ot EGE fe pied e ier Es iamrint Pin a BS I i r one = | niituia Bi immerses i oe i a Hee Be catantanint elt entagin ; yy RT RT ect a ; revit b brea Hy Bats seers Pitt ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY Cornell University Gift of Thomas Bass From Home Bakings, by Edna Evans San Francisco, 1912. CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY THE FRENCH CHEF © IN ‘ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES THE FRENCH CHEF . IN PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES A BOOK OF RECIPES ZZ By XAVIER RASKIN 1922 RAND MSNALLY & COMPANY CHICAGO . 1” Copyright, 1922, By Xavier RASKIN ALL RicHTS RESERVED MANN TX Ranp MCNAtty Press, CuiIcaco Mave In U.S. A. ~ Dedicated to Mrs. ELLIOTT McALLISTER In Appreciation of Her Kind and Helpful Encouragement ~ PREFACE (Coe ese ig an art, the resulting product of cen- turies of experience. The French cooks who have migrated to the United States, as well as cooks from other parts of the world, have brought to this country the experiences that they have acquired at home, and their best recipes have become so familiar to the Ameri- can people, that today, combined with-American recipes, they form the ordinary menu of clubs, hotels, and private families. . Most of these recipes have retained their foreign names, mainly due to the fact that it is impossible to find correct translations for them. 4 In this book the author has aimed to render his work complete by giving, besides the French formulas and French methods of cooking, all recipes as they were required in the American private families and clubs where he has worked. Some of these recipes are plain and inexpensive while others are elaborate, and others are expensive but not extravagant, intended for use when economy is not a necessity or not to be considered, as, for instance, for a Ceremonial Luncheon or Formal Dinner Menu. All may be utilized by the professional as well as the inexperienced cook, although to-the novice a study of the fundamental articles, ‘‘Methods of Cook- ing,’’ etc., is recommended. Care has been taken to explain each recipe clearly and the rules that. appertain to them. Often suggestions are made as to how to substitute materials when articles called for are not on hand, and the practical, economical use of left-overs is treated at length. This book is intended for private families and there Sow are very few recipes in it which the average housekeeper | will not find within her means and experience. For the past twenty years I have worked in American homes, and I have selected for this book largely the recipes which have been most called for by the families I have served. + XAVIER-RASKIN. CONTENTS PAGE CHAPTER I. GENERAL INFORMATION. . 1 Necessity oF Carerut, Exact MrEasuREMENTS— EFFICIENCY AND EconoMY—VEGETABLES A Nec- ESSARY Part or Our Dirr—Utiuizine Rem- NANTS OF VEGETABLES—DersirABLE INFORMA- TION ABOUT FisH—THE PRESERVATION OF Foop —Utiizine Lert-overs aNp TRIMMINGS OF Foop—Puanning Menus with REFERENCE TO Foop VauuEs—:ImMportant ITEMS ABOUT THE Mrenu—SvuirasLeE MrtuHops or CooKERY FOR Dirrerent Curs or Mrat—UNCULASSIFIED MetHops or Cookine Mzats. CHAPTER II. MEAT, FISH, AND WEGETA- BLE SAUCES, AND ROUX... . 40 CHAPTER III. SOUPS. ...... . 5 CHAPTER IV. VEGETABLES ... . . 107 GeneraAL Directions—CooKING OF VEGETABLES —Recipes ror Porators—Sweet Porators— GREEN PEas—Carrots—Brans— ASPARAGUS — CAULIFLOWER — ARTICHOKES — CaBBAGE— Brussets Sprouts—CrLery—Brrets— VEGsE- TABLE SOUFFLE AND Rings—Onions— OystTER Pitant—Parsnips—LeEEK Tips— CHESTNUTS — CUCUMBERS — TOMATOES — GREEN - PEPPERS — Musurooms—Eeg Puant—Cookep Lerruce AND ENpive— Corn—Squasa. ix x CONTENTS (ContINvED) PAGE CHAPTER V. RICE, MACARONI, SPA- GHETTI, NOODLES AND RAVIOLI. . 171 CHAPTER VI. EGGS AND OMELETS . . 179 CHAPTER VII. HORS D’HUVRES . . . 197 CHAPTER VIII. SALADS . ... . . 204 CHAPTER IX. COLD ENTREES . . . . 235 Mo.ipep Aspics, JELLIED Muats, CHAUDFRODS, MOoussEs, ETC. CHAPTER X. TIMBALES, MOUSSES, FORCE- MEATS, QUENELLES, ETC. . . . . 258 CHAPTER XI. FISH, LOBSTERS, CRABS, OYSTERS, CLAMS AND MUSSELS, TER- RAPIN AND FROGS’ LEGS, SALTED FISH, ETC. .. . i oa « « « 260 CHAPTER XII. HOT ages - . . . B14 SWEETBREADS—CaLves’ Brains, ETc.—KIDNEYS —Caur’s Liver—Catr’s Heart, etc.— TRIPE —Oxtam, ETc.—TonaUE—TroTTers (Mutton Fret) anp Pies’ Frmt—Caur’s Heap. CHAPTER XIII. HOT ENTREES AND CHEESE DISHES .... . . . 840 CHAPTER XIV. STEAKS, FILLETS, AND SPECIAL BEEF DISHES... . 346 BrEerstEaK—FiinLtet Mignon—Mock TENDERLOIN AND HamBure SteaK—Brer a LA Mope—Pot Roasts—Merat Loar—Cornep Brer—Berzr Stews—Lert-Over Beer. CHAPTER XV. ROASTED MEATS... . 365 GENERAL InsTRucTIONS—GrRavy FoR Roasts— Brer—Murron—Lamp—Vraut— Porx.- CONTENTS (ContTINUED) xi PAGE CHAPTER XVI. MUTTON AND LAMB .. . 374 CHAPTER XVII. VEAL ....... 387 CHAPTER XVIII. PORK ..... . . 400 CHAPTER XIX. POULTRY AND GAME. . 405 CHICKEN — TURKEY — PHEASANTS — GEESE — Ducks—Wip Ducxs—Prarmir CHICKEN— QuaiL— Partrivgs — SNIPE — VENISON— Hare AND Raspits—PiIGEONS AND SQuABS. CHAPTER XX.. BATTERS . .. . . . 452 CHAPTER XXI. HOT DESSERTS. . . . 454 STEAMED Puppincs—FRirrers—SovurFuLs— Bakep Puppinas—Frurr Puppinas—Friep Puppines—F riep Batter Mixturres—Puppine Sauces. CHAPTER XXII. COLD DESSERTS .... 475 Custarps— Tapioca, Ricz, anp Saco Puppineas— Cream Fians anp Bianc-Manez— WHIPPED Cream Desserts—_Fruir Wuies—FRrurir Com- POTES. _ CHAPTER XXIII. GELATINE DESSERTS AND BAVARIAN CREAMS AND CHAR- LOTTE RUSSE ..... . . . 487 : ! CHAPTER XXIV. ICE CREAMS, ICES, AND . FROZEN DESSERTS... . . . 500 How to Freeze Dersserts—Sauces For Ice Creams-—Ick Creams—DrcorativeE Frozen DesserTts—Parralts—Movusse and Miscenia- NEous Frozen Desserts—Fruir or Water Iczes——SHERBETS OR SORBETS. xii CHAPTER XXV. PASTRY CONTENTS (ContTINUED) GENERAL RuLES aBouT Pastry aND Piz: DoucH— How to Wash AND PREPARE BuTtTer FoR USE IN, ' CHAPTER XXVI. CAKES Pastry—How to Make Pie anp HINTS aBouT Pir Pastry—PReEpPaRATION OF Mince Mzat. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS— LIGHTENING F'LouR Mrx- TURES—BakING PowpEr SUBSTITUTES AND Bak- Ing Sopa Mixtures—CrEAM AS A SUBSTITUTE ror Butrer—How To Fiavor with Economy —To Prepare THE Pan For Cake—To Brat Eoee-WHITES TO A Stirr- Dry Frota—Mrxine SPONGE AND Savoy Caxe—Mrxine Butter CaKke—OvEN Hrat—Baxine THE CaKE— CakE RECIPES. CHAPTER XXVII. CAKE FROSTINGS AND FILLINGS—INEXPENSIVE CAKES AND GINGER BREADS CHAPTER XXVIII. CAKES RAISED BY YEAST CHAPTER XXIX. FANCY FRENCH CAKES, CHAPTER XXX. COOKIES MERINGUE, AND PETITS-FOURS CHAPTER XXXI. BREAD, ROLLS, MUF- FINS, BISCUITS, ETC. GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT BrEap Making— YEAST AND SPONGE—PREPARATION OF Breap Dovucu—Bakineé oF BREAD—RECIPES FOR Breap —Hints azout Rotts— Recipes ror Buns AND Rotits—Correr Caxes—Doveunuts AND CRUL- LERS— Pop-OVERs, Gems, AND Murrins—Gen- PAGE . 515 . 529 . 551 . 564 . 568 . 584 / . 587 CONTENTS (ContinuzD) xiii 2 PAGE ERAL INSTRUCTIONS REGARDING GRIDDLE CAKES —Recires ror Grippp—E CakEs—WarFFrLes— Biscurr Maxrine—Recirpes For Biscuir anp SHORTCAKE. CHAPTER XXXII. CONFECTIONS . . . 614 Tests or THE Bomine Sugar, AND DEGREES OF Heat—Bointine Sugar FoR ConFECTIONS— Fonpant— Botting Sugar To THE ‘CRACK’? oR ‘CRACKLING’? Pornt—Spinnine Sugar AND ‘ SHapine Eorets ror GaRNIsHiInG Icr Cream, Cakes, Nouaats, ETC.— REcIPES For Noucats— CarRaMELS—PinocHE, Funes, rtc.— Dippine IN CHOCOLATE AND IN Fonpant—Mo.asses Canby, Buttercups, Bar Canpy, AND PRa- LINES, ETC._-CANDIED FRuITs anD Fruits Con- Fits—Sua@ar SyRUPS AND USE OF THE Syrup _HYDROMETER. CHAPTER XXXIII. FRUITS AND FRUIT JUICES . 2... ww wee. 688 _ PREPARATION OF FRUITS FOR THE TABLE, AND SERV- -*. ine—Fruir Juices anp THe Uses—Max- ING oF FRuIT JUICES FOR BEVERAGES— BorTLine AND SreRILizine Fruit JuiceS—Grape Juice. | CHAPTER XXXIV. FRUIT JELLIES, MAR- MALADES AND JAMS ... . . . 637 QUALIFICATIONS oF FRUITS FOR J ELLY— PREPARA- TION AND CooKING oF FRuIT—THE JELLY Bac AND SuPPORT-—— EXTRACTION OF JUICE— TESTING Fruit Juick For AcID AND PECTIN, AND ADDING ‘THE SuGAR— COOKING THE JUICE AND SugarR— TEST FOR JELLYING Point—SKIMMING— FILL- ING THE. TUMBLERS AND CooLINc—RECIPES FOR JELLIES— MARMALADES. xiv CONTENTS (ContTINUED) PAGE CHAPTER XXXV. CANNING .. . . . 648 CANNING OF VEGETABLES—CANNING VEGETABLES BY THE CotD Pack MerHop—BuaNncHING VEGE- TABLES FOR CANNING AND THE ‘‘Cou~p Drip’’— PackING IN JARS—ONE-Day STERILIZATION OR PROCESSING— INTERMITTENT STERILIZATION, OR Turee-Day Process—Reciprs FoR CANNED VEGETABLES— CANNING OF FRuIT—-THE OPEN KettLeE MetHop—Grapina or Syrups—CoLp Pack MetHop For CanninG FRvit. CHAPTER XXXVI. PRESERVATION OF ' VEGETABLES WITH OR WITHOUT FERMENTATION . *. . . . .) . 658 THe Dry Sat MetHop— PRESERVATION OF VEGE- TABLES IN STRONG BRINE WITHOUT FERMENTA- TION—-PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES BY FER- MENTATION IN BRINE. CHAPTER XXXVII. PICKLES AND REL- ~ ISHES bdim was oat Gy . . 661 PicktiInc—Recipes ror PickLED VEGETABLES— Recipes FoR PIcKLED FRuIts. CHAPTER XXXVIII. MISCELLANEOUS .. 669 PRESERVATION OF BurTER—PRESERVING EqGas‘ IN ‘“Watrrer Guass’’—Preservinae Eeas in Lime AND SaLT—ReEcirPes ror Cooking CEREALS— ReciPes For Corres, TEA, AND Cocoa— REcIPES For Fruit BEVERAGES. “To be a good cook means the knowledge of all fruits, herbs, balms and spices, and of all that is ‘healing and meet in fields and groves, savory in meat. It means carefulness, inventiveness, watchfulness, willingness, readiness of appliance. It means the economy of your greatgrand- mother and the science of modern chemists; it means much tasting and no wasting; it means English thoroughness, French art and Arabian hospitality; it means in fine that you are to be perfectly and always ladies and you are to see that everybody has something nice to eat.” — Ruskin. THE FRENCH CHEF IN PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES CHAPTER I GENERAL INFORMATION Necessity oF CareFuL, Exact MrasureMEents— EFri- CIENCY AND EconoMy—VEGETABLES A: NECESSARY Part or Our Diet—Utimizing REMNANTS OF VEGE- TABLES— DESIRABLE INFORMATION ABOUT FisH— Tue PRESERVATION OF Foop—Utiizing LEFT-OVERS - AND TRIMMINGS oF Foop—PuanNING MENUS WITH REFERENCE TO Foop VaLuES—ImportTant ITEMS ABOUT THE Menu—SvurraBLe MerHops of CooKERY FoR DirrereNt Curs” oF Mrat— UNCLASSIFIED MeETHODS OF Cooxine Mzats. = ~ Sy UGCESS in cooking largely depends on a knowledge and understanding of certain fixed and accepted rules. It is important, therefore, to carefully note the following instructions on ‘‘mixing,’’ ‘‘methods,’’ ‘‘planning,’’ ete. Many failures in cookery, on following a given formula, are due to incorrect measurement of the -different in- gredients, and also to lack of knowledge as to regulating the heat of the oven. Necessity of Carefyl, Exact Measurements Exact measurements are necessary to success in cook- ing, as is exactitude in all other branches of the art; when a recipe calls for one cup-of liquid or of dry in- -gredients it does not mean any cup which may happen to be at hand, but a standard measuring cup, which holds the equal of half a pint or 16 tablespoonfuls of liquid. These standard cups are marked off into thirds, quarters, and halves. They can be purchased for a few 1 2 THE FRENCH CHEF IN t & cents each, and are obtainable in metal or glass, the glass being preferable. Two cups should be kept always on hand, one to be used for measuring liquids, the other for measuring dry ingredients. To measure a cup of liquid or solid material, fill the cup level to top mark line. Shortening packed into a cup, level measurement, equals in weight about 8 ounces. To top mark line of measuring cup it equals about 75% ounces. To avoid waste, it is best to weigh butter, crisco, lard, ete. TABLE OF COMPARATIVE WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 2 cups granulated sugar . = 1 pound 2% cups powdered sugar = 1 pound 10 eggs, broken are considered . = 1 pound 2 cups water, milk or vinegar = 1 pound 1 cup white bread flour . = 4ounces 1 cup fine cornmeal = 4 ounces 1 cup coarse cornmeal = 5ounces 1 cup cornstarch . = 6 ounces 1 cup potato flour = 6 ounces 1 cup farina = 6 ounces 1 cup rice flour = 5 ounces 1 cup rolled oats = 38 ounces 1 cup broken eggs . . = 5 eggs leup yolks ofeggs . . . . = 12 yolks l cup whites of eggs. . . . = 8 whites’ Butter the ‘‘size of an egg’’ means 114 ountes. One cupful of liquid sweetening, such as thick syrup, is considered the equal of 1 cup of sugar plus 14 cup of water. In measuring by teaspoon, the standard size to use is one which holds 60 drops. The spoon may be tested with an ordinary dropper and cold water. To measure a. spoonful of dry ingredients, use the back of a table knife to level contents of spoon to exact evenness with edge. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 3 Efficiency and Economy First of all, the marketing must be done with care and judgment. Purchase supplies in or near the height of the season, as fruits, vegetables and eggs are best when most abundant; and at this time also they are, through their abundance, cheaper in each outlay. Economy by no means lies in the purchasing of cheap, inferior products, but it does mean thoughtful buying. Menus, also, must be planned in such manner ‘ as to utilize in the day’s meals, alone or in combination, such remnants as may be on hand, as well as perishable foods which may be lost if not cooked immediately. Keep data as to the amount of food required for your family for previous meals, and gauge your -buying accordingly, that you may learn as closely as possible the exact requirements for keeping your family well and vigorous. ‘Buy only the amount of meat, fish and vege- tables required, and vary the diet as much as possible. As efficiency is gauged by its results, give to the planning of your menu careful thought as to desirable variety. Give consideration to all food remnants on hand, then buy whatever needed to complete an appetiz- ing nourishing meal. Finally, select the cooking method best suited to each article; and if you have managed to use successfully the remnants of meat, vegetables and cereals, and have produced a good and satisfying meal, you may claim efficiency. For example, suppose that we have on hand beef, mutton, veal, or pork roast which has left the table, in unsightly form, but which still has much food value, how shall we remodel it into attractive, appetizing dishes? “Slice such portions of the meat as can be sliced neatly; arrange slices in a shallow dish and cover with a boiling hot, slightly thickened sauce made of the meat’s own gravy; cover and let stand in a hot place till the meat is thoroughly warmed through. It must on no account be permitted to -boil, as boiling would. toughen the meat. Serve with gravy-sauce over meat and a border of rice, potatoes, or vegetables, or, with hot stew dumplings. As a substitute for the meat gravy in making the 4 THE FRENCH CHEF IN sauce, a White Sauce, or any sauce of a flavor harmoniz- ing with the special meat used, may be served over the meat. Such portions of the meat as can not be sliced may be cut into dice and after removing tough parts, fat and small bones warmed in a White Sauce, or they may be cut into inch-square cubes and used to make a stew or a meat pie. All remnants of meat may, by cutting into dice or by forcing through a meat cutter, be utilized in eroquettes, timbales, or as dressing on toast if added to White Sauce. , . Many of the best entrées are made of odds and ends, . and recipes for these are given further on. Methods of Cooking Another attribute of efficiency is a thorough under- standing of the best methods of cooking each and every kind and cut of meat, fish or fowl, as well as the proper selection and cooking of the vegetables accompanying them. ss We have shown that the housewife’s first considera- tion must be to buy efficiently, at minimum cost, the exact amounts of foods required by her family. She must consider the habits and requirements of her par- ticular family, remembering that the manual laborer and the athlete require larger proportions of meat in their ration balance than do the student, the clerk or others of sedentary habits. Out-of-door workers demand much meat. The laborer demands the rich red meats and salmon. The delicate and the sedentary require more of the white meats, birds and the delicate fish. The manual laborer’requires meat three times daily, while one daily meal of meat is about all that the sedentary person can assimilate without ultimate injury. Elderly persons and children should use meat sparingly. It is agreed that the meat-eating peoples are the most energetic and vigorous, and of larger and more robust frame. This is because meat supplies tissue and- muscle material, as well as fat and energy. - As a certain amount only of food elements can be assimilated by the digestive system, it is necessary to balance the meat ration with a suitably selected portion PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 5 ' of properly cooked vegetables; carefully avoiding a surplus supply of the protein of meats to the elimination of the salts and minerals supplied by vegetables. The serving of a meal in an attractive, appetizing manner is a by no means small matter in ‘the part of economy. That which is served in-such manner as to please the eye, tends to awaken the appetite and enliven the action of the digestive juices, and thus the carefully cooked food is insured its ultimate goal, which is to build-up body ‘and health by proper assimilation. Judgment. must be used where economy is called into question, in the chodsing between a cheap or a high priced article of food. In some cases it is truer ‘economy to buy the higher priced, because it is a first- class product against an inferior one. Suppose, for instance, you desire to make a fine chicken fricassee, and you are in doubt as to which to buy, a-large, old fowl, or a young chicken, at about the same outlay of money for each. The old fowl will require three to four hours’ boiling, which will melt a half- pound of fat from the original weight, this fat mingling ’ with the boiling. liquor, and there will be left big bones, thick fat skin, and very little meat of a real chicken flavor. The young chicken will have small bones, thin skin, and delicate tender meat, which will give to the finished product justification for its reputation as one of the finest of French entrées. | It is true economy, also, to buy the choice ham rather than the over-salted, poorly eured ‘‘cheap’’? ham. The ‘loss in large portion of the lean meat through salt- hardened fibres, entirely offsets the higher first cost of the better ham, whose trimmings, shank bones, and often even the rind, may be appetizingly utilized. Experience with the two ‘will soon decide you in favor of the higher grade ham. To buy old, poorly kept eges is not only uneconomical, but absolutely wasteful. The yolks will not separate readily from the whites, and the result will be a poorly finished product, whether a cake, pudding or quick bread. Nearly all good recipes call for separated yolks and whites. = ts 6 THE FRENCH CHEF IN - Fruit cakes and other rich cakes that are desirable to keep on hand should be made in quantity at the time of year when eggs are plentiful and cheapest. This is also the season for making such entrées as call for eggs. As a food, eggs are rich in albumin, phosphorus and lime, and an oily fat which is readily assimilated if taken raw. Because they are lacking in starch, they are served with starchy foods, such as toast, or in rice, farina or sago puddings, thus giving a light but complete diet. Ten eges are said to equal, in food value, one pound of beefsteak. ' Vegetables Are a Necessary Part of Our Diet Vegetables supply the mineral salts conducive to health, the carbohydrates largely, and some of them the protein; but chiefly they are required to supply bulk to a meal that otherwise would be too highly concen- trated. A varied diet of vegetables is often undervalued, because of ignorance as to their food and health values. When vegetables are boiled they should be plunged into rapidly boiling water and kept boiling until done and removed from the fire. If steamed, the same rule holds good; the water under the’steamer must be boiling and the steam at its height when the vegetables are placed in it, and then closely covered. The simplest way of preparing “vegetables i is generally accepted as the best, as they combine so readily with foods containing the elements which they lack. Spinach is served often with melted butter and poached eggs. Asparagus au gratim is the combination of asparagus and cheese, served with a White Sauce. Beans, when baked, are supplied with fat in the form of butter or pork. Any of these combinations form a perfect meal without the addition of meat; the proteins being pro- vided by. the eggs or CHER, and the fats by thé butter, sauce or pork. Utilizing Left-Over Vegetables A remnant of cauliflower, asparagus, or celery, etc., that has been served with a White Sauce can be rubbed s PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 7 é through a sieve and: made the basis of a cream soup; or, adding grated cheese can be baked au gratin. Left- over green peas make a pleasing addition to soup or stew; or, if you have sufficient quantity, will make a green-pea soup. Other remnant vegetables may be sauted in butter; some may be used for garnishing, purées, or borders, or reheated in a White Sauce. Occasionally they may be made into timbales of jellied salad, or a Russian salad. Chilled, they may be served on crisp lettuce leaves, with a French Dressing. Trimmings, parts or sections of vegetables such as tomatoes, asparagus, leeks, celery, and peppers, are often used for decoration or to make bouquet. As nearly all are blanched first, the opportunity of- using left-over blanched vegetables is unlimited. Remnants of boiled or baked potatoes can be utilized to make hash, using with them remnants of boiled beef, corned beef, etc.; they may be sliced or minced’ and sauted in melted butter ; or they may be cubed or sliced and made into a salad. Left-over mashed potatoes make potato borders; they can be used as the basis of a potato chocolate cake; or they can be cooked au gratin. ; Desirable Information about Fish A fresh fish is known by the firmness of its flesh and the brightness of its eyes and gills. Fish should be cooked at once to retain the food value and fine flavor, which are lost by long keeping. It is not desirable to keep fish in the refrigerator, owing to the strong odor, but if necessary to do so, keep it closely covered. Fish has less food value and less stimulating power than the flesh of animals or birds, but, with the exception of salmon, mackeral and eels, it is of easier digestibility. Cured and salted fish are richer in protein than are fresh fish of the same varieties; salted cod and mackerel contain 22 per cent proteins. In comparing high-priced fresh fish, or cured fish, such as Finnan Haddie or black cod, with the better cuts of meat, the preference in food value is with the meat; but there are fish which compare favorably with % 8 THE FRENCH CHEF IN the cheaper cuts of meat, only they are so cheap and common that people do not like to buy them. Recipes will be found in this book which will render the finished article acceptable to the most fastidious, and cause them to ask why these common fish are not more often found on our menus. Their use would be a long step toward the reduction of the ‘‘high cost of living,’’ and introduce a beneficial change and variety in the daily diet. Remnants of fish may be utilized in ‘endless and appetizing ways, such as in mousse, fish-balls, croquettes, ete., or, reheated in cream. The Preservation of Food Remove meat from the wrapping paper as soon as it comes from the market, then carefully wipe it with a clean cloth. =" Keep meat hanging, if possible; or on a plate in the refrigerator; or in any cool dry place free from flies. Any remnants of uncooked meat which may spoil if kept longer should be cooked at once either alone or in combination, for the next meal; or it may be given - a few seconds’ blanching by immersing in rapidly boiling water or soup stock, as the case may require. A piece of boiled meat or fowl, even a piece of roast, may-be allowed to stand one minute in stock or water sufficiently deep to cover the meat, the liquor to be rapidly boiling. Stewed meat may be reheated to the boiling point in its own gravy, while steaks or chops may be given half a minute’s broiling on each side. They’ may be rebroiled thoroughly, or broiled to be eaten cold, or a stew may be made of them, to be reheated as wanted. When meat is merely surface tainted, scrape the surface with a dull knife, then rub with cooking oil. All beef, pork and chicken fat should be rendered and used in frying or shortening. Drippings of roast meats should be used as savory dripping; or they may be clarified and used as above. Clarified chicken fat may be used to fry eggs, or, in combination with flour, to thicken gravy or this reserved fat may be utilized with flour, to thicken sauces or soups which call for chicken stock, or nearly any sauce to be served with PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 9 s chicken. Reserve goose fat and dripping to. cook with vegetables as in sauteing, or reheating. - Mutton fat, rendered and added to clarified mutton drippings, may be: used later with other clarified fats, in the making of soap. (See ‘‘Drippings.’’) Soup, soupstock, sauces or roast gravy in danger of spoiling should be given a few seconds’ boiling, when it will keep from one to three days longer, according to ‘temperature. The same is true of fruit sauces, preserves, ete. . Pickled beets, prepared for salad, may be reboiled in their own liquor. - “Tf, having on hand a surplus of vegetables, such as cauliflower, peas, string beans, artichokes, or sweet potatoes, that are liable to decay, pare and place in cold water until freshened and crisp; then drain and blanch until tender, when they must be drained. The same blanched vegetables may be renewed by placing them about a minute in boiling water, which insures their keeping several days. If particles of mould are appearing on jelly or glaze, carefully remove them, and bring the jelly or glaze to the boiling point, then cool and set aside. Milk turned sour, may be allowed to stand until it wheys; then turn it into a cheese-cloth or other thin bag and hang up to drain until dry, when it is ready to use as cottage cheese. : Sour milk and cream should never be wasted, as they may be used as a substitute for fresh milk in flour mixtures by the addition of a level teaspoonful of soda to each pint of sour milk. Sour cream, if of sufficient quantity, may be placed in a small fruit jar and shaken to butter, or, utilized to make a salad dressing. Butter may be kept several weeks by placing it in brine that will float an egg. ‘Water in which rice or macaroni has been boiled should not be wasted, but saved to use as an addition to potato, leek or vegetable soups. Remnants of cereals, spaghetti or macaroni must not be permitted to'go to waste; as each portion may be 10 THE FRENCH CHEF IN economically utilized in some of the many recipes to follow. Utilizing Left-Overs and Trimmings of Food Use the meat remnants, bones and frame of fowls as an addition to soup stock ; or make of them a White Stock which you may find a rich improvement for various entrées, soups or sauces. This also makes a desirable addition to the Espagnole Sauce stock. All stocks should be thoroughly freed from grease, and the skimmed grease should be set aside in a bowl over night, and then utilized as directed in the paragraphs on ‘‘Drippings’’ and “*Clarifying.’’ All bits and pieces of beef and pork fat trimmed from roasts should be rendered and used to make shorten- ing. Broken pieces of bread should be carefully saved and used in stuffings, where bread crumbs are needed, or to make croutons. Reserve the best slices for the making of croutons, fried sliced garnishing croutons, and French toast. The smaller bread scraps can be used to make crumbs. Crumbs of stale cake should be used to bread sweet entrées, such as Fried Cream or Rice Croquettes, ete. Macaroon crumbs are sometimes used to .sprinkle over a cake frosting or used for a pudding. Slices of light cakes, added to a custard mixture pleasingly flavored, make a very nice pudding. TO MAKE CRUMBS: Gather the bread scraps and place them in a tin in the warming oven, or on the shelf back of the range, and allow them to stand covered until perfectly dry throughout; then run them through the meat chopper and sift. Roll the coarse crumbs and sift again. Crumbs may be kept dry and ready for use by placing in covered fruit jars. ° When a delicate golden color is desired for the dish to be served, it is advisable to use fresh crumbs grated from stale bread. . PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES ii Keep all scraps and remnants of bread in clean oe cans or Jars. Drying in a cool oven will prevent mold. TRIMMINGS OF HAM OR BACON: Ham or bacon trimmings should be utilized in the making of melets; or, minced or cubed, with the fat and coarse parts removed, may be served in a White Sauce. They may also be used in such sauces as call for the flavor of these meats. Fat left over from frying ham or bacon should be kept in a receptacle by itself, and used to fry liver, potatoes, or other dishes where the flavor of these meats is in order. Planning Menus with Reference to Food Values The planning of the menu is equal in importance to the preparation of the foods which compose it, and it will call for a little study and effort on the part of the housewife to accomplish successfully this part of her duty. Through this thought and planning, however, she will be enabled to supply her family’s demand for proper appetizing combinations of food, judiciously selected to the end that vigor and health a be maintained at a minimum of cost. Without intruding upon stints ground, we will touch lightly on a few points which the scientists have tried to explain to the general public; that is, the principal component parts of foods- with their proper combinations and assimilative qualities. Foods comprise five principal elements, water, fat, protein, carbohydrates, and mineral salts. Starch and sugar are included in the carbohydrates. Each’ menu should include all of these principles in greater or less degree, according to the individual’s occupation and age and, the climate in which he lives. All food articles contain several of these elements in combination, but no food contains them all, hénce the necessity ‘of variety. ' The mineral salts are found most generously in vege- tables and are called for in body building and repair. ’ \ 1 12 THE FRENCH CHEF IN They ‘are essential to growth from the beginning of life to maturity, hence the necessity of securing these ele ments in the dietary of children. The foods rich in mineral salts enter the menu largely as a complement, to add bulk, and to supply the system with those salts requisite to health and building of bone and: repair work. These salts and acids are found in all vegetables and ripe fruits. Not all are contained in one fruit or vegetable, yet: all are required by the body, SO We use many and varied vegetables and fruits. Fresh green vegetables, and the non-starchy vegetables such-as spinach, asparagus,’ lettuce, tomatoes, ete., carry the greatest amount of medicinal repairing salts or minerals. Proteins are classed as most important because they are the tissue and muscle builders, and the restorers of wear and loss through motion or activity, as well as being a promoter of activity when properly assimilated. Excess consumption of protein foods, such as beef and cheese, cannot be assimilated, and so cause trouble to an over-taxed system which must care for and overwork itself on a mass of undigested food. This is equally true > of all food taken, into the body in excess of assimilation, hence the necessity of studying the component parts of a menu, that the foods may be proportioned according to a proper balance. -The normal adult should consume about five pints of fluid daily; two-thirds of this should be taken as a beverage, the remaining third will be taken in the food. If the quantity of meat is reduced in the menu, other food articles rich in proteins may be added. Beans, peas, and lentils are very rich in both protein and carbo- © hydrates, and should be included in all menus which offer little meat; -cooked with fat they~are considered - perfect substitutes for meat. o The protein foods are meat, fish, eggs, milk, cheese, wheat, oatmeal in various forms, and nuts. Beef is the most nutritious meat, mutton is next, then pork and poultry; and the least nutritious is the flesh of immature animals, such as lamb, veal, sucking pig, ete: Brain workers should eat the easily, assimilated pro- teins as found in fish and eggs. These two foods, through PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 13 other elements. than the protein they carry, replenish the nerve wear imposed upon students and brain workers. Elderly people require less protein, and mere carbo- hydrates. Meat substitutes are many. Eggs and fish are first in importance, followed closely by vegetables made into entrées in combination with cheese, butter, eggs, milk and cream. Cheese has a very high food value in protein and fat; and cooked in combination with other foods, it forms a perfect meal, provided it is digestible by the system into which it enters. Indigestibility. of cheese is sometimes caused by permitting it to boil after its addition to the combination dish. It must never be allowed to reach the . boiling point, as this hardens it and loses its fine flavor. Spinach served with eggs, asparagus served with eggs and sauce, macaroni au gratin, and lentils cooked with salt pork, etc., are all considered good meat substitutes. The carbohydrates are the fuel foods, furnishing life and energy and leaving wastage that must be rebuilt by proteins. Again we see the necessity of a varied and. balanced menu. Sugar, starch, and fat, elements evolved from the carbohydrates, furnish the energy for the busy machine, known as the human body. Foods abounding in carbohydrates are many; those providing the most energy are sugar, honey, molasses, maple sugar, cream, ripe fresh or dried fruits, cereals, and fresh or dried starchy vegetables. Fats and Vitamines: The principal sources of fat are the fat of eggs, milk and meat. These are important in the diet as they carry the fat soluble or Vitamine A, which with another substance, the water soluble vitamine or Vitamine B, are essential to growth and to life.* Vitamine A is found in abundance in almost all the animal fats, in kidney and liver tissues, and in many oils, although it is not present in vegetal oil or in oil de- rived. directly from plants. It was first detected in egg yolk and in milk. It is present in less amount in leafy vegetables, such as lettuce, spinach and cabbage, also in clover and alfalfa. * Prof. Hopkins, Department of Physiology, Harvard University. ~ 14 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Vitamine B is found in variable amounts in nearly all our foods. It is abundant in eggs and most meats, in all the seeds and grains, and particularly in unpolished ricé and in entire wheat. It is found in all fruits and milk, in many vegetables, especially in spinach, potato and cabbage. In brewer’s yeast it is found in its most concentrated form. Through experimental observation, scientists have found that beside protein, fat and carbo- hydrate, the Fat Solubles A and B are positively essen- tial to man and animals for normal nutrition, but their. research has been limited to ascertaining what vitamines do, in what foods they are contained, etc. Their exact function’ in nutrition has not been discovered. Their effects are observed only when they are not included asa part of the diet.* The menu is the plan of a meal; the assemblage of food articles so arranged that the selected ingredients , form a whole containing all the food elements in judicious proportion. The selection of foods depends largely upon climate’ and season. In warm summer months, foods which would be desirable in winter would prove distasteful. A generous amount of fat and starch can be served during winter, but these must be avoided when the weather is warm; serving instead jellied soups, green salads, and fruits and light cold desserts, ete. An assemblage of foods properly served together is“ called “a course.’ Variation should be sought in all particulars. The methods of cooking, and texture of the chief dish of each course as the courses follow one another, must be varied as to shape, color and flavor. The garnishing should be selected carefully. And above all, we must avoid the reappearance of a dish that has already appeared in other form in a previous course. Sauces served or passed with the different courses should also be ‘varied as to color and flavor. * Lecture by Dr. L. Emmet Holt, on Refining of Foods. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 15 A Typical “Reception Dinner Menu” Cocktail or Hors d’(iyvre in the form of Canapé or Oysters, ete. Soup (Remove) One entrée or Two entrées served successively as separate courses , Sherbet (often included in a very substantial dinner) Roast Choice Vegetables i Salad Dessert ; A Choice Cheese (if sweets are not liked by some guest) Café Noir % Important Items about the Menu Food articles that are rich in the same substance should not be combined in the-same menu. Rich soups, such as mock turtle or cream soups, should not be served with a heavy meal. If entered on the menu, a clear soup should be entered with it; but a clear sotip alone is suitable for a heavy meal. If a cream soup is served as a first course of a light meal, do not place upon the menu other articles served with a Cream Sauce. The same sauce should never be served twice in the same meal. ! Entrées made of eggs are suitable ‘for luncheon, but are seldom served when a soup is entered on the menu. Serve egg entrées when eggs are plentiful and cheap. Eggs Mignon, Eggs Dauphine, etc., are very nice fo luncheon, as is'an omelet with cheese or vegetables. Include in a menu-only one dish or preparation of the following: potatoés, rice, macaroni, ‘spaghetti or noodles.. / In summer, jellied soups and cold meats are desirable for luncheons. Serve a sweet omelet for dessert when the meal is light or wanting in proteins. : 16 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Frozen desserts are suitable all the year round, but hot desserts only in the cold winter months. THE ENTREE: si The Entrée is introduced into a dinner or luncheon menu as @ course, or occasionally as the complement of one or both of the two maim courses, namely the re- moval course and the roast. | Owing to the high cost of foods, the entrée has become so important that, with the exception of the ceremonial dinner, some entrées conspicuously nutritious, made of articles very rich in protein such as selected pieces or cuts of beef, mutton, lamb, veal, pork, poultry, game or fish, may take the place of a main course. These entrées are not usually bulky, as, for example, Lamb Noisette a la Parisienne, and they are usually served with a very rich sauce and tastefully dished up with a garniture made of various articles, as mushrooms, olives, truffles, capers, oysters, mussels, shrimps, salpicon of sweatbreads or ham, hard boiled eggs, poached eggs, garnishing croutons or stew, macaroni, spaghetti, noodles or rice, etc. Occa- sionally the garnishing is some choice fresh vegetable, . as spinach, asparagus, artichokes, salsify, tomatoes, ete. ; or vegetable croutons may be used, or again, purée of vegetables or of chestnuts, or mashed, duchess or cro- quette potatoes. Sometimes the garniture includes force-meat balls or quenelles as an addition to the garnishing. The greatest number of entrées are made with the other proteid food articles, such as sweetbreads, brains, kidneys, liver, tripe, tongue, trotters, calves’ and pigs’ head, fish and shellfish, eggs, poultry and game. These latter are usually made into entrées with one or several of the articles mentioned above. Often chicken, fish or sweetbreads are combined with pastry. Another kind of entrée, and no less important, are those made of odds and ends, or with left-over meat, fish or vegetables. Even though reheated articles never have the particular fine flavor of the fresher materials, yet they can be brought to a sufficient degree of succu- PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 17 lence by some particular treatment or through the addi- tion of standard broth, consommé, glaze, or their own reserved sauce or gravy. The two indispensable virtues of all entrées are: first, _ they should be perfect as to succulence, and second, they _ must retain the particular flavor of the main constituent, For instance, if a fillet mignon of beef with a Mushroom Sauce jis served, do not make the Mushroom Sauce with the remnant gravy of a roast leg of mutton. Entrée ingredients should be neatly prepared and properly cooked and the finished product should be perfect as to succulence, seasoning or flavoring. This should be verified by tasting before the final dishing-up arrangements are made. They should be served artistic- ally so as to excite the appetite and at their appearance on the table they should be hailed with delight. COLD ENTREES: Among the cold entrées the most prominent are these, _served after the roast and green salad at a reception dinner: Boned Turkey, Chicken or Pété-de-foie-gras in Aspic, ete. THE ROAST: Roasts are usually bulky; but their size depends largely on the number of guests to be served. A roast saddle of- mutton will serve ten to twelve persons. Small roasted birds, such as quail, snipe, and squab, are considered as entrée or roast as the place assigned them on the menu designates. . Ina reception dinner, the roast may consist of fowl, game, or ham; and salad is served at the same time as a complement. THE REMOVAL OR RELEVE COURSE: Dishes that are classified as the ‘‘removal course’ in a reception dinner served immediately after the soup, may be entered as the main course in a large family dinner. The so-called ‘‘removal course’ (from the French 18 THE FRENCH CHEF IN word, relevé) includes large fish or large sections of fish boiled in a court-bouillon, or baked. Whether baked or boiled, they are usually served with a rich sauce, and occasionally also with garniture. The removal course also includes the rather large choice cuts of beef, such as fillet, often braised but always served with a rich sauce, also occasionally with a garniture of potatoes or other vegetables; or again with Cromesquies of Chicken, Ris- soles, ete. The boiled beef, served with a garniture of vegetables, from which the bouillon (pot-au-few) has been made, is usually served on a Parisian Saturday evening dinner, as a second course. ; Other removal courses include such dishes as rack of veal d la Financiére or the same cut braised and served with stuffed mushrooms or tomatoes or with a vegetable garniture, or, with Macaroni 4 l’ Italienne; also, any part of leg of veal braised, served with vegetables, etc. Other removal courses are Calf’s head @ la Vinai- grette; Calf’s head en tortue, an entrée which may be served hot or cold and suitable for the main course of a luncheon; Fillet or Leg of Mutton or Lamb Braised, served with vegetable garniture; Boiled leg of lamb served with Mint Sauce; Capon or Chicken @ la Finan. ciére, au rig; Chicken @ l’Anglaise, where it is poached and served with a Bechamel Sauce; Deer Leg @ la Ven- ison; or Pheasant with Chestnut Purée, ete. A SAMPLE HOME MENU: An ordinary home menu includes the following courses: First course, Soup. Cream soups are served with croutons; clear soups with crisp crackers or bread sticks. Second course, ‘‘ Emergency Course.’’ The entry of this course depends upon the bulk of the next course; for instance, if entering a small roast as a third course for a large family, a small entrée is brought on, which, in a home efficiently managed, may be made of odds and ends, remnants of meat or fish, with vegetables or other articles. ; <. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 19 Third course (entered as the second course if.‘‘emer- gency course’’ is omitted), usually meat or fish with potatoes, rice, or macaroni, and one or two vegetables. Fourth, course, Salad with French Dressing. Fifth course, Dessert or crackers and cheese, or both served as two successive courses. Finishing with Café noir. Suitable Methods of Cookery for Different Cuts of Meat The choice of “method in cooking meats depends ° largely upon the texture, flavor and tenderness of the meat to be served. Fine-grained tender cuts are from that part of the animal called least into activity when the living animal was in motion. Stich cuts are quickly cooked by sub- jection to intense heat, thus searing the surface and sealing the inner juices. Meats cooked by this method are not seasoned until nearly ‘done, as salt draws the Juices which the process is intended to retain. Broiling is the most acceptable method of cooking these tender cuts, exposing the surface rather than the inner thickness ~*to the heat. Roasting is suitable for the more bulky yet tender cuts. Coarse, fibrous, tough meats taken from the muscular portions of the animal are equally nutritious and may be rendered as palatable by proper selection of cooking method. To attain tenderness and flavor with juiciness, the entire surface of the meat should be seared by expos- “ing it to intense heat for a few minutes, then allowing it to cook slowly, in a small amount of ‘broth, glaze or water, until tender. (See, ‘‘Braising of Meat.’’) Seas- oning is added as it is cooking. Occasionally, tough cuts of beef are cooked by boiling in broth or water to cover. (See, ‘‘Boiling of Meats.’’) ROASTING: Large tender cuts of meat, young fowl, birds and game should be roasted. The ideal roast is obtained by skewering itis meat . 20 THE FRENCH CHEF IN _ through the center, lengthwise, on a revolving spit, di- rectly exposed to the heat of a very hot, clear fire. Usually in a private family the meat to be roasted is placed upon a rack in a roast pan and then set in a hot oven. The meat should never come’ in contact with the fat, or dripping, for any length of time. | a . As in‘broiling, the meat is exposed to an intense heat at-the beginning to sear the entire surface as quickly as possible: This hardens the albumen on the surface of the meat, forming a sort of skin or crust which pre- vents the escape of the juices. The addition of liquid of any kind is not desirable, as the roasting meat is basted often with the dripping in the pan, especially the small cuts and small birds. As soon as the meat is seared, the heat of the oven is reduced, and when the roast is nearly finished, salt and pepper are added, that too early application of salt may not draw the juices. (See, ‘‘Roast.’’) BROILING, OR GRILLING: SG Articles are best prepared for broiling by being basted or rubbed with oil or melted clarified butter; and very tender meats and fish are sometimes, basted with these while broiling. A good plan for private families, when broiling steak, chops, fish, or chicken, is to allow the article to be broiled to rest on an oiled dish a short time before cooking, turning often, so that the entire surface is slightly moist- ened with oil. Articles thus macerised in oil or butter are seared far more quickly, and the result is a beautiful golden-colored finished product. To fish macerised as above in oil or melted butter, may~ be added a little lemon juice, some sprigs of parsley, sliced shallots or onion. These are added to the macerat- ing oil, and the flavors absorbed by the fish before broiling. © ’ Articles to be broiled should be carefully trimmed and wiped with a clean cloth. The broiler, or grill, is heated close to a clear smoke- less and flameless coal fire, if possible, or close to a PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 21 quick gas blaze. Hither fire must give an intense~heat. _ The heated broilet is rubbed with a piece of hard- ened dripping or suet; the article to be cooked, previously prepared, is arranged on the hot greased broiler and placed at once close to the source of the intense heat. Turn the article over every ten or twelve seconds, that every part of the surface may be seared quickly. Care must be observed not to puncture or pierce the broiling article, as thus the juices would escape. One should never use a fork to turn cooking flesh foods. As soon as the meat is seared, the broiler is held farther away from the heat, if the broiling is done over a coal fire; but if done by gas, then the heat is lowered. After this, the article is turned occasionally as necessary, according to its thickness and the time required to finish. Es Thin articles are usually done when the surface is well seared. The cooked meat will have puffed between the wires of the broiler;-and experience will teach you how to determine when the meat is cooked to the desired -point, as well-cooked meat offers much less resistance to the pressure of a finger than does medium-done meat, and this, in turn, far less than rare meat. Season the broiled food as soon as the cooking ‘is finished. PANNED STEAK OR CHOPS: If lacking broiling conveniences, panned meats may be substituted, as follows: Place a thick iron pan over the gas flame, with a piece of iron pushed under one side, so that the pan will be inclined. Heat the pan till nearly red-hot. If the steak to be panned has no fat parts, place a piece of suet at the highest part of inclined pan. Now arrange the meat, and sear both surfaces quickly, by turning every few seconds till thoroughly seared. Then lower the heat, by turning the burners half-way down, and finish with slow cooking till done, turning the meat occasionally as required. The melted fat or rendered grease will run to the lower portion of the pan, and should be gathered with 22 THE FRENCH CHEF IN a tablespoon as soon as it appears, and collected in a cup to be used later. '(See, ‘‘Dripping.’’) Season the meat when done. Articles cooked in this manner will not be fried. The glaze-lying at the bottom of the pan “may be blended with one or two tablespoons of water and added to the steak as served. = BOILING: Meat to be served as ‘‘boiled meat’’ should be placed in water actually boiling, and the water should just cover the meat. Bring the water quickly to the boiling point again after receiving the cold meat. Boil a few minutes till meat is seared; then add salt, and allow meat to cook slowly, merely bubbling at one point. The meat cooked in this manner will be juicy and tender, but the resulting broth will be poor. The reverse will be the case if the meat is placed in salted cold water, brought to the boiling point, and then permitted to sim- mer till tender. Here the meat will be rather tasteless, but the resulting stock will be good, when the necessary ingredients for White Stock or Bouillon are added. If both meat and broth are desired for serving, it is well to place the meat in cold water to cover, bring quickly to the boiling point, boil a few minutes, add salt, then simmer till tender. Boiled meats to be served at table are usually left standing in their own broth to hold their heat until serving time. Salted and cured meats are placed in cold water to cover, then brought very slowly to the boiling point and allowed to simmer slowly; bubbling at one point only till tender. This manner of cooking renders salted meats juicy. In the oft-repeated directions in this book, ‘‘place in rapidly boiling water,’’ the intention is to have the fire under the kettle of sufficient intensity to quickly raise again the temperature of the liquid cooled by the intro- duction of the cold articles of food. Once it has re- sumed boiling, the gas may be lowered as desired. Water boils at 212° F. and it matters not if it boils ’ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 23 over a slow or quick fire. The idea is to sear the surface of the meats quickly, as has been explained. Other foods, as spinach, and such vegetables as you would have retain their color, must be plunged into boiling water and kept immersed. Macaroni, rice and noodles are cooked uncovered in this manner to keep the portions apart and separate. Stir these until the boiling has been resumed after their introduction into the water; after this they need no stirring, as the boiling of the water keeps them i in motion. BRAISING: Braising is the method of cooking in a small amount of liquid tightly covered and at a moderate temperature, for a long time. The braising pot should never be out of proportion to the size of the article to be braised; the pared meat should just fit nicely into the pot. A thick-bottomed pot with close-fitting lid is required, such as the pot known as the ‘‘Dutch oven.’ ~~ The meat is usually placed on a bed of salt pork slices to prevent its adhering to the bottom of the pot; thickly sliced carrots and onion are added, also a kitchen bouquet and a little standard broth, usually veal broth, or a remnant of unthickened gravy of roast, and occasion- ally sherry and white wine, or both wine and broth. When wine is used, it is usually added first, then al- lowed to reduce to a glaze, the cover being left off the pot. Then broth is added, and that too permitted to reduce to a glaze. Then broth again, and the pot covered, a buttered paper being placed between pot and lid to retain steam. Cook slowly, as the meat is cooked as in a slow oven by the enclosed steam. A long, slow cooking breaks the fibres of tough meat and makes braising an ideal way of cooking the tougher cuts of meat or old fowl, although young fowl and tender cuts of meat are, of course, also braised. . Cuts of lean meat should be larded before placing in the braising pot. Often sliced carrots and onion are sauted till golden 3 24 THE FRENCH CHEF IN colored, in clarified butter or rendered lard-pork, and then the meat is placed on them; or again, for these 1s substituted a Mirepoix Preparation. (See recipe below.) The meat to be braised is often seared before braising, by cooking it over a hot fire, in a little hot fat, which usually is the rendered meat’s fat or lard-pork, until the surface is nicely browned. The végetables are then cooked to an amber color in the same fat. After the meat, kept covered and at a low tempera- ture, has been cooked tender, the lid of the utensil should be removed, and then the meat should be baked in a rather hot, moderate oven until nicely glazed, basting often with concentrated liquor at the bottom of the pot. This is desirable as the basting of cooking meat with liquor which has the richness of a glaze renders it finer and more moist. _ When the meat is thoroughly cooked it is removed from the pot and served hot. The liquor at the bottom of the pot is strained, the fat removed, and then served as sauce, or it is slightly thickened if so desired. MIREPOIX PREPARATION: Utilized as seasoning to meat entrées. _ Slice and cut into small dice 5 or.6 ounces of lean veal, (knuckle), removing gristle and fat; add 2 ear- rots and 3 medium-sized onions, also cut into dice. Cook over a moderate fire in about 1 ounce of clarified butter until slightly golden colored. Add cool White Stock to cover, simmer slowly about~2 hours, or till meat is soft, add a kitchen bouquet, strain and skim. If available, use 1/3 white wine, 2/3 white stock. SAUTEING: 2 Sauté in the French language means ‘‘tossed’’ or “‘to Jump.’’ An article sauted is one cooked in a heated frying pan with a little hot fat. The pan must have a thick bottom, such as the ‘‘sautoir.’’? The contents are kept in motion by a rapid shaking of. the pan, thus _tossing them about and at the same time turning them over. This manipulation is readily achieved by the professional French cooks, and the articles thus sauted PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 25 can be cooked at a high degree of heat, which will sear and brown the food quickly. In sauteing, food absorbs less fat than in the American method of occasionally stirring the food in an ordinary frying pan and a little fat, thus demanding less heat to prevent burning. . ’Sauted articles should be seasoned after they are done, on account of the extraction of the juices during cooking. If the fat used in sauteing is butter, it should be clarified; else, use half unclarified butter and half oil. Tender articles of food, such as chicken liver, seal- loped tender cuts of meat, or fish, are generally cooked enough when seared to a nice brown. This is also the case with all previously cooked articles, which of course do not require such an intense heat. Young, tender chickens, separated at the joints, may be sauted till a golden brown, and then left to cook on a slower fire till tender. (See, ‘‘Chicken Sauted a Sec.’’) Sauce for sauted articles.is made by adding a little flour to the fat left in the pan, scraping the bottom of the pan to blend the mixture with the glaze, and the whole bubbled over a slow fire till of a golden color, when water, broth, wine, sherry or glaze is added, or a com- bination of several of these liquids, cooking it as directed in ‘‘Brown Sauce.’ Sometimes the sauted article is finished in the sauce; it then comes under the head of ‘‘ Unclassified Methods of Cooking Meats,’’ which are discussed below. “After meat is sauted and removed from the pan, the glaze at the bottom of the pan should not be wasted. It can be used in braising, or in stewing, added to the broth or water. To save it, add one or two tablespoonsful of water to the glaze, scrape the bottom of the pan and stir to incorporate the two. If not used at once, set away ~ for future use. Unclassified Methods of Cooking Meats SAUTED MEAT MADE INTO STEW: The meat is cut into cubes and sauted, searing care- fully all surfaces when it is removed from the pan. A little flour is added to the fat, the glaze scraped from * 26 THE FRENCH CHEF IN the pan as the flour and fat blend, and liquid is then added, stock, broth or water, milk or cream, or a com- bination of them. Let boil very slowly till well -cooked, and render it smooth by constant stirring. Add the meat (which is usually second choice meat or poultry) and place all in a casserole. If the meat is such as to-re- quire long cooking to render it tender, the liquid should just cover the meat; otherwise it may nearly cover it. Let the casserole be covered, and the mixture simmer slowly. When the meat is arranged on the dish there should be just sufficient sauce, but no more, and it should be of a consistency to mask a spoon, and free from grease. BRAISING SAUTED MEATS: Sauted meat, seared or browned as above, may be transferred to a braising pot or ‘‘braisiére,’’ onto a bed of salted pork slices, sliced carrots or onions or both, and cooked in a small amount of broth as directed in “Braising. ’? Add the glazing from the pan in which the meat was sauted, to the concentrated reducing broth. Meats generally thus treated are boned cuts of choice meat, young chickens and small birds, trussed as for an entrée, that is, with the legs inside. Sometimes par- boiled sweetbreads are cooked in this manner, as are veal cutlets auz fines herbes, also second choice boned meat, aS upper and under sides of round, rolled and stuffed slices of same, old chicken, etc. The larger pieces are braised in a slow oven. The small ones are cooked in a moderate oven, and are basted every fifteen or twenty minutes and kept covered with an oiled paper between the pot and the cover to retain the steam. Strain the liquid, skim and serve as sauce with the meat. LARDING: Larding is the introduction into lean or dry meat, to improve its flavor, of a lardoon of fresh or salted pork or bacon through a stitch made with a larding needle. The needle holding the strip of pork is inserted under the surface of the meat about half an inch deep, and o PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 27 v at an angle of about 45 degrees; the needle point is then turned towards the surface and drawn out at the same angle. As the needle is pulled through, pressure is_kept on the lardoon with thumb and finger to hold it “in place. The needle is drawn out so as to leave the lardoon ends projecting from the meat in equal lengths. The lardoons should all be of same length and size, and fit the needle suited to the work to be done. The projecting -ends of lardoons on large articles should never be less than one inch, but less on small birds or _Sweetbreads. The stitches are taken at regular intervals, and the projecting ends are exposed in regular rows. The lard pork used for larding should be firm and tender, and should be on hand long enough to have been ' thoroughly chilled in the refrigerator. If too soft, let it stand in ice water till firm. Small articles require lardoons size of a match. Pigeons, quail and all small birds are larded at right angles to the breast bone, using short thin lardoons. Occasionally lardoons of truffles are alternated with” lardoons of pork or ham. When we speak of large articles to be larded> we mean fillet of beef, whole liver, chicken, turkey, etc. ‘ Lardoons to be run through the entire thickness of a large cut of lean meat should be 1/3 of -an inch in thickness. s DAUBING: Second or third choice cuts of meat or poor fowl, tough or stringy meats are sometimes ‘‘daubed,’’ or scored, by cutting through the surface the entire thick- ness with a thin sharp knife, to open a path to introduce long lardoons of salted pork. These ‘‘daubed’’ articles are cooked as directed in ‘‘Braising Sauted Meats.’’ : STEWING: Cut the meat into even pieces about the size pf a walnut, and cook in hot water just to cover, until tender. After the first two minutes of boiling, tHe meat should be left closely covered, to cook slowly, bubbling at one point only. 28 THE FRENCH CHEF IN This is the easiest method of cooking meat; and a very economical one because it renders the cheapest and poorest cuts palatable and nutritious, with all its food values retained. The dish may be made more bulky by the addition of vegetables in combination as the taste suggests, or by_ cooking dumplings in the broth with the meat. When done, free the top of grease; thicken the liquor to a consistency to mask a spoon by the addition of a White or Brown Roux, or by adding a little flour stirred into an equal amount of cold water. Stir for a few moments as it boils, to insure smoothness and thorough cooking. FRICASSEED MEATS: Usually fricasseed meats are first sauted in clari- fied butter to a slight amber color, then stewed as above in hot broth. When tender, free the broth of fat, and thicken with a White or Blond Roux to a consistency to mask'a spoon. Yolks of eggs are often added to fricassee, and it is usually served on toast surrounded by its own sauce. POACHING: Food articles are poached when they are immersed in boiling water or broth to cover. The liquid should always show a ready intention to boil, but never be’ permitted to actually do so. Eggs and forcemeat balls are cooked in this manner. : Timbales, mousse; custards, etc., are cooked in molds surrounded by hot water, which is kept a few degrees below the boiling point. CLARIFYING BUTTER: Clarifying butter is the process of removing the solid substances contained in it as it comes from the market. These substances, combined with the whey con- tained in most butter, cause burning. To clarify, place the butter in a deep saucepan over . a slow fire, as if melted over a quick fire the butter will ! PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 29 foam and become discolored. Remove scum as it appears, and let stand until clear, when the sediment will be found at the bottom of the dish. Cover a stone jar with a cheesecloth, to form a strainer; carefully, so as not to disturb the milky sedi- ment at the bottom, lift the pan to edge of the stone jar, and slowly pour the melted butter through the straining cloth, discarding all of the milky sediment. Clarified butter, kept covered in a cool place, will keep for a month; or covered with melted parafine, will keep a longer time. SALPICON: .A salpicon is meat, or several kinds of meat, pre- viously cooked, cut into small dice. Chicken, tongue, or ham, .often fish, are combined with mushrooms, truf- fies or both, and to these mixtures is added a Cream, Bechamel or other sauce. . They are utilized in the mak- ing of croquettes, timbales, or to fill cases, patties, shells, ete. A salpicon of ripe fruits is sometimes served as the first course at a luncheon. It is flavored with orange or grape juice, ercamt or wine, and sprinkled over with sugar. Seasoning sites Salt and Pepper: The seasoning with salt and pepper should always be carefully done, ‘as an oversalted dish is unpalatable and not proper to . send to table. It is better to send the finished article to tableya little wanting in seasoning than over-seasoned. As salt and pepper draw the juices of meats and the salts of vegetables, one must refrain from seasoning too soon. Broiled and sauted meats are seasoned when done, or nearly done. Roasted meats, if seasoned when pre- pared for the oven, should be. dredged with flour to retain the meat juices; the flour when exposed to ex- treme heat, will brown quickly and form a crust as a protection to the interior of the meat. The salt and pepper must be added to the meat before the dredging with the flour. If flour is not used, the roast should be seared before seasoning. 30 THE FRENCH CHEF IN DRIPPINGS: Nearly all stocks, soups, gravies and stews, etc., are freed from the fat covering their surfaces, before serv- ing. As the liquid is boiling or simmering, the fat circles to the side of the pot, and may be readily skimmed off with the basting spoon and set aside in a bowl to cool. More or less of the liquid will accompany these skimmed fats; but they sink to the bottom, and should be preserved carefully to add to stocks as suitable.. When the skimmed fat is cool and solid, remove it from the bowl with'a pointed knife, scrape from the under side the sediment adhering, and put with other fats you may be accumulating for clarifying. No matter how clear and free from sediment fats may seem, they must be- clarified before being used for frying in deep hot fat. (See, Frying.) Owing to their strong, seein flavor, drippings from ~ mutton or lamb and turkey ‘are used only for, soap making. ’ Fats of fried ham or bacon should be reserved in separate jars, and used for frying eggs or potatoes, or wherever not objectionable. Bacon dripping can be used instead of butter to sauté liver or roast a wild duck. CLARIFYING DRIPPINGS: To clarify fat drippings is to eliminate the water or gelatinous substances that they’ may contain. If the cakes of fat have been carefully cleared of all adhering sediment as directed in ‘‘Drippings,’’ it will be necessary -only to melt the fat over a moderate fire, slowly. It will bubble or boil (let it be slowly) at a temperature of 212° F. as long as it contains water. When it becomes still on the surface, the water has evaporated; the tempera- ture will then rapidly rise, endangering the fat, and it will burn if not watched. Usually fat is clarified as soon as the surface remains still; but if not clear remove it from the fire and allow it to cool; then add one quart of water, let boil for a few minutes, set away to cool, and when solid repeat the process of: ‘clarifying. Chicken dripping, clarified, is used to fry eggs. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 31: “TRYING OUT” OR RENDERING FATS: - Cut fat meat, suet or trimmings into small dice or bits; remove all skin or gristle, or put through the meat chopper. Place in a double boiler, and boil till fat is thoroughly rendered. Strain the fat through a cheese- cloth and cool. This will give a cake of white solid fat; ‘but it will become rancid if left too long unused. Cooked in this manner, the fat is not thoroughly rendered. The residue, after straining, may be placed in a shallow pan, a tablespoonful of water added, and, cooked over a slow fire, stirring often to prevent burning. From this! will be obtained a smaller ‘cake of slightly, browned fat. Discard all salted or cured meat fat. Fats rendered for frying are beef, suet, pork, veal and chicken. Rendered goose fat is useful in cooking - _vegetables. FRYING AND FRYER: Food when fried is cooked in deep hot fat, and usu- ally kept immersed therein. Foods cooked by lying in a shallow pool of hot fat till brown, and then turned that the other side may be- finished in like fashion, are‘not fried, but are cooked in a way to absorb too much fat and thus are rendered indigestible. ; The best type of fryer, in that it results in no loss of fat, is a deep iron kettle larger at the top than at the bottom, with a standing half-circle handle of iron at- tached like a reversed U: Into this must set a wire basket also fitted with a half-circle handle having a hook attached to its exact center. These are safety friers, as when the fat is rapidly - frying or foaming, the basket with its cooking contents may be raised and fastened to the handle above, thus preventing an overflow of the hot fat. Here too, the _saving of the fat is shown, in that the hot food in the overhanging basket drains all surplus fat back into-the cooking kettle. These frying kettles are durable, lasting for years, and are a necessity in any well furnished home. t, ! 32 THE FRENCH CHEF IN FRYING—Heat Required, and Care of Fat Before Frying: In frying, there should be sufficient fat in the kettle to entirely cover the food to be fried. Let the heat be intense, so as to quickly sear the pieces of food to a gold color. . To test the heat, try with a small piéce of the food. to be fried. If the heat is right, bubbles will form im- mediately about the frying article, but if the tempera- ture is too low, the food will sink to the bottom of kettle, and the fat will remain still. Fry small amounts at once, as the immersing of fresh lots of cold food cools the fat and it will require longer to recover the proper heat if too much is introduced at once; and the result will be that the fat is absorbed, and, aside from the waste of fat, an indigestible article of diet will be produced. Never fill the kettle with the frying articles touching one another as this prevents proper searing and thorough cooking to the center. It must be remembered that all fried articles, whether previously cooked or not, should be seared as quickly as possible. Previously cooked- food is “done as soon as seared golden. The uncooked food is dipped into in- tensely heated fat to sear it a slightly golden tinge, and then, as it requires longer subjection to heat in order-to cook through, the heat is lowered or it is set on a cooler spot on the range to finish cooking and crisping. Drain in hanging wire basket, but if this not on hand, lift the wire basket in which the food is fried to a tin pan to collect the dripping fat, and finish off the draining on brown paper. It is wmportant that the fat be heated to an intense heat before dipping the basket of food in it; usually, when it begins to smoke, it is ready to use. Always place the fryer and fat over the gas twenty minutes, or over the heat of the coal range forty minutes, before ready. to, use. FATS USED IN FRYING: _ The fats used in frying are beef fat, lard, crisco, - cottolene, clarified drippings, and olive and vegetal oils. The success in frying depends entirely upon the I PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES . 33 ‘quickness of the searing; the quicker seared, the better the finished result. - : A minute’s thought will show that the most suit- able and economical frying medium is vegetal oil. It also turns out the most pleasingly finished article of food, as to color and tender crispiness. Olive oil and vegetable oil begin to burn at a tem- - perature of 483° F. to 555° F., beef fat and lard, at 356° EF’. to 393° F.; so you may see that the high tempera- ture of the oil gives better cooking opportunity, with less danger of burning the fat, which would ruin it for further use in the preparation of food. Fe The prohibitive price of olive oil leaves the vegetal oil the one choice, particularly cottonseed oil, which has no flavor whatever, and may be combined with clarified dripping or other fat. CARE OF FAT AFTER FRYING: Each time a breaded or floured article has been fried, it is necessary to strain the partly cooled fat through-a cheese-cloth (double) placed over a receptacle. Very carefully, without stirring the fat to disturb the sedi- ment in the bottom, pour the fat through the cloth. Do not drain too closely, as the last of the fat is usually unfit for further use in cookery. EGGING AND CRUMBING: Have the crumbs ready at hand as previously directed. Cracker crumbs give a smooth coating and are best for erumbing oysters. Where a delicate golden:tint is re- quired, use freshly made crumbs from stale bread. Place the crumbs in a shallow pan. Break an egg in another shallow dish, season it with salt and pepper, and add, while beating it, two or three tablespoonsful | of milk or water; remembering that never more liquid than twice the bulk of the egg is added. Beat just enough to free the mixture of all stringiness. - Roll the articles to be crumbed in the crumbs till the entire surface is covered, then in the egg mixture until the surface is well moistened, then again in the crumbs. If too many crumbs adhere, gently shake off the super- 2 34 THE FRENCH CHEF IN fluous amount. If a fine coating is required, roll first in cracker meal. When done, sift off extra crumbs. If the eggs are not seasoned, season the crumbs with salt and pepper. / CROQUETTES: Croquettes are made with cooked meat cut into small dice, and this salpicon held together by mixing it thor- oughly with a very thick Allemande Sauce, or a very thick Velouté, or a Thick White Sauce. If this sauce is made all or in part with jellying chicken or veal broth, in turn improved by. an addition of half cream, the cooled mixture of salpicon and sauce will be much firmer and more easily moulded into ero- _ quettes. Croquettes made of finely chopped meat are not so moist nor as palatable as the above. Salpicon of mushrooms, truffles, and tongue often enter into croquette mixtures. The important point in croquette making is that the sauce be just sufficiently thick to hold the diced pieces of meat together, in order to give to the cooled mixture sufficient body to render easy shaping with the hands, and to hold the shape when so moulded. ! Croquette mixtures must, be seasoned to the taste with salt,. Cayenne or white pepper. = Chicken croquettes are often round-pyramidical in shape. Crumb them as directed, fry to a delicate golden brown crust, and crisp. (See below.) t FRYING CROQUETTES: In frying croquettes, follow carefully directions for frying given above, have the fat nearly smoking, place only three or four croquettes in basket at one time to avoid lowering the temperature, and do not let them touch one another. When they are a delicate golden brown they will be done. Drain in the basket, or remove from fat and place on brown paper in oven with door open, that they may be kept warm and crisp till ready to serve. . Immerse basket in fat and allow heat to rise to smok- ing point again before placing a new lot of croquettes PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 35. in the fat. They mist be instantly seared, to-prevent the taking up of fat, which would ruin the dish. PASTRY BAG AND TUBE—How to Use It in Ornamentation: Open the bag and set tube in place. To prevent spreading of the mixture over the side of the, bag, turn the upper edge of bag over to the outside, then fill the bag with the prepared mixture, massing it rather solidly downwards, and twisting the upper portion to encase the contents. Holding the twist with the right hand, guide the tube with the left. To force the mixture through the tube, simply twist the bag more and more, at the same time pressing on the mixture to force it downwards to replace the amount forced through the tube. To make‘fiowers or rosettes, hold the bag in a vertical position. To make a ring of potatoes, peas or chestnut purée, keep bag at 45 degrees angle. To shape Lady Fingers or Eclairs, hold bag horizontally. KITCHEN BOUQUET: Usually a‘kitchen bouquet consists of half a carrot cut lengthwise, a leek, a few sprigs of parsley, a sprig of celery, One of thyme, two whole cloves and a fourth of a bay leaf, which should always be used sparingly. ; When the preparation to which kitchen bouquet is to be added already holds any of these vegetables or condi- ments, they should be omitted in the making of the bouquet. Occasionally other plants are used, as mint, taragon, chives, chervil, etc. THE SPICE BAG: When whole cloves, bay leaves, garlic, onions, cin- namon stick, celery, mint leaves, mustard seed, pepper corns, etc., enter into any food in combination or alone, they may be tied in a bag of cheese-cloth, the more easily to be removed. j FLOURED BUTTER: This is used to thicken sauces, and consists of any amount of creamed butter to which is added an equal 36 THE FRENCH CHEF IN bulk of flour. Blend by rubbing ‘well together, till a smooth soft paste is formed. It is used when a sauce thickened with diluted flour or starch is not sufficiently thick, as an addition to the sauce. Add it in small bits to the bubbling mixture while shaking the kettle, then let cook one or two minutes, till melted and blended with the sauce. SPICED SALT: Spiced salt is usually simply a cup of salt thoroughly mixed with a rounded tablespoonful of black pepper. ‘Sometimes finely grated nutmeg and powdered bay leaf are added. PEPPER-CORN AND ITS SUBSTITUTE: ~ When green peppers are on hand, it is nearly always, better to substitute one tablespoonful of minced green pepper for six pepper-corns. * PEPPER AS SEASONING: Pepper as a seasoning should be used moderately, as an excess may cause throat irritation or disturb the digestive system. ; Black pepper is better than white, and whole pepper freshly ground through a fine grater is more satisfactory than any other. White pepper must be used in white sauces and mixtures on, account of the color. For the seasoning of sauces or soft foods, Cayenne is thought to give the best flavor, but it must be used very earefully. ‘‘A dash of Cayenne’’ means as much as you can take on the very point of a salt spoon; it is sufficient to flavor one quart. MIXING: When mixing a solid article with a liquid, add a very little liquid at a time, and very slowly, stirring constantly to prevent the forming of lumps. When adding cornstarch or arrowroot to a hot liquid, moisten it first with a cold liquid, water, stock or milk, as the case may call for, and stir till the mixture is of 1 PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 37 ; ane creamy consistency, then add to the boiling uid. When adding boiling liquid to'a mixture of flour cooked in melted butter or dripping, add it slowly, stirring all the time to prevent lumping, let it boil a second, then add more as before, until done. “When mixing several ingredients, mix two first, then stir in the third well before adding the fourth. MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER, AND VALUES: Milk and cream constitute a most favorable breeding ground for the development of bacteria. They should be kept in very clean vessels in a cool dry place, entirely by- themselves. Butter is liable to become quickly rancid if not tightly covered and kept in a cool, clean, dry place. Butter has no equivalent substitute, but if it cannot be afforded butterine and oleomargarine may be used in its place. ‘ Raw milk intended to be drunk or sipped by infants as well as by adults should be sterilized or pasteurized. Milk constitutes one of the most perfectly balanced and digestible of foods. But a concentrated milk ration is not suitable to summer conditions nor to sedentary people. Nevertheless, as unaltered milk contains about 85% water, its general effect is not harmful. It is not™ the food eaten but the food the body utilizes that give strength. Milk contains abundant essentials, Vitamines A and B. It is one of the chief sources of lime, which is so indispensable to bone formation during the period of growth. One ounce of milk contains as mych lime as one egg or a good helping of spinach. Besides water, the other principles in milk are, fat, 4% to 6%, protein, 3% to 4%, milk sugars or Lactose, 4.75% to 5%, valuable ‘mineral salts, 0.75%. Table cream contains about 15% to 18% butter fat, » with a little less of all the other food materials. Whip- ping cream usually contains 45% butter fat. To im- prove the quality of a dish, you may add before serving to a sauce or a soup, especially to those made with milk and Roux, a little fresh cream. If the cost is justified, flavor and texture will be unsurpassed when serving a ~ ~N 38 THE FRENCH CHEF IN choice vegetable in warmed cream as a substitute for a White or Cream Sauce. By scalding the milk, the essential principle of the nulk, the albumin, is transformed, the lactic ferments are partly destroyed, and the living parts of the milk, the enzymes and the vitamines, are killed. This trans- formation renders the milk indigestible and deficient for the diet of infants and young children. For the same reason cream should never be scalded, and when using cream in sauce or soup it is desirable to use fresh cream and add when serving. CARAMEL FOR COLORING: This caramel used for coloring brown, should never be added to any soup, sauce, etc., as it alters flavors, and its use is undesirable because a sugar that is boiled long enough to assume a dark brown color has a burnt flavor. All mixtures that must be brown colored should be browned by a browning process. : SOCLES: Soeles are layer-stands for the support of chickens, birds, large pieces of meat, tongue, fish, ete., which add to the appearance when served. Fill a mocha-cake tin « with hot mashed cooked hominy or rice, which will retain the mold form and shape when on the platter. ‘SKIMMING: : Use a skimmer to remove scum, doing it gently so as not to break and scatter the floating residue. .To skim fat from cooking foods, use a large spoon, gather all possible, and set aside in a bowl to be added to dripping as before directed. TO CHOP PARSLEY: Gather some dry parsley, remove stalks, and press leaves between thumb and finger ; using a French knife eut fine, then chop till finely mine red. Wrap it in a tewel and let cold water run on it. Thoroughly squeeze out all moisture and set away in the refrigerator. PRIVATE AMERICAN. FAMILIES 39 HOW TO CREAM BUTTER: Place butter in a warm bowl, and work with a wooden spoon until soft and creamy. MUSTARD MIXING: ~ Mix three tablespoonsfuls of mustard’ and one tea- spoonful of sugar; then add hot water gradually to obtain a thick paste. If preferred, use half vinegar. BUTTERED CRUMBS: Buttered crimbs are made by mixing the- crumbs in melted butter over the fire. TO SCALD MILK: Pour milk in double boiler with lower pot half-full of cold water. Cook, covered, until the Water in lower pot is boiling. Or pour milk in a wet saucepan and cook uncovered over a moderate fire until the milk threatens to overflow the pan. 40 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHAPTER II MEAT, FISH AND VEGETABLE SAUCES, AND ROUX General Directions GUCCHES in cooking depends largely on the use and making of perfect sauces, which secure to the finished dish the réquired degree of succulency. A well finished sauce should be irreproachable as to flavor, color, and thickness, and be perfectly smooth and glossy. A good cook always has on hand some good sauces, or stock for sauces. He carefully keeps all remnants of sauce'and stock and the dripping from roasts, ete., and these, thoroughly cooled, are freed of the cake of fat formed over the surface, and the underlying liquid used as a source of material upon which he may draw to flavor, enrich and improve sauces. It is well to remember that good sauces are long steps toward economy; as neatly prepared left-over meats may always be reheated, without boiling and loss of nutrition and palatableness, in a harmonizing sauce. MAKING OF ROUX: The Roux are the foundation of nearly all the French sauces, and are used to give body to rich concentrated meat or fish stock, and occasionally are added to glaze, wine, cream, mushrooms, etc. There are three kinds of Roux, White, Blond, and Brown. Both Roux and the thickened liquor require a more or less long slow cooking. Roux are always made over a very slow fire and require pastry flour or flour rich in starch. When making Roux, after arranging burners to pro- ‘duce a slow heat, place over the fire an old tin lid, and upon this the saucepan, which should be of a size in proportion to the amount of sauce to be made. White and Blond Roux may be made with ordinary butter. Place the butter in a saucepan over a gentle PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 41 heat. When melted and hot, add the flour and stir constantly, to blend thoroughly, lift the pan occasionally while cooking and cook in all about ten minutes. Let it bubble at least a couple of minutes without allowing it to color. Brown. Roux should be made with clarified butter, as it must be cooked longer to obtain a golden-brown color, and, as mentioned before, the clarified butter is less liable to burn quickly. It also requires a slight increase in the amount of flour, as, through the longer browning process, it loses a little of its thickening quality. It will require careful stirring and an occasional removal from the fire to prevent a too great accumulation of heat. Cook very gently about twelve minutes or until the de- sired color has been obtained. White, Blond, or Brown Roux differ only in the de- gree of coloring, and this is gradually secured as the butter and sifted pastry flour are simmering. White Roux must remain white, Blond Roux must be-stirred and simmered until it just begins to color amber, and Brown Roux until chestnut brown shading to golden. ‘To flavor a roux, if desirable, one may slice one onion, shallot, or carrot as desired, and simmer slowly a few minutes in the melted butter. Remove it before adding the flour. Owing to \its long preparation and the care it re- quires, the following Brown Roux should always be kept on hand, to use cold as needed. BROWN ROUX (To Thicken a Half Gallon of Liquid) : “Melt over a very slow fire 5 ounces of clarified butter or 5% of acup. Stir and blend in very gradually all the pastry flour it may absorb, about 5 ounces. Cook about 30 minutes or until it has been brought very gradually to a very light brown color of a golden shade, occasionally lifting pan to prevent burning. If burned the least bit it will be unfit to use. Stir often so it browns evenly. Remove it from the fire before it gets too brown, and as - it will still cook and brown when removed from fire, stir until partly cooled. Turn into an earthen bowl. It will 42 > THE FRENCH CHEF IN keep 3 or 4 weeks, covered in the refrigerator. Two level tablespoons will thicken one eup of liquor. WHITE ROUX, for One Cup of Sauce of Average Thickness: . 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons pastry flour Proceed as directed at ‘‘Making of Roux.’’ BLOND ROUX, for One Cup of Sauce of Average Thickness : Same as preceding, only allow the Roux to bubble a little longer or till it just begins to color slightly amber. BROWN ROUX, for One Cup of Sauce: , 2 tablespoons clarified butter 2% tablespoons pastry flour Proceed as directed in latter part of “Making of Roux.’ FOUNDATION SAUCES: : ‘A few sauces are called ‘‘foundation sauces’’ because they are added to other ingredients to produce another sauce; or two or more foundation sauces are combined. The foundation sauces are: Espagnole, or Brown Sauce, Velouté, and Tomato Sauce or Purée, for which is often substituted a less amount of Tomato Paste. Cream and White Sauces are also considered as mother sauces. Where much fine cooking is expected the Espag- nole and Velouté Sauces should be kept always on hand. Diluting of Roux, Finishing and Keeping of Sauces The French cook wisely keeps on hand Roux made in advance, especially the Brown Roux, which requires much care (see ‘‘Brown Roux’’ above), because it gives best results to dilute a cold Roux with hot liquid. If the Roux be hot he usually dilutes it first with cold or luke-warm liquid, then adding the remaining liquid, hot. When time is short and the flour is simply blended in the hot. fat, the liquid is added hot. Whatever method you choose, it is indispensable to stir or beat the Roux at the bottom of the pan with a i PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 43 wooden spatula or whisk, while adding the liquid a little at a time. Stir or beat after each addition of liquid, until smooth. After the liquid has all been added, beat with a wire beater until smooth and boiling. At once place the pot over a very slow fire, placing a wedge under a side of the pot in order to keep the sauce constantly and very slowly bubbling at one point for from 30 min- utes to one to six hours, or as long as recipe directs. Add liquor occasionally to replace what has evaporated, in order that the finished sauce may be of a thickness that. _will just mask or coat a spoon. By this long, slow cooking, foaming of the sauce will take place, and: the inert particles or frothy matters held in the sauce will rise and accumulate on the top, where they are collected and removed as soon as they appear. It requires one hour to thoroughly finish or pass”? a Brown Sauce. An Espagnole Sauce will require, at the least, five or six hours. In‘hotels and clubs the Espagnole is cooked from 12 to 24 hours, but this is not practicable in a private kitchen. All these finished sauces should be smooth and glossy, and of a thickness to mask a spoon. When these sauces are not used at once, it is well to beat them oceasionally to prevent the formation of a skin; or if set away to cool, place the saucepan in cold water and beat the sauce while cooling. Remember that beating and straining render sauces smooth. When a finished sauce is set aside in hot water till serving time, pour over the top a little of the liquid that ce has entered into its composition, to prevent the forma- ; tion of a film; then beat vigorously with a whisk just. before serving. - _ Before setting a finished cooling sauce away to be kept, place bits of butter to melt over its surface to pre- vent filming. ; - BROWN STOCK, I (STANDARD STOCK): Melt 3 tablespoons or 1% ounces of clarified butter (or use dripping. or beef marrow removed from bone, or part butter and part marrow). .Remove fat, and hy com- — 44 THE FRENCH CHEF IN gristle from two pounds of knuckle of veal aud two pounds of shin beef or lean trimmings and cut the meat in small pieces. As soon as the butter has assumed a light amber color, add the prepared meat and add two or three each, onions and earrots sliced thickly crosswise. Cook all together over a rather quick fire until golden brown, taking care that the contents of the pot do not stick to the bottom. When colored right, add cold White Stock to cover the meat, and bring it to a boil; skim, and add a kitchen bouquet and a few peppercorns, and allow it to cook slowly, bubbling only at one spot, for five or six hours, skimming the fat and foam from the surface as fast as it appears; occasionally add. more hot White Stock to keep meat covered and replace the liquor evap- orated. If water is added in place of stock, a little salt must also be added. Often a little lean ham is used with the veal and beef ‘in making Brown Stock. This stock is used to make nearly all the Brown Sauces. EMERGENCY BROWN STOCK, II: To avoid the special buying of meat to make stock for a private family, gather all the beef, veal and chicken trimmings, and ‘after removing fat and gristle, cook in hot melted dripping, add vegetables and condiments, and treat as for ‘‘Brown Stock’’ above. You may add at the same time as the liquid such remnants as you may have of roasts, or bones of veal or beef, or carcass of fowl, cutting them into small pieces and removing the fat and gristle. / To make a Brown Stock on short notice, add one tablespoon of meat extract to one cup water, or dissolve two or three cubes in water. But if you have at your dis- posal some roast dripping and liquor of roast beef, that is, when the roast gravy has been made by the first method, you may use the liquor freed of fat as a part of . the liquid, adding if possible, the available remnant gravy of the roast or water and a bouillon cube. ESPAGNOLE SAUCE: _ The following formula is for one quart of sauce, but /wing to the time required for its preparation and its PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 45 many uses where much fine cooking is expected, a gallon should be made. % cup clarified butter ¥%ecup mushroom liquor or a 52 cup pastry flour few dry mushrooms soaked 1¥% pints Brown Stock in 4% cup cold Brown Stock 1 eup Tomato Pureé or water Salt and pepper as needed ‘With butter and flour make a Brown Roux as directed at ‘“Making of Roux.’’ Then dilute it with the Brown Stock and proceed as directed above at ‘‘Diluting of Roux,’’ ete. Add the remaining ingredients. Stir con- stantly until boiling. Remove the pot to a slow spot on the range, placing under a side of pot a wedge in order to keep the sauce slowly bubbling at one point 4 or 5 hours. Larger amounts' of sauce are cooked longer, about 6 hours. Add occasionally some Brown Stock to replace what has evaporated, in order that the finished sauce may mask aspoon. Skim off all frothy matters that appear on top, and strain through a very fine strainer. Season as needed, with salt and black pepper. BROWN SAUCE (One Cup or Half a Pint):. 2% tablespoons clarified butter 2% tablespoons pastry flour 1 thin sliee of carrot 1 eup cold Brown Stock 1 thin slice of onion . Melt the butter over a slow fire. Cook the two slices of vegetables in the hot butter until amber colored, and remove the vegetables. With the hot fat left in pan and’ the flour make a Brown Roux as directed at ‘‘ Making of Roux.’’ Stirring, dilute it with the stock, adding a little atatime. Stir until smooth after each addition of liquid. When the liquid is all added, beat until boiling. Remove the pan to a slow fire and cook, bubbling at one point, 30 minutes. Skim off frothy matters and add as and when needed, some hot Brown Stock to replace what has evap- orated. If available, add a tablespoon meat Glaze. Large quantities of Brown Sauce should be cooked much longer. SHERRY SAUCE (Served with Braised or Sauted Meat or Fowl, etc.): Reduce a fourth cup of sherry to an eighth of a cup. Add one cup or more of Espagnole or rich Brown Sauce, Beat until boiling.- Simmer until it masks a spoon, 46 THE FRENCH CHEF IN MUSHROOM SAUCE: Make as directed above, a Brown or a Sherry Sauce. Drain % cup canned mushrooms, cut each mushroom in two lengthwise and add them to sauce, also a table- spoonful mushroom liquor, and allow it to bubble at one point for 10 minutes. DEVILED SAUCE: ’ Put in a small saucepan over the fire 14 cup. of white wine vinegar. Add a tablespoonful of very thinly chopped shallot. Reduce by boiling to a half glaze; add a cup of Espagnole or rich Brown Sauce, then three tablespoons of Tomato Purée, and simmer 10 minutes. Season rather highly with a few grains Cayenne and 24 teaspoon of Worcestershire Sauce. ROBERT SAUCE: ‘This sauce is served with boiled, broiled or braised meat, yenison, etc., or to re-heat left-overs. 2 tablespoons clarified butter 1 cup Brown’ Stock 2 tablespoons onion cut in 1 tablespoon meat Glaze or rem- very small dice nant gravy of roast 2 tablespoons Sauterne A few grains Cayenne pepper 21% tablespoons pastry flour 1 teaspoon dry English mustard If the Sauterne is not available, use instead 1 table- spoon taragon vinegar and add to the finished sauce a few drops of lemon juice. Cook the onion in the butter until amber colored. Add Sauterne and reduce to a glaze. Add and blend in the flour. Carefully cook until golden-brown colored. Stirring, dilute it with the cold stock, adding meat Glaze. Beat till smooth and boiling. Remove to slow fire and let bubble at one point until the onion is tender. Before serving add mustard. PIQUANTE SAUCE: Served with broiled or boiled meat, baked fish or veni- son, or to re-heat left-overs. wt “ec PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 47 1 tablespoon butter Salt and pepper as needed 10 shallots, chopped 1 teaspoon capers, liquor pressed 2 tablespoons vinegar out = 14% cups Brown or Espagnole 1 tablespoon sour pickles, liquor Sauce pressed out and chopped 2 tablespoons stock or Sau- At option add a tablespoon terne, or both Tomato Paste or Purée Stirring, cook the shallots in the butter in an enameled saucepan until very slightly amber colored. Add vinegar and reduce to a glaze. Add stock or Sauterne, or both, and the Brown Sauce. Beat until smooth and boiling. Allow it to cook bubbling at one point 15 minutes. Season as needed. Before serving add capers and pickles. ORANGE SAUCE: Served with mutton, lamb chops, or with Noisette of same; with croquettes and wild duck, ete. 2 Zest (outer rind) of 2 oranges 1 orange, juice only cut in’fancy shapes 1 tablespoon of lemon juice 1 eup Brown Sauce 1 orange separated into neatly 1 tablespoonful of Glaze or re- pared sections duced roast gravy, or 1 A dash of Cayenne and salt bouillon cube to taste Cook ‘zest in water to cover, for a few minutes, and drain. Prepare the Brown Sauce, add glaze, zest, lemon and orange juice, and let simmer slowly, until sauce masks the spoon. e Place sections of orange in the sauce just before serv- ing; pour sauce over meat, arranging zest and orange about the dish. * TARAGON SAUCE: Served with boiled meat, baked fish, or roasted saddle of mutton, ete. ; To one cup of Espagnole or Brown Sauce, add a little meat glaze or Brown Stock and 1 teaspoon lemon juice, and bring to a boil over a gentle fire, then set aside to simmer very slowly till it will mask the spoon. Plunge into boiling water 2 dozen taragon leaves (stems re- + moved), drain and add to the sauce. 48 THE FRENCH CHEF IN TARAGON SAUCE, Quick Method: Take 2 dozen taragon leaves, stems removed, and cover with 1 cup of boiling water. Drain. Add to plain Brown Sauce or Espagnole. GIBLET SAUCE: Cook -a gizzard in stock until tender. Remove any tough portions, and chop fine. Make a cup of Brown Sauce. When it is boiling add the chopped gizzards, and set to simmer, gently bubbling at one point, 15 minutes, and skim. WHITE WINE BROWN SAUCE: ~ Served with sauted meat, ete. Gently boil 144 glass of white wine till reduced one- half. Add 1 cup of Brown Sauce, 1 tablespoon of Glaze, and let simmer over slow fire till it masks a spoon, or until of a syrupy consistency. Season with pepper and salt to suit the taste. 3 ; Blanched mushrooms are a pleasing addition to this sauee. * ITALIAN BROWN SAUCE: Served with broiled or roasted meat, ete. _ Chop fine 6 blanched mushrooms, 2 shallots, 1 table- spoon parsley, mince 1 tablespoon boiled lean ham, and cover these with 1 glass white wine. Cook till reduced to half. Add 1 cup Brown Sauce or Espagnole-and 1 table- spoon of Glaze. Simmer gently over slow fire 15 minutes. Before serving, beat into the sauce a few small bits of butter. . ITALIAN WHITE SAUCE: I Served*with boiled meat or fish, ete. _ Same as above, only substituting for the Brown Sauce a Veal or Chicken Velouté, and White Stock in place of meat Glaze. POIVRADE BROWN SAUCE: Served with braised or broiled meat, baked fish ; also good with roast venison and spring lamb, etc. i PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES — 49 2 tablespoons butter 4 tablespoons taragon vinegar 1 onion, chopped fine 1 sprig of thyme | 1 small carrot, chopped fine 2 cloves 3 shalots, chopped fine 4 crushed peppercorns % bean garlic, chopped fine 1% eups Brown Sauce 1 tablespoon chopped lean ham 1 tablespoon meat Glaze Melt butter in saucepan. When hot add vegetables, all finely minced, also the ham, and cook over a moderate fire, stirring, till amber-colored; then add the vinegar and cook over a quicker fire till reduced one-half. Now add the rest of the ingredients, and simmer 25 minutes, skimming the fat and foam as they appear. Strain. POIVRADE WHITE SAUCE: Served with boiled fish, boiled meat, etc. Same as for Brown Poivrade, only in place of the Brown Sauce, substitute Velouté; and for meat Glaze, substitute White Stock. ‘Take care that the cooking vegetables and ham take on no color, as the sauce must be white. . BORDELAISE: Served with steak, lobster, braised beef fillet, ete. 2 tablespoons oil, or part butter % cup red wine 6 shallots, chopped fine 3 ounces beef marrow 1 onion, chopped fine a 1 eup Brown Sauce, or Espag- 1 slice garlic, chopped fine nole z Wrap marrow in cheese-cloth, and poach till softened ; drain and cut in pieces. Put oil in small saucepan over slow fire, add onion, shallot and garlic, simmer a few minutes, add wine and reduce one-half; add sauce and stir till bubbling, then add the marrow. Simmer bub- bling at one point till it masks a spoon, skim, and stir occasionally. Season as needed with salt and pepper. OLIVE SAUCE: Serve with sauted or broiled meat, ducks, ete. Remove neatly the stones from a dozen olives without altering their shape. Scald these a few minutes in boiling Water; drain, and add to a Brown Sauce. 50 THE FRENCH CHEF IN PERIGUEUX SAUCE: Served with Chicken Rissole or Cromesqitis, braisee or sauted, meat, fowl or game, and in many dishes \wher« truffle is used. 2 tablespoons clarified butter Y cup sherry 2 tablespoons finely chopped 4 crushed pepper-corns ' onion 1 clove 2 tablespoons lean ham, cut in 1 small sprig of thyme small dice 1 tablespoon meat Glaze 2 shallots, finely chopped. 2 tablespoons truffle cut in smal A little truffle trimmings, dice finely chopped 1 cup Espagnole or Brown Sauce Simmer shallots, onion, truffle trimming, and ham i melted butter till amber-colored, as in previous sauces then add the sherry, pepper-corns, clove and thyme; boi till reduced one-half. Add the Brown Sauce and mea Glaze, stirring as you add them. Simmer till it mask: a spoon, skimming, as needed, while cooking. Strait through a sieve, then re-heat, and add diced truffles Simmer 2 minutes, and season to taste. ‘D’UXELLES SAUCE, or Stuffing Paste for Article: Baked er Broiled in Paper Cases: ’ 3 tablespoons butter ¥, cup Sauterne 4 shallots chopped fine 1 eup Espagnole or Brown Tc A thin slice lean ham, diced mato Sauce 34 cup fresh mushrooms, 1 ‘teaspoon chopped parsley chopped At option, a little choppe: 1 small bean garlic, to be re- truffle to add with parsle: moved When the sauce must be white, substitute’ Velouté o Allemande Sauce to the above Brown Sauce, and whe) the sauce is to be served with fish, leave out the ham. Cook and stir the shallots a few minutes in the melte butter, over a slow moderate fire. -Add the ham, stir and cook one minute. Add the mushrooms, sauté over quicker fire until all the moisture has evaporated, dredg ing over all a little salt and pepper. Add Sauterne an garlic. Cook until nearly dry. Add sauce, stir, and coo. until boiling and smooth. Remove to a slow fire wher it will bubble at just one point till as thick as mayonnaise Add parsley. If needed, correct seasoning. 1 PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 51 I Often this preparation is utilized to stuff cups made of blanched mushroom caps or artichoke bottoms. Dredge with crumbs. Bake in buttered dish 15 minutes. Serve as a garnish to broiled or roasted meat. Or spread at bottom of cases a layer of D’Uxelles, set over it a slice of sweetbread or a fish left-over, and dredge with crumbs. Repeat the layers, and finish with crumbs. Bake 20 minutes. Blanched onions or raw tomato made into cups filled with layers of D’Uxelles, chopped nuts and Setunbs, may be made in the same manner. BROWN SAUCE ANCHOVY: Served with broiled meat or fillet of fish. Have ready 1 cup of boiling Brown Sauce in sauce- pan, place it in water, and then beat in 1,ounce of an- chovy butter cut in small bits. (See ‘‘ Anchovy Butter.’’) A variation of this sauce may be made by adding to the bubbling Brown Sauce, over a slow fire, 1 tablespoon meat Glaze, 1 of chopped green pepper, 2 of Tomato Purée, and 6 pared mushroom buttons cut in two length- wise. Bring to a boil and simmer 15 minutes; then finish as before. GENEVOISE SAUCE: ‘Served with boiled fillet of fish. Slice thin, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 3 shallots; cook these in 2 tablespoons of melted butter over a moderate fire, 3 minutes, stirring as they cook. Add the carcasses and trimmings of fish cut in pieces, and'a slice of garlic; cook till the vegetables are amber-colored. Now add ¥% cup of Burgundy or sherry, and 1% cups of Brown Sauce, and stir till boiling. Remove to slow fire and cook, bubbling at one point, till it masks a spoon, skimming often. “Strain into another saucepan, through a fine sieve; reheat and set in a pan of hot water, and beat into the sauce 1 ounce of Anchovy Butter cut in bits. Season to taste, adding a few grains of Cayenne. WHITE STOCK, II: Used to make Allemande, Velouté, ete. : Cut in-small pieces about 2° pounds of knuckle of 52 THE FRENCH CHEF IN veal, removing gristle and fat. Add the-broken carcass and giblets of an uncooked chicken. To these add 3 French carrots and 3 onions sliced crosswise, and cook all in 2 tablespoons melted butter, over a very slow fire, for 15 minutes; stir constantly, taking care that the mixture acquires no color. Now add cold White Stock or water to cover; add kitchen bouquet. Bring to a boil, remove to slower heat, keeping the stock simmering for about 3 hours, or until meat is soft. Replace evap- orated liquor with hot White Stock. Skim earernlly strain, and set aside for use as required. GLAZE (Substitute) : Glaze is often called for in cooking, to give to a finished article a glossy appearance; or to a sauce, a final touch that adds to body and flavor. It is also used in combination with cream, butter, eggs, mushrooms, etc., to make a rich sauce. The recipe for the standard Glaze will be found at ‘‘Aspic, or Meat Jelly.’’ This standard Glaze is seldom found in private families; so when Glaze is called for, to enrich a sauce, one often substitutes a reduced rem- nant of gravy of roasted veal. Another method is to pour some cold White Stock over split calf’s feet, add 14 teaspoon of salt, and simmer till meat leaves the bones. To the cooking meat, before done, add a kitchen bouquet and spices as for stock. Strain the broth through a double cheese-cloth, and skim all the fat on the top. Set aside till nearly cool, Put in a kettle the whites of two eggs and a piece of ice, and while stirring constantly with a wooden spatula, add very slowly the strained liquor. Put it over the fire, stirring constantly with the spatula till boiling; at once lift out the spatula and remove. the pot to a slow fire where it will bubble at one point 15 minutes. Before straining it through a cheese-cloth, add a few drops of lemon juice. DEMI-GLAZE (Half-Glaze) : Utilized to enrich other sauces. Take 1 pint of Espagnole or Brown Sauce, and 1 pint of ‘Brown Stock. If available, add a glass of white wine PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES ' 53 or sherry. Combine the mixtures, stirring with a wooden spatula over a moderate fire till the boiling point is. reached, then set to simmer till it will mask the spoon. Skim off all fat and froth as it appears. CHICKEN GLAZE: Take, as available, a calf’s foot split and broken, he giblets and broken carcass of a chicken, with sealded skinned feet of same, 1 pound of knuckle of veal with gristle and fat removed ; all cut in small pieces. Put in kettle, cover with cold Chicken Stock or Chicken Con- sommé, add 14 teaspoon of salt, and bring to boil, then simmer till meat is soft. Strain, free of all fat, and set aside to use as required. When a clearer article is de- sired, clarify it as at ‘‘ Aspic.’’ COLBERT SAUCE: Served with broiled fillet of beef or lamb chop, etc. Place over fire in a small saucepan 14 cup of standard -Glaze. As soon as it reaches the boiling point remove to a pan of hot. water; then add gradually, 5 ounces of best butter, beating all the while to insure smoothness and glossiness. Finish by adding, beating steadily all the time, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley. Serveat once. CHATEAUBRIAND SAUCE: _ Served with broiled or roasted fillet of beef, lamb chop, ete. Chop, very fine, 6 shallots; cook these over a moderate fire in 114 tablespoons of butter till they just begin to take a slight color; add 3 tablespoons dry Sauterne and cook until dry. Remove pan to a slow fire, add 14% cup of meat Glaze, stir until melted; then, without allowing * the mixture to boil, stir ‘in, bit ‘by bit, 2 ounces Maitre d’Hotel butter, beat till smodth and glossy, and serve at once. FINANCIERE SAUCE: Served with sweetbreads, “boiled. calf’s head, “baked trout, ete., or with: baked, braised, sauted meat, fowl, or fish cooked with sherry \ 54 : THE FRENCH CITEF IN 114 tablespoons butter 1 clove Ys eup lean ham, cut in small 4 pepper-corns dice 1 sprig thyme (small) 1s eup trimmings of mushroom 4% cup sherry . The available trimmings of _1 pint Espagnole or Brown trutile Sauce Y eup Chicken Stock Cook all the dry. ingredients in melted butter, over a slow fire nearly 10 minutes,'stirring often; then add the sherry, and reduce by boiling to one-half. Add Chicken Stock and Espagnole; stirring, bring to a boil, then re- move to slow fire. Allow it to bubble at one ‘point till fairly thick, when it masks a spoon. Strain and re-heat. FINANCIERE SAUCE FOR GAME: Made as above, only substituting Game Stock for Chicken Stock. FINANCIERE GARNISHING STEW: Served with braised or broiled “meat; sauted or braised fillet of fowl, ete. To a Financiére Sauce for fowl entrées, adda dozen. canned mushroom buttons, some short thick slices of cooked sweetbreads or brains, or both, and if available, a slice of truffle minéed; or some chicken liver cut in two ; pieces and sauted as directed at ‘‘Chicken Liver Sauté.,’’ Simmer one or two minutes, and add some poached Chicken Quennelles. -Set aside in hot water till served. FINANCIERE FILLING: Used for patties, cases, vol-au-vent, ete. Made as in. ' preceding recipe, only the sauce should be made thick enough to run very slowly. WHITE SAUCE: Served with meat, vegetables or fish. : 1% tablespoons butter ¥, teaspoon salt 1% tablespoons ee flour 1 eup cold milk A few Sains Cayenne For a thicker sauce use 2 tablespoons each, butter and flour. With flour and butter make over a very slow fire Ni _jPRIVATEH AMERICAN FAMILIES 55 a White Roux. Stirring’ often, cook 10 minutes, adding Cayenne. It should bubble 2 minutes in order to remove the flour rawness, taking care-that the Roux remains white. Beating, dilute it with the cold milk, adding the milk very gradually; add salt. Beat after each partial addition of milk until smooth, and after the. milk is all added, beat vigorously with a wire egg-beater until smooth and boiling. Boil just about 10 seconds. To se- cure a glossy finished sauce, strain through a fine sieve. Re-heat and beat until it bubbles again. To re-heat a cup of left-over White Sauce, add 2 tablespoons scalded milk, cook, and ‘beat until it "bubbles and is smooth. THICK WHITE SAUCE, I: * Used to mix croquettes. 4% tablespoons butter 64 cup milk 41% tablespoons flour We teaspoon salt A few grains Cayenne Make as directed in previous recipe for White Sauce. ‘Sometimes it is desirable to introduce yolks of eggs into a sauce, in which case use a little less butter and flour, and as soon as the sauce comes to a bubble, place ’ the saucepan in hot water to retain the heat, without further boiling. Stirring constantly, add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, and continue to stir, leaving the pan in the hot water, for 5 minutes, till yolks are well cooked and set. yea THICK WHITE SAUCE, II: Used in filling patties, vol-au-vent, ete. 2% tablespoons butter 1 cup milk 2% tablespoons flour 4% teaspoon salt A dash or a few grains Cayenne Proceed ‘as directed at White Sauce, above. When done set the sauce in hot water, to retain heat. To each cup of sauce, add about 114 cups of the material to be used in filling; stir carefully to mix with sauce without breaking the shape of the solid article. In this manner the added material may re-heat without boiling, as boiling is not desirable. ~~ 56 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CREAM SAUCE: Make same as Whit¢ Sauce, substituting thin cream for milk, or using half milk and half cream. Keep hot in pan of water till serving time. CHEESE SAUCE: 2 Utilized to make vegetable au gratin dishes. Make White Sauce, set in pan of hot water, and then add from 2 to 6 tablespoons grated cheese; season to taste with salt and a few grains of Cayenne. | Sometimes a tomato sauce is used in place of the White Sauce; but in either case, the sauce must not boil after the grated cheese is added. SOUBISE SAUCE: Served with roast veal, chops, ete. 8 tablespoon clarified butter 1 cup milk, or part cream 3 tablespoons pastry flour Y% teaspoon salt ‘ A very small dash Cayenne Boil 5 or 6 white onions until soft, changing the water after it has boiled the first 5 minutes; drain thor- oughly, then turn them into a little melted butter in a saucepan. Set over a slow fire and cook slowly till most of the moisture has evaporated. Rub through a purée strainer. Add a White Sauce made of above ingredients, - re-heat to boiling point, and at once remove from the fire. Add a few bits of butter, stirring well. If desired, you may cook until soft some very tender onions in the melted butter instead of boiling them; but great care must be taken that they do not color. CAPER SAUCE: _ Add a large tablespoon of capers to any of the follow- ing sauces: White, Cream, Bechamel, or Velouté Sauce. MORNAY SAUCE: Served with poached eggs, fish, etc. Beat into a cup of White Sauce two slightly beaten . egg-yolks and cook, without boiling, about 6 minutes or PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES B7 ‘till the eggs are set. Season as needed with a few grains of salt and. white pepper. Set it in a bath of hot water and stir in 11%4 tablespoons grated cheese. When this sauce is to bé served with fish, make with oe Stock a Velouté, add a little cream, and omit the cheese 7 VELOUTE SAUCE: The following formula is for 1 pint; but where much fine cooking is expected make 2 or 3 quarts of sauce, and cook at least 2 hours. 3%4 tablespoons butter 1 pint White Stock II for uy cup pastry flour sauces or veal broth A very small dash Cayenne If sauce is to be utilized: with fish, use Fish Stock as liquid. With butter and stock make a White Roux, adding the Cayenne. Dilute the Roux as directed at ‘‘Diluting of Roux,’’ adding the stock a little at a time. Stir or.beat constantly until smooth and boiling. Remove pot over a slow fire where it will slowly bubble at one ‘point 1 ae Skim as needed and add stock to replace what has evaporated until sauce masks a spoon. Season, if needed, with salt and white pepper. Occasionally, when the chicken flavor is not objectionable, you may use Chicken Stock as liquid. ALLEMANDE SAUCE: Add to a bubbling Velouté Sauce, as in preceding, 14 cup of washed mushroom trimmings, and simmer 1 hour, as directed. Rub through a fine sieve; re-heat it to a boil, then add 2 slightly-beaten ‘yolks of eggs, beating them into the sauce, also a few drops of lemon juice; set pan in hot water ‘and cook below the boiling point till the eggs are set, Before serving beat in a few bits of butter, and season to taste with salt and white pepper. This sauce is often substituted by a White Sauce, into which is beaten the slightly whipped yolks of 2 eggs and a teaspoon of lemon juice. Set back in pan of hot water and beat well just_before serving. = 58 THE FRENCH CHEF IN SUPREME SAUCE: © Served with chicken, vegetables, poached eres, ete. Simmer until rather thick a cup or a pint of Velouté Sauce made with a Chicken Stock or White Stock I. When done place it in hot water, beat in 44 or 34 cup warmed cream and 2 or 3 egg- -yolks slightly whipped. Cook without boiling, until eggs are set. Season with salt and white pepper. \ CURRY SAUCE: a v Served with boiled meat, ete. Same as Velouté Sauce, only using 334 tablespoons of : flour mixed with 1 teaspoon of curry powder. d BLOND MUSHROOM SAUCE: Usually served with boiled meat or fowl. With a pint of White Stock II make a Velouté Sauce, binding it with a Blond Roux made of 4 tablespoons clari- fied butter and 4 tablespoons pastry flour. Add 2/3 cup of blanched small mushroom buttons, cutting the larger ones in two lengthwise. Season with salt and a little Cayenne. VILLEROI SAUCE: . For the coating of meats that are to be cooked again. Reduce over a very slow fire 1144 cups Velouté until thick. Stir oceasionally with a wooden spatula at the bottom of the pot while it bubbles at one point only, then beat in 4 or 5 slightly whipped egg-yolks. Cook a few minutes below the boiling point. Rub through a fine sieve. Add to seasoning, as needed, a few grains Cayenne and salt. When partly cooled, roll in it the articles to be coated. : NORMANDE SAUCE: Served with poached fillet of fish. Prepare with a Fish Stock 114 cups of Velouté Sauee, Allow it to bubble at one point until thick, and it fairly | masks a spoon, then skim. In-a second saucepan beat 2 \ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 59 we or 3 yolks of eggs to which has been added ‘a tablespoon of lemon juice. To this add slowly, beating as added, 14 cup of boiling hot mushroom liquor; and, combining the two mixtures, cook in hot water till it masks the spoon, adding 2 tablespoons thick cream. Just before serving beat in 1 ounce of fine butter, or either Shrimp, Lobster or Crab Butter. Season with salt and white pepper as needed. a CHAUDFROID SAUCE FOR FOWL, I: 7 Cook one pint- Chicken Velouté Sauce by simmering over a slow fire till it masks a spoon. In a bowl beat the yolks of 3 eggs, to which has been added 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. Continue beating as added a little of the hot sauce; then, stirring constantly, combine the two -mixtures, and cook 5 minutes below the boiling point over a slow fire. Stir in 114.tablespoons of gelatine that has soaked 20 minutes in % cup of cold clarified broth or water. Remove at once from the fire, and beat while cooling. When cooled, and before it jellies, mask the chilled article with the sauce. CHAUDFROID SAUCE FOR FOWL, II: Dissolve in a pint of hot Chicken Velouté that masks a spoon, 2 tablespoons of gelatine that has been soaked 20 minutes in 14 cup of cold unjellied Chicken Stock, or water;. add a tablespoon of lemon juice, and salt and pepper as needed, and beat while cooling. Mask chilled fowl with the sauce before it has entirely cooled. GAME STOCK: Used in the making of satices, or Chaudfroid Sauce for game. Put in a saucepan the broken carcasses and trimmings of game birds with 2 or 3 each sliced onions and carrots, a kitchen bouquet, 2 cloves, a few peppercorns and a gill of sherry. Place it over a moderate fire and cook till the sherry is Feduced to a glaze. Add at once a rich cold White Stock to cover; bring it 10 a boil and remove at once to a cool spot, where stock may simmer gently for 2 hours. Skim as needed. Strain, through cheese-cloth. * 60 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHAUDFROID SAUCE FOR GAME: 4 tablespoons clarified butter 2 tablespoons granulated gela- 5 tablespoons pastry flour tine 1 pint game stock 2 Dissolve the gelatine in 1/3 cup of cold clarified broth or clear game stock, letting it soak 20 minutes. The soaking liquor must not be jellied. With the butter. and flour make a Brown Roux, and dilute with the Game Stock as explained at ‘‘Diluting of Roux.’’ Beat with a wire egg-beater until smooth and boiling: Set it to sim- mer very slowly for 40 minutes. Skim as.needed. Then remove from the fire and stir in the dissolved gelatine, beating well. Mask the chilled game with the sauce before it has entirely cooled. The sauce may be rubbed through a fine sieve. VENISON STOCK: Used as a foundation for Venison Sauce. Using venison trimmings and vinegar in place of sherry, proceed as for ‘‘Game Stock.”’ VENISON SAUCE: 3 tablespoons clarified butter 14% cups Venison Stock 3% tablespoons pastry flour - Make a Brown Roux with butter and flour and dilute with the cold Venison Stock; beat constantly till brought to a boil, then simmer very gently for 40 minutes. Skim, beat, and season as needed. POULETTE SAUCE: Served with boiled meat, fish, oyster, mussels, frogs, vegetables, ete. Make, with a Chicken Stock, a Sauce Velouté as before directed.. In-a bowl put 2 or 8 yolks of eggs, and add a~ few bits of butter, a small dash of Cayenne, 4 teaspoon of salt, and 1 teaspoon of lemon juice. Beating the egg mixture, add little by little the finished hot Velouté till a pint has been added, stirring all the time. Strain and place the pan containing the combined mixtures in hot water till eggs are set and beat. -PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 61 CARDINAL SAUCE: Served with fish croquettes, fish loaf or fish mousse. Make a fish Velouté Sauce; reduce it by gentle sim- mering till thick, then add to each 114 cups Velouté, 34 cup of warmed cream. Cook by simmering-over a very slow fire till it masks a spoon. Remove from fire and stir into the mixture 114 ounces of Lobster, Crab or Shrimp Butter; and if desired, add a little essence of anchovies and 14 teaspoon of lemon juice. BECHAMEL SAUCE, I: Served with boiled meat, chicken, vegetables, etc. Reduce a Velouté Sauce, by simmering over. a very slow fire, ti it is rather thick, stirring the bottom of the pan occasionally with a spatula so that it does not scorch. To each 114 cups of this sauce, add 34 cup of scalded cream or rich milk, and stir the mixture as it simmers ' over a slow fire till it masks a spoon. Season to suit taste. BECHAMEL SAUCE, II:~ Served with boiled fish, vegetables, etc. 4 tablespoons clarified butter 4% cup mushroom trimmings if 4 tablespoons pastry flour available’ : ¥% each, carrot and onion, A few sprigs of parsley minced : 1 teaspoon salt A dash cf Cayenne ~ 6 erushed pepper-corns 1 pint hot milk Melt butter in saucepan over a slow fire; add vege- tables and stir as they cook slowly about 10 minutes. They must not color in the least, as this sauce must be white. Blend the flour in thoroughly, then, while con- stantly stirring, place saucepan over a hotter fire and at once add slowly the hot milk, mushrooms, parsley, salt and_pepper-corns. Stir or beat with a spatula or whisk till boiling, then remove to a cooler spot and very slowly simmer 1 hour, skimming and adding hot milk or mushroom liquor to replace evaporation. Strain through a fine sieve; and while re-heating, beat till the sauce begins to bubble, then set aside in hot water till ready to serve. ae THE FRENCH CHEF IN DRAWN BUTTER SAUCE: Served with baked or poached fish. 2 tablespoons butter 1 cup of water 2 tablespoons pastry flour 44 teaspoon: of salt eer A dash of white pepper: 1 ounce fine butter cut in bits With butter and flour first make a White Roux, then stir in the pepper and dilute with the water, stirring constantly until it comes to a boil. Add salt and set on cool fire to simmer slowly for 10 minutes. Set in hot water to keep hot. Just before serving beat into it the bits of butter; beat till smooth and glossy, and add if desired a little lemon juice. PARSLEY SAUCE: Served with poached fish. Same as for Drawn Butter Sauce, only incorporate into the butter 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley; then cut this parsley butter into bits and, removing sauce from fire, beat the bits a few at a time into the sauce. Add also a teaspoon of lemon juice. RAVIGOTE BUTTER (Green Butter): Wash a small handful of the following ingredients: parsley, taragon, chervil, chives,~watercress, half of a bean : of garlic, and a shallot. Drain, place in a pint of rap- idly boiling water and cook 2 minutes. Drain from this hot liquid and plunge at once into cold water, to chill rapidly; drain again and squeeze out all moisture pos- sibf, and pound in a mortar to a paste. Incorporate this into 4 ounces of creamed butter, adding a dash of salt and a few grains of Cayenne. RAVIGOTE SAUCE, I: Served with boiled calf’s brain, pork chops, boiled fish, pigeons, ete. To a cup of Velouté Sauce add 2 tablespoons each of taragon vinegar and White Stock; simmer over a very slow fire till it masks a spoon, skimming ag needed. Re- move from the fire, and beating well, incorporate into it 11% ounces of Ravigote Butter cut into small bits. iP PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 63 RAVIGOTE SAUCE, II: Served with meat or fish. Chop fine a few branches of parsley and chervil, a teaspoon of chives, and a few taragon leaves. Wrap these in double cheese-cloth, gathering and twisting the edges to form a crude bag, and hold under running cold water. Squeeze out all moisture, and add herbs to half a cup of mayonnaise. If the sauce is to be served with hot meat, the mayonnaise should be hot; otherwise use cold mayonnaise. If desired, color with green’ coloring (see ‘‘Green Coloring’’). ANCHOVY BUTTER: Served with steak. Wash, bone and wipe carefully 2 anchovies, and rub them with an ounce of creamed butter, through a fine sieve., CRAWFISH BUTTER: Utilized to enrich Fish Sauce. Cut in pieces shells, body bones and tough ends of claws of cooked crawfish, and dry them at oven door of a slow fire. Pound to powder in a mortar. Place in a saucepan .over a slow fire in 3 ounces of melted butter. Cook, stirring oécasionally, 15 minutes. Turn into a cheese- cloth bag and let hang over top of bowl holding ice water to harden falling butter. Drain butter from water, gather and pat it into shape, wiping it between towels. Mice the same day as made. LOBSTER AND CRAB BUTTER: Using shells ‘and body bones and claws of cooked lobster or crab, proceed as for Crawfish Butter. The Lobster Butter is sometimes made by rubbing the coral and butter through a sieve. SHRIMP BUTTER: Using the heads and shells of picked Shrimps, proceed as directed in ‘‘Crawfish Butter.’’ Reserve the picked shrimps for garnishing, ete. 64 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CRAWFISH COULIS PREPARATION: Utilized to season Fish Sauce or served with fish. To a cup of fish Velouté Sauce add 34 cup of reduced hot White Stock. Allow it to simmer slowly till it masks a spoon, remembering to skim as needed.. Pound in a mortar the meat of 12 cooked crawfish, or % of a cup of lobster, crab or shrimp meat cut in fine bits. While pounding add 6 canned mushrooms, then rub through a purée strainer. Stir this pulp into the sauce, season to suit the taste; and finish by beating in a few bits of fine butter. F MAIiTRE D’HOTEL BUTTER: Served with broiled meat, fish, ete. Cream 2 ounces or 14 cup fine butter, add a dash of salt and a very little white pepper or a few grains of Cayenne. Continue to stir, add 1 or 2 tablespoons” chopped parsley, and half a teaspoon of lemon juice. MUSTARD BUTTER: Served with broiled chops, herring or vegetables, etc. Place a bowl containing 144, cup of butter in warm water. To the softening butter add, as you stir, 1 tea- spoon of dry English mustard, a few grains of Cayenne, a dash of salt and a teaspoon of lemon juice. Remove from water as soon as the mixture is soft and smooth, but not melted, and serve at once. A substitute for this sauce is occasionally made by adding a little powdered mustard and lemon juice to a White Sauce. PAPRIKA BUTTER: Served with broiled meat, fish, ete. Rub 2 ounces of butter to a cream; add half a tea- spoon each of Paprika, lemon juice and a dash of salt. DIPLOMATE SAUCE: Served with a removal dish of large poached fish. Make a Bechamel Sauce IT, and to 1 cup of this.add 1 cup of Crawfish Coulis Preparation, stirring till it PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 65 7 fo comes to.a bubble, then let simmer till it masks the spoon. Stir fill smooth and glossy, season to suit the - taste, and finish by beating into it, when removed from the fire, small bits of butter. : : VENITIENNE SAUCE: ‘Served with poached or sauted fillets of fish. Make a pint of Allemande Sauce as directed above, add, all thinly chopped, 2 tablespoons parsley, 1 tea- spoonful taragon, 1 teaspoon chives,-and the pulp of 2 « anchovies-rubbed through a fine sieve. Beat well. OYSTER SAUCE: _ is Served with boiled fish or fowl. \ , , Parboil 2 dozen small oysters in their own liquor till plump and the edges begin to curl drawn. Remove tough parts, and add to oyster liquor enough rich milk, or part. cream, to make a pint of liquor. With 4 tablespoons of butter, and the same of flour, make-a White Roux, stir “in a few grains of Cayenne, then dilute the Roux with the liquid and stir or beat till smooth and boiling. Set to - simmer very gently till it masks a spoon. Skim and salt to taste. Set in hot water-to keep hot. Add oysters and 1/5 cup of cream the last thing. MUSSELS SAUCE: Used for boiled fish. Cook 1 or 2 pounds of mussels as directed in ‘‘ Mussels . ala Mariniére.’’ Shell these and strain liquor through ~ double cheese-cloth. Proceed with mussels and strained liquor, as for Oyster Sauce. SHRIMP SAUCE: " Used for boiled fish. Prepare a pint of Velouté Sauce made of White Stock II or of Fish Broth. When the sauce masks the spoon remove from the fire and stir in gradually 2 ounces '. Shrimp Butter cut in small bits. Season as needed, y when ‘add 1 cup picked shrimps. Or, add shrimps to a White Sauce and beat. in mn hits of Shrimp Butter. 38 66 THE FRENCH CHEF IN LOBSTER SAUCE: Using a cup of cooked lobster meat, cut into dice, and 2 ounces of lobster butter, proceed as for ‘‘Shrimp Sauce.’’ we CRAB SAUCE: Using crab meat cut into dice, and Crab Butter, follow directions for ‘‘Lobster Sauce.”’ CELERY SAUCE: Served with boiled fowls. * Cut some’ washed celery in thin slices to obtain 1 pint; cook these in salted boiling water to cover till tender, drain thdroughly and rub through a sieve. Add this purée to a pint of White Sauce. -Or, if turkey or chicken giblets are on hand, make with them a little Chicken Stock II, bind this with a White Roux, add the celery purée and 3 tablespoons of cream, and season to taste. MUSTARD SAUCE: Add and beat in a cup of Drawn Butter Sauce a tea- spoon of English powdered mustard.. Add a teaspoon. of lemon juice. Or, to a cup of Velouté Sauce beat in a teaspoon of dry mustard, a teaspoon of sugar and a tablespoon of taragon vinegar. ' EGG SAUCE, I: Served with boiled fish or vegetables. To a Drawn Butter Sauce, add, while saucepan is in hot water to preserve heat, the whipped yolks of 2 eggs, leaving to cook just below boiling point till eggs are set, stirring all the time. Then add 1 hard-boiled ege, chopped fine. Or, use a White Sauce in Place of Drawn Butter. EGG SAUCE, IT: Served with blanched artichoke bottoms, asparagus tips, leeks, ete. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 67 Put in a small saucepan the cooled yolks of 2 hard- boiled eggs; add 214 ounces of butter, a few drops of lemon juice, a dash of salt, and a few grains of Cayenne. Using a table-fork, mash these to a fine paste. Five ‘ minutes before serving, set the pan in hot water to cook, stirring constantly, till as thick as Hollandaise Sauce. Do not overheat this sauce or it will curdle; in which case it must be rubbed through a fine sieve. _A substitute for this sauce is often made with a finely chopped cold hard-boiled egg mixed in 3 tablespoons soft, creamed butter, seasoned with a few grains of salt and pepper. HOLLANDAISE SAUCE (French Process) : Used for boiled fish, asparagus, cauliflower, ete. ' Take 8 ounces or 1 cup of best-butter. Put in a small saucepan 2 tablespoons vinegar, add a few crushed. pep- per-corns, and boil until reduced one-half; then allow to cool. Add the yolks of 4 eggs. With a small wire egg- beatér crush the eggs while adding about 3 ounces of the butter cut into small pieces, a few grains of Cayenne, and a dash of salt. Set the pan over a very slow fire and beat constantly until the butter is melted, then rub through a fine sieve into another saucepan. Set this saucepan in a second pan of hot water over a slow fire. The water should never be allowed to boil, as the sauce must not be permitted to get too hot. Beat- ing constantly, add slowly, bit by bit, the remaining 5 ounces of butter, adding one bit of butter only after preceding bit is nearly incorporated into the sauce; continue beating until all is incorporated into the thick inixture. If the sauce shows signs of curdling, add at once 14 teaspoon of cold water into which has been dropped 8 drops of lemon juice, and if it unfortunately does curdle, rub it through a fine sieve and beat vigor- ously. : HOLLANDAISE SAUCE (American Process): 4 ounees or % cup of butter 1¢ teaspoon salt 3 yolks of eggs Y cup of hot water -1 tablespoon of lemon juice A few grains Cayenne Rub the butter in a small saucepan till very creamy 68 THE FRENCH CHEF IN and continue beating as you add the yolks one at a lime; then, still beating ‘vigorously, add _ salt, Cayenne and lemon juice. Five minutes before serving, set in pan of hot water, and beat in the boiling water, adding it slowly, and continue to beat till sauce is smooth and thick. Should it curdle, strain through fine sieve. HOLLANDAISE TOMATEE: Beat in any one of the Hollandaise Sauce a little Tomato Purée or Paste. MOCK HOLLANDAISE SAUCE: Made by the following method, the sauce will not curdle. 3 tablespoons pastry flour 5% cup water 3 tablespoons butter 2 egg-yolks A few grains Cayenne 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1g teaspoon salt 2 ounces best butter cut in bits With butter and fiour make a White Roux, adding Cayenne. Dilute with the water as explained in ‘‘Dilut- ing of Roux,’’ etc., adding the salt. Beat until smooth and boiling. Then, beating, allow it to simmer 5 min- utes. Set it in a pan of hot water, and 7 minutes before ~ serving beat the eggs with the lemon juice added. While constantly beating the sauce in hot water with a small wire egg-beater, add the eggs mixture. Cook in hot water 5 minutes, or till thick and eggs are set. Before serving, beat in very gradually bit by bit the second butter and beat well. MUSLIN SAUCE, I: Served with poached fish, salmon mousse, poached eggs, artichokes, asparagus, leeks, cauliflower, ete, To any of the above Hollandaise Sauces add from 4 to 3% cup of whipped cream and beat: till smooth and glossy. Add seasoning as needed. MUSLIN SAUCE, II: Put in a small saucepan the yolks of two eggs, a few grains of Cayenne or white pepper, a dash of salt, and a few drops of lemon juice. Set saucepan in hot water, PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 69 beat contents with small egg-beater till lukewarm “and of a mayonnaise consistency. Then beat in gradually some fine butter of size of an egg, cut in bits, and add 2 tablespoons of whipped cream. BEARNAISE SAUCE: Served with broiled lamb chops or steaks. Into a small-saucepan put 6 crushed white pepper- corns, a finely chopped tender shallot, and 3 tablespoons taragon vinegar; reduce over moderate fire to nearly a tablespoon of liquid. Allow it to thoroughly cool, then add 3 or 4 yolks of eggs and crush with wire egg-beater, add 1 ounce of best butter cut in small bits, set pan over very slow fire and beat constantly till butter is melted. Rub the mixture through a sieve into another saucepan. Set this pan in hot water, and beat the mixture con- stantly while adding bit by bit 3 ounces of best butter, not adding one bit till the previous one is thoroughly incorporated into the sauce. The finished sauce should be thick and smooth. Take care not to let it get too hot, or it will eurdle. Season to taste with a little salt and Cayenne, and add a few chopped taragon leaves. To a mock Hollandaise Sauce made with taragon vinegar in place of lemon juice, a few chopped taragon leaves may be added and served as a Bearnaise Sauce. VICTOR HUGO SAUCE: Served with broiled meat. To Bearnaise Sauce as above add 2 tablespoons of grated horseradish. MONTEBELLO SAUCE: Served with broiléd or sauted meat, fish, eggs, ete. To Bearnaise Sauce as above add a tablespoon of Tomato Paste. ; HOT MAYONNAISE SAUCE: Served with. fish. With two egg-yolks, a dash-of Cayenne, 1 teaspoon of salt, a cup of oil and 2 tablespoons of vinegar, make a thick mayonnaise as directed. Measure, in a standard measuring cup, 14 cup (scant) of cornstarch and stir 70 THE FRENCH CHEF IN ,into it just enough cold water to dilute the starch. Bring ‘half a pint of water to a boil, pour into it the mixed starch, beat constantly and boil just 2 or 3 seconds. Set it in a pan of hot water, and cook 3 minutes, still stirring constantly. While beating the mayonnaise in the bowl vigorously with a wire egg-beater, turn in, all at once, the hot cornstarch mixture. Beat about a minute, serap- ing sides of bowl with a flexible spatula to mix the mayonnaise thoroughly and then beat till smooth. When this sauce is served hot, add the cooked corn- starch mixture to the mayonnaise just before serving. If to be eaten cold, put it away in a cold dry place, when it will keep two or three weeks. _ It must be noted that the finished mayonnaise thus made will curdle if the starch has not been cooked enough. This mayonnaise is very economical and is preferred by many who do not like a too rich article. Also, this mayonnaise becomes thinner by standing. Pastry flour may be used in place of cornstarch, then constantly stir the bottom of the pan with a wooden spatula while boil- ing the water and diluted’ flour for 2 minutes. ! TARTARE SAUCE, HOT: _ Served with broiled or boiled fish, fish balls, oysters, ete. \ With the yolk of 1 egg, a dash of cayenne, 14 tea— spoon dry English mustard, 14 teaspoon salt, 1 table- spoon vinegar, and 1% cup of oil, make a thick mayon- naise. Mix 2 tablespoons cornstarch with a very little cold water, and turn it into 14 cup of boiling water. Finish the sauce as for ‘‘ Hot Mayonnaise.’’ When done stir in all the following ingredients, very finely chopped: 2 tablespoons parsley, a few taragon leaves, a teaspoon of chives, a tender shallot, a little chervil. If desired,.1 tablespoon of capers may be added, and the same of sour pickles chopped and squeezed dry of all liquid; this gives the ‘‘Remolade Sauce.”’ TARTARE CHANTILLY HOT SAUCE: Served with fish, meat, ‘etc. To 1 cup of hot Tartare Sauce reserved in a pan of PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES, 71 > lukewarm water add and beat in 1/3 cup of whipped cream, adding seasoning to suit taste. TARTARE SAUCE, COLD: ‘ To 1 cup of- mayonnaise add the following, finely chopped: 2 tablespoons parsley,.1 teaspoon each chives and chervil, a tender shallot; if desired, a few taragon leaves, and a few capers, or sour pickles chopped and’ squeezed dry. TARTARE CHANTILLY SAUCE, COLD: To 1 cup of Tartare Sauce, cold, add and beat in 14 cup of whipped cream. TOMATO SAUCE: For meat, croquettes, entrées, ete. 3 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons diced carrots 1 pint of canned tomatves 1 tablespoon green pepper %% teaspoon salt with the seeds removed, Y, teaspoon black pepper or cut in pieces Paprika : Y% onion, chopped A kitchen bouquet 1 shallot, chopped Cook the vegetables 10 minutes in melted butter, over a slow fire, stirring that they take on no color. Blend in the flour, and stirring, add the tomato, bringing it quickly to the boiling point. Add the kitchen bouquet and seasoning, then remove saucepan to a slow’ heat, skimming often as the sauce slowly simmers for 1 hour. Strain, re-heat,, and if sauce is not masking a spoon, _ reduce over a very slow fire. J ; BROWN TOMATO SAUCE: $ Utilized for meat or fish entrée. Add to 1 eup of Tomato Sauce or Purée 1 cup Brown Sauce. FIGARO SAUCE: ' Served with fish, vegetables, ete. Beat into 1 cup of Hollandaise Sauce 1 tablespoon of Tomato Paste; or beat into 1 cup of thick Mayonnaise 14 cup of thick strained Tomato Sauce, as directed above. When making the Tomato Sauce, add to the vegetables , - ES 72 , THE FRENCH CHEF IN in the butter, as they cook, a slice of lean ham cut in dice. ~ GREEN COLORING FOR SAUCES, SOUPS, ETC. : Wash carefully 4 handfuls very green spinach leaves; drain, pound in mortar, and squeeze through a double cheese-cloth, saving the liquor thus obtained in a small saucepan. Slightly heat this, when the green substance will settle at the bottom of pan. Pour off the surface or clear water, and save the green for coloring to use as desired. Unclassified Sauces HORSE-RADISH, PREPARATION OF: Serape the radish in a draught. This will prevent the unpleasant effect on the eyes. Grate fine, and to each % eup add 1 tablespoon of mild vinegar and_1 table- spoon of sugar. Keep tightly sealed. CRANBERRY SAUCE: Served hot or cold with turkey. © Boil, till clear, a syrup made of 114 pints of water and 1 pound or 2 cups of sugar. Add to this, when clear, 1 quart of washed and picked cranberries, bring quickly to a boil, and cook about 15 minutes, or till transparent. r CURRANT MINT JELLY SAUCE: - Served with leg or saddle of mutton. , With a-fork break into pieces 14 cup currant jelly> add 2 tablespoons finely chopped mint leaves and a few drops of lemon juice. pa , HORSE-RADISH SAUCE: Add to 14 cup of finely grated crumbs of stale bread, 3 tablespoons of freshly grated horse-radish, and enough rich milk, or half fresh cream, to keep the mixture thor- oughly moistened while standing an hour in a cold place. Rub through a sieve and add a dash of salt and of _ Sugar, with 2 tablespoons of mild white vinegar; beat t PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 73 a to thorough mix. The finished article should be of the consistency of a very thick cream; if needed, add a little rich milk or cream. THOUSAND ISLAND DRESSING, IV: To a Cream Mayonnaise I, add 34 tablespoon of Taragon Vinegar, a dash of Paprika, and a drop of Tabasco or a few grains of Cayenne, and, all thinly chopped, 1 teaspoon each of chive, chervil and parsley. LOUIS DRESSING, I: To % cup of thick Mayonnaise add %% cup of Chili sauce and a tablespoon of thick, fresh cream; and, thinly chopped, 1 tablespoon each of pimento and green pepper. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 211 ~LOUIS DRESSING, II: Just before serving stir in 34 cup of a thick Mayon- naise, 4% cup of Chili sauce, 4% cup of whipped cream, and 1 tablespoon each of thinly chopped green pepper and pimento. > LOUIS DRESSING, PLAIN: Put in a half-pint fruit jar, 5 tablespoons of oil, 1 tablespoon of Taragon Vinegar, 24 teaspoon of salt, 14 teaspoon.of Paprika, and as much fresh ground black pepper, a few drops of Worcester Sauce, 1 teaspoon of onion. juice, and 3 tablespoons of Chili sauce or catsup. Seal bottle and shake vigorously. Pour over chilled oysters, mussels, shrimps, lobster, crab, ete. MAYONNAISE, I: Rub a bowl with a section of garlic. Mix, in the chilled bowl, 24 teaspoon of salt and a dash of Cayenne. Although not desirable as to flavor, a dash of powdered mustard will be a help in making the Mayonnaise. Add an egg-yolk, and beat, in a circular manner, until thick and creamy. Continue beating, and add slowly a few drops of lemon juice or Taragon Vinegar. When thick, still beating in the same circular manner, add, drop by drop, 1 teaspoon of oil. A large egg-yolk absorbs one cup of oil. Continue to beat while adding very slowly, ‘more oil. When it gets too thick, add % teaspoon of lemon juice or vinegar. Use in all about % of a cup of oil and 114 tablespoons of vinegar. The finished Mayon- naise should be thick enough to hold its shape. When done beat in a tablespoon of boiling water. This will help to keep the Mayonnaise without separating. While making the Mayonnaise, if it curdles, turn it into another bowl, then place an egg-yolk in the bowl, beat until thick and creamy, and, while beating, add slowly the curdled Mayonnaise, then the remaining oil and vinegar, finishing as above.. Two hours before mixing, put all the ingredients entering in the Mayonnaise in the refrigerator to chill. Never keep the oil more than 2 hours in the ice box, else it will get thick and cloudy and will not be fit to make Mayonnaise. \ 212 THE FRENCH CHEF IN MAYONNAISE, II: | Make a Hot Mayonnaise as directed in that recipe, and allow it to cool. This Mayonnaise will keep 3 weeks in a cool place without separating. CREAM MAYONNAISE, I: . dust before serving, gently mix into a cup of Mayon- naise I, 14 cup of whipped cream. Season as needed with salt and a few grains of Cayenne. When it is to be served with fruit, use lemon juice to make the Mayon- naise. Add enough beaten cranberry jelly to nicely color and flavor. Especially nice with grape fruit, white grapes, or a combination salad. CREAM MAYONNAISE, II: . Make a cup of Mayonnaise II. Gently mix in 4 cup of whipped cream. Season with a little salt and a few grains of Cayenne. JELLIED MAYONNAISE, I: Soak 1 teaspoon of gelatine in 2 tablespoons of cold water for 20 minutes, then melt it over hot water. Beat into a cup of Mayonnaise I. Before it hardens spread it. over chilled fish or meat, etc., cut in fancy shapes, or mix in some blanched vegetables or salpicon of meat or fish, these previously marinated in a little French dress- ing; and before it hardens put into tomato cups or artichoke bottoms, ete. JELLIED MAYONNAISE, II: Place 34 of a cup of Mayonnaise in a bowl and chill thoroughly over the ice. Put 1 gill melted aspic or melted jellied Consommé in a bowl in a basin holding ice water. Beat until it begins to thicken. Continue to beat while slowly adding the chilled Mayonnaise, adding a few drops of lemon juice. Use it as directed in preceding recipe. \ ae PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES. 213 GREEN MAYONNAISE: Pound and rub through a fife, strong sieve some of the following herbs: parsley, chervil, chive, watercress, taragon, or blanched spinach, liquor pressed out. Let stand an hour, pour out clear liquor, and stir green sub- stance into a thick Mayonnaise. RED MAYONNAISE: ‘Rub a lobster coral through a fine sieve, add to a Mayonnaise, and use 2% teaspoon of Paprika’ instead of Cayenne when making the Mayonnaise. Or, rub through a sieve a pimento and add to Mayonnaise. JELLIED DRESSING: Utilized to sereen fillets or medallions of fish or meat, -artichoke bottoms, tomatoes, ete.; also to garnish cold entrées or salads. Make a French Dressing with the following ingredi- ents: 14 teaspoon of salt, a few grains of Cayenne, 3 tablespoons of oil, and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. Melt in a bowl over hot water a cup of jellied Consommé, then place in iced water and beat constantly until it begins to thicken. Continue beating while adding slowly the French Dressing, and, as it begins to thicken, cover with it some chilled poached fish, or put over fancy cut pieces or medallions of chicken or fish, artichoke bottoms, ete. Failing jellied Consommé, heat to a boil 1 cup of clear broth or stock, dissolve in a tablespoon of gelatine that has soaked 20 minutes in 14 cup of cold White Stock, let cool, and finish as above. FRUIT DRESSING: Put % cup of water over the fire, add % cup of sugar, stir until dissolved, and boil 2 minutes; then add a little grated lemon rind. While beating 2 egg-yolks in a small saucepan, add slowly the first mixture. Set in hot water, cook and beat until thickened, remove, and beat. while cooling, adding slowly 2 tablespoons of lemon 214 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Juice. Occasionally, a few grains of Cayenne and a dash of dry mustard are added. - Also, with 1 eup or more of whipped cream, fold in just enough of the above cold Fruit Dressing to enable the cream to retain its ornamental texture. _ _All dressing used in Fruit Salad is made with lemon juice. CREAM DRESSING: 2 teaspoons sugar 1 ounce melted butter 1% teaspoon salt 34 cup cream 1% teaspoon dry mustard 3 tablespoons vinegar 2 egg-yolks or whole egg, ! slightly beaten \ Mix dry ingredients, and, constantly stirring, add egg, butter, and cream. Cook, stirring, in double boiler until it thickens, gradually adding the vinegar. Beat while cooling. 1 BOILED DRESSING: 1 teaspoon sugar 2 egg-yolks, slightly beaten 24 teaspoon salt ¥Y% cup water A dash of dry mustard Y cup vinegar “ A few grains of Cayenne 1 ounce butter, cut into bits Mix the ingredients, add beaten egg and liquid, and cook, stirring, in double boiler until it thickens. Remove from the fire, and beat while cooling, adding the butter. PEAR AND APPLE SALAD: Peel the pears and apples, cut in two lengthwise, or quarters, and remove cores. To prevent discoloration, immerse in cold water to which has been added a few drops of lemon juice, and when needed, drain and wipe between towels. Cut into thin slices or dice as desired. Again to prevent discoloration, squeeze over the prepared fruit the juice of half a lemon. Occasionally, when the peeled pears and apples are cut in two lengthwise, the core and center are scooped out.to form cups, which may be filled with a jellied Mayonnaise to which may have been added fruit trimmings diced, diced celery and nuts, or some diced vegetables. All of these are’ added to the 7 PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 215 Mayonnaise before the mixture bécomes firm, and the _whole is then coated with the jellied Mayonnaise. Use lemon juice when making Mayonnaise for fruit. LETTUCE SALAD: _ Arrange some crisp lettuce leaves'in fancy shape on individual salad dishes. Send separately a Freneh Dress- ing; or pour over each dish a tablespoonful of well- blended French Dressing; or serve in a bowl as directed at ‘‘Green Salad,”’ LETTUCE SALAD AND CHEESE DRESSING: Same as Lettuce Salad, using a Cheese Dressing. LETTUCE SALAD AND EGG DRESSING: Separate whites and yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs; finely chop, separately; mix the whites in a bowl with a little chopped parsley, arrange over individual dishes some crisp lettuce leaves in nest shape, and on these thin strips of white and of yolk in a fancy design. Pour over each dish a tablespoon of well-blended French Dressing. : id LETTUCE AND TOMATO SALAD: Same as Lettuce Salad, arranging in lettuce nest some’ balls scooped out of skinned tomatoes. Dredge over top some thinly shredded green peppers. Serve as directed. CUCUMBER SALAD: Peel the cucumbers and slice thin, crosswise. Place in ice water and let stand 1 hour. Drain and wipe between towels. Arrange on crisp lettuce leaves, pour on each dish a tablespoon of well blended French Dress- ing, and serve at once. If desired, dredge over a little chopped parsley and chive. The disagreeable bitter flavor of cucumber being mostly in the green outside, carefully peel all the green parts and cut off the ends at about one inch from the points. Wash and wipe the knife blade occasionally while peeling. . ahs 216 THE FRENCH CHEF IN_ CUCUMBER AND TOMATO SALAD: Peel and thinly slice a cucumber crosswise, soak 1 hour in iced water, drain and wipe between towels. Ar- range over a Tomato and Lettuce Salad, pour a French Dressing I or II over it, and serve at once. CUCUMBER BASKET SALAD: Peel some cucumbers and shape as a basket. Soak 1 hour in iced water, drain, and wipe between towels. Fill with crisp slices of cucumbers, and pour over each ~ one a tablespoon of French Dressing I or II. ge CELERY ROOT SALAD, I: Cook root as directed in ‘‘Boiled Celery Root,’’ add- ing a slice of lemon. Drain and cool. Peel root, cut it into four lengthwise, then thinly slice crosswise. Mar- inate it two hours: in a Mustard Dressing. Serve on crisp lettuce leaves. CELERY ROOT SALAD, II: Prepare celery root as directed above. Mix % tea- spoon of salt, %4 teaspoon of dry mustard, a few grains of Cayenne, 3 cup of cream, and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. Add celery, and mix. ASPARAGUS SALAD: Pile five or six asparagus tips in a erisp lettuce-leaf nest. Send separately a Mayonnaise or a Mustard Dress- ing. Or the asparagus«tips may be arranged in clusters of three or four kept together with rings ‘of. varied color, such as rings of lemon rind, pimentoes, and green or red peppers. ASPARAGUS COMBINATION SALAD: Take some asparagus tips, cut into dice, some string beans, cut into lozenges, and some artichoke bottoms whole, and marinate all in a French Dressing in a cold place. When ready to serve, arrange artichoke bottoms on center of a nest of crisp lettuce leaves. In artichoke PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 217 cavity arrange the diced tips ond around it the beans. Or, add small flowerets of cauliflower, and fill cavity of artichoke bottom with jellied Mayonnaise. The vegetables, of course, are to be blanched before using for salad. ! BEET SALAD: Thinly slice some cold tender cooked or pickled beets. Add 1 teaspoon each of thinly chopped parsley and chive. Mix with 2 or 3 tablespoons of French Dressing I. Ar- range on crisp lettuce leaves. BEET-APPLE SALAD: Cut 2 pickled beets lengthwise into quarters, and thinly slice crosswise. Cut and slice in same shape 2 peeled and cored apples, also 2 hard-boiled eggs. Pour over a French Dressing I or II. BEET-CUP COMBINATION: Seoop out the center of whole pickled beets to form a cup. Thinly chop the removed pulp and reserve. Fill each cup with diced cooked carrots that have been mar- inated in a French dressing, adding to mixture some cold, blanched green peas. Arrange each beet cup in a nest of lettuce leaves, and dredge around it the chopped beets. POTATO SALAD, I: While cold cut 5 boiled potatoes into quarters length- wise, and thinly slice crosswise. Pour over a.’ French Dressing I or II, and add, very thinly chopped, a table- spoon of parsley and green onion. Mix thoroughly, and let stand in a cold place till next day. When needed, taste and season as required. Arrange mixture in lettuce nest. Garnish with pimentoes, beets, green peppers, etc. POTATO SALAD, II: — Prepare and marinate a Potato Salad as in preceding recipe. Mix in 4 cup of Mayonnaise. Pile the mixture 218 THE FRENCH CHEF IN in a nest of crisp lettuce leaves, straighten surface, and spread with Mayonnaise. Dredge over top a few capers. Garnish around with chopped pickled beets, pimentoes, or hard-boiled eggs. POTATO SALAD, III: Thinly slice a few very tender white celery sticks crosswise. Add to any one of preceding Potato Salads. WATER-CRESS SALAD: Arrange over crisp lettuce leaves some picked-over and thoroughly washed, tender, crisp water-cress, freed of its moisture. Dredge over some chopped hard-boiled eggs. Garnish with sections of hard-boiled eggs. If desired, add slices of tomatoes, skins removed. Send separately a French Dressing. STRING BEAN SALAD: To some left-over boiled string beans add a French Dressing I, and, very thinly chopped, a tablespoon of parsley and the white part of a tender green onion, or a teaspoon of onion juice. Mix, and marinate one hour in a cold place. Serve in lettuce leaves. CELERY AND NUT SALAD: Cut some tender white stalks of celery into small dice or thinly slice crosswise, and with some chopped walnuts, ¥Y, of walnuts to 34 of celery, marinate in a little French Dressing. Mix in a bowl with a Mayonnaise. Dress the salad in a nest of crisp lettuce leaves. Garnish with thin strips or figures cut out of pimentoes, beets, or hard- boiled’ eggs. WALDORF SALAD: Peel, quarter, and core one or two apples, and cut into small dice or into thin, short slices. Mix these in a Celery Nut Salad, made with equal quantities of apples and celery. To prevent discoloration of the apples, mix them in the Mayonnaise as soon as they are diced. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 219 TOMATO WALDORF SALAD: Peel medium size, sound, firm, ripe tomatoes, .cut a thin slice at stem end, and carefully scoop out the center and remove seeds. Dredge inside a little salt and drain 30 minutes in a cold place, open side down. Fill the tomato cups thus formed with a Waldorf Salad mixture. Chill. Serve in crisp lettuce nest. Garnish with pimen- toes and tomato balls. STUFFED TOMATO SALAD, I: Prepare the tomatoes as above, fill center with flow- erets of cauliflower, asparagus tips cut into dice, and ’ string beans cut into lozenges, having all thesé vegetables previously marinated in a French Dressing I. Also add to mixture as desired, diced, flaked and marinated, left-over fish, crab, or diced chicken, etc. Then cover with a layer of Mayonnaise or Cold Tartar Chantilly Sauce, or a Boiled Dressing to which capers have been added; or roll the chilled tomato cups in a Jellied Dress- ing. Chill, and when firm fill the cups with the above ingredients mixed in a jellied Mayonnaise and before it thickens, chill. STUFFED TOMATO SALAD, IT: Prepare the tomatoes as above, removing center with a small Parisian scoop knife to obtain tomato ball. Drain tomato as above. Fill tomato cup, with Cucumber Salad, adding tomato balls. Arrange some Mayonnaise over top. Serve in crisp lettuce leaves: CHIFFONADE SALAD, I: Proceed with crisp shredded lettuce leaves or romaine as directed at ‘‘Thousand Island Dressing II.’’ CHIFFONADE SALAD, II: Marinate in a cold place small flowerets of cauliflower, and string beans cut into lozenges, in a Thousand Island Dressing II. When ready to serve mix in some crisp chilled shredded romaine or lettuce leaves. Arrange in 220 ' THE FRENCH CHEF IN a nest of crisp lettuce leaves, and dredge over thinly diced beets. BRUSSELS SPROUTS COMBINATION SALAD: To boiling brussels sprouts add a slice of lemon. Boil as usual until tender to the core, then drain and chill. Wipe between towels, and marinate in a cold place in a French Dressing I. Pile in a nest of crisp lettuce leaves. Combine harmoniously with marinated flowerets of cauliflower, diced asparagus tips, string beans, or artichoke bottoms. STUFFED HARD-BOILED EGG SALAD: Cut shelled hard-boiled éggs in two lengthwise. Re- move the yolk, rub through a sieve, and. add a teaspoon of chopped parsley and a few drops each of onion and lemon juice, and, while stirring, season as needed with salt and pepper. Continue stirring while adding a little olive oil. With these consistent parts fill the whites of eggs and chill. Arrange 2 stuffed halves of eggs on individual dishes in a nest of crisp lettuce leaves, and pour over a tablespoon of French Dressing I or II. An anchovy may be rubbed through sieve at the same time as the egg-yolk, omitting the salt. COTTAGE CHEESE: Set a quart of sweet milk in a bottle in moderately warm water and let stand until blood warm throughout (110° F.); then stir in a pulverized junket tablet and let stand until it sets. Beat with a wire egg-beater to break the curdle, turn in a cheese-cloth placed over a strainer, gather the corners, and hang. Allow the whey to thoroughly drain from curdle. Then place the cheese in a bowl, beat in a teaspoon of thick cream, or, leaving out the cream, turn cheese over a sieve, add a piece of best butter, and rub through the sieve. If desired, add a few grains of salt, a drop of Tabasco, or a little white * pepper. : All pasteurized milk should be treated as above, as, by the pasteurizing process, the lactic acid germs held in raw milk are killed and pasteurized milk requires such PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 221 a long time to sour that it often spoils before souring. When the milk is not pasteurized, let the sweet milk stand in a moderately warm place until it sours, wheys, and sets, which will require a few days. With this proceed as above.. - : Cottage cheese made out of skimmed milk has the sone a value as meat, as it holds all the proteid part of milk. COTTAGE CHEESE SALAD: Shape Cottage Cheese into- small balls between tea- spoons. Drop in crisp lettuce-leaf nest. Chill, When serving pour.on each individual dish a tablespoon of French Dressing I or II. : COTTAGE PIMENTO CHEESE SALAD: Thoroughly drain a canned pimento. Put it in a purée strainer. Add % cup of Cottage Cheese made as above, rub through sieve, and shape and serve. MOLDED COTTAGE CHEESE SALAD: Mix in 1 cup of Cottage Cheese 1 teaspoon of thick cream, a drop of Tabasco, a few grains of salt, and a tablespoon of chopped parsley. Reserve. Squeeze out the liquor of 2 drained canned pimentoes, put them into a purée strainer, add one cup of Cottage Cheese, and rub through sieve. Fill a rectangular mold with ice water. When chilled pour water out, and line bottom and side _of mold with wax paper. Arrange in mold alternate layers of pimento and parsley cheese mixtures, cover with wax paper, and set over ice until needed. Invert on a dish, slice crosswise, arrange slice over crisp lettuce leaves, and send separately a French Dressing I or II. FRUIT SALAD, I: Cut out fancy pieces from sliced pineapple, bananas, oranges, peaches, etc., which reserve for garnishing, eutting the remainder into dice. Mix with a Fruit Dress- ing or a Thousand Island Dressing III, or, if a French Dressing is added, use lemon juice in its making. * *4 222 THE FRENCH CHEF IN FRUIT SALAD, II: Cut into dice 1 grape fruit and 2 navel oranges, re- serving a few nice slices for garnishing. If desired, add a banana cut into dice or half a cup of chopped nuts, or both. Chill. Mix with a Cream‘Mayonnaise or with a Fruit Dressing. Serve on crisp lettuce leaves. FRUIT SALAD, III: Use one banana for each service. Cut in half cross- wise, and then in two lengthwise. Roll.in thinly chopped “ nuts, chill, and serve on crisp lettuce leaves. Pour over each individual dish a tablespoon of Fruit Dressing or Thousand Island Dressing III; or, pour in a cavity of a lettuce leaf on side of dish a tablespoon of Mayonnaise I or II made with Lemon Juice. ORANGE SALAD: =. Peel by cutting through the pulp close to the white substance, as many sour oranges as you have service,” and slice crosswise 14 inch thick leaving out round ends of stem and blossom. Remove seeds. Arrange slices overlapping, in crown shape, in crisp lettuce leaves. Pour over a tablespoon of Fruit Dressing. -If desired, dredge or roll slices in chopped nuts. This salad is nice with a game course. COTTAGE CHEESE AND PEAR SALAD, JELLIED: Peel and cut in two lengthwise 3 sound, firm, ripe Bartlett pears. Remove cores and scoop out centers to form cups. Pour over the juice of a lemon to prevent discoloration, then fill center cavity with Cottage Cheese. Straighten surface to level of pears. Set over center a pimento-cut star; chill thoroughly; then, using a carving fork, dip in a Jellied Dressing made with lemon juice, just before it becomes firm, and set over ice until firm. Serve over crisp lettuce leaves.. APPLE SALAD, JELLIED: Prepare 3 large, firm, ripe, Gravenstein apples as in preceding recipe. Dice the pieces scooped from center, ~ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 223 after removing core. Pour over the juice of half a lemon to prevent discoloration. Chop 8 walnuts and prepare Y% eup of tender, crisp celery, cut into dice. Mix the whole with a Jellied Mayonnaise, made with lemon juice, just before it becomes firm. Fill center cavity of apples. with the mixture to level of apple, then chill, and, when firm, spread all over the apple a Jellied Mayonnaise, made with lemon juice, just before it becomes firm. Set over ice till firm. Serve in crisp lettuce leaves. SPINACH-TONGUE SALAD: Blanch % of a peck of spinach until tender, drain, and press out liquor thoroughly. Season as needed with a little salt, black pepper, and a teaspoon of lemon juice. Pack in small individual timbale molds and chill. Slice some cold boiled pickled tongue or prepare the slices in medallion shape. Chill. Screen with a Jellied May- : onnaise just before it gets firm, and chill again. Unmold the spinach timbale over a cold dish, arrange the tongue around it, and-alternate with crisp lettuce leaves. Spread over each spinach timbale a Green Mayonnaise made with lemon juice. COLD SLAW, IT: Select a small, heavy cabbage. Remove outside leaves, cut into quarters, remove core and tough parts, soak one hour immersed in cold water, adding a tablespoon of salt or vinegar, and drain open side down. Thinly slice crosswise. leave out thick stalk. Place in a cheese-cloth and swing it until thoroughly freed of moisture. Chill. When ready to serve, mix thoroughly with a French Dressing I or II. JELLIED MACEDOINE SALAD: Blanch 1% cups of Macedoine Vegetables. Drain thoroughly and chill; then marinate in a little French Dressing. Delicately stirring, add to a Jellied Mayon- naise just before it begins to get firm. Fill individual moistened timbale molds. Chill till firm. Invert each timbale into a nest of crisp lettuce leaves. ~ 224 THE FRENCH CHEF IN / TOMATO SALAD A LA RUSSE: Prepare 6 sound, firm, ripe tomatoes of an average size as directed at “Tomato Waldorf Salad.’? When thoroughly drained, chill. Fill éach cup with a Jellied Macedoine Salad before it sets. Straighten surface, chill over’ice. When firm, slice the tomatoes crosswise. Ar- range slices over a salad prepared as follows: Thinly slice 2 quartered apples crosswise, cores removed. Slice in same shape 2 cooked potatoes. Mix in a French Dress- ing I, and arrange in crisp lettuce-leaf nest. TOMATO-PEACH SALAD A LA PERSHING: Chill as many firm, middle-sized, sound, ripe tomatoes as you have service. Peel carefully, and using a sharp knife, cut a slice off stem end, then make, at blossom ends, two cuts at right angles, running cuts at about two- thirds of tomato’s thickness. Dredge with salt. Drain, eut side down, in a cold place 30 minutes to let-liquor run out. Have some chilled, firm, ripe freestone peaches peeled, and put on center of a nest of crisp lettuce leaves half of a pitted peach open side down. Put over convex peach a drained tomato, cut side down, and, with thumb and first finger of each hand, press it down on the peach, thus parting the section of tomato like the petals of a flower. From opened center remove seeds and drop just a tablespoon of Cream Mayonnaise I or II. On this arrange, in petal shape, some slices of bananas. At the base arrange a wreath of overlapping banana or peach slices, and, with a pastry bag and star tube, garnish with a Cream Mayonnaise I or II. Add all the ingredients thoroughly chilled, and, if desired, set at base in center of petals a fresh strawberry. SMOKED HERRING SALAD PARISIAN STYLE: Skin and bone 1 or 2 smoked herring. ° Slice the fillet crosswise, very thin. Scrape, wash, and wipe between towels 2 tender red French carrots, and cut lengthwise into quarters and slice crosswise as thin as cigarette paper. Add a few drops of lemon juice, 3 tablespoons of oil, and mix all together. Marinate 4 days in cold’ place. , \ “ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 225 SARDINE SALAD: Remove skins, bones, and tail ends of 6 canned sardines, and slice thinly crosswise. Shell 4 cold hard- boiled eggs, cut in four lengthwise, then thinly slice crosswise. Peel 2 table apples, quarter, remove core, and slice crosswise very thin. Pour over a scant tablespoon of lemon juice, mix, and add 4 tablespoons of oil, 14 teaspoon of onion juice, 44 teaspoon of salt, 2 drops of Tabasco, and 1 tablespoon of parsley chopped fine. FISH SALAD WITH LEFT-OVER: As soon as cooked fish comes back from the table, set it in a cold place to chill. Remove skin and bones, and flake it with a fork. Marinate in a bowl, adding to each cup of fish 214 tablespoons of oil, 1 teaspoon of lemon juice or Taragon Vinegar, 14 teaspoon of: Salt, a dash each of Paprika and black pepper, 14 teaspoon of onion juice, -and 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley. Left-over poached trout marinated as above may be served with any of the Mayonnaise dressings. OYSTER SALAD: > Parboil some oysters. in their own liquor, drain, and - remove tough parts. Cut the smaller oysters in two and the larger ones in four, and chill. When ready to serve mix in Louis Dressing, Plain, Tartar Sauce, or Tartar Chantilly. Serve in lettuce nest and garnish with pimen- tos, capers or slices of lemon. - : GRAPE FRUIT OYSTER SALAD: Cut 3 heavy, sound, ripe grape fruit into half cross- wise, in fancy saw-shape. Carefully remove pulp to obtain a few nicely shaped slices to garnish the filled | grape fruit cup. Cut the remaining pulp into dice. Mix with some parboiled oysters, chilled and cut in pieces, the tough parts removed. Add 6 tablespoons of catsup and 2 drops of Tabasco. Mix, and fill the grape fruit cups. Garnish top with the reserved slice of grape fruit, and chill. Arrange in crisp lettuce-leaf nest. ak 8 226 THE “FRENCH CHEF IN CANTELOUPE SALAD: Cut sound, ripe canteloupe into half, and remove seeds and stringy substance. Scoop out of the meat small balls, arrange on a bed of lettuce leaves, and chill. When ready to serve, pour over each individual dish a table- spoon of French Dressing I, made with lemon juice. WATERMELON SALAD: Same as preceding recipe... CARMELITE SALAD: Quarter 2 cold boiled potatoes, and slice crosswise, thin. Slice into same shape 2 pickled beets and 4 hard- boiled eggs. Add.8 or 4 diced anchovies, 1 teaspoon of onion juicé, and 1 tablespoon of parsley, chopped fine. Mix with a French Dressing I, made without salt. Ar- range on crisp lettuce leaves, and garnish with beets, capers, olives, ete, SHRIMP SALAD: Mix 1 cup of shelled marinated shrimps in about %4 cup mayonnaise, reserving a few nice shrimps for gar- nishing. Season as needed with a few grains of salt and Cayenne. Chill. Arrange on a bed of crisp lettuce _ leaves, garnish top and base with shrimps, fancy pieces of hard-boiled eggs, olives, beets, pimentos, capers, etc. Add to mixture 4% cup of tender, crisp celery stalk, thinly sliced crosswise and previously marinated in a little French ‘dressing. If using canned shrimps, im- merse shrimps a minute in cold water, drain thoroughly, and wipe between towels. é LOBSTER SALAD, I: ‘ Remove the head of a cold cooked lobster. Cut the shell and body in half, lengthwise, discard the intestinal veins, and remove the meat from shell and from big claws. Reserve the small lobster claws for garnishing, also the coral, which should be very thinly chopped. Cut meat into dice and allow it to marinate in a cold place in a little French Dressing until needéd; then mix with wer ae PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 227 any one of the Mayonnaise Dressings. Arrange in crisp lettuce-leaf nest, spread over surface a little of the May- onnaise, sprinkle the chopped coral over top, and, if desired, a few capers; then garnish base with reserved lobster claws, olives, pimentos, ete. Canned lobster should be immersed in plenty of cold water, drained, ‘dried between towels, and chilled. Occasionally the Lobster Salad mixture is served in the Lobster Shell. I LOBSTER SALAD, II, A LA LOUIS: Proceed with cooked lobster as directed at Lobster Salad I, cutting the lobster in rather large pieces. Sub- stitute for the Mayonnaise a Louis Dressing I or II. Dredge the chopped coral over the salad, arranged on crisp lettuce leaves, garnish with the reserved claws, and, if. desired, with figures cut out of pimentos, rings of green peppers, or slices of stuffed olives. LOBSTER SALAD, III, A LA LOUIS: Chill a cooked lobster, remove meat from shell, cut body meat into slices and discard intestinal veins, and reserve claws to use as garnishing, also the coral chopped.: Marinate the lobster meat in a cold place in a Louis Dressing Plain made with Taragon Vinegar. Remove outside leaves of 1 or 2 white, firm, lettuce -hearts, slice, and soak in cold water. Drain. Place lettuce leaves in a cheese-cloth, swing it until freed of moisture, divide the lettuce between 6 individual salad dishes, and chill. When ready to serve, dredge over lettuce 3 chopped pimentos and the coral, then divide the marinated lobster between the 6 dishes, garnish with claws and sliced stuffed olives, and serve at once. LOBSTER SALAD WITH ARTICHOKE BOT- TOMS A LA LOUIS: For each service arrange on a cold dish a ae blanched artichoke bottom coated with a Jellied Dress! ing. Arrange in artichoke cavity a Lobster Salad IT’ ¥ la Louis. Mask the whole with a Louis I or IT dressing, = N 228 THE FRENCH CHEF IN and arrange around it the chilled blanched leaves of artichokes or crisp lettuce leaves. Garnish around the base with lobster claws, figures cut out of pimentos and green peppers, and dredge the chopped coral over top. CRAB SALAD: Follow any of the above directions. given for Lobster or Shrimp Salads, using crab meat. GLADYS SALAD: For 6 services cut in half crosswise 3 chilled, sound, ripe canteloupes, removing the seeds and stringy sub- stance. Cut the edges of each half-melon like the teeth of a large saw blade. Using a sharp knife, peel a heavy, sound, ripe, large grape fruit, cutting through pulp with the knife, following close to and under the white stih- stance, and peeling off the white substance and the rind. Cut the grape fruit lengthwise into quarters and thinly slice each quarter crosswise to obtain 3 or 4 slices for each service, which reserve to use as garnishing. Cut the remainder into dice. Scoop out the pulp of the melons and cut,into dice. Mix diced melon and grape fruit with one cup of raspberries, adding bar sugar to suit taste. Fill each melon cup with the mixture, garnish top with reserved slice of grape fruit and a few reserved. raspberries. Chill. Serve over cracked ice or green leaves. DOROTHY SALAD: Prepare melon as above and cut pulp into dice. Peel and quarter, and remove core, and thinly slice a table apple crosswise. Pour over the juice of a half-lemon, and add, thinly sliced crosswise, 1 banana, 3 peeled peaches, 1 slice of pineapple, 12 raspberries, 12 loganberries, and 24 strawberries. Sweeten as needed with powdered sugar. Mix carefully, then fill melon cups, garnish top with fancy slice of pineapple, bananas, and some nice reserved strawberries, and chill. Serve over cracked ice or on lettuce leaves. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 229 _ ALLIGATOR PEAR SALAD: . Chill Some sound, firm, ripe alligator pears, split lengthwise into halves, and remove stones. Neatly scrape off the stringy substance, and rub pulp ‘surface with a slice of lemon. Pour aver inside pulp a teaspoon of French Dressing I. Serve at once over cracked ice. sSend separately a French Dressing. When the alligator pears are large or expensive, scoop out with a teaspoon small olive-shaped balls, and ar- range over crisp lettuce leaves on individual dishes; pour over each a tablespoon French Dressing I, and serve at once. Occasionally chilled alligator pear cavities pre- pared as above are filled with paté-de-foie-gras rubbed through a sieve, to which a little whipped cream may be added. CHICKEN SALAD: ‘Cut into small dice the white meat of some cold chicken or turkey, skin, fat, gristle, and tough parts removed. Add half as much crisp, tender stalks of’ celery, diced. Marinate these in a little French Dressing in a cold place until needed, then mix thoroughly with a Mayonnaise. Season as needed with a few grains of salt and white pepper. Pile mixture high in center on a bed of crisp lettuce leaves; spread over surface a little Mayonnaise, garnish base with beets, olives, fancy cut -pieces of hard-boiled eggs, pimentos, ete., and dredge over top chopped hard-boiled eggs and a few capers. VEAL SALAD: Same as Chicken Salad. CHICKEN COMBINATION SALAD: To a Chicken Salad add the following ingredients, diced: walnuts, apples, hard-boiled eggs, pimentos, ete. CHICKEN CREOLE SALAD: To a Chicken Salad or Chicken Combination Salad add the pulp of a grape fruit cut into small dice, re- serving a few fancy cut slices for garnishing. —_ 230 - THE FRENCH CHEF IN QUAIL SALAD: Chill cooked quail left-over. Take up the fillets, re- moving skin and tough parts. Slice thin, add a fourth - as much lean, chilled boiled ham, cut thin, also, cut up thin, a sour pickle and 4 stoned olives, and, thinly chopped, 1 teaspoon each of parsley and chive, or sub- stitute for the chive 1% teaspoon of onion juice. If available, add a few chopped taragon leaves and a tea- spoon of chervil. Mix all together while marinating the mixture in a French Dressing I in a cold place. Season to suit taste, with salt and white pepper. Serve in crisp. lettuce-leaf nest; garnish with sliced pickles, ~ stuffed olives, pimentos, ete. SWEETBREAD AND CELERY SALAD: ‘Cut into small dice some cold cooked sweetbreads, and. add half as much diced celery. Marinate in a cold place in a French Dressing I until needed. Mix with any one ‘of the Mayonnaise Dressings, pile in center of a nest of erisp lettuce leaves, and garnish with slices of sweetbreads coated with a Jellied Mayonnaise or Dressing (see recipes). TOMATO JELLIED SALAD: Soak 34 of an envelope of granulated gelatine 20 minutes in 14 cup of cold water. Simmer for half an hour 114 cups of White Stock, adding 114 cups of canned tomatoes, a few grains of Cayenne, and 14 teaspoon of salt, a kitchen bouquet, and a small onion. Rub mixture through a fine sieve that will hold back the seeds, re- moving onion and bouquet. Re-heat to a boil, remove from fire, dissolve thoroughly in the gelatine, add a tablespoon of lemon juice, and strain. Pour into a wet mold and put aside in a cold place until set. Unmold on a bed of crisp lettuce leaves, and garnish around bas with Mayonnaise and Tomato Jelly Crouton. If the White Stock is not on hand, use water, and dissolve a bouillon cube in the strained mixture. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 23 | Jellied and Aspic Croutons and Their Shaping Jellied and Meat: Aspics, or Tomato Jelly in various shapes, are used to garnish’a service of salad or cold chicken, turkey, tongue, etc. The prepared cooling- mixture is turned into a wet dish to the depth required, usually 24 of an inch, and set aside in a cold place to form. When needed dip the dish into warm water, let- ting the water rise to same height outside as jelly inside, then lift out, wipe bottom of dish with a cloth, and invert the jellied article onto wax paper. Cut into desired shape with a knife dipped in warm water, then wipe dry; or use fancy cutter to stamp out croutons. These crou- tons are usually made more consistent than other jellied articles, by using more gelatine. QUICK ASPIC: Put a scant pint of cold water over the fire, add, thinly sliced, 1 carrot, 1 onion, and a white stalk of celery, a parsley root, a sprig of thyme, a clove, 6 pepper- corns, and 4% teaspoon salt. Simmer 40 minutes. Strain, re- heat to a boil, add 2 bouillon cubes or a teaspoon of meat extract, remove from fire, and dissolve in half an envelope or f tablespoon of granulated gelatine that has soaked 20 minutes in 3 tablespoons of cold water. Add a teaspoon of lemon juice and strain. ASPARAGUS TIPS JELLIED SALAD: Pour a little Tomato Jelly cooled, but not set, into sma!l iced individual timbale molds arranged in cracked ice. Tip to spread jelly mixture over side and bottom of molds. Let stand until firm, repeat until the molds are coated with the jellied mixture, then arrange at bottom some chilled asparagus, heads downwards, filling in around the side of mold with tips. Pour in enough jellying tomato mixture to cover asparagus. Let stand till firm. Unmold, inverting jellied mixture over crisp lettuce leaves, and garnish, around ne base with Mayon- naise. ASPARAGUS TIPS MAYONNAISE TIMBALE: Put individual molds in cracked ice. Screen the chilled mold bottom and sides with a cooling Tomato 232 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Jelly, as in preceding recipe, then, using a Jellied May- onnaise I or II, just before it begins to set cover bottom and sides of mold with a thin layer of Mayonnaise. Let stand until firm. Fill center with asparagus tips and. pour in just enough of the Mayonnaise to cover tops of tips. Straighten surface and add cooling aspic to fill mold. Let stand till firm. Unmold over crisp lettuce leaves, and garnish around base with beet figures or with Jellied or Aspic Croutons. CAULIFLOWER MAYONNAISE TIMBALE SALAD: Blanch a cauliflower with a slice of lemon till tender, drain, and chill. Break off flowerets, cutting off stems when too long, proceed as directed in above recipe, and serve the same way. : Other vegetables may be substituted for the cauli- flower, such as string beans, brussels sprouts, artichoke bottoms, etc.; or use the same vegetables in combination in the same timbale. MACEDOINE MOLDED SALAD: _ Pour a little Tomato Jelly or ‘‘Quick Aspic,’’ cooled, but not set, into some iced individual timbale molds arranged in cracked ice. Tip the mold to spread jelly mixture over the side and bottom of molds. Let stand until firm, and repeat until the molds are coated with the jellied mixtyre. Mix 1% cups of chilled Macedoine Vegetables (see recipe) in a cup of Jellied Mayonnaise I or Il, just before it begins to thicken. Season as needed with a few drops of lemon juice, a few grains of salt and white pepper, and with it fill centers of molds. Straighten surface, pour in enough cooling aspie to fill” mold and let stand until firm. Unmold onto a bed of crisp lettuce leaves, garnish around base with Mayonnaise and bottom of dish with Aspie or Jellied Croutons. EGGS IN ASPIC: Have ready a cooling Aspic or a Tomato Jelly, and, just before it begins to set, pour a little of it into some ’ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES — 233" ji chilled individual molds set in eracked ice. Tip so as to coat bottom and side surface of molds. When firm, repeat, and arrange in mold some chilled slices of hard- boiled eggs. Garnish with the small, tender leaves of the center of a lettuce-heart, or with thin slices of an artichoke bottom. Add the cooling Aspic to cover. When firm repeat layers of hard-boiled eggs, vegetables and Aspic until timbale mold is full. Unmold firm chilled timbale over a bed of crisp lettuce leaves, and garnish with Mayonnaise, sections of hard-boiled eggs, pimentos, beets, curled celery, etc. FISH SALAD IN ASPIC: Soak half an envelope or a tablespoon of granulated gelatine 20 minutes in 14 cup cold water. Dissolve the gelatine in 34 cup of heated Fish Consommé. Strain into a bowl, then place over cracked ice. As soon as it begins to thicken, beat until frothy, then incorporate in it 34 eup of chilled cream beaten to a stiff dry froth, and about a cup of chilled poached salmon or trout cut into small dice, bones and skins removed. Season as needed, -adding a little lemon juice. Arrange mixture into wet, chilled border mold, and set aside to chill, When firm unmold over a bed i erisp lettuce leaves, and garnish with lemon ‘slices, capers, pimentos, pickles, beets, pars- ley, ete. Serve with Mayonnaise. CHICKEN AND OYSTER SALAD IN ASPIC: Parboil a dozen and a half oysters as usual, drain and wipe between towels, and chill. Dredge over a few drops -of lemon juice, and cut into pieces. With a cooling Tomato Jelly screen bottom and sides of 6 small indi- vidual timbale molds placed in broken ice. When firm prepare a Chicken Celery Salad as directed in recipe, mixing it with a Jellied Mayonnaise. Just before it -.. begins to set mix with the oysters, and with this mixture fill the mold, straighten surface, and pour on top a little Tomato Jelly near setting. “When chilled, unmold on a bed of crisp lettuce leaves. - , 234 THE FRENCH CHEF IN \ MARGUERITE SALAD (for Buffet Party or Luncheon): Prepare Chicken Celery Salad with a 4-pound tender boiled chicken and 114 cups of tender crisp, bleached celery. Arrange on a large cold dish, screen with May- onnaise, and garnish the dish border with crisp lettuce leaves and artichoke bottoms prepared as follows: Chill as many blanched artichoke bottoms as you have guests. Roll each one in a Jellied Dressing (see recipe) near setting, and chill. When firm repeat the same process and when firm again, arrange in each bot- tom cavity some chilled asparagus tips or cauliflower flowerets; screen the asparagus or cauliflower with a Jellied Mayonnaise near setting, filling also each bottom cavity with the Mayonnaise; chill until firm. Cut small figures out of white and yolk of a chilled hard-boiled egg, pimento, etc; then, taking them one by one at the point of a trussing needle, dip in the Jellied Dressing when near setting; then set into place around the artichoke filled cavity and chill. Use one kind of each figure to garnish each artichoke bottom. Garnish chicken salad with remaining figures. f PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 235 CHAPTER IX COLD ENTREES Motpep Asptics, JELLIED Mrats, CHAUDFROIDS, Moussss, Ec. ee this branch of the culinary art the experienced cook has the opportunity to strive for excellence. Such elaborate dishes as ‘‘Piéce-Montée’’ Aspies, ete., require much preparation, long manipulation, great skill, good taste and inventiveness; all of which delight the progres- sive cook and yield him pride and gratification. Harmony in form and color mark these dishes, and the care ex- pended to bring about artistic and decorative results will be amply rewarded. The aspics used in Aspic dishes should always be savory, clear, and amber-colored, and made as directed at ‘‘Meat Aspic’’; although owing to the high cost, of meat, a substitute is often used made by jellying Con- sommé or a clarified stock jellied with gelatine (see ‘Quick Aspic’’). One envelope or 2 tablespoons of gran- ulated gelatine will jelly a quart of stock, less the amount of liquor used to soak the gelatine. When veal or chicken, or both, are used in making the stock, it does not require so much gelatine to jelly it, as veal and chicken meat and bones already hold some jellying substance that dissolves _in the simmering stock. For instance, a calf’s foot will jelly one quart of stock (see ‘‘Glaze’’). Ornamentation of Molded Aspic To ornament a Molded Aspic, thoroughly chill the molds in broken ice, except when, in cold weather, you can put the mold in chilled water and work in a cool place. Pour into a large mold about 4% cup of cooling Aspic or jellied stock just before it begins to set but is still liquid. For small individual molds pour in only “2 or 8 tablespoons. Turn and tip the mold around to spread the jellying article all over bottom and sides of 236 THE FRENCH CHEF IN mold, let stand till firm, and then repeat the same paces until side and bottom of mold are screened with jellied aspic, and again let stand until firm. The articles used to ornament Aspies should be thor- oughly chilled, and the vegetables should be blanched.. Using small fancy cutters in the shape of hearts, flowers, circles, stars, spades, diamonds, etc., stamp out designs from carrots, truffles, artichoke bottoms, hard-boiled eggs, olives, sour pickles, or pimentos; or utilize string beans cut into lozenges, and green peas, capers, and small cauli- flower flowerets. Then, using a trussing needle point, take up piece by piece the prepared decorations, and dip one at a time in the jellying aspic near setting point but while still liquid. Fix these on bottom of the mold and drop from a teaspoon about 2 drops of cooling aspic on each piece. When the bottom is thoroughly and tastefully decorated, add cooling aspic, just enough to cover; then decorate the sides of mold by arranging the garnishing artistically over sides. Drop on each fixed. piece of garnishing 2 drops of cooling aspic and allow it to stand in iced water until firm. Then proceed to fill mold as required. It is desirable, when stamping, to use only one cutter for any one kind of vegetable or other article, and to alternate the decorative pee as to size, shape, and color. To unmold Aspic or jellied dishes, dip mold in warm water, at about 110° F. or just hot enough to melt aspic - nearest to side of mold after it has stood 15 seconds m the water, letting the water rise as high outside as jelly - fills inside; then lift it out, wipe mold, tip it around to . see if the jelly is freed of mold, put the cold serving dish upside down, center of dish just over center of mold, and gently invert and lift off the mold. CHAUDFROIDS and their Decoration with Aspic: ‘When an article, such as cooked chicken, veal, tongue, ete., which has been chilled, is coated, masked, or screened with a Chaudfroid Sauce, it is said to be a ‘*Chaudfroid.’’ These articles are occasionally sliced and shaped in medallion form, to be utilized as a garnish to another PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 237 Chaudfroid,_Aspic, or Salad. .To make Chaudfroid pro- ceed as follows: Chill the article. Have ready a cold Chaudfroid Sauce (see recipe) near jellying point, or just at the right point of cooling, that is, so it will make the sauce nearest to the chilled article over which it is spread firm enough to stick to it at once and form a smooth coating. The Chaudfroid sauce should be smooth and still be stiff enough to very slowly run. Coat the chilled article with the sauee, filling any hollow part that the surface may present or offer. Set it in refrigerator until firm, ne the articles apart so they do not touch each other. Occasionally a second coating is given to articles not _perfectly screened with one coating of sauce. Often, tiny _bits or very small figures cut out of the chilled articles are arranged oyer the coating of Chaudfroid Sauce, and a coating of jellying Aspic is then spread over the whole to entirely screen the garnishing ingredients. Then set in a cold place till firm. Cuf tiny figures out of very thinly sliced articles, such as truffle, olive, white or yolk of hard-boiled eggs, etc., or use bits of parsley, lettuce leaves, water-cress, taragon leaves, etc., and again set it in a cold place until firm. “ ASPIC OR MEAT JELLY: Place in a kettle 2 split calves’ feet and 2 pounds each of lean beef and knuckles of veal cut into pieces. Add the bones of a shin of beef cut in pieces, reservin: the meat to use to clarify the stock. If available add also calf and beef bones or a pig’s foot, also necks, gizzards, skinned feet, and carcass of fowl. To these-add_cold -water to cover and a tablespoon of salt: Bring slowly to a boil, and skim. Then remove it to a very slow fire where it will simmer very slowly 6 or.7 hours, adding a large kitchen bouquet, an onion, 2 carrots, and 12 pepper- corns. When done strain it through a fine sieve and set it, aside to cool. When cold remove fat on top. Cut into very small dice the reserved lean shin meat, removing gristle, fat, x 238 THE FRENCH CHEF IN v and skin. Add 2 thinly sliced carrots and onions, put in a saucepan, add 3 egg-whites, and proceed as directed in the article: ‘‘ Clarification of Stock, Second Method.”’ Add a tablespoon of lemon juice, and strain through cheese-cloth. MOUSSE COLD ENTREES: Mousse Cold Entrées are generally made of a given proportion of fish, meat, or vegetable pulp, stiffened by the addition of dissolved gelatine, and these mixtures are usually made bulkier and lighter with a cream half- beaten or beaten to a froth. However, to insure firmness, or to make the article lighter and still hold its shape, the ‘eream is often beaten to a stiff, dry froth. Much care should be exercised in the preparation of these dishes not to use too much gelatine, as they are stiff enough when they just hold their shape. When too firm, they are not so palatable nor so succulent. Occasionally the meat, fish, or vegetable pulp is com- bined with a cooling Chaudfroid sauce or Aspic, or both, when it is lightened by combining it with a cream beaten stiff-dry to bottom of bowl. CALF’S BRAIN IN MAYONNAISE: Boil ealf’s brains as directed at ‘‘Boiled Calf’s Brains,’’ and let cool in their own liquor. Drain thor- oughly, wipe between towels, and chill. Neatly slice ° lengthwise about two-thirds of an inch thick, and arrange slices, overlapping, on a cold dish. Mask with a Mayon- naise Dressing. Garnish with a wreath of parsley and crisp lettuce leaves, and with hard-boiled eggs, capers, ete. SWEETBREADS IN MAYONNAISE: Prepare and parboil two sets of sweetbreads as di- rected at ‘‘Preparation of Sweetbreads for Cooking,’’ ete. Drain, cold, between two dishes to shape. Wipe between towels. Simmer a few minutes in 3 tablespoons of melted butter over a slow fire. Turn over as needed to prevent coloring. Remove sweetbreads, and blend 3 tablespoons flour in the butter left in pan. Remove pan PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 239 to a good fire and, while stirring or beating constantly with a spatula or with a whisk, at once add gradually about 34 quart of boiling White Stock. Stir until smooth -. and boiling. Add the sweetbreads, an onion, and a kitchen bouquet, and, when again boiling, remove to a slow fire where it will simmer 1 hour or until tender, adding a teaspoon of lemon juice and salt as needed. Drain, chill, and wipe between towels. Split each sweetbread, arrange, overlapping in wreath shape, on a cold dish, mask with a Mayonnaise, set in center a crisp center of lettuce-heart and garnish with a wreath of parsley and lettuce leaves. SWEETBREAD ASPIC: Soak 2 or 3 sets of sweetbreads 2 hours. Drain, and. remove inedible parts. Bring to a boil 3 cups of Con- sommé, add the sweetbreads, and, when boiling again, remove to a slow fire. Skim and simmer nearly an hour or until tender, adding a teaspoon of lemon juice. Drain, chill sweetbreads, and re-heat the liquor freed of grease. Soak 20 minutes, in 14 cup of cold water, 114 tablespoons of granulated gelatine. Dilute in the hot liquor, strain, and let cool nearly to jellying point, then coat inside surface of small, chilled fancy boat or shell mold, or, if these are not on hand, use ordinary timbale. Let stand till firm, and repeat process if needed to coat it with the jellying Consommé. When firm lay over bottom’ of mold some slices of chilled sweetbreads to about 14 inch from mold’s side. Add jellying Consommé to cover, gently pouring in, and let stand in a cold place until firm. Repeat the same process, finishing so as to fill mold with jellying Consommé to entirely screen meat. Set aside until firm. Unmold on a cold dish, and around it ar- range a wreath of crisp lettuce leaves and parsley, gar- nishing with Aspic Croutons. TONGUE ECARLATE IN ASPIC: Boil a pickled Calf’s Tongue until tender, and drain. Immerse in cold water, remove skin and root bone, shape neatly, wipe between towels, and chill. Put in a basin and set the basin in iced water so that it will float. 240 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Baste the tongue with a cooling aspic near setting. When the screening is firm, repeat until the tongue is entirely coated with Aspic. ‘When firm, arrange on a cold dish surrounded with Aspic Croutons or some of the chopped Aspic. Around it arrange a wreath of parsley and let- tuce. CHICKEN OR TONGUE MEDALLION ASPIC CHAUDFROID: Used for the garnishing of cold entrées or salads. While cold, neatly slice the white meat of a left-over roasted chicken or boiled pickled calf’s tongue, ete. Cut with an oblong cutter, and chill. Coat with a cooling Chaudfroid Sauce as directed in ‘‘How to Prepare Chaudfroid,’’ etc., and when firm screen ome a cooling Aspie. Let stand until firm. CHICKEN CHAUDFROID: « Clean and truss two squab chickens. Rub with a lemon slice, wrap over breast thin slices of lard-pork, arrange in a kettle over a bed of ham trimmings with 2 each, sliced carrots and onions. Add the giblets par- boiled and hot Chicken Consommé or stock to just cover the birds; if available include as a part of the liquid a little white wine. Bring quickly to a bubble, add.a kitchen bouquet, cover and remove the kettle to a slow fire. Simmer about 30 minutes or till tender, turning the chicken over once. Remove the kettle from the fire and let stand in its own liquor until nearly cooled before draining, then drain and chill. Neatly take up the fillets, and cut them in even pieces. Separate other pieces from joint. Dip the chilled pieces one by one in a cooling Chaudfroid Sauce near setting, and place each piece on a chilled dish, separating one from another. Set over ice until firm. Pile in rock shape over a cold dish. Arrange around base a wreath of parsley and crisp lettuce leaves. Left-over cooked chicken cut into nice, shapely pieces may be used in the same manner, and the liquor in which the chicken has been cooked may be used to make the Chaudfroid Sauce. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 241 CHICKEN CHAUDFROID A LA PARISIENNE: Cook about an hour, or until tender, a 814 or 4 pound plump, tender chicken as above’; drain and chill. Rub a Paté-de-Foie-Gras through a sieve. In this pulp mix 3 tablespoons of cooling Aspic, and 24 cup of whipped cream; season with salt and a few grains of Cayenne, and with the mixture stuff the chicken. Neatly slice the fillets and replace the slices as they were before- carving, and chill. Coat the chicken’s entire surface with a cooling Chaudfroid Sauce near setting. When firm. . decorate the chicken_breast with figures cut out of sliced truffle or, use tiny, crisp water-cress leaves, then screen entire surface of chicken with a cooling Aspic near set- ting point. Chill till firm. Place the chicken on center of a cold dish, and arrange around it some slices of ~ Tomato Salad 4 la Russe and some Aspic Croutons. Garnish with crisp lettuce leaves and parsley. = SWEETBREAD, TRUFFLE, CALF’S BRAIN, AND TONGUE.-ASPIC: Blanch until tender one set of calf’s brains as di- rected at ‘‘Boiled Calf’s Brains.’’ Let cool in its own” liquor and drain. Have ready two sets of sweetbreads, boiled as at ‘‘Sweetbreads in Mayonnaise,’’ a boiled pickled veal tongue, and two truffles. Chill these and wipe between towels. Cut enough slices to stamp out ~ figures to ornament bottom and sides of mold with alter-_ nate slices of sweetbread, truffle, brain, and tongue, and reserve the remaining smaller pieces to fill center. To ornament mold, consult ‘‘Ornamentation of Molded _ Aspic.’? The mold must be continually in-broken ice. When the bottom and side of mold is coated with Aspic, ornamented, and firm, pour in Aspic to cover. bottom ¥ inch thick, and chill till firm. Arrange at bottom on this firm Aspic a layer of the sweetbread pieces. Add cooling Aspic to cover. Let stand until firm, then ar- range over it a thin layer of truffle. Add cooling Aspic to cover, and when firm continue to fill mold as before with alternate layers of brains, tongue, etc., varying them as to color. z 242 THE FRENCH CHEF IN The sweetbreads may be cooked in hot Consommé and the strained liquor, with soaked gelatine added, may be used as Aspic. ‘CHICKEN IN ASPIC: Chill chicken cooked as directed at ‘‘Chicken Chaud- froid 4 la Parisienne,’’ a boiled pickled tongue, and two truffles, and with them and aspic proceed as.directed in recipe above. For truffle, pimentos, hard-boiled eggs, or figures cut out of stoned olives may be substituted, and the liquor in which the chicken has. been cooked may be used to make a Quick Aspic. FILLETS OF CHICKEN IN ASPIC: Have ready a 314-pounds tender, plump chicken cooked as directed at ‘‘ Chicken 4 la Parisienne.’’ Drain, and while the chicken is still a little warm, using a sharp, flexible, pointed knife, take up the fillets, letting the knife . follow closely to the bone, and taking care not to tear or allow the under fillet to separate from the larger one. Remove skin and put into shape between two dishes, dredging over meat a little salt and white pepper, and a few drops of lemon juice. Set a small weight on top of dish and Jet chill in a cool place, then cut each large fillet into 4 pieces of even size and shape, running the knife diagonally at an angle of 45 degrees. ‘Cover or screen bottom and sides of a chilled round mold, having a tub in center, and placed in ice, with a cooling Aspic. near setting. When firm decorate bottom and sides with figures cut out of either sliced ham, tongue, truffle, or pimentos, and again screen with cooling Aspic to cover decorative article. When firm add cooling Aspic to cover bottom of mold 14 inch deep. Let stand until firm, then arrange the chicken pieces overlapping. Add Aspic to comfortably cover the chicken. Chill till firm. ‘Unmold over a cold dish, garnish around base with a wreath of crisp lettuce leaves, and send separately a Mayonnaise. A Quick Aspic may be made with the stock in which the chicken has been cooked. PRIVATE “AMERICAN FAMILIES 243 HAM MOUSSE: Force through the meat chopper 8 ounces of cold, lean, boiled ham, skin and, gristle removed. Rub the ham and 4 cup of best butter through a purée strainer. To this pulp add 2 tablespoons of cooling Chaudfroid Sauce, 2 * tablespoons of cooling Aspic near setting, and 38 table- spoons of very thick cream. Mix thoroughly, adding 4 cup of chilled pastry cream beaten to a stiff, dry froth. Season rather highly with a few grains of Cayenne. Coat or screen the bottom and sides of 6 small chilled individual timbale molds with a cooling Aspic near set- ting, the timbales placed in broken ice. When. firm orfament the timbales with figures cut out of pimentos aand whites and yolks of sliced hard-boiled eggs, as di- rected at ‘‘Ornamentation of Molded Aspic.’’ Cover and sereen with a cooling Aspic. When firm fill the molds with the ham and whipped-cream mixture. Straighten surface, pour cooling Aspic to mask the filling, let stand till firm, unmold over crisp lettuce leaves, and garnish with Aspic Croutons. ie CHICKEN MOUSSE A LA PARISIENNE: Prepare and cook a chicken as directed at ‘‘Chicken Chaudfroid a4 la Parisienne,’’ using as liquid 3 pints of boiling rich Chicken Consommé and a glass of Madeira wine. Drain and chill. Neatly scrape all the tender chicken meat from bone, and remove skin and gristle. Cut into pieces, pound in a mortar, adding 3 ounces of, butter, then rub through a purée strainer. With this pulp mix 1% cup of thick cream and 1% cup of chilled pastry’ cream, whipped stiff-dry to bottom of bowl. Season as needed with a little salt and highly with a few grains of Cayenne. Make a Ham Mousse as directed in preceding article, adding to this 2 tablespoons of thick Tomato Purée. Season as needed with Paprika and color with a little carmine. Place in broken ice 1 large and -6 small individual timbale molds. Cover or screen the bottom and sides of molds with a cooling Aspic near set- ting. When firm proceed as directed in recipe above. Ornament bottoms and sides of molds with figures cut 244 THE FRENCH CHEF IN out of sliced truffle, and cover and screen with cooling Aspic. When firm arrange over sides and- bottoms of molds a layer of the Chicken Mousse mixture above, leav- ing in center an open space to introduce some Ham Mousse. Straighten surface, pour over cooling Aspic to _comfortably cover, and let chill until firm. Cook 1 cup of hominy grits as directed at ‘‘Hom- iny Croustade.’’ When done turn into a wet, shallow round dish, in a layer about an inch thick. Let stand until cold and firm. Invert on center of a large, cold serving dish, chill over ice, then cover or screen with a cooling Chaudfroid Sauce for fowl, near setting. Set over ice until firm, then unmold large:timbale over center of the Hominy Socle, unmold the smaller timbales around its base, and ornament with parsley, Aspic Croutons, pimentos, and truffle stars. Use liquor in which the chicken has been cooked, to make a Quick Aspic. BONED TURKEY IN ASPIC: Clean, singe, wash, and wipe a tender, 8-pound turkey. Bone as directed at ‘‘Boning of Birds and Fowl.”’ Spread the boned turkey squarely over a board, skin downwards. Equalize the thickness of the meat on the skin by cutting slices from thickest part of legs and breast and laying these on the thinner parts of the turkey, reserving some long, -thick, narrow slices of the meat. Sprinkle over a little salt and fresh-ground black pepper. ‘Place the reserved thick slices ina bowl, adding some long slices of choice lean ham, pickled tongue, and lard- pork. Add a cup of sherry and marinate in a cold _ place. Cut into small pieces 1 pound of lean round of veal, the trimmings of ham, lard-pork, and tongue, gristle, fat, and skin removed, also the washed turkey liver. Season as needed rather highly with fresh-ground black pepper, a few grains of Cayenne, and a little nutmeg, then pound in a mortar and rub through a sieve, adding a beaten egg. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 245 Spread a layer of this forcemeat over the turkey, and, while alternating the material as to color, arrange over it the thick slices of marinated ham, turkey, tongue, and lard-pork, each: slice separate from the others. Spread over this a layer of forcemeat, then repeat with marinated slices of meat and forcemeat as above, gradu- ally piling in center in order that the turkey may be rolled in an evenly thick, firm, round shape. Sew the skin on the back, roll in a strong cloth, and, using strong string or cord, tightly fasten the ends also in center in several places. Place the boned turkey in a kettle and add the remaining trimming of lard-pork, veal, ham, and tongue, the giblets, carcass, and skinned feet of the tur- key, 2 split calf’s feet, a large kitchen bouquet, 3 cloves inserted in an onion, 10 pepper-corns, 1 tablespoon of salt, and if available, a glass of white wine and the sherry used to marinate. Add boiling White Stock to cover, bring to a boil, skim, and cook slowly, simmering, 4 hours. When done remove kettle. When nearly cold drain the boned turkey, arrange between two dishes, put over top dish a weight, and set in a cold place to chill. Carefully remove string and cloth, and chill the boned turkey on a dish. Strain the liquor, free it of fat, allow it to reduce very slowly on the back, of the stove, remove and let cool. Before it jellies, use 2 egg-whites to clarify it as directed at ‘‘ Aspie,’’ strain through a double cheesé-cloth, adding a little lemon juice, and when cool, still liquid at néarly setting point, and brush the chilled boned turkey with it. When firm repeat until fairly sereened with Aspic. If the.ealf’s feet are not used in the mixture, dissolve in the clarified strained liquor the usual proportion of soaked gelatine required to jelly it. JELLIED TROUT: : Poach a nice, large, fresh trout | in a Court-Bouillon until tender, as "directed in ‘To Boil or Poach Fish.” Let cool in its own liquor. Gently lift fish, drain and chill. Carefully remove the skin on back, and baste or brush fish with a cooling Aspie near, setting. Let stand in cold place until firm. Repeat till surface is screened 246° THE FRENCH CHEF IN with Aspic. When firm carefully remove the fish to center of a chilled socle of rice previously screened with Aspic; then, taking on the point of a trussing needle one by one some nice shelled crimson shrimps, dip these in a cooling Aspic. Arrange symmetrically over back of fish, and let fall two drops of Aspic on each fixed shrimp ; then place around the fish, alternately, some chilled small tomato cups and cucumber baskets filled with a Jellied Macedoine Salad (see recipe). Arrange around border some Tomato or Aspic Croutons. If Aspic Croutons are used, color the crouton liquor rosy-pink with carmine. JELLIED HAM WITH JELLIED MACEDOINE SALAD: Cook an 8-pound Virginia ham until tender as di- rected at ‘‘Boiled Ham.’’ Let cool overnight in its own liquor. Chill the drained ham and trim its underneath surface neatly. Remove the rind without injuring the fat, leaving on 4 or 5 inches of rind around the bone. Trim off the black adhering to the ham, and wipe and press the fat slightly on a clean cloth to absorb the fat moisture. Remove as necessary any superfluous thickness of fat; then, running the blade of a sharp knife to the ham-bone, thinly slice half of the thickest part of ham. Using an oval cutter 2 inches in diameter, stamp out of the lean slices of ham 30 medallions. Spread on half of these slices a Purée of Paté-de-Foie-Gras, cover these with remaining slices, and chill. Then brush top side of each stuffed slice with a cooling Aspic, and chill until firm. 1 Very thinly chop some Jellied Aspic and the trim- mings of a truffle, reserving the stamped medallion slices of truffle for decoration. Mix the chopped ingredients, then force them through a pastry bag and small tube all around the border of jellied stuffed slices of ham. ' Ar- range the ham on a chilled dish, open, carved side up- wards, over a Hominy Socle screened with Aspice, fill the, carved cavity: with a Jellied Macedoine Salad as it begins to harden, piling the salad in dome shape, and chill till firm. Ornament around the base of this dome with crisp - parsley greens, sections of hard-boiled eggs, and fancy PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 247 cut pieces of truffle and pimentos. Arrange the stuffed jellied ham slices all around this in wreath shape and overlapping. To make the medallions stick, let a few drops of Aspic fall on each spot over which a medallion is fixed. Place a frilled paper on ham-bone, then, using a pastry bag and tube, force around the base of the ham a border of chopped Aspic. Garnish with Aspic Croutons. Reserve in cold place until firm. CALF’S HEAD EN TORTUE, COLD: Prepare a Calf’s Head en Tortue, Hot. Dish it up as directed at that recipe and chill till firm. When ready to serve arrange around border some tomato slices - stuffed as in Tomato Salad 4 la Russe, alternating these with slices of hard-boiled eggs, sour pickles, and stuffed olives. DUCK PATE, COLD: Prepare a tender, tame duck as for roast. Reserve the liver, to which add enough chicken or duck liver to obtain about 1144 cups. Soak 15 minutes, drain, and wipe between towels.. Simmer a sliced onion for a few minutes in 3 tablespoons of clarified melted butter, over a slow fire. Remove onion, In hot fat in pan, removed to a good fire, sauté the liver nearly 2 minutes, then remove liver and cool. In the buttér left in pan, remove to a slow fire, simmer, 14 minute on each side, a Paté-de-Foie- Gras cut into slices. Remove the foie-gras and cool. Cut into small pieces 3 ounces of lard-pork, the liver, and the foie-gras, pound them to a paste in a mortar, then rub through a purée strainer, adding a tablespoon each of chopped parsley and cream. Thoroughly stir into this pulp 1 beaten whole egg, 1 teaspoon of salt, 14 teaspoon of freshly-ground black pepper, and a dash. of powdered thyme. Stuff the duck with this mixture and sew and truss as for entrée. ; Make a rather stiff dough with 1144 pounds of sifted flour, 1 teaspoon of salt, 5 ounces of lard and as much_ _-butter, 4 egg-yolks, and about 44 cup of white wine, or, if wine not available, water. Allow the thoroughly 248 THE FRENCH CHEF IN kneaded dough to rest awhile in a cold place. Pat and roll it down, fold 4 times, pat and let stand in a cool, dry place two hours. Roll the dough out into a sheet large enough to encase the duck, and place duck breast down- wards on the center. Gather the corner and edges over back of bird and seal them together, brushing the edges with a little cold water to make them adhere, and leaving no thin open space. Wash all the surface with a beaten egg, and put on a wire grating set in a roast pan, back of bird downwards. Make in the top crust (the breast side of the bird) a fancy incision to allow evaporation, and bake in a rather hot, moderate oven about 11% hours. When done remove and. let cool. ' Neatly cut from top crust a cover slice large enough to lift out the bird. Slice lengthwise the breast of the duck, lift it out of crust, remove string, and spread on each slice some of the stuffing. Replace the-slices as they were before carving, replace duck through the crust, cover, and reserve in a cold dry place to serve when wanted. DUCKLING TIMBALE A LA FRANCAISE: Clean and draw a squab tame duck, remove breast- bone, stuff with a stuffing mad@ as directed below, and truss and cook as directed’ at‘‘ Duck Braised,’’ substituting -for the boiling stock a pint of meat jelly Aspic. Adda glass of Sauterne. When done remove duck and free it of strings. Strain the liquor, and thoroughly skim. off the fat. The liquor, cooled to nearly setting point, may be used as Aspic as directed below; but if lacking the meat jelly, use Consommé to cook the duck, then when done dissolve, in the heated liquor freed of ‘fat, the usual proportion of soaked gelatine to jelly the article. Stuffing: Soak the duck liver 15 minutes, and add to it 4 or 5 chicken livers; drain, and wipe between towels. Put in a small frying-pan, over a good fire, 1 tablespoon each of butter and oil; and sauté the liver 114 minutes in the hot fat. Pound the cold liver in a mortar, adding an equal quantity of paté-de-foie-gras; then rub through a fine sieve, adding 1 tablespoon each of Panada and thick cream. Season as needed, rather highly: PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 249 _ Slice the fillet’ of the chilled duck and put back as it was before carving, spreading a little of the stuffing between the slices. Chill. Screen the entire surface of the bird with the above cooling Aspic near setting, and set aside to chill until firm. Take on the point of a truss- ing needle some large red canned cherries previously wiped between towels, dip these in the cooling Aspic, ar- range over jellied duck breast, and, when firm; set aside until firm and jellied. ‘ Dress the duck on a chilled Hominy Socle screened with Aspic. Coat 6 small individual timbale molds with port wine or orange jelly near setting. When firm repeat the coating of jelly. Let stand until firm again. Ar- range in some chilled and drained canned cherries, and pour over cooling port wine or orange jelly near setting to cover cherries. Unmold around the duck’s base alter- nating with Aspie Croutons. VEAL AND HAM TUREEN: Cut out of a pound of veal round: some long slices % inch thick and % inch wide, removing gristle, fat, and skin; select best part of meat for slices, which re- serve. Remove gristle and fat of remaining trimmings of veal and cut into small pieces. Slice and cut in same manner 1 pound of lean ham, also 1 pound of lard-pork. Pound to a paste all trimmings in a mortar, then rub through a purée strainer. Season with very little salt, ‘or as needed, and rather highly with black pepper. Add a few grains of nutmeg or a dash of thyme. Mix thor- oughly, adding 3 egg-yolks. line an earthen tureen + with a few thin slices of lard-pork, arrange at bottom a layer of forcemeat, and over it, alternately, the reserved slices of veal, lard-pork, and ham. Cover with a layer of-forcemeat, and repeat layers of meat slices and forcemeat until all are used, finishing with forcemeat. Cover with the lid, tightly, and bake in a moderate oven 3 hours. Let cool nearly to setting point, then carefully skim off the fat rising on top. Add a cooling Aspie to screen it, and set aside to chill “till firm. Serve in tureen. If the paté has to be un- molded, line it with buttered paper before filling the tureen. 250 THE FRENCH CHEF IN VEAL AND HAM PATE: Line an earthen tureen with a ‘‘luining Paste for Cold Paté’’ (see recipe), rolling out the lining paste 14 of an inch thick. Over-run sides of tureen with the lining paste; then fill inside in the same manner and with same ingredients as directed in the preceding recipe. Moisten the edge of over-running paste, lay on top a crust of same paste to cover, fasten the edge in a fancy shape, wash cover with a‘beaten egg, make a fancy incision in center for evaporation, and bake in moderate oven 3 hours. Remove and allow it to entirely cool, then, through a small funnel introduced into the central incision, pour in a cup of cooling Aspic. Let. stand in a cold, dry place until thoroughly chilled and firm. Carefully un- mold on a cold dish. Boning Birds and Fowl Pluck dry, fresh-killed birds; singe, carefully pick out the pin feathers, wash, and wipe between towels. Draw the birds after they are boned. With a large bird, cut off the neck at about 114 inches from ody, with a small one cut it close to body, then cut off the wings to the joint near the body, large birds having the tip wings cut at the-second joint. Cut off the feet at first joint. Take great care all through the following operation never to break or pierce the skin and to scrape the meat neatly close to bone; also not to break the skin that envelopes the entrails, when sinewy parts are encountered, running. the knife through them. With a sharp special knife, starting at the neck, cut through skin the entire central length of backbone, then gradually scrape the meat off this bone, towards shoulder blade, also scraping the meat off that bone. Then, with knife always following the carcass towards the wing joints, at that point cut through sinewy portion. Start- ing again on same side from backbone, thoroughly scrape the’meat off backbone and ribs, towards the wish-bone. Free wish-bone and neck-bone, then, using fingers, loosen the windpipe and crop, which carefully remove. Con- tinue with the knife very gradually and carefully follow- ing wish-bone till nearly to the breastbone, when great \ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 251 care should be taken not to break the skin, which at this spot nearly adheres to tip edge of bone. Starting from the end of the leg, run the knife close to bone, loosen the meat as far as possible, scrdpe the meat off first and , second joints, then draw the bones of the legs. Repeat the same operation on the other side, then draw out the carcass and arrange the bird in its former shape. MOUSSE OF. FOIE-GRAS:. With an Aspic er Quick Aspic, which may be flavored with a little sherry, screen and ornament some chilled small individual timbale molds as directed at ‘‘Orna- mentation of Molded Aspic,’’ decorating. it with a truffle. Let: stand until firm. Pound and rub through a sieve a pété-de-foie-gras, and into each cup of this pulp gently stir 14-cup of cream beaten stiff to bottom of bowl and 2 tablespoons of cooling Aspic. Season as needed with salt and a few grains of Cayenne. With this fill the jellied timbale 34 full, straighten surface, pour the cooling Aspic to fill mold, and let stand buried in cracked ice 2 hours. Unmold on a cold dish. HEAD CHEESE: Take a pig’ s head cut into 4 ‘pieces, wash, and let stand 4 days in a brine, enough to cover. Drain, wash, and rinse., Put in a kettle, add cold water to cover, and ‘bring to a boil, leaving out ‘salt. If the head has not been pickled, immerse it in boiling water to cover, bring quickly to a boil, andaadd a tablespoon of salt. Remove the kettle to a slow fire, adding a crushed bean garlic, 4 _cloves inserted in an onion, and a large kitchen bouquet, and let simmer slowly till tender, when the meat is easily parted from the bone. When done, remove kettle, lift out the tongue, im- merse it in plenty of cold water, and peel off skin. Return tongue to kettle and allow the head to stand until nearly cold. Drain. Bone the head, cut the meat into small even pieces, and arrange it in a collander, dividing the pieces of tongue throughout the mixture, while seas- oning as needed. with a little salt and rather ‘highly with 252 THE FRENCH CHEF IN black pepper and powdered thyme. Put a dish on top, set a weight over it, and let stand in a cold place until next day. The collected liquor freed of fat may be re- duced into Aspic, and used to screen the head cheese. COLD FISH: Any kind of fish that is good boiled may be poached as directed at, ‘‘To Boil or Poach Fish.’’ Cooled, it may be arranged in nice shape on a cold dish. Garnish with ‘parsley greens, water-cress, or lettuce, and serve with Mayonnaise or Tartar Sauce. » PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES: 253 CHAPTER X TIMBALES, MOUSSES, FORCEMEATS, QUENELLES, ETC. T IMBALES are smooth mixtures poached in the oven _ in molds of different shapes, whether they be ring border, cylindrical molds with tube in center, or small -individual molds, ete. They usually have the bottom and sides ornamented as explained below. When sliced truffle is cut into figures, the trimmings are chopped and usually added to the mixture or its sauce. Occasionally the timbale mold is lined with pastry crust. Timbales are always unmolded before serving, and these mixtures therefore should always be firm enough to retain their shape, although a too compact texture is not desirable as it loses in succulency. : Forcemeat timbales are made of the raw pulp of fowl, veal, brains, sweetbreads or fish, and the cooked pulp of cured ham, pickled tongue, or cured fish. Some- times left-over cooked fish or meat is substituted for the raw material; but, although acceptable, they do not give so fine results. Vegetables used in timbales are always cooked. Oc- casionally they are used to ornament bottom and side of timbale, and occasionally, also, the center is filled with vegetables or with salpicon of cooked meat or fish mixed in a thick sauce. In egg timbale the eggs are slightly beaten. They are occasionally added to some softened meat pulp or cooked Vegetable Purée to which a Thick Sauce or cream is added. Eggs give to the finished article a smooth, consistent texture that holds its shape. Occasionally the yolks and whites of eggs are separated, the whites beaten stiff and added last, and the timbales thus made are called ‘‘Mousses.’’ In this latter mixture, whipped cream is often added. | The molds are always ornamented before filling. All the ingredients used in decoration are thoroughly chilled ; the vegetables are always blanched; carrots, beets, tur- 254 THE FRENCH CHEF IN nips, ete., or truffle, sour pickles, yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs, ete., are sliced, then figures cut out with a fancy cutter. Cauliflower is cut into small flow- erets of same size. Figures are also cut out of sliced cooked pickled tongue, cured ham, and cooked slices of the meats. Fish timbales are occasionally lined with _Yaw fish fillet. ‘ To Ornament a Timbale Mold, butter bottom and sides of mold. Chill in ice water. Brush the portion of the decorating articles that must adhere to the mold with melted butter, then, taking care to alternate these in a decorative manner as to color and shape, take them one by one at the point of a trussing needle and set them into place, beginning at the bottom. When the bottom is decorated, gradually decorate the sides from bottom up- wards, let fall on each fixed piece of decoration a few: drops of melted butter to assure its sticking, let stand until very firm, then carefully fill mold. To facilitate the unmolding of a timbale filled with a thick mixture, set at bottom of mold a buttered sheet of paper before beginning to'ornament it. Timbales and mousses are poached in the same man- ner. Arrange the timbale over a sheet of paper in a basin or pan. Add boiling water to three-fourths of mold’s height, cover with greased paper, and bake in a slow, moderate oven that will keep the water constantly at a few degrees below the boiling point. Timbales to be eaten cold are unmolded when thor- oughly cooled. When eaten hot, they should be removed - from the hot water 5 or 6 minutes before serving, then let stand 4 minutes before unmolding;' but, lacking time, dip mold in cold water a few seconds, wipe, then, using a small, flexible palette, loosen the article from the sides, beginning at edge of mold. Gently tip mold to find out if it is loosened; then place serving-dish upside down, center of dish over center of mold; carefully invert; knoek on the top of mold and carefully lift. Wipe off liquor, if any, that runs down on dish. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 255 FORCEMEAT: Forcemeat is the raw meat of either fowl, game, veal, fish, shellfish, ete., cut into pieces, skin and gristle re- moved, then pounded in a mortar to break the fibres of the meat, and then rubbed through a purée strainer. The raw material used should be very fresh. Often a Flour or Bread Panada is added before the meat is rubbed through the sieve. Then eggs, butter, or cream are incorporated in this pulp and the resulting mixture should always be consistent. This forcemeat is used to make timbales, mousses, quenelles, etc. Left-over meat or fish may be utilized to make force- *meat, as a matter of economy, and while raw meat or fish makes the finest forcemeat, the cooked article may be substituted in any forcemeat recipe for the raw meat or fish pulp. BREAD PANADA: Remove crusts of some white stale bread, say about Y% pound; break into pieces and soak in enough cold water to cover. Turn into a cheese-cloth, and press or squeeze liquor out. Spread over the bottom of a small saucepan and add 1% cup of White Stock or scalded milk. Set over a moderate fire and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until it. forms into a very thick mixture that leaves’the sides of pan. Remove from fire. Occasionally a slightly beaten egg bE yolk of egg is added. Cold, use as directed. FLOUR PANADA: Place over fire, in a small saucepan,.34 cup of either scalded milk, White Stock, or water. Add 2 tablespoons of butter, and salt as needed. When boiling stir in a secant 34 cup of sifted flour. Cook, constantly stirring with wooden spoon, until it has become a thick, smooth paste that leaves the side of pan. Turn the paste onto a buttered dish and allow it to cool. When the article must not necessarily remain white, add a slightly beaten ege-yolk. ’ 256 THE FRENCH CHEF IN QUENELLES: Quenelles are made of any kind of forcemeat. In any recipe for fish or meat Quenelles, there may be substituted an equal weight of any other kind of meat or fish pulp for the kinds specified. These mixtures are always kept in a cold place until needed. Quenelles used as garnishing for soup, patties or other entrées, are usually shaped with a very small teaspoon into the size and shape of a tiny olive. When served as the main, dish, with sauce, as a hot entrée, they are shaped with tablespoons. Occasionally rather firm quenelle one are shaped with pastry bag and tube. . To shape quenelles, use two spoons dipped in hot water. Take in one spoon a rounded amount of the mix- ture and shape its surface with the other spoon. Drop them on a buttered dish, and chill. Quenelles are poached. Bring to a boil in a flat sauce- pan over the fire say 1 quart of water, and add a teaspoon of salt. Remove to a very slow fire. Drop in a quenelle, to try if the consistency is right, and let it cook to just, under the boiling point, small quenelles 6 to 9 minutes, large quenelles about 12 minutes, or until firm; if too soft, the quenelle will break apart. Add to mixture an egg- -yolk. If too firm, add cream or soft butter as mix- ture requires. CHICKEN CREAM FORCEMEAT: Utilized ‘for mousses, timbales, or quenelles. Scrape from a raw chicken or turkey 14 pound of white meat, skin, fat, and gristle removed. Cut into small pieces, and, while pounding in a mortar, gradu- ally add an egg-white, then rub through a purée strainer. Chill in a bowl. Chill also 1% pint of pastry cream. Then, while stirring the chicken pulp, add very slowly just enough cream to soften it a little, and while beating, add the remaining cream very slowly and beat vigorously till it forms a consistent, smooth paste. Season as needed with salt, a few grains of Cayenne; and, at option, a small dash of very thinly chopped fresh thyme or mace. Try if consistency is right by poaching 9 minutes, as above,: Sy PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 257 a little ball the size of a very small olive. If it falls apart and breaks, add a beaten egg-white. If too thick, beat in a-little more cream. eo CHICKEN FLOUR PANADA FORCEMEAT: _ Have ready a cold Flour Panada as directed at that recipe. Scrape from a raw chicken breast nearly 10 ounces of white meat, skin and gristle removed. . Cut it into pieces, and, while pounding it to a soft mass in a mortar, add the white of an egg and the Panada. Rub through a purée/strainer, chill in a bowl, then beat in very. gradually 4% cup of thick cream. Rub through a ‘purée strainer, chill 1 hour, beat in 1 or 2 tablespoons of cream, and season as needed with salt, a few grains of Cayenne, and mace or nutmeg. Try its consistency by dropping from a small teaspoon a ball of the mixture in_ very hot but not boiling water. If too thin it will part and break; then add a beaten egg-white. If too thick, add a little cream.. Flour Panada are not so suceulent as cream force- meats, but are finer than Bread Panada Forcemeat. CHICKEN BREAD PANADA FORCEMEAT: Take 14 pound of raw white-chicken meat as above, removing skin and gristle, and cut into pieces. Pound in a mortar until the fibers are-broken, and add an egg- white. Rub through a purée strainer, adding 44 cup of Bread Panada. Pound again while adding 3 ounces of butter and 3 egg-yolks. Continue pounding till it forms a consistent mixture, then rub through a purée strainer, chill in a bowl, and, while stirring or beating, adda scant cup of thick cream. Season as needed with salt, a few grains of Cayenne, and mace or nutmeg. Try a small ball by poaching it, as directed above. If it breaks add an egg-yolk; if too thick, add a little cream or soft but not melted butter. CREAM FISH FORCEMEAT, I: Take 14 pound of raw meat of any firm, white fish, skin and gristle removed. Cut into pieces, and while 9 #N 258 THE FRENCH CHEF IN pounding in a mortar, add gradually two egg-yolks. Rub through a purée strainer, and chill in a bowl. Then, constantly beating, add very gradually 14 cup of pastry cream. Season as needed with salt, a few grains of Cayenne, and mace or nutmeg. Reserve in a cold place until needed. Especially good to stuff smelts, soles, etc. VEAL FORCEMEAT: In any one of the Chicken Forcemeat recipes given above substitute for the chicken an equal amount of veal fillet. CREAM VEAL FORCEMEAT: 14-pound lean veal meat (cushion), cut into dice 4 ounces fresh fat lard-pork, cut into dice 1 tablespoon butter ; 8 tablespoons very thinly chopped shallot YZcup fresh pastry cream 1 ‘tablespoon chopped parsley % teaspoon salt 1, teaspoon pepper Simmer the shallot over a slow fire a few minutes in melted butter. Remove and reserve. Pound the veal and lard-pork to a paste, adding the shallot. Rub through a purée strainer. Chill ina bowl. Then beat the eream in, very gradually. Add parsley and seasoning. GAME FORCEMEAT: Have ready a cooled Flour Panada, made as directed at that recipe. Take 34 pound of the raw meat of game cut into pieces, skin and sinew removed, and pound to a fine paste in a mortar. Gradually add the Flour Panada, 8 ounces of butter, 24 cup of thick cream, 2 whole eggs and 2 egg-yolks. Season as needed with salt, a few grains of Cayenne, and mace or nutmeg. Then rub through a sieve. ~ : The liquid used to make the above Flour Panada should be a Game Stock made with the bones and trim- mings of game used. Try a small ball of it by poaching. If it breaks apart, add an egg-white. If too thick, add eream or soft but not melted butter. . ~ 4 ‘ PRIVATE AMERICAN -FAMILIES 259 / STUFFING FOR GRATIN DISH: Use either raw or cooked veal or chicken. Take Y pound of meat, removing gristle, fat, and skin. Cut into pieces. Pound in a mortar with 14 cup of canned mushrooms. Continue pounding, and add, all thinly chopped, 1 tablespoon of parsley and 1 teaspoon of chive. Add ¥% cup of Bread Panada made withh White Stock, add also as much butter, and, gradually, 2 egg-yolks. Season as needed with salt, black pepper, and mace or thyme; then rub through a sieve. Often utilized with remnant chicken or veal scallops, ete. STUFFED OLIVES: _ With a small, sharp-pointed knife, stone 2 dozen or more large green olives. Inserting the knife as far down as the stone at olive’s extremity, turn the olive with left hand while holding the knife with the right, and detach the meat from the pit by running the knife in spirals as close as possible to stone. The olive thus pitted will spring back into its original shape, leaving a cavity where stone was removed, which is filled with the follow- ing Forcemeat : re a Pound 2 ounces of lean ham cut into pieces and free of skin. Add 1 ounce of Bread Panada and 2 table- spoons of Tomato Purée. Rub through a sieve. Stir in a teaspoon of cold thick White or Brown Sauce, or of the sauce with which the olive is going to be served., Beat in one egg-yolk. Season as needed. Put this stuffing in a pastry bag with a tube, and force stuffing into olive. Poach, as Quenelles, 9 minutes. : ~ 260 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHAPTER XI FISH, LOBSTERS, CRABS, OYSTERS, CLAMS, AND MUSSELS, TERRAPIN AND FROGS’ LEGS, SALTED FISH, ETC. PSs with the exception of salmon, mackerel, and eel, are desirable foods because of their digestibility, although the food value of fish is not so high as of meat, or fowls. Salted and cured fish are richer in protein than the fresh product. On account of their strong flavor, fish should not be kept in the refrigerator, but they should be kept in a cold place and cooked very -fresh, as by standing they lose their flavor and digestibility. Fresh fish have bright seales, firm flesh, and the eyes full and bright. Fish are poached or broiled, steamed, fried, baked, stewed, sauted or planked. How to Clean Fish Usually small fish are cooked with head and tail left on. Larger fish have the tail and head removed, -ex- cepting when served in a decorative manner or when poached. 7 To clean fish, take a pair of scissors, cut off the fins, and remove the eyes. Spread the fish over a board, then beginning at the tail, scrape the scales off with a knife, towards the head. Occasionally wipe the knife to remove the accumulated scales. Make an incision in the stomach, through which remove entrails. Thoroughly wash the fish in several waters, taking care to remove the coagu- lated blood attached to backbone. Rinse and drain. Then, using a wet cloth wrung out of fresh cold water, wipe the fish thoroughly, especially inside. How to Skin Fish Using a sharp knife, cut off a small strip of skin down the entire length of the backbone, then, at the tail, loosen enough skin to obtain a firm hold, and holding this “” PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 261 loosened skin between the thumb and fore-finger of right hand, hold tail with left hand, and, with a strong pull, deaw off the entire skin, on one side; then, turn the fish and repeat the same operation on the other side. If the ‘fish is not strictly fresh, loosen skin from meat gradually, working more cautiously. , How to Remove the Fillets of Fish Run a sharp knife through skin straight down entire length of backbone, closely following the bone. Loosen and neatly scrape the meat from the bone, thus removing the fillet. Then put the fillet, skin downwards, on the board and, at the tail, with a sharp incision loosen skin from flesh to get a firm hold. Then, grasping the skin with thumb and fore-finger of left hand, with the right hand run the knife under the skin the entire length of the fillet, toward the head, and repeat operation on other side of fish. : When the fillets are too large, run the knife at an angle through fillet to obtain two or more smaller fillets of even size and shape, each one suitable for a service. Or, take the fillet from a cut or slice of large fish. Rolled fillets are often fastened with a buttered tooth- pick, removed before serving. When the rolled fillets are to be fried in hot, deep fat, roll one fillet for each service around a raw potato shaped like a cork. Fasten the pointed ends with a buttered toothpick, and remove potato and toothpick before serving. These fried fillets of fish are occasionally served in . a Potato Croustade, the center filled with any one of the following hot satices: Bearnaise, Tomato, Tartar, etc. Sometimes the rolled fillets, simply fastened with buttered toothpicks, are cooked in Cocottes or poached, and oceasionally they are baked. “To Bone Fish Clean and skin fish as directed above. Using a sharp knife and beginning at the tail, neatly split the fish -throygh the entire central length of the backbone, the knife following closely to the bone, thus separating the fish into two parts. Spread on the board entrail side rer . 262 THE FRENCH CHEF IN up. One half-section will have no backbone and the small bones may be picked out with finger and knife. Turn the other half of the fish, open, split side down, and remove flesh from bone with the knife as above. Turn over, and remove small remaining bones. Small fish may be split open through the stomach, without separating the fillet; then spread skin down- wards on the board. Examine the bony frame, first loosen the little bones attached to the backbone, and then scrape the meat from the backbone. COURT-BOUILLON: Put 1 gallon of cold water in a kettle, add 1%, cup of mild vinegar, or’ use 214 tablespoons of vinegar and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, one tablespoon of salt, 2 each, sliced onions and carrots, 3 cloves, 10 pepper-corns,-a sprig of thyme, 2 white celery sticks, the white part of a leek, a few sprigs of parsley, and a quarter bay leaf. Bring to a boil, simmer one hour, strain, and reserve in a‘cold place. This bouillon may be used several times. Court-Bouillon is used to poach and flavor rather large fish, the vinegar hardening. the fish texture, thus retaining its nutriment. Large fish to be poached are immersed in lukewarm Court-Bouillon, as in this manner they retain their shape and do not burst. It is best to inake the bouillon beforehand; or else the vegetables and: condiments should be encased in a cheese-cloth, or wrap the fish in a cheese-cloth. > BOILED OR POACHED FISH: Clean fish as directed above. To preserve its shape, it is occasionally encased in a cheese-cloth.. Arrange over the rack in the fish-kettle, or, lacking a rack, a sec- tion of fish may be placed on a dish in a kettle. Add, to thoroughly cover the fish, a lukewarm Court-Bouillon prepared as above, not warmer than 115° F. Avoid adding the bouillon either too cold or too hot. Bring it to the boiling point over a moderate fire. Re- move the kettle at once to a spot on the stove that will keep the mixture.constantly threatening to boil but never PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 263 actually boiling. Cook 10 or 12 minutes for each pound, the time counting from the instant boiling begins, and also depending on the thickness of the fish. Lacking the Court Bouillon, pour over fish arranged in kettle lukewarm water to cover, and set over a moderate fire. Add to each gallon of water 2 tablespoons of salt, 14 cup of vinegar, a kitchen bouquet and a few pepper-corns. Finish as above. Drain the fish thoroughly, slip it onto a napkin over a hot dish, and garnish with parsley green and quartered lemon. The kettle should be set over a mod- erate fire till it reaches the boiling point. and the kettle shaken occasionally to shift the heating liquid so that heat may‘ penetrate evenly through to center, else the fish will burst and crack. BROILED FISH: Sardines, smelts, small trout, and all small fish are broiled without splitting, with the heads and tails pref- erably left on, but removed if desired. Shad, mackerel, blue fish, haddock, and fish of moderate size are split down the, back and head, or through stomach and head, and boned, the head left on or not as desired. Chicken halibut, salmon, and other large fish, are usually cut into slices about 1 inch thick; but if these fish are of moderate ‘thickness, the tail portion may be split, provided that it is not thicker than, say, 1144 inches. Clean ‘the fish thoroughly, and bone if so directed. Wipe perfectly dry between towels. Marinate the fish 30 minutes in a little oil, seasoned with a little salt and pepper. To flavor, add a few sprigs of parsley and slices of shallots or onions. Turn over occasionally. Arrange the fish on a hot, greased broiler over a hot, ’ clear fire of coal, with flesh side first exposed directly to the rays at fire source. As the skin side browns much quicker than the flesh side and burns easily, most of the cooking should be done on the flesh side. The skin side is done enough when richly golden-colored, and should re- main over fire only a few seconds or it will burn. At the beginning the fish should be kept close to the fire to sear its surface as quickly as possible, keeping the flesh side 1 minute and the skin side 10 seconds alternately ' 264 THE FRENCH CHEF IN exposed to the heat, holding it gradually farther away as it gradually colors, and, turning over as needed till tender, taking care not to burn skin side. To turn a broiling fish, take a pastry palette and carefully loosen fish surface from broiler wires and turn. To remove a broiled fish, bring border of dish close to | fish and slip fish, loosened, onto dish. Garnish around fish with a wreath of parsley green or water-cress, and faney slices or cuts of lemon which may be sprinkled with Paprika. Often a Maitre d’ Hotel Butter is spread over fish. 2 Thick fillet of fish broiled till golden-colored are occa- sionally finished by cooking in a hot oven until tender. STEAMED FISH: To steam fish, clean fish as above, leaving on the head. Fasten the tail to the fish’s teeth, thus forming a loop or circle. Or, using buttered skewers, fasten the fish into a form like the letter ‘‘S,’’ and tie with string. Marinate the fish in a cold place 5 hours, in a thoroughly chilled Court-Bouillon, enough to cover. Arrange the fish up- right in a steamer thoroughly heated over a good fire, the lower pot 24 full of boiling water. Cover with lid, with a cloth between lid and steamer. Cook until tender, when the meat will separate easily from bone. To preserve its shape, the head may be firmly wrapped in a cheese-cloth. Serve in same manner as Boiled or Poached Fish, removing the skewers, string and cheese- cloth. | : BAKED FISH: Clean fish as above and wipe perfectly dry. If the fish is to be boned and stuffed, the head is left on. Make with a sharp knife a short incision in'the stomach just large enough to remove the entrails, and thoroughly clean inside. Wash and wipe. Occasionally the fish is boned as directed in recipe ‘‘Sole Cooked Whole.’’ Ar- ranging fish in its natural shape, dredge inside with salt and pepper, stuff, and sew, leaving an open space inside to allow stuffing to expand. PRIVATE AMERICAN: FAMILIES 265 To bake and serve fish upright, it may be formed like the letter ‘‘S.’’ Keep it in shape with buttered skewers fastened with twine. Marinate the fish in a cold - place 1 hour in a little oil or melted butter, adding salt, fresh-ground pepper, thin slices of onion, and parsley and thin lemon slices. Fish to be baked are occasionally larded with thin strips of salt pork inserted or simply placed over the back of fish. When the fish are not marinated, brush them with a little melted butter and lemon juice and - dredge over some salt and pepper. Arrange the fish in dripping pan over a ‘‘fish sheet.’’ Lacking this you may use the rind of lard-pork, having — this large enough to lift out the fish when done. Or arrange fish on trimming of lard-pork. Add to pan a tablespoon of onion juice. Cover with an oiled paper. _ Bake the fish in hot oven until seared, when the heat may be reduced. Allow 15 minutes to the pound, baste every 10 minutes, twice at first with a little melted butter, then with the liquor in pan. When the fish head is left on, introduce into hie head a clove inserted in a shallot, a few sprigs of parsley, and a sprig of thyme. Cuts of large fish, 2 or 3 pounds, are often baked in a like manner. Fish ’ steaks 1 inch thick are also often baked as above. Occasionally these have such sauces added as Brown, White, Tomato, Spanish, or Creole. FRIED FISH: Clean the fish as above and wipe perfectly dry. Dredge fish with salt and pepper, roll in a little seasoned milk, then roll in flour, entirely coating the surface, then shaking off surplus flour. Small fish or fillet of fish floured as above are occasionally rolled i in beaten egg and in crumbs. To fry. fish, bring the fat over a brisk fire to smok- ing point ; immerse carefully 2 or 3 small fish at a time, no more, else it will reduce heat of the fat to too great an extent. Using a perfectly dry skimmer, turn over after 1 minute in the hot fat. Cook so ‘they are a golden brown after 214 to 3 minutes in the hot fat, that i 266 THE FRENCH CHEF IN is, small fish, such as smelts or small sole. The cooked article should be crisp, tender, and golden-brown colored. Drain on brown paper at open oven door. Serve at once, garnishing with a wreath of parsley green around the .overlapping fish arranged on center of a hot dish. Re-heat the fat each time before frying more fish. Care of Fat after Frying Fish: Remove fat from fire, cool 1 hour, and proceed as directed at ‘‘Care of Fat after’ Frying.’’ The fat thus treated will retain no fish flavor and will keep a longer time. SAUTED FISH: Small fish, such as trout and smelts, are often sauted with head and skin on. Other fish are cut into slices. Sprinkle over salt and pepper, and roll in flour, or in rich milk then in flour. Occasionally salmon slices floured as above are rolled in beaten egg, then in cornmeal. . ‘Put 11% tablespoons of oil and as much butter in a frying pan over a rather hot, moderate fire. When hot arrange fish in pan to nearly cover its surface. Cook until golden-colored, then, using a pancake turner, turn the fish-and cook the other side until also golden-colored. Repeat until fish is tender and uniformly colored golden brown. - PLANKED FISH: Shad is at its best planked, while white fish, mackeral, smelts, cod, striped bass, salmon, halibut, and nearly all. the salt-water fish may be planked. Procure an oak board 1 inch thick or more and about 10 to 12 inches wide by 16 to 20 inches in length, with the corners rounded and the face grooved. \ Clean the fish and wipe between towels. Season with salt and pepper, roll in a little oil, and let stand 14 hour. Flavor by adding a few sprigs of parsley and thin slices of lemon and onion. Heat the board in a hot oven. Brush the surface with the oil of the marinate. Arrange the fish over it, and place at once in a hot oven, cooking for 12 to 25 minutes, according to thickness. Five minutes before the fish is : i I PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 267 done, remove from oven, and at once, using a pastry bag and star tube, make on the plank a border of a croquette or ring potato mixture. Brush over with a beaten egg- yolk and at once return the fish to the hot oven and bake until the fish is done and the ring golden-colored. The space between the fish and the potato ring may be filled with all the hot vegetables available. The different kinds of vegetables may be piled around the fish, alter- nating as to color; or some Macedoine Vegetables may be used, Spread fish with a Maitre d’ Hotel Butter and serve. Planked fish prepared in this manner is often served 28 a Single-course meal. If the marinate has not been used, rub the board with a crushed onion and sprig of parsley. FISH STEW GARNISHING: Used to garnish large poached, baked, or planked fish having a potato border; or to fill Bouchées, Patties, Cases, ete. | ; Wash soft roe, milt of herring or mackerel. Soak in a Change of cold water, and drain. Turn into salted, boiling water to cover, adding 1 tablespoon of vinegar and a slice of lemon. Simmer until tender, or about 20. minutes, and drain. Cut into dice and re-heat in a sauce rade as directed below. : Lacking the soft roe, or as a variation, use alone or in combination the cooked meat of shelled shrimps, mussels, crawfish, lobster, clams, crab, or parboiled oysters, the larger articles being cut into dice. Sauce: Prepare for each 2 cups of solid material 114 cups of fish Velouté Sauce. Stir in 2 slightly-beaten egg- yolks, and while stirring, cook, under the boiling point, yntil the eggs are set. Reserving the sauce in a bath of hot water, beat in 1 ounce of Shrimp or Lobster Butter cut into bits. Season as needed with a few grains of — salt and Cayenne. FISH FORCEMEAT, I: Used for quenelles or stuffed fish. Turn into 4 eup of milk, in a saucepan over a slow 268 THE FRENCH CHEF IN & fire, 5 ounces of white bread, crust removed and cut -In pieces. Cook, stirring until it is thick and leaves the side of pan. Remove from fire and beat in 2 egg-yolks, eold. Using only one kind of fish, whether it be halibut or any firm, white fish, cut into pieces, removing bones and skin. Pound, then rub through a sieve to obtain 2 cups of pulp. Combine with the first mixture, adding 1 cup of butter, 2 whole eggs, and 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, mixing thoroughly. Rub through a siéve. Season as needed with salt and pepper, and mace or -thyme. Try its consistency by poaching a small ball; if it breaks, add an egg-white; if too thick, add a little soft but not melted butter, or some cream. FISH FORCEMEAT, II: Used for quenelles served as entrées. 4% pound white fish meat free. Butter the size of a large of skin and gristle egg 1 white of egg 1 teaspoon salt 1 whole egg _ A few grains Cayenne % cup Bread Panada % cup pastry cream -Cut fish into pieces. Pound it to a paste in,a mortar, adding gradually the eggs. Continue pounding, add the ‘Panada, then the butter, salt, and Cayenne. Rub through sieve, then add the cream beaten .just light but not dry, Poach a small ball of it to try its consistency. If too thin, it will break; then add a white or yolk of egg. If too thick, add cream. : CREAM FISH FORCEMEAT, IT: Used for fish timbales or border ring. 2 cups white fish pulp 2 egg whites .1 teaspoon salt T A few grains Cayenne A dash of mace %4 pint thick cream Remove skins and bones of fish, cut into pieces; and pound to a fine paste in a mortar, adding gradually the ‘unbeaten eggs. Then rub through a sieve. Season as needed. Beat in the cream very slowly. Try consistency by poaching as above. = PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 269 ~ FISH STUFEING, I: - Melt 114 tablespoons of buttér over a slow fire. Add a very thinly chopped shallot. Simmer a few minutes, and mix thoroughly with the following mixture: Stir into 4 cup of milk or White Stock 1 cup of white bread or eracker crumbs or half and half. When the liquor is thor- oughly absorbed, stir in, all thinly chopped, 1 teaspoon of parsley, 1 teaspoon of capers or sour pickles, liquor pressed out, and a few leaves of fresh thyme. Add salt as needed, season rather highly with fresh-ground black pepper, and mace or thyme. As a variation, omit the capers and pickles, and add 1 tablespoon of chopped tender, white celery stalk. FISH STUFFING, II: To butter the size of a large egg, add 3 or 4 table- spoons of boiling water. Add 14 teaspoon of salt and as much fresh-ground pepper and onion juice. Then mix with cracker or fresh-grated stale bread crumbs, or half and half, adding enough crumbs to obtain a thick paste. Flavor to the taste with mace or thyme and add 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley. OYSTER STUFFING FOR FISH: Melt butter the size of a large egg. Stir in a_few grains of Cayenne, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, and 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley. Mix thoroughly with a cup of cracker crumbs. Rinse a dozen fresh-shelled oysters, remove viscous part, cut the oysters | into dice, and mix them in first mixture. Or, rinse the oysters, wiped between towels, roll in cracker meal, in beaten egg and crumbs, sauté to a delicate golden color in hot clarified butter, then spread inside of fish the above stuffing, arrange over it the oysters, and sew. BREAD STUFFING: Soak in hot water or milk 114 cups of white bread, erust removed. Turn into a cheese-cloth, allow it to arip, or, if necessary, press the liquor out, to obtain 270 | THE FRENCH CHEF IN a thick paste. -Simmer a few minutes over a slow fire, in 2 tablespoons of melted butter, 2 tablespoons of very thinly chopped tender shallot. Mix it thoroughly into the first mixture, adding 2 tablespoons of grated salt pork or suet, skin removed, and 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley. - - Season as needed with salt, and rather highly . with fresh-ground -pepper. If desired, add chopped parsley or a dash of thyme. POACHED SALMON-SHRIMP SAUCE: Clean and prepare for poaching a salmon or a cut of salmon. If a whole salmon, arrange upright on a rack in kettle. Add, to thoroughly cover it, a lukewarm~ Court-Bouillon prepared beforehand as directed at that recipe. Add 3 slices of lemon and a tablespoon of salt. — Place the kettle over a moderate fire and bring to a boil, then remove it to where it will constantly threaten to ‘boil but never quite, until tender, or, about 10 minutes * to each pound of fish. Carefully lift rack and fish, drain 2 minutes, slip it upright from rack onto a napkin, place on a hot, long fish dish, and arrange around the base some unshelled crimson shrimps. Garnish border of dish with a wreath of parsley and fancy cut pieces of lemons. Send separately in a boat a Shrimp Sauce. Whole salmon are very seldom served, except at banquets, but a large or small cut of salmon wrapped in a cheese-cloth may be cooked and served as above. The liquor in which the salmon has been poached may be’ utilized to make the sauce. : 5 SALMON TROUT HOLLANDAISE: j Poach a salmon trout as directed in preceding recipe. When done slip the drained fish upright over a napkin onto a hot dish. Garnish with parsley greens and quar- tered lemon, and send separately a Hollandaise Sauce. POACHED SALMON STEAK: Arrange some salmon slices, 1 inch thick, over the rack in the fish kettle. -Add, to thoroughly cover, a luke- warm Court-Bouillon. Set over fire, adding a slice of ~ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 271 lemon and a teaspoon salt, and bring to a boil. Remove the kettle to a slow fire where it will constantly threaten to boil, but not quite, and cook till tender. Lacking Court-Bouillon, use warm water,/and to each pint ‘of water add 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 tablespoon of vinegar, a kitchen bouquet, and a sliced onion. Serve overlapping on a hot dish, surrounded with a wreath of parsley and quartered lemon. If desired, arrange around it some Parisian Potato Balls 4 la Maitre d’Hotel. Spread over fish a Maitre d’ Hotel Butter, or send separately in a boat any one of the following sauces: Caper, Holland- aise, or Muslin. Follow same method for other large fish steaks. SALMON BELLIES: ~ Salmon bellies are poached or broiled. Wash bellies, finse, and soak over night. Drain and wipe between towels. To poach place in fish kettle, cover with cold water, and add a slice of lemon. Bring to a boil and remove to a slow fire where it will threaten to boil, but’ not quite, for about 20 minutes or until tender. Serve on napkin, garnish with parsley and quartered lemon, and send separately melted butter in a bowl. To broil, brush with oil and broil as usual. Spread over fish arranged on a hot dish a-Maitre d’ Hotel Butter. PAIN OF SALMON: Cut into pieces 1144 pounds of raw, fresh salmon. Remove skin and gristle. Pound to a paste, adding a secant cup of Panada. Rub through a sieve, adding 7 ounces of best butter. Season with a teaspoon of salt and a dash of Cayenne; work in 3 egg-yolks, a little carmine coloring, and lastly, gently fold in 34 cup of fresh cream, whipped stiff-dry. Fill a buttered mold with the mixture, cover with oiled, paper, and poach in a slow, moderate oven about 40 mihutes till firm on top center, surrounded by hot water to 34 of mold’s height. When done remove, dip mold into cold water a few seconds, wipe mold, and invert on a hot serving dish. Serve with a Fish Velouté or Cardinal Sauce. 272 THE FRENCH CHEF IN SALMON MOUSSE: Cut into pieces 34 pound of raw salmon, skin and gristle removed. Pound in a mortar, adding 6 canned mushrooms, and rub through a purée strainer. Make 1 cup of White Sauce with 2 tablespoons of butter, as much flour, a dash of Cayenne, and %4 cup of milk, adding % teaspoon of salt; then beat in 2 egg-yolks. Chill the two mixtures, and combine, adding a little carmine color ing. To 2 chilled egg-whites in a bowl add 14 teaspoon of salt; beat stiff-dry. Gently combine with first mix- ture, adding a cup of whipped cream. Arrange the raixture in a buttered mold and poach as in preceding article. Unmold as directed above. Send separately in a boat a Cardinal or Muslin Sauce. BROILED SALMON STEAK: The thickest part of tail end near stomach opening is best suited for broiling. Take slices of salmon 1 inch thick, and wipe. Marinate 20 minutes in 2 tablespoons of oil, season with 14 teaspoon of salt, 1%, teaspoon of pepper, a few sprigs of parsley, and onion slices. Encase each steak in a buttered or oiled blank paper and arrange on a hot, greased broiler over a rather moderately hot clear fire. Broil about 6'minutes on each side or until tender. Remove paper, and arrange overlapping on a hot dish. Spread over fish a Maitre d’ Hotel Butter. Garnish with parsley green and lemon slices, or mask the salmon steaks with a Mushroom Sauce and garnish with toast points. Or, again, mask the salmon with a Caper Sauce. SAUTED SALMON STEAK: Wipe salmon steak between towels, dredge with salt and pepper, and roll. in granulated corn meal. Put a slice of salt pork, diced, in a frying-pan over a moderate fire. Try out fat, and remove scraps; then sauté the steak in the hot fat, turning 6ver-as needed till slightly golden-colored. Finish by baking in a moderate oven about 7 minutes. -Serve with a Tartar or Hollandaise Sauce. * PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 273 BROILED TROUT: _ Small trout are usually broiled. Clean fish and wipe between towels until perfectly dry. Roll in a little oil to which a little salt and pepper have been added, and let stand for 15 minutes. Arrange the fish on hot, greased broiler over or under a hot, clear fire. As they burn | easily it is best to put them between the wires of a double broiler so as to turn them over often. Broil them until tender about 3 minutes on each side, to a delicate golden color. If the trout are medium-sized, finish cooking in a rather hot, moderate oven about 3 minutes or till done. Arrange on a hot dish, spread over a Maitre d’ Hotel Butter, or serve with quartered lemon, or both. Arrange a wreath of parsley greens around dish. TROUT MEUNIERE: Small trout are often cooked in this manner. Clean and wipe the fish between towels till perfectly dry. Dredge them with salt and pepper, roll in rich milk, then in flour, shaking off surplus flour. Put 2 or 3 tablespoons of clarified butter in a saucepan over a rather hot, moderate fire, adding a teaspoon of oil. When hot, put in the fish, and cook about 3 minutes on each side or until tender and nicely golden-colored, turning over as needed. Slip the fish onto a hot dish. To pan add a piece of butter. When melted add a few drops of lemon juice and a teaspoon of parsley. Stir, give a bubble, and pour over fish. Fillets of shad, sole, etc., are also cooked in this man- ner. SARDINES: .# Fresh sardines may be cooked and served as in the two preceding recipes. Canned sardines may be broiled 2 minutes on each side, and served on a hot dish with slices of lemon. ~ HERRING: ’ When very fresh, herring are excellent fish, and are generally undervalued. To clean herring, cut off fins, 274 THE FRENCH ‘CHEF IN remove eyes, draw scales, and wash. Using a sharp knife, at fish’s throat near the head make a small incision just large enough to introduce the fore-finger; then care- fully remove the entrails, taking care to remove thor- oughly the intestinal vein that runs close to backbone, leaving untouched the milt and soft roe which are the most delicate part-of the fish. The incision should not extend under body, otherwise the milt or soft roe will run out while cooking the fish. Wash the fish carefully, wipe between towels, then, through the incision, dredge inside a little salt and pepper, also a few drops of lemon juice. Marinate this 20 minutes in a little oil with a little salt added and pepper, onion slice, and parsley. Broil as usual till tender and golden colored. Or, dredge ovef fish a little galt, pepper, and powdered mustard, roll in melted butter and fine bread crumbs, and broil, or roll in flour, beaten egg, and crumbs; then fry in hot, deep fat. Herring are often served with a Maitre d’Hotel or Mustard Butter, occasionally, with a cup of White Sauce, with a teaspoon of dry mustard and a tablespoon of lemon juice added. Or, serve with any one of the- following hot sauces: Victor Hugo, Horse-radish, or Toniato. If served with a hot Tartar Sauce, use pow- dered mustard when making sauce. BROILED SHAD: = _ , Clean a fresh shad, wash, and dry between, towels, splitting it under stomach and removing bone. Marinate it 80 minutes in a little oil to which a little salt and pepper, slices of onions, and sprigs of parsley have been added. Occasionally turn over. Broil as usual over a hot, clear fire. When done loosen fish from broiler, slip it on a hot dish, and arrange around it some Chateaubriand Potatoes. Spread over fish a Maitre d’Hotel Butter, and garnish with a wreath of parsley and quartered lemon. PLANKED SHAD, HADDOCK, WHITE FISH, a TO | Clean and wipe perfectly dry between towels a 3- pound fresh shad, haddock, or white fish, splitting fish ~ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 27! under stomach, and removing bones. Marinate it as in preceding recipe. Cook and serve the fish as directed a ‘‘Planked Fish.”’ The fish may be planked under a hot gas fire, anc occasionally it is served with sauted shad roe. SHAD ROE SAUTED: Occasionally served as a garnishing to Planked Fish Wash, soak, drain, and wipe between towels 3 medium sized roe. Blanch 20 minutes in salted boiling water enough to cover, adding a lemon slice. Drain. Saut: in- hot, melted, clarified butter to a golden-brown colo on both sides, dredging over a little salt and pepper Serve with quartered lemon or with a Bearnaise o Chicago Sauce. SHAD ROE AU GRATIN: Prepare and blanch the shad roe as in precedin; recipe. Drain. Arrange the roe in a buttered glas oven gratin dish, sprinkle over a little salt and peppe and a few drops of lemon juice, pour over 2 tablespoon of butter, and sprinkle over buttered crumbs. Cover wit) an oiled paper. Bake in a moderate oven 15 minutes removing paper within the last 6 minutes of baking Serve in same dish. Send in a boat a Victor Hugo sauce separately. FRIED SHAD ROE: Prepare and blanch the shad roe as done at ‘‘Sha Roe Sauted.’? Dredge over the drained shad roe. sal and pepper, roll in cracker meal and beaten egg, an erumbs. Fry in hot, deep fat to a golden color. Serv with any one of the following sauces: Bearnaise, Victo Hugo, or Chicago Sauce. SHAD ROE A. LA MARYLAND: Soak, wash, rinse, and drain 3 shad roe. Wipe be tween towels. Roll in a little melted butter, season wit. a little salt, pepper, and a dash of Paprika, add 2 drop 276 THE FRENCH CHEF IN of lemon juice, then arrange in a buttered pudding dish. Add a glass of sherry, cover with an oiled paper, and bake in a rather-hot moderate oven about 30 minutes. Remove the roe, and reserve hot. With 2 tablespoons of butter, as much flour, a few grains of Cayenne, 1 cup of thin cream, and %% teaspoon of salt, make a Cream Sauce as usual. Reserve in hot water. Strain the liquor left in gratin dish, freed of fat, and re-heat, and while stirring 2 egg-yolks in a bowl slowly add the hot liquor, combine it with first mixture reserved in hot water, and cook without boiling till the eggs are set, beat in a few bits of butter, season if needed with salt and a few grains of Cayenne, and pour over shad roe arranged on a hot dish. BROILED SMELTS: Clean and wipe the fish perfectly dry between towels, and split through stomach without separating the fillet. These are often boned by removing spine bone and smaller bones attached to it. The heads are usually left on. Marinate 30 minutes in a little oil seasoned with a little salt, pepper, parsley, thin onion slices, and a few drops of lemon juice. Broil as usual, basting with the oil of the marinate. Remove fish to serving dish. Spread over a Maitre d’ Hotel Butter. FRIED SMELTS: Roll the prepared fish in a little rich milk seasoned with salt and pepper, and roll in flour, shaking off superfluous flour. Fry in hot, deep fat, 2 or 3 small fish at a time, to a crisp golden color. Serve crisp fish with a Tartar Sauce, quartered lemon, and Fried Parsley. BAKED STUFFED SMELTS: Take 6 smelts of an even size to fit in a buttered glass oven gratin dish. Leaving on the heads, clean and split through stomach. Wash, wipe between towels, and bone. Arrange the fish in an upward position in the buttered gratin dish. Using buttered skewers, fasten the heads and tails together. Place a dish over it, then PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 277 carefully invert, lifting out the buttered dish. Dredge in fish cavity a little salt and pepper, drop in each one a few drops lemon and onion juice; then, using a pastry bag and tube, force into each fish cavity a Cream Fish Forcemeat. Gover the fish with inverted buttered gratin dish, carefully invert, and lift off the other dish, thus again having the stuffed fish in an upward position in gratin dish. Dredge over a little salt, and pepper, pour over a little melted butter, add to dish 14 cup of boiling hot Fish Stock, cover with oiled paper, and bake in moderate oven about 15 minutes or until tender, basting twice with a little melted butter. Remove fish to hot serving dish, take out skewers, strain the liquor left in gratin dish, free it of fat, add it toa cup of Cream Sauce, and send sauce separately i in a~boat. Flounders, Soles, and Sandabs Flounders, Soles, and Sandabs are all flat fish. All the recipes given for flounders are-also good for soles and sandabs, and vice versa. Often a substitute for these fish is made of thin slices of halibut shaped into fillets. , ROLLED FILLETS OF SOLE OR FLOUNDER AU GRATIN: Take up from cleaned soles or flounders fillets of suitable even size and pointed shape (see, ‘‘To Take Up the Fillet of Fish’’). Roll in turban shape, then arrange in crown shape in a buttered glass oven gratin dish, each one overlapping next one, pointed end downwards. Dredge over salt and pepper, add the hot mixture below, cover with an oiled paper, and bake about 15 minutés in moderate oven. Serve on same dish. Simmer 5 min- utes, or until slightly amber-colored, in 2 tablespoons of melted butter 3 tender shallots, thinly chopped, then add - Y%-cup of chopped canned mushrooms. Cook till nearly dry; then, stirring, add, for 6 fillets, 1 eup of Brown or Espagnole Sauce, and, if available, a glass of white wine or Fish Stock. Simmer 10 minutes, skimming fat off the top. Salt-water White Fish cut into fillets may nearly all be arranged in the same manner. 278 THE FRENCH: CHEF IN ROLLED FILLETS OF FISH A LA MORNAY: From sole, flounder, black bass, halibut, ete., take fillets of even, suitable size and shape, one fillet for each service. Roll say 6 fillets in turban shape and arrange them in a glass oven dish each one overlapping the other; pointed end downwards. Add 14 cup of white wine, or Fish Stock to which a few drops of lemon juice have been added, or both. Give a bubble, then bake 12 min- utes in’ moderate oven. Remove the fish to a hot serving dish and reserve hot. Strain the liquor left in dish, free it of fat, reduc’ it to half, then while beating, add it to 114 cups of hot Mornay Sauce. Pour sauce all over fish. Each fillet may be cooked individually in a buttered ramequin, with rolled fillet.shaped just to fit in ramequin. Cook as above, dividing the above ingredients between 6 ramequins. FRIED FILLETS OF FISH: From sole, flounder, halibut, etc., take fillets of even, suitable size and shape, one fillet for each service. Wipe them between towels and marinate 20 minutes in a little oil seasoned with a little salt, pepper, a few drops of lemon juice, thin slices of onions, and sprigs of parsley. Roll in flour and shake off superfluous flour; or dredge over the fish a little salt and pepper, roll in cracker meal and beaten egg, and in crumbs. Fry in hot, deep fat to a crisp golden color, until tender (see, ‘‘To Fry Fish’’). Serve very hot, overlapping and surrounded with a wreath of parsley green and quartered lemon. Send separately in a boat a hot sauce, such as Tartar, Bear- naise, etc.; or, as a variation, stir in any of these sauces 4 chopped. anchovies. Or proceed as done at ‘‘Rolled Fillets and Their Prep- aration.” Quartered Lemon to Garnish a Fish Dish: Roll the lemon on the board, pressing it with the hand. Cut the lemon into four even quarters, large lemons in eight. Dip one cut surface of each quartered lemon in Paprika, then another cut surface of each piece of lemon in thinly chopped parsley. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 279 FRIED FILLETS OF FISH A LA ORLY: From sole, flounder, halibut, etc., take fillets of even, suitable size and shape, one fillet for each service. Wipe | them with a clean cloth. Dredge with salt and pepper’ and marinate one hour with a little lemon juice, parsley and sliced onion. Dip them in a Batter IJ, then fry in hot, deep fat till tender to a crisp, golden color. Serve at once the crisp fish overlapping on a hot dish. Garnish with some ‘‘Fried Parsley’? (see that article); place over border quartered lemon. Send in a boat a Tomato Brown Sauce. FILLETS OF FISH A LA DUCHESSE: Take 6 fillets of sole, flounder, halibut, or black bass, etc., of even size and shape, one-fillet for each service. Cover the head, carcass, and trimmings of the fish in a kettle with cold water, adding a little white wine or a lemon slice, a kitchen bouquet, an onion, and a teaspoon of salt. Simmer 50 minutes, strain and simmer again until needed. Arrange the fish in a pudding dish, dredge over a little salt and pepper, add a little of the hot fish stock, cover with oiled paper, and bake 12 minutes or until tender. Remove the fillet to a long, shallow serving dish. Reserve hot. Add the liquor in pan to fish stock and reduce to nearly a glaze. -Have ready a Croquette Potato mixture, then, using pastry bag and large tube, force orto a but- tered tin 6 balls the size of an egg, pressing on center to make these balls evenly hollow. Brush sides and edges with a beaten egg-yolk. Bake in a hot oven to a light golden color. Have ready 42 stalks of blanched aspar- agus, cut off tips 14 inch long, simmer a few minutes in a littlé melted butter, and reserve hot. Rub the re- mainder of the stalks through asieve. Reserve the purée; if too liquid reduce it over a slow fire to evaporate mois- ture. To 1 cup of Velouté Sauce, add the fish glaze and the Asparagus Purée, and, while beating, bring to a bubble. Simmer a few minutes and skim off fat. Adda little green coloring. Set pan in hot water, then beat in 2 slightly beaten egg-yolks. Cook in hot water until the 280 THE FRENCH CHEF IN eggs are set. Season, if needed, with salt and a few_ grains of Cayenne. Beat ina few small bits of butter, _mask the fish with the sauce, then arrange around dish border the reserved hollow Duchesse Potato Balls, hot, filling the cavities with the reserved asparagus tips, also hot. SOLE COOKED WHOLE: For a service of 6 persons take a’ fresh sole that weighs 114 pounds. Wash carefully and wipe.- Trim off the rough edge around the fish, also the non-fleshy part of tail. Remove only the black skin (see,.‘‘To Skin Fish’’). Scrape the white skin that is left, else the baking or poaching fish will shrink and its shape will be altered. Using a sharp, flexible knife, and beginning about 114 inches from tail end, push the knife point through the flesh as far as center of backbone, and make an incision towards head, the knife following center of backbone, to within an inch of the head. Then neatly scrape the meat from bones on both sides of spine. Turn the fish over and repeat same operation on the other side, thus entirely loosening the meat from bone, which may be removed after breaking backbone close to tail and head. Then wash inside and out, wipe very dry, and arrange the sole in its original shape. SOLE NORMANDE, I: Bone as above 114 pounds of -sole. With smelts prepare a Fish Cream Forcemeat I. Reserve bones of sole and heads and bones of smelts. Simmer 2 table- Spoons of chopped carrots and onions in a saucepan, in 2 tablespoons of melted butter, over a slow fire until slightly amber-colored. Add reserved fish trimmings, cut in pieces, stir, add cold water to cover, and 14 tea- spoon of salt, 1 clove, 6 pepper-corns, a kitchen bouquet, and 1 slice of lemon. Bring to a boil, then simmer 50 minutes and strain. Re-simmer till needed. Prepare the garnishing ingredients as follows. - Cook 8 dozen mussels as directed at ‘‘ Mussels 4 la Mariniére.’’ Drain. Reserve the liquor and shell the mussels. Blanch ~~ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 281 1 dozen mushroom buttons as directed at ‘‘Blanched Mushrooms.’’ Reserve with liquor. Parboil as -usual 2 dozen small blue-point oysters. | Reserve with liquor. Have ready 6 boiled crawfish (see, ‘‘Boiled Crawfish’’). or some large unshelled crimson shrimps. Arrange the , sole on a buttered shallow oval dish of a size suitable to the fish. Dredge a little salt and white pepper over and inside of fish. Arrange the Fish Cream Forcemeat inside the fish, add. the fish stock and a teaspoon of lemon Juice to cover fish. Set an oiled paper on top, and poach in a moderate oven until tender, or about 30 minutes. Care- fully remove fish to a dish ‘and reserve hot. To the fish stock add the combined liquor of the mussels, mush- rooms, and oysters. Strain through a doubled cheese- cloth. Skim oif fat.on top, and reduce liquor, by boiling, to 1 cup. Thicken as usual with a White Roux made of 3 tablespoons of butter and as much flour and a few grains of Cayenne. Beat constantly till boiling, slowly adding a cup of cream. Beat and simmer 10 minutes, then skim. While stirring 3 egg-yolks in a bowl, slowly add % eup of the hot sauce. Continue stirring, while combining the two mixtures; then set in hot water and cook without boiling till the egos are set. Beat in 11% ounces of best butter cut into bits. Season as needed with a few grains of Cayenne. Re-heat in the sauce the oysters, mussels and mushrooms. Fry 2 dozen white-bait. Pour % of the hot sauce in bottom of a hot oval dish. Arrange the sole over it, placing around the fish the. oysters, mussels, and mushrooms. Mask the whole with the sauce, then garnish around border alternately with crawfish or shrimps and hot, crisp white-bait. SOLE NORMANDE, II: Poach fillet of sole in a fish stock till tender. Drain, arrange fish on hot serving cise and mask with a Nor- mance Sauce. { WHITE-BAIT, FRIED: Wash the white-bait in a change of water, drain, and thoroughly dry between towels. Dredge over a little 282 THE FRENCH CHEF IN 1 fine salt and pepper, and roll in flour, shaking off super- fluous flour. It is desirable to flour these fish gradually as needed, thus avoiding the moistening of the flour, as only a handful of fish can be fried at a time. Arrange them apart from each other at the bottom of a fryer basket, immerse in very hot, deep fat, and fry about 1 minute or till crisp and richly golden-colored. Drain. Reserve on brown paper at open oven door. Serve at once, crisp, hot, and dry, piled on a hot dish, FILLET-OF SOLE A LA JOINVILLE: Order 6 sole fillets of suitable size and shape. Have ready a Fish Cream Forcemeat I, and a Fish Stock made with the heads, bones and trimmings of fish, as directed at ‘‘Sole Normande,J.’’ When done strain, skim off fat on top, and simmer until needed. Dredge over the fillet a little salt and pepper. Spread the forcemeat upon the skinned side of each fillet, fold stuffing inside, and fasten the pointed ends. together with buttered toothpicks. Arrange the fillets in a selected side shallow oven dish; add the hot Fish Stock to cover; cover with a buttered paper, and bake in a rather moderate oven till tender, about 12 minutes. Remove the fillets and reserve hot. Strain liquor, free it of fat, and reduce to a thick glaze. Have ready a Normande Sauce. Cut into small dice 6 canned mushrooms, 144 cup of shrimps, and a truffle, of which reserve a few slices to stamp out figures for garnishing. Heat these thoroughly in the reduced liquor, while shaking the pan. Pile this salpicon onto center of a hot serving dish, and mask with % of the hot Normande Sauce. Arrange the folded fillets in a wreath shape, pointed ends downward, the ends over- lapping border of dish. Remove skewers, replacing them with small lobster or crawfish claws or with unshelled erimson shrimps. Garnish around dish with reserved truffle and lemon slice. Mask the fillets with the remain- ing sauce. ‘ FILLET OF SOLE A LA VENITIENNE: Use as many fillets of suitable size and shape as you PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 283 have service. Wipe these dry between towels. Sprinkle . with a little salt and pepper and marinate them 20 min- utes in a little oil, adding a few sprigs of parsley and thin slices of onions. Sauté in hot, clarified butter over a rather hot, moderate fire till tender and of a light -golden color on both sides, turning over as needed. Re- move to a hot serving dish, dredge over a few drops of lemon juice, then mask with a Sauce Venitienne. Gar- nish around fish with lemon slices. FILLET OF SOLE AND OYSTERS AU GRATIN: Take 6 fillets of sole of suitable size and shape, or 1 for each service. Arrange fillets; folded, in a buttered glass oven gratin dish, pointed ends downwards, fastened with buttered toothpicks. On each pointed end place a parboiled oyster. Dredge with salt and pepper, and add a Tomato Sauce to barely cover. Dredge over grated Parmesan and Gruyé#e cheese mixed, sprinkle buttered crumbs on top, and bake in a moderate oven about 30 minutes. Serve on same dish. . Each rolled fillet may be cooked as above in individual ramequins or cocottes, dividing ingredients and sauce between them. ‘FRESH MACKEREL: Mackerel are often split through the stomach without separating the fillets, then cleaned, boned, and broiled as usual, spreading opened fish over broiler ; or the fish may be split through the backbone. Carefully wipe the fillets between towels. Marinate them 30 minutes in a little oil to which has been added a little salt and pepper, thin slices of onion, and parsley. Broil as usual, basting with the oil of the marinate. When done remove fish to hot serving dish. Spread over a Paprika or Maitre d’ Hotel Butter, and garnish with parsley and quartered lemon; or, spread over the cooked fish the following mixture: Cream 1% tablespoons of butter, then rub in a few drops of lemon juice and, thinly chopped, 11% tablespoons of nuts, 14 tablespoon of parsley, and a dash of chive. 284 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Or, divide the fillet: into fillets of suitable size and shape, 1 for each service, and dredge over a little salt, pepper, and a little lemon juice. Marinate 30 minutes in a little melted butter. Arrange in an oiled gratin dish, cover with a greased paper, and bake in a rather hot oven till tender, about 10 or 12 minutes, basting twice with a little melted butter. Arrange fish on hot serving dish and pour. over a Sauce Venitienne. Or, to fillet arranged in buttered glass oven gratin dish add, thinly chopped, 6 canned mushrooms, a shallot, and a teaspoon each of chive and parsley. Add Ys cup of mushroom liquor and 114 cups of Brown Sauce. Dredge over top some buttered crumbs, and bake 30 min-' utes in moderate oven. MACKEREL ROE: Wash and wipe the roe very dry. Dredge with salt and fresh-ground pepper. Roll tn melted butter with a few drops of lemon juice added and let stand 20 min- utes. Arrange on a hot, greased broiler and broil as usual, about 10 minutes, to a golden color. Baste twice with alittle melted butter. Remove fish to hot serving dish, and spréad over a Paprika or Maitre d’ Hotel. Butter. POACHED FRESH COD: / The different varieties of codfish, whether they be Rock Cod, Blue Cod, or George Cod, are best when poached, but occasionally they are planked or baked. Large cod are often cut into steaks an inch thick to be poached or baked. Clean and poach say a four-pound cod, leaving on the head; as directed at ‘‘Poached Salmon.’’ When terider slip the fish onto a hot serving dish. Arrange around it a Fish Garnishing Stew or some Parisian Potato Balls & la Maitre d’ Hotel, then garnish around border with quartered lemon and parsley. If served with the potatoes, send in a boat, separately any one of the following sauces: Hollandaise, Normande, Shrimp, or Lobster Sauce, ete. ' ‘PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 285 ~ To poach cod-steak,. proceed as directed at ‘‘Poached Salmon Steak.’’ When done slip the drained fish onto a hot serving dish, spread’over a Paprika or Maitre d’Hotel Butter, or send in a boat: separately one of the sauces mentioned above. BAKED CODFISH STUFFED: Clean a fresh 4-pound codfish. Bone, and dredge inside’ with salt and pepper. Stuff, sew, and insert through back thin lardoony/ of salt pork, and skrew in an upward position. Bake as directed at ‘‘Baked Fish.’’ Use any fish stuffing given above, or any one of the fish forcemeats. When done slip the fish upright onto a hot dish and remove skewers. Pour around it a Fish Stew Garnishing or Chateaubriand Potatoes, and. garnish with ‘parsley and quartered lemon. If served with the pota- toes, send separately a highly seasoned Tomato or Monte- bello Sauce, or any one of the following hot sauces: Oyster, Shrimp, Lobster, Hollandaise, Tartar-Chan- tilly, ete. POACHED HADDOCK: Haddock are marked by a black stripe running along each side of fish. Haddock are poached or baked, occa- sionally planked, following directions given at ‘‘Planked Shad.’? The haddock that come on the market as ‘‘Fin- nan Haddie’’ are salted, dried and smoked haddock. _ Take a fresh haddock weighing 314 to 4 pounds, and with it proceed as directed at ‘‘Poached Salmon.”’ Serve surrounded with Parisian Potato Balls 4 la Maitre d’Hotel. Garnish with slices of lemon and parsley green. Send separately in a boat either a Hollandaise, Tartar, or Normande Sauce, ete. ss BAKED HADDOCK: Clean a fresh haddock of.21% to 4 pounds. Bake and serve as directed at ‘‘Baked Codfish Stuffed,’’ using an Oyster Stuffing. Send in a boat separately either a highly seasoned Montebello, Oyster, or Tomato Sauce. \ \ 286 THE FRENCH CHEF IN. : \ SKATE, BLACK BUTTER SAUCE: Skate properly prepared is a fine fish. The best part of the skate consists of the two wings and the two thick- est parts near the head. Cléan and wash, rub the skin vigorously with a brush, and again wash and rinse. Cut off the fins and head, and split fish in two lengthwise cut- ting each half into 3 even pieces. For 6 persons order a skate weighing 214 pounds. ‘When removing the liver, carefully remove also the gall bladder. Wash liver and reserve. Have ready a strained Court-Bouillon. Cook till lukewarm. Arrange fish in, kettle over a rack, add enough lukewarm Court-Bouillon to cover, and a teaspoon of salt, bring to a boil, and re-. move kettle to back of stove where it will threaten to boil, but not quite, until the fish is tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Twenty minutes before the fish is done, add the liver. When done lift out the fish, and using the back of a knife, scrape off both white and ‘black skin. Arrange on a hot dish, dredge with chopped parsley, pour over a very hot Black Butter Sauce, and garnish with Fried Parsley, prepared as follows: Fried Parsley for Fish Garnish: Wash a few sprigs of parsley, shake off the moisture, and wipe ‘dry between towels. Immerse in hot, deep fat and fry a few seconds or till crisp. Drain. Dredge over a few grains of fine ° salt. When the fried parsley is to be served with eggs, brains or poached fish, with a Brown Butter Sauce, it is cooked until crisp in the same butter that is used to make the Brown Butter Sauce. Fried parsley melts in- the mouth when eaten. z STRIPED BASS: Bake or poach as directed at ‘‘Codfish.’’ Poached, they may be served with a Paprika Butter or with any one of the following sauces: Hollandaise, Muslin, Bear- naise, etc. s BAKED BLUE FISH: Clean a blue fish weighing 314 to 4 pounds. Wipe \ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 287 very dry and bone. Dredge inside a little salt and pepper, and a few drops of lemon juice. Stuff with any one of the fish stuffings. Sew, and truss in an ‘‘S8”’ shape in an upward position with buttered. skewers; fasten with twine. Arrange upright over a fish sheet in an oiled dripping pan. Pour over a little melted butter, and dredge with a little salt and pepper. Add to pan trimmings of lard-pork and a tablespoon of onion juice. Cover with a greased paper, and bake 45 to 50 minutes, basting every 10 minutes, twice with a little melted butter, then with the liquor in the pan. BAKED FILLET OF BLUE FISH: _ Clean, split, skin, and bone a 3-pound blue fish. But- ter a pan, dredge over it 3 thinly chopped shallots, ar- range the 2 fish fillets on it, dredge with salt and pepper, add a few thinly sliced canned mushrooms, blanched, and pour over fish 2 tablespoons of melted butter and a few drops of lemon juice. Add 1% cup of hot Fish Stock and a little mushroom liquor or white wine. Cover with buttered paper, and bake in a hot oven until‘ tender. Remove fillets to serving dish, and pour over a White or Brown Italian Sauce. , Strain the pan liquor, free it of fat, and use to make the sauce; or reduce it to a glaze and add it to the sauce. FISH TIMBALE, I: Butter a quart mold, and cover bottom with buttered blank paper. If desired; ornament it as directed at ‘“‘Timbale Ornamentation and Filling.’’ Spread over bottom and side a layer 1% inch thick of Fish-Cream Forcemeat II. Then fill center with a filling made as directed below, spread on top a layer of Fish Forcemeat, cover with an oiled paper, and poach, as usual, about 35 or 40 minutes until firm on topscenter. Filling: Make a Fish Stock with the trimmings, head, and careass of fish used to make forcemeat, as directed at ‘‘Sole Normande, I.’’ Sfrain, free it of fat, and reduce to a seant cup. Blend over the fire in 2 tablespoons of melted butter, as much flour, and a dash of Cayenne . 288 THE FRENCH CHEF IN. and, while stirring, dilute by adding the hot reduced liquor. Stir till smooth and boiling, simmer 10 minutes, and add 2 tablespoons of thick cream. When bubbling, remove the pan. from fire, and beat in 3 egg-yolks and 1 ounce of fresh.butter cut in bits. “Or, instead of fresh butter use either Crab, Lobster, Shrimp or Anchovy” Butter. Season as needed with a few grains of salt and Cayenne, then add 1 cup of cooked flaked fish. Or, include as all or part of the solid material added, any one of the following, diced: Blanched Mushrooms, Cooked Mussels, or Parboiled Oysters; and, if bottom and side of mold have been ornamented with truffle, add the diced trimmings to the sauce. To Serve: Unmold (see, ‘‘To Unmold Timbales’’), - inverting on a hot dish. Pour around it a Shrimp Sauce, and garnish around border with hollow potatoes filled with asparagus tips, as directed at ‘‘Fillet of Sole a ~ Ja Duchesse,’’ or with asparagus tips that have simmered a few moments in a little melted butter, and arranged in bunches of 5 or 6 fastened with rings made of lemon rind and green and red peppers. Or, gemnish with unshelled shrimps. FISH TIMBALE, II: Butter a quart timbale mold that has a tube in center. Flatten 6 fillets of trout or smelts or use thin fillets of halibut. Cut them into long strips 114 inches wide, with sides perfectly straight, and soak 30 minutes in iced water. Drain, and wipe perfectly dry between towels. Insert at regular intervals, on smoothest side of each fillet, some small figures cut out of sliced truffles. Dice’ the trimmings and reserve to add to the filling sauce. _ Press each fillet, truffle side, against and onto the sides of mold, running the fillet from edge of mold as far down as base of center tube, where it will be necessary to cut off with scissors part of the fillet ends, to fit around the tube. Carefully spread all over inside surface of anold and fish a layer 14 inch thick of Fish Cream Force- meat IT, then using the same material as in preceding recipe, fill mold, poach, and serve as there directed. \ . PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 289 | FISH RING: Cut into pieces 1 pound of any firm, white fish, re- moving skin, bone, and gristle. Pound to a paste in a mortar, adding a whole egg and an egg-yolk. Rub through a, sieve, then beating, add very slowly 1 cup of cream. Season as needed with about a teaspoon of salt and a dash of Cayenne. Arrange in buttered ring, cover with greased paper, poach, and unmold as above. Serve with any of the following sauces: Italian White Sauce, Shrimp, Lobster, or Oyster Sauce. FISH PIE: Butter a pudding dish. Arrange at bottom a layer of Fish Forcemeat, then over it a layer of thin slices of cold boiled -potatoes, a layer of cooked fish scallops, and a layer of sliced hard-boiled eggs. Repeat the layers in the same order, seasoning each layer with a few grains of salt and pepper. In % cup of boiling reduced fish stock, beat 1 ounce of Anchovy Butter cut into bits, adding a dash of Paprika. Pour it over the layers. Cover with a rich pie crust or puff paste, and make in center a fancy incision to allow evaporatfon. Bake about 40 minutes. FISH CUTLETS: For 6 cutlets cut into pieces 1 pound of raw, firm white fish, free of skin and bones. Pound in a mortar _to a smooth paste, adding butter the size of an egg, a secant teaspoon of salt, a few grains of Cayenne, and a few drops of onion juice. Rub through a sieve. While stirring or beating, add slowly 1/5 cup of thick cream. Shape as a cutlet, roll in beaten egg seasoned with a little salt and pepper, and in crumbs. Fry in hot, deep fat about 6 minutes, to a nice golden color. Insert in pointed end of each cutlet a piece of macaroni, and set on it a chop frill. Send separately in a boat any one of the following sauces: Montebello, Hollandaise, or any of the hot Tartar sauces. A , 1¢ 290 THE FRENCH CHEF IN How to Select and Open a Cooked Lobster When buying a cooked lobster, always select one relatively heavy to its size, and, if the lobster has been cooked while alive, as it should be, the tail when straight- ened out will snap quickly back into place. Take a cold cooked lobster, turn the claws backwards, and break them apart from body shell; then break and separate the tail from body. The three parts that must be discarded are the stomach, the branchias or gills, and the intestinal vein. Shake out from the body part of the green substance (liver), of which reserve the best, also reserving the coral, which is usually red, occasionally yellow or white. Using the fore-finger of right hand, remove and discard the stomach. Remove also the gills, under which will be found portions of very sweet white meat which remove and reserve. To remove meat from the tail shell, take a sharp knife, make an incision into the thin shell under the tail and carefully remove the whole tail meat in one piece. The intestinal vein, which must be removed, will be found running through entire length of tail. Break the claws and remove the meat. Clean, wash, and dry the lobster shell before filling it with any mixture. When baked, preserve color by brushing shell outside with oil; and to preserve their shape, drive in shell near the top edge a skewer that pierces and fastens into the other side of the shell. How to Use Canned Lobster Turn meat from can onto a purée strainer, and remove paper if any. To remove can flavor, immerse in plenty of cold water and let stand 5 minutes. Drain thoroughly, bone, and wipe meat between towels. ‘BOILED LOBSTER: ; Have a kettle over a brisk fire with enough boiling water to thoroughly cover the lobster. Add, thinly sliced, 1 carrot and 1 onion, a kitchen bouquet, and 6 pepper-corns. Take the live lobster by the back and immerse it head first in the boiling water. After it has cooked 5 minutes, add a tablespoon of salt, then cook from 20 to 30 minutes, according to size. \ “Iobster into the sauce. ~ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 291 BROILED LOBSTER A LA DIABLE: Lay a live lobster on a board, full length on stomach. Using a large sharp butcher knife, split the lobster, cut- ting from center of head the full length through body and center of tail. Remove from body the stomach and gills, and remove the intestinal vein that runs through entire central length of tail. Brush the lobster shell with oil. Dredge over opened side salt and pepper, and brush the meat with melted butter. Lay the pieces, the shell downwards, on a hot, greased broiler, over a clear moderate fire, and broil. A 2-pound lobster will take 30 minutes. Baste occasion- ally with a little melted butter. ~ If necessary, finish cooking the lobster in the oven, the lobster arrangéd shell downwards on an oiled tin. When done remove lobster, break the claws with a cleaver without destroying their shape; and arrange on hot dish, garnish with parsley and quartered lemon, and send in a boat a Deviled Sauce, separately. BAKED LOBSTER: Prepare, split, and season a live lobster as in pre- ceding recipe, brushing shell with oil. Dredge some buttered crumbs over open seasoned side and arrange shell downwards on a tin. Bake a 2-pound lobster in a rather hot, moderate oven 35 to 40 minutes. Baste ocea- sionally with melted butter. Serve as above, with a Deviled or a Montebello Sauce. DEVILED LOBSTER: Seallop cooked lobster, simmer in a little melted butter, dredge over salt and a few grains of Cayenne, shake pan until butter is absorbed, and mix in a Deviled Sauce. CURRIED LOBSTER: Prepare and simmer lobster meat as in preceding recipe. Make a White or Cream Sauce, mixing a tea- spoon of currie powder..with the flour. Then mix the ’ # ra 292 THE FRENCH CHEF IN LOBSTER IN SHELL: Cut 114% cups of cooked lobster into scallops, and simmer a few minutes in a little melted butter, shaking pan until butter is absorbed. Mix into a cup of White Sauce II and with it fill buttered shell. Straighten sur- face, dredge over buttered crumbs, and bake to a deli- cate golden color. LOBSTER A LA POMPADOUR: Prepare a Villeroi Sauce and a gallon of Court Bovil- lon as directed at recipes. Boil a live lobster in Court Bouillon, as at ‘‘Boiled Lobster.’’ Remove the meat from shell of the cooked lobster, as usual (see, ‘‘ How to Select and Open a Cooked Lobster’’) and cut into thick, even-sized scallops. Dip in a cold Villeroi Sauce, thor- oughly masking scallops with the sauce; then roll in fine crumbs and beaten, seasoned eggs, then again in crumbs. Fry to a delicate golden color in hot, deep fat. Drain on brown paper. Serve overlapping, in wreath shape. Ar- range in center a bunch of Fried Parsley (see recipe), then arrange around dish some Potatoes Puffed II.. Send separately in a boat a Montebello Sauce. LOBSTER A LA NEWBURG: Simmer, say 2 cups of cooked lobster, cut in even thick short scallops, in 144 tablespoons of melted butter ; shake pan and cook till the butter is all absorbed. Dredge with a few grains of salt and white pepper. Add 14 cup of sherry, and cook till reduced to nearly a glaze. Cover and reserve in hot water till needed. _ Make a Cream Sauce with 2 tablespoons of butter, as much flour, a dash of Cayenne, 1 cup of thin cream and ¥% teaspoon of salt. Reserve in hot water. While beating 2 or 3’ egg-yolks in a small saucepan add slowly 14 cup of sherry that has been boiled a min- ute. Place it in hot water and beat and cook till the eggs are set. Reserve in hot water. Combine the three mixtures when ready to serve, to prevent curdling, and it may be best, if it has to stand a while, to use only 2 egg-yolks and thicken the sherry PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 293 as usual with a little White Roux. Shake pan to mix, pour onto buttered toast, and garnish with toast points. If the sauce is too thick, add a little fresh cream and correct the seasoning as needed with salt and white pepper. LOBSTER CREOLE: To 1 cup of Consommé over the fire add 14 cup of Tomato Purée and 2 small green peppers cut into thin, short slices, seeds and skins removed. Bring to a boil, and let simmer 14 hour. Thicken with 2 tablespoons of flour blended in as much melted butter over the fire. Stir until boiling. Simmer 15 minutes, adding a dozen small mushroom buttons. Remove sauce to a bath of ‘hot water, then, stirring, add two slightly-beaten egg- yolks; a dash of Paprika, and salt as needed. Cook in hot~ water 6 minutes, then stir in 2 ounces of Lobster Butter cut into bits, adding the lobster liver and chopped coral. Cut the meat of a cold cooked lobster into small pieces, and simmer in a little melted butter until the butter is absorbed, dredging over a little salt and pepper. Add this to the sauce, and shake pan to mix. Scald 6 tomatoes and skin. Brush them with oil, dredge with salt and pepper, and make a small incision through center of top in which let fall 1 drop of Tabasco and a bit of butter. Bake in hot oven 6 minutes. Have ready 1% cup of rice cooked as directed at “Ris- soto,’’ leaving out the cheese. To serve, arrange on a hot serving dish bordered with a ring of rice. Fill center with the lobster mixture. Around the ring arrange alter- nately the tomatoes and small lobster claws. LOBSTER FILLING, for Patties, Shell Cases, Croustades, Etc.: Re-heat without boiling 1 ¥Y% eups of cooked lobster meat cut into dice, in a cup of Thick White Sauce IT; or, into a cup of Cream Sauce placed in hot water, stir 2 ‘slightly-beaten egg-yolks, cook 6 minutes or till the eggs are set, and in this re-heat the lobster meat. Season as needed with salt and a few grains of Cayenne. 294 THE FRENCH CHEF IN To either of these mixtures may be added parboiled- oysters, tough parts removed, and blanched mushrooms, cut into same shape and size as lobster meat, using, to each cup of sauce, about 114 cups of solid material. Oc- casionally Patty Shells, Croustades, etc., are filled with a Lobster & la Newburg; but the sauce should then be made thicker by using a tablespoon more flour and butter when thickening. RE-HEATING COOKED LOBSTER: Cut the lobster meat into dice. Simmer over a slow fire in a little melted butter, shaking the pan until the butter is absorbed. Add it to any one of the following sauces without allowing it to boil: Cardinal, Currie, Cream, Bordelaise, Bechamel Sauce. If desired, add, cut into same shape as lobster, parboiled oysters and blanched mushrooms. - LOBSTER CROQUETTES IN CUTLETS: Cut into small dice 124 cups of cold cooked lobster meat. Gently mix it into 1 eup of Thick White Sauce I. Season as needed with salt and a few grains of Cayenne. Turn onto a buttered dish to cool. Shape balls the size of an egg. Flatten and shape as a cutlet. Roll in crumbs and beaten egg, and again in crumbs. Fry to a delicate golden color in deep, hot fat. Drain on brown paper at open oven door. Insert in pointed end of each cutlet a small lobster claw. Serve hot, overlapping in wreath shape, garnishing with parsley and lemon slice. Send in a boat separately any, one of the following sauces: Cardinal, Muslin, Cream, or a Hollandaise Sauce with a little Tomato Purée added. LOBSTER TIMBALE, I: Butter a quart timbale mold, and cover bottom with | a buttered paper. If desired, ornament bottom with figures cut out of a sliced truffle. Chill. Reserve the diced trimmings of truffle. When firm spread over bottom and side a layer 1% inch thick of Fish Cream * PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 295 \ Forcemeat IJ. Make a Cream Sauce with 2 tablespoons of butter, as much flour, a dash of Cayenne, a cup of thin cream, and 14 teaspoon of salt. While stirring, add 3 slightly-beaten egg-yolks and 2 tablespoons of thick cream; continue stirring, and add 1-ounce of Lobster Butter cut into~-bits. Remove from fire. Cut into dice 1 cup of cold cooked lobster meat. Add this to the sauce, also the reserved truffle. If desired, add 4 diced blanched mushrooms. When thoroughly cold, fill the center of mold with this salpicon. Arrange on top a layer of Fish Cream Forcemeat II, cover with greased paper, poach and unmold as usual. Serve with a Cardinal Sauce. ‘ LOBSTER TIMBALE, II: 2 whole eggs 1% cups scalded, then cooled, 2 egg-yolks very rich milk or part 1 teaspoon salt cream ¥ teaspoon Paprika 1% cups cooked lobster meat A few grains of Cayenne While stirring the eggs in a bowl with seasoning in- gredients added, slowly add the milk. Beat well, and strain through a sieve. Cut the lobster meat into pieces, * pound and rub through a sieve into a bowl,’ and, while constantly stirring this pulp, add, very slowly the first mixture. Beat well before turning it into a buttered quart timbale mold, having previously dredged the but- tered surface of mold with chopped lobster coral. Cover with a greased paper. Poach same as Custard in a slow, moderate oven until firm on top center, or about’ 45 minutes. Serve with any of following sauces: Muslin, Cardinal, or Bechamel. Recipes for Crabs ‘The erabs found on the Atlantic Coast are, small; but on the Pacific Coast the crabs are large, and often one is sufficient to serve half-a-dozen persons. Crabs, like lobsters, shed their shells; and crabs that have a new shell that has not had time to harden are known as ‘‘Soft Shell Crabs.’’ { 296 THE FRENCH CHEF IN BOILED CRABS, ETC.: Crabs should always be boiled alive. Follow direc- tions given at ‘‘Boiled Lobster.’’ Hard-shell crabs have to be boiled and cooled before being prepared in any, other manner; therefore, all the recipes given at Lobster where the lobster has to be boiled first and cooled are also good for crab. These recipes include Lobster 4 la Newburg, Lobster Creole, Lobster Filling for Patties, Shell Cases, ete. ; Deviled’ Lobster, Curried Lobster, and ‘Lobster in Shell. The crab meat, cut into dice or scallops, may be re-heated in any of the following hot sauces: Deviled, Currie, Cream, Bechamel, Cardinal, or Borde- laise Sauces. To Clean a Hard-Shell Crab, boil live crab as above, _ cool it, and remove shell; then remove branchias and spongy substances. Carefully, without breaking its shape, remove the meat from the translucent shell and break the claws and remove their meat. CRAB TIMBALES: : _ Same as Lobster Timbale, substituting crab meat for lobster. CRAB FILLING FOR PATTIES, ETC.: Substituting flaked crab meat for lobster, proceed as directed at ‘‘Lobster Filling for Patties, Shell, Cases,’’ ete. FRIED SOFT-SHELL CRAB: Soft-shell crabs are kept alive in a cold place, in a box of seaweed, until the time of cooking. To clean, wash, lift, and fold back the loose covering and carefully remove spongy substance. Thoroughly wash, then gently wipe perfectly dry between towels. Clean crabs and wipe dry, as above. Dredge with salt and pepper. Roll in cracker crumbs and beaten egg, then in cracker or bread crumbs. Fry 3 or 4at a time, in hot, deep fat, 3 or 4 minutes until crisp and of a rich golden color. Arrange on a hot dish and garnish PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 297 « with parsley and quartered lemon. Send separately in a boat a hot Tartar or Bearnaise Sauce. BROILED SOFT-SHELL CRAB: Clean crabs and wipe dry, roll in melted butter seas- oned with salt and pepper, and also, if desired, in bread crumbs. Broil as usual, over a hot, clear fire, about 4 minutes on each side, to a rich, golden color. Arrange cooked crabs on buttered toast, and garnish with parsley and slices of lemon. BOILED CRAWFISH: Allow live crawfish to run in cold water one hour; then drain. Under the tail of each, seize the black in- testinal vein between the edge of a small knife and the fore-finger, and draw it full length off, as any part left in will make the flavor bitter. Seize crawfish by the back and immerse head first in boiling Court-Bouillon to cover. When boiling again, remove to a slow fire and simmer 10 minutes, adding to each quart of bouillon a teaspoon of salt. Allow thé crawfish to cool in its own liquor. ° Crawfish are often used as a garnishing to fish entrées, but by themselves are a luxury when the Court Bouillon has added to it a cup of white wine. _ Recipes for Oysters, Clams, and Mussels The edible marine bivalve mollusk include Oysters, | Mussels, and Clams. OYSTERS: The best--edible marine bivalve mollusks are the oysters. These are of easy digestibility, especially when eaten raw on half-shell and when very fresh. They are, therefore, recommended for sick people and convalescents. ~The oyster mollusk is attached to the valve on which it lies by a tough membrane, which is removed when the oysters are shelled. Always keep the oysters over ice. The smaller variety, such as blue-points or other small oysters, are best suited to be served raw on half-shell or to 298 THE FRENCH CHEF IN make cocktails, reserving the larger kind to be fried, baked, or stewed. , Oysters require very little cooking, as they are cooked enough when, simmering in their own liquor, they have become plump and their fluted edge or gills have curled. Oysters are best in the winter months, or from October to February. Raw oysters on half-shell are served as a first course at a luncheon or dinner. OYSTERS ON HALF-SHELL: Wash, scrub, and rinse oysters thoroughly. Using a special oyster knife, open, exposing the mollusk on the shallow shell. Carefully detach the oyster by cutting through tough membrane close to shell. Open the oysters shortly before being needed; and, if any broken bits of shell, wash thoroughly. Serve from 5 to 6 oysters to each service on broken ice. Place in center a quartered lemon. Occasionally Tabasco is served with oysters, also thin slices of buttered brown bread, or, they may be served with a Mignonette Sauce made as follows: Mignonette Sauce, for Oysters on Half-shell: Grate 1 tablespoon of whole black or white pepper, the latter preferred. Add 1% teaspoon of salt and 34 cup of mild white wine vinegar, and, very thinly chopped, the white part of 2 tender green onions and a teaspoon of chive. Make this sauce a few hours before serving, and blend before serving. 7 OYSTER COCKTAIL, I: Oyster cocktails are served in cocktail glasses and should be thoroughly chilled before serving over shredded ice in double glass. For*each service use 5 or 6 small blue-point oysters or an equal bulk of other small oysters. It requires twenty oysters of the ‘‘California’’ variety for each cocktail. _ The sauce in which they are served should be of a consistency similar.to tomato ketchup, which is often included in its making. The oysters are barely immersed in the sauce, which should always be highly seasoned. To 6 or 7 small blue-point oysters in a chilled PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 299 1 cocktail glass, add about 2 or 8 tablespoons of ‘‘ Oyster Cocktail Catsup.’’ Chill. OYSTER COCKTAIL, II: To 6 or 7 small blue-point oysters in a chilled cocktail glass add 14% tablespoons of tomato ketchup, 14 ‘tea- spoon of lemon juice, 1 or 2 drops of Tabasco, as much Worcestershire Sauce, and a.few grains of salt, to taste.. To this cocktail may be added % teaspoon of horse- radish thinly grated from the root; if using bottled horse-radish, use a little less lemon juice. Or, to either “one of the cocktails add a teaspoon of crisp, tender, white celery stalk, very thinly chopped, or, a drop of onion’ juice. FRIED OYSTERS: Select choice oysters of ever size, 6 for each service: Drain, and -wipe between towels, taking care to remove bits of shell and tough membrane; roll in cracker meal in a beaten egg to which 2 or 3 tablespoons of milk have been added, 14 teaspoon of salt, a few grains of Cayenne, and a few drops of lemon juice, then roll in: sifted fresh-grated crumbs of stale bread; or, roll only with cracker meal. Fry in hot, deep fat about 1 minute, to a crisp golden color, Oysters are cooked when browned. Fry small batches at a time. Drain on brown paper at oven, door open. Serve crisp-and hot on napkin, garnished around with lemon and parsley. If desired send separately a Phila- delphia Relish. PHILADELPHIA RELISH: 2 cups erisp, dry cabbage, 24 teaspoon celery seed very thinly chopped 1% teaspoon salt ¥ cup green bell pepper, very 3 or 4 tablespoons mild vinegar thinly chopped 3 tablespoons brown sugar ~~ % teaspoon mustard seed - Mix cabbage and bell pepper in a bowl, and set“over ice until needed. Mix the other ingredients a few hours before needed. When ready to serve, combine and mix the two mixtures in the chilled bowl. ‘ 300 THE FRENCH CHEF IN MOCK FRIED OYSTERS: Out of a thin slice of Halibut, cut small oval pieces the size of am oyster, and, with these, proceed as at “‘Pried Oysters.’’ BAKED OYSTERS IN SHELL: Wash, scrub with a brush, and rinse 4 or 5 fresh, unshelled oysters for each service. Arrange the oysters in a dripping pan, deep shell downwards, and bake in a hot oven till the shells separate. Do not bake too long, or oysters will become tough. It may be necessary to open some of them when done. Remove to hot serving dish, and pour on each oyster a teaspoon of the following mix- ture: Cream 2 tablespoons of butter, add a few grains of salt, a dash of Paprika or a drop of Tabasco, and %% teaspoon of lemon juice. t OYSTER A LA UNION LEAGUE CLUB: Arrange, in a dripping pan, some freshly opened, rather large oysters on half-shell, deep shell downwards, using 4 oysters for each service. For 6 persons prepare the following mixture and divide between all the oysters ‘in shell: Rub in a warm bowl a piece of butter the size. of a large egg. When creamy add a dash of salt, and a drop of Tabasco or % teaspoon of Paprika, and thinly chopped, 1 tablespoon of parsley and a small teaspoon of chive. Add a few drops of lemon juice. Cover each. oyster with a thin slice of good breakfast bacon. Bake on top grate of a hot oven about 10 minutes, or remove as soon as the bacon is crisp. Remove the oysters to serving dish, arrange around them a wreath of parsley, and place in center a quartered lemon. OYSTERS A LA MONTMARTE: ; Arrange in a dripping pan say 2 dozen opened blue- point oysters on half shell, deep. shell downwards, using 4 oysters for each service. Dredge over each oyster a few grains of salt and pepper, spread, and divide between / PRIVATE “AMERICAN FAMILIES 301 them the following mixture: Melt 2 tablespoons of but- ter, mix in % cup of fresh grated crumbs, and, stirring, add 34 cup of fresh-grated horse-radish root, 1 table- spoon of.chopped parsley, 114 tablespoons of grated Parmesan or Gruyére cheese, and a few drops of onion juice. Bake 10 minutes in hot oven. Garnish with parsley and quartered lemon. OYSTERS A LA POULETTE: For 6 persons. Wash and rinse, and remove bits of shell and tough parts of 3 dozen shelled oysters. To 1% cup of strained oyster liquor add one cup of chicken stock, or include as a part of the liquid some mush- room liquor. Set it over a slow fire, and add a ‘‘spice bag’’ holding a sprig of sweet thyme, a slice of onion, 2 sprigs of parsley, a clove, and a few pepper-corns. Add ' the oysters, and simmer until the oysters are plump and the edges curled. Strain. Reserve the oysters. With the strained liquor, make a Poulette Sauce. Re-heat, with- out boiling the oysters in the sauce. -Add a little cream. BROILED OYSTERS: Rinse shelled oysters in a little cold water, using 4 or 5 oysters for each service. Drain and wipe perfectly dry between towels. Roll in melted butter seasoned with a little salt, pepper, and 2 drops of lemon juice; then roll in sifted bread crumbs, freshly grated, of stale bread, or in cracker meal. Arrange over a hot greased broiler, and broil over a hot clear fire about 114 minutes on each side. Serve with a Maitre d’ Hotel Butter and quartered lemon. PANNED OYSTERS: Rinse, clean, and wipe between towels 4 large, shelled oysters for each service. Put 1 or 2 tablespoons of butter in a frying pan over the fire, and when hot, while shaking the pan, arrange in it the oysters. Put at once in a hot oven, and bake on top grate till the oysters are plump. - Arrange the oysters on buttered toast on a hot serving dish, 4 oysters on each piece of toast. To liquor in pan 302 THE FRENCH CHEF IN add a little butter, a dash of salt, and a few grains of pepper. Stir until it-bubbles, then pour over the oysters. Garnish with quartered lemon and parsley. PARBOILED OYSTERS AND SAUCES TO RE- HEAT THEM: Clean tht oysters, removing bits of shell and tough parts. Simmer the oysters in their own liquor until they become plump and the fluted edges begin to curl. Oysters should: never be allowed to boil. Parboiled oysters may be re-heated in any of the following sauces: Mornay, Currie, Cream, Cardinal, Poulette, or a Brown Sauce in which may be stirred 1 ounce of Anchovy Butter. OYSTERS IN CREAM, for Filling Patties, Shells, Cases, Etc.: Prepare a Thick White Sauce II. Season it with a little celery salt or beat in 1 ounce of any of the following butters: Shrimp, Crab, Lobster, or Anchovy Butter. Season as needéd. In this re-heat the oysters without boiling. OYSTERS CROMESQUIS: Cut into small dice enough parboiled oysters to obtain 1 cup. Cut into same shape 6 canned mushrooms and 24 cup of left-over white chicken meat, skin and gristle remoyed. Simmer for a few minutes a few thin slices - of onion in 11% tablespoons of butter. Remove onion, add chicken, and, while shaking pan over a slow moderate fire, cook until the butter is absorbed. Bring to a boil a eup of liquor, which may consist, as available, of oysters or mushroom liquor and Chicken Stock, Melt Y cup of butter in a small saucepan over the fire, and blend in 14 cup of flour and_a few grains of Cayenne. Dilute it with the hot liquor, while stirrifiz the bottom constantly with a wooden spatula till smooth and thick. Continue stirring, adding 14 cup of thin cream and % teaspoon of salt. Stir. till smooth and bub- bling. Set pan in a bath of hot water, then beat in 2 4 PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 303 slightly-beaten egg-yolks. Stir and cook in hot water until the eggs are set and thick. Gently mix in the diced ingredients, turn them onto a buttered dish, and cool. Divide the mixture into balls the size of a small egg, and shaped like a cork. Wrap each oné in a thin slice of bacon or ecalf’s caul. Fasten with buttered toothpicks, dip in a Batter II, and fry in hot, deep fat to a delicate golden color. Rethove toothpicks, and serve on napkin. Send separately a Cardinal Sauce in a boat. OYSTER CROQUETTES: Same as preceding recipe, leaving out the bacon or ealf’s caul, and Batter II, and rolling the shaped cro- - quettes in crumbs and beaten egg, and in crumbs. Fry in hot, deep fat to a golden color and crisp. Serve on folded napkin with quartered lemon. Send in a boat separately any of the following sauces: Cardinal, Cream, or White Sauce. At option leave out the chicken meat and mushrooms, replacing them by an equal amount, of oysters. OYSTER-AND-CORN FRITTERS: Rub through’a sieve,34 cup of canned corn. Add to this pulp an egg beaten till light, 14. teaspoon of salt and a few grains of Cayenne. Beat in about 14 cup of flour sifted with a teaspoon of baking powder.. It may be necessary to add a little sifted flour to obtain a thick batter, which dropped from a tablespoon into hot, deep _ fat, will retain its shape. If batter is too thick, add a little cream; if too thin, add flour. Wipe some par- ‘boiled oysters between towels. Dredge them with a little salt and pepper. Fill a tablespoon with the batter, not quite full, and place on center an oyster, pressing lightly on it. Cover with some of the batter, then, using fore- finger, press it out, dropping it into the hot, deep fat. Fry about five or six minutes im hot deep fat to a golden color. é OYSTER TIMBALE: Proceed exactly as at Fish Timbale I, using diced par- boiled oysters as a part or all of the solid material en- tered into the filling sauce. 304 THE FRENCH CHEF IN f OYSTERS AU GRATIN: 1 pint cleaned oysters ¥% cup thin cream 1% cups bread crumbs or part %% teaspoon salt cracker crumbs 1 teaspoon white pepper % cup melted butter At option, a little onion ¥% cup oyster liquor juice t Pour the melted butter over the crumbs. Spread 4 of the buttered crumbs in a buttered glass oven gratin dish. Arrange over it half of the oysters, and dredge over oysters half of the seasoning. Mix oyster liquor and cream, pour half of it over this layer, and repeat a layer of buttered crumbs, oysters, and seasoning.. Add remaining liquor. Dredge over oysters some buttered crumbs. Bake 25 minutes in a quick, moderate oven, CLAMS ON HALF-SHELL: When fresh, little-neck clams are ‘opened same as oysters and served in the same manner (see, ‘‘Oysters on Half-Shell’’). . es BAKED LITTLE-NECK CLAMS ON HALF- SHELL: Open 3 dozen scrubbed and rinsed little-neck clams. Arrange these on half-shell, deep shell- downwards, in a pan. Dredge over a little salt and pepper, then spread and divide between clams the following mixture: Rub to a cream 1 ounce of butter. While stirring, add a drop of Tabasco, 14 teaspoon’ of onion juice, and, very thinly chopped, 2 tablespoons of mushroom buttons, a tender shallot, and a teaspoon of parsley. Add 1 table- spoon of lemon juice. Or, follow directions given at ‘‘Oysters a la Union League Club”’ or ‘‘ Oysters 4 la Montmarte.’’ CLAMS AU GRATIN: Substitute clams for oysters and proceed. as at ‘*Oysters au Gratin.’’ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 305 STEAMED CLAMS: Rub clams with a brush in a change of water, rinse, and drain. Put about % cup of water in a kettle over a good fire. When boiling arrange in the clams, tightly cover, and cook till the clams are partly opened, shaking the kettle occasionally, and drain. Do not cook too long. Lift up and remove upper shell, and quickly arrange the clams on a folded napkin. Garnish with parsley and quartered lemon. Strain the clam liquor through a doubled cheese-cloth, holding back any sand at bottom of kettle. Send it hot in a boat. FRIED CLAMS: Steam some clams as above, remove shells, wipe be- tween towels, dip in a Batter I or II, and fry in hot, deep fat to a golden color. - BAKED CLAMS IN SHELL: Rub the live clams in a change of water, rinse, and drain. Cook as directed at ‘‘Baked Oysters in Shell.’’ MUSSELS MARINIERE: Wash, scrape, scrub, and rinse the mussels. Drain. Place in a kettle with a tablespoon of butter, a fine sliced carrot and onion, and a slice of garlic. Add a few sprigs of parsley, and a dash each of salt and pepper. Tightly cover, set over a brisk fire, and, while shaking the pan often to prevent the mussels from scorching at bottom, cook till the mussels are open or partly open. Serve -at once on a hot dish, one shell removed. Strain the liquor through a doubled cheese-cloth, holding back any sand, and pour it hot over the mussels. MUSSELS A LA POULETTE: : Shell 2 pounds of mussels cooked as directed in pre- eeding recipe and-strain liquor as directed there. Skim off the fat on top, add enough combined Chicken Stock, mushroom liquor and cream to obtain 114 cups of liquor. - Melt 214 tablespoons of butter in a saucepan over the fire, blend in as much flour, a few grains of Cayenne, and, while stirring constantly with a wooden spatula, dilute x 306 THE FRENCH CHEF IN with the hot liquor. Stir till smooth and boiling, then remove to a slow fire, and simmer 10 minutes. Remove pan to a hot water bath, beat in 2 slightly-beaten egg- yolks, and 14 teaspoon of lemon juice, and cook in hot water till the eggs are set. Season as needed with salt and pepper. Beat well before adding the mussels. MUSSELS AU GRATIN: : Shell 2 pounds of mussels cooked as in preceding recipe, and, with them and the strained liquor, proceed as directed at ‘‘Oysters au Gratin.’’ hy Preparation of Terrapin Let two live terrapin run an hour in cold water. Immerse them head first into boiling salted water, enough to cover. Add a clove inserted in an onion and a kitchen bouquet. Bring to a boil, and simmer 5 minutes. With skimmer, lift out the terrapin, and, with towels, remove the skin. Return the terrapin to boiling water, bring it again to a boil, remove kettle to a slow fire, let simmer 40 minutes or util tender, and drain. Immerse in cold water a few seconds, then lift terrapin out. Break the shell apart, take off legs and head, cut the head through the eyes, take all the meat off, and discard the gall and bladder, sand bags, and intestines. Reserve the liver, washed, and the eggs, if any, skins removed. Draw the nails from the feet. Cut the meat and liver in even pieces, and place on a dish with the eggs. . TERRAPIN A LA MARYLAND: Prepare. 2 terrapin as directed above. Put in a bowl the terrapin egg-yolks freed of their skins. Simmer the terrapin in 114 tablespoons of melted butter until the butter is absorbed, occasionally shaking the pan. Dredge over a little salt and white pepper. Add % cup of sherry and simmer until nearly dry. Cover and place in hot water te keep hot. Heat 14 cup of sherry to a bubble and while beating the terrapin egg-yolks in bowl slowly add a little sherry. Continue beating and add the egg mixture to the sherry and cook without boiling PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES | 307 t until the eggs are set. Or, leaving out the eggs, thicken the sherry as usual with a Blond Roux. Keep hot until needed. Rub 6 hard-boiled egg-yolks, with 1 ounce of fine butter added, through a fine sieve into a saucepan or double boiler. Adda dash of Cayenne and 14 teaspoon of salt. Ten minutes before serving, while beating con- stantly, set over a slow moderate heat and slowly add 114 cups of thin warmed cream. Beat, and cook without boil- ing until it masks a spoon. Combine the three hot mix- tures and correct seasoning to suit the taste. If desired, add a dash of nutmeg and allspice. Serve at once in a heated silver chafing-dish. \ TERRAPIN A LA BALTIMORE: Wrap ina ‘‘spice bag’’ a few sprigs of parsley, a sprig of sweet thyme, 2 crushed shallots, a clove, a tea- spoon of pepper-corn, and a quarter of a bay leaf. Have ready two prepared terrapin, cooked and cut into pieces as directed above (‘‘Preparation of Terrapin’’). Turn into a saucepan; add spice bag, 1 cup of sherry, and 14 teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil and simmer till liquor, is reduced to 14 cup. Add 114 cups of Espagnole or rich Brown Sauce. Shake pan to mix while simmering a few minutes. Season if needed with a few grains of Cayenne. Remove spice bag. Serve on buttered toast. Garnish with toast points. FRIED FROG LEGS: Skin the hind legs, and let stand 2 hours in cold water. . Drain, and wipe between towels. Put into a bowl, dredge over a little salt, a little pepper, and a few drops of lemon juice. Add a few thin slices of onion and a few sprigs of parsley. Turning over occasionally, let stand 2 hours, then drain, and wipe between towels. Roll in flour and fry as usual to a crisp, delicate golden color, in hot, deep fat. Garnish with Fried Parsley. Serve at once. FROG LEGS ALA POULETTE: Skin the hind legs and soak 2 hours in cold water. Drain, and wipe dry between towels. Simmer over a 308 THE FRENCH CHEF IN slow fire, in a small saucepan in 2 tablespoons of melted butter, a sliced onion and shallot. Remove the vege- tables. Sauté the frog legs in the butter left in the pan a few minutes or until tender (they must not take any color), tossing or gently stirring. Dredge over a little salt and white pepper. When done, turn the drained frog legs into a Poulette Sauce. Shake pan to mix. If desired, add a few canned mushrooms cut in two length- wise. Serve on buttered toast. Garnish with toast points. Utilize the butter left in pan to make the sauce. Recipes for Salted Fish SALTED CODFISH IN CREAM: When the fish is freshly salted and soft, break it into pieces and pick. Turn it into-a kettle in slightly luke- warm water, more than enough to cover, and allow it to stand over a slow fire until tender, then drain. It should not boil, the time of cdoking depending on hard- ness and saltness of fish. When the fish is long salted aud hard, it should’ be soaked from 2 to 12 hours in a change of cold water, the time of soaking depending on saltiness and dryness of fish. Drain. Put in a kettle with cold water more than sufficient to cover, and cook as above till tender. Drain. Remove skins and bones, flake the fish, and turn into “a White or Cream Sauce in which the salt has been omitted. SALTED CODFISH AU GRATIN: Butter a gratin dish. Using pastry bag and tube, force around border a ring of Potato Croquette mixture. Fill the center with a mixture as made in preceding article. Dredge over top some grated cheese and but- tered crumbs, or simply dredge with crumbs. If de- sired add some sliced canned mushrooms to the codfish mixture. Brush potato ring with a beaten egg-yolk. Bake to a delicate golden color. Avoid letting the mix- ture bubble. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 309. SALTED CODFISH MAITRE D’HOTEL: Prepare, blanch, drain, pick, and flake the codfish as done at ‘Salted Codfish’ in Cream,’’ and, while hot, spread over it a Maitre d’Hotel Butter. Serve at once. CODFISH:A LA LYONNAISE: | Peel and cut lengthwise into quarters 2 or 3 white, tender onions, then thinly slice crosswise. Melt 3 table- spoons of butter in a frying-pan over a slow fire, add the onions, and cook 20 or 25 minutes, or until tender and very slightly amber-colored, stirring occasionally. Add, if desired, 2 peeled cold boiled potatoes, quartered and sliced thin crosswise. Remove pan to a moderate fire. Sauté a few minutes, then gently stir-in 2 cups of flaked, blanched codfish. Cook, tossing 4 few minutes, until all the butter is absorbed. Dredge over white pepper as needed. As soon as the surface underneath is amber- colored, turn over. Cook a minute, then shape the mix- ture as an omelet. Cook till under surface is a little browned, invert on a hot dish, and dredge over some ‘chopped parsley. SALT CODFISH BALLS: Blanch and flake say 1 pound of salted codfish as directed at ‘‘Salted Codfish in Cream.’’ Pound to a paste in a mortars while adding 1 egg-white. Then con- tinue pounding while adding 1 cup of left-over boiled potatoes forced through a*potato ricer, and 14 teaspoon of white pepper. Pound to a smooth paste. Shape into balls the size of an egg, flatten them to 1 inch thick, roll in flour, shake off superfluous flour, and fry in hot, deep fat to a delicate golden. color. Serve over a Cream or a White Sauce. SALT CODFISH, FAMILY STYLE: For this dish only the best quality of fresh salted cod- fish can be used. Carefully flake and pick the fish. Soak 2 hours in cold water. Peel as much potatoes as you have fish, cut them_into four lengthwise, and thinly slice a 310 THE FRENCH CHEF:IN crosswise. Soak them 2 hours. Drain codfish and po- tatoes. Arrange and mix the potatoes and codfish in a kettle. Add rich milk to cover, and simmer till the pota- toes are soft. Two minutes before done, add, cut into bits, 1 ounce of butter kneaded with as much flour. Shake pan to mix ingredients. Season as needed with white pepper. Or, to a salted codfish in’ cream mixture, add some hot boiled potatoes peeled, quartered, and sliced eross- wise. Shake pan to mix. Season as needed. BOILED SALT MACKEREL: Wash a salted mackerel and soak it overnight in cold water enough to cover. Drain, and put over fire with . water to which milk has been ‘added, enough to cover. : Simmer about 12 minutes or until tenderx Thoroughly drain. Arrange ona napkin, and garnish with quartered lemon and parsley. Send in a boat a Cream Sauce, sep- arately, or a melted butter flavored to suit the taste with chopped parsley and lemon juice. To the cooking fish add, if desired, a teaspoon of vinegar or a slice of lemon, a clove driven into a half- onion, and sprigs of parsley. BROILED FINNAN HADDIE: Brush half a Finnan Haddie with oil. Arrange it on a hot, greased broiler and broil over a moderately hot, clear fire to a nice brown color. Remove fish to a basin holding hot water to just cover fish, and let stand 6 to 10 minutes, according to thickness. Drain thoroughly. Remove fish to hot serving dish and spread over it a creamed butter to which has been added a little pepper. Garnish with quartered lemon and parsley. FINNAN HADDIE IN CREAM: Put into a pudding dish one-half of a Finnan Haddie eut into fourths. Cover with cold water. Bring to a bubble, then remove to back of stove where it will threaten to boil, but not quite, for 25 minutes or till tender. Drain ’thoroughly. Remove skin and bones, \ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 311 flake it, and turn into a hot White or Cream Sauce from which the salt has been omitted. Season as needed. \ Ways of Utilizing Left-Over Fish FISH FORCEMEAT WITH LEFT-OVER: ; Although foreemeat is best when made with raw-fish, it may be made with cooked white, firm fish, such as halibut, bass, codfish, etc. Remove bones, skin, and gristle, and proceed as directed at ‘‘Fish Forcemeat,’’ I or II or ‘‘Fish rem Boece I or I. POACHED FISH QUENELLES, I: Using left-over firm fish, prepare a Fish Cream Force- meat, reserving of the fish some oval-shaped rather thin scallops the size of a teaspoon. Dredge with a few grains of salt and pepper. Dip 2 tablespoons in boiling water. Lift and fill each with the forcemeat mixture, arranging to have the sides level with the forcemeat and center a little hollow. Arrange in cavity of one of them a reserved scallop of.fish. Sandwich contents of the tablespoons, press together to firmly shape an oval ball, lift off one spoon, then, using fore-finger, press out into boiling salted water set over a. slow fire. Poach about 10 minutes, keeping the water just under boiling point. Prepare and cook in a like manner 1 ball for each service. Serve on a hot dish over a hot Tartar or Italian Sauce. POACHED FISH QUENELLES, IIT: Same as preceding, only substitute for each scallop of fish a half parboiled oyster or 3 shelled shrimps. FRIED FISH QUENELLES: Prepare, stuff, and poach some Fish Quenelles as in either of the two preceding recipes. Drain, and dry on astrainer. Roll in beaten egg, seasoned with salt and pepper, then roll in crumbs. Fry in hot deep fat to a delicate golden color. Drain on brown paper. ‘Arrange on a hot dish over a hot sauce, either Tartar or Monte- bello. , 312 THE FRENCH CHEF IN FISH CROQUETTES WITH LEFT-OVER: To a cup of hot Thick White Sauce I, add and mix in 11% to 1% cups of flaked left-over fish, skin, bones, and gristle removed. If desired, enter as a part of the solid material a few diced blanched mushrooms or chopped hard-boiled eggs. Season as needed with salt and white pepper. Spread. mixture on a buttered dish to cool. Shape like a cork or a cutlet. Roll in cracker meal, beaten egg and crumbs. Fry in hot, deep fat to a nice golden color. Serve with any of following hot sauces: Cream, Tartar, Muslin, Caper, ete. FISH IN CREAM WITH LEFT-OVER: Flake some left-over fish, removing skin and gristle. For 1144 cups of fish, melt over a slow fire in a small saucepan 14% tablespoons of butter. In this simmer a -few slices of onion for a few minutes. Remove onion. Simmer the prepared fish a few minutes in butter left in pan, while shaking pan till the butter is absorbed. Turn into a cup of -White or Cream Sauce, shake pan to mix till re-heated to nearly the boiling point, and season as needed with salt and a few grains of Cayenne: FISH IN CREAM WITH POTATO RING: Prepare and cook a ‘‘Fish in Cream with Left-Over’’ as directed above, and with it proceed as directed at “Salted Codfish au Gratin.’’ Serve on same dish. FISH HASH OR MINCED FISH: Using potatoes cooked the day before, peel boiled or baked potatoes and thinly chop. Chop fine as much left- over fish, skins and bones removed, as there are potatoes. Melt 3 tablespoon of butter over a moderate fire, add a sliced onion, and simmer until onion is amber-colored. Remove onion, and in its place add the thoroughly mixed potatoes and fish. Dredge over 14 teaspoon of salt and a good dash of white pepper, shake the pan occasionally and cook until the lower surface is golden-colored, then turn over. Cook a few minutes, then shape as omelet. ‘ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 313 ‘When under surface is browned, invert it onto a hot dish, and dredge over some chopped parsley. Salt pork may be substituted for the butter, in which case, try out the salt pork, diced, remove scraps, and proceed as above. FISH IN SHELL: e Mix a teaspoon of grated cheese and some flaked remnant fish,-skin and gristle removed, in a Thick White Sauce IT. Season as needed with salt and pepper. Ar- range mixture in buttered shells. Dredge over grated cheese and bread crumbs. Bake 20 minutes to a delicate golden color. ‘Or, as a variation, substitute for White Sauce any of the following : “Tomato, Spanish, Brown, or Bechamel Sauce. COLD FISH A LA VINAIGRETTE: Using any white remnant fish broken into flakes, skin and gristle removed, gently mix in a Vinaigrette Dress- ing. Let stand a few hours in a cold place. Pile on a chilled dish, and garnish around with parsley and lemon slices. May be served as a main course of a hot-day summer lunch. ~ _ 314 ‘' THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHAPTER XII HOT ENTREES Sweersreaps, Brains, Kipneys, Liver TONGUE, ETC. Recipes for Sweetbreads Gy WEEE RAD spoil quickly and should be par- boiled as soon as they come from the market, and pressed into shape as directed below. Sweetbreads should be bought by sets, each set consisting of two parts con- nected by a tube and membranes. Remove blood by soaking for about 2 hours in a change of cold water or till perfectly white. It is de- sirable before soaking to split open the connecting tube without separating the two sweetbreads. Drain, turn the sweetbreads into enough boiling water to cover, and° simmer 15 minutes; then drain again. Immerse a min- ute in plenty of cold water, and drain. Remove connect- ing tube and skins, arrange between two light dishes in a cold place to cool, then press into shape. All the recipes given for calves’ sweetbreads are good also for lamb’s sweetbreads. Sweetbreads are often larded with thin lardoons of salt pork or truffle. SWEETBREADS AU JUS: Prepare 2 or 3 sets of sweetbreads as above, parboil 15 minutes and press into shape. Insert into their smooth est surfaces thin lardoons of lard-pork. Place in a Dutch oven pot or in a shallow, thick pan of selected size, 1 onion, 1 carrot, and trimmings of salt pork, all thinly sliced. Arrange the sweetbreads over this, and sprinkle over a little salt and pepper. Baste with a little melted butter, and, gently shaking pot, cook 8 or 10 minutes; then add 1 cup of hot reduced Consommé. Cover with a greased paper. Cook in a moderate oven till tender, 50 minutes to an hour. Baste occasionally with liquor PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 315 in pan to glaze them and turn over once. Arrange on buttered toast on hot serving ‘dish. Reserve hot. Strain liquor, free it of fat, and give a bubble. Mask sweet- breads with sauce, and garnish with toast points. If a thicker sauce is desired, you may add a cup of Brown Sauce or stir in the bubbling liquor a teaspoon of cornstarch kneaded with a teaspoon of creamed butter, or again, thicken as usual with a Brown Roux. SWEETBREADS A LA POULETTE: Soak two sets of sweetbreads as above and parboil 5 minutes. Drain, remove inedible parts, and wipe between towels. Melt 4 tablespoons of butter over a slow fire, and when hot but not colored, arrange in the sweet- breads, and cook a few minutes, turning over as needed: so they do'not color. Remove sweetbreads, and reserve. With the butter left in pan and 4 tablespoons of pastry flour and a small dash of white pepper, make a White Roux. Dilute it as usual with a pint of White or Chicken Stock. Stir or beat until smooth and boiling throughout, then add the sweetbreads. When boiling again, remove to a slow fire, and simmer bubbling at one point until tender, about an hour. Five minutes before done, add a dozen small canned mushroom bottoms, and when done, set pan in a bath of hot water. “While stirring two egg- yolks in a bowl, add a teaspoon of lemon juice and a little-of the hot sauce. Combine the two mixtures, while cooking and stirring them, the pan always kept in hot water, until the eggs are set. Season as needed. Arrange the sweetbreads over buttered toast on a hot dish, mask them with the sauce, and add the mushrooms.’ Garnish with toast points. ‘ SWEETBREADS A LA PARISIENNE: For 6 persons order as many compact sweetbreads. Parboil 5 minutes and press into shape as directed above. Insert on smoothest surfaces of sweetbreads alternate rows of thin lardoons of truffle and salt pork. . Cook 8 minutes over a bed of sliced vegetables and salt pork trimmings, as at ‘‘Sweetbreads au Jus.’’ Then add a 316 THE FRENCH CHEF IN © gill of sherry, and cook until nearly dry. Add a cup of hot reduced Consommé, then finish cooking the sweet- breads and make the sauce as directed at ‘‘Sweetbreads au Jus.’ ~ Prepare a Chicken. Cream Forcemeat. Line with buttered paper a tin that exactly fits the serving dish. Spread a layer an inch thick of above forcemeat. Cover with greased paper and bake in a slow moderate oven till firm. Invert on a hot serving dish, and heap on the center a vegetable purée made of either cauliflower, arti- choke bottoms, or green peas, etc. Dress the sweetbreads on and around it, and garnish the open space between the sweetbreads with blanched mushroom bottoms and slices of truffle. Send the sauce in a boat, separately. SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES: Cut into small dice a cup of sweetbreads cooked directed at ‘‘Sweetbreads au Jus.’’ Cut into same shape ¥Y% eup each of cold boiled lean ham and canned mush- rooms. Mix these in a hot Thick White Sauce I, to which two ege-yolks have been added, and season as needed. Spread mixture on a buttered dish to cool. Shape like a cork or cutlet, roll in crumbs, beaten egg and again in crumbs. and fry in hot, deep fat to a delicate golden color. Serve on napkin. Send separately in a boat one of the following sauces: Bearnaise, Montebello, or Muslin Sauce. SWEETBREADS WITH VEGETABLE PUREE: Prepare and cook 2 or 3 sets of sweetbreads as di- rected at ‘‘Sweetbreads au Jus.’’ Arrange the sweet- breads over any of the following purées: Green Peas, Artichoke Bottom, Cauliflower, or Chestnut Purée, ete. Garnish with tcast points. Send sauce in a boat, sep- arately. SWEETBREADS WITH VEGETABLES: Prepare and cook the sweetbreads as at ‘‘Sweetbreads au Jus.’’ Pile on center of a hot serving dish any one of the following cooked vegetables: Spinach au Velouté, \ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 317 Vegetables Macedoine, Boiled Green Peas 4 1’ Anglaise, - Asparagus Tips 4 la Frangaise, ete. Dispose the sweet- breads around it and mask them with the sauce. Garnish with toast points. SWEETBREADS AUX FINES HERBES: For 6 persons parboil for 5 minutes 3 sets of sweet- breads as directed above. Arrange at bottom of an oven dish a bed of thin slices of salt pork, and dispose over it the sweetbreads. Thinly chop 1 tablespoon of parsley, 1 green onion, a thin slice of garlic, and 3 peeled. mush- rooms. Knead these with butter the size of a small egg, then dot sweetbreads with bits of-this butter. Sprinkle over 144 teaspoon of salt and a dash of pepper, place over top a few thin slices of lard-pork, add 14 cup of cold Consommé or part white wine, cover with greased paper, and cook in slow oven.an hour and a half, or until tender. When ‘done, arrange the sweetbreads on a hot serving dish, remove lard-pork from liquor, skim off. the fat on top, re-heat, adding a teaspoon of lemon juice, and pour the sauce over the sweetbreads. \ NS BROILED SWEETBREADS: Soak, parboil 5 minutes, and press into shape say 3 sets of sweetbreads, as directed at ‘‘ Preparation of Sweet- breads,’’ etc. Simmer for a few minutes a thinly sliced onion in a tablespoon of melted butter in a saucepan. Add 1 pint of White Stock, and a kitchen bouquet, bring it to a boil, add the sweetbreads, and, when boiling again, remove to a slow fire and simmer until tender or about 50 minutes, adding a teaspoon of salt. Drain, wipe be- tween towels, and cool. Cut each sweetbread in two lengthwise, dredge over a little salt and pepper, and roll in melted butter, and freshly grated bread crumbs. Arrange on a hot greased broiler and broil over a clear hot fire to a delicate brown color. Remove the sweet- breads to a hot serving dish, arrange around them the following blanched vegetables, simmered in a little melted -butter: asparagus tips, artichoke bottoms, and cauli- flower flowerets. 318 THE FRENCH CHEF IN 5 } Send in a boat, separately, any one of the following sauces: Muslin I or II, or a Hollandaise Sauce in’ which have been stirred 3 tablespoons of Tomato Purée or 1 teaspoon of Meat Glaze, or extract. Broiled sweetbreads are occasionally served with a Vegetable Purée. SWEETBREADS A LA VILLEROI: Cut some blanched sweetbreads lengthwise as in preceding recipe, dip in a Villeroi Sauce, and let stand until firm. Roll in beaten egg, seasoned with a little salt and pepper, then in crumbs. Fry in hot deep fat to a delicate golden color. Serve crisp and hot as di- rected in preceding recipe. The liquor in which the sweetbreads’ have been blanched should be utilized to make the Villeroi Sauce. SWEETBREADS A LA FINANCIERE: Prepare and cook 3 sets of sweetbreads as directed at ‘‘Sweetbreads 4 la Parisienne,’’ only using truffle to lard the sweetbreads, or not larding at all. ° When done re- move and reserve hot. Strain the liquor and free it of fat; add, as may be available, 114 cups of liquor Con- sommé, mushroom liquor, ‘or sherry, and a little Meat Glaze. With 3 tablespoons of butter and 314 tablespoons of flour make a Brown Roux. Dilute as usual with the above liquor, beating constantly until smooth and boil- ing. Then remove to a slow fire to simmer bubbling at one point 20 minutes. Skim off fat and frothy matter _ as it appears. Add 12 canned mushroom buttons and simmer 2 minutes; remove the pot to a bath of hot water, and add, if available, 2 or 3 chicken livers eut in halves or fourths, according to size, and previously sauted as directed at ‘‘Chicken Liver Sauted.’’ Arrange the sweetbreads over some buttered toast on a hot serving dish, and around it the mushrooms and liver, and mask the whole with the sauce. Garnish with toast point. If desired, add some poached Chicken Forcemeat Quenelles. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 319 PATTIES, OR VOL AU VENT, ETC., SWEET- BREADS A LA FINANCIERE: Same as preceding, only cut the cooked sweetbreads into even pieces about 1 inch thick and thicken the liquor with 4 tablespoons of butter and 414 tablespoons of Flour. Re-heat, in the sauce, the sweetbreads, mush- rooms, and chicken livers. When ready to serve, fill hot Croustades, Patties, ete. SWEETBREADS AU GRATIN: Cut lengthwise 2 or 3 sets of blanched sweetbreads prepared as at ‘‘Broiled Sweetbreads.’’ Strain the liquor and free it, of fat. Reduce or add White or Chicken stock te obtain 1 pint of liquid, which thicken as usual with a White Roux, beating constantly until smooth and boiling. Remove to a slow fire, let simmer 20 min- utes, and skim. Beat two egg-yolks in a bowl, while adding % cup of cream. Combine with first mixture, and cook, stirring, below boiling point until the eggs are set and thickened. Season as needed with salt and pepper. Pour over the sweetbreads arranged in a but- tered glass oven gratin dish. Dredge over top some grated cheese and buttered crumbs, or simply the crumbs, and bake to a delicate golden color. SWEETBREADS A LA PERIGUEUX: Prepare and cook 2 or 3 sets of sweetbreads as at ‘‘Sweetbreads a la Parisienne,’’ only using truffle to lard the sweetbreads. Serve as there directed, with a Per- igueux Sauce made out of the cooking liquor freed of fat. SWEETBREADS, COUNTRY STYLE: Soak 2 hours, and parboil 5 minutes, say 2 sets of . sweetbreads, and drain. Immerse 2 minutes in plenty of cold water, then drain. Remove inedible parts. Place between 2 light dishes to cool and shape. Dredge over a little salt and pepper, and roll in flour. Polish a pan with oil, arrange the sweetbreads in it, baste them with 320 THE FRENCH CHEF IN melted clarified butter, and set on each one a thin slice of salt pork, to be removed 10 minutes before the sweet- breads are done. Bake about 40 minutes or until tender and nicely golden colored, turn over once and baste oceasionally, twice at first with a tablespoon of melted butter. SWEETBREAD TIMBALE, I: Butter a quart timbale mold, and set at bottom a buttered piece of blank paper. Arrange on bottom and sides of mold a layer of Chicken Bread Panada Force-" meat. Cook 14 pound ‘of sweetbreads as directed at ‘‘Sweetbreads au Jus,’’ and when done, drain. Cut the sweetbreads into small even pieces. Strain the liquor, free it of fat, and add as needed and available, to obtain 1 cup of liquor, either Consommé, Brown Stock, or mush- room liquor. With 314 tablespoons of clarified butter and 14 cup of pastry flour, make a Brown Roux. Dilute it as usual with the above liquor, stir until boiling, then simmer a few minutes, bubbling at one point, seasoning if needed with salt and pepper. Remove from fire, and add the sweetbreads. When cold fill the center of mold, spread over a layer of forcemeat, cover with a greased paper, and poach in slow moderate oven until firm on top center. Unmold hot as usual onto a hot dish. Serve with it-a Mushroom or a Perigueux Sauce. If desired, use less sweetbread, and add a few small canned mushroom buttons. SWEETBREAD TIMBALE, II: Soak a set of sweetbreads 2 hours in a change of cold water or until the blood is thoroughly removed. Drain and wipe between towels. Removing connecting tube , and skins, cut into pieces, and rub through a sieve into a bowl. Add 2% teaspoon of salt and a few grains of Cayenne, then, while beating it, add, one by one, 3 segg-whites, chilled. Continue beating while adding, very slowly at the beginning, 114 cups of chilled thick eream. -Beat well. Turn mixture into buttered individ- ual timbale molds, cover with a greased paper, and poach PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 321 as usual in a slow, moderate oven. Serve the. hot un- molded timbales on a hot dish over a Mushroom or ; Perigueux Sauce. SWEETBREADS CHARTREUSE: Cut while cold an equal amount of blanched red car- rots and turnips that have been cooked separately, in even, long strips the thickness of a small pencil. Wipe between towels. Butter a quart mold generously; press “the carrots and turnips onto bottom and side of mold, alternating them_as to color in a decorative manner, to entirely screen surface of the mold. Chill until firm. Spread over the vegetables a layer 14 inch thick of Chicken Panada Forcemeat; then finish with same in- gredients as Sweetbread: Timbale I. Recipes for Calves’ Brains, etc. Calves’ brains are best, but when not -available, lambs’, brains may be substituted, 2 or 3 sets of lambs’ brains taking the place of 1 set of calves’ brains. The brains should always be very fresh; therefore, soak, prepare, and blanch them as soon as obtained. i To Prepare the Brains, soak them 1 hour in a change of cold water, then, letting the water run on them slowly, with tips of fingers remove skins and clotted bloed. Wash, rinse, and drain. BOILED CALVES’ BRAINS: Soak and clean as above. Using enough water to eover the brains, to 1 pint of water add a teaspoon of salt, a teaspoon of vinegar, a few pepper-corns, a clove driven in a half-onion, and a small kitchen bouquet. Bring to a boil, and simmer 20 minutes. Add the brains, and when boiling again, remove to a.slow fire to simmer 15 minutes. Remove and let cool in their own liquor. Set in a cold place to use as directed. Or, drain the hot brains and serve with any one of following sauces: Bearnaise, Vinaigrette, or a highly “seasoned Tomato or Montebello Sauce. it my 322 THE FRENCH CHEF IN ny CALVES’ BRAINS, BROWN BUTTER: Calves’ brain boiled as above or re-heated in their own liquor, are drained and cut in two lengthwise., Ar- range them on a hot serving dish, dredge over some chopped parsley, pour over a very hot Brown Butter Sauce, and garnish with ‘‘Fried Parsley.’’ Two sets of calves’ brains will serve 6 or 8 persons. CALVES’ BRAINS CUTLETS: For a service of 6 persons boil as above 3 calves’ brains or 11% sets, and drain. Wipe carefully between towels to remove moisture and rub through a purée strainer. In a saucepan with a thick bottom, make a Blond Roux as usual, with 3 tablespoons of butter and as much flour, adding a dash of Cayenne. Then, while stirring constantly with a wooden spatula at bottom of pan, gradually add the brain purée. Cook and stir until very thick, correcting the seasoning to suit taste. Turn onto a buttered dish to cool. Shape 6° balls, roll in - cracker meal, flatten into cutlet shape, roll in beaten egg seasoned with salt and pepper, and in crumbs. Fry in deep, hot fat to a nice golden color. Insert in each cutlet a piece of macaroni on which set a chop frill. Serve at once, overlapping, with a Hollandaise, Bear- naise, Hot Tartar, Caper or a highly seasoned Tomato Sauce. CALVES’ BRAINS AU GRATIN: - Blanch 11% sets of calves’ brains as at ‘‘ Boiled Calves” Brains.’’ Drain, and wipe between towels. Cut into - thick scallops, and arrange, overlapping, in a buttered glass oven gratin dish. Add 1 pint of White or Poulette Sauce to barely cover the brains. Dredge over top grated cheese and buttered crumbs. Bake to a delicate golden color. Serve in same dish. FRIED CALVES’ BRAINS: Cut in two lengthwise some cold boiled calves’ brains. Roll in cracker meal and beaten egg, to which 3 table- spoons of milk have been added, 14 teaspoon' of salt and PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 323 a little pepper, then roll in crumbs again. Fry in: hot, deep fat to a delicate golden color. Serve with any one of the following hot sauces: Tartar, Muslin, Mayon- naise, Victor Hugo, Bearnaise, Montebello, etc. Or, leaying out the crumbing, dip the brains in a Batter I or II ‘and fry as above. CALVES’ BRAINS FILLING, for Patty Shells, Cases, Ramequins, Etc. - Cut in pieces 14 inch thick some ebld boiled calves’ brains. Re- -heat these in a mixture made as directed at ‘Patties, Case, or Vol au Vent, etc., Sweetbreads 4 la Financiére.’ Or, re-heat in a Thick White Sauce II. CALVES’ BRAINS BROILED: Boil 114 sets of calves’ brains as above and allow them to cool in their own liquor. Drain and wipe be- tween towels. Cut each brain in two lengthwise. Roll “in melted butter seasoned with a little salt and pepper, then ‘in crumbs. Broil on a hot greaséd broiler, over a hot clear fire, till delicately golden-colored on both sides. Serve with a Bearnaise or highly seasoned Tomato Sauce. Recipes for Kidneys Kidneys should be very fresh. Veal and lamb kid- neys are best, although mutton kidneys are often sub- stituted. Beef kidneys are cooked in the same manner as veal kidneys. Remove the skin ina covers the kidneys. Cut veal kidneys into four lengthwise, carefully remove fat and gristle in center, then slice crosswise 1g of an inch thick. Soak 20 minutes in cold salted water, enough to cover, ‘drain, and wipe perfectly dry between towels. Lamb and mutton kidneys are simply sliced crosswise, but care must be taken to remove fat and gristle in center. Soak and wipe as above. ‘ VEAL OR LAMB KIDNEY SAUTED, I: Skin and prepare 2 veal or 8 lamb kidneys as above, slice, soak, and wipe between towels. Turn into a bowl, 3240 THE FRENCH CHEF IN add, stirring, 1 tablespoon of oil, and let stand until needed, in a cold place. Simmer a sliced onion over a slow fire in 2 tablespoons of clarified butter. Remove onion. Set pan over a brisk fire, and when the butter is hot but not colored, add the kidneys. Cook nearly 3 minutes, tossing or shaking pan so they brown and cook evenly. Place the kidneys on buttered toast on a hot serving dish, and dredge over a little salt and pepper. Remove pan to a slow fire, add a small piece of butter, melt, and blend in 214 tablespoons of flour. Cook till browned and, while stirring constantly till boiling and smooth, dilute this Brown Roux with one cup of Con- sommé or 14 cup of Brown Stock, with an equal amount of either mushroom liquor, white wine or sherry. Season as, needed with a little salt and pepper. Simmer a few minutes and strain over the kidneys. If wine is not used, flavor the sauce with a few drops each of lemon juice and Worcester Sauce, and a teaspoon of chopped parsley. VEAL OR LAMB KIDNEY SAUTED, II: Skin and prepare 2 veal or 8 lamb kidneys, slice, soak, and wipe between towels. Marinate them a while in a little oil. Turn into a hot frying-pan over a brisk fire in 2 tablespoons of hot melted butter. Toss or shake pan, add a very thinly chopped tender shallot, cook 3 min- utes, place on buttered toast, and dredge over a little salt and pepper. To butter left in pan add, stirring, a little butter, a teaspoon of chopped parsley, and a few drops of lemon juice. Pour over kidneys. LAMB KIDNEY A LA FLAMANDE: Skin 8 lamb kidneys and split in two lengthwise. Remove center fat and gristle. Soak 20 minutes in salted: water, drain, and wipe perfectly dry between towels: Put ina bowl, add a tablespoon of oil, mix, and let stand awhile. Heat a frying- -pan over a brisk fire, add 2 table- spoons of butter, turn in the kidneys, and cook them, turning over or tossing as needed, about 4 minutes, to a nice brown color on beth sides. When done dredge over a little salt and pepper. Arrange over buttered toast. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES | 325 = To pan set over a slow fire, add 1 tablespoon of butter, _, and, very thinly chopped, 2 tablespoons of tender shallot. - When slightly amber-colored, add a handful of sliced mushrooms. Cook over a quicker fire until nearly: dry, then add 1 cup of Brown Sauce, and, if available, a little sherry or white wine. If wine is lacking, add 1% tea- spoon of lemon juice, a few drops of Worcester Sauce, and a teaspoon of chopped parsley. Simmer 10 minutes. Season if needed. Pour sauce over kidney. LAMB KIDNEY BROCHETTE: Prepare 6 lamb kidneys and marinate them in a tablespoon of oil or melted butter as in preceding recipe. For each service run a skewer lengthwise through 2 kidney halves arranged side by side. Place over a hot greased broiler, over a hot clear fire,‘and broil 214 min- utes on each side. When done dredge over a little salt and pepper, arrange on buttered toast, and spread over a Maitre d’Hotel Butter. -How to Slice and Cook Bacon Bacon should be kept in a cold, dry place. To slice, put the strip of bacon on a board, skin downwards, then, using a very thin strong-bladed sharp knife, cut into very thin slices one after another, as many as needed, running ' the knife down as far as rind; then run knife blade between rind and slice, following closely to the rind. Carefully cut the slices apart without breaking them. To Cook the Bacon: Take a large frying pan, and _ set it over a hot moderate fire. Place under bottom of pan, opposite the handle, a piece of iron or a poker so” as to tilt at an angle. Arrange the bacon slices in the heated pan and cook, turning slices over often until . golden colored and crisp. The bacon dripping will run to the lower part. of pan bottom, and, as this fat should never remain in contact with the cooking bacon for any length of time, remove it with a spoon as fast as it ac- cumulates near the handle. Or, the bacon slices ean be arranged on a hot greased broiler, then set in a rather hot oven over a dripping-pan and baked till brown- ~ colored and crisp. 326 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Recipes for Calf’s Liver Liver, whether of veal, lamb, mutton; chicken or goose, should always be fresh. Wash, then soak the liver a few minutes in boiling water to cover, to draw the blood. Drain and wipe perfectly dry between towels. CALF’S LIVER AND BACON: Cook thin slices of bacon in a hot frying pan until crisp and golden-colored, as done above. Remove the bacon and reserve hot. Soak in boiling water and wipe as many thin slices of liver as bacon, dredge with salt and pepper, and roll in flour, shaking off superfluous flour. Set the frying-pan holding the bacon dripping over a moderate fire. When hot put in the liver and cook 3 or 4 minutes on each side, turning over as needed, till evenly brown-colored. ‘Serve bacon and liver, over- lapping, and alternating, on a hot dish. Pour the fat out of the pan, add a teaspoon of vinegar, stir, give a bubble, then, using a flexible spatula, scrape pan, gather vinegar and meat glaze into one corner of pan, and pour it over the meat. CALF’S LIVER A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL: Slice liver 14 inch thick, soak and wipe between towels. Turn this repeatedly in a little melted butter and let stand awhile. Encase each slice in an oiled sheet of paper. Arrange on a hot greased broiler over a hot clear fire and broil 4 minutes on each side. When done remove paper, arrange liver on hot serving dish, and dredge with salt and pepper. Spread over a Maitre d’Hotel Butter. Garnish with parsley and lemon slice. CALF’S LIVER AND ONIONS: Cut 3 tender, white Bermuda onions in two length- wise, then cut each half in two, lengthwise, and thinly slice crosswise. Melt 3 tablespoons butter over a slow fire. Add the onions, cook about 25 minutes or until tender and slightly amber-colored, occasionally stirring. Dredge over a little salt and pepper. Remove the onions PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 327 and reserve hot, piled in center of serving dish. To butter left in pan set over a moderate fire, add 2 table- spoons of bacon dripping. In this sauté 6 thin slices of calf’s liver, prepared as in ‘‘Calf’s Liver and Bacon,”’ and finish cooking them as there directed. Arrange the liver around the onions. CALF’S LIVER BROCHETTE: Cut liver into pieces 1144 inch square and %4 inch thick. Soak and wipe between towels. Put in a bowl, add a tablespoon of melted butter, mix, and let stand awhile. Cut into same shape thin slices of lard-pork or bacon. Take as many skewers as there are persons to serve, and introduce pointed end of each skewer through the centers of alternate slices of .salt pork and liver, using 5 or 6 slices of each for one skewer. Press solidly together, and roll in melted butter and in crumbs. « ~ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 389 and shallot, in a little melted butter or bacon dripping. Mix this with the above ingredients, adding a slightly- beaten egg, and, thinly chopped, a tablespoon of parsley and a teaspoon of chive. Season as needed with about 1 -teaspoon each of salt and black_ pepper, and some thinly chopped sweet thyme, or, some‘ canned thyme. BRAISED SHOULDER OF VEAL: Order a boned shoulder of veal and have the bones sent with it. Dredge inside with salt and pepper. Rub with a crushed bean of garlic, roll, and tie it firmly with twine in a good round shape. Then proceed as directed at ‘Veal Braised au Jus,’’ adding the bones cut into pieces. If desired, stuff the shoulder before cooking with a stuffing prepared in preceding recipe. ROLLED VEAL, OR INDIVIDUAL PAUPIETTE: Order cut off the upper thickest part of a leg of veal 6 long thin slices of meat. Using a stuffing made as directed at ‘‘Braised Breast of Veal Stuffed,’’ proceed as directed ‘at ‘‘Rolled Fillet of Beef,’’ making sauce ' as there directtd. VEAL A LA ORLOFF: Prepare, lard and cook a thick piece of veal leg as directed at ‘‘Fricandeau of Veal,’’ and make the sauce as there directed. Prepare a thick Soubise Sauce, and add 24 cup of a’Mushroom Purée and 2 tablespoons of grated Parmesan and Gruyére cheese mixed.’ Slice the ‘eooked meat and spread between the slices the Soubise mixture, re-forming the meat as it was before carving. Reserve some of the Soubise mixture. Dispose the stuffed meat over a buttered pan, and spread over the remaining Soubise mixture. Dredge over some grated cheese and buttered crumbs, and bake just a few min- utes to a delicate golden color in a hot oven. Baste with a little melted butter. Carefully remove the meat onto a hot serving-dish. Send the sauce in a boat. se 390 THE FRENCH CHEF IN FRICANDEAU OF VEAL A LA PARISIENNE: Order a piece about 6-inches thick, cut from the thickest part of a leg of veal. Neatly prepare the top (cut side only) in a nice rounded shape. Reserve the lean meat trimmings to make a Cream Veal Forcemeat. Insert through entire length of meat, parallel to the grain, some thick lardoons of fresh lard-pork and raw lean ham, alternating. Insert over top thin lardoons of larding-pork. Tie the meat firmly in good shape, and cook as directed at ‘‘Veal Fricandeau.’’ Prepare about 3 pounds of a Croquette Potato Mixture, and reserve in hot water until needed. Thickly butter say 6 or 8 individual timbale molds. Set at bottom of each mold a round buttered paper. Ornament sides of mold with blanched strips of carrots and turnips as directed at ‘‘Sweetbreads Chartreuse.’’ Fill center of timbales with the potato mixture. Bake in moderate oven 8 minutes. Reserve hot. Blanch 6 or 8 white mushroom buttons and stems as directed at ‘‘Blanched Mushrooms.’’ Drain, scoop out some of the inside pulp of the mushroom button, chop this pulp and the mushroom stems, and mix them in 14 cup of thick Bechamel or Thick White Sauce II. Season as needed,, fill mushroom cavities with this mixture, dredge over.buttered crumbs, arrange in a buttered pan, and bake a few minutes or until delicately golden-colored. Reserve hot. Butter 8 small mold boats, and fill with a Veal Cream Forcemeat (see, ‘‘Veal Forcemeat’’). Cover with greased paper, and poach as usual in slow, moderate oven until firm, about 20 minutes. Reserve hot. Sauce: To the liquor left in pot add enough Con- sommé or Brown Stock to make about 14% cups of liquor, and simmer a few minutes. Strain and skim off the fat on top. Add 2 or 8 tablespoons of thick Tomato Purée and simmer a few minutes. Dilute 1% level teaspoons of cornstarch in as much water, and thicken the sauce with~it. Before serving beat in; cut into small bits, a generous ‘ounce of fine butter. Carve the meat and re-form it as it was before carving, then arrange it on PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 391 a Potato Socle (see recipe) made with the remaining potato mixture. Unmold the potato timbale and force- meat boats, and arrange, alternating, around the socle. Dispose 6 mushrooms on each end of dish. Having everything nicely hot, send sauce in a boat. FRICANDEAU OF VEAL PRINCESSE: Using same cut of meat, prepare, lard, and cook the veal as directed at ‘‘Fricandeau of Veal & la Parisienne,’’ only substitute for the lardoons of ham some lardoons of pickled veal tongue, and make the sauce in the same” manner. When done, carve off as many slices of meat as there are persons to serve, replace the slices as they were before carving, place on center of a large hot serv- ing-dish, and dress around the meat, one for each service, some mushrooms prepared as directed at ‘‘Mushrooms Stuffed with Soubise Rice Mixture.’’ Then dispose over border of dish alternately, one of each for each service, tomato and artichoke bottom prepared as directed at ““Tomato Stuffed III with Veal Cream Forcemeat,’’ and ‘‘ Artichoke Bottom Stuffed with Mushroom Purée.’’ To make the mushroom purée utilize the stems and imperfect mushrooms, reserving the large, perfect caps to blanch and stuff with the Soubise mixture. Serve everything hot and send sauce in a boat. é VEAL TIMBALE: Proceed with raw veal meat as directed at any of the’ ° ‘‘Chicken Timbales.’’ VEAL CUTLETS AU JUS: ,Order say 6 rib chops of veal, each 2% of an inch thick. Wipe meat, and sauté in a tablespoon of melted” butter to which a teaspoon of oil has been added, in a hot frying-pan over a rather moderate fire, turning over- as needed, until evenly browned. Dredge over salt and pepper. Add % cup of Consommé, stock, or water, with a teaspoon of meat extract. Tightly covered, bake in a very slow oven 35 minutes. Dress the chops, overlapping, ‘ 392 THE FRENCH CHEF IN over a hot serving-dish. Strain the liquor, freed of fat, over the chops. 2 Oceasionally served around a Spinach au Velouté, to which a little of the sauce may be added; or, sur- , rounded by Stuffed Tomatoes III; or, around mashed potatoes, sending sauce in a boat. VEAL CUTLETS A LA MIREPOIX: Sauté 6 rib chops of veal as in preceding article. When brown colored, dredge over salt and pepper, add to pan a cup of hot Mirepoix preparation, cover with a greased paper, and bake in slow oven until tender. Baste occasionally. Dress the cutlets, overlapping, around any one of the following purées:. Potato, Celery, Green Peas, Mushrooms, Turnips, Artichokes, Cauli/ flower, etc. Set a frill on each rib bone. Strain the liquor left in pan, free it of grease, and send separately in a boat. VEAL CUTLETS AUX FINES HERBES: Sauté say 6 veal chops as directed at ‘‘Veal Cutlets au Jus.’’ When browned, dredge over with salt and pepper; then dredge over each cutlet, thinly chopped and mixed, 38 tablespoons of parsley, and 1 teaspoon of chive; then finish cooking the cutlet and serve as di- rected. ; ; VEAL CUTLETS A LA PERIGUEUX: Trim some rib veal cutlets to a nice shape and about an inch thick. Insert thin, short. lardoons of truffle through middle edge of cutlet, and proceed as directed at ‘‘Veal Cutlets au Jus.’’ Add to liquor in pan a little sherry and cook as directed until tender. Serve the cutlets, overlapping, on a hot dish, and set on each’ bone a chop frill. Strain liquor, skim off grease on top, reduce -it to a glaze, and add it to a Perigueux Sauce. Pour sauce in dish. VEAL CUTLETS, MUSHROOM SAUCE: Proceed as at ‘‘Veal Cutlets au Jus.’’ When the cutlets are tender, strain the liquor left in pan, skim off - ~ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 393 the grease, reduce to a glaze, and add to it a Mushroom Sauce. VEAL CUTLETS A LA ZINGARA: Trim to a nice shape say 6 rib veal cutlets. Wipe meat. Insert on one side of each cutlet thin, short lardoons of lean ham and fat lard-pork. Sauté over a moderate fire in 3 tablespoons of .clarified butter until golden-browned on both: sides, turning over as needed. Remove the cutlets and reserve. Sauté a few minutes over a slower fire, in fat left in pan, 2 onions and 2 ear- rots, both sliced, adding trimmings of lard-pork. Ar- range the cutlets over this, and add 6 slices of lean ham eut in medallion shape. Dredge over cutlets salt and pepper, and add a cup of hot Consommé. If available, add a little white wine or sherry and reduce to a glaze before adding the Consommé. Cover with greased paper and bake in a slow oven until meat is tender, basting occa- sionally with liquor in pan. Remove to a hot serving- dish, and arrange in wreath shape, alternating each cutlet with a slice of ham. Strain liquor, skim off the grease, re-heat, and mask the meat with it.. VEAL CUTLETS BREADED: Trim into a nice shape some rib veal cutlets 34 of an inch thick, one for each service. Wipe meat, dredge over salt and pepper, and roll in cracker meal, beaten eggs seasoned with a little salt and pepper, and in fine bread crumbs. Melt over a moderate fire 2 tablespoons of clarified butter, add a teaspoon of oil, arrange the cutlets in the pan, and sauté them about 12 to 15 min- ~ utes or until tender, turning over often to obtain a nié¢e rich golden color. Serve, overlapping, in wreath shape, over any of following sauces: Soubise, Tomato, Montebello, ete. VEAL CUTLETS A LA MILANAISE: Trim into a nice shape say 6 rib veal cutlets 34 of an inch thick. Wipe meat, dredge with salt and pepper, roll in melted butter, in erated Parmesan cheese, and in 394 THE FRENCH CHEF IN : beaten egg, then in sifted grated crumbs of stale bread seasoned with a little salt and pepper. Sauté until tender as directed in preceding recipe. Have ready a “Macaroni a la Milanaise.’ Cut in medallion shape 6 thin lean slices of ham or boiled pickled tongue, or both. Sauté these in a little melted butter until slightly amber-colored, toreing over as needed. Pile the macaroni in center of a hot dish, Arrange the cutlets overlapping around it, alternating them with ham or tongue. Set a chop frill on each bone. BREADED VEAL sy iet> AUX FINES HERBES: Cream 3 tablespoons of butter; stirring, adding 14 teaspoon of salt, a dash of pepper, and, very thinly: chopped, 114 tablespoons of parsley and one teaspoon of shallot. Trim into a nice shape say 6 rib veal cutlets ‘84, of an inch’thick, and wipe. Spread over each cutlet the creamed butter, roll in cracker meal, beaten egg, and sifted crumbs of stale bread seasoned with a little salt and pepper. Sauté until tender as in preceding recipe. Serve over a Soubise Sauce. VEAL SCALLOPS: Take scallops of veal, 34 of an inch thick, cut from leg or from fillet, and cook in any manner given for Veal Cutlets or Veal Noisettes. VEAL NOISETTE A L’ANGLAISE: ‘Veal Noisettes are often made by taking slices 14 inch thick cut off leg or shoulder of veal. These are shaped in a round form, from 24% to 3 inches in diameter. Flatten them a little with the cleaver blade. Or utilize rib veal cutlets freed of bone and gristle, 1 for each service. Prepare and trim in same shape as the noisettes as many slices of lean ham. Roll the veal in a little melted butter and let stand a while. Sauté the ham in a frying- pan with a thick bottom over a good fire, in 2 tablespoons PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 395 of clarified butter until golden colored. Remove ham and reserve. Sauté the veal in the hot butter left in pan, over a rather moderate fire, until evenly golden-brown, turning over as needed; then remove pan to a slower fire and cook until thoroughly done, in all, about 9 to 10 minutes. Remove the veal, dredge over with salt and pepper, and reserve hot. es _ Pour out the fat in pan, add 3 tablespoons of rich milk or cream, and using a flexible spatula, scrape pan in order to mix thoroughly into the milk the meat glaze at the bottom of pan. Add to the following cream sauce, beat, and strain. Cream Sauce: Make the Roux with the fat poured from pan. Make the sauce with the following ingrediénts : 3 tablespoons each of flour and butter, a few grains of Cayenne, 14 teaspoon of salt, a cup of rich milk and 4 cup of thin cream. To serve, arrange each noisette over a French Crouton of same shape as noisette, and place over each one a sauted noisette and a slice of ham, and mask with the sauce. VEAL NOISETTE A L’ITALIENNE: Trim say 6 scallops of veal as directed at ‘‘Veal Noisette 4 1’Anglaise.’’ Roll in the following mixture and let stand 6 hours: Stir in 2 tablespoons oil, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon of fresh-ground black pepper, 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, a few sprigs parsley, and 2 crushed shallots. : Wipe the meat perfectly dry between towels, then cook, make the sauce, and serve as directed above, only leave out the ham and stir into the sauce set in a bath of hot water 2 tablespoons of grated cheese. VEAL CUTLETS A L’ITALIENNE: Chop very thinly say 1 pound of raw lean veal meat, removing skin and gristle: Mix well with the following ingredients: a tablespoon of bread crumbs soaked in -milk or White Stock, liquor pressed out, a slightly-beaten egg, and salt and fresh-ground pepper as needed. Divide ° 396 THE FRENCH CHEF IN into 6 balls, flatten them into cutlet shape, roll in cracker meal and beaten egg, then in fine crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper. Sauté as at.‘‘Veal Cutlets Breaded.’’ ‘When done serve exactly as directed at ‘‘ Veal Noisette a l’Italienne,’’ with the same sauce. BREAST OF VEAL WITH GREEN PEAS: ? Order say 2 pounds of breast of veal cut into pieces, 2 inches square, and skin removed. Melt in a Dutch oven pot over a good moderate fire, 2 tablespoons of clarified butter or good dripping. Sauté the meat in the hot fat until evenly browned. Remove meat and reserve. Cook in the fat left in pot a sliced onion till amber-colored; then remove onion and reserve, chopped. Blend in the hot fat left in pot 14 cup of flour; stir and cook till browned, and, while stirring, dilute with 2 cups of Brown Stock or water. Stir until smooth and boiling, add the meat, the onion, a kitchen bouquet; and when boiling again, remove to a slow fire to slowly simmer, covered, until meat is tender, seasoning as needed with salt and pepper. Thirty minutes before the stew is done add a cup of shelled green peas. When done remove bouquet, skim off the grease, and correct seasoning to suit taste. , VEAL CURRY: Using 2 pounds of veal shoulder cut in pieces 114 inches thick, proceed as directed in preceding recipe, only’ mix with the flour a teaspoon of curry powder and leave out the green peas. VEAL BLANQUETTE: First Method: Cut in pieces 114 inches thick about 2 pounds of shoulder of veal, skin removed, and with it proceed as directed at ‘‘Irish Lamb or Mutton Stew,” leaving out the potatoes and carrots. Second Method: Prepare and cut up the same amount of meat.as above. Put in a kettle, add cold water to cover, and bring quickly to a boil. Pour liquor and ‘ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 397 MSs meat into a colander placed over a bowl, and strain the - liquor through a doubled cheese-cloth into a clean kettle. Quickly rinse the meat in cold water, drain and carefully wipe between towels. Parboil 15 minutes 1 dozen small onions, and drain till dry on strainer. Simmer these 10 minutes over a slow fire in about 4 tablespoons of melted butter, remove onions before they have taken on any color, and reserve. With the butter left in pot and 4 cup of flour make a White Roux. Dilute as usual with the strained liquor while beating constantly until smooth and boiling. Season with 114 teaspoons of salt and 14 teaspoon of white pepper, add the meat, and -when boiling again, remove to a slow fire to slowly sim- ner, covered, until tender. After simmering 30 minutes, add the onions. When done skim off the grease on top, and correct seasoning to suit the taste with salt and pepper. If desired, add, 20 minutes before done, 1 dozen white mushrooms. 2 Ways of Utilizing Veal Left-over VEAL BLANQUETTE WITH LEFT-OVER: Cut into pieces 1 inch thick any left-over roasted, braised, boiled, or broiled veal, removing all browned dry portions, skin, fat, and gristle. Parboil a dozen rather small onions for 50 minutes, drain and dry on strainer. Simmer a few minutes in about 314 tablespoons of butter, without coloring. Remove onions and reserve. With butter left in kettle and 14 cup of flour make a White Roux. Dilute with 214 cups of White Stock or water with a Bouillon Cube added, beating constantly till smooth and boiling. Add about 2 eups of the prepared meat, the onions, and salt and pepper as needed, also a kitchen bouquet including 2 cloves, and as soon as "poiling again remove to a slow fire and simmer until the meat and onions are tender. When done remove bouquet, skim to remove grease, and correct seasoning to suit the taste. VEAL A LA POULETTE WITH LEFT-OVER: Make a stew as directed in preceding recipe. When done gently’ stir into the stew, below the boiling point, . 398 THE FRENCH CHEF IN two slightly-beaten ege-yolks with a teaspoon of lemon juice added, and cook without boiling until the eggs are set. BROWNED VEAL STEW WITH LEFT-OVER: Proceed as directed at ‘‘Veal Blanquette with Left- over,’’ except to sauté the onions in the melted butter over a quicker fire until evenly amber-colored. When blending the flour to the fat left in pan, let it cook until browned, and use Brown Stock if available. Use a little more flour to make the Roux. , It will improve the stew to add remnant gravy of roast veal. ROASTED OR BRAISED VEAL RE-HEATED: Re-heat sliced left-over meats in their own sauce or gravy as explained at ‘‘Roasted or Braised Beef Left- over,’’ or re-heat them in a Soubise Sauce. ‘ VEAL A LA MARENGO WITH LEFT-OVER: Cut into pieces 1 inch square and 3% inch thick say two cups of left-over veal, removing dry skin, fat, and gristle. Simmer a sliced onion in a pot over a slow fire, in 1 ounce of butter till amber-colored, then remove onion and reserve. With the butter left in pan and 31% © tablespoons of flour make a Brown Roux. Dilute as usual with 134 cups of Brown or White Stock, and beat till smooth and boiling, adding 14. cup of Tomato Purée. If available add a littie remnant gravy of roast, or some white wine. ' Add the meat, and the reserved onion, chopped, season with salt and pepper as needed, and,'when boiling again, cover and remove to a slow fire to slowly simmer — until tender. Five minutes before’ done skim off the grease on top, add a few Stuffed Olives and a few canned mushrooms cut in two lengthwise. , VEAL CURRY WITH LEFT-OVER: Mixing in a teaspoon of eurry powder with the flour, PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 399 proceed exactly as directed at ‘‘Browned Veal Stew with Left-over.’’ VEAL CROQUETTES: Utilizing left-over veal, proceed as directed at ‘‘ Beef Croquettes.’’ : VEAL CHILI CON CARNE WITH LEFT-OVER: Utilizing left-over veal, proceed as directed at ‘‘ Beef Chili con Carne.’’ VEAL PIE WITH LEFT-OVER: Turn a veal Blanquette or a Browned Veal Stew with Left-over into a buttered pudding or glass oven gratin dish and let it cool. Arrange on top a pie or puff paste cover. Brush over with a beaten egg, make in’center a fancy incision for evaporation, and bake 20. minutes or _until crust is done. VEAL INDIVIDUAL PIE WITH LEFT-OVER: ‘Utilizing left-over veal, proceed as directed at ‘‘Mut: ton or Lamb Individual Pie with Left-over.’’ DICED VEAL IN CREAM WITH LEFT-OVER: Utilizing left-over veal, proceed as directed at ‘‘ Diced Mutton in Cream with Left-over.’’ 400 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHAPTER XVIII PORK pees is the meat of the pig. Pork is always cooked well done to the center of meat. The lean meat of a young pig will break when pinched and has a white, soft fat; in contrast to which the meat of an old pig has a tough, thick rind. J Fresh and salted lard-pork are both used for larding, and also are spread in thin slices over meat, fowl, game, . or fish before baking. Salt pork, bacon, and ham should always be kept on hand. Pig’s feet are very rich in gela- tine and are often used as a substitute for calf’s foot, in making meat jelly. PORK CHOPS: Take some rib pork chops about 4% inch thick, trim off superfluous fat and wipe meat. Heat a frying-pan over a good moderate fire, and arrange in the chops. Cook, turning over often until golden brown, then remove pan to a slower fire, and finish sauteing until chops are browned and well done to center, turning over as needed. With a tablespoon, remove the tried-out fat as soon as it appears. Allow about 15 minutes for cooking, and when done remove the chops to a hot serving-dish, and dredge over salt and pepper. Pour fat out of pan, add 2 table- spoons of water, scrape pan to dissolve the meat glaze at the bottom, add a few grains of salt, give a bubble, and pour over chops. PORK CHOPS AND APPLES: The apples may be peeled or not according to kind. Remove cores and slice crosswise 44 inch thick. Roll in flour, and shake off superfluous flour. Cook and serve pork chops as directed above, and, while cooking them, take from the pan 2 tablespoons of the tried-out fat, pour it in another frying-pan set over a rather slow moderate fire, place the apples in to just cover bottom of pan, and cook, turning over as needed, until golden- s PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES = 401 ~ colored; then finish cooking in the oven until tender. Arrange the apples around the pork chops. Preparation of Sausage Meat Force through the meat chopper some lean and fat pork, % and 14, cut in pieces and rind removed. To 1 poud of meat add and mix in 14 teaspoon of salt, 1% teaspoon of fresh- ground pepper and 1% teaspoon of sage or thyme, or both mixed. To make club sausage, substitute for the sage or thyme as much celery seed. In the market the mixture is wrapped in ecaul pork. BROILED SAUSAGE AND APPLES: Separate sausages and pierce each one in several places with a carving fork. Sausage should be cooked in hot sausage fat until browned; or heat a frying-pan of a size adapted to the quantity of sausage, add 1; eup lard and arrange in the sausages to just cover the bottom of pan. Turn over often and cook the sausages in their own rendered fat about 10 minutes or until golden-browned, then’ drain. Reserve the sausage dripping to cook sausage in later on, or use it to make stuffingswith pork meat. Put in another frying-pan 1 or 2 tablespoons of the dripping, and with this fat and some apples proceed as directed at ‘‘Pork Chops and Apples.’’ BOILED SAUSAGE: Separate the sausages and pierce each one in several places with a carving fork. Turn into boiling water to just cover, bring to a boil again, add 1 teaspoon of salt, and let simmer very slowly 15 minutes. Serve arranged around mashed potatoes. SAUSAGES A LA GASTRONOME: Boil or broil as above a small club sausage for each service. Arrange at bottom of a buttered shirred-egg dish a layer of hot mashed potatoes, and lightly press a sausage into the potatoes. , Dredge with grated cheese, mask top with a White Italian Sauce or a “White Sauce, 7 402 THE FRENCH CHEF IN sprinkle over grated cheese and buttered crumbs, and bake to a delicate amber color. BOILED PIG’S HEAD: Take a half pig’s head, allow it to stand 24 hours in an earthen crock, covered with a Corned Beef Brine; then rinse, place in warm water to cover in a kettle over a brisk fire, and bring to a boil. Remove to a slow fire to simmer, covered, very slowly until tender, adding 3 cloves inserted in an onion and a kitchen bouquet. When meat is easily parted from bone, lift it out with the skimmer, cut the meat into pieces, and arrange it around some mashed potatoes on a hot serving-dish. SPARERIBS BROILED: Cut a side of spareribs into five or six pieces. Brush them with a little oil or melted butter, and broil as usual to a rich brown color, about 12 minutes. When done remove and dredge over with salt and pepper. SPARERIBS BOILED: Cut spareribs as above. Arrange the pieces in a shallow earthen dish, and dredge over 114 tablespoons of salt. Set it aside in a cold place for 2 or 3 days. Wipe meat, arrange it in a kettle, add warm water enough to cover, bring it to a boil, and add 3 young carrots and 2 cloves in an onion, the onion to be removed when done. Cover, and remove kettle to a slow fire to simmer until tender. Fifty minutes before done, add an Italian curled cabbage, soaked, cleaned, and quartered, and 30 minutes before done, add 3 peeled potatoes cut in half. When done, drain, pile the vegetables in center of a hot dish, and arrange the meat around them. If lacking the cabbage, 35 minutes before the meat is done, add a bunch of cleaned Swiss chard. PORK AND BEANS BOSTON STYLE: Clean a pint of white pea beans, and soak them over night; drain. Soak a half-pound piece of salt pork 1 hour, in lukewarm water to cover. Cut in slices 14 inch PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 403 j thick, running knife as far down as rind. Turn the drained beans into a kettle in enough cold water to cover. Bring slowly to nearly boiling point, then cook just under boiling point over a slow. fire until the skins burst, and drain. Turn into a special earthen pot. with a tight fitting cover, and press in the salt pork, rind “apwards and level with beans.’ To a cup of water set over the fire, add a good dash of dry mustard, a teaspoon of salt, and a tablespoon of molasses, bring to a boil, and pour over the beans, adding enough boiling water to cover. Bake, covered, in a slow oven, 7 or 8 hours, or until tender. For the last 50 minutes of cooking remove cover and bake until the beans are tender and well browned. If needed, add-a little boiling water. DEVILED LEFT-OVER PORK: Cut left-over cooked ‘pork into slices 4 inch thick, or, without slicing meat, use left-over broiled pork chops or spareribs. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter, stir in a little dry mustard, and add a little salt and pepper. Roll the pork in the butter, then in fine bread crumbs. Arrange on a hot greased broiler over a clear, moderately hot fire, and broil to a rich golden color on both sides. BOILED HAM: Serub the ham in a change of water, then soak it over night in enough cold water to cover. Carefully scrape until very clean. Set in a kettle over the fire, in enough cold water to cover, bring to a boil, then’ remove to a slow fire where it will simmer very slowly until tender, when the skin will easily peel off, allowing about 20 to 25 minutes to the pound. You may add to the boiling ham 4 cloves driven into an onion, a few pepper- corns, and a kitchen bouquet. Virginia Ham is. usually boiled without any flavoring. When done, remove the kettle and allow the ham to cool in its own liquor. To trim the ham, carefully remove the rind without touching the fat, leaving 4 or 5 inches of rind around the bone. Trini off any black adhering to the ham, and using a dry cloth, wipe and press slightly over the fat to absorb as much fat as possible, neatly removing the 404 THE FRENCH CHEF IN thigh bone. It will improve the ham thus trimmed to place it a while in a moderate oven and dry out the fat; or, it may be glazed as directed in the following recipe. Before serving, set a frill on ham-bone. HAM A L’ITALIENNE: , Prepare, boil, and trim a ham as above. While ham is still hot, set it in a dripping-pan, dredge over top a little sugar, add to pan a cup of sherry, set in a quick moderate. oven, and bake until nicely glazed, basting often with liquor in pan. Dress it over a hot dish or over a socle of rice. Set a paper frill on the ham-bone. Ar- range around the socle a Macaroni 4 la Milanaise. Send a Tomato Sauce in a boat. GLAZED HAM AND SHERRY SAUCE: Prepare, boil, trim, and glaze a ham as directed in preceding recipe. Dress the hot ham, with a paper frill on ham-bone, on a socle of hominy. Strain liquor left in pan, free it of grease, reduce it to a glaze, and add it_ to a Sherry or Brown Sauce. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 405 ” CHAPTER XIX POULTRY AND GAME Cuicken — Turkey — Pusasants — Geese — Ducks — Witp Ducks— Prairie CHICKEN —QuatL— Par- TRIDGE— SNIPE— VENISON—HarE aNd RappBrts— PIGEONS AND SQUABS How to Select a Chicken CHICKEN is young and tender when the feet and knees are large and soft, the projecting. end of the breastbone soft and flexible, and the skin thin and tender, especially under the wings and legs, which should be pliable and smooth; and when turning the wings back- ward, they yield easily. Never buy a chicken that has thin legs, knees, or neck. e Very young male chicken are occasionally dispossessed of their reproductive organs and raised for the table. These are called capons. They are best either poached or roasted. Young, tender chickens are roasted, broiled, baked, casseroled, or sauted, reserving the older birds for boil- ing, fricasseeing, or daubing. Ten months is nearly the age limit for a chicken for roasting. For broiling a chicken should be from 3 to 5 months old. How to Dress and Clean a Chicken There are two ways to pick the feathers. The first, which is the best, is to pick the feathers with the tips of the fingers as soon as the birds are killed, carefully remov- ing. all pin feathers; then singe the bird by holding it over a flame of burning gas, paper, or alcohol, exposing all the bird’s surface to the flame successively. The second method, which is the quickest, but not recommended, should only be followed when time is short or for old_birds. It consists of immersing the fowl in hot water just near boiling point for about 20 seconds, moving it around constantly, then lift out, and remove feathers, pin feathers, and skin of feet. 406 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Cut the chicken’s head off at the beginning of neck; then, starting at the head end, and using a sharp knife, cut the skin lengthwise over neck, towards and close to body. Fold the neck skin over the breast and cut the neck off close to the body, then cut the neck skin at about three inches from body to leave enough skin to stuff and sew. Introduce the forefinger through the throat into inside of body; turn the tip of finger around to detach and separate the giblets entire and the windpipe; then remove the windpipe and crop. Turn, the bird around, make an incision below breastbone just large enough to detach with the fingers the entrails and other organs; then, firmly grasping the gizzard and all firm parts, remove entire the gizzard, liver, heart, etc., being very careful not to break the gall bladder; if it should break, wash immediately in plenty of cold water any parts that have been moistened with black-green liquor from the gall bladder, which would give the chicken a bitter flavor. : Carefully remove the ligaments and organs lying in cavities of backbone. Let:cold water run through the inside of the bird, drain thoroughly, then wipe inside and outside perfectly dry, taking special care to clean and trim neatly around the rump. ‘Carefully pinch, between the tips of the first and second finger, the gall bladder adhering to liver and remove it. Wash liver, wipe between towels, and reserve. Using a sharp knife, make through, angled thick side of gizzard an incision as far as inner lining of center sack. With tips of fingers, loosen sack and discard. Wash gizzard and heart, wipe between towels, and reserve. Scald the feet in very hot water, but not boil- ing, just 20 seconds, then lift them out, remove skins, and cut off the claws. Wash neck, wipe and reserve with the rest, to use as directed. To Remove the Sinews of the Drumsticks, make a slit lengthwise through the skin one inch long below the knee, or carefully slit the skin over knee-joint so as to expose the bright, cordy sinews lying under the skin. Do not cut these, but run under each one a skewer or one of the prongs of a strong carving-fork, and draw out each tendon (eight in all) one after the other. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 407 How to Stuff a Chicken _ Place a little stuffing inside of neck cavity, fold the skin over the back and sew with fine twine and a truss- ing needle. Then fill inside not more than three-fourths full, as you must allow some space for the stuffing to swell or it will burst through while cooking. Sew the skin carefully as it was, before incision for drawing the bird was made. How to Truss a Chicken Taking about a yard of fine twine in a trussing needle, turn wings across the back so the pinions touch, then run the needle through thick part of wing under bone through body and wing on other side; then return in the same way, only passing the needle over the bone. Tie firmly in such a manner as to easily remove the twine. Press the legs against the body, thus raising the breast, and run the needle through thigh, body, and thigh on other side; return in the same way, going around the bone. Tie firmly. Lastly, run needle through ends. of legs, return by passing the needle through the rump, and if the opening is badly torn, take stitches. , Geese and ducks, having short legs, are trussed by having the extremity of either leg tied firmly with twine running under the back'and fastened with skewers. How to Disjoint a Chicken for Cooking A chicken should be disjointed and cut into twelve pieces. Set the bird on its back. Press and fold a leg back- wards, while running knife-blade through skin between leg and body. Fold by bending the leg, thus breaking the membrane, then run knife through sinews between leg and body, and separate the entire leg from body, with a neat cut close to body. In like manner separate the leg at the second joint. Repeat same- operation on the other side. Then, cutting through skin and flesh of upper wing-joint close to body, remove the wing, cutting the sinews through joint. Cut off tip of wing, then repeat the same operation on the other side. Beginning at a point just over the rump, run the 408 THE FRENCH CHEF IN —S knife along backbone towards the neck, closely following the rib ends, and running the knife as far as the collar- bone. If the birds have not been drawn, remove crop, entrails, gizzard, ete. Cut the backbone into four pieces, then, using a cleaver, separate the two breast pieces by a long cut close to breastbone. Wash the soiled pieces and wipe the meat. How to Carve a Cooked Chicken Place the cooked fowl with the legs turned toward you. Holding the carving fork with the left hand, pierce the breast, one prong close to breastbone on either side. “Hold the bird firmly in place, then, with the carving knife in right hand, run the knife through skin between one leg and the body, and bending the leg back, separate the leg from body with a neat cut at the joint. In like manner separate the drumstick at the second joint. Re- peat on other side-with the other leg. Cut off the wings through the skin and meat. of upper wing-joint close to body, running the ‘knife through joint; then, working the knife-blade parallel to the breastbone, thinly carve the breast meat on either side. Take off also the tender oval piece of dark meat lying on and in either side of backbone. : How to Dress a Chicken for Broiling Pick and singe the bird. Cut‘off the feet at the knee- joint, the tips of the wings, and the neck close’ to the. body. “With a sharp butcher knife, beginning at the neck, split through entire length of backbone. ‘Remove windpipe, crop, entrails, and breastbone. Carefully wipe meat. Trim neatly around the rump and fold the wings under the opened side. Birds thus prepared are often placed between two dishes and kept in a cold place until needed, to form into shape. You may cut the skinned. legs off 114 inches below the knee in order to decorate with a chop frill when serving, How to Fillet a Chicken and Use Trimmings With a small, sharp knife, at top of breastbone, make in skin a straight long cut parallel to breastbone, separat- PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES — 409 ing enough skin from the flesh to make way for the knife to follow closely the breast and wishbone. Neatly scrape : the meat from the bones, occasionally lifting the flesh, _and detach the entire length of meat, cutting the wings at the joint. The part formed by the breast meat is called the large fillet or supréme of chicken. This part is usually separated by a cut from the wings’? meat or fillet mignon of which remove sinews. To skin the large ‘fillet, set it.skin downwards over the board, loosen at edge just enough skin from the flesh to introduce a sharp, flexible knife; pinch and hold the skin firmly with the | left hand, and with right hand run the knife through the entire length of the flesh, closely following the skin. Trim fillet into a nice shape. Usually, when cooking the fillet prepared as above, the second joint is added, also the drumstick freed of sinews, and the backbone cut into four pieces, also the - two oval pieces of dark meat lying on and in either side of backbone; or these may be cooked separately to be added to the fillet when serving, or they may be utilized to make another entrée. The carcass may be used with the giblets to make the sauce, soup, etc., The wings and legs of large tender birds are often boned and stuffed with a chicken force- meat to be prepared, cooked, and served with the fillet. > Recipes for Chicken CHICKEN STUFFING, I: Put 3 scant ounces of butter into a bowl. Add about 5 tablespoons of boiling water. When the butter is melted, thoroughly mix in a cup of cracker crumbs. Season as needed with salt, and rather highly with 14 teaspoon each of pepper and powdered sweet thyme or marjoran. At option, add a thinly chopped tablespoon of parsley and a teaspoon of onion juice. - CHICKEN STUFFING, II: Sauté, for a minute and a half over a brisk fire, the chicken liver and heart, in 2 tablespoons of hot clarified butter or bacon dripping. Remove and reserve. Cook ‘ 410 THE FRENCH CHEF IN ; 10 minutes in the butter left in pan, over a slow fire, a wery thinly chopped onion and shallot. Remove and reserve. Force through the meat chopper the liver and heart and a slice of ham or bacon left from breakfast, also the lean ‘chicken meat trimmed off neck, skin re- moved, which has been boiled when making a Chicken Stock Ch reserving the chicken stock to make the gravy. Have ready 114 cups of crumbs soaked in a little hot White Stock or water, liquor pressed out. . Mix all the above ingredients together, adding an egg-yolk or a whole egg, a tablespoon of chopped parsley, and about 1% teaspoon each of salt, black pepper, and powdered sweet thyme or marjoran. CHICKEN STUFFING, III: Same as Chicken Stuffing IJ, leaving out ham or bacon and the trimmed meat of chicken neck, and adding 3% cup of sausage meat. General Instructions for Roast Chicken When roasting a chicken in the oven, we must remem- ber that the conditions of a closed oven forbid adding any liquid, as steam is incompatible with roasted meat; yet a liquor has to be provided to prevent meat from scorching at bottom. Superior roasted chickens are basted with melted clarified butter, which will scorch at 275° F. while the unflavored végetal oils burn at about 510° F. If the dripping-pan is brushed with a table- spoon or more of vegetal oil, you may baste the chicken with melted clarified butter without much danger of scorching at bottom, provided the dripping-pan is adapted to size of chicken. Of course, this may be omitted if a slice of lard-pork or bacon is laid over the chicken breast, as is done often with squab chicken. AL ROAST CHICKEN WITHOUT STUFFING: Clean, dress, and truss a 314 pound plump, tender chicken. Rub surface with mixed salt and pepper, and if any part of skin is bruised, dredge over contusion a little flour. Brush the chicken with melted clarified PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 411 4 butter, and set inside a small bit of butter and a small sprig of sweet thyme. Arrange it on back over a rack in a selected dripping-pan of a size adapted to the bird, having the pan brushed with abeut a tablespoon of vegetal oil. ‘Set in hot oven, with the fire arranged so that the heat in the oven will remain hot about 15 min- utes or until the chicken is seared a golden color, after which the heat can be gradually reduced to a moderately hot oven. Baste every 6 minutes, the first two times with about 114 tablespoons of clarified butter, and after, with liquor in pan. Turn the bird over twice so it may brown evenly. If the oven is too hot, cover the chicken with a strong greased paper. Allow chicken to bake until tender, from 50 to 60 minutes. Do not dry it out; when the leg and breast meat are tender the chicken is done. Remove the chicken freed of twine onto a shallow dish, wrap it with a blank paper, and reserve hot. Serve with a gravy made as directed below. Send separately a cran- berry or currant jelly. A chicken cooked without stuffing retains to a far greater degree its own delectable flavor. GRAVY FOR ROASTED CHICKEN: First Method: To the dripping-pan in which the chicken has been roasted, set over the fire, add a cup or more of a Chicken Stock II made as directed below, and while it is simmering scrape bottom of pan with a basting spoon so as to blend the meat glaze at bottom into the liquor. Simmer a few minutes, strain, free it of fat, re-heat, and thicken to just a table-cream consistency with a little cornstarch diluted in a little of the cooled stock or water. Give a bubble, and remove to a bath of hot water to reserve hot until serving time. Season as needed. A Second Method: Pour out some fat, leaving just enough of it in dripping-pan to blend in and cook until: - browned 21% tablespoons of flour, and while constantly - stirring, dilute it: with a-cup of Chicken Stock II. Stir until smooth and boiling, simmer a few minutes, skim off grease on top, and strain. ; For a giblet sauce add the chopped gizzard, boiled tender. 412 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHICKEN STOCK, II: Prepare and clean the chicken giblets as directed above, scalding the chicken feet 20 seconds in very hot water. Lift them out, and remove skin and claws. Ar- range the neck,, gizzard, tips of wings, and feet in a kettle over the fire in enough cold water to cover, adding » os teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil, add 2 cloves in- serted in an onion and a kitchen bouquet, and remove to a slow fire where it will very slowly simmer, covered, until neck meat is tender. Strain and skim fat off top. ROAST SQUAB CHICKEN: Trussed squab chicken, with breast covered with a thin slice of lard-pork, are roasted as directed at ‘‘ Roast Chicken without Stuffing,’’ eae about 30 minutes for cooking, or until tender. STUFFED ROAST CHICKEN: Clean, dress, stuff, sew, and truss a 314 pound tender chicken, using a Chicken Stuffing I, II, or III, or an Oyster or Chestnut Stuffing. Proceed as directed, at “‘Roast Chicken without Stuffing,’’ and make gravy as directed at ‘‘Gravy for Roasted Chicken.’’ A 4-pound -ehicken cooked in this manner will require about 60 min- utes for cooking. When the leg and breast meat are tender, the bird is done. OYSTER STUFFING FOR FOWL: 1) eup soft bread crumbs ¥% teaspoon frésh-ground pep- Butter the size of a large per egg 1 tablespoon chopped. parsley % pint oysters cut in half, % teaspoon salt tough parts removed 1 tablespoon lemon juice or 3 tablespoons oyster liquor a teaspoon onion juice Melt and turn butter over crumbs, add remaining ingredients, and mix. For the raw oysters substitute if desired, 114 dozen crumbed oysters sauted to a golden color in a little hot melted butter. To crumb oysters roll in cracker meal, beaten egg, and crumbs, PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 413 ~ i CHESTNUT STUFFING: Slit the shells of 24 pound French or Italian chest- nuts. Broil until tender on a heated oiled perforated pan over a good clear fire of red coal, shaking pan or turning over often, and while they’ are hot remove shell, then neatly scrape off skins. Or, steam the-slitted chestnuts until tender, although chestnuts thus cooked will lose some of their delicate sweetness. Force the toughest chestnuts through the meat chopper, leaving the softest ones whole or cut into halves. Mix thoroughly in a Chicken Stuffing I, in which substitute for the water cream as needed and leave out, the chopped parsley. Or, utilize a Chicken Stuffing II or III and omit parsley. BROILED AND PANNED CHICKEN: Clean and prepare a spring chicken as explained at ‘“How to Dress Chicken for Broiling.’’ Roll it in 2. tablespoons of melted butter seasoned with 14 teaspoon of salt and 14 teaspoon of black pepper, or, leaving out the salt, season the chicken when nearly done. Arrange on a hot greased broiler over a clear hot fire, flesh of the open side first exposed to the heat. Most of the cooking must be done on this side, as the skin scorches quickly. At the beginning keep flesh side close to the heat; turn over often and keep skin side exposed only a few seconds to the heat, or keep skin side away from the heat. Broil until tender, from 20 to 22 minutes, basting occasionally with remaining melted butter. As soon as chicken surface is golden-colored, remove gradually from heat source or reduce the heat, and finish broiling the chicken until tender and richly golden-browned. : _ Lacking a hot clear fire for broiling, heat over a good fire a frying-pan of a size adapted to the bird. When hot add a tablespoon of vegetal oil, and put in the éhicken rolled in melted butter, open flesh side downwards. Broil until surface underneath is slightly amber-colored, turn over, broil a few seconds skin side downwards, and re- peat the turning until the bird is evenly and richly golden-browned on both sides; then season with salt and pepper, set pan in a moderately hot oven and finish 414 THE FRENCH CHEF IN cooking the chicken until tender. Turn over as and when needed. A flat lid with a small weight over top may be set over chicken in oven, to keep the bird pressed into shape. To serve, split the chicken in two, dress it over but- tered toast, and put a frill of paper on each leg bone. Spread over chicken a little creamed butter with a few drops of lemon juice added; or with a Maitre d’Hotel Butter. Garnish with toast points, quartered lemon, and watercress or parsley. BROILED CHICKEN, TARAGON SAUCE: Broil a spring chicken as above until tender. When done, remove and let partly cool. Or util- izing left-over broiled chicken, cut it into half, separate the leg and wing quarters, and remove most of the bone without altering shape. Roll in a little melted butter seasoned with salt and pepper, then in fresh fine- grated crumbs of stale bread. Arrange on a hot greased broiler over a moderate clear fire until nicely golden- colored, turning over as needed. Serve the chicken with a cup of Velouté Sauce made with a Chicken Stock II, adding to sauce a dozen thinly chopped taragon leaves and a few drops of lemon juice. CHICKEN IN DAUBE: This recipe is best adapted to old, tough chicken._ Use a Chicken Stuffing II or III. Clean, dress, stuff, sew, and truss the chicken. Before stuffing, dredge inside with salt and pepper and set in a small sprig of sweet thynie. Rub chicken with a crushed bean of garlic or with a slice of lemon, and insert in breast some thin lardoons of salt-pork. In a Dutch oven pot, set over a good fire, add a few trimmings or slices of salt pork and 1% tablespoons of clarified butter. Sauté the chicken in the hot butter till evenly golden-colored, turning over as needed. Remove to a slow fire, add a sliced carrot and onion, and cook them till amber-colored; then add 3 cloves, a few pepper-corns, a kitchen bouquet, and a split ealf’s foot cut into pieces. Then add, to half cover the PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 415 chicken, a hot Chicken Stock II made of giblets and chicken feet. Sprinkle over chicken a little salt and black pepper; add if available a little white wine or sherry. Cover with greased paper, bake in slow oven until tender, or 3 to 5 hours. Turn over and baste occa- sionally. One and a half hours before done, add a dozen parboiled small onions, previously sauted in a little melted butter until amber-colored. When done remove the chicken freed of twine onto a hot serving-dish, ar: range the onions around it, pour over a little of the hot sauce, and send remainder in a boat. Sauce: Strain liquor, skim off the grease on top, and if calf’s foot has not been used, thicken as directed at ‘‘Gravy for Roasted Chicken.’’ ee CHICKEN A LA VALENCIENNE: Clean and dress a plump, tender chicken of say 314 pounds, and stuff, sew, and truss as for entrée, using a Chicken Stuffing III, to which add 3 thinly chopped mushrooms sauted in butter. Place in a braising pot over a good fire 1 teaspoon of oil and 2 tablespoons of clarified butter. When hot add 24 cup of lean ham cut into dice 14 inch square; then sauté the chicken in the hot fat until everly golden- colored, turning chicken and ham over as needed. To pot removed to slow fire, add, to just half cover the bird, a. hot Chicken Stock I or II, 2 cloves driven in an onion, and a kitchen bouquet; dredge over chicken 14 teaspoon of salt and 1é teaspoon of black pepper. Cover with a greased paper, and bake in a slow moderate oven until tender, or about 1 hour and 15 minutes. “Baste occasion- ally with liquor in pot, and turn over twice. When done, remove chicken, free it of twine, and reserve hot. Strain the liquor in pot, carefully remove all the diced ham, and reserve. Skim off the fat on top of the strained liquor, bring to a boil, and stir in the reserved ham and 14 cup of washed rice. Stir until boiling and cook until rice is tender. Drain the rice and reserve hot. There should be 34 of a cup of strained rice liquor; if more, reduce it. Gently stir into the rice- ham mixture 14 cup of Bechamel or Allemande Sauce “~ 416 THE FRENCH CHEF IN and a few bits of butter, season as needed, and reserve hot. To make the sauce add to the strained rice liquor 22 eup of thick Tomato Purée, beat until boiling, and simmer a few minutes. Skim and season as needed, then strain. : Dress the chicken over center of a hot serving-dish, arrange around border of dish a ring of the rice mixture, and around the chicken some medallion slices of lean ham sauted in butter to a brown color. Send sauce in a boat. CHICKEN WITH RICE: Disjoint and cut a chicken into pieces as directed at ‘‘How to Disjoint a Chicken for Cooking.’’ Rub the meat with a bean of garlic or a lemon slice. Have ready a Chicken Stock II made with the giblets, and a ham bone or some trimmings of ham .added, or both. In a braising oven pot-set over a good fire add a little salt pork trimming and 2 tablespoons of clarified butter, and when hot put in the chicken with a thick slice of lean. ham, diced. Sauté the chicken and ham in the hot fat until evenly golden-colored, adding a sliced carrot and onion, and turning over as needed; then remove to a slow fire, dredge over salt and pepper, and add a cup of hot Chicken Stock. Or, using only half a cup of stock, add 2 quartered skinned tomatoes, seeds removed, then 2 cloves, and cover with a greased paper and bake in slow oven until tender, the time depending on age and quality of bird, a tender chicken taking about an hour and a quarter, and an old one 3 to 5 hours. With an old bird, it will be necessary to add hot stock as and when needed, also a teaspoon of vinegar, as this will help to cook the bird tender. When done, remove the chicken and reservé it hot, freed of twine; remove also the diced ham and reserve it. Re-heat to a boil 1% cups of Chicken Stock II with the reserved ham added. . Stir in 14 cup of washed rice, cook as usual until tender, drain, and dry at oven door open. Reserve the rice liquor. Pile the rice onto center of a hot serving-dish, arrange the chicken around it, and pour the sauce over the whole. f PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 417 Sauce: _ Add the rice liquor to the braising pot’ con- tents and give a bubble. Strain, free it of grease, re-heat and reduce it a little. CHICKEN A LA MONTMORENCY: Clean and dress a plump, tender chicken weighing 314 pounds. Insert isto breast thin lardoons of salt pork, truss the legs inside as for entrées, and stuff with the following mixture: Sauté, as usual; 4 chicken livers. Thinly chop the liver and an equal bulk of cold boiled ham. Mix, seasoning as needed with salt, pepper, and a dash of powdered sweet thyme. Sauté the chicken-in a Dutch oven pot set over a good fire, in a teaspoon of oil and a tablespoon of clarified butter until evenly amber- golden-colored, turning over as needed. Remove, set™ the pot over a moderate fire, and in fat left in pot, simmer for a few minutes a sliced carrot and onion. Put in the chicken, dredge with salt and pepper, add 24 cup of Chicken Stock II, and if available, a little white wine; then add a kitchen bouquet, cover with greased paper, and bake until tender in a moderate oven, about 1 hour or longer, basting often with liquor in pan. Dress the chicken freed of twine over’a hot serving-dish, pour over it the strained reduced liquor, freed of fat, and arrange around it Artichoke Bottom Stuffed with a Mushroom Purée or Tomato Stuffed III, or both. CHICKEN FRICASSEE, I: Clean and prepare a tender plump 314 pound chicken as directed at article ‘‘How to Disjoint a Chicken for Cooking,’’ removing the drumstick sinews. With the giblets prepare a Chicken Stock II, and strain into a kettle over the fire; when boiling, add the chicken cut in pieces, the liquor covering the meat. Bring it quickly to a boil, add a clove inserted in an onion, a kitchen bouquet, and 14 teaspoon of salt, cover, and simmer very slowly over a slow fire until tender, or from 50 minutes to an hour. Carefully drain, wipe meat between towels, and simmer a few minutes in a little melted butter over a slow fire without allowing it to color, dredging over 14 418 THE FRENCH CHEF IN a little salt and pepper. Reserve hot, skim the fat off - the top of the strained chicken liquor and reduce liquor to a pint. Melt 4 tablespoons of butter in a saucepan over the fire, blend in as much flour and a few grains of Cayenne, and, while stirring constantly, dilute with the chicken liquor, slowly added. Stir until smooth and boiling, then remove to a slow fire where it will bubble at one point 20 minutes; skim. While beating in a bowl 2 or 3 egg-yolks with a teaspoon of lemon juice added adda little of the thickened liquor; combine this with the thickened sauce, stir, and cook under boiling point until the eggs are set. Before serving beat into sauce a few bits of best butter, or if desired, add % cup of thick cream and a dozen canned mushroom bottoms cut in two lengthwise, seasoning with a few grains of salt and white pepper to suit taste. z Arrange lengthwise on cénter of a hot serving-dish the pieces cut off back of chicken, over these dress the drumsticks, crosswise, and at each end of dish set a wing. In center arrange the breast pieces, and in the open space on either side the two second-joint pieces of the legs. Mask the whole with the sauce. Garnish around border with toast points. CHICKEN FRICASSEE, II: ~ Prepare an old chicken, disjoint, and cut into pieces as directed before. Cook, and make sauce as directed in preceding recipe, except allow much more, time for cook- ing, varying with the age and quality of bird, usually from 2 to 4 hours. While cooking, add a little vinegar to help make the meat tender. The old-chicken flavor may be removed by washing, before cooking, in tepid water with soda added; drain, wash, rinse and wipe perfectly dry between towels ; then rub each piece with a crushed slice of garlic, and it may also be necessary before simmering the cooked chicken in the butter to remove some of the thick skin and excess fat. CHICKEN A.LA MARYLAND: Prepare two squab chickens as directed at ‘‘How to Dress a Chicken for Broiling,’’ cutting the feet: off at \ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES “419 4 the knee-joint. Cut the chicken in half, and each half into 2 pieces. Wipe meat, dredge over with salt and pepper, roll in flour, shaking off superfluous flour, then roll in beaten egg and in fresh fine-grated crumbs of stale bread. Heat in a thick-bottomed frying-pan of, a selected size a teaspoon of oil and 2g tablespoons of butter. Arrange chicken in -pan and sauté to an even, delicate golden color, turning over as needed. Then set the pan in a rather hot moderate oven, and bake until chicken is tender, about 25 minutes, turning over as needed to finish the article richly golden-browned, bast- ing at 5-minute, intervals, twice with a tablespoon of melted butter and after that with liquor in,pan. Ar- range the chicken over buttered toast, mask it with a pint of White or Cream Sauce, and arrange over each piece of chicken a slice of crisp broiled bacon. At option ar- range around dish corn fritters or, toast point. CHICKEN COUNTRY STYLE: Prepare and cook two squab chickens as directed at ‘‘Chicken 4 la Maryland,’’ only; before cooking the chicken, rub each piece with a bean of garlic or a slice of lemon; then dredge over with salt and pepper, and roll in flour. Bake as directed until tender. To serve, arrange the chicken on buttered toast. Send a Bear- naise or Cream Sauce, separately. CHICKEN EN CASSEROLE: Select and prepare a tender young plump chicken weighing 3 pounds. Remove drumstick sinews. Dis- joint and cut in pieces as directed at ‘‘How to Disjoint a Chicken for Cooking.’’ Make with the giblets, neck and skinned feet a Chicken Stock II, omitting the carrot and onion, but adding a small piece of lean raw ham. When done strain, skim off the grease, and re-heat just enough -stock to cover meat and vegetables. Scoop a few small olive-shaped balls. out of young red carrots and peel as many tender onions the size of large cherries. Parboil the carrotsand onions a few minutes, drain and wipe dry. Cook: vegetables in a frying-pan’ in 2 table- > es 420 THE FRENCH CHEF IN spoons of clarified butter until slightly amber-brown, and drain. Turn vegetables into the boiling Chicken Stock and boil 40 minutes. Dredge over chicken a little salt and black pepper, then 3 tablespoons of flour. To fat left in pan, set over a good fire, add a tablespoon of bacon fat. When hot ‘add the chicken and sauté until golden-brown. Stirring with a wooden spatula, gradually add the Chicken Stock, then the carrots and onions. Let it bubble a minute while stirring. Transfer into a casserole, tightly cover, and cook in a slow moderate oven until tender, about 1 hour and 10 minutes, bubbling just at one point. Parboil a few small scooped balls of potato 13 minutes and drain. Hight minutes before the chicken is done, skim the grease from top of chicken mixture. Add the potatoes, correct seasoning to suit the taste, and add 2 tablespoons of sherry or thick cream. Cover, and finish cooking as directed before. CHICKEN A LA CHEVALIERE: Take up the fillets of two plump pullets as directed at ‘‘How to Fillet a Chicken.’’ Cut each large fillet into: 2 pear-shaped pieces and insert in these thin lardoons’ of larding-pork. Then insert in fillet mignon thin strips of truffle. Roll the chicken fillets in a little melted butter seasoned with salt and pepper, and arrange them in shallow pan to just cover bottom, set on each a thin slice of ‘salt pork, add 144 cup of Meat Glaze, and bake in a rather moderately hot oven until tender and nicely glazed, basting often with liquor in pan. When done, remove and reserve hot. Sauté over a brisk fire, in 214 tablespoons of butter with a teaspoon of oil added, the remaining good edible - pieces of chicken until evenly browned. Remove the meat and add it to the following sauce: * Sauce: With the fat left in pan and 4 tablespoons of flour, make a Brown Roux, and while beating con- stantly till smooth and boiling, dilute with 134 cups of Chicken Stock. Add the sauted meat, any available chopped trimmings of truffle and mushrooms, of which ~ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 421 5 / reserve the buttons or caps to blaneh, and add to sauce before serving. When boiling is resumed remove to a slow fire to simmer slowly covered until meat is tender. ‘When done turn it into a sieve placed over a small sauce- pan. Add to sauce the Glaze’ left in pan used to cook the fillets. , Arrange the piece of meat on a hot serving-dish, and reserve hot. Lift out the sieve, skim thé grease off top of sauce, re-heat it, beat in two slightly-beaten egg-yolks, stir, and cook below the boiling point until the eggs are set; add the blanched mushroom buttons, seasoning to suit taste, and arrange the reserved fillets over the small pieces of ‘chicken, in a nice shape. Mask the whole with the sauce, and arrange around it the blanched mush- rooms. CHICKEN WITH GREEN PEAS: Clean, disjoint, and cut into 12 pieces a tender young chicken. Put in a flat saucepan over a good fire 6 ounces of lard-pork cut into dice. .When the fat is rendered a little, aftrange in the chicken and sauté until evenly and delicately amber-colored. Turn over as needed, dredge over with salt and pepper, then add 34, cup. of hot Chicken Stock II, two green onion tips, and, when boil- ing again, cover and remove to a slow fire. "Let simmer 20 minutes, then add 1 cup or more of fresh shelled green peas and a dash of sugar, and cook until chicken and peas are tender. When done skim off the fat on top, then, while shaking pan, -add a tablespoon of flour kneaded with as much butter, and cut into bits. Give a bubble or two. Serve. CURRIED CHICKEN: Clean and disjoint a tender chicken into 12 pieces. _Melt over a good moderate fire 2 tablespoons of clarified butter with a teaspoon of oil added. Sauté the chicken in the hot fat until just amber- colored. Remove chicken and reserve. Simmer a few minutes‘in fat left in pan ‘2 sliced shallots, remove and reserve the shallots chopped. Blend in butter left in pan 314 tablespoons of flour mixed with a teaspoon of curry powder, and while stir- 1 422 '. THE FRENCH CHEF IN s ring constantly with a wooden spoon, dilute with 1 pint of hot Chicken Stock II. Stir until smooth and boiling, add chicken and onion, season as needed with about 1% teaspoon of salt and 1% teaspoon of black pepper. When boiling again, remove to a slow fire to simmer covered until meat is tender. When done skim off the fat on top, pile chicken on a hot dish and arrange around it a ring of boiled rice. fs If the chicken is old it will have to be cooked cut in pieces, in Chicken Stock II, enough to cover, until tender. Then lift out the chicken. Strain the liquor, free it of fat, re-heat, thicken as above with curry and flour, and pour over chicken. CHICKEN SAUTED WITH ARTICHOKE: Clean and disjoint into 12 pieces a tender spring chicken, and sauté -as directed in preceding recipe, until amber-colored; remove and reserve the chicken hot. To’ pan removed to a moderate fire add 6 or more quartered artichoke bottoms previously blanched until nearly tender, simmer a few minutes, turning over, then remove and reserve hot. In fat left in pan simmer for a few minutes a thinly chopped shallot. If available, add 2 tablespoons of white wine and reduce it to a glaze. Add 14 cup of Meat Glaze or Consommé and bring it to a bubble. Arrange in the chicken and artichoke, dredge over a little salt and pepper, cover, and very slowly simmer till meat is tender. CHICKEN SAUTED A SEC: Prepare and clean a spring chicken, disjoint and cut into 12 pieces. Wipe meat, Simmer a sliced shallot a few minutes in a thick-bottomed frying-pan in 2 table- spoons of clarified butter with a teaspoon of oil added, then remove shallot and reserve, chopped. In the fat left in pan sauté the chicken over a brisk fire until evenly browned, tossing or turning over as needed. Dredge over with salt and pepper, remove pan to a very slow fire, add ¥ cup of Meat Glaze, the shallot and a tablespoon of white wine. Cover, and simmer very slowly until meat PRIVATE: AMERICAN FAMILIES _ . 423 5 is tender. If desired, add a few small canned mush- room buttons. Dress the meat over a hot serving-dish. If white wine has not been used, stir into sauce a tea- spoon of chopped parsley and a few drops of lemon juice. Pour sauce over meat. Garnish with toast points. CHICKEN SAUTED A LA TYROLIENNE: - Clean a tender spring chicken,,and cut into 12 pieces. Sauté the chicken until amber-colored as directed at ‘‘Chicken Sauted with Artichoke.’’ Remove chicken and reserve hot. To pan removed to a moderate fire, add, thinly chopped, an onion and a shallot, also 2 lean slices of ham cut into dice. Stir and cook until the onions are amber-colored. Add 2: tablespoons of meat glaze, 4 skinned and quartered tomatoes, seeds removed, a kitchen - bouquet including 2 cloves driven into a bean of garlic. Stir bottom of pan until boiling, add a teaspoon of salt, and a green pepper cut into dice, arrange in the chicken, cover, and simmer until the chicken is tender. Remove bouquet and garlic, skim off the grease on top, turn on a hot serving-dish, and dredge over top some chopped parsley. CHICKEN PIE: Parboil for 50 minutes two 14-inch slices of rather lean lard pork. Drain, and cut into dice. Clean a tender chicken, disjoint, and cut into 12 pieces; arrange in a kettle, add to just cover a boiling Chicken Stock II, bring quickly to a boil, adding the salt pork and a teaspoon of ‘salt, then let simmer slowly covered until tender, about 50 minutes. Thirty minutes before done add 2 or 3 green onion tips, and 20 minutes before done add about 1 cup of scooped potato balls and a dash of white pepper. Ten minutes before done remove bouquet, skim off the fat on top, then gently stir in 314 tablespoons of flour diluted in a little cold water. When done season as needed, turn mixture into a buttered shallow pudding- dish, and allow it to partly cool. Arrange on top a pie or puff paste cover, brush with a beaten egg, make an incision inenter, and bake in a hot oven until browned. f 424 - ‘THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHICKEN LIVER SAUTED: Wash 6 or 8 chicken livers, wipe perfectly dry be- tween towels, cut each liver into 2 or 4 pieces, according to size, roll in a tablespoon of oil, and let stand a while. Sauté in a hot frying pan, in a tablespoon of melted .. butter over a brisk fire, about 2 minutes or until evenly browned, tossing or turning them over often. Dress the liver over buttered toast on a hot serving-dish, and dredge over with salt and pepper.. To pan set over a slow fire add 114 tablespoons of Meat Glaze or water, scrape meat glaze from bottom, give a bubble, add a few grains of salt, and pour over liver. Bacon dripping is often used to sauté liver. CHICKEN LIVER BROCHETTE: Proceed with washed liver, wiped between towels, as directed at ‘‘Calf’s Liver Brochette.’’ CHICKEN IN CREAM, for Filling Patty Shells, Cases, Etc.: Cut into short scallops left-over chicken or turkey to obtain 11% cups, skin, fat, and gristle removed, Mix with one cup of Thick White Sauce II, and Correct seasoning to suit the taste. CHICKEN IN RAMEQUINS: Fill some buttered ramequins with the above mix- ture, dredge over some buttered crumbs, and bake to a ‘delicate golden color. CHICKEN TIMBALE, I: Butter a quart mold and ornament it with figures stamped out of sliced truffle, then chill. Fill mold with a. Chicken Cream Forcemeat, cover with oiled paper, and poach as usual till firm on top center, in a slow moderate oven. Serve with a Poulette or Velouté Sauce. CHICKEN TIMBALE, II: Butter a quart mold and ornament it as in preceding: — recipe, or ornament it with figures stamped ont of sliced t PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 425 blanched carrots,’ fresh blanched green peas, and small cauliflower flowerets. Chill. When firm spread over bottom and side of mold a layer nearly an inch thick of Chicken Cream Forcemeat, then fill center with a Chicken in Cream for Filling of Patty Shells, as directed in that recipe, adding to this filling 3 slightly-beaten egg-yolks. Correct seasoning as required, then cover top of ‘timbale with a layer of forcemeat, poach, and serve as Chicken Timbale I. CHICKEN TIMBALE, III:, Proceed as directed at Chicken Timbale II, substi- tuting for the Chicken Cream Filling a Financiére Fill- ing for Patty Shells, to which 3 ae ene egg- yolks have been added. CHICKEN MOUSSE: Proceed as directed at Salmon Mousse,_ substituting for the salmon some raw chicken white meat pulp, leaving ‘out the carmine coloring. Serve with any one of the following sauces: Velouté, Poulette, or Bechamel Sauce. CHICKEN CREAM FORCEMEAT BORDER WITH VEGETABLES: Butter a border mold, fill it with a Chicken Cream Forcemeat, cover it with an oiled paper, and poach as usual until firm on top center. Carefully unmold on a hot serving dish of size adapted to ring, and fill center with any one of following vegetables: Green Peas or Asparagus 4 la Francaise, Spinach au Velouté, Arti- choke Bottoms Sauted, etc. ‘CHICKEN TAMALES: Boil a hen until just tender, adding salt as needed and a kitchen bouquet,.2 cloves inserted in an onion, a bean of garlic, and 2 green peppers. Drain and skim stock. Dice half of the chicken meat, removing skin. Place in a bowl, and add, very thinly chopped, a slice of garlic and a tender onion. Season as needed’ with a 4 426 THE FRENCH CHEF IN few grains of salt and Cayenne and with about 4 tea- spoon of Chili powder. Put in a bowl a cup of white cornmeal, 1% teaspoon of salt, and, while stirring, add slowly just enough, boiling Chicken Stock to obtain a paste thick enough to handle. Immerse some large, selected corn husks in hot water, and let stand until soft; drain. With 5 or 6 husks form a wrapping for each tamale. Spread on center of each cover a heaping tablespoon of the cornmeal paste, and on center set a compact ball of the prepared chicken. Wrap the cornmeal mixture over the chicken mixture, entirely encasing the chicken in the cornmeal on the husks. Roll husks around the ball formed by the mixture, twisting them, and tie with string on each side, then cut the projecting husks at about two inches from the ball. Arrange the tamales in a kettle, in boiling chicken stock to cover. Bring to a boil, cover, then remove to a slow fire to simmer 30 minutes. Chicken Entrées with Left-overs CHICKEN DELMONICO WITH LEFT-OVER: Removing sinews, gristle, skin, and fat, from left- over chicken or turkey take about 3 cups of rather thick pieces of meat. Trim into nice shape, and simmer in a shallow pan over a slow fire in 114 tablespoons of melted butter, turning over as needed until all the butter issabsorbed; then add 14 cup of sherry. Bring it just to a bubble, remove, cover and reserve hot. “Have ready 14% cups of Cream Sauce, which reserve in a bath of hot water. Hight minutes before serving, stir in a small sauce- pan 2 or 3 egg-yolks while adding the sherry reserved with the meat, leaving the meat in pan; then set the small saucepan in a bath of hot water, and continue to stir until mixture has thickened. When ready to serve, combine the two sauces, add a little thick cream or a few bits of butter, and beat until smooth, seasoning to suit taste with a few grains of salt and Cayenne.. Pour sauce over meat arranged on a hot dish. Garnish around dish with pimento and truffle. PRIVATE AMERICAN ‘FAMILIES 427 ee if CHICKEN A LA MARENGO WITH LEFT-OVER: Take some nice pieces of left-over chicken or turkey as directed in preceding recipe, and simmer in butter as there directed, leaving out the sherry. When done, remove and reserve hot. To 1% cup of Brown Sauce, over the fire, add 14 cup of Tomato Purée or Sauce. Stir and simmer a few minutes. If available add 2 table- spoons of white wine; then add some canned mushroom buttons and stoned olives, which may or may not be stuffed with a Chicken Forcemeat made’ with chicken trimmings. To stuff and poach the olives, proceed as directed at. ‘Stuffed Olives.’’ Simmer very slowly 1 minute, and correct seasoning to suit the taste. Arrange the re- served chicken on-a hot dish, and mask the wale with the sauce. CHICKEN A LA POULETTE WITH LEFT- OVER: - Cut left-over chicken or turkey in even pieces and remove larger bones and browned skin, trimming in nice shape. Simmer in a little melted butter over a slow fire without coloring, until they have absorbed the butter. Put them in a Poulette Sauce. SCALLOPED OR DICED CHICKEN IN CREAM: Scallop or dice left-over turkey or chicken, removing : skin, gristle, and bones. Simmer over a slow fire in a tablespoon of melted butter‘without coloring. Toss or shake.pan until all the butter is absorbed. Add the meat to a White or Cream Sauce placed in a bath of hot water. Correct seasoning to suit the taste. Serve on buttered toast, garnishing with toast points. FRIED CHICKEN WITH LEFT-OVER FRICAS- SEE OF CHICKEN: Utilizing cold left-over Chicken _Fricassee that has cooled in its own sauce, roll the pieces coated with sauce in a beaten egg seasoned with salt and pepper, then in fine bread crumbs. Fry in hot, deep fat, to a delicate golden color. Serve with any one of the following hot sauces: Poulette, Hollandaise, Bearnaise, Muslin, ete. 428 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHICKEN A LA VILLEROY WITH LEFT- OVER: Cut left-over chicken or turkey into nice piecés, removing larger bones, skin, and gristle. Dip in a hot Villeroy Sauce. Arrange the pieces separately on a cold dish, and set aside ina cold place until firm; then roll in fine crumbs, beaten egg, and crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper. Fry in hot deep fat to a erisp golden color. Serve on folded napkins, garnishing with quartered lemon and parsley. Send the remaining Villeroy Sauce in a boat, separately, after it has been thinned to the right consistency by beating into it some hot Chicken Stock. CHICKEN RISSOLE: Seallop left-over chicken or turkey, sinew, gristle, and skin removed, to obtain say 114 cups of meat. Mix in a cup of Thick White Sauce II. Correct the seasoning to suit the taste, with a few grains of salt and Cayenne. Shake pan to mix, remove, and let cool. Roll out on a slightly floured board some rich pie or puff paste in a sheet about 4% inch thick. Cut into dises of about 6 inches in diameter. Arrange on center of each about 14 eup of creamed chicken, and fold half of dise over other half, wet the edges and pinch or twist together in a ‘fancy shape, brush with a beaten egg-yolk, and bake in a hot oven about 20 minutes, or until crust-is done. Serve hot on a folded napkin. CHICKEN BALTIMORE WITH LEFT-OVER: ‘Cut left-over chicken or turkey into nice pieces, removing larger bones, skin, and gristle. Dredge over with salt and pepper, roll in cracker meal, beaten egg, and crumbs. Fry in hot deep fat to a crisp golden color. Serve same as Chicken 4 la Maryland. CHICKEN CROQUETTES, I: Utilizing remnant chicken or turkey, proceed as directed at ‘‘Beef or Veal Croquettes.’’ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 429 CHICKEN CROQUETTES, II: Cut into small dice 114 cups of left-over chicken or turkey, removing brown dry skin, fat, and gristle. Dice a thin slice of cold boiled lean ham. If desired, add a few canned mushrooms, chopped. Plan for 1%4 cups of solid material, and mix it in the following sauce, res as needed, and spread it over a buttered dish to cool. Reduce 114 cups of rich Chicken Stock to 2% cup. “Melt 3 tablespoons of butter over the fire, blend in as much flour, with a few grains of Cayenne, and dilute with the boiling stock while stirring with a wooden spatula until bubbling; then stir in two slightly-beaten egg- “yolks. Stir and cook 6 minutes, below the boiling point, and season as needed. Shape the croquettes in cylindrical or cutlet shape. Roll in cracker meal, beaten egg, and bread crumbs. Fry in hot deep fat to a delicate golden color. Serve with any of the following sauces: White, Cream, To- mato, or Muslin Sauce, ete. - CHICKEN CROMESQUIS: Have ready a minced chicken-ham and mushrodm preparation made as directed at ‘‘Chicken Croquettes II.”’ Mix with same sauce as there directed and cool. Divide the mixturé into balls the size of an egg, roll into cylindrical shape, wrap each one in caul veal; or, wrap in a thin small Frefch Pancake or in a thin slice of bacon fastened with a buttered toothpick, this to be removed when done. Dip in a Batter I or II and fry in hot deep fat to a crisp delicate golden color. Serve hot and crisp with a Muslin Sauce. CHICKEN SOUFFLE: Make a cup of White Sauce as usual with 2 table- spoons of butter, as much flour, a few grains of Cayenne, 2%, teaspoon of salt, and a cup of milk; remove from fire, then stir in sauce 3 beaten egg-yolks and let cool. Cut into pieces a half-pound of left-over chicken meat or turkey, skin, fat, and gristle removed. Pound in a 430 THE FRENCH CHEF IN = mortar, then rub through a sieve with the following: 1 ounce of Panada, 3 chopped mushrooms, and 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley. Mix this pulp in the above sauce, and season as needed, cool. Thirty minutes before serv- ‘ing, fold in three ege-whites beaten to a stiff dry froth. Arrange in buttered soufflé dish, bake 30 minutes in a moderate oven, and serve at once with a Muslin or Mushroom Sauce. CHICKEN PIE WITH LEFT-OVER: Have ready a Scalloped or Diced Chicken in Cream mixture prepared as directed in a preceding recipe. Turn into a buttered shallow pudding dish and allow it to cool. Arrange on top a pie or puff paste cover, brush- with a beaten egg-yolk, make in center an incision to allow evaporation, and bake in a hot oven about 20 minutes or until crust is done and browned. SAUCE TO RE-HEAT LEFT-OVER CHICKEN OR TURKEY: Slice left-over chicken or turkey, trim the slices into nice shape, removing skin, fat, and gristle. Re-heat them without boiling in any one of the following sauces: White, Cream, Brown, Mushroom, Sherry, Poulette, -or Muslin: Sauce. Recipes for Turkey Turkey is at its best in the early winter months, when it is young and fat. Young turkeys have soft, flexible, nearly black feet, very short spurs, the breast is smooth and flexible, and the skin looks clear and unwrinkled. The female has finer meat than the male. Old turkey is indicated when the spurs are large, the feet scaly, the legs hard, and the projecting breastbone rigid. When turkeys are two years old or older, their feet become reddish and hard, and the birds are then tough. ROAST TURKEY, STUFFED: . Pick, clean and dress a tender young turkey. Stuff it about 24 full, then sew and truss, using twice the quantity of each ingredient as directed in any of the d f PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 431 x 4 following: Chicken Stuffing, I, II, III, or Chestnut or Oyster Stuffing for Chicken. ‘Rub the bird’s entire surface with mixed salt and pepper, then brush with melted clarified butter. With oil brush slightly a drip- ping-pan of a size adapted to the bird, and have ready‘ a rather hot oven with the fire so arranged that the oven will remain hot for 15 or 20 minutes, or until the bird is slightly golden-colored, after which the oven can be reduced to a good moderate heat. Place the bird on its back over the rack in dripping-pan,. set it in the hot oven, baste every 6 minutes for the first half-hour of ‘baking, the first two times with 14 cup of melted clari- ‘fied butter, and after that with liquor in pan. As soon as the oven heat has been reduced, baste turkey every 15 minutes, and turn the bird over several times so it may brown evenly. Usually -it is desirable after the bird has been 30 minutes in the oven, to cover it with a strong greased blank paper. Allow about 16 minutes’ baking to the pound, the time depending on quality and age of the bird. A choice 12-pound turkey cooked in this manner will be done in about 2 hours. The turkey should be removed as soon as it is tender. This is ascertained when the breast and drumstick yield to the pressure of the finger. It should then be removed, as a longer cooking will dry it out. Place the biyd, freed of twine, on a hot serving-dish, and wrap it in a blank sheet of paper to reserve hot. Sauce: Make the sauce as directed at ‘‘Gravy for Chicken.’’ Send sauce in a boat and send separately a cranberry. jelly. ROAST TRUFFLED TURKEY: Grate 4/5 pound of fresh fat lard-pork, and put in a small saucepan over a slow fire, adding half a bay leaf, which remove before stuffing the bird. As soon as: the lard is rendered, add 7 or 8 canned truffles, or one for each service. The truffles may be quartered or not, as desired. Allow the mixture to stand 15 minutes over a slow. fire, without bubbling. Turn it into a bowl and ie 432 THE FRENCH CHEF IN let stand until chilled. Wash the liver and wipe between towels, cut it in pieces, pound, and rub through a sieve. Add this pulp to the chilled truffle mixture, mix thor- oughly, and season as needed with about a teaspoon of salt and 34 teaspoon of fresh-ground black pepper. Pick, clean, and dress a young, tender turkey fresh killed. Place the slices of one truffle in and on the breast between skin and breast meat; then stuff the bird with the chilled lard-pork and truffle mixture, sew, truss, and let stand in a cold, dry place 3 days before cooking. This will allow the flesh to absorb and assimilate the truffles’ delectable flavor. Roast and serve the turkey as directed at ‘‘Roast Stuffed Turkey.’’ OLD TURKEY :. When the turkey is old and tough, immerse it, cleaned and dressed, in boiling White Stock to cover, over a brisk fire. Bring quickly to a boil, and let boil 3 min- utes, then remove to a slow fire to simmer from 114 to 2 hours. Lift the turkey out and proceed as directed at ‘‘Roast Stuffed Turkey.”’ Or proceed with turkey as directed at ‘‘Chicken in Daube,’’ using twice as much stuffing as called for in that recipe. How to Cook Pheasant Young pheasants have short round spurs; the older birds have long, pointed spurs. All the recipes given under ‘‘Roast Chicken’’ are suitable to the young pheasants. Old pheasants are cooked.as directed at “‘Chicken in Daube.’’ ' How to Select Geese Geese are best when killed at from 4 to 6 months. A young goose has yellow, flexible legs, and a smooth skin, the breast is plump, the extremities of the beak are easily broken, and the fat is of a transparent, yellowish white. Old geese are best cooked as directed in recipe, ‘‘Chicken in Daube.’’ The goose drippings should be carefully reserved and utilized to cook vegetables as a butter substitute. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 433 Young wild. geese have smooth legs and the foot webbing is soft. These are best roasted. When having any doubt about the tenderness of a wild goose, braise it. ‘Recipes for Goose ROAST GOOSE: Clean, singe, and wash a tender young goose, care- fully removing the pin feathers; rinse in tepid ‘water, and wipe perfectly dry “between, towels. Stuff with one of the stuffings following, and sew. Truss the bird by tying the extremity of each leg firmly with twine, run- ning under the back and fastened with skewers. Rub entire surface with mixed salt and pepper, and place over breast a few thin slices of salt pork, to be removed in the last 20 minutes of cooking. Arrange goose on rack in a dripping-pan of a size adapted to the bird, and bake until tender as directed at ‘‘Roast Stuffed Turkey,’’ allowing 16 or 17 minutes’ cooking to the pound. Make the sauce as directed at ‘‘Gravy for Chicken.’’ Send the gravy in a boat and send separately some warm apple sauce or a currant jelly. -POTATO STUFFING ‘FOR GOOSE AND TAME DUCK: Use full quantities for geese, half quantities for tame duck. Melted butter size of an egg 4 onion, chopped 1.cup fresh crumbs of stale 1 shallot, chopped bread 2 tablespoons butter 1 pound mashed potatoes _ 2 ounces grated lard-pork 1 teaspoon salt 1 slightly-beaten egg A few grains Cayenne Pour the butter over the crumbs, stir until crumbs are moistened, and mix with the potatoes, salt and Cayenne. Melt remaining butter over a slow moderate fire; add the onion and shallot, simmer until onions are tender, add lard-pork, stir, and cook a few minutes. Combine with first mixture, adding the egg, and correct the seasoning to suit the taste. Add, if desired, 4 teaspoon of very thinly chopped sweet thyme. 434 THE FRENCH CHEF IN LIVER STUFFING FOR GOOSE: Wash a goose liver, wipe dry between towels, and sauté 114 minutes in a little of the rendered goose fat or bacon dripping; cut the liver into pieces and rub through a sieve. To the fat left in pan, over a slow fire, add an onion and a shallot, both thinly chopped. Cook until tender. Mix the onions and liver in 2 cups’ of Bread Panada, season as needed with salt and rather highly with black pepper, and thyme or sage. Add a beaten egg. Or moisten’ 114 cups of crumbs with 44 cup of melted butter, mix with the above liver paste and cooked onions, and add 4 or 5 tart apples chopped and the above seasonings. LIVER STUFFING FOR TAME DUCK: Using the duck liver and only 1% cups of Bread Panada, proceed as in preceding recipe. BROILED LEFT-OVER GOOSE: Take nice thick slices of left-over goose, remove skin and gristle, dredge over with salt and pepper, and roll in melted butter and crumbs. Arrange on a hot greased broiler, over a moderately. hot clear fire, and broil to a nice golden color on both sides, turning over as needed. Serve over any of the following sauces: Brown Poi- vrade, Ravigote, Hot Tartar, Piquante, Bearnaise, or Tomato Sauce. GOOSE SALMI: Proceed with left-over roasted goose as directed at “Duck Salmi.’’ Recipes for Tame Duck Tame duck is best when young and fat. Young duck have yellow feet and the lower part of the bill can be easily broken. As the duck grows older, the feet turn darker till they become red. Young ducks are usually roasted; old ones are braised. ROAST TAME DUCK: Prepare and roast a tender young duck as directed at ‘‘Roast Goose,’’ except, before stuffing’ the bird, PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 435 remove the breastbone or break it with the rolling-pin. Use as stuffing either a Potato Stuffing for Goose and Tame Duck or a Liver Stuffing for Tame Duck, and, be- fore sewing, break the end of backbone near rump so as to fold it inside. Roast, and make a sauce as directed for ‘‘Roasted Goose,’’ allowing seventeen minutes to the pound for cooking. \ - BRAISED TAME DUCK: Clean, dress, wash, wipe, stuff, and truss a tame duck as in preceding recipe. In a Dutch oven pot, over a moderaté fire, simmer in a little rendered duck fat a carrot and an onion, thickly ,sliced, until amber-colored. Remove vegetables and reserve. Sauté the duck in the hot fat left in pot set over a good fire, until evenly golden-coloted. Remove the pot, pour out the fat, and ‘reserve it. Add to the duck in pot 144 cups of hot White Stock, and if available, a little white wine or sherry. Add the reserved onion and carrot, a kitchen bouquet, dredge over with salt and pepper, set on duck’s breast a thin slice of salt pork, cover with a greased paper, and set in a moderate oven to cook until tender, from 2 to 4 hours, basting occasionally and turning over twice. In the last 20 minutes of cooking, remove salt pork and paper. When done remove the duck to a serv- ing-dish, free it of twine, and reserve hot. Strain the liquor, skim off the fat on top, reduce it and thicken as usual with a Brown Roux made of the reserved grease and 214 tablespoons of flour. Send sauce in a boat. Serve around the duck, as preferred, any one of the following purées: Green Pea, Celery, Turnip, Onion, Artichoke, or a Chestnut Purée. BRAISED TAME DUCK WITH CHERRIES: Same as preceding, only arrange around the braised duck, dressed on a hot dish, some large sour cherries that have been cooked until tender in a sugar syrup and drained of their liquor. 436 THE FRENCH CHEF IN BRAISED TAME DUCK WITH ORANGES: Serve a braised duck as in preceding recipe, leaving out the cherries. Arrange around duck the trimmed sections of 2 sour seedless oranges. Pour over the oranges the hot sauce of the braised duck, or, use an Orange Sauce to pour over. DUCKLING A LA ROUENNAISE: Clean, dress, truss, and, without stuffing them, roast until tender 2 tame squab ducks as directed at “Roast Tame Duck.’’ Have ready the following: Pound the ducks’ livers and rub through a sieve, with one ounce of butter, a few grains of salt, a dash of pepper, and some mixed spice to suit the taste. Arrange on a but- tered shirred-egg dish and set in a hot oven 2 minutes; then spread over some buttered toast arranged on a hot serving-dish. Reserve hot. Using a sharp knife, take up the fillets and fillet mignons of the cooked ducks as directed at ‘‘How to Fillet a Chicken.’’ Dress the fillets over toast; then, using a special press, squeeze the liquor from the carcass, add to liquor a few rae of lemon juice, and pour over the fillets. How to Dress Wild Birds Wild birds should be carefully drawn. ‘The inside should never be washed, else all the birds’ wild flavor will be lost. Simply wipe inside and out with a wet eloth wrung out of its own water. ‘Truss as directed at ‘‘Trussing of Poultry and Birds,’’ and when the head and neck are left on, make an incision through neck to remove windpipe and crop. Skin the head, take out the eyes, then bring the head around the back to emerge between the drumsticks. Birds such as snipes have their beak used as skewers and pushed through the drumsticks and body. Recipes for Wild Duck _ The meat of wild duck, which is always cooked rare, is much finer than that of the tame duck. Wild duck, ay PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 437 young and old, have small, reddish feet, and the only way to recognize young wild duck is by the smoothness of the legs and the softness of the webbing. The canvasback duck is the favorite, but it is now very expensive. They are recognized by their purple head and silver breast. The red-head duck is nearly as good and not quite so expensive. Among the varieties of wild duck, mallard and teal are also popular. ROAST WILD DUCK: Pick and carefully draw a wild duck. Cut off the neck and feet, removing crop and windpipe. Wipe inside and out with a wet cloth wrung out in its own water. Truss same as tame duck. Rub surface with mixed salt and pepper, and set inside a few stalks of celery and the liver; spread over breast and legs some thin slices of lard-pork,or a tablespoon of bacon dripping, set over a rack in a dripping-pan of a size adapted to the bird, place in a very hot oven, and bake 15 to 18 minutes, basting every 5 minutes, twice with a little melted bacon dripping, and after that with the liquor in the pan. Dress the bird, freed of twine and skewers, over a hot serving-dish, garnish with watercress and quartered lemon, and, if desired, serve with it some fried-hominy and currant jelly or an Orange Sauce. DUCK SALMI: _ Roast a duck as above. Take up the fillets and fillet mignon and cut each large fillet into two pieces, shaping these like a pear. Cut up carcass and trimming in pieces. Melt 3 tablespoons of butter over a moderate fire, add the pieces of carcass and trimmings, the liver, mashed, 2 shallots, thinly sliced, and a little trimming of ham cut into dice. Cook until the shallots are amber- colored, then stir in a quarter-cup of flour. Cook until browned, and, while stirring constantly, very slowly add 2 cups of Brown Stock or Consommé. If possible in- clude as a part of the liquid a little red or white wine, stir until boiling, adding a few pepper-corns, a bean of garlic, and a@ kitchen bouquet, and season as needed. 438 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Remove pot to a slow fire to slowly simmer 1 hour. Strain sauce through a fine sieve, skim off the fat on top, re- heat to a boil, add a teaspoon of lemon juice and the duck fillets, let stand without boiling until the meat is re-heated, arrange the meat over some buttered toast on a hot serving-dish, and mask with the sauce. Garnish with toast points. a Occasionally canned mushroom buttons and stuffed olives are added to sauce. ROAST GROUSE OR PRAIRIE CHICKEN: The grouse has dark meat, and therefore should always be cooked rare. It should be plump and heavy, and should be killed 3 or 4 days before it is cooked, and drawn as soon as killed. Wash outside only. Cut off the feet and neck, wipe meat with a cloth wrung out in its own water, insert on breast. thin lardoons of salt- pork, and truss. Rub surface with mixed salt and pep- per, brush with melted butter, arrange over rack in a dripping-pan, and bake in a hot oven 20 to 30 minutes. Baste every 5 minutes; the first time with a tablespoon of clarified butter, after that with liquor in pan. : Recipes for Quail ROAST QUAIL: . Pick and singe the quail,.cut off feet and neck, and draw carefully, . Wipe the bird inside and out with a wet cloth wrung out in its own water. Truss with skewers. Rub the surface with mixed salt and pepper, or better, season when nearly done. Brush with melted clarified butter. Set over the breast a thin slice of salt pork or bacon, and arrange the bird over rack in a dripping pan of a size adapted to the number of birds. Place the pan in a hot oven, bake 15 minutes or until tender, basting every 5 minutes, the first time with a tablespoon of melted clarified butter, and after that with liquor in pan. Dress the birds, freed of skewers, over some buttered toast on a hot serving-dish. Moisten each one with a little of the Hquor in pan. Garnish with watercress and lemon slices. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 439 BROILED QUAIL: : Pick and singe the quail, cut off neck and feet, split down the back; draw carefully, wipe the meat with a wet cloth wrung out in its own water, roll in melted butter, and let stand awhile. Arrange over a hot greased broiler, over a hot clear fire, and broil as usual about 8 minutes, cooking mostly on the flesh side and basting with the remaining melted butter. When nearly done dredge over with salt and pepper. Serve on buttered toast, garnishing’ with watercress and slices of lemon. QUAIL EN CASSEROLE: Prepare and truss 6 quail as directed at ‘‘ Roast Quail.’’ Melt 14 cup of butter over a good fire in a Dutch oven pot. When hot, put in the ‘quail and cook them about 10 minutes, turning over as neéded, ‘until of a golden color on all sides. Remove pot, take out quail,,and reserve hot. To fat in pot set over a moderate fire add 14 cup each, of carrots and onions cut into thin strips (Julienne Shape); spread these at bottom of pot, put in the quail over them, cook - until the cooking vegetables give out a caramelising odor. Then add a kitchen bouquet, 2 cloves, a few pepper- corns, and a large cup of boiling Consommé, or use only white wine or sherry. Dredge over with salt and pepper, cover with greased paper, and bake in a moderate oven 20 minutes or until birds are tender. Remove the quail, take out the skewers,‘and reserve hot. Strain the liquor, skim off the grease on top, re-heat, and reduce to a syrupy consistency. Sauté the livers a minute in hot melted butter over the fire, rub through a sieve, season with a little salt and pepper, and spread them on six heart-shaped pieces of buttered toast or French Croutons; re-heat half a minute in oven. Arrange the : croutons on a hot serving-dish, seta quail on each, garnish with watercress, and pour sauce _ over quail. SALMI OF QUAIL: Roast 3 quail. When done take up the fillets and members and remove skin. Cut the carcass and trim- 440 ' THE FRENCH CHEF IN mings into pieces, and with it and the livers and hearts, proceed as directed at ‘‘Duck Salmi,’’ serving in the , same manner. . QUAIL SOUFFLE: Roast a quail 15 minutes; take up the fillets and fillet mignon, and remove skin, gristle, and bone. Cut the meat into pieces, pound it to a paste, and rub through a sieve. Reserve pulp. To fat left in roasting pan, set over a slow fire, add the trimmings and carcass, cut into pieces, and a sliced shallot. Cook a few minutes, add a cup of cold stock, a dash of pepper, bring to a boil, and simmer 30 minutes. Strain, skim off the grease and reduce to 1 cup. Thicken as usual with a Brown Roux made of 2 tablespoons of butter and 21% tablespoons of flour. When done, stir in the quail pulp, remove it from the fire, add 3 well-béaten egg-yolks, season as needed with salt and pepper, and let.stand till cool. Thirty minutes before serving, fold in 3 egg-whites beaten to a stiff dry froth, and arrange in a buttered soufflé dish. Bake about 30 minutes in a moderate oven. Serve at once. Partridge and Snipe Partridges are always cooked well-done. to center of meat. Roast partridge is cooked 40 to 45 minutes as at ‘‘Roast Chicken,’’ and served with a Bread Sauce. Broiled partridge is cooked 22 minutes to 25 minutes, as at ‘‘Broiled Chicken,” and served same as there di- rected.» PARTRIDGE AUX CHOUX: Clean and truss a partridge as for entrée. Sauté the bird in a little clarified butter over a good fire until evenly golden-colored on all sides, turning over as needed. Cut a curled Italian cabbage into quarters, remove wilted leaves and tough core, soak and drain. Put in a sauce- ’ pan with a 4-ounce piece of lard-pork. Add cold water to cover, boil 4 minutes, drain, press liquor out™ of cabbage, and slice the lard-pork. Spread a scant table- spoon of lard at bottom of a kettle adapted to size of the t PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 441 bird, and add, both sliced, a carrot and an onion. Put in half the cabbage, and over it a few slices of lard-pork, then the partridge. Cover the bird with the remaining lard-pork and cabbage, add boiling White Stock to cover the whole, then add a kitchen bouquet, and salt and 5 pepper as needed. Cover, bring to a boil, then set pot in.a slow oven to cook until’ tender and the cabbage has _ absorbed all the liquor. Turn out very hot onto a hot serving dish, and serve at once. ROASTED SNIPE: Pick and singe the birds, cut off the feet, skin the head and remove the eyes. Through an incision under the neck, remove pipe and crop, and carefully draw the bird, wiping inside and out with a wet cloth wrung out in its own water. Press the legs against body, thus raising the breast. Bring around the bill and use it as a skewer, pushing it through both legs and body. Wrap each bird in a thin slice of lard-pork or bacon, and roast 10 minutes in a hot oven, basting with a little melted butter. Remove the birds, and reserve hot. Sauté the livers a minute in a little hot butter over a good fire, rub through a sieve, season as needed with a few grains of salt and pepper, and ‘spread over some heart-shaped pieces of buttered toast or French Croutons; then re- heat one minute in oven. Arrange the croutons on a hot dish, set a snipe on each, garnish with watercress, and pour over the birds the dripping in the roasting pan. Ways of Cooking Venison Venison is the flesh of the deer. It is of a dark red color and tender. Venison is nearly always cooked rare except when braised. BRAISED VENISON SHOULDER, STUFFED: Taking care not to pierce the skin, bone a shoulder -of venison. Trim it carefully, taking from thickest part and the ends about half a cup of lean meat. Dredge inside with Salt and pepper, stuff with a mixture made as directed below, and roll, sew, and truss firmly with twine q 442 THE FRENCH CHEF IN in a good, round shape. Braise as usual over a bed of lard-pork and ham trimmings, and thickly sliced carrot and onion, and when done, remove. Strain liquor, skim to remove grease, and with it make a Venison Sauce. Stuffing: Force through the meat chopper a quarter cup of lard-pork and the, venison trimmings, also a slice of lean ham. Add and mix them in a Bread Stuff- ing, seasoning as needed with salt and highly with pepper. VENISON STEAK, BROILED: Venison steaks cut one inch thick are broiled exactly as is a beefsteak. They are always served rare. Allow nearly 3 minutes’ broiling on each side. When done dredge over with salt and pepper, and spread over a Maitre d’Hotel Butter, or, leaving out the butter, serve with a Colbert or Perigueux Sauce; or, again, with melted currant jelly. If the steaks are thin, roll them in melted butter seasoned with salt and pepper, then roll in fine bread crumbs and broil over a hot greased broiler set dver a moderate clear fire, nearly 3 minutes on each side. VENISON CUTLETS SAUTED: Take rib venison cutlets about an inch thick and trim - them into a nice shape, cutting off the spine bone. Mari- nate 6 hours in a ‘‘Marinate for Venison.’’ Wipe per- _fectly dry between towels. Sauté in a hot frying-pan over a brisk fire in a tablespoon each of clarified butter and oil, turning over often so they may brown evenly; allow nearly 6 minutes for cooking. Place on serving dish, overlapping in wreath shape, dredge over with salt and pepper, and set a chop frill on each bone. Spread over them a Maitre d’Hotel Butter, or serve with a Colbert Sauce; or, if available, make a port wine sauce, add to sauce 2 tablespoons of currant jelly, and some thinly shredded broiled chestnuts or blanched almonds. When the venison is to be served with a Perigueux Sauce, the cutlets are first larded with thin, short lardoons of truffle inserted along the middle edge of the cutlet. ‘ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 443 Cutlets are then marinated and sauted as above, Or, lard with thin strips of salt pork, then marinate and sauté as above, and serve with a Poivrade or Venison Sauce. . -Sauces in which to Re-heat Left-over Venison: Thinly sliced left-over venison; freed of dry skin and egristle, may be re- heated under’ the boiling point in any of the following sauces: Venison, Poivrade, Ravigote, Piquante, ete. ‘ Recipes for Hare and Rabbits . Rabbits, both wild and domestic, are at the present time the least expensive form of flesh on the market, and for this redson their use should be stimulated by ‘good ‘recipes. JACK-RABBIT: Skin a jack-rabbit as soon as obtained and draw carefully; then thoroughly, wipe the meat with a wet cloth wrung out in its own water. Let stand over night in the following marinate, to just cover. Drain, and wipe perfectly dry between towels. Rabbit thus pre- pared may be used in any recipe given below. Marinate: To each 2 quarts of cold water add 2 tablespoons of salt, the juice of a lemon or % cup of vinegar, a few crushed pepper-corns, 2 cloves, a-few sprigs of parsley and a sprig of thyme, and a sliced onion. ROAST BELGIAN HARE AND COTTONTAIL: Skin and draw a young Belgian hare or a cottontail. Wipe meat with a wet cloth wrung out in its own water ; then wipe dry between towels. Insert on back and hind legs some thin lardoons of lard-pork. Run skewer through the members. Bake until tender as directed at “‘Roasted Chicken,’’ allowing for cottontails 35 to 40 minutes for cooking, 50 to 60 minutes for Belgian hare. When the hind legs are tender, the rabbit is done. Dress on a hot serving-dish, remove skewers, and t o . 444 THE FRENCH CHEF IN with liquor in pan, make a gravy as directed at ‘‘Gravy for Chicken,’’ Second Method. When done stir in 4 tumbler of currant jelly, beat in a few bits of butter and a few drops of lemon juice, and correct the seasoning to suit taste. Send sauce in a boat. Or, serve with any one of the following sauces: ‘Venison, Ravigote, or Brown Poivrade Sauce. ROAST BELGIAN HARE IN SOUR CREAM: Roast a Belgian hare'as above, and 15 minutes before done, add to pan a pint of hot sour cream, 14 teaspoon of salt, a teaspoon of lemon juice, a few pepper-corns, 1 clove, a shallot, and a little left-over unthickened gravy ~ of roast or a teaspoon of meat extract. Finish baking the rabbit until tender, basting every 5 minutes with liquor in pan. Remove rabbit to a hot serving-dish, take out the skewers, strain liquor, skim off the fat on top, re-heat and thicken as usual with a Brown Roux. Sim- mer 10 minutes, correcting seasoning to suit the taste. Send sauce in a boat. BELGIAN HARE AND COTTONTAIL SAUTED A SEC: Disjoint and cut into even pieces a tender Belgian hare or a cottontail. Wipe meat, and with it proceed . as directed at ‘‘Chicken Sauted 4 Sec,’’ serving same as there directed. RABBIT CIVET AND SOUR RABBIT: Disjoint and cut a rabbit into pieces. Wipe meat, and let stand over night in the following marinate, with the liver added: To 1 cup of mild vinegar, add a-pint of claret, or, lacking the wine, use water. Add 11% teaspoons of salt, a tablespoon of sugar, 144 teaspoon of black pepper, a few sprigs of parsley and one-of sweet thyme, a bay leaf, a crushed onion, 3 cloves, and a stick of celery. Drain meat and wipe dry between towels. Bring the marinate to a boil and strain. In a thick iron frying-pan simmer for 10 minutes in 2 tablespoons of bacon dripping 12 small onions or 2 - PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 445 q thinly sliced onions; then remove onions and reserve. Fry 6 slices of bacon in pan set over a good fire, until ' nearly -crisp; then ‘remove and reserve. Add to the pan, if needed, enough bacon dripping to have about 1/5 eup of dripping. Set over a good fire, and put -in the rabbit, previously dredged with salt and pepper and rolled in flour. Sauté, turning over as needed, until evenly browned. ‘Then, stirring with a wooden spoon, add the hot marinate, stir until boiling, turn: it into a porcelain lined kettle, add the bacon and onions, ‘and cover. Set the pot on the back of the stove with an extra lid under it, so that the onions will not scorch at ' the bottom, and simmer very slowly until ‘tender, 20 minutes before done, adding the liver. Recipes for Pigeon and Squabs Pigeons should be cooked the same day as killed, Squab or young pigeonsare usually broiled or roasted. If in any doubt about the tenderness of older birds or pigeons, braise them. BROILED PIGEONS: Singe some plump squab pigeons, carefully picking out the pin feathers. Cut off the neck close to body, and cut the feet off, leaving on enough of the leg below the knee to hold a chop frill when serving. Scald this part of leg under knee a few seconds in very hot: water, and remove skin. Split the bird down the backbone, carefully draw, then wipe meat with a wet cloth wrung out in its own water; wipe with a clean, dry cloth. Remove breastbone. Roll in a little melted butter or oil, and let stand 20 minutes. Arrange the birds on a hot greased broiler over a hot clear fire, having the flesh side first exposed to the heat, and broil 12 minutes ‘as at ‘‘Broiled Chicken.’’ When done roll the cooked _ pigeons in melted butter, seasoned with salt and pepper, using 14 tablespoon of butter to each bird, then dress on buttered toast; pour remaining melted seasoned butter over, and garnish with watercress and quartered lemon. 446 THE FRENCH CHEF IN ROAST SQUAB OR YOUNG PIGEONS: For roasting use only plump squab pigeons. Clean, singe, and remove pin feathers. Cut feet off and the neck close to body, and carefully draw, removing wind- pipe and crop. Wipe carefully with a wet cloth wrung out in its own water; press both legs against body, thus raising breast, and fix them into place with skewers. If the wing tips only are cut off, fold the wings on the back. Rub the birds with mixed salt and pepper, tie on the breast a thin slice of lard-pork, arrange over the rack in a dripping-pan of a size adapted to the number - of birds, and bake in a hot oven from 15 to 18 minutes or until tender, basting every 4 or 5 minutes, the first 2 times with 2 tablespoons melted clarified butter. Ar- range the birds, skewers and twine removed, over but- tered toast on a hot dish. Pour over each a little of the liquor in pan, and garnish with watercress and lemon slice. ; Ways of Serving Roast Squab: Roasted squab are often served with green peas; occasionally, with Cauli- flower 4 la Maitre d’Hotel or with Brussels Sprouts, Sauted. Or, they may be served in a nest of crisp lettuce leaves, with some blanched asparagus tips that have simmered a few minutes in a little melted butter. Or arrange around the pigeon some artichoke bottoms filled with various vegetables, or, again, use Stuffed Mush-. rooms. - PIGEON STOCK, OR FUMET DE PIGEON: Take from left-over pigeon all the fillets and members available. Reserve them to re-heat in the sauce, re- moving skin, gristle, and large bones. . Put the coarsely chopped careass and trimmings over a moderate. fire in 2 tablespoons of melted butter. Add 2 very thinly sliced onions and carrots. If available, add some mushroom trimmings, and a little trimming of ham. Cook 15 minutes, stirring oécasionally. Then add 114 eups of cold Brown Stock, and, if available, 3 table- spoons of sherry; season with % teaspoon of salt, a few pepper-corns, a clove and a sprig of sweet thyme, bring PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 447 to a boil, and simmer over a slow fire 40 minutes. Strain liquor, and skim off the grease on top. SAUCE TO RE-HEAT LEFT-OVER PIGEONS: Make a Brown Roux with 2 tablespoons of butter and 3% tablespoons of flour. Dilute it with the above pigeon stock. Stir until smooth and boiling, then remove to a slow fire to simmer bubbling at one point 10 min- utes and skim. Correct the seasoning to suit the taste, and strain through a fine sieve. Re-heat in this sauce, without boiling, some left-over cooked pigeons trimmed as in preceding recipe. PIGEON AU GRATIN WITH LEFT-OVER: Take from left-over pigeons all the fillets and pieces available. Trim, and remove skin, gristle, and bone, reserving the smaller pieces of meat to make a Pigeon Gratin Stuffing, as directed in the following article. Butter a glass oven gratin dish; place the pigeon stuffing in it, and on top arrange the pigeon fillets, smoothest side up. Have ready a hot sauce prepared as above. Brush the meat surface. with the sauce, place the dish in a moderate oven, and bake 25 minutes, brushing the meat surface with the sauce every 4 minutes. Serve in same dish. Send the remaining sauce in a boat. PIGEON GRATIN STUFFING: Cut the following ingredients into dice about 1% inch thick and keep separate: 6 ounces fresh lard-pork, rind removed, 3 scant ounces raw veal meat, and same quan- tity of washed calves’ liver. Sauté the lard-pork in 3 __ tablespoons of hot melted butter until slightly amber- — colored. Remove and reserve. In fat left in pan sauté the veal over a moderate fire until tender and very slightly colored. Remove meat and reserve. In fat left in pan over a brisk fire sauté the liver for a minute with ‘some reserved pigeon liver added. Remove pan to a moderate fire, and replace pork, liver, and veal to pan. Add a crushed shallot and 1 cup of mushroom trim- mings. Dredge ovér with 14 teaspoon of salt, 14 tea- spoon of pepper, and a dash each, of sweet thyme, clove, ’ 448 THE FRENCH CHEF IN o - and bay leaf, pulverized. Cook, stirring 10 minutes. Place a sieve over a small pan, turn in the cooking mix- ture, and collect the dripping fat to make a Brown Sauce. Trim left-over pigeons as directed in preceding recipe. ; : To meat in sieve, add the available pigeon meat cut into pieces. Pound the whole in a mortar, then rub through a sieve, adding 2 ounces of butter, an egg and an egg-yolk. Correct seasoning to suit the taste. FILLET OF PIGEON STUFFED A LA PARIS- IENNE: = For 6 persons, clean, dress, and truss 3 plump tender squab pigeons. Tie around.the breast a thin slice of lard-pork. Mix 2 scant ounces of grated fresh salt pork with as much chopped mushroom, adding a little salt and black pepper. Divide and stuff pigeons with the - mixture. Put 2 tablespoons of butter over a good fire in a flat frying-pan. Add 2 tablespoons of thinly chopped lard-pork. Sauté the pigeons in the hot fat until evenly golden-colored on all their surfacés, turning over as needed. Remove pot to a very slow fire or to back of stove. Dredge over the pigeons a little salt and pepper and cook about 14 minutes or until the liquor in pan has become thick and reddish-brown; then remove, drain pigeons, and reserve fat in pan. Put the pigeons over the board, take off the fillets, and trim them, removing skins. Take from the pigeons all available pieces of meat, remove skin, ‘gristle, and bones, cut in pieces, and make a Pigeon Gratin Stuffing as ‘directed at that recipe. Out up all that remains of the pigeons, and with this and the fat left in pan proceed to make a Pigeon Stock as directed at that article, and with this ‘ ‘stock make also a sauce as directed at ‘‘Sauce to Re- heat Left-over Pigeéons.’’ Reserve hot. Leaving the smoothest side of each fillet untouched, spread some of the above stuffing inside of fillet, molding it in a convex shape. Butter a medium-sized, cylindrical timbale mould and fill with the remaining stuffing, cover with an oiled paper, and poach as usual in a slow, moderate oven ae PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 449 until firm. Thirty minutes before serving, pour into a shallow pan just large enough to hold the six fillets, enough hot sauce to just screen bottom of pan. Arrange in the fillets, stuffing downwards, and bake in a moderate oven 25 minutes or until the meat is nicely glazed, brush- ing the meat surface every 3 minutes with a little of the hot sauce. Unmold timbale on center of a hot serving-dish, arrange the fillets upright and overlapping around tim- bale, and dispose over top of timbale some Stuffed Olives or Mushrooms Stuffed. Garnish around base with the. same. Send remaining hot sauce in a boat. ' ( It will improve its appearance if the whole is dressed over a potato or hominy socle. BRAISED PIGEONS (for Old Birds) : Clean 4 pigeons, singe, pick pin feathers, wipe, and truss. Place in a Dutch oven pot, over a moderate fire, a tablespoon of butter, a little salt pork trimmings, 2 onions and 2 carrots, both sliced. Stir and cook until the odor of the cooking vegetables is noticeable. Ar- range the pigeons over the vegetables, side by side, breasts up; add 1 pint of boiling Chicken Stock or Consommé, and bake, covered, in a slow oven, from 11% to 4 hours, or until tender, adding a few pepper-corns, 2 cloves, and a kitchen bouquet. Dredge with salt and pepper after an hour’s cooking. During last 4% hour of cooking, remove the lid and bake in a quicker oven, basting every 5 minutes so birds may glaze evenly. Dress the pigeons over a hot dish on buttered toast, re- moving the skewers. Garnish with watercress and lemon slices. Send the sauce in a boat. Sauce: Strain the liquor, free it of fat, reduce a little, and thicken as usual with a Brown Roux. It is desirable to add to the cooking pigeon a little sherry wine. PIGEON PIE: Clean, singe, and wipe 2 young pigeons. Split them down backbone and quarter. Try out some fat breast- 15 \ 450 THE FRENCH CHEF IN pork and remove scraps, leaving enough fat in pan to sauté the pigeon until tender and slightly golden-colored. Have ready 3 boiled potatoes, diced, 6 sliced blanched mushrooms, 6 thin slices of cooked bacon, and 2 hard- boiled eggs, sliced, Arrange half of the bacon at bottom of a buttered meat-pie dish, and over the bacon place half, each, of the pigeons and the potatoes, eggs, and mushrooms, then repeat layers in same order. Dredge over some chopped parsley, 24 teaspoon of salt, 44 tea- spoon of black pepper, and pour over this enough KEs- pagnole or Brown Sauce to barely cover. Let cool, then arrange on top a rich pie or puff paste cover. Brush top with beaten egg, make in center an incision to allow evaporation, and bake in a hot oven until pastry is browned, about 20 minutes. SQUAB IN PAPER CASES: Clean, singe, and wipe 3 tender squab pigeons. Split them down the back, remove breastbone, and cut each in two. Flatten lightly with the cleaver blade to break bones, removing as much bone as possible without alter- ing their shape. Sauté in a heated frying-pan, in 3 tablespoons of butter, over a moderate fire until tender, 14 or 15 min- utes, turning over as needed. When done dredge : over with salt and pepper and arrange between dishes to cool and press into shape. ; Prepare a d’Uxelles Sauce as directed at that recipe. Take 6 blank sheets of paper about one foot square, and brush generously with melted butter or oil. Cut each sheet into as large a heart-shape as possible; spread in the middle of one side a large tablespoon of the sauce, arrange over it a slice of lean boiled ham, and put over this a half-pigeon; then spread over a large tablespoon of the sauce, arrange over it a slice of ham, spread over more sauce, fold the other half of ‘paper over the whole, and wrinkle or crease the edges firmly, thus encasing the mixture. Arrange in a pan, and bake in a hot oven 10 minutes. Serve hot with a Tomato Brown Sauce in a boat. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 451 SQUAB CUTLETS: Prepare and split into halves 2 squab pigeons as for broiling. Make an incision near rump through which introduce the extremity of the bone of the leg. Fold the ‘ wings on back, cutting off tips. Lightly strike the pigeon with the rolling pin, then roll in melted butter seasoned . with salt and pepper. Sauté 8 minutes in a little hot melted butter, in a frying-pan over a good fire, until pigeons are golden-colored. Remove and reserve each pigeon arranged between two dishes, to cool and press into -shape. To pan set over a slow fire, add 24 cup of Consommé or part Meat Glaze; stirring the bottom, give a bubble and strain. Return the pigeons to pan, and add the © hot strained liquor, also the meat liquor left on the dish used in pressing. Cover, and bake in a moderate oven till tender, about 10 minutes. To serve, pile on ‘ center of a hot serving-dish a purée of vegetables. Ar- range the squab cutlets around it, placing a chop frill on each leg-bone. Send sauce in a boat. e Sauce: Skim the grease off the liquor, strain, and thicken with ‘a very little cornstarch, in the usual manner. 452 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHAPTER XX BATTERS A BATTER means usually a flour mixture well beaten to incorporate air cells which expand upon heating and help to make the finished product light. The thick batter classed as Drop Batter is a mixture thick enough to hold together when dropped from a spoon. To make a thick batter, add, while beating the flour mixture, just enough moisture to obtain a mixture that can be beat till smooth. The thin batter often called Pour or Spread Batter, since it spreads or pours easily, is made by adding slowly to a smooth thick batter the remaining liquid, while beat- ing constantly. / Since the thickening powers of flour differ consider- ably, it is, sometimes necesssary to add more moisture than the pasticular recipe calls for, so as to obtain a thin batter easy to pour or spread. : BATTER, I: 1 cup sifted flour 1¥% teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt % eup milk 1 egg, beaten light When this batter is used to make sweet entrées, add a teaspoon of sugar; and when it is utilized to make vegetable or meat entrées, leave out the sugar, use either water or milk, and add a few grains of white pepper or Cayenne and 1% teaspoon of oil. Method: Sift the dry ingredients together; make in center a depression in which place the eggs, and while beating add half of the liquid, then beat until smooth, and continue to beat while slowly adding the remaining liquid. The finished batter should coat an article dipped in it, about 1/12 of an inch thick. Or, the lightly beaten yolk of the egg is added first, then add the liquid as above, and fold in the egg-whites, beaten stiff. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 453 BATTER, II (without Baking Powder): 1 eup sifted flour 1 teaspoon oil 4 teaspoon salt 34 eup lukewarm water 2 egg-yolks, slightly beaten 2 egg-whites, beaten stiff Sift the dry ingredients in a bowl. Make in center a depression and put in the egg-yolks and the oil, and, beating, add about half of the liquid. Beat. until smooth, and continue beating while slowly adding the remaining liquid. Let stand in a warm place 2 hours, and when ready to use, fold in the egg-whites. An article dipped in this batter should be screened by a coating 1/12 of an inch thick. BATTER, III: 1 cup sifted flour % cup milk ¥, teaspoon salt 1- egg, beaten light 1% teaspoons baking powder 5 Follow same method as in Batter, I. BATTER, IV: 1 cup sifted flour Y% cup milk 44 teaspoon salt 1 egg, beaten light 11 teaspoons baking powder. When this batter is utilized to make sweet entrées, add a teaspoon of sugar, and when it is utilized to make vegetable or meat entrées, leave out the sugar and add a few grains of Cayenne. Sift the dry ingredients. into . a bowl, put in the egg in a depression in center, and, beating, add the liquid. This batter-when dropped from a spoon in hot deep fat should be of a consistency to hold together. 454 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHAPTER XXI HOT DESSERTS SteamMep Puppines— Frirrers—SourrLés—Bakep Pup- piInecs—Fruit Puppings—FRiep BattEeR MIXTURES —Puppine SAvUcEs © How to Boil or Steam Puddings UDDING mixtures to be boiled or steamed are often, arranged on the center of a wet pudding cloth wrung out in its own water and then spread with grease, doubled, spread over with grease again, and dredged with flour. After the mixture is arranged on cloth, gather the ends and corners of the cloth over top and tie them firmly with a string, leaving enough space to allow for swelling. 2 ‘When the flavoring is to be retained in the mixture, or when the pudding is to be kept a few weeks before serving, it is then. desirable to arrange mixture in a special ‘buttered mold with a close fitting lid, filling mold %4 full, and leaving enough space to allow for swelling. Place a greased paper between mold and cover, tightly sealing mold. To Boil: Place the pudding in a mold or in a greased cloth in boiling water to cover. Keep water boiling for the first 20 or 30 minutes, then allow it to simmer very slowly, till done. In all, usually 3 hours is needed for cooking. Add as and when-needed boiling water, to keep pudding constantly immersed and boiling. To Steam: Place the pudding in a steamer having the lower pot 34 full of boiling water, over a fire that will keep it constantly boiling as long as necessary, usually 4 hours. Tightly cover the steamer, placing a cloth between lid and steamer, and add to the lower pot when and as needed boiling water to replace evaporation. ih - 4 PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 455. To Unmold Boiled or Steamed Pudding: Remove the cooking pudding, in cloth or mold, immerse it a few seconds in cold water, then unmold or remove cloth. The pudding is occasionally set a minute in the oven to dry a little. APPLE FRITTERS: Often served as a Sweet Entrée, usually after the roast. Peel and core some good tart apples, and slice them crosswise a quarter of an inch thick. Pour over a little lemon juice. Wipe and dip in a Batter I, then fry in hot deep fat to a-crisp rich golden color, about 3 minutes on first side then, turning over, 2 minutes on the other side. Serve hot with a Lemon or Brandy Sauce. BANANA FRITTERS: Often served as a Sweet Entrée. - Skin the bananas, removing stringy substance, cut in half lengthwise and in two crosswise. Fry and serve same as Apple Fritters. APRICOTS A LA MONGOLE: Split some sound ripe apricots and pit. Dissolve 4. cup of sugar in 34 of a pint of boiling water.. When clear and boiling, cook the apricots in the syrup, a few at 4 time, until tender. Cool and drain. Fill cavity of each half-apricot with a Cream Filling, as for cake, mixed with some cooked rice, place 2 half-apricots to- gether to give the fruit its natural shape. Roll in a beaten egg-white and cake crumbs. Fry to a golden color in hot deep fat. Sauce: Reducé the syrup to a cup, and thicken to a syrupy consistency with a little cornstarch diluted in a little cold water. Before serving stir in a few bits of butter and a few drops of lemon juice. COCOANUT FRITTERS: Mix 1 cup of grated cocoanut in a thick Batter IV, drop in small balls from a tablespoon into hot fat, and a , 456 THE FRENCH CHEF IN ’ fry to a rich golden color, turning over as needed. Serve with Lemon or Creamy Sauce. QUEEN FRITTERS: Prepare a cooked paste as directed at ‘‘Cream Puff Cake.’’ Let stand 2 hours, covered with a cloth. Drop from a tablespoon balls the size of a walnut into hot deep fat, not too hot, or they will not swell and fry hol- low. Turn them over as needed, until crisp and evenly golden-colored. Drain on brown paper at oven door open. Serve hot and crisp, dredging over some powdered sugar. Send in a boat a Lemon or Vanilla Sauce. If on trying a ball dropped in hot deep fat, it does not puff hollow, beat into the paste another whole egg. Soufflés Soufflés are nearly all made in the same manner. The mixture in which the beaten-stiff egg-whites are folded should always be smooth and of a consistency -similar to creamed yolks of eggs in which sugar has been beaten until fluffy, when mixing a Sponge or Savoy Cake. Usually Soufilés require an egg-white for- each service, as ‘‘soufflé’’ means, in French, an extremely light mix- ture. The sweet souffié mixture, arranged in a buttered soufflé dish, should be allowed to stand a few minutes on a rather slow spot of the range, before baking it in a moderate oven from 25 to 30 minutes according to its bulk. Five minutes before done dredge over some sifted confectioners’ sugar. Serve at once on same dish, as it will fall if allowed to stand. Occasionally Soufflés are ornamented with a little of the reserved soufflé mixture foreed through a pastry bag and star’ tube. OMELETTE SOUFFLEE: This recipe will serve six persons. 5 egg-yolks ¥4 teaspoon lemon extract 5% cup granulated, sugar 1 teaspoon (level) cdrnstareh 1 teaspoon lemon juice 6 egg-whites Grated rind of lemon A dash of salt PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 457 As a variation, substitute for the lemon rind the rind of an orange and for the lemon extract, orange extract. Butter a soufflé dish and dredge with sugar. Rub the egg-yolks until thick and lemon-colored, and, beating, slowly add the sugar. Beat until very light and fluffy. Add the rind and flavorings, also the starch, and beat. Thirty-three minutes before serving add the salt to the egg-whites and beat them to a very stiff froth that will bear an egg. Fold these in the first mixture, and arrange in soufflé dish. Bake about 30 minutes, in a moderate oven, and 10 minutes before done, when turning it around, dredge some sugar over top. Serve at once on same dish as used for baking. Much care should be taken to grate only the super- ficial colored rind of the lemon or orange. Usually the Soufflé is baked enough when, in gently shaking the dish, it remains firm on top center. CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE: Butter a soufflé dish and dust it with sugar. Blend 2 tablespoons of flour in 2 tablespoons of melted butter over the fire, and dilute with 44 cup of scalded milk, while stirring constantly with a wooden spatula +ill smooth and boiling, adding 44 cup of sugar and % .cup of powdered unsweetened chocolate, or 2 ounces Baker’s Chocolate melted over hot water. Stir until bubbling, remove from the fire, then beat in 3 egg- yolks previously beaten. The cooled mixture should be of a consistency similar to the beaten egg-yolks and sugar, when making a Savoy Cake. Beat in a teaspoon of vanilla, and, if needed, a little cream to bring it to the right consistency, and 25 minutes before serving, beat 5 or 6 egg-whites, with a dash of salt added, to a very stiff, dry froth; fold it in the first mixture, and finish Soufflé as in preceding recipe. APRICOT OR PLUM SOUFFLE: Rub some thoroughly ripe apricots or green gage plums through a very fine sieve to obtain 8 ounces or a eup of pulp. Add a few drops of lemon juice. Put 3 tablespoons of water in a small saucepan over 458 THE FRENCH CHEF IN the fire. Pour slowly onto center a generous cup of sugar, . then gently stir until the sugar is dissolved, taking care that sugar does not stain the side of pan. It i is desirable to add 1 or 2 drops of lemon juice to prevent the granu-. lation, and boil it ‘‘to the Crack’’ (see, ‘‘Boiling Sugar to the Crack’’). Combine with first mixture and let stand until cold. Thirty-three minutes before serving, fold in 5 or 6 egg-whites beaten to a stiff dry froth that can bear an egg. Arrange it in a buttered soufflé dish dusted with sugar, and bake in a very moderate oven 35 minutes. Ten minutes before done, dredge with sugar. Serve at once on samé dish. PRUNE, APPLE, OR PEAR SOUFFLE: Drain some .cold cooked prunes, remove stones, and rub pulp through a sieve. Stir in about 114 cups of pulp about 24 cup of pulverized sugar, adding 24 teaspoon of cornstarch, 1 teaspoon of lemon juice, and 24 teaspoon of cinnamon. Thirty-two minutes before serving, fold in 5 or 6 egg-whites beaten to a very stiff dry froth. Arrange in a buttered soufflé dish dusted with sugar, bake in a moderate oven 30 minutes, and 5 minutes before done dredge with powdered sugar. Serve at once. The pulp of steamed or baked apples or pears may be, substituted for the prune pulp. Baked Puddings LEMON TAPIOCA: Soak over night 14 cup of tapioca in a pint of cold water. Turn into a slightly buttered glass oven gratin dish, adding the juice and grated rind of half a lemon, and the other half of the lemon, freed of skins, and cut into small pieces, and sweeten to suit the taste. Bake about 30 minutes or until transparent. Serve-with a Hard Sauce, lemon-flavored. QUEEN PUDDING: 4 ounces pistachio nuts 1144 cups scalded milk 4 ounces fine macaroon crumbs 5 egg-yolks, slightly beaten 3% ounces butter ¥, teaspoon salt 314 ounces powdered sugar - 5 egg-whites, beaten very stiff 3¥, ounces sifted flour PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 459 _ Chop the nuts and mix with crumbs. Dredge a little over bottom and side of a buttered pudding mould. Cream the butter, and continue to rub: while slowly adding the sugar. When creamy continue beating and add gradually the flour, then dilute with cooled milk. Cook and stir with a wooden spatula over a slow fire till it forms a smooth soft paste. Remove, when luke- warm add the egg-yolks, and mix well, then fold in the egg-whites beaten with salt. Arrange a layer of this paste at bottom of mould, and spread over a layer of mixed nut-crumbs, repeating layers. Poach in oven as usual 114 hours. Unmould when needed. Serve with a Custard Sauce with chopped praline added (see, ““Praline’’). CABINET BREAD PUDDING: Cut into small dice 2 cups of stale bread, removing crusts. Melt 114 tablespoons of butter in a pudding dish, add the bread, and bake in a moderate oven until richly golden-colored and crisp. , Stir occasionally. Re- move and reserve, ? While beating 2 whole eggs in a bowl, add %-cup of sugar, a crushed sugar-cube previously rubbed on a lemon rind, and 14 teaspoon of lemon juice or extract. Con- tinue beating while adding slowly a pint of cooled scalded milk. Mix with the bread 14 cup of picked and seeded raisins, pour over the milk mixture, dredge over with powdered cinnamon, and bake in slow moderate oven until firm. , 7 CABINET BANANA PUDDING: Same as preceding, adding to bread mixture in pan a banana, sliced crosswise. CABINET FRENCH PUDDING: Butter generously a plain cylindrical pudding mold. , Cut into dice 14 inch thick 2 cups of stale bread, discard- ing brown crust. Melt 2 ounces butter in a frying-pan over a moderate fire, add the bread, and cook carefully until golden-brown; stir constantly or shake pan to 460 THE FRENCH CHEE IN obtain an even light brown color. Seed 3 ounces of dates, add 3 ounces of picked-over Sun-Maid seedless ‘raisins and about 5 ounces of mixed citron and candied orange peel cut into short strips. To these add the grated rind of a half-lemon, dredge with a tablespoon of flour and mix, adding if available a few crumbs of almond macaroons. Arrange a layer of browned bread at bottom of mold, dress over it a layer of mixed fruit, and repeat the layers. Finish with bread croutons, add- ing a tablespoon of lemon juice. Break 3 eggs in a bowl, add 1% cup of sugar, and while beating, add slowly a pint of cooled scalded milk. Strain over mixture in mold. Poach 2 hours in a slow moderate oven. Unmold when warm onto a hot, shallow dish, pour over a hot Sabayon Sauce, made as directed at recipe, ‘‘ Date Pud- ding,’’ or serve with a Lemon Sauce. POOR MAN’S FRUIT PUDDING: Grate 334 cups of stale bread crumbs and pour-over them 24 cup of sour milk. Sift a cup of flour .with-a teaspoon each of soda and cinnamon added and % tea- spoon of salt. .Thinly chop 4 ounces of suet, removing skin. Cream the suet, rub, and add % cup of brown sugar, then 3 ounces each of seeded raisins and currants, also 2 pared, tart apples, chopped. Combine with first mixture. While stirring the flour mixture, slowly add 24 eup of sour milk and beat well, then combine with the other mixture. Steam 3 hours. Serve with a Hard Sauce, lemon-flavored. : a APPLE PUDDING, AND VARIATION: 4 medium-size apples 1 ounce butter, cut in bits % cup sugar 4 cup apple or apricot jelly. 1 cup bread crumbs % eup cold water 1 teaspoon lemon juice Grated rind of a half-lemon With a fork crush the jelly, then stir and add cold water. Cook until the jelly is melted. Butter a quart- glass oven soufflé dish. Peel, quarter, core and thinly slice the apples, pour over the lemon juice and dredge with the grated rind. Arrange a layer of apples at ! PRIVATE-AMERICAN FAMILIES 461 bottom of dish, dredge over some sugar, spread over layer of crumbs, and dot top with bits of butter. Repeat layers until dish is full, finishing with crumbs; then pour over the jelly liquor, dot top with bits of butter, and cover. Poach in a moderate oven 1 hour. Remove the pan in which the pudding has been poached. Take off the lid and bake the uncovered pudding 3 minutes in a quicker oven. Send on same dish. Send Lemon Sauce in a boat, separately. As a variation, use brown sugar instead of white and for the jelly liquor substitute 14 cup of water boiled with 14 cup of brown sugar and also mix with the apples “4 eup of Sun-Maid seedless raisins. COTTAGE PUDDING: ¥, cup butter 1 cup milk 34 cup sugar 2cups (good measure) flour 1 egg, well beaten 2 rounded teaspoons baking Y% teaspoon salt 2 powder Cream the butter and beat, slowly adding the sugar, then the egg, and continue to beat well. Still beating, alternately add the milk, and the flour sifted with the baking powder. Arrange the batter in a buttered cake pan and bake in a moderate oven about 35 minutes. Serve with Vanilla or Lemon Sauce. PEACH COTTAGE PUDDING: Same as preceding. Arrange in the mixture 4 peeled peaches cut into slices. Serve with a Lemon Sauce or a Hard Sauce, lemon-flavored. Fruit Puddings SUET PUDDING: Y% pound sifted flour ¥ teaspoon ginger 22 teaspoon soda 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon baking powder % cup thinly chopped suet 1 teaspoon salt 2%, cup molasses ¥ teaspoon each, nutmeg and % cup milk clove 4 cup seeded raisins, chopped -Mix molasses with suet, and while stirring slowly add the milk. Pour and mix into the dry ingredients = 462 THE FRENCH CHEF IN sifted together in a bowl, adding the raisins. Arrange mixture in a buttered pudding-mold, tightly cover, plac- ing a greased paper between the lid and mold, and boil 21% hours as directed (see ‘‘How to Boil or Steam Pud- dings’’). FIG PUDDING: 34 cup crumbs 3 eggs, beaten light % cup milk ‘ 1 ounce chopped almonds %4 cup chopped suet (optional) : 3 ounces or 34 cup brown sugar % cup sifted flour % pound dried figs, chopped, 34 teaspoon salt or % each seeded raisins 1 teaspoon baking powder and figs Grated rind of a half-lemon Sift the flour, salt, and baking powder together ; soak the crumbs in milk; cream the suet,.adding the sugar, and, while beating, add the eggs, the soaked crumbs, the almonds, lemon rind, and, lastly, the flour mixture. Arrange it in a greased mold, tightly cover, and steam 3 hours. Serve with a Hard Sauce, lemon- flavored. DATE PUDDING, OR THANKSGIVING PUD- DING: Soak 8 ounces of beef marrow in lukewarm water 40 minutes, and drain 1 hour onto a strainer. Chop very thin and turn in a bowl, and, while stirring it, add grad- ually % cup of powdered sugar. Continue to rub, slowly adding a cup of dates cut into small dice, 3 cups of grated crumbs of stale bread, 14 teaspoon- of salt, the grated rind of an orange, 5 slightly-beaten eggs and % cup of Maraschino. If the latter is not available, substitute for it 2 tablespoons of brandy added to water or orange juice, with a teaspoon each of orange extract and lemon juice. Butter generously a selected . plain cylindrical mold, place at bottom a round fitting buttered sheet of paper, and arrange in the mixture. Poach 1 hour and 20 minutes in a slow moderate oven. Let stand 10 minutes before unmolding into a shallow dish. Pour over a hot Sabayon Sauce made with the same kind of PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 7 463 liquid that has been used in the pudding, first removing buttered paper. the brandy. ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING: 1% pound seeded raising ¥% pound currants ¥% pound figs or seeded dates, shredded 6 ounces candied lemon 6 ounces candied orange peel 4% pound brown sugar 1 teaspoon of salt % pound thinly, chopped beef suet, gristle removed ¥ pound sifted flour If desired, substitute orange juice for J 4 cups grated crumbs of stale bread %, teaspoon cinnamon ¥g teaspoon each, ginger and nutmeg A dash each, clove and mace. 1 teaspoon lemon juice Grated rind of 1 lemon % cup molasses % eup brandy 2 eggs, beaten light Thinly chop the raisins, figs, candied’ lemon,’ and orange peel. and thoroughly mix, then add the liquid and eggs. Put all the dry ingredients in a large bowl, Mix all together to a mass of good consistency, and boil 8 hours as directed at ‘‘How to Boil and Steam Puddings.’’ PLAIN PLUM PUDDING: 1 cup grated crumbs of stale bread. 1% cups chopped suet 2 ecupsseeded raisins 1% pound sifted flour 1, teaspoon each, salt, soda, and cinnamon ¥ teaspoon each, clove, nut- meg, and allspice 1 cup brown sugar 1% cup mixed citron and can- died orange peel 14% cups chopped apples ¥% eup molasses 3 eggs, beaten Chop the raisins and shred the citron and orange peel. Mix in the order given. Steam 3 hours as directed at ‘“How to Boil and Steam Puddings.”’ CHEAP PLUM PUDDING: Soak 1 cup of grated crumbs in 1% cup of scalded milk. When cold add 14 cup each, of thinly chopped suet, seeded raisins, currants, and molasses. Add 14 teaspoon each of cinnamon, mace, and soda, also a dash each of clove, nutmeg, and ginger, and 1 teaspoon of salt. Mix all together, adding just enough sifted flour to obtain 'a batter of good consistency. 464 THE FRENCH CHEF IN LEFT-OVER PLUM PUDDING: Slice some left-over plum pudding about %% of an inch thick. Carefully roll the slices in a beaten egg and in bread crumbs. Fry in hot deep fat to a delicate golden color. Serve with Brandy or Lemon Sauce. RAISIN PUDDING: 4 egg-yolks ; 3 cups grated crumbs of stale %4 cup granulated sugar bread 1 lemon, juice and grated 1 quart milk rind ¥Y eup mixed citron and can- 1 teaspoon salt , died orange peel 1 cup seeded raisins, par- 4 egg-whites, beaten very stiff boiled until soft % cup powdered sugar, sifted Thinly shred the citron and orange peel. Pour milk over the crumbs, and, while beating the egg-yolks in a bowl, slowly add the granulated sugar. Continue stir- ring, and slowly add the crumb mixture, lemon, salt, raisins, and mixed citron and orange peel. Pour in a buttered pudding-dish, and bake in a slow moderate oven about 2 hours; then remove, and partly cool. Cover with a meringue made of the 4 egg-whites and the powdered ‘ sugar, and bake in a slack oven until delicately amber- colored. ROLY POLY: Roll -out some biscuit dough in a rectangular sheet 4, of an inch thick. Arrange over it a thick layer of blackberries or blueberries. Dredge over more or less sugar according to the acidity of the fruit used. Roll up, wet the edge, pinch and twist the ends carefully, roll in a pudding-cloth, leaving enough open space to allow it to expand, and steam one hour. Serve hot with a Lemon or Fruit Sauce. Occasionally served also with plain cream or a Hard Sauce. APPLE ROLL: Roll out some rich pie or puff paste in a rectangular shaped sheet 14 of an inch thick. Arrange over it some good cooking aples, chopped, mixed with sugar as needed PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 465 and a little powdered cinnamon. Dot a few bits of butter on top. Roll it same as for Roly Poly, pinch and twist the wetted edge, arrange it in a baking-pan, brush with a beaten egg, and bake 30 minutes in a hot oven. Serve with plain cream or a Hard Sauce lemon-flavored. PEACH TIMBALE: Put in a sducepan over the fire a cup of water with 4 teaspoon of salt; when boiling stir in 4% eup of -washed Carolina rice, and cook until as thick as mush. Then, stirring the rice mixture, add 34 cup of rich milk scalded with 14 cup sugar; and as soon as it boils again, set in a moderate oven and bake till dry., Stir 4 egg-yolks in a bowl, adding a teaspoon of lemon juice and the grated rind of a lemon. Continue stirring. and add .-the hot rice. Dust a buttered Charlotte timbale mold with cake crumbs, and spread the rice ~ mixture over bottom and side. Arrange in center some drained canned peaches, cover top with tice, and-poach as usual in oven until firm on top center. Serve with a sauce made out of the peach syrup. APPLE CHARLOTTE: Peel, quarter, core, and chop 2 pounds of tart appled, and add them at, once to, the following hot syrup: Ina saucepan over a good fire put 3 tablespoons of water. Pour onto center 24 cup of sugar, stirring until dis- solved, and when boiling, add the apples. Stir thor- oughly, cover, bring quickly to a boil again, and remove the lid; cook until the apples are soft, then cook over a slower fire, constantly stirring with a wooden spatula, _ until it forms a consistent mixture, adding % tumbler ~ of apricot marmalade. Rub through a colander, and beat in the grated rind of a half-lemon and a “few bits of butter. Brush bottom and sides of a Charlotte mold with melted clarified butter. Remove crust of white stale bread, slice it 14 inch thick, cut into strips 114-inches wide and as long as height of mold; also some slices to , 466 THE FRENCH CHEF IN fit, to screen bottom and top of mold. Dip each slice in melted clarified butter, and with the slices screen bottom and sides of mold. Fill center with the apple mixture, cover top with buttered slices, and bake 30 minutes in a hot oven. Allow it to cool 10 minutes, then | carefully invert it on a hot serving-dish, and brush with an apricot marmalade, thinned with a few drops of lemon juice. BAKED APPLE DUMPLING: Roll out some chilled short pie crust or puff paste, Y of an inch thick. Cut it into squares large enough to wrap around an apple. . Peel and neatly core some tart apples of even, medium size; if the apples are large, cut them in two. Fill center cavity of each apple with about a tablespoon of sugar, to which has been added a very little grated rind lemon and a few drops of the juice, and set on top a bit of butter. Or, leaving out the lemon, fill cavity with sugar mixed with some cin- namon. Put the center of a small sheet of paste on top of apple, then wrap the end under the apple. Wet the overlapping edges and seal them carefully together, leaving no thin open space for steam or juice to escape. Ornament the top with a stamped figure cut out of thinly rolled out dough, then wet the part adhering to the dumpling and press it into placez Arrange the dumpling, overlapping ends downward, in a baking pan, brush with a beaten egg, and bake 40 minutes in a moderate oven. Ten minutes before done dredge over a little icing sugar. The finished artigle should be richly glazed and retain its shape. Serve warm with a Mapeline or Hard Sauce. GLAZED BANANAS: Peel say 6 bananas, removing stringy portions, and cut in half lengthwise, then in two crosswise, and arrange in a selected buttered pan. In a small saucepan over the fire, put a tablespoon of water, 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, and 1 ounce of butter, and when hot, add 14 eup of sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Bake the bananas 20 minutes or until nicely glazed, basting every PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 467 4 minutes with the syrup in saucepan. Arrange over buttered toast. To the syrup in the pan, over the fire, add 3 tablespoons of water. Stir bottom until boiling, pour it over the bananas, and let stand 2 minutes before serving. Various Hot Desserts FRIED CREAM: | Y% cup sugar 1 pint scalded milk 1% eup sifted flour 2 egg-yolks, slightly beaten Y% teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla extract: Mix the dry ingredients in a saucepan. Set over the fire, and at once, while stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, add about a third of the hot milk. Cook and stir until smooth, and continue stirring while adding very slowly the remaining milk. Cook bubbling and stir 2 minutes, then beat in the eggs. Cook and stir, without bubbling, 5 or 6 minutes or until the eggs are set. Put water in some ramequins, pour out, and spread at bottom of each ramequin a layer of the above mixture nearly an inch thick; straighten the surface, and set in a cold place until next day. Unmold in cracker meal, then roll in cracker meal, beaten egg, and crumbs. Fry in hot deep fat to a crisp delicate golden color. Serve with a hot Vanilla Sauce. RICE CROQUETTES, SWEET: Turn 14 cup of washed rice into 4% cup of boiling water over the fire, adding 14 teaspoon of salt. Stir until boiling and boil until water is level with the rice. Then. add a good half-cup of boiling milk. Cook until rice is tender, drain; and, while rubbing 2 egg-yolks in a bowl, add 2 tablespoons of powdered sugar and a few drops of orange-blossom water. Continue stirring while adding the hot rice and a few small bits of, butter. Mix thoroughly, and spread on a buttered dish to cool. Divide into balls the size of a small egg, shape like a cork, and roll in cracker meal, beaten egg, and crumbs. Fry in hot deep fat to a delicate, erisp, golden color._ Serve with Apricot Sauce. . 468 THE FRENCH CHEF IN FRENCH TOAST: Cut 4 slices of stale bread about 1% of an inch thick. Trim off the brown crust. Toast as usual to a crisp even golden-brown color. While beating 2 eggs in a bowl add a dash of salt and, slowly, 134 cups of milk, also a tea- spoon of sugar. Strain into a shallow dish, and 20 minutes before serving arrange in the bread toast, which should float at top. Let stand 10 minutes, turning over once. Melt a tablespoon of butter in an omelet pan over a Slow fire. When hot arrange in the slices. Cook about 5) minutes or until golden-browned underneath, pouring the remaining milk mixture slowly over the toast. Turn the toast over and cook until browned underneath, then let fall on each a few drops of lemon juice. Arrange on a hot serving-dish, place on each piece a thin slice of jelly or jam, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve with lemon slices or with an Orange Sauce II. FRENCH SUGAR PANCAKE: Make the following batter 6 hours before needed. Sift together 1 cup.of flour, % teaspoon of salt, and 2% tea- spoon of sugar. _Make a depression in center, turn in 2 whole eggs, and while beating constantly, add slowly a generous cup of milk and a teaspoon of melted butter. The batter should be thin enough to run freely in all directions. Wipe a frying-pan that has a diameter at bottom of a small individual salad dish, and heat over a moderate fire. Add a small bit of butter, size of a pea, spread fat over pan, and before the melted butter colors, add to pan a scant small basting-spoonful of the batter. Raise one side of pan so the batter will spread evenly thin over bottom. Cook about a, minute, then turn over and cook the other side about 50 seconds or until delicately golden-colored on both sides. Slip the pancake over a board dusted with' powdered sugar, dredge with sugar, fold it in four, and serve at once with a lemon slice. FRENCH PANCAKE WITH JELLY: Slip from frying-pan some French pancakes pre- pared as above, spread on each pancake some marmalade PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 469 or jelly—currant, crab apple, or apricot jelly preferred. Roll as a stick, and dust with sugar. Impress sugared surface with a red hot poker in order to caramelize the ~ sugar. FRENCH PANCAKE SUZETTE: Serve hot French Sugar Pancakes prepared as above with the following hot sauce: In a small enameled sauce- pan put the juice of an orange, adding 3 sugar cubes previously rubbed on a lemon rind, a teaspoon of lemon Juice, and 134 ounces of best butter cut into bits. Cook while stirring over a slow fire until it forms a thick syrup. If available add 2 tablespoons brandy. GERMAN PANCAKE: % cup sifted flour 1 beaten egg 1 teaspoon salt %, cup milk Add egg to flour and salt, and while stirring, add about half of the milk; beat until smooth, continue beating, and add the remaining milk. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter or lard in a thick frying-pan. Pour in the mixture and bake. : Pudding Sauces VANILLA SAUCE: Put 24 cup of water in a small saucepan over the~ fire, add 14 cup of sugar, and stir and boil 1 minute. Dilute a tablespoon of cornstarch in 2 tablespoons of cold water, and, while beating the above mixture with a small wire egg-beater, add the starch. Beat until it ‘bubbles, remove from the fire, then beat in a few bits of butter and a teaspoon of vanilla extract. LEMON SAUCE: Same as Vanilla Sauce, substituting for the vazilla 1% teaspoon of. lemon extract and a tablespoon of lemon “juice. Or, when a richer sauce is desired, boil 4 cup of water with 34 cup of sugar until clear, then remove I 470 THE FRENCH CHEF IN from fire and stir in a few bits of butter and the flavor- ing. It will improve the flavor of the sauce to add to the sugar a sugar-cube rubbed over a lemon-rind. BRANDY SAUCE: m Put 34 cup of water in a small saucepan over the fire, add 14 eup of sugar and a sugar-cube rubbed over a lemon- rind; boil until clear. While beating with a small wire ege-beater, add a tablespoon of cornstarch diluted in 3 tablespoons of brandy; beat till it bubbles, adding a few drops of lemon juice. Remove from the fire, and beat in a few bits of butter. “WINE SAUCE: Same as Brandy Sauce, substituting wine for brandy. CANNED FRUIT SAUCE: Strain syrup of any canned fruit through a cheese- cloth. If needed, reduce it to obtain 1 cup, or if véry rich, add a little water. Boil 2 minutes, thicken to a light syrupy consistency with a little cornstarch diluted in a little water, or thicken with arrowroot. : GOLDEN SAUCE: Sift together in a small saucepan 14 cup of sugar with a tablespoon of cornstarch. Stirring, add 44 cup of boiling water. Stir over the fire until it bubbles, then beat in 2 slightly-beaten egg-yolks, and cook without boiling 6 minutes or till it masks the spoon. Remove from the fire, and beat in a few bits of butter and 1 teaspoon of vanilla or lemon extract. CREAMY LEMON SAUCE: Sift into a small saucepan 3 ounces of sugar and a _ tablespoon of flour. Add a sugar-cube rubbed on a lemon-rind, and while stirring, gradually add a scant cup of hot scalded milk. Stir and boil 1 minute, then beat in 2 slightly beaten egg- pols, and cook 6 minutes - PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 471 without boiling or until it fairly masks the spoon. Re- move’ from the fire, then add Ye teaspoon of lemon extract and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, and strain. CREAMY ORANGE SAUCE: Same as Creamy Lemon Sauce, only rub the sugar- cube over an orange-rind. Flavor with 14 teaspoon of orange extract and add 3 tablespoons of orange juice and a few drops of lemon juice. ORANGE SAUCE, I: fe Put 34 cup of sour orange jliice, a sugar-cube rubbed on an orange-rind, 2 egg-yolks, and 14 cup of sugar, in a double boiler over, the fire, beating mixture constantly with a small wire egg-beater until it thickens; then beat the hot custard mixture into the whites of two eggs, beaten stiff. ORANGE SAUCE, IT: Beat 2 egg-whites to a stiff dry froth, gently stir in Y% cup of sifted powdered sugar, the juice of a sour orange, a few drops of orange-blossom water, and, if the orange is sweet, add a few drops of lemon juice. HARD SAUCE, LEMON-FLAVORED: ~ Rub 2 ounces of butter until creamy, and, stirring, add gradually about 4 ounces of powdered sugar. ‘Stir until creamy, then add a tablespoon of lemon juice and 4 teaspoon of lemon extract. HARD SAUCE, VANILLA-FLAVORED: Same as preceding recipe, substituting 14 teaspoon of vanilla for the lemon juice and lemon extract. SABAYON SAUCE: Put in a small saucepan 14 cup of sugar, 2 egg-yolks, and 1 whole egg. Stir until thoroughly. mixed, and, while stirring, add slowly 14 cup of sherry.. Set the pan over a slow fire, and stir the bottom constantly with -_ ” 472 THE FRENCH CHEF IN a wooden spoon until it-fairly masks the spoon without allowing it to get too hot. If to be served hot reserve in a bath of hot water, but if served cold remove from the fire and beat with a wire egg-beater until cold. If not available, substitute for the sherry any one of the following: Fruit juice, white wine, Maraschino, ete. SYRUP SAUCE: Put in a small saucepan over the fire 14 cup of water, add a cup of sugar, stir until sugar is dissolved, and boil until clear. Remove from the fire, then beat in a ‘few bits of butter and flavor as desired with any one of the following: Fruit juice, flavoring extract, Mara- schino, Kirsch, ete. MAPELINE SAUCE: Mix in a small saucepan 14 cup sugar and a table- spoon of cornstarch, and while stirring, add slowly 34 cup of boiling water. Cook and beat until it bubbles, then remove from fire and beat in a few bits of butter and a teaspoon of Mapeline. BOILED CUSTARD SAUCE: “ Put in a small saucepan % cup of sugar and 3 egg- yolks, stir until thoroughly mixed, and, while beating | with a small wire egg-beater, slowly add a secant cup of milk. Set over a slow fire, and stir the bottom constantly with a wooden spoon until it fairly masks the spoon. ~ This sauce should not be cooked at too high a tem- perature, else it will curdle. Straining and beating renders the sauce light and smooth. A teaspoon of vanilla may be added as flavoring. If the sauce is to be served cold, beat it until cold. If served hot with plum pudding, etc., this sauce may be flavored with either brandy or Kirsch, or, lacking these, add a teaspoon ‘each of lemon juice and lemon extract. CREAMY SAUCE: Sift together in a small saucepan 4 cup of sugar and a tablespoon of flour, and while stirring, add slowly a PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 473 scant cup of hot scalded rich milk. Set over the fire and beat until boiling. Cook 2 minutes, then remove from fire and beat in 2 slightly-beaten egg-yolks. Cook, stirring constantly over a slow fire below the boiling point, about. 5 minutes or until it fairly masks the spoon. Remove from the fire, add a teaspoon of vanilla, and beat until cold, or strain. If too thick, beat in a little cream. MOLASSES SAUCE: Boil 1 cup of molasses 3 minutes, remove from the ‘fire, then beat in a few bits of best butter, a teaspoon of lemon juice, and a few grains of salt. , JELLY SAUCE, I: Put % cup of apricot or currant jelly in a small saucepan. Beat with a small wire égg-beater, and con- tinuing to beat, add 3 tablespoons‘of sugar and 144 cup of water. Cook and beat until it bubbles, simmer a few minutes, then thicken as usual with a little cornstarch, and give a bubble. Remove from the fire, then beat in a few bits of butter and a few drops of lemon juice. JELLY SAUCE, II: To half a glass of any kind of good jelly add a few drops of lemon juice, and beat until smooth. Add a few grains of salt to two egg-whites, beat them to a stiff dry froth, and gently combine with the first mixture. _CARAMEL SAUCE: Put in a small frying-pan 34 cup of sugar, and add 2 drops of lemon juice. Occasionally lifting the pan off the fire and stirring bottom with a wooden spatula so it may ecaramelize evenly, cook the sugar until it as- sumes a rich golden-brown color. At once add carefully and very slowly 14 cup of hot water. Stir, simmer 3 minutes, then remove from fire, and beat in a few bits of best butter and a teaspoon of vanilla. ~- Cold, this sauce should be of a syrupy consistency. Or, to a Vanilla Sauce add 4 tablespoons of Caramel © Syrup (see recipe). 474 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHOCOLATE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS: ¥ cup sugar 1 cup boiling water or milk 1 tablespoon flour A few bits of butter ¥Y cup powdered chocolate 14 teaspoon vanilla Mix the dry ingredients in a small saucepan. Stir- ring, add the boiling liquid. Cook and stir over the fire until boiling again, and cook 2 minutes. Remove from the fire, then beat in the butter and vanilla. CREAMY CHOCOLATE SAUCE: % cup sugar : 114 eups sealded milk 114 ‘ounces powdered chocolate 2 egg-yolks, slightly beaten 1 tablespoon flour, sifted 1 teaspoon vanilla Mix the dry ingredients in a small saucepan. Stirring the bottom with a wooden spatula, gradually add the ‘boiling milk to pan placed over the fire. Boil 2 minutes. Remove from fire, and, while beating constantly, add the egg-yolks. Replace the pan over a slow fire, stir, and cook below the boiling point about 6 minutes or until the eges are set. Remove and beat in the vanilla. MARSHMALLOW SAUCE: Prepare a Vanilla Sauce as directed at recipe. Add 6 marshmallows cut into pieces, stir until dissolved, re- move from the fire, beat in a few bits of butter and 4 tea- spoon of vanilla. FOAMY SAUCE: Beat two egg-whites to a firm dry froth. Gently mix in % cup of sifted powdered sugar; then add cup of hot milk, and 24 teaspoon of vanilla or lemon extract. Or, cook and stir in a double boiler 4% cup of milk, ¥% eup of sugar, and 2 egg-yolks, until it has thickened. Beat 2 egg-whites with a few grains of salt added, until very firm, and continue to beat, while slowly adding-the above hot custard and % teaspoon of the desired flavor- ing extract. : PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES, 475 CHAPTER XXII COLD DESSERTS Custarps—Tapioca, Ricz, anp Saco Puppings— CREAM Fuans AND BLaNCcMANGE— Waurrprep Cream Dzs- SERTS—FRuIT WxHips—CoMPoTEs |* is occasionally desirable to decorate sweet dishes artistically with fresh flowers alternating with their green leaves, or with fresh berries and their leaves. At- tractive garnishings may also be made with candied fruits or violets, and with figures cut out of Angelica or sliced jellies. For ceremonial events, beautiful decora- tions may be made with Spun Sugar. CUSTARD: Flavoring: 1 pint milk To milk add half a vanilla bean ¥ cup sugar : or a cinnamon stick—failing 3 eggs and 1 egg-yolk these add to strained mix- ture a teaspoon of vanilla Seald the milk with the sugar and flavoring stick or bean. Remove, and partly cool, then, while beating the eggs in a bowl, add the milk very slowly, and strain. Butter some individual small timbales, dredge with powdered sugar, fill with the custard, and arrange in a pudding dish. Pour in boiling water to 34 of mold height, add 14 cup of cold water, and bake in a slow moderate oven until firm on top center. The water should never be allowed to even threaten to boil. CARAMEL CUSTARD: Butter and dredge with powdered sugar say 6 in- dividual custard cups or molds. Pour into bottom of each cup a teaspoon of Caramel Syrup (see recipe), which should always be kept on hand on account of its numerous uses. Prepare a Custard mixture as directed 476 THE FRENCH CHEF IN in preceding recipe, and before straining it, flavor with a teaspoon of Vanilla and beat in a tablespoon of Caramel Syrup. Fill cups and poach as in preceding. CREAM CUSTARD: Using 6 egg-yolks and 1 egg-white, instead of whole eggs, proceed as in either of two preceding recipes. RICE CUSTARD: Put 24 cup of left-over boiled rice in a strainer . placed in a saucepan. Let cold water run over it, then, using a carving fork, separate the kernels. Drain 1 hour. Fill each buttered cup 24 full of a Custard mix- ture made as directed in any of the three preceding recipes. Fill each mold with the rice and poach as directed. CHOCOLATE CUSTARD: ¥% cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 2 ounces powdered chocolate, 3 egg-whites unsweetened 3 heaping tablespoons of sifted 1 _ pint scalded milk, cooled powdered sugar 2 eggs and 3 egg-yolks Dredge some buttered individual table ramequins with sugar. Mix the granulated sugar and chocolate in a saucepan. Stir while adding half of the milk, and boil a minute, stirring. Remove and cool. Beat in a bowl the 2 whole eggs and 3 yolks, with the flavoring added, and still beating, pour in very gradually the cooled chocolate mixture and remaining milk. Strain. Fill the timbale molds, and poach same as Custard above until firm on top center. When done, remove and let partly cool. Beat the egg-whites to.a firm stiff-dry froth, gently mix in the powdered sugar, and with a pastry bag and star tube, ornament top of custard, then dredge with sugar, and bake to a delicate amber color in a slack oven. L 2S - PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 477 FLOATING ISLAND: 3 egg-whites Y vanilla bean A dash salt 3 egg-yolks 2% cups milk _ 2 tablespoons sifted flour \% cup sugar To the egg-whites in a bowl add salt and beat to a stiff froth that will bear an egg. Put the milk, with a tablespoon of the sugar and vanilla bean, in a ’ shallow pudding pan, stir, and bring to a bubble. With a bast- ing spoon shape the egg-whites into an oval form. Drop 4 ovals in the milk, allowing space for their expansion. Let milk simmer very slowly, cooking the ovals about 3 minutes on each side. Turn over as needed, then, using a skimmer, remove the ovals to a strainer. Finish shap- ing and cooking the remaining egg-whites. To the remain- ing sugar in saucepan add the flour, mix well, then, while stirring, slowly add the boiling milk. Stir and boil 2 minutes. Then, whilé beafing the egg-yolks in a bowl, add a little of the hot milk mixture; combine the two mixtures and cook, below the boiling point, till the eggs are set and it masks the spoon. Strain the sauce and beat while cooling. If the cooled sauce is too thick, beat in a little cream. Pour into a shallow glass dish, arrange over it the cooked meringue, and set on each oval a slice of currant or crab-apple jelly. If vanilla bean has not been used, add to sauce a teaspoon of vanilla extract. DATE CUSTARD: Chop a cup of dates, and leaving out the rice, pro- ceed as directed at ‘‘Rice Custard.’’ ORANGE CUSTARD MERINGUE: Divide 2 peeled and seeded sour oranges into sections, removing white substance and rind. Arrange in a but- tered pudding pan dusted with powdered sugar, and strain into it a Custard mixture flavored only with a half- teaspoon of orange extract. Poach same as Custard. When done, remove and let partly cool, then cover and ornament it with a meringue made of 3 egg-whites and 478 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Ns 3 heaping tablespoons of sifted powdered sugar. Dredge over some sugar, and bake in a slack oven until delicately amber-colored. , BANANA PUDDING: 4 bananas peeled, stringy 1 teaspoon lemon juice parts removed 1 egg and 1 egg-yolk, slightly 1 ounce butter beaten 4 cup sugar % cup rich milk A little grated rind of lemon - Rub the bananas through a purée strainer. Rub the butter until creamy, and gradually add the sugar; con- tinue stirring, and add the lemon-rind and juice, the fruit pulp, eggs, and milk. Turn into a buttered pud- ding mold dusted with powdered sugar, and poach as usual in a slow moderate oven until firm on top center. Serve with a Lemon Sauce, or, leaving out the sauce, cover pudding with a‘meringue made as directed at that recipe. TAPIOCA PUDDING: Soak over night 14 cup of pearl tapioca; drain. To a pint of milk in a saucepan over the fire add % eup of sugar and a sugar-cube rubbed on a lemon-rind. Stir until boiling, then, constantly stirring bottom with a wooden spatula, add and cook the tapioca until trans- parent and soft, stirring all the while. When done, place the pan in a bath of hot water. ‘While beating 2 or 3 egg-yolks in a bowl, add 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and a few drops of lemon or orange extract. Turn into the tapioca mixture while stirring constantly until the eggs are set. Beat 2 egg-. whites, with a dash of salt added, until stiff; fold these ‘into the first mixture, removed from the fire. When cooled, serve in a shallow glass dish with a Creamy Sauce, lemon-flavored, or with a Lemon Sauce. SAGO PUDDING: Soak 14 cup of sago 2 hours; drain, and proceed as directed in preceding recipe. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 479 RICE RAISIN PUDDING WITH LEFT-OVER RICE: 1% to 2 cups left-over boiled 14 cup Sun Maid seedless raisins rice ; ¥% teaspoon each, lemon juice 1% eup sugar and extract 2 eggs 1 sugar-cube rubbed on lemon 1% cups sealded milk ' rind and dissolved in milk Put rice in a strainer, placed in a saucepan. Let cold water run over it and with a carving fork separate the kernels. Drain 1 hour on strainer. ‘Arrange a layer of rice at bottom of a buttered pudding-dish dusted with sugar; spread over the raisins and cover with a layer of the remaining rice. While beating the eggs in a bowl, gradually add first the sugar, then the cooled milk and flavoring, and beat well. Strain into first mixture in .. pudding-dish, and dredge over some powdered cinnamon. Poach same as Custard in a very moderate oven until firm on top center. Serve with a Lemon or Creamy Sauce. MOLDED RICE AU CARAMEL: 2% cup washed rice 3 or 4 egg-yolks 1 cup boiling water Y% cup sugar 14 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 pint (generous measure) 3 or 4 egg-whites, beaten stiff milk ¥%, cup Caramel Syrup Stir the rice in the boiling water over the fire and boil until the rice is level with the water, then drain. Turn the rice into the boiling milk and boil until tender adding salt and a small vanilla bean. Turn the rice mixture into a bowl to cool. There should be about 144 cup of rice liquor with rice; if not, add a tablespoon of cream, and remove bean.. Add the vanilla extract to the egg-yolks and while beating slowly add the sugar. Then combine with the rice mixture, and lastly, fold in the egg-whites. Butter a melon-shaped mold, dredge with powdered sugar, and pour in the Caramel Syrup (see recipe). Carefully arrange in the rice mixture, and poach as usual in a slow moderate oven about 1 hour, or until firm on top center. When cooléd, unmold on a i 480 THE FRENCH CHEF IN cold dish. A Creamy Sauce, vanilla-flavored, is usually served in a boat. The caramel used in this article should be flavored with a little vanilla. JUNKET CUSTARD: Use a crushed junket tablet dissolved in a tablespoon of water, or-a tablespoon of rennet liquid, to each quart milk. These products are extracted from the rennin, a ferment which is found in the glands of the calf. Method: Put a quart of milk in a saucepan over a slow fire, adding, and stirring until dissolved, 4 cup of sugar, and a dash of salt, and let stand until just luke- warm. Add the junket and a teaspoon of the desired flavoring, and stir. Fill a glass cup and let stand in a moderately warm place until jellied or set. When chilled, serve with whipped cream. CARAMEL JUNKET: Proceed as in above recipe, using one-half less sugar and adding 14 cup of Caramel Syrup, also 14 cup less - milk. Flavor with a’ teaspoon of vanilla. LEONTINE ALMOND CREAM FLAN: ¥% cup granulated sugar 1 ounce almond macaroon ¥% eup sifted flour erumbs A dash of salt 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 pint sealded milk 3 egg-whites, beaten stiff dry ” 2 or 3 egg-yolks ? 3 heaping tablespoons powdered 1 teaspoon melted butter sugar Mix in a saucepan the granulated sugar, flour, and salt, and while beating. add a third of the hot milk; beat constantly over the fire until thick and smooth, and continue beating while slowly adding the remaining milk. Stir and cook until smooth and boiling, simmer two. minutes, remove from the fire, and while stirring, add the egg-yolks, slightly beaten, the butter, vanilla, and macaroon crumbs. Cook over a slow fire without boiling, stirring until the eggs are set and the mixture thick. Remove from the fire and beat till partly cooled. Pour in a buttered glass oven dish and straighten surface. é PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 481 Cover and ornament with a meringue made with the egg- ‘whites and sifted powdered sugar, dust with sugar, and bake 10- minutes in a slack oven. CHOCOLATE CREAM FLAN: Samé as preceding, only mix with the granulated sugar and the flour 114 ounces of powdered unsweetened chocolate. CORNSTARCH BLANC-MANGE: ¥% cup sugar A dash of salt ts 4 cup cornstarch A piece of vanilla bean 1 pint milk At option, a slightly-beaten egg-yolk Seald the milk with the vanilla bean. Thoroughly mix dry ingredients in a saucepan. Set over the fire and while constantly beating and stirring the sugar- cornstarch mixture, add half of the hot milk and-as it thickens, add the remaining. milk. Stir or beat until thick, smooth and bubbling. Cook about 5 minutes, the pan placed in boiling water. If desired, beat in the egg-yolk and cook without boiling a few minutes longer. Turn into wet molds or cups, and remove bean. Cornstarch Blanc-Mange should be just thick enough to retain its shape. If lacking the vanilla bean, add to - finished article 14 teaspoon of vanilla extract. CHOCOLATE BLANC-MANGE: Same as preceding, except stir in with the sugar and flour 14 cup of powdered unsweetened chocolate, and use a trifle less cornstarch. Whipped Cream By whipping cream stiff it increases to about two and‘a half times its bulk. Thoroughly chill cream before whipping. Heavy cream that is to be combined with other materials to make dessert is usually first thinned with about a third or a fourth of its bulk in rich milk. When the whipped cream is to be used for ornamentation, thick cream is usually thinned with a fifth of its bulk in milk, 16 482 THE FRENCH CHEF IN though occasionally thick chilled cream may be beaten undiluted. It should be noted that unchilled thick cream beaten a few seconds too long will turn into butter. Method of Whipping Thick Cream: Pour the cream into a bowl that has a deep, narrow, curved bot- tom sharply converging nearly to a point. Set it over the ice 2 or 3 hours before needed. Set the bowl in ice water or in cracked ice, then, using a chilled wire whip or Dover beater, beat slowly at first, gradually in- creasing the speed, and beating until stiff. This will require but a few minutes if the work is done in a cold place. Arrange the cream on a fine sieve and let stand a few minutes before folding it into other mixtures. Method of Whipping Thin Cream: Chill thin cream as directed above. Then, using a chilled wire whip or Dover beater, beat as directed. As soon as whipped cream has formed and floats on top, force it into the cream underneath, then beat again until stiff, and using a skimmer, remove the whipped cream onto a fine sieve. Collect the thin cream under sieve to add to cream in bowl, and repeat same process until the whip has no more power on the too-low cream. The remaining cream is often used to soak gelatine, when a greater firmness is needed so that whipped cream may be turned out in shape; then use a tablespoon, or half an envelope, of granulated gelatine to each pint of chilled cream whipped stiff-firm. Soak in a small saucepan, for 20 minutes, 1 tablespoon of gelatine in 14 cup of the remaining cream, then set it in a bath of hot water, stir until thoroughly dissolved, strain through a cheese-cloth, and as it cools fold it in a chilled whipped cream. \ Whipped Cream for Sauce: Whipped cream for sauce should always be made of thin cream, and often the top of table cream is suitable for this purpose. Proceed as for whipping thin cream. When chilled thin cream will not whip, add a chilled egg-white. # PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 483 Whipped cream is always sweetened and flavored after it has been whipped, then gently mix in with a wooden spoon the sifted powdered sugar and add flavor- ing. MOCHA CREAM CHANTILLY: Using 2 ounces of ground coffee and % cup of water, make a very strong coffee. Strain through a doubled cheese-cloth. Add % cup of sugar, and cook over a slow fire until as thick as molasses. Cool. Whip as above a pint chilled cream until stiff. Drain on a fine sieve 15 minutes, then using a wooden spoon, gently mix the cooled syrup into the chilled cream. Serve chilled in a chilled glass with light cakes.. VARIOUS WHIPPED CREAM DESSERTS: Fruit drained of, juice may: be rubbed through a purée strainer that will hold back the seeds and the pulp, sweetened as needed with pulverized sugar, and gently mixed with a wooden spoon in a chilled whipped cream. Or melt over hot water 2 or 3 heaping tablespoons of cocoa or grated Baker’s Chocolate, to which a tablespoon or so of cream has been added, and sweeten to taste. When cold it may be added to some chilled whipped cream. Flavor with a little vanilla. Or, simply sweeten some whipped cream to the taste, flavor as desired, and add some chopped nuts. All-these are served chilled in chilled glasses, with light cakes. APPLE WHIP: Rub the pulp of cold baked or stoned apples through a sieve into a bowl, to obtain about a cup of pulp. Sweeten with pulverized sugar to suit the case and chill. Add 2 chilled egg-whites and beat the thoroughly chilled mixture until stiff. Serve with a Lemon or Creamy Sauce, or utilize it as a filling for layer cake. STRAWBERRY WHIP: : Mash in a chilled bowl a cup of strawberries, sweeten | with about 24 cup of pulverized sugar, chill, add 2 484 THE- FRENCH CHEF IN . chilled egg-whites and beat.vigorously in a cold place until stiff. Or fold the egg-whites, beaten stiff, in the fruit mixture. LEMON WHIP: 2 ounces sugar 3 tablespoons lemon juice 2 sugar-cubes rubbed on lemon- 3 egg-yolks rind . 3 egg-whites Put sugar, egg-yolks, and lemon juice in a double __ boiler, and constantly stirring, cook until thick. Add a dash of salt to the egg-whites, and beat them to a stiff firm froth. Continue beating, pouring all at once into the first hot mixture. Beat until nearly cold. Serve ~- chilled in a chilled glass, or serve with an Orange or Lemon Jelly as a substitute for whipped cream. SABAYON IN GLASS: 3. egg-yolks yy cup sherry, Sauterne, Mara- 2 eggs schino, or brandy, or fruit Y% eup sugar juice with a little lemon ~ juice added Same process as for Sabayon Sauce. When done beat with a wire egg-beater until nearly cooled. Pack in crystal glasses. APPLE SAUCE: Peel, quarter, and core 2 pounds of good cooking apples, and slice thin. If the apples are the early green variety, do not peel them. Put over a good fire in a saucepan 1% cup of water and % eup of sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved, boil a minute, then stir in the apples, and cover so it comes quickly to a boil,. as the quicker the apples are cooked the better will be "the sauce. When boiling, remove the lid and finish cooking the apples until tender, stirring bottom as needed with a wooden spatula to prevent scorching. Rub through a colander, stir in a few bits of butter, then a little lemon juice, adding a piece of lemon-rind, which remove before oe apples have cooled. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 485 BAKED APPLES: Use brown or granulated sugar. Polish some good cooking apples, cut a thin slice from bldssom end, and core. Arrange the apples to just cover bottom of a pan, adding for 6 or 8 apples, a hot syrup made of half a cup of water and as much sugar. Bake in a moderate oven until soft, basting occasionally with syrup in pan. Apples that do not bake well may be arranged in a shallow pudding-pan with the same syrup as above added, and baked tightly. covered until tender, then remove the lid, and set the pan over the highest grate of the oven until nicely glazed, turning pan around as needed. For these baking apples a stick of cinnamon may be added to the syrup, or, good tart apples prepared as above are arranged in pan, and the core cavities filled with sugar mixed with cinnamon or grated rind of lemon, a bit of butter set over top, and baked. Compotes \ Compote is fresh fruit stewed in sugar syrup. It is occasionally served with cake as a dessert or served with a meat course. BANANA COMPOTE: Peel 5 sound ripe bananas, remove stringy parts, and slice crosswise 14 of an inch thick. Boil until clear 24 eup of water with as much sugar. Add half of the bananas and cook until tender. With a skimmer, remove the bananas to a bowl, and in the boiling syrup left in pan cook the remainder of the bananas until tender, lift out and put in bowl with the others. Reduce the liquor to consistency of ordinary syrup, and pour it boiling hot over the bananas; add to syrup, if desired, a piece of lemon-rind and a teaspoon of lemon juice. APPLE COMPOTE: Peel 5 apples and cut into quarters, remove core centers, slice each quarter lengthwise in 3 or 4 evenly thick slices; and proceed as directed at ‘‘Banana Com- pote.’’ The apples require longer cooking, and it may be necessary to add a little boiling water. 486 THE FRENCH CHEF IN STRAWBERRY COMPOTE: To 14 cup water in a saucepan over the fire add a cup of sugar, and boil until clear. Turn into the boiling syrup 1 pint of sound, ripe strawberries, and shaking pan, cook 14% minute. With a skimmer remove the berries to a serving dish, reduce the liquor to a syrupy consistency, remove and let cool. Pour over the berries. GOOSEBERRY COMPOTE: Made in the same manner as Strawberry Compote, cooking the berries until rather soft. RHUBARB COMPOTE: Peel some stalks of rhubarb and cut into inch sections. Make a syrup and proceed as directed at ‘‘Strawberry Compote,’’ using a cup of sugar to each pound of fruit. Cook the rhubarb very slowly about 5 minutes or until slightly tender, gently shaking the pan. The pieces must retain their shape. Then, using a skimmer, remove them to a bowl, reduce the liquor to a syrupy consistency, and pour it boiling hot onto the rhubarb. ORANGE COMPOTE: Take 8 oranges, and very thinly shred the rind of 2; peel all through the meat, the knife following the inner white skin; collect all the juice. Divide the oranges in sections, removing seeds, white pulp, and tough portions. In a saucepan over the fire add 114 cups of water, as much sugar, 1 or 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, according to the sweetness of the fruit, and the shredded rind, stir until boiling, and boil 38 minutes. Add half of the oranges, and simmer 30 minutes or until tender. Then, leaving the shredded rind in the syrup, with a skimmer lift the oranges out, put them in a bowl, then cook the remaining oranges as before. When tender remove the oranges to bowl, as above, boil the syrup 3 minutes, and pour it on the oranges. Mandarin oranges cooked in this manner are very nice. Serve cold with ice cream or with Bavarian Cream, or may be served with cakes as a plain dessert. ~ es PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 487 CHAPTER XXIII GELATINE DESSERTS, BAVARIAN CREAMS AND CHARLOTTE RUSSE Rules for Making Gelatine Desserts yes making desserts with gelatine use the quantity directed on package of the manufactured product, at least for the first time, as after that you may draw your own conclusions and do the mixing according to results. The best and most delicate gelatines are those that are just stiff enough.to retain their shape. Usually a tablespoon or half of an envelope of granulated gela- tine will stiffen or jelly two cups or one pint of liquor. In this must be included the soaking liquor, fruit juice, flavoring, or coloring used in the mixture. Always soak the gelatine 20 minutes in four times as much cold liquid or until softened. It is best to stir it occasionally. Put the amount of liquid required in a saucepan over the fire, add the sugar, stir until dissolved, and boil until clear. Remove from the fire, and, using a wire egg- beater, beat in the gelatine, taking care not to pour any gelatine on the side of pan. Stir bottom with wooden spoon, and after the gelatine is thoroughly dissolved, strain it through a fine sieve, then pour it into a weit mold and set aside in a cold place until jellied. The mixture should not boil after the gelatine is added, else it will be tough. In cold weather the gelatine will be firm in 5 or 6 hours, but in hot weather it will be necessary to set it over the ice, or make it the day before using it; or, if no ice on hand and the gelatine has to be served after six hours, use 114 tablespoons of gelatine to each pint of liquid. This excess of gelatine is not de- sirable, however, as it will impair its flavor and the tong standing will make it tough. Russian jelly differs from the above plain-moulded gelatine, in that the cooling, gelatine is set in ice water or in broken ice, and just before it begins to set is beaten to 488 THE FRENCH CHEF IN a stiff froth nearly firm, then arranged in a wet mold and set aside in a cold place until firm. Snow pudding is a Russian gelatine mixture with stiff-beaten egg-whites added. It is often served in a glass with cream. LEMON JELLY: Soak 2 tablespoons or an envelope of granulated gelatine 20 minutes in 14 cup of cold water. Boil a pint of water and a scant cup of sugar until clear, adding a thin slice of lemon-rind. Remove from the fire, dissolve in the soaked gelatine, add 14 cup of lemon juice, and strain through a cheese-cloth. Pour into a wet mold, and set in a cold place until firm. ORANGE JELLY: Soak 2 tablespoons or an envelope of granulated gelatine 20 minutes in 14 cup of cold water. Boil % pint of water with a cup of sugar until clear, adding a thin slice of orange rind. Remove from the fire, and dissolve in the gelatine. Using a glass squeezer, extract the juice of some oranges cut in half, sufficient to obtain a cup of juice, and also the juice of a lemon. Strain juice through a cheese-cloth into the gelatine, and mold as in preceding recipe. WINE JELLY: Soak 2 tablespoons or an envelope of granulated gelatine 20 minutes in 14 cup of cold water. Boil a scant pint of water and a cup of sugar until clear. Remove from the fire, dissolve in the gelatine, and add 24 cup of wine and the juice of 1 or 2 lemons. Mold as above. GRAPE FRUIT JELLY: Soak 2 tablespoons or an envelope of granulated gelatine 20 minutes in 14 cup of water. Boil until clear Y cup of water and a scant cup of sugar with a thin sliee of grape fruit rind added. Remove from the fire, dissolve in the gelatine, then add 1 gill of sherry and ae e PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 489 nearly 2 cups of grapefruit juice and pulp. When the gelatine is nearly at setting point, pour it in a wet mold, and set in a cold place until firm. Cut the jelly into small cubes, arrange it in baskets made from the grapefruit skin, and place on top a nice strawberry or a candied cherry. ~- FRUITS MOLDED IN JELLY: Make a Lemon, Orange, or Wine Jelly. Put a wet mold in broken ice, pour over bottom a layer, 14 inch thick, of a cooled Lemon Jelly near setting, and when firm, arrange'in some thin slices of any kind of soft fruit. Pour in enough gelatine to screen the fruit, and let stand till firm. Repeat until mold is full. Serve with a Whipped Cream or with a Creamy Sauce. If the fruit used is such as pears or apples, cook - sliced till tender in the syrup before the gelatine is dissolved. With the skimmer, lift out the fruit and reserve to use as directed above, and with liquor finish to make a Lemon or Wine Jelly. PINEAPPLE JELLY: Drain a can of pineapple. Soak 2 tablespoons or an envelope of granulated gelatine 20 minutes in 14 cup of cold water. Boil a few minutes 144 cups of pineapple liquor with 24 cup of sugar, remove from the fire, dissolve in the gelatine, add 1 cup of cold water and the juice of 1 lemon, strain and let cool. Pour over bottom of a wet mold set in broken ice enough gelatine to obtain a layer 14 inch thick. When firm arrange in some sliced pineapple, and pour over enough gelatine to screen the fruit; when again firm, repeat the same process until the mold is full. FRENCH ORANGE JELLY: Cut from as many oranges as services a thick slice from blossom ends, leaving about 24 of each orange ‘intact. Remove juice and pulp of oranges and with them make an Orange Jelly. Cut the edge of each orange into fancy pointed shape like saw teeth. Cut the firm, chilled 490 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Orange Jelly into cubes, arrange in orange cup, ornament top with whipped sweetened cream, and set on top center a strawberry or a candied cherry. RICE APRICOT JELLIED TIMBALE: Drain a can of apricots, chill the drained fruit, and reduce the fruit liquor to 114 cups. ~ Add 1 ounce of sugar, stir and boil until clear, remove from the fire, then dissolve in a scant tablespoon of granulated gelatine that has soaked 20 minutes in 14 eup of cold water. Add a teaspoon of lemon juice, then strain and let éool. Chill a timbale mold in broken ice, pour over bottom and side of mold % cup of the cooled gelatine near setting point, tipping the mold around to spread the gelatine all over inside surface of mold. Let stand until firm. Repeat the same process until the bottom and side of mold are sereened with a coating of firm gelatine. Dip outer side of some apricots into the cooling jelly, arrange them at bottom of mold, and pour over cooling jelly to cover. When firm, arrange around this layer, against the side of the jellied mold, a ring of apricots, outer sides leaning against the jellied side of mold. Then fill the mold with some cold boiled : rice, pour in gelatine to screen rice, and ehill. APPLE GELATINE A LA SUEDOISE: Put in a saucepan over the fire 124 cups of water, 1 cup of sugar, and half a vanilla bean or a little lemon- rind and juice. Boil until clear. In this boiling syrup slowly cook by batches, until just tender so they retain their shape, about 7 or 8 middle-sized tart apples, peeled, cored, quartered, and each quarter cut into even halves lengthwise. Use a skimmer to lift the apples, and reserve them on a dish. Boil the syrup 2 minutes and strain. Put in a shallow pudding-dish 14 cup of this syrup, and _stir in enough carmine coloring to heavily color it. Ar- ‘range in half of the apples, set over a slow fire, give a few bubbles, and carefully remove the apples and chill. Soak 20 minutes in a small saucepan 1 tablespoon of PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 491 granulated gelatine in 14 cup of cold water, then set it in hot water. When dissolved strain and stir it‘in the ~ cooling white syrup. o If available, add 2 tablespoons of Maraschino or Kirsch. Chill a Charlotte or Bavarian mold in ice water, pour in the cooled gelatine syrup, and let stand until it begins to set, occasionally’ tipping the mold on all sides; then carefully, pour out and set the gelatine in a bowl, thus leaving bottom and sides of mold screeried with jellied gelatine. Arrange at bottom a layer of white apples, and pour over cooling aspic to cover. When firm, arrange in a layer of carmine apples, and pour over cooling aspic to cover, repeating same process until mold is full. Chill. r CARAMEL JELLY: 1 tablespoon granulated gela-~ 14 cup Caramel Syrup (see tine recipe) ¥ cup cold water 1 cup rich milk 1 eup sugar ¥, eup table cream 1 teaspoon vanilla Soak the gelatine 20 minutes in cold water. Scald “the milk and cream, sugar added, remove from the fire, and dissolve in the gelatine. Let stand 5 minutes, add the Caramel Syrup and vanilla, and strain into a wet mold. Set in a cold place until firm. Unmold and serve with Creamy Sauce. JELLY RUBANES: Make a Lemon or Wine Jelly. Before the jelly sets, divide it in three equal parts. Color two of these parts with different colorings dissolved in a teaspoon of water. Chill a wet mold in broken ice. Pour in one part of the cooling jelly near setting, and let stand until firm. Pour in another part, and when firm, pour in the last part and let stand until firm. Or, using only one Lemon or Wine Jelly without coloring, pour into mold a layer of cooling gelatine. When firm, arrange on it a layer of any one of the follow- ing ingredients at your disposal: Nuts, candied fruit, \ 492 THE FRENCH CHEF IN - lady fingers, or fresh soft fruit, canned fruit, ete. Pour over it cooling aspic to comfortably cover it, and repeat in the same order until the mold is full. Proceeding in the same manner with different jellies, colors, and flavors, the Rubané may be varied indefinitely. CHOCOLATE JELLY: Boil % cup of sugar, 1 cup of water,.and 2 ounces of grated Baker’s Chocolate. Stir bottom of pan with a wooden spoon until the chocolate is thoroughly melted. Remove from the fire, dissolve in 114 tablespoons of gelatine soaked 20 minutes in 14 cup of water. Stir, and let stand 5 minutes. Stirring, add 1 cup of cold water and a teaspoon of vanilla, and strain into a wet mold. Chill until set. SNOW PUDDING JELLIED: Soak an envelope or 2 tablespoons of granulated gelatine 20 minutes in 14 cup of cold water. Boil 1 pint of water with a cup of sugar until clear. Remove from the fire, dissolve in the gelatine, add_the juice and rind of two lemons, and let stand until nearly cold; then strain in a bowl, and set in a cold place. When cooled and be- - fore it sets, place bowl in ice water and beat vigorously with a wire egg-beater until frothy, then continue beating while adding 2 or 3 egg-whites beaten to a stiff dry froth. Beat until light and spongy. Turn into a wet mold to form or pour in chilled glasses. Serve with a Creamy Sauce. JELLIED CHOCOLATE RUBANE: = Soak an envelope or 2 tablespoons of granulated gelatine 20 minutes in 1% cup of cold water. Boil 1 pint of milk (generous measure), 1 cup of sugar, and 24 cup of grated chocolate until chocolate is dissolved. Re- move from the fire, dissolve in the gelatine, let nearly cool, and add a teaspoon of vanilla. Put a wet mold in broken ice, pour over bottom a layer of the gelatine, let stand until firm, then arrange over it any one of the following ingredients: Sliced dates or figs, raisins, PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 493 shredded citron, nuts, ete. Pour over another layer of oa and when firm, repeat these layers until mold is Bavarian Cream Recipes Bavarian creams are heated sweetened fruit juice and pulp, usually flavored with a little lemon juice, or scalded sweetened milk with egg-yolks added, and fla- vored with vanilla, coffee,; or chocolate, etc., soaked gelatine being dissolved in either of these mixtures. When the gelatine mixture is cooled to nearly the setting . point, the mixture is beaten constantly over ice or in ice water until it begins to’thicken. At this time a chilled pastry cream beaten to a stiff froth is folded over and over into the gelatine mixture until it, forms a fluffy, smooth mass that holds its shape. Arrange in a wet mold and chill in- mold. Much care must be taken not to let the gelatine mixture cool too long before beginning to beat and fold in the cream, else it will not be smooth, as small bits of jelly will be left. in the mixture; and if the whipped cream is added too soon, the mixture will lose much of its lightness. STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM: Partly crush 11% cups of strawberries with 34 cup sugar added. Let stand 1 hour, then rub through a fine sieve. Soak 114 tablespoons of gelatine in 14 cup of cold water 20 minutes and let it dissolve by standing the cup in hot water. Combine the two mixtures, adding a tablespoon of lemon juice, and let stand in a cold place in a bowl until it just begins to set. Then set bowl in broken ice or ice water and beat until mixture begins to thicken; then mix in a pint of chilled pastry cream ' whipped stiff-dry. Arrange it in a mold lined with sugared strawberries cut in halves.’ Chill. PINEAPPLE BAVARIAN CREAM: 1% tablespoons (level) gelatine 1 tablespoon lemon juice 12 ounces grated pineapple 1 pint pastry cream, chilled 14 cup (scant) sugar 494 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Thoroughly drain the grated pineapple from its liquor. Soak the gelatine 30 minutes in 14 cup of the pineapple liquor. Chill the grated pineapple. To re- maining pineapple liquor add the sugar and boil until clear. Remove from the fire, then dissolve in the gelatine. Add the lemon juice, then strain into a bowl, and set aside to cool. As soon as it begins to set, place in ice water and beat until it just begins to thicken. Add the chilled pineapple, beat a few seconds, then fold in the cream beaten stiff-dry, to bottom of bowl. Mold and ehill. VANILLA BAVARIAN CREAM: Seald 114 cups of rich milk or part cream, then re- move from the fire. Soak 114 tablespoons or 34 of an envelope of gelatine 20 minutes in 14 cup of cold water. Rub 3 egg-yolks in a small saucepan, continue stirring, and slowly add 44 cup of sugar, then the milk. Cook the mixture, placed in hot water, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until it just begins to thicken; then add the gelatine, stir until thoroughly dissolved, and add a teaspoon of vanilla and strain into a bowl. When cooled, set it in ice water or broken ice, beat until it begins to thicken, then fold in, over and over, 1144 cups of chilled cream, whipped to a stiff-dry froth. Chill in mold. 2 CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAM: Same as Vanilla Bavarian Cream. Mix into the sugar 2 or 3 ounces of powdered chocolate unsweetened, or melt that amount of Baker’s Chocolate over hot water and add it to a Vanilla Bavarian Cream mixture. NEAPOLITAN BAVARIAN CREAM, WITHOUT CREAM: %4 cup sugar 2 tablespoous or an envelope 1% cups milk scalded of gelatine ¥% vanilla bean or a teaspoon % cup cold milk or water vanilla :extract 3 egg-whites 3 egg-yolks A dash of salt PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 495 Soak the gelatine 20 minutes in the cold milk. Put the sugar, vanilla bean, and the egg-yolks in a sauce- pan. Stirring, add the milk- very slowly, cook over a slow fire, constantly stirring with a wooden spoon until it slightly masks the spoon; then ‘stir in the gelatine until thoroughly dissolved. Strain and cool. As soon as it begins to thicken, beat; then fold in, over and over, the egg-whites with salt added and beaten to a stiff-dry froth. Arrange at once in a wet mold, and chill. Lack- ing the vanilla bean, add vanilla extract when removing the mixture from the fire. BAVARIAN CREAM RUBANE: Arrange at bottom of a chilled Bavarian mold a layer of prepared Vanilla Bavarian Cream mixture made as directed at that recipe. Let stand in broken ice until firm, then pour over it another layer of same Bavarian cream flavored with some chocolate melted over hot water, or with the pulp of some strawberries with a little carmine coloring added. Let stand until firm. Continue to fill mold with alternate layers of different flavors and colors. It is necessary for the beauty of this dessert that the layers be of an even thickness. Or, different kinds of Bavarian Cream may be made, separately. RICE BAVARIAN CREAM: 1 tablespoon or 14 envelope 1 pint (geilerous measure) gelatine sealded milk ¥% cup cold water 3% cup sugar 1 cup boiling water 1 teapoon each, lemon and ¥4 teaspoon salt almond extract, or 2 ta- 2% cup washed rice blespoons Maraschino 1% cups chilled cream Soak the gelatine 20 minutes in the cold water. To ° a cup of boiling water with the salt added, in a sauce- pan over the fire, add the rice and stir until boiling ; cook until the water is level with the rice, then add the boiling milk and cook until the rice is tender. Put, a purée strainer on a saucepan, and pour in the rice \ ‘ ~ 496 THE FRENCH CHEF IN mixture, collecting the rice liquor. Re-heat the. liquor, with the sugar added, to a boil. Remove from the fire, set the gelatine in a saucepan in hot water, and stir until dissolved, then strain it into the rice liquor, and stir. Rub the drained rice through a purée strainer into the rice-gelatine liquor; set it in a cold place to cool, and beat occasionally while cooling, adding the flavoring. When cooled, set it in broken ice, and as it begins to thicken, fold in, over and over, the chilled cream whipped stiff-dry. Arrange mixture in a wet 2-quart mold and let stand 2 hours over the ice in the refrigerator. Un- mold, and serve with an Orange Sauce I or a plain whipped cream. Recipes for Charlotte Russe Charlotte Russes are special molds lined with lady fingers, or strips of sponge or Genoese cake, with centers filled with a cream gelatine mixture or with a sweetened whipped cream with gelatine dissolved in fruit juice, liquor, ete., added. How to Line Mold for Charlotte Russe: Cover bottom of mold with a blank paper. To line the bottom with lady fingers, cut the lady fingers tapering at one end, the pointed ends meeting just at center, the larger ends being cut to fit against side of mold at bottom; then line side of mold with the lady fingers, placing them straight up and at right angles to bottom, the solidly joined strips entirely covering the mold’s surface. Fill center with any one of the Charlotte Russe mixtures, then cut the lady fingers level with edge of mold and with the straightened surface of the Charlotte Russe mixture. Often the molds are simply lined with the lady fingers, arranged so as to leave an even open space be- tween them. NEAPOLITAN CHARLOTTE RUSSE: 1 tablespoon gelatine 1 ~scant cup or 7 ounces sugar ¥, cup cold water 6 egg-yolks : ¥% vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon 114 cups scalded milk vanilla % pint chilled cream PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES. 497 Soak the gelatine 30 minutes in the cold water, then let stand in hot water until thoroughly dissolved. Strain through a ‘cheese-cloth. While beating the eggs in a saucepan, gradually add the sugar, milk, and vanilla bean. Set pan in a bath of hot water, and while beating add the gelatine and cook without boiling until it fairly . masks the spoon. Strain, remove vanilla bean, wash and wipe, dry it a little, and bury it in sugar to be used later, splitted. If vanilla bean is not used, add to strained mixture a teaspoon of vanilla extract. _ Set the custard:in a cold place to cool, and as it be- gins to thicken, set it in ice water and fold in, over and over, the cream whipped stiff-dry: Arrange in Charlotte mold lined with lady fingers, and chill. CHOCOLATE NEAPOLITAN CHARLOTTE RUSSE: Proceed as in preceding recipe, adding to sugar 2 or 3 ounces of unsweetened powdered chocolate. QUICK CHARLOTTE RUSSE: Line as above a Charlotte Russe mold with lady fingers.. Fill mold with any one of the Bavarian Cream mixtures, or use for filling an Ice Cream 4 la Chantilly. ANGEL CHARLOTTE RUSSE: Soak 1 tablespoon or 1%4 an envelope of gelatine 20 minutes in 14 cup of cold water. Boil 14 cup of water and 7 ounces of sugar in a saucepan until clear. Remove from the fire, dissolve in the gelatine, strain, and cool. - When it begins to thicken, set in ice water and beat with a wire whip down to bottom, up, and_over, until light; then add a pint of pastry cream, chilled and beaten to a stiff froth. Fold over and over, adding 34 cup of macaroon crumbs, and 14 cup each, of chopped candied fruits, marshmallows cut in pieces, and thinly chopped blanched almonds. Flavor it with a teaspoon of vanilla or 2 tablespoons of sherry. Arrange in a Charlotte mold lined with lady fingers, and chill. 498 THE FRENCH CHEF IN ORANGE CHARLOTTE RUSSE, WITHOUT CREAM: Soak 34 of an envelope of gelatine in % cup cold water 20 minutes. Boil 4% cup of water with 6 ounces of sugar, until clear. Remove from the fire, dissolve in the gelatine, strain, add 1 cup of orange juice, and 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, and cool. As soon as it begins to set, place in ice water and beat until light; ‘then fold in 3 chilled egg-whites beaten to a stiff-dry froth. Arrange in a chilled mold lined with lady fingers, and chill. ‘ :. MOCHA CHARLOTTE RUSSE: 1 tablespoon or % envelope 1 cup strong coffee of gelatine 2 egg-yolks ¥% cup cold water 1 cup chilled cream, whipped 46 cup sugar stiff-dry . Soak the gelatine in the water 20 minutes. Add the sugar to the coffee, and stir over the fire until dissolved and bubbling. Remove, dissolve in'the gelatine, add the slightly beaten egg-yolks, stirring it over a slow fire without boiling until it thickens. Strain, cool, and as soon as it appears about to thicken, set it in ice water, beat it a while, then fold in, over and over, the chilled whipped cream until it holds its shape. ‘Arrange in a mold lined with lady fingers, and chill. RICE A L’7IMPERATRICE: First Part 1 tablespoon granulated 6 egg-yolks gelatine 14% cups scalded milk ¥ cup eold water 1 teaspoon vanilla % cup sugar Soak the gelatine in the water 20 minutes, and with it, and the remaining ingredients proceed as directed at ‘‘Neapolitan Charlotte Russe,’’ and cool. ' " Second Part Seald 46 quart of milk in a double boiler. When very hot, stir in % cup of washed Carolina rice, and a “PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES | 499 cook until tender. There should be very little milk left when rice is done. Turn into a bowl and let stand until cold. Combine with the first mixture. Set in ice water, stir, and as it begins to thicken, fold in, over and over, 1% cups of chilled cream beaten to a stiff-dry froth, adding at the same time 14 cup of chopped candied fruit. Arrange in a wet Bavarian or Charlotte mold and chill 2 hours. Unmold, then spread over an Apricot or Cur- rant Jelly that has been thinned with a few drops of lemon juice. 500 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHAPTER XXIV ICE CREAMS, ICES, AND FROZEN DESSERTS How to Freeze Dresserts—Sauces ror Ick CrEamMs— Ick Creams— Decorative. Frozen DeEsserts— - Mousses anp MisceLLANEous Frozen Drsserts— Fruit or Water Ices—SHeERBETS oR SoRBETS How to Freeze Desserts Ca the ice in a box with a mallet, or pound the ice pocketed i in a strong cloth or sack. Mix ice and salt thoroughly in the proportion of a pound of salt to three or four pounds of ice. Place can containing the mixture to be frozen, in the freezing pail, cover, adjust top, turn crank to make sure that can fits socket, place a cork in the opening of the wooden pail, and pour in the broken ice. Never fill the can more than three- fourths full, as a freezing mixture increases in volume. When small quantities are to be frozen, arrange to have the ice two or three inches higher than the level of the” mixture in the can. Turn the crank slowly for the first five minutes, then gradually increase to a reasonable speed. The salted water in the wooden bucket is the freezing factor, and therefore should not be poured out during the freezing. If there is too much brine, pour out just enough to come to level of the freezing mix- ture, being careful not to let any liquor get into can. When freezing is completed, take the cork out of the bucket, and tip bucket to allow water to run out. Put the cork back, and remove the dasher; press and_ pack the frozen mixture solidly ; straighten its surface and cover, setting a cork in the opening in cover. Add more ice and pack around and on top of the frozen article. Place a cloth or a clean sack on top, and set in a cold place until needed. Molding the Frozen Mixtures: To mold frozen mix- tures, pack the frozen article solidly into an iced mold until a little more than full, so that it may be pressed down when cover is put on. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 501 Rub butter or other fat around the edge of the lid, placing a wet blank paper between the lid and contents of the mold, as every care must be taken to prevent any salt water running into the mold. To unmold, dip the mold in lukewarm water a few. " seconds, then wipe it dry, lift the cover, remove the paper, and invert on a chilled dish. Time Needed for Freezing: The time needed for freezing varies according to the quality and the con- sistency of the mixture to be frozen, whether it is made of cream, milk, or water. The thinner the mixture is the longer it requires. To save labor and ice, put the cold mixture in the refrigerator before freezing and let it stand until thoroughly chilled. Mixtures too quickly frozen are not smooth and are apt to be coarse. One quart of vanilla ice cream should be done in less than ten minutes. Water ice requires a- longer time. The finer the ice is broken, the quicker the mixture will be frozen. Sauces for Ice Creams CHOCOLATE SAUCE: Using water as the liquid, proceed: as directed at ‘‘Chocolate Sauce for Pudding.’’ WALNUT-MAPLE SAUCE: Add 1% cup of water to 24 cup of maple syrup. Boil 2 minutes, remove from fire, and add about 1% cup of chopped walnuts. ORANGE SAUCE: Use an Orange Compote as directed at that recipe. COFFEE SAUCE: - 1144 cups milk 1 tablespoon arrowroot or 1% cup ground coffee cornstarch 4% cup sugar Scald the milk with the coffee, let it steep twenty mih- utes, and strain through a cheese-cloth; mix the sugar s 502 THE FRENCH CHEF IN and arrowroot, and while stirring over the fire slowly add the re-heated coffee. Cook 2 minutes. Ice Cream ARTIFICIAL VANILLA ICE CREAM: 1 seant cup or 7 ounces sugar Tt split vanilla bean, or 1 table- 3 tablespoons sifted flour spoon vanilla 1 quart milk, scalded 2 egg-yolks Mix sugar and flour in a saucepan, adding the vanilla bean, and while stirring with a wire egg-beater, in pan set over the fire, slowly add the hot milk. Cook and stir constantly until boiling, then boil 8 minutes. Remove the pan to the back of the range. Rub two egg-yolks in a bowl, and, stirring, add a little of the hot milk mixture. Combine the two and cook without boiling, beating all the while until the eggs are set. Strain, and allow it to cool. If vanilla bean has not been used, add vanilla extract. When’ cold strain into the freezing-can, and freeze as directed above. It will improve the ice cream to add, before freezing, ¥% cup of cream, or, gently stir into the mixture when frozen to a mush oy cup of chilled cream beaten stiff-dry, ' then sweetened with about an ounce of bar sugar. Pack, cover, and let stand 2 hours before serving. PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM: Seald in a double boiler 1 pint of cream with 1 cup of sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Chill, then add a pint of cream and a tablespoon of vanilla, strain, and freeze. VANILLA ICE CREAM: Take 7 egg-yolks, and while beating in a bowl, slowly add 11% cups of sugar and-1 quart of thin cream. Cook the mixture in a double boiler, constantly stirring with a wooden spatula until the eggs are set, when it will slightly mask a spoon. Then remove, and when nearly cold strain into the freezing-can, adding 1 tablespoon of vanilla extract. Freeze as usual. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 503 ICE CREAM, CHANTILLY: Make an Artificial or a Vanilla Ice Cream (see recipes), and freeze to a mush, then with a wooden spatula gently stir in 1 cup of chilled cream whipped stiff-dry and sweetened with a heaping tablespoon of sifted bar sugar. Pack and let stand 2 hours. CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM: Melt 8 or 4 ounces of unsweetened chocolate over hot water; then add to any one of the above ice cream mix- tures before freezing. Preparation of Praline Powder and Substitute Take some ‘‘Praline’’ or ‘‘Praline Glacé,’’ and put through the nut grinder or pound to a coarse powder. (See, ‘‘Praline.’’) Added to Cream Filling for Cake or used in making Ice Creams, Mousse or Frozen Pudding, etc. A substitution for Praline Powder is occasionally made as follows: Stir over the fire 44 cup of water and 1 cup of sugar with a piece of vanilla bean added, until the-sugar is melted. Add % cup of shelled almonds with the skins left on. Gently stir and cook the sugar to a caramel or a golden-brown color, then quickly remove the bean and pour onto an oiled marble slab to cool. Detach and break it in pieces. If desired, 1 ounce of Confectioner’s Chocolate may be added, put through the nut grinder or pounded to a coarse powder. Ice Cream Pralinée: A little Praline Powder may be added to either a Vanilla-Custard, Chocolate, or Mocha Ice Cream mixture, which is usually frozen to a mush, then combined with a certain amount of whipped cream in which Praline Powder has been mixed. Pack in salt and ice two hours. CARAMEL ICE CREAM: Make a Vanilla Ice Cream as directed at recipe, except use 4 cup less sugar, and stir into the cooled mixture 4% or % cup of Caramel Syrup (see recipe). Strain into freezer. \ 504 THE FRENCH CHEF IN STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM: 1 quart cream 1¥% cups or 12 ounces sugar 1 quart strawberries 2 tablespoons lemon juice ‘Wash and hull the berries. Sprinkle over them half of the sugar and the lemon juice. Crush and chill 1 hour. Scald half of the cream and the remaining sugar in a double boiler, cook and stir until the sugar is dik- solved, cool and chill, then add the remaining cream and strain into freezer. Freeze to a mush, then add the berries and finish freezing. When serving, set on each portion a reserved chilled strawberry dusted with sugar. .- If cream is not available, freeze to a mush a mixture made as directed at “ Artificial Vanilla Ice Cream,”’ leaving out the vanilla, ‘and adding the crushed and sweetened strawberries flavored with lemon juice as above, then freezing. CANNED FRUIT ICE CREAM: When fresh fruits are not available, drain canned fruits of their syrup, sweeten the syrup with sugar as needed, cook until sugar is dissolved, and chill. Add as much cream as syrup, strain into freezing-can, and freeze to a mush; then mix in the drained fruit cut into small pieces, pack and let stand 1 hour. If desired, marinate the drained fruit in 1 or 2 table- spoons of lemon. juice. BANANA ICE CREAM: 1 quart cream 3 cups banana pulp - 1 cup sugar _ 1 teaspoon lemon ‘juice Peel the bananas and rub through a purée strainer; then chill. Cook in a double boiler half of the cream with the sugar, stir until sugar is dissolved, then remove and chill. Add remaining cream and flavoring, and strain into freezer. Freeze to a mush, then stir in the fruit pulp, and continue freezing until hard. If cream is not available, leaving out the vanilla, freeze an Artificial Vanilla Ice Cream mixture to a mush and finish as above. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 505 PISTACHIO ICE CREAM: Seald 1 pint of cream in a double boiler over the fire with 14 pound of sugar. Stir until dissolved, then remove, and chill. Add a pint of cream, a teaspoon each of vanilla and Green Coloring, and strain into freezer. Freeze, then add a cup of blanched pistachioes forced through grating mill. COFFEE ICE CREAM: 3 cups rich cream 1 teaspoon coffee extract 1 cup very strong coffee 1 cup sugar Cook, in a double boiler, 1 cup of cream with the coffee and the sugar. Remove, chill, add remaining cream and the coffee essence, and strain into freezer. Freeze as usual. ~ Frozen Puddings DIPLOMATIC PUDDING: Chill a selected mold in cracked ice. Arrange at bottom a layer of Philadelphia or Vanilla Ice Cream, then arrange over it a layer of lady fingers on which dispose a layer of candied fruits. Repeat these layers alternately, filling mold overflowing with ice cream. Closely cover and pack as usual in salt and ice 1 to 2 hours. TUTTI FRUTTI: Fill as usual an iced mold with frozen Lemon Ice, or with a Vanilla Ice Cream in which some candied fruit is mixed. Pack in salt and ice 2 hours. ~ Decorative Frozen Desserts PEACHES A LA MELBA: A few minutes before serving, pile a Vanilla Ice Cream in individual erystal or silver cups arranged in broken ice. On center of each place a whole pitted peach that has been boiled in a sugar syrup until tender. Mask the peach with a raspberry jelly beaten with a 506 THE FRENCH CHEF IN few drops of .lemon juice and thoroughly chilled, and sereen each service with the following: Rub through a fine sieve a cup of chilled crushed raspberries sweetened“ with an equal weight of pulverized sugar. GABY DESLYS: Rub some ripe strawberries through a fine sieve that will hold back the seeds, to obtain about 24 cup of pulp. Mix with an equal amount of banana pulp, also rubbed through a sieve. Boil for 5 minutes a syrup made of 34 eup of sugar and 1% cup of water, then remove and, cool. Combine the two mixtures, adding a tablespoon of lemon juice and a little carmine coloring. Freeze to a mush, then mix in 24 cup of chilled cream beaten to a stiff-dry froth. Let stand in salt and ice 1 hour, then pack in chilled bomb, and pack in salt and ice 2 hours. Unmold over a napkin and garnish with candied violets. COMTESSE MARIE: This decorative dessert is usually packed and served in small bandboxes striped with silk ribbon, or in small cases. Have ready a Philadelphia Ice Cream and a Straw- berry or Pistachio Ice Cream (see recipes). Spread at bottom of each box a layer of Philadelphia Ice Cream ¥Y inch thick. Spread over it a layer of Strawberry Ice Cream or Pistachio Ice Cream. Ornament top with Vanilla Ice Cream. A substitute for Comtesse Marie is a Mousse frozen in paper eases. The Mousse mixture is turned into the cases, and these are arranged in layers in a large pail with a water-tight cover, with parafine paper placed between the layers. Then the pan is packed in salt and ice 4 to 5 hours. At a buffet party, these are served by waiters from the pantry. Parfaits Parfaits have an egg foundation. A syrup is made of the liquid and sugar, and the eggs are added, then the * PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 507 ¥ cooled mixture is combined with whipped cream. Pack at once in mold, very full, cover with a layer of waxed paper, or a buttered paper with buttered side up, put on cover, and bury this in salt and ice—one part salt to four of ice—about 2 to 3 hours. These mixtures should be frozen just enough to have a soft center. To unmold, wipe mold, ‘dip a few seconds in tepid water, wipe quickly, then unmold. COFFEE PARFAIT: 7. ounces sugar 3 ounces ground coffee 3 egg-yolks and 4 eggs 1 pint chilled pastry cream 1% eups milk Pour milk over coffee in a small saucepan, bring to a bubble, let steep 20 minutes, and turn into a flannel bag to drip. Re-heat the coffee and dissolve in the sugar, remove from the fire and let cool; then, while beating the eggs in a small saucepan, slowly add coffee liquor. Set over a slow fire and stir constantly, without allowing it to boil, until it masks the spoon. Strain and chill. Beat the cream stiff-dry, fold it in first mixture, pack in mold, cover with a wet paper, and butter edge of mold where lid fits on, to tightly cover. Pack 214 hours in salt and ice. ° MAPLE PARFAIT: 4 eggs, or 8 egg-yolks 1 pint chilled pastry cream 1 cup maple syrup While beating the eggs in a small saucepan, slowly add the maple syrup. Set over a slow fire and cook, stirring at bottom constantly with a wooden spatula, without allowing it to get too hot,-until it masks the spoon. Remove and chill. Beat the cream to a stiff-dry froth. Combine the two mixtures, pack in mold, then in salt and ice. CHOCOLATE PARFAIT: Boil for 2 minutes, 44 cup of water, 7 ounces of sugar, 24 cups of grated chocolate, and a split vanilla bean. 508 THE FRENCH CHEF IN = Strain and cool; and while beating 6 egg-yolks or 8 . whole eggs in a saucepan, slowly add the chocolate mix- ture. Set over a, slow fire, and cook and stir without allowing it to boil, until it masks the spoon; remove and cool. Beat stiff-dry 1 pint of chilled cream, and fold it in the chilled chocolate mixture. Pack in mold, then in salt and ice 214 hours. VANILLA PARFAIT: Y% cup water 4 eggs or 8 yolks 7 ounces sugar ~ 1 pint chilled cream 1 split vanilla bean Put the water, sugar, and vanilla bean in a small: saucepan, boil 5 minutes, and with it and the remaining ingredients proceed as directed at ‘‘Maple Parfait.’’ QUICK PARFAIT: Have ready a quart of any kind of frozen ice cream. Stirin a cup of chilled cream beaten to a stiff-dry froth, and serve at once in parfait glass. Ornament top with sweetened whipped cream. Mousse and Miscellaneous Frozen Desserts Mousse is a combination of whipped créam and sweet- ened fruit pulp or some other flavored and sweetened mixtures, and usually made without eggs. Mousses are frozen without stirring, being simply packed in a mold, then in salt and ice until hard to center, as explained at ‘*Parfaits.’’ For finest texture, use one pound of salt to 4 of ice. : NOUGATINE MOUSSE: 1 pint pastry cream beaten 4 cup chopped blanched al- stiff-dry to bottom of bowl monds 1% cups sifted powdered sugar %% cup chopped pistachio nuts 1 teaspoon vanilla extract or %4cup Maraschino cherries, use the above sugar, va- , chopped nilla flavored @ 1 cup marshmallows, cut in pieces Beat the sugar into the whipped cream, beating till firm, then fold in the remaining ingredients. Pack and _ freeze in mold as directed above. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 509 FRUIT MOUSSE: To 1% cups of fine fruit pulp add %4 cup of pul- verized sugar. Stir until ‘the sugar is melted or set over a slow fire and slightly warm, avoiding heating it too Ymuch as the cooking of fruit destroys its fresh fruit flavor. Remove and chill. Strawberries-and peaches are often colored with a little carmine and flavored with a tablespoon or more of lemon juice. Green gage plums are flavored and colored with a teaspoon each’ of vanilla and green coloring. When the fruits are very juicy, soak for 20 minutes a level teaspoon of gelatine in ‘about Y, cup of the fruit juice, then set in hot water until dissolved. Strain and mix in warm fruit juice and pulp. Beat 1 pint of chilled cream to a stiff-dry froth, and fold it over and over in the chilled sweetened fruit pulp. With this; fill a melon mold to overflowing, set over top a wet blank paper, cover, rub some fat around the edge where the lid fits on, cover tightly, and pack in salt and ice for 3 hours. NESSELRODE PUDDING: Use 1 cup of drained bottled marrons or remove the shells of 34 pound of chestnuts, then turn them into enough boiling water to cover, bring quickly to a boil, simmer until tender, and drain. Immerse at once for a few seconds, in cold water, remove skins, and chop. One-third cup each of mixed candied fruits, canned drained pineapple, and Maraschino cherries, all chopped. At option, 1 ounce of grated almond paste with 2 drops bitter almonds added. Macerate the chestnuts, candied fruits and the pine- apple in a-cold place in a little Maraschino, sherry or lemon juice. Or, instead of the candied fruit, pine-apple and the Marasechino cherries, substitute 14 cup edch of seeded Sun-Maid raisins and currants. Put the picked raisins and currants in a saucepan, add a little water and sherry, then simmer them till plump and drain. Chop the raisins 4 510 THE FRENCH CHEF IN and add them to the currants and chopped Maraschino cherries. 1 pint rich milk or thin cream 1 pint pastry cream 44 cup sugar Y% cup sugar (pulverized) 4 egg-yolks If the vanilla bean -is not ¥ vanilla bean used, add before freezing Fruits prepared as above 1 teaspoon vanilla extract With the rich milk or thin cream, sugar, egg-yolks and vanilla bean added, make a custard. When cooled ’ strain into freezer can, remove bean, and freeze to the consistency of mush. Remove the dasher, stir in the chopped prepared fruits, then fold in the pastry cream, whipped stiff, and sweetened with second sugar. Pack in mold as for Parfait and bury in ice and salt for nearly 1144 hours. This should be frozen hard, but still be a little soft in center. Just 2 minutes before serving, unmold, same as Parfait, onto a cold glass serving dish, then ornament with whipped cream, Marron-Glacé and candied cherries. ; MADELEINE PUDDING: ‘To a Vanilla Philadelphia Ice Cream add 1 cup of pineapple, cut into dice, that has been macerated in 2 or 8 tablespoons of Maraschino to prevent the fruit. freezing. Ornament bottom of a mold with candied pine- apple, fill mold as usual with the ice cream, cover and pack in salt and ice 1 hour or longer. PLOMBIERE: Pack a bomb glacé in salt and ice. Remove the lid, and pack in an Ice Cream Pralinée in which has been mixed some candied fruit cut into dice. STRAWBERRY PLOMBIERE: Pick, wash, and thoroughly drain some sound ripe strawberries, then rub them through a fine sieve that will hold-back the seeds. There should be 2 cups of pulp. Boil 1 cup of water and 11% cups of sugar until clear, PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES O11 and chill. Combine with first mixture and freeze to a mush, then gently mix in % eup of chilled cream beaten to a stiff-dry froth, and 1% cup of diced candied fruit that has been macerated awhile in 2 tablespoons of Kirsch or lemon juice. Pack, and let stand 2 hours in salt and ice. THE MERRY WIDOW: In a chilled glass set in salted broken ice, pile a helping of Vanilla Ice Cream. Garnish with fresh strawberries around the edge of glass at base of cream. Dredge over ice cream some chopped nuts, and pour over _ the whole 2 tablespoons of Lemon or Brandy Sauce. _ BOMB GLACE: Chill a bomb glacé mold in salt and ice. Remove the lid and spread over the sides a layer of Strawberry or Raspberry Sherbet. Fill center with a Vanilla Ice Cream, or with a whipped cream, sweetened and flavored. Cover top of ice cream with a little sherbet, filling to overflowing. Set a wet paper on top, press down the cover, then grease edge of mold where lid fits on, and pack in salt and ice 2 hours. COUPE ST. JACQUES: Freeze a Lemon Ice. Arrange on this packed ice some strawberries, raspberries, or peaches cut into dice, or some grated pineapple. When ready to serve, mix the fruit into the Lemon Ice. Serve in chilled glasses or silver cups, and pour over each 2 tablespoons of any one of the following: Madeira, Champagne, or rum. Gar- nish base with Candied Violet. BERRY COUPE: Carefully mix in a bowl some sound ripe strawberries or raspberries sweetened as needed with sifted pulverized sugar, pouring over a teaspoon of lemon juice or Mara- schino, and let stand awhile in a cold place. Fill some chilled cryStal glasses half-full with a Vanilla Ice Cream ; 512 THE FRENCH CHEF IN pour over a little liquor in bowl, cover with more ice cream, and garnish around and over top with berries. Fruit or Water Ices Fruit ices are frozen mixtures made of water, sugar, and fruit juice and pulp. These ices are best when the fruit is sweetened with a cold sugar syrup that should register thirty degrees on a Beaumé hydrometer, and after this syrup is combined with the fruit juice and pulp it should register eighteen to twenty degrees. If it registers more, thin it down as needed, with filtered water. Lacking the hydrometer, sweeten to suit the taste. ' Water ice may be frozen in any open kettle packed in salt and ice, stirring witha wooden spatula, covering, and repeating the stirring every five minutes till frozen. Or, freeze as for ice cream; these mixtures requiring, however, a longer time for freezing than ice cream. Turn occasionally for a few minutes, then allow mixture to rest_awhile, then repeat turning and resting until the mixture is thoroughly frozen, when it looks like a hard, wet snow. When frozen remove the dasher, scrape the side of the freezer, pack, and cover with the lid, closing hole in-center of lid with a cork. Remove the cork from the wooden bucket to let brine run out, replace cork in bucket, cover -with a clean sack, and let stand 2 or 3 hours. : When a thicker mixture is desired, add to each quart of prepared ice mixture, before freezing, a teaspoon of granulated gelatine that has been soaked 20 minutes in 2 tablespoons of cold water and then dissolved in the hot syrup. When Fruit and Water Ices are often called for, it is best to keep on hand, sealed, a bottle of 30° Sugar Syrup, made as follows: 30° Sugar Syrup Put 214 cups of water in a kettle over the fire. Turn onto center 114 pounds of granulated sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, and boil 15 minutes. - PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 513 LEMON ICE: 4 cups filtered water % cup lemon juice 1 pound sugar, liberal weight. A lemon rind Put the water in a saucepan over the fire, turn onto center the sugar, add the lemon-rind, stir until sugar is dissolved, and boil 10 minutes. When partly cold, add the lemon juice, cool it, and strain into freezer. Freeze as directed above. ORANGE ICE: ; _ 1 quart filtered water Juice of. 2 medium-sized lemons 1 pound sugar Grated rind of 3 oranges 1 pint orange juice Make a syrup with water and sugar, boil 5 minutes, adding grated rind, and let stand until cool. Add orange and lemon juice, strain through a cheese-cloth into a- freezer, and freeze and pack as at water ice. If the oranges are sour, leave out-the lemon. STRAWBERRY ICE: 1 quart filtered water 2% cups strawberry juice and 1 pound sugar pulp, rubbed through a 1 tablespoon lemon juice very. fine sieve Make a syrup with water and sugar. Boil 5 minutes and chill. Add the strawberries and lemon juice, pour into freezer, freeze, and pack in salt and ice as directed at Water Ice. PEACH ICE: Pit and ‘peel some ripe peaches. Rub these through a fine sieve to obtain 3 cups of pulp-juice. With 3 cups of water and 15 ounces of sugar, or nearly 2 cups, make a syrup, boil 10 minutes, and chill. Add 3 tablespoons of lemon juice; the fruit ‘pulp and juice, and a teaspoon of carmine coloring. Strain into freezer. Freeze and pack as directed at ‘‘Water Ice.’ If desired, add to the boiling syrup 2 kernels from broken peach stones. 17 514 THE FRENCH CHEF IN APPLE ICE: Peel, quarter, core, and slice thinly, enough good tart apples to obtain a pound. Add 2 cups of boiling water, and boil until tender. Rub through a purée ‘strainer, add 1 cup of sugar and 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, re-heat until the sugar is melted, remove, and chill. Freeze and pack as directed at Fruit or Water Ice. Occasionally served in glass with roast duck or pork. Sherbets or Sorbets Sherbets or Sorbets are frozen water ices in which egewhites, beaten stiff-dry, are gently mixed, then al- lowed to stand at least 2 hours packed as usual in salt and ice before serving. To each gallon of frozen water ice add 2 or 3 egg-whites beaten stiff-dry and sweetened with'a little sugar. Sherbets or Sorbets are often served before the roast or after the game. 2 PUNCH A LA ROMAINE: 2 oranges, juice only 1 quart 30° Sugar Syrup 2 lemons, juice only 1¥% cups strong tea infusion 4% orange, rind only 3 egg-whites, beaten stiff-dry 1% lemon, rind only 1 cup Jamaica rum Add the fruit juice and rind to the hot syrup and let stand until cooled. Add the tea, then strain into freezer, pack in salt and ice, and freeze as Water Ice. Then gently stir in the egg-whites, and let stand 1 hour. Before serving add the rum. CAFE GLACE: Make a quart of good coffee as strong as liked. Sweeten it to the taste with sugar. This usually registers 10° on a Beaume Hydrometer. Freeze and pack as di- rected at ‘‘Water Ice.’’ Serve in chilled glass. \ 3 7 * PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 515 . CHAPTER XXV PASTRY GENERAL RuLES aBout Pastry anp Pie’ DovagH — How to Wash aNnD PREPARE BuTTeR FoR USE IN Pastry —How to Make Pie anp HInts apout Pre Pastry — Preparation oF Mince MzEat General Rules about Pastry and Pie Dough He cardinal principles of making good pastry, are, use good pastry flour, good shortening, and iced water; work with chilled tools in a cold place, and -handle the dough lightly as little as needed and as quickly as possible. The use of a, rolling-pin made of glass which edn be filled with cracked ice is recommended, also a marble slab kept in a cold place. Besides its usefulness in making pastry, the slab may also be used to cool hot mixtures just removed from the fire. By following the rules and keeping to the given proportions, one will soon master the art of making pastry that will be light, flaky, and tender. The process of making good pie dough must be thoroughly understood. The quality of pastry is de- termined by the quality of the shortening and the amount used to a given proportion of flour. Plain pie dough requires from one-third to one-half cup of shortening to each cup of sifted flour, while puff paste requires an equal amount of both flour and shortening. Pastry crusts made with butter have a much finer flavor than those made with lard, but are mot so tender. Shortening makes pastry crisp, tender, and flaky. Shortening in pastry melts when set in the hot oven and acts as a wet- ‘ting medium, which renders the crust tender, while water renders the crust tough; therefore, for good pastry, the shortening rather than the liquid should moisten the - flour. The hands should never touch the dough while work- ing it, as the warmth of the hands will be communicated a 516 THE FRENCH CHEF IN to the dough. Work the dough in a cold place, on a- marble slab. In using the rolling pin, never press with any force on the dough, or the air cells in the dough will be driven out. Fold the rolled-out dough by a swift stroke in two then in four, quickly sealing the edges together by pressing lightly with the pin; then press or pat the different layers in the same manuer, as these will not cling or adhere together if the dough is properly chilled. Repeat the process over and over, thus encasing as much air as possible in the dough to expand while baking. The hot oven should have the heat coming from below. This will produce a light, flaky, digestible article. If the pastry is baked in a too-slow oven, it will be greasy, tough and indigestible. How to Wash and Prepare Butter for Use in Pastry The butter used to make. pastry should always be washed and especially prepared. Wash.the hands. Wash the butter in cold water, while working it with the tips of the fingers to thoroughly remove the salt and butter- milk it holds. Then place it awhile in iced water to harden; drain, wipe, then. arrange in a clean cloth, and pat and work until the moisture is thoroughly re- moved and it has become smooth, supple, and flexible. Shape into a flat rectangular brick. Wrap brick in a napkin and set it on a dish over ice about 10 minutes or until it hardens a little, when it is ready to use. PUFF PASTE: Wash and prepare a pound of butter as directed above, and work in a cold place. Sift on a marble slab a pound of pastry flour with a teaspoon of salt. Reserve a very little of the flour for dusting the marble when rolling the dough. Make a depression in the flour in which pour half a cup of iced water, which mix with a little more than half of the flour to obtain a dough ball of some firmness but not hard. Lift out the ball; then add gradually to the remaining flour while mixing it, not more but rather less than half a cup of iced water. The exact amount PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES. 517 - carinot be given, as different flours absorb different amounts of liquid; simply use just enough water to obtain a rather soft, stiff ball. Gather the crumbs and combine the two balls. Knead this for about 5 minutes or until smooth, working and kneading as when making bread dough smooth. Shape it as a flat, rectangular brick, wrap in a clean cloth and set on a chilled dish over the ice about 15 minutes. , Slightly dust the marble with flour. Toss the dough and roll it into a rectangular sheet, and in center place the brick of supple butter, the longer side of the brick parallel with the longer side of the dough. Fold the dough over the butter, then fold the ends, thoroughly encasing butter in paste, taking care to enclose as much air as possible by. folding with a quick stroke. With the rolling pin, press the overlapping ends quickly and lightly, sealing them together and leaving no open thin space to let air or butter escape while rolling. pastry. ’ Always roll lightly and evenly, keeping, at the same time, the corners of the sheet of dough as square as possible. Turn the folded side of the dough downwards, then using ‘rolling pin lightly, roll it out into a rectangle, oc- - easionally lightly patting and turning the paste around in order that it may expand over the surface of the marble. . Then proceed to give six turns as follows: Beginning at a narrow end, fold a third of-the dough over to center of the other two-thirds, then fold the other end over onto this, thus obtaining three even layers. Quickly and lightly pat the ends with the rolling pin, roll out again into a rectangle, fold in three ‘layers and pat as before. This makes two turns. Then arrange dough in a doubled napkin and set it on a chilled dish, over ice for, 30 minutes; in very hot weather set over it a pudding-pan holding cracked ice. Give it two more turns as above by rolling it out into a rectangle, folding in three even layers, rolling it out again, and as before folding in three even layers. Place it in a doubled napkin to chill 20 minutes over ice; then repeat the same process again, and chill another 20 minutes. Roll 518 THE FRENCH CHEF IN out the paste to the desired thickness, cut it into the desired shape, then chill 20 minutes, and bake. If at any time while rolling out the pastry it shows ‘signs of softening, set it on the ice at once; or if the . butter begins to run out, fold at once, wrap in a cloth, and set it over ice as above for 30 minutes. The chilled pastry should never be allowed to come in contact with the ice. Baking of Puff Paste: After the pastry has been chilled for 20 minutes, arrange it in a baking-pan, and set it in a hot oven that has the greatest heat coming from- below, so that the pastry may rise before it browns. The oven should be heated and regulated before the pastry is put in. Always select the place in the oven where the baking is most uniform, avoiding the scorching spot of the oven, and turn the pan around as often as needed so that the pastry may rise and brown evenly. While the pastry is rising, it is often necessary to decrease the heat in oven, by lowering the gas flame, or, if a coal range is used, by opening check and lifting the cover. ~Do not open the oven after the pastry is in, for at least 5 minutes. Occasionally, also, it is necessary to. cover the baking pastry with an oiled paper so that it may not brown too quickly. PATTY SHELLS OR PATTIES: On a marble slab, roll out some chilled puff paste 14 inch thick. Cut it into circular shapes with a fluted. cutter of 2% inches diameter, first dipping in flour. Then, using a smaller, plain, circular cutter of about 14% inches diameter, cut a hole in centér of half of the circles, remove center pieces, and arrange them in the baking-pan. These are baked separately, to use as covers. : , Wet the remaining whole circles all. around, near border, and on each lay a ring of paste. Chill 20 min- utes. Brush the top with a beaten egg, leaving the edge and side untouched, then bake as directed above, in a hot oven 20 to 25 minutes. Or, roll the puff paste 14 inch thick, cut it into circles 7 PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 519 as above, then, using a smaller cutter 1 1/5 inches in diameter, cut nearly half-way through the paste. Chill 30 minutes, brush the top only with beaten egg as above, and bake in a hot oven 25 to 30 minutes. When done ° hit up the center circles, and reserve these browned to use as covers; then remove the imperfectly cooked paste inside. Usually the patties are made before they are needed, and are re-heated in a moderate oven before filling. VOL-AU-VENT: ‘ Roll out some chilled puff paste 4% inch thick. Mark and cut out a circle or oval of desired size, and moisten top surface near edge; on this circle lay a rim of puff paste 24 inch thick and about 1%4 inches wide. Chill 30 minutes, brush top of rim with a beaten egg, and bake in a hot oven 40 to 45 minutes as directed at ‘‘ Baking of Puff Paste.’’ It is desirable to cover with an oiled paper for the first 25 minutes of cooking or until it has risen to its full height. ' To make cover, roll out some puff paste 1/5 inch thick, and mark and cut out a circle or oval that will fit as a cover. Arrange in baking pan, chill 20 minutes, wash the top with a beaten egg, and bake in hot oven 20 min- utes or until done. — These Vol au Vents are filled with a Financiére Stew Garnishing or with any ‘‘Filling for Patty Shells.’’ Ar- range the pastry cover over it, re-heat a minute in the oven, and serve hot. : PETITS FEUILLETES, OR LITTLE PUFFS: Take trimmings of puff paste and roll them out into a sheet of pastry about 1 inch thick, cut into lozenges or hearts, arrange on a baking-pan, chill 20 minutes, then brush lightly with a beaten egg without touching the side, and dust lightly with salt. Bake in hot oven nearly 20 minutes. ~~ 520 THE FRENCH CHEF IN LINING PASTE, I (Dressing Paste for Hot Meat Patés): . Sift 1 pound of flour with 1 teaspoon of salt; make in center a depression in which put 3 egg-yolks, 6 ounces of creamed butter, and about 24 cup cold water. Using cold water, work and knead all together to obtain a smooth dough of some firmness but not hard. Cover and allow it to rest at least 2 hours. LINING PASTE, II, OR PATE BRISEE (For Cold Patés, Flans, Tarts, etc.): 5 1 pound sifted flour 5 seant ounces of butter 1 teaspoon salt Cold water as needed 1 egg-yolk and 2 whole eggs Proceed as in recipe above. If this paste is to be used to make tarts, add a teaspoon of sugar. TART AND TARTLET PASTRY: To make Tart or Tartlet crust use a paste, made as directed in recipe above. For a richer article use this ' paste as an under crust, then use rich pastry for band and cover crust. (See recipes, ‘‘Tart Bands’’ and “*Covered Tarts.’’) ‘ TART BANDS: Roll out some Lining Paste II to 14 of an inch thick. Mark and cut a circle 6 or 8 inches in diameter, and moisten around the border. Lay and arrange on circle a band of puff paste 1144 inches wide and 1% inch thick. Prick the bottom in several places with a carving fork, and chill. Brush the top of the rim with a beaten egg with- out touching the side, and bake in a hot oven 30 minutes as directed at ‘‘Baked Puff Paste.’’ When eold, fill. with any one of the Cream Fillings for Cake, or fill with jam, then ornament with whipped cream. COVERED TARTS: Put a tart ring of the desired size in a baking-pan, dust it lightly with flour, lay on it a sheet of Lining ee PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 521 Paste II, or of plain pie paste 1% inch thick, over-running the edge. Lift it so it may fit into ring and pan, brush bottom with a little egg-white, fill center with the ma- terial to be used, cut the paste all around ring at about Y inch from ring, fold edge over the tart filling, then moisten top of paste and lay on it a circle of Puff Paste, folding in the end of the circle overlapping the under crust, between crust and tin. Ornament top with figures stamped out of thinly rolled Puff Paste, then moisten edge adhering to tart cover. Make a fancy incision in center of cover for evaporation, wash with a beaten egg, and bake in a hot oven 30 minutes. How to Make Pie and Hints about Pie Pastry Care. must be taken when adding the iced water to the flour-never to use more water than necessary to hold together flour and shortening; the water, therefore, should be added slowly while stirring the mixture with a table knife: Pastry doughs are usually made the day before used, ~ and are as good the third and fourth days as the second. When pastry paste is not used the same day as made, wrap it in a cloth or simply place ‘it in a can, tightly covered, and keep in a cold, dry place. Butter used to make Pie Paste should be washed and prepared as .di- rected at ‘‘How to Wash and Prepare Butter for Use in Pastry,’’ and if the principles previously set forth under ‘‘General Rules about Pastry and Pie Dough”’ arg studied and followed, you will not fail to obtain a good pie. To sum up these rules: (1) So far as possible have all ingredients chilled. (2). Work quickly and lightly in a cold place. (3) Have oven hot for about 12 minutes in order that crust may set quickly, and thus prevent absorbing moisture from the filling; then reduce heat in oven. (4) Pie-tins lined with pie paste rich in shortening ~ are not greased, and the use of a perforated tin is rec- ommended. 522 THE FRENCH CHEF IN (5) To line the tin with crust, roll out the pastry Yg of an inch thick, lay a sheet of paste on the tin, allow it to overrun edge of tin, stretching it, so it may shrink, before lightly pressing it into tin. - If the pie is-only to have one crust, cut the paste with the scissors all round at about one-fourth the way from edge of tin, in order to arrange a high twisted border. i Prick the béttom with a fork and fill the crust. Brush border with a little milk if a brown border is desired. To bake single crust pastry shell, line the tin with , pastry as above, prick the bottom in several places with a carving fork, and put in an oiled paper holding beans or cornmeal. Or, invert a deep pie-tin, cover it with a sheet of pastry -14 inch thick, making with the edge a deep border, and prick top with a fork. Whichever method is followed, bake in a hot oven nearly 14 minutes, watching the baking carefully. Remove the paper and beans, or carefully invert the shell, as the case may require. When cold, fill with the desired mixture. A custard mixture may be poured in these shells, then baked in a slow oven until firm on top center. When making fruit pie with fresh fruit that is juicy, brush the under-crust with a little egg-white, or sprinkle over the uncooked under-crust some sifted bread crumbs, arrange in the fruit filling, moisten the edge of under- crust, lay on top a sheet of pastry Ye inch thick, stretch it to allow for shrinkage, overrunning the edge, press the edge lightly together, and with scissors cut off edge all around the tin, making in center a fancy incision for evaporation. If a brown crust is desired, brush it with _a little milk and sugar or with a beaten egg. Or, cover the pie as directed at ‘‘Covered Tart.’’ Bake in hot oven 30 to 35 minutes. ‘ PLAIN PIE PASTE: 14% cups flour % cup shortening ¥% teaspoon salt Ya cup iced water Sift the flour and salt in a chilled bowl, reserving a little flour for dusting. Using a knife, thoroughly chop the shortening into the flour, then, stirring it with a PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 523 Silver knife, slowly add the water, using jyst enough water to hold the shortening and erumbs together. Toss it onto a board or marble slab, sparingly dusted with flour. Gathering all the crumbs, lightly pat and roll out to about ¥ inch thickness. Fold into three layers as directed at ‘‘Puff Paste.’’ Then, turning it half-way round, lightly pat and roll out again-and fold as before. Chill as directed at ‘‘ How to Make Pie,’’ ete. / FLAKY PIE PASTE: 11% eups sifted pastry flour 3 ounces supple chilled butter 1% teaspoon salt 1% cup ice water 3 ounces or % cup good lard Sift the flour and salt in a chilled bowl. Add the chilled lard and cut it in with knife, then, constantly stirring with a silver knife, slowly add the water, using just enough liquid to hold the erumbs together. Toss it onto a board or marble slab, sparingly dusted with flour. Lightly pat it and shape as a flat rectangular brick, roll it out 14 inch thick, let it rest a few minutes, then roll it out into a rectangle, and arrange in middle the chilled sheet of butter, first folding the sides over the butter, and then the ends, taking care to enclose as much air as possible. Lightly press the overlapping ends with - the rolling-pin, leaving no thin open space. Roll it out thin, as before, into a long rectangle, fold it in three even layers, then fold across, pat, and repeat the same process. When chilled, it. is ready to use. APPLE PIE: . Dust a pie-tin with flour, then line it with a sheet of pie paste 1% inch thick. Fill inside with circular rows-of overlapping thin slices of apples, working them towards the center until bottom is covered with a thick layer of apples.. Arrange more sliced apples on top. Dredge over top about 3 ounces of sugar mixed with 14 teaspoon of cinnamon, or, using only sugar, dredge over a little lemon juice and grated lemon rind. Dredge over top a few bits of fine butter, moisten the border of the 524 THE FRENCH CHEF IN paste, cover with pastry, make an incision in center for. evaporation, and bake in hot oven 35 to 40 minutes. APPLE TART, I: Line a flour-dusted pie-tin with pastry, or with Lining Paste II, in the latter case arranging around border a rim of Puff Paste. Fill inside with cireular rows of overlapping thin slices of apples, working them towards the center to form a thick layer. Dredge over with 3 ounces of sugar mixed with a little cinnamon, and dot top with small bits of butter. Bake 35 minutes in a hot oven. Serve cold or warm. APPLE TART, II: Proceed as directed at ‘‘Apple Tart I,’’ leaving out the cinnamon and butter. Dredge over top only 1 ounce of sugar, and spread over the apples 24 of a tumbler of quince or currant jelly. Bake until apples are tender and erust done. ENGLISH APPLE TART: Fill an oval glass oven gratin dish with good tart apples, peeled, quartered, cored, and thinly sliced, pack- ing them solidly. For a pint of apples add about 3 ounces of sugar, half a cup of water, and a little juice and grated rind of lemon. Roll out some pastry 14 inch thick. Place over it the dish with the apples, and cut the paste all around the dish so top crust will fit; then cut all around the first cut so as to obtain a band of pastry 14 inch wide. Remove the dish with apples, arrange the band of pastry on the moistened edge. of dish, pressing it in two places. Moisten the band, cover with pastry, and make an incision in center. Flour the thumb of the left hand, press it on the edge of the pie, and with a knife in the right hand, make an incision on the right of the pressing thumb. Repeat, pressing and cutting at one-inch intervals all around the edge. Brush the cover with a beaten egg, dust with a little sugar, and bake in a hot oven about 40 minutes. Serve warm with cream. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 525 ENGLISH RHUBARB TART: Skin a good pound of rhubarb and cut into pieces 1% inches in length. Turn into boiling water, to cover, and let stand without boiling 5 minutes. *Carefully turn on a strainer, and thoroughly drain. Gently toss into some sugar, shaking it so as to coat the rhubarb, and arrange in a buttered oval glass gratin dish. Add a tablespoon of water. Cover with pastry as directed at ‘‘English Apple Pie,’’ and bake 35 minutes in a hot oven. APPLE CUSTARD TART: Using only 1 ounce of sugar and leaving out the cinnamon, bake an Apple Tart I for 20 minutes. Have ready a custard mixture made with 2 egg-yolks, 1 whole’ egg, 14 cup of sugar, 1 teaspoon of vanilla, and 1% cups -of milk, Strain over the apples, then finish baking in a slow, moderate oven until the custard is firm. Serve cold. . CREAM PIE: Mix 5 ounces of sugar with 2 tablespoons of pastry flour, and while stirring it, add slowly % pint of scalded- milk. Beat in a bowl 2 egg-yolks and 1 whole egg; continue beating while slowly adding the first mix- ture and a teaspoon of vanilla. Pour it in a crust that has been baked 15 minutes in a hot oven, then ‘finish bak- ing in a moderate oven until firm. CHOCOLATE CREAM PIE: . Same as preceding, only mix with the sugar and flour 144 cup of unsweetened powdered chocolate. LEMON APPLE PIE: Peel and core a large cooking apple, and chop fine. Mix it with the grated rind and juice of a lemon, 2 beaten pullet eggs, 1 generous cup of sugar, 3/5 cup of rolled crackers and a tablespoon of hot melted butter. Bake between two crusts. | ® 526 THE FRENCH CHEF IN LEMON PIE, I: 1 cup granulated sugar 2 lemons, juice and grated rind 3 level tablespoons cornstarch 1 tablespoon melted butter 4 level tablespoons flour 3 egg-whites, beaten stiff-dry 1% cups boiling water 3 heaping tablespoon sifted 3 egg-yolks, slightly beaten powdered sugar Put into a small saucepan the granulated sugar, cornstarch, and flour. Mix well, and, while stirring, add the boiling water very slowly. Cook and stir constantly with a wooden spoon until boiling, then place the sauce- pan in a bath of hot water, and beat in the egg-yolks; cook and beat until the eggs are set, without boiling. Remove from the fire, beat in the lemon juice and butter, and, when partly cool, turn the mixture into a baked crust, straighten surface, and arrange and ornament top with a meringue paste made of the egg-whites and pow- dered sugar. Dredge over some sugar and bake in a slack oven until delicately amber-colored. LEMON PIE, II: - Grate enough stale bread to obtain a scant cup of crumbs. Pour over about 3 tablespoons of melted butter, and, stirring, add a cup of boiling water. Beat 3 egg- yolks until creamy and thick. Continue to: beat while adding slowly 1 cup of sugar and the grated rind and juice of 2 lemons. Combine the two mixtures and pour in a crust that has been baking 15 minutes, and finish baking in a moderate oven until fairly firm. Remove, partly cool, and cover with a meringue made as in pre- ceding recipe. CRANBERRY PIE: Arrange in a tin, lined with pie paste, about 2 cups of Cranberry Jelly. Arrange strips of paste across the top, put a rim over the border, and bake. PUMPKIN PIE: Put through a colander enough steamed or baked pumpkin to obtain about 144 'cups of pulp. Beat in a bowl 1 egg-yolk and 1 whole egg. Add the pumpkin, PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 527 2 ounces of brown sugar, 1 tablespoon of melted butter, 1 teaspoon of salt, and a dash each, of, cinnamon and ginger, a few grains of nutmeg, and ¥ cup of milk. Mix well and bake in one crust. Preparation of Mince Meat MINCE MEAT, I: 2% pounds boiled or roasted lean beef thinly chopped, skin and _ gristle removed 2% cups suet, thinly chopped, skin and gristle removed. bs 4 pounds of apples, peeled, cored, quartered, and thinly chopped 1%, cups sugar 1% cups molasses 1% pounds seeded raisins 1% pounds Sun Maid Malaga raisins 34 cup citron, thinly shredded 2% cups boiled cider ¥Y% teaspoon each, cloves and nutmeg 1 teaspoon allspice 1 tablespoon each, cinnamon and salt 2 oranges, juice and grated rind 2 lemons, juice and grated rind 3% tumbler of crab-apple, quince, or currant jelly 1 teaspoon lemon extract, or orange blossom water, or both Place a large saucepan over a moderate fire, and in it put the suet, meat, apples, molasses, sugar, citron, raisins, cider, and salt. Cook, occasionally stirring with a- wooden spoon, until apples are soft, then add the remain- “ing ingredients, pack in a jar, and seal. If more liquid is needed, add the stock in which the meat has been cooked. The top crust of a mince pie should always be nicely glazed, therefore brush it with a beaten egg and dredge with a little sugar. . MINCE MEAT, IL: : % pound boiled or roasted lean beef, thinly chopped, skin and gristle removed ¥% pound suet, chopped, skin removed % pound currants ¥% pound seeded raisins, chopped | 3 tart apples peeled, cored, and chopped 1‘ eup brown sugar * 5 4 ounces citron, shredded and chopped f 528 THE FRENCH CHEF IN ~ 2 tablespoons lemon and orange rind, shredded, chopped, and boiled until tender 1 tablespoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon each, mace and salt ¥% teaspoon each, nutmeg and cloves 1% pints sweet cider 1 cup brandy or port wine Mix all together and let stand in an earthen crock, covered, in a cold, dry place for 2 weeks. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 529 CHAPTER XXVI CAKES GENERAL INstrucTIONS—LigHTENING FLouR MIxTURES —Baxkine Powper SUBSTITUTES AND BAKING SoDA Mixtures—CreAM as A SUBSTITUTE FoR BUTTER— - How: tro Fuavor with Economy—To PREPARE THE Pan For CakeE—To Beat EoG-wHITEes To A STIFF- pRY Frora—Mrxing SPoncGe AND Savoy CaKE— Mixing Burter CakE—Oven Heat—BakING THE CakE— CAKE REcIPES , General Instructions ‘Tes texture of good cake is light, soft, and fine- grained, and the cakes are always of uniform . height -and color. On account of the high price of materials entering into cake making, the greatest care should be taken both in the method of preparation and in the selection of ingredients used, which should always be the best. It is necessary to be scrupulously exact when measuring and to mix exactly as directed, com- bining the materials properly, and always mixing two ingredients thoroughly before adding a third one. Both the pans used must be properly prepared, and the heat in the oven regulated before- beginning to. mix the cake batter, so that the cake mixture may be placed in the oven as soon as in the pan. Lastly, the cake must be watched carefully during the baking. All measurements are level, unless otherwise stated. _ Cakes may be divided into four classes: (1) Batter cake made with spatula; these include: Sponge and Savoy cake types, also butter batter cake. ~ (2) Cake made with raised dough, such as Brioche, Baba, ete. (3) Cake made with rolled-stiff paste, such as Puff, Lining or Cookie Paste, and cakes such as Pithivier, Flan-Meringué and cookies. : 5380 THE FRENCH CHEF IN (4) Cake made with mortar almond or hazelnut paste, such as Macaroon, Massepain, ete. Use the finest granulated or pulverized sugar, the best pastry flour, fresh eggs, choice almonds, ete. Pastry, flour should always be used to make cake; ‘put, if bread flour only is available, from each cup of sifted flour take out 14% level tablespoons. Always sift the flour before measuring it; in this way, an even, exact measure will result. When salt, baking powder, cream tartar, or bak- ing soda are used, ‘they are added to the measur ed sifted flour and re-sifted together several times before being added to the batter. Beating the eggs and the butter renders the cake light, and beating the flour into the batter gives a fine grain to the cake; but in no case beat any mixture to which beaten stiff- dry egg-whites have been added. Sponge Cake batter mixtures are usually of a con- sistency that will enable them to be easily spread with a spatula; but Butter Cake batter should always be thicker, as the heated shortening, melting while baking, acts as a moisture. Butter produces the best cake; but on account of its high price, good lard, crisco, ete., are often substituted for it in highly spiced cake, or used half and half with real butter. Milk makes cake moist; water renders it tender; and cornstarch and pulverized sugar give dry cake, Lightening Flour Mixtures Baking Powder Substitutes and Baking Soda Mixtures Flour mixtures are rendered light by introducing gas or air cells. Gas is introduced by means of yeast, baking powder, or baking powder substitutes. Air cells are introduced by beating the butter or the eggs, or both, and also by beating mixture. In baking, both gas and air cells are expanded by the heat and are retained in eggless mixtures by the gluten of the flour; in mixtures where eggs are used, the gas and air cells are retained by both the gluten of the flour and of the eggs. Baking powder substitutes are sour milk or cream used with baking soda. For each cup of sour milk or PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 5381 cream use 14 teaspoon of baking soda, or, by using only 144 teaspoon of baking soda to neutralize the acidity baking powder may be used as required. For best results, it is very important to sift the flour several times with the baking powder and baking soda before mixing. All the mixtures lightened by one or both of these leavening agents should be baked as soon as mixed in order to retain the gases, as otherwise they will escape. The old-fashioned way of dissolving the baking soda in water before putting it in the mixture is not desirable, because the freed gas escapes before the mixing is thor- oughly done. Use a teaspoon of baking soda to each cup of molasses. Cream as a Substitute for Butter “ Both sweet or sour cream may be used in cake making, also to make quick bread in place of more or less butter. Ordinary cream holds 18% fat. One cup of table cream holds about 3 tablespoons of fat. The same cup of cream holds 3 tablespoons less liquid than milk; hence, when substituting cream for milk in a recipe, use a little more cream than the amount of milk called for and less butter in proportion to the amount of cream used. How to Flavor with Economy Vanilla Flavoring: The French pastry cook uses. the vanilla bean, which gives the best and most eco- nomical results. As these beans are kept buried in sugar in a closely sealed jar or can, the sugar absorbs much of the vanilla flavor and may be used to make desserts which call for vanilla flavoring, especially those where the addition of liquid is not desirable, such as meringue, macaroons, ete. When a stronger flavor is desired, cut the vanilla bean in pieces, pound to a fine paste in a mortar, continue pounding, adding the sugar gradually, then rub through a fine sieve. In mixtures in which liquid is used, infuse half a vanilla bean in liquid until liquid is sufficiently flavored, remove bean, wipe and dry a few minutes in the warmer, then bury it again, in sugar, to be used later on, split. 2 - 682 . THE FRENCH CHEF IN The caramel’s delectable flavor is greatly improved by making a Caramel Syrup as directed at that recipe, adding half a vanilla bean, and reserving closely sealed in jar. Orange and Lemon Flavoring: The grated rinds_ of both orange and lemon, which contain a delicious flavoring oil, are desirable for flavoring cake. ‘In con- trast to the flavoring extracts, they are not volatile, and cakes baked with grated rind retain all the flavor, while cake flavored with the very volatile extract has nearly all the flavoring evaporated before the cake is baked. When a cake is to be filled or spread with a filling or frosting, it need not be flavored, as by adding the flavoring to the icing or filling before spreading on cake, the cake will absorb and assimilate sufficient flavoring. Thin strips of lemon of orange rind allowed to steep in a hot sugar syrup or sweet sauce for pudding impart a nice flavoring; or add to syrup a sugar-cube rubbed on rind. It is economy to dry the surplus rinds. Pound in a mortar to a fine powder, continuing pounding while adding a little sugar, then rub through a sieve. An orange leaf boiled in a liquid that is being used gives a flavor nearly similar to orange blossom water. Noyeau Flavoring: A peach leaf, or the crushed kernels of pitted fruits, such as apricots, plums, etc., give a Noyeau Flavoring when they are boiled in hquid. Fruit Juices may be used as a flavoring, and besides are nice for coloring. To Prepare-the Pan for Cake To grease a pan for baking cake, brush the cold pan evenly with cooking oil, or slightly heat the pan and brush the bottom and side evenly and thinly with either lard, crisco, clarified butter, or dripping. To line the pan with blank paper, grease pan as above, cover bottom and side with blank paper, letting the edge run over side of pan, then oil or grease the paper. To prepare flat pans for smaller cake, rub pan PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 533 with a dry cloth, then brush it lightly and evenly thin with cooking oil and wipe with a clean cloth to polish. It is easier to remove the cake if the greased pan is dusted with flour. To Beat Egg-whites to a Stiff-dry Froth Carefully separate the yolks and whites in separate chilled bowls, taking care not to let any yolk drop into the white, and vice versa. Place the bowl holding the white in a cold place until needed. To beat, add to the whites part of the salt entering into mixture, then, using a Dover beater, beat, in a cold place to a stiff- dry froth that will bear an egg. Mixing Sponge and Savoy Cake Have each ingredient carefully measured and close at hand, the pan ready, and the heat in the oven regulated to-bake the cake properly from start to finish. Carefully separate the chilled egg-whites and egg-yolks, as ex- plained above, in two. separate bowls. Set the whites in a cold place until needed. Beat the yolks until fairly thick and lemon-colored; continue beating, adding the sugar very gradually, and beat until light and creamy; then add the flavoring, either grated rind of lemon or orange, or vanilla flavored | sugar as explained at ‘‘How to Flavor with Economy,’’ or, instead of the sugar, add 1% teaspoon of vanilla extract. To the egg-whites add a part or all of the salt, then beat - in a cold place to a stiff-dry froth. Pour over the beaten whites the creamed yolk-sugar mixture and half of the sifted flour; and using a basting spoon, fold until partly mixed, continue folding while adding the remaining flour, and fold until fairly blended. Or, fold the beaten egg- -whites into the creamed yolk-sugar mixture, then add the flour, and fold until blended; although this will require a longer folding, which may frée some of the air cells. Whichever method is used must produce a light, fluffy mixture that can at once be easily spread in a pan, having it slightly higher on the side than in center. 534 THE FRENCH CHEF IN The above methods apply only to mixtures in which baking powder is used. If the egg-yolks used are large, these, beaten as above, with sugar added, will produce a rather soft fluffy mix- ture in which beat in a part of the flour, beating well before folding into it, alternately, the egg-whites and the remaining flour. Sponge Cake thus mixed will be very light. Mixing Butter Cake Prepare and measure all ingredients called for in recipe. Have them close at hand in order to proceed with the mixing quickly. Have the pan ready, the fire replenished, and the heat in the oven regulated. The salt, baking powder and soda, cream tartar, and other powdered spices or ingredients, are always re-sifted with the flour several times before the mixing. If fruits are used, dust them with flour, and add last except in dark cake, where they may be added to the first mixture. Put the weighed butter in a mixing bowl in a warm place or room a few hours before mixing the batter, so that it may be soft but not melted when needed. If soft butter is not at hand, pour some hot water into mixing bowl, then pour it out, and wipe bowl perfectly dry, put in the butter, cut in bits, and at once begin to stir with a wooden spoon until creamy, smooth, and light. Continue beating while adding the sugar very gradually, and beat until creamy and fluffy. Beating the eggs and butter produces light cakes. The eggs are added in various manners, and occasionally whole eggs beaten or unbeaten are added one by one, vigorously beating each egg into the first mixture at least 2 minutes before adding another egg, or, whole eggs beaten very light may be beaten into the cake batter. Add the liquid, then the flour sifted with the dry ingredi- ents, as explained above. Occasionally, the flour is added alternately with the liquid or the well-beaten eggs. All these batters are beaten vigorously from 3 to 5 minutes, with an egg wire-whip; this increases the firmness of the finished article, which is fine-grained. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES — = 535 \ When the eggs are added separately to the creamed butter and sugar mixture, it usually produces lighter cakes, but they are also drier. The egg-yolks are beaten until fairly thick and then‘beaten into the first mixture. . If the recipe calls for more sugar than the amount of butter given in the recipe will absorb to obtain a creamy mixture, then beat into the creamed yolk a part of the sugar until mixture is light and fluffy, and beat into first mixture. The beaten egg-whites are then added and well beaten into the first mixture, the liquid added, if any, and lastly the flour mixture, or they may be added alternately. All the above mixtures are beaten vigorously for 2 minutes before baking, and the beating should be the last motion, as stirring will loosen some of the air cells. Egg-whites beaten to a stiff dry froth are always added to a batter last, or alternately with the flour. These are folded in, and the folding should be the last motion, to thoroughly blend the cake before being baked. Arrange the batter in the prepared greased pan; and, using a flexible spatula, arrange surface a little higher on sides with a slight depression in center. - @ Butter Cake batter is always thick, as the butter or shortening acts as a moistener in baking; therefore, be careful. when mixing a new recipe to always have a thick batter kefore folding in the beaten-stiff egg whites. Butter Cake is always baked in a moderate oven unless otherwise directed. Oven Heat Slow oven, 270° F. to 349° F..... Will brown a meringue in 6 min. Moderate, 350° F. to 399° F..... Will brown a blank piece of aper in 5 minutes Hot oven 400° F, to 480° F.....At 425° F. will brown a table- spoon of flour in 5 minutes. Baking the Cake All Batter Cakes are baked as soon as mixed, and the fire should be so arranged before the mixing that the heat in the oven is just right when the batter is finished, and the fire replenished so that it lasts until the cake is thoroughly baked. 536 THE FRENCH CHEF IN — The spot in the oven to place the cake depends mostly on the distribution of the heat in the particular oven. If the heat in oyen is uneven, the cake will rise unevenly ; ‘ and, as cake must not be moved before it has risen its full height, if the cake is not expected to rise higher than the edge of pan, carefully place over top of the hotter side a screen of oiled stiff blank paper, but much care must be taken that the paper does not adhere to the cake. When the cake has risen to its full height, it should be turned ‘so it may brown evenly. If the oven ther- mometer is used, set it in the oven long before mixing™ in order that it may accurately register the temperature, which then may be regulated as necessary. It is in- dispensable, in successfully baking Batter Cake, to un- derstand the different phases of its baking, which may be divided into four quarters. In the first quarter, the mixture should rise in the pan, leaving on top a soft crust. The oven, therefore, should not be too hot, as cake must not brown in this part of the baking, otherwise a brown. crust will be formed which will prevent further rising, and cake will rise more in center than on the side. In the second quarter, it should continue to rise to its full height, and just begin to brown. In the third quarter, the cake becomes browned. In the fourth quarter it finishes browning properly, and shrinks from the pan. Watch the baking of the cake carefully in order to bake it properly; but do not open oven door before the eake is at least 6 minutes in oven, and it is best not to open door until after cake has been in oven 10 or 15 minutes. Do not open door too often, as many well- mixed Batter Cakes have been ruined ‘in this manner. When the oven is too hot, leave the door very slightly open a minute or so, but it is best to remove cover and open check of a coal range, or lower the gas heat. Loaf Cakes are usually baked in a moderate oven from 30 to 50 minutes. As a rule, all the Loaf Cakes of richest Sponge or Savoy type made without butter, and PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 5387 with only eggs as a moistener, are baked from 50 to 60 * minutes, according to size, in a very slow oven; and often these cakes, as soon as they are unmolded, are placed in the oven half a minute to dry a little. Rich Fruit and Pound Cakes require long baking in a rather slow, moderate oven, usually an hour or longer. Large Fruit Cake and Bride Cake require from 2 to-3 hours. These cakes are done when the cake feels firm to the pressing finger, and when, in pulling finger away from cake, it follows the finger back into place. Both Gem Cakes and Layer Cakes are baked in quick moderate ovens. When a baking cake cracks open as it rises, too much flour has been used. Usually the cake is done when it shrinks from the pan, but to make sure that a cake is done, pierce the center with a clean broom straw, and if it comes out clean the cake is done. Cake Recipes | SPONGE CAKE, I: 6 egg-yolks 2 ounces sifted pastry flour 4 ounces granulated sugar 2% ounces potato flour 4 ounces sifted pulverized sugar 6 egg-whites 1 teaspoon vanilla, or grated A dash of salt rind of lemon or orange e If these portions give too large a cake, use two-thirds the amount specified. Sift the pastry flour with the potato flour. Rub the egg-yolks until fairly thick and lemon-colored. While _beating, add slowly, first the granulated sugar, then the pulverized sugar. Beat until creamy and light, adding the rind. Add the salt to the egg-whites and beat to a stiff-dry froth that will bear an egg. Finish mixing as directed at ‘‘Mixing Sponge and Savoy Cake.’’ Ar- range mixture in a buttered cake tin dusted with flour, straighten surface, having it a little higher on the side and a slight depression in center. Bake in slow oven 1 hour. 538 THE FRENCH CHEF IN SPONGE CAKE, IT: 3 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla, or the grated ¥Y, teaspoon salt rind of a lemon or orange 1 cup sugar 1 cup pastry flour 1 tablespoon water 2 teaspoons baking powder Sift the flour with the baking powder. Beat thé eggs with the salt added, until very light. Continue beating, and slowly add the sugar; beat vigorously until light and fluffy. Continue the beating while gradually adding the water, the flour, and rind or vanilla. Beat vigorously. Bake in a moderate oven about 32 minutes. For a lighter cake separate the yolks from the whites and proceed as in the following recipe. SPONGE CAKE, III: 2 egg-yolks - 1 cup sifted pastry flour 1 cup granulated sugar 2 level teaspoons baking pow- 4 tablespoons hot water der A little grated rind of lemon 2 egg-whites or orange or 1% teaspoon 1 teaspoon salt vanilla : Use good-sized eggs. Sift the flour with the baking powder. Beat the yolks in a bowl until fairly thick and lemon-colored., Continue whipping while adding half the sugar. When creamy and light gradually add the hot water, the remaining sugar, and the vanilla or grated ‘rind; continue beating while adding the flour mixture. Beat well, then fold in the egg-whites, with the salt added and beaten to a stiff-dry froth. Arrange the batter in a greased cake tin dusted with flour and bake in moderate oven until done, or about 30 minutes. COCOA SPONGE CAKE: Using any one of the above recipes for Sponge Cake, measure out 1 tablespoon less of flour, and re-sift the flour with 3 tablespoons of cocoa. Flavor with vanilla, leaving out the lemon rind. DROP SPONGE CAKE: Upon a blank paper placed on a baking pan, drop from tip of spoon any one of the above Sponge Cake a PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 539° batters, taking care that batter drops are all of uniform size and at least an inch apart, one from the other. Dredge with powdered sugar, shake sugar off paper, and bake in a moderate oven nearly 8 minutes, or until done. Mix in this batter some chopped nuts, if desired. Or, to bake small Sponge Cakes, fill, two-thirds full, some oiled muffin rings dusted with flour, and bake’15. minutes, or until’done. Glaze them while hot with a Confectioner’s Icing, if desired. = * . These small cakes are occasionally split before being frosted, and then a whipped sweetened cream or a Cream Filling spread between, or an Apricot Jelly or Marmalade. ANGEL FOOD CAKE: , The original proportions of this white Sponge Cake are: 11 egg-whites, 10 ounces of sugar, 5 ounces of sifted pastry flour, and 1 rounded teaspoon of cream tartar. As the use of 11 egg-whites will cause a waste of egg- yolks, a reasonably sized cake can be made with the following proportions: 5 6 egg-whites chilled in a bowl 34 cup or 3 ounces pastry flour ¥% teaspoon salt a trifle less than either 5% ounces finest granulated 1 teaspoon cream tartar ‘ sugar, or sifted bar pow- ¥ teaspoon vanilla extract dered sugar Sift the flour and cream tartar several times. Add salt to the egg-whites, and beat to a stiff-dry froth that will bear an egg. With a wooden spoon gently stir in the sugar, and before it is blended, gradually add the flour and flavoring. Arrange in a cake pan brushed with oil and dusted with flour. Bake in a slow moderate oven 30 or 35“minutes. As soon as the cake has risen to its full height, put a screen of oiled paper over it, taking care that paper does not adhere to cake. SUNSHINE CAKE: Proceed as directed in the preceding recipe. Beat 3 egg-yolks until fairly thick and lemon-colored. Add these, with the.flavoring extract, just before adding . the flour mixture, and gently fold. 540 THE FRENCH CHEF IN LADY FINGERS: 3 egg-yolks . A dash of salt 2% ounces or 2¢ cup powdered 3 chilled egg-whites sugar A few drops vanilla ‘flavoring ¥% cup, sifted pastry flour When the eggs are large, use only 2 or 214 yolks. ‘For best results use vanilla flavored sugar (see, ‘‘ How to Flavor with Economy’’). Lacking this sugar, add a few drops of vanilla extract and proceed as directed at “Sponge Cake I.’’ Using a pastry bag with a circular small round tube, shape the Lady Fingers 4 inches long and 34 inch wide, on a blank paper in a baking pan, leaving at least an inch of open space between the cakes. Dredge with, powdered sugar, and holding the paper by the ends, shake off the superfluous sugar. Bake at once in a moderate oven to a colorless soft crust, nearly 8 minutes. Invert the sheet of paper, cakes downwards, upon a blank paper dusted with powdered sugar; gently but quickly brush top surface of paper with cold water, and let stand a few seconds. The moisture will allow the cakes on the other side to peel off easily, and two cakes placed at once together will adhere. BUTTER CAKE LOAF OR CUP CAKE: ¥4 eup or 4 ounces butter 2 cups sifted flour 1¥, cups finest granulated sugar 214 teaspoons baking powder 3 eggs, beaten 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract ¥,-teaspoon salt ‘ or grated rind of 44 lemon ¥% cup milk or orange 2 Using a slit spoon, rub the butter until soft and creamy. Continue beating, adding the sugar very grad- ually. Beat vigorously until light and creamy. Continue to beat, and add the eggs beaten one at a time, beating a few minutes after each addition of eggs; then add alternately the milk, with the flour sifted with the baking powder and salt, and add flavoring; beat well. Bake a loaf about 40 minutes in a moderate oven, and bake small cakes in muffin rings in a rather quick, moderate oven about 15 minutes. Use just enough milk © to obtain a thick batter, PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 541 \ LAYER BUTTER CAKE: 3 ounces or 4 cup butter 2% level teaspoons baking pow- 1 cup sugar der 2 eggs, well beaten Grated rind of 1% lemon or 14 teaspoon salt - orange, or a few drops of 14 cup milk or water: vanilla extract 7% ounces or 164 cups pastry flour Mix as in preceding recipe. Bake in two or three layers, in a rather quick moderate oven. CREAM PIE CAKE: - Spread, between the layers of a cake made as in preceding recipe, any one of the Cream Fillings. Put together, and dredge over some powdered sugar. Varieties of Layer Cake Bake Layer Cake in a greased round pan as directed above. Let cool, and when cold, put the layers together, spreading between any of the following Fillings: Mocha, Apple, Fig, Strawberry, Pineapple, Marshmallow, Coco- nut, ete. Dredge over cake some powdered sugar. Or, a cold baked: Sponge Cake may be split, then ‘spread with an Apricot Jelly or a sweetened whipped cream. ICE CREAM CAKE: 31¢ ounces or 24 cup butter 1 teaspoon vanilla or lemon 9 ounces or 1% eups sugar extract 2 cups or 8 ounces sifted flour 2% cup water 314 level teaspoons baking pow- 4 egg-whites, well beaten der . Sift the baking powder with the flour. Rub the butter with a slit spoon until creamy. Beating, slowly . add the sugar, and beat 3 minutes; continue beating while adding alternately the flour and the liquid; lastly, beat in the egg-whites and beat vigorously 2 minutes. Bake 15 minutes in'a quick moderate oven, ‘in layers. Spread between the cooled layers any of the following Fillings: Pineapple, Strawberry, Apple, Nut, Marsh- mallow; or, use a Lady Baltimore Cake Filling. * 542 THE FRENCH CHEF IN SNOW OR BUTTER WHITE CAKE, I: 2 ounces or %4 cup butter 3° level teaspoons baking pow- 1 cup sugar der 1% cup milk 2 egg-whites 634 ounces or 15 cups sifted ¥% teaspoon salt flour Grated rind of 4% lemon or ; orange Sift the flour with the baking powder and salt. With a slit spoon beat the butter until creamy; continue beat- ing, adding the sugar gradually; beat until fluffy and creamy, adding the lemon rind. Beat the egg-whites, add them a little at a time to the creamed butter mixture, beat vigorously a few minutes, and continue beating while adding alternately the milk and the flour mixture. Beat vigorously a few minutes, and bake in a moderate oven 40 minutes or until done. SNOW OR BUTTER WHITE CAKE, II: 4 ounces or % cup butter 31% ounces potato flour, or about 434 ounces, or % cup finest 56cup granulated sugar 3 tablespoons milk or water 2% ounces, or nearly 34 cup % teaspoon vanilla extract pastry flour e 6 egg-whites ¥@ teaspoon salt Sift the flour, potato flour, and salt together. Using a slit spoon, beat the butter until creamy. Continue . beating, slowly adding the sugar, and beat until creamy and light. Beat the egg-whites, then while beating the creamed sugar mixture, add the egg- -white, a tablespoon’: at a time, beating ‘vigorously 2 minutes after each spoon- ful. Continue beating while adding alternately the flour and the water, then beat vigorously 5 minutes. Bake in a moderate oven about 40 minutes. WINE CAKE: Substituting 3 tablespoons of Madeira wine for the milk, and the juice and grated rind of % lemon for the vanilla, proceed as directed in preceding recipe, and color mixture with a little carmine. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 543 CHOCOLATE CAKE, I: Melt 114% ounces of grated Baker’s Chocolate over hot water; remove from the fire, stir in 1 teaspoon of vanilla, and when cooled, add to a Snow’ Cake II batter before adding the flour. CHOCOLATE CAKE, Il: % eup butter 156 cups pastry flour 1 eup sugar 2% level teaspoons baking pow- 2 egg-yolks der «+ 3 heaping tablespoons powder- 1 teaspoon vanilla ed- unsweetened chocolate % teaspoon salt % eup milk 2 egg-whites Use good-sized eggs. _ Sift the flour and baking pow- der together. Rub the butter until creamy. Continue beating, and slowly add the sugar. Beat until light. Then, continuing beating, add the beaten egg-yolks, beat well, add the chocolate, and, still beating, add alternately the milk and the flour mixture, then the vanilla. Beat well, then fold in the egg-whites with salt added and beaten to a stiff-dry froth. Arrange the batter in a ~ greased pan lined with oiled paper, and bake 40 minutes in a moderate oven. : _CHOCOLATE NOUGAT CAKE: 3 ounees or % cup butter 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1% cups sugar ¥ teaspoon cinnamon 3 eggs, yolks and whites sep- %eup milk (if the eggs are arated small use a little more) Y% teaspoon salt 4 rounded tablespoons of pow- 2 cups sifted flour dered chocolate 21% level teaspoons baking powder Sift the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt together. Rub the butter until creamy, and, beating, slowly add half the sugar, then beat until creamy and light. Beat the egg-yolks until fairly thick, continue beating, slowly adding the remaining sugar; beat until light and fluffy. Beating vigorously, combine with first mixture. Finish the mixing as in preceding recipe. Bake layers in a quick moderate oven, in tins lined with oiled paper. Spread between layers a Boiled White Frosting, _ 544 THE FRENCH CHEF IN T to which is added 1% cup of chopped walnuts or shredded blanched almonds. GRAHAM CAKE: ¥q cup butter % cup walnuts, chopped 1 eup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 egg-yolks, beaten -2 egg-whites with a dash of 1 eup pastry flour salt added, beaten stiff 2 teaspoons baking powder and firm % cup milk , 1% cups graham crackers, rolled fine Sift the flour with baking powder, then mix with the rolled crackers. Cream the butter, continue beating and slowly add the sugar. When creamy and light add the yolks. Continue beating while adding alternately the liquid and flour, then the vanilla. Beat vigorously a minute before folding in the egg-whites, then add the nuts. Bake 15 minutes in a quick moderate oven in two or three layers. Spread between and over layers an Almond Meringue Paste Frosting and stand in a cold’ . oven till a crust is formed. Or, simply spread between the layers a sweetened whipped cream with chopped nuts added. CITRON CAKE: % cup butter 2%% cups pastry flour 1% cups sugar 2% level teaspoons baking 4 eggs, beaten light powder 1¢ teaspoon.salt 2¢ cup milk _ 1 teaspoon lemon extract 1 cup citron Grated rind of a lemon Sift the flour and baking powder together. Thinly slice the citron lengthwise, then crosswise. Cream the butter, and, beating, slowly add. the sugar; beat well. Continue. beating while adding the eggs a little at the time. Beat till light and very fiuffy. Continue beating while adding alternately the flour and milk, then the flavoring and citron. Beat well. Bake 1 hour and 10 minutes in a moderate oven. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 545 DEVIL CAKE: Custard Part 3 ounces unsweetened pow- 26 eup sweet milk dered chocolate 1 egg-yolk 1 cup brown sugar % vanilla bean Mix the sugar and chocolate in the top pot of a double boiler; stirring, add milk and vanilla bean. Scald the mixture over boiling water, then beat in the egg- yolks, slightly beaten. Cook 3 minutes, -then remove and beat the mixture while cooling. 5 ; Second Part ¥% eup butter 3 level teaspoons baking 1 cup brown sugar powder 2 egg-yolks %eup sour milk 3 eups pastry flour 2 - egg-whites ¥% teaspoon baking soda "¥ teaspoon salt Sift the flour, baking powder and soda together. Cream the butter, and, beating, slowly add two-thirds of the sugar, beating vigorously with a slit spoon until creamy. Beat the egg-yolks until fairly thick, continue beating, and slowly add the remaining sugar; beat until light and creamy. Combine with the butter and sugar mixture, beating well. Continue beating, add the custard, then, alternately, the sour milk and flour mix- ture. Beat 2 minutes. Lastly, fold in the egg-whites with the salt added and beaten to a stiff-dry froth.~If the vanilla bean has not been used, add a teaspooh of vanilla extract. Bake in layer tins lined with greased paper, in a rather quick, moderate oven. Spread be- tween and upon the layers a Marshmallow Filling. LADY BALTIMORE CAKE: Bake a Snow or Butter White Cake I in layers. When cold, spread between with the following: Frosting: Put in an enameled saucepan, over the fire, 14 cup of water, turn onto center 114 cups of sugar; then stir until dissolved, and boil until it spins a thread, or best, to the Soft-Ball. Have ready 2 egg-whites with a dash of salt added, and beaten to a stiff-dry ‘froth. 18 zi 546 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Continue to beat. the eggs with a wire egg-beater while slowly adding the boiling sugar in a fine stream. Add Y% cup of seeded chopped raisins, a few figs cut in small pieces, 14 cup of chopped walnuts, and % teaspoon each, of lemon juice and lemon extract. RIBBON CAKE: 3 ounces or 34 cup butter 3% cup milk 114 cups sugar 2%, cups or 9 ounces sifted flour 3 eggs Grated rind of a lemon or ¥,-teaspoon salt orange Mix bafter as directed at ‘‘Mixing Butter Cake.’’ Have ready three greased round layer pans and spread on two of them a little more than 24 of the batter. In the remaining batter, mix 14 cup each of seeded raisins and figs, chopped, then spread in the other greased layer pan. Or, leaving out the grated rind, when mixing the cake, add 14 teaspoon of vanilla extract; then add to the remaining layer 2 tablespoons of cocoa and a few drops of vanilla instead of the chopped fruit. Bake 15 minutes in a rather quick, moderate oven; cool and spread between the layers a lemon filling, putting the cake together with the dark layer in center. Dredge over with some powdered sugar. MOLASSES CAKE: 14% cups New Orleans molasses 114 teaspoons cinnamon 24 eup of butter A dash of cloves 2% cups pastry flour 1 teaspoon ginger 1% teaspoons baking soda 2 eggs, beaten light 1% teaspoons baking powder 144 cup (scant) of hot water Re-sift, all together, the flour, baking powder, soda, and remaining dry ingredients. Slightly heat the molasses, remove from fire, and add the butter cut in bits. Stir till the butter is dissolved, then add the eggs, and beat well. From now on, work quickly. Beating, add alternately the hot water and flour mixture, beat vigorously a few seconds and at once pour in cake tin, lined with greased paper. Bake about 40 minutes, in a rather good, mod- erate oven. \ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 547 POTATO CAKE: 1% eup butter %, cup unsweetened powdered 1 cup sugar chocolate ~ “3 eggs, beaten light 34 cup mashed potatoes 1 ‘teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla A dash each, of clove and 2 cups pastry flour nutmeg 2 level teaspoons baking pow- ¥% teaspoon salt der % eup walnuts, cut in pieces Cream the butter. While beating, slowly -add the sugar; beat*until light; then, still beating with a slit spoon, add the beaten eggs one at a time. Beat 3 min- utes after each addition of egg. Continue to beat while adding the mashed potatoes and chocolate, sift the re- maining dry ingredients together, and beating vigorously, add the flour mixture and vanilla, beat 2 minutes, and bake in a moderate oven 40 minutes, in a pan lined with greased paper. Or, using only 2 eggs, add alternately with the flour - 4 cup of milk. LITTLE POUND CAKE: 4 ounces‘or 1% cup butter Grated rind of 4% lemon ‘or % eup sugar 1 teaspoon of vanilla ex-' 3 eggs tract 1 up sifted flour Mix as directed at ‘‘Mixing Butter ‘Calke? Bake 15 minutes in a rather quick, moderate oven, in a ce muffin ring pan. Or, dropped from teaspoon onto blank paper, bake as ‘‘ Cookies.’’ GRAHAM NUT CAKE: 5 egg-yolks 1 cup walnuts 144 cups sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 13 cups graham crackers 5 egg-whites rolled fine 1g teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking powder 14% tablespoons melted butter Mix the rolled crackers with the nuts and the baking powder and force through the meat chopper. Rub the egg-yolks till thick and lemon éolored. Continue to beat, adding lowly the sugar.- ‘Beat until creamy. and light, 548 THE FRENCH CHEF IN s and ‘still beating, add slowly the cracker mixture and vanilla. Add the salt to the egg-whites and beat them to a stiff-dry froth. Fold in first mixture. Bake in a rather quick moderate oven about 18 minutes, in two layer tins lined with oiled paper. Filling: Add and beat 3 tablespoons of Hip-O-Lite Marshmallow Créme into a Butter Creamy Filling, vanilla flavored (see recipe). If desired, use as filling a sweetened whipped cream with chopped nuts added. BRIDE CAKE; 1 cup butter 7 egg-whites, beaten to a very 1 cup finest granulated sugar stiff-dry froth 1 egg-white, beaten to a froth 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, or 2 cups pastry flour the grated rind of a lemon ¥% cup milk and 1 teaspoon lemon ex- 1 teaspoon baking powder ‘traet 2 Sift the flour and baking powder. Cream the butter, and, beating, slowly add the sugar. Beat until very light and creamy. Add the first egg-white, and beat 5 min-. utes. Continue the beating while adding alternately the flour and milk, then the flavoring. Beat well for 5 minutes. Lastly fold in the beaten-stiff egg-whites. Bake 1 hour and 15 minutes in a slow, moderate oven. Larger cakes will require longer cooking. CHRISTMAS CAKE: 2 eups or 1 pound butter 4 to 4% eups sifted flour 14% cups sugar % cup brandy or grape juice 7 egg-yolks 5 egg-whites, bedten to a stiff- 2 egg-whites, well beaten, but dry froth not stiff-dry : 1' pound seeded raisins 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 pound currants %, teaspoon allspice %, cup blanched almonds, ¥4 teaspoon each, nutmeg, shredded < ~ clove, and mace - Y% pound mixed citron and can- Juice and grated rind of a died orange peel, thinly lemon shredded ; Rub the butter with a slit spoon until creamy, slowly add the sugar, and beat until light. Continue beating, . PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 549 adding the egg-yolks previously beaten until fairly thick ; beat vigorously while adding one at a time the first 2 egg-whites, beating 3 minutes after each addition of egg. Add the spice, lemon juice, and rind. Continue beating while adding alternately the flour and the brandy, using enough flour to obtain a thick batter; beat well. Lastly, fold in the beaten-stiff ‘egg-whites and the pre- pared fruit, dusted with flour. Bake 2 hours in a slow oven in a cake pan lined with several thicknesses of greased paper. If two loaves of this cake are made, then bake 1 hour and 20 minutes. Or, bake in a sheet pan as in the following recipe if the cake is | to be served in boxes as Wedding Cake. . WEDDING CAKE: 12 ounces butter 1 teaspoon each, allspice, cin- 1 pound brown sugar namon and mace 10 egg-yolks, beaten till 1 teaspoon each, cloves and lemon-colored —\ nutmeg 2- egg-whites, beaten to a 8 egg-whites, beaten stiff- -dry froth, but not stiff 1¥ pounds each, seeded _ raisins 2 lemons, juice and grated and currants rind ¥, pound each, thinly shredded 4¢ cup molasses citron, candied orange 1 pound or 4 cups flour peel, and blanched al- 1 teaspoon soda monds Sift the flour with the soda and spices added three : times. Dredge a little of the flour over the prepared mixed fruits. With the remaining ingredients, proceed as in preceding recipe, adding the molasses to the eggs and creamed sugar mixture before beating in the flour alternately with the lemon juice. Add the fruit last of all. Bake about 2 hours in a moderate oven, and after the cake has risen to its full height, cover with a sheet of oiled blank paper. Frost with a fondant icing. Tf the cake is to be served in boxes, bake in large.sheet pans lined with several thicknesses of greased paper. This batter will produce an 8-pound cake. 550 THE FRENCH CHEF IN t BIRTHDAY CAKE: ; % cup butter” 14 teaspoon salt 1% cups brown sugar - 2% cup seeded raisins 3 eggs, beaten light 4% cup currants 1 lemon or orange rind, ¥% cup walnuts, cut in small grated . pieces 3 cups or 12 ounces pastry 3 _ tablespoons citron or orange flour peel, shredded 3 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon of orange extract, ¥Y% eup sherry or water if water is used Sift the flour with the baking powder and salt. Cream the butter, and while beating, gradually add the sugar. Beat till creamy, and add the rind. Continue to beat, and gradually add the eggs; beat 3 minutes. Continue to beat while adding alternately the flour mixture and liquid; beat well, and add the mixed fruits sprinkled with a little of the measured flour. Bake 1 hour and 10 minutes in a moderate oven in a round cake pan lined with greased paper. Spread a Royal Frosting. over un- moulded warm cake. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 551 CHAPTER XXVII CAKE FROSTINGS AND FILLINGS INEXPENSIVE CAKES AND GINGER BREADS WHEN using uncooked frosting, let the baked cake partly cool. If the cake gets cold, place it awhile in the oven to warm it a little. Spread the frosting with a flexible pallet. When using boiled frosting, it does not make much difference whether the cake is warm or cold. Nearly all French cakes are first brushed with a melted Apricot Jelly. This is allowed to cool until set, then it is spread with a French Frosting (see recipe). Small individual cakes, such as thoseemade of any standard cake batter, are slightly cooled and dipped in the following glaze before frosting. When glaze is dry, frost, and ornament as desired. Glaze for Small Cakes, before Frosting: Turn 1% eup of sugar into 3 tablespoons of water in a saucepan over the fire, stir until sugar is dissolved, and boil until it ‘forms a soft ball when dropped in cold water and rolled between the fingers. CONFECTIONERS’ FROSTING: . Place 3 tablespoons of boiling water in a bowl, and, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, slowly add enough sifted confectioners’ sugar to obtain a paste of a smooth, even consistency. Flavor and color to suit the fancy. : FONDANT FROSTING: Consult Index at ‘‘Fondant.’’ BOILED WHITE FROSTING: 8 ounces sugar 1% teaspoon vanilla or orange ¥% cup water blossom water 1 or 2 egg-whites, beaten stiff-dry Boil the water and sugar as directed at ‘‘Glaze for Small Cakes,’’ or until it threads when dropped from -_ 552 THE FRENCH CHEF IN the spoon; then, while beating the eggs beaten stiff-dry in a bowl, slowly add the boiling syrup. Continue heat- ing until it becomes of smooth and even consistency, then add the flavoring. BOILED CHOCOLATE FROSTING: Melt 2 ounces of Baker’s Chocolate over hot water, © and add it to a Boiled White Frosting. ’ EGGLESS BOILED CHOCOLATE FROSTING: Melt 2 ounces of Baker’s Chocolate over hot water. Boil 8 ounces of sugar with 14 cup of water as directed above; then, stirring the melted chocolate, pour in the boiling syrup glowly. Flavor with 14 teaspoon of vanilla. PLAIN CHOCOLATE FROSTING: Melt 2 ounces of Baker’s Chocolate over hot water ; then stir and add, slowly and gradually, 2 tablespoons of boiling water, about 1 cup of sifted powdered sugar, and 1% teaspoon of vanilla. Use enough sugar to obtain a stiff batter of an even-spreading consistency. This frost- ing may be re-heated in hot water, if necessary to soften _ it for spreading upon a warm cake. FRUIT JUICE FROSTING: Stir into § cup of warm fruit-juice, enough sifted confectioners’ sugar to obtain a stiff paste which, warmed over hot water, will soften to an even-spreading con- sistency for frosting a warm cake. CARAMEL FROSTING: Put 14 cup of sugar in a clean, small frying-pan over the fire. Cook until richly golden-browned, occasionally stirring with a wooden stick so it may caramelize evenly, lifting the pan as necessary to prevent burning. As soon as the desired color is obtained, stop the cooking by setting bottom of pan into cold water, then add 3. * ~ tablespoons of hot water and cook again until it has PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 553 formed a thick syrup. Remove from the fire, and grad- ually stir in enough powdered sugar to obtain a stiff paste. Set it over the fire again and stir constantly until warm and softened to an-even spreading consistency,. then spread over cake, HONEY FROSTING: Boil a cup of honey until thick, about 15 minutes. Beat 2 egg-whites to a stiff-dry froth, and continue beat- ing while slowly adding the boiling honey. Beat until nearly cold, or to an éven-spreading consistency. — FRENCH FROSTING: Nearly all French cakes are brushed with a melted Apricot Jelly before frosting the cake, to give them a sparkling appearance, and allowed to stand until the jelly is firm. Then, with a flexible spatula, the top and sides of the cake are covered with the following frosting, flavored as desired. The cake is placed in a slow oven and let stand until dry. Frosting: Put flavoring in a bowl, and, while stir- ring with a wooden spoon, gradually add enough sifted powdered sugar to obtain a stiff paste, bringing it to an even-spreading consistency by stirring in, very grad- ually, some of the following hot sugar syrup: Syrup: Boil until clear 1% cup of water with 14 cup of sugar. For an orange flavoring use 14 cup of orange juice and add to sugar, when making syrup, a sugar-cube rubbed on an orange-rind. This frosting is colored with a little carmine. For a lemon flavoring, proceed as for orange, utilizing ‘lemon juice instead of orange, and a sugar-cube, rubbed on a lemon-rind, but omit the carmine eoloring. Kirsch, Maraschino, cocoa, or fruit juice may be utilized as flavoring, and with any one of them proceed as above. nas 554 THE FRENCH CHEF IN ALMOND MERINGUE PASTE FROSTING (for Loaf Cake and Petits Fours) : Blanch 4 ounces of almonds, wipe between towels, » and dry. Chop fine or force through the nut grinder. Boil 1% cup of water and 1 pound of sugar as directed above, or until it threads when dropped from a spoon. Beat 8 egg-whites to a stiff-dry froth. Add the almonds, then, beating, add the boiling sugar, and continue to beat until of right consistency to spread upon cake before it is cold. Bake cake in a cold oven until it has formed a soft crust. Color paste to suit the fancy. MOCHA FROSTING: Cream 21% ounces of best butter. Continue to stir, slowly adding about 114 cups of confectioners’ sugar and 3 tablespoons of very strong coffee. The mixture should hold its shape and be of an even-spreading con- sistency. ORANGE FROSTING: Work the juice of an orange with enough powdered sugar to obtain a smooth paste of an even-spreading consistency. Color with carmine. ¢ GELATINE FROSTING: Soak a level teaspoon of granulated gelatine 20 min- utes in a tablespoon of cold water. Dissolve it with 2 tablespoons of boiling water; then, while stirring, grad- ually add about 2% cup of sifted confectioners’ sugar, and 1% teaspoon of flavoring extract. The mixture should be of a smooth, even-spreading consistency. Spread upon a cold cake before it sets, and onament, if desired, with pastry bag and rose tube. ROYAL FROSTING: Royal Frosting is made by stirring or by beating. In the latter case it is used only to ornament a cake; in the former, it is spread upon a warm cake. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 555 Put in a bowl an unbeaten chilled egg-white. Add % teaspoon of lemon juice or orange blossom water, and, while stirring with a wooden spoon, slowly add about.a eup of sifted confectioners’ sugar or bar powdered sugar. Stir until of an even-spreading consistency, using enough sugar to obtain that result. If chocolate frosting is de- sired, stir in 2 or 3 tablespoons of cocoa and substitute for the above flavoring a teaspoon of vanilla extract. Spread upon a warm cake. Ornamental Royal Frosting: Put 2 chilled egg- whites in a bowl; add a tablespoon of powdered sugar, beat well, and add another tablespoon of sugar, then beat again. Continue to add sugar and continue beating until it has become of an even-spreading consistency, oceasionally adding a few drops of lemon juice as it gradually thickens, beating all the while. Spread a part of the frosting upon a warm cake. To the remaining frosting in bowl, add_and beat in gradually sufficient sugar to keep its shape when forced through a pastry bag and fancy tube, by which process the cake is ornamented. Either of the above frostings may be flavored and colored to suit the fancy. ITALIAN, OR ORNAMENTAL MERINGUE: Boil 814 ounces or a generous cup of sugar and 14 cup of water with half a-vanilla bean added as directed at ‘‘Boiling of Sugar,’’ until it threads when dropped from a spoon. Remove bean, beat 4 egg-whites with 4% teaspoon of salt added, to a stiff-dry froth that will bear an egg. Continue beating the egg-whites while letting the boiling sugar slowly fall on them in a thin stream. If the sugar is boiled to the right point and “the beaten egg-whites kept firm, it will form a consistent mass that can be easily manipulated. ’ Cakes ornamented with, this mixture should be set in a very slow oven until a crust is formed. COFFEE FROSTING FOR SMALL CAKES: Put 3 tablespoons of very strong coffee and 14 cup of sugar in boiling water and boil 1 minute. Remove \ 556 THE FRENCH CHEF IN from the fire, and gradually stir in enough confectioners’ sugar to obtain a paste of even-spreading consistency. While warm, frost cake. Recipes for Fillings CREME AU BEURRE, OR BUTTER CREAMY FILLING PASTE: 24 cup sweet or washed butter 1% cup sugar 3 egg-yolks ¥ vanilla bean ¥Y, eup water ‘ Cream the butter. Boil the water, with the sugar and vanilla bean added, until it threads. Beat the egg-yolks with a wire egg-beater a few seconds, and continue to beat while slowly adding the hot syrup, then remove bean and beat until cold. Continue to beat, adding the butter gradually, bit by bit. Béat vigorously 2 minutes or until very smooth. For almond flavor, add 1 ounce of grated almond paste and 2 drops of bitter almond. For a Chocolate Creamy Filling, add about 2 rounded tablespoons of cocoa. For a Mocha Creamy Filling, leave out the vanilla bean and substitute for the water when making the sugar-syrup an equal amount of strong clear coffee and add to finished filling a teaspoon of coffee essence. CREAM FILLING: % eup sugar ¥% vanilla bean, split 1% scant cup sifted flour 1% eups scalded milk A dash of salt 2 egg-yolks If vanilla bean is not used, add a teaspoon of vanilla extract to the finished mixture. Mix flour, sugar, salt, and vanilla bean in top pot of a double boiler, and, while stirring, slowly add the milk. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, in double boiler until thick and smooth, then stir in the beaten egg-yolks, and cook and stir 8 minutes. Remove, and. beat while cooling. Remove bean, and beat in a table- spoon of hot melted butter. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 557 CHOCOLATE CREAM FILLING: Melt: 2 ounces of Baker’s Chocolate over hot water, then beat it into a cooked Cream Filling, as above. _ Or, proceeding as directed at ‘‘Cream Filling,’’ mix with the sugar and the flour, before adding the milk, 4 cup of powdered unsweetened chocolate, then finish as directed. Use a trifle less flour than directed, if desired. Beat while cooling. MOCHA CREAM FILLING: Proceed as directed at ‘‘Cream Filling,’’ only sub- stitute for the milk 24 cup of very strong, clear coffee scalded with 24 cup of thin cream. Beat while cooling. ALMOND OR PISTACHIO FILLING: Pound 1% cup of blanched almonds or pistachio nuts to a paste, and while pounding them, add a tablespoon of milk. Then, while cooling, beat this nut paste into a Cream Filling or a Butter Cream Filling. BUTTER CREAM FILLING: Cream 34 cup of sweet or washed butter. Continue to beat, while adding, very gradually, any one of the above cream fillings, cold. When finished, witha wire beater beat vigorously 5 minutes. COCOANUT FILLING: Add a few drops of lemon juice to an egg-white in a bowl, and, stirring constantly, add enough powdered. sugar to obtain a paste of even-spreading consistency, adding a handful of shredded cocoanut and ¥ teaspoon of lemon extract. Spread upon a warm cake, and dredge with cocoanut. PLAIN CREAM FILLING, OR CREME CHAN- TILLY: Beat a cup of chilled cream in a chilled bowl, and set in cracked ice until dry to bottom of bowl. Drain on a 558 THE FRENCH CHEF IN strainer, remove to the bowl, and with a wooden spoon gently mix in 14 cup of sifted powdered sugar and.a few drops of vanilla, unless vanilla-flavored sugar has already been used. (See, ‘‘How to Flavor. with Econ- omy.’’) If desired, to make it more bulky, add an egg- white beaten stiff-dry. FOAMY CREAM FILLING, OR CREMES MOUSSEUSES: Used for filling of small cakes and Petits-Fours. ¥% cup sweet or washed butter 14 cup sugar 4 egg-yolks ¥ vanilla bean % cup water With the above ingredients proceed as directed at ‘‘Créme au Beurre, or Butter Creamy Filling Paste.’’ This will give a Vanilla Créme Mousseuse. For a Lemon Créme Mousseuse substitute for the vanilla bean the rind of a lemon, when making the syrup, and add to the finished syrup a teaspoon of lemon juice. and a few drops of lemon extract. ; For an Orange Créme Mousseuse substitute orange- rind for lemon and flavor with a tablespoon of orange juice and 1% teaspoon orange blossom water or extract. For a Pineapple Créme Mousseuse, substitute for the vanilla sugar syrup a syrup made as follows: To 1%. cup of the liquor of drained canned pineapples, add % cup of sugar and boil as above until sticky, when tried between the fingers. Add a teaspoon of pineapple ex- tract or lemon juice. If the filling is not to be forced through a pastry bag and star tube to ornament a cake, add some thinly chopped pineapple; otherwise dredge over the ornamented cake some very thinly chopped pine- apple or candied pineapple. For liquor Crémes Mousseuses, add to the syrup 1 or 2 tablespoons of any one of the following liquors: Maraschino, Kirsch or Curacao, etc. MOCHA FOAMY CREAM FILLING: _ Wash six ounces of butter as directed at ‘‘How to Wash Butter, etc.’’ When perfectly dry, rub until —_ f PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 559 creamy. Boil 14 cup of water with 1 cup of sugar until a little of it, tried in cold water, may be rolled into a soft ball, then add 2 tablespoons of coffee extract, or 14 cup of strong coffee, and boil again until it threads when dropped from a spoon. Beat 8 egg-whites with 4 tea- spoon of salt to a stiff-dry froth that will bear an egg. Continue beating and add the boiling sugar. Beat until just lukewarm, continue beating, and add the creamed oe bit by bit, then beat vigorously until thoroughly cooled. MARSHMALLOW FILLING: 1% eups sugar 12 marshmallows, cut in pieces % cup water 2 egg-whites 2 drops lemon juice ¥% teaspoon salt Boil the water, sugar, and lemon juice until it will spin a thread when dropped from spoon. Add the marshmallow, and stir until dissolved and boiling. Add salt to the egg-whites, beat to a stiff-dry froth that will bear an egg, continue beating, and add the boiling sugar mixture. Beat with a wire egg-beater until lukewarm, then spread on cake layers. ORANGE OR LEMON CREAM FILLING: Cream 34 of a cup or 6 ounces of sweet or washed butter, adding the grated rind of 1% orange. Continue to beat while adding alternately some sifted powdered sugar and 3 tablespoons of strained orange juice. Use just enough sugar to make stiff enough to spread. If the orange is sweet add a little lemon juice. For a Lemon Cream Filling substitute lemon for %. orange-rind and juice. ae LEMON FILLING, I: Proceed as for ‘‘Lemon Whip.’’ . LEMON FILLING, II: Mix a scant cup of sugar with a heaping tablespoon of sifted flour in. a small saucepan. Add the grated 560 THE FRENCH CHEF IN rind of a lemon and % cup of lemon juice, and a slightly- beaten egg. Set over a slow fire and beat with a small wire egg-beater until thick and smooth. Beat while cooling, adding a tablespoon of hot melted butter. ORANGE FILLING: Same as preceding, using the grated rind and juice of a small orange, and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. Color with a little carmine. ‘ MAPLE FILLING: Boil a cup of maple syrup with ¥Y eup sugar until a little of it, tried in cold water, may be rolled-into a soft ball. Add a dash of salt to 2 egg-whites in a bowl, and beat them to a stiff-dry froth that can bear an egg. Gontinue beating while adding the hot syrup, beating until nearly cooled. APPLE FILLING: Make as directed at ‘‘Apple Whip.’’ If desired, combine with a little whipped cream sweetened to the taste with powdered sugar and flavored with a few drops of lemon juice. : FIG FILLING: _ Thinly chop some fresh figs and mix in enough sifted bar sugar to.sweeten to taste. Flavor with a little cin- namon or a few drops of lemon juice. Ory, add to a boiling syrup made of 14 cup, each, of water ‘and sugar, 34 pound of dried figs forced through the meat chopper. Cook and stir in the double boiler until of an even-spreading consistency, then cool. - GELATINE CREAMY. FILLING: Scald 4 pint of milk. In a saucepan put 14 cup sugar, a dash of salt, 3 egg-yolks, and, while stirring in the double boiler, gradually add the milk. Cook \ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 561 until it slightly masks the spoon, without boiling. Re- move and beat in a level tablespoon of granulated gela- tine that has soaked 20 minutes in 14 cup of cold -water and has been dissolved over hot water. Strain, adding a teaspoon of flavoring. Cool and as it begins to thicken set it in icewater, and beat till firm enough to hold its shape. Spread at once on cake layers. ~ PINEAPPPLE FILLING: In the top pot of a double boiler put 14 cup of sugar and'1 tablespoon of cornstarch. Mix thoroughly, and stirring, add 24 cup of pineapple liquor drained out of a can of pineapple, and a slightly-beaten egg. Con- stantly beating with a small wire egg-beater, cook 12 minutes, then add about a cup of pineapple cut -into small dice. Cook a few minutes, and remove from the fire, then stir in gently a tablespoon of hot melted butter. Inexpensive Cakes and Ginger Breads. ONE-EGG BUTTER CAKE: ¥% cup butter 3 level teaspoons baking pow- ¥% cup sugar : er 1 egg with a dash of salt, -©%4teaspoon vanilla, or the beaten light grated rind of lemon or % eup milk orange 1¥4 cups sifted flour Rub the butter until creamy, continue beating, and add the sugar very slowly. .Beat until creamy and light, and, beating, add the egg. Beat well while adding alternately the liquid and the flour sifted with the baking powder. Beat 3 minutes, adding the flavoring. Bake 30 minutes in a moderate oven. SPICE CAKE: %4 cup sour thick cream 1¥% teaspoons cinnamon 3%, cup sifted brown sugar 1 teaspoon allspice 25 cups or 10% ounces pastry A dash each, nutmeg and flour clove . 1 level teaspoon soda 1% cups seeded raisins, chopped Mix the chopped fruit with a little flour, sift the flour and. baking soda several times, or, for a lighter 562 THE FRENCH CHEF IN mixture, sift with the flour a teaspoon of baking powder. While beating the cream constantly with a wire egg- beater, very gradually add the sugar, molasses, and spice, then the flour. Beat well, and add the prepared fruit. Arrange in a cake pan lined with oiled paper, and bake at once in a moderate oven 1 hour. When partly cooled, spread over with a Confectioners’ or Royal Frosting. INEXPENSIVE WEDDING CAKE: . 1% cups molasses 1% teaspoons cinnamon %4 cup butter, cut into bits ¥% teaspoon each, nutmeg and 1 lemon or orange, grated clove rind only 14% pounds mixed currants, 3% cups or 15 ounces sifted seeded raisins, figs, cut in flour ? pieces, and sliced dates 1¥% teaspoons each, baking pow- %cup shredded mixed citron der, baking soda, and all- and candied orange peel spice Sift together several times the flour, baking powder, and soda, and the spice, cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove. Dredge over the fruit %4 cup of flour, and mix. Put the butter in a bowl, and, stirring, add the heated molasses. Stir constantly until melted, adding the lemon rind and juice, and, beating, add the flour mixture, then add the prepared fruit. Arrange in a cake pan lined with oiled paper, and bake at once 1 hour and 40 minutes, in a moderate oven. As soon as the cake has risen its full height, cover with an oiled paper. SOFT GINGER BREAD (EGGLESS): 1 cup New Orleans molasses 15 cups sifted flour ee 1 tablespoon melted butter 1 teaspoon baking soda ¥Y, teaspoon salt Additional sifted flour as 144 teaspoons ginger needed to obtain a very 1é teaspoon each, nutmeg, clove thick batter and allspice Sift the first portion of flour with the baking soda. Stir the salt and spice into the molasses, beat in the sifted flour mixture, and add enough extra sifted flour to obtain a very thick batter or dough, just too soft to roll out. Bake in greased pan lined with oiled paper, in a moderate oven nearly 40 minutes or until done. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 563 SOFT GINGER BREAD, I:* 1 cup dripping 1 cup sugar 1 cup molasses 1 cup boiling water Pour the boiling water over the first three ingredients, stir, and let stand until cold; then add the following: 2 eggs, beaten light 1 tablespoon ginger 4¥% cups sifted flour 2 tablespoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon baking soda % tablespoon cloves 1 teaspoon salt Bake in a shallow greased pan or in muffin rings. SOFT GINGER BREAD, II: 1 cup molasses 2 cups pastry flour ¥% cup butter, in bits 1 teaspoon soda 2 eggs 1 teaspoon baking powder 4 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon cinnamon ¥% cup water 144 tablespoons ginger Sift the dry ingredients together several times. Slightly heat the molasses, stir in the butter until melted and: thoroughly incorporated, then remove from the fire. Beat the eggs until very light, and continue to beat while adding the water, molasses and flour mixture. Beat well, work quickly, and pour at, once into a greased cake tin. Bake 85 minutes in a moderate oven. * This recipe, published by Mrs. Davenport of the College of Agricul- ture, Food Oonservation, has the advantage of allowing the baking of small cakes as desired, and then setting aside the remaining cake batter for baking at some other time, as the mixture will keep several weeks. 564 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHAPTER XXVIII * CAKES RAISED BY YEAST SAVARIN: 1 pound sifted pastry flour 4 ounces sugar 144 cakes Fleischmann’s Yeast 5 eggs ¥% pound butter Lukewarm milk 1 teaspoon salt ‘Wash, then pat the butter between napkins until freed of moisture and supple. Sift the flour in a bowl. Dilute the yeast in a little lukewarm milk. Work the yeast, a cup of the sifted measured flour, and enough lukewarm milk to obtain a medium stiff ball of dough, which drop into lukewarm water to cover, and let stand until light and risen, taking care to keep the water at an even, lukewarm temperature. Cream the butter. Make a depression in center of the remaining flour, in which put the salt, butter, and eggs. Work all these ingredients thoroughly together, beating with both hands, while occasionally lifting the mixture; then add the risen sponge and, if needed, a little lukewarm milk to obtain a soft dough, adding the sugar last. Work and knead the dough until it breaks loose from the hands; it should then be smooth and quite soft, and will have been worked long enough. Let the covered dough rise until ‘light, in a moderately warm place. Toss it on a board sparingly dusted with flour, roll it down in a thick layer, and fold and pat. Have ready a buttered Savarin crown mold dusted with flour, and dredged with thinly shredded almonds. Mold in the dough to half fill the mold, cover, and set it aside to rise to top of mold’s height; then bake in a quick moderate oven. Let cake cool 15 minutes, then baste it with the following syrup: Boil, for 3 minutes, 44 cup of water with 34 cup of sugar. Remove, and add 2 tablespoons of Kirsch, rum, Mara- schino, or brandy. ~ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 565 BABA: ‘ Proceed same as for Savarin, except add to the dough %4 cup of picked-over currants, or half currants and half Sun Maid Seedless Raisins, just before setting the dough to rise in bowl; also, the mold in which it is baked is buttered and simply dusted with flour. After the cake has been allowed to cool 15 minutes, baste with the fol- lowing syrup: Boil for a minute 34 cup of sugar with 3 tablespoons of clear, strong tea. Remove from the - fire, and add 2 tablespoons of rum. ENGLISH BUNS, WITH OR WITHOUT CUR- _ RANTS: 1 pound sifted pastry flour 3 eggs \ 1 cake fresh Fleischmann’s Lukewarm milk to obtain a Yeast medium-stiff dough 344 ounces or 34 cup sugar 4% cup picked currants (op- 3% ounces or 34 cup butter tional) 1% teaspoon salt Proceed same as for Savarin, only the dough should not be so soft. The ingredients given will make 18 buns. If currants are used, add them to the dough after its first rising, roll the dough out thick, and fold and pat, then divide the dough into balls of even size, rolling them on the floured board. Arrange in a baking pan polished “with oil and set, covered, in a moderately warm place to. rise. Brush with a beaten egg and bake in a hot oven about 16 minutes. TEA CROWN, I: Work ¥% cup of picked currants into arisen dough as directed in preceding recipe, knead the dough, fold and pat, shape into a ball, flatten a little, and make an-open- ing in center large enough. to set in it an inverted bowl, at the same time rolling the dough in crown shape. Arrange in a baking pan polished with oil and set it, covered, in a moderately warm place to rise, to nearly twice its size. Wash with a beaten egg. At option dredge over some shredded blanched almonds; then, using a knife first dipped in flour, cut an inch deep into edge of the 566 THE FRENCH CHEF IN dough, leaving about 3 inches of space between the cuts. Bake in a rather hot, moderate oven, about 25 to 35 minutes, according to thickness. é TEA CROWN, II: 1% cups scalded milk 1 well beaten egg ¥Y cup sugar ¥, teaspoon salt % cake Fleischmann’s Yeast Y teaspoon flavoring 1 cup melted butter Pastry flour Dissolve the yeast in 14 cup of lukewarm milk., Let stand until the top is full of bubbles, then beat in a scant fourth-cup of sifted flour and a little sugar. Set in a moderately warm place to‘rise until light. Add the remaining lukewarm milk, and, beating vigorously with the hands, add sufficient sifted flour to obtain a rather soft dough; beat well, and set, covered, in a moderately warm place to rise until light. Add the remaining in- gredients, scrape sides of pan, and, while beating vigor- ously, ‘add enough sifted fiour to obtain a medium stiff smooth dough. Knead and work it thoroughly until it easily breaks off from hands, then set aside, covered, until risen. Roll it out thin on a board very sparingly dusted with, flour, brush with a little melted butter, and dredge over some very thinly chopped and mixed almonds and citron or candied orange peel. Roll as for Roly Poly. Join the moistened ends to form a crown, arrange in a baking pan shined with oil, and let rise. Shape and bake as directed in preceding recipe. PARISIAN BRIOCHE (Individual Head Brioche): 1 pound sifted pastry flour ¥ cup powdered sugar 1 cake fresh Fleischmann’s 7 or 8 eggs Yeast *% pound butter, washed, and Lukewarm milk ee patted between napkins 1 teaspoon salt till freed of moisture Rub the butter until creamy; work the dissolved yeast, a cup of the measured flour, and enough lukewarm milk to obtain a medium stiff ball of dough. Cover with 'a napkin and let stand in a moderately warm place until light. In the remaining flour make a depression, in which Se PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 567 put the salt, sugar, and 4 eggs. Using the hands, beat. the eggs gradually into the flour, incorporating as much air as possible. Continue beating, and add the remain- ing eggs, beating them gradually into the flour, the beating hands kept half open in cup shape so as to beat in as much air as possible. Beat vigorously, occasionally lifting the whole mass, at the same time beating with the hands. Work and beat it a long time or until the paste has attained sufficient consistency or body; then work in the butter, and work again until the paste breaks off loose from the hands. When it has lost its thickness, mix the risen sponge into it. Dust a bowl with flour, arrange in the dough, cover with a napkin, set to rise in a moderately warm place, and let stand about 4 hours or until it has risen to about double its size. Toss the dough.onto a slightly floured board, roll out thick, and fold and pat, then return it into floured bowl, cover with a napkin, and set ip a cold, dry place to harden, until next day. In summer it should be set in the refrigerator. Toss the hardened dough onto a board silghtly dusted with flour, roll out thick, and fold and pat. Handle it quickly and gently, as it softens as it becomes warm. Shape into even balls the sizeof a small apple, slightly flatten the tops, and on top center of each make with a sharp-pointed knife an opening in — , which press a small, long, pear-shaped ball the size of a large cherry, moistening the extremities so it will adhere. Arrange them in buttered brioche molds and cover. Set it in a moderately warm place to rise to top of mold. Brush top with a beaten egg, then, using sharp scissors, make on top three sharp incisions around the inserted ball. Bake in hot oven as for biscuits, at about 425° F., 14 to 16 minutes, according to size. Serve fresh or warm. One pound of risen Brioche Paste arranged in same shape as above in a Brioche mold will require 30 minutes’ baking in an oven not quite so hot as above. ) 568 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHAPTER XXIX FANCY FRENCH CAKES, MERINGUE, AND PETITS-FOURS CREAM PUFF CAKE: 1 eup milk (rather scant 1g teaspoon salt measure) 1 cup (rather generous meas 3% ounces or 2 cup butter ure) sifted flour 1 teaspoon sugar 4 eggs Turn the butter into water and boil until dissolved, .adding the sugar and salt; then, beating vigorously with a wire egg-beater, turn in all the flour. Stir bot. tom constantly with a wooden spatula, and cook about ¢ minutes over a moderate fire until it has become a smooth thick paste that leaves the sides of pan. Remove fron fire, turn, in a bowl, let stand 3 minutes, then, using a slit spoon, beat in 1 unbeaten egg. Beat vigorously for a minute, then add another egg, and beat anothei minute, and if the paste is sufficiently cooled, with the hands beat in the remaining eggs, one by one, beating thoroughly after each addition. The finished paste should hold its shape. Drop from tip of a tablespoon, on a baking-pan shinec with oil or on oiled paper'in pan, balls’ the size of ¢ large walnut, 2 or 3 inches apart from each other. Bak in a rather slow moderate oven from 30 to 40 minutes Do not remove before they are thoroughly cooked; test by trying one cake, and if it collapses when removec it requires more baking. When cold, fill with any om of the Cream Fillings. CREAM PUFF A LA CHANTILLY: Fill cold Cream Puff with sweetened whipped cream vanilla flavored. ECLAIRS: Have ready a Cream Puff Cake mixture. Using : pastry bag and circular tube of about % inch diameter N PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 569 force the mixture upon an oiled paper in a baking-pan in sections about 5 inches long and 34 inch wide. Bake as directed at ‘‘Cream Puff Cake,’’ in a rather slow, moderate oven until thoroughly cooked, or nearly 30 minutes. When cold, make an incision lengthwise on one side of each cake and fill with any of the Cream Fillings or Butter Cream Filling. Frost the top with an Eggless Boiled Chocolate Frosting, dipping tops of eclairs in the frosting while it is hot. 3 Or, fill eclairs with a Mocha Cream Filling or a But- ter Cream Filling flavored with coffee, and frost with a Coffee Frosting for Small Cakes. MOUSSELINE CAKE: 8 egg-yolks 4 ounces ee pastry flour 9¥% ounces sifted bar. or pulver- 4 ounces potato flour re-sifted ized sugar with the pastry flour A dash of powdered vanilla 1% cup or 4 ounces melted but- bean ter 1 -egg, beaten light 6 egg-whites, beaten stiff-dry Beat the yolks until thick and lemon-colored; con- tinue to beat while adding the beaten egg and, very slowly, the sugar. Beat until light and ftuffy, adding the vanilla. Continue beating while adding the flour and the melted butter. Beat well. Lastly, fold in the egg- whites. Arrange the batter in a round cake-pan, but- tered and dusted with flour. Bake in a moderate oven about 50 minutes or until done. Lacking powdered vanilla, use vanilla flavored sugar (see, ‘‘How to Flavor with Economy’’), or, add to fin- ished cake mixture 14 teaspoon of vanilla extract. GENOESE CAKE: 4 eggs 1 cup sifted pastry flour 4 ounces sifted pulverized sugar 2 ounces or 4 cup melted but- A dash of vanilla powder ter, hot In mixing this batter, use a copper or aluminum basin used for beating eggs. Put in the basin 2 eggs, the sugar, and the vanilla powder, and set on top of range’ on a very slow spot. Beat vigorously for a minute, add another egg, beat another minute, then add the remain- 570 THE FRENCH CHEF IN ing egg and beat vigorously until thoroughly warm, then take off the range and continue beating until cold. Put in the flour and mix it lightly. Add the butter, and if vanilla powder is not used add a few drops of vanilla extract. Bake in-layers in oiled flat tin cake molds, in a quick moderate oven 12 minutes or until done, or, a thick cake 40: minutes in a moderate oven, and cut into layers with a sharp thin knife. SAVOY CAKE: Proceed as directed at ‘‘Sponge Cake, I.’’ MOCHA CAKE: Bake as directed at recipe, either a Savoy, Genoese, or Sponge Cake I. When cold, split the cake, and spread between the layers and over top layer a Mocha Cream Filling or with this filling make a Butter Cream Filling as directed at that recipe. Or, use a Mocha Foamy Cream Filling. THE GODS’ FOOD CAKE: 4 ounces or % cup butter 5 eggs = 934 ounces or 1} cups of finest 1 tablespoon curacao or granulated sugar ‘orange blossom water 1 cup or 8 ounces very thinly 23¢ ounces or 5% eup sifted chopped blanched almonds pastry flour Grated rind of an orange Cream the butter, continue beating, and slowly add the sugar. Beat until very creamy. Add the eggs one at a time and beat vigorously 4 minutes after each addi- tion. When light and fluffy, beating continuously, add the rind and the almonds, then the flavoring and the flour. Beat well. Butter a round cake-pan, place at bottom a sheet of buttered paper, and dust with flour, then arrange the mixture in the pan with a slight de- pression in center, and bake in a moderate oven 40 minutes. Glaze and frost the cake as directed at ‘‘ French Frosting,’’ using curacao or orange juice as flavoring. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 571 PISTACHIO AND ALMOND CAKE: 4 ounces or 14 cup melted but- ter 4 ounces very thinly chopped 144 cups or 93£ ounces finest blanched almonds granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 5 eggs ~% cup or 23 ounces sifted + ounces very thinly chopped pastry flour pistachioes Same process as preceding recipe. Glaze cake as di- rected, with a French Frosting flavored with vanilla, then dredge over some chopped almonds and pistachioes. ST. HONORE: | Roll out some Sugar Paste or Lining Paste II 14 inch thick, cut out a circle of about 8 inches in diameter, and arrange in a baking-pan polished with oil. Wet the border near edge, then, using a pastry bag and a tube of about 14 inch in diameter, force around the border a ring of Cream Puff Cake. mixture, having the ring 14 inch from border. Force upon another oiled baking-pan some more Cream Puff Cake paste, to obtain about 14 small cakes. Brush the border and the small cakes with a beaten egg, and bake in a rather slow, moderate oven. the ringed cake about 40 minutes and the small ones about 35 minutes or until done. When done remove the-ringed cake on a dish. Have ready a hot sugar syrup cooked as directed at ‘‘ Boiling of Sugar to the Crack.’’ Dip the sides of the small cakes one by one in the hot syrup, and arrange them in crowr shape upon the border so they adhere both to the border and to each other. Prepare a Cream Filling or a Buttei Cream Filling as directed at recipe, gently fold in twc egg-whites beaten to a stiff-dry froth, arrange the filling in middle of cake, and set on each small cake a candiec cherry. If desired, substitute for the above cream filling: any one of the Chocolate or Mocha Fillings.. CORNET A LA CREME: Roll out some chilled Puff Paste to 14 inch thickness and cut it into strips 24 inch wide and 10 inches long Mold each strip into spiral shape around and on a specia. 572 THE FRENCH CHEF IN cornet mold. Brush top only with a beaten egg without touching the side, and dredge with some finely chopped almonds and granulated sugar; chill. Bake in a hot oven about 15 or 20 minutes, or until crust is done, then carefully remove the mold. Fill, when cold, with a whipped cream sweetened and flavored to the taste, or— - with a Cream Filling prepared as in preceding recipe. PITHIVIER CAKE: Roll ont chilled Puff Paste 4% of an inch thick, eut out 2 circles to fit into 2 round tins of same diameter; or cut into small rectangular strips 4 inches long and 214 inches wide. Arrange in a baking-pan, and chill 20 minutes; then bake in a hot oven as directed at ‘‘ How to Bake Pastry,’’ until done, about 14 minutes. Spread between strips, and put together in pairs, a Cream Fill- ing or a Foamy Cream Filling in which you have mixed some very thinly chopped almonds. To give a sparkling appearance, brush the top with a hot melted Apricot or Currant Jelly; or frost with a Confectioners’ Frosting. FLAN MERINGUE: Line a mocha mold with Lining Paste II, sweetened with a little sugar as there directed; prick the bottom, and fill center with an oiled blank paper holding beans or cornmeal. Bake about 18 minutes, remove beans and bag, and unmold. Arrange in mold any one of the Cream Fillings, cold, and spread upon and ornament top with an Italian Ornamental, Meringue. (see, ‘‘Frosting’’). Bake in a slow oven until a crust has been formed, without allowing it to color in the least. Cool, and spread over @ little melted Apricot or Currant Jelly. THE “HAWAIIAN” (Petits-Fours) : ' s 2 egg-whites 3% ounces blanched almonds, 1% teaspoon salt. very thinly chopped or 3% ounces sifted powdered powdered sugar S Mix the sugar and almonds together. Beat the egg- whites with the salt added to a dry-stiff froth that will PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES _ 5738 bear an egg. Using, a wooden spoon, gently mix in the almond-sugar mixture. Upon baking-pan polished with oil and dusted, with flour, drop from tip of a spoon in small round flat cakes; dredge over them some mixed powdered sugar and chopped almonds, and bake in a ' quick moderate oven about 6 minutes. Then, using a flexible spatula, detach the cakes from the pan, and cool. When cold, decorate center of top of each cake by forcing through a pastry bag and medium round tube a Foamy Cream Filling flavored with pineapple extract. Set on top center a candied cherry, and arrange around it twc thin slices of pineapple cut into crescent shape, and twc slices of angelica cut into same shape. FOAMY PETITS-FOURS: Cream 324 ounces or 4% cup of butter. Continue to beat, and add gradually 4 ounces of-bar pulverized sugar, vanilla flavored (see, ‘‘How to Flavor with Economy’’). Beat till light and creamy. Continue to beat, and add 14 cup of grilled hazelnuts, pounded to a powder. Still beating, add first, 2 beaten egg-yolks, then, one at the time, 2 whole eggs, medium sized. Beat 5 minutes, then add and mix in 114 cups of sifted flour. Pour intc small cylindrical timbale molds, or gem pan, buttered and dusted with flour, until 24 full, and bake 18 or 20 minutes in a rather quick oven or till done.. When cool, pick each cake with a small pointed knife and roll the side only in a warm Boiled Chocolate Frosting; then gently roll in chopped: almonds. When dry, take a round -eutter smaller than top of cake and gently force the cutter into cake to about half of its height, then remove center to form a cup., Moisten inside with a ‘‘30° Sugai Syrup’’ flavored with rum, or, lacking this, use Pistachic Extract. Fill each cake with a Foamy Cream Filling in dome shape-above border, and decorate dome with pistachio nuts cut in half lengthwise. SUGAR PASTE: 8 ounces or 2 cups sifted pastry 4 ounces sifted bar sugar, pow- flour . dered 4 ounces or % cup best butter _2 eggs 374 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Sift the flour in-a bowl. In a depression in center put in the butter, sugar, and eggs, work and knead these together thoroughly to obtain a stiff dough, wrap in a cloth, and let stand.in a cold dry place 2 hours. ‘ SUGAR PASTE PETITS-FOURS: Roll out to 14 inch thick some Sugar Paste made as in preceding recipe, line some small fancy cake tins with it, and bake in a moderate oven 14 to 15 minutes. Fill with fruit jelly or with canned fruits drained of their juice, or with any one of the Cream Fillings, candied fruits, ete. Or, cover with whipped cream sweetened and flavored to suit the taste. Or with a Meringue, dusting with powdered sugar, and bake in a slack oven until very slightly amber-colored. ALMOND DRY PETITS-FOURS: 8 ounces blanched almonds, perfectly dry and coarsely chopped 8 ounces of sifted powdered sugar, vanilla flavored 4 egg-whites If lacking the vanilla-flavored sugar (see ‘‘How to Flavor with Economy’’), use a teaspoon of grated rind of lemon or orange, or add_a tablespoon of powdered cocoa or 4 teaspoon of powdered cinnamon. While pounding the almonds in a mortar, to a fine paste, add little by little the unbeaten egg-whites; then gradually add the sugar. Color to suit the fancy. Put into tartlet tins, oiled and dusted with flour, and bake in a moderate oven about 20 minutes. LANGUE DE CHAT: 4 ounces butter or % cup thick 4 egg-whites, beaten stiff-dry cream 4 ounces or 1 cup sifted pastry 4 ounces sifted fine bar sugar . flour 1% teaspoon vanilla, or better, vanilla flavored sugar Cream the butter, continue to beat, and add the sugar very slowly. Beat till very creamy and light. Beat in the flour, and lastly, fold in the egg-whites. With a pastry bag and small tube, force out upon a buttered PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 575 pan dusted with flour some small cakes the shape and size of small lady fingers. Bake in a rather good, moder- ate oven about 6 minutes. Remove from pan as soon as baked, as they are very fragile and fondant like. — ENGLISH TEA PETITS-FOURS: .8 ounces or 2 cups sifted 934 ounces sifted powdered pastry flour sugar 6% ounces butter ; Grated rind of half a lemon 4 ounces blanched almonds, 2 eggs ; thinly chopped : Work all the ingredients together, as directed at ‘‘Sugar Paste.’’ Let stand in a cold. place 2 hours. Divide the paste into small oval balls the size of small biscuits, and with a small rolling-pin flatten top of each a little in the center. Arrange in buttered baking-pan, brush with a beaten egg, and with a pointed knife make on center of top of each an incision lengthwise. Bake in a hot oven as for biscuit. They will spread in baking. NEAPOLITAN CAKE: : 8 ounces or 2 cups sifted 2 eggs « pastry flour 4 ounces blanched almonds, 45% ounces sifted bar powdered thinly chopped sugar 3 bitter almonds, thinly chopped 456 ounces best butter = Make a depression in the flour, and put in the other ingredients; work and knead thoroughly to obtain a stiff dough. Wrap in a napkin and let stand 2 hours in a cold, dry place. Roll out the paste to 46 inch thick; then, using a plain round cutter of 5 or 6 inches in diameter, cut out circles. Reserve 2 whole circles, and with a smaller round cutter of about 2 or 3 inches in diameter, cut out center of remaining circles. Arrange _all the circles in a pan polished with oil and dusted with flour, and bake about 13 minutes in a rather moderate oven. When cooled, brush top of a whole circle with hot melted Apricot Jelly, then put all the ring-circles to- gether over the first whole circle, and spread between them hot Apricot Jelly. Put the remaining whole circle on the top, then, using a sharp knife, trim the edge into { 576 THE FRENCH CHEF IN an even shape and brush all over with melted Apricot Jelly. When dry, glaze with a French Frosting flavored with vanilla, and ornament top with fancy cut pieces of angelica and candied fruits. With the remaining dough cookies can be made. MERINGUE: When making a meringue without boiling sugar it is desirable to use sifted icing sugar or pure powdered sugar-such as bar sugar, although other sifted fine sugar may do. As the addition of any liquid is undesirable in these mixtures, it is best to use a sugar flavored with vanilla or with dried rind of a lemon or orange. (See “How to Flavor with Economy.’’) Beat the egg-whites as directed at ‘‘To Beat Egg- whites to a Stiff-dry Froth,’’ then, using a good rounded tablespoon of sifted powdered sugar to each egg-white, continue to beat the eggs with a wire egg-beater while adding gradually all the sugar, or beat in say 34 of the sugar, then gently mix in the remaining sugar. Spread upon a partly cooled mixture, and ornament it if de- sired. Dredge over some powdered sugar and bake in a slack oven to a delicate amber color. For Boiled Sugar Meringue, see ‘‘Italian, or Orna- mental Meringue.’’ KISSES WITH BOILED SUGAR: 664 ounces or a scant % cup , A piece of vanilla or the of sugar rind of 14 lemon or orange ¥Y cup water 3 egg-whites, beaten very stiff Add the bean or rind to the water and sugar and boil until it threads or until thick and sticky when tried on a saucer. Then at once remove bean or rind and pour boiling hot over the egg-whites and beat until cooled, placing bowl in cold water. Shape small cakes with a spoon or pastry bag and fancy tube on a pan polished with oil and dusted with flour. Let stand 25 minutes to dry, then bake-in nearly cold oven from 50 to 60 minutes to dry and form a crust. Remove and let stand until cool. Warm them_a little before detaching them. \ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 577 KISSES WITH DRY SUGAR: “For 3 egg-whites use 34 cup of finest granulated sugar or a scant cup of sifted powdered sugar. To the egg-whites in a beating bowl add a split piece of vanilla bean and set it 4 hours in the refrigerator. Remove the bean, add to the eggs a good dash of salt and beat them stiff. Continue to beat, add gradually 24 of the sugar, and beat until paste will hold its shape, then fold in the remaining sugar. With a pastry bag and tube shape balls of the desired size onto strips of wet blank paper arranged on a board. Bake about 50 minutes in a nearly cold oven, to form a crust. When they are to be filled with a Whipped Cream press in the bottoms, remove the soft center, and dry in the oven. COFFEE KISSES: Boil 14 cup of strong clear coffee and 1}¢ cups or 93 ounces of sugar until a little of it, tried in cold water, can be rolled between the fingers into a soft ball. Pour it hot onto 3 egg-whites beaten very stiff, beating them ; then with a wooden spatula gently stir in a level table- spoon of sifted powdered sugar. Shape and bake as other Kisses above. Or, proceed as directed at Kisses with boiled sugar, except substitute for the water an equal amount of strong clear coffee and leave out the flavoring: CHOCOLATE PETITS-FOURS: 3 egg-whites, beaten very stiff 1 -eup chopped walnuts, re- % eup sifted powdered sugar serving some nice half- 4é cup powdered unsweetened walnuts ‘chocolate re-sifted with ¥% teaspoon vanilla extract the sugar Mix the sugar, chocolate, and chopped nuts thor- oughly; then gently mix into the beaten egg-whites. Upon a baking-pan polished with oil and dusted with flour drop from tip of a tablespoon some balls the size of a walnut. Insert on each one a reserved half-walnut, and bake in a slow oven about 25 minutes. When cold, pack in a can, closely covered. 19 578 THE FRENCH CHEF IN ALMONDS BLANCHED, and Preparation for Mac- aroons: Turn any amount of shelled almonds into boiling water to cover. Before it bubbles, remove from the fire, and let stand 5 minutes. Drain. Remove skins, arrange the almonds on a blank paper, and dry in the warmer. The preparation should be done the day before needed. These almonds may be kept a long time in a can closely covered in a dry place. To make macaroons put through the nut grinder. ALMOND MACAROONS: 5 ounces blanched almonds 1 cup powdered sugar 2 egg-whites Use vanilla flavored sugar (see ‘‘How to Flavor with Economy’’). The addition of liquid is not desirable in this mixture. Force the almonds through the nut grinder, then pound in a mortar, not too fine, while adding the egg-whites a little at a time, pounding about ¥g minute after each addition of egg; then, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, add the sugar very gradually. Work it thoroughly, using just enough sifted sugar to obtain a paste that may be rolled in balls the size of a small walnut. Arrange 2 inches apart in a baking-pan polished with oil and dusted with flour, and bake in a moderate oven about 15 minutes. These keep a long time in a can if closely covered. CHOCOLATE MACAROONS: Proceed as directed in preceding recipe. Add to mixture 2 tablespoons of cocoa and 14 teaspoon of vanilla extract; or, use 24 ounce grated Baker’s Chocolate melted over hot water in which stir 14 teaspoon of vanilla extract. MACAROONS A L’ORANGE: 4 ounces blanched almonds Grated rind of an orange 45 ounces sifted powdered 4 egg-whites sugar A dash of salt ‘4é ounces or 14 cup sifted flour A drop of orange extract PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 579 Force the almonds through the nut grinder. Sift the flour with the sugar, and add and mix in thoroughly the almonds and rind. Add salt to the egg-whites, and beat them to a stiff-dry froth; then, using a small _wooden spatula, geftly mix in the first mixture. Drop from a teaspoon balls the size of a small oval walnut onto oiled paper, and bake in a rather slow, moderate oven “nearly 20 minutes. MACAROONS A LA CREME FONDANTE: 3% ounces blanched almonds % cup sifted pastry flour, ac- 6% ounces sifted powdered curately measured sugar 6 to 6% egg-whites é Sift the flour with the sugar. Force the almonds through the nut grinder into a bowl, and, while adding 2 eggs at a time, pound 14 minute and then beat vigor- ously 2 minutes with a slit spoon. Continue beating while slowly adding the sifted mixture to obtain a soft paste. Use vanilla flavored sugar; or, lacking this, add only a few drops of vanilla extract. From the tip of a tablespoon shape small oval cakes upon a pan polished with oil and dusted with flour, and bake in a quick moderate oven. When done let the cakes cool a minute, then with a flexible spatula detach them from pan, and spread upon the flat side detached from pan the fol- lowing Chocolate Cream and put them in pairs: Put 1 ounce of grated Baker’s Chocolate, 14 cup (scant) of sugar, and 2 tablespoons of thick cream in a small sauce- pan over the fire, and stir the bottom constantly with a wooden spoon until it forms a thick creamy mixture. If vanilla flavored sugar has not been used, add a few drops of vanilla extract. WAFERS: 6 ounces blanched almonds 6 ounces sifted powdered sugar 114 cups or 6 ounces sifted pas- 3% ounces or a seant 1% eup of ’ try flour butter softened but not 2 or 3 egg-whites 580 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Use-vanilla flavored sugar (see ‘‘How to Flavor with Economy’’). Force almonds through a nut grinder, then pound them in a mortar while gradually adding the eggs, then work in the sugar. Make a depression in the flour and in it put the butter and the sugar-almond mixture, mix thoroughly, working and kneading it to a dough that will hold together. Roll out.in a very thin sheet, and using the back of a silver knife, mark small squares. Then cut into rectangles 114 inches wide and 4 inches long. Using a flexible spatula, carefully lift and arrange upon a baking-pan polished with oil and dusted with flour, brush top with a beaten egg-yolk, and bake in a rather quick moderate oven nearly 8 minutes or until golden-browned and crisp. Keep in a can closely covered. Serve with tea. ; PETITS BEURRE: Prepare a Sugar Paste as directed at recipe. Roll it out thin, then, using a fluted cutter about 114 inches in diameter, cut out small cakes. Arrange in a baking-pan polished with oil and dusted with flour, and bake in a moderate oven about 7 minutes or until crisp and very slightly amber-colored. Keep in a can, closely covered. TOT-FAIT, FOR TEA: Work together 2 well-beaten eggs, 14 teaspoon of salt, and sufficient sifted flour to obtain a stiff, thoroughly kneaded dough. Let rest a few minutes, roll out thin, arrange on a buttered baking-pan, and dredge over 2 level tablespoons of sugar mixed with 14 teaspoon of cin- namon, then dot top with many very small bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven to a crisp golden color. Cut into squares and serve cold with tea. ~ TEA CAKES: 1 pound sifted pastry flour 14 eup or 144 ounces butter 1% teaspoon each, salt and bak- softened but not melted ing soda 1% teaspoon vanilla 614 ounces sugar 36 cup milk ~ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 581 N Make a depression in flour in which put the sugar, butter, vanilla, and milk, and work and knead all to- gether to obtain a stiff dough. Roll out, fold in four, and pat; repeat the rolling, folding, and patting twice; then let rest 1 hour, roll out thin, roll over it a fancy rolling pin, then, using a fluted cutter 14% inches in diameter, cut out small cakes. Arrange in a baking- -pan polished with oil and dusted with flour, and bake in a moderate oven about 8 minutes. Keep in a can, closely covered. MASSEPAINS: 4 ounces blanched almonds 2 egg-whites or 3 pullet egg- Y eup water whites 8 ounces confectioner’s sugar 1% teaspoon vanilla extract Use vanilla flavored sugar (see ‘‘How to Flavor with Eeconomy’’), or, lacking this, add to water 14 vanilla bean, or include as a part of the liquid 1 teaspoon of vanilla. Chop the almonds fine, and, while pounding them in a mortar, add the water a little at a time. While stir- ring with: a wooden spoon, slowly add the sugar, then turn it into a saucepan set over a very slow fire to dry a little; return the mixture to the bowl, and, beating with a slit spoon, add the egg-whites very gradually and beat until it forms a medium soft paste. Upon an oiled bak- ing-pan dusted with flour, shape small cakes of even size 2 inches apart. Place in the warmer and let dry for 3 or 4 hours, then bake in a quick moderate oven, about 10 to 12 minutes. Keep in a can, closely covered. CHOCOLATE MASSEPAINS: To a mixture made as in preceding recipe, add 1 ounce of grated Baker’s Chocolate-melted over hot water. These burn easily and their baking should be care- fully watched. It is best to have the oven not quite so hot as directed in preceding recipe. FONDANT CAKES: 8 ounces or 2 cups sifted pastry 314 ounces bar powdered sugar flour or finest granulated 4 ounces or % cup best butter 2 egg-yolks and 1 whole egg ‘ ¥Y, teaspoon vanilla extract 582 THE FRENCH CHEF IN With the above ingredients make a stiff paste as di- rected at ‘‘Sugar Paste,’’ and let stand in a cold dry place, covered for 2 hours. Roll out to thickness of a silver dollar and cut into circles about 144 inches in diameter, or cut in: triangles, hearts, rectangles, ete. Lightly roll these in granulated sugar and arrange in a baking-pan polished with oil, then bake in a rather slow, moderate oven until crisp. These should bake without melting the sugar. Will keep a long time in a can, closely covered. ANGELICA STICKS: To a mixture made as directed in preceding recipe, add some thinly chopped angelica. Roll it out thin as above, and cut into strips 3 inches long and 1 inch wide. Bake in a moderate oven until crisp and amber-colored. As a variation, substitute for the angelica some can- died orange peel or citron. Will keep a long time in a can, closely covered. QUEEN DROPS: 1 cup or 8 ounces finest gran- 5 eggs, beaten light ulated sugar ¥4 cup picked currants dusted 1 cup or 8 ounces butter with flour Grated rind of a lemon or % cups or 934 ounces sifted teaspoon vanilla extract pastry flour Rub butter until creamy; continue beating, and slowly add the sugar. Beat until light and creamy, add the eggs one at a time, and beat vigorously after each addition until light, then add the lemon-rind, flour, and currants. Beat well. Drop small cakes from the tip of a tablespoon onto a baking pan polished with oil. Bake in a quick, moderate oven. CHOCOLATE ROCK-PEAK: 2 ounces (scant) Baker’s 8 ounces blanched almonds Chocolate shredded lengthwise 2%, cup or 514 ounces sugar 3 egg-whites Melt the chocolate in a bowl over hot water. Bake the almonds until just heated. To the hot chocolate add the sugar gradually, beating, and keeping the bowl in 2 7 PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 583 hot water. \Continue beating, add the eggs one at a time, and lastly, add the hot almonds. ‘Drop the hot cake batter from a tablespoon, in. little piles on a baking-pan polished with oil. Cool about an hour, then-bake in a moderate oven. Keep in a can, closely covered. ORANGE CAKES FOR TEA: 1 eup butter 1 tablespoon orange extract 2 eups sugar 21% eups pastry flour 3 eggs, well beaten % teaspoon baking soda Sift the flour with the soda. Cream the butter, con- tinue to beat, slowly adding the sugar, and beating till - light. Beat in the eggs, ‘add the flavoring, and thoroughly work in the flour mixture. Use enough flour to obtain a medium stiff smooth dough. Roll out, fold and pat, then set it covered 2 hours in a cold dry place. Roll out thin, shape small cakes with fluted cutter. Bake 9 minutes in a moderate oven. Will keep a long time in a can closely covered. :

BISCUIT, ITI: Same as preceding, only melt the shortening and add. it at the same time as the milk. -° STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE: 2 | cups sifted flour 1 teaspoon sugar 3 4 level teaspoons baking pow- 2 ounces or %4 cup butter ‘der 34 cup milk, or half water ~ ¥ teaspoon salt 612 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Sift the dry ingredients together, and with the mix- ture and the other ingredients, proceed as directed at “Biscuit I.’’ Pat lightly and divide the dough into even halves: Pat and roll down to about % inch thick, sheets of even size and shape. Arrange in an oiled tin of same size, and bake in a hot oven about 12 minutes. Spread between layers and over cake, about 114 cups of hulled strawberries, with powdered sugar to suit taste. First dredge the sugar over the berries, set them in the warmer awhile, arid crush the berries. an Whipped cream sweetened to taste may be spread over. the berries, or, leaving out the whipped cream, serve the. cake with a Marshmallow Sauce for Pudding. Or, again, substitute for the berries a Strawberry Whip. Other Shortcakes: Following the directions given in the preceding recipe, a variety of shorteakes may be -made by using fresh or canned berries, apricots, pine- apple, or sliced oranges, bananas, etc. If canned fruits are used, serve the shortcake with a sauce made of the drained fruit liquor thickened with a little cornstarch diluted with a little cold water, or with arrowroot; then beat into the finished sauce a few small bits of butter. CINNAMON BISCUIT: 1% eups flour 14 teaspoon cinnamon 3 level teaspoons baking ¥ cup currants powder 2 tablespoons butter, or part Ys teaspoon salt lard 2 tablespoons sugar ¥Y% eup milk Sift the dry ingredients together, work in the shorten- ing with the tips of the fingers, add the currants, and, stirring with a silver knife, gradually add the milk. Proceed as for ‘‘Biscuits.’’ ROLLED RAISIN BISCUIT: Leaving out the currants, make a paste as directed in the preceding recipe. Roll out into a rectangle, % of an inch thick. Arrange over this about 14 cup seeded raisins, dredge with 1 tablespoon of sugar, mixed with PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 613 a dash of cinnamon, and dot with many very, small bits of butter. Starting with the long side of the rectangle, roll it, as for ‘‘Roly Poly,’’ lightly pat to press in shape, then cut across into pieces 114 inches thick. Arrange in a greased pan 1 inch apart, brush with melted butter, -and bake in a hot oven about 13 minutes. i x a 614 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHAPTER XXXII / CONFECTIONS TEsts oF THE Borne Sugar, AND Dreerees or Heat— Borne Suecar ror Conrections—Fonpant— Bolb- Ing SuGAR TO THE ‘‘CRACK’’ or ‘‘CRacKLING’’ PoIntT —SPINNING SuGaR AND SHAPING EGRETS FoR GaR- NISHING IcE Cream, Cakes, Nougats, ETC.—REcIPES For Nougats—CaRAMELS—PINocHE, FupGE, ETC. — Dripping IN CHOCOLATE AND IN Fonpant—Mo- LASSES Canpy, ButTTercups, Bar CANDY, AND PRALINES, ETC.—CANDIED Fruits anp Fruits Con- FITS—SuGaR Syrups aND Use oF THE SYRUP HYDROMETER. OMMERCIAL sugar is extracted from sugar cane, beets, and the maple sugar tree. These products are manufactured into and come on the market in the form of brown, cube, granulated, loaf, confectioners’, pow- dered, or bar sugar, syrup or molasses, and maple sugar or maple syrup. Of the different brands of commercial glucose, which is a mixture of grape sugar, maltose and dextrins, we will only mention the confectioners’ glucose which will be called for in this book. : Degrees of Boiling Sugar There are eleven tests of boiling sugar, of which we will only mention seven, as follows: (1) Small Thread, 215° F. Press a little of the boiled syrup between the thumb and finger, then spread the fingers apart and draw a thread that will break at once‘and return to the drop. (2) Large Thread, 217° F. Same tests as preceding, only the thread will draw out longer. (3) Small Ball, 238° F. Dip in cold water a little of the boiled sugar taken up on the’ point of a wooden stick. Roll between the fingers into a soft ball. ° » PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES "615 (4) Large Ball, 248° F. The same test as preced- ing, but producing a hard ball. (5) Small Crack, 290° F. Dip a little of the sugar in cold water. Tested between the teeth, it will break and stick, and ‘‘erackle.’’ (6) Crack> 310° F. Tested as above between the teeth the sugar will yield with a crackling sound =e will not stick. _ (7) Caramel, 350° F. Boil the sugar a little fee than to the “crackling” point, when it will give out a slight caramel odor. As soon as the boiling sugar has assumed a golden-brown color, place the pan in a basin containing cdld water, to stop: the boiling and prevent nOEEInES Sugar begins to burn at 301° F.- Boiling Sugar for Confections Always select a clear, dry: day for boiling sugar for confections, as on damp ‘days or in a damp atmosphere there will be steam in the kitchen, and this must be avoided. Boiling sugar has a strong tendency to return to the granulated stage, and this must be ‘guarded: against. The addition of a very little cream of -tartar, or acetic acid in the form of lemon juice, will render the boiling sugar less liable to granulate, but if it dots begin to granulate, add at once a little water and boil as before. To boil the sugar, put in a copper or graniteware saucepan say one cup of water and set over the fire. Pour in a pound of sugar, stir until dissolved, bring to a boil, and boil to the’ desired degree, adding a few drops of lemon juice. If grains form on the side of pan, wipe them away with a wet cloth wrung out in its own water, else they will mix with the boiling sugar, which will granulate the whole mass. Watch the boiling sugar carefully, and as soon as the desired degree is obtained, place the bottom of pan at once into cold water. When beginning to boil, it is best to put the sugar over a quick fire; but as soon as it reaches the ‘‘Thread’’ stage, remove to ‘a slower fire, as the different stages will then follow each other very ’ quickly. If the sugar has been boiled too long, add a little water and boil as before. 616 THE FRENCH CHEF IN FONDANT: 1 pound sugar 2 drops lemon juice or a dash 24 cup water of cream of, tartar Boil the sugar as directed above. As soon as large bubbles appear on top, it is nearing the ‘‘Soft Ball’’ stage. Watch carefully and test as directed until a little of it dropped into cold water may be rolled be- tween the moistened fingers into a soft’ ball just thick enough to retain its shape. Then turn at once onto a slightly oiled marble slab or large platter. Let stand two minutes, and before the edge begins to harden, work with a wooden spatula, lengthwise, folding the sugar onto center, and, using a steel scraper, gather the edges onto the middle while still soft, as these, when they get hard, must be worked together separately. Work the fondant until white and creamy, and as soon as it begins to crumb, work it with the hands until smooth. Gather and arrange in a bowl, and cover with an oiled paper. To Use Fondant for icing small cakes, take as much Fondant as you need, put it in a small saucepan, and melt over hot water. If too thick soften it with a little 80° Sugar Syrup. Color and flavor the Fondant to harmonize with the cake. Take the small cakes on a carv- ing-fork and dip them in Fondant to about five-sixths of their height, then slip the unfrosted part of the cake onto board. These cakes may be ornamented with nuts, candied fruit or violets, angelica, ete. Large cakes may be cut into all kinds of shapes and frosted in the same manner. Boiling Sugar to the “Crack” or “Crackling” Point For confections, use confectioners’ sugar. Select a dry day and avoid damp atmosphere caused by steam. Put 4 cup of water in a graniteware saucepan over the fire. Turn in 114 cups of granulated sugar, stir until dissolved, add 2 drops of lemon juice or a dash of cream of tartar, and boil undisturbed to 310°, or the ‘‘Crack- ling’’ stage, Carefully wipe off with a ‘wet cloth wrung out in its own water any grains forming on the side of pan. To test the boiling sugar, have at hand a small PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 617 T stick and a bowl of cold water, and with the stick drop a little of the sugar into the cold water. If it has been boiled to the right degree, it will give a crisp, crackling sound, and when tested between the teeth it will break readily and will not stick. At once stop the boiling by dipping the saucepan in a little cold water, as otherwise the boiling sugar will quickly advance to a higher degree, which must be avoided. Take care, when boiling sugar to the ‘‘Crackle,’’ to avoid any burnt parts sticking to the bottom of the pan. Spinning Sugar and Shaping Egrets for Garnishing Ice Cream, Cakes, Nougats, etc. Boil some confectioners’ sugar to the ‘‘Crackling’’ point as directed in preceding article, and as soon as the sugar has reached the desired degree, stop its cooking by dipping the saucepan in cold water. Take out of a- fish boiler the loose false bottom with large holes, invert it, set in the holes some wooden spoons or sticks, lightly dip the edge of a bushy wire egg-beater into the slightly cooled sugar, then shake the sugar back and forth over the sticks until you have obtained as much spun sugar as needed, carefully removing and shaping this as soon as formed. : To Shape Egrets, arrange the spun sugar on a slab and cut into even lengths; gather and shape as a bouquet, or, rather, as Egrets. These are fastened on molded Nougat, Iced Bride or Wedding Cake, with the ‘same uncooled sugar that has been used. Occasionally this sugar is shaped like a nest, or it may be piled on a dish. Spun sugar may be colored by adding to the boiling sugar the desired coloring. Recipes for Nougats FRENCH NOUGAT-—(Molded in Basket Shape or Horn of Plenty): Shred a pound of blanched almonds, and heat in a slow oven. Put over the fire in a bright frying-pan 1 pound of confectioners’ sugar and stir and cook until 618 THE FRENCH GHEF IN thoroughly melted, adding a tablespoon of lemon juice, then stir in the hot almonds. Pour on a slightly oiled: marble and roll down with a rolling-pin, then line the mold, with a whole lemon pressing the still hot sugar- almond sheet of paste against the side of the mold in order that it may form into the mold’s shape. When thoroughly cooled, unmold on a dish. The mold used may be a basket or horn-of-plenty, If the nougat gets too cold spread it on a pan and set it a wail in a hot oven. The finished article may be filled ‘with ennaindl fruits or bonbons, or ornamented with an Egret-as in preceding article. NOUGAT: Pour a boiling almond-sugar mixture, as directed in -preceding article, onto a marble slab, slightly oiled. Using a confectioners’ scraper, fold the spreading paste, keeping it constantly in motion until nearly cooled, and rolling it into the shape of a round stick 24 inch thick, When cooled, snap with a butcher knife into pieces 1 inch long. If desired, dip in chocolate as directed at “Dipping in Chocolate.”’ ‘ Caramels CHOCOLATE CARAMEL (Soft): 1 pound sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 1% cups cream 1 tablespoon honey or glucose 3 ounces unsweetened choc- olate, grated = Put sugar, cream, and chocolate in a saucepan over a slow fire, stir and cook until thoroughly melted, strain through a fine sieve into a saucepan, add the 'vanilla and honey, then cook to the ‘‘Crackling’’ point, or until a little of it tried in cold water can be rolled into a hard ball. To avoid scorching, it may be best to gently stir bottom with a wooden spatula, then wipe sides of pan as needed. Pour mixture about 14 inch thick onto an oiled square pan placed on a marble; let it cool a little, then cut part way through in about inch squares, using a sharp knife brushed with oil. When cold and hard, PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 619 x wipe the caramel with silk paper to remove the oil. Break apart and wrap in white wax paper. VANILLA .CARAMEL A LA CREME: i 1 pound sugar % vanilla bean, or 1 teaspoon 1 cup cream vanilla extract Cook sugar, cream, and vanilla bean over a slow fire until sugar is dissolved. Carefully cook over a quicker fire, gently ‘and occasionally stirring the bottom with a wooden spatula to avoid scorching, and wipe sides of pan as’ needed, while cooking to the ‘‘Crackling’’ point, when a little of it tried between the teeth will crack sharply and will not stick. Pour in a layer 1% inch thick into a slightly oiled square pan placed upon a marble, and proceed as directed in the preceding recipe. Wrap in wax paper. COFFEE CARAMEL: 1 pound sugar _ % eup very strong coffee 1 cup cream ; Same process as in recipe above, except, leaving out the vanilla, add the coffee to the cooking mixture. As soon as it nears the ‘‘Crackling’’ stage, then boil it again to the ‘‘Crackle,’’ finishing as directed above. CARAMEL TRANSPARENT: Put % cup of water in a saucepan over the fire, and pour in 1 pound of sugar. Carefully stir until sugar is dissolved, add a few drops of lemon juice or a dash of cream of tartar, and boil undisturbed to the ‘‘Small Crack,’’ tested as directed at ‘‘Tests of Boiling Sugar.’’ Add a tablespoon of vanilla or orange blossom water, in which a little carmine coloring has been dissolved, and finish boiling the sugar to the ‘‘Crackling’’ point as directed. During the cooking, wipe the sides of pan as needed. As soon as done, pour into a slightly-oiled square tin as directed at ‘‘Chocolate Caramel (Soft),’’ and finish as there directed. $ 1 > 620 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Pinoche, Fudge, etc. PINOCHE: 1 cup granulated sugar 1% teaspoons vanilla extract 1 cup brown sugar 1 eup walnuts or pecans %cup thin cream Add the cream to the sugar, stir until sugar is dis- solved, and cook to the ‘‘Soft Ball’’; then add the vanilla and nuts, and beat until creamy. Pour 14 inch thick into a square tin polished with oil. When hard, cut into squares, wipe the oil off with silk Bape, and: wrap in wax paper. HONEY CANDY: 1 cup strained honey 1 tablespoon butter 1 pound brown sugar ¥% eup. milk Boil all the above ingredients together until a drop in eold water can be rolled to a soft ball, then remove at once and beat until thick. Pour 1% ‘inch thick in square tins polished with oil, cut into squares, wipe oil off with silk paper, and wrap‘in wax paper. PECAN OR WALNUT CHOCOLATE FUDGE: 2 cups sugar 1 tablespoon butter % eup thin cream or milk 1¥4 teaspoons vanilla 2 ounces unsweetened choc- 1 cup chapped pecans or wal- olate nuts Melt the chocolate and butter over hot water, stir in the sugar and cream, then boil to the ‘‘Soft Ball,’’ add the nuts and flavoring, and beat until creamy. Pour 4 inch thick into oiled square tins. When hard cut into squares, wipe with silk paper, then wrap in wax paper. Dipping in Chocolate and in Fondant Break some confectioners’ chocolate, at least a pound, into pieces. Put it in the top pot of a double boiler over the fire, with cold water in lower pot. ~As soon as water is boiling, remove from the fire and stir with a wooden spoon until the chocolate is thoroughly melted. Remove and set pot a few seconds in cold water, then beat, gently until light and smooth. Drop the candies in, one at a~ # PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 621 time, and using a candy dipper, move them around until thoroughly coated with chocolate, then remove to oiled paper. For dipping bonbons in Fondant, reheat, flavor and color the Fondant as directed at ‘‘Fondant,”’ and using a two-tined fork or bonbon-dipper, proceed as directed above. : Molasses Candy, Buttercups, Bar Candy, and Pralines, etc. MOLASSES CANDY: % cup water 2 drops lemon juice 2 cups brown sugar 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 1 .tablespoon butter 1 teaspoon baking soda ¥ cup molasses . Boil the first five ingredients together until a little of the syrup, dipped in cold water, will-crack; then beat in the vanilla extract and the baking soda. Pour into an oiled pan and let stand until cool enough to handle, then pull until light-colored and smooth. Cut into small pieces with large, sharp shears, BUTTERCUPS: 1% cups molasses 4 cup boiling water 1% tablespoons butter 2 drops lemon juice 34 cup brown sugar Boil all the ingredients together until a little of the syrup, dropped in cold water, will crack, then pour into an oiled pan. Let stand until cold enough to handle, then pull until light-colored and smooth. Shape in two long sheets 2 inches wide, cover one with a layer of molasses candy made as above, and arrange the other sheet over it, then gently press both together and cut into even small pieces with large sharp shears. if de- ‘sired, dip in chocolate as directed at ‘‘Dipping in Chocolate.’’ FRUIT BAR CANDY: Use either apples, quinces, apricots, berries, peaches, or green gage plums. Berries are colored with a little earmine. plums with green coloring. 622 - THE FRENCH CHEF IN Wash fruit, drain, and trim’ as for cooking. Cook until tender, then rub through a fine sieve. To each cup of pulp add a cup of sugar and cook in a double boiler until very thick. When removing from the fire, flavor apples, quinces, apricots, or berries with a little lemon juice, green gage plums or peaches with a little vanilla; or, if desired, add thinly chopped almonds or pistachios, or citron. Pour a layer 14 inch thick into a square oiled tin and set in a draughty room to dry for 4 or 5 days. Cut to the desired shape and size, and roll in bar sugar, then let stand again in a draughty room until dry, or another 4 days. Pack same as other candy. PRALINES: 1 pound plump shelled al- 2 pounds sugar monds with skins left on 1% teaspoon powdered vanilla 2% cup water : Put the water and sugar in a copper or graniteware saucepan over the fire and boil to the ‘‘Soft Ball’’ stage, then add the almonds at once. Continue to boil the sugar to the ‘‘Crackling’’ point, gently stirring all the while with a wooden spatula, and by the time the sugar has reached the desired degree, the almonds will make a light grating sound. Remove from the fire, and, using a wooden spatula, rub the mixture against the side of the pan, at the same time stirring the almonds until. the mixture has assumed a sandy texture as if it were granu- lating. : Put a colander over a saucepan and turn mixture into the colander, stir until the boiled sugar has been collected in pan underneath, then put the almonds: back on the fire in the same unwashed saucepan in which the sugar has been cooked, and stir, gently lifting the almonds with a spatula until grilled or until the sugar begins to lightly caramelize, showing a light golden- brown color. At once carefully turn almonds into the colander, carefully detaching them from each other. Divide the collected sugar into three even portions, and from one third take 6 tablespoons of sugar, adding 3 tablespoons to each of the two remaining parts. Put the first or smallest portion in the saucepan in which the PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 623 sugar was boiled, unwashed, add 3 tablespoons of water, rub the sides of the pan with the spatula, and cook the sugar to the ‘‘Crack,’’ adding a little of the powdered vanilla; then add the almonds, quickly stir with wooden spatula, and turn into colander, separating the almonds from each other. Turn the second portion of cooked sugar into the unwashed saucepan, add 8 tablespoons of water, and a little vanilla powder, and boil as above to ‘the ‘‘Crackling’’ point. Stir in the almonds and pour into colander, separating them as above. Repeat the same process with the third part of the sugar and the remaining vanilla powder, and detach the almonds in the colander. When dry, pack in can closely sealed, or glacé almonds as below. The sugar and chopped almonds may be used to make ice cream or pudding ‘‘a la Praline.’ PRALINE GLACE: ~ Put 4 cup of water in a small saucepan over the fire, add 114 ounces of Gum Arabic, stir and simmer until dissolved, and reserve. To the pan in which the Praline has been made, as directed in preceding recipe, add 14 cup of water. With this water and a wooden spoon wash side of the pan to melt the sugar adherring to pan. Add the Gum Arabic and boil until reduced to ¥% eup. Add the Pralines, and toss or gently stir until they are nicely glaced. Turn them in a strainer and dry in the warmer 40 minutes. Pack, when cold, in cans, closely covered. They will keep for a long time. If the sugar left in the pan is not available, add % cup of sugar to the dissolved Gum Arabic, and boil until it ‘‘Sheets.’’ PEANUT BRITTLE: 1 pound sugar _ 1 pound shelled roasted pea- 2 tablespoons water nuts} broken in pieces Turn the sugar and water into a clean, bright frying- pan, and stirring occasionally, cook until it assumes a light-brown color. Add the peanuts and stir constantly until the mixture has assumed a rich golden-brown color, 624 THE FRENCH CHEF IN then at once put bottom of pan into cold water, or remove pan from the fire just as mixture begins to brown, as the heat of the pan will be sufficient to finish the cook- ing. Pour onto a marble slab, and when hard and cold break into pieces. Candied Fruits and Fruits Confits Candied Fruits and Fruits Confits are confections in which the fruit absorbs a syrup, which at the beginning is a light syrup made with, say, 1 cup of sugar to each 11% pints of water. Method: Select firm, sound, ripe fruit (under-ripe rather than over), leaving out any soft fruit. Apricots, plums, cherries, and all fruits with pits are pierced with a carving-fork through to the stone. Then, with a sharp- pointed knife, make a small incision at stem, cut around the stone, taking care not to alter the shape ‘of the fruit, then, using a thin skewer, pierce the fruit at blossom end and force the stone out. Pear, apples, etc., are punctured in several places to allow the fruit to absorb the syrup. They are then peeled, cut into half, carefully cored, and at once im- mersed in cold water with some lemon juice added to prevent discoloration. Put the prepared fruit in a kettle over a slow fire, adding cold water to cover. Bring it just to a bubble and simmer a few minutes or until slightly soft. Using a skimmer, remove softest fruit first, which will rise-to- top. Lift out as they soften and at once immerse in cold water; then put in enough cold water to cover and let stand 2 hours, keeping constantly cool by adding iced water.. If using canned fruits, such as pineapple, apri- cots, etc., it is not necessary to blanch them. Thoroughly drain the fruit, and arrange in a stone crock. Make a syrup in the proportions given above, using enough ingredients to thoroughly cever the fruit. Boil until clear, and gently pour, boiling hot, over the fruit; set on top a light dish to keep immersed without altering shape of fruit, then set in a cold place for 24 hours. Next day drain the fruit thoroughly of syrup, put the syrup in a kettle over the fire, and add to a - PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 625 syrup, made in the proportions given above, 14 cup of sugar; stir until dissolved, boil until clear, and pour boiling hot over fruit arranged in crock. Cover as be: fore, and set in a cold place 24 hours. Repeat the same process every 24 hours adding sugar as above, until the syrup is of the consistency of thick honey, then cover and set a light dish on top to keep constantly immersed in syrup. Set in a cold, dry, dark place for a week or longer. ‘ Fruits Confits: Carefully lift the fruit out of the syrup, drrange on a wire screen, and let dry a few hours in a draughty room. Serve the same day’ on-a dish as dessert with cake. Fruit Confits will keep indefinitely if packed hot and overflowing in hot sterilized jars, sealed the same as canned fruits. Candied Fruits: Drain-the fruit same as for Fruit Confits and let stand in a draughty room until they have lost their stickiness and have partly dried. This will yYequire about 10 days. The finished product should be semi-transparent, free of sugar crystals, of natural size and shape, and have a glaced appearance. Pack in box. The syrup used to make Candied Fruit should not be wasted, as it may be used over again for candied fruits or utilized to make Parfaits, Soufflés, Water Ice, ete. Candied Fruits may also be prepared as explained in the following recipe. CANDIED GREEN GAGE PLUMS: Select some firm green gage plums rather under-ripe than fully ripe, or that still have a green spot. Pre- pare, puncture, pit, blanch, drain, and immerse the plums for 2 hours in cold water as directed above, and thoroughly ‘drain over a wire screen open side down. Use 10 or 11 pounds of fruit to 8 pounds of sugar. Put 4 quarts of water over the fire in a preserving kettle, turn in the sugar, stir until dissolved, and boil until elear. It will improve the flavor of the fruit to add to the syrup half a vanilla bean. Carefully turn in the fruit, bring to a bubble, and let simmer just a minute in order that the fruit may absorb the syrup, then set in 626 THE FRENCH CHEF -IN a cold place for 24 hours, gently placing on top of fruit a light ‘dish or screen to keep it immersed without alter- ing shape. Next day carefully drain the fruit of syrup, and boil this syrup in a kettle about 15 minutes or until it registers on a Beaume hydrometer about 24°. Ar- range the fruit in an earthen crock, and pour in the boiling hot syrup. Set it aside as above for 24 hours. Repeat the same process next day, boiling the syrup 10 minutes, and repeat every consecutive. day until the syrup has attained the consistency of thick honey; then let the fruit stand immersed in its own syrup at least a week. The cold syrup should register 38° on a Beaume hydrometer. . For Fruits Confits, drain the fruit, arranged on a wire screen, for a few hours in a draughty room. Serve on a dish with cake‘as dessert. For Candied Fruits, drain the fruit on a wire screen open side down, and let stand in a draughty room 7 to 10 days or until it has lost its thickness, then pack in a carton box. CANDIED APRICOTS: , . Proceed as directed at ‘‘Candied Green Gage Plums,’ leaving out the vanilla bean. Select firm sound soviet which still have a slight green spot. Run carving fork through green spot to stone, and puncture the other side also. CANDIED PEARS: Proceed as directed at ‘‘ Candied Green Gage Plums.’ Select firm pears that are still a little crisp when eaten raw, therefore a little under-ripe. * Puncture each pear in several places, peel, and cut into even halves, then neatly core, and immerse at once in cold water, adding a little lemon juice to prevent discoloration. CANDIED CHESTNUTS: Order some choice French or Italian chestnuts. Using a sharp knife, carefully slit the first skin and remove it, then put the chestnuts over a slow moderate | A i PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 627 fire in a kettle, well covered with cold water, and heat the water until it threatens to boil, but never actually boils, for 2 hours. Drain and remove second skins. For 14% pounds of chestnuts, put in a kettle over the fire 1 quart of water and 2 tablespoons of glucose, and 2 pounds of sugar. Stir until dissolved, and boil until clear. Gently turn in the chestnuts, and let stand until it just gives a bubble. Remove and set kettle in a cold place for 24 hours, placing a light dish on top to keep them immersed. Finish as directed at ‘‘ Candied Green Gage Plums.’’ CANDIED ORANGE PEEL: Peel 6 oranges and cut the skin in quarters. Ar- range in an enameled saucepan with enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil and simmer slowly until tender, then drain.. Neatly remove all the white sub- stance and cut the peel into thin strips. Boil 34 pound of sugar in 14 cup of water until it spins a thread, adding a few drops of lemon juice; then add the orange peel, bring to a boil, and simmer 5 minutes. Drain off syrup and roll the peel in granulated sugar. Reserve the syrup, as you may use it to make a sauce for Rice Pudding, ete. ALMOND OR PISTACHIO PASTE, I: ‘This paste is used to stuff fresh fruits that are to be eaten the same day. Usually, when stuffed, they are frosted. Proceed as directed at “Frosting of Candied or Fresh Fruits.’’ 4 ounces blanched almonds ~ 8 ounces sifted confectioners’ or pistachio nuts sugar Put the almonds through the nut grinder. Boil for 5 minutes 3 tablespoons of sugar with 3 tablespoons of water. Remove, and add a teaspoon of vanilla extract. Allow this syrup to cool, and while pounding the nuts in a mortar gradually add just enough syrup to obtain a very fine soft paste; then, stirring with a wooden spoon, add very gradually enough of the sugar to obtain a stiff paste that may be rolled on a slab dusted with icing sugar, into several sticks the thickness of a very 628 THE FRENCH CHEF IN small toy broomstick. Cut these into small pieces, and roll them on slab under the hand, shaping into small balls to fit in the cavities made in the pitted dates, seeded. malaga raisins, or canned apricots or peaches. If using the latter, put together the two halves to give fruit its natural shape. Fresh fruit, pitted, may be used if de- sired. Frost as directed at ‘‘Frosting of Candied and Fresh Fruits.’’ If pistachio nuts are used, add, while pounding the nuts, a little green coloring. For coffee-flavored almond paste use a syrup made with 3 tablespoons each of sugar and strong coffee. For a chocolate flavor, add to the vanilla-flavored almond mixture a little confectioners’ chocolate melted over hot water. ALMOND OR PISTACHIO PASTE, II: Utilized to stuff nuts, candied fruit, ete. 1% cups sugar 5 seant ounces almonds or % cup water pistachio nuts Flavoring as desired Put the nuts through a grinder as directed in pre-” ceding recipe. Pound in a mortar, at the same time add- ing the flavoring, which can be 2 teaspoons of vanilla extract or orange blossom water, or 2 tablespoons: of very strong coffee or essence of coffee. The nuts need not be pounded fine. Boil the water and sugar to the “‘Small Crack’’ (see ‘‘Boiling Sugar to the ‘Crack’ ’’), and pour it onto the nut mixture boiling hot, while stirring with a wooden spoon. Thoroughly cool, then pound it so it may be easily handled, and roll portions of it on a slab dusted with sifted icing sugar into same shape as a small’ toy broomstick. Cut off small balls, which, rolled under the hands on a slab dusted with sugar, will fit into cavities of pitted dates, seeded muscat raisins, candied fruits, etc.; then frost as directed at “Prosting of Candied and Fresh Fruits.’’ These will keep several days. : STUFFED ALMONDS, FROSTED: Using an almond paste made as in preceding recipe, shape as there directed into oval balls size of an almond, PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 629 then press half an, almond into each side, and frost it as directed at ‘‘Frosting of Candied and Fresh Fruits.’’ STUFFED WALNUTS: Proceed as directed in preceding recipe, shaping the balls larger and pressing into each side half a walnut meat. FROSTING FOR CANDIED AND FRESH FRUIT: Candied fruit stuffed with an Almond or Pistachio “’ . Paste I or II, or the stuffed: fruit of the three preceding recipes, also such fruit as strawberries, sections of orange or mandarin, preserved pineapple, etc., are often frosted as follows: Have ready some sugar boiled as directed at **Boiling Sugar to the ‘Crack,’ ’’ also the prépared frus, and some long pins or skewers. As soon as the sugar has reached 310° or the ‘‘Crackling’’ point, quickly dip the fruit into it, taking up each piece at the end of a skewer ; then place the end of skewer into the hole of an inverted purée strainer, or drain upon an oiled paper. The fruit surface must be perfectly dry to be frosted as above. _ Sugar Syrups and Use of the Syrup Hydrometer Sugar syrup may be prepared and kept closely sealed in sterilized jars to be used as needed. There are so ‘many occasions for using sugar syrup that no household’ should be without a syrup hydrometer, which is indis- pensable in determining accurately and quickly the de- gree of consistency, which otherwise is always more or less a matter of guesswork. This instrument is called for in making confectioris and cakes, punches and sherbets, and in making candied fruits, ete. To use a syrup hydrometer, fill three-fourths full a long, narrow, cylindrical glass receptacle which will hold as little syrup as may be necessary for testing. Let the -hydrometer gently dip into the syrup, allowing it to go down. slowly by its own weight, and taking care not to let it go down more-than the degree it registers, other- ‘wise, if any portion of the hydrometer, above the degree 630 THE FRENCH CHEF IN registered, is moistened with the syrup, the moistened upper part will render the gauge heavier and it will not register the right density. If it registers more than the desired degree, add a little water, and if it registers less, boil the syrup a little longer. : GUM ARABIC SYRUP: 1 pound sugar 2 tablaspoons orange blossom 1% cups water water 1¥% ounces gum arabic Boil a cup of the measured water with the sugar until clear. Thoroughly dissolve the gum arabic in the re- maining water, in a small saucepan over the fire, combine it with first mixture, add the flavoring, and strain through a fine sieve; then boil until it registers, hot, 32° Beaume. Let cool, skim, then pour in dry bottle and closely seal. Reserve for brushing cakes, Petits- Fours, etc., to give them a sparkling glacé. CARAMEL SYRUP: Utilized to make puddings, ice cream, mousses, or sauce for same, also to make cakes or frosting or filling for same. : This syrup should never have the least burnt flavor or all its rich delectable flavor will be ruined. To obtain this result; proceed as follows: Wipe a clean frying-pan, set it over a quick fire, and add 14 cup of water, 2 drops of lemon juice and 1 pound of sugar. Cook and stir until the sugar is dissolved, then boil until it begins to color. From this time on lift the pan occasionally and place bottom of pan into cold water in another pan, to lower the temperature, then return-it over the fire and cook until it has browned a little more. Repeat until it has assumed a rich clear brown color. To prevent burning, very carefully and gradually add a scant cup of hot water, scraping’ bottom and sides of pan with a palette, and boil 3 fninutes. This ‘syrup will keep indefinitely in a jar tightly covered. It is improved by adding half a vanilla bean. a PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 631 LEMON SYRUP: 1 pound sugar * 1% teaspoon pulverized sour salt 136 cups water (eitrie acid) 2 or 3 lemons, juice and rind Boil the sugar and water 15 minutes’ Strain the lemon juice through a fine sieve, add it to the hot syrup with the lemon rind grated exclusively from the outer skin, and let it infuse until next day. Re-heat the syrup, add the sour salt, strain through a fine sieve, and keep in jars or bottles closely sealed. Use to make lemonade, diluted with filtered ‘water iced, or utilize it to make Fruit Cocktail, Punch, ete. ORANGE SYRUP: 1 pound sugar 2 oranges, juice and rind 134 eups filtered water 1 lemon, juice and rind Same process as in preceding recipe. Used as above to make lemonade or soft drinks. ALMOND SYRUP (ORGEAT): 4 ounces almonds, sweet 114 cups boiling water - 1 ounce almonds, bitter 1 tablespoon orange blossom 2 pounds sugar : water Blanch the almonds and remove skins. Pound to a mush, adding a little of the measured sugar and water. Put the almonds in an enameled saucepan, and, while stirring, very slowly add the boiling water. Pour in a jelly bag, squeezeout liquor into a saucepan, add the sugar, stir over the fire until the sugar is dissolved, and boil about 15 minutes. Remove from the fire, add the flavoring, and strain through a fine sieve. Let cool, skim, and pour in dry bottles, and seal. Used to make soft drinks. CURRANT OR RASPBERRY SYRUP: 1 pint currant or raspberry = 1% pounds sugar juice, filtered Put half of the fruit juice in an enameled kettle over the fire, pour the sugar into center, stir until dissolved, and boil 15 minutes. Remove. Add the remaining juice, and set in hot water to sterilize 20 minutes at about 185° F. Used to make soft drinks. ‘ 632 THE FRENCH CHEF IN RASPBERRY VINEGAR: 2 quarts raspberries 1 cup mild white wine vinegar 1¥ pounds sugar or cider vinegar Put half of the berries in an earthen bowl, add the vinegar, closely cover, and keep in a cold place until next day. Strain, pour liquor on the remaining berries ar- ranged in bowl, and set as before in a cold place until. next day. Turn into a jelly bag, and drip into an enameled saucepan, set it over the fire, pour onto center the sugar, stir until dissolved, and boil until clear. Keep in bottles closely corked. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 633 CHAPTER XXXIII FRUITS AND FRUIT JUICES PREPARATION OF FRUITS FOR THE TABLE, AND SERVING— Fruit Juices anp Turrr Uses—-Maxine or Fruit JUICES FOR BrveracGes— Borriing AND STERILIZING Fruit Juices—GRaPe JUICE. : RUITS are cheapest and best in season. Avoid eat- ing unripe fruit or fruit which is beginning to de- cay. Nearly all fruits should be wiped or rinsed before serving. Always stew or bake fruits in earthen or graniteware pans, as any iron or tin material coming in contact with fruit juices may develop some poisonous substance. 5 s Preparation of Fruits for the Table, and Serving ‘A variety of choice fresh fruit arranged on a large fruit receptacle is most attractive‘and appetizing, especi- ally when some of the green leaves of the fruit are used as a garnishing. As fresh fruits are more or less covered with dust, they should nearly always be rinsed and then thoroughly drained. They are best when chilled. Fresh pears and apples are polished, chilled, and arranged on a garnishing of their own leaves, or on grape or strawberry leaves. Raspberries, blackberries, loganberries, and occasionally strawberries, freed of their hulls, are immersed a few seconds in fresh water, then drained at once. A dainty, pleasing way to serve choice strawberries picked by clean hands is to pile them up with their hulls -left on, on a dish garnished with their own washed leaves. Pile on each leaf a helping of powdered sugar. Grapes are always rinsed in cold water, then thor- oughly drained, and arranged on their own leaves. Grape fruit and oranges are cut in halves crosswise; then, using a special fine saw-edged sharp-pointed knife, remove the seeds and the tough membrane or skin which holds the pulp, cutting-the pulp loose without detaching 634 THE FRENCH CHEF IN it, then cutting the edge of the rind into saw-tooth shape. Chill, and serve each half on a leaf. When grape fruit is served with sherry, pour a tablespoonful of it on each half grape fruit, one hour before serving, and chill. Peaches, apricots, etc., are peeled, then sliced length- wise, running knife as far in as the stone. Arrange in a crystal glass and dredge over with powdered sugar. f Fruit Juices and Their Uses Sterilized fruit juices, bottled, are served as bever- ages, or utilized to make desserts after the season for fresh fruits has passed. The preserved fruit juices ob- -tained as explained at ‘‘Extraction of Juice for Jelly Making’’ may be used to make jelly later, and in this manner fresh-made jelly may be obtained, which is always the best. : Making of Fruit Juices for Beverages Before using fruit for fruit juice for the- table, first taste the fruit to find out if it has an agreeable flavor and if it holds a sufficient percentage of acidity to. render the finished product agreeable, as fruit juice, to be excellent, should hold from 114 to 714 per -cent acid. Beverage fruit juices should retain their own natural’ color and their delectable fresh fruit flavor, which should always be accentuated rather tartly. To retain their flavor, the fruits are usually pasteur- ized for 20 minutes at a temperature of 165° to 180° F. During the pasteurization process, the heated juice should be carefully watched and freely stirred with a wooden spatula, and the use of a thermometer is rec- ommended; but, lacking this, simply heat the juice until a little escaping steam appears, and then keep the liquid constantly at this temperature for 20 minutes. Strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, etc., do not make appealing fruit juices, but sound-ripe loganberries, apples, and the Eastern varieties of grapes make perfect beverages. (For Grape Juice, consult that recipe.) Fruit with a soft pulp, such as berries and currants or very ripe cherries, are crushed and may be rubbed through a purée strainer with medium holes set over an. “N Sie f ‘ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 635 earthen bowl, then set in a cold place until next morning. Turn the coagulated fruit juice into a very fine hair sieve placed over an earthen bowl.- The resulting juice - will be clear and have a fresh fruit flavor. If the juice has to be kept for some time, it is best to sterilize as above. = oe Ripe apricots, peaches, plums, etc., are crushed, and to each pound of fruit a tablespoon of water is added. All fruits with a hard pulp are crushed as thoroughly as possible, usually with a small home fruit crusher, before being heated as above to the pasteurization de- ‘gree. Gravenstein and pippin apples are suitable for fruit juice; and, as apples are obtainable all the year round, the juice of this fruit is usually simply filtered through a coarse cloth to be utilized the same day without sterilization; but if kept for some time, it must be -sterilized as above, then poured into sterilized bottles and sterilized at 180° F. Cloudy juice should be filtered several times through a syrup paper filter or through a flannel bag. Or, the juice may be clarified, although it is not necessary for its preservation and is not recommended for household use, as by this process the agreeable fresh flavor of the fruit will be ruined. To clarify fruit juice, proceed as fellows: While beating two or three egg-whites in an enameled kettle, pour in the cold juice very slowly. Set over the fire, and stir constantly with a wooden spatula until a coagulated mass is formed on top. Do not boil. Strain through a jelly bag or through a cheese-cloth folded in four. _ Commercially, fruit juices are clarified with casein or with Spanish clay. - Bottling and Sterilizing Fruit Juices Place clean bottles and corks, or jars, rubbers and covers, in a kettle on a folded cloth, add cold water to thoroughly cover, and boil 10 minutes. Drain a bottle, and fill it with the fruit juice, leaving a 114-inch open space to allow the liquid to expand while sterilizing.” Then using a wooden potato masher, drive in the cork, tie 636 THE FRENCH CHEF IN it solidly into place with a cord, arrange the bottle hori- zontally upon a rack in boiler, add warm water to cover, then heat the water to 180° F. or until steam’ appears, and sterilize 20 minutes. If sterilized jars are used, fill the drained jar with juice, adjust rubber and cover, and sterilize as above with water up to neck of jar. GRAPE JUICE: The Eastern varieties of grapes are best suited for making grape juice; but when these are not available, use part sweet ripe grapes and part sour. Muscat grapes used in equal proportion with wine grapes pro- duce acceptable fruit juice. The grapes should not -be - too ripe. Remove the stems, and thoroughly crush the grapes with the hands or with the potato masher in a large bowl. Pour into a preserving kettle over the fire, and heat the grapes to 165° F. or until steam appears. Re- move the kettle to a cold place until next morning, then turn contents into a jelly bag-and let drip; or, lacking the bag, turn into a clean, strong cloth placed over a large bowl, gather up one end, a helper taking up the other end, and squeeze the liquor into bowl by twisting the cloth, each one in an opposite direction. This will produce a red-colored grape juice, because, by heating the skin in the juice, the coloring is extracted and as- similated by the juice. For a clearer juice, filter as directed in preceding article. - Fill bottles or jars as in the preceding article and pasteurize as directed. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 637 CHAPTER XXXIV FRUIT JELLIES, MARMALADES AND JAMS QUALIFICATIONS OF FRUITS FOR JELLY—-PREPARATION AND Cooxkine oF Fruit—TuHe JELLY Bag anp Support —ExtTRACcTION or JuiceE—Testing Fruit Juice For Acip AND PrEcTIN, anD ADDING THE SugAR—COoOK- ING THE JUICE AND SuGAR—TEST FOR JELLYING Porint—Sxkiummine, Finting THE TUMBLERS AND CooLInGc—REcIPES FOR JELLIES—MaARMALADE, A GOOD jelly should be clear and of a sharp, spark- ling, bright color, and hard enough to retain its shape when removed from its container, although soft enough to quiver without breaking and to retain its angle when cut with a spoon or knife. The best results are obtained by making jelly in small quantities. Qualifications of Fruit for Jelly ~ Pectin and acid are the two jellying factors in fruit indispensable to making satisfactory jelly. Pectin is a substance nearly similar to gelatine, and like gelatine, it dissolves in a heated liquid and stiffens on cooling. Over-ripe fruits generally have lost much of their jelly- ‘ing qualities, thus the necessity of using sound-ripe fruit. : If either pectin or acid are lacking in proper pro- portions ‘in the selected fruit, it is possible to replace these qualities by adding fruit rich in the missing factor without impairing its flavor and‘color, and thus obtain a good jelly, provided the right proportion of sugar has been used; but the juices must be combined before add- ing the sugar. Such fruit as crab-apples, sour apples, loganberries, currants, lemons, cranberries, Hastern grapes, and sour plums are rich in pectin and-acid, and their juice, with the right proportion of sugar added, _is éasily made into jelly; while others, such as ripe apples, quinces, nearly all the plums, sour cherries, blackberries, California grapes, loquats, grape fruit, and 638 THE FRENCH CHEF IN sweet oranges, hold a medium amount of pectin and acid, and jellies made of these fruits should be carefully handled. Ripe sour oranges and one kind of sour blackberries usually make good jelly. Apricots, peaches, and pears are rather low in pectin and acid, and their juices should have added to them the juice of tart apples or crab- apples. Strawberries and raspberries are low in pectin and acid, and their juices make good jelly with currant Juice added, although crab-apples, loganberries, or lemon juice may be used. Guava and figs are rich in pectin and low in acid, therefore the juice of fruit rich in acid must be added to them. ‘Preparation and Cooking of Fruit for Jelly Making | Small fruits, such as berries, currants, etc., gathered: by clean hands, should not be "washed, but grapes: are always washed. Avoid gathering these fruits, for jelly- making, directly after a rain. : Remove stems and imperfect fruit. As these fruits are rich in water, crush a part of them in the preserving kettle so as to just cover bottom with liquid. Put in the fruit, place the kettle over a slow fire, and cook slowly until the fruit is soft, when it will be bathed in liquor. The heat will help the juice to flow and also will develop the pectin. Other soft fruits are cut in half, quartered, or sliced, according to texture. If water is to be added, use from one-half to one cup to each pound of fruit, this depend- ing on the hardness of the fruit and the time it will require to cook soft. Strawberry-peaches will require very little water, as you.may crush some of them for the juice. Always begin to cook the fruit on a slow fire, and when the juice flows accelerate the heat a little, but avoid any scorching at bottom. It is always best to cook the fruit on a slow fire until the fruit is bathing in its own juice. \ To prepare hard fruits such as apples, quinces, etc., wash, quarter, core; occasionally they are sliced. Aad from 1 to 11% cups of water to each pound of fruit, i PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 639 or, better yet, add just enough water to barely cover them, as it is always best to use as little water as possible to conveniently cook them over a very slow fire at the beginning, as the less water added, the less cooking it will require in the latter part of the cooking, when you add the sugar to the juice. Occasionally the texture of the hard fruit will require “while cooking a little more water, but always cook the fruit over a slow fire until the juice flows, then crush it with’ a masher, and finish cooking until soft, avoiding cooking the fruit too long, else it will destfoy the pectin and flavor, 4nd result in a darkened jelly. Jelly Bag and Support Buy one yard of jelly-bag cloth material. Take a board 12 inches wide by 17 inches long and about 1 inch thick. Nail on middle of each narrow side a supporting strip of board 3 inches wide by 20 inches long, and nail on top of these supporting strips another strip 3 by 24 inches, nailing it onto each support so that the top board will run beyond’ the supports 2 inches on each side. Gather the two’corners of a narrow Side of the cloth and tie around the corners of the supporting strip and top board on one side, and do the same on the other side with the two remaining corners of cloth. This bag will hang, over top of a collecting bowl placed on the large board. It is strong, easily made and handled, and will repay the trouble of making it. The detached cloth is easily washed, and it may be spread on the bowl, the fruit juice poured in, and then attached to board as above. Extraction of Juice Pour the juice into the jelly bag and let it drip a good while or until the material in bag is cool enough to be handled. Press or slowly squeeze by twisting. This last extraction will not be so clear as the first extraction made without pressing, but it will hold more pectin than the dripped juice. Ifa clear jelly is desired, take the juice obtained by pressuré, filter it through a clean bag *% o 640 THE FRENCH CHEF IN until clear; then add it to the juice first extracted, or else it may be made into jelly separately. The best way is to cook the fruit in the evening, and pour it into the jelly bag to drip over night in a cold place. In the morning add a cup of hot water to the pulp in bag, and - press or squeeze to obtain a second extraction, mixing this with the first as explained above. Juice Stock for Jellies: If you have not sufficient tumblers on hand to put up the jelly, extract the juice of surplus fruit as for jelly making, pour it hot into hot sterilized jars, seal, and sterilize, and with it you may make jelly as desired, later on. Testing Fruit Juice for Acid and Pectin, and Adding the Sugar Test the juice to find out how acid it is, and if any doubt, compare it with the acidity of good tart apples, or make a lemonade as follows: Dissolve 14 teaspoon of sugar in 1% cup of water, and add a level teaspoon of ‘lemon juice. If the acidity of the fruit juice is lower than that of the apple or the lemonade, add the juice of some other fruit rich in acid. To test the juice for pectin, put a level teaspoon of juice in a saucer. Let it cool to the surrounding temper-~ ature, stir in slowly the same amount of denatured aleohol, thoroughly mix, and let stand a minute or so. If the pectin masses in one clot of gelatinous substance, the juice is rich in pectin and will require a pound of sugar to each pint of juice. If it assembles in a few large clots of gelatinous material, the juice is moderately rich in pectin; then 34 of a pound of sugar should be used to each pound of juice. If it forms into a few small clots that subside to the bottom, it lacks the necessary amount of pectin to jelly it properly. Fruits low in pectin require a cup of sugar to each pint of juice. If the tested product does not show any precipitation, it is unsuitable to make jelly and should have other fruit added rich in pectin, such as apples, erab-apples, currants; loganberries,. etc. ~ Much eare should be taken when making jelly with fruit juice low in pectin and acid, as the poorer the N PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 641 article is in’ these jellying factors, the less sugar must be added; usually from 1%4 to 34 pound is needed. It must be remembered that jelly holds from 55 to 65 per cent sugar. Less sugar is added to these fruit juices because these mixtures have to be reduced rather con- siderably to eliminate the excess water, thus reducing its bulk; and as it decreases in bulk, iti increases in richness of juice of both pectin and acid. This reduction is always made over a quick fire in a shallow pan until a good jellying test can be obtained. Cooking the Juice and Sugar Weigh the enameled preserving kettle. Pour in the fruit juice, weigh again, and by subtraction obtain the weight of the juice. One pint of juice equals 1 pound. Set over the fire and boil about 5 minutes. Weigh out the amount of sugar required (consult previous article), turn it into the boiling juice, stir until sugar is dissolved, bring to a boil, and boil quickly in shallow pan until it reaches the jellying point, usually from 15 to 30 min- utes (see below). s ; Test for Jellying Point Syrups to be reduced are always boiled over a quick fire in a shallow kettle, and the shallower the pot is, the better are the results as to color and flavor. Boil the fruit syrup over a quick fire and watch it as it begins to boil. Small bubbles first appear, growing larger as the boiling syrup nears the jellying point, when large bubbles appear and the syrup threatens to run over kettle edge; then the jelly is usually done. Or, it is usually done when it masks a skimmer lifted out of the cooking mixture, or when twin drops drip from the spoon, but these tests are only accurate for fruit juices rich in pectin and acid. A practical way to determine when the mixture has been cooked long enough is to drop a little of it onto a chilled saucer. If it quickly hardens, it is done, and if then tested with a Beaume hydrometer, it should reg- ister from 29° to 82°. If registering 29°, a medium stiff jelly will result; if 32°, a stiff jelly will be ob-- tained that will keep well in a hot climate. 21 ‘ 642 THE FRENCH CHEF IN Skimming the Jelly Skim the scum carefully before turning the jelly into tumbler or skim off the scum of the jelly in‘tumblers. This skimmed product should not be wasted, as with hot water added and simmered a few minutes, it may be skimmed and the resulting liquor used to make sauce for pudding, or gelatine, ete. Filling the Tumblers and Cooling The glasses should be sterilized and wiped perfectly dry. The jelly will keep much better if it-is poured very _ hot into hot glasses. Place it in a sunny dry place, and let stand till next day. When the jelly is firm, wipe the inside of the glasses perfectly dry and pour over the jelly some melted paraffine to cover surface. Watch the cooling of the paraffine and pour more paraffine on any spot not perfectly adhering to side of glass. Store ina ~ dark, cold, dry place. Jellies that are put up in very hot climates should be stiff and the jelly should be packed in hot, sterilized jars and tightly covered with sterilized caps and rubber. Recipes for Jellies CURRANT JELLY: m7 Select sound, firm, ripe currants. Carefully wash . and drain thoroughly. Remove stems and imperfect fruit. Put in a preserving kettle, crush a few at the bottom, then set over a slow fire and cook slowly until just tender. Stir occasionally with a wooden spatula to cook evenly. Pour in a jelly bag and let drip, press- ing or squeezing as necessary. Collect and measure the juice and re-heat in preserving kettle. Boil a few min- utes, steadily skimming off scum as it appears, then add to each pint of juice 1 pound sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved, and boil in a shallow kettle over a quick fire until a good jellying test can be obtained. Remove at once, let partly cool, then pour into glass and skim. Set in a dry place free of dust and. insects and cool over night. Cover with melted paraffine and store in a cold, dry, dark place. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES | 643 me: red and white currants are used in equal propor- tions, a light-colored jelly will result. CURRANT AND RASPBERRY JELLY: Same as Currant Jelly, using two-thirds currants to one-third raspberries. GRAPE JELLY: Wash the grapes, and remove all unsound fruit and stems. Put in preserving kettle, crush a few grapes at bottom, set over a slow fire, and proceed as directed in ‘*Currant Jelly,’’ using 34 pound of sugar to each pint of juice. - 7 APPLE JELLY: Wash and wipe the apples, remove stem and blossom, cut into quarters, and discard all imperfect parts. Put in preserving kettle, add water to barely cover, set over a slow fire, and cook, simmering slowly, until tender. Pour into a jelly bag, let drip, press and squeeze, measure the collected juice, re-heat, and boil 5 minutes, skimming off scum as it appears. Add a pound of sugar to each pint of measured juice, stir until dissolved, bring to a boil, and boil over a good fire in shallow kettle until a little, dropped on a cold saucer, will jelly. Pack and store as for Currant Jelly. : QUINCE JELLY: Same as Apple Jelly, using sound, ripe quinces in- stead of apples, and 34 pound of sugar to each pint of juice. It may be best to add a few quartered tart apples: to the quince. WEISBADEN STRAWBERRIES: Wash, thoroughly drain, and hull some firm, large, sound-ripe strawberries, the finest to be had. Leave out all soft ripe fruit. Use 34 pound of sugar to each pound of fruit, and to each pound of sugar add 14 cup of water. Boil water and sugar to the ‘‘Soft Ball’’ stage (see ‘‘ Degrees of Boiling Sugar’’). Gently add the straw- 644 THE FRENCH CHEF IN berries and let stand over the fire until just boiling, then remove at once, and let stand in a cold place 24 hours. Next day carefully drain the berries of their syrup. Re-heat the syrup to a boil, gently pour in the berries, give a bubble, remove at once and set in a cold place until next morning. Repeat the same process for three con- secutive days, after which let the mixture partly cool, then put into dry tumblers, doing the filling in two or three operations to prevent the fruit rising to the top.~ Store as for Currant Jelly. BAR LE DUC-CURRANT JELLY: For each pound of first choice large white or red currants prepared as directed in the following recipe, take 1 pint of strained honey and bring to a boil. Add the fruit and let simmer a few minutes, very slowly. Using a skimmer, lift the fruit out, then arrange in a bowl. Boil the honey left in kettle until thick, and pour it carefully over the currants. Pack and store same as other jelly, filling dry tumblers in two or three operations to prevent the fruit rising to the top. BAR CURRANT JELLY: Wash some choice large white currants, the finest to be had, drain thoroughly, and remove stems, and using a feather toothpick, carefully remove the seeds without impairing the shape of the fruit. For each pound of fruit use 134 pounds of sugar. Boil the sugar with a little water added, to the ‘‘Ball’’ stage (see ‘‘Degrees of Boiling Sugar’’), then gently stir the currants into the boiling syrup. Boil 2 minutes, let partly cool, and fill containers four-fifths full, doing the filling in two operations to prevent’ the fruit rising to the top. Set aside to cool until firm. Next day, finish filling the tumblers with a cooled apple jelly, not yet set. Set aside until next day, then pack and store as for Currant Jelly. CRANBERRY JELLY: Use a pound of sugar-to each quart of fresh fruit. Wash the cranberries and discard imperfect fruit, and 4 PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 645 drain. Put in a preserving kettle. To each quart of fruit add a cup of water, and set over a slow fire. Cook until soft, occasionally stirring bottom with a wooden spoon to prevent scorching. Rub the cooked fruit through a fine sieve into an enameled saucepan; re-heat to a boil, add the sugar, stir until melted, and boil 5 minutes. Let partly cool, and put into dry tumblers. Pack and store as for Currant Jelly. MINT JELLY: Extract the juice of some white tart apples as usual when preparing fruit juice for jelly. Pour into a pre- serving kettle, adding the juice of a lemon, a teaspoon of green coloring, a spice-bag holding a bunch of washed young mint leaves bruised, and boil'5 minutes, then add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Boil until a good jellying test can be obtained, remove, and lift out the spice-bag. When partly cold, fill tumblers, and pack and store as for Currant Jelly. VENISON JELLY: Wash 3 quarts of wild grapes, drain, and remove stems. Put 1 cup of white wine vinegar in an enameled preserving kettle, add the grapes, and a teaspoon of whole cloves and a piece of cinnamon stick, then set © over a slow fire. Cook until the fruit is soft and the juice flows. Pour into a jelly bag, let drip, and squeeze. Finish. same as other jellies, adding to each pint of fruit juice 34 pound of sugar. Marmalades “Most Marmalades are simply jellies in which pieces of fruit are left; therefore, all the rules and directions for Jelly Making are applicable to the making of Mar- malades. As a rule Marmalades are not so thick as jellies. Usually the fruits are divided into two parts. One part is pared and cut into pieces, and blanched until tender, then drained and reserved on a strainer. With the remaining fruit make a jelly as usual. When the Juice is extracted, pour into a. kettle, boil a few min- utes, add the suger, stir until dissolved, bring to a boil, 646 THE FRENCH CHEF IN then add the reserved fruit and boil until a good jelly- ing test can be obtained. Pack and store same as other jellies. RAISINE: Weigh an equal part of pears and grapes. Wash: — the grapes, drain thoroughly, and remove stems. Put in preserving kettle, crush a few at bottom, and put kettle over a slow fire. Stir occasionally with a wooden spatula, and cook until the juice flows. Pour into a jelly bag, let drip, and finish by squeezing. Measure the juice, and return it to kettle over the fire. By this time have ready the pears, peeled, quartered, cored, and sliced crosswise. Add them to the juice, and stirring, bring it to a boil, boiling until the pears are just tender, then add to each pint of juice 34 pound of sugar, stir until dis- solved, and boil until a good jellying test can be ob- tained. Let partly cool, and put into hot, dry sterilized tumblers, filling them in three or four operations in order that the fruit may not rise to the top. Pack and store same as other jellies. AMBER CITRUS MARMALADE: 2 oranges 2 grape fruit 2 lemons Utilize firm ripe fruit: Wash and wipe. With a sharp, thin knife cut off the surface of half of the fruit some thin slices of rind, and cut these into small pieces or shred. Grate the rind of. the remaining fruit and reserve. Take off and discard every bit of the thick white inner skin. Cut the fruit into pieces 14 inch thick, remove all the seeds and collect the running liquor, which add to pieces of oranges and rind. Measure the fruit, add twice its bulk of cold water, and let stand 24 hours. Boil uncovered about 6 hours, or until the fruit is tender. One hour before done, add the reserved grated rind. Measure and re-heat to a boil, then add an even-amount of sugar, and boil until a good jellying test can be ob- tained.” Fill hot sterilized glasses, and when cold, cover with paraffine. ORANGE MARMALADE: For 6 oranges use 1 large lemon, and with these proceed as directed.at ‘Amber Citrus Marmalade.” PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 647 jams ' Usually the less choice, or the imperfect and too-ripe fruit, not suitable for jelly making, is used to make jams. Three-fourths pound of sugar to each pound of fruit is generally added, as the finished article should contain 66 per cent sugar in order that it may keep without steril- ization. When it contains less sugar, it should be poured boiling hot into hot sterilized jars, with sterilized rubbers and covers. / Berries are washed and drained, then crushed in a preserving kettle. Method: Use 34 pound of sugar to 1 pound of any variety of berries. Arrange the crushed fruit and sugar in alternate layers in kettle and let stand 3 hours to extract the juice. Then bring it slowly to a boil and simmer till thick or until a little of the syrup, cooled on a chilled saucer, will remain homogeneous and thick. Apples and quinces are peeled, quartered, and cored. The prepared pieces are immersed in cold water, with a - little lemon juice added, and left standing until needed, to prevent discoloration. Method: To the trimmings and cores of fruit add enough water to cover, and boil about 20 minutes, then strain the liquid into a preserving kettle over the fire, add the thoroughly drained reserved fruit, and, occa- sionally stirring, cook until soft, then add the sugar heated in-oven and cook the mixture about 15 minutes longer. Stir occasionally to mash the fruit. A little grated rind and juice of a lemon may be added, if a lemon flavor is desired. Pack and store same as other jellies. Occasionally apple and quince are combined. RHUBARB JAM: ; Red stalks of rhubarb should be utilized to make jams. Thinly peel the strings off the skins, cut the stalk into small, even pieces, put in a porcelain-lined kettle, pour over an equal weight of sugar, and let stand ina cold place until next morning. Then set the kettle over the fire, and while occasionally stirring gently with a wooden spatula, bring to a boil, and boil about 25 min- utes, then remove kettle to a slower fire that will keep the mixture simmering half an hour. 648 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHAPTER XXXV 7s CANNING CANNING OF VEGETABLES— CANNING VEGETABLES BY TH] Coup Pack MretaHop—BLANCHING VEGETABLES FO] CANNING, AND THE ‘‘CoLD Drip’’—PackIne IN JAR: —One-Day STERILIZATION OR PrRocESSING—INTER MITTENT STERILIZATION, OR THREE-Day Process— CANNING oF Fruir—TuHeE Open Kettie MetHop-- Co~p Pack MetHop For CANNING FRUIT. LL kinds of fruits and vegetables can be preservec in glass jars or tin cans, but as canning in tins i not practicable in private families, we will only conside! glass jars, which should be selected of convenient size— half-pints, pints, or quarts, according to the size of th family. The best type of jar for home canning is perhap: the ‘‘Economy’’ jar. These have large openings anc are easily filled. The ‘‘Mason’’ jars that have cover: that screw down on rubber are not quite-so handy, bu are more economical, as these, carefully opened, rwill las many years, only requiring a new rubber each year while the ‘‘Economy’’ jars require new lids and clamp: each year. The jars, rubbers, and covers must be perfect. Thi covers should be tested before using to see if they fit When using rubbers previously utilized, adjust two rub bers on each jar. Over-ripe or long- picked fruit o vegetables are not desirable for canning, as the freshe and the cleaner these products are, the less liable thes are to be infected with bacteria, and the canned product: will be more satisfactory as to color and flavor. In order that fruit may keep in jars, a thorougl killing of bacteria or spore of bacteria is necessary therefore, to insure success in canning, the jars, rubbers and covers must be first sterilized by boiling them ter minutes before filling, and the filled jar,.after sealing must also be heated a reasonable length of time to insur: the killing of all germs that cause spoiling. All utensil: that come in contact with products to be canned shoul< be thoroughly sterilized. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 649 Canning of Vegetables All vegetables, with the exception of tomatoes and sorrel, are deficient in acid, and as nearly all vegetables are canned in a slightly salted brine, it renders their sterilization very difficult. Thus, to prevent the Bacillus Botulinus developing in canned vegetables, it is neces- sary to_add a certain amount of lemon juice to make up for this deficiency in acid. Or, leaving out the acid,, sterilize the canned vegetables at 212° F. one hour each day for three consecutive days, although this method is not recommended, as it destroys the fruit texture. _ The addition of lemon juice is desirable in such vegetables as cauliflower, asparagus, beets, artichokes, string beans, ete.; these, drained, may’ be immersed in cold water for a few minutes, thus removing some of the lemon flavor. This addition is not desirable for such vegetables as spinach, green peas, corn, carrots, etc. Oceasionally strong vinegar is substituted for the lemon juice; then, to remove the sour flavor, drain the vege- tables, turn them into rapidly boiling water to just cover, adding a dash of soda, let bubble a few seconds, and drain at once. This will entirely remove the vinegar flavor. For security in canning consult the following articles. TaBLE SHOWING COMPOSITION OF BRINE TO PRESERVE VEGETABLES IN ONE-Day STERILIZATION Water Salt Lemon Juice Sterilization Quart Teaspoons Tablespoons * at 2129 F.—Hours Asparagus’ 1 2 2% 1% Artichoke Bottoms 1 2 2% “1% Beets 1 2 2 1% Cauliflower 1 2 ay, 1% String Beans 1 1% 214 2 - Lima Beans 1 1%~ 2% 2 Green Peas 1 1% 2% 2 Pumpkin and Squash 1 1% 2 1% Greens and Spinach 1 1% ° 2% 1% Green Corn 1 2 21% and 4 eup sugar 24% Leek Tips 1 2 21%, 1% ‘Mushrooms 1 2 2 1% For peas-and corn, the lemon juice may be omitted, then steril- ize the peas at 212° F. for 3 hours and the corn 4 hours. 650 THE FRENCH CHEF IN = Canning Vegetables by the Cold Pack Method Canning by the Cold Pack Method requires a special equipment, which consists of a covered boiler or kettle with an evenly fitting wooden rack at bottom, besides two pans of convenient size, one to parboil or blanch the vegetables, and the other to immerse the cold vegetables in water, also some cheese-cloth or a wire basket handy to dip in cold water in pan. | Select fresh-picked young vegetables. Sort as to size, tenderness, and quality, so as to can the small, tender vegetables separately, as the older or larger vegetables will require a longer cooking. Prepare the vegetables according to kind as much as possible, as when preparing them for the table, or cut them of a convenient size-so they may be packed in jars without impairing their shape. Wash in plenty of cold water and drain, or let stand awhile in a bath of cold water as directed at the respective recipes. Blanching Vegetables for Canning, and the “Cold Drip” The prepared vegetables are nearly always blanched for a short time, varying with the kind of vegetable, and with its texture, size, and tenderness. This blanch- ing improves the texture and shrinks the vegetables,. which are thus rendered more flexible, facilitating their packing in jars, and gives them a thorough cleansing, which makes their liquid clearer, and removes any un- desjrable strong flavor. Arrange the prepared vegetables on a wire basket or cheese-cloth, plunge them into water rapidly boiling over a brisk fire, bring it as quickly as possible again to- a boil, and parboil them, following the directions given in the following table, cooking the smaller tender articles the minimum of time and the larger older articles the maximum of time. Lift out of the boiling water and plunge into plenty of cold water. This is called the ‘‘Cold Drip.’’ Small vegetables are allowed to stand: immersed until chilled. Larger articles are_ immersed about half a minute so the center may remain hot; this — PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES | 651 will set the color, stop the flow of juice, and render the article crisp. : Carrots, pumpkins, parsnips, squash, etc., need not be blanched. These are prepared as for the table and are often.arranged directly in the sterilized jar. Green peppers, red peppers, and pimentos are usually broiled, then the skins, seeds and stems are removed; and then they are arranged in the jar. To remove skin, cook the pepper in heated oil. ‘ Tanne SHowing Buancuine Timz oF VEGETABLES CANNED BY THE CoLtp Pack MrtHop 3 Minutes ' Brussels Sprouts .......-..c.e eee e eee 4 to 6 Artichokes ....... 0. cee eee eee tees 6 to 10 Beets ....... Sion aie s eink agar aoine ate 8 to 15 Sweet Corn: ........ cece eee cence 5 to 10 \ Green Peas ...... cece ese eect eee eens lto 5 Green Spinach ..........e eee eee e eens 6 to 10 Cauliflower ...... niches niagara IME spears wD 4 to 8 ASPATAZUS . oe cece eee eee eee eee tees 2to 9 Leek TipS .....-.ee erect eterna 2to 6 String Beans .........e essence rete 6 to 10 Packing in Jars Drain the dripped vegetables thoroughly and care-. fully pack in hot sterilized jars. Press down with a wooden spatula, lightly, and pack solidly, but be careful not to crush the article. Flatten the sterilized rubber into place, taking care that neither juice nor seeds are under it. One-Day Sterilization or Processing Arrange the jars, filled as directed in preceding article, on the rack in the boiler. Pour warm water into boiler to two-thirds of jars’ height; cover, set over the fire, and when boiling remove cover. Fill each jar with the boiling prepared acidulated brine (see ‘‘Table Show- ing Composition of Brine to Preserve Vegetables in One-Day Sterilization’’); then adjust the cover loosely on the rubber, adding boiling water to boiler to bring the water nearly to the rubber. Cover, and boil the required time (consult Table). It will be necessary occa-" sionally to add boiling water in the boiler and boiling 652 THE FRENCH CHEF IN acidulated brine in the jars to keep them always at same level. When done tightly adjust each cover on jar, remove jars, and let them cool inverted, to make sure they do not leak. Watch, and screw down cover as needed. Store in cool dark place. - Intermittent Sterilization, or Three-Day Process All vegetables, with the exception of tomatoes and sorrel, that are preserved without the: addition of. acid, should be. processed by the intermittent sterilization method, which consists of heating the contents and surrounding water in a boiler to 212° F., and keeping them at that temperature, covered, for a certain length of time, which for vegetables is usually one hour a day .for three consecutive days. This is a safe method of preserving vegetables, but itis not recommended, as the finished article is so softened that it loses much of the quality required of good vegetables, and it is best to proceed as directed in preceding article. Recipes for Canned Vegetables CANNED MUSHROOMS: Select fresh-picked mushrooms with firm caps, wash quickly in cold water, and drain. Sort according to size, peel the buttons, and cut the stems close to caps. Carefully wash peelings and trimmings, and drain. Using enough water to can mushrooms in jar, pour cold water over peelings, and trimmings in a saucepan, to each quart of water adding 2 teaspoons of salt, and 2 tablespoons of lemon juice; boil fifteen minutes, strain, and reserve the liquor boiling hot to fill jars. Arrange half-pint clean jars over the rack in boiler, add cold water to two-thirds of jar’s height, cover boiler, bring to a boil, pack the prepared mushroom buttons and stems solidly in the jars, shaking the jars occasionally, and, as mushrooms shrink, add more mushrooms. Boil until the mushrooms cease to shrink, when it will be necessary to fill some of the jars with the shrunken mushroom contents of other jars so as to pack as solidly as possible. Pour the reserved boiling mushroom liquor into the filled jars, to overflowing, adjust the rubbers Ry PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 653 and covers loosely, add to boiler boiling water nearly to the level of rubbers, cover boiler, and sterilize at 212° F. ‘ for 14% hours. Add boiling water to boiler as needed, and acidulated boiling brine to jars. When done tightly cover, cool inverted, and store in a dark, cold place. CANNED TOMATOES: Tomatoes preserved by the Cold Pack Method are first scalded, peeled, and quartered, then packed in sterilized jars and processed about 114 hours in One-Day Sterilization at 212° F., but as tomatoes hold water in large proportions, it gives better results to can the toma- toes by the Open Kettle Method. Scald the tomatoes in boiling water about 3 minutes, then remove skins. Quarter, arrange in an agateware ‘ or enameled kettle, set on a slow fire until boiling, occa- sionally shaking pan, let simmer a few minutes, then fill to overflowing some hot sterilized jars, arrange them on the rack in the boiler, adjust rubbers and covers loosely, add boiling water to neck of jars, and boil.15 minutes. Adjust cover, cool inverted, and store in a cold, dark place. TOMATO PASTE: Select perfect ripe tomatoes, wash, and cut into quar- ters. Arrange in an enameled preserving kettle, crush with the potato masher, set over the fire, bring to a boil, and occasionally stirring bottom with a wooden spatula, cook 30 minutes. Rub through a purée strainer, placed on an enameled saucepan, that will hold back the seeds. Place over the fire, and when boiling, remove to a slow spot on the range to simmer slowly until very thick, adding to each quart of material a‘teaspoon of salt. Stir bottom often to prevent scorching. Fill in hot sterilized half-pint jars, adjust rubber rings and covers loosely, sterilize 14 hour, tighten cover, and when cold store in a cool, dark place. Canning of Fruit Select clean, firm, sound-ripe fruit. Wash the fruit a few seconds in plenty of. cold water and drain thor- 654 THE FRENCH CHEF IN oughly, as in this manner the amount of skimming is reduced to a minimum. Berries that have been carefully picked should not be washed, but care must be taken not to crush them. Apricots, plums, and the like are cut in two, and pitted, and the stem ends neatly trimmed. Peaches are peeled by scalding them a couple of minutes. in boiling water, then immerse in cold water one minute, drain, and remove skins. Peaches are often sliced. Pears and apples are peeled, cut in two lengthwise, and neatly cored. To prevent discoloration, they should be im- mersed at once in cold water with lemon juice added. To Sterilize Jars, Rubber Rings, and Covers: All utensils, jars, covers, and rubbers should be very clean and sterilized. To sterilize articles, arrange them in a basin with cold water to cover, bring to a boil, and boil ten minutes. According to the needs of the family, use half-pint, pint, or quart jars. The Open Kettle Method The Open Kettle Method has the advantage over the Cold Pack Method, that less sugar is required. Fruit prepared as in the preceding article is turned in small batches into a boiling sugar syrup so that all may be thoroughly immersed. They are brought quickly to the boiling point and cooked simmering until just soft enough to hold their shape. Cooked in this manner they also retain their flavor and color, and their shape will not be altered if they are carefully handled when packing the fruit in hot sterilized jars. Then fill the -hot sterilized jars to overflowing with the boiling hot syrup, and if there is not enough syrup left to fill the last jar, fill with boiling water. Introduce a spoon handle between fruit and inside of jar so as to give a vent for the air bubbles to rise on top and escape. Adjust rubber and covers, and arrange the jars in boiling water in the boiler over a wooden rack. Keep water at the boiling point 15 minutes. Juicy fruit does not require as much syrup as hard fruit, and ‘if there is any excess after the canning is done, it may be used‘to make sauce for pudding, ete., or to can later. PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 655 Hard fruit absorbs syrup. The juice of soft fruits, such as berries, flows and merges with the boiling syrup. Apples are usually canned for pie-making, and the sugar is then omitted. Before removing the jar, tightly cover, and make sure that air cannot penetrate, by cooling them inverted, screwing down the cover tighter as needed. Always arrange to sort fruit as to size and degree of hardness, cooking the different grades separately, and taking care to have the syrup boiling before adding a Second or third batch of the prepared fruit; never add more! fruit at one time than the syrup will cover. Small fruit and all fruits softened from ripeness require very little cooking, 14 to 1 or 2 minutes. . Hard fruits are cooked until just soft enough to hold their shape. Grading of Syrups Syrups are graded according to their consistency or thickness, which depends on the proportion of sugar used to water. The syrups used in private families may be graded as follows: Sugar Water Bent Pounds Quarts No. 1 % 1 Generally used for sweet fruits No. 2 34 1 Generally used for sweet fruits No. 3 1 1 Used for medium sweet fruit or sour No. 4 14% 1 Used for sour fruits Oceasionally, when a rich article is desired, 114 pounds sugar to each quart of water may be used. Al- ways boil water and sugar until clear, as if boiled longer the proportions are changed by the evaporation of the water. Since there is no rule for regulating the sweetness of eanned food products, it remains a matter of economy or taste to put up such fruits as apricots, peaches, and berries in a more or less rich syrup, as these can be preserved without any sugar, and where there is an abundance of fruit, the juice of the ripest fruits may be - extracted and filtered, and used as a substitute for syrup for preserving the fruit, reserving the sound fruit for canning. Fruits for pies are canned simply in boiling water. 656 THE FRENCH CHEF IN ‘ Fruit Rich in Acid, such as rhubarb, gooseberries, etc., may be packed raw in sterilized jars. Wash fruit in plenty of cold water, and drain. Put fruit and steril- ized jars into plenty of cold water, fill the jars under water -with the fruits, tightly cover under water, and store in a cold, dark place without sterilization. Full-sized pears for canning should be‘ripened in a cool, dark place covered with a blank ;aper. This gives the Fruita fine texture and flavor. Cold Pack Method for Canning Fruit By the Cold Pack Method, which is best adapted for canning of berries, currants, and soft fruits, the sorted and prepared fruits are packed without any preliminary cooking into hot sterilized jars; then the jars are filled to overflowing with boiling hot syrup. Blanching: ‘ Fruits such as pears or plums are blanched as follows: Turn the prepared fruit into boil- ing water and let boil from 1 to 3 minutes, according to hardness; thén lift out and at once immerse in plenty of cold water, for a short time. Drain well, and pack carefully in ‘hot sterilized jars. This treatment of blanching and cold drip gives a transparent look to the fruit and partly shrinks it. The subsequent cooking or processing is done in the jars. (See ‘‘Blanching of Vegetables for Canning and Cold Drip.’’) The Cold Pack Method differs from the Open Kettle Method in that some of the fruit’ contraction or shrink- age occurs in the jars, while in the Open Kettle Method, it is shrunk in the boiling syrup: before packing in jars. There is, consequently, a loss of space and the use of more jars and sugar is required, because in.the Open Kettle Method the cooked shrunken fruit is packed as solidly as desired and syrup is added by regulating the packing in each jar to obtain, when the jars are filled to overflowing with hot syrup, just enough syrup to properly serve the fruit. The different grades of syrup given for the Open Kettle Method are also good for the Cold Pack Method. r ay PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 657 Method: Fill the hot sterilized jars with the pre- pared fruit, gently packing them solidly. Pour in boil- ing syrup to overflowing, adjust the rubbers and covers loosely, put over the raek in boiler with boiling water to neck of jars, and when cooked the required time, seal. tightly. Cool inverted, and store in a dark, cold place. - The blanching and cooking or processing time of fruit depends on the kind, ripeness, or texture of the fruit, as shown by the following table: - Blanching Time Processing Time Fruit i Minutes Minutes | Apricots ......4 Lt0 2 bargatewie Saeaes be a et 16 Apples .......... 1D ot rswde saan canes cee 20 Berries ......++.. No blanching ..........+.00-- 20 Peaches,.......+. DF acasoes eauaun doy Gadel MORE REE E S 16 Pears ...... ovate TG sho. cos ag oy ba sand a vase RGR SES 20 Pigs) ire os sere ye ee ee ee eee 16 Cherries ......... No blanching .............-- 16 Grapes ........45 No blanching .............4. 16 Fruits that have pits should have added to each jar a cracked pit to give a noyeau flavor. 658 THE FRENCH CHEF IN CHAPTER XXXVI PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES WITH OR WITHOUT FERMENTATION THE Dry Sart Mernop— Preservation oF VEGETABLES IN STRONG BRINE WITHOUT FERMENTATION — PRESER- VATION OF VEGETABLES BY FERMENTATION IN BRINE. The Dry Salt Method (Best for String Beans) ELECT fresh-gathered vegetables, and remove all wilted leaves and imperfect parts. Prepare string beans as for the table. The secret of preserving vege- tables successfully with salt is a question of judgment in using the right proportion of salt to a given weight of vegetables. *. Method: Use to each 10 pounds of prepared vege- tables 234 pounds of kitchen salt, Arrange a layer of salt at bottom of a dry keg, earthen jar, or crock, then a layer of vegetables. Repeat these layers alternately, . covering top with a generous layer of salt. Arrange over all a doubled cheese-cloth, put over it a tight-fitting wooden or earthen cover, and place on this a heavy, clean stone or weight. There must be absolutely no metallic material used, to be acted upon by the acid developed in the brine. Under the pressure of the weight and the action of the salt, the vegetables will shrink considerably, and their drawn juice, in combination ‘with the melted salt, will produce a brine that will keep the vegetables im- mersed. String beans thus preserved should be put up in the month of September. Set them in a cold, dry, dark place covered. If any excess of brine comes over top of wooden cover, remove it. ° To use, take any amount desired, rinse, and soak them in a change of cold water to remove the excess of salt. As the soaking shrunken vegetables will regain their natural size, always take a third less vegetables than PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 659 the amount you will need. It is usually best to soak them over night. Blanch same as the fresh article, leaving out salt, and adding to the blanching vegetables a slice of lemon. Preservation of Vegetables in Strong Brine Without Fermentation (For Pimentos, Green and Red Peppers, Cauliflower, Artichokes, Cucumbers, etc.) Prepare the vegetables as for the table. Make a brine with 334 to 4 pounds of salt to each gallon of water. Arrange the prepared vegetables in a keg or crock, pour brine over vegetables to cover, arrange on top a cheese- cloth, set over it a tight-fitting wooden cover, and put a weight on top of this. Keep in a cold, dry, dark place perfectly covered, and if mold appears , yn top, add more - salt. 7 To use the vegetables, rinse any amount.of them and soak over night. Wash the cover and the cheese-cloth every time any vegetables are taken out, and replace as —before. Blanch as directed at thé fresh article, leaving_ out the salt, but to cooking artichokes or cauliflower add a slice of lemon. _ . SAUERKRAUT: Select fresh-gathered cabbage, and remove all wilted and green leaves and tough center parts, and thinly slice. Using a scant pound of kitchen salt to each 10 pounds of cabbage, proceed exactly as directed at ‘‘ Preservation of Vegetables by Salt without Fermentation.’’ Cover as there directed, putting a heavy stone on top. Keep in a room at a surrounding temperature of 65° F. to 75° F. The fermentation will set in the first day and _ will continue nearly 2 weeks. After fermentation is over, store in a cold, dry, dark place. It will improve the. sauerkraut’s flavor to add some juniper berries. After 3. weeks the sauerkraut can be used. : * Tf the brine shows any signs of spoiling, replace it by a fresh brine made in the proportion of 14° pound of salt to each gallon of water. 660 THE FRENCH CHEF IN \ Preservation of Vegetables by Fermentation in Brine* Pack the vegetables in a keg or crock, and pour over to thoroughly cover a weak brine made in the following proportions: To each gallon of water, add 14 pint of vinegar and %4 cup of salt. Stir until the salt is dissolved. The. vegetables will require about half their weight in brine. Keep vegetables immersed in the brine with a tight- fitting wooden cover and let stand in a warm place until fermentation is over. Dill and spice may be added at the same time as liquid. Remove to a cold place and seal with paraffine, skimming off the film of mold on top before sealing. * Farmers’ Bulletin 881, U. 8S. D. A. — PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 661 cl CHAPTER XXXVII PICKLES AND RELISHES PickLING—ReEcIPEs FoR PICKLED VEGETABLES— RECIPES FoR PICKLED FRuITSs. _ Pickling P ICKLING is the preservation of foods in salt, occa- sionally salt with vinegar added, in vinegar, or in vinegar syrup. Pickled products should never come in ' contact with metal, or a poisonous compound may de- velop; therefore, use wooden or enameled spoons, wooden buckets, or earthen crocks or jars. If a weight is needed to keep the article immersed, use a clean stone. The ‘salt brine used to keep vegetables in for pickling should be strong enough to float an egg. Dissolve in each gallon of water about 15 ounces or a scant pound of kitchen salt. - When the brine is used only to keep vegetables over night, make enough to cover, using 14 cup of kitchen salt to each quart of cold water. : Cloves, taragon, fennel, horse-radish, pepper-corns, cinnamon, etc., are used as spices in pickling. Occasionally vegetables are scalded or cooked a short while in vinegar, then, to réstore their original color as well as to impart flavoring, they may be covered with fennel stems, taragon, beets, or grape leaves. Scalded products absorb the vinegar much better than raw articles but they lose some of their crispness. In pickling always use pure mild malt or white wine vinegar. A spiced vinegar gives best results for any kind of pickles. | Raw vinegar is seldom used in pickling; it should always be boiled with or without spices. Spiced Vinegar: Boil 1 quart vinegar 10 minutes with taragon leaves, fennel stems; and 2 chopped green , or red peppers; or boil: the vinegar simply with a tablespoon: each, of whole cloves, pepper-corns, ginger, mace, allspice, and one bay leaf. Pepper-corns are used when fresh green peppers are not obtainable. Pickles Ns 662 THE FRENCH CHEF IN keep better and indefinitely, packed in sealed jars with glass tops, but if all the materials used, especially the vinegar and spice, are of good quality, they may be kept in stone jars or kegs for months, provided they are thoroughly immersed. Recipes for Pickled Vegetables SOUR CUCUMBER PICKLES: Select. small green, fresh-gathered cucumbers. Rub each one with a wet coarse cloth wrung out in jts water. Arrange in a stone jar in layers, sprinkle salt over each layer, then add cold water to cover, using 34 pound of salt to each gallon of water, and let-stand 12 hours. Drain, rinse, wipe, and pack the cucumbers in a keg or erock, adding a branch each, of fennel and taragon leaves, two cloves, and a, few small green or red peppers. Lacking the peppers, add a few pepper-corns, and pour over some boiling hot white wine mild vinegar to thor- oughly cover. Place over top a tight-fitting wooden cover with a clean stone to keep pickles immersed. Add grape or beet leaves on top of the cucumbers, if desired. Keep covered in a cold dark place. When a crisp article is desired, first pour boiling. vinegar on the cucumbers, leaving out the spice. Cool and drain, then proceed with the cucumbers as directed above, pouring. over the flavoring ingredients fresh, boiling hot vinegar. The first vinegar need not be wasted, as it may be used to remove insects from soak- ing vegetables such as cauliflower, etc. SWEET CUCUMBER PICKLES: Prepare the cucumbers and let them stand 12 hours in a salt brine as directed in preceding article. Drain and wipe. Put in an agateware kettle 14 cup of sugar to each pint of mild vinegar. Stir until dissolved, bring to a boil, and pour over the cucumbers arranged in dry kegs or stone jars in which, as may be available, any of the following spices have been put: green or red pepper, green nasturtium, -horse-radish, mustard seed, ginger root. Arrange on top some fennel and taragon \ PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 663- leaves, or, lacking these, grape or cabbage leaves; put on a tight-fitting wooden cover with a weight on top. Keep in a cold, dry, dark place. DILL PICKLES: Take an earthen jar or a dry keg that holds 4 or 5 gallons. Select large cucumbers, and wipe them with a wet cloth wrung out in its own water. Arrange at bottom of keg a layer of grape or beet leaves and some dill seed on bunch; lay over this two or three thicknesses of cucumbers, occasionally ‘adding a little dill pickle spice. Repeat these layers alternately until the container is four-fifths full. Cover top with a thick layer of beet, grape, or cabbage leaves, then ‘put a tight-fitting wooden cover and a clean stone on top, then fill with a brine made as follows: 21% gallons of water, 1 pound of salt, and 224 cups of mild vinegar. In four weeks the. fer- mentation will cease, then pickles are ready to use. Seal with paraffine. PICKLED ONIONS: Select small white onions. Peel the onions and wipe with a wet cloth wrung out in its water. Proceed as directed for ‘‘Sour Pickles.”’ To prevent the unpleasant effect on the eyes, put the onions 14 minute in warm water, and drain. PICKLED TOMATOES: $ 4 quarts green tomatoes 3 pints mild vinegar . 8 quarts firm red tomatoes 1% pounds brown sugar 4 or 5 large tender onions 1 teaspoon -whole cloves “2 red peppers 1 small stick cinnamon 3. green peppers 1 tablespoon mustard seed % eup salt : Chop all the-vegetables coarse, carefully discard the seeds of the peppers, sprinkle salt over, and let stand over night. In the morning pour in a cloth and press out the liquor. Put the vinegar, sugar, and spice in an enameled kettle, bring to a boil, add the vegetables, and cook until tender. : These pickles will keep indefinitely when packed hot in hot sterilized jars sealed with glass tops. a 664 THE FRENCH CHEF IN ~ PICKLED GREEN TOMATOES: 8 pounds green tomatoes, 1% pounds brown suger thinly sliced 12 cloves 10 tender white onions, thinly 1 tablespoon pepper-corns sliced 1 rounded teaspoon allspice 4 red peppers, seeds removed, 1 tablespoon mustard seed chopped 1 tablespoon celery seed 1% pints vinegar Prepare all the vegetables as directed in preceding recipe, discarding from each tomato a thin slice off the blossom and stem ends. Put the tomato and onion in an earthen bowl, and dredge over them 14 cup of salt. Let stand 12 hours, then turn into a cloth placed over a strainer, and press out liquor. Put the vinegar, sugar, and spice in an enameled kettle over the fire, stir until boiling, add the vegetables, bring quickly to a boil, and simmer about 25 minutes. - ‘ These pickles will keep indefinitely in hot sterilized _jars, closely sealed with glass tops. CHUTNEY: 3 pounds tart apples, peeled, 1 pound sugar (white or quartered and cored ; brown) 2 green peppers, seeds re- moved 1 red pepper, seeds removed 1 large tender onion, peeled Y% pound seeded raisins Put apples, peppers, raisins and onion through the meat chopper. Turn into an enameled kettle and add the sugar and vinegar. Bring to a boil, and simmer 50 , minutes. Add the remaining ingredients, and simmer another 50 minutes. pint mild vinegar tablespoon ginger tablespoon salt - large lemons, juice only Dee , PICCALILLI: 3 pounds green tomatoes 1 small cabbage « 2 pounds firm, red tomatoes %4 cup salt 2 tender heads of white celery 2 pints vinegar 2 onions 1% pounds brown sugar 3 cucumbers 1 level teaspoon mustard seed 1 red pepper 1 teaspoon whole cloves a 1 green pepper A dash of Cayenne Chop the vegetables, dredge the salt over them, and let stand over night. In the morning drain, pressing PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 665 the liquor out through a cheese-cloth. Put the vinegar, sugar, and spice in an enameled kettle over the fire, stir until sugar is dissolved, bring to a-boil, add the vege- tables, and when boiling remove to a slow fire to simmer 40 minutes or until the mixture has partly cleared. - Picealilli will keep indefinitely packed in hot steril- ized jars sealed with glass tops. PICKLED PEPPERS (MOCK MANGOES): Select bell peppers of even, rather medium, size. Using a sharp knife, cut from the stem ends a large circular slice, to be replaced later. Remove the seeds and partitions. Parboil the pepper and stems 10 min- utes. Drain and dip in cold water a few seconds, then remove skins. Chop some cabbage, sprinkle with salt, and let stand until morning. Next day press out the liquor through a cheese-cloth, add to the cabbage some mustard seed and grated horse-radish, mix well, then fill peppers with the mixture, replace the slices cut from stem ends, and tie each pepper with cord. Pack solidly in a stone jar or keg, and pour over pepper enough mild vinegar to keep peppers immersed by placing on top a tight-fitting wooden cover or dish. Keep 10 days in a eold, dry, dark place. MUSTARD PICKLES: 9 large cucumbers 2 red peppers 2 pounds small, tender, white ¥% cup mustard seed "onions . ¥% cup celery seed 2 pounds green tomatoes 1 small cauliflower 2 green peppers Select. some small, tender, white onions, peel, and leave them whole. Peel the cucumbers, remove the seed of the green peppers, and cut the vegetables into even, small pieces. Arrange in an earthen bowl, and pour over a brine made in the proportion of 14 cup of salt to each quart of water. Let stand over night and drain. Put 3 quarts. of water in a kettle over the fire, and when, boiling add the peppers. Cook 3 minutes. Lift out with the skimmer, then cook the other vegetables \ 666 THE FRENCH CHEF IN one after another separately, cooking the onions 5 min- utes and the cauliflower, tomatoes, and cucumbers each 2 minutes. Drain thoroughly. Arrange the drained vegetables in hot sterilized jars, dividing the different kinds of vegetables and the mustard and celery seeds equally between the jars. Then fill the jars with a hot Mustard Dressing, made as follows, and seal with glass tops. These pickles will keep indefinitely. Mustard Dressing: 1 ounce powdered mustard % pound sugar 1 tablespoon tumeric 2 quarts mild vinegar 5 cup flour : Mix and sift the dry ingredients together in a poree- lain-lined saucepan, and while beating or stirring over the fire, slowly add the boiling hot vinegar. Beat and cook until smooth, or about 2 minutes. Recipes for Pickled Fruits Peaches, pears, cherries, plums, figs, Tokay or other large grapes may be pickled. The grapes are usually left in bunches. Follow directions given for ‘‘ Pickled Peaches.’’ The syrup in which the fruits are cooked may be made in the proportion of 1 cup each of water and vinegar to 114 pounds sugar, with 14 cup of broken cinnamon sticks and either 1 teaspoon, of cloves or a single clove pressed into each piece of fruit. Occasion- ally, a teaspoon of either ginger root or mace is added to the syrup. When a stronger flavor is desired, make the syrup as above, only use 44 pint of vinegar to \& pint of water. The fruit is usually pricked with a carvirig fork to allow the syrup-to penetrate to center. Pears are peeled and dropped at once into cold water, with lemon juice added, so they may retain their color. PICKLED FIGS: Figs should bé used when about half ripe, and the stem is left on. Occasionally figs are pickled as follows: Soak over night in a brine of salt, using 14 cup of salt PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 667 to each gallon of water. Drain and wipe between towels. Parboil in a solution of water and alum, using a scant level teaspoon of, alum to each quart of water. Lift out with a skimmer, place in lime water solution, and let stand 10 minutes; then drain, and wash carefully in several cold waters. Put into hot sterilized jars, filling jars with a very strong vinegar syrup, boiling, and seal with glass tops. PICKLED PEACHES, FIRST METHOD: 12 to 14 pounds peaches ¥ cup broken cinnamon sticks 6 pounds sugar 2 tablespoons cloves ~ 1% pints mild vinegar A tablespoon of ginger root, 1 cup water if desired Put the vinegar, water, and sugar in an agateware kettle over the fire, stir until the sugar is dissolved, add- ing the spice, then bring to a boil. Rub the peaches with a coarse cloth, and prick them with a fork. If the skin is left on, they will keep their shape better, and the skin may then be removed when serving. Or, if skins have to be removed, scald a minute, immerse in cold water, and peel. Cook the peaches in the boiling syrup a few at a time, turning them occasionally so they cook evenly. Cook until tender. Have hot sterilized jars ready. Drain a jar and put the peaches in as soon as they are soft, one after another, replacing the cooked fruit with other fresh fruit, until the jars are all filled and fruit all used. Reduce the syrup so as to have just enough to fill jars to overflow- ing, dividing the spices equally between the jars. Seal: with glass tops. The hot peaches placed in the jars will shrink while the others are cooking, and will thus make room for additional fruit in each jar. PICKLED PEACHES, SECOND METHOD: Cook small batches of peaches at a time in same syrup and with same spice as in the previous recipe. Have at hand a stone jar, one that holds at least 2 gallons. Put the cooked fruit in the jar as soon as done. When all the peaches are cooked and arranged in jars, 668 THE FRENCH CHEF IN reduce the syrup until rather thick, pour it over the peaches,~and place on top a light close-fitting dish that will keep the fruit immersed without breaking its shape. Let stand a few days, then pour off the syrup and boil until thick. The peaches will have shrunk by this time, and they may all be put in the same jar. Pour the reduced syrup over the fruit and replace the dish on top as before, then tie over top of crock a strong, doubled, blank paper. ’ PICKLED CHERRIES: Boil for 10 minutes, together, 1 quart of cider vine- gar, 3 pounds of sugar, a tablespoon of whole cloves, and a broken cinnamon stick. Add some nice, large, pre- pared cherries, simmer a few minutes, and pack hot in hot sterilized glasses, dividing the spice between the jars. These will keep indefinitely when packed in hot steril- ized glasses, sealed with glass tops. ' ° PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 669 CHAPTER XXXVIII MISCELLANEOUS PRESERVATION OF Burrer—Preservine Eaas in ‘‘ WATER Guass’’—Preservine Eces in Lime anp Saut— Recipes ror Cookina CEREALS—ReEcires For Cor- FEE, TEA AND Cocoa—Recrpes ror Fruit Bever- AGES. Preservation of Butter Wass the butter is fresh, to each 10 pounds of butter, work in thoroughly 1 pound of fine salt. Pack solidly in an earthen crock, cover with salt, and keep closely covered in a cold, dry, dark place. Second Method: When the butter is already salted, arrange it in an earthen crock, leaviig it wrapped in its original water-tight paper, or if the butter be. sweet, work in to each 19 pounds of butter 1 cup of fine dairy salt. Divide it and press into solid square cakes of about 1 pound each. Arrange in crock as above. Then pour over a chilled salt brine that will float an egg,_ using enough brine to keep the article thoroughly im- mersed and placing on top a dish and small clean stone. The butter thus preserved should be of. first quality and put up, according to climate, at the end of June or at the beginning of July, usually just after the first hay harvest. Keep in a cold dark place well cov- ered. If at any time the brine gets a strong flavor, change brine, and make the new brine in the proportion of 314 pounds of salt to 1 gallon of water. . Preserving Eggs in “Water Glass” ‘“‘Water Glass’’ is a syrupy liquid which can be bought at the druggist’s or the grocery store, to preserve eggs. The eggs should be fresh and clean, and experience has proven that sterile eggs keep a much longer time than fertile eggs. Soiled eggs are not preserved. 670 THE FRENCH CHEF IN First Method: For about 10 dozen eggs, take 9 pints of water and bring to a boil, let it cool until just lukewarm, then beat in with a wire egg-beater 1 pint of Water Glass. Let stand until chilled in a cold place, then carefully pour it over the eggs arranged in a clean vessel, which can be either a jar, barrel, or crock. Keep closely covered to prevent the evaporation of the liquid, and take care to keep the eggs thoroughly immersed in a cold, dark place. Second Method: Make a solution as above, using 1 part of Water Glass to 3 parts of tepid water, then, using a wire basket holding a batch of eggs, immerse the eggs in the cooled solution to cover. Drain and allow the eggs to dry in a cold place. Repeat the same dipping ~ until eggs are screened with the dried article. Carefully pack in a crock buried in clean, dry bran or sawdust. Preserving Eggs in Lime and Salt* For 15 dozen eggs, add to 3 pounds of unslacked lime about 1 quart of water and let stand until slack. Mix thoroughly with 3 gallons of water and 114 pounds of salt, stir well, and allow it to settle. Pour off the clear solution and utilize it to preserve eggs. ~ Recipes for Cooking Cereals Cereals and wheat products made into mush or gruels are rich in food value. They all contain -protein and starch in different percentages. Oatmeal is the richest in protein, cereals are rich in starch, and corn- meal and oats are rich in fat, and as such are good fuel food; the latter are also entered in meals where only a small proportion of meat is used. Wheat products. are rich in starch and mineral salts, and as such make a perfect food for children. MUSH: Use 14 teaspoon salt to each pint of water. Put the salted water in the top pot of a double boiler, and when boiling, beating constantly with a wire egg-beater, gradu- ally dredge in the amount of meal that the liquid will * Professor J. B. Hayes, A. E. S., University of Wisconsin. 4 PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 671 absorb. Usually 1 pint of liquid will absorb 24 cup of meal, although this is variable. When boiling again, stir constantly with a wooden spatula until the mixture has thickened, then finish cooking in double boiler until thick and soft. 7 FRIED MUSH: 7 Turn 24 cup of grit hominy, cornmeal, etc., into 1 pint of boiling water -with 14 teaspoon of salt added, and cook until thick and soft, as-directed in preceding recipe. When done, pour into a wet pan, in a layer 2% inch thick, and let stand in a cold place until next morning. Cut into lozenges or squares, roll in milk and in flour, and fry in hot deep fat to a rich golden eolor. Drain on brown paper. Recipes for Coffee, Tea and Cocoa To make fine coffee, use a good brand and have it properly ground for the method desired. Always wash, rinse, and scald all utensils used in making coffee, be- fore setting them away. In the different methods of making coffee, the pro- portion of coffee to each cup of water should be governed by the strength desired. Of all ways of making coffee, the Drip Coffee method produces perhaps the smoothest beverage and the purest as to flavor. 4 The aromatic properties in coffee are entirely de- veloped by the roasting given the green bean. The various shades of color of roasted coffee have very little significance as to the difference in amount of caffein and tannin they contain. The pungent and delectable, appetizing flavor of coffee lies in the caffein it contains; the tannin is the objectionable element. It is desirable, therefore, to brew the drink in a manner that does not allow the water to stand too long a time in contact with the coffee grounds, as this will bring out the tannin, which, assimilated in the system, is undesirable and harmful. “he two methods recommended are the Drip Method and the Percolator Method. For the latter, directions are given when buying the percolator. 672 THE FRENCH CHEF IN DRIP COFFEE (Breakfast or Ordinary Beverage) : Use 114 tablespoons finely ground coffee for each cup of water, or more coffee if a strong drink is desired. Put the coffee im a flannel bag, adjusted on a wire ring to hold the bag at top of the pot, so that bag does not come in contact with the dripped coffee as it accumulates in the pot. Pour the boiling water rapidly through the bag, and after a minute fill a cup with the dripped liquor and pour it back again through the bag; repeat a third time if needed. The first ‘pouring extracts nearly half of the flavor and color, and two cups of the dripped liquid poured, under the boiling point, through the bag will extract most of the remaining flavor and color with- out much tannin. CAFE NOIR (After-Dinner Coffee): Proceed as directed for ‘‘Drip Coffee,’’ but use at least twice as much coffee for the same amount of water. TEA: * Put cold water in a kettle, bring to a boil, and boil 2 minutes. Seald the cleaned and rinsed teapot with hot water, pour out, then put in teapot, for a pint of weak tea, 1 teaspoon of tea leaves. Pour over boiling hot water, cover, and allow it to infuse 5 minutes. A too-long standing will render the tea strong and bitter. Afternoon tea is served with thin slices of lemon. When making. only one cup of tea, put a silver strainer on a cup, add 34 teaspoon of tea leaves, fill the cup with boiling water, and let stand until the liquid has assumed the desired color; then remove strainer. ICED TEA: Put 114 teaspoons of tea leaves into the scalded tea: pot, pour over 1 pint of boiling water, allow it to infuse 5 minutes, strain the tea into a bowl, and when cold pour it into a glass bowl, then add cracked ice and 1 tablespoon or more of strained lemon juice. . PRIVATE AMERICAN FAMILIES 673 BREAKFAST COCOA: 2 teaspoons cocoa ‘ ¥% eup boiling water 1 tablespoon sugar 1% eups scalded skimmed milk ‘ Stir the cocoa and sugar in a small saucepan. Con- tinue stirring while adding half of the water, set over the fire, stir with a wooden spatula while adding the remaining water, boil 3 minutes, then beat with a wire egg-beater while slowly adding the hot milk. Recipes for Fruit Beverages LEMONADE: % cup or 6 ounces sugar ¥Y%, cup lemon juice, strained % pint filtered water Iced water to suit Boil the water and sugar until clear. Remove from the fire, and add the lemon juice. When cold, strain into a lemonade bowl, and add iced water to suit the taste. Or, use Lemon Syrup and dilute with iced water. ORANGEADE: 4 oranges, rind only, shredded Y cup lemon juice 1 quart 30° sugar syrup ‘3 quarts filtered water 214 eups orange juice Add the orange rind to the hot syrup and let stand till cool. Add the fruit juice and the water. Strajn into | a freezer packed in salt and ice. Let stand 2 or 3 hours, occasionally detaching the ice adhering to sides of freezer. Serve in punch glasses. FRUIT PUNCH, I: 3 cups filtered water 1% cups chopped pineapple 11% cups sugar 3 oranges, juice only 2 lemons, juice only s Boil the water and sugar until clear, add the pine- apple, cook until tender, remove, and let cool, then add the fruit juice. Strain into a punch bowl, and dilute to suit the taste with filtered iced or mineral water. When ready to use add a piece of ice. 22 674. THE FRENCH CHEF IN FRUIT PUNCH, II: 1 cup sugar 1 eup grated pineapple 3% cup water 1% cups Currant or Raspberry Ryrup 8 oranges % pint tea infusion 5 lemons 1 quart Apollinaris Boil the water and sugar till clear, then let it cool. Put the pineapple in a punch bowl, add the strained juice of oranges and lemons, and the chilled tea and Syrups. When ready to use, add the chilled Apollinaris and a piece of ice. FRUIT PUNCH, III: A few minutes before serving-time, turn into a bowl 2 quarts of frozen Orange Ice, and add, all thoroughly chilled, over the ice,.the juice and diced pulp of 4 or 5 oranges and 4 quarts of ginger ale. This drink is very nice in summer. As a variation, if available, substitute for the ginger ale 2 quarts of. Sauterne. STEWED PRUNES: 2 Soak the prunes over night. Bring them toa boil and slowly simmer till plump and soft. Add 2 table- spoons of sugar and boil 3 minutes. Pour in a bowl, and add a few drops of lemon juice. Prunes hold.2.1 per cent protein, 73.3 per cent carbo- hydrates, 2.3 per cent mineral salt, 22.8 per cent water. MILK TOAST: Dilute very gradually 21, tablespoons of sifted flour with 314 tablespoons of water or milk, and strain. Put some water in a saucepan and pour it out. Pour in 1 pint of milk, add 14 teaspoon of salt and seald over a moderate fire. Add the diluted flour and beat con- stantly with a wire egg-beater until thickened and bub- bling. Remove to a slow fire where it slowly bubbles 10 minutes. Beat in a few bits of fine butter before dipping in pieces of toast, one at a time. When these are softened, arrange them on a hot serving dish, then strain over the remaining sauce. If preferred, the milk may be scalded in the double boiler as usual; but after the diluted flour has been added and mixture thickened, cook it, covered, for about 30 minutes.- “ INDEX PAGE Allemande Sauce .~. . 57 Almond and Pistachio Paste Land II . 627-8 —Macaroons. . . . 578 —Syrup . 631 ‘Almonds, Blanched, ete. . 578 —Salted . . . . 198 —Stuffed . . . . . 628 Anchovy Butter ‘ . 63 Angel Food (See Cake = Recipes) Apple Butter . . . . 202 —Charlotte . . . . 465 —Compote . . 485 —Dumpling, Baked . . 466 —Fritters .. 455 © —Gelatine, 4 la Suedoise 490 —Pies. . » . 528-5 —Pudding and Variation 460 —Roll.-. . . . . 464 —Sauce ... . . 484 —Tarts . . . . 5245 —Whip ... . . 483 Apples, Baked . . . . 485 Apricot 41a Mongole . . 455 —or Plum Souffé . . 457 Apricots, Candied . . . 626 Artichokes, Recipes for: —ala Barigoule. . . 136 —Boiled . 134 —Bottom and Cauliflower au Gratin. . 35 —Bottom, Cauliflower and String Beans . . 135 ‘-—Bottom Stuffed with Mushroom Purée_ . 137 —Bottoms and Hearts . 134 —Bottoms, Method of Serving . . . 136 —Hearts 4 la Frangaise . 135 —How to Prepare, ete. . 133 —Purée ... . . 137 —Ring. . . 137 Asparagus au Gratin | | 129 . —Boiled 128 —Diced, ‘A la " Frangaise 129 PAGE —-in Croustade . . . 129 —Supréme Sauce . . 128 —Timbale,I andII. . 130 —Tips a la Pompadour 129 —Tips, Artichoke Bot-' ~ tom and Cauliflower 131 —Tips, Boiled . . . 128 —Tips, Egg Sauce . . 128 —Tips, Hollandaise Sauce ; . . 128 Aspic or Meat Glaze | . 237 —Ornamentation of Molded . . . . 285 —Quick . 2... , 231 —Substitute . .°. . 52 Baba (See Cakes) “Bacon, How to Cook . . 325 —How to Slice . . . 325 Baking of Cake . . . 585 —of Puff Paste . . 518 Baking Powder Substitutes Banana Compote . . . 485 —Fritters oot Se «455 —Glazed . . . . , 466 -—Pudding . . . , 478. Bass, Striped Sabot 286 Batters .. 26 452- 3 Bavarian Cream, Recipes for: 4 ~..-—Choeolate . . . . 404 —Neapolitan - 1. 494 —Pineapple . . . . 493 —Rice go & e « 495 ~—Rubané™. . . ., 495 —Strawberry » 2 . 493 —Vanilla 2 . . 494 Beans & 1’Andalouse . . 170 —4 la Bretonne . . . 170 —Baked . . - 169 —Baked, Boston Style—. 402 —or Lentils Purée . , 170 i and Soda Mixtures 530 Beans, Shell, Different Ways A7A to Serve Boiled . : 127 —Preparation of Fresh 127 INDEX 676 PAGE , Beans, String: —a la Poulette . . . 127 —Boiled a ee ee —in Brown Sauce . . 126 —in Cream... . 126 —Mexidan 2 oe a BE? —Sauted . . . . . 126 —Spanish . . 127 Bearfnaise Sauce (See Sauces) Bechamel Sauce... 61 Beef . . - . 346 —a la Mode as, oS 352 —ala Polonaise. . 361 —au Gratin with Left- Over se ow 9 862 —Blanguette. . . . 358 —Boiled é . . 354 —Chili Con Carne . . 861 —Corned, and Cabbage . 356 —Corned, Boiled Hot . .356 —Corned, Cold . 356 —Croquettes . . . 860 —Dried, in Cream . . 357 —en Persillade . . 3862 ~ —Fillet, Braised. . 350 —Fillet Mignon, Sauted, Different Ways to Serve . 349 —Fillet Mignon, " Sauted with Marrow . 348 —Fillet, Rolled . . 852 —Hamburg Steak . . 350 —Hash . . . . 863 —Hash, Baked . . . 363 —Hash, Corned . 364 —Left-Over 358-64 ——Left-Over, Meat Pain with .. . 358 —Meat Loaf . . 855 —Miroton . . 360 —Mock Tenderloin, Mushroom Sauce . 350 —Mock Tenderloin, Por- tugaise 349 —Mock Tenderloin, Ros- sini. 350 —Mock Tenderloin with Stuffed Olives . . 350 PAGE —Pot Roast, Hints about 353 —Pot Roast, Sour . . 353 —Roast . 368 —Saneces to Re-heat Boiled Left-Over . 360 —Short Ribs, Baked . 354 —Stew 5 . . . 857 —Stew with ‘Dumplings 358 —Stew with Laft-Over 362 —Timbale »- . « . 3859 —To Re-heat Roasted or Braised . . . . 359 Beef Steak, Broiled . 346 —Broiled 4 la Berey . 347 —Broiled 4 la Bordelaise 347 —Broiled, Anchovy But- ter . f 348 —Broiled, Potatoes served with . . . 347 —Broiled, Sauces Served with . .. . . B47 —Broiled with Onions . 348 —Other Methods of Cooking .. 346 —Pan-Broiled . 847 —Pie with Left-Over . 363 —Rolled, Stuffed Flank 351 —Tenderloin, Chateau- briand . - . 348 Beef Tea for Invalids . 81° Beef Tongue, How to Corn and Pickle . 355 Beets, Boiled . . . . 146 —Pickled . . 146 —Sauted - . 146 —with Horse Radish . 146 Belgian Hare and Cotton ail, Roast . . 443 Roast, in Sour Cream 444 —Sauted 4 See. . . 444 Birds, Boning of, and Fowl 250 —How to Dress Wild . 436 Birthday Cake (See Cake Recipes) Biscuit and Shorteakes, Making » . 610 —Recipes for . . . 611 Biseuits, I and II . . 611 —Cinnamon 612 INDEX 677 PAGE PAGE —Raisin, Rolled . . 612 —Whole Wheat .. 594 —Rolled Oats . 596 Bride Cake (See Cake) Bisques, Chowders, etc., Brioche, Parisian . 566 Recipes for . . 100 Broiling or Grilling . . 20 Blane-Mange, Chocolate . 481 Broth, Mutton. . . . 80 —Cornstarch . . 481 Brown Sauces : (See Sauces) Boiled Dinner . 356 Brown Stock I . Boiled Frosting bi Frost- ings) Boiling Method . a A ae 128 —of Sugar . 615 “—of Sugar to the “*Crack’’ 616 Boning of Birds and Fowls 250 Bouthées . 340 Brains, Calves’, Recipes for 321 —au Gratin. . . . 322 —Boiled . 321 —Broiled . . 323 —Brown Butter Sauce . 322 —Cutlets ... . 322 —Filling for Patty Shells, ete. . 323 —Fried ; . 322 —in Mayonnaise . 238 Braising « . ey om ied —Sauted Meats. . 26 Bread, Baking of . . 593 —Dough, Direct . 592 —Dough, Made during the Day » « & 59L —Dough, Preparation of 590 —Kneading . 591-2 ——Making, General In- formation . . 587 —Shaping of Loaves . 592 —Sponges . . 588 and 591 —Stale and Broken Pieces of, Utilizing . . 10 —Yeasts and Sponge 588-90 Bread, Recipes for: —Boston Brown . . 595 —Graham . 594 —Nut. . 596 —Potato . 594 —Raisin . . 696 —Rolled Oats. . 095 —Rye . . 595 —White . 593 - —Stock IT (Emergency) 44 Brussels Sprouts, Boiled . 142 —Lemon and Orange Sauce . 143 —Method of Serving . 142 —Sauted . 142 Buckwheat Griddle Cakes . 608 Buns and Rolls . 597 —English, with or without Currants . . 565 —Hot Cross . . 599 Butter, Anchovy . . . 63 —Crawfish . . 63 —Lobster and Crab . . 68 —Maitre d’Hotel . . 64 —Mustard . .. . 64 —Paprika ; . . 64 —Ravigote or Green . 62 —Shrimp. . . . 63 Butter, Clarifying . » 28 —How to Cream si 39 —How to Wash . .. 516 —Preservation of _. 669 Butter Cream Fillings . . 557 Butter Fats. . . . . 37 Buttered Crumbs . . 89 Cabbage, au Gratin ,. . 141 —Boiled . . 138 —Braised . . 138 —Cold Slaw I . 141 —Cold Slaw II . . 223 —-in Cream 138 —Recipes for . 137 —Stuffed, I and Wt. 139- 40 —-Stufting for, I and II 139 —Timbale . 140 Cabbage, Purple, with ‘ Apples » 141 Cabinet Pudding, Banana . 459 —Bread . . 459 —French . . 459 Café Glacé . . 514 678 INDEX PAGE - PAGE Café Noir 672 Cakes, French, Fancy, Mer- Cake, Baking of . 535 ingue and Petits-Fours: —General Instructions . 529 —Angelica Sticks . 582 —Mixing Butter for . 534 —Baba ace So? —Mixing of Sponge and —Brioche, Parisian. . Savoy. . 533 —Chocolate Rock-Peak . 582 —To Prepare the Pan a aan > a for . 532 aa ~ Chan. Cake, Coffee . . 601 ee Eye ada Cham: 568 Cake Fillings 556-61 me , Cake Frostings 551-5 ints ae ae ee pues 8 , —English Buns with or Cake, Recipes for: without Currants 565 —Angel Food . 539 —Flan Meringué . 572 Spey . 550 —Fondant 581 —Bride . . . . 548 —Genoese : . 569 —Butter, Layer . . 541 —Gods’ Food . . 570 —Butter Loaf or Cap . 540 —Hawaiian, The . 572 —Christmas . 548 —Kisses, Coffee . . 577 Bok I and II . 543 —Kisses with Boiled —Chocolate Hlaugens . 543 Sugar. a 576 —Citron ‘ - . 544 -——Kisses with Dry Sugar 577 —Cookies . . 584 —Lady Fingers . . 540 —Cream Pie . . 541 —Langue de Chat . 574 —Devil . . | 545 —Macaroons & la Créme | —Ginger Bread, I and iT, Fondante . 579 Soft . 563 —Macaroons, Almond . 578 Ging: Bread, Hgglees a —Macaroons 4 1’Orange 578 —Graham , . 54 —Macaroons, Chocolate . -578 —Graham and Nut . . 547 —Massepains ‘ a 581 —Ice Cream : . 541 , —Massepains, Chocolate 581 BE es Baltimore - 545 ‘—Mocha . . . . 570 —Layer . 541 —Mousseline . . 569 —Molasses . 546 —Neapolitan . « . 575. a Begg Butter . 561 —Orange, for Tea . . 583 —Potato . . . 547 —Petits-Beurre . 580 Tee Little . . 547 —Petits-Fours, Almond- —Ribbon . 546 Dry . . . . 574 —Snow or Butter White, —Petits-Fours, Chocolate 577 2 ITand II. 542 —Petits- Fours, English -Spice .. 561 Tea” . . 575 —Sponge, XL ite and —Petits- -Fours, Foamy . 573 4 III ki gi —Petits-Fours, Sugar —Sponge, ocoa : 538 Paste : . 574 —Sponge, Drop ._ . 538 —Pistachio and Almond 571 —Sunshine . 539 —Pithivier . 572 —Wedding x~ . 549 —Queen Drops . 582 —Wedding, Inexpensive 562 —Savarin . 564 —Wine. . . 542 —Savoy - 570 ‘ INDEX 679 : PAGE —St. Honoré. . . . 571 —Sugar Paste for . 573 —Tea. . . . . 580 —Tea Crown, I and II 565-6 —Tét-Fait for Tea . . 580 —Wafers. . . . . 579 Cakes, Griddle, Recipes for. . 606-8 Cakes, Short-, Recipes for. ; 611-12 Calf’s Head & la Poulette 339 —a la Vinaigrette . . 338 —Boiled .. . . 338 —en Tortue, Cold | . 247 —en Tortue, Hot . . 339 Calf’s Heart, Broiled . . 829 —Stuffed 5 . 328 Calf’s Liver, Recipes for . 326 Calf’s Tongue (See Tongue) - Calves’ Brains (See Brains) Camembert Croquettes . . 345 Canapé Toast . . . 199 —Caviar . . . . . 199 —Cheese . . . 200 —Crab, Lobster « or Shrimps a. 3 200 ' —Garnishing with ‘Bges and Olives .. 199 ~—Meat or Fish. . . 200 —Sardines . . . . 199 —Smoked Herring . . 200 Candied Fruits and Fruits-Confits ; 624 —Apricots . . . . 626 —Chestnuts .. . 626 —Green Gage Plums. 625 —Orange Peel . . . 627 —Pears .. 626 Candy (See Confections) — Canned Mushrooms. . . 652 Canned Tomatoes . . . 653 Canned Tomato Paste-. . 653 Canning . .. - «+ 648 Canning: of Fruit |... 653 —Cold Pack Method . 656 —Grading of Syrups . 655 —Open Kettle Method . 654 —To Sterilize Jars and Rubbers . . . . 654 PAGE Canning of Vegetables . 649 —Blanching and Cold Drip Method . . 650 —Cold Pack Method . 650 —Intermittent Sterilizs- tion . . 652 —One-Day . Sterilization 651 —Packing in Jars . . 651 Caramel Candy (See Con- fections) —for Coloring . . . 38 —Syrup . 3 . 630 Carbohydrates, The.'. . 13 Cardinal Sauce. .,. . 61 Cardon au Gratin . .~. 145 Carrots, Recipes for: —a la Parisienne . . 123 —ala Poulette . . 124 —a la Vichy . 123 —and Green Peas Sauted 123 —and Peas in Cream . 124 —Boiled . . . . . 122 —Glazed . . . .) . 124 --in Cream . . « 128 —Purée . .. . . 124 —Sauted .. . . 123 Case Shells or Petits- Patés . . « . 340 —Filling . . . . 340 —Fowl and Game in . 341 Cauliflower, au Gratin . 132 —Boiled . . . . . 131 —Fritters - . 133 —-Hollandaise Sauce . 132 —in Cream . . . 132 —Maitre d’Hotel. . . 132 —Sauted with Left-Over 132 —Selection of, ete. . . 131 —Timbale ee we HBB Celery, Recipes for: —au Gratin. . . . 144 —Braised. . . . . 148 —Fritters ; . . 145 —Stuffed .. 145 —with Marrow, I and II 144 Celery Root, Boiled . . 145 _ —Salad (See Salads) Cereals, Recipes for . . 670 Charlotte Russe, How to Line Mold for . . 496 680 ' INDEX ‘ . PAGE Charlotte Russe, oe for: —Angel é . 497 —Mocha Shartl els 3498) —Neapolitan - . « 496 —Neapolitan, Chocolate 497 —Orange without Cream 498 Chaudfroid and their Dec- oration with Aspic . 236 —Chicken : 240 —Chicken 4 la Parisienne 241 Chaudfroid Sauee (See — Sauces) Cheese, Cottage. . . . 220 —Flan 4 la Suisse . . 344 —Soufflé > « 3 4.13843 —Straw . . . . . 842 Cherries, Pickled . . . 668 Chestnut Purée . . . 154 —Stuffing : 413 Chestnuts, Candied . : 626 —for Garnishings . . 154 Chicken Cream Forcemeat . 256 —Cream Forcemeat Border. . 425 —Forcemeat, Bread Panada . . . 257 —Forcemeat, Flour Panada . ... 257 Chicken Entrées with Left- Overs: —a la Marengo. . . 427 —a la Poulette » « 427 —a la Villeroy . . . 428 —Baltimore . . . . 428 —Cromesquis 3 429 —Croquettes, I and TI 428-9 —Delmonico . . . » 426 —Fried Left-Over, Fricassée . 2. . 427 —Pie with Left-Over . 430 —Rissole . . . 428 —Sealloped or Diced in Cream... . 427 —Soufflé . » . . 429 Chicken, General Instrue- tions for Roast . 410 —General Instructions to Dress for Broiling . 408 / PAGE —General Instructions as to Selecting, Pick- ing, Cleaning, Dis- jointing, and Carv- ing the Cooked Bird, ete. . 405-8 Chicken Glaze . . . 58 Chicken Gravy for Roast Chicken . . . . 411 Chicken, Recipes for: —& la Chevaliére . . 420 —iala Maryland. . . 418 —ai la Montmorency . 417 —a la Valencienne.. . 415 —Broiled and Panned- . 413 —Broiled, Taragon Sauce 414- - —Chaudfroid c 240 —UChaudfroid A la Par- isienne . . . 241 —Country Style. . . 419 —Curried. . . . . 421 —en'Casserole . . . 419 —Fillets of, in Aspic . 242 —Fricassée, I and II 417-18 —in Aspie * . 242 —in Cream for Filling of Patty Shells . 4247 —in Daube . . . 414 —in Ramequins. . . 424 —tiver, Brochette . . 424 —Liver, Sauted .. 424 —Medallion Aspic Chauda- froid - . « . 240 —Mousse. .. .. . 425 —Mousse A la PRES ene 243 —Pie. . - . 423 —Roast, Stuffed . . . 412 —Roast, without Stuff- ing - . . 410 —Sauted a la “Tyrolienne 423 —Sauted 4 Sec. . 422 —Sauted with Artichoke 422 —Squab Roasted . . 412 —Tamales s % « «» 426 —Timbale, I, II, and Ill. » 2 424-5 —with Green "Peas . 421 —with Rice . . . . 416 Chicken, Sauces to Re-heat Ineft-Over . . . 430 INDEX 681 PAGE PAGE Chicken Stock, I and Colbert Sauce (See Sauces) - II. . . 80 and 412 Compotes: é Chicken Stuffing, I, II, —Apple . . . . . 485 and III. . . 409-10 —Banana. .. .. . 485 —Stuffing, Chestnut. . 413 —Gooseberry . . . 486 —Stuffing, Oyster . . 412 —Orange. . . . . 486 Chops 4 la Maintenon, —Rhubarb . . . . 486 ITand II. . 377-8 —Strawberry . . «486 —a la-Venison . 378 Confections, General In- —Broiled French Mutton structions: __orLamb. . . . 376 —Boiling Sugar for. . 615 —English Mutton . . 875 —Boiling Sugar to the —French, Broiled 4 ‘Crack’? . 616 VItalienne . . . 377. —Degrees of fling —French, Crumbed . 377 Sugar. 614 —in Paper Cases . 382 —Dipping in Chocolate —Pan-Broiled . . . 376 and in Fondant . 620 —Sauted . . 379 —KEgrets, to Shape. . 617 Chou Paste for Puff Case 342 —Fondant . . . . 616 Chowders . . . 100 —Frosting for Candied Chutney “ey oo. . 664 and Fresh Fruit . 629 Clams au Gratin. . 804 —Spinning Sugar(Spun) 617 —Baked in Shell. . . 305 Confections, Recipes for: —Fried . 305 —Almond or Pistachio —Little Neék, Baked on Paste, I and II 627-8 Half- Shell —_- 804 —Butter Cups... . 621 —on~ Half-Shell . . . 304 —Candied Fruits and —Steamed ... . 304 Fruits-Confits . 624-7 Cocktail, Fruit. . . . 198 —Caramel, Chocolate, © —Oyster . . . . 298 Soft . . . . . 618 Cocoa, Breakfast . . . 673 —Caramel, Coffee .. . 619 Cocoanut Fritters . . .° 455, —Caramel, Transparent 619 Cod Fish, Fresh: —Caramel, Vanilla 4 la —Baked, Stuffed . . 285 Créme . 619 —Poached . oe 284 —Fruit Bar Candy . . 621 Cod Fish, Salted: —Honey Candy . . . 620 .—&i la Lyonnaise . . 309 —Molasses Candy. 621 —a la Maitre d’Hotel . 309 —Nougat . . . . 618 —au Gratin. . . . 308 —Nougat, French —Balls ... . . 309 (Molded in Basket, —Family Style . . . 309 ete.) . . 617 —in Cream . . . 808 —Peanut Brittle . ,. 623 Coffee, Tea and Cocoa, —Pecan and Walnut Recipes for 671 Chocolate eu 620 Coffee, After Dinner, Black —Pinoche . . . 620 or Café Noir . . 672 <-—Praline Glacé . A2Q2 —Drip ee we ae oe OF —Pralines ; . 622 Coffee Cake. . . . . 601 —Stuffed Almonds . . 628 —Quick . . . . . 602 —Stuffed Walnuts . 629 # 682 INDEX PAGE PAGE Consommés (See Soups) —as a Substitute for Cookies: Butter. 531 —Angelica Sticks . 582 —Fillings (See Fillings) —Fondant , . 581 —Fried . ‘ 467 —Ginger Snaps . . 585 —Mocha, Chantilly . « 483 —Ginger, Soft . 584 Cream, Bavarian . 493 —Hermits . 586 —Choceolate . 494 —Lemon . 586 —Neapolitan . 494 —Molasses . 585 —Pineapple . 493 —Nutmeg . 584 —Rice . 495 —Orange, for Tea... . 583 —Rubané . . 495 —Petits-Beurre . 580 —Strawberry . 493 —Queen . . 585 —Vanilla . . 494 —Rolled Oats . 584 Cream Forcemeat, Chicken 256 —Spice . 586 —Fish, Iand II. 257-8 Corn, Sweet: : —Veal 258 —au Gratin . 167 Cream Sauces (See Sauces) —Boiled . 166 Cream Soups (See Soups) —Fritters . 167. Cream, Whipped . 481 —Stewed . . . 166 —Various Desserts of . 483 Corned Beef (See Beet) Croquettes . 34 Cornmeal Jems. . . 604 Croustade, Bread: . 341 Cottage Cheese . . 220 —Hominy . 341 Cottage Cheese Salad (See —Marrow . 342 Salads) Croutons . 105 Cotton Tail Rabbit . 443-4 —French Garnishing . 105 Court-Bouillon . . . 262 —Jellied and Aspie . . 230 Crab Salad (See Salads) —Spinach and Other 7 Crabs, Hard-shell . . . 295 Vegetable . 149 —and Lobster Butter . 63 Crullers ‘ . 603 —Bisque 104. Crumbs, Buttered . 39 —Boiled . . . 296 —How to Make . . 10 —Filling for Patty Cucumber Purée 155 Shells, ete. . 296 Cucumber Salad (See —Timbales . 296 Salads) Crabs, Hard-shell, How to Cucunibers, Stuffed . 155 Clean : 296 Currant Jelly . 2. 642 Crabs, Soft-shell, Broiled . 297 Currant or Raspberry —Fried 296 Syrup. . . 631 Crackers and Cheese Served 7 Custards, Recipes for: with Soup - . . 106 —Caramel . 475 —Served with Salad . 342 —Chodeolate . 476 Crackers, Crisp . 105 —Creamy . 476 Cranberry Jelly . . 644 —Data . . 477 —BSauce . 72 —Orange Meri ingue . . ATT Crawfish, Boiled . 297 —Rice. . . 476 —Butter 63 Daubing. . . 27 —Coulis Preparation 64 Demi-Glaze or Half-Glaze » (52 Cream 37 Dinner Menu, a Sample INDEX 683 PAGE Home ‘ . 18 —a Typical Reception . 15 Dipping in Chocolate and in Fondant . . .. 620 Dough, Preparation of Bread . . . . 590 Doughnuts, Quick . . . 603 —Raised . . . . 602 Dress and Clean Chicken, ~ How to. . 405 —a; Chicken for Broiling, To - + « « 408 —Wild Birds, How to . 436 Dressings (See Salads) Dripping Sol ee oe ee ae OO —Clarifying .. . . . 30 Duck, Tame, Recipes for: —Braised a oe « BD —Braised with Cherries 435 —Braised with Oranges 436 —Roast . . . . . 434 —Paté, Cold. . . . 247 —Stuffing for, Liver . 434 —Stuffing for, Potato . 433 Duckling 4 la Rouennaise . 436 —Timbale 4 la Francaise 248 Duck, Wild, Recipes for . 436 '—Roast . . . .. . 487 —Salmi_. , 437 Dumplings, Beef Stew with 358 Eclairs .. . . 568 Efficiency and Economy . 3 Egg Bal .. . . 106 —Custard for Soup Gar- nishing . 104 Egg Salad (See Salads) Egg Sauce (See Sauces) Egging and Crumbing. . 33 Eggs, Preserving in Lime and Salt. . . . 670 —Preserving in Water Glass... . 669 Egg-White, to Beat to a Stiff-Dry Froth . 533 Eggs, Recipes for: —4 l’Aurore. . . . 182 —a la Maitre d’Hotel . 180 —and Spinach . . . 182 —au Gratin. . . . 181 ~ \ Mo _ PAGE —au Gratin with An- chovy i ys ep a 82 —Bagration . .. .. . 181 —Benedict . . . . 185 —Boiled, Hard . . 179 —Boiled, Hard, Baked . 180 —Boiled, Soft” ~ « oo EID —Brown. Butter. . . 183 —Canada. . . . . 185 —Castellane . . .. . 181 —Croquette . . . . 187 —de Lesseps : . . -. 190 —Fried . . . . . 182 —Grand-Duc . . . . 190 —Ham and... . 183 —in White Sauce . . 180 —Lackmée .. . . 184 —Leontine . . .. . 186 —Marie Louise . . . 184 —Mignon ne) Go 84 —Miranda ~ . . 185 —Montebello . . . . 187 —Poached, Chestnut ; Purée ‘ . 187 —Poached, Dauphine . 186 —Poached, Different Ways to Serve .. . 186 —Poached, Maryland . 186 —Poached on Toast. .,183 ° —Poached, with Corned Beef Hash . . . 186 —-Princesse . . . 184 —Scrambled aux Fines Herbes . . 188 —Scrambled, Livingston 189 —Serambled with Ba- nanas ‘ 189 —Scrambled” with Cheese 188 —Scrambled. with Ham 188 —Scrambled with Left- Over Meat . . 189 —Scrambled with Left- Overs 3 189 —Scrambled with Mush- rooms . 188 —Scerambled with Vexe- . tables . . lg 189 —Shirred. . . . 190 —Stuffed, Hyied «.. » Ll 684 INDEX 2 PAGE PAGE —Valdimir ‘ . 190 —in Cream . 310 Egg Plant, Broiled . . 164 Fish, Desirable Informa- —Fried .. . . 164 tion about . . . 7 —wNeapolitan . . 163 —How to Bone . . 261 —Opera . . 164 —How to Clean . 260 —Stuffed . . 165 —How to Remove the Endive Glazed . 166 Fillets of . 261 Entrées 16-17 —How to Skin . . 260 —Cold . 2385 Fish Cream Forcemeat, : Espagnole Sauce 44 ITand II. 267-8 Fats and Vitamines . 13 —Forcemeat, I and II 267-8 Fats, Care of, after Fry- —Foreemeat with Left- ing . 33 Over . . 311 —Trying Out or Ren- Fish... . 260 dering . 3l —Bakeéd : . 264 —Used in Frying ‘ 32 —Blue, Baked .. 286 Fillet, Mignon of Beef —Blue, Baked Fillet of 287 Sauted with Mar- —Boiled or Poached’ . 262 row. . 348 —Broiled . 263 —Ways to Serve | ‘ 349 . —Cold_ . 252 Fillet a Chicken, How to . 408 —Cold, a la Vinaigrette 313 —of Fish, How to Re- —Cutlets . . 289 move the 261 —Fillets 4 la Duchesse . 279 Fillings: —Fried ‘ - « 265 —Almond or Pistachio —Fried Fillet of : 278 Cream . 5B7 —Fried Fillet 4 la Only 279 —Apple “ . 560 PIC: a 289 —Butter Cream . . 557 —Planked . 266 “Chocolate Cream . . 557 —Ring . 289, —Coconut . 5ST — Rolled Fillet of . 261 —Cream . 556 —Rolled Fillet a la —Créme au Beurre or Mornay . 278 Butter een .' . 556 —Sauted . 266 —Fig. . . 560 —Steamed 264 —Foamy Cream, or —Timbale, I and Ic 287- 8 Crémes Mousseuses 558 Fish, Salted, Recipes for . 308 —Gelatine Creamy . . 560 Fish Stew Garnishing . . 267 —ILemon, I and II. . 559 Fish Stock (See Stocks) —Maple .. - 560 Fish Stuffing, I andII. .-269 —Marshmallow . 559 —Oyster Stuffing for . 269 —Mocha Cream 557 Fish, Left-Over: —Mocha Cream, Foamy 558 —Cold, 4 la Vinaigrette 313 —Orange . . 560 —Croquettes . ,. 7312 —Orange or Lemon —Forcemeat . . 811 Cream . 559°. _Fried, Quenelles . 311 — Pineapple ‘ 561 —Hash : . 312 Financiére Garnishing Stew _ 54 —In Cream ,' . 812 —Filling . 54 —in Cream with Potato Finnan Haddie, Broiled . 310 Ring . . 312 INDEX 685 PAGE PAGE —in Shell . . 813 —Fondant . 616 —Poached, Quenelles, —French . 553 ITandIT. .. . 3ll —Fruit Juice . 552 Flavor Aaa Economy, How —Gelatine . 554 . . @ 581 —Honey . 553 Floating Island Pudding . 476 —Italian Meringue . 555 Flounders, Soles and , —Mocha * . 554 Sandabs . . 277 —Orange . 554 Floured Butter. . . . 35 —Royal . . 554 Fondant . ‘< . 616 Frosting Candied and Fresh Food, Preservation | of . 8 Fruit 629 —Utilizing Left-Overs Fruit, Canning of . 653 and Trimmings of . 10 Fruit Cocktail . 198 Forcemeat . . . 255 Fruit Jellies, Marmalades. —Chicken Bread and Jams . 637-47 Panada . 257 Fruit Juices, Beverages, —Chicken Cream. 256 Making of .. . 634 —-Chicken Flour Panada 257 —Bottling and Steriliz- —Fish, I and IT 267-8 ing . . 635 —Fish’ Cream, I end II 267-8 —tTheir Uses . . 634 —Game ‘ 258 Fruit, Pickled, Recipes : —Veal . 258 for. 666 —vVeal Cream . 258 Fruit, Preparation ‘of, "for Foundation Cream Soup . 77 the Table . 633 —Sauces . 42 Fruit Punches . . 673-4 —Thickened Fish Stock 101 Fruits, Stuffed (See Con- —Thickened Stock . . 77 fections) Fowl or Game in Case 341 Frying and Fryer. . 31 Freezing weal Method —Care of Fat After . 33 of ; . 500 —Fats Used in. . . 382 French Croutons et 105 French Dressing, I and II 208 French Pancakes . 468 French Toast . . 468 Frieasseed Meats . . . 28 Fritters, Queen. . 456 Frog Legs 4 la Poulette . 307 Fried . 307 Frostings: —Almond Meringue Paste é 554 —Boiled White . 551 —Caramel ee . 552 —Chocolate, Boiled . 552 —Chocolate, Eggless, Boiled. . 552 —Chocolate, Plain . 552 —Coffee, for Small ae 555 —-Confectioners’ . 551 —Heat Required and : Care of Fat ‘Be- fore . 32 Frying Fish, Care of Fat. After : 266 Game Stock e Gal. tg hd Garnishing, Celery . . 148 —Chestunuts . 154, —Chicken or Tongue Medallion . 240 —Fish Stew . . 267 —French Crouton . 105 —Jellied or Aspic Crouton . 230 —Radishes \ . 197 —Soups . 104 —Spinach’ ‘and other Vegetable Croutons 149 —with Quartered Lemon 278 686 INDEX PAGE Gelatine Desserts, Rule for Making . . . . 487 Gems and Muffins » . 600-6 General Information for the Cook. .... . JI Ginger Breads . . . . 562 Glaze or Aspic . . . 237 —Chicken zs oon BS —Demi- or Halt- - . 52 —Substitute . . . 52 Goose, How to Select a . 432 Goose, Left-Over, Broiled . 434 Goose, Liver Stuffing for . 434 —Potato Bnunne for . 433 —Roast .. . 433 —Salmi. .. . . 484 Goulash . i . . 858 Grape Juice. . . . . 636 Gravy for Roast . . . 366 —for Roast Chicken . .. 411 Green Coloring for Sauces, ete. . 72 Griddle Cakes, Recipes for: —Bread Crumbs. . . 608 —Buckwheat. . . . 608 —Corn Meal. . . . 608 —Rice ~ « «» « « 608 —Sour Milk. . . . 607 —Sweet Milkk. . . . 607 Grouse, Roast . . . . 438 Gum Arabie Syrup . . 630 Haddock, Baked . . . 285 —Poached . . . 285 Half- or Demi-Glaze wo» @ #08 Ham, 4 1’Italienne. . . 404 —Boiled . . . ... 403 —Glazed . . . 404 —Jellied, Macedoine | Salad . ee). 246 —Mousse. ... 243 Hare and Rabbit .. 443-4 Hash, Beef. . . . . 363 —Corned Beef . . . 364 —Fish ¢ oh Je . . 305 Cream . 482 —au Gratin . /. 306 —Unelassified . 25 —Mariniére . 805 Milk, Cream, and Butter, Mustard Butter . 64 and Values . . 87 Mustard Mixing . 389 Milk Toast . . . 674 Mustard Pickles . . . 665 Milk, to Seald . - 39 Mutton and Lamb, Left- Mince Meat 527 Over: ~ Mineral Salts eo i —A la Polonaise . . B85 Mirepoix Preparation . 24 —Chili Con Carne . . 386 Mixing... . 36 —Croquettes . 885 Mocha Cream Chantilly . 483 —Curried . . 386 Molding of Frozen Mix- —Diced in Cream. . 385 tures. . 500 —Individual Pie : . 386 Mousse, Chicken, & la Par- —Miroton . 386 isienne . . . 243 —Scallops au Gratin | 385 —Cold Entrées . 238 —Stew . . 386 ' —Ham © oe . 243 —Ways of Utilizing 384 —of Foie-Gras° . - 251 Mutton and Lamb, Recipes Mousses and Miscellane- for: ous Frozen Desserts 508 —Breast of, Broiled . . 375 —Fruit . » +» 509 —Chops (See Chops) —wNougatine . 508 —Fillet Mignon a la Muffins and Gems: Signora . . 379 —Bran 6045 . _Fillet Mignon Sauted, —Cornmeal . 604 Colbert . 379 —English . - 600 —Leg of, Boiled. . . 375 —Graham . ie —Leg of, Braised & la —Plain . - 60 Alexander Dumas . 374 —Raised White Flour . 606 —Leg of, Roast . . 369 —Rye _ : ae —Leg of, Roast, 4 la Mush. - : i 11 Venison . 369 —Fried —Noisette & la Polo- Mushrooms, Dry, How to naise . . . . 382 Use - 175 _gaddle of, Roast . . 370, —Preparation of, ‘for 4 —Shoulder of, Braised 375 Cooking 60 —Stew a la Francaise . 384 Mushrooms, Recipes for: —Stew, Curried . . 384 —Blanched - 160 _$tew, Irish . 383 —Broiled . - §o5.«—S« Stew, Jardiniére 384 -—Canned hooks : A —Stew with Dumplings . 383 —Caps, Stuffed . . Mutton Tails, Braised . . 332 —Caps, Stuffed with Rice- Noodles 177 - Soubise 161 oo 617 —in Cream . . « . 162 Nougats. . . —in Croustade . 162 Olive and Vegetal Oils . 206 —Purée . 163 Olives, How to Keep . . 198 —Sauted . 162 Olives, Stuffed . . 259 690 INDEX PAGE PAGE Omelets: —in Cream . 152 —Berry . 195 —Sauted .. . 151 —Celestine . . 196 Oyster Stuffing, for Fish . 269 —Crab or Lobster . . 194 —for Fowl .. . 412 —Creole : . 193 Oysters: —French . . 191- —a la Montmarte . 800 —Fruit . 196 —a la Poulette . . 301 —SJelly . 195 —a la Union League —Lemon . 196 Club. . . . 300 —Mushroom . 194 —and Corn Fritters ‘ 303 —Oyster . 193 —au Gratin . . . 304 —Potato . 194 —Baked in Shell . . 300 —Shrimp . . 194 —Bisque . 103 —Spanish 193 —Broiled . . 301 —Sweet Puffed, Founda- ‘ —Cromesquis . . 302 tion .. 194 —Croquettes . . 803 —Vegetable ; 193 —Fried- 299 —with Cheese . 193 —in Cream for Fillings 302 —with Greens 192 —Mignonette Sauce for 298 —with Ham. . 192 —on Half-Shell . . 298 —with Left-Overs . 193 —Panned . 301 “Omelette Souffiée . 456 —Parboiled, and Sauces Onions, Recipes for: to Re-heat . . 802 —Au Jus. . 151 —Soup (See Oey —Boiled in Cream . 150 —Stew . . 103 —Glazed . 150 —Timbale . . 308 —Pickled - 663 Oysters, Mock, Fried | | 300 —Sauted . 151 Panada, Bread . ; 255 —Stuffed . 151 —Flour 2 . 255 Orangeade : 673 Pancakes, French Sugar . 468 Orange and Lemon ‘Flavor- —German . 469 ing . 532 —Suzette . . 469 Orange Custard Meringue . 477 —with Jelly . . 468 Orange Jelly . . . 488 Panned Steak or Chops 21 Orange Marmalade. . . 646 Paprika Butter . 64 Orange Peel, Candied . . 627 Parfaits . . 506 Orange Syrup_. ‘ 631 —Chocolate . 507 Ornamentation of Molded —Coffee . 507 Aspic.. . 235_ —Maple . 507 Oven Heat, Grades of . . 535 —Quick . 507 Oxtail, Broiled . . 332 —Vanilla . 507 —Fried . 331 Parker House Rolls 598- 7 ” —Stewed .. 331 Parmesan Pate 4 Chou . 106: Oxtail Soup (See Soups) Parsley, Fried . . 286 Oyster Cocktail, I and II 298-9 —to Chop ae 38 Oyster Plant . . . 151 Parsnips, Recipes for: —a la Poulette . . 152 —Cakes ‘ . 153 ~-—au Gratin . . 152 —Fritters . 153 —Cakes . 152 —in Cream . 153 — Fritters . 152 -—Mashed . 3 153 INDEX 691 PAGE —Sauted . 153 Partridge ; .. 440 —aux Choux. . . . 440 Paste, Chou, for Puff Case 342 —tLining, I and II. .. 520 —Pie, Flaky . . 523 —Pie, Plain . 522 —Puff . 516 —Sugar . 573 Pastry Bag and Tube, How to Use . i 35 Pastry, General Rules » 4 | 515 Patty Shells or Patties . 518 —How to Serve. . . 340 Pea Soup (See Soups) Peas, Green . 119 —a la Frangaise, ‘I and. II 3 . .. 120 —a 1’ Anglaise . 121 —Boiled 121 —Canned, 4 la Francaise 121 —in Cream . 121 —Purée ¥ 121 —Purée Border . . 122 —Ring.. . . 122 —Sweetening of . . 120 Peach Timbale . . . 465 Peaches 4 la Melba . . 505 —Pickled ~ . . -. 667 Pepper as Seasoning . 36 Pepper-corn and Substitute 36 Peppers, Green. . 158 —Pickled, Mock Mangoes 665 —Spanish Style . . 159 —Stuffed . . . 159 Pheasant, How to Cook . 432 Philadelphia Relish . 299 Picealilh es 664 Pickled Fruits, Recipes for: —Cherries 668 —Figs. 666 —Onions . 663 —Peaches . 667 —Peppers . 665 —Tomatoes . . 663 —Tomatoes, Green . . 664 Pickles, Dill . . 663 —Mustard . 665 —Sour Cucumber . 662 . 662 —Sweet Cucumber PAGE Pickling . 661 Pie, How. to ‘Make ‘and Hints about Pastry 521 —Flaky Paste. . . 523 —Plain Paste . . . 522 Pies, Recipes for: —Apple .. . 523 —Chocolate Cream . . 525 —Cranberry . . . . 526 —Cream . . . 525 —Lemon, I and II . . 526 —Lemon Apple. - 525 —Mince Meat, I and II 527 —Pumpkin ‘ . .526 Pigeons and Squabs: —au Gratin with Left- Over. . . . . 447 —Braised foe ow a AED —Broiled 7 . 445 —Fillet of, a la Par- isienne. . . 448 —Gratin Stuffing | wt ae, SBT =Pie . . ets 449 —Roast Squab oi 446 —Roast, Ways of Serving 446 —Sauce to Re-heat Left- Over... . 447 —Squab Cutlets. . * 451 —Squab in Paper Cases . 450. —Stock ... . . 446 Pig, Roast Suckling . . B72 Pig’s Feet, Broiled . . 338 Pig’s Head, Boiled . . 402 Pig’s Head "Cheese... 251 Pig Tails with melt Pea Purée ar 332 Pinoche .. s» « xy 620 Planked Fish... . 266 Plums, Candied Green- _ Gage. . .). . 625 Poaching : »s = « 28 Polenta . . . . . 843 Pop-Overs. 604 Pork and Beans, Boston Style... . 402, Pork, Recipes for: —Chops ‘ . . 400 —Chops and ‘Apples . . 400 Head, Boiled . . . 402 -—Head Cheese . . . 251 692 INDEX \ PAGE PAGE —Fillet, Roast . . . 372 —Croquettes . . . . 119 —Left- -Over, Deviled . 403 —Glaced . . . . . 119 —Roast . . 371 —Mashed. .. . . 118 —Spare Ribs, Boiled . 402 —Puffed .. . . 119 —Spare Ribs, Broiled . 402 —Southern Style . . 119 —Sausage a la Gastro- Poulette Sauce. . . . 60 nome . . 401 Praline Powder. . . . 503 —Sausage and Apples . 401 Pralines . » % 3 « 622 —Sausage, Boiled . . 401 —Glacé. . 623 —Sausage Meat Prepa- Preservation of Vegetables: ration. 401 _ Fermentation in Brine 660 Potate ‘Cake with Lett- —Dry Salt Method. . 658 Over . . . 116 ~—In Strong Brine . . 659 Potato Griddle Cake . . 117 Proteins. . = 3 12 Potato Socle . . . . 118 Prunes, Stewed. . | | 674 Potato Timbale. . . . 112 saci: Ste (See P Reci: for? auces eee Pe SOT 414 Puddings, Cold: —au Gratin, I and II . 113 Banana. . . 478 —Baked . . 1415 —Blane-Mange, Choe- —Baked Brown. . . 114 ._olate . - 481 —Baked en Surprise. 116 —Blane- “Mange, Corn- —Boilled yo. 4 + ~ 116 RUAREH (ce 481 Chateaubriand | | 11g Custard (See Custard) —Croquette . . . . 111 —Flan, Almond Cream . 480 —in Cream "445 —Flan, Chocolate Cream. 481 —Delmonico | | | | 11g ~loating Island . . 476 —Duchess TTT Fy ~—Junket, Caramel . . 480 —Early, in Cream . _ 115 —Junket, Custard . . 480 —Karly, Sauted. . . 114 —Rice, Jellied, Apricot —French Fried . . | 110 eo 400 —Lyonnaise . . 112 a eee eed au Coe ae : feat <2 a ante Raisin, with Left —O’ ce ek er. . « # 9 eae BN ists «oy un oe in Glass . | 484 : : ago é s « 498 =a iad Maitre ‘ag ee Jellied . . . 492 —Polted, Land If. 142 puadinee Frocear —Rose . . . 118 Dish : ae —Saratoga Chips . . 110 ~Madeles, we. 2. 505 —Steamed . . 116 — ‘Néaselrode Ann a ee a la Parisi- Puddings, Hot: : pais A = _ 117 —Apple Charlotte . . 465 re weet, Recipes —Apple and Variation . 460 Oe —Cabinet, Banana . . 459 —Baked . . . . . 118 —Cabinet, Bread . . 459 —Boiled . . . . ., 118 —Cabinet, French . . 459 INDEX 693 PAGE PAGE —Cottage . - . 461 —Croquettes, Sweet . . 467 —Cottage, Peach . 461 —Cutlets with Left-Over 173 —Date or Phankagiving 462 —Fritters eos: pits wae LG BYE) ie i: +462 —Pilaf . . » WA Frat, Poor ‘Man’ 8 . 460 —Pudding (See Puddings) —Plum, English . . 463 —Rissoto and Pilaf. . 171 —Plum, Inexpensive . 463 -—Timbale . . 172 —Plum, Left-Over . 464 —Timbale, Apricot . . 490 —Plum, Plain . 463 —Timbale, Cheese . . 173 —Queen |, . 458 Ring, Vegetable . . . 147 —Raisin . 464 Rissole, Chicken . 428 —Snuet . 461 Rissoto . . . . . . 171 iff Paste . . . 516 Roast, The. . . . . 17 —Baking of . 518 —Gravy for . 366 affs, Little, or Petits’ Roast Chicken, General In- Feuilletés . . . 519 structions for . 410 anch @ la Romaine . 514 —Gravy for. . 411 —Fruit, I, II, and III 673- 4 Roasted Meats, General In- aail, Broiled 439 structions . 365 —en Casserole . 439 Roasting Siete oly ele. —Roast . 438 Rolls, Hints about . . 597 —Salmi : . , 439 Rolls, Recipes for: —Seallops in Case. . 341 —Cinnamon . . . . 601 —Sonfilé- 2 oe we 440 —Clover Leaf . . . 598 uenelles 5 . . 256 —Crescent . . . 597 —Fish, I and II . 311 —Fancy Twisted . . 598 —Fish, Fried eto —French . . . 597 —for Soup Garnishing . 106 —French Petits- Pains 598 abbit, Jack . « 448 —Parker House. . . 598 —Civet and Sour . 444 —Roly Poly . . 464 adishes for Garnishing . 197 Roly Poly . 464 aisiné . . 646 Roux and Sauces, General amequins, Filling “for . 340 Directions . . . 40 arebit 4 la Suisse . . 844 Roux, Blond . . . . 42 —Welsh . .. . 344 —Brown. .. . . 41-2 aspberry and Currant —White .. . 42 Syrup . . . . 631 Roux, Diluting of, ‘ete. . 42 —Vinegar ao ow oe O82 —Making of nar: 40 avigote Butter . . . 62 Royal Custard... . 105 —Sauce (See Sauces) Rusks .. . . . 600 avioli_. 178 Rye Bread . . ; 595 elish (See Hors d’CEuvres) —Muffins. : . “ . 605- emoval or Relevé Course. 17 Sabayon in Glass. . . 484 ice, Recipes for: —Sauce e 4 . 471 —a 1’Imperatrice : 498 Salad Dressings: —and Curry . . 174 —Boiled . . . . . 214 —Bavarian Cream . 495 —Cheese . . . . + 209 —Boiled . . .. . 471 —Cream . . 214 —Creole . . . . . 172 —French, I and II. . 208 —Croquettes . . 173 —Fruit . . . . . 218 694 INDEX PAGE PAGE —Jellied . » « = 218 Party . .-. . 234 —Lonuis, I and II . 210-11 —Chiffonade. . . . 219 —Louis, Plain «4 BAL —Cold Slaw, I and —Mayonnaise I and II 211-42 II. . . 141 and 223 —Mayonnaise, Cream, —Cottage Cheese . . 221 ITandII. . . 212 —Cottage Cheese, Jel- —Mayonnaise, Green | 213 lied, and Pear . . 222 —Mayonnaise,. J aie —Cottage Cheese, Molded 221 ITandII.. . 212 —Cottage os Pi- —Mayonnaise, Red. . 213, mento. . 221 —Mustard. .. . 209 —Crab . ww. 228 —Thousand Island, I, —Cucumber . 215 ‘ II,. III, and Iv’ 209-10 —Cucumber and Tomato 216 —Vinaigrette : 209 —Cucumber Basket . 216 Salads, Cooking of Vege- —Dorothy ... . 228 tables for .. 206 —Egg. . - . « 220 —Food Value of Green 207 —Egg in Aspic . 2. . 282 —Fruit .. 206 —Fish in Aspie . .. . 233 —General Directions and —Fish with Left-Over . 225. Food Value’. . . 204 —Fruit, I, IE and III 221-2 —Green . . . . . 207 —Gladys te . 228 —Onion Flavor . . . 205 —Grape Fruit- Oyster. . 225 —Savory Vinegar . . 208 —Herring, Smoked . . 224 ia Salads, Recipes for:. —Lettuce. . . 215 —Alligator Pear . . 229 —Lettuce and Gliese . 215 —Apple, Jellied . . . 222- —Lettuce and Egg... 215 —Asparagus . . 216 —Lettuee and Tomato . 215 —Asparagus Tips, Com- —Lobster I. 226 bination... 216 —Lobster, IT and III, a —Asparagus Tips, J ellied 231 la Louis . 227 —Asparagus Tips, Tim- —Lobster with Artichoke bale . 231 Bottoms .. . 227 -—Beans, String . . . 218 —Macedoine, Jelliéd | 223 —Beet ee ee —Macedoine, Molded . 232 —Beet-Apple. . 217 —Orange. . - « 222 —Beet Cup, Combination 217 —Pear and Apple . . 214 —Brussels Sprouts, Com- —Potato, I, II and IIT 217-18 bination . . . 220 —Quail_ «. s 230 —Cantaloupe. . . . | 226 —Sardine. ... .. . 225 —Carmelite ... . 226 —Shrimp és . 226 —Cauliflower Mayon- —Spinach and wrongs . 223 naise, Timbale . 232 —Sweetbread and.Celery 230 —Celery and Nut... 218 —Tomato 4 la Russe . 224 —Celery Root . . . 216 —Tomato, Jellied . . 230 —Chicken .. 229 —Tomato-Peach 4 la —Chicken and Oyster in Pershing. . 224 0 - - Aspie ; 233 —Tomato, Stuffed, I ‘and. —Chicken, Combination 229 II 219 —CChicken, Creole. 229 —Tomato, Waldort . "| 219 —Chicken, for Buffet —Veal fw cae a ce 2228. ’ 695 INDEX ’ PAGE PAGE —Waldorf .\. . 218 —Chaudfroid, for Game 60 —Water-Cress . 218 —Cheese ‘ 56 —wWater Melon . 226 —Chicago 73 ally Lunn . 599 —Colbert . 53 almon Bellies . ‘ 271 =—Crab 66 almon, Poached, Shrimp —Cranberry 72 Sauce . . 270 —Cream 56 —Mousse . . 272 —Creole . 74 —Pain . 271 —Currant Mint Jelly 72 -—Steak, Broiled . . 272 —Curry ‘ 58 —Steak, Poached . 270 —Deviled . 46 —Steak, Sauted . 272 —Diplomate 64 ralmon- Trout, Hollandaise 270 —Draw Butter 62 talpicon . -. 29 —D ’Uxelles 50 lalsify (See Oyster. Plant) —Egg, I and II. 66 talted Almonds. 198 —Espagnole 44 ‘andwiches, Apple Butter | - —Figaro 71 for. 202 —Fimanciére. . . 58 sandwiches, Preparation of 200 —Financiére for Game . 54 Sandwiches, Recipes for: —Genevoise 51 —Anchovy . 202 —Giblet ; 48 —Club . 202, —Hollandaise, American —Egg.. . 201 Process ‘i . | 67 —Lettuce . . 201 —Hollandaise, French —Lobster 3 . . 202 ' Process Be uate a4 donk —Nuts and Cheese . . 202 —Hollandaise, Mock 68 —Windsor . 202 —Hollandaise, Tomatée 68 Jardines . 273 —Horse-radish 72 Jauces, Diluting of Roux, —Italian, Brown 48 Finishing and as —Italian, White . 48 ing .¢ ot 42 —dJelly 74 —Foundation = « = 42 —Lobster Dn iB 66 —General Directions . 41 —Mayonnaise, Hot . 69 Sauces, Recipes for: —Mint .. 73 —Allemande . . . . ‘57 —Montebello 69 —Bearnaise . . . . 69 —Mornay 56 —Bechamel . . . . 61 —Mushroom ‘ 46 —Bordelaise . . . . 49 —Mushroom, Blond . 58 —Bread . 1... . 74 —Muslin, I and II . 68 —Brown . . . 45 —Mussel 65 —Brown Anchovy . . 651 —Mustard 66- —Brown Butter or —Normande 58 Beurre-Noir . . . 73 —Olive 49 —Brown Tomato. . 71 —Orange . 47 —Brown, White Wine . 48 —Oyster 65 —Caper .. . . 56 —Parsley . 62 —Cardinal . . . . 61 —Perigueux 50 —Celery ‘ . . 66 —Piquante aoe ie 46 : —Chateaubriand . ‘i 53 —Poivrade, Brown . 48 —Chaudfroid, for Fowl 59 —Poivrade, White 49 696 INDEX PAGE ‘ PAGE —Poulette . . 60 Sauerkraut . . . . . 659 —Ravigote, I and II . 62-3 —with Potatoes. . . 142 —Robert . . 46 Sausage... .. . 401 —Sherry . . . . .. 45 Scones, Scotch. . . . 605 —Shrimp. . . . . 65 Seotch Soup. . 87 —Soubise. . . . . 56 Seasoning with Salt and — ss —Spanish.. . . . . 73 Pepper . .. . —Supréme . . . . 58 - Shad, Broiled .. . 274 —Taragon. 47 Shad, Haddock and White —Tartare, Chantilly, Cold 71 Fish, Planked . . 274 —Tartare, Chantilly, Hot 70 Shad Roe, 4 la Maryland . 275 —Tartare, Cold. . . 71 —Roe, au Gratin. . . 275 —Tartare, Hot . . . 70 —Roe, Fried . . . . 275 —Tomato. . .. . 71 —Roe, Sauted . . . 275 —Velouté. . . . . 57 Qherbets or Sorbets . . 514 —Venison . . . . 60 Qhort-Cake, Recipes for . 612 —Venitienne. . . 65 —Strawberry 611 ae Hugo . . . me Skate, Black Butter Sauce ae Fr ST OD eae Cis « see bret, Ud Skimmin: a ee . —Vinaigrette ©. | 74 Smelts, Baked . . 276 —White . . i —Broiled , "|", 2876 —White, Thick, i and II 55 —Fried oy tel Ea 276 ’ Sauces for Ice Cream . . 501 Snipe, Roasted : : : : 441 Sauces for Meat, Fish and Socles 38 Vegetables . . . 41 P seme, aS by * —Potato . . 118 Sauces for Puddings: Sod d Baki P a —Boiled Custard . 472 oda and Baking \owder —Brandy. . . . . 470 Mistures . . . 530 —Canned Fruit . . . 470 Sole, Cooked Whole . . - 280 —Caramel , . , 473 —Fillet 4 la Joinville . 282 —Choeolate . . . 474 a a i a . 282 —Creamy . . . 472 —Fillet an yster au ? —Creamy, Chocolate | 474 Gratin . 283 —Creamy, Lemon . 470 —Fillets of, Rolled, ‘au —Creamy, Orange . 471 Gratin . 277 —Foamy .... . 474 —Normande, I and II 280-81 —Golden . . . . . 470 Souffiés, Recipes for: —Hard, Lemon. . . 471 —Apricot or Plum . . 457 —Hard, Vanilla . . 471 —Cheese . 343 —Jelly, I and II . 473 —Choeolate . 457 —Lemon . 469 —Omelette . . 456 —Mapeline . 472 —Prune, Apple or Pear 458 —Marshmallow . 474 —Vegetable ~ - . 146 —Molasses_ . . . 473 Soups, Foundation Cream —Orange, I and I! | 471 for . 77 —Sabayon mm “gh AGL —Foundation Stock for 75 —Syrup . 472 —Foundation Thickened —Vanilla . . 469 Fish Stock for . . 101 —Wine. 470 —Stocks for. . 80 Sauces, Whipped Cream for 482 —Without Stock . 91 INDEX 697 PAGE PAGE Soups, Garnishings for: —Mushroom, I and II 99-100 —Egg Ball . . . . 106 —Mutton Broth. . . 80 —Egg Custard . . . 104 —Onion, Gratinée . . 96 —Crackers and Cheese . 106 —Onion, Gratinée aux —Croutons . . . . 105 Pointes d’Asperges 96 —Croutons,. French . . 105 —Onion, Plain, . . 95 —Marrow Balls . . . 106 —Oxtail . . . . . 86 —Parmesan Pate & Chou 106 —Oyster . . . . . 102 —Quenelles . . . . 106 —Oyster, Bisque. . . 103 —Royal Custard. . . 105 —Oyster, French . . 103 Soups, Recipes for: —Oyster Stew . . . 103 —Asparagus Cream. . 98 —Pea,Green. . . . 97 —Bean, with Left-Over 96 —Pea Purée. . . . 89 —Celery, Cream. . 99 —Pea, Split. . . . 97 —Chestnut . . . 90 —Potage4la Reine. . 84 —Chicken Colbert . . 86 —Potato, I and JI. . 92 —Chicken Giblets . . 84 —Potato and Asparagus 92 —Chicken Gumbo . . 84 —Pot-au-Feu or Bouil- —Chicken Printaniére . 85 lon. . s » *9 —Clam Chowder, I, Ii, —Pumpkin Cream. 99 ‘ and TIT . . .101-2 .—Seoteh,I and II. . 87 ~—Corn 2 oe ew « OF —Sorrel . 3 ae (408 -—Cornmeal . . . 100 —Sorrel, Parisian . . 94 —Consommé . 81 —Squash, Cream . . 99 —Consommé au Parme-_ —String Bean Purée . 95 san. 82 —Stock (See Stocks) —Consommé aux Laitues 86 —Tomato Bisque . . 100 . —Consommé aux Cufs . 83 —Tomato Cream. . . 98 —Consommé aux Pates . 82 —Tomato Purée. . . 89 —Consommé, Chicken . 82 —Vegetable Purée . . 91 —Consommé, en Tasse . 82 —Water-Cress. 87. —Consommé, Fish . . 83 Spaghetti (See Macaroni) 174 —Consommé, Jardinigre 82 Spare Ribs, Boiled. . 402 —Consommé Princesse . 82 —Broiled . . . . 402 —Consommé, Royal. . 82 Spice Bag . . . . . 35 —Crab, Bisque . . . 104 Spiced Salt : : 36 —Cream, with Left- Spinach, a L’Anglaise . . 148 Overs. . . . . 98 —au Gratin. . . . 150 —Cucumber . . . . 85 —au Velouté. . . . 149 —Fish Chowder. . . 101 —Boiled . . 148 —Grand Duc. . . . 88 —Croutons and Other —Julienne or Rice Vegetables . . . 149 Vegetable . . . 91 —in Cream . . . . 149 —Leek Potato . . « 93 —Molded . --. . . 148 —Leek Purée. 93 Sponge (for Bread | —Lentil with Left- Over 97 Dough) . . . 588-91 —Lettuce, Cream of . 91 Sponge Cake (See ae —Lobster Bisque . .103 Spun Sugar. . . 617 —Lobster Potage . . 104 Squash, Summer: —Mock Turtle . . . 89 —Boiled . . . .* . 167 i * 698 ti . INDEX PAGE —Fried . . . . . 168 —Purée . . . . 167 —Stewed with Tomato . 188 —with Tomato and Corn 168 Squash, Winter: —aux Fines Herbes . 169 —Baked . . . . . 168 Squab (See Pigeons) Stew, Financiére Sats 54 Stewing . °. 27 Stock, Clarification of. . 78 —Foundation for Soup . 75 Stocks: —Brown, I and II. . 43-4 —Chicken, I and : II. . 80 and 412 —Fish,IandII. . . 83 —Game .... . 59 —Pigeon . - . . 446 —Venison ‘ . . 60 —White, I and IIL . . 80 —White, II, for Sauces. 51 Strawberry Short-Cake . 611 Stuffings: —Bread . .. . . 269 —Chestnut . . . . 413 —Chicken, I, II and III. . . . 409-10 —Fish, I and IT . . 269 —for Cabbage, I and II 139 —for Gratin Dish . 259 —Oyster, for Fish . . 269 —Oyster, for Fowl . . 412 Succotash . . . 167 Sugar, Boiling, Degrees of 614 —Boiling, for Confec- ie tions . . . . 615 —Boiling to the ‘Crack’? =. gs . 616 —Paste . . . . . 573 —Spinning or Spun . 617 —To Shape Egrets . . 617 Sweetbreads, Recipes for: —a la Financiére . |. 318 —a la Parisienne . . 315 —a la Perigueux . . 319 —ala Poulette . . . 315 —a la Villeroi . . . 318 —Aspic . . . . 239 —au Fines Herbes . . 817 PAGE —au Gratin. . . . 319° —au Jus. . . . 314 —Broiled . . . . 7 317 —Chartreuse . . . |. 321 —Country Style. . . 319 —Croquettes. . . . 816 —Mayonnaise . 238 —~Patties or Vol-au- Vent, etc., Financiére . . 319 —Timbale, Iand II. 320 —Truffle, Calf’s Brain and Tongue Aspic . 241 -—-with Vegetable Purée 316 —with Vegetables . . 316 Syrup, 30° Sugar... 512 Syrup Hydrometer, Use of 629 Syrups: —Almond ~ 2 «+ 631 —Caramel . 630. —Currant or Raspberry 631 ~—Gum Arabic . . 630 —Lemon . .. . . 631 —Orange . . 631 Table Showing Composition of Brine , 649 —Showing ‘ ‘Blanching’’ Time of Canned Vegetables . . 651 Tartare Sauce (See Sauces) Tart Bands 520 Tartlet Pastry . . . 520 Tarts, Recipes for: —Apple,I and II . . 524 —Apple Custard. . . 525 —Apple, English . . 524 —Covered ‘ 520 —Rhubarb, ; English . . 525 Tea. . 672 —Ieed . 672 Terrapin, Preparation of | 306 —a la Baltimore. . . 307: —ala Maryland. . .,306 Thirty Degree Sugar Syrup 512 Thousand Island Dressing (See Salads) Timbales . . 253 —and Mousses, Foping of 254 —To Ornament! Molds . 254 —To Unmold . . . 254 ‘ INDEX 699 PAGE PAGE ist, French . . . . 468 —Roast, Stuffed . . 430 ~Milkk . . . . . 674 —Roast, Truffled . 431 nato Paste . . . . 653 Turnips, Glazed . 125 natoes, Canned . . . 653 —in Cream . 125 natoes, Pickled . . 663 —Mashed. . . 125 ~—Pickled Green . . . 664 Unmolding Jellied Dishes . 236 natoes, Recipes for: Vanilla Flavoring . . 531 —au Gratin . . . . 156 Vanilla Ice-Cream . . 502 —Baked .~ . . . . 156 Vanilla Sauce . 469 —Bisque . . . . . 100 Veal Forcemeats . 258 —Broiled . . . . . 157 Veal, Recipes for: —Jelly . . . . . 230 -—aéla Orloff. . 389 —on Croutons. . 157 —and Ham Paté . . 250 —Salad (See Salads) —and Ham, Tureen. . 249 —Sauted .. . 156 —Blanquette . 396 —Soup (See Soups) | —Braised au Jus 387 —Stewed . 156 —Braised with Onions 388 —Stuffed, I, II and III 157-8 —Breast of, Braised, ngue, Recipes for: Stuffed . . 388 —au Gratin . . . . 334 —Breast of, with Peas 396 —Beef and Calf’s, Boiled 333 —Curry ; . 396 —Beef, Braised . . . 334 —Fricandeau of . . 388 —Boiled, “Pickled or —Fricandeau of, & ia Smoked . . . . 385 Parisienne . 390 —Calf’s, Braised . . 334 —Frieandeau of, Prin- —Calf’s in Daube . . 335 cesse . . . 891 —Ecarlate in Aspic . . 239 —Noisette a l’ Anglaise . 294 —Lamb, Boiled . . . 336 —Noisette 4 1’Italienne 395 —Lamb, Braised . 335 —Roast . 371 —Lamb, in Papillotes . 336 —Rolled . 389 —Lamb, Orange Sauce . 337 - —Seallops’ . . 394 —Lamb, Macedoine . . 336 —Shoulder of, Braised . 389 —Medallion Aspic . . 240 —Timbale . 391 —Veal, Pickled, Boiled 333 Veal Cutlets: —Veal, Pickled, Raisin —a, 1’Italienne . 395 Sauce ‘ . 333 —a la Milanaise . . 393 ipe, Recipes for: —a la Mirepoix . . 392 —ila‘Lyonnaise. . 330 —a la Perigueux 392 —Broiled. . . . . 330 —a la Zingara . . 393 —Fried . . . . .« 830 —au Jus. . . . 891 --in Cream... 330 —aux Fines Herbes . 392 —Spanish ; . . 330 —Breaded . . 393 otters, & la Poulette . 337 —Breaded, aux Fines —i ‘la Vinaigrette . ..337 Herbes . . 394 out, Broiled . . . ‘273 —Mushroom Sauce . 392 —Jellied . . . . . 245 Veal, Left-Over, Ways of —Meuniere . .. . 2738 Utilizing: rkey, Recipes for: —a la Poulette . 397 =Boned in ae . . 244 —aA la Marengo . . 398 —Old .*.. . . . 482 —Blanquette . . 397 © 700 INDEX PAGE PAGE —Chili Con Carne . 399 —Marinade for . 369 —Croquettes . . 399 —Shoulder of, Braised —Curry . 398 and Stuffed. . . 441 —Diced in Cream . 399 —Steak, Broiled. . 442 —Pie . . 399 —Stock . 60 —Pie, Individual . 399 —Ways of Cooking . . 441 —Roasted or Braised, Vinaigrette Ureshe ; 209 Re-heated . 398 —Sauce . . 3 74 —Stew . ‘ . 898 Vitamine A. . . . . 18 Vegetable Croutons . . 149 Vitamine BB... . 14 Vegetable Ring . . 147 ~Vol-au-Vent . * « <9 DID Vegetable Soufilé . 146 Waffles . . . . 609-10 Vegetables, « Necessary Walnuts, Stuffed . . .,629 Part of Our Diet . 6 Water or Fruit Ices . 512-14 Vegetables, Baking of . . 110 Welsh Rarebit . . . 344 —Blanching or Boiling Whip, Apple . . . . 483 of ‘4 109 —Lemon. .. . . 484 —Cooking of . 108 —Strawberry . . .. 483 —Steaming . - 110 Whipped Cream . . . 481 Vegetables, General Diree- —Desserts 2 . . 483 tions . . . 107. White Bait, Fried. . 281 Vegetables, Left- -Over, White Sauce (See Sauces) Utilizing . 6 White Stock, I and III . 80 Vegetables, Macedoine | . 124 —Stock IT (for Sauce) 51 Velouté Sauce : . 57 Yeast and Sponge. . . 588 Venison Cutlets, Sauted . 442 Yeast,ITandII. . . 589-90 —Left-Over, Sauces to —Substitute . . 590 Re-heat . . 443 Yorkshire Pudding. . . 367 = i at fezeeanets esas i Rest pane Rhntan anata ies Ba : zt i wae fats Sheen att A ae afeat Seat tl ao eee a Hale i i tnaainaes Seana enti bhatt Sart ae i c au itn bit ae aaa Ei re if rei i