CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY- FROM DATE DUE PHASED OETERlORATtOM ERAGILE DOES NOT CIRCULATE FRAGILE PAPER Please handle with care, as is brittle. this book, the paper This book was digitized by Microsoft Corporation in cooperation witli Cornell University Libraries, 2007. You may use and print this copy in limited quantity for your personal purposes, but may not distribute or provide access to it (or modified or partial versions of it) for revenue-generating or other commercial purposes. Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028913312 ^^^■^ LUCAa, PHOTO. /p ry PEN PICTURES OF ST. PAUL, MINNESOTA, AND BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OLD SETTLERS, From the Earliest Settlement of the City, up to and Including the Year 1857. V c,. By T. M. NEWSON, a Author of "Life in the Black Hills," *'He-Ie-o-pa," "Indian Legends," "Thrilling Scenes Ameijg the Indians," "Recollections of Eminent Men," Etc. ' VOIvUME I. PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. SAINT PAUL, MINNESOTA; 1886. ■EL f-.l,;RAl;Y A^P^71 Entered accord ng to the Act of Congress in the year 1884, By T. M. NEWSON, In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. ALT, KIGHTS RESERVED. BROWN, TREACY & C0.» PRINTERS, ST. PAUL, MINN. ,i,lrll^>i0.3;; ^. Y'l i;'n:iViM\f ^/ VV, A.SI!, LI \ PREFACE. The grave levels all distinctions. So do Pen Pictures, Each name appears in its individual capacity but in the body of the articles the merits and titles of the persons mentioned are fully set forth. So too as regards engravings. None appear but that of the author for the simple reason that some can aflford a steel engraving while others equally as meritorious cannot, and hence all are placed on a common level. It is possible that I may issue a special edition containing portraits, if the demand should warrant, and in that case none but steel or the very best photographic engravings will be used. And thus I submit to posterity this work. Writing in the day in which the majority of the people described lived, has enabled me to group together a vast amount of reliable information and to procure a better conception of the peculiarities of character than could have been obtained after the parties now living have passed oflF the stage of life. The work embraces a period of twenty years, commencing at 1838 and ending with 1857 inclusive, and treats exclusively of the old settlers of Saint Paul and not of the State at large. It has been my purpose to record impartially every prominent fact and every event transpiring in this period, as well as to obtain all accurate dates and other gorrect information respecting the subjects about which I have written and who have either lived or died during the period covered by my book. In delineating character I have avoided anything which savored of extravagance in my laudations ; and the best evidence that I have been successful in my labors is the commendation of over one hundred citizens of Saint Paul whose verdict can be found at the end of this volume. Hoping that my work will not only meet the approbation of the old settlers themselves and their children, but of the people at large, I submit it to an intelligent and discriminating public. t. m. n. CONTENTS. Historical Events and Biographical Sketches Embraced in the Following Years Inclusive, viz.: 1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842, 1843, 1844, 1845, 1846, 1847, 1848, 1849, 1850, 1851, 1852, 1853, 1854, 1855, 1856, 1857. INDEX TO CONTENTS. Chapter I. — 1838— First White Settler, page 6; First House, 6; Saint Paul, its Origin and Early History, i ; Carver's Cave, 3 ; First Actual Settle- ment, 5 ; Treaty with the Indians, 6. Chapter II.— 1839— First Events, page 8; a Former Slave, Thompson, 9; First Murder, 11; First White Child, 14. Chapter III.— 1840-1— First Events, page 15; Trial of Phelan, 15; Pig's Eye, 16; First Church, 23; Name of St. Paul, 23; First Catholic Priest, 24; Parrant's New Claim, 19; Slavery, 22. Chapter IV.— 1842— First Events, page 27; First American Flag, 29; Saint Paul, 27; An Indian Battle, 30. Chapter V.— 1843— First Events, page 32 ; the Outlook, 38 ; the Central House, 39; Camphor vs. Whisky, 40. Chapter VI.— 1844— First Events, 41; First Frame House, 43; First Grist and Lumber Mill, 44; First Protestant Service, 45; First Drayman, 45. Chapter VII.— 1845-6- First Events, page 46; First Hotel, 47; First Odd Fellow's Funeral, 47; First Cooper and Blacksmith, 48; First Post-office and First Postmaster, 49; a Point on the River, 49; Oldest House in West St. Paul, 51; Red River Carts, 52; First Painter and Artist, 53; Import- ing Flour and Potatoes, sS; Oldest Dwelling House in St. Paul, 56; the Oldest Building on Original Grounds, 57. PEN PICTURES. V Chapter VIII.— 1847— First Events, page 60 ; Fifty Inhabitants, 60 ; First Tavern, 63 ; First Day and Sunday Schools, 63 ; the Wild Hunter's Hotel, 64; the First Physician, 66; the First and Oldest Sunday School, 67; First Steamboat Line, 69; Town Site Surveyed, 71; St. Paul House, 71; Indian Camp Fires, 71; First Tailor, &c., 72; An Eye for an Eye, &c., 72. Chapter IX.— 1848— First Events, page 73; New School House, 73; First Protestant Sermons, 73; Out in the Cold, 73; First Delegate to Congress, 74; Title to Townsite; 74; One Store, 74; A Running Stream and the -Old Castle, 74; City Hall Bell, 76; St. Paul the Capital, 77 ; Only a Village, 79; Swinging on the Garden Gate, 83 ; Somewhat Remarkable, 84 ; Don't Grumble, it is a Law,8S; First Miller, 90; Shooting Duclcs in the City, 90. Chapter X. — 1849 — First Events, page 99 ; Organization of the Territory, 99 ; Population in City and Territory, loo; First Paper, First Editor, First Printing Press, 100; Arrival of Gov. Ramsey, 104; A few Log Houses, 105; Crystallization of Society, 105; First Brick and Stone Buildings, 106; First Protestant Church, 107 ; Room in vrhich the Proclamation was Writ- ten, 107; Meeting of the First Legislature, 107; Celebration of the First Fourth of July, 108; By the River, 109; First Deed, no; Town Growing, III; First Brick Yard, in; Old American House, 112; First Stage Coach and Livery Stable, 113; Origin of our School System, 114; Dividing Line between Civilization and Barbarism, 114; The Oldest Printer, 115; First Real Estate Dealer and First Market Woman, 118; First Burial Ground, 119; St. Paul and Minneapolis one City, 119; First Clergyman, 120; Green Enough to Try It, 128; Wild Turkey vs. Buzzard, 128; Rice Park, 138; Meeting of the First Court, 139; First Hardware and Furniture Store, 139; First Bank, First Masonic Lodge, First Odd Fellows, 141; St. Paul be- comes a Town, 141; On the Bridge at Midnight, 147; First City Justice, 148; First Cletrk of First Court, 150; A Bit of History, 152; Don't Dream Again, 158; Whisky vs. the Barn, 160; Seal of the Old Settlers, 162; Going into the Country, 162; Ramsey County Created, 166; Monk Hall, 169; First Bankers, 170; Just Escaped Lynching, 172; Dark as the D 1, 182; The Contrast, 185 ; Ploughing in the City in 1845, 192. Chapter XI. — 1850 — First Events, page 193; New Year's Calls, 193; No Remarkable Events, 194; Post-ofRce and Letters, 194; First Theatricals, 194; Ramsey's Happy Hit, 196; Old Bets, 197; First Mayor, 200; First Bowling Alley, 201; First Fresh Oysters, 209; First Club House, 209; Chicken Feed and the Indians, 211; Threatened Burning of Ramsey in EfEgy, 212; Ho, the Day is Breaking, 214; Arrival of a Boat, 214; No Great Changes, 215; First Express Messenger, 215; First Brick House on the Bluff, 223; First Kerosene Oil, 228; The Swedish Authoress and the Swedish Singer, 236; First Fire, First Church Bell, First Court House, First Episcopal Church, First Thanksgiving, 240; First Cholera, ti'irst Directory, First Brick Store, 241 ; First Photographer, First Lithograph, 243 ; Talking to the Assessor, 244 ; First Brick Store, 247. Chapter XII. — 1851 — First Events, page 259; Second Meeting of the Legis- lature, 259; Capitol located, 260; First Dramatic Performance, 260;- Squaw Log Drivers, 262 ; " Malice Towards None and Charity for All," 262 ; Fir^t vi PEN PICTURES Concord Stage Coach, 263; A Square Drink and a Free Ride, 263; The Old Stage Times, 264; In the Swearing Car, 264; Indian Fidelity, 265; Touchingly Expressed, 267; Just my Luck, 268; The Express Business, 268; Our Doubts are Traitors, 268; Treaty with the Sioux, 269; The First Bishop, 269; His Death, 271 ; The Red River Carts, 271 ; First City Clerk, 275; Gov. Ramsey Driving Nails, 276; A Thrilling Scene, 2S4; "D the Land," 288; White Bear Lake, 288; The Winslow House, the Cathe- dral, a Whig Organ, Hook and Ladder Company, 290; First Leather Store, 293; Grass and Hazel Nuts on Third Street, 300; Reminiscences, 301; Indians and the Beggar Dance, 303; Indian Mode of Fishing, 304; No Appreciation of Money, 305; The Characters of the Daj', 305; The Oldest Undertaker, 306; Predicting a Collapse, 307; Sauerkraut and Light- ning Rods, 308; Scraps from Memory, 308; Rather Aiiiusing, 309; Dia- mond Cut Diamond, 317; The Great Beyond, 319; Imprisonment for Debt, 320; That Rocking Chair, 324; Now Go On With Your Bidding, 325; The Old Post-office, 329. Chapter XIII.^1852 — First Events, page 334; Opening of the Year, 334; The Third Legislature, 335 ; Death of James M. Goodhue, 335 ; On Foot to Superior, 336; Murders, Brutal Scenes, First Hanging, 337; On Stilts, 344; "I Gather Them In ! I Gather Them In," Mrs. Ramsey, 345; An Interesting Incident, Newson, 347; The Wooden Ham, 366; Bad Luck, 367; Chapter XIV. — 18153 — First Events, page 372; My Arrival in St. Paul, 372. The Fourth Legislature, 374; Events of 1853, 375; Two Bucking Govern- ors, 377; Rice vs. Gorman, 378; Put that Man in the Guard House, 379; Grass in the Streets of St. Paul, 380; Never was There, 381; Log Cabin vs. Merchants Hotel, 381 ; Indian Murder, 382 ; In a Bad Predicament, the Pursuit, Indian Killed, 383; Interesting Incident, 385; New Postmaster) Prairie Chickens,'Murders, 387 ; An Unpleasant Situation, Hole-in-the-Day, 395; Indian White Queen, 396; What is the Use .' 400; The Oldest Banker in the City. 401 ; That Old-fashioned Inn, 409; Incidents in the Life of M. E. Ames, 412; Kissing, 418; Sold the First Groceries, 421. Chaptkr XV. — 1854— First Events, page 426; Capitol Building, 426; News- papers, 427; Great Railroad Excursion, 428; Unsafe Currency, 429; First Execution, 429; That Little Black-eyed Woman, 438; Incidents of Early Journalism, 447; In a Tight Place, 448; Luck, 452 ; Beautiful Girls, 452; Sick, 456; A Retrospect, 464; Force of Habit, 465; "I Remember," 465; "Backward, Flow Backward," 468; The Early Settlers, 471; First Dress- making, 472; Feet not Empty, 483; Parks, 487; Claims to be the First Soldier in the Union Army, 492. Chapter XVI.— 1855— First Events, page 495 ; Condensed Events, 495 ; Emi- grating to the Frontier, 498; Boating, Fire Department, a Year of Immi- gralion, 500; Gloriously Exhilarating, 501 ; A Busy Place, 502 ; A Square Republican Fight, 503; I Know it is All Right, 506; Oldest Dry-Goods House, 509; Excitement in Real Estate, 514; The Old Settler's Heart, 517; Impediments of Life, 519; Musings, 530; The Moon Went Right On, 534; First Billiard and Concert Hall, 542 ; " $5, Just $5," Billy Phillips, 558 ; First News Stand, 555. OF ST. PAUL, MINN. vii Chapter XVII. — 1S56 — First Events, page 563; Auspiciously Begun, 563; Ramsey County, the Prophecy, 564; First Military Company and other Events, 567; First Policemen, 568; Murder and Robbery, 568; The Fuller House, 569; Arrivals, &c., 570, A Memorable Event, 578 ; LightonaDark Subject, 600; Why ? 604; Young Men's Christian Association, 619. Chapter XVIII. — 1857 — First Events, page 630; Culminating Year and Conclusion, 630; Twenty-four Boats at our Levee, 631 ; Foster father, 632 ; Up in a Balloon, 634; Ramsey County Jail, Military Companies, on the War-path, 636; Directory, a Horrible Murder, 63S; Another Murder, 640; Theatres, Constitutional Convention, St. Paul Library, 642; Vigilance Committee, Wabasha Bridge, 644; Twenty Buildings Burned, 646; Con- cert Hall Block, 648; Rumbling of the Cars, District Court, First School House, 654; The Social Element of Early Days, 657; Rather EmDarrass- ing, 664; The Real Estate Mania, 666; The Sunrise Expedition, 667; Rise of Real Estate, 669 ; Three per cent, per Month, 672 ; The Wave Breaks, Hard Times, 675-6; The Capital Removal, Eighth Session of the Legisla- ture, 6S3; Celery vs. Salary, 685; First State Election, 690; First State Legislature, 691 ; "Take a Drink, Sir," 692 ; " Be Brief, Sir," 694; The Long Roll, 695 ; That Mule, 696. Chapter XIX. — Little or No Data, page 699; Early Missionary Labors, 699; Conclusion, Good-bye, 734; Testimonials of 105 Citizens, 735, 736, 737, 738. 739- [I am indebted to Rev, E. D. Neill for courcesieb extended during the preparation of this work.] DEDICATION. TO THE OLD SETTLERS OF ST. PAUL, MINTSTESOTA, THIS VOLUME IS KINDLY DEDICATED BY ONE WHO KNEW MOST OF THEM WHEN LIVING AND RESPECTED THE MEMORIES OF THOSE DEAD. PEN PICTURES. CHAPTER L 1838. FIRST WHITE SETTLER — FIRST HOUSE IN WHAT IS NOW ST. PAUL. ST. PAUL ITS ORIGIN AND ITS EARLY HISTORY. In rapid growth and in material progress St. Paul may be classed among the most remarkable cities of the Northwest. In 1 849 — or thirty-six years ago — when the bill giving Minnesota an existence was first introduced into Congress and by which bill St. Paul became the Capital of the Territory, even then men well posted in geography were utterly ignorant of its whereabouts. It was delineated on no map, known in no history, only recog- nized as somewhere near the Falls of St. Anthony, away off in an indefinable country known only to the savages. In the march of little Qver a quarter of a century it now takes rank ajnong the leading cities of the Union, and in solid growth and prosper- ity astonishes even the most sanguine. ' 1 2 PEN PICTURES History, however Gomplimentary, can never adequately compensate the early settlers of St. Paul for their earnest efforts, and struggles to establish at the head of navigation on the Mis- sissippi River, the foundation for a city, which, in the brief period of the next twenty coming years will rival in commercial greatness and in population any other metropolis in the West, not excepting either Chicago or St. Louis. Its past history and its growth ; its present prospective outlook; the grand empire beyond it yet to be developed ; the opening up of the trade of Japan and China ; the artery of commerce which cleaves its way to the Pacific coast in the completion of the Northern Pacific Railroad ; the great wheat fields tributary to it ; its gridiron of railroad tracks ; its grand wholesale trade reaching into nearly one hundred millions per year ; its increasing manufacturing interests ; its large banking capital — all attest the causes silently operating to produce results- which will astonish the longest head and the most sagacious brain. Coupled with this is a strong probability of the u-nion of the two- cities (Saint Paul and Minneapolis,) not far in the distance, and with these combined elements a power will spring into exist- ence here that will challenge the admiration of the world ; for, at about this point in the dim future, midway of the two oceans, geographically in the center of this great continent, may yet sit in solemn grandeur the Capitol of the American Nation. Con- gress will some day clean up the Mississippi River from this point to the gulf; millions of bushels of -wheat brought here by hundreds of railroad trains will be transported on its bosom to ocean steamers ; rav/ cotton from the plantations of "the south will in turn find its way into our mills, and fabrics manufactured therefrom will go forth to supply the wants of the future empire which will spring up between this city and the Pacific ocean. Iron ore from our mines will enter ou^ blast furnaces and supply the great demands of hundreds of yet unborn cities, while our mineral resources will bring into existence reducing, smelting and refining factories that will employ thousands of men. FATHER LOUIS HENNEPIN. This earnest missionary was no doubt the first white man to visit the site where now stands St. Paul. He ascended the Mis- sissippi River in 1680 — or 205 years ago — but before reaching the OF ST. PAUL, MINN. 3 ground now occupied by the city, was taken prisoner by the Sioux Indians, and in April of that year reached a little bay a short distance below the city, which must have been, from his description, the mouth of Phelan Creek. JONATHAN CARVER. In 1766 — 1 19 years ago, and 86 years after the first visit of Hennepin — Capt. Jonathan Carver, a man of distinction and who had served as an officer in the French and Indian wars, conceived the idea of exploring this then little known and undeveloped region. In the fall of 1 766 he reached this locality and describes " a great cave about thirty miles below the Falls of St. Anthony," in the following accurate manner : " The entrance into it is about ten feet wide; the height of it five feet; the arch within is near fifteen feet high and about thirty feet broad. The bottom of it consists of fine, clear sand. About twenty feet from the entrance of it begins a lake.", The distance from the Falls of St. Anthony is not thirty miles as stated by Carver, but about ten ; by river about twenty. carver's cave. In this cave Carver held a grand council with the Indians and he claims they gave him a deed of a large tract of land embracing the present site of St. Paul, and many acres above the Falls on the east side of the river, in the aggregate one hundred square miles. Above this cave, on the bluff, was the burial-place of the savages, and here to-day can be found many mounds. It was also in this cave where the Indians held their great gatherings, composed of various tribes who congregated here to talk over the " affairs of state " and epjoy their huge pow-wows. Those were happy days for the Aborigines, but now the red men are rarely seen upon our streets, or rarely heard of, except on the extreme frontier. incidents of carver's cave LYMAN DAYTON. The cave alluded to is at the foot of what is now known as Dayton's bluff, about one-half mile below our present levee, with- in the city limits, and on the east bank of the Mississippi River. The bluff derives its name from Mr. Lyman Dayton, who former- 4 PEN PICTURES ly owned all the property on the plateau above and much of that in the swamp below, now occupied by the various railroad com- panies. He was an energetic, stirring, liberal, kind-hearted man, and had he lived he would have been immensely rich. He was portly in person, quick in speech and action, rugged in looks, performed many good acts when living, and now when dead his memory is kindly cherished by all the old settlers who knew him well and appreciated his worth. He left a widow and an only son, the former living at a place called Dayton, on the upper Mississippi, and the latter now a resident of Minneapolis. THE OWNERS OF THE DEED. Nearly thirty years ago I traveled with a lady and gentle- man on their way East who had visited St. Paul to claim their possession as transferred to them by the heirs of Jonathan Carver, to the immense tract of land already alluded to, having in their keeping a deed of this then and now immensely valuable proper- ty, and who were greatly disappointed on searching the records to find that while such a deed was given to Carver by the Indians, yet when the land was ceded to the United States no mention was made of the transaction ; that is, the deed was not confirmed, and hence the title was not perfect. The gentleman was then sick and subsequently died, but for courtesies extended to him by myself on the journey, his widow years afterwards gave me a copy of the alleged deed, and I presented it to the Academy of Science. That institution united with the Historical Society, and when this was burned out in the old Capitol building the deed went up in smoke as many other grand schemes of men have disappeared in the black clouds of disappointment. What would have been the result if these parties had succeeded in perfecting their title nobody can tell, but this little incident is interesting as connected with the early growth and history of St. Paul. In 1848 Dr. Carver, grandson of Jonathan, visited our city in search of his property, but Congress would not recognize his claim and the matter quietly dropped. THEN AND NOW. Over twenty-five years ago Carver's cave was a place of rura:l beauty and attractiveness. Many traditionary legends of the red OF ST. PA UL, MINN. 3 men lingered around its peculiar history, and tourists entered its cavernous mouth, dallied with its clear water, wrote their names upon its transitory sand walls, and sometimes penetrated its winding, hidden rivulet as it laughingly gurgled its way on to the Mississippi river. Then nature was dressed in her gayest attire. Then I could pick my way along the bank of the river amid the flowers that bloomed on every side. Now the whole plateau or swanipy land, embracing several acres over which I then passed, is one solid network of rails on which 9,226 trains or 45,636 cars pass per month, or over 250 trains of cars daily come and go into the saintly city of St. Paul. (This includes freight as well as passenger trains ; of the latter there are about 188 daily.) The entrance to the cave is at present blocked by a railroad track. Its capacious chamber is filled with beer barrels. Its pearly stream has ceased to flow. It is slowly dying of civiliza- tion, and in a few years will be known only in history, and yet to those who remember it in its palmiest days, it brings up many memories of by gone hours and recalls many features of old friends who sleep the silent sleep of death. And so the years go by, the tread of population increases, and the landmarks of the past are obliterated by the swelling wave of the human race which pushes barbarism to the mountains, crowds the Indians beyond the plains and harnesses nature to do the bidding of dominant man. FIRST ACTUAL SETTLEMENT IN THIS REGION. In the year 1805 — eighty years ago — a treaty was made with the Sioux Indians, who at that time owned all the land on the west side of the Mississippi River, by Lieut. Z. M. Pike, (after whom Pike Island, at the base of Fort Snelling is named, and which island can be plainly seen from the cars on the left coming from the fort, or on the right going to the fort,) whereby they ceded to the United States a reservation at the mouth of the Minnesota River; and in 1819 — or sixty-six years ago — the present Fort Snelling was commenced, and this is really the first actual settlement in this region, antedating that at St. Paul or "Pig's Eye." This year, or in 18 19, Mackinaw boats loaded with government supplies, were poled up the Mississippi River 900 miles from St. Louis to Fort Snelling, the time thus occupied 6 PEN PICTURES being three months. Now palatial steamers can bring the same kind of goods from the same points to Fort Snelling inside of five days.- We really do not comprehend the march of events and the progress of the age in which we live, until we dig up the past and place it side by side with the present, and then we begin to realize what Galileo many years ago said, that " the world does move," and surrounding events demonstrate that it is moving now faster than at any other period in its history. TREATIES WITH THE INDIANS FOR PORTIONS OF THEIR LAND^ " pig's EYE." Thirty-two years after the first treaty, or about 1837, t^^ Chippewas ceded a portion of their land east of the Mississippi River — they claiming all the land on the east side of the river and the Sioux all the land on the west side, the river being the boundary line — and part of this land ceded by the Chippewas is the present site of St. Paul. Settlers of, the Red River of the North mostly of French extraction, who had been driven off the Fort Snelling reservation ceded by the Sioux, settled upon this ceded land from the Chippewas, and hence commenced the nucleus from which a great city sprang into being and a greater city is yet to be in the march of years. A Canadian voyageur, with a bad reputation and sinister features, by the name of Pierre Parrant, has the honor of being the first settler of our Saintly City, From all accounts he was an ugly looking fellow but no doubt brave. He had an eye that resembled that of a pig, and hence the place was early called " Pig's Eye," which euphonious name it bore for several years. ' first HOUSE IN ST. PAUL IN 1 838, OR 47 YEARS AGO. Parrant built the fii-st log house in St. Paul in i 838, or forty- seven years ago, and at the close of that year nine cabins graced the future city, composed of a motley group of Canadians and Swiss French. Of course Parrant had to live, so he opened up a trade with the soldiers and Indians of poisonous whisky, and no doubt for a time both he and his fellow traders did a thriving business. I believe he subsequently moved down the river about three miles to a place now called " Pig's Eye," but what finally became of him nobody seems to know. All great men have OF ST. PA UL, MINN. 7 "histories of their early struggles and poverty, but in the end they get the better of them, so if this law applies to cities as no