AND
WINE MAKING
in the
SOUTH,
WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE BEST VARIETIES
OF GRAPES FOR THE VINEYARD; SOILS;
ASPECT, PREPARATION OF THE
GROUND, PLANTING, &c.
REMARKS ON THE BEST METHODS OF PROPAGATION—THE MAKING,
BOTTLING, AND KEEPING OF WINE; DISTILLATION
» OF BRANDY, MAKING RAISINS, &c., &c.
By A. De Caradeuc, of S. C.
With an Appendix, by D. "EDMOND, of Augusta, Ga.
a
second edition.
AUGUSTA, GA:
D. REDMOND, PUBLISHER.
1859.
(„
INTRODUCTION.
One of the earliest plants cultivated upon the earth is the Grape
Vine. History proves this beyond controversy—the Bible gives it an
honorable place in its oldest records, and we find a god created in honor
of it in the earliest days of mythology, showing in what high repute its
culture was held in those remote times. Since then, it has lost nothing,
and has kept pace with civilization, following it to the very Northermost
limits allowed it by Nature, and acquiring an importance in the Old
World second to none save that of the Wheat. A new Continent was
discovered, abounding with wild vines of extraordinary vigor and beauty ;
the climate and soil ax*e of the best. Nature has done all she could, and
has only left to the energy of the American race to seize and improve
these gifts. Who can doubt the results ? Already are our heretofore
worthless Pine lands rivalling in price and value our richest Cotton
lands, and surpassing them in richness of produce. It is not, perhaps,
out of place here to recall a few advantages which the Grape Vine
possesses over most other plants. If compared with other fruit, we find
it by far the most hardy, cultivated on a broader belt of land, estending
from the 20th° of North latitude to the 45th°, to say nothing of the S.
hemisphere, growing higher upon the mountains, suiting itself to a greater
variety of soil, from the rich bottom of the valleys to the rocky, barren
hill-side, where nothing else will grow—producing more fruit to the acre
than any other—bearing ill-treatment, neglect, abandonment, with perfect
good nature, (if we may use such an expression)—and, if injured by an
inexperienced hand, or by accident, easily renovated by another year's
more judicious pruning. It is more quickly and surely propagated than
any other tree or shrub. It lives much longer than apples, peaches,
pears, etc. Its produce can be used immediately like all other fruit, or
can be kept most profitably, for years, in the shape of raisins, wine,
vinegar, brandy, etc. —an immense advantage possessed by no other plant
to that extent.
If compared with other crops, such as cotton, corn, rice, wheat, etc.,
we find the chances of success two to one in favor of the Grapes; and it
should not be forgotten that they are usually planted in the poorest of
sandy hill-sides, adapted to nothing else, and on which the proprietor
can live and enjoy health, while the other crops require the
richest of lands, always more or less sickly. Mr. K. Buchanan, than
whom no better authority in America, says : " The Grape, like other
crops, is subject to casualties, but my own experience thus far proves it
to be more reliable than even the Apple, the hardiest of all our fruit.
With me it has never failed to pay more than expenses, and even tlf
j£ear, (1857) the worst of all, it will pay a few hundred dollars; in.goqc
4
years it pays enormously." Can as much be said of any other crop' •
It has often been asked, how many gallons per acre will the Grape yield
upon an average ? That question is as difficult to answer for this crop
as it is for cotton, corn, etc. Much depends upon the land and upon the
season. On ordinary sandy pine lands, such as would bring from 5 to o
bushels of corn per acre, the yield of wine in an average season will be
about 300 gallons. On richer clayey lands, such as are being now
planted in many places, the yield is larger, and is said to reach to 1,000
and over. Aaain, of the different varieties of Grapes, some will produce
more than others, and foremost among these stands the Scuppernong,
then the Catawba, the Warren, the Isabella. The above figures will
show, that acre for acre, a vineyard will yield considerably more revenue
than the best of cotton, corn or rice land. The wine sells currently at
$2 per gallon. One acre will thus produce from $400 to $600. Rice,
which is by far the most productive of Southern crops, yields, under the
most favorable circumstances, from 60 to 80 bushels, worth ^$2 per
bushel, orj$120 to $160 per acre. These are not mere surmises, but
positive facts.
Many persons are under the impression that the wine business will
be overdone in a few years, and the market will become overstocked.
Put of this there is not the least fear. The same cry was raised when
the cotton planting took such an impetus at the South, and yet, notwith¬
standing the enormous increase of the supply, we see that the demand
still keeps ahead of it. In 1857 upwards of 8,000,000 gallons of wine
and brandy were imported into the United States, notwithstanding that
we have not yet learned to drink wine.
In 1856 900,000,000 gallons of wine were made in France alone.
This quantity is now decreasing every year, on account of the grape
disease, and the prices have doubled and trebled since then. We hear
from every wine growing country of the Old World similar accounts of
the decrease in the wine, and consequent increase in prices, while it
seems that our American Grape Yines are not liable to that fearful
disease. This is surely great encouragement for us, and with all the
facilities we possess at the South, with our soil, climate, and more par¬
ticularly our slaves, nothing can prevent ours from becoming the greatest
wine country that ever was. Several eminent wine growers, and among
them Mr. R. Buchanan and Mr. Longworth, have freely expressed the
opinion that the sand hills of Georgia, North and South Carolina, were
more'- favorable for vineyards than those of the Northwest. Indeed,
nature seems to have selected those three States as the birth-place of all
the choicest American Grapes. The Scuppernong, the Catawba, War¬
ren, Isabella, Lenoir, Herbemont, and probably the Pauline and Black
July, all hail from the South.
Let us now review the several Southern varieties of Grapes, such as
they are at present known to us. In order to do so, we must commence
at the beginning; we must start at Nature's starting point, and trace
what she has done for us, for we have yet done nothing.
In this and other Southern States, as far as we have been able to
ascertain, there are three distinct species of wild grapes, of which there
exists varieties of each also in a wild state. These varieties have been
mistaken by some for different species. But from their habits and other
chafacteristics there can be no difficulty in referring them to their original
fcock. These species are the Bullace, the (Estivalis and the Muscadine.
5
The BULL ACE or BULL GRAPE,
(Vitis Rotundifolia,)
Also erroneously called by some, Fox. This most hardy plant grows
everywhere in this State—in the poorest land or on the richest—in the
swamps of the low country and on the tops of the high sandy hills of the
up-country. Everywhere it thrives and bears an abundance of fruit,
much sought after by hogs, turkeys, opossums and children ; in the fall of
the year it is a perfect manna for them.
The wood of the Bullace is whitish, slender, although the main
stem will acquire a considerable size ; flexible and strong, often used by
negroes for tying. It has no pith as in other vines, which peculiarity ren¬
ders it very difficult to grow from cuttings. It throws out innumerable
small branches, on which grows the fruit; the eyes or buds are very small,
covered with a scale, and reddish down. The leaves are very small,
heart-shaped and dented, (rotundifolia evidently a misnomer) glabrous,
and very different in appearance from any other.
There are many varieties of this species, but with the exception of
the Scuppernong, they only differ from each other in the size and flavor
of the fruit, this being a little larger or a little sweeter in some vines
than in others ; the wood and leaves remaining the same.
Fruit round, from a half inch to over an inch in diameter, brown
black and shining before maturity, but of a dull black when fully ripe ;
tough, with small dots upon it; sometimes very sweet, and always
having a strong, musky flavor. The fruit grows singly or in small
clusters of from 4 to 8 berries. We have been told, but this fact has not
come under, our personal observation, that the Bullace when grown iu
swamps is superior in every respect to the fruit grown on high land.
If this be true, it would be a singular peculiarity, being in direct opposi¬
tion to the rule of other grapes.
Scuppernong.
This is the only distinct variety of the Bullace ; it is a white yel¬
lowish fruit, dotted like the black ; the leaves and the wood are a shade
paler than those of the Bullace. It is a native of North Carolina, and
was found wild on the banks of the Scuppernong river. Much has been
written in praise or against its qualities for the table and for wine ; in
the former capacity, it will rank according to the taste of those who eat
it; it is very sweet, somewhat too musky; easy of transportation ; the
skin is tough. We have eaten black Bullaces equal to it in every respect.
We are told that good wine has been made from it. We cannot
speak from experience in this respect; the juice, however, requires a
considerable addition of sugar and brandy. If it cannot be made into
wine without this, it is not worth cultivating extensively, which is much
to be lamented, for it is a most hardy plant, not at all subject to mildew
or rot, and a sure and prolific bearer; but its berries do not ripen
together, the period of maturing upon the same vine, extending over one1
month, and the fruit dropping as it ripens, renders the gathering tedious
and the vintage would have to be done at several different times. It if
to be hoped that some precious seedling of this or the black will unite tlu
vigor and productiveness of this to the better qualities of others.
The Scuppernong is of difficult propagation from cuttings, owing t<
the peculiar texture of the wood which has little or no peth; it can
6
however, be grown in that manner with great care. It is mostly
increased from lawyers which take root very easily, or from grafting upon
the wild Buliace. From the way that those grapes grow, bearing the
fruit singly or in small clusters upon the small branches, it follows that
pruning will diminish the crop in proportion to the number of branches
removed; they should only then bo trimmed in order to give them a
more convenient shape, 6r to remove dead limbs, and it is pi'oper some¬
times to diminish the yield to secure the constant bearing. Vineyards
of the Scuppevnong are laid out 10 by 15 or 20 feet, as they cover more
ground than others.
The Scuppernong will probably be more valuable for distillation
than for wine making. It still remains, however, to be proved whether
it will make a good brandy.
SMALL BLACK GRAPE.
(Vitis (Estivalis.)
The next r^ocie.* is a small grape, known by some as the Fox grape,
by others as tlr/" Small Black Grape." The term Fox is also applied
to the Buliace, or to the third species, more properly named " Muscadine."
There is no sufficient authority to establish the names of these species
upon a permanent basis; until this be done, it will be best, probably, to
adopt the name given to this by the Committee of the Pomological
Society of Georgia, " Vitis (Estivalis,"—"Summer Grape."
The present species has been called by Botanists, " Vitis Labrusca."
This name must not be retained, as' it belongs to the only known species
of wild grapes in Europe, the Labrusque or Lambrusque, so common in
the foresls or hedges of the South or middle of France, but differing
essentially from ours ; its leaves are glazed, its fruit small black. We
do not know whether, like ours, it is dioecious.
The berries of the (Estivalis are small, with thin skin, blue black,
and very seedy, seldom very sweet. We are here considering the general
type, for there are wild varieties of this vine, as well as ol the others,
differing somewhat in the degree of sweetness and in the appearance of
the fruit. The bunches are long, and, under favorable circumstances,
sufficiently large and packed ; the leaves are large, generally (not always)
lobed, rough. The young wood is very red, vigorous, pithy, with long
joints. This vine grows abundantly all over the State, in high as well as
low grounds, attaining, sometimes, enormous proportions, some (especially
of the male vines) being found nearly a foot in diameter. In this
respect it surpasses all others; it climbs to the summit of the loftiest
trees, extending its branches from tree to tree.
The (Estivalis Grape is destined to perform an important part in
the culture of this country ; it has already given us valuable offsprings,
and will, no doubt, produce others still superior to these.
We will now mention some of its cultivated varieties, and shall
confine our remarks to those found valuable here at the South. It
appears that in Ohio, and at the West generally, they give a decided
preference to the varieties of the Muscadine ; it may be that they have
not given others a fair trial, or perhaps they do not succeed as well with
;hem as with us.
The Warren
Kas leaves and wood much resembling the wild type, though the wood
T
is not quite so red. It is a very vigorous grower, and if planted in
proximity to others will krep tliem under and finally destroy them.
The berry is dark reddish brown, not Hue black, about a half inch or
over in diameter, very juicy and pleasant; bunches often large and
more or less compact; leaves very large, deeply lobed, and of a rich
green. This precious grape, which is a great bearer, gives a wine vary¬
ing in color from almost white to a shade darker than Madeira, according
to the time the juice has been left on the skins. It will not make a claret
or red wine. It is sufficiently strong to require no sugar or brandy to
preserve it from acidity, and will keep as well in a hot garret as does
the Madeira. A delicate sweet wine, and a first quality champagne
have been made from it, equal to any imported in beauty and flavor.
Black July,
(.Er roneously called Lenoir.)
A small blue black berry, closely packed on a medium sized bunch;
very sweet, not very juicy, and if allowed to remain on' the vine will
wither and finally dry up without dropping or spoiling in any way. It
never rots or mildews, but is not a large bearer. Wood light red ; joints
short, eyes small; growth of limbs very horizontal ; leaves dented, not
lobed, smaller than those of the Warren, and when young of a greyish
green. Wine dark rich claret, not unlike pure Port: a first quality-
wine ; proven by Physicians to be the best in the treatment of Typhoid
fever.
Herbemont.
Wood somewhat different from that of the Warren ; leaves not
lobed, dentate, round, large, coarse. Fruit resembling the Warren, but
with us far inferior in flavor and sweetness. This grape is described in
Western catalogues, and is considered valuable for wine. It is thought
by some to be identical with the Warren, but having both kinds in full
bearing, we differ from this opinion; indeed the difference is very
palpable. (This is probably the Gingnard of some.)
Lenoir.
General appearance of the vine not unlike that of the Black July,
but the bunches are considerably larger and shouldered, this seeming to
be the only difference between the two varieties—the berries being pre¬
cisely similar ; wine not yet tested. The grape described in the Report
of the Georgia Pomological Society, under this name, is the real
Black July.
Pauline,
(Formerly Burgundy.)
Berries reddish brown, transparent, juicy, very sweet, with very
thin skin ; about the size of the Warren. Bunches mostly loose, sometimes
compact, shouldered and large. A most delicious table grape; never
rots; in dry weather, if allowed to remain on the vine, will wither and
dry into raisins. Leaves large, round, dented, curved at the edges,
yellowish green, the ends of young branches having a peculiar brownish
appearance, as though diseased. Wood deep red, not spotted like the
Warren. Buds very prominent, Evidently of American origin, and
not European as its former name would imply. This grape may rank
"8
as No. 1 for the table, being equal in flavor and delicacy to any ■ir|ar°
pean fruit. The wine made from it is delicious, and will keep soun
over a fortnight after the bottle has been opened and half usec* > a
moderate bearer.
The above varieties, with several others not here mentioned, n0111
their being of inferior merit, or not well known, although differing il0IB
each other in leaf, wood and fruit, are nevertheless easily recognised as
belonging to the same family of "(Estivalis."
MUSCADINE.
(.Labrnsca, of some—Fox in Ohio.)
The wild Muscadine is not as common as either of the other species,
and it seems to require stronger land to thrive well. Leaves large,
dented, not lobed, coarse, leathery, white underneath. Young wood
grey, more slender than in the (Estivalis species. The second year the
wood sheds off its bark, which peels like strips of paper. The old wood
also sheds, and i :ie smooth inner bark often presents a singular white
appearance, which is peculiar to this species and most of its varieties.
Berries large, oblong, in clusters of 10 to 12, and in some vines
regular bunches; blue black with thick leathery skins, and a strong
musk}^ aroma. In a wild state not a pleasant fruit, being no superior to
the Bullace, to which fruit it bears some resemblance in size and taste.
Such is the parent of the Isabella, the Catawba, Cape, Bland's
Madeira, etc. These fine varieties have leaves more or less resembling
the original in size and shape; their young wood all grey, easily recog¬
nizable from the red wood of the (Estivalis ; all peeling off as above men- ,
tioned.
Isabella.
Leaves resembling in shape and upper texture to the wild type,
under surface nol so white. Wood yellowish, and similar in every re¬
spect to the wild Muscadine. Berries blue black, large, oblong, with B
to 4 seeds ; strong, musky flavor, very sweet. Bunches medium-sized,
not generally shouldered, loose ; very beautiful looking fruit; preferred
by some persons to any other grape. A great bearer, but like all grapes
of this family, if allowed to overbear, the fruit will not mature well.
Wine light claret, resembling St. Julien, and having the delicious
bouquet so peculiar to the Bordeaux wines The best for Summer
drink.
This grape is the most cultivated for the table at the North, where
it seems to succeed much better than at the West, and is preferred to
any other. On the high lands at the South it does remarkably well.
It is destined to hold a conspicuous place in all complete Southern
vineyards.
Oatawba.
This grape has already become celebrated from its being the favorite
in Ohio, and being extensively cultivated there, almost to the exclusion
of all others from their vineyards. Leaves and wood somewhat resem¬
bling those of the Isabella, the former having red veins. Fruit same
size, but differing in color, being what is usually called red. Flavor
honeyed to musky, rather strong. Bunches loose, and sometimes shoulder¬
ed. This grape makes an excellent dry wine, and a sood chapipagne.
A great bearer.
9
Bland's Madeira.
(Rose Grape.)
Mr. R. Buchanan, in his excellent work on the Grape, says this is
a delicious table grape, resembling the Catawba in its appearance, but
too tender for vineyard culture on the Ohio. From descriptions, we
think our Bland's Madeira identical with theirs, but it is far from being
a superior table grape. It has a decided astringency, which is not very
agreeable; it has no musky flavor. It fruits well, but the leaves often
drop before maturity, causing the fruit to remain in " static quo
We have not thought it worth propagating cither for the table or
the yineyard.
There are several other varieties of this species, not equal, however,
to the two first, or not sufficiently known to warrant recommendation.
Selection of Grape Vines for Wine Making,
In making a selection for a Yineyard, we would earnestly recom¬
mend the planting of several kinds. Many persons have completely
rejected, without a trial, every variety saving the Catawba. This is
injudicious to say the least. It is blindly following into the footsteps of
others who have not given a trial to the other varieties. The Catawba
will fail in some seasons, when other kinds will mature perfectly ; a
mixture would then ensure a good wine. There should at least be five
or six species in all vineyards, and of these the best so far known to us
and proved are : the Warren, the Isabella, the Catawba, the Pauline and
the Black July, and should the Lenoir prove better than the last, it
might be substituted for it. In good seasons, a separate wine might be
made from each, if preferred; in bad seasons put all together, or at least
two or three kinds in one. It is customary in the best managed vine¬
yards in Europe to mix a certain proportion of white grapes with the
Black; the first gives delicacy and refinement to the wine, the latter
color and strength. So far we have no white grape at the South or in
America, suitable for that purpose. Jt is to be hoped some will be ere
long obtained from the seed.
The most productive vines as well as the richest lands are not
always the best. Experience has invariably proved that the more fruit
does a viue produce the more inferior will be the wine made from it.
The tendency of our wine growers to boast of the large yield of their
vineyards, is very much to be regretted, in this early stage of the busi¬
ness, when it is so important that we should establish the reputation of
our wines. They sacrifice quality for quantity, and will very materially
injure the sales, for we have much prejudice to contend with, both in
favor and against us, the one as fatal as the other. It is perfectly need¬
less to maintain that this or that wine has been pronounced good by a
Committee, or by this or that Society. The world is finally to be our
tribunal; its judgment is unerring as it is refined, and is not easily
revoked when once pronounced. None but the very best of wine will
acquire a lasting reputation, and this never has and never will be pro¬
duced at the rate of 1000 gallons per acre.
Preparation of the Land, and Planting.
The Grape Vine will grow well on almost every soil, but as before
mentioned, the juice will not always acquire all the necessary qualities
10
for a choice wine. It is impossible to say which is, in a decided manner,
the very best. When analysed, soils entirely different in their compo¬
nent parts, have been found to yield a very superior wine. There arc
vineyards of great celebrity on all kinds of soil, from the lightest sand to
the stiffest clay, in calcareous lands, in granite soil, volcanic, rockym
places devoid of lime, etc., etc. But there are some general rules which
should guide us : the soil and subsoil must absolute])* be dry, not reten¬
tive of moisture ; well-drained, if level. In cold climates, the vineyard
must be on a Southern slope ; in warm climates, the Roxith-east, Last or
Northern exposure, or a level plain. A preference might also bo safely
given to light, porous, dry, sandy soil, when a selection can be made, as
the grape will be less liable to rot than on other lands, and will, generally
speaking, ripen better. New land is to be preferred, such as would
bring from 4 to 6 bushels of corn per acre. Clear the land, and break
it up with plows, as for corn, taking care, of course, to cut down and re¬
move all trees ; now get a parcel of small stakes, from three to four feet
long, and proceed to mark out the rows ; if the land be level, let the
rows be straight, but if on a hill-side, lay them horizontally or level, with¬
out regard to straightness ; this is in order to prevent the washing away
of the soil. The rows are best from 8 to 10 feet apart, to allow of driving
carts between to haul stakes or manure when it becomes necessary, and
in vintage time to facilitate the gathering of the grapes Having staked
off the rows to your satisfaction, proceed to open the trenches or ditches;
let them be about two feet wide, and from fourteen to twenty inches
deep. Large plows, followed by long shovels, will very quickly do the
work in sandy soil. The next thing vs to plant; this can be done in our
Southern climate from the middle of November to the end of March.
Some give a preference to cuttings, others to rooted vhes ; the first are
cheaper, but the rooted plants will gain one year, will succed more gene¬
rally, and there will be the following winter but few missing vines, if any
at all to replace, while the labor of taking up some, re-opening the holes
in the missing places and replanting, is very great, where cuttings have
been used. Another and very g/eat advantage in using rooted vines is
that you may, when the nature of the land allows it, put the lower roots
perpendicularly down, thus converting them into so many tap roots.
With a wooden compass having an opening of 44-"to 5 feet at the
points, mark out the places for the vines at the bottom of the ditches,
drop the vines in their places and proceed to plant. Two men with short
handled hoes will plant a great many in a day ; one deepens the hole to
let the roots go down some inches deeper than the bottom of the ditch ;
the other places the vine upright and holds it until the first has put earth
around it. If you have other hands, let them follow with hoes and refill
the trenches, so that the top eye of the vine will be on a level, or a little
above the surface of the earth. Put a short stake to each vine.to mark
its place. There is nothing more to do until the spring grass calls your
plows and hoes into use ; then work them as you would corn or cotton.
Two rows of peas or corn can be planted in between, and will not inter¬
fere in any way.
This simple and easy mode of preparing the land and planting the
rooted vines, has been proved, by positive experience, to answer perfectly
on all sandy soils of our piney lands, and on all such as have a proper
admixture of sand and clay. Vineyards eighteen yeai's old, and planted
simply in square holes, or in ditches as above, are yet in all their strength
11
and vigor, and show no signs of decay. The difference in the cost oi
this method of planting, and that of trenching the whole land, is so
great, that many persons of limited fortune could plant a few acres or
the one, while the other would be beyond their means.
First Year's Pruning.
In the winter, at any time between the 1st of December and the
loth of March, take a sharp knife, remove every branch except one, and
cut that down above the second or third eye of the last growth ; break
the land with a half-shovel plow as for corn, passing the nearest furrow
about twelve inches from the vines. Give them a stake about four feet
long; they will, in the spring, shoot out many suckers, and put out eyes
where they have no business ; cut out the suckers with a long-handled
chisel, and cut off all the eyes excepting the two or three you left in
pruning; these, as they grow up, should^>e fastened to the stakes, with
bits of soft string, bark or any thing else you may have at hand. Keep
the land cultivated with plow and hoe, and plant peas between.
Second Pruning..
The second winter's pruning is a Repetition pf ftie first, but you
must replace the small stakes by good^sting wood, from six to eight feet
long. There will be some fruit. The summer's work is the same as
above.
Third ^uning?
The third winter's pruning is different: remove all branches or
canes, save the two strongest; of these, cut the highest about eighteen
inches long, and the other about three inches—the longest is intended
for fruit; the latter, which is called "spur," is to make wood for next
year. Towards spring, bend this long branch horizontally, and fasten
the end of it strongly to a short stakejgalaced at a sufficient distance. In
the West this cane is made to form a^Laaplete circle, by fastening the
end of it to the foot of the vine ; this iWcalled "arching." The object
of arching is to moderate and regulate the flow of the sap, in order that
it may fill all the eyes on the cane,>for if the canes were left perpendicular,
the sap would pass the lowest eyes, and rush upwards to the top. But,
in our opinion, arching overdoes the business, and the sap, whose ten¬
dency is always upwards, will most generally stop at the eyes on the
upper part of the arch, and develope them strongly; and those below
will put out very weakly, or not at all. While, when the cane is laid
horizontally, they all get their share much more equally divided. The
vine should also be strongly fastened to the large stake. All who plant
vines must plant out Osier Willow, whose twigs are superior to any
others for tying, although we have made use of the young twigs of Black
Gum, or the Wild Willow, and of the bark of young Hickory.
During this summer, the vines will throw out strong branches, which
must be fastened to the stakes as they grow, until they reach the
top, when they may be left to hang over. Plow and hoe as usual;
plow deep in winter and in summer make use of a scraper. After
this, the winter pruning is always, more or less, a repetition oi
this last; one spur, and one or two bearing canes, according to
the strength of the vine. In pruning, let the cut be clean and close,
leaving no small ends of dead wood, which will surely injure the old
12
stem. Among old vines, a small-toothed butcher-saw will greatly assist
the operation. _ .
We do not approve of summer pruning ; vines and fruit require a
the shelter thev can muster to preserve them from our burning sun.
Persons engaged in the grape culture should not lose sight of the objec
of pruning; it is to moderate and equalize the production of fruit, there¬
by improving its quality, and sparing the health and life of the vine.
We are often told that this or that person has a vine which is never
pruned climbs to the summit of high trees, bears abundantly, is very
old, etc, A single vine is very different from twelve hundred to the
acre!—and in many parts of Italy where they have adopted the tree
culture, the quality of the wine which formerly ranked high, has com¬
pletely been destrQyed. We never wish to see our vines average more
than from twelve to fifteen bunches each. Quality is better than
quantity.
General Culture.
Weeds and Grass are exceedingly injurious to a Vineyard. The
plow in the fall or winter, and then the scraper, and the hoe throughout
the summer, are^he best and mpst expeditious implements for keeping
the grass under. Tfcfe branches of the vine should be fastened, as they
grow, to the stakes with straw, jps of coarse bagging, or hickory bark,
until they reach the top of the stake, and then they can be allowed to hang
down, or reach to thejiext stake* They should never be shortened, as
that causes the side lrods to put jm,, and sometimes to bear bunches
which never ripen, and pnly exhafl^ the vines. It is necessary occa¬
sionally to manure the vines ; bone dust, or broken bones, vegetable ma¬
nures, well-rotted stable manure, cow-pen manure, ashes, are all very
good, the last probably the best. . The most approved mode of applying
it is to make a trench twelve inches deep, or an oblong hole 16 to 18
inches deep on each side of the vine-, and put in about a shovel full, more
or less, according to the strengtMpf the manure. Every year a small
portion of the weakest vines caJPoe thus treated, and the strength and
health of the vineyard will be kept up with very little trouble. Too
much manure is injurious to fruit, vin^and wine.
Diseases of the Vines and Fruit.
In Europe the oidium has in# some places annihilated the grape
vine, while in most others it has considerably diminished the production
of the vineyards. It is a white fungus which grows upon the leaves, the
stems and fruit of the vines, destroying all it feeds upon, often killing the
vine entirely, as is the case in Madeira and other places. A liberal use
o^ulphur is said to have somewhat arrested its progress in Europe, not,
however, without affecting the quality of the wine. This fearful scourge
has not yet made its appearance in America; and, indeed, it is said that
our native vines in Europe are exempt from it. Importations of Euro-
ropean vines should be entirely discontinued, lest we also import the
oidium.
The rot is the greatest evil we have to contend with. It is most
lauil on the Catawba, Isabella and Warren, the three most productive
grapes.
The cause is supposed by many persons to be an excess of water at
the roots of the vine in any clay subsoil, retentive of moisture; others
13
have attributed it to some defect in the soil; and it is also said t-hnfc
sandy soils are generally exempt from this disease. This is fcrm*
only to a certain extent. Moisture at the roots will certainly cause
the fruit to perish ; bat dry, porous, sandy soils are not free from the
rot, although less subject than others. The principal cause of the rot
lies more probably ip the atmosphere than in the soil. Our dew?1,
always heaviest after rains, are cold and impregnated with gazes or sub¬
stances perhaps of themselves injurious to the fruit ; the morning sun
comes out very hot, and acting upon the dew, may cause some chemical
change in the juice, productive of disease and consequent decay. In
support of this, can be brought the fact, that vines sheltered from the
dew are entirely free from the rot, while no substance yet added to the
soil has been found to prevent it.
It is needless here to notice other diseases of the vine, which are
either unknown here, or very rare. The leaves are sometimes shed from
injudicious treatment, such as allowing the grass to grow among the vines,
plowing in very wet weather etc., etc. A little care will obviate these
evils.
Insects.
The most annoying insect at the Seuth is a small green caterpillar,
about an inch in length when full grown, which curls up the leaf with a
silk, and feeds in security upon its substance. They are sometimes so
numerous as to destroy every leaf on the vine, thereby causing the fruit
to remain in statu quo. They should be destroyed by every possible
means ; fires at night to burn the moths which deposit the eggs ; lime
and water sprinkled over the leaves; sulphur scattered upon and under
the vines, and finally the raking up and burning of the leaves as they
drop, are the only remedies yet known. The Isabella and Catawba are
much more affected by this than the other vines.
Birds.
Nearly all birds are fond of grapes. A gun is the only remedy.
Frosts
Are occasionally injurious to vineyards, although very seldom as much so
as on the 28th of April, 1858. When the young shoots are killed, it is
best to cut them immediately down to the old wood ; another eye will be
soon developed, and most probably bear fruit. In Europe they not only
have to dread the late spring frost, but also the early fall frost, which
will often cut off the crop before maturity. This is not to be dreaded
here.
Propagation.
Grape Vines are propagated from CuttiBgs, Layers, Suckers, Grafta
and Seeds.
CUTTINGS
Should be from 14 to 18 inches long, from well matured wood of the
previous summer. In Europe they prefer them from two years old
wood, which in this country is exceedingly difficult to strike root, and
consequently rejected. If to be planted in the vineyard, 3 at least
should be placed in each hole to have more chances of success. Should
14
more than one take, the others must be removed, in doing which be
careful not to injure the one which is to remain. If the cuttings arc to
be planted in a nursery, select a tolerably good piece of land, dry and
not hard ; have it trenched to the depth of two feet; level the top; then
open a small ditch at one end of it, about one foot in width, between two
boards laid on the top, to protect it from caving in, and to make it
straight; put the cuttings in 2 or 3 inches apart, leaning them against
the board next to the beginning of the land, so that the top eye of the
cuttings will be as near as possible level with the board. ^ When you
have fixed as many as the ditch will contain, at the above distance, com¬
mence opening another similar ditch against the far side of the second
board, using the earth to fill the first containing the cutting; put the
dirt in carefully, not to disturb the cuttings—thus while opening one
ditch, you refill the one already planted; continue bo to the end.
Mulch, keep free from weeds, and water if possible. Cuttings should be
planted as soon as possible after being cut.
When a rare and precious grape is to be increased from cuttings, it
is best to cut them up into single eyes, and raise them under glass in a
box, or on a bed arranged purposely ; shelter them from the sun ; water
regularly, but do not keep the soil too wet; it would make them rot;
a common tumbler will answer the purpose ; it should be raised daily to
give air, and wipe the moisture off the inside. When the young shoot
has reached the top of the glass this can be entirely removed. The
single eyes arc also raised in jars upon hot beds and under glass, but the
box and tumbler is cheaper and easier, and the success is, for the least,
as great.
LAYERS.
The Scuppernong is best propagated from layers, as it is hard to
strike roots from cuttings. Others are also occasionally propagated from
them, but cuttings are always best. Layers are made in winter by
burying well matured wood of one year's growth. If intended to remain
where made, to replace a missing vine, it should be laid in a deep trench
and manure be added to give it a start. The next winter separate it
from the old vine; such layers will generally grow wonderfully, and
bear fruit the same season. If intended to be removed, lay them only
6 or 8 inches deep. Layers are also sometimes made in the summer by
covering young new branches with a shovel full of earth; they will strike
roots and give plants for the next winter, but such plants will never make
healthy vines, and are short-lived. Layers of all kinds are more or less
injurious to the old vine, and should be indulged in only to replace a
missing vine.
SUCKERS
Are young shoots starting at the foot of the stem, below the surface, and
having a few roots of their own ; by carefully cutting these, when prun¬
ing, from the main stem, and preserving the roots, excellent and vigorous
plants are often procured, which are equal to those raised from cuttings.
These are to be found, however, only on vines that were neglected durinc
the summer, as all suckers should be removed as they put out; like layers
they soon exhaust a vine.
GRAFTS.
An excellent mode of propagating valuable vines. Graft upon
pieces of root throughout the winter, and set out in beds like cuttings;
15
or graft upon young and vigorous vines in the spring, when the stock
has started its buds, an inch in length, as it will then bleed less than it
would earlier. Graft as you would an apple or any other plant, only
you need not mind that the barks coincide, as the sap in the vine runs
throughout the entire body of the stem, and not like in other plants, im¬
mediately under the bark. A vine grafted on a vigorous stock will often
attain a growth of 20 feet the first year, and produce abundantly the
second. Vines can also be budded, although this mode has not beon
much used.
In grafting, be careful to let the stook be of the same species as the
scion, otherwise the new vine would be of short duration. The Scup-
pernong upon the Bullace—Isabella, Catawba, etc., upon the Muscadine
tribe—Warren, Pauline, etc., upon the CEstivalis species, and the Eu¬
ropean vine would do best upon this species also, as it more closely
resembles their type.
PROPAGATION FROM THE SEED.
We would urge upon all engaged in the culture of the vine the
importance of planting each year a box of seeds, some "fspm the
choicest grapes of the season, and some from t^e wild-grapes of the
woods. So far, our best native grapes have been producecNfcom the
chance seed of wildlings, and no doubt other ch.oiee varieties will be pro¬
duced in the same way. It is yet a ihooted question which is best;
until decided, both should be tried. Plant the seeds in a box; the next
winter remove the young plants to a nursery bed, where they can remain
two years ; then set out. About one-half will be male vines ; they are
usually the strongest, and when ascertained to be such, can be used as
stocks for grafting upon ; of the other half, a large portion, perhaps all,
will be inferior and worthless. Some may be as good as what we already
have, and one or two might be valuable. One valuable new seedling
among a thousand would more than repay for the trouble. The great
desiderata to be obtained, are : 1st. One or more white grapes with srood
vinous qualities to mix with our black grapes—having sufficient produc¬
tiveness, not liable to rot, and hardy. 2d. Good table grapes, of differ¬
ent colours, white, red, black, with fewer seeds than those we now pos¬
sess, and not so liable to the rot; the number of seeds is the great defect
of our table grapes ; for wine it matters not.
To hasten the fruiting and proving of Seedlings they should be
grafted upon older vines ; if left to themselves, they are 6 or 8 years
before producing fruit.
Durability of a Vineyard.
It cannot yet be known how long a vineyard will last in this coun¬
try, as none are over 25 or 30 years. In Europe they last from 50 to
200 years, according to the soil or treatment they receive. To restore
a decaying vine, the best plan is to open a trench, two feet deep, four
long and one wide, in the row at the foot of the vine, and very close to it
put in six inches of well rotted manure and woods earth ; then cut the top
roots of the vine and force it bodily into the trench, raising two or three
of the youngest branches upright, then fill the trench with surface or
woods earth, and a little manure, so that the entire vine, excepting the
ends of the upright branches, is completely and deeply buried. The
growth during the next season is astonishing, and the vine will last and
thrive for many years.
16
Wine Making.
Our process for making wine is different from that followed in the
West and in some other sections. The grapes being gathered, and all
unsound or green berries removed, they are thrown into large tubs, or
half barrels, and thoroughly crushed with the hand ; the contents are
they emptied into large vats, (hogsheads) which are filled to within four¬
teen inches of the top ; cover these with homespun and boards, to keep
out gnats and flies. In a very short time fermentation commences ; the
mass swells and rises to the top. The nest morning the clear juice is
drawn from a foscet, near the bottom, and poured into a barrel;
when no more juice comes out, the mass in the vat is then carried to the
press, and what liquid remains in it is squeezed out; this is usually very
thick, and is put into another barrel, as it is of inferior quality. Be sure
that vour barrels are filled to within three inches of the bung ; less than
that would leave too much air in contact with the wine, and would cause
it to sour ; more than that would cause it to overflow in the fermentation
which for a few days will be very brisk; when this has subsided, fill the
barrels to one inch of the bung, with wine reserved for that purpose, and
close the bungs tightly. Be very careful that the barrel, tubs, vats, etc.,
all be perfectly clean and sweet, as the slightest degree of uncleanliness
would be fatal to the wine.
There now remains nothing to do until the nest winter, when the
wine is drawn into other barrels in order to clarify it. The dark Claret
is allowed to ferment on the skins for four or five days, in order to ex¬
tract all the color ; it is then treated as the others.
The above process has been for several years successfully followed
by pome wine makers at the South, and also in Europe. At the West,
and in many other places, the must is not allowed to ferment upon the
skins and stems; the grapes are pressed immediately, and the must put
into the barrels at once. Both plans can be tried, and will, no doubt,
both be found to answer—the first giving more color to the wine.
Treatment of Wine in Casks.
Yisit the cellar daily in order to obviate any defects or inconve¬
nience which might arise from a leak or other causes. It is necessary to
keep on hand a small quantity of the best wine to replenish the casks
whenever the wine in them has diminished, from leakage, evaporation,
etc. In the spring a second fermentation will take place, not as strong,
of course, as the first; when it has subsided, refill your casks, and keep
them tightly closed ; a handfull of sand over the bung will keep the air
from getting through by some unseen crack or hole. During the sum¬
mer the casks may again require refilling ; in doing this, insert a tube
into the wine and pour through that tube, in order not to stir the upper
surface of the wine in the cask, which often has a coat of mould, and
might, if mixed with the wine, impart to it an unpleasant teste. In the
fall or winter following, rack the wine; that is, draw, it from one cask
into another, in order to have it as clear as possible. After this racking,
it would be advisable to leave the wine 3 or 4 years in the casks before
bottling, being careful to refill them with your best wine whenever they
require it. Many oi the choicest wines of Europe are never bottled be¬
fore the fifth or sixth year, and then are left a couple of years in bottles
before oeing offered for sale; they there acquire that delicious bouque
17
so much prized by connoisseurs, and which ia wholly posterior to all
fermentation, and is entirely different from the "fruity flavor" of
some wines. The " bouquet" is not to be found in the grape juice ; it
is developed by age. The " fruity flavor " is something which sur¬
vives fermentation, and is of the same nature as the essential oils of fra¬
grant plants. The " bouquet" is distinctly perceptible in Madeira,
Bordeaux, Champagne; the " fruity flavor" mostly in Catawba and
some of the Moselle wines, in which last it is added in the shape of orris
roots, violets, etc., as these wines have no bouquet.
Bottling.
Let the bottles, of course, be perfectly clean, sound and dry ; fill
them to within an inch of the cork ; cork immediately; use none but
the very best of " velvet corks "—soften them in a cork crusher; dip
each in wine or good brandy, and they will then easily enter the bottle,
and will fit tightly; seal with a composition of Burgundy pitch, wax and
tallow, putting in enough of each to make it neither too soft nor too
brittle; when molted on a slow fire, dip the ends of the bottles into it,
and enough will adhere to seal completely; then lay your bottles on their
sides on a dry place. The Warren and Pauline wines will do best in a
warm, lighted room, such as would suit Madeira wine; while the Claret
wines will require a cool and dark cellar.
Cellar.
Those persons who wish to confine themselves to the making of
Warren and Pauline wines, or any of that class, can well dispense with
excavated cellars, as those wines seem to do best in warm, lighted rooms.
Those wishing to manufacture the light Isabella Claret, Lenoir and
Black July, must have a dark and cool place to keep them. An exca¬
vation beneath a hill-side is the best when practicable, as it can then be
ventilated at will; a little moisture is rather an advantage. It should
not be forgotten, in the selection of a spot for a cellar or wine house, that
water near at hand is absolutely necessary for the washing of barrels,
bottles, etc. In building a cellar or wine house, have it sufficiently wide
to leave a space of at least four feet between the barrels of wine and the
wall, as they require to be seen all around for fear of leakage ; and also
have the frame upon which the barrels are laid, elevated some two feet
from the floor, to enable you to see the bottom of the barrels, and also to
facilitate the drawing of wine, which can then be drawn immediately
from one cask into another on the floor.
Brandy—Vinegar.
If a cask of wine becomes a little acid from some cause, distil it im¬
mediately, and, if not too sour, it will give excellent Brandy. A common
still, of 40 to 60 gallons, can, with care, make brandy equal to the best
imported Cognac. The operation is easy and simple. Distil with very
slow fire, and the brandy will always be better.
Should the wine have become too sour, it is best to convert it into
Vinegar ; this is done by pouring a half gallon of warm vinegar into it,
and simply placing a cloth over the bung, to allow the contact of the air,
but not the passage of insects. Expose it to the sun occasionally, and
shake the barrel often ; when sufficiently sharp, bung tightly; never add
water.
18
Raisins.
Our Natives are too seedy to make good raisins ; but the following
is a good receipt: Take the best bunches, not too closely packed, remove
all imperfect berries or impurities ; of course, the fruit must be perfectly
ripe; dip each separately into a tub of lye water, hot, but not too much
so to bear the hand in ; then place them upon a trellissed^ frame, to in¬
sure perfect drainage and free contact of air ; dry them in the sun for
several days, and put up in tight boxes. They arc also sometimes dried
in ovens, without lye ; no sugar is to be added.
Grapes are kept fresh for winter use between layers of paper, or
packed in oven dried bran, or tasteless saw-dust, or slaked ashes, etc.
The boxes must be very tight and close. We do not believe they can be
so well preserved at the South as in more Northern latitudes, from the
fact of our grapes maturing so long a time before cold weather. The
Malaga which comes to us in such excellent preservation, is often packed
in cork dust; but the dry and pulpy nature of that fruit is much more
favorable for keeping than our juicy grapes. Excellent jams, jellies,
cordials, etc., are also made from grapes.
Conclusion.
In the preceding treatise it has been endeavored to condense as
much easy and simple instruction as could possibly be done within such
narrow limits, and to avoid creating difficulties by learned dissertations
upon the niceties of the divers modes of pruning, training, tying the vines;
or upon the contending opinions of numerous sonologists in regard to the
principles of fermentation in and out of the vats, and to the measurement
of the density of must by Hydrometers, Saccharometers, iEnometers,
etc., etc. They are valueless to the farmers, and would only tend to
confuse the mind of many, and perhaps dishearten them. A baker may
make good bread, and yet be ignorant of the principles by which the
leaven will act upon his bread and cause it tc "*ise.
One of the principal advantages to the country to be derived from
Grape Culture is to enable the farmer of moderate means, as well as the
wealthy planter, to enjoy the benefit of a vineyard proportionate to his
means—adding to his income as well as to his comfort. Rice, sugar,
cotton planting, require immense capital, to be carried on to advantage.
A poor mr.a cannot attempt them—they are beyond his reach. Not so
the grape ; a few leisure days in the winter, of which there are so many,
and a few hours in the grassy season, devoted to one or two acres of his
hitherto poorest and most worthless land, will insure him a handsome
income, and a pleasant beverage more wholesome and agreeable than
Peach Mobby or Persimmon Beer, and more conducive to his and his
children's morals than Whiskey, that bane of our country, which it will
finally drive out of use.
APPENDIX.
GRAPE CULTURE IN THE SOUTH—No. I.
[From the December (1858) Number of Southern Cultivator.}
That the climate of the South, generally, is better adapted than that of any
other portion of the Union, to Grape Culture and Wine Making, is now generally
understood and admitted, not only by the intelligent portion of our own people,
but by the experienced Vine Growers of the North and West.
All that middle portion of the Southern States which is sufficiently elevated
above the coast range of flat pine land or "low country," will, if properly planted
and cultivated in the Grans, yield a better retu n for the capital and labor
employed than in any of our great staples. In fact, there are hundreds of thousands
of acres of poor and partially worn out hill-sides throughout all the older planting
States, which are unfit for th~ growth of either Cotton or Corn, that might easily
and cheaply be converted into profitable Vineyards and Orchards—the products
of which would find a ready sale ;;nd high prices in our own cities and the large
markets of the North Such lands as we allude to are generally healthy : they
can be bought at a very low price, and the capita) and "force" necessary to enter
upon the culture of the Grape or other fruits, is quite small, compared with that
required by anything like a respectable planting interest.
The writer has recently made a somewhat extended journey throughout the
North and West, for the especial purpose of noting the comparative capacities of
the different sections, and the systems of Grape Culture pursued in each; and the
result of these observations is a greatly increased confidence in our own climate
over any other that he has visited in the Union. As Grape Culture, therefore,
which has proved highly remunerative elsewhere, must be still more sn in the
South, and is destined very soon to become a most important interest among us,
we purpose giving a series of short articles embodying the experience of the most
successful cultivators in America—especially in the South, which requires a different
system from that pursued in the Northern and Western States, and Europe.
Location, Soil, Aspect, &c.—Any land above the immediate sea-coast of the
Southern States, sufficiently elevated for natural drainage—i. e., upon which water
will not stand, but run freely, without producing "washes" or "gullies," will answer,
so far as location is concerned Steep hill-sides are also suitable, but the expense
of terracing, walling, &c., will generally be found too heavy. As regards soil,
almost any texture will do, except a stiff, cold, retentive, baking "pipe clay," or a
soil underlayed near the surface with "hard pan," " bog iron ore,' limestone in
heavy slabs, &c , &c. Loose, broken rock is not objectionable, provided there
is intermixed with it sufficient soil to hold the proper nutriment for the roots;
and soils of a "drift" formation, containing loose rocks or very coarse gravel in
considerable quantities are generally preferred, for wine. Perhaps the very best
soil for the Grape, however, is a coarse gravelly loam, with a rather porous subsoil.
Such soils are always warm aid dry, and easily kept in a deep, friable, and
mellow condition—all of which points are essential to successful Grape growing.
20
As regards tisjHxt or exposure, that is of not much consequence, in our climate of
almost perpetual sunshine; but an Eastern, Southeastern, Southern or South
western exposure is generally preferred. Of these, perhaps the Southeastern is
the best; though any of those indicated will answer very well.
Preparation of the Land.—This is a point on which there has been much
discussion, and respecting which many extreme opinions have been expiesse .
The ultra-advocates of deep culture and heavy manuring, contend that it is abso
lutely necesssary to trench the land with the spade to the depth of from two to three
feet, turning it completely over, intermixing the different stratas of soil, and
applying a liberal quantity of manure, as the trenching progresses This system
we think unnecessarily laborious and expensive for this climate. It will cost from
$100 to $200 per acre, according to depth, quantity of manure, &c., and can only
be attempted by persons of abundant means, and full faith in the enterprise.
Those who feel the necessity of reversing and mixing the different soils, at a
less expense, use heavy turning-plows, drawn by from four to eight yoke of oxen
or teams of mules, and turn the land completely over to the depth of fifteen to
tweniy inches. Such, we believe, is now the practice of the Messrs. Wynn, of
Wilkes Co., Ga., from whom we shall be glad to hear more fully respecting the size
of plows, number of teams, depth of furrow, expense per acre, &c., &c.
Other gentlemen have succeeded in producing very good Grapes and excellent
Wine, by simply plowing the ground, as for corn; digging holes at the proper
distances, and using no other manure, for the first few years, than the surface
soil, or a little leaf-mould from the woods, applied at the time of planting. While
others, still vary the plain and easy system, by opening ditches or trenches (in
well-plowed land) at the proper distances, and planting the roots or cuttings in
these trenches, making holes below the bottom of the trench, when necessary
to admit the roots. Such, in brief, are the systems of our friends, Dr. McDonnald
and A. tje Cakadeuc, Esq., ofS. C., and we have heretofore often spoken of the
success which has attended the efforts of these gentlemen, both in Grape Growing
and the making of fine Wines.
Mr. Charles Axt, of Crawfordville, Ga., (well known as one of the most
successful vintners of the South), now prepares his land almost entirely with heavy
turning plows, followed by subsoil plows, and these again followed by turning
and subsoil plows—running four times in the same furrow, and breaking and
mixing the soil to the depth of fifteen or eighteen inches. Four separate pairs of
mules, with two turning plows and two subsoil plows, are necessary to do this
work expeditiously—though two teams may be made to do, by using a swivel or
hill-side plow, with a shifting mould-board, which turns the furrows all the same
way, and following this twice in the same furrow, with a good subsoil plow. When
only two teams are used, of course they will have to go over the ground again, as
before indicated—so as to run two turning furrows and two subsoil furrows in the
same place, throwing out as deeply, and intermixing the earth as intimutely as
possible. With the proper plows, good teams and good plowmen, the ground
can be prepared upon this plan at an expense of from $10 to $20 per acre. Oiher
systems, and fuller details upon this important matter, will be given hereafter;
and we respectfully and earnestly solicit the views and opinions of all our
experienced readers.
Distance of Vines, Quttings, Roots, &c.—We are fully convinced that
all our native varieties have heretofore, as a general rule, been planted too close
and trimmed too close ; and that the teachings of nature have been overlooked
or lust sight of. The vintners of Ohio are now satisfied that they have been
misled by the German and French vignerons, who, coming from countries where
land is very dear and the vine of much feebler growth, have not made sufficient
allowance for the rampant habits of our vigorous native varieties. As one of the
consequences of close crowding, and an unnatural effort to dwarf the vine by close
pinning, the vineyards in the neighborhood of Cincinnati, and elsewhere in the
West, present a very weak and languishing appearance, and are evidently hastening
to decay. The very finest vineyard we saw at the North, was that of Mr. E. A.
McKay, of Ontario County, New York—the vines of which (all Isabella,) were
21
planted exactly one rod (16 I -2 feet) apart each way. This vineyard has produced
twelve thousand pounds of marketable grapes per acre, which are worth in any
market, North or South, at least $100 per 1000 lbs., or $1200 per acre, and generally
sell at 50 per cent, over this price. Mr. McKay cultivates grapes for the table
only, as the climate ot the North does not produce grapes sweet enough to make a
keeping wine. We will give this gentleman's system of culture, pruning, &c.,
hereafter ; and while we do not wish to be understood, as advocating the extreme
of distance in planting, we are not disposed to plant nearer than 8 by 8 feet, and
for the strongest growing varieties, would rather pnjfer 10 by 10, or 12 by 12 feet,
each way. For vineyards, on a large scale, we prefer cuttings, as being more
economical and convenient; but for limited planting, garden arbors, &c., strongly
rooted vines, properly transplanted, may be found most satisfactory.
Varieties of the Grape for the South. — Many new varieties, that promise
great excellence, have recently originated from seed both at the North and South;
but these are yet too rare and dear for vineyard culture. The well-known and
comparatively abundant kinds may be briefly characterized as follows : Catawba—
a very hardy, vigorous grower and abundant bearer, generally free from rot or
mildew ; produces an excellent still wine like Hock, and a sparkling wine similar
to Champagne. (Vide Long worth's Catawba) When fully ripe, is also much
relished as a table grape, by most people. Isabella\—a hardy, vigorous grower—
eailier than Catawba—its berries do not ripen well together at all times; is a
tolerable table grape, and makes a very good Claret Wine. Black July or Lenoir—
earlier than either Isabella or Catawba—sweet, pleasant grape, moderate grower,
and rather shy bearer—makes a really good Port Wine. Warren—a rampant
grower and great bearer; liable to rot, but seldom fails of producing a moderate
crop—superior table grape, and produces a wine similar to the best Maderia.
Pauline—a strong grower and good bearer—as a table grape, the best on this
list, and produces a fine wine, similar to Golden Sherry. Scuppernong—i wonderful
grower and good bearer—adapted to lower, moister, and richer localities than any
of the others—must b§ planted at least twenty or thirty feet apart, and will yield
enormous crops when & few years old ; fruit, musky, sweet, rich, but lacking
in the elements necessary to produce a fine still wine. Will make a good sparkling
wine or champagne, and when the juice is distilled, produces a very peculiar and
excellent Brandy. D. R.
" Vineland," Augusta., Ga, Nov. 1858.
GRAPE CULTURE IN THE SOUTH—No. 2.
[Continued from December (1858) Number of Southern Cultivator.]
Preparation of the Land, Continued.—Since the publication of No. 1, the
writer has received numerous letters on the subject of Grape Culture, from all parts
of the Southern States; and as the inquiries of his correspondents seem to be mainly
directed to the cheapest and best method of preparing the soil for a vineyard, he will
give his own experience and practice, and go a little more into detail. In the first
place, then, it is absolutely necessary to have good tools in order to do work
properly and economically; and as spade trenching is too laborious and expensive,
we are necessarily obliged to adopt the plow. For all heavy work, heretofore,
we have used the "Deep Sod Tiller" and "Rich's Iron Beam" or "Washington"
plow, but these and all others are now cast aside and entirely superseded by
Utley's Combined Subsoil and Turning Plow. With the assistance of one
of our ingenious mecnanics, (Mr. G. W. Cooper, of Ogeechee, Ga.,) we have
made such alterations and improvements in this Plow, as adapt it especially to
the preparation of land for vineyards and orchards, and we can confidently re¬
commend it (in its improved foim) as the very best Plow we have ever seen for
deep tillage. With our present "means and appliances" for the preparation of land,
then, we can considerably lessen the estimate of cost given in our previous
number; and, as spade trenching cannot be adopted by the mass of Grape culturists,
22
wc give the following as the latest, cheapest, and hest mode of inaugurating the
culture of the Vine in the South:
Select a moderately sloping hill-side, with any exposure from east to south wes
—an old field is preferable, because more easily brought into cultivation burn o
all gr iss, weeds, broomstraw, &c., and carefully grub out all briars, roots an
stumps that might offer the least obstruction to the plow. With one of Uiley s large
plows, (properly set for subsoiling and turning) a pair of strong mules, and a goo
plowman between the handles, you are ready to commence. In the first plaee,
plow your land perpendicularly, up and down the hill, taking a very narrow
furrow slice (say 8 inches) and running as deep as possible. When you have
plowed the land in this manner, close and deep, "turn your hand" and cross-
plow the whole, horizontally, ox across the hill, running again very narrow furrows,
and as deep as possible. (Keep plenty of new plow points at hand, and change
as often as the old ones become dull.) After you have thus plowed and cross-
plowed, harrow carefully and closely, running around or across the hill If the
work has been properly performed, you will now find the whole of the land
thoroughly stirred and broken to the depth of from 12 to 15 inches, and you may
then proceed to lay off your rows. A Level, such as is used in hillside ditching,
will be of service to you in this matter, but is not necessary. We have always been
guided by the eye alone. Begin at the top of the hill, and lay off row after row at
the propf r distances circling in crescent shape around the hill, as in the following
diagram:
HILL SIDE.
These rows may be indicated by long stakes (which are more conspicuous if
freshly peeled,) and can be marked off by a steady hand, with a single mule and
a shovel or turning plow. After they are marked off plainly, take the Utley Plow,
as before, and run deeply either twice or four times in every row, backwards and
forwards, throwing out the earth both ways, and forming a trench 18 to 20 inches
deep.
Planting.—Set short stakes or sticks along the edge of this trench, at the
distances you intend planting, and let your hands pass along with their shovels,
filling in a mound or dam of surface earth, a foot thick and level with the edges of
the trench, at every stick. These mounds or banks of earth, that are formed in
the trench, may be left moderately sloping in the direction of the trench, so that
when the roots or cuttings are dropped in against them, they will lie at an angle
of about 45 degrees. Let us endeavor to explain, by another diagram:
trench.
a a a a a a
Ihe cross marks, a, a, &c , are intended to represent the little mounds of
surface soil that are filled in across the trench for the roots or cuttings to rest against.
When the trenches are prepared in this manner, one hand places the roots or
cuttings, leaning against these little mounds, at the proper depth, and another fol¬
lows and covers them with the shovel, using surface soil from the edges of the
trench. In planting cuttings, leave the top bud or eye just even with the surface;
or if it is slightly covered with light soil, it will break through, and perhaps be less
liable to injury trom late spring frosts. In planting roots, the strongest shoot of the
v.£ar must be retained and cut back to 2 or 3 good eyes, the lowest of these
23
to be about one inch above the surface. When planting, it is not absolutely
necessary to close or fill in the entire trench at once. Each root or cutting may
be surrounded with a foot or two of earth, at first and the intermediate spaces, in
the trench left open for a few days. If deemed advisable, a slight compost of leaf
mould, ashes and broken bones may be scattered in these spaces between the
plants for the future nourishment of the root, and the trench afterwards closed
by the shovel or the turning-plow.
In order to secure a good stand, it has been our custom to plant twice as many
cuttings as we intend to leave. For instance, if we intend our vines ultimately
to stand 10 feet apart in the row, we plant cuttings every 5 feet in the row, and if
all grow, take up every second one at the end of the first season, leaving the others
at the proper distance. This is better than planting two or three cuttings in a hole
together and removing all but one; as, by our method, there is no danger of
injuring the vine left behind.
Aftf.r Culture.—During the first summer, the entire ground must be kept
clean, open and mellow, by the constant passage of light cultivators or horse-hoes
between the rows, and if the soil is very clayey or retentive, it may be well to
make a wide open furrow [aid-way between each row, to hold surplus water,
and keep it from settling around the grape roots. This will rarely be necessary,
however, if the ground has been plowed and pulverized as we have directed; for,
such a large body of loose and porous soil possesses immense capacities for the
absorption and proper distribution of moisture. If your hill side is steep and
inclined to "wash" or "gully," it may be well to bed up two or three furrows of
earth on the lower side of each grape row, thus forming a sort of shelf or terrace
for each, which, with the centre furrow before described, will enable every row
to hold whatever water falls upon it, and prevent that "washing" and "gullying"
which is the consequence of a rush of accumulated water.
Mulching, &c.—After the first spring working of the Vineyard with the
horse-hoe or cultivator, it will be found an excellent practice to mulch or cover the
ground along the grape row«, two feet in width and four or five inches deep, with
partially decomposed leavesjiphopped pine straw, or some similar material, sprink¬
ling a little earth over it tip keep it in place, This mulching will prevent the
growth of weeds, restrain too rapid evaporation, &c., and, by its gradual decay,
yield considerable sustenance to the vine. It will, also, we think, have a tendency
to prevent the sometimes blighting effects of the refraction of the sun's rays from
a hard and baked surface; and if the canes are trained low and horizontally, will
be useful in keeping the clusters of fruit clean and unsullied
We deem it scarcely necessary to offer any further remarks on pruning,
making of wine, &c., at present; as the able and practical treatise of Mr.
de/Caradeuc is very full and explicit upon all these points, and may be safely
followed As new facts and experiments, connected with Grape Culture in the
South, are developed, we sha'1 take great pleasure in giving them to the public ;
and being desirous, in our humble way, of doing all in our power to further the
progress of this great enterprise, we shall be greatly obliged for information from
practical men everywhere.
In the preceding remarks, we have indicated our own preference for locality,
implements, &c., but do not wish it to be understood that level land may not
answer the purpose well, or that the work may not be performed with different
plows from those which we use. We deem it advisable to point out the easiest
and most practicable system, in order that land owners may be induced to give
the Grape a fair trial; feeling confident that the success which will follow this simple
and inexpensive plan of planting the Vine, will justify and induce a more
thorough and elaborate preparation of other Vineyards hereafter. We, of the
South, are in this, as in many other things, singularly oblivious of the great advan¬
tages of soil and climate which we possess; but we trust that the new spirit which
is beginning to prevail, and the many well-directed experiments now in progress,
will remove all doubt, and fully demonstrate the unrivalled capacities of our
favored section. D. R.
"Vineland" Augusta, Ga., Jan., 1859.