CORNELL
UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY
THE
WORDSWORTH COLLECTION
FOUNDED BY
CYNTHIA MORGAN ST. JOHN
THE GIFT OF
VICTOR EMANUEL
OF THE CLASS OF I9I9






LAKE DISTRICT OF ENGLAND
BEING A NEW PEDESTRIAN AND GENERAL GUIDE
TO THE DISTRICT.
BY
HERMAN PRIOR, M.A.,
LATE SCHOLAR OF TRINITY COLLEGE, OXFORD.
bpswv anreiya Kaprjya
real 7njycts Trora/uwy kcu tticrea Troi^eyra.
LONDON:	8IMPKIN, MARSHALL & CO.
WINDERMERE . J. GARNETT.WINDERMERE : PRINTED BY J. GARNETT,TO THE MEMORY OE
ISABELLA COO
OF DALE BND, GEA8MEEE
WHO DIED APEIL 7th,
SON,
1S 62,
Aged 12 Years.I.
A spring flower in a glade of dew,
In modest maidenhood she grew,
The child, with those deep eyes of blue :
I may not in my dreams forget
Their yearning gaze, like opals set
In some strange, hoarded amulet;
Like stars that on lake Windermere
Speed the late voyagers as they steer,
In summer nights, when skies are clear.
II.
A rude wind marred the blossom’s pride;
It withered on its green hill-side;
It bent its patient head, and died :
The glad brook carolled to the spring;
The forest leaves waved murmuring ;
The birds sailed blithely on the wing;
But far from the fair mountain-dell
One guileless life had passed to dwell—
The child, the young-eyed Isabel.
III.
No vain repining tear we shed;
Silently, as the psalm was said,
We laid her with the Church’s dead;
The tall trees wave beside her tomb;
And ever the first flowers that bloom
Shed on its turf their sweet perfume;
And ever the scarred cliffs on high
Watch from their granite towers, and cry,
“ Night waneth, and life’s dawn is nigh.”PREFACE.
The plan of the present volume will be readily undei
stood by a glance at its contents. It will be seen tha
it aims at combining the general character of th
“Guide Book” with specifically “Pedestrian” notice
of less frequented and to some extent difficult routes
In the former capacity, it is the object of the work t<
supply, in as condensed a shape as possible, the neces
sary heads of information as to hotels, excursions am
points of interest, car and carriage roads, and othe
matters not involving of necessity the outlay of strengt’
and time required for a walking tour. In doing thi:
considerable additions have been made to the list c
near walks and other home features within reach of th
main temporary habitats of the tourist. On the othe
hand, a good deal of description and anecdote has bee:
omitted, which form, perhaps, the more usual staple o
the Guide Book. For this, as well as for informatioi
outside the mountainous portions of the district, the
visitor is referred to the larger publications, which will
be found in every coffee-room. “Miss Martineau’s ”
and “Black’s” are both delightful works, and will be-VI;
PREFACE.
guile more than one wet afternoon. And Mr. Payn’s
clever “Guide to the Lakes,” although smaller, is
equally interesting. Indeed, had the object of these
pages been simply competition, the writer might well
have shrunk from entering the list against such names.
But there is probably room for all who may wish to
illustrate scenes the intense beauty of which none can
better appreciate than the practised Alpine traveller.
Of the strictly “Pedestrian” portions of the work,
it may be well to speak more at length. They are an
expansion of memoranda which the writer has in a few
instances supplied to friends for guidance in Lake
walks. Having found these successful, he has been led
to think that the same thing might be usefully at-
tempted for the entire mountain work of the district.
Some parts of this, indeed, are accessible by car-roads,
and easily followed from the map. Where this is the
case, no “ Pedestrian Route ” is given as such ; but the
road is shortly noticed, in the second Part of each
Section, with such detail only as may serve to indicate
the points of interest on the way. But in the majority
of instances, there is little enough track to be found ;
or, what is worse, there are half-a-dozen tracks, each
with evenly-balanced claims to be the right one. In
fact, as every walker of experience knows, the mountain
when you are actually upon it is an exceedingly differ-
ent thing from the easy and straightforward climb
which it promised from below.
The present work ventures to offer itself as a friend
in need under difficulties of this description. ThePREFACE.
Vll.
routes given comprise, it is believed, all that is “ worth
doing ” in the district: at any rate, as much of it as
will supply the tourist with a month or two’s good
occupation. The detail given is the result of personal
observation throughout; and although the writer can-
not hope to have escaped error, he trusts that no serious
mishap may rest upon his shoulders. As to the details
themselves, their object will be at once apparent. It
is simply, to put a stranger to the district in the same
position as if he had a companion by his side thoroughly
acquainted with it. The companion may be uninterest-
ing, or prolix, or you may like your way the best, or
think you could have hit upon his just as well in his
absence. Still, on the whole, you will be glad to have
him. In fact, there seems no reason why a tourist on
his first visit should not be put in possession of the re-
sults by which one guides oneself after having got up
the subject. If you wish to go from Windermere to
Troutbeck, and know the localities, you descend the
hill from Mr. Rigg’s and take the second gate on the
right; and when the path forks some distance on, you
take the right-hand turning again. And so on with all
the walks in the district, and all the portions of every
walk. There seems no reason why the tourist should
not be similarly supplied, in the first instance, with a
vade mecum of directions, wherever the map will not
avail him.
Having said this, it will be at once further seen that
the “routes” here given are composed specifically for
the humble purpose above mentioned ; in other words,Vlll.
PREFACE.
that they- are maps, not pictures. To the reader at a
distance, they will be as bewildering as a Runic in-
scription ;—a cento from Syrus and Tony Lumpkin.
To the tourist on the spot, and with the book in his
hand, it is hoped they may supply just the land-mark,
—the notched rock, or cairn, or sheep-pen, which is not
without its value amid the desolation of a peat-moor,
with dusk approaching, and the weather showing its
usual proclivity under the circumstances for a steady
night’s rain.
The same consideration will explain what might
otherwise seem a tedious minuteness in various portions
of the routes. Where this occurs, there is always, it is
believed, a good reason for it, which will be at once
understood on the spot. Usually, it is the commence-
ment of the day’s walk which requires special care of
this kind, simply because it is confused with artificial
features; on the open fell there is comparatively no
difficulty. It may be said, indeed, that the way can
always be learnt by asking. But this is not the case,
even if there were always some one at hand to ask.
Country people assume, perhaps rightly, the total in-
ability of a stranger to follow anything but the most
beaten track, and will inflict a league’s pilgrimage over
a high road rather than trust you to a mile of pleasant
footpath across a meadow.
It should be added, that the routes here given pre-
suppose some study of the maps in the cover of this
volume, as well as an average amount of intelligence in
the tourist. It is hardly an unreasonable expectationPREFACE.
IX
that he should not look for Helvellyn near Whitehaven i
that he should identify Brathay Bridge or Rosthwait*
on reaching them, without special prompting ; and tha
when directed to follow the Kirkstone Pass he shoul<
not bring himself out in Kentmere. As a further ai<
to the maps, Mr. Flintoft’s admirable model in th
Keswick Town-hall may be mentioned; indeed, it i
only a stranger to the district who would require to b
told of it. Its fidelity and clearness make it th
“Keller” of these mountains. It will be observer
throughout the routes that (with a few exceptions) nc
measures of time or distance are given. The omissioi
is intentional. In such works as Mr. Ball’s magnificen
Swiss guide, such measures must be attempted at a]
hazards ;—life and limb, not to speak of dinner an'
night’s lodging, may depend upon having some informa
tion on these points. But there is no such necessity
in a tract of limited extent like the Lake district. Th<
Pedestrian Routes in this volume may all be accom
plished, and with ample time for rest and enjoymenf
between breakfast and sun-down ; and it has therefor
been thought useless to give computations which ii
themselves have a tendency to mislead. A mile up Scaw
fell is a wholly different thing from a mile along Borrow
dale; and an hour, according to the tourist’s circum
stances and disposition, means everything between :
saunter of two miles and a steady tramp of five.




					
					
					
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1		
		
		
		
		
		




GENERAL SYNOPSIS OP CONTENTS.*
Section.	Page.
I.	Windermere and Bowness	...	...	...	7
II.	Ambleside, Rydal, Grasmere, and the Langdales ...	35
III.	Coniston, Hawkshead, and Broughton ...	...	99
IY.	Ullswater and Haweswater	...	...	...	117
Y.	Keswick, Borrowdale, Crummock Water, Buttermere,
aDd Ennerdale ...	...	...	...	153
VI. Wastwater, Eskdale, and the Duddon ...	... 245
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
SECTION I.—WINDEEMEEE AND BOWNESS.
Part.
1.	Names of Hotels, and other heads of general information 7
2.	List of Coach, Car, and other Roads not given in the
following Pedestrian Routes ...	...	...	16
3.	Pedestrian Routes:
1.	Windermere to Ambleside, by Elleray, Troutbeck
foot-bridge, and Skelgill	...	...	...	18
2.	Windermere to	Mardale	and	Haweswater,	by
Troutbeck, Upper Kentmere, and the Nan
Bield Pass	...	...	...	...	20
3.	Windermere to	Mardale	and	Haweswater,	by
Troutbeck, Kentmere, and the Sleddale valley .	24
4.	Windermere to Haweswater, by Applethwaite
Common, Kentmere, and the Nan Bield Pass... 27
5.	Windermere to Mardale and Haweswater, by
Applethwaite Common, Kentmere, and the
Sleddale valley	...	...	...	...	31
* It will be seen that these Sections do not correspond with those of the
maps in the cover.11.
CONTENTS.
Part.	Pa.
3. — 6. Windermere to Mardale and Haweswater, by
Staveley, Kentmere, and Nan Bield	...	31
7.	Windermere to Mardale and Haweswater, by
Staveley, Kentmere, and the Sleddale valley ...	32
8.	Ascent of High Street from Windermere ...	33
SECTION II.—AMBLESIDE, RYDAL, G-RASMERE, AND THE
LANODALES.
1.	Names of Hotels, and other heads of general information 35
2.	List of Coach, Car, and other Roads not given in the
following Pedestrian Routes	...	...	51
3.	Pedestrian Routes continued :
9.	Ambleside to Mardale and Haweswater, by Trout-
beck, Kentmere, and Nan Bield ...	...	69
10.	Ambleside to Mardale and Haweswater, by Trout-
beck, Kentmere, and Sleddale ...	...	69
11.	Ascent of High Street from Ambleside	...	70
12.	Ascent of Helvellyn from Grasmere ...	...	71
13.	Ascent of Fairfield from Grasmere ...	...	73
14.	Ascent of Silverhow from Grasmere ...	...	73
15.	Ascent of Helm Crag from Grasmere ...	...	74
16.	Ascent of Langdale Pikes from Grasmere (visiting
Dungeon Ghy 11 en route) ...	...	...	76
17.	Grasmere to Ullswater, by Grisedale ...	...	78
18.	Grasmere to Langdale, by Easedale Tarn	...	79
19.	Langdale, by Easedale Tarn, to Grasmere	...	82
20.	Grasmere to Keswick, by High Raise	...	84
21.	Grasmere to Keswick, by Harrop Tarn and
Watendlath	...	...	...	...	87
22.	Grasmere to Keswick, by Great Langdale, Stake
Pass, and Borrowdale ...	...	...	8
23.	Grasmere to Keswick, by Great Langdale, the
top of Esk House, and Borrowdale ...	...	9
24.	Ascent of Scawfell Pike from Grasmere and
Langdale	...	...	...	...	94
25.	Grasmere and Langdale, by top of Esk House and
Sty Head, to Wastdale ...	...	...	94
26.	Ascent of Great Gable from Grasmere and Lang-
dale ...	...	...	...	...	96CONTENTS.
111.
SECTION III.—CONISTON, HAWKSHEAD, AND BROUGHTON.
nrt.	Page
1.	Names of Hotels, and other heads of general information 99
2.	List of Coach, Car, and other Roads not given in the
following Pedestrian Routes	...	...	... 103
3.	Pedestrian Routes continued :
27. Ascent of the Old Man	...	...	... 105
28.	From Coniston, by Walna Scar, the Duddon,
Stanley Ghyll in Eskdale, and Burnmoor, to
Wastdale ...	...	...	... 107
SECTION IY.—ULLSWATER AND HAWESWATER.
1.	Names of Hotels, and other heads of general information 117
2.	List of Coach, Car, and other Roads not given in the
following Pedestrian Routes ...	...	... 126
3.	Pedestrian Routes continued :
29- Ascent of	Helvellyn from Ullswater ...	...	129
30.	Ascent of	High Street from Ullswater	...	131
31.	Ullswater	to Grasmere, by Grisedale ...	...	132
32.	Ullswater	to Keswick, by Glenridding and top of
Styx ...	...	...	...	... 133
33.	Ullswater to Keswick, by Dockwray and Vale of
St.John’s	...	...	...	... 135
34.	Haweswater to Windermere, by Nan Bield, Kent-
mere, and	Staveley	...	...	...	137
35.	Haweswater to Windermere, by Sleddale, Kent-
mere, and	Staveley	..	...	...	137
36.	Haweswater to Windermere, by Nan Bield, Kent-
mere, and	Troutbeck	...	...	...	138
37.	Haweswater to Windermere, by Sleddale, Kent-
mere, and	Troutbeck	...	...	...	144
38.	Haweswater to Windermere, by Nan Bield, Kent-
mere, and Applethwaite Common ...	... 147
39.	Haweswater to Windermere, by Sleddale, Kent-
mere, and Applethwaite Common ...	... 150
40.	Haweswater to Ambleside, by Nan Bield, Kent-
mere, and	Troutbeck	...	...	...	151
41.	Haweswater to Ambleside, by Sleddale, Kent-
mere, and	Troutbeck	...	...	...	151
42.	Ascent of High Street from Haweswater ... 152]V.
CONTENTS.
SECTION Y.—KESWICK, BORROWDALE, CRUMMOCK WATER,
BUTTERMERE, AND ENNERDALE.
Part.	Page.
1.	Names of Hotels, and other heads of general information 153
2.	List of Coach, Car, and other Roads not given in the
following Pedestrian Routes ...	...	...	183
3.	Pedestrian Routes continued :
43.	Ascent of Skiddaw from Keswick ...	...	185
44.	Ascents of Skiddaw from Portinscale ...	...	188
45.	Ascent of Saddleback from Keswick (or Portin-
scale) ...	...	...	...	...	194
46.	Ascent of Helvellyn from Keswick ...	...	197
47.	Ascent of Scawfell Pike from Keswick (or Portin-
scale) and Borrowdale ...	...	...	198
48.	Ascent of Great Gable from Keswick (or Portin-
scale), Rosthwaite in Borrowdale, or Butter mere 204
49.	Ascent of Grasmoor from Keswick and Portin-
scale ...	...	...	...	...	209
50.	Prom Keswick to Grasmere, by Thirlmere (Arm-
both side)	...	...	...	...	211
51.	From Keswick to Grasmere, by Lower Borrowdale,
Stake Pass, and Great Langdale ...	...	212
52.	Prom Keswick to Grasmere, by Lower Borrow-
dale and High Raise ...	...	...	214
53.	From Keswick to Grasmere, by Watendlath and
Harrop Tarn	...	...	...	...	216
54.	From Keswick to Grasmere, by Borrowdale, the
top of Esk House, and Great Langdale ... 219
55.	From Keswick to Wastdale, by Borrowdale and
Sty Head	...	...	...	...	221
56.	From Keswick to Patterdale, by Glenridding and
top of Styx	...	...	...	...	221
57.	From Keswick to Patterdale, by Vale of St.
John’s and Dockwray ...	...	...	223
58.	From Keswick to Scale Hill, by Coldale	...	225
59.	From Keswick to Scale Hill, by Grisedale range
(ridge walk)	...	...	...	...	229
60.	From Buttermere to Ennerdale Lake, by Scale
Force and Floutern Tarn ...	...	...	231
61.	From Scale Hill to Ennerdale Lake, by Floutern
Tarn ...	...	...	...	...	235
62.	From Scale Hill and Buttermere to Upper
Ennerdale by Scarf Gap, and by Black Sail to
Wastdale	...	...	...	...	236CONTENTS,
V.
Part.	Page,
3 —63.	From Ennerdale Lake to Buttermere,	by	Flou-
tern Tarn and Scale Force	...	...	239
64.	From Ennerdale Lake to Scale Hill ...	...	242
SECTION VI.—WASTDALE, ESKDALE, AND THE DTJDDON.
1.	Names of Hotels, and other heads of general information 245
2.	List of Coach, Car, and other Roads not given in the
following Pedestrian Routes	...	... 252
3.	Pedestrian Routes continued:
65.	Ascent of Scawfell Pike from Wastdale Head ... 254
66.	Ascent of Great Gable from Wastdale Head ... 259
67.	From Wastdale Head to Borrowdale and Keswick,
by Sty Head	...	...	...	... 259
68.	From Wastdale Head to Upper Ennerdale, by
Black Sail, and by Scarf Gap to Buttermere and
Scale Hill	...	...	...	... 260
69.	From Wastdale Head to Great Langdale and
Grasmere, by Sty Head and top of Esk House . 262
70.	From Wastdale Head, by Burnmoor, to Eskdale
and Stanley Ghyll, and thence by the Duddon
and Walna Scar to Coniston	...	... 264.1INTRODUCTION.
A comparison of the sections into which the work is
divided, (see Synopsis of Contents), with the Map pre-
fixed to the volume, will give a good general idea of
the district; but a few words may still be added as to
the Lakes and Mountains which form its characteristic
features.
Of the former, no strict classification can be success-
fully attempted. The mere size is no criterion of merit:
Grasmere, for instance, will be felt to have a charm
which is wanting in lakes three times its size.
Speaking loosely and popularly, the “ principal” lakes
are Winandermere (which is by far the largest), Ulls-
water and Derwentwater.
To strike the balance between these, or even to at-
tempt much discrimination of their respective characters,
would be simple dogmatism. It will be readity felt that
the head of Winandermere, although at some distance
from the mountains, has an effect of stateliness and size
which is not found in the other two just named. CJlls-
water is a narrow river-like lake, creeping up among the
fastnesses of Fairfield and Helvellyn. It is absurd to
call it an English bay of Uri; but its features are bold
and striking: of a gloomy order when the day is over-
cast, but capable of looking infinitely beautiful with a ^
bright sky and afternoon sun. The absence of islands
will be at once noticed, but it is questionable whether it
is a defect in this lake.
Both Winandermere and Ullswater require a view up2
INTEODTTOTION.
them to bring out their effective parts. In this they
contrast with Derwent water, which has three sets of
views, all equally effective : the view Borrowdale way
from the rocks fronting Mr. Marshall’s island, (or, still
better, from Applethwaite or the Skiddaw ascent) ; the
view down the lake from Barrow House or the Wa-
tendlath road, with Skiddaw for the background ; and
the view across it into the Yale of Newlands, capped
by the beautiful summits of the Buttermere and Gras-
rnoor ranges. It is difficult to choose between these
three views. It is still more difficult not to feel that,
whatever place we may assign to its competitors, Der-
wentwater has gone the furthest to form one’s impres-
sions for life of matured, faultless beauty.
Next to the three lakes above mentioned, probably
the best known are Grasmere and the small but very
pretty By dal Water. Grasmere, as already observed,
produces an impression out of all proportion to its size,
and for which it is difficult to account. Perhaps it is
the lake one loves best: its features have an inefface-
able home-charm about them.
To pedestrians, at any rate, the two succeeding no-
tabilities are Buttermere (cum Crummock Water) and
Wastwater. The latter is very straight, very rugged,
not very lofty, and depending mainly for its effect upon
the steep slant and occasionally magical colouring of
the well-known “ Screes.” It may be doubted if it
has not- been over-praised. Of the two Buttermere
lakes, on the other hand, it is hard to speak too highly.
They are an inner shrine in the rock-temple of these
solitudes; little-trodden (when the daily excursion
cars from Iveswick are despatched) ; lapped in the
shadow of dusk mountains; the impersonation of so-
lemn, still beauty.
The remaining lakes, except Coniston, are less visited,
but by no means less deserving a visit.
Coniston is very graceful; from some points almostINTEODUCTION'.
3
Italian in character, while the views on the east bank,
where it groups with the Old Man, are bold and strik-
ing. We can understand a resident coming to prefer this
view to almost anything in the district. A stranger,
lookingdown the lake only, will probably be disappointed.
The other lakes, omitting tarns, may be enumerated
together. Ennerdale and Bassenthwaite, — both with
excellent detail, although nowhere first-rate. Thirle-
mere, a lake of rare beauty if properly seen, which it
is not from the Keswick road. Loweswater and Es-
thwaite follow, both pleasing ; and, last but not least,
the outlying but exquisitely finished Hawes Water.
It is difficult to imagine anything which more entirely
satisfies the eye than this lovely little lake. It should
be seen always from the lower end.
The Mountains of the District will not detain us so
long as its lakes. Not from any lack of interest in
them, for the tourist who has come for a lazy boating-
time on Winandermere, usually finds himself stimulated
by the attractive summits on each side of him to some
days’ hard climbing. But as the object of the subse-
quent “ pedestrian routes” is to assist in this result, and
as far as possible, to exhaust the mountain work of
the district, it is obvious that a few words of general
introduction will suffice here.
The mountains most usually ascended are Scawfell
Pike, Helvellyn, Fairfield, Skiddaw, the Coniston Old
Man, High Street, and the Langdale Pikes.
Of these, Scawfell Pike is the highest, and the Lang-
dale Pikes the lowest; Scawfell probably the least con-
spicuous of any in the district, and the Langdales the
most so. The first thing almost which the tourist
learns is the name of this strange double-headed cliff,
the “biceps JParnassus” of England, seamed down its
centre with the deep gully of the stream which rises
between its twin summits. But Scawfell, although
lying rather out of sight, and not a very marked peak
a 24
INTEODUCTIOtf.
in itself, forms a most interesting ascent; far more so,
in fact, than any other.
Skiddaw and Helvellyn are nearly of a height, about
8,000 ft. each. The view is not remarkably good from
either, but it would be unpardonable to omit them,
and the ascent and descent are both free from diffi-
culty. On Helvellyn indeed there is a piece of rock-
work (Striding Edge) which has been denounced in
past times. But it is really safe enough, and worth
doing ; besides, there are several other approaches.
Fairfield has a good view southward, and the Conis-
ton Old Man an equally good one to the west. On an
August afternoon, the sunset from the Old Man sum-
mit, with the Scawfell and Buttermere mountains loom-
ing in golden haze in front of you, is magnificent. The
High Street view is also first-class ; that from the
Langdale Pikes rather inferior, as they are in fact mere
projections from a higher range. Accordingly, in the
Keswick and Buttermere walks you are disturbed by
the non-appearance of the “ Pikes,” and find it hard
to accept as their substitute the dull-looking summit
behind which they are hiding.
Perhaps the most entirely satisfactory view under all
circumstances is that from a mountain not enumerated
above, Great Gable. The latter, with several other
ascents a little removed from the everyday track, is
given in the following routes. Others, such as the
Steeple, Hindscarth, Harter Fell, &c., are omitted for
fear of unduly swelling the bulk of the volume. No
serious difficulty will be found in them.
While on this branch of the subject, it should be
added, as a special attraction of this “ Lake District,”
that very little work goes to waste in it. It is so
small in extent, and so closely packed with hill and
dale, that you escape the “ dull bits ” altogether.
Twenty miles of moor with an ugly mountain on the
horizon, may have their merits, but, as the ScotchUTTK0DTJCTT01S’.
5
tourist well knows, they are not very cheerful walking.
Nothing need be premised as to waterfalls, which
are dealt with as they occur ; and the several and par-
ticular “ things to be done ” in the district (such, for
instance, as that nuisance the “ Bowder Stone”) are of
course reserved for the same treatment. It is to be
hoped that the indulgent reader will overlook any
shortcomings in this direction.
The mountain towns of the district are Keswick,
Ambleside, Hawkshead, and the pretty little Broughton,
see sections 5, 2, and 3. Kendal, Oockermouth and
Penrith are outsiders in a pedestrian tour, but all three
deserving a visit. The descriptions of these, as well of
the mining and other towns along the coast, are to be
obtained from the usual guide books.
It would be unjust not to add a few words as to the
hotels of the district. They are, almost uniformly,
comfortable and moderate : — the very few exceptions
had better remain unnoticed, and it is to be hoped they
may amend their ways. Of course, in the crowded part
of the season, the resources of these establishments be-
come overtaxed, and the tourist may lodge ill, and not
, get dinner very punctually ; but allowance must be
made for this. The usual tariff \s the same as Wales,
(and, substituting shillings for francs, as Switzerland) :
Bed 2s.; breakfast with meat 2s. ; tea Is. 6d. Dinner
is usually 2s. 6d.; lower than the Swiss tariff, which is
3f. for the early table d'hote, and 4f. for the late. But
this includes a bottle of rather nice vinegar. At one
or two of the lake hotels this table d'hote has made its
appearance, but on Sundays only. On week days there
is a sort of running lunch, but not like the table d'hote
of the Bangor “George,” or of Buxton and Scarborough.
It should be added that the lake hotels (as such),
mostly date within the last few years, that at Patter-
dale being one of the earliest. The old inn, not un-
comfortable, but extremely limited in its resources,
a 36
INTRODUCTION.
still survives in places where one would have expected
something better. Members of the peerage with no-
thing to do would find several openings for an “ Hotel
company limited.”SECTION I.
WINDERMERE AND BOWNESS.
PART I.
NAMES OF HOTELS AND OTHER HEADS OF GENERAL
INFORMATION.
Hotels and Inns are:
At Windermere : Rigg’s Railway Hotel. A prince of
of hotels; one of the best and most moderate in Eng-
land. Village Inn.
At Bowness ; Crown; Royal; Victoria, and others.
WINDERMERE.
It is assumed that this will he the tourist’s starting-
point ; it is certainly the best, notwithstanding the
recent opening of the Penrith and Keswick railway,
and the superior picturesqueness of the sea-wTashed line
to Coniston. If wished, the most striking part of the
latter route may be seen by following it from Carn-
forth as far as Ulverston, and then taking the road to
Newby Bridge, and the steamer to Bowness, from
which omnibuses ply regularly to Windermere. But
the necessity for making these changes, contrasts, on
the face of it, unfavourably with the “ through car-
riage ” to Windermere. In quitting the district, the
Keswick line obviously offers the best route.
Between the above two termini of Windermere and
Keswick, the traveller, having before him the pedestrian
routes and lists of other routes here given, will be able
to dispose of himself according to time, weather and8	Windermere : Church, Library.	[Sect. 1.
inclination. The ground to be traversed is so limited
that it has been felt unnecessary to give any outline
arrangement for a “ tour in the district.” It is perhaps
questionable whether the principal advantage of such
an outline is not to give the tourist the keen satisfaction
of deviating from it as widely as possible.
Windermere, it should be observed in limine, has
properly but one meaning, to which it is exclusively
confined in these pages, viz., that of the railway station
with the pleasant modern village which has sprung up
round it. It does not mean either the lake or the old
parish named from it, although it is often popularly
substituted for the former. The lake is “ Winander”
(i.e. winding) “ mere,” and its orthography is accord-
ingly preserved throughout this work. To call it
“Windermere ” is a sacrifice of convenience as well as
euphony. Bowness contains the church of the old
Winanclermere parish. It may be usefully added that
the station is, among some of the natives, called “ Bir-
thwaite.” The loss of a train may be the result of for-
getting this.
The most noticeable points at Windermere are as
follows : —
Saint Mary’s Church and the College behind
it; both unusually successful gothic buildings of the
renaissance. The College is really extremely pretty ;
a public footpath, skirting the west side of the church-
yard, between two low fences, leads in front of it, and
out into the Bowness road. Both buildings were de-
signed by the Rev. J. A. Addison. The College, which
was originally intended as a public institution for the
education of clergymens’ sons, is now a flourishing pri-
vate school.
Public Library (Post-office). A tempting lounge,
and capitally supplied for purchases useful and orna-
mental ; comprising, in addition, a photographing sa-
loon, and a collection of views in the district, by “ na-Parti.] Windermere : Boats, near Walks.	9
tive talent.” The intending pedestrian will find both
pleasure and profit in looking through these, as faithful
pictures of the scenes in which some of his hardest
work will lie.
Boats and Bathing-place. — Note should be
taken that Windermere has a vclvtikov of its own,
without the necessity of descending to Bowness. Just
below the Church are three gates, the centre of which
leads, by a pretty copse walk crossing the Bowness
lower road, to a small bay where boats are kept. About
half a mile along the beach from here, in the direction
of Ambleside, is a bathing-place with a sandy bottom :
for a plunge, a boat is of course necessary. Accidents
have been rather frequent on the lake, in all its pleasure-
uses. A white marble cross on a rocky islet near Low-
wood, marks the scene of one of these ; singularly close
to the shore, but still fatal. Winandermere is the deep-
est of all the lakes except Wastwater ; —in some parts,
between 200 and 300 feet.
Windermere abounds in near walks and points of
interest.
Orrest Head Hill, just above Bigg’s Hotel, is a
beautiful walk. The first gate on the left, above the
hotel, leads into a farm lane, following which and as-
cending by a wall on the left, a well-trodden footpath
leads to the top. The view there is first-rate.
Elleray Grounds. — Two public footpaths lead
through these, described incidentally in Boutes 1 and
4. In addition to these paths, Mr. Bigg will, on proper
application, lend the key of the Elleray carriage drives,
which are full of beauties : you enter these by thq first
gate below the hotel. Elleray was the residence of
Professor Wilson, (Christopher North) ; it is now sold
as building sites.
Miller Brow Terrace, by Cook’s House cor-
ner. Follow the Ambleside road to the turning for
Troutbeck, opposite which another road, on the left,10	Windermere : near Walks. Sect. 1.]
runs back to Bowness. Following this, two houses
are passed, known as the Priory and Higlifield : the
former, a modern building with a tower which forms
almost as conspicuous an object on the lake as Wray
Castle. Beyond Highfield, the road runs for a short
distance along a terrace, from which the views of
Winandermere, both up and down, with the moun-
tain chain from the Old Man to Kirkstone Fell, are
admirable: probably, on the whole, the most perfect
which can be obtained. Some excellent lodgings just
above (Harrison’s, Woodlands Villa) command the
same view, as far as the mountains are concerned. No
appreciation of other and even loftier scenes can di-
minish the charm of this bold hill outline, and the
magical scene-shifting of light and shade upon its
sides from dawn to dusk. An outline notice of the
different summits seen from this point will be found
on page 14. The terrace is Miller Brow, and the
lane from it into Bowness forms a charming sequel
to the walk.
Oerest Farm. — From the stone step-stile, at the
upper part of Elleray grounds (commanding the exqui-
sitely-framed view of the head of Winandermere noticed
in Boute 4,) a longer walk may be taken by following
that route as far as the farm with the two clipped
yews in front. Here quit the road, and go through
the farm buildings. Immediately on the left of the
house behind the yews, a door under .in archway, ap-
parently leading into the premises, really forms the
commencement of a public footway, which continues
through some pleasant fields, ard afterwards descends
by another farm into the Troutbeck road. Turning
left here, }mu reach, at some distance on, the iron gate
beyond the Sunday School, leading to the return foot-
path through Elleray to the hotel.
Troutbeck Footbridge. — The way to this is
described as part of Route 1, and forms a very prettyPart 1.] WlKDEEMERE : Walks. BOWHESS.	11
walk, even if it is not wished to pursue the remaining
portion of that Route from the footbridge into Amble-
side. The bridge has been recently built by subscrip-
tion.
“ High-level ” Paths to Bowness. A system
of very pretty and enjoyable field-paths runs from Win-
dermere to the high ground above Bowness, and also
leads into two lanes further on the left, both eventually
joining the Bowness-Kendal coach-road. It would add
too much to the bulk of the volume to give the details
of these field-paths throughout: — they are entered,
either by a gate on the right of the road from Win-
dermere to Kendal (just beyond the first farm on that
side after leaving the hotel), or by a path on the left of
the road from Windermere to Bowness. The turning
to this latter is below the last houses in the village, a
short distance after the road has been joined on the
right by that leading from the college. From both
these paths there are three or four different ways down
to Bowness, one passing Biscay How rocks.
Wood-paths.—Besides the path to the boats above
noticed, another very pretty path crosses the copse
between the Windermere road to Bowness and the
Bowness lower road ; the stile is a little short of the
Hydropathic establishment. Instead of ascending to
Orrest Head hill also, a pretty track on the right,
through the underwood, may be taken.
BOWNESS.
Bowness lies close to the lake, and it cannot he de-
nied that it has its merits. There are good shops,
and some very good lodging-houses. Nothing can be
brighter than the flotilla of wherries at the quay of its
little bay, or more picturesque than the wooded islands
which stud the lake in front of them. But, somehow,
the visitor who has descended from Windermere, is
edad to e-et back again. There is no disguising that the12
Bowness : Church, Biscay Sole, Sfc. [Sect. 1.
village has something of a Margate flavour upon it: —
at least, as far as anything on Winandermere can have
it. But it is a popular place notwithstanding, and no
doubt will continue so. Its points of interest and
near walks are as follows.
St. Martin’s Church. — Only noticeable for its
east window, which came from Furness Abbey. Wat-
son is buried in the churchyard.
Models of the Lakes. — There are two of these
in the village : Mr. Howe’s is the largest, and said to
be good.
Belle Isle.— The largest of the lake islands, about
a mile in circumference. The house upon it, with a
truncated dome, belongs to Mr. Curwen, who allows
strangers the privilege of landing by ticket procurable
at the hotels. During the civil wars, it stood a siege
of eight months.
Winandermere Ferry. — This should be visited,
and the lake crossed to the pretty inn on the other side,
even if it is not intended to pursue the roads to Hawks-
head or Wray Castle referred to elsewhere. The hill on
the Hawkshead road should also be ascended if pos-
sible. The ferry is rough enough in coarse weather.
A bridal party of fifty persons, including the married
couple, were drowned by the upsetting of a boat in
1635. The walk to the ferry from Bowness is itself
very pleasing, partly road and partly field-path. Storrs
Hall, the nearest private residence on the same side,
was frequently visited by Mr. Canning. There is a
regatta at the Ferry every summer.
Biscay How. —This is the name given to the rocks
which form a conspicuous feature on the left of the
road from Windermere to Bowness, just before you
descend into the latter. The view from them is excel-
lent. The lane leading to Biscay How turns off on the
left of the carriage-drive to the Victoria.
Brantfell Boad. — Another view, less extensive,Part i.] Bowness : near Walks, Lake.	13
but singularly beautiful, is obtained by following the
lane which ascends the hill on the left of the carriage-
drive to the Crown. About half-way up the farm-road
into which the lane leads is a stile, under a tree, which
forms a pleasant seat, and is the best point for this
latter view.
It should be added, that from both the last-men-
tioned lanes, you strike into the pretty footpaths
running on the high ground above the lake to Win-
dermere, and mentioned at page 11. The Miller
Brow Terrace, by Cook’s House corner (p. 9) wijl
also of course be visited ; for its own sake, and hardly
less for the charming wooded lane which leads to it.
The house on the left, at some distance along this lane,
is Rayrigg, where Wilberforee frequently spent the
summer. One of the best views of the Langdale Pikes
detached from the general mountain range, is obtained
from a point just short of Rayrigg ; you get them over
the small bay on the edge of which the house is built.
The Lake. — In addition to the rowing-boats, nu-
merous steamers ply daily up and down Winandermere;
and on a bright day one would wish no higher enjoy-
ment than to make the voyage with them. By an ar-
rangement which is not without its advantages, the
return costs no more than a single fare. It is not ne-
cessary in returning to continue with the steamer by
which you came.
*	Excursion up the Lake. — From Bowness pier,
and for some distance after leaving it, you get a reach
of the lake, backed by the deep hollow of Fairfield,
with Loughrigg between:—a fine view, but not compar-
able to the Winandermere view proper, which is opened
higher up. The lake is here backed on the left by the
Coniston Old Man, dipping to its northern limb, We-
therlam; on the right of the latter, lies the Wry nose
*	It would be better to make the trip down first; but it is no
use advising what the tourist will certainly not do.14
Bowjstess : excursion up the Lake. [Sec*t. .
pass, between Langdale and the Duddon. Above these
the mountains ascend again, forming the chain known
as Cold Pike, the Crinkle Crags, and Bow Fell. Bow
Fell rises into a sharp peak; the Crinkle Crags are a
curious triplet of round-headed summits, easily distin-
guishable on the left of it. Between Crinkle Crags
and Bow Fell is seen, on clear days, the peak of Scaw
Fell Pike, the highest of the English Mountains, sepa-
rated from Bowfell and the Crags by the deep hollow
of Eskdale. A peaked mountain, with a line of cliff
underneath it, nearly in front of the Crinkle Crags,
is the Pike of Please, and below this is Lingmoor. On
the right of Lingmoor, the “ Great Langdale ” valley
is well seen, running between Bowfell on the left and the
unmistakeable Langdale Pikes (page 3) on the right.
In the gap between Bowfell and the Pikes, the summit of
Great Gable may be distinguished, but by no means
looking the mountain it really is. On the right, the
chain of the “ Pikes ” is terminated by the fine cliff of
Pavey Ark, and then forks, the upper branch, over which
the High Raise pass lies, forming the division between
the Grasmere and Borrowdale valleys. At the extremity
of one of the long arms running down on the near, or
Grasmere, side, Helm Crag is conspicuous. The lower
fork descends by the side of the Langdale and Skelwith
valleys to the lake, terminating in Loughrigg Fell with
the hamlet of Brathay at its foot, a little to the left of
which is Wray Castle. On the right of Loughrigg lies
Ambleside, with Fairfield above it, concealing Helvellyn.
The long line of mountain on the right of Fairfield is
Kirkstone Fell; and the lower summit in advance of
these, lying south-east from Ambleside, is Wansfell
Pike.
The above outline sketch will perhaps be pardoned,
as intended to save the tourist who is on a first visit
some elementary trouble in fixing the leading features
of the district. A few days’ walking and use of thePart l.j Bowness : up and down the Lake.	15
maps will enable him to do this for himself, and
the nuisance will not occur again. It should be added
that (speaking roughly) Coniston lies between you and
the Old Man ; Wastwater, on the other side of Scaw-
fell Pike; Keswick and Skiddaw beyond the Langdale
Pikes ; and Ullswater behind Kirkstone Fell.
On the shores of the lake, the following points re-
quire notice. On the right hand, going to Ambleside,
and soon after you have passed under Windermere
station and village, the very beautiful Troutbeck valley
opens, with 111 Bell and the southern range of the High
Street chain on its right. At the foot of the valley,
on the flat ground by the “beck,” is Calgarth Park: —
rather an ugly house, shut in by plantations. Watson,
(bishop of Llandaff at the beginning of the century)
passed his episcopate here in agricultural pursuits.
They seem to have prospered, as he boasted that with
the poorest see, he was the richest of the bishops. At
some distance on is Lowwood Hotel; the resort during
the season, of countless neogams. On a rising ground
just above, pleasantly nooked into the hill, is Dovenest,
where Mrs. Hemans passed some months. On reaching
the head of the lake, Ambleside spire is a conspicuous ob-
ject, and the residence of the present incumbent, on a
spur of Loughrigg to the left, scarcely less so. Further
on, the lawn of Brathay Hall slopes to the water’s edge,
with Pull Bay beyond it. Wray Castle, further down
on the left, forms a prominent feature on the lake:—the
castle is a modern-antique, built by Mr. Dawson, and
really might be much worse. The site is admirable.
The wooded cliffs of Heald Brow succeed this, and con-
tinue until you are opposite Bowness again.
Excursion down the Lake.— In making this you
pass out of the 'mountains, and there is nothing requir-
ing special notice between Bowness and Newby Bridge,
which forms the steamer terminus. The excursion
is a pleasant one, notwithstanding. Several islands are16 Roads : Windermere to Ambleside. [Sect. i.
passed; and the shores, although not lofty, are full of
beauty. Towards Newby Bridge the lake contracts, as-
suming a river-like character. There is a comfortable
inn here, and the scenery which surrounds it, as well
as that on the Ulverstone road, deserves at least some
hours’ visit. From Newby Bridge a coach runs to
Ulverstone, and from Ulverstone there is a railway to
Furness Abbey. This latter should be seen, if in any
way feasible, although the plan of the present work
excludes a description of it.
PART II.
LIST OF CARRIAGE, CAE, AND OTHEK ROADS, NOT GIVEN IN
THE FOLLOWING PEDESTRIAN ROUTES.*
(a)	Windermere (or Bowness) to Ambleside
direct : but see the beginning of Route 1. Calgarth
Park, Lowwood, and Dovenest noticed in the excursion
up the lake, (p. 15) are passed en route. The bridge
crossed just below the Sun Inn is that of the lower
Troutbeck.
(b)	Windermere (or Bowness) to Ambleside, by
Troutbeck upper bridge, and descending to Lowwood.
“ Troutbeck Chapel,” stands just above the bridge, but
nothing need be said about it.
For the first part of the road the Elleray foot-path
described in Route 1, should be taken, into the Trout-
beck road; of course, not descending to the wooden
* It will be at once seen that the roads enumerated in this part,
and in the corresponding parts of the succeeding Sections, are
easily followed from the maps, without the necessity of any de-
tailed descriptions. Where any difficulty would be likely to arise
a few words of direction are given; and the chief points of interest
on the different roads are also noticed.Part 2.] Carriage Roads: Patterdale, Coniston. 17
foot-bridge. The views on the descent to Lowwood are
admirable, and the Troutbeck valley itself should on
no account be omitted: its simple pastoral beauty
will impress the traveller even after he has visited
bolder parts of the district. The lower part is suffi-
ciently seen from the present road; for the upper val-
ley, the Kirkstone road (see “<?” below) must be fol-
lowed. Or, still better, return from Kirkstone this
way, as in Section 4. Hogarth’s father and uncle
were natives of Troutbeck. The land owners are lo-
cally called “ statesmen.”
(c) Windermeee to Patterdale by Troutbeck
and the Kirkstone Pass: — This is the same road
as	as far as the Troutbeck upper bridge; and
the Elleray path should also be followed as noticed in
“ A” From the bridge, the right-hand road will of
course be taken, leading up to the last houses in Trout-
beck, and the “Mortal Man” inn, — so called from a
rhyming sign-board, the inscription on which was so
little worth quoting that the sooner the practice is
discontinued the better. Another inn, (the Traveller’s
Rest,) on the top of the pass, is reputed the highest
inhabited house in England. The gabled rock which
lias given its name to the pass is seen on tire left as
you begin to descend : it is as much like a “ kirk ” as
any thing else. The mountain on the left of the pass
with the noticeable “ Red Screes ” on its side, is also
Kirkstone Fell. Brothers’ Water, in the flat of the
valley half way to Patterdale, is so called from two
brothers having been drowned there : — an accident
which is said to have occurred twice. For Patterdale
and Ullswater, see Section 4.
(<d) Windermere to Hawkshead and Coniston
by Bowness and the Ferry. For Esthwaite Water,
Hawkshead and Coniston, see Section 3; the descent
on the latter lake is singularly beautiful. At Es-
thwaite, if time serves, it is worth crossing from Saw-
B18 Carriage Roads : io Grasmere. [Sect. i.
rey to the left bank of the lake, and following it to
Hawkshead. The distant mountain views on that side
are excellent, especially from the sloping bank of the
green knoll which projects into the lake half way down.
(e) Windermere to Ambleside (Grasmere, or
the Langdales) by Bowness and the Ferry, and along
the west side of the lake.
This is a walk of great beauty. Some attention to
the road is required at High Wray, but the necessary
turn to the right is well indicated on the map. On
reaching the lodge of Wray Castle, the modern church
deserves a visit. It is just inside the gates. For Am-
bleside, see Section 2.
To reach Grasmere or the Langdales (for which also
see Section 2) follow the road as far as Pull Bay, with
its cluster of modern villas ; a pretty situation, but
somewhat out of the way. At the extreme head of the
bay lies Pull Cottage, and immediately on the right of
this a path (marked on the map as a road) turns up an
ascent into a field. Following this, and crossing a
moor of no great extent, you come to Skelwith Fold,
from which a lane dips to Skelwith Bridge. Here the
road forks for Little Langdale on the left, and for
Grasmere and Great Langdale on the right, up the hill.
For Skelwith fall and Loughrigg tarn, see Section 2,
Part 2.
PART III.
PEDESTRIAN routes.
ROUTE I.
Windermere to Ambleside, by Elleray,
Trotjtbeck eoot-bridge, and Skelgill.—The main
road to Ambleside (see Part 2) has some beautiful fea-
tures. From Lowwood Hotel especially, the view overPart 3.] Pedestrian Route, No. 1: Mleray. 19
Windermere, backed by the Langdale Pikes and Bow
Fell, is one that will not be easily forgotten. But the
road is very dusty in fine weather, and very muddy in
wet; and reeking at all times with the abominations of
car-traffic, bad cigars, and cockneyism. If it is wished
to escape these, the following will be found a pleasant
variant. It is longer of course, and with some con-
siderable ups and downs; but it commands excellent
views of the Lake throughout, and also of the Trout-
beck valley, which otherwise is not seen.
Take the lower of the two gates close together on
the right-hand as you descend from the hotel stables:
it looks like a private entrance, but the road is public.
Some little way on, the road dips slightly, and passes a
stable on the left, just short of which the Applethwaite
Common routes eor Haweswater (Nos. 4 and 5)
turn off on the right. For Troutbeck, the foot-way
continues between an open fence on the left, and a cot-
tage on the right, and then on through the Elleray
grounds. There is no difficulty to the Troutbeck road
— in passing through a small copse, just after a narrow
lane between two low garden walls, the road forks; and
here the turn on the right hand, (not descending the
hill,) must be taken.
From the gate into the Troutbeck road follow the
latter for rather more than a mile, when you reach a
road turning up the hill on the right, with a direction
post to “Kendal;”—fronting the first cottages in
Troutbeck village, on the other side of the valley.
Just beyond this, there is a gate on the left, and a few
yards on, a second, with a cart-road which winds down
the bank of the Troutbeck river to a wooden foot-bridge
seen below. From this, a green lane ascends the op-
posite bank and leads through two gates, (by a small
farm on the right) to the lower Troutbeck road. Cross
this, and take another lane opposite, by a cottage on the
left. This slants up left and leads into the carriage-
b 220 Pedestrian Route, No. 1: Troutbeclc. [Sect. 1.
road from Troutbeck to Lowwood. Turn left and follow
this road for a few yards, and then take a rough grass-
lane on the right, which ascends steeply for some time,
and then, soon after passing a stone shed on the right,
leads at right angles (opposite a rifle butt) into
another lane of the same character running under the
brow of the hill, parallel with the Troutbeck valley.
Turn left again, and follow this, winding round the hill,
until yen come in sight of Wansfell Pike, the long
range of mountain in front, with a craggy peak in the
centre forming its highest point. Soon afterwards,
just beyond a fir plantation at a short distance on your
left, the lane bends away towards the right hand end of
Wansfell Pike. Here in front of you is a gate, over
which, under the left end of the Pike, you see a farm.
This is Skelgill; and a cart-road through the gate leads
to it, dipping, after a short distance, across some mea-
dows and crossing a stream by a wall in the corner.
There is no difficulty in reaching Skelgill (a) or in des-
cending from it to Ambleside ; a beautiful walk through
copse-wood. T)o not take any turn to the left until
close above the town, which you enter by the old road.
ROUTE II.
For Hotels and Inns see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 4.
Windermere to Mardale and Hawes Water,
by Troutbeck, Kentmere and the Nan Bield
Pass (Jb). — From Windermere follow the Elleray foot-
(a)	It is worth while going into the field just beyond the farm
on the left, and descending it to a rocky knoll on its edge, forming
a singularly good point of view. Wansfell Pike may he easily as-
cended, if wished, from Skelgill; see Section 2, Part 1.
(b)	It will he seen by the comparison of Routes 2 to 7, that,
besides some variations in the mode of reaching Kentmere (the
respective merits of which are explained where they occur) two
independent lines are given from Kentmere to Hawes Water, one
by Nan Bield, and the other by Sleddale, Both these are charm-Part 3.] Pedestrian Route, No. 1: Kentmere. 21
path (see Route 1) into the road which runs through
Troutbeck to Patterdale. Do not descend, however, to
the wooden foot-bridge, as in Route 1, but follow the
road to the Troutbeck stone bridge, close to the church.
Just short of the bridge, a lane turns off on the right,
ascending the hill between two stone fences, rather at
an angle back from the main road. Follow this, (still
bending right) above the How, after passing which,
the lane turns sharp to the left, and there is no further
difficulty to the top of the pass into Kentmere, beyond
that caused by the road itself, which slants up between
two walls with a never-endingness and indifference to
the tourist’s feelings aggravating in the last degree.
On achieving this ascent, you pass through a gate on to
the neck of moor dividing Troutbeck from Kentmere ;
shortly after which a turn on the left, the old Roman
road over 111 Bell and High Street, is to be carefully
ignored. The Kentmere road turns to the right, under
some rocky knolls, and, crossing the moor, soon after
passes through another gate, and descends by the
stream flowing into the Kentmere valley, keeping it at
some distance on the right. There is no difficulty un-
til you have nearly reached the valley, but here atten-
tion is required. The first homestead on the stream
by which you have descended is Kentmere Hall, — a
fortalice now occupied as a farm, but with a square tower
and gateway worth inspecting, if time serves. Be-
tween you and the hall, in a field on the right of the
ing walks, and it is hardly possible to have a preference. If time
serves, both should be taken, either going to or returning from
Hawes Water. (For the latter, see Routes 34—39). It should be
added that Kentmere was the birth-place of Bernard Gilpin, a
somewhat furious Protestant of the sixteenth century, known to
the hero-worship of his school as “ the apostle of the north.” It
is a fine valley, above the village, especially its upper end. The
lower valley, to Staveley, is not remarkable. A swampy-looking
bottom, left by the drainage of a lake which formerly stood there,
is rather an unpleasing feature in it0
B 322 Pedestrian Boute, No. 2: Kentmere. [sect. 1.
road, a detached block of rock, thatched with the moss
of the cliff from which it broke away centuries ago,
will not fail to catch the eye. Soon after passing this
point, the road crosses a small triangle of common,
with a stream on its near side, and then forks. Take
the left-hand road, which keeps up nearly on a level,
running between two walls and then through a gate,
to the left of a fir plantation at no great distance. This
is the junction of the Applethwaite Common Boute,
No. 4. The road on the right forms the divergence of
the Sleddale Boute (No. 3), descending between a
white house on the left and some farm buildings on the
right, to Kentmere church and bridge.
Following the left-hand road above indicated, you
pass the plantation (a track leading down into it is to
be eschewed,) and then dip to the foot of the crags
descending on the left from the 111 Bell chain; abstain-
ing, it may be observed, from a zigzag path which
crosses the neck of one of these crags. Shortly after
reaching their base, a farm is passed, and the road then
continues under the 111 Bell chain to the beautiful head
of Kentmere : one of the most perfect mountain group-
ings in the district. The Nan Bield Pass, however,
lies on the other side of the valley, and for this the
road must now be quitted. But the vale-head is well
seen in ascending the pass. The point to leave the
road is soon after passing the farm under the crag,
where there is a gate on the right leading by a cart-
track to a thatched stone shed in the meadows below.
There is no track after the shed, but follow a dyke
and then a fence in the same line, across the meadows,
until }7ou reach the embanked margin of the Kent,
continuing by which for some distance a stone bridge
is reached. There is no proper path here, but a pedes-
trian, without a rod, would no doubt be leniently dealt
with ; and there are no physical obstacles. The
three sides of a trapezium involved in reaching the same
point by the church and bridge are intolerable.Parts.] Pedestrian Route, No. 2: Nan Bield. 23
Crossing the bridge, and, a few yards on, turning out
of the cart-traclc into which it leads you, and taking a
short grass path to a wicket in the wall above, you are
in the main track for Nan Bield. The cart-track bends
back to the left head of the Kentmere valley. At this
point is the junction of the Staveley Route No. 6.
Follow this main track, having the slopes of Harter
Fell close above you on the right, until you come to
the foot of a long spur descending from Harter Fell,
aslant the Kent valley, and terminating in some bold
rocks, fringed underneath with wood. Here a stream
is crossed, flowing between Harter Fell and the spur;
on the other side of which you go through a gate, and
are then in a road, a grass track at first, which, after
passing above some large sheep-pens on the right, zig-
zags up for some distance, and then slants on the right
to the slate-quarries on the side of Harter Fell. At
the point where it makes this slant, there is a large flat
stone on the right. Here quit the road and ascend the
grass slope above, between a low rocky hump on the
right and a larger chain of rock on the left, but making
for the left side of the low hump. Some faint zigzags
in the grass may be traced in the same direction, and,
on reaching the level of the hump, there is a well-
marked foot-track above it, keeping along the right
edge of the spur you have ascended until you are op-
posite the quarries. Here it bends left and ascends a
second, and higher, ridge dipping from Harter Fell.
The track over this latter ridge is well marked, just on
the left of a rocky knoll in its centre.
On rounding this knoll, it will be seen that the upper
Kentmere valley bifurcates, — the left-hand branch
running up under High Street, with a large reservoir
in it, now immediately below you on the left. The
right branch is the one in which the Nan Bield pass
lies, and beyond the knoll you see this track plainly
marked to the summit; dipping at first slightly, and24 Pedestrian Route, No. 2 : Haweswciter. [Sect. 1.
then continuing with a very gradual ascent until it
reaches the foot of the really alpine-looking col, the
lowest depression of the ridge uniting Harter Fell on
the right with the High Street chain on the left. The
col is climbed by some steep zigzags.
On reaching the summit, Hawes Water is seen
beyond a rocky spur descending from High Street
on the left. The road now dips at once to Mardale ;
at first in the previous direction over the col, and then
bearing left. Pursuing this direction for a short dis-
tance, you see below you Small Water, one of the most
picturesque tarns in the district. Blea Water, another
tarn of equal beauty, lies out of sight in the crags of
High Street above. The road, which is here a well-
marked bridle-road, descends by zigzags to the left side
of Small Water, and, crossing the stream which flows
from it, continues on the right bank of the latter to
the Mardale inn, and thence without difficulty to
Hawes Water, the head of which is about a mile down.
For Hawes Water, see Section 4. As there observed,
the tourist must not consider he has seen this lake
until he has looked up it from its lower end, or, at
least, from “ Measand Becks.” After viewing it from
these points, especially in its October colouring of fern
and foliage, he will probably carry away the impression
that, after allowing all merits of rival claimants, he has
seen, at any rate, the most perfect picture in “ The
Lakes.”
ROUTE III.
For Hotels, see part 1 of this Section and of Section 4.
Windermere to Mardale and Hawes Water,
by Troutbeck, Kentmere, and the Sleddale Val-
ley.—This route is the same as Route 2 as far as the
small triangular common (page 22), noticed as the point
of divergence of the Sleddale and Nan Bield passes, the
latter, as there noticed, taking a turn to the left after
crossing the common.Part 3.] Pedestrian Route, No. 3: Sleddale.
25
For Sleddale, take the right-hand road, passing be-
tween the white house on the left and farm buildings
on the right, noticed on page 22. Keep under the
white house, and then through a gate and across a
stream, after which the right-hand turning, keeping
down by the stream, leads to Kentmere church. Pass-
ing under this, the road dips to the bridge over the
Kent, where there is a small inn : — the last that will
be seen until reaching Mardale.
Cross the bridge, and take the left-hand turning,
keeping by the stream, and disregarding some field-
paths ascending to the cottages on the right, and lead-
ing to a rough track, which, as seen from the other
side of the valley, apparently would be, but is not, a
shorter cut to the Sleddale pass. At a short distance
on, the road makes a sharp turn to the right, leading
back to these cottages: keep up on the grass by the
wall on your left, which a few yards above leads
into a main road coming from the cottages, and forming
the Statelet Routes Nos. 6 and 7. Turning left,
and following this road, you continue parallel with the
stream for a short distance, when the road forks just
short of a fir plantation on the left, the left-hand branch
descending to the stream, and forming the pass from
Statelet to Hawes Water bt Nan Bield (see
Route 6).
For Sleddale, take the right-hand turning, which as-
cends away from the stream, rounding the shoulder of a
hill, until it reaches a corner where you have in front of
you some farms on the lower slope of Harter Fell, with
two noticeable peat roads slanting leftward up the fell
above the farms. The view from this point of the up-
per Kentmere valley with the amphitheatre of 111
Bell and High Street enclosing it, is one of the finest
mountain groupings in the district. A short distance
beyond this corner the road goes through a gate and then
makes a sharp turn back to the right, by the side of a wall,26
Pedestrian Route, No. 3: Sleddale, [Sect. 1.
the left-hand turn continuing to the Harter Fell farms.
Keeping up by the wall, you enter a lane still bearing
right, and then soon after turn to the left again, and
reach a farm on the edge of the open moor. The
road keeps on the right of the farm, and passes, through
a gate, on to the moor, from which it ascends by an easy
slope to the summit of the pass, keeping a stream
which flows in front of the farm on its right until just
below the top. Here it crosses the stream, goes through
a gate, and then crosses the summit ridge, which is
very narrow, to the side of the stream descending into
Sleddale. Follow this until you reach another gate,
with a second (wicket) gate into a field just below it on
the right. Here the road turns away from the Sled-
dale stream, going through the upper of these two
gates, and then continuing without difficulty, with a
wall on its right throughout, to the houses in the vil-
lage. Opposite to these, a bridge is seen, on crossing
which you are then in the main road up the valley.
The latter, although smaller than Kentmere, has a
strikingly picturesque and secluded character. Turn-
ing left from the bridge, the road follows the stream
along the flat of the upper valley, and to the summit
of the first ascent above it. The road is a good cart-
road, and the stream, which, as you begin to ascend,
flows in a deep channel between rocks, is kept on the
left throughout. At the top of the ascent, just oppo-
site a pretty waterfall, you reach a quarry with some
deserted huts, and here the stream forks, the left-hand
branch bending away to Harter Fell, the mountain
which forms the left wall of Sleddale. The road
passes the quarries, crosses the right fork of the stream
by a bridge, and then bends to the left, rounding under
a low grass hillock on that side, and keeping the stream
just crossed close on its right. On rounding the hil-
lock, you see a sheep pen at no great distance, just
short of which the road divides, the right-hand trackPart 3.] Pedestrian Route, No. 3 : Sleddole. 27
recrossing the stream and then following it along the
boggy upper valley in front of you. The Mardale and
Hawes Water track turns to the left, passing between,
the sheep-pen on the right and a rocky knoll on its left,
on rounding which you have above you the grassy
slopes on the northern side of Harter Fell, with the road
zigzagging up them, but with a general direction to the
right. It is well marked to the summit: — two turns
to some large quarries on the left, one just beyond the
rocky knoll, and the other about half way up the ascent
(crossing a small rill of water), will of course be avoided.
On reaching the top of the zigzag, the path continues
still slightly ascending, bending rather to the left, to-
wards Harter Fell, and passing a slope of boggy ground
on its right, until it reaches the summit level. Here
it turns to the right, to a little stony hillock which
it crosses, and then continues bearing right, to the edge
of the hollow leading down into Mardale. From this
point you descend by zigzags to a lower plateau of moor,
which is crossed to a sheep pen. Another set of zig-
zags then leads down to the level of the valley, where
you are joined on the left by the track from the Nan
Bield Pass (Route 2) and continue without difficulty to
the Mardale inn and Hawes Water. (See page 24).
ROUTE IT.
For hotels and inns, see part 1 of this Section and of Section 4.
From Windermere to Maedale and Hawes
Water by Applethwaite Common, Kentmere and
the Nan Bield Pass.— The tourist who has only
one day to spare had better take Route 2, notwith-
standing the somewhat severe character of the pass
from Troutbeck to Kentmere. If however Troutbeck
has been otherwise seen, the following route will be
found to be much easier and more direct for Kentmere,
and with a little attention to the necessary detail here28 Pedestrian Route, No. 4: Applethwaite. [Sec. 1.
given there will be no difficulty in finding the track.
Take the Elleray footpath as in Route 1, but at the
point just short of the stable on the left, noticed on
page 19, as the divergence of the present Route, take a
rough foot track which here turns off on the right
from the main path, and ascends the rising ground
above you. Following this track, which slants left-
ward, (and avoiding therefore the turn to the right,
soon after you have entered it,) you come into one of
the Elleray carriage drives, and have in front of you
two roads going up the hill, the lower one through a
gate. Take the uppermost, and follow it till the road
makes a bend left and then right, just after which you
reach a stone step-stile, — with a beautifully framed
view of the head of Winandermere from it. Crossing
this into the field beyond, you keep by a wall, and then
out on an open rocky common. Advancing a few yards
on this, you see before you on the left, but at some dis-
tance on, two farms. Here the path forks: take the
right and least trodden track, which keeps up on the
common, in the direction of the further farm, and then
reaches a corner where two walls meet, with a stone
step-stile in each. Cross the stile on the right, and
you are then in a grass track, running alongside of the
wall, and continuing without difficulty until a lane is
reached which brings you out in front of the further
farm : —■ a picturesque homestead adorned with two
clipped yews. Opposite the farm, are two lanes on
the right :	the first turning off at right angles,
through a gate, a few paces short of the farm, and the
other, and better-looking one, continuing the previous
direction, but with a slant to the right. Follow the
latter, which is soon crossed by a road at right angles,
(which of course will be disregarded) and then, some
way further on, comes to a corner where it runs into
the carriage-road from Troutbeck to Kendal. On
the other side of this carriage-road, not exactly oppo-Part 3.] Pedestrian Route, No. 4: Apjpletlncaite. 29
site to you, but rather to the left, is another lane, which
is to be taken, passing on the right of a small planta-
tion of firs, the apex of the latter separating the lane
from the carriage road. By taking this lane, it will be
at once seen that from the farm with the yew trees
you have been making a most objectionable angle.
There is, however, no remedy for this which is not itself
a greater evil, bringing you into collision with stone
walls and morasses, and saving some time at the sacri-
fice of more temper.
The lane now taken leads without difficulty to an-
other farm which you see below you in the bottom, with
a shoulder of moor rising above it on its further side.
Do not enter the farm, but follow the lane on the left
of it, which leads out by a gate to the foot of the
moor, and then continues skirting a plantation. Quit
this lane at the gate, and ascend the moor (a rough cart
track will soon be found,) keeping at first close to the
wall on the right side of the moor, and then, when the
wall bends away to the right, following the track away
from it, which makes a similar slant to the left, keep-
ing up through a kind of hollow towards some rocks on
the ridge above you. On reaching these, you wind
among them, and soon look over to the reverse side of
the moor : — a basin of heather, descending by a gra-
dual slope to the right, and skirted on the left by a
range of grass hills of no great height, terminating, at
the end nearest you, in some low brown hillocks.
Make for these latter, disregarding a track which turns
off on the right, straight across the heather. The path
you are following is very faint now, and on reach-
ing the hillocks becomes hopelessly perplexed with
cattle-tracks. It is useless attempting to keep to
these ; but make for the right-hand base of the chain
of grass hill before noticed, making a curve, first rather
to the left and then turning right again, so as to avoid
getting up on the slopes of this chain. On reaching30 Pedestrian Route, No. 4: Kentmere. [Sec. 1.
the base of the chain, you have before you, at no great
distance, a stone fence running down from it to a
stream which drains the basin of moor and descends
towards the further of two plantations below you on
the right. Make for a point in the fence about half-
way between the base of the grass hills and the stream;
there is a reliable track now, although rather faintly
marked. Here you find a stone step-stile, crossing
which you must make your way over a broken piece of
moor to the following point, viz., the apex of two other
walls which meet in a right angle, a few hundred yards
below you on your right. Here you cross a stream
and go through a gate just above it, and are then in a
well-marked road running along by the leftmost of the
two walls, which it follows without difficulty into Kent-
mere, keeping it close on its right hand throughout until
some quarries are reached, just below which the road
descends to Kentmere Hall, (see page 21.) Here the
Sleddale Route (No 5) diverges.
For Nan Bield, cross the small stream in front of
you, and keep under the lower wall of the Kentmere
Hall farm buildings, until you reach the gate at its
further end. Going through this, and then through
the wicket just beyond, you come to a path up the
sloping grass field above ; — the path is faintly marked
at first, but keeps on the left of the grass knoll in the
field. Following this path, you come out by some
cottages with a yew tree in the garden beyond them;
and here some attention is necessary. The track you
are upon goes through a gate, and then continues
straight on to some farm buildings in front. Do not,
however, follow it to these, but from the gate follow
another road which leads up across the small piece of
broken ground above you to the corner of a wall on its
right-hand side. Here you cross another road, which
immediately afterwards descends between a white
house on the left and the farm buildings on the right31
Part 3.] Pedestrian Route, No. 4: Staveley.
towards Kentmere Church. Crossing this road, take
the one opposite to you, which runs between two walls,
and then through a gate, to the left side of a fir plan-
tation a short distance in advance. You are then, as
will be seen by reference to page 22, on the road from
Windermere to Nan Bield via Troutbeck, described in
Route 2. The latter route will of course serve for the
rest of the pass.
ROUTE Y.
For hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 4.
From Windermere to Mardale and Hawes
Water, by Applethwaite Common, Kentmere and
the Sleddale Valley. — This route is identical with
Route 4 (to which refer) as far as Kentmere Hall,
page 30.
Here, instead of taking the field-path above the farm-
buildings, as described at page 30, keep the lane straight
to Kentmere Church, and the route will then be iden-
tical with that given in Route 3 from the same point.
See page 25.
ROUTE YI.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 4. There
are also Inns at Staveley.
From Windermere to Mardale and Hawes
Water by Stayeley, Kentmere and Nan Bield.
— The train will of course be taken to Staveley,
from which the road up the valley is followed without
difficulty, crossing the Kent after some distance, and
then keeping it on your left until near the village. On
approaching the latter, the church will be seen on the
opposite side of the stream, with a bridge below it.
Ho not descend to the latter, but where the road forks
(just after passing a farm a short distance off it on the
right) take the right-hand turn, keeping up on the32 Pedestrian Route. No. 6: Staveley. [Sect. 1.
bank, and then, shortly after, the left-hand. This leads
by some cottages, keepingr under which, you reach a
grass patch on the left, where another lane which has
ascended from the bridge in a direction up the stream
bends at a sharp angle back to the cottages. Soon after
this you come to a point where the road forks, just short
of a fir plantation, and where the Sleddale routes Nos.
3, 5, and 7 all diverge. Here take the left-hand branch,
towards the stream, and follow, passing some farms and
cottages. There is no difficulty in this, the road being
wTell marked, and keeping the stream on the left all the
way. After passing the last house, the road runs along
the open ground under the slopes of Harter Fell, with
the meadows in the flat bottom of the Kent below it
on the left. Here observe the point (just before you go
through a gate under a low crag on the right) where
there is a stone bridge below you on the left, crossing
over from the meadows into a cart-track which runs
between you and the stream. A short distance beyond
the bridge, a footpath of a few yards leaves the cart-
track, passing through a wicket in the wall below you
on the left, and then slanting up into the road in which
you are, joining it at the gate. This point is identical
with the one similarly described in Route 2, page 23 ;
and that route will of course be followed for the
rest of the pass.
ROUTE VII.
Hotels. See as in'Route 6.
Windermere to Mardale and Hawes Water by
Staveley, Iaentmere and the Sleddale Valley.
This route is identical with Route 6 as far as the point
described above as forming the divergence of the
Sleddale routes, where the road, after passing the cot-
tages above Kentmere bridge, forks just short of a fir
plantation. Here, instead of taking the left-hand turn,
dipping towards the stream, take that to the right, asPart 3.] Pedestrian Route, No. 8 : High Street. 33
in Route 3, page 25, and thence proceed as in that
route, ascending away from the stream, and rounding
the shoulder of the hill above you, as there described.
Route viii.
For Hotels see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent oe High Street erom Windermere.—
Proceed as in Route 2 as far as Troutbeck bridge,
close to the Church. Here, instead of turning up
the lane on the right, by The How cross the bridge
and follow the right-hand (Patterdale) road up the hill
to the second turning on the right: — the first turn
leads over another bridge to the farm opposite the
Church. This second turn is the junction of the As-
cent erom Ameleside, Route 11. It is a narrow
dirty-looking lane at first, but soon improves, and
leads without difficulty to the farm lying at the foot
of “ Troutbeck Tongue; ” the very noticeable grass
ridge which divides the upper Troutbeck valley into
two branches. Passing through the farm, (or a short
cut may be made to the same point without doing so,)
you join the well-marked track which runs up the right-
hand branch of the valley, i. e. the right-hand branch
as you face it, having the grass slopes of the “ Tongue”
close above you on your left. Follow this track until
you come opposite to a deeply scarred ravine which
descends from 111 Bell on your right, just beyond
which a grass road is seen slanting left-wards up the
face of the mountain, (a) Before coming to the ravine,
and running parallel with the track you have been fol-
lowing from the farm, there is another high-level road,
carried in a straight line along the face of 111 Bell:
this will of course not be confused with the slanting
road just mentioned.
(a) This involves an ascent and descent, and the lane afterwards
does not go very straight. But it will be found better to follow it
than to try keeping on the 111 Bell side of the Mountain.
C34 Pedestkian Route, No. 8 : High Street. [Sect. 1.
Crossing the Troutbeck stream to this slanting road,
and also the stream flowing from the ravine, you then
ascend by the latter for a short distance, between it and
a wall, after which you come out on the open side of
the mountain. From this point there is no difficulty to
the highest point of the chain overlooking Troutbeck.
This however is not High Street; the latter is a still
higher although flat-topped mountain lying further back
to the right, over the head of Kentmere. There is no
difficulty in reaching it, beyond the boggy character of
the table-land which forms the summit; the view is re-
markably good, a happy combination of sea, lake, and
mountain, (a) High Street is the highest point of the
chain of which 111 Bell and its adjacent peaks form
the southern limb, and which dips to Kidsty Pike and
Lade Pot on the north. A Roman road, now only
distinguishable in part, runs along the entire chain;
unquestionably the highest road yet attempted in Eng-
land. The Caudine Forks seem never to have died out
of the Roman heart, On High Street itself a fair was
formerly held. Red deer may occasionally be seen on
these hills.
The descent may be made, either to Patterdale by
Hayes Water, or by the very beautiful Small Water to
the Mardale side of the Nan Bield pass. There is no
difficult}1" in either descent to require special notice.
For Small Water, the cliffs above Blea Water should be
rounded in the direction of Mardale until you reach a
gully in the rock, by which it is easy to clamber down
to the grass slope descending on the lower end of Small
Water.
(a) No description or detail of views is given in this and the
subsequent mountain ascents. To the tourist who does not yet
know the country, such detail is a mere catalogue of names: to one
who does, it is superfluous.SECTION II.
AMBLESIDE, RYDAL, GRASMERE, AND
THE LANGDALES.
PART I.
NAMES OF HOTELS AND OTHER HEADS OF GENERAL
INFORMATION.
Hotels and Inns are:
At Ambleside : Queen’s; (formerly Brown’s Commer-
cial ; rebuilt 1863-4.) Salutation; White Lion;
Waterhead, adjoining the landing-pier. Low wood
Hotel is about a mile and a quarter down the lake;
all the steamers call there.
At Grasmere; Prince of Wales, on the lake; Red
Lion, in the village; Swan, on the Dunmail Raise
Road.
In Great Langdale:	Mackreth’s New Dungeon
Ghyll Hotel, the nearest to Ambleside; Dungeon Ghyll
Hotel, about a mile further.
At Skelwith Bridge, Elterwater, and Langdale vil-
lage, there are small inns; and there is another in
Little Langdale, between Colwith Bridge and Lang-
dale Tarn.
AMBLESIDE.
This is a genuine mountain-town, and a very pretty
one. It is not strictly a lake-town, although Mr. Brown,
by an ingenuity beyond all praise, has contrived to se-
cure a peep of Winandermere from the handsome coffee-
room of his new hotel. But the lake is only a mile off;
there is constant omnibus transit to and from it: and it
c 236	Ambleside : St. Mary's Church. [Sect. 2.
is hard to say that, if you had the choice, you would not
leave Ambleside where it is. Nothing can well be love-
lier than its green basin of meadow, hemmed in by
Loughrigg and Wansfell Pike, and apparently finding a
cut de sac in the deep hollow of Fairfield, until you
detect the defile on the left through which the Gras-
mere road passes. Ambleside is not unlike Beddgelert;
but it succeeds in producing an impression which the
latter always promises to do, and fails. Of course we
speak of Beddgelert in itself: — Ambleside has no Pont
Aberglaslyn.
The chief points of interest are as follows : —
St. Mart’s Church.— Erected within the last few
years, from the designs of Mr. G. G. Scott. It is one
cf the few works of the great architect of the renais-
sance which may be thought to contain questionable
features. It is difficult to like the spire, in itself. The
employment of a spire at all in a mountainous country
is open to question. And the north side of the Church,
from the Bydal road, is somewhat flat and unmeaning.
But these defects, if they exist, are more than redeemed
by the treatment of the south side, where advantage
has been taken of the site to secure a most effective porch,
approached by a flight of steps. No one can fail to be
struck with the beauty of this portion of the building.
The interior is what a Church should be, and the entire
structure a great credit to the town, and centuries in
advance of that in the upper town which preceded it
and is still occasionally used. There may be minds
which prefer a church of the latter type; but the
persuasion of mankind in general lies the other way.
The service is not without merit: it is on Sundays
only, and not musical throughout; but what is done
is well done. The well-known ceremony of “ Rush
Bearing” still survives here, and at Grasmere. On the
last Saturday in July garlands of flowers and rushes
are carried in procession to the Church and arranged as
a decoration for the following day.Parti.]	Ambleside; near Walks.	37
Stock Ghyll Force. — A remarkably pretty fall,
one of the most pleasing in the district. A road
by the “ Salutation ” stables leads up to it without
difficulty, passing a bobbin mill on the other side.
Wansfell Pike.—This is the long ridge of moun-
tain lying above the town on the right. It may be
climbed from the road above Stock Ghyll Force, which
continues to a farm at the head of the valley. (a) But
the best ascent is to take the old road from Ambleside
to the lake, turning up by Mr. Jefferson’s, the wine
merchant. Just before this road re-joins the new one,
a steep rough lane ascends the hill on the left. At
a point above this, the lane forks, the left branch
going up the hill to a cottage. Take the lane on the
right, which runs parallel with the lake at first, then
makes a steep ascent, and then follows the line of the
lake again, continuing by a more gradual rise to Skel-
gill Farm, (see map.) Here you are on the west
ridge of the Pike, and by keeping along it you reach
the summit without difficulty.
Doyenest. — An attractive residence on the hill
above Lowvvood. Mrs. Hemans occupied it for a few
months. A pretty footpath leads to the house, turning
out of the Windermere road on the left, just beyond
the turnpike. You can descend from Dovenest to
Lowvvood, or continue, by a very steep but beautiful
ascent, to Skelgill farm just mentioned. A stone wall
has to be climbed at the top.
Scahdale Upper Bridge.—The main stream of
the Ambleside valley is the Rothay, flowing from Rydal
Lake. Three lateral valleys descend into this : — the
Stock Ghyll valley just noticed, between Wansfell Pike
on the right and Kirkstone Fell on the left; Scandale,
between Kirkstone Fell and Rydal Head; and Rydale,
between Rydal Head and Fairfield.
(a) A track across some boggy ground above the farm leads
into the road from Patterdale to Troutbeck.
o 338
Ambleside: near Walks.
[Sect. 2.
Scandale is a narrow valley with a rough track over
its head into Patterdale. It has no special feature
in its upper part, but the bridge above noticed is pic-
turesque, with a pretty walk to it. As indicated in the
map, the uppermost of the two roads which run parallel
with the Rydal road on the right, must be taken. The
turning to both roads is just short of the old Church.
From the bridge, besides the pass into Patterdale,
scrambles on Kirkstone Fell and the Fairfield range
may be made ad libitum.
Scandale Lowed Bridge.—The lower of the two
roads parallel with the Bydal road on the right leads to
a farm, just beyond which the Scandale stream is crossed
by a lower and larger bridge than the one just noticed.
There are some good points in this, but the visitor
should not stop here, but, crossing the bridge, should
follow the path (a) by the stream on the other side for
a short distance, until he comes opposite a very notice-
able staircase of rock, of no great height or steepness,
in the bed of the stream. Climbing up this, which is
wholly without difficulty, you reach a bend of the river,
concealed from below, and forming a circular basin of
great beauty, overshadowed by the trees and miniature
cliff of the left bank. Undine might have emerged
from the grotto-pool of this solitude. It is hardly
necessary to add that a dry day is indispensable for this
walk, and it should, if possible, be a hot one too. Given
these conditions, and the scene is one you will not easily
match.
Wale: to Uydal.—Take the footpath to the Church
which leads under the archway immediately on the left
of the Queen’s Hotel; the latter in fact being partly
built over it. It is worth diverging into the Church-
(a) This path formerly continued up the stream for some dis-
tance and then crossed it again, joining the road on the other side
above described. But the bridge for this crossing has disappeared
for some years, and the path itself is now stopped by a wall.Part 1.]
Ambleside: near Walks.
39
yard, irrespectively of the building itself, in order to
get the view from the rocks fronting the north porch.
Returning from these, the path crosses a bridge over
the Rothay. Turning right, you are then in a carriage-
road to Rydal, skirting the base of Loughrigg Fell, and
studded by several villas. The first reached of these is
Fox Flow: — Dr. Arnold’s. The next, nooked into a
charming dingle of Loughrigg on the left, is Fox Gfhyll,
which, with other houses along the road, is let as lodg-
ings. At Pelter Bridge the road joins the coach-road,
and Rydal is just beyond: the village with its falls and
near walks, is described on a subsequent page. Oppo-
site the last house before Pelter Bridge some attractive
stepping-stones cross the Rothay, leading to a farm
a little off the coach-road.
Walk to Grasmere.—Proceed as in the walk to
Rydal, but instead of crossing Pelter bridge at the end
of it, follow the rough cart-road which bends back on
the left, above some farm buildings. This leads with-
out difficulty to Rydal lake, the margin of which it
skirts, keeping close to the water: — there is another
road which turns up on the left towards Loughrigg, and
also leads to Red Bank and Grasmere, but the one by
the water side is the best. From the end of Rydal Lake
the road ascends steeply, keeping parallel with the
Rothay, although with some woods between you and
the stream, and skirting the lower slopes of Lough-
rigg. After some distance you climb a grass neck
of land, and the road then crosses the face of Red
Bank, a steep slope which dips from the summit of
Loughrigg into the lower end of Grasmere Lake. The
view from the terrace thus formed is deservedly the
favourite view of the lake. It is one of those scenes
which you can never forget, or think of without emo-
tion ; never the same, but always lovely: disappointing
only when you feel how little the power of enjoyment
is commensurate with the beauty which claims it. At40	Ambleside: near Wallcs.	[Sect. 2.
the end of the terrace, a small stream is crossed, flowing
into the right-hand corner of the lake, and just beyond
this a private road is reached on the right, which, by
the kindness of the proprietor, Mr. Balme, is open to
pedestrians (a). It is to be hoped his courtesy may not
he abused. This road descends by easy curves, with
admirable views of the lake and mountains, and joins
the car-road just above Dale End farm. If late or
tired, it is useful to know that you may be ferried
across the lake here. Indeed, it is worth making
the passage in any case, to get the beautiful view
from the lawn in front of the house ; at which, it may be
mentioned by the way, there are excellent lodgings.
The car-road keeps round the left side of the lake to
Grasmere church and village. These latter are des-
cribed further on, as well as the main road, by which
you return to Rydal and Ambleside. See page 47.
Ascent oe and Walks on Loughkigg.— From
all points round Ambleside, a house with terraced
gardens, on a projecting spur of Loughrigg, is a con-
spicuous object. On the right of this, a road zigzags
up the hill, and passing a farm, comes out on the open
fell above. Follow this road, which continues nearly in
a straight line, although rather faintly marked in the
grass, until it is joined at right angles by another grass
track running up from Rydal Lake. Here you are
close under the summit of Louhgrigg, which however
lies out of sight, a little on the right. There is no
difficulty in ascending to it from this point, and the top
is marked by a cairn. Be careful to observe that the
point where these two roads join, and where the ascent
begins, is not until you are opposite a hollow ascending
from Rydal Lake: — the latter is not seen, but its
(a) From the grass neck between Rydal and Grasmere, a pub-
lic footpath descends to the water’s edge, and continues through
the wood at the bottom, coming out at the same point as Mr.
Balme’s road.Part i.]	Ambleside : near Walks.	41
position is marked by Nab Scar, the southern base of
Fairfield, which fills up the hollow.
Instead of ascending to the summit of Loughrigg, a
beautiful view may be obtained by turning left at the
junction of the two roads just mentioned, and continu-
ing for some distance slightly descending, until some
rocks are reached a little above the road and with a foot
track running over them. This is one of the best pos-
sible views of the Great Langdale valley and “ the
Pikes; ” it has the speciality of seeing them over the
beautiful “ Loughrigg Tarn,” which lies at your feet.
There is another capital point of view on Loughrigg,
above Clappersgate. Follow the Skelwith and Lang-
dale road, which turns down on the right by an iron-
monger’s shop. This leads to a bridge over the Ro-
thay; and Clappersgate is the hamlet a short dis-
tance on, lying under the cliffs of Loughrigg. The
large house at the entrance of the hamlet on your
right, is Croft Lodge; immediately beyond the yellow
stables of which, a gate enters a field, with a rather un-
promising looking path ascending to its left corner.
This soon improves however, and, crossing a small
wood, zigzags up the hill above, at first slanting left,
and then bending back into the opposite corner. Here,
just above you on the right, are some rocky peaks
from which there is an excellent view down Winander-
mere.
In addition to those above detailed, Loughrigg
abounds in enjoyable rambles in every direction. One
very pretty path up it ascends the dingle above Fox
Ghyll.
The above form the principal points of interest im-
mediately round Ambleside. The more distant excur-
sions will be found in parts 2 and 3 of this section;
and the Grasmere and Rydal walks may also be taken,
if wished, from Ambleside.42
Rydal : Church, Falls.
[Sect. 2
RYDAL VILLAGE AND LAKE.
Rydal is a diminutive hamlet, happily without even
a public-house, although there are several pleasant
lodgings. The first point of interest is Wordsworth’s
House, Rydal Mount. This lies just above the church,
on the left of the broad clean-looking road which as-
cends the hill to the latter. If the visitor is for-
tunate enough to procure admission, he will admire the
surprise of the view over Rydal Lake. The front of
the house commands a fair view of Winandermere, but
none of R}Tdal. Two terraces on the right however,
which formed the poet’s favourite walk, lead to an old-
fashioned summer house in the corner, apparently form-
ing the termination of the grounds. A door in this is
opened, and you have then before you most unexpectedly,
the whole of Rydal Lake, charmingly “ set,” with the
picturesque outline of the Crinkle Crags over it.
Rydal Hall (the large house on the right, as you
come from Ambleside) and Rydal Church.—Neither
of these require much notice. The Hall is the ancient
family seat of the Le Flemings: its parks contain
some fine wild bits, guarded by the stiffest of stone
fences. The church was erected by the late Lady le
Fleming, a kind-hearted benefactress to all within her
reach. But it came into the world before its time. It
was a sore vexation to Wordsworth that, being where
it is, it should be what it is. His memory, and, may
we add, the chance of seeing on Sundays the lady who
still occupies Fox How, and bears the venerated name
of its late master, are the only inducements we know
of for visiting it.
Rydal Falls. — These are in the Hall grounds.
They are of much celebrity, and worth the shilling
paid for the guide’s attendance, which their near-
ness to the house seems to necessitate. The attendance
itself, not of this particular guide, who is most obliging,Part 1.]
Rydal: near Walks.
43
but of any person whom you feel yourself detaining
for your own gratification, is an item to be thrown
into the scale per contra.
The Lake. — Rydal Water, as it is properly called,
is undeniably pretty ; capable, indeed, of looking beau-
tiful at some times, and from some points. The coach-
road skirts its right shore. A short distance along the
latter, some steps are seen on the left, leading to a
rock with an excellent near view of the lake. The
cliff above you on the right is Nab Scar; and the cot-
tage at its foot is Nab Cottage, where Hartley Cole-
ridge lived. It is the only house by the water’s edge.
Walk to Grasmere, by the left side of the lake
and Red Bake.— This is described on page 39. It is
reached from Rydal either by Pelter Bridge, on the
Ambleside road, or by the pretty foot-bridge on the
left, a little beyond Rydal church. From this bridge,
a path turns to the right, and leads through the mea-
dow by the lake ; after which, it crosses a wood, and
joins the Red Bank road. But it is in wet weather
better to turn left, and go through the farm above
the bridge, used as a school-house, turning right again
at the back of this.
Walk to Grasmere, by the right side of the lake.—
Soon after passing the Nab Cottage above mentioned,
some quarries are reached; and here a rough road
crosses the neck of the spur projecting from Nab Scar
in front of you, and descends upon Grasmere by the
Prince of Wales Hotel. The coach-road continues
by the margin of the lake to the same point; while
there is a third road, which turns off to the right at
the further end of the quarries, and crosses a lower
point of the Nab Scar spur. In spite of dust and other
drawbacks, we recommend the coach-road for a first
visit. Few scenes will fix themselves more deeply in
the memory than the view from the corner where the
road first strikes Grasmere Lake, enhanced as it is by44
Rydal : near Walks.
[Sec. 2.
the somewhat dull half-mile which precedes it. In
returning1, the middle road should be taken, passing
the “ Wishing Gate,” described on a subsequent page.
The third road, by the quarries, forms a pleasant short-
cut when the others are known ; some rocks near it
command a view of both lakes.
Besides these three roads, there is a path, also on the
right side of Rydal Water, running parallel with the
coach-road, but higher up on Nab Scar. It is rather
rough, but has some excellent points of view. The ap-
proach to it is by the lane leading past the church,
from the top of which you turn to the left.
The Rydale.—The broad road leading to the
church and Wordsworth’s house narrows at the top of
the ascent, and becomes, if you continue straight on, a
rough cart-road leading up this dale, the stream from
which makes the Rydal falls. Rydale, as already men-
tioned, lies in the hollow between Rydal Head on the
right and Fairfield on the left, and the latter may be
ascended without difficulty from any part of it, taking
care not to strike the ridge too soon, so as to involve
descending again into the depression about half way
along it. The actual summit lies out of sight, imme-
diately behind the vale-head. The views over Winan-
dermere, and sea-ward, are remarkably good from it ;
and the Patterdale side of the mountain breaks into
some bold cliffs with screes.
But the most attractive feature in Rydale is a ridge
of bare slanting rock which crosses the stream from side
to side, about half way up the valley. In wet weather,
the beck no doubt dashes over this fast enough. But
in ordinary seasons it forms a natural causeway, with the
clear green-hued water shooting by it into an open basin
beneath ; — a rock bath of transparent chrysophrase,
the 7ro#o9 of which steals over one in July afternoons
in chambers, while exhausting the presumable senses in
which a wrong-headed testator with great-grand-child-
ren may have intended to employ the term “issue.”Part lj
Rydal : near TValJcs.
45
Nab Scab.—As above mentioned, this is the southern
base of Fairfield, forming a beautiful feature in all the
Rydal views. It is tempting to “run up it,” although
the climb is tolerably severe, and the view very much
below that from Fairfield itself. The track is seen
from below, ascending between two walls ; it is reached
from the lane leading up to the Church, turning to the
left at the top. Being on Nab Scar, you may of course
continue to the top of Fairfield; but it is not the
best way of ascending the latter, as there is a consider-
able dip between the two summits.
Loughbigg.—From the left side of Rydal Water,
a road quits the track to Grasmere, and turns up on
the left towards Loughrigg, behind a plantation by the
water’s edge. Here it crosses a hollow with a stream
flowing down it, and then forks, one branch bending
away to the right, and eventually rejoining the Gras-
mere track. The other branch is a fairly-marked cart-
road, which ascends the hollow, and crosses to the
south side of Loughrigg, where you reach the patch of
rocks with the view of Langdale and Loughrigg Tarn
described on page 41. The road runs nearly in a straight
line all the way, and may be made out with a little at-
tention. The summit of Loughrigg may be ascended
from it, see page 40. And, by turning to the left, and
winding among the rocks until you are over Brathay
Church, you come to the point of view described on
the lower part of page 41.
The “Rydal Man,” is the name given to the notice-
able cairn on Loughrigg, immediately above the village.
It is reached by crossing Pelter Bridge; nearly opposite
to which there is a stone step-stile in the upper wall of
the sloping field above you, and this leads on to Lough-
rigg.
GRASMERE.
The tiny mountain village of former days is rapidly
becoming a populous place. It is only just to add that46	Grasmere : Wordsworth's Grave.	[Sec. 2.
it attractiveness is very little, if at all, diminished by
the change. The numerous lodging-houses and private
residences which have sprung up during the last few
years are all in the best taste; — gabled two-storied
villas of the natural stone, which in a wilder scene
might be intrusive, but here, from many points of view,
really add to the finish which constitutes the special
charm of Grasmere.
The principal points requiring notice are as follows: —
The Church.—The tower of this is old, and, in spite
of its quaint heavy build and stuccoed walls, forms a
capital feature from all points. And very pleasant, on
Sundays and practising evenings, is the chime of its old-
fashioned peal of bells across the lake. For the inside
one cannot say much, although this is quaint enough
too.
The Churchyard.—If the visitor to the Lakes does
not already know that Wordsworth and Hartley Cole-
ridge are interred here, he will speedily learn it from the
placards and sign-boards which announce the fact in
every direction. It is true they speak of “ Coleridge ”
only; so that the one excursionist out of a hundred who
has heard of a certain “Samuel Taylor” may experience
some disappointment. To the ninety-nine, whom the
rigour of modern tourism dispatches on this pilgrimage
when they would sooner be drinking bottled porter at
Brown’s, it is probably wholly immaterial. But none
would more deprecate this appropriation of his father’s
name than the poet-souled Hartley himself.
The graves themselves are touchingly simple, and the
site worthy of them ; shadowed by tall hills, and washed
by the mountain stream which ripples in its rock basin
at their feet.
Wordsworth’s House.—The early part of Words-
worth’s married life was passed at Grasmere. His first
house, to which he brought his bride, and where Scott
'was for some time his guest, is just opposite the PrincePart lj
Grasmere : near Walks.
47
of Wales Hotel, on the “ Wishing Gate,” or middle,
road to Ambleside. He afterwards resided at Allan
Bank.
The three roads to Rydal —The coach-road runs
by the margin of the lake, and should be avoided. The
road turning out of it on the left, opposite to the Hotel,
makes a slight ascent, and then forks. The pleasantest
walk is to take here the left-hand branch, crossing the
neck of the projecting spur of Fairfield which separates
the two lakes, and from which they are both visible.
This descends to some quarries, where a cavern is shewn.
You then turn right, and shortly afterwards take the
right-hand turn up the hill, which brings you back to
Grasmere. About half-way along this return road, the
Wishing Gate is passed on the left-hand. It will be
at once recognized by the pleasing, but not first-rate
view which it opens over the lake and village. In
olden times, wishes framed at this gate were believed to
be granted. Perhaps they may be still.
Butterlip How.—The low wooded hill on the
right of the road leading from the village to the Swan
is thus called. There is a pretty foot-path from the
Easedale road, which turns out of the Swan road a
short distance from the Red Lion. But the ground
is now to be let on building lease.
Red Bank. — We have already spoken of the slop-
ing bank descending from Loughrigg to the foot of
Grasmere lake. The traveller who sees it in September
when the fern upon it is dyed a rich crimson, will see
that the name has been rightly given. The best ap-
proach is of course by boat, visiting en route the grass
island, with the clump of firs and barn at its south
end, which gives the lake so much of its character. By
land, Red Bank is reached from Grasmere in two ways.
For one, follow the Ambleside turnpike road until
you come to a wooden foot-bridge at some distance
below you on the right, crossing the stream which48
Grasmere : near Walks.
[Sect. 2.
flows from Grasmere into Rydal Water. Above this
bridge, turning right, a path leads up to Red Bank
through the wood. The second approach is by follow-
ing the Langdale road on the right of the lake, taking
the left-hand turn at the Church. This leads to the
water’s edge, and soon after rises steeply, passing Bale
End farm, where there are excellent lodgings : — the bay
window and sloping lawn of the farm are conspicuous
objects from all points. A little way above Dale End,
a private road on the left can be taken, ascending the
hill in easy curves, and leading to the terrace on Red
Bank. The use of this road is kindly permitted to pe-
destrians : — there is also a public foot-path entering at
the same gate, and leading to the foot of Red Bank.
The view from the latter has been noticed, page 39.
Loughrigg summit.—The ascent of Loughrigg is
easily made from the Red Bank terrace. The summit,
which has a cairn on it, lies rather away to the left,
and a path may be found from the east end of the ter-
race road. But the climb is easily made anywhere'.
“Rest and be thankful.”—A wooden seat just
beyond High Close house, with a first-rate view of Great
Langdale and Winandermere, bears the above inscrip-
tion. From Dale End, instead of taking the private road
on the left, follow the steep car-road up the hill, until it
reaches the narrow neck on top uniting Loughrigg on
the left with Silverhow on the right. As this miniature
pass has no name of its own, the kind-hearted proprie-
tor of High Close will probably forgive our adapting
to it the distinguished one of “ Col cle Balme.” Here
the road forks, the left-hand descending by Loughrigg
tarn to the Brathay valley. That on the right slightly
ascends for a short distance further, when it reaches
High Close house; — one of the most delightful sites
in the district. “ Rest and be thankful,” as we have
said, is just beyond this.
Loughrigg tarn.—Take the left-hand turn fromPart 1.]
Grasmere : near VPalks.
49
the col just mentioned, and at the first cottages quit the
road, and take a rough track which keeps up through
the field at their back. This skirts the southern base
of Loughrigg, and leads to the tarn without difficulty.
The tarn has nothing wild about it, but its shape and
setting are graceful in the highest degree.
Old Road to Langdale.—Just short of Dale End,
take a turn on the right, passing a private house. The
wooded lane to which this leads is extremely pretty, with
capital views of the lake. It crosses a shoulder of Silver-
how, joining the Langdale road a little beyond the “Rest
and be thankful” seat.
Path to Langdale by Wyke House.—“The
Wyke” is the first house you come to after the road
on the right side of the lake begins to ascend from the
water’s edge: it stands on a rising ground on the right
of the road, with a carriage-drive leading to it across a
field. Adjoining the road, are some cottages belonging
to the property, with a stream flowing by them. A
rough road leads in at a gate by these cottages, and,
passing under the house, keeps up by the side of the
stream. On reaching the source of the stream, the
road ceases, but there is a foot-path which goes through
a stone step-stile on to the fell, and crosses it to Lang-
dale village, descending on the latter just short of the
Church. It is a pretty walk all the way, with one very
noticeable view of Grasmere and Rydal Lakes together,
by the side of a plantation. The same descent into
Langdale may be reached, by proceeding as in Route
14, but, instead of ascending Silverhow, keeping on
under the rifle butts, and then turning left. But the
path by “The Wyke” is preferable.
Path under Silverhow, descending by Allan
Bank.—This is also an extremely pretty walk. Pro-
ceed as in Route 14 ; but after crossing the field with
the plantation mentioned there, turn to the right in the
plantation, which brings you out by the side of a stream
D50
Grasmere : near Walks.
[Sect. 2.
descending between the Silverhow crags and the spur
from them at the foot of which “ Pavement End ” lies.
There is a path by this stream, leading up to the neck
uniting the spur with Silver How. Here take a very
rough road which descends steeply on the left side of
the spur, (not the grass lane on the right,) and follow
it past some cottages, from which it continues to the
carriage drive of Allan Bank house. The latter is a
public foot-way.
Sour Mile; Ghyll and Easedale Tarn. — See
the commencement of the Pedestrian Route No. 18.
Easedale Valley. — See at the commencement of
Route No. 20. On reaching the stepping-stones, about
a mile up, instead of continuing up the valley, the tour-
ist may turn up by the wall descending to the stream,
and cross the shoulder of the mountain above him. On
the other side of this is a boggy basin of no great
extent, crossing which, you are in the road to Easedale
Tarn.
Helm Crag and “The Stones.”—See Pedestrian
Route No. 15.
Hunmail Raise.—See the coach and car-roads in
Part 2 of this section, page 62. The walk may be
varied by following the lanes on the side of the stream
opposite the coach-road, and joining the latter at the
turnpike. For this purpose, proceed as in the Pedes-
trian Route 20, as far as the cottages and bridge men-
tioned at the commencement of that route, just after
you have crossed the road to the “Swan.” Here
turn right, and there is no difficulty, taking care not to
cross the main stream until you reach a point just short
of Mrs. Kerchever Arnold’s; — the highest house in
the valley, lying at the foot of Helm Crag, with a
terraced lawn and garden.
Fairfield Ascent.—See route 13. There is also
another beautiful walk up the hollow of the ravine by the
side of which the above ascent is made. To reach this,Part 2.] Carriaqe Road3 : Windermere, Ullswater. 51
proceed as in route 13; but, on reaching the stream, do
not cross it, but keep up by it, keeping it on your left-
hand.
N.B. For more distant excursions, see Parts 2 and
3 of this Section. For the Rydal and Ambleside walks,
see above, pages 37 to 45.
PART II.
LIST OF COACH, CAB, and otheb boads, not given in the
FOLLOWING PEDESTRIAN ROUTES.
(a)	Ambleside (Rydal and Grasmere) to Winder-
mere and Bowness, (coach-road.)
(b)	Ambleside (Rydal and Grasmere) to Winder-
mere and Bowness by Troutbeck upper bridge, turning
off the coach-road at Lowwood.
(c)	Ambleside (or Rydal) to Bowness and
Windermere, by Brathay Bridge, Puli Bay, High
Wray, and the west side of Windermere, and across
the Ferry.
(d)	Ambleside (Rydal or Grasmere) to Kirkstone
Pass, and returning by Troutbeck village and Low-
wood ; or by Troutbeck upper bridge, Cook’s House,
Troutbeck lower bridge, and Lowwood.
(<?) Ambleside (Rydal or Grasmere) by Kirkstone
Pass to Ullswater.
(/) Ambleside (or Rydal) by Brathay Bridge, Pull
Bay, Esthwaite Water, and the Ferry to Bowness and
Windermere.
N.B. The points requiring notice on the above roads
are refered to in Section 1, pages 16 to 18.
(y) Ambleside, (or Rydal) by Brathay Bridge
and Puli Bay, to Hawkshead or Coniston, by the
D 252	Cabbiage Roads : The Brathay. [Sect. 2.
east side of the Oxenfell. For Coniston, this was the old
main-road, ascending the hill from the bottom of Pull
Bay. There is nothing special in it until you reach the
descent into Coniston, but this is very beautiful, and
should be seen if possible. Coniston is described in
Section 3. If a return to Ambleside is wished, it may
be made by the new Yewdale road; see next route.
For Havvkshead, the road, instead of following the
Coniston road up the hill from Pull Bay, continues pa-
rallel with ti e latter for some distance, and then takes
the right-hand turning, the left continuing to High
Wray and the Ferry. Blelham Tarn lies between the
two roads. For Hawkshead and Hawkskead Hall see
Section 3.
(Ji) Ambleside, (Rtdal) to Coniston, by the
new road, passing Clappersgate, Skelwith Bridge, the
west side of the Oxenfell and Yewdale.
Several matters require notice on this road.
Skelwith Bridge and Fall.—After passing the
hamlet of Clappersgate, the road skirts the base of
Loughrigg Fell, passing Brathay Church on the left.
It is difficult to understand how this structure can ever
have excited admiration. Its striking site on a wooded
knoll across the stream, which is here spanned by a
pretty foot-bridge, only aggravates its architectural
shortcomings. The stream is the Brathay, forming the
channel by which the waters of both Langdales are car-
ried into Winandermere. When one has learnt to dis-
tinguish it from the Rothay by name, their respective
courses are soon mapped in the mind, the Rothay drain-
ing the Grasmere and Rydal valleys on the other side
of Loughrigg, and joining the Brathay just before the
latter enters Winandermere. The rocky bed of the
Brathay is most picturesque, and the valley up to Skel-
with Bridge full of effective points. A quarter of a
mile short of the bridge the road for Great Langdale
ascends a rising ground on the right. For Coniston, asPart 2.] Carriage Roads : Skelwith Force.
53
well as for Little Langdale, you turn left, and cross the
bridge, where there is a small hamlet with schools and
an inn. A few minutes’ pause should be allowed for
the view from this point, both up and down.
After crossing the bridge, the road commences a
series of curves up the hill on the right. On its first
ascent, a stone stepstile will be seen in the wall on the
right, which leads without difficulty through the wood
to Skelwith Force. The latter should on no account be
omitted. The height of the fall is trifling, but its rock-
setting, and still more the view of the Langdale Pikes
seen over the fall, framed in the two crags between
which the water makes its leap, are quite perfect. If
they have a fault, it is that of looking as if every
feature in the scene had been composed specifically to
make a picture. It may be noticed, with a view to
subsequent walks, that a rough, but very pretty foot-
path continues above the fall to the margin of Elter-
water tarn, from which the Skelwith stream descends.
The path then turns up to the left, and joins another
footpath running parallel with the valley, which passes
two farms and then descends to the Little Langdale
road at Colwith Bridge.
For Coniston, return to the main road, which about
a mile on divides, the right-hand branch descending by
steep zig-zags to Colwith Bridge, while the left con-
tinues under the Oxenfell, and crosses a low pass into a
glen running down to Yewdale (a). The features of
this glen are very pleasing, although on a miniature
scale. At its bottom, where the road and valley both
turn to the right under a crag of Tilberthwaite Fell, a
pretty stream will be observed crossing the road from
a wooded dell on the left. At this point, it is somewhat
difficult to choose between the two approaches to Con-
fa^ The new road from the summit of this pass to Yewdale
farm is not yet finished (1864). The remaining portion is com-
plete.54
Carriage Roads: Coniston.
[Sect. 2.
iston ; but on the whole, for a first view of the lake,
the following is recommended. Quit the main road
just after the stream last noticed has crossed it, and
follow a track which continues in the previous direction,
the main road, as above noticed, turning to the right.
This track passes a small round clump of trees on a
green, and then continues nearly in a straight line,
ascending with the open ground of the Oxenfell on its
left, and a fence on its right. It thus reaches a neck
of land, from the top of which you have a remarkably
good view of Coniston Lake; much the best of the
views looking down it. This road is marked on the
map, and there is no difficulty in it, taking care not to
take any turn on the left, which would lead up on the
Oxenfell. The descent to Coniston is also extremely
pretty. On reaching the coach road at the bottom,
the hotel and village are reached by turning to the
right, along the margin of the lake.
Should it not be wished to follow the road with the
view of Coniston just mentioned, the main road will of
course be continued, at least as far as Yew dale farm,
distinguishable by its avenue of clipped yews. Here
a pleasant field-path should be taken, keeping down
the centre of the valley, and rejoining the road about a
mile from Coniston. The Yewdale crags are full of
pictures.
N.B. If it is wished to reach Yewdale and Coniston
by Tilberthwaite, take the footpath to Colwith Fall
mentioned in the next-described road (i). After seeing
the fall, return to this footpath, and follow it to some
farms, where a road commences which rounds the hill
into Tilberthwaite, and there joins the road to Coniston
from Blea Tarn and the head of Little Langdale.
(?) Ambleside (or Rydal) by Skelwith Bridge, Col-
with Bridge, Little Langdale, and the Wrynose pass to
the Dtjddon valley, or cross by Hard Knot to Esez>ale,
Strands, and Wabtwater.Part 2.] Carriage Hoads : Colwith Force.	55
This road is the same as the Coniston road last
described, and marked (A), as far as Skelwith Bridge.
Here, after seeing the fall (page 53), continue by the
footpath there mentioned to Colwith Bridge. There
is little difficulty in finding the path, and the walk
above Skelwith Fall, and the descent on Colwith Bridge,
are very pretty. On the other side of Colwith Bridge,
about a quarter of a mile above it, is the
Colwith Waterfall.—The usual way to see this is
to call at the guide’s cottage across the bridge. Here
you procure a key for the path which runs on that side
of the stream, and are carried to a corner, from which,
however, the main features of the fall are concealed.
In lieu of this, in dry weather, take a footpath over a
stile just short of the bridge, ascending steeply through
a wood. At the top of this ascent, and while still in
the wood, a level grass track turns off on the right
from the path; following which for a short distance,
another track turns off* from it, also on the right,
descending through the wood again towards the stream.
This track soon becomes lost, but by bearing to the
left you make your way through the copse with little
difficulty, and come out on some rocks above the stream,
from which there is an excellent view of the fall. The
latter forms two shoots, and has a good deal of merit.
From the fall, return to and cross the bridge, and
then, at the cottages above mentioned, take the left-
hand turn up the valley. The new road on the right
leads to the powder mills at Elterwater. About half-
way up the valley, Langdale tarn is passed :—between
Colwith Bridge and this there is a small inn. Another
road from Elterwater joins you on the right at the tarn.
Of the latter, Mr. Payn says that it is the only lake in
the district he is ashamed of. Its features are certainly
rather homely from the road; but it may be greatly
improved by taking a cart-road through a gate, almost
opposite the road from Elterwater just mentioned, and56 Carriage Roads: Walker's Church. [See. 2.
following it to the foot of the tarn. The latter is
really rather effective from this point. Moreover, there
is another inducement to this digression, should time
in any way allow of it. By following the cart-track a
little farther, you come to the main stream of the valley,
across which is carried the quaintest and most pic-
turesque of mountain bridges. The architect must
have flourished in the year one ;—perhaps in the period
of the “alluviatile drift.” We have never seen this
structure sketched or noticed, but it is worth a ten-
mile walk ; and the scene around is as charming as
possible too.
Returning to the road, which skirts the slopes of
Ling Moor, the tourist must be careful as he approaches
the head of the valley not to take the turn 011 the right,
up an ascent. The latter leads to Great Langdale,
threading the hollow between Ling Moor and the
cliffed front of the Pike of Please, and passing the fine
pool of Blea Tarn. For Wrynose, keep straight on,
past Fell-foot farm. Above this the road is seen slant-
ing up the neck on the left of the Pike of Please to the
Wrynose pass, and there is no difficulty either in the
ascent, or the descent to Wrynose Bottom on the other
side. On the summit, the three “lake counties” meet
in one point; a fact duly commemorated by a recently-
erected stone there.
On emerging from this bottom, the road for the
Duddon turns left, descending with the stream, and
will be followed according to the destination wished.
At Newfield, just beyond Seathvvaite Church, there is a
small but comfortable little inn: and here you are on
the Pedestrian Routes Nos. 28 and 70, which see, 28
leading to Wastdale and 70 to Coniston. Seathvvaite
was Robert Walker’s living ; that is to say, he did
subsist upon the endowment, and helped to keep other
people alive too, as is well known. It would have been
most men’s starvation. The stepping-stones in thePart 2.] Carriage Roads : The Duddon, Hard Knot. 57
Duddon at Seathwaite hamlet should be seen at all
events. If it is wished to continue down the Duddon,
there are two small inns at Ulpha, and nothing further
to Broughton. At the latter place, it would be in-
justice in one who has shared its hospitality not to
speak with satisfaction of the quaint but pleasant “ Old
King’s Head.” At Broughton you are on the coast rail-
way. The best road to the town, although the longest, is
the one which follows the river, crossing it just below
Seathwaite hamlet, and then re-crossing beyond Ulpha,
after which it runs on a sort of open terrace, with
excellent views of the valley. The Duddon is hardly
first-class in any part, although the rock-and-water
detail above Newfield is very interesting. Cockley
Beck bridge, where the road quits Wrynose Bottom
and makes the turn to the left above mentioned, is a
favourite subject with artists.
For Eskdale, the road diverges at Cockley Beck
bridge. Instead of descending the valley to the left,
you continue in the previous direction up the Hard
Knot pass, the zig-zags of which ascend the ridge in
front. There is no difficulty either in the ascent or
descent. About half-way down was a Roman camp,
called Hardknot. Castle.
The Upper Eskdale has some very striking features.
At Bout, just below which the road passes, there is a
small inn, and two others lower down—the Woolpack
and the King of Prussia. At Bout you are on the
pedestrian route between Coniston and Wastwater,
Nos. 28 and 70, which see. Stanley Ghyll (see Route
70) is also on the opposite side of the valley. Birker
Force is another fall, on the same side as Stanley
Ghyll, but higher up. It is hardly worth going out
of the way for. From the King of Prussia there is a
good car-road to Strands and Wastwater.
(Jc) Ambleside (or Rydal) by Loughrigg Tarn to
Grasmere and return; or, to Great Langdale, Dungeon58
Carriage Roads : Elterwater.
[Sect. 2.
Ghyll, and the Langdale Pikes, and return by Gras-
mere. The road is the same as those to Coniston and
the Little Langdale (both above described and marked
h and i) until you have nearly reached Skelwith Bridge.
Here the Great Langdale road ascends a rising ground
on the right, and soon afterwards passes Loughrigg
Tarn. The latter is not well seen from the road, and it
is worth taking a turn by some cottages at the near
end of the tarn, and following a cart-road which skirts
its opposite side for some distance. If intending to
proceed to Grasmere, without going to Great Langdale,
this track on the right side of the tarn had better be
pursued until it rejoins the road by some cottages be-
low High Close. It may be added that the best of all
the views of the tarn is from some rocks on Loughrigg
lying back to the right of it, and described above,
page 41.
If it is wished to proceed to Great Langdale, return
to the main road from the tarn. A short distance on,
the Grasmere road turns off on the right, joining the
road from Great Langdale to Grasmere, afterwards
described, just beyond High Close (see page 48). For
Great Langdale you take the left-hand road, descending
the hill. The marshy lake seen on the left in this
descent is Elterwater. It receives the waters of both
the Langdale valleys, and discharges them again by
Skelwith Fall just below. At the foot of the descent,
the road passes through Elter water village, where there
are powder-mills. A corner may be cut off by keeping
up on the right of the houses, across the common ; but
it is worth following the road to look up the rocky
channel of the stream from the bridge in the centre of
the village. There is a small inn here. The road over
the bridge leads to Coniston, with a branch to Little
Langdale ; and a pretty path through the wood on the
opposite side leads to some quarries under Ling Moor,
from which there are good views up the valley. ForPart 2.-j Carriage Roads : Great Lang dale. 59
Great Langdale the road keeps straight on, having the
stream (and powder-mills) on its left for some distance,
and then crossing the valley to Langdale village on its
opposite side, where there is also an inn. The pretty
church will be noticed, and the view from the church-
yard is very striking. There is a small peal of bells,
the musical chime of which, echoed from Ling Moor
and its mountain neighbours, will be long remembered
by the tourist who has come over the hill on a Sunday
afternoon from High Close or Grasmere. The church
possesses a really capital choir, who intone in plain
song, with an occasional inflexion. The psalms are
also recited on a harmonised single note, the effect of
which, with these rich mountain voices, is very pleas-
ing*
A short distance beyond the village, on turning a
corner by some slate quarries, you get a first-class view
of “ The Pikes.” The road after this keeps up on the
lower slopes of Blake Fell for some distance, and then
dips into the flat of the valley, turning sharp to the
left through a gate, just after you have passed a farm
on the right-hand side. This turn is to be carefully
taken, as the road which continues from this point
along the right side of the valley on the high ground
is very rough and loses the view. Following the road
in the bottom, you reach Mackreth’s new Dungeon
Ghyll Hotel, about a mile on.
For the Ghyll and the ascent of the Pikes from this
point, see Pedestrian Route No. 16 ; the Route No. 19
to Easdale Tarn also commences here. By continuing
along the valley, you come, in another mile, to the old
Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, where a road on the left leads
by Blea Tarn into Little Langdale, and thence to
Coniston. The last-mentioned hotel is also the nearest
point for the Stake, Scawfell Pike, and other Pedestrian
Routes Nos. 22 to 26.
To return by Grasmere, the route by Easdale Tarn60 Carriage Boads : Little Langdale. [Sec. 2.
above referred to (No. 19) may be taken, which is stiff
climbing, and requires care. The car-road returns to
Langdale village, and then, instead of re-crossing the
valley to Elterwater, keeps on along its left side,
ascending under the crags of Silverhow to High Close.
Just beyond this it is joined by the road from Lough-
rigg Tarn, and descends to Grasmere village. But if
Bed Bank has not been seen, it will be better, instead
of making this descent, to quit the car-road before it
begins, and turn down a rough track between walls on
the right. This leads you out on Bed Bank (page 47),
where a track runs on the right side of Grasmere and
Bydal Lakes, and thence on the right side of the valley
under Loughrigg, to Ambleside. The reverse of this
portion of the walk is described pages 38 to 40.
(J) Ambleside by Skelwith and Colwith Bridges,
Little Langdale and Blea Tarn to Great Langdale and
Grasmere, and return by Grasmere.
The tourist who has only a limited time at his dis-
posal will find this a highly satisfactory walk, as it
exhausts the principal features of the Brathay and both
the Langdale valleys, comprising also Grasmere and
Bydal in the return. It should be added that Blea
Tarn is far better seen this way than by ascending to
it from Great Langdale.
In the round here recommended, the road, as far as
the Little Langdale Tarn, is the same as that above
described and marked (i) ; see pages 54 to 56, with the
references. After passing some farms on the right
beyond Langdale Tarn, the road to be taken for this
walk is the one ascending the hill on the right; the
road which continues up the valley leading by Fell
Foot farm to Wrynose pass, which is seen ascending
the valley in front of you. It is worth following this
latter road however for a short distance, so as to get a
remarkably fine view of the Langdale Pikes over the
rising ground on your right.Part 2.] Carriage Roads : Blea Tarn.	61
Returning to the Blea Tarn road, you ascend for
some time, and then have the tarn below you on your
right, overhung on the opposite side by the precipitous
cliffs of the Pike of Please. It is a wild and highly
effective scene : a sharp conical spur of Ling Moor
which rises behind the tarn gives great character to it.
After skirting the tarn, the road makes a rough
descent to the Great Langdale valley, commanding its
whole upper extent. This is one of the finest vale-
heads in the district: the bare porphyry peaks of the
two Langdale Pikes shoot up from it with a grandeur
rivalling that of far loftier scenes. It is called Mickle-
den. The red ochre of the adjoining mountains is
used for marking sheep, and called Langdale red.
At the foot of the descent the road turns to the
right, and a short distance off it is the Old Dungeon
Ghyll Hotel; above which a grass track leads to the
Ghyll, bending back to the left when it reaches the
stream descending from the latter. For the purposes
of the present walk, this is of course the shortest way
of reaching the Ghyll; and the Langdale Pikes may
also be ascended from the latter. See Route 16,
where this ascent is described, as well as the Ghyll
itself.
For the other pedestrian routes diverging from
Mickleden, see above, page 59. The New Dungeon
Ghyll Hotel is a mile lower down the valley, and the
return from thence to Grasmere is described on page
60.
(m) Ambleside to Keswick, by Rydal, Grasmere,
and Wythburn. As far as Grasmere, this road has
been described on page 43, with the exception of the
mile and a quarter between Ambleside and Rydal.
This, however, does not require any special notice.
The stranger will enquire for the residence honoured
by one distinguished name, that of Miss Martineau.
It is concealed from the road by another villa, but the62
Caret age Roads : Dunmail 'Raise.
[Sect. 2.
carriage-drive to it is just outside the town on the left,
by the side of a meeting-house. The large house in
the park further on is Rydal Hall (see page 42). It
should be added, that if there is no other opportunity
of taking the walk to Grasmere on the left side of the
valley, it should be substituted for this portion of the
coach-road. See its description above, pages 38 to
40.
Above Grasmere, the road crosses Dunmail Raise by
a sharp ascent, passing over a singularly depressed ridge
connecting the Helvellyn chain on the right with Steel
Fell on the left. Dunmail, the last King of Cumber-
land, was slain in battle on the summit of this pass,
and the cairn which marks his place of sepulture may
still be seen, a little on the right of the road. The
ascent of Helvellyn is best made from this point; see
Pedestrian Route, No. 12. On top of the pass, Skid-
daw comes into sight in the distance ; and a short way
down on the other side there is a remarkably good
view of Thirlmere: in fact, the only good one obtain-
able from the coach-road. This lake is of such a high
order of beauty when properly seen, that it is a strong
temptation to take the rough track from the top of the
pass, mentioned in the Pedestrian Route, No. 21, and
continue by it as there indicated, until the coach-road
is rejoined some miles on at the lower end of Thirlmere.
And in coming from Keswick to Grasmere or Amble-
side there can be no doubt of this being the preferable
route. But in the walk to Keswick, it would involve
the loss of a highly characteristic view—the first open-
ing of the Vale of St. John’s, below Wythburn. And,
if time and patience permit, the best of the Thirlmere
views may be obtained as follows:	Continue by the
coach-road to some cottages at the lower end of Thirl-
mere, although out of sight of it, which will be found
marked on the map as “ Bridge End.” Just beyond
these, a lane leads out of the coach-road to a farm-housePart 2.] Carriage Soars : Wythburn, TUrhnere. 63
on the left; following which, and crossing the stream
flowing from Thirlmere towards the Yale of St John’s,
you make a short ascent through a field, and come to
some other farms. Here, turning to the left, 3mu are
in a cart-track which runs by the side of the stream for
some distance, and then reaches the secluded bay in
which the lake terminates. At this point, take the
right-hand of two roads, which leads away from the
lake through a wood. Following this, you come out
on a neck of land at the foot of Raven Crag, command-
ing the very beautiful view of Thirlmere noticed in
Route No 50.
Returning to Dunmail Raise, there is nothing requir-
ing notice short of Wythburn, unless it he an inscription
to a deceased horse. This souvenir will be seen under
some trees on the left of the road. The slopes of Hel-
vellyn rise steeply on the right, commencing at Dun-
mail Raise, and continuing to the lower extremity of
the Yale of St. John’s. But the summit itself is out
of sight, and the masses of the mountain are too
immediately above you to allow of its doing itself any
justice. At Wythburn there is a very diminutive
church, and a small but comfortable inn. The Keswick
ascent of Helvellyn is made from this point. See Route
46; the two torrents described in which, and forming
the pedestrians’ guide in the stiff climb with which
this ascent commences, are readily seen on quitting
the hamlet.
Below Wythburn, the road strikes the margin of
Thirlmere and skirts it for some distance. The lower
part of the lake is out of sight, but the three bridges
which cross it to Armboth House are seen, and form a
highly picturesque object. Nearly opposite these, the
road quits the lake, making a sharp ascent over a tongue
of land, and dipping again into a lateral valley parallel
with but out of sight of the lake. In descending into
this valley, you get the very beautiful view of the Yale64 Carriage Roads: Haven Crag; Keswick. [Sect.2.
of St. John’s above referred to, Saddleback forming a
most effective background to the picture. The rocky
cliff on tlie right, at the entrance of the vale, is Castle
Crag; an enchanted mountain, where the scene of
Scott’s Bridal of Triermain is laid. Those who visit
the spot under favourable conditions find the rugged
rock debris of the summit replaced by the towers and
bastions of a princely castle. On the opposite side,
between the road and Thirlmere, a picturesque wooded
hill will be noticed ; and, where not concealed by this
latter, Raven Crag, at the foot of the lake, is a most
imposing object. The physical geography of these
valleys is also curious, the stream from Thirlmere,
which eventually re-appears at Keswick as the Greta,
making a long previous detour by St. John’s Yale, and
skirting the bases of Saddleback and Skiddaw. The
coach-road crosses this stream by a bridge of striking
beauty. It then quits the valley, taking the direct
line to Keswick, which involves a mile or two of flat
bog, of a somewhat melancholy character. By looking
back, however, you can now see the summit of Helvel-
lyn; and the dullness of this part of the road is soon
compensated by the glorious view from Castlerigg,
including the vale of Keswick and Bassenthwaite, with
one glimpse, on the last descent into the town, of the
matchless Derwentwater.
It should be added, that at the point where the road
strikes the boggy flat just mentioned, crossing from
some crags on the right of the flat to a farm on its
opposite side, there is a tempting footpath continuing
the previous direction of the road, and entered by a
stone step-stile. The tourist may take this path with
advantage, if he does not mind adding to the length of
his walk, and will observe the following direction—
namely, to quit the cart-track into which the path
leads at the point where it is joined on the right by
another road crossing the line of crag from St. John’sPart 2.] Carriage Roads: Ambleside, Windermere. 65
Yale. Here, a footpath on the left must be taken,
which dips to some meadows on that side, and, crossing
them, rejoins the coach-road on the Castlerigg hill.
For Keswick, see Section 5.
{n) From Grasmere to Ambleside :
By Bydal and the coach-road. Described, in
reverse, page 43.
By Red Bank and the right side of the valley.
Described, in reverse, page 38.
By High Close, Loughrigg Tarn, and Brathay.
See page 48, as far as the tarn. From the lower
end of the latter, a lane, by some cottages, leads
into the car-road for Ambleside. The latter is
described, in reverse, on page 52.
By High Close, Great Lang dale (for Dungeon
Ghyll and the Pikes), Elterwater, Loughrigg
Tarn, and Brathay. This road is described, in
reverse, on page 58.
(o') From Grasmere by Skelvvith Bridge, Skelwith
Fold, Pull Bay, High Wray, and the Ferry, to Bow-
ness and Windermere.
The road, as far as Loughrigg Tarn, is the same as
that described on page 48. From the lower end of the
tarn, the track turns to the right, by some cottages,
and rejoins the Ambleside car-road. The latter, how-
ever, is not to be followed for this walk. Just opposite
to you as you join it, a turning leads down to Skelwith
Bridge, for which you must again take the right-hand
turn soon afterwards. Skelwith Fall has been described,
page 53.
After crossing Skelwith Bridge, you follow the lane
indicated on the map, to Skelwith Fold, which is the
name of the cluster of cottages on the rising ground to
your left. The road across the moor from this place,
and descending on Pull Bay, is noticed on page 18, and
the rest of the walk is described, in reverse, on the
same page.
E66	Carriage Boads : The Oxenfell. [Sect. 2.
(y>) From Grasmere by Skelwith Bridge to
Hawkshead, and by the Ferry to Bqwness and
Windermere. Or, return to Grasmere by High Wray
and Pull Bay.
This is a very pretty walk. As far as Skelwith
Bridge it is the same as that just described, and marked
o. From the bridge, you follow the lane on the map
leading to Skelwith Fold, but take the turning on the
right just short of the latter. This ascends under the
picturesque slopes of the Oxenfell for some distance;
then quits them, crosses the coach-road leading from
Ambleside to Coniston, and then descends across an
open moor to the Hawkshead coach-road. The views
on the descent are very pleasing. At the point where
the road turns away from the Oxenfell there is a water-
fall on the right, of no great height or body of water,
but with some classical features. At Hawkshead, the
right side of the lake should be taken, if time serves,
rejoining the road at Claife. The descent to the
Winandermere Ferry is strikingly beautiful; and the
return on the same side of the lake to High Wray and
Pull Bay, if that route be taken, forms one of the most
charming walks in the district. For the return foot-
path from Pull Bay to Skelwith Fold, see page 18.
(y) Grasmere by Skelwith Bridge and the east side
of the Oxenfell to Coniston. See the walk described just
above, and marked (y>), as far as the waterfall under the
Oxenfell there mentioned. For the present walk, instead
of quitting the line of the Oxenfell at this point, follow
the grass-road which continues to ascend at the foot of
the mountain, and you then join the Ambleside and
Coniston coach-road, described page 52. The return
may be made by the Yewdale road. See the next road,
marked r.
(r) Grasmere to Coniston by Elterwater, Colwith
Bridge, and the new road on the wTest side of the Oxen-
fell. Take the walk to the “ Best and be thankful ”Part 2.] Carriage Eoads: Elterwater.	67
seat, described on page 48. A short distance beyond
this, a common is reached on the left, sloping down to
Elterwater Tarn and village, where the powder-mills
are. There are several tracks across this, cutting off
corners of the rough road which leads to the village.
The best is the first you come to, on the left edge of
the common ; not bearing direct for the village, but
descending to the Ambleside and Great Langdale car-
road which you see below you, and which it reaches a
good deal to the left of the houses. The other tracks
are wet and boggy. Following the car-road into the
village, you cross the bridge opposite to the little inn,
and then, shortly afterwards, take the left-hand turn,
which leads to Col with Bridge. The waterfall there is
described, page 55, and the road beyond it, to which
you ascend by some steep curves, on page 53.
(s)	Grasmere to Coniston by Elterwater, Little
Langdale, Tilberthwaite, and Yewdale.
Proceed as in the walk just described and marked
r, as far as Elterwater. Here, after crossing the
bridge, take the right-hand turn, which leads across a
shoulder of Ling Moor, descending into Little Lang-
dale just above the Langdale Tarn. The views of the
Old Man chain on this descent are capital. Crossing
by the bottom of the tarn to the highly picturesque
bridge described on page 56, and then turning to the
left, you round a corner and enter Tilberthwaite,
through which the road descends to Yewdale and
Coniston. Tilberthwaite is a glen of a very high class
of beauty, as yet hardly spoilt by the slate-quarrying.
(t)	Grasmere to Coniston by G-reat Langdale, for
Dungeon Ghyll and the Pikes ; thence by Blea Tarn,
Tilberthwaite, and Yewdale.
Proceed as in the walk marked r, and described on
page 66, as far as the common beyond the “ Best and
be thankful ” seat. Here, instead of crossing the com-
mon to Elterwater village, continue along the upper
e 268 Carriage Roads : Greenburn Beclc. [Sect. 2.
road to Langdale village church, which, with the walk
beyond as far as the old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, are
described on page 59. Just below this hotel, a road 011
the left ascends the hill to Blea Tarn, the margin of
which it skirts ; although, if the tarn itself is the ob-
ject, it is best seen the reverse way, as in the next walk
but one. Above the tarn, the road rises, and then dips
into the Little Langdale valley, which it crosses to its
opposite side, slanting up to the left under Wetherlam,
and then descending into Tilberthwaite, of which Yew-
dale is the continuation.
In making this slant towards Tilberthwaite, a road
is crossed leading up on the right to some copper-mines
on the Greenburn Beck. By following the latter to its
head, and ascending the steep slope of mountain above
it, (which is less difficult than it looks at the distance),
you are on the Old Man chain. Here, turning left,
and keeping along the ridge in a direction due south,
you reach the Old Man summit. Care must be taken
not to dip into the valleys on either side, and also to
avoid getting on the long easterly spur which forms
Wetherlam. This ridge-walk is one of great beauty,
and, on a fine day, makes a desirable variant for Conis-
ton. The descent to the latter is best made by the
poney-road and mines.
(u)	Grasmere, by Elterwater, Little Langdale, and
Wrynose, to the Duedoh and Broughton; or, from
the Duddon by Hard Knot to Eskdale, Strands, and
Wastwater.
As far as Little Langdale Tarn, this road is described
on page 67; and above the tarn, it will be found on
page 56.
(v)	Grasmere by Skelwith Bridge, Col with, Little
Langdale, Blea Tarn, Great Langdale (for Dungeon
Ghyll and the Langdale Pikes), and return.
To the tourist with limited time this route is recom-
mended as comprising all the principal features of thePart 3.] Ped. Routes, Nos. 9, 10: Haweswater. 69
Langdale valleys. As far as Skelwith, see page 65.
Prom thence to Little Langdale Tarn, see page 55;
and for the rest of the road, see pages 60, 61.
(w) Grasmere to Keswick, coach-road. Described
pages 62 to 65.
PART III.
PEDESTRIAN ROUTES CONTINUED.
ROUTE IX.
For Hotels and Inns, see part 1 of this Section and of Section 4.
Ambleside to Mardale and Haweswater, by
Troutbeck, Kentmere, and Nan Bield.—Proceed
by the Windermere road, or by steamer, as far as Low-
wood Hotel. Just beyond this, a carriage-road turns
up the hill on the left, and leads without difficulty to
Troutbeck village, joining the main road of the Trout-
beck valley at a point in the village where there is a
Swiss-looking chalet, with wooden galleries, on the right,
and an Elizabethan ivied farm on the left. Follow this
main road for a few yards, and then take another dip-
ping out of it on the right, by two pollards, and de-
scending to Troutbeck Chapel and Bridge. The latter
is to be crossed, and immediately afterwards the lane
on the left taken, leading by a steep ascent to the back
of The How, from which it turns to the left, and
crosses into Kentmere. From the point where this
lane leaves the Troutbeck road, the route is identical
with No. 2, page 21, to which accordingly refer.
route x.
Hotels and Inns as in No. 9.
Ambleside to Mardale and Haweswater, by
Troutbeck and Sleddale.—Proceed as in No. 9,
e 370 Pedesteian Route, No. 11 : High St. [Sec. 2.
which it will be seen becomes identical with No. 2 from
the lane above Troutbeck Bridge, page 21. From this
point, proceed as in No. 2, until you are past Kentmere
Hall, and reach the point indicated on page 22, as the
divergence of the Sleddale Route (No. 3). Then pro-
ceed as in No. 3, page 25.
EOTJTE XI.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent oe High Steeet eeom Ambleside.—
Proceed as in Route 9, page 69, as far as Troutbeck
village (a). There, instead of taking the road on the
right by the two pollards (page 69), and descending to
Troutbeck Chapel and Bridge, keep on through the
village, parallel with the line of the valley. At some
little distance on, you come to a narrow lane branching
off on the right, while the main road through the vil-
lage continues on the left, and passes rather a gaunt-
looking house immediately afterwards. The lane and
the road enclose between them a triangular patch of
ground attached to the house, with a row of larches
on its upper side. At this point, take the lane on the
right just referred to, and follow it in an uniform direc-
tion, nearly parallel with the valley, and disregarding
all turns on the right dipping to the stream. You
thus reach the coach-road for Patterdale, leading up
from Troutbeck Chapel and Bridge to the left side of
the valley. Opposite to you here, on the other side of
this Patterdale road, is the lane leading to Troutbeck
(a) This ascent is often made, from Ambleside, by following the
Kirkstone road to the top of the pass, and then keeping up by a
wall above the “ Traveller’s Pest,” which leads to the top of the
range of mountains enclosing the upper Troutbeck valley on the
left. But the dip from this to the High Street chain on the oppo-
site side is very serious; and, taking into account the steamer to
Lowvvood and the merits of Troutbeck itself, the route given above
seems certainly preferable.Part 3.] Pedestrian Route, No. 12 : 1lelvellyn.	71
Park farm, noticed in Route 8, page 33, and there
specified as forming the junction of the High Street
ascent from Ambleside. Take this lane, and then pro-
ceed as in Route 8, page 33.
ROUTE XII.
For hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 4.
Ascent oe Heltellyn erom Grasmere («), with
descent to Patterdale.—The coach-road should be
followed as far as the top of Dunmail Raise; see page
62. Just below the summit, the road crosses a ravine
which descends from Helvellyn on the right;—the
ravine has a wall running by it until it reaches the
road, when the wall makes an angle and runs parallel
with the road. Cross this wall by a gate a little below
the summit level on the Keswick side, and climb the
shoulder of mountain then facing you by a cart-road
which will have been for some time previously seen
zigzagging up by the ravine. The latter should be
kept on your right hand throughout.
On reaching the top of the shoulder, a table ground
of bog is reached, with another rocky slope in front,
which, in fact, is the reverse side of the cliff line of the
Helvellyn main chain. Cross the bog in its narrowest
part, and round under the rocky slope to the left, but
gradually raising the level. This eventually brings you
out on the edge of the main chain, which descends in a
series of bold cliffs to Patterdale. The view, both near
and distant, which you open from this point is strikingly
beautiful, and its charm is enhanced by the surprise
with which it breaks on the eye after the monotony of
the previous ascent. At this point the poney-road
from Grasmere is joined, and continues left along the
cliff, making in the first instance a circuit at some little
distance from the edge. Following this track, there is
(a) See note at the end of this Route.72 Ped. Route, No. 12: Striding Edge. [Sec.2.
no difficulty to the summit, which is about two miles
on (a).
The descent into Patterdale, if wished, may be made
either by Striding Edge on the right of the summit, or
by Swirrel Edge on its left. These two edges or ridges
form the two eastern buttresses of the mountain, and can-
not be confounded. For their respective demerits, see the
subsequent route, No. 29. The descent to Striding Edge
is down a broken face of cliff; and, at first sight, there
is something rather appalling in this, as well as in the
sharpness and narrowness of the rock by which it is
connected with the main line of the Striding Edge
buttress. But the difficulty is more in appearance than
fact. Be careful to descend the face of the cliff at the
point (on the right of the summit) immediately above
its junction with the narrow neck just referred to, and
so as to land on that neck. Should the attempt be
made at any other point it would be really dangerous.
If, however, on full consideration, the tourist does not
like the look of this scramble, the Swirrel Edge path
on the left of the summit offers a safe alternative. There
is no difficulty either in the descent to it from the
top of the cliff or in pursuing its course under Cat-
chedecam ; at the foot of which it dips to the boggy
basin enclosed between the two “ edges,” and, crossing
it, rejoins the Striding Edge path on the ridge oppo-
site.
Note.—The ponej^-road above referred to is identi-
cal with Route 17 as far as Grisedale Tarn. From
this, it ascends the shoulder of mountain on the left by
a system of steep zigzags, and continues in the general
line of the Helvellvn cliff to the summit. It has some
advantages, but the ascent given above is, on the
whole, the best for pedestrians.
If wished, the Keswick ascent, via Wythburn, may
(a) No attempt is made to describe the view from the top, for
the reasons given on page 34. See note there.Part 3.] Pedestrian Route, No. 13 : Fairfield. 73
also be taken in lieu of tlie above ; see Route 46. But
it is longer and far steeper.
ROUTE XIII.
For the Grasmere Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent oe Faireield erom Grasmere.—At the
Swan Inn, on the Dunmail Raise road, take the lane
which turns up on the right, and, passing some cot-
tages, strikes the deep ravine which may be seen
running into the heart of the mountain above the
Swan. On reaching this, cross to its opposite side, and
ascend by the green road which keeps up by the stream,
at some height above it, keeping the stream on your
right hand throughout. This road will have been a
marked object from below, ascending between two con-
verging lines of wall. When the walls diverge again,
follow close by the one on the left hand, and, where it
ceases, continue left, towards some low rocks above.
From the top of these bear right, making for the
hump or knob which is the highest point on Fairfield
seen from Grasmere, lying on the left of the ravine by
which you have ascended. From this the summit is
seen at no great distance, and is reached without diffi-
culty. On the Patterdale side of the mountain there
are some fine cliffs and “screes.”
ROUTE XIY.
For Hotels at Grasmere, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent oe Silyerhow erom Grasmere.— Follow
the Redbank road, turning left at the church, until it
reaches the lake. Here, on the left, is a landing-place
for boats, opposite to which are two gates : one form-
ing the approach to a private house, the other leading
into a rough lane. The lower mass of Silverhow is seen
immediately over the private gate.74 Pedestrian Route, No. 14: Silverhow. [Sect. 2.
Take the gate into the lane, which leads across a
field into a plantation. Here, taking the left-hand
turning, and following a wall which runs at the foot of,
and parallel with, the general line of the Silverhow
ridge, you reach the Grasmere rifle butts. The shoulder
of mountain above these should be ascended; after
which, turn to the right and then follow the ridge-line
to the summit. For the descent to Langdale from
these rifle butts, with the alternative walk by “the
Wyke,” see above, page 49.
ROUTE XY.
For Hotels at Grasmere, see Part 1 of tliis Section.
Ascent oe Helm Crag- erom Grasmere.—Pro-
ceed as in Route 20, as far as the point on the Easedale
road, mentioned on a subsequent page, where the latter
ascends between two villa houses. Here the rough
road on the left continues to Easedale and High Raise.
For Helm Crag, take the other road, through a gate
on the right, which leads on to the open ground at the
base of the crag. Here the road, which only leads to
some quarries, should be quitted, and the hill ascended
by a grass-path, which will be seen on the left of the
wall running up the crag. O11 reaching the neck from
which Dunmail Raise and the coach-road come into
sight, turn left, and keep gradually mounting along
the steep grass-slope, which forms the “Raise” face of
Helm Crag, until it terminates in rock. Here turn
sharp to the left, after which another turn on the right
brings you on the ridge, by which you then ascend to
the summit without difficulty. This summit is not a
mere cone, as it appears from Grasmere, but a ridge of
some length, and nearly uniform level, strewn from end
to end with masses of shattered rock, which it is diffi-
cult to convince oneself are not the debris of a dis-
mantled mountain fortress. Perhaps some young giantPart 3.] Pedestbian Route, No. 15 : Helm Crag. 75
in the dark ages may have amused himself with playing
at “bricks” here. From below, as is well known, these
strange rocks have suggested various resemblances, and
received names accordingly. The best-known of these
are the “Lion and Lamb,” the “Old Lady at the
Piano,” and the “Astrologer,” or rather the woman
cowering before an astrologer. The latter image is
due to Wordsworth’s genius, but has rather failed to
carry the popular voice with it, although its conception
is not impossible. The “ Lion and Lamb,” on the
other hand, force themselves upon the most superficial
notice. For the pianiste, we have no authority beyond
Mr. Rigg’s coachman.
It should be added, that the stones which compose
these various eiSoAa are two distinct groups, although
they are usually spoken and even written of in works
of authority, as if they were one. On the summit, as
also from Easedale, this fact becomes evident: the
“Lion and Lamb” group is there clearly seen rather to
the south of the centre of the crag ridge, while the
astrologer is at its extreme north. But the same
result may also be obtained from the Dunmail Raise
road by observing these stones as you walk up it. On
the first part of the road, the only set visible is that of
the “Lion and Lamb,” which culminates at the fourth
milestone, near the Lake Hotel. Following the road
up to the first cottage on the right above the “ Travel-
ler’s Rest,” you see both sets, although neither in its
characteristic shape. The lamb is here invisible, and
the lion a round knob with a small tail on the left,
which afterwards disappears ; while the “Astrologer” is
an upright block, with a slender detached rock leaning
against its north side. Continuing above the cottage,
and at a few yards up, this detached rock not un-
naturally shapes itself into the piano-forte player, the
astrologer rock being the piano:—an upright one, of
course, as the unbending morality of the old lady, who76 Ped. Route, No. 16: Dungeon Ghyll. [Sect. 2.
is something like Mrs. Clennam in “ Little Dorrit,” in
all propriety requires.
Finally, on reaching the point on Dunmail Raise
where the wall on the left ceases and the road opens
out on the bare grass-bank of the stream, you have the
“Astrologer” with the suppliant female before him on
his left. Both figures are draped ; and the Astrologer
has his right hand raised under the drapery. We
crave pardon for the frivolities of this digression.
EOUTE XVI.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of tliis Section.
Ascent of the Langdale Pikes feom Geasmeee,
oe Gbeat Langdale, with Dungeon Ghyll en
route.—Proceed as in the walk from Grasmere marked
r, and described on page 66, as far as the common
beyond the “Rest and be thankful ” seat. Here, in-
stead of crossing the common to Elterwater village,
continue along the road under the hill to Langdale
village and church, which, with the road beyond as far
as Mackreth’s New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, are described
on page 59. As you approach this hotel, observe the
features in the chain of the Langdale Pikes above you.
The broad hollow immediately over the hotel, with
some conspicuous waterfalls, is not the one which forms
Dungeon Ghyll, although it should be taken note of
for the purposes of the following ascent: Dungeon
Ghyll lies in the ravine next beyond this, forming the
deep fissure which cleaves the two Pikes down their
centre. From the hotel garden, a path winds for a
short distance up the broad hollow with the waterfalls
first above mentioned, and then turns left in the direc-
tion of the further, or ghyll, ravine. This path is
plainly marked throughout: if not staying at the
hotel, it is reached by some cottages to the left of the
latter.Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 16 : Langdale PiJces. 77
On reaching the bed of the stream which descends
from the ghyll ravine, the path crosses by a stone foot-
bridge, and ascends on the opposite bank. The ghyll
is a short distance on, the access to it being made com-
paratively easy by some steps cut in the rock and a
ladder. The name will be at once understood from the
deep cavernous hollow in the far end of which the tor-
rent makes its plunge, with a natural bridge overhead
formed by two rocks which have probably lain wedged
there since the creation. Wordsworth was addicted
to scrambling across this bridge, which might have
nipped much valuable poetry in the bud.
For the Pikes, return to the stone foot-bridge, and,
crossing it, ascend by a wall which runs up by the side
of the ghyll ravine, keeping the stream at some distance
below you on your left hand. There is here a plainly-
marked grass-road in zigzags. The steep slope you are
ascending terminates on the top in a huge rocky hump,
forming a conspicuous object throughout; and the
road, after first approaching the edge of the bank above
the stream, eventually winds round behind this rock.
This lands you on an upper plateau of boggy ground,
where the track for some time disappears. Keep,
however, to the right-hand edge of this plateau, over-
looking the “waterfall” stream first above mentioned,
and you have then no difficulty in reaching Stickle
Tarn, from which this, waterfall stream descends.
Harrison Stickle, the higher of the two pikes, rises
now immediately above you, on the left of the tarn ;
the fine cliff overhanging the latter is Pavey Ark.
The tarn itself is one of the most impressive in the
district, with the further recommendation of containing
excellent trout.
To ascend Harrison Stickle, it is not necessary to
continue as far as the tarn, unless otherwise wished.
Some way short of the latter, the road lost on reaching
the flat of bog reappears, and, soon afterwards, a foot-78 Ped. Route, No. 17 : Grisedale Pass. [Sect. 2.
track strikes off from this on the left, and winds up
under the pike. It ascends gradually, crossing the
sloping ground which descends from the mountain into
the tarn until the cliffs of the latter are rounded, and
then turning left, and climbing by some steep zigzags
over grass and broken masses of rock until you reach
the foot of the cliff which forms the summit. Skirting
round this to the right, and then following a small
grass gully to the left, the cairn on the summit is soon
reached. The view is central, and has some good
points, but is hardly first-rate. Pike o’ Stickling, the
further and lower of the two summits, is reached with-
out difficulty from Harrison Stickle; and the Stake
pass for Borrowdale may also be easily struck, if wished,
by bearing across the moor in a direction rather to the
right of the unmistakeable “ Great Gable.”
koute xvii.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 4.
Geisedale Pass (a) eeom Geasmeee to Pattee-
dale.—Grisedale Pass lies in the further of the two
ravines which will be seen from Grasmere descending
on the right upon the Dunmail Raise road. The
stream of the nearest is crossed at the Swan Inn, and
forms the guide in ascending Fairfield; see Route 13.
The Grisedale stream is crossed at an ivied house, a
little beyond the fifth milestone. Turn through a gate
into the lane immediately beyond this house, on the
Keswick side. The lane soon emerges by the side of the
stream, at some height above it, and continues to the
foot of a broad grass ridge, which is a conspicuous fea-
ture in the valley, forming the division between its
two streams. Here, the lane becomes a mere moun-
(a) Another and rather shorter path may he taken, keeping on
the side of the valley opposite to Seat Sandal. But the one here
given is the best.Part 3.] Ped. Koute, No. 18 : Sour Milk Qhyll. 79
tain track, which crosses the stream on the left of the
ridge just mentioned, and keeps close by the water-side
—there is another path going up the ridge—until the
stream is again crossed. After this, the path ascends
steeply on the grass slopes of Seat Sandal, the limb of
Helvellyn which forms the left side of the valley, so as
to pass in the rear of some projecting rocks (a). Prom
this point, the road is plainly marked to the top of the
pass, which lies in the left corner under Seat Sandal,
and from which the descent is made without difficulty
to Patterdale. Grisedale Tarn is a fine feature on the
Patterdale side of the pass. At its lower end, the
pony-road to Helvellyn will be seen ascending by steep
zigzags on the left. The names of the tarn and pass
are derived from “ gris,” a wild boar.
ROTJTE XVIII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
From Grasmere ry Sour Milk Ghyll and Ease-
dale Tarn to Great Langdale (b).—The route is
the same as Boute 20, until the bridge of flat stones,
mentioned on a subsequent page, is reached. Cross this,
and a cart-road, somewhat wet and stony, then leads
across the flat of the valley by the stream, keeping it on
the right hand but occasionally separated from you by a
field or two. In one field, the path turns left and then
soon afterwards right again, thus making a right angle
in order to avoid some boggy ground. When the
(a)	The alternative of making a short cut, by keeping under
these rocks on the right and rejoining the road beyond them,
should be noticed only to be rejected.
(b)	The pass between Easedale Tarn and Langdale is difficult
to hit, and the points have therefore been given in some detail
both in this and the following Route, No. 19. In the early part
of the present century, a peasant and his wife were lost in the
snow on their return from Langdale, and the bodies not found
for some weeks.80
Ped. Botjte, No. 18: JEasedale Tarn. [Sect. 2.
stream begins to mount, the path comes close to it, and
Sour Milk Ghyll is soon reached; it has been a con-
spicuous object from the stone foot-bridge onwards.
Above this, the path and stream still ascend steeply
for some distance, and then turn sharp to the left, the
stream still being on your right hand, and continuing
so until Easedale Tarn is reached, from which it issues.
The right side of the tarn is formed by a precipitous
mountain slope; the left by a series of grassy humps.
Into the far end of the tarn, another stream will
be seen descending on the left of a pyramidal rock of
some height, which forms the guide for the present
ascent. Make for this rock accordingly, keeping
along the knolls or grass-humps at some distance
above the tarn and stream, to avoid the boggy ground
near the latter. There is a rough path, which, on
quitting the last knoll, crosses a flat piece of bog, and
then ascends through grass to the side of the stream,
where it disappears. Here the broken wall of rock
immediately above you should be ascended, keeping the
stream as close to you as you can on your right hand,
and disregarding any tracks across it. This course is
to be continued until you come opposite to the py-
ramidal rock above noticed, or perhaps a few yards past
it. Here, turn up the rising ground on your left, at a
right angle to the line of your previous ascent, thus
bringing the pyramid full in your back, and looking
back from time to time to verify the direction. Before
long, a small tarn, Codale, is seen over the left shoulder
of the rock, forming a further point for verification.
By observing this general direction, you arrive without
difficulty at the summit level of the pass, a boggy
channel being on the left as you approach the top, and
the summit itself marked by a small pile of stones on
a rocky ridge on the right. A similar pile is seen on
the bog, a short distance in advance. At this point, the
chain of the Coniston Old Man is also seen immediatelyPart 3.] Ped. Route, No. 18 : Great Langdale. 81
fronting you; of course, on the other side of both the
Langdale valleys, although neither of these are here
visible. Close on your right, is Harrison Stickle, the
highest of the two Langdale Pikes, with the fine cliff
of Pavey Ark running in a straight line to its base,
above Stickle Tarn. This is one of the best near views
of this mountain; in fact, the whole scene before you
is imposing enough to deserve a special niche in the
tourist’s memory.
To descend to the Great Langdale valley, it is
necessary to observe the points before you with some
attention. To the left of Stickle Tarn, in advance of
it, and nearly facing you as you stand on the summit
level, is a deep chasm or hollow, which continues down
into the valley. The latter, as we have said, is out of
sight, but this hollow will serve as a guide to reach it.
Above the hollow, on its left, will be seen a rising
ground of some height, strewn with rock and debris,
and separated from you by a boggy flat with islands of
rock scattered at intervals over its surface. Cross this
bog, making for the nearest end of the rising ground
just mentioned; and, on reaching the latter, descend
by it, keeping it close above you on your left, with
the bog-head of a stream on the other side, until you
come to a low wall which will be presently seen in
advance, running in a transverse direction. On the
other side of this wall, a rough cart-road begins, which
soon afterwards descends by the left of the stream in
the hollow. The road then zigzags down to the stream,
crosses it, and keeps down its right bank for a short dis-
tance. After this, it turns right, diverging in the direc-
tion of the stream which flows from the tarn ; and finally
returns to the bank of the first stream. Crossing this,
you descend to some cottages from which a short lane
takes you into the Great Langdale road. By turning
right at the cottages and keeping down a field, the New
Dungeon Ghy 11 Hotel maybe reached through its garden.82
Ped. Route, No. 19 : Great Langdale. [Sect. 2.
ROUTE XIX.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
From Great Langdale by Easedale Tarh to
Grasmere.—Proceed as in Route 16, page 76, as far
as Mackreth’s New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. There, at
the near end of the short lane leading to the hotel
from the road, observe the points in the side of the
mountain fronting you. It will be seen that its most
marked feature is a broad hollow rather to your left,
with a stream in it forming some noticeable falls.
This stream is not that which forms Dungeon Ghyll,
and which is still more to the left, but is one descend-
ing from Stickle Tarn under Harrison Stickle. It is
referred to in the rest of this route as the “tarn
stream.”
Immediately fronting you is another ravine, less
broad but more deeply channelled than that of the
tarn stream. This second stream forms the guiding-
stream for the present route. On one side of it, a steep
cart-road will be seen ascending; to reach which, follow
the lane up to some cottages above the hotel on the
right; or, if staying at the inn, get to these through
the garden, crossing a brook at the bottom of the
latter. Passing between the cottages, a gate leads you
out on the open slope of the mountain, where a grass-
track will be found eventually leading into the cart-
road previously seen by the “ guiding ” stream. At
first, however, this grass-track bears away rather to
the left, inclining towards the other, or “ tarn” stream.
Follow it in this direction, taking care to keep ascend-
ing, and also to avoid any turns on the left leading
actually to the tarn stream; especially one which leads
down to some sheep-folds by the side of the latter, and
afterwards up to the tarn itself. At some height up,
the track you are following, after rounding a rocky
crag with trees, makes a short bend to the right, zig-Part 3.] Pep. Route, No. 19 : to Grasmere.
83
zagging up behind the crag, where some care is re-
quired to follow it. On reaching the upper level of
the crag, the track still bears to the right, and soon
strikes the “ guiding ” stream ravine, by the side of
which it continues for a distance, and then crosses the
head of the ravine by a natural terrace. The view
down the stream from this point is very striking.
After crossing the stream, the road zigzags up on
the grass-bank opposite, on the top of which there are
some tracks continuing on in a direction parallel with
the Langdale valley, which are of course to be avoided.
The track to be taken is the one which turns left,
ascending parallel with the upper part of the ravine, at
some distance above it. Following this, you come to
a low broken wall, and here the track ceases. On the
other side of the wall, however, you have on your right
a rocky slope of some height. Keep along under this,
just between the rock and the upper basin or bog-head
of the stream, but gradually ascending, so as to come
out eventually nearly on a level with the top of this
slope, on its other side. Here you have in front of
you a boggy tract of no great width, clotted with
small islands of rock, and terminated on the other side
by a chain of low rocky points, gradually ascending on
the left into a low pyramidal peak with a cairn upon it.
Cross this bog, in the direction in which you have been
previously ascending, and which may be ascertained by
looking back and taking a line from the side of the
rocky slope last mentioned. Before long, a pile of
stones is seen on one of the low points in front of you;
making for which, you reach the summit-level, and see
the mountains on the Grasmere side. The ground
soon begins to dip here, a tongue of bog, the feeder of
a stream on the Grasmere side, descending from a short
distance beyond the pile of stones. Follow this down,
keeping it on your right hand, and you soon come in
sight of a tarn (Codale) lying high up in a basin of the
r 284 Ped. Route, No. 19 : Easedale Tarn. [Sect. 2.
mountain opposite. Keep this tarn for your direction,
until you see below you a pyramidal rock rising imme-
diately on its right, and which may now be substituted
for it. On arriving opposite the pyramid, turn right,
at right angles to your previous direction, and keep
down by the stream which flows between you and the
rock, keeping the stream as close as you can on your
left-hand. At some distance down, Easedale Tarn
comes in sight. Follow the stream, still keeping it on
your left, until you reach a small boggy flat at the foot
of the broken face of rock you have been descending,
terminated by a series of grass knolls which continue
to the further end of the tarn. Here a foot-track is
found, leading across the patch of bog, and then wind-
ing among the grass knolls, keeping up on them, and
at some distance from the water’s edge, so as to avoid
the marshy ground between the knolls and the latter.
There is now no difficulty to the foot of the tarn,
taking care not to follow any track on the right which
would lead you too far away from it. At the foot of
the tarn is a small hut, and from this there is a well-
marked path to Grasmere, keeping the stream at no
great distance on its left. About a mile and a quarter
from the tarn, on rounding a shoulder of the hill, Sour
Milk Ghyll is reached on the left. At the bottom of
the steep descent below this, the path forks, the right-
hand branch keeping on under the hill. Take that on
the left, in the direction of the stream, which you
follow, keeping it on your left-hand throughout, until
a picturesque bridge of flat stones is reached, by which
you cross it into the Easedale and Grasmere road.
route xx.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 5.
From Grasmere by Easedale and High Raise
Pass to Rosthwaite in Borrowdale, and Keswice.Part 3.]
Ped. Route, No. 20 : Easedale.
85
—From Grasmere cliurch, take the right-hand lane
round the north end of the churchyard, and soon after
the right again-not that on the left, which passes
the Red Lion. Following this right-hand turn, another
road, leading from the village to the Swan Inn on the
Keswick coach-road, is soon crossed, and you ascend a
low wooded hill in front. After this, some cottages
are passed, and then a bridge, where keep straight on;
the turning on the right goes also into the Keswick
road. Soon afterwards, the path to Easedale Tarn
crosses the stream by a bridge of flat stones on the left.
The road for Easedale, and the present route, continues
past a carriage gate, and across some open fields, until
it turns up between two villa houses. Here it be-
comes a rough bridle-road, descending slightly on the
left in the first instance. The road on the right, through
a gate, leads to Helm Crag; see Route 15, page 74.
About a mile above this, the stream is crossed by
some large stepping-stones, and the path for Borrow-
dale continues up the valley in the direction of the
stream, keeping it on its right hand. At first, a con-
siderable detour is made, to avoid the boggy ground
near the stream. The track then returns to the latter,
and ascends close by it, still keeping it on the right,
until it crosses again to some sheep-folds near the centre
of a broad basin, about one and a half miles up the val-
ley. Continue still by the stream, but keeping it now
on your left-hand, until the further end of this basin is
reached, where the stream forks, and the track becomes
confused with several others. It is better now to dis-
regard all paths, and keep to the line of the stream
only, keeping up by the branch which, as you face it,
makes the left prong of the fork, and keeping this
branch on your left-hand. Some way on, there is
another fork. Here, take the branch which, as you
face it, makes the right prong of this second fork; but
here, as before, keep this branch on your left-hand.
r 386	Ped. Route, No. 20 : High Eaise. [Sect. 2.
This brings you to the summit of the grass ridge which
forms the head of Easedale.
The tourist, however, will now discover that this is
not High Raise. The ridge on which he now stands
overlooks a boggy basin, the head of a stream which
flows transversely to the line of the Easedale valley,
and eventually descends by the valley on the right to
Wythburn and the Keswick road. The real summit-
level of the High Raise Pass is exactly opposite you,
on the ridge which rises on the other side of the basin
just mentioned. It is marked, in the distance, by some
rocky humps, and, on approaching, by one or two piles
of stone on the rocks. The “ High Raise ” itself is
the little peaky point with a cairn on its top, which
rises from the flat line of this opposite ridge, at seme
distance on your right. The pass as above described,,
and not the “High Raise” itself, will of course be the
point made for; assuming, that is, that the tourist has
recovered from the demoralizing effects produced by
his recent disappointment. There is no path, but the
ascent is free from difficulty beyond what might be
felt in climbing up a series of chateaux-roofs composed
of soaking spunge. A small stream descending from
the left corner of the pass will serve as an additional
guide, if required.
On reaching the summit level, you look down into a
valley extending upwards for some mile or two to the
left of the spot on which 3m u stand. Instead, however,
of descending immediately into this, keep up, at first on
the rocks which form the crown of the ridge you are
on, and then across a very wet boggy slope, in a line
diverging slightly left from the ridge. There are guid-
ing stones along the rocks and across the whole of this
boggy tract. On reaching the last guiding-stone, a
small grassy hump projects below you on the left.
This is the top of a precipitous rock, and the path de-
scends on its right side, in the line of a small water-87
Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 21: Harrop Tarn.
course. At the foot of the rock, cross to another grassy
hump, rather on your left; from this, two similar humps
are visible below, by the side of which the path winds
and continues without difficulty for the rest of the
route, keeping the stream on its left throughout. At
the bottom of this descent you are joined by another
valley on the left, which leads to the Stake Pass, be-
tween the Eagle and Bull Crags. At the junction of
this valley there is some very fine rock and water.
Below this point, a bridge over the stream leads to
Stonethwaite hamlet; and it is better, although rather
longer, to cross here, instead of following the rough
road to Rosthwaite on the right bank. After passing
through the hamlet, a field-path will be seen on the
right which cuts off a corner by the church, rejoining
the road just before a smithy, when the main car-road
is reached.
ROUTE XXI.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 5.
Grasmere to Keswick, by Harrop Tarist and
Watendlatii (a).—Follow the coach-road to the top
of Dunmail Raise. Here a cart-road turns off on the
left, which follow, skirting a wall, to the farm at the
foot of Steel Fell. The road then crosses the “ Wyth-
burn beck the inn and church of the same name are
seen on the turnpike road on your right. The lane
then rises to a second farm, where it is to be quitted,
although it continues at the foot of the mountain, to
Thirlmere and Armboth; see above, page 62.
Above this second farm on the left rise two rocky
cliffs; and Harrop Tarn is in the hollow beyond the
second. At the first gate beyond this farm turn up on
the left, following a slightly-marked path, and cross a
(a) The route should be taken this way, not the reverse. The
descent on lakes Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite is singularly
beautiful.88
Ped. Route, No. 21: Watendlath. [Sect. 2.
grass road winding up between the cliffs; then skirt
the base of the second cliff until you join the Wyth-
burn path to the tarn. From the foot of the latter, it
will be seen that its main feeder descends from a grass
ridge connecting the precipice which overhangs the
tarn with a lower rocky height opposite ; the stream
bends right and then left, and then forks, one fork run-
ning up to this lower height of rock. Make for the
point where this fork of the stream rises, disregarding
several well-marked tracks en route. On nearing this
point, however, take a track which leads across the
summit-level of the ridge. Here you have before you,
in the basin on the left, another tarn which forms the
source of the Watendlath stream. In front, is a peat
moor, terminating in a low range of rocky hill, on which
a small cairn may be distinguished. The track here
disappears, but make for a point in this range of hill
somewhat to the left of the cairn ; although it is neces-
sary in crossing to this point to bend for some distance
rather to the right, so as to escape the worst parts of
the bog.
On crossing this second range of hill, Lake Bassen-
thwaite comes in sight: and, between it and Skiddavv,
in the near distance, is a wall ascending in zigzags, to
a pyramidal rocky point, under which the wall curves
to the right. Between you and this point is a table
land of rock and bog, forming the right-hand wall of
the Watendlath valley. Continue in the direction of
the pyramidal point, keeping to the edge of the valley,
but taking care not to dip into it, until you strike the
corner of another wall running up from the bottom.
Follow this for a short distance, when it turns down
i>y a stream. Cross this, and on the other side is a
road descending in zigzags to the secluded homestead
and tarn of Watendlath, from which there is no diffi-
culty to Keswick. After following the open ground of
the Watendlath valley for about one and a half miles,Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 22 : Stake Pass.
89
you enter a wood, and the road then, at some distance
on, nears the edge of the cliff beyond Lodore. From
this edge is an admirable view of Derwentwater and
Lake Bassenthwaite. The point is only a few steps
from the road, and there is a well-trodden path up to
it.
ROUTE XXII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 5.
From Grasmere, or Great Langdale, by the
Stake Pass (a) to Rosthwaite in Borrowdale, or
Keswick.—Proceed as in Route 16 as far as the turn-
ing to the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, page 76. From
this point, follow the road up the valley to the old
hotel of the same name, which is about a mile further
on. Here you ascend by some cottages immediately
on the left of the hotel, and join a rough cart-track
leading to the head of the Great Langdale valley.
This vale-head, it may be useful to observe, forms
three sides of a parallelogram. The right-hand en-
closing line is formed by the Langdale Pikes and their
continuations; the left-hand by Bowfell; and that in
the front by a spur connecting Bowfell with the Glara-
mara range. In the left-hand corner, between Bowfell
and this spur, will be seen a precipitous ravine, known
as Rosset Ghyll, and forming the commencement of
the fine Routes, Nos. 23-26 in this Section. In the
right-hand corner, between this spur and the chain of
the Langdale Pikes, descends another stream, less abrupt
than Rosset Ghyll, and showing a seam of white water
down its course. The Stake Pass ascends by this last
stream, quitting the valley at some circular sheep-folds,
which are a conspicuous feature at the upper end of
the flat grass basin which forms the vale-head. The
(a) The pass is most effective taken this way. The head of the
Langdale valley, in ascending, is one of the finest mountain bits
in the district.90 Ped. Route, No. 22 : Stonethivaite. [Sect. 2.
four other routes just noticed diverge from the same
point, turning left from the fold. The Stake turns
right, and at once ascends by the white stream in the
corner, keeping it on its right-hand up to the summit,
and mounting in some tolerably steep zigzags. There
is no difficulty either in the ascent or descent, the pass
being a well-marked bridle-road, practicable even in
mist. On reaching the valley on the Borrowdale side,
the stream by which you have descended is crossed by
a footbridge. From this point, a path runs parallel
with the main stream of the valley, keeping it on its
left hand, until it crosses about two miles down by
another footbridge, slung over a pool of intensely green
clear water.
On emerging from the lateral valley, between Glara-
mara and the Eagle Crag, down which you have been
descending, you come in sight of Stonethwaite Church
and hamlet. Here, a footpath should be taken, across
some meadows; it turns off through a step-stile in the
wall, just above a stone barn or cow-shed. The junction
of the streams descending from the Stake and from the
High Raise valley (Route 20) is a fine effect of rock
and water. Beyond Stonethwaite hamlet, take the
short cut through the fields noticed at the end of
Route 20, page 87.
ROUTE XXIII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 5.
Grasmere to Keswick, by Great Lakodale,
top oe Esk “House,” and Borrowdale.—Proceed
as in Route 22 as far as the circular sheep-folds at the
head of the Great Langdale valley, page 89. From
this point you turn left, and cross the stream, on the
other side of which is a fairly-marked path, winding
among grass knolls. This leads to the foot of Rosset
Ghyll, the precipitous ravine in the left-hand corner of
the Great Langdale vale-head, described on page 89.91
Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 23 : Bosset Ghyll.
The Rosset Ghyll stream is crossed, and you then keep
up by the stream, keeping it close on your right hand,
and ascending in the hollow of the ravine to its top.
There is a rough track between the cliff and the stream ;
and on emerging from this hollow, over some loose
blocks of stone, you are joined by another and broader
track on the left, which then crosses the bog-head of
the stream. Follow this, and ascend the grass slope in
front; the track is faintly marked over the grass, but
lies parallel with the course of the stream, at some
little distance from it. This grass slope terminates in
a narrow ridge, from the top of which observe the
points in front of you. In the hollow beneath, rather
to your left, lies Angle Tarn, under the cliffs of Bow
Fell and Hanging Knot. Above the tarn, rises a long
grassy slope; not continuous really, although it looks
so from the point where you stand, but consisting of
two ridges, with a rather fatiguing dip between them.
The uppermost of these two ridges joins Hanging Knot
on the left to the rocky hill seen on the right, and the
name of which is Allen Crag; a continuation of Glara-
mara. Above this uppermost ridge is Great End, the
northern base of Scawfell Pike. The latter is out of
sight, lying on the left of Great End, over the point
where it intersects Hanging Knot. Nearly in the
centre of this upper grass ridge is a pile of stones,
which is the point to be made for. There is a fair path
with “guiding stones” all the way, which follow,
dipping first into the Angle Tarn hollow and then into
the hollow between the two grass ridges. From both
these hollows you look down on the right into the val-
ley by which the Stake Pass descends to Borrowdale.
From the second hollow, the path zigzags up on the
right-hand side of the grass slope above it, turning left
near the top to the pile of stones. This is the summit-
level of this pass, and forms the point of divergence of
the Wastdale Route No. 25 and the Ascent oe92
Ped. Route, No. 23 : JEs/c House. [Sect. 2.
Great Gable No. 26, for both of which you continue
straight on ; also of the Ascent or Scawfell Pike
No. 24, for which you must turn to the left. The
broad grass 'plateau which is thus the rendezvous of
these routes, as well as of others subsequently given, is
known as the “top of Esk House;” and the “three
hillocks on Esk House,” frequently referred to in the
subsequent pages, are close by the pile of stones on the
right, although only two of the three are seen from that
point. The entire scene is one which cannot fail to fix
itself in the memory. In bad weather, it is desolate
enough ;—one of the last places a man would choose
for a night’s bivouac;—and the writer has accordingly
endeavoured to describe the various tracks over it with
as much accuracy as possible. But on a bright day
there is not a more enjoyable spot in Europe. On one
side, you have Sprinkling Tarn with the fine cliff of
Great Gable towering above it; on the other, Bowfell
and the two Langdale Pikes. Behind, the mountain
chambers of Scawfell open up, the ridge on which you
are serving as a corridor to give access to them ; while
in front, almost at your feet, lies the fairy-land of Bor-
rowdale, terminated by the blue Derwentwater and
Skiddaw, with the Scotch mountains in the distance.
To descend to Borrowdale, turn to the right from
the pile of stones just mentioned, making for the base
of “ Allen Crag,” which here is a low mass of broken
rock and debris, but as you descend, forms a cliff-line
of considerable height. Crossing the rightmost of the
“ three hillocks ” descend below it, keeping round by
the Allen Crag debris, not getting on the rocks, but
keeping on the grass as close as you can at the foot of
them (a). By this course, you wind round the crag,
descending, not very rapidly, first in the direction of
(a) The directions here given are purposely much in detail: a
few minutes’ attention to them will save pretty well an hour of
rough and tedious descent.Part 3.] Ped. Eoute, No. 23 : StocTcley Bridge.
93
Sprinkling Tarn, and then in a direction still more to
the right, keeping the crag-line close on your right
throughout. At some little distance down, a point is
reached where you are crossed by some large slanting
rocks, the lower one of which becomes cone-shaped
as you descend below it. Between you and these
rocks is a small rill of water, but which immediately
below breaks into a deeply-grooved channel, slanting in
the direction of some very noticeable sheets of bare
rock in the centre of the valley you are descending.
Keep on the right of the cone-rock, then descend by
the right bank of the stream for a few yards, and then
return to the main line of the Allen Crag cliff, keep-
ing as before on the grass, close at the foot of the
masses of the crag, but without getting upon them.
Continue thus descending, and hugging the right side
of the valley, until you reach a point opposite to, or a
little beyond the broad central sheets of rock above
noticed, and from which you look down to Stockley
Bridge, where the valley you are descending joins Bor-
rowdale. The point is further marked by four rock
ledges, like pulpit stairs, the two upper pointing to
Great End, and the two lower across the valley, with a
rushy patch separating them from the main cliff. Just
below these steppes will be seen the head of another
stream, which after a few yards flows in a deeply-cleft
rocky channel. Here quit the line of the Allen Crag
cliff, and keep down by the stream, keeping it close on
your right hand throughout, until you descend to the
last of a succession of grass knolls forming the bank of
the stream, immediately below which are some aban-
doned mining works. Below the works, there is a
well-marked path to the opposite side of the valley,
which follow and then descend by it, past a sheepfold,
to Stockley Bridge, from which there is no difficulty
to Keswick. Borrowdale and the lake are described in
Section 5.94
Ped. Route, No. 24 : Scawfell Pike. [Sect. 2.
ROUTE XXIY.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Sections 5 and 6.
Grasmere, by Great Langdale, to Scawfell
Pike, with descent to Wastdale or Borrowdale
(for Keswick).—This ascent is the same as that in
Route 23, as far as the pile of stones on the summit-
level of Esk House, mentioned on page 92 as forming
the point of divergence for the present route. Here,
for the convenience of reference, cross over, as mentioned
on page 92, to the rightmost of the “ three hillocks on
Esk House,” described in Route 23, and lying just
under the crag on the right.
On reaching this hillock, refer to Route 47 (the
ascent of Scawfell Pike from Keswick), where the same
point is noticed as forming the junction of the present
ascent, with a reference to this page. Pause here for
a few minutes to observe the points in front as directed
in Route 47, and then continue the ascent to the sum-
mit as there given.
If it is wished to descend from the summit to Borrow-
dale (or Keswick), return to this hillock, and then pro-
ceed as directed in Route 23, page 92, from that point.
If wished to descend to Wastdale, proceed from the
summit as directed in Route 47.
route xxy.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 6.
From Grasmere and Great Langdale, by the
top of Esk House and Sty Head, to Wastdale.
—The pass is the same as that described in Route 23,
as far as the pile of stones on the summit-level, adjoin-
ing the “three hillocks on Esk House,” and noticed on
page 91 as forming the point of divergence of the
present route.
From this point, instead of crossing to the rightmost
hillock, and keeping round on the right by the AllenPart 3.] Ped. Roete, No. 25 : Sprinkling Tarn. 95
Crag debris, as described in Route 23 for Borrowdale
and Keswick, descend to the stream which flows from
the hillocks, and runs in the hollow between Great
Gable (the northern base of the Scawfell range) on the
left, and the chain of hills in which Sprinkling Tarn
lies on the right. Above this hollow, and of course on
the other side of Sty Head Pass, rises the bold cliff of
Great Gable, which serves as a further direction. The
path soon becomes w7ell marked, and follows the stream,
at first over rock, then over a boggy slope, and then
by the side of a deep rocky ravine, in which it now
flows. In this descent, the stream is kept on your
right hand throughout and at no great distance, until
a point is reached where it changes its previous direc-
tion between Great End and the Sprinkling Tarn
chain, and bends to the right, descending the valley
which runs to Borrowdale under Allen Crag, and by
which the Keswick descent is made from the “ three
hillocks.” Here quit the stream, and cross the boggy
slope in front of you, still in the direction of Great
Gable. The path is faintly marked here, but on reach-
ing the edge of the slope you see Sprinkling Tarn be-
low you. Descend to this, skirting its left side, until
you reach a stream flowing from it, which is crossed
just as it leaves the tarn. From this point the path is
plainly marked by the stream for some distance, the
latter now flowing in a precipitous rocky ravine, and
the path keeping at first on its right bank, and then
crossing over to its left bank. A small heap of stones
is laid on a rock to mark this crossing. At some dis-
tance down, the stream bears away to the right, flowing
into Sty Head Tarn, which here comes in sight. The
path keeps straight on, first skirting close under the
crags of Great End, and then crossing a small rushy
patch to some hillocks in the plateau of moor which
forms the Sty Head Pass. It keeps under these hil-
locks, on their right, and then crosses the bog to the96
Ped. Route, No. 26 : Great Gable. [Sect. 2.
main track of the pass. Joining this, and turning to
the left, you ascend a low grass ridge and are at the
summit-level of the pass, looking over into Wastdale.
From this point, the route is the same as Route 55
subsequently described. But, in fact, there is no diffi-
culty in the descent to Wastdale to require notice.
For the chorography of Wastdale and the Ritson’s,
see Part 1 of Section 6.
ROUTE XXYI.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent of Great Gable from Grasmere or
Great Langdale.—The route is the same as No. 25
as far as the point where you join the main track of
the Sty Head Pass from Borrowdale to Wastdale ; see
page 95.
At this point, instead of turning to the left, which
would bring you to the summit-level of the pass, keep
down to the right, as if for Borrowdale, until you are
quite past Sty Head Tarn, and have reached the first
(a) lateral stream which descends on your left into the
stream issuing from the tarn. It will be seen that this
“ lateral stream ” descends in a gully between two main
masses of mountain. These are Great Gable and Green
Gable. Green Gable, as you face the stream, is on the
right of the latter, and Great Gable is on the left:—a
square-topped mass of lofty crags descending on to the
summit-level of the Sty Head Pass.
Cross over the rising ground to this lateral stream in
the gully just described, and follow it up, keeping it
first on your left hand, until you reach some broken
(a) In descending upon the Sty Head Pass, a green track may
possibly have been noticed, not dipping to Sty Head Tarn, as the
road does, and as is here recommended, but keeping up at some
height above the tarn, under the Great Gable cliffs, and eventually
crossing the lateral stream above mentioned. This looks as if it
would do better, as it saves the descent to the tarn; but, in
reality, it will be found longer and much rougher.Part 3.] Ped. PtOUTE, No. 26 : Great Gable.
97
rock, and then on your right. At some height up, the
stream ceases, hut is succeeded by a grass hollow,
broken into mounds by the action of winter rains, and
lying between the rock debris of the two Gables.
Higher up, this also ceases, but there is still tolerable
footing on the Green Gable side; and this continues
almost to the top of the narrow neck which unites the
two mountains, and from which you look over into
Ennerdale. Here a rough path, still on the Borrow-
dale, or Sty Head, side, turns up on the left, winding
under the precipitous crags of Great Gable for some
distance; after which, it turns to the right, and the
summit is then reached without difficulty. The view
from Great Gable is, in some respects, the best in the
district.
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SECTION III.
CONISTON, HAWKSHEAD, AND
BROUGHTON.
PART I.
NAMES OF HOTELS AND OTHER HEADS OF OENERAL
INFORMATION.
Hotels and Inns are :
At Coniston: Waterhead; Crown; and others.
At Hawkshead : Red Lion, and others.
At Broug hton : Old King’s Head; King’s Head.
CONISTON.
The general character of Coniston Lake has been
touched upon in the Introduction, and there is not
much to be said in regard to the village which clusters
round its north corner. It is homely and featureless
enough. Its chief attraction, next to the lake, is the
vicinity of the “ Old Man,” whose cavernous sides,
deeply pierced by copper-mines, immediately overhang
the village. The Old Man is not first-class in mere
height, but entirely so in the picturesque effect of the
lines of crag which it throws out, like the antennae of
an insect, above Church Coniston. From the rising
ground on the east shore of the lake, these are capable
of looking very noble indeed. In fact, the lake as seen
from this point, with the grouping of these bold cliffs
at its head, need not fear comparison with any of its
neighbours. Equally successful is the view from the100
Coniston : The Lake.
[Sect. 3.
Old Man summit, especially towards evening, when the
sea of mountains to the west, wrapped in luminous
haze, or backed by the cobalt and crimson of a Septem-
ber sunset, leave the pen even less chance than the
pencil. The ascent of this mountain is given as the
Pedestrian Route No. 27, page 105.
Other near excursions are as follows:—
The Lake.—A steam gondola plies on Coniston all
the summer, starting from a pier in the grounds of the
excellent Waterhead Hotel. It is of course preferable
to the walk round the lake, which was formerly the
usual mode of seeing it. The ivy-covered farm on the
right, about a mile from the village, is Coniston Ilall,
an ancient seat of the Le Flemings, who are also the
owners of the copper-mines under the Old Man. The
hall is said to have changed hands but once since the
Conquest. The best view down the lake has been men-
tioned above, page 54. If staying at Coniston, it may
be combined with the walk up Yewdale, as presently
mentioned. The view up the lake, grouped with the
Old Man and Mr. Marshall’s beautiful woods, is best
obtained, as already noticed, from the sloping ground
on its east side. It probably culminates in the fields
near “ Coniston Bank.” Coniston Lake and Butter-
mere are competitors for the honour of producing the
finest char in the district.
Hawkshead, (old) Ambleside Road.—A walk
up this should on no account be omitted. From the
Waterhead Hotel the road skirts a pretty bay at the
upper end of the lake, where the inn formerly stood,
and then ascends the hill above, having Mr. Marshall’s
house and grounds on the right. Just beyond these, a
farm-road through a gate on the right leads into a field
with charming views of the lake and Old Man. The
descent is extremely beautiful, having Mr. Marshall’s
plantations as the foreground, backed bjr the precipitous
masses of the bare mountain. Probably this descentPart 1.]
Coniston: near Walks.
101
constitutes the prettiest and most effective approach to
any of the lakes.
GI-risedale.—A secluded and interesting valley thus
named lies among the fells which divide Coniston Lake
from Esthwaite and Winandermere. The road to it
quits the road on the east bank of the lake a short dis-
tance beyond Tent Lodge. Be careful not to take the
track on the left, striking immediately up the fell, but
one on the right, which continues the previous direc-
tion, nearly parallel with the lake, for some distance.
It then crosses the high ground of the moor, and de-
scends by a pretty wooded dingle to Grisedale. From
the latter there is a car-road to Hawkshead.
Yewdale.—The Yewdale crags form the lower base
of the Wetherlam section of the Old Man, and are full
of pictures:—perhaps the most artistically-coloured
rock scenery in the district. The road, as will be seen
by the map, crosses the bridge by the church. It then
turns off on the right from that leading to the station,
and soon reaches the wooded banks of the Yewdale
beck. From the Waterhead Hotel there is a shorter
cut to the same point, keeping by the stream all the
way. About a mile on, a stone step-stile on the right
leads into a pleasant footpath, joining the road again
in front of Yewdale Farm, which will be at once recog-
nized by its clipped avenue. If out for a walk only, it
is worth turning left here, and following the road for
some distance up Tilberthwaite, the valley which de-
scends into Yewdale on the left of the beautiful crag
overhanging the farm, and continues to Little Lang-
dale. Every step of this walk is charming, and hardly,
as yet, disfigured by the extensive slate-quarrying car-
ried on in the valley.
To vary the return to Coniston, come back to Yew-
dale farm, and follow the road for some distance, past
another farm-house, until both road and valley make a
sudden bend to the left. Here, on the right, just short
a 3102
Hawkshead: Esthvmite Water.
£S©ct* 3*
of a pretty stream which descends through a dingle on
that side, you have the patch of open green with the
circular clump of trees mentioned on page 54. Crossing
this green, and following the track which will he seen
leading in the same direction, you return to Coniston
as mentioned on the page just referred to, obtaining an
admirable view down the lake on the way.
Tiie Copper-mines.—See the ascent of the Old
Man, Pedestrian Route No. 27.
HAWKSHEAD.
The school-home of Wordsworth’s young life (a),
and a constant theme of grateful recollection in his
poetry, would deserve a visit on these grounds only.
But Hawkshead, small as it is, possesses attractive fea-
tures of its own. Esthwaite Water, at the head of
which the town is built, has an unambitious pleasant-
ness about it which is felt as a relief after scenes extort-
ing more forcible admiration. Its very seclusion and
absence of size or striking effects, and the Kent or
Surrey-like character of the hills which enclose it, are
an agreeable contrast to the wildness of more moun-
tainous parts. Both sides of the lake offer a pleasing
walk ; but the views on the right-hand bank, as you go
from Hawkshead, are the best. A spur of sloping green
meadow projects into the lake on this side, from which
Fairfield and its neighbours look extremely imposing.
Wordsworth’s well-known skating scene is laid on
Esthwaite. At the upper end of the lake is a floating
island with trees upon it, considerably larger than that
on Derwentwater, and with the additional merit of ex-
hibiting itself en 'permanence.
On the road to Coniston, at the fork of the Amble-
side coach-road, the old gateway of Hawkshead Hall
(a) He was educated at tlie Hawkshead Grammar School;
founded in 1585, under the shadow of St. Michael’s Church, by
Archbishop Sandys.Part 2.] Carriage Roads : Windermere, Ambleside. 103
will be noticed. The hall was a dependance of Furness
Abbey, and formed a sort of “ clergy college ” for
serving St. Michael’s Church. It is now used as a
farm-house. The beautiful descent to Coniston has
already been described; see page 100.
Amongst the other attractions of Hawkshead, the
comfort and moderate charges of the “Red Lion”
should not be passed over.
PART II.
LAST OF COACH, CAE, AND OTHEE EOADS, NOT GIVEN IN THE
FOLLOWING PEDESTEIAN EOUTES.
(ci) Coniston, by Hawkshead or the Ferry, to Win-
dermere. After passing through Hawkshead, keep on
the right bank of Esthwaite Water, rejoining the road
at Claif. The descent upon the Ferry is worth a day’s
walk by itself. For Windermere, see Section 1.
(b)	Coniston, by Hawkshead and the west shore of
Windermere, to Wray Castle, Brathay Bridge, and
Ambleside. The same as the last road (a), as far as
the Ferry, after which it is described on page 18.
For Ambleside, see Section 2.
(c)	Hawkshead, by Pull Bay and Brathay Bridge,
to Ambleside.
(d)	Coniston, by the old coach-road on the east of
the Oxenfell, to Pull Bay, Brathay Bridge, and Amble-
side.
(e)	Coniston to Ambleside, by Yewdale and the
new road to Skelwith Bridge and Brathay. This road,
with Skelwith Fall, is described, in reverse, pages 52
to 51.104 Carriage Roads : Grasmere, Broughton. [See. 3.
(/) Hawkshead to Grasmere, by the east side of
the Oxenfell, Skelwith Fold, Skelwith Bridge, and High
Close. Described, in reverse, page 66.
(y)	Coniston to Grasmere, by the east side of the
Oxenfell, Skelwith, and High Close. This road joins
the one marked f above, at the waterfall described on
page 66.
(Ji) Coniston to Grasmere, by Yewdale, the west
side of the Oxenfell, Colwith Bridge, Elterwater, and
High Close. Described, in reverse, pages 66, 67.
For Colwith Fall see page 55.
(z)	Coniston to Grasmere, by Yewdale, Tilber-
thwaite, Little Langdale Tarn, and Elterwater.
Described, in reverse, page 67.
(h) Coniston to Grasmere, by Yewdale, Tilber-
thwaite, Little Langdale Tarn, Blea Tarn, and Great
Langdale. Described, in reverse, pages 67, 68. For
Dungeon Ghyll and the Langdale Pikes see page 76.
(l)	Coniston to Broughton, Furness Abbey, and
Ulverston. Railway.
(m)	Coniston to Broughton. Coach road.
(n)	Broughton, by Ulpha, The Duddon, and
Wry nose to Little Langdale; and thence by Elter-
water Village to Grasmere. Described, in reverse,
page 68, and see references there. Both in this and the
next road (o) it is desirable to go by Ulpha, so as to
see the lower Duddon, instead of taking the shorter
road which turns out of that to Coniston. For Ulpha,
you follow the Bootle Road for some distance, and then,
instead of descending to the Duddon Bridge, take the
turning on the right, up an ascent. For some miles
after this, the road is carried on a terrace at a consider-
able height above the valley, and affording some very
pleasing views of its scenery. The Duddon is not
first-class, at least in its lower portion; but it has too
much merit to be missed, and will quite compensate for
the two or three miles thus added to the day’s walk.Part 2.] Carriage Roads : Strands, Black Combe. 105
(o)	Broughton, by Ulpha, the Duddon and Wry-
nose to Little Langdale; and thence by Colwitk and
Skelwith Bridges to Ambleside. Described, in reserve,
pages 54 to 57. See the references there.
(p)	Broughton (or Coniston), byUlpha and Birker
Fell toEskdale,and thence to Strands and Wastwater.
There is nothing requiring special notice in this road,
although it is interesting throughout. For Eskdale
and Stanley Ghyll, see Pedestrian Route No. 28. For
Wastwater and Wastdale Head, see Section 6.
(q)	Ascent of Black Combe from Broughton.
Black Combe is the Righi of the district:—a mountain
of no height or special feature, but placed at the happy
distance from the more distinguished ranges which
gives them their best effects of grouping and colour.
There is absolutely no choice of ascents, from the easi-
ness of all. The main road to Bootle, crossing the
Duddon Bridge, and then turning left, and striking the
lower slopes of the mountain, will probably be found
the best to start by.
PART III.
PEDESTRIAN routes continued.
ROUTE XXVII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent oe the Old Man erom Coniston (a).—
From Coniston Church cross the bridge fronting it,
and then take the right-hand turning, leading towards
the arch under the railway. Do not, however, follow
it to this arch, but take another turning on the right,
(a) The ascent here given is that by the poney-road. It is
believed that it will be found the most interesting as well as the
easiest.106
Ped. Route, No. 27: Old Man.
[Sec. 3.
by the “Sun Inn.” This leads through a farm-yard
into a field-path, crossing a small lateral stream by a
footbridge. You then join a road which ascends steeply
towards the copper-mines in the heart of the mountain,
having the rocky stream flowing from them on your
right. About two-thirds of a mile up, this stream is
crossed by a stone bridge, and you then join the main
road to the mining works.
On reaching there, the summit of the Old Man lies
on your left, just above two sets of slate quarries, one
on a higher lever than the other : a well-marked road
is also seen ascending to the lower quarry. Follow
this, and at the entrance of the quarry take a path,
apparently a mere foot-track, which turns off from this
road, on the left of, and above, the first workmen’s
sheds. The road straight on leads only to other por-
tions of the works. The foot-track just taken ascends
by some steep zigzags to the upper part of the quarry.
On leaving this, a road on your left leads up to the
higher-level quarries seen from the mines, joined a few
yards on by another which slants back to it. Take
neither of these, but keep straight on, although the
track in that direction appears less promising. A short
distance beyond this, you round a corner, and open the
beautiful mountain tarn called Low Water. From this
point, the road ascends, in a general direction to the
left, by a series of zigzags, passing a third set of quar-
ries, and ultimately striking the ridge in the left upper
corner of the basin in which the tarn lies. It then
turns sharp to the right, and follows the cliff-line to
the summit. The view sea-ward, and over the Cum-
berland mountains, is one of the best in the district.
See page 4. Snowdon can be seen from the Old Man.
The descent may be varied by following the ridge-
line southward, over Dow Crag, and descending on the
summit-level of the Walna Scar Pass, Route 28. A
still more interesting, although longer, variant, is toPart 3.3 Ped. Route, No. 27: Greeriburn Beck. 107
follow the ridge which runs northward from the sum-
mit, keeping the basin in which Seatliwaite Tarn lies
on your left, and descending by the slopes of the “ Grey
Friars,” as the northern extremity of the ridge is called,
upon the Wry nose Pass. Here you join the rough
road from the Duddon, which takes you down to Fell
Foot Farm, at the head of the Little Langdale valley.
A short distance beyond this, a road turns off on the
right, crossing the stream of the Langdale valley, and
leading by Tilberthwaite and Yewdale back to Coniston.
A still shorter descent into this Tilberthwaite road
may be made by the Greenburn Beck valley, passing
the copper-mines there. The head of this valley is
rounded after you pass the point from which the
Wetherlam spur of the Old Man strikes off from the
main chain. The scramble down into this vale-head
looks unpromising, as you round the neck of land above
it; but there is no real difficulty, beyond the bogs.
The mining huts are seen from this neck, and there is
a cart-road from them into the Langdale valley, inter-
secting that which leads over the shoulder of the
Wetherlam lower slopes into Tilberthwaite.
ROUTE XXVIII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 6.
From Coniston, ey Walna Scar, the Duddon,
Stanley Giiyll in Eskdale, and Burnmoor, to
Wastdale Head. — Leave Conistou Church as in
Route 27, page 105 ; but instead of turning to the
right by the Sun Inn, follow the curve of the road up
the hill, under the railway arch. After passing through
the latter, the road on the left leads to the station:
take the one fronting you, by the stream, and follow it
up, keeping the stream on your left-hand. After as-
cending for some distance, you reach the head of tho
wooded dingle in which the stream has been hitherto108 Ped. Route, No. 28: Walna Scar. [Sect. 3.
flowing, and the latter then becomes a mere rill by the
side of the road. Keep it on your left-hand for a short
distance further, until you come to a gate in the wall
immediately fronting you. Do not go through this,
but cross the stream in front of it, and turn left, up a
slight ascent; and then, almost immediately afterwards,
turn right, into a lane between hedges. This termi-
nates at a point where there is a stone barn on the
left; but the track continues through the field in front
of you, open to the field on the right side, and with a
wall on its left. At the end of this field, the wall you
have thus been following is crossed by another, a gate
in which leads out on to an open flat of moor, lying at
the base of the Old Man, the cairn on which is seen a
little in advance on your right. From this point to
the summit of the pass a good deal of care is required.
The general clue to be followed is that the main chain
is not crossed until you have skirted under (1) the Old
Man ; (2) the hollow beyond it, in which Goats’ Water
lies ; and (3) under a lofty knoll, the southern ex-
tremity of Doe Crag, which will be seen as you advance,
rising on the left of the Goats’ Water hollow. But,
even so, it is difficult not to get confused with the
quarrymen’s tracks, which are numerous and perplexing.
A little attention to the following will save time and
trouble in the end.
On going through the gate last mentioned, you
have, on each hand, a road running by the side of the
wall in which the gate is, while another crosses the
moor in front of you, slightly ascending. Follow this,
which for some distance keeps parallel with the lake.
It is soon crossed by another track at right angles,
which of course will not be taken ; but just beyond this,
the road you are upon itself forks. Here take the
right-hand branch, which inclines, slightly ascending,
towards the Old Man ; just before it reaches the craggy
lower slopes of the later, it is again crossed by a foot-Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 28 : Walna Scar.
109
path running up towards the right-hand end of the
mountain, and which is also to be disregarded. On
reaching the foot of the Old Man crags, the road enters
a kind of valley, lying between these crags on the right,
and a chain of hillocks on the left. Just as this valley
is entered, a road zigzagging up the rising ground on
the right is to be avoided. The track for Walna Scar
keeps along the valley, nearly on a flat; and, on
emerging from it, continues, with hardly any change
of level or direction, and well marked throughout, until
it has completely passed under the craggy masses of
the Old Man. It then threads the eye of two rather
noticeable rocks, a kind of defile in miniature, and
ascends for some distance, crossing two or three water-
courses, until you reach the bed of a torrent, larger than
those previously crossed, and much shattered by the
action of the water. Here the road forks, the best-
looking track keeping up on the near side of the torrent.
Do not, however, take this, which leads to some quar-
ries in the Old Man, but cross the torrent, on the other
side of which the road becomes well-marked again. At
some distance on, you reach the Torver Beck, as the
stream is called which carries off the main waters of
the Goats’ Tarn hollow above mentioned, and into
which you have now rounded. Keep up by the side of
the beck until a bridge is reached, which cross, dis-
regarding a track which ascends on the near side of
the stream, but following the latter for some distance
on its opposite side. The road then turns away from
the Goats’ Tarn hollow, and ascends in the direction of
the rocky knoll above referred to as forming the
southern extremity of the “Doe’s Crag” in the upper
chain of the Old Man. Some other, and smaller, quar-
ries are seen at the foot of this knoll; and the road
ascends in zigzags to a point just on the left of these,
and then rounds under the knoll, the pass being on the
far side of the latter. At some distance on, a track110 Ped. Route, No. 28: Seathwaite. [Sect. s.
leading to some further quarries seen above will of
course be disregarded. Soon after this, the road forks
again ; and here the left-hand turn is to be taken,
which brings you without difficulty to the narrow neck,
or col, forming the summit-level of the pass, and from
which you look over into the Duddon valley.
From this col, the road descends at first by a steep
leftward slant towards some quarries on the Duddon
side of the mountain. Do not, however, follow it to
these, but, just before reaching them, take the road
which turns sharp to the right, descending to a gate in
the wall below you. From this gate, the road leads
down without difficulty to the first house in the valley ;
a cottage by some trees, with a white farm below it,
both seen from the gate. After passing this cottage,
the road crosses the low shoulder of a hill, passes close
underneath another farm, and then winds round the
foot of a picturesque crag into the Seathwaite valley,
where it is joined by the Wrynose road from Little
Langdale. There is no difficulty to Seathwaite Church,
see page 56. Just beyond the latter, the road makes a
bend to the right, and here there is a small but com-
fortable inn; the only place of entertainment in the
upper valley of the Duddon, which the Seathwaite val-
ley has now joined.
After quitting the inn, it is desirable to notice the
points, the object of the next succeeding portion of the
route being to cross the fells between the Duddon and
Esk valleys so as to cut off the serious angle involved
in descending the former valley to Ulpha (a). A short
distance beyond the inn is a gabled villa residence, with
(a) If it is wished to go to Strands and Lower Wastdale, Ulpha
is the point to be made for; and from thence a rough car-road
leads to the King of Prussia Inn in Eskdale, and thence to Strands.
But for Stanley Ghyll and Wastdale Head the route here given
effects a great saving. For the rest of the Duddon valley, see
page 57; also Section 6.Part 3,] Ped. Route, No. 28 : The Duddon.
Ill
iron gates ; and from this there is no house until you
reach Seathwaite hamlet, about three-quarters of a mile
on. At this point the Duddon has to be crossed, and
the mountain struck on its opposite side. Observe the
cluster of cottages composing the hamlet, and you will
see that they lie mainly on your right, the only build-
ing opposite being a barn. In front of the cottages is
a single tree, standing in the road ; and looking over
the cottages to the mountain side above them, you see,
a little to the right of this tree, a clump of firs, not far
below the summit of the ridge. This is the point to
be made for, and it is well to fix it carefully, as there
are several quarry and other roads leading up on to the
fell. To reach this clump, take a turning on the right,
just beyond the tree in the road, on the left of a pic-
turesque outbuilding with a recessed doorway under
projecting eaves. This turn leads down to some step-
ping-stones in the Duddon, which deserve a pilgrimage
for their own sake;—glorious stones, primaeval, arche-
typal, the thoroughfare and highway of races whose
very existence has dropped out of history. A path
from the stones leads up to a white cottage on the
opposite bank of the stream, in the rear of which you
strike a road ascending by a succession of pretty curves
among the broken masses of rock and wood which form
the side of the mountain above. This road leads up
without difficulty to the clump of firs previously ob-
served, and adjoining which you now see a stone shed.
At one point in the ascent, just after you have passed
through a gate with a small copse on the left, be care-
ful to take the right-hand turning;—not one which
leads into a field.
After passing the fir clump and shed, the road goes
through a gate, and then winds for some little distance
between some rocky humps until another gate is reached,
with a small stream, crossed by a foot-bridge of two
stones, just beyond it. The road here becomes very112
Ped. Route, No. 28: EsJcdale.
[Sect. 3.
faintly marked ; but on looking across the plateau of
moor on which you now are, you see a wall on the top
of the ridge-line above, with a gate in it nearly fronting
you. Just on the right of the gate, the wall will be
seen to make a steep angle upwards, over a patch of
rock, so that the point is well marked. This gate is
to be made for, and, with some care, a winding track
over the moor may be found leading up to it: at any
rate, there is no difficulty in getting there. On reach-
ing this point, and going through the gate, you are on
the edge of another, and upper, plateau of moor, which
occupies the summit of the ridge. There is still some-
thing of a track, which follow, slightly ascending, and
bearing at first to the right, in the direction of some
curiously-shaped rocks on a rising ground at some dis-
tance from you on that side. This direction, however,
is soon altered, and the track then crosses the moor in
a straight line. The direction here may be kept by
looking back to the Walna Scar road on the other side
of the Duddon, which should be kept bearing due
behind you : and it is not long before the summit-
level is crossed, and you look over to the Eskdale
side.
Here again observe the bearings. Immediately in
front is a boggy slope, with some low rocks close by on
the right. At some distance down, to the left of these
rocks, is a craggy hill of some height; and to the left
of that, and still lower down, another similar hill, with
a pile of stones upon it. The latter is the point to be
made for. There is a track for some distance, keeping
up on the rising ground on the left, with a stream
below it on the right, flowing in a boggy hollow.
After descending for some time, the stream and track
bear away to the right, and must be quitted. The
rocky hill with the pile of stones is, however, still in
sight, and on the left of it is now seen another, and
lower, rocky height. Cross the moor to these twoPart 3.] Ped. Route, No. 28 : Stanley Ghyll, 113
rocks, and pass between them. On emerging from
them you see a farm (Birkertliwaite), immediately be-
low you, from which a cart-track leads to another
farm, a good deal to the right of the former, called Low
Ground. Both these farms are marked in the pocket
map, and there is no difficulty in identifying them, or
in reaching the one last named, from which there is a
good road down to the bridge over the Esk, about one
and a half miles below. The Stanley Ghyll waterfall
lies in the dingle on your right as you descend to the
bridge ; and a guide for it will be found in a cottage
near the bridge ; or, failing that, at Dalegarth Hall,
the farm-house on your left just before you make the
last turning to the bridge. It will be at once seen
that this involves the necessity of retracing your steps
up the hill for some distance ; but there is no alterna-
tive except trespassing to the fall, which is easily
reached on the descent. But this the tourist will of
course not think of doing. The fall is one of the most
beautiful in the district, and should be seen in any
event. There is another fall, Birker Force, on the same
side of the valley as Stanley Ghyll, and at no great
distance from it. But the pedestrian may omit this
without serious loss. For Eskdale generally, see page
57 ; also Section 6.
For Wastdale Head, after crossing the Esk Bridge,
a short lane leads up to the main road of the valley,
where you see a school-house just in front of you.
Turn to the right here, which brings you to four cross
roads, with a direction-post. Taking the road for
Wastdale Head, you soon come to the “ Masons’ Arms,”
a small inn in the cluster of houses known as Bout. A
few yards beyond this, take a road leading through a
gate on the right, just beyond some cottages, and
immediately before the road you have been following
crosses a bridge over a rocky stream. The road through
the gate ascends by the side of this stream, keeping it
ii114 Ped. Route, No. 28; Burnmoor Tarn. [Sect. 3.
on its left; and a farm-liouse is soon reached on the
rising ground above. Soon after passing this farm,
the road goes through a gate on to the open moor.
There is no difficulty in following it, keeping the stream
still on your left at no great distance, until you reach
a low rising ground about three-quarters of a mile
from the farm, and with some large blocks of stone
lying on it, between you and the stream. Here the
road becomes a bare foot-track in the grass ; but, look-
ing on, you see it well-marked over a low grass shoulder
at no great distance in front. After crossing this, it
becomes lost again ; but keep parallel with the stream,
or making a slight detour to the right to avoid the
bogs, until you reach a wooden foot-bridge. Crossing
this, you keep close to the stream for a few yards, and
then rise the bank on your left. The path is very in-
distinct here ; but keep slightly diverging from the
stream, in the direction of the “ Pillarone of the
mountains on the other side of Wastdale which here
comes in sight, and is easily distinguished by its rising
into a rounded summit at its left extremity, from which
it undulates down to a gap on the right, above which
Kirk Fell rises.
Following this direction, you soon come in sight of
Burnmoor Tarn, the right-hand margin of which the
road skirts. After quitting the tarn, it then rises
slightly, first bending leftwards towards the north end
of a grass ridge overlooking the tarn on the east, and
which forms the reverse side of the Wastwater “ Screes.”
The road then bends to the right; and here it is a
mere foot-track in the grass, which continues until the
summit-level of the moor is reached, at no great dis-
tance on. From this point, the track is again perfectly
well-marked, inclining at first to the left, and then de-
scending gradually to a corner from which you look
over into Wastdale. Here, Great Gable comes into
sight on the right of Kirk Fell above mentioned, easilyPart 3.] Ped. Route, No. 28 : Wastdale Read. 115
distinguishable by the lofty cairn on its summit. But,
in fact, the bold calotte and cliffed sides of the moun-
tain are unmistakeable enough without this. There is
hardly a nobler view of Upper Wastdale than from
this point.
The cluster of houses in which William Batson’s inn
lies is at the foot of Kirk Fell, just where the valley
forks, the right-hand branch leading up to the Sty
Head Pass between Great Gable and the Scawfell
range, and that on the left to the foot of the Pillar
and the Black Sail Pass for Ennerdale and Buttermere.
The Burnmoor road, after descending between the
Screes and Scawfell, or rather Lingmell its western
base, goes through a gate on the left and crosses the
valley. Instead, however, of following it here, con-
tinue along a track which runs on the open ground at
the foot of Lingmell. After pursuing this for some
distance, you reach a gap in the wall of the inclosed
fields on your left, from which there is a cart-road
crossing these fields in the direction of Wm. Bitson’s,
and then descending to some rushy broken ground in
the flat of the valley, and traversing it. The track is
rather indistinct here in parts, but a small common is
soon entered by a gate, from which there is a lane lead-
ing to William Bitson’s without difficulty. John Bit-
son’s is higher up. See part 1 of Section 6.'SECTION IY.
ULLSWATER (PATTERDALE) AND
HAWESWATER.
PART I.
NAMES OP HOTELS AND OTHER HEADS OP GENERAL
INPORMATION.
Hotels and Inns are:
At Patterdale Village : Patterdale Hotel.
On Ullswater : Ullswater Hotel.
There are also Inns at How Town, on the east bank
of the Lake, and Poolet Bridge, at its foot.
At Haweswater: Dun Bull, Mardale Green.
ULLSWATER.
The general character of this lake has been sketched
in the Introduction, page 1. As there noticed, its
special features depend upon an up view. The tourist
who has only looked down it from the Hotel grounds,
has seen a sparkling mirror of silver set in mountains,
but he has not seen the noble lake itself. Even from
the first ascent on the Grisedale road, which gives a
still better down-view, the picture before you is not
first-rate, which Ullswater unquestionably is.
Eeally to bring out its features, the visitor must
follow the Keswick road at least for two-thirds of the
way to the hamlet of Dockwray, and then diverge on
the left into the upper slopes of Gowbarrow Park, over-
looking the head of the lake and Patterdale. It will
ii 3118
Ullswatee : LaJce Views.
[Sect 4.
probably be felt that this is the most finished view of
Ullswater, as such. Its grouping with the Helvellyn
range on the right is seen to most advantage from
Hallsteads house, or still better, from the broad river-
like reach in front of it. One has a wholesome dread
of exaggeration, but it is really difficult to recall any-
thing in Europe much nobler than these two views of
the lake-head. They are of a severe order, no doubt,
even on a bright day. But this is not the result of
mere ruggedness, as in Wastwater and elsewhere.
Bather, it is the expression of a highly intellectual
type of beauty, if one may refine so far, depending for
its effect not on the presence of riant features, but on
a grouping and outline at once bold, varied, and sym-
metrical.
It should be added that Ullswater divides itself into
three distinct reaches; and in this, as well as in their
relative position and character, it does resemble Lu-
cerne. The lowest reach, from Pooley Bridge to Hall-
steads, is the tamest. The second terminates opposite
Glencoin Beck; while the third, which is far loftier
and bolder than the other two, lies between that point
and the head of the lake. A few small islands occur in
this last reach, hut they are not of sufficient size to
form a distinct element in the view. While, on the
other hand, the absence of islands can hardly be said
to be a defect here.
During the height of the season, the sternness of
this upper bay relaxes, dotted as it then is with numer-
ous small craft conveying the daily excursion traffic
from Ambleside and Windermere to the foot of Ara
Force. Excursionism becomes almost picturesque when
it skims, bright with colours and musical with song,
over the reflected mountain summits and round the
jutting headlands of the blue lake. Then, as the sun
dips, the reflections change into shadows ; the steamer,
which has descended to Pooley Bridge meanwhile, andPart 1.]
119
Patterdale : The Village.
is now on its return, sweeps up to the miniature pier,
forcing its dark hull and tall funnel, perhaps not with-
out some picturesque effect, upon the landscape; the
cars and waggonettes in the distance creep like a pro-
cession of laden ants up the steep pitch of the Kirkstone
Pass; and the lake is left in the deepening twilight,
songless and laughterless. For there is little enough
to disturb it in the quiet village, from which we have
been too long detaining the reader.
PATTERDALE.
The dale which descends from Kirkstone Pass to
Ullswater, and the single village which occupies it,
have, in this instance, the same name. “ Patterdale ”
is derived from St. Patrick, who performed baptisms
here from a spring still seen by the roadside. The vil-
lage is a cluster of some ten or twenty houses, grouped
round the upper hotel and church, at some distance
from the lake. Until recently, this hotel was the only
one; and as one’s primary concern is with the eating
and sleeping question, Patterdale, in the tourist’s
vocabulary, came as a term almost to supersede Ulls-
water. It is more convenient, however, to separate
them. The new Ullswater Hotel stands in a beautiful
situation on the west shore of the lake, about a mile
below the village. Both hotels are excellent; that at
Patterdale being nearer to some portions of the moun-
tain work, while its rival has the advantage of the lake
and steam-boat. There must be ample occupation for
both.
Among the near excursions and points of interest
may be mentioned the following :—
Excursion up and down the Lake :—In addition
to the numerous wherries belonging to the hotels and
other owners, a steamer plies on the lake daily through
the season. The trip should on no account be omitted,
as Ullswater is nowhere better seen than from its own120	Patteedale : The Church.	[Sect. 4.
surface. Its general features have been already des-
cribed, and the names of the mountains and other
points of interest on the banks will be easily made out
from the maps. The bold line of crags on the right,
known successively as Birk Fell and Hallin Fell, and
tracked only by the rough footpath to How Town, will
at once catch the eye. On the opposite side, Patter-
dale Hall lies charmingly nooked into the hollow of
the Lower Grisedale, at the foot of Helvellyn. In
descending the lake, the wooded promontory of Hall-
steads is equally conspicuous, and commands a view
still more beautiful. Both these houses are the pro-
perty of Mr. Marshall, of Leeds ; while other branches
of the family are established on Lakes Coniston and
Derwentwater. Happily, the good taste shown in the
choice of a site in each of these instances has not been
wanting in other respects. Slightly varying the in-
scription composed by the most concentrated genius of
the last century for its most diffuse, one may say of
these gentlemen, that while there is scarcely a beauti-
ful spot in the district which they have not occupied,
they occupy none which they have not improved. The
steamer anchors a little short of Pooley Bridge, where
the Eamont flows out of the lake, joining the Eden
about six miles lower down. There are two inns at
Pooley Bridge, and there is a correspondence by omni-
bus with the railway at Penrith. The conical wooded
hill to the west of the village is called Dunmallet.
Patteedale Church.—Both the church and church-
yard deserve notice. The former is a modern structure
of good design, and harmonises well with the surround-
ing features. The churchyard contains the remains of
Charles Gough, whose melancholy fate on Helvellyn is
well-known from the lines of Scott and Wordsworth;
see Route 29. A former incumbent of Patterdale,
named Mattison, seems to have excelled even Walker
in making a small income work wonders. His stipendPart i.]	Patterdale : The Valley.	121
was £18 a year, on which he brought up four children,
and left £1,000 behind him.
Patterdale (the yalley).—No visitor should
omit to walk up Patterdale at least as far as Brothers’
Water. The five heads into which the dale separates
are a charming feature collectively ; while the eye is
especially attracted towards the deeply-recessed glens
on the right, fringed with copsewood and shadowed by
stately cliffs, which run up into the heart of Fairfield.
On the opposite side, a secluded tarn, Hayeswater, lies
in the left fork of the glen above Hartsup. It is out
of sight from the main valley, but a good peat road
leads to it. For the name Brothers’ Water, see page
17. It is not so generally known as a fact of the im-
portance deserves that Patterdale had once an inde-
pendent sovereign of its own. Being molested by in-
cursions from their Scotch neighbours, the dalesmen
raised to the throne one of their number, named Moun-
sey, by the title of King of Patterdale. We believe,
however, that Patterdale now entirely accepts the
succession “ as by Act of Parliament established.”
The Quarries. — These lie nearly opposite the
Patterdale Hotel, on the lake-road to How Town.
They are reached by crossing the bridge on the Amble-
side road, a short distance above the hotel, the deep
pool on the right of which is a highly picturesque
object. The road then strikes to the foot of the moun-
tain on the further side of the valley, and ascends by a
steep slant to the right forming a marked object from
the Ambleside road, to a depression in the range at the
south end of Place Fell. Here it crosses the ridge,
and descends into Bordale, forming the “inland” ap-
proach to How Town. At the commencement of the
steep slant just noticed, another road turns off on the
left, and leads to the Place Fell quarries, from which
it continues to Blowwick House. Here it becomes a
mere foot-track, running above the lake to Hallin Fell,122
Patteedale ; Near Walks.
[Sect, 4.
and thence to How Town, where it joins the Bordale
road. The view from these Place Fell quarries enjoys
a well-earned reputation.
How Town.—As the steamer down the lake rounds
the bluff headland of Hallin Fell, it opens on the knot
of houses thus called, lying at the lower extremity of
Fusedale. How Town is a kind of miniature watering-
place, with an inn and a few lodgings. The site is
pretty in itself, and the walk to and from it charming.
It is best to follow the path by the margin of the lake
described on the preceding page, and to return by Bor-
dale. The advantage of this is, that in crossing the
ridge from Bordale into Patterdale, you open a very
fine mountain view from the summit, where the Fair-
field and Helvellyn groups break upon the eye with a
suddenness and height which are really imposing. It
will be seen from this point how much Patterdale and
Ullswater gain, as compared with the road from Rydal
to Keswick, by facing the scarped side of these moun-
tains, honeycombed with picturesque glens, instead of
lying under the somewhat monotonous grass slopes of
their reverse front. There is no very striking feature
in Fusedale, or in its companion glen, Martindale, which,
with the three upper vale-heads into which the latter
separates, drain the mountain chain lying between High
Street and Ullswater. The latter system of glens is
sufficiently seen in making the ascent of High Street
from Patterdale, Route 30. As you rise the steep
slope mentioned in that route as forming the left wall
of Hayes water, Bannerdale and Rampsgill, the two
easternmost heads of Martindale, lie on the other side
of the ridge, immediately below you. The third head
is Bordale, already mentioned.
Gbisedale.—See the Helvellyn ascent, Route 29.
Grisedale also forms the commencement of the interest-
ing pass to Grasmere of the same name, Route 31.
But it is a delightful near walk in itself, even if neitherPart lj
Patterdale : Near Walks.
123
of the above routes are followed. The turning to it is
just beyond the church, with a direction-post. If time
and strength serve, the visitor will he well repaid by
ascending the valley as far as the secluded Grisedale
Tarn ; see Route 31.	“ Gris ” was a wild boar ; and
the pass and tarn are no doubt named from the former
habitation of that creature. Who St. Sunday was,
who has given his, or her, name to the bold cliff of
Fairfield which overhangs the dale on the south, we
are really at a loss to say. The name opens as wide a
field for conjecture as that of St. Margaret Moses
among the London city churches.
Glenridding and Gleucoin Beck are the two
next glens on the west shore of the lake, after Grise-
dale. If the tourists’ sympathies lie with the nineteenth
century and “progress,” he should visit Glenridding.
The lead-works there have already transformed the fair
valeinto a mine-proprietor’sparadiseof charred andcrum-
bling cliff, reeking chimneys, and swart hovels, through
which the poisoned stream, the colour of dirty soap-suds,
finds its way to the lake as it best can. Glencoin, on
the other hand, is as secluded as if we were still flourish-
ing under the Heptarchy. It is full of wild beauty, and
a long day may be well and happily spent in exploring it.
Gowbakrow Park and Dockwray.—These have
been already referred to in the general description of
Ullswater, on page 117. The view of the lake from
the entrance of the park, a short distance below Dock-
wray, is probably the most perfect that can be obtained.
The park itself abounds in rambles ; that is to say, the
upper part of it. The lower slopes towards the Penrith
road are hopelessly boggy, although crossed in one part
by a well-marked footpath, which will be seen shortly
beyond Glencoin Beck. There is a pleasant inn at
Dockwray, and a ravine of some beauty winds up above
the hamlet, by the side of the mountain-road to Kes-
wick. See Route 33.124
Hawes water : The Lake.
[Sect. 4.
Ara Force.—To see this waterfall, application must
be made at Lyulph’s Tower, the ivy-matted building
which forms a conspicuous object on the west shore of
the lake, just after the coach-road to Keswick by Dock-
wray and Matterdale begins to mount the rising ground
on the left. The fall lies in the attractive-looking
dingle which descends into the lake from Dockwray,
and is prettily “set,” although there is not usually
much water. The height is about 80 feet. The tower
is a modern hunting-box on an old site. It is named
after L’Ulf, the first baron of Greystoke.
Helyellyh ; High Street. — These ascents are
given as Routes 29 and 30.
HAWESWATER.
We have spoken so frequently, and in such high
terms, of this charming lake, that it may be judicious
to abstain from further encomium, with which, after
all, the visitors’ taste may fail to agree. As noticed
on pages 3 and 24, it should always be seen from the
lower part; probably the view from Measand Becks
will be preferred to that from the extreme end. Mea-
sand is, in fact, the termination of what may be called
the Upper Water, as the meadows of the west shore
project into the lake at this point, dividing it into two
portions. The special charm of this view lies in the
riclily-wooded cliff of Naddle Forest on the east margin
of the lake, backed by the bold headland of Harter Fell,
which from this point produces an effect greatly beyond
its actual height. In fact, every feature in the view
looks as if it had been arranged with the most finished
choice, so as to present a picture equally graceful in
outline and rich in colouring.
From the above slight sketch, it will be readily seen
that the best time of year for a visit to Haweswater,
as to many other parts of the district, is about the
middle, or end, of September, according to the weather,Part 1.]
Haweswater : Mardale.
125
when the fern ancl wood are both changing colour.
There are some pretty falls above Measand.
From Haweswater, an interesting ascent of High
Street may be made (Route 42) ; and the passes to
Ambleside and Windermere, described in Routes 34-41,
may also be combined with a visit to this lake. Even
if it is not wished to pursue any of the above routes,
they should be followed to Mardale Green. In fact,
the walk should be continued, if possible, to Small-
water, the very beautiful tarn on the Nan Bield Pass,
lying half-way up the ascent of the ridge which unites
Harter Fell with High Street. See Route 34.
Mardale is a secluded and most picturesque moun-
tain nook. Its level basin of bright-green meadow sets
off the bold cliffs at its head to the best advantage;
while on the Haweswater side it is separated from the
lower valley by a singular spur projected from the High
Street range, thus completing the isolation of the scene.
There is a small but comfortable inn at Mardale Green.
The church is nearer Haweswater, at the foot of the
projecting neck of land just mentioned. Early writers
on the district gave this retired spot anything but a
good character. “ Above the chapel,” says one, “ all is
hopeless waste and desolation. The little vale con-
tracts into a glen, strewed with the precipitated ruins
of mouldering mountains, and the destruction of per-
petual waterfalls!” It seems almost heartless to inti-
mate that the above description will not be entirely
borne out by fact. Indeed, Miss Martineau’s statistical
genius has discovered that this alleged Diablerets re-
gion sends 3,000 lbs. of butter to Manchester every
week. Considering how largely Manchester contributes
to the pedestrian efforts which “ lard the lean earth ”
of these dales, it may be surmised that some of the
butter comes back again.
The best mode of approaching Haweswater will be
noticed in Part 2 of this Section. The only chance of126 Caeeiage Roads : Kirkstone, Keswick. [Sect. 4.
a boat on the lake is by application to Lord Lonsdale’s
game-keeper, whose house is on the west bank.
PART II.
LIST OF CAEEIAGE, CAE, AND OTHEE EOADS, NOT GIYEN IN
THE FOLLOWING PEDE3TBIAN EOUTES.
(a)	Ullswatee to Windeemeee, by the Kirkstone
Pass and Troutbeck. Described, in reverse, on page
17. The descent into Troutbeck, and the distant views
of Winandermere from various parts of the road, pre-
sent features of marked beauty, and make it desirable,
if it can be so arranged, to take the road this way
rather than the reverse.
(b)	Ullswatee to Ambleside, by the Kirkstone
Pass. The first portion of the road, as far as the
Traveller’s Rest, is identical with (a), and is described
on page 17. From the Traveller’s Rest, the road turns
to the right, under Kirkstone Fell, and descends to
Ambleside with a rapidity which, in reversing the
route, and with a hot sun in your back, makes the pass
a sufficiently steep pull. On this account, as well as
from the beauty of several points of view on the de-
scent to Ambleside, this road also is best walked from
Patterdale, if things can be so shaped. The view over
the head of Winandermere, with Blelham Tarn behind
it, may be particularly specified.
(c)	Ullswatee to Keswick, by Matterdale and
Threlkeld. This is the coach-road. On foot, the far
shorter mountain-road, turning off on the left at Dock-
wray, will of course be taken. See Route 33. The
other pedestrian Route to Keswick is by Gflenridding,
No. 32.Part 2.]
Carriage Roads : Penrith.
127
{cl) Patterdale to Penritii, by steamer to Pooley
Bridge ; or by either bank of Ullswater. For the foot-
track by How Town on the east shore of the lake, see
page 122. From Pooley Bridge there is also a choice
of two roads, but the one on the left bank of the Ea-
mont is the prettiest.
Penrith well deserves a visit, if time can be spared ;
although, as we have noticed above, it is an outsider to
the strictly mountain work. Its notahilia are chiefly
antiquities, which will strike the visitor according to
his taste and temperament. Certainly not the least
picturesque in the number is May borough, a circular
enclosure in a field near Eamont Bridge, about a mile
from Penrith. Its history and objects are as unknown
as Stonehenge. The enclosure is formed by a grass-
bank, the substance of which is found, on examination,
to be composed of loose stones. Near the centre of
the area thus formed is a single block of stone, over
which a tree has planted itself. The loneliness of the
spot, no less than its isolation from all known records,
make it very striking. The other curiosities are King
Arthur’s Table, in a field close to the road at Eamont
Bridge ; the tomb of Owen Ccesarius, in the church-
yard ; Penrith Castle ; the Beacon Hill; “ Long Meg
and her daughters,” (a Druidical monument, about
seven miles from the town) ; Eden Hall; Brougham
Hall and Castle; and Lowther Castle (see e below).
All these are excellently described in Mr. Black’s Guide
Book, which the tourist will not fail to meet with.
(<e) Patterdale to Pooley Bridge as in d, and
thence by Askham and Bampton, to Hawes water.
It will be at once seen by the map that there is a
shorter cut from Pooley Bridge to Haweswater, across
the fells. But Askham and the Lowther valley amply
repay the visitor for the detour he will have to make
in reaching them; and, after all, the time occupied
will not be much longer. Lowther Castle, the seat of128 Carriage Roads : Lowther Castle. [Sect. 4.
the Earls of Lonsdale, is only a short distance from
Askham. The castle itself is a structure in modern
Gothic, by Smirke, and its architecture will afford the
visitor but little satisfaction. It is unfortunate that
it should not have been built a few years later. But
the extent and interior decoration of the building are
most striking ; and its site, in a park of magnificent
timber, watered by the sparkling Lowther, is scarcely
less so. The castle is freely shown to visitors. It
contains statuary, and some first-class paintings.
It should be addded that Haweswater is much better
approached by this road thanby the tracks across theHigh
Street range. The disadvantage of the latter is that
they bring you in sight of the lake from a height above
it, where only its tamer features are visible. In fact
when thus seen it is so ordinary looking, and gives so
little intimation of the rare beauty it assumes when
viewed from the proper point, that the tourist would
hardly care to descend to it. Accordingly, no strictly
“pedestrian route” is here given for this lake. Should it
however be wished to cross the mountain to it from
Patterdale, it can be done by following Route No. 30 as
far as the slope above the secluded tarn Hayeswater, and
on reaching the top of the ridge which overlooks Mar-
dale, turning to the left, and descending by the spur of
Kidsty Pike above Riggindale to Mardale Green.
Or, in very dry weather, the tourist, instead of making
this descent to Mardale, may continue north along the
main ridge of High Street for some distance further,
and descend by the next valley on the right—Eordendale.
But this is a rough and rather dull walk, and usually
boggy in the extreme. There is also a rather shorter cut
to the ridge above Hayeswater just mentioned, by turn-
ing right from the road into Bordale, page 121, and
ascending in the line of the Kirkstone road until Angle
Tarn is reached. Here a track to Kidsty Pike begins,
marked by posts. But this is not recommended.Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 29 : Helvelli/n.
129
PART III.
PEDESTRIAN ROUTES CONTINUED.
ROUTE XXIX.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Sections 2 and 5.
Ascent op Helvellyn (a) prom Ullswater,
with descent either to Wythburn (por Keswick)
or to Grasmere.—After passing the Church, take the
turning to Grisedale, which ascends a slight hill and
then descends into the valley. Here the Helvellyn
route crosses the stream by a bridge on the right, the
Grisedale road continuing up the valley. From this
bridge, the path ascends the mountain ridge on the
right in a long leftward slant, with occasional zigzags.
On surmounting this ridge, you pass through a gate in
a wall, and look over into a boggy valley with a cor-
responding ridge on the other side. These two ridges
form the two buttresses of the summit, which lies
immediately between them :—the peak opposite to you
on the other side is Catchedecam. The ridge you are
on, or rather the narrow neck which joins it to the
summit, is Striding Edge : its vis-a-vis is Swirrel Edge.
Svvirrel Edge is wholly without difficulty, but it is
much the longest; and to reach it, the boggy flat
underneath must be crossed. After this, the path is
clearly traceable along the “Edge,” until the main
chain of the mountain is reached ; after which you
turn left, and soon reach the summit.
Striding Edge, the one we are upon, was formerly
treated as a rash undertaking. In fact, until the foot-
path and footsteps in the rock upon it were plainly
{a) The ascent may also be made by the poney-roads diverging
from the Grisedale and Glenridding Passes, Routes 31 and 32.
But the ascent here given is far the most interesting.
I130 Ped. Koute, No. 29 : Striding Edge. [Sect. 4.
marked, it might easily have become dangerous. It
was here that Charles Gough met with the fate im-
mortalized by Scott and Wordsworth : although, indeed,
he attempted the ridge at a time when it was deep in
snow. He probably slipped on the snow, as Butler
did on Great Gable in the winter of 1864-65, and was
carried down over a precipice. The body was not found
for three months ; at the end of which time, as is well
known, Mr. Gough’s dog was still alive and watching
it. At the present time, and in ordinary weather, there
is absolutely no risk in Striding Edge, and scarcely even
uneasiness, unless to a very timid person ; while it is
far the shorter and more interesting route. At some
distance along it, after going through the gate in the
wall above mentioned, a tall cairn of stones will be seen.
This is passed, and the path is then well worn along
the edge, which certainly is narrow in parts, until the
latter joins the main mass of Helvellyn. You ascend
to this over a steep debris of rock, turning right to
reach the summit.
To descend to Wythburn, take the road which runs
south along the cliff line, in the direction of Coniston
Lake. Follow this, until it has headed the upper basin
of the first stream, and then keep down on the left bank
of the latter, keeping at some height above it. On the
edge of the lowest range, a path is reached which
descends by zigzags, crossing a stile in a stone wall.
To descend to Grasmere, follow the poney-road south
from the summit,which is well marked throughout, keep-
ing more or less along the main cliff-line of the mountain,
but occasionally bending away from it to the right, to
cut off some angle caused by the projection of its sides.
About two miles on, you go through an iron gate in a
wall, and reach the steep descent by which the road
dips to Grisedale Tarn. Here cross the foot of the
tarn, and follow the track on its opposite side, which
rises, a short distance on, to the summit-level of the131
Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 30 : High Street.
pass between Ullswater and Grasmere, bearing the same
name as the tarn. Crossing this summit-level, the
track then descends by the valley on the other side to
the Grasmere coach-road. In making this descent, it
is better to keep throughout to the poney-track on the
right of the valley, instead of crossing over to another
track which will be seen on its left side, and which
looks shorter. There is no difficulty in following this
poney-road, beyond the necessity of rounding behind
some broken cliffs about half-way down. For this pur-
pose, the road, after descending steeply from the sum-
mit-level of the pass, ascends again for a short distance,
keeping up under the masses of Seat Sandal on the
right, and then dropping rapidly down a grass slope to
the stream at its bottom. The latter is kept on your
left-hand all the way to the coach-road, which you join
a little above the fifth milestone.
ROUTE XXX.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent of High Street from Ullswater.—
Follow the Kirkstone Pass road (a) as far as the clus-
ter of cottages just below Brothers’ Water. Here, a
lane turns off on the left to a hamlet a short distance
up the stream there crossed, known as Hartsop. From
Hartsop, there is a well-marked road up to Ilayeswater,
which is followed without difficulty, bearing in mind
that Hayeswater lies in the left-hand ravine of the two
which unite at Hartsop :—that is to say, the left-hand,
as you look towards the ravines.
High Street is not in sight from Hayeswater, but
lies at no great distance on the right of the steep grass
(a) In lieu of the ascent here given, a somewhat shorter one
may be found by Angle Tarn, proceeding as mentioned on page
128 until the rising ground on the left of Hayeswater is reached,
and then proceeding as in this route. But the ascent here given
is the best and easiest.
I 2132 Ped. Route, No. 31: Orisedale Pass. [sect.4.
ridge which descends upon the head of the tarn. The
best mode of reaching it, however, is to strike from the
foot of the tarn, up the shoulder of hill there imme-
diately above you on the left, following the general
line of a peat-road which may be seen making the same
ascent in zigzags. On reaching the top of this shoulder,
turn to the right, and follow the edge of the grass ridge
which encloses Hayeswater, until you have rounded
past the head of the stream which forms the main
feeder of that tarn. You then turn to the left, and
High Street is reached without difficulty. For its
notalilia, see page 34.
EOUTE XXXI.
For hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 2.
Geisejdale (a) Pass eeom Ullswatee to Geas-
meee.—Leave Patterdale as in Route 29, page 129,
but instead of crossing the bridge for the Helvellyn
ascent, continue on the road up the valley. On reach-
ing the bridge above the last farm, take care to cross
it, and follow the track in the direction of some aban-
doned mining works which will be seen on the right-
hand side of the valley. The old road, which looks
rather the better and shorter of the two, kept on the
left side, and crossed by a bridge higher up; but this
bridge has now ceased to exist.
There is no further difficulty in the pass until Grise-
dale Tarn is reached. Here, the road skirts the foot of
the tarn, and then ascends at some height above its
left margin to the summit-level of the pass. The track
which continues on the right of the tarn is the poney-
road for Helvellyn.
From the Summit of the pass, you look over to the
Grasmere side, with a charming distant view of Conis-
ton. The descent to Grasmere is at first by some steep
(a) For the origin of the name, see page 123.133
Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 32 : Glenridding.
zigzags. At the foot of these, a track will be seen
leading across to the left side of the valley in which
you now are, after which it becomes well marked, and
apparently offers a shorter cut to Grasmere. But it is
better to keep on the right side throughout, proceeding
as directed in Route 29, ad Jin. See page 131.
ROUTE XXXII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 5.
Ullswater to Keswick, by Glehriddihg Pass
axd the top or Styx.—Take the road nearly opposite
the entrance gate of the Ullswater (Lake) Hotel, and
follow it up the stream, the latter being on your left.
Just above some cottages the road forks. Here take
the right-hand turn and ascend, keeping the stream
still on your left at some distance below, until you
reach the lead mines which are soon a conspicuous ob-
ject in advance. A rough road leading up the moun-
tain on the right before reaching the mining works is
to be disregarded.
At these works, the main valley tends left; but a
ravine, the sides of which are scalped bare by the
mining processes, will be seen descending upon it from
the right. High up on the further side of this ravine
a tram-road is seen, slanting up it from left to right;
and above this another road, first ascending in zigzags,
and then slanting in the same direction. This is the
one to be taken. Keep through two or three blocks of
buildings on the stream side of the works, and you then
come out on a part of the road overhanging the deep
gully of the stream, from which it is protected by a
light iron fence. Here turn sharp to the right, and
then back to the left again, which brings you to a
junction of four roads. The second road from the
stream is the one to be taken, passing on the right of
two detached cottages, a short distance beyond which
i 3134
Fed. Route, No. 32 : Styx.
[Sect. 4.
are the zigzags previously noticed. Ascend by these,
which are steep enough. The road then makes a long
slant, as before observed, in the direction of the ravine,
and then makes a further zigzag sharp to the left; be
careful to take this instead of keeping straight on.
Two or three short curves then bring you to the upper
valley from which the ravine descends. Soon after
this, the road forks. Take the right-hand and rougher-
looking track, which crosses the stream flowing into
the ravine, here almost obliterated by the mining, and
then makes for the foot of the ridge fronting you on
the opposite side of the upper valley, passing some
hovels and heaps of debris from the works. At the
foot of this ridge are some other huts, with an adit and
tram-road on their right. The road passes close on the
left of these huts, and then keeps up the valley, follow-
ing the direction of the ridge at the foot of which it
runs. A large reservoir is soon passed on the left, and
here the mining at present ceases, the upper part of the
valley resuming its pastoral character. The path is
now well-marked, and without difficulty, to the summit-
level, keeping the stream on its left throughout. The
latter portion of it has been seen in crossing to the
huts, and soon comes into view again after leaving
them.
The summit of the pass has been named Styx, for
some unexplained reason. It is a grass plateau of no
great width, and the track, which is still well marked,
crosses it in a straight line. The stones and other
marks running right and left along the summit line
are the county boundary. After crossing this plateau,
the road dips slightly, and crosses the boghead of a
stream, which immediately afterwards forms a deep
ravine on the left. The path, however, does not follow
the line of this stream, but crosses the shoulder on the
right towards another ravine, by which it eventually
desends. From this shoulder there is an admirable135
Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 33 : DocJcwray.
view of Keswick and Lake Bassenthwaite ;—the latter,
a floor of polished black marble to the hills which form
the vestibule of the Keswick valley. The path does
not at once dip into the hollow of the second ravine,
but keeps up parallel with it, nearly to the end of the
shoulder, where there are two piles of stones. It is
faintly marked in this part. At the second pile it be-
gins to descend, slanting down to a sheep-fold which
will be seen on the edge of another grass plateau below
the shoulder. From this point there is no difficulty,
the path being well marked throughout, and descending
in zigzags. The ravine, a fine specimen of rock chan-
nelling, is kept close on your right, until a bridge is
reached, just by a wall. You cross this, and the path
then leads across one field to a farm. Here turn to
the left, keeping the back of the farm-house on your
right, and you then come into a cart-road leading into
the St. John’s Yale road, where it joins that from
Ambleside to Keswick, about five miles from the latter.
ROUTE XXXIII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 5.
Ullswater to Keswick by Dockwray («), under
Helvellyn.—Follow the Pooley Bridge road to the
point, just beyond the “ Glencoin Beck,” where the
road comes out on the open beach of the lake. About
a quarter of a mile bejmnd this a well-marked footpath
turns off on the left. Following this, you strike the
coach-road from Ullswater to Keswick nearly at the
commencement of its ascent from the lake, having cut
off the corner by Lyulph’s Tower. This coach-road is
to be kept as far as the hamlet of Dockwray, from
(a) Although not so fine as the Glenridding Pass, this route is
not without merit, besides being much easier. The views of
Saddleback and Skiddaw from the terrace of moor which it tra-
verses are remarkably good.136 Ped. Route, No. 33 : St John's Yale. [Sect. 4.
which it turns to the right, and continues to Matter-
dale village, and thence, by a long detour of twenty-one
miles, to Keswick. The road under Helvellyn, which
forms the present route, turns sharp to the left at
Dockwray, after crossing a bridge just by the Cross
Keys Inn (“ Ro}^ Hotel ”). It then keeps up through
the small hamlet, and ascends the hill, having first a
pretty ravine on its left, and afterwards a stone wall on
the same side. Keep up by the latter, until you reach
the last enclosure, some farm-buildings in a plantation
on the left of the road. Just above this, the road goes
out on the open moor, turning right, and crossing some
boggy ground to a corner of the grass slope opposite,
one of the lower ridges of Helvellyn. Rising behind
this, you see the scarped cliffs which form the east end
of Saddleback. Follow the road to this corner, on
reaching which the whole of the Saddleback and Skid-
daw masses come in view : and from this point, you
also see the road in advance for some two or three
miles, first bending left towards a hollow of Helvellyn,
and then right again, till it crosses a shoulder nearly
opposite Saddleback. There is of course no difficulty
to this shoulder. On reaching it, the road dips to the
bog-head of a stream which it crosses, then bends to
the right, towards Skiddaw, and then rounds left over
another shoulder. From this it descends, after some
zigzags of no greab steepness, to the outbuildings of a
farm, and just below these joins the main road of the
St. John’s Yale. Here turn right, and follow this road
for a few yards, and then take a turning on the left,
which leads you down to a bridge. Shortly after
crossing this, instead of keeping straight up the hill,
take the right-hand turning, thus making, as it will be
seen, a highly objectionable angle, but for which there
is no remedy. The road thus taken slants across the
opposite side of the valley, passing a farm ; soon after
which take the turn to the left, which crosses a low137
Part 3.] Ped. Route, Nos. 34, 35 : Staveley.
shoulder and joins the turnpike road from Penrith to
Keswick. The right hand turn goes to Threlkeld.
ROUTE XXXIV.
Hotels and Inns as in Route 6, page 31.
From Haweswater to Windermere by Nan
Bield, Kentmere, and Staveley (a).—This is identi-
cal with No. 36 as far as the point indicated on page
141 as the divergence of the Staveley route.
Here, for Staveley, instead of taking the grass-path
leading to the wicket on your right, follow the road,
which continues without difficulty on the left side of
the valley, passing several farms and cottages, and
nearly on a level with the stream. It then rises from
the latter, and, soon after, passes a small fir plantation
on the right. Immediately after this, it is joined on
the left by another road, and the two continue together
to some cottages at no great distance in front. The
road which makes a slant back short of the cottages,
and then turns left and descends to Kentmere Bridge,
is to be avoided. Passing close under the cottages,
you continue without difficulty down the lower valley
of the Kent, crossing to its right bank near Staveley.
The latter is the last station before Windermere.
For Kentmere and Kentmere Hall, see page 21 and
note.
route xxxv.
Hotels and Inns as on page 31.
From Haweswater to Windermere, by Sled-
dale, Kentmere, and Staveley. — This route is
identical with Route 37 as far as the patch of open
ground, in Kentmere, just short of some cottages,
which is indicated on page 146 as the point where the
roads for Windermere, via Staveley, diverge. Keep on
(a) As to this and the five following routes, see page 20, note (6).138
Ped. Route, No. 36 : Mardale.
[Sec. 4.
to the cottages, avoiding the turn to Kentmere Bridge
at the same point noticed on page 137, and then pro-
ceed as in No. 31 from that point. See page 137.
ROUTE XXXVI.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 1.
From Haweswater to Windermere, by Nan
Bield, Kentmere, and Troutbeck.—There is a good
road on the right side of Haweswater and thence to
Mardale Green, where there is a small inn. See page
125. Here the stream of the upper valley is crossed,
and the track continues without difficulty for some
distance, keeping the stream on the right hand, and
passing at first through unenclosed land, and then in a
lane between two stone fences. On emerging from
these, a gate leads out on the broken ground at the
foot of Harter Fell, and here the road for Kentmere
and Windermere, via Sleddale (Route 37), di-
verges, turning up on the left, just beyond the gate,
and crossing a small hillock. After this, it keeps up
by the stream which descends from the basin of the
lateral valley on your left.
For the Nan Bield Pass, which follows the line of
the main upper valley, instead of crossing the hillock
on the left just mentioned, keep on in the previous
direction underneath it. The track is at first very
faintly marked in the grass; but it soon becomes
plainer, crosses the stream flowing from the lateral val-
ley, and ascending a further hillock, from which you see,
at no great distance in advance, a gate in the wall
fronting you. On reaching this gate, you see the
Sleddale road above mentioned ascending the valley on
your left in well-marked zigzags. In front of you are
the crags descending from the right-hand dip of Harter
Fell; and at the foot of these you see a wicket-gate in
the wall which crosses under the crags and runs downPart 3.]	Ped. Route, No. 36 : Smallwater.
130
from them to the stream on your right. With atten-
tion, a grass-track may also be made out crossing the
broken ground between you and the wicket. Make
for the latter, keeping the stream still on your right
throughout, and avoiding all turns which would lead
to or across it. After the wicket, the track is fairly
marked, allowing for an occasional patch of bog, and
also for one or two zigzags which must be looked out
for. The stream, at least its main branch, is still kept
on your right up to the point where it issues from
Smallwater; the beautiful tarn, lying under the crags
of High Street and Harter Fell, which forms one of
the most interesting features in this pass. The Hawes-
water ascent oe High Steeet, Route 42, is best
made from this point.
For Nan Bield, the road crosses the stream at the
foot of the tarn, then winds round the right side of the
latter, at a little height above it, and eventually zig-
zags up to the summit-level of the pass, which lies in
the left corner, under the crags descending from Har-
ter Fell, and in the lowest depression of the ridge
which unites the latter with the High Street chain.
Looking up to this corner from the stream at the foot
of the tarn, the summit is further marked by three
grass cones, each with a miniature turret of rock upon
it. As you ascend higher, these cones disappear, and
the summit is then marked by a single pyramidal rock,
having a detached upright stone a little below its apex
on the right, and three exceedingly bizarre figures
below this, on the same side. The pass crosses just on
the left of this rock. It is desirable to notice these
marks, as the ridge above the tarn has rather a cul-de-
sac appearance, and the road, after making a few well-
marked zigzags above the upper end of the tarn,
becomes so confused with watercourses, that to cross
from the right-hand side of the basin where you are,
to the left where the col is, without losing the trackj140
Ped. Route, No. 36: Nan Bield.
[Sec. 4.
is no easy matter. One turn to the left over grass,
under some slanting rocks, is especially to be shunned.
Instead of taking it, keep up still on the right, in the
line of some ancient zigzags now transformed into a
watercourse, and follow them for a short distance fur-
ther before making the final bend to the left. Towards
the summit of the pass, the track becomes well-marked
again.
From the summit, the road dips at once on the
Kentmere side, and may he seen for about a mile and a
half in advance, running in a line high up above the
valley, and nearly on a level; after which, it ascends
slightly to round a shoulder of hill just above the
reservoir seen below on your right. The descent from
the col to this level line is made by some steep grass
zigzags, and there is no difficulty until you reach the
shoulder above the reservoir just mentioned, excepting
what is caused by the numerous watercourses which
the path has to cross in order to keep its uniform
height above the valley. On ascending this shoulder,
and rounding to the other side of it, you have in front,
between you and the lower Kent valley, a long grass
spur running aslant that valley from the Harter Fell
chain on your left. The path, which is still well
marked, dips to this spur, bearing left towards a low
rocky projection at that end of it; and this direction
is kept until the edge of the spur is reached, opposite
some quarries. There is another track turning off by
a block of rock on the right, (just after you have
crossed a small rill of water,) and running along the
centre of the spur to its right-hand extremity, which is
to be avoided. Opposite the quarries just mentioned,
the path forks, the left-hand branch descending to them.
Do not take this, but follow the grass-track on the
right, which keeps along the edge of the spur until you
reach a hollow descending from the spur between ano-
ther rocky hump on the left, and a large rocky mass atPart 3.] Ped. Route, No. 36: Kentmere.
141
some distance on the right. Descending by this hol-
low, you join a track from the quarries, which, after
passing above some sheep-pens on the left, dips to a
stream, with a gate on the near side of it, and then be-
comes a well-marked cart-road, running under Harter
Fell on the left, and with the meadows of the Kent on
its right, to Kentmere village. Do not, however, pro-
ceed to the latter, which, for the present route, would
involve a tedious round ; but turn out of this road at a
point where the wall, which you have kept on your
right-hand all the way from the stream by the gate, at
first close to you, and then making a dip into the valley
and slanting up alongside of the road again, is crossed
by another wall, descending from a low crag of Harter
Fell on the left. At this point is the divergence of
the Statelet Route, No. 34. For Troutbeck, pass
through the gate in the cross wall, and then, as above
directed, turn out of the road, and take the short grass
path which descends the bank on your right. This
leads to a wicket in the wall, on the other side of
which you join a field-road, which, a few yards on, leads
to a stone bridge over the Kent. Cross this bridge,
and continue by the embanked margin of the stream
(«), until you come to a field with a thatched stone
barn nearly in its centre. Here, quit the stream, and
keep along a low fence, succeeded by a dyke, until the
barn is reached, from which a cart-track leads up into
the road on the opposite side of the valley. Following
this road down the valley, a farm is soon passed, and
the road then winds under the lower crags of the 111
Bell range. At the point where these crags begin to
recede from the road, there is a turn to the left, just
after passing through a gate, which is to be avoided,
the Troutbeck road keeping straight on, through another
gate, and past a single bush which will be seen in ad-
vance. Soon after this, a fir plantation is passed on
(a) See page 22, lower part.142 Ped. Route, No. 36: Kentmere Hall. [Sect. 4.
the left; and you then, immediately afterwards, go
through another gate, with a white house fronting you.
Here take the right-hand road from the gate, keeping
up above this house ;—the road running up between it
and the other buildings on its right is that described
in Route 37, leading from Haweswater to Troutbeck
and Windermere by Sleddale : and the last-mentioned
route is therefore from this point identical with the
present.
For both routes, some attention is here requisite. A
few yards beyond the white house, a small triangular
slope of common is reached, with a stream running
down by the wall on its further side, opposite to you.
Several tracks cross this patch of ground, and two of
them cross the stream. The one which crosses it low-
est down, at the bottom of the wall, leads to the
Applethwaite Common route for Windermere,
No. 38. For Troutbeck, follow the road which keeps
along the upper edge of the slope of common, and
crosses the upper part of the stream. Immediately
after this, the road forks, and here take the left-hand
branch, that on the right leading up by a steep ascent
on to the mountain. Soon afterwards, you go through
a gate ; and at this point there is another track leading
up to the high ground on the right, which is to be dis-
regarded. The road for Troutbeck follows the lateral
valley which here descends into that of the Kent, join-
ing the latter below the ruined tower of Kentmere
Hall; see page 21. The pass is in the left corner of
this lateral valley, the stream of which is kept on your
left throughout the ascent, although at some distance
from the road. About half-way up, after passing
through another gate by some sheep-pens, the stream
is joined by a wall, and the two run together nearly to
the summit of the pass. Here the road comes close to
them, and, soon afterwards, goes through a gate on to
the open moor which forms the summit-level. Cross-Part 3.]	Ped. Boute, No. 36: Troutbeck.	143
ing this, and, just afterwards, passing some rocks on
the right, the road divides at a right angle. Be care-
ful here to take the left-hand branch, leading towards
another gate which you will see at no great distance :
the road on the right is the old Boman way over 111
Bell. On the other side of the gate just mentioned,
the road commences the steep slant which takes it down
into Troutbeck. At some distance down, it forks, the
left-hand branch ascending slightly above a small tri-
angle of open ground with some stunted trees. Take
the right-hand road here, and the same at a second fork
someway further down, where there is a small planta-
tion of firs ;—nearly opposite the white tower of Trout-
beck Chapel, which here shows itself under your feet.
After this second fork, the road begins to descend
rapidly. Some little way down, it makes a sudden bend
to the right, passing How House, and then joins the
main road of the Troutbeck valley. Here, for Low-
wood and Ambleside, Boutes 40 and 41, you cross
the bridge which fronts you to the opposite side of the
valley. For Windermere, take the road to the left,
which ascends for some distance, and then runs nearly
on a level above the Lower Troutbeck valley, of which
it commands some beautiful views. There is nothing*
• •	•	•	•	O
requiring notice until about a mile and a half on.
Here, after passing a cottage on the right, used as the
Independent Sunday School, you are crossed by a lane
descending from the rising ground on your left, and
continuing the descent on the opposite side : this lane
is not to be followed in its descent. Soon afterwards,
another road joins you on the left, and the road you
have been following then makes a sharp turn to the
right, leading to Bowness, and, by a circuit, to Winder-
mere. Instead of following this, go through the iron
gate which here fronts you and leads to a carriage
drive, apparently private, but which is really a public
foot-way. At a short distance on, the drive bends to144	Red. Route, No. 37 : Sleddale. [Sect. 4.
the left, and the footpath then continues in the previous
direction, and enters a copse, crossing which, you are in
a narrow alley between two low fences of houses. On
emerging from this alley, take the path through the
wicket fronting you — not the road going down-hill on
the right — and there is then no difficulty to Winder-
mere, where the turnpike road is joined just below
Rigg’s Hotel.
ROUTE XXXVII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 1.
From Haweswater to Wixdermere, by Seed-
dale, Kextmere, and Troutbeck.—The route is the
same as No. 36 as far as the point mentioned on page
138 as the divergence of the present, or Sleddale,
route.
From the gate there referred to, the Sleddale road,
as mentioned on page 138, turns off on the left, cross-
ing a small hillock, and then keeping up by the stream
descending from the hollow basin of the lateral valley
on the left side of Mardale. At some distance up, you
go through another gate, and the road is then well
marked above you, ascending in zigzags to a small
table-land of moor which forms an upper platform in
this lateral valley. At the top of these zigzags, you
pass a sheep-pen on the edge of the moor; and, cross-
ing the latter, the road again zigzags up the grass
slope above it, making for the left-hand corner of the
ridge which connects Harter Fell on the right with
the mountain opposite. On completing this last ascent,
you have before you another platform of boggy ground,
over which the track leads to the right, towards a small
stony hillock. This it crosses, and, still keeping up
on the right under the slopes of Harter Fell, soon
reaches the summit-level. Here it bends slightly to
the left, and then right again, so as to round the
shoulder of Harter Fell. It then descends, at firstPart 3.]
Ped. Route, No. 37 : Sleddale.
145
gradually, and afterwards, on reaching the edge of the
boggy basin you have been skirting, in steep zigzags.
Soon after commencing these, you see below you a
sheep-pen by the side of a stream, on the left of a round-
headed hillock of some height. The road descends to
this sheep-pen without difficulty : some turns to the
right, leading to the Harter Fell quarries, will of course
be disregarded. On reaching the hillock, you wind un-
der it, and soon after cross a stream by a small bridge.
Just beyond this is an abandoned quarry, with a hut;
passing which, the track descends steeply by the side
of the stream, keeping it on the right-hand throughout
the descent, as well as along the flat of the Sleddale
valley below. About three-quarters of a mile down
this, a bridge is reached, opposite the first houses.
Cross here, and go through a gate, up a slight ascent,
and then take the left-hand turn, through another gate,
leading up to a farm-house on that side of the road.
Do not enter the farm buildings, but skirt round on
the right of them, which brings you into a shady lane
slanting up the hill behind the farm. At the end of
this lane, a stone fence continues on your left, which is
to be closely kept to, avoiding a somewhat attractive
road which zigzags up the rising ground on the right,
just above a stone barn. Following close by the wall,
you reach a gate, on the other side of which is
the ravine of a stream descending into Sleddale
from the fells on your right. On going through
this gate, the road changes its direction, and keeps
up by the stream, keeping it on its left-hand to the
summit-level of the pass, which is a mere neck of
land. Here you go through another gate, and join a
small stream descending on the Kentmere side of the
mountain.
Following this stream down, which is kept on the
left-hand throughout, the first farm is reached. You
pass on the left of this, and then keep straight down
K146 Ped. Route, No. 37 : Kentmere. [Sect 4.
for some distance, by a small plantation ; a track fork-
ing off on the left is to be avoided. Soon after this,
the road dips for a short distance, and then turns sharp
to the right, between two walls, and, soon afterwards,
sharp to the left, descending by a single wall on that
side, until it divides at a right angle, the right-hand
branch leading back to some farms under Harter Fell,
with two slanting peat-roads leading up the fell above
them. Here take the left-hand road, and descend by
it in the direction of the lower Kentmere valley, avoid-
ing a green road which turns out of it on the left, just
beyond a gate. At some distance down, you are joined
on the right by another road, running by a small fir
plantation, and forming the Route No. 34, leading
EEOM HAWESWATEB TO STAVELEY, BY NaK BlELD ;
see page 137. A short distance beyond this, you come
to a small slope of open ground on the right, with a
wall running down its near side. The road you have
been following continues to some cottages in front, and
forms the divergence of the two Staveley Routes
Nos. 34 and 35 ; see page 137. For Troutbeck, keep
down by the wall, joining, a few yards below, another
road which has slanted down to the same point out of
that leading to the cottages. On joining this, you
turn sharp to the left, and descend without difficulty
to Kentmere Bridge, where there is a small inn. From
this, you rise to the church, at the further end of which
the route eoe Whstdeemeee by Applethwaite Com-
mon diverges ; see No. 39. For Troutbeck, from the
•west end of the church, take the right-hand turning,
ascending by a stream; crossing which, and going
through a gate, you have a few yards on a white house
on the right. Go under this, and then between it
and some other houses on the left. Here, as will
be seen by a reference to page 137, you join Route
No. 36, and thenceforth proceed as directed in that
route.Part 3.]
Fed. Route, No. 38 : Kentmere.
147
ROUTE XXXVIII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 1.
From Haweswater to Windermere, by Nan
Bield, Kentmere, and Applethwaite Common.—
The route is identical with No. 36 as far as the tri-
angular patch of ground in the Kentmere valley noticed
on page 142 as forming the point of divergence of the
present route.
Here, for Applethwaite Common (ci), instead of
keeping along the upper edge of this patch of ground,
as directed on page 142 for Troutbeck, make for the
corner of the wall on the left of the patch, and then
cross the latter slantways to a gate in its opposite
lower corner, leading to a cottage with a yew tree in
its garden. Keep under the yew tree, and make for a
gap in the wall on the left of the barn opposite.' From
this, a field-path leads down to Kentmere Hall, (see
page 21,) and enters the farm-yard of the latter by a
wicket, leaving it by a large gate immediately after-
wards. You then skirt the lower wall of the farm-
yard ; on leaving which, and crossing a small stream,
you are joined by a road from Kentmere Church. This
forms the junction of Route 39, from Haweswater to
Windermere by Sleddale ; see page 150. You have
now in front of you a road slanting up the hill to some
quarries ; following which, at some little distance below
(«) It is useless making any enquiries in Kentmere about this
and the next route. The natives will not even admit a suggestion
of its being possible for a stranger to find this way to Windermere.
A little attention to the directions here given, however, will smooth
the difficulties; and the walk is far shorter and easier than that
by Troutbeck.
To avoid confusion, it should be added that the short ridge of
moor crossed by the Troutbeck road, (see 142,) is also part of
Applethwaite Common. But the name has been here confined,
for convenience, to the present two routes, which cross the main
portion of the “ common.”148 Fed. Route, No. 38 ; Applethivaite. [Sect, 4.
the quarries, you go through a gate, and then join a
wall on the left, by the side of which the road continues
its ascent without difficulty for some one and a half
miles, when it goes through a gate in a cross wall on
to the open moor. Here the road, which has hitherto
been perfectly well-marked, becomes hopelessly confused;
but the direction may be easily kept as follows. Cross
the small stream which will be seen on the other side
of the gate, and follow a green track ascending the
heather bank above the stream, bearing rather to the
right. On the top of this bank, you see before you,
on your left, a further stream, flowing in a deep channel
through the moor. On your right, is a chain of low
grass hills ; while, immediately in front is a wall run-
ning up to this chain from the further stream just
noticed. Make for a point in this wall about midway
between that stream and the hills, and you there find
a stone step-stile ; crossing which, bear again rather to
the right, making for the slopes at the foot of the grass
chain. On reaching these, do not get up upon the
chain itself, but skirt underneath it, keeping as near to
the hill only as will suffice to keep you off the heather
and boggy ground, and steering for the base of two
noticeable brown hillocks of no great height, which
will be seen in front of you at the left extremity of the
grass chain. By following this direction you work
back again rather to the left; while, from the stile in
the wall to the foot of the grass chain, the general
direction, as already noticed, has been to the right.
On reaching the foot of these brown hillocks, you
have before you, on the left, an undulating slope
covered with heather, and, beyond this, some low
rocky peaks on the edge of the moor ; and, by looking
closely, a track may be found in the heather leading up
to these peaks. On reaching them, the track, which
here becomes a fairly-marked cart-track in the grass,
winds among the masses of rock in a direction still toPart 3.] Ped. Route, No. 38 : Applethwaite. 149
the left. After following this for a short distance,
Lake Winandermere comes in sight; and, soon after-
wards, in the near distance, a white road ascending a
hill on the right of a pond of water. These serve as
further guides, the cart-track you are in hearing in a
direction to the left of the lake, and nearly due for the
white road, and runningfin a kind of hollow way be-
tween the rocks. On emerging from this, it crosses
over to a wall in front, and you then keep down close
by the latter, on its right side, until you reach a gate
at the bottom of the moor leading to a farm-house.
Do not go through this, but continue to another gate
a little below it, which leads to the commencement of
the road up the hill previously seen. Following the
latter for about three-quarters of a mile, you pass a
small triangular plantation of firs on your right, with
the car-road from Troutbeck to Kendal running up on
the other side of it, the plantation interposing a sharp
wedge between the two. Do not take the car-road,
but cross it to another lane, nearly, but not quite,
opposite the one you have been ascending. Following
this lane («), you are crossed, shortly afterwards, by a
road at right angles, and then descend to a farm with
two clipped yews. The lane passes in front of this,
and then, disregarding a turn on the left through a
gate, continues its previous direction for a short dis-
tance, when it bends away to the right. Here, take a
green cart-track leading it out of it on the left, through
a gate ; a stream is soon crossed, and the track then
leads over a tract of open ground, having a wall close
on its right. Follow this, until a stone step-stile is
reached, just beyond the point where the wall you have
been following is intersected by another wall at right
angles. Cross this stile, and then cross the open rising
ground on the other side of it; there is a fairly-marked
(a) As to the unavoidable angle thus made, see page 29.150 Ped. Route, No. 39 : Applethwaite. [Sect. 4.
path, which rounds under two trees which will be seen
above you on the left, and then runs parallel with the
wall seen at some distance below you on the right, until
it reaches a rocky patch in the ground. Here make for
a single tree which you will see in front, at no great
distance. Just beyond this, a gate leads into another
field ; and here there is a path running alongside the
fence of the latter, which you keep close on your right
until a stile is reached leading into the Elleray grounds.
Crossing into these, you find a road which makes a
bend to the right, and then descends in a direction to
the left until it reaches one of the Elleray carriage-
drives, just by a gate. Cross this drive ; and a rough
foot-track then leads down into another carriage-road,
over which there is a public footway to Windermere,
turning to the left on reaching the carriage-road, and
entering the village just below Rigg’s Hotel.
ROUTE XXXIX.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 1.
From Haweswater to Windermere, by Sled-
dale, Kentmere, and Applethwaite Common (a).
—This route is identical with Route 37 as far as Kent-
mere Church, page 146, which is there noticed as the
point where the present route diverges. From the
west-end of the church, instead of taking the right-
hand turning, by the stream, which would lead to
Troutbeck, keep straight on to Kentmere Hall, the
ivied tower of which is seen under the rising ground in
front of you. A little beyond this, the present route
is joined by that from Nan Bield, No. 38, as indicated
on page 147 ; the foot-track there mentioned, skirting
under the lower wall of the Kentmere Hall farm build-
ings, and then crossing a small stream into the road in
which you are. From this point, accordingly, the
further directions for the present route will be found
on page 147.
(a) See note on page 147.Part 3.] Ped. Route, Nos. 40, 41: TroutbecJc.
151
ROUTE XL.
For Hotels and Inns, see part 1 of this Section and of Section 2.
From Haweswater to Ambleside, by Nan
Bield, Kentmere, and Troutbeck.—The route is
identical with No. 36 as far as the point where the
road from Kentmere to Troutbeck joins the main road
down the latter valley, after making a sharp curve to
the right past the How House ; see page 143. Here
Route 36, for Windermere, turns to the left, ascending
a rising ground in the direction of the Lower Troutbeck
valley. For Ambleside, cross the bridge by the church,
and then immediately take the left-hand turning, lead-
ing up to the main street of the village. Following
this to the left, a few yards on you come to a Swiss-
looking cottage, with wooden galleries, on the left, and
an Elizabethan ivied farm-house opposite to it on the
right. Between the two houses is the turning to
Low wood Hotel and Ambleside, in which there is no
difficulty. By taking the steamer from Lowwood some
time will be saved, and a dirty bit of road avoided. Or
Ambleside may be reached from Troutbeck, without
passing Lowwood at all, by taking the rough cart-road
up the hill which immediately fronts you on reaching
the village, continuing the direction of the road followed
from the bridge as above directed. After ascending
steeply for some time, this cart-road winds round to
the left under the ridge of the hill, and reaches a rifle
butt, just after another steep grass lane has joined it
on the left. This is the point similarly described in
Route 1, page 20 ; and the directions given on the
latter page take without difficulty to Ambleside, pass-
ing Skelgill Farm.
ROUTE XLI.
For Hotels and Inns, see part 1 of this Section and of Section 2.
Haweswater to Ambleside, by Sleddale, Kent-
mere, and Troutbeck.—This route is identical with152
Ped. Route, No. 42 : High Street. [Sect. -i.
Route 37 as far aa the point referred to on page 146,
bottom, where ttj|6 route joins Route 36. After this,
Route 36 will or course be followed until the main
Troutbeck valley is joined, just below the How House.
Here quit Route 36, and proceed as directed in the
preceding Route, No. 40. See page 151.
EOUTE XLII.
For Hotels and Inns, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent oe High Street erom PIaweswater.—
This route is identical with Route 36 as far as the
stream issuing from Smallwater, the beautiful tarn at
the foot of the Nan Bield Pass referred to on paere
139.
For High Street, after crossing the stream, quit the
Nan Bield track, which winds round the right margin
of the tarn, and ascend the grass slopes immediately
above you, which terminate in the crags of the Pligh
Street range. There is a faintly-marked path in the
grass ; following which, and bearing away to the right-
hand extremity of the crags, you reach a gully in the
rock, of no height or difficulty to deter an ordinary
pedestrian; anything which does not answer this
description should be abstained from, and further quest
made. Climbing up this gully, }mu gain access to a
grass plateau lying above the crags. This plateau
should be crossed, at first in the direction of the Nan
Bield Pass, so as to look over into Kent mere. You
then turn to the right, and, ascending some easy slopes
of moor and boggy ground, arrive at the summit with-
out difficulty. High Street is described on page 34.
The upper tarn, above Small water, is Blea Water.SECTION V.
KESWICK, BORROWDALE,
CRUMMOCK WATER, BUTTERMERE,
AND ENNERDALE.
PART I.
NAMES OE HOTELS AND OTHER HEADS OE GENERAL
INFORMATION.
Hotels and Inns are :
At Keswick : Queen’s Head, rebuilt 186-1-65; and, in
connection with it, Poole’s Family Hotel and Boarding-
house at Portinscale—hoth excellent; Royal Oak;
King’s Arms ; Railway Hotel (adjoining the Station) ;
and others.
At Portinscale, miles on the Cockermouth road,
near the lake : Bell’s Herwentwater Hotel; Poole’s
Family Hotel (see above).
At Lodore : Lodore Inn.
At Rosthwaite, in Borrowdale : Oak Inn; Tourists’
Hotel.
At Scale Hill, Crtjmmock Water : Scale Hill Hotel ;
Hounds and Hare.
At Bttttermere : Fish; Victoria.
At Ennerdale : Anglers’ Inn.
KESWICK.
The environs of Keswick, and the town itself as an
exterior, are delightful. Even were Derwentwater
absent, the eye would never be sated with the fair vale,
enclosed on one side by the scarred slopes of Skiddaw,154 Keswick : General Description. [Sect. 5.
and on the other by the cluster of graceful peaks which
form the reverse of the Buttermere and Crummock
Water ranges ; and terminating in the mirror-surface,
alternately dark as marble and flashing like a floor of
gems, of Lake Bassenthwaite. This view you get from
the Penrith and Ambleside roads ; more perfectly, in
some respects, from the latter. And from this view
Derwentwater is at first absent. But, at the final
descent into the town, an unexpected angle brings you
in full sight of the matchless lake itself; so faultlessly
lovely, that it is impossible either to forget one’s first
impression of it or to detract from it by any subsequent
familiarity. Behind it, the deep indentation of the
Borrowdale valley runs up to the cliffs of Scawfell and
Glaramara, looking full of promise, and inspiring the
tourist with impatience to explore its recesses.
The above, with the Alpine-looking cliff of Saddle-
back lying rather back on the right, form the most
obvious features in the approach to Keswick. And
from these points of view, as well as in the numerous
walks in the neighbourhood, in which the main features
just noticed re-appear under every possible variety of
grouping, the homely little town itself plays no un-
graceful part. But it must be confessed that the
personal charms of Keswick become less evident on a
close acquaintance. You get extremely attached to it :
but you can no more ignore its lack of comeliness than
you can your nearest of kin’s sandy hair. The causes
of this we do not care to analyze. To do so, would be
discourteous to the cedar-scented mountain town,
identified with so many bright hours. Long may it
flourish, with its quaint stuccoed town-hall, its long
monotonous street, parting at the upper end into the
two prongs of a Y, its square stone-coped windows,
and pitched pavement, over which the wooden shoes of
the youthful population clatter like a charge of cavalry.
After all, one would grudge to find such shortcomingsPart 1.]
Keswick : Crosthivaite Church.
155
as a keen criticism might detect replaced by nineteenth-
century improvements.
When we speak of Keswick as “ cedar-scented,” we
are using the term advisedly, and not with some vague
idea of becoming poetical. Borrowdale contains the
only black-lead mine—called plumbago by its popular
name—in England. And to Keswick comes, eventually,
the black-lead, or wad as it is locally called, to be com-
posed into pencils ; so that of course the cedar comes
there too. We do not say that there are not other
odours in Keswick, which the visitor must discover for
himself. But it is unquestionably redolent of the last-
mentioned material. And, all day long, shavings of
the same cedar may be seen floating on the reaches,
lazy and still enough in dry weather, by which the
Greta, after passing under the town bridge, worms its
way to the margin of the lake which it never enters.
For the Greta, it may be observed in passing, does not
run into Derwentwater, although only separated from
it by a grass meadow, but joins the river Derwent after
the latter has issued from the lake. The principal
pencil manufactories are those of Mr. Wilson and Mr.
Banks. They are most interesting, and well deserve a
visit.
This matter of the pencils has come rather out of its
turn : but it may stand where it is. The other princi-
pal objects of interest are as follows :—
Crosthwaite Church and the Monument to
Southey.—Crosthwaite is the parish church of Kes-
wick, although it stands by itself in the fields, about
half a mile from the town. St. John’s Church, at the
east end of the town, is a modern building, the spire of
which is not wholly unpleasing at a distance. Cros-
thwaite belongs to the “Lake” type of church; a
plain oblong, with a tower at the west end, and, in this
case, with the addition of two side aisles and a cleres-
tory. But there is something massive and imposing156 Keswick : Southey's Monument.	[Sect, 5
about it; and the interior has been excellently restored
by Mr. Scott. Previously to this restoration, the
church was used on week days as a meat-market, the
pews by which it was then occupied being converted,
not altogether incongruously, into butchers’ stalls and
standings for pigs.
Southey’s monument, a recumbent figure in white
marble, fronts you as you enter the chancel door on
the south. It is well executed ; and few, either stran-
gers or residents, pass out of the church without
pausing for a glance at the calm brow and gentle yet
noble features of the sleeping bard. The view from
the wicket at the top of a lane-footpath ascending from
the west end of the church is one of the loveliest of
the many lovely views round Keswick. Southey’s
house, Greta Hall, stands on a rising ground on the
right of the road to the church, a short distance from
the bridge.
Me. Flintoet’s Model oe the Lakes (Admission
Is.)—This has been already mentioned in the preface,
and is almost too well known to require panegyric. It
lodges in the Town Hall, where the proprietor is in
attendance at all reasonable hours to explain it, and
advise on tours and walks generally. Nothing can
exceed Mr. Flintoft’s courtesy, or the valuable informa-
tion to be derived from consulting both the model and
himself.
Ceosthwaite Museum (Admission Is.)—A capital
hoard of local curiosities, which will occupy at least one
wet day. And it is not to be denied that there are
wet days at Keswick. The average of rainfall there,
by recent returns, was about four times that of the
south of England. But perhaps the returns are pre-
judiced. And, at any rate, things appeared to be quite
as bad at Ambleside.
Pettitt’s Galleet oe Lake Views (Admission
Is.)—This is the art pendant to Mr. Flintoft’s model.Part i.]	Keswick : Boats and Lake.	157
It is on the Ambleside roacl, and will repay a visit.
Keswick Library (Subscription 2s. 6d. a month,
with charges varying for shorter and longer periods).
—This is not a “ circulating library,” of which there
are two in the town, but a species of public institution,
arising from a bequest by Mr. Marshall, of Halstead.
The tourist must not come here for sensation novels ;
but he will find a large and really valuable collection
of other modern literature, grave and light.
We believe there is not much else to notice in the
town, excepting a fair billiard-table. But the walks
and near excursions in its neighbourhood will detain
us longer. In fact, every walk outside the town pre-
sents some new feature, and all beautiful.
The Boats akd Lake.—As we have said, the
straight line of the Keswick main street forks at its
east end, above the Town Hall, into a letter Y; another
street at the same time going off on the left at right
angles, and leading to the Itailway Station and Penrith.
Of the upper limbs of the Y, that on the left is the
Ambleside road, running past St. John’s Church ; while
the other leads to Borrowdale, and, taking the first
turn on the right, to Derwentwater and the boats.
The lower limb of the Y leads to Crosthwaite Church,
Portinscale, and the Cockermouth and Yale of New-
lands roads. Let thus much have been premised as to
the chorography of Keswick.
The boats are drawn up on a shingle beach, imme-
diately opposite the island which Mr. Marshall has
selected with admirable taste as the site of his residence.
The residence of the Earl of Derwentwater, whose
property, after its confiscation in the first instance to
Greenwich Hospital, has now passed by purchase into
Mr. Marshall’s hands, was on Lord’s Island ; the next,
Borrowdale-way, to Mr. Marshall’s. The latter inter-
cepts the view from the point where the boats lie; but
by following the path along the shore, you reach a low158
Keswick : Bound the Lake.
[Sect. 5.
rocky headland which juts into the lake and commands
its whole extent. This view is one of exquisite finish.
The boats will of course suggest a pull round Der-
wentwater; and it is impossible to have an occupation
more thoroughly enjoyable. As you round to the left
of Mr. Marshall’s island, the charming lawn, sloping
to the water’s edge, and overlooking the the whole
eastern section of Derwentwater, backed by Borrow-
dale and Glaramara, will hardly be passed without some
envious longings. As a more central point is reached,
the prominent features present themselves on each side,
and may be briefly sketched as follows:—Looking
westward, towards Bassenthwaite, you have Keswick at
the right hand ; a little to the left of which the Derwent
flows out of the lake. Just beyond this is seen Port-
inscale, a delightful village, which forms a kind of
westend to Keswick. To the left of Portinscale,
the lower margin of the lake is fringed with the
plantations on Sir John Woodford’s estate, now par-
tially let on building leases. Above these, and in
advance of the main mountain chain on this side, rise
the gorse-clad slopes and low double summit of Swin-
side. •
The exquisitely-shaped “Yale of Newlands ” opens
beyond this, forming the nearest road to Buttermere,
and separating two ranges of peaked hills, which the
intending pedestrian will find it convenient at once to
identify as the Grasmoor and Hindscarth chains re-
spectively. Grasmoor is to the right of the Yale of
Newlands, easily distinguishable by a singular knob in
the nearest of the peaks projecting from it. The latter
is known as Cawsey Pike, and becomes a familiar ob-
ject in all the Keswick views. The Hindscarth chain
is on the left of the vale, descending upon the lake in
a sharp grass ridge, fringed at the bottom with wood.
The two points, one considerably higher than the
other, into which this ridge rises, are “ the CatbellsPart i.]	Keswick : Hound the Lake.	159
and tlie road on the south shore of the lake is carried
under them, between the grass slopes and the wood.
Where the wood terminates, the eye will be caught by
the wheel and engine-house of some lead-mines ; and a
short distance beyond these the head of the lake is
reached. The road does not skirt this, but continues
on the Catbell side for some miles further, and then
descends to the pretty hamlet of the Grange, where
the Borrowdale Beck is crossed by a double bridge.
Above the Grange, Borrowdale runs up to the foot of
the Scawfell range and the Sty Head Pass, Glaramara
being on its left, and a double chain of mountain,
partly descending from Hindscarth and partly from
Great Gable, on the opposite side. The insulated
rocky height which forms one of the most effective
features in Borrowdale, and in the Keswick views
generally, is Castle Crag ; eaten out on the further
side by the quarries, which have reduced its summit to
a mere shell. To the left of the crag is Bosthwaite
village, the metropolis of Borrowdale; with Stone-
thwaite, a lateral valley of no great extent but of rare
beauty, opening beyond it, and leading by the Stake
pass to Great Langdale, and also by “High Raise” to
Grasmere. It should he added that this Stonethwaite
valley is the one most seen from Keswick and the lake,
forming from those points of view the apparent ter-
mination of Borrowdale. But in reality the latter
trends to the right behind Castle Crag, and continues
for some three miles further to Stockley Bridge and
the foot of the Sty Head pass, previously sending off a
short branch above Seatoller House, up which the
Buttermere road is carried.
Returning to the lake from this digression into
Borrowdale, we join it again by the Grange Road at
its north-east corner, a short distance above the well-
known cascade of Lodore. The latter has a comfortable
inn attached to it, immediately in the rear of which1G0
Keswick : The Lake.
[Sect. 5.
rise the two beautiful crags between which the fall
descends. Lodore is visible for miles round, after rain,
and audible at all times; although its low murmur
over the lake in ordinary weather is very different to
the sough which booms on the ear after forty-eight
hours’ downfall. Still further down the north shore is
Barrow House, nooked into a small slope of grass-land
left between the cliff-line of Bleaberry Fell and the
water’s edge. Below this, come Falcon Crag and Walla
Crag, clothed nearly to the summit with Mr. Marshall’s
woods, through which some highly enjoyable paths have
been cut. A hollow opening in Walla Crag is called
the Lady Bake, the Countess of Derwentwater having
made her escape by this outlet in 1715, when the Earl
was arrested for treason. The detached wooded hill
below Walla Crag is Castle Head, and from this the
road dips to Keswick.
As regards the lake itself, besides Mr. Marshall’s and
Lord’s Islands, already noticed, there are two others of
some size; Bampsholm, between Lord’s Island and
Barrow House ; and St. Herbert’s Isle, nearly opposite
to it. St. Herbert was an intimate ally of St. Cuth-
bert, and prayed that he might depart this world at
the same day, hour, and minute as his friend ; which
he is accordingly reported to have done. The island
formerly contained a chantry, where mass was sung.
The lake is about three miles long by one broad, and
is liable to become strangely agitated at times when
there is a total absence of surface wind or other appa-
rent cause to account for the phenomenon. It also
possesses a floating island, which, however, does not
exist en permanence, but rises from the bottom at
capricious intervals, usually of some years. In still
weather, the visitor will be at once struck with the
clearness of the water and the brilliant colouring of
the pebbles beneath it, which are seen at the depth of
twenty or thirty feet, glittering like a Mosaic pave-Part 1.]
Keswick : Fortin scale.
161
raent. Derwentwater in hard winters is frozen from
end to end, and forms a skating-ground which it would
probably be hard to match. This occurred in the win-
ters both of 1863-4, and 1864-5. During the latter,
Lieut.-Col. Wake held a torchlight review of his rifle
corps on the ice.
In its normal condition, the usual “excursions” on
the lake, as distinguished from its general navigation,
are to Portinscale; Lodore; and the lead mines. The
landing-place for Portinscale is a short distance down the
Derwent, just before its junction with the Greta. The
approach to it, which it is difficult to hit otherwise, is
marked by a pole with a flag flying upon it. There is
also a very pretty landing-place for the Catbells, in a
little bay just beyond Sir John Woodford’s residence.
Returning to the Keswick near walks and excursions,
the first in order—at any rate the most level—is that to
Portinscale.—This is a pretty village, or rather
hamlet, almost of the Devonshire type, about a mile
and a quarter from Keswick, on the Cockermouth road.
There is a pleasant footpath to it over the meadows,
turning off from the main road just after you cross the
Greta Bridge at the bottom of the town. The Greta
itself skirts these meadows, approaching the lake, but,
as has been already noticed, without entering it. Its
waters join those of the Derwent, just after the latter
has left the lake, and a short distance above the Portin-
scale Bridge, where the footpath just mentioned rejoins
the road. The picture from this point, with the bridge
in the foreground, and the peaked summits of the
Grasmoor and Hindscarth chains behind, will long fix
itself in the memory. Portinscale itself is one of the
most delightful places a man can select for his tem-
porary home. Its hotel accommodation has been
already noticed, page 158; and there are lodging-
houses as well. Boats are also kept at the Derwent-
water Hotel; Poole’s ; and elsewhere.162
Keswick : The Catbells.
[Sect. 5.
The Catbells.—The footpath to these branches off
from the Yale of Newlauds roach On reaching Portin-
scale, take the left-hand turn through the village.
The path commences about half a mile beyond this,
and has been so excellently cared for by Sir John Wood-
ford, through whose land it passes, that there is no
possibility of error. Sir John’s own residence lies in
the plantations on the left, out of sight from the path,
and indeed from most points. As with Circe’s abode,
all that shows itself is “ a smoke ascending from earth
with her wide thoroughfares, through the close copses
and the wood.” But it is most delightfully situated.
On reaching the foot of the Catbells («), you ascend
through a small plantation, and then strike the road
leading round the south shore of the lake, which has
diverged from the Buttermere road about half a mile
short of this spot. And here we venture to differ from
Sir John Woodford, although it seems hardly gracious
to do so. The point of junction with this road is the
commencement of a zigzag by which it is carried up
some rising ground at the foot of the lower Catbell;
and here Sir John has cut a capital path to the latter,
marked by posts, and continuing afterwards to the
higher Catbell. But the ascent will, we think, he
more artistically made as follows :—On joining this
road, keep straight along, in a direction up the Yale of
Newlands, and having the Catbells on your left, and
not following the sharp angle of the zigzag back to
the left, which leads to the lake and the right side of
the Catbells. Continuing this direction, you pass in
succession two small farms on the right, lying in a hol-
low underneath the road. Just beyond the second, at
a point where a stone fence on your right is replaced,
for some distance, by a hedge, you see a grass-track
ascending the slope above you on your left. At some
(a) There is a convenient landing for boats here; see page 161.Parti.] Keswick: Vale of Newlands.	163
distance up, this track bends back to the left at a sharp
angle, and strikes the ridge between the two Catbells.
Following this, you then join Sir John’s path for the
higher of the two summits. The advantage of this
mode of ascent is that the effective points of the view,
viz. the lake and Borrowdale, are not seen until you
are at the top, when they break upon the eye with
great loveliness. The lateral valley of Stonethwaite,
the apparent termination of Borrowdale as seen from
this point (a), is especially noticeable. Its rich flat of
meadow land, nestling at the foot of the Eagle Crag,
and forking at the head into the two upper valleys
which form the High Baise and Stake Passes, might
have suggested Martin’s “Plains of Heaven.” The
view of the Yale of Newlands and the Buttermere
mountains is also exceedingly good from this point.
Altogether, there is hardly a more pleasurable ascent
in the district than this of the Catbells, always pre-
suming a fine day. It should on no account be left
out from the tourist’s programme.
Yale of Newlands. Cawset Pike. Swinside.
Braithwaite.—These are all walks on the Portinscale
side of Keswick, and all full of interest. For the Yale
of Newlands, you take the left-hand road through
Portinscale, and, after rising the hill about a mile on,
the right-hand. The road continues to Buttermere,
crossing the neck which connects that ill-used moun-
tain, Robinson, with the Grasmoor range; but the
best features of the valley can be seen in a walk of two
or three miles beyond Portinscale. Its beauty is
deservedly celebrated. The mountain into which its
two left-hand branches run is Hindscarth ; a horse-shoe
chain in shape, descending, on the Derwentwater side,
in the steep slope of the Catbells, and fronting the Yale
of Newlands with the square-topped summit—not its
(a) See page 159.
L 2164
Keswick : Cawsey Pike.
[Sect. 5.
real summit;, but that of one of the ends of the horse-
shoe—which catches the eye on the Portinscale field-
path by its contrast with the sharp-pointed heights
round it. There are several mines and a small church
in Newlands, with lanes and fieldpaths leading along
and across the vale in all directions. From the mining-
works just above the church, a footpath crosses the
neck which unites Hindscarth with the Catbells, de-
scending upon Derwentwater on the other side, or
forming a convenient ascent for the higher Catbell,
which lies immediately above it on the left.
On the right-hand side of the car-road which leads
up this valley, the ravines descending from the Gras-
moor chain are all worth exploring. The finest of these
lies beyond Cawsey Pike, whose knobbed peak is at
once distinguished ; the ravine on the near side of Caw-
sey Pike leads to the summit of Grasmoor ; see Eoute
49. The Pike itself is often ascended, which there is
no difficulty in doing ; but it is not altogether tanti, as
on reaching the top you have still the higher ridges of
Grasmoor above you. It is better to try for the latter,
as in the route just mentioned. Swinside is the hill
immediately on the right of the car-road, about a mile
and a quarter beyond Portinscale. It is a delightful
walk, and of course a much easier one than Cawsey
Pike, especially since Sir John Woodford has taken it
under his patronage, and cut some winding paths to
the top. Braithwaite is a village on the Scale Hill
road. On leaving Portinscale, you turn to the right,
ascending a rising ground, and then dipping to some
houses ; and Braithwaite is about a mile and a quarter
beyond these, at the foot of Grisedale Pike. The Scale
Hill road quits the Cockermouth coach-road just short
of the village, the latter continuing down the valley to
Lake Bassenthwaite. Braithwaite is not much in
itself, but a walk along the mining-road to the head of
Coldale will not fail to gratify the tourist, even if hePart 1.]
Keswick : The Derwent.
165
does not make the pass to Scale Hill this way ; see
Route 58. There is also a charming scramble of about
a mile up the Coldale stream, above the village ; sup-
posing, that is, that the water is not too high. The
scene is a miniature, of course; but there are worse
occupations on a summer’s afternoon than loitering
over the rock-bed and luxuriant fern-growth of the dell,
bright with the red berries of the mountain ash, and
musical with the ripple of the clear brown water under
your feet. The kind of defile by which the Scale Hill
road ascends from Braithwaite will also be admired ;
and the terraced grass hill on the right of this road
commands admirable views of Skiddaw, Bassenthwaite,
and the vale of Keswiek. It should be added that,
between Portinscale and Braithwaite, a green lane
through gates should be taken, leading over a low hill,
in lieu of following the coach-road. Formerly this lane
was the road, before the latter was carried round the
hill: now it is grass-grown, beautifully cool and shady,
with peeps of Skiddaw and hedge-rows of ripe black-
berries.
Paths by the Deewent.—The Derwent, as we
have already mentioned, is the stream crossed at Portin-
scale Bridge, flowing from Derwentwater to Lake Bas-
senthwaite. There is a path on each bank from the
bridge, continuing nearly to Bassenthwaite ; but the
one on the left bank, passing under the Howe Farm, is
the best trodden. It will be found described in Route
44, forming the commencement of the ascent of Skid-
daw from Portinscale, No. 4. In dry weather, this
walk is one of the most enjoyable round Keswick.
If time and ability serve, it is worth continuing the
Skiddaw route just referred to as far as Mire House,
and then taking the turn on the left which leads to
Bassenthwaite Church. The latter stands in a green
meadow near the lake, and is a picture of stillness and
seclusion. About a mile and a quarter beyond it, a
l 3166
Keswick : Bassenthwaite.
[Sect. 5#
low spit of land projects into the lake, beautifully
feathered with trees. This is called Scarness, and can
be reached from the church without much difficulty.
The spot itself, as well as the view from it, will amply
repay the extra exertion. The tourist indeed may be
disconcerted to hear, as he will be told by the guide-
books of a few years back, that here “ Scarness rushes
into the water.” But there is probably no serious
danger.
From the lake’s edge at all points on the north
shore of Bassenthwaite, the cliffs descending from
Whinlatter and Wythop Fell, as the mountains on the
opposite shore are successively termed, show to far
greater advantage than would be supposed by any one
who has only seen them from Keswick. The boldest
of these rocks is called Barf. Grisedale Pike is also
infinitely more imposing from Bassenthwaite than from
any other point of view, forming a bold pyramid over
Whinlatter. After continued wet weather, this valley
of the Derwent is flooded from end to end, and the two
lakes join, forming a sheet of water upwards of ten
miles in length.
On the north side of Keswick, the various ascents of
Skid daw are given as Routes 43 and 44, and that of
Saddleback as Route 45. But there are several walks
short of these ascents, which should not be overlooked.
The most beautiful of these is that to
Applethwaite and Millbeck.—On looking at
Skiddaw, it will be seen that its Keswick front is
furrowed by two deep ravines. The furthest, and most
important of these, runs up nearly under the main
summit, which, however, is not seen from the town,
the cairn there visible being on a somewhat lower point,
short of the real summit. At the foot of this further,
or central, ravine is a flannel-mill, and a small hamlet,
which is Millbeck. Applethwaite is the hamlet at the
foot of the nearer ravine.Part l.]
Keswick : Millbeck.
16?
To reach these two places, follow the Skiddaw As-
cent No. 43, as far as the Spooney Green Farm. Here,
instead of continuing by the green lane and path up
the hill, which lead up to Skiddaw, turn to the left,
just above the farm-buildings, and follow a field-path
which, after some distance, comes out into a lane. The
first house on the left from this point is Ormathwaite,
a private residence rather off the road. Quitting the
latter here, and passing through the farm-offices, a
public footway crosses the meadow in front of the house
to a wicket opposite, and thence continues to Apple-
thwaite. Here, you keep up by the side of the stream,
and reach a terrace road running at the base of Skid-
daw, and leading to Millbeck, for which the left-hand
turning must of course be taken. The views of Der-
wentwater and the vale from this terrace-ground are
exceedingly beautiful. At Millbeck, cross the stream
which runs through the hamlet, and take a path at the
further side of the ground where the flannels are hung
to dry. This leads out on the open mountain, and
then bends back towards the beck. Do not follow it
down to the latter, but strike into a sheep-track which
rounds the shoulder above you, and descends to the
ravine formed by the beck at a higher point, where
there is a small but pretty waterfall, with the lofty
masses of Skiddaw towering above it. The solitude of
this spot is very striking.
If the Millbeck walk is too long, or has been already
taken, proceed to Applethwaite as already directed ;
but, on reaching the road running under Skiddaw, cross
over it, and continue up the stream to a cottage. Above
this, a road on the Keswick side of the stream, at some
height above it, leads to a rifle-butt which has been
organized in the deep hollow made by the Applethwaite
ravine. Or a scramble up the bed of this stream, where
there is also a tiny waterfall, may be made to the same
point.168
Keswick : Latrigg.
[Sect. 5.
Latrigg.—We have spoken of the two ravines, or
indentations, by which the face of Skiddaw is marked.
It will be seen that, in addition to these, it throws off
a kind of projecting outwork at each extremity. The
further from Keswick of these two projections is the
Skiddaw Dod ; just beyond the Millbeck ravine. The
nearer is Latrigg, the wooded slopes of which, in fact,
form the northern screen of Keswick. It is reached by
the same approach as Skiddaw, taking the green lane
and path above Spooney Green Farm, as in Route 43 ;
and then, instead of following the carriage-road which
winds round the hill, ascending some of the grass-paths
which lead up it. If Skiddaw cannot be ascended,
Latrigg forms a very fair substitute. The views of
Derwentwater and the valley, which are one of the
main charms of the Skiddaw ascent, are perhaps seen
to even greater advantage from Latrigg.
Valley of the Greta.—Some hurried peeps at the
Greta glen are obtained from the railroad, by which it
is traversed between Threlkeld and Keswick. Should
it be wished to see more of its beauties, follow the
Saddleback ascent, Route 45, as far as the Glenderaterra
stream which descends between that mountain and
Skiddaw, and there falls into the Greta. The physical
singularities in the course of the latter stream, between
Lake Thirlmere and its junction with the Derwent
below Derwentwater, have been noticed on page 64
and 155. The laminae of black stone in its bed emit a
ringing sound when struck. The late Mr. Crosthwaite
found them in sufficient number and variety to produce
a musical instrument of two octaves, now exhibited at
the Museum, and on which his daughter plays with
undeniable success.
Druidical Stones ; on the old Penrith road.—
About three-quarters of a mile out of the town, the
Penrith coach-road, now superseded by the railway,
crosses a bridge over the latter, just above a breweryPart 1.]
Keswick : Druidicctl Stones.
169
on your left. The Penrith old coach-road is the second
turning on the right after this bridge, ascending the
hill steeply by the side of a plantation. Be careful not
to confuse it with the turning just before, which leads
across to the Ambleside road.
The stones, which are forty-eight in number, stand
in a field on the right of the old road, a short distance
after you have reached the top of the hill, and just be-
yond a lane which turns out of this road on the right.
There is a stile with a footpath leading to them. They
are of no great size, and a climber of enterprise and
activity will easily seat himself on the highest. But
they are striking; as such monuments, separated from
our own time by an unexplored and recordless past,
ever must be. And their position is itself remarkable,
commanding nearly all the summit-ranges of the dis-
trict detached from the culture and human occupation
of their lower slopes, which are wholly out of sight
from the high-table ground formed by the field. Would
that Stonehenge stood in this august mountain re/xevos,
instead of overlooking the turnip crops and other farm-
ing desolations which every year filch a few additional
roods from the trefoil of its now scanty down !
Castlekigg.—The Ambleside road reaches Keswick
by a long, and in some parts steep, descent of nearly
two miles. The superb views on this part of the road
have been already noticed, page 154 : Castlerigg is the
name of the hill down which this descent is made.
The tourist who has not seen Keswick from this point
should not fail to do so. If it is wished to prolong
the walk, a lane will be found, near the top, leading to
some farms on the right of the road, with a pretty
stream, descending into a wooded dingle below them,
and eventually crossing the Borrowdaie road. By
keeping on the right of the stream above the farms,
you come out on the slopes of Bleaberry Fell, above
Walla Crag and the lake; assuming, that is, that you170	Keswick: Watendlath.	[Sec. 5.
are not absorbed in some desperate bogs en route, which
in wet weather is no very unlikely contingency. On
the opposite, or left, side of this stream above the
farms, a Roman road crosses some inclosed ground, and
may be tracked by fragments of its stone pitching for
two or three miles up on the fell.
Castle Head.—As you leave Keswick for Borrow-
dale, the first wooded hill on the left is thus named.
It is so near the town and so favourite a point of view,
that it ought perhaps to have been mentioned earlier.
But is has been thought more convenient, here as else-
where, to describe the near walks in regular order of
progression. A well-made path leads to the summit,
leaving the Borrowdale road by a low stone stile on
the left, about two-thirds of a mile from the town.
Watendlath : Watendlath Road. — See page
89 ; also the commencement of Route 53. The view
there referred to over the two lakes, Denventwater and
Bassenthwaite, is one of the gems of the district; and
the copses through which the first part of the road is
carried, as well as the up-lying glen which it afterwards
traverses to Watendlath, are also in themselves full of
pictures. Watendlath is a collection of farms and cot-
tages, in an out-of-the-way situation, and with a singu-
lar little round lake adjoining them, which no doubt
determined the choice of the locality. If the tourist
has got so far, and does not intend to prosecute the
remainder of Route 53, he may cross the ridge on the
south of Watendlath into Borrowdale, in which there
is no difficulty, and so return to Keswick. Or, he may
retrace his steps down the glen to the edge of the
copse, just short of which a picturesque bridge will be
seen, thrown across the stream by which the road has
been running, and which eventually forms the Lodore
Fall. Above the bridge, the path ascends steeply to
the left, and then turns right, and continues by the
side of a wall. Following this, you come out on aPart 1.]
Keswick : Lodore.
171
neck of land, from which you have the exquisite view
of Derwentwater, “ set ” in the Lodore chasm, which is
described on page 172. From this point, there is an
easy descent into the Borrowdale road, a short distance
above the Lodore Inn.
Barrow House Waterfall.—Admission to this
fall is obtained at the lodge, which you reach soon
after passing the road to Wabendlath described on page
170, and in Route 53. The fall is of considerable
height—120 feet. Having seen it, the tourist should
not omit to step on to the boat-pier in the little bay
just opposite the house. The view of Skiddaw from
this point, with Derwentwater in the foreground, is
probably the best that can be obtained.
Lodore.—Lodore Inn is on the margin of the lake,
a short distance beyond Barrow House. And Lodore
Waterfall, or rather cascade, is in the deep rift of the
crags behind it; and, unless you choose to trespass,
must be reached through the inn grounds. As to its
merits, the visitor must form his own opinion. One of
the early guide-books observes, with some naivete, that
it is “the misfortune of this celebrated fall to fail
entirely in dry weather.” The peculiarity certainly is
hardly what one could wish in a waterfall. Should the
tourist happen to find Lodore thus afflicted, he must
console himself with Southey’s lines, which will catch
the eye in every shop-window in Keswick.
It should be observed that the path leading to the
fall continues on the left side of the stream for some
distance above it. It then ceases ; but there is no
difficulty in scrambling up higher, and rounding under
the two headlands of cliff which form the left wall of
the chasm through which the stream flows. Here you
are in the plantations crossed by the Watendlath road ;
and by seizing the thread to some rather intricate grass-
paths in the wood, may succeed in reaching the latter.
But it should not be attempted too near dusk. And,172
Keswick : Above Lodore.
[Sec. 5.
at any time, a far more picturesque variant for the
return route to Keswick is found by coming back to
the inn, and ascending to the neck of land behind the
right-hand crag of Lodore, as directed below on this
page.
View of Derwentwater from above Lodore.—
Assuming the claims of Lodore to have been satisfied,
as mentioned above, the following supplementary walk
is highly recommended. Or, of course, the walk may
be taken in the first instance.
After passing Lodore Inn, continue on the Borrow-
dale road for a short distance, until you have passed
the line of precipitous crag which, as you front the
cascade, form its right-hand wall. Here, just short of
a small farm-house, is a grass-path on the left, turning
up by a wall, and ascending the slope of green sward
between the cliff under which you have just passed and
the succeeding one. This ascent is of no great height,
and wholly free from difficulty; and, on reaching the
top of it, you are rewarded by a view of Derwentwater
“set” in the Lodore chasm, and presenting a picture
of almost magical beauty.
From this point, the path bears away to the right,
ascending another easy slope to the stone fence of a
plantation. It then follows the fence, and rounds with
it into the lower part of the glen leading to Watend-
lath, descending by a sharp turn leftward to a foot-
bridge over the Watendlath stream, just before the
latter dips for its plunge through Lodore. The view
from this bridge up the valley has some excellent
points. A short distance on, you join the road from
Watendlath to Keswick, which is the pleasantest mode
of returning. At the point where this road comes out
on the edge of the cliff, you obtain the view over
Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite noticed on page 171.
The last descent before joining the Keswick road also
presents some admirable points.Part l.'J
Keswick : Borrow dale.
173
Borrowdale.—Many who have never visited the
lake district are familiar, both by description and paint-
ing, with the name of its most famous valley. Borrow-
dale commences at The Grange, a hamlet with a church
and two highly picturesque bridges. Its most effective
portions lie between this and Rosthwaite, where the
masses of rock and water, grouped with the hold cliffs
of Castle Crag and Maiden Moor, and the wooded hills
at the foot of the latter, offer a series of unrivalled
subjects. Borrowdale is said to have been so named
from the wild boars by which it was formerly occupied,
and whose memory still survives in another familiar
name; that of the “Sty Head” Pass into Wastdale.
But we confess that the etymology rather savours of
our old friend the Scholiast. Other formidable in-
mates of the valley were the eagles, who established
themselves on a lofty crag, to which they have also
bequeathed their name, a short distance from Ros-
thwaite ; and here they levied black-mail on the dales-
men at th'; rate of a lamb per diem. At a still later
period, Borrowdale was still considered a dangerous
and savage locality, the exploration of which should
not be lightly attempted. Mr. Gray was so appalled
by the accounts of it, that he thought discretion the
best part of valour, and stopped short at the Grange.
“ Above Seathwaite,” he writes, “all farther access is
barred to prying mortals : only there is a little path
winding over the fells, and, for some weeks in the
year, passable to the dalesmen.” And “this dreadful
road,” he learned, “ afterwards divided again, for Raven-
glass and Hawkshead.” But Gray was no mountaineer ;
as witness his opprobrious epithet of the “ horrid
Alps ! ” As regards Borrowdale, there might be some
ground for apprehension, if the description of an early
guide-book, that here “rock riots over rock,” were to
be taken literally. But we presume we shall be justi-
fied in acquitting this alleged convulsion of nature of/
174	Keswick: The Bowder Stone. [Seot.5.
anything but bold metaphor. Borrowdale, boars and
all, was once an appanage of Furness Abbey, which no
doubt made a good thing of it. The Grange was used
by the monks as a granary for their crops ; and here
also was stored the deposit of a small salt-spring which
trickles into the lake near the spot.
Between Bosthwaite and the Grange, but nearer to
the latter, lies the illustrious
Bowder Stone, perched on a rising ground to the
left of the road. At least, if the Bowder Stone is not
illustrious, it is no fault of its own, for it proclaims
itself in all directions. So numerous are the invitations
and instructions for visiting it, that one would fancy
the Bowder Stone to be the final cause of Borrowdale
having been allowed to exist at all.
However, there it is. And it is a very large stone ;
and there is a ladder to the top of it; and a very well-
informed and civil guide, or Hierophant, below, pos-
sessed of all necessary statistics as to the length and
breadth, height and weight, of the phenomenon. So
may its shadow never be less.
A short distance beyond the Bowder Stone, is one of
the most beautiful reaches of the Borrowdale Beck :—
beautiful, whether you look up or down the stream.
The road then quits the beck, and runs between hedges
to Bosthwaite, bringing into sight on the way Scawfell
Pike, the loftiest of the English mountains, and Great
Gable ; both easily recognized by their cairns. The
Pike will of course be looked for on the left of the val-
ley, and Great Gable on the right. The long ridge run-
ning up towards Scawfell Pike, and also terminating in
a cairn-topped summit, is Glaramara. The lofty cliff
forming the northern base of Scawfell is Great End.
Bosthwaite (in Borrowdale).—This is an attractive
place of sojourn in itself, and an excellent centre for
mountain walks-. The most important of these will be
found detailed in the subsequent Pedestrian Boutes.Part i.]	Keswick : Castle Crag.	175
Among those closer at hand, the first place will prob-
ably he given to the picturesque
Castle Crag ; see page 159. To reach it, take the
lane opposite to the Royal Oak Inn, in Rosthwaite,
which leads to some stepping-stones over the Borrow-
dale Beck ; or, if the water be high, there is a bridge
lowrer down the stream. From either of these points,
the wood-cutter’s road up the side of the crag is a
marked object ; and a cart-track from the bridge, or
stepping-stones, leads to the foot of it without diffi-
culty. The crag may also be reached from the Grange
by following the Pedestrian Route No. 48 as far as the
neck of land uniting it with the Hindscarth range, and
so descending upon Rosthwaite; but it is rather a
difficult climb from this neck. On the summit are the
remains of a fort, probably Roman.
Watenelath ; see page 170.—A cart-road crosses
the ridge from Rosthwaite to the secluded farm and
tarn thus named. The return to Rosthwaite may be
made by the beautiful walk above Lodore described on
page 170. Or the longer round by Barrow House may
be taken.
Stotstethwaite to the foot of Eagle Crag.—Eagle
Crag is the double-headed cliff lying south-east from
Rosthwaite, and forming its most attractive feature.
The walk to the foot of it, by Stonethwaite Church
and hamlet, and over the basin of green meadow behind
them, forms the commencement of Routes 51 and 52.
There are few pleasanter or more beautiful walks in the
neighbourhood; and even if it is not wished to cross
the passes to which they lead, the two routes just
referred to should be followed as far up the valleys as
time will permit. The narrow footbridge over the
stream in No. 51, and the fine rock-channel of that by
which the path ascends in 52, should be particularly
noticed ; also the point of junction of the two streams,
for which it is necessary to diverge somewhat from the
path.176	Keswick: Upper Borrowdale. [Sect.5.
On the way to Stonethwaite—in fact, just outside of
the Rosthwaite houses—the e}Te will be caught by a
very pretty bend of the stream lying immediately under
the road, from which a steep broken bank dips to the
water’s edge. A low hill on the other side of the road,
just opposite this point, wilf be found an excellent
point of view.
Seatoller.—Seatoller is a private residence, about
a mile and a half above Rosthwaite. The prettiest
walk to it, although a scrambling one, and only suit-
able to a dry day, is by a footpath turning left from
the lane opposite the Royal Oak. This leads to some
farms by the beck; crossing which, and turning to the
right, you find a rough path up the wooded hill behind
which Seatoller lies. The view of upper Borrowdale,
from the descent of this hill immediately above the
house, is one of the best that can be obtained.
At Seatoller, the road forks, the left-hand branch
following the Borrowdale Beck to Seathwaite and
Stockley Bridge, at the foot of the Sty Head Pass.
The summit-level of the latter, even if it is not wished
to cross it, will form a delightful excursion from Ros-
thwaite ; and the head of the valley, as far as Seathwaite
or Stockley, should be visited in any event. The Sty
Head Pass turns to the right at the bridge, and is a
well-marked bridle-road. The valley running straight
on leads to Scawfell Pike, Eskdale, and Great Langdale ;
see Routes Nos. 47 and 54. The black-lead mines are
on the right-hand side of upper Borrowdale, just beyond
the point where the car-road quits that side and crosses
the valley to Seathwaite Farm. A rough track leads
up to them, passing some yew trees of unknown an-
tiquity. Beyond the mines is a stream, which pours
over the hill above them in a fall of some beauty.
There is a still larger fall on the right of the Sty Head
Pass ;—a marked feature from every part of the upper
valley.Part 1.]
177
Keswick : Honister Crag.
The right-hand fork of the road at Seatoller runs
close by the house, and leads by a short lateral valley
to Honister Crag and Buttermere. It is available for
cars all the way, although the descent under the crag
is sufficiently rough. The crag itself is about 1,700
feet high, dropping to a sheer cliff to the head of the
Buttermere valley. It is one of the best-known fea-
tures in the district, and deserves its reputation. It is
of course only seen to real advantage from below ; but
some idea of it may be obtained by following the road
a short distance down on the Buttermere side. From
the summit-level of the pass, a road will be seen turning
on the left, and carried along the scarped face of the
cliff. This leads to some extensive slate-quarries.
There are also quarries on the opposite mountain,
Hindscarth ; and it is worth following the grass-track
leading up to these from the right-hand side of the
pass, in order to get the beautiful view of Buttermere
and Crummock Water which is there opened. It is
needless to add that, either on this or some other occa-
sion, the two lakes just mentioned should on all accounts
be visited. They are gems of the first order. A short
notice of their leading features and points of interest
will be found on a subsequent page. The ascent of
Great Gable is also best made from the summit of this
pass ; see Route 48. A climb even part of the way
may be made with advantage.
Should the tourist be unable to proceed as far as the
summit of the Honister Crag Pass, he should at least
follow the road above Seatoller House to the head of
the picturesque wooded glen by which it runs ; or,
better still, follow up the course of the stream
itself.
The above exhausts the main features of ltosthwaite
and Borrowdale ; but there are scores of other walks
and scrambles, which the tourist who spends a few
days on the spot will readily discover. These are
M178	Keswick: Vale of St. John's. [Sect. 5.
especially numerous and attractive in the neighbourhood
of the Grange.
Walk Round the Lake from Keswick.—The
principal points of interest on each side of Derwent-
water have been already noticed. The walk is perhaps
best taken Portinscale-way, following the path to the
Catbells ; see page 162. A pleasant variation to the
walks on the south shore of the lake may be made by
quitting the road at a point on the Grange side of the
mines which form a conspicuous object on this side of
the lake. Here a footpath ascends in zigzags to the
neck of land which unites the higher Catbell with the
Hindscarth chain, and, crossing it, dips on the other
side to the mines in the Yale of Newlands.
Yale oe St. John’s.—It is difficult to decide which
way St. John’s is best seen ; but probably the descend-
ing view will have the preference :—the background
formed by the rugged buttresses of Saddleback in this
view is entitled to the highest praise. The Grasmere
coach-road will of course be followed as far as the
Bridge-end cottages, about five miles from Keswick,
where the St. John’s beck is crossed by a bridge of
remarkable beauty. Opposite to the cottages, a field-
path over meadows leads into the country lane which
runs down the vale, cutting off a considerable angle.
This lane should then be followed, but only as far as
the first bridge over the beck. Here cross the latter,
and follow the rough track on the other side, from
which the views both of the Helvellyn chain and
Saddleback are far superior to what can be obtained
from the car-road on the other side. Towards the
bottom of the vale, this track crosses a shoulder of the
hill and joins the Penrith coach-road. Or the return
to Keswick may be made by following the vale to
Threlkeld, at the foot of Saddleback, where there is a
station. For the Castle Rock at the head of the vale,
see page 64. In August, 1749, the Yale of St. John’sPart 1.]
Keswick : Buttermere.
179
was deluged by a waterspout, similar in its effects to
that which is mentioned on page 182 as having broken
eleven years later over the Crummock Water moun-
tains. Some of the fragments of rock brought down
by the torrent thus created required ten horses to move
them. In this instance, the fall of water was preceded
by unusual murmurs in the air.
Excursion by Borrowdale to Buttermere, and
return by the Vale oe Newlands.—A waggonette
at moderate fares is despatched daily on this excursion
during the season, starting from the three leading
hotels in succession. It has also a competitor, which
is in private hands. The trip is highly to be recom-
mended.
The points on the route as far as Honister Crag,
between Seatoller in Borrowdale and Buttermere, have
already been described ; see pages 170 to 177. Below
the crag, the road passes Gatesgarth Farm. Here, the
eye will be caught by a singular depression in the
mountain chain on the opposite side of the valley.
This is Scarf Gap, forming a highly interesting pass to
Ennerdale and Wastwater ; see Route 62.
A short distance beyond Gatesgarth, the road strikes
the margin of the lake, but soon quits it again, running
behind the plantations of Hassness House, and con-
tinuing at some height above the water until it de-
scends to
Buttermere Village.—It will be seen from what
has been just said that some pause here is indispensable,
if the mere itself is to be properly seen. The excursion
cars accordingly allow a sufficient time for this, and in
fact for a visit, either by boat or on foot, to Scale
Force Waterfall, which is one of the most beautiful in
the district. The approach to it on foot is described
as the commencement of Route No. 60, which see. It
is very wet walking in some parts.
The village itself is on the most diminutive scale :
M 2180
Keswick; Buttermere.
[Sect. 5.
half-a-dozen houses ; two small inns ; and an extremely
tiny church, on a pretty rising ground just above the
houses. Of the lake, as well as of Crummock Water,
we have found occasion to speak in general terms
already ; see pages 2 and 177. And it is useless to
attempt any more detailed description. Yery faint
and distant indeed is the idea which even the most
skilfully-handled pencil can present of these scenes ; so
that the pen must hopelessly fail to do it. The visitor
who most deeply feels the loveliness of these two lakes
will find himself the least able to reproduce it in any
words which shall be intelligible to a reader, or be any-
thing but the most hackneyed expression of common-
places. It is a privilege to be allowed to look on
without the necessity of defining why, or what, you
admire, or even of realizing it to one’s own thoughts ;
in fact, the less the intellect is brought into requisition
the better. When a man stretches his length on the
miniature beach by the water’s edge, and delivers him-
self of the current Academic formula, “ How awfully
jolly,” you feel that he has exhausted all that need be
said or done in the matter. It should be added, that
this water’s edge may be reached over any of the
meadows. But Buttermere is best seen by following
Route 60 as far as the bridge on the opposite side, and
then, instead of turning to the right for Scale Force,
turning to the left and skirting the lake to its head.
There is also a near, and very pretty, walk from Butter-
mere village to the head of Crummock Water, for which
you follow the lane on the right of the Fish Inn.
Buttermere Lake is about a mile and a quarter long by
half a mile broad.
As the shadows begin to lengthen over the lake, the
cars “put to” for the return drive to Keswick, for
which they climb the steep pass of Buttermere Haws,
and descend on the Yale of Newdands. The latter has
been described, page 163. The mountain on the rightPart 1.]
Keswick : Scale Hill.
181
of “ tlie Haws,” and which encloses Buttermere on the
east, is Bobinson. The mountain chain on its west
margin is composed of Bed Pike—distinguishable by
the screes of that colour on its graceful cone—High
Stile, and High Crag. At the upper end of the lake is
the characteristic deep hollow, seamed by a fall of white
water, which makes this view of the lake a favourite
subject with artists. Above the fall are the low round-
headed summits, known as the Hay Stacks, with the
bold cliff of Honister Crag on their left. Looking
down the lake, the steeply-pitched line on the left of
Crummock Water is Melbreak, and the massive, square-
headed mountain opposite to it, Grasmoor ; its scarped
sides apparently belying its name. But there is a table-
land of good grazing on the top which redeems the
misnomer.
If wished, instead of returning to Keswick, the tour-
ist can proceed by the lower road from Buttermere to
Scale Hill, where there is a capital hotel. Scale
Hill lies at the foot of Crummock Water ; or rather,
some distance below it, about a mile from the water’s
edge. The latter is reached from the hotel by a charm-
ing carriage-drive through plantations; while a foot-
path, striking off from the latter on the left, shortly
after you enter the grounds, leads up to a point of bare
rock, commanding the best view of Crummock Water
which can be obtained on this side of the lake. But a
still better one' is found by crossing the valley below
the hotel to Scale Hill Church, and then proceeding
for some distance in the direction of Melbreak as
directed in Boute 61. See the notice of the views from
these points at the end of Boute 61. Crummock
Water is about four miles long. Its present name is a
corruption of the more euphonious Cromack Water,
which was still in use at the beginning of the century.
It should be added that the view from Scale Hill,
and specifically from the bow-windowed sitting-room of
m 3182
Keswick: Vale of Lorton.
[Sect. 5.
the hotel, down the Yale of Lorton, is also one of great
beauty, although of course not presenting the moun-
tainous features of the view up the lake. Cockermouth
spire is seen a few miles down the valley. In the early
autumn, in fact, from the latter end of August, the
colouring on the hills on each side of this valley will
be admired for its warm orange tint. The mountain
on the same side of the hotel as Grasmoor, but divided
from it by a deeply-indented ravine, is Whiteside. The
propriety of its being so called will be at once seen by
any one who follows the fine pass which leads by this
defile from Scale Hill to Keswick ; see the pass de-
scribed, in reverse, Route No. 58. Grasmoor can
easily be ascended from Scale Hill by turning to the
right on the summit-level of this pass, and proceeding
as in Route 49 from the same point. The best ascent
of Whiteside is to follow the road from Scale Hill to
Keswick to the point where it rises to the open ground
at the foot of the Whiteside chain, and then turn to
the right, and climb the nearest grass spur projecting
from the mountain on this side. From the top, there
is a beautiful “ridge-walk,” descending on the summit-
level of the pass just described from Scale Hill to Kes-
wick ; and from this point, the return may be made to
Scale Hill as directed in Route 58. The views of the
Scotch coast from this “ridge-walk” are often singu-
larly happy. In September, 1760, at midnight, the
second of the two waterspouts traditionally recorded
in the district broke over these mountains, descending
the ravine between Whiteside and Grasmoor in a body
of Water 300 feet wide by 15 or 16 feet deep.
Ascents, erom Keswick or Portinscale, oe
Skiddaw, Saddleback, TIelyellyn, Scaweell Pike,
Great Gable, and Grasmoor.—See the subsequent
Pedestrian Routes, Nos. 43 to 49.Part 2.] Car. Roads : Scale Hill, Cochermouth.	183
PART II.
LIST OF CARRIAGE, CAR, AND OTHER ROADS, NOT GIYEN IN
THE FOLLOWING PEDESTRIAN ROUTES.
(a)	Keswick to Penrith (railway). For Penrith,
see page 127.
(b)	Keswick, by Threlkeld and Matterdale, to
Ullswater (coach-road). The only point requiring
notice in this is the beautiful descent upon Ullswater ;
see page 117. The rest of the road is uninteresting ;
and as it is much longer, the pedestrian should sub-
stitute for it Routes 56 or 57, by the latter of which
the view just noticed is obtained with equal advantage.
(c)	Keswick to Grasmere and Ambleside (coach-
road). Described, in reverse, pages 61 to 65. As
regards the substitution recommended to be made for
the Thirlmere portion of this road, see Route No. 50.
(d)	Keswick, by Borrowdale and Honister Crag, to
Buttermere and Scale Hill. Described above,
page 179, and references.
(e)	Keswick, by Yale of Newlands, to Buttermere
and Scale Hill. The Yale of Newlands is described
on page 163. For Buttermere and Scale Hill, see
pages 179 to 182.
{J} Keswick, by Braithwaite and Whinlatter, to
Scale Hill and Buttermere. This is a delightful
walk, although perhaps better taken the reverse way,
owing to the great beauty of the descent upon the
Yale of Keswick. There is nothing to require par-
ticular notice on the road. For Buttermere and Scale
Hill, see pages 179 to 182.
(y) Keswick to Cockermouth, by Lake Bassen-
thwaite. Railway.
(li) Keswick to Cockermouth, by Braithwaite,
Whinlatter, and the Yale of Lorton. This is the same184	Carriage Roads : Ennerdale. [Sect. 5.
as the Scale Hill road (f) as far as the descent into
the Yale of Lorton, where the latter branches off on
the left, through a picturesque ravine. The Cocker-
mouth road just below this point has also some good
features ; and the walk down the Yale of Lorton is
pleasing, with capital back views of the Buttermere
and Crummock Water mountain groups. Cockermouth
was Wordsworth’s birth-place. The view from the
bridge over the Derwent, with Cockermouth Castle on
its east bank, is one of much beauty.
(i) Buttermere (or Scale Hill) to Keswick :
by Honister Crag and Borrowdale ; by Yale of New-
lands ; by Whinlatter and Braithwaite. See above,
(cl), (e), and (/).
(Jc) Buttermere (or Scale Hill) to Ennerdale
Lake, by Lovreswater and Lamplugh. Loweswrater is
very pleasing, and deserves a visit. There is not much
else on the road, but Ennerdale Lake has points of
great beauty ; and the walk to the head of the valley
is one which the tourist should on no account omit.
Great Gable may be ascended without difficulty from
the extreme head of the valley, following up the small
watercourse in the right-hand corner of the vale-head,
between Great Gable, and its nearest neighbour on the
left, Green Gable. Above this stream are some notice-
able “screes” descending between the two mountains ;
on reaching which, you proceed as in Route 48 from
the same point. See the latter portion of that route.
The Pillar is best ascended from the summit-level of
the Black Sail Pass. See Route 62, towards the
middle. There is a small inn (the Anglers’) on the
north shore of Ennerdale Lake. The mountain passes
in connection with Ennerdale are given in the Pedes-
trian Routes Nos. 60, 64, and 68.
(1) Ennerdale Lake to Scale Hill (or Butter-
mere), by Lamplugh and Loweswater. See (&),just
above.Part 2.] Carriage Boads : Calder Alley. 185
(m) Ennerdale Lake to Strands and Wast-
tvater, by Ennerdale Bridge and Calder Abbey. At
Ennerdale Bridge you quit the turnpike road, and fol-
low a rough track, just practicable for cars, which leads
across the range of low moor into which the Ennerdale
mountains sink on the west, descending by the valley
of the Calder to Calder Bridge. This moor is called
Cold Fell. At Calder Bridge there are two good inns.
The ruins of the Cistercian Abbey, about a mile above
the village, will of course be visited. They are not
large, but have considerable beauty ; and the approach
to them by the moss-grown rocks and sparkling water
of the Calder, greatly enhances their charm. For
Strands and Wastwater, see Section 6. Gosforth lies
on the road between Calder Bridge and Strands, about
four miles from the latter place. From the rising
ground above Gosforth, there is an excellent view of
Black Combe ; see page 105.
PART III.
PEDESTKIAN routes continued.
ROUTE XLIII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent oe Skiddaw erom Keswick (a).—From
the Railway Station (l), take the new road through a
(a)	For the ascents from Portinscale see the next route, No. 44.
(b)	Even i: staying in the town, it is shortest to return to the
station in the first instance. Should this be attended with any
difficulty, the Cockermouth road must be followed to the bottom
of the town, where the Greta Bridge is crossed. A short distance
beyond this is a turnpike; and, on the other side of this, two
roads turn off on the right, by a school-house. Take the nearest
and broadest of these, and then proceed as in Route 44, No. 1,
which joins the route above given at the cart-road leading to
Spooney Green Farm. See above.186
Ped. Route, No. 43 : Skiddaiv.
[Sect. 5.
gate just on the left of the departure-shed, on the side
opposite to Keswick and the station-house. This leads,
a short distance on, into a lane running parallel with
the line. Here turn to the left; and then (at the next
turning) to the right, following a cart-road which leads
up to Spooney Green farm-house. The farm stands
among trees, and it requires close looking to distin-
guish it at the point where this cart-road quits the
lane.
Above the farm, the track is continued in the same
direction as before by a green lane, and afterwards, in
the field above, by a footpath. Following this, you
come into a well-made bridle-road which winds round
the side of “ Latrigg.” Latrigg, it should be pre-
mised, is the wooded hill which projects in advance of
Skiddaw on its right, and forms an useful stepping-
stone, if wTe may so call it, for the ascent of that moun-
tain. The winding road just referred to is first carried
round behind Latrigg, into its far corner. It then
crosses the neck of land which unites Latrigg with
Skiddaw ; and then, finally, ascends the broad shoulder
of the latter which rises immediately above Latrigg,
and on which, from the winding road just mentioned,
you readily distinguish a fence running vertically down
it, with a white hut near its centre part.
There is no difficulty in the winding road above
referred to until it reaches a point where it crosses a
ravine on the left, by the side of which it has been
ascending from the point where you joined it from
Spooney Green. All turnings up on Latrigg to the
right will of course be disregarded ; and a green track,
dipping to, and crossing, the ravine, at a point below
that where the winding road itself crosses it, is also a
pitfall against which it is necessary to guard.
After crossing this ravine, the winding road joins
another road which for some time past you have seen
running up opposite to you on the other side of thePart 3.]
Ped. Route, No. 43 : STciddaiv.
187
ravine: and here some little attention is required.
Follow the road you have thus joined for a few yards,
for which distance, as will be seen, you are walking
directly away from Skiddaw. You are then crossed by
a wall with a gate. Go through this gate—not, ob-
serve, through the gate in another wall, on your left
hand ;—and then turn left, at a right angle, and keep
along by the side of the cross wall through which you
have passed, and which bears, at first, in the direction
of Saddleback ; and then, soon afterwards, makes a
bend, and bears due for Skiddaw. At the point where
it makes this bend, and where the wall is replaced by a
wooden fence, there is a grass-track on the right, highly
tempting, but which eventually leads nowhere. Avoid-
ing this, and still keeping by the side of th'e fence,
there is no difficulty to the white hut. About half
way up the steep ascent to the latter, the path crosses
from the right-hand side of the wall to the left.
Above the hut, follow the line of the fence for a few
yards, and then the track forks, the right-hand branch
continuing by the side of the fence. Take that to the
left, up the open shoulder of the hill, and follow it for
some distance, observing one or two zigzags which it
makes in this part. Soon afterwards, the track ceases,
at a point where it is joined from behind, on the left-
hand side, by a straight grass road, which afterwards
continues in the same straight line on your right, and
ultimately strikes the fence you have quitted. This
path is to be carefully eschewed. Instead of following
it, keep up over the shoulder in the direction you have
been previously ascending, and which will be found
further marked by some pieces of wood laid on the
ground at intervals. You then come in sight of two
grass knolls, each with a cairn upon it;—not the sum-
mit, although they look as if they ought to be. Make
for the right-hand base of the nearest knoll. The
track re-appears at its foot, and the real summit is also188 Ped. Route, No. 44 : Skiddaw.	[Sect. 5.
there seen ;—it is the nearer of the two in which the
high ridge opened from this point terminates, and is
also marked by a cairn.
The track is now amply marked to the top, first
keeping nearly on a level, and then mounting again
steeply over the near end of the high ridge just referred
to. The merit of the view from the top, as distin-
guished from those of Derwentwater and the Yale of
Keswick which have lightened the toil of the ascent,
depends mainly upon whether the Scotch coast is well
seen. When this is the case, and the Solway Frith
and mountain summits on its opposite shore become
effective parts of the view, it is exceedingly beautiful.
The highest of the Scotch mountains is Criffel. Car-
lisle and its cathedral are also distinguishable on a
clear day. Derwentwater is out of sight, and only a
small portion of Bassenthwaite visible, Cockermouth
being immediately over the latter.
Skiddaw summit has a reputation, which is probably
well earned, for being cold and bleak beyond the
average lot of mountains.
ROUTE XLIV.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascents oe Skiddaw from Portinscale. — In
lieu of the ascent via, Keswick, page 185, any of the
four following may be advantageously taken. The two
first are the most beaten routes, their difference, as be-
tween themselves, being that No. 1 is rather the
shorter, while No. 2, after a twenty-four hours’ rain, is
rather the drier. No. 3 is the most direct, and pro-
portionably the steepest, of all the four routes. No. 4
is easy, interesting, and varied, opening some capital
points in the otherwise unseen Bassenthwaite, and
having the further merit of reserving for the descent
the views of the vale of Keswick and DerwentwaterPart 3.]
Ped. Route, No. 44: Slciddaiv.
189
which form the chief attraction of Skidclaw under
ordinary circumstances. This fourth route, however,
is considerably longer than the others, although less so
than it would seem on first impressions.
No. 1.—Instead of taking the usual fieldpath from
Portinscale to Keswick, keep along the high road, and
follow it to the school-house near the entrance of the
town, just short of the turnpike. Here, on the left, are
two turnings, meeting at the school-house; the left-
hand of the two runs back to Crosthwaite Church.
Take the right-hand, and broader, road, and follow it
to the first turning on the right, just beyond a farm-
house a little off the road on that side. This right-
hand turn leads under a railway arch ; passing which,
the first turn on the left is the cart-road to Spooney
Green Farm described in Route 43, page 186. From
this point, proceed as in that route.
No. 2.—Take the narrow lane on the other side of
Portinscale Bridge which leads out of the Keswick
road to Crosthwaite Church. After passing the latter,
instead of following the lane, which bears round the
church to the left, take the footpath straight on through
a gate, leading up a slight ascent. On the top of this,
the main path bears away to the right, for Keswick ;
but the wicket fronting you continues the footpath in
the previous direction, passing under a railway arch,
and across two meadows, when it divides. Here take
the path in front, leading up a slight incline to the
carriage-road. Crossing this, you descend hy a small
plantation to a farm-road, which brings you out in
front of Ormathwaite, an old-fashioned but attractive-
looking white house. Take the road to the right,
leading through the farm-buildings attached to the
house, and into a lane, where turn to the left, up ^
rising ground. It will be seen that you thus make an
acute angle with the farm-road previously followed ;
but there is no help for this, and the loss of ground190 Red. Route, No. 44 : Skiddaw. [Sect. 5.
involved is not very great. After passing on the right
the shrubberies of Underscar, a large modern house
with a tower, you join a cross-road in front of a farm-
house with two clipped yews. Take the right-hand
turn here, and follow this road, which passes on the
upper side of Underscar House, and then rises steeply
by the side of a wooded ravine, near the top of which
it is joined by a road across the ravine, through a gate.
By referring to Route 43, page 186, it will be seen that
this latter is the road round Latrigg there described ;
and the ascent will thenceforth be identical with No.
43 from the same point.
1Vo. 3.—For this ascent, observe the shoulder of
Skiddaw which immediately fronts you on Portinscale
Bridge, lying between the Millbeck and Applethwaite
ravines of the mountain described on page 166, the
Applethwaite ravine being the one on the right, and
the Millbeck the deep central ravine on the left. This
shoulder is further marked, if required, by a square
plantation of firs near its lower extremity ; on the
right of these a road is seen ascending in zigzags, which
is not the track to be taken.
The directions for this ascent are as follows :—Pro-
ceed as in No. 2 of this route, page 189, as far as the
gate by which the farm-road there mentioned enters
the last field in front of Ormathwaite House. Here,
turn to the left, and follow a grass-road by the hedge
to Applethwaite, the hamlet lying under the right-hand
ravine of Skiddaw noticed just above. Keep up
through the hamlet by the side of the stream, taking
care to keep the latter on your right hand, until a
cross-road is reached, running close under the base of
Skiddaw to Millbeck. Here, fronting you, is another
road which continues by the side of the stream, past a
quarry and stone barn ; and at the commencement of
this road is a scrambling path turning out of it on the
left, up an ascent, and crossing a rough stile in thePart 3.]
Ped. Route, No. 44 : Skiddaw.
191
hedge to a steep rising ground above, covered with
gorse. Follow this ; and at the top of the first rise,
where the gorse ceases and the path becomes confused
with cattle-tracks, make for the hedge on your left, and
ascend close alongside of it to its upper extremity,
where it is crossed by another fence at right angles.
A gate in the latter, a short distance on your right,
leads out on the open shoulder of the mountain pre-
viously observed from Portinscale. Go through this
gate, and turn at first left from it, until you have
brought the line of the fence by the side of which you
have been ascending immediately behind you ; then
climb the shoulder in this line, or as near to it as
human infirmity will permit on a surface which for
slipperiness and steepness might be 2,000 feet of thatch.
By looking back to the “ guiding-wall ” from time to
time, the direction is easily verified ; moreover, there
are four way-marks en route, which are a further assist-
ance, if necessary. The first of these is a post stuck in
some rushy ground between two patches of heather,
with a tap of tolerable water just above it. The
second, on the summit of the rise immediately above
the post, is a stone placed upright in the ground, with
another flat one on its right. The third way-mark, on
the next rise, consists of a family party of four small
rocks, the uppermost leaning forward over the hill ;
and another upright stone, at no great distance above
the rocks, forms the last of these guides.
On reaching this last stone, you have above you, on
your left, the grass knoll in which the shoulder you
have been ascending culminates. Be careful not to get
up on this knoll, which is lost labour, but make for a
point rather below its right-hand base, and wind round
the latter. A rough track is here found in the grass,
running nearly on a level, which will be duly appre-
ciated after the severity of the previous climb. Follow
this path, until you look over to the reverse, or north,192
Ped. Route, No. 44 : S/ciddaiv.
[Sect. 5.
side of the mountain ; which, instead of descending
abruptly, like the Keswick side, breaks into a wild
tract of moorland, intersected by numerous valleys.
At this point, you strike the well-beaten poney-road of
the Keswick ascent, which is then followed without
difficulty to the summit. See page 188.
JVo. 4.—This ascent is made by following the Der-
went to Lake Bassenthwaite, and then ascending Skid-
daw from the west. To understand this, it should be
observed that the limb of Skiddaw which overhangs
Lake Bassenthwaite, and has the “Skiddaw Dod ”
projecting in front of it, is not sent off from the sum-
mit, but from a lower point to the east of the latter.
The summit sends off two western limbs. One is on
the north-west, with which we are not here concerned.
The other runs south-west, and inclines, at its lower
end, towards the lower slopes of the Bassenthwaite
limb ; the valley by which they are separated contract-
ing as it descends, and ultimately discharging its stream
in a rocky defile between these two ridges.
It will be seen, therefore, that by crossing the de-
pressed end of the Bassenthwaite limb, then dipping
into the valley just mentioned, and then ascending the
ridge above it on the other side, the Skiddaw summit
will be reached without difficulty, and with much less
increase of distance than might be supposed, owing to
the summit itself lying so far back to the west. The
detail of this ascent is as follows :—
At Portinscale Bridge, take the fieldpath along the
left bank of the Derwent, crossing the stile which will
be seen just short of the bridge, on the Portinscale
side. A few fields on, the Howe Farm will be seen
above you, on a rising ground on the left. Here the
path quits the bank of the river for a short distance,
and crosses a kind of common, where it is only faintly
marked, to the hedge on the left, a stile in which leads
into some fields. After following these for a shortPart s.] Fed. Route, No. 44: Bassenthwaite. 193
distance, the path returns to the bank of the stream,
and continues without difficulty until a bridge is reached
just short of Lake Bassenthwaite, two others having
been passed en route. Crossing this bridge, a lane
leads up into the main road, which follow, passing first
some farms, and then the grounds of Mire House. The
main road is to be kept until you are quite past the
latter. Here, on the left, you have a lane turning out
of the road, in the direction of the lake, and leading
ultimately to Scarness ;—a sandy point, fringed with
trees, which projects into Bassenthwaite, and forms
one of its most beautiful features. On the right side
of the main road, immediately opposite this turning, is
a plantation ; and, just beyond the latter, and on the
same side, a grass road enters the field above through
a gate, and then slants leftwards up the rising ground
of the field to another belt of trees. Follow this grass-
road, which crosses the belt, and then leads up by a
gate on to the open shoulder of mountain forming the
lower extremity of the Bassenthwaite limb of Skiddaw
above referred to. Here the road is joined by a wall,
and runs alongside of it for some distance, when tbe
wall bends away to the left, with some sheep-tracks
continuing by it. The grass-road, it will be seen, con-
tinues its previous direction for some distance further,
and then makes a sharp angle to the right, leading up
to a conical peak on the Bassenthwaite limb. Do not
follow the road in this angle, but quit it at the apex,
and continue the previous direction to the top of the
shoulder you are on, where some rocks will be seen
cropping out of the grass. Just behind these, are
some very fine detached blocks, well meriting a visit
for their own sake. Winding among these, you reach
the further edge of the shoulder, and look over into the
valley above referred to as forming the separation be-
tween the Bassenthwaite ridge of Skiddaw and the
south-western ridge descending from its summit. A
N104	Ped. Route, No, 44: Skiddaw. [Sect. 5.
cart-road zigzags down to the stream in this valley ;
descending to which, and placing yourself by the edge
of the stream at the point where the cart-road strikes
the latter, observe the ground in front, taking care to
look across the stream in the same direction as the last
zigzag of the cart-road. It will be seen that imme-
diately before you is an easy slope, rising into a grass
hill of no great height, with rock cropping out of it.
Looking above this, on its left, you see Skiddaw sum-
mit ; an elongated ridge, slightly rounded on top, and
with steep sides of shale and debris. The highest
point is marked by a cairn.
To reach the summit, ascend the grass hill just men-
tioned, from the top of which you open another point,
not visible from the stream below ; namely, a steep
conical hill, also with a cairn upon it, the Skiddaw
cairn being still visible to the left of the latter. This
rocky hill with the cairn is to be ascended, for which
you first have to dip slightly, and then cross, en route,
a succession of knolls, of no great height. The ascent
of the hill itself is pretty steep ; at first over grass and
rock, and then over slate debris, the cairn upon it being
out of sight almost until you reach it.
On reaching this cairn, you have above you the
upper ridge of Skiddaw already noticed, although the
summit itself is no longer visible here. There is no
difficulty, however, in reaching it, by ascending the
ridge above you with your back to the cairn just
passed, and keeping the extremity of Scarness, the
wooded point in Bassenthwaite referred to on page 193,
in a line immediately behind it; looking back now and
then to verify the direction.
ROUTE XLY.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent or Saddleback erom Keswick.—This is
a delightful walk, and the view from the summit isPart 3.] Ped. Koute, No. 45: SacldlelacJc. 195
finer in some respects than Skiddaw. Follow the Pen-
rith road to the turnpike ; then cross the Greta by the
bridge just beyond it, and, on the rise above, take the
first turning to the right, past Greta Bank House (a).
The wooded lane into which this leads skirts under
Latrigg, running parallel with the Greta, and present-
ing delightful views. There is no difficulty for about
two miles; but there the road forks, opposite one of
the railway bridges over the Greta. At this point,
take the left-hand road, up an ascent; the right-hand
fork leads into a farm-road continuing to Threlkeld.
After a short further rise, you come out on a corner
overlooking a lateral stream, which flows between Skid-
daw and Saddleback into the Greta, and is known as
the Glenderaterra. Saddleback is here immediately in
front of you. At this corner, first take the turn to
the right, in the direction of Helvellyn, and then,
immediately afterwards, the sharp turn to the left,
which brings you down to the Glenderaterra, over which
there is a footbridge. Crossing over this, the road
turns left, and rises to a white farm under Saddleback,
which will have been seen for some time previously.
You then ascend to the right, above the farm, and soon
afterwards reach a road running parallel with the Glen-
deraterra above mentioned. Immediately fronting you
here is a fieldpath, entered by a gate, and running by
the side of a small brook. Follow this path, which
ascends steeply, with a slight bend to the left, and
passes through two more gates. Above the second of
these, is a field with a wall fronting you, and another
running down from it on your left, at right angles.
There is a rough step-stile over the wall in front, a
(a) If coming from the station, leave the latter as in Route 43,
but instead of left, turn right on reaching the cross lane mentioned
on page 186. This leads past a farm-house on the left; after
which, the left-hand turning leads to Greta Bank, from which pro-
ceed as above.196 Ped. Route, No. 46 : Saddleback. [Sect. 5.
little to the right of its junction with the intersecting
wall; and there is also a gate, if required, a good deal
more to the right. Cross this style, and you are then
on the open shoulder of Saddleback, which is to be
ascended in the line of the intersecting wall, keeping it
behind you, and looking back from time to time to
verify the direction. All tracks seen en route should
be disregarded. After crossing a hollow, a small pla-
teau, or second shoulder, has to be ascended, in the
same direction as before, the intersecting wall being
still visible behind you. On completing this further
ascent, the hard work is over, although the actual sum-
mit is still at some distance on. By inclining rather
to the right from the top of this second shoulder, you
strike the cliff-line of the mountain, which is to be
followed until you reach the cairn which marks the
summit.
The descent is best made to Threlkeld, which will be
seen immediately under the highest point of the moun-
tain, and where there is a station of the Keswick and
Penrith Railway. On the opposite, or north-east, side
of the mountain lie two legendary tarns. Scales, or
Threlkeld Tarn, is the nearest, and enjoys a reputation
for reflecting the stars at noonday. Bowscale Tarn,
which lies about three miles further on in the same
direction, is the abode of two immortal trout. Holy-
well, in Wales, had a similar trout until a few years
since, when the fish was killed by a man washing a
sore leg in the spring. The indignity was probably
too much for its system.
Saddleback itself is properly Blencathara ; but the
earlier name is now unhappily disused. Glaramara
still survives the ill chance which in most instances
has' converted the grand old Cumbrian tongue into
such substitutes as Saddleback,* Pike o’Stickling, and
Butter.Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 46 : Helvellyn.
197
ROUTE XLYI.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent of Helyellyn from Keswick. — The
Grasmere coach-road should be followed to a point just
short of the inn and church at Wythburn :—see the
map. A few yards on the Keswick side of the hamlet
is a bridge over a small stream, with a second bridge
just beyond, nearer to the hamlet. The foot-track for
Helvellyn quits the coach-road by a gate between these
two bridges. The track up the mountain on the
Wythburn side of the second bridge is the poney-road,
which is afterwards seen ascending the cliff on the right
in a series of long zigzags.
Following the foot-track, which is rather faintly
marked, you continue for some distance on a tongue of
nearly level ground between the two streams. When
they diverge, which they do on reaching the steep
shoulder of the mountain above this tongue, follow the
stream on the left, climbing the shoulder at some height
above it, and keeping it on your left hand. About a
third of the way up, a stile is crossed in a stone fence.
Above this, the path nearly ceases, although as far as
the top of the shoulder its zigzags may be traced in the
grass.
On reaching the top of this shoulder, you have in
front of you a plateau of bog with a rocky slope beyond
it, which, in fact, is the reverse of the main cliff-line of
the mountain, the actual summit lying at some distance
on the left. Cross over to this slope of rock, and round
under it on the left ; thus, as it will be seen, rounding
into the upper basin of the stream by which you have
been previously ascending, and which issues from a
spring known as Brownrigg’s Well, a few hundred
yards below the summit. Care should be taken, how-
ever, not to get down into the hollow of this basin, but
to round the slopes of rock with a gradual ascent, so as
n 3198 Ped. Route, No. 47 : Scawfell Pike. [Scot. 5.
to be constantly raising tbe level. This eventually
leads you to the edge of the cliff-line, from which you
look over to Ullswater and the Yorkshire hills. At
this point, you are joined from behind by the poney-
road from Wythburn, as well as by that from Grasmere,
and continue by this without difficulty, following tbe
cliff-line to the summit. The latter is some distance
in advance, on the left, and is marked by a cairn.
If it is wished to descend to Ullswater, proceed as
described on page 72. If the descent is to be made
to Grasmere, proceed as directed in Route 29, ad fin.
See page 130.
ROUTE XLYII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent oe Scawfell Pike from Keswick (or
PORTINSCALE) AND BoRROWDALE ; WITH DESCENT TO
Langdale or Wastdale.—From Keswick take the
left side of the lake, by Lodore, the Grange, Rosthwaite,
and Seatoller, to Seathwaite, the highest farm in Bor-
rowdale. From Portinscale, the right side of the lake
will of course be taken (a), joining the above at the
Grange.
At Seathwaite, the car-road ceases ; but a bridle-road
continues up the valley, leading to the Sty Head Pass.
There is no difficulty in this, as far as Stockley Bridge,
a short mile above Seathwaite, where the valley forks.
The right-hand branch, the stream of which descends
by rather a fine fall, forms the Sty Head route ; and
(a) It looks tempting, instead of making the round by tbe
Grange and Rostli waite, to make for Seatoller direct, keeping on
the right of tbe Castle Hill; and for some purposes this is best:
see Route 48. For the present walk, however, this is not to be
recommended. It would probably lose time, and would be, in any
case, an exhausting beginning to a somewhat long day.
There is a footpath to Seathwaite, through a gate on the left of
the bridge by which the car-road crosses the valley to Seatoller.
But it does not save much.Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 47 : StocJcley Bridge. 199
the bridle-road, after crossing the bridge, will be seen
ascending this branch of the valley by zigzags to a
point above the fall. The left-hand valley is the route
for Scawfell Pike (b) ; and for this ascent it is desirable
to observe carefully the points in the valley before
quitting the bridge. They will be seen to be as
follows :—
The stream which the bridge crosses, at least the
portion of it thence visible, runs up to a precipitous
mountain, forming a continuation of Glaramara, and
known as Allen Crag. On its right side, the upper
cliff of Allen Crag descends, not very steeply, on a
nearly level grass ridge ; which soon becomes capped
with rock, then dips, and then rises into a conical point
of some height. The “top of Esk House,” hereinafter
referred to, lies behind this ridge ; and “ Great End,”
the northern base-of the Scawfell range, is on its right
—both out of sight from the bridge.
The point to be made for is that where Allen Crag
descends upon the grass ridge above mentioned; i.e.,
the left-hand corner of the latter. By looking carefully,
the grooved rock channel of a stream will be seen slant-
ing up to this corner ; and, on reaching the sheep-fold
presently mentioned, the point is seen further marked
by a low pyramidal rock. To reach this point, cross
the bridge and go through the gate ; and then, quitting
the Sty Head road, turn left by the side of the wall.
There is a rough path, which quits the wall soon after,
at a point where there is a sheep-fold on the left, and
then rises to some little height above the stream, and
continues by a gate in a cross wall to a second sheep-
fold. Above the latter, the path crosses a grass knoll
and then dips to an abandoned mining hut, just under
another chain of knoll, with a large scar on its nearest
(b) The poney-road goes by Sty Head, and then returns to Esk
House. It is far longer, and has nothing special to recommend it
to pedestrians.200
Ped. Route, No. 47 : Allen Crag.	[Sect. 5.
left-end. Just below the hut, is the junction of the
two main streams of the valley, the left-hand branch
(as you face it) descending from Allen Crag, as pre-
viously noticed ; and the right-hand, and main, stream
coming down from Great End, which here comes in
sight. Cross this main stream to the hut, where the
Allen Crag stream flows through a picturesque chasm
on the left. The path ceases here ; but ascend the
knoll above you; taking notice that there is a similar
one, not to be confused with it, on the other side of the
stream. On reaching the top of the knoll, you have,
immediately fronting you, a grass ridge — not the
“ guiding ridge ” observed from the bridge, but a lower
one of similar character — with a rocky height on the
left descending upon it. The main branch of the Allen
Crag stream, which has been on your left in ascending
the knoll, runs up to the corner whore the rock meets
the grass ridge. Make for this corner, keeping the
stream still close on the left hand. On reaching it, the
“ guiding ridge ” comes in sight, at no great height
above you, with Allen Crag descending upon its left as
previously noticed ; the ridge looks shorter than it did
from Stockley Bridge, but the pyramidal rock in the
corner clearly defines it.
Ascend to this pyramidal rock, keeping at the foot of
the rocky ground on the left, between it and the bog.
Erom the top of the rock, you have below you, on the
right, the deep channelled stream observed from the
bridge ;—over it, Sprinkling Tarn is now seen, with
Great Gable above it, the Sty Head Pass lying between
the two out of sight. In front, looking in the same
direction as you have been ascending, is the rocky cliff
of Allen Crag, now immediately above you. Ascend to
the base of this, and skirt round it, still keeping close
to the masses of debris by which the crag is succeeded,
between them and the bog : the ascent in this part is
very gradual. In doing this, you soon bring in frontPart 3.] Ped. Route, No. 47 : Rsh Rouse.
201
of you a chain of three low hillocks, each with a pile of
stones on it, running from the Allen Crag debris to the
moss-head of the stream which is now seen descending
between you and G-reat End to Sty Head, the path to
the latter being clearly marked on its left bank. Above
the three hillocks, is the mountain Hanging Knot ;
and, connecting this with Great End, is a long grass
ridge, called the “ top of Esk House.” Make for the
leftmost of the three hillocks, from which you open the
hollow in which Great Langdale lies : the views in this
direction, and, in fact, on every side of you, are magni-
ficent. For the purpose of future reference, it should
he noticed that this point forms the divergence of the
Great Lanqdale and Grasmere route, No. 54,
which continues in the direction of the hollow just
mentioned. It also forms the junction of the Gras-
mere and Great Langdale ascent oe Scawfell
Pike, Route No. 24, which has ascended from the same
hollow to the “three hillocks,” or rather to a pile of
stones a little to the south of them, nearer to the “ top
of Esk House.” See page 94.
The route for the Pike lies over this Esk House top,
but before starting for it, observe the mountain which
slants up leftwards from Esk House, at the point where
the mass of Great End (see just above,) sinks
down upon it. This mountain is not Scawfell Pike,
but the track to the latter runs over its lower end,
where two rocky projections will be seen, the upper-
most broken rock, and the one below an entire mass.
To reach these rocks, cross in the first instance from
the leftmost of the three hillocks, on which we have
been standing, to a point about the centre of the “ Esk
House” grass ridge just described. From this point,
you look down into the hollow of Upper Eskdale (a).
(a) The descent into Eskdale may be made without difficulty, if
wished, from this point. And by following the stream, with the
Scawfell Crags close above you on the right, you join the Hard
Knot road to Bout and Stanley Ghyll. See page 57.202 Ped. Route, No. 47 : Scawfell PiJce. [Soc. 5.
Do not, however, dip towards the latter, but keep up
to the right over the Esk House ridge, making for the
rocky debris at the foot of Great End. On reaching
the latter, a fairly-marked path, with guiding stones,
begins and continues to the Pike : it will be seen in
the first instance ascending the green slope under the
lowermost of the two rocky projections just mentioned.
It then bends left, and ascends by the side of this rock
to a grass plateau, above which it crosses to the upper-
most projection ;—a chaos of broken rock, but with the
track well marked by guiding-stones. This is to be
ascended, keeping, near the top, a little on one side of
its highest point. A further grass plateau is then
reached, from which “ the Pike ” comes in sight, with
its lofty cairn. There is no further difficulty, beyond
the physical one of crossing the huge blocks of stone
over which the ascent has to be made. The path
crosses the last-mentioned plateau about its centre;
then turns right, and makes an aggravating dip, com-
pensated, indeed, by a superb peep down into Wastdale ;
then rises to a point rather on the left of the highest
point of the debris-strewn hill between you and the
Pike—observe the guiding-stones here,—and then dips
again to a narrow neck, from which you finally ascend
the Pike itself. The view from the summit is not equal
to that from Snowdon :—few views are. But it has
some noble features, among which Great Gable and the
other members of the chain on the opposite side of
Wastdale occupy a prominent place. Snowdon itself
is visible, on very clear days indeed.
If it is not wished to return to Keswick or Ros-
thwaite, the descent from the summit may be made as
follows :—
(1) To descend to Lang dale or Grasmere.—For this
purpose, return to the “three hillocks on Esk House,”
and then proceed as described in Route 54 from the
same point.Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 47 : Lingmell. 203
(2) To descend to Wastdale.—From the cairn on the
Pike, looking immediately over the stake of wood on
its west side, is seen a rocky hump of mountain project-
ing, of course at a lower elevation, from the Scawfell
range. This is Lingmell ; and the descent is eventually
made down its lower slopes, although in the first in-
stance the route, which is sufficiently marked by guid-
ing-stones, bears away to the left of the top of Ling-
mell ; in fact, after you have descended some little
distance from the cairn, this leftward “variation” is
considerable, leading almost due for Wastwater. Ob-
serve the guiding-stones carefully, however, and it will
be found that, after bearing thus to the left for some
time, the direction changes again, and makes now for
the wall which is seen slanting across Lingmell; soon
after which, it turns still more to the right, bearing due
for Sty Head Tarn. This leads you past some ridges
of rock on your left; and you have then, in front, a
grass slope of no great steepness, descending into the
hollow between you and Lingmell, the summit of which
is here just opposite you. The track ceases here ; but
descend into this hollow, not bearing straight across
it, but making for the foot of the debris which descends
from the left, and lower, end of Lingmell. On reaching
this point, skirt round at the foot of the debris, and you
soon come to the wall again, which has crossed over
the left end of Lingmell meanwhile. Cross the wall,
and keep for a short distance in the previous direction,
and you then come to the edge of the steep side of
Lingmell, with Kirk Fell, the mountain on the left of
Great Gable, rising immediately in front of you. De-
scend as if making this, and you soon see below you a
bridge which crosses the stream to Wastdale Head, and
can shape your course accordingly. The descent is
neither steep nor stony enough to create any serious
difficulty, and it is much better than taking a long
round.204
Ped. Route, No. 48: Great Gable. [Sec.5.
The farm-houses of the two Ritsons’ at Wastdale
Head accommodate travellers ; the lower (William
Ritson’s) has a license.
ROUTE XLYIII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent of Great Gable from Keswick (or
Portinscale), Rosthwaite in Borrowdale, or
Buttermere (a).—If coming from Keswick, follow
the Borrowdale road until you are opposite the Grange ;
then quit it, and cross the two bridges to the hamlet,
where a lane turns out of the main road immediately
on the right of the meeting-house with a porch and
three square windows, which has planted itself vis-a-vis
to the rather pretty little church. If from Portinscale,
the same point will of course be reached by the oppo-
site side of the lake.
The lane above mentioned leads up to the right side
of Castle Crag, the beautiful detached cliff which forms
one of the most striking features in Borrowdale. There
is no difficulty to this point:—at a fork of the lane,
soon after leaving the Grange, take the left-hand road,
running in the direction of “the Crag.” On reaching
the neck of land which connects the latter with the
cliffs of the Hindscarth range on your right, there is a
charming back view over Derwentwater, with its Skid-
daw background. Soon after quitting this neck, a
small stream is crossed ; just short of which, take a
tolerably marked foot-track which turns off on the left,
down a sloping ground ; the cart-road you have been
following keeps the previous level for some distance,
(a) Great Gable may also be ascended from the Borrowdale side
by following the Sty Head Pass nearly to its top, and then pro-
ceeding as in Route 26, page 96. But the ascent here given is
far more interesting. If made from Rosthwaite, or Buttermere,
the ascent here given will commence with the point indicated on
page 205, just below the top of the Honister Crag road.Part 3.] Ped. Eotjte, No. 48 : Honister.	205
and then ascends, by the bed of a torrent descending
from Hindscarth, to some slate-quarries. The footpath
you have taken, after descending slightly, crosses the
torrent just mentioned, and a wall which runs along its
further side ; an ingenious stile, half tree and half rock,
will be noticed here. You then cross another cart-road
leading up to the quarries, and, just beyond, a grass
track which runs into it. After this, the path rounds
underneath a slope of grass meadow, on its left; crosses
the further shoulder of the slope, and then reaches a
gate which will have been seen in advance for some
time past. The path here is very faintly marked.
Going through this gate, yon have then a wall on your
left hand, and this the track follows, keeping close by
it, and rising to, and crossing, another neck of land, by
which Hindscarth is connected with a wooded hill on
the left. On the other side of this neck, you slightly
descend, still keeping the wall close on your left, until
the path enters a sheep-fold with two gates leading out
of it. Take the right-hand gate of these ; the other
leads down to Seatoller. • You have now in front a
plantation, with a track running above it ; following
which, and then ascending the rising ground to the
right, and crossing the moor beyond, you strike the
“ Honister Crag ” road, leading from Seatoller in Bor-
row dale to Buttermere. The path will be found well-
marked in the grass from the sheep-fold to this road.
Follow this car-road to its summit-level, and continue
for a short distance down the other side, to the point
(«) where a quarrymen’s-road strikes off from it on the
left, across a stream. Here observe the surrounding
features carefully. Immediately above you, and form-
ing the left wall of the hollow down which the Butter-
mere road is carried, you have a grass slope, or shoulder,
seamed with numerous torrents, the most prominent of
(a) In ascending from Rosthwaite or Buttermere, the car-road
will of course be pursued to this same point.20G Ped. Route, No. 48 : Johnnie Brow. [Sect. 5.
which runs up to a rocky cliff, just over a stone hut.
Above this cliff, on its right-hand side, by looking
attentively you can make out the top of another and
higher line of crags, forming the summit of the moun-
tain locally known, we believe, as “Johnnie Brow —
it is nameless in the maps, and even in Mr. Flintoft’s
excellent model. The grass slope or shoulder first
noticed is also topped behind by an upper ridge, also
grass, which sweeps down from the “Johnnie Brow ”
crags, ascending again at its right-hand extremity into
the bold cliff of Honister. This upper grass ridge is
not visible where you stand, but comes into sight in
making the ascent now to be described. Follow the
mining-track by which you are standing for a few yards,
and then, when it bends away to the right, for the
Honister Crag quarries, quit it, and ascend the grass
shoulder above you already mentioned, keeping on a
tongue of land which will be at once distinguished, by
its having the stream from the stone hut on its left,
and another torrent on its right.	right-hand
stream runs further up the shoulder than the “hut”
stream, and will be found to lead to the foot of a low
scarp or wall of black rock. Follow it to this, and then
turn right, and keep under the rock to its right-hand
corner ; rounding under which, jrou then see imme-
diately above you the entire mass of the “ Johnnie
Brow” crags, the top only of which had been seen from
below. Make for the right-hand extremity of these
crags, at the point where they dip, in a slant of no great
steepness, on the upper grass ridge terminating in
Honister Crag, and already noticed. On reaching this
right-hand corner of the “Johnnie Brow” cliff, round
close under it, which brings you to a slope of ground,
not inclined at any great angle, and covered with de-
tached blocks of stone. Ascend over and among these,
keeping such a direction as will bring in a line imme-
diately behind you the steep road, which, a few yardsPart 3.] Pee. Route, No. 48: Green Gable.
207
after quitting the rock last rounded, will not fail to be
seen on the opposite side of the valley by which the
car-road descends, running up to some quarries under
Hindscarth. Pursuing this direction, you soon reach
a plateau with low peaks of rock rising out of it, inter-
spersed here and there with pools of water. This forms
the “ Johnnie Brow ” summit, its highest point being
indicated by a pile of stones on the left, the tallest of
several similar piles erected on different parts of the
plateau. Do not make for this summit, but keep it
still on your left, steering among the numerous rocky
islands by which you are surrounded in the general di-
rection of Great Gable, which here for the first time
comes in sight, bearing nearly due south ; its lofty
cairn and massive summit are unmistakeable. Proceed-
ing a short distance further, you have before you a
second summit of no great height, immediately on the
right of Great Gable, but much nearer ; a continuation,
in fact, of “Johnnie Brow.” This second summit has
also a pile of stones upon it, with a stake fixed upright
in them. Do not make for this pile, but keep rather
underneath it, rounding under it on the right-hand side.
In doing this, you obtain one of the most beautiful views
in the district, overlooking, on the one hand, Butter-
mere and Crummock Water, and on the other the se-
cluded but highly picturesque valley and lake of Enner-
dale. Great Gable is here out of sight for a short time,
but soon re-appears. Bear direct for it, at first over a
level tract of ground, in which you pass two very
noticeable detached blocks of rock. You then descend
slightly for some distance, until you join a grass road
which has been in sight for some time previously, wind-
ing round the head of Ennerdale, immediately under
Green Gable (a).
(a) Green Gable is the ridge of mountain now seen, immediately
on the left of, and nearer to you than, Great Gable, and closing in
the Ennerdale vale-head.208 Ped. Route, No. 48 : Great Gable. [Sect. 5.
Follow this grass-track, which at first leads away to
the right, towards Kirk Fell, the square-topped moun-
tain on the right of Great Gable. The track then turns
left again, direct for Great Gable ; after which, it dips
(a) slightly, and crosses the stream descending from the
“ screes ” in the corner between the two Gables, and
then continues on over the right-hand shoulder of Great
Gable. On reaching the stream, quit the track, and
ascend to the foot of the screes, keeping the stream
close beside you on your right hand. After this, a
climb of no great difficulty over these screes lands you
on the narrow neck of land connecting the two Gables,
from which you look over to Sty Head Tarn, with
Sprinkling Tarn above it. From this neck, turn to the
right, and follow the rough path which will be seen
ascending Great Gable on the Sty Head side. The
path at first slants up to the left, under some precipitous
crags, and then bends to the right and ascends above
them, after which, the summit is reached without diffi-
culty. The view is admirable, perhaps the best of any
mountain in the district. In some rocks on the summit
is a pool of water, which is said never to run dry.
To descend to Wastdale, return to the neck between
the two Gables, and follow the gully which runs down
from it on the side opposite to Ennerdale, bringing you
to the foot of Sty Head Tarn. Here you strike the
bridle-road, and, turning right, soon reach the summit-
level of the pass into Wastdale.
For Buttermere, if wished, instead of returning as
you came, a descent, of rather a rough character, may
be made on to Kirk Pell. Following the cliff-line of
the latter, you then descend on the summit-level of the
Black Sail Pass, between Kirk Fell and the Pillar; after
which, proceed as in Route 68 from the same point.
(a) It is strongly recommended to make this dip, and then ascend
as here directed, instead of attempting to keep up on a level line over
the broken masses of the Green Gable, or to climb up the latter.Part 3.] Ped. Boute, No. 49 : Grcismoor. 209
In February, 18G5, Great Gable was the scene of an
accident equally melancholy with Mr. Gough’s loss on
Helvellyn, in the early part of the century. The Hon.
Lennox Butler had been staying at Bitson’s, and left
Wastdale Head for a few hours’ ramble on Great Gable,
then deeply covered with snow, tie did not return
that afternoon, but Bitson thought lie must have
crossed to Portinscale, and it was some days before any
search took place. Mr. Butler’s body was then dis-
covered immersed in the snow at the foot of some rocks
on the north-west side of the mountain. He had
evidently slipped on the snow, and been unable to re-
cover his footing before he was carried over the edge.
The skull was so shattered that, happily, death must
have been instantaneous. The fall had been 780 feet
altogether ; 450 feet upon the snow, and 300 feet from
rock to rock, the last fall being perpendicular. Of
course, it is not known whether the accident occurred
after nightfall, or during the day ; but the latter is
quite possible. In fact, a fall of snow creates dangers
on these mountains which could hardly exist at other
times, except in attempting pure crag-work. Mr.
Gough’s accident also occurred when the ground was
covered with snow.
ROUTE XLIX.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent oe Grasmoor (a) erom Keswick or
Portinscale ; with descent to Buttermere or
Scale Hill.—From Keswick, take the Coekermouth
road, through Portinscale. On the brow just above
the village, turn into the field on your left through a
gate and follow the footpath to the white farm in front
(a) An easier ascent may be made as mentioned in the note at
the end o:‘ Route 58. But the one here given is far the more
interesting.
O210
Ped. Route, No. 49 : Orasmoor. [Sect. 5.
of you lying immediately under Swinside hill; see map.
After passing through the farm, continue the road be-
yond it till it divides. Here take the left-hand branch,
which rises to a level terrace overlooking the valley.
A short distance along this terrace, is a gate on the
right, below the road, with a path descending to it
through a small plantation. Take this gate into the
meadows, and cross them in the direction of the nearest
white farm on the opposite side of the valley. There
is a bridge and lane leading up to the farm, and above
the latter a mining road will be seen, winding up on
the nearest bank of the lateral valley which descends
between you and “ Cawsey Pike.” The latter moun-
tain, which in fact is a lower limb of the Grasmoor
range, will be at once identified by the singular knob
in which it terminates. It looks tempting to ascend
it en route, but there is no advantage in doing so, as
you have no special view from it, and are compelled to
sink the level again, on the other side. And the climb
itself is a very stiff one. Proceeding, therefore, by the
road just mentioned on the side of the lateral valley
opposite to the “Pike,” and keeping on the same side
throughout, you reach a boggy neck of land forming
the vale-head, and from which you look over into
another valley (Coldale) on the right. The road then
forks, the right-hand track, after a slight further rise,
descending into Coldale. Take that on the left, which
still ascends along the grass shoulder of Cawsey Pike,
and then crosses a somewhat broken face of rock to the
narrow neck which joins Cawsey Pike to the rest of the
Grasmoor range, and from which there is a superb view
of the Buttermere mountains, Scawfell, and the Lang-
dales. From this neck, ascend the grass slope above
you. On reaching the top of this, it will be seen that
there is no choice of routes, but another neck must be
crossed to a higher summit, with a cairn upon it.
This, however, is not Grasmoor even yet. From thePart 3.] Ped. Route, No. 49 : Grasmoor. 211
cairn, the latter will be seen rather hopelessly in ad-
vance ;—a square-topped summit, with another cairn
upon its centre, and separated from the point on which
you stand by a deep hollow. Make for the left-hand
corner of this hollow, cross it, and ascend the grass
slope to the summit.
The descent to Buttermere, if wished, may be made
immediately from the summit, but is rough and tedious.
It is better to return to the hollow, from the corner of
which you have last ascended, and where a slight track
will be seen, winding down the cliff face on the left of
the valley opening from the hollow towards Butter-
mere. This leads down without difficulty into the car-
road.
For Scale Hill, it would require a good cragsman to
descend immediately from the summit. Make for the
cliff-line which is on your right-hand as you look to-
wards Crummock Water, and follow this. You soon
reach a deep basin, or combe, which indents G-rasmoor
on this side, overlooking the valley inclosed between
that mountain and Whiteside. Bound this combe, and
it will then be seen that there are a series of easy grass
slopes descending to the sheep-folds in the valley below.
After this, proceed as in Route 58 from the same sheep-
folds.
ROUTE L.
For hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 2.
Keswick to Grasmere, by Armboth and Thirl-
mere (a).—About half a mile beyond the third mile-
stone on the turnpike road to Grasmere, the latter
crosses a peat moor to the foot of a rocky cliff on the
(a) No one who can do so should omit to take this route in
preference to the dull coach-road. Thirlmere cannot be properly-
seen from the latter. In going from Grasmere to Keswick, the
coach-road has perhaps a compensating advantage in the exquisite
view of St. John’s Yale. See page 62.
O 2212 Ped. Route, No. 50. Thirlmere. [Sect. 5.
opposite side of the valley. Just as it reaches this, it
is joined by a footpath with a stone step-stile on the
left. From this point begin counting the gates on the
right, and at the 5th gate, not counting one which has
been put up as part of the fence, turn into a cart-road,
from which a footpath strikes off, crosses a stone stile,
and then winds under a chain of rocky knolls till it
reaches some farm cottages. Immediately on passing
these, take the road turning sharp round to the right.
This brings you to the bank of the stream which issues
from Thirlmere, and keeps alongside of the stream,
keeping it on its left throughout, until you reach the
foot of the lake. Here the road forks, the left-hand
branch descending to the water. Take the other, which
rises through a plantation to a neck of land under the
beautiful Haven Crag. From this point, there is a
superb view of Thirlmere, backed by Dunmail Raise
and Loughrigg. The road now descends to Armboth,
where notice the three causeway bridges. It is then
pursued with little difficulty, keeping the same side of
the valley until you rejoin the turnpike road on Dunmail
Raise, soon after passing some farms at the foot of
Steel Fell; see Route 53. Before these are reached,
there are also some beautiful views looking back over
Thirlmere, with Saddleback for the background.
ROUTE LI.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 2.
From Keswick by Borrowdale akt> the Stake
Pass, to Great Langdale aud Grasmere, or
Ambleside.—Take the left, or if from Portinscale, the
right, side of Derwentwater, and follow the Borrow-
dale road past the Grange and Rostliwaite. Soon after
leaving the latter, you reach a smithy with a turning
on the left, leading to Stonethwaite hamlet. Take
this, and at a short distance from the smithy, where213
Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 51: Stake Pass.
the road turns to the right, towards the church, cross
into the fields by a stone step-stile, which brings you
into the road again short of Stonethwaite. Here take
the right-hand turning through the hamlet; the left
leads over a bridge to High Raise Pass, Route 52.
The right-hand turn passes to the right of a white cot-
tage with two yew trees. Do not, however, follow the
road, or rather lane, thus taken beyond the hamlet;
but just after the last house in the latter, where the
lane begins to ascend, take an open farm-road through
a gate, which soon becomes a pleasant path over mea-
dows, joining the lane again just beyond a stone shed.
The path is perfectly well-marked. A short distance
on, you get another bit of field on the left, by the side
of the road, which is rough and stony enough to make
the slightest relief of this nature desirable. Just be-
yond this, the valley forks, the left-hand branch con-
tinuing in the previous direction, but slightly curving
under a grass ridge of the mountain on the left, to
High Raise Pass; while the other, or Stake, branch,
turns sharp to the right, rounding into a defile between
Glaramara on the right, and the beautiful “ Eagle
Crag ” on the left. The bridle-road must be followed
round this corner, and for a short distance on, to a
point just short of another stone shed on the right,
under some trees. Here quit it, and cross an attractive-
looking footbridge over a deep pool in the stream on
your left. On the opposite side of this, a well-marked
foot-track will be found, which is to be followed up the
valley, keeping the stream close to you on your right
hand throughout. Soon after joining this foot-track,
3rou pass two plantations, and then round under a huge
tower of detached rock on a rising ground above you;
—a spy-fortalice of the lower valley. Beyond this, you
continue skirting between a system of green hillocks on
your left and the stream (as before) on your right.
These hillocks terminate about two or three miles from
o 3214
Ped. Route, No. 52 : High Raise. [Sect. 5.
the foot-bridge above referred to, at a point where a
small colony of detached trees will be observed in the
bottom on the right. At this point, the main stream
of the valley bends away, as will have been seen for
some time previously, to the right, running up under
Bow Fell and Hanging Knot. Another branch of the
stream, however, continues nearly in the previous direc-
tion, or inclining rather to the left of it, running up
into the mountain ridge in front of you; and over this
lies the pass. This last stream is crossed by a wooden
bridge just in front of you, and from the bridge are two
paths ascending the bank above it. The right, above
which is the stem of an old direction-post, leads up the
main stream to Esk House; the left leads to the “ Stake
Pass.” From this point there is no difficulty. The
path ascends in zigzags by the stream crossed by the
bridge, keeping it close on its left throughout, until the
summit-level is reached;—a boggy plateau of some
width, over which the track is well marked. You then
descend by another series of zigzags to the sheep-folds
at the head of the Langdale valley ; after which, pro-
ceed as in Route 54, page 220.
ROUTE LII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 2.
From Keswick (or Portinsoale), by Borrow-
dale, to Grasmere, by the High Raise Pass.—As
far as the hamlet of Stonethwaite, beyond Rosthwaite
in Borrowdale, proceed as in Route 51, pages 212,
213. On reaching the hamlet, instead of taking the
turning to the right, as directed on page 213 take that
to the left and cross the bridge, where a rough bridle-
road will be found, (a) continuing for some distance up
(a) This road continues to Rosthwaite, and might he joined
there, if wished. But it is very rough, and the route is better
commenced as above directed.215
Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 52: High Raise.
the stream, which, it should be observed, is kept on
your right hand throughout the ascent. At some dis-
tance on, the entrance to the Stake pass is seen open-
ing out on the other side of the stream, between the
Bull and Eagle crags. On the High Raise stream, in
the distance, two conical grass knolls now come in
sight, and soon after a black pyramidal rock above the
knolls. The track makes for the knolls, winding under
them on the left, when it trends away to the right,
the valley taking the same direction. Ascend another
grass knoll which brings you to the foot of the rock,
and then ascend by the side of a small rill on the left
of the rock;—a very sharp pull while it lasts. At the
top of this ascent is a stone planted upright in the
ground, and close by, a small pile of stones on a rock.
These commence a series of guiding stones across a
boggy table land, very wet and uncompromising; their
general direction is nearly parallel with the main upper
ridge. The guiding stones end on some rocks, where
the summit level is reached. The tourist will now be
scandalised to see that instead of looking down into
Easedale, which stretches out in the distance, he is
separated from it by a broad boggy basin running in
the opposite direction; the head, in fact, of the
Wythburn stream, which crosses the Keswick road on
the Thirlmere side of Dunmail Raise, and the right
bank of which is therefore opposite to him, between
him and Easedale. There is no path, and only two or
three guiding stones, which are of little use; but he
must make as he best can for the centre part of the
opposite bank, just mentioned. After a short time, the
point will be seen marked by a square rock, with two
stones placed upright, one on each side of it. From
this point, follow the left bank of the stream which
descends into Easedale ; there are traces of an old zig-
zagged road on the left, but it is better not to regard
these. At some distance down, the stream, which has216
Ped. Route, No. 53 : Watendlath. [Sect. 5.
hitherto been descending rapidly, reaches a broad grass-
flat, in which it flows for some distance. Cross the
stream here, opposite to a circular sheep-fold, and con-
tinue on the right bank till the valley again begins to
descend rapidly. From this point the track is well
marked into Grasmere, crossing to the left bank by
some broad stepping stones, at a point where a wall
comes down on the sloping ground on your right hand.
By following this wall over a low shoulder of the hill,
Easedale Tarn and Sour-milk Ghyll may be reached, if
wished. The rock and water in Lower Easedale, on
the descent to Grasmere, are highly picturesque.
ROUTE LIII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 2.
From Keswick to Grasmere by Watendlath
and Haerop Tarn (a).—Follow the Borrowdale road
for between two or three miles, to a point just short of
Barrow House. Here a rough farm-road to Watend-
lath turns off on the left through a gate, and ascends
a hill of some steepness. At first this road runs almost
parallel with the Borrowdale car-road, ascending be-
tween the Barrow House plantations on the right and
the open mountain on the left. It then crosses some
copse-wood, and after passing a farm on the open rising
ground beyond this, enters another wood, and soon
afterwards reaches the edge of the cliff, from which
there is an exquisite view over Derwentwater and
Bassenthwaite. There are in fact two points of view,
only a few yards distant from each other, with a short
double path leading up to each. But the second is the
best.
(a) This route is given with a good deal of minuteness on
account of its difficulty. It is a more interesting walk if taken
the other way. See Route 21.
/Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 53 : 'Watcndlcith.
217
From this point, there is nothing1 requiring notice
to Watendlath farm and tarn. The road is most
enjoyable throughout, barring some pilgrimage over the
rough stones of a part of it which runs level with the
infant “ Lodore,” and which appears to he an alterna-
tive water-course in the rainy months. On reaching the
farm, do not prooceed to the main buildings, but after
passing one or two out-houses on the left, and crossing
a small stream, descending from the mountain on that
side, by a bridge of two large stones, turn up the
stream, keeping it on your left hand; there is a rough
cart-road. This road soon afterwards again crosses the
stream, or its dry bed, just above the point where
another torrent joins it. It then climbs the shoulder of
the mountain above by steep zigzags, keepingbetweenthe
stream first mentioned, and which will be seen descend-
ing from the mountain in a deeply channelled ravine,
on the right, and some other watercourses on the left.
Nearly at the top of this rise, the road, the main track
of which should be carefully followed, returns to the
side of the first stream, on the opposite bank of which
a wall is now seen. Here quit the road, and, crossing
the stream, continue by the wall for some distance
until it turns away in the direction of the upper valley.
It should now be quitted, and the slight grass slope in
front of you ascended, in the direction of the moun-
tain from the fore-part of which the main branch of
the upper valley descends; the mountain in question
is easily identified by its cone-shaped summit, the only
one visible from the point where you quit the wall.
A further guide to the direction, if required, will be a
sharp pointed rock at some mile behind you, with a
wall running up on its right side, which should be kept
in a line with the mountain just mentioned.
Continue this direction for some distance over the
table-land of moor on which you now are. There is no
reliable track, but keep as near the edge of the main218
Ped. Route, No. 53 : Rarrop Tarn. [Sect. 5.
valley as you can, without dipping into it. This brings
you in sight of two islands of rock in the moor, each
with a smooth surface facing you, lying between you
and the cone-shaped mountain above mentioned, one
behind the other. Make for the nearest of these rocky
islands, passing a smaller detached square block en route.
On reaching this island, observe from it the direction
of the stream which drains the upper Watendlath valley,
and descends into the tarn by the farm. It will he
seen that the main branch of the stream curves away
to the right, as you look towards it, under a mountain
of some height. The left, and much smaller, branch
follows the previous direction, running up into a low
rocky ridge, where its source or bog-head is marked by
two rushy patches. Make for a point in the ridge
above these patches, just on the right of the stream.
On reaching this point, you have before you on the
right a tarn, the feeder of the other (or main) branch
of the Watendlath stream. In front of you is a peat-
bog, terminating in a second ridge, about the centre of
which is a large black stone, something like a hut, with
another white one lying under it on its left side. A
third stone, standing upright in the ground, will also
he seen in advance of the two others, somewhat to
their right. Make for a point rather left of the “hut”
stone. On reaching this, something of a road suddenly
appears ; following which across the ridge, Harrop
Tarn comes into sight below. The descent to the
latter is without difficulty; there is no reliable track,
but make for its lower extremity, keeping it on your
right. At the foot of the tarn, you cross the stream
issuing from it, and here there is a well-marked path,
which follows the right bank of the stream down to
Wythburn. Do not, however, take this, but diverge
from it, rounding close under the rocky cliff on your
right, and gradually descending ; there is a slight foot-
track in this direction. A farm will soon be seen, withPart 3.] Ped. Route, No. 54 : Eslc Rouse.
219
another at a short distance beyond it, lying at the foot
of Steel Fell; and past these runs a cart-road, which
joins the turnpike road on the top of Dunmail Raise.
You are then in the coach-road for Grasmere.
ROUTE LIT.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 2.
From Keswick to Grasmere or Ambleside,
BY BoRROWDALE, THE TOP OF ESK HOUSE, AND
Great Lahgdale.—This is a most interesting walk
throughout. The route is the same as the Scawfell
Pike ascent (Route 47) as far as the “ three hillocks
on Esk House ” which are noticed on page 201 as the
point of divergence of the present route. From this
point the Scawfell ascent, as noticed on page 201, turns
to the right, crossing to the upper ridge of “Esk
House.”
For Grasmere, you of course proceed in the direction
of the Great Langdale valley, clearly marked by the
“ two Pikes ” in front; and this point is also the junc-
tion of the Route from Wastdale Head to Gras-
mere, No. 69. Looking Langdale way, it will be seen
that between you and the main hollow which forms
that valley, are two other depressions. Of these, the
nearest to you lies under Hanging Knot, which, as
mentioned on page 201, is the western continuation of
Bow Fell, descending from it to the Esk House ridge.
Bow Fell itself is the peaked mountain further in
advance on the right; and underneath this lies the
second, and deeper, of the two depressions. Above the
latter is seen a narrow grass ridge, stretching across
from Bow Fell to the square-headed cliff, sprinkled
with loose stones, which is seen on the right of the
Langdale Pikes. To this ridge there is a well-marked
path, which you come to at once in crossing the narrow220 Ped. Route, No. 54 : Great Langdale. [Sect. 5.
boggy col a short distance on the right of “ the three
hillocks.” This path, which is also marked by guiding-
stones, zigzags down into the nearest of the two de-
pressions, under Hanging Knot; then ascends the
rising ground in front, keeping rather to the left to
avoid the bog; and then dips again into the further
depression under Bow Pell, where Angle Tarn will be
seen on the right. Here, you cross the stream flowing
from the tarn, and ascend the grass ridge above it, first
turning left, and then making a steep slant from left
to right. On the top of this ridge, you have above
you, on the left, the square-headed rock above men-
tioned, but which is here seen in a pyramidal shape,
and on the right Bow Fell. The path crosses the
ridge, and dips slightly to the bog-head of a stream
descending to Great Langdale, which it crosses ; and
from this point, a rough poney-road diverges on the
right, keeping up on the mountain. I)o not take this,
but keep close down by the stream, keeping it on your
left-hand, and following such path as may be found.
The stream now breaks away into the deep-channelled
ravine called Rosset Ghyll, by which you descend, keep-
ing it still on your left hand till near the bottom, when
the path crosses to some grass knolls opposite, and
strikes across the valley to the sheep-folds at the foot
of the Stake Pass. From this point, a rough cart-track
leads in about two miles to Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel,
where the car-road commences ; and there is another
hotel about a mile lower down. You then follow the
road from the lower hotel as far as Langdale village and
church. Here, for Ambleside, the car-road turns to the
right under the churchyard, and crosses the valley to
Elterwater hamlet. For Grasmere, you follow a
rougher road continuing in the previous direction under
the mountain, and descend to Grasmere by High Close
and the left side of the lake. See map; and page
60.Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 55: Sty Head.
221
ROUTE LV.
For Hotels and Inns, see part 1 of this Section and of Section 6.
Keswick (ok Portinscale) by Bokkowdale and
Sty Head to Wastdale.—This is a fine pass, but
wholly without difficulty. As far as Stockley Bridge
the route is the same as Route 47; see page 198.
From the bridge, the bridle road on the right will of
course be taken, leading up to the corner above the
waterfall in the right-hand fork of the valley. The
left-hand fork leads to Scawfell Pike and Great Lang-
dale. The summit of the pass is 1,300 feet above the
sea-level. Sty Head Tarn lies a little below it, on the
Borrowdale side. Green Gable and Great Gable are on
the right, and on the left is Great End, the northern
base of Scawfell Pike, the cairn on which easily marks
its position. As you descend on the other side, the
view down Wastdale, with the sea in the distance, is
one of rare beauty. The descent is frightfully stoney
in parts, but otherwise without difficulty. For Wast-
dale and Wastwater see Section 6.
KOUTE LYI.
For Hotels, sec Part 1 of this Section and of Section 4.
Keswick to Ullswater by the top of Styx and
Glenriddino.—In this pass, the coach-road to Gras-
mere should be followed for some distance. About
four and a half miles from Keswick, the road, after
slightly ascending, dips to a highly picturesque bridge,
where the St. John’s Beck is crossed in its passage from
Thirlmere to the valley of the same name. The road
then rises to a cluster of cottages marked on the map
as Bridge End, and then again dips into the flat of the
valley, where it is joined, a short distance beyond these
cottages, by the road from the St. John’s Yale, which
runs into it at right angles on the left. The point is222
[Sect. 5.
Ped. Route, No. 56 : Styx.
just before a small stream is passed, nearly opposite the
centre of the wooded hill on your right; there is also
on your right a gate into a field, just opposite the junc-
tion of the St. John’s road. On the limb of Helvellyn
immediately above the latter will be seen a precipitous
rocky ravine, with a mountain-track ascending in zig-
zags alongside of it, and a white farm underneath.
This is the route to be taken. After a few yards, the
St. John’s road bends away to the left; and here a
cart-road through a gate leads up to the farm, which
rejoices in the name of Stankew. Keep leftwards
through the farm-buildings, having the farm-house,
with its round oven and low back-window, on your left,
and a large out-house on the right. You then take a
gate into the field above the out-house, passing a spout
of water, and cross the field to its right-hand corner.
Here, a wicket leads into a small sheep-fold, with a
bridge close to it. Cross this, and you are then at the
foot of the mountain-track by the ravine already seen
from the road, which is to be followed to the top, keep-
ing the ravine on your left-hand throughout. This
ascent, which is accomplished by a series of steep zig-
zags, brings you to another sheep-fold, on an upper
plateau above the ravine. Here you quit the line of
the latter, and slant across the plateau to the right,
towards an upper ridge, or shoulder, overlooking the
latter. The path is faintly marked here, but ascend
the grass slope of this shoulder to two piles of stones
which will be seen on top of it; then keep for a short
distance parallel with the line of the ravine you have
quitted ; and then again bear to the right, towards the
upper end of another ravine, less rocky than the first,
which here comes in sight. The bog-head of this
second ravine is crossed, and the path is then well-
marked to the summit-level of the pass — a grass pla-
teau of no great width, known as “ Styx.” This plateau
is crossed nearly in a straight line:—the stones and223
Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 56 : Glenridding.
other marks on your right and left are the county
boundary.
From the summit, the path descends rapidly into an
upper valley on the Ullswater side, keeping the stream
of the valley on its right, until a corner is reached
where the stream is collected in a large reservoir for the
mines. The path is perfectly well-marked to this point,
and there is no difficulty. At the left end of this re-
servoir you reach some huts. The track passes close
on the right of these, and then continues across the
broken ground of the mining-works to some other huts,
just beyond which it crosses the stream of the upper
valley, here almost obliterated by the processes to which
it is subjected. At no great distance beyond this, you
reach a point where you look down into the lower Glen-
ridding valley, into which the stream you have just
crossed, or as much of it as has not been absorbed by
the reservoir, descends by a precipitous ravine on your
left. The road down to this lower valley keeps on the
right side of the ravine, descending first by some slight
zigzags to a corner from which the mining buildings
below come into sight. It then makes a long slant to
the right, and then zigzags steeply down to these build-
ings, in which there is no difficulty. It is another
matter going up them, with a September sun in your
back.
Passing through the buildings, you follow the road
to the lake, keeping the stream on your right hand
throughout. The coach-road is joined at the bottom,
just opposite the entrance drive of the Ullswater (lake)
Hotel.
ROUTE LYII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 2.
Keswick to Ullswater, by the Yale or St.
John’s and Dockwray, under Helvellyn.—Take
the Penrith coach-road out of Keswick, turning to the224
Ped. Route, No. 57 : St. Johns.
[Sect. 5.
left by the Royal Oak. A short distance beyond the
second milestone, the road bends away from the pic-
turesque glen of the Greta, and then descends slightly
until it crosses a small stream, after which it ascends
again, in the direction of the Greta. The first turning
to the right (a) on this ascent leads to the Yale of St.
John’s, making a short further rise, and then slanting
down in the direction of the lowest northern limb of
Helvellyn. A farm is passed soon afterwards, and the
road then dips to a bridge over the St. John’s Beck,
making a most objectionable angle for that purpose, but
for which there seems to be no remedy.
Crossing the bridge, a short lane brings you into the
main road of St. John’s valley. Here turn to the right,
and follow this road for a few yards, when another
turning will be seen on the left, leading up to the out-
buildings of a farm. Follow this road, which, after
passing the outbuildings, zigzags up the hill, and then
forks, just above the farm-house. Here take the left-
hand fork, between two walls, and follow the road,
which now continues in an uniform general direction
for some distance, ascending by some curves of no great
steepness over the nearest shoulder of the Helvellyn
limb. This part of the road will have been a con-
spicuous object on the descent into the St John’s Yale.
The road itself is a fair cart-road, improving consider-
ably on the Ullswater side.
After crossing the shoulder just referred to, the road
bends to the right, crosses the moss-head of a stream,
and then ascends over another shoulder of the moun-
tain. Just beyond this, a green road turning off in the
direction of the Helvellyn ridge is to be avoided. The
Ullswater road dips slightly, and may be now seen for
two or three miles in advance, running under the ridge
(a) It should be observed that there is some slight inaccuracy
in the map here. The above will be found the correct notation of
the point where the coach-road is to be quitted.Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 57 : Ullswater.
225
in a general direction from East to West, and with no
great variation in its level, and finally rounding a cor-
ner just short of Mell Fell, the conical wooded hill on
the left.
There is of course no difficulty to this point. On
reaching it, you round it to the right, and cross some
boggy ground to a building near a plantation, both of
which will have come into sight at the corner. From the
plantation, the road begins to descend, keeping the
plantation on its right, and then skirting first by a wall
and then by a pretty wooded dingle, both close on the
right, and disregarding all turnings, until the village of
Dockwray is reached. Here there is a pleasant little
inn ; the Cross Keys, or Royal Hotel. Just below the
inn, you join the coach-road from Keswick to Ulls-
water, which has made a long detour by Threlkeld and
Matterdale. Soon after this, you enter Mr. Marshall’s
plantation, and descend towards the lake, the shores of
which are then followed to its upper end. The views
of Ullswater on this descent are exceedingly beautiful;
on a bright day, and when first seen from this point, one
can understand its impressing the visitor with the con-
viction of its superiority to anything in the district. It
should be added that a well-marked footpath, cutting
off a considerable corner in the descent to the lake, will
be seen on the right-hand, at some distance down the
hill. This may be followed with advantage; it is not
the grass path turning off on the right, just below a
small quarry. The latter indeed leads to some charm-
ing points of view in G-owbarrow Park ; but it comes to
serious grief afterwards. If it is wished to reach Ara
Force, you must follow the road to the lake, and
reascend;—or else trespass.
ROUTE LVIII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
Keswick (or Portinscale), to Scale Hill or
p220
Ped. Koute, No, 58: Coldale.
[Sect. 5.
Buttermere by Braithwaite and Coldale (a).—
Braithwaite village lies at the lower end of Coldale, a
little off the Cockermouth coach-road: the turning
to it is about half a mile beyond the second milestone.
This is also the turning for the car-road to Scale Hill.
On reaching the village, take the right-hand road
through it. Just beyond the last houses, the Scale
Hill road will be seen entering a picturesque defile on
the right. For Coldale, follow the mining road which
ascends by the side of the stream, keeping the latter
on its left throughout, and at first rising steeply to
some height above it. About a mile along this road,
the vale-head comes in sight, closed by a bold rocky
cliff, with some mining-works at its foot. The path by
which the ascent of the pass is made is seen winding
up on the left of this cliff, with the crags of the lower
Grasmoor range above it, although Grasmoor summit
itself lies further back. The range on the right of the
pass is that composed of Grisedale and Whiteside, the
latter being the western extremity of the chain, imme-
diately overlooking Scale Hill, while Grisedale is its
eastern and highest point, rising into a peak on the
right, about half way between Braithwaite and the
mines. The summit-level, or col, of the pass to Scale
Hill is the sharp grass ridge which is seen connecting
this latter chain, or rather the portion of it beyond the
mines, on the right, with the Grasmoor chain on the
left.
Following the path just referred to, on the left of
the cliff above the mining-works, you come to an upper
basin of bog, lying under the Grasmoor crags ; in front
of you is the grass ridge or col just mentioned. Keep
up on the right of the basin of bog, and make for a
point a little to the right-hand of the centre of the
grass col, with some projecting surfaces of rock leading
(a) The walk should be always taken this way, if possible—not
the reverse.Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 58: Buttermere.
227
up to it. By keeping on these, a good deal of wet
ground is avoided. On reaching the point in the col
just referred to (a), it will be seen that the valley dips
immediately from it on the other side, making a rapid
descent into the hollow between Whiteside and Gras-
moor. Follow it in this descent, keeping on the grass
close to the stream, which performs the same descent
in a series of small falls. A rough path is soon found
alongside the stream, which you should be careful to
keep on your left hand. At some distance down, there
is a sheep-fold in the bottom, with another, and larger
one, further on ; and, about half a mile below the latter,
the path rounds a corner, between some line masses of
black rock and the stream. For Buttermere, the stream
should be crossed just below this corner, and a rough
path on the opposite side taken, which winds under the
precipitous sides of Grasmoor, and eventually descends
into the car-road leading from Scale Hill to Butter-
mere. After rounding the shoulder under the Gras-
moor cliffs, do not take a path which keeps up at a
high level above the car-road, but descend at once to
the latter.
For Scale Hill, the path, after turning the corner
formed by the black rocks above mentioned, continues
for a short distance parallel with the stream, and still
keeping it on its left hand, but at some distance below
you, the track here running nearly on a level. You
then round a shoulder of Whiteside, and reach a point
where you open the view below you, Loweswater being
in front, Crummock Water, with Melbreak above it, on
the left, and the vale of Lorton on the right. The
Scale Hill Hotel is out of sight, but lies under the
highest point of a chain of grass hill seen fronting you,
in the centre of the valley. The hotel may be reached
(a) For the ascents of Grasmoor and Grisedale from this point,
see the note at the end of this route. For the ridge-walk from
the same point to Whiteside, see Route 59.
p 2228 Ped. Route, No. 58 : Scale Hill. [Sect. 5.
in a direct line by scrambling up the bill to this point,
from which a path, with exquisite views of Crummock
Water, runs through the hotel grounds. If, however,
as is very possible, the tourist has found the Coldale
Pass fatiguing, an easier way to Scale Hill is found by
observing the point where the line of the chain of grass
hill just mentioned converges with those of the stream
and car-road. The point is further indicated by a
plantation there. To reach it, make first for a ruined
farm which will be seen among some trees below you
close to the stream, and cross the latter by the foot-
bridge there ; then keep along its left bank until you
reach the plantation. Follow the road through the
latter, and for a short distance beyond, and then take a
cart-track which will be seen turning out of the car-
road on the left, by a cottage with two trees at its side.
This leads to a farm-house, which it passes, and then
becomes a green lane, terminating in a fieldpath through
a gate; all paths leading out of the lane before you
reach its further end are to be disregarded. The path
you have taken crosses two or three meadows, and a
copse on a rising ground, and eventually joins the car-
road from Keswick to Scale Hill, a short distance below
the hotel. For Crummock Water, see page 181. As
there noticed, the lake is not seen from the hotel,
although it is a very pretty walk to it.
Note.—From the col, or grass ridge, of the pass
above described, Grisedale or Grasmoor may be ascended,
although as to the latter see note on page 209.
For Grisedale, instead of descending from the col
into the valley on the Scale Hill side, turn to the right
on the summit, and continue rounding to the right and
raising your level, until the ridge-line is reached con-
necting Whiteside with Grisedale, and overlooking, on
one side, the mining-works which you have just passed,
and, on the other, the Scale Hill car-road and Whin-
latter. By continuing along this ridge-line in thePart 3.] Ped. Route, No. 58 : Grasmoor.
229
same direction, the summit of Grisedale is easily reached.
It will be seen that by pursuing this route you are
walking, from the top of the pass, in a direction exactly
the reverse of the mining-road which has been pre-
viously followed up Coldale. But it is the pleasantest
and shortest way of ascending Grisedale, notwith-
standing.
For Grasmoor, you of course turn to the left from
the col or summit-level of the pass. Grasmoor is not
the precipitous mountain, however, descending imme-
diately upon the pass on this side, but a round-headed,
smooth summit lying next beyond it. Between this
and the precipitous mountain a grass hollow will he
seen, with a very gradual slope, and forming a con-
tinuation of the grass ridge of the col. Ascend this
hollow to its further end, where you reach a neck of
land overlooking the valleys running to the Butter-
mere road. From this point, proceed as in Route
49, page 211.
For the ridge-walk over Whiteside, see the next
Route, No. 59.
ROUTE LIX.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
RIDGE WALK.
From Keswick (or Portinscale), by Coldale
and Whiteside, to Scale Hill ; or returx to
Keswick by Whinlatter road. — Proceed as in
Route 58, page 226, as far as the summit-level of the
pass. Instead, however, of descending into the valley
on the Scale Hill side as there directed, ascend the
rising ground on the right-hand side of the pass, until
you reach its edge, or cliff-line, from which you look
over to the other side. This ascent should be made as
nearly as may be in a line with the grass ridge which
p 3230 Ped. Route, No. 59 : Whiteside. [Sect. 5
forms the summit of the pass, keeping the precipitous
cliff of Grasmoor which descends upon the latter due
in your back.
On reaching the cliff-line just referred to, turn to the
left;—turning to the right would lead back to Grise-
dale, page 228. From this point, there is no difficulty
in following the cliff-line to Whiteside, taking care to
keep up on the ridge, with the valley between White-
side and Grasmoor immediately beneath you on your
left. The ridge is not uniform, either in direction or
surface, and in one or two places is very narrow, a mere
neck of rock; but the descent at these parts is not
sheer enough on either side to occasion any real diffi-
culty. Whiteside is the last point on this mountain
chain, which descends abruptly upon the Scale Hill
valley a short distance beyond the cairn which marks
the summit; so that by following the cliff-line until
you can go no further, you cannot fail of reaching it.
On the Whinlatter side, the chain throws off two or
three branches, running down to the Scale Hill car-
road. These will of course not be followed, as it will
be at once seen that they would lead away from the
edge of the valley lying between you and Grasmoor.
The views from Whiteside summit, as well as along the
entire ridge, are of first-rate excellence, especially when
the Solway Frith and the Scotch coast are visible, as
they frequently are. And the height of the ground
you are traversing, with the fresh air and unbroken
look-out on each side, give an elasticity and enjoyment
to the walk which entitle it to high commendation.
To descend to Scale Hill Hotel, keep the cliff-line of
the valley between you and Grasmoor close on your
left as before, descending rapidly by its side, until a
grass hollow is reached, with an easy slope to the right.
Here quit the cliff-line, and continue the descent by
this hollow, until you come in sight of a ruined farm-
house, among trees, by the edge of the Grasmoor valleyPart 3.] Ped. Route, No. 60: Scale Force.
231
stream. Make for this, and then proceed as in Route
58, page 228.
To return to Keswick by the Whinlatter road, leave
the cairn on the summit in the direction of Cocker-
mouth and the lower part of the Vale of Lorton, both
of which you here see below you. This brings you to
a lower summit, also with a cairn upon it, immediately
on the left of which is a grass gully, descending into
the valley. Here a green track is found, running at
the foot of the mountain, and which at some distance
on is joined by the car-road from Seale Hill to Keswick.
The descent by this road upon the Vale of Keswick,
with the views of Skiddaw and Bassenthwaite, are very
beautiful.
ROUTE LX.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
From Buttermere, by Scale Force and Flou-
tern Tarn, to Ennerdale Lake.—From Buttermere,
take the road on the left of the Fish Inn. A short
distance on, the road makes a right angle, and then,
soon afterwards, reaches a point where there are three
gates close together, with a small stream running under
the middle one. Take the nearest to you of these gates,
and follow the cart-road into which it leads. This runs
by the side of a hedge, and crosses to the opposite side
of the valley, where there is a bridge over the stream
flowing from Buttermere Lake to Crummock Water.
Immediately over the bridge rise the peaked summit
and broken crags of Red Pike ; and Scale Force lies in
the hollow between Red Pike and Melbreak, the next
mountain on the same side, overhanging Crummock
Water.
On crossing the bridge, turn to the right, and follow
the path in that direction, keeping on a nearly level
line at the foot of the Red Pike crags, parallel, at first
with the stream just crossed, and afterwards, on reach-232
Ped. Route. No, 60: Scale Force. [Sect. 5.
ing it, with the upper end of Crummock Water. All
suggestions in this part of the walk, whether by paths
or otherwise, to quit this line, and turn up on the high
ground on the left, so as to cut off the shoulder of the
hill, should he peremptorily resisted. In the part by
Crummock Water, the path is spongy, and faintly
marked, and in one or two places rises slightly, to avoid
some worse than usual bog.
The point at which it is desirable, at last, to diverge
from the lake, is on reaching a clump of bushes, hollies
and others, nearly opposite to a small island on this
side of the lake. There is no reliable track, but wind
round from this point into the hollow above referred
to, lying between Red Pike and Melbreak. The direc-
tion to be taken is first towards the stream flowing in
this hollow, and then parallel with the stream, but still
not rising the hill at all, and, of course, not crossing the
stream. The Scale Force ravine is now seen on the
left, between the two limbs of Red Pike. The “Force”
itself lies just under the wall which is seen slanting
down to this ravine, and on reaching the latter, descends
on its near side ; and the line you are following parallel
with the main stream brings you to the lower part of
this wall. Ascend by it, and just above some trees a
stile will be found which leads to the Force. The fall
is exceedingly picturesque ; recessed into a deep cleft
of the rock, but with a fringe of trees and vegetation
which makes its character one of beauty rather than
gloom. In this respect, it contrasts with the vault-
like chasm of Dungeon Ghyll, in the Great Langdale
valley. The height of the Force, inclusive of the lower
fall made by it, is about 160 feet. The access to it is
some easy steps.
To proceed from the Force to Ennerdale (a), cross
the Force stream just below the fall, and descend for a
(a) If it is wished to go from the Force to Scale Hill, proceed
as directed in the note to Route 64.Part 3.] Ped. Poete, No. 60 : Floutern Tarn. 233
short distance. On emerging from the grass banks
which form the vestibule of the fall, and looking up the
main stream of the valley, a path is seen on the opposite
bank of the latter, ascending by it to a singular pro-
jection, or knob, of rock. Make for this rock, crossing
the main stream in the bottom below, to avoid the
mosses on the Ped Pike side. On reaching the rock,
you have in front of you a flat basin of bog, terminating
in a grass ridge, which connects the high mountain on
the left (Herdhouse) with a lower chain on the right,
and itself rises, nearly in its centre, into a very notice-
able grass peak. The pass for Ennerdale lies in the
dip immediately on the left of this peak. Floutern
Tarn is still further to the left, under the cliffs of Herd-
house. Running up in the direction of the grass peak,
you see a well-marked semi-circular sweep of road («),
terminating just under a round sheep-fold. Make for
this, taking such path as you may discover across the
bog. On reaching the sheep-fold (which is the junction
of the Poete feom Scale Hill to Enneeeale,
No. 61), you have then above you, rather on the left,
the channel of a stream with grassy sides, and a bed of
rushes in the bottom. Make for the grass slopes on
the side of this, and ascend, keeping the stream on
your left, at some distance below you. On the top of
this ascent, Floutern Tarn comes in sight on the left,
and the grass peak, which has been out of view for
some time past, re-appears close above you. Keep
under the latter, on its left side, and you reach the
summit-level of the pass, which is a boggy plateau of
some width.
To descend to Ennerdale, cross the bog on the sum-
mit-level just mentioned, following a fairly-marked
track, which commences just under the grass peak, and
continues without difficulty down the right bank of the
(a) This is one of two new roads just competed for inclosure
purposes.234
Ped. Route, No. 60: Ennerdale.
[Sec. 5.
stream flowing from the col, at some distance above it.
Ennerdale Lake soon comes in sight, with the “Angler’s
Inn ” at its lower extremity, close to a small plantation.
There is, however, so much difficulty in reaching the
latter, that it would seem as if the natives wished to
keep its resources to themselves. The following direc-
tions may assist the tourist to obtain his share of
them.
From the point where the inn comes in sight, the
track above mentioned bends away from the stream,
and crosses a low shoulder, in the direction of a farm
which will be seen in the distance, a good deal to the
right of the inn, lying under a hill of some height.
The track is here very faintly marked; but, in the
direction of this farm, a green lane will be seen below
you, at first running between two walls, and then bend-
ing to the right, and running under a single hedge.
Descend to this lane, and follow it, by the side of a
small brook, until you come to a turning on the left;
—-just before the lane reaches another farm, lying to
the left of that previously observed. From this point,
a good deal of attention is required. The turning leads
directly away from the inn ; but it is to be followed,
notwithstanding.. A short distance on, you come into
another lane, where you must again turn left, still more
away from the inn (a). You then follow this lane,
until you come to a cart-road, entering the fields on
your right by a gate, and descending a sloping ground
to a white farm-house below, a short distance from the
lake. Follow this cart-road through two fields ; but
at the bottom of the second, instead of continuing to
the farm-house, which would lead to the upper part of
the lake and Ennerdale valley, take another cart-track
(a) There is no remedy for this vexatious detour, except by
trespassing, which must be left to the tourist's individual con-
science. It is an argument on the side of morality, that a direct
cut to the inn would lead over some very wet ground.Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 61: Ennerdale. 235
on your right, running under the hedge at the bottom
of the second field, in the direction (at last) of the inn.
Following this, you soon come out on the margin of
the lake, and reach the comfortable little inn without
further difficulty.
ROUTE LXI.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
Scale Hill to Ennerdale Lake, by Floutern
Tarn (a).—From Scale Hill Hotel, cross the valley to
the church. Here follow the road which goes under
the Hounds and Hare Inn, and, just below, take the
right-hand turning, crossing the bridge. After some
distance, you come out on the fells behind Melbreak,
where the road which you have followed from the
bridge has recently been widened for inclosure purposes.
At some distance on, the road forks, the left-hand
branch keeping up on the slopes which form the re-
verse side of Melbreak. The branch on the right,
which is the one to be taken, crosses the stream in the
bottom, and then continues on the opposite side of the
valley, following the latter where it bends to the right,
and, soon after this, terminating just below a circular
sheep-fold. Here you join Route Ho. 60, as mentioned
on page 233, and thenceforward proceed as in that
route.
In the earlier portion of this route are some admir-
able points of view, a notice of which will be found at
the end of Route 64.
(a) If it is wished to take Scale Force also in the way, follow
the rough track at the foot of Melbreak, on the west shore of the
lake, until you reach the hollow between Melbreak and Red Pike,
the peaked mountain next to it. Here, a well-marked path leads
up to the Force, which lies in the ravine between the two cliffs of
Red Pike, some distance up on the opposite side of the hollow.
From Scale Force, you then proceed as in Route 60, page 232.236
Ped. Route, No. 62: Scarf Gap.
[Sec. 5.
ROUTE LXII.
For Hotels and Inns, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 6.
Buttermere to Wastdale, by Scare Gap, Upper
Ennerdale, and Black Sail. — At Buttermere
Church, take the right-hand road, which keeps at some
height above the lake until Hasness House is passed,
and then descends to the water’s edge at the head of
the lake. Here, looking across the lake, the mountain
fronting you is High Crag ; and Scarf Gap is the low-
est point in the depression immediately to the left of
it. The bridle-road over the pass will be seen zigzag-
ging up the grass slope at the foot of High Crag, and
then slanting away left, at first by the side of a low
wall in the direction of the “ Gap.”
To reach this road, skirt the head of the lake, passing
through a narrow plantation which fringes it, until you
reach the second of two streams which run into the
upper end of the lake. The first stream descends from
the left-hand branch of the upper valley, where the
Borrowdale car-road may be seen painfully climbing
the pass on the left of the bold cliff of Honister Crag.
This first stream may usually be crossed on the shingle
beach close to the lake; but there is a bridge if re-
quired, a little way up it. The second stream flows
into the lake at the foot of High Crag, having descended
from the broad basin lying on the right of Honister.
There is more water in this stream, and it is necessary
to keep along the meadow by its side until a bridge is
reached, opening with a gate on the foot of the Scarf
Gap road. The track of the latter is excellently marked
throughout, and there is now no difficulty until you
reach the summit-level of the pass, and look over into
the deep hollow of Ennerdale on the other side, where
it is desirable to take the “bearings.” Do not, how-
ever, do so from the summit, but cross it, and descend
for some distance, thus bringing into view the Enner-Part 3.J
Ped. Route, No. 62: The Liza.
237
dale stream, which, we may observe, is called the Liza.
You then soon reach a point from which, looking left-
wards up the valley, you see on the opposite side of the
Liza a circular sheep-fold, with some low grassy humps
above it. Here stop to observe the points. The fine
mountain, with a cairn, occupying the right-hand upper
corner of the valley, and throwing off a spur which
closes in the vale-head, is, unmistakeably enough, Great
Gable. The next mountain down the valley to Great
Gable is Kirk Fell: a long flat-topped range, consider-
ably lower than the “ Gable.” Immediately fronting
you, projected rather in advance of the line of Kirk
Fell, is a still lower height, with a round grass top,
and cairn ;—a spur of the Pillar, the mountain with
precipitous sides which lies still lower down on the
right, on the opposite side of the valley. Between
Great Gable and Kirk Fell is a very marked depression
or grass ridge of some width, which looks as if it ought
to be the Black Sail Pass, but which is not. That pass
lies out of sight in the narrow hollow on the right of
Kirk Fell;—between the latter mountain and the grass
spur of the “ Pillar ” which we have just mentioned,
slanting up from left to right between the two.
Through the lower part of this hollow a lateral stream
descends, joining the Liza near the sheep-fold above
mentioned ; and, at some height above the fold, the
Black Sail road may be traced alongside of this lateral
stream, having the latter on its left hand, with a soli-
tary tree (a) just opposite to it.
To reach this, descend from the point of view where
we have been standing, and follow the track, which is
well marked, to the bank of the Liza fronting the
sheep-fold. Some miners’ huts are passed on the left
here, which, although uninhabited, will afford shelter
(a) It is incorrect to speak of this, as is sometimes done, as the
only tree in Upper Ennerdale. There are several others, all stand-
ing detached.238
Ped. Route, No. 62: Black Sail. [Sect. 5.
in cases of extremity. But the extremity must be very
extreme to prevent the tourist descending the valley
to the comfortable Anglers’ Inn on Ennerdale Lake,
instead of occupying these dirty quarters. Before
crossing the Liza, it is necessary to find a place to do
so, which is by no means easy, even in ordinary
weather. A few minutes’ saunter up its banks, how-
ever, will be amply repaid by the magnificent grouping
of the mountains which enclose this secluded vale-head.
Desolate as it is, it competes in boldness and variety of
form with any other in the district.
Whatever point may be selected for crossing the Liza,
return to the circular sheep-fold, or at any rate to the
grass humps above it, and ascend by them until you come
opposite to the solitary tree above mentioned, having
between it and you the lateral stream, also noticed
above, and which flows down from the cliffs of Kirk
Fell. At this point, the bridle-road becomes plainly
marked, and continues so to the summit-level of the
pass, keeping the lateral stream just mentioned close on
the left for some distance, and then, when the stream
trends away left towards Kirk Fell, making some sharp
curves in a direction towards the right, which soon
bring you to the top. The second of these curves,
which might be a little puzzling, is marked by a pile
of stones.
From the summit, the road descends at once on the
other side into Mosedale, one of the two heads of upper
Wastdale. It is easily followed the whole way, crossing
over at first from the broken cliff of the Kirk Fell
side to a sloping grass bank which occupies the centre
of the valley, and then returning to Kirk Fell, which
it skirts, between the mountain and the stream, until it
joins the Wastdale road a little above W. Ritson’s inn.
For Wastdale see Section 6.
It should be added, that the ascent of the “Pillar”
from Ennerdale or Buttermere, is best made by fol-Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 62 : The Tillar.
239
lowing Black Sail to its summit-level. You then turn to
the right, and ascend without difficulty to the grass
table-land which forms the summit of the mountain ;
passing en route the projecting crag which from the
bottom of the valley has some resemblance to a pillar,
and has given its name to the entire mass. The rock
has been climbed by various adventurers whose names
are said to be deposited in a bottle there. The attempt
obviously requires a finished cragsman. At any rate, it
is likely enough to make one. From the Pillar, it is
easy to follow the mountain chain to “the Steeple,”
which stands rather back from Ennerdale. Its name is
derived from a projection in a spur of the mountain,
supposed to bear some resemblance to a church steeple.
ROUTE LXIII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
From Ennerdale Lake, by Floutern Tarn and
Scale Force to Buttermere. — From the front
door of the Angler’s Inn at the lower end of the lake,
take the road to your left, leading by the left shore of
the lake to its upper extremity and the head of Enner-
dale. The pass for Buttermere lies on the left of the
ravine which descends from the shoulder of the moun-
tain immediately above you having “ Herdhouse ” on
its right; but, as will be seen, there is some necessity for
attention to reach it. The road turning to the left
from the inn-door, and directed to be taken as above, is
the best and easiest, although certainly not the most
direct mode of doing so.
For a short distance, this road skirts the margin
of the lake. It then enters some enclosed fields,
where it runs under a hedge, and is then joined
by an open cart-road leading down to a white farm-
house, which will be seen on the right, between you
and the lake. Bo not go on to the farm, but turn240 Ped. Route, No. 63 : 'Floutern Tarn. [Sect. 5.
sharp to the left, following the cart-road you have just
joined up a rising ground, until it enters a lane by a
gate. Here turn left; thus, in fact, bearing away
from the pass, and in a direction towards the inn again.
But there is no help for this. At some distance you
come to a green lane on the right, turning out of that
you have been following. Take this turning, which at
no great distance on, leads into another lane of similar
character just by a gate ; and here, at last, you re-
sume the proper direction for the pass. Follow
the lane you have now joined through the gate,
and by the side of a small brook, after which it becomes
very narrow, running between two stone fences, and
then terminates. Here another gate leads out on
the open shoulder of the mountain, on the left
of the ravine observed from below. The track is only
faintly marked here ; but keep up the rising ground in
front of you, in the general direction of the ravine,
although at some distance from it. On surmounting
this rising ground, the track becomes well marked, and
you ascend without difficulty to the summit-level of
the pass, keeping the ravine stream still at some dis-
tance below you on your right. As you near the
summit, a grass peak in front of you becomes a very
marked object. The path crosses the summit-level, a
boggy plateau of some width, a little to the right of
this peak : and here Floutern Tarn comes in sight on
the opposite side, lying still more on the right, under
the cliffs of Herdhouse. The track now soon forks ;
take the right-hand path, dipping into a small ravine
with grassy sides and a bed of rushes in the bottom,
and descend by this, or just above it on the left,
until you see, at no great distance below you, a circular
sheep-fold, with the commencement of a new inclosure-
road immediately underneath it. Here the Route
erom Eknerdale to Scale Hill, No. 64, diverges ;
and here, for Scale Force and Buttermere, observe thePart 3.] Ped. Route, No. 63 : Scale JForce.
241
surrounding points as follows :—The boggy stream
flowing under you, on the right, after preserving a
straight course for some distance, bends away to the
left, and dips, with the valley, towards Scale Hill.
From the point where the stream makes this bend, a
boggy slope, of very gradual ascent, rises in front of
you, terminating in the point where Red Pike, the
mountain-chain in advance on the right, meets the
succession of grass knolls, with a singular rocky knob
at their nearest extremity, which descend from Melbreak
on the left. Over the hollow where the plateau of bog
in front terminates, and, of course, on the other
side of the Buttermere valley, are seen some trees, with
the mountain-road leading from Buttermere to Kes-
wick above them. Still above this road rises the moun-
tain known as “ Robinson —thus connecting that
name with the aboriginal races of these islands. It is
the double-ridged mountain which lies immediately in
front of the hollow you are overlooking, or a little on
its right. Scale Force lies in a ravine of Red Pike.
Having noticed the above points, make for the knob
of rock which, as already mentioned, forms the lower
extremity of the Melbreak grass-knolls ; the bog which
intervenes must be crossed in any way which may best
please the tourist. On reaching the rock, a path will
be found below it, by which descend, keeping the stream
on your right, until you are opposite to Scale Force, up
to which the right-hand branch of the path leads. For
the Force, see page 232.
To proceed to Buttermere from the fall, cross a stile
in the wall on its opposite side, and descend alongside
the wall for some distance ; nearly, but not quite, to
the level of the main stream of the valley, which, as
will bd^ seen, runs between Melbreak and Red Pike.
There is no reliable track here; but, on nearing the
stream, turn to the right, and make your way over
the broken ground in a direction parallel with the
Q242
Ped. Route, No. 63 : Buttermere. [Sect. 5.
stream, and of course without crossing the latter. Keep
this direction until a sheep-fold is reached, a short dis-
tance beyond which, turn to the right, bearing away
rather from the stream, but still keeping under the hill,
and resisting all suggestions to round over its shoulder
in the direction of Buttermere. If this direction is
carefully pursued, it leads to a clump of holly and
other bushes, nearly opposite a small island on this side
of Crummock Water. Here a path will be found, keep-
ing under the lower slopes of Red Pike, in the right
direction for Buttermere, and running parallel, at first
with Crummock Water, and afterwards with the stream
which flows into it from Buttermere Lake. The path
is faintly marked at first, but soon improves, and brings
you without difficulty to a bridge over the stream just
mentioned, crossing which, a cart-road through fields
leads up to the Fish Inn at Buttermere.
ROUTE EXIT.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section.
From Ennerdale Lake, rt Floutern Tark («),
to Scale Hill.—Proceed as in Route 63 as far as the
circular sheep-fold mentioned on page 240 as the diver-
gence of the present route. Here, for Scale Hill, follow
the new inclosure road mentioned on page 235, which
leads without difficulty to the Hounds and Hare Inn,
and Scale Hill Church, crossing the first bridge in the
valley just below the inn. Here, after passing the inn,
take the road wdiich runs on the right of the church-
yard, and follow it until it dips into the valley. You
then cross the stream which flows from Crummock
(a) If it is wished to take Scale Force en route, proceed as in
Route 63, page 239 to 241, as far as the Force. Having seen the
latter, instead of crossing the wall as directed on page 241, follow
the path down from it across the main stream of the valley, and
thence between Melbreak and the lake to Scale Hill.Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 64 : Scale Hill.
243
Water towards the Yale of Lorton, and ascend a steep
rising ground to Scale Hill Hotel.
As you round the end of Melbreak, there is a noble
view of the twin mountain summits, Grasmoor and
Whiteside, with the deeply-indented ravine which
separates them, and Crummock Water in the foreground.
Still more successful, perhaps, is the grouping of
Great Gable and the other mountains of Upper Enner-
dale, as they appear from the road near Scale Hill
Church; Crummock Water being again in the fore-
ground, and the singular hollow of Scarf Gap behind it.
•' %
n

.
SECTION VI.
WASTDALE, ESKDALE, AND THE DUDDON.
PART I.
NAMES OF INNS AND OTHER HEADS OF GENERAL
INFORMATION*
The Inns in these valleys are:
In Upper Wastdale : John Ritson’s; nearest to Sty
Head Pass. William Ritson’s ; at the foot of Mose-
dale. Both these are farm-houses; but William Rit-
son has now a license. His house is the lowest of the
first cluster of houses below John Ritson’s. There is
a pleasant fieldpath between the two houses.
At Strands, in Lower Wastdale, about a mile from
the foot of Wastwater: Strands Inn (Smith’s) on the
south of the road; and another opposite.
In Eskdale : The Wool Pack—the highest in the valley.
Masons’ Arms—at Bout, opposite Stanley Ghyll. King
of Prussia—at the junction of the Birker Fell and
Strands roads. And others lower down.
In the Dttddon Valley : Stable’s inn, at Newfield—
the highest in the valley. Traveller’s Rest and ano-
ther, at Ulpha.
All the above are small inns, although mostly clean
and comfortable, as far as their resources serve. The
Strands Inn is the most considerable in size and accom-
Q 3246
Wastdale : The Lake.
[Sect. 6.
modation. The Broughton inns, near the lower end of
the Duddon, are also comfortable ; see Section 3, page
99.
The three valleys themselves which have been grouped
together for convenience in this section are much less
visited than those previously described. Their only
direct communication with the other parts of the dis-
trict is by mountain passes, and by a solitary car-road,
of the roughest character, leading from the Little Lang-
dale valley over Wrynose to the Duddon, and thence
by Hard Knot to Eskdale. The only other access for
carriages is by ascending from the lower end of each of
these valleys successively, and returning to the same
point. To the pedestrian, indeed, this absence of
general traffic may be an attraction rather than other-
wise ; but here the want of accommodation is again a
drawback. It is not merely that the quality is humble,
both as regards fare and lodging. It is the uncertainty
of getting either one or the other at the end of a day’s
walk which forms the real difficulty.
However, it would be unpardonable in the tourist
not to pay at least a fugitive visit to these portions of
the district. Not indeed that they are of equal merit.
The lower valleys of the Esk and Duddon, although
pleasing, hardly rise beyond second-rate scenery. Their
upper sections are bolder, the head of Eskdale running
up under the crags of Scawfell Pike, while the Duddon,
from Newfield to Cockley Beck, has combinations of
rock and water only equalled in Borrowdale. But as
a whole it would probably be incorrect to speak of
either the Duddon or Eskdale as first-rate.
Wastdale, on the other hand, contains some of the
finest scenery in the district. We have ventured, in-
deed, in the Introduction to this volume, to express a
doubt whether Wastwater itself is worthy of the praise
which has been sometimes bestowed upon it. It is
difficult to feel that there is height or boldness enoughPart l.] Wastdale Head : Near Walks. 247
to carry off the monotony of its straight lines, or the
sterile ruggedness of its shores. What is merely un-
compromising is not of necessity imposing.
But there can he no doubt as to Wastdale Head.
Its competitors would probably be Upper Ennerdale,
the G-reat Langdale, and we venture to think, although
on a somewhat smaller scale, the little-visited head of
Kentmere: and it would not be easy to adjudicate be-
tween these. But whatever place might be assigned
to the other three separately, we believe Wastdale
would always be classed the second. The rival masses
of Scawfell Pike and Great Gable, between which the
road climbs painfully to the Sty Head Pass; and the
beautiful basin of Mosedale, which opens on the left of
Wastdale Head, hemmed in by an amphitheatre of
stately mountains, constitute as noble a view as it is
possible to look upon.
Wastdale Head Walks.—Of these, the ascents of
Scawfell Pike, Great Gable, and the Pillar, are given in
the following Pedestrian Routes. See Nos. 65, 66, and
68. The Steeple is best ascended from Windy Gap, a
neck of land at the head of Mosedale uniting that moun-
tain with the Pillar, the latter being on the right of
the neck and the Steeple on the left. The Sty Head,
Black Sail, and Burnmoor Passes are also given in the
following routes : see Nos. 67, 68, and 70. One of the
best general views of Wastdale Head is obtained from
the Burnmoor road ; and if the tourist can so arrange
it, and can ensure a fine day for the purpose, we should
advise his approaching Wastdale on this side, taking
the Pedestrian Route, No. 28, or some portion of it.
The portion of this route which lies between Eskdale
and Wastdale will be found on pages 113 to 115. If,
however, the valley has been reached from some other
quarter, a walk should be taken to the huts on this
Burnmoor road as directed in the commencement of
Route No. 70. The walks from Strands to be presently248	Wastdale Head : The Church. [Sect. 6.
noticed are also of course within reach from Wastdale
Head: in fact, some of them lie nearer -to that end of
the valley. The above, however, are very far from ex-
hausting the subject; and the tourist who is fortunate
enough to secure quarters at the Ritson’s will find that
he has materials for high-class mountain work in every
direction.
It remains to add a few words of special notice as to
the two brothers whose names have been just men-
tioned. It is to the writer’s own loss that he has never
had the opportunity of becoming personally acquainted
with either of them. But he may doubtless so far
plagiarize as to transcribe from other pages the testi-
mony which speaks of these worthy Cumbrians as
among the most intelligent and amusing companions
in the district. In fact, amidst many divergences of
opinion on lake topics, there appears to be a general
consent as to the merits both of William and John
Ritson, and the cleanliness and comfort, as far as its
resources extend, of the accommodation supplied by
them. The tourist must of course not look for an
hotel, or anything like one. The houses were origin-
ally mere farms, and their inn character is only a graft
upon this ; induced, no doubt, by the oft-recurring
necessities of wearied and benighted tourists, to whom
the additional six miles to Strands would have been as
the voyage of Menelaus to that sea from which even
the birds come not home within the year.
Wastdale Head itself consists of eight houses, and
one of the smallest churches in England. Its iron-
studded door reaches to the eaves, and the three-lighted
mullioned window in its north side is a full fourth of
the entire length. The cluster in which William
Ritson’s house stands is called “ Row.” John Ritson
is subject to serious attacks of illness, but they
seem in no way to interfere with the comfort of his
guests.Part i.]
Wastdale : The Screes.
249
Steakds.—The lake will of course be the first object
of a visitor here. Its lower extremity is reached in
about a mile from the village, passing the grounds of
Wastdale Hall on the way. In addition to what has
been said of it above, page 246, it should be stated that
it is about four miles in length and half a mile broad.
It is the deepest of the lakes, and has rarely been known
to be frozen. Its chief claim to notice rests in the
Screes on its east bank, which, although in reality
pitched at a less sharp angle than they look to be, are
steep enough to form a bold and imposing feature.
The colouring of their sides, and the vividness of the
lights thrown upon them by an afternoon sun, are often
incredibly beautiful. There is something noble too in
the oblique march—if we may use the term—by which
Seatallan, Yewbarrow, and the other mountains on
the west shore of Wastwater, advance upon the line of
the lake. Wastdale is less rainy than might have been
supposed from its situation ; but it is swept by terrific
gusts of wind, which lift the water from the lake in
sheets of spray upwards of twenty feet above its surface.
These gusts on top of the Screes have been known to
be so powerful that stones thrown over the side have
been carried back again. In the early autumn of 1861
a violent storm fell upon Wastwater, opening out an
entirely new “ghyll” in the Screes.
It should be added, that a still better view of the
lake than that from the road is obtained by ascending
Wood How Knot, a rocky hill about five minutes dis-
tant, on the left of the road between Strands and Wast-
dale Hall. You approach it through the farm-yard
between Gale Syke and the lake, passing through a
small coppice. The turning is opposite to the fieldpath
leading to the Irt.
The ascent of Buckbarrow Pikes, the two craggy
summits in which the mass of Seatallan terminates on
the south-east, is also to be recommended. It is neces-250
Wastdale : Bowderdale.
[Sect. 6.
sary to take them in the rear, as they offer a mass of
precipice on any other side. The view seaward from
these Pikes is extremely good.
Another walk on the west shore of the lake leads up
to G-reendale Tarn, between Seatallan and Middlefell
(a). There is good fly fishing in the stream all the
way up. The tarn shewn on the map under the Steeple
is called Scote Tarn, the stream from which joins the
lake at Netherbeck Bridge. This tarn is rather of a
boggy order, and the walk to it is not particularly
interesting. You ascend in the first instance by the
stream which is crossed at Overlech Bridge, and which
flows from another, and smaller, tarn, also indicated on
the map, and called Bowderdale Low Tarn. Bowder-
dale Farm is then reached, from which you ascend the
rising ground behind it, and then dip on the left to
the Scote Tarn stream and follow it up to the
latter. This tarn is fished with an otter, and large
quantities of fish taken. Bowderdale Low Tarn, like
its neighbour, is swampy and uninteresting in itself,
but has some good trout. The “ Haycocks,” above
Scote Tarn, are easily reached, and have a good view
sea-ward.
Lastly, from Overbeck Bridge just mentioned you
reach Door Head ; a ridge of serrated crags lying im-
mediately on the left of Yewbarrow, and overlooking
the hollow of Mosedale (b) and the Black Sail pass in
one direction, and the long ascent of Sty Head in the
other. The double views thus gained, with the wild-
ness and solitude of the scene, make the eyrie one of
the most attractive that can be reached amons^ these
mountains. To ascend to this spot, Bowderdale Farm
is passed in the first instance. After this, the stream
to be followed is not that flowing from Bowderdale
Low Tarn, or any other stream on the same side, but
(a)	See note on page 249.
(b)	See note on page 249.Parti.] Wastdale: Latterbarrow Pike.	251
the one which runs immediately under Yewbarrow,
having it on its right throughout. Keep close by this
stream, and on reaching the head of the valley formed
by it ascend the rising ground in fgpnt of you, still
keeping the crags of Yewbarrow close above you on
the right. This leads up immediately to Door
Head.
Returning to Strands, the most obvious excursion is
that to Latterbarrow Pike, on the south-east of the
village, from whichWastwater shews to infinitely greater
advantage than from any other point. The lake loses
its straightness, running in indented lines to the bold
pyramid of Great Gable, the foot of which it seems
from this point to bathe. Yewbarrow also looks
extremely imposing from this summit, forming, with
Lingmell opposite, a stately mountain setting for the
more distinct peaks of Kirk Fell and the Gable; while
the Screes add their superb coloring to the foreground.
Altogether, Latterbarrow presents the lake under con-
ditions which almost surprise the tourist out of the
comparatively low estimate he might be disposed to
form by the water’s edge.
The ascent of the Screes themselves is also one of
interest. The view is inferior, as a whole, to Latter-
harrow ; but there is something very impressive and
weird-like in the black water into whose depths you
look down immediately under your feet. The best way
of reaching the Screes is by Hawl Ghyll, one of the
ravines in the chain which forms the southern dip of
the Screes range. As you stand by the Strands Inn,
Hawl Ghyll is the nearer of the two ravines descending
above the plantation seen from that point. It is a
beautiful object in itself, its rock-walls painted with
the most vivid colours, between which the stream
descends into its chasm in a triple shoot of bright
water. The ascent is made on the east side of the
ravine.252
Wastdale : The Irt.
[Sect. G
In addition to the above, there are some pleasing
walks by the river Irt, the fishing of which is much
improved since the salmon-trout have been secured
against the wholesale poaching previously common.
Seascale Station is on the coast-line, about seven miles
distant. St. Bees’ Head is an imposing object from
the beach adjoining the station ; and in clear weather
the graceful outline of the Isle of Man also forms part
of the view.
PART II.
LIST OF CARRIAGE, CAE, AND OTHEE EOADS, NOT GIVEN IN
THE FOLLOWING PEDESTEIAN EOUTES.
This list is a short one, as will be seen from the above
general notice of these valleys. It comprises the follow-
ing roads only :—
(a)	From Wastdale Head, by Wastwater, Strands,
Calder Abbey, and Ennerdale Bridge, to Scale Hill
and Keswick. This is described, in reverse, page
185.
(b)	From Wastdale Head, by Wastwater and
Strands, to Eskdale. Thence by Hard Knot and
Wrynose to Grasmere or Ambleside ; or, over Bir-
ker Fell; to the Lower Duddois and Broughton or
Coniston, or, by the Upper Duddon and Wrynose
to Grasmere and Ambleside. There is nothing re-
quiring notice between Strands and Eskdale. On
reaching the latter, if the Hard Knot road is taken,
you pass two waterfalls of unequal merit, Stanley Ghyll
and Birker Force, for which see page 113. The group-part 2.] Carriage Roads : Eskdale, The Baddon. 253
ing of the mountains at the head of Eskdale, and on
the descent from the Hard Knot Pass, will not fail to
be admired. The rest of the road, from Wrynose to
Grasmere or Ambleside, is described, in reverse, on
pages 52 to 56. A further variant of the above
route may be found by quitting the Hard Knot road
at the highest farm in Eskdale, and following that val-
ley to its head, keeping the crags of the Scawfell range
close on your left all the way. The ridge fronting you
as you ascend the upper valley is the “ top of Esk
House,” connecting the Scawfell chain on the left with
Hanging Knot, the westernmost continuation of Bow
Fell, on the right. There is no difficulty in climbing
“ Esk House,” which consists of a grass plateau of some
breadth. On reaching the top, you have immediately
in front of you, on the other side of this plateau, the
rocky slopes, strewn with debris, of Allen Crag; and
immediately underneath these are the three hillocks on
Esk House referred to on pages 92, 219, and 94.
Crossing over to these, you may then either proceed to
Keswick, as directed on page 92, or to Great Langdale
and Grasmere as on page 219. Or you may return by
Sty Head to Wastdale as on page 94.
If the Birker Fell road is taken, which presents no
special feature in itself, the Duddon valley is reached
at Ulpha (“Oopha”). From this point, the road to
Broughton, if that alternative is taken, is noticed on
page 57, and that to Coniston on page 104. The
road up the valley to Cockley Beck and Wrynose is
described, in reverse, pages 56 and 57.
(c) The coast railway, northward to Whitehaven,
Cockermouth, and Keswick ; or southward to Brough-
ton, and thence either to Coniston, or to Dalton, Fur-
ness Abbey, and Ulverston. From Ulverston there are
coaches to the lower end of Winandermere, or you
continue by railway to Windermere Station or Lan-
caster.254 Ped. Route, No. 65 : Scawfell Pike. [Sect. 6.
The stations on this line from the three valleys com-
prised in the present section are as follows:—For
Wastwater and Wastdale : Seascale Station, about
seven miles from Strands. For Eskdale : Drigg Sta-
tion, about eight miles from Bout. For the Duddon:
Broughton Station.
PART III.
PEDESTRIAN ROUTES CONTINUED.
ROUTE LXY.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Sections 2 and 5.
Ascent oe Scaweell Pike erom Wastdale Head,
WITH DESCENT EITHER TO BORROWDALE (FOR KeS-
wick) or to Great Lanodale eor Grasmere or
Ambleside.—Follow the road of the Sty Head Pass
(a) as far as John Ritson’s farm, which, as mentioned
on page 245, lies in the cluster of houses nearest to the
foot of this pass, not far from the head of the Upper
Wastdale valley. William Ritson’s house is in the
row next below this ; see page 245. There is a field-
path between William and John Ritson’s houses, which
should be taken.
At the first turning on the right, above John
Ritson’s, a green lane between stone fences leads
across the valley in the direction of Lingmell, the
mountain which forms the right-hand wall of Upper
Wastdale, and the main buttress, on this side, of Scaw-
fell Pike. The latter is not seen from the valley below.
(«) See note at the end of this route.Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 65 : Lingmell. 255
Following this lane, and crossing the bridge over the
heck, you see on the shoulder of Lingmell immediately
above you a torrent flowing in a deep gully. Below
this torrent are two converging walls, running up the
shoulder in the same direction as itself; and these
walls meet in a sharp apex on the bank of the gully
which, as you look towards it, is on your right. Make
for this gully, on the side opposite to that on which the
two walls meet, and ascend the shoulder, as far as the
nature of the ground will admit, alongside of this gully,
keeping it on your right hand throughout. When it
gets confused towards the top with the beds of other
streams, the same general direction may be kept by
taking a line from that of the bridge crossed below ;
and, on ascending still higher, by keeping due in your
back Kirk Fell, the mountain immediately on the left
of Great Gable, on the other side of Wastdale. This
ascent lands you on a grass plateau, with only the hol-
low in which Wastdale lies now visible behind you.
In front is a fine peak, which, however, is not Scawfell
Pike, but its right-hand neighbour Scawfell. On your
left is a mass of rock debris descending from the ex-
tremity of the upper ridge of Lingmell. A low wall is
soon reached, running transversely to the direction you
have been taking, and afterwards ascending the Ling-
mell upper ridge. Go through this wall, and make for
the rock debris, skirting close round by its foot. This
brings you in front of the entire Scawfell range ; the
“ Pike ” being the square-topped mountain immediately
on the left of the rocky peak first seen. Its actual
summit, with the cairn upon it, is out of sight ; and
altogether it looks, from this point, very inferior to
Scawfell. On the left of the Pike is a third, and more
round-topped, mountain ; while between you and the
Pike is a grass hollow, running down under Scawfell
proper in the direction of Wastwater.
If these points have been carefully observed, there256 Ped. Route, No. 65 : Scaufell Pike. [Sect. 6.
will be little difficulty to the top. The point to be
first made for is the left lower end of “the Pike,”
where a grass slope will be seen with a ridge of rocks
slanting up from it to the right. Cross the hollow
bottom in front of you to this grass slope, and ascend
it until you reach the ridge of rock. Here turn to the
right, and continue ascending behind the ridge. At
this point, a series of “ guiding-stones ” begins, and is
continued to the summit. They must be carefully
attended to, as the direction of the route changes after
ascending behind the rocky ridge just mentioned. It
will be seen, that the line indicated by the stones bends
at first still to the right, although less decidedly than
in the part behind the ridge ; and then makes a sharp
turn to the left, bringing Wastwater in a line directly
behind you. This latter direction leads, with some
slight variations well marked by the stones, to the
cairn on the summit.
To descend either to Great Langdale or Borrowdale,
observe the points in the view before you as you look
northward from the cairn ; having, that is, on your left
the upright stake which will be seen on the Lingmell side
of the cairn, and on your right the larger of the two
groups of huts erected for the Ordnance survey. Placing
yourself thus, and looking to the north, you have in
front three distinct summits of the Scawfell range.
The nearest, No. 1, is entirely covered with huge blocks
of stone. Immediately behind it is Great End, No. 2,
also covered with blocks of stone, but higher than
No. 1. To the right both of Nos. 1 and 2, but united
to the latter by a low grass ridge, is the third summit,
No. 3. Ascending this No. 3 will be seen a fairly-
marked track ; the way to which is over a low neck
which connects the Pike, where you are standing, with
No. 1 ; then across No. 1, keeping rather to the right
of its highest point, and then dipping into a hollow be-
tween Nos. 1 and 3. There is a well-marked track,
with guiding-stones, all the way.Part 3.] Ped. Route, No. 65 : Scawfell Pile. 257
Following this track, and ascending from the hollow
between Nos. 1 and 3 to the path previously seen on
the latter, you reach a level grass plateau, where the
path bends to the left, crossing the plateau about its
centre, in a line direct for No. 2, or “Great End.”
This brings you to two large piles of broken rock,
rather on your right hand ; and between these you de-
scend over the rock, carefully attending to the bearing
of the guiding-stones. On emerging from between
these two rocky piles, take a further observation in
front. It will be seen that here you have below you
another, although smaller, rocky mass, with a second
grass plateau between it and you. Above this rises the
long debris-strewn mass of Great End, slanting down
from left to right. Over the lower slant of Great End
rises another craggy summit, Allen Crag ; and imme-
diately below this are two very marked scars in the
grass slope at its foot, joining each other at the bottom,
and caused by the action of water on the grass, which
has left a red “scree.” This is the point to be made
for. The path crosses the grass plateau to the near
mass of rock just seen, and descends on the left of it. It
then crosses a small stream, and skirts the debris at the
base of Great End ; and from this you descend to an
open grassy track known as the “ top of Esk House,”
running with no great variation of level from Great End
to Allen Crag, previously seen. The path ceases here, but
the two red scars are in sight, and on reaching these
you are close to the “three hillocks on Esk House”
referred to in Route 23, page 92, and in Route No. 54,
page 219. If it is wished to proceed to Borrowdale
and Keswick, you cross to the right-handmost of these
hillocks, and then proceed as on page 92. If descend-
ing to Great Langdale and Grasmere or Ambleside, you
proceed as on page 219.
Note.—The above direct ascent from Wastdale Head
is advisedly given in lieu of the long detour by the
R258 Ped. Route, No. 65 : Scawfell Pike. [Sec. 6.
Burnmoor road. Some direct ascents are too steep and
rough to be recommended : but this hardly falls under
the category. Should, however, the tourist be indis-
posed for so hard a pull at starting, he may follow the
more beaten track, which is as follows:—Proceed by
the Burnmoor road, as given in Route No. 70, until
you come to the common with the three gates at its
farther end which will be found mentioned on page
264 at the commencement of that route. Here, take
the gate on the left hand, which leads to a track running
up the shoulder of the mountain (Lingmell) imme-
diately above you. The track is clearly seen from be-
low, ascending this shoulder in zigzags, on the left of a
wall. Follow this road to the top of the shoulder, on
reaching which you look over into a deep lateral valley,
into which the wall dips. This lateral valley separates
you from Scawfell;—not Scawfell Pike, the real sum-
mit, which is the next ridge on the left of Scawfell.
There is now no alternative but to quit the wall, and
ascend another, and very steep, shoulder which rises
above you on the left. This ascent is thus at right
angles to your previous direction, the cliff which de-
scends into the lateral valley being kept close to you
on your right. On completing this latter ascent, you
land on a nearly flat plateau of moor. Keep along this,
with the cliff still close on your right hand, until you
come in sight of the rocky hill which forms the south-
western extremity of the Lingmell upper ridge, having
masses of rock debris at its foot. Make for the base of
this, and it will then be seen, by reference to page 255
in the above route, that you are at the same point as
already described on that page. From this point, the
direction already given will therefore serve to the
summit.
In addition to what has been above said, a further
caution may be usefully given;—not to improvise an
amended edition of the present route, either as given inPart 3.] Fed. Route, No. 66: Great Gable.
259
the text or in this note, by ascending Seawfell proper
with the view of continuing over it to “the Pike.”
The first part of the undertaking is feasible enough, as
Seawfell descends with an easy slope upon Burnmoor
Tarn described in Route 70, and you have only to walk
up it from thence. But between Seawfell and Seawfell
Pike lies a face of bare rock which even the Alpine club
would decline to attack without ropes. The name of
this impediment, or rather of the chasm between the
two summits, is Mickledore. Of course, if the tourist
should by accident find himself on Seawfell, the Pike
may be reached by a detour.
It should be further added, that the ascent of Scaw-
fell Pike from Wastdale Head, whichever of the two
routes here given may be selected, is far less interesting
than that by the “top of Esk House,” where the as-
cents from Grasmere and Keswick converge. It would
be almost better, if time admits, to proceed from Wast-
dale Head, by Sty Head and Sprinkling Tarn, to the
top of Esk House as in Route 69, and thence to the
summit as in Route 47, page 201.
ROUTE LXVI.
For Inns, see Part 1 of this Section.
Ascent of Great Gable from Wastdale Head.
—This route is the same as No. 67 as far as the Sty
Head Pass and Tarn. Here refer to Route 26, page
96, and proceed as there directed from the same point,
taking care to descend past the tarn in the first in-
stance, instead of following any earlier track direct
from the summit-level of the pass. See note on page
96.
ROUTE LXVII.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 5.
From Wastdale Head to Borrowdale and
Keswick by Sty Head.—Wastdale at its upper end260
Ped. Route, No. 67: Sty Head.
[See. C.
forks into two branches, the Stj Head lying in the
right-hand branch. It is seen from all parts of the
valley painfully toiling up under the crags of Great
Gable, and there is no difficulty (a), either in the ascent
or descent, beyond the physical labour required, and
the aggravations incident to an hour’s climb over loose
rough stones. The latter may be intensified, if wished,
by ascending the pass with an afternoon September’s
sun in your back. Sty Head Tarn, which the road
passes on top, is a very effective element in the scene;
gloomy and stern, but full of wild beauty. For Borrow-
dale and Keswick, see Section 5, pages 170 to 177.
route lxviii.
For Hotels and Inns, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 5.
From Wastdale Head to Upper Ennerdale, rt
Black Sail, and thence by Scarf Gap, to Butter-
mere and Scale Hill.—Leave William Ritson’s,
page 245, on the side of the house which faces to Mose-
dale, the deep valley which forms the leftmost of the
two branches into which Wastdale forks at its upper
extremity (b). Do not cross the bridge opposite to
William Ritson’s, which only leads out on the fells, but
keep along the Sty Head road, with the stream close
on your left, for a short distance. The main valley and
road then bend away to the right, towards Mr. John
Ritson’s and the upper end of Wastdale. Here, for
(a)	Between William and John Ritson’s, the fieldpath men-
tioned on page 245 should be taken.
(b)	If staying at John Ritson’s, page 245, instead of turning to
the left at the farm, which would lead down to William Ritson’s
and Wastwater, follow the green lane in front of the house for a
few yards, and then take the first gate on the right. This leads
into some fields, which you cross, and then, skirting round the
lower part of the shoulder between you and Mosedale, join the road
above described by Mosedale Beck. Be careful, in skirting this
shoulder, not to get up at all high on the mountain.Parts.] Ped. Route, No. 68: Black Sail.
261
Black Sail, take the left-hand road, which ascends a
rising ground, and rounds into the Mosedale valley by
the side of a wall, keeping the stream still on its left.
At some distance on, the main Mosedale stream bends
away considerably to the left, running up under “ the
Pillar;”—the square mass of mountain, with a rounded
summit rising from its left extremity, which here fronts
you. From the lower right-hand extremity of the
Pillar projects a grass shoulder, or tongue ; and on the
right of this tongue, between it and Kirk Fell, the next
mountain to Great Gable, flows another stream, which
eventually joins the main Mosedale stream. Here the
track quits the main valley, making for the grass tongue
just mentioned, which it ascends. It then turns to the
right, and ascends under the slopes of Kirk Fell to the
right-hand corner of the valley. It is well marked
throughout.
On crossing the summit-level, you look over into
Upper Ennerdale ; and, as you begin to descend, a
lateral stream is soon seen on your right, flowing in a
deep rocky channel from the cliff of Kirk Fell opposite,
and finally joining the Liza, as the main stream of the
Ennerdale valley is called. This lateral stream forms
an additional guide in the descent. The road, which
continues well marked, at first bends to the left, away
from this lateral stream; but it soon returns to it, and
keeps alongside the stream, keeping it on its right
hand, until the bottom of the main valley is reached.
Some little distance before this, at a point opposite a
solitary tree on the other side of the lateral stream, you
see the corner of a sheep-fold on the near bank of the
Liza, lying under a low grass knoll. On the bank of
the Liza opposite to the fold, the Scarf Gap road is
seen. At first, this follows the course of the Liza,
passing some miners’ huts (a), and continuing by the
(a) See page 237.
R 3262
Ped. Route, No. 68: Scarf Gap. [Sect, e-
side of the stream to a point just beyond a large de-
tached block of stone which will be seen there. Prom
this point, the road for Lower Ennerdale and the lake
continues down the stream. That for Scarf Gap as-
cends the shoulder of the mountain immediately above,
climbing it in some well-marked zigzags. The gap
itself is an exceedingly well-defined notch in the lowest
depression of the mountain range opposite you.
From the point opposite the solitary tree, from which
the above observation will have been taken, there is of
course no difficulty in following the track to the zig-
zags just mentioned; excepting, indeed, such as is
caused by the difficulty of finding a dry crossing over
the Liza, which very easily becomes flooded. The zig-
zags continue to the summit-level of “the Gap;” and
from this a rough bridle-road descends to a bridge
which will be seen in the Buttermere valley below you,
crossing the nearest stream in the valley. On the other
side of this bridge, do not follow the farm-road in front
of you, leading across the meadows to Gatesgarth, but
turn to the left, and keep by the bank of the stream
until you reach a narrow plantation which skirts the
upper end of the lake. Following this plantation, or
the shingle beach of the lake, you cross a second, and
smaller, stream, and then join the Buttermere car-road
at the point where it strikes the corner of the lake. If
this second stream cannot be crossed at the beach, a
bridge will be found a short distance up.
ROUTE LXIX.
For hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 2.
From Wastdale Head to Great Langdale,
Grasmere, or Ambleside, by Sty Head and the
top oe Esk House.—As far as the top of the Sty
Head Pass, proceed as in Route 67, page 259 ; there is,
in fact, no difficulty. From the summit-level, descendPart 3.] Fed. Route, No. 69: Sprinkling Tarn. 263
a few yards on the Borrowdale side, and then turn off
at right angles from the track previously followed,
which continues past Sty Head Tarn. At the point
where the road is to be quitted you have in front of
you, looking eastward, the slopes descending from Great
End, which forms the northern buttress of the Scawfell
range. Between you and these slopes is a plateau of
moor of no great width, with some rocky hillocks upon
it; and underneath these hillocks a grass track may be
made out without difficulty. The point is further
marked, if required, by some small stones laid on a large
flat rock, in the grass, between you and the hillocks.
Quit the Sty Head road at this point, and make for
the hillocks ; after skirting which, the path crosses
some rushy ground to the foot of the Great End rocks,
and winds round them, gradually ascending. The track
is here perfectly well-marked; and the deeply-channelled
bed of a stream descending into the upper end of Sty
Head Tarn is soon reached, which the path follows,
keeping the stream in the first instance on its left.
You then cross this stream, at a point indicated by a
pile of stones on a rock, and keep close by it on its
opposite bank, until Sprinkling Tarn is reached, from
which the stream issues. The path now skirts the
right-hand margin of the tarn, and then ascends above
it, still keeping the same direction as before, parallel
with Great End. A boggy plateau of no great extent
is now crossed, lying at the foot of the Great End
slopes, and you then reach another deeply-chiselled
stream, at the point where it makes a right angle,
bending away from Great End, and descending by the
valley which leads to Stockley Bridge and Borrowdale.
Follow the upper course of this stream, previously to
its making the bend just mentioned, and keep it on
your left hand, with Great End still above you on the
right. This brings you to another boggy slope, just
beyond where the Great End chain terminates, with a264 Fed. Route, No. 70: Burnmoor Tarn. [Sect. 6
detached rocky knoll rising on the left. Cross this hog,
passing on the right of, and underneath, the knoll, and
you then come to some further “ guiding-stones.” At
the point where these commence there is another short
rocky channel running down from three hillocks on tho
left, each with a small pile of stones upon it. There
are the “three hillocks on Esk House,” noticed in
Route 54, page 219, as the junction of the route from
Wastdale Head to Grasmere. Here, cross over to the
hillock which lies the most to the right of the three,
and then observe the points in front as described on
page 219, and thence proceed as there directed.
ROUTE LXX.
For Hotels, see Part 1 of this Section and of Section 3.
From Wastdale Head, by Burnmoor, to Esk-
DALE AND STANLEY GhYLL, AND THENCE BY THE
Duddon and Walna Scar to Coniston.—If staying
at John Ritson’s, page 245, take the fieldpath to Wm.
Ritson’s inn in the cluster of houses next below ; see
page 245. Quitting Wm. Ritson’s, take the lane on
the east, or Scawfell, side of the house, and follow it
until you reach a small green common, with three gates
at its further end. Take the middle gate, and follow
the track, which is rather rough and perplexed in parts,
over a bushy flat. The direction to be kept is that of
the Burnmoor road, which is seen in front of you as-
cending steeply on the left of Wastwater, in the gap
between the Scawfell range and the Screes. On reach-
ing the end of the flat, the track, here a mere cart-road,
ascends through some inclosed fields, keeping its pre-
vious direction, and finally leading by a gap in the
uppermost fence of the inclosure into another track
running at the foot of the mountain. Following this,
you soon join the steep part of the Burnmoor road be-
fore seen. On reaching the summit of this ascent,
Burnmoor Tarn comes in sight, with the road wellParts.] Ped. Route, No. 70: Stanley Ghyll. 265
marked on its left margin ; and there is no difficulty to
this point:—for a short distance the road is a mere
foot-track in the grass.
After leaving the margin of the lake, the road rises,
and there are then several tracks in the grass ; take the
one most on the left, parallel with the stream flowing
from the tarn. At some further distance on, the road,
which is here almost lost in bog-, dips to the beck, fol-
lows it for a few yards, and then crosses it by a wooden
foot-bridge. It then descends by the stream, keeping
it on the right throughout, and at first inclining towards
Scawfell, to avoid some boggy ground. The road is
a mere grass-track here, but there is no difficulty; and
a farm soon comes in sight, about three-quarters
of a mile on. Below this, a cart-road takes you into
the main Eskdale road, which you enter through a
gate on the left of a bridge. Here turn left, which
brings you to the Mason’s Arms at Bout, a small inn.
Passing this, you come to four cross roads with a
direction post. Take the road on the right hand
(to “Whitehaven”); and then, soon afterwards,
opposite a school-house, take the left turning, which
leads to the bridge over the Esk. In a small
cottage over the bridge the Stanley Ghyll (a) guide
si to be found ; the fall being in private grounds,
and only accessible otherwise by trespassing. The fall
should be seen at any rate ; some of its features are
superior to any other in the district. If the guide is
not in the cottage, information may be obtained at
Dalegarth farm ; see below.
Soon after crossing the bridge, the road forks, the
right-hand branch leading to Dalegarth Hall farm.
Take that to the left, which soon ascends in zigzags,
climbing the Birker Fell chain between Eskdale and
(a) This fall is otherwise called Dalegarth Force. It is some-
times confused with Birker Force, a much inferior fall at a short
distance up the valley.266
Ped. Route, No, 70: The Dudclon. [Sect, e-
the Duddon. About a mile and a half from the Esk
Bridge, Low Ground farm is reached, there being no
difficulty in the road as far as this point (b). Soon
after passing Low Ground, take the left-hand turning,
which leads up to Birkerthwaite, the farm on the rising
ground above you on your left;—the right-hand road
continues to “High Ground” farm, and thence to
Ulpha in the Duddon valley, involving a long detour
to the foot of Walna Scar, which it is the object of the
present route to avoid. From Low Ground to Birker-
thwaite is a good farm road, but then it ceases. Pass
through the farm-buildings to the further end, and you
then see on the mountain chain fronting you two very
noticeable cliffs of rock, the higher one with a tall cairn
of stones upon it; the lower with a pyramidal hill, also
marked by a cairn, and forming one of the summits of
the chain, rising above it. From the last building in
the farm a gate leads into a field, with a path crossing
it to a stone stepstile in the wall at the further end.
Follow this, which leads out on the open moor, and
then cross the latter and ascend between the two cliffs
of rock just mentioned. On emerging from these, you
come in sight of another rocky hill, on the left of the
pyramidal hill with the cairn. Make for the point
where the slope of these two cuts. A small stream is
soon reached, descending from the same point; and
soon afterwards you find a rough track in the moor by
the side of the stream, which you keep at some distance
below you on the left, keeping up on the slopes of the
pyramidal hill to avoid the boggy ground. This leads
to the summit-level of the ridge, from which you look
down into the Duddon valley, with the well-marked
(b) If the fall has been visited, a path may he taken from it
which leads into this road about half-way up the ascent, without
the necessity of returning to the bridge. A still shorter cut may
he made, bringing you out direct to “ Birkerthwaite farm,” see
above; but it is easiest to strike the road in is ascent as above
recommended.Part a.] Ped. Route, No. 70: Neivfield.
2G7
track of Walna Scar slanting up left into a notch in
the “ Old Man ” chain on the opposite side, just above
some quarries.
To descend into the valley, cross the sloping moor
which forms the summit of the ridge, bearing for a
short distance in the direction of the Walna Scar road
just noticed ; and then bearing to the right, in the
general direction of a large rocky hump on the edge of
the lower plateau on which the ridge you are now
crossing descends, but making for a point rather to the
right of this hump. There is something of a track
here; and the point to be made for is further marked
by a wall which soon comes in sight, not on the lower
plateau, but on the edge of the ridge you are crossing.
On reaching this wall, turn to the right, and keep
along by it for a short distance, until a gate is reached.
From this gate, a tolerably marked track, although
somewhat winding, descends to and crosses the lower
plateau, reaching its edge somewhat to the right of the
humpy rock above mentioned. Here you cross a small
stream, with another gate on its further side. Going
through this, you are in a cart-road which winds down
the hill to the Duddon valley ; its first bend, after
going through the gate by the stream, is to the right.
At the foot of this road you come to a cottage, on the
other side of which are the beautiful stepping-stones
over the Duddon described on page 111. Crossing
these, you rise to a small cluster of houses composing
Seathwaite village, and are then in the main road of
the valley.
For Walna Scar, turn left at these houses, and follow
the road, which winds a good deal, to Newfield and
Seathwaite Church, with its pretty parsonage; see
page 56. Just short of the church is Mr. Stable’s
house of entertainment: the only inn in the upper
valley. After passing the church, follow the road by
Seathwaite stream, which soon afterwards begins to268 Ped. Route, No. 70 : Walna Scar. [Sect. 6.
ascend. On this ascent, it is wiser to disregard a road
turning up on the right to a farm, which looks as if it
would make a shorter cut to Walna Scar, as previously
seen. Abstaining from this short cut, and continuing
the car-road, you come to a point where the latter forks,
its left branch crossing the stream, and rejoining the
main valley of the Duddon, which had been quitted
below, and which it follows to Wrynose and Little
Langdale. For Walna Scar, take the right-hand turn,
which winds under a picturesque crag to two farms on
its further side ; here take the right-hand fork again,
passing on the left of the upper of the two farms.
From a gate just beyond this, the road is distinguish-
able to the summit of the Scar, and may be followed
without difficulty ;—a road to some quarries on the
right, which turns off as you approach the foot of the
steep leftward slant up to the col, will of . course be
avoided.
Crossing the col, which is a narrow grass ridge, the
track again slants left, descending in the direction of
the upper end of Coniston Lake, and rounding first
under a rocky knoll which forms the southern extremity
of Doe Crag ; then crossing the bed of the Torver Beck,
which descends from the Goatswater Tarn, betweer Doe
Crag and the “ Old Man ” summit; and then running,
for some distance nearly on a level, close under the
rocky eastern slopes of the Old Man. The road is
thoroughly well-marked in all this part, and may be
pursued without difficulty, bearing in mind that you
are not to dip to Coniston Lake until its upper ex-
tremity is reached, and avoiding all turns on the right
accordingly, until you have emerged from a miniature
valley lying between the Old Man slopes on the left
and some grass hillocks on the right. At this point,
the road itself bears to the right, leading away from
the Old Man and in the direction of the lake, and com-
mencing its descent to a lower grass plateau. Here, itPart 3.] Ped. Koute, No. 70 : Coniston.	269
is joined by another road from behind; while, just at
the same point, there is a last turn to the right, which
is to be avoided like its predecessors. Follow the road
over the grass plateau, parallel with the lake, and
slightly descending, until a wall is reached ; going
through a gate in which, and skirting another wall for
some distance, you reach a lane with hedges. Here,
soon afterwards, take the left-hand turning, down a
slight descent. A few yards on, you turn sharp to the
right and cross a small brook, which at a short distance
below breaks into a deep wooded dingle. Keep down
by this, keeping it on your right throughout, and you
then come to the Coniston railway Station. For the
village and hotels, take the road under the railway arch
to the left of the station, which crosses a bridge to
Coniston Church. For Coniston, see Section 3.'
,
.
	
	
	
	



INDEX
Allan Bank,		49	Blea Tarn,	56, 61, 68
Allen Crag,	91 to 93; 199 to 201; 257		Blea Water,	24,34
Ambleside,		35 to 41	Blelham Tarn,	52, 126
(And see Section 2 throughout.)			Blencathara (Saddleback)	196
Ambleside Church,		36	Bordale,	122
Ambleside to	Coniston,	52 to 54	Borrowdale,	173 to 178
» ))	the Duddon, Eskdale,		Bout,	57, 113, 265
	and Wastwater, 54		Bowderdale Farm and Tarn, 250	
JJ 99	Esthwaite & Hawks-		Bowder Stone, The,	174
	head,	51	Bowfell,	89, 91, 219
99 99	Grasmere,	57, 60, 61	Bowness,	11 to 16
99 99	Great Langdale, 58, 60		Bowness to Ambleside,	16
99 99	Hawes water	69, 70	Bowscale Tarn,	19K
99 99	Hawkshead,	51	Braith waite,	164, 226
99 99	Keswick,	61	Brantfell Road,	12
99 99	Little Langdale, 54, 60		Brathay Hall,	15
99 99	Rydal,	61	„ Valley, Bridge End,	43, 52
99 99	Troutbeck,	51		62, 221
99 99	Ullswater,	51	Brothers’ Water,	17
99 99	Windermere	, 51	Broughton,	57
99 99	Wythburn,	61	(And see Sections 3 and 6).	
Angle Tarn (Bowfell),		91, 220	Brownrigg’s Well,	197
„ (Patterdale),		128	Buckbarrow Pikes,	250
Applethwaite (Keswick),		166, 190	Bull Crag,	87, 215
Applethwaite	Common	[Winder-	Burnmoor Tarn,	114, 264
mere),	27 to 31	; 147 to 150	Butterlip How,	47
Ara Force,		124	Buttermere,	2, 179
Armboth,		63, 87, 212	„ Haws,	180
Askham,		127	„ Lake,	2, 180
Bannerdale,		122	Buttermere to Ennerdale,	184
Barf,		166	„ „ „ (mountain), 231	
Barrow House and Fall,		160, 171	„ „ Keswick,	184
Bassenthwaite, 135,		154,165, 193	„ „ Wastdale,	„ 236
Belle Isle,		12	Calder Abbey,	185
Bernard Gilpin,		21 (note)	„ Bridge,	185
Birk Fell,		120	Calgarth,	15
Birker Fell,		253	Castle Crag (Borrowdale), 159,175,204	
Birker Force		57, 113	„ (Vale of St. John’s), 64	
Birthwaite,		8	Castle Head,	160, 170
Biscay How,		12	Castle Rigg,	64, 169
Black Combe		105, 185	Catbells,	158, 162
Black Sail,	236 to 239; 260		Catchedecam,	72, 129
Blake Fell,		59	Cawsey Pike,	158, 164, 210
Bleaberry Fell,		160, 169	Clapp6rsgate,	4111.
INDEX.
Cockermouth,	184
Cockley Beck Bridge,	57
Codale Tarn,	83
Coldale,	164, 226
Colwith Bridge,	67
„ Force,	55
Coniston, 2,17, 99 to 102 (And see Section 3.)	
„ Lake,	2,100
Coniston to Ambleside,	103, 105
„ „ Broughton,	104
• „ „ Grasmere,	104
„ „ Hawkshead,	103
„ „ Strands,	105
„ „ Wastdale Head,	107
„ „ Windermere,	103
Crinkle Crags,	14, 42
Crosthwaite Church,	155, 189
Crummock Water,	2,181
Dale End (Grasmere),	40, 48
Dalegarth Hall and Force (Stanley	
Ghyll),	113,265
Derwent, The,	155,	161,	165
Derwentwater, 2, 157 to 161, 178
(And see Seotion 5.)
Dockwray,	123,	136,	225
Doe Crag,	106,	109,	268
Dovenest,	15,37
Doorhead,	250
Drigg Station,	254
Druidical Stones (Keswick),	168
Duddon, The,	56, 57, 111, 267
(And see Sections 3 and 6.)
Duddon to Wastdale Head, 110, 111
Dungeon Ghyll,	61, 76
Dunmail Raise,	50, 62, 71, 76
Eagle Crag (Borrowdale), 87, 90,
173, 175, 213
Earnont, The,	120, 127
Easedale,	50, 84, 215
Tarn,	80, 84, 216
Elleray,
Elterwater,
Ennerdale,
9, 19, 143, 150
55, 58, 67
184, 234, 261
Ennerdale to Buttermere (moun-
tain),
Scale Hill (moun-
tain),
Wastwater,
(moun-
Eskdale,
239
242
185
238
tain,
57, 112, 201, 253, 265
(And see Section 6.)
Eskdale to Wastdale Head,	114
Esk House (top of), 92, 201, 219, 257
Esthwaite Water,	102
Fairfield,	37
„ ascent of from Grasmere, 50, 73
Fairfield, ascent of from Rydal, 44, 45
Falcon Crag,	160
Fell Foot,	56, 60
Floutern Tam,	233, 240, 242
Fordendale,	128
Fox Ghyll,	39, 41
Fox How,	39
Furness Abbey,	16,	253
Fusedale,	122
Gatesgarth,	179,	262
Glaramara,	90, 91, 174, 213
Glencoin Beck,	123
Glenderaterra, The,	195
Glenridding,	123
„ Pass,	133, 221
Goats’ Water,	109,	268
Gosforth,	185
Gowbarrow Park,	117,	123
Grange, The (Borrowdale), 159,
173, 174, 204
Grasmere,	45 to 51
(And see Section 2.)
„ Church and Churchyard, 46
„ Lake,	2, 39,43
Grasmere to Ambleside,	65
Coniston,	66,67
the Duddon and Esk-
dale,	68
Great Langdale, 48, 49
„	(moun-
tain),	79
Keswick,	62
„ (by Esk House), 90
„ (by Harrop Tarn), 87
„ (by High Raise), 84
„ (bythe Stake Pass) 89
Ullswater,	51
„ (by Grisedale), 78
Wastdale (bySty Head) 94
Windermere, 51, 65, 66
Grasmoor,	158,181
„ ascent of, from Keswick,
209, 229
„	„ from Scale
Hill.	182
Great End,	91
Great Gable,
„	ascent from Grasmere
and Gt. Langdale, 96
„	ascent from Keswick,
or Rosthwaite, 204
„	ascent fromWastdale, 259
Great Langdale. See Langdale,
Greenburn Beck,	68, 107
Greendale Tarn,	250
Green Gable,	96, 184,	207
Greta, The,	64, 155,	168
Grisedale Pass,	78, 122,	132INDEX.
111.
Grisedale Pike,	164,	166
„	„ ascent of,	228
„ Tarn, 72, 79, 130, 132
„ (Coniston),	101
Hallin Fell,	120,	121
Hallsteads,	118,	120
Hanging Knot,	91,	219
Hard Knot,	57
Harrison Stickle (Langdale Pikes), 81
„	ascent of,	76,77
Harrop Tarn,	87,	218
Harter Fell,	23, 26, 27, 124
Hartsop,	131
Hayeswater,	121,	122,	131
Haycocks,	250
Haystacks,	181
Haweswater,	3, 24, 124 to 128
(And see Section 4).
Haweswater to Ambleside,	151
„	„ Ullswater (in re-
verse),	127
„	„ Windermere, 137 to 150
Hawkshead,	66,	102
Hawl Ghyll,	251
Helvellyn,	4, 62, 63
„ ascent of from Grasmere, 71,79
„	„	„	Keswick, 197
„	„	„	Ullswater, 129
„	„	„	Wythburn, 197
Helm Crag,	74
Herdhouse,	233,	239,	240
High Crag,	181
High Close,	48
High Kaise Pass,	86,	214
High Stile,	181
High Street,	15, 21, 34
„ ascent of from Ambleside, 70
„	„	„	Haweswater, 152
„	„	„	Ullswater, 131
„	„	„	Windermere, 33
Hindscarth,	158,	163,	177
Honister Crag,	177,	151,	205
Hotels, general character of,	5
How Town,	122
111 Bell,	15, 21, 33
Irt, The,	252
Johnnie Brow,	206,	207
Kentmere, 21 (note), 137, 140, 146,
147,	150
„	Hall,	21
„	Head of,	22,25
Keswick,	153 to 157
(And see Section 5).
„	Church,	155
„ Lake. See Derwentwater.
Keswick to Ambleside,	183
„	„ (mountain), 212
,,	„ Buttermere,	133
Keswick to Buttermere (m’ntain), 225
Cockermouth,	183
Grasmere,	183
„ (mountain), 212to219
Great Langdale, 212, 219
Penrith,	183
Scale Hill,	183
„ (mountain), 225, 229
Ullswater,	183
„ (mountain), 221, 223
Wastdale (Sty Head), 221
34, 128
Kidsty Pike,
Kirkstone,
„ Fell,
Lade Pot,
Langdale, Great,
Head of,
17, 126
38
34
41, 59
61, 89
90
„	to	Esk House,
„	„	Grasmere (mountain), 82
„	„	Keswick (Stake),	89
„	„	Wastdale Head,	94
Langdale, Little,	55, 58, 67, 68
„	Pikes, 3, 13, 53, 59, 60, 61
„	„ ascent of, 76,77
„ village,	59
Latrigg,	168, 186
Latterbarrow Pike,	251
Lingmell,	203,254
Ling Moor,	56, 58, 59, 61
Lion and Lamb (Helm Crag), 75
Little Langdale. See Langdale.
55
237, 261
160, 171, 172
157
40, 41, 45, 48
41, 48, 58
184
127
106
15, 17, 69
124
24, 27, 125, 128, 138
122
136
127
24 124
181, 231* 235
225
61
259
249
167
9, 13
238, 249, 261
43
41, 43, 45
124
Tarn,
Liza, The,
Lodore,
Lord’s Island,
Loughrigg Fell,
„ Tarn,
Loweswater,
Lowther Castle,
Low Water,
Lowwood,
Lyulph’s Tower,
Mardale,
Martindale,
Matterdale,
Mayborough,
Measand Becks,
Melbreak,
Mell Fell,
Mickleden,
Mickledore,
Middle Fell,
Millbeck (Keswick),
Miller Brow,
Mosedale,
Nab Cottage,
„ Scar,
Naddle Forest,IV
INDEX.
Nan Bield Pass,	23,27, 31, 138
Netherbcck Bridge,	25G
Newby Bridge,	16
Newfield,	66, 57, 110, 267
Old Man (Coniston),	99
„ ascent of, from Coniston, 105
„	„	„ Little Lang-
dale,	68
Ormathwaite House,	167,189
Orrest Head,	9
Overbeck Bridge,	250
Oxenfell,	52, 53, 66
Patterdale,	119 to 121
(And see Ullswater; and Sect. 4.)
Pavey Ark,	77,	81
Pelter Bridge,	39, 43, 45
Penrith,	127
Pike of Please,	56,	61
„ o’Stickliug,	78
Pillar, The,	238
Place Fell,	121
Pooley Bridge,	120
Portinscale,	153, 158, 161
Pull Bay,	15,	18
Kampsgill,	122
Bampsholm Island,	160
Baven Crag,	63, 64, 212
Bayrigg,	13
Bed Bank (Grasmere), 39,43, 47,48,60
Bed Pike,	181, 231
Bed Screes,	17
“Best and be thankful” seat,	48
Biggindale,	128
“ Bitson’s,”	245, 248
Bobinson,	163,181, 241
Bosset Ghyll,	89, 90, 91, 220
Bosthwaite, 87, 90, 159,174 to 178,
212, 214
Eothay, The,	39, 41, 52
Bushbearing Sunday,	36
Bydal,	42 to 45
Church,	42
Falls,	42
Hall,	42
Head,	37,44
Man,	45
Mount (Wordsworth’s),	42
Water,	43
Bydale, The,	44
Saddleback, ascent of,	194
St. John’s. See Vale.
Scale Force,	180, 231, 241, 242
Scale Hill,	181
„ to Ennerdale (m’ntain),	235
Scales Tarn,	196
Scandale,	37,38
Scarf Gap,	179, 236, 261
Scarness,	166, 193
Scawfell,	255,	259
„ Pike,	3
„	„	ascent of, from Gras-
mere and Great
Langdale,	94
„	„	ascent of, from Kes-
wick,	198
„	„	ascent of, fromWast-
dale,	254,	257
Scote Tarn,	250
Screes, The (Wastwater), 249,	251
Seascale Station,	252
Seatallan,	249
Seathwaite (Borrowdale),	176
Seathwaite Church (Duddon), 56, 110
Seatoller,	176
Seat Sandal,	79
Silverhow,	48, 49, 60
„	ascent of,	73
Skelgill,	20,37
Skelwith,	18, 52, 65
„ Force,	53
Skiddaw,	4,62
„ ascent of, from Keswick, 185
„	„ from Portin-
scale,	188 to 194
Skiddaw Dod,	192
Sleddale,	25 to 27,144 to 146
Smallwater,	24, 34, 139
Sour Milk Ghyll,	79, 84, 216
Southey’s Monument,	156
Spooney Green Farm,	167,186
Sprinkling Tarn,	93, 95, 200
Stake Pass,	89,	212
Stanley Ghyll,	57,	113, 265
Staveley,	21, 31, 32,137
Steel Fell,	62, 87
Steeple, The,	239,	247
St. Herbert’s Isle,	160
Stickle Tarn,	77,81
Stock Ghyll,	37
Stoekley Bridge,	93,	176, 198
Stonethwaite, 87, 90,159, 163, 175,
212, 214
Strands,	245; 248 to 252
„ (Car Koads and Bailway
from),	252 to 254
Striding Edge,	72,	129, 130
St. Sunday’s Cliff,	123
Sty Head,	96
„ Pass,	221, 259
„ Tarn,	95,	221,260
Styx,	134,	222
Swinside,	164,	210
Swirrel Edge,	72,	129
Thirlmere,	3, 62, 63, 87, 212
Threlkeld,	178,	196
„ Tarn,	196INDEX.
V.
Tilberthwaite,	54, 67, 101, 107
Top of Esk House,	92
Traveller’s Rest,	17
Troutbeek Foot-bridge,	10,19
„	tongue,	331
„	valley, 16, 27, 33, 143
„	village,	69,151
Ulls water,	1,117 to 124
(And see Section 4.)
Ullswater to Ambleside,	126
„	„ Grasmere (by Grise-
dale),	132
„	„ Haweswater,	127
„	„ Keswick,	126
„	„	» (by Dockwray), 135
„	„	,, (by Glenridding), 133
„	„ Penrith,	127
„	„ Windermere,	126
Ulpha,	57, 104,105,110
Ulverston,	7,16
Vale of Lorton,	182, 184
„ Newlands,	158,163
„	„	Excursion to,	179
„ St. John’s, 62, 63, 64, 135,
136, 224
„	„	Excursion to,	178
Walker (Robert),	56
Walla Crag,	160, 169
Walna Scar, 107 to 110; 267 to 269
Wansfell Pike,	20, 37
Wastdale Head,	115, 204, 247, 248
(See Wastwater; and Section 6.)
Wastdale to	Ambleside,	282
,,	„	Buttermere,	260
„	„	Coniston,	264
„	,,	Eskdale,	264
,,	„	Grasmere,	262
„	„	Keswick,	259
Wastwater,	2,248
(And see Sect. 6, and Wastdale Head.)
Wastwater, Railways from,	253
Wastwater to Ambleside (by Esk-
dale),	252
„	„ Coniston or Gras-
mere (by Esk-
dale),	252
„	„ Keswick (by Scale
Hill),	252
Watendlath,	88, 170,175, 217
Whinlatter,	166
Whiteside, ascent of, from Keswick, 229
„	„	„ Scale Hill, 182
Winandermere,	1, 41, 42
„	Excursion on, 13 to 16
„	Ferry, 12,17, 18
Windermere,	7 to 11
(And see Section 1.)
Windermere to Ambleside, 16,18
„	„	Grasmere and the
Langdales,	18
„	„	Hawkshead and
Coniston,	17
„	„	Mardale and Hawes-
water, 20 to 32
„	„	Ullswater,	17
Windy Gap,	247
Wishing Gate,	44,	47
Wood How Knot,	249
Wordsworth’s Grave,	46
„ House (Grasmere), 47
„	„ (Rydal), 42
Wray Castle,	15,	18
Wrynose Pass,	56,	60
Wythburn,	63, 197
„	Beck,	87
„	„ (upper part), 86,215
Wythop Fell,	166
Yewbarrow,	249,250
Yewdale,	54, 67, 101THE LAKES,
KESWICK, CUMBERLAND.
Wilder the Patronage &f their Royal Highnesses the Prince of
Wales and Prince Arthw, Sfc,
THE LOBORE HOTEL, DERWENT WATER,
AND
THE BORROWDALE HOTEL,
BORROWDALE.
B. ARMSTRONG, Proprietor.
The above Hotels are situate at the head of Derwentwater and
the entrance to the Vale of Borrowdale, the whole of which
beautiful scenery the Hotels overlook.
The celebrated Falls of Lodore are near the Hotels.
The Borrowdale Hotel, recently erected, is replete with every
convenience for Tourists and Families, and is the most centrally
situated for all Lake District Excursions.
The two Hotels are capable of accommodating upwards of 100
Visitors.
Angling free to Parties staying at the Hotels, — the Proprietor
having a right of Fishing upon Derwentwater, &c.
Parties boarded per Week or Month on reasonable terms.
Guides and Mountain Ponies, Post-Hoeses, Carriages, and Boats
in readiness.
An Omnibus attends the Trains at the Keswick Kailway Station»
a11.
POOLE’S QUEEN’S HOTEL,
KESWICK.
EDWIN E. POOLE
Begs to inform the Nobility, Gentry, and Tourists visiting Kes-
wick and the Lake District that his Hotel has been re-built and
fitted up, regardless of expense, for the comfort and convenience
of Visitors. The Hotel stands on a high and dry situation, and
commands extensive Lake and Mountain Views not to be equalled
in Keswick. The Hotel is fitted up with a large and spacious
Coffee-Room, Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths, and Billards.
Cars, Carriages, Wagonettes, Post-Horses, and Mountain Ponies
always in readiness.
An Omnibus attends the arrival of Trains at Keswick Station.
During the Summer season, a Coach runs from the Hotel,
through Borrow dale, to Buttermere, returning by the Vale of
Newlands.
Parties who may honour him with their Patronage will find
every comfort and convenience with the best attention and rea-
sonable Charges. Visitors not liking the Town of Keswick can be
accommodated at his Family Hotel, one mile from Keswick, and
situated at the foot of Lake Derwent.
POOLE’S EAMILY HOTEL,
POBTINSCALE,
Patronized by Prince de Joinville and Family, Duke de Nemours
and Family, <Sfc., Sfc.
E. POOLE
Respectfully informs Visitors to the Lake District that his
House is beautifully situated at the foot of Lake Derwent, within
five minutes’ walk of the same, and one mile from Keswick. It
commands an extensive and romantic View of the Lake and sur-
rounding Mountains.
Parties who may honour him with their Patronage will find
every comfort and convenience, with the best attention and rea-
sonable Charges.
N.B. — Neat Pleasure-Boats, Carriages, Ponies, and Post-Hoeses.
An Omnibus meets all the Trains.
E. E. POOLE, Peopeietoe op both Hotels.111.
THE HEKWENTWATER HOTEL,
PORTINSCALE, KESWICK,
Patronized by II. II.II. Prince Arthur, the Duke and Duchess of
Northumberland, Dari Russell and Family, Lord Lytileton,
Lord Milton, Sir Stephen Glynn, Sir E. B. Lytton,
and; other Families of Distinction.
Mbs. BEL L,
Begs respectfully to inform Tourists and others visiting the Lake
District that her Hotel is fitted up on the most modern principle,
and every attention is paid to Parties favouring her with their
patronage.
The Hotel stands on the margin of the Lake, the whole of which
it overlooks. It also commands extensive views of the surround-
ing Mountains, and is one mile distant from Crosthwaite Church.
An Angling Association having been formed at Keswick, the
Lakes and Rivers are well protected and abound in Fish. The
principal river is near the Hotel, and very convenient for parties
fond of fishing.
N.B. — The Wines, &c., are of the finest quality. Carriages,
Conveyances, and Hack Horses are let out on reasonable terms.
Pleasure and Fishing-Boats may be had at the Hotel.
Patronized by II.R.II. the Prince of Wales.
PETTITT’S
GALLERY OE OIL PAINTINGS,
Comprising the Lakes, Tarns, Mountain Passes, and other scenes
of interest in the Lake District.
Also,
Large Photographs, Cartes de Visite, and Stereographs of
Cumberland and Westmorland Scenery.
A Photographic Studio has been added for taking Cartes de Visite,
Groups, &c., &e.
ST. JOHN STREET, KESWICK.IV.
“ MAJESTIC DLLS'WATER/’— Wordsworth.
BROWNRIGG’S HOTEL,
ULLSWATER LAKE HEAD,
WESTMORLAND,
Has recently received considerable additions, and cannot now be
surpassed for Scenery and Accommodation by any in tbe District.
The Hotel is fitted up with Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths, con-
tains 10 Private Sitting-Rooms, and every other accommodation
required in a First-Class Establishment, From this Hotel is the
shortest and best road to Helvellyn, for walking or for ponies.
There is a Boat-landing within 300 yards, approached from the
Hotel by an excellent gravel walk, dry and clean in all seasons.
The Views from this Hotel far surpass those to be obtained from
any other site, and the Grounds surrounding it were described by
the late Sir Joseph Paxton as laid out in a more tasteful and ele-
gant manner than the grounds of any Hotel he had ever seen.
In the immediate neighbourhood are many most delightful and
romantic Walks, easy of access, and commands at every turn new
and charming views of flood and fell, and lake and mountain, un-
surpassable in beauty and grandeur in the whole region of the
Lakes.
The Hotel is distant about 300 yards from Lake Ullswater.
Coaches run daily to Troutbeck Station, on the Keswick and Pen-
rith Railway, to Windermere, Bowness, and Penrith. At the
season, a Coach leaves Bowness and Windermere daily to Patter-
dale, Ullswater Lake Head, and back to Bowmess.
The Hotel has been patronized by Her Majesty the Queen, the
Prince of Wales and Suite, Sir George and Lady Grey; and the
Russian Prince and Suite made this Hotel their head-quarters
during the whole time of their visit to the Lakes.
HOTEL TERMS.
Breakfast, Is. 6d., Is. 9d., 2s. Dinner, 2s. 6d., 33., 3s 6d.
Tea, Is. 6d., Is. 9d., 2s.
Bed-Room, Is. 6d. to 2s., and 2s. 6d. Sitting-Room, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d.
Fresh Trout evert Day.
POST-HORSES, CARRIAGES, and BOATS of every Description.
KOBERT BROWNRXGG, Proprietor.
(Many years with Mr. Bathe, London Tavern.)
The Oldest-Established Hotel in the District,
And the only one which has the right of Fishing on Lake Ullswater.V.
THE NAG’S HEAD INN,
WYTHBURN,
FOOT OF HELVELLTN.
Families and others visiting Helvellyn and Thirlmere will find good
accommodation at the above Inn.
MOUNTAIN PONIES AND EXPERIENCED GUIDES, CARS, &C.
Coaches pass and re-pass daily to all parts.
JANE HAWKRIGG, Proprietor.
BANKS & CO.,
ENGRAVERS, LITHOGRAPHERS, AND GENERAL
PRINTERS,
26, WATERLOO PLACE, EDINBURGH,
Execute every description of Work in the above Departments, in
the best Style, at Moderate Prices.
Bank Notes, Cheques, Bills, Deposit and Current Receipts,
Drafts on Demand, Letters of Advice, Headed Letter Papers,
&c.
Insurance Policies, Premium and Guarantee Receipts, Prospec-
tuses, Almanacks, Ruled and Printed Forms of every kind.
PLANS OF ESTATES, CHARTS, SECTIONS.
Invoices, Business Cards, Circulars, Envelopes, Memorandums,
Letter Paper, Tickets and Labels, &c.
Dies Engraved for Business Purposes or Private Use, Designs
supplied for Crests, Monograms, &c., and Stamped in every variety
of style and Colour.
B. Sf Co. undertake the 'production of Work, in all the Branches of their
Business, for the Bookselling and Engraving Trade; and all Orders which
they are intrusted with receive their most careful and prompt attention.
a 2VI.
MACKERET ITS
DUNGEON GHYLL NEW HOTEL,
MIL LB EC K,
LANGDALE.
This Hotel has been recently built to supply a want long felt
by Tourists visiting Dungeon Ghyll, Langdale Pikes, and the sur-
rounding Scenery.
It is close upon a mile nearer to the Waterfall than any other
place where accommodation can he had, and is most conveniently
situated for a resting-place before making the ascent to Scawfell,
Bowfell, or the Pikes; or for making the Passes to Wastwater,
Borrowdale, &e.
Intelligent Guides, Conveyances, and Mountain Ponies may he
had at the Hotel. Also, all information respecting Mountains
and Mountain Passes.
Boat on Stickle Tarn for the use of Anglers and Tourists.
THE QUEEN’S HOTEL
Is THE ONLY HOTEL IN AMBLESIDE THAT
COMMANDS A VIEW OF LAKE WINANDERMERE.
This extensive and excellent New Hotel is fitted up with all the
modern improvements suitable for carrying on an extensive busi-
ness. Sitting and Bed-Rooms are large and airy, and it is the
only Hotel in Ambleside with Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths.
The views from the Sitting and Bed-Rooms cannot be equalled.
The Ladies’ Coffee-Room is the largest and handsomest in Amble-
side, and commands views of Lake Winandermere; the Valley of
Ambleside, with its beautiful Church; the Knoll, the residence of
Miss Harriet Martineau; Fox How, the residence of the late Dr.
Arnold; Rydal Mount, the residence of the late poet Wordsworth;
Gilbertscar, Loughrigg Fell, Knab Scar, Rydal Head, Fairfield,
Scandale Fell, &c.
Posting and Coaches to all p arts of the Lake District.Vll.
EDINBURGH.
THE DOUGLAS HOTEL.
THOMAS SLANEY, Proprietor.
This Hotel has long enjoyed the reputation of being one of the
best in the Kingdom, and has been patronized by the Royal
Families of England and the Continent, and the Nobility and
Gentry. Besides a Coffee-Room, Smoking-Room, Baths, and
other accommodations, a splendid Saloon, with upwards of twenty
Bed-Rooms, have recently been added, and are set apart for the
accommodation of those Ladies and Gentlemen honouring the
Hotel who wish to avoid the expense of a Private Sitting-Room.
The Great Saloon is the finest room in any Hotel in the Kingdom,
and is capable of dining upwards of 300 persons. Families oc-
cupying Private Apartments in the Hotel have the option of
dining in the Public Room. Each department is kept so distinct
that all may enjoy the quietude of a private house with the inde-
pendence of an hotel.
PUBLIC ROOM FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN.
The I Note ami Dinners a la Carte.
The Scale of Charges on application. Attendance charged in Bill.
EMILY MAYO,
BOOKSELLER AND STATIONER,
TOURIST DEPOT, LAKE ROAD, KESWICK.
Maps, Guide Books, Views, Stereoscopes and Lake District
Slides and Cards.
Mato’s Unequalled Souvenirs of the Lake District,
Comprising Desks, Letter-Weights, Needle-Books, Pincushions,
Pen-Wipers, Folios, &c.
Official Agent for the Christian Knowledge and
Religious Tract Societies.
Horniman’s Pure Tea, and F. Alishorn’s Homopathic Medicines.Vlll.
LAKES OE CUMBEELAND.
WILLIAM SIMPSON’S
EOYAL OAK HOTEL,
ROSTHWAITE, BORROW DALE,
One mile south of the Bowder Stone, six miles from Keswick,
and at an equal distance of eight miles from Buttermere, Wast-
water, Grasmere, and Dungeon Ghyll in Langdale.
MOUNTAIN PONIES AND CONYEYANCES EOE HIEE.
Well-aired Beds.
TOWNSON'S
SALUTATION HOTEL,
AMBLESIDE.
FOR FAMILIES AND TOURISTS.
HAYTON’S LODGINGS,
Windermere Bank, near the Village of Bowness, and close to the
road from the Railway.
The View of Lake Winandermere and the surrounding Moun-
tains from the rooms is one of the most beautiful and extensive
in the district.
JOHN GRIER,
NURSERYMAN, FLORIST, & SEEDSMAN,
AMBLESIDE,
Begs respectfully to inform Lake Tourists and others, that a choice
and varied collection of
ROSES, CONIFERS, SHRUBS, FRUIT TREES,
BRITISH AND EXOTIC FERNS,
Together with a general Nursery Stock, will be found at his
Nurseries, near the head of Lake Winandermere, and invites a visit
of inspection.
Separate priced Catalogues may be had free on application.
The Nurteries, Ambleside,
April 1ȣ, 1866.IX.
RECENTLY PUBLISHED
BY
J. GARNETT, WINDERMERE.
---------0-
THE ENGLISH LAKES, by Harriet Martineau, illustrated
with a series of large Steel Engravings and Wood-Cuts, also
a Geological Map of the District and Outline Views of the Moun-
tain ranges ; demy 4to, gilt, 12s.
TOURISTS’ POCKET EDITION, illustrated with Steel En-
gravings, Maps, &c., 5s.
FURNESS ABBEY AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD, by
James Payn, demy 4to, illustrated withjjji Photographs, also a
Map and Ground-Plan of the Ruins. Handsomely bound in
cloth, gilt, 15s.
ONE SHILLING SERIES. Uniform, and each with Map
and Illustrations.
RAMBLES ROUND CONISTON, by A. C. Gibson.
KESWICK and its Environs, by Harriet Martineau.
FURNESS ABBEY and its neighbourhood, by James Payn.
GUIDE TO THE ENGLISH LAKES, by ditto.
A GUIDE TO THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT, intended
principally for the use of Pedestrians, by a Cambridge Man, 2s.
With Maps and Illustrations.
ASCENTS AND PASSES in the Lake District of England,
being a new Pedestrian and General Guide to the District, by
Herman Prior, M.A., Late Scholar of Trinity College, Oxford, &c.
With Maps, 5s.
FERNS OF THE LAKE COUNTRY. By W. J. Linton.
With numerous Illustrations. Neat cloth, 2s. 6d.
SAIL ON LAKE WINANDERMERE. A neat little Guide
for Steam-boat Passengers, &c.	4d.	.
LEAVES FROM LAKELAND. ByJas.Payn. Cloth,ls.6d.,
Paper Cover, Is. A series of Stories and Legends of the Lakes.
FERNS FROM THE LAKES.^ |*A beautiful and scientific
souvenir, with specimens^carefully mounted and enclosed in taste-
ful cover. 7s. 6d. and 3s. 6d.X.
GARNETT’S RAILWAY TIME-TABLES, and Guide to
Public Conveyances in the Lake District, Id.
NATURAL HISTORY IN STORIES. By M. S. C. Illus-
trated from drawings by Harrison Weir, 3s. 6d.
SKETCHES FROM LIFE. By Harriet Martineau. Illus-
trated. Extra cloth, gilt, Is. 6d.
LITTLE POEMS FOR LITTLE PEOPLE. By M. S. C.
With Illustration by Harrison Weir. Extra cloth, 2s.
THE EXCURSION. By William Wordsworth. With Topo-
graphical Notes by T. L. Aspland. Is.
PEN AND PENCIL SKETCHES OF THE ENGLISH
LAKES. Is. Eight Chromos, with descriptions by Jas. Payn.
VIEWS OF THE ENGLISH LAKES, in handsome Books,
suitable for presents or Souvenirs. 5s. and 2s. 6d.
GARNETT’S PATENT FLEXIBLE BLOTTER, various
sizes, Id., 4d., 6d., and Is. See page xv.
GARNETT’S PATENT REGULATOR INKSTAND. Office
size, price 3s. 6d. See page xiv.
TINTED OUTLINE VIEWS, from Drawings by T. L. Asp-
land, engraved by W. J. Linton, 4d. each, or the six in a packet, 2s.
Across the Head of Stockghyll	Ullswater, upper reach of
Windermere, from near Storrs	Grasmere, from Bed Bank
Coniston, from near Bank Ground Derwent Water, from Castle Head
VIEWS of the ENGLISH LAKES and MOUNTAINS.
A series of small Chromo Prints, from Water-colour Drawings by
T. L. Aspland, with descriptive letterpress, in neat folio, 5s.
Buttermere and Crummock	Windermere, from near Storrs
Coniston Lake from Nibthwaite Rydal Lake
Derwent and Bassenthwaite Lakes, Grasmere, from the Wishing Gate
from Ashness Bridge	Ullswater, from Gowbarrow Park
Entrance to Ambleside from Gale How
These Prints are also sold separately at 6d. each.
VIEWS OF THE LAKES. A series of large 4to highly-
finished line Engravings, 8d. each, or the set of six in beautiful
cover, 5 s.
Grasmere, from Loughrigg Terrace Borrowdale, from near the Bowder
Ullswater, from the entrance to Grise- Stone
dale	Derwent and Bassenthwaite	Lakes,
Head of Windermere, from near Miller-	from Watendlath
ground.	Stanley Ghyll, Eskdale
CHROMATIC PRINTS of the Lakes and Mountains, royal
4to, 6d. each, or the set in neat case, 5s.
Wray Castle, Windermere	Bydal Water
Bowness, from Belle Isle, Windermere Head of Windermere
Hill Bell, from High Street	Dungeon Ghyll, Langdale
Honister Pass	Keswick from the Ambleside	BoadXI.
GEOLOGICAL MAP OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DIS-
TRICT, with Explanatory Sections and Letterpress, by John
Ruthven. Mounted on cloth, and in neat cover, 5s.
GARNETT’S TRAVELLING MAPS OF THE LAKE
DISTRICT. In four Sections — viz., Windermere, Amble-
side, Keswick, and Wastwater. These Maps have been drawn
and engraved, in the most careful manner, under the superin-
tendence of the Publisher, and have every practicable Road and
Mountain Pass accurately delineated on them. The Set, in neat
cover, Is.
PHOTOGRAPHIC SOUVENIRS OF THE ENGLISH
LAKES, being four neat Packets, (Windermere, Ambleside,
Keswick, and Furness Districts) of beautiful Photographs, each
containing 12 subjects. Price, 5s. each Packet.
The Subjects of the Windermere packet are — Ara Force, Gowbarrow Park
Furness Abbey, from the north-east. Head of Windermere Lake. Kirkstone
to Pass with Brothers’ Water. Lowwood Hotel. Lyulph’s Tower, Gowbarrow
Park. The Old Cottage, Elleray. The Ferry, Windermere. Upper Beach of
Ullswater. Ullswater, from Bownass’ Hotel. Windermere from Elleray, south
view. Windermere, from Biscay How.
The Subjects of the Ambleside packet are : — Blea Tarn. Dungeon Ghyll,
Grasmere Church. Grasmere, from Red Bank. Lower Falls Rydal Park.
“ Nutting,” near the Wishing Gate. Rydal Lake, from Loughrigg Fell. Rydal
Mount. St. Mary’s Church and Schools, Ambleside. Stockghyll Force, Am-
bleside. The Old Mill, Ambleside. Upper Falls, Rydal Park.
The subjects of the Keswick packet are, Barrow Waterfall, Derwentwater.
Derwentwater and Skiddaw. Derwentwater Bay and Causey Pike. Derwent-
water from Crow Park. Friar’s Crag and Skiddaw, Derwentwater. Grange
Bridge, Borrowdale. Kitchen Bay and Cat Bells, Derwentwater. Otter’s Isle,
Derwentwater. Southey’s Monument, Crosthwaite Church, Keswick. The
Bowder Stone, Borrowdale. Upper Fall, Lodore, Derwentwater. Wallow and
Falcon Crags, Derwentwater.
The Furness packet comprises 12 of the favourite Views of the Ruins.
PIANOFORTES.
J. GARNETT,
Post-Office, Windebmebe,
Has just received from Messrs. Collard & Collard, London, a selec-
tion of Cottage and semi-Cottage Pianofortes, in rosewood and
walnut wood cases. His large stock also comprises Instruments by
Kirkman & Son, D’Almaine & Co., Hampton, Oetzman & Plumb,
and other makers, which he offers on the most advantageous terms
of sale, exchange, or hire. He also supplies every description of
Pianofortes on hire for three years, at the expiration of which
term they become the property of the hirer without further pay-
ment.Xll.
ILLUSTRATED NOTE-PAPER
Of the following subjects, at Id. each:—
Ara Force Waterfall
Bassenthwaite Lake
Barrow Cascade, Derwentwater
Borrowdale and Bowder Stone
Bowder Stone and Druid Circle
Lower Fall, Rydal
Newby Bridge, Windermere
Old Mill, Ambleside
Prince of Wales’ Lake Hotel, Grasmere
Rigg’s Windermere Hotel
Bowness, from Belle Isle, Windermere Rydal Mount
Bownass’ Ullswater Hotel, Patterdale Rydal Water, from Loughrigg
Brothers’ Water
Calder Abbey
Colwith Force
Coniston Lake
Crummock and Buttermere Lake
Derwent Water, from above Fall of
Lodore.
Derwent Water, from Castlet
Derwent Water, looking owards
Lodore.
Derwentwater from Applethwaite
Dungeon Ghyll
Egremont Castle
Ennerdale Water
Esthwaite Water
Falls in Rydal Park
Furness Abbey, two circular views
Furness Abbey.— (Linton.)
Furness Abbey, East Window
Furness Abbey, North Entrance
„ from South-east
Grasmere Lake from Red Bank
Grasmere Church and Grave of
Wordsworth
Head of Derwentwater
Honister Crag
Leathes Water, or Thirlmere
Lodore Waterfall
Logan’s Hotel and Furness Abbey
Rydal Water
Scale Force
St. Mary’s Church and Elleray, Win-
dermere
St. Mary’s Abbey, Windermere.
St. Mary’s Church and Schools. Amble-
side.
Stanley Ghyll
Stockghyll Force, Ambleside
Stickle Tarn, Langdale Pikes.
The College, Windermere.
The Ferry, Windermere
The Knoll, Ambleside
Thirlmere, from Raven Crag
Ullswater Lake and Bownass’ Hotel
Ullswater, from entrance to Grisedale.
Upper Reach of Ullswater
Upper Fall, Rydal
Vale of Keswick
Waterhead Hotel, Coniston
Windermere from the Crown Hotel
Windermere from near Rigg’s Hotel
Windermere from near Storrs
Windermere from Lowwood Hotel
Windermere from the Ulverston Road
Windermere from near the Royal Hotel
Wray Castle, Windermere
Wastwater, two views
Wastdale Hall, Wastwater
Windermere Lake
Loughrigg Tarn
Packets, containing 12 of the above Note Views, assorted for
the Windermere, Ambleside, and Keswick, Districts, in ornamental
wrapper, at Is. each.
The Views are also published on Cards at Is. per packet, in districts.Xlll.
J. GAENETT,
printer, Bookseller, Stationer, Photographer, &c,,
POST-OFFICE, WINDERMERE,
PRINTING.
Every kind of Letterpress, Steelplate, Copperplate, Lithographic,
and Colour Printing, Calling-Cards, Embossed Note-Headings, and
Monograms, done in the best manner, specimens of which will be
shown.
BOOKS.
The Stock comprises all the New Illustrated and Presentation
Books — valuable Bibles, Church Services, Common Prayers, and
a large stock of Useful, Standard, and Educational Books. Parcels
every day from London. Periodicals regularly supplied.
DEPOT OF THE SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING
CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE.
STATIONERY.
Every variety of Paper, Envelopes, Account Books, Exercise Books,
Note Books, and all other Articles connected with this Branch.
BOOKBINDING
To order, in Morocco, Calf, Cloth, &c. Periodicals cheaply and
expeditiously Bound.
PHOTOGRAPHY.
The Suite of Rooms, on the first floor, are, it is believed, equal
to any in tbe Kingdom. Specimens of Portraits already taken
will be gladly shown. In Landscape Work, the stock comprises
Stereoscopic and larger Views of Lake Scenery; also a folio of the
grand Works of the first Artists.
PIANOFORTES
By Collard & Collard and other eminent Makers, for Sale and
Hire. The only large Stock in the County.
PICTURE GALLERY.
A collection by Local and other Artists, chiefly of Lake Scenery,
including a selection of beautiful Sketches, exhibited in a well-lit
Gallery constructed for the purpose. Admission free.
[oveb.XIV.
PUBLIC LIBRARY.
Containing the New Books as they issue from the Press; also,
the leading Magazines and Reviews. Terms on application.
NEWSPAPERS.
The London and Provincial Papers punctually supplied at the
lowest price. Advertisements inserted.
ARTISTS’ MATERIALS.
A complete Stock of Winsor and Newton’s kept.
FIRE AND LIFE INSURANCE OFFICE.
The Phoenix and Eagle are represented, — two of the largest
and most respectable Companies in the Kingdom.
ESTATE AND HOUSE AGENT (Licensed.)
A Registry kept of Properties in the Market and Houses to Let.
HEAD POST-OFFICE AND SAYINGS BANK,
WINDERMERE.
GARNETT’S PATENT
REGULATOR INKSTAND.
Descbiption.
A is a spiral surface, which can be turned at pleasure, and which prevents
the Pen going to deep into the Ink. As the Ink gets lower, it is turned to
suit the dip required. Fig. 2 represents the Inkstand about half full, and the
regulator consequently turned half way round.
The advantages of this Inkstand are that no more than the re-
quired dip of Ink is obtained, while it can be increased or decreased
at pleasure, — consequently neither the pen, fingers, nor paper get
bedaubed.
Office size, price 3s. Gd.XV.
G A 11 N E T T ’ S
PATENT FLEXIBLE BLOTTER.
The item of Blotting Paper is frequently both a troublesome
and an expensive one, while its employment, except with par-
ticularly careful manipulation, is often unsatisfactory in its
results. The Flexible Blotter will be found at once more plea-
sant and efficient in application, and much more economi-
cal than any other method of employing this indispensable
adjunct of the Writing Desk. Tests and examples of its advan-
tages and efficiency are numerous: — It is found that a sheet of
Blotting Paper is more economically used by always drying the
ink with the blackened side, and reserving the red, or what would
be called the clean side, for rubbing with the hand only. The
Patent Blotter provides for using both sides of the paper in this
best manner. Every one recollects throwing away piece after
piece of Blotting Paper, after it has vaxatiously smeared writing,
but long before it was apparently unfit for use; shopkeepers
especially, who are at one instant among their wares and the next
at the desk with their sweating or soiled hands, are much troubled
in this way. It cannot happen, however, when the new Blotter
is used, for every part of the absorbing surface may be thoroughly
blackened before it will refuse to absord more ink.— Again, the
Blotter preserves the Blotting Paper in a compact form, and with
unruffled edges; laid under the hand, it forms a simple and
pleasant regulator and ensures straight writing; while its appli-
cation in this form, and as a Blotter, will be found to prevent the
too familiar annoyance of what is called “ greasy paper33 and
blurred writing.
Sold by all Statoners at Id., 4d., 6d., and Is. each, and can be
had wholesale or retail of J. Garnett, Windermere, the patentee.
	
	
	
	
	
	

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