeezing the sponge as dry as possible. Then dip the damp sponge in whiting and rub over the surface of the glass. When dry rub clean with a soft cloth. PASTE, GLUE, AND MUCILAGE. Paste, That Will Keep. Dissolve a teaspoonful of alum in a quart of warm water. When cold, stir in as much flour as will give it the consistency of thick cream, being particular to beat up all the lumps; stir in as much powdered resin as will stand on a dime, and throw in half-a-dozen cloves to give a pleasant odor. Have on the fire a teacup- ful of boiling water; pour the flour mixture into it, stirring well all the time. In a very few minutes it will be of the consistency of mush. Pour it into jars and when wanted for use it can be readily thinned with water. Liquid Glue. First soak in cold water all the glue you wish to make at one time, using only glass, earthen, or porcelain dishes; then by gentle heat dissolve the glue in the same water, and pour ina little nitric acid, sufficient to give the glue a sour taste, like vinegar, or one ounce to each pound of glue. Water-Proof Glue. One ounce of gum sandarac and one ounce of mastic are to be dissolved together in a pint of alcohol, to which one ounce of white turpentine is to be added. At thesame time avery thick glue is to be kept ready, mixed with a little isinglass. The solution of the resins in alcohol is to be heated to boiling in a glue pot, and the glue added gradually with constant stirring, so as to tender the whole mass homogeneous. After the solution is strained through a cloth, it is ready for use, and is to be applied hot. It dries quickly and becomes very hard, and surfaces of wood united by it do not separate when immersed in water. Glue as Mucilage. ‘ake of isinglass and parchment size, each one ounce, sugar candy and gum tragacanth, each two drams; add to them one ounce water, and boil the whole together till the solution ap- pears (when cold) of the consistency of glue; then pour it into any form you please. If this glue be wet with the tongue. and rubbed on the edges of paper, silk or leather that are to be cemented, they will, being STANDARD RECEIPTS. 481 laid together, pressed slightly, and suffered to dry, be as firmly united as other parts of the substance. Elastic Glue. If glue or gelatine is incorporated with about one- quarter of its weight of glycerine, it loses its brittleness, and becomes useful for many purposes for which it is otherwise unfit, such as dressing leather, giving elasticity to parchment or enameled paper, and for book- binding. Mucilage. 1. Put three ounces of gum arabic in an earthenware vessel containing half a pint of cold water. If the liquid is occasionally stirred, the gum in twenty-four hours will be dissolved and the mixture ready for use. Cloves will keep it from moulding. 2. Fine clean glue, one pound; gum arabic, ten ounces; water, one quart; melt by heat in a glue kettle or water-bath; when entirely melted, add slowly ten ounces strong nitric acid, and set off to cool. Then bot- tle, adding a couple of cloves to each bottle. WAGON TIRES AND FENCE POSTS. Wagon Tires Kept From Loosening. If this plan is careful- ly followed, tires on wagons will not get loose and require resetting. Use a tin-pan long and narrow, and deep and fill with oil, setting it on an oil stove. Let the oil come to a boiling heat, and then placing the stove and pan near a post or studding, hang the wheel on a peg put in the post or studding, so that the felloe of the wheel will run in the oil. Thoroughly soak each felloe an hour. The timber should be dry, as green timber will not take oil. Care should be taken that the oil is not made hotter than a boiling heat or the timber will be burned. Timber filled with oil is not susceptible of injury by water, and is rendered much more durable by this process. Fence Posts. Any sort of timber, when employed for fence-posts will be more than twice as durable if allowed to become well seasoned before being set in the ground: ‘The durability of seasoned posts may be promoted, so as to make them last for an age, by the application of a heavy coat of coal-tar to the portion buried in the earth, anda few in- ches above the surface of the tar. The ground-end may be put in hot tar and let boil for fifteen minutes. When cool, cover with coal-tar thickened with ground slate or ground brick. The boiling causes the pores to absorb tar. The coating prevents the action of moisture. But such a treatment of green posts would do but very little good and per- haps mischief. The better way is to season the post well before setting 4&2 STANDARD RECEIPTS. it, and when the post-hole is filled to within ten inches of the surface of the ground, to apply a heavy coat of tar and fill up with earth. As fence-posts always decay near the surface of the ground, it is only nec- essary to protect the post a few inches above the surface, and about a foot below it. The timber begins to decay, usually on the surface of the posts. Therefore, if the surface can be protected by some antisep- tic material, posts will last a lifetime. ANNOYING INSECTS. Exterminating Insects. By scattering chloride of lime on a plank in a stable, biting flies are driven away. Sprinkling beds of veg- etables with a weak solution of this salt effectually preserves them from caterpillars, slugs, etc. It has the same effect when sprinkled on fruit- trees and shrubbery. Mixed in a paste with fatty matter, and applied in a narrow band around the trees, it prevents insects from creep- ing up. Another plan is to carry all the toads you can find to your gardens. They will devour immense number of bugs. A toad will swallow the largest specimen of the tomato worm, though sometimes he will have a hard time of it. Hens, wasps, and spiders are all devourers of your enemies. A com- mon duck will go up and down rows of tomato and potato vines, and pick off the large worms usually found on such vines, as fast it can see them; and they willsee a half dozen when a man could not see one. Young turkeys will do the same service, though they are not so easily controlled and guided. All fallen fruit is to be picked up once or twice a day, and boiled, and then given to your cattle to be devoured. By doing this it will pay ten times over, and the result of it will be that the next year you will not have insects. To Exterminate Bed Bugs. ‘There are various remedies for getting rid of these annoying insects. The following are the most re- liable. 1. Put a few drops of oil of cinnamon into naptha and annoint the openings and cracks. Do not take near fire or burning lamp. 2. Two ounces red arsenic, one-quarter pound of white soap, one-half ounce of camphor dissolved in a teaspoonful of alcohol, made into a paste of the consistency of cream. Use to annoint the bedstead. STANDARD RECEIP'S. 483 To Destroy the Striped Bug. The striped bug on cucumbers and melons may be destroyed as follows: 1. By a strong solution of hen-house manure—sav one peck of the manure to one and a half gallons of water; let it stand twenty-four honrs and sprinkle the plants freely with it after sunset. 2. By sifting charcoal dust over the plants; if repeated three or four times the plants will be entirely freed from the annoyance. 3. Plant a few kernels of buckwheat in each hill of cucumbers or mel- ons, and striped bugs will not trouble the vines. Roach Exterminator. Borax is one of the best roach extermin- ators. ‘There is something either in the odor or touch of borax which is certain death to them. Purchase it pulverized and sprinkle around the infested places. Red Ants. Sprinkle oil of pennyroyal on the pantry shelves and the ants will disappear. Flies on Horses. As a preventive of horses being teased by flies, take two or three small handfuls of walnut leaves, upon which pour two or three quarts of cold water; let it infuse for one night, and pour the whole next morning intoa kettle, and let it boil for fifteen minutes. When it becomes cold it will be fit for use. No more is required than to moisten a sponge, and, before the horse goes out of the stable, let those parts which are most irritable be smeared over with the liquor— namely, between and upon the ears, the neck, the flanks, etc. Not only the lady or gentleman who rides out for pleasure will derive pleas- ure from the walnut leaves thus prepared, but the coachman, the wag- oner, and all others who use horses during the summer. To Keep out Mosquitoes. 1. Oil of pennyroyal scattered about in small quantities. This is best sprayed about the room with a per- fume atomizer. 2. Take of gum camphor a piece about one-third the size of an egg, and evaporate it by placing it in a tin vessel, and holding it over a lamp or candle, taking care that it does not ignite. The fumes will soon fill the room and expel the mosquitoes. 3. Carbolic acid has recently been successfully used for the extermin- ation of mosquitoes and flies. A small piece of cloth saturated with the acid, was hung in the room, and in two hours the flies had entirely disappeared. In the evening the acid was tried in the kitchen where the mosquitoes were very troublesome, and there it met with the same success. 484 STANDARD RECEIPTS. To Prevent Mosquito Biting. 1. Dilute a little of the oil of thyme with sweet oil, and dip pieces of paper in it. Hang in your room or ruba little on the hands and face when going to bed. 2. Petroleum is a good mosquito bar, if used in this way; a little coal oil is dropped on some raw cotton, the excess of it squeezed out, and the cotton then rubbed over the face and hands. The little pests will not come near. ‘The remedy seems nearly as bad as the disease; to those who do not mind the smell of kerosene it will be found to be very useful. To Cure Mosquito Bites. 1. Apply sweet spirits of nitre to mos- quito bites and it will draw out all the soreness and itching, if the skin is not broken by scratching it. 2. Apply at once a few drops of aqua ammonia, or an infusion of to- bacco, either of which will allay the itching and soreness almost imme- diately. 3. Carbolic acid has also been tried, and with good success, but it should be diluted, to prevent producing a blister. Bee and Wasp Stings. 1. These stings though very painful are - not dangerous to a healthy person, unless in the mouth, throat, or eye- lid. The sting of a bee being barbed at the end, it is always left in the wound, and should when possible, be carefully removed. That of a wasp is pointed only, so that they can sting more than once, which a bee cannot do. If, after the sting of the bee is extracted, the wound be sucked, very little inflammation will follow; and if spirits of ammonia be then applied, a prompt healing will result. 2. Common whiting, moistened with water, and applied immediately, and in a few minutes washed off, will prevent pain and swelling from following the sting of a bee or wasp. 3. The slice of a common onion rubbed on the sting of a wasp, or, if in the throat, chewed slowly and the piece swallowed, will result in a certain cure. The Bites of Bees, Wasps, Hornets, scorpions, etc., may be instantly relieved by the immediate and free application of spirits of hartshorn as a wash to the part bitten. ‘The part may afterwards be covered with a little sweet oil. Harvest Bug. The best remedy is benzine, which immediately kills the ifisect. A drop of tincture of iodine has the same effect. Many sufferers prevent the attacks by sprinkling a little benzine over the stockings before walking. STANDARD RECEIPTS. 485 To Destroy Cockroaches. 1. Strew the roots of black hellebore at night, in the places infested by these vermin, and they will be found in the morning dead or dying. Black hellebore grows in marshy ground. where it may easily be gathered, or it may be purchased at any drug store. 2. Take pulverized borax, four ounces; flour, one ounce; mix inti- mately and distribute the mixture in cupboards which are frequented by the roaches, or blow it by means of a bellows, into the holes or cracks that are infested by them. 3. Take carbolic acid and powdered camphor in equal parts; put them in a bottle; they will become fluid. With a painter’s brush of the size called a sash-tool, put the mixture on the cracks or places where the roaches hide; they will come out at once. Then kill. Fleas on Dogs and Cats. Fleas are usually brought into the family circles by pet dogs and cats. The oil of pennyroyal will drive these insects off; but a cheaper method, where the herb flourishes, is to throw your cats and dogs into a strong tea made by steeping the penny- royal in water. When the herb cannot be got, the oil can be procured. In this case, saturate strings with it and tie them round the necks of dogs and cats. ‘These applications should be repeated every twelve or fifteen days. To Kill Caterpillars. Boil together equal quantities of rue, wormwood, and tobacco, in common water. The liquid should be very strong. Sprinkle it on the leaves and young branches every morning and evening during the time tle fruit is ripening. To Kill Crickets. A little ginger and water placed in a dish be fore the fire will attract the crickets, and on partaking of the liquor they will die. ‘The best mode of destroying the insects in their nest is to put snuff into the chinks of the grate. Moths in Clothing and Furs. Either one of the following methods will keep out the moths provided the clothes are put away without any eggs being on them. Put in boxes and PASTE PAPER ALL AROUND THE COVER, making it impossible for them to get in. . Sprinkle allspice berrics among the clothes. 2. Sprinkle the clothes with the seeds of the musk plant. 3. Procure shavings of camphor-wood, and enclose in bags. 4. Procure shavings of cedar-wood, and enclose in muslin bags, which should be distributed among the clothes. 5. An ounce of gum camphor and one of the powdered shell of red 486 STANDARD RECEIPTS. pepper are macerated in eight ounces of strong alcohol for several days, then strained. With this tincture the furs or clothes are sprinkled over and rolled up in sheets. 6. Carefully shake and brush woolens in the spring, so as to be cer- tain that no eggs are in them; then sew them up in cotton or linen wrappers, putting a piece of camphor gum, tied up ina bit cf muslin, into each bundle, or into the chests and closets where the articles are to lie. No moth will approach while the smell of camphor continues. When the gum is evaporated it must be renewed. Enclose them in a moth-proof box with camphor. Furs or woolens put away in spring time, before moth eggs are laid, into boxes, trunks, or closets even, where moths cannot enter, will be safe from the ravages of mothworms, provided none were in them that were laid late in the autumn, for they are not of spontaneous production. Flies, Their Habits and Kinds. Flies are scavengers and eat not only the sweet things and fresh blood, but also things unclean, espe- cially decaying animal substances. With their proboscis, sucking up the juices which by evaporation would contaminate the air, they are very useful indeed, in the houses of slovenly housekeepers. The blue-bottle, or blow-fly, deposits its eggs on animal substances, which are recognized as fly-blows. Ina warm temperature they hatch in three or four hours after they are laid, and then are called larve or maggots. The maggots from three flies will consume a dead horse al- most as quickly asa lion. So voracious are they that they increase in weight about two hundred times in twenty-four hours. The flesh-fly, a little longer than the blow-fly, drops living maggots on dead fish, the maggots being hatched within the fly. The cheese-fly is very small; of a shining black color, with transparent wings and yellow hind legs. It deposits about two hundred or two hundred and fifty eggs into the cracks in cheese, which are developed in- to skippers. The maggots of some species of flies spin cocoons; with others, the skin simply hardens and incases the pupa, or chrysalis. At length the fully developed fly makes its escape by forcing off with its head the chrysalis case. The different-sized flies, are different varieties, and not young and old, as some suppose; for flies never grow to any very perceptible extent. A large pooportion of the swarms of flies hatched during the warm weather of summer are destroyed by the frosts of winter. Only a few that are so STANDARD RECEIPTS. 487 fortunate as to find shelter and warm places escape; and in similar situa- tions, some of them pass the winter in chrysalis state, and only hatch out when warm weather returns. ‘The house-fly is a domestic insect, and is said never to be found except in the vicinity of man’s present or recent home. To Destroy Flies. House flies are present just in proportion to the dirt and uncleanliness there is ina house. ‘The cleaner the house and surroundings, the fewer flies there will be. Try any of the reme- dies here suggested and be rewarded by a decrease of these annoying pests. 1. They may be effectually destroyed by putting half a spoonful of black pepper in powder on a teaspoonful of brown sugar, and one tea- spoonful of cream; mix them well together and place them in a room where the flies are troublesome, and they will soon disappear. 2. Laurel oil, freely used, the smell of which, although a little strong, is not very offensive, drives away flies ; and they dare not come near the walls or the wainscots which have been rubbed with it. 3. Flies usually propagate in stables and they can be kept away so as to prevent annoyance to the animals or further propagation by scatter- ing about in the stables, sawdust which is saturated with dilute carbolic acid (one part acid to one hundred parts water). A similar application to the kitchen floor will keep them away. Sticky Fly Paper. Melt resin in any vessel over the fire, and while soft add to it enough sweet oil to make it as thick as molasses. Spread upon writing paper with a brush and it will not dry ina long time and is so sticky as to hold fast the legs of any insect attracted to it, or accidentally coming in contact. It may be placed about the house, the pantry or elsewhere, and will soon attract and hold fast ants and other insects. It is also used on table legs, the edges of shelves and other places to prevent the ascent of ants. Strips of this paper fastened close- ly about the trunks of trees, plants, etc., the varnish side out, prevents the ascent of insects. It possesses the great advantage over the ordinary fly papers in that it is not poisonous. 4. Put about a quart of water sweetened with molasses in a tin wash basin or smooth glazed china bowls. Set it at evening in a place fre- quented by the bugs. Around the basin put an old piece of carpet that the bugs may have easy access tothe top. They will go down in the water, and can not get out. 5. Mix up a quantity of fresh burned plaster of paris (gypsum, such as is used for making molds and ornaments), with wheat flour and a 488 STANDARD RECEIPTS. little sugar, and distribute on shallow plates and box boards, and place in the corners of the kitchen and pantry, where they frequent. In the darkness they will feast themselves on it. After three or four nights renewal of the preparation, no cockroaches will be found on the premises. Moths in Carpets. Wring a coarse towel out of clear water, spread it smoothly on the carpet, iron it dry with a good hot iron, re- peating the operation on all parts of the carpet suspected of being in- fested with moths. No need to press hard, and neither the pile nor color of the carpet will be injured, and the moths will be destroyed by the heat and steam. RATS AND MICE. To Kill or Drive Away Rats. 1. Mix some fine plaster of Paris with an equal quantity of flour; put the mixture in the place infested by the vermin, and a vessel full of water beside it. The rats will devour the mixture and then drink; whereupon the plaster, brought in contact with the water, will become solid, and like a stone in their stomachs, and will cause their death. This method is evidently highly preferable to the use of arsenic, which is always attended with danger. 2. Mix up the following and put on bread or cheese : 3 ounces Sugar. 1 pound Flour, 8 ounces Sulphur. 8 ounces Phosphorus. 3. When a house is infested by rats which refuse to nibble at toasted cheese, and the usual baits, a few drops of the highly scented oil of rho- dium, poured on the bottom of a cage top, will always attract before morning. Where a trap baited with all manner of edibles had failed to attract a single rat, the oil of rhodium caused it to be completely crowded night after night. 4. Mix powdered nux vomica with oatmeal, and lay itin their haunts, observing proper caution to prevent accidents. 5. (PHOSPHORUS PASTE.) ‘Take of phosphorus one part, liquify it in twenty parts of luke-warm water, pour the whole into a mortar, and add immediately twenty parts of rye meal ; when cold, mix twenty parts of butter melted, and fifteen parts of sugar. If the phosphorus is in a finely-divided state, the ingredients may be all mixed at once, without STANDARD RECEIPTS. 489 melting them. ‘This mixture will retain its efficacy for many years, for the phosphorus is preserved by the butter and only becomes oxydized on the surface. Rats and mice eat this mixture with avidity, after which they swell out and soon die. 6. Cover the floor near their holes, with a thin layer of moist caustic potash. When the rats walk on this it makes their feet sore. These they lick with their tongues, which makes their mouths sore, and the result is that they not only shun this locality, but appear to tell all the neighboring rats abont it, and eventually the house is entirely abandoned by them, notwithstanding that the neiglborhood may be teeming with them. 7. Corks, cut as thin as wafers, roasted or stewed in grease, and placed in their tracks ; or dried sponge in small pieces, fried or dipped in honey, with a little oil of rhodium, or bird-lime, laid in their haunts, will stick to their fur and cause their departure. If alive rat be caught, and well rubbed over with tar, and oil, and afterward let escape in the holes of others, they will disappear. 8. Cover a common barrel with stiff, stout papers, tying the edge around the barrel; place a board so that the rats may have an easy access to the top; sprinkle cheese parings or other ‘‘feed’’ for the rats on the paper for several days, until they begin to believe they have a right to the food. Then place a cover balanced near the centre and the rat will fall into the barrel. Have water in the bottom which covers a stone all but place enough for one rat. Then the second rat gets in the barrel, there will be a fight for a place on the stone, and this noise will call other rats to the barrel. Each time a rat gets on the head it will add one rat to the number inside. Mice. ‘These are disposed of in about the same manner as rats. Gather spearmint, peppermint, or any other kind of mint, and scatter it about their holes, and they will forsake the premises. PRESERVING AND SALTING MEAT. To Cure Hams. For each twelve pounds of ham use the following: 2 pounds Common Salt, 2 ounces Saltpetre, 4 pound Bay Salt, 2 pound Brown Sugar. Reduce the solids to the finest powder. Rub the hams well with it. 490 STANDARD RECEIPTS. Then place them in a deep pan, and add a wine-glassful of good vinegar. Turn the hams every day; for the first three or four days rub them well with the brine; after that time it will suffice to ladle it over the meat with a wooden or iron spoon. They should remain three weeks in the pickle. When taken from it wipe them well, put them in bags of brown paper and then smoke them with wood smoke for three weeks. Most grocers, dealers in hams, and others, whoare particular with their meat, usually take the precaution to case each one, after it is smoked, in can- vass, for the purpose of defending it from the attacks of the little fly, (dermestes lardarius), which by laying its eggs in it, soon fills it with its maggots. ‘This troublesome and expensive process may be altogether superseded by the use of pyroligneous acid. With a painter’s brush, dipped in the liquid, one man, in the course of a day, may effectually secure two hundred hams from all danger. Care should be taken to in- sinuate the liquid into all the cracks, etc., of the under surface. This method is especially adapted to the preservation of hams in hot climates. 2. Make the following pickle and let the meat lay in it six weeks: 23} pounds Sugar, 7 pounds Coarse Salt, 2 ounces Saltpetre, 4 gallons Water. Boil together and put to cool. The above is sufficient for one hundred pounds of meat. 3. Toa cask holding, say from twenty-five to thirty hams, after pack- ing them closely and sprinking them slightly with salt, let them lie thus for three days; then make a brine sufficient to cover them, by putting salt in clear water, making it strong enough to bear up a sound egg or potato. Then addone-half pound of saltpetre, and a gallon of molasses; let them lie in brine for five weeks. Then take them up and let them drain; then while damp, rub the flesh side and the end of the leg with finely pulverized black, red, or cayenne pepper; let it be as fine as dust, and dust every part of the flesh side, then hang them up and smoke. You may leave them hanging in the smoke house or other cool place where the rats cannot reach them as they are perfectly safe from all insects. To Keep Smoked Hams. Make sacks of coarse cotton cloth, large enough to hold one ham, and fill with chopped hay all around about two inches thick. The hay prevents the grease from coming in contact with the cloth and keeps all insects from the meat. Hang in STANDARD RECEIPTS. 491 the smokehouse, or other dry, cool, place, and they will keep a long time. To Pickle Mutton Hams for Drying. First take weak brine and put the hams into it for two days, then pour off and apply the fol- lowing, and then let it remain on from two to three weeks according to size: for each one hunared pounds, take salt six pounds; saltpetre, one ounce; saleratus, two ounces; molasses, one pint; water, six gallons; will cover these if closely packed. Corned Beef. 1. Cut up the beef, and weigh and bulk it up, sprink- ling a little salt over it, and let it lay ten or twelve hours, then pack it down in the barrel. To one hundred pounds of beef take one quart of salt, three and one half pints of molasses, one table-spoonful of saltpetre. Put all this into sufficient water to cover the beef; boil the pickle, and skim off all the scum, and when cold pour it over the beef, and weigh it down. Keep the beef covered with the pickle. 2. Rub each piece of beef very lightly with salt; let them lie singly on a tray or board for twenty-four hours, then wipe them very dry. Pack them closely in a tub, taking care that it is perfectly sweet and clean. Have the pickle ready, made thus: boil four gallons of soft water with ten pounds of coarse salt, four ounces of saltpetre, and two pounds of coarse brown sugar; let it boil fifteen minutes, and skim it while boiling very clean. When perfectly cold pour it on the beef, laying a weight on the top to keep the meat under the pickle. This quantity is sufficient for one hundred pounds of beef if closely packed. Dried Beef. The good qualities of dried beef as an article of food for the family are not fully appreciated. In point of excellence it is one of the nicest articles, when properly prepared, that we have in our store- room. It is also one of the most economical articles of food; quite a small gantity of dried beef, shaved very fine, and cooked with a nice gravy, will serve for meat for a family at a very small expense. It is so convenient to have; always ready; always acceptable. To people who live convenient to market, it is not of so much importance; but to those, who live at a distance from towns, dried beef is one of the neces- sary articles in our bill of fare. There are several methods of cooking it. Some prefer it cooked with a gravy of water, seasoned with butter, thickened with flour, and per- haps eggs broken in while cooking. Others cook it with crumbs of sausage, frying the sausage first, then adding the beef with water, and thickening with flour. It is also very good cooked with a little sweet 492 STANDARD RECEIPTS. milk and sweet cream, the gravy being thickened with flour; allow it to boil once; that is all the cooking it requires. A dish of dried beef, properly cooked, served with toast, baked potatoes, and boiled eggs, is a very nice provision for breakfast or a dinner prepared in haste. When too salt, it can be remedied by soaking, after cutting and before, and adding a little white sugar while cooking, to restore the sweetness lost by soaking. Sugar cured beef is much nicer than that cured with salt alone. To Cure Bacon. ‘The reputation of the Hampshire bacon is owing entirely to the care with which it is cured. The hogs, which are fatted on peas and barley meal, are kept fasting for twenty-four hours at least before they are killed; they are used as gently as possible in the act of killing, which is done by inserting a long-pointed knife into the main artery which comes from the heart. The hair is burned off with lighted straw, and the dirty surface of the skin scraped off. The carcass is hung up after the entrails have been removed, and the next day, when the meat has become quite cold, it is cut up into flitches. The spare- ribs are taken out, and the bloody veins carefully removed; the whole is then covered with salt, with a small quantity of saltpetre mixed with it. Sometimes a little brown sugar is added, which gives a pleasant sweet- ness to the bacon. ‘The flitches are laid on a low wooden table, which has a small raised border at the lower end. ‘The table slantsa little, so as to let the brine run off into a vessel placed under it, by a small open- ing in the border at the lower end. The flitches are turned up and salted every day; those which were up- permost are put under, and in three weeks they are ready to be hung up to dry. Smoking the bacon is no longer as comuion as it used to be, as simply drying in the salt is found sufficient to make it keep. Those who from early association like the flavor given by the smoke of wood, burn sawdust and shavings in a smothered fire for some time under the flitches. When they are quite dry they are placed on a board rack for the use of the family, or are packed with chaff into chests till they are sold. To Keep Butter Sweet. To every twenty pounds of butter take three pounds salt, one pound loaf sugar, one-quarter pound pulverized saltpetre; mix and put a layer of butter about eight inches thick; then sprinkle on a light covering alternately, until your cask is full. Pack in air-tight casks. Butter packed in this way will keep sweet for two or three years. STANDARD RECEIPTS. 493 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES KEPT OVER WINTER. To Keep Grapes. 1. They must not be tooripe. Take off the im- perfect grapes from the bunches. On the bottom of a keg put a layer of bran that has been well dried in an oven, or in the sun. Onthe bran put a layer of grapes, with bran between the bunches so that they may not bein contact. Proceed in the same way with alternate layers of grapes and bran, till the keg is full; then close the keg so that no air can enter. 2. In a box first lay a paper, then a layer of grapes, selecting the best bunches and removing all imperfect grapes, then another paper, then more grapes, and so until the box is full; then cover all with several folds of paper or cloth. Nail on the lid, and set in a cool room where it will not freeze. Use small boxes, so as not to disturb more than enough to use in a week or so. Give each bunch plenty of room so they will not crowd, and don’t use newspapers. Some seal the stem with sealing wax and wrap each bunch by itself, but it is not necessary to go to that trouble. The grapes should be looked to several times during the win- ter. Should any mould or decay, they should be removed and the good ones again repacked. 3. Cut a piece out of a ripe pumpkin or gourd, making an aperture large enough to admit the hand. Clean out the interior of seeds and place the ripe grapes inside, and replace the cover and press it in firmly. Keep the pumpkins in a cool place—and the grapes will be found to retain their freshness for a long time. A very careful selection must be made of the pumpkin, but the common field pumpkin, however, is well adapted for the purpose in question. To Keep Cabbage. Sink a barrel in the ground to within an inch or two of the top, cut off the heads and fill the barrel full, put on a board to keep out water, and that is all the covering that is needed. To Keep Apples. 1. Select the best of fruit, and carefully wrap each specimen separately in paper so that the air cannot pass through, and the time of keeping in a sound and eatable condition can be greatly prolonged. After covering each apple with paper, select a light wooden box and cover it on the inside, or outside, with paper either before or after putting in the fruit, as the case may be. Those persons who are desirous of preserving a small quantity of apples will be amply repaid for their trouble by trying the above experiment. The fruit should not be 494 STANDARD RECEIPTS. disturbed after packing until the box is opened at the time the fruit is to be eaten. 2. Sprinkle a layer of dry sawdust at the bottom of a box, and then place a layer of apples init, so that they will not touch each other. Upon these place a little layer of sawdust, and so on until the box is filled. The boxes, after being packed in this way, are to be placed on the wall in the cellar, up from the ground, where they will keep, perfectly retain- ing their freshness and flavor until brought out. 3. Apples for keeping should be laid out on a dry floor for three weeks. They then may be packed away in layezs, with dry straw be- tween them. Each apple should be rubbed with a dry cloth as it is put away. ‘They should be kept in a cool place, but should be sufficiently covered with straw to protect them from frost. They should be picked ona dry day. They also keep if packed in dry sand. 4. An excellent method for preserving apples through the winter is to put them in barrels or boxes, surrounding each apple with some dry mould or gypsum (plaster of Paris)—not the calcined used for casts, models, etc.,—and keep in a dry, cool outhouse. To Keep Celery. This may be kept in good condition during the winter in a cool, dry cellar, by having it set out in earth. When a small quantity only is wanted, take a box and stand the celery up in it, placing a little earth about the roots. The farmers who raise quantities of it eften keep it in their old hot-beds, standing up, and protecting it from frost. There is no vegetable more relished than this, and every person who has a garden should raise enough for his own use, if no more. To Keep Potatoes from Sprouting. To keep potatoes intended for the use of the table from sprouting until new potatoes grow, take boiling water, pour into a tub, turn in as many potatoes as the water will entirely cover, then pour off all the water, handle the potatoes care- fully, laying up in a dry place on boards, only one layer deep, and see if you do not have good potatoes the year round, without hard strings and watery ends caused by growing. Pears Kept Fresh. After they have been allowed to lay on the shelves in the fruit-room, and sweat, they should be wiped dry, and packed in boxes with dry sawdust enough to exclude the air from them. If they were packed in dry sand, they would keep equally as well and perhaps better; but the objection is that it is difficult to clean them from sand, and they eat gritty when so kept. STANDARD RECEIPTS. 495 TO PRESERVE OR PICKLE EGGS. To Keep Eggs Without Spoiling. For each twelve quarts of water put in one pint of fresh slaked lime, and one pint of common salt, mix well, fill a barrel about half full of this fluid, then with a dish, let the fresh eggs down into this, and they will settle right side up with care every time, and they will keep any reasonable length of time with- out any further care than to keep them .covered with the fluid. Eggs may be laid down in this way any time after June. 2. Dip them into a solution of gun-cotton, (collodion), so as to ex- clude the air from the pores of the shells, or the collodion may be applied with a brush. 3. Keep them at the temperature of 40° F. or less in a refrigerator. Specimens have been exhibited, which were fourteen months old, and still perfectly fresh and sweet. 4. Pack the eggs in a cask with the smaller end downward, and fill the cask with melted tallow. This method is practiced very extensively in Russia and in other parts of Europe, and is generally successful. 5. Apoly with a brush a solution of gum arabic to the shells, or im- merse the eggs therein; let them dry, and afterwards pack them in dry charcoal dust. This prevents their being affected by any alterations of temperature. 6. Eggs may be preserved by keeping them buried in salt, or dipping them during two or three minutes in boiling water. The white of the eggs then forms a kind of membrane, which envelops the interior, and defends it from the air. 7. Take of quick-lime one pound; salt, one pound; saltpetre, three ounces; water, one gallon. It is necessary that the solution be boiled ten or fifteen minutes, and when cold put in the eggs, small end down- ward, using a vessel lined with lead, and placing in a cold but dry cellar. 8. Get a good sweet wooden box, put about an inch of salt on the bottom; take sweet grease of any kind, lard or dr:ppings, rub the eggs all over with it and put them, the little end down, in the salt; then spread a layer of salt and then add more eggs. 9. Dissolve gum shellac in alcohol, when the mixture may be applied with a common paint brush. When dry, pack in bran, points down- ward. Eggs so preserved will keep a long tite. When about to be used, the varnish may be washed off. 496 STANDARD RECEIPTS. 10. A Parisian paper recommends the following method for the pre- servation of eggs: dissolve four ounces of beeswax in eight ounces of warm olive oil; in this put the tip of the finger and annoint the egg all around. ‘The oil will immediately be absorbed, and the shell and pores filled up by the wax. If kept in a cool place the eggs after two years, will be as good as if fresh laid. 11. An old sea captain says: ‘“The week before going tosea, ona four months’ voyage, I gathered in sixty dozens of eggs for cabin sea-stores, taking special pains to prove every egg of the lot a good one; besides, I bought them of my farmer friends, and know they were all fresh. Then I fixed them for keeping, by taking five or six dozens at a time in a bas- ket, and dipping them about five seconds in the cook’s ‘‘copper’’ of boiling water. After scalding, I passed the eggs through a bath, made by dissolving about five pounds of the cheapest brown sugar in a gallon of water, and laid them out on the galley floor to dry. ‘There I had my sixty dozens of eggs sugar-coated. I packed them in charcoal dust in- stead of salt; I tried salt ten years, and I don’t believe it preserves eggs aimite. The steward had strict orders to report every bad egg he should find. During the voyage he brought three, not absolutely spoiled, but a little old. All the others, or what was left of them, were as fresh when we came in as they were when I packed them away.’’ SOAP AND SOAP MAKING. How to Make Soap. Animal fat, such as tallow, is the sub- stance most at hand of all fatty matter for soap-making, although vegetable oils, such as castor, sunflower, olive and other oils, and also resin, are used in soap making occasionally, but tallow being more eas- ily obtainable, and generally at a lower cost than any of the oils above enumerated, is most extensively employed in the manufacture of domes- tic soap. For this purpose the grease after being freed of skin, by boiling straining, and remelting, is heated to the temperature of boiling water, and mixed on the fire with a hot solution of either soda, potash, or Both, in water called the lye; the whole is gradually transferred into an iro pot, larger by at least one third than the whole mixture, about one quart of the melted fat being first ladled into it, then as much or more of the hot lye, the mixture constantly stirred on the fire till a sort of creamy matter is formed, the ladling kept on alternately till all the fat STANDARD RECEIPTS. 497 and lye are mixed together; the stirring to be kept up till the mixture boils, some ten or fifteen minutes, according to the strength of the lye employed. Then transfer from the boiler into a form, a tight box, in which muslin has been placed overhanging the box, so that the soap may be afterward more easily drawn out of it for the purpose of drying, or it may be poured in acommon wash-tub, previously soaked in water to prevent adhesion to the tub, and there allowed to harden fora few days, from which it is put upon a table, to dry and be cut in bars for use, by means of a wire. To Preserve Soap Grease. Boil all the scraps, rinds, and bones in a weak lye, and the purer grease in clear water. Let the mixture cool, take off the cake of grease, and strain it. It is well to do this oc- casionally, as you save it; for when kept a long time, impure grease becomes offensive. You must be careful to dry off all the water before laying it away in your grease tub, if you wish it to keep sweet. To Purify Soap Grease. If the grease is very foul in smell, it should be put in a boiler with water, on the fire (about three times as much water as of the grease), and adda tea-spoonfu: of permanganate of potash to each ten pounds of grease, stirring well, and after the mix- ture has cooled a little it is strained through a cloth, and allowed to rest, when the cake of fat is taken out and put in a cool place, or in the pot in which it is to be remelted for trausformation into soap. The purpose of the permanganate of potash is to remove the rank odor of the grease, which otherwise would be found in the soap. Soft Soap. 1. Take one gallon of soft soap, to which add one gill of common salt, and boil an hour. When cold, separate the lye from the crude. Add to the crude two pounds of sal-soda, and boil in two gallons soft water till dissolved. If you wish it better, slice two pounds of common bar soap, and dissolve in the above. If the soft soap makes more than three pounds of crude, add in proportion to the sal-soda and water. 2. For one barrel take potash, eight pounds; melted and clarified fat, eight pounds. Crack the potash in small lumps, and put it into a large iron pot of three or four gallons capacity, with hot boiling water to nearly fill it. Heat the fat in another iron pot quite hot. Put three or four gallons of hot water in the barrel, previously cleaned and ready for use, and ladle in it alternately the hot fat and hot lye; stir the whole briskly for a while before more lye and fat are ladled in, and gradually 498 STANDARD RECEIPTS. add enough hot water to fill the barrel; stir again the whole, after each ladle of hot water, till the whole becomes a creamy mass, uniform in its appearance. Allow it to rest for three months in a temperate place or cellar. 3. Dissolve a quarter of a pound of lime in a gallon of cold water, then take off the clear; dissolve a half pound of sal-soda in a quart of water, and mix it with the clear lime-water; one pound of brown soap dissolved in a gallon of water, and then to be added to the clear liquor formed with the sal-soda and lime-water, and this forms the soap. This soft soap is excellent for boiling white linens. It removes all grease that is in them, because it contains an excess of caustic lye. About one quart of it is sufficient for boiling clothes in a ten gallon copper. A quantity of this may be made up for constant use. To Make Good Lye. Use hickory-wood ashes when possible, but those from beech, maple, or any kind of hard wood, except oak, will answer well. A hogshead, set upon an inclined platform, will make a good leach. Firstin the bottom of the leach pile some wood crosswise of each other, making it a foot high, over this put a piece of of old carpet or straw, put on a few inches of ashes, thena peck of lime, fill with ashes, moistened and tamp down well, making it firmest in the centre. Put on warm water. If the lye is not strong enough to float a potato or egg, put back on the ashes again and let run through till it will do so. Mrs. Gordon’s Soft Soap. Shave two and one-half pounds of good white soap and melt in two gallons of soft water, add one and one- fourth pounds of sal-soda and one-quarter pound powdered borax; when all is melted pour in keg or barrel with ten or twelve gallons warm water; stir in thoroughly two table-spoonfuls strong ammonia; two of al- cohol; and one of turpentine; stir occasionally till cold. This soap is ready for use as soon as mixed. ‘The borax, soda, turpentine or am- monia may be increased if desired. Hand-Made Sal-Soda Soap. It sometimes happens that caustic soda is not within reach, and yet sal-soda is to be had. ‘To transform this material into a suitable lye for soap-making is an easy process; dis- solve sal-soda, say three pounds, in two gallons of warm water; slack in a firkin three pounds of good lime; add to it the soda solution; stir the whole thoroughly with a stick, and add two gallons of boiling water; stir again, and let it settle. To make soap pour off the clear liquor into a clean iron boiler and STANDARD RECEIPTS, 499 place on the fire, and stir into it six pounds of clarified grease, and two ounces of powdered borax. Let it boil slowly till it gets thick and ropy (about ten minutes boiling), and pour it intoa tub or tight box, as stated above. Soap thus made 1s an excellent hard soap for family use; after drying a month or so in a dry-room, and cut into bars, it is fit for use. One Cent a Pound Soap. Soap for family use can be made very cheap and of excellent quality with little trouble by the use of a common article sold in all drug stores. This is lye put up in aconcentrated form in small iron boxes holding one pound. These boxes cost about twenty cents, and will make twenty pounds of soap. The plan of proceeding is merely to take a box of this substance, knock off the lid, and throw it into a gallon of boiling water. After standing ten hours the lye will be clear, and must be thrown into a wash-boiler with another gallon of boiling water; when the contents of the vessel boils, add slowly four pounds of any grease and stir well. When well mixed, the boiler should simmer slowly for four or six hours, and half an hour before taking off, another gallon of hot water may be added, together with half a tea-cupful of salt. The latter is not necessary, how- ever, and if too much is used, the soap is curdled or made short so that it breaks and wastes. When the soap is thought to be done, plunge a case knife in; if the mass drops clear and ropy and chills quickly, it is soap and will be firm and hard whencold. Haveready atub well wet on the bottom and sides; pour the soap in and let it set; in a few hours it ‘will be hard enough to cut out and be as white as snow. This process makes twenty-five pounds of soap; or, by the aid of grease, four pounds; lye, one pound; twenty-four pounds of water; (less four pounds driven off in boiling), are converted into excellent soap. Since the grease is saved from the family waste, the soap has only cost what the lye has come to, and as the loss by drying is only twenty per cent., twenty pounds of soap can be made for twenty cents. Country Soft or Hard Soap. In most parts of the country it is cheaper and much more convenient to make soap from the lye of leached ashes than from a boughten ‘‘‘concentrated lye.’’ Leach the ashes as suggested, then filla kettle two-thirds full of lye that will float a potato or egg. Put in the fat ina melted condition, a little at a time, and stir well. When the soap gets to the right consistency (which is found by testing) let the fire out and the soap cool. If hard soap is required add salt while hot by handfuls until of proper hardness. 2. A farmers wife give the following method of making soap: ‘‘Start 500 STANDARD RECEIPTS. the lye to boiling and then while boiling, if the lye is not strong enough to eat the feather of a quill, boil it down until it is. When it will just eat the feather, let the kettle be a little more than one-third full of lye, and put in grease, skins of the hogs, bacon rinds, meat-fryings, and the like, until the kettle is about two-thirds full. The kettle must not be full, for with the least bit too much fire, over the soap goes. It is bet- ter to put in a little less than the necessary amount of grease. Lye and grease combine in certain proportions; but pass the limit no amount of boiling will take up an excess of grease. It will remain on top hot or cold, and it will be very troublesome; whereas a little too much lye will sink to the bottom when the soap comes. If the proportions are good, a little fire only is required to keep it boiling, and in a few hours it is done. Then take a bucket of weak lye and let it boil up with the soap once. This will not disturb the already made soap, but will wash the dirt out that was in the grease, and with it settle to the bottom. When the soap is cold it can be cut out in cakes.’’ A small quantity of salt will help harden. Fluid Soap. Sweet oil seven parts; caustic potash, one part; rose water, sufficient quantity to reduce it to a proper state. Rub the oil, alkali and a few spoonfuls of the water together in a hot mortar until united, then add the remainder of the water as required. Wash-Boiler Soap. ‘Take one pound of sal-soda, one pound of yellow bar soap, and five quarts of water. Cut the soap in thin slices, and boil together two hours; strain, and it will be fit for use. Put the clothes to soak the night before you wash, and to every pail of water in which you boil them, add a pound of soap. They will need no rubbing; merely rinse them out, and they will be perfectly clean and white. White Hard Soap. To fifteen pounds of lard, or suet, made boil- ing hot, add slowly six gallons of hot lye, or solution of potash, that will bear up an egg high enough to leave a piece big as a shilling, bare. Take out a little and cool it. If no grease comes to the top it is done. If any grease appears, add lye, and _ boil till no grease rises. Add three quarts of fine salt, and boil up again. If this does not harden well on cooling, add more salt. If it is to be perfumed, melt it next day, add the perfume and run it in moulds, or cut in cakes. Hard Soap. 1. Take six pounds of sal-soda, six pounds grease. and three pounds lime. ‘Thoroughly mix the soda and lime in four gal- lons of water, pour off from the sediment, put in the grease and boil ¢wenty minutes; pour off and before entirely cold cut in bars. STANDARD RECEIPTS. 501 2. Glauber salts has been used to harden soap, which made from in- ferior fats, would otherwise be too soft. ‘This substance (inelted on a shovel or otherwise, ) added to the soap in the proportion of one pound of the salt to twenty pounds or the soap, is said to remedy the defect, and to make a hard and sound soap out of what would otherwise be too soft for economical use. 3. HARD SOAP WITH LARD. Sal-soda and lard, of each six pounds; stone lime three pounds; soft water, four gallons; dissolve the lime and soda in the water, by boiling, stirring, settling and pouring off; then return to the kettle (brass or copper) and add the lard and boil until it becomes soap; then pour into a dish or moulds, and when cold, cut it into bars and let it dry. 4. HARD SOAP FROM SOFT. ‘Take seven pounds good soft soap; four pounds sal-soda; two ounces borax; one ounce hartshorn; one-half pound resin, to be dissolved in twenty-two quarts of water, and boiled about twenty minutes. Whale Oil Soap. For the destruction of insects: render common tye castic, by boiling it at full strength on quick-lime; then take the lye and boil it with as much whale oil foot as it will change to soap; pour off into moulds, and, when cold, it is tolerably hard. Whale oil foot is the sediment produced in refining whale oil. How to Test Soap. ‘The value of boiled sodps of course depends greatly on the quality of the materials used. This accounts for the dif- ference in price and quality. The purest materials, such as clean tallow or pure oils, thoroughly saponified, yield the most valuable soaps, cost- ing more per pound, but they are cheaper in the end. A good soap isa perfectly neutral compound, and will in no case injure the most delicate fabrics. ‘The simplest method of testing soap is by tasting. If it is sharp and biting on the tongue, there is an