C37 C4- CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Cornell University Library DS 489.C37C4 The Ceylon government railway :a descri 3 1924 023 977 659 Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023977659 OTHER WORKS ON CEYLON BY HENRY W. CAVE i. The Book Of Geyloil. An Account of its Varied Attractions for the Visitor and Tourist. 664 Pages. 736 Illustrations. 12s. net. " This is a most exhaustive work on Ceylon, and the author, a learned graduate of Oxford, is well qualified by long residence and travel throughout the island to speak with authority. The book is a perfect mine of information." — Scottisli Geographical Magazine. " This volume seems to contain almost everything that can be said about the island, tell- ing the reader all he should see, describing the industries of the country, and giving practical guidance as to expenses." — The Spectator. " It is a big name which Mr. Cave has given to his book, but he has evidently resolved that the volume shall live up to its title. It is in fact one of the most comprehensive and thoroughly satisfactory books we have ever seen, and no visitor to Ceylon will be able to do without it." — The Aberdeen Journal. II. Goldeil Tips. A Description of Ceylon and its Great Tea Industry. With 213 Illustrations from Photographs by the Author. 10s. 6d. net. " Mr. Cave seems to hold a brief for the whole Island of Ceylon, with its varied attrac- tions. . . . The charm of Cingalese life and nature is depicted with glowing colours and interesting details." — Athenaum. " Mr. H. W. Cave has given us a most fascinating and picturesque account of Ceylon. No one will read the book, with its entrancing photographs, without wishing to set out at once to the enchanted island." — Westminster Gazette. "Mr. H. W. Cave deserves well of Ceylon. He has done an immense amount of work in making the attractions of the Colony known to the reading public who reside in other parts of the Kmpire. His latest work is a splendid effort."— Standard, III. The Ruined Cities of Ceylon. FOURTH EDITION. 12s. net. " A most fascinating and beautiful book. Superlative praise is the only thing it merits." — Antiquary. " Written in a very pleasant and scholarly style. "—Spectator. "The warmest thanks of every student of Oriental monuments are due to Mr. Henry W. Cave." — Daily Chronicle. IV. Baudenkmaler aus Altester Zeit in Ceylon. Hack dem Englischtn des HENRY IF. CAVE, M.A., F.R.G.S. Ins_Deutsche Ubertragen von Anna, Grafin v. Zech. mit 65 Voilbiidem nach original 'aitfnahm en des verfassers. 12s. nut. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY A DESCRIPTIVE AND ILLUSTRATED GUIDE MAINLY EXTRACTED FROM THE AUTHOR'S EARGER WORK "THE BOOK OF CEYLON" BY HENRY W. CAVE M.A. (Oxon.), F.R.GS. MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY. AUTHOR OF "PICTURESQUE CEYLON," " GOLDEN TIPS," " THE RUINED CITIES OF CEYLON," "THE BOOK OF CEYLON'" CASSELL AND COMPANY, LIMITED London, New York, Toronto and Meleourne. mcmx ALL RIGHTS RESERVED First Edition, 6,000 copies Printed July, iqio 1 CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE I. — Introductory .......... i II. — Colombo ........... 4 III. — General Description of the Ceylon Government Railway . 19 IV.— The Coast Line Itinerary ....... 32 V.— The Main Line Itinerary — Colombo to Peradeniya — The Royal Botanic Gardens — Randy ..... 69 VI. — The Ma tale Line Itinerary . . . . . . ..116 VII.— The Main Line Itinerary Resumed — Peradeniya J unction to Bandar awe la, including Adam's Peak . . . 125 VIII. — The Udapussellawa Line Itinerary, including Nuwara Eliya . . . . . . . . . .155 IX.- — The Northern Line Itinerary— from Polgahawela Junction to Kankesanturai ........ 168 X. — The Kelani Valley Itinerary — Colombo to Yatiyantota . 215 XL — The Negombo Line ......... 231 MAPS AND PLANS Railway Map of Ceylon Giving Distances of Stations and their Elevation above Sea Level ..... Facing 1 Map of the Fort of Colombo ........ 7 Plan of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya . . . .90 Map of the Town of Kandy ........ m: Map of Anuradiiapuea ......... 173 APPENDIX Useful Information for Visitors to Ceylon FhotolAth.S.QOSo:ioelM THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY CHAPTER I INTRODUCTORY The attractions of Ceylon are manifold and appeal to a variety Attractions of tastes and needs. First of all the economic conditions of Ce y' on of the country are encouraging to the capitalist who devotes his energies to tropical agriculture; tea, rubber, cocoa, carda- moms, and coconuts flourish remarkably and seldom fail to yield an abundant return to the careful investor. Man)' people visit Ceylon in search of health, or to escape the rigours of the European winter, and it is noticeable that the visit once made is often repeated. As a health resort Ceylon not only possesses a warm and equable climate, but the recommenda- tion of complete change of scene. To the enervated European residents of the plains of India it is a veritable paradise ; they are discovering that a visit to Kandy and Nuwara Eliya is not only a source of health but of enjoyment, and that it restores their vanished energies without the great expenditure of time and money involved in a voyage to Europe. To the leisured classes who travel the attractions of Ceylon arc per- haps the greatest, and it is satisfactory to be able to assure them that consideration for their comfort and convenience is always increasing. The northern section of the railway has added immensely to the opportunities of the visitor, who can now explore the most remarkable antiquities in the world with a reasonable expenditure of time and in perfect comfort. Every leisured taste can be gratified — whether it be anti- quarian, aesthetic, ethnological, entomological, botanical or sporting ; and when it is considered that the gratification of such tastes can be accomplished in such an agreeable climate and during a period when the very opposite conditions prevail in Europe it is almost a wonder that any who can avail them- selves of these opportunities fail to do so. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Climate Temf>eratur. Rainfall Wettest months Not the least of its attractions are the great variety and choice of climate that Ceylon affords. Fortunately the best months for visiting the countrv are those which in Europe are the most disagreeable. The recent extensions of the railway system in rendering the ruined cities easily and comfortably accessible have made Ceylon more than ever a desirable retreat during winter months ; and if it has not yet rivalled Egypt in popularity the circumstance is clue less to its climate and attractions than its distance. For general salubrity it is unrivalled in the East. Notwithstanding the variety of tem- perature to be met with at various stations and elevations, the equability of each is remarkable, and stands in great con- trast to the fickleness of European weather. Classification of the climate of Ceylon is easy : (i.) moist and hot but tempered by cool sea breezes, with a temperature of 75 to S5 F. as in most of the maritime provinces, including the towns ol Negombo, Colombo, Kalutara, Galle and Matara; (ii.) hot and drv, as the north-west coast and the peninsula of Jaffna; (iii.) humid and warm, as in the hilly regions bordering the great mountain belt, with a shade temperature of 75 F. by da}' and 70 F. by night; and (iv.) temperate, as in the tea districts of the mountain zone, where the shade temperature averages by day from to 65 F. according to elevation, aspect and other causes. The annual rainfall is less than 50 inches in Jaffna, the north-west, and the south-east; from 50 to 75 inches in the north-east; 75 to 100 inches in a belt of twenty miles width surrounding the mountain zone ; and from 100 to 200 inches in the tea-country. The occurrence of rain can be anticipated with fair accuracy, and the seasons for heavy downpours regularly coincide with the change of the monsoons. From October to May north-east winds prevail ; for the rest of the vear the south-west monsoon blows con- tinually. To the influence of these monsoons and the uniform temperature of the surrounding oceans the equable and tem- perate character of the Ceylon climate is mainly due. April, May, October and November are the wettest months. As much as 53 inches has been registered in Colombo during October and November ; but the tourist will find the latter month not unfavourable for a sojourn in Ceylon. August and September are often delightful months in Ceylon, and although they do not suit the traveller from Europe, thev are in favour with the European resident of India, Burmah and the Straits Settle- ments, who is beginning to find that a visit to Ceylon for health and pleasure is the most profitable within his reach. It is perhaps scarcely necessary to remark that there are no seasons in Ceylon as we know them in Europe; the difference in the hot districts lies between hot and a little hotter, and in more temperate districts between cool and a little cooler. Tennent, THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 3 in a passage that cannot be improved upon, says : " No period climate of the year is divested of its seed-time and its harvest in some part of the island ; the fruit hangs ripe on the same branches that arc garlanded with opening buds. But as every plant has its own period for the production of its flowers and fruit, each Flora month is characterised by its own peculiar flora. As regards the foliage of the trees, it might be expected that the variety of tints would be wanting which form the charm of a European landscape, and that all nature would wear one mantle of unchanging green. But, although in Ceylon there is no revolution of seasons, the change of leaf on the same plant exhibits colours as bright as those which tinge the autumnal woods of America. It is not the decaying leaves, but the fresh shoots, which exhibit these bright colours, the older are still vividly green, whilst the young are bursting forth; and the extremities of the branches present tufts of pale yellow, pink, crimson, and purple, which give them at a distance the appear- ance of a cluster of flowers." It may be useful to the intending visitor to indicate the sort of weather he is likely to meet with at the various centres of interest in each of the months usually chosen for visiting Ceylon. During December Colombo is in many respects plcasanter climate f, than at anv other time of the year. It is cloudy and compara- tively cool, and has an average rainfall of six inches for the month, which serves well to keep the vegetation at its best, and the golf links and other recreation grounds in good con- dition. The rain seldom keeps the visitor prisoner for more than a very few hours, while the longer intervals of fine weather are delightful. The same conditions apply to the south coast and to Kandy. In Nuwara Eliya the fine weather and the wet are about equal. Anuradhapura expects wet days, but during the fine intervals is more attractive by reason of the lakes and pokunas being well filled with water. Jaffna is agreeable, and its well-tilled fields look smiling and pleasant. Januarv is on the whole a better month for the visitor. Jamia-y The winds are dry and cool, and it is necessary in Colombo to avoid sitting in them when heated from exercise, or sleeping with windows open to the north. The nights are refreshing, and early morning exercise pleasant. It is a good month for visiting the many towns of interest on the south and south- west coasts. Kandy is cool and delightful and admits of sleep beneath the blanket, while in the mornings and evenings vigorous walking can be indulged in with pleasure. Nuwara Eliva has now a mean temperature of 56 F. Fires in the evening are comfortable, while the early mornings are often frosty. The rainfall here averages six inches during this month ; but the fine days are glorious. Anuradhapura has not definitely 4 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY climate arrived at its fine weather period, but is generally pleasant. It is perhaps sufficient to say that all the photographs in this book illustrating the ruins of the city were taken during the month of January. Jaffna is quite at its best and much cooler than in the later months. February In February Colombo is dry ; the nights are cloudless and cool. In Kandy it is the finest month of the year; the days are bright and sunn)-, the early mornings cold, the evenings most agreeable and the nights dewy. Nuwara Eliya is also in its best mood, and is probably at this time as regards climate the pleasantest spot on the earth. February is also a good month for visiting Anuradhapura, and quite the best for trips to Dambulla, Sigiriya and Polonnaruwa. Jaffna is also fine, and although it is much warmer than in January it is not yet too hot to be pleasant. March In March the heat in Colombo increases rapidly, the earth receiving more heat than is lost bv radiation and evaporation. The temperature rises to 87 F. during the day and seldom descends below 8o° F. at night. There is consequently amongst Europeans a general exodus to the hills. Kandy is rather warmer than in February ; the range of the thermometer has decreased and the morning air has lost its crispness ; but the climate is pleasant and the month is a good one for the tourist. Nuwara Eliya is still delightful as in February, but with diminishing range of temperature, the nights being less cold. At the ruined cities the conditions are favourable to tine visitor, the month being quite fine. Jaffna becomes hot, but not unbearably so, and the tourist should not leave it out of his itinerary. CHAPTER II COLOMBO To the end that this account of the facilities afforded by the Ceylon Government Railway may serve as a comprehensive handbook for the traveller, it will be useful here to give some account of the amenities of the port of arrival, and such information as will enable the steamship passenger to enjoy its many attractions to the best advantage. First aiimpse The character of the first glimpse of Ceylon necessarily of Ceylon yaries with the time of day and the atmospheric conditions that may be prevailing. During the north-east monsoon, from October to April, which is the best season for visiting Ceylon, the conditions are generally favourable, and the scene which unfolds itself to us if we are early risers, and have the good fortune to approach the coast at break of day, is one of unique beauty. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 5 We behold first the mountain zone, saered to tea production, First aiimp rising in one might)' upheaval from the plains of Ceylon, and ° ey on capped in the centre by the venerated peak named alter our first parent. The mists are as yet lying- in the valleys, and the cool blue tones above them give us the true contour of those fertile mountains upon which millions of tea bushes are nourishing. At different elevations there are four extensive ledges which appear to rise abruptly from the base, and from these a number of lofty mountains raise their rugged brows to the height of 5,000 to 8,000 feet. As we approach nearer and nearer we see the mists arise, attracted upwards by the rays of the rising sun, and a scene of verdant loveliness is disclosed which stands in welcome con- trast to the parched and barren shores we have left behind at Suez and Aden. The mountains are now lost to view and the details of the beautiful palm-fringed shores gradually increase as we steam towards the harbour. The harbour is formed of three artificial breakwaters, enclosing- an area of 660 acres. Some idea of the masses of water that are hurled against these concrete walls during the fury of the monsoons may be gathered from our illustration.. MOUNTAINOUS SPRAY BREAKING OVER THE SOUTH"WEST ARM OF THE COLOMBO HARBOUR 6 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Sinhalese \y L . have now arrived within the harbour, and our atten- tion is arrested by many quaint scenes. A multitude of canoes from the shore are making for our vessel. Their singular form immediately excites our curiosity. Each is constructed from the trunk of a tree, which is first hollowed out and then levelled at the top. Balance is secured by an outrigger attachment, which consists of two poles of wood extending at right angles to a distance of about ten feet from the body of the boat, and connected at the ends by a float. Boats of this construction are used by the Sinhalese for fishing and for passenper traffic. They withstand the roughest sea, and literally fly before the breeze. As each steamer drops anchor within the magnificent breakwater of Colombo these weird craft crowd around, many of them bringing traders laden with precious stones, which will be offered at double or treble their value to unwary passengers; others plying for the hire of their boats to take passengers ashore, some with dusky Tamils who sing unceasingly to the plash of their oars ; many with comely Sinhalese of lighter complexion, their long hair twisted into a thick knot surmounted by a tortoiseshell comb, giving them a curiously feminine appearance ; some with Indo-Arab traders in curious costumes of many hues, their shaven heads crowned with tall plaited brimless hats of parti-coloured silks. This motley fleet is the first scene of novelty that claims attention upon arrival in the harbour of Colombo. Landing The distance of the landing jetty from our ship will vary from a mile to a few hundred yards according to the berth allotted for anchorage. Passengers go ashore at their own convenience in launches, canoes, or jollv boats, all of which plv for hire around the steamer. The boats are licensed. The rates of hire are observable in a prominent place upon arrival at the landing jetty, and a jetty sergeant is present to afford information and check anv incivility on the part of boatmen. The Customs officials are courteous and obliging to travellers, who are not required to pay duty on such articles as comprise ordinary travelling baggage. But firearms are liable to a duty of five to ten rupees ; and articles which are not in use and possess a market value are liable to a duty of §j4 per cent, on that value. Rates of carriage hire, 'rickshaw hire, portages and statis- tical information generally are given at the end of this volume, and will be easily found on reference to the index. The Fort Li few of the world's large ports is the traveller offered so pleasant a prospect upon landing. There is usually a slum to be traversed before the surroundings become attractive, but here we are at once in pleasant places. Upon leaving the jetty we arrive in the Fort, which term in olden times The Customs THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY bore its literal meaning; but now indicates that portion of Colombo occupied chiefly by the residence of the Governor, the offices of the Government and of the British merchants. We are impressed by the prosperous appearance of the place. The streets are broad, the roads are good, the merchants' offices and stores are capacious and in many instances possess considerable architectural merit, while the hotels are superior to any others in the East, a matter of no small importance to the traveller and resident alike. We are at once confronted by one of them . the Grand Oriental Hotel faces us as we leave the harbour. Other first-class hotels are the Bristol in York Street, the Galle Eace Hotel at the southern end of the esplanade, and the Mount Lavinia, about seven miles down the coast; while amongst the smaller ones are the Globe and the British India. The Eort, a plan of which is annexed, can easily be ex- plored on foot and without a guide. By turning to the right upon reaching the Grand Oriental Hotel we pass the old banqueting hall of the Dutch Governors, which now does duty as the English Garrison Church of St. Peter. It contains some interesting memorials, and is worth a visit. Turning again to the left we pass along Queen Street, with the Gordon Gardens on our right and the Legislative Council Chamber and various Government offices on the left (Plate 2). The THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 2. GOVERNMENT OFFICES. 3. THE QUEEN'S HOUSE. THE GENERAL POST OFF RANKS AND BANKS IN QUFEN STREET. The Qu.en's House Genem' Vest Op'ic Government archives are also located here and include the official records of the Dutch Government from the year 1640 to 1796, besides the British records from the latter date. The Gordon Gardens are on our right, and adjoining them is the residence of the Governor of the colon}', known as the Queen's House. Although not a handsome building, its massive masonry and spacious corridors provide what is most desirable in a tropical residence, protection from the sun's rays, while the grounds of some four acres are shaded by beautiful trees. It was erected about the middle of the last century. We cannot give an adequate idea of the architecture or general appearance of this building from a photograph, for it is not only in a somewhat confined position for so large a house, but is also embowered in foliage. Some idea of its appearance from the street may be gathered from our Plate 3. Immediately opposite the Queen's House is the General Post Office (Plate 4). The colony is abreast of the times in its postal arrangements, and in many instances offers advantages that the Old Country has not begun to provide, notably, a value-payable parcels post ; while its post-card and newspaper rates are one-third lower than in Great Britain. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY The visitor will find the arrangements for his convenience satisfactory and complete. He will enter by the handsome flight of steps leading to a spacious hall floored with intaglio tiles. Here he will find the poste-restante counters as well as every other postal facility. The next buildings to claim our notice as we pass along Oueen Street are the Hongkong and Shanghai Bank and the Chartered Bank of India on the left (Plate 5). Opposite these banks is another institution of a similar character, the Mercantile Bank of India. An equally venerable thing is the sacred Bo Tree which flourishes at its entrance. This tree is of the same species as the famous specimen at Anuradhapura, now upwards of two thousand years old, whose history is described on a later page. Here Queen Street is intersected by Chatham Street, and in the middle of the crossings stands the Lighthouse of Colombo, which serves the additional purpose of a clock tower. The quadrilateral shape of this building is unusual in a light- house, and its more important purpose is sometimes unsus- pected by the visitor who passes by. As we approach the end of Queen Street we notice the military officers' quarters on the right, the left being occupied chiefly by the offices of shipping houses and produce brokers. We now proceed by way of Chatham Street. The stranger will be struck with the picturesque appearance of this and other streets of Colombo due to the Pithecolobiurn saman or rain The Lighthouse 6. CHATHAM STREET. io THE CEYLOX GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Colombo trees by which they are shaded. They are called rain trees from the circumstance that at night the leaves fold into a kind of sac in which the moisture condenses and at sunrise when the leaves open is discharged in a shower. The Suriya tree (Thespesia populnea) also affords shade to many of the streets and roads ; it flowers profusely with delicate primrose-coloured blossoms, large and showy, changing to purple as they fade, and in form resembling the single scarlet hibiscus. The roads are metalled with dark red cabook, a product of disintegrated gneiss, which being subjected to detrition communicates its hue to the soil. Chatham Street is composed of a strange jewellers medley ot restaurants, native jewellers, curiosity shops and pro- vision boutiques , the houses being for the most part old and limited to one floor. It is a remnant of old Colombo in the sailing-ship days and must soon disappear, as most of the Dutch buildings have already done, to give place to colossal houses of business befitting the dignity of the port. York si, cei We turn to the left into York Street (Plate 7), which would scarcely be recognised by those who left Ceylon twenty years ago. It contained the eastern wall and moat of the old Dutch fort, which have disappeared in favour of the Registrar General's office, the Bristol Hotel, the National Bank of India and the Victoria Arcade. Prince Street and Baillie Street intersect the square which we have traversed. The latter is a somewhat narrow and treeless but busy thorough- fare, containing merchants' offices and the Bank of Madras. Prince Street also consists entirely of mercantile houses. Having now given a brief sketch of the Fort, we Colombo" 66 proceed with a few hints as to the best means of seeing the rest of Colombo. The visitor with little time at his command should spend half an hour round the Fort by the route described ; then take a first-class seat in front of the tram- car lor the Grand Pass terminus upon the Kelaniya River; next visit Maradana and Borella by the same means of locomotion ; afterwards hire a carriage,* drive along Galle Face, Union Place, Yauxhall Road, the Lake, Hyde Park Corner, the Cinnamon Gardens, the Hospital, Horton Place, Gregory's Road, the Museum, Turret Road, Polwatte and Kollupitiya. Then if time permits drive to Mutwal. The visitor who follows this route will have seen Colombo, and should it be his first visit to the East he will have received enough new impressions to dwell upon for many days. Tramways A start is made for Grand Pass from the Fort terminus near the Grand Oriental Hotel. Most of the cars are fitted with outside seats in front, which are first class. Into one ot these we step. We now leave the Fort and are carried along past tens of thousands of tons of coal which proclaim * For rates of carriage hire, etc., see Index. 7. YORK STREET. 8. THE NATIONAL BANK AND THE VICTORIA ARCADE. i- THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Colombo their own story of the vast amount of shipping that comes this way. A minute later we are in the Pettah, the natives' mart. The effect is kaleidoscopic. Moormen or Indo-Arab traders occupy Main Street with well-stocked stores containing" everv description of goods. In the vicinity of the Town Hall we notice the great diversitv of races represented : Sinhalese, Moors, Tamils, Parsees, Dutch, Portuguese, Malays and Afghans ; the varietv of costume worn by each race in accordance with caste or social position, from the simple loin cloth of the cooly to the gorgeous attire of the wealthy and high-caste gentleman ; the different complexions and forms of toilet, the avocations carried on in the open street, are all enter- taining to the visitor who for the first time becomes a witness of the manners and customs of oriental life. At every turn the eye is met by a fresh picture. This mixed and motley crowd live their life and carry on their labours almost entirely in public. Neither doors, windows, nor shutters interfere with a complete view of the interior of their houses and stalls. The handicraftsman works serenely in his open shed, sometimes even in the open street ; women are occupied in their most domestic affairs unveiled from the glance of the curious passer-by, and tiny children, clothed only in the rich tints of their own complexions, sport amongst the traffic. All this harmonises charmingly with the conditions of climate and the nature of the people. The heat renders clothing uncomfortable, The Grand Pass and closed up dwellings unendurable. The tram ride is Tramway perhaps too rapid for the stranger to fully appreciate these novel scenes ; but a glance at them through three miles of native streets is all that time affords. The terminus is reached at the River Kelaniya. Tin Bo>-,iia W e now return to our starting point and take a seat in the car that moves off in the opposite direction. Proceeding* up York Street and turning to the left, we pass the Survey Office, Public Works Office, Chamber of Commerce, and the Port Railway Station. The lake scenerv first claims our attention. Presently we pass the Royal College situated on high ground to the left. This is the principal Government educational institution, the nucleus of a future university, shortly to be removed and rebuilt on a new site. A ferry connecting with a peninsula of the lake called Captain's Garden provides a pretty bit of scenery, and here we notice the operations of the washerman, the dark, dank dhoby who bleaches our soiled linen by the primitive method of beating it upon slabs of rock. Upon leaving the lake the line passes the Railway Goods Station upon the right and the Technical College upon the left. After passing the Technical College we proceed along Mara- dana Road for half a mile, when we pass over the railway at Tramix THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY >3 the Maradana Junction Station, the principal station whence Colombo trains leave tor the coast line and the Kelani Valley as well as lor up-country and the northern line. Then we notice on our lelt the Police Headquarters and Parade Ground, and on the right the largest Mohammedan mosque in Colombo. Other notable places are the Lady Havelock Hospital for women and children and Campbell Park, into which the visitor might stroll for a few minutes before taking- a tram back again. On the return journey we might look out more particularly for quaint scenes in the bazaars through which we pass. Tlteba.zaa.rz The open character of the native shops is universal; they vary only in the classes of goods they have for sale. The customers are almost as varied as the wares. The Sinhalese man of sienna complexion, wearing his long hair gathered up into a knot surmounted by a comb of tortoiseshell, is attired in garb varying with caste, even the comb assuming different forms in accordance with social position. The Sinhalese women too have a multitude of distinctions in dress. Our next business is a drive through pleasant places where a pleasant we shall see something of native life amidst the exquisite dr,vc scenery with which this most beautiful of tropical cities entrances the traveller of esthetic temperament. Our choice in the matter of conveyance lies between the jinrickshaw and the horse carriage, victoria or waggonette of somewhat in- different quality to be hired in Colombo. If our choice falls upon the former, a rubber-tyred 'rickshaw should be chosen ; if the latter, a waggonette is preferable as offering less obstruc- tion to view. It is advisable to obtain either through the hotel attendant, and to give him sufficient notice to enable him to secure the best procurable. A licensed guide* may be of service, but he must be required to adhere to the route marked out, and he should be allowed only to answer questions and act where necessary as interpreter. We drive through Prince and Queen Streets which are by this time familiar to us and onwards to Galle Face. Upon leaving the Fort we notice first the military barracks on our left, built on the foundation of the old wall of the Dutch fort and fronted by a spacious parade ground. It will be seen that of the five handsome blocks four arc placed en echelon so that each may receive the full benefit of the sea breeze. Next we arrive upon Galle c.aiu i-acc Face, which is an open lawn about one mile in length and three hundred yards wide, flanked on one side by the sea and the other by the lake. It is controlled by the military authority, but used by the public as a recreation ground for football, cricket, hockey and other games. At the extreme southern end of the Galle Face Esplanade GaUe Face and in close proximity to the sea stands the luxurious Galle Hotel * For regulations respecting guides refer to Index. i 4 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Colombo Face Hotel. We now cross over the central road, avoiding the turn to Kollupitiya on the east side of the hotel, and pass by Christ Church and the Masonic Temple. slave island Next we cross a bridge into Slave Island, an unpleasant name given to this locality by the Dutch who used it as a prison for their State slaves. The coast railway line is now crossed, and we proceed along Union Place for about half a mile. The first turning to the left brings us immediately to some pretty lakeside views. Attention at this spot is divided between the charming landscape and the operations of the dhobies upon the banks in the foreground. Groups of bronze-tinted figures are waist-deep in the water, engaged in the destructive occupation of cleansing linen by beating it upon the rocks. Across the lake at this point is St. Joseph's College, an establishment for the higher education of Roman Catholic boys. It has five towers, and in general appearance somewhat resembles an Italian palace. It is erected on one of the most charming sites conceivable, environed with beautiful palms and flowering trees and overlooking the finest part of the extensive lake of Colombo. The lake Turning to the left we now drive down Vauxhall Road for a quarter of a mile and then turn sharplv to the left, crossing Union Place and making our way beneath an avenue of trees to another picturesque stretch of the lake. At this point are several charming pictures affording an opportunity not to be missed by the amateur photographer. This fresh-water lake is one of the most charming features of Colombo. Its rami- fications are so manv that one is constantly coming- across pretty nooks and corners quite unexpectedly, each fresh view presenting a wealth of foliage luxuriant beyond description. Palms in great variety intermingle with the gorgeous mass of scarlet flamboyant blossoms, the lovely lemon-yellow lettuce tree, the ever-graceful bamboo, the crimson blooms of the dark hibiscus, contrasting with the rich green of the areca, date and palmyra palms, the huge waving leaves of the plantain, flowering trees and shrubs of every description of tropical foliage, the whole forming to the rippling water a border of unrivalled beautv and unfailing interest. Park street We now leave the lake to explore the roads and houses of residential Colombo, which extends for about four square miles to the south of the lake and is centred by the Victoria Park. The Victoria Park is an ornamental recreation ground laid out with gardens, band stand and promenade, golf links, tennis courts, a galloping course for riders and a circular carriage drive. The whole is bounded by bungalows with their picturesque The Museum grounds. Here, too, will be found the Colombo Museum. The bronze statue on the lawn facing the entrance is that of Sir William Gregorv, one of Cevlon's most successful *#**%£ SLAVE ISLAND. 10. UNION PLACE. 13. VAUXHALL ROAD. HE GENERALS HOUSE. 16. BUDDHIST TEMPLE, iEW FROM THE GENERAL'S HOUSE. 17. BANYAN TREE. 18. VICTORIA PARK. W>tffW ~ - ,,-^J Sfi^&JF" *V - *sP r Sfeftfejl P| .■■kK ffi & 1 L £\"-— ■ **• 1 1 . . 19. EDINBURGH CRESCEN SlRINIWESA. 21. THE GARDEN CLUI &%%-* ^iriSH Hnimfl ,3&iSHM^^s . ™, -J, ■ Hjj;wu|r' r--*2g;^ -v - -™ "^ i:ift/ GREEN PATH 24. GEORGE WALL FOUNTAIN THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 17 Governors, who ruled the colony from 1872 to 1877, during Colombo which period the museum was erected. The scientific and educational value of this institution is recognised and appre- ciated greatly by a large portion of the community ; while it serves a still larger class as a show place always interesting and attractive. In the central hall are brasses and ivory. The Ceylon products room contains all manner of things peculiar to the colony : jeweller)', coins, models of various operations, including pearl fishing, masks of devil dancers, tom-toms in great variety, the sumptuously enshrined and devoutly wor- shipped Buddha's tooth, and ethnological models in great variety displaying many curious native costumes. In the archaeological rooms arc to be seen a highly interesting collection of works of art from the ancient ruined cities. The natural history galleries on the upper floors are filled with fine specimens of indigenous birds, beasts and fishes. The many curiosities of the insect world will surprise the stranger, for Ceylon abounds in insect life. This part of Colombo, including the Victoria Park and extending west and south of it in a whole series of cross roads and crescents, is popularly known as the Cinnamon Gardens from the circumstance that it was, in the time of the Dutch occupation of Colombo, one of their chief reserves under cultivation of that precious spice. But for the last half- century the bushes have been fast disappearing in favour of the beautiful bungalows and gardens which make the locality one of the most charming residential spots conceivable, the envy and admiration of visitors from the southern colonies. The greatest charm to many a visitor is the drive, which Reads a/the can be extended to ten miles or so, along the many parallel carfen"" roads, cross roads and crescents to the west and south of the Victoria Park. The houses, so different from those of colder countries, quite innocent of dirty chimney stacks and fire grates, are quite in accord with the charm of their surround- ings. Each residence nestles in a paradise of palms and flowering shrubs of infinite variety, gorgeous crotons and creepers innumerable, the latter overgrowing roofs and pillars and climbing the neighbouring trees, which they bespangle with their lovely blossoms. The Havelock Race-course is to the south of the Victoria The Race-course Park. Here the Colombo Turf Club has its regular race meetings. Gymkhanas and other sports are also held here at various intervals under the auspices of the Polo Club, whose ground is the open space inside the course. The Ridgeway Golf Links are reached by driving to the The Goij Links end of Horton Place. The course is extensive, complete and well laid out. The greens will be found very fast but generally excellent. i8 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Colombo SI. Thomas's College There are several interesting routes by which we may return to the Fort. If after our wanderings we happen to be near the race-course we shall drive down Race-course Avenue and return to Galle Face or the Fort by way of Flower Road, Green Path, or Turret Road and Kollupitiya. A drive round the suburb of Mutwal, to the north of the Fort, would make our acquaintance with Colombo nearly complete, and is to be recommended in case of this being our first experience of a tropical citv. Our way is through Main Street and the Pettah, where we shall again be interested in the quaint scenes of native daily life and occupation. We pass the Dutch Belfry, the Town Hall and the Market Place, and turn into Wolfendahl Street, which bears to the right and leads direct to a most interesting remnant of the Dutch occupation, a massive church in Doric style, built by the Dutch in 1749. The drive may now be continued in a north-eastcrlv direction to the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Santa Lucia, which is the finest building in Colombo. The nave is capable of accom- modating six thousand persons. In a north-westerlv direction another half-mile brings us to St. Thomas's College, one of the leading educational institutions of the colony, founded by Bishop Chapman, first Anglican Bishop of Colombo in 1851. From the tower of the Cathedral a good view of the harbour may be obtained. The suburb of Mutwal has been to some extent robbed of its beauty by the great encroachment of harbour works and fortifications, but north of these it is more beautiful and in- teresting than any other part of the coast near Colombo. 25. THE SPORTS CLUB CRICKET GROUND^ON GALLE FACE. CHAPTER III GENERAL DESCRIPTION OE THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY There is no consideration more important to the traveller who intends visiting a far-off country than the facilities afforded by its railways and roads. Fortunately Ceylon is well equipped in both respects. Her railway now affords an easy and even luxurious means of reaching- the most attractive parts of the country. It renders easily and quickly accessible the most beautiful scenery, the more interesting antiquities and all those fields of agricultural industry — the tea, the coconuts and the rubber, which have brought about the advanced state of prosperity which the colony enjoys. Xo other country in the world can take you in spacious and comfortable railway carriages on a track of five feet six inches gauge, over moun- tains at an altitude of more than six thousand feet. Yet such facilities are provided in Cevlon. In the following pages will be found described and illustrated the whole of the Ceylon Government Railway and the districts which it serves. The description is not limited to the various towns and villages which give their names to the railway stations, but is extended to those parts of the country which the traveller will be likely to visit by using the railway for the whole or part of his journey. The places are taken in order of stations, so that the traveller who possesses this book may read of each place or district as he passes through it. It will, however, be useful first to take a glance at the following general description of the various lines and the rules and regulations which have been made for the comfort and convenience of passengers. The traveller who will take the trouble to do this will find himself amply repaid bv the various facilities of which he may avail himself, but of the existence of which he might otherwise be ignorant. The Railway 20 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY The Railway The Ceylon Government Railway is State owned as its name implies and is under the control of the Ceylon Govern- ment. The total mileage at present open is 576 miles, of which 509 are on the broad gauge (5 ) 2 feet) and 67 on the narrow gauge (2% feet). The sections of the broad gauge line are the Main, Coast, Negombo, Northern and Matale lines. The narrow gauge are the Kelani Valley and the Udapussellawa lines. A new broad gauge section from Madawachchi to Talaimannar and a narrow gauge section from Avisawella to Ratnapura are at present under construction. Mam line The Main Line runs from Colombo in a north-easterly direction for about forty-five miles, when after Polgahawela has been reached it gradually winds south-eastwards until, at the terminus of Bandarawela (ifio 1 ^ miles), it is in the same latitude as Colombo. This line is by far the busiest and most profitable of the sections, due to the fact that it serves the great tea districts of the mountain zone. It was the first section of the railway to be constructed, and in its later stages, after the foot-hills are reached at Rambukkana (fifty-two miles from Colombo), will be found the chief engineering triumphs of the line. From Rambukkana the line rises 1,400 feet in the thirteen miles to Kadugannawa with a ruling gradient of 1 in 45 and curves of 10 chains (220 yards) radius. The " ghat " or hill-section may be said to begin at Nawalapitiya, the principal railway centre of the hill districts, eighty-seven miles from Colombo, and 1,913 feet above sea level. From this point the line rises almost continually with a maximum gradient of 1 in 44 and minimum curves of 5 chains (no yards) radius until it reaches a height of 6,225 f eet at Pattipola, 139 miles from Colombo. From this point, after passing through the summit-level tunnel, the line falls by similar gradients and curves to Bandarawela, its present terminus. Coastline The Coast Line follows the west coast in a southerly direction to Galle (71^4 miles) and thence, still along the coast, in an easterly direction, to its terminus at Matara (98 % miles from Colombo). The Negombo Branch leaves the main line at Ragama (9 miles from Colombo), and runs northwards through cinnamon and coconut estates to the seaside town of Negombo (i4 T 2 miles from Ragama). The Northern Line, one of the sections of the railway most recently completed, extends from its junction with the main line at Polgahawela (45^2 miles from Colombo) to Kankesanturai in the extreme north of the island, its distance from Polgahawela being 211*^ miles. Miliars The Matale Branch extends northwards for 21 miles from brancli Korthc line 27. FIRST CLASS COMPARTMENT ~ERTHS. .29. BUILDING RAILWAY COACHES IN COLOMBO. 30. REFRESHMENT CAR. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 23 Peradeniya junction (70)2 miles from Colombo on the main line) to Matale, which was the starting point for the long coach journey to the north prior to the construction of the Northern line. Kandy is situated on this branch, 74^ miles from Colombo and nearly four miles from Peradeniya junction. The Kelani Valley Line runs eastward from Colombo for A'e/am 4724 miles and serves the tea planting district from which it "' " y takes its name. The Udapussellawa Line runs from Nanuoya (128 miles udapmsellawa from Colombo) to Ragalla, a distance of 19 miles, and upon l '" e it is situated Nuwara Eliya, the sanitarium of Ceylon, 6,200 feet above sea level and 63 miles from Nanuoya. This branch is very similar to the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway of India, with a maximum gradient of 1 in 24 and minimum curves of So feet radius. The rolling stock of the railway is now constructed locally T i ie ro n; nj , in the workshops in Colombo, where over 1,000 workmen siock are employed under the superintendence of skilled European foremen. These shops are well equipped with pneumatic and other labour-saving machinery, whilst new tools are being added year by year. The older type of four-wheeled carriages were imported from England and erected in the colony, and there are still a good many of these on the line, but they are being steadily replaced by the standard type of bogie carriage forty-two feet long. These modern carriages, which are constructed of teak, are not of the Indian type, with its longitudinal seats, but of the English pattern, and are furnished with excellent lavatory accommodation. The outsides of the carriages are of varnished teak, whilst the interiors are of the same wood polished, picked out with satinwood and adorned with photographs of interesting places on the line. The line is well provided with sleeping and refreshment cars, the former running on the up and down night mail trains between Colombo and Nanuoya (for Nuwara Eliya), whilst the latter are run on the principal trains between Colombo, Kandy and up-country stations. Passengers to whom time is an object, and who wish to sleeting cars pay a flying visit to Nuwara Eliya, can leave Colombo after dinner, travel in a comfortable sleeping berth for the nominal sum of Rs. 2.50 (in addition to first-class fare), get an early tea or breakfast in the refreshment car before arriving at Nanuoya, and be in Nuwara Eliya before half-past eight next morning. In the opposite direction they can also make the night journey down between dinner one evening and breakfast the next morning, early tea being served by the attendant in the sleeping car. The catering for the refreshment cars is in the hands of a Catering private company, and meals can be obtained along the road in 24 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Railway comfort and at moderate prices, without the inconvenience and regulations ] oss f t [ me involved by the Indian system of " refreshment stops. " On the Northern line, where the traffic is too light for the running of a refreshment car, the through trains halt at Anuradhapura a sufficient length of time to enable passengers to obtain a satisfactory mid-day meal. In addition to the refreshment cars, the car company pro- vide breakfast, tiffin and dinner baskets on application, either from their depots in Colombo, Polgahawela and Hatton, or from the refreshment cars. There are three classes on the railways as in England, and the fares charged are exceedingly moderate. On all parts of the line, except the Hill section above Nawalapitiya, the standard single fare per mile is as follows, viz. first-class, 8 cents; second-class, 5*3 cents; third-class, 2 2 /z cents; and return tickets at a fare and a half are issued for all classes. Taking 6 cents as equalling one penny, the rate per mile for a first-class return ticket in the lower sections is one penny or the equivalent of the third-class fare in England. Colombo time is observed throughout the railway system. The Ceylon Currency is as follows : — English sovereign = rupees 15. ,, half-sovereign = rupees ""so. Rupee (silver = is. 4CI.) = 100 cents, qo cents (silver) 25 .- ( ... ) 5 ,, (nickel, square with rounded corners) 1 ,, (copper) Luggage The following is the free allowance of luggage per adult passenger, viz. : — First class, 112 lbs. ; second class, 84 lbs. ; third class, 56 lbs. For children with half tickets, half the above is allowed free. Children travelling free (viz., under 3 years of age) are not allowed any free quantity of luggage. Excess luggage is charged for at full parcels rates, which should be prepaid at the starting station, but if not charged for there, the excess may be collected at the end of the journey or at any intermediate point. A receipt should be obtained for all excess charges. Luggage in bulk can be forwarded at goods rates, which are obtainable on application to any stationmaster. Passengers are advised to be at the starting station in good time in order to admit of their luggage being weighed, labelled, and loaded in the train before starting time. The luggage must be well secured and properly addressed with the owner's name and destination, in addition to the railway destination label, which passengers should personally see affixed to the packages. It is necessary for passengers to obtain and produce their tickets before their luggage can be labelled. Where numbered luggage receipts are issued, it is necessary that these should be produced on arrival at destination' before the luggage can be delivered up. Care should be taken to remove all old labels from luggage, especially those for previous journeys on the C.G.R. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 25 Passengers should be careful to comply with these regulations, failing Railway which the railway will not be responsible for any loss or miscarriage. regu a 10n> Passengers may take into the carriages (at their own risk and in their Packages in own charge) only such small packages as can be placed under the seat carnages occupied by the owner, or on the hat-racks (where provided). Articles may not be placed in the gangways of carriages or entrances to lavatories. Passengers are earnestly requested to adhere to this rule, so as to prevent discomfort not only to themselves, but to their fellow passengers. The railway will not be responsible for any loss of or damage to the Responsibility following articles if conveyed as luggage, viz. : — Musical instruments, f "]^'"? ot plate, bullion, money, bills, deeds, notes or securities, precious stones, damage to jewellery, trinkets, watches, clocks, china, glass, or other frail or fragile luggage articles. Such articles will only be conveyed as parcels, and they must be insured as shown below. The liability of the railway for loss of or damage to passengers' luggage conveyed free is limited to Rs. 150 for first-class passengers, Ks. 100 for second-class passengers, and Rs. 50 for third-class passengers, unless the value is declared and an insurance charge of 1 per cent, on the excess value is paid before the luggage is deposited. Should passengers wish to leave their luggage at any station, they can Left Ivggagc do so on paying the cloak-room fee of ro cents per article for two days, and 5 cents per article for every additional day or part of a day. Bicycles are charged 25 cents each for first two days, and 10 cents for every additional day. A receipt must be obtained, which must be pro- duced before the articles can be given up again. Railway servants are strictly forbidden to take charge of any article belonging to passengers unless it is deposited in the cloak-room and a receipt obtained for it, as stated above. Any property of passengers found in the carriages, at the stations, or Lost luggage on the line, will be removed to the nearest station for twenty-four hours, after which it will be forwarded to the lost-property office in Colombo, and if not claimed within three months it will be sold. Should any passenger lose any article he should inform the guard of the train and the nearest stationmaster, and also report the loss as soon as possible to the Traffic Superintendent in Colombo, in order that imme- diate steps may be taken to trace the missing property. In cases where passengers are responsible for the loss of anv article, a small fee will be charged and satisfactory evidence of ownership demanded before the article is delivered up. Passengers who wish to secure the exclusive use of a compartment or Reserved carriage can do so on payment of the following charges, viz. : — First class, accommodation two-thirds of the seating capacity of the carriage or compartment re- served ; second class, three-quarters ; third class, four-fifths. To reserve a full compartment in the sleeping car, a first-class ticket and sleeping-car ticket must be taken for each berth in the compartment. Accommodation for invalids and through carriages can be arranged on invalid application to the General Manager, Colombo. accommodation Compartments for the use of ladies and young children only, will be and through provided without extra charge on the through trains on notice being given on the previous day to the stationmaster at the station from which the compartment is required. The sleeping-cars which run on the up and down night mail trains y/, r /,/„ between Colombo and Nanuoya are provided with accommodation for twelve passengers, namely, two four-berth and two two-berth compart- ments, and lavatory accommodation. Each berth is numbered and pro- vided with pillows, sheets, blankets and quilt, and an attendant accom- panies each car. The charge for each berth in the sleeping-car is Rs. 2.50 in addition to the ordinary first-class fare for the distance to be travelled. A sleeping- carrm Compartnn tits tor la/lies 26 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Railway car ticket must be purchased for each berth before the car is entered, and regulations it must be delivered to the car attendant. Children under twelve years of age accompanying adults may occupy sleeping berths on payment of half ordinary first-class fare plus full cost of a sleeping-car ticket, and two or more children may occupy the same berth with one sleeping-car ticket. Application for berths must be made not later than 6.30 p.m. at any station on the line, but payment will not be accepted nor accommodation provided until it has been ascertained that berths are available. One two-berth compartment in each saloon, with lavatory adjoining, nun.bered 1 and 2, is reserved for ladies, but if this compartment is not booked by 6.30 p.m. it will be available for married couples, and if dis- engaged at the time the train is due to start it will be given to gentlemen passengers. Ladies travelling alone are allowed to occupy this ladies' compart- ment only. The other two-berth compartment (which is provided with jug, basin, &c.) is suitable for married couples, but it is not reserved for this purpose, and is given to the first applicants. The berths in it are numbered 3 and 4. Ayahs are only allowed in the sleeping-car when the full compart- ment is paid for. Refreshment The refreshment cars are first-class carriages, and second-class passen- ears gers are only allowed to enter them for the purpose of obtaining refresh, ments, nor may they remain in the cars for more than one of the advertised stages Dogs and luggage may not be taken into refreshment cars under any circumstances. Smoking is only permitted when passengers are not taking meals, and then only with the consent of all other passengers in the car. Refreshment Refreshment rooms exist at Colombo (Maradana Junction), Polga- racms ' hawela, Hatton. and Nanuoya on the Main line, Alutgama on the Coast line, and Anuadhapura and Vavuniya on the Northern line. Refreshments at these places are provided at moderate prices. The guard of the through Northern line trains will wire free of charge for the provision of midday meals at Anuradhapura. Passengers from the Bandarawela line by the down night mail can have dinner ordered at Nanuoya by wire free of charge on application to the guard. Special traim A special train can be provided from Colombo to Kandv and back on payment of a minimum charge of \o first-class return fares (Rs. 9 is the first-class return fare) on application to the General Manager, Colombo. Steamer passengers wdio have sufficient time for a journey to Kandy during the stay of their boat in Colombo can arrange for a special through the steamer agents. The run takes a little over three hours each way. For other special trains the charge is Rs. 4 per mile for a single, and Rs. 6 per mile for a return journey, plus fares and luggage at ordinary rates for the passengers and luggage conveyed. The mileage will be calculated from the nearest station from which an engine can be supplied ; and the minimum charge for running a special is Rs. 50. Applications for specials should be made to the General Manager not less than twenty-four hours before the special is required, and no guarantee can be given that it will be provided. The booking offices will be open for the issue of tickets half an hour before the advertised time for the departure of trains, and may be closed five minutes before the departure time. In order to prevent inconvenience and delav, passengers are requested to provide themselves with suitable change, as "the booking clerks may not at all times be able to give change. Passengers should also examine their THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 27 tickets and change before leaving the booking "ounter, as errors cannot Railway afterwards be rectified. regulations The English sovereign and half-sovereign aie accepted at all booking offices, their equivalents being Rs. i c; and Rs. 7.50. Tickets are not transferable, and must be produced or delivered up Tickets whenever demanded by the railway servants. Single journey tickets are only available on the day of issue, or by a through train starting on the day of issue. First- and second-class return tickets for distances 10 miles and under are available for return within three days, inclusive of the day of issue and day of return {i.e., a ticket issued on Monday is available for return not later than Wednesday). Tickets for distances over 10 miles and up to and including 30 miles are available for return within seven days, inclusive of the day of issue and day of return, and tickets for distances over 30 miles are available for 30 days inclusive of the day of issue and day of return. For the convenience of tourists, Messrs. Thos. Cook & Sons have authority to issue coupons over the C.G.R. These are subject to the same conditions as ordinary tickets, but are available for two months and for break of journey where required. Passengers desirous of travelling beyond the station to which they have booked must, before passing that station, hand their tickets to the guard, who will see to the collection of the excess fare at the proper point, but under no circumstances can the advantage of a return ticket be obtained by payment of excess fare. Passengers cannot be rebooked at roadside stations to proceed by the train in which they have arrived. Holders of first- and second-class return tickets between stations over Break cf 30 miles apart are allowed to break their journey at an intermediate i"" r "0' station once on the outward and once on the homeward route, provided that they do not travel more than once in each direction over the same section of the line, and that the return journey is completed within the time for which the return ticket is available. "When passengers avail themselves of this privilege, they must on alighting from the train, produce their ticket to the stationmaster, who will endorse it ' L Broke journey at " (the name of the station being inserted) and initial and date the endorsement. Passengers holding first- and second-class return tickets between any stations 30 miles apart, of which Peradeniya Junction is an intermediate station, may travel into Kandy and break journey tfiere without paying excess fare between Peradeniya Junction and Kandy in either direction. In this case the tickets must be endorsed by the stationmaster at Kandy. Holders of first- and second-class return tickets between Matale line stations and stations beyond Kandy, but less than 60 miles apart, are allowed to break journey at Kandy provided they resume their journey the same day. Such tickets must be endorsed by the stationmaster at Kandy before the passengers leave the station premises. Children under three years of age will be conveyed free. Children of ChiLhcn that age and under 12 years will be charged half fare. One female servant only will be allowed to accompany her mistress in Female servant a first-class carriage (whether in charge of children or not) on payment and nurses of second-class fare, provided such an arrangement does not interfere with the comfort of other passengers travelling in the same compartment. Nurses in charge of children, when not accompanying their mistresses, must pay the fare of the class in which they travel. Should a passenger, from an unavoidable cause, be unable to obtain Travelling- a ticket before starting, he must as soon as possible report the fact to the without ticket guard, and pay his fare at the destination station, or earlier if demanded. A passenger travelling without a ticket, or with a ticket so torn or mutilated that the date, number of station from or to, cannot be de- 28 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Railway ciphered, is liable to be charged from the station from which the train regulations originally started, unless he can prove satisfactorily that he entered the train at some intermediate station. Excess fares Passengers who are called upon to pay excess fares should demand and obtain a receipt for the amount paid. Extension oj Passengers who are unable to use the homeward halves of ordinary *' cktt * return tickets within the specified time can have them extended on appli- cation at the station from which they are returning, and on payment of the necessary extra sum. special terms Special terms are granted to pleasure parties consisting of not less to parties of than io persons travelling by ordinary trains between stations not less travellers than 25 miles apart, and also to other special parties. Full particulars of the charges and regulations can be obtained on application to the General Manager, Colombo. Telegrams The travelling public are allowed to despatch telegrams through the Railway telegraph department at the rates of the Post Office telegraph department, provided they are bottd fide from a passenger or to a pas- senger travelling by tram. At certain stations ordinary postal messages are also dealt with. The Post Office rates are as follows : — First ten words, 25 cents ; each additional two words or less, 5 cents. The name and address of the addressee must be paid for, and also that of the sender if included in the body of the telegram and signalled. Though ever}' effort will be made to ensure quick despatch and correct delivery of telegrams, the railway will not be responsible for delay or non-delivery. Any person requiring to send a telegram relative to parcels, luggage, &c, such as requests for re-addressing, &c, will be charged 50 cents for such telegram, and a further sum of 25 cents if a reply is required. Should it be found that the telegram was necessitated by the fault of an}' member of the railway staff, the amount paid will be refunded. Passengers who may have left articles on the station premises or in the carriage in which they have travelled, and who wish inquiries made by wire, will be required to pay 25 cents for telegram of inquiry and 2^ cents for reply. If, however, the articles lost were booked and placed on the van, inquiry will be made by wire without charge. Ammunition Only safety breech-loading cartridges may be despatched by passenger train, and they are charged for at ordinary prepaid parcels rates, pro- vided they are packed in a box, barrel, or case of wood, metal, or other solid material of such strength that it will not become defective or in- secure whilst being conveyed. Horses, car- lne rates and regulations for the conveyance of horses, carriages, ria^es, motor motor vehicles, parcels, and petrol by passenger train, may be obtained on vehicles, parcels application to any stationmaster. Small animals, such as cats, puppies, mongooses, monkeys, mousedeer, Small animal &c, and poultry and other kinds are only carried in strongly-made square and poultry crates or hampers, and they are charged for by weight at parcels rates. T)„ rs Dogs in crates, cases, or bankers will be charged for by weight at parcels rates : when in dog-locker, 2^ cents each for every 25 miles or part of 2^ miles. Dogs for conveyance in the dog-locker must be provided with chain and leather or metal collar in good order, unless a letter of indemnity is furnished. Xo person is allowed to take a dog into a passenger carriage except with the consent of the stationmaster at the starting station and the con- currence of his fellow-passengers, and then only on prepayment of double rate for each dog. The acceptance of a dog at the double rate for carriage with the owner is subject to the condition that it shall be removed if subsequently objected to, no refund being given. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 29 mbusiibk d dangerous tides The railway will not be responsible for the loss of or injury to any dog Railway which may escape either in consequence of its becoming unmanageable, regulations slipping its collar, or by the breakage of the cram or collar by which ;t is secured. Bicycles (not packed), other than motor bicycles, when sent as parcels Bicycles or carried as passenger luggage, will be conveyed at owner's risk at i cent per mile over the Main, Coast, and branch lines below Nawalapitiya, and 2 cents per mile over the Main line and branches above Nawalapitiya. Minimum charge, 25 cents. The railway will not undertake to convey the following articles as parcels, viz. : — Gunpowder, fireworks, vitriol, aquafortis, turpentine, matches, mineral oils or acids, or any other combustibles or dangerous materials. Any person contravening this regulation will be liable to prosecution under the Railway Ordinances. The charge for insurance of articles conveyed by passenger train (which must be prepaid) is 1 per cent, on the value (minimum charge, R. 1), to be declared in writing at the time of booking. Stationmasters arc authorised to accept insurance rate on packages valued at less than Rs. 500. For articles valued at or above that sum, application for insurance is to be made to the General Manager, Colombo. Cheques or other orders for payment of money are not accepted unless authorised by the General Manager. Information regarding the conveyance of articles at goods rates may be obtained on application to any stationmaster or to the General Manager, Traffic Superintendent, or Goods Agent, Colombo. The railway will not be responsible for information given by others than the principal officers in charge of the different stations, of whom inquiries should always be made, or of the General Manager, Traffic Superintendent, or District Superintendents. Passengers are requested to report direct to the General Manager, /«, Traffic Superintendent, or District Superintendents any instance of in- civilitv, want of attention or misconduct on the part of persons employed on the railway. Complaints should embody the name and address of the complainant. Railway servants are forbidden to ask for or receive from the public Gratuities any fee or gratuity. Cheque. Inquiries >ility LIST OF STATIONS ON THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY MAIN LINE (Broad Gauge). Mileage Height Ulileage Height from Above Sea front Above Sea CoIo> nbo. Level. Colombo. Level. m. c. Feet. m. c. Feet. Colombo (Maradana 78 55 1572 Junction for Coast Ulapane 82 75 1846 and Kelani Valley Nawalapitiya . . 87 29 I9'3 Lines) 37 16 Galboda 94 38 25S1 Kelaniya 3 49 14 Watawala . 100 13 3259 Hunupitiya 5 42 11 Rozelle ■ 103 6.3 374= Ragama (Junction Hatton . IoS 16 4141 for Negombo Line) 9 00 J 3 Kotagala . 1 1 1 =5 4065 Henaratgoda 16 40 36 Talawakcle ■ "5 69 393- Veyangoda. 22 54 61 Watagoda . 120 9 4400 Mirigama . 3° 54 i6a Nanuoya (June ion Arnbepussa 34 45 182 for Nuwara E iya Allawa 40 24 190 and Uda Pusscl- Polgahawela (Junc- Iawa Lines) . . 128 6 S=9i tion for Northern Ambawela . ■ 117 S 6064 Line) 45 34 244 Pattipola . ■39 6 62=5 Rambukkana 52 11 290 Ohiya . - M3 33 5902 Kadugannawa . 65 00 1690 Kaput ale . ■ 153 43 4765 Peradeniya (Junction Diyatalawa . 156 76 43 6 7 for Kandy and Bandarawela . 160 S8 4036 Matale Line) 70 46 1553 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY N EGO 11 BO LINE (Broad Gauge). COAST LI NE (Broad Gauge ). Mileage Mi cage from from Ragama Colombo Junction. {Maradant m. c. f unction) Kanclana .....20 m c. Ja-ela ...... 4 Pettah* ... 1 6 S i d u wa Roa d . . . . 7 7 Fort* 1 45 Katunayake . . . 10 45 Slave 1 sland 2 -4 Nebombo . . . .1441 Kollupitiya . 3 25 MATALE LINE (Broad Gauge). Bambalapitiya 4 45 til 1 1 cage H ei glit Wellawatta *. 5 70 from Above Sen Dehiwala 7 -14 P eradcmya Level . Mount Lavinia 8 7° ] unction. Angulana 1 1 22 m. c. Feet. Lunawa 12 5 Peradeniya (New) . 40 1572 Moratuwa *3 7 Kandy 3 70 1 DO 2 Panadure 17 5i Mahaiyawa 4 71 I7 26 Wadduwa 37 Katugastota 7 -5 IS 3-4 Kalutara, North 26 6 Wattegama it 33 1620 Kalutara, South 27 28 Ukuwela 17 5 j 1292 Katukurunda 29 S Matale 2IO 1 2oS Paiyagala, North 3i 16 UDAPUSSELLAWA LINE Paiyagala, South 3' 75 (Narrow Gauge). Maggona 33 10 Mileage 1 1 eight Beruwala 35 7 from Above Sea Alutgama (for Bcntota) 38 28 Nan /toy a Level. Induruwa 41 54 ] unction. Kosgoda 45 29 m. c. Feet. Balapitiya 49 63 Nuwara Eliya . . 6 45 619S Ambalangoda 52 62 Kandapola . . . 12 33 63 1 6 Hikkaduwa . 60 M Brookside . . . 16 45 4981 D d a n d u w a 64 U Ragalla . . .1917 5818 Gin tot a 68 28 Galle .... 7 1 68 NORTHERN LINE (Broad Talpe .... 7 s 2 3 Gauge). Ahangama S 4 -4 Mileage Weligama S 9 5S from Kamburugamuwa 95 4 Pol gahawela Matara 98 36 J unction. * These two stations will shortly be m. c. amalgamated in a new " Fort " station Potuhera ■ ■ • • ■ 7 53 about midway between the existing Kurunegala 13 IS stations. Wellawa . 19 iS KELANI VALLEY LINE Ganewatta 26 39 (Narrow Gauge). Maho 40 3 Mileage Ambanpola 47 21 fro m Galgamuwa 53 4o Colombo Talawa 7i 75 (Maradana Anuradhapura 8l 2! fund to 71 ) . Madawachchi 97 31 m. c. Vavuniya 111 77 Cotta Road ..... 2 20 Mankulam 140 21 Nugegoda 5 5 2 Paranthan 163 6 Pannipitiya 10 49 Elephant Pass ( lalti ng plac Ilomagama . 15 2 3 only) 168 71 Padukka 74 Pallai . 1/6 54 Waga 27 48 Kodikamam 185 77 Kosgama 30 57 Chavakachcheri 190 41 Puwakpitiya 34 43 Navatkuli 195 7i A visa-well a . 3*5 66 Jaffna 2on 24 Dehiowita 42 5o Cbunakam 2n6 14 Karawanclla 45 40 Kankesanturai 211 IS Yatiantota Al 60 MANNAR LINE (Broad Gauge). RATNAPURA T INF. (Narrow Gauge). (Still under construction.) (Still under construction.) Mileage Mil -age iron, from Madawachchi, Avisawella. m. c. m. c. Cheddikulam . . . . 13 Getahctta ... .4 M u r u n k a n 35 Kendangamu w a . 9 3 Mannar .... 50 Parakaduwa l 3 S3 Pesalai ..... 59 Kuruwita J 9 16 Talaimannar (for Inc ia) 66 Ratnapura 26 71 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 31 NOTE CONCERNING THE OLD COLOMBO TERMINUS AND MARADANA JUNCTION STATIONS The starting point for the Main Line until recently was the " Terminus " Station, namely, the terminus of the original "Colombo to Kandy Railway," the first section of which was opened in 1865. When subsequently the " Coast Line " was constructed, engineering difficulties precluded its being led through the "Terminus," and so the Junction was formed at Maradana, and the "Terminus" became a small branch of about a quarter of a mile in length. Apart from the inconvenience of working such a station, the growing goods traffic of Colombo necessitated extension of the main goods yard, adjoining the Terminus Station ; and after the considera- tion of many schemes for grappling with the problem of increased passenger and goods traffic in an already crowded locality, it was decided to make Maradana Junction the principal passenger station of Colombo, and to close the Terminus for passenger traffic, the space thus released being utilised for extension of the goods yards, railway workshops and other improvements. There is still preserved as a relic of old-time ideas a hand- some bronze sundial, erected on one of the old Terminus platforms in the early days of the railway, to enable railway men to tell the time without the expense of clocks and watches. The present Maradana Junction Station, completed in 1909, contiasts favourably with the old-fashioned structure that sorely tried the temper of Colombo residents hastening to Nuwara Eliya for week-ends or brief holidays at Easter and Christmas. The new station is built on modern lines. A handsome two-storied building provides a booking office for first and second class passengers (with railway offices above), and thence a foot-bridge leads to electric luggage lifts and to the platforms below, of which there are three, accommodating (besides the Kelani Valley narrow gauge trains) five broad gauge trains at a time. There are comfortable waiting-rooms for all classes, and a good refreshment room. At the present time both Coast and Main Line trains start from and finish at Maradana Junction, but on completion of the new " Fort" Station (probably about the beginning of 1911), the principal up-country trains will depart from and arrive at that station, thus serving the " Fort " district of Colombo more conveniently. CHAPTER IV THE COAST LINE ITINERARY Coast Line t H e seaside railway from Colombo to Matara affords every facility for visiting the villages and towns of the south coast, where Sinhalese life pure and simple can be seen to greater advantage than anywhere else in Ceylon. Here is to be found the purely Sinhalese section of the inhabitants of the island, a circumstance due to the fact that the lowlands of the south were not invaded by the Malabars, who in early times con- quered and held possession of the northern provinces for long periods, with the result of a considerable commixture of the Aryan and Dravidian races. The line begins at Maradana Junction in the heart of Colombo, and the next four stations are also in Colombo, after which follow four more which may be called suburban. At present the suburban coast line is single, and its stations are old-fashioned and insufficient for the heavy traffic, but the work of doubling the line and rebuilding the stations as far as Moratuwa (13m. 7c.*) is in progress, and the undertaking should be completed about the end of 1911. Upon leaving Maradana Junction the line follows the banks of the lake for the first two miles, when it passes under the Kollupitiya Road to the coast. At the end of the first mile we reach The Pettah (im. 6c). — This station serves the most densely populated portion of Colombo where the native trader chiefly dwells. A description of the locality which it serves has already been given in our account of Colombo. This station will shortly be closed, and the existing Pettah and Fort stations will be amalgamated at a new and commodious " Fort Station," about midway between the existing stations. The Fort The Fort (im, 45c). — From the platform of this station which we illustrate by our plate 31 there is a remarkably beautiful prospect. As stated above, a new Fort Station is under course of construction. When completed, the principal up-country (i.e. Main Line) trains will start from and terminate at the Fort. The station is largely used by the clerks of the European mercantile firms and the government offices in the Fort who live in the suburbs and in the more distant towns and villages to the south of Colombo. It is also a most convenient starting point for passengers from the steamships and visitors at the Grand Oriental and Bristol hotels, who take trips to Mount Lavinia and the various places of interest farther south. * The distances of all stations from the Maradana Station at Colombo are indicated in miles and chains ; there being 80 chains in a mile. 32 > A 7 ■ \ . J mJ la&fly fA Was 31. THE FORT STATION. ■ ' r v*V"^'B HE - jf^k ^^^ ^m^ 4&**M 1 i;' : 32. SLAVE ISLANO BRIDGE. 33. FROM SLAVE ISLAND BRIDGE. 34. THE COAST LINE AT WELLAWATTA. 35 WELLAWATTA STATION ■:-,'■> . ' '■': ' \JjK *V»fc^ "-'.' ■SpjwjSfe J ■Jjjfl -*\^K/.p^*RSf» t '.^ijp^l ■;,. ."'♦SB*? '.. ;.""-• '--isM^i' ■■■■: '■'-'■■ i^SkWA ■^^W^Wl zap i.JB w*HH "V ' ■f 36. BAMBALAPITIYA. 37. WELLAWATTA. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 35 Slave Island (2m. 24c). — Slave Island station is situated Coast Line near the southern end of Galle Face and is therefore most con- slave island venient for the visitors of Galle Face Hotel. Near it a narrow channel joins that part of the lake which borders Galle Face to the larger stretch which reaches from Slave Island to Polwatte. The railway crosses the channel at the point illus- trated by our plate 32, and from the bridge we get the view in plate 33. It will be noticed that we are in picturesque surroundings already, and this condition will con- tinue for the whole ninety-eight miles of the line, increasing, if possible, in beauty, and never absent. We now pass beneath the Kollupitiya Road, and arrive upon the sea-beach just below the Galle Face Hotel. Kollupitiya (3m. 25c). — Kollupitiya station is situated Kollupitiya just where Green Path and Turret Road converge and reach the main Galle Road ; and it is therefore most conveniently placed for residents round and about the Victoria Park and Cinnamon Gardens. It also serves the populous district of Kollupitiya itself, which contains more bungalows of the better class within a given space than any other portion of Colombo. Many Europeans who prefer residences quite close to the sea live here, as do a large number of the burgher and native com- munities. The main road is somewhat squalid here and there with bazaars and various detached boutiques, but always beau- tiful by reason of the flora in which the squalor is embowered. Bambalapitiya (4m. 45c). — Bambalapitiya is a suburb of Bambalapitiya Colombo with characteristics somewhat similar to Kollupitiya, but less densely populated, and therefore more desirable as a residential neighbourhood. Near the station are many exten- sive and luxurious bungalows. Wellawatta (5m. 70c). — Our illustration (Plate 35) will wellawatta give a good idea of the existing stations in the suburbs of Colombo, but a newer and better type will shortly replace them. It will be noticed that they border the sea very closely; but it must be borne in mind that there are no considerable tides to reckon with, the sea rising to an extent almost imperceptible. The heavy seas of the south-west monsoon, however, have not to be lost sight of, as they sometimes treat these stations more roughly than is good for them. In fact, the result of the south-west waves on the railway line between Colombo and Mount Lavinia has been so serious that the Government have had to go to large ex- pense in protective works to preserve the railwav, including the opening of a special quarry at Ragama (nine miles from Colombo on the main line), where huge blocks of stone arc conveyed to the coast and systematically packed along the edge of the railway by means of large cranes to stop the encroach- ments of the sea. The scenery around Wellawatta is notable 6 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY for the pretty landscapes observable from the railway bridges. Examples are given in our plates 34 and 37. coast Line Dehiwala (7m. 44c). — Dehiwala, although in effect a Dehiwaia suburb of Colombo containing some excellent bungalows, in Fishingindusiry reality retains its older character of a fishing village, and the visitor will find it a convenient and attractive place in which to observe some of the quaint operations of the fishing industry and the remarkable fish themselves, with their curious shapes and beautiful colours. The number of species caught amount to no less than six hundred. Of those which are edible the one most preferred is also the most plentiful — the Seer. In size and shape this fish somewhat resembles the salmon, but its flesh is white. In flavour it is by some thought to be superior to salmon ; but however this may be, it is certain that few people tire of Seer, although it is daily served at some meal throughout the year. Fish auctions take place each day upon the sands ; and very interesting are they to the visitor, not only as a study of native life, but as an exhibition of the strangest creatures brought forth from the deep. Among the most curious are the saw- fish. These are something like sharks in the body, but the head has attached to it a huge flat blade, with sharp teeth pro- jecting on cither side. This frightful weapon in a full-grown fish of some twelve or fourteen feet long extends to about five feet in length. With it these monsters charge amongst shoals of smaller fish, slaying them right and left and devour- ing them at leisure. The saws are sold as curiosities and can generally be obtained in Colombo. The red fire-fish, some- times brought ashore, is of a remarkably brilliant hue. The sword-fish, the walking-fish with curious arms and legs, by means of which it crawls along the bottom of the sea, the dog- fish marked like a tiger, and various species of the ray are frequently caught. Our plate 38 shows the coast from Dehiwala to Mount Lavinia. Here sea turtles of great size are frequently captured. Bnddhht Another attractive feature of Dehiwala is the Buddhist Temple. Although smaller than some others within a short distance from Colombo it is most accessible and the plcasantest to visit, owing to its being clean and well kept. Within are to be seen huge images of Buddha, both sitting and reclining. Mural paintings, of the crudest character, represent various legends, and especially set forth the various forms of punish- ment in store for those who disobey the Buddhist precepts. Before the images offerings of flowers are heaped ; including lotus blossoms, temple flowers, and the blossoms of the areca and coconut palms. No worshipper comes empty-handed ; and the fragrant perfume is sometimes almost overpowering. 38. THE COAST FROM DEHIWALA TO MOUNT LAVINIA. 39. BUDDHIST TEMPLE AT DEHIWALA. Bafefe -k^k, *Jfc Kv*£!' ^'~*^iaal& z HBa££ ■fcHMfeUs^^ff T""" 1 k^" £i f BbHub^m.' ' Ill^PI^^ -/S^"-' : -' ^-' -^ 40 MOUNT LAVINIA. 41. BATHING HOUSE. 42. HEADERS FROM THE ROCKS. 43. MOUNT LAVINIA STATION. 13 ' M /™"" i B ,T ' -, j PR-Vt^-"" Mi i?JS?"~ ; ' *^ip "** "V' ■ - ' '''£ ■! ' i 1 * 5 j ' • !>' 'st *". f --' i .It- .' % \ ' S ! rl^'v, .: i ' 1 "V'i '"■". / *' 1 1: _• \\ LjLi Ta^J iff Mnl i m <*dip33i 1 k_l* eHii Ib fe ■■■■■-■ 53-57. PICNIC PARTIES ON THE LAGOON AT MORATUWA. 44 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY fronds of the coconut palm, as seen in our illustrations, the one for the party and the other for commissariat and attendants ; to accompany these hire also a couple or more small out- rigger canoes. It will be observed that Moratuwa is within the region of cultivated cinnamon. In our peregrinations we shall have noticed large gardens of this renowned laurel, which still attracts cultivators even to an extent almost inducing over- production. Indeed the supply is so fully equal to the demand that the profit now obtainable by its cultivation is insufficient to attract the European investor. We cannot here afford space to trace the history of this interesting product from the time when Moses was commanded to take 250 shekels of cinnamon as part of the ingredients for the manufacture of holy anointing oil for consecration purposes. Where the cinnamon of Moses was grown is a matter of some doubt ; but the tree is regarded by the highest authorities as indigenous to Ceylon where the situation and climate are so exactly suited to it that none so fine and delicately aromatic has been found elsewhere. It has been referred to by many ancient classical writers and always re- garded as a greatly prized luxury — a gift for kings. In the markets of early times it can only have existed in small quantities, for we find the price paid in ancient Rome to have been the equivalent of £8 sterling per pound weight. Its cultivation is not referred to, and there seems to have been an impression even so late as the middle of the seventeenth century that cinnamon was only good when allowed to grow in a wild state. The cinnamon of commerce flourishes only in a small portion of Ceylon, near the coast, from Negombo twenty miles north of Colombo to Matara at the extreme south of the island. Where it grows the air is moist, the rainfall copious and frequent, and the soil dry and sandy on the surface with a stratum of richer soil beneath. Some trees are found farther inland in the wooded valleys that intervene between the suc- cessive ridges of the Kandyan mountains, but they give a coarser bark with a strong flavour which is not appreciated. Cultivation has also been tried in the Kandyan country, but has not resulted in any measure of success. The trees in an uncultivated state grow to the height of twenty to thirty feet, and the trunk may be three feet in circumference. The leaf is said to have a flavour of cloves, but the stalks taste very pleasantly of cinnamon. The young leaves are of mixed flame-colour and vellow ; after a short time they become of a beautiful pea-green, and upon reaching maturity they put on a dark olive tint. The blossoms arc white with a brownish tinge in the middle, and produce fruit in the form of an acorn but more diminutive. The trees culti- vated to produce the cinnamon of commerce arc not allowed to 58. LOPPING THE CINNAMON TREES. 59. CINNAMON PEELERS. 4b THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY grow above ten feet. The branches that are lopped off to be barked are of about the size and thickness of an ordinary walking stick. The trees can be grown from seeds or shoots. When they are about three years old they afford one branch fit for cutting ; at five years they give three and at eight years ten branches of an inch thickness. At twelve years the tree is in its greatest perfection, but it will flourish for a century. The tree blossoms in January ; in April the fruit is ripe and the cutting is done from May to October. The harvest opera- tions are these : the Chalia * goes forth into the gardens, selects a tree the suitability of which he distinguishes by its leaves and other characteristics. When the tree is seen to bear fruit well it is in good health and the bark will peel without difficulty. To prove whether it is ripe the Chalia strikes his hatchet obliquely into the branch ; if on drawing it out the bark divides from the wood, the cinnamon has reached maturity ; but if not it must go on growing. The sticks are gathered by boys and tied into bundles with coir strings ; they are then carried to the peeling stores. The operation of peeling the sticks requires considerable skill. A knife with blade of copper two and a half inches long, something like that used by shoemakers, sharp pointed and slightly hooked, is employed. The peeler seated on the ground makes two parallel cuts up and down the length of the bark, which, after being gradually loosened with the point of the knife, he strips off in one entire slip about half the circum- ference of the branch. If the bark does not come away easily the sticks are rubbed vigorously with a round piece of hard wood which has the effect of loosening it. The ultimate object of the methods employed is to make the bark up into quills, a quill being a solid rod of cinnamon resembling a thin cane four feet in length, in which form it is exported ; the pieces of bark when stripped are therefore placed round the sticks both with a view to preserving their shape and as a convenience for the next operation. They are now allowed to remain for three to six hours, when fermentation takes place and the bark is ready for skinning, which process is accomplished in the follow- ing manner. The Chalia sits with one foot pressed against a piece of wood from which a round stick slopes towards his waist. Upon this stick he lays the slip of bark, keeps it steady with the other foot, and holding the handle of the knife in one hand and the point of it in the other, scrapes off the skin, which is very thin, of a brown colour on the outside and green within. This treatment of the bark leaves only that part which has the desired delicate taste ; it is of a pale yellow colour and a parchment-like texture. The bark is now left to ferment * The Chalias are a caste of low grade whose calling is that of cinnamon searcher and peeler. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 47 and dry, which if the weather be favourable takes about thirty Coast Line minutes. The next process is that of forming the quills. The smaller pieces are inserted into the larger, and both contracting still closer under the process of drying form solid rods. They are afterwards rolled into perfect shape and made up into bundles. Cinnamon oil is distilled from the chips and trimmings of the quills. Altogether there are now about forty thousand acres of cinnamon under cultivation in Ceylon. Panadure (17m. 51c). — Panadure, a town of 2,000 in- Panadure habitants, has many of the characteristics of Moratuwa. Its estuaries, which are more extensive, are dotted with islands that add an extra charm to the landscape. They are the retreats of multitudes of water-fowl and are covered with exquisite vegetation. The passenger should look out for the beautiful view from the railway bridge crossing the mouth of the river near the station. Quaint sights are frequently to be seen here, especially when the native fishermen are dis- porting themselves upon the piles of the fish kraals. The station is in the heart of the town and is provided Accommodation with the usual waiting-rooms. There is an hotel quite close "", 7 , y , a „ OT to it called the Station View Hotel, and a good rest-house about half a mile distant. Previous notice should be given if food is required. Horse carriages and bullock hackeries can be obtained near the station at very moderate rates. The chief local agricultural products are coconuts, areca Local products nuts, plantains, cinnamon, tea, rubber, paddy, betel and pepper. Arrack is distilled in great quantity and contributes the greater portion of the freight to the railway here, about eighty tons a month being despatched, and twenty-five tons cf vnegar. The visitor to Panadure will find the townspeople engaged Manufactures in the manufacture of tea chests, brass and silver work, coir rope and matting, agricultural implements, furniture and carriages. There are two interesting historical events that are asso- Historical ciated in the popular mind with Panadure. Both were battles. incld ? nts The first occurred in the twelfth century, when Alekeswera, a famous general of King Parakrama Bahu of Polonnaruwa, met the Indian invaders near Panadure and defeated them. The second belongs to the struggle for supremacy between the Dutch and Portuguese in the seventeenth century. Marching three thousand strong from Kalutara to Colombo, the Dutch had safely crossed the Panadure River, when their progress was disputed by seven hundred picked troops of the Portuguese who had been employed in the wars against the Kandyan King. The latter were surrounded and five hundred of them 4S THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY slain ; the survivors succeeded in reaching Colombo again, but in such sorry plight that half of them died of their wounds. Wild lowl in prodigious numbers, and the reptile denizens ol the lake, its islands and the luxuriant woods that surround it, provide good sport for week-end parties from Colombo. A most enjoyable trip may be made by coach from Pana- dure to Ratnapura (forty-two miles), returning by boat upon the Kaluganga or Black River to Kalutara (see Kalutara). Wadduwa (21m. 37c). — Wadduwa is a village of about 3,000 inhabitants. It owes its name, said to be derived from wake, curve, and duwa, island, to the physical circumstance that it is surrounded by a narrow canal. The station deals only with passenger traffic. It is situated in the village, which is entirely embowered in palms. Its produce is coconuts, cinna- mon and betel, and its manufactures, coir rope and matting, and to a small extent brass work and silver and gold jewellery. There is no special attraction or accommodation for visitors. Kalutara North (26m. 6c.) and Kalutara South (27m. 28c). — Kalutara is a large town of considerable im- portance, in a beautiful situation at the mouth of the Kaluganga or Black River. It boasts of two railway stations which serve the north and south of the town respectively. One is on each side of the river, which is spanned by two large iron bridges. The older bridge until recently carried both the railway and road (as depicted in plates 60 and 61), but as it was not considered sufficiently strong for the more modern (and con- sequently heavier) engines and trains a new bridge has been completed in 1910 for the railway alone, and the old bridge has been given over entirely for road traffic. The two bridges lead to Kalutara South, the older and more important part of the town. From the old bridge we get our view (Plate 63) showing the quaint boats consisting of two dug-outs joined by a platform or deck upon which is built a house with plaited fronds of the coconut palm. By means of these boats the native trades between Kalutara and Ratnapura, the city of gems, about fifty miles up-river. Perhaps this is the finest stretch of river scenery in Ceylon ; but the visitor who wishes to explore it will (pending completion of the railway extension to Ratnapura at end of 191 1) drive to Ratnapura from Avisawella station on the Kelani Valley line (twenty-seven miles) or from Panadure station on this line (forty-two miles) and sail down the river to Kalutara. To go up the river by boat is a long and wearisome business owing to the rapidity and volume of the stream. 1 '■ ■*»-«B»i k1 '^wfi^H HM J^Hg ■IwaI 66. ROAD SCENE IN KALUTARA. 67. VIEW FROM TEAK BUNGALOW. 4 'M$m 88. DUTCH HOUSE IN KALUTARA. 69. FRUIT BAZAAR. f35SH BSSfei, mB^^S^^^*- '"''"' .■LA.- t' ; C''/' • |H > *^B^^^^^- ■ '*"* ' ~f ^^Jjjt, hi j .1 1-J*i* i ; V . .- ~ 70. THE KACHCHERI. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Si nga from Rainapura to Kalutara A /tractions of Kalutara The sail down from Ratnapura to Kalutara is a perfect Coast Line rhapsody of delight ; the shores are resplendent with colour rlu . Kal „ and beauty of trees and flowers ; now a temple lifts its head above the foliage ; now a village encompassed by groves of tamarinds, jaks, talipots and kitul. Along the banks on either side wave the yellow stems and leathery leaves of the bamboos, while the broad and rippling stream bears us on its bosom in one long dream of loveliness for the whole fifty miles of our journey. The enjoyment of the natural beauties of Kalutara is not spoilt by the presence of a teeming population. The well laid out and park-like appearance of the town as approached from the southern end of the bridge gives a pleasant first impres- sion, and one hears without surprise that the place has enjoyed a great reputation as a sanitarium from the time of the Dutch, by whom it was held in great esteem. The remains of the old fort (Plate 65) which they built upon a natural eminence at the mouth of the river are conspicuous as we leave the bridge. Upon this site now stands the new residence of the chief Government official of the district, and immediately below it are the Kachcheri or Government Offices (Plate 70). The Anglican Church of St. John (Plate 64) comes next into view ; it was built in 1876 and was the first new church consecrated by the present Metropolitan Bishop of Calcutta when Bishop of Colombo. A short distance farther on we find ourselves in the heart of the town, where the law courts are seen on the right and the police station on the left embowered in glorious foliage (Plate 66). A new rest-house of two storeys with every convenience and comfort for the traveller faces the sea and esplanade near the law courts. It has ample accommodation for six visitors — six bedrooms and six bath-rooms, in addition to a spacious dining-room and broad verandahs. Excellent catering will be found, no previous notice being required here. There are also five native hotels in the town. Carriages can be obtained at the rates of one rupee (is. 4d.) for the first hour and 25 cents (4d.) for each subsequent hour. The charge for long journeys in visiting distant tea and rubber estates is 50 cents (8d.) per mile. Bullock hackeries can be hired at the rate of 25 cents (4d.) per. mile. Near the rest-house is Kalutara South railway station. The Dutch houses with their double verandahs (Plate 68) add decidedly to the picturesqueness of the roads, which reaches its highest development at Kalutara. Most charming is an inlet of the sea which washes the embankment of the railway as it leaves the town. The road and rail here run along- side of each other. A short distance beyond the scene in our picture we come upon the curious and beautiful tree illustrated in plate 72, a fine old banyan (Ficus indica), which Local accommodation Pictiu fcatur, Kalut, bas'ccti 52 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Coast Line extends to a great height and has thrown an arch across the road. The upper portion harbours a mass of parasitic plants and ferns of exuberant growth, the whole forming a lofty rampart of vegetation from which depend the filaments and aerial roots of the parent tree in graceful and dainty tracery. Our plate shows only the lower portion of this wonderful tree. We now turn off the main road and drive through the back streets, although that somewhat disparaging epithet is hardly suitable as applied to lanes where slender palms with sunlit crowns form a lofty canopy from which garlands hang in natural grace over every humble dwelling; where even the palm-thatched roofs are often decorated by the spontaneous growth of the gorgeous climbing " Neyangalla " lily. In this fairyland we strike the note of human interest ; for here is Nonahamy seated at the entrance of her dwelling engaged in the gentle occupation of weaving the famous Kalutara baskets. These dainty little articles are made in numberless shapes and sizes, and for a variety of useful purposes, from the betel case and cigar case to the larger receptacle for the odds and ends of madame's fancv work. Those of the ordinary rectangular sort are made in nests of twelve or more, fitted into one another for convenience in transport, and the visitor seldom comes away without a nest or two of these most useful and very moderately- priced articles. The process of manufacture is simple : children are sent out into the jungle to cut off the thin fibres from the fronds of the palm illustrated in plate 73 ; these are split into narrow slips and dyed with vegetable dyes black, yellow and red, and then woven by the skilful fingers of girls. Toddy and At Kalutara we are in the midst of another industry which '"'"" /l ' is of immense proportions and productive of a large amount of revenue — the distillation of arrack. We shall have noticed the apparent barrenness of the coconut trees in the extensive groves through which we have passed. This peculiarity is due not to the inability of the palms to produce fine fruit, but results from the somewhat unnatural culture, by which they are made to yield drink in place of food. Each tree extends beneath its crown of leaves a long and solid spathe in which are cradled bunches of ivory-like blossoms bearing the embryo nuts. When the branch is half shot, the toddy-drawer ascends the tree by the aid of a loon of fibre passed round his ankles, giving security to the grip of his feet, which owing to their innocence of shoes have retained all their primitive prehensile endowment, and proceeds to bind the spathe tightly in a bandage of young leaf ; he then mercilessly belabours it with a bludgeon of hard wood. This assault is repeated daily for a week or more till the sap begins to appear. A portion of the flower-stalk is then cut off, with the result that the stump begins to bleed. The toddy-drawer now suspends beneath each 72. BANYAN TREE. 73. KALUTARA BASKET TREE. [ FB&- '-\ -^Ssdt- / i *gi>J f ' " w8z!L~)&3l? i r$ r» v ' "^ uNfg - '# ... 47. THE TODDY DRAWER. 75. THE ASCENT OF THE TODDY DRAWER. 76, FROM PAIYAGALA CROSSING. 77. BERUWALA BAZAAR. FISHING BOATS AT BERUWALA. C3. BERUWALA BAY Local products THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 55 maltreated blossom a small earthenware chattie or gourd to Coast Line receive the juice. This liquor is toddy. Day by day he ascends the tree and pours the liquid from the chattie into a larger vessel which he carries suspended from his waist. In many groves of coconut palms there is a network of ropes reaching from tree to tree ; for our drawer is a funambulist of some skill, and even on a slack rope he will frequently make his way safely to the next tree; but not always. Sometimes he falls, and as the ropes are from sixty to ninety feet above the ground the result is always fatal. The number of such accidents recorded annually is upwards of three hundred. " Toddy " is probably a corruption of the Sanscrit tari, palm liquor ; but doubtless a Scotsman is entitled to claim the credit of the application of the term in its European shape to the wine of his country. Toddy is in great favour amongst the natives as a beverage, and when taken at an earlv stage of its existence is said to be pleasant and wholesome ; but after fermentation has made progress it is intoxicating. Toddy may be regarded as the wine and arrack the brandy into which most of the former is distilled. The chief local products are coconuts, tea, rubber, paddy, betel, cinnamon, mangosteens and plumbago. There are about thirty plumbago mines in the district turning out upwards of a thousand tons a year. There are also seventeen thousand acres of tea and many thousands of acres of rubber. Katukuruxda (29m. 8c). — Katukurunda is a village of Katukurunda about 2,000 inhabitants who are accommodated by the railway with a passenger station. There is no rest-house or hotel. The coconut palm is the staple product, while the manu- factures are limited to the spinning of coir yarn, and the fashioning of articles of brasswork. Paiyagala North (31m. 16c.) and Paiyagala South (31m. Paiyagala 75c). — Paiyagala North is simply a passenger station without waiting-rooms and there is no other accommodation at or near it. Paiyagala South is of greater importance and does a con- siderable business in goods as well as passengers. These stations serve a population of about 7,000, the inhabitants of a group of villages including Induruwegoda, Palevangoda, Kachchagoda, Gabadagoda, Pothuwila, Parranikkigoda, Goma- ragoda, Pahalagoda, Mahagammedda and Veragala. The names of the villages from which the stations take their names are Maha-Paiyagala to the south and Kuda-Paiyagala to the north. These villages are almost as picturesque as their ;,„■;„, names. The level crossing where the Colombo-Galle Road '"'J passes over the railway is a charming subject for the artist ; and the avenues from the station both north and south (Plates 76 and 78) are especially beautiful and give a very 56 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Coast Line good idea of the groves of palms in which these stations of the coast line nestle. Conveyances Visitors to Paiyagala should send on a servant to engage hackeries, which are not always in readiness here. They can however generally be obtained, the rate being 25 cents a mile. Local products Coconuts, toddy, arrack, paddy, cinnamon and areca nuts are the chief products. Tea and rubber are also sent to this station from estates a few miles distant. Fishing is an important industrv, and Paiyagala South supplies Colombo with about five tons of fish a month. Some indication of the occupation of the people may be gathered from a recital of the railway freights, which average in a year 210 tons of arrack, go tons of plumbago, 75 tons of timber, 40 tons of tea, 30 tons of copra, 50 tons of areca nuts and 10 tons of coir yarn. There is also a considerable trade in cabook stone for building purposes. Maggona Maggona (33m. ioc). — Maggona is a village of about 3,500 inhabitants, mostly of the fisher caste. It affords no special attractions or accommodation for visitors. The Roman Catholics have made it a mission station of considerable im- portance, where they have a large reformatory as well as industrial and other schools. Beruwaia Beruwala (35m. 7c). — Beruwala, or Barbcryn as it is often called, is situated upon one of the most picturesque bits of coast in Ceylon. Its charming bay, always lined with quaint craft and busy with the operations of the fishermen (Plates 79 and 83), extends to a headland of considerable prominence, off which lies the island of Welmaduwa. Here will be seen one of the Imperial lighthouses built in the form of a round tower of grey gneiss rock. The structure is 122 feet high and its light can be seen at a distance of nineteen miles. The traveller who wishes to see the beauties of the bay should make his way along the road shown in plate 83 and hire an outrigger canoe to visit the island. Should he be interested in the methods of fishing employed by the natives (Plate 79) this will prove an admirable place to watch their operations. The Beruwala bazaar (Plate 77) is a particularly lively one and ministers to a large population ; for the villages here are grouped rather densely together. We illustrate the railway station (Plate 78), which, it will be noticed, is laid out for both passengers and goods. Aiutgama Alutgama (38m. 28c). — Alutgama station serves a popu- lous district, and is therefore necessarily provided with con- siderable accommodation both for goods and passengers including a refreshment room. The products of the district THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 57 despatched by rail are considerable and include plumbago, tea, Coast Line coral, lime and arrack. We are, however, more interested in the circumstance that Alutgama is the station for Bentota, a Bentota village blest with such beautiful surroundings that it has always been in favour as a quiet honeymoon resort. The rest-house is one of the coolest on the coast ; it is spacious, salubrious and prettily situated on a point of the beach where the Bentota River forms its junction with the sea. The opportunities for quiet seclusion, a table well supplied with all the luxuries of the province, including oysters, for which the place has a local renown, and the exquisite scenery of the district attract many visitors. But a greater attraction of the place is the river. Boats may be hired quite close to the rest-house. It is best to engage a double-canoe with platform. On this deck com- fortable seats, or even chairs, can be placed, and if an early start is made, before the sun's rays become very powerful, a trip of some three or four miles up the river will be found to be a delightful experience. Bentota lays claim to several of Antiquities the most ancient Buddhist Wihares in Ceylon. One of these, the Galapata, is situated on the south bank about three miles up the river, and should be visited by the tourist. It contains some interesting relics of earlv times, amongst them a stone door or window frame, said to date from the reign of Ring Dutthagamini, B.C. 161. The carved scrollwork upon it is the finest of the kind to be met with. Induruwa (41m. 54c). — This is the latest railway station induruwa opened on the coast line. It serves a population of about 3,000, who are mostlv cultivators of coconuts, paddy, areca nuts, plantains, and cinnamon. There are no special attrac- tions for visitors. Rosgoda (45m. 2gc). — At Rosgoda we alight upon a Kosgoda platform adorned with flowering shrubs and plants of beautiful foliage. The village and its neighbouring hamlets contain a population of about 12,000, spread over an area of thirty square miles. There is no special accommodation for travellers at or near the station, but at Uragasmanhandiya, three and three-quarter miles inland, there is a Government rest-house, where two bedrooms and food supplies may be found if previous notice is given to the rest-house keeper. Hackeries, single and double bullock-carts, and horse carriages can be hired at Rosgoda. To the west of the village the land is charmingly undulated, and exhibits a beautiful panorama of hills interspersed with paddy fields. In this direction, at about the third mile, is Uragasmanhandiya, for some years the Volunteer Camp of Exercise. The site was chosen by the late Colonel Clarke on account of its combined features of a suitable parade and training ground and picturesque surroundings. 58 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Coast Line Local products Manufactures Balapitiya Ambalangoda Local products There are many traces of ancient civilisation in the neigh- bourhood, among them the ruins of an ancient Walauwa (native chief's residence), dating from the year 1600, besides about a dozen other old Walauwas. The present inhabitants are mostly Sinhalese and of the Salagama caste. Coconuts, bread fruit, areca nuts, betel, pepper, cinnamon, jak, citronella and rubber are all cultivated here. Copra to the amount of about 250 tons, cinnamon 100 tons, coir yarn 200 tons, plumbago 60 tons, and arrack 40 tons per annum are despatched by rail. The manufactures of Kosgoda include basket-making, lace, silver and brass work, knives, carts, skilfully carved furniture, bricks, earthenware, copra, coconut oil, coir yarn, coir ropes, various products from the kitul palm, ekel and coir brooms, citronella oil, cinnamon oil and native medicines. From the above account it will be apparent that the visitor who desires acquaintance with Sinhalese life and pursuits in their most unsophisticated state should take advantage of the opportunities offered by Kosgoda. Balapitiya (49m. 63c). — The railway station of Balapitiya serves a local population of about 1,000. For the visitor staying at Bentota or Ambalangoda on account of sport or for the sake of beautiful scenery, it also provides facilities for exploring the shores and islands of the extensive lagoon that lies at its feet. This grand stretch of water, flanked by mountain scenery, and dotted with a hundred islets, ranks very high amongst the many natural beauties of the southern province. It is but three miles from Ambalangoda and eleven from Bentota, and, thanks to the railway, is so easy of access that it should be visited by all tourists who stay at the rest- houses of those places. Ambalangoda (52m. 62c). — Ambalangoda invites the European resident in Ceylon and the visitor alike as a pleasant seaside place where good accommodation and excellent food can be obtained, and where the rare luxury of bathing in the open sea can be enjoyed in perfect security. The Resthouse is one of the most comfortable of its kind and possesses eight bedrooms. The spacious enclosure surround- ing slopes to the coast, where a natural barrier of rocks at once protects the bather from the attacks of sharks and pre- vents him from being carried out to sea by dangerous currents. Our illustration (Plate 85) will give the reader some idea of the natural features of the bath and its surroundings. The visitor will find other attractions, too, at Ambalangoda, which with the surrounding hamlets has a population of 25,000 people, engaged mostly in agricultural pursuits. Coconuts, tea, paddy, cinnamon and areca nuts are the chief products. 84. SINHALESE CHILDREN, SOUTH-WEST COAST. 85. COAST AT AMBALANGODA. ■ ■■ " — •» 86. DUTCH GATEWAY AT GALLE. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 61 Hikkaduwa (6om. 14c.). — This station serves a popula- Coast Line tion of about 4,000, engaged in the cultivation of coconuts, Hikkaduwa areca nuts, tea, paddy and cinnamon ; and in the preparation of coral lime, plumbago mining and the manufacture of coir yarn, lace, drum frames, and metal bowls used by Buddhist monks. Dodaxdtwa (64m. 13c). — Dodanduwa is famous for its Dodanduwa plumbago and coir rope. It supplies annually about 1,000 tons of the former and 300 tons of the latter. It possesses an asset of natural beauty in Ratgama Lake, which is quite close to the station. In the fields bordering this lake snipe shooting is very good during the latter months of the vear. About six miles west of Dodanduwa lies Baddegama, renowned as the oldest mission station of the English Church. The Church Missionary Society has the honour of having made the first effort here, and the results have been most encouraging. Gixtota (68m. 28c). — Gintota is a village of about 2,500 Qintota inhabitants, most of whom are occupied in coconut planting and the manufacture of coir rope from the fibre of the coconut husk. Its interest to the visitor, however, centres in the lovely scenery of the Ginganga, which here flows into the sea. The source of this river is near Adam's Peak. In its course, which is fifty-nine miles long, it drains no less than four hundred square miles of land. Galle (71m. 68c). — Galle, the chief town of the Southern Qaiie Province and seat of provincial government, claims consider- able attention, combining as it does a wealth of historical interest with great natural advantages. For upwards of a thousand years before Colombo assumed any degree of mer- cantile importance, Galle was known to the eastern world as a famous emporium. The places hitherto visited by us have for the most part greatly changed in character during the last fifty years, and the descriptions of them by earlier writers would not hold good to-day. But this venerable port of the south is a striking exception, and the visitor will find very little at variance with Sir Emerson Tennent's account, published in the middle of the last century. "No traveller fresh from Europe," says Tennent, "will Pkturesqne ever part with the impression left by his first gaze upon f iat " r " tropical scenery as it is displayed in the bay and the wooded hills that encircle it ; for, although Galle is surpassed both in grandeur and beauty by places afterwards seen in the island, still the feeling of admiration and wonder called forth by its loveliness remains vivid and unimpaired. If, as is frequently the case, the ship approaches the land at daybreak, the view recalls, but in an intensified degree, the emotions excited in childhood bv the slow rising of the curtain in a darkened 62 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Coast Line Galle in modern times Galle s flourishing period Vicissitudes Consolations theatre to disclose some magical triumph of the painter's fancy, in all the luxury of colouring and all the glory of light. The sea, blue as sapphire, breaks upon the fortified rocks which form the entrance to the harbour ; the headlands are bright with verdure ; and the yellow strand is shaded by palm trees that incline towards the sea, and bend their crowns above the water. The shore is gemmed with flowers, the hills behind are draped with forests of perennial green ; and far in the distance rises the zone of purple hills, above which towers the sacred mountain of Adam's Peak." In modern times Galle has been the mart first of Portugal and afterwards of Holland. The extensive fort constructed by the Dutch is still one of the chief features of the place and encloses the modern town. Although dismantled, few portions of it have been destroyed, and the remains add greatly to the picturesque character of the landscape. Amongst a large number of interesting remains of the Dutch period are the gateway of the fortress, the present entrance from the harbour, and the Dutch church, both of which we illustrate. A steep and shady street known as Old Gate Street ascends to the principal part of the town. The most flourishing period of Galle during the British occupation was that immediately preceding the construction of the harbour at Colombo. Then Galle obtained by far the largest share of the modern steamship trade. Its harbour was always regarded as dangerous, owing to the rocks and currents about the mouth ; but it was preferred to the open roadstead of Colombo, and the P. & O. and other important companies made use of it. Passengers for Colombo were landed at Galle, and a coach service provided them with the means of reaching their destination. Besides the trade that follows on shipping, the town was alive with such business as travellers bring. The local manu- facturers of jewellery and tortoiseshell ornaments, for which Galle has always been famous, met the strangers on arrival and did a thriving business. In fact, Galle was a miniature of what Colombo is to-day. But the new harbour of Colombo sealed its fate. The manufacturers now send their wares to Colombo, and the merchants have to a great extent migrated thither. The prosperity of Galle has therefore suffered a serious check; its fine hotel knows no "passenger days," its bazaars are quiet and its streets have lost their whilom busy aspect. Nevertheless, it is the seat of administration of a large, populous and thriving province, and must always remain a place of considerable importance. Its share of commerce will probablv increase as cultivation and mining still further extend. It is a great centre of the coconut industry, which has in recent years developed to a remarkable degree. THE ENGLISH CHURCH GALLE. 89. THE DUTCH CHURCH, GALLE. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 65 The visitor will be impressed with the cleanliness no less Coast Line than the picturesque character of the streets, which are shaded streets md by Suriya trees. The buildings, as will be seen from our photo- f^'"^'"' graphs, are substantial and well-kept, some of the houses of the wealthier residents being admirably planned for coolness. Lighthouse Street contains the humbler dwellings; but even here the houses are spacious, and each has along the entire front a deep and shady verandah supported on pillars. This street probably presented the same appearance during the presence of the Dutch. The English Church of All Saints', Churches visible in our photograph of Church Street, is the finest in Ceylon, both in its architectural features and the manner of its building. The old Dutch Church, paved with tombstones and hung with mural monuments of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, has now an antiquarian interest. It is still used by the Presbyterian section of the inhabitants, and is well worth the attention of the visitor as an excellent specimen of the places of worship which the Dutch erected wherever they formed a settlement. Churches and forts are the abiding evidences of the solid determination of the Dutch to remain in Ceylon. They had come to stay, and consequently spared no cost or trouble to make their buildings of a permanent character. The British colonists, on the other hand, make Ceylon their temporary home, and seldom intend to die there : consequently thev do not display great enthusiasm for permanent institu- tions ; indeed, a whole century has passed without any attempt to build a cathedral worthy of the name, and outside Galle there is scarcely a beautiful English church in the island. Galle possesses a municipal constitution ; the area within the municipal limits is about seven square miles, with a population of 37,000. The New Oriental Hotel, having been built when Galle was the principal port of call between Aden, the Far East and Australasia, possesses accommoda- tion almost in excess of the present needs of travellers. Pleasant driving excursions can be made among the environs of Galle, which are always and everywhere delightful and interesting. The traveller will find facilities of every kind in the way of conveyances and boats, while banks, social clubs, a golf club, and other institutions usual in large towns are at hand. Talpe (78m. 23c). — Talpe railway station has been estab- lished chiefly for goods traffic in the products of the coconut. It is about two miles from the village, which has a population of about 1,000. There is no rest-house or hotel. Ahangama (84m. 24c). — Ahangama has about 2,000 inhabi- tants engaged in cultivation of tea, coconuts, palmyra, paddv, betel, arccas, pepper, plantains, cinnamon and citronella. v Talpe Ahangama 66 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Coast Line Coggala Lake, about five square miles in extent, is two miles distant from the station. Sport, particularly snipe and wild boar, may be obtained in the neighbourhood. Weligama Weligama (89m. 58c). — Weligama is one of the many interesting spots on the south coast where the currents have scooped the shore into bays of exquisite beauty. Primitive nature in her most delightful moods here greets the traveller, who, after his recent experience of Galle, with all its drowsy luxury of a later stage of civilisation, cannot fail to be struck by the fact that Ceylon is a land of contrasts. Indeed it is one of the charms of travel in this fascinating land that so short a distance transports us from the up-to-date world to the manners, customs and surroundings of past centuries, and provides that change of thought and scene which induce the mental and physical benefits which are to most of us the end and object of our travel. There is a comfortable rest-house three-quarters of a mile from the station, pleasantly situated so as to command a good view of the bay. Good food and accommodation, boats, hackeries and attendants are always available. Excellent sport in fishing is obtainable. There are many objects of interest which will be pointed out by the villagers. Loral products The population of Weligama is about 10,000. Its products are coconuts, areca nuts, cinnamon, citronella and plumbago. Lace and coir rope are its manufactures. Kamburu- Kamburugamua (95m. 4c). — Kamburugamua railway station serves the scattered villages which lie midway between Weligama and Matara, having a population of about 6,000. There are no facilities or accommodation beyond the mere platform of the station, nor is there need for them as Matara is only three miles distant. The chief products are coconuts, citronella and vegetables. In some months of the year no less than ten tons of pumpkins are despatched by rail to various markets. Coir yarn and lace are manufactured in every village. There is very good snipe shooting in the neighbour- hood. Matara Matara (98m. 36c). — Matara, the present terminus of the coast line, is a beautiful and interesting town of about 20,000 inhabitants, lying at the mouth of the Nil-ganga, or Blue River, which flows into the sea within four miles of Dondra Head, the southernmost point of the island. Apart from the beauty of the river, which like all others in Cevlon is bordered on either bank with the richest vegetation, the chief points of interest in Matara are connected with Dutch antiquities. Of these a short account only must suffice. There are two forts and an old Dutch Church still in good preservation to testifv to the importance with which Matara was regarded in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. 68 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Coast Line The smaller of the forts is of the well-known star formation. The star fort It wa s built by Governor Van Eck in 1763. The gateway is in particularly good preservation, and although the arms above the door are carved in wood every detail is still perfect. At the present time this star fort serves as the residence of the officer of the Public Works for the Matara district. The main fo,t The larger fort consists of extensive stone and coral works facing the sea and extending inwards on the south till thev meet the river, which forms part of the defences. Within the enclosure are most of the official buildings of the place, includ- ing the Courts, the Kachcheri, and the residence of the Assistant Government Agent. To these buildings must be added the rest-house, which is important to travellers and will be lound very comfortable. The appearance of the fort, from within, is distinctly park-like and picturesque owing to the beautiful trees which have been introduced in recent years. These afford delightful shade and render a stroll beneath them pleasant when the sun does not permit of walking in the open. The land around Matara is extremely fertile and no place could be more abundantly supplied with food, especially fish, the variety of which is very large. The neighbourhood affords most delightful walks and drives through the finest avenues of umbrageous trees to be met with in Ceylon. A/i-oan^a Our picture of the bathing-place on the banks of the Nil- ganga possesses one peculiarity which may seem curious to the European who is not acquainted with tropical rivers — the fence of large stakes constructed to keep out the crocodiles. Without this, bathing would be unsafe and would probably be indulged in at the cost of many a human life. This photo- graph also presents a typical scene in the background from which some idea may be gathered of the recreation grounds of a southern town in Ceylon. Here golf and cricket claim their votaries as in larger places, and facilities for enjoying these games are not wanting. The local accommodation for travellers is considerable. Ladies will find a well-furnished waiting-room at the railway station. The government rest-house is ten minutes' drive from the station ; it has seven good bedrooms and spacious dining- hall and verandahs. Horse carriages can be obtained at the rate of one rupee for the first hour and twenty-five cents an hour for subsequent time; and bullock hackeries can be obtained at twenty-five cents an hour. The chief local pro- ducts are coconuts, paddy, betel, arecas, kurrakan, pepper, plantains, cinnamon and citronella. The local manufactures are baskets, lace, jewellery, coir and furniture. Matara being an " Assistant Government Agency " is fur- nished with courts and the residences of government officers. Local accommodation Local products J\laiuifactutcs CHAPTER V THE MAIN LINE ITINERARY The main line passenger trains at present leave Colombo at the Maradana Junction; but as alterations are in progress, which will involve a change in the location of the main passenger station, it will be advisable to obtain the latest information at the date of travelling. Leaving Colombo, the main line passes through marshy lands and backwaters until at the second mile the River Kelani is crossed and a fine view afforded on either side. At the fourth mile the first station appears, and although it is situated in the village of Paliyagoda it takes its name of Kelaniya from the district. Kelaniya (3m. 49c). — There is no hotel or rest-house Kelaniya accommodation at Kelaniya, nor are there any conveyances for * '*■** hire with the exception of bullock-hackeries, which, however, will generally be found sufficient for all requirements. The agricultural products are coconuts, paddy and vegetables. The women of the villages are chiefly occupied in carrying the vegetables upon their heads to the markets of Colombo, and large numbers of them will be noticed engaged in this useful work. The chief native industry is the manufacture of bricks and tiles for building purposes. Our illustration (Plate 91) gives a very good idea of a tile yard ; in it can be seen some of the oldest fashioned tiles, which are semi-cvlindrical. These have been superseded to some extent by the flat-shaped pattern from Southern India ; but for simplicity, general utility and coolness thev have no equal. Other industries of Kelaniya are the desiccating of coconuts for purposes of confectionery, and the storage and preparation of artificial manures for the tea and other estates. The latter is a business of considerable magnitude. * The number of feet {riven in the margins indicate the elevations of the station above sea level. 69 92. SCEN xuc muco KP' 4fJI THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 7 1 But the chief object of interest to the visitor is the Kelaniya Main Une Wihare (Buddhist Temple), which is held in great veneration by all the Buddhists of the lowlands, and to which many thousands come on full-moon days, bearing gifts of fruit, money and flowers for the shrine. This building stands near the river bank, about two and a half miles from the railway station. The present temple is about two hundred years old, but its dagaba or bell-shaped shrine is much older and was probably erected in the thirteenth century. The site is, how- ever, one referred to in history and legend in far more remote antiquity. The image of Buddha, thirty-six feet in length, and the brilliant frescoes depicting scenes in his various lives, are fittingly found in the place which he is supposed to have visited in person during his life. However much traditions may transcend the limits of strict historical verity, it is undoubted that Kelaniya was a place of considerable fame in early times, and it is not surprising that its venerable temple and its sacred shrine attract both pilgrims from afar and non-Buddhist sight- seers of many nationalities, especially as the railway has added so much to the facilities for reaching them. Hunupitiya (5m. 42c). — Hunupitiya is best known to Colombo people for its rifle range, where practice is carried on by the military and police from Colombo. The accommodation is limited to the large waiting hall of the railway station and a restaurant called the Hunupitiya Bar, about one hundred yards from the station. Coconuts and paddy are the chief agricultural products, while small plots of betel, arecas and plantains are also cultivated. The manufactures are limited to coir yarn spun from the husks of the coconut. Raoa.ua Junction (9m.). — At Ragama cultivation increases in variety, and we notice both tea and cinnamon in addition to the coconuts and paddy. The inhabitants of the village are Sinhalese, and number about 2,500 irrespective of those who are temporarily in the observation camp, an institution from which Ragama derives much of its present importance. The reason for the existence of this camp is found in the fact that Ceylon is dependent upon India for the supply of labour for the tea estates, involving a constant immigration of Tamil coolies to the extent of about 150,000 per annum. In order that these new-comers should not import disease into the various districts of Ceylon they are, immediately upon disembarkation at Colombo, placed in quarters specially provided at the root of the breakwater. Here they are subjected to a thorough inspec- tion, bathed and fed. Next they are entrained on the spot and conveyed to Ragama, where they are kept under observation until it is considered safe for them to proceed to their various Ragama Junction 72 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Main Line destinations. During the Boer War a large number of recalci- trant prisoners-of-\var were removed from the delightful camp of Diyatalawa and placed here in order that thev might not infect the rest with their discontent. Ragama is the junction for the branch line to Negombo, 1 4/2 miles in length. The line runs through typical local scenery and cinnamon and coconut plantations. Negombo, which is situated on the sea, is an exceedingly pretty town, and even before the advent of the railway was a favourite motor run, the rest-house keeper being noted for his fish breakfasts. (See also Negombo section, pages 230-232). Near Ragama are the famous Mahara quarries whence was obtained all the stone for the construction of the breakwaters and harbour works of Colombo. Another quarry has been opened close by the old one for the supply of stone for protective works on the coast line and other railway requirements. The branch railway line which will be noticed diverging to the right leads to the quarries. Henaratgoda Hexar atgoda (16m. 40c). — Henaratgoda is a busy little 3 6/l ' rf town of about 5,000 inhabitants, situated amidst well-watered fields and gardens whose products are of considerable variety and importance. Gardens devoted to the culture of the bete! Local pioduds vine are in evidence, and supply railway freight to the extent of twenty tons of leaves a week in addition to large loads depatched by other means. The district also produces areca nuts, pepper, cinnamon, rubber, tea, paddv and coconuts. Its chief interest, however, centres in the Botanic Gardens, where we may see some of the finest Para rubber trees in the colony. Many passengers from various countries who call at the port ol Colombo make a trip to Henaratgoda for the special purpose of seeing these trees. The railway and other facilities afforded render the journey easv and comfortable. There is a good rest-house near the station and refreshments are pro- curable without previous notice. Buggies or hackeries can be Botanic Gardens hired near the station for driving to the gardens about a mile distant. The usual charge is twenty-five cents or fourpence a mile. The garden is one of a number of such institutions that are under the Government Department of Botany and Agriculture with headquarters at Peradeniya, where its Director and his extensive scientific staff of experts reside. The Henaratgoda gardens were opened in 1876 for the purpose of making experiments in ascertaining suitable subjects for cultivation in the heated lowlands. It was about this time that the Para rubber seed was planted, and manv of the trees that we see there to-dav are therefore upwards of thirty years old. These, together with others more recently planted, provide an excellent and encouraging object lesson to the investor in the latest " boom " of tropical culture. 93. HENARATGODA RAILWAY STATION. 94. RUBBER TREES IN HENARATGODA GARDENS. 05. RUBBER TREES, HENARATGODA. Photo by Air. Kelway Bai>ibcr. RUBBER PLANTED AMONQ TEA. 97. VILLAGE SCENE, VEYANGODA. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Although the Royal Botanic Gardens at Henaratgoda have recently been so much regarded as the show place of rubber trees to the neglect of all else, the visitor will find many fine- specimens of other useful trees and plants, including ebony and satinwood. The cultivated area is about thirty acres. Veyangoda (22m. 54c). — Veyangoda, the first stop of the fast trains to Kandy, lies midway between Negombo on the west coast and Ruanwella in the Kelani Valley, and derives its importance from the main road between these places which on the one side contributes a large freight in dried fish from the coast for the estate coolies in the hills, and on the other tea and various products for the port of Colombo. The large factory visible from the railway is the desiccating factory of the Orient Company. There is a good rest-house, about five minutes' walk from the station, situated on a knoll overlooking the railway line, containing two single and two double bedrooms. Food should be ordered in advance. The village of Veyangoda is about three miles from the railway station, upon the old Colombo-Kandy road. Near it, at the twenty-fourth mile from Colombo, is situated the his- toric residence of Sir Solomon Dias Bandaranaike, C.M.G., the Maha Mudaliyar of Ceylon (a title signifying the head of the Mudaliyars or low-country chieftains). The present Maha Mudaliyar is also native aide de camp to his Excellency the Governor of the Colony, and amongst the duties of his office is that of presenting on State occasions the various native dignitaries to the Governor. Mirigama (30m. 54c). — To the traveller proceeding to Kandy for the first time the lowland scenery, as the train proceeds from station to station, is an ever fascinating panorama. He cannot fail to feel enchanted bv the alternating scenes of primitive husbandry, glimpses of villages embosomed in palms, magnificent groups of tropical trees, and particularly with the effect of the masses of thick forest broken up at fre- quent intervals by deep recesses devoted to the cultivation of paddy. From November to January, when the corn is rising from its watery bed, snipe and other aquatic birds appear in large numbers between Veyangoda and Rambukkana and afford excellent sport. In February and March the attention is arrested by the quaint operations of harvest, which are con- ducted with a ceremonial to be illustrated and described later in connection with the Kandyan villages. The country around Mirigama is very favourable to the cultivation of the coconut, as is evidenced by the remarkable yield of fruit on many of the trees. It is not often, however, that the traveller can spare the time to inspect the various The Maha Mudaliyar -G THE CEYLOX GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Main Line features of interest in this important branch of tropical agri- Mi, I ses of (lie coco/utt culture, but he may as he passes through it welcome some account in these pages supplemented by illustrations that belong to the district. Its ubiquity is often the only thing noticed by the visitor about the coconut palm, and from this arises the erroneous supposition that it is an indigenous plant, whereas the native saying that it will not flourish away from the sound of the human voice is nearer the truth. The coconut is the chief source of Sinhalese wealth ; but unlike cinnamon it depends upon man for its existence, and if left to nature pines and dies. It is true, therefore, that wherever you see the coconut palm there is population. Although European colonists have considerably extended its cultivation it is pre- eminently the national tree, the friend of the natives, all of whom share in its benefits, from the wealthy owner of tens of thousands of trees to the humble possessor of a tithe of one. There are few gifts of the earth about which so much may be said ; its uses are infinite, and to the Sinhalese villager all sufficient. " With the trunk of the tree he builds his hut and his bullock-stall, which he thatches with its leaves. His bolts and bars are slips of the bark, by which he also suspends the small shelf which holds his stock of home-made utensils and vessels. He fences his little plot of chillies, tobacco and fine grain, with the leaf stalks. The infant is swung to sleep in a rude net of coir-string made from the husk of the fruit ; its meal of rice and scraped coconut is boiled over a fire of coco- nut shells and husks, and is eaten off a dish formed of the plaited green leaves of the tree with a spoon cut out of the nut-shell. When he goes fishing by torch-light his net is of coconut fibre, the torch or chulc is a bundle of dried coconut leaves and flower-stalks ; the little canoe is the trunk of the coco-palm tree, hollowed by his own hands. He carries home his net and string of fish on a yoke, or pingo, formed of a coconut stalk. When he is thirsty, he drinks of the fresh juice of the voung nut ; when he is hungry, he eats its soft kernel. If he have a mind to be merry, he sips a glass of arrack, distilled from the fermented juice, and he flavours his currv with vinegar made from this toddy. Should he be sick, his body will be rubbed with coconut oil; he sweetens his coffee with jaggery or coconut sugar, and softens it with coconut milk ; it is sipped by the light of a lamp constructed from a coconut shell and fed by coconut oil. His doors, his windows, his shelves, his chairs, the water gutter under the eaves, are all made from the wood of the tree. His spoons, his forks, his basins, his mugs, his salt-cellars, his jars, his child's money-box, are all constructed from the shell of the nut. Over his couch when born, and over his grave when buried, a 98. RESIDENCE OF THE MAHA MUDAL1YAR-' SIR* 'SOLOMON DIAS BANDARANAIKE. 09. A PROLIFIC TREE, 100. A COCONUT GROVE. 101. THE CHEKKU OR OIL MILL. 102. MIRIGAMA COCONUT ESTATE. Export of oil and ji bra THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 79 bunch of coconut blossom is hung to charm away evil Main Line spirits."* As an object of commerce coconut oil, of which upwards of 5,000,000 gallons are annually exported, holds the first place. Next in importance is the fibre of the husk known as coir. This is exported to the extent of about 10,000 tons annually. The export of copra (the dried kernel of the nuts) amounts annually to about 375,000 cwt., while that of the desiccated nut for confectionery amounts to upwards of 16,000,000 lbs. From this recital of figures it will be rightly surmised that a very small proportion of the annual yield of nuts leave the country in their natural state, nearly all the export trade being in manufactured products. One thousand millions is a reasonable estimate of the year's supply of coco- nuts in Ceylon, about two-fifths of which are exported in the form of oil, copra, confectionery and husked fruit, the re- mainder being consumed by the population chiefly as food and drink. In Colombo there are mills containing machinery of the Coconut mill most powerful and ingenious character for the expression of the oil from the coconuts. Their design and construction are the jealously guarded secret of the firms who own them, and a mystery to the general public; but the " chekku " or Sin- halese mill illustrated by plate 101 will not escape the notice of the stranger. There are about three thousand of them in Ceylon. This primitive apparatus consists of a large mortar, ihechekku generally of hewn stone, but sometimes of iron or wood, with a pestle worked by a lever which is drawn in a circle by a pair of bullocks. The rude construction of the apparatus, weighted at the end of the lever with roughly hewn rocks upon which the scantily clad driver disports himself, and the ear-splitting creaks of the timber as the poor little bullocks communicate motion to the pestle by means of their humps form one of those typical Oriental scenes which have not changed for a thousand years, and victoriously hold their own against the innovations of the foreigner even in this age of scientific appliances. The average yield per annum of a coconut tree is about fifty nuts, but exceptionally prolific trees are common enough on well cultivated plantations, and of these the yield may reach one hundred and fifty or more. A specimen is given in plate 99. It will be observed that at least fifty nuts are clearly visible, and as many more are hidden from view. The yield Prolific bees of this fine tree must be upwards of two hundred in the year. * This charming description of the Sinhalese villager's necessities supplied by this bountiful palm is from the pen of the late Mr. John Capper. So THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Main Line Local ticcommoda tion Ambepussa itejeet Alawwa igo/l-ct The nature of the soil and the method of cultivation doubtless account for difference in crop as they do in other branches of agriculture. The stranger from Europe often makes his first close acquaintance with the unhusked coconut at the railway stations of Ceylon, where little brown urchins, with hatchet in one hand and in the other several nuts suspended by stalks, peram- bulate the platforms shouting " Kurumba, Kurumba. " The thirsty traveller is thus invited to drink the water of the fresh coconut, which is at once wholesome, cool and refreshing. At Mirigama the traveller is accommodated in a neat little rest-house containing four bedrooms and the usual dining hall and verandahs. It is situated a mile from the railway station in an elevated position commanding beautiful scenery. Food can be obtained here without being ordered in advance. Good hackeries can be hired at twenty-five cents or fourpence a mile. The manufactures comprise baskets, such furniture and bullock-conveyances as are required for local use, and desic- cated coconut to the extent of about one hundred tons a month. There are plumbago mines in the district from which about one hundred and fifty tons per month are despatched by rail. Betel leaf is also grown for the supply of distant markets to the extent of about six tons per month. The goods and passenger traffic at Mirigama testify to a very flourishing trade. Ambepussa (34m. 45c). — Ambepussa possesses the general characteristics of Mirigama, and these need not be again described ; but the area served by the railway station is not so large. The village from which it derives its name is four miles away upon the old highway to Kandy, whereas the station in reality is situated in the village of Keendeniya. Ambepussa was a place of importance in earlier times, and owns a rest-house more than usually capacious, built upon an eminence over- looking' charming country and possessing extensive grounds. It is, however, essential for the traveller to give notice of his intended arrival if he is likely to require provisions. The country here becomes more mountainous and the Maha-oya runs a wild and tortuous course. The climate is exceedingly hot. Good snipe shooting is to be had from November to February as well as hare, wild boar and deer. Alawwa (40m. 24c). — Alawwa is one of the least important of the main line stations. The scenery, however, becomes more varied in character as we pass through this district. The railway runs parallel to the Maha-oya, which affords oppor- tunities to the snap-shotter ; for there are many exquisite vistas between the clumps of bamboo that decorate the banks ; and with the present day rapid lenses and focal-plane-shutters photography from a moving train is not impossible, as some THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Si of the illustrations in this volume prove. Before the railway Main Line opened up this district to cultivation it was so malarious that it is said that every sleeper laid took its toll of a human life, so terrible was the death rate from the fever-laden miasma of some of the tracts of jungle-land that had to be penetrated. Polgahawela (45m. 34c). — Polgahawela is the junction Polgahawela station for the Northern line (and in the early future for India). 2 ^ Jce Passengers arc afforded ever)' facility for comfort. There is a refreshment room under the management of the Refreshment Car Company, where meals can be obtained. There is also a rest-house quite near the station with bedrooms. Light re- freshments can be obtained. The agriculture of the district is the same as described in connection with Mirigama, with the considerable addition of plantains, which are grown here ex- tensively for markets which arc brought into reach by the railway, about one hundred and fifty tons being despatched in the course of each month. This station serves the large and important district of Kcgalle, the distance to the town of Kegalle Kegalle being ten miles in a southerly direction, and to which there is a mail-coach service conveying European passengers for a fare of two rupees. The traveller who is intending to see all the most interesting and beautiful places in Ceylon should not omit Kegalle from his itinerary. It provides a pleasant excursion from Kandy either by motor car or by rail to Polgahawela and thence by coach. The situation of the town is lovely and the scenery by which it is encompassed is exquisite, while the antiquities scattered throughout the district are too numerous to mention here.'" One of the most interesting, however, is so near to Polgahawela, being only Antiqmtie two and a half miles distant on the coach road to Kegalle, that some reference to it must be made. This is an old Buddhist temple known as Wattarama, built in the third ccnturv and endowed with the lands and villages around it by King Gothabhaya. Its age is attested no less by ancient writings and traditions than by the interesting remains. Beside the ruins of the original edifice, consisting of large monolith pillars and various steps and door-frames, there is a group of buildings of various later dates composed partlv of ancient materials. About a mile from the railway station, at (lalbodagamakanda, may be seen twelve granite pillars, the only remains of a beautiful palace said to have been built by King Bhuwenake Bahu II., in A.n. 1319, lor his sixty-seven beautiful queens! A large number of Talipot Palms are to be seen between Talipot palms Polgahawela and Kandy ; and fortunate will the traveller be * The antiquarian who explores this District should provide himself with a copy of the " Report on the Kcgalle District " by the Archaeo- logical Commissioner ; obtainable at the Government Record Office, Colombo ; price, six rupees. 82 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Main Line who happens to pass through this district when a large number of them are in flower. The botanical world offers no more beautiful sight than this. The period when it may be enjoyed is, however, quite uncertain, as the flower bursts forth once only in the lifetime of the tree when it is approaching its hundredth year. It occasionally happens that scores of trees are in flower at one time, while at another not one may be seen. Rambukkana Rambukkana (52m. lie). — At Rambukkana the ascent into 2 9°/«' the Kandyan Mountains begins, and the landscape assumes an aspect of fascinating grandeur. If Ceylon presented no other spectacle of interest to the traveller it would still be worth his while to visit Kandy if only to see the panorama that unfolds itself as the train moves upward in its winding and intricate course on the scarped sides of the mountains overlooking the lovely Dekanda valley. An additional powerful engine is now attached to the rear of our train, and so sharp are the curves that it is frequently possible for the passenger seated in the train to see both engines ; or from his seat to take a photograph including in the landscape a Scenery oj the large portion of the train in which he is travelling. At /" ISS one moment, on the edge of a sheer precipice, we are gazing downwards some thousand feet below ; at another we are looking upwards at a mighty crag a thousand feet above ; from the curves by which we climb the mountain sides fresh views appear at every turn ; far-reaching valleys edged by the soft blue ranges of distant mountains and filled with luxuriant masses of dense forest, relieved here and there by the vivid green terraces of the rice fields ; cascades of lovely flowering creepers, hanging in festoons from tree to tree and from crag to crag ; above and below deep ravines and foaming waterfalls dashing their spray into mist as it falls into the verdurous abyss ; fresh mountain peaks appearing in ever- changing grouping as we gently wind along the steep gradients ; daring crossings from rock to rock, so startling as to unnerve the timid as we pass over gorges cleft in the mountain side and look upon the green depths below, so near the edge of the vertical precipice that a fall from the carriage would land us sheer sixteen hundred feet below ; the lofty Talipot is flourishing on either side ; the scattered huts and gardens, and the quaint people about them, so primitive in their habits which vary little from those of two thousand years ago — these are some of the features of interest as we journey into the Kandyan district. The precipitous mountain of Allagalla which we illustrate is the most conspicuous feature of the landscape. Our train creeps along upon its steep side of granite. The track is visible in our picture (Plate 103) like a belt passing 103. ALLAGALLA. THE STREAK OF FIRE. 104. THE DEKANDA VALLEY. PHOTOGRAPHED FROM THE TRAIN WHILE 105. SENSATION ROCK. Photo by Pldti & i THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 85 around the rock. The peak towers aloft 2,500 feet above us, Main Line while the beautiful valley lies a thousand feet below. On the far side of that peak lies Hataraliyadda, a warm but radiant valley, where primeval manners and customs are yet unin- fluenced by the march of western civilisation. Allagalla is always majestic, but most beautiful immediately Allagalla after excessive rainfall, when it is literally besprinkled with cataracts, some of which burst forth many hundreds of feet above the railway, and dash into the valleys some thousand feet below, increasing in volume and gathering enormous impetus as they pass under the line in deep fissures. The height of Allagalla is 3,394 feet. Tea grows upon its steep acclivities, and those who are occupied in its cultivation on these giddy heights are enviable spectators of the most varied and beautiful atmospheric scenes that are to be found in Ceylon. Unsettled weather is extremelv frequent and is productive of an endless variety of cloud and storm effects over the wonderful valley which undulates below until in the far distance it is backed by the rugged mountains opposed to Allagalla and which reach a greater height. At one time a vast sea of mists is rolling in fleecy clouds over the lowland acres and the summits of the hills are standing out from it like wooded islands ; at another every shape of the beautiful landscape is faultlessly defined and every colour is vivid beneath the tropical sun ; then an hour or two will pass and rolling masses of dense black vapours will approach the mountain while the sunbeams play on the distant hills ; now the sun becomes obscured, a streak of fire (Plate 103) flashes through the black mass and immediately the whole mountain seems shaken by the terrific peal of thunder. Then follows a downpour at the rate of a full inch an hour ; the cascades turn to roaring cataracts, the dry paths to rush- ing torrents and the rivulets to raging floods. The rice-fields suddenly become transformed into lakes and the appearance of the valleys suggests considerable devastation by water ; but it is not so : the torrent passes away almost as suddenly as it comes, and the somewhat bruised and battered vegetation freshens and bursts into new life as the heavy pall of purple cloud disperses and the gleams of the golden sun return to cheer its efforts. That tea or anything else should grow on these rocky slopes is one of the marvels of this wonderful land. Our attention will perhaps be mostlv attracted to the Dekanda Valley (Plate 104). The terraced rice-fields, the bcauti- Dekamla ful trees, plants and creepers upon the slopes beneath us, the distant mountains rising in tiers on all sides and o'erhung with vapours whose forms and contrasts of tone from the deepest black to the purest white are almost always present, the curious shapes displayed by the heights — all these contribute to make our slow progress seem all too rapid. 86 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY An ancient prophecy fulfilled We are now in the freshness of mountain air and have left behind us the steamy low-country, where the simmering heat, although the efficient cause of the beautiful features of the landscape, is nevertheless somewhat trying to our energies. For thirteen miles we have been slowly crawling round the moun- tain sides, ever moving upwards, till at length, through a narrow pass, we emerge upon one of the ledges of the mountain system. Here the brave Kandyans held their capital for centuries against all the attempts of Europeans to take it. There was an ancient prophecy current amongst them that whoever should pierce the rock and make a road into Kandy from the plains would receive the kingdom as his reward. The prophecy was at length fulfilled by the British, who made the road, pierced the rock and secured the safe and permanent possession of the prize. The scene of the exploit is now before us. 106. THE FULFILMENT OF A PROPHECY. From the train we may see the road and the pierced rock as illustrated by our plate. The eminence rising above this rock is known as Scouts' Hill from the circumstance that the Kandyans jealously guarded this gate to their kingdom with their forces always in readiness, should an enemy appear from the low-country. Each inhabitant was subject to sentinel duty and thousands were kept at posts overlooking the plains around, many even having to keep their watch on the tops of trees commanding extensive views of the whole country round, so that no person could get either in or out of the kingdom unobserved and without permission. Indeed, so jealous were the apprehensions of the Kandyan monarch when THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 87 the British appeared in Ceylon that a strict system of pass- Main Line ports from one district to another was adopted. A lofty column comes into view as a signal that we have The Damson arrived at the top of the pass. Both road and rail here con- """'""""' verge and make their entrance into the Kandyan country together, the road being most picturesque at its entrance to Kadugannawa. The monument is not, as is often supposed, in commemoration of the introduction of the railway, but a memorial to Captain Dawson of the Royal Engineers, who planned and superintended the construction of the road. It was erected by public subscription in 1832. Kadugannawa (65m.). — At Kadugannawa we are at once in Kadugannawa most interesting Kandyan country, its chief attractions to us i,6go/eet being the singular beauty of the road scenery and the historical temples in the district. Now that we have reached the region where both climate and opportunity combine in offering inducements to the tra- veller to visit the interesting wilu'tres, pansalas and dcwales which are so closely associated with Buddhist life and thought in Ceylon, it is fitting to pause for a moment for the definition of terms with which we must now become familiar. Wihdre literally and strictly means a temple of Buddha with wih&res an altar over which is placed an image of the Buddha. In general use, however, the term includes three or four buildings : the pansala, or abode of the priests; the dagaba, or dome- shaped monument, which usually enshrines some relic ; the bodhimaluwa, or platform and altar surrounding a sacred bo-tree, and the wihare or temple of the image. In large pansalas, accommodating a number of monks, there is usually a poya-ge or hall in which the monks recite their confessions. To some of the temples there is also attached a bana maduwa, or preaching hall, where the Buddhist scriptures are read and expounded. The history of the de-wale offers a striking example of the Dewdks adoption and absorption by a conquering religion of deities previously in possession of the field. As Rome took to herself many of the deities of the Hellenic world, and as even later religious systems are not altogether untinctured by those they have superseded, so the victorious Buddhism that invaded Ceylon in the early part of the third century B.C. felt the in- fluence of the Hindu gods worshipped by the earlier colonists and by the Tamils who came into the island at a later date. It was impossible, however, for the self-denying faith of Buddha to incorporate in its mild and humane cult repugnant features of the dethroned faith. The only course then was to substitute for their objectionable characteristics others more in conformity with the precepts of Gotama. In this way Vishnu, the second person of the Hindu trinity, becomes the tutelary deity of the 88 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Main Line island, while the third person, Siva, adopted under the name of Xata, is the Expected of the next Kalpa, the new Buddha who is to reign in succession to the present. Kataragam, the Hindu god of war, is honoured for the aid given by him to Rama, when the latter invaded Ceylon and defeated the demon- king Ravana in order to rescue Sita from captivity. To these three deities, and to Pattini, the goddess of chastity, the majority of the de-wales will be found to be dedicated. Cadaiadeniya Gadaladeniya is within easy reach of Kadugannawa. Two and a half miles distant, upon the main road to Kandy, at a place called Embilmigama, near the sixty-fifth mile stone from Colombo, a pathway on the south side leads to a typical temple village, three-quarters of a mile from the main road. Here on a small hill will be found one of the most interesting and pic- turesque imihdres in Ceylon, the Gadaladeniya. A considerable portion of the building is original and dates from a.d. 1344. A most pleasant excursion can be made to this temple by driving from Kandy, seven miles, or by rail to Kadugannawa, and thence by hackery, the cost of which is thirty cents a mile. Lanliatiiaki The most beautiful of all the Kandyan temples, the Lanka- tilake, may be reached by continuing the bridle path for about two and a half miles past Gadaladeniya. It is hoped that at an early date this bridle path will be converted into a cart road, when it will be possible to drive from Kandy to both these ancient temples. Lankatilake may also be reached from Kandy via Peradeniya Junction lour and a half miles, and thence by a minor road to Dawulagala, three and a half miles, after which a footpath must be taken for the last mile. Embekke dewdle is nearly a mile distant by bridle path from Dawulagala. Architecturally this temple is very interesting. Still another romantic and historical spot is to be reached by turning' off the main road at the same place, namely Embil- migama, about two and a half miles from Kadugannawa, and at the sixty-fifth mile stone from Colombo; but this time we take the minor road on the north side leading to Siyambala- goda (three miles), and from this village it is three-quarters of a mile walk to Dodanwala Maha dewule, a temple of great historical interest, and containing many relics of the battle between the Kandyans, under Rajah II., and the Portuguese. Kadugannawa is said to have been a health resort in earlier times, and with its salubrious air, its good supply of pure spring water, the grandeur of its scenery and its proximity to interesting places it is still deserving of the attention of Kand- yans as a charming suburb. (Sr *3™ - ! ■W '"' lT JbmbIae* . ^r* m. A < *1 m -s» • e^B . t ^5j,.J ESS™ s^^-. ■ i.M*ilTili ^"y |M l l~|' ? 3 107. LANKATILAKE TEMPLE. WBMMJfe'4-' i AjltgffWfrf- ^IfiM ■'- -■:>. «.«£ ^Nb^£W9I .i |%#:\> Y : > ■:■ '■■M:, '■ ^SliSliiSj 108. DODANWALA DEWALE. ^ ?tBlM ENTS7V, r/0/y ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, PERADENIYA. Junction 157? feet THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 91 Peradeniya Junction (70m. 46c). — Here the fast trains of Peradeniya the main line are divided ; the Kandy and Matale portion pro- ceeding northwards, and the Bandarawela part to the south with the passengers for Nuwara Eliya and the Uva country. Proceeding in the Kandy train we next come to Peradeniya New (70m. 86c). — Peradeniya New is the Peradeniya station for the Royal Botanic Gardens of Peradeniya, world- Boianic famed for their usefulness and their beauty. Here, in a situa- Gardens tion perfectly ideal from whatever point of view it is regarded, is a marvellous collection of living specimens of the flora of the whole tropical world, as well as the great herbarium and museum of Ceylon plants. The term Royal Botanic Gardens, however, stands for something vastly more important than the great show-place of floral wonders which has gained their wide repute. From their inception a century ago they have been organised to foster and assist agricultural enterprise ; but in recent years the scope of their usefulness in this direction has been so widened and developed that the title now indicates a government department of botany and agriculture presided over by a director and staff of scientific specialists in botany, chemistry, mycology and entomology, under whose direction all agricultural possibilities are put to the test and experimental culture carried on in various parts of the country. Thus not only are all useful and ornamental trees and plants of other countries introduced into the colony, but technical and scientific advice and instruction are given as to every condition that makes for success in culture, in the treatment and prevention of diseases of plant life and the destruction and prevention of insect pests. In no country is more assistance for agriculturists provided by the Government, whose attitude to the native is truly paternal ; for it supplies him with seeds, advice and in- struction, free of cost ; it cares for his prosperity ; finds out what it is desirable for him to grow and experiments upon the product for him ; advises him upon every point, and periodically inquires how he is getting on. The gardens are situated within a loop made by the Mahaweliganga, which forms a peninsula of about a mile in length with a minimum breadth of six hundred yards. The enclosure covers one hundred and fifty acres, and the elevation above sea-level is 1,600 feet. The general configuration will be seen by a glance at our plan. The facilities for inspecting the plants could scarcely be improved upon, and although the greatest enjoyment will generally fall to the pedestrian, the roads over which driving is permissible afford good opportuni- ties for those who like to take their pleasures lazily. The task of exploring the gardens will prove easy enough with the help of our plan, and the directing boards that are 92 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Peradeniya erected at the entrance to the various drives and walks. The Gardens botanist will find the principal plants and trees labelled. The red Upon approaching' the main entrance there will be noticed cotton tree quite near the rest-house the fine specimen of the red cotton- tree (Bombax malabaricurn). This is the tree known locally as Katu-imbul, and is one of the few trees in Ceylon that are deciduous. Its most attractive period is January or February, when it presents a gorgeous spectacle, due to its being literally covered with large fleshy flowers of bright scarlet hue, which it showers in profusion upon the green sward, thus providing for itself the rich setting of a carpet of blossoms. Assam On the left of the entrance to the gardens we arc now "•'"''"■'" attracted by a grove of Assam rubber trees {Fiats elastica). The little plant with its bright green oval leaves, which in England we are accustomed to see in sitting-rooms and con- servatories, grows in its native land to an enormous size, and throws out horizontal boughs to an extent of more than fifty feet. It is most remarkable, however, for its snake-like roots, ■which extend from the base of the trunk to a distance greater than the height of the tree. We now pass into the stately enclosure where the botanic splendour in which Ceylon is so richly clothed from shore to The entrance shore reaches its supreme display. On either side of the en- trance is a tall African palm (Ehicis guineensis), the seeds of which yield the palm oil of commerce The pillars of the gates arc apparelled with a graceful creeper from Brazil (Bignonia unguis), which flowers in April. Magnificent Immediately opposite the gates we are arrested in amaze- groitpof ment at the sight of a magnificent group of palms. An example of each kind indigenous to the island, together witli many noble specimens of foreign lands, appears in the stately assemblage, wreathed in flowering creepers and surrounded with sprays of elegant ferns. The Talipot Avenue, near the river on the left, and easily found by reference to our plan, is one of the most striking features we shall meet with, its shades of colour in green and gold affording delight to the artistic eye. All European ideas of a garden must be discarded if we wish to realise the general features of Peradeniya. There is an entire absence of formal arrangement, but the beautiful undulation of the land produces a grand effect — a garden and park combined, under conditions the most favourable for both. "Here Nature asserts herself almost uncontrolled; she gives us grandeur of form, wealth of foliage, exuberance of growth, and splendour of colour — unfading beauties but of a quite different kind from those of the sweet summer flower-gardens or the well-kept stoves and greenhouses of England." Of 109. ASSAM RUBBER TREE. 110. THE TALIPOT AVENUE. 111. RIVER VIEW, EASTERN DRIVE. 112. THE PAPAW. 113. BRIDOE VIEW. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 95 course the primary object of the garden is scientific instruction, but the picturesque must have been kept well in view in plant- ing the groups of trees and arranging the various families of plants. If we turn to the left along Lake Road we shall notice many lofty and ornamental trees; amongst them the Amherstia nobilis, from Burma, while many are completely shrouded in flowering creepers, which trail in graceful forms from great heights. The Thunbergia, with its lovely bell-shaped blossoms, creeps in masses over the fine old tree trunks which it clothes in the same bountiful manner. Near this spot are to be seen gamboge trees and some curious African trees with long pendulous fruits. The Brazil nut tree (Bertholetia excelsa) is also in evidence here. Continuing in the same direction we soon arrive at the amateur photographer's paradise, the most photographed spot in the garden. Here is a charming pool, and round about it a multitude of singularly beautiful foliage subjects that can be combined with its glistening waters. As we approach the corner at the extreme south of the gardens, the noticeable features are varieties of succulent plants, the graceful papaw (Carica papaya) laden with its enor- mous fruits suspended beneath a crown of beautifully shaped leaves. The papaw (Plate 112) is frequently spoken of as the poor man's fruit from the fact of its fertility, its many useful properties and its general distribution, for it is seen in every poor man's garden. In appearance it resembles a green melon and has an orange-yellow flesh of sweet and pleasant flavour. Papain, from which it derives its digestive properties, is said to be superior to the animal product known as pepsin. The stem of the tree has a pretty pattern of diamond shape and fre- quently grows to a height of fifteen to twenty feet. Many young palms of exceedingly beautiful foliage will also be admired here, within the loop formed by the drive. Aloes, agaves and screw pines (Pandanus) abound. The screw pine, with its scarlet fruits, tempting only to monkeys, its glossy sword-like leaves, its forked cylindrical stem so beautifully chased, and its strange stilt-like roots, presents a fantastic appearance. We retrace our way through the Talipot Avenue, and pass the pond where a beautiful road and river view is the next to claim our admiration. The high banks of the river are in many parts clothed with climbing shrubs between the enormous thickets of bamboo, which wave their plumes over river and path. Having now explored the south-west corner we return to the oval group of palms near the entrance, and entering the Main Central Drive illustrated by plate 115 we find ourselves at once in a grove of exquisite beauty, its charming features being Talipot Avenue 96 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY due to the careful planting of the shrubs and trees, which form a bank of ornamental and flowering plants rising gradually from the edge to the tall trees which constitute the background and overhanging canopy. The first turn on the left is Monu- ment Road, where we shall find the famous kauri pine of New Zealand, the curious candle tree with its pendulous fruits which resemble so many candles hanging by their wicks from the branches; and the most interesting double coconut palm (Lodoicea sechellamm). The Great Lawn will be noticed from the Monument Road, along the edge of which are fine trees, too numerous to mention here in detail. We return to the Main Central Drive, cross over it, and stroll down the Liana Drive, where we shall see the Ceylon satinwood tree (Chloroxylon swietenia), and an abundance of lianas hanging in festoons. These climbing- palms provide the cane used in furniture-making and matting. They grow to enormous lengths, sometimes hundreds of feet. Our next step is to make for a scene which to many is the most fascinating and longest remembered of all in the gardens — the Fernery. This, as our map will show, is to the right a little farther along the Main Central Drive, and is provided with a network of paths about which the visitor will wander in a maze of delight. Beneath the shade of lofty trees rivulets flow between banks carpeted with ferns of infinite variety, some so minute as to be hardly distinguishable from delicate moss, others robust and tree-like, and some even bearing fine tufts of feathery leaves as large as stately palms. Beautiful parasites rover the trunks of the protecting trees. It is always a veritable fairy scene. Near the Fernery is the Flower Garden (Plate 117). At the south end will be found a circular tank containing many inter- esting aquatic plants, including the plants from which Panama hats are made (Carludovica palmata), water poppies, the sacred lotus, Egyptian papyrus, the water hyacinth and others. Near the tank arc two fine rubber trees of the same species as the grove near the entrance (Ficus clastica). If we pass beneath the archway formed by the peculiar snake-like climber {Bnuhinia cwguinu), which we shall not fail to notice near the tank, the path will lead us to a shady walk amidst all manner of spice trees, especially nutmegs, cinnamon, allspice and cloves. In the Flower Garden there are shade houses for orchids and other shade-loving plants. To the north-east of the Flower Garden, as may be easily seen in our map, is the Palmyra Avenue (Borassus flabelliformis). Beyond the Palmyra Avenue is the Rose Garden, which should not be missed; and to the 114. THE LAKE: PERADENIYA GARDENS. MAIN CENTRAL DRIVE. BAMBOO CLUMP : WESTERN DRIVE. 117. THE FLOWER GARDEN. i'iNG FOXES N FLOWER. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 99 right of the avenue is a stretch of land devoted to tropical Peradeniya vegetables, including gourds, yams, sweet potatoes, tapioca, Qardens arrowroot, pineapples and man)' others. In the Bat Drive may generally be seen hundreds of so- Flying faxes called flying foxes hanging head downward like legs of mutton from the topmost branches of lofty trees. These curious bird- beasts (Pteropus edwardsii) are fruit eaters, and particularly fond of the seeds of the banyan tree (Ficus Indica). By day they sleep suspended as seen in our picture, and at night unhook their claws, and spreading their heavy wings, they fly around the trees in large numbers, making no little noise in their foraging exercises. A drive around the gardens by the river side is especially pleasant and affords many lovely views. At the north end there is a portion of ground allotted to nature herself, where in the jungle self-sown plants compete for the mastery in earth and air. The Museum situated near the Great Circle commands The .Museum beautiful views and is full of objects of great interest. Here will be found specimens of the many valuable timbers of Ceylon. Entymology is represented, and the specimens include the Entomology greatest wonders of the insect world, many of them so closely allied to the vegetable kingdom that only on close examination can the question be determined as to whether we are looking at an object having a sentient being, or a mere bundle of leaves or sticks. Volumes might be written about these Roval Botanic Gardens at Peradeniya ; but it is beyond the scope of the present work to give more than a general idea of them. Thev contain the most lavish display of tropical flora that has ever been brought together, and the practical benefit of such an establishment, with its large staff of accomplished experts, will be manifest to every visitor. Kaxdy (74m. 36c.). — By the most experienced travellers Kandy Kandy is usually awarded the high distinction of being the 1602 y;,/ most picturesque spot of the British Empire. The formation Formation of the town itself may be described as a basin in the hills, the 0J ' tke ' 07v ' 1 bottom being occupied in one part by native quarters, temples and pansalas, and the rest by a picturesque lake, around which many miles of carriage drives, bridle roads and walks, at various elevations line the hill-sides, which are studded with pretty bungalows. A reference to our illustrations will give some idea of the way in which this beautiful little town clusters around the lake, amid all the wealth of foliage peculiar both to mountain and plain, which here meet and intermingle. Kandy is incomparably beautiful; but let it be at once Scenery understood that in thus describing it we are not limiting the epithet to the town and its immediate surroundings. It is history ioo THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Kandy rather the Kandyan country as a whole that is thus distin- guished, and this must be seen from the hill-tops which com- mand the far-reaching valleys where the Mahaweliganga rolls over rocky channels and through scenes of almost majestic beauty ; from the Hunasgcria peak ; from Mattanapatana ; from Lady Horton's Walk and other steep acclivities that encircle the town itself. Travellers too frequently, either from want of time or lack of energy, obtain but a faint idea of the varied beauty of the Kandyan district. Kandyan Our interest ill the Kandy of to-day will be strengthened by some knowledge of the previous records of the Kandyans and their little city. It has no very ancient history. It was for the first time adopted as the capital in the year 1592 by Wimala Dharma, the one hundred and sixty-fourth monarch who had reigned in Ceylon since the year B.C. 543, the earliest period of which any events are recorded. For more than a thousand years Anuradhapura was the capital, and the residence of the kings, till in a.d. 729 this once mighty city, the stupendous ruins of which we shall describe later, was forsaken, and hence- forth for some five hundred years Polonnaruwa became the capital. With the downfall of Polonnaruwa, consequent upon Malabar invasion, the prestige of the Sinhalese monarchy dwindled. From the year 1235 various places were selected for the capital, including Dambadeniya, Kurunegala, Gampola, Cotta and Sitawaka, until the final adoption of Kandy, which continued to be a place of royal residence until the reign of the last monarch, Sri Wikrama Rajah Sinha, 1798-1815. From the time of the first contact with Europeans, which took place in the early part of the sixteenth century, Kandy was for three hundred years the chosen ground where the Sinhalese made their stand against the aggressions of European stmagics intruders. The Portuguese first carried on a desultory struggle with the Kandyans for one hundred and fifty years, during which time they repeatedly gained possession of, and in great part destroyed, the city, but never succeeded in holding it to their own advantage, or for any considerable length of time. With the arrival of the Dutch in the middle of the seven- teenth century a policy which involved less fighting was adopted, but the attitude of proud defiance on the part of the mountaineers was not one whit changed in consequence. From the very beginning the Dutch recognised the futility of trying to gain and hold possession of the Kandyan kingdom. It remained for the British to accomplish the task ; nor was the British Jt by anv means an easy one for them. For twenty years after their first arrival in the year 1795, Kandy remained unsubdued. At length Kandy was in possession of the British. The King was captured at Medamahanuwara, deposed and deported to the fortress of Vellore in India, and at a convention of the with the I'ortjte/rcs At rival of MAP OF THE TOWN OF KANDY. Scale of Yards. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 103 chiefs held in the great Audience Hall of the palace his Kandy dominions were transferred to the British Crown. Good government speedily brought about contentment and hO^t °J the rapid advancement of civilisation. And recrudescence of the roads wars, which had lasted lor three hundred years, was guarded against by the construction of good military roads. It seems to us somewhat strange that no attempt was ever made by the Portuguese or Dutch during their three centuries of warfare with the Kandyans to compass their end by means ol roads. Roman history had afforded many notable examples of this mode of conquest from which they might have profited. The new roads of the British soon broke down the exclusive habits of the inland population, and the march of progress has been continued without interruption to this day. Freedom and the benefits that follow in its train have now Peace and become familiar to the Kandvan mind, and peace, prosperity c '"■•"'■" and contentment are now enjoyed by a people for centuries accustomed to serfdom, poverty and the excesses of unscru- pulous tyrants. Before we proceed to describe Kandy as it will be found by Hotel accom- the traveller to-day it may be useful to remark that during "Kandy"' the months of October to April it is always advisable for in- tending visitors to book hotel rooms in advance, ft frequently happens that several large steamships arrive at Colombo together, and a rush for Kandy is made by a large number of their passengers, who fill the hotels to their utmost capacity. It is safer therefore to telegraph for accommodation, unless it has been ascertained in Colombo that this course is unneces- sary. The local hostelries comprise the Queen's Hotel, which is a large and well-equipped institution, in a most convenient situation; the Florence Hotel, quiet, comfortable and home- like in picturesque grounds upon the lake road ; the Firs Hotel, and other smaller hotels and boarding houses. The population of Kandv is about 25,000, of whom only Population about one hundred are English. The form of local govern- andana ment is a municipal council of which the Government Agent is the chairman, and the area embraced by the municipality is about eleven square miles. The streets as well as the hotels and the principal bungalows are lighted by electricity. The exploration of the interesting features of the town may be easily and pleasantly done on foot, with the occasional use of a jinrickshaw. This useful little man carriage is obtain- able as easily as in Colombo, and the 'rickshaw cooly is under similar municipal regulations. He can be engaged bv the hour for a trifling sum. The jinrickshaw is especially useful if taken out on little expeditions and left bv the roadside during the exploration of places that are accessible only by pathways. Horse carriages can be obtained at the hotels. laiii i scape Local attractions 104 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Kandy As we ascend the steep acclivities the beauty of the land- 7 - scape approaches the sublime; we gaze across far-reaching valleys where the Mahaweliganga rolls over channels strewn with massive rocks, and through scenes of almost majestic beauty ; we see the Hunasgeria peak towering above vast stretches of vivid greenery where cacao groves are interspersed with masses of lofty palms, with here and there patches of the most lovely colour of all vegetation — the emerald hue of half- ripe paddy ; the grandeur of the Matale hills and the whole sur- rounding country which, when viewed from the heights that embrace the town, is a panorama of surpassing loveliness. Not the least charming feature of Kandy is the surprising mildness of the climate. Its height above the sea is scarcelv two thousand feet, and its distance from the equator is but six degrees ; yet a blanket at night is welcome and comfortable ; whereas in Colombo it is never required. The days are hot and somewhat glaring, owing to the lack of that red tint in the roads which is so comforting in Colombo ; but the refresh- ing early mornings and evenings admit of a goodly amount of exercise. The cosmopolitan character of the visitors will be at once apparent ; for not a week passes without the arrival of scores of fresh tourists from every part of the world. They come here to see the home of the later Sinhalese kings ; the famous and beautiful mountain-stronghold that was the last part of Ceylon to fall into the hands of the foreigner ; the Dalada Maligawa, or Temple of the Sacred Tooth of Buddha ; the quaint manners and customs of a people whose ancient dynasty endured for twenty-four centuries ; the interesting temples and religious ceremonies of the Buddhist cult ; the perfection of tropical botany and agriculture ; and the most beautiful walks and drives in the tropics. Two roads encircle the lake — the lower at the water's edge and the upper at a high elevation on the hill-sides. We choose the latter, and no sooner have we ascended to a moderate height, than a series of beautiful landscapes is presented to us through openings in the shrubs and trees which border the road. As we wind about the varied curves, the ever-changing aspect of the town and surrounding country presents a con- stant difference of outline and colour which is most enchanting. Lady _ By far the most interesting walk or drive in Kandy is that known as Lady Horton's, from which a distant view of the road just described can be obtained. Here we take our stand for a few moments and gaze across the lake at the tea estates upon the opposing slopes. There we notice a rugged cliff rising to the height of 4,119 feet. This is the highest point of the Kandy tea-growing district known as Hantanne. Morton Walk THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 105 The uncultivated hill on the left of Hantanne is a point of Kandy vantage from which magnificent stretches of country may be Hantanne seen. It is commonly known as " Mutton Button," a corrup- tion of its correct name " Mattanapatana. " The ascent of this hill, which is about 3,200 feet high, is a somewhat arduous task, and occupies from two to three hours ; but our exertions are well rewarded by the splendid views which it commands. In winding course we continue to ascend until, at the north- Dumiara eastern point, the valley of Dumbara bursts into view. In spite of the clearings made for cultivation, it is still beautifully wooded. The lovely jungle is, however, fast giving way to the less beautiful but more remunerative tea and coco planta- tions. This district is about 12,000 acres in extent, about 7,000 of which are now under cultivation. The elevation, which is from 700 to 1,200 feet above sea-level, is found to be most suitable for the cultivation of a large variety of products, especially when, as is the case with Dumbara, the rainfall is moderate and well distributed, being about sixty inches in the year. We see, therefore, in Dumbara, fields of cacao or chocolate trees with large rubber trees planted amongst them for shade. Some estates consist of fields of pepper, areca nuts, coconuts, cacao and coffee, while here and there are fields of tea bushes interspersed with coconuts. Vanilla and carda- moms are also represented. The district is, however, chiefly noted for its cacao or chocolate, of which it has upwards of five thousand acres. Beyond the Dumbara valley we notice in the far distance the outline of a noble mountain which is known as the Knuckles. The top of this mountain is shaped by four distinct peaks resembling the knuckles of the hand, from which it derives its name. It is an important district under cultivation for tea, cinchona, cardamoms, and other products. We have mentioned Lady Horton's Walk before describing the town itself, because the traveller is recommended to take the earliest opportunity of seeing the panorama of the Kan- dyan country spread out before him from these heights. The entrance to the walk will be found in King Street near the gates of the King's Pavilion. The length of the walk is about three miles. One of the chief objects of interest to all travellers, and The Temfie generally the first visited, is the Dalada Maligawa or Temple of the Tooth. The Temple and the Pattirippuwa, which is the name of the octagonal building on the right of the main entrance, are enclosed by a very ornamental stone wall and a moat. The Temple itself is concealed by the other buildings within the enclosure. Upon entering we pass through a small quadrangle of the Tooth 121. THE TEMPLE OF THE TOOTH. 122. KANDYAN CHIEFS. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 107 and turn to the right up a flight of stone steps to the Temple. Kandy The most noticeable features are grotesque carvings, highly- coloured frescoes, representing - torments in store lor various classes of sinners, and images of Buddha. A most ear-splitting- noise is kept up by tom-tom beating and the playing of various native instruments. On either side are flower-sellers, and the atmosphere is heavy with the perfume of lovely white blossoms. Each worshipper in the Temple brings an offering of some fragrant ilower. The beautiful Plumiera, with its pure creamy petals and yellow heart, is the most popular sacrificial blossom, and this, together with jasmine and oleander, is everywhere strewn by the devout Sinhalese. If our visit happens to be made on a day of high festival when the adored relic is to be exposed, the scene will be enlivened by the presence of a large number of yellow-robed priests, gaily-caparisoned elephants, which are kept by the chiefs for ceremonial purposes, and the chiefs themselves, who appear in their rich white and gold dresses and jewel-bedig'ht hats. They are naturally handsome men, and when attired in full court dress, they look very im- posing. To begin with, they contrive to wind about their persons some hundred and fifty yards of fine silk or muslin, embroidered in gold. This drapery, tapered finely down to the ankles, ends in neat little frills. Round the waist is fastened a yelvet gold-embroidered belt. Over a shirt, fastened with magnificent jewelled studs, they wear a jacket with very full sleeves, fastened tight above the elbow, and made of brocaded silks of brightest hue. Their hats are of very curious shape, even more lavishly embroidered than the jackets, and studded with jewels. Crowds of reverent worshippers of both sexes, apparelled in costumes of brilliant colours and great variety, assemble in the spacious precincts. We notice a narrow doorway with two pairs of elephants' tusks on either side, and some very curious metal work on the door itself; this leads to a steep narrow staircase, at the end of which is a door most elaborately inlaid with silver and ivory; this is the entrance to the little sanctuary which con- tains the jealously-guarded sacred tooth, the palladium of Ceylon, and an object of unbounded reverence to four hundred millions of people. Within this chamber, in dim religious light, is a solid silver table, behind which the huge silver-gilt Dagoba, or bell-shaped shrine, with six inner shrines protecting the tooth, is usually visible through thick metal bars. But on great occasions the nest of priceless shrines is brought forward, and the tooth is displayed, upheld by a twist of golden wire, from the heart of the large golden lotus blossom. The shrines are all of pure gold, ornamented with magnificent rubies, pearls, emeralds, and catseyes, and the last two are quite Library The A udienc Hall 108 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Kandy covered with rubies. Besides these treasures, there arc here many priceless offerings and gifts of kings, including an image of Buddha carved out of one great emerald, about three inches long by two deep. The Oriental We are glad soon to retreat from this small chamber, so hot, and filled with almost overpowering perfume of the Plumiera blossoms, and to visit the Oriental Library in the Octagon. In the balcony we pause awhile and look around upon the motley crowd below. The chief priest with great courtesy now shows us a very rare and valuable collection of manuscripts of great antiquity. Most of them are in Pali and Sanskrit characters, not written but pricked with a stylus on narrow strips of palm leaf about three inches wide and sixteen or twenty inches long. These strips form the leaves of the books, and are strung together between two boards which form the covers. Many of the covers are elaborately decorated with embossed metal, and some are even set with jewels. Besides the sacred and historical writings, there are works on astro- nomy, mathematics and other subjects. The Audience Hall is in grounds adjoining those of the Temple of the Tooth. It is an historic building, and should be visited alike for its association with the ceremonial of the Kandyan kings and for the sake of its architecture. In the terrible times that preceded the British occupation it is to be feared that it was too often a court of tyranny and injustice ; but it now serves as the forum presided over by the District Judge of Kandy. Behind the Audience Hall is the Kandy Kachcheri, or offices of the Government Agent of the province, an extensive and handsome building, but, alas ! having no feature of any kind that harmonises with its surroundings. In the same locality is an old building, said to have been a portion of the palace of the queens in the days of the monarchy, but now used as a museum for treasures of Kan- dyan art and craftsmanship ; it is, moreover, the home of the Kandyan Art Association, a society formed to encourage the preservation of the best traditions of Sinhalese art, which, previous to the introduction of Western influence, possessed a character that was at once meritorious and distinctive. The native cunning of the low-country craftsman may be said to have diminished to a greater extent than that of the Kandyan, who, owing to his being so completely shut out from the rest of the world down to the nineteenth century, was limited to the resources of his own immediate locality and to the craftsman- ship that had descended from father to son for many genera- tions. The result of this isolation is seen in some special peculiarity that characterises all the ancient handiwork that The Kachcht 124. CRAFTSMEN OF THE KANDYAN ART ASSOCIATION. 125. BUDDHIST ALTAR AT ASGIRIYA TEMPLE KANDY. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY m may be met with, whether in architecture, painting, textile Kandy work, implements of ordinary use, or articles ol personal adornment. Skill developed among social conditions ol service tenure. Under this tenure the craftsman held lands that «%%~f sufficed to provide him with food, and prosecuted his art according to the laws of his caste, for its own sake and not for monev. His personal needs were so modest and few that his thoughts and his attention were never distracted by anxiety for the morrow. The main principles of his art came down as the legacy of a long line of ancestors who had been engaged in its mysteries, and "he applied his skill, both hereditary and acquired, to the needs and the fancies of his patrons, and, like the masters of the Middle Ages, found in every detail of his work such pleasure and delight that even the meanest objects were transfigured into things of beauty. The traveller may see the truth of this in every antique survival of earlier times. But the Kandyan craftsman is even now an artist, and although he is no longer uninfluenced by the foreigner, the instinct to follow the traditional lines is the strongest element in him. Part of the old Queen's Palace adjoining the Museum is ffif™'™// given up to workshops where the traveller may sec articles Association of silver and brass-work in process of manufacture, may even select a design for any article he fancies and sec it in its stages of fabrication if he has time to pa}- an occasional visit. Our illustration (Plate 124) depicts some of the Kandyan art workers following their calling in the premises of the museum. Their modest and simple methods will surprise and interest us. Seated upon the ground and surrounded by the needful appli- ances, the roughly constructed blow-pipe, the earthenware chattie containing a small charcoal fire and the box of self-made tools, thev fashion the most delicate work. Many a treasure representing the inherited artistic temperament of the Kan- dvan craftsman has been secured by the traveller from the institution in recent vears, and we recommend the collector to avail himself of the present opportunity, as no man can say how long the features which distinguish the inherited genius of the Kandyan artist may hold their own against the mechanical influences that have alreadv corrupted Western handicrafts. In the vicinity of the buildings referred to above is the T/uoia old palace of the Kandyan kings, or at any rate a considerable /laacl portion of it, now occupied bv the Government Agent of the Central Province as a private residence. Opposite the Old Palace is a walled enclosure of temple buildings containing the Xata Dewale, a dagaba, a bo tree provided with a bodhi-malmva or platform with an altar for offerings, and several halls for educational purposes. The principal entrance to this sacred enclosure provides the artist ii2 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Kandy with an excellent subject. Opposite this is the JMaha or Vishnu r/u King's Dewale. This temple is on the borders of the King's Pavilion grounds, which are entered from King Street. The King's Pavilion is the most charming of the residences of the Governor of the Colony, and there is nothing prettier in Kandy than the garden in which it stands. When his Excellency is not in residence the public are admitted to the grounds. Noble trees and ornamental plants abound everywhere and wild nature is still found compatible with effective artificial arrangement. Fine specimens of the Traveller's Tree are very noticeable here. This tree is so called from the useful property possessed by the leaves of sending forth a copious supply of water, when pierced at the part where they burst forth from the stem. Nor are the trees and shrubs the only features of interest in this delightful garden ; the creatures that appear everywhere lend their aid to charm the naturalist : geckoes, bloodsuckers, chameleons, lovely bright green lizards, about a foot in length, which, if interfered with, turn quite yellow in body, while the head becomes bright red ; glorious large butter- flies, with most lustrous wings; blue, green, and scarlet dragon-flies of immense size; and gay birds, giving life and colour to the scene. Millepedes are amongst the creatures constantly crawling about; they are about a foot long, as thick as one's thumb, of a very glossy jet black colour, and possessed of a large number of bright yellow legs. The strangest insects, too, are seen amongst the shrubs, so near akin to plant life that it is impossible to believe them to be alive until they are seen to move. Church of Opposite the entrance to the King's Pavilion is the English St. Paul Church of St. Paul, which was built about the middle of the nineteenth century. There are some features of interest in the interior, the woodwork particularly testifying to the skill of the Sinhalese in carving. At the west end there is a monu- ment to officers of the Ceylon Rifle Regiment who served in the Crimean War, and in the south transept there is a window erected by the Cevlon Mounted Infantry in memory of their comrades who fell in South Africa. Next to St. Paul's Church, upon turning the corner which leads to the Queen's Hotel, is the Police Court, which may afford some interest to the visitor who has never before wit- nessed the proceedings in an Eastern court of justice. Near the entrance will be noticed a fountain erected by the planters of Cevlon to commemorate the visit of his Majesty King Edward VII. in 1875. ... , . The Victoria Esplanade, with its charming and useful lawn Victoria 1 ' o Esplanade that stretches from the Queen s Hotel to the Temple, is the rendezvous of the public on all occasions of festivity. It is adorned on one side by a picturesque wall after the character 126-129. KANDYAN SCENERY AT THE RESERVOIR, Wace Park 114 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Kandy of that which surrounds the Temple, and on the other by the handsome wall of the grounds known as the Temple En- closure. On the lawn will be noticed a monument to the members of the Ceylon Planters' Rifle Corps who fell in the South African War; and another commemorating Sir Henry Ward, one of Ceylon's ablest Governors. For a short walk or drive few places provide a more interesting and beautiful road than that which encircles the Kandy Lake. The formation of this exceedingly ornamental piece of water is attributed to Wickrama Rajasinha, the last of the Kandyan kings. Some of its greatest aesthetic attrac- tions over and above its lovely situation are however due to the interest taken in the improvements of Kandy by many of the Governors and Government Agents who have lived there from time to time. Thus Sir William Gregory added the ornamental wall upon the bund. The upper road affords the best views, amongst which is that depicted by our photo- graph (Plate 120), taken from Wace Park, a small ledge on the hill-side tastefully laid out at the suggestion of the late Mr. Wace when he was resident as Government Agent. No visitor should fail to take a stroll to this spot, about five minutes' walk from the Queen's Hotel; and those who want specially pretty subjects for the camera should obtain a pass from the Secretary of the Municipal Council, or from the Queen's Hotel, to be admitted to the grounds which enclose the Reservoir of the Municipal Water Supply. This reservoir is reached by the road which passes at the back of Wace Park, the distance being half a mile. The lovelv shaded walks around the reservoir, with constant pretty- openings disclosing vistas across the glistening waters, pre- sent an opportunity to the enthusiastic amateur photographer that should not be missed. Some proof of this may be gathered from plates 126 to 129. Gregory The Gregory Road, which is the upper of the two lake roads, provides many beautiful views, and is most convenient for a short walk or drive in the early morning when the mountain air is keen and invigorating. Indeed, the first stroll along this road is one of very slow progress, and as a rule the fresh comer will not go far the first time, but return again and again at his leisure. The streets of Kandy will interest the visitor only in so far as they afford a glimpse of native town life and occupation in the bazaars ; this is, however, always amusing to the visitor who is a stranger to Eastern customs. In Kandy it is much pleasanter to visit the bazaars than in Colombo, owing to the cooler atmosphere and the wider and cleaner streets ; indeed one may walk through them in comfort. Trincomalee Street and Colombo Street should at any rate be visited. Near -rx,:r: Road THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 115 the bottom of King Street may be seen the only remnant of Kandy a Kandyan chief's walawwa or residence that has survived from the time of the Kandyan kings. Ward Street is the chief thoroughfare of Kandy and pos- sesses the European stores, banks, the Queen's Hotel, the Kandy Club and the Victoria Commemoration buildings which are occupied as the headquarters of the Planters' Association of Ceylon. This edifice was erected by the Planters of Ceylon as their memorial of the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria. Turning to the left at the bottom of Ward Street the road becomes very picturesque, and on the way to the railway station the market is seen fronted by a handsome garden of palms, the most prominent of which is the talipot. Upon near- ing the railway station an extensive building will be noticed on the right, amidst flowering shrubs and noble trees — the Post Office. This part of Kandy is known as the Vale of Bogambra, the scene of many a tragedy in the time of the Kandyan monarchy, including the tyrannous and ghastly execution of the Ehclapola family described in most works on Ceylon. ROAD SCENE THE BOTTOM OF WARD STREET. CHAPTER VI THE MATALE LINE Mahaiyawa Katugastota 1,534 a" 1 Wattegama l,62o/«* In the railway system the Matale line begins at Peradeniya Junction, Kandy being served by it. The distances of the stations given in the following itinerary are therefore reckoned from Peradeniya Junction. Mahaiyawa (4m. 71c). — This station as will be seen from our map is practically in Kandy itself, being only one mile from Kandy station. Katugastota (7m. 25c). — Katugastota (three and a half miles north of Kandy) is a picturesque and flourishing suburb of Kandy situated on the Mahaweliganga at the point where the Matale carriage road crosses it by an iron bridge. It is much frequented by visitors who have no time to make more distant excursions. One of the attractions consists of a con- siderable stud of elephants belonging to the Kandyan chief Dunuwilla whose walawwa is on the bank of the river. They frequently engage in river sports under the direction of their keepers to the amusement and delight of passengers who pay a flying visit to the mountain capital. Wattegama (11m. 33c.). — Wattegama is famous for its flourishing cacao and tea estates which contribute considerable freight to the railway. The village is provided with a rest- house containing four bedrooms ; and it is generally possible to hire a carriage and pair of horses at the rate of one rupee per mile. Hackeries are always available. 116 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 117 Near the station a road connects Wattegama with the Panwila road. It is the station for the districts of Panwila, Hunasgiriya, Madulkele, Kelebokka and Knuckles. Ukuwella (17m. 52c). — Ukuwella is a small village about three miles to the south of Matale. The railway station that takes its name from the village serves a large number of important estates. Matale (21m. 9c). — Matale is the terminus of this branch of the broad gauge railway. It is a place of considerable importance as the chief town of a large planting district con- taining nearly a thousand square miles, the most northerly in which Europeans have opened up estates ; it is under an Assistant Government Agent, and is divided into three sub- divisions, Mdtale South, East and North, each under a Rate- mahatmaya. Upon arrival we find a comfortable rest-house fitted with every convenience for the traveller and well provisioned. The town contains one of the largest purely native bazaars in Ceylon, extending for almost a mile in one long street shaded by a fine avenue of rain trees, so called from the circumstance that at night the leaves fold into a kind of sac in which the moisture condenses and at sunrise when the leaves open is dis- charged in quite a shower. Here are to be seen the necessaries and luxuries for the supply of the native community throughout the large and important planting district of which Mdtale is the centre. All the shops are after the fashion of open stalls, and the traders, their goods and transactions, from one end of the street to the other, are open to the gaze of passers-by. The barber, the tinker, the merchant of gay-coloured cloths, and the curry-stuff vendor, are all doing a roaring trade. The mellifluous tones of Ramasamy's voice are unceasing, and the stranger will not fail to be struck with surprise at the inordinate amount of talking required by every trifling bar- gain. The scenery has the same characteristics as the Kandyan district, and is especially beautiful in its wealth and variety of tropical foliage. The hills rise to an altitude of five thousand feet, and are wooded to the summits, save where clearings have been made for the cultivation of coffee, cacao, and tea; they exhibit fine specimens of some of the most remarkable trees in Ceylon, including many iron- wood trees, with crimson-tipped foliage and delicate flowers. The northern division of Matale reaches to Nalanda, on the main road to the famous rock temples of Dambulla ; so that the large number of visitors who now journey to Dambulla pass through the heart of this district and see the fine tea, cacao and rubber estates for which it is famous. Ukuwella Matale Scenery of Mdtale 132. THE ALUWIHARE. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY ng Their total extent is about sixty thousand acres, of which nearly half is cultivated. The elevation being from 1,200 to 4,000 feet, mixed planting is popular; and we find, in addition to tea and cacao, cardamoms, coconuts, areca nuts, annatto, kola, rubber, cinchona, vanilla, pepper, sapan, and sago. There are thousands of acres of rich forest which contains much ebony, satinwood, halmilla, and palu. Of climate, scenery, and products Matale affords great variety. It has its lowlands, with their coconut, vanilla and cacao groves, and the warm glow of tropical sunshine; hills of moderate elevation, in some parts cultivated, in others wild and forest-clad ; lofty mountains, with their cool and in- vigorating atmosphere so inviting to Europeans ; and to the north it stretches away in spurs which gradually decrease amidst a vast wilderness of forest and scrub, the haunt of the elephant, leopard, buffalo and bear. Big game is to be found in proximity to estates, and is still more plentiful a day's march to the north. Sambur, barking deer, and pig sport afford good hunting, while the leopard, bear, and buffalo are available as victims for the sportsman's gun. Few planting districts can boast of sporting grounds at once so good and so accessible. But Matale has also its antiquarian interest, for here is AfowilmrS situated the ancient rock temple Aluwihare, which claims our attention both as an extremely picturesque spot and one to which is attached considerable literary interest. We proceed for two miles past the town upon the Matale-Anuradhapura road, then turn aside to the left following a jungle path till we come upon a flight of stone steps which lead to what appears to have been originally a cleft in the rock (Plate 132). On the left side runs a verandah, a modern tiled erection, which conceals the entrance to a cavern sacred as the scene of King Walagambahu's convention of monks in the first century B.C., at which were transcribed the sayings of Buddha hitherto pre- served only by tradition. Prior to 1910 Matale was the starting point for the mail coach service to Dambulla and Trincomalee, but in July of that year a motor mail service, under the control of the railway, was inaugurated from Anuradhapura (on the northern section of the railway) to Trincomalee, and the mail coach service from Matale to that place was discontinued. The traveller, therefore, who wishes to visit the rock temples Dambulla of Dambulla and the ancient rock fortress of Sigiri (a trip which is strongly recommended) should either engage a motor car at Kandy or a waggonette and pair of horses which can be hired in Matale. The first stage of the journey reaches Nalanda fourteen and a half miles from Matale. Here will be found a 120 THE CEYLOX GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Nalanda good rest-house, standing in picturesque grounds and em- bowered in remarkably fine tamarind trees. It is neatly furnished and comfortable, and will serve as a convenient halting place for refreshment. Upon leaving Nalanda we shall notice that habitations become less frequent and dense forest Dambulla begins to take the place of cultivated lands. Dambulla is reached at the twenty-ninth mile from Matale. The village consists of a double row of mud huts, which do duty as native shops, and extends for about two hundred yards at the foot of a solitary mass of rock which rises from the plain to a height of about five hundred feet and is about a mile in circumference. Near the summit is a series of five caverns which in their natural state were selected as hiding places by King Walagambahu upon his being driven by the Tamils from his throne at Anuridhapura in the first century B.C. After fifteen years of exile he regained his throne, and in gratitude for the protection they had afforded him, transformed them into temples. Rock temples These caverns are entered from a ledge near the summit of a huge boulder of dark gneiss five hundred feet high and two thousand in length. The ascent is made by a steep but picturesque stairway cut in the natural rock. At the top of this rock bursts into view a landscape that apart from the interest of the temples would well repay a more toilsome climb. Ranges of mountains stretch away over the Kandyan province in the dim grey distance ; the rock of Sigiri rises in solitary grandeur from the dense forest to the east ; and beneath us lie the rice fields granted by the ancient kings as the endowment of the temples. sigiri At Dambulla there is a spacious and comfortable rest- house where, if we are travelling by horse conveyance, we shall find it convenient to put up for the night and equip ourselves with information about Sigiri, whither we should proceed at dawn. There is excellent accommodation for the traveller at the small rest-house quite near the rock, but it is desirable to notify the rest-house keeper beforehand of the intended visit as there are only two bedrooms, and food supplies have also to be arranged. For those travelling by motor car, it is recommended that they should go straight on the same day to Sigiri after visiting the Dambulla rock temples. Kasyaf.a The historic interest which attaches to this lonely crag centres in the story of the parricide King Kasyapa, who, after depriving his father Dhatu Sen of his throne and life, sought security by converting this rock into an impregnable fortress. Although it has been said that Sigiri was a stronghold in prehistoric times, we have no account of it earlier than the fifth century, the time of Kasyapa, the particulars of whose reign related in the Mahawansa are considered specially reliable teagaafct ■ nH^^^^^ e'Jfcs^ 91 IHhISBhb^^ fl^^nSL". j«lSnS BF- gtEgaJffiJafc ^pP^» , 'iir^^ 1 Ijafrf;- -■: ' V V;' : >-- 1 ~-- - "-- _.-.-;-- :^^Bfe%i-„" "~ , ■ '. ^^ IPPff^PPS*^ atana patana, is second to none for its perfect combination of all the characteristics of climate and soil that have been found suitable lor the production of the highest class of Ceylon tea. It has indeed a perfect tea-climate ; and the formation of the hills ensures immunity from damage by wind, which in many dis- tricts is a danger that has to be provided against by the growth of extensive belts of grevilleas and gums for shelter. I do not say that none are necessary in Agrapatana, but fewer than in more exposed country. The climate of Dimbula, especially in the Lindula and Agrapatana divisions, is as near perfection as need be desired. Its average shade temperature is about 65 Fahr. , and it ma}' be said that the variation is from 55° to 70 . The rainfall is about one hundred inches for the year, and is fairly distributed. After giving warning by the gradual increase in the density of the vapours, it descends in true tropical fashion, but with long intervals of sunshine between the storms. To vis:t Agrapatana we leave the railway at Talawakele, where a good road passes through Lindula for about five miles, and thence for twelve miles through the Agra district. Tim Agra Through the Agra district flows the Agra Oya, the longest feeder of the Mahaweliganga (the Great Sandy River), whose acquaintance we made at Peradeniya. This tributary takes its rise at Kirigalpotta, a mountain reaching an altitude of 7,732 feet, near the Horton Plains. As we wend our way round the hillsides it is always present, meandering close at hand in the valley beneath. In flood it is a roaring torrent, but after the rains have subsided it becomes a picturesque and shallow river, flowing amongst the thousands of massive boulders of granite that have during long ages of time become detached from the mountains and rolled into its bed. As we drive through this district we get frequent glimpses of this river and the tea estates which lie upon its banks. Here we see a factory on some spot where the presence of the stream is a valuable asset in providing power to supplement steam ; there we notice a bungalow upon some site chosen for its beau- tiful aspect ; and as we drive along the well-made metalled road we notice that every acre, with the exception of some patanas, or grass lands, from which the district derives its name, is well covered with tea plants, looking unmistakably healthy, and evidencing the perfect " tea-climate " to which we have made reference. Tea For a short description of the tea industry we can choose no planting more suitable spot than this, or one more convenient to the traveller who desires to use this book for the purpose of glean- ing information about the various districts through which he THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 135 is passing- by rail. We will first take in its order the daily round of the planter's life. To him the adage " Early to bed and early to rise " is something more than a copy-book head- line. He rises at early dawn, which in this country varies only some minutes throughout the year, and at 6 a.m. attends the muster of all the coolies employed on the estate. These com- prise men, women, and children of about eleven years and upwards, who assemble in gangs near the factory or other con- venient spot. Each gang is in charge of a cangany or task- The a master, who superintends the work of the labourers, chastises them for their shortcomings, and looks after their finances, not alwavs disinterestedly. The cangany plays an important part not only in the management of the labourers, but also in their supply, and we shall have more to say about him later. The conductor, too, is another official who puts in an appear- ance and holds an even more important position. He is the superintendent's right-hand man in the fields; he understands the art of cultivation and looks after the various gangs. The tea-maker who superintends the work inside the factory is also there ; for work in every department begins with the break of day. All appear as if by magic at the blast of a horn or the sound of a tom-tom. The superintendent arrives on the scene, counts them, and assigns them in gangs to various work; some to plucking, others to pruning, weeding-, and clearing surface drains. He then recounts them and enters the number assigned to each work, in order that he may be able to check them at the end of the day. Early tea, that simple term used in Ceylon to denote the Indian chota hazari or little breakfast, is the next item in the superintendent's programme, and he returns to his bungalow for this repast. The factory is next visited, and everything there being found satisfactory he pro- ceeds to the fields and inspects the work of the pluckers. Here he walks carefully along the lines of women and children who are plucking the young grown leaves. In our picture may be seen some pluckers at work. The Pluck-i. baskets, which they carry suspended by ropes from their heads and into which the}- cast the leaves over their shoulders, hold about fourteen pounds weight when full. At the end of each row of bushes is placed a large transport basket, into which the leaves are emptied from time to time as the baskets become full. Women are preferred to men for this work, and earn as much as twenty-five cents, or about fourpence a day. They are not always the wives of the male coolies of the estate ; many of them come over from fndia attracted by the high rate of wages above mentioned. They look very picturesque while standing intent upon their work among the bushes, with their fine glossv hair and dreamy black eyes, their ears, necks, arms, and ankles adorned with silver ornaments, and their gay cloths of manv 136 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Tea planting colours falling' in graceful folds. To such an extent does prac- tice quicken the action of eye, brain, and finger, that it is difficult for the uninitiated to believe how carefully chosen is each leaf or shoot that falls into the basket. Plucking is a most important part of the tea-planter's business, and re- quires careful teaching and constant supervision. Only the young and succulent leaves can be used in the manufacture, and the younger the leaf the finer the quality of the tea ; so that if a specially delicate quality is desired, only the bud and two extreme leaves of each shoot will be taken ; whereas if a large yield is wanted, as many as four leaves may be plucked from the top of the shoot downwards, but with the result of a proportionately poorer quality of the manufactured article. There are many other points in the art of tea plucking that require care and judgment, as, for instance, the eye or bud in the axil of the leaf plucked must be left uninjured on the branch ; and where special grades of tea are required the selec- tion of particular leaves is of the utmost importance. Weeding Although a tea estate has no hedgerows or such visible boundaries, it is nevertheless divided into fields for convenience of treatment, and each field is visited in turn by the super- intendent. Weeding- is very effectively and thoroughly carried out. It would astonish farmers in the Old Country to hear that in Ceylon the tea fields are weeded on contract at the rate of about one shilling and fourpence for each acre per month, and that upon this system they are kept almost entirely free from weeds and grass. Indeed, it may be said that the tea gardens of Ceylon are kept far cleaner than most of the flower gardens of England. ,, ■ If left to Nature the tea plant will grow to the height of about twenty feet, with a circumference of about the same ; but the art of the planter keeps it down to about three feet by constant prunings. After a year or two of plucking the plant naturally loses the vitality requisite to send forth abund- ance of new shoots ; it then undergoes the merciless operation of dismemberment ; its branches are lopped off to such an extent that it looks utterly ruined. But, as though its vital parts had appreciated the rest, it bursts forth with renewed vigour, and in a very few weeks is ready for the ordeal of another year's constant plucking. It is the practice in some cases to prune somewhat lightly every year and in others to apply a heavier pruning biennially. But we are anticipating, and it will perhaps be better to explain the treatment of the plant in its earliest stages of growth. It is planted in the fields either as seed or in the form of young plants taken from a nursery. Each plant is allotted twelve square feet of surface soil, and thus we may sav that a full planted acre contains 3,630 plants. An 140. PRUNING. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 139 important consideration in planting out the young seedlings which are raised in the nursery is the " lining " or placing them so that each may obtain the fullest exposure to the sun, in order that when they reach maturity the plucking surface, which wholly depends upon the sun's influence, may be as great as possible. Opinions differ as to the age at which plucking may begin, but it depends greatly upon the elevation of the estate above sea-level, the growth being naturally less rapid in the cooler regions of higher altitude. We may, however, say roughly that in the low country, from sea-level to two thou- sand feet, tea plants will mature for plucking in two years, and upon the higher lands in four years. But about a year before the plant thus comes into bearing for purposes of tea manufacture it is cut down to about nine inches or a foot from the ground ; and again the same operation is performed two inches higher than the first cutting a couple of months before plucking begins. The plant is now plucked regularly every eight or nine days for two years, when it is again cut down to a couple of inches above the last cut. It will be seen from the foregoing remarks that in the matter of pruning the vounger bushes are treated somewhat differently from the older ones, inasmuch as the young ones are allowed to retain a larger proportion of their recent growth. The amateur who tries his prentice hand with the pruning knife will be surprised at the hard labour of the task and the d'scomfort of the stooping attitude that must be adopted ; and when it is considered that a field of about fifty acres contains some two hundred thousand bushes the amount of toil in- volved will become apparent. Of course male coolies only are- employed at this work, and they become so remarkably dex- terous that what seems to the novice a task of great exertion becomes to them one of comparative ease. The branches which are lopped off in the process of pruning are for the most part left where they fall; but as many fall into and obstruct the surface drains it is necessary to put on coolies to clear these out. A space of about six feet on either side of the drain is kept entirely free, so that there may be no impediment to the flow of the surface water. It is, how- ever, considered advisable, in seasons of much blight, to burv or burn the prunings, and this method has recently been very extensively adopted. It is now about ten o'clock, and the baskets of the most dexterous pluckers should be nearly full. The superintendent therefore returns to them and notes against their names the weight of leaf plucked by each, after which the baskets are emptied and the leaf conveyed to the factory. This operation is repeated two or three times in the course of the day. At four o'clock the pluckers cease work and carry off their baskets 140 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Tea planting to the factor}', where the)' sort over the leaf upon mats spread on the ground, as shown in our picture, and cast out any very coarse leaf that may have been accidentally plucked. The number of pounds plucked by each cooly is again entered in the check roll against his or her name, and then the sum of each plucker's efforts passes before the eye of the super- intendent before the coolies are dismissed ; and woe betide him, or her, who has not a goodly weight accounted for. Laziness thus detected brings a fine of half pay and in many cases a taste of the cangany's stick. But we were describing the daily round of the superin- tendent, and at present we have not pursued it beyond the early morning visits to various kinds of field work. Some four hours spent in this occupation in the pure mountain air, upon the rockj' steeps that we have described, induce a fairly healthy appetite for food and drink, and the next consideration is therefore the inner man. The planter returns to his bungalow for breakfast at about eleven, and generally spends the after- noon in attention to correspondence. At four the sound of the tom-tom, horn, or whistle, according to the custom of the estate, summons the coolies from the fields to the muster ground, where the superintendent now marks them down in the check-roll for their day's pay. In case of bad or in- sufficient work the offender is marked down as " sick," which means no pay at all for that day ; or he gets what is termed "half a name," which means half pay. Now they depart to Cooly lines their dwellings, which are called "lines." A cooly line is usually a long building of one storey only, divided into a large number of compartments. Each compartment accommodates about four coolies, and it is obvious that they do not rejoice in the luxury of much space ; but their ideas of comfort are not ours, and they are better pleased to lie huddled together upon the mud floors of these tiny hovels than to occupy superior apartments. Their lot does no^ call for pity or sympathy, for in many respects they are a favoured class. The factory We have now dealt with a day's field-work : we have seen how the raw material is obtained ; but we have still to examine the various processes by which it is converted into the manu- factured article. For this purpose we visit the factory. Here the green leaf undergoes four distinct processes, known as withering, rolling, fermenting, and firing. We will take these in their order, and first as to withering : Withering Let us deal with the green leaf that has been plucked on Monday and brought to the factory as before described. It is received by the tea maker, who ascertains its net weight, which he enters in a book. It is then passed on to an upper storey, where it is spread thinly on shelves of jute hessian and left to wither. Our illustration of this process will give THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 14: a better idea of the shelves and the method of spreading' the Tea planting leaves than many words of description. These shelves are some- times made of wire instead of jute, but jute hessian very loosely- woven, so that the air can pass freely through it, is mostly used for this purpose. Successful withering depends very much on good light, warm temperature and a dry atmosphere. The last named is often the most difficult to obtain, and upon wet, dull days it has to be produced by artificial means. In fan- weather the leaf will wither naturally in about eighteen or twenty hours, but as the weather and climates vary in different districts there can be no time rule to guide the tea maker. When it is explained that the object of withering the leaf is to allow the sap and other moisture to evaporate until the leal assumes a particular degree of softness and flaccidity, which renders it susceptible to a good twist by the roller in the next process, it will be realised how important a thing it is for the tea maker to judge of the exact moment when these con- ditions have been reached and the withering must terminate. The leaf, being withered to this exact degree, is swept Rolling together and conveyed to the lower floor by means of a shoot. Here it is put into a machine called a roller. The object of rolling is to squeeze out the tannin and any moisture left over after the withering and to give the leaf a good twist. It is difficult to describe a tea roller, or to illustrate its effective parts by a photograph of the complete machine in working ; our illustration should, however, assist us to understand it sufficiently with the following explanation : The lower part may be regarded as a table with cylindrical ribs attached to its surface and a trap door in the centre. Suspended above this table is a smaller surface opposed to it, and the two sur- faces are moved in contrary directions by a crank with an eccentric motion. The upper surface is open in the centre, and extending upwards from the opening is a funnel or box to receive the withered leaf, which being therein placed the two surfaces are set in motion by steam or other power, and the leaf is thus rolled and twisted between the two surfaces. The lid of the funnel or box is gradually screwed down as rolling- proceeds, and in this way the pressure upon the leaf is regu- lated. The appearance of the leaf or " roll," as it is technically termed, when taken out of the roller is a mess of mashy lumps. It is next put through a roll-breaker, which not only breaks up the balls or lumps into which the leaves have formed but sifts the small and fine leaf through a wire mesh on to a cloth placed below to receive it. The roll-breaker operates on the leaf by means of rapidly revolving shafts to which are attached iron forks that beat against the balls as they are cast into the funnel. It is by the use of rolling machinery that Cevlon tea The roll breaker 144 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Tea planting i s kept pure and free from the dirt which finds its way into the teas of China, where the operation is performed by the hands of the bland but unwashed Ah Sin. Fermenting The leaf is next spread out in wooden frames, and having been covered by wet cloths is allowed to ferment until it attains a bright copper tint such as the infused leaves have in the tea-pot ; or at least should have, for the brighter they appear the better the tea. The rolling process, by breaking the cells of the leaf, induces fermentation, which is a very necessary stage of the manufacture, the character of the tea when made depending greatly on the degree to which fermentation is allowed to continue. When the commodity known as green tea is required, the fermentation is checked at once so that no change of colour may take place ; but to produce black tea the process must be carried on for a considerable time, the sufficiency of which is determined by the smell and appearance of the leaf — points that require considerable experience and care, since over-fermentation entirely spoils the quality.* Desiccating Eermentation being complete, the tea is now transferred to the apparatus known as the desiccator, where it undergoes the process known as firing. The fermented leaf is spread thinly upon wire trays, which are pushed one after the other into this machine, where a current of hot air from 210 to 220 Fahr. is made to pass through them. The tea emerges from the desiccator perfectly dry and brittle, and of a black colour. It is now completely manufactured. The tea maker next weighs it and enters the amount of " made tea " against the leaf which he received on Monday, and it should be found to be lighter by 76 per cent. The actual ratio of green leaf to " made tea " works out at about 4,200 lbs. of green leaf to 1,000 lbs. of manufactured tea. Monday's plucking which has now by Tuesday night been converted into tea, is placed in bins, with wire meshed lids, to cool, and on Wednesday morning it goes through the process of sifting, which sorts it up into the various grades known commercially as Broken Orange Pekoe, Orange Pekoe, Pekoe, Souchong, and Dust, all of which terms are of Chinese origin, and refer to some characteristic of the sort of tea they represent. si/ting The sifter is a machine consisting of a series of sieves one above the other in the form of sloping trays with wire meshes. The top tray has a mesh large enough to admit all but the coarsest leaf; the mesh of the second one is somewhat smaller, and the third and fourth decrease in like manner. This * In the Kelani Valley and other districts of the low country where the climate is much hotter, very little fermenting is necessary. The leaves are spread out thinly for a short time and firing may then be proceeded with. 146 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Tea planting sequence of meshes, varying in their apertures, is designed to allow the tea to practically sift itself, inasmuch as each sieve arrests a particular grade, the smallest leaf falling through all the sieves. These sieves or trays are made to oscillate at a very high rate of speed, the power being supplied from the factorv engine. It will be seen from our illustration that the sifter automatically ejects the various grades by means of spouts from which it falls into chests. Golden Tips There is yet something more to be said about the tea as it comes from the sifter. The smallest " leaf " which finds its way to the bottom of the sifter is known as " tea dust." It makes good tea ; but the crime de la crcme of Ceylon tea is that which is arrested by the fourth sieve, known commercially as Broken Orange Pekoe. It is a fine and small tea, consist- ing to a great extent of voung tips which look like little chips of wood. These tips not only give the tea a good appear- ance, but they add greatlv to its strength and flavour when infused, as they are the essence of the leaf. Alone the)' would be far too strong for the tea-pot, but sometimes they have been separated from the other leaves and sold as pure golden tips. They may be separated by throwing the tea against a big sheet of jute-hessian, to which the tips adhere and the remainder falls to the ground. The Broken Orange Pekoe travels along the lowest tray till it reaches the end of the machine, where it falls into its box, from which it is removed, weighed again, and transferred to bins reserved for its special grade. The other grades, Orange Pekoe, Pekoe, and Souchong are all treated in like manner, each falling from the sifter into its special box. The tea maker enters into the factory book the weight of each grade- after sifting, and checks it by the aggregate weight entered before sifting. The different grades are day by day stored away in their separate bins, until there is enough to make what is tech- nically known as a " break," which means a sufficient quantity to place on the market — say 6,000 lbs. and upwards. Bulking The next operation is " bulking," a process simple enough, but of very real importance. The whole contents of the bins of one grade are thrown out and moved by scoops or shovels until they become so thoroughly mixed that one pound of tea is quite certain to be equal to another in flavour and appear- ance. This bulking is necessary to ensure a uniformity of qualitv throughout a grade of tea which has been plucked and made on different days. The term " factory bulked," when marked upon the chests in which the tea is packed for ship- ment, indicates that the above operations have taken place, and is a guarantee of uniform quality. It is imperative that the planter should give most careful attention to this matter, THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 147 as buyers are entitled to reject any break that does not prove to be evenly bulked ; and, moreover, teas discovered to be unevenly bulked when they arrive in the London customs are liable to be rebulked at the expense of the grower before removal. Packing- j s the next operation. Each chest is lined with lead, and weighed carefully with its little packet of hoop iron and nails necessary for finally securing the lid. The gross weight of each is noted, and filling then commences. This is generally done by machinery. The chest is placed on a plat- form which oscillates and revolves at about two thousand five hundred revolutions a minute ; the tea being poured in is thus shaken so that the utmost capacity of the chest is utilised. All this is done so accurately that the full chest contains its allotted net weight to an ounce. A sheet of lead is now placed on the top and soldered down, thus securing the contents from air or moisture. The lids now being nailed on and the hoop iron attached, the chests are reach' for the final operation of marking with the estate name, the grade, and the gross and net weight, after which they are ready for despatch to the tea market. That tea planting is an active and busy life will be gathered from the foregoing sketch of the daily round, and it may not be untrue to say that the planter as a rule works hard. Perhaps it is equally true that he plays harder. In this and many other districts life is by no means all work, nor does it mean, as it used to do in the early coffee days, banishment from the amenities of social life. Each district has its sporting, social, and athletic clubs, and cricket, football, and hockey grounds, while some have also their racecourse. We take train again at Talawakele, and after a mile or two a distant view' of the beautiful Devon Falls is noticed. An interesting feature of this part of the journey is the curious serpentine winding of the line. In one place to advance a single furlong it takes a curve of nearly a mile in length, tracing the outline of a huge soda-water bottle, and rising meanwhile ninety feet. The windings necessary to reach the Great Western mountains now become so compressed that to accomplish the distance of about one mile direct the train traverses six miles of railway in a fashion so circuitous that a straight line drawn from a certain point would cross the rails nine times. Watagoda (120m. 9c). — Watagoda station has no feature of special interest beyond its usefulness in receiving and 4.4°°/^ despatching the produce of the important districts which it serves; but as we reach it, having ascended to four hundred feet above Talawakele, the atmosphere becomes so crisp and refreshing that it is difficult to realise the latitude of our Watagoda 148 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Main Line position within six degrees of the equator. The line now gradually ascends upon the steep sides of the Great Western range, and approaches Nanuoya, with sensational crossings upon girders laid from rock to rock over the clefts of the moun- tains, affording magnificent views of the Dimbula district and of Adam's Peak, twenty-five miles distant, and upwards of seven thousand feet above sea-level. The lovely purple glow that softly lights the distant ridges in the early morn lends an additional charm to the return journey begun at daybreak. Nanuoya Nanuova (128m. 6c). — Nanuoya is the junction for the "" ■ ' Nuwara Eliya and Udapussellawa line. The railway facilities are convenient, including waiting, dressing, and refreshment rooms. Passengers travelling from Bandarawela can order their meals by telegraph free of cost. We shall for the purpose of our description continue upon the main line to the terminus of Bandarawela, afterwards re- turning to the narrow gauge line which serves Nuwara Eliya. From Nanuoya the main line gradually ascends some 700 more feet in the next nine miles, the scenery changing from cultivated tea estates to stretches of primeval forest inter- spersed with patanas or grass lands. The temperature be- comes cold and the vegetation, although never leafless, appears stunted as compared with the luxuriance of the lower valleys. On the opposing slopes of a magnificent gorge the Dambagas- talawa waterfalls dashing forth in the midst of dense forest will be noticed from the train, and afford a beautiful sight that should be watched for by the traveller. Ambaweia Ambawela (137m. 8c). — Ambawela station serves the New 6,o64/ "' Gallway estates five miles distant ; but is far from any town or village. Vegetables of every kind that flourish in tem- perate climates do well here and are cultivated for the Colombo market and the requirements of the passenger steamships. Among the animals that inhabit the forests are the " elk," or, more correctly, the " sambhur " deer, the leopard, and the elephant. Pattipola Pattipola (139m. 6c). — Here the highest point of the main line is reached. This station interests us as being a con- venient point from which to start on a walking or riding ex- cursion to the Horton Plains (six miles). It is not the nearest station to the plains ; but from it the path is easier than from Ohiva, and it is the only one of the two accessible on horse- back. Moreover, there is a comfortable rest-house at Pattipola where wc can stay in case of missing- a train. Horton Plains will presently be described ; but first some reference must be made to the unique natural features of the spot we have now reached. At Pattipola there is but a wall of rock, the crest of a mountain, between us and a province totally different in physical aspect and in climate. The railway pierces the rock 6,245 f"* 144. A GORGE OF THE UVA DOWNS. 145. OHIYA RAILWAY STATION. 146. UVA UNDER ITS RAINY MANTLE. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 151 at a spot about a mile beyond Pattipola Station, and as we Main Line emerge there is suddenly spread before us the grandest panorama in Ceylon, a vast mountain ledge of rolling downs, six hundred square miles in extent, forming an arena to the lofty blue mountains that surround it. It is the province of Uva. The transition is instantaneous, and the spectacle a startling startling, especially if, as often happens, we have been en- veloped in damp mists in our approach to the tunnel. The phenomenon is most striking in the south-west monsoon, when the prevailing weather on the west side of the dividing range is wet, misty and cold, while on the eastern side the whole plains are ablaze with sunshine, and the air is crisp and dry. It is even possible to stand on the crest of the mountain through which the tunnel passes and see the storms of the west being held back from the bracing air and sunshine of the east by the dividing ranges. The existence of these two distinct and separate climates is due to the action of the monsoons in con- nection with the peculiar formation of the mountain system. The astonishing effect is not limited to this neighbourhood, but extends to all the ranges which divide the province of Uva from the west. Thus it frequently happens that when Nuwara Eliya is wet, a clear sky and sunshine may be enjoyed by an hour's drive into Uva, and vice versd, for Uva is frequently under its rainy mantle during the north-east monsoon. Some beautiful effects are produced by this peculiar combination of phenomena in the graceful forms evolved from the mists as they roll onward and gather in dense masses above the crests of the mountain barriers that protect the sunny plains. Ohiya (143m. 33c). — Ohiya, which we illustrate in plate Ohiya 145, is one of the most picturesque stations on this line; but its beauty is of a character reminiscent of Cornwall rather than the tropics, for here we see English flowers in great variety and abundance, and no sign of the flora which dis- tinguishes the lower elevations. About a thousand feet above Ohiya lie the Horton Plains, which may be reached in an hour and a half by a precipitous path through the forest. This extensive table-land, seven thousand feet above sea-level, was, until the introduction of the railway, so exempt from human interference that the elk, red deer, wild boar, and leopard dwelt there in great numbers, and the sportsman of Ceylon could always depend on a good bag. The old rest-house was the only building for fifteen miles, and it was chiefly used for hunting and shooting parties. The present rest-house is a comfortable building, and in the trout-fishing season is much frequented by fishermen, who come to seek the wily trout in the picturesque stream, which has been stocked and preserved by the Ceylon Fishing Club, and which winds for many miles through the valley. 5,go2/eet Jlorton Plains i 5 2 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Main Line The famous abyss known as The World's End, within a The Worlds short walk of Horton Plains rest-house, also attracts a number of travellers, and merits a few lines of description. The southern portion of the great table-land ends so abruptly as to give the sensation of having literally arrived at the end of the world. The traveller comes upon this suddenly when emerging from the forest, and the effect is startling in the extreme. One may stand at the brink of the precipice and gaze straight down the sheer side of the mountain upon another world five thousand feet below. Here is an atmosphere bracing and cold ; there lie the steaming plains of the low country. So great is the distance of the plantations, rivers, bungalows, and forests, that only by the aid of a telescope can the nature of any particular object be determined. Few human eyes looked across that marvellous abyss until quite recent years ; but with the facilities now offered by the railway it is becoming a more frequented spot. Although the leopard may have deserted his old haunt and the herds of elephants betaken themselves to quieter regions undisturbed by the iron horse, the same weird forests, with their dense undergrowth of masses of nelu scrub, the same magnificent landscapes and the impressive scene at the World's End are there unaltered. The trees, which look so old and undisturbed with their rich long beards of variegated moss, appear to be dwarfed by the cold of their lofty and exposed situation. Wild flowers, orchids, and ferns always render the scene fairy-like in the sunshine, but it is when the nelu is in blossom that these highland forests transcend in beauty almost every other part of Cevlon. This lovely flower- ing shrub, of the Strobilanthes family, is the chief undergrowth in these forests, and the species number as many as twenty- seven, some of which grow only in the drier parts of the country, but about twenty of them favour those forests with a considerable rainfall. Some are delicate and small, others have thick cane stems and grow to a great height. The blossoms cluster round the joints of their stems, and display great variety of colour — blue, purple, red, white, and the parti- coloured crimson and white. The blossoming is so profuse that the plant takes some years to recover, and it is therefore seldom that these high jungles are seen in their fullest glory. The fragrance of the atmosphere is no less remarkable than the beautv of the scene. 4,7 6 5/ Haputale Haputale (153m. 43c). — From Ohiya the railway gradually descends amidst a multitude of broken cliffs and rocky ravines and through a series of short tunnels until Haputale is reached. This place should be visited by the traveller, if only for the magnificent view to be obtained of the low country. On a clear day the lowlands are visible right away to the south coast. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 153 There is usually considerable haze over wooded and undulated lands in the far distance; but even this is beautiful, and lends a lovely blue tint to the whole scene. To the south of Haputale lies an important planting- district possessing- an almost perfect climate and lovely scenery. The visitor, who will find the accommodation at the rest-house sufficient for his needs, should explore the outlying districts of Koslande and Haldamulla. Diyatalawa (156m. 76c). — Diyatalawa is famous as the place where five thousand of the Boer prisoners-of-war were encamped for two years. A considerable number of the build- ings erected for their accommodation are still in use for military purposes, the camp being used as a sanatorium for regular troops and a training ground for the volunteers. Bandarawela (160m. 58c). — Bandarawela is the terminus of the main line. Upon arrival here the visitor is generally eager to admit that upon no other railway journey has he ex- perienced scenes so varied and interesting as those afforded by this journey from Colombo to Bandarawela. The railway now renders the choice of climate to which we have previously re- ferred available at all seasons. There is a good hotel at Bandarawela, and the enervated resident of the lowlands can at all times make sure of enjoying fine invigorating air in a few hours, choosing Uva when Nuwara Eliya is wet, and vice versa. The principal mountains which enclose the great stretch of rolling downs, which we have seen upon our journey down from Ohiya, surveying them from the left, are Hakgalla, Pidurutallagalla, the Udapussellawa and Kandapola ranges, and Namunakula. Many pleasant excursions are open to the visitor from Bandarawela, descriptions of which we have not space to include here. We must, however, make some reference to one of the most charming towns of Ceylon, that lies in a lovely valley at the foot of the noble Namunakula — Badulla, the capital of the province and the seat of the Government Agent. Between Bandarawela and Badulla there is a regular coach service, which makes the journey quite practicable for the visitor. The journey of seventeen miles will be found interest- ing mainly on account of the flourishing tea estates through which we pass and the rice fields which will fill the valley for the last four or five miles. Arriving at Badulla, in consequence of our having descended from an elevation of four thousand to about two thousand feet, the climate will be found much warmer. The lower elevation favours tropical verdure, and we see in Badulla the beautiful trees and palms that we miss in the arena of the patanas of Uva. Upon entering the town the traveller is impressed by the architectural features, the fine trees and the general well-kept air of the place. Diyatalawa 4,367 feet 147. VIEW FROM HAPUTALE LOOKING TO TOTAPELLA. 148. Th 149. SHARP CURVE OF THE RAILWAY ABOVE NANUOYA. CHAPTER VIII THE UDAPUSSELLAWA LINE ITINERARY Passengers for Nuwara Eliya leave the main line trains at Nanuoya Nanuoya and proceed by the narrow-gauge line which passes swf"* through Nuwara Eliya to the district of Udapussellawa. The pass by which Nuwara Eliya is reached is one of the most exquisite things in Ceylon. In traversing its length the line makes a further ascent of one thousand feet in six miles. The curves and windings necessary to accomplish this are the most intricate on the whole railway, and frequently have a radius of only eighty feet. On the right side of a deep mountain gorge we ascend amongst the tea bushes of Edin- burgh estate, and at length emerge upon a road, which the line shares with the cart traffic for about a mile. In the depths of the defile flows the Nanuoya river, foaming amongst huge boulders of rock that have descended from the sides of the mountains, and bordered by tree ferns innumerable and brilliant trees of the primeval forest which entirely clothe the face of the heights. In this land of no seasons their stages of growth are denoted by the varying tints of scarlet, gold, crimson, sallow green, and, most striking of all, a rich claret colour, Udapussei- the chief glory of the keena tree. Here is no leafless winter, although we have reached an altitude where frost is not un- known. None of the plants are deciduous. In such a climate, however, with bright, warm and sunny days following on chilly nights, the lovely ferns which sometimes in the early i55 i 5 6 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Udapussel- lawa Line Nuwara Eli; Local accommodatu morn look pitiable with their blackened fronds soon recover their wonted hues. In plate 149 we see one of the sharp curves of the railway to which we have referred, and in plate 148 we see the road and railway together. At Blackpool the railway leaves the cart road and enters an enchanting glen embellished with pools and bordered by receding hills down whose slopes the waters of twin cataracts are dashing in head- long course. Blackpool is the site for the new station for the electric lighting of Nuwara Eliya, the falls of the Nanuoya stream being used to give the necessary power. We cross the waters where they reach the glen, and passing through a deep cutting come out upon the plain of Nuwara Eliya, which the railway crosses, reaching the station on the eastern side. Nuwara Eliya (6m. 45c.) is well equipped with hotels and boarding-houses. The Grand Hotel is in a central position on the west side of the plain overlooking the golf links and public gardens ; the New Keena Hotel, on the same side, is near the United Club, croquet and tennis grounds, and the race-course ; the Grand Central Hotel, near the golf links, and the St. Andrews Hotel, well situated at the north end of the plain, command a fine view of the whole station. Amongst boarding-houses, Carlton House will be found both cheap and comfortable, especially for families with children : it is a favourite resort for planters' families who want a change. In addition to the accommodation thus afforded, furnished bungalows for families making a prolonged visit are usually available. There is probably no other place in the world that possesses such a remarkable combination of attractions as Nuwara Eliya. This fact should be noted not only by the large army of wan- derers who annually flee from the rigours of winter in northern latitudes, but also by the enfeebled residents of the Indian plains, for whom this unique retreat with its health-giving properties should have an irresistible attraction. Nuwara Eliya has a special recommendation which gives it the palm over all other health resorts. Here we can enjoy the purest and most invigorating air, with a temperature best suited to the health of Europeans, and yet behold a luxuriant tropical country at our feet. We can experience the change from a glorious bright day to a cold Scotch mist, and yet, if we choose, we can leave the moist atmosphere and leaden sky at will, and by an hour's drive reach dry hills and sunny plains. Year by year Nuwara Eliya is becoming more popular as a winter resort for English people who wish to avoid the vagaries and trials of an English winter. The journey is simplicity itself, and only involves stepping into a steamer at London, Southampton, or Liverpool and stepping off again at Colombo. The cost is moderate, and there is a varied choice < g Z THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 159 of first class shipping lines, such as the P. and O., Orient, Nuwara Eliya Bibby, North German Lloyd, Messageries Maritimes, Nippon Kaisha (Japanese), and others. Those who have wearied of the Riviera and Egypt, and who desire to seek "pastures new," will never regret the comfortable voyage to the East and the subsequent happy days spent in Ceylon and Nuwara Eliya, with its glorious climate and varied attractions. A clear idea of the situation of this favoured spot can best be gained by regarding the highlands of Ceylon as one huge upheaval, having an area of about 4,000 square miles, with an irregular surface of hills and peaks of varying height, deep ravines and grassy plains, dense forests and open valleys ; a dozen distinct climates, each with its special characteristics of animal and vegetable life, from the lofty palms and gorgeous flowering shrubs of the lower elevations to the hardwood trees and English flowers of the highest ; from the steaming" haunts of the bear and buffalo to the cool regions beloved of the elk and elephant. There are choice of climate and choice of scenery to suit an)' constitution and to gratify every taste ; the wildest rugged country and the fairest undulating plains; wild sport Attractions to for the daring, golf-links and trout-fishing for quieter spirits, and a new world withal for those who need a complete change from familiar scenes. From the base of this mighty upheaval rise abruptly the four extensive ledges which we observed from the sea, at different elevations, and a number of lofty mountains, some of which reach the height of 5,000 to 8,000 feet above sea-level. The highest, called Pidurutallagalla, reaches 8,280 feet, and at the foot of it lies the Nuwara Eliya plain, just 2,000 feet below. Its position is, roughly speaking, in the centre of the highlands and approximately at the highest elevation, o'ertopped by only one of the mountain ledges. What wonder, then, at its pure and unpolluted air and its marvellous effects on the weakened constitutions of denizens of the low country, who find in it a sanatorium for regaining the energies they have lost? To the newly-arrived visitor nothing is more astonishing than the mental and physical change that he himself experi- ences. The pale and languid victim of the sultry plains is surprised at the sudden return of his lost appetite and the delightful glow that pervades the system, marking the return of the warm tints of health. A few days effect a still greater change ; the muscles become firm, the limbs gain vigour, and, above all, the rising spirits rapidly dispel the clouds of de- pression and invest existence with new delight. All this is due to the wonderful influence of the pure mountain air. Nuwara Eliya is an elliptical mountain valley, the plateau Geographical being 6,240 feet above sea-level and about eight miles in cir- cumference. It is surrounded by steep mountain ridges rising lusitors lis situation Its salubrity fcatur 160 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Nuwara Eliya to a height varying from a few hundred to two thousand feet above the plain. There are four gaps — that on the north-east leading into the Kotmale valley, that on the south-east to the province of Uva, that on the west to the Dimbula valley, and that on the east to Kandapolla and Udapussellawa. The tops themselves are for the most part thickly wooded, and still con- stitute favourite haunts of the leopard and the elk. The plain is charmingly undulated, and forms an admirable playground for both residents and visitors. In this connection it boasts, like so many other places, one of the best golf-links out of Scotland, and possesses an excellent race-course. climate When we remember that Nuwara Eliya is only six degrees north of the equator, and no more than 6,240 feet above the sea, the mean temperature, which is only 57 Fahrenheit, appears extraordinarily low. There is no doubt that this is mainly due to the geographical position of the island. Its moderate dimensions expose it to the full influence of the uniform temperature of the surrounding seas, while it is subject to the direct rays of the sun only twelve hours out of the twenty-four. The intense evaporation by day and the rapid cooling by night are also two important factors in the climatic peculiarities of the island. The Governor of Ceylon has a charming residence here (Queen's Cottage), and he and his family frequently make use of it, especially in the hot weather from March to May. its season The Nuwara Eliya season extends from November to May, each month having a fair proportion of fine days, February being the finest. On the whole, perhaps, March is the pleasantest. June and July are the only months that should be altogether avoided on account of rain and wind. October is generally very wet. But let it not be supposed that the merits of Nuwara Eliya as a health resort disappear with the fine weather. It is true that during the second half of the year rainy days arc prevalent, but the occasional bright spells intervening bring the most glorious days of the year, and the worst that can be said is that during this period it resembles a rather wet summer in the Highlands of Scotland. Moderately warm days, with a Scotch mist, followed by cool evenings that allure to the cheerful fireside of a well-furnished and carpeted bungalow, with intermittent days of sunshine, and a change within easy distance to any temperate climate you may fancy, make up a state of things not to be contemned even by those who are in a position to humour their every whim. Nuwara Eliya, indeed, supplies not onlv the energy needed for vigorous exercise, but provides also, in addition to its sporting facilities, innumerable walks that are unequalled in their attractions. Amongst them, the path to the summit of Pidurutallagalla, 8,300 feet above the level of the sea, deserves especial mention. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 161 The ascent is easy and the reward great. From no other Nuwara Eiiya mountain top in the world can you literally see over a whole pidurutaila- island of such extent and beauty as from this. From shore i '" // " to shore lie outstretched in every direction forests and plains, mountain ranges interlaced in intricate confusion, masses of verdant patana lands, interspersed with glittering streams : while the stillness of the profound solitude is broken only by the sounds from mountain torrents in their wild rush over the huge boulders in the rock)- ravines. It is here, with the accumulated impressions of the whole journey from the coast to the highest point of the highlands fresh in his mind, that the traveller confers on Ceylon the title of "the show place of the universe." The journey to the top is about four miles, and a very good two hours' walk. The glorious exhilaration of the pure and bracing air encourages residents in Nuwara Eliya to make frequent excursions on this account alone. The prospect varies so much under different atmospheric conditions that every fresh trip is amply rewarded by the ever-changing scenes that meet the gaze, while the cloud studies surpass even those of Alpine countries. But grandest of all is that beautiful scene which heralds the approach of day. To stand upon the highest point of this sea-girt land, with the shadowed sky above and brooding dark- ness below, there to watch the rosy-fingered dawn cast her first rays upon the thousand peaks that begin to peep through the snowy mists which yet enshroud the low-lying valleys, is an experience well worth the surrender of a few hours of sleep and an occasional fright at midnight forest sounds which betoken the proximity of some denizen of the jungle. The first glimmer of light reveals snowy masses of mist as far as the eye can scan, right awav to the ocean east and west, with lighted peaks peering through the veil resembling laughing islands dotting a sea of foam. Then as the dawn breaks a golden tint gradually appears over the hills, and when the sun bursts over the horizon a rapid transformation takes place. The petrified surf of the mists now begins to move upwards, and reveals with vivid clearness the valleys all fresh from their repose. The dewy leaves of the forest trees and the trails of beautiful moss which cling to their branches glisten with tints of gold, the moistened rocks sparkle with diamonds, and all nature rejoices at the new-born day. As the sun rises higher the nearer slopes become more distinct, and the distant ranges are clearly visible right away to Adam's Peak. The intermediate range of the Great Western (7,264 feet), five miles west of Nuwara Eliya, and Talankanda range (6,137 feet), dividing the tea-growing districts of Dim- bula and Dickoya, are seen most clearly as the sun gains power. L 16s THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Nuwara Eliya Nuwara Eliya is lying at our feet. The whole plain glistens with hoar frost or sparkling dew ; the river, like a silver streak, winds its course to the Hakgalla gorge, and for a great dis- tance ranges of forest-clad mountains alternate with waving plains. The nearest range is that called One Tree Hill, then comes the Elk Plains range, the next is a mountain of the Agrapatana district, and the lofty range in the distance is that of Horton Plains. The tops of all these ranges are clothed with forests, while rolling patanas cover the ridges between. As we descend in the broadening day we notice the great contrast between the character of the Pidurutallagalla forest and that of the lowlands. Instead of waving palms we see weird trees with gnarled trunks and forked boughs, festooned with long beards of lichen and orange moss. Many of the trunks are clothed with rich green creepers and adorned with the fantastic blooms of native orchids, and parasites innumer- able bedeck the upper branches with strangest flowers, while the magnificent Rhododendron arboreum, with its great branches and brilliant blossoms, appears everywhere as a common forest tree. Although the European community is small, it cannot be said that life is in the least degree monotonous to those who are fond of country pursuits. In addition to the wild sport of the jungle, including hunting (on foot) of the so-called elk (really sambhur deer), at which the presence of visitors is welcomed by the courteous owners of local packs, there are many distractions, such as cricket, golf, polo, hockey, and lawn-tennis. The lake is full of carp, and trout have been successfully introduced into the neighbouring streams, licences to fish in which are granted for any period between the months of April or May and October on payment of the necessary subscription. Goij But of all the amusements in which Nuwara Eliya indulges we must award golf the first place, because it has the largest number of votaries. That this should be so nobody wonders who sees the links and realises what a perfect golfing climate Nuwara Eliya affords. The course consists of eighteen^ holes, and for perfect turf, excellent greens, and variety of hazards it would be difficult to find an equal. Visitors are welcomed by the Golf Club and can play on moderate terms, and in this perfect climate the game can be played at morning, noon, or eve — a blessing to the low country resident, whose exercise is usually restricted to the cooler hours of evening, when the sun's rays are less severe. The visitor, be he from the low country of Ceylon, from the plains of India, or from distant England, Australia, New Zealand, or the Far East, has nothing but praise for this 153. NATIVE TREE FERNS AT HAKGALLA. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 165 perfectly maintained golf course. Ladies are allowed to play on these links except on Saturdays and Sundays. For the sterner sex, the Hill Club, with its perfect situation and comfortable accommodation (including a number of bed- rooms), will be found most excellent, and members of recog- nised clubs can obtain temporary membership. It ranks as the principal club of Ceylon, out of Colombo. The United Club for ladies and gentlemen is a most suc- cessful institution. It includes a library, reading-room, ball- room, concert hall, separate ladies' or "mixed" golf links, croquet and lawn tennis courts. Its quarters are situated in the midst of its courts and links and command exceedingly pretty views. There is an excellent cricket pitch in front of the club-house, and although this once supremely popular game has to some extent suffered eclipse through the introduction of golf and croquet, some first-rate cricket is often played here. The sunny yet cool climate seems to breed enthusiasm lor sports and amusements of all kinds. A shallow gap on the mountain heights forms the exit from Nuwara Eliya on the Uva side. This gap leads to a lovely gorge, which extends to the foot of the majestic Hak- galla, where the clouds descend in saturating mist during the wet season. This is the most interesting drive in the neigh- bourhood. For five miles the descent is steep. The pre- cipitous crags have been cut away for the construction of the road, which in its winding course affords grand views of deep wooded ravines, covered with tree ferns in wonderful variety, and teeming with waterfalls. Beneath the rock, which in its form and outline is one of the notable things in Ceylon, nestle the Hakgalla Gardens. While these gardens are no less than 5,400 feet above the sea, this mighty crag towers above them to the height of a further 1,600 feet. Here is a spot famous for picnic breakfasts, usually discussed in an arbour with an unbroken view of the plains of Uva stretching far below. The gardens, beautiful in themselves, owe much to their situation, and are the seat of experiments in the acclimatisa- tion of plants from temperate lands outside the tropics and from the heights of other tropical countries. We are surprised at the number of trees and shrubs, and the variety of fruits and flowers that are rarely to be found in a tropical garden. In addition to acclimatisation, the all-important work of ex- tending and improving the various species of indigenous plants is carried on, in order that the natural resources of the country may be utilised to the best advantage. In this place of practical science agricultural theories arc translated into actual fact, and provide invaluable material for the enterprise and initiative of the colonist. 154. KANDAPOLA STATION 6,316 FEET ABOVE SEA LEVEL. 155. THE UDAPUSSELLAWA RAILWAY NEAR KANDAPOLA. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 167 Kandapola (12m. 33c). — Kandapola station, 6,316 feet Udapussei- above sea level, has the distinction of being situated at the highest elevation reached by the Ceylon Government Railway. Kandapola It marks the entrance into the planting district of Udapussel- t,3i6/iet lawa, which, although in the Central Province, is really part of the great mountain ledge popularly known as the Uva country, and is subject to the same conditions of climate as Haputale and Bandarawela which we have already described. So that in the wet season of Nuwara Eliya a drv and sunny climate is very near at hand, being easily accessible by a short railway journey. The line to Kandapola leaves Nuwara Eliya by the eastern gap, crosses the Barrack Plains, and winds up a steep incline, sharing the carriage road for the greater part of the distance. Brookside (16m. 45c). — Between Kandapola and Brook- Brookside side the line descends thirteen hundred feet in four miles. -t,9 s i/'<'' This station serves the estates around it, but has no special interest for the visitor. Ragalla (igm. 17c). — Ragalla is the terminus of this line. Ragalla Here there is a rest-house with the usual appointments, where $,*&/"* visitors can obtain food and lodging. Those who live upon the few tea estates that extend to the very edge of these highlands where the descent to the heated plains of the low country is abrupt and precipitous are fre- quently witnesses of atmospheric phenomena that are at once terrible and magnificent. The sun is shining upon the smiling gardens of tea at an elevation of five thousand feet from which the spectator sees the olive green patanas in soft and sym- metrical curves rolling away to the borders of the tender green paddy fields of the lower slopes. Away in the distance lies the Bintenne country with its undulated land of forest and jungle, the retreat of the elephant, leopard and bear, and stretching away in a blue haze to the sea coast. Deep violet shadows are playing upon the lower foothills in constantly changing forms as masses of cloud pass over them. Presently the vapours gather in dense masses enshrouding in semi-darkness one sequestered valley. Suddenly a streak of fire passes through the leaden sky, a faint rumbling reaches our ears, the darkened mass momentarily changes to a lurid glow only to appear more blackened by the flame. Then, as if a vast cistern were sud- denly perforated in a myriad places it simply " rains ramrods " for a quarter of an hour, the frequent flashes of vivid lightning affording the spectator a view of the deluge descending upon the little valley whose vegetation recovers from the bombard- ment almost as suddenly as it had been attacked, and thrives amazingly as the result; for although not very distant from the cool and bracing region from which it has been witnessed, that little dale is a veritable hothouse. 156. GANEWATTE STATION. CHAPTER IX THE NORTHERN LINE ITINERARY From Polgahawela Junction to Kankesanturai Northern Line Potuhera The Xorthern Line which branches off from the main line at Polgahawela affords the traveller every facility for visit- ing- the chief of Ceylon's antiquities, its oldest ruined city Anuradhapura ; it also renders easily accessible the interesting peninsula of Jaffna, until quite recently so isolated from the capital that communication was possible only by sea or a most uncomfortable three or four days' journey by cart road. But the interest of the visitor centres in the supreme attraction of Anuradhapura, whose remains are, as we shall see later, amongst the greatest wonders of the world. The itinerary from Colombo to Polgahawela has already been described, and we shall now proceed to the first station of the northern branch. Potuhera (7m. 53c). — It will be sufficiently evident that we are here again in the midst of tea, cacao, arecas, coconuts, paddy, betel, kurrakan, tamarinds, plantains, limes and sweet potatoes. We see them all flourishing in the native gardens, and especially the plantains, tons of which are daily despatched to distant markets. The village is a verv small one ; but boasts of a large number of ancient wihdres due to the circum- stance that Kurunegala, onlv six miles distant, became the seat of government after the final overthrow of Polonnaruwa in the earlv part of the fourteenth centurv. 16S THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY i6g Kurunegala (13m. 150.)- — Kurunegala is now the capital of the North Western Province, and the centre of an important agricultural district, which has during the last twenty years risen by leaps and bounds to a condition of great prosperity. Not only has the capitalist greatly extended the cultivation of coconuts where a few vears ago all was jungle inhabited only by the elephant; but the villager, stimulated bv example and the encouragement of a paternal government, has awakened to the prolific possibilities of his higher lands, and has added other products to his hitherto exclusive paddy cultivation. The result is not only a great increase of wealth ; but a decided improvement in health also; for Kurunegala was not many years ago dreaded for its own special type of malarial fever that almost alwavs attacked the new-comer and which greatly distressed the natives during the dry weather immediately following on the rains, when vegetation rotted in the swamps. Now that so much of the country has been cleared of its rank- vegetation for cultivation great improvement is manifest, and it is hoped that in course of time Kurunegala fever will be unknown. The town, which has a population of about 7,000, is beautifullv situated and possesses an ornamental lake of about one hundred acres. The fine residence of the Govern- ment Agent, still known as the Maligawa (palace), is on the site of the ancient roval palace. A few years ago its grounds were strewn with remains of the original building ; but the most interesting of them have now been deposited in the Colombo museum. The natural features of Kurunegala are extremely pii - turesque, and possess some characteristics that are peculiar. Behind the town there stretches for some miles a series of enormous rocks rising to upwards of eight hundred feet from the plain. Thev are eight in number, and six of them bear distinctive names of animals which their curious shapes have been supposed to represent. These are the Elephant, Tortoise, Beetle, Eel, Goat and Crocodile. There are also two others known as the Gonigala or Sack Rock, and the Yakdessagala or She-demon's Curse; the latter rising to 1,712 feet above sea level. These rocks doubtless influence in some degree the tempera- ture of the air at Kurunegala; but less than is generally supposed. The heat is very much the same as at Colombo, averaging 8o° Eahr. The most interesting of the rocks may be climbed, and the reward is commensurate with the effort demanded, the surrounding country exhibiting its tropical flora to better advantage than when seen from the greater heights. On the Tortoise Rock (Ibbagala), which is approached from the Kachcheri within the town, there is an interesting- temple situated beneath an overhanging ledge ; a portion of the rock Northern Line 157. KURUNEGALA VIEW FROM THE ELEPHANT ROCK. 158. KURUNEGALA: ELEPHANT ROCK FROM THE LAKE. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 171 does duty as the roof and is gorgeously painted with the Buddhist conventional portraits, flowers, and various other designs. The temple contains a large number of images of the Buddha and his disciples. In the precincts are a dagaba and a copy of the impression of Buddha's footprint upon Adam's Peak. The Elephant Rock (Etagala), which adjoins the Tortoise, is the favourite resort of visitors and residents alike. It affords delightful views of the town, the lake and the more distant country. Wellawa (19m. 18c). — At Wellawa the aspect of the country already begins to change, and products that we have not hitherto met with are noticed ; amongst them tobacco and hemp. The village of about 1,500 inhabitants is under a Ratemahatmaya who pays a monthly visit of inspection, while minor judicial causes are dealt with by a Gansabawa president at fortnightly sessions. The landscape is enriched by the Yakdessagala, to which we have referred, and Dolukanda peak. Fair sport in snipe, deer and hare may be obtained. The neat little railway station of two stories, with its flower garden extending along the platform, will be noticed. Ganewatte (26m. 39c). — As we approach Ganewatte the little paddy farms, which have been observed amongst the greater stretches of waste land covered with natural jungle, gradually become fewer, and it is evident that we are enter- ing- a sparsely populated region. There is a rest-house at Hiripitiya, about a mile from the station, which is useful to the sportsman. It is, however, necessary to order provisions in advance or take them. For about twelve miles from Ganewatte the country on either side of the railway appears to be waterless and uncul- tivated, until about four miles from Maho a large pond is passed. Here the signs of life are storks and water fowl. Paddy fields again appear, and cart roads are in evidence on both sides of the line suggesting a centre of some importance amongst the wilds. Maho (40m. 3c). — The railway here brings within easy reach of the antiquarian the remains of another royal city, Yapahuwa, which is situated about three miles from Maho station. Yapahuwa was the retreat of the reigning sovereign Bhuvaneka Bahu I. after the downfall of Polonnaruwa, and remained the capital for eleven years from 1303. The most interesting of the remains have been removed to the Colombo museum, and amongst them a stone window with forty-five circular perforations within which arc sculptured symbols and figures of dancers and animals, the whole being carved out of a single slab of granite. It shows the great artistic skill of the period and gives a clue to the lavish architectural Northern Line Wellawa Ganewatte i-2 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Northern decoration employed in beautifying the city, notwithstanding the Llne troublous times. But Yapahuwa soon met with a fate even worse than Polonnaruwa ; for the Pandvan invaders not only overthrew it, but captured and carried off to India the national palladium, the tooth of Buddha. Travellers can obtain single or double bullock carts at Maho at very moderate rates of hire. The only accommodation in the neighbourhood is the rest-house at Balalla about three miles distant. It is necessary to take what food may be required or order it in advance. The climate being exceedingly hot a plentiful supply of aerated waters should also be taken as the water of the district is not to be trusted. Ambanpola Ambanpola (47m. 2ic). — As we approach Ambanpola the dense scrub gives place to more open country and the forest trees become finer. Upon reaching the river Miova over which we pass upon approaching Galgamuwa some excellent timber will be noticed, indicating increased fertility due to a more ample supplv of water. But upon proceeding further north we are soon again in stunted scrub which renders the journey monotonous as compared with our experiences on the railways further south. Galgamuwa Galgamuwa (53m. 40c). — The country around Galgamuwa abounds in artificial lakes or tanks constructed for purposes of irrigation, one of which will be noticed quite close to the station from which the water supply for our engine is obtained. By means of these tanks a considerable acreage of land is brought under cultivation ; the products are, however, quite different from those with which we are already familiar, the chief of them being gingelly, chillies, kurrakan, gram and cotton. There arc eighteen irrigation tanks in the neighbour- hood, around and about which birds are plentiful; snipe, golden plover and teal affording good sport. Large game too abounds in the forest, including leopard, deer, pig, elephant, and bear. There is a rest-house within a mile of the station where the traveller will find the usual accommodation. Provisions should be taken or ordered in advance. Taiawa Tai.awa (71m. 75c). — Talawa has no special interest for the visitor, and no accommodation beyond that afforded by the railway station. Its possibilities in the direction of cotton cul- ture are being put to the test by the government, who have established an experimental station not far from here. Anuradhapura AnuradhApura (81m. 2ic). — Anunidhapura is the capital of the North Central Province and the seat of a Government Agent ; but beyond this it is a place of supreme interest to the visitor and is consequently provided with considerable accommodation for the traveller. The hotel is fairly spacious and very comfortable, but it cannot be said that the accommo- dation is sufficient at all times, and it is very necessary for the ANUR ADHA PURA Map showing the positions of the Principal Ruins. Pavilions witli Moonstones ^^. and sculptured flights of steps 174 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Northern intending- visitor to secure rooms before proceeding- on the Line journey to Anuradhapura. Professional guides and convey- ances may be obtained. The city is on a level plain, about three hundred feet above the sea, and possesses a warm but not uncomfortable climate, the mean temperature being 8o° Fahr. The rains extend from October to December. January is often a Aery pleasant month, but liable to showers. February is generally most pleasant, while March and April are rather warmer. Fine weather and wind characterise the months of July and August. But the weather seldom interferes with the visitor, as even in the wet season fine intervals are frequent and enjoyable. Before entering upon a description of the many wonders of Anuradhapura it should be stated that from July, 1910, the Government Railway Department are inaugurating a motor mail service from Anuradhapura to Trincomalee, sixty-five miles distant. For those who do not care to go to the expense of hiring a private motor car for the circular trip mentioned on pages 122-124, a tr 'P by the mail coach to Trincomalee is strongly urged. Thereby at a reasonable cost a delightful experience of one of the most charming real jungle roads (on which one may possibly light upon an unwary leopard or wild boar) in the island will be obtained, whilst in Trincomalee one of the most lovely of natural harbours in the world will be discovered. (See also description of Trincomalee on p. 124.) i'iu- story ,^ The account of Anuradhapura given in these pages is in- tended mainly to excite the interest of the traveller or to quicken that which has already been aroused before he pro- ceeds to make a personal acquaintance with the ruins. It is mainly extracted from the author's previous work upon the subject. * It is a great thing that the period of the erection of the buildings whose remains now stand before us falls within the domain of authentic history. Not a single building or sculptured stone has been found that docs not come within this period, and it is remarkable that in India no relic of ancient architecture has been discovered of a date anterior to that of the ruined cities of Ceylon, while the history of the latter is infinitely clearer and more reliable than that of the adjoining continent, a circumstance due to the careful pre- servation by the Sinhalese of the olas on which the events of verv earlv times were inscribed. lle Mihintale first claims our attention because here began the Buddhist influence, the efficient cause of all the constructive energy which the Sinhalese displayed in the erection of their vast cities and monuments. Eight miles to the east of the *" Ruined Cities of Ceylon," by Henry W. Cave, M.A., F.R.G.S., M.R.A.S. 4th Edition. Hutchinson & Co., London, 1907. th 159. THE MAHA SEYA. 160. ROCK DWELLINGS. 176 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Mihintale sacred part of the city of Anuradhapura the rocky mountain, now called Mihintale, rises abruptly from the plain to the height ol a thousand feet. Its slopes are now covered with dense forest from the base almost to the summit, with the exception of the space occupied bv a grand stairway of granite slabs which lead from the level plain to the highest peak. These steps, one thousand eight hundred and forty in number, render easy an ascent which must have been originally very toilsome. They are laid on the eastern side, which is the least steep, the southern face being almost precipitous. The last hundred and fifty steps are hewn in the solid rock, and at the top is visible the north-east side of the ruined Etwehera dagaba. At first sight the landscape conveys only the impression of a natural hill with precipitous sides covered with vegetation, and were not curiosity aroused bv the flight of steps, the dagaba might easily escape notice. A closer examination, however, reveals the existence of the ruined edifice that crowns the summit of the mountain. Near it there are other dagabas of great size. One, called the Maha Seya (see Plate 159), is placed in a position whence grand views of the surrounding country are obtained. The summit of this can be reached by the adventurous climber, and the exertion, if not the danger, is well repaid bv the striking spectacle of the ruined shrines of Anuradhapura rising above a sea of foliage, and the glistening waters of the ancient artificial lakes relieving the immense stretches of forest. For twenty centuries this mass of brickwork defied the destructive tooth of time and the dis- integrating forces of vegetable growth ; but a tew years ago it showed signs of collapse on the west face, and underwent some repairs bv the Ceylon Government. Our illustration presents a near view from the south, showing the portion cleared of vegetation and repaired. Some idea of the proportion of this dagaba may be gathered by noticing that what appears to be grass upon the upper portion of the structure is in reality a mass of forest trees that have grown up from seeds dropped by birds. The whole mountain is literally covered with interesting remains sacred to the memory of Mahinda, the royal apostle of Buddha in Ceylon. In the solid granite of the steeper slopes were engraved the instructions for the priests, dealing with every detail of their life and every item of ceremonial observance. inscription* These inscriptions, which are still legible, tell us that none who destroyed life in any way were permitted to live near the mountain ; special offices were allotted to various servants and workmen ; accounts were to be strictly kept and examined at an assembly of priests ; certain allowances of money to every THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 177 person engaged in the temple service were made for the Mihintale purchase of flowers, so that none might appear without an offering ; cells arc assigned to the readers, expounders, and preachers; hours of rising, of meditation, and of ablution are prescribed ; careful attention to food and diet for the sick is enjoined ; there arc instructions to servants of every kind, warders, receivers of revenue, clerks, watchmen, physicians, surgeons, laundrymen, and others, the minuteness of detail giving an excellent idea of the completeness of arrangement for the orderly and beautiful keeping of the venerated locality. Amongst other interesting remains on the mountain is the jY "a'" Pahwa Xaga Pokuna or snake bathing pool. This is hewn out of the solid rock, and is one hundred and thirty feet in length and of extremely picturesque appearance. On the rock which over- hangs one side of the pool is an immense five-hooded cobra carved in high relief. Having regard to the role of protector assigned to the cobra in the ancient legend, this monster, with his hood spreading fully six feet across, doubtless possessed prophylactic virtues, which were assisted by the ceremonial ablutions for which this weird and mysterious looking bath was constructed. Amongst the best preserved relics is the Ambastala Dagaba which enshrines the ashes of Mahinda, who ended his days on the spot where his successful mission began. The shrine marks, it is said, the very piece of ground where the first meeting of the monarch Tissa and the royal missionary took place. It is built of stone instead of the usual brick, and is surrounded by fifty slender octagonal pillars with sculptured capitals. We have exhausted all the space that can here be devoted to Mihintale ; but the enthusiastic student of antiquities might spend weeks in exploring the very numerous remains upon this mountain, which at present has not been dealt with by the Archaeological Commission. The road from Anuradhapura is good, and the rest-house affords comfortable accommodation. At Anuradhapura we shall see the remains of many build- Anuradhapura ings which were erected by Tissa as a result of his conversion. These will be found in that part of the city which was at the time of Mahinda's visit the Mahamega, or king's pleasure garden. The tradition is that the report of Bimbisara, king of Magadha, having presented his own pleasure garden to Buddha and of its being accepted by him for the use of the priests had reached the cars of Tissa, and in imitation of this pious example he dedicated the Mahamega to sacred purposes. This garden of twenty square miles in extent was in the centre of the royal city. The gilt was important, as signifying the royal protection extended to the new religion, and like all matters of special interest it received much attention from the M 178 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 161. THE MAHAMEGA, OR KING'S PLEASURE GARDEN may be seen by the following extract Dedication of the Maliamega Anuradhapura ancient chronicler, as from the Mahawansa : — " In the morning-, notice having- been previously given by beat of drums, the celebrated capital, the road to 'the them's (chief priest's) residence, and the residence itself on all sides, having- been decorated, the lord of chariots, decked in all the insignia of royalty, seated in his chariot, attended by his ministers and the women of the palace, and escorted by the martial array of his realm, repaired to the temple constructed by himself, accompanied by this great procession. "There, having approached the theras worthy of venera- tion and bowed down to them, proceeding together with the theras to the upper ferry of the river, he made his progress, ploughing the ground with a golden plough to mark the limits for the consecration. The superb state elephants, Mahapaduma and Kunjara, were harnessed to the golden plough. Beginning at the first Kuntamalaka, this monarch, sole ruler of the people^ accompanied by the theras, and attended by the four con- stituent hosts of his military array, himself held the half of the plough. " Surrounded by exquisitely painted vases, carried in pro- HE CEVLON 1 GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 179 PHOTOGRAPHED FROM THE TOP OF THE ABHAYAGIRIYA DAGABA. Dedkatici of the Mahaiatr, cession, and gorgeous flags; trays containing sandal dust; Anuradhapura mirrors with gold and silver handles; baskets borne down by the weight of flowers ; triumphal arches made of plantain trees, and females holding up umbrellas and other decora- tions; excited by the symphony of every kind of music; encompassed by the martial might of his empire ; overwhelmed by the shouts of gratitude and festivity which welcomed him from the four quarters of the earth; — this lord of the land made his progress, ploughing and exhibiting furrows, amidst enthusiastic acclamations, hundreds of waving handkerchiefs, and the exultations produced by the presentation of superb offerings. "The eminent saint, the Mahathera, distinctly fixed the points defining the boundary, as marked by the furrows made by the king's plough. Having fixed the position for the erection of thirty-two sacred edifices, as well as the Thuparama dagaba, and having, according to the forms already observed, defined the inner boundaries thereof, this sanctified person on that same day completed the definition of all the boundary lines. At the completion of the junction of the sacred boundary line the earth quaked." 180 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Anuradhapuri Having thus dedicated the royal precincts of the city to religious purposes, Tissa's next object was to hallow them by the presence of a relic of the Buddha himself. It is not within our present purpose to quote the legends that embellish the history contained in the ancient Sinhalese writings, and we must pass on to the shrine itself, built by Tissa about the year B.C. 307. The Thuparama We accept as authentic the statement that the Thuparama was the first of the large shrines built upon this sacred ground, and that it was erected by King Tissa to enshrine a true relic. This monument is in itself evidence of the remarkable skill of architect, builder, and sculptor in Ceylon at a period anterior to that of any existing monument on the mainland. The upper portion of the structure has been renovated by the devotees of modern times, but the carvings and other work of the lower portion remain untouched. All the Ceylon dagabas are of this bell shape, but their circumference varies from a few feet to over eleven hundred, some of them containing enough masonry to build a town for twenty-five thousand inhabitants. The Thuparama is small compared with many of them, the diameter of the bell being about forty feet and its height about sixty. The most attractive feature of the dagaba is the arrange- ment of ornamental pillars on the platform. A large number, as may be seen by a glance at our illustration (Plate i6ia), are still erect. They are all slender monoliths of elegant proportions. The carvings of the capitals are singularly beau- tiful ; they contain folial ornaments as well as grotesque figure- sculptures, and are fringed to a depth of more than a foot with tassels depending from the mouths of curious masks. These pillars are placed in four concentric circles, and decrease in height as the circles expand, the innermost being twenty-three feet and those of the outside circle fourteen feet high. There has been a great deal of speculation as to the possible structural use of these pillars. It is very likely that they served some purpose besides that of mere ornament, but what that was we are hardly likely now to discover, as no allusion is made to them in any of the ancient chronicles. Of the original one hundred and seventy-six pillars only thirty-one remain now standing entire with their capitals. The interesting ruins of the Dalacki Maligawa, or Palace of the Tooth, are within the original outer wall of the Thuparama enclosure. This palace was built for the reception of Buddha's tooth upon its arrival in Ceylon in a.d. 311. ^Ye pass now to a relic which has perhaps attracted more attention than any other — the sacred bo tree. The royal con- vert, King Tissa, having succeeded in obtaining a branch of Tile Sacra! Ho Tree 161a. birds eye view of the thuparama. 162. THE SACRED BO TREE. 163. THE ISURUMUNIYA ROCK TEMPLE. 164. SCULPTURED TABLET AT ISURUMUNIYA. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 183 the fig tree under which the Buddha had been wont to sit in Anuradhapura meditation, planted it at Anuradhapura, and it is now the venerable tree which we see still flourishing after more than twenty centuries. Its offspring have formed a grove which overshadows the ruins of the once beautiful court and the tiers of sculptured terraces which were built around it. All that is left of the magnificent entrance to the enclosure is seen in our picture (Plate 162) — a few bare monoliths and the two janitors still at their post. The history of the venerable tree recounts with great exactness the functions held in its honour, together with reliable information on matters connected with its careful preservation and the adoration bestowed upon it. That it escaped destruction by the enemies of Buddhism throughout many invasions is perhaps attributable to the fact that the same species is held in veneration by the Hindus who, while destroying its surrounding monuments, would have spared the tree itself. Another very ancient and interesting foundation attributed hurummiya to King Tissa is the Isurumuniya Temple. This curious build- ing, carved out of the natural rock, occupies a romantic position. Before and behind lie large lotus ponds on whose banks huge crocodiles may occasionally be seen. We may easily photograph them from a distance by means of a telescope lens, but they object to be taken at short range. We may approach them with a hand camera, but immediately it is pre- sented to them they dart into the water at lightning speed. These ponds are surrounded by woodland scenery which presents many an artistic feature ; but we must here be content with a near view of the temple itself. To the right of the entrance will be noticed a large pokuna or bath. This has been restored and is quite fit for its original purpose of cere- monial ablution, but the monks now resident have placed it at the disposal of the crocodiles, whom they encourage by pro- viding them with food. The modern entrance to the shrine, with its tiled roof, is in shocking contrast to the rock-building, and unfortunately this is the case with all the ancient rock-temples of the island. The terraces which lead to the shrine are interesting for their remarkable frescoes and sculptures in bas-relief. There are more than twenty of these in the walls, and all of them are exceedingly grotesque. In addition to the tablets, the natural rock was frescoed in high relief, and although many of the figures have become hardly discernible, owing to the action of the climate during so many centuries, others are still clearly defined. Above the corner of the bath are the heads of four elephants, and above them is a sitting figure holding a horse. Similarly there are 1 84 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Anuradhapura quaint carvings in many other parts. The doorway is mag- nificent, and for beautiful carving almost equals anything to be found in Ceylon. There is nothing of special interest about the shrine. It has a figure of Buddha carved out of the solid rock, but the rest of it has been decorated quite recently, and, like the entrance porch, seems out of harmony with the spirit of the place. There are many more remains of this period in Anuradha- pura, but we shall now pass on to the Brazen Palace, a building of somewhat later date — the end of the second century B.C. In the interval between Tissa's death and the building of the Brazen Palace by Dutthagamini, a large number of monas- teries were erected and the community of monks greatly in- creased. But even so early as this after the foundation of the sacred city trouble came in the form of invasion from Southern //,! ' VI India. For some years the Tamils held the upper hand, Elara, one of their princes, usurped the Sinhalese throne, and the Buddhist cause was in danger of complete annihilation, when the Sinhalese king Dutthagamini, stirred by religious enthu- siasm, made a desperate stand and recovered his throne. The story of the final combat is worthy of our notice as showing the character of the man who erected the most wonderful of the Anuradhapura monuments. It was in b.c 164 that Dutthagamini, having grown weary of the protracted struggles of his arm)' which for some years he had led with varying fortune against Elara, challenged that The duel prince to single combat. Having given orders that no other person should assail Elara, he mounted his favourite war elephant, Kandula, and advanced to meet his adversary. Elara hurled the first spear, which Dutthagamini successfully evaded and at once made his own elephant charge with his tusks the elephant of his opponent. After a desperate struggle Elara and his elephant fell together. Then followed an act of chivalry on the part of Dutthaga- mini so remarkable that it has been regarded with admiration for twenty centuries. He caused Elara to be cremated on the Death , y Mara s P ot where he fell, and there built a tomb. He further ordained that the tomb should receive honours, and that no one should pass it without some mark of reverence ; and even to this day these injunctions are to some extent respected, and the tomb is still marked by a huge mound. With the death of Elara the power of the invaders was broken, and the heroic Dutthagamini restored to the country those conditions of peace and prosperity under which Tissa had been enabled to inaugurate the religious foundations already referred to. To the further development of these he now applied himself. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 185 The community of monks had enormously increased with the popularity of the new religion, and Dutthagamini made t/w Brazen their welfare his chiefest care, erecting the Loha Pasada, J-ai,nc known as the Brazen Palace, for their accommodation. This remarkable building rested qn sixteen hundred monolithic columns of granite, which are all that now remain ; their original decoration has disappeared, and we see only that part of them which has defied both time and a whole series of heretic invaders. The basement or setting of this crowd of hoary relics is buried deep in earth that has been for centuries accumu- lating over the marble floors of the once resplendent halls, and all that is left to us are these pillars partially entombed, but still standing about twelve feet out of the ground (see Plate 165). The history of this wonderful edifice is fully dealt with in the native chronicles, whose accuracy as to the main features is attested in many ways, and not least by the "world of stone columns " that remain. The following description is taken from the Mahawansa, and was probably written about the fifth century a.d. from records preserved in the monasteries : — " This palace was one hundred cubits square and of the same height. In it there were nine stories, and in each of them one hundred apartments. All these apartments were highly finished with silver ; and the cornices thereof were em- bellished with gems. The flower-ornaments thereof were also set with gems, and the tinkling festoons were of gold. In this palace there were a thousand dormitories having windows with ornaments which were bright as eyes. " The palace did not long remain as originally constructed by Dutthagamini. In the reign of Sadhatissa, about B.C. 140, the number of stories was reduced to seven ; and again, about two centuries later, to five. Its history has been marked by many vicissitudes, generally involving the destruction of some of its upper stories. These attacks on the wonderful edifice were not always due to the iconoclastic zeal of Brahman invaders, but to a serious diyision in the ranks of the Buddhists themselves. About the year B.C. 90 a question arose as to the authority of certain doctrines which one party wished to be included in the canon. The proposal was regarded as an innovation and strenuously opposed by the orthodox fraternity, with the result that those who adhered to the innovation formed themselves into a rival body known as the Abhayagiriya. Hence the great Brazen Palace, which had originally been the residence of the highest ascetics, was dependent for its preservation on the varying fortunes of its orthodox inhabitants. This division, which marred the unity of Buddhism in Ceylon for fourteen centuries, was perhaps at the height of its bitterness when 186 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Anuradhapura Maha Sen came to the throne at the beginning of the third century. He adopted the heresy above referred to and pulled down the Brazen Palace in order to enrich the rival monastery with its treasures. This apostate king, however, afterwards recanted, and in his penitence he restored the palace once more to its ancient splendour, and rebuilt all the other monasteries that he had destroyed. From the nature of its construction as well as the intrinsic value of its decorative materials, the Brazen Palace has always been more exposed to spoliation than the shrines and other buildings whose colossal proportions astonish us as we wander through the sacred city. A more enduring and not less remarkable piece of the work of Dutthagamini has come down to us. The new religion had filled its votaries with almost superhuman energy, and only the verv hills themselves could compare with the buildings which were the outward expression of their devotion. Foundations were laid to the depth of one hundred feet and composed of layers of crystallised stone and plates of iron and copper alter- nately placed and cemented ; and upon such bases were piled millions of tons of masonry. t/ic Ruaimidi We see the remains of one of these stupendous edifices in the Ruanweli or Gold-dust Dagaba. Its present appearance from a distance, from which our picture is taken, is that of a conical shaped hill nearly two hundred feet high, covered with trees and surmounted by a tiny spire. It is, however, a mass of solid brickwork (see Plates 166 and 167). Time and the frequent attacks of enemies have to a great extent obliterated the original design, but there is sufficient of the structure still remaining to verify the accounts of the ancient writers who have transmitted to us full details of the building as it was erected in the second century B.C. We should not readily believe these accounts without the evidence of the ruins. It is as well, therefore, to see what remains before we glance at the first written story of the dagaba. The ruins of the eastern portico in the foreground of the picture at once suggest an entrance of stately proportions. The pillars are arranged in six parallel rows so that wooden beams might be laid upon them longitudinally and transversely for the support of the ornamental open roof which was un- doubtedly there. The boldly sculptured lions of the left front give a clue to the style of ornament adopted. Upon traversing the passage, which we notice is sufficiently large to admit elephants, we arrive at an extensive court or platform nearly one hundred feet wide and extending round the whole dagaba. This is the path used for processions in which a large number of elephants frequently took part. From this rises another immense square platform measuring about 165. THE LOHA PASADA OR BRAZEN PALACE. 166. THE RUANWELI DAGABA. 167. THE RUANWELI SHOWING THE EXCAVATION OF THE ELEPHANT WALL. 168. MINIATURE DAGABA ON THE PLATFORM OF THE RUANWELI. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 189 five hundred feet each way and made to appear as if supported Anuradhapura by about four hundred elephants. These elephants form the retaining- wall ; they were modelled in brickwork and placed less than two feet apart ; only their heads and fore legs appear ; their height is about nine feet. Although all that have been excavated are in a terribly dilapidated condition (see Plate 167), there are still evidences here and there of the original treatment and finish. We learn from the native records that they were all coated with the hard and durable white enamel, chunam, and that each had ivory tusks. In protected places portions of the original surface still remain, and the holes in the jaws where the tusks were inserted are still visible. There are also traces of ornamental trappings which were executed in bold relief ; they differ considerably on each elephant, suggesting great ingenuity on the part of the modellers. These two platforms form the foundation constructed to sustain the ponderous mass of the solid brick shrine which was built upon it to the height of two hundred and seventy feet, with an equal diameter at the base of the dome. The upper platform from which the dagaba rises covers an area of about five acres, and is paved with stone slabs ; these share the general ruin, due more to ruthless destruction than the ravages of time. We notice that repairs have been effected by fragments of stone taken from other fine buildings ; for there are doorsteps, altar slabs, carved stones, of all shapes and sizes, some incised with curious devices of evident antiquity, and even huge monoliths from the thresholds of other buildings have been dragged hither to supply the destroyed portions of the original paving. The objects of interest surrounding the dagaba are very numerous. There are four ornamental altars, and various parts belonging to them scattered everywhere : carved panels, pedestals, scrolls, capitals, friezes, stone tables, elephants' heads, great statues of Buddhas and kings. Our illustration (Plate 168) shows how formidable is the business of excavation. The platforms had been buried to the depth shown by the heaps of earth that still surround them and hide the greater portion of the elephant wall. The same features are observable in the illustration which faces this page. Here upon the platform we notice in its original position a miniature dagaba, of which there were probably many placed around the great shrine as votive offerings. This specimen with the platform below it is composed of a ponderous mono- lith, and does not appear to have been disturbed. In the far distance is a statue with a pillar of stone at the back of it. This is said to be a statue in dolomite of King; i go THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Anuradhapura Batiya Tissa I., who came to the throne B.C. ly. It is eight feet high, much weather-worn, and full of fractures. Near it are four other statues placed with their backs to statues the dagaba, three of them representing Buddhas, and the fourth King Dutthagamini. They originally stood in the recesses of a building on the platform, and were dug out during the excavations. They are all sculptured in dolomite ; the folds of the priestly robes with their sharp and shallow flutings are very beautifully executed. They were probably once embellished with jewels, the pupils of the eyes consisting of precious stones, and the whole figures being coloured in exact imitation of life. The figure on the extreme left is said to be that of the king, who is wonderfully preserved considering his great antiquity. The statue is ten feet high, and must have looked very im- posing in its original state, the jewelled collars being gilt, and their pearls and gems coloured and polished ; even now the leatures wear a pleasant expression. The hall where these figures were unearthed was probably built specially for their reception. It is close to their present position, and its threshold is marked by a plain moonstone. inscription oj Within a lew yards of the statues stands a very fine slab engraved in old Sinhalese characters. This seems to have formed part of the wall at the side of the porch of the hall, and it is still erect between two of the original pillars, being very firmly fixed in a bed of brickwork. The engraved face would thus have been inside the portico. Its date is the latter part of the twelfth century, and it gives some account of various good deeds of the King Kirti Nissanka, who was famous for his attention to the repair and maintenance of religious edifices. After reciting that he " decorated the city like a city of the gods," it ends with an appeal to future princes to protect and preserve the wihdres, the people, and the religion. To give a complete description of the Ruanweli dagaba and of the numerous ruined halls, altars and monuments that form part of or are connected with it would fill a volume at least as large as the present. We must, however, remark briefly on a lew more points of special interest. The three terraces or pasadas round the base of the bell are about seven feet wide, and were used as ambulatories by the worshippers. The uppermost terrace is ornamented with fore- quarters of kneeling elephants to the number of about one hundred and fifty. These are placed on the outer edge at regu- lar intervals all round the dagaba. From the terraces the great hemispherical mass of brickwork was carried to the height of two hundred and seventy feet, including the tee or small spire. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 191 Its present appearance, as may be seen in plate 167, is a Anuradhapura shapeless mound covered with trees sprung from stray seeds ; but beneath those trees are the millions of bricks which were carefully and religiously laid two thousand years ago. The lower part of the bell has been restored to some extent by pious pilgrims who have from time to time expended con- siderable sums of money upon it ; but the race that could make these immense shrines what they once were has vanished, and with it the conditions which rendered such works possible. The principal ornaments of the dagaba were the chapels or altars at the four cardinal points. All these are in a very ruinous condition, portions of the friezes carved in quaint designs being strewn about, as also are railings, mouldings, brackets, vases, and sculptures of various kinds. One of these structures, however, has been restored as far as possible from the fragments found lying about at the time of its excavation There are traces here and there of enamel and colour, especially upon the figure subjects, and it is supposed from this that the whole surface of the altars was covered with that wonderfully durable white chunam, and that they were made attractive to the native eye by the gaudy colouring of the figures and cornices. In addition to the interesting architectural features of the shrine there are numerous inscriptions in old Sinhalese charac- ters, relating to grants of land and other matters connected with the dagaba. Each of several succeeding kings added something to the decoration, and erected more buildings in the precincts of the great shrine. It is recorded of King Batiya Tissa, who reigned between 19 B.C. and 9 a.d. , and whose statue near the dagaba we have already noticed, that on one occasion he festooned the dagaba with jessamine from pedestal to pinnacle ; and on another he literally buried it in a heap of flowers, which he kept watered by means of machinery constructed for the pur- pose. Another king is said to have placed a diamond hoop upon the spire. Great wealth was lavished on the structure for many years after its erection. In later times, when the enemies of Buddhism obtained possession of the city, the great dagaba suffered severely ; on many occasions it was partially destroyed, and again restored when the power of the Sinhalese was temporarily in the ascendant. The last attempt to destroy it is said to have taken place in the thirteenth century. After our somewhat protracted examination of the Ruanweli, Tin we pass from its precincts into one of the open stretches of park-like land that have been reclaimed from forest and jungle. The gardens that were once an especially beautiful feature of the landscape ig2 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Anuradhapura the ancient city were but a few years ago overgrown with trees, and dense thicket had veiled every vestige of brick and stone. Recent clearings have, however, disclosed numberless remains which form a unique feature in the landscape. Clusters of pillars with exquisitely carved capitals, as perfect as if they had recently left the hands of the sculptor, appear interspersed with the groups of trees that have been spared for picturesque effect. Here and there numbers of carved monoliths are lying prostrate, bearing evidence of wilful destruction. As we wander through one of these charming glades we are attracted especially by the group of pillars illustrated in plate 169. In almost every instance of such groups the ornamental wings on the landing at the top of the steps are exposed, although the steps and mouldings of the bases are buried in earth. In the illustration here given it will be noticed that these wing-stones, covered with makara and scroll, vie with the carved capitals in their excellent preservation ; the fabulous monster forming the upper portion and the lion on the side are still perfect in every particular. It is probable that these buildings consisted of an entrance hall and a shrine, that they were, in fact, the image houses of the wih&res. /■„/■„„„., Another very interesting feature of the cleared spaces is the large number of stone-built baths or tanks, called pokunas. There are so many, and they vary so much in architectural treatment, that they must have added greatly to the beautiful aspect of the city. The specimen illustrated in our plate has been restored, and gives a good idea of the original appearance, although much of the ornamental portion is missing. It will be noticed that on one side there is a stone- paved terrace, within which is an inner bath. This inner bath was doubtless sheltered by a roof supported upon stone pillars, of which there are several fractured pieces and socket holes remaining. The inner bath leads into a chamber like the opposite one visible in the picture. The walls of these chambers are beautifully worked single stones, and the tops are covered by enormous slabs of a similar kind, measuring twelve by seven feet. TheK-uttam. The most interesting example yet discovered is the Kuttam- poknna pokuna or Twin-bath (see Plate 171). This consists of a couple of tanks placed end to end, measuring in all about two hundred and twenty by fifty feet. The left side of the picture serves to show the condition in which the baths were when discovered, but on the right we see that some considerable restoration has been effected. The materials are generally found quite com- plete, although dislodged and out of place. Our photograph was taken in January, before the end of the rainy season, and in consequence the tank appears too full 169. REMAINS OF IMAGE HOUSES. 170. A POKUNA. 171. THE KUTTAM-POKUNA. 172. THE ABHAYAGIRIYA DAGABA. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 195 of water to admit of the structure being seen at any consider- Anuradhapura able depth, and some verbal description is therefore necessary. The sides are built in projecting tiers of large granite blocks so planned as to form terraces all round the tank at various depths, the maximum depth being about twenty feet. Hand- some flights of steps descend to the terraces, some of them having carved scrolls on the wings. The bold mouldings of the parapet give an exceedingly fine effect to the sides. There are signs of rich carvings in many parts of the structure, but every portion is too much defaced to trace the designs. There is something very weird about these remnants of ancient luxury hidden in the lonely forest. In the dry season of the year, when the ruined terraces of the Kuttam-pokuna can be seen to the depth of sixteen feet, this scene is one of the most impressive in Anuradhapura. We cannot help reflecting, too, that the famous baths of the Roman emperors were constructed contemporaneously with these, and that while those of Caracalla and Diocletian, being built of brick, have crumbled now beyond repair, the pic- turesque and elegant baths of Dutthagamini, with their beautiful terraces and stairways of granite, can with little trouble be restored to their pristine condition. It is impossible to arrive at the exact purpose of the various forms of baths found at Anuradhapura. Some were doubtless attached to the monasteries and used exclusively for ceremonial ablutions ; some were private baths of the royal family ; others were possibly for public use, and many served as receptacles of the drinking water of the inhabitants. All of them were fed from artificial lakes outside the city. We have already referred to the usurpation of the throne King of Ceylon by the Tamil invader, Elara, and to the combat with Dutthagamini, which resulted in the defeat and death of the Mhayagmya usurper. Strange as it may appear, the victor, who had merely regained his birthright, was constrained to make atonement for bloodshed as well as the natural thank-offering for his victory, and to this we owe the building of the great monastery of the Brazen Palace and the Ruanweli dagaba. We find a curious repetition of history in the occurrences that took place about thirty vears after his death, when the old encmv again got the upper hand. The king, Walagambahu, was deposed, and the usurper, Pulahatta, assumed the sovereignty. Fifteen more years of alien rule ensued, during which no less than four of the usurpers were murdered by their successor, until Walagambahu vanquished the fifth, Dathiya. He then pro- ceeded to raise a monastery and shrine that should eclipse in magnitude those constructed by Dutthagamini under similar circumstances. H'alazambaJiu and the The . [bhayetgiriya 196 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Anuradhapura The buildings of the monastery have vanished, save only the boundary walls and the stumps of its pillars, which are found in large numbers; but the Abhayagiriya dagaba (Plate 172), of its kind the greatest monument in the world, has defied all the forces of destruction, both of man and nature, and although abandoned for many centuries, during which it re- ceived its vesture of forest, there is still a very large proportion of the original building left. The native annals give as the measurement of the Abhayagiriya a height of four hundred and five feet, or fifty feet higher than St. Paul's Cathedral, with three hundred and sixty feet as the diameter of the dome. The height is now greatly reduced, but the base covers about eight acres, and sufficiently attests the enormous size of its super- structure. The lower part of the dome is buried under the debris of bricks which must have been hurled from above in infidel attempts at destruction. Beneath this mass the remains of the numerous edifices, altars, and statues, which surrounded the dagaba, are for the most part concealed, but excavations at various periods have disclosed some ruins of considerable in- terest, notably the altars at the four cardinal points, one of The altars which is visible in our illustration (Plate 172). These altars are very similar to those of the Ruanwcli dagaba, but much larger and more elaborate in detail, being about fifty feet in breadth. Many of the carvings are in remarkable preservation considering their vast age and the perils they have experienced. King Malta The next group of ruins to which we come belong to the third century, when Maha Sen, on the recantation of his heresy, built another enormous dagaba and a series of smaller religious edifices, of which there are some very interesting remains. This monarch ascended the throne a.d. 275, and died a.d. 302. His support of the schismatics who had seceded from the orthodox faith is attributable to a tutor under whose influence he came by the secret machinations of the party. The result of this was that upon coming to the throne he persecuted those monastic orders that turned a deaf ear to the new doctrines. Hundreds of their buildings were razed to the ground, including the famous Brazen Palace, and the materials were used for the erection of shrines and monasteries for the new sect. When, however, after the lapse of some years, the old faith still held its place in the affections of the people and his throne was endangered by general discontent, he returned to the faith of his fathers, restored all the buildings that he had destroyed, and reinstated the members of every foundation that he had overthrown. jeimmnarama The inception of the Jetawanarama monastery and dagaba is attributed to the middle period of this monarch's reign in the following quotation from the Mahawansa : — " The king having had two brazen images or statues cast THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 197 placed them in the hall of the great bo tree ; and in spite ol Anuradhapim'i remonstrance, in his infatuated partiality for the thera Tissa of the Abhayagiriya fraternity — a hypocrite, a dissembler, a companion of sinners, and a vulgar man — constructed the Jeta- wanarama vihara for him, within the consecrated bounds of the garden called Joti, belonging to the Mahavihara. " The Jetawanarama thus begun before the recantation of j, /„;,;, „«r„»ia the raja was not completed till the reign of his son Kitsiri Maiwan. In our photograph may be seen the remains of this great shrine across the glistening waters of the Basawak Kulam from a distance of about two miles (see Plate 173). The Basawak Kulam is one of the lakes constructed as tanks for the supply ol water to the city. Although we shall have occasion to refer to these tanks later, we may here notice that this one is said to be the oldest and dates from B.C. 437. The lofty dome, which sixteen centuries ago stood gleaming from its ivory-polished surface above the trees and spires which dotted the landscape, now stands a desolate mountain of ruined brick- work, over which the forest has crept in pity of its forlorn appearance. Its original height is open to question. It is said to have been three hundred and fifteen feet, but at present it is no more than two hundred and fifty. Like the other dagaba already described it was restored at various periods, and its original outline may have been altered. The spire which still crowns the dome was probably added when the dagaba was restored by King Parakrama Bahu in the eleventh century. Sir Emerson Tennent's pithy remarks upon this monument cannot be overlooked by any writer on Anuradha- pura, and must be reproduced here : — " The solid mass of masonry in this vast mound is pro- digious. Its diameter is three hundred and sixty feet, and its present height (including the pedestal and spire) two hundred and forty-nine feet ; so that the contents of the semi-circular dome of brickwork and the platform of stone seven hundred and twenty feet square and fifteen feet high exceed twenty millions of cubic feet. Even with the facilities which modern invention supplies for economising labour, the building of such a mass would at present occupy five hundred bricklayers from six to seven years, and would involve an expenditure of at least a million sterling. The materials are sufficient to raise eight thousand houses, each with twenty feet frontage, and these would form thirty streets half a mile in length. They would construct a town the size of Ipswich or Coventry ; they would line an ordinary railway tunnel twenty miles long, or form a wall one foot in thickness and ten feet in height, reaching from London to Edinburgh. Such are the dagabas of Anuradhapura, structures whose stupendous dimensions and the waste and 198 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Anuradhapura misapplication of labour lavished on them arc hardly outdone even in the instance of the Pyramids of Egypt." /rtatx'nnarama In close proximity to the great Jetawanarama dagaba are live buildings in one enclosure measuring two hundred feet square. In the centre stood the principal pavilion, the ruins of which are shown in plate 174. At the four corners of the enclosure were the subsidiary edifices, now only traceable by a few stone pillars that mark the site of each. Only so much of the central pavilion as is seen in this plate has been ex- cavated, but it suffices to show some exquisite carving and to give some idea of the importance of the building. The hand- some stylobate measures sixty-two by forty-two feet, and had a beautifully moulded base of finely-wrought granite. The superstructure has entirely disappeared. The flight of steps at the entrance needs very few words of description, as it can be seen in our illustration (Plate 174). The landing is a fine monolith thirteen feet long and eight wide. On either side of the landing is a grotesque figure. A coping skirts the landing on each side, and terminates in a rectangular block ornamented with a panel containing a seated lion beautifully carved in high relief. This is one of the best pieces of sculpture we shall meet with. The strength of the beast is well brought out, while the uplifted paw and the look of defiance are most suggestive. But as remarkable as the skill of the craftsman is its preservation, exposed and uninjured during so many centuries. The steps are ornamented by squatting figures of men who appear to be supporting the tread ; these, too, are well carved ; the hands are pressed upon the knees; the waist is girdled, and a jewelled band falls over the shoulders ; from the head waving curls are flowing ; their ears, arms, elbows, wrists and ankles are adorned with jewelled rings and bangles. The pilasters on cither side of each figure are carved in similar minute detail and represent bundles of leaves. The moonstone At the foot of the steps lies the best preserved moonstone yet discovered. The moonstone, it may be observed, is almost peculiar to Sinhalese architecture, and is a semicircular slab forming the doorstep to the principal entrance of a building. Its ornamentation varies considerably, as may be seen on com- paring plate 174 with plate 175. In our specimen (Plate 174) the innermost fillet contains a floral scroll of lilies ; next comes a row of the hansa, or sacred goose, each carrying in its beak a lotus-bud with two small leaves ; then comes a very handsome scroll of flowers and leaves ; after this is a procession of elephants, horses, lions and bulls; and, lastly, a border of rich foliage. All this carving is as sharp and well defined as if it were fresh from the sculptor's chisel, and this in spite of an interval of sixteen hundred years. Guard stones Guard stones and wing stones doubtless formed part of the 173. THE JETAWANARAMA ACROSS THE BASAWAK KULAM. 174. MOONSTONE AND STEPS. 175. MOONSTONE GUARD STONES MAKARA TORANA AND STEPS. 176. DALADA MALIGAWA. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 201 decoration of these handsome steps, but they have entirely Anuradhapura disappeared. The dvarpal stones which lace one another on the landing- are not so well preserved as the steps, owing to their being exposed while the lower portion of the structure was buried. The forest is everywhere teeming with ruins awaiting dis- covery and excavation. Sometimes the only sign of an impor- tant edifice is a single pillar or group of pillars standing above the ground, or perhaps a portion of some stairway which has not yet become entirely hidden by earth. A few years ago Mr. S. M. Burrows discovered the most perfect door-guardians and flight of steps yet unearthed by a very slight indication of the kind referred to. These form the subject of our illustra- tion, plate 175. I quote Mr. Burrows's own words in refer- ence to them from his Archaeological report : " The extreme tip of what appeared to be a ' dorapaluwa ' (door-guardian stone), and some fine pillars at a little distance from it, invited excava- tion. The result was highly satisfactorv. A vihara of the first class, measuring about eighty feet by sixty, was gradually unearthed, with perhaps the finest flight of stone steps in the ruins. The ' moonstone,' though very large, presents the lotus only, without the usual concentric circles of animal figures ; but one at least of the door-guardian stones, standing over five feet high, is unrivalled in excellence of preservation and delicacy of finish. Every detail, both of the central figure and its two attendants, stands out as clear and perfect as when it was first carved ; for the stone had fallen head downwards, and was buried under seven or eight feet of earth." We have already referred to Kitsiri Maiwan I., who finished the great Jetawanarama begun by his father, Maha Sen. In the ninth year of his reign, a.d. 311, the famous tooth-relic of Buddha was brought to Ceylon by a princess who in time of war is said to have fled to Ceylon for safety with the tooth con- cealed in the coils of her hair. The Dalada Maligawa, or Temple of the Tooth, was then built for its reception within the Thuparama enclosure. The ruins of this famous temple are well worthy of inspection. The building appears to have consisted of an entrance hall, an ante-chamber, and a relic- chamber. Our illustration shows the moulded jambs and lintel of the entrance to the ante-chamber still in situ. The prin- cipal chamber is interesting for its curiously carved pillars, the heads of which are worked into a design often supposed to represent the sacred tooth. At the principal entrance there is a handsome flight of stone steps, at the foot of which is a richlv sculptured moonstone and a dvarpal on either side. The origin of the Perahara festivals, still held annually at Kandy, dates from the erection of this temple from which the tooth was upon festival occasions borne through the streets of Anuradhapura on '/'/„■ Dalada ATetliramn 202 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Anuradhapura the back of a white elephant which was always kept at the temple for the purpose. During the invasions of the Malabars, when the temple was more than once destroyed, the sacred relic was on several occasions removed for safety and thus preserved, but at length, in the fourteenth century, it was seized and carried off to India. The Sinhalese king Parakrama Bahu III., however, by proceeding to India successfully negotiated its ransom and brought it back again. There is a story of its having been taken and destroyed by the Portuguese at a later date, and although Europeans consider the evidences of this final mishap as historical, the natives are satisfied that the original relic still exists in the temple at Kandy and regard it with the greatest veneration. Toitmiia The native annals give many particulars of the streets of the ancient city, but considering how deeply buried are the foundations of buildings traces of the streets are difficult to find. There is, however, one of considerable interest at Tolu- wila, a couple of miles east from the centre of the city. Here for seweral hundred yards the way is paved, and on either side there are remains of many buildings. At intervals where the road rises and falls there are flights of steps. In the vicinity there are a good many indications of wthdres and a small dagaba. It is very likely that this was within the sacred part of the ancient city. Eor a fuller description of the ruins of Anuradhapura the reader is referred to " The Ruined Cities of Ceylon," by H. W. Cave ; and guide books by John Still and S. M. Burrows. The facilities afforded by the Ceylon Government Railway will now enable thousands from every country to explore Anuradhapura, which has at length taken its rightful place amongst the most alluring monuments of the ancient world. NORTHERN LINE ITINERARY RESUMED. Anuradhapura to Kankesanturai. Madawachchi Madawachchi (97m. 31c). — The railway here approaches and passes over the main road which leads to the Giant's Tank and Mannar. The station takes its name from the nearest village, which is situated at the junction of the Jaffna and Mannar roads three miles distant. At the time of writing (1910) a railway extension of imperial importance is being constructed from Madawachchi towards India, and comDletion is anticipated in 191 1 or 1912. Sixty-six miles in length, it runs westerly through the jungle past the Giant's Tank, and over a series of bridges to the island of Mannar, which it traverses to its extreme westerly point at Talaimannar. Our Indian neighbour, the South Indian Railwav, meanwhile is also approaching us, by constructing a viaduct and swirig bridge THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY over the Paumben Channel, between the mainland and the Indian-owned island of Rameswaram (famous all over the East for its saered Hindu temple), across which a railway line already stretches to Dhanishkodi on its eastern end. By these important works India and Ceylon will be brought within some twenty miles of one another by rail, the intervening gap being for the present " bridged " by a comfortable ferry service in assured smooth water, as the boats will proceed " northabout or " southabout " of the " Adam's Bridge " (i.e. the series of shoals and islets between Rameswaram and Mannar Islands) according to the season, be it north-east or south-west mon- soon. It is possible that this intervening space of twenty miles may one day be crossed by embankments and bridges, as there are no insurmountable engineering difficulties in the way. The Ceylon Railway purposes running carriages of the most modern type on this service, including sleeping and refreshment saloons, and ere a couple of years have passed a much more comfortable route for travellers between India and Ceylon will have been provided than the present dreaded sea route between Tuticorin and Colombo. The Giant's Tank, which is thirty-five miles from Madawachchi, is one of the most stupendous of the ancient irrigation works in the island, having a retaining bund three hundred feet broad, which originally extended for fifteen miles. There is a rest-house at the tank, as also at the village of Madawachchi. Northern Line 177 ANCIENT SPILL BY WHICH THE OVERFLOW OF A RIVER IS DIVERTED TO THE GIANT S TANK. (Photograph by Oiven If. Hemiian, Esq.) 204 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Northern Vavuniya (iiim. 77c). — Upon nearing Vavuniya we arrive " lc in the Northern Province, the part of Ceylon which has for Vavuniya centuries been known as the Wanni, comprising' that portion of the island which lies between Jaffna in the north, Mannar on the west coast, and Trincomalee on the east ; altogether about 2,000 square miles. The country is generally flat and covered with thick forest and jungle, save where masses of black rock rear their gaunt heads above the foliage. Nevertheless here and there a few hills lend a welcome relief to the monotony, as do here the Madukanda range, which forms a background of beauty to the Vavuniya tank. For nine months of the year, January to September, it is the driest part of the island, and cultivation depends on the numerous irrigation tanks. Only one perennial fresh water lake exists in the whole province, and this is said to be partly artificial. The rivers flow only during the rains from October to December; at other times they are mere beds of dry sand. Tkejtcoph The inhabitants are mostly Tamils, with a sprinkling of Sinhalese and Moormen. Their condition is very low in the social scale. The villages consist of a few enclosed plots or courtyards, each containing several rude huts built with mud walls of about four feet high and a single door, to enter which it is necessary to stoop very low. There are no windows, and amid the semi-darkness of the interior the family reclines upon the mud floor or at best upon mats, the whole dwelling being innocent of furniture. Food consisting of kurrakan (a kind of millet), or paddy, is kept in a receptacle constructed with sticks interlaced in basket fashion and coated with mud. The courtyard is furnished with other necessaries to exist- ence in the shape of earthenware pots and mortars for pounding grain, and ploughs, and is inhabited by poultry and the ubiquitous pariah dog. In the more prosperous villages the squalid dwelling is surrounded by a wealth of fruit trees, oranges, limes, and plantains. Magnificent tamarind trees of great age are also plentiful. The people exist in great poverty, and apparently without any ambition to better their lot, and such is their indolence that the offer of good wages will not stimulate them to the slightest exertion. A paternal govern- ment exacts from them a certain amount of communal labour in connection with the irrigation of their lands, but even this they frequently evade until compelled by prosecution under the ordinances that have been framed for the common good. This lack of energy, however, which is in striking contrast to the industry of their brethren in the Jaffna peninsula, calls for sympathy, since it is bred of the poverty-stricken con- ditions that have existed in these districts during the centuries that have passed since their ancestors devastated the once fair province and left it to decay. They are the miserable THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 205 remnant of conquerors who knew not how to colonise, and Northern their indolence is due not so much to mere habit as to their Llne physical degeneration. The people of the Wanni were doubtless in a more flourish- 27«"'«m* ing condition before the invasion of the European, when they had their chieftains, the vassals of the Tamil rajahs, who held court at Jaffna. Their impoverishment probably began when the Portuguese took Jaffna and relentlessly exacted tribute from them by force of arms. The Dutch followed with further devastation in their train, but still failed in the task of subjuga- tion. In these continued struggles irrigation works were neglected, agriculture was abandoned, a general decay set in, and jungle crept over the land. As time went on the wild and dangerous denizens of the forest increased enormously at the expense of man, who retreated to any place that promised security, till at length, when the British took possession, the first efforts in the direction of amelioration took the form of the destruction of the elephants and leopards. But it must not be supposed that there is no prospect of improvement in the condition of the poor villager in this un- fruitful part of the country. His lot is a difficult problem to the Government, but is nevertheless its constant care. It is as necessary to provide means as to inculcate the lessons of self- help, and both arc being done. The Hon. Mr. J. P. Lewis, who was in charge of the Northern Province for a considerable time, says : " With all their faults the Yanni people are an easy people to deal with, and one cannot help liking them. They are hospitable and not disobliging. Some of their ideas are verv primitive. Government, as represented by the Assistant Agent, is all-powerful, and they go with their com- plaints to him on every conceivable subject." There is game of all kinds, large and small, throughout this Came province, but not so abundant as half a century ago. ft is, however, a somewhat difficult country for the sportsman. Elephants in small numbers inhabit all parts. Deer, pig, bears, and leopards are not easily bagged, owing to the widespread density of the forests and jungle. The natives shoot large game to a great extent at night from ambushes in the vicinity of water holes, an excellent means of ridding themselves of bears by whom they are liable to be attacked, and of leopards who destroy their cattle ; but unfortunately the slaughter is extended to other game, with the result that it is fast disappearing. The birds that are plentiful include pigeons, hawks, partridge, quail, egret, hornbill, teal, flamingos, and peafowl. Crocodiles arc large and very numerous in the tanks and lagoons, often wandering far from the water in search of food, and sometimes satisfying their hunger with human flesh. Pass 206 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Northern Mankulam (140m. 2ic). — Mankulam is in the very centre of the Northern Province. It is the nearest point of the rail- Mankulam wa y to Mullaittivu, the seat of administration for the district, which is thirty miles to the cast. There is very good sport of all kinds to be obtained from Mankulam, and it is the most convenient spot for the sportsman, there being four rest-houses within seven miles and a regular bullock-coach service with Mullaittivu. The district is, however, very sparsely inhabited by man. The land is fertile and admirably adapted for the cultivation of tobacco. Mankulam station affords an instance of trade following the railway, cart-loads of dried fish being brought daily from Mullaittivu on the east coast and despatched by rail to feed the coolies of the tea estates in the mountain districts. Paranthan Paranthan (163m. 6c). — This station is principally used for the despatch of timber. Satinwood, for which the district is famous, is the chief freight. There is no local accommodation, and the station is five miles from the village whose name it bears. Elephant Elephant Pass (168m. 71c). — There is a natural curiosity as to the origin of the name Elephant Pass, and the explana- tions given arc plausible enough. Jaffna is a peninsula joined to the mainland by a long causeway, which at one time was a shallow ford. By this ford herds of wild elephants were in the habit of visiting Jaffna during Julv and August, the ripening season of the palmyra fruit. Palmyra palms abound here, and the elephant is particularlv fond of the fruit, which grows in luxuriant clusters, each of which is a good cooly load. If a sufficiency of fruit had not fallen from the mature trees the elephants would pull down the younger plants for the sake of their tender leaves. This is the theory adopted by Tennent, but it is equally reasonable to attribute the name to the use made of this ford by the natives in bringing elephants from the mainland to the fort as tribute to the Portuguese and Dutch, who shipped them to Indian markets. There is no railway station at Elephant Pass, but the train stops for passengers. There is a quaint and picturesque old building at the edge of the lagoon, facing the sea on one side and the lagoon on the other, which was once a Dutch fort. Formerly it was a rest-house in the davs before the advent of the railway, but it is now closed to the public and converted to a " circuit bungalow " for the Government Agent of the Northern Province. By the courtesy of that officer it is at times lent for temporary occupation to those who desire a short residence in the vicinity and who are prepared to bring their own equipment, servants and provisions. Duck-shootino- and fishing can be indulged in to any extent, and the salubritv of the place is beyond question. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 207 Pallai (176m. 54c). — In approaching Pallai we become Northern aware that the whole character of the country and its in- habitants have suddenly changed. Orderly cultivation takes Pallai the place of jungle and forest, and a large, healthy and in- dustrious population succeeds to the indolent and degenerate peasantry who have aroused our pity during our journey through their poverty-stricken districts. Pallai has a popula- tion of five thousand, ten Roman Catholic churches, and one of the Church Missionary Society ; curiously the latter institu- tion has seven schools to three of the Roman Catholics. The coconut is again seen flourishing here, and the large extent of its cultivation is evidenced in the railway freight of copra, 240 tons being despatched to Colombo alone during the month of my visit. Pottery is also amongst the manufactures. Kodikamam (185m. 77c). — This station serves the important Kodikamam town of Point Pedro, ten miles distant and the northernmost port in Ceylon. There is a daily coach service between the two places. Point Pedro is almost the extreme northern point of Ceylon. It cannot boast of a harbour, but the coral reef which guards the shore affords shelter and a safe anchorage. The little town is neat and trim. We notice at once that care is bestowed on the upkeep of roads, bungalows, and gardens, betokening' the presence of an industrious population. It derives its import- ance from the circumstance that the town of Jaffna, on the western side of the peninsula, can never be approached by ships within some miles, owing to the way in which the water shoals towards the coast, while in the south-west monsoon ships of eight or ten feet draft cannot come near enough to receive and discharge cargo at this port. At such a time Point Pedro and Kankesanturai, although open roadsteads, are in- valuable anchorages. Chavakachcheri (190m. 41c.).— As we approach this town Chavakach. the surprising neatness of garden culture attracts our attention. cherl The villages are numerous, and disclose a closely-packed popu- lation, and the roads everywhere are in perfect condition. Large groves of the palmyra palm take the place of the coco- nut which flourishes further south. Tons of eggs are amongst the articles of food constantly despatched to Colombo, the railway having opened up the distant markets to the industrious Tamils, with the effect of raising prices locally, but at the same time contributing considerably to the wealth of the poultry farmer. The Americans have chosen Jaffna as a field for missionary effort, and two of their churches are in this village, the population of which is 3,500. Navatkuli (195m. 71c). — Navatkuli possesses similar Navatkuii characteristics to those of the preceding station, from which it is but five miles distant. Palmyra i ultivation 208 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Northern Jaffna (200m. 24c). — Jaffna, the capital of the Northern Province and the seat of its administration, is an extensive and Jaffna well ordered town of about 35,000 inhabitants. Its climate is warm, equable, and dry. The Dutch, who adopted the penin- sula as one of their chief settlements, regarded it as particularly healthy, an opinion which is endorsed by its present rulers. It is especially beneficial in the cure of lung diseases, and should, now that it has become accessible by rail, prove a useful sanatorium for those who need open-air treatment. At present it possesses too little accommodation for the visitor, there being only one hostelry — the rest-house — and that is in a warm situa- tion, but it is spacious and comfortable, and suffices for short visits. Agriculture is the chief occupation of the inhabitants. The palmyra palm is at once the most conspicuous and the most beautiful feature of the landscape. The traveller will especially admire those forests of this palm which have increased at such different periods that the crowns of broad fan-like leaves rise in tiers from the foreground, young ones of ten feet, receding in deep belts of thirty, fifty, and seventy feet high, backed by the mature forest reaching one hundred or more. Tobacco, although it does not supply the cultivator directly with all the necessaries of life as the palmyra does, is next in importance, and economically is the most valuable of all the products of Jaffna, there being upwards of ten thousand acres in cultivation, yielding about seven million pounds per annum. The quality is coarse, strong, and full flavoured. It is not such as to find favour with Europeans, but is thoroughly grateful to the taste of the natives of both Ceylon and India. Most of it is exported to the mainland. Attempts have frequently been made to grow leaf of more delicate aroma, and with some success, but it does not suit the local market, and therefore finds little favour with the Tamil grower, who has not the spirit of enterprise or the ambition necessary to successfully compete with the purveyors of the white man's cigar. The Jaffna weed is pre-eminently the natives' fancy, and is likely to retain its hold when the large expanse of uncultivated land of the Northern Province, through which we have passed on our way to Jaffna, has been reclaimed for growing tobacco for the Western markets. It is certain that the Jaffna Tamil must sooner or later extend his boundaries, for practically every inch of the peninsula is under cultivation, and the population is already too dense. With the new railway facilities he will infallibly spread southward, and as a born agriculturist he will obtain from the soil whatever of profit it will yield. Nevertheless the question of extending the tobacco fields is not a simple one, since the quantity of coarse and pungent 178. TOBACCO. 179. THE METHOD OF IRRIGATING THE TOBACCO FIELDS. O 180 DUTCH CHURCH AT JAFFNA. 181. DUTCH FORT AT JAFFNA. the Ma, fields THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 211 tobacco grown for the local and Indian market already suffices, Northern and the fine and delicate qualities requited in the more distant markets demand patient and careful experiment. In this, J affna however, the Government will lend its scientific aid through the agency of the Department of Botany and Agriculture. Irrigation, in which the native cultivator cannot easily take the initiative, except in the hill country, has perhaps more than anything else restrained the Jaffnese. On the peninsula it is an easy matter, because an unlimited supply of water is obtainable from never-failing wells. The irrigation of the tobacco fields, as well as that of the {; extensive fruit and flower gardens which everywhere abound, is primitive and peculiar. Water is obtained exclusively from the wells, and it is raised after sunset by labourers in the following manner : — The well sweep, a horizontal lever in the form of a log of wood about fifteen feet long, is so attached to a high post that it will act like the see-saw beloved of village children in Europe ; a woven basket of palmyra leaves is at- tached to the end of the lever over the well. A couple of coolies then play see-saw by walking to and fro on the log, making the basket descend and return again full of water by this useful kind of sentry-go. Thousands of coolies draw water during the night, and others distribute it over the fields and gardens. Sometimes one cooly is sufficient for the lever. Another labourer, generally a woman, stands near and directs the basket in its ascent, and empties it into the necessary channel by which it is conducted to the plants. We are amazed no less at the orderly and neat cultivation than at its variety. Every kind of "curry-stuff" seems to grow in Jaffna, which also produces the best fruits of the island. A large export trade is done in them, which is paid for by the importation of rice. Dry grains are easily grown ; but rice, which requires much water, is unsuited to the soil and climate, and is therefore not much cultivated on the peninsula. The fields are fenced in by palings formed of the middle ribs of palmyra leaves, or by such plants as aloes and cactus, which effectually keep out intruders. In no other part of Ceylon will the visitor see such fine crops of brinjals, chillies, ginger, gourds, melons, yams, sweet potatoes, and arrowroot. There is no town in Ceylon which still bears on its features the impress of the Dutch occupation so completely as does Jaffna. This is doubtless owing to the architecture of its most prominent buildings — the Fort and the bungalows. The Fort is built of coral, and shows no sign of decay at the present dav. Some idea of the masonry can be gathered from our little picture (Plate 181). Within its enclosure are several fine buildings : a massive church in the form of a Greek cross, the Queen's House, occupied by the Governor of the colony upon TIw old Dutch church 212 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Northern official visits, Government offices and police quarters. There are now very few Dutch Presbyterians resident in Jaffna, and in consequence the church has become disused and its furni- ture removed. The size of the church and the large number of tombs of Dutch officials testify to the importance of Jaffna in the Dutch period. Other remains of Dutch architecture in Jaffna worthy of the visitor's attention are the buildings in Main Street, where the gables and verandahs will especially claim notice. In this street is a house, now owned and occupied by a Tamil member of the bar, which contains some elaborately carved doors of massive character with finely engraved brass plates and hinges, bearing witness, in the sumptuous appointments of the Dutch houses, to the con- trast between the earlier colonisation and that of the present day, when the modern houses contain scarcely any suggestion of the home country, and are obviously regarded by their occupants as a temporary residence and not as a permanent home, a difference perhaps attributable to the steamship, which has brought the East and West, in time, so near together. There are also many remains of the earlier Portuguese occupation worthy the attention of the visitor, notably the fine ruined church and monastery on the Kavts road near the eighth milestone from Jaffna. The drive is a most pleasant one, and as comfortable carriages can be readily hired at Jaffna it should not be missed. Another Portuguese ruin of an equally interesting character will be found at Achchaveli, eleven miles from Jaffna on the Point Pedro road. This is an excellent drive to take for the inspection of the tobacco fields. The visitor can make himself very comfortable at Jaffna, especially from December to February, when the temperature is moderate. The rest-house is not all that could be desired in such a large town, but it faces an open park-like space with fine avenues. The town generally gives a favourable im- pression. Its bungalows are spacious, well-built, and clean ; its streets are wide and well-tended, while its gardens and commons are so well kept as to suggest that there are no idle folk amongst the inhabitants. In fact, everyone is very busy at Jaffna, and we find that about as much work is done thoroughly there for one rupee as is half done in Colombo for double the amount. We have referred to the race that inhabits Jaffna as one of agriculturists ; but we also find industrious artisans working in the carpentry, jewellery, and other trades. The goldsmiths arc ingenious, and have formed very distinct styles and patterns that arc peculiar to them. Their bangles, brooches, chains, and rings are beautiful in design and workmanship, while their tools are of the most primitive order and few in number. 182. PORTUGUESE REMAINS AT JAFFNA. 183. JAFFNA STATION. 2i 4 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Northern Line Chunakam Kankesan = turai Chunakam (206m. 14c). — Chunakam is the half-way station between the town of Jaffna and the terminus of the railway on the northern shore. There is no accommodation for the visitor, who will merely pass through on his trip to Kankesanturai. Between Jaffna and this place may be seen in its greatest variety and profusion every species of agriculture with which the Tamil has enriched the peninsula. Kankesanturai (211m. 18c). — Kankesanturai is the northern terminus. Here the visitor will find comfortable quarters and an invigorating sea breeze at the rest-house. The chief features of the quiet little port to-day are the light- house and the remains of the old fort that has been lashed by the surf for four centuries. As we dwell upon the striking scenes that the little peninsula has afforded us, and contrast them in our minds with the wild and uncultivated lands which we have seen further south, we cannot resist the conclusion that the possession of economic qualities is, after all, to be preferred to scenery. 134 ENTRANCE TO THE DUTCH FORT AT JAFFNA. CHAPTER X THE KELANI VALLEY Where in olden times the Kandyan kings were wont to Keiani Valley descend from their mountain fastnesses and give battle to the Theohhn European invader a narrow-gauge railway now creeps along a romantic and beautiful valley. In those days travelling facilities were limited to jungle paths and dug-out ferry boats ; cultivation was sparse but nature was bountiful, and among her many gifts was the wild cinnamon which aroused the greed and avarice of the foreigner. For this he fought, and it was here in the valley of the Keiani that the greatest struggles with the Kandyans took place. The country between Colombo and Yatiyantota is full of historical associations, and many legends lend their quota of interest to the rugged land- scape. But the charms of romance have now yielded to the demand of commerce. Where a few years ago the life and occupations of the people were absolutely primitive and tillage was limited to native methods, there are now thirty thousand acres of tea, ten thousand of rubber and a railway. In spite of this great extension of the area of cultivation Attractions and of means of transport, the attractions of scenery and the °f sc ">*>y quaintness of native customs are very little diminished, and the tourist or visitor will not have seen all the best part of Ceylon until he has made the acquaintance of this famous district. Even the soldiers who were engaged in fierce warfare with the Kandyans, and who experienced all the trials and hindrances of marching in a tropical country without roads, were enchanted by the singular beauty of the country and described it in their journals in terms of glowing enthusiasm. The same fascinating landscape of undulating lowlands and The natives lovely river views is there, but the modern traveller finds not only excellent roads, but always a courteous, gentle and con- tented population. In no other district of Ceylon is Sinhalese rural life more full of interest. The primitive methods of the natives in the manufacture of quaint pottery, their curious system of agriculture and the peculiar phases of their social life, are not less interesting than the beautiful country in which they live. 215 216 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Kelani Valley The railway runs parallel to the river but at a distance of some miles to the south until Karawanella is reached ; there- fore he who wishes to see the river and the villages of Kadu- wella and Hanwella must make a special excursion from Colombo by horse carriage or motor car ; or he can take the train to Waga and drive to Hanwella. Kaduweiia Kaduwella is charmingly situated, and, like almost every village of importance in the Kelani Valley, has a delightful rest-house, which is built on a steep red rock almost over- hanging the river, and commanding one of many delightful vistas where the noble Kelani meanders in and out, and dis- plays its curving banks, always covered with the richest foliage. Here one may sit and watch the quaint barges and rafts as they pass, laden with produce for Colombo, or groups of natives and cattle crossing all day long by the ferry close by. Cave-Temple There is a famous Cave-Temple of the Buddhists at Kaduwella, very picturesquely situated under an enormous granite rock in the midst of magnificent trees. It has a fine pillared hall, the bare rock forming the wall at the back. The usual colossal image of Buddha is carved in the solid granite, and is a good specimen of its class. Behind the temple a magnificent view is to be obtained from the top of the cliff over the hilly country. The jungle is thickly inhabited by troops of black monkeys, flocks of green parrots, huge lizards resembling young crocodiles, and myriads of smaller creatures. Indeed, the zoologist, the botanist, and the artist need go no further for weeks. Maiwana On the right bank of the river, opposite Kaduwella, is a place of classical interest now known as Welgama, but anciently by the more poetic name of Malwana. Three cen- turies or more ago it was the chosen sanitarium of Portuguese Governors and high officials, and was regarded as the most salubrious spot within their reach. Here they dwelt in princely palaces few traces of which remain. Pottery The villages upon the banks of the river are famous for their pottery. The visitor will be interested no less by the quaintness of the ware itself, than by the methods of its manu- facture, which is carried on in open sheds by the wayside. Hanwella The large village of Hanwella is reached at the twenty- first mile-post from Colombo. It was a place of considerable consequence in the davs of the Kandyan kingdom, and possessed a fort commanding both by land and water the principal route which led from the interior of the island to Colombo. Here the last king of Kandy was defeated by Captain Pollock. Not far from this place was a palace erected for the use of the king when on this his final expedition, and in front of it were placed the stakes on which he intended to impale the captured British. 185. VIEW FROM THE REST-HOUSE, HANWELLA. 186. THE MANUFACTURE OF POTTERY 187. ARECA PALMS. ARECA ADORNING THE JUNGLE. 189. THE HACKERY THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 219 Our view No. 185 is taken from the grounds of the rest- Keiani Valley house which occupy the site of the old fort built by the The historic Portuguese about three centuries ago. The stone seats observ- r '"t-iwuse able in our picture bear inscriptions recording the visits of members of the British royal family. King Edward VII. was here in 1876. In 1870 Hanwella was visited by the Duke ol Edinburgh, and in 1882 by His Majesty King George V. and the late Prince Victor. Trees planted by all the Princes will be seen flourishing in the grounds. The up-river view (Plate 185) is particularly beautiful in River scenery the early morning when the Adam's Peak range of mountains is visible in the background; the broad silvery stream narrow- ing in distant perspective, the rich borders of foliage that clothe the lofty and receding banks, the foreground clad with verdure and flowers, and the blue haze of distant mountains over all make up a picture that does not easily fade from memory, but which no photograph can adequately represent. KELANI VALLEY LINE ITINERARY The railway itinerary from Colombo to Yatiyantota begins at Keiani Valley Maradana Junction. The line upon leaving Colombo runs south until the first station, Cotta Road (2m. 20c.) is reached. This is a small suburban station within municipal limits. After leaving Cotta Road the line traverses the Ridgeway golf links (said to be the best low country links in the East) to Nugegoda. Nugegoda (5m. 52c). — Nugegoda is in the centre of a Nugegoda cluster of well-populated villages of which the once famous principality of Cotta is the chief. The road scenery in the neighbourhood is very charming as may be gathered from our plate 189. Although Cotta was the seat of kings in the Cotta fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when the whole country was subdivided into petty states, there are no remains of historical interest to detain the visitor. The chief institutions in the district are the missionary and educational establishments of the Church Missionary Society, which date from the year 1818. The manufactures consist of pottery and pillow-lace, which the villagers may be seen making- in the shade of their palm- thatched verandahs. Both may be purchased at surprisingly small prices (Plate 186). The agricultural products are cinnamon, the various palms and garden vegetables, tons of which are sent by rail to the Colombo markets. Pannipitiya (rom. 49c.). — Pannipitiva offers no special Pannipitiya attractions to the visitor. It is a purely Sinhalese village of about eight hundred inhabitants, whose occupations chiefly consist in the cultivation of the betel, cinnamon and oranges. 220 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Keiani Valley Homagama (i 5m. 23c). — Homagama station serves a purely Lme Sinhalese population engaged in agriculture. The chief pro- Hcmagama ducts are the palm, cinnamon, betel, areca nuts, coconut oil and garden vegetables. We shall here notice a distinct increase in the cultivation of the elegant areca nut palms which form one of the noticeable features of the Keiani Valley. Arecajaims They adorn the jungle on all sides. A pleasing effect is pro- duced by the beautiful delicate stem, with its rich feathery crest, standing out from the surrounding foliage. The graceful bamboos, the huge waving fronds of the plantain, the shapely- mango, covered with the bell-shaped blossoms of the thun- bergia creeper, all seem to form a setting in which the elegant areca displays its beauties to the greatest possible advantage. The virtues of this tree, however, are not aesthetic only. It is very prolific in the production of nuts, which grow in clusters from the stem just beneath the crest of the palm. Previous to the development of the nuts the tree flowers, and diffuses a delightful fragrance all around. In size and appear- ance the nuts are not unlike the nutmeg, and are similarly- enclosed in a husk. What becomes of them is easy to realise when it is considered that every man, woman, and child is addicted to the habit of betel-chewing, and that the areca nut forms part of the compound used for this purpose ; added to this, there is an export trade in areca nuts to the amount of about ^75,000 per annum. Padukka Padukka (21m. 74c). — Padukka is a Sinhalese agricultural village of the same character as Homogama, with the addi- tional feature of an excellent rest-house. From this point onward the railway enters the district where rubber cultiva- tion on a large scale is taking place, and the traveller will from time to time notice plantations of these most lucrative Jak trees trees in various stages of growth. The jak trees in this dis- trict will attract the notice of the traveller by their stupendous growth and gigantic fruit. The jak not only grows the largest of all edible fruits, but it bears it in prodigious quantity and in a peculiar fashion. It throws huge pods from the trunk and larger branches, and suspends them by a thick and short stalk. There are sometimes as many as eighty of these huge fruits upon one tree, some of them weighing as much as forty to fifty pounds. They are pale green in colour, with a granu- lated surface. Inside the rough skin is a soft yellow substance, and embedded in this are some kernels about the size of a walnut. This fruit often forms an ingredient in the native curries, but its flavour is disliked by Europeans. Elephants, however, are very fond of it, and its great size would seem to make it an appropriate form of food for these huge beasts. A much more extensive use of the jak tree is the manufacture of furniture from its wood, which is of a yellowish colour 190. THE JAK TREE 101. SITAWAKA RIVER. 192. SITAWAKA RIVER. 193. THE TOLL BA 194. THE GUIDE POST TO RATNAPURA 195. A KELANI BARGE AT HANWELLA. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 223 turning to red when seasoned. It is harder than mahogany, Kelani Valley which it somewhat resembles. Line Waga (27m. 48c). — From Padukka to Waga the course of Waga the railway line is north and approaches to within four miles of Hanwella. Thus it will be noticed that the traveller who wishes to visit Hanwella without the expense of motor car or other conveyance from Colombo, can travel by rail to Waga and thence to Hanwella by hackery (Plate 189), which will cost about twenty-five cents or fourpence a mile. At Hanwella will be found the comfortable rest-house iiaimviia already described, where the artist or naturalist will be tempted to prolong his stay. Upon leaving Hanwella the route mav be varied by driving to Kosgama station instead of back to Waga, the distance being about the same. We have now reached the outskirts of the Kelani Valley tea plantations, and tea has to be added to the list of local products, although areca nuts provide most of the freight despatched from Waga station. Apart from the beautiful scenery and historical associations LeUmgama., of Hanwella, the traveller will be well rewarded for a trip to Waga by the lovely prospect of the Labugama Lake, from which Colombo derives its water supply. Here in silence and solitude lies an expanse of water artificially dammed, but with such a glorious setting that it is unsurpassed for picturesquc- ness in the rest of this beautiful country. Around the basin, which is situated 360 feet above sea level, are rugged hills rising to upwards of 1,000 feet and exhibiting the greatest variety of tropical flora, planted by the hand of nature herself. The catchment area of 2,400 acres is intersected by manv streams, which flow from the hills over boulder-strewn beds bringing pure supplies to the reservoir. The marginal sward, like the gold slip of a picture frame, has its pleasing effect at the edge of the still waters, in which are mirrored the graceful shapes evolved from the mists of a vapour-laden sky. Beauti- ful cloud-effects are seldom absent, for it is a locality which attracts and then disperses them. The rainfall is indeed heavy and frequent, amounting to 160 inches in a year, or nearly double that of Colombo. The visitor should therefore be prepared accordingly. Before the Kelani Valley was exploited for agricultural purposes, the locality around Labugama was famous for elephant hunting and shooting. A kraal was constructed here in 1882 in honour of the visit of His Majesty the King and the late Prince Victor, and a large number of elephants were caught. Puwakpitiya (34m. 43c). — At Puwakpitiya we reach the Puwakpitiya tea cultivation. This station serves the estates of Penrith, Elston, Glencorse, Ernan, Ferriby and Northumberland. 224 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Keiani Valley Rubber is also largely cultivated in this neighbourhood. From Line the heights upon Ferriby Estate there are grand views of the surrounding mountainous country. Avisaweiia Avisawella (36m. 66c). — Avisawella is a town of con- siderable importance both historically and as the centre of the district. It is moreover at present the junction between the rail and coach service to Ratnapura, the city of gems. The local products are tea, coconuts, cardamoms, paddy, betel leaf, kurrakan, cinnamon, rubber and areca nuts. The accommodation for travellers at the rest-house quite near the railway station is excellent, and the food supply always good. suimmka Sitawaka is the historical name of this place, and although it has long' disappeared from maps and modern documents, the river, a tributary of the Keiani, upon which the ancient city stood, is still known as the Sitawaka River (see Plates 191 and 192). The name is derived from the incident of Sita, the heroine of the epic Ramayana, being forcibly brought hither by Rawana. This legend of prehistoric times provides a fitting- halo of romance for so charming a spot ; but in later times, when history has supplanted tradition, we find Sitawaka towards the middle of the sixteenth centurv the capital of a lowland principality, the stronghold of Mayadunne and his son Rajasinha, who had the courage to oppose the King of Cotta and the Portuguese, with the result that many bloody battles were fought around the city, which eventually, about the close of the century, was destroyed by the ruthless Portuguese, who scarcely left a stone standing. The beautiful temple, con- structed of finely worked granite, and the gorgeous palace were burned and wrecked so completely that only traces of them are now visible. Ratnajmra Ratnapura, to which we have made reference in connection with Panadure and Kalutara in our description of the coast line, is twenty-six miles from Avisawella, and there is at present a dailv coach service between the two places. The planters of the Ratnapura district have, however, made out a case before the Ceylon Government and an exten- sion of the Keiani Valley line, twenty-seven miles in length, is now under construction from Avisawella to Ratnapura, and will probably be opened for traffic at the end of 1911. The country to be traversed is very similar to that already de- scribed in the journey from Colombo. For exquisite scenery many award the palm to Ratnapura. Certain it is that no traveller can be disappointed; for here are obtainable distant views of great sublimity in mountain walls clothed with forest rising thousands of feet in sheer perpendicular ; and in the nearer landscape well-watered valleys and undulating- plains may be seen teeming with every form of tropical flora. Ratnapura is also the centre of the Kelani Valley gemming industry, which is entirely in native hands. Here Llne the traveller can obtain an insight into the methods by which Ratnapura the hidden treasures of the earth are brought to light. Here Gems, under our feet lie the gems that will some day adorn future generations of the wealthy. The discovery of these precious stones is an unceasing source of considerable wealth. The gem-digger comes upon a sapphire, with the possible result that a thousand pounds from the coffers of the Rajah in a distant land is transferred to the sum of wealth in Ceylon, but such valuable finds are few and far between. Genuine stones there are in abundance, but those that are flawless and of approved tint are the prizes of the industry. Deiiiowita (42m. 50c.). — Dehiowita is surrounded by many Dehiowita large tea estates, which supply a considerable traffic to the railway. Rubber cultivation is on the increase here. The little town lies about three quarters of a mile from the railway station, and contains about nine hundred inhabitants, many of them being estate coolies. Karawanella (45m. 40c). — Karawanella station is one mile Karawaneiia from the village of Karawanella and two miles from Ruanwella, which together have a population of about 1,500. Some of the most beautiful scenery in Ceylon is to be found here. The river views are perhaps unequalled, especially that from Kara- wanella bridge (Plate 196). There are plenty of heights from which to view the diversified character of the country. Immense perpendicular ledges of rocks rise from the forest, rearing their stupendous heads above the thickets of palm and bamboo. Even these rocks of granite which appear in giant masses all over the forests by disintegration supply nourishment for the luxuriant vegetation with which they are covered (Plate 199). The reward of human labour is apparent in the tea and rubber estates now flourishing where once the lands lay in utter devastation as a result of the native wars with the Portuguese and Dutch, the country here being the farthest point to which the invaders managed to penetrate. At Ruanwella the rest-house and its grounds, which are Ruanwella on the site of a ruined fort, are in themselves full of interest, and will be found so conducive to comfort as to make the visitor who is not pressed for time very loth to leave. A fine archway, the entrance to the ancient fort, is still preserved, and forms an interesting feature in the gardens. The site, commanding as it did the water communication between Kandy and Colombo, was of great importance. Here the Kandyans made more than one brave but ineffectual stand against the British troops in the early part of the nineteenth century- At this time the Kandyan king's royal garden was occupied by British troops, and was thus described by i' 226 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Keiani Valley Percival : — "The grove where we encamped was about two Line miles in circumference, being bound on the west by a large, The king's deep and rapid branch of the Malivaganga, while in front garden towards Ruanwella another branch ran in the south-east direction, winding in such a manner that the three sides of the grove were encompassed by water, while the fourth was enclosed by thick hedges of bamboos and betel trees. This extensive coconut-tree garden lies immediately under steep and lofty hills, which command a most romantic view of the sur- rounding country. It forms part of the king's own domains, and is the place where his elephants were usually kept and trained. " The British retained Ruanwella as a military post until the new road to Kandy was completed and the pacification of the Kandyans entirely accomplished, after which the fort and commandant's quarters were transformed into a well- appointed rest-house and picturesque gardens. The ruined entrance still bears the initials of Governor Sir Robert Brown- rigg and the date 1817. Produce boats A pleasant stroll from the rest-house, through shady groves of areca and other palms, brings us to a part of the river which is not only very picturesque, but gives evidence of its use of commerce as a highway. Here we can see the quaint pro- duce boats and the curiously constructed bamboo rafts being laden with freight for the port of Colombo. From this point to Colombo the distance by water is about sixty miles ; and such is the rapidity of the current after the frequent and heavy rainfalls that these boats are able to reach Colombo in one day ; the only exertion required of the boatmen being such careful steering as to keep clear of rocks, trees, and sandbanks. The return journey, however, is a more arduous task, and entails great labour and endurance for many days. Yatiyantota Yatiyantota (47m. 6oc). — Yatiyantota is the present terminus of the Keiani Valley railway. It is very much shut in by hills and in consequence very warm. There is a good rest-house with two bedrooms. There are few attractions here for the visitor; but it serves as a halting place for those who proceed by this route to Dickoya and the higher planting districts, the mountain pass to which is a thing of very great natural beauty and of its kind unequalled in Ceylon, where so many mountain passes have lost their primitive beauty owing to the inroads of modern cultivation clearing away all the primeval forest. Here, in the Ginigathena Pass, the landscape has not yet suffered, and the views from Kitulg-ala at the eighth mile from Yatiyantota are exceedingly beautiful. Upon leaving the rest- house the road runs along the banks of the Keiani, as seen 196. THE KELANI AT KARAWANELLA. 197. PRODUCE BOATS AT RUANWELLA. 228 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Keiani.Vaiiey in our plate 198, the ascent beginning about the third mile. Llne There are no conveyances to be obtained at Yatiyantota except bullock hackeries, and the visitor who wishes to pro- ceed by this route to Hatton should therefore make the trip by motor car from Colombo. But for the tourist who explores Cinigatkcna t] le Kelani Valley at leisure, a walking tour up the Ginigathena Pass, with a hackery for an occasional ride, is pleasant enough, and may be done by making headquarters at Ruan- wella rest-house which is cooler and pleasanter than Yati- yantota. Kegaiu In the same way the tourist may make a trip from Ruan- wella to Kegalle (twenty miles), through a lovely wooded and undulating country. The cyclist will find it easy to explore the whole of the Kelani Valley by using the railway for the longer journeys, and taking short excursions on his bicycle from the various rest-houses. 198. THE KELANI AT YATIYANTOTA. 199. ROCKS OF GRANITE AT RUANWELLA. 200. DANDUGAMUWA BRIDGE 201. THE RAILWAY STATION NEGOMBO. CHAPTER XI THE NEGOMBO LINE The last completed section of the Ceylon Government Railway Negombo Line is the Negombo Line (broad gauge), which extends from Ragama Junction, on the main line, in a northerly direction for fourteen and a half miles. This line will be eventually further extended to serve the populous villages of the western coast and the important towns of Chilaw and Puttalam. The visitor is recommended to make the short trip to Negombo both on account of the interesting scenery en route and the picturesque features of the town itself. The first station reached after leaving the junction of Ragama, which is only nine miles from Colombo, is Kandana. Kandana (2m. 5c). — This station chiefly serves the native Kandana agriculturist, who is occupied in the cultivation of all manner of garden produce for the market of Colombo. At the begin- ning of the fifth mile we reach a place of much greater importance — Ja-ela. Ja-ela (4m. ioc.). — There is a local tradition that in early Ja-ela times this place was occupied by Malays from Java, who con- structed a canal (ela) and named the locality Ja-ela, signifying their origin and achievement. For many centuries the district has been famous for its cinnamon, which, whether wild or cultivated, has been found to possess a quality of distinctly superior aroma. There is an excellent rest-house close to the station. Siduwa Road (7m. 78c). — This is merely a small siding siduwa Road where tickets are issued for the convenience of the inhabitants of outlying villages too distant from other stations. It is approached by Dandugamuwa bridge, which we illustrate. Katunayake (10m. 45c.) is situated amidst well-watered katunayake fields and gardens, where a thriving and busy population de- vote themselves to a great variety of tropical culture and to whom the introduction of the railway is proving a boon of considerable importance. Negombo (14m. 42c). — Negombo is one of the most Negombo picturesque towns in Ceylon, and is, moreover, favoured with perhaps the richest soil, a property which accounts for the magnificent appearance of the vegetation throughout the dis- trict. In this respect it is indeed unsurpassed anywhere in the island. Its products include many exotic fruits, originally 2 3 r 202. THE LAKE OF NEGOMBO. 203. THE WATER CARRIERS, NEGOMBO. THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 233 introduced from Java and the Malay Peninsula, while its in- Negombo Lin digenous plants and trees include almost the whole flora of Ceylon, in the most beautiful combination that the vegetable kingdom is capable of exhibiting, or that the most fertile imagination can picture. Every reference to Negombo in the wide range of literature that has been devoted to Ceylon since the arrival of Europeans at the beginning of the fifteenth century has noted this fact with appreciation. After the eulogies of the Portuguese and the Dutch, Cordiner wrote in 1807: "The Jack, the bread-fruit, the jamboo, and the cashew-tree weave their spreading branches into an agreeable shade amidst the stems of the areca and coconut. The black pepper and betel plants creep up the sides of the lofty trunks ; cinnamon and an immense variety of flowering shrubs fill the intermediate spaces, and the mass of charming foliage is blended together with a degree of richness that beggars tin- powers of description. All the beautiful productions of the island are here concentrated in one exuberant spot, and, as Ceylon has been termed the garden of India, this province may be styled the herbarium of Ceylon." Modern methods of culture have still further intensified the luxuriant aspect of the district ; and now that the railway has rendered it so easily accessible, its botanical marvels and its charmingly picturesque features will deservedly become as familiar to the European traveller as those of Kalutara and Galle. The town has a population of 20,000 inhabitants, mostly Sinhalese. The bungalows, suggestive of Dutch influence in their architec- tural features, are neat and clean, and the whole place exhibits a well-kept appearance befitting the seat of an Assistant Government Agent who presides over the district. An im- portant item to the traveller is the capacious rest-house situated upon a walled embankment overlooking an extensive and beautiful lake (see Plate 202). Here the traveller will find the necessaries of life, and such native delicacies and luxuries as unrivalled tropical gardens and fisheries can afford. Quaint craft will be seen sailing to and fro in front of this hostelry. In close proximity is the bridge observable in our picture of the water carriers (Plate 203), leading to the pretty island of Numnai Karsi, where salt may be seen oozing through the sand in sufficient quantity to be segregated for table use. The smaller island of Kuttai Duwe, famous for its auctions of fish, is also observable to the right. Sailing upon this charming lake is one of the pleasantest recreations of visitors. The quaint operations of the fisherfolk are an unfail- ing attraction to those who have never before seen them. The Dutch, during their occupation of the maritime provinces, applied their proverbial genius for the construction of water- ways in looping together the large saltwater lakes of 234 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Negombo Line the western coast by means of canals. Thus they were able to carry produce from Puttalam to Colombo without the risk of navigating- in the open sea. The canal at Negombo affords the visitor a very good specimen of these waterways, and, moreover, provides the amateur photographer with some very attractive subjects for his camera. In the town, also, there are many things of interest that should not escape the traveller. The manufacture of curiosities in brass is carried on extensively, and, although it is perhaps easier to buy the finished article in Colombo, whither it is usually sent as soon as fashioned, the visitor to Negombo should inspect the primitive methods by which the natives produce many articles of real merit. An old Dutch fort of the year 1678, still mounting two guns, will attract attention. This was originally the site of a stockade erected in earlier times by the Portuguese, who held Negombo as a sanitarium ; but their conquerors, the Dutch, who came into possession of Negombo early in the seventeenth century, were prompt to perceive the commercial value of the district and its suitability for the cultivation of cinnamon ; and to the end that they might exploit the land to the fullest advantage they converted the stockade into a considerable fortress, with four batteries, which enabled them to control the natives who were within their reach and to protect their gangs of cinnamon searchers and peelers. Within this old fortress are now the courts and offices of the Government. A large proportion of the inhabitants of Negombo are stead- fast adherents of the Roman faith, a heritage which has descended to them from the Portuguese. Their church of St. Mary, which has been under construction for about fifteen years, is well worth a visit. The magnificent altar of marble has alone cost about twenty thousand rupees, mainly con- tributed by the poor fisherfolk, who systematically apply a certain proportion of their catch to the fund required. Negombo may be explored without much expense, the rates of carriage hire being very moderate. From 6 a.m. to 7 p.m., Rs.4; any six consecutive hours, Rs.2; one hour, R.i; each additional hour, 75 cents. The average temperature of Negombo is 8o° F., and the annual rainfall 69 inches. USEFUL INFORMATION FOR VISITORS TO CEYLON. CURRENCY. British sovereigns are legal tender at the rate of £i for 15 rupees. The silver coins in use in Ceylon are Indian rupees and the decimal coinage of Ceylon consisting of 50 cents (half rupee), 25 cents (quarter rupee), and 10 cents (one tenth of the rupee). The bronze coinage consists of five-cent, one-cent, half-cent, and quarter-cent pieces. BOAT HIRE IN THE HARBOUR OF COLOMBO. For Steam Launches, Baals anal Canoes. Per Head. From landing jetty to any vessel, or vice versa, or from one vessel to another within the Break- water 25 cents For the return journey ... ... ... ... ... 2^ cents [In each case between 7 p.m. and 6 a.m., 40 cents.] The above fares include one hour's detention for boats and canoes. For every subsequent hour's detention 40 cents between 6 a.m. and 7 p.m., and 50 cents between 7 p.m. and 6 a.m., per boat (not passenger). Two children under ten count as an adult ; children under two go free. Special agreement must be made for boats or canoes required for special service. For Baggage. Chairs, hand-bags, or straps of rugs (with owner) Free ,, ,, ,, (without owner) 5 cents each Small packages (up to 33 in. by 19 in. by 18 in.) 10 to 15 cents Large boxes or cases ... ... ... ... ... 25 cents Disputes should be referred to the Jetty Sergeant, while gross im- position or incivility can be reported to the Master Attendant (Harbour Master), whose office is in the Custom House, and who in all matters connected with the wharf and the shipping acts as Police Magistrate. 236 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY GUIDES. Licensed Guides wearing dark blue coats with green facings can be engaged at the Guides' Shelter near the landing jetty. The fee is 50 cents for the first hour and 25 cents for each additional hour. Rs. c. Rs c. 4 5° • •■ 3 2 50 . 1 5° 50 . .. 40 1 . 75 50 . .. 3° RATES OF CARRIAGE HIRE IN COLOMBO. 1st Class 2nd Class For carriages drawn by one horse : — From 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. Any six consecutive hours between 6 a.m. and 7 p.m. ... For half-an-hour For one hour For ever}' subsequent hour or portion [The charges are for a whole carriage, not for each passenger.] Between 7 p.m. and 6 a.m. one-third more. Beyond Municipal limits (outside the toll-bars) an agreement should be made, otherwise the rate demanded is generally 75 cents per mile, including return journey, but exclusive of tolls. The usual fare for a carriage to Mount Lavinia and back or to Cotta and back is Rs. 5, ill addition to payment of toll. If extortionate fares are demanded, as they often are, the driver should be asked to produce the fare table, which he is bound to carry; though no one is likely, if well served, to object to an advance, by way of a fourboirc , on the strictly legal fare. Rates foe 'Rickshas. Not exceeding ten minutes ... Each half-hour Each hour For each subsequent half-hour Between 7.30 p.m. and 6 a.m. one-third extra. By Day Rs. c. Extra By Night Rs. c. 10 •• 5 25 ... 5 ^0 ... 10 10 ... s INDEX Abhayagiri}'a Dagaba, 194-195 Adam's Peak, 130, 131, 132 Hotel, 129 Agra-oya, 134 Agrapatana, 134 Ahangama, 65 Alawwa, So Allagalla, 82, S3, S5 Alutgama, 56 Aluwihare, 11S, 119 Ambagamuwa, 12S Ambalangoda, 58, 59 Ambanpola, 172 Ambastala Dagaba, 177 Ambawcla, 14S Ambepussa, So Angulana, 40 Anuradhapura, 172-202 Areca palms, 220 Arrack, 52 Attractions of Ceylon, 1 Avisawella, 224 I! Badulla, 153 Balpitiya, 5S Bambalapitiya, 34, 35 Bandarawela, 153 Banyan tree, 16 Bentota, 57 Beruwala, 54, 56 Bo-tree, Ancient, 1S0, 181 Boat hire in harbour of Colombo, 23 s Borella, 12 Brazen Palace, 1S5 Brookside, 167 C Canoes, Sinhalese, 6 Carriage hire, 235 Cathedral of Saint Thomas, 18 Santa Lucia, 18 Chatham Street, 9 Chavakachcheri, 207 Chunakam, 214 Cinnamon culture, 44, 45, 46 Gardens, Colombo, 17, 35 Climate, 2, 3 Coconut cultivation, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79 Colombo, The approach to, 4 , The Fort, 7 Cotta, 219 Customs, 6 D Dalada, Anuradhapura, 200, 201 Dambula, 119, 120 Dawson, 87 Dehiowita, 22^ Dehiwala, 36, 37 Dekanda Valley, S3, S5 Dewale, Definition "1, 87 Dhobies, iq Dimbula, 133 Djyatalawa, j 53 Dodanduwa, 61 Dodanwala, 88, 89 Dolosbage, 127 Dumbara, 10; Edinburgh Crescent, 16 Elara, 184 Elephant Pass, 206 Embekke, 88 F.mbilmigama, 88 Etwehera Dagaba, 176 F Fishing industry, 36 Flora, 3 Flower Road, iS Flying foxes, 98 Fort, Colombo, Plan of the, 7 , Railway station, 12, 31, 3 2 2 3 3 INDEX Gadaladeniya, SS, 3S1 Galboda, 12S Galgamuwa, 172 Galle, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65 Galle Face, 13 Hotel, 14 Gampola, 125, 126, 127 Ganewatte, 168, 171 Garden Club, The Colombo, 16 Giant's Tank, 203 Ginigathena Pass, 228 Gintota, 61 Golf Links, Colombo, 17 Grand Pass, 12 Green Path, 16, 18, 35 Guides, 13 Guildford Crescent, 65 H Habarane, 123 Hakgalla, 165 Hantanne, 105 Hanwella, 216, 223 Haputale, 152 Hatton, 129 Henaratgoda, 72 Hikkaduwa, 61 Hog's Back Tunnel, 12S Ilomagama, 220 Horton Place, 17 Horton Plains, 1 51 Hotel, Bristol, 7 , Carlton House, 156 , Galle Face, 7 , Grand, 156 , Grand Oriental, 7 , Mount Lavinia, 39 , New Keena, 156 , St. Andrews, 156 Hunupitiya, 71 I Induruwa, 57 Isurumuniya, 1S2 J Ja-ela, 231 Jaffna, 20S-213 Jak trees, 220, 221 Jewellers, 10 Jetawanarama, 196, 197 Jinrickshaw hire, 236 Kadugannawa, Dewales at, 87 Kaduwela, 216 Kalutara, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52 Kamburugamuwa, 66 Kandana, 231 Kandapola, 166, 167 Kandy, 99-115 , Arrival of the British at, 100 , Climate of, 104 , History of, 100 , Hotels of, 103 Lake, 101 , Map of, 102 , Population and area, 103 Kankesanturai, 214 Kanthalai, 123 Karuwanella, 225 Katugastota, 116 Katukurunda, 55 Katunayake, 231 Kegalle, Sr, 228 Kelani Valley, 215-229 Kelaniya, 69 , Making tiles at, 70 River, 70 , Scene on the river, 70 Temple, 71 Kodikamam, 207 Kollupitiya, 14, 35 Kosgoda, 57 Kotagala, 132 Kurunegala, 169, 170 Labugama, 223 Lake of Colombo, 14 Lankatilake, 8S, 89 Lunawa, 40 M Madawachchi, 202 Maggona, 56 Mahaiyawa, 116 Mahamega, 17S, 179 Maha Sen, 196 ■ Seya, 175 Mahaweliganga, 116 Mahinda, 177 Maho, 171 Mankulam, 206 Map of Anuradhapura, 173 Fort of Colombo, 7 Kandy, 102 Peradeniya Gardens, 90 the railways, facing -p. 1 INDEX 239 Maradana statical, 31 Matale, 117, 118 Matara, 66, 67, 6S Mihintale, 174 Minheria, 123 Mirigama, 75 Monsoons, 2 Moonstones, Architectural, 198, 190 Moratuwa, 40, 41, 42, 43 Lagoon, 42 Mount Lavinia, 3$, 39 Museum, Colombo, 14, 16, 17 of Art at Kandy, 10S Mutwall, iS N Nalande, 119, 120 Nanuoya, 14S, 154, 155 National Bank of India, 11 Navatkuli, 207 Nawalapitiya, 1 28 Xegombo, 231-234 Nilganga, 6S Northern Line itinerary, 16S-214 Nugedoda, 219 Nuwara Lliya, 156-165 , amusements, 162, 165 climate, 160 Golf Club, 162 , Season of, 160 O Ohiya, 150, 1^1 1'adukka, 220 Paiyagala, 55 Pallai, 207 Palmyra cultivation, 20S Panedure, 47 Pannapitiya, 219 Pansala, Definition of, 87 Papaw, 94, 95 Paranthan, 206 Park Street, Colombo, 14 Pattipola, 14S Peradeniya, 90 Botanic Gardens, 90-99 Junction, 91, 125 , map of Gardens, 90 Pettah, 32 Pidurutallagalla, 161 Point Pedro, 207 Pokunas, 190, 193, 194 Polgahawela, 81 Polonnaruwa, 123 Post Office, The General, S Potuhera, 16S Poya-ge, 87 Prince of Wales' College, 40 Pussellawa, 127 Puwakpitiya, 223 Queen Street, Colombo, 9 Queen's Ifouse, Colombo, 8 R Racecourse, Colombo, 17 Ragalla, 167 Ragama, 71, 72 Railway regulations, 24-29 , animals, 28 , bicycles, 29 , break of journey, 27 , children, 27 , horses and vehicles, 28 , invalids' accommoda- tion, 25 j luggage, 24 , petrol, 2S , special terms for par- ties, 28 , special trains, 26 , telegrams, 28 , tickets, 27 Railway, The, 19 , Coast Line, 20, 32 , Kelani Valley Line, 23, 215- 229 , Main Line, 20 , Matale Line, 20, 116 , Negombo Line, 230-234 , Northern Line, 20, 16S , Udapussellawa Line, 23, 155 , list of stations, 29, 30 , refreshment cars, 22, 23 , rolling stock, 23 , sleeping cars, 21, 23 , workshops, 22 Rainfall, 2 Rambodde, 127 Rambukkana, 82 Rameseram, 203 Ratnapura, 4S, 51, 224, 225 Reservoir at Kandy, 113, 114 Royal College, 12 Rozelle, 129 Ruanweli Dagaba, 186-191 Ruanwella, 225, 226 Rubber, 72, 73, 74 ?4° INDEX St. Clair Falls, 133 St. Joseph's College, 14, 15 St. Thomas' College, iS Siduwa Road, 231 Sigiri, 120, I2i, 122 Slave Island, 14, 33, 3^ Talawa, 172 Talawakele, 133 Talipot palms, 81, 82 Talpe, 6q Tea planting, 134-147 Technical school, 12 Temperature, 2 Temple of the Tooth, 105, 106 Thuparama at Anuradhapura, 180 Tiles, Manufacture of, 70 Tissa, 177 Tobacco, 20S, 209, 211 Toddy, 52 Toluwila, 202 Tramways, Colombo, 10, 12 Trincomali, 123, 124 U Udapussellawa, 167 Ukuwela, 117 Ulapane, 127 Union Place, 14. 15 United Club, 165 Uva, 149-153 Vauxhall Road, 14, 15 Vavuniya, 204 Veyangoda, 74, 75 Victoria Arcade, 11 Park, 14, 16, 17, 35 W Wadduwa, 4S Vvaga, 223 Wanni, 204, 205 Watagoda, 147 Watawala, 129 Wattegama, 116 Weligama, 66 Wellawa, 171 Wellawatta, 33, 34, 35 Wihare, Definition of, 87 Wolfendahl, 18 World's End, 152 Yapahuwa, 171 Yatiyantota, 226 York Street, 10 p.y Cassell and Company, Limited, La Belle Sauvage, London, E.C. Grand Oriental Hotel, COLOMBO, CEYLON. Facing the Harbour, offers a (magnificent view of the surrounding Coast, and is in close proximity to the Post and Telegraph lOffices, Banks, Shipping Agencies, Customs, and a few minutes drive from the Railway Station and Cinnamon Gardens. Electric Fans in Bedrooms and Public Rooms. Suites of Rooms, Private, Dining, Reading, and Drawing Rooms. The only Hotel in Colombo with Tropical Garden. The Hotel Orchestra plays during Tiffin (Luncheon) and Dinner every day, and at special Garden Concerts on Wednesday and Sunday Evenings. POSITION AND CUISINE UNSURPASSED IN CEYLON. Special Terms for Families and Visitors making a prolonged stay. Cook's Coupons accepted. THE COLOMBO HOTELS COMPANY, Ltd., Proprietors. Telegrams: "GRAND, COLOMBO." Si vS to o o o H O u < a « g S -g * K § 8> « C - rt T3 <2 -S « -g rf H HI *-£° •a o X X P* w as iS d g B 3 rt rt Cm •,%*^N iX o ■' QUEEN S HOTEL KANDY. ESTABLISHED 1849 Extensively) Enlarged and Improved, Lift. Electric Light throughout. Baths on all Floors. Superior Accommodation for 250 Visitors. This First-Class Hotel Is 1,700 feet above Sea level and occupies the best Site in the Mountain Capital, overlooking the lovely Lake, Mountains, Esplanade, and the Ancient Temple of the Buddhist Religion, the Shrine of Buddha's Tooth. Within Three Minutes Drive of the Railway Station. Four Trains to and from Colombo Daily. ALL TRAINS ARE MET BY HOTEL PORTERS AND CARRIAGES. PRIVATE CARRIAGES. J>' CHARGES MODERATE. On parle Franqais. Man Spricht Deutsch. Telegraphic Address : M. FRIEDHOFF, •QUEEN'S, KANDY." Manager. WALKERS' GARAGE. SITUATED AT SLAVE ISLAND, COLOMBO. Only a Few Minutes Drive from the Passenger Jetty, the Galle Face and Grand Oriental Hotels. HIGH GLASS CARS FOR HIRE BY HOUR, DAY, OR TOUR. Please ask for Walkers' Motor Guide through Ceylon. Giving full particulars of Tariff, &c, and description of the principal trips that can easily be made. Rates are Moderate and Fully Inclusive. Special Terms for Long 23* Engagements. WALKER, SONS & CO., COLOMBO, CEYLON. Telegraphic Address: "WALKERS," COLOMBO. Codes: A.B.C. 5th Ed., LIEBER'S, BENTLEY'S Cs WESTERN UNION Telephone Numbers: 142, 189 and 288. ELLERMAN LINES OF STEAMERS. Total fleet 85 steamers. Total gross tonnage over 320,000. Controlling Owner: Sir John R. Ellerman, Bart, CITY LINE. FLEET. Tonnage. Hon C.ty of AgTa ... B 480S 2800 tCity of London .. .. A 9000 7250 tCity of Athens ... ... A 5594 3800 City of Lucknow ., B 3669 1 Sou tCity of Benares... A 6973 4200 City of Madras ... .. B 4684 2700 tCity of Calcutta... A 7512 5000 City of Madrid ... .. B 4899 3000 City of Chester (Buildi ,j;j B 6000 2800 tCity of Manchester .. A 555C 350° City of Colombo ... ... B 5988 3000 City of Naples ... .. B 5739 2500 City of Corinth ... ... A 5443 3S00 ICity of Paris ... .. A 9200 7250 City of Delhi ... B 4443 2IUO City of Sparta ... .. A 5179 3 sou City of Edinburgh ... B 6255 3300 City of Vienna .. A 4672 3250 +City of Glasgow A 6529 4500 tCity of York ... A 77t>5 5^50 tCity of Karachi ... A 5557 3600 New Steamer (Building-) .. B 6000 3600 t Carries also Second Class Passengers. Through Booking Arrangements with the Norddeutscher Lloyd, Bremen. Passengers are booked through by steamers of the City Line from Calcutta, Madras and Colombo, and by the City and Hall Lines from Bombay and Karachi to Suez or Port Said, thence by Norddeutscher Lloyd steamer from Alexandria to Naples and Marseilles, or by Norddeutscher Lloyd from Port Said to Naples, Genoa, Antwerp, Hamburg and Bremen. The cost of railway journey from Suez to Port Said or from Suez to Alexandria is on passenger's account. Interchangeable Return Tickets City Line return tickets to London may be made available to come back by Norddeutscher Lloyd steamer from European ports and Naples, subject to any difference in fares being paid. Other particulars as per special pamphlet. Managers: Messrs. GEORGE SMITH & SONS, 75, Both well Street, Glasgow. For particulars of freight and passage apply to AITKEN, SPENCE & CO., Agents, COLOMBO, CEYLON. Round Ceylon nd to South India and Back by the splendidly appointed steamers LADY BLAKE f LADY McCALLUM. For further particutars apply to WALKER, SONS «3 CO., LTD., Managing Agents, CEYLON STEAMSHIP CO., LIMITED. "BIBBY LINE." Fast Twin Screw Mail and Passenger Steamers. ESTABLISHED 1821. The Bibby Fleet now consists entirely of Twin Screw Steamers, all fitted with bilge keels, and specially built for the First Class Eastern Passenger trade, viz : — I CHESHIRE STAFFORDSHIRE DERBYSHIRE WORCESTERSHIRE HEREFORDSHIRE WARWICKSHIRE LEICESTERSHIRE GLOUCESTERSHIRE (building) These fast and powerful Sleamers (specially constructed by Messrs. Harland and Wolff, Belfast, for the Eastern Trade) are of the most modern type, and uniformly provided with every possible comfort for passengers. The Saloon State Rooms, etc., are amidship and fitted for first class passengers only. The State Rooms throughout the fleet are placed entirely on the main and promenade decks, thus ensuring ample light and ventilation under all circumstances. Patent mechanical ventilation and refrigerators. Experienced Surgeon and Stewardess carried. Electrical Fans provided in all the cabins free of charge. COLOMBO TO RANGOON.— Regular Sailings every Fortnight. . FARES . mistered Effective Tuns ■image. Horse Fowc Capacity 5775 4,500 about g,030 6,005 4,500 11 9,000 6,636 5,000 ,, 10,000 7,l6o 5,500 ,, IO,aoo 7,182 5>500 ,, 10,000 7,966 5.5oo it Ii,OO0 tt,ooo 6,000 ,, 12,000 8,050 6,000 ,, 12,000 COLOMBO Single. Two R Years' iturn. Rangoon Rs 150 Rs 200 Suez, Ismailia, or Port Said 375 600 Marseilles ... 500 800 London by Sea 550 850 London, Overland ... 575 950 London by Sea, returning from Marseilles / 825 Marseilles, returning from Liverpool by Sea \ First Class Railway Tickets between Marseilles and London issued at Rs. 75 each. Children under 12 years, travelling with Parents, half-price; one child under three years {no berth provided,) free. Liberal concessions to families. Return Tickets are not subject to any allowances. Particulars on application. Passengers from Southern India, joining steamers at Colombo are refunded the cost of the journey, Tuticorin to Colombo. For further particulars re Freight or Passage, apply to— CARSON & Co., Agents, Colombo MANAGERS OF TOURS AND EXCURSIONS, FORWARDING AGENTS, BANKERS, Etc., Head Office : LUDGATE CIRCUS, LONDON, EC. Victoria Arcade, COLOMBO. Branches also at BOMBAY, CALCUTTA, and RANGOON. Thos. Cook & Son have at all their offices a trained and competent staff, conversant through the experience or years, with all the details of Travel through India, Burmah, and Ceylon, and they respectfully invite all visitors to Ceylon to call at their offices and make arrangements for their Indian Tours. J* Railway Tickets issued over all Railways of India, Burmah, and Ceylon and throughout the World. J* Steamship Tickets issued on all Lines around India and through- out the World. J* Packages of every description stored and shipped as Cargo to all parts of the World, at lowest rates. Passengers' Baggage shipped on steamers at lowest rates. Letters of Credit and Circular Notes issued and cashed.