4 wh ION DILLE A) eye bE RICHLY TONED GOLD AND BLUE RUG [NUMBER 370] CATALOGUE OF OLD CHINESE RUGS OLD MANDARIN COATS FROM THE COLLECTION OF ARTHUR URBANE DILLEY OF NEW YORK Tue Wexiit-Known Ruc Auruority TO BE SOLD FRIDAY AFTERNOON, FRIDAY EVENING AND SATURDAY AFTERNOON December Ist and 2nd, 1916 at 2:30 and 8:15 o'clock On Public Exhibition from Monday, November 27th Including Thanksgiving Day THE ANDERSON GALLERIES Mapison AVvENuE AT Fortietu STREET New York CONDITIONS OF SALE 1. All bids to be PER Lor as numbered in the Catalogue. 2. The highest bidder to be the buyer; in all cases of disputed bids the lot shall be resold, but the Auctioneer will use his judgment as to the good faith of all claims and his decision shall be final. He also reserves the right to reject any fractional or nominal bid which in his judgment may delay or injuriously affect the sale. 3. Buyers to give their names and addresses and to make such cash payments on account as may be required, in default of which the lots purchased to be resold immediately. 4. 'The lots to be taken away at the buyer’s expense and risk with- in twenty-four hours from the conclusion of the sale, and the re- mainder of the purchase money to be absolutely paid on or before delivery, in default of which The Anderson Galleries, Incorporated, will not be responsible if the lot or lots be lost, stolen, damaged, or destroyed, but they will be left at the sole risk of the purchaser, and subject to storage charges. 5. To prevent inaccuracy in delivery, and inconvenience in the settlement of purchases, no lot will be delivered during the sale. G. All lots will be exposed for public exhibition in The Anderson Galleries before the date of sale, for examination by intending pur- chasers, and The Anderson Galleries, Incorporated, will not be re- sponsible for the correctness of the description, authenticity, genu- ineness, or for any defect or fault in or concerning any lot, and makes no warranty whatever, but will sell each lot exactly as it is, WITHOUT RECOURSE. But upon receiving before the date of sale, ex- pert opinion in writing that any lot is not as represented. The An- derson Galleries, Incorporated, will use every effort to furnish proof to the contrary, and in default of such proof the lot will be sold sub- ject to the declaration of the aforesaid expert, being liable to the owner or owners thereof for damage or injury occasioned by such declaration. 7. Terms CasH. Upon failure to comply with the above condi- tions any sum deposited as part payment shall be forfeited, and all such lots as remain uncleared after twenty-four hours from the con- clusion of the sale, will be resold by either private or public sale at such time as The Anderson Galleries, Incorporated, shall determine, without further notice, and if any deficiency arises from such re- gale it shall be made good by the defaulter at this sale together with all the expenses incurred thereby. This condition shall be without prejudice to the right of The Anderson Galleries, Incorporated, to enforce the contract with the buyer, without such re-sale. 8. Bios. We make no charge for executing orders for our cus- tomers and use all bids competitively, buying at the lowest price per- mitted by other bids. 9. The Anderson Galleries, Incorporated, will afford every facility for the employment of carriers and packers by the purchasers, but will not be responsible for any damage arising from the acts of such carriers and packers. Priced Copy of this Catalogue may be secured for $1.50. The Anderson Galleries INCORPORATED MapIson AVENUE AT FORTIETH STREET, NEw YORK. TELEPHONE, Murray HIL1, 7680 SALES CONDUCTED BY MR. FERDERICK A. CHAPMAN. INTRODUCTION A beautiful Collection of Old Chinese Rugs and Old Man- darin Coats are here catalogued and offered at unrestricted public sale. They are from the collection of Mr. Arthur Urbane Dilley, a well-know New York patents on Chinese rugs and a lover of Chinese art. There are in all one hundred and fifty fine old rugs and more than three hundred silk robes, or, as they are popularly styled, Mandarin coats. Both rugs and robes cover a wide range of design and color. In many cases age has softened the bril- liant tones and in some instances tarnished the lustre of the handi- work. As a rule, however, the evidences of past days have brought no injury but rather a mellowness and blending of the brilliant hues that the Chinese have used with daring and which other people have never used so skillfully. The age represented in these rugs and coats extends back to the beginning of the Manchus, the dynasty that has recently come to an end, covering a period of three hundred years. THE RUGS The best of antique Chinese rugs are attributed to three periods of Chinese history—the Ming, the Kang Hsi, and the Chien Lung periods. ‘The Ming Dynasty came to an end in 1644, when China was conquered by the northern Manchus. Few rugs of this re- mote period are still to be found. Ming weaving is easily recog- ‘nized, being plain geometry, so to speak, simple in color and regular in design, and generally coarse in texture. Kang Hsi rugs are elaborate geometry in carefully woven, close texture. The weavers of no other period selected their material, maintained the precision of their designs, and dyed their fine wools so well. A distinctive feature in Kang Hsi and Ming rugs is the band of solid brown, sometimes broad, sometimes narrow, form- * ing the outer border. The outer border of rugs woven in the Chien Lung and later periods is of deep blue. Chien Lung rugs are floral in design, usually with medal- lions, and brilliant in color. No higher development in the weaver’s art was achieved after the Chien Lung Period. The dates of the reigns are as follows: Kang vHsi s. i2 o a keene dle be 1661-1723 Yung ‘Cheng -. cress hace eee 1723-1736 Chien’ Lane ase eee 1736-1796 Chia, Chine Sv 7itac ecm aee eee oonee 1796-1821 Tao ‘Kwatie vis oe% bee oeeeeeer eee 1821-1851 Hsien Feng cic .c tetas ee eee 1851-1862 Tune Chih. au ieee seein tee 1862-1875 Kuang Hew) 8 ee 1875-1909 Shin’ Dune sa os ee oes poe eee 1909-1912 Among the rugs there are large ceremonial squares used on féte occasions, such as weddings, and the birthdays of the head of the family; there are rugs that were woven for palaces; there are kong (the Chinese divan) coverings, traveller’s rugs, saddle cloths and temple chair seats. Most of the rugs are from China proper, but one or two are from the western Mohammedan and Llama provinces, showing, in several ways, variations from Chi- nese ideas. Symbolism is replete. The eight emblems of Buddhism are constantly found, likewise the four of the scholar, the “Nine Precious Things,” and the “Hundred Antiques.” Flowers, which all Chinese love; butterflies, which have the significance of cupid; bats and other omens of good fortune or longevity appear on al- most every rug and coat. These are but a few of the symbols in this crowded picture language. | THE COATS During the reign of the Manchus perhaps no court in the world was more brilliant in color than that of Peking. Princes and Mandarins in their dragon robes of gold embroidery on deep shades of blue; Princesses with the Phenix, the emblem of the Empress; lesser ladies with brilliantly colored coats of floral and butterfly designs, mingled in the great court yards of the Forbidden City. An indication of such a scene is given in the present display of coats which have actually played their part in the functions of the Manchu Court. 4 7 pry ena] eh 4 ay “ft ‘ Y ti a . i ih Sara : a oy weedy itunt os Lipawhe ee) ihe 7 \w ‘ * ' : t bb d ie : ae te my ~ Pe Yt 1 i : 2 VENER OEM TTS. Saeed ' f 4 ' whet . } 7 / * ap) pill +! kee iit * nee . ; ey, AEN gh % we {ye ; . eae Stier So ike ed Gan Uae Tray Wie eget tts Ca f i ie we 7 sd + ie i Pa L oe 244 =~, | fe COLLECTION OF ARTHUR URBANE DILLEY FIRST SESSION Friday Afternoon, December 1, 1916, at 2:30 o’clock Lots 1 to 160 MANDARIN COATS LADY’S SUMMER COAT IN DEEP BROWN With floral medallions in green, blue and pink all work- ed in the closely embroidered Peking stitch; white sleeves. Unlined. BRILLIANT RED COAT Embroidered with gold thread with dragon medallions and numerous children at play. Green silk lining. LADY’S COAT IN DEEP BLUE Covered with brilliant sprays of flowers and elaborate butterflies in many colors. Without other trimmings. Lined with light blue. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. DEEP BLUE COAT With light blue and white embroidered fruits, flowers and butterflies. A beautiful arrangement of one of the Chinese favorite combinations of colors. Accredited to the Tao Kuang Period. 7 5 ROBE IN BROWN Very richly embroidered in real gold thread and many colors of silk, all toned with age and achieving a brilliant, though subdued affect. The sleeves are in the shape of a horse’s hoof, the recognized pattern in a Mandarin robe. As indicated both by size and cut this robe was worn by a Mandarin and not by the wife of such an official. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. 6 LADY’S BEAUTIFUL COAT In deep blue, with scenes of birds and deer forming medallions and fringing the lower border; sprays of flowers and butterflies are deftly scattered among these medallion scenes. The combination of colors is deli- cate and exquisite. : 7 ROBE OF GOOD FORTUNE In deep brown with the Shou character entirely cover- ing it, woven in gold thread. Sleeves of light blue with embroidery of butterflies and floral designs. The Lon- gevity character worked in blue upon a band_ borders the neck and surrounds the sleeves. 8 LADY’S COAT OF MIDNIGHT BLUE With flowers and butterflies in pleasing shades of minor colors. Beautifully toned with age. Simple as Chinese coats go but delightful in color. Accredited to the Chia Ching Period. 9 LONG WHITE COAT Covered with white sprays of beautifully embroidered flowers and butterflies. Sleeves, collar and skirt bor- dered with a band of black sustaining blue embroidery. Modern. 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 AN UNUSUAL COAT Old brown brocade, the medallions and flowers and the scene which borders the base considerably subdued by age. A pale blue lining sets off the outer color. Ac- credited to the Chia Ching Period. LONG ROBE IN GREEN KUSSU. The floral sprays and butterflies which cover the entire field of the coat are done with attractive regularity. Some of the shades are acquired by painting. Trim- mings of blue likewise in kussu and a yellow lining lend rich contrast to the combination. “RED KUSSU COAT Similar description to the foregoing. MAN’S COAT IN DEEP CRIMSON With dragon designs, emblems of Good Fortune and waves of Eternity forming the decorations which are in gold-hued thread. Long hoof-like sleeves of the Mandarin design. MAN’S COAT IN AN UNUSUAL BLUE Description the same as the foregoing. MANDARIN’S BLUE ROBE Dragon and other symbolical trimmings in gold thread tarnished with age. A summer coat of transparent texture. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. LONG PLAIN COAT IN ALICE BLUE Trimmings on sleeves and collar of black embroidered bands. A summer coat unlined. 9 17 LONG GREEN COAT Plain except with embroidered sleeves in several colors. Likewise a summer coat of transparent texture. 18 BROWN ROBE Made particularly attractive by a green lining and green cuffs upon which are worked, in the fine Pekin stitch, delicate little Chinese scenes. 19 LONG GREEN BROCADED ROBE With white cuffs and a black collar and border trim- mings. Lining of blue. A particularly pleasing shade of green with a subdued dragon and Buddhistic sym- bols profusely scattered through the brocade. 20 MAUVE AND GOLD COAT (See Illustration) A lady’s coat in delicate color enriched by a carefully worked all over pattern of grapevines amidst which fantastic butterflies drawn with Chinese extravagance are placed at irregular intervals. The coat is bordered and trimmed with a black band, on which a blue and white floral design is worked out in Pekin stitch. Lined with blue. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. 21 DELICATE PINK COAT _ With brocaded medallion scenes. Made rich by a con- trasting border of black embroidered in light blue. 22 LONG DELICATE GREEN COAT Covered with embroidery, the principal portions of which are in the closely woven Pekin stitch. A com- bination of many colors. Blue lining. 10 23 24, 25 26 27 28 MANDARIN’S SUMMER ROBE Rich red, with dragon medallions and border with waves of Eternity. Black cuffs and collar, dragons worked in gold thread, bats and the Swastika, emblem for Good Fortune. Lining of Irish green. MAUVE COAT With no embroidery upon the field but highly deco- rated collar, sleeves, and border. Domestic scenes are worked upon these trimmings. DEEP PEACOCK COAT With contrasting embroidery in white and pale blue. A lining of white. The decorations are of butterflies and flowers of the Four Seasons. BRILLIANT BLUE COAT Lined with rich orange. Flowers and Good Luck char- acters in delicate colors are scattered profusely over the field. MIDNIGHT BLUE COAT Covered in the conventional manner with brilliant sprays of flowers. The border is edged with Waves of Eternity; cuffs richly embroidered with butterflies and flowers on a paler blue. A slate blue lining. BRILLIANT RED COAT Decorated with many colors of embroidered flowers and butterflies. Broad white cuffs likewise embroidered. Black trimmings set off and contrast the brilliant hues. Accredited to the Chia Ching Period. 11 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 LADY’S RED COAT Brilliantly ornamented with embroidery of many col- ors. Rich trimmings along the border and sleeves. Brilliant blue watered silk lining. BLUE AND GOLD MANDARIN ROBE Of the conventional brilliant combination of these two effects. The gold thread on the faded blue creates a particularly attractive effect. Long sleeves of black | with the horse’s-hoof design slightly ornamented with other colors. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. BOY’S MANDARIN ROBE Cut in the skirted style of a military officer. Deco- rated with dragons woven in gold thread, and other symbols in blue, white and red. A brown coat lined with pale blue. Probably worn by the son of an important Mandarin or Prince. LLAMA PRIEST’S ROBE In red with broad blue borders and sleeves. Dragon designs cover the entire coat, worked out in gold threads interspersed with lotus blossoms, the sym- bols of Buddhism. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. LLAMA PRIEST’S ROBE Same description as the foregoing. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. BOY’S JACKET IN FADED RED Dragon designs. SKIRT IN GREEN With brilliant panelled trimmings in several contrasting colors. 12 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 BROCADED SKIRT IN RED With dragon and Pheenix decoration along the border, emblems of the Son of Heaven and the Empress. PALE GREEN SKIRT With various Buddhist emblems and bats, symbolizing Good Fortune and the Waves of Eternity, forming the beautifully embroidered border decorations. SUMMER SKIRT IN PALE GREEN With floral border and panel decorations. ORANGE SKIRT With many colored panel and border decorations. SKIRT IN SALMON PINK With blue and white decorations. MIDNIGHT BLUE COAT Brilliantly ornamented with flowers and butterflies in many colors, and trimmings in white, likewise bril- liantly embroidered. Lining of pale blue. Accredited to the Chia Ching Period. | CORAL COLORED COAT Covered with embroidery, some of it in the fine Pekin stitch. A square on the front and back of the coat contains the Phoenix, emblem of the Empress, rising from the waves, with other emblems. Accredited to the Tao Kuang Period. DEEP BLUE COAT With brilliant contrasting decorations of flowers with squares containing Phenix on front and back and a scene worked along the lower border. 13 4:4 45 4:6 AT 48 49 SLEEVELESS RED JACKET Richly brocaded with squares containing the Phoenix in front and back. Likewise the dragon, the emblem of the Emperor, the Shou character and the bat, symbols of Good Fortune. PLAIN GREEN COAT Covered with delicate embroidery in various hues. White cuffs likewise embroidered. A long coat lined with pale blue silk. DELICATE YELLOW COAT Embroidered in blue and white with butterflies and flowers and tiny medallions. Bordered with white stripes upon which little scenes are embroidered, and trimmed with black, which lends a contrast to an other- wise delicate coat. CORAL COLORED COAT With rich decorations in several shades of blue and white. Vases of flowers form the principal feature of the designs. Little scenes daintly embroidered on the white cuffs. Lining of old green silk. VERY DEEP BLUE COAT With pink, white and pale blue ornamentations. The principal figures of the embroidery are in the Pekin stitch, commonly known as the Seed stitch. Old silk lining of pale blue. OFFICER’S MILITARY ROBE Of the elaborate design worn at court. A skirted coat decorated with dragons in gold thread, and symbols of Buddhism floating among the clouds in several colors. Deep brown lined with pale blue. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. . 14 . 50 BLACK COAT With gold and blue decorations. Large pots of flowers being the principal feature. Sleeve and border trim- mings in blue and white profusely embroidered. 51 LONG CORAL COAT With the Shou character in gold, alternating with sprays of flowers. The border collar and cuffs are of peacock blue covered with butterflies. Yellow lining is in nice harmony with the outer colors. 52 BLUE AND GOLD MANDARIN ROBE In conventional style, dragons among the clouds float- ing above the Waves of Eternity. The dragon in Chi- nese mythology is a creature of the sky and mists. Bud- dhist emblems and bats are scattered over the coat. Long sleeves with black cuffs in the horse’s-hoof style. Accredited to the Chia Ching Period. 538 BLUE AND GOLD MANDARIN ROBE Same description as the foregoing. 54 LADY’S MAUVE COAT With little scenes woven in gold thread in the shape of medallions, trimmings in pale blue and gold. Lining of light blue. 55 LONG RED KUSSU COAT Partly hand painted. Cuffs of white with small medal- lions. Yellow lining giving a brilliant effect. 56 LONG KUSSU COAT IN RED Covered with butterflies. Cuffs in white and black like- wise covered with butterflies. Lining of slate color blue. 15 57 58 59 90 61 62 63 PLAIN COAT OF GREEN WATERED SILK With only a little embroidery on the cuffs. Lined with rich red. | LONG PLAIN COAT OF WATERED SILK In pale green with white cuffs, black collar and trim- mings embroidered with flowers. YOUTH’S MANDARIN ROBE In brown with conventional decorations; the dragon be- ing in gold thread and the other symbols in colors. A coat of summer texture. INTENSE BLUE COAT | With medallions and a border formed of little scenes worked in gold thread, sprays of flowers and fruits, butterflies and birds scattered over the coat with charm- ing effect. Lining of pale blue. Accredited to the Chia Ching Period. SCARLET COAT With dragons, bats, Phcenix and other emblems worked upon it in kussu. SCARLET COAT With dragon medallions in gold thread and brilliant colored silks. Lining of pale blue. SLEEVELESS JACKET IN NILE GREEN With unusually large dragons worked principally in gold, ornamented with other colors. 16 MAUVE AND GOLD COAT [ NUMBER 20] 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 LONG SCARLET COAT With medallion scenes worked in kussu partially hand painted. Black cuffs ornamented in a similar way. Border with wave effect. Lining of a pale yellow. LONG BLACK COAT OF SUMMER TEXTURE With gold and colored dragon medallions and other conventional designs. Broad lower border in many col- ored stripes topped with waves. Unlined. LONG SCARLET JACKET With an unusual amount of green in the design. The coat takes on various hues in different lights. Pink lining. BLUE AND PALE YELLOW ROBE Conventional Mandarin coat of solid texture. RICH AZURE ROBE Mandarin’s coat with many symbols and colors, con- ventional in pattern but unusual in the combination of shades. Lined with rich light blue. Accredited to the Tao Kuang Period. BLUE COAT OF VERY DEEP TONE With squares containnig the Phenix and medallions encircling the dragon. A very rich coat in character. Lined with pale blue. COAT OF MANY SYMBOLS (See Illustration) With medallions and emblems of Good Wishes and of Buddhism worked in brilliant colors on an almost black blue. Most of the work is of very fine Pekin stitching and gold thread is woven into each of the embroidered designs. The cuffs of white are heavily embroidered. Blue lining. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. 17 71 72 73 74 75 76 eK 78 PALE BLUE COAT A long simple coat with no decoration except upon the cuffs, collar, and border stripes. PLAIN BROWN COAT OF WATERED SILK Lined with bright yellow. Unusual in its simplicity. PEACOCK BLUE COAT Another plain coat, embroidered only upon the trim- mings. Lined with a very delicate blue. SCARLET JACKET For a little boy. Decorated with flowers and birds. Lined with blue silk. BLUE JACKET For a little girl. Delicate embroidery in pale colors. Lining of pale blue. LADY’S DEEP BLUE COAT With yellow cuffs, both cuffs and field embroidered in many colors of flowers. Old lining of faded blue silk. LADY’S FADED YELLOW COAT With bowls of flowers, butterflies and bats in several colors of blue and white. Lining of old pink silk. PLAIN SCARLET COAT ‘With plain green and white trimmings brilliantly em- broidered in gold and several colors. Old watered silk lining of blue. ee 3 18 79 FADED GREEN ROBE With medallions, floral sprays and the water design in numerous brilliant colors. Contrasted with black sleeves and collar. Lined with old silk in an unusual shade of pink. A brilliant coat, though stained in sey- eral places. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. 80 DEEP BLUE COAT Bats in red and white, symbols of Good Fortune flying among bowls of flowers. White cuffs highly embroider- ed in a very close Peking stitch. Pale yellow lining. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. 81 SKY BLUE COAT Brightly ornamented with flowers and butterflies. Pale yellow cuffs likewise embroidered. Rich old watered silk lining in salmon pink. Accredited to the Chia Ching Period. 82 PALE GREENISH BLUE ROBE Particularly brilliant in decoration with large butter- flies and intricate floral medallions. An unusual border base of waves upon which are worked sprays. of flow- ers. Cuffs and collar of black highly ornamented. Electric blue lining. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. 83 DARK BLUE COAT With pale blue and white decorations; squares contain- ing Phoenix in front and on the back, and other em- broidery. Lighter blue lining. 84 DEEP CRIMSON ROBE Mandarin coat with conventional design of dragon and Buddhist symbols. Blue lining. 19 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 PECULIAR BLUE COAT Plain coat with embroidery only on the white cuffs and with black collar and border trimming. Of thin sum- mer texture. : DEEP NILE GREEN COAT With Shou character alternating with sprays of flow- ers. Butterflies on the white cuffs; a black collar and border trimming with blue and white embroidery. Con- trasting yellow lining. GIRL’S COAT IN DEEP BLUE Floral medallions and sprays, little scenes embroidered on the white cuffs. Light blue lining. RICH RED ROBE With brilliant medallions and border contrasted with black cuffs and collar, likewise heavily embroidered ; slight trimming of gold thread. Old blue silk lining. Accredited to the Tao Kuang Period. TURQUOISE BLUE WATERED SILK COAT With embroidery in many colors showing vases of flowers worked in Peking stitch. A collar with little human figures and cuffs of water scenes. Lining of blue. BLUE WATERED SILK COAT A long coat, plain except for embroidered cuffs and collar. Lined with pale blue. | RARE SCARLET DRAGON MEDALLIONED WA- TERED SILK COAT Embroidered only on the cuffs and collar, trimmed with gold thread. Not lined. 20 COAT OF MANY SYMBOLS [NUMBER 70] 92 93 94 95 96 97 COPPERISH BROWN COAT Trimmed with white embroidered cuffs and collar. Scenes worked upon the lower border. Lined with an old blue silk. VERY DEEP BLUE COAT With medallions in gold thread. Considerably tarnish- ed but still showing the scenes, peculiarly Chinese, which are worked upon the base; also dragons with Buddhist symbols in the medallions. Old faded blue silk lining. Accredited to the Chia Ching Period. MIDNIGHT BLUE COAT Brilliantly covered with alternating butterflies and flow- ers. Border and collar trimmed with bats, emblems of Good Fortune, and Phenix, a symbol of the Empress. Old blue watered silk lining. SCARLET BRILLIANTLY DECORATED COAT With scenes in the medallions and also upon the white collar and cuffs worked in gold and blue and white. Old green watered silk lining. YELLOWISH CREAM COAT A pale coat, light blue and white embroidery through- out enriched by a black embroidered border and col- lar and a pale blue lining. FADED SCARLET COAT With a square on the front and back, and flowers and butterflies floating above a water base embroidered in blue and white. Lining of blue. 21 98 APPLE GREEN COAT With all over decoration of small designs showing but- terflies, flowers and vases. Cuffs of white. Unlined. 99 SCARLET COAT 100 101 102 103 104 Covered with small medallions in little groups worked in many colors. Cuffs of pale blue likewise decorated. Black embroidered collar and trimmings. Rich yel- low lining. VERY DARK BLUE COAT With contrasting salmon colored cuffs, embroidery over both body and cuffs of the coat in numerous colors. Old watered silk lining of pale blue. RICH MEDALLION ROBE On dark blue ground with richly worked cuffs on yel- low. Old pale blue lining. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. DEEP IVORY COAT With blue and white embroidery. Green cuffs sustain- ing little scenes, worked largely in Peking stitch, with several colors and a tracery of gold thread. Delicate blue lining. GREEN SKIRT - With panels of flowers and vases. Pale pink lining. RED SKIRT With embroidered panels. Deep green lining. 22 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 BLUE BLACK COAT Richly ornamented with scenes, pots of flowers and sprays. White cuffs with human figures and white collar and trimmings. Embroidered with some gold thread. Light blue lining. PALE APPLE GREEN COAT Covered with little scenes delicately embroidered. But- terflies and bats worked upon the black trimmings. Blue lining. Accredited to the Tao Kuang Period. ALMOST BLACK WATERED SILK COAT Trimmed with white, broad bands upon which little scenes are embroidered. Old pale blue watered silk lining. RARE BLUE COAT Watered silk. Slightly trimmed. Delicate blue lining. VERY RICH SCARLET COAT Trimmed with white cuffs and black collar and border, both of the latter embroidered. Unlined. DEEP BLUE COAT Oith kussu medallions and the conventional border base of spray and ocean. Blue lining. SCARLET COAT With fruits and butterflies. Of summer texture. Un- lined. CONVENTIONAL BLUE ROBE With silver colored silk thread working out the dragon and other Imperial designs. Pale blue lining. 23 113 114 115 116 117 119 MIDNIGHT BLUE COAT A lady’s coat, with delicate flowers, birds and butter- flies scattered over it. ‘The lower base is worked into a scene embodying rocks and trees and flowing water. Salmon pink cuffs highly embroidered. Old pale blue watered silk lining. SLEEVELESS JACKET Of blue with birds, floral sprays and Swastika. LITTLE BOY’S JACKET In yellow. Lined with deep pink. RICH RED ROBE Of particularly brilliant color. Large medallions, con- trasting black cuffs and collar richly embroidered and trimmed with gold thread. Blue lining. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. COPPERISH BROWN COAT Highly ornamented in blue and gold with touches of red. Black trimmings and cuffs richly decorated. Blue lining. Accredited to the Chia Ching Period. LLAMA PRIEST’S COAT Worked in gold thread on a slate blue ground, with sym- bols of the Buddhist faith. Brown sleeves and trim- mings. Brown silk lining. SHORT RED JACKET With little medallion scenes, butterflies and sprays, and scenes along the broad white trimming. Blue lining. 24. 120 121 122 123 124 125 KUSSU COAT IN DEEP BLUE. (See Illustration). Much of the coat is hand painted with most artistic effect, the detail having been most carefully considered, both by the embroiderer and the artist. Stitchings of gold cloth run through the wings of the butterflies. Light blue lining. RED SPRAYED WITH YELLOW Butterflies alternating between branches of plum blos- soms. Broad bands of white, also embroidered, trim the coat. Delicate green lining. DARK BLUE COAT With blossoms and birds scattered over the body of the coat; squares containing the Phoenix on the front and back and a scene worked upon the lower border. White embroidered cuffs. Old pale blue lining of watered silk. DEEP SALMON COLORED COAT With large butterflies, fruits and flowers, the butterflies being worked in the Peking stitch. Pale blue cuffs with human figures worked in a landscape. Black embroider- ed trimmings. Blue lining. PALE BLUE EMBROIDERY With touches of gold decorating a very dark ground. White cuffs. Old blue silk lining. SKY BLUE COAT Embroidered with rich colors. The base of the sea de- sign being particularly ornamental. Black cuffs and collar lend the needed contrast. Pink lining. Accredit- ed to the Chien Lung Period. 25 126 127 128 129 131 132 133 FADED BROWN ROBE Mandarin coat decorated in the conventional design. Somewhat tarnished with age. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. BLUE AND GOLD ROBE Mandarin coat of summer texture. COAT OF EIGHT HORSES Black robe with The Eight Famous Horses of an early Emperor carefully worked in medallions on the white cuffs. An unusual design on Chinese coats although a common subject for the artist. Pale blue lining. PINK COAT With white sleeves embroidered in blue. A black col- lar and border to the cuffs. Of thin summer silk. Un- lined. ; SLATE COLORED COAT Trimmed with white cuffs and collar upon which land- scapes are embroidered. Ivory colored lining. RED DRAGON COAT Lined with old white silk. Adokenieee to the Tao Kuang Period. BLUE ROBE A conventional Mandarin coat. Unlined. F KUSSU COAT IN RED | With some hand-painted designs, only the principal fig- ures being set in by what is known as the kussu process. Floral and butterfly effects. Black cuffs and collar also of kussu. Blue watered silk lining. 26 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 BLUE AND SILVER COLORED MANDARIN ROBE Lined with pale blue silk. RED DRAGON COAT The dragons being worked in gold thread and surround- ed by blue and white embroidered design. Highly sym- bolical of the Dynasty that has recently passed. Lin- ing of pink. DEEP BLUE COAT With brilliant floral and butterfly decoration. White cuffs with gold tracery in the embroidery. Pale blue lining. IVORY AND PALE BLUE COAT Trimmed with white and black. Blue lining of old wa- tered silk. BRILLIANT EMBROIDERY ON DARK BLUE COAT Pale blue lining. NILE GREEN SKIRT With gold dragons in the panels. Old pink silk lining. DARK BLUE COAT Brilliantly embroidered. Pale blue lining. COAT OF SCARLET FIELD Decorated with white and blue embroidery. Old water- ed blue silk lining. 27 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 IVORY AND PALE BLUE COAT With white cuffs trimmed in gold and black. Old green lining. CHILD’S COAT IN RED Embroidered throughout with gold and several colors. Black trimmings and blue lining. DEEP BLUE AND MANY COLORED COAT White cuffs embroidered with a little gold and other colors. Blue lining. BROWN, GOLD AND BLUE ROBE A Mandarin coat. A striking combination of these colors, crowded with symbols of the great Ching Dyn- asty. Lining of pale blue. Accredited to the Chia Ching Period. LONG BLUE SELEEVELESS JACKET Embroidered in gold and several minor colors: With a brilliant lining of old salmon pink. Accredited to the Chia Ching Period. BEAUTIFUL COAT , With blue cuffs and blue embroidery trimmed in black. DEEP BLUE COAT With pale blue and white decorations. Pink flowers thrown across the waves at base. Lions embroidered on white cuffs. Blue lining. BOY’S MANDARIN ROBE In brown with gold dragons and decoration in colors. Old blue silk lining. 28 KUSSU COAT IN DEEP BLUE [NUMBER 120] 150 152 153 156 DARK BLUE COAT Many colors combined brilliantly on dark ground. Bor- der of conventional wave design. Old blue lining of a different shade contrasts with the outer colors. DARK BLUE COAT Many colors combined brilliantly on dark ground. Bor- der of conventional wave design. Old blue lining of a different shade contrasts with the outer colors of the coat. THEATRICAL COAT In orange, embroidered in deep blue and gold. A hood accompanying the coat. Of conspicuous effect but of no particular artistic value. LONG SEA GREEN COAT Embroidered with bowls of flowers and sprays of fruit blossoms scattered over the entire field. White cuffs trimmed with black. Old pink watered silk lining. LONG SEA GREEN COAT Covered with cherry blossoms. White cuffs and collar trimmed with black. Yellow silk lining. MIDNIGHT BLUE COAT Embroidered with pale blue and white butterflies and chrysanthemums. The ocean base studied with pink rose in the Peking stitch. Light blue lining. SCARLET SKIRT The butterflies and some of the flowers are worked in the Peking stitch. Tan lining. 29 157 158 159 160 TURQUOISE BLUE COAT Beautiful old watered silk with Buddhist and other emblems. Landscapes worked upon the collar and border trimmings. Rich old deep salmon lining. RICH BLUE COAT With delicately traced chrysanthemums and other blos- soms scattered over the ground. Bordered in black, embroidered with cherry blossoms and butterflies. Yel- low cuffs with blue and white embroidery, the butterflies being in the Peking stitch. Lining of blue. LONG SCARLET ROBE With brilliant yellow lining of old silk. Embroidered in blue and white with butterflies flying among the chrysanthemums. White cuffs and trimmings of black embroidered bands. LADY’S SMALL COAT In dark blue with handsome butterflies in gold, light blue and white. Unlined. 30 : 161 162 163 164 165 SECOND SESSION Friday Evening, December 1, 1916, at 8:15 o’clock Lots 161 to 321 MANDARIN COATS VERY DARK BLUE COAT Harmonizing design in lighter blues of chrysanthemums and butterflies. Touches of pink in the border of the skirt. A blue lining which gives tone and character to the outer shades. A BRILLIANT COAT Embroidered with many colors on a light peacock blue. The cuffs and the lining of salmon pink, bordered with an edging of black giving a brilliant effect. BROWN MANDARIN ROBE The dragons worked in gold, the water effect forming the border of brilliant delicate shades. Bright yellow lining. SHORT JACKET In dark blue with human figures and vases of flowers embroidered over the ground. Figures in a landscape likewise embroidered on the white cuffs. Old yellow lining. DARK BLUE AND GOLD SKIRT A rich effect of landscapes in medallions and along the border of the skirt. Light blue lining. 31 166 PLAIN SCARLET COAT Embroidered only on the collar, cuffs and broad band trimmings. Old blue lining. 167 BLUE AND GOLD MANDARIN ROBE Of a youth’s size. Unlined. 168 BLUE AND GOLD MANDARIN ROBE Full size. Unlined. 169 MANDARIN’S RED ROBE With fine dragons embroidered in gold. Unlined. 170 DELICATE NILE GREEN ROBE (See Illustration). With lotus flower baskets in several shades of pink most carefully and artistically woven in medallions. The Eternity waves that border the skirt are of par- ticularly elaborate workmanship. The great cuffs of black and the collar are profusely and conspicuously well shaded with many colors. Pink lining. Accredit- ed to the Chien Lung Period. 171 RED BROCADED COAT The dragons and other designs woven in several colors. Pink lining. 172 BLACK SUMMER COAT With dragon medallion worked in oe and blue. Un- lined. 173 BLUE AND GOLD MANDARIN ROBE Of conventional design. Brilliant omnes Lined with pale blue. 32 N ROBE EE ATE NILE GR DELIC 70] [| NUMBER 1 oe 174 175 ae Wig 179 180 DEEP SALMON COAT Plain except for the embroidered cuffs and the trim- mings on the collar and border. Blue lining. VERY DARK BLUE COAT Plain except for embroidery on the cuffs, collar and border. LONG SCARLET COAT Of watered silk but otherwise plain except for the broad embroidered cuffs and collar. Blue lining. IVORY COLORED COAT Of beautiful watered silk with emblems of Buddhism worked in pattern. Trimmed with black embroidered collar, borders and white cuffs. Delicate blue lining. MOHAMMEDAN BLUE COAT With startling contrast in the broad cuffs, collars and border decorations, which are well worked designs in the Peking stitch. The embroidery is enriched through- out with gold thread. Lined with rich salmon pink. LIGHT MUSTARD COLORED COAT Watered silk with Swastika and other symbols through- out. Unlined. DEEP MUSTARD COAT Watered silk with white embroidered cuffs. Pale blue lining. 33 181 182 183 185 186 187 DELICATE BLUE COAT With decorations likewise in delicate colors offset by an embroidered border of black. Brilliant scarlet cuffs, part of which are embroidered in the Peking stitch. Pink lining. SCARLET COAT With flower vases and Buddhist symbols beautifully embroidered. Contrasting border of black ciabto ners with blue. Yellow lining. DEEP BLUE COAT Embroidered on the front and back with Pheenix square. Old pink lining. RICH RED ROBE Peking stitch is evident in much of the decoration which covers the entire field. Narrow border of black em- broidered with blue. Lining of old green watered silk. VERY DEEP BLUE ROBE With dragon medallion worked in gold surrounded by blue clouds tinged with flame. Border richly embroid- ered with conventional wave design. Pale yellow lining. RED WATERED SILK COAT Otherwise plain except for embroidered cuffs of blue and similar collar and border. Lining of old blue wa- tered silk. MIDNIGHT BLUE ROBE Embroidered with delicate shades of blue. Lined with old pale blue. 34 188 189 190 191 192 193 194 MANDARIN ROBE Similar to the foregoing. NOTABLE BROWNISH GRAY COAT Unusual in color, particularly delicate and well traced flowers, bats and butterflies. Collar of blue embroider- ed with cherry blossoms. Very light blue lining. LIGHT SAGE GREEN ROBE Mandarin. Highly decorated with a rich design of floral and butterfly medallions. Splendid ocean spray, effect along the lower border. Black horse’s hoof cuffs heavily embroidered. Pink lining. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. DARK BLUE COAT Embroidered in brilliant colors, some of it being in the Peking stitch. Blue lining. TURQUOISE BLUE COAT With decorations in many shades. Brilliant in effect, bordered by contrasting black bands embroidered in blue. Pink lining. BLUE MEDALLION COAT With a scene along the lower border. Pale blue lining. SCARLET FLOWERED COAT Much of the embroidery is in the Peking stitch. Waves of Eternity in blue with white sprays on the border. Green embroidered cuffs and a lining of old green silk. 35 195 196 197 198 199 200 SKY BLUE COAT Embroidered with butterflies, peonies, and other de- signs. The broad border stripe of white contains many children at play and other little landscapes. The col- lar is in keeping with this border. The cuffs are of yellow with gold thread bordering the embroidery. Old blue silk lining. WHITE COAT EMBROIDERED IN WHITE Only two or three of these are in the Collection. Trim- med with black bands embroidered in blue and white. Lined with white. BOY’S COAT In brown, embroidered in the conventional mandarin design. Lined with pale blue. BUTTERFLY COAT In scarlet, trimmed with black bands likewise em- broidered with butterflies. Lining of medium blue. DARK BLUE COAT With gold and pale blue landscape medallions and gold and pale blue blossoms and symbols. The Eternity design forms the border of the skirt. White cuffs em- broidered in black. Old lining of blue. DEEP SALMON COAT Enriched with embroidery of several tones, the butter- flies being embroidered in the Peking stitch, fruits and Buddha’s fingers are scattered among the flowers. In the black border band are embroidered other sym- bols and tokens of Good Fortune. Lining of pink. 36 BLACK AND GOLD IMPERIAL COAT [NUMBER 220] 201 202 203 204 . 205 206 207 BLUE MANDARIN ROBE Heavily embroidered in gold thread, the quailty of which is evidenced by its brilliancy, age having caused no tarnish. Black cuffs of horse’s-hoof pattern. Un- lined. Accredited to the Chia Ching Period. PALE SALMON PINK COAT Cherry blossoms and chrysanthemums in gray and blue alternating over the field. Black embroidered trim- mings. Medium blue lining. APPLE GREEN SKIRT With much of the best stitching in the embroidered panels. Old blue lining. IMPERIAL YELLOW SKIRT Embroidered. Blue lining. BIRTHDAY COAT With double Prosperity character worked throughout in gold thread on blue ground. Evidently a present wishing the wearer good Fortune. SLEEVELESS JACKET With the Empress symbol in the square on the front and back. Other Imperial emblems over the field. Lined with yellow. SCARLET WATERED SILK COAT With delicate medallion design and dragon covered cuff of back. The cuffs being of kussu work. Un- lined. 37 208 209 210 211 212 213 RICH BLUE JACKET Embroidered with various symbols. Green embroidered cuffs and pink lining. | SCARLET COAT WITH GOLD DRAGONS Other symbols crowded in several colors over the field. The border of the skirt is of the mea design. Sea green lining. VERY DELICATE BLUE COAT With artistically drawn long-stemmed roses and butter- flies in Peking stitch. Trimming of black bands em- broidered in blue and white. Lining of a deep blue. VERY DEEP BLUE COAT With unusually large and gracefully arranged sprays, elaborate butterflies worked in the Peking stitch. Cuffs of white embroidered with landscapes outlined in gold thread. Pale blue lining. SCARLET COAT With a landscape embroidered sa the border of the skirt and well drawn sprays of flowers, flying birds and butterflies. White cuffs are correspondingly em- broidered and border trimmings have touches of gold thread. Blue lining. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. DARK MAUVE COAT With elaborate Chinese bowls filled with flowers, replete with color. An unusual combination of color effects. Yellow embroidered cuffs. Old blue watered silk lin- ing. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. 38 214 215 216 217 218 219 SEA GREEN COAT With large red roses in a daring combination but strik- ing effect. Black border bands embroidered. Blue lining. FADED SALMON PINK COAT With notably artistic embroidery of birds of different sorts, alternating with conspicuously well-drawn flowers and fruits. Evidences of age have enhanced the beau- ty of this coat which is lined with pale blue. With a black collar. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. BRILLIANT RED ROBE With bowls of fruit and jars of flowers representing old Chinese porcelains. Broad black embroidered borders. Cuffs of pale blue heavily embroidered in several col- ors with a little trimming of gold thread. Rich green lining. Accredited to the Tao Kuang Period. HANDSOME BLUE COAT Made brilliant with beautifully shaded peonies and other blossoms. Lining of medium blue. TURQUOISE BLUE COAT With noteworthy medallions of beautifully shaded red peonies. The Eternity design borders the skirt. Black cuffs richly embroidered in delicate colors. Blue lin- ing. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. MANDARIN ROBE IN REDDISH BROWN With gold dragons end vari-colored cloud designs and symbols. Heavily embroidered cuffs of black. Lining of bright yellow. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. 39 220 221 222 223 224 225 BLACK AND GOLD IMPERIAL COAT. (See Illustra- tion). One of the richest coats in the Collection. The gold dragon, the Phenix and the waves of Eternity along the skirt as well as the minor symbols of Buddhism are worked in gold thread relieved with touches of blue and lines of silver upon the black background. Blue lining. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. MILITARY OFFICER’S COURT COAT In deep blue, the skirt covered with many dragon me- dallions and bordered with larger dragons playing along the spray of the ocean. The general effect is of gold, pale blue and flame color upon blue black. Un- lined. DAINTY COAT OF DARK BLUE With brilliant embroidery in the usual manner in pale colors shading one another. Old blue lining. LONG COAT OF TURQUOISE BLUE The embroidery in pale colors. Huge cuffs of black with bowls of flowers thickly embroidered over them, and a corresponding collar of black. Old blue watered silk lining. Accredited to the Tao Kuang Period. BLUE MANDARIN ROBE Embroidered heavily in tarnished gold. Lined with light blue. Accredited to the Chia Ching Period. — DEEP BLUE SILK COAT With the embroidered designs sewn upon the field. Medium blue cuffs heavily embroidered. Unlined. 40 226 227 228 229 230 231 FISH COAT Covered with small carp in silver, gold and blue on a mauve ground, sea weed floating amongst them. The fish are particularly well drawn. White cuffs embroid- ered. Blue lining. Accredited to Tao Kuang Period. GIRL’S COAT IN RED With blue and green flowers bordered with black, em- broidered in blue, white and threads of gold. Green lining. | IVORY COLORED COAT With well drawn sprays and butterflies embroidered in blue and white. White border embroidery edged with black. Pale blue lining. RICH BLUE MANDARIN ROBE With gold dragons, pale blue, green and red cloud ef- fects and emblems, the waves of Eternity bordering the skirt. Long black cuffs of the horse’s-hoof shape. Pale blue lining. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. LLAMA PRIEST’S COAT In brilliant red deeply bordered in rich blue with gold dragons, the emblem of the Dynasty and lotus blos- soms significant of Buddhism worked with notable ef- fect. Red lining. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. VERY DARK BLUE COAT With light blue and white shaded embroidery. Yellow cuffs. Pale blue lining. 41 232 234 235 236 237 MANDARIN ROBE IN BURNT RED Gold dragons, the clouds and symbols surrounding them being worked in blues and whites and pink. Deep border of the waves and spray of Eternity. Long black cuffs. Old blue lining. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. : BRILLIANT BLUE COAT With equally brilliant light shades in the embroidery which covers the coat. Black border bands heavily em- broidered. White cuffs with gold threads outlining the landscape which contains human figures. Blue lining, Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. WHITE COAT WITH WHITE EMBROIDERY Offset by black bands bordering cuffs, collar and skirt. Lining of blue. RICH SCARLET COAT Trimmed in black. Forming the ground for brilliant butterflies and sprays of flowers. Lining of old yellow silk. . BRILLIANT TURQUOISE BLUE ROBE With large medallions in many colors, the dominating tone being yellow. Waves of Eternity border the skirt. Black cuffs heavily embroidered in shades of color lend a contrast to the general higher tone of the effect. Pink lining. Accredited to the Chien Lung Period. APPLE GREEN COAT Daintly sprayed with well drawn flowers of several ' sorts. A narrow border of black embroidered in blue and white. Pink lining. Accredited to the Tao Kuang Period. 42 238 SLATE GRAY COAT Covered with butterflies of peculiarly Chinese drawing and extravagance. . n ios mi : v » * ’ i r 4 ' fi t Z i 4 \ : i ar ) : ( i rn ' : Z 4 cs } < ; , . a ‘ 4