[: 2 7 i PESEESEREERSERPERIDI SoBe S PETE RL TE PERCE ROE REELED eae | ~~ 02 am SS ~— It’s That Dainty Wholesomeness $0 Relished in / DETER COOPER'S GELATINE TCT NET LEAT NEN TROT RI That Has Made It for 90 Years THE WORLD’S. STANDARD AS ETRE ETS RAPA APE ETI ETE IN - PURITY AND EXCELLENCE In Cauntless Homes—Fashionable Hotels—in Hospitals—wherever the best is demanded— the Celebrated Peter Cooper Gelatine is in daily use. Those Really Delightful Gelatine Dishes are impossible without PETER COOPER’S GELATINE Purest--Best--Makes Most CENTS THE PACKAGE a NS Ask Your Dealer \.. Peter Cooper’s Gelatine ‘ 111 BROADWAY Founded by Peter Cooper, 1822 A COLLECTION OF CHOICE RECIPES BY MONSIEUR A. ESCOFFIER, OF THE RITZ-CARLTON HOTELS, THE GREATEST FRENCH: CHEF @opyright, 1911, American-Joutnal-Examiner. eerste nee testing in their kitchens and on their own tables some of the favorite recipes of the great Monsieur Escoftier, of the Ritz- Carlton Hotels, is one which will prove a last- ing joy and benefit to the housewives of ree teeta MO THE GEA ay WEEN CM re N Y I CHEF. WHO GIVES IN ‘HIS BOOK lpnatar. New ¥ ale SOME OF HIS FAVORITE RECIPES. areatler: NEW) + OPK Wherever epicures gather to discuss toothsome viands the name of Escoffier is known and respected as that of the greatest. of French chefs. As some one has said, he 1s more than a chef—he is a genius who has raised cooking to the dignity of an art. From the fruits of his long experience in tempting 2 THE THANKSGIVING COOK BOOK pe ere I ee ee appetites in all parts of the world, Monsieur Escoffier has selected and presents to you in this little book a ehoice variety of recipes which he considers particularly well suited to American needs. They are published now. in book form for the first time in this country. The dishes for which recipes are given in this book are the same which have won the highest praise from the leading gourmets of Europe and America. Included among them are the appetizing delicacies prepared by Monsieur Escoffier himself for the dinner which the Kaiser pronounced ‘‘the best I ever ate.’’ This book of Monsieur Escoffier’s comprises a very complete elementary course in the fine a@rt%of French cooking. Besides the recipes, it contains a fund of useful facts for every lover of delicious things to eat. Of particular value to any one who has ever puzzled over a strange French word is the chapter de- voted to an explanation of terms commonly used in a French cuisine. TABLE OF CONTENTS. ce ; ; PAGH IPL OOUEIION Ss vaso sek ore ee tau le mcte a ack oh eal Appetizing Ways of Preparing Rabbit..................cecee 3 How. to Make-Good Rakouts icc os ie ee ee q Recipes for Pot au Feu, Macaroni and Spaghetti............. 10 Some New Ways of Preparing Tomatoes............ ate tua ete 14 RWW HRD MOIR es ors ys kes oe eee 19 A Dinner That Was Served Me in Perigord..........-..eeec. 21 Pe ROM OOM MOM. Sic cok i i ic, ae aria e ear 25 HOW. TOs NERS COOd SOUDS space Aas inc vis ohkn Eo icc oe 2 Wrench Cooking: Terms tixplainéds: ive oo ov ehws ances ees 28, Dainty Dessert Recipes Oe 0: C OTS 4b 6 Fee 0lg |e sole 6oe we he a BO 6lO be BO eee 6 ae Ways of Preparing Rabbit HE meat of the rabbit, whether of the wild or farm- yard variety, may furnish.many nourishing and attractive dishes for the modest household. It is especially suited to families where economy is important, because it is a low-priced meat. Whatever prejudice éx- ists against this meat must be attributed to lack of knowl- edge of how to cook it. Wild rabbits are abundant in most parts of the coun- try, and the farmyard rabbit is very easily bred. The farmyard rabbit is a very useful animal to the man who tries to raise a little produce as a help to his income from some other oceupation. I must warn my readers against allowing farmyard rabbits to feed on cabbage leaves, of which the animal is quite fond, as this gives the meat an unpleasant flavor. The wild rab- bit feeds by preference on aromatic herbs, and where they are abundant the flesh consequently has an excellent flavor. The best way of cooking rabbit is undoubtedly to saute it. I therefore recommend everyone who values the art of keeping house economically to master this method. Sauteing gives rabbit meat its greatest palata- bility, lending it piquancy where it is insipid and .eyen improving the flavor when it is actually unpleasant. THE THANKSGIVING COOK BOOK Rabbit Saute With Mushrooms. KIN a young rabbit, clean out entrails carefully and cut it in pieces. Put the liver aside, heat oil, butter and lard in a frying pan or a shallow saucepan; add the rabbit and put on a hot fire. Season with salt and pepper, add ‘an onion chopped fine, a piece of garlic the size of a small pea, a dozen peeled mushrooms, three tomatoes peeled and chopped, with seeds removed, a good sized pinch of chopped parsley, a glass of white wine. Cover saucepan and finish cooking ata moderate fire. If the rabbit is young fifteen to twenty minutes will be sufficient cooking. Rabbit Saute With Tomatoes. FTER cutting up the rabbit as in the first recipe, warm‘in a frying pan some olive oil, butter or lard. Add the pieces of rabbit. As soon as they are nearly cooked through and are begin-. ning to brown, season them with salt, pepper or a bitwof garlic and two or three chopped shallots. Add several fresh sliced mushrooms, a glass of white wine, two or three tomatoes skinned, seeded and chopped up, and a good sized pinch of chopped parsley and tarragon. Cover the saucepan or frying pan‘ and let cook for fifteen or twenty minutes. Rabbit Soup With Curry. AKE a young rabbit, slice up three large onions, put them in a saucepan in which you have heated two or three ounces of but- © ter. Let the onions cook at slow fire for fifteen minutes, add rabbit cut in pieces. Allow it to cook for five or six minutes more. Add two large soup-spoonfuls of curry powder, two. quarts boiling water, half ounce of salt, a fagot of parsley, a bay leaf and a mite of garlic. Allow to boil for thirty to: thirty-five minutes. Take out the pieces of rabbit, put them in the soup tureen and pour the cooking liquor over them, after having passed it with pressure through a strainer | with large holes. Add a few tablespoonfuls of rice cooked in salted water. Pilaff of Rabbit. Hvis cut the rabbit in pieces, put it in a saucepan in which you have heated two or three ounces of butter or lard. When the meat is slightly browned, season with salt and pepper and adda medium sized onion chopped up. Allow it to cook ten minutes, then add five or six tablespoonfuls of good rice soup. (Rice used in soups is parboiled in water for ten minutes and after water is drained off clear consomme is added.) Moisten with about 1% pints boiling water and reduce by boiling. Cover pan and finish cooking iB Oven, OY On a slow fire twenty minutes. BY MONSIEUR A. ESCOFFIER Rabbit en Blanquette. "3 agetenss having cut up the rabbit, heat in saucepan about two ounces of butter and add the pieces of rabbit. Cover saucepan to allow the meat to harden slightly without taking color. A few minutes are sufficient for this preparation. Then add salt and pepper, a large onion chopped up, a bundle made up of parsley, a bay leaf, a piece of garlic peeled, the whole well tied together. Sprinkle the pieces of rabbit with two tablespoonfuls of flour. Stir with a wocden spoon so that the flour may not stick to the bottom of the saucepan and to,keep it thin. Moisten with about a quart of hot water. As soon as the liquid is boiling put the saucepan on a slow fire and let it. cook about twenty to thirty minutes. Before serving thicken the sauce with two o1 three yolks of eggs, mixed with a little milk or cream. The sauce should not be boiling at this point. To make this dish go farther you may serve with it noodles or macaroni cooked with butter. To this may be added grated cheese or simply boiled potatoes. Rabbit a la Creme. AVING cut the rabbit in pieces, put them in a saucepan in which you have heated two or three ounces of butter. As soon as the meat is slightly cooked season with salt and pepper. Add a medium sized onion chopped fine, and allow to cook gently twenty or twenty-five minutes. By this time the cooking should be complete if the rabbit is tender and the onion should be a light brown. Then add a half pint of fresh cream and allow this to boil for five or six minutes.’ Finish the sauce with a piece of a good lemon. Season further if that is desired, and serve immediately. You may add to this dish raw mushrooms sliced up, which you have sauted a few minutes in butter. Rabbit a la Boulangere. REPARE the rabbit as in roasting. Then place it in a long earthenware or tin dish which will go in the oven. Surround the rabbit with potatoes and sliced onions. Season with salt and pepper, put a little bay leaf among the potatoes and moisten the whole with butter cr lard and cook in the oven for thirty or thirty-five minutes. Gibelotte of Rabbit a la Menagere. | Dae tl in the same way as in rabbit gibelotte; but add, after fifteen minutes’ cooking, potatoes cut in quarters. -You may add red wine instead of white wine in this recipe. : Roast Rabbit. FTER having skinned and cleaned the rabbit, tie it up in strips of cooking bacon~and roast it in the oven or spit. Moisten during the cooking with lard or butter, COOK BOOK Pa] NY Wabhhis Gari Rabbit Saute asseu ur . n [2] © * aa 2 us) n > oO 4 oD rs wf ct of all- ways of eee rabbit Te HIS i & in FE in their jack omit it with two table- spoonfuls of French and season it with salt and r ounces of lean bacon, put it in a and a dozen small Cut in little squares fou ; with two ounces of,lard or ofiions peeled. As soon as the onions begin ‘to color add two table- spoonfuls of flour . Stir with a wooden spoon and cook the flour with the butter two minutes mixed with Now add ae pieces of rabbit, which’ must 1 wine and) hot and mois stened with equal parts of the rabbit is covered with the li Add a fagot parsley, thyme, a bay leaf, a mite of Garlic, the whole ogether. Cover the saucepan and cook ‘thirty to thirty- w mushrooms 0 at a slow fire. You may add a few rz minut es’ cooking. gv UT up thé rabbit in “4 saucepan in» which-you. have ee two ounces of butter or lard. As soon as the meat. is li; pepper.. Add two medium size lions chopped up, allow the whole to pie about Behers 3 mi s soupspoonfuls ; curry _powd in quantity to cover e saucepan and cooking at a ity-five minutes. You may serve yked a la creole. bbit the neck, part of F %OR this dish you ¥ 5 the breast the legs and cross the eg Salt it ind Loist n with melted butter and then broil. hé time of cooking be about twenty minutes, After about fift i ; sprinkle with roast bread crumbs and 1 the rabl In serving surround of every month the great SUNDAY AMERICAN Make Good Ragouts gard a ragout, or stew, as a very valu- How to N France we re able, estimable and respectable dish in domestic cook- ery. Among English-speaking people I find that a stew is somewhat contemptuously regarded. This point of view, I feel sure, must have arisen Irom the fact that the stew has been too often imperfectly prepared. Perhaps you will like your stew better if you eall it a ‘‘ragout’’ (pronounced ‘‘rah-goo’’). Certainly the change is justifiable, since a certain carelessness appears to be denoted by the word ‘‘stew’’ which is by no means im- plied in the French term “‘ragout.’’ A good mutton ragout-is one of the most harmonious, wholesome and economical combinations of meat and vegetables which our cuisine has any knowledge of. I give here directions for preparing the principal mutton ragouts. Mutton Stew with Rice. Segoe eae Va pee the mutton has been cut in pieces and cooked, add four good tablespoonfuls of chopped onion, season with salt and pepper, let it cook at a slow fire ten to twelve minutes. Then add a dozen small carrots, a bunch of parsley, thyme, COOK BOOK a quart of water, this moment pour boiling the rice is two or three in and let it cook twenty- taking three 3 two pounc some peeled toma- also add eggplant small mild green or red peppers, after five to six minutes with the mutton, K may fiaice it with saffron or curry. la Bourgeoi sé. persons. Choose frying pan, after them brown on and sprinkle them as to brown them uillon, or, if that is ss of white wine. Add nall onions and the : it. then arrange the ttatoes a nions on the middl yf thi lish with the cutlets and pour the in dye Cut the as in the precedimg 1 in four, two carrots pspoonais Let this cook several a quart of desire a if oy Sea okim the ras the wool. iIn* Tn ‘ “MIN te ee. wnatttan nt ld in not countries mutton often holds the taste of efore cooking. BY MONSIEUR A. ESCOFFIER __ 9 SE Mutton Hash a |’Americaine. UT the meat into small cubes. Also cut into pieces of the same shape the same weight of potatoes as of meat. Season the potatoes and toss them in butter. This done, put half their quan- tity into a saucepan with the meat and cover the whole with a few tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and some reduced meat gravy; heat without allowing to boil. Distribute the remainder of the potatoes, which should be crisply fried, over the hash, and sprinkle with a pinch of freshly chopped parsley. In hash the .meat ar allowed to boil or it will become hard. emer? Ordinary Ragout of Mutton. AVING cut the mutton in pieces cook it in a saucepan at a : sharp fire with clarified fat or lard. Season with salt and pepper. | When the pieces of mutton are well browned drain out nearly the fat, Add two. large soupspoonfuls of flour. eck for several minutes and moisten with a full quart of water. Add two sl J tomatoes or two spoonfuls of tomato puree, a bunch of parsley, thyme, a bay leaf and a tiny piece of garlic. Cover the saucepan, cook gently forty or fifty minutes. change the pieces of mutton to another saucepan Jd ‘to fifteen small onions browned in butter and twenty small pot the size of a pigeon’s egg. Then skim the sauce from the saucepan. Strain it over the meat and other ingredients. Cover saucepan and finish cooking. Before serving skim the grease off 1 stew again. : Plain Irish Stew. UT up two pounds of mutton, place the pieces in a saucepan of convenient size. The best meat for this purpose is from the breast, the neck or the shoulder. Cut it in pieces of three to four ounces. Add 2 large glass of water, then put the saucepan on the fire, cdéver it and let the water evaporate completely. Add another glass of water, allow it to evaporate and then salt and pepper to : Next add four large onions dividedinto quarters, a bunch of parsley thyme and bay. Moisten with just sufficient water to cover the meat Cover the saucepan and let it boil for twenty-five to thirty minut Then add to the mutton two pounds of potatoes skinned ‘divided in four. Cover them with hot water. Season them agz you like it highly seasoned. Cover the saucepan and fi the Paaet at herbs berets « ot a ® In this case you mizat also slice up the potato the carrots and turnips to cook fifteen minut Potatoes cooked to pieces spoil the stew. In this methed ne feur thickening sheuld ke ured: 10 THE 1 THANKSGIVING COOK BOOK Recipes hs Pot au Feu, Macaroni and Spaghetti T is the greatest merit of the French cuisine that it enables the housekeeper to make the most wholesome and delightful dishes with the least expenditure of money In the first place, I deal with the ‘‘pot au feu,” “‘the pot on the fire,’’ a soup which is perhaps the most typical and valuable of all French family dishes. ‘When well eooked it is equally delicious and nourishing. After that I take up some simple macaroni preparations. My friend, Madame Tetrazzini, the famous singer, has expressed her pleas sure over many dishes of macaroni, prepared accord- ing to the accompanying recipes. Family ‘‘Pot au Feu.” O make family “pot au feu” you must take beef of good quality and in sufficient quantity. The favorite parts with us are the ribs, the rump and the breast. If the meat is quite fresh all these parts furnish an excellent soup, and\the beef is. excellent to eat afterward. To. make soup for six or seven persons, take four pounds of beef, including bone. The piece of beef should be oblong. in shape and tied up. Place it an earthenware Saucepan (marmite) or one of RRamellie?d metal, In using an sevbhenware Marmit remember that it BY MONSIEUR A. ESCOFFIER ee Le must be well boiled first, as new earthenware gives an unpleasant taste to soup. Add a quart of cold water to every pound of meat and a sixth,of an ounce of coarse salt for every quart of water. Put ‘the saucepan on the fire. Skim at the first boiling, then add halt a glass of fresh water, and skim again. As soon as the bubbling grows very strong put the saucepan at the side of the fire. ,Cover it threequarters of the way with the lid and cook gently for three or four hours. After the first hour of boiling add the following vegetables, which must be very carefully cleaned: Two carrots, two turnips, a piece of celery, two medium sized leeks, several sprigs of chervil, a bay leaf, a mite of garlic, a quarter of a white cabbage, an onion colored brown)in the oven if con- venient and two cloves. The cabbage is optional, When the meat is cooked remove the saucepan from the fire. At the time of serving remove the meat and keep it hot, then remove the vegetables gently so as not to stir up the soup. Select a part of the vegetables and put them in the soup tureen with thin slices of bread, lightly toasted, and a pinch of freshly ground pepper. Arrange the rest of the vegetables around the beef, skim the soup, pass it through a fine strainer and pour it into the soup tureen. Estouffade of Beef, Neapolitan. ‘STOUFFADE is an appetizing puree of beef which may be used in combination with ,various vegetables. Here it is used in combination with macaroni. The following quantities are calculated for eight to tén persons: Take ,a pound of lean beef, cut in small square pieces; two pounds and a quarter of very ripe tomatoes, seeded and chopped up; two large onions chopped up, a'bunch composed of a bay leaf, a few sprigs of thyme, a mite of garlic, the whole well tied together; half a bottle of good white or red wine, with salt and pepper ground in a mill. Put the lean beef in a saucepan in which you have previously heated about three and a half ounces of butter, or four tablespoons- fuls of good olive oil} add the salt and pepper, cover the saucepan and let it stew. Cook it ten to twelve minutes on a fire not too hot, then add the white or red wine, cover until the wine has almost completely boiled down. Cover the saucepan again and let it cook gently until the beef has been reduced to a puree. It requires at ieast five or six hours’ cooking. THE THANKSGIVING COOK BOOK Macaroni a la Napolitaine (Neapolitan Macaroni). WENTY to twenty-five minutes before serving cook in boiling water salted to taste some eeu fan macarori—that is, large vary between twelve and ceording to the ie of the macaroni. It must not be ove a and must be kept rather firm. As soon as it is cooked ¢ a strainer with large holes so th as to run off the water i eciciele ut. the macaroni in the sauce- an, add a little butter, sprinkle the bottom of @ flat dish with c Dp n cheese, cover this Parmesan cheese with a iayer of: the fade of beef already prepared, arrange on top of this a layer of ‘oni, on this another layer of Parmesan cheese, and finally a yer of estouffade until the dish is filled up. Serve at once. Neapolitan Sauce Rapide. EMOVE the little tendons from the ends of a filet of beef, cut the meat in small squares, saute them at a hot fire in the frying pan with very hot butter and season with salt and pepper. Add some hot tomato sauce a la menagerie in advance and several spoon- fuls of meat glazing, then keep hot without boiling. To prepare tomato sauce a la menagerie choose a dozen very ripe tomatoes, remove the skin, divide them in two parts, extract the pips, then chop them in large pieces, put them in ‘the frying pan in which you have previously heated five or six tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil. Salt and pepper them in moderation, add a spoonful of chopped parsley and a mite of garlic; then cover the frying pan and let it cook thirty to forty minutes at a very slow fire:so that the water in the tomatoes boils down very slowly. Although this sauce is very simple in preparation and therebote called “a la menagere’” (the housekeeper), I consider it the best of sauce served hot. It may be served not only with macaroni, but with eggs, fish, butcher’s meat, chicken, rabbit and certain vege- tables, such as string beans cooked in the frying pan. Serve this with macaroni as in the preceding recipe. I find that an allowance of three and a half, ounces of macaroni to each diner “is usually sufficient. Of course, much depends on the composition of the menu or the occupation of the diners. The moderate quan- tity would not be sufficient for a Neapolitan workman. Sauce Rapide.. OU may also prepare an excellent “Sauce Rapide” by making a mixture composed of three parts of good concentrated tomato BY MONSIEUR A. ESCOFFIER 13 puree and one part of good meat glazing. Boil this mixture for several minutes. Serve with macaroni as in preceding recipes. The concentrated tomato puree may be purchased at many stores. It is a favorite preparation in Italy. Fisherman’s Macaroni. HE following method of preparing macaroni has for generations been a favorite with Neapolitan fishermen: Cook the macaroni according to the directions in the preceding recipes. At the same time cook the nécessary quantity of tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped up in a fiying pan in which you have heated some olive oil and two or three whole cloves of garlic. Season with salt,, pepper, parsley and chopped basil (bay leaf may be used instead of this herb). Let it cook twelve to fifteen minutes; theh add some “filets of anchovies cut in pieces. Arrange ‘the macaroni in a dish, powder it heavily with grated Parmesan and pour the sauce over the macaroni. Eggs and Spaghetti. S lgeee spaghettt and cock it with a cupful of grated cheese. When the spaghetti and cheese are cooked add slices of hard-boiled eggs. Serve in a bowl garnished with pieces of soft toast. Among many other excellent dishes made with this paste are fried chicken with spaghetti and tomato jelly and macaroni au gratin in an Edam cheese case. Will Be FREE With all Editions : of Next ae Sunday’s American 14 THE THANKSGIVING COOK BOOK Some New Ways of Preparing Tomatoes BELIEVE that I can do a service to the American people by pointing the way. to a more varied and at- tractive use of vegetables. Americans have an abundance of good, cheap vegetables at their command, and they do not make a sufficient use of them or prepare them in as many attractive ways as would be possible. Of all these vegetables none is susceptible of more varied and appetizing treatment than the tomato. It would be ‘easy to write a volume on the various ways of preparing tomatoes. With a little knowledge it is possible to prepare a great number of very delicate dishes from the tomato. Its moderate price makes it ac- cessible to all purses. From time to time I shall return to this subject, which I. am sure will be of special interest to American reader. Here I give several excellent ways of cooking tomatoes. It may not even be necessary to buy them, for any man with a bit of garden can grow excellent tomatoes in the United States. I’ wish that my American readers could see the use that the poorest French :countrymen make of their vegetable gardens. The peasants of Pro- vence and Southern France, where I was born, are particu- larly skilful in the use of tomatoes. Tomatoes Sautees a la Provencale. UT the tomatoes in half, skin, press and remove the seeds. Then season with salt and pepper. Put them cut side undermost in a frying pan containing very-hot oil. Turn them over when they are half cooked, sprinkle them with 2 little chopped parsley, together with a mite of garlic and some BY MONSI BUR A, bread crumbs. Put them in a moderate oven in order to finish their fr cooking and dish the tomatoes the momen the oven. It should be nt that t cooked slowly in order to I A little anchovy s additional flavor. This dish is particularl; thickly crusted bread. The tomatoes may be stuffed with t terials mentioned. In : i arly identical with “stuffed tomatoes a la bourgeois ich I are drawn from dish should :be 4uce may be the ingredients to give Tomatoes Farcies, Mode Bourg: T)VICK a dozen medium sized tomatoes, cut off place them a frying pan (poele) containing boiling olive oil. they are half cooked { trange them a roasting .dish with the following mixture: teaspoonfuls of chopped onion, add c ro) a 5 piece of 15 minu soaked in bouillon, or simply in \ coffee spoons of anchovy sauce eravy braised and rather When the tomatoes are mixed with grated them gently in o 5 te thm with them with oil, is good Qnartered Tomatoes. : SE medium sized tomatoes, somewhat firm and with very smvoth skins. Peel them and empty them and then fill them either with a fish ptiree cleared with jelly or with a macedoine of vege tables thickened by means of a mayonnaise with jelly. Place on for half an hour and cut the tomatoes into regular quarters. tomatoes may also be cut into four previous to stuffing them, where upon they may, with the help of a piping bag fitted with a groovec pipe, be filled with one of the compound butters. Tomato Salads. FIRST RECIPE.—Surround the peeled tomatoes with a composed of mild green peppers. chopped up, filets of anchovies c in little squares, a little chopped onion, arsley, tarragon and hard- boiled eggs chopped up and seasoned simply without may: i SECOND RECIPE.—Cover your peeled tomatoe i gon chopped up and asparagus tips. The seasoning THIRD RECIPE.—Surround the peeled tomatoes with a mace- doine (hash) of cold cooked carrots, turnips, peas, string beans, asparagus tips, white beans and cauliflower, = om wm ® sy) y. e) a 2 if Oo eh n 3) om THE WORLD'S G USE AND } Peter Coope TRY@ DAINTY GELATINE RECIPES—C@ ; BY A. ESCOFFIER, CHEF OF THE RITZ-CARL COFFEE JELLY—One cupful of strong coffee. LEMON JELL\ four cupfuls of water, three heaping tablespoon- {| box of Peter Co fuls of Peter Cooper’s Gelatine. six tablespoontfuis | tine in’ one pint of sugar. Bring the water and sugar to the boii- | two minutes: ad ing point, then stir in the gelatine, and, when dis- | boiling water, 1% solved, add c@gffee. Pour into a wet ring mold. | and stir until di ‘ Turn out when firm and serve with sweetened and | juice of three le whipped cream in the centre. Decorate with | through. jelly Sweet wafers. moulds. COLD EGGS A LA RICHE—Boil the eges five minutes; remove shells without breaking the eggs; when cold dress on fresh artichokes bottom, cover with mayonnaise sauce in which a little melted Petem Cooper’s Gelatine has been added: Julienne of celery and Truffle mixed with mayonnaise around the edge. Serve with chopped jeilyy on the dish. COFFEE CHARLOTTE RUSSE—Pour a Iittle) ar ah ca Riteact it to become frm. Line the mold with sweet waters: Cooper’s Gelatine in one cupful of Milk. Mix three eg cupful. of strong coffee, then add to the gelatine® from the fire, and, when cool, add the vanilla extragt prepared mold. Turn out when set. +] PETER COOPER’S GELATINE—E le Russe &c. LEW yore > Peter Cooper’s Gelatint ECOMMEND atine 9 rs THESE ILED FOR AMERICAN READERS FON, AND A. SHERON, OF THE ANSONIA CHOCOLATE AND BANANA BLANC-MANGE— is of sweet chocolate, and one and a half of Peter Cooper’s Gelatine, two cupfuls and a halt of milk, four tablespoonfuls of sugar and yolks of two eggs. Mix gelatine with milk and dissolve over fire, then | add sugar. Remove from fire and stir in yolks of eggs | and chocolate, Stir over fire a few minutes, then pout into wet mold. Turn out when set. Fill centre with | sliced bananas. Decorate with blanched almonds, macé&- - roons and sliced bananas, fANICLA BAVA —Soak one iper’s’ Gela- cold ‘water, | two pints cups sugar, | solved, add | ons, strain | bag into Four tablespoontfu VANILLA BAVAROIS—Four ounces powdered sugar, five yolks over one pit of boiling milk, p stirring on fire until near Gelatine dissolved in cup bf eges, beat well together, pour favored with one vanilla ‘bean. Kee boiling; add one-half box Peter Cooper’s of hot water and one pint of whipped cream. Put in a mold slightly foiled with almond oil and then place on ice until ready to serve. Bavarois can be made with many kinds of flavors—chocolate, coffees, strawberry? etc. ; toffee jelly into the bottom of a wet mold and allow Dissolve two heaping tablespoonfuls of Peter Ps with four tablespoonfuls of sugar and add half a = E mid stir till it thickens; it must not boil. Remove gh OORy, i a < ar es a AR Mand two cupfuls of whipped cream. Pour into the CLARIFIED GELATIN ares he World’s Standard Since 1822 |) laste 111 Broadway, N. Y. NKSGII1 ING COOK BOOK pepper, oil and vinegar should be thickened slightly with mayo naise. To this macedoine you may add either chopped cold lobste salmon, sole, chicken or boiled beef. FOURTH RECIPE.—Accompany the tomatoes with a salad of cucumbers cut in small cubes, from which the water has been par- tially extracted .by salting them slightly; filets of anchovies cut in Squares, a little chopped onion, parsley, chervil, tarragon and hard- boiled egg. This should be seasoned simply without mayonnaise. FIFTH RECIPE.—Serve the tomatoes with a salad made of rice ooked in water and well drained, with green or red peppers sliced Ae Season simply without mayonnaise. SIXTH RECIPE.—Use the rice as in the last recipe and add white chicken meat cut in dice or some cold fish, such as lobster, sole or salmon. The rice is much appreciated as a salad in hot weather. Tomatoes a l’Americaine. ELECT some firm, medium sized tomatoes and cut them into thin slices. Put them into a dish with salt, pepper, oil and a few drops of vinegar and leave them to marinade for twenty min- utes. Then arrange them on a hors d’oeuvre dish, garnishing the border’ with fine rings of onion. Tomatoes a iz Monegasque. ELECT some tomatoes about the size of walnuts and cut a slice from each in the region of the stalk. Squeeze out all the water and seeds and marinade them, inside, for twenty minutes, Prepare a mince of tunny with oil and add ‘thereto, per two ounces of the fish, half a tablespoonful of finely chopped onion, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, chervil and tarragon and a small hard-boiled egg, also chopped. Thicken the whole with a tablespoonful of thick mayonnaise; put it into a bag fitted with a smooth, medium sized pipe and garnish the tomatoes with the preparation, using enough of the latter to form a kind of dome upon each tomato. Mock Tomatoes. S ELECT some tomatoes about tthe size of a walnut and peel them carefully. Press them in a piece of lihen and set them to mari- nade for half an hour in oil and vinegar. Then stick a small piece of parsley salt into each tomato, in imitation of the stalk, and sur- round it with little leaves made from green butter by means of a small piping bag. Tunny with Tomatoes. Tt AY alternate slices of tunny and tomato upon a hors d’oeuvre dish and between each slice lay a thin round of onion. Garnish the edge of the dish with a border composed of sliced cooked cold potate. and sprinkle the whole with an ordinary. salad seasoning. BY MONSIEUR A. ESCOFFIER Crawfish Recipes ———eee NE of the favorite culinary delicacies of France is the ecrevisse or crawfish, It is prepared in many ways, but its highest mission is to furnish the basis of that delicious soup, ‘bisque of ecrevisses,’’ or ‘hisque of crawfish.” It is highly probable that this dish, whether called ‘“eerevisse’’ or ‘‘crawfish,’’ 1s unfamiliar to many of my American readers. I feel I shall be doing them a service by familiarizing them with this.subject. No ‘one tan dis- cuss French cookery at length without referring to ‘‘ecre- visses’’ from time to time. The ecrevisse or French crawfish is a small crustacean, in form like a lobster, and taking a bright red color when cooked like its larger cousin. I am informed that the crawfish is abundant along the Atlantic coast of. the United States. It is possible that as the American craw- fish is so much less used than the French, it is inferior to the French in flavor, but Iam by no means certain of that. Probably, if the virtues of bisque of crawfish were thoroughly understood, it would become as popular in America as in France. I will first give a recipe for the most delightful kind of bisque of crawfish adapted to the resources of private households. I must warn my readers however, that this is a difficult dish to ‘execute in an ordinary kitchen, and 1 can hardly recommend anybody who is not an expert cook to try it, unless she is prepared to run the risk of wasting considerable valuable material. However, many of my readers must be familiar with the preparation of bisque of lobster, and they are in some degree initiated into the mysteries of this soup. THE THANKSGIVING COOK BOOK Bisque of Crawfish. AKE twenty to twenty-five moderate sized crawfish, an onion of about two ounces, a carrot of the same weight, a pinch of thyme, a little leaf of bay, some stalks of parsley, a small glass of cognac and a large glass of white wine. Cut the onion and tthe carrot in little squares, brown them slightly in butter in a saucepan (casserole). Add the thyme, bay, parsley, a third of an ounce of salt, a pinch of pepper ground in the mill and a tiny pinch of red pepper. Saute the crawfish for several minutes. As soon as they are red moisten them with cognac and white wine. Cover the saucepan, cook at a sharp fire for ten minutes. Remove the crawfish from the saucepan. Shell the tails and put the meat of the tails in a little © covered saucepan. Pound in the mortar or chop in the meat machine the meat of the crawfish. As soon as they have been reduced to a paste mix in about three anf a half ounces of fresh butter. Pound again for several minutes, or pass through the machine, in order to mix the butter well in. Add tto the cooking liquid of the crawfish about six pints of good white bouillon. Boil it for several minutes. Combine this liquid with four soupspoonfuls of cream of rice diluted with cold bouillon. Let it cook gently eight to ten minutes. Add the crawfish reduced to a paste, let them boil a few minutes at the side of the fire. Pass this mass with pressure through a strainer into a saucepan; keep it warm. At the moment of serving season the soup according to taste and finish it with about two ounces of fine butter. Pass the soup again through the strainer, add the crawfish tails which have been kept in reserve and serve boiling hot. I have omitted here the addition of quenelles—little forcemeat balls —and dice made from crawfsh stuffing, which are generally added in great kitchens, but which are certainly not essential to the flavor of the dish. Tihhese garnishings only complicate the preparation of the dish in a simple household. Bisque of Crawfish with Bread. f‘XUT- some slices of white bread, crust included, weighing about eight ounces. Place it in a saucepan with half a pint of white bouillon, or, if it is inconvenient to provide this, simply hot water and a little salt. Boil it fifteen minutes to obtain a panada (bread paste). At this moment add the cooking liquor of the crawfish and the crawfish reduced to a paste. Heat them and pass them through the strainer, as in the preceding recipe. Finish in the same way. This soup may be thickened with a yolk of egg and cream. Bisque of Shrimp or Lobster. [* any of the preceding recipes the crawfish may be replaced by shrimp or lobster. If lobster is used cut the meat into small gduares and cook in the same manner as the crawfish. BY MONSIEUR A. ESCOFFIER A Dinner That Was Served Me in Perigord bs | HE French cuisine reaches, a perhaps, its highest and most interesting development in Peri- gueux, the capital of the ancient Gene nencenrenetne ene arensocnobhnaisies Province of Perigord. In the vicinity the famous red partridges are found in abundance, while the luscious truffle atiine perfection on the soil of Perigord. The city of Perigueux is noted throughout France for its delicious ‘‘terrines’ and. ‘“nates’’ of red partridge, with ducks’ livers and truffles. Well do I reeall a visit to a hospitable Perigueux home on a crisp day in early December, when the red partridges have the finest flavor and the truffles begin to perfume the atmosphere. The sharpness of the air lent the appe- tite that is desirable when one faces the rich and gener- ous fare of Perigord. The midday repast to which I was entertained was remarkable as an example of the best French household cooking, and I feel sure that it will in- terest my American readers as a possible menu for > Thanksgiving Day. After a number of appetizing hors d’oeuvres, our host- a dish of sweet- 99 (a4 ess served a fine omelet ‘‘a la paysanne, breads beautifully browned, accompanied by spinach cooked with butter, a saddle of lamb on the spit, accom- panied by cepes ‘‘a la. Perigourdine,’’ a divine terrine of red partridges, a salad of celery ‘‘aux fines herbes,’’ a pie of carameled appre very carefully prepared, various fruits and cheeses, and e¢ offee, , 22 THE THANKSGIVING COOK BOOK Omelet a la Paysanne. ae HE name of this dish, “a la paysanne” (“in the countrywoman’s ° style’), suggests at once that it is a dish suited to modest households. The following are the quantities of materials required for six persons: ‘Twelve fresh eggs, three and a half ounces of lean bacon cut in dice, about five ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped i f potatoes cut in dice, salt and pepper. ing pan with an ounce and a half of butter fire not very hot. As soon as the bacon begins to fry and put on add the potatoes cut in dice and let them cook at a slow fire. When the potatoes are cooked add the chives or parsley. Pp p J While waiting for this you must break the eggs, to which you add the salt and pepper necessary, taking into consideration the salt in the bacon. The eggs must be thoroughly beaten up to make a per- fectly uniform liquid of them. Then add the bacon and potatoes. If you have only one frying pan at your disposal, it will be ad- visable to wipe it with a clean cloth in order that the omelet may not i the bottom. Then put the frying pan back on a sharp fire, keeping your three and a half ounces of butter-in reserve. As soon as the | gins to take a light brown color, pour the eggs into the boiling | Shake the frying pan and stir the eggs with a fork. Then turn over the omelet as you would a pancake. A few onds will suffice to finish cooking the omelet. Slip it immediately on a dish and serve att once. In Summer the French peasants carry these omelets with them oO prepared in advance and eat‘them cold. Eggs are an even more valuable resource in housekeeping than most people realize. In spite of their present high price one can always use them with bacon and vegetables to, prepare nourishing, appetizing and really economical dishes. ‘I shall return to this important subject in another article. Veal Sweetbread with Spinach. i HE veal sweetbreads must be chosen white and without any speck p | or, in any case, change the water several times. Place the sweetbreads in a rather large saucepan and cover them Put the saucepan on the fire and withdraw it at the 1 BY MONSIEUR A. ESCOFFIER 23 the sinews, and then cover them with a cloth. Place over them a dish and then a small board, thus putting a slight pressure upon them. After half an hour withdraw them and stick small pieces of bacon fat into them (that is, lard them). Put them in a saucepan, the bottom of which is covered with bacon morsels, little onions and chopped carrots. Braise them with slight moistening, and add a faggot of parsley, thyme and a bay leaf well tied together. Sprinkle them with melted butter, salt them lightly, moisten them with a quart of bouillon (clear soup), then let this liquid boil down completely. Moisten them again with the same quantity of bouillon, boil it down again, moisten once more, and finish cooking in the oven at a gentle fire, sprinkling them with their gravy. To obtain a thorough cooking thirty to thirty-five minutes is sufficient. Serve them with their gtavy passed through a fine . Strainer. Serve at the same time the spinach. Spinach Cooked in Butter, Go the spinach leaves in a pan with salted water. Wash them frequently with water to remove the sand which they may contain completely. Drain them, press out the moisture and chop them up very fine. Heat some butter in a saucepan, add the chopped spinach, stir them up with a long wooden spoon, adding a little butter. This will work out the moisture. Season them to taste with salt and a little scraped nutmeg. Finish by adding an ounce and a half of fine butter. Spinach “Au Naturel.” AVING cooked the spinach in salt water as before, wash and drain the leaves carefully, then remove all water and give them a few strokes with the knife without chopping them up. Put them into a frying pan in which you have heated some butter; salt to taste and serve very hot. : This method of preparing spinach is very much appreciated in Italy, where they add filets of anchovies to it. To Cook Young Spinach. Ob tien very young spinach, cook it as in the other recipes in salt water. Drain it on a white cloth and arrange it in a vegetable dish with little rounds of good butter, slightly salted. Spinach Without Water. HE following method is very little known and has the advantages * of preserving all the nutriment in the spinach and avoiding the use of boiling water: HOR. Having washed and drained the spinach very thoroughly, cut it up in coarse pieces and put it in a saucepan in which you have heated three and a half ounces of butter to every pound of spinach. Add salt, grated nutmeg and cook sharply. ING | COOK BOOK Saddle of Lamb. Cc the saddle In the pan in whi of lamb on a spit b a wood fire, if possible. the dripping falls place a clove of garlic to perfume the dripping, w which you moisten the roast. Cepes a la Perigourdine. epes, clean them well and 7NHOOSE \4 remove some olive oil in a turning them on nd drain them on a 7 espoonfuls of olive f onion choppe le. s soon as the onion brown color p stalks of the f 1utes, them with garlic and a pinch of chopped frying pan, heat them well and Sprinkle the surface with one or and cook Season th has taken a cepes, let 3 mushroom, may be purchased preserved. is often French cookery. in English, but this is a ra several kinds. One is made with a white sauce. It u thinned with a little Another “liaison” is a mixture such as bouillon, gravy or whi must be fairly liquid, is used to tl the tner ox 30 THE THANKSGIVING COOK BOOK Dainty Dessert Recipes HE sweet course cannot make an otherwise poor dinner good, but it can. seriously mar the delight of an otherwise perfect meal. From the almost endless array of desserts which my years of experience have taught me to make, I have selected the following, which, I feel sure, will be found pleasing to the appe- tites of my American friends: Cherries Adelina Patti. ADAME PATTI, whom I have the honor of knowing, has a marked sympathy for vanilla ice cream with cherries preserved in very fine brandy. I asked her recently for permission to give the public the benefit of this taste by introducing ‘‘Cherries Adelina Patti,” The secret of this recipe, which is in reality very simple, lies in securing the very finest vanilla ice cream. This must be prepared in the highest style of the art. It must be smooth, fine and creamy, and especially there must be no economy of eggs and fresh cream. Serve the ice cream in attractive little glasses and on this founda- tion place fine cherries with brandy or fine champagne. Sour Cream Pie. EAT two eggs thoroughly, then beat in one cup of sugar. Add one cup of sour cream, one-half a cup of raisins and cinnamon and nutmeg to taste. Bake in two crusts. This makes a pie con- sidered by many as good as the best mince pic. Bisque Ice Cream. ILUTE three cans of evaporated milk with an equal quantity of water, scalded and cooled; add one cup sugar and stir occa- sionally until dissolved. Melt one-third of a cupful of sugar in a flat-bottomed pan to a caramel, stirring it meanwhile, and add one- quarter of a cupful of hot water. When-the caramel is dissolved, BY MONSIEUR A. ESCOFFIER pour into the milk and to this mixture add one and one-half cupfuls hickorynut meats chopped fine. Pack in the freezer as usual and freeze, not turning very fast at first, but more rapidly after ten minutes. Chocolate Frappe. ee one quart of milk in a double boiler. Then put four ounces of unsweetened chocolate, cut up in small pieces, three table- spoonfuls of hot water and one cup of sugar, into a granite ware pan, and stir over a hot fire until glossy. Stir this mixture into the hot milk. Beat well with a whisk. Add one teaspoonful of vanilla. Chill the mixture, freeze it soft and serve immediately in long glasses with whipped cream flavored with vanilla. Peach Sherbet. ELT three cupfuls of sugar in one cupful of hot cream. Allow it to cool and then add three cupfuls of milk and one-half of lemon juice. When the mixture is partly frozen add one pint of mashed peaches, and let the sherbet ripen for several hours. Strawberry milk sherbet may be made inthe same way. Chocolate Parfait. ELT two ounces of unsweetened chocolate in half a cupful of water, add one cupful of sugar and boil until thick. Pour the mixture over the yolks of four eggs. Place in a double boiler, cook and stir constantly, until a spoon placed in the mixture is caked. Stand in a basin of water and beat frequently until cold. Add one pint of thick whipped cream and flavor with one teaspoonful of vanilla. Serve in glasses and place on ‘top of each one tablespoonful of whipped cream flavored with a little vanilla. Frozen Egg Nog. EAT until they are light the yolks of five eggs, and then gradually beat in one cupful of sugar. Add a quart of milk and a 'table- spoonful of vanilla, and placing the mixture in a freezer, freeze to a very soft mush. Then beat a cupful of heavy cream until it is firm, and fold it into the beaten whites of five eggs. Add to the mixture in ‘the freezer and freeze until stiff. A quarter of a cupful of sherry may be added in place of vanilla if desired. Serve in tall glasses with a little nutmeg sprinkled over. Syrian Parfait. OUR a pint of scalded cream over a quarter of a pound of freshly roasted coffee and let it stand for half an hour. Cream the yolks of six eggs with a quarter of a pound of sugar. When well beaten; add the coffee mixture and stir over boiling water until the inixture equals the consistency of thick cream. Strain, add: one-half pint of cream and two teaspoonfuls of vanilla. Beat over ice, pack into a mould and freeze. 32 THE THANKSGIVING COOK BOOK Paradise Pudding. OVER two tablespoonfuls of gelatine with one cupful of cold milk and let soak a few minutes. Stand it over the tea kettle until the gelatine is thoroughly dissolved. Whip one-half pint’ of cream, add to it half a cupful of powdered sugar, one cupful of chopped dates and one teaspoonful of vanilla. Add the gelatine, stir until it thickens and turn out to cool. Maraschino cherries may be used as a garnish or chopped pistachio nuts may be sprinkled thickly over, Bavarian Sponge: D ISSOLVE one-half box gelatine in one cup of boiling water and add to it' one pint warm milk, two teaspoons sugar and yolks of four eggs beaten stiff; allow to come to a boil at once. Set aside to cool and then add one teaspoonful of vanilla and one pint of whipped cream. Mock Ice. “y UB three tablespoons of preserves (any kind) through a sieve, with enough cream to fill a quart mould. Dissolve three tea- spoonfuls. of gelatine in one cup of boiling water; when almost cold mix with. the cream. Put into mould and let cool until next day. Lemon Pudding. OAK in four tablespoonfuls of water two tablespoons of gela- tine; then add a pint of boiling water, one cup sugar and the juice of two lemons. Strain and set aside to cool. When cold stir in the whites of three eggs, thoroughly beaten. Serve with sweet- ened cream. Prune Jelly. FTER washing thoroughly one-half pound of good prunes, put them into a small basin with a half cupful of water, put on the cover ald steam. When they are soft, remove the stones and place the prunes in wet moulds. Add to one heaping tablespoontul of powdered gelatine in a saucepan one cup of boiling water and one cup of fruit juice, the strained juice of two oranges and one table- spoonful of lemon juice. Stir over the fire until the sugar is dis- solved and then strain over the prunes. Serve with whipped cream. Fruit Tapioca. S OAK two tablespoonfuls of tapioca in half a cupful of cold water for two hours. Scald two cupfuls of milk, add the tapioca and cook until clear. ‘Then add the yolks of three eggs, beaten light, with one-half cupful of sugar and, one heaping tablespoonful of powdered gelatine dissolved in “one-half cupful of boiling water. Cook five minutes, remove from stove and add one cupful of peaches, a pinch cf salt and one teaspoonful of vanilla extract. After mixing well cool and serve in dainty glasses. 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