QJatttcU Hniuctrattg Sjtbrarg 
 
 atljata, Nen) ^nrk 
 
 BERNARD ALBERT SINN 
 
 COLLECTION 
 
 NAVAL HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY 
 
 THE GIFT OF 
 
 BERNARD A. SFNN, '97 
 
 1919 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of this book is in 
 the Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028732885 
 
Rear-Admiral John Woodward Philip, U. S. N. 
 
LIFE AND ADVENTURES of 
 
 JACK PHILIP 
 
 REAR ADMIRAL UNITED STATES NAVY 
 
 A MEMORIAL MAGAZINE IN FOUR NUMBERS 
 
 MAY, JUNE, JULY a f, J AUGUST, I903 
 
 By EDGAR STANTON MACLAY, A.M. 
 
 Author of: "A History of the United States Navy"; "A History of 
 American Privateers " ; " Reminiscences of the Old Navy." 
 Editor of the Journal of William Maclay (U. S. Senator from Penn- 
 sylvania, 1789-1791), and of the Diary of Samuel Maclay 
 (U. S. Senator from Pennsylvania, 1802-1809) 
 
 Assisted by BARRETT PHILIP 
 
 ff^ith Contributory and Anecdotal Articles by 
 
 WILLIAM McKINLEY 
 
 t Our Martyr President 
 
 ALFRED THAYER MAHAN 
 
 Captain U. S. N. (Retired^ 
 
 JOHN DAVIS LONG 
 
 Ex-Secretary of tlie Navy 
 
 WILLIAM THOMAS SAMPSON 
 
 Rear-Admiral U. S. N. 
 
 MARY PHILIP WHEELOCK 
 
 Sister of Rear-Admiral Philip 
 
 DAVID HOWARD TRIBOU 
 
 Cliaplain U. S. N. 
 
 HENRY B. F. MACFARLAND 
 
 Pres. Board of Commissioners 
 District of Columbia 
 
 ROBERT EDWARD STEELE 
 
 Chaplain U. S. N. 
 
 GEORGE BEALL BALCH 
 
 Rear-Admiral U. S. N. (Retired) 
 
 FRANCIS JOHN HIGGINSON 
 
 Rear-Admiral U. S. N. 
 
 HENRY CLAY TAYLOR 
 
 Rear-Admiral U. S. N. 
 
 FRANCIS TIFFANY BOWLES 
 
 Rear-Admiral U. S. N. 
 
 WILTON MERLE SMITH 
 EDWARD BIDDLE LATCH 
 
 Chief Engineer U. S. N. (Retired) 
 
 MARCUS H. ROGERS 
 DANIEL DELEHANTY 
 
 Captain U. S. N. (Retired) 
 
 FRANCIS J. HAESELER 
 
 Lieutenant U. S. N. 
 
 The Baker & Taylor Co. 
 
 33-37 East 17th Street, Union Square North 
 
 new york city 
 
 if- 
 
 4 
 
By 
 
 Copyright, 1903, 
 Barrett Philip. 
 
tlTo tl^e manors of t^at 
 <Sallant ^raman ana C^ri0tian ©mtlnnan 
 
 SDeDtcateu 
 
 "Friendships are beacon lights illuminating our pathway- 
 through life — and the longer they bum the brighter they become. 
 Happy the man who can pursue his journey to the end without 
 his pathway being darkened by the extinguishment of one of 
 
 these lights!" 
 
 Francis John Higginson, 
 
 Rear- Admiral, U. S. N. 
 
iBvttutiiat ^an^ion 
 
 September 1, 1900. 
 
 Admiral Philip's distinguished service in the war with Spain 
 won for him a high place in the regard and affection of the American 
 people and was a fitting climax to his many years of duty faithfully 
 and most efficiently performed. 
 
 His untimely death will be long regretted, not only by those who 
 were intimate with his sterling character and genial personality, but 
 by all to whom his name and fame were known. 
 
 WILLIAM McKINLEY. 
 
EXPLANATORY NOTE 
 
 THERE have been few officers in the United 
 States navy whose careers have been so nearly 
 ideal as that of John Woodward Philip. His 
 life-long devotion to duty, his conscientious carr3dng-on 
 of routine in the many weary years of peace — weary at 
 least to sea^-warriors — his entire innocence of newspaper 
 press bureaus or pohtico-social influence, his superb con- 
 duct in battle, his modest, sailor-like acknowledgment 
 of the plaudits of his countrymen, and, more than aU, 
 his beautiful Christian character have pecuUarly endeared 
 him to the American people. As a standard of naval 
 excellence for the emulation of younger officers, the 
 career of Phihp is unsurpassed and cannot fail of 
 beneficial results. 
 
 To know "Jack" Phihp — as he always will be affec- 
 tionately known by those close to him — ^was to love him; 
 and, perhaps, the grandeur of his character is nowhere 
 shown to better advantage than in his private letters 
 and diary in which he unconsciously displays the fuU 
 brilliancy of his soul. It is generally supposed — and 
 to some extent true — ^that a diary is merely a monotonous 
 entry of dates, conditions of the weather and other 
 matters of pxu-ely individual interest. An exception 
 must be made in the case of Phihp. His private papers 
 are replete with observations of the keenest human in- 
 
t) EXPLANATORY NOTE 
 
 terest, while his sense of humor — so characteristic of the 
 man — ^bubbles through all his writings, rendering them 
 in the highest degree readable. In his journal of a 
 cruise in the Far East, 1865-68, are many incidents 
 of historic value, his landing on Chinese soil and capture 
 of the notorious outlaw, Hon, easUy ranking with the 
 most brilliant of our "lesser" naval exploits. 
 
 As a means of presenting these valuable records in the 
 most readable form, the somewhat unusual plan of 
 having the main narrative illuminated, here and there, by 
 " cross-hghts " from the pens of those who knew Philip 
 best, has been ^.dopted. The writer desires to acknowl- 
 edge the great assistance he has received from Barrett 
 Philip. To him belongs the credit for the conception 
 of this work. 
 
 There has been some dispute as to the precise wording 
 of Philip's now famous exclamation at the naval battle 
 of Santiago: "Don't cheer, men; those poor fellows are 
 dying!" In some popular accounts the word "devils'' 
 is substituted for " fellows." It has been the privilege 
 of the writer to read through the private papers of 
 Philip for a period extending over forty years, and no 
 where does the word " devil" or any approach to profane 
 speech appear. It is highly inferential, therefore, that 
 Philip, on this supreme occasion, was not guilty of any 
 looseness of expression. E. S. M. 
 
 New York, April, 1903. 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 Captain A. T. Mahan, U. S. N. (retired) 
 
 ONE of the first impressions made upon an 
 observant reader, by the articles which form 
 part of this work, can scarcely faU to be how 
 much of interesting incident, pathetic, amusing, char- 
 acteristic, what not, must appear in the common daily 
 life of any man, if only it were duly recorded; but 
 which most often passes away with him and is lost, 
 unless some unusual circimistances, as in the case of 
 Admiral Philip, lead to a collection of reminiscences, 
 before the deaths of those in whose memories they he 
 hid shaU have covered the man's career with a veil of 
 almost total oblivion. 
 
 Admiral Philip, however, was not an ordinary man.' 
 That he had a strongly marked personality, as well as 
 a varied experience of life, is sufl&ciently testified, even 
 to the most casual reader of the following sketches. 
 Written, as these are, by many different persons, each 
 cannot fail to emphasize from his own point of view 
 those particular traits of character, or those especial in- 
 cidents, which his own individuahty has made him most 
 quick to appreciate; but, nevertheless, the common hu- 
 manity which underhes all our superficial diversities wiU 
 also give its own coloring to each narrative. The uni- 
 formity of impression hence resulting, the impremed- 
 itated accord of many witnesses, will give assurance of 
 the broad outlines defining the man's character, of the 
 
8 INTRODUCTION 
 
 basis of principle and belief upon which conduct rested,' 
 of the nature, original or modified, which showed itself 
 spontaneously when any special call elicited an ex- 
 ternal manifestation of the inner spirit that made him 
 what he was; when, as it were, out of the abundance of 
 the heart the very man himself has spoken, whether by 
 uttered word or by silent deed. 
 
 I suppose that, with so many independent narratives 
 placed in my hands, with the request to prepare an in- 
 troduction to them, it is proper that I should contribute 
 — not reminiscences of my own, but — an attempt, at 
 least, to gather together into one the result of the recol- 
 lections and of the traits of character presented by the 
 other writers. To this, and to this only, in the scheme 
 of a memorial to Philip, could my relations to his life at 
 all summon me; for, whUe I knew him for over forty 
 years, and always on terms of pleasantest intimacy when 
 we met, our association was ever interrupted and in- 
 frequent. Except for the three months of practice cruise 
 in 1857, during the summer after we both entered the 
 Naval Academy, we never sailed in the same ship, and 
 only for brief intervals were even in the same squad- 
 ron. I have, indeed, my own clear and vivid sense of 
 his personality, for he was not a man to glide smoothly 
 over one's consciousness, even in a brief interview, and 
 to leave no abiding trace upon memory; his glance, face 
 and speech, keen and trenchant as a razor, were equally 
 incisive and immediate in the effect produced. One 
 understood something about him at once, and much 
 more than is commonly gathered about the average man 
 in an even longer period; but it was not my privilege 
 to enjoy with him that continued intimacy, in virtue of 
 which one can at last say that he knows his fellow. 
 
 Philip was fortunate in the choice, or chance, of his pro- 
 
"when a man marries 
 
 fession. Whatever in ultimate analysis was the ground- 
 work of his native character, he found himself at once 
 thoroughly at home and at ease in the seaman's calling. 
 I remember that even in that early cruise, 1857, when 
 probably he first saw the sea — for he came from inland 
 — ^there was a happy forwardness about him in all the 
 workings of the ship that showed he was enjoying him- 
 self. Whatever was going on, if you remembered any- 
 thing about it afterward, you were pretty sure to re- 
 membfT also Phihp's face, keen and smiling among the 
 throng. He stood out among others by dint of the con- 
 stant repetition with which the eye seemed ever invol- 
 untarily to Ught upon him, and simply because he was 
 always there, where, the weight of the work fell; at the 
 bunt in furling, at the earring in reefing, and close to the 
 block in a heavy drag. He was not one to be found 
 "walking away with the slack," unless conditions Justi- 
 fied the indulgence in practical humor — ^which was not 
 the least developed of his characteristics. 
 
 This early fondness for the sea remained always. 
 Coupled with the diffidence in women's company which 
 so strongly marked him, and which is mentioned by 
 more than one of the writers following, it prevented for 
 many years the intrusion into his affections of the rival, 
 whose demoralizing influence the profession in all ages 
 has been prompt to recognize. The droll story told of 
 Philip in Captain Delehanty's paper is the echo of Lord 
 St. Vincent a century ago, "When a man marries, he 
 is d — d for the service ' ' ; and the remark was certainly 
 not original with St. Vincent. There is in this, doubt- 
 less, a certain amotmt of humorous exaggeration; yet 
 there are few ofiicers who have not known cases where it 
 was literally true, and all have seen in many instances the 
 weakening effects of the struggle between the two 
 
10 INTRODUCTION 
 
 masters — the home and the profession — which is, per- 
 haps, of all hardships the one most pecuUar to the 
 naval career. Philip married comparatively late in life; 
 and hence, for many years, while habit was hardening 
 into character, he ran his naval race in the light of a 
 single eye, undistracted by cross-lights and unimpeded 
 by external cares. His heart was in his command, and 
 nowhere else; he had at that time what Marryatt called 
 "the bad taste to prefer a fine ship to a fine lady." Thus 
 it happened that, beyond almost all men of his time, 
 he was recognized as typically the seaman; not merely in 
 professional capacity, for there he had many rivals, but 
 in that strong personal identification and attachment 
 which have found definition in the forcible old phrase — 
 "All for the service. " 
 
 Under these circimistances, it would be expected that 
 the finer type of naval character would develop freely in 
 him and become predominant; and so it was. Those 
 traits which the consensus of professional opinion — ^the 
 best qualified of critics — ^has pronounced to be foremost in 
 the equipment of a seaman and an of&cer were promi- 
 nent in him. First of all, the sense of duty, the tendency 
 to foster which is one of the highest and most distinctive 
 privileges of a profession which has many drawbacks to 
 overweigh. 
 
 The sobering, yet stimulating, effect of responsibility 
 is doubtless felt in every profession, and receives noble 
 illustration in all; but the comparatively small induce- 
 ment which the prospects of the naval profession offer 
 for the play of self-interest throws men back, in the many 
 moments of monotonous weariness, ahnost wholly upon 
 the sense of duty as the suflacient incentive to action, 
 until the constant repetition of willing obedience to its 
 dictates results in habit practically unconscious. So 
 
"in the narbow life of a ship " 11 
 
 too, the visible reliance and utter dependence of the 
 small ship family upon the fidelity of each member to 
 his allotted function in the organization, are so con- 
 stantly obvious in the exigencies of sea life, that obli- 
 gation cannot be ignored as easily as it can in occupa- 
 tions where a man's relations to others, and the effect of 
 bis action upon their weUare, are less immediately and 
 less constantly evident. It is easy to forget that which 
 is not under one's eyes ; but in the narrow life of a ship 
 no permanent condition can long remain out of sight, 
 or be thrust out of mind, as the homes of the rich can 
 forget the slums. And hence, also, it is that the superior 
 can enforce unpleasant tasks, and, as it were, excuse 
 his own insistence upon them by the same appeal to 
 duty, knowing that not only it cannot be resisted, but 
 that also it relieves him from the imputation of incon- 
 siderateness to which a distasteful order is apt to 
 give rise. The feeling, therefore, is aU-pervasive, thor- 
 oughly mutual, and, in its action, incessant. 
 
 That Philip was swayed and characterized by this 
 motive was, therefore, not singular nor especially dis- 
 tinctive. It was part of his trainiag, of his environ- 
 ment, something he shared with many others; a trait 
 professional as well as individual, differing from man to 
 man not in kind but in degree, according to natural tem- 
 perament and faithful observance. But what was dis- 
 tinctive Jn him — although not, we may thankfully say,' 
 distinctive of him alone — was the mighty working of 
 this same characteristic under conditions where there 
 lay no obligation of duty, narrowly considered; no pro- 
 fessional obligation, but that only of a conscience conse- 
 crated to the Divine Service and illumined by the new 
 light which Christianity sheds upon man's relations to 
 his feUows. 
 
12 INTRODUCTION 
 
 The service which he did to the poorer among these 
 sprang not only from a nature originally compassionate 
 and kindly — for such is often combined with, if not even 
 the result of, an easy good humor, as averse to exertion 
 as it is to severity. It was not so with him, although 
 by temperament and in practice he certainly inclined 
 more to indulgence than to harshness. I remember 
 once that we were both members of a court-martial 
 in a case of very aggravated misconduct, and after 
 sentence a recommendation to the superior authority 
 in favor of mitigation of the penalty was proposed. I 
 declined to join in it, whereupon PhiUp turned to me and 
 said, "The Saviour forgave." The argument did not 
 convince me, but it was illustrative of his tempera- 
 mental mildness of character, as well as of the control 
 his Christian beUef exercised over his action; and that 
 control was one which worked not only in accordance 
 with native disposition, as in the incident narrated, but 
 against it when need was, constraining him in his later 
 life of service to combat and subdue that retiring shy- 
 ness which so markedly characterized him, and which 
 is in a way one of the most incapacitating of influences. 
 It seems so small a matter, and withal so creditable a 
 frame of mind; it so readily counterfeits modesty, that 
 a man easily dignifies by that epithet a weak acquies- 
 cence in inaction, an abandonment and withdrawal of 
 himself from exertion which it is a duty to make. 
 
 This duty his Christian conviction and allegiance 
 enabled Philip both to recognize and to perform, at what- 
 ever cost. It is needless to enlarge upon the painful ac- 
 ceptance of public appearance, the reluctant forwardness 
 with which he entered into, and against strong natural 
 repulsion carried out, the appeals, personal or general, 
 which it fell to him to make for that beneficent under- 
 
PHILIP AND THE T. M. C. A. NAVAL BRANCH 13 
 
 taking, the great building in the neighborhood of the 
 New York Navy Yard, for the housing and entertainment 
 of naval seamen when on leave from their ships. Enough 
 about this subject is said by those who follow me. 
 The work itseK is a monument of the benevolence of 
 a Christian woman whose name will live in coimection 
 with it ; but not least among the strong foundations of 
 the enterprise was the sustained sacrifice of natural 
 inclination which PhiUp made during those two closing 
 years of his life. 
 
 Nor should there be overlooked the immense help that 
 derived to the undertaking from the general recognition 
 of his strong professional character. All know the ready 
 sneer, or where the sneer is absent, the doubting shrug 
 of incredulity which often meets the proposal to make a 
 strong and prolonged effort to uplift a class of men, or 
 to place them under conditions more favorable to moral 
 growth. Nothing so effectually meets and disposes of 
 the vague and impalpable, yet stubborn, resistance, 
 which such incredulity opposes, as the "assurance of a 
 man" at the back of the movement; and there were few 
 in the service so universally known for a combination of 
 virile efficiency with true kindheartedness and piety. 
 
 The dependence upon God which PhiUp openly 
 avowed was not by any one understood to mean that 
 he had not confidence in his own abUity to contribute 
 man's part — to do what a seaman could and should; nor 
 did others doubt that he had a seaman's capacity to do a 
 seaman's work. His reputation stood him in stead there; 
 and so likewise when he proposed to further an effort 
 which had for its object the bettering of the condition 
 of seamen on shore, the facilitating their leading a hap- 
 pier life, more sober, more pure, more comfortable, it 
 was not forgotten that his administrative capacity, energy 
 
14 INTRODUCTION 
 
 and tact, as well as his sailor-like qualities, had given 
 him also the reputation of one of the best first lieuten- 
 ants — executive ofiicers — of his day. There was no dis- 
 position to belittle as impractical any scheme which 
 Philip indorsed by his active support. 
 
 His sympathy, in short, dignified the effort by identi- 
 fying it with a man whose reputation, personal and pro- 
 fessional, rested on the firm foundations of estabhshed 
 character, consistent with itself, understood and known 
 by all who belonged to the service of his choice. Natur- 
 ally a leader to his men, through his well-tried profes- 
 sional competency, and through their experience of his 
 just, firm, and yet considerate rule, he readily led them 
 to look on what he did, as in the instance before us, 
 with a trust and a favor not always extended to efforts 
 equally well-meant, but which the natural misgiving of 
 the seaman induces him to fear may tend to commit him 
 to a degree of goodness greater than he is yet prepared 
 to accept. They knew that Philip would not go further 
 than to open to them surroundings of decency and com- 
 fort, leaving these to work their natural results according 
 to the disposition of each man; and that he would not 
 compromise their acceptance by any of the misplaced 
 urgencies of indiscreet zeal, eager to force the ripening 
 of fruit before its due season. Among the many 
 hindrances to the progress of a good work among men 
 like seamen the fear of such indiscretion is one of the 
 greatest, and is often a strong instrument in the hands 
 of those who withstand good because they have a per- 
 sonal interest in evil. To remove such impression the 
 support of Philip — and, it must in merest justice be 
 added, that of other officers imbued with the like spirit 
 and trusted like him— powerfully contributed. 
 
 It was from the midst of work of this character, unob- 
 
"the accuracy of Philip's judgment" 15 
 
 trusive but not undistinguislied, that Philip was called 
 away; two years, nearly to a day, after his last battle, 
 which may be considered to have terminated his active 
 service afloat. Of the part taken by his ship, the 
 Texas, in that action, he has fortunately left us a memo- 
 rial, told in terms the incisive charms of which, with their 
 occasional racy expression, bear distinctive marks of his 
 personality. Strongly illustrative of these characteris- 
 tics is the brief mention of the imminent threatening 
 collision between the Texas and the Brooklyn, as the 
 latter loomed suddenly before his eyes through the 
 smoke when she was describing her since celebrated loop. 
 Few in the profession will be found to question the 
 probable accuracy of Philip's judgment of the situation, 
 and that his quick appreciation and instant seamanlike 
 action averted the chance of a collision, which, had it 
 occurred, would have marred the glory of the day, and, 
 by materially reducing oiu- force, might have rendered 
 success most incomplete — even if it had not converted 
 an occasion of rejoicing into one of general mourning. 
 There are many certainly who could and would have 
 acted with equal accuracy and promptitude, but this 
 also we can assuredly say, that in this incident, little 
 noted because all ended well, PhiUp not only contributed 
 directly to the success of the day, but showed an ade- 
 quacy to unexpected emergency which surprised no one ; 
 simply because his professional reputation stood so high. 
 For the rest he tells us much of the ship and somewhat 
 of his own experiences — of what he underwent — ^but is 
 silent on those more strictly personal actions which 
 others, fortunately, have preserved to us. His gather- 
 ing of the ship's company after the battle for silent 
 thanksgiving has high professional precedent; Nelson 
 did the hke after the battle of the Nile. The complete- 
 
16 INTRODUCTION 
 
 ness of our success at Santiago, and the comparative \ \ S * 
 immunity of our fleet from injury, either to ship or men, 
 permitted an immediate spontaneous demonstration 
 such as Philip made, differing therein from the more 
 dehberate method of the EngUsh admiral. But the in- 
 teresting feature in both cases is the indication how close 
 under the surface, how real and how operative, was the 
 feeling of dependence, and of its correlative thankful- 
 ness, that so naturally and immediately broke out into 
 utterance. 
 
 It is this, also, which imparts its pecuUar interest 
 to those other words of Philip, which have rung through- 
 out the country and are become household words with 
 many who never looked upon his face. It was not a 
 happy facility for phrase-making, but a deep inner spirit 
 of compassion and charity, that in the full heat of strife 
 and victory, still recent, found voice in the words: "Don't 
 cheer, men; those poor fellows are dying." 
 
 It was because Philip was what he was that he then 
 said what he said. It was, indeed, but the echo of the 
 humane spirit that turned the victorious seamen from 
 their guns to their boats to save their drowning foes; 
 nor is it the prerogative of one race or of one navy only to 
 show this generous ardor. Our English brethren of that 
 day saved the Spaniards from among their exploding 
 battery-ships at the siege of Gibraltar, in 1782, at risks 
 like those of Trainor, the boatswain's mate of the Iowa, 
 told by Captain Evans, and of others mentioned, either 
 generally or by name, in the stories of the American cap- 
 tains at Santiago. 
 
 These not only saved others, but ventured their own 
 lives to do so. But it fell to Phihp to give this spirit 
 expression, as it fell to Lawrence to say: "Don't give 
 up the ship," and to Craven, willingly sacrificing his life 
 
" A NOBLE COMPANY " 17 
 
 at Mobile, to yield precedence of escape from the very 
 jaws of death, and to bequeath as his last words the 
 memorable phrase: "After you, pilot." 
 
 Such eloquence — such outspeaking of that which is 
 within — ^is not idle breath, but fruitful in lofty ideals and 
 in future noble acts. Words and deeds remain from 
 henceforth forever irreversible, monuments to the de- 
 parted whose spirit they summarize, and a heritage to 
 the living whom they challenge to emulation. In them, 
 as in the lives of the heroes themselves, the American 
 navy is rich in example and in remembrance. They are 
 a noble company, those among whom Phihp was worthily 
 mmibered when he entered into his rest. 
 
CHAPTER I 
 
 ANCESTET — BOYHOOD — ANNAPOLIS 
 
 IT has been a tradition in " Jack " Philip's family 
 that one of the hne had the distinction of jilt- 
 ing George Washington. It is a weU-known fact 
 that the course of true love did not run smoothly with 
 the Father of His Country, in what was probably his 
 first attempt at matrimonial entanglement. One branch 
 of Admiral Philip's family (and possibly more than one) 
 was accustomed to adding a final "se" to the name, 
 so that it became PhiUpse. Owing to some difficulty 
 between the Revolutionists and Tories, at the time of our 
 struggle for independence, the branch of the family 
 from which " Jack " Philip descended dropped the 
 superfluous and aristocratic "se" in the name and 
 thenceforth became plain democratic Phihp. 
 
 It was the bewitching Miss Mary Phihpse who won the 
 open admiration of George Washington, and, according 
 to some accounts, rejected his proffer of marriage. 
 Washington Irving, in his Life of George Washington, 
 says : " Tradition gives very different motives from those 
 of business for his two sojourns in the latter city [New 
 York]. He found there an early friend and schoolmate, 
 Beverly Robinson, son of John Robinson, Speaker of the 
 Virginia House of Burgesses. He was living happily 
 and prosperously with a young and wealthy bride, 
 having married one of the nieces and heiresses of Mr. 
 Adolphus PhiUpse, a rich landholder, whose manor- 
 
WASHINGTON AND MISS PHILIPSE 19 
 
 house is still to be seen on the banks of the Hudson. 
 At the house of Mr. Beverly Robinson, where Washington 
 was an honored guest, he met Miss Mary Philipse, sister 
 and co-heiress with Mrs. Robinson, a young lady whose 
 personal attractions are said to have rivalled her reputed 
 wealth. / 
 
 "We have already given an instance of Washington's 
 early sensibility to female charms. A life, however, of 
 constant activity and care, passed for the most part in 
 the wilderness and on the frontier, far from female 
 society, had left httle mood or leisure for the indulgence 
 of the tender sentiment; made him more sensible, in 
 the present brief interval of gay and social Ufe, to the 
 attractions of an elegant woman, brought up in the 
 polite circle of New York, 
 
 "That he was an open admirer of Miss Philipse is 
 an historical fact; that he sought her hand, but was 
 refused, is traditional, and not very probable. His 
 military rank, his early laurels and distinguished pres- 
 ence, were all calculated to win favor in female eyes; but 
 his sojourn in New York was brief, he may have been 
 diffident in urging his suit with a lady accustomed to 
 the homage of society and surrounded by admirers. 
 The most probable version of the story is, that he was 
 called away by his pubUc duties before he had made 
 sufficient approaches in his siege to the lady's heart to 
 warrant a summons to surrender." Miss Philipse soon 
 afterward married Captain Morris, who, with Washing- 
 ton, had been an aide-de-camp under Braddock. 
 
 "Jack" Philip, on his father's side, descended from 
 soUd Dutch ancestry and from his mother he inherited 
 those sterling. Puritanical quaUties of New England, 
 which have exerted such a powerful influence on the des- 
 tiny of this great nation. " Jack's " paternal great grand- 
 
20 ANCESTRY — BOYHOOD — ANNAPOLIS 
 
 father was Captain George Philipse or Philip, whose father 
 came from Holland and settled in Germantown, Co- 
 lumbia County, N. Y. The Dutch always did set a 
 good example in the matter of increasing and multiply- 
 ing — a duty in which "Jack" Phihp seems to have 
 sadly fallen from grace — so that it is with no surprise 
 that we learn that the original American Phihp enriched 
 his country with six able-bodied and sound-minded 
 sons. Four of these, George, Wilham, Henry and 
 David — they were satisfied with one Christian name 
 apiece in those days — at an early age moved to Claver- 
 ack (now in the same county and a venerable seat of 
 learning) the first named being the great grandfather 
 of Rear-Admiral Phihp. 
 
 This George Phihp was a captain in the American 
 army during the Revolution and served as Commissary 
 of Subsistence. He was active not only in state but in 
 church affairs, for we are informed that he was one of 
 the deacons who signed the call for the Rev. Dr. Gebbard, 
 to the Claverack Reformed Dutch Church, and was a 
 trustee when the congregation was incorporated, 1782. 
 
 The present pastor of this church, the Rev. John H. 
 Wyckoff, says that George Phihp "belonged to the 
 immortal roll of patriots whose devotion to their country, 
 to hberty and to the rights of man cannot be too highly 
 eulogized, since it is to them that we owe the possession 
 of our free institutions" — a good solid Dutch sentiment, 
 and one that cannot be too assiduously kept before the 
 minds of our present cosmopolitan generation. 
 
 Captain George Phihp married Jane Ostrander, July 
 15, 1776 — a month and year glorious in American history. 
 They had the local distinction of being the first couple 
 united in the holy bonds of matrimony by the venerated 
 Dr. Gebbard in his new pastorate. 
 
Philip's early conquest of the dutch 21 
 
 Captain George Philip died in the year 1806, at the 
 age of fifty-four. His sixth child, John G. Philip — it 
 will be noted that the good folk of this country began 
 assuming the middle name about the close of the eight- 
 eenth century — was born in 1789 and died in 1834. 
 
 John Henry Philip, son of John G. PhiUp, and father 
 of the rear-admiral, was born in 1811. After receiving 
 his rudimentary education in the schools of the neighbor- 
 hood he entered Troy Polytechnic School, from which 
 he was graduated, and then studied in the Vermont 
 Medical CoUege. He married the daughter of Dr. Theo- 
 dore Woodward, who, at that time, was professor of 
 surgery in the institution and from whom "Jack" Philip 
 derived his middle name. John Henry Philip entered 
 upon the uneventful practice of a country doctor in 
 Columbia County, N. Y., beginning his career in Kinder- 
 hook, and moving, in 1843, to Stockport, where he 
 remained until 1851, when he returned to Kinderhook. 
 
 Rear-Admiral John Woodward Philip was born in 
 Kinderhook, Columbia County, N. Y., August 26, 1840. 
 In those days many of the good folk of Colimabia County 
 spoke two languages, Dutch and Anglo-Dutch — each 
 equally distressing to the English ear. The English 
 language was held in some contempt. In fact, any 
 Kinderhookite who had the temerity to affect broad 
 Anglo-Saxon was promptly crushed by a ponderous 
 Holland sneer. Seldom was the venture made twice. 
 Philip's family, it cannot be denied, strongly favored 
 the Hollanders, so we find that our brilliant rear-admiral 
 was brought up with the Dutch fairly well conquered. 
 All the ordinary conversation in the Philip household 
 was carried on in this language. It is related that a 
 member of the family who had been "abroad" — ^that is, 
 to New York — on returning home, aroused not a little 
 
22 ANCESTRY — BOYHOOD — ANNAPOLIS 
 
 ire and contempt among his relatives by "affecting the 
 English tongue, " as they were pleased to term it, and 
 finally, in self-defense, was compelled to resort to Dutch. 
 
 Kinderhook, during "Jack" Philip's boyhood, was 
 an important village. In the estimation of the natives 
 it was the seat of an empire. It was here that Martin 
 Van Buren, the eighth president of the United States, 
 was born, and where he resided when public duty did 
 not call him away. The Van Burens and Philips at- 
 tended the same church. In those days it was custom- 
 ary to build several pews, nearest the pulpit, for the 
 special use of notables. The word "pew" but faintly 
 pictures to people of this generation the vastness and 
 amplitude of these singular structures. The expression 
 "box-stall" would better convey the idea to us. The 
 Reformed Dutch Church of Kinderhook had two of these 
 ponderous pews, veritable chambers, with a fair-sized 
 door opening into it and a table in the center around 
 which the august family could sit and dream away the 
 hours with almost as much immunity from observation 
 as if in their own homes. 
 
 No living member of "Jack" Phihp's family has 
 ventured to relate the tricks "Jack" played on the oc- 
 cupants of these awe-inspiring pews, but when we re- 
 member that the Philip's family pew directly faced the 
 Van Bviren "stall" and that "Jack" was bubbhng over 
 with merriment during the long hour of the sermon, with 
 his keen sense of the humorous, it is a foregone conclusion 
 that the cannon-ball head of the redoubtable Martin, 
 appearing as it must have, just over the top of the stall 
 rail, came in for a good share of the persecution which 
 could not be properly entered in the sober records of 
 the chin-ch. 
 
 Like his venerated ancestors who cut off the super- 
 
SOME BOYHOOD EPISODES 23 
 
 fluous "se" in their name, "Philipse," "Jack" early 
 evinced the strongest dishke for unnecessary frills, fuss, 
 furs or feathers. There were, of course, the ubiquitous 
 children with a "rich pa" or "ma" in the quaint old 
 village of Kinderhook, who delighted in showing their 
 affected superiority by wearing fine clothes and in fixing 
 their hair just a httle bit differently from the " common " 
 children. There was one of these "rich boys" who 
 especially aroused the contempt of "Jack" Philip. He 
 was always "dressed up" — something "Jack" could 
 not tolerate in "kids" — and with his long hair carefully 
 curled, would strut along the village street with an air 
 that was peculiarly exasperating. . 
 
 One day Jack's opporttmity came. He caught the 
 youngster in the fields and holding him fast, filled his 
 hair with burrs, rubbing them in so that it became 
 necessary to cut off the long tresses. "Jack" was duly 
 punished for this "flagrant violation of the rights of a 
 neutral," but he stoutly declared that he was more than 
 satisfied with the situation, as the youth never again 
 dared to allow his hair to grow long. 
 
 Mrs. Wheelock, in her interesting article on her brother, 
 Admiral Philip, mentions his having worn kilt skirts. 
 The rest of Jack's costiune in early childhood is revealed 
 in a story which comes from another som-ce. Like 
 most of the well-seasoned Dutch boys of the village, 
 "Jack" wore a loose blouse, gathered at the waist — 
 and thereby hangs a tale. 
 
 Noticing that some chickens had dug a hole imder a 
 fence that separated him from an orchard of ripe fruit, 
 he reasoned on the lines of the celebrated Darius Green, 
 who said: "If birds can fly, why can't I," and asked: 
 "If chickens can dig a hole under a fence to a peach 
 orchard, why can't I?" And forthwith "Jack" en- 
 
24 ANCESTRY — BOYHOOD — ^ANNAPOLIS 
 
 larged the hole sufl&ciently to enable him to enter tne 
 desired enclosiire. In a jifify he had filled his blouse 
 with creamy peacheSj the gather at his waist enabling 
 him to stow away several quarts of them. 
 
 All went well until "Jack" had started to return, when 
 the owner of the orchard hove in sight and gave chase. 
 "Jack" made a dive for the improved chicken-hole. 
 But here his poor generalship was demonstrated — he 
 had not adequately provided for his retreat, for, while 
 he had dug the hole big enough to admit his body, he 
 had not counted on the substantial enlargement round 
 his waist caused by the peaches imder his blouse. The 
 upshot of the whole affair was that "Jack" "got stuck" 
 when half way under the fence, so that the irate owner 
 of the crushed peaches had him at a painful disadvantage. 
 
 There was nothing extraordinary in "Jack" PhiUp's 
 early education. At the proper age he attended the 
 celebrated Kinderhook Academy, and did the usual 
 "home work" at nights with the light of camphine or 
 sperm oil lamps. That the lad, however, had an un- 
 usually bright and receptive mind is shown in the manner 
 in which he " appointed himseU " to the Naval Academy. 
 An uncle, Peter I. Philip, in those days was one of the 
 School Conamittee of the village. There being a va- 
 cancy in the Naval Academy, the Congressman for the 
 district, Killean Miller^ wrote to Uncle Peter inquiring 
 for some bright boy suitable for the place. It happened 
 that "Jack" was dining with his uncle when this letter 
 was read and the youngster quickly asked: "Uncle 
 Peter, do you think that I could fill the place?" Peter 
 said yes, and "Jack" was finally selected. 
 
 That there's many a slip 'twixt consent and ap- 
 pointment was singularly illustrated in the case of 
 "Jack" Philip. As we have seen, the selection of young 
 
8 
 
 ^3 
 
 t§ 
 
"jack's" narrow escape 25 
 
 Philip was satisfactory both to Uncle Peter and Con- 
 gressman Miller — and what greater powers were there 
 on earth than these two mighty men of Kinderhook? 
 There were no competitive examinations in those days, 
 and save for the entrance ordeal at Annapolis young 
 Philip was "as good as" there. Therefore, it was 
 openly announced that "Jack" was going to Annapolis 
 and after having received, with all due modesty, the 
 usual congratulations, he set about counting the days 
 to come before the Academy would open its doors to 
 new comers. As yet no official notice had reached him — 
 but that did not worry him, in fact, it was the merest 
 trifle after Uncle Peter and "Kill" Miller had "settled", 
 the matter. 
 
 It was within a day or so of his time for starting that 
 this "merest trifle" (the official appointment) began to 
 assume alarming proportions, for without it his trip to 
 Annapolis would be useless and the alternate would, 
 without doubt, get the prize. Much distressed by the 
 unaccountable oversight of the President in this grave 
 affair of state, "Jack" was disconsolately stubbing his 
 toes along the village street, almost convinced that his 
 opportunity for entering the navy was gone forever, 
 when he chanced to notice in the gutter a large envelope 
 where it had been, apparently, many days, greatly 
 soiled with water and mud. Picking it up he was as- 
 tonished to find that it was addressed to himself, and 
 on opening it found that it was the long-expected ap- 
 pointment. Whether that letter was intentionally lost 
 by some over-anxious relative or whether it was ma- 
 liciously mislaid, Philip never was able to ascertain; in 
 any event it all ended well and "Jack" Philip was ap- 
 pointed to the Naval Academy September 20, 1856. 
 
 The arrival of newcomers at Annapolis each year is 
 
26 ANCESTRY — BOYHOOD — ^ANNAPOLIS 
 
 watched by the upper classmen with an interest the 
 plebian can never hope to understand. In these days, 
 when steam and electricity have brought all parts of 
 the country into the closest touch, the styles of dress, 
 habits and customs of the people are very generally 
 alike; but at the time "Jack" Philip knocked at An- 
 napolis' gate he found there congregated a curious as- 
 semblage of would-be naval heroes, dressed in as many 
 fantastic styles as the length and breadth of the land 
 afforded. Those were days when stage coaches were 
 commoner than railroad trains, when to get beyond the 
 borders of your native county — and to return alive — 
 was a matter of pubUc rejoicing, when the man who 
 touched a telegraph key was deemed to be iu unholy 
 communication with the evil one, and when people in 
 each separate state, county and village dressed in what- 
 soever manner that seemed good in their own particular 
 eyes. 
 
 No wonder, then, that at the annual opening of the 
 Naval Academy, the upper classmen gathered to see the 
 "sights" that had drifted in from all the nooks and 
 corners of South, North, West, East and Midland to 
 present their credentials at Uncle Sam's navy school. 
 Coming from the more central state of New York, and 
 having been in closer touch with the metropolis, we can 
 imagine that "Jack" Philip — though, doubtlessly savor- 
 ing somewhat of the Dutch at Kinderhook — did not 
 present the entirely original appearance of, for instance, 
 the appointee from Alligator Bayou, Louisiana, or Dead 
 Horse Gulch, out West, or Codfishville, "Way de-own 
 East." 
 
 At all events we know that "Jack" immediately 
 became a favorite with the instructors and classmen 
 alike. One of his chums at the naval school says: 
 
"bluffing" a professor 27 
 
 "Rear- Admiral Philip, known to his class and afterward 
 throughout the service, as Jack Philip, was one of the 
 best all-around fellows in his class. He was a favorite 
 not only in his own class, but in aU the classes while he 
 was in the academy. At times Jack was 'sly, devilish 
 sly, sir,' for he could create a sensation ia the class-room 
 by getting his section in a roar of laughter while he sat 
 with as stolid a countenance as an Indian. Jack re- 
 ceived more demerits for one particular offense than 
 any one of the class. It was almost daily that he was 
 on Conduct Report for 'loud laughing' in the mess-haU. 
 I remember on one occasion when two of his classmates 
 were walking down Stribling Row with one of the famous 
 beauties of Annapolis, the lady heard of Jack's bash- 
 fulness and said that she would like to meet him. As 
 they happened to be near his room, the two classmates 
 went in and brought him out by sheer force and intro- 
 duced him to the fair one. But just as soon as they re- 
 leased their hold — Jack sloped. 
 
 "Another story about Jack was how he bluffed a pro- 
 fessor. In those days the sections were very large and 
 the instructors few, so that it was impossible for each 
 middy to recite every day. The fellows figm-ed out the 
 days on which they were likely to be called and pre- 
 pared that lesson and neglected the others. On this 
 occasion we had a new professor who did not under- 
 stand the situation. Jack had been called on for three 
 days in succession, so he felt safe from further recitation 
 for the rest of that week. The fourth day, as soon as 
 the section was seated, the professor said: 'Mr. Philip, 
 you will recite.' Jack stood up, tm-ned red from Ms 
 neck up, but finally recovered suflB.ciently to calmly ask: 
 'Professor, have you not made some mistake? I have 
 recited three days this week, while some of these fellows 
 
28 ANCESTRY — BOYHOOD — ^ANNAPOLIS 
 
 have not recited at all.' The professor quietly referred 
 to his record-book and said: 'Mr. Phihp, I beg your 
 pardon, you are quite right. You may take yoiu" seat.' 
 The professor could not account for the conunotion in 
 the section room." 
 
 Although later in life he may have changed his mind 
 on the subject of hazing, "Jack" Phihp fully committed 
 himseK to the practice while in school, for one of his 
 friends tells how, one night, he led a hazing party which 
 had for its object a specially unpopular midshipman. 
 They Hterally made him "take up his bed and walk" — 
 it was a feather-bed — and gaining a secluded spot gave 
 him a coat of tar and then, ripping open the bed, rolled 
 him in the feathers. 
 
 One of the instructors at Annapolis during "Jack's" 
 novitiate was a greatly beloved man whose only fault — 
 so the middies declared — ^was that of stammering when 
 unusually excited or nervous. One beautiful spring 
 morning, when the middies were drilling in infantry 
 tactics under the care of this officer, the youngsters 
 were marching toward the sea-wall and were within a 
 few feet of it when their commander endeavored to 
 give the order "Halt!" The middies heard the hissing 
 and spluttering noise behind them and knew perfectly 
 well what the instructor was tr3dng to say, but, in that 
 spirit of mischief so natural with boys, they marched 
 right over the sea-wall and waded into a considerable 
 depth of water before the instructor finally gave vent 
 to the word "Halt!" 
 
 Very few laymen appreciate the severity of discipline 
 to which these budding seamen are subjected during the 
 four years of their stay at AnnapoUs. Demerit marks 
 were freely given, and when the number reached above 
 two hundred the middy was dismissed. "Jack'^ Philip 
 
AS AN EXPERT SMOKER 29 
 
 had the distinction of incurring two hundred and twenty- 
 one demerit marks, brought on principally by "loud 
 laughing," smoking and in endeavoring to cover the 
 shortcomings of others — and, had it not been for his 
 sterling good quaUties, he undoubtedly would have been 
 dismissed. As it was, Commodore Craven, then Super- 
 intendent, on receiving "Jack's" promise to mend his 
 ways, very graciously "called it one himdred and ninety- 
 nine." 
 
 And while we are on the subject of smoking it will be 
 well to give the testimony of a shipmate of Philip, Chief 
 Engineer Edward Biddle Latch, now retired. Mr. 
 Latch says : " Among the reminiscences of the late Rear- 
 Admiral Philip I think that his meerschaum pipe, with 
 a big dent in it, should not be neglected. Besides being 
 an excellent pipe it was a souvenir of the civil war; the 
 dent, I think he said, bef eU it while he was attached to the 
 monitor Montauh. Anyhow, it was the only pipe, with 
 one exception, he smoked in the three years' cruise of the 
 Wachusett, and many and many are the associations 
 that cling about it. As an expert in blowing riags I 
 never saw his equal. By some peculiarity known only 
 to himseK he would puff out a dense volume of smoke 
 when, suddenly, a huge ring would emerge from it, 
 reminding one of the occasional that spring from a 
 nine-inch gun or from the smoke pipe of a locomotive. 
 A picture of that pipe, together with the mysterious 
 paraphernalia which are supposed to accompany such 
 things, would seem like a visible presence of an old friend 
 to scores and scores of brother ofl&cers." 
 
 It is a matter of some interest to note that on leaving 
 Annapolis, "Jack" Philip began his first active service 
 in Uncle Sam's navy in that grand old frigate. Consti- 
 tution. Shortly afterward he was transferred to the 
 
30 ANCESTRY — BOYHOOD — ^ANNAPOLIS 
 
 Santee, and having been promoted to the rank of actmg- 
 master he was ordered to the sloop of war Marion, of the 
 Gulf Blockading Squadron. He had been in this ship 
 only a short time when he was attached to the Sonoma, 
 of the James River Fleet. On July 16, 1862, Philip 
 was commissioned a lieutenant, and from September, 
 1862, to January, 1865, he was executive officer of the 
 Chippewa, Pawnee and of the monitor Montauk in suc- 
 cession, these vessels being actively engaged in the naval 
 operations connected with the siege of Charleston. It 
 was while he was in the Pawnee that PhiUp received his 
 first serious wound, the attending circumstances of 
 which are fully detailed in Admiral Balch's article. 
 On being detached from the blockading force off Charles- 
 ton, Philip was sent to the Wachusett as executive officer, 
 that ship being ordered on a three years' cruise in the 
 Far East. The Wachusett left Boston early in March, 
 the career of the yoimg officer being largely followed 
 in his own private journal which begins in Chapter III. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 Philip's first taste of war 
 Rear-Admiral George Beall Batch, U. S. N. 
 
 I HAVE been asked to contribute an anecdotal sketch 
 of the late Rear-Admiral John W. Philip, so far as 
 it relates to the civil war and to his services in the U. 
 S. ship Pavmee under my command. He was then a Ueu- 
 tenant and executive officer in that ship, and ever 
 evinced the truest patriotism as well as love for the 
 service. His shipmates and comrades throughout the 
 navy need not be told that he was beloved and admired 
 by aU as the embodiment of a gallant and brave officer, 
 ready at aU times for any duty. 
 
 During the year of her service in Stono River, South 
 Carolina, the duty of the Pawnee was to protect the in- 
 terests of the Government, and the indefatigable efforts 
 of our Southern brethren to destroy her were often 
 shown. These had expression in the action of July 16, 
 1863, at which time the Pawnee was, with other naval 
 vessels, covering the troops under General Terry, and on 
 the day above named a simultaneous attack was made 
 on the troops and naval vessels by two batteries on 
 James Island — ^the batteries being distant (by Confed- 
 erate accounts) three hundred and fifty yards. 
 
 It is not surprising that the Pawnee was hit forty-six 
 times in the fight; but strange to say only a few were 
 wotmded, among whom was the subject of this sketch, 
 John W. Philip, executive officer, who was struck by a 
 
32 PHILIP S FIRST TASTE OF WAR 
 
 splinter and knocked ten feet across the deck. But with 
 that invincible pluck which was characteristic of him he 
 kept on in the fight and I noticed, with pride in our 
 noble profession, that his wound did not interfere with 
 his work, for he coolly went aft and fired off one of the 
 9-inch guns which had had the lock shot away; and 
 after the action he went and counted the hits, forty-six, 
 as he reported to me. I observed during the fight that 
 Philip had been injured, but the hot fire we were under 
 did not permit the usual civUities of the day, as our duty 
 was in the action then taking place. 
 
 It may be of some interest, as connected with the 
 movements of the army under General Terry, to state 
 that on that day it was expressed to me by him (Terry) 
 that we (meaning the naval force under my command) 
 had saved them; a fact of which I had no doubt, and 
 to my gallant and efficient executive I felt much in- 
 debted for this result. 
 
 In these days of battleships and protected armor ves- 
 sels it may not be out of place to state that after the 
 action of July 16, 1863, there were swept up from the 
 deck of the Pawnee enough splinters to cook breakfast 
 for two hundred and fifty men. This is mentioned as 
 showing a startling difference between the system then 
 existing and that of the present time. 
 
 Although having no connection with our service to- 
 gether it has often afforded me great satisfaction to re- 
 peat an anecdote of Philip, who on noticing the inscrip- 
 tions "Rebel trophies" in the New York Navy Yard, 
 said: "I don't like that, there are no rebels now." 
 This shows his largeness of heart, and that however 
 sturdy a fighter he may have been in the war, now that 
 it was over, he bore no ill-will to them who had been 
 lately arrayed against him. 
 
Midshipman John W. Philip, 1S61. 
 
She was not " reconsteuc'I'ed " 33 
 
 On board the Panmee it was often the occasioti of merri- 
 ment when ladies visited the ship that, at these times, 
 it was the habit of Philip (owing to his great diffidence) 
 to dodge the fair visitors by going fishing — and as they 
 were being received on board, on one side of the ship, 
 Philip would disappear over the other side. 
 
 A short time before Phihp passed to his reward I re- 
 ceived a letter from him, in reply to one I had written 
 him, expressing my satisfaction with his distinguished 
 services during the Spanish War, recaUiag , ovir service 
 together in the Pawnee. He told me of an interesting 
 episode he had had whUe in command of the New York. 
 A lady and gentleman were stopping at the same hotel 
 with him, whom he invited to visit a modern man of war. 
 The invitation being accepted, they were received by 
 Captain Philip, who showed them over the ship, giving 
 them an opportunity to inspect the guns, machinery and 
 everything likely to interest strangers. They then ad- 
 journed to the cabin, where cake and wine were set be- 
 fore them — the lady remarking to her husband: "How 
 strange it is that we should be on board a Yankee man 
 of war," for it must in candor be stated that they had 
 not been reconstructed and were from Charleston, S. C. 
 She added that she would never be reconstructed until 
 she had met an officer from "that hateful old Pawnee," 
 and could give him a piece of her mind. 
 
 Philip said: "Oh, it is a long time since then and all 
 feeUng should be past and gone." 
 
 But the lady still asserted that she would not be 
 satisfied until she had had the opportunity to speak her 
 mind. Then Philip said that if she would promise to be 
 as pleasant to the officer as she had always been to him 
 he might present one to her — and she promised. He 
 then rose and stated that he had been executive officer 
 
34 Philip's first taste of war 
 
 of the Pawnee. And he asked her if there was a St. 
 Michael's Church in Charleston. 
 
 "Yes," said the lady, "and we lived right opposite." 
 
 To this Philip replied: "WeU, we used to make the 
 steeple of that church our target!" 
 
 As commander of the Pawnee it may be proper for me 
 to say that making a target of St. Michael's spire 
 is a very good story, even if not true. It is needless to 
 add that this revelation of his identity with the Pawnee 
 did not alter the feehngs of the lady toward Captain 
 Philip, as she had been entirely won over by his kindness 
 and gallantry. 
 
 But to return to oiu- service together in the good old 
 ship. The exigencies of the service called him from the 
 Pawnee to other duties, and from that time I have never 
 failed to watch his course through aU the intervening 
 years, and have had cause, many times, to exult in his 
 fame and to remember the days we served together. 
 But alas, my dear friend and comrade has been taken 
 from his host of admirers and is waiting the last call. 
 
 "How sleep the brave who sink to rest 
 By all their country's wishes blest." 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 OFF ON HIS FIRST LONG CRUISE 
 
 AS Captain Mahan has well said, in his Introduction 
 to this work, "Jack" Philip was not an ordinary 
 ' man. This is especially apparent to any one 
 who reads the diary kept by Philip during his cruise in 
 the Far East, 1865-68. Frequently the daily record of 
 a protracted cruise in a war ship becomes a monotonous 
 entry of weather conditions, number of knots logged, 
 an occasional burial at sea etc., details of little or no in- 
 terest to the average reader and valuable in an historical 
 sense only as they confirm the time or place of a ship's 
 itinerary in some episode of national importance. There 
 is, necessarily, some of this "dead matter" in the diary 
 of "Jack" Phihp, but the writer has endeavored to 
 eliminate it, so as to leave only those bright, witty and 
 thoroughly human observations which were so char- 
 acteristic of the man Philip. 
 
 The Wachusett, the ship in which Philip made his 
 three years' cruise in the Far East, was one of the prom- 
 inent war craft in our struggle with the South. She 
 was a sister to the famous Kearsarge, a wooden steam 
 frigate with a detachable propeller, carrying nine guns 
 and a complement of one hundred and seventy men. 
 It was when the Confederate commerce destroyer Florida 
 put into the BraziUan port of Bahia, October, 1864, 
 that the Wachusett (then imder the orders of Com- 
 mander Napoleon Collins) dehberately ran under the 
 
36 OFF ON HIS FIKST LONG CRUISE 
 
 nose of a Brazilian corvette — stationed expressly for 
 the purpose of protecting the Confederate ship — smashed 
 into the Florida and after firing several shots, com- 
 pelled her surrender. Taking his prize in tow, Collins 
 carried her to the United States. 
 
 Of course this act was a flagrant violation of the 
 rights of a neutral port — ^but no more so than many 
 England and France were guilty of in the same war — 
 and it was promptly disavowed by our government; 
 but before the Florida could be restored to the BraziHans 
 she was "conveniently" (as some writers have expressed 
 it) sunk, so that her usefulness as a destroyer of Uncle 
 Sam's commerce was ended. The Brazihan govern- 
 ment, very properly, was highly indignant over the 
 affair and issued an edict prohibiting the wicked Wa- 
 chusett — under direst penalties — ^from again darkening 
 Brazilian waters with her shadow. How^ like an 
 avenging Nemesis, this prohibition brought about a 
 serious, and even perilous condition aboard the War 
 chusett, on the cruise in which Phihp served in her, is 
 interestingly described by the hero in his journal. 
 
 To the average landsman so Uttle is known of the 
 romance, daily peril and personal adventures of oiu" 
 naval officers while at sea, that the writer feels justified 
 in giving a larger measure of Phihp's diary than would 
 ordinarily be advisable. This is the more appropriate 
 in view of the fact that Philip's inspiring conduct in the 
 naval battle of Santiago has peculiarly endeared him 
 to the American people, so that they have a praiseworthy 
 interest in the details of his private life which are so 
 engagingly set forth in his diary. 
 
 Before entering upon the incidents, of Philip's ex- 
 periences in the long cruise in the Wachusett it will be 
 well to give a list of her officers as they appear on a fly 
 
"sporting blood" in the wachusett 37 
 
 leaf of his journal. Many of these names are famiUar 
 to older oflEicers in the navy to-day. Her commander 
 was Robert Townsend, and the executive officer was 
 the then Lieutenant Philip; and it may here be noted 
 that PhiUp filled the most trying and difficult office 
 there is aboard a war ship engaged in active cruising. 
 The other officers, as given in Philip's diary, were : W. M. 
 King, surgeon; William Bogert Newman and Thomas 
 B. Grove, acting masters; J. C. Pegram, ensign; Ben- 
 jamin Haskins, acting ensign; Edward H. Sears, acting 
 assistant-paymaster; Edward Biddle Latch, M. H. 
 Knapp, Edward Lincoln, J. H. Barton, W. M. Senss, 
 J. M. Brown and Joseph Forbes, engineers; Paul At- 
 kinson and James Russell, boatswain and gunner; R. 
 Rich, James KeUy and Joseph Moran, acting master's 
 mates; Samuel Townsend, captain's clerk; Robert 
 Thomas, pajmiaster's clerk. In all there were two 
 hvmdred and two souls aboard the Wachusett when she 
 sailed. 
 
 That there was some "sporting blood" among the 
 officers of this gallant ship is indicated by the fact that 
 PhiUp gives up the second page of his journal to the 
 "guesses" they made relative to the duration of their 
 crmse. The entry is as follows: "The Wachusett sailed 
 from Boston, March 5, 1865. The officers think that 
 she will return on the following dates" : 
 
 Mr. Newman October 13, 1867 
 
 Mr. Grove October 13, 1868 
 
 Mr. Pegram December 20, 1867 
 
 Mr. Latch October 20, 1867 
 
 Mr. Sears December 20, 1868 
 
 Dr. King April 20, 1868 
 
 Mr. Haskins March 15, 1868 
 
 Philip June 20, 1867 
 
38 OFF ON HIS FIRST LONG CRUISE 
 
 As a matter of fact the Wachusett arrived at New 
 York, on her return from the Far East, January 29, 
 1868, so that Mr. Pegram is entitled to the credit of 
 having come nearest to the date. But here, at the 
 Very outset, we have an illustration of Philip's fighting 
 capacity. Even in the matter of a guess he was un- 
 willing to admit defeat, for on the last page of his journal 
 he records that his guess was "miscalculated," he having 
 intended the date given by him, "June 20, 1867," as 
 the time of the ship's arrival at Shanghai, China. But 
 even in this "miscalculation" he found little comfort, 
 for the Wachusett arrived at Shanghai April 24, 1866, 
 some fourteen months before the date of PhiUp's pre- 
 diction. 
 
 We will now proceed with the private journal of 
 "Jack" Philip, the writer taking the Hberty of making 
 some condensation. 
 
 Philip's journal of a cruise. 
 
 Mar. 1st, 1865. — The ship [Wachusett] still lying alongside of 
 the wharf at the lower end of the [Boston Navy] Yard. About 
 10 A. M. the draft of men came aboard from the receiving ship 
 Ohio and with them our duties begaii in regular order. About 
 3 p. M. we hauled out from the wharf and anchored in the stream 
 off the Ohio. 
 
 Mar. 2d. — Cold and rainy all the time, but busy in getting the 
 ship ready for sea. I was engaged in berthing and organizing 
 the ship's company into watches, quarters and stations. On the 
 4th expected to sail every hour, but small things would arise to 
 delay us, and I went on shore in the afternoon to bid farewell to 
 the kind friends I had become acquainted with during my short 
 stay in the "Hub of the Universe." On returning to the ship 
 in the evening, with spirits very much depressed, I came to the 
 conclusion that going to sea was well enough to talk about while 
 comfortably situated and surrounded by pleasant companions 
 and friends on shore, but the stern reality was not so pleasant; 
 
WAIL OF AN EXECUTIVE OFFICER 39 
 
 and I was for the time being very sorry that I had chosen the 
 naval service for my profession. 
 
 Mar. 5th. — This day dawned remarkably clear and pleasant for 
 this season of the year in Boston and so continued throughout 
 the day. About 10 a. m. orders came to the commander to "get 
 under way as soon as possible and carry out the instructions of 
 the Navy Department." The pilot came on board and every- 
 thing was put in motion to get the ship started on her long cruise; 
 all the officers and sailors were eager to "be off," but of course 
 some of us were exceedingly sorry to break off the pleasant as- 
 sociations that had been formed on shore, and to form new and 
 not such pleasant ones in foreign lands. 
 
 The ship was surrounded by small boats containing the mothers, 
 wives, sisters and sweethearts of some of the sailor men, all asking 
 permission to "come on board" and see their Tom, Dick and 
 Harry before the ship sailed. But of course I had to turn my 
 ear and heart from them and give them the stereotyped answer: 
 "No, I am sorry, but you can't come on board"; and, perhaps, 
 receive a cry or snifiEle in return and perhaps be called a cold- 
 hearted wretch! And this all for attending to the required duty 
 as the executive officer! ! 
 
 About 5 p. M. we called "all hands to up anchor," and really 
 made the commencement of the cruise — to where I now cannot 
 tell. On "breaking ground" and starting ahead with the engines, 
 the crew of the Ohio gave us three long and welcome cheers for a 
 pleasant and happy cruise and to return home in safety. We 
 steamed down the harbor very nicely and took our last view of 
 Boston for some months to come. About 7 p. m. we passed Fort 
 Warren with its brave garrison and a few Confederate prisoners 
 on its parapets, and a few minutes afterward we discharged the 
 pilot, sending our last letters with him, and then headed the old 
 Wachusett seaward, rang "four bells" [full speed] and shotted the 
 guns fore arid aft. 
 
 At sunset the sky was most beautiful over the land and every- 
 thing seemed to smile upon us as we were fast dropping our native 
 land beneath the western horizon. How many of us will live to 
 see it again? The Lord alone knows, but all, I sincerely hope; 
 for we are too nicely situated at present to be broken up. 
 
 Mar. 6th. — Clear, pleasant and cold. The ship under steam 
 and plain sail heading eastward to clear St. George's Bank. There 
 
40 OFF ON HIS FIRST LONG CEUISB 
 
 being quite a sea on and the ship rolling very deep and heavily 
 an unusual number of the officers and men are down with sea- 
 sickness. They all are to be pitied but cannot be helped. [It is 
 said on good authority that "Jack" Philip never was seasick. 
 E. S. M.] Having so many seasick ones aboard I did not attempt 
 to exercise the crew. 
 
 One sail in sight to-day, under all sail and heading in for Bos- 
 ton. How I wished that I was on board, just returning from a 
 cruise, so that I might again visit my home on the Hudson ! 
 
 Mar. 7th. — Much warmer to-day, as we have cleared St. George's 
 Bank and are in the Gulf Stream in the latitude of the city of New 
 York. The ship is rolling extremely deep and heavy to-day, much 
 to the discomfort of the officers, for we are obliged at mess to 
 hold our soup dishes etc., in our hands and to keep time with the 
 roll of the ship, and although having large racks around our mess- 
 table and taking all the extra precautions, we have been obliged 
 to sacrifice a large amount of crockery and small stores — just 
 because the ship will roll about and not keep steady ! 
 
 I thii^k that the man who wrote "Life on the Ocean Wave" 
 was anything but sane or rational, for if he had been in his right 
 frame of mind he never would have misused our English language 
 in the style he did. I have heard several officers to-day wish for 
 the author of that piece, to be dropped overboard for misapplying 
 words in so bad a manner. 
 
 To-day I tried to exercise the men at the broadside guns, but 
 made only a starting, to be completed and perfected during the 
 cruise. A few sail in sight, all being honest Yankee traders bound 
 home and we did not trouble them. In the evening, feeling quite 
 low spirited again, as the shades of night began to approach, I 
 passed a long time in Pegram's stateroom, where we talked over 
 our hard luck and the misfortune of being a naval officer in Uncle 
 Sam's service; and made several resolutions some of which I am 
 fearful I cannot keep in case I do return to the United States in 
 safety. 
 
 Mar. 8th. — To-day we were all in excellent spirits, for it being 
 a lovely spring day, with the sea unusually smooth and seasick- 
 ness almost gone, we seemed to have changed ourselves into otner 
 beings. Instead of being downcast and troubled with homesick- 
 ness, we seemed to be enchanted with the sailor's life and eager 
 for the cruise, and now would not turn back for anything. Yet 
 
"if BERMUDA LETS YOU PASS!" 41 
 
 to-morrow, if we should happen to have a gale with a rough sea, 
 we would, no doubt, change our minds and again wish ourselves 
 on shore. Thus it is with most naval officers; one day, when it is 
 beautiful, they are "dead in love" with their profession, but as 
 soon as a gale comes on, any of us would be willing to exchange 
 places with any hackman or stage driver on land. But fair weather 
 cannot last always, no more than the smiles of the fair ones are 
 allowed to remain on our memory. 
 
 To-day busy in cleaning the ship fore and aft and exercising 
 a green but willing crew at the great guns. 
 
 Mar. 9th. — DeUghtfully warm and pleasant for a day in March 
 and the sea is again unusually smooth; but as we are now below 
 the latitude of Cape Hatteras and approaching Bermuda I think 
 that we can expect our good weather to desert us and in its place 
 receive a succession of gales and rain imtil we are well to the south 
 of these islands.. In coming from the south and heading north- 
 ward, the old man -of war's man has a saying that; "If Bermuda 
 lets you pass, then look out for Cape Hatteras." Now whether 
 this will apply to ships bound southward I cannot say, but I hope 
 it is a sailor's rule that will not "work both ways," for we have 
 passed Hatteras with scarcely enough air stirring to make it 
 agreeable, and as we have yet to pass Bermuda I hope that the 
 clerk will postpone his visit in our latitude for days to come. 
 
 Have been busy all day stationing and exercising the ship's 
 company at the great guns. Nothing in sight, so we are obliged 
 to entertain ourselves the best we can. Once in a while some 
 member of the mess would bring up the good times we had on 
 shore, only a few days back, and start us in a homesick mood. 
 Consequently all such conversation has been ruled out of the mess 
 until we are again accustomed to the lonely sea life. 
 
 Mar. 10th. — Clear and very pleasant all day. In the morning 
 we had a delightful breeze from the east, and we were in hopes 
 that we had at last reached the northern limits of the "trade 
 winds " and then be able to make faster time than we have yet 
 done. But toward noon the wind died away and then came out 
 directly ahead and fresh, so that at the present time we are not 
 logging one-half what we have been doing. So much for hopes 
 on the water!' You can scarcely tell one hour what the next will 
 bring forth! ! 
 
 On leaving Boston we anticipated going either to Madeira or to 
 
42 OFF ON HIS FIRST LONG CRUISE 
 
 the Cape de Verdes for coal but on getting outside of St. George's 
 Bank and seeing the ship heading southward, instead of eastward, 
 I asked the captain : " Where the present course would take us for 
 coal, provided we continued standing on the same?". He then 
 informed me that before leaving Boston he had decided to coal in 
 the West Indies and then go to St. Helena, and hearing that the 
 Confederate cruiser Shenandoah was at the island of Martinique 
 he had concluded to go there on our way out, in hopes that we 
 might fall in with her. 
 
 So we are now on our way to Martinique and are below Bermuda; 
 but nothing has yet appeared in sight that at all resembles the 
 commerce destroyer. Although having a new and green crew, 
 we are all anxious to meet the Shenandoah, and although we might 
 not make so pretty a fight as our sister ship the Kearsarge did 
 in the English Channel, yet we are confident that we would not 
 disgrace the Wachusett's fair name and would rid the seas of an- 
 other destroyer. I would not so soon boast if I had not the greatest 
 confidence in the true blood of our Yankee crew. 
 
 Mar. 11th. — This day extremely warm and sultry for this season 
 of the year, but not for the latitude the ship is in. It seems quite 
 strange to be able to wear summer clothing when, in less than a 
 week, we were all bundled up in furs and great coats. 
 
 To-day passed two sails, both Yankee brigs bound to the north 
 under all drawing sail. They seemed to be rather nervous when 
 we steamed toward them, and no doubt, with the careers of the 
 different Confederate cruisers fresh in their memories, scenes of 
 confiscation and burning ran through their minds. But seeing us 
 pass without offering to molest them, they no doubt felt relieved, 
 and were thankful that we, too, were Yankees and not of the 
 tribe of the Alabama or Florida. 
 
 Passed a large bale of cotton floating in the water, but did not 
 pick it up. No doubt it was a portion of the cargo of some English 
 blockade runner which had escaped the vigilance of our blockaders 
 off Charleston or Wilmington in days when the Southerners still 
 held those ports. Passed the day in the usual man of war's Sat- 
 urday style, i. €., in getting ship's company ready for Sunday 
 inspection. 
 
 Mar. 12th. — To-day, Sunday, was a beautiful summer's day. 
 The sea was as calm and smooth as a mill pond, of course with 
 the exception of the gentle and graceful swell setting in from the 
 
SAILORS NEVER SATISFIED 43 
 
 northeast. At 10 a. m. we carefully inspected the ship and her 
 crew of bluejackets. Considering that it was the first Sunday 
 " Off the guards " they made a very fine appearance, which pleased 
 our captain very much and he remarked, in passing down the line, 
 that " With the present crew I would be very glad to fall in with 
 the Shenandoah or any of her sister ships." 
 
 After inspection the captain read divine service to the of- 
 ficers and men assembled aft on the quarter deck for that purpose; 
 afterward "mustered all hands" around the capstan and "piped 
 down.'.' The usual routine of work for a man of war being over 
 for the day [Sunday] the men were allowed to smoke and the of- 
 ficers passed the time either on deck or below, in little groups, 
 reading or writing. 
 
 If the sea could always remain as it has all day and we had 
 nothing but fine, fast steamers, there would be no profession so 
 fine and enchanting as that of a seafaring man. But in a few days, 
 if gales should overtake us, then we would all change our minds in 
 regard to life and profession, and all wish themselves quietly 
 settled ashore. So we change, with the weather, from praise to 
 fault-finding, and, sailor-like, are never satisfied with our lot as it 
 is dealt out to us. 
 
 We are fast approaching the tropics and are in great hopes of 
 falling in with the northeast trade winds very soon, as our coal is 
 getting rather low and we are obliged to economize; we have about 
 nine hundred miles to run before we will be able to replenish the 
 supply. We are compelled to run at reduced speed, and when in 
 the trades can set our sails and go into port independently of our 
 engines. A large amount of Gulf and seaweed in sight, but of 
 course, did not stop to pick up any of it. 
 
 Mar. l-Sth. — We are at last in the trades, having struck them 
 in the night, and they are blowing about as hard as we desire for 
 the present. It has been beautiful all day, the sea quite smooth 
 and the ship logging twelve knots under less than half steam. Al- 
 though having such a fine breeze we are unable to carry all sail, 
 for as we were about to give her all the port studding-sails we dis- 
 covered that the head of the fore topmast and jibboom were 
 sprung, so that instead of making more sail we were obliged to re- 
 duce it by taking in the topgallant sails and flying-jib, in order 
 to save our spars until we reach port. Fortunately for us, we 
 brought out a spare set of spars for use in the next three years, but 
 
44 OFF ON HIS FIRST LONG CRUISE 
 
 had no idea we would need them so soon. And now we will be 
 detained in Martinique until these are rigged — but it's " all in the 
 cruise 1" 
 
 The bilge water being quite offensive to-day we started the men, 
 directly after breakfast, at the bilges and storerooms, fore- and aft, 
 to clean them out and whitewash them again, which is our only 
 remedy for this obnoxious and sickening smell. We are in hopes 
 to subdue it in a few days. 
 
 To-day we crossed the tropic of Cancer and are now fairly in the 
 torrid zone, and wear summer clothing while our friends at home 
 are still huddled up in their great coats and furs. To-night we are 
 only four hundred and ninety miles from Martinique, but I wish 
 it was only that from China, with the expectation of getting letters 
 at the end of that short journey — how much happier we all would 
 feel. 
 
 A flying fish came on board this evening and I will have him 
 for my breakfast in the morning. I suppose he was misled by 
 seeing a light on deck and was thus entrapped. 
 
 Mar. 14th. — Trade winds blowing very fresh from the north and 
 east. Ship averaging nine knots Under very little sail and no 
 steam, having stopped the engines and disconnected the propeller. 
 During the afternoon we had two or three heavy rain squalls and 
 quite a large water spout was in sight to windward. It not being 
 near enough to be dangerous we did not fire at it, as is generally 
 the custom on board any vessel having a gun. They are extremely 
 dangerous to open vessels, when at too close quarters, and a gun 
 is fired so that either the shot or the concussion will burst it, and 
 let the immense body of water fall harmlessly into the sea instead 
 of on a ship's deck. 
 
 Employed the time to-day getting up preventer back stays for 
 the fore and main topmasts, so that they will stand until we can 
 reach port and replace them with new ones. Exercised the crew 
 at great guns, cleaned storerooms, etc., and exercised well the 
 blacklisters at the pumps. [The " blacklisters " were sailors 
 whose misconduct had caused them to be placed on the blackhst. 
 As punishment they were assigned to all the disagreeable work 
 of the ship. E. S. M.] 
 
 Mar. 15th. — Extremely warm but quite pleasant all day, the 
 ship sailing along very comfortably but rolling very heavily. 
 Exercised the crew at the great guns, but was obliged to secure 
 
LAND HO I 45 
 
 the 100-pounder rifles for fear of losing them overboard when the 
 ship made her leeward rolls. 
 
 At 1 p. M., being satisfied with her performance under sail alone, 
 and that very much reduced, we connected the propeller and 
 started ahead with the engines, so as to take it easUy and get into 
 Martinique some time to-morrow forenoon. 
 
 At sunset we sighted land from the masthead, which proved to 
 be a little island northeast of Guadeloupe. It is a low, rocky 
 island and can be seen at the distance of fifty-seven miles. We 
 will pass it to-night and steer directly for Martinique, hoping that 
 to-morrow evening, this time, we will be on shore in St. Pierre 
 enjoying ourselves after the first stretch of our cruise, and pre- 
 paring for the second or longest and most disagreeable portion 
 of the trip to China. 
 
 Large schools of flying fish in sight to-day, but could not catch 
 any. 
 
 {Philip's Journal continued in Chapter V.) 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 AS SEEN BY HIS SISTER 
 
 Mary Philip Wheelock 
 
 YOU break my back. 1 wonder if by and by you 
 will break my heart. " These words fell from 
 the lips of a petite young mother as she hfted 
 her sturdy two-year-old son into her lap from the ground 
 where he had been playing. Nearly half a century has 
 passed since the eyes of the fair questioner were closed 
 on the face of her eldest born, and her ears became deaf 
 to ainy answer that Time might have brought to her. 
 
 We, who have been witnesses of the almost innum- 
 erable testimonials of loving admiration and tender 
 regret after the sudden death of Rear-Admiral Philip, 
 believe that all the maternal desires and ambitions 
 would have been satisfied; none of the anxious fears and 
 forebodings reaUzed — ^two possibiUties that must in- 
 evitably confront the mind of every conscientious parent 
 when a little baby-life is launched on this world's tur- 
 bulent sea. 
 
 Descended on the paternal side from rugged Holland 
 ancestors whose names appear among those of our 
 Revolutionary heroes, and from hardy New England, 
 Puritanical stock on his mother's side of the house, no 
 wonder that "Jack" Philip early developed marked 
 fighting propensities and that reports are stiU extant 
 of how he and his brother disturbed family prayers with 
 their fisticuffs long before either child had substituted 
 
A CURELESS WELL 47 
 
 trousers for kilt skirts. Doubtless there are stUl living 
 some people belonging to his native village whose mem- 
 ories will supply instances of his undisputed local fame 
 in the same direction, and of the mischievous lad full 
 of pranks, of grit and cleverness — ^just a duplicate of 
 many another wide-awake American boy. 
 
 A curbless well near his father's barn, usually pro- 
 tected by heavy planks, one day had been carelessly 
 left open. "Wood," as he was then called, had failed 
 to notice the omission, and instead of quietly leading 
 "Old Grey" into the stable, as he was expected to do, 
 he enveloped himself in a buffalo robe and assuming 
 as nearly as possible the appearance of a wild animal, 
 accompanied by groans and hideous sounds, rushed 
 toward the gentle old eqviine. The "second act" had 
 an additional feature that was not down on the pro- 
 gramme, for "Dobbin" backed down into the well and 
 his young tormentor was obliged to hasten for assistance. 
 
 The same buffalo robe did service a second time, 
 with a Uttle variation in the handling, and was lowered 
 from the haymow before the faces of two restive colts, 
 who immediately began to prance and kick with such 
 vigor that the floor was demolished to such an extent 
 that the strong halters which prevented the complete 
 precipitation of the animals into the cellar only in- 
 creased the danger of their being choked to death as 
 they hung suspended between the manger and the 
 cellar floor. 
 
 It was on such and similar occasions that the young- 
 ster's father found it necessary to test the infallibility 
 of "Solomon's Wisdom," which centuries before had 
 given to the world the now sometimes questioned 
 adage, "Spare the rod and spoil the child." 
 
 When about eight years of age, "Wood" was sent 
 
48 AS SEEN BY HIS SISTER 
 
 by his father, a practicing country physician, to an ad- 
 joining town to purchase some medicine which was 
 needed immediately. When but a short distance from 
 the house the carriage, owing to an accident, became 
 disabled for continued use. Instead of retracing his 
 tracks and reporting the condition at headquarters 
 he unhitched his horse, and leaving the vehicle by the 
 side of the road, mounted astride his steed and rode on 
 to a smithy's where he left orders to have the wheel 
 reset during his absence; then resumed his journey 
 to the apothecary's to fulfill his original order. The 
 miles were eventually retraced, the carriage f oxmd satisfac- 
 torily repaired, and home was reached within the stip- 
 ulated time. The recital of his adventure elicited the 
 remark, "An old head on young shoulders." 
 
 Whether at work or play, whatever was the order 
 of the hour, he did his part well, and as he grew older 
 and could vie with the other village boys in their sports 
 and games, he would dive deeper from the projecting 
 timbers of the old covered bridge, stay longer under 
 water and appear again farther down the stream than 
 any of his rivals. In the winter his sled was the swiftest 
 on the lull and his skates could outrace nearly aU those 
 possessed by his playmates. 
 
 He never had the reputation of being a "great 
 student," yet, occasionally, if a young boy was wanted 
 for a day or two in the village store while the regular 
 clerk was absent from his post, "Jack" would be recom- 
 mended because he was "quick at figures." And the 
 same talent furnished "extenuating circumstances" 
 that prevented, at a later period, his dismissal from the 
 Naval Academy when the number of his demerits, 
 some seK-inflicted, rapidly approached the danger line. 
 
 His ideas of honor and truth were marked character- 
 
Philip at the Age of Eight. 
 
"jack's" honesty 49 
 
 istics from his boyhood, as the following incident will 
 illustrate. One day when he and a number of his play- 
 mates were interesting themselves in various ways, 
 long-distance stone-throwing became the momentary 
 attraction, and Jack's ' 'eye' ' following the course of a 
 pebble that had just left his hand, saw the stone shatter 
 a pane of glass in the gable end of a neighbor's house. 
 "Jack" left his companions, notwithstanding their 
 protest at the folly of his intention, proceeded directly 
 to the house and informed its occupants of the mishap; 
 adding that he wished to pay for the damage he had 
 done. The proffered money was accepted to replace 
 the 7x9 inch window pane, although it was well known 
 that the twenty-five cents would make a greater hole 
 in the boy's pocket money than a thousand times that 
 amount would if subtracted from the man's large in- 
 come. ^ 
 
 "Jack" expected everyone to beheve in his integ- 
 rity, and if ever it was subjected to doubt he was will- 
 ing to imdergo deprivation in order to demonstrate 
 that "his word was as good as his bond." Having 
 given his promise not to smoke when allowed outside 
 the Naval Academy grounds, he preferred being de- 
 tained within the inclosure for nearly a year rather 
 than sign a declaration to that effect; saying to the 
 officer in command that if his promise was not a suf- 
 ficient guarantee of good faith, certainly his signature 
 on paper could not be of any great value. 
 
 In later life when his bump of curiosity — a trait 
 frequently attributed exclusively to women — had piloted 
 him within the doors of a sham auction, and he had 
 "bid in" enough cigars of the "sweat shop" order to 
 close out the whole concern (although thinking he was 
 purchasing only one box as a sample), he did penance 
 
50 AS SEEN BY HIS SISTER 
 
 by denying himself a decent smoke until his investment 
 was burned to the last stub. Nor did his friends have 
 much pity on him, certainly not enough to make mar- 
 tyrs of themselves by helping him dispose of this "White 
 Elephant" unless, perhaps, they surreptitiously de- 
 stroyed the offensive weed when * 'Jack " was not cog- 
 nizant of their purpose. 
 
 For the beUef that his religious convictions were not 
 of recent development we find several confirmatory 
 instances. On the fly leaf of a very old copy of the 
 New Testament, stiU extant in the house of a relative, 
 there is written over his own signature, in irregular 
 boyish penmanship, these words: "Would I were a 
 Missionary.' ' 
 
 Many a child imbibes principles at his mother's knee 
 at such an early period of his existence that even mem- 
 ory fails to remind him that they were not acquired 
 intuitively. Once, while staying in the home men- 
 tioned above, ' 'Jack' ' overheard a Uttle child repeating 
 an ancient couplet to the effect that :— 
 
 A Sabbath well spent, brings a week of content 
 
 And peace and joy for the morrow; 
 But a Sabbath profaned, what e'er may be gained, 
 
 Is a certain fore-runner of sorrow. 
 
 His quick ear caught the words and he asked where 
 the child had learned the Unes. On being told that 
 they had come down from his own mother he exclaimed, 
 "Why, I've always known those verses and wondered 
 where I had learned them. " 
 
 When, after the battle of Santiago, Captain Philip 
 called the crew of the Texas to quarters that he might 
 acknowledge in their presence his desire to thank God 
 for the victory, silently and with uncovered heads, even 
 
HIS RESERVE ON RELIGIOUS SUBJECTS 51 
 
 his nearest friends were surprised that he had broken 
 through the silence he had usually maintained on re- 
 ligious subjects. But although his reserve had been 
 habitual, the explanation, not only for this act, but also 
 for the work in which he engaged after the war in con- 
 nection with the naval branch of the Y. M. C. A., is to 
 be found in his own words, spoken fifteen years ago 
 when he was about to become a member of the church. 
 He was much troubled at that time lest some one might 
 think he considered himself "good enough" to take such 
 a step; and in explanation of his act he said to the 
 writer: "If we want a child to learn to read we send 
 him to school, do we not? And so is not the church 
 a school where we are to learn of Christ, and Christ said 
 if men refuse to confess Him before their fellow men 
 He would refuse to confess them before His Father in 
 Heaven." 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 AT MAETINIQUE 
 
 THAT Philip, first, last and always, was an ideal 
 seaman has been fully e\dnced by his splendid 
 professional career. How strong was his love 
 for the service, and especially for "his" ship, is touch- 
 ingly illustrated in a reminiscence from one of his 
 brother officers in the Wachusett, Chief Engineer Edward 
 Biddle Latch, U. S. N. (retired) who says : " By the ar- 
 rangement of the mess-table in the Wachusett during her 
 cruise to the Far East, 1865-68, it so happened that I 
 sat on his right for the two and one-half years — or from 
 the time the Wachusett left Boston until she was ordered 
 home from the China station, at which time Philip was 
 detached and ordered to the flagship Hartford, Rear- 
 Admiral Bell. The transfer almost broke Philip's heart; 
 not only because his vessel, the Wachusett, was home- 
 ward bound, with her homeward pennant streaming from 
 its halliards at the main topgallant masthead until it 
 gracefully touched the water far astern as a parting 
 salutation, but because he felt a true affection for every 
 plank and spar, every shroud and brace of her; he had 
 made her a sailor's ideal home." 
 
 Speaking of an incident that happened while the 
 Wachusett was at Martinique, which reveals Phihp's 
 singular abihty to read character, Mr. Latch says: 
 "PhiUp was a good judge of character and also a good 
 
"me no SPEAKEE ENGLISH" 53 
 
 rememberer of faces. As to the latter characteristic, 
 I recollect that when the Wachusett was being coaled 
 at Martinique there was a long gang plank leading from 
 the ship to the wharf. As was customary at this place,' 
 a large number of women bearing baskets of coal on 
 their heads came aboard in an unbroken file, discharged 
 their burdens into the coal bunkers and returned for 
 more, thus forming a sort of an endless chain. This 
 method of coahng, together with the weighers and tally 
 men, imphes a very busy scene. At least so it seemed 
 to strike one of the ship's company, for he doffed his 
 sailor's clothes, donned a citizen's suit and started for 
 the gate of exit, thinking to enter upon a lark of im- 
 limited extent. It happened, however, that Mr. Philip 
 was at the gate and recognizing the man asked him: 
 'What are you doing here?' Without any hesitancy 
 the man replied 'Me no speakee Enghsh,' but Philip, 
 taking in the situation, without more ado turned him 
 over to the corporal of the guard, who was watching for 
 just such an attempt. Philip narrated this episode at 
 the mess-table with considerable glee, for he was keen 
 to see the hxunorous side of life. 
 
 "As a judge of character, in speaking of a certain 
 petty officer, I heard him say at the mess-table: 'That 
 man is a rascal. He is a good seaman and all right as 
 far as his duties go, but I believe that he is a rascal.' 
 Well, strange as it may appear, it came to my knowledge, 
 after the retm-n of the Wachusett to the United States 
 and the discharge of the ship's company, that the man 
 of whom Mr. PhiUp had spoken was arrested for some 
 offense and sent to an institution for the betterment of 
 sundry wilful personages; thus bearing out the pre-con- 
 ception of his character as expressed above. In the 
 sequel, however, the poor fellow met there an untimely 
 
54 AT MARTINIQUE 
 
 death, having been caught in the belting of the machin- 
 ery in his effort to save another.'' 
 
 philip'b journal of a cruise. 
 {Continued from page 45.) 
 
 Mar. 16th. — To-day broke perfectly beautiful but extremely 
 warm, with the land in sight and quite near at daylight. All during 
 the night we were under very low pressure of steam, so that we 
 might arrive in port comfortably after breakfast. The island 
 abeam was Guadeloupe and that directly ahead Martinique. The 
 latter is a beautiful island, about thirty miles, with a population 
 of some thirty thousand, nearly all being negroes and the greater 
 part of these children, judging from the number I saw in the streets 
 this afternoon. 
 
 The island presented a magnificent appearance as we were 
 steaming along its coast. It is very high and mountainous, and 
 filled with deep ravines and caves. But it is under almost perfect 
 cultivation from the top down to the sea coast. Sugar cane and 
 coffee plantations are in sight as far as the eye can reach. At 9 
 A. M. we steamed past St. Pierre and at 10 a. m. hoisted the "jack" 
 for a pilot and stood into the harbor of Fort de France, anchoring 
 under the guns of Fort St. Louis. 
 
 We were immediately visited by an aide to the Governor, who 
 informed us of the regulations of the port from the Emperor in re- 
 lation to vessels of the "North and South United States," and 
 were told that we could not remain longer than twenty-four hours, 
 except by permission of His Excellency, the Governor-General. 
 On telling this officer our wants and requirements he said that he 
 would grant us the necessary time (for the Governor) to make our 
 repairs and coal ship. Of course we accepted it and will remain 
 about a week. 
 
 Our consul not residing here but in St. Pierre, we received an 
 official visit from our agent (a Frenchman) for the port. The ship 
 is surrounded by "bumboats" containing half clothed natives 
 and all kinds of tropical fruits. At 3 p. m. I went on shore with 
 our captain to pay an official visit to the Governor-General. On 
 landing at the wharf we met an aide from the Governor, who con- 
 ducted us to the palace, where we were presented to the Governor 
 
" HOW MUCH IS GOLD TO-DAY " 55 
 
 in official style. He is an officer (captain) in the Imperial navy, 
 and was extremely polite and attentive, as Frenchmen generally 
 are. After sipping wine and smoking a cigar he showed us all 
 about the palace and grounds. And I can only say that they were 
 magnificent as compared to anything in the United States. His 
 yard and grounds were beautifully laid out, and filled with all the 
 tropical flowers and fruit. It now being in the height of the sea^ 
 son of course everything was overflowing with "some of its kind." 
 He has a great many pets about his grounds, such as the American 
 dove, deer, birds and fowl innumerable. 
 
 But his particular pet is a horse and buggy of pure Yankee 
 breed and manufacture, they having been sent to him by an Amer- 
 ican gentleman in New York. They are great curiosities here to 
 the natives, but looked perfectly natural to us, excepting the ab- 
 sence of one of our U. S. Internal Revenue stamps stuck on the 
 buggy. 
 
 What a great change this is to us, for about ten days ago we 
 were in the ice and snow-bound city of Boston, and here we are in 
 the tropics wearing summer clothing, with all sorts of fiuit ripening. 
 But what seems strangest to us is that, instead of handling green- 
 backs and shin-plasters, we have solid gold and silver in our pockets 
 and are not obliged to ask : " How much is gold to-day?" 
 
 Upon leaving the palace we received a very kind invitation to 
 dine with the Governor-General, which we, of course, were obUged 
 to accept in a military point of view, however much we may dis- 
 like it socially. The town is composed mostly of two-story houses 
 with red tile roofs, the streets are broad, beautifully shaded by 
 tropical trees and are remarkably clean, but filled with children, all 
 asking money from the "rich Americans." 
 
 Sent Mr. Pegram to St. Pierre in a French steamer to commun- 
 icate with our consul. Sent down the topmast and found it to be 
 in a very serious condition. There is great excitement here over 
 our recent victories, and they look upon us in a different light from 
 what they did a short time ago, and the time is fast coming when 
 both France and England will heartily repent of their conduct 
 toward the North in the late war. 
 
 Mar. 17th. — Passed to-day aboard ship. Having carried away 
 our topmast and jibboom on the passage down here I was obliged 
 to send them down and set new ones, also "set up'' the standing 
 rigging fore and aft. All the officers visited shore to-day and came 
 
56 AT MARTINIQUE 
 
 off in the evening very much pleased with the city and natives. 
 The American consul, Mr. Givens, came down from St. Pierre and 
 visited the ship. 
 
 Mar. 18th. — I spent most of this day aboard ship superintending 
 setting up rigging, while the rest of the officers were on shore seeing 
 the town and enjoying themselves. In the afternoon I went with 
 the captain and our consul to pay an official visit to the senior 
 French naval officer in the sloop of war Ach&on, but he was on shore 
 and consequently we did not see him. We inspected his steamer 
 in the Yankee style, and after pronouncing her to be miserable 
 and dirty from truck to keel, and leaving our cards, we took leave 
 of the polite officer of the deck and his dirty craft and went on 
 shore to see their naval dry dock and government yards; and they, 
 also, cannot compare in any respect with those of like kind in the 
 United States — that, at all events, is the opinion of two New York 
 Dutchmen. 
 
 Afterward we walked over a portion of the city to see it in its 
 different locations, so as to be better able to judge of it as a whole. 
 After seeing all we desired we adjourned to the French clubrooms, 
 where we spent a portion of the evening in a very pleasant manner 
 with some of the first French gentlemen of the island; afterward 
 we returned to the shipi and I finished the evening with Pegram, 
 talking over old times, etc., where we were two weeks ago, namely, 
 in Boston, enjoying ourselves at Parker's. 
 
 Mar. 19th. — After attending to the regular Sunday routine of 
 the ship I went ashore with Pegram to see how the town 
 looked on Sunday. After doing some business with our tailor and 
 shoemaker we walked about the place and then went to the out- 
 skirts to see the Crucifix, which is on a hill in view of the whole 
 city from below, and is intended to represent the crucifixion of the 
 Holy Saviour and the two thieves. The figures are life size, in 
 marble, and around them are small images, holy water, burning wax 
 tapers etc. Afterward we visited the monument of the Empress 
 Josephine, which is in the principal square of the city and is made 
 of the finest Italian marble and most beautifully carved. She was 
 born in Martinique and the palace is in full view of our anchorage. 
 
 To-day being Sunday the city was very Hvely, it being a hoUday 
 with them, and all the people from the country coming in town 
 to enjoy themselves. On returning to the ship and completing 
 my work for the day I spent the evening in a very pleasant con- 
 
"a large steamer coming in!" 57 
 
 versation with Pegram and Latch, the subject, of course, being 
 professional, and branching off on the days of the past and plans 
 for the future. 
 
 About 10 P. M. the officer of the deck sent word down to me that 
 "a large steamer was standing in toward the harbor." Of course, 
 we all wished it to be the Shenandoah, in order that we might try 
 the Wachiisett and Florida game over again, only transferring the 
 scene of the affair from Bahia to Martinique. But on coming in 
 she proved to be a French passenger ship, and again our hopes 
 were blighted. 
 
 In reference to this Chief Engineer Latch says : " The 
 episode was rather startUng. The Wachusett left Bos- 
 ton in the early part of March, just prior to the close 
 of the war. Ostensibly she was bound for China but 
 incidentally for the West Indies, in hopes of meeting 
 the Shenandoah. Of the private instructions as to her 
 itinerary nobody on board knew excepting those im- 
 mediately interested, namely, the commanding and 
 executive officers. But that they included a lookout for 
 Confederate cruisers was obvious. Had this strange 
 steamer really been the Shenandoah none could have 
 foretold the outcome, whether on the Wachusett- 
 Florida style, or with the disastrous results which at- 
 tended the British boats when they attacked the Amer- 
 ican privateer General Armstrong in the harbor of Fayal, 
 in 1814. In any case it is altogether improbable that 
 the Wachusett carried instructions to violate the neutral- 
 ity of any foreign port. A good deal, however, is left 
 to the discretion of the commanding officer, whatever 
 his nationality may be. Still, thp mess-room talk, as 
 indicated in Philip's diary, showed not only a readiness 
 but the strong desire of the officers, and, indeed, of the 
 whole ship's company, to meet their antagonist in a 
 lawful fight — blessings on the paradox.' 
 
58 AT MARTINIQUE 
 
 Mar. 20th. — About 6 a. m. the pilot came aboard to take the 
 ship to the coaling wharf. Made all preparations for getting under 
 way and about 9 a. m. made fast to the wharf. The government 
 authorities would not give us coal, so we were obliged to purchase 
 it of a private company. When all was ready the company sent 
 a force of about two hundred women and one hundred and fifty 
 men to "coal us." I was amused to see how nicely they managed 
 it, for coaling with baskets is done very rapidly. The men filled 
 the baskets from an immense pile of coal, while the women took 
 the baskets on their heads, brought them on board and dumped 
 the coal into our bunkers. It seemed quite strange to see the men 
 do the lighter work and the women the heaviest of all. Although 
 they are all negroes I did not exactly approve the style — although 
 I do approve of making negroes work. 
 
 They coal ship very fast, but they also make a tremendously 
 dirty ship, fore and aft, low and aloft. The company has a very 
 nice plan of paying the natives for their work. Instead of hiring 
 them for the day or week, as we do, they pay them for each bas- 
 ket, so they can take their time or work fast, just as they please. 
 For every basket of coal they bring aboard they receive a check, 
 and at night get pay for work actually done. Although the ship 
 is very dirty, several visitors, including ladies and gentlemen, 
 came aboard to-day; but of course they could see but little out- 
 side of the dirt and coal dust. 
 
 At 6 p. M. I went with Captain Townsend to attend the dinner 
 at the Governor-General's, to which we had been invited on the 
 first day in port. We met the Governor and about ten French 
 naval officers, from captains down to sub-lieutenants. We had a 
 delightful time and a pure French dinner in the very best style, 
 and talked or tried to talk first French, then English, and then a 
 mixture of the two ; at all events, we got along remarkably well — 
 considering circumstances. After dinner we returned to the sitting 
 room, sipped coffee, smoked cigars and then repaired to the billiard 
 room and played a game or two with the French officers . . . 
 O. K., but exceedingly sleepy — time 3.15 a. m. 
 
 Mar. 21st. — The forenoon employed in finishing coaling the 
 ship, the same plan, of course, being employed, that of women 
 carrying baskets of coal on their heads. Finished coaling ship 
 about 9.30 a. m. and commenced to clear up a little, and hoisted a 
 "jack" for a pilot to take us round to the front of the city. Cast 
 
OFFICIAL VISITS 59 
 
 ofE from the wharf and steamed round under "four bells" [full 
 speed], ship going unusually fast, no doubt much to the surprise 
 of the Frenchmen. 
 
 While steaming out I found that we had the same pilot who 
 took the Alabama out of Martinique while the San Jacinto was 
 lying in wait for her outside; but the night being very dark and 
 the Confederate plans so well laid, I can see how the San 
 Jack failed to discover the Alabama moving out under cover of 
 the land and gave chase in a direction opposite to that taken by 
 Semmes. For this Admiral Wilkes was censured by the Navy 
 Department. 
 
 Three of our men deserted last night, but as the French police 
 are after them we are likely to have them aboard soon. I do 
 not care particularly about them, but two being "bounty-jumpers" 
 and belonging to the meanest race of white men I wish to get them 
 just on that account. I went ashore this afternoon, just to take 
 a short walk for exercise and do a little business. Returned to 
 the ship and spent the evening very agreeably with the captain in 
 his cabin. 
 
 Mar. 22d. — Spent a portion of the forenoon on shore in a ship- 
 yard surveying and starting a gang of carpenters at work on a 
 spar for a new fore topgallant mast. 
 
 At 11.30 A. M. went with Captain Townsend to make an official 
 visit on the French Admiral in the frigate Bellone, and was treated 
 very poUtely indeed by all the officers and was shown all over the 
 ship. The Bellone was in New York about three months ago, and 
 all the officers were delighted with the city, the United States and 
 the treatment they received from the hands of the people in general. 
 The Bellone is an old sailing-frigate, but converted into an auxiliary 
 steamer a short time after leaving France for Mexico. Of course 
 all sorts of questions were asked and about the same answers re- 
 turned in regard to the affairs in the United States; but we could 
 not inform them that we intended to drive the French out of Mexico 
 as soon as this war is ended. The ship itself is in better order than 
 any French ship I have ever visited, but, of course, she could not 
 compare with vessels of the same class belonging to the United 
 States Navy. 
 
 In the afternoon I secured one of the deserters while on shore; 
 of course stripped him and put him in double irons, as long as the 
 anchor is down for the next three months. 
 
60 AT MARTINIQUE 
 
 Mar. 23d. — ^In the forenoon Pegram and I received calls from 
 the executive officer, a lieutenant and an ensign from the French 
 frigate Bellone. After showing them all over the ship and ex- 
 plaining things in general to them, we went into the wardroom 
 and refreshed the inner man with light wines and cigars. They 
 all were very well behaved gentlemen. Their commodore and 
 flag lieutenant also came on board to see our captain. They 
 could scarcely believe it when we told them that we could steam, 
 under favorable circumstances, upward of twelve knots. They 
 of course referred back to vessels of the same class in their own 
 navy. They were all pleased with the Wachvsett's appearance 
 inboard and admired our battery very much. We are expecting 
 the English admiral at Martinique in a few days. 
 
 Mar. 24th. — There were reports on shore to-day that three Con- 
 federate privateers were just outside the harbor, lying in wait for 
 the Wachrisett and would have revenge for her attack on the 
 Florida. The three vessels were soon sighted, but proved to be 
 the Enghsh admiral's flagship with two corvettes of the British 
 West India squadron, bound to Guadeloupe from the southward. 
 
 At 5 p. M. went aboard the Bellone with our captain and Pegram 
 to dine with the French admiral and his staff, and after enjoying 
 an excellent dinner in the French style, we passed a very pleasant 
 evening with them. There were present at the table the admiral, 
 two captains, two Ueutenants, one ensign, the fleet surgeon, pay- 
 master and priest. Everything was served up in the nicest 
 style. 
 
 Mar. 25th. — As is customary on Saturday mornings, we spent 
 most of the time in cleaning ship for Sunday inspection. Saturday 
 afternoon is given to the men to repair their clothing and to pass 
 the time as they choose. At 1 p. m. the French admiral came 
 aboard to look at our ship. Our captain and executive officer 
 [Philip] received them at the gangway in the customary manner, 
 with the guard at "present arms." After showing them every- 
 thing of interest about the ship we repaired to the cabin, where an 
 excellent lunch and cigars had been "set out" by the captain's 
 attendants. After discussing and explaining affairs at home in 
 regard to the war the admiral expressed himself very much pleased 
 with the ship and took leave in the same formal style. During 
 the conversation with the French officers I learned that they 
 partially sympathized with the South, but with us in an official 
 
A SUNDAY ASHORE 61 
 
 character. They, of course, will change their minds when we 
 finish the war and learn the truth of both sides of this home diflS- 
 culty, or when we shall poUtely invite them to withdraw from th«r 
 rich possessions in Mexico. 
 
 Mar. 26th. — After attending to the usual Sunday routine of the 
 ghip, I went ashore in the afternoon to hear the garrison band at 
 Fort St. Louis play at the public promenade. I spent a portion 
 of the evening at the club. Nearly all the inhabitants of Fort de 
 France were out this evening enjoying the promenade and music. 
 They presented a very interesting spectacle to us foreigners, for 
 they were dressed in many tropical costumes, freely intermingled 
 with the mihtary costumes of the garrison. 
 
 In the afternoon sent the cutter with an officer round to the 
 wharf and towed off to the ship the new topmast. After getting 
 it alongside, got it inboard and "pointed it," preparatory to send- 
 ing it aloft to-morrow morning. 
 
 Mar. 27th. — After making several futile efforts to fit the new 
 topmast I sent it down and landed it in the starboard waist. The 
 captain of the Bellone with several French gentlemen came aboard 
 at noon to breakfast with our captain, Pegram and I being invited 
 also. We had a very pleasant time, and were much amused with 
 the account the French captain gave us of his experiences in New 
 York, and his description of the customs of New Yorkers and 
 Yankees in general. 
 
 The French gunboat AchA-on left harbor to-day with some 
 French soldiers for the island of Guadeloupe. They would not 
 send the troops in a transport because the authorities here have 
 a report that two Yankee privateers have lately left Boston to 
 prey upon Frencji commerce in the Gulf and along the West In- 
 dies. We have told them that we are the latest from Boston and 
 that we know nothing of the report and believe it to be utterly 
 groundless. But still they will be on the safe side, and will not 
 trust their soldiers in an unprotected transport. If the report 
 had been that the two privateers had left Boston for the purpose 
 of preying on Engfish commerce it might have some shadow of 
 truth. 
 
 We are trying to get ready to go to sea to-morrow, as the rumor 
 still floats around town that a couple of Gonfederate cruisers are 
 outside in waiting for the Wachiisett, and of course, we must go and 
 look for them — either "for better or worse." 
 
62 AT MARTINIQUE 
 
 Mar. 28th. — Sent aloft the topmast, fitted it, and stayed the 
 mast, crossed the topsail yard and reported ready for duty. Re- 
 ceived on board two hundred and fifty bags of coal, replenished 
 the sand locker and busied myself about the deck all day in getting 
 ready for sea. 
 
 The French mail steamer from Vera Cruz arrived this evening, 
 but what news she brought from the United States we have not 
 yet learned — probably none. This is a line of mail steamers from 
 France that the Emperor established since the occupation of 
 Mexico by French troops. 
 
 In the evening a boat's crew from the French steamer Casa 
 Bianca came alongside, said that they had deserted and wanted 
 to ship in the Wachusett. This, of course, we would not Usten to, 
 and sent them to the authorities on shore to receive merited pun- 
 ishment. This i^ not the first case of the kind we have had since 
 we have been in this port. 
 
 Mar. 29th. — Made all necessary preparations for going to sea, 
 and sent the paymaster ashore to settle up all the Wachusett's 
 bills. At 1 p. M. the English line of battle ship Duncan, with 
 Admiral Hope aboard, came in from Guadeloupe and anchored. 
 She saluted the French flag with twenty-one guns, which was re- 
 turned by Fort St. Louis. The French and English admirals 
 called upon each other and received their customary salute and 
 answer of fifteen guns. Sent a boat to the Duncan with the usual 
 compliments of our commanding officer. 
 
 At 5 p. M., being all ready, called "all hands up anchor" with 
 the intention of leaving port, but in turning round we ran on the 
 rocks under Fort de France and stuck there. The English and 
 French admirals immediately sent officers on board tendering 
 the assistance of their two ships and directly afterward sent all their 
 launches with anchors and cables to assist us in getting off. We 
 planted two heavy anchors astern and sent a heavy hawser to the 
 French frigate and hove away upon them all; but, although we 
 had topsails set aback and backed strong with the engines, we 
 could not start the ship. We worked in this way until 9 p. m., 
 when the pilot announced that it was "dead low water," so that 
 there were no hopes of getting her off to-night. All the English- 
 men with their boats returned to the Duncan and the French- 
 men to the Bellone, intending to renew their assistance at 
 daybreak. 
 
A PERILOUS POSITION ' 63 
 
 The French admiral sent a couple of lighters alongside and all 
 of his small coal bags, and we have commenced to "lighten her" 
 by taking out the coal from the bunkers and placing it in the 
 lighters, in the hope that this will float her off. It is quite danger- 
 ous here; although directly under the walls of Fort St. Louis we 
 are two feet out of water at the bow and are lying on coral and 
 rocks, while the ship is thumping heavily at intervals, which, of 
 course, can do her no good and a great amount of damage may 
 arise from it. The French in this case have been unusually and 
 extremely kind to us, doing and offering us everything in the 
 power of their admiral to perform, and will "remain by us" until 
 we are afloat again. The English admiral, also, has been most 
 unexpectedly kind to us and obliging, sending us all the assistance 
 in officers, men, boats, anchors, etc., that was in his power; and 
 his flag captain came on board to offer his services to our captain. 
 This was the more surprising to us in view of the fact that it was 
 this Admiral Hope who befriended the Florida's people at the 
 time the Wachv^ett captured her in Bahia. We had every reason 
 to believe that the Enghsh admiral, so far from desiring to aid us, 
 would have been only too glad to have seen the Wachusett lay 
 down her bones right then and there. 
 
 ,At work and up all night in transporting the guns aft and striking 
 up the coal in the bunkers and placing it on the lighters alongside. 
 
 Mar. 30th. — After being up all night taking out coal and setting 
 taut the hawsers we had the pleasure of seeing the Wachusett 
 floated off when it was high tide at daylight. We moved over and 
 anchored in seven fathoms abreast the Bellone. The English and 
 French launches weighed their anchors and returned to their 
 several ships. Began replacing all the coal in our bunkers and 
 cleaned up the decks again. The French admiral, with his usual 
 kindness, sent a boat with a diver and his apparatus to examine 
 the Wachusett's bottom. Went down and found that there was 
 but very little damage, two pieces of copper off and the shoe started 
 a little athwartships. This will delay us a day or two longer, but 
 considering all the circumstances I think that we were very for- 
 tunate in getting afloat with so little'damage. 
 
 It is very mortifying to get aground just as you are leaving port, 
 but it is more so when you are compelled to accept assistance from 
 the English and French at a time when so much ill-feeling exists 
 against them in the l/nited States for their acts of assistance to 
 
64 AT MARTINIQUE 
 
 the Confederacy. None of our officers had intended to call on the 
 Englishmen, but after their kind acts last night we called on them 
 to-day. 
 
 Mar. 31st. — The divers from the French flagship were engaged 
 in replacing copper on the ship's bottom. They finished at 11 
 A. M. and reported the ship ready for sea. At sunset the French 
 police brought one of our deserters aboard. 
 
 April 1st. — At daybreak the pilot came aboard, and at 10 a. m. 
 we steamed out of the harbor and stood up the coast, close to the 
 land, and at 11 a. m. came to anchor in St. Pierre, just off the town. 
 The U. S. S. Connecticut came in at 3 p. m. from Guadeloupe. 
 Although she left Boston when we did, and of course had no later 
 news, yet it seemed hke meeting one from home and consequently 
 we all went on board of her and spent the evening. We found the 
 officers delighted with the ship and their cruising grounds, which 
 are all over the Gulf of Mexico and among the West Indies. 
 
 The first of last month, when we sailed from Boston, she left for 
 the West and we for the East Indies, and did not expect to see each 
 other again for three years. But here, unexpectedly, within a 
 month, we run across each other again, one on her station and the 
 other thousands and thousands of miles from her destination. 
 
 April 2d. — (Sunday) I went on shore with Pegram to see the 
 town and to spend the forenoon out of the ship. I found the city 
 to be like all the towns in the tropics, rather irregularly laid out 
 and very old. The houses are two stories high, built of stone or 
 brick, and with commqn tile roofs. The streets are narrow but very 
 clean, with a stream of water on each side to carry off to the sea 
 all refuse. The streets are all filled with children, white and 
 black, from five to fifteen years of age, all enjoying themselves in 
 the fresh water that comes down from the mountains. 
 
 We tried to procure horses to ride out in the country, but the 
 only ones to be found were miserable, worn out nags, so we did not 
 take them or go outside the city limits. There are no places of 
 amusement here now; it being Lent the operas and theatres are all 
 closed, so we are obliged to amuse ourselves in surveying the town 
 and playing the national game of billiards while on shore. The 
 only places to be seen are the pubhc gardens, Governor's residence, 
 the cathedral, and the sights from the mountains seaward. With 
 all the advantages of climate, etc., I prefer our northern temperate 
 zone to anything I have yet seen in the tropics. 
 
SOME "YOUNG FRENCH LADIES*' 65 
 
 At 6 P. M. I went on shore again, and with Captain Townsend 
 dined at the house of the American consul, Mr. Givens. We had 
 a very pleasant time, and spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. 
 Givens and two or three young French ladies. It was decidedly 
 the pleasantest time on shore I have had since leaving Boston; 
 but, of course, it was only an aggravation to know a person for so 
 short a period, then have to go to sea to forget all about former 
 acquaintances. 
 
 April 3d. — Cleaned up the ship a little extra this morning in 
 anticipation of receiving some visitors from the shore during the 
 day. [It seems that the "two or three young French ladies" were 
 expected — E. S. M.] At noon Mr. Givens and wife came aboard 
 and took breakfast with the captain, I joining the party. As Mrs. 
 Givens was an American lady the captain had had everything ar- 
 ranged as nearly Hke home as possible, so as to let her see that a 
 man of war was not such a bad place to live in as was generally 
 supposed. Having a lady with us for breakfast this morning we 
 readily imagined that we were a little nearer home and the civil- 
 ized world generally, instead of being so far from everybody of 
 interest to us. 
 
 After breakfast some French gentlemen and three of their lady 
 friends came aboard to see the Wachusett. After showing 
 them all over the ship we adjourned to the upper cabin, where the 
 captain set out a very nice lunch with wine, and we had an ex- 
 ceedingly pleasant time of it. All of the ladies had been in the 
 United States and could speak English, which, of course, made it 
 more agreeable to all of us. While down in the wardroom, the 
 ladies naturally wished to see my room, and on being shown in said 
 that it was altogether too small to occupy for so long a time (three 
 years) without change and therefore I received much sympathy 
 etc., for being obhged to leave everything of comfort behind and 
 to content myself with my little 6x8 foot locker. 
 
 After seeing everything of interest on board the ladies returned 
 to their quiet homes in St. Pierre, and had we not expected to get 
 under way at sunset and go to sea, I would certainly have accepted 
 their kind invitations to spend the evening at their homes and en- 
 joyed myself still more. At all events it has been the pleasantest 
 day of any to me since I joined the Wachusett at Boston, and 
 now I only wish that we could remain here a week or two 
 longer. 
 
66 AT MARTINIQUE 
 
 Last night the EngUsh mail steamer touched here from St. 
 Thomas and brought glorious news from the United States of 
 continued victories of our noble armies — and gold down to 162! 
 This news put us in the best of spirits for the rest of the day. May 
 to God that all the news that we may hereafter receive be of the 
 most glowing character, until finally we hear of peace and pros- 
 perity throughout our whole country, North, South, East and West. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 A ROMANTIC CRUISE 
 
 PHILIP'S appreciation of the beautiful nowhere 
 appears to better advantage than in that section 
 of his diary Lq which he describes the ship's 
 leisurely passage across the Atlantic, from Martinique to 
 the Cape de Verdes, almost the exact reverse of the 
 course taken by Cervera thirty-three years later. 
 "Jack's " descriptions of storms, calms, sunsets and 
 moonlight on the ocean, the nervous efforts of the 
 pretty WachVjSett to "run away" from a "rotary 
 storm," her appointment with the dashing "trade 
 winds " at a certain time and lonely spot on the Atlan- 
 tic, her flirtation with the " trades " until in a moment 
 of caprice she jilted them and ran off laughing with the 
 rival "variables," are weU worthy of preservation. 
 
 PHILIP'S PRIVATE JOtTRNAL OF A CRUISE 
 
 April 4th, 1865. — At daylight called "all hands, up anchor," 
 got under way and stood out of the harbor of St. Pierre and 
 skirted along the island northward. Passed in between Mar- 
 tinique and Dominica and stood eastward to clear the island of 
 Guadeloupe. At sunset we lost sight of land, and, if nothing hap- 
 pens, it will be a long, long time before we will again see it on the 
 American continent or the adjacent islands. Would that we were 
 as near home on the return from the East Indies, instead of just 
 commencing this long cruise. I know that there would be many 
 more lighter hearts than we now have among us. Carried out 
 
68 A ROMANTIC CRUISE 
 
 the routine of exercising the men at the great guns in the morn- 
 ing and small arms in the afternoon, and making everything snug 
 about the ship for a long passage to the next port. 
 
 Several sail in sight during the day and all standing northw9,rd 
 under all sail, each seeming anxious to make the best possible 
 time to some port in the United States. I wished several times 
 that I was on board one of them, and bound for New York instead 
 of Hong Kong. The sea very smooth all day, the ship steaming 
 "head to wind" and rolling quite deep, considering the sea that 
 was on. ' 
 
 Released the six deserters, to be confined again as we enter the 
 next port for safe-keeping for Uncle Sam. 
 
 April 5th. — Very pleasant all day, with light trade winds from 
 the north and east. At noon stopped the engines, banked fires 
 and disconnected the propeller, in order to save our coal for par- 
 ticular occasions, as we have a very long passage to make and 
 only nine days coal aboard! 
 
 April 6th. — Although the day broke pleasantly, toward noon 
 the atmosphere changed and gave warning of an approaching 
 storm, and in the afternoon it began in all its fury from the north- 
 east, and continued, with the sea increasing, until sunset, when we 
 close-reefed the topsails and made all snug for the night. This 
 being a rotary storm and the wind increasing from the northeast, 
 we knew that the center of it would be to the southeast of the ship 
 and that we were on the edge of the circle, so by running eastward 
 we were fast approaching the vortex. In order to avoid this, we 
 wore ship and stood to the north and west, and, as we sailed on, 
 the storm died away and passed in its fury astern and to leeward- 
 
 We are still under close-reefed topsails, standing northward, 
 with a moderate gale blowing and a very heavy sea running. The 
 ship is rolling heavily and behaving very badly under the circum- 
 stances. And this is another case I record where it is more pleasant 
 on shore among friends than afloat in a gale of wind. 
 
 April 7th. — After wearing ship last evening and standing north- 
 westward, we soon had quite good weather, and by midnight we 
 were about out of its influence. Took in and furled all sail, and 
 started ahead with the engines, standing northward. At daylight 
 still blowing very heavily, with a rough sea setting in from the 
 northeast with heavy rain squalls, the ship laboring badly. At 
 11 A. M. it cleared up and we again headed for the Cape de Verdes 
 
A "most beautiful sunset" 69 
 
 But as the wind died out in the afternoon, and the ship was not 
 heading within five points of her course, we took in all sail and 
 steamed northeast, so as to get out of the trade winds and strike 
 the variables. 
 
 Unable to exercise to-day on account of the ship rolling so deeply 
 as to be unsafe to cast loose the great guns. In rolling to-day 
 we shipped water over the hammock nettings in the waist. 
 
 To-night we had one of the most beautiful sunsets that I have 
 ever seen at sea, the heaven presenting a magnificent sight in 
 the west, while there were two superb rainbows in the opposite 
 quarter. 
 
 Busy to-day in getting out an inventory of the stores in the 
 different departments, just to "show up" more plainly how miser- 
 ably this ship was fitted out at the Boston Navy Yard to go on 
 a long cruise. Everything is parting and carrying away in rough 
 weather, so that it is hard to tell what to trust in the shape of 
 masts, spars or rigging; and in the empty state in which our 
 storerooms are at present (considering the short time from home) 
 we have hard work to replace anything carried away. 
 
 April 8th. — Beautifully pleasant and clear all day, the ship 
 rolling so much as to take in water over the rails and gangway. 
 As the rigging on the foremast became slack, we had to set it up 
 to prevent the spars from being carried away. At noon a bark 
 homeward bound hove in sight. As we have only one hundred 
 and fifteen tons left aboard, we stopped the engines, banked fires 
 and continued under sail. Passed the evening in the wardroom 
 with the officers in the usual Saturday night style. 
 
 April 9th (Sunday). — Very strong trades aU day, the ship having 
 just as much as she can do to carry the topgallant sails. Standing 
 northward in order to get out of the northeast trades and strike 
 the "variables," in the hope of finding them prevailing from the 
 southwest at this season of the year so they will carry us over to 
 the coast of Africa. 
 
 To-day we left the tropics and are again in the north temperate 
 zone and find a decided change in the atmosphere, cooler than 
 the climate of Martinique. Although it is cooler, yet it is not cold 
 (the thermometer being at 80 degrees) and we indulge in the 
 thought that we are again nearer home. But this can last for 
 only a day or two longer, for then we head eastward, and every 
 day thereafter we will increase the distance between the ship and 
 
70 A EOMANTIC CRUISE 
 
 thousands and thousands of miles will separate us. At 10 a.m. 
 inspected all hands at their quarters and the ship thoroughly, 
 after which called all hands to muster and the surgeon read divine 
 service to the officers and men assembled on the quarter deck. 
 This day has been one of the pleasantest I have experienced since 
 leaving Boston. 
 
 April 10th. — Trades continued strong and fresh all day, the 
 Wachusett, as usual, rolling very deep. On this day we came 
 near losing our 100-pounder rifles through the rolling. The weather 
 seems again more natural and like that of New York, for we 
 have laid aside our summer clothing and have returned to the 
 thicker and warmer styles; and during the night watches the 
 officer of the deck may be seen pacing up and down the quarter 
 deck with his large overcoat on. 
 
 April 11th. — The trade winds still blowing from the eastward, 
 but not so strong and fresh. Two sail in sight, one a fore-and-aft 
 schooner and the other a brig, both on the wind, standing south- 
 eastward. We wished and tried to speak them, as they were lately 
 out from the United States, and undoubtedly had news later than 
 March 5th, which was our latest. But we could not get them, 
 as they were too far windward and we did not wish to expend 
 the coal to run up and overhaul them. 
 
 April 12th. — Very light southerly breezes until sunset, when the 
 wind died away, we having run out of the region of trade winds 
 and into that of the calms preceding that of the "variables." 
 Took in and furled all sail and started ahead with the engines, 
 the ship heading northeast so as to run across the calm belt and 
 at the same time make a little of our easting. A large ship in 
 sight under all sail heading northeast, but being a "clipper," she 
 beat us at sailing and was soon hull down to windward. 
 
 At sunset a large piece of timber floated past. We lowered the 
 dingey and Pegram pulled off to examine it, but finding it to be 
 useless for the ship, he returned without it. After getting on 
 board he remarked, "It almost made me seasick to see the old 
 Wachusett roll so much when there was no cause for it" — ^it being 
 almost a dead calm at the time. Hoisted in the boat and continued 
 on our course. 
 
 This is one of the most beautiful evenings at sea that can ever 
 be experienced. It is a dead calm, the water as smooth as a mill- 
 pond, with the exception of the long, graceful swell, a full bright 
 
IN A PERILOUS POSITION 71 
 
 moon and not a cloud to be seen in the sky. As a result we are 
 all in excellent spirits, and will continue so as long as we are blessed 
 with such weather. 
 
 April 13th. — At sunrise this morning fell in with a light breeze 
 from the southwest, which is the wind that we came up from Mar- 
 tinique for, in order to carry us across the Atlantic under sail. 
 At 8 A. M. stopped, disconnected the engines, banked fires and made 
 all sail to studding sails 'low and aloft, and headed her to the east- 
 ward to run down the longitude. A school of whales in sight and 
 near the ship this afternoon. 
 
 April 14th. — Carried out the usual routine, varied by reading, 
 at sunset, the " Fire bill '' to the officers and crew. 
 
 April 15th. — At 8 a. m. this morning, in a very heavy rain squall, 
 the wind suddenly changed to the northeast, throwing the ship 
 flat aback, with all sails to studding sails on her. Obliged to take 
 in the studding sails, brace round on the other tack and reduce 
 down to topsails and fore and aft sails. As the wind came out in 
 great violence and very suddenly, before the Wachusett could be 
 brought on the right tack with yards and sails trimmed, she had 
 gathered "stern-board" and was thus placed in quite a perilous 
 position. Blowing very hard all day and the rain came down in 
 torrents until about midnight, when it partially cleared up. The 
 night is very dark and "dirty,", with heavy winds still from the 
 northeast. The sea is rough and very phosphorescent, which 
 gives everything a ghastly appearance. I wonder how the weather 
 
 is this Saturday night in C . Would that I was there instead 
 
 of being tossed with the old Wachusett here in mid-ocean! 
 
 April 16th (Sunday). — A beautiful day from sunrise to sunset, 
 calm, with sea as smooth as possible, and the old ship lying lazily 
 on the gently heaving bosom of the ocean, with " yards-a-box " 
 for wind; sails flapping against the masts and rigging, and the 
 vessel just moving with the swells as she heads to all or any point 
 of the compass. 
 
 At midday a small bottle was seen a short distance from the 
 ship. We lowered the dingey and sent her for it and brought it 
 on board. After opening it, found it to be empty. Evidently it 
 had been in the water some time, for it was covered with barnacles 
 and small shell-fish. Ships at sea always make a practice of picking 
 up everjrthing of the kind, if it is possible to do so, for seamen, 
 when in a gale of wind or in distress, often write down on a piece 
 
72 A ROMANTIC CEUISE 
 
 of paper their names, position, etc., put it in a bottle, seal it up 
 and heave it overboard to be picked up at a later day, so that if 
 they perish some trace may still be had of their misfortune. It 
 was for this reason that we stopped to pick up what we first sup- 
 posed to contain tidings of some fellow-wanderer. 
 
 April 17th. — Very beautiful, with fresh breezes from the west 
 all day. This is another of those days when all the officers are 
 delighted with life at sea. 
 
 April 18th. — The weather changed during the night and at day- 
 light it was raining furiously, with every sign of bad weather close 
 on board, but the wind was still light from the west. About 1 v. m. 
 the wind suddenly hauled to the north and blew very fresh and 
 continued to increase and haul to the east until 5 p. m., when we 
 were obliged to close-reef the topsails, running before the wind; 
 the ship logging twelve knots under this reduced sail. Every 
 appearance of a bad stormy night before us, so I made everything 
 snug. 
 
 Just before sunset a beautiful rainbow was seen extending from 
 horizon to horizon, spanning the sky, and as the sailors say, "A 
 rainbow at night is a sailor's delight," we expected it to clear up 
 and give us good weather again; so just as the sun set, it broke 
 out and the storm gave signs of abating. It "broke up" as the 
 sun disappeared beneath the western horizon, and at 8 p. m. we 
 shook out the reefs and hoisted the topsails and made more sail, 
 again standing on our course southeast by east. 
 
 A large sh?.p in sight and crossed our bow, standing northeast 
 bound for Europe. She was an Englishman. In the afternoon 
 a Yankee bark hove in sight from the north, heading south. We 
 might have hove to and spoke him and received news from home, 
 but he came up in this heavy squall and by the time we were under 
 close-reefed topsails, he, being before the wind, was hull down to 
 leeward, and consequently we missed that chance of hearing from 
 home. 
 
 April 19th. — The ship rolling very deep and heavily all last 
 night and to-day, shipping seas over the hammock netting and 
 gangways. On account of her motion it is very uncomfortable on 
 board. One cannot eat, sleep, read or write with any degree of 
 pleasure, because you are obliged to brace yourself and hold on to 
 anything fast to keep from going from one side of the wardroom 
 to the other. While eating our meals, our plates and dishea 
 
HUNGRY FOR NEWS 73 
 
 would take an angle of forty-five degrees if we did not hold and 
 balance them with the roll. So much for going to sea when one 
 ought to remain on shore! 
 
 Sixteen hundred miles from Cape de Verde Islands to-day and 
 only seventy tons of coal aboard! 
 
 April 20th. — During the mid-watch last night we passed very 
 close to a ship standing northeast. We are now forty-seven days 
 out from Boston and are in just the latitude and longitude that 
 we ought to have been in when eleven days out, so that thirty-six 
 days are already added to our passage to China. 
 
 April 21st. — One bark in sight to-day, evidently bound for Eu- 
 rope. I wish we had an opportunity to get a New York newspaper 
 of late date, so we could get some news from the States. I have 
 no doubt, though, that, long ere this, our armies are in quiet posses- 
 sion of Richmond and that the war is about ended. Would that 
 we could be officially informed of it. 
 
 April 22d. — Nothing of special interest occurred to-day, and we 
 worried through the day the best we could. In the evening, 
 however, we had the usual Saturday night's toasts in remembrance 
 of those at home. 
 
 April 23d (Sunday). — This has been one of the most beautiful 
 days that can ever be experienced at sea ; not a cloud in the sky, 
 sea smooth, ship on her course with studding sails set on both 
 sides, and with as much wind as we desire for the safety of our 
 yards and masts. It has been a noble day for thought and re- 
 flection, and in taking advantage of it my thoughts naturally ran 
 back to the banks of the grand little Hudson, and there I allowed 
 them to linger as long as time would permit, and although I cannot 
 see or communicate with the cherished ones there for a long time 
 to come, yet I console myself with the thought and behef that 
 they are all still in the possession of health; and, perhaps, that 
 this Sunday evening they will think of an absent one and finally 
 offer a prayer for the lonely bark here in mid-ocean. Would that 
 I could take my place this evening in the family g'-oup. 
 
 April 24th. — Very squally, with rain and frequent shifts of wind 
 all day. At daybreak a small brig hove in sight and about 9 A. m. 
 passed within a quarter of a mile of him, exchanged colors, she 
 proving to be Enghsh, bound for the coast of Brazil. We did not 
 speak her, for, being English and having strong sympathies with 
 the South, we could not place any reliance on what she might say, 
 
74 A ROMANTIC CRUISE 
 
 SO we continued on our several ways in silence. We ran out of 
 the limits of the " variable winds " to-day and expect to reach the 
 northeast trades to-morrow, which will carry us to our immediate 
 destination. 
 
 April 25th. — Very pleasant all day, but no signs of the trades. 
 The barometer fell very low and suddenly, with no indication of 
 a gale approaching; but there must be some severe storm blowing 
 not far from us or our glass would not be so troubled. At sunset 
 the weather changed and gave very positive signs of a cyclone 
 passing near to us, but fortunately it passed clear of our track. 
 To-night the sea is quite high, and as it comes up astern of us it 
 overtakes and breaks alongside, and very often in her roUing the 
 Wachusett is too accommodating and takes in large quantities on 
 her deck, which is very uncomfortable to all. But, then, this we 
 must expect and abide by, as it is our business to " Gp down to 
 the sea in ships.". 
 
 April 26th. — As was anticipated last night, we soon ran out of 
 the influence of the cyclone. The breeze to-day gradually died 
 out as we approached the vicinity of the "calm belt," between 
 the variables and the trades. By 10 p. m. it was nearly calm, 
 when we got up steam and went ahead at full speed, as we are 
 only four hundred miles from the Cape de Verdes and we will 
 soon run down that distance, and will then make preparations for 
 the next "long leg" t,o the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 April 27th. — Very pleasant all day, with very little or no sea 
 on. A bark hove in sight holding the same course as ourselves. 
 
 April 28th. — We were under steam and sail until sunset, when 
 we stopped and disconnected the propeller, as^we had only about 
 fifty-five miles to make before reaching land. We just "jogged 
 along " under steam, as we did not want to be bothered with land 
 under our lee during the night. The crew were busy this after- 
 noon examining their account on the ship's books, so as to know 
 how much they would have to spend when they got ashore. 
 
 April 29th. — At twelve o'clock last night we hove-to under fore 
 and aft sail to await daylight, the land being close under our lee. 
 At daylight Porto Grande was about thirty miles dead to wind- 
 ward of us, so we took in all sail and started ahead with the en- 
 gines, steaming along the northern coast of San Antonio Island, 
 about three miles from the beach. As the wind was directly 
 ahead and very strong our progress was slow. 
 
Washington's head 75 
 
 At 1 p. H. we rounded the eastern point of the island and kept 
 away for St. Vincent, and at 3 p. m. we came to anchor in the 
 Bay of Porto Grande. We found a great many vessels at anchor, 
 mostly all English merchantmen, but not a single American flag 
 except the one we carry and can defend. 
 
 On anchoring, the Portuguese Health Officer boarded, and after 
 the customary formalities, gave us the liberty of the port, but as 
 yet, not one of our officers has availed himself of this privilege to 
 go ashore. The island of St. Vincent is very barren; not a "blade 
 of grass" or tree is to be seen. The town of Porto Grande is a 
 small place of about one thousand inhabitants, English and Por- 
 tuguese, the authorities being Portuguese. The town is used as 
 a coaling station for English steamers. Everything that is con- 
 sumed here is brought from some other part of the world. The 
 fruit, however, is brought from adjacent islands, which are very 
 fertile. The bay or anchorage is excellent and very commodious, 
 with plenty of water for the largest ships. 
 
 Across the bay to the south and on top of the mountains a 
 profile of a man's head can be seen, and aU Americans call it Wash- 
 ington's head; and, in fact, a great resemblance can be traced, 
 and with very httle stretch of the imagination his profile as seen any- 
 where at home can be made out; the forehead, eyes and nose, 
 with chin are, in fact, excellent, but the part for the top of the 
 head and the hair is not so good. Although we call it Washing- 
 ton, all Englishmen call it the Duke of Wellington. Each party is 
 at liberty to name it what it pleases, yet the Hkeness is there and 
 more pronounced than that of the " Old Man of the Mountains " 
 in the Catskills, and familiar to us aU along the Hudson. 
 
 Busy all day cleaning ship for port, but before we anchored I 
 confined those six men who had deserted at Martinique, so that 
 they would be safe. 
 
 April 30th (Sunday). — In the afternoon the officers who had 
 permission visited the shore to see and be disgusted with the place. 
 In the course of the forenoon a small Yankee whaling schooner 
 came in and anchored near us, flying the first Yankee flag we have 
 seen (on a merchantman) since we left the United States. It was 
 a very agreeable sight; although at the mast-head of a small 
 whaler, yet it made us all feel as if we were a little nearer to the 
 land of the free. 
 
 May 1st. — At daylight this morning we got under way and ran 
 
76 A ROMANTIC CRUISE 
 
 closer inshore where the water was smoother, so that we could 
 coal with more facility. Busy coaling ship all day. Finished at 
 sunset and cleaned up ship for the night. The coal was towed 
 alongside in large lighters by a small tug and we had merely to 
 discharge them. It was bought from an English firm and they 
 were very accommodating, being willing to give us everything in 
 their power. Coahng a steamer is one of the most disagreeable 
 tasks, the dirt penetrating into every corner. For this reason I 
 would hke to cruise in the old saihng ships, as in days long gone 
 
 by- 
 
 Another Yankee whaling schooner came in this afternoon and 
 anchored near us. She has been out from home over fourteen 
 months, and so, of course, has no news. The schooner that came 
 in yesterday went out again to her cruising grounds in search of 
 hump-backs. 
 
 May 2d. — To-day took in about ten tons of coal in bags and 
 stowed them away on deck. Took in provisions, etc., to last us 
 until we reached the Cape of Good Hope. Generally busy about 
 the deck in fitting up and reeving off new gear aloft as a preventive 
 against the heavy weather off the Cape. 
 
 I went on shore in the morning on business, but soon, getting 
 disgusted with the town, returned on board, perfectly satisfied 
 to remain by the old Wachtisett so long as we had no better place 
 than Porto Grande to visit. There were but few white people 
 in the town, the greater part being of African descent, speaking 
 a jargon of Portuguese, English and French, with a little of the 
 African dialect mingled with it. The houses are low and have a 
 most miserable appearance, being painted a dirty white or cream 
 color. Taken altogether, Porto Grande is the poorest place I 
 have ever visited. 
 
 Some excitement in the bay this afternoon as we watched the 
 little whaler catch a whale that had happened to wander, with 
 her calf, farther inside the bay than was prudent for her. 
 
 May 3d. — In the forenoon I called all hands to quarters and 
 exercised the gun crews in firing shot and shell, using Bird Rock 
 as a target. Although this was the first time that our guns have 
 been fired this cruise, the men did very good shooting. The old 
 rock was hit several times, and every time that it was hit the 
 crew of the little whaler would mount the "rail" and give three 
 cheers. They seemed to be delighted with our exercise. 
 
NEWS FROM HOME, AT LASt! 77 
 
 In the afternoon a large English mail steamer stopped here to 
 coal — but still no news from home. 
 
 May 4th. — The wind was very strong all day, rendering it very 
 disagreeable for our boats to land. Consequently, very few of our 
 officers went ashore. At one time the wind was so strong that we 
 began dragging anchor, but checked it by letting out more cable. 
 A small French steamer from the coast of Africa and an English 
 collier from Cardiff came in — but still no news from home. 
 
 Last night one of the deserters who was confined in double 
 irons (hands ironed behind) jumped overboard, and undoubtedly 
 the rascal was drowned alongside, as there was no chance for him 
 to get ashore or to any of the vessels near us. 
 
 May 5th. — At 8 a. m. the French gunboat Castor came in and 
 anchored. Sent an officer aboard her with the usual proffers of 
 services, etc. She had on board the governor of Senegambia and 
 family, who were returning to France. But no news from home. 
 
 May 6th. — At daylight the French mail steamer P/luse, from 
 Marseilles for Bahia, came in and anchored, and at 8 a. m. two 
 other French mail steamers came in. We sent a boat with an 
 officer to each steamer for newspapers and news generally. By 
 the P/lrise we learned the sad tidings of President Lincoln's death 
 and of the attempted murder of General Grant and Mr. Seward. 
 As this was in all the different papers we were obliged to believe 
 it, and, consequently, we all felt low-spirited all day and had the 
 flag at half-mast. 
 
 In connection with this we also heard the glorious news of 
 the surrender of General Lee's whole army and other glorious 
 tidings, which, upon the whole, may be considered good news, 
 and that the war is about terminated, and that the death of the 
 President, although very sad at this time, will not delay the 
 progress of our victorious arms, but will rather fire the Northern 
 hearts. All the papers that we received to-day, EngUsh, French 
 and Portuguese, strongly favor our government and acknowledge 
 that peace will soon follow. But it is also rumored that the United 
 States have made a very large demand on England for her share 
 in the Confederate commerce destroyers, and that we have re- 
 called Mr. Adams from the Court of St. James; and in that case 
 war must follow. As far as the navy is concerned, I think that 
 we all, officers and men, will rejoice when official information is 
 received of that fact, for I believe that we can punish England in 
 
78 A ROMANTIC CRUISE 
 
 the manner she richly deserves for the part she took in the Civil 
 War. 
 
 On account of the arrival of these mail steamers the quiet 
 harbor of Porto Grande was very lively, and by looking at the 
 shipping a stranger would imagine that the town would be one 
 of some consequence instead of a place like it is. The P/liise 
 anchored within half a ship's length of us and had a great number 
 of lady passengers on board, but being unable to talk French we 
 could not call upon them, which we regretted exceedingly for 
 several reasons. 
 
 May 7th (Sunday). — At 10 a. m. called all hands to quarters 
 and carefully inspected the crew and the ship fore and aft, and 
 then read divine service to the officers and men assembled on the 
 quarter-deck. After this, the captain read to the crew the tele- 
 graphic message in regard to the death of President Lincoln and 
 the surrender of the Confederate army under General Lee. We 
 hoisted the colors at half-mast and fired half-hour guns all day 
 as a slight token of our regard for our worthy President. In 
 reading over the papers in regard to the excitement in the United 
 States we all wished, time and time again, that we were at home 
 to partake of the joys, etc., instead of being bound to the distant 
 East, where we will be, in a measure, unable to receive all the news 
 of the day. 
 
 Blowing very hard all day, the Wachusett dragging both anchors 
 with ninety fathoms of chain out, no sea on and close in to the 
 land — weather shore one-eighth of a mile distant. Of course we 
 were not able to lower any of the boats, so none of the officers left 
 the ship all day. 
 
 May 8th. — This morning we again exercised the gun crews at 
 firing at Bird Rock. Although this is only the second time our 
 guns have been fired in this cruise we were all most agreeably 
 surprised at the firing, for of all the shells fired from the rifles 
 only one missed the target; and that was not the fault in the point- 
 ing, for the shell, instead of going direct, "tumbled" and fell 
 short. All of the passengers in the mail steamers were up with 
 their glasses watching the effect of each shot, and, as each one 
 struck where we desired, I have no doubt that all outsiders could 
 not help admiring it, for it was truly one of the finest target prac- 
 tices from a ship in motion that I have ever seen, and, in fact, 
 it could not be excelled by the best-drilled crew in the service. 
 
OFF PORT PRAYA . 79 
 
 In the afternoon I allowed some of the men to go out fishing 
 in the cutter. I went on shore for a short time, just to see 
 some of the passengers (from the mail steamers) who happened to 
 be on shore. At sunset the French mail steamer Estra Madura 
 left the harbor, bound for Bordeaux. She carried our mails for 
 the glorious United States. How I sincerely wish that I was also 
 bound to that glorious land, instead of to the distant East. 
 
 May 9th. — The paymaster went on shore to pay the ship's bills 
 so we could leave port, and at 1 p. m. I reported to our commander 
 "That the ship was ready for sea." As we are short of provisions 
 the captain intends to run down to Port Praya, and, as we have 
 only one hundred and seventy-five mUes to run, we did not get 
 under way until dark. At 8 p. m. called " all hands, up anchor," 
 and stood out of the harbor to the south under a low head of 
 steam. We ran down the coast of St. Vincent, and then headed 
 out to sea to the southeast for the island of St. Jago, which we 
 expect to make a little after daylight. 
 
 To-night is beautiful, the sea very smooth, trade winds blowing 
 quite fresh, and it is quite warm. The moon is full and shining 
 in all its glory, with the great Southern Cross very bright in the 
 southern horizon. All the ofiicers are in excellent spirits and over- 
 joyed in getting clear of the miserable Portuguese port of Porto 
 Grande. 
 
 May 10th. — Under light steam and fore-and-aft sail all night, 
 standing to the southeast. At daylight the northern part of the 
 island of St. Jago was in sight under our lee, distant about thirty- 
 five miles. We are steaming down the coast of the island within 
 three miles of land. At 4 p. m. we came to anchor in the harbor 
 of Port Praya and were visited by the American Consul, Mr. 
 Moose. The harbor is a roadstead open to the south, but the re- 
 mainder is surrounded by high cliffs and the town is buUt on a 
 plateau several hundred feet above the sea. As we anchored we 
 saw an American brig getting under way, and sending a boat 
 alongside learned that she was bound for Boston direct. We at 
 once put mail aboard of her. 
 
 Sent the paymaster ashore to buy provisions for our cruise. 
 
 May 11th. — Some of the officers visited shore to-day. Those 
 remaining aboard endeavored to catch a shark that persisted in 
 remaining near the ship. No luck. 
 
 May 12th. — At 9.30 a.m. called all hands to general quarters 
 
80 A ROMANTIC CRUISE 
 
 and exercised at the great guns. Fired two rounds from each gun 
 at a target in the cliffs, distant about eight hundred yards. Did 
 very good firing, but some shots from the 32-pounders went over 
 the target and back in the country beyond, where they might have 
 hurt some one. 
 
 After quarters I went on shore to see the town, but it being so 
 very hot and dusty, I went only up one block to a store, remained 
 there an hour and returned to the 'Ship disgusted — for, while T 
 was away, four very pretty Portuguese ladies had just visited the 
 ship with their friends and a couple of our officers. In the 
 evening I go ashore with our captain to dine with the Governor- 
 General. 
 
 (^Philip's Journal continued in Chapter VIII.) 
 

 CO 
 
 ikV 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 EEMINISCENCES OF REAR-ADMIRAL PHILIP 
 
 Rear-Admiral Francis John Higginson, U. S. N. 
 
 WHEN a life-long friend suddenly departs and, 
 crossing the great divide, leaves you with 
 only a sacred memory enshrined in your 
 heart, you reahze, perhaps for the first time, how much 
 beyond all wealth and honor is the attachment we form 
 in this life to noble souls. Friendships are beacon Ughts 
 illuminating our pathway through life and the longer they 
 bum, the brighter they become. Happy the man who can 
 pursue his journey to the end without his pathway being 
 darkened by the extinguishment of one of these hghts. 
 
 These thoughts crowd upon me when I think of the 
 death of the late Rear-Admiral John W. Philip. My 
 first ecoUection of the late Rear-Admiral Philip is 
 when 'e were boys together at the Naval Academy from 
 1857 t ) 1861. He was three years older than myseK 
 and hit intimates at the school were among an older set 
 of boys, but I used to see a great deal of him, and formed 
 at that time a friendship which lasted through life. 
 
 As a boy, PhiHp was overflowing with animal life and 
 spirits and dearly loved a practical joke, a passion of 
 which I, with others, was often the victim. His humor, 
 however, was so spontaneous and free hearted that it 
 was impossible, even for the victim, not to join in the 
 laughter. There was nothing malicious or mean about 
 this fun, and if, unintentionally, he gave offense, he was 
 
82 EEMINISCENCES OF REAR-ADMIRAL PHILIP 
 
 always ready to make amends for it in the most honest 
 and manly way. 
 
 PhiUp was very good in mathematics, and in after life 
 became an excellent navigator. He did not stand so 
 high in languages, and his struggles with French, as well 
 as my own, used to afford us no end of amusement. He 
 did well in all practical exercises, and there was at all 
 times with PhiUp a reservoir of force, of which he seemed 
 himself to be unconscious, but which throughout life 
 enabled him to solve, on the spur of the moment, many 
 professional problems to which he had not previously 
 given much thought or study. 
 
 While he was not himseK a technical ofl&cer, he was 
 quick to seize upon that knowledge in others and alljdng 
 with it his own force and push, before which aU ob- 
 stacles seemed to vanish, carried the work in hand to a 
 successful completion. And his acknowledgments for 
 such assistance were always most fuU and complimentary; 
 no officer who ever worked with Philip for the accom- 
 plishment of an improvement or a reform failed to re- 
 ceive proper credit for his work. 
 
 The most striking example of this was the way in 
 which he put the Texas into a fighting condition just 
 before the Spanish War. When he took command of her, 
 he found that the mechanism of her turret guns was so 
 defective that the guns could not be fired except at long 
 intervals. To remedy this he bent all his energies, 
 knowing that, if called upon to encounter a vessel of the 
 enemy this extreme slowness of fire might be the cause 
 of his defeat. He found most efficient coadjutors 
 in Lt. Haeseler and Lt. Bristol, who with remarkable 
 ingenuity and mechanical skill, devised a system of 
 mechanism by which the guns could be fired with great 
 comparative rapidity. 
 
AN IDEAL SHIP-KEEPER 83 
 
 Philip, taking Lt. Haeseler with him, visited the Navy 
 Department, and overcoming a certain amount of red 
 tape by his arguments, succeeded in having the work 
 done as he desired, and under the supervision of Lt. 
 Haeseler, so that in her final action she was quite as 
 efficient in gun fire as any vessel in Sampson's fleet. 
 
 I did not meet Philip during the Civil War, that is in 
 action, although in the same squadron with him off 
 Charleston. His most serious engagement was, I be- 
 lieve, in the Pawnee, under Captain Balch, where Philip 
 was wounded, and where he received great praise from 
 his commanding officer. My most intimate association 
 with Philip as messmate and shipmate began when he 
 was transferred to the Hartford as executive, from the 
 Wachusett in 1867. This was on the China station and 
 we returned to New York in the summer of 1868. After- 
 ward, in the Mediterranean, I joined the Richmond as 
 navigator, of which vessel Philip was executive officer. 
 
 The Richmond was famous in the squadron for her 
 exercises with sails and spars. This was all done, during 
 the hot weather, before breakfast, Philip taking charge 
 of the deck at seven o'clock and keeping it until eight, 
 when, after spreading awnings, coiling up the gear and 
 sweeping decks, the crew would be "piped to breakfast." 
 We had a splendid crew and they threw themselves with 
 enthusiasm into this early morning work, not only on 
 account of their ambition to excel every other vessel 
 of the squadron, which they did, but because it gave 
 them a rest during the remainder of the day and en- 
 abled them to keep clean during the day the white 
 clothes, which they had put on at breakfast time. 
 
 His reputation as an executive was excelled by none 
 and equaled by few. He seemed to have, also, a re- 
 markable success in attaining the favor and respect of 
 
84 REMINISCENCES OF REAR-ADMIRAL PHILIP 
 
 his commanding officers, who, although varying in dis- 
 position and temperament, were contented to allow 
 Philip to maintain the routine and discipline of the ship 
 in his own way, and when he became captain he treated 
 his own executives in like manner. 
 
 He had a great scorn of conventionalities, and his 
 innate shyness made him avoid society, balls and parties. 
 Whenever we were going to give an entertainment on 
 board, Philip, after rendering aU the assistance in his 
 power to make it a success, would generally, when the 
 time came for the guests to arrive, go ashore. Nor did 
 he frequent clubs, but would preferably when abroad go 
 to some quiet American home, where an American tea 
 table and American instead of EngUsh customs were 
 kept up. 
 
 Although most of my intimacy with Rear-Admiral 
 Philip was in his young days, I can truly say that I never 
 heard him swear or saw him drink. He never touched 
 liquor after leaving the Naval Academy in 1861. He 
 had once, while a cadet, felt the evil effects of liquor and, 
 without any persuasion, but of his own free will, he said 
 to himself, "I will never touch another drop of that 
 stuff as long as I live," and he never did. 
 
 He had the most chivahous regard for good women, 
 and though very shy in their presence, no man would 
 sacrifice himseK more to do them service. Whatever 
 he did was done with all the intensity of his strong na- 
 ture, and during the Spanish War, I could not help com- 
 paring him to one of Cromwell's Puritans, who could 
 pray and fight with equal vigor. 
 
 He was a good ship keeper and every part of his ship 
 was scrupulously clean. Before his promotion to com- 
 mand rank, Philip never went to sea in any other ca- 
 pacity than that of executive officer, except once in the 
 
A DARING FEAT OF SEAMANSHIP 85 
 
 Richmond, in which vessel he was for a short time navi- 
 gator. I think he told me he never stood a regular deck 
 watch in his life. This, of course, was owing to the fact 
 that he left the Naval Academy just at the commence- 
 ment of the Gvil War, when there was a life size premium 
 upon regular graduates. His first detail after leaving 
 the Naval Academy was to the sloop of war Marion as 
 executive officer. She was a sailing vessel and Philip 
 was twenty-one years of age. 
 
 It is related that, while cruising off Havana in this 
 vessel, the captain thought he would hke to go ashore 
 and call upon our consul general. As the breeze was 
 blowing directly out of the harbor the Marion stood 
 in close to the entrance, when the captain took his gig 
 and puUed ashore, leaving Philip to look after the vessel 
 untU his return, without giving him any particular 
 directions as to his movements. Philip, thinking he 
 woiild like to have a look at Havana himseK, began 
 beating into the harbor, which, although the entrance 
 is very narrow he was enabled to do, owing to the 
 Marion being such a quick working vessel. 
 
 Just as he got to the narrow part of the entrance where, 
 on making short tacks he had to approach very close to 
 the shore, a familiar voice came over the water, saying, 
 "Young man, what are you doing with my ship?" It 
 was not, however, a moment to enter into explanations 
 and Philip continued to work into the harbor and an- 
 chored, and made his peace with the captain afterward. 
 Probably the latter, who was one of the crack sailors of 
 the old navy, was not so much displeased to see the 
 "youngster" just out of the Naval Academy perform 
 such a difficult piece of seamanship. This performance 
 was typical of Philip in dealing with new situations. It 
 was always "I'audace et toujours de I'audMce." 
 
86 REMINISCENCES OP REAR-ADMIRAL PHlLIP 
 
 Philip was in no sense a war "jingo," but if it came 
 in the line of his duty he did his best, both for his coun- 
 try and his God. Intimate as I was with Philip, it was 
 some time before I fully appreciated the strength and 
 depth of the new religious hfe which had been engrafted 
 upon his rugged nature. He never paraded it, nor 
 obtruded it upon his friends and I of course did not 
 penetrate the sacredness of his reserve. 
 
 I was inexpressibly pleased to have him near me on 
 the blockade off Santiago. It seemed such a fitting 
 "round up" to our life-long friendship that we should be 
 alongside of each other in the final act of the drama. 
 His station was next to mine on the blockade and we 
 would often visit each other and exchange "wig wag" 
 signals. He used to be quite envious of what he called 
 my "roof garden," which was a little cabin built on the 
 bridge deck of the Massachusetts, where I slept, and out- 
 side of which, under an awning, I often had my meals 
 served. Here he would sometimes join me, and with 
 a fresh trade wind blowing, and looking over the water 
 at the surrounding battleships, the Moro, and the beau- 
 tiful background of mountains back of Santiago, we 
 obtained a pleasant respite from the terrible heat of our 
 cabins. He had no such arrangement on the Texas and 
 used to envy me my good fortune. 
 
 On one occasion while on the blockade, when the crew 
 of the Massachusetts were loading the secondary battery, 
 one of the men accidentally fired off one of the small guns 
 which, at the time, was pointed directly toward the 
 Texas. I was, naturally, very anxious about the result, 
 but presently the "wig wag" flag on board the Texas 
 sent to me this message from Philip: "Good line shot, 
 but a little high," the shot having gone directly over the 
 Texas. 
 
liitfrestfd .sperfafot'S ahoard thf T'e.ras. 
 fBy courtesy of the Century Company.) 
 
"the science op living among men" 87 
 
 On another occasion, when the fleet under Admiral 
 Sicard was at anchor at Dry Tortugas, we were ordered 
 to proceed to sea by the northern channel. On the way 
 out the Texas, which preceded the Massachusetts, touched 
 bottom upon an uncharted coral reef in the middle of 
 the channel, but without serious injury. After we were 
 outside, Phihp signaled to me "Texas luck; struck bot- 
 tom in eight fathoms [forty-eight feet]." 
 
 While a strict disciplinarian, in those days Philip was 
 always just and consequently popular with the crew, 
 although without any unofficer-hke efforts to obtain their 
 favor. But I think where he showed the greatest tact 
 and force of character was In his management of the 
 wardroom, a problem much more difficult than with the 
 crew. This quality has been styled the science of hving 
 among men. There is no other thing that is so taxing, 
 requires so much education, so much wisdom and prac- 
 tice, as the art of hving among our fellow men justly and 
 charitably and harmoniously. 
 
 In importance this art exceeds all other skill and 
 knowledge; and Philip possessed it to a high degree. 
 What with his tact, good nature, firmness and ability, 
 it was impossible to have a discordant mess where Philip 
 was executive officer. 
 
 I remember one Saturday a council of war was being 
 held aboard the New York when the subject of a proposed 
 attack upon the batteries was being considered. Samp- 
 son and his staff officers were telling the captains what 
 was expected of them and fumisMng them with the 
 general order which had been drawn up for the occasion. 
 Phihp drew Sampson aside in the cabin and said to him 
 with concentrated earnestness, "Sampson, don't you 
 do it." - 
 
 "Do what?" said Sampson. 
 
88 REMINISCENCES OF REAR-ADMIEAL PHILIP 
 
 " Don't you fight on Sunday." 
 
 "Wliy?" 
 
 "Because," said Philip, "if you search all history, you 
 wiU find that whoever fired the first shot on Sunday was 
 defeated." 
 
 This proposition was immediately assailed by the 
 Philistine captains, but PhiUp stood his ground with 
 simple and sincere earnestness, strong in his faith; and 
 Sampson, who was himself a rehgious man, said in his 
 simple way, "Well, gentlemen, there seems to be some 
 objection to fighting this action on Sunday, and I must 
 confess that I was brought up that way myself, so we 
 will postpone the attack until Monday." 
 
 I have never been able to verify Phihp's statement 
 about battles fought on Sunday, but that he earnestly 
 and rehgiously believed in the truth of it was apparent 
 to the whole council. 
 
 At the finish, on the glorious third of July, 1898, kind 
 Fortune took Philip by the hand and led him up the 
 heights of national glory, while she led the Massachusetts, 
 after thirty-seven days of hard blockading duty, in- 
 gloriously away to Guantanamo for coal. Upon no 
 braver heart nor more tender soul could such good for- 
 tune have fallen and, while bemoaning my own sad fate, 
 I rejoiced most heartily in that of my fife-long friend, 
 and I rejoice now that before he departed this life he 
 rose to the height of a nation's esteem. 
 
 It may be said of him that he achieved distinction 
 and overcame the obstacles in his path by the force 
 of his wiU and the strength of his character. And 
 in this respect his example may well be followed by 
 the young men of our land. His moral victory over 
 himseK was far greater than the one at Santiago over the 
 Spaniards. No one, perhaps, except his wife, knows 
 
HIS EMBARRASSMENT IN PUBLIC SPEAKING 89 
 
 better than myself the struggle with his shy nature which 
 Philip must have had to make the pubhc declaration 
 of his faith which he did upon the quarter deck of his 
 ship and yet, if he had made a vow beforehand, to do so, 
 no embarrassment would have stopped him. After the 
 war, when he became commandant of the New York 
 Navy Yard, PhUip entered with enthusiasm into the 
 project of a Sailors' Rest, a subject which had occupied 
 my own attention' while Captain of the Navy Yard before 
 the Spanish War. 
 
 Here again we found ourselves working in sympathy 
 along the same lines, and for one of the best enterprises 
 which has been brought forward in the navy in my day, 
 and one which will, I sincerely trust, have a beneficial and 
 lasting effect upon the service. Working in harmony 
 with the International Committee of the Y. M. C. A, 
 Philip addressed parlor and public meetings upon this 
 subject. This was, of course, perfect torture to him, as 
 he would rather face a thousand batteries than the small- 
 est audience. 
 
 His embarrassment in speaking was so evident and 
 so pathetic that the warm sympathy of his audience 
 always went out to him, and he found his way into their 
 hearts by his honest, sailor-like bearing, no matter what 
 he said. It is, I am told, largely due to his influence that 
 a good and beneficent lady of New York City, whose 
 name is enthroned in the hearts of our sailors, has en- 
 dowed so Uberally the Sailors' Rest now being erected in 
 Brooklyn. May she hve long to enjoy the contempla- 
 tion of her good work and may the sailors of our navy 
 never cease to render her homage. 
 
 When as one of the paU bearers I followed the hearse 
 bearing the body of my departed friend, from the chapel 
 at Annapolis to the burying ground upon the hill over- 
 
90 REMINISCENCES OP REAR-ADMIRAL PHILIP 
 
 looking the Severn (through the same grounds and amid 
 the same scenes in which we had passed so many boy- 
 hood days together) I thought of how through all the 
 long subsequent years, in sunshine and in storm, in peace 
 and in war, he had toiled up the hill of life. Joyously at 
 first in the exuberance of youth and the easy ascent, 
 stumbling a little, but never failing. Drinking a Uttle, 
 but not too deeply, from the fountains of pleasure, which 
 line the base of the hill. Struggling on at the last more 
 slowly and laboriously, but ever bravely, bending under 
 the cares and burdens, official and private, which had 
 come upon him, but with a firm tread and a bright eye. 
 Finally reaching the summit, a pilgrim footsore and 
 weary, he sinks to rest and his soul, wafted to Heaven, 
 is welcomed above by the sweet music of the Heavenly 
 choir singing "Well done, thou good and faithful ser- 
 vant ; enter thou into the joy of thy Lord." 
 
 As the yoimg gentlemen of the Naval Academy pause at 
 the grave of Rear-Admiral Philip, and read upon his 
 tombstone those noble words: "Don't cheer, men; those 
 poor devils are dying," let them be inspired and ele- 
 vated by the grandetu' of the sentiment, and let them 
 resolve that they also, living or dying, wiU leave in the 
 example of their lives an immutable legacy to their 
 country and to the Navy. 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 AT PORT PRAYA 
 
 ONE of the prominent traits in " Jack " Philip's char- 
 acter was that he usually expressed himself 
 bluntly — very much to the point — ^whether in 
 complimentary or condemnatory tones. His comments on 
 the inhabitants of the various ports at which the Wachusett 
 touched are very much hke the man himself, " straight 
 from the shoulder " ; but in justice to the subject of this 
 memorial, it should be remembered that, in all probabihty, 
 Philip never expected that what he was writing in his 
 private diary would ever be placed before the pubUc in cold 
 type. As we read over the time-discolored pages of his 
 journal, we feel that we are in the sacred presence of 
 the ianer man himself and that we should regard his 
 criticisms as what he "thought to himseK" rather than 
 a pubhc declaration before his fellow-men. 
 
 Philip's journal of a cruise 
 {Continued from page 80.) 
 
 Port Praya, May 13th, 1865. — At the Consul's last night we 
 met the Governor-General of the Cape de Verdes, his private 
 secretary and two of his aides, with a few other gentlemen. 
 Although none of their party could speak English and none of us 
 could speak Portuguese, no one language being common to us both, 
 yet we all seemed to enjoy ourselves throughout the evening. 
 
 Visited the shore to-day for a horseback ride and to see the 
 fertile portion of the island — if that could be found ! The town of 
 Port Praya is the chief port in the group and formerly was the 
 rendezvous of our African squadron. It resembles all Portuguese 
 
92 AT PORT PRAYA 
 
 towns, the houses being all of the one-story-with-tile-roof style 
 and all painted with that miserable, dirty yellow which is so com- 
 mon on the African coast. The town formerly was quite a pleasant 
 place to visit, it being the seat of govfjement for the islands and 
 there was some good society here. Bft^ now there are no places 
 of interest, either in the city or on the island. 
 
 For the past three years there has been no rain, consequently 
 there is a great amount of starvation and suffering. One cannot 
 walk through the streets without being continually reminded of 
 the sad condition in which the poorer class are. They are 
 dying from starvation day by day. Last year about twenty 
 thousand people starved to death and the Governor told us that 
 at least twenty-five thousand would starve this year. I visited 
 a pen or stockade, just outside the city, where there were about 
 twenty-three hundred men, women and children in the last stages 
 of starvation. They are kept up by the government, which gives 
 them about a quart of common yellow corn, boiled, per day. 
 They are dying continually and those who are yet alive present 
 the most horrible pictures you can imagine. Pen cannot describe 
 it. They reminded me (in bodily condition only) most of our 
 noble soldiers as they appeared when returned from Andersonville 
 or other Confederate prisons. 
 
 I was walking with the Consul along the street and, on seeing 
 a woman fall (just alive) in the middle of the street, asked the 
 cause of it. He replied "starvation" and said that to see people 
 fall from that cause was a common sight to him lately. If it 
 should rain now it would do but little good for some time to come, 
 for as the Governor said, the people are "too feeble to work the 
 soil." Yet there seems to be salt provisions enough stored away. 
 Any one can get them by paying cash. On the whole Port Praya 
 is a place that is not worth visiting. 
 
 At 3 p. M. the English sloop of war Zebra came in and anchored. 
 When she first approached the harbor we suspected her to be the 
 Shenandoah or Alabama (for there was a strong resemblance) 
 and being in hopes that she would turn out a Confederate cruiser 
 we got up steam, got ready for slipping the chain cable and made 
 preparations for immediate action. As she came into the harbor 
 she persisted in keeping her colors in such a line with her masts 
 that we could not make them out until she came to anchor, when 
 we sent a boat aboard and found that she was a genuine John Bull. 
 
A VISIT TO ST. George's plantation 93 
 
 May 14th (Sunday). — After divine service this morning the 
 captain and second lieutenant of the Zebra came aboard the Wa- 
 chuaett and inspected her thoroughly. The English governor of 
 Sierra Leone is a passenger in the Zebra, homeward bound. To- 
 day, as the two governors, English and Portuguese, paid their 
 official visits to each other there were four national salutes fired. 
 
 In the evening I went with our captain to make an official call 
 aboard the Englishman. On getting aboard and meeting several 
 other officers from another warship, including the governor and 
 captain of the port, I did not return to the Wachusett until late at 
 night — ^having spent a "jolly time" on board. 
 
 May 15th. — At daylight this morning the Zebra got under way 
 and went to sea bound for Porto Grande, where the English gov- 
 ernor takes a steamer for home. As it was blowing quite fresh 
 to-day and a heavy swell setting in from southward we could not 
 bring off any provisions, consequently we are detained another 
 twenty-four hours. 
 
 May 16th. — Blowing quite fresh all day, so we could not send a 
 boat ashore. As the wind increased the ship began to drag her 
 anchor, so we let go another, which brought her up when the rocks 
 and breakers were close astern. 
 
 May 17th. — During the forenoon I exercised the crew in furling 
 sail, then in crossing and in sending down the topgallant yards, 
 and continued the exercise until I got a little tired myself and the 
 men were quite proficient in their duties. 
 
 I went on shore with Pegram'and Latch, and after attending to 
 a little business, we hired three horses and rode out to the planta- 
 tion of St. George, distant about five miles. During the rainy 
 season it is a most beautiful place; and even now it is beautiful, 
 the grounds being laid out splendidly. They contain all sorts of 
 trees and shrubs. All the tropical fruits can be seen and gathered 
 there, from the orange, pineapple, cocoanut, down to small spice. 
 
 While wandering around the grounds we fell in with the pro- 
 prietor, Sefior Henriques, who is the acting English, French, Bel- 
 gian and Russian consul. He invited us up to his house and re- 
 freshed us, after our hot and tedious ride, with an excellent lunch. 
 While enjoying our cigars we were entertained by the most charm- 
 ing music. On the whole, it was the most pleasant day I have had 
 for some time. We returned to the ship at sunset very tired, but 
 pleased with our day's work. 
 
94 AT PORT PRAYA 
 
 May 18th. — During the forenoon I exercised the crew in furling 
 sail and crossing and sending down the topgallant yards. Al- 
 though this is only the second time the men have been exercised 
 I can see an improvement and am in great hopes of their pro- 
 ficiency before the end of the cruise. For the remainder of the 
 day I was receiving provisions in the paymaster's department, but 
 very, very slowly. It is enough to sicken one with the continual 
 delays at the beginning of so long a cruise I 
 
 May 19th. — Made preparations for getting to sea, secured every 
 thing on deck for a long passage and at 11.30 a. m. called "all 
 hands up anchor." But on heaving in we found that we had lost 
 our [port] anchor, it having become unshackled in some way. 
 Consequently we were delayed in getting under way and were 
 obliged to drag for it. Called away and manned both cutters and 
 sent thenJ ahead to drag. About sunset they got fast, but upon 
 heaving in it proved to be the other [starboard] anchor; and 
 having raised it in this style we were obliged to get up steam and 
 move ahead, as we were close to heavy breakers. After mancever- 
 ing around we finally anchored, about 9 p. m., for the night. Thus 
 we are again delayed. 
 
 Busy all night in repacking salt pork on deck. 
 
 May 20th. — Began at daylight and continued all day dragging 
 for our lost " bower " [anchor] but with no other success than finding 
 the position of it on the bottom. I went out once in the dingey 
 with an " arrangement " to see the bottom but I could not find it, 
 the water being too rough; yet I could see the bottom distinctly 
 in eight fathoms [forty-eight feet]. None of the boats were al- 
 lowed to visit the shore to-day, as we are under " sailing orders " 
 and will leave just as soon as the anchor is again at the bow. 
 
 May 21st (Sunday). — Began at daylight to drag for the anchor 
 and continued until sunset, when we got fast to it. But on getting 
 a strain on the hawser our hold slipped and we again lost it; so 
 one more day has been employed in fruitless search and I am afraid 
 that the anchor will have to be marked on the ledger as " expended" 
 and the Wachusett obliged to go to sea one anchor short. 
 
 At sunset I went on shore to engage some divers to go down in 
 the morning; and it remains to be seen with what success. While 
 on shore I called to bid farewell to some friends and while there 
 I saw an image of the patron saint (St. Anthony) in a dish of water 
 with his "feet up.". These people believe that our ship cannot 
 
DEAGGING FOR AN ANCHOR 95 
 
 sail until St. Anthony comes with his " head up " and then we can 
 sail under a blessing. 
 
 May 22d. — Dragging all day but with no success, the divers at 
 work also, but they could see nothing of the anchor on the b6ttom. 
 The remainder of the day passed tediously on board, all very anx- 
 ious to leave the port and get to sea again. 
 
 A couple of the officers were allowed to visit town to-day, they 
 having got engaged to some fair Portuguese during our short and 
 indefinite stay — much to the amusement of the mess and disgust 
 to themselves. What foolishness, eh! 
 
 May 23d. — The same old duties to-day, namely, dragging the 
 harbor in hopes of finding the lost anchor. Once we found it and 
 the divers, on going down, returned and reported that the anchor 
 was so far under the sand that it would be almost impossible to 
 get it again. We will still try again. 
 
 The "affair" [of the "couple of officers"] on shore is getting very 
 serious. 
 
 May 24th. — Dragging for the anchor, the same as before, until 
 noon, when meeting with no success, we discontinued for the day. 
 
 We introduced nine different kinds of the African monkey on 
 board for amusement and mischief. 
 
 May 25th. — At daylight this morning we got under way and 
 ran in near the position of our lost anchor, let go the other anchor 
 and dragged it about in hopes of catching on the missing one. 
 Struck it once, fortunately, and tore it out of its bed. After break- 
 fast sent the cutters out to drag for it but with no success — and 
 thus another day is lost!" 
 
 May 26th. — Got under way again at daylight and dragged for 
 the anchor with fifteen fathoms of chain all about the position of 
 the lost one. After breakfast sent the cutters out again and con- 
 tinued dragging, but without success. At 4 p. m. hoisted the boat 
 "recalls," gave up the search and marked the anchor down as 
 "expended" on the ledger and logbook. Transported the port 
 sheet anchor to the bow for a " bower " and made all preparations 
 for sea, securing everything snugly about the deck. 
 
 We have now spent one month in and around the Cape de Verdes 
 and have burnt up and used nearly as much coal and provisions as 
 we received upon our arrival — and we still have the long trip to 
 the Cape of Good Hope before us with a very scant supply of 
 everything. 
 
96 AT PORT PRAYA 
 
 May 27th. — At daylight made preparations for getting under 
 way, but as the paymaster had not yet settled up all the bills he 
 was obliged to go ashore and this delayed us a few hours more. At 
 9 A. M., having finished up everything in Porto Praya, we stood 
 out to sea^ much to the joy of all on board, for we all were sick and 
 disgusted with the town. After getting clear of the harbor we 
 put on all sail to studding sails and shaped the course for the Cape 
 of Good Hope. 
 
 {Philip's Journal continued in Chapter X.) 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 
 REFOEMING A HOODOO SHIP 
 
 Lieutenant Francis J. Haeseler, U. S.N. 
 
 TOWARD the close of the summer of 1897 the 
 oflB.cers of the battleship Texas were beginning 
 to wonder who would reheve Captain WiUiam 
 Clinton Wise, then commanding that ship, and of course 
 were very hopeful that it would be some one who would 
 command their respect and admiration and keep the ship 
 as happy as it then was. It was with the greatest 
 rehef and pleasure we heard our new captain was to be 
 John Woodward Philip — "Jack" PhiUp is the name he 
 was always known by in the service — and while we re- 
 gretted losing Captain Wise, still we all felt that he could 
 not be better succeeded than by the man who was 
 coming. 
 
 During the following winter, that of 1897-98, the 
 North Atlantic Squadron under Rear-Admiral Sicard 
 went south for winter practice, and while we were in 
 Tortugas Captaia Philip, whose term of sea service had 
 nearly expired, expected his detachment at any time, 
 and his rehef had been practically settled upon. He 
 frequently spoke to us of the officer who was coming to 
 reheve him and what he would do toward continuing 
 the work on the Texas, tending to increase her efficiency 
 as a fighting machine. 
 
 Then the news of the sinking of the Maine came and 
 we heard nothing further on the subject of a change in 
 
98 KEFORMING A HOODOO SHIP 
 
 command. On the contrary, the captain's entire energies 
 seemed to be devoted to doing what he could to have the 
 ship ordered at once to a navy yard where certain work, 
 which he beUeved to be desirable and necessary and 
 which had been approved by the Bureau of Ordnance, 
 could be started. He saw clearly that war was inevit- 
 able and to command a ship which was as handicapped 
 as the Texas was preyed upon his mind, and he made 
 every effort to get where the repairs could be effected. 
 He finally succeeded in getting orders to proceed north 
 and with Lieutenant Commander Delehanty, who had 
 but recently been relieved from the position of executive 
 officer of the Texas, easily succeeded in getting Mr. 
 Roosevelt, then the Assistant Secretary of the Na\y, 
 interested in the proposed changes. 
 
 Mr. Roosevelt finally persuaded the Secretary of the 
 Navy to authorize the work to be done and to that end 
 the ship was ordered to the New York Navy Yard, where 
 the repairs were successfully made. The ship then went 
 to Hampton Roads and joined the Flying Squadron. 
 While we were lying there Captain Phihp's efforts to 
 get the ship in the highest possible state of efficiency 
 continued and in every way we were preparing for every 
 emergency liable in battle. 
 
 On the way down to Key West and until we actually 
 took the ship into battle the captain was most energetic 
 and painstaking in carrying on necessary drills tending 
 to fit us for action, and he showed his great tact and 
 knowledge of human nature by not having useless, tire- 
 some drills and inspections which would only kill the 
 men's interest. 
 
 When we finally arrived on the blockade off Santiago, 
 his arrangement of the ship's force at night was excellent. 
 He provided for their comfort and yet had probably as 
 
A HAPPT ship's company 99 
 
 many, if not more lookouts (lookouts that were awake 
 and alive to the seriousness of the situation), as on any 
 ship of the squadron. He himself at night slept on a 
 narrow transom in the chart house, where he was always 
 ready for instant caU, and at aU hovirs of the night he 
 would be hable to waken and come out and chat with 
 the officer of the deck, to the latter's great enjojrment, 
 for we all were pleased to have him around, as he never 
 interfered or made us feel uncomfortable in any way. 
 
 Shortly after joining the ship he informed us that 
 there was no bulkhead between the wardroom and cabin 
 and that we should never think of sending our names in 
 by the orderly, but we were to come in unannounced. 
 At the same time he would stroll into our quarters at any 
 time, and it was an exceptional thing for a day to go by 
 without the captain coming into the wardroom for a 
 smoke and chat. He took the keenest interest in our 
 mess ; and made each one of us feel that he was a friend 
 and we had no hesitancy about going to him at any time. 
 At the same time no one ever heard of any one being un- 
 duly familiar or taking any advantage of his free and 
 easy manner with us. 
 
 The ship's crew and ofl&cers were very happy and con- 
 tented during the entire blockade, and it was all due to 
 the way the "old man" treated us. Our jfirst engage- 
 ment was with the Spanish fort. La Socapa, and after 
 the engagement was over Admiral Sampson made 
 general signal "The firing at the western batteries (La 
 Socapa) was very good, especially that of the Texas." 
 Shortly after this the ship went to Guantanamo for coal 
 and was there during the time the marines had their f our 
 days' fight on shore. 
 
 About a week later the Texas was sent up to the same 
 harbor, Guantanamo, to destroy the forts which defended 
 
100 REFORMING A HOODOO SHIP 
 
 the town. Captain Philip took the ship up the channel, 
 and though the presence of torpedoes was feared, the 
 ship went up until she was in the mud, and from that 
 position opened fire on the forts and, assisted by the 
 Marblehead under Commander McCalla and the Suawnee 
 under Lieutenant Commander Delehanty, proceeded to 
 carry out her orders to destroy the forts. 
 
 It was during the passage of this channel that we dis- 
 lodged a torpedo and, when we got it on board, found 
 the dent made by our propeller blade between two of 
 the contact arms for firing the torpedo. The torpedo 
 was brought to us by a launch from the Marblehead, 
 which had also dislodged at least one of them, and the 
 captain, seeing the dent remarked, "Cracky, but that 
 was a close call!" — and that was all. 
 
 In going up the channel and in coming down the ship 
 passed within fifty yards of a point covered with under- 
 growth and after we had passed, on the way out, fire 
 was opened from this point on the launch of the Marble- 
 head. Captain Philip directed the Suawnee to go to the 
 assistance of the launch, which she did, and after a vig- 
 orous shelling of the point by the Suawnee the firing was 
 silenced. The next day a landing was effected at this 
 point and a large number of dead Spanish soldiers was 
 found there. The remarkable thing about it was that, 
 when the Texas passed so very close (with her bridge full 
 of officers standing near the captain), the Spaniards did 
 not open fire. Had they done so, the chances are that 
 every officer on that bridge would have suffered. 
 
 After the forts were destroyed the Texas turned,, came 
 down the channel, proceeded out to sea and back to her 
 station off Santiago, being cheered by the crews of the 
 Marblehead and St. Paul as she passed out. One of the 
 officers of the latter ship said later: "It was one of the 
 
1 KILLED AND 8 WOUNDED IN THE TEXAS 101 
 
 incidents of the war. The Texas came in at full speed, 
 slowed down, signaled the Marblehead to follow, went up, 
 opened fire, destroyed the forts, came down again and 
 went out to sea, all in the most matter of fact way imag- 
 inable." 
 
 It was while passing out the harbor that a press boat 
 came alongside and, having just heard that it had been 
 reported at home that he had been killed. Captain Philip 
 hailed the boat and asked the reporters on board of it 
 if they had seen in the papers that he was reported dead. 
 The answer came back, "Yes." So the captain said, 
 " Well, you may contradict that, for here I am aUve, as 
 you see." To which the press boat replied, "Yes, and 
 very much alive at that." 
 
 The next engagement in which the Texas participated 
 was when we made a feint at landing west of La Socapa 
 while the army was being landed at Daiquiri. On this 
 occasion the ship engaged the western fort by itself and 
 was hit in the bow by a 6-uich shell, losing one man 
 killed and eight wounded. The fire from the Texas on 
 this occasion, as on others, was excellent and the fort was 
 completely silenced. Those stationed on the other ships 
 of the squadron say that it was a glorious spectacle to 
 see this one ship silence that fort ; and they cheered the 
 Texas again and again. 
 
 After completely silencing the fort the ship was sig- 
 naled to withdraw and coming within hail of the Brooklyn 
 Captain Philip reported that the Texas had been struck, 
 losing one man and having eight wounded. We had 
 run out of 6-inch common shell and had been using armor 
 piercing shell, which did not burst and were not as ef- 
 fective as the common shell would have been under the 
 circumstances. So when Commodore Schley hailed us 
 and asked if he could help us in any way Captain Philip 
 
102 REFORMING A HOODOO SHIP 
 
 replied: "The only help we want is plenty of 6-inch 
 common shell," which was heartily applauded on the 
 Brooklyn. 
 
 That afternoon, immediately after burying poor 
 Blakely [the man killed in the action], while the captain 
 was standing on the quarter deck talking to one of his 
 officers, the Massadmsetts accidentally fired a gun; the 
 shell passing within a few feet of the captain, directly 
 over his head. He said to the officer to whom he was 
 talking, "That was pretty close. I believe that came 
 from Frank's (Captain Higginson) ship." And then 
 calling to the officer of the deck he said, "Signal over 
 to the Massachusetts and say: 'Thanks, good line, but 
 a little over.' " which was accordingly done. Captain 
 Higginson immediately signaled his regrets, sajdng that 
 he thought we had been fired at enough in one day 
 without our friends joining in. 
 
 Several bombardments took place later on in which 
 the Texas joined, but there was nothing of any impor- 
 tance. On the morning of July 3d, when Cervera's fleet 
 came out of Santiago, Captain Philip was in his cabin 
 and the officer of the deck, Lieutenant Bristol, carried 
 out his orders and headed directly for the enemy, going 
 ahead at full speed. When the captain reached the 
 bridge he kept the ship heading for the Spaniards until 
 he saw them heading to the westward, when he turned 
 with the starboard helm and stood along, on a gradually 
 closing in course. The Iowa, Oregon and Teooas were all 
 in a bimch on about the same course. 
 
 There was so much smoke that it was difficult to make 
 out anything, but Captain Phihp saw the Brooklyn start 
 to make her now famous loop, and jumped to the en- 
 gine room indicators and rung fuU speed astern. This 
 certainly saved the ship, as the Brooklyn was on the star- 
 
Effect of modern nheU aboard the Texan. 
 (By courtesy of the Century Company.) 
 
A NARROW ESCAPE 103 
 
 board bow and in such a position that unless we had 
 turned away from the enemy with a starboard helm, 
 backing the port engine, we never could have cleared 
 her. It never entered Captain Philip's head for an 
 instant to turn away from the enemy. He had one 
 idea only and that was to carry out Admiral Sampson's 
 orders, "to close in with the enemy and destroy them 
 before they could get clear of the harbor entrance if 
 possible." This reversal of the engines caused the 
 Oregon and Iowa to pass us, but our superior speed en- 
 abled us to pass the Iowa, although we could not catch up 
 to the Oregon. 
 
 During the fight Captain Philip stood on the upper 
 bridge until the enemy seemed to be getting the range 
 and we had been struck several times, then his officers 
 insisted that he must go on the lower bridge, as most of 
 the shell were going over us. This he consented to do 
 and he had hardly left the upper bridge before a shell 
 went crashing through the chart house, in such a direc- 
 tion that the chances are he would have been in its path 
 had he remained where he was. 
 
 While he was on the lower bridge the forward 12-inch 
 g\m was fired repeatedly across the deck, the muzzle 
 being very close to where the captain was standing now 
 and then the discharge would knock him down or up 
 against the conning tower. This occurred three times; 
 one of the times he was completely dazed for some sec- 
 onds and had to be helped to his feet, but although he 
 had to shout his orders to the man at the wheel through 
 the sight holes in the conning tower he would not go 
 inside. 
 
 During the chase of the Cristobal Colon he stood on the 
 upper bridge and it was while passitig the burning Viz- 
 caya, then on the beach, that one of the midshipmen came 
 
104 REFORMING A HOODOO SHIP 
 
 running forward and called out that the latter vessel was 
 firing at us and that a shot had fallen within a few feet 
 of our stern. The captain immediately gave orders to 
 train the starboard 12-inch gun on that ship and as one 
 of the oflScers, standing by, informed him that her colors 
 were not fl.ying, the captain leveled his glass to ascertain 
 for himseH, with the thought in his mind that the vessel 
 in question was firiag at him. 
 
 Just then she blew up and our men let out a cheer. 
 The captain dropped his glass, held his hand out with a 
 quieting gesture and said, " Don't cheer men, those poor 
 fellows are dying." It was a sight that can never be 
 forgotten by those who were fortunate enough to see it, 
 and showed the nobility and gentleness of the character 
 of this remarkable man. 
 
 The rest of the chase is well known, but one thing is 
 not well known, namely, as soon as the Cristobal Colon 
 hauled down her colors Captain Philip immediately or- 
 dered the force draught stopped on the boilers. When 
 one of the officers remonstrated, saying that we should 
 get up to the Brooklyn and Oregon as quickly as possible, 
 the captain said that our firemen had had hard enough 
 work for four hours already, and there was no need of 
 injuring the boUers. The result was that our speed fell 
 from about sixteen knots to near ten and the length of 
 time it took us to reach the CristShal Colon at that speed 
 was taken as a measure of our distance from her when 
 she hauled down her colors — considering that we were 
 still making about fifteen or sixteen knots. 
 
 After the Cristobal Colon surrendered the captain grew 
 much quieter in his manner than usual, and while the 
 rest of us were congratulating each other and enjoying 
 our victory and recalling amusing incidents during the 
 fight, the captain was silent. Suddenly he told the ex- 
 
IN SILENT PRAYEE 105 
 
 ecutive to call aU hands aft and when we were there, each 
 and everyone of us expectmg words of praise and con- 
 gratulation for the way we had carried out his orders, 
 he called on those who felt so inclined to stand bare- 
 headed and offer up silent thanks to Him who had 
 brought us safely through the danger to which we had 
 been exposed. It was needless to say we did so, the 
 greatest scoffer being silenced, and after a few moments 
 when he put on his cap, ours went up with our hands in 
 three cheers for our captain, who had led us through the 
 fight and into the presence of our God. 
 
CHAPTER X; 
 
 A MOMENTOUS VOYAGE 
 
 WHETHER or not Philip had any faith in the dire 
 predictions of the natives of Port Praya, that 
 the voyage of the Wachusett would be attended 
 with ill-luck because she sailed while the image of St. 
 Anthony "came with his feet up," we have no means of 
 ascertaining. We do know, however, that besides the 
 loss of her anchor on the eve of her departure and the 
 many unexpected and exasperating delays that had pro- 
 tracted her stay in these waters to a month, she did 
 enter upon a voyage that was destined to be full of an- 
 noying and, in several instances, perilous incidents. 
 
 As has already been shown in the preceding pages 
 of Phihp's diary, the Wachusett was poorly fitted out at 
 Boston and some of her spars were dangerously unsound, 
 so that when she reached Martinique they had to be un- 
 shipped and replaced with reserve spars. The ship had 
 touched at the Cape de Verdes for the purpose of obtain- 
 ing enough provisions and coal to carry her in an un- 
 broken passage to the Cape of Good Hope, yet she had 
 been delayed so long that when she finally sailed from 
 Port Praya she was almost as badly off for pro\isions 
 and coal as when she arrived. The result was that in- 
 stead of making a clean stretch to the Cape, Commander 
 Townsend was compelled to put into a Brazilian port to 
 avoid open mutiny among his crew. 
 
 And it was here that a most serious and peculiar con- 
 
ST. ANTHONY WITH ''fEET UP." 107 
 
 dition confronted the Wachusett. It will be remembered 
 that it was the Wachusett that violated the neutrality of 
 the port of Bahia the year preceding by attacking and 
 capturing in that harbor the Confederate cruiser Florida, 
 with the result that the Brazilian Government issued an 
 edict prohibiting the Wachusett from ever again entering 
 a Brazilian port for any purpose whatever. 
 
 With a pei-versity of luck which really seems quite 
 in keeping with St. Anthony's "feet up," and with a 
 mutinous and starving crew and hardly enough coal 
 aboard for one day's steaming, the cruiser encountered 
 a series of terrific gales off this same coast of Brazil, so 
 that Commander Townsend was compelled, by sheer force 
 of circumstances, to seek port — ^with a result that is in- 
 terestingly described in the journal. 
 
 Philip's journal of a chuise 
 
 {Continued from Page 96) 
 
 May 28th (Sunday). — We have now been out of Port Praya 
 twelve hours and are shaping our course for the Gape of Good 
 Hope. The wind had died nearly away and what little remained 
 hauled almost ahead during the morning watch. Took in and 
 furled all sail and continued on our course under steam alone. 
 Excessively warm. The remainder of the day was spent by the 
 crew as they pleased in reading, smoking and sleeping and trying 
 to get out of the influence of the sun, but as it was nearly over- 
 head, it was almost impossible to find shade. 
 
 May 29th. — At 9 a. m. called all hands to general quarters, with 
 the intention of giving them a long exercise at their different 
 duties, but it being so unmercifully hot I soon "piped down" 
 and allowed the men to seek what shade and comfort they could 
 about the decks. The ship is steaming along under very reduced 
 amount of coal (seven tons) while her full allowance was thirty 
 tons for every twenty-four hours. To-day we are in the region of 
 the doldrums and hope to get to the southeast trade winds to- 
 morrow. 
 
108 A MOMENTOUS VOYAGE 
 
 May 30th. — A beautiful, calm day throughout. Sea very 
 smooth, steaming ahead slowly on account of coal, the furnaces 
 being cut down to seven tons. Carried out the routine, but it 
 was too hot to exercise or work much, consequently spread the 
 awnings and allowed the men to rest about the deck all day. 
 
 May 31st. — During the night we struck the southeast trades, 
 but they were very light. Continued steaming until noon, when 
 we set all plain sail, stopped the engines and disconnected the 
 propeller. The wind being very light and well ahead, we were 
 thrown off our course considerably. Carried out the routine to- 
 day as nearly as possible — it being too hot to do much. Frequent 
 rain squalls all night and day — one peculiarity of the region of 
 doldrum, plenty of rain with no wind. 
 
 June 1st. — Father Neptune hailed the ship during the first watch 
 and informed the ship's company that he intended to visit them 
 to-morrow evening. 
 
 June 2d. — Light, baffling winds from south all day, ship making 
 a very poor course in order to cross the line to any advantage. 
 At 9 A. M. called all hands to general quarters. All were at their 
 different duties and although it was very hot and oppressive, I 
 think it was the best exercise we have had since leaving Boston 
 and I can notice a vast improvement in the crew since that day. 
 A large French bark passed close under our stern this morning 
 bound northward. We are anxiously looking out for a Yankee 
 from home. 
 
 At 4 p. M. Old Neptune "hailed the ship" and informed "his 
 friends" that he was coming on board. Of course we suspended 
 order, etc., for a time in order to allow Jack to play, as is customary 
 in crossing the line. 
 
 At eight bells Old Neptune and his wife mounted the howitzer 
 carriage and, followed by the necessary attendants, proceeded with 
 the foolish nonsense of shaving and ducking aU those who had 
 never crossed the line. After going through with the crew in this 
 style they came aft for the officers' " fine ". for all those who had 
 not crossed, and I happened to be one of the number. After 
 paying Neptune his fine I sent them all below in the wardroom and 
 gave each a glass of wine in lieu of whiskey. The whole affair 
 passed off very pleasantly to 'all concerned, and although it was 
 very silly, yet it was very amusing to see these old saUors enter 
 into such a thing with so much spirit and good will. 
 
A MONKEY OVERBOAKD 109 
 
 June 3d. — Calm, with sea as smooth as possible all day, but 
 exceedingly warm during the afternoon. A large steamer came 
 up with us but not near enough to speak her. We exchanged 
 colors and found her to be the steamer Saladin. 
 
 June 4th (Sunday). — Read articles of war after divine service. 
 At 1 p. M. we crossed the equator and are now in the South Atlantic. 
 
 June 5th. — During the midwatch we were obliged to stop en- 
 gines for about three hours to repair a breakdown. Sea smooth, 
 with trade winds quite fresh. At 8 p. m. exchanged colors with a 
 Danish bark. 
 
 June 6th. — Very pleasant all day. Ship slipping along at about 
 six knots. Sea quite smooth. Two sails in sight ahead of us 
 standing to the south. Continued in sight until dark, when we 
 lost them. 
 
 June 7th. — At noon we hauled fires under the boilers to economize 
 coal and the ship is now in every respect a sailing vessel. We have 
 lost sight of the North Star and now have the great Southern 
 Cross for an irregular guide by night. 
 
 June 8th. — This morning one of the large monkeys fell over- 
 board. We hove-to, lowered a boat and picked up the "cuss" 
 more dead than alive; but he scarcely had been on board an hour 
 with the remaining monkeys before he was as mischievous as ever. 
 
 June 9th. — Very squally, with heavy rain all night. Last night 
 when the wind was light, a French bark ran past us, but when 
 the wind freshened we easily outsailed her, and at noon were 
 unable to see her from the topsail yard. On account of the squally 
 weather and heavy sea we were unable to carry out the usual 
 exercises. This afternoon a school of black fish were near 
 the ship. Some of the sailors succeeded in harpooning one of them, 
 but with the rate at which we were going the iron pushed out, 
 and of course we lost the fish. 
 
 June 10th. — Busy in setting up the main topmast rigging in 
 order to secure the mast, which was in danger of being rolled out. 
 
 June 11th (Sunday). — Exceedingly heavy squalls, with heavy 
 rain all day. Unable to do anything except to reduce sail as each 
 squall approached. At 11 a. m., as the ship was pitching rather 
 heavily, we wore ship and stood northeast until 3 p. m., when she 
 was again off to the south. We are close into the land, just north 
 of Bahia, lee shore about sixty miles and are obliged to make a 
 south by west course so as to clear the land, whereas the best 
 
110 A MOMENTOUS VOYAGE 
 
 that we can do is three points to leeward with a good deal of lee- 
 way. For the good of the Wachiisett the wind should haul a 
 couple of points, for we have a long passage to make, with no coal 
 in the bunkers for steaming and are obliged to go on half rations 
 to make the provisions hold out. We cannot go in any Brazilian 
 port, because they are all closed against the Wachnsett since that 
 Florida affair in Bahia. 
 
 June 12th. — At 11 a. m., the ship heading southwest, I called 
 all hands to tack ship and put her about to the eastward in order 
 to get farther from land and that we may have trades more to 
 the eastward and then make the stretch down the coast. To-day 
 we are to the south of Bahia on the hundredth day of the cruise 
 and half rations ! No exercises on account of the short rations. 
 Sprung the flying jibboom and was obliged to fish it. 
 
 June 13th. — At 9 a. m. saw a sail on the lee bow standing toward 
 us. We kept off a little in order to speak him. At 10 a. m. ex- 
 changed colors, hove-to with the main topsail to the mast, lowered 
 a cutter and sent an officer on board of him — he being hove-to 
 under our lee. We sent on board in order to get some provisions, 
 if possible, but he being the English bark Oberon, bound to Chili 
 and forty-nine days out from England, he was short himself, and 
 consequently, our excursion was fruitless and we were obliged to 
 hoist the boat in again, fill away and stand on, rather low-spirited. 
 Two or three sails in sight to-day and would have asked them for 
 provisions, as our men were getting hungry, but we were too far 
 off to speak them. No exercises to-day, only the necessary work 
 being performed. The men came to the mast in a body and com- 
 plained that they had not enough to eat to do the necessary work on 
 the ship and keep well. 
 
 June 14th. — The crew having complained about their rations, 
 they were placed on full rations again by order of the captain, 
 and as we have only eighteen days more of provisions, we cer- 
 tainly will have a hard time of it before we get to the Cape of 
 Good Hope, unless we make a port on this side of the Atlantic. 
 
 June 15th. — Our anxiety to-night is to be able to weather some 
 rocks about sixty miles off the coast and about midway from 
 Bahia to Cape Frio. They are very dangerous, and if the wind 
 favors us we will pass them in the mid watch, otherwise we will 
 be obliged to steam past them, and we are about as short of coal 
 as we are of provisions. 
 
SEARCHING FOR PROVISIONS 111 
 
 June 16th. — About 1 a. m. in the midwatch last night we passed 
 the "Albrolhos" {i. e., keep eyes open) Rocks. Got a cast of the 
 deep sea lead and found bottom at twenty-five fathoms [one hun- 
 dred and fifty feet], sand and shell. Several small fishing vessels 
 in sight on the shoals. To-day carried out the usual routine and 
 fire quarters. At 4 p. m. we wore ship to the eastward. She did 
 not make a good course to-day. 
 
 June 17th. — Very pleasant all day. During the morning all 
 hands engaged in holystoning the decks and giving the ship a 
 thorough good cleaning, preparatory to entering port. Several 
 sails in sight to-day on the different quarters of the horizon, all 
 standing to the south and west. Exchanged colors with an Eng- 
 lish bark and a Dutch ship, but did not speak either. Sailing in 
 company with the Englishman all day. He could not outsail us, 
 but the Dutchman did. 
 
 June 18th (Sunday). — Sea remarkably smooth all day, weather 
 beautiful. Lost the southeast trade winds and took a light breeze 
 from the north. At sunset sighted land, distant about eighty-five 
 miles. 
 
 June 19th. — At daylight we were off Cape Frio with the wind 
 fresh from the northeast. We ran off the entrance to Rio Janeiro 
 in order to board all merchant vessels in hopes of getting some 
 provisions from them. We remained off the entrance to the port 
 until sunset and boarded the English ship Harmonies from Liver- 
 pool, another ship from St. Helena, and the Norwegian brig Hermes 
 from Italy; all bound into Rio Janeiro, but we could not procure 
 anything from any of them. At sunset we hoisted and secured 
 the boat, filled away and stood out to sea bound to Montevideo 
 in order to fill up with coal and provisions, we not having enough 
 on board to carry us to the Cape of Good Hope and scarcely enough 
 to Montevideo. Only ten days' rations on board! 
 
 June 20th. — Beautiful day, sea smooth, with little or no wind, 
 as we are in the southern "variables." At 1 p. m. started ahead 
 with the engines under reduced allowance of coal and took in and 
 furled all sail. To-day we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn, and 
 consequently are now in the south temperate zone. The island of 
 St. Sebastian in sight at sunset. 
 
 June 21st. — At 8 a. m. we struck a fresh breeze from the north 
 snd made all plain sail. 
 
 June 22d. — Very stormy and rainy all day, with the wind blowing 
 
112 A MOMENTOUS VOYAGE 
 
 hard from the southwest. Ship under low steam, steaming head 
 to it but making no headway until 2 p. m., when we stopped the 
 engines and banked the fires in order to save coal, we now having 
 only one day's coal on board and eight hundred miles from port dead 
 to windward 1 To-night very dark and stormy, with a heavy sea. 
 Ship behaving very well under the circumstances. 
 
 June 23d. — Wind blowing very strong all day from the south, 
 but with no rain. Ship still under reefed topsails and courses, 
 but making very little headway toward her port. At 9 a. m. 
 wore ship to the east and passed a brig standing westward. 
 
 June 24th. — Very pleasant all day, with little or no wind and 
 consequently we made very little on our way. A very heavy 
 swell set in from southwest. A great number of Cape pigeons 
 around the ship and swimming alongside while it is calm. 
 
 June 25th (Sunday). — Very stormy aU day, with the wind strong 
 from the northeast with much rain, consequently bad weather. 
 Busy in making and taking in sail as the squalls came up and 
 passed over us. At sunset the wind suddenly shifted to the north 
 and westward, with indications of it still hauling ahead and pros- 
 pects of a very bad night. 
 
 June 26th. — Last night was the most miserable one that I have 
 ever experienced at sea. At 11 p. m. a pampero struck us from 
 the southwest in all its force. We close-reefed the topsails and 
 took in the courses. The wind and sea increasing. At 3.30 a. m. 
 called all hands to reduce sail. With hard work took in and furled 
 the topsails and hove her to on the starboard tack under fore storm 
 staysail, close-reefed main topsail and storm mizzen. The foresail 
 and fore topmast staysail blew into ribbons before we could furl 
 them. Ship rolling very heavily, taking in sea fore and aft. 
 Obliged to batten down all the hatches. 
 
 She roUed so heavily that she endangered all the boats, filling 
 them with water at almost each roll. The ship hove-to until 
 noon, and as the wind and sea seemed increasing our captain came 
 to the conclusion that it would be impossible to reach and dan- 
 gerous to attempt getting to Montevideo before our provisions 
 gave out, we having only five days' rations of meat {nothing else) 
 and one day's coal on board, and had over six hundred and fifty miles 
 to go — with a dead-a-head wind. 
 
 So he gave the order to get up steam, put her before the wind 
 and run for St. Catherine, Brazil, distance about one hundred and 
 
COMPELLED TO MAKE POET 113 
 
 sixty-five miles, our nearest port. At 1 p. m. we started ahead 
 with the engines, heading north and logging thirteen knots. Wind 
 blowing a gale, sea very high and ship rolling very deep and taking 
 in a great amount of water. 
 
 During the day the sea stove in the starboard rail for about 
 fifty feet in gangway. Kept running until about midnight, when 
 we thought we were near the land and it being dangerous to run 
 head on any longer, not knowing our position correctly, we 
 stopped the engines and hove her to on port tack under fore storm 
 staysail, close-reefed main topsail and the storm mizzen — waiting 
 for daylight. Wind and sea moderating as the barometer rose. 
 Ship behaving very well under the circumstances and I am very 
 agreeably surprised in regard to her actions. 
 
 June 27th. — Ship hove-to until 9.30 a. m., when we started 
 ahead with the engines and made all plain sail, fore and aft, heading 
 to the west. At noon, when we found our position accurately, we 
 discovered that we were seventy-five miles to the southeast of the 
 Island of St. Catherine. Bore up to the north-northwest and 
 made all sail. Busy all day in clearing up a little after the gale 
 of yesterday, taking battens and gratings off the hatches, ^ extra 
 fastenings off the boats and guns, and clearing up generally. 
 
 At sunset we made the Island of St. Catherine and the coast of 
 Brazil, but it being so far off and so dark at 6 p. m. we found it 
 impossible to get in to-night, so we took in and furled all square 
 sail, brought by the wind under fore and aft sail, stopped the 
 engines, banked the fires and will be off and on until daylight and 
 try it again. 
 
 June 28th. — St. Catherine, Brazil. At daylight this morning we 
 were about fifteen miles from the northeast point of St. Catherine, 
 with wind light from the southwest. Made all sail and stood in 
 for the northern entrance to the anchorage. At 1 p. m. came to 
 anchor in St. Catherine's roads and was boarded by a couple of 
 Brazilian officers with the usual compliments, etc. Shortly after- 
 ward we were visited by the captain of the port, who informed ug 
 that a Brazilian transport with four hundred soldiers on board 
 had been wrecked about forty miles to the north and requested 
 that the Wachusett would go to their relief; but as we have only 
 three ions of coal and no provisions on board it is impossible to go 
 before we are supplied. 
 
 Got the boat ready to leave the ship so as to go up to the City 
 
114 A MOMENTOUS VOYAGE 
 
 of Our Lady of Solitude (which is the capital of the island and 
 province), in order to communicate with the governor and get the 
 U. S. Consul to send off the necessary supplies for a day or so. 
 
 June 29th. — Last night at sunset I left the ship in the gig for 
 the city, a distance of fourteen miles, and after a long, tedious 
 pull of over three hours, we reached it at 8.45 p. m. I immediately 
 set out to find our consul. With little trouble I found the residence 
 of the consul, Mr. Benjamin Lindsay, of Massachusetts, and soon 
 informed him of my errand and wanted his assistance to get the 
 provisions, etc., off to the ship before morning. After talking 
 over the news, etc., I went with him to the governor's to ascertain 
 if the orders in regard to the Wachvsett and Brazilian ports had 
 been revoked yet. 
 
 [Philip's Journal Continued in Chapter XII.) 
 
 We get further interesting details of this singular and 
 really very serious complication in which the Wachvsett 
 found herself, as the result of her attack on the Florida, 
 from Chief Engineer Edward Biddle Latch, U. S. N., who 
 says : " The Wachusett had instructions from our Govern- 
 ment not to touch at any Brazilian port, because of the 
 incident at Bahia. Being short of provisions, however, 
 ia fact reduced to a day's rations on account of the 
 spoiling of the supply laid in at the Cape de Verdes, and 
 also being short of coal, whUe a fierce pampero and tre- 
 mendous seas were rushiag northward (while we were 
 struggling to get south) our commanding officer was 
 compelled to make the port of St. Catherine. 
 
 "Upon arriving there several Brazilian men of war 
 were seen lying at anchor in the harbor. As is custom- 
 ary, an officer was sent to inquire the name of the in- 
 coming vessel and to offer the usual courtesies; but, as 
 soon as he heard the name Wachusett, he left very ab- 
 ruptly and hastened down the gangway to his boat and 
 hurriedly put back to his own ship. In due time, how- 
 ever, the situation was explained and permission was 
 
THE "wACHUSETT" RESTORED TO GRACE 115 
 
 graciously accorded for one of our boats to proceed up 
 to the town and secure some provisions. 
 
 " The great storm had driven a Brazilian man of war 
 ashore some distance above St. Catherine. Our com- 
 manding oflEicer assured the Brazilians that he would be 
 happy to lend his aid as soon as sufficient coal and pro- 
 visions could be got aboard the Wachusett. When this 
 had been accomplished the assistance they already had 
 sent had succeeded in getting the stranded craft afloat. 
 Our minister at Rio Janeiro, Gen. Webb, brought the 
 case of the Wachusett before Emperor Dom Pedro II., 
 who finally cut the Gordian knot by giving permission 
 for the Wachusett to visit Rio, free from all liability to 
 arrest, armoyance or inconvenience." 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 A TRIBUTE PROM HIS EXECUTIVE 
 
 Ex-Secretary John Davis Long 
 
 I DID not have the pleasure of Rear-Admiral Philip's 
 acquaintance until I became Secretary of the Navy, 
 March, 1897. At that time he was of the rank of 
 captain and was one of the first to whom my attention 
 was attracted. At that time too he had an excellent 
 record ; having graduated from the Naval Academy at the 
 beginning of the Civil War, in which he immediately 
 participated, serving in the Gulf and in the South At- 
 lantic squadrons, receiving wounds, and giving, even at 
 that early day, a promise of the loyalty and efl&ciency 
 which were his distinguishing characteristics during his 
 whole career. 
 
 In the long interval of peace which followed he served 
 in the Asiatic and European squadrons; was for a time 
 on leave and in command of one of the steamers of the 
 Pacific Mail Steamship Company, commanded the Wood- 
 ruff Scientific Expedition around the world, did duty in 
 connection with the Lighthouse Department, and, in the 
 varied duties which attach to a naval officer afloat and 
 ashore; and his name was a synonjon for fidehty, recti- 
 tude and professional ability. 
 
 When the Spanish-American war broke out he was in 
 command of the Texas, attached to the North Atlantic 
 squadron. In this capacity he served under Rear-Ad- 
 miral Sampson in the famous and now historical cam- 
 
AN IDEAL SAILOR 117 
 
 paign in the West Indies. During the blockade of the 
 Spanish fleet in "the harbor of Santiago, when the most 
 exacting vigilance was required of every commanding 
 officer, he met every requirement. 
 
 On the glorious day of the battle, when the Spanish 
 fleet came out in its attempt to escape and when our 
 Vessels closed in in obedience to the standing order of 
 the commander-in-chief, no ship did better duty and no 
 officer in that list of heroes was more distinguished than 
 Captain Philip. He went straight to his duty, struck 
 the enemy with all his force, and fought the good fight 
 until they surrendered. Then it was that, with bared 
 head, amid the carnage of battle and under the spell of 
 victory, he yet remembered to thank God for it and, full 
 of tender passion for the defeated foe, uttered those 
 memorable words which will last as long as the story of 
 the American navy: "Don't cheer, men; the poor 
 devils are dying!" 
 
 It was the utterance of a humane heart. It showed 
 that the man was greater than the captain. It is one of 
 those phrases which, hke Lawrence's " Don't give up the 
 ship," is forever engraved on the memory of the Amer- 
 ican people. 
 
 This famous utterance also suggests what is everywhere 
 recognized as distinctive of Admiral Philip. He was a 
 Christian man, not in the cant meaning of the word, but 
 as actuated and guided by the principles which the 
 Master taught as the basis of true living — a sense of ob- 
 ligation to God and to fellow-man. He was interested 
 in good works. His sincere and earnest desire to elevate 
 the moral condition of the enlisted men of the navy won 
 their confidence and also that of the community in their 
 behalf. Miss Gould, whose charities have made her 
 name one of the best beloved among women, recognized 
 
118 A TBIBUTE FROM HIS EXECUTIVE 
 
 these qualities ia him and co-operated with him by a 
 mimificent contribution of money, amoimting to hun- 
 dreds of thousands of dollars, toward establishing near 
 the gate of the New York Navy Yard a refuge home 
 for United States seamen. Indeed, everybody associated 
 him with good works. 
 
 After the war he was placed in command of the New 
 York Navy Yard, a position the responsibilities of which 
 are great. Few men, even in the great private establish- 
 ments of business enterprise, have so much upon their 
 shoulders. Two or three thousand men are employed 
 there. Various naval departments, represented by naval 
 officers, are under his direction. Two or three miUions 
 of dollars each year are spent in the repair of vessels, for 
 labor alone, and a corresponding amount for material. 
 Under aU these responsibilities he was still the simple, 
 loyal, true-hearted, efficient man, unspoiled by the great 
 naval distinction which he shared with the other Santiago 
 heroes — devoted to his duty and to his friends. 
 
 I was inexpressibly shocked when I heard of his 
 death, and when we laid him away at Annapolis, in the 
 beautiful cemetery overlooking the blue waters of the 
 historic Chesapeake, near the Academic grounds where 
 he was trained for naval service, I felt that I had never 
 discharged, as Secretary of the Navy, any duty more 
 appropriate than that of paying my tribute of respect at 
 the burial of one of its most deserving officers. 
 
Midshipman Woodioard Philip, son of Bear-Admiral Philip. 
 
CHAPTER XII 
 
 AT RIO DE JANEIRO 
 
 IN Chapter X we left the Wachusett in the port of 
 St. Catherine, off the coast of Brazil, in the extra- 
 ordinary condition of being a regularly commis- 
 sioned United States warship with her supply of coal and 
 provisions exhausted, with her crew in a mutinous frame 
 of mind (having just survived a terrific series of gales 
 on very short rations) and yet afraid to enter the port 
 of a nation with which our Government was at peace. 
 Seldom has a dignified man of war of any nation been 
 placed in such an embarrassing and amusing (had it not 
 been so serious) predicament as that in which the wicked 
 Wachusett found herself at this critical period of her 
 cruise — and aU the result of her own pranks in the harbor 
 of Bahia less than a year before. 
 
 Phihp contiaues the narration of his efforts to hasten 
 provisions to his starving shipmates (and coal for the 
 equally hungry engine furnaces) and then goes on with 
 his story of his stay and experiences at Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 Philip's journal of a cruise 
 
 {Continued from page 114.) 
 
 St. Catherine, June 20th. — I was in the gig all night trying to 
 get the lazy Brazilians to carry some coal and provisions down 
 to the ship. At daylight gave that business up and went up to 
 the Consul's again for his assistance to get the lazy good for noth- 
 ing natives to work. After a great amount of trouble we hired a 
 
120 AT RIO DE JANEIRO 
 
 boat and loaded her with flour and beef and started her for the 
 ship. 
 
 The coal was to be furnished by the Government to carry us 
 down and back to this anchorage. At 10 a. m. I left the city for 
 the ship and at 3 p. m. got back again, about tired out. At sunset, 
 as the boat with the provisions had not yet arrived, we sent a 
 cutter with two officers up to the city in search of food, with orders 
 not to lose sight of the Brazilian boat until she was alongside of us. 
 
 Although the city appears to be a very nice place of about fif- 
 teen thousand inhabitants, I never was so disgusted with a place 
 and its people as I am with this. I will not visit it again except 
 in case of necessary official duty. The people are the most lazy, 
 indolent, ignorant set of mortals that I have ever met. It is im- 
 possible to get provisions here for a long cruise, consequently we 
 are obliged to go back to Rio de Janeiro for supplies. The Bra- 
 zilian sloop of war Americus is in port at anchor near us. 
 
 June 30th. — St. Catherine. Received some provisions from 
 the city during the midwatch last night. To-day busy in painting 
 the ship outside and aloft and blacking down the rigging, prepara- 
 tory to going to Rio. 
 
 Some of the officers visited the main land to-day at the little 
 village of Santa Gruz and found it the same as all towns which they 
 had recently visited. The principal object of interest was the 
 church. As the Brazilian steamer left the harbor last night for 
 the scene of the transport wreck we will not go. 
 
 The Governor sent a request up that the Wachusett would come 
 up to the city in order that he and his friends might see her and 
 entertain our officers, but I think the water will not allow us to go 
 up, there being only fourteen feet on the bar. 
 fe July 1st. — St. Catherine. At daylight this morning a Brazilian 
 brig loaded with coal from Rio de Janeiro came in and an- 
 chored. As we had permission from the Governor to coal from 
 her we got all ready and sent a boat on board to bring her along- 
 side; but by the laziness of the natives they could not get ready 
 to discharge before Monday next, hence we are delayed that much 
 longer. 
 
 Several of the officers visited the main land to-day. I went on 
 the beach with a rifle in the morning. The transport that was 
 wrecked to the north came in and went up to the city in a dam- 
 aged condition. 
 
DANGEROUS WEATHER 121 
 
 July 2d (Sunday). — Bio wiag very fresh during the morning, so 
 that at 9 a. m. we let go the starboard anchor. Allowed some of 
 the petty officers to take a cutter and go on the main land to get 
 some oranges, etc. 
 
 July 3d. — ^This morning we hauled the Brazilian brig alongside 
 after many protestations from her captain for fear of chafing, 
 damages, etc., and took out of her fifty tons of coal, enough to 
 carry us to Rio de Janeiro. Calm and pleasant all day. 
 
 During the blow yesterday the Brazilian sloop of war dragged 
 her anchor nearly in to the beach. 
 
 July 4th (At sea). — At 8 a. m. we dressed the ship with flags in 
 honor of the Glorious Fourth, the pride of all Americans, but we 
 did not fire a salute of thirty-four or one hundred guns on account 
 of getting under way, as we should have done if we had remained 
 in port during the day. 
 
 At 11.30 A. M. got up steam and called all hands up anchor, got 
 under way and steamed out of St. Catherine's roads, heading north- 
 east, bound to Rio de Janeiro for supplies, etc. Very dark, threat- 
 ening weather all day, the barometer standing very low. 
 
 July 5th. — Dark, cloudy and rainy all day, the wind quite fresh 
 but gradually hauling from north to southwest and southeast and 
 finally by sunset it came out ahead, with prospects of giving us a 
 bad night of it. 
 
 July 6th. — Very thick, dirty and stormy all day. Impossible 
 to see more than a mile or so from the ship. Ship standing in 
 for the entrance to Rio harbor until 5 p. m., when we thought we 
 were about twenty miles off the land and found it almost impossible 
 to get in to-night. We headed eastward, stopped the engines and 
 banked the fires, getting a cast of the lead every two hours in order 
 to judge our approach to the coast. 
 
 It being very thick when we left St. Catherine and continuing 
 so ever since, we were unable to get an observation and conse- 
 quently are obliged to depend entirely on dead reckoning for our 
 position, which is uncertain. To-night will be another bad night at 
 sea. 
 
 July 7th. — Last night about 11 p. m. we made the light on 
 Raza Island, off the entrance to Rio. It being too thick and 
 dirty to run inside, we lay off and on under close reefed topsails 
 until daylight. At daylight we took in and furled all sails and 
 stood in for the entrance under a low head of steam, feeling our 
 
122 AT KIO DE JANEIRO 
 
 way by the lead. At 8 a. m. we made Raza Island and stood in 
 for the harbor. At 10 a. m. we came to anchor in the harbor of 
 Rio de Janeiro, astern of the English and French ships of war and 
 near the town. 
 
 As soon as we had anchored we were visited by the health of- 
 ficers and an officer from each of the men of war in the harbor, 
 with the usual compliments. Sent on shore immediately in search 
 of provisions, news, etc. 
 
 At 3 p. M. got under way and steamed across Rio bay to the 
 coal island for some coal. Made fast and hauled alongside of 
 the wharf of the coal shed and began coaling ship. We were 
 coaled by Portuguese men carrying the coal in baskets on their 
 heads. 
 
 July 8th. — Finished coaling at sunset, when we hauled out from 
 coal wharf and returned to the anchorage. In the evening I went 
 on shore with the captain to make an official call upon our Minister, 
 General J. W. Webb, of Claverack, N. Y., and spent a very pleas- 
 ant evening with the General and his wife. The French and Por- 
 tuguese Ministers also were there for a short time. 
 
 July 9th (Sunday). — I went on shore in the morning to see the 
 place, made several purchases and enjoyed myself and returned 
 to the ship. In the evening I went with the Captain and dined 
 with our Minister. There were present our Consul, Mr. Monroe 
 from Ohio, the English Consul, Mr. Hunt, and the Portuguese and 
 French attaches. Spent a very agreeable evening. 
 
 July 10th. — This seems more like a summer's day. The Em- 
 peror of Brazil, Dom Pedro II, left Rio for the seat of war. The 
 Emperor expected to leave at 10 a. m. and consequently all the 
 houseSjbalconies, hills and wharfs about the city and all shipping 
 in the bay, were crowded with people to witness his departure. 
 All the men of war dressed ship with flags and manned the yards 
 as the Emperor's steamer passed, the Wachusett of course following 
 suit, but with the addition of giving the Emperor three hearty 
 cheers. [The Wachusett had good reasons for being especially 
 grateful to the Emperor. — E. S. M.] I went on shore in the after- 
 noon and took a ride all about the city, and then drove out and 
 around the grounds of the Emperor's Palace. 
 
 July 11th. — Busy all day on board ship in scraping spars and 
 painting ship and getting things in order generally. In the even- 
 ing I went on shore and while there I met Professor Agassiz of 
 
OFFICIAL CALLS 123 
 
 Harvard University, Massachusetts. He is traveling over Brazil 
 on a scientific expedition. 
 
 July 12th. — The United States Consul, Mr. Monroe, and a Yankee 
 gentleman, came on boaja this morning to see the ship and call 
 upon the officers. 
 
 July 13th. — At 8 a. m. dressed the ship with flags in honor of 
 some Brazilian Princess' birthday. Went on shore to-day, drove 
 to the botanical garden, distance about eight miles outside 
 of Rio. 
 
 July 14th. — To-day the Portuguese Admiral and three Brazilian 
 officers visited the ship to see her. One of the Brazilian lieuten- 
 ants had been with the Prince de Joinville with the old Army of 
 the Potomac and was through the seven days' fight under General 
 McClellan. 
 
 July 15th. — At noon our Captain left the ship to go to the City 
 of Petropolis on a visit of a couple of days upon our Minister. He 
 was accompanied by our Consul and Mr. Pegram. 
 
 July 16th (Sunday). — In the evening I went on shore and at- 
 tended vespers in the Cathedral and afterward went to the opera. 
 
 July 17th. — Received an official visit from an English officer on 
 board the English warship Satellite, also one from a Brazilian, 
 informing us that to-morrow was another holiday in honor of the 
 coronation of the present Emperor. 
 
 July 18th. — At 8 a. m. all the foreign men of war, including the 
 Wachusett, dressed ship in honor of the coronation of the Em- 
 peror of Brazil and at 1 p. m. all the Brazilian and Portuguese 
 warships fired a national salute of twenty-one guns. 
 
 July 19th. — Received a visit from several English lieutenants 
 of the Satellite. At 3 p. m. the French mail steamer from France 
 came in, having as passengers the Emperor's daughter and her 
 husband. She is heir to the throne of Brazil. As the steamer 
 came up with her distinguished passengers all the men of war 
 dressed ship with flags and the Brazilian, French and Portuguese 
 fired a national salute; the Count and Countess have just re- 
 turned from their wedding tour in Portugal. 
 
 July 20th. — I went ashore this evening dressed in white duck 
 and was overtaken by a furious rain storm, with the result that I 
 got soaking wet before I could regain the ship. 
 
 July 21st. — Very rainy and dirty all day, so that it was very un- 
 comfortable on board the ship. To-day dressed ship by request 
 
124 AT RIO DE JANEIRO 
 
 of the Portuguese Admiral in honor of the birthday of the Queen 
 of Portugal. 
 
 July 22d. — At 7 p. M. a marriage took place on board the Wa- 
 chusett, the Captain officiating. The moxe interested parties were 
 the second mate and stewardess of the steamer Rapidan. Al- 
 though it was not a "diamond wedding," or a marriage in high 
 life, yet the bride and groom seemed very happy after the knot 
 had been tied, and returned to their ship in excellent spirits and 
 hopes for the future. 
 
 July 23d (Sunday). — All of the men of war dressed ship to-day, 
 in honor of the birth of some Brazilian Princess, the Brazilians 
 firing a salute. There seems to be no end of Brazilian royalty in 
 these parts. 
 
 One of our marines was murdered on shore last night by a cow- 
 ardly Brazilian secessionist. 
 
 I dined on board of the English warship Satellite and had a 
 splendid time there this evening. 
 
 July 24th. — At 8 a. m. the Satellite got under way and stood out 
 to sea, bound to England, she having been out on this station 
 three and a half years. At 2 p. m. the body of Private Lee, who 
 was murdered on shore, was brought on board. I called aU hands 
 to "bury the dead," and our commander read the burial service 
 to the officers and men. Afterward took the body on shore and 
 buried it in the Protestant burying grounds across the bay. 
 
 The French Admiral and three commanding officers visited our 
 ship to-day and seemed very much pleased. 
 
 July 25th. — I allowed thirty-two of our men to go on shore 
 to-day on twenty-four hours liberty. Thirty were sent ashore 
 yesterday with the same privilege. 
 
 July 26th-28th. — These days were mostly taken up with super- 
 intending a gang of carpenters who were building an extension to 
 the poop deck and making some other alterations about the ship. 
 As there was little of the regular work to be done I allowed our 
 men as much liberty as possible, sending them ashore in lots of 
 twenty and thirty at a time. As for myself I was compelled to 
 remain aboard most of the time, spending only a part of the even- 
 ing of July 28th ashore. 
 
 July 29th. — At daylight all the men of war dressed ship with 
 flags and fired a national salute in honor of the birthday of the 
 Princess Imperial. 
 
AT PETB0P0LI8 125 
 
 At 1 p. M. Paymaster Sears and I left the ship to spend a few 
 days in Petropolis. We went by steamer to Paimha, thence by 
 sail to the foot of the Orange Mountains and then with carriage to 
 the city, which is situated- three thousand feet above the level of 
 the sea. In ascending this three thousand feet of elevation you 
 are obliged to make ninety-seven zigzags and go over twelve miles 
 of road — the most beautiful one in the world. 
 
 After arriving at the top it seems as if you might throw a stone 
 down in the depot below, though you had gone over twelve miles 
 to reach that point. The scenery was the most magnificent that 
 I have ever seen. We arrived at Petropolis at 6 p. m. and dined 
 with our Minister, General Webb, and family. 
 
 July 30th (Sunday). — Petropolis. After getting our breakfast 
 at the McDowall House, we started out on a ramble through the 
 mountains to a celebrated cascade, distant six miles. We had a 
 very pleasant walk along a winding path through the forests of the 
 mountains and finally reached the faUs, which are formed by small 
 mountain streams leaping over a precipice into a valley below. I 
 should judge that they are double the height of the falls near the 
 "Mountain House" at home. After returning we strolled all 
 about the City of Petropolis and through the Palace grounds of 
 the Emperor, which by the way, cannot compare in any respect 
 with our own modest White House. 
 
 July 31st. — At 6.30 this morning we left Petropolis to return to 
 the Wachusett. On arriving at the top of the mountain we saw 
 the most magnificent sight in nature. The whole valley below 
 was filled with clouds, and with the bright rising sun it appeared 
 like one frozen field of ice or a terrific hurricane at sea. 
 
 After a pleasant trip of about five hours we got back to the ship 
 again, much pleased with our short visit. 
 
 To-day the ship was doubly dressed, also all the men of war, in 
 honor of the coronation of the Empress of Brazil and the birthday 
 of the Queen of Portugal. All the foreigners fired national salutes. 
 In the afternoon I went on shore with our Captain and visited the 
 Brazilian Navy Yard, inspecting their ironclads under construction, 
 and then walked about the city. 
 
 Aug. 1st. — In the morning all the vessels dressed ship again, 
 this time because the Emperor's new son-in-law left the harbor 
 bound to Rio Grande. 
 
 Aug. 2d. — All the men of war dressed ship and fired salutes 
 
126 AT EIO DE JANEIRO 
 
 again to-day in honor of the birthday of another Brazilian Princess. 
 Is there any end to these Brazilian nobles? 
 
 Aug. 3d. — As it was very disagreeable to-day very little routine 
 work was done and toward evening I allowed two of our crews to 
 man two cutters and pull a race in the harbor for their own satis- 
 faction. 
 
 Aug. 4th and 5th. — Busy about the decks with carpenters re- 
 pairing the poop and bridge. 
 
 Aug. 6th (Sunday). — Last night the U. S. gunboat Mohongo, a 
 double ender, came in and anchored. She is from New York, 
 bound to the Pacific under the command of Commander Nicholson. 
 
 Aug. 7th. — In the afternoon Commodore Crawford of the Eng- 
 lish battleship Egmont visited our ship and seemed well pleased 
 with our arrangements on board. At ten o'clock at night a squall 
 struck our ship, so that she dragged her anchor about a mile before 
 we could bring her up. Fortunately there was no damage. 
 
 Aug. 8th. — At daylight we got up steam in one boiler in order to 
 move back to our anchorage. Busy all the morning in heaving up 
 anchors, cleaning chains and getting back to our anchorage. 
 
 Three of our men deserted last night; glad to lose the scoundrels. 
 
 Aug. 9th. — After quarters I went on shore with a party, pro- 
 cured some horses and went up to the top of Corcorada, from 
 which place they say you have the finest view of any place in the 
 world. 
 
 Chief Engineer Latch gives some details of this "ride" 
 which are not set down in Philip's diary. He says: 
 "During our stay at Rio, Philip and Pegram proposed 
 a horseback ride to the top of Corcorada, a near by moun- 
 tain peak and asked me to join them. I did so, and 
 soon we were tearing at full speed up one of the principal 
 thoroughfares, much to the astonishment of the natives, 
 who hastened to doors and windows in blank amaze- 
 ment at such unwonted clattering of hoofs. Unfortun- 
 ately I had no whip, but Pegram had one plenty long 
 enough to reach my horse, while Philip had another 
 equally extended. 
 
 " It was not long before a peculiar swish was heard, 
 
A HORSEBACK PARTY 127 
 
 followed bj"^ a subdued thud, reminding one of our 
 staccato notes in the lower register — when the singer 
 really has a cold. These sounds, which seemed to de- 
 velop behind the saddle upon which I sat, had an effect 
 upon my beast which, curiously enough, brought out the 
 finer points of his activity; causing him to bound for- 
 ward as though he enjoyed it. For this I was correspond- 
 ingly grateful. 
 
 "Thus we sped on, Phihp leading, chatting, laughing 
 lightly, and with sparkling eyes enjoyed in their fullness 
 the checkered sunbeams as they fell. Then with almost 
 boyish happiness he drank in the soothing coldness of the 
 mountain air, the vagaries of the distant sea, the forest 
 near at hand, the sky above, the midway cloud, the 
 verdant dales that covered the lines of beauty here and 
 there, and valley far below. Truly, it was a most joy- 
 ous ride; truly it was one in which the purity of the 
 inner man lifted its portals to greet the birthright purity 
 of the great without." 
 
 Aug. 10th. — The English sloop of war Sharpshooter came in and 
 anchored. There are strong appearances of a storm gathering. 
 
 Aug. 11th. — Rainy and stormy all day. Several English of- 
 ficers came on board and visited us to-day, and in the evening I 
 went on board the Mohongo and while there three of their men 
 stole my boat and ran off with it. Two of our men ran away this 
 morning. 
 
 Aug. 12th. — Busy to-day getting ship ready for inspection to- 
 morrow. 
 
 Aug. 13th (Sunday). — In the evening I went on shore with the 
 Captain and spent the evening with Mr. Ellison and friends. 
 Pleasant time. 
 
 Aug. 14th. — We informed the Brazilian authorities this morning 
 that by the new regulations the Wachtisett is obliged to salute and 
 consequently commenced and fired a salute of twenty-one guns 
 at 1 p. M., with the Brazilian ensign at the fore. In the afternoon 
 an English Admiral visited the ship, but owing to the present feel- 
 
128 AT RIO DE JANEIRO 
 
 ing between the two countries we did not give him the usual salute 
 of thirteen guns. To-day held a summary court martial on board 
 to try an ordinary seaman for getting drunk, etc., on duty. I was 
 senior member of the Court. Sentenced him to be confined in 
 double irons on bread and water for thirty days. 
 
 Aug. 15th. — At 8 A. M. all the men of war dressed ship with 
 flags and fired national salutes of twenty-one guns in honor of the 
 birthday of the French Emperor, Napoleon I, and on shore it was 
 a holiday in honor of some saint. It was one of the greatest days 
 in Brazil. I went on shore in the evening and went to the Cathe- 
 dral, where a fine band was playing lively and fancy tunes inside, the 
 people on their knees counting their beads before some image, and 
 splendid fireworks outside the church. The streets of Rio were 
 full of people of all classes and we enjoyed ourselves. 
 
 I attempted to enter a Masonic lodge, but had no certificate and 
 could not get in without some trouble. 
 
 The Mohongo came alongside in the morning and put on board 
 of us all of her powder and shell in order to go into dry dock. 
 
 Aug. 16th. — The French mail steamer came in to-day, reporting 
 that two United States frigates were at anchor in Bahia. We are 
 waiting for their arrival here in order to get some salt provisions 
 from them. I went out to Corcorada again to-day on horseback 
 and came back in a rain storm, but had a very pleasant time. 
 
 Aug. 17th-20th. — Nothing occurred on these days excepting 
 that on the night of the 17th two of our men attempted to desert, 
 but on being fired on they returned and were placed in irons. 
 
 Aug. 21st. — At 5 p. M. the TJ. S. S. Susquehanna, with the flag 
 of Rear-Admiral Godon, came in and anchored very near us. We 
 saluted his flag with thirteen guns, which were returned. I spent 
 the evening on board of her and had a very pleasant time. Since 
 she has at last arrived we are in hopes of getting our salt provisions 
 and continuing our voyage. 
 
 Aug. 22d. — General Webb and his wife, Admiral Godon and 
 staff, and the Brazilian Commodore, came on board to-day. Sal- 
 uted each with their respective number of guns. 
 
 Aug. 23d. — The different foreign admirals visited the Susque- 
 hanna. 
 
 Aug. 24th. — The Brazilian Commodore visited and inspected 
 the ship and seemed very anxious to examine our rifles, both large 
 and small, and desired to take a couple of boat rifles on board his 
 
INTERMINABLE SALUTES 129 
 
 flagship. We sent the Mohongo the powder and shell on board 
 her to-day. 
 
 Aug. 25th. — We received stores in the paymaster's department 
 to-day, but not enough to carry us to the Cape of Good Hope; 
 hence more delay, much to our disgust. The carpenters have at 
 last finished their work on board. 
 
 Aug. 26th. — To-day being the birthday of Pegram and myself 
 we dined on board the Susquehanna with our old schoolmates and 
 classmates. In the evening several of the officers attended a large 
 ball given by a club in Rio. 
 
 Aug. 27th. — In the evening I attended the opera in the Ljnic 
 Theater — had a dry time. 
 
 Aug. 28th. — No exercises to-day. Transferred the greatest 
 rascal in the navy to the Mohongo, by request of her captain. 
 
 Aug. 29th. — At 8 A. M. the Mohongo steamed out of the harbor, 
 bound round the Horn for the Pacific. We loosed sail with the 
 flagship Susquehanna to-day and had the satisfaction of beating 
 her. At 10 A. m. the Brazilian flagship half masted her colors and 
 fired half hour guns all day for the death of Viscount de Capo Frio, 
 who was an admiral in their navy and had been killed in battle in 
 Paraguay. 
 
 • Aug. 30th. — At 8 A. M. we got up steam and ran back to our old 
 anchorage. Now since she is moved at this late day there is no 
 telling when we will get out of Rio. 
 
 Aug. 31st. — This evening I attended an opera, which was the 
 greatest farce I have ever seen in Rio. 
 
 Sept. 1st. — There was great rejoicing to-day on shore. The 
 Brazilians have heard of some victory in the south, which is the 
 seat of war, it being the first success of any kind they have had 
 since the war began. 
 
 Sept. 2d-3d. — Little of note these days. 
 
 Sept. 4th. — At 8 a. m. all the ships in the harbor dressed ship 
 with flags in honor of the anniversary of the wedding of the Em- 
 peror of the Brazils and at meridian the Brazilians fired national 
 salutes both from their ships and forts. 
 
 Sept. 5th. — Busy in overhauling the guns, shell rooms, etc. 
 Loosed and furled sail with the flagship. 
 
 Sept. 6th. — At 1 p. M. Admiral Godon, his chief of staff. Major 
 and Mrs. Ellison, and the Brazilian commodore and aide visited us 
 to-day. 
 
130 AT RIO DE JANEIRO 
 
 In the evening I went ashore and visited the Masonic lodge. 
 One American was initiated. 
 
 Sept. 7th. — At daylight dressed ship in honor of the independ- 
 ence day of the Brazils and also in honor of the birth of some Por- 
 tuguese prince. Yesterday we dressed ship in honor of the birth 
 of another Portuguese prince ! 
 
 The United States gunboat Nipsic, Lieutenant Commander 
 Henry, came in to-day and anchored. Great amount of fireworks 
 burnt ashore to-night. 
 
 Sept. 8th. — Dressed ship again to-day in honor of another Por- 
 tuguese prince I 
 
 Sept. 9th-12th. — Very little worthy of note occurred on these 
 days. On the 9th the Austrian Minister visited the different ships 
 with the usual ceremonies and salutes. On the evening of the 10th 
 I dined aboard the Brazilian transport San Romain. 
 
 Sept. 13th. — This morning I turned one of the boys out of the 
 ship and put him on the beach, as being too dirty and worthless 
 to remain in the navy. 
 
 Sept. 14th. — Arrested one of the deserters on shore to-day and 
 locked him up on " low diet " for the rest of our stay in port. 
 
 A new Brazilian ironclad went on her trial trip this morning. 
 She was a very good success for this class of vessels, but no match 
 for one of our little monitors. 
 
 Sept. 15th- 18th. — Little of interest on these days. 
 
 Sept. 19th. — At last all the requisite stores and provisions have 
 been received and we are nearly ready for sea, after a tedious stay 
 of nearly three months in Rio., Busy all day overhauling the 
 chain cables and lockers and making minor preparations for going 
 to sea, settling up the ship's bills, etc. 
 
 At 4 p. M. the U. S. gunboat Nyack, Lieutenant Commander 
 Newman, came in and anchored, bound to the Pacific. I went on 
 shore for the last time to-night. 
 
 {Philip's Journal continued in Chapter XIV.) 
 
CHAPTER XIII 
 
 UNDEE HIS COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF 
 
 William Thomas Sampson 
 
 THOSE who were with Jack PhUip in the old acad- 
 emy days, when we were all youngsters together,, 
 must have a vivid remembrance of his ringing 
 laugh, in the old mess hall. How we all admired in those 
 days the promptness and precision of our meals! At 
 first came the enforced silence, when drawn up in parade 
 we heard the adjutant read out in stentorian tones the 
 long list of demerits. 
 
 But the moment we entered the mess hall we might 
 talk as we marched to our places. After that it needed 
 no compulsion to secure quiet. Only the clink of knives 
 and forks broke the silence, until when our army of young 
 cormorants had satisfied their first eager hunger came 
 the moment when Colonel Swann, with a majestic wave 
 of his right arm, would summon in the white-aproned 
 band of colored servants, who bore aloft the famous pies 
 of so generous a supply, in those days, that each middy 
 might give, without missing it, haU his share to his near- 
 est friend, hungrier, or growing faster maybe, than him- 
 seK. 
 
 Just during the interval of waiting before the dessert 
 came in, was the moment when Jack's contagious laugh 
 would ring out in response to some witticism of a friend. 
 Like wildfire it would spread through that large hall, 
 for the merriment of that laugh was irresistible; and 
 
132 UNDER HIS COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF 
 
 though in after years the voice was sobered, there always 
 remained a merry twinkle of the eye which was charac- 
 teristic of the happy soul within. 
 
 Not at all inconsistent with this quality, though quite 
 different, is another which marked him all his latter 
 days — a clearly defined and frankly avowed faith in God 
 and a future life, and an acknowledgment in all he did 
 of his duty toward his Maker. Many a time he gave a 
 reminder to others less careful. 
 
 And aU of it — his faith and his idea of duty, his duty 
 and yours; and his acknowledgment of allegiance and 
 gratitude to the Higher Power — was expressed in such a 
 matter-of-fact way, quite free from cant, that it bore 
 great weight with all who came in contact with him. 
 
 I remember in the early days of the famous blockade 
 off Santiago, in June, 1898, while we were waiting for 
 Cervera to make his attempt to escape or to fight his 
 way through our little squadron, the captains had assem- 
 bled on board the New York one morning to discuss the 
 practicability of bombarding the harbor of Santiago. 
 The commanding officers had given their opinions, and 
 after some discussion it was decided to make the attack 
 the next morning, June 5th. 
 
 The conference was over and the members were about 
 to depart when Captain Philip asked if we knew we were 
 planning to do this noisy thing on Sunday morning. All 
 but he had lost track of the days of the week in the 
 monotonous worry of the times. But we were glad to 
 be reminded, and the attack was, of course, postponed 
 till Monday morning early. 
 
 A month later Cervera made his famous sally, and it 
 fell on Sunday, but the beginning of it was none of our 
 doing. Somebody else forgot what day it was, not we. 
 And nobody recognized better than Captain PhiHp the 
 
A LOVABLE MAN 133 
 
 Sunday work to be done when it came, nor did a larger 
 share of it. 
 
 His after-avowal that the work was God's own and 
 his pubUc acknowledgment of gratitude to Heaven for 
 the day's victory was just like him, and we blessed him 
 for putting into words what no one else, however much 
 he might have felt it, would have had the grace to say.' 
 
 So, whether we knew him as youth or man, as grave 
 or gay, as energetic, brave, or incomparably just, we 
 knew him as above aU, a lovable man and a Christian. 
 
CHAPTER XIV 
 
 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE 
 
 Philip's journal op a cruise 
 (Continued from Chapter XII) 
 
 Sept. 20th. — Busy making preparations for going to sea after a 
 tedious delay in Eio de Janeiro of seventy-five days. At 2 p. m. 
 got up steam and unmoored ship. At 4 p. m. got under way and 
 stood out of the harbor for sea. Loaded the guns, secured them 
 and made snug for a long passage, the ship being quite uneasy 
 after her long idleness. The sea was quite smooth, but we have 
 all the indications of coming bad weather. Several of the officers 
 seasick, but all are glad that we are again " on the move." 
 
 Sept. 21st. — Wind light, sea smooth and the ship going along 
 finely under sail and steam. At sunset we headed south, so as to 
 get the westerly winds. 
 
 Sept. 22d. — At 8 a. m. a light breeze "struck up" from the east, 
 the wind gradually increasing and hauling round to the north 
 until 1 p. M., when we stopped the engines, banked fires and dis- 
 connected the propeller. As it was blowing very hard at sunset 
 we took in all the lighter sails, double reefed topsails and made 
 tight for a blow. It bids fair for bad weather. 
 
 Sept. 23d. — At noon it was blowing a gale, so we took in all sail, 
 got up steam and hove to. As the ship was taking in great quan- 
 tities of water we battened down all the hatches. Blowing a 
 terrific gale this morning, ship lying-to under storm mizzen and a 
 tarpaulin in the weather mizzen rigging to keep her head to it. At 
 noon the storm abated somewhat and by sunset we could make 
 sail to close reefed topsails. Although the wind is moderate and 
 hauling to the west we will have another bad night of it. The 
 Wachiisett is a perfect sea boat when properly managed. 
 
 Sept. 24th (Sunday). — During the night the wind moderated, so 
 that we had quite moderate weather this morning, which continued 
 throughout this and the following day, Sept. 25th. 
 

 
MAKING A FINE PASSAGE 135 
 
 Sept. 26th. — Very disagreeable weather all day, with frequent 
 rain squalls. The wind decreased in force until 2 p. m., when it 
 died out altogether, leaving us rolling in the trough of the sea, 
 which was very uncomfortable. At 6 p. m. we started ahead with 
 steam, using a short allowance of coal. 
 
 Sept. 27th. — Rainy and squally all day. A very low barom- 
 eter. At 3 p. M. the wind suddenly hauled, in a squall, to south-south- 
 east. We closed reefed topsails, disconnected the propeller and 
 found that we went much faster under sail alone. 
 
 Sept. 28th. — Blowing quite fresh, very cold, so that overcoats 
 were quite comfortable. 
 
 Sept. 29th. — To-day we caught an albatross which measured 
 ten feet across its back, from tip to tip of wings. After marking 
 her and putting the ship's name on her neck we allowed her to fly 
 away and rejoin her companions. 
 
 Sept. 30th. — Wind very strong from the south and east, from 
 which direction it has been blowing three or four days with a cur- 
 rent setting to the northwest of about twenty-five miles a day. 
 Consequently, the ship does not make a very good course for the 
 Gape. 
 
 Oct. 1st (Sunday). — At 10 a. m. inspected the crew at quarters, 
 called all hands to muster and read the articles of war, and the 
 surgeon read divine service to the officers and men mustered 
 around the capstan. It has been very pleasant all day. In the 
 afternoon we exchanged colors with a French ship. 
 
 Oct. 2d. — We are steaming ahead slowly to the south, being on 
 very short allowance of coal. 
 
 Oct. 3d. — A fine breeze struck us at 8 a. m., but toward after- 
 noon it moderated. Several sail in sight, all evidently bound for 
 the Gape. They all beat us badly at sailing, but on getting up 
 steam we ran past them. We are in hopes of striking the westerly 
 winds to-morrow, which will carry us to the Cape, thus saving our 
 coal, which is getting very low in the bunkers again. 
 
 Oct. 4th. — At sunrise this morning a breeze sprang up from the 
 northwest and we at once set all drawing sail, even to studding 
 sails. The wind continued strong and fresh all day and we are 
 making a fine run of it under sail alone. 
 
 Oct. 5th. — At about ten o'clock last night we witnessed a partial 
 eclipse of the moon, which lasted about one hour and a quarter. 
 As the wind gave every indication of continuing favorable all day 
 
136 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE 
 
 we hauled all the fires from under the boilers, lowered the smoke- 
 stack, bent the mainsail, and are now in every respect a sailing 
 craft. One sail in sight to leeward, evidently bound around the 
 Cape. I am sorry to acknowledge that she beat us in sailing at 
 the rate of about two knots to the hour. 
 
 Oct. 6th. — At noon to-day, on taking an observation, we found 
 ourselves one hundred and twenty-three miles to the northward 
 of where the " dead reckoning " had placed us, so that we must 
 have experienced a very strong northerly current. We hauled 
 up two points to overcome it. 
 
 Oct. 7th. — We find the ship's bottom has become so foul as to 
 greatly impair her sailing. A change of weather — for the worse — 
 is anticipated. To-night, at eight o'clock, we were on the meridian 
 of the Island of Tristan d' Acunha, distant about fifty miles. It 
 is a dangerous rock, about six miles high, desirable to sight in 
 the daytime, but exceedingly dangerous to approach after dark. 
 
 Oct. 8th (Sunday). — Wind still fresh from the southwest, with 
 a very heavy sea and current setting in from the south. There 
 are frequent heavy squalls of rain during the day and there is every 
 appearance of another bad night, the barometer falling very 
 rapidly. 
 
 Oct. 9th. — In a rain squall last night the breeze died out, leaving 
 us almost in a calm until morning, but with a heavy sea setting in 
 from the south. Thick, oold, cloudy weather to-day. 
 
 Oct. lOth-llth. — Continued on our course in the usual way 
 these two days. 
 
 Oct. 12th. — We crossed the meridian of Greenwich last night, 
 so that we are now in east longitude. It has been beautiful to-day, 
 quite cool, sea very smooth, with a pleasant breeze. Busy in 
 cleaning ship preparatory to entering port. 
 
 Oct. 13th. — Continued our preparations for entering port. 
 
 Oct. 14th. — To-day we reached the western edge of the Agulhas 
 Bank, judging from the discoloration of the water and our position 
 at noon, which places us a little over four hundred and fifty miles 
 from the " pitch of the Cape.'! 
 
 Oct. 15th (Sunday). — A very large and distinct ring was ob- 
 served around the sun to-day, which, according to an old sailor's 
 yarn, foretells a heavy gale of wind. 
 
 Oct. 16th. — We have been rolling and drifting about for the last 
 two days, making scarcely any headway. Finally, at sunset, we 
 
THE "tail of a cyclone'' 137 
 
 got up steam and started to cover the remaining four hundred 
 miles between us and Cape Town. 
 
 Oct. 17th-18th. — These days were passed in steaming on a very 
 short allowance of coal, so that at 8 p. m. on the 18th we were still 
 one hundred and ninety-three miles from our immediate destina- 
 tion. 
 
 Oct. 19th. — Last night we had all the indications of a strong 
 gale eastward of us ; sea very rough and the barometer very low, 
 but during the morning watch the " tail of the cyclone " passed to 
 the north of us, thence to the west and finally to the south; conse- 
 quently we just escaped it, although we could almost see it. 
 
 To-day we passed fourteen vessels, all homeward bound, under 
 full sail on the wind. A great number of whales and albatrosses 
 in sight. 
 
 Oct. 20th. — At daybreak this morning, land was discovered just 
 ahead, distant about twenty miles. It proved to be the Cape of 
 Good Hope. We got up steam and went at full' speed in order to 
 make port, as it was blowing very hard from the northeast. Steamed 
 by the Cape about 9 a. m. and then up False Bay for an anchorage. 
 At 11 A. M. took aboard a pilot and at noon came to anchor in 
 Simon's Bay, off the town, and moored ship. As soon as we had 
 anchored we were visited by two English naval officers from the 
 authorities with the usual tenders of assistance, etc. Saluted the 
 English ensign at the fore with twenty-one guns, which were re- 
 turned by the fort on shore, gun for gun. 
 
 Simon's Bay is the English naval station and the winter quarters 
 for all vessels stopping at the Cape during the winter season. The 
 town is very small, situated on the beach at the foot of high moun- 
 tains, and in all respects it resembles, from the anchorage, the 
 town of Port Grande, Gape de Verdes. And as the principal busi- 
 ness is to supply shipping, I do not think that there is anything of 
 interest in the town. 
 
 Our consul at Cape Town, Mr. Graham, came over as soon as 
 we were telegraphed coming in, and the vice-consul from the shore. 
 There is very little shipping in port, the only one of interest being 
 the late Confederate cruiser Tuscaloosa, which has been here for 
 over two years, but now lying as a mere hulk with no flag or owner. 
 One or two letters came on board to some of the officers, in answer 
 to some sent from Rio when we first arrived there. We have had 
 a very pleasant and quick run of thirty days from Rio de Janeiro 
 
138 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE 
 
 and have only experienced one severe gale during the whole pas- 
 sage. The Wyoming sailed from here for Macao last August, she 
 having left home nearly three months after we had sailed and is 
 now, in all probability, on the Asiatic station — so much for linger- 
 ing in different ports. We expect to remain here about one week , 
 but time will tell if we get off in that time. 
 
 Oct. 21st. — Frequent showers of rain all day, so that we were 
 unable to paint the ship outside, consequently she must look very 
 dirty until the first of next week. 
 
 Oct. 22d (Sunday). — I went ashore this morning and attended 
 service in the English church, and must acknowledge that it is the 
 first Sabbath that has at all resembled our Sabbaths at home that 
 we have 'had since leaving the United States. 
 
 Before returning to the ship we took a walk over the town, which 
 was accomplished in about half an hour. The town is composed of 
 about two thousand inhabitants of English and German descent 
 and a few natives; all speaking the English language. There is 
 only one street in the place, which faces the bay. There are no 
 places of interest except the Royal Navy Yard and hospital, both 
 of which are on a small scale in proportion to the place. The 
 houses are low, mostly of one story, and are either white or yellow 
 washed and made a neat appearance from the anchorage. Be- 
 hind the town are high, rocky and barren hills which would not pay 
 for the trouble of ascending them, and like the town, they appear 
 to better advantage from the ship's quarter deck. 
 
 Oct. 23d. — Busy all day in painting the ship outside. Several 
 English officers visited the ship to-day. 
 
 Oct. 24th. — Busy all day coaling from a hulk and at 5 p. m. was 
 obliged to cast her off on account of the wind, which was blowing 
 very hard from the southeast, thus raising a heavy sea. The 
 English troop ship Valorous practiced at target firing with her 
 broadside guns. On the whole she made a very poor showing, 
 considering that she has been out three and a half years, so that 
 her crew ought to be well drilled in everything. 
 
 Oct. 25th. — Spent all day coaling; that is, between the rain 
 squalls. Last night it blew very hard from the southeast, with 
 quick and very bright lightning. We were obliged to get up and 
 bend the sheet anchor chains and get the anchor ready for letting 
 go ; but fortunately we had no occasion for using it. Took a short 
 walk on shore this evening between the showers. Our men, when 
 
TABLE BAT 139 
 
 not at work coaling, were engaged most of the day fishing. I 
 never saw a better place to fish than this bay. 
 
 Oct. 26th. — Finished coaling ship to-day, taking in one hundred 
 and seventy-two tons. Busy the rest of the time cleaning up. 
 
 Oct. 27th. — During the morning we got up steam under both 
 boilers, unmoored ship and made preparations for getting under 
 way. At 10 a. m. we went ahead, stood out of Simon's Bay and 
 in an hour we rounded the Cape of Good Hope, running close in to 
 the land all the way. At 4 p. m. we came to anchor in Table Bay, 
 off the city of Cape Town, and moored ship. 
 
 The anchor was no sooner down than we had a swarm of bum- 
 boats and washermen around the ship with recommendations, etc., 
 seeking permission to come on board. Saluted the English flag 
 with twenty-one guns, which were returned by the Castle with 
 twenty-one guns. The city of Cape Town makes a very fine ap- 
 pearance from the anchorage, it being situated on low land at the 
 base of Table Mountain and Devil's Peak and around the shores 
 of a pretty little bay. As the spring is rather advanced now and 
 •consequently there is comparatively good weather, the harbor is 
 livelier on account of shipping, which now come here instead of 
 to Simon's Bay. But we are the only man of war in port at present. 
 We will lay in supplies here for our next run to the East Indies. 
 
 Oct. 28th. — I went ashore in the morning and took a ramble 
 about the town, visiting all the places of interest, and then rode out 
 on the favorite drive around the " Lion," which is a mountain sit- 
 uated between Table Mountain and the sea. I was very much 
 pleased with the city, it being well laid out and very neat and 
 clean — ^but thoroughly English in everything. 
 
 Oct. 29th. — To-day the ship was full of visitors, ladies and 
 gentlemen from the shore, come to see a Yankee ship — ^as they 
 used to visit Confederate cruisers while refitting here; but now, 
 of course, they entertain far different opinions in regard to us 
 Northerners. It was beautiful weather all day, but toward even- 
 ing Table Mountain spread its "table cloth," which among the 
 natives means a change of weather for the worse. 
 
 Oct. 30th-31st. — Busy on these two days in cleaning up ship 
 generally and in scraping gun carriages preparatory to staining 
 them. 
 
 Nov. 1st. — In the morning I called upon the oflBcers of the Eng- 
 lish sloop of war Valorous. I found them, like all Englishmen, 
 
140 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE 
 
 greatly changed in their feelings toward the North since the close 
 of the war. At six o'clock the Valorous got under way and went 
 to sea, bound to some port on the east coast of the colony. In 
 passing the Wachusett her band played "Hail Golumbia" and 
 dipped her colors, which of course we answered. During the war 
 she would not have done as she did to-day. We had several vis- 
 itors off from the shore to-day and they too were sympathizers 
 with the South during the war, but now, of course, they are totally 
 changed. 
 
 Nov. 2d. — At 9 A. M. I sent forty of our men ashore on liberty, 
 just to let this English town be full of Yankee sailors once more; 
 which may, no doubt, be quite unpleasant to the Confederate 
 sympathizers. 
 
 Nov, 3d. — Busy most of the day in "hogging" the ship so as to 
 get the seaweed off her bottom, where it had grown quite thick and 
 impairs her speed. Went on shore and visited the Botanical 
 Gardens, the famous Breakwater and then went through all the 
 apartments of the convict prison, besides riding over the city. 
 Spent a very pleasant and instructive day. 
 
 Nov. 4th. — The Wachusett was full of visitors all day. It 
 seemed as if everybody from shore had a holiday and the Wa- 
 chusett was the rendezvous. 
 
 Nov. 5th. — This being Sunday the ship was again crowded with 
 visitors. I went on shore in the evening to church and heard an 
 excellent sermon. 
 
 Nov. 6th. — Started for the country with Pegram at 8 a. m. 
 Took the cars for the town of Wellington, distant sixty miles, ar- 
 riving there at 11 A. M. Spent the remainder of the day in ex- 
 amining the town and in the evening called on some ladies. The 
 next morning, at daylight, we took a cart and started out, crossed 
 the Worcester Mountains and arrived at Fanny's or Darling 
 Bridge, distant from Wellington about twenty-two miles. It was 
 raining hard all the time and consequently we were much dis- 
 gusted, and when we arrived at Fanny's we concluded to return 
 to the ship as soon as possible. We had intended to go as far at 
 least as Ceres and then spend a day or two in shooting about that 
 place, but the vreather being so unfavorable we could not enjoy it 
 and returned in three days. In crossing Bain's Kloof we would 
 have seen some of the most magnificent and grandest scenery in 
 theworldjbut on account of the fog and clouds we could not see a 
 
LODGE "dE GOODE HOOP" 141 
 
 quarter of an inch ahead of us. On the whole have had a dis- 
 agreeable time. Returned Wednesday evening in time to attend 
 a ball given by our Consul in "Honor of the Wachusett." Had a 
 very pleasant time. 
 
 [For the first time there is a skip in the dating of Philip's diary. 
 It would be unkind to infer that it was the result of the "very 
 pleasant time " he had at the ball, but the fact that his next entry 
 is dated November 9th is unfortunate. — E. S. M.!] 
 
 Nov. 9th. — Blowing a gale of wind from the southeast. Nearly 
 all the officers and two boat-crews are still on shore, unable to get 
 off to the ship. I came off in a pull boat about daylight this 
 morning and am consequently obliged to remain on board, as the 
 other officers are on shore. Two English mail steamers came in 
 from sea to-day, bringing rumors of war between France and the 
 United States. 
 
 Nov. 10th. — Went ashore in the evening to attend a meeting 
 of the Masonic lodge " de Goode Hoop." Two of our officers were 
 initiated in the mysteries of the order. 
 
 Nov. 11th. — I was on shore nearly all day on business and 
 pleasure combined. 
 
 Nov. I2th. — After the usual Sunday inspection and services, the 
 burial service was read over the body of Edward Ryan, an excellent 
 sailor, a native of Massachusetts, who died on the 10th. His body 
 was buried on shore. I went on shore in the evening to attend 
 service in the EngUsh church. 
 
 Nov. 13th. — Ship again crowded with visitors. In the evening 
 I went on shore and saw two more of our officers initiated in the 
 Masonic lodge. 
 
 Nov. 14th. — Went on shore in the morning and attended the 
 Gape Agricultural Fair. Of course it could not compare with 
 those we have at home, yet it certainly was creditable for an Eng- 
 lish colony. In the evening the officers of the Wachitsett met all 
 the American residents at a dinner party at the residence of a Mr. 
 Holmes from Massachusetts. 
 
 Nov. 15th. — ^At 10 A. M. the long expected flagship Hartford 
 came in and anchored, bearing the flag of Rear- Admiral Bell. As 
 she was steaming in we saluted his flag with thirteen guns, she 
 answering with seven. 
 
 In the evening we had a ball aboard the Wachiisett, given by 
 the wardroom officers to our friends on shore. The ship was decor- 
 
142 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE 
 
 ated with English and American colors, besides signal flags, and 
 was nicely illuminated. All seemed to enjoy themselves and 
 everything passed off finely. 
 
 Nov. 16th. — Busy in cleaning up the ship again and partially 
 making ready to get under way, for since the Admiral has arrived 
 there seems to be a prospect of the Wachusett getting on her station, 
 for the Admiral is in an awful hurry to get us on our way. 
 
 Nov. 17th. — This is one of the most beautiful days we have had 
 since we arrived in Cape Town. The Valorous gave a ball on 
 board this afternoon, but as there was some misunderstanding 
 about the invitations none of our officers attended, much to the 
 disappointment of both parties. In the evening v/e went on shore 
 to a fete in the gardens. All the trees were finely illuminated and 
 the grounds were densely crowded with people. Having two large 
 bands of music playing in different parts of the grounds and being 
 in company with some charming friends we managed to spend a 
 very pleasant evening for the Cape. 
 
 Nov. 18th. — Went on shore, took a drive and called upon sev- 
 eral friends and had a "jolly time," as the English say. In the 
 evening went to the Masonic lodge and saw nine of the Hartford's 
 officers initiated. 
 
 Nov. 19th (Sunday). — I went on shore to attend church service 
 with some friends. In the evening I went aboard the Hartford. 
 
 Nov. 20th. — ^All the officers in the Hartford and Wachusett who 
 could be spared from duty, went on a picnic out in the country. 
 It was given by Captain Holmes and there were about seventy-five 
 persons present. 
 
 Nov. 21st. — We had more visitors to-day than at any time since 
 our being in Cape Town. They, like all the rest, seemed to take 
 a fancy to the Wachusett and of course we aU enjoyed it. 
 
 I went on shore in the evening to say good-bye to some friends. 
 Although spending a very pleasant evening 1 was sorry to be 
 obliged to say adieu so soon; for we all have been treated exceed- 
 ingly well since our short stay in this place and of course regret to 
 sail so soon. 
 
 Nov. 22d. — Beautiful weather all day, the water as smooth as 
 a pond. This morning the orders came on board to go to sea at 
 daylight in company with the Hartford. Consequently we were 
 busy all day in unmooring ship and in making preparations for 
 getting under way. 
 
A MASONIC DINNER 143 
 
 At noon went on shore vdth a cutter and brought on board, for 
 the last time, some lady friends. Spent a good portion of the 
 afternoon in enjoyment, grief, etc., on board, and after visiting 
 the Hartford with them for a few minute*, we returned on shore 
 and were then obliged to bid them adieu, perhaps forever. 
 
 We are now about leaving Gape Town, and there is more regret 
 expressed and felt by the officers than there was in leaving any 
 port that we have visited, not even excepting Boston in March last. 
 We have met more friends and have been better treated since being 
 in Gape Town (and consequently enjoyed ourselves more) than 
 could ever have been expected, and better than any foreign man 
 of war that has ever anchored in Table Bay. 
 
 In the evening I went on shore and attended a Masonic dinner 
 given to the Masons on board the Hartford and Wachtisett (twenty- 
 two) by the Good Hope lodge. Of course there were the usual 
 after dinner speeches, complimentary and national toasts. On 
 the whole it was quite a jolly affair and a great compliment to 
 us. I shall always remember 6ape Town and our pleasant stay 
 there. 
 
 Nov. 23d. — At 4 A. M. we started fires under both boilers and 
 got up steam. At 6.30 a. m. called "all hands up anchor" and 
 got under way in obedience to Signal from the Hartford. We both 
 steamed out of Table Bay southward and the flagship made signal 
 to follow her motions. As soon as we were outside of the harbor 
 we had a strong breeze from the west and both ships made sail. 
 We stopped the engines and hauled fires. As long as we were 
 steaming we could with ease run past the Hartford, but as soon 
 as sail was made she generally left us astern and by 3 p. m. she 
 was out of sight ahead of us. 
 
 The Hartford is very fast under sail and consequently we could 
 not keep company with her, so we must make the passage to Ba- 
 tavia alone; our orders being to make the best of our way to that 
 port, but in company with the flagship if possible. Blowing very 
 hard from the west all day, with quite a high and irregular sea. 
 At 3 p. M. we lost sight of the Cape of Good Hope, our ship standing 
 south in order to get into the higher latitude and fall in with the 
 westerly winds to carry us across the south Indian Ocean to the 
 coast of Australia. We are all exceedingly sorry to leave Gape 
 Town, for all have had a very pleasant time there. 
 
 Nov. 24th-25th. — On these two days we experienced very heavy 
 
144 CAPE or GOOD HOPE 
 
 winds with frequent rain squalls, the ship rolling very deep and 
 taking in large quantities of water. 
 
 Nov. 26th. — At 4 p. m. the water became very much discolored, 
 a light green, as if we were on a bank. Took in the studding sails, 
 hove-to and on heaving the " deep sea " lead found no bottom with 
 one hundred and twenty fathoms (seven hundred and twenty feet) 
 of line. Filled away again and stood on our course and in about 
 half an hour the water was of the original color, deep sea blue, so 
 that we have, apparently, crossed over this shoal. The cause of 
 the discoloration is unknown, unless it might have been whale 
 feed at some distance below the surface. 
 
 Nov. 27th. — A heavy gale came up, with increasing sea. The 
 captain, thinking it better to run out of the gale than to lie-to until 
 it passed us, kept the ship off to the west by north and by eight 
 o'clock in the evening the wind had so much decreased that we 
 were able to turn the reefs out of the topsails and set the topgallant 
 sails again, and resume our course eastward. Thus by running 
 back only four hours we are again in fine weather, whereas, if we 
 had continued on our course we might have experienced a severe 
 gale of a day or so, and have been extremely uncomfortable in the 
 bargain. 
 
 Nov. 28th. — Wind and sea more moderate, although the weather 
 was quite cool and cloudy, yet to-day was one of the best we have 
 had since leaving the-Gape. Shifted the sailing trim of the ship 
 by bringing her more by the stern, in hopes of getting more speed 
 out of her. 
 
 Nov. 29th. — Weather fine all day, but the wind gradually hauled 
 abeam until the ship was heading north, when we wore ship to the 
 southeast. After she was around she would make higher than 
 southeast, so one can see that the Wachusett is no ship to work to 
 windward under sail alone. 
 
 Nov. 30th. — The barometer has been falling all day and there is 
 every sign of bad weather to-night. We are one week out of port 
 to-day, and strange as it may appear to navy officers, pleasant re- 
 membrances of our stay in Cape Town are still uppermost in our 
 minds. 
 
 Dec. 1st. — Last evening there was every indication of bad 
 weather and I think that the night turned out to be one of the 
 strangest I have ever experienced. The barometer was falling 
 continually until it reached 29.50, the lowest we had had on this 
 
HEAVY WEATHER 145 
 
 cruise. There was little or no wind until 4 a. m. and the atmos- 
 phere was very rare, although it was raining furiously and every- 
 thing could be heard distinctly. In fact, it seemed like one vast 
 sounding board. It could only be accounted for by supposing 
 the ship to be in the center of a cyclone, or nearly so, and being 
 carried along with it at a slow rate until four o'clock, when we 
 hauled more to the north and in a very short time we had a strong 
 breeze from the west, which we have been running before all day. 
 At 8 p. M. the barometer began to rise again, but slowly. 
 
 Dec. 2d. — Fine weather all day. To-day we held a summary 
 court martial on one of the men for theft, but they were unable to 
 prove it against him. This, I think, is the first case of a summary 
 court in the service not being able to convict the person tried. 
 
 Dec. 3d (Sunday). — A new species of seagull appeared around the 
 ship. It was a dark lead color and had the shape of an albatross, 
 but was a little smaller. 
 
 Dec. 4th. — At 11.30 last night we carried away the fore topsail 
 in the slings; it blowing quite hard at the time. Secured the wreck, 
 unbent the sail and sent it down with the wreck of the yard to the 
 deck. Blowing almost a gale all night and day and was obliged to 
 batten down the hatches, as we were shipping heavy seas. Very 
 fortunately for us we brought a spare topsail jrard with us from 
 Boston, else we would have been in a sad condition to make the 
 passage to Batavia, still distant five thousand miles. Busy aU day 
 repairing damages. 
 
 Dec. 5th. — This morning sent aloft and crossed the topsail yard, 
 bent the sail and then made all plain sail. Attempted to exercise 
 the crew at the great guns, but owing to a slight roll on the ship we 
 came near losing the 100-pounder rifles overboard, besides injuring 
 the deck seriously. I secured the battery and came to the con- 
 clusion that those guns were exercised for the last time at sea. 
 
 Dec. 6th. — Pleasant breeze and smooth sea all day and having 
 nothing particular to do we decided to enjoy ourselves to the ut- 
 most, which, of course, we tried to do. 
 
 Dec. 7th. — Weather continues fine, but to-night we have indi- 
 cations of an approaching gale, or wet and bad weather. 
 
 Dec. 8th. — StiU another day of fresh westerly winds, but there 
 has been a very heavy swell from the southwest, which caused the 
 ship to roll frightfully, making everything exceedingly uncom- 
 fortable on board. A thick fog rested on the sea at intervals all 
 
146 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE 
 
 day, and we have indications of a strong gale blowing some dis- 
 tance to the south of us. 
 
 Dec. 9th. — It has been rather hazy and misty at intervals aU 
 day, with a fresh breeze from the westward, but a very heavy swell 
 still from the southwest. 
 
 Dec. 10th (Sunday). — To-day we were again favored with a 
 very strong, steady breeze from the northwest, but it was impos- 
 sible to get more than eight knots out of the old ship under all plain 
 sail. The barometer is very low to-night and continues falUng 
 rapidly; 2.9.70. Perhaps bad weather is in store for us. 
 
 Dec. 11th. — This has been one of the disagreeable days at sea. 
 Two kinds may be mentioned: one when it blows a gale of wind, 
 and the other a rainy calm. We have had the latter all day. 
 
 Dec. 12th. — The wind sprang up during the midwatch last 
 night and blew quite fresh from the southwest until midday, when 
 it again died out, and it has been calm the remainder of the day. 
 
 Dec. 13th. — About daybreak the wind sprang up and has con- 
 tinued to blow, increasing in force all day, until to-night it blows 
 quite hard. Barometer lowandfallingall the time; sea increasing. 
 
 Dec. 14th. — The greater portion of this day I consider as having 
 been thrown away, for in the last twenty-four hours we have had a 
 very heavy wind from the northwest and instead of running down 
 our longitude at ten knots per hour we have been fooling away our 
 time by the road. The barometer was lower than we have had it 
 since leaving Boston. 
 
 Dec. 15th. — At eight o'clock this evening we passed the meridian 
 of the Island of St. Paul, which, by our orders, we were to sight, 
 but the wind having favored us of late we passed about two hun- 
 dred miles to the north of it. 
 
 Dec. 17th. — Yesterday there was a school of whales quite near 
 the ship, and to-day we had another kind of a school. Porpoises 
 came so near to us that one of the forecastle men succeeded in 
 spearing one and getting him on board. This incident, and the 
 losing of one of our monkeys overboard, rather broke the monot- 
 ony of our voyage. 
 
 Dec. 19th. — Yesterday passed without any incident of note. 
 To-day, at noon, we are two thousand one hundred miles from 
 Batavia, and this afternoon we exchanged colors with two large 
 ships, one English and one Danish, apparently bound for India. 
 These are the first sails we have seen since we left the Cape. Now 
 
A CHRISTMAS AT SEA 147 
 
 we may expect to see vessels every day, for we are nearly in the 
 track of vessels bound for China. 
 
 Dec. 20th-21st. — Little of note these days, except that this after- 
 noon my pet monkey, "Little Jack," was frightened overboard 
 and lost. I was verj'' sorry about it, for he was a great pet with 
 everybody and has been on board ever since we arrived at the 
 Cape de Verdes. I intended to have brought him home to the 
 Gatskills. 
 
 Dec. 22d. — To-day two whales are very near the ship, one very 
 large and the other small, evidently a cow and a calf. We did not 
 molest them. 
 
 Dec. 24th. — Aside from being laid up with violent cramps there 
 was nothing to break the monotony of the cruise yesterday. To- 
 night being Christmas eve, we are trying to have a jolly time, as 
 well as we can at this distance from civilization. One year ago 
 to-night I was in the monitor Montauk. She was then on the ad- 
 vance picket line in front of Charleston, S. C, between Sumter and 
 Moultrie. Where will we spend Christmas, 1866. [In a foot 
 note Phihp records that it was spent in Hong Kong. — E. S. M.] 
 
 Dec. 25th (Christmas). — Raining quite hard all day; calm until 
 1 P.M., when the wind came out quite fresh from the southeast and 
 blew steady and hard from that quarter the remainder of the 
 day — a heavy swell setting in from the southwest. 
 
 This has been rather a dull Christmas, but we did the best we 
 could to spend it agreeably. Of course the dinner was the prin- 
 cipal object of the day. This makes the tenth consecutive Christ- 
 mas I have spent away from home. When will I spend Christmas 
 at home again? 
 
 Dec. 26th-27th. — These two days were spent in battling with 
 strong, dangerous winds, all the ordinary routine being suspended 
 on that account. 
 
 Dec. 28th. — At midnight we "beat to general quarters" for 
 exercise as if engaged in action. The crew did very well consid- 
 ering that it was the first " night quarters " we have ever had on 
 board, the ship being ready for action in every particular inside 
 of six minutes from the first alarm of the drum. 
 
 Dec. 29th-30th. — As we are now within "thinking distance" of 
 our port, we spent these two days in making preparations for 
 entering port. 
 
 Dec. 31st (Sunday). — Since we left Boston, we have been one 
 
148 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE 
 
 hundred and forty-five days at sea and have sailed nineteen thou- 
 sand two hundred and sixty-seven knots, or about twenty-three 
 thousand one hundred and eighteen miles, and are now on the 
 three hundred and second day of the cruise. 
 
 Jan. 1st. — As it was calm all day, I celebrated New Year's Day 
 by lowering the dingey and with Pegram and Paymaster Sears, 
 pulled a short distance from the ship, and went in swimming — 
 for a bath in the middle of the Indian Ocean. 
 
 Jan. 2d-3d. — Very hot and uncomfortable these two days. 
 
 Jan. 4th-6th. — These three days spent in making preparations 
 for entering port. 
 
 Jan. 7th. — Nothing to break the monotony of man of war life 
 to-day. Having it calm for the last ten days it is especially irk- 
 some when we are so near our port. It has a tendency to make us 
 growl considerably. One year ago to-day I arrived at home after 
 an absence of three years on blockade duty; mostly off Charleston. ' 
 
 Jan. 9th. — Yesterday we were only one hundred miles from Java 
 Head and were delayed bj'^ unfavorable winds. To-day we got up 
 steam under one boiler and started ahead under steam. 
 
 Jan. 10th. — Very dark and squally last night, so that we were 
 not certain of our position. At 10 p. m., supposing our position 
 to be about ten miles from Java Head, we stopped engines and 
 hove-to. At daylight we found ourselves in the mouth of the 
 Straits of Sunda. Got up steam and went ahead up the straits 
 along the coast of Java. Running ahead all day under low steam. 
 
 Passed Anjer Lighthouse about 3 p. m., when a small native 
 bumboat, laden with fruit, chickens, etc., came alongside. We 
 gave it a line and in a short time the officers had bought them 
 completely out. After a passage of forty-nine days at sea, tropical 
 fruit becomes a great luxury at the different messes, and one can 
 imagine how we enjoyed the contents of this bumboat after this 
 voyage on almost low diet. 
 
 At 10 p. M., it being very dark and thick, with heavy thunder 
 and lightning, we came to anchor in nineteen fathoms (one hundred 
 and fourteen feet) of water in a bay about forty-four miles from 
 the anchorage off Batavia. The Straits of Sunda are quite nar- 
 row (very deep water), and have beautiful scenery on each side. 
 The largest islands, of course, are Sumatra and Java, but there is 
 a large number of smaller ones situated between these two, all 
 having high mountainous peaks from two thousand to twelve 
 
BEATTTIFUL SCENERY 149 
 
 thousand seven hundred feet high, covered with dense forests, 
 but near their bases or along the shore they seem to be in a high 
 state of cultivation, and apparently quite civilized, judging from 
 their appeareance. We passed a large number of merchant ves- 
 sels. I think that to-night is the darkest night that I have ever 
 experienced, either at sea or on shore. 
 
 (Philip's Journal Continued in XVII.) 
 
CHAPTER XV 
 
 A chaplain's recollections op PHILIP. 
 
 David Howard Tnbou 
 
 MY acquaintance with Rear-Admiral Philip began 
 in 1877, at Hampton Roads, Va., when he was a 
 commander in command of the U. S. S. Adams 
 and I was attached to the flagship Hartford. At his re- 
 quest I frequently held divine service on board the Adams 
 Sunday afternoons, and he was a constant attendant. 
 After a sermon one day he asked me to give him a list of 
 passages in the Bible bearing on the meaning of the 
 word "perish." I was much impressed by his serious 
 manner at the time and never forgot it, although I think 
 he did not remember the circumstance. 
 
 He went to the Pacific and I did not see him again till 
 he came to Philadelphia, in 1891, as inspector of the 
 armored cruiser New York. When she went into com- 
 mission I was ordered to join her and had the rare priv- 
 ilege of serving under his command until his detachment 
 in August, 1894. For some time after joining the ship 
 he was somewhat reserved in his manner, as it seemed to 
 me, and while he always Ustened to my suggestions and, 
 so far as I can now remember, generally approved them, 
 he was very slow to suggest anything. He did not like 
 the service to be too short and he once said to me, 
 "Chaplain, don't you think it would do those young fel- 
 lows good if you read more Scripture to them?" I took 
 the hint (even then I knew him well enough to know that 
 
Mrs. John Woodward Philip. 
 (From a recent photograph.) 
 
Philip's democracy 151 
 
 I had better) and the services were lengthened in con- 
 sequence. 
 
 We held two services on Sunday, "whenever the 
 weather and other circumstances would permit," and 
 he was always in attendance when he was on board. We 
 also had a Christian Endeavor Society, which met on 
 Wednesday evenings, and he was always on hand. He 
 consented to his election as vice-president, but he never 
 spoke at any meeting. He would sometimes select 
 something which he wished me to read to the society — 
 usually some clipping from a newspaper — and I noticed 
 that he had a quick eye for everything bearing on the 
 subject of prayer. 
 
 Although the New York was fitted for a flagship, she 
 had no admiral tmtil just before Captain Philip was 
 detached. He quite took away my breath one day on 
 the passage to Rio Janeiro, by asking me to occupy the 
 admiral's stateroom. My room in -the wardroom was 
 immediately over three condensers and was exceedingly 
 hot when the ship was imder way, but I entered a iruld 
 demurrer against a wardroom officer occupying the 
 cabin. He looked at me a moment and came the near- 
 est to rebuking me that he ever did when he said, "See 
 here, chaplain, if I hadn't wanted you to occupy that 
 room, I shouldn't have asked you." I have sometimes 
 thought that, even at that time, he was conscious of 
 physical infirmities and preferred not to be too far away 
 from help in case of need; but he said nothing more, and 
 I moved into the cabin. 
 
 It was rather an anomalous position and I was not 
 altogether at ease in it, but I kept very quiet, still re- 
 tained my room below, and had very little of my belong- 
 ings where he could see them. We saw very httle more 
 of each other than if I were living below, but, of course, 
 
152 A chaplain's recollection of PHILIP 
 
 he knew I was near him and he saw me passing in and 
 out. He made it very easy for me, although I do not 
 now recall that he ever came into the stateroom I was 
 occupying while I was there. We were frequently 
 brought together ia the discharge of our official duties, 
 but there have been very few commanding officers with 
 whom I ever sailed whom I visited less. 
 
 I remember one day we had a mail, after some con- 
 siderable interruption of oiu- postal arrangements, and 
 he had a large file of New York papers. I went into the 
 cabia from the deck (not through the door leading from 
 the admiral's cabia) to get a look at the papers. He 
 nodded as I came in and I picked up a journal and began 
 to read. Presently he rang his bell for the orderly and 
 said, in my presence, "Orderly, I don't want anybody 
 ia the cabin now!" I think he had entirety forgotten 
 that I was present, for I never knew him to say anything 
 hke that before, but I lost no time in retreating to the 
 wardroom. 
 
 We sailed for Rio Janeiro the day after Christmas, 
 1893, on account of the revolution there, and arrived at 
 St. Lucia, where we were to coal, on Sunday morning. 
 This beiag an EngHsh port, aU business is suspended on 
 the Sabbath, but we as were ordered to proceed to Rio 
 with all dispatch, it was not long before the coal was 
 coming on board as rapidly as if it were a secular day. 
 There was no service that day, and I beUeve it was the 
 only day when we did not have service at least once on 
 Sunday during the time he was in command. 
 
 There was one Sunday when we had service only once. 
 I shall never forget it. It was just after Rear-Admiral 
 Benham informed Da Gama that American merchant 
 vessels would go where they pleased in the harbor of Rio, 
 so long as they did not interfere with the military move- 
 
THE DA GAMA EPISODE AT RIO 153 
 
 ments then taking place. Da Gama had repUed that he 
 was in possession of the harbor, and Benham had in- 
 formed him that that was a matter that could easily be 
 settled the next day. I had gone on deck to ask the 
 officer of the deck for permission to hold the regular 
 evening service. I found him at the port gangway, and 
 the captain just comiug up the ladder. As Phihp stepped 
 on deck he said, "Clear ship for action; we're going to 
 clean out those fellows (pointing to Da Gama's ships) at 
 daybreak." His face was wreathed in smiles and he was 
 as impatient as a boy to see the work begin. There was 
 nothing said about service, for in less time than it takes 
 to tell it, the boatswain's mates were piping " clear ship 
 for action." 
 
 There was a gun in the captain's stateroom which 
 required some overhauling and it was nearly midnight 
 when he turned in. I don't think he slept much, for he 
 was on deck as soon as the day broke, and remained there 
 till the rebels acknowledged that the Americans had the 
 freedom of the harbor. He had craved the privilege of 
 attacking Da Gama's ship, which was the most formid- 
 able of all. 
 
 There was a great deal of yellow fever in Rio at the 
 time, and it was specially bad among the shipping. As 
 I had spent considerable time there, was thoroughly ac- 
 climated, and knew the place well, I was sent ashore on 
 duty several times; the Admiral, who had the San 
 Francisco for his flagship, giving our captain permission 
 to send me if he thought it was safe. There were always 
 errands to do for officers who were not permitted to go 
 ashore, but I do not remember that Captain Philip ever 
 asked me to do an errand. He was one of the most un- 
 selfish men I ever knew, and more than willing to give up 
 his own comforts for the benefit of those less fortunate 
 
154 A chaplain's recollection of PHILIP 
 
 than himself. We never discussed religious subjects 
 except in the abstract, and rarely at all. 
 
 I remember one morning, when we were on our way 
 from New York to Gloucester, I met Philip near his 
 cabin door and he motioned to me to follow him. As I 
 stepped inside he said: "Chaplain, I know you don't be- 
 lieve in prayer, but I want to tell you what happened to 
 me this morning." That was "Jack" Philip all over. 
 I understood him perfectly. What he meant was that 
 I did not beheve in special providences to the same ex- 
 tent that he did. Then he told me of standing on the 
 end of the forward bridge, in a thick, cold fog of an early 
 morning, and putting up a silent prayer which was an- 
 swered within five minutes. He asked me what I had 
 to say to that, and I rephed that God speaks to men per- 
 sonally, and they to whom He speaks are the only ones 
 competent to vouch for the message. 
 
 He had a well-worn Bible on his desk and I know he 
 was a devout reader of it, but I never saw him reading it, 
 and I have no doubt that he laid it aside whenever any one 
 came into the cabin. He did not wear his heart on his 
 sleeve. 
 
 As for "speaking in meeting," as he caUed it, that was 
 quite beyond him. He told me once of an experience 
 he had in some interior town in New York. It was his 
 custom to attend a weekly prayer-meeting whenever it 
 was possible, and one evening he found himself, with six 
 ladies, in a chapel waiting for the minister. When he 
 came, a hymn was sung, a lesson of Scripture read, 
 prayer was offered and, in aimouncing the second hymn, 
 the minister said: "After the singing of this hymn we 
 wiU listen to a few remarks from the stranger who has 
 come in with us." I do not know just the form of words 
 Philip used in dechning, but in relating the story he said 
 
AS A DISPENSER OF JUSTICE 155 
 
 he looked up with the most intense surprise and huskily 
 rephed: "Not much!" "Not much; you won't?" 
 
 There was a small boy in the ship's company who was 
 mischief itself. Among the pets of the New York was 
 a Brazilian pig which the men named "Da Gama." 
 One day this young rascal haled one of the big, burly 
 boatswain's mates to the mast and reported him for 
 abusing the pig. Now cruelty to animals is so utterly 
 unknown among sailors that the captain was disposed to 
 laugh, so he said to the boy : " Is that pig any relation to 
 you?" "No," rephed the young reprobate, "but that 
 pig's got feehngs just the same as you have!" This was 
 too much for Captain PhiUp and he dismissed the case, f^i 
 
 At another time a man came to the mast to complain 
 that he was kept in the fourth class in conduct. His 
 reputation was bad, but he wanted to know the reason 
 why he was forever kept in that class. Phihp looked at 
 him an instant and then said: "Well, I think you ought 
 to know, and so I'U teU you. It's only because there is 
 no fifth class." 
 
 One day a nimiber of the officers were invited to make 
 an exclusion by rail from Kingston, Jamaica, to the 
 terminus of the railroad, some distance toward the 
 mountains. Phihp said to me: "See here, chaplain, 
 I'm going to take my coxswain and one of the gig's crew 
 along; nominaUy to carry the lunch, but reaUy so that 
 they can enjoy the trip with us. You don't suppose 
 anybody wiU object, do you?" I might have reminded 
 him that it was not considered good form for junior 
 officers to object to anything their commanding officer 
 proposed to do, but instead, I rephed that the thought 
 did him credit, and I was glad it had occurred to him. 
 
 When this same young coxswain subsequently de- 
 serted (carrying away the treasury of the Christian En- 
 
156 A chaplain's recollection op PHILIP 
 
 deavor Society) Philip said to me: "After all we did 
 for that fellow, think of it !" But he said nothing more 
 and, so far as I know, made no special effort to have 
 him arrested. 
 

CHAPTER XVI 
 
 A LIFE-LONG FRIENDSHIP 
 
 Rear-Admiral Henry Clay Taylor, U. S. N. 
 
 MY knowledge of Admiral Philip began in 1861. 
 The war with the South having broken out, 
 our studies at the Naval Academy at Annapolis 
 became somewhat disordered, and the young midship- 
 men had to care for themselves during the troublous 
 days of April, 1861. 
 
 I had entered the Academy a few months before and 
 with my class had been quartered during the winter 
 aboard the old Constitution, where we messed and swung 
 our hammocks on her historic old decks. 
 
 Presently Confederate troops appeared in the vi- 
 cinity; and after several night alarms, when we young- 
 sters turned out and mustered on deck to defend the 
 old ship, we were removed to the shore and quartered 
 in the buildings occupied by the upper classes. Here 
 I found myseK, quite by chance, under the immediate 
 charge of Jack Philip. He was one of the first class, 
 counting among its members Sampson, as leading mid- 
 shipman or cadet officer, and Lloyd Phenix, as second in 
 rank and standing. Already Jack Phihp's name had 
 become known as second to none as a seaman, and above 
 all in popularity and the warm affection of his com- 
 rades. Philip was the second captain of the gun's crew 
 to which I was assigned, the first captain being an officer 
 of good character and standing, but over conscientious 
 
158 A LIFE-LONG FRIENDSHIP 
 
 and relentlessly religious; qualities which made him 
 morose and exacting, and more feared than loved by 
 the midshipmen under his orders. 
 
 Philip, knowing these traits in the man, gathered me, 
 a green youngster, under his especial care; warned me 
 of the peculiar prejudices I would encounter, and how I 
 should behave to avoid trouble with him. 
 
 Philip's attitude toward me, as soon as he saw that I 
 was young and green, was that of a kindly elder brother 
 from whom was due the protection and sympathy I 
 needed. 
 
 The memory of those few days of excitement and con- 
 fusion, with my seat at mess next to his, of his advice as 
 to keeping my arms ready during the night to answer 
 the alarms of attack, of his humorous warnings about 
 the first captain with his melancholy glance seeking for 
 misdemeanor to report, though Philip never inculcated 
 by word or act any disrespect for his senior; the memory 
 of these times, I say, will dwell long with me. They were 
 stirring days. War with all its grimness of visage was 
 upon us. Fleets of transports anchored in the bay. 
 Regiments camped under the shadow of our buildings. 
 We ourselves, young as we were, slept but broken sleep 
 between the calls to arms. 
 
 Against this changeful and fleeting backgroimd some 
 faces stand out prominently: among the oflB.cers Lieu- 
 tenant George Rodgers, who later was killed in battle 
 off Charleston — and who, rising to the moment's need, 
 became still more our commander and friend — and among 
 the midshipmen Jack Philip, hearty and mirthful and 
 brimming over with that love for his fellow man, that 
 sacred pity for all that suffered or were weak which 
 seems)-tofexist only in the largest and most beautiful 
 
 .t^^< 
 
 natures. II llu^^ 
 
 ir! ' 
 
"go 'way, dago, go 'way" 159 
 
 As the war cloud settled down over the land we sepa- 
 rated, and I saw nothing of him during the four years of 
 conflict, I remaining two years at the Naval Academy 
 and being ordered to squadrons at a distance from him 
 when I graduated. 
 
 We met again in 1868 and 1869, Philip as navigator 
 of the Richmond and I of the Guard. Our ships laid long 
 in Lisbon, and we made many trips together in that 
 picturesque vicinity. Once we went to a point on the 
 banks of the Tagus opposite Lisbon for the purpose of 
 taking observations of the sun to rate our chronometers. 
 He would mark the time for me while I took the sights,' 
 and we would then reverse, I marking the time for him. 
 
 There were some workmen near by engaged in exca- 
 vating a dock: one or two of them came to us and in 
 their patois said something very earnestly. Neither of 
 us understood them, and were besides much engrossed 
 with our observations. A few moments later another 
 deputation of the workmen approached, and with some 
 solemnity of visage and much ejaculation and gesticula- 
 tion jabbered at us. 
 
 Jack, who had his eye at his sextant in the midst of a 
 series of sights, carried on a running commentary: "Go 
 'way. Dago, go 'way. Dago (Mark, Harry: did you get 
 it that time?), go 'way, Dago (Mark, Harry)." Finally 
 om- interviewers drew away with solemn shrugs of protest, 
 and just as Jack and I had finished our series of sights a 
 tremendous explosion occurred in an excavation near by, 
 almost shaking us into the Tagus; and a moment after- 
 ward the rubbish which the blast had thrown skyward 
 began raining down on us in the shape of dirt, pebbles 
 and rocks up to the size of a coal scuttle. In the midst 
 of the infernal din, and while the danger was really 
 imminent. Jack's wild laugh rang out as he called me: 
 
160 A LIFE-LONG FRIENDSHIP 
 
 "Watch the Dagoes' faces, Harry!" The Dagoes evi- 
 dently thought us crazy, and were astonished that we 
 were not more alarmed at the explosion. 
 
 Thirty years later he said almost the same words to 
 me, this time through a megaphone. He had been 
 engaging the Socapa batteries at Santiago with his ship, 
 the Texas, and I coming on the scene in the Indiana, 
 having been away engaged in convojdng General Shafter's 
 army to Santiago, was ordered to join in the action. 
 We had been engaged briskly for some time, and finally 
 in obedience to signal from the flagship had hauled out 
 of range, Philip with one man killed and several wounded, 
 and I with my starboard bow-plate crushed in by a 
 Spanish shell, which exploded under my bow. 
 
 I turned to go back to my station to the eastward, and 
 passing near the Texas, Philip, with that same thoughf ul- 
 ness ever natural to him, called through the megaphone : 
 "Watch those Dagoes as you go back, Harry!" — ^for he 
 knew, as I did not, that abreast the entrance was an area 
 upon which the Spanish guns were directed and ready to 
 fire. 
 
 After our experience in I^isbon, and a visit, long and 
 happily remembered, to Cintra, where we spent a day 
 together among its crags and castles, another term of 
 years elapsed before we were again together, this time 
 in the Pacific. 
 
 Philip's name as a seaman, administrator and manager 
 had continued to grow more and more widely known, 
 untU, after a cruise in China waters, he was asked by the 
 chiefs of the Pacific MaU Steamship Companj' to take 
 command of one of their finest vessels which plied between 
 San Francisco and China. The offer came at a time when 
 our Navy was at its dullest, but when Philip was in the 
 prime of his activity. He added many laurels to his 
 
BEGINNING OF THE SPANISH WAB 161 
 
 professional reputation by his command of this vessel, 
 and secured, what at first seemed hopeless to all his Navy 
 friends, the loyal friendship and affection of the Pacific 
 Mail captains and officers, many of whom he superseded 
 by taking a command in that company^ ^ 
 
 During those years I was busy in sur\'^eying work on 
 the coasts of California and Oregon, and Philip was 
 equally engrossed with his occupations; so that our inter- 
 course was much interrupted, and our chats brief and of 
 rare occurrence. He was then much in China, and his 
 talk to me when we met in San Francisco dwelt often on 
 our mutual friend there, Lieutenant-Commander Douglas 
 Cassell, whom we both greatly admired. There had 
 existed then for many years a warm regard among us, 
 and we both looked upon Cassell as the coming man in 
 the Far East, who was to stand to the Japanese in their 
 development as Gordon had done to China shortly before. 
 
 This was not to be, and Jack and I were soon after 
 called upon to mourn the death of this gallant fellow and 
 loyal friend. 
 
 Again we drifted apart, and had only occasional meet- 
 ings, or exchanged letters on rare occasions, this condi- 
 tion extending over a period of twenty years, 1877 to 
 1897. In the latter year, or in the beginning of '98, we 
 found ourselves in the same squadron, Philip command- 
 ing the Texas and I the Indiana. We had proceeded 
 southward to the Gulf of Mexico under the broad flag of 
 Admiral Sicard, and were lying with the rest of the fleet 
 in the Dry Tortugas. I had been away on a few weeks' 
 leave, and had just had a kindly message from Jack upon 
 my return. We were all, of course, watching intently 
 the progress of affairs in Cuba. We felt that a point had 
 been reached in the increasing strain and friction between 
 the United States and Spain, where it was easier and 
 
162 A LIFE-LONG FRIENDSHIP 
 
 probably wiser to fight than to continue making faces 
 at each other. I felt this strongly, while PhiUp, though 
 not believing that we ought to fight, had little doubt 
 that we would do so at an early day. 
 
 Suddenly at daylight a torpedo boat entering the harbor 
 at full speed, gave the Admiral news that the Maine had 
 been blown up and lost, with most of her people. 
 
 Then came a council of captains, called by the Admiral 
 aboard the flagship, and as a result of the conference, 
 the New York and I mm went to Key West, leaving the 
 Texas, Captain Philip; the MassarhusetU, Captain Hig- 
 ginson, and the Indiana, Captain Taylor, to guard 
 Tortugas, keep ready for war and watch for Spanish 
 torpedo boats. 
 
 Here again we saw each other constantly for the best 
 part of two months, and so closely were we thrown 
 together that Philip named us the "Tortugas Trio." 
 Here, too, I relearned my old friend, finding his religious 
 faith burning mth a steady fervor, while his kindly and 
 benevolent humanity had mellowed with his growth, 
 and tinctured all his life and actions with its noble essence. 
 
 From this time on until his death we were never long 
 separated. He took the Texas north to join the Flying 
 Squadron, while I remained south with the Indiana, 
 but we soon met again, and were together on the blockade 
 of Santiago. 
 
 His ship and mine divided the nights between us as 
 guard ships, lying close in to the entrance alongside of 
 the searchUght ships. As I steamed up night after 
 night to relieve him in the darkness, it was rare that some 
 kindly, humorous or even affectionate word did not come 
 from him through the megaphone, as he dropped back 
 with his ship to the blockading line. 
 
 Of the climax of the war, and our fighting side by side 
 
AT THE BROOKLYN NAVY YARD 163 
 
 against Cervera in the great battle that concluded the 
 war I need not speak, for his noble conduct there is 
 already well known and graphically described. Follow- 
 ing the war I served under his broad flag during the period 
 that he relieved Sampson in command of the fleet, and 
 later had the pleasure, while lying in the Indiana at the 
 Brooklyn Navy Yard, to welcome him upon his arrival 
 there to take command of the station in the winter of 
 1898-1899. 
 
 Still later I came again under his kindly authority when 
 ordered to the command of the receiving ship Vermont, 
 at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, in March, 1899, and from 
 that time until his death on the 30th of June, our friendly 
 intercourse was resumed, and I was a daily witness of 
 his worthy life, dedicated to warm friendship, earnest and 
 cheerful religion, and devoted affection toward those to 
 whom he was attached by ties of love or duty. 
 
 With our dim recognition of God's purpose, we cannot 
 refrain from grief at his loss and that he should be taken 
 from so many whose lives were strengthened and en- 
 nobled by his lofty example. 
 
CHAPTER XVII 
 
 CRUISING IN THE EAST INDIES 
 
 WE left the Wachusett at anchor some forty-four 
 miles from Batavia after a fairly good run of 
 forty-nine days from Cape Town. As this 
 was Philip's first visit to the Far East, he was quick to 
 note and comment on the new scenes, strange customs 
 and odd habits of people who had the bad taste to live 
 on the other side of the world from Kinderhook, and 
 he freely expressed his opinion of them and their 
 doings in that free and easy manner that was so char- 
 acteristic of the man and which makes all his writings 
 so readable. 
 
 Philip's journal of a chuisb 
 
 (Continued from Page 149) 
 
 Jan. 11th, 1866 (Batavia). — At daylight this morning we got 
 under way and steamed down the straits to Batavia, anchoring off 
 the city at 1 p. m. After mooring ship and being visited by the 
 Dutch authorities, we saluted the Dutch flag with twenty-one 
 guns and the Dutch admiral with thirteen, which were duly re- 
 returned. No sooner was the anchor down than the ship was 
 surrounded with bumboats having all kind of fruit, etc., for sale, 
 and the everlasting ship chandlers with their "letters of recom- 
 mendation," desiring the patronage of this ship for their establish- 
 ments on shore. 
 
 The natives here are about the same as those in the other ports 
 at which we touched. The most that can be said of them is that 
 they, also, are in search of the everlasting dollar — those on shore 
 may have other characteristics. 
 
BATAVIA 165 
 
 We have at last arrived at Batavia after a passage of fifty days 
 from Cape Town. The Hartford sailed when we did and arrived 
 here on the 28th of December and sailed again for Hong Kong last 
 Saturday, January 6th, thus beating the Wachusett about fourteen 
 days in the passage. She steamed and we sailed all the 
 way. 
 
 Jan. 12th. — Very hot all day, the thermometer being 93 in the 
 shade. Busy on board ship in cleaning up and settling down to 
 "port routine." The United States Consul, Mr. Tappan, of Massa- 
 chusetts, visited the ship. Saluted him with seven guns when he 
 left. 
 
 I went on shore and visited the city. Batavia is the chief city 
 of Java, situated at the mouth of a river, and is the capital of the 
 Dutch possessions in the East. It has a population of about 
 one hundred and sixty thousand inhabitants, consisting of Euro- 
 peans, Chinese, Moors, Arabs, and aborigines; and of this number 
 only about three thousand are Europeans. The city itself lies 
 about six miles back from the bay and is approached by boats 
 through a canal, and then you take carriages and drive — but 
 never walk. 
 
 It is built in the old Dutch style, the buildings are aU one story 
 high and raised a little from the ground. The streets are quite 
 regularly laid out and are intersected by canals, navigable only 
 by small boats. The city is very beautiful, the streets being nicely 
 shaded by trees on each side and are very clean, except in the 
 Chinese districts. The business part of the city is nearest to the 
 bay, while the residences are to the back. All of the Europeans, 
 and some of the wealthiest natives, have beautiful residences on 
 the outskirts, while some live in fine bungalows nearer their places 
 of business. The city contains many places of interest to Europeans 
 visiting it for the first time. 
 
 In the evening everybody rides out in carriages of different 
 styles. In fact, the pleasantest time to be ashore is in the evening, 
 the middle of the day being so excessively hot and all persons, 
 except those at business, are shut up in the shade, "not at home,'' 
 etc., to strangers. In the evening we went to the opera. 
 
 I have never visited a place where everything is so dear (except 
 fruits, etc.), although it is reported that Batavia is a free port. 
 In the city each of the different classes of inhabitants retain their 
 own national characteristics, customs, dress, etc. 
 
166 CEUISING IN THE EAST INDIES 
 
 Jan. 13th. — Remained on board to superintend some little work, 
 but most of the officers went on shore, as usual in a foreign port. 
 
 Jan. 14th (Sunday). — After service went on shore and drove all 
 over the city. In the evening went to the King's Square to hear 
 the Dutch military band play and called upon the Consul. This 
 day is kept by all the Europeans in a style suitable to the place; 
 that is, all of their places of business are closed, but none of them 
 attended divine service at any church; the Chinese and natives 
 observed the day only by dressing a little better, and as some of the 
 establishments are closed, they consider it their best day for doing 
 business. 
 
 Some of the Chinese and native temples are magnificent and are 
 quite a sight for strangers visiting the city. The natives are per- 
 fectly harmless and inoffensive, but the Dutch hold them under 
 strict control and vigilance. Washington is called a city of mag- 
 nificent distances, but it cannot begin to compare with Batavia 
 for distances about the city. Here a pair of shoes can easily be 
 dispensed with, but it would be impossible to get along without a 
 horse. 
 
 Jan. 15th. — This morning we examined the mate of the American 
 merchant ship George Green to see if he was competent to take her 
 home to New York. 
 
 Jan. 16th. — The distance to the city is too great and the ride too 
 tedious for our officers to go up every day, so I remained on board 
 to-day. 
 
 Jan. 17th. — Went on shore for a few hours to do a little "shop- 
 ping," and purchased a few articles for the ship on account of 
 Uncle Sam, but it was too hot to remain long. Began taking in 
 provisions for sea use. 
 
 Jan. 19th. — Went on board and secured the passage of a pound 
 of coffee by the George Green for New York, to be forwarded thence 
 to Catskill. 
 
 Jan. 21st. — Our acting chaplain not being on board to-day we 
 did not have the usual reading of divine service by the surgeon. 
 But in other respects everything passed off as usual. 
 
 Jan. 22d. — Raining furiously all the morning. I had made 
 preparations for coaling ship, but on account of the rain we could 
 not leave the anchorage. But at 3 p. m. it cleared up and a Dutch 
 naval officer came on board to pilot us to the coal depot. Got 
 under way and steamed to their naval station, and made fast along- 
 
AMONG DANGEROUS SHOALS 167 
 
 side of a wharf on the island of Kniper to coal ship in the morning. 
 Kniper is the Dutch naval coal depot and is adjacent to and con- 
 nected by bridge with the island of Onrust, which latter is their 
 chief naval station for all their possessions in the East. 
 
 The Dutch authorities are exceedingly kind and obliging to the 
 representatives of Uncle Sam, although a few short months ago 
 they were ardent admirers of the Confederacy; but doing no 
 material harm to the Government. This, of course, is not for- 
 gotten. Like the English, they appear very sorry and humble for 
 the part they acted in the late war. 
 
 Jan. 23d. — Busy coaling ship until noon, when we cast off from 
 the coaling wharf and returned to our anchorage in Batavia Bay. 
 
 Jan. 24th. — Sent in the boats to-day and finished getting in 
 stores. These should have been aboard a week ago and we at sea. 
 Our captain returned to-day much improved in health by his trip 
 into the country. 
 
 Jan. 25th-26th. — The usual routine on these two days. The 
 French mail steamer arrived to-day with letters for the Hartford 
 and Wyoming, but none for the Wachusett. It seems that fate in 
 regard to our mail is still against us. 
 
 Jan. 27th. — At last finished up all business with Batavia, and 
 being ready for sea we got up steam at 1 p. m., and at five o'clock 
 in the afternoon we got under way and steamed out of the harbor, 
 bound for Hong Kong; but I think that the Captain will stop at 
 some of the islands between this and China. All the ofiicers appear 
 to be glad that we have at last left Batavia, for it is a very poor 
 place to be at. 
 
 Jan. 28th (Sunday). — Steaming all day across the Java Sea, the 
 water as smooth as a mill pond. At 2 p. m. sighted land ahead, 
 and at eight o'clock in the evening we anchored in the mouth of 
 the straits off the island of Billiton in order to wait for daylight, 
 it being dangerous to run through the straits at night on account 
 of so many coral reefs and shoals. 
 
 Jan. 29th. — At daylight we got under way, and, favored with fine 
 weather and a smooth sea, steamed on our course, running through 
 the Gasper Strait along the coast of Billiton Island, with numerous 
 small islands around us. At 2 p. m. we cleared the straits, and for 
 the first time the Wachusett entered the China Sea, whither she has 
 been bound ever since the first of last March. We are now running 
 for the coast of Borneo. 
 
168 CRUISING IN THE EAST INDIES 
 
 Jan. Slst. — Steaming all day along the coast of Borneo with 
 several small islands in sight and near us. To-night we are running 
 through the Api Passage on the northwest coast of Borneo. Sea 
 perfectly smooth, it being calm and very hot all day. 
 
 Feb. 1st. — While we were steaming along the northwest coast 
 of Borneo to-day with a perfectly smooth sea, I saw something on 
 the horizon which appeared like a wreck of some kind. We ran 
 down to it, and, lowering a cutter, examined it. It proved to be a 
 detached portion of a "floating island" which must have floated 
 out from a near-by river. 
 
 Feb. 2d. — Although we are still steaming along the coast of 
 Borneo, we were for the most part of the time to-day out of sight 
 of land. There was a large number of water snakes near the ship 
 all day, varying in size from one to six or eight feet in length. 
 
 Feb. 4th (Sunday). — At daylight we were off the island of Labuan, 
 another English possession, and, the Captain wishing to see it, we 
 stopped the engines and remained there two or three hours. At 
 eight o'clock this evening we are only twenty-eight miles from 
 Ambong, Borneo. 
 
 Feb. 5th. — At midnight last night, having run up our distance, 
 we came to anchor off the entrance to the harbor of Ambong to 
 wait for daylight. At 8 a. m. we got under way and steamed into 
 Ambong Bay and came to anchor at the upper end. 
 
 The object of this expedition was to meet a Yankee by the name 
 of Moses, who, so it was reported at Batavia, had been acknowledged 
 by the Sultan of Borneo and had received a grant of land in this 
 region with the title of " Rajah of Ambong." If this had been the 
 case it might have been of some benefit to the United States later 
 on. It was the Captain's intention to come in and communicate 
 with the Mr. Moses and report fully to the Secretary of the Navy. 
 But it will be impossible now to do this, simply because there is 
 no Moses here and we could not find a single native we could com- 
 municate with. 
 
 The bay is a beautiful roadstead, having a good anchorage, with 
 plenty of water for the ships. We could see nothing from the ship 
 except wild vegetation and very thick forests close to the water, 
 with no signs of life anywhere about. 
 
 After having been anchored a short time, a single canoe with nine 
 natives in it pulled out from the shore and came alongside. They 
 showed great curiosity as to who and what we were, but we could 
 
IN THE PALAWAN PASSAGE 169 
 
 not understand a word they said, so after looking at the ship out- 
 side and in they quietly left and returned to the shore, apparently 
 satisfied. 
 
 The natives here look like the natives of Java and are in rather 
 a wild state. Any European is perfectly safe, so long as he faces 
 them, but allow them to get behind you and they will murder you 
 for the sake of your clothing; so that with these cowardly natives 
 one must be armed and on his guard while on shore. 
 
 Several of our officers went on shore, and after great diflSculty 
 succeeded in landing and finding a sort of a footpath through 
 the forest of palms and cocoanuts, etc., and after a time found the 
 village of Ambong. This is a native village of about fifty small 
 bamboo huts, the inhabitants being in very primitive costume. 
 From the anchorage the only object of interest is a high mountain 
 which towers almost fourteen thousand feet above the level of the sea. 
 
 As the object of this expedition has not been accomplished, I 
 think that we will now go to Manila, on the island of Luzon. 
 
 Feb. 6th. — At eight o'clock we fired a couple of heavy guns (for 
 moral effect on the natives) and, getting under way, steamed out 
 of the harbor to sea, bound for Manila via the Palawan passage. 
 The northeast monsoon was blowing very fresh all day, so that we 
 made little progress against it. 
 
 Feb. 7th. — The northeast monsoon blowing very fresh and dead 
 ahead. Unfortunately we are burning only ten tons of coal a day, 
 so we are not making much progress on our course. The island 
 of Balabec is in sight. 
 
 Feb. 8th. — We are steaming up the Palawan Passage, but are 
 making little headway, as the monsoon and a considerable sea are 
 against us. We are four hundred miles from Manila, and have only 
 sixty tons of coal on board to make that distance. It begins to 
 look like the old Montevideo scrape of last June, when we were 
 compelled to put into St. Catharine for relief. 
 
 Feb. 9th. — Having the monsoon and a heavy sea against us all 
 day, we made very little progress through the Palawan Passage. 
 This evening we had a very heavy rain squall with increased wind. 
 
 Feb. 10th. — Wind and sea still against us and we are making 
 little progress. We were obliged to stop the engines for a couple 
 of hours to make repairs and when we did start up again we were 
 obliged to run slower. 
 
 Philip's Journal continued in Chapter XIX 
 
CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 PHILIP AS AN IDEAL OFFICER 
 
 Captain Daniel Delehanty, U. S. N. (Retired) 
 
 IT has been my honor and pleasure to have served 
 twice under Rear-Admiral John W. Philip, while 
 he was in the grade of Captain; each time as his 
 executive officer: in the Independence and in the Texas. 
 In my long and close relationship with him in the Inde- 
 pendence I learned to know him, to love and honor him 
 officially and socially, and I longed to serve under him 
 again in a sea-going ship. 
 
 In the light of the events which followed I recall with 
 especial gratification that it was through my earnest 
 solicitation that he applied for the command of the Texas. 
 He was at that time, 1897, pleasantly located in the 
 Boston Navy Yard as Captain of the Yard. The Texas 
 had just arrived to participate in the centennial celebra- 
 tion of the launching of the Constitution, and a change 
 in the commanding officer was to be made. I sent a 
 note to Captain Philip inviting him to come on board 
 the following day and he came, accompanied by Mrs. 
 PhiUp. 
 
 The Texas was then known as a "hoodoo" ship, but 
 most of the officers who served in her held a far different 
 opinion of her, and it was my task to prove to him that 
 her reputation could be retrieved. The following even- 
 ing I dined with the Captain in his home, when we renewed 
 our discussion of the subject, and he finally concluded to 
 
HOW THE " TEXAS" EEDEEMED HER NAME 171 
 
 make application to the Navy Department for the duty, 
 to which the Department promptly and favorably re- 
 sponded. This was fortunate for all concerned, our 
 country, our Navy, and especially so for the fame of Cap- 
 tain Phihp, which now illuminates the history of our 
 glorious navy. 
 
 We all know how nobly the old Texas redeemed her 
 name under him. It was once a by-word of derision, but 
 now, both in and out of the navy, it is mentioned only with 
 respect and admiration. 
 
 Such an achievement brings honor and reputation to a 
 man only within the Navy, for it cannot be fully appre- 
 ciated or discerned by the layman. The transition is 
 brought about quietly, almost imperceptibly, and the 
 secret of accomplishing it lies altogether in the command- 
 ing officer being in complete correspondence with Ms 
 environment. He must know his officers and crew, and 
 to mn their respect he must be just and honorable and 
 fearless, and he must infuse into them his owti spirit and 
 a pride and glory in the ship, that she may become not 
 only the peer of any of her class but just a peg the superior. 
 In order to command the confidence of those under him 
 he must be, first of aU, a seaman — ^there is a sharp dis- 
 tinction between a seaman and a sailor; everybody on 
 board is a sailor, down to the cooks and coal heavers. 
 Captain John W. Philip was a seaman in the best sense 
 of the word. He possessed all the qualifications of a true 
 naval officer, and his presence was felt and reflected in the 
 high efficiency of the ships he commanded. 
 
 Every officer who has ever served under him I am 
 sure will freely testify to the pleasure and professional 
 profit it was to do duty with him; the same may be said 
 of every member of his ship's company, from the highest 
 to the lowest. He was at all times most courteous and 
 
172 PHILIP AS AN IDEAL OFFICER 
 
 considerate of those about him, always regardful of their 
 personal comfort and contentment. He inspired not only 
 the love but the respect of aU his subordinates, for while 
 he was gentle and most unassuming, he was at the same 
 time a strict disciplinarian. He was always sajdng kindly 
 things, but when the necessity arose he could administer 
 a rebuke that would leave a lasting impression and in a 
 way wholly unique, leaving absolutely no irritation, but 
 a feeling that the offender was guilty, without any pallia- 
 tion of his guilt. I cannot better illustrate his way of 
 doing it than to relate an instance which I had from his 
 own lips. 
 
 While in command of a ship, he had as his executive 
 an able and popular officer, who was prone, however, 
 to assume authority and responsibilities which belonged 
 not to him but to the commanding officer. This officer 
 had offended in this way on several occasions, which 
 Captain Phihp allowed to pass apparently unnoticed. 
 Finally he said to him one day: "Mr. Blank, will you let 
 me see your orders to this ship?" "Certainly, Captain, 
 do you mean the Navy Department's order to me to 
 report here for duty?" "Yes." Mr. Blank went below 
 for his orders and brought them to the Captain, who pre- 
 tended to read them very carefully, and handing them 
 back, said: "I thought I was right; you were ordered 
 to this ship as executive officer, and that I was the only one 
 ordered to command." It is needless to say that tliis 
 reproof was not lost on Mr. Blank, and I can add that it 
 increased his respect and affection for his Captain, for he 
 was an officer who would not have brooked an attempt 
 on the part of his subordinates to assume authority 
 superior to his own, yet he probably would not have had 
 the nice tact to correct the offence in such a way. 
 
 A prominent trait of the Admirars character was his 
 
Philip's tact 173 
 
 keen sense of humor, many anecdotes of which are very 
 familiar to the service. 
 
 Speaking to me one day last spring, of the annoyance 
 to which a commandant of a Navy Yard is subject, he 
 said: "I had a delegation of women from some society 
 in Brooklyn call on me this afternoon in relation to the 
 condition of the Navy Yard sidewalks. One of the party 
 said, ' Now, Admiral, we have called to see if you cannot 
 keep the sidewalks in better condition, and not so lum- 
 bered up as to compel visitors to walk in the streets. We 
 are going to Washington and will see the Secretary of 
 the Navy about it unless you correct the evU.' I said, 
 'NoWj ladies, please step to the window and you will see 
 one, two, three, four buildings being erected. We are 
 anxious to have them finished and so are the contractors, 
 and they have brought all their material here and have 
 piled it up on the sidewalks instead of blocking the streets. 
 I rather think they showed more consideration for horses 
 and trucks than they did for visitors, and you may tell 
 that to the Secretary and say to him if he will order it to 
 be done I will have all the stuff removed and deposited 
 in the Brooklyn streets. This will teach these contractors 
 a lesson they will be apt to remember.'" It was hardly 
 possible to have reproved more gently these meddlesome 
 women. 
 
 The Admiral did not marry until late in life. Some- 
 where in the '80's he was in command of the Ranger, 
 surveying the coast of Lower California, with head- 
 quarters at San Francisco. Most of the Ranger's officers 
 were married men, who had their wives and families in 
 San Francisco, and every time the Ranger went to that 
 port all of these officers who were not required by the 
 regulations to remain on board, would stand ready at 
 the gang\^'ay to go ashore — dressed in their civilian's 
 
174 PHILIP AS AN IDEAL OFFICER 
 
 clothes — very quickly after the ship had come to anchor. 
 
 On one of these occasions Captain Philip was walking 
 the quarter-deck with the officer of the deck, and as a 
 boatload of officers pushed off from the ship he remarked 
 to his companion, " It spoils an officer of the ua,yy when 
 he gets married." It happened that on this visit of the 
 ship, which was one of some duration, the Captain met 
 his fate and promptly went over to the army of Bene- 
 dicts. 
 
 On the next visit of the ship to this port the Captain 
 was one of the eager group to get ashore as soon as the 
 anchor was down. It happened that the officer of the 
 deck was the same one to whom he had made this obser- 
 vation on the former visit, and as the Captain passed 
 over the side and reached the gangway ladder he turned 
 and saw the officer with a broad smile. Philip instantly 
 recalled the incident, stepped back on the deck, and 
 whispered in this officer's ear, "I haven't changed my 
 opinion." 
 
CHAPTER XIX 
 
 WHERE DEWEY WON FAME " 
 
 Philip's journal of a cruise 
 {Continued from Chapter XVII) 
 
 Feb. 11th (Sunday). — The monsoon was blowing fresh all day. 
 We are steaming past the island of Mindora close to the land. It 
 being quite clear this forenoon, we saw Mindora at a distance of 
 ninety-seven sea miles. 
 
 To-night we had the pleasure of seeing the eruption of two 
 volcanoes on the island of Luzon, distant about one hundred and 
 eighty miles from the ship — and that over the island of Mindora. 
 They being so far off we were not able to see them as distinctly as 
 some of us desired; yet we could distinctly trace the lava running 
 down the side of the mountain into the sea; also the two craters. 
 
 Feb. 12th. — During the night, as we were steaming along the 
 coast northward, we saw four other volcanoes, all active. The six 
 different ones presented a fine and grand appearance from the 
 ship. 
 
 At daylight we were off some small islands to the south of Manila 
 Bay. Got up steam under both boilers and started ahead with 
 " full power " in order to make the best of daylight. At four o 'clock 
 we passed the island of Corregidor at the entrance of Manila Bay 
 and steamed up for the anchorage off the city. At dark we came 
 to anchor about four miles from Manila to wait for daylight in order 
 to pick out a good anchorage nearer the city. 
 
 Three volcanoes in sight to-night to the south and east. 
 
 Feb. 13th. — At 9 a. m. we got under way and steamed up to the 
 city and moored ship as near in as possible. After being visited 
 by the authorities, we saluted the Spanish flag with twenty-one guns 
 and their admiral with thirteen, both salutes being duly returned. 
 The United States Consul, a Mr. Pearson of Albany, visited the 
 ship and was received with the usual salute of seven guns. We 
 
176 WHEBE DEWEY WON FAME 
 
 found only a few vessels in the harbor, three of the finest ones being 
 Yankee merchantmen; no foreign men-of-war. 
 
 Feb. 18th (Sunday). — Went on shore to-day and went all over 
 the city, and returned to the ship with a very poor opinion of 
 Manila. The city is on the banks of the river Pasig and is built 
 on the segment of a circle between the river and the sea. Its 
 suburbs extend over numerous islets formed by the Pasig and its 
 branches, and are reached in all parts by either carriages or boats; 
 but the former method of conveyance is the most aristocratic. 
 Behind the city are extensive plains which rise into hills and finally 
 into mountains several thousand feet high. 
 
 On the north side of the river is the suburb in which are the 
 residences of all Europeans and is by far the most aristocratic part. 
 The aspect of the whole is decidedly Spanish and Oriental. Long 
 lines of batteries, sombre churches and ungainly towers with narrow, 
 dirty streets meet the eye everywhere. In the suburbs are light, 
 airy cottages, raised on posts to permit the free passage of waters 
 in the rainy season; and they are so constructed as to be very 
 elastic so as to withstand the shock of earthquakes, to which Manila 
 is subject at intervals. 
 
 The streets generally are straight and unpaved, with bridges 
 across the river at intervals. The bridge that crosses the river in 
 the Binondo district comes on a street called the Escolta, which 
 street is lined with numberless bamboo shops and stalls where a 
 foreigner is able to find anything. The street is crowded with a 
 motley population of all races, Chinese, Portuguese, Indians and 
 half-breeds. 
 
 The pubUc buildings are the palaces of the Governor and Bishop, 
 the cathedral, town houses, churches of different denominations, 
 monasteries, convents, arsenal, prisons and cigar factories, etc. 
 There are several squares, the largest, the Prado, having a bronze 
 statue of Charles IV. 
 
 Manila, like many of these Oriental cities, is fast going to the 
 dogs. It is admirably fitted by nature for trade and if it were not 
 for her people and government it would shortly be one of the first 
 cities in the East as far as trade, etc., is concerned. Her chief 
 manufactures are Manila cordage, cigars, cheroots and the beautiful 
 fabrics called pinas, woven from the fibers of the pineapple leaf 
 and afterward beautifully embroidered, which bring a very high 
 price in the market. 
 
AT BAYONET POINT 177 
 
 The city has been destroyed several times by earthquakes, the 
 last being on June 3, 1863, which laid most of the city in ruins and 
 killed nearly five thousand people, i.e., including Chinese. 
 
 It now being Lent the city is unusually diill and stupid, the cele- 
 brated "Manila cock-fighting" being the only amusement the 
 people have. I am tired of Manila already and hope that the ship 
 may never be ordered here again — at least not until our supply of 
 cigars and cheeroots gives out, and then only for a very short time. 
 
 Feb. 19th. — The American merchant ship Enock Train of Boston 
 came in and anchored. 
 
 Went on shore to-day and visited the cigar and pinas factories, 
 and over the city generally. We had an Indian driver and I have 
 never had such a hard time " to get through a place " as we had in 
 making this Indian understand what we wanted. But on the 
 whole it caused a great deal of amusement for us and we enjoyed 
 it — much to the confusion of the poor driver. Saw nothing more 
 of interest but the common everyday life in Manila. 
 
 Very large fire occurred in one of the suburbs, burning down 
 about eight hundred bamboo huts. 
 
 Feb. 20th. — Went on shore in the morning for a walk. Although 
 it was exceedingly hot we walked over nearly aU of the city. Being 
 in plain citizen's clothing we found it to be an advantage whenever 
 we desired to purchase anything. But we were unable to enter a 
 great many public places without passes where our uniforms would 
 have been the cause of receiving some attention and politeness on 
 the part of the Spaniards. 
 
 One place we were put out at the point of the bayonet, we not 
 choosing to take an order from a stupid negro. 
 
 Feb. 25th (Sunday). — After the usual Sunday services I went 
 ashore and drove all over the city and in the evening we drove 
 out to the parade ground and heard the band play from 7 to 9 p. m. 
 Everybody here who can raise money enough to buy a carriage and 
 a pair of horses does so, and every evening they drive out until 
 about ten o'clock. Consequently all foreigners on visiting this 
 place for a short time get carriages and drive out on the fashionable 
 roads and will there meet all the society of Manila — which now, in 
 Lent, is all the amusement we can find. 
 
 Feb. 27th. — Busy to-day in making preparations for sea. 
 Bent all sail and unmoored ship and at eight o'clock got up steam 
 under the starboard boiler; the Captain returning to the ship last 
 
178 WHERE DEWEY WON FAME 
 
 night. Went on shore this evening for the last time and drove all 
 over the city and out through its suburbs. Had a very pleasant 
 time, although we saw nothing of interest. 
 
 Feb. 28th. — At daylight this morning we got under way and 
 steamed out of the bay bound for Hong Kong. It seems almost 
 impossible that we are at last on the home stretch of our passage; 
 especially after being almost a year in getting thus far. We have 
 two Americans on board as passengers for Hong Kong, they being 
 connected with an American trading firm in Manila. 
 
 Steaming slowly to the north under one boiler, we having broken 
 one of the cranks of the forward engine nearly off, so that it is 
 deemed unsafe to use full power on the engines. This may be tha 
 cause of sending the ship back to the United States shortly after 
 our arrival on the station. 
 
 Mar. 4th (Sunday). — We are steaming in slowly for the land, the 
 Captain not wishing to anchor in port until to-morrow. 
 
 In the straits we met a large number of Chinese junks, all armed, 
 one of them carrying six long 32-pounders. They are all undoubt- 
 edly pirates, when the favorable opportunity arrives for them to 
 plunder unarmed merchantmen or smaller junks; but with men-of- 
 war they are harmless traders or fishing vessels. 
 
 Mar. 5th. — At daylight we got under way and steamed up to 
 Hong Kong and anchored off the city. After being visited by the 
 proper authorities we saluted the English flag with twenty-one guns. 
 
 One year ago to-day we sailed from Boston for this place and it 
 is quite a coincidence that being one year on the way that we 
 should finally anchor on the same day that we sailed. During that 
 time we have sailed 22,484 sea miles (knots) and have been at sea 
 one hundred and seventy days and in port one hundred and ninety- 
 five days, and during the whole of that time none of the officers 
 ever received a letter or a word of news from home. Consequently 
 when we anchored a very large mail came on board with good and 
 bad news for us, which we of course were anxious to hear. There- 
 fore, we have spent most of the time on board in reading and 
 re-reading letters. 
 
 We found the Hartford at anchor here. We also heard strong 
 rumors of a positive war between the United States and England 
 and France. So far as the United States are concerned, I hope it 
 will be deferred until our political and economic matters are more 
 settled at home, but the navy is ready for it now. 
 
A LITTLE "party" IN THE HARTFORD 179 
 
 Mar. 6th. — Raining hard all day, making everything very dis- 
 agreeable on board. Busy all day in getting our reports, surveys, 
 requisitions, etc., for the Admiral. Sent an officer over to Macao 
 to find a missing mail for this ship. Mr. Pegram (ensign) resigned 
 to-day. By this the service loses a fine and excellent officer and the 
 officers of this ship lose a good messmate and an agreeable com- 
 panion and gentleman. We are all exceedingly sorry to have him 
 leave us. 
 
 Mar. 9th. — It was a little pleasanter to-day, so that we had the 
 usual routine of exercises, etc., but still it was very disagreeable 
 and quite cold. In the afternoon the Hartford's officers gave a 
 little party for the reunion of all Americans in Hong Kong, both 
 ashore and afloat. 
 
 Mar. 10th. — Made all preparations for coaling ship and after 
 being "out of order" nearly all day we finally concluded not to 
 coal until Monday (March 12th). While in this state the EngHsh 
 Admiral and General, with their staffs, visited the ship. We were 
 very sorry that they should have found the Wachusett in the con- 
 dition she was in. 
 
 Mar. 11th. — The mail steamer from the south arrived to-day 
 bringing us threatening news about war between the United 
 States and France over the Mexico expedition. 
 
 (Philip's Journal Continued in Chapter XXI) 
 
CHAPTER XX 
 
 A NOTE OF TBIUMPH IN HIS LIFE 
 
 Hon. Henry Brown Floyd Macfarland 
 (President Board of Commissioners, District of Colmnbia.) 
 
 I FIRST saw Admiral Philip on the day of the Dewey 
 naval parade at New York. I had a note of intro- 
 duction to him, and with his customary whole- 
 hearted hospitaUty he invited my wife and me to accom- 
 pany him in his navy-yard boat, at the head of the yacht 
 division of the marine procession. I was more gratified 
 by this opportimity to be with him than by anything 
 else in that interesting day. 
 
 The high spiritual character of Admiral PhiUp made 
 him seem to me greater than any of our other naval and 
 military heroes since Admiral Farragut, and I had looked 
 forward to meeting him with the most pleasurable 
 anticipations. He did not disappoint them. On the 
 contrary, he surpassed them. From the moment he re- 
 ceived us, that bright morning, on the porch of the beau- 
 tiful old house of the Commandant of the Brooklyn Navy 
 Yard, until he set us ashore at the Battery in the evening, 
 we saw him constantly. 
 
 His modesty, simplicity and courtesy were apparent 
 in the first half-hour. Later on we saw also the acuteness 
 of his mind, the keenness of his sense of humor, the quaint- 
 ness of his speech and his aboimding good spirits. He 
 was literally the life of the large party on the boat, and 
 made everybody feel thoroughly at home. We were all 
 
REGRET FOR HIGGINSOn's ILL-LUCK 181 
 
 interested to see how affectionately he was greeted by all 
 the ofl&cers of his own time, from Admiral Dewey down, 
 and how popular he evidently was with the men in the 
 Texas, and the other seamen who saw him that day. 
 
 At times things did not go right in the procession. 
 There were some annoying delays, but nothing seemed to 
 ruffle his good temper, and his thoughtfulness for others 
 was constantly apparent. Naturally, he had to hear a 
 good deal of praise for his noble conduct during and after 
 the battle of Santiago, and this seemed to be the only 
 thing that made him impatient, although he was not 
 displeased, but rather like an unspoiled child who does 
 not care to listen to what seems to him unnecessary talk 
 about his doings. He evaded efforts to make him talk 
 about the subject himself, although he was very frank 
 and exceedingly interesting when talking about the battle 
 of Santiago generally, and the naval campaign that led 
 up to it, and very emphatic in his praise of Admiral 
 Sampson's management of the blockade and preparation 
 for the battle. 
 
 The thing that sticks specially in my mind is his strong 
 expression of regret that Captain Higginson of the Massa- 
 chusetts, after waiting so long for the battle, and leaving 
 to coal at Guantanamo (only under protest and after 
 repeated orders) missed being in the fight. 
 
 The next day we saw Admiral Philip again riding in the 
 procession, and brought an expression of mingled em- 
 barrassment and amusement to his face by cheering hiTin 
 by name, with the hearty assistance of all the other people 
 on the stand as soon as they knew who he was. 
 
 Our mutual interest in the Young Men's Christian 
 Association, which furnished an agreeable topic in our 
 conversation, brought us together again in a visit to the 
 Naval Academy at Annapolis that I shall never forget. 
 
182 A NOTE OF TKIUMPH IN HIS LIFE 
 
 The Young Men's Christian Association of the Naval 
 Academy invited Admiral Philip to address its members 
 and the other naval cadets. Admiral Philip suggested 
 that I should be invited to speak at the same time, since 
 he would only make a brief address, and I was surprised 
 to receive an invitation from the Association with his 
 request that I accept it. Fortunately, I was able to go, ' 
 and I shall never cease to be grateful for the opportunity 
 of speaking with him to that audience. 
 
 The train arrangements made it necessary for us to be 
 in Annapolis Saturday evening, and I met Admiral 
 PhiUp again; first at the cadets' hop, which fell on that 
 night, where he was naturally the observed of all observ- 
 ers, and received admiring attentions. He was just the 
 same as when we had seen him in New York, and made 
 similar impressions. He confided to me that he wished 
 he could go away without making a speech to the "young 
 midshipmen," as he called them, but that he had come 
 because he felt he ought to come to encourage them to 
 build up an association as large as that at West Point, 
 and did not see how he could get out of it. But he was 
 cahn and cheerful, and seemed to enjoy himseK as much 
 as the yoimgest cadet in the hall. 
 
 We saw him at chapel the next morning, and accom- 
 panied him and Mrs. Philip to the house of the Com- 
 mandant of Cadets, where he met a number of naval 
 officers who were old friends. HaU humorously, haK 
 earnestly, in the intervals of much pleasant conversation, 
 he protested that he wished he could see any honorable 
 way out of his engagement to speak at the chapel in the 
 afternoon. But, of course, as he said, there was none, 
 and when the hour came for the meeting of the Association 
 he was ready, as he always was when the hour of duty 
 struck. 
 
SPEAKING IN PUBLIC 183 
 
 The announcement that Admiral Philip would speak 
 drew an imusual audience. Besides the cadets, who were 
 present in large numbers, most of the naval officers and 
 their families were present to hear what Admiral Philip 
 would say. After Cadet Charles S. Freeman, the fine 
 young President of the Association, had concluded the 
 opening exercises, he called upon Admiral Philip, who 
 had begun to show signs of nervousness, and who said to 
 me just before the caU came that he would rather face 
 cannon than that audience. 
 
 He told me afterward that it was always a severe ordeal 
 for him to have to make a speech, however short, in 
 public ; but that to speak of his personal rehgion before 
 so many of his old friends and comrades was the most 
 trying experience he had ever had, and that fighting in 
 battle was much easier work. Nothing showed me the 
 fineness and coiirage of the man better than the way he 
 behaved that day. Curiosity, rather than sympathy 
 with his position, doubtless animated a number of his 
 hearers, and he felt this strongly, together with the shrink- 
 ing we all feel from speaking on that theme before our 
 professional associates. 
 
 But those who saw him as he stood on the platform 
 reading his brief address from typewritten pages, which 
 shook silently in his hands, must have been indifferent 
 not to love and admire him. He spoke to the cadets, 
 primarily, of their duty to God, of the rewards of His 
 service and of the advantages of the Association, which 
 he urged them to build up; but all that he said made its 
 impression, as he intended, doubtless, on the older people 
 present. 
 
 When I attended his fxmeral in that same chapel, only 
 a few months later, some of those who heard him speak 
 were also present, and I felt that they, like myseK, must 
 
184 A NOTE OP TRIUMPH IN HIS LIFE 
 
 be thinking of him as he had stood there speaking of the 
 eternal verities. I am sure that no one who heard him 
 that day could forget what he said. After the service 
 and the handshaking was over, he was like a boy just out 
 of school. He seemed relieved, and glad that he had done 
 his duty, and that he would not have to do it in just the 
 same way soon again. 
 
 We saw him again at a friend's after dinner that even- 
 ing, and the next morning journeyed back with him and 
 wife as far as Odenton, where we parted with mutual 
 invitations to visit which could never be utihzed. 
 
 He refused absolutely to speak for the Yoxmg Men's 
 Christian Association in Washington, sajdng that he 
 would never dare to lift up his voice in public in the 
 national capital, where the President and so many great 
 men lived, and where there were so many orators. In- 
 deed, he seemed to have a dislike to be seen in Washington 
 lest he should be suspected of lobbying, or trying to get 
 some advantage in assignments to duty. " I never go to 
 Washington," he said, "except on ofl&cial business that 
 calls me there. I never stay over night, if I can help it, 
 and I always get out of the city as quickly as I can." 
 
 On the second anniversary of the battle of Santiago 
 I made my next visit to Annapolis. This time I met at 
 Odenton the car which brought from New York the 
 remains of Admiral Philip, accompanied by his family. 
 In the company of Secretary Long and a number of 
 prominent naval officers, I went with them first to the 
 chapelfand then to their last resting place on the crest 
 of the beautiful cemetery overlooking the Naval Academy 
 groimds. 
 
 It was a sorrowful afternoon, but a note of triumph 
 and of abiding joy ran all through it, like the note of 
 victory in Chopin's funeral march, so appropriately 
 
VICTORY IN DEATH 185 
 
 played by the Naval Academy band as the procession 
 marched through the grounds from the chapel to the 
 grave. To everyone but the members of his family the 
 dominant thought seemed to be that this "very perfect, 
 gentle knight," having fought a good fight, had finished 
 it with joy, and was now wearing a crown of victory, so 
 that, for the time being, the sense of loss was subordinate. 
 
CHAPTER XXI 
 
 VISITING CHINESE PORTS 
 Philip's journal of a cruise 
 (Continued from Chapter XIX) 
 
 Mar. 15th. (Hong Kong) — At 9 a. m. the flagship made signal 
 to get under way and follow her motions, which means to go to 
 Macao. Stood out of the harbor in the wake of the Hartford. 
 Very pleasant all day — in fact, it is the only pleasant day we have 
 had since being on the station. We are steaming along under 
 "one bell," as we were obliged to keep in the wake of the Hartford — 
 "one bell" for the Wachiisett being equal to "four bells" in the 
 Hartford. In making the passage we brought our compradores 
 and bumboatmen with us; the tailors and shoemakers are to 
 follow to-morrow. We are at anchor about six miles from Macao, 
 so I think that we will visit the shore but little. We found the old 
 storeship Relief quietly at anchor where she has been awaiting our 
 arrival for about a year. 
 
 Mar. 20th. — I went on shore to-day to see the place and spent 
 most of the time in going over the chief objects of interest. Macao 
 is built on a small peninsula, separated from the mainland by a 
 narrow and low sandy neck. It is the only Portuguese possession 
 in the East and it was given to them by the Chinese Emperor in 
 1586 for aid rendered the Chinese in suppressing pirates on the 
 coast. It contains a population of about fifty thousand, mostly 
 Chinese, there being only a few Europeans in the place and they 
 are nearly all Portuguese. It is the cleanest place, I think, that 
 I have ever visited; the streets, although most of them are narrow, 
 are swept regularly every day by coolies and the rubbish removed. 
 But the town being built on different hills it is quite inconvenient 
 to go about except in sedan chairs; there being no other con- 
 veyances. The only public buildings are the churches and one or 
 two places of Chinese worship, and the tomb of the celebrated 
 Gamoens. The house and cave in which it is said he wrote are still 
 standing and are in a good state of preservation. 
 
AT MACAO 187 
 
 The traveler is only obliged to give the poor Dago about a 
 dollar to gain admittance and to be shown all over the grounds 
 and gardens. The present governor of Macao is the best it has 
 ever had. He devotes his whole time to improving the place in 
 every respect; but because he does not return as much money 
 to Portugal as his predecessors did (instead of making the great 
 improvements in the city) the Government has recalled him and 
 will send some one who will make a better balance sheet for Por- 
 tugal. 
 
 The chief trade in this place is in coolies. The United States 
 has a storehouse here on shore for the East India Squadron. We 
 are anchored so far from the town, for the want of water, and it 
 takes so long to go in our "fast boat," pulled by Ghinese women, 
 that very few of the officers leave the ship. We do not use any 
 of the ship's boats here, but hire a Chinese sampan, which is called a 
 "fast boat," on account, I suppose, of being so very slow. We 
 use it for everything connected with the ship. 
 
 Mar. 22d. — Busy all day painting the ship inboard. To get 
 some of the men out of the way I sent fifty of the crew on liberty 
 to Macao, but the old Portuguese Governor, being afraid that they 
 would "take the place," requested that we would not allow them 
 to remain on shore over night. But his request came too late; 
 consequently our boys "have charge of Macao for this evening." 
 
 Mar. 25th (Sunday). — Raining and blowing hard all day, so that 
 the usual Sunday routine could not be carried out. To-day, 
 although being very disagreeable on board, we had the greatest 
 treat of the cruise in the shape of a genuine Yankee apple, a barrel 
 of which had just arrived from Boston, and had been sent to us 
 by a gentleman from Hong Kong. 
 
 Mar. 28th. — At one o'clock in the afternoon the Admiral, very 
 unexpectedly, came on board and held a general and thorough 
 inspection of the ship as to her efficiency. As we did not expect 
 him, nearly all the officers and a large number of the men were on 
 shore. Of the officers only the Captain, myself and an ensign 
 were on board, while fourteen officers were on shore, so that we 
 were little prepared for the ordeal. 
 
 The Admiral was on board four hours and a half inspecting and 
 exercising us, and considering the circumstances in which he caught 
 us, we passed a very creditable inspection and I think that he left 
 us well pleased. [Evidently the Admiral was well pleased with 
 
188 VISITING CHINESE POETS 
 
 Philip, for shortly afterward he ordered him to the Hartford as 
 executive officer. — E. S. M.] These are unnecessary annoyances 
 which we are obliged to witness twice a year, if in company with 
 the flagship, and which the Admiral delights in inflicting. 
 
 Mar. 30th. — It being Good Friday the Portuguese are having a 
 jolly time of it ashore. All the foreign ships in the roads wear 
 their flags at half-mast (except the Yankees) and a Portuguese 
 man-of-war had her yards cock-billed in addition. 
 
 April 1st (Sunday). — At one o'clock in the afternoon I went on 
 shore, and walked about all the principal parts of the city and 
 through the grounds of the celebrated Camoens. We went in the 
 little house where, 'tis said, he wrote most of his famous writings. 
 We also visited his tomb, which is a little grotto. The house and 
 grounds, although extensive and must have been beautiful 'in 
 time past, are now in a sad state of ruin, and it seems a pity that 
 the Portuguese authorities should allow them to be so neglected. 
 
 April 2d. — At five o'clock, when the White Cloud came up from 
 Hong Kong, she signaled that she had a mail for the fleet. Sent a 
 boat and received a very large mail for the ship, with dates up to 
 January 20th. But I aid not receive any letters, and am conse- 
 quently very much disappointed this evening, as I have not heard 
 from home since the first of last October. 
 
 April 3d. — At 6 a.m. the flagship made signal to get under way, 
 take the Relief in tow and follow her motions. After a little 
 trouble we got the Relief fast and steamed out of Macao roads for 
 the Canton river. After getting well in the river we cast off our 
 tow and the Hartford and Wachusett steamed ahead, leaving the Old 
 storeship to make the best of her vray up the river under canvas, 
 the wind being favorable for sailing. We had a very pleasant day 
 in which to make the run and saw a great many objects of interest 
 along the banks of the river. After reaching Whampoa the 
 Hartford came to anchor, there not being enough water to ascend 
 higher up the river. But we steamed ahead and at 4 p. m. came to 
 anchor off the city of Canton. 
 
 After leaving Whampoa we had some little difficulty in keeping 
 in mid channel and steering clear of the junks and sampans, the 
 river being almost covered with them; but having two excellent 
 Chinese pilots on board we finally got through. In the evening 
 we had a pleasant and amusing visit from our Consul, Mr. Oliver 
 H. Perry, son of old Commodore Oliver H. Perry. 
 
,«„i w*. f 
 
 -I IJritjl J'/illqi il ixniijinil-, :l i.ij . 
 
A PLEASANT VISIT TO CANTON 189 
 
 April 4th. — Quite pleasant to-day, so that we had an excellent 
 chance to exercise the crew and to black the ship outside. Most 
 of the ofiBcers deserted the ship to-day after muster to visit Canton . 
 It is said that the floating population amounts to upward of eight 
 hundred thousand, and judging from appearances it must exceed 
 that number, for the water is almost covered with craft of all sorts, 
 sizes and descriptions and each boat had from two to fifty people 
 on board. 
 
 We had two Chinese boats to wait on the wardroom officers — 
 pulled by women. 
 
 April 5th. — To-day has been one of the pleasantest we have had 
 since our arrival on the China coast. At sunset the Admiral came 
 up from Whampoa and will remain in the Wachiisett for a couple 
 of days. We hoisted his flag to the mizzen. 
 
 April 6th. — After exercises, as many as possible of the wardroom 
 officers went on shore to see Canton. After landing we hired the 
 best guides and went all over the city in sedan chairs. We visited 
 the Canton gardens, temples, joss-houses, pagodas, places of 
 execution and torture and all the curiosity shops and a great many 
 stores of different varieties. One temple contained five hundred 
 gods and idols of all descriptions and sizes. The Canton pagoda 
 is over thirteen hundred years old. 
 
 It was quite amusing as we rode along in our sedan chairs, single 
 file through the different narrow streets, to see the Chinamen stop 
 and make remarks, such as "foreign devils," etc. And then the 
 small boys would run away to get out of the "foreign devil's" way 
 and not be harmed. Most of the streets are very narrow, not over 
 four feet wide, and are very dirty, especially through the market 
 districts. 
 
 We carefully examined the cat, dog and rat markets and saw 
 Chinamen eating of each; but although we generally try every- 
 thing wherever we go, we have not yet been long enough in China 
 to fall in with John's favorite dish. 
 
 Although they call us "foreign devils," yet they are willing 
 enough to take om: money and they do charge us most unreason- 
 ably for everything that we desired to purchase. Our collection of 
 curiosities will be rather small on this accoimt. 
 
 April 9th. — Raining furiously aU day. At 11 a. m. the English 
 consul called upon the Admiral, and upon leaving we saluted him 
 with seven guns. 
 
190 VISITING CHINESE PORTS 
 
 At 2 p. M. the Chinese Governor-General and suite visited the 
 ship. Saluted him with thirty-four guns. As he is the viceroy of 
 this province and has power of life and death over thirty-one million 
 Chinese, he is considered as "one possessed of authority," and 
 consequently he came in great state. Although there were ten 
 high Chinese officials with him, none of them could take a seat at 
 the same table, and it thus fell to our lot to entertain these ten 
 dignitaries in the wardroom. After getting them below and 
 filling them up with bonbons, wine, etc., we had quite a jolly time 
 with them. 
 
 On account of the rain we could not show them much of the ship, 
 but what little they did see they seemed very much pleased with — 
 and astonished at some things. 
 
 April 12th. — Busy all the morning as senior member of a court 
 martial to try ten men for leaving the ship without permission. 
 
 In the afternoon went on shore on the Honam side of the river 
 and went through the temple. Although it covers more ground 
 than any temple in China, yet in the interior it resembles all the 
 others that we have visited, being filled with images of their 
 different gods. The principal object of interest is to look at their 
 holy pigs, which are kept with care in one part of the temple and are 
 worshiped by the poorer people. 
 
 April 14th. — Spent most of the day with several American 
 friends on a picnic in the Canton gardens; had a jolly time of it. 
 In the evening received orders from the Admiral to return to 
 Hong Kong immediately. 
 
 April 15th. (Sunday) — After church service, which was conducted 
 by the Rev. Mr. Grey, an English missionary, we got under way 
 and steamed down the river in charge of a pilot. At 3 p. m. we 
 anchored at Whampoa and immediately sent boats to the Relief 
 for provisions. After filling up with stores, we again stood down 
 the river until it was too dark to run any longer, so we anchored 
 for the night. 
 
 We are all sorry to leave Canton, for we had just got fairly 
 acquainted and begun to enjoy our visit very much. We had 
 anticipated a long stay in the river, but troubles are arising on the 
 northern coast and we are obliged to go there to protect American 
 interests. 
 
 April 16th. — At daylight this morning we got under way and 
 steamed down to Hong Kong and anchored near the Hartford. 
 
SUDDEN RECALL TO HONG KONG 191 
 
 Our Captain went on board and received orders to get ready for 
 sea immediately. It seems that there is some trouble up the coast 
 at New Chang and we go there to protect the interests of American 
 residents. 
 
 April 17th. — Busy coaling ship, taking in stores and provisions, 
 and in getting everything ready for sea. Ensign William C. Wise 
 [now Rear-Admiral] was detached from the flagship and ordered 
 to the Wachiisett to take the place of Mr. Pegram. 
 
 April 18th. — During the forenoon we were busy settling up 
 different reports with the flagship. At 1 p. m. the Admiral made 
 signal for us to get under way and proceed to sea — which order, of 
 course, was carried out. 
 
 April 19th. — Blowing hard from the northeast all day, consider- 
 able sea, steaming ahead to it, but making little progress and bad 
 weather at it. 
 
 At eight o'clock as I had the deck, the cry of " Man overboard ! " 
 was passed along the deck. We stopped the engines immediately 
 and as he drifted by the ship we hove a grating overboard for him 
 to cling to. We then lowered the whale boat at great risk of life 
 and sent her in charge of an oflB.cer, but before she could reach the 
 spot the man sank beneath the waves never to rise again. I re- 
 called the boat alongside, but in trying to hoist her up she got 
 adrift and we were obliged to send a cutter with thirteen men and 
 an officer for her. 
 
 They had advanced but a short distance from the ship when she 
 was capsized and left them, all struggling in the water. We were 
 then obUged to lower another cutter to rescue the first boat's crew. 
 After a great deal of trouble and danger the third officer detailed 
 succeeded in rescuing his shipmates and bringing them alongside 
 of the ship. The Wachiisett was rolling frightfully all the time, 
 and while trying to hoist and secure the two cutters they were 
 both stove in alongside, and it was blowing so hard that we con- 
 sidered it too hazardous to attempt to save the whale boat. 
 
 So we left the whaleboat on the sea, thereby losing one boat and 
 the eqmpment of three. The man we lost was one of the best 
 hands aboard, being captain of the forecastle. He was washed 
 overboard by a heavy sea while in the performance of his duty. 
 At 11 A. M. we steamed on our course again, but the remainder 
 of the day has been rather gloomy and sad on board. 
 
 April 20th. — Quite pleasant all day, sea very smooth, steaming 
 
192 VISITING CHINESE PORTS 
 
 to the north along the coast of China, land in sight all day. !Passed 
 the entrance of Amoy harbor about sunset. Most of our officers 
 are on the sick list and there is only one master and myself to stand 
 watch and do duty on board. 
 
 April 21st.— Blowing quite hard from the north-northeast all day, 
 with a heavy head sea setting in from the north. Steaming along 
 the coast but making very little progress. Cleared the Formosa 
 channel and are in hopes of better weather soon. 
 
 April 22d (Sunday). — Last night, in the mid watch, it being very 
 dark, we ran over a Chinese junk. Stopped the engines imme- 
 diately and sent a boat to their assistance, but there being another 
 junk near at hand they would not receive assistance from us, so 
 we stood on to the north again. 
 
 She was a large junk carrying six guns. Afterward we came 
 to the conclusion that she was a pirate, and, mistaking the Waehu- 
 sett for a merchantman, had stolen up on us in the dark with the 
 intention of capturing us. We could not tell how many of the 
 rascals were lost. The principal damage to the ship was the loss 
 of our head booms. 
 
 April 24th. — Steaming all night along the islands to the south of 
 the Yangtse river, occasionally firing a gun and sending up rockets 
 in hopes of getting a pilot. At 8 a. m. the pilot came aboard and I 
 turned the ship over to him. We steamed up the river at full 
 speed, but we were beaten by two English mail steamers, much to 
 our chagrin. At 1 p. m. we turned off into the Woosimg river and 
 arrived at Shanghai at three o'clock and anchored of? the American 
 concession. Visited by officers from foreign men of war and from 
 the Wyoming. 
 
 April 25th. — At 1 p. m. the Consul-General, a Mr. Seward, made 
 an official visit to the ship, we saluting him with nine guns. I 
 spent the afternoon on the race course, it being the spring meeting 
 of the Shanghai races. Although the weather was threatening 
 the grounds were filled with European gentlemen and ladies, 
 nearly all of them having their betting books out for bets. The 
 English ladies seemed to be as enthusiastic about it as any gentle- 
 man present. On the whole the races passed off very well. 
 
 (Philip's Journal of a Cruise Continued in Chapter XXIII) 
 
CHAPTER XXII 
 
 PHILIP AND THE NAVAL Y. M. C. A. 
 
 Robert Edward Steele, late Chaplain U. S. N. 
 
 I FIRST met Admiral Philip in his cabin in the Texas, 
 just after the war and before his promotion to the 
 rank of commodore. Mr. W. B. Millar, who as Secre- 
 tary of the International Committee of the Y. M. C. A. had 
 directed the remarkable campaign of that organization 
 for both soldiers and sailors in the war with Spain, was 
 with me. A meeting had been planned at which this 
 midertaking was to be reviewed. General O. O. Howard, 
 U. S. A., who had served under the banner of the Cross 
 during the war, was to tell of his experiences in the camp 
 and on the quarter-deck, and others were to teU of the 
 work in the Army and Navy. 
 
 It was important that prominent men from both 
 services should be present, and we felt that the man 
 whose noble words and deeds had thriUed the Christian 
 public after the battle of Santiago, was the man we 
 needed from the Navy. The meeting was to be held in 
 the beautiful suburban residence of one of the philan- 
 thropic millionaires of New York, and a number of wealthy 
 people, well able to aid in the prosecution of the work, 
 had been invited. 
 
 Phihp dreaded nothing so much as pubhc notice and 
 notoriety. His nature was so well-balanced that he could 
 afford to shrink from public praise, being well content 
 with the approval of his own conscience. When he learned 
 
194 PHILIP AND THE NAVAL Y. M. C. A. 
 
 that his presence at the meetmg would be used as an 
 attraction to draw together the people whom it was de- 
 sired to reach, he positively refused to go. We outlined 
 to him the plan we had in mind for the establishment of 
 the Naval Y. M. C. A., and on which I was then working 
 under orders of the Navy Department. As we pictured 
 to him the possibilities of such an organization for good 
 to the enlisted men of the service, his face lighted up 
 with interest, and he began to ask questions which showed 
 that he had made a deep and conscientious study of their 
 needs. When we again pressed our request for his 
 attendance, and suggested that to help us in the matter 
 was a duty he owed the men, he responded at once: "I 
 will go. I will do my duty, no matter how unpleasant it 
 may be." 
 
 This was the beginning of his connection with the great 
 work which is destined to keep his memory ever fresh 
 in the hearts of the enhsted men of the Navy. Not very 
 long after this, he was asked to become a member of the 
 International Committee of Young Men's Christian Asso- 
 ciations, and chairman of its Naval Sub-Committee. 
 To this he also gave a ready affirmative, as soon as he 
 realized that his reputation and popularity would aid the 
 cause of the men whom he loved. 
 
 This was in the closing days of 1898. Admiral Bunce, 
 Commandant of the Brookl3Ti Navy Yard, was to be re- 
 tired on Christmas Day, he being sixty-two years old on 
 that day. He had heartily endorsed the Y. M. C. A. in 
 the initial stages of its work, and it was a matter of serious 
 import to the new enterprise, which was still in an embryo 
 state, that his successor should be a man who would take 
 interest in it. While there were several officers of suffi- 
 cient rank to warrant their choice for this place, in whom 
 we had every confidence, and of whose interest we were 
 
"called" to the BROOKLYN NAVY YAED 195 
 
 well assured, Commodore Philip was naturally the most 
 desirable because of his relationship to the Committee. 
 
 We were not disposed to use political or other influence 
 with the Washington authorities, and felt sure that the 
 Divine care, so manifest up to that point in the enterprise, 
 would be exercised in this matter also. It was made the 
 subject of earnest prayer that God would give us Com- 
 modore PhiUp as Coromandant of the Navy Yard. At 
 one time it seemed as if the whole movement hinged upon 
 his coming. He was then in command of the North 
 Atlantic Squadron at Havana. He did not want to come 
 to New York. His preference was the Navy Yard at 
 Boston. Prominent citizens of that city were asking 
 for his assignment there and he himself was asking it also. 
 Men of the greatest political influence added their powerful 
 voices to his, and personally waited upon the Secretary 
 of the Navy in his behalf. In spite of all this he was 
 sent to New York. Afterward he saw the hand of God 
 in the matter and rejoiced in it. 
 
 He plvmged at once into the work of the Association. 
 As soon as he had taken command, he began to exercise 
 his influence in its behalf. His name was one with which 
 to conjure in the Navy. Every one, high and low, knew 
 "Jack" Philip, and any scheme in which he was interested 
 was bound to win support in the service. Modest and 
 retiring as he was by nature, he never hesitated to per- 
 form the most impleasant tasks in behaK of the Y. M. C. A. 
 
 One day, in December, 1898, I saw him at his lodging 
 in Brooklyn (he had not moved into the Navy Yard at 
 the time), and laid before him our great need of money 
 if we were to go on with our enterprise, suggesting that 
 if he would see some of the prominent wealthy men of 
 the city, we might get what we needed. He had never 
 done such a thing in his life as to solicit funds from a 
 
196 PHILIP AND THE NAVAL T. M. C. A. 
 
 stranger for any purpose, and no task more distasteful 
 or humiliating could have been imposed upon a naval 
 officer. Every instinct of professional and personal 
 pride was opposed to it, yet he did not hesitate when 
 he realized the necessity of the case. He agreed to go 
 with me on the following morning to call on the Hon. 
 Seth Low, whose well-known generosity gave promise 
 of success, and who had given practical evidence of his 
 interest in naval seamen by generous gifts to a coffee 
 house he had helped to found for them several years 
 ago. 
 
 Promptly on the stroke of ten we met at the New York 
 entrance of the Brooklyn Bridge, and took the elevated 
 for Momingside Heights. We saw the President in his 
 office at the University and without any hesitancy he 
 gave us a generous gift toward our funds — the first con- 
 tribution of consequence received for the new movement. 
 There was something characteristic of the two men in 
 this incident — one generous and patriotic, and the other 
 conscientious and unshrinking in the performance of 
 duty. As I write, incident after incident crowds to my 
 memory of those days of small beginnings, and my 
 heart is sad to think that the "Greatheart" of the Navy 
 is no longer with us to bear our burdens and cheer our 
 often faltering steps. 
 
 When we were planning the next step, after securing 
 the funds necessary to make the start, the question of a 
 building came up. Again the Commodore gave his per- 
 sonal attention to it and together we searched the neigh- 
 borhood of the Navy Yard. The suitable buildings were 
 very few, and at last narrowed down to two — one on the 
 comer of Sands and Adams Streets, and the other on the 
 comer of Sands and Charles Streets. The clear-sighted- 
 ness of the Commodore selected the latter, which was the 
 
Jkirrett Philip, eldest son of Admiral Philip. 
 
HIS DEMOCRACY 197 
 
 smaller of the two. He said: "It is better to crowd a 
 small building than to haK fill a large one." 
 
 When, after some delays and much hard work, the 
 time had come for the formal opening, on February 27th, 
 again it was the Commodore's hand which put the 
 finishing touches to every detail. The Navy Yard Band 
 was present by his direction, and invitations were issued 
 by him to all the Navy people of the station, and to 
 many prominent citizens. The opening was a great 
 success, and set the kejmote for the marvelous progress 
 of the movement. All the afternoon a string of people 
 passed through the rooms, admiring their neatness and 
 adaptability to the needs of the men. The Commodore 
 and Mrs. Phihp helped to receive them. 
 
 But at night, when about fifty of the sailors and marines 
 took possession for the first time of their new quarters, 
 it was Commodore Philip whose presence added most to 
 their attractiveness. Secure ia his high rank and having 
 to the full that respect which is based on worth rather 
 than rank, it was easy for him to be natural ia his cor- 
 diality toward them. They loved him then, but I ven- 
 ture the assertion that it was not with the depth of affec- 
 tion which developed later as they saw the outgrowth 
 of his interest ia them. 
 
 After the building was open, and the men began to 
 use it freely and ia considerable numbers, it was his 
 pleasure to come up on Simday afternoons and sit ia the 
 parlor smokiag a cigar (after passing around a handful 
 to the men), and glanciag over the papers. This was 
 done to show them his personal iaterest in them and the 
 movement. 
 
 One day an old sailor attached to the Vermont at the 
 Navy Yard, told me of a difficulty he and other men 
 attached to that vessel, foimd in getting aboard late at 
 
198 PHILIP AND THE NAVAL Y. M. C. A. 
 
 night. It was a rule of the Yard that enlisted men could 
 not go alone through the Navy Yard after nine o'clock. 
 They must be accompanied either by an officer or by a 
 marine of the Guard. As the reliefs were posted every 
 two hours, it was the rule to compel men to wait for the 
 next relief before going down., A man reaching the gate 
 at five minutes past nine could not go down until eleven. 
 Or if it were a minute or two after eleven, he must wait 
 till 1 A. M. The result of this rule was that men arriving 
 a little late, went into the numerous saloons at the en- 
 trance and often became intoxicated — sometimes break- 
 ing their liberty in consequence. As soon as the Com- 
 modore learned of this, he changed the rule and ordered 
 that they should be allowed to go down every hour. 
 
 Perhaps the hardest task he ever undertook for the 
 men was to ask Miss Gould for the money with which 
 to erect the new Naval Branch which has now been built. 
 He felt it to be his duty. He had thought the matter 
 over in all its bearings, and finally he determined to take 
 up his cross and ask for it himself. This was indeed a 
 hard thing for him to do, for he knew how much Miss 
 Gould was annoyed by constant appeals for money. Yet 
 he felt that if she imderstood the great need of the work 
 she would be willing to give the funds necessary. Sweetly 
 and generously this noble woman gave her assent to 
 his proposition and the result is manifest to all the 
 world. 
 
 The men loved Philip because he loved them. When 
 he died a deep sense of personal loss fell on us all. " Our 
 Admiral is dead," said one fine old man of war's man to me. 
 He had served under him on the Texas, and felt his death 
 as a blow to himseK. No one in civil life knows the depth 
 of affection which exists between the truly noble com- 
 mander and his crew. They enshrine him in the most 
 
"the men loved PHILIP" 199 
 
 sacred chambers of their hearts, and love him as a 
 brother. 
 
 Admiral Philip was such a man. He never said an 
 unkind word, nor did an unkind act. In his discipline 
 he was strict, but not in trifles. He could speak sternly 
 and to the point if need be, but the need rarely arose 
 with him. Men served him faithfully because of personal 
 attachment, rather than from fear of his wrath. God 
 makes few men like Admiral John W. Philip. 
 
CHAPTER XXIII 
 
 CAPTURE OF CHINESE OUTLAWS 
 
 AMONG the "lesser" exploits that brighten the 
 pages of American naval history must be added 
 the heretofore neglected expedition led by the 
 then Lieutenant John W. Philip, which landed at mid- 
 night in a populous Chinese city, marched through sev- 
 eral miles of narrow, winding streets and country roads, 
 surrounded the headquarters of a notorious gang of 
 " swordracks," or outlaws, took their citadel by storm, 
 captured the entire band with their leader and his two 
 sons, and returned on board ship without the loss of a 
 man. The enterprise was daringly conceived, skiKully led 
 and was completely successfiil because of its very audacity. 
 Just before the Wachusett arrived on the Asiatic sta- 
 tion, a band of Chinese outlaws had for some time been 
 terrorizing the country around New Chang, openly defy- 
 ing the authorities and boldly challenging them to " come 
 and take us." Encouraged by their immunity from 
 punishment, they finally made a deadly assault on a party 
 of Americans, among whom was our consul to that port, 
 Mr. Knight. As soon as Admiral Bell learned of these 
 atrocities he dispatched Commander Townsend in the 
 Wachusett, post haste, to the scene of trouble, with in- 
 structions to take prompt action in bringing the offenders 
 to justice in whatsoever manner the local situation 
 seemed to justify. How well these instructions were 
 carried out is told in Philip's diary. 
 
OFF ON A AOSSION OF VENGEANCE 201 
 
 Philip's journal of a cruise 
 {Continued from Chapter XXI) 
 
 April 28th (Shanghai). — Finished coaling and made preparations 
 for getting under way. In the evening visited the Royal Sussex 
 [Masonic] Lodge. Had an exceedingly pleasant time. 
 
 April 29th. — Got up steam and unmoored ship, making final 
 preparations for leaving Shanghai. Several Americans came on 
 board to see us off, having made several acquaintances during our 
 short stay. We are sorry to leave so soon. At 2.20 p. m. got under 
 way and steamed down the Woosung and Yangtse-Kiang in fine 
 style (and at a high rate of speed) with flags at each masthead, 
 we having dressed ship to-day by request of the Russian admiral 
 in honor of the anniversary of the Russian Emperor's birthday 
 and the emancipation of serfs in Russia. After getting well down 
 the river and out of sight of the shipping we hauled down all the 
 colors and put the sea " rig " on the Wachusett, bound for a cruise 
 to the north. 
 
 April 30th. — Fine weather and a perfectly smooth sea. Passed 
 through several fleets of Chinese fishing junks. Entered the Yellow 
 Sea this evening. 
 
 May 1st. — Unusually pleasant all day, steaming northward under 
 low head of steam. 
 
 May 2d. — ^A very heavy dust fog to-day so that you could not 
 see land at a distance of four miles. To-night we are running in 
 for the Straits of Pechili, getting an occasional cast of the lead for 
 greater security. 
 
 May 3d. — Steaming up the Gulf of Pechili close in to land. At 
 eight o'clock took a pilot for the bar and at 10.30 came to anchor 
 to await daylight to cross the bar at the mouth of the river. 
 
 May 4th. — At nine o'clock got under way and steamed over the 
 bar and up the river to Yingtsze, and at noon we anchored off the 
 town abreast of the foreign concession and communicated with our 
 Gonsul, Mr. Knight. The town is purely Chinese and is miserably 
 barren and dirty. It appears that there is a band of " swordracks 'I 
 or robbers, ranging over the country here at large, and lately they 
 have attackd and murdered some American citizens and the Ad- 
 miral, sent the Wachiisett up in haste for satisfaction. 
 
 May 5th. — We heard to-day that the "swordracks," or robbers, 
 have taken possession of some towns to the north, and are daily 
 
202 CAPTURE OF CHINESE OUTLAWS 
 
 expected here. But I think they will not attempt it while we are 
 at anchor off the town. All the Europeans are drilling and making 
 themselves as secure as possible under the direction of the British 
 Consul, Mr. Meadows. 
 
 May 6th. — To-day we got ready to land one hundred men to go 
 on shore to arrest some Chinamen; but after being ready to start 
 the expedition was delayed for some reason on the part of our 
 Consul. 
 
 May 7th. — At three o'clock we landed fifty armed sailors and 
 then went up to the Consulate. Here Captain Townsend, our 
 Consul, and I mounted on horseback and marched off to pay an 
 official visit on the mandarin here, taking the sailors along as an 
 armed escort. The object of the Arisit was to demand satisfaction 
 of the Chinese authorities for outrages perpetrated upon American 
 citizens lately. We were received in great state by the chief 
 mandarin and everything passed off quite to our satisfaction. 
 This town had never seen such a "turn out" before in its quiet 
 streets, consequently we collected an immense crowd which fol- 
 lowed us all the time while on shore. They all seemed to be anx- 
 ious to examine everything about and belonging to us. The 
 Governor invited us to join him in "chow-chow," but the nature 
 of our visit would not allow us to partake of his hospitality. 
 
 May 8th. — Raining hard all day. No one could go on shore 
 because, in the first place, this town is one of the poorest places on 
 earth for a foreigner and then the mud is frightful — that of Virginia 
 cannot compare with this. 
 
 May 9th. — At 11 a. m. we were all surprised by a small fall of 
 snow, which in this latitude and this season of the year is considered 
 very extraordinary. 
 
 Still patiently awaiting news from the mandarins. 
 
 May 10th. — Spent the evening with the Commissioner of Imperial 
 Customs, meeting several English gentlemen of standing here. 
 
 May 11th. — We were able to carry out the routine on board 
 to-day, but I think that we had the heaviest " dust storm " that I 
 have ever experienced. The atmosphere was completely filled 
 with fine yeUow dust, so thick that the sun was almost entirely 
 obscured. 
 
 May 12th. — It was so pleasant to-day that I sent all of the men 
 on shore for exercise and target practice with small arms. 
 
 May 13th (Sunday). — Went on shore for the purpose of purchas- 
 
ON THE SCENE OF TROUBLE 203 
 
 ing some furs, etc., but it was so warm and dusty that I soon re- 
 turned to the ship, with only a tiger and a few other skins. 
 
 At 4 p. M. the chief Chinese official, Cheung, visited the ship 
 accompanied by his suite of fifteen Chinamen and the Commissioner 
 of Customs and our Consiil, Mr. Knight. Gave him a salute of five 
 guns. After showing him all over the ship we fired a couple of 
 shells from the 100-pounder rifles, which surprised and pleased him 
 very much; he never having seen so large a gun and one that would 
 fire so far. He appeared to be very curious and asked about every, 
 thing, and on the whole seemed to enjoy himself and is willing 
 now to try and expedite matters to our Captain's satisfaction so 
 that we can return to the south again. This is the largest man-of- 
 war (and the first American one) to visit Yingtsze. 
 
 May 14th. — Blowing almost a gale of wind to-day, with a very 
 heavy spring tide in the river running about six knots. At 3 p. m. 
 the dingey was capsized astern of our ship and the boat-keeper 
 drowned. The officer of the deck sent a cutter and ten men to 
 tow the dingey back to this ship. After being away for some time 
 I took the second cutter with sixteen men and pulled up the river 
 for the other boats; they being then about six miles from the ship 
 and unarmed. After a great deal of trouble and work I managed 
 to get back to the ship, when the tide turned, with all of the boats. 
 I have never experienced such rough work on a river before — 
 twenty-five miles from the sea ! 
 
 May 15th. — Quite pleasant to-day. I sent all of the men on 
 shore to be instructed in company drill, and exercise a little at 
 target practice. We are still waiting for the Commissioner to 
 settle up these difficulties with the American Consul. 
 
 May 16th. — Making preparations for going down to the bar in 
 order to survey it and buoy out the channel as an accommodation 
 to an Englishman on shore, and a means of saving money to a few 
 close-fisted Dutchmen who will not hereafter employ pilots to take 
 their brigs and barks over the bar. If Americans would ever 
 derive any benefit from this work I would help with a will. But 
 as it is, I have to do all the work (for English and Dutchmen), I 
 heartily disapprove of it and consider it a small business for an 
 American man-of-war to be engaged in. 
 
 May 17th. — At 3.30 a. m. we got under way and steamed down 
 the river in charge of a pilot and anchored just inside of the bar in 
 order that we can carry out the survey with greater facility. 
 
204 CAPTURE OF CHINESE OUTLAWS 
 
 Spent all day in " getting ready " to " commence work " and drawing 
 out plans, etc. 
 
 May ISth. — Raining and blowing quite fresh all day, with every 
 indication of still worse weather. Unable to do anything on the 
 survey to-day, as the arrangements for completing the survey had 
 not all been made by the parties in Yingtsze before our leaving that 
 place, the Captain concluded to return; so at 2 p. m. we got under 
 way and steamed up the river again and moored ship off the United 
 States Consulate at 4 p. m. to remain here idle for some days longer. 
 
 May 19th. — Blowing a gale of wind all day, and as nothing was 
 done toward the business for which we were sent here this may be 
 considered a day lost. There was much grief in the ship to-day 
 by the accidental shooting of old Jacko while engaged in some 
 innocent mischief. He was a large baboon which I got at the 
 Gape de Verdes and had become a favorite fore and aft. Every- 
 body was sorry that he was killed after being with us so long. 
 
 May 20th (Sunday). — This morning we had three visitors at 
 service, Dr. and Mi's. Watson. A very thick dust storm all day, 
 completely covering everything with fine dust. 
 
 May 21st. — Busy all day in placing anchors and buoys on board 
 a junk, preparatory to placing them on the bar for oxir "friends.". 
 Wind dust storm again to-day. 
 
 May 22d. — Finished all the preparations for the survey to-day as 
 far as junks, anchors and buoys are concerned; and now we wait 
 for the Captain to go down to the bar again, finish up and leave 
 this port for the south. We are anxious now to get down in order 
 to meet the Admiral and go over to Japan with him for the summer. 
 All are heartily sick of the port of Yingtsze. 
 
 May 23d. — Quite pleasant to-day, so that we "fell in", to our 
 usual routine of exercises again. The pilot came on board in the 
 morning to take us down the river, but the Captain concluded that 
 we would wait a little longer. I went on shore in the morning for a 
 ride, but Yingtsze is such a miserable place that it was impossible 
 for us to find horses, so we returned to the ship again still more 
 disgusted. 
 
 May 24th. — In the morning I took the rifle howitzer and crew on 
 shore for target practice. After drilling a little and drawing a 
 crowd of Chinese spectators we went off in search of a suitable 
 place for the target, but our search was unsuccessful, there not 
 being sufficient room for the rifle shells. 
 
A THANKLESS TASK 205 
 
 This afternoon we were fortunate enough to secure some saddle 
 horses and started for the country. We went out about twelve 
 miles, through several Chinese villages, stopping at all places of 
 interest on the way. The country back of Yingtsze is one vast 
 plain, as far as the eye can see, mostly under cultivation of beans 
 and millet, which are the only articles of commerce or trade be- 
 tween this and other ports to the south and that is the business 
 in which all foreign merchants are engaged in. 
 
 May 25th. — Made preparations for going down to the bar at last. 
 At 1 p. M. got under way with two large junks in tow, with the 
 buoys on board, and steamed down the river in charge of a pilot. 
 We anchored just inside of the bar. Sent out one of the cutters 
 and determined the position of one buoy. 
 
 May 26th. — Busy all day in sounding inside of the bar with the 
 cutters. As the sea was quite smooth the work progressed rapidly 
 and the "deep hole" was plotted out. The crew was engaged in 
 scrubbing some of the Yingtsze mud off the ship's side. 
 
 May 27th (Sunday). — Blowing very fresh from the southwest 
 so we were unable to work at the buoys or the survey. As our sur- 
 geon was absent at Yingtsze attending to the sick, our Captain 
 read the service. 
 
 May 28th. — It blew a gale of wind last night and we had to get 
 up steam in order to hold our position. We tried to plant a buoy, 
 but owing to the tide and wind the junks were unmanageable. 
 
 May 29th. — We had fine target practice with the great guns this 
 morning, although it was the first time that we have had a regular 
 exercise since being in commission. The men did splendid firing, 
 to the credit of the ship. In the afternoon we placed one of the 
 buoys, which finishes up the work inside of the bar, and we will go 
 outside at three o'clock to-morrow morning — weather permitting. 
 
 May 30th. — At three o'clock this morning I called all hands to 
 unmoor ship, but having great difficulty in unmooring and in getting 
 under way the tide fell so much that we did not have enough water 
 for crossing and so had to wait for the afternoon tide. Meantime 
 we surveyed the river above our anchorage. At 3 p. m. we got 
 under way with a junk in tow, but it was blowing so fresh and having 
 quite a sea on we were in danger of towing the junk under, so we 
 cast her off and came to anchor to await fair weather. I am heartily 
 sick of this kind of work. 
 
 May 31st. — Busy surveying all the morning. At 4 p. m. we got 
 
206 CAPTURE OF CHINESE OUTLAWS 
 
 under way, crossed the bar and anchored just outside, in order to 
 place the entrance buoys and finish up out-work preparatory to 
 returning to Shanghai. 
 
 June 1st. — Placed the entrance buoys, thus finishing up the work 
 outside. To-morrow we will finish up everything inside and then 
 I hope we will leave for the south again. 
 
 June 2d. — At 7 a. m. we recrossed the bar and anchored just 
 inside. In the afternoon we steamed up the river and anchored 
 off our Consulate to await further action in reference to our diffi- 
 culties with the " swordracks," or bandits. 
 
 June 3d (Sunday). — To-day there was a "paper chase" on shore, 
 got up for the occasion. Some of our officers went on shore to 
 witness it. 
 
 June 4th. — Pleasant to-day, except for having a "dust storm" 
 with a light wind. Went on shore in the morning, got a couple of 
 horses and rode about twelve miles into the country; having quite 
 a jolly time — considering the place, 
 
 June 5th. — The Chinese authorities have at last commenced to 
 take notice of the object of our visit here, and are making the neces- 
 sary arrests. 
 
 June 6th. — Raining hard all day and very raw and cold. It 
 seemed quite desolate on board, giving us the blues and increasing 
 our dislike for Yingtsze. Captain Townsend went on shore to try 
 and hurry up the Chinese, but did not meet with much success; 
 for it seems that they wish about two weeks longer in which 
 to make the necessary arrests. 
 
 The " swordracks " have posted a placard in the town in which 
 they give notice that next winter they will murder all the foreign- 
 ers here, provided that those of their number now under arrest are 
 executed on our demand. As this river is closed with ice in the 
 winter (like our Hudson) I would not be surprised if they attempted 
 to carry out their threat; because they are very bitter and there 
 are only about sixty foreigners, all told, here and they will be 
 unprotected. 
 
 June 7th. — In the afternoon Captain Townsend went on shore 
 and had an interview with the Chinese General commanding this 
 department, in regard to the arrests of some of the "swordracks". 
 on shore. The old chap made all sorts of promises to Captain 
 Townsend, but I doubt whether he will carry them into execution 
 until he is forced to do so by the Wachuseit. I do not believ 
 
PREPABING FOR SERIOUS WORK 207 
 
 humbug any longer about it, but would compel them to act with a 
 force from the ship if necessary to accomplish the desired result. 
 The Chinese are notorious in postponing everything relative to 
 foreigners (except their own acts against foreigners) as long as 
 they possibly can. And for one I would try and " put a stopper ". 
 to it. 
 
 June 8th. — At 4 p. m. the Chinese Commissioners from New 
 Chang and Moukden made an oflScial Arisit to the ship. They are 
 sent to Yingtsze to inquire into this affair, but instead of coming 
 forward and doing their duty they are trying to shirk out of it 
 and bluff us off. But Captain Townsend is determined and will 
 make hot work for them if they delay much longer. We showed 
 them around the ship but extended to them no hospitality of any 
 sort, because the Chinese have an idea that when a foreigner is 
 polite or entertains in any manner on these occasions, that he is 
 giving in to the Chinamen and is rather afraid of them. In such 
 cases you are obliged to show more rudeness than is agreeable 
 to an American. 
 
 June 9th. — In the morning I went on shore and had a target 
 practice with rifles with a couple of officers. In the afternoon we 
 got horses and rode out into the country. After getting well out 
 we dismounted and practiced with revolvers to our satisfaction 
 and amusement, and much to the astonishment of the Chinamen, 
 who began to assemble around at the first shot. Then we drove 
 through villages and into yards and had a jolly time. Did not 
 retiirn until 9 p. m. 
 
 June 11th. — Went on shore with the boat howitzer to practice 
 a little, but after firing a few rifle shell and endangering a few China- 
 men and junks on the river I concluded that it was unsafe and 
 returned to the ship. In the afternoon I went on shore with an 
 officer and practiced a little with a rifle and a revolver. I have 
 come to the conclusion that this is the only way to pass the time 
 here. 
 
 In regard to our difficulty with the swordracks, Captain Town- 
 send has given the Chinese authorities just four days' grace in 
 which to arrest those outlaws. At the end of that time he will take 
 matters in his own hands. 
 
 June 12th. — Passed the forenoon in letting the men practice at a 
 target with rifles, preparatory to going on shore. The leader of the 
 "swordracks," a Chinaman named Hon, has given us to understand 
 
208 CAPTURE OP CHINESE OUTLAWS 
 
 that he does not intend to run away, and that he will not surrender 
 when we come on shore for his precious person. On the contrary, 
 he invites us to come and try to arrest him. We intend to go, 
 provided the present plan is not changed in a few days. 
 
 June 13th. — Most of us remained on board all day as it had rained 
 all night so that the mud on shore was almost knee deep. But with 
 some officers there is nothing that can keep them on board ship in 
 port, except duty or an order for them to remain. 
 
 June 14th. — In the afternoon Captain Townsend went on shore 
 to have another interview with the Chinese authorities. I suppose 
 it was satisfactory to all parties, as they were closely closeted for 
 about three hours. But whether it will amount to anything or not 
 remains to be seen. The Chinese are so sUppery that they will bear 
 a great deal of watching. 
 
 June 15th. — This afternoon the EngUsh gunboat Weasel arrived 
 from the south. Sent an officer aboard with the usual compliments. 
 We are in hopes that she will remain here for some time and let us 
 depart from this wretched place. 
 
 June 16th. — Blowing very hard all day with an unusually heavy 
 "dust storm" which is peculiar to Yingtsze. With these storms 
 it is almost impossible to do anything in the cleaning line. All the 
 foreigners on shore protect their eyes with veils or goggles, when 
 they leave their houses. 
 
 June 17th (Sunday). — In the afternoon I went on shore in plain 
 clothes and with our Consul went down to examine a little around 
 the house of the "swordrack,'.' Hon. In case we go on shore with an 
 armed party in a few nights I wanted to look at the ground by day- 
 light first. These swordracks looked at us sharply, but did not 
 attempt to interfere with us. Cheung, the chief mandarin here, 
 sent to Captain Townsend and myself some samples of choice 
 Ghinese wine — according to their tastes. It is considered a great 
 luxury at their courts, but it is disagreeable to us. I intended to 
 take it home with me if possible, for it will be quite a curiosity 
 there, coming from this part of China and I am in hopes that it will 
 improve by age and a long passage at sea. 
 
 June 18th. — As we are in the way of beitag "very obliging to 
 outsiders" we sent a large working party on shore to paint and 
 whitewash the United States Consul's buildings and his fences. 
 I don't think anybody would be as " obliging " to us if we wanted 
 anything of the like done for us. In the afternoon Cheung, the 
 
TKIAL OP THE PRISONERS 209 
 
 chief mandarin, visited the ship and Gaptain Townsend enter- 
 tained him very handsomely. We even sent all hands to quarters 
 and exercised the guns for his amusement. The old fellow was 
 very much pleased with his visit. 
 
 June 19th. — A "dust storm'! raged over the ship this afternoon 
 covering everything with fine dust. Yingtsze can boast of the 
 " finest " dust I have ever seen. 
 
 June 20th. — At four o'clock in the afternoon we landed a large 
 detachment of men, and I went with the Consul down to the chief 
 magistrate's residence and there met all the Chinese officials of 
 Yingtsze and the commissioners sent here by the Tartar general. 
 They have arrested eight of the " swordracks '' who made the assault 
 on the Consul and he went down to identify them while I accom- 
 panied him with our men as a protection from further assaults. 
 
 We were received in some state by the mandarins and after the 
 usual greetings, etc., the criminals were brought in before us, 
 heavily chained. After bowing and kissing the ground in front, 
 they were allowed to rise partially, when each was recognized by 
 Mr. Knight, our Consul, and his cooly, as being the party that had 
 committed the deadly assault on him. They were then returned 
 to the jail and we returned to our ship to await their trial, which 
 begins on Monday next. 
 
 In marching back to our ship, the streets and a number of the 
 housetops were crowded with Chinamen eager to see the "foreign 
 white devils.'? Of course we were prepared with loaded rifles and 
 swOrd bayonets for them in case of any unusual demonstration 
 hostile to us. The whole proceeding, after reaching the magis- 
 trate's office, was novel and amusing to me; that is, as far as seeing 
 how the Chinese carry on their legal proceedings. 
 
 June 21st. — We were blessed again to-day with another Yingtsze 
 dust storm, covering as usual everything on board. Our captain 
 had another long interview with the Chinese authorities at the 
 Consul's. I suppose it was satisfactory, as it lasted more than four 
 hours. 
 
 June 22d. — This morning I sent everybody on shore except a few 
 ship-keepers and had a long exercise at company and howitzer 
 drill — preparatory to any trouble we might soon have with the 
 Chinese. The men did remarkably well, considering what little 
 experience they have had on shore. I left the howitzer in one of 
 the Consul's go-downs in order to have it handy — if necessary. 
 
210 CAPTURE OF CHINESE OUTLAWS 
 
 June 23d. — Another dust storm to-day, varied with a stronger 
 wind than usual. In the afternoon I went on shore and rode 
 through the town and took a good look at some of the quarters 
 of the "swordracks." We heard a rumor to-day that Hon, the 
 leader of the "swordracks," whom we intended to arrest to-morrow 
 night, has escaped into the country. If so we will not have any 
 particular fuss over this coming midnight expedition. 
 
 June 24th (Sunday). — Captain Townsend in the afternoon went 
 on shore and had another interview with the Chinese authorities 
 at our consulate. What it amounted to I don't know. It had 
 been our plan to land a large force at midnight, and arrest some 
 "swordracks," including Hon, but as we gave the Chinese authorities 
 four days in which to make the arrests (instead of doing it our- 
 selves) the outlaws seem to have received warning, and as a rational 
 consequence Hon and his gang of thieves have left the place and 
 retired into the interior, where they are safe. So much for placing 
 too much confidence in a Chinaman's word. I would not trust 
 one out of my sight. 
 
 June 25th. — At midnight last we landed one hundred armed 
 men and I went with them (in charge) to try and find Hon and his 
 associates — for we did not believe in the rumors that they had fled. 
 After marching a long distance, piloted by our Consul, we reached 
 Hon's house, and immediately posted sentries around and on top 
 of it and then demanded admittance. Not receiving it in the 
 usual manner I ordered the doors to be broken open, a search made 
 and the arrest of all the male occupants. 
 
 After going through five or six houses in this manner I arrested 
 twenty-three Chinamen and secured a large quantity of Chinese 
 firearms of all assortments. As Hon's premises had been thor- 
 oughly overhauled I concluded to return to the ship and see what 
 Chinamen I had caught. We got back about eight o'clock in the 
 morning and to the gratification of us all we found out that the 
 "birds had not flown," but, on the contrary, I had secured the 
 principal nest of "swordracks" in the place, with the notorious Hon 
 and his two sons. 
 
 The authorities had given it out that the outlaws had escaped, 
 but the truth was that the mandarins dared not arrest any of the 
 leaders — not being able to keep them — and consequently they wished 
 to be " out of it.". But now the gang is safe in double irons aboard 
 the Wachusett. They would have fought and offered resistance, 
 
A MIDNIGHT ASSAULT 211 
 
 had they not been taken completely by surprise a little after mid- 
 night, as they were well prepared for a good defence. 
 
 At ten o'clock we landed one hundred armed men and the how- 
 itzer and marched down to the magistrate's to be present at the 
 trial of the eight prisoners whom they had already arrested. After 
 arriving and posting sentries around the yard we went in the court 
 room and there witnesssed a rather singular trial — pecuUarly 
 Chinese. Around the table were seated five mandarins of different 
 ranks, our Consul, Captain Townsend, two interpreters and our 
 officers. After a few preliminaries our Consul's cooly was brought 
 in and caused to kneel before the court while being interrogated. 
 Then they brought in one of the prisoners and questioned him in 
 the same style. They have no witnesses, as we do, but question the 
 criminal himself. And if he does not tell the truth they extort it 
 from him by means of the most cruel tortures imaginable. We 
 witnessed two or three different tortures to make the prisoner say 
 (or confess) that he was guilty — as their laws will not allow them 
 to punish a man until he confesses that he is guilty. I was dis- 
 gusted several times, but I am obliged to see it again to-morrow. 
 
 June 26th. — At ten o'clock in the morning I left the ship with 
 twenty-five armed men in order to attend the trial. To-day it 
 consisted of cross-examination (in the Chinese style) of the crim- 
 inals examined yesterday. It was very tedious to remain there 
 aU day. There were no tortures to-day and they could not extract 
 any fresh evidence from any of the prisoners. The "swordracks" 
 we have aboard the Wachusett are perfectly contented with their 
 lot, and they reaUy look better and cleaner after their short stay 
 with the "Barbarians," as they are pleased to call us. 
 
 June 27th. — At ten o'clock I went down with thirty armed men 
 to attend the Chinese court, the business consisting of comparing 
 the Chinese with the English records and making them agree. 
 They examined the two leaders, who are the Chung brothers, and 
 took nearly the whole day in trying by different tortures to make 
 these two fellows confess to their guilt. One proceeding rather 
 amused me — although it was barbarous. The leading mandarin 
 had asked one of these brothers several questions which he would 
 not answer to the satisfaction of the court. So the mandairn 
 wrote out the evidence as he thought the criminal ought to say and 
 then told him to acknowledge it as being correct. On refusing to 
 comply with the court's request, they tortured the poor fellow until 
 
212 CAPTURE OF CHINESE OUTLAWS 
 
 he fainted in the court room and they were obliged to remove him. 
 By the Chinese law they cannot punish a person until he confesses 
 to everything. If the court thinks the prisoner is telling lies they 
 torture him for the truth and if he does not confess his guilt they 
 torture him in the most cruel manner. And as soon as he con- 
 fesses they behead him — frequently within one hour. I was told 
 that the prisoner often dies under his torture rather than confess 
 himself guilty. Those, I suppose, are rare cases where the man is 
 really innocent of the crime charged. 
 
 June 28th. — Last evening when we left the court the leading two 
 prisoners had not confessed as the authorities desired, and as it was 
 getting rather late we concluded to return to the ship, and the man- 
 darins said they would get the proper confessions to-day and let us 
 know. So this afternoon they sent word that the men had volun- 
 tarily (tortures) confessed to be leaders in the deadly assault on 
 our Consul. So to-morrow we go down again to see the last of it, 
 I hope. 
 
 June 29th. — At ten o'clock I went down again to the court with 
 thirty armed men to witness the "finish up'.' of the work on the 
 prisoners. The work consisted to-day in reading over the testi- 
 mony of each prisoner and having him acknowledge that it was 
 correct. As neither of these prisoners could sign his name, the 
 court had recourse to a rather ingenious device, namely: they 
 would take an impression of the man's forefinger in wax [near the 
 place where they wished his signature. . Of course the wax was a 
 little hot, but then, he had no business to be a criminal and unable 
 to write his name. 
 
 I am very glad that the business at last is finished. We have 
 now only to dispose of Hon and his gang of robbers. 
 
 June 30th. — At 4 p. m. Cheung and his suite visited the ship. 
 The old fellow is very much worried about our arresting those 
 "swordracks" on shore, and says that when the Emperor at Peking 
 hears of it, he, Cheung, and all the mandarins here will lose their 
 positions and perhaps be degraded and ruined for life. The people 
 on shore cannot understand how it was possible for us to arrest 
 those persons with apparently so little trouble in the "dead of 
 night." The moral effect has been wonderful already on the re- 
 maining "swordracks" about the place. 
 
 July 1st (Sunday). — In the afternoon four mandarins and suites 
 visited the ship on official business in regard to our prisoners, 
 
Captain Robert Toiunsend, XJ. S. N. 
 
PKISONERS OP WAR 213 
 
 "Chinese subjects." We received them with the usual ceremony 
 and gave them in addition a salute of five guns. They are the same 
 officials who tried the late "swordracks" and as they behaved so well 
 in connection with that trial Captain Townsend gave them the 
 salute. They, like old Cheung, are mucli worried in regard to our 
 prisoners and are apparently willing to do anything (in promise) 
 if our Captain will not take them up to Peking. 
 
 July 4th. — This, being our national holiday, we tried to celebrate 
 it the best we eould in this out-of-the-way corner of the world. 
 At sunrise we dressed ship with flags and at noon fired a salute of 
 twenty-one guns. This being a holiday for the crew as well as the 
 officers, every one was allowed to do about as he pleased. 
 
 At seven o'clock in the morning all the mandarins visited the 
 ship, accompanied by a large military force and after some talk we 
 turned over twenty-one of the "swordracks" to them, keeping only 
 old Hon on board. They were all carried off heavily ironed and 
 chained — no doubt to be released as soon as we sail, although they 
 have given guarantees that they shall be fairly tried and punished. 
 
 July 5th. — In the afternoon our Captain had another interview 
 with the mandarins in regard to Hon. I know not what it amounted 
 to, although I suspect that it was the same old story told over again. 
 
 July 6th. — Busy getting the ship ready for sea. Another inter- 
 view between our Captain and the mandarins about Hon. I expect 
 that it amounted to a number of empty promises. 
 
 July 7th. — At daylight we got up steam, unmoored ship and 
 made preparations for going to sea. At seven o'clock fotir man- 
 darins came on board for the last time and after some talk we 
 turned over old Hon to them and nearly all the arms that we cap- 
 tured from "the swordracks." It appears that eight mandarins have 
 given sufficient guarantees to our Captain and our Consul in regard 
 to protecting the foreign residents in Yingtsze in the future and on 
 these conditions Captain Townsend released the "swordracks." 
 
 At nine o'clock, all being settled and the ship ready for sea, we 
 got under way and steamed down the river bound to Ta-ku. 
 
 {Philip's Journal Contvmied in Chapter XXVI) 
 
CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A SCHOOL-MATE 
 
 William Myers Hoes, Public Administrator 
 
 WHEN we were school-mates, at the Kinderhook 
 Academy, about 1855, "Wood" Philip, as he 
 was then known, was such a rollicking, mis- 
 chievous, fun-loving, sturdy country boy, that none of 
 us would have picked him out as the one among us 
 destined for so distinguished a future. There were other 
 boys more studious and demure, on whom we counted 
 for success. 
 
 The writer sat near him in the school room in the old 
 Kinderhook Academy, and shared many of his school- 
 day pranks. Our boys' school-room was on the left hand 
 of the main floor, as shown in the cut, which is taken 
 from the "Kinderhook Rough Notes," the village paper 
 of the period. Moses Bartlett, from New Hampshire, 
 was our pedagogue ; and we made his temporary stay at 
 Kinderhook, as principal, quite exciting at times. 
 
 "Wood" was then more fond of fun than study, and 
 he seemed to be in everybody's "mess" and in nobody's 
 "watch." He was in all the deviltry in mild form 
 which we indulged in; but I cannot recall that he ever 
 met the punishment some of us other boys suffered. 
 The chalking of the teacher's rush-bottomed chair, the 
 filUng of the Academy bell with water on a keen winter's 
 night, and standing it up until it froze, and failed to ring 
 out the morning simimons to school, and the shooting 
 
Philip's love for fair play 215 
 
 of beans from the back of the large hall, on the second 
 floor of the Academy, when an "Exhibition" composed 
 of ribbon-tied "Compositions" and recitations was going 
 on, were participated in by this great Admiral of later 
 years with the rest of us. But he was cunning, and had 
 an honest, sober visage, or could assume one, and was 
 rarely accused of wrong-doing. Some of us village boys 
 were properly punished by our parents: "Wood" gen- 
 erally went unsuspected. He never shirked a respon- 
 sibility, however, or failed to see fair play. I recall that 
 when certain "City boys" clad in "Glad rags" tried to 
 down some little boys from Cuba, "Wood" demanded 
 that the Cubans should have a fair show; and I think the 
 little foreigners came out ahead. Thus early was indi- 
 cated this noble strain in his character, which developed 
 with years into that great human kindness which voiced 
 itself in those memorable words uttered on the Texas, 
 when his country's enemies were dying in the heat of 
 battle. He made you listen to some queer statement, 
 then question his sincerity, and then laugh with him. 
 
 His sister, Mrs. Wheelock, in her iateresting article, 
 mentions his early "fighting proclivities." We had, in 
 those days at the old Academj'^, scholars from distant 
 homes, who boarded with the principal, at the Academy 
 boarding-house, shown on left of cut. Some of the boys 
 from Cuba and South Carolina were quite fiery, and 
 carried "chips on their shoulders." Wood quietly en- 
 couraged the encounters which took place among the 
 boys, taking a hand in them, if necessary; but he always 
 called the game off when matters looked serious; was as 
 careful to see fair play between his schoolmates as to 
 stand upon his own rights, as he then viewed them. 
 
 Aside from our great Admiral, we had as schoolmates, 
 and prospective men of distinction, the Prentices, of 
 
216 RECOLLECTIONS OF A SCHOOLMATE 
 
 Brooklyn, Henry J. CuUen, afterward a well-known 
 attorney and public administrator of Brooklyn, now 
 deceased, and his brother, Edgar M. Cullen, now one of 
 the judges of the New York Coiu:t of Appeals; Father 
 Samuel H. Frisbee, S. J., former President of St. Francis 
 Xavier College, N. Y., now head of Woodstock College, 
 Maryland; Peter Pruyn, afterward a distinguished local 
 physician; Charles F. Fearing, a New York banker, and 
 others less prominent; but all afterward doing honor to 
 their early training at Kinderhook. 
 
 In those days, "Wood" and the writer were boys of 
 about fifteen, were both born in the town, and as I resided 
 in the village and had the advantage of a garret (that 
 rainy-day revelling place for boys), a barn, a pony, a big 
 dog, an orchard and home surroundings. Wood often was 
 with me after school hours, on our home grounds. 
 
 My pony having had a circus training, once laid down 
 on the village road, with the future Admiral on his back, 
 and rolled him off. As "Wood" had often boasted that 
 the other boys did not know how to manage the "little 
 thing," when he came to grief and the boys and girls 
 were standing about jeering at him heartily, he became 
 so mad that he kept away from our place for some time. 
 My dear old mother, who hked him and gave him " dough- 
 nuts" and "crullers," and my father, who quizzed him 
 in Holland Dutch, said to me, " Why don't you bring that 
 Philip boy home with you oftener? He is real fimny." 
 
 "Wood" left the Academy and his schoolmates in 
 1856, for the Navy, and the next year Frisbee entered 
 Yale; Pruyn, Union; Fearmg, Harvard; the wi'iter, Wil- 
 liams. Not our going, but Time's changes, left the widely 
 known Academy with but few scholars. The boarding- 
 house was cut apart and now forms three pretty cottages, 
 and the old Academy building was occupied as a printing 
 
Philip's generosity 217 
 
 office, and is now a knitting mill. The electric road makes 
 Kinderhook a suburb of Albany, and the old Academy 
 and its occupants are only dim memories. 
 
 A later incident or two I recall with interest. When 
 the "White Squadron (under Admiral Bunce, I think) 
 during its first visit, was lying off Fisher's Island, oppo- 
 site New London, Conn., "Wood" was in command of 
 the Atlanta. My cousin, Lieut. T. B. M. Mason, was his 
 executive officer, and they, with Schley and other officers, 
 visited our cottage on the island. I was " Wood's " guest 
 on the Atlanta, during the trip via Gardiner's Bay, to 
 New York. After our dinner, the first evening in the 
 Captain's cabin, I noticed the steward fitting up a com- 
 fortable bed on the locker; supposing, of course, it was 
 for me. I said: "'Wood' that wiU do me very nicely 
 for the night." Said he: "See here, young fellow, you 
 are on my boat, and obey orders — you take my stateroom, 
 or you go below." I obeyed. 
 
 Before the Texas left for the war, I visited her. " Wood " 
 showed me all about, introduced me in the turrets to a 
 young officer in working rig (Lieut. Haeseler) as the man 
 who had contrived the machinery to make the turret 
 work rapidly, so that he need not spend days in cutting 
 through her deck, as had happened, and said: "I tell you. 
 Will, this old ship is called a 'hoodoo,' but you'll hear 
 from her yet." 
 
 On his return to the Brooklyn Navy Yard, after the 
 war and his brilliant work, I again went on the Texas. 
 The dear old boy, aged some, I thought, was sitting upon 
 a box before an extemporized desk in his dismantled 
 cabin, and as he gripped my hand heartily, he said: 
 "Do you remember what I told you about the Texas, 
 old man? " We mutually recalled his " hoodoo " remark 
 on the same old vessel. 
 
218 RECOLLECTIONS OP A SCHOOLMATE 
 
 Later on, when we had the pleasure of entertaining 
 our distinguished Admiral and his wife, the latter was the 
 recipient of a miniature silken flag of the Texas, and the 
 hero on that occasion overcame his reserve and worked 
 out the Santiago affair on his corner of the dinner table, 
 illustrating the manoeuvres of the Texas and other vessels 
 with knives and forks, and table equipment, to the in- 
 tense delight of our guests, the ladies in particular, who 
 said to me: "Isn't your friend, the Admiral, charming, 
 as well as brave ?" 
 
 I saw no more of my dear old friend, as distance inter- 
 vened, and when he was so suddenly called away I was 
 in Europe. 
 
 I am extremely pleased to contribute these few ramb- 
 ling recollections of my good and great old friend, " Wood " 
 Philip, to this memorial pubUcation. 
 
Captain John Woodward Philip, U, S. N. 
 (By Courtesy of the Century Company.) 
 
CHAPTER XXV 
 
 IMPROVING THE BROOKLYN NAVY YARD 
 
 Rear-Admiral Francis Tiffany Bowles, U. S. Nl 
 
 ADMIRAL PHILIP (then Commodore) took com- 
 mand of the Brooklyn Navy Yard January 14, 
 1899. At that time many improvements were 
 under way, which were begun at the close of the Spanish 
 War. In the following month the Steam Engineering 
 machine shops burned down. The wreckage from this 
 and the materials for the construction of nine new 
 buildings gave the Navy Yard streets an appearance of 
 considerable disorder. 
 
 In the midst of this the Admiral was visited by a 
 delegation of Brooklyn women representiag a Village 
 Improvement Society, or something similar, to call his 
 attention to the awful condition of the Navy Yard. 
 They said there was no one in Brooklyn who remembered 
 the Navy Yard in such a frightfiil condition. 
 
 The Admiral took these women to the top of the Com- 
 mandant's house, where a bird's-eye view of the Yard 
 could be obtained, and explained with care the reason 
 for each obstruction in the streets and that great improve- 
 ments would soon result. 
 
 This delegation, incidentally however, made a great 
 impression on the Admiral, and he devoted thereafter a 
 large portion of his time to paving of the streets, the 
 piers, the laying out of new railroad tracks, the repair 
 and painting of buildings, until there was such a marked 
 change within a brief period, that aU noted the great 
 improvement in the Yard during his command. 
 
220 IMPROVING THE BROOKLYN NAVY YARD 
 
 It is probably true that during the two years following 
 the Spanish War more improvements in the plant and 
 buildings of the Brooklyn Navy Yard were made than in 
 the fifteen years preceding. Although only a small 
 part of this can be ascribed to the Brooklyn women 
 delegates, stUl the Admiral kept us aU famiUar with the 
 story in his insistence that the streets be kept clean and 
 the work be done in an orderly manner. 
 
 It was always a pleasure to see what simple deUght the 
 Admiral took in the material advantages of the Com- 
 mandant's residence, his barge, carriage, horses and 
 menage pertaining to the position, and at the same 
 time his determination that they should be shared by 
 all the officers and their families. He took a sailor's 
 delight in high stepping horses, and soon after he took 
 charge selected a styhsh pair, which he frequently 
 drove. 
 
 On one occasion, in driving over the bridge to New 
 York on a Stmday afternoon, a following trolley car 
 excited the horses into a brisk trot, which took the 
 appearance of an impromptu "brush" with a Rapid 
 Transit car. The Admiral was encouraged by cries of 
 "Go it, Cap.," from the occupants of the car, and from 
 his own account to me things were Uvely for a few min- 
 utes. 
 
 This incident got into the papers, and when the Admiral 
 showed me the chppings with various estimates of the 
 speed of his pair, he said: "But how the reporters would 
 have roasted me if they had known it was Sxmday after- 
 noon." 
 
 The Admiral took much interest in the preservation of 
 Xavy Yard rehcs of former wars, in the small park near 
 the Commandant's office, and when it was proposed to 
 approach a store-house with a railroad spm- rvmning 
 through this small triangular space he refused to give 
 
EFFECTIVE ADMINISTRATION 221 
 
 the right of way, and carried his protest to the Secretary 
 of the Navy. 
 
 One of his first acts was to remove the word "rebel" 
 from the inscriptions on captured relics of the Civil War, 
 saying "there are no rebels now." He had mounted in 
 front of the Commandant's Of&ce two Hontoria 5.5-inch 
 rifles taken from the wrecks of the Vizcaya and Almi- 
 rante Oquendo at Santiago, and also the two Spanish mines 
 which were brought up by the screws of the Texas and 
 Marblehead at Guantanamo. Several old bronze guas 
 from Manila also were mounted on the sites of the racks 
 of smooth bore shell, which for a long time had orna- 
 mented the lawn in front of the Commandant's residence. 
 
 The large flagstaff now standing in the smaU park 
 opposite the main gate at Sands street was erected by 
 Admiral Philip, and first used with much ceremony on 
 Decoration Day of 1900, when he began at the Xavy 
 Yard the regular salute to "the colors," always followed 
 on board ship at 8 a. m. and sun-down. 
 
 While Admiral Philip was in command, no officer of 
 any grade had need to quake or try to recollect his 
 misdeeds on receiving a summons to the Commandant's 
 Office, because, no matter what the occasion, he was sure 
 of a kindly reception and an opportunity to present his 
 case in a frank and friendly talk. 
 
 No dockyard Commandant in my experience ever 
 secured such loyal support or such earnest work from 
 his subordinates as did Admiral PhiUp, and he rarely 
 gave an order as such, but rather made a suggestion 
 which it would please him to have carried out. This 
 disposition naturally led his officers to assume responsi- 
 bility and to work out for themselves matters which 
 by the strict construction of the Regulations might be 
 placed upon the shoulders of the Commandant. 
 
CBAPTER XXVI 
 
 \X^ITIXG POBTS OX BUSI>:E~? 
 Philip's joubnal of a ceuise 
 (Continued from Chapter XXIII) 
 
 JULY Sth (Sunday) — We left Yingtsze early yesterday morning 
 and stood out into the Yellow Sea. At daylight this morning 
 we stood in for the land, and at 11 a. m. we came to anchor 
 near where the Great Wall of China runs into the sea. We lowered 
 three boats, and Captain Townsend, myself and as many officers as 
 could be spared from duty, went on shore to see one of the Seven 
 Wonders of the World. We walked on top of the wall to the 
 town of Hai-Shan, about five miles inland, examining the wall as 
 we went along. Of course, each of us brought away a brick and 
 a little " joss " or so as trophies. On returning to the ship we got 
 under way and steamed down the coast to Ta-ku. 
 
 July 9th. — Steaming down the coast until 2 p. m., when we 
 anchored off the mouth of the Peiho, where we were boarded by 
 boats from the English and French war ships. Our consul, Mr. 
 Knight, who had come with us from Yingtsze as a passenger, now 
 left us and took passage in an English vessel on his way to Peking, 
 where he is to lay the whole matter of the Swordrack -disturbance 
 before the Emperor. On taking leave of Mr. Knight we again got 
 under way and steamed southward for Chefoo, where we are to 
 coal and get our mail. 
 
 July 10th. — About sunset we came to anchor in the harbor of 
 Chefoo. 
 
 July 11th. — All hands engaged in scraping the ship on the out- 
 side, trying to get the Yingtsze mud off her. The American con- 
 sul, Mr. Sanford, visited the ship. 
 
 July 12th. — At 3 p. m. we got under way and steamed out of 
 the harbor bound to the north, and at 7 p. m. we came to anchor 
 off the city of Teng-Chan-Fu. Our consul, Mr. Sanford, came up 
 
ENTERING A WALLED CITY 223 
 
 with us. We are here to settle a difficulty between some American 
 missionaries and the Chinese. It appears that the Chinese have 
 been desecrating American graves, tearing down houses and 
 declaring that they will not allow " foreign devils " to live in the 
 city any longer. As Teng-Ghan-Fu is a port opened by treaty to 
 the world we are here to demand satisfaction. 
 
 July 13th. — Sent a boat in to the town and brought off three of 
 the missionaries, in order to learn particularly the difficulty between 
 them and the Chinese. To-morrow, if it is pleasant, we land one 
 hundred armed men. I suppose there will be some excitement, as 
 the Wachusett is the second man-of-war that has ever visited this 
 port, and will be the first to land armed men in the streets of 
 Teng-Chan-Fu. 
 
 July 14th. — Teng-Ghan-Fu is an old walled city with several 
 gates and very clean (for Chinese) , and everything looked quite 
 comfortable. At 11 a. m. we landed one hundred armed men to 
 go with Captain Townsend and three missionaries to the residence 
 of the chief magistrate. Just before entering the city, the authori- 
 ties hung over the gate we passed through, the heads of three 
 Chinamen in cages to "awe us." We had been cautioned at 
 Ghefop about landing an armed force and consequently were well 
 prepared for any assault. We marched through the city followed 
 by a large number of Chinese who were anxious to see the " foreign 
 devils" as soldiers. We marched up to the magistrate's residence 
 and stacked arms in the inner court. After some time we marched 
 down to the home of a Mr. Hartwell (a missionary) where we had 
 a splendid collation for the sailors. After partaking heartily of it 
 we returned to the ship without any special incident. 
 
 July 15th. — Yesterday Captain Townsend demanded of the 
 chief magistrate the arrest of certain parties before noon to-day. 
 But to-day when the time came we found out that all the man- 
 darins had left the city during the night and had gone to Chefoo — 
 the responsibility being too great for them. So, there being no 
 responsible person left for us to act with, we got under way at 3 
 p. M. to go to Chefoo and head these fellows off there, thus 
 leaving the poor missionaries for a time to themselves and at the 
 mercy of these Chinese. But John Chinaman will have to pay 
 dearly for the trick he plays upon us! At sunset anchored in 
 the harbor of Chefoo. 
 
 July 16th. — Captain Townsend went ashore and had another 
 
224 VISITING PORTS ON BUSINESS 
 
 interview with the chief magistrate in regard to the runaway 
 officials of Teng-Ghan-Fu. 
 
 July 18th. — The missionary affair still remains as we found it. 
 I cannot imagine why we delay other proceedings, for the Chinese 
 will equivocate and delay it all summer and winter — ^if we abide 
 their time. 
 
 July 19th. — Yesterday I allowed one half the crew to go on 
 shore on liberty and this morning the other half went ashore; but, 
 getting full of bad " samshoo " they began rioting, so that I was 
 obliged to send a marine guard to bring off the leaders for trial by 
 court martial. 
 
 July 20th. — We are going to Shanghai for coal and provisions, 
 and will then return to this port and settle that missionary affair. 
 
 July 21st. — At 2 p. M. got under way and steamed out to 
 sea. 
 
 July 22d (Sunday). — At 3 p. m. one of our sailors was washed 
 overboard. We let go the life buoy and stopped the engines. 
 Lowered and sent a cutter to his assistance. Although there was 
 a heavy sea on we were fortunate in saving the man and getting 
 the boat and crew back to the ship. 
 
 July 23d. — Wind gradually died out to-day, but we are still 
 making very little headway. We are burning Japan coal, and 
 although we use about sixty tons a day, we can scarcely log three 
 knots per hour. To-day we are three hundred and thirteen miles 
 from Shanghai, and have only fifty-seven tons of this miserable 
 stuff aboard to carry us to port. It begins to look like the affair 
 off the coast of Brazil last year; only on this occasion we have a 
 little more provisions aboard. 
 
 July 24th. — Nearly calm to-day, so that we made a little more on 
 our course; but still it looks doubtful, for unless we get a fair 
 wind it will be impossible for us to steam up to Shanghai, as we 
 have only eighteen tons of miserable coal aboard and are one hun- 
 dred and eighty miles from the city. 
 
 July 25. — Fortunately we had a fair wind, otherwise I know not 
 what would have happened to us for three or four days to come. 
 
 July 26th. — At eleven o'clock last night we anchored off Shanghai, 
 and very timely, as we had only half a ton of coal left. 
 
 July 30th. — This afternoon I went on shore and drove out in 
 the country for a few miles, and had a delightful drive through a 
 beautiful country. Stopped at the famous Bubbling Well, which 
 
UP THE YANGTSE RIVER 225 
 
 proved to be a miserable affair along the roadside — nothing peculiar 
 about it except a little bubble in the center of the water. 
 
 Aug. 1st. — This erening the Fire Department of Shanghai had a 
 trial of their fire engines on the Bund, and at the earnest request of 
 several American gentlemen I allowed forty of our men to go on 
 shore to work one of the engines against the others. The Bund 
 was crowded with people of all nationalities. The band in atten- 
 dance played all American tunes — although it was an English 
 band. At dark the engines returned, and all the Americans spent 
 the evening at the United States consulate. 
 
 Aug. 3d. — Spent all the forenoon yesterday in a dentist's chair, 
 much to my disgust. 
 
 Aug. 4th. — At noon two Chinese coolies were killed by lightning 
 near the ship. They were torn to atoms almost. I went out 
 driving in the early evening and later with ten or fifteen American 
 gentlemen attended the opening of a new Chinese theatre. We 
 remained only about half an hour, as we were disgusted with the 
 noise and actors. 
 
 Aug. 7th. — This evening attended a meeting of the Ancient 
 Landmark (Masonic) Lodge, it being entirely American. 
 
 Aug. 10th. — Having finished all preparations for leaving port, 
 we received on board Consul-General Seward and about a dozen 
 others, and at 1 p. m. started out of the harbor bound up the Yangtse 
 to Hankow. At sunset anchored in the river, as it was dangerous 
 to run at night. 
 
 Aug. 11th. — At daylight got under way and steamed up the 
 river. Most of the day we were in the broad part of the river, 
 scarcely being able to see either bank. What we could see was 
 very low and marshy. Toward evening the river began to narrow 
 and the land was more elevated and beautifully cultivated. At 
 9 p. M. we anchored, it being too dark to proceed further. 
 
 Aug. 12th (Sunday). — Got under way at daylight and at 9 a. m. 
 anchored, in order to communicate with the Chinese authorities 
 about some difficulty with regard to American property. 
 
 Aug. 13th. — It was 107 degrees in the shade all day and it 
 was impossible to keep comfortable in any position or place. 
 At 9 A. M. Mate T. J. Kelley died very suddenly. He was on deck 
 and went below feeling ill and expired in a few minutes. 
 
 Aug. 14th. — At daylight this morning I left the ship in charge 
 of the funeral party to bury Mr. Kelley. We had an exceedingly 
 
226 VISTING PORTS ON BUSINESS 
 
 difficult time in reaching the shore on account of the tremendous 
 current in the Yangtse — and after we had made a landing the 
 Chinese priests refused to allow me to bury him, but I was obliged 
 to do it. 
 
 Two or three cases of sunstroke to-day among our men, the 
 thermometer standing 108. At 6 p. M. I went on shore -with an 
 armed party of men as an escort to Gonsul-General Seward to 
 visit the authorities of the place. Made the visit, but finding that 
 we had a perfect fool to deal with we returned to the ship, with the 
 intention of going higher up the river. Everybody on board getting 
 sick from the excessive heat. 
 
 Aug. 15th. — At 1.45 A. M. Captain Townsend died very suddenly 
 of heat apoplexy. He had been exposed to the sun only a short 
 time the day before. His orders were to go up this miserable 
 river to Hankow. But now, as there was so much sickness on board 
 and being left in command, I decided to disregard these orders and 
 go to Japan for the health of all hands. At daylight I got under 
 way and steamed down the river in order to reach Shanghai 
 to-night, and after settling some business there, rejoin the Admiral 
 in Japan. The business up the river is not settled, but I do not 
 think I would be justified in remaining in this sickly climate. 
 
 At 8 p. M. we came to anchor off the consulate at Shanghai. 
 Eyery vessel in the harbor and all the foreign houses on shore 
 joined in half masting their flags. On account of the excessive 
 heat the funeral could not take place until late in the evening. 
 At 6.15 p. M. the procession left the ship. After getting clear of 
 her side we fired minute guns. At the landing we met a very 
 large number of citizens, who joined in the procession. The service 
 was held in the English chapel by an English clergyman. At the 
 grave we fired three volleys over the remains and returned to the 
 ship. The pall-bearers were the English and French naval com- 
 manders, Gonsul-General Seward and the heads of all the large 
 American firms in Shanghai. Foreigners of all nationalities joined 
 in our grief during the solemn ceremonies on shore. 
 
 Aug. 18th. — At 4 p. M., having bid adieu to everyone, I got 
 under way and steamed down the river. Just as we got to the 
 mouth of the Woosung one of the men died of fever contracted 
 while up the Yangtse. As it was not right to go to sea under these 
 circumstances I anchored just outside, in order to give him a burial 
 on shore to-morrow. 
 
AT YOKOHAMA AND YEDDO 227 
 
 Aug. 19th (Sunday). — I sent a boat at sunset last evening up to 
 Woosung and another at one o'clock this morning, in order to get 
 permission from the French and Chinese authorities to bury our 
 dead on shore. The boat returned at seven o'clock this morning 
 and reported that it was impossible to get the desired permission. 
 I had not time to return to Shanghai, so we got underway and 
 steamed out to sea. At four o'clock this afternoon, being well 
 out to sea and in deep water, I called " All hands to bury the dead." 
 The funeral service at sea was read by the surgeon, and on its com- 
 pletion we resumed our course. 
 
 Aug. 22d. — Steaming on our course at the rate of fourteen knots 
 "over the ground." We had a tremendous current, which put us 
 over fifty miles ahead of our reckoning. To-night will be one of 
 great anxiety to us, for it is very dark and we are obliged to run 
 among rocks and shoals. 
 
 Aug. 23d. — Last night was a troublesome one. I steamed ahead 
 untU one o'clock, when, thinking that we were near islands, I 
 headed her to the west under low steam to await daylight. It 
 was fortunate for us that we did so, for at daylight rocks and shoals 
 were but a short distance off, showing that we had run far enough. 
 Steaming all day along and among the islands at the entrance to 
 the bay of Yeddo and at 10 a. m. anchored off Yokohama. 
 
 Aug. 25th. — Received a visit from some Japanese officials, one of 
 whom was attached to the embassy that visited the United States 
 some few years ago. 
 
 Aug. 27th. — In the afternoon went on shore to see the sights of 
 Yokohama — saw nearly all of them. Later in the afternoon drove 
 out in the country. It was the pleasantest drive I have had in a 
 long time. We drove through a most beautiful valley, very highly 
 cultivated, and with magnificent scenery about us. Japan is a 
 lovely country. 
 
 Aug. 31st. — At ten o'clock the fleet got under way and steamed 
 in " line ahead " to Yeddo. We all went as an escort to install our 
 minister at the legation. After anchoring off Yeddo the minister 
 and his family were landed and escorted to the legation by the 
 marines of the squadron formed in one company. 
 
 Sept. 2d (Sunday). — Went on shore to-day to see the great capital 
 of Japan. As soon as we landed we met some " two-sworded " 
 officials and they conducted us to the American legation. After 
 waiting there a short time we started out to see the place. As 
 
228 VISITING PORTS ON BUSINESS 
 
 Yeddo is not yet an open port no one but naval officers and those 
 belonging to the different legations are allowed to land and visit 
 the city. With us even, we could not go anywhere without our 
 guards, which consisted of a two-sworded Jap for each officer — 
 and no one officer was allowed to leave or stray from the party, for 
 the reason that if a foreigner is alone and not protected by one of 
 the escorts he will be murdered in the streets; and then there is 
 nothing to console one's friends but the "indemnity." 
 
 While on shore the officers ascended a hillock a short distance 
 from the legation, where a magnificent view of the city was obtained. 
 As far as the eye could see, in all directions, was nothing but 
 houses, temples and the different palaces of the Tycoons. The 
 sight was grand, and well paid one for the trouble of ascending 
 ninety-seven steps — very steep at that. Yeddo is the finest city 
 I have seen in the East. If one could only go where his inclinations 
 direct, instead of following the guides and fear no danger, you 
 could see magnificent sights. As it is you are conducted to the 
 legation, from there to certain parts of the city and then you are 
 obliged to return again from whence you came. The Japanese 
 are as different from the Chinese in manners and customs as we are. 
 
 Sept. 5th. — Commander Robert Wilson Shufeldt of the Hartford 
 reported on board for the command of the Wachusett. 
 
 Sept. 6th. — The Japanese high officials paid a formal visit to the 
 Admiral and were received in state. The flagship went through 
 all the exercises for their benefit. 
 
 Sept. 7th. — At 10 A. M. the fleet got under way, steamed down 
 the bay and anchored off Yokohama. 
 
CHAPTER XXVII 
 
 HUNTING FOR PIRATES 
 
 Philip's journal op a cruise 
 
 SEPT. 13th. — At 9 A. M. we got under way and steamed out of 
 Yokohama harbor bound for Nagasaki. It was blowing 
 fresh from the northeast all day, and at dark we were 
 obliged to stop engines and bring her head on the wind, but in 
 doing so we carried away the fore topsail and fore sail. Indications 
 of a very bad night. 
 
 Sept. 14th. — It was very bad all last night and to-day. At 3 
 p. M., being still eighty miles from the entrance of the Inland Sea 
 and finding that it was impossible to reach it, we put about and 
 anchored in Oshima harbor. 
 
 Sept. 15th. — Blowing a gale of wind all day, with every sign of 
 an approaching typhoon. Made snug for the worst. 
 
 Sept. 16th. — Last night was the worst I have ever experienced 
 on board ship — especially at anchor in a snug harbor. At dark 
 the wind blew a perfect hurricane. Although we were almost 
 surrounded by high mountains we were obliged to let go all anchors 
 and to use the engines, steaming half speed, to keep from going 
 ashore. At times it blew so hard that it was next to impossible to 
 walk on the deck against the wind. Several of our sails blew 
 away, although they were extra lashed and secured. At 1 a. m., 
 at the height of the typhoon, there was quite an electrical phenom- 
 ena; the heaven to the northeast seemed to be an immense blaze, 
 so that we could distinctly see all around the harbor and on shore. 
 At daylight the gale broke up and at 4 p. m. we steamed out to sea. 
 
 Sept. 17th. — We entered the Inland Sea of Japan at daylight, and 
 steamed all day among the beautiful islands and came to anchor at 
 dark. The main land on both sides, and the islands also, are 
 under a high state of cultivation and are thickly populated, judging 
 from the number of towns we saw. The scenery is grand and 
 magnificent. 
 
230 HUNTING FOR PIRATES 
 
 Sept. 18th. — Steaming all day down the Inland Sea among the 
 different islands. The scenery on both sides was magnificent, all 
 the islands being highly cultivated, and the shores were covered 
 with towns and cities at intervals all the way. 
 
 Sept. 19th. — At daylight we got under way and started through 
 the Straits of Shimonoseki. The Prince of Satsuma and others 
 are in rebellion against the government and are fighting fiercely. 
 The Japs are on each side of the Straits, and as we steamed along 
 we could see towns and cities on fire (burned by the rebels) and 
 the ruins of a number of others. And when in the narrowest part 
 of the straits we passed the Japanese fleet at anchor, and as we 
 passed each vessel she saluted by dipping her colors. 
 
 A few days ago the rebels fired on an English gunboat while 
 passing. We anticipated something of the same sort and had the 
 ship cleared for action and were ready for it. But instead of firing, 
 the rebels saluted us in the European fashion. We saw portions 
 of the armies of different parties and nearly all of their artillery. 
 I was much surprised to see about twelve of our Dahlgren howitzers 
 among the number. After leaving the straits we steamed down 
 the coast and came to anchor. 
 
 Sept. 20th. — At two o'clock in the morning we again got under 
 way and steamed down the coast. At 10 a. m. we passed through 
 Spex Straits. These straits are between a couple of islands on 
 the western coast, and by going through them we cut off about 
 thirty miles of the distance from Shimonoseki to Nagasaki. The 
 straits are very narrow and the current runs at a frightful rate; 
 which, with the sharp, quick turns you are obliged to make, makes 
 it quite dangerous for a ship of this size. In the straits is the 
 grandest and most magnificent scenery I ever saw. We thought we 
 saw something beautiful in coming through the Inland Sea, but 
 nothing to compare with Spex for wildness and magnificence — 
 yet every available plot of ground was under a high state of culti- 
 vation. If one had the time and means, it would amply repay 
 the trouble to come to Japan from the most distant part of the 
 world to see the scenery of Japan. 
 
 At 4 p. M. we came to anchor in the harbor of Nagasaki. This 
 is a fine, land-locked bay, with beautiful scenery all around. I am 
 exceedingly sorry that we are destined to see so little of this lovely 
 country. I wish the whole cruise could be spent here instead of 
 on the coast of China. 
 
AT NAGASAKI 231 
 
 Sept. 21st. — Went on shore in the afternoon^ and in company 
 with some American gentlemen we saw everything that was to be 
 seen in Nagasaki. Had a jolly time. The sights would surprise 
 any European who had never been fortunate enough to visit 
 Japan. 
 
 Sept. 22d. — Informed everybody on shore and afloat, through 
 the different consuls, that we intended to sail for China on Monday 
 and offering to take their mail, etc., to Hong Kong. All men of 
 war do this as an accommodation to the residents, as there is no 
 regular mail communication out here between the different ports 
 in the East. 
 
 Sept. 23d. — Several Japanese officials visited the ship to-day 
 and inspected her internal arrangements and construction. They 
 were the most intelligent and observing people I have seen. Two 
 or three of them were in the United States with their embassy and 
 are quite familiar and sociable. 
 
 Sept. 24th. — At daylight this morning the weather still looked 
 very threatening and we concluded not to go to sea. But after 
 breakfast it began to clear up, so we got under way and steamed 
 out of the harbor for Hong Kong. 
 
 Sept. 27th. — Had a very pleasant run to the coast of China, 
 which we sighted last night. But this morning it was blowing a 
 gale and it lasted all day. As we were running before it we did not 
 feel so much of its force, but at sunset we were obliged to close 
 reef all square sail (wind and sea rapidly increasing) and at 9 
 p. M. we had to batten down the hatches to keep the water out of 
 the hold. We were then in the worst part of the Formosa channel, 
 about twenty-five miles from land. Very heavy seas coming 
 inboard frequently. 
 
 Sept. 28th. — Blowing a gale of wind all night, very heavy sea 
 and we took in large quantities of water. Shortly after daylight 
 the gale moderated and by noon it was almost calm. This morn- 
 ing we found that we had overrun our reckoning about sixty miles, 
 owing to the strong current and heavy "set of the sea." About 
 sunset we passed through a fleet of about three hundred Chinese 
 junks close together. 
 
 Sept. 29th. — At 10 a. m. we anchored in the harbor of Hong 
 Kong. 
 
 Sept. 30th. — News has just been received of the loss of a mail 
 steamer and great damage to others in that typhoon we were in 
 
232 HUNTING FOR PIRATES 
 
 a week or more ago. It was very fortunate for us that we were 
 safely anchored in a snug harbor before the height of the storm 
 struck us. 
 
 Oct. 1st. — Busy all day preparing to escort a number of American 
 merchant vessels well outside of Hong Kong to protect them 
 from pirates. It is so bad now that it is really dangerous for any 
 merchantman to leave. No longer than last Saturday, just after 
 we arrived, a merchant vessel got under way and had scarcely got 
 outside the harbor when she was boarded by pirates and all hands 
 on board were most brutally murdered — and in sight of one of 
 the best English colonies. 
 
 Oct. 2d. — One of the Hong Kong papers came out with a rather 
 severe article to-day in relation to the part we are taking in the 
 suppression of piracy on the coast — especially off this port. 
 
 Oct: 3d-4th. — Continued preparations for escorting the American 
 merchantman Parsee out of the port. 
 
 Oct. 5th. — Went on shore to buy some curios, but got badly 
 cheated by John Chinaman. Returned to the ship " a wiser man," 
 etc., and with resolutions to buy no more.' 
 
 Oct. 6th. — Our store ship Supply left the harbor for Yokohama, 
 and the Parsee with her for San Francisco. As the route of the 
 two vessels is the same for a long distance, we did not convoy the 
 Parsee out. The pirates will be much disappointed, as they have 
 been waiting for that ship a long time. She has a valuable cargo 
 of opium. 
 
 Oct. 13th. — At 9 A. M. got under way and steamed out of the 
 harbor. After a fine run we anchored in the harbor of Macao at 
 2 p. M., where we found thirty Portuguese and Spanish ships loading 
 with coolies for the western continent. 
 
 Oct. 15th. — In the evening as many officers as could be 
 spared attended the Governor's ball in the Dom Pedro Theatre. 
 The steamer from Hong Kong was filled with passengers — all 
 coming over here on account of the ball. 
 
 Oct. 16th. — We got to sea early this morning for a short cruise in 
 search of pirates. At 3 p. m. we came to anchor under the island 
 of Concok. Formerly this was a great resort for pirates, and we 
 have stopped here in hopes of falling in with some of them to-night. 
 We are in a snug little bay which reminds one of descriptions given 
 in some novels of the haunts of pirates. 
 
 Oct. 17th. — After firing at some rocks with our great guns this 
 
A FLEET OF WAR JUNKS 233 
 
 morning for target practice, we put to sea and cruised along the 
 islands. Our orders are to keep moving. 
 
 Oct. 18th. — Cruising among the islands and at 4 p. m. anchored 
 in Lymoon Pass. Went on shore in the evening on the beach and 
 had a rifle shooting match with Captain Shufeldt. Fortunately I 
 came out ahead, but we will go again until he beats me. 
 
 Oct. 19th. — Spent all day at Lymoon Pass, just outside of Hong 
 Kong, waiting for some merchantman needing convoy or some 
 pirate that needed our attention. 
 
 Oct. 20th. — At 11 A. M. got under way and anchored off Hong 
 Kong in the afternoon. 
 
 Oct. 21st. — Blowing a heavy gale; several ships in the harbor 
 dragging their anchors and making heavy weather of it. Small 
 sampans have hard work to keep afloat and one capsized just astern 
 of us. 
 
 Oct. 22d. — Blowing hard all night and to-day. One or two ves- 
 sels came into port dismasted in a typhoon. Vessels in the harbor 
 were at " odds and ends " this morning, having drifted and dragged 
 all around last night. 
 
 Oct. 26th-. — To-day a fleet of Chinese war junks came in and 
 anchored, being dressed out with flags of all colors and descrip- 
 tions flying from every available spot, besides having their guns 
 all trimmed with fancy red ribbons. After anchoring they all 
 saluted the English white ensign, and after some time had elapsed 
 the English Commodore condescended to return the salute; not by 
 saluting any Chinese flag, but by hoisting his own pennant and 
 firing under it ! 
 
 Oct. 27th. — ^Every day some vessel has come into port dismasted 
 or otherwise injured by the violence of the galer To-day a poor 
 little Yankee schooner came in just barely floating, with nearly 
 everything but her hull lost at sea — but with her colors flying. 
 The weather for the past four weeks has been frightful, and the 
 gales and typhoons outside have been unmerciful to all vessels 
 that were so unfortunate as to be at sea. 
 
 Oct. 28th. — Two mail steamers came in to-day, but I was rhuch 
 disappointed in not receiving a letter from home. The saying 
 that "No news is good news" is very good in theory, but when 
 you get as far as this from home you anxiously look for the mail 
 steamer and then, if you receive no letter, you are ''out of sorts" 
 and miserable for days and weeks to come. 
 
234 HUNTING FOR PIRATES 
 
 Oct. 29th. — In the evening went on shore and attended an 
 amateur theatrical performance in the garrison. It was original 
 in all its details and we enjoyed it very much. 
 
 Nov. 3d. — At daylight this morning we got under way and stood 
 out to sea. At 2 p. m. we anchored off the town of Pinghoi. We 
 sent a boat ashore with an officer to communicate with the chief 
 mandarin in regard to an act of piracy committed here a few days 
 ago. At 5 p. M. the old mandarin came on board to see the Captain. 
 We brought with us from Hong Kong two Chinamen who had been 
 robbed here and we turned them over to the mandarin, who prom- 
 ised that justice would be done them — and I have no doubt that 
 the old fellow will take their heads off for complaining to "foreign 
 devils" instead of to him direct. 
 
 Nov. 4th. — At daylight got under way and steamed slowly 
 along the coast. The Chinese "admiral" saluted us with three 
 guns, which we returned with our 100-pounder rifles. 
 
 Nov. 5th. — Steaming all night along the coast, close inshore 
 and keeping a bright lookout for rocks and shoals. At 10 a. m. 
 entered a river and at noon anchored off the city of Swatow. This 
 is another miserable place to remain at for any length of time. 
 
 Nov. 6th. — Went on shore this morning and exercised with pistol 
 and rifles. In the evening visited the Chinese city across the 
 river. Walked over it and found it to be the dirtiest place we have 
 seen in the East. 
 
 Nov. 8th. — All the forenoon we exercised the boats in different 
 evolutions about the harbor, ending up with a very spirited boat 
 race with all the boats — thus breaking the monotony of our stay 
 here. 
 
 Nov. 10th. — Last night the Chinese war fleet that we had met 
 off Pinghoi came in and anchored 'mid firing of guns and fireworks, 
 with other " chin-chinning the joss pigeon." At 10 a.m. we steamed 
 out to sea, bound up the coast to look after some pirates that were 
 reported as having a rendezvous in the vicinity. 
 
 Nov. 11th. — After breakfast we ran up the coast of the island of 
 Namoa and anchored off a piratical town. Sent a boat ashore 
 to the village, but discovered nothing suspicious. Our men attracted 
 large crowds of natives wherever they went. We are expecting 
 the old Chinese admiral with his war fleet up here from Swatow. 
 Then we may, with his assistance, ferret out something worth 
 looking after. 
 
A CHINESE INTERVIEW 235 
 
 Nov. 12th. — At 9 A. M. got under way and steamed out to sea. 
 At 3 p. M., finding that we were making very little headway against 
 the monsoon, we ran in and anchored off the town of Tongseng, 
 where we found an English gunboat at anchor — also out in search 
 of piratical craft. 
 
 Nov. 13th. — I went on shore this morning with an armed boat 
 crew to make an official call on the chief mandarin in regard to 
 pirates in this section of the coast. After arriving at his residence 
 and sending in Captain Shufeldt's Chinese card, he would not 
 receive me — never having had the pleasure of meeting a foreigner 
 before, face to face. I then sent in word that I was "peaceably 
 inclined " and wished only to say a few words with him on business. 
 He then sent out word that he had gone "in the country and would 
 not return for four days." I sent word to him then that "that 
 was all humbug" and that I desired to see him or his representa- 
 tive; and after waiting half an hour, sending messages back and 
 forth, he finally wanted to know "how the foreigners met each 
 other," or in other words, how they shook hands. After answering 
 this silly question I was admitted to his presence, and on the 
 strength of that last question, I walked up to him and presented 
 my hand. Chinese-like, he gave me his left hand. 
 
 After concluding the interview I asked permission to go over 
 such portions of the city as I desired and asked for a guide. He 
 readily consented, and after sipping a cup of tea with him I left. 
 I saw all I desired of the city in a very short time, it being very 
 dirty. I was followed by a large number of men, women and 
 children, but was not molested. In the "rounds" I visited a 
 joss-house, and at the request of the priest gave a little coin to 
 " joss " to keep the devil from visiting the innocent people after I 
 had left him. As the old priest at once began a "chin-chin" to 
 the "joss-devil," I suppose no evil happened to them after we 
 " foreign devils " left. 
 
 Nov. 14th. — It was blowing so hard to-day that we did not put 
 to sea, preferring to remain in our snug harbor until the wind and 
 sea moderate. In the evening the English mail steamer Mona 
 put into this bay for shelter. She is from Hong Kong, bound up 
 the coast, but it was blowing so hard and there was such a heavy 
 head sea on that she made little headway and put in here for 
 relief. 
 
 Nov. 15th. — The Mona got under way and proceeded to sea, but 
 
236 HUNTING FOR PIRATES 
 
 on getting outside she found the weather so bad that she returned 
 to her anchorage. 
 
 Nov. 17th. — At 7 A. M., it having moderated, we got under way 
 and steamed out of the harbor. As soon as we rounded the head- 
 land we met a very heavy chop sea and a strong monsoon, so that 
 we were obliged to steam at full power in order to make any head- 
 way against it. The English gunboat got under way with us, but 
 finding it too rough, she went about and returned to her anchorage. 
 We arrived at Amoy about five o'clock, after a short but rough 
 passage, and were glad to get our anchors down in a snug harbor. 
 
 Nov. 18th (Sunday). — At divine service to-day we had a sermon 
 by the Rev. Mr. Van Dom, an American missionary. He gave us 
 an excellent sermon, which we were all gratified to hear, it being 
 the second opportunity we have had of hearing a sermon on board 
 since leaving the United States. In the afternoon went with some 
 American gentlemen for a walk back of the city, and there saw the 
 grandest sights in nature I have ever seen. 
 
 Nov. 19th. — Went on shore in the morning with some officers 
 for a general exploration of the city, as we generally do on arriving 
 in a strange place. Found Amoy to be the dirtiest and filthiest 
 place I think we have yet visited. It has a population of over 
 three hundred thousand inhabitants, very closely stowed. The 
 streets are exceedingly narrow, the widest not over ten feet wide, 
 consequently the buildings seem to be almost one mass thrown 
 together. 
 
 Nov. 20th. — 'This morning five of our mess went on shore for 
 "a day of it." We each got a Chinese pony, and with a guide 
 started out to see Amoy and its suburbs, We rode over thirty 
 miles out, and had a jolly time of it arriong ourselves and with 
 the Chinamen we met. Being In citizen's dress we could do as 
 we pleased almost, and as a consequence made "John look." 
 Being unfortunate enough to be perched upon an Amoy "racer" 
 (but a blind one) I got thrown once or twice — much to the amuse- 
 ment of the rest of the party. My heaviest fall was when I rode 
 my bUnd " racer " up a flight of steep steps. 
 
 Nov. 25th (Sunday). — To-day the Rev. Mr. Talmadge preached 
 to us one of the best sermons I have ever heard. He is a mission- 
 ary, but very wealthy. 
 
 Nov. 28th. — At 8 a. m. began to get under way and after an hour 
 of hard work succeeded in getting up one of our anchors, but on 
 
ATTACKED BY PIRATES 237 
 
 coming awash we found that we had hove up one of the Cormorant's 
 anchors (an English war ship which had put into the same harbor) 
 with our own. With a great deal of trouble we succeeded in clear- 
 ing them and then put out to sea. Blowing a northeast gale, 
 with a very heavy and irregular sea. To-night cold and very 
 dark with increasing gale, but the ship behaving beautifully under 
 the circumstances. 
 
 Nov. 29th. — At 3 p. m. anchored in Hong Kong harbor. 
 
 Dec. 1st. — Last night the American merchant ship Powhatan 
 was attacked by pirates while at anchor in this harbor. The 
 pirates were driven off only after some of them were kUled. This 
 is another piece of high-handed robbery directly in the face of 
 the English authorities. Why all these pirates are not hung I 
 can't imagine, for they are becoming bolder and worse every day. 
 
 (Philip's Journal Continued in Chapter XXIX) 
 
CHAPTER XXVIII 
 
 IN COMMAND AT A PICNIC 
 
 Marcus H. Rogers 
 
 WHILE the report of the ahnost sudden death of 
 Rear-Admiral John W. Phihp in New York 
 was heard with profound sorrow all over the 
 country, there was a deeper sense of sadness felt by a 
 group of personal friends in Berkshire, who became 
 intimately acquainted with him some years ago through 
 the pleasant associations and experiences of camp Ufe, 
 enjoyed by about twenty-five young people of Great 
 Barrington, during two weeks of happy memory spent 
 on the shore of Lake Garfield, in the near-by town of 
 Monterey. 
 
 Captain Philip, as he was then, came to Great Barring- 
 ton in July, 1877, to visit his cousin, Mrs. J. F. Sanford, 
 and it was upon her suggestion that the camping party 
 was organized, and she became its chaperone, with Mrs. 
 Rogers as the only other married lady in the group. 
 Five ordinary tents were provided, together with a 
 large show-tent, supported by two center poles, which 
 became the dining room and drawing room for the 
 entire party. 
 
 Naturally of a retiring disposition, modest and unas- 
 suming, Captain Philip had remained a quiet member 
 of the party, when something happened which brought 
 him to the front, and demonstrated his future record of 
 being found ready for any and every emergency. Early 
 
A SUDDEN STOEM 239 
 
 one morning the rumble of distant thunder gave warning 
 of an approaching storm. Who has not seen it — to 
 admire, or to take measure of himself — the sudden and 
 mighty upheaval of cloudy masses, like the coils of 
 gigantic serpents rolling and writhing in deadly embrace, 
 while the sable banners of the Storm King overspread 
 the sky as he marshals his mysterious forces for the 
 grand assault? 
 
 The black clouds were rapidly advancing, when the 
 first whirl of the coming tempest blew the large tent 
 completely down! Here was a serious predicament, 
 with the sharp flashes of lightning and the nearing 
 thunder peals foretelling the coming deluge. The sudden 
 catastrophe had for the moment urmerved everybody in 
 the camp except one man — and that man was Captain 
 Philip. Instantly recognizing the necessity of leader- 
 ship and action, he assumed command, and gave his 
 orders to this one and that, imparting something of his 
 own calmness and confidence to those around him, and 
 he seemed, as the incident is recorded in my memory, as 
 he might have been on a warship going into battle — 
 so completely was his personality lost in the commander 
 and the duty before him. 
 
 And it did seem like a contest with the elements, to 
 re-erect the large tent in such a gale. But so quickly 
 was the work accomplished under his directions, that 
 it was put up in proper shape just in time to protect 
 the campers, for the last new guy rope had hardly been 
 secured, when the storm seemed to break directly over 
 us, with a tremendous downfall of rain. But before 
 the deep sense of relief and thankfulness which every- 
 body felt could find expression, Captain Philip, in the 
 gentle kindness of his heart, apologized for having taken 
 it upon himself to give directions! A verdict of for- 
 
240 IN COMMAND AT A PICNIC 
 
 giveness was promptly rendered, and he had won the 
 warm admiration of everybody present. 
 
 And his companions came to know and appreciate 
 the rare worth of the man, the gentleness and nobUity 
 of his nature, as the world knows and honors him to-day. 
 He was a most jovial companion, and heartily enjoyed 
 the almost constant flow of fun and frolic, for there were 
 some wits and wags in the party, and some to manage 
 entertainments, adding much to the life and enjoyment 
 of the camp. Captain Philip was himself a most deUght- 
 ful talker, but the members found it was not easy to get 
 him to talk much of his personal experiences. 
 
 So they used to play little games upon him, by having 
 some young lady who might attract his attention manage 
 to get him started upon some subject connected with 
 his command of the Woodruff scientific expedition 
 around the world, and then the others would quietly join 
 the group, one by one, and he would almost uncon- 
 sciously hold them all charmed for an hour with accounts 
 of his experiences in China or Japan. And then it was 
 rare fun to observe the look of confused surprise when 
 he came to a stop, and realized the large additions to 
 the size of his audience ! 
 
 The camp was named "Camp Con-Tent," and several 
 marriage engagements were credited to the opportunities 
 for companionship it afforded. One young lady, brim 
 fuU of fun, pretended ownership of the several hammocks 
 which were swung in a grove close by. She warranted 
 them to hold two, and "rented" them by the hour, and 
 made a great deal of fun in notifying her patrons when 
 "time's up!" One of the fish stories published in "The 
 Courier" at the time, was to the effect that one gentleman 
 who had started out at dayhght one morning with the 
 avowed purpose of providing a supply of fish for break- 
 
" JAMIE WILL BRING UP THE REAR" 241 
 
 fast, came back rather late, triumphantly bringing "a 
 pickerel that lacked only a foot and a half of being 
 twenty inches long!" 
 
 Captain PhiUp was accompanied from Catskill by a 
 niece and nephew. Jamie was then a bright and typical 
 boy, out for all the fun he could get, and though there 
 were many demands made upon him, he pretended to 
 avoid as much labor as possible, and he wouldn't hurry. 
 
 One day when returning from an expedition in the 
 boats on the lake, there were many things to be carried 
 up to the camp, such as baskets, cushions, chairs and 
 wraps, and one camper volunteered to bring one thing 
 and another to bring something else, until ample pro- 
 vision had been made. Captain Phihp taking a full share, 
 when he quietly remarked, with a merry twinkle in his 
 eye, that "Jamie wiU bring up the rear!" 
 
 There were many visitors to the camp, for it was a 
 famous affair at the time, cards of invitation were 
 printed, and dozens of the most prominent people from 
 Great Barrington were often entertained in a single day. 
 Two large photographs were taken, one showing the 
 entire camp with the lake and the landscape, and the 
 other a group of the participants in front of the largest 
 tent. 
 
 These pictures have always been most highly prized, 
 but they will now be more than ever valued, since 
 Admiral Philip, after a life of such honor and great 
 achievement, coupled with a nobility of character which 
 has made his name forever glorious in the annals of his 
 country, has been called to his final rest and reward. 
 
CHAPTER XXIX 
 
 BUSY ON WAR-LIKE ERRANDS 
 
 Philip's journal of a cruise 
 
 DEC. 4th. — Hong Kong — The flagship Hartford came in 
 from Japan yesterday and to-day our surgeon, Dr. Page, 
 was transferred to her and Dr. Penrose of the flagship 
 sent to us in his place. Several of the Hartford's ofiicers came on 
 board and spent the evening with me. Had a jolly time of it, 
 they all being old schoolmates at Annapolis. 
 
 Dec. 6th. — At 2 p. m. the Admiral came on board to take a look 
 at the Wachusett, semi-officially. He called all the officers up in 
 the cabin to see if we had the new "Welles' regulation cap," as 
 per orders of the Hon. Secretary of the Navy. He did not admire 
 the cap, but seemed well pleased with the ship. 
 
 Dec. 7th. — This morning we ran up the Canton River and 
 anchored off Whampoa, where we are to go into dock to replace 
 our copper and for calking. We were immediately surrounded by 
 hundreds of sampans eager to get the ship's washing and to attend 
 to the ship during our stay. 
 
 Dec. 8th. — The ship surrounded all day by sampans innumer- 
 able, their occupants eager to get on board to sell their trade and 
 others watching an opportunity to steal something — even to the 
 copper off the ship's bottom. Whampoa is the most noted place 
 along the coast for this class of thieves, and we have to be very 
 vigilant, day and night, to keep them away from the ship's sides. 
 
 Dec. 10th. — Went into dry dock. At 5 p. m. the funeral services 
 over the remains of one of our men took place on shore, the man 
 having been drowned in the river last night. The Rev. Mr. 
 Gray, of Canton, kindly offered his services. He is one of the 
 best missionaries we have met in the East. 
 
 Dec. 11th. — News came to-day of the entire destruction of 
 Yokohama by fire, leaving only one or two houses standing. 
 
DIFFICULT RIVEE NAVIGATION 243 
 
 Dec. 15th. — Came out of dry dock to-day, having given the ship 
 a thorough overhauling, inside as well as outside, while in the dock. 
 Dec. 16th (Sunday). — In the evening went on shore and attended 
 divine service in a private house, the Rev. Mr. Gray officiating. 
 He comes down from Canton every Sunday evening to preach to 
 the few Europeans living here, at great trouble and exposure on 
 the river from the Chinese. 
 
 Dec. 20th. — At 8 a. m. took one of the cutters and went with 
 several of the officers up to Canton to attend the "races." These 
 races at Canton are strictly private; no one but gentlemen ride, 
 or own, ponies. At the request of the committee I allowed our 
 boat's crew to act as a guard around the race course. The sailors 
 behaved unusually well, and rendered good service in preserving 
 order. We left Canton about 8 p. m., and after a tedious pull of 
 nearly six hours, got back to the ship about two o'clock in the 
 morning, quite tired out. At this, like other gatherings I have 
 attended in the East, the handsomest lady present was an American. 
 Dec. 22d. — Received orders from the Admiral to report for duty 
 at Hong Kong immediately. As the Ashuelot has been seventeen 
 days out from Manila, and as there is some anxiety about her 
 safety, I think we will be ordered to search for her between this 
 and Manila. 
 
 Dec. 23d. — Got under way in charge of a pilot. We had some 
 trouble in getting clear of the shipping. We ran over a dock 
 buoy and a sampan and then went on finely until 3.30 a. m., when 
 the pilot ran us high and dry aground about fifteen miles below 
 Whampoa. Worked hard all night to get afloat, but without 
 success. About noon the Yankee tug Ldttle Orphan came to 
 our assistance, and at 2.30 p. m. we finally got the ship off the bank. 
 Dec. 24th. — Ran into Hong Kong and anchored near the flag- 
 ship. This being Christmas eve we tried to spend it agreeably, 
 and with some of the Hartford's officers managed to have a pleasant 
 time. 
 
 Dec. 25th. — This, of course, was a holiday, not only on shore 
 but afloat. We were busy all day in making and receiving calls. 
 Although the day should have been kept quietly, yet I fear some 
 of the sailors experienced rather a "jolly time" of it. 
 
 Dec. 26th. — We had a court-martial to-day for the trial of two 
 of our men who deserted in Shanghai last July. We have lost 
 sixty men or more since leaving Boston. 
 
244 BUSY ON WAR-LIKE ERRANDS 
 
 Dec. 27th. — In the evening went on shore and attended the Masonic 
 banquet and the installation of the W. M. for the ensuing year. I 
 met His Excellency, the Governor of Hong Kong, Sir Richard 
 MacDonald, K. G. B., at the lodge — but there we were equal. 
 
 Dec. 29th. — Went to sea to-day, bound for the north. As we 
 are obliged to "butt against" a strong northeast monsoon I sent 
 down all the yards and housed the topmasts, so as to offer as little 
 resistance to the wind as possible. Steaming close in to the coast 
 to-night so as to get smooth water. 
 
 Dec. 31st. — Steaming along the coast yesterday and to-day. 
 We are now in the Formosa channel. It is so hazy that you 
 could not see land at four miles, and not having been able to get 
 an observation it makes it rather uncomfortable navigating 
 to-night. 
 
 Jan. 1st, 1867. — It began blowing strong this morning, with a 
 rapidly increasing wind and sea and with every appearance of bad 
 weather. We "butted head to it" until 3 p. m., when we ran 
 behind an island and anchored. To-night it is blowing a gale, 
 and had we not anchored we would have had a very rough night 
 of it. As it is we are comfortable. 
 
 Jan. 3d. — Heavy gale all day yesterday. To-day it moderated 
 and we resumed our course northward, but made little headway 
 against the monsoon. 
 
 Jan. 5th. — Arrived in the Yangtse this evening after a slow 
 run up the coast. 
 
 Jan. 6th. — No sooner had we anchored off the American consulate 
 at Shanghai this morning than all our old American friends came on 
 board to welcome us. This place is thoroughly American, and 
 seems more like home than any other place on this station. 
 
 Jan. 8th. — Busy taking in coal and provisions yesterday and 
 to-day. This evening visited the Ancient Landmark (Masonic) 
 Lodge and witnssed the initiation of two of our officers. 
 
 Jan. 11th. — Put to sea this morning, steaming northward. 
 Every appearance of a snowstorm this afternoon. 
 
 Jan. 13th (Sunday). — Passed through the Yellow Sea yesterday 
 and entered the Gulf of Pechili to-day. As we could not reach Che- 
 foo to-night, and as there was every indication of bad weather, we 
 anchored in the bay of Wei-hai-wei. We were very fortunate in 
 making this anchorage, for it is very stormy out in the gulf 
 to-night. 
 
A RUN UP TO COREA 245 
 
 Jan. 14th. — Although it was very stormy this morning, we 
 again got under way and anchored under Chefo Bluff this afternoon. 
 Very cold all day, the thermometer standing at 20 degrees. 
 
 Jan. 16th. — Very cold and snowing hard, both yesterday and 
 to-day. Captain Shufeldt paid an official visit to the Chinese 
 authorities to-day. We had to keep up a high pressure of steam 
 on the boilers in order to keep warm on board. 
 
 Jan. 20th. — So cold the last three days that it was almost impos- 
 sible to keep warm on board. 
 
 Jan. 21st. — This morning we received on board two pilots for 
 the coast of Corea and the Rev. Mr. Gorbett to act as an interpreter 
 on our visit to Corea. Got under way and steamed tor the entrance 
 of the harbor, but finding it blowing very hard outside, with a very 
 heavy dust storm, we came to anchor again under Chefoo Bluff to 
 await more favorable weather. And it was very fortunate for us 
 that we did so, for just before we anchored some part of the 
 machinery broke, which would have disabled our motive power 
 in a wild storm. 
 
 Jan. 23d. — We left Chefoo early yesterday morning, crossed the 
 Gulf of Pechili and at daylight this morning sighted the coast of 
 Corea. We steamed in for the land with guns all cast loose, 
 ready for instant action, for the Coreans are well known for their 
 hostility toward all foreigners. Passed the islands known as the " Sir 
 James Hall's Group" and entered an unknown bay. As we had 
 no charts or idea whatever about this bay we had to advance very 
 cautiously, there being from four to twenty fathoms at different 
 casts of the lead, and the tide rises and falls about eight fathoms, 
 or forty-eight feet. Finally we were obliged to anchor and send a 
 boat out to find a safe anchorage, and having found one for the 
 night we came-to behind an island in the mouth of the Hong Kin. 
 
 We came over here to communicate with the Corean authorities 
 in regard to the murder of the General Sherman's crew. While 
 waiting an answer from the shore we intend to survey the bay — 
 which is not on the present charts — and will call it for the future 
 "Wachusett Bay." Some Coreans came on board after we had 
 anchored — all curiosity, this being the first steamer or ship they 
 had ever seen. In fact, they had never before seen white people. 
 If it was not so cold we might have had a very pleasant time. 
 
 Jan. 24th. — After breakfast an officer was sent with Mr. Corbett 
 to find some one who would carry a dispatch to the mandarin of 
 the district. After a great deal of trouble they succeeded in hiring 
 
246 BUSY ON WAR-LIKE ERRANDS 
 
 a man to make the trip inland. The trouble is that they are 
 afraid of losing their heads if they are known to have held com- 
 munication with the " Western people." 
 
 Captain Shufeldt, the navigator and I went out in different 
 cutters, sounding around the bay and up the river. I ascended 
 the river about six miles and found plenty of water as far as I 
 went. Returned to the ship at four o'clock and got the Wachusett 
 under way and stood up the river. At dark, came to anchor in 
 a fine bay which the Captain says shall be called "Philip's Bay" 
 on the chart hereafter. [There is no "Philip's Bay" on the 
 United States naval charts to-day, but there is a "Philip's Islet" 
 to the left of the entrance to Chemulpho harbor — E. S. M.] We 
 are now abreast a fine little Corean town built of straw. 
 
 Jan. 25th. — Out all day in a boat sounding up the bay and 
 river. Went about eight miles east of the ship and found plenty 
 of water to go that far up. All the people flocked to the shores 
 to see us, but would run as soon as we approached near them. 
 
 Jan. 27th. — Boats away from the ship all day, busy sounding 
 and surveying the bay. Ascended the river about eighteen miles, 
 until blocked with ice. 
 
 Jan. 27th (Sunday). — The Rev. Mr. Corbett preached an excellent 
 sermon. 
 
 Jan. 28th. — Gold and dreary all day, yet we spent nine hours in 
 boats sounding and surveying. While close into shore a crowd of 
 Coreans (I counted ninety-one) came down to us and being very 
 curious they wished to examine everything about — particularly 
 our garments. 
 
 Jan. 29th. — At 10 a. m. a Corean mandarin came on board to 
 "find out our business in Corean waters." He pretended to be a 
 private citizen. On being questioned rather sharply in regard to 
 the General Sherman affair he wound himself up in lies and unin- 
 tentionally revealed his true character. Finding it impossible 
 to get a message to the king or to find out anything definitely 
 from the natives about here. Captain Shufeldt sent the mandarin 
 on shore and assured him that a number of large ships would 
 return in the spring to secure entire satisfaction from the Corean 
 government and would force them to yield. After sending the 
 Corean on shore, we got under way and steamed out to sea bound 
 for the south. 
 
 Feb. 1st. — After riding out a heavy snow storm under the lee 
 of an island on the coast of Corea yesterday and the day before, 
 
OVERRUN WITH COREANS 247 
 
 we went ahead at full speed at daylight this morning and at 4 
 p. M. anchored in Port Hamilton, an island on the southern coast 
 of Corea. We are here to examine this island and its harbor, 
 with a view to forming a naval depot for the United States. Short- 
 ly after anchoring, we were visited by some Gorean officials, who 
 "welcomed us from our distant western homes to their shores, 
 etc.," and "hoped that our mission was a friendly one," etc. 
 
 Feb. 2d. — To-day we were overrun with Goreans of aU classes, 
 very eager to see everything on board and to obtain presents 
 from the officers. But they would give nothing in return for jack- 
 knives, tobacco, money or anything. They wore very peculiar 
 hair hats, which we tried to buy or trade for. But they would 
 not dispose of anything, for fear (as they said) that their king 
 woidd chop their heads off for communicating with us. Several 
 of our officers visited the shore, but saw nothing of interest. They 
 were worried almost to death by crowds collecting around them, 
 wishing to examine everything about their clothing and persons — 
 wishing the officers to give them things as curios. 
 
 Feb. 3d. — Left Port Hamilton early this morning, bound for 
 Shanghai. 
 
 Feb. 5th. — Came to anchor this morning off the United States 
 consulate at Shanghai. We were soon visited by a large number 
 of Americans from the different houses to welcome us back. Re- 
 ceived a large mail with news, etc. 
 
 Feb. 6th. — Everything was closed on shore to-day, as it is the 
 Chinese New Year. They, of course, are having a jolly time with 
 their fireworks, etc. 
 
 Feb. 7th. — Went on shore in the morning, and after securing a 
 "fancy turnout, " we drove all day about the city and the adjoining 
 country. 
 
 Feb. 8th. — Mr. Seward, our late consul-general, came on board 
 to bid us farewell before he left for the United States. 
 
 Feb. 14th. — In the evening gave a large dinner party to some of 
 our friends in Shanghai. The same last night. 
 
 Feb. 17th (Sunday). — In the morning I attended divine service 
 in the English chapel and in the evening at the American church 
 Heard an excellent sermon preached by a Mr. Nelson of Virginia 
 a late Confederate. 
 
 Feb. 21st. — Went on shore and took out of jail one of our runa- 
 ways of last July. Confined him on board to await trial. Sent 
 word to all the different foreign naval authorities that to-morrow 
 
248 BUSY ON WAR-LIKE ERRANDS 
 
 was Washington's Birthday, and requested them to "dress ship" 
 with us at sunrise. 
 
 Feb. 22d. — At sunrise all the men of war dressed ship with us. 
 The Prussian was very anxious to fire a salute at noon, but Captain 
 Shufeldt would not consent, because we are not allowed to fire 
 salutes. In the evening some of us went down on board the 
 Yankee bark Nellie Abbott and had a very pleasant evening. 
 
 Feb. 23d.' — A great many people visited the ship to-day, as we 
 are on the eve of sailing. We flatter ourselves with the idea of hav- 
 ing a great many friends here. - 
 
 Feb. 25th. — ^At 3.30 p. m. we steamed down the river in charge 
 of a pilot. Arrived at Woosung about sunset to await daylight 
 before proceeding up the Yangtse. 
 
 Feb. 27th. — We made one hundred miles up the river yesterday, 
 and resumed our course early this morning. At 2 p. m. we reached 
 our old anchorage, where Captain Townsend died last summer. 
 Now it is much pleasanter, yet we have many unpleasant remem- 
 brances of the place and wish to leave it as soon as possible. 
 
 Mar. 1st. — Got under way at daylight and proceeded up the 
 river. Passed the grand canal and in the afternoon passed the 
 city of Nankin. Came to anchor at 8 p. m. to await daylight. 
 
 Mar. 4th. — For the last three days we have been steaming up 
 the river amid magnificent scenery. At 9 a. m. anchored off the 
 city of Kin Kiang. In the afternoon several of us went on shore 
 and walked all over the city. Saw nothing of interest. 
 
 Mar. 5th. — ^In steaming up' the river to-day we enjoyed the 
 finest scenery on the stream. It was really beautiful, and after 
 seeing the barren coast of China for the past year we could 
 appreciate the views. 
 
 Mar. 6th. — Got under way at daylight and at 3 p. m. reached 
 the city of Hankow, the end of our journey, so we are at last 
 six hundred and eighteen miles in the interior of China. We are 
 the second but largest American man-of-war that has ev-er visited 
 this place. 
 
 Mar. 8tk — To-day Captain Shufeldt made an official call with 
 our consul on the chief mandarin of Hankow, in order to impress 
 upon his mind the importance of the United States. The old 
 fellow has always had the idea that the United States was a small 
 place, not far, but subject to China, and would not recognize any 
 consular agent from us — hence one reason for our visit to this 
 place. The mandarin comes on board to-morrow in order to 
 
IN A CHINESE MILITARY CAMP 249 
 
 satisfy himself in regard to our demands and rights to have a 
 representative. 
 
 Mar. 9th. — At 2 p. m. the great mandarin came on board. 
 Received him with the usual ceremonies and showed him nearly 
 everything on board. The old fellow left apparently very much 
 pleased with his visit. 
 
 Mar. nth. — Several of the officers went on shore to witness the 
 athletic sports. I allowed several sailors to go on shore on liberty, 
 and of course they were on the grounds, and entering into the races, 
 managed to carry off three prizes for the Wachusett against the 
 English and French tars. 
 
 Mar. 12th. — Early this morning our American friends formed a 
 party and we all visited a camp of Chinese soldiers. Unfortunately 
 we were too late to see their drills, but we inspected their camp 
 thoroughly. Being in uniform we were kindly received by the 
 old general and his officers, who wished us to remain and accept of 
 his hospitality; but, having tried Chinese chow-chow before, we 
 declined. Their camps were in good order for Chinese and laid 
 out quite regularly. The only remarkable thing to us was the 
 great number of flags and banners. There seemed to be a flag 
 for each man, stuck up everywhere. 
 
 Mar. 14th. — Left Hankow early this morning and steamed 
 down the river. After proceeding about one hundred miles, every 
 village we came to was on Are. At one time we counted seventeen 
 within a circle of six miles. They had been set on fire by the 
 rebels on the north bank of the river. The south bank was covered 
 with refugees. We anchored at dark abreast of a burning 
 village. 
 
 Mar. 15th. — Game to anchor off the city of Kin Kiang about 7 
 p. M. Great excitement on shore because the rebels are so near. 
 Everybody in a state of alarm. If there is any danger to Euro- 
 peans we will not leave the river for the present, but will remain to 
 look out for American interests. 
 
 Mar. 18th. — Much excitement the last two days. The chief 
 mandarin called on Captain Shufeldt to-day to express his gratifi- 
 cation that the Wachusett remained near the city. Refugees 
 arriving here continually from the opposite bank of the river. 
 Every night we see one or more villages burning. 
 
 Mar. 20th. — Refugees flocking in by thousands. To-day it was 
 reported that the rebels were crossing the river above here to 
 
250 BUSY ON WAR-LIKE ERRANDS 
 
 attack this place, but the report is not correct, although the rascals 
 are in great force just across the river. 
 
 Mar. 23d. — As the rebels have retired, we got under way this 
 morning and resumed our course down the river, after having 
 received profuse thanks from the chief mandarin of Kin Kiang for 
 remaining by the city until the rebels departed. On the way 
 down the river there were no signs of the rebels, but at each city 
 and town we passed the people seemed to be preparing for an attack, 
 and all the walls were covered, so far as we could see, with small 
 flags of all sorts and descriptions, intended to frighten off the enemy. 
 
 Mar. 25th. — Arrived at Nankin last evening. As this is not an 
 open city we secured permission from the authorities to go ashore 
 and see the place, which we will do to-morrow. 
 
 Mar. 26th. — A party of' ten of the officers, including our captain, 
 went on shore this morning. Horses were furnished by an English 
 surgeon in charge of the Chinese arsenals. We first saw the ruins 
 of the celebrated porcelain tower, and then rode out to the tombs 
 of the Ming dynasty. We rode nearly thirty miles. In its day 
 Nankin must have been one of the largest cities in the world, for 
 we were at least five hours in riding at a good trot across one portion 
 of it on a street road. 
 
 Mar. 27th. — We left Nankin at daylight this morning and 
 steamed down the river to Chin Kiang, forty-five miles distant. 
 
 Mar. 29th. — We left Chin Kiang at noon and started down the 
 river, having as passengers the American consul (Capt. Charles J. 
 Sands, U. S. A.) and his sister (now Mrs. Edward L. Marsh, of Des 
 Moines, Iowa) on board as passengers for Shanghai — consequently 
 this has been a very pleasant trip so far. The only objection to 
 it on our part is that it will terminate to-morrow evening and then 
 we must resume the old routine again. Getting under way so 
 soon we disappointed some of our friends who came up from 
 Shanghai in a steamer to return with us. We passed them on the 
 way. 
 
 Mar. 30th. — At 2 p. m. we anchored at our old berth off the 
 United States consulate at Shanghai. We had scarcely anchored 
 before nearly all our friends came on board to " chin-chin " with us. 
 
 April 2d. — In the evening I attended a meeting of the Ancient 
 Landmark (Masonic) Lodge and witnessed the raising of two of 
 our officers. 
 

CHAPTER XXX 
 
 A LONG DEFERRED HOMEWARD VOYAGE 
 Philip's journal op a cBmsE 
 
 APRIL 3d, 1867. — Shanghai — At 10 a. m. steamed down the 
 river bound for Foo-Ghow. 
 April 6th. — At 5 p. M. anchored at the Pagoda Anchor- 
 age in the Minn River, twelve miles below Foo-Ghow. 
 
 April 7th. — Spent most of the day aboard the Ashuelot, with 
 schoolmates whom I had not seen since leaving the academy. 
 
 AprU 10th. — This morning the Ashuelot received orders to go to 
 sea immediately. Of course the greater portion of the day had to 
 be spent with her officers, as we may not see them again for a long 
 time. She is ordered to Formosa, to look after an American ship 
 supposed to be lost and all hands murdered. 
 
 April 14th. — Got under way at daylight and steamed up the 
 coast. 
 
 April 16th. — At noon anchored off the city of Chin Hae. Sent 
 an officer by steamer to Shanghai to get our mail and dispatches 
 from the Admiral and thus ascertain his whereabouts. 
 
 April 18th. — Learned that our Admiral had gone to Japan and 
 had ordered us to remain on tliis part of the station. This is for- 
 tunate for us, as we have broken our shaft. At noon got under 
 way and anchored off the city of Ningpo. Now we have visited 
 every port on the coast of China and are ready to go home. 
 
 April 22d. — In the afternoon five missionaries and their families 
 visited the ship. Had a pleasant time, and on their leaving some 
 of the officers accompanied them home to spend the evening with 
 them. The missionaries here and at Foo-Ghow are the nicest 
 families we have visited in the East. They seem more " home-like." 
 [The writer will, perhaps, be excused for noting that among the 
 missionary families in Foo-Ghow at the time of Philip's visit was 
 that of the Rev. Robert Samuel Maclay. The writer, the youngest 
 of a family of eight children, was then only four years old, and in 
 
252 A LONG DEFERRED HOMEWARD VOYAGE 
 
 his "interview" with the future great admiral made no mention 
 whatever of preparing the "Life and Adventures of 'Jack' Philip." 
 — E. S. M.] 
 
 April 23d. — Left Ningpo at noon bound for Shanghai, where we 
 will have our machinery (which is in bad condition and only par- 
 tially repaired) permanently fixed. 
 
 April 24th. — At 8 a. m. anchored off the consulate at Shanghai. 
 The mail from home arrived to-day, but no letters for me — conse- 
 quently disappointed. 
 
 April 25th. — The Supply arrived to-day, bringing me my com- 
 mission as a lieutenant-commander in the navy. 
 
 April 27th. — In the afternoon hired a splendid "turn out" and 
 took some officers and friends out to the race course to witness the 
 athletic sports. Then drove outside the city limits for some 
 distance. 
 
 May 6th. — To-day I bought a cabinet for a high price and got 
 badly cheated by a Chinaman. 
 
 May 10th. — Attended the races in the afternoon. The "Red, 
 White and Blue" carried the field, and consequently brought in 
 the honors and fame for the Yankees. 
 
 May 17th. — In the evening I sent sixty men on shore to join in 
 the parade of the "fire department." It being an American 
 institution our men joined with a will on their different engines. 
 
 May 19th (Sunday). — Last night one of the large river steamers 
 ran into us, but did more damage to herself than to us. 
 
 May 22d. — I landed about seventy sailors in front of the con- 
 sulate and exercised them in different infantry evolutions. Of 
 course we attracted crowds of " lookers-on," but the drill was such 
 that we were proud to have any one see. 
 
 May 25th. — The mail from Europe and the United States 
 arrived this afternoon, but unfortunately I did not receive any- 
 thing from home. I have not received any for four mails, and 
 am much disappointed and am now afraid almost to receive 
 one. 
 
 May 30th. — Yesterday and to-day I landed ninety men for 
 infantry drills, which went off to the satisfaction of " all hands." 
 This afternoon two American ladies visited the ship — thus giving 
 us a treat. 
 
 May 31st. — An English ship ran into us to-day and carried 
 away our head booms. I immediately went aboard him and gave 
 
A GLORIOUS "fourth" 253 
 
 him to understand that he could not sail until all damages were 
 paid for. 
 
 June 1st. — Had a spirited race to-day between our gig and 
 a boat belonging to the Spanish consul. Our boat won. 
 
 June 9th. — This has been one of the pleasantest days I have 
 spent on shipboard. After the Sunday inspection we had divine 
 service on the quarter deck, the Rev. Mr. Yates officiating, and 
 besides our own people there were ten or twelve ladies and gentle- 
 men from shore who attended the service. In the evening I 
 attended service in the American church. 
 
 June 15th. — To-day is one of the pleasantest I have spent on 
 this station, for I spent it with the family of a missionary. It was 
 so home-like. 
 
 June 19th. — To-day the Hartford and Wyoming returned from 
 their mission to Formosa to see about the murder of some Ameri- 
 cans by the natives. After landing some two hundred men and 
 suffering greatly from sunstroke, they were obliged to retreat. 
 We learned to-day of the death of Lieutenant-Commander 
 Mackenzie. 
 
 June 29th. — In the evening I attended the meeting of the 
 Ancient Landmark (Masonic) Lodge and witnessed the raising of 
 one of our officers. There were present nineteen officers from the 
 American squadron. 
 
 July 4th. — At sunrise we dressed ship in honor of the day, all the 
 vessels in the port joining with us. Though it rained hard all day 
 the Yankees were " alive, " afloat and ashore, making and returning 
 calls — guns and firecrackers going off at intervals, much to the 
 annoyance of the English residents, but to the glorification of the 
 Yankees. In the evening dinner parties took place throughout 
 the American community in Shanghai. Although we are on the 
 opposite side of the world from the United States, I think the day 
 was observed with as much glorification as if we had been at 
 home. 
 
 July 9th. — At 5 p. M. a very spirited boat race came off between 
 the Admiral's barge and one of our cutters. The former challenged 
 our boat and we won, beating the Hartford's pet race-boat badly. 
 
 July 29th.— Left Shanghai to-day for a cruise among the Chusan 
 Islands. This is a welcome break in the monotony of our long 
 stay at Shanghai. 
 
 Aug. 3d. — Yesterday we ran into Ningpo, and to-day our Consul- 
 General at Shanghai and his wife came on board for a short cruise 
 
254 A LONG DEFEERED HOMEWARD VOYAGE 
 
 among the islands. Steamed out to sea, touching at various islands 
 and ports. 
 
 Aug. 5th. — While on shore to-day at Ting Hae, we chartered two 
 junks to take us down to the island of Poo-too, a sacred island, on a 
 sort of a picnic. I am detailed by Captain Shufeldt to take official 
 charge of the party, and to act against pirates who frequent this 
 island as a headquarters. 
 
 Aug. 6th. — At four o'clock this morning we left the ship in two 
 junks. Unfortunately we had a head wind and did not arrive at 
 our destination until noon. We went on shore to explore the 
 island and its temples. Although Poo-too is inhabited only by 
 priests, and is a rendezvous for pirates, I think it the prettiest 
 island, with the finest scenery we have yet seen in China. We 
 walked about a mile and a half inland, through fine groves and 
 into a splendid valley where the temples are located. They are 
 very old, but in an excellent state of preservation. They contained 
 about sixty images or josses. One was the largest I have ever seen. 
 It stood about forty-five feet high and was eleven feet across the 
 shoulders. It was the "god of plenty." We saw a great many 
 objects of interest and wonder and could have stayed here a week, 
 but one of our officers had a sun-stroke and we had to return to 
 the ship — without having seen any suspicious characters by -the 
 way. 
 
 Aug. 8th. — The usual routine of keeping the ship clean, but no 
 regular work of any kind, as we are out for the health of the ship's 
 company. We enjoy the fresh sea breezes, and I allow the men to 
 go sailing or on short picnics on some of the islands. 
 
 Aug. 9th, — In spite of the fine sea air, our sick list is increasing. 
 We had remained too long in Shanghai and are now reaping the 
 results. 
 
 Aug. 11th. — Only two new cases of sickness yesterday. This 
 morning I left the ship in a junk for Poo-too, with one of our guests 
 and some of the officers. We spent two days there and had a 
 delightful time. We returned to the ship on the 14th. 
 
 Aug. 15th. — We got under way this morning and ran down to 
 Poo-too and anchored, so as to be nearer to the sea. We are in 
 hopes that the health of the crew will rapidly improve. To-night 
 a great many of the officers and men strolled over the island for 
 health and exercise. 
 
 Aug. 18th. — The last two days were spent in wandering about 
 the island, health of the crew greatly improving. To-night I 
 
A GREAT DISAPPOINTMENT 255 
 
 received a package delivered by the Wells, Fargo Express — so 
 much for Yankee enterprise in this distant part of the world. 
 
 Aug. 19th. — The English gunboat Starling came in from Ningpo. 
 She reports that it is almost insufferable there and at Shanghai, 
 the thermometer ranging as high as 105, while the highest it has 
 been here was 85. 
 
 Aug. 22d. — Returned to our old berth at Shanghai to-day. 
 We learned that we will leave for the United States as soon as we 
 can possibly get ready. 
 
 Aug. 25th (Sunday). — As this is our last day in Shanghai all 
 our friends came on board to bid us good-by. 
 
 Aug. 26th. — Got under way and steamed down the river, thus 
 bidding adieu to Shanghai. We leave this place with regrets, 
 having made the acquaintance of many people who have turned 
 out to be "friends." 
 
 Sept. 2d. — Anchored this morning in Hong Kong harbor near 
 the flagship Hartford. We heard that the Wachiisett will leave for 
 home in a week, but unfortunately for me, I was detached from 
 the Wachiisett and ordered as executive officer to the Hartford. 
 
 Sept. 3d. — Reported for duty on board the flagship. Busy all 
 day in packing up my things for a move to-morrow. 
 
 Sept. 4th. — After breakfast I took all my things and said fare- 
 well to the old Wachusett and went aboard the Hartford. Busy 
 aU day in unpacking and getting settled down. [His detachment 
 from the Wachiisett, on the eve of her sailing for home, was a bitter 
 disappointment to Philip. No one who has not spent several 
 years in foreign parts, can appreciate the keenness of delight with 
 which officers and men look forward to the day of their sailing for 
 "home." Philip was on his first prolonged absence from the 
 United States. And yet, even in the secrecy of his diary, he has 
 no word or suggestion of reproach for the order which veritably 
 snatched the priceless joys of a "homeward bound cruise" from 
 his hps and doomed him to a longer stay on this sickly and now 
 doubly distasteful station. A finer example of submission to duty 
 cannot be imagined. — E. S. M.] 
 
 Sept. 5th. — Busy all day in inspecting the ship and in getting 
 acquainted with everything about her. I find it much different 
 being executive officer of a flagship. The old Wachusett hoisted 
 her homeward bound pennant (two hundred and fifty feet long) 
 to-day. 
 
 Sept. 7th. — I am beginning to get reconciled to my new home. 
 
256 A LONG DEFERRED HOMEWARD VOYAGE 
 
 Sept. 8th. — In the afternoon we made preparations for a typhoon 
 and during the night we had a terrific one. I was up all night 
 looking out for our ship, while other vessels were drifting around 
 the harbor in all directions. About midnight a Spanish ship 
 dragged down on us and in a few minutes she capsized, sinking 
 beneath this ship! Sent a boat and succeeded in rescuing, with 
 great difficulty, all hands excepting the captain's little son, who 
 was lost. It was a frightful night! 
 
 Sept. 9th. — At daylight this morning the typhoon had subsided 
 somewhat, but it had left terrible traces of its work among the 
 shipping and on shore. Several ships disappeared last night, 
 others were driven on shore, while a very large number were dis- 
 masted. Busy all day trying to get clear of the Spanish wreck, 
 directly under us. 
 
 Sept. 18th. — At 3 p. m. the old Wachiisett got under way and 
 steamed out of the harbor bound for New York. As she passed I 
 ordered the rigging to be manned and gave her three hearty good 
 cheers and wished her good luck. All the men-of-war in port 
 cheered her as she steamed past. 
 
 Oct. 1st. — To-day we had a terrific typhoon, doing an immense 
 amount of damage. Ships were dragging their anchors and fouling 
 each other in all directions. We dragged with three anchors and 
 one hundred and fifty fathoms of chain! Fortunately, no damage 
 happened to us. 
 
 Oct. 2d. — This morning the gale had abated, but very sad sights 
 were seen around the harbor. Several ships were foul of each 
 other; others were almost wrecked. Assisted two American ships 
 that had dragged ashore. 
 
 Oct. 5th. — The Great Republic arrived to-day on her pioneer 
 voyage from San Francisco. She brought a large mail, but no 
 letters for me. I suppose they all think that I am now on my way 
 home, so will not write any more. 
 
 Oct. 10th. — Got under way and steamed out to sea this morning, 
 having on board guests of the Admiral, Mrs. Hunter and her two 
 daughters. 
 
 Oct. 13th (Sunday). — A very rare thing occurred to-day, namely: 
 that of having ladies to attend service at sea aboard a man-of- 
 war. As we have strong head winds we are making slow progress 
 in our course to Nagasaki. 
 
 Oct. 15th. — At noon to-day the mess gave a "swell tiflin" to the 
 ladies, having the Admiral and Captain present. 
 
OPENING A JAPANESE PORT 257 
 
 Oct. 19th. — Anchored in the harbor of Nagasaki to-day. 
 
 Nov. 22d. — We have had a long and tedious stay at Nagasaki. 
 To-day Mr. Peterson, the Admiral's secretary, died after a long 
 illness, from disease contracted in the hot climate of Shanghai. 
 
 Dec. 7th. — Still in Nagasaki.^ In the afternoon the Iroquois 
 came in. She is the relief of the Wachusett. Spent the evening 
 with an old classmate whom I had not seen since leaving the 
 Academy. 
 
 Dec. 11th. — After breakfast a party of officers from this ship and 
 the Iroquois went off on a picnic on horseback. Rode about ten 
 miles back of the city. 
 
 Dec. 17th. — At daylight got under way and steamed out of 
 Nagasaki with the Iroquois and Aroostook, bound for Hiogo. 
 
 Dec. 19th. — We arrived at Shimonoseki last night and stopped 
 for coal. All of the officers visited the shore. As very few officers 
 have ever visited this place, we were objects of curiosity. The 
 town is small, but compares with other Japanese towns favorably. 
 
 Dec. 20th. — We left Shimonoseki night before last and arrived 
 at Hiogo yesterday afternoon. We found five English warships, 
 besides several merchantmen, waiting for the port to be opened, 
 which will be on the 1st. The Japanese have several war steamers 
 here to watch, I suppose, the foreigners. 
 
 Dec. 22d (Sunday). — Went on shore this afternoon to see the 
 sights of Hiogo. Although the port is not yet open to foreigners, 
 the natives treat us very kindly. To-day seems to be some grand 
 holiday, for everybody almost was dressed out in gay colors, 
 dancing and shouting through the streets, while processions would 
 march down, pass us under some banner and all the stores were 
 closed. 
 
 Dec. 23d. — This afternoon the Shenandoah arrived with the 
 American minister and his suite. 
 
 Dec. 24th. — To-day Assistant Surgeon C. H. Page died, after a 
 short illness. We have lost seven of our original mess. 
 
 Dec. 26th. — Unusual amount of official visits between the 
 American and English fleets, and of course much gunpowder 
 burned. The "head officials" are making arrangements for the 
 formal opening of the port. All sorts of rumors afloat in regard 
 to trouble, fights, etc., but I guess it will all blow over before the 
 1st of January. 
 
 Dec. 27th. — The Japs are collecting a large force at Osaka to 
 oppose us next week. 
 
258 A LONG DEFERRED HOMEWARD VOYAGE 
 
 Dec. 30th. — Making invisible preparations for opening the port. 
 Several rumors afloat in regard to war, but I do not think that the 
 Japanese will interfere with us. 
 
 Jan. 1st, 1868. — ^As this was the day for the grand functions, 
 we dressed ship with the Japanese flag at the main and at noon 
 every war vessel in the harbor fired a salute of twenty-one guns. 
 Seventeen vessels joined in the saluting, and for a little while the 
 harbor rang with the report of great guns. In the afternoon 
 there was more saluting, to the governor of Hiogo, the French 
 minister, and the American and Dutch consuls, who all visited this 
 ship. On the whole it has been a lively day, and I suppose the 
 port is now opened in due form. At noon all the different consuls 
 hoisted their flags, and a large number of Europeans (who had been 
 waiting on board different steamers) went on shore and are now 
 ready to open business. Whether there will be any difficulty 
 with the Japs on shore remains to be seen, but so far everything 
 seems favorable. 
 
 Jan. 2d. — To-day the Admiral made a grand inspection of all 
 the American war ships and found a great deal of fault. He 
 "gave it" to the officers accordingly. 
 
 Jan. 5th (Sunday). — The Rev. Mr. Goble, a missionary from 
 Nagasaki, officiated at divine service to-day. 
 
 Jan. Sth. — As we heard that the Japanese were fighting near 
 Osaka, we steamed across the bay to-day and anchored about 
 seven miles from that city. 
 
 Jan. 11th. — This has been the saddest day of our cruise. Admiral 
 Bell, Fleet Lieut.-Commander Reed and ten men were drowned 
 by the overturning of their boat. By the last mail we received 
 orders to proceed to Singapore and await the arrival of our relief. 
 Consequently the Admiral was very anxious to finish this business 
 here and return to the south. For the last two days it has been 
 blowing such a gale that it was impossible to visit the shore; but 
 this morning, it having moderated a little, the Admiral thought 
 that he must attempt to communicate with our minister, and 
 ordered his barge to be manned. He and Mr. Reed started for 
 the bar, but the boat had no sooner struck the breakers at the 
 mouth of the river than the barge was capsized. 
 
 The officer of the deck and I were on the poop of the Hartford 
 watching the boat from the time she left the ship until she went 
 over. We sent two boats from the Hartford and one each "from 
 the Shenandoah and Aroostook (four in all) to the assistance of 
 
TRAGIC DEATH OF ADMIRAL BELL 259 
 
 those in the surf, and, although they arrived there in a compara- 
 tively short time, they succeeded in saving only three men; all 
 the others having perished. We then sent a boat inside the 
 breakers to search, and at sunset they found the body of the Admiral 
 and one of his men. It is still blowing hard, but there are two 
 boats inside on the watch, in hopes of finding them all. The 
 opening of the port of Osaka has been a very sad event so far, 
 and it is to be sincerely hoped that no like accident may happen 
 in the future. All the bodies were recovered afterward. 
 
 Jan. 14th. — Busy yesterday and the day before making prep- 
 arations for the funeral. At 10.30 a. m. the boats began to assemble, 
 and after lowering the twelve bodies in the launches, the funeral 
 procession formed in three lines of boats, eleven in each line, and 
 pulled for the shore. All the English fleet joined in the ceremonies, 
 their boats occupying the left line. As the procession started the 
 Hartford fired thirteen minute guns; and at our last gun, the 
 Shenandoah began and was followed by the Oneida and the Iro- 
 quois — each firing the same number (thirteen) of guns, thus pro- 
 longing the salute and making it more solemn — ^if possible. At 
 the graves the usual military ceremonies were observed and the 
 Chaplain performed the last service. At sunset we saluted the 
 Admiral's flag with thirteen guns and then hauled it down. 
 
 Jan. 21st. — Got under way and steamed out of the harbor of 
 Hiogo, bound for Nagasaki. It seems almost incredible that we 
 are really on our way home after so long an absence. 
 
 Jan. 26th. — After touching at Shimonoseki for coal we anchored 
 at Nagasaki this afternoon. 
 
 Feb. 8th. — We left Nagasaki the 1st inst., and arrived at Hong 
 Kong to-day after an uneventful passage. 
 
 Feb. 20th. — Since our arrival in Hong Kong we have been busy 
 in preparing the ship for her homeward passage. But we had bad 
 news to-day from Japan — of a war and trouble with foreigners. 
 We are afraid that this ship will be obliged to return there instead 
 of going home. It will be a great disappointment to us, but if 
 duty requires us to go back we have no alternative and consequently 
 will do what our country expects of us with ■pleasure and alacrity. 
 [A noble sentiment — nobly expressed! — E. S. M.] 
 
 Feb. 21st. — Received orders to-day to get ready for sea imme- 
 diately on account of the trouble in Japan. I suppose we will 
 return to that country and await our relief there instead of at 
 
260 A LONG DEFEBRED HOMEWARD VOYAGE 
 
 Singapore, as we had intended. If so we will be detained almost 
 a year longer. Yet it is our duty. 
 
 Feb. 26tli. — The Supply sailed yesterday for Boston. All 
 her people are perfectly happy at the idea of leaving this station 
 and returning to the United States. We cheered them heartily. 
 
 March 5th. — We find that we will not be obliged to return to 
 Japan after all. To-day we left Hong Kong and anchored at 
 Whampoa, in order to get clear water with which to clean the 
 bottom of our ship. 
 
 We saw quite an exciting engagement between three or four 
 Chinese junks about two miles below us. Although there was a 
 good deal of firing on each side I think there was no serious injury 
 done, as they all sailed away apparently satisfied. 
 
 March 13th. — Left Whampoa yesterday and steamed into Hong 
 Kong harbor to-day .It does seem that we will never get started 
 on our homeward voyage. 
 
 March 19th. — A telegram was received to-day announcing that 
 war had been declared between England and the United States. 
 
 March 20th. — This being our last day in China, we all went on 
 shore in the evening and made Hong Kong "aware" of our pres- 
 ence. 
 
 March 21st. — This has been the happiest day I have spent in 
 China. All the morning our friends were coming on board to say 
 good-by, and finally at 2.30 p. m. we got under way and steamed 
 out of the harbor, amid the cheering of all the men-of-war. All 
 the sailors were in the rigging hurrahing at the top of their voices, 
 and at the last cheer nearly every one of them threw his cap over- 
 board, while some let fly from the mast heads game cocks, ducks, 
 etc. I can scarcely realize that we are at last homeward bound! 
 
 March 31st. — After a beautiful run down the coast and islands 
 we anchored at Singapore to-day, but were disappointed in not 
 finding our relief ship, the Piscataqua, there, so we must wait 
 for her. 
 
 April 18th. — The Piscataqua arrived to-day, much to our delight. 
 During our stay here I visited the shore several times, but cannot 
 say that I like the place very much. 
 
 April ,23d. — At daylight we got under way and steamed out of 
 the harbor, after giving the Admiral a parting salute with "full 
 charges." This is "one of the days" to be remembered. 
 
 April 28th. — After touching at Anjiers and finding that it would 
 
HOMEWARD BOUND 261 
 
 take three or four days to coal, our captain decided to make his 
 way to Cape Town under sail alone. 
 
 May 20th. — Less than two thousand miles from Cape Town; 
 we had an exciting race to-day with a large English merchant 
 ship. At daylight she was abeam of us, standing in the same 
 direction. All day each ship would try to get ahead of the other. 
 We kept quite close to each other; first one, then the other would 
 get ahead until dark, when the Englishman was five miles astern, 
 thus leaving the old Hartford victor. 
 
 May 23d. — During the night we overhauled another English 
 ship, and just as we got abeam of her, only about two hundred 
 yards apart, the wind died out. We had hard work during the 
 night to keep the two ships from fouling each other. At day- 
 light a breeze sprang up and we kept company all day. 
 
 May 29th. — Our English friend, whom we came so near fouling 
 on the night of the 23d, managed to poke her mastheads above 
 the horizon once or twice for several days past, but we finally 
 dropped her for good. To-day we passed another merchant ship, 
 which increases our confidence in the old Hartford's ability to 
 make a quick passage home, 
 
 June 8th. — After being buffeted around for several days by 
 heavy gales — most of them "butt end foremost" — and having a 
 breakdown in our engines, we finally reached Simons Bay this 
 morning. 
 
 June 12th. — I went down to the lighthouse on the Cape of 
 Good Hope. Had a hard ride on horseback for thirty-eight 
 miles, but after getting to our journey's end we were amply repaid. 
 We visited one of the most celebrated lighthouses in the world. 
 It is on the extreme southern point of the African Continent. 
 Standing just outside of the tower you look down a perpendicular 
 height of eight hundred and seventy-five feet to the waters of the 
 Atlantic and Indian Oceans beating on the rocks. Besides the 
 grand view from this height we saw wild deer among the rocks, 
 and ostriches. 
 
 June 13th. — Left the ship in the morning and galloped over to 
 Cape Town — a distance of twenty-six miles, and back again in the 
 evening. I had a splendid time to-day. Called upon several of 
 my friends in Cape Town. 
 
 This ends Philip's Journal of a Cruise. 
 
CHAPTER XXXI 
 Philip's own story of Santiago 
 
 PHILIP'S career, from the termmation of his first 
 three years' cruise on the Asiatic station, has 
 been so frequently touched upon by the writers 
 of articles forming part of this work that nothing more 
 is to be desired except a chronological sketch of his 
 professional advancement from that time down to the 
 outbreak of the Hispano-American War. 
 
 On the return of the Hartford to the United States, 
 Philip, after a brief rest, served as executive officer of 
 the Richmond on the European station, December, 1868, 
 to November, 1871. From September, 1872, to June, 
 1873, he was again executive officer of the flagship 
 Hartford on the Asiatic station, and was then detached 
 to command the old side-wheeler Monocacy. 
 
 Philip's genial personality made friends for him 
 wherever he went, and from February 28, 1874 to 1876 
 he enjoyed a leave of absence from the Department as 
 commander of one of the finest steamers of the Pacific 
 Mail Steamship Company — having been conunissioned 
 a commander December 18, 1874. In Jiily, 1876, 
 PhiUp was ordered to command the Adams, but in April, 
 1877, a leave of absence was again granted him so he 
 might take charge of the "Woodruff Scientific Expedition 
 Around the World, " an enterprise inspired by James 0. 
 Woodruff of Indianapolis, Ind., but which did not get 
 beyond the advertising page of a popular weekly 
 periodical. 
 
ON THE PACIFIC COAST 263 
 
 As this undertaking "fell through," Philip, in Decem- 
 ber of the same year, was ordered to the command of the 
 Tuscarora, engaged in surveying the west coast of Mexico 
 and Central America. He was transferred to the Ranger 
 August, 1880, and it was while in command of this ship 
 that he married Mrs, Cowan, of San Francisco. 
 
 Our benedict was detached from the Ranger October, 
 1883, and from April, 1884, to April, 1887, he wasUght- 
 house inspector of the I2th district. From May, 1887, 
 to May, 1890, he commanded the receiving ship Inde- 
 pendence at Mare Island, CaUfornia; having been com- 
 missioned a captain March 31, 1889. He commanded 
 the Atlanta from December, 1890, to December, 1891, 
 when he became general inspector of the cruiser New 
 York, then building, and on her completion he com- 
 manded her until August, 1894. He served as captain 
 of the Boston Navy Yard from August 24, 1894, to Octo- 
 ber 17, 1897, and was ordered to the command of the 
 Texas October 17, 1897. Philip's appointment to the 
 Texas and her participation in the events which led to 
 the naval battle of Santiago have already been suffi- 
 ciently detailed by other writers in this work, so we now 
 have everything clear for the hero's own narrative of 
 the stirring deeds of July 3, 1898. 
 
 PHILIP'S OWN STORY OF SANTIAGO 
 
 {From the Century Magazine for May, 18 99, by courtesy 
 of the Century Company) 
 
 Once in the weary days of waitiag before the Santiago 
 Morro, when none of us knew whether we were to lie 
 there inactive for a year or to be blown up the next 
 miQute by a torpedo, a man came to me and said: 
 
264 Philip's own story of Santiago 
 
 ''Captain, I don't know about this thing of standing 
 up to get shot at. I never thought much about the 
 Peace Society before, but I am becoming more and 
 more convinced that I ought to join it. The truth is, 
 if Cervera ever comes out of his hole and begins throwing 
 1 1-inch shells at me, I am very much afraid that I shall 
 be very much afraid." 
 
 I met this man again on that bright July afternoon 
 a week or two later, as we lay off Rio Tarquino, watching 
 the quiet surrender of the last ship of the Spanish squad- 
 ron, with the decks of the Texas sole-deep in saltpeter 
 from her guns, her forward upper works shot away, 
 the marks of a Spanish shell in her pilot-house, and the 
 fragments of another in her fire-room, but still able to 
 flutter the signal "No casualties." He looked twenty 
 years younger. His eyes were still bright with the joy 
 of battle. 
 
 "Were you afraid?" I asked. 
 
 "I hadn't time to think about it," he replied. 
 
 His somewhat whimsical apprehensions had been 
 born of the tension of waiting. 
 
 It is easy now to speak lightly of the blockade, but it 
 made more than one man in our squadron hollow-eyed 
 and fitful-pulsed. A less equable race could never 
 have maintained it as did the officers and men under the 
 command of Sampson and Schley. 
 
 Although this is intended to be a brief account of the 
 battle of Santiago as seen from the Texas, I mention 
 the blockade because it was the blockade that made the 
 battle possible. The battle was a direct consequence 
 of the blockade, and upon the method and effectivenes 
 of the blockade was very largely dependent the issue 
 of the battle. It was necessary to have always before 
 the entrance to Santiago harbor a force of ships amply 
 
THE "terrible STRAIN" OF WATCHING 265 
 
 sufficient to cope with the Spanish squadron, should it 
 come out to do battle, and it was necessary to have 
 this force so disposed that none of the Spaniards could 
 escape, if that were their object, no matter what direction 
 they should take. Unremitting vigilance by night and 
 by day was an absolute necessity. Under the orders of 
 Admiral Sampson, the blockade was conducted with a 
 success exemplified by the result. 
 
 It was a terrible strain, that month of watching for 
 what no man knew. For weeks hammocks were unknown 
 on the Texas, with half the entire crew by turns on watch 
 at night. Every one on board, from 'prentice to officer, 
 met the arduous conditions cheerfully. Rarely was 
 there an infraction of disciphne. One night two tired 
 boys were reported to me as asleep when they should 
 have been awake. It was an offence punishable with 
 death in time of war. I called them aft next morning, 
 in the presence of the assembled crew, and told them 
 that the safety of all depended upon the vigilance of 
 each. They looked for sympathy from their comrades, 
 but got not a glance. With a few more words of admon- 
 ition, I sent them below in tears, knowing fiill weU that 
 never again would those two boys sleep on post. 
 
 That our -officers and men bore up so well under this 
 strain, when a trip to Guantanamo for coal was a wel- 
 come rehef , and a bombardment of the Santiago fortifica- 
 tions a joyous dissipation, is a cheering instance that the 
 American character has plenty of that dogged steadfast- 
 ness which is more valuable to the doing of things than 
 dash and brilliancy alone. 
 
 So, when the Spanish admiral at last made his dash 
 to escape, we were ready — ready with our men, with 
 our guns, and with our engines. Any one who intimates 
 the contrary is mistaken, or is desirous of provoking 
 
266 Philip's own stohy of Santiago 
 
 technical discussion which would leave the public, not 
 understanding the exigencies of the situation, with the 
 impression that there was somewhere a culpable laxness. 
 The Texas, for example — I need not speak for any 
 other ship — was churning a white wake before the 
 first black prow of Cervera's squadron had fairly showed 
 around Puntilla. Within three minutes of the time when 
 the alarm was given she was under way at full speed 
 and firing, with every man at his post. What more 
 can "readiness" demand? 
 
 Cervera's sally had been so long expected that when 
 it actually came it was unexpected. I, for one, did not 
 dream that, after declining the issue for a month, he 
 would come out in broad dayUght. On the morning 
 of July 3d our ship was in her assigned blockadiag position 
 a Uttle west of south from Morro Castle, which point was 
 exactly fifty-one himdred yards distant from the Texas, 
 then Ijdng between the Brooklyn and the Iowa. The 
 Texas was somewhat farther inshore than either the 
 Brooklyn or the Iowa, the former being to the westward 
 and the latter to the eastward of her. East of the 
 Iowa, again, were the Oregon and the Indiana, while the 
 Gloucester flanked the Indiana inshore, and the Vixen 
 the Brooklyn. 
 
 I was haK-way up the steps leading from the cabin 
 to the main-deck when the electric gongs sounding the 
 general alarm smote my ears with a fierceness that made 
 me jump. On deck ofiicers and men were running to 
 their assigned stations in time of action, some of the 
 ofiicers who had been off duty buckling on their sword- 
 belts as they ran. I heard some one cry, " They're coming 
 out!" Glancing toward the Morro, I saw three wreaths 
 of smoke blackening the blue sky over the hills beyond 
 the entrance. It was just thirty-six minutes after nine. 
 
The Texas Searchlight. 
 { By Courtesy of the Century Company.) 
 
OPENING THE BATTLE 267 
 
 by our clock. The ship was already under way, headed 
 in. From our signal-halyards flew the flags representing 
 general signal No. 250, "The enemy is attempting to 
 escape." Lieutenant Mark L. Bristol had been the 
 ofl&cer on duty on the bridge, and he had lost no time 
 when his quick eyes had discovered the signs of Cervera's 
 saUy. Just as I reached the bridge the foremost of the 
 advancing Spanish ships poked her nose around PuntUla. 
 As she swung around she fired, and almost immediately 
 afterward our forward 6-inch spoke. The first shell 
 fired by Cervera threw up a column of water short of 
 us and between the Texas and the Iowa. 
 
 On each side of the Texas the Brooklyn and the Iowa 
 were coming up with a tremendous rush. The dash of 
 these two ships, as soon as the alarm was given, straight 
 for the enemy, with cascades of water pouring away 
 from their bows (the proverbial "bone in her teeth" of 
 the writers on nautical matters), was one of the most 
 beautiful sights of the battle. They seemed to me to 
 spring forward as a hound from the leash. Farther 
 east, the Oregon and the Indiana were also headed in, 
 ready for business. From some of the ships fluttered 
 the same signal that we displayed," The enemy is attempt- 
 ing to escape." When so many hundreds of eyes must 
 have seen the approach of Cervera at once, it is to the 
 credit of all that none claims the distinction of having 
 been the first to discover the sally. 
 
 The executive officer of the Texas, Lieutenant-Com- 
 mander Harber, and the navigator. Lieutenant Heilner, 
 joined me on the bridge. Lieutenant Bristol hastening 
 to his post at the port 12-inch turret gun. 
 
 It was only a few minutes after we had seen the leader 
 of the advancing squadron that it became apparent that 
 Cervera's plan was to run his ships in column westward 
 
268 Philip's own stoby of Santiago 
 
 in an effort to escape between the Brooklyn and the 
 shore, before our heavier ships could get way enough to 
 stop him. He afterward said that he had hoped to disable 
 the Brooklyn if she showed fight, and to show a clean pair 
 of heels to our battle-ships. In this he made two grievous 
 miscalculations : one in the speed and state of prepared- 
 ness of our heavier ships; the other, and perhaps even 
 more vital, as to the deadly accuracy of American fire at 
 long range. Before he had fairly found himself outside 
 the Morro, the entire blockading squadron — Indiana, 
 Oregon, Iowa, Brooklyn and Texas — was pumping shell 
 into him at such a rate as virtually to decide the issue of 
 the battle in the first few moments. 
 
 All our ships had closed in simultaneously. When 
 we started we were nearly three land miles distant. 
 The first range that I sent to our 12-inch was forty-two 
 hundred yards. At a quarter to ten, or ten minutes 
 after the alarm was sounded, the range was given to me 
 as thirty-four hundred yards by Naval Cadet Reynolds, 
 who was manipulating the range-finder on the bridge. 
 This was for the Spanish flagship, which we could see 
 was one of the Vizcaya class, and which we then thought 
 was the Vizcaya. As everyone knows now, she was 
 the Maria Teresa. 
 
 As the Spanish squadron steamed proudly past the 
 gray-walled Morro and swung in seamahlike precision 
 of colunm under the guns of Socapa, the scene from the 
 bridge of the Texas, as the smoke lifted from time to 
 time, was inspiring. A more beautiful morning we had 
 rarely seen, even in those sunlit tropic waters. Scarcely 
 a breath of air rippled the long-rolling green swell of the 
 Caribbean. Over the waters the mountains of Santiago 
 thrust their lofty wooded peaks into the unclouded sky. 
 On each hand were our ships of war rushing to the fray. 
 
"where are our battle flags?" 269 
 
 at close view battle-scarred and begrimed, but at our 
 distance glistening in the sunlight and majestic in their 
 suggestion of irresistible power. The picturesque old 
 Morro, which we had come to regard with feelings of 
 friendship, or at least of good acquaintance, rose straight 
 ahead of us, still flaunting the red-and-yellow flag. 
 
 The Spanish ships came out as gaily as brides to the 
 altar. Handsome vessels they certainly were, and with 
 flags enough flying for a celebration parade. "They cer- 
 tainly mean us to think they have started out, at least, 
 to do business," remarked an ofl&cer near me, gazing at 
 the huge battle-flags that swung from the peaks of the 
 Teresa; "but perhaps they have some white ones ready 
 for an emergency." It was this array, perhaps, which 
 caused Lieutenant Heflner suddenly to look aloft. 
 There was the old Texas pottering along grimly, without 
 any insignia of war except the Stars and Stripes in its 
 usual place at the stern. 
 
 "Where are our battle-flags?" he cried. 
 
 " I guess they won't have any misconception about our 
 being in battle," I remarked, as one of our 6-inch shells 
 threw up a column of spray that seemed to fall over the 
 Teresa's deck. But he wanted battle-flags. "What's 
 a battle without battle-flags?" he demanded, and 
 hurried a messenger after them. The messenger returned 
 with the information that the flags were in the locker and 
 that the chief signal-quartermaster had the key. The 
 signal-quartermaster just then was very busy and some- 
 what inaccessible, being at his post in the fore upper top. 
 "Then smash the locker," said the lieutenant, and at 
 last we got our battle-flags up. I don't know that the 
 Texas fought any better after that, but the lieutenant 
 was certainly happier. 
 
 The first shots of the Texas were directed, as I have 
 
270 Philip's own story op Santiago 
 
 said, at the Teresa at long range, as we were steaming 
 almost direct for the harbor entrance. In a very few 
 minutes the engagement had become general. Every 
 one of the Spanish vessels fired as she came broadside on, 
 rounding the western point of the harbor entrance, and 
 the whistle of shells passing over our heads became 
 unpleasantly frequent. Occasionally I saw a column of 
 water shoot straight up in the air, geyser-hke, where 
 one of their shells had struck near the ship, but, as nearly 
 as I could tell, most of their shots had too great elevation 
 and were passing harmlessly over us. I had altered the 
 Texas's course to the westward, seeing that that was the 
 direction in which the Spanish squadron was going. 
 
 Then occurred the incident which caused me for a 
 moment more alarm than anything Cervera did that 
 day. As the Texas veered westward, the Brooklyn was 
 plowing up the water at a great rate in a course almost 
 due north, direct for the oncoming Spanish ships, and 
 nearly a mile away from the Texas. The smoke from 
 our guns began to hang so heavily and densely over the 
 ship that for a few minutes we could see nothing. We 
 might as well have had a blanket tied over our heads. 
 Suddenly a whiff of breeze and a lull in the firing lifted 
 the pall, and there, bearing toward us and across our 
 bows, turning on her port helm, with big waves curling 
 over her bows and great clouds of black smoke pouring 
 from her funnels, was the Brooklyn. She looked as big 
 as half a dozen Great Easterns, and seemed so near that 
 it took our breath away. 
 
 "Back both engines hard," went down the tube to 
 the astonished engineers, and in a twinkling the old ship 
 was racing against herself. The collision which seemed 
 imminent, even if it was not, was averted, and as the big 
 cruiser glided past, all of us on the bridge gave a sigh of 
 
s 
 
 
 ft. 
 
 
 56: 
 O 
 
"warmly engaged" 271 
 
 relief. Had the Brooklyn struck us then, it would 
 probably have been an end of the Texas and her half- 
 thousand men. Had the Texas rammed the Brooklyn, 
 it would have been equally disastrous; for the Texas was 
 not built for ramjning, and she would have doubled up 
 like a hoop. Few of our ship's company knew of the 
 incident. 
 
 It was really the one time in the battle when I thought 
 for a second that I should have to give in to that woman 
 in Brooklyn who shook hands with me just before the 
 Texas sailed, explaining that she was the last woman 
 who had shaken hands with the commander of the Huron, 
 that ship having been lost with most of her company 
 immediately after the fatal hand-shake. I always wanted 
 to fool that woman if possible. 
 
 This happened about a quarter to ten. The Texas, 
 after having exchanged compUments with the Teresa, 
 was thrashing the Vizcaya and the Oquendo with her 
 main starboard battery. They were then the second 
 and third ships in Une, the Colon, which was third in 
 coming out, having drawn inside of the Vizcaya. The 
 hottest part of the battle was at about this period. The 
 Oregon and the Iowa had come up with a rush. Both, 
 from their starting positions, came inside of the Texas, 
 the Oregon, by reason of her superior speed, gradually 
 forging ahead of us. We found ourselves warmly 
 engaged with a Spaniard which subsequently proved 
 to be the Oquendo. 
 
 The supreme disadvantage was the smoke from our 
 own guns. It got in our ears, noses and mouths, black- 
 ened our faces, and blinded our eyes. Often for minutes 
 at a time, for all we could see, we might as well have 
 been down in the double bottoms as on the bridge. One 
 had the sensation of standing up against an unseen foe, 
 
272 Philip's own story of Santiago 
 
 the most disagreeable sensation in warfare. As the 
 shells were screaming about our ears in uncomfortable 
 frequency, I decided — for the sake of the men exposed 
 with me on the flying bridge, as well as for myself — to 
 go to the lower bridge, which encircled the conning-tower. 
 There one could see as well, and some of the bridge con- 
 tingent, at least, would have the protection of being on 
 the lee side of the tower. In addition to the executive 
 officer, navigator, and range-finder, I had with me on 
 or near the bridge a corps of messengers. I found the 
 messenger system more advantageous than the sole use 
 of telephones and speaking tubes. For each watch- 
 officer there were special messengers who answered the 
 call of the officer's name. For instance, when I wished 
 to give a direction to Lieutenant Haeseler, in the star- 
 board turret, I called, "Haeseler!" and instantly a mes- 
 senger was at my side. I gave him the message, and in 
 an instant it was repeated into the ears of the officer. 
 These messengers, mostly apprentice boys, I found in 
 every case alert, eager and fearless. After the first few 
 moments of nervousness, they entered into the spirit 
 of the fight with a marvelous zest. I remember hearing 
 one of these boys, a yoimgster, surely not over sixteen, 
 in the very hottest of the battle, remark to another: 
 " Fourth of July celebration, eh ? A little early, but a 
 good one!" 
 
 That we left the flying bridge was extremely fortunate, 
 or providential. Within a minute — ^in fact, while we 
 were still on the bridge, making our way down the only 
 ladder — a shell struck the jamb of the starboard door 
 of the pilot-house and exploded inside, wrecking the 
 paneling and framing, and carrying away the after- 
 bulkhead. Had we not gone below, the wheel-man must 
 have been killed, and probably some of the others stand- 
 
"little or no confusion" in the TEXAS 273 
 
 ing on the bridge. This was the first of the three times 
 we were struck. 
 
 The Texas fired from her main battery only when a 
 good target could be plainly seen. I gave explicit orders 
 to that effect, and they were carried out faithfully. 
 When the smoke lifted and the enemy could be seen, the 
 gunners took careful aim and fired deliberately. It 
 seemed better to fire a few shells and place them, than a 
 great many and lose them. Had it been necessary, 
 thanks to the improvements made in the turret appli- 
 ances by Lieutenant Haeseler, we could have pumped a 
 shell every minute and a haK from each of our 12-inch 
 guns. As it was, the men in the Texas turrets have rea- 
 son to congratulate themselves on the fact that the two 
 big shells which did find their way into the Spanish ves- 
 sels, so far as discovered by the official board of survey, 
 were 1 2-inch shells. 
 
 There was credited to the Texas little or no confusion 
 in any part of the ship at any time in the course of the 
 battle, and no orders went wrong. Although most of the 
 ship's company had to work, as it were, in the dark, they 
 had been well drilled, and did their duty with mechanical 
 precision, fortified by intelligent patriotism. 
 
 At ten minutes to ten, as we went to the lower bridge, 
 the Iowa, Oregon and Texas were pretty well bunched, 
 holding a parallel course westward with the Spaniards. 
 The Indiana was also coming up, weU inside of all the 
 others of our squadron, but a httle in the rear, owing to 
 her far eastward position at starting. The Oregon drew 
 up with the Texas, and blanketed her fire for a moment 
 or two. 
 
 In the course of our fight with the Oquendo a shell 
 exploded over our forward superstructure. The con- 
 cussion Hfted the bridge contingent off their feet. I 
 
274 Philip's own story of Santiago 
 
 remember pitching up in the air, with my coat-tails 
 flying out behind me, as if I had been thrown by one of 
 Roosevelt's broncos. No one was hurt except Cadet 
 Reynolds, one of whose ear-drums was split. Our port 
 cutter was blown into kindhng, the woodwork of the 
 superstructure was torn to bits, and the ship took fire. 
 But the Texas was ready for just such an emergency, 
 and in a twinkling a score of willing men were plajdng 
 the hose upon the blaze, regardless of danger. 
 
 A few moments later the Spaniards got in a luckier 
 shot. A shell about six inches in diameter struck for- 
 ward of the ash-hoist, and, after passing through the outer 
 plating of hammock-berthing, exploded, the mass of 
 pieces penetrating the bulkhead and casing of the star- 
 board smoke-pipe. This shot, fortunately, hurt nobody, 
 but it caused considerable excitement in the fire-room. 
 Fragments of the shell dropped down there; the ham- 
 mocks and portions of the sailors' clothing stored in the 
 berthing caught fire and also fell below, causing such a 
 gush of smoke in the fire-room that some of the men 
 thought the ship had blown up. That there was no 
 panic there, nor anything like one, speaks volumes for 
 the discipline of the men and the efficiency of the engi- 
 neer officers. 
 
 Soon after ten o'clock we first observed the so-called 
 destroyers, and at once turned our secondary battery 
 upon them. The Iowa, Oregon and Indiana also devoted 
 their attention to the much-dreaded little craft. The 
 hammering they got from the four ships must have been 
 terrific. As we passed on down the coast, leaving the 
 destroyers in the rear, we saw the Gloucester was pounding 
 them to a finish at close range. The Furor, the leading 
 destroyer, blew up with a crash that sounded high above 
 the roar of battle. There was a great gush of black 
 
Philip Watching the Chase. 
 (By Courtesy of the Centm-y Company.) 
 
THE BURNING SPANISH CRUISERS 275 
 
 smoke, and a sheet of flame seemed to leap above the tops 
 of the hills under which the doomed craft lay. The men 
 of the Texas have always insisted that this was caused by 
 a shell from Ensign W. K. Gise's 6-inch gun. 
 
 About a quarter past ten the Teresa, which had been 
 in difl&culties from the moment she left the shelter of 
 the Mono, turned to seek a beaching place. She was 
 on fire, and we knew that she was no longer a quantity 
 to be reckoned with. Five minutes later, our special 
 enemy, the Oquendo, also turned inshore. The 
 Vizcaya was then in the lead, with the Oolon not far 
 away and inside. It seemed to us as if the Colon were 
 trying to shield herself, and that was undoubtedly the 
 reason why she gave us so long a chase. When her 
 sister ships were blown up she was uninjured. 
 
 At twenty-five minutes to eleven, as the Texas passed 
 the Oquendo, that ship ran up a white flag, and I gave the 
 order, "Cease firing." The Oregon and the Brooklyn 
 were in the lead, the Oregon considerably farther inshore, 
 hammering at the Vizcaya and the Colon. The two 
 Spanish ships ashore were seen to be burning fiercely. 
 We could see boatloads of men leaving them. The 
 Indiana and the Gloucester went in to receive their 
 siu-render and rescue their survivors, while the rest of 
 us pushed on after the two remaining ships. Then we 
 knew that the b'attle, which had lasted less than an 
 hour, was virtually over. But there were still two of 
 the enemy's ships to run to ground. The Colon forged 
 well ahead, and was running like a greyhound for safety, 
 but keeping so far inside that she followed the sinuosities 
 of the coast. The Texas followed the Oregon at her best 
 speed, the men in the engine and fire-rooms working 
 like beavers. The Vizcaya kept blazing away viciously, 
 but the pounding she got from our four ships, more 
 
276 Philip's own story of Santiago 
 
 particularly the Oregon, was too much for her, and in 
 half an hour she too headed for the beach. At a quarter 
 to eleven the Brooklyn was abeam of her, about two 
 mUes outside; the Oregon was nearly abeam, half a mile 
 farther inshore; and the Texas was on? the starboard 
 quarter of the Oregon and about a mile in the rear. All 
 three were steering parallel courses to the westward. 
 The Vizcaya was still firing occasionally, and at fairly 
 long intervals our ships took a well-aimed shot at her. 
 We could see that she was on fire, and knew that her 
 surrender was only a question of time. Just after eleven 
 o'clock she veered toward the shore. The Oregon and 
 the Brooklyn paid no further attention to her, but put 
 after the Colon, which was scurrying westward at a 
 great rate. As we drew up on the Vizcaya, a moment 
 or two later, her stern flag came down on the run. There 
 were colors still flying from her truck, however, and as 
 she displayed no white flag, some of our officers thought 
 that she might not yet have surrendered, and that the 
 stern flag might have been shot away. But we could 
 not fire on her, even if she had not surrendered. Flames 
 were shooting from her deck fore and aft, and as her 
 nose touched the beach two tremendous explosions in 
 succession literally shook her to pieces. The Iowa having 
 been signalled by Admiral Sampson to go in to her, I 
 determined to push on with the Texas, to render assis- 
 tance, if any were needed, in capturing the last survivor 
 of the squadron. 
 
 That ship, wiUest of all the Spanish vessels, was making 
 a great race for liberty. Something might happen to 
 the Oregon; the Colon was supposed to be the superior 
 of the Brooklyn in strength : it was very clearly the duty 
 of the Texas to keep along in the chase, with all her 
 energies. It gives me pleasure to be able to write 
 
'enemy has surrendered 277 
 
 that, old ship as she is, and not built for speed, the 
 Texas held her own and even gained on the Colon, in 
 that chase. When it was seen later that there was no 
 earthly chance for the Colon to escape, I shut off our 
 forced draft, remembering the hard-working and gallant 
 fellows in the engine and fire-rooms. In this chase but 
 few shots were fixed on either side. It was a test of 
 engines, and not of guns, and we hoped to capture the 
 ship uninjured. 
 
 For two hotu-s this grim and silent chase was pursued 
 over the smooth and foamless seas, under a sky of blue, 
 and with a background of beautiful Cuban mountains. 
 The Colon, following the coast, was in a trap. The 
 Brooklyn, drawing ahead, made to cut her off at a point 
 of land jutting out farther westward. The Oregon, 
 nearly abeam, cut off any attempt to escape by striking 
 out to the open sea. The Texas, in her wake, prevented 
 her doubling. Hemmed in on all three sides, there was 
 only the shore to choose, and the Colon wisely chose it. 
 At a quarter past one the Colon surrendered and beached. 
 The Texas signaled, "Enemy has surrendered." The 
 signal was repeated by the Vixen, then coming up behind 
 us, to the New York, some miles to the eastward, but 
 was not acknowledged. The Texas closed in on the 
 Colon a few minutes after the Brooklyn and the Oregon. 
 
 It has been asserted that Cervera would have had a 
 better chance had he led his squadron to the east instead 
 of to the west. He then would have had a clear run, 
 with only the Gloucester in the way, and the only one of 
 our blockading ships supposed (on paper) to be the equal 
 of his in speed, the Brooklyn, away over at the westward 
 end of the line. But he must then have reckoned with 
 the Indiana, the speed of which was impaired, but whose 
 guns and men were not ; he would have run into the teeth 
 
278 Philip's own story of Santiago 
 
 of the New York, coming up from the direction of Siboney, 
 and the Oregon and the Iowa would have had as good a 
 chance to go after him to the eastward as they had to 
 the westward. For my part, I cannot help thinking 
 that had Cervera been able to steam straight out, radiating 
 the ships of his squadron from the Morro as a center, 
 one or more of them, in the confusion that must have 
 resulted, might have got safely away for the time. More 
 especially would this have been the case had he sent 
 hisf torpedo-boat destroyers in advance, under fuU head 
 of steam, straight for our line of battle-ships. I do not 
 think that the destroyers could possibly have lived long 
 enough to do any damage to one of our ships. They 
 would have been sacrificed, but they were sacrificed 
 anyhow. The effect might easily have been, I conceive, 
 that, with our ships blanketed in the dense smoke from 
 their guns and not knowing at times whether their neighbor 
 was friend or enemy, some of the Spaniards might have 
 pierced^bur line and got to the open sea without material 
 injury. But the reception they got, Hterally at the 
 very moment of showing themselves, made it advisable 
 to hugilthe shore and keep one eye out for a soft place 
 to beach, where, if life survived the peril of shot and 
 shell, it might not be snuffed out by drowning. 
 
CHAPTER XXXII 
 
 CONCLUSION 
 
 AS we have already seen, Philip, at the conclusion 
 of the Spanish war, served on sea duty a short 
 . " time, and on January 14, 1S99, took command 
 of the New York Navy Yard. It was the pleasure of 
 the writer to meet "Jack" Philip in the commandant's 
 office of this yard, shortly before the admiral's lamented 
 death, Philip was just receiving a sailor who had fought 
 under him at Santiago, and whose splendid record 
 really entitled him to exceptional recognition. The 
 old tar evidently had ferreted out all the snug berths 
 ashore and presented the list to Philip — any one of 
 which, the gallant Jackie said, would suit him. It was 
 a long list, including a position as page in the U. S. 
 Senate, messenger in the Treasury Department, door- 
 keeper at the White House, etc. The Commandant 
 patiently Kstened to the argument and having gravely 
 scanned the hst, laid it down and said: "My lad, you are 
 too modest. Your record entitles you to something 
 better. I would prefer to secure for you a Democratic 
 nomination for Congress in a Tammany district, or a 
 consul-generalship in the Diplomatic Service, or a com- 
 mission as a lieutenant in the navy, or an appointment 
 as Master of the Buckhounds to Her Majesty Queen Vic- 
 toria. Any of these would be easier for me to secure 
 than the jobs you have asked for — I have, absolutely, no 
 political influence ! ' ' 
 
280 CONCLUSION 
 
 On June 30, 1900, Philip died at the Commandant's 
 home in the navy yard. The funeral was attended by 
 many of the distinguished men of the country, the inter- 
 ment taking place in the beautiful cemetery at Annapolis, 
 near the Academic grounds where he had received his 
 first training for naval service. His widow and two 
 sons survive him. 
 
 L'ENVOI! 
 — — 
 
 Years have gone by since together we trod 
 The deck and looked forward to fates fair and bright, 
 
 And now by old Severn, you're under the sod, 
 
 Loaded with honors. Old messmate, good night. 
 
 Grit to the bone in the face of the foe, 
 
 Fierce as the cyclone in hazardous fight. 
 Soft as the south wind for hurt or for woe, 
 
 Ghivalric seaman, Jack Philip, good night. 
 
 " Don't cheer, they are dying. Thank God, we have won," 
 Gries the soul of the man in the victory's height. 
 
 Faithful below, every duty was done; 
 
 Now aloft, like " Tom Bowline," brave captain, good night. 
 
 Good night, ay, good night, in the language of Time, 
 
 Its joys, its sorrows, its greetings or warning. 
 But in the fair dawn of a happier clime 
 
 God willing, old friend, I shall hail thee good morning. 
 
 J. &. P. 
 {Philip's shipmate in the Wachusett.) 
 
 -0 — 
 
 THE END 
 
E 182.P54Ml'6 ""'™""^ """"^ 
 '■'^in"™atete?„,9L;;j?ck ".MlP. re 
 
 3 1924 028 732 885