edith Ab HDR el Fe idee sche cloaneman aig 2 Lge - Roper tatecrcetnesttecerererene toot startet Beri mat hos il i ll ETT RTS a Erne 4 4H Bawckaesn pier ; Arse aes oes PEA RELELEPRELEDELELEELEEEELELEILOE a tat (C 4 Saal Fs Se Ys A eN Vice 0 ag 2) ae os au Pascal — Stewed Quarter; Breast; Loin; Shoulder —- Head ; Head and Hinge — Fry — Sweetbreads; Lamb-stones and Sweet- breads fricasseed ; Lamb-stones fricasseed alone—Chops and Steaks. —Blanquette d’Agneau—Epaule, au naturel—Pieds A - 144 * CHAPTER XL VEAL. To keep—Fillet roasted ; boiled—Loin roasted—Breast roasted ; stewed —Shoulder—Neck ; a la Braise—Knuckle—Imitation of mock-turtle —Calf’s Head; hashed; fricasseed; baked; ragotit; rolled—Hashed Veal—Scotch Collops—Cutlets ; with rice ; with celery; a l’Italienne ; a la Hollandaise ; ala [ollandaise with white sauce—Farcies of Veal— viii a MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Rolled Veal—Tendons de Veau; aux Epinards; a la Villeroy—Fri- candeau— Fricandels—Miroton—Galantine—Veal Olives—Haricot— Calves’ Feet stewed; fricasseed ; fried —Queues de Veau— Calves’ Ears stuffed—Calves’ Brains; Croquettes of Brains; Cervelles au Marinade; fricassées — Fried Liver and Bacon — Liver and Lights— Heart — Kidney —Sweetbreads ; ala Daube; stewed ; fried; roasted ; fricasseed; Croquettes—Ris de Veau en Caisses—Garniture en Ragott — Veal Cake — Rolls — Blanquettes — Veal & la Chartreuse —To marble Veal—Scallops of cold Veal—To mince Veal; Turkish mode —Curry : ° . : ‘ . : . Page 150 CHAPTER XII. Pork. Observations—Sucking-pigs ; to scald; to roast—Roast Porker; Porker’s Head — Leg of Pork baked; roasted; boiled — Cutlets — Curry — Saddle — Loin and Neck —Loin & la Portugaise; a PEspagnole — Pig’s Feet & la Ste. Ménéhould; Pettitoes—To force Hog’s Ears— Pig’s Feet and Ears; fricasseed; Jelly — Pork Griskin—Sparerib —Belly — Shoulders and Breasts — Spring— Chine — Blade-bone — Pig’s Harslet —Hog’s Lard—Hams ; to boil; to roast; for Gravy— To boil Mutton Ham. . . . . ° : a) AiO CHAPTER XU. PouLTRY AND GAME. Poutrry: Observations—Turkey roasted; with sausage-meat; boiled; ala braise; pulled and grilled; devilled—Capon and Poularde; ala Provengale — Poéle— Fowl, boiled — Fowl, roasted; boiled with oysters ; with rice—Poularde ala royale; braised; aux oignons; aux pois—Poulet blanc; fried; en cdtelettes—Fowl, broiled—Fricassee —Rissoles—Purée de Volaille; Soufiié de Purée—Curry of Chicken —Dumpokht—Chicken boiled; a la Carmelite; pulled; fricasseed ; stewed in haste—Blanc to boil chickens in—Toad-in-a-hole—Goose —To stew Giblets—Ducks, roasted; stewed with green peas; with turnips ; with cabbage; in claret; hashed; boiled—Canard farci— Devilled—Pigeons, roasted; broiled; a la Frangaise; ragout; with peas — Pupton of Pigeons — Pigeons in jelly — Wood-pigeons — Pigeons, woodcock fashion—Larks roasted; stewed; a l’Italienne; a la Macédoine — Wheatears.——VeEnison: Observations — Haunch roasted—Steaks—Hashed cold.—~—GameE; Observations—Pheasants— Partridges roasted ; stewed; Salmi; broiled—Guinea and Pea fowl — Woodcocks, Snipes, and Quails—Quail and Ortolans—Grouse and Moorcock—Wild Ducks roasted ; stewed—Teal, Widgeons, and Dun- ¢ *, s * CONTENTS. ix birds — Landrails, Ruffs, and Rees — Swartzain — Plovers— Plovers’ Eggs— Hares: Remarks; roasted; with cream-sauce; Derrynane fashion; Leicestershire jugged Hare—Leveret, or Rabbit, with herbs—Rabbits: roasted ; boiled with onions; boiled with Jerusalem artichokes; fried; curry ; to taste like hare; & la Francaise; stewed with onions; stewed with mushrooms — Quenelles de Lapereau — Kloes of Berlin—Pilau of Rabbit—To crisp Parsley ; to fry—Fried Bread for garnishing; bread-crumbs ; : . Page 180 CHAPTER XIV. SALT-WATER FIsH. Observations—Marinade—Turbot, boiled; stewed; ala creme; baked— Brill—John-dory, boiled; baked; broiled — Plaice — Flounders and Dabs — Soles, fried; in cutlets; boiled; filleted; stewed; baked; Portuguese way ; meat stuffing—Skate, Thornback, and Ray—Halibut ; to collop; stewed Head—Codfish, Hake, and Ling—Cod’s Head and Shoulders — Cod’s Head roasted; stuffed — Tail of Codfish — Cod Sounds ; Codfish baked; au gratin; stewed; a Ja Provencale—Salt- fish, boiled; fricasseed; Spanish mode — Haddock, boiled; fried; broiled; baked; Scotch mode; stewed, maigre; Cropped Heads— Whiting — Gurnards, or Gurnets ; boiled, fried, baked — Mullet; broiled; fried; baked; stewed —Sea-bream — Chads — Mackerel ; boiled; soused; broiled; fried; baked; stewed; fillets; a la maitre Whétel ; roes—Herrings; fresh, broiled; fried; baked; boiled; smoked ; potted—Red Herrings—Pilchards—Sprats . =, 209 CHAPTER XY, FRESH-WATER FisH. Observations—Salmon ; boiled; the Berwick receipt; Aberdeen Fisher- man’s receipt; Salmon-peel; sauce; to preserve cold; broiled; cutlets; baked; a la maitre d’hotel; a la Génévoise ; to dry; to pot; to collar; to pickle—Trout; baked; boiled; in white sauce; in green sauce; fried; foreign mode; in salad sauce—Parr, Charr, and Grayling—Sturgeon ; a la Russe; caviar; stewed; roasted; cutlets —Carp and Tench; boiled ; Carp boiled “au bleu;” stewed; Tench stewed; Carp and Tench fried; to dress Carp’s Roe; a la Cham- bord—Fresh-water Bream—Pike, or Jack; boiled; stewed; baked —Perch—Water Zoutchee; Water Suché—Shad and Barbel—Eels ; best way to kill; to skin; boiled; fried; broiled; stewed; stewed French way; spitckcocked; roasted—Lamprey, stewed —Smelts — Whitebait—Roach, Dace, and Gudgeon . . ° ow ee 2O2 a3 x MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. CHAPTER XVI. SHELL-FISH. : Observations—Lobsters boiled; stewed; fricasseed; croquettes ; fritters ; miroton ; scolloped; curry—Prawns and Shrimps; stewed — Crab; boiled; stewed—Small Crabs and Crayfish; Crayfish stewed ; Cray- fish butter—Oysters ; scolloped ; broiled ; stewed, white, brown; rolls; sausages—Muscles, boiled ; French modes—Cockles and Periwinkles, boiled; stewed—Scallops, stewed—To scollop Fish—Grenade; Gre- nade of Sole—Croquettes of Fish—Rissoles—Casserole—Fish Turtle — Pate — Cake — Cutlets — Kedgeree — Fricandelles — Matelote — Vol-au-Vent—Stewed, Hebrew fashion — Curry — To preserve Fish fresh ; . : - : é 2 5 . . Page 250 CHAPTER XVII. Gravy, SAucEs, AND CuRRY. (RAvy: Observations—Stock— Without Meat—For a Haunch of V enison— To make Mutton eat like Venison—Velouté—Veal—For White Meat —KEssence of Ham—Rich. Sauces: Melted Butter; thin; maitre d’hotel; to brown—Parsley and Butter — Fennel Sauce — Caper, white; brown — Egg — Garlic—Onion— Shalot — For Rump-steak— Sauce Robert—For roast Beef or Mutton; Queen Mary’s; Mandram —Mint, for Roast Lamb—Mushroom, white; brown—Celery—Truffle — Chestnut — For white Poultry boiled; white; for Chickens; Vegetable Marrow—For roast 'Fowls—White—Cullis—Roux, white ; brown—Liaison—For Fricandeau, or roast Veal—Maitre d’ hotel— For Geese: for a Green Goose; Gooseberry; for a Stubble Goose ; Apple; Savoury Apple—For Ducklings—For sucking-pig ; Currant —For Wild-fowl ; Shikaree; Colonel Hawker’s—Liver, for Hare or roast Rabbit—For winged Game—Bread—For cold Fowl or Partridge -~-a la Tartare—Poivrade—Acha; Fish Acha; Indian-pickle—Sauces piquantes ; a l’Espagnole; ala Provengale; maigre; 4 1’ Hollandaise ——Tomata ; & l’Italienne; a la Francaise—Aux Epinards—Purée de Concombres—Sauce ala Ste. Ménéhould—La Mayonnaise—Carachi —Royale ; 4 la Reine—Original Oude—Quihi and Chetney—Khicha- ree — Christopher North’s — Wine Pudding —German Pudding — Sauces for Fish; Stock; Horseradish; for fresh-water fish; for all sorts; white; brown; without butter; Dutch— Oyster; brown— Muscle and Cockle—Lobster—Crab—Shrimp—Fresh-water Crayfish —For Sturgeon—For Carp, Pike, and Tench—For Smelts, Sprats, Roach, Gudgeon, and Dace—For Eels—Jelly to cover cold Fish. Curries: Remarks—To prepare—Curry Powders; Delhi; Madras; Bengal; Sir H. Pottinger’s—Modes of boiling Rice—King of Oude’s Curry—Bengal—Lord Clive’s—The Hastings—Prawn—Hard Egg— Malay—Hindcestanee Kuwab Fowl . : y “ : : 968 CONTENTS. x1 CHAPTER XVIII. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. VIGETABLES: Observations—Potatoes, boiled; to keep; new; Potato- ‘flour; jelly; wall; to mash; old to look like young; Potato- loaves; to brown; fried; roasted; Potato-balls—a la maitre d’hotel ; purée; omelette; farcies—Green Peas, boiled; stewed; with mint ; when old; to preserve for winter; Mr. Appert’s method of pre- serving—Broad or Windsor Beans, boiled; stewed—Split-peas Pud- ding—Carrots and Parsnips—Carrots stewed; a la maitre d’hotel ; au sucre — Parsnips, mashed; fricasseed — Turnips — Turnip-tops — Beet-roots, boiled; stewed — Cabbages; Sprouts, or Greens; Brussels sprouts; buttered cabbage; stewed—Lettuce, farcie a la _ Frangaise — Onions; stewed; roasted -—- Young Onions — Chives, Scallions, Shalot, Garlic —- Leeks — Spinach, boiled; stewed with cream; 4 la Francaise—Gourds and Pompions—Sea-kale—Asparagus, boiled; fricasseed; farcis—Artichokes, boiled; stewed; bottoms; a la Poivrade ; farcis—Jerusalem Artichokes—Cucumbers, stewed ; farcis—Vegetable Marrow; boiled; stewed—Celery, stewed—Cauli- flowers, boiled; in white sauce; with Parmesan—Brocoli—Brocoli and buttered Eggs—French Beans—Scarlet Runners; seed boiled— Mushrooms ; stewed ; fricasseed ; broiled; purée; buttered—Trufiles ; stewed — Fried Herbs— Haricots blancs, boiled; a lHollandaise ; Spanish receipt — Chestnuts for dessert — Cardocns, or Chardons— Salsifis, Skirrets, and Scorzanera—Tomatas ; stewed ; baked; stuffed ; Portuguese mode—Sauer Kraut—Chicoree, or Endive, au Velouté— Sorrel—Vegetable Ragotit—Olio—Bredic—Curry.——Sawanps: Mix- ture; Kitchener’s mixture; Summer Salads; Winter — Chicken — Lobster — French — Italian — Spanish —Vegetable —For Vinaigrette Page 298 CHAPTER XIX. SAUSAGES AND FoRCEMEAT. Sausacrs: Observations — Common Sausage-meat — Beef Sausages — Mutton — Cambridge —'To eat cold — Oxford—Oyster — Veal and Poultry—Fowl or Rabbit—Spanish and Portuguese—Black Puddings —White Puddings. ForceMEAT: Observations—Panada— Udder —Quenel'e; Panada for Fish Quenelle, or Forcemeat—Forcemeat— Farce cuite— Farce of Veal and Ham — Stuffing; for Hare—Fish Forcemeat — Oyster—Seasoning for Stuffing — Forcemeat Balls for Soupe maigre — Forcemeat for Turtle; balls; eggs—Passover Balls for Soup ‘ nea . ° : : : . - 330 xii MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. CHAPTER XX. Curinc Meat, Porrinc, AND COLLARING. Curie: Observations—Beef, to corn—To salt red—Dutch mode of salting — Hamburg Beef— Spiced —Spiced Flank — Leicestershire Spiced — Welsh — Hunters’ — Hung — To cure Tongues — Sheep’s Tongues — Hams; Fitzsimon family receipt — Westphalia Hams— Mutton Hams—Goose Hams—Bacon; Malines Bacon; Black Pool receipt; Wiltshire; for larding and braising—Hogs’ Cheeks—-Brawn , mock; to keep—To pickle Pork — Pickle that will keep for years. ——PorTine Anp CoLLARING: Remarks—To clarify Butter—To pot Lamprey—Shell-fish—Poultry and Game; Chickens; Partridges and Pheasants; Hare; Rabbit—Ham and Veal—Neat’s Tongue— Beef ; in imitation of venison—Ham Cake—To pot Mushrooms—Collared Eel—To “ caveach” Fish—To collar Beef—Calf’s Head—Breast of Veal—Breast of Mutton—Pig—Pig’s Head—Marinade for collared meats . = < é : ’ : 3 ; . Page 340 CHAPTER XXI, ITALIAN Pastes, Rice, Ecos, OMELETTES, CHEESE, PANCAKES, AND FRITTERS. IrauiAn Pasres: Observations—Macaroni; to brown; Neapolitan; cold; au vin; @ I’Italienne; timbale; aux truffes; & la Pontife; paté— Vermicelli — Semolina — Polenta.——Ricre: To boil; for savoury dishes; for sweet dishes ; a la Portugaise—Fritters—Pancake—Balls — Croquettes — Casserole aux (Cufs— Flummery — Paste; if for relishing things.——Eces: Remarks — To keep for winter — Boiled —Poached— Omelette ; au naturel; aux fines herbes; aux confitures ; aux amandes; dhuitres; a la Tartare; souffié; soufflé Frangais— iufs brouillés—A pretty dish of Eggs—Eggs aux fines herbes— Burnt buttered—a la Duchesse—Fricassee, white; brown—Egg Alb; & la Carmélite; a la Gruyére—(Cufs farcis ; en purée; sur le plat—Eggs and Vegetables : Spinach ; onions, or 4 la tripe; & la Frangaise; aspa- ragus ; artichokes.—CurrsE: Eggs and Cheese—Fondeau: & l’Ita- lienne ; en caisses ; small—Raméquins: & la Parisienne; fried ; Dutch; with wine or ale—Stewed Cheese; with ale; paste—Welsh Rabbit— Toast and Cheese—Cheese Pudding.—PancakEs AND Frirrers: Pancakes, various; apple; New England; Dutch; French; & la Po- lonaise—Taliani—Fritters: plain; apple; creme aux amandes; Spa- nish; French ; Italian; potato’; buckwheat; curd; orange and sweet- meat; coloured—Fish and Meat: Kidney; oyster—Beignet . 360 CONTENTS. xiii CHAPTER XXII. Paste, MeaT Pies, FisH Pixs. Paste: Observations— Crust for Raised Pies; for venison pasty, or Péri- gord pie; rich; less rich—Puff Paste—Very light Paste; for tarts and cheesecakes ; for orange cheesecakes or sweetmeats—Transparent Crust—Short Crust—Croquant Paste—Brioche Paste. Meat Pies, Pattiss, &c.: Raised Pies —Seasoning for Raised Pies—Jelly for Meat or Raised Pies—Paté de Gibier aux Truffes—Partridge Pie a la Frangaise; ordinary way—Chicken Pie—Rabbit—Hare—Tipperary Curry—French Pie—Vegetable—Cold—Veal; cold veal; and sweet- bread ; and sausage; and oyster; and pork—Pork, to eat cold—Calf’s Head or Calf’s Foot—Calf’s Foot and Kidney—Beef-steak ; and oyster —Mutton—Lamb—Squab—Potato—Venison Pasty; Beef or Mutton, like V enison— Yorkshire Goose Pie—Green Goose—Giblet—Christmas —Pigeon—Patties: Beef; Veal; Turkey; Mince; Oyster; Lobster; Shrimps — Vol-au-vent.—F isu Pirs: Codfish — Ling — Eel; with Soles, &c.—Sole—Pike; Perch; Carp—Pilchard and Meet chester —Oyster 7 : . . . . . . Page 386 CHAPTER XXIII. Fruit Pres, Purrs, PuppiInes, ETC, Piss, &c.: Observations—Apple Pie; Codling Tart; Pippin Tarts; new- fashioned Apple Pie; stewed Apples—Rhubarb Pie or Tart—Tartlets ; Orange; Lemon; green Apricot; Prune; a la Paganini—To prepare Cranberries for Tarts— Puffs: Regent’s Pastry; Apple; Lemon; Cheese; Parmesan; excellent light; Spanish; German; Austrian ; French; Irish ; Lady Abbess’s—Gauffres ; & la Flamande—Mince Pies— Lent Pies—Patties: sweet ; Croustade, or Dresden ; resembling mince pies; with curds— Cheesecakes; Miss Bratty’s; without butter ; Lemon; Orange; Almond; Potato—Cheesecake Stock—Icing for fruit pies and tarts. Puppincs : Observations—Suet—Beef-steak— Mutton and Kidney—Rabbit—Chicken—Game—Fish—Herb; Tansy. Sweer Poppines: Rich Plum; Shelford; Plum of different qua- lities — Hunter’s — Montagu — Batter — Custard, boiled; baked — Marrow—Curd, baked ; boiled—Transparent—Bread, boiled; baked; brown — Bread and Butter — Biscuit — Vermicelli, baked; boiled— Macaroni— Semolina—Arrowroot—Polenta; sweet—Sago—Millet— Muffin and Crumpet—Chocolate—Sponge—Cocoa-nut—Rice, baked, for a family; rich; boiled; with fruit ; ground—Saffron—Almond— xiv MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. College; New College; Trin. Coll.; Brasenose; Merton Almond; Vice-Chancellor’s; Rector’s; Curate’s; Dame Jones’s; Aunt Martha’s; Mother Eve’s— Erechtheum—Quaking—Brandy—Bake- well—Black-cap—Sweetmeat — Roly-poly—Cabinet— Conservative — Reform — Protectionist — Windsor Palace; Her Majesty’s; Prince Albert’s ; Royal Nursery ; Creme d’Orge—Queen Dowager’s—for the Maids of Honour—Cambridge—Prince of Prussia’s—Dutch—Madeira —German — Swiss — Berlin —a la Nesselrode—Prune—Pumpkin — Orange, baked; boiled — Lemon — Apple Charlotte; Charlotte de Pommes—Apples a la Cremone ; a la Suédoise; a la Dauphine—Char- treuse of Apples and Rice—Miroton of Apples—Pommes au Beurre— Gateau de Pommes—Pomme Mange—Fruit Puddings: Cranberry ; Rhubarb; Quince; Apricot; baked Apple; Fruit sliced into Batter ; Batter for Fruit Puddings; baked Gooseberry ; Damson—To prepare Fruit for Children—-Carrot Pudding—Potato—Economical—Hasty— Provincial Puddings: Wiltshire; Bath; Chichester; Yorkshire ; Welsh; Gloucester--Dumplings: Oxford; Apple; Yeast, or Suffolk ; Norfolk; quickly made; Currant . : ‘ ‘ . Page 409 CHAPTER XXIV. CusTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC. Custarps: Observations—French mode—Custard Cream—Rice Custards— Custard Cream of Chocolate—Coffee Custard—AImond—Rich—Orange —Lemon.— Creams: Champagne—Leché Créma—Italian—a la Va- nille—Charlotte Russe—Creme au Marasquin—Bohemian—. 613 INDEX . M3 . Py ° . 5 * e 625 THE DOMESTIC READY RECKONER, CONSISTING OF USEFUL TABLES FOR CALCULATING HOUSEHOLD EXPENSES. THE DOMESTIC READY RECKONER. ~~ WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 1.—Measure of Length. 12 Inches = 1 Foot 3 Feet os. do Yard 54 Yards == 1 Rod, or Pole 40 Poles = 1 Furlong 8 Furlongs = 1 Mile 693, Miles 1 Degree of a Great Circle of the Earth. An inch is the smallest lineal measure to which a name is given, but subdivisions are used for many purposes. Among mechanics, the inch is commonly divided into eighths. By the officers of the revenue and by scientific persons it is divided into tenths, hundredths, &e. Formerly it was made to consist of 12 parts, called lines. PARTICULAR MEASURES OF LENGTH. A Nail == 24 Inches Quarter = 4 Nails used for measuring Cloth of all Yard = - 4 Quarters({ kinds. Ell = 5 Quarters Hand = 4 Inches, used for the height of Horses. Fathom = 6 Feet, used in measuring Depths. Link = 7 In. 92 hdths,) used in Land Measure io facilitate i . ‘| computation of the content, 10 sq. Chain = 100 “inks. chains being equal to an acre, 2.—Measure of Surface. 144 Square Inches = 1 Square Foot 9 Square Feet = 1 Square Yard 30¢ Square Yards 1 Perch, or Rod 40 Perches = 1 Rood 4 Roods = sere 640 Acres = 1 Square Mile. 3.—Measures of Solidity and Capacity. Division I.—So.ipity. 1728 Cubic Inches = 1 Cubie Foot 27 Cubic Feet = 1 Cubic Yard, THE DOMESTIC READY RECKONER. xxi Division IJ.—Carpactry. 4-Gills = 1 Pint = 342 eubic inches nearly. 2 Pints oa Quart. =| G92 " . 4 Quarts = 1 Gallon =. 2774 os 2 Gallons = 1 Peck = 5543 a Ane ecke ———-~1- Bushe}-—=—~-221 8! " : 8 Bushels — 1 Quarter — — 104 cubic feet nearly. S aariees ==" 1 Load = *, 51! m The four last denominations are used for dry goods only. For liquids several denominations have been heretofore adopted, viz. :—For Beer, the Firkin of 9 Gallons, the Kilderkin of 18, the Barrel of 36, the Hogshead of 54, and the Butt of 108 Galls. These will probably continue to be used in practice. For Wine and Spirits, there are the Anker, Runlet, Tierce, Hogshead, Puncheon, Pipe, Butt, and Tun; but these may be considered rather as the names of the casks in which such commodities are imported, than as expressing any definite number of gallons. It is the practice to gauge all such vessels, and to charge them according to their actual contents. Flour is sold nominally by measure, but actually by weight, reckoned at 7 lb. Avoirdupois to a Gallon. 4.—Measure of Weight. AVoIRDUPOIS WEIGHT. 2744Grains = 1 Dram(dr.) = 27) grains 16*gDrams - = 1 Ounce (oz.) = “4374 _ ,;, BG stusees 2: 1.Pound (Ib.)- =~ 7000 a 28 Pounds = 1 Quarter (qr.) 4 Quarters = 1 Hundredweight (cwt.) = 112 lbs. 20 Cwt. i=: |] “Don =— 2240 ,, This weight is used in almost all commercial transactions, and in the common dealings of life. A Firkin of Butter . . 561b. | A Barrel of Soap . ~ 256 Ib. BOP ae fe of ES 2, | Raisins «, /Li2;, A Barrel of Anchovies . 30 ,, A Fother of Lead. ~ . 193 cwt. The particular weights belonging to this Division are as follows :— ewt. qr. Ibs. 14 Pounds = 1 Stone* = O O | 2 Stone = 1 Tod are a OG : 63 Tod Sete WOW ae ey bee Td Leon pat Ba Weys.) = .1 Sack , =~ 3. 1,, 0 ’ PowSarnes s='ef bast’ 91 8950 0 * A Horseman's weight is also 14 pounds to the stone. xxii THE DOMESTIC For CALCULATING THE Prices or BuTcHERs’ [Butchers buy and sell by the stone of 8 lbs. ; the variation ete 3/8 | 4/0 | 4/4 4/8 5/0 5/4 5/8 oe t 53d. 6d.' ef. td. tA, sd. a Skd. - lbs. | 8,.d..\ 8. di}. & od. | £. 8.0) tes Se 2 14 14 1% 14 2 2 3 3 3 3 33 33 4 2 43 45 5 5 6 6 2 elie fs as oo hes Dae reat ete Ye 4 I 3 rT 4a) - 3. 6) | od 39m I 9 I loz 220 2 i 4 2 ae zo ae oe. 2.6 2° <8 2. 40 5 2. Sa) 2) ob ee 211 3 «34 rey 3 ie i a is fas ae Bee 3 6 3 9 4 0; 4 21 3. 2a) 3) 8, 2 oe 4 43) 4 8) 4113 8°) 3 78 AO aed 4 8 5 0 5 4 5 8 Sa Ta BO gee 5 7) 0 8h 8 4d 10 y Pe es ak Gee | Sp hae ee 5 10 eee! 6 8 oe LD) 5 Og | 5 VO OS are ee 6 10h] 7-4) 7 OF 12 5.2 VOSA SiG a eerie ee ia: + hai 4 8 Oo 8 6. 13 5 115] 6 6 | 7 of (ee: 8 If 8 8 9 24 14 6.25% 7 +30 \ hae | 8 2 8 9 9 4 g II 15 6 10h) 7 6 eee 8 9 9. “4af TO 0]: ro: 9 16 va 8 oO ie 9 4 ID. 3 Io 8 TT. 2k he 7 941° 8, 6 tag- 28 9 II TO “gh SeeE a) ER SS 18 ie 9 0 9.9 Io 6 Er eg ee) I2 9 19 8 Seo. 6 1 eee ieee ee It Ton ga oe | O53) Se 20 9. 2°) 10 ~ 0 Tro 76 rr 6 12 6 eek 14 2 21 9° 974/10 6 V1rS eh 13 tA] 4 O| 14 Log 22 KTO 18 bITa aries I2 Io 1358 T4098) 15.9 23° | 10, OF 1 11-6 (4254) “org ee 14 44/45 G4] 36-38 2: Lt sO 4)12 °(O. 3 3Gee 14 0 ) cane) 16} 5 OEe 25) fr r OEP PTI 6) FSG ees 15 “aa nb en eg 26 2) 2E53 0193" 50 meer | is 2 i bbe fine 18 220(12 441332 (14 et (ees 16 rok] 318 Of} Ig e852 16° [eA oay ae 2 16 4 17 6 18 38 Ig Io 207113 FERIA 6 pay es 6 ae 16 Is” 19 “Alar “oO BOTLE3 . 9 kG OTs i E76 18.9900 O LOE = Si |i4g- 24/75 6.1.26 ob lo eye ae 19), Agi 2 30 8) ea sr am ne le Sep oes ee a a tar a 16° Sr eel ere ee 33. (15 Ig[ 166.717 10h) 39 “BN Og er eee OAS Fi bo Is sg TgTO. | LAL BES 2 we re 35 |16 of/17, 6 418 115/17 olagy er Gritohiaies waa 93 36 9/16/6448 10 |19 6 1x T20 (T 02° (Gente re 870i) EG Tg} 6] 20 OF} Tg 7) 1 3 Tea eee 38-117 5 179'0 120 7°91 3°52 fy “3 soe eee 39/17 Io} 19 6 [21 IZlt 2 9 |x 4 4hlx 6 Olt 7 AQ. | 18. 4 120.90 ke 8 iL 3 4°15 35 0 250 ee ee eee i : = Sant = PREPARED FOR MURRAYS Mxat, from 1 1b. to 40 Ibs., at 54d. to 114d. per Ib. n price at the rate of 4d. per stone, or 3d. per lb. ] READY RECKON ER. ee LS LLL ELLE SESS OCT SC EEL IE TOES 5 ITSP ACEI SSA SE OSES Senne 1 1 oe SAV NAHM SH NAOARNRAHD OK MOOI NMH4HNOSKHQOHNRNHDODK OAS o 5 H | ™ mip pnd md mmm md rem rm GOR GY OR CR GR CR ER GY A OD 09 09 00 09 0 00 OD BH SH erate wen | =~ eS * ein ela ela ein =| es aN col ea) ela elo min co es ela es es Ala ain ela pelea ~ "S ea ino HOO DADDNNOO ming tama AH HO OF ROO DADOD ROOD ANT + ® | pica é % > rina! ®@ HMMS INO MO DOH AMMO RD DOH AMAT IAO RDO DOH AME WO RO = Lon A en oo I Lo oe oo ee | we) Ln en le on on oe 2 re | . ae "S mun ODADMOMAPDMNAHOH OO DOA MOWTMAH OHO DD RO WtMAHOHO COO x SS onl - me oR Le | Se aw w HAMA TARO TO DOH HA MPD INRO MD DOHA AMA TFino BRO DOH AMS MO re Co oe ln I oe Do Bo on Boe | Lae Me oe | QQ lian Lon iil en iil en on a 2 2 2 2 Ry ocie ics ei mie in i: ain IN II INI I III IN IN in is Awmm™ DAMmo TMHO SEEN BO ORY ESOT yO Oi GUESS RE 65 EF On Qu OraenOe

° PS, = a SH eS o SSeS SS LEMONS Boe snk ae r~ = ; ee ee a ee Q a erin TS. CGIAR ESOS NOSE AO, O90, NES YO O00 GUHA OO COLO RP er OOO SA O O06 + HO Coo TS ° Lo) Lama Lom! H ass) " : Py > nw BA MPFANMO MOA HO OHA MHtiAMO HMDA DOOHAMAMMO RDA DAOOH AM La Lon oe ls A oe lon nD eo | le lee Bl on on | | Q Len ee oe 2 eleeles mist I I IS Ii NIN INI in in ae oma oda oA Ris | Spe ME AH DO PFTHHDOMH OD MMOD MAA OANRTAH AO FHHOWO MHOO + ~J H Leal H =) lal al = = e. i) HAMMNTPFDMNO MEO DOHA MS MAMO RD ARDOMAAN Mt iNOW RO DOO se} Cll se on Le = HH YQ Le Lene en an A oP 2) mes es eer Ro eB OMI DO MOD DHOMODO MO DAO MO DOMO DAOMO DAOMO DO MO DAO MO —) $ F So a wy HAMAMAAMOC HD ADADOHANAMEMMO HDD ADOHH AMT TMBO KORO AO ee ee] Hi a} ei, St SS ey. Rida ead ano “MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY.” xiie MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY, © Inn nr Salt and Salt Provisions. A peck ofsalt . . . 14 lbs, | Butter, Irish, firkin, about 70 Ibs. A bushel of salt, . «| « 56; 3) COI a ewcneeere ees rock Salts « 65. 4» » (bartel™ <7) oom Dutch, cask 39 Pr) Beef, Irish, tierce of, 304 Ibs Pork, Irish, tierce, 0} oo 32) 38 pieces or F % ca or barrel, 25 ag ; arrel, army, an if of 8 Ibs. sah pieces or oT © firkin, 25 pieces) barrel, mess, i ei of 4 Ibs. s ee 4 pieces or ae Butter, firkign; -. .| #7 565 | » firkin, 25piecesor 100 , Medical Proportionate Doses. If a dose be one, or one drachm, for a person 21 years of age, the propor- tionate doses according to age should be :— Under 1 year . 7, or 5 grs. | Underl4 years . 4 or {iss 3 2 years ob. 4 Years 2 a 1g 0 Ba » Sim « £4 10 ere. P AbGvegieea. ee a ca, ea ee 1. » lh, are: » 65 ,, the inverse ratio th Pte th by) Fee Women require smaller doses than men. PHYSICIANS’ CHARACTERS.—R, recipe, take; &, fa, or ana, of each the same quantity; ss, signifies the half of anything ; cong. congius, a gallon; coch. cochleare, a spoonful; M. manipulus, a handful ; P. pugil, as much as can be taken between the thumb and forefingers ; q. s. a suf- ficient quantity. Weight of English Coins. GOLD. SILVER. ae ee Lee. Set eh Crowii . cs cb. sel ey ceed overelgn pea fas Ba eae: Half-Crown °.+ +» 9; 0 2-21 Half-Sovereign . . 2 18% The Florin or Double Shilling . . hi Shilling j-<.2°5:} ete Ge 46 leeds Sixpence)» 4s 45 = Me IPT yait Fourpence «» «) + lf 5 1-i1 Practice Tables, Of a Pound. r -Ofa Ofa Ofa Ofa 10/ «+4 1/86 «7 Shilling, Ton. Cwt. Quarter. Rack d. . « £|Cwt. ae 3 1/ 1 3 a - ; 10 mas 1 Qr. Ib. Ib. ot ora teomaute 1| 2 or 56 3/14 .. 23 . ° 4 3 . € e = r 4 t 5 3/4, i is ee 4 od. ; 4 1 4 : 2 } 1 bb] 28 + % ee 4 2/6. 1) 4d. ocd ER ae ple) ss 16.7) 4 2.24 LAP RE Bae - 2/ 5) Hi) Un enconntfipcless Don sreineatil 442-3 She-o ie ° THE DOMESTIC READY RECKONER. XXV Table to Calculate Wages and other Payments. Per | Per Per Per Per Per Per Per Year. | Month. Week. | Day. | Year. Month. Week. Day. Some Se Git sai d. EPIL ES as | Se kee fds Pe? dl. 1 Peak eo oe Oe WF 15 P15; 6 659 10 2 Re 41 Osos 4 16 tr o1'S 6 I¢ tos 3 a an Gia © a ae: Poy ete) se 6 624 11+ 4 6 8|1r 63] 22 iS.) F-18046 6 102 11? 5 ES) GS aie e' 32 Po. Pt ris 8 INja © Ox 6 | ok ae ae, a A SOPs Lees, +18 It % ie 2 te | 64k 20 AXIO} SO $i) 6 I 72 s Mere. ee | bt ty 40 7 36) By ts 4 12 2g 9 No a eS aa a 5O fT 4 3) 4 ¥Qu) 2 2 9 10 r6 6 1°3* ro 64 Go $e 8, Cr 37) OF 43. od 11 18 4/4 22) 74 Woe G16) 6 fr r- G@) gos 3-1 1m |}t o 0} 4 7 8 80 613 4!2110 8 |4 43 Isp e gk O01 4 112 | 84 90 | 710 Of 1 14 62774 115 4203 4)5 44) 94 | 100 | 8 6 8/118 4g] 5 5e If the Wages be Guineas instead of Pounds, for each Guinea add one Penny to each Month, or one Farthing to each Week. Rule for Calculating Interest, at 5 per Cent, Multiply the Pounds by the number of Days, and divide the Product The Quotient gives the Interest at 5 per cent. in Shillings. by 365. Table of Discount, or Interest. 24 per Cent. is . ?? s wDoworerereo°oeos d. - 6 per £ Tepe FATS 9% 55 20 Didickan Kieth 24 rp] 25 ery Sires Pinal 545 35 GRP, 40 ” 15 per Cent. is TO oe P 1 Wa o co QES .O*ORa Oo: a iO = XKXVi MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. iE Table of Interest for One Year. oa To Be pe i 5 Oo 4 5 oe ee PER — PER CENT. | PER CENT. | PER CENT. £ £..s. d.| £ s.. d. | $8. d, | ee 1060 25.0 O| 30°50 O| 35 8 Oe 900 22 10 O| 27 O O-| 3 10 Of SOR 800 20 0 o0| 24:0 ©] 2% (6 O))32 00220 a 700 I7 10 0 | 21.0 0: 24 10 Oje20 Oe Opes somo 600 If © O]|.18 O OO | 22 40 Of 4 eee 500 I2 10 O-| 15 0 O 17 10 0) 20.0 ee a 400 Io 0° 0o|]12. 0 01] 14 0 © |) 16 .O eee a so 300 7.10% 9.0 © | LO IO O}.12, Oeegs. oe 200 5. OCS 6 pO Tigo 8. OO G5t0.7.0.0 100 2 10)-0 BuO Bul 40 A, Ose 5 0 40 90 2. 357.0 2 tA sO 22 CO 3 1240 APIO” O 80 2° pee 278 2, Lig 3. 45 Og saeetR ao 70 L150} 2-2 0) 2%9 Of) 2.560 ot) ee 60 ft 106-0 tT f6:905) @ boee 2. G6 7. °Oap 50 L+gp22 T5280 25 a0 2. Oo. o 2 10:0 40 I OmeD caer Ses Lie setae 6) Tot 2st) RE 30 epee 18 oO tee BO Tt 4) Oo 1, {O.7'O 20 167-0 ¥2) © 14°07 16) Oo! |= Oreo 10 5. Oo C=O Pre 2,09 10.8 9 4 6 5 43 6 33 7 23 9 0 8 4 0 4 oF ie 6 48 ae 7 a8 4 23 4 10% ee 7° 6 3 0 eer 4 25 4 8 6 0 5 2°.6 es zB is Au 1 a) 4 2 3 2 42 2 9f 3 24 4 0 3 13% T .O¢ 2. If 2 43 3° 3 2 ro I 24 I 4? I 7 pm 1 6 74 85 93 ro EXAmpLre.—Required the interest on £1070 for one year at 3} per cent. By the Table, £1000 for one year, at 34 per cent.,is £35 0 0 70 do. 2 one The interest requiredis - £37 9 0 N.B.—For 2 per cent. take one-half of 4 per cent. Gold and Silver Legal Marks. All articles manufactured of gold and silver, except watch-cases, have to be taken to the Assay Office of the district, and if found of legal quality are stamped with the following marks :— The Hall Mark, showing the district where manufactured, or the hall where assayed, is, at Birmingham, an anchor ; Chester, three wheatsheaves THE DOMESTIC READY RECKONER. XXVii ora dagger; Dublin, figure of Hibernia; Edinburgh, castle and lion; Exeter, a castle with two wings; Glasgow, a tree and a salmon with a ring in its mouth; Lonpon, a leopard’s head; Newcastle-on- Tyne, three castles ; Sheffield, a crown; York, five lions and a cross. The Standard Mark for gold of 22 carats, and silver 11 oz. 2 dwts., is, for England, a lion passant; Edinburgh, a thistle; Glasgow, a lion rampant; Ireland, a harp crowned. For Gold of 18 carats fine, a crown and the figures 18. For Silver of the new standard, figure of Britannia. The Duty Mark is the head of the Sovereign, and indicates that the duty has been paid. The Date Mark isa letter of the alphabet, which is changed every year : it however differs in different companies.. The Goldsmiths’ Com- pany of London have used the following: from 1716 to 1755, Roman capital letters; 1756 to 1775, small Roman letters; 1776 to 1795, old English letters; 1796 to 1815, Roman capital letters, A to U, omitting J; 1816 to 1835, small Roman letters, a to u, omitting j; from 1836, the old English letters. Bread, Flour, &c. Ibs lbs. A peek, or stone of flour . 14 | 6 bushels of wheat yield of) , Atinispel of our ~*~... O56 fine icgroeeee . ak 280 A boll of 10 pecks or stones 140 | 280 lbs. of flour, 1 sack,) , 0 A barrel of American flour. 196. make of white bread >| a A pack, or load of flour. . 240 | 8 bushels of wheat, 1 quarter, 469 A sack, or 5 bushels of flour 280 average of flour. . } Om A gallon of flour. . .°. Piha RPh O, DECA oa foie 5 pease seedy Lk A bushel of barley . . . 47 | A man’s average use of il A bushel ofpeas» . . . 64 bread weekly . . \ Pee +. 60.1 Litto yeatlyo. *s tee 572 rye. + +» + 50 | which is the produce of 1 quarter Gate pao). se 0 of wheat. Wheat o>. ° Sae.60 A sack of flour in some counties is 18 stones, or 252 Ibs. The sale of bread by the quartern is now abolished ; it is sold by the 4 Ib. and 2 Ib. loaf, which must be weighed in the presence of the purchaser if required. Potatoes uncléaned are sold at 120 lbs. to the ewt. The quantity of wheat consumed in the United Kingdom daily is 35,714 qrs. ; of other grain, 119,048 qrs.; total per diem, 154,762; mak- ing the annual consumption of wheat 12,000,000 qrs.; of other grain, 40,000,000—total per annum, 52,000,000 qrs. Po Xxvili MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. ASSESSED TAXES, In 1840 (8 and 4 Vict. c. 17) 10 per cent. additional was imposed on all the assessed taxes, which is charged separately. House Duty. On every inhabited dwelling-house, of the value of 20/. per annum, or upwards: If used for the sale of goods, as a shop or warehouse, the shop or warehouse being on the ground-floor; or for the retail sale of beer, wines, or spirits ; or if occupied by a tenant or farm-servant for husbandry purposes only, for every 20s. of annual value— the sum of . e e ° ° ° ° ° ° ° e ° ° e ° . 6d. If not occupied for any such purposes, for every 20s. of annual value ® e e e ° e e e e e e e o e e s ‘ 9d. Number of Houses rated above 201., and Amount of Duty under the House Tux, 1851, for the first year: Shops and Farm-houses charged at 6d. in the pound ; other houses at 9d. in the pound. At 6d. Duty. At 9d. Duty. England and Wales, 172,934 200,182 19 2 252,213 463,204 4 8 BOoOtland Wigeue. 6,377 p2es ie 24,095 38,340 17 1 Totals . . £205,471 10 11 £501,545 4 9 Total amount of duty, £707,016. 12s. 8d. Duties on Male Servants. : at per Bachelors’ | No. Servant. ditto. * This Rate of Duty (11. 4s.) is payable for = any male servant, being only an occasional £ aoe d servant to his employer, if the employer shall mn Se . > S&. ‘ otherwise be char gzeable to the above duties 1 I -Asgay apo °} on servants, or to duty on any carriage, or on 2 leo eg eale | Le bye ie: more than one horse kept for riding or draw- < Il 4 ing any carriage ; and if the employer shall A 8 4 18 2 .| not be chargeable to such other duties, then 2 3 3s | the sum of 10s. is payable for every such 5 Pe io Ti ae nd al > male person employed. 6 ia in ss Sain Male servants, as above described, each v 212 6 | 3 12 6/.4| being under the age of 21, and the son of the 8 Bre 01-376 o| $ employer, are exempt from duty. 9 Daa Ose et S Coachmen, &c., let on job, 12. 5s. each. 10 3: le GH BkeGr- 6 Male servants, under 18 years of age, em- il ' ployed by persons residing in the parishes in and 3 toe 6.1 4 Tob which such servants have a legal settlement, upwards. are exempt from duty. ———— ee eee eS SSE BIN a Cw : i he — i|| \K a i i Hi I \ | }} \ : | S> We A \ Cre oe i | I | OA i = re = i} TTT PUSS al a = ———— == « 7 Ui | ! THE KITOHEN. a. nn ee » Ra =e -= MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. CHAPTER I. OBSERVATIONS FOR THE USE OF THE MISTRESS OF A FAMILY. Importance of a Knowledge of Household Affairs — Direction of a Table— Accounts — Prices of Provisions — Servants — Their Characters and Wages — Hints on Domestic Economy — Bills — Inventories — Store- room — Bread — Sugar — Soap and Candles — Vegetables and Fruit — Eggs. IF our ancestors made domestic occupations too exclusively the aim of female education, it may be truly said that the present generation has fallen as unwisely into the contrary extreme. It is indeed a very common, but a very erroneous supposition, that attention to culinary affairs is unnecessary in a gentlewoman; yet there can be no question that elegance, comfort, social enjoyment, and, it may be added, health,. materially depend upon attention to the fable; and the pru-. dent management of her family ought to be considered an important object amongst the duties of every lady when she inarries. There are comparatively few persons among the middle classes of society who can afford to keep professed cooks, their wages being too high, and their methods too extravagant. In such cases a plain cook is alone attainable, who knows little beyond the commonest operations of the kitchen. The mistress ought therefore to make herself so far acquainted with cookery as to be competent to give proper directions for dressing a dinner, and having it properly served up. Perhaps there are few points on which the respectability B 2 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. _ Cuap. I, nn en of a man is more immediately felt, than the style of dinner to which he may accidentally bring home.a visitor. Every one ought to live according to his circumstances, and the meal of the tradesman ought not to attempt to emulate the entertain- ments of the higher classes; but if the dishes be well served, with the proper accompaniments, the table-linen clean, the sideboard neatly laid, and all that is necessary be at hand, the comfort of both husband and friend will be increased by -the usual domestic arrangements not having been interfered with. Hence the direction of a table-is no inconsiderable branch of a lady’s duties, as it involves judgment in expenditure, respectability of appearance, and the comfort of her husband as well as of those who partake of their hospitality. Inatten- tion to it is always inexcusable, and should be avoided for the lady’s own sake, as it occasions a disagreeable degree of bustle and evident annoyance to herself, which is never observable in -a well-regulated establishment. In doing the honours of he table, the mode of carving is also of importance, and will be treated of in a future chapter. . The mode of covering the table differs according to taste. It is not the multiplicity of dishes, but the choice, the dressing, and the neat look of the whole, which give an air of refinement toa table. There should always be more than the necessary quantity of plate, or plated ware, and glass, to afford a certain appearance of elegance; and these, with a clean cloth and a neatly-dressed attendant, will show that the habits of the ‘family are those of gentility. For a small party, or a téte-a- téte, a dumb waiter is a convenient contrivance, as it partly saves the attendance of servants. The cruets should be looked to and filled every day an hour before dinner; and much trouble and irregularity are saved, when there is company, if servants are accustomed to prepare the table and sideboard in similar order every day. Too many or too few dishes are extremes not uncommon: the former encumbering the dinner with a superfluity which partakes of vulgarity, whilst the latter has the appearance of poverty or penuriousness. ee Cuap. I. DIRECTION OF A TABLE. 3 In all situations of life the entertainment should be no less suited to the station than to the fortune of the entertainer, as well as to the number and rank of those invited. If the ar- rangements of the table be properly studied, a degree of elegance is attainable under all circumstances, however econo- mical ; and the plainest fare, if carefully dressed, may be made to furnish dishes which every one will eat with relish. Should there be only a joint and a pudding, they should always be served up separately ; and the dishes, however small the party, should always form two courses. ‘Thus, in the old- fashioned style of entertaining a couple of friends with “ fish, soup, and a roast,” the soup and fish should be placed at the top and bottom of the table, removed by the joint with veget- ables and pastry; or, should the company consist of eight or ten, a couple or more of side dishes in the first course, with game and a pudding in the second, accompanied by confec- tionery, would be quite sufficient. : In most of the books which treat of cookery, various bills of fare are given, which are never exactly followed. The mis- tress should select those dishes which are most in season. The cuts which are inserted in some of those lists put the soup in the middle of the table, where it should never be placed. For a small party a single lamp in the centre is sufficient; but for a larger number the room should be lighted with lamps hung over the table, and the centre occupied by a plateau of glass or plate, ornamented with flowers or figures. The mistress of a family should never forget that the welfare and good management of the house depend on the eye of the superior; and, consequently, that nothing is too trifling for her notice, whereby waste may be avoided or order maintained. If she hag never been accustomed, while single, to think of family management, let her not upon that account fear that she cannot attain it: she may consult others who are more experienced, and acquaint herself with the necessary quantities, quality, and prices of the several articles of expenditure in a family, in proportion to the number it consists of. ‘The chief duties of life are within the reach of humble abilities, and she B 2 4 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap, I, whose aim is to fulfil them, will rarely ever fail to acquit her- self well. United with, and perhaps crowning all, the virtues of the female character, is that well-directed ductility of mind which occasionally bends its attention to the smaller objects of life, knowing them to be often scarcely less essential than the greater. A minute account of the annual income and the times of payment should be kept in writing; likewise an estimate of the supposed amount of each article of expense; and those who are early accustomed to calculations on domestic articles will acquire so accurate a knowledge of what their establish- ment requires, as will enable them to keep the happy medium Between prodigality and parsimony. In apportioning the items of expenditure of a family, some- thing should always be assigned for the use of the poor, which enables any pressing case of distress to be at once attended to, without a question ‘“‘ whether the money can be spared.”’ Much might be done for the poor if care were taken to keep a pan, into which every bone and morsel of spare meat, vegetables, &c., were put: these might be stewed, the bones taken out, and a few peas added, making a meal, two or three times a week, for any poor deserving family, without increasing the family expenditure beyond a few pence. Perhaps few branches of female education are more useful than great readiness in figures. Accounts should be regularly kept, and not the smallest article omitted to be entered. If balanced every week or month, the income and outgoings will be ascertained with facility, and their proportions to each other be duly observed. Some people fix on stated sums to be ap- propriated to each different article, as house, clothes, pocket, education of children, &c. Whatever may be the amount of household expenditure, a certain mode should be adopted, and strictly adhered to. Besides the regular account-book, in which the receipt of money and every payment should be regularly entered, a commonplace-book should be always at hand for the entry of observations regarding agreements with servants, tradesmen, and various other subjects, so as to enable the mis- Cuap.I. ACCOUNTS—PRICES OF PROVISIONS. 5 tress of the house at once to ascertain the exact state of the affairs under her immediate management. Want of arrangement leads to loss of time ; ag time, if lost, can never be regained. arly hours, order, punctuality, and method, are its great economists, and cannot be too rigidly enforced. If orders be given soon in the morning, there will be more time to execute them ; and servants, fe doing their work without hurry and bustle, will be more likely to do it well, and fewer might be necessary. To give unvarying rules cannot be attempted, as people ought to act differently under different circumstances: the minutize of management must therefore be regulated by every one’s fortune and rank, but there are many general rules which will be found equally advantageous to all. It is very necessary for the mistress of a family to be in- formed of the prices and goodness of all articles in common use, and of the best times, as well as places, for purchasing them. ‘She should also be acquainted with the comparative prices of provisions, in order that she may be able to substi- tute those that are most reasonable, when they will answer as well, for others of the same kind, but which are more costly. On this, however, it has been well remarked, in that very useful publication ‘ The Magazine of Domestic Economy,’ that ‘‘ small families should never encumber themselves with huge and perhaps awkward pieces of even excellent meat, under the idea that it is cheap, because offered below the market-price: nominally it may be so, but in the end it will be found exceedingly dear. There will necessarily be a large portion of bone; and if soups be not wanted, the bones will be made no use of, although they not only weigh heavy, but are paid for at the same price as the prime parts of the meat.” Those who cannot afford to give the high prices demanded for the best joints are recommended to purchase what are termed “ the inferior joints,” provided they be of the best quality : thus, a shoulder of good mutton or veal is far prefer- able to the leg or fillet of an ill-conditioned sheep or calf. Inferior meat will never do credit to the cook, but inferior = 6 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY, Cuap. I. joints may be improved by cookery, and rendered equal to the best. It is the same with fish: a good fresh brill being infinitely preferable to a stale turbot; while one fresh egg will go as far as three which have lot their richness by long keeping. In short, the purchase of ‘“‘ cheap things” will generally be found false economy. Though it is very disagreeable to suspect any one’s honesty, it is yet prudent to welch meat, sugar, &c., when brought in, and to compare the woe with the hci It would be as well if milkmen and bakers were to have tallies with the cook, on which every quart of milk or loaf of bread may be marked, as they will serve to prevent overcharges. The butcher should be ordered to send a ticket with the meat; and the cook, after weighing the meat, should file these tickets, to be examined when the weekly bill is delivered. Scales should be placed . in the kitchen, near the door used by the tradespeople. The knowledge that weights and scales are in use, will operate as a check to any petty fraud which might otherwise be at- tempted. Respecting servants, there are a few things which cannot be too strongly urged: one is, never to retain a cook who is not fond of her occupation; for unless she takes pleasure in her art, she cannot be depended upon for accuracy in the prepa- ration of dishes with which she is well acquainted, and will not easily be induced to learn anything new. She must also possess a natural regard for cleanliness, or all the pains in the world will never render her cleanly: where dirty habits are manifested, dismissal should follow, for in almost every in- stance they will be found incurable. Another point of main importance is her temper ; for if that be not good, she will be disinclined to receive instruction, and, if found fault with, may, out of pique, spoil a dinner; whereas a good-humonred, intel- ligent servant, when acquainted with the habits of the house, anal equal to her common duties, will hardly fail of success when called upon by her mistress to try any of those Bae, which she has not already used. It behoves all persons to be extremely careful whom thes aes Cuap. I. SERVANTS. : t take into their service; to be very minute in investigating the character they receive, and equally cautious and scrupulously just in giving one to others. Were this more generally at- tended to, many evils would be avoided which now result from worthless servants being put into places of trust. It may be fairly asserted that the unfaithfulness of a servant, which is but a milder epithet for robbery or waste, will be laid to the charge of that master or mistress who, knowing or having well-founded suspicions of such faults, is prevailed upon, by false pity or entreaty, to slide a servant into another place; but, on the other hand, it would be unpardonably unjust to refuse to give a fair and candid representation of merits and demerits, on any plea whatever. As to wages, it is better to err on the liberal than on the nigeardly side; for the trifling difference in wages between a good and a bad cook will soon be made up by the former, not only in the comfort but the economy of the table. Ser- vants’ wages should be paid regularly. Pergutsites of all kinds should be strictly forbidden, as not unfrequently leading to pilfering and the corruption of common honesty. Do not allow servants to pay your tradesmen’s bills, but let the tradesmen call for them. Nor should small temptations be laid in the way of young servants, particularly females who have the care of ladies’ dresses and jewellery, as many an honest girl has been led to become a thief through the incautiousness of her mistress. In the hiring of servants it is an excellent plan to agree to increase their wages annually to a fixed sum, at which it should stop; and to recommend that a portion of it should be regu- larly placed in a savings-bank. An incentive will thus be offered to good conduct ; and when the hoard saved up amounts to any considerable sum, the possessor will generally feel more inclined to increase than to lessen it. A kindly feeling of indulgence on the part of a mistress towards her servants in the matter of petty faults, coupled with good-natured attention to their daily comforts, and occasional permission to visit and receive a few of their near friends, 8 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar. 1, rea D I ER NO would go far to create a cordial degree of attachment, which must ever be desirable in a respectable family, and is cheaply purchased by such consideration. Mildness of language will generally be met by respectful language on the part of a servant, and of itself will produce a saving of temper at least to the master or mistress. Due praise will mostly be found a powerful stimulus to good, and in some measure a preventive to bad conduct, on the part of a servant. To young beginners in housekeeping, the following brief hints on domestic economy, in the management of a moderate income, may perhaps prove acceptable. Whenever anything is bought a bill of parcels and a receipt should be required, even if the money be paid at the time of purchase ; and, to avoid mistakes, the goods should be com- pared with these when brought home; if the money is to be paid at a future period, a bill should be sent with the articles and regularly filed. An inventory of furniture, linen, and china should be kept, and the things examined by it twice a-year, or oftener if there be a change of servants; the articles used by servants should be intrusted to their care with a list, as is done with plate. In articles not in common use, such as spare bedding, &c., tickets of parchment, numbered and specifying to what they belong, should be sewed on each; and minor articles in daily use, such as household cloths and kitchen requisites, should be occasion- ally looked to. ‘The best means to preserve blankets from moths is to fold and lay them under the feather-beds that are in use, and shake them occasionally ; when soiled, they should be washed, not scoured. . The most durable sort of linens for sheeting are the Russia, German, or Irish fabrics; a good stock of which, as well as of tabie-linen, should be laid in to avoid the necessity of fre- quent or irregular washing. A proper quantity of hvusehold articles should always be allowed for daily use. Each should also be kept in its proper place, and applied to its proper use. Let all repairs be done as soon as wanted, remembering the old adage of “ a stitch in Cuap. I. HINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 9 a er rr time,” &c.; and never, if possible, defer any necessary house- hold concern beyond the time when it ought to be attended to. In the purchase of glass and crockery-ware, either the most customary patterns should be chosen, in order to secure their being easily matched when broken, or, if a scarce design be adopted, an extra quantity should be bought, to guard against the annoyance of the set being spoiled by breakage, which in the course of time must be expected to happen. There should likewise be plenty of common dishes, that the table-set may not be used for putting away cold meat, &c. The cook should be encouraged to be careful of coals and cinders: there is a new contrivance for sifting the latter with- out dispersing the dust, by means of a covered tin bucket. Small coal wetted makes the strongest fire for the back of the grate, but must remain untouched till it cakes. Cinders lightly wetted give a great degree of heat, and are better than coal for furnaces, ironing-stoves, and ovens. A Store-room is essential for the custody of articles in con- stant use, as well as for others which are only occasionally called for. ‘These should be at hand when wanted, each in separate drawers, or on shelves and pegs, all under the lock and key of the mistress, and never given out to the servants but under her inspection. Pickles and preserves, prepared and purchased sauces, and all sorts of groceries, should be there stored; the spices pounded and corked up in small bottles, sugar broken, and everything in readiness for use. Lemon-peel, thyme, parsley, and all sorts of sweet herbs, should be dried and grated for use in seasons of plenty; the tops of tongues saved, and dried for grating into omelettes, &c. ; and care taken that nothing - be wasted that can be turned to good account. Bread is so heavy an article of expense, that all waste should be guarded against, and having it cut in the room will tend much to prevent it; but, for company, small rolls, placed in the napkin of each guest, are the most convenient, as well as the most elegant. Bread should be kept in earthen pans with covers. B 38 10 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. I, ees Sugar being also an article of considerable expense in all families, the purchase demands particular attention. ‘The cheapest does not go so far as that more refined, and there is a difference even in the degree of sweetness. The close, heavy, and shining white, or loaf-sugar, should be chosen. ‘The best sort of brown has a bright crystalline appearance, as if mixed with salt; and, if feeling coarse when rubbed between the fingers, is better than when more powdery. East India sugars are finer for the price, but not so strong, consequently unfit for wines and sweetmeats, but do well for common purposes. To pound white sugar, rolling it with a bottle and sifting - wastes it less than a mortar. Both soap and tallow candles are improved by keeping, and are best when made in cool weather ; at which time it will be prudent to Jay in a stock of both. They are, indeed, better for being kept eight or ten months, nor will they injure for two years if kept in a cool place; and there are few articles that better deserve care in buying, and allowing a regulated quantity of, according to the size of the family. As to the sort of moulds, ‘ short sixes” are the best for common do- mestic purposes, as, after dinner, workers or readers are better accommodated with light from candles of that size and height than from those called “ long sixes,” which look poor and thin; but “ fours” are preferable to either. Of kitchen candles, those of ten to the pound will be found more service- able than either eight or twelve. Wax, spermaceti, and composite candles ought to be always purchased in quantities of not less than a dozen pounds, on which an allowance is usually made by the chandler. Gas is not much used in private houses, except in offices and passages. Oil-lamps have the advantage of affording a brilliant light and being of elegant appearance, but they are very troublesome in management, as well as expensive. Every year there is a change in lamps, but there has not yet been anything offered to the public which equals for domestic use the Palmer candle-lamp. Soap should be cut into pieces when first brought in, and Cuap. I. HINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 11 kept out of the air two or three weeks; for, if it dries quickly, it will crack, and, when wet, break. Put it on a shelf, leaving a space between each piece, and let it grow hard gradually : thus it will save a full third in the consumption; but, for coarse washing, sofé soap will go further than the hard. Soda, by softening the water, saves a great deal of soap. It should be melted in a large jug or pail of water, some of which pour into the tubs and boiler. The new improvement in soft soap is, if properly used, a saving of nearly half iu quantity, and, though somewhat dearer than the hard, reduces the price of washing considerably. Many good laundresses advise soaping linen into warm water the night previous to washing, as facilitating the opera- tion, and less friction being required. The price of stareh depends upon that of flour; the best will keep good in a dry warm room for some years. Everything should be kept in the place best suited to it, as much waste may thereby be avoided. Great care should be taken of jelly-bags, tapes for collared meats, &¢., which, if not perfectly scalded and kept dry, give an unpleasant flavour when next used. Vegetables will keep best on a stone floor, if the air be excluded; meat, in a cold dry place, where the air is freely admitted; sugar and sweetmeats require a dry place, so does salt ; candles, a cold, but not damp place; dried meats, hams, bacon, and tongues, the same. All sorts of seed for puddings, such as rice, &c., should be close covered, to preserve them from insects; but if kept long that will not be sufficient, unless they be occasionally sifted. Apples and pears should be laid upon very clean and dry straw, to prevent a musty taste ; norshould they be exposed to either light or air; the floor of a dark garret is a good place on which to deposit them; or, what is still better, shelves made by strips of wood, of about 2 inches wide, placed an inch and a half apart, and the apples laid between them. They should be ranged singly in rows, without touching each other, and should be often in- spected, both to wipe them, if damp, and to reject those which 12 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. I. may appear to be getting rotten. The larger sort of pears should be tied up by the stalk. Apples may also be preserved in excellent condition for a long. period by being packed in large barrels with dry sand, but require to be used immedi- ately they are taken out. Coarse nets suspended in the store-room are very useful in preserving the finer kinds of fruit, lemons, &c., which are spoiled if allowed to touch. When lemons and oranges are cheap, a proper quantity should be bought and prepared, both for preserving the juice, and keeping the peel for sweetmeats and grating, especially by those who live in the country, where they cannot always be had; and they are perpetually wanted in cookery. | The best way of scalding fruits, or of boiling vinegar, is in a stone jar, on a hot iron hearth, or by putting the vessel into a saucepan of boiling water, after it has been closely corked, but not quite filled, as the heat may occasion the fruits to swell; but if they diminish after they are cool, the vessel must then be filled. Onions, shalots, and garlic should be hung up, for winter use, in ropes from the ceiling; as should dried parsley, basil, savory, and knotted-marjoram, or London-thyme, and tarra- gon, to be used when herbs are ordered, but with discretion, as they are very pungent. When whites of eggs are used for jelly, or other purposes, pudding, custard, &c., should be made to employ the yolks also; and when only the yolks are wanted, the whites can be made with milk into blanemange. Should they not be wanted for several hours, beat them up with a little water, and put them in a cool place, or they will be hardened and useless. It was a mistake of old to think that the whites made ,cakes and puddings heavy; on the contrary, if beaten long and sepa- rately, they contribute greatly to give lightness, and are also an improvement in paste. = Guap. II. CARVING. 13 CHAPTER II. ON CARVING. Necessity of Practice in Carving— Beer: Round or Aitch-bone — Ribs ~ Sirloin. — VEAL: Fillet — Neck — Loin — Breast — Shoulder — Calf’s Head.— Mutton: Leg — Shoulder — Loin — Neck — Saddle — Haunch. — Fore-quarter of Lamb, — VENISON: Haunch — Neck. — Roebuck — Kid. — Pork — Ham — TonauE— Suckina Pig — HARE — Rabbit — WINGED GAME AND PoULTRY —FIsH. ALTHOUGH carving with ease and elegance is a very neces- sary accomplishment, yet most people are lamentably deficient, not only in the art of dissecting winged game and poultry, but also in the important point of knowing the parts most generally esteemed. Practice only can make a good carver ; but the directions here given, with accompanying plates, will enable any one to disjoint a fowl and avoid the awkwardness of disfiguring a joint. In the first place, whatever is to be carved should be set in a dish sufficiently large for turning it if necessary ; but the dish itself should not be moved from its position, which should be so close before the carver as only to leave room for the plates. The carving-knife should be light, sharp, well- tempered, and of a size proportioned to the joint, strength being less required than address in the manner of using it. Large solid joints, such as ham, fillet of veal, and salt beef, eannot be cut too thin; but mutton, roast pork, and the other joints of veal, should never be served in very delicate slices. A found (buttock) or Aztch-bone of Beef:—Pare off from the upper part a slice from the whole surface, of about 4 an inch thick, and put it aside; then cut thin slices of both lean and fat, in the direction from a to b. The sofé fat, which re- sembles marrow, lies at the back of the aitch-bone, ses below ec, but the firm fat Aitch-bone of Beef. is much better than the soft when eaten cold. 14 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Car; TT, Ribs of Beef—Cut along the whole length of the bone, from end to end, either commencing in the centre or at one side, having the thin end towards you; but if boned and formed into a round, with the fat end doubled into the centre, it must then be cut in the same manner as the round of beef. hes N° Sirloin of Beef.—Cut a SSL Yj fo Nh in the same manner as the i | yy <—— — Mass s Mie — SS ribs, from @ to 6, com- NGS: \ij mencing either at the . Sz = SNS centre’ or the side. “Ihe e under part should be cut , Sirloin of Beef. across the bone, as at. ¢ for the lean, and d for the rich fat; many persons prefer the under to the upper part, the meat being more tender. Fillet of Veal.—Carve it in the same manner. as the round of beef, but 2 the upper slice should be cut somewhat thinner ; as most persons like a little of the brown, a portion of it should be served along with each slice, to- Fillet of Veal. gether with a slice of the fat and stuffing, which is skewered within the flap. Neck of Veal.—Cut across the-ribs, from a to 6; the small hun TTT =>, bones, ec to d, being ‘Mp f ty 7 si ~ fh My | Th) it! y yay, HOF i “i S : | cut off, divided, and SSS SSS SSS ss ; ate ee war ye a served separately, for it is not only a tedious but a vulgar operation to attempt to disjoint the ribs. Neck of Veal. Loin of Veal.—The joint is placed in the dish in the same manner as sirloin of beef, but with a toast put under it. The meat should be cut across the ribs as in the neck, serving a slice of kidney, fat, and toast to each person. Breast of Veal, being very gristly, is not easily divided Cuap. Il. ~ CARVING. 15 into pieces. In order, therefore, to avoid this difiiculty, put your knife at a, about 4 inches from the edge of the thickest part (which is called “the bris- ket”), and cut 2 through it to b,to == separate it from the long ribs ; cut the short bones across, asatdd d, and the long ones as at cee; ask which is chosen, and help accordingly. The remaining scrag part is seldom served at table, but forms an excellent stew when dressed in the French mode. Shoulder of Veal.—Cut it on the under side in the same manner as a shoulder of mutton. Calf’s Head.—Cut slices from a to 6, letting the knife go close to the bone. Many like the eye, at ec, which you must cut out with the point of your knife, and divide in two, along with some of the (0 glutinous _ bits SS which surround it. If the jaw- bone be taken off, there will be found some fine lean, and under the head is the palate, which is reckoned a delicacy. The tongue and brains are dished separately, but should be eaten with the head. Leg of Mutton. —The best part of a lee of mutton, whether boiled or roasted, is midway between the knuckle and the broad end. Begin to help there from the roundest Leg of Mutton. Breast of Veal. PLT TOS AEROS es = = ee Sa a 16 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY.” Cuap. II. and thickest part, by cutting slices, not too thin, from 6 down 4 to ec. This part is the most juicy; but many prefer the knuckle, which, in fine mutton, will be very tender, though dry. ‘There are very fine slices in the back of the leg ; there- fore, if the party be large, turn it up, and cut the broad end ; not across, in the direction you did the other side, but long- wise, from the thick end to the knuckle-bone. To cut out the cramp-bone, which some persons look upon as a delicacy, pass your knife under in the direction of e, and it will be found between that and d. Shoulder of Mutton, though commonly looked upon as a very homely joint, is by many preferred to the leg, as there is much variety of flavour, as well as texture, in both the upper and under parts. The figure represents it laid in the dish, as always served, with its back uppermost. Cut through it from a down to the blade-bone at 6; afterwards slice it along each side of the blade-bone from c¢ ¢ to b. The prime part of the fat lies on the outer edge, and is to be cut in thin slices in the direction of d. The under part, as here represented, con- tains many favourite pieces of different sorts, as, crosswise, in slices, gry, near the shank-bone at 6 ; and, lengthwise, in broad pieces, at the further end =~ C a; as well as in the middle and sides in the manner designated at e and d. Should it be intended to reserve a portion of the joint to be eaten cold, the under part should be first served, both because it eats better hot than cold, and because the upper remaining part will appear more sightly when again brought to table. - ~ — \) Nn ek are ‘ LE, fff a pCi” i o Whose bse ) lan aneh Loin of Mutton.—Cut the joints into chops and serve them separately ; or cut slices the whole length of the loin; or run Cuar. I. CARVING. 17 the knife along the chine-bone, and then slice it, the fat and lean together, as shown in the cut of the saddle, below. Neck of Mutton.—Should be prepared for table as follows :— Cut off the scrag; have the chine-bone carefully sawn off, and also the top of the long bones (about 14 inch), and the thin part turned under; carve in the direction of the bones. Saddle of Mutton.—Cut in long and rather thin slices from the tail to the end, beginning at each side close to the back. bone, from a to b ee Sake slices of fat s Les P| from ec to d3 or at Wee ae P along the bonewhich “ divides thetwo loins, so as to loosen from it the whole of the meat from that side, which you then cut crosswise, thus giv- Se ing with each slice Saddle of Mutton. both fat and lean. The tail end should be divided and turned round the kidneys, or, if preferred, a bunch of vegetable flowers skewered on the tail end. Haunch of Mutton.—A haunch is the leg and part of the loin, and is cut in the same manner as a haunch of venison. Fore- Quarter of Lamb.—Pass the knife under the shoulder in the direction of a, c, 6, d, so as to separate it from the ribs without cutting the meat too much off the bones. A Seville orange or lemon should then be divided, the halves sprinkle with salt and pepper, and the juice squeezed over the under part. A little cold butter is then put between both parts; this is now considered “old fashioned,” and is seldom done. Ifthe party is small, remove the shoulder to a separate dish. Divide the ribs from d to e, and then = serve the neck f/f, Fore-quarter of Lamb. and breast g, as may be chosen. Haunch of Venison—Have the joint lengthwise before 18 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. IT. you, the knuckle being the furthest point. Cut from a to 6, but be careful not to let out the gravy; then eut from a down to d. The knife should slope in making the first ae cut, and then Haunch of Venison. the whole of the gravy will be received in the well. The greater part of the fat, which is the favourite portion, will be found at the left side, and care should be taken to serve some with each slice. 14 ' WWE WG L BSA / 1g MAMET pee ly Ly oe Neck of Venison.—Cut across the ribs diagonally as in the saddle of mutton ; or in slices the whole length of the neck. The first method is equally good, and much more economical. Reebuch.— e 24 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap, HH, ed. The upper or thick parts are the firmest, and the lower the most fat. Turbot, Brill, John-dory, Plaice, and all other kinds of flat-fish of a large size.—Cut in flat pieces from the centre to Turbot. the fin, without removing the bone: but those of a smaller kind, as soles, are usually cut quite across, along with the bone; and flounders are served whole. ‘The fin of the turbot is considered a great delicacy, and therefore should be always served along with the thicker portions of the fish. ! Cod’s Head and Shoulders.—Take off the slice, or portion of it, quite down to the bone in the direction a, 6, and with Cod’s Head and Shoulders. each slice of fish give a piece of the sound, which lies under- neath the backbone, and lines it, and which may be got by passing the trowel underneath the line at e; and also a piece of the liver, which is served separately, and which most people Cain CARVING. 26 like. The gelatinous parts lie about the jawbones, and the firm parts within the head. Some persons are fond of the palate, and others of the tongue, which likewise may be got by putting a spoon into the mouth, and the eye scooped out of the head; it therefore requires a little practice to ascertain fhose epicurean bits which good judges prefer. Hladdock.—Carve like cod, but the head is worthless, while that of carp is always thought the nicest part, and therefore generally divided and served separately. If the fish is small, it is divided lengthwise from the head to the tail like mackerel : when large, it is cut across the body in the same manner as pike, trout, and most fresh-water fish. Mackerel are commonly served up head to tail, and a slice cut lengthwise from the bone. Mackerel. Herrings, pilchards, smelts, and other small fry, are alway served up whole; whitings, if fried, are turned round from the tail to the head, through which it is fastened; they should be small and not divided. Pike should be slit along the back and belly, and each slice gently drawn down- wards ; by which there will be fewer bones given. In helping curry the rice should be put upon the plate first, and the curry laid upon it. Whiting. Sy ae 26 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. ~ Cuap. Il. a et CHAPTER III. FOOD AND COOKERY. «¢ Plain living? not the most wholesome — The Science of Cooking — Diet and Digestion — Advantage of Variety in Food— Hints on Stewing — On Roasting — On Boiling —On Broiling—On Frying — Suet — The Art of Seasoning — Maxims for Cooks— Boning, Larding, and Braising —- Glazing — Forcing — Blanching —To keep Meat hot — Hot Closet. THE commonly received idea, that what goes under the deno- mination of “ good plain living ”—that is, joints of meat, roast or boiled—is best suited to all constitutions, has been proved to be a fallacy. Many persons can bear testimony to the truth of Dr. Kitchener’s remark, that elaborate culinary processes are frequently necessary in order to prepare food for the diges- tive organs, which are but too frequently taxed beyond their power. Indeed, it may be truly said that many persons actually lose their lives by over-indulgence in food rendered indigestible by being badly cooked. Until a comparatively late period the art of cookery was -almost in a state of infancy, for our ancestors were, with few exceptions, content with the most simple, or rather imperfect, preparation of their food, and “ made dishes” were very little known. Of late years, however, it has gradually risen to a branch of science, founded on practical experience, combined with a knowledge of chemistry; and the numerous works published on its improvement, both in this country and on the Continent, have brought it to a degree of perfection which its early professors never expected to attain. ‘This remark applies, however, rather more to the cookery of animal than of vegetable food; for, in England, vegetables are chiefly used as an accompaniment to meat, while—as will be hereafter shown -—many delicacies of the kitchen-garden may, if properly dressed, be rendered very palatable dishes to be eaten alone. It is our intention to endeavour to correct the prejudice in favour of a family joint—by showing that the same quantity of meat, if dressed in different ways, though still retaining a certain degree of simplicity, will be more pleasant to the Cuap. ITI. FOOD AND COOKERY. 27 palate, more healthful, and quite as economical, if brought to the table as two or three dishes instead of one. In French cookery, those substances which are not intended to be broiled or roasted, are usually stewed for several hours at a temperature below the boiling-point ; by which means the most refractory articles, whether of animal or vegetable origin, are more or less reduced toa state of pulp, and admirably adapted for the further action of the stomach. In the common cookery of this country, on the contrary, articles are usually put at once into a large quantity of water, and submitted, without care or attention, to the boiling temperature: the consequence of which is, that most animal substances, when taken out, are harder and more indigestible than in the natural state. DIET AND DIGESTION. From Dr. Beaumont’s Tables it appears that the following articles are converted into chyle, i.e. digested, in the times indicated :— = H. M. ae i HS Khice, boiled soit =. . =. .1 0 | Tripe and Pigs’ Feet . . .1 90 Apples, sweet andripe . .+1 30 | Venison . 1 35 wago, boiled . . . 1 45 | Oysters, undressed, and Egos, Tapioca, Barley, stale rend, raw Pe ete Baltes. SU) Cabbage with Vinegar, raw, Turkey and Goose. .« » « 2 30 boiled Milk and Bread and Eggs, soft boiled; Beef and Mie -golday s,s 2} Mutton, roasted or boiled . 3 0 Potatoes, roasted, and Parsnips, Boiled Pork, stewed Oysters, ieee 8. . 2 80 Eggs, hard-boiled or fried . 3 30 Baked Custard . . « «245 | Domestic Fowls . . 4 0 Apple Dumpling . . . 3 0 | Wild Fowls; Pork, salted and Bread Corn, baked, and Car boiled ; suas Sled 4 30 rots, boiled . ae 3°15) |} Veal, roasted ; Pork, and ied Potatoes and Turnips boiled ; Bestita.’ ced her cascadochoa,> anal} f Butter and Cheese. . . 3 30 The following table will also give the nutriment contained in various articles of food :— | Bread—100 lbs. weight is found to contain 80 lbs. of nutriment. Meat 9 ” ” 35 FP) ” Beans sy, is - 92 - ” Peas 2” ” ” 93 ” ” Greens and turnips re os 8 ” 9 Carrots 2 2 39 14 ” ” Potatoes _,, i 3 25 ” ” Rice 9 99 ” 75 9 39 When the powers of the stomach are weak, a hard and ¢2 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Ouap. III. crude English diet is sure to produce discomfort by promoting acidity ; while the very same articles, when divided, and well cooked upon French principles, or rather the principles of cormmon sense, can be taken with impunity, and easily digested. There are only a few persons—with the exception perhaps of those who take violent exercise, or work hard in the open air—who can dine heartily upon solid food without suffering from its effects. When people sit down to table with a good appetite, it is difficult to persuade them to eat only half the quantity for which they feel disposed; but it is very certain that, in order to escape the horrors of indigestion, plain roast. or boiled meat should be very sparingly consumed. Partly upon the erroneous supposition that it is the most wholesome species of food, and partly to avoid the trouble of providing anything else, a whole family, however various their consti- tutions may be, are seated at table before a single joint, to take their chance of suffering from the repletion which even a small portion may occasion to a delicate person, who could have partaken of three or four judiciously-dressed dishes with- out sustaining the slightest inconvenience. ‘The stomach, in fact, never performs its duties so effectually as when it acts upon food composed of much variety. Indeed, the united testimony of high medical authority proves that a variety of well-dressed food is more easy of digestion, and consequently more salutary, than when the meal is confined to one sort of solid meat. Foreigners are so well aware of this that they never dine on a single dish. They always commence the meal with soup, or rather weak potage, followed by some small dishes of meat and vegetables, thoroughly done, and eaten separately ; and although they usually eat full as much as the English, yet their dinner sits light upon the stomach, without any com- plaint of that drowsy sense of indigestion of which we hear so much in England that our newspapers are filled with adver- tisements for its cure. _ In England, cookery in small respectable families, where it 1S necessary to study economy, has also to contend with a prejudice concerning the vulgarity of certain viands; many portions of an animal, which in France are in great esteem, being rejected in this country upon very insufficient grounds. The very coarsest joints may be so refined in the culinary Cuap. III. FOOD AND COOKERY. 29 process as to retain nothing offensive either to the eye or the palate, while the vulgarity must consist in the manner in which the viands are served, and not in the viands themselves. It is the province of the cook to render unsightly objects pleasing; and thus many things may be brought to table in disguise, which would not be admissible in their original forms. A good housekeeper will never offer the first essay of her cook to her company : the dish should be tried by the family party, and not placed before guests until practice has rendered it perfect. By this means the chances of failure are in a great measure avoided; and, by not undertaking more than can be accomplished, success may be contemplated with some degree of confidence. Indeed, if any of the following receipts are put into the hands of an intelligent woman, she will find no difficulty in carrying them completely into effect. The foundation of all good cookery consists in preparing the mieat so as to render it tender in substance, without extracting from it those juices which constitute its true flavour; in doing this, the main point in the art of making those soups, sauces, and made dishes of every sort, which now form so large a portion of every well-ordered dinner, as well, also, as in cooking many of the plain family joints—is boiling, or rather stewing, which ought always to be performed over a slow fire. There is, in fact, no error so common among English cooks as that of boiling meat over a strong fire, which renders large joints hard and partly tasteless; while, if simmered during nearly double the time, with less than half the quantity of fuel and water, and never allowed to “boil up,” the meat, without being too much done, will be found both pliant to the tooth and savoury to the palate. For instance. The common and almost universal dish throughout France is a large piece of plainly-boiled fresh beef, from which the soup—or “ potage,’” as it is there called —has been partly made. It is separately served up as “ bouilli,” accompanied by strong gravy, and minced vege- tables, or stewed cabbage. Now this, as dressed in the French mode, is always delicate both in fibre and flavour ; while, in the English manner of boiling it, it is generally hard and insipid. The reason of which, as explained by that celebrated cook, Caréme, who superintended the kitchen of George IV., is this :—‘‘ The meat, instead of being put down to boil, as in our method, is there put in the pot with the usual © 30 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Czar. II. © quantity of cold water, and placed at the corner of the fire- place, where, slowly becoming hot, the heat gradually swells the muscular fibres of the beef, dissolving the gelatinous sub- stances therein contained, and disengaging that portion which chemists term ‘osmazome,’ and which imparts savour to the flesh —thus both rendering the meat tender and palatable, and the broth relishing and nutritive; whilst, on the contrary, if the pot be inconsiderately put upon too quick a fire, the boil- ing is precipitated, the fibre coagulates and hardens, the osmazome is hindered from disengaging itself, and thus nothing is obtained but a piece of tough meat, and a broth without taste or succulence.” To stew.—This wholesome and economical mode of cookery - is not so well understood nor profited by in England as on the Continent. So very small a quantity of fuel is wanted to sustain the gentle heat which it requires, that this alone should recommend it to the careful housekeeper; but, if properly attended to, meat stewed gently in close-shutting vessels is in every respect equal, if not superior, to that which is roasted ; but it must be stmmered only, and in the gentlest manner. On the subject of stewing meat the following directions may be advantageously adopted :—‘‘ Take a piece of boiling-beef, with some fat to it, and a little seasoning, but without water, gravy, or liquid of any sort. Put it in an earthen jug closely covered, and place that within a large iron or tin pot filled with cold water, and lay it so near the fire as to keep a gentle simmer, without letting it boil. It will require several hours, according to the weight of the meat, which should be stewed until quite tender. It loses nothing, and will yield a large quantity of the richest gravy, as retaining’ the whole of its juice, and is decidedly the best mode of dressing that universal French dish beuf-bouilli.” * Yo roast in perfection is not only a most difficult but a most essential branch of cookery, and can only be acquired by prac- tice, though it consists in simply dressing the joint thoroughly, without drying up any portion of its juices. If this, however, be not strictly attended to, the meat will be spoiled, and the error cannot be rectified. _ A brisk, but not too strong, fire should be made up in good time, and care taken that it is sufficiently wide to take in the * Transactions of the Royal Society of Agriculture, vol. iii. p, 88. ee es Cuap., III. FOOD AND COOKERY. 31 joint, leaving two or three inches to spare at each end, and that it is of equal strength throughout. The fat should be protected by covering it with paper, tied on with twine. ‘The meat should not be put very near the fire at first, or the out- side will become scorched, dry, and hard, while the inside will be underdone; but it should be put gradually nearer to the fire when about warmed through, or it will become soddened and the screen should be placed behind it from the commence- ment. ‘The more the meat is basted the better it will be when dressed, and the cook should not be sparing of her trouble in this respect. She should remove the paper a short time before sending the joint to table, sprinkling it with salt, and dredging it lightly with flour, in order to give it a savoury brown ap- pearance; but salt should not be put to it before it is nearly dressed, as it would tend to draw out the gravy. Meat which has been fresh killed will take a longer time to: roast than that which has been kept any time; and in warm weather twenty minutes less time should be allowed for the roasting of a good-sized joint than when the weather is cold. Time, distance, basting often, and a clear fire of a proper size for what is required, are the chief points that a good cook should attend to in roasting. In preparing meat for roasting by smoke-jack, the cook must be careful that the spit be wiped before it is used, and also when withdrawn from the meat, or its mark will appear in a black stain. She must avoid running the spit through the prime parts.*. In some joints, as necks, it may enter two bones from the end, run up the back until it comes to nearly the other end, and the prime of the meat will not be pierced. Leaden skewers of different weights should be in readiness ; for want of which unskilful servants are often at a loss at the time of spitting. Cradle-spits answer best; they may be bought of different sizes. ‘The joints of all necks and loins should be nicked before they are dressed. A piece of writing- paper, cut as a frill, should be twisted round the bone at the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of lamb, mutton, or venison, when roasted, before it is sent to table. After the cook has taken up the roast meat, she should pour the fat from the dripping-pan into a basin previously wetted with cold water. The next day she should scrape off the fine “ These rules are equally applicable to the hook used in the bottle-jack. 32 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cxuap. III. meat-jelly which will be found adhering to the under part, and put it into a suitable vessel for present use, as an assistant to gravies. The dripping should then be melted and strained. If required to be kept long, it should be strained into cold water, and taken off when cold in cakes, and these cakes laid in a dry place, between sheets of writing-paper. . So much depends upon the taste of parties in the mode of over or under dressing, that it is difficult to say how long a . joint of meat of a certain size should be roasted; but, pre- suming that a good fire is kept up, and that the meat is intended to be well done, a piece of beef—say of 12 to 15 lbs. weight—should, in winter, be properly roasted in from 3 to 3% hours. The common rule is, + of an hour to each lb.; but a thick joint—such, for instance, as a sirloin of beef or leg of mutton—will require rather more time than the ribs or shoulder ; and meat that has been hung for some days requires less roasting than that which has been newly killed; mutton, somewhat less than beef; but veal, pork, and all sorts of white meat, should be so thoroughly roasted as not to show any appearance of red. gravy. Some cooks recommend a method of roasting joints of meat in a slow manner, before a large fire, and placing them ata much greater distance from the fire than in the common way ; on the principle, as they say, ‘ that it renders the meat more tender, and better retains the gravy.” This, however, we cannot admit; for it does not retain more of the gravy, and it makes the flesh soft and insipid or flabby, instead of imparting tu it that degree of crispness which is caused by the ordinary mode. It also has the further disadvantage of requiring twice the usual time, and occasioning double the expenditure of coals. To boil.— All meat for boiling should be entirely covéred with cold water, and placed on a moderate fire, the scum being carefully taken off as it rises, which will be in general a few minutes before it boils. This should be done with great care, as, if neglected, the scum will sink and adhere to the joint, giving it a very disagreeable appearance. ‘The kettle should be kept covered. We cannot too strongly urge upon a cook the great advantage of gentle simmering over the usual fast boiling of meat, by which the outside is hardened and de- prived of its juices before the inside is half done. Pickled or salted meat requires longer boiling than that Cuap. III. FOOD AND COOKERY. 33 which is fresh. A fish-plate, or some wooden skewers, should be put under a large joint to prevent its sticking to the bottom of the boiler. To broii.i—A cinder-fire, or one partly made of coke and charcoal, clear of all appearance of smoke, is indispensable ; and chops, steaks, or cutlets of all kinds—if intended to be eaten in their plain state— should be dressed after every other dish is ready, and sent up to table last, so as to secure their being hot: thus it may be observed that in “ steak-dinners ”’ the second course is always the best—as’ being dressed while the first is being eaten. ‘The gridiron should be kept so clean as to be nearly polished, and should be always warmed before the meat is put upon it, as well as greased to prevent the steak from being burned. A fork should never be used in turning them, but a pair of steak-tongs. To fry.—The principle of this art is “ to scorch something solid in oil or fat.” To do this it is necessary that the fat be in such condition as to scorch whatever is put into it; for if the substance fried does not burn, it must soak and become greasy. After the substance is immersed in the fat the pan may be removed a little off the fire, as otherwise the outside will become black before the inside is done. When fried things are required to look particularly well, they should be done twice over with egg and crumbs. Bread that is not stale enough to grate quite fine will not look well. The fat you fry in must always be boiling-hot when the meat is put in, and kept so till finished; a small quantity never fries well. Suet.— When a sirloin of beef, or a loin of veal or mutton, is brought in, part of the suet may be cut off for puddings, or to clarify. If there be more suet than will be used while fresh, throw it into pickle, made in the proportion of ¢ lb. of salt to a quart of cold water, and it will be good for any use when soaked in cold water a little. Jf the weather permit, meat is much improved by hanging a day before it is salted. Boiling in a well-floured cloth will make meat white. Cloths for this purpose should be carefully washed, and boiled in clean water between each using, and not suffered to hang in a damp place, which would give a bad flavour to the meat. The same applies to tapes and pudding-cloths. All kitchen c3 34 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. III. CE utensils should be kept in the nicest order, and in a conspi- cuous part of the offices. : The more soups or broth are skimmed, the better and clearer they will be. In making these, as well as in boiling meat, particular care must be taken to take the scum off the moment before the water boils, otherwise the foulness will be dispersed over the meat. Vegetables should never be dressed with meat, except car- rots or parsnips with boiled beef. Full-grown meats do not require so much dressing as young ; not that they are sooner done, but they can be eaten with the gravy more in. Hashes and Minces should never boil, as their doing so makes the meat hard. The gravy should be thoroughly made before the meat is put in. Dripping, or clarified suet, will serve as well as butter for basting everything except fowls and game; for kitchen pies nothing else should be used. Mutton-dripping cannot, however, be used in cookery, as it is apt to communicate to everything a taste of tallow. Seasoning.—The art of seasoning properly is a difficult one, which can only be acquired by experience. ‘The cook tastes her preparations instead of employing the scales; and, where the quantities are indefinite, it is impossible to adjust the exact proportions of spice or other condiments which it will be necessary to add in order to give the proper flavour : the great art being so to blend the ingredients that one shall not predominate over the other. In the following receipts, though the quantities of each ingredient may be as accurately directed as possible, yet much must be left to the discretion of the person who uses them. The different tastes of people require more or less of the flavour of spices, salt, garlic, butter, &c., which can never be ordered by general rules. A servant anxious to please will take all possible pains to ascertain the tastes of those she serves, and will be guided by that in the preparation of her dishes, though it may be opposed to her previous practice. The proper articles should be at hand, and she must propor- tion them until the true zest be obtained, and a variety of flavour be given to the different dishes. A very general error among English cooks is the too profuse use of salt and Cuap. IIT. FOOD AND COOKERY. 30 pepper, by which ragofits and soups are very frequently spoiled; for although some portion of both must be put in at first, to counteract the rawness which would otherwise prevail, as most spices require to be submitted to the action of fire in order to bring out their true flavour, yet either can be easily added by those partakers of the dish who prefer more of one or the other; and perhaps the only dishes that should be highly seasoned are meat-pies and curries. As a general rule, it may be said that no mixture should be made without a small portion of salt; thus, in the flour for pastry, a certain quantity, not exceeding a saltspoonful, will be necessary ; but the cook must be careful not to exceed the just limit. If sprinkled upon meat which is to be fried or broiled, it renders it hard. Cayenne pepper is in general so unsparingly thrown into soups of almost every description, that: persons of a delicate appetite can seldom eat them. Chili vinegar imparts both the heat of cayenne and the flavour of acid, and, if used with moderation, forms a good condiment; but no species of sauce, or artificial zest, should supersede that of the meat. Nor should they, if liquid, be used until after the meat has been stewed: even wine, if put into soup, should not be added until nearly the last thing, when a wineglassful will go as far in flavouring as a pint if put in at the commencement: if the cook has not a nice palate, a cupful of the soup should be presented to her mistress to decide upon the necessary addi- tional ingredients. But all condiments of a solid nature— such as whole peppers, ginger, mace, and cinnamon, or savoury herbs, truffles, and mushrooms—require the action of fire to draw out their flavour: the cook, therefore, must learn by experience the quantity of each which may be necessary. She should never forget that the zest imparted to both soups and sauces mainly arises from a judicious mixture of the articles with which they are seasoned: a well-regulated palate in their choice, and a delicate hand in their distribution, are therefore essential in a good cook. The following maxims for cooks are worthy of ms re- membered :— 1, Look clean; be careful and nice in work, so that those who have to eat might look on. 2. Never forget, while preparing a dish, that what you pro- ° . 36 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. ITI, a a duce has presently to be eaten, relished, or condemned, to your honour or to your discredit. 3. Whatever can be tasted during the process of preparation must be flavoured by the judgment of the palate. Whatever may not be tasted before serving must be done strictly and invariably by rule. ) . 4, Though a rule has been long established, there is no reason why improvement or advantageous change should not be made. The combinations and changes in cookery by means of the same materials are endless, therefore always think. 5. Cooks must please the palate; but it is necessary they should likewise suit the stomach; want of skill ultimately brings upon them reproach instead of praise. 6. A judicious use of salt will do wonders for the credit of a cook. The flavours which result from it cannot be traced to a cause; the cook has therefore the whole of the credit— the condiment none. The same applies to the use of condi- ments and flavours in general; whenever a particular taste predominates, the merit is attributed to the ingredient, and not to the cook. 7. The cook who attends to the niceties of the art is a superior servant ; but if ignorant or neglectful, is worthless. There are three arts very essential in good cooking; these are boning, larding, and braising. They are not difficult to acquire, so that there is little or no excuse for their neglect in the kitchens of private families; but we may truly assert that not one cook in a hundred knows anything of boning, and very few of even the simple operation of larding; if, therefore, the family resides in town, the better way is always to have these matters performed by the poulterer; for if a joint of meat— as, for instance, a shoulder of mutton—is to be boned, the butcher cannot do it so well. Boning, besides its other advantages, is particularly recom- mended, on account of its economy; the bones of turkeys, fowls, hares, &c., assisting to make gravy, while they are nearly useless when left in the bodies of the animals. Hares should always be boned, for the sake of the improvement in their appearance, and being so much more easily carved. In the hiring of a cook by persons resident in the country, it is therefore essential to ascertain whether she is mistress of this * Cuap. III. FOOD AND COOKERY. 37 art; for as to teaching her by printed directions, it would be time thrown away, and she can only acquire it by practice ; but it may be learned by a few lessons from the poulterer. Larding should be neatly done to be ornamental ; but nearly the same effect, with respect to flavour, may be produced by raising the skin and laying a slice of fat bacon beneath it; and indeed, although it does not improve the appearance, yet if the flesh be dry—as in a hare—it has a better effect upon the meat. Larding is not only commonly employed on poultry and game, but so frequently on many other dishes also, that every cook ought to be acquainted with the mode of perform- ing it. It is done by cutting the firmest part of the bacon-fat into small strips, proportioned in length and thickness to the size of the article to be larded; and these “ lardoons,” as they are called, are inserted, in rows, into punctures made in the surface of the flesh, by a larding-needle, in one end of which the bacon is held. It is, in fact, very simple, requiring only practice and perseverance to become an adept. To lard Meat, Fouls, pactirends, cha —Have ready larding- needles of different sizes, according to the article to be done ; cut slices of bacon into bits of a proper length, quite smooth, and put into a larding-needle, with which pierce the skin and a very little of the meat, leaving the bacon in, and the two ends of equal length outwards. Lard in rows at the distance you think fit. To braise.— Put the meat to be, braised into a stewpan, and cover it ™ with thick slices of fat bacon; then lay round it six or eight onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, some celery, and, if to be brown, some thick slices of carrots, and any trimmings of fresh meat-bones, with a pint and a half of water, or the same quantity of stock (directions for which will be found under the head of Soups and G'ravies), according to what the meat is, and add seasoning. Cover the pan close, and set it over a slow The same, with Lardoon inserted. Braising Pot. _ 38 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cnap. UL stove; it will require two or three hours, according to its size and quality. Then strain the gravy; keep the meat quite hot; take the fat off by plunging the basin into cold water, which will cause the fat to coagulate ; and boil it as quickly as you can till it thickens. If, however, you wish the gravy to adhere to the meat, it must be still further boiled until it is sufficiently reduced. Many persons have been deterred from attempting this ex- cellent method of cooking on account of the expensive way usually prescribed. Should there be nothing else at hand, the meat or fowl to be braised may be put into a stewpan, with about an ounce of fresh butter, or a larger quantity according to the size, and a teacupful of water. Stir these together for a short time, and shake the pan occasionally until the juices of the meat or poultry afford sufficient gravy; put in an onion and a bunch of sweet herbs, with a little pepper or other seasoning, and a small quantity of salt. The meat must be turned several times during the period of braising, as the English apparatus does not often admit of fire being placed on the top of the stewpan. To glaze.—Make a good beef stock as usual; when cold, remove the sediment and fat. Put it over a quick fire; boit Glazing Pot. Glazing Brush. fast; when well reduced, change it into a smaller stewpar, and continue boiling until it is reduced to the consistence of thin paste ; pour it into a jar; it should be of a bright brown. When required for use, put it in a stewpan, which place in boiling water, and when thoroughly heated, apply it by means of a brush to glaze chickens, tongues, and beef. Lo force Fowls, $e.—Stuff them with forcemeat, either Cie | CULINARY UTENSILS. 39 between the skin and the flesh; or, the breast-bone being raised, the cavity is filled up; or, the breast-bone being taken out, the body is filled. Tongues, palates, &c., are said to be blanched, when, after long boiling, the skin can be peeled off; palates will become thicker by being put into cold water afterwards. To keep meat hot.——Take it up when done; set the dish over a pan of boiling water, or in the bain-marie (as described in the next Chapter); put a deep tin cover over the meat so as not to touch it, and then throw a cloth over that. This way dries the gravy less than hot hearths of iron. The most effectual way of all is in a warm closet, which is now made so as to be heated by the steam from the boiler attached to most kitchen ranges. CHAPTER IV. ON CULINARY UTENSILS. Cradle-spit — Salamander — Bottle Jack — Digesters — Bain-Marie — Range — Steam Fireplace — Hot Closet — Weights and Measures. Besiprs those improved ranges which are furnished with ovens, boilers, stewing-stoves, and hot-plates, every kitchen- grate should be encircled by a large fender and a standard or broad plate of iron for the support of small articles to be kept warm, and supplied with forks and hooks, fixed to it, for the toasting of bread or bacon, and the occasional dressing of a mutton-chop. A Cradle-spit has the advantage of enclosing any very delicate matter to be roasted, without piercing the flesh, but is seldom used but where there is a smoke-jack. Cradle-spit. Salamander.—This instrument is made _red-hot, and is 40 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. IV, used in browning anything wantiug in colour; but a hot fire- shovel will answer the same purpose : be eee Salamander. The well-known Bottle Jack, which is moved by springs wound up like a watch, is very useful for the roasting of poultry or small joints, which are done before the fire in a shorter time than when spitted in the ordinary way.’ A nearly similar machine, also moved by self-acting springs, has been brought forward as an improvement, as it can act on two spits at the same time. ‘These are both suited to moderate-sized fireplaces; but they are thought to have this objection—that confining the air has partly the effect of baking the meat while it is roasting; and thus, to the palate of a connoisseur, destroys much of that savoury flavour which the meat acquires ’ when roasted by the smoke-jack ; but this remark applies only B le i 4 Bottle Jack. Improved Spring Jack and Roaster. to beef and mutton, as it does not thus affect either white meat or poultry. Cuap. LV. CULINARY UTENSILS. 4] Digesters.— Various steam-kettles, known to cooks as “ con- jurers,” ought to be kept in every kitchen, and used at intervals when the fire is not otherwise engaged. Into one of these a digester should be placed, containing a quantity of water just sufficient to cover the ingredients to be acted upon ; into it are to be put all the scraps of meat which are usually thrown away, together with the bones of all the meat daily dressed and consumed—from the bones of a leg of mutton to that of a mutton-chop, and those of fowls, whether left upon a dish or a plate. Fastidious ladies will probably be shocked at the idea of again bringing such matters to table, but they should recollect that the bones are only scraped with a knife. Bones may be purchased from the butchers for a few farthings per pound; but if they are cleaned, and trimmed, and steamed in the digester, the marrow and sinews of the bones produce in a few days a strong and wholesome soup. Indeed, economical persons purchase bones of the butcher, and by stewing them many hours procure an excellent stock ; and families to whom expense is an object will do well to make the experiment. Conjurers, though different in appearance, yet act upon the same principle by means of steam, and will heat any liquid in a few minutes ; but being made of tin, they are not so effectual as Papin’s Digester, which is formed of iron, and of such power as to extract strong jelly from the bones of meat, and ‘to reduce “ those of small, young fowls to a pulp.” The cut contains two figures; both, however, on the same No, 1. Digesters. No, 2. principle, and made of cast-iron; No. 1 being of the smaller * 42 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cxuap. IV. size, and No. 2 for any quantity from half a gallon upwards ; the price being according to the size. The great importance and utility of this valuable utensil, in producing a larger quantity of wholesome and nourishing food by a much cheaper method than has ever been hitherto ob- tained, cannot be too earnestly recommended to those who make economy an object of their attention. The chief, and indeed the only thing necessary to be done, is to direct a proper mode of using it to most advantage, and this mode is both simple and easy. Care must be taken, in filling the digester, to leave room enough for the steam to pass off through the valve at the top of the cover. This may be done by filling the digester only three parts full. It must then be placed near a slow fire, so as only to simmer, for the space of eight or ten hours, as more heat injures the quality. After this has been done, the soup is to be strained through a hair sieve or colander, in order to separate any bits of bones. The soup is then to be again put into the digester; and, after whatever vegetables and seasoning are thought necessary are added, the whole is to be well boiled together for an hour or two, and it will be then fit for immediate use. N.B. In putting on the lid of the digester, care should be taken that a mark X, on the lid, is opposite to a similar mark X on the digester. The bain-marie is a very shallow cistern placed on a hot hearth, and generally made ~ of copper, for containing hot water to keep soups and sauces warm, but may occa- sionally be used for keeping eM : dishes warm. It is the best = = mode of keeping anything hot which has-been suffi- ciently dressed, but not ready to be sent to table ; so the dish, if covered and placed in it, may be thus kept perfectly warm, without being scorched as it would be if put before the fire. Anything that is to be warmed and sent to table a second time should, in like manner, be put into a basin or jar, placed in hot water, which is not permitted to come to the boiling- point. If allowed to boil, the meat will harden, or the sauce MARKETING. 55 the bloody vein in the shoulder looks blue, or of a bright red, it is newly killed ; but any other colour shows it to be stale. The other parts should be dry and white; if clammy or spotted, the meat is stale and bad. The kidney turns first, and the suet will not then be firm. If the calf is older than eight or ten weeks, the flesh becomes coarse. It will of course be somewhat cheaper, and may, to some palates, be found equally good in flavour, but not so delicate either in the colour or the texture of the flesh. Mutton.—W ether mutton is the only sort for a connoisseur’s table, and may be known by a knob of fat on the upper part of the leg, where, in ewe mutton, is the udder. The meat should be of a dark colour, and well covered with fat; and in the loin the lean should appear mottled. The flesh of the ewe is paler, and the texture finer, but neither the meat nor gravy so well flavoured as that of the wether, though a “ maiden ewe,” when it can be got, is considered particularly fine. If you wish to have a good haunch, choose one of small size and moderately fat, looking at the same time to the closeness of the grain and the whiteness of the fat; but more particularly see that the flesh is dark-coloured, that being a proof of age, and the older mutton is, the better. In boiled mutton this is not of so much importance as in roast. Lamb.—There are two sorts: “house-lamb,” which is reared under cover upon ewe’s milk, and comes into season, as a great delicacy, at Christmas; and “ grass-lamb” at Easter, continuing in season during the whole of the summer, but losing much of its nicety of flavour after it reaches 4 months old. It ought therefore to be small and white in appearance, and well covered with fat: the younger the more delicate. Pork.—The rind should be thin, the fat very firm, and the lean white: the principal point to be observed is the firmness of the fat. If the rind is tough, thick, and cannot easily be impressed. by the finger, it is old. Pigs that are short in the legs and bodies, and have thick necks, and not lone heads and ears, are always to be preferred. When fresh, the flesh will be smooth and dry; if clammy, it is tainted. What is called “measly pork” is very unwholesome, aud may be known by the fat being full of kernels. Pork fed at distilleries does not auswer for curing in any way, the fat being spongy. Dairy- pork is the best. EG MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. VI. Porkers from 8 to 4 months old are the most delicate, and 6 months is the latest age at which they should be killed as such. Bacon.—lf the rind be thin, the fat firm and of a reddish tinge, the lean tender, of a good colour, and adhering to the bone, you may conclude it is good and not old. If there are yellow streaks in it, it is rusty. Hams.—Stick a sharp knife under the bone, and also up to the knuckle. If it comes out with a pleasant smell, the ham -is good; but do not buy it if the knife has a bad scent. Hams short in the hock are best; nor should long-legged pigs be chosen for any purpose. Brawn.—The horny part of the young brawn will feel moderately tender, and the flavour will be better than the old, the rind of which will be hard. : Venison.—The fat should be clear, bright, and thick; and if the cleft of the haunch be smooth and elose, it is young, but if the cleft is close and tough, it is old. To judge of its sweetness, run a very sharp narrow knife into the shoulder or haunch, and you will know by the scent. Few people like it when it has much of the hazt-gout; but it bears keeping better than any other sort of meat, and if eaten fresh killed it is not so good as mutton. Observe the neck of a fore-quarter ; if the vein be bluish, it is fresh; if 1t have a green or yellow cast, it is stale. In the hind-quarter, if there is a faint smell under the kidney, and the knuckle is limp, the meat is stale. If the eyes be sunk, the head is not fresh. When you can learn where it has been reared, choose forest-venison, as that is the best; for some of the dealers stall-feed the deer, and fatten them with oil-cake. It should be full 5 years old. The buck comes into season in May, and the meat continues in prime order until September, when doe-venison is brought into use, and continues to Christmas. In every sort of provisions the best of the kind goes furthest, cuts up to greatest advantage, and affords most nourishment. fiound of beef, fillet of veal, and leg of mutton, are joints that bear a higher price; but as they have more solid meat, they deserve the preference. It is worth notice, however, that those joints which are inferior may be dressed as palatably, and, being cheaper, they ought to be bought in turn. In loins of meat, the long pipe that runs by the bone should : chipiae MARKETING. 57 be taken out, as it is apt to taint; as also the kernels of beef. Rumps and aitchbones of beef are often bruised by the blows the drovers give the beasts, and the part that has been struck always taints: therefore do not purchase these joints if bruised. All meat should be carefully examined, and wiped with a dry cloth as soon as it comes into the house; and if flies have blown upon it, the part must be cut off. This should be daily observed until it is dressed, as it not only tends to preserve the meat long in perfection, but prevents that musty flavour too often perceived in the outer slice when brought to table. In the country, where meat is often carried a great distance, it should be well covered up with a cloth, over which fresh cabbage-leaves would keep it cool. These cautions are more needful, as in some families great loss is sustained by the spoiling of meat. ‘The fly may in some measure be prevented by dusting, upon the parts most likely to be attacked, pepper and ginger mixed, after wiping, which should never be omitted; but a more easy and effectual mode is to exclude the fly by using a wire meat-safe, or to cover the joints with a long loose gauze or thin cloth, and hang them up from the ceiling of an airy chamber. In summer meat should be wiped every day, or sprinkled with pepper to keep off the flies ; and should it wear any ap- pearance of becoming tainted, it should _be brushed over with pyroligneous acid; or even if already slightly infected, either the acid or roughly-pounded charcoal, if well rubbed into the meat, will restore it. The meat should also be brought in early in the morning, as, if much exposed to the sun, the heat will render it flabby. In frosty weather, meat is some- times in a congealed state, and should be thawed by soaking it in cold water before putting it to the fire. Meats become more tender, and consequently more digest- ible, as well as better flavoured, by hanging; but veal and lamb will not bear it so long as the flesh of older animals.: In summer, 2 days is enough for lamb and veal, and from 3 to 4 for beef and mutton; in cold weather, these latter may be kept for more than double that time without risk of being tainted. To know whether a hare be young, see if the nut of the first joint of the fore-paw is tender ; or turn the claws sideways, and if they crack the hare is young. If the ears are tender D3 a 58 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. VI. and pliable, and if the claws are smooth and sharp, the same conclusion may be drawn. In every sort of fish, stiffness, redness of the gills, and brightness of the eyes, are invariable signs of freshness: thick- ness of the flesh generally marks the good condition of all fish, and its firmness is an essential requisite. Fish, when quite fresh, curl round, but are particularly elastic, rising immedi- ately upon the pressure of the fingers; and their staleness or freshness may be measured by the possibility of making an impression. “If stale, the impression will remain; but, if fresh, it will rise again on removal of the pressure.” Generally speaking, the largest fish are not always the best, particularly in cod and haddock, which, when overlarge, are frequently woolly: but the smaller ones are not always to be preferred, as small salmon, or salmon peel, are always wanting in richness ; a moderately-sized turbot, if it be firm, often tastes better than some of the very largest. Turbot should be thick, and the belly of a yellowish white: if of a bluish cast, or thin, they are bad; the best proof of con- dition being in the firmnessas well as thickness of the fish, and a light cream-colour on the pale side. ‘The best fish average from 12 to 20 lbs., though those of less than half that weight have a very fine flavour. A fish one day old will dress much better than a live one. JBrill very much resembles turbot, but is narrower and thimner ; it requires scaling on both sides, and is without those thorny spines which are found on the dark side of the turbot. It should be dressed as soon as possible after it is caught. Soles would appear to be in season all the year round, as they are always in the market in greater plenty than any of our flat-fish, but are in the highest perfection about midsummer. If good, they should be thick, firm to the touch, and the belly of acream-colour ; but if this be of a bluish cast, and the body flabby, or the eyes sunken, they are not fresh; and when brought to table, if the spinal bone be in the least degree tinged with red, it is a sure sign that the fish is stale. ‘They are of all sizes, from a few ounces to a couple of pounds weight; but if much larger, they will be coarse, while the very small kinds are all skin and bone. | To choose a Codfish.—Select a short fish; the gills should be very red, and the eyes full and glossy ; for if dull and pale, it isa sure sign of the fish being stale. It should be round _— oe ~ a a ee Cuap. VII. SOUPS—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 59 and thick at the neck, from which the body swells and carries its fulness nearly down to the tail. It should be perfectly stiff, and elastic to the touch; for if, when pressed by the fmger, the mark of the indentation remains, it will eat less firm and flaky, and should therefore be rejected. The colour of the liver should be of an opaque white cast, and the whiter the liver the better the fish: when out of season, the liver be- comes red. Many persons consider cod improved by being crimped, as this increases its firmness; it then requires to be kept one day before it is cooked. Mackherel.—The eye should be full, and the stripes on the back distinctly black : those on the male are straight, those on the female are wavy. ‘The male fish is the best. The body should be full from the shoulders. Salmon.—lIf fresh and in season, the flesh is of a fine red, and the seales silvery; very firm in the belly, and the whole fish stiff. eae @ f bread, and clarified ll Cuap. X. LAMB. 147 in the dish with the head upon it, and garnish with the balls, brain-cakes, sliced lemon, or pickles. Lamb’s Head and Hinge.—This part is best from a house- lamb ; but any will be white if soaked in cold water and boiled in a napkin. Boil the head separately till very tender. Have ready the ‘iver and lights three parts boiled, and cut small ; stew them in a little of the water in which they were boiled, season and thicken with flour and butter, and serve the mince round the head. Or :—Skin the head and split it; then wash and clean thoroughly both it and the entrails—which consist of the “ hinge” and “fry,’—and lay the whole in boiling water for 4 an hour; then take out the heart, liver, and lights; mince them very small; and toss them up with a quart of either veal or mutton broth, a little ketchup, and a spoonful of cream, seasoned with pepper and salt. When the head is sufficiently boiled, rub it over with yolk of egg, and powder it with crumbs of bread ; baste it well with butter, and brown it before the fire. Keep the mince hot; and when all is ready, dish the mince with the head over it, and the brains made into savoury balls as a garnish. A little minced bacon is not a bad addition, and parsley, thyme, and finely-chopped herbs may be used at pleasure: the head may have a squeeze of lemon, and the mince a erating of nutmeg. LAMBS FRY. 147.—Parboil it; dip it in eggs, then iibread-crumbs, fry it crisp, and serve it dry, with fried parsley, without any sauce. . LAMBS SWEETBREADS. 148.—Blaneh them, and put them into cold water. Then put them into a stewpan, with a Jadleful of broth, some pepper and salt, a small bunch of button onions, a few boiled aspa- ragus-tops, and a blade of mace: stir ina bit of butter and flour, and stew + an hour. Have ready the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs well heaten in cream, with a little minced parsley and a few grates of nutmeg Do not let it boil after the cream is in; but make it hot, and stir it well all the time. Take great care it does not curdle. French beans or peas may be added, but they should be very young. : oe To fricassee Lamb-stones and Sweetbreads —Vave ready H 2 148 ~ MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Char. & some lamb-stones blanched, parboiled, and sliced. Flour 2 or 3 sweetbreads: if very thick, cut them in two. Fry all toge- ther, with a few large oysters, of a fine yellow brown. Pour the butter off, and add a pint of good gravy, some asparagus- tops about an inch long, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, 2 shalots or some chives shred fine, and a glass of white wine. Simmer 10 minutes ; then put a little of the gravy to the yolks of 3 eggs well beaten, and by degrees mix the whole. Turn the gravy back into the pan, and stir it till of a fine thickness without boiling. Garnish with lemon. To fricassee Lamb-stones—Skin, wash, and parboil, and then cut them in half, dry and fleur them; fry of a beautiful brown in hog’s lard. Serve with the following sauce: thicken some veal gravy with a bit of flour and butter, and then add to it a slice of lemon, a large spoonful of mushroom-ketchup, a teaspoonful of lemon-pickle, a grate of nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg beaten well in 2 large spoonfuls of thick cream. Put this over the fire, and stir it well till it is hot and looks white: do not let it boil, or it will curdle. ‘Then put in the fry, and shake it about for a minute or two. Serve in a very hot dish. LAMB-CHOPS.—E. R. 149.—Take a loin of lamb, cut chops from it 4 an inch thick, retaining the kidney in its place ; dip them into egg and bread-crumbs, fry and serve with fried parsley. When chops are made from a breast of lamb, the red bone at the edge of the breast should be cut off, and the breast par- boiled in water or broth, with a sliced carrot and 2 or 8 onions, before it is divided into cutlets, which is done by cutting be- tween every second or third bone, and preparing them, in every respect, as the last. If house-lamb steaks are to be done white—stew them in milk and water till very tender, with a bit of lemon-peel, a little salt, some pepper and mace. Have ready some veal- gravy, and put the steaks into it ; mix some mushroom-powder, a cup of cream, and the least bit of flour; shake the steaks in this liquor, stir it, and let it get quite hot, but not boil. Just before you take it up, put in a few white mushrooms. . Ifrown—season them with pepper, salt, nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and chopped parsley ; but dip them first into egg: Cuap. X. LAMB. 149 fry them quickly. Thicken some gravy with a bit of flour and butter, and add to it a spoonful of port wine. BLANQUETTE DAGNEAU. 150.—Cut the best part of the breast of small lamb into square pieces of 2 inches each: wash, dry, and flour them. Having boiled 4 oz. of butter, 1 of fat bacon, and some parsley, 10 minutes, put the meat to it: add the juice of 3 a lemon, an onion cut small, pepper and salt. Simmer the whole 2 hours ; then put in the "yolks of 2 eggs, shake the pan over the fire 2 minutes, and serve. EPAULE D AGNEAU AU NATUREL. 151.—Bone a small fat shoulder of lamb, leaving only 13 inch of the knuckle. Mince a little of the meat from the inside, with some bacon fat, white pepper, and salt, and lay it on the inner side. With a large needle and coarse thread gather together the circumference of the meat, press it flat, and fasten the little bone as a handle in its proper place. Then lay at the bottom of a stewpan a large sliced onion, + a lemon with- out any of the peel, 3 small carrots cut lengthways, and 1 clove; on these lay the lamb; and round it put strips of bacon about the size of your finger; throw in a little parsley, and cover the meat with veal broth. Set the pan on a very slow fire, and place wood embers on the lid. Simmer 2 hours. Keep the meat hot while the gravy is strained, and add to it a little velouté ; boil very quickly, and throw it over the lamb. ° Put a ruffle of paper on the knuckle. It may be served with cucumber, tomata, sorrel, or any other piquant sauce, after it is glazed. PIEDS DAGNEAU. 152.—Have 6 lambs’ feet scalded, take out the shank-bone very carefully, so as not to cut or break the skin ; ; soak for 3 hours in cold water; put them in a stewpan with cold water and the juice of 2 lemons ; let it boil for 10 minutes, take out the feet, throw them into cold water, cut off the bones of the cleft part of the foot, and remove the curl of hair that lies in the cleft. Boil very gently for 3 or more hours in some poélée (which see) to keep them very white. Serve with asparagus, peas, and mushroom or white cucumber sauce. 150 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XI. CHAPTER XI. VEAL. Drrections for choosing veal have already been given. To keep it, we have to observe-—the first part that turns bad of a leg of veal is where the udder is skewered back. ‘The skewer should be taken out, and the whole of the meat wiped every day ; by which means, if the larder be a good one, it will keep good 3 or 4 days in hot weather. Take care to cut out the pipe that runs along the chine of a loin, as you do of beef, to hinder it from tainting. The skirt of the breast is likewise to be taken off, and the inside wiped and scraped, and dredged with a little flour. If veal is in danger of tainting, wash it thoroughly, and boil the joint 10 minutes, putting it into the pot when the water is boiling hot ; then put it into a very cool larder, or plunge it into cold water till cool, and then wipe and put it by. If in the least tainted, it cannot be recovered, as brown meats are, by the use of charcoal or pyroligneous acid. FILLET OF VEAL ROASTED. 153.—Take a leg of veal, cut. off the knuckle sufficiently above the joint tomake a handsome fillet. Take out the bone, * fill up the space with stuffing (see Forcemeat), and also put a good layer under the fat. Truss it of a good shape by drawing the fat round, and tie it up with a tape. Paper it, put it a good distance from the fire, as the meat is very solid, and must be so thoroughly done as not to leave the least appearance of red gravy; serve it with melted butter poured over, and gravy round. Ham or bacon should be served with it, and fresh cucumbers if in season. In Paris, a longe de veau is cut somewhat in the shape of a haunch of mutton, with the fillet and part of the loin joined together. FILLET OF VEAL BOILED. 154.—Choose a small delicate fillet for this purpose ; pre- pare as for roasting, or stuff it with an oyster forcemeat ; after having washed it thoroughly, cover it with milk and water in equal quantities, and let it boil very gently 33 or 4 hours, Cuap. XI ON BAL, 151 keeping it carefully skimmed. Send it to table with a rich white sauce, or, if stuffed with oysters, a tureen of oyster- sauce; garnish with stewed celery and slices of bacon, A boiled tongue should be served with it. LOIN OF VEAL ROASTED. 155.—Run a lark-spit along the chine-bones ; then tie the ends of the lark-spit on the usual spit, drawing down the flap — over the kidney. Cover it well with buttered paper, and tie it up carefully ; let it roast gently for 3 hours. When nearly done, remove the paper, sprinkle the meat with salt, dredge it with flour, and finish basting with a small piece of fresh butter. This joint is frequently divided; the kidney end and the chump. The kidney end sent up with a toast under the fat; the chump end should be stuffed like the fillet, or sent up with balls of stuffing in the dish ; pour melted butter over the joint, and gravy round. Italso forms an excellent stew if served up in winter with rice, and in summer with green peas. BREAST OF VEAL. 156.—Cover it with the caul, and, if you retain the sweet- bread, skewer it to the back, but take off the caul when the meat is nearly done : it will take 23 to 3 hours roasting ; serve with melted butter and gravy. Or :—Remove the tendons,* and insert in their place a stuffing ; then roast as before. Or :—Raise the skin, and force in as much stuffing as pos- sible; skewer it up; this will give'a very good flavour to the joint. To stew.—Cut a breast, or a portion, in pieces; fry them with a little butter, an onion, and a cabbage-lettuce shred small ; when browned, add a little flour, shake it well together ; then add asmall quantity of broth or water ; let it stew gently. When the veal is three parts done, take a quart of peas, put them in water, and handle them with a little butter, so that they adhere together; take away nearly all the gravy from the veal, and put inthe peas. When both are done add pepper, salt, and a little pounded sugar; thicken the peas with flour and butter, dish up the veal, and pour the peas over. There should be very little sauce with the peas. Cut a handsome piece, put it into a stewpan with a piece * See Tendons, p. 159. 152 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY, Cuap. XI. of butter, a pint of water, an onion, a stick of celery, and some white pepper and salt; let it draw gently for some time, then cover it with hot water, and allow it to stew until perfectly ten- der. Remove any skin that may be about it, and thicken a part of the stock with cream, flour, and butter; cover it with the sauce, and serve it up. Mushrooms pickled white may be added to the sauce, or stewed celery. Or :—Cut the pieces into handsome sizes, put them into a stewpan, and pour some broth or water over them: add a bunch of herbs, a blade or two of mace, some pepper, an onion, and an anchovy ; stew till the meat is tender, thicken with butter and flour, and add a little ketchup. ‘The whole breast may be stewed, after cutting off the two ends, or dividing it into pieces, which should be first slightly browned. Cut the veal into handsome pieces, put them into a jar with 1 or 2 dozen oysters, and their liquor strained, and a piece of butter rolled in flour; put the jar into a kettle of water, and let it stew until tender. If the veal has been cooked, merely warm it up with the oysters in white sauce. Serve the sweetbread whole upon it, which may either be stewed or parboiled, and then covered with crumbs, herbs, pepper and salt, and browned in a Dutch oven; or, if you have a few mushrooms, truffles, and morels, stew them with it, and serve. Boiled breast of veal, smothered with onion sauce, is an ex- cellent dish. SHOULDER OF VEAL. 187. —Cut off the knuckle for a stew or gravy. Roast the other part with a stuffing, which should be inserted both under the flap of the under side, and also just below where the knuckle has been cut off; you may lard it. Serve with melted butter. The blade-bone, with a good deal of meat left on, eats ex- tremely well, when grilled, with mushroom or oyster sauce, or mushroom ketchup in butter. Being a large joint of what is considered rather coarse meat, it is rarely served to any but plain family parties; but, if braised, it makes an excellent dish. NECK OF VEAL. 158.—Take the best end of a neck of veal, cut off the ends of the bones, and turn the flap over: saw off the chine-bone,. Cuap, XI. VEAL. 18s or joint it thoroughly; paper it, and baste it well all the time it is roasting. Larding the fillet or thick part is a great improvement. ‘he lean end of the neck makes an excellent stew, with rice, onions, and a little seasoning. Or:—Take the best end of a small neck; cut the bones short, but leave it whole; then put it into a stewpan just covered with brown gravy ; and when it is nearly done, have ready a pint of boiled peas, 3 or 4 cucumbers, and 2 cabbage- lettuces cut into quarters, all stewed in a little good broth ; put them to the veal, and let them simmer for 10 minutes. When the veal is in the dish, pour the sauce and vegetables over it, and lay the lettuce round it. ‘This is an excellent summer stew. Neck of Veal a la Braise.—Cut off the ends of the long bones, and saw off the chine-bones ; raise the skin of the fillet ; lard it very close, and tie it up neatly. Put the scrag end, a little lean bacon or ham, an onion, 2 carrots, 2 heads of celery, and about a glass of Madeira wine into a stewpan. Lay on them the neck, add a little water, and stew it 2 hours, or till it is tender, but not too much. Strain off the liquor ; mix a little flour and butter in a stewpan till brown : stir some of the liquor in, and boil it up: skim it nicely, and squeeze orange or lemon juice into it, and serve with the meat. The bacon should be browned with a salamander and glazed. It may also be served with spinach or sorrel. KNUCKLE OF VEAL. 159.—Soak it 2 hours in cold water, and boil it in a cloth. Serve with plain parsley and butter, or oyster sauce and stewed celery. Or :—Break the bones, to make it take less room ; wash it well, and put it into a saucepan with 3 onions, a blade or two of mace, and a few peppercorns; cover it with water, and simmer it till quite tender. Some macaroni or rice should be boiled with it, or thicken the gravy with a little rice-flour, but do not put too much. Before it is served add 4 pint of milk and cream. ‘The meat may be served in the soup, or on a separate dish. Ifthe latter, it may be covered with onion sauce. Bacon and greens are usually eaten with boiled veal. Put chopped parsley for garnish. Or :—F ry the knuckle with sliced onions and butter to a good brown; put to it either gravy or water; stew it till H3 154 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XI. the meat is tender; have ready peas, lettuce, onion, and a cucumber or two stewed; add these to the veal; simmer for 2 of an hour. Season with pepper and salt, and serve all together. IMITATION OF MOCK-TURTLE. 160.—Put into a pan a knuckle of veal, 2 fine cow-heels or 2 calf’s feet, 2 onions, a few cloves, peppers, berries of all- spice, mace, and sweet herbs ; cover them with water, then tie a thick paper over the pan, and set it in an oven for 3 hours. When cold, take off the fat very nicely ; cut the meat and feet into bits 14 inch square ; remove the bones and coarse parts ; -and then put the rest on to warm, with a large spoonful of walnut and one of mushroom ketchup, half a pint of sherry or Madeira wine, a little mushroom-powder, and the jelly of the neat. When hot, if it wants any more seasoning, add some ; and serve with hard eggs, forcemeat-balls, a squeeze of lemon, and a spoonful of soy. This is a very easy way, and the dish is excellent. = CALF’S HEAD. 161.—Observe: the skin should always be left on calves’ heads, otherwise they are scarcely worth the pains bestowed in dressing them. Take a calf’s-head, remove the brains and the tongue, also the gristle that forms the nose, and the eye; soak it or 2 hours in lukewarm water to make it look white, and to draw out the blood from the neck portion of it. Put it in cold water, and skim it very carefully ; let it boil very gently until rather well done than otherwise; take it up, throw it into cold water, brush it over with eggs, and sprinkle crumbs, mixed with chopped parsley and marjoram, over it; brown it well in the oven, and serve it with brown caper or tomata sauce. Having soaked in warm water and carefully cleaned the brains, boil them in water with a little lemon-juice, chop them fine, add a tablespoonful of melted butter, some sea- soning, and chopped parsley; boil the tongue, skin it, and serve the brain-sauce round it. Hashed Calf’s-head.—When half boiled, cut off the meat _ in slices } inch thick, and 2 or 3 inches long: brown some butter, flour, and sliced onion, and throw in the slices with some good gravy, and morels or mushrooms; give it one boil and skim it well, and set it in a moderate heat to simmer till Cuap. XI. VEAL. 155 very tender. Season with pepper, salt, and cayenne at first ; and 10 minutes before serving throw in some shred parsley, with a very small bit of knotted marjoram cut as fine as possible: add the squeeze of a lemon and a glass of: white wine. Garnish with forcemeat-balls and bits of bacon rolled round. ; Fricasseed Calf’s-head.—Clean and half boil a head; cut the meat into small bits, and put it into a stewpan, with a little gravy made of the bones, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, and a blade of mace. Season the gravy with a little pepper, nutmeg, and salt, rub down some flour and butter, and give all a boil together; then take out the herbs and onion, and add a little cup of cream, but do not boil it. Serve with small bits of bacon rolled round and forcemeat- balls. Baked Calf’s-head.—Mix pepper, salt, bread-crumbs, and chopped sage together; rub the head over with butter, and put the seasoning upon it; cut the brains in 4 pieces, and rub them over with crumbs; lay the head in a deep dish, with the brains; put a piece of butter into each eye, with plenty of the crumbs also, fill the dish nearly full of water, and let it bake 2 hours in a quick oven. Calf’ s-head Ragotit—Parboil the head, and cut off the meat into thin broad pieces, return the bones to the water in which it was boiled, with a beef-bone or a piece of gravy beef, and ham or bacon bones ; add herbs, and, making 2 quarts of | good gravy, strain it, and put in the meat. When it has stewed ~ of an hour, add an anchovy, a little beaten mace, cayenne pepper, 2 spoonfuls of lemon-pickle, $ oz. of truffles and morels, a slice or two of lemon, and a glass of wine: thicken the gravy with butter and flour, adding forcemeat-balls fried, paste fried, and brain-cakes as a garnish. * Folled Calf’s-head.—Boil the head gently until the bone will leave the meat easily ; take some fine forcemeat, made with ham, egg-balls, and small pieces of very nice pickled pork previously,boiled : lay them evenly over the inside of one half of the head, and roll it up; tie it lightly in a cloth; put it into a stewpan to braise ; cut the other portion of the head into small pieces ; thicken and flavour the stock in which it was boiled, and warm it up in it, adding forcemeat and egg- _balls, brain-éakes, and fried paste. Place the rolled head in 156 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Guar. XL the centre of the dish, with the hash round, and the brain- cakes, fried paste, and slices of lemon as garnish. Truffles may be added with advantage to any dish composed of calf’s- head. . HASHED VEAL. 162.—If to be hashed, from any joint not overdone cut thin slices, remove the skin and gristle, put some sliced onions and a shalot over the fire with a piece of butter and some flour: fry and shake them. Put in some veal gravy and a bunch of sweet herbs; simmer 10 minutes; strain off the gravy, and put it to the veal, with some parsley chopped small, and a little grated lemon-peel and nutmeg; let it simmer 1 minute. If to be stewed, then add the yolks of 2 eggs, beaten up with 2 spoonfuls of cream and a very little pepper, and stir over the fire one way until it becomes thick and smooth; squeeze a little lemon-juice in, and serve. SCOTCH COLLOPS.—E. R. 163.—Take a slice of the leg of veal; cut the collops thin the size of a crown-piece ; flatten them with a beater; have a large dish, dredge it with flour, and sprinkle a little black pepper over it: as the collops are flattened, lay them in the dish ; put a piece of butter in a frying-pan, and, when it is melted and hot, lay in the collops; do them quickly ; when lightly browned dish them up, and serve with a mushroom sauce. If brown, cut the collops thin, beat them a little, fry them in butter for about 2 minutes, after having seasoned them with a little beaten mace; place them in a deep dish as they are fried, and cover them with gravy. Put some butter into the frying-pan, and allow it just to change colour. Then strain the collops through a colander from the gravy, and fry them quickly ; pour the burnt butter from the pan, and put in the gravy, adding a little lemon-juice. The gravy may be made of the trimmings of the veal: serve it up with force- meat-balls. If white, cut the collops the size of a crown-piece, and not much thicker : butter the bottom of the stewpan, and lay the meat piece by piece upon it, having shaken a little flour upon the butter ; add 2 blades of mace and a little nutmeg. Set the stewpan on the fire, and toss it together until the meat is - Cuap. XI. VEAL. 157 very white ; then add 3 pint of strong veal broth and } pint of cream; toss the whole, and, when simmered ehough, let them just boil. Add alittle lemon-juice, some forcemeat-balls, and either oysters or mushrooms, which must both be very white: if necessary, thicken the sauce with the yolk of eggs, but do not let it boil afterwards. To dress Collops quickly.—Cut them as thin as paper with a very sharp knife, and in small bits. Throw the skin, and any odd bits of the veal, into a little water, with a dust of pepper and salt: set them on the fire while you beat the collops, and dip them into a seasoning of herbs, bread, pepper, salt, and a scrape of nutmeg, but first wet them in egg. ‘Then put a bit of butter into a frying-pan, and give the collops a very quick fry ; for as they are so thin, 2 minutes will do them on both sides: put them into a hot dish before the fire; then strain and thicken the gravy. VEAL CUTLETS.—E. R. 164.— Cutlets are cut either from the fillet or the neck, but chops are taken from the loin. Some persons have deprecated the practice of beating meat, but it is essentially necessary in veal cutlets, which otherwise, especially if merely fried, are very indigestible. They should be cut about ¢ or, at the most, = an inch in thickness, and well beaten ; they will then, when fried, taste like sweetbread, be quite as tender, and nearly as rich. Egg them over, dip in bread-crumbs and savoury herbs, fry, and serve with mushroom sauce and fried bacon. Or :—Prepare as above and fry them; lay them in a dish, and keep them hot: dredge a little flour, and put a bit of butter into the pan; brown it, then pour a little boiling water into it, and boil quickly: season with pepper, salt, and ketchup, and pour it over them. * Cutlets and Rice.—Boil a cupful of rice in milk until quite soft, then pound it in a mortar with a little salt and some white pepper; pound also separately equal parts of cold veal or chicken ; mix them together with yolk of egg, form them into cutlets, brush over with yolk of egg, and fry them: send them up with a vera quant sauce, made of good stock, thickened, and ne with lemon-juice, lemon- “pickle, or Harvey’s 158 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cnap. XZ Cutlets and Celery.—The cutlets may be cut from the best part of the neck, taking care in removing the meat from the bones to cut it in a good shape. Put the bones and trimmings at the bottom of a stewpan, with 3 or 4 heads of celery cut and scalded, a little salt, pepper, and stewed onion; lay on these the cutlets; stew until tender. Take out the cutlets, strain the gravy, thicken it with flour and butter, add to it the best pieces of the celery, garnish with lemon in slices, and small forcemeat-balls fried. A ?Italienne-—Chop a quantity of sweet herbs, parsley being predominant; melt a little butter on the fire and then warm the herbs in it; cut the cutlets into handsome shapes, brush them with the yolk of an egg, then lay on the butter and herbs with a knife, and cover them well with bread-crumbs. This process should be repeated ; fry them of a fine brown: if glazed, they must be put between papers to press all the grease out, then brush them over with the glaze, and send them to- table. Serve with Italian sauce. A la Hollandaise.—Cut some large cutlets from a fillet of veal, beat them well, then dip them into batter made very rich with egg. Make a fine forcemeat with pounded ham, chopped oysters, &e. , lay it upon the cutlets, roll them up, dip them again in eve-hatter, roll them in bread-crumbs, and tie them up; roast “them upon skewers or in a Dutch oven; chop and pound the trimmings of the veal, add them to the oysters and ham forcemeat with 2 raw eggs, make it into balls and fry them. Have some stock ready and stew it with an anchovy, a shalot, some white pepper and salt ; strain and thicken it with butter, add the juice of 4 a lemon and a glass of white wine ; give it one boil and pour 3 into the dish, with the rolled cutlets in the centre and the balls round them. a ® A la Hollandaise, with White Sauce-—Cut thin slices of undressed veal, hack them with the back of a knife each way, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs, with a little chopped parsley, fry them in butter, lay them on a sieve as they are done, and serve them with white sauce as for fricassee. FARCIES OF VEAL. 165.—Chop off the chine-bone of a small Meck of veal to the end of the fifth rib; divide the cutlets, and with a broad knife beat the meat of each flat, and cover it with adi Cuap. XI. VEAL. 159 lean veal, beef suet, parsley, a small bit of garlic, a little salt, mace, and pepper. ‘Then roll the meat round the bone, the end of which leave out at one extremity, put overa thin slice of fat bacon, and, having stuffed in the remainder of the forcemeat at the ends of the roll, bind up with twine. At the bottom of a small stewpan lay slices of turnip, onion, 3 inches of celery, and 2 large carrots cut lengthways, and the steaks over; add as much water, or beef-broth, as shall half cover them: set the pan on a moderate stove, and some wood embers on the lid ; simmer slowly 2 hours, then remove the twine, and placing the bones upwards, leaning on each other, strain the gravy over them. Or :—Take cutlets from the chump end of a loin of veal, beat them well, cover them with slices of bacon, then with a fine forcemeat ; roll them round; tie them into shape; then dip them in the yolks of eggs and the raspings of bread ; roast them, basting well with butter; then put them into a sauce thickened with mushrooms, squeeze lemon-juice over them, let them stew till very tender, and serve them up. ROLLED VEAL—E. R. 166.— Put the breast into a stewpan with just water enough to cover it, an onion, a stick of celery, and a bundle of sweet herbs ; let it stew very gently, adding more water as it stews, until it is tender; then take out the bones, and remove the skin ; return the bones into the liquor, which will be a fine jelly, and serve as the sauce for several dishes. Cover the veal with a fine forcemeat, season it well, add egg-balls, and roll it up, securing it with tape. Put it into a stewpan with the fat pro- cured from pork chops, a slice or two of fat bacon or a lump of butter, and a teacupful of the liquor it was stewed in ; shake the stewpan about until the fat has melted, and turn the veal in it, that it may be all equally done, adding an onion and another bunch of herbs ; let it braise 14 or 2 hours, then strain the gravy, and thicken it ; garnish with forcemeat-balls, egg-balls, and fried paste cut in shapes. Peeled mushrooms may be given by way of variety. When well done, this is an ex- cellent dish. TENDONS DE VEAU. 167.—The tendons de veau are the gristle that is found in the breast of veal at the extremity of the bones ; it must be cut out from the meat before cooking. Lay the breast on the table 160 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cmap. XI. with the bones upwards, and with a sharp knife cut the tendons off the ribs: the place where the tendons begin and the ribs end being shown by a line of white gristle. ‘The breast can then be roasted or stewed, replacing the tendon by a good stuffing. Tendons aux Epinards.—Take the tendons out of the breast of veal, cut them in pieces 6 inches long, envelop them in a sheet of bacon fat, tie them up carefully, braise them with trimmings of veal, an onion, carrot, bay-leaf, 2. or 3 cloves, faggot of parsley, and thyme. Let them simmer gently, until so thoroughly done that a skewer passes through easily. Take them up, put them on a dish with a slight weight on them. When cold, cut them in slices 4 an inch thick, warm them in a little gravy, glaze them: serve on stewed spinach or sorrel, or with tomata-sauce. Tendons a la Villeroy——Cut the tendons in slices; lay them in a marinade of oil, vinegar, lemon, onions, &c., for 3 hours ; dry them, dip in batter, fry: serve with tomata-sauce, FRICANDEAU OF VEAL,—E. R. 168.—Cut a handsome piece from the fillet, lard it all over as thickly as possible ; put it into a stewpan with a few slices of fat bacon, some trimmings of veal, a carrot, turnip, and a head of celery, a few allspice, 2 blades of mace, and 4 bay- leaves ; let it stew very gently until thoroughly done, boil the gravy down to a glaze, cover the veal with it, and serve it upon a puree of sorrel. Grenadines of veal are cooked in the same way, only made of smaller pieces, 4 for a dish. In France the fricandeau is not unfrequently larded in the interior as well as the outside, by having pieces of the size of a little finger cut off the meat with an instrument something like a cheese-taster, and then refilled with pledgets of bacon, or “‘lardons.” 'The meat is also very generally served upon spinach, dressed with cream or sorrel. FRICANDELS. 169.—Take 8 lbs. of the best end of a loin of veal, chop the fat and lean together very fine; then soak a French roll in some milk ; beat 3 eggs; add pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace. Make the mixture up about the size and somewhat in the shape of a small chicken; rub it over with egg and bread-crumbs, fry until it is brown, pour off the fat, boil water in the pan, Cuar. XI. VEAL. 161 lll Sle a and stew the fricandels in this gravy : two will make a hand- ‘some dish. Thicken the gravy before it is sent to table. MIROTON OF VEAL. 170.—Chop very fine some cold dressed veal and ham or - bacon; mix it with a slice of crumb of bread soaked in milk and squeezed dry, 2 onions chopped and browned, a little salt, pepper, and a little cream. Put all these ingredients into a stewpan until they are hot, and are well mixed together ; then add 1 or 2 eggs according to the quantity, butter a mould, put in the whole, and bake it in an oven until it is brown ; turn it out of the mould, and serve with fresh gravy. A GALANTINE.—E. Rf. 171.—Take out the long bones from a breast of veal, and beat the veal for 4 minutes with the flat part of a hand-chopper, in order that it may roll easily. Spread it on the table, and brush it over thickly with the yolk of an egg, and then sprinkle it with chopped herbs ; season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace: make 2 omelettes, one of the yolk and one of the white of egg; cut them in strips; lay them upon the veal, with layers of farce between; cut some pickled cucumbers or mushrooms into small pieces, with some sweet herbs well seasoned ; strew them over the surface, then roll up the veal very tightly, tie it in a cloth, and let it stew gently for 6 hours ; then put a heavy weight upon it, and let it stand 2 days be fore it is cut. Serve it in slices, with savoury jelly: any kind of boned game or fowl may be added. It requires to be highly seasoned. VEAL OLIVES. 172:—Cut long thin slices, beat them, lay them on thin slices of fat bacon, and over these a layer of forcemeat, seasoned high with some shred shalot and cayenne. Roll them tight, about the size of 2 fingers, but not more than 2 or 8 inches long; fasten them round with small skewers, rub egg over them, and bake them of a light brown. Serve with brown gravy, in which boil some mushrooms, pickled or fresh. Garnish with balls fried. HARICOT OF VEAL. 173.—Take the best end of a small neck; cut the bones short, but leave it whole; then put it into a stewpan just covered with brown gravy; and when it is nearly done, have 162 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XI, ready a pint of stewed peas, 4 cucumbers pared and sliced, 2 cabbage-lettuces cut into quarters, and 4 pint of carrots and turnips cut in shapes, all stewed in a little good broth ; put them to the veal, and let them simmer 10 minutes. When the veal is in the dish, pour the sauce and vegetables over it, and. lay the lettuce with forcemeat-balls round it. CALVES FEET.—E. Rf. 174.—Stewed.—When properly cleaned, rub the feet over with pepper, a very little salt, and mace; cut them into moderately-sized pieces, and put them into a stewpan with a little shalot, and a beefsteak, also cut into pieces. Cover all with cold water, and let them simmer together for 3 hours. When quite tender, take them off the fire; strain the gravy through a sieve. The next day, when cold, take off all the fat; boil a small quantity of saffron in cream, and a little cayenne pepper ; mix it with the gravy, and warm the whole without boiling: 1 foot and 1 Ib. of steak will make a dish. Fricasseed.—Boil the feet in water until the bones will come out, with an onion and a bunch of sweet herbs ; take the bones out, and when the meat is cold stuff it nicely with a very fine farce, or forcemeat ; make the pieces up into hand- some shapes of an equal size; then take some of the stock in which the feet were boiled, removing the fat, and straining it when melted; make this into thick white sauce with cream and roux; warm up the calves’ feet in it, and send it to table either plain or with a quantity of asparagus tops, previously boiled, and cut into small pieces. Or :—Boil tender 2 feet in a shallow pan, observing not to break them ; throw them into cold water for an hour ; divide, and lay them in a little weak veal broth, and simmer them 2 an hour, with a blade of mace and a bit of lemon-peel, which take out when you add % a teacupful of cream, and a bit of flour and butter. f’ried.—Take calves’ feet which have been boiled until very tender, remove the bones, let them get cold, cut them into well-shaped pieces, season them with white pepper and salt, dip them into batter, fry them, and serve them up with a sharp sauce or garnish of pickles. Calves’ feet may also be plainly boiled, and served with parsley and butter, or eaten cold with oil and vinegar. ee ee) ee - 28 } VEAL. pI 163 QUEUES DE VEAU. 175.—Having nicely cleaned and soaked 4 calves’ tails, cut them in pieces 2 inches long, leaving out the small ends, and blanch them ; dry, flour, and fry them a fine brown in butter ; drain the fat from them, and, having ready a pint of weak broth, with a bunch of sweet herbs, chives or green onions, 2 bay-leaves, + pint of mushrooms, pepper and salt, boiled up and skimmed, wipe the sides of the stewpan, put the tails in, and simmer very slowly until they are quite tender; keep them hot while the gravy is strained, and boiled to a glaze, to cover them. If you have no mushrooms, mix a little of the powder into the gravy just before serving; have ready small onions, and peel to one size to send up in the dish. CALVES EARS STUFFED. 176.—The hair being scalded off the ears, after they have been cut quite close to the head, scald and clean them as well as possible ; boil them quite tender, and blanch them in cold water. Observe that the gristle next the head be cut so smooth as to allow the ears to stand upright; they may be boiled in white gravy instead of water, which will make them richer. When cold, fill up the cavity with a fine stuffing of ealf’s liver, fat bacon, grated ham, bread soaked in cream or gravy, herbs, an unbeaten egg, a little salt, and a small piece of mace; rub egg over the ears and stuffing, dip in bread- crumbs, and fry of a beautiful light brown. Serve in brown or white gravy, or tomata-sauce. If the ear be large, one will be sufficient for a corner dish. Or :—When prepared _as above, boil them quite tender in gravy, and serve them in chervil-sauce; or else boil chervil to a mash, put to it melted butter, pass it through a sieve, and add to it white sauce, or use the latter solely, in which case put a little mushroom-powder into it; the same forcemeat may be used, or the ears may be served without. They like- wise eat well served in white or brown gravy, cut into slices. In the latter case, fry them before stewed in gravy. CALVES BRAINS.—E. R. 177.—Remove all the large fibres and skin; soak them in warm water for 4 hours ; blanch them for 10 minutes in boil- ing water, with a little salt and vinegar in it; then soak them 3 hours in lemon-juice in which a bit of chervil has been 164 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. a, steeped ; dry them well, dip them in batter, and fry them. Make hot a ladleful of glaze, some extremely small onions browned in butter, artichoke bottoms divided in half, and some mushroom-buttons, and serve round the brains. Or :—Having prepared them, cut them in slices 4 an inch thick ; flour, egg, and bread-crumb them, fry them a nice brown, and serve with tomata-sauce. Two pair of brains will make a good dish. Or :—Blanch the brains, and beat them up with an egg, pepper, and salt, a small quantity of chopped parsley, and a piece of butter. Make them into small cakes, put them into a small frying-pan, and fry them. Or :—Prepare them as above: wet with egg, and sprinkle crumbs; salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, and finish dressing ina Dutch oven. Serve with melted butter, with or without a little mushroom-ketchup. | Croquettes of Brains.—Take calf’s brains, blanch, and beat them up with 1 or 2 chopped sage-leaves, a little pepper and salt, a few bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and an egg beaten ; roll them into balls, and fry them. Cervelles de Veau au Marinade.—Cut a carrot, a turnip, and an onion into pieces; let them stew in a little butter ; then add a bundle of sweet herbs, and pour over them a pint of vinegar and water in equal parts; then strain the liquor, and pour it over calves’ brains cleaned and blanched ; let them stew in it till they are firm, then fry them in butter, and serve up with crisped parsley. 2 Cervelles de Veau Fricassées.—Having cleared and blanched the brains, render them white and firm by squeezing lemon- juice over them ; then put them into a stewpan with a piece of butter ; stew slowly, that they may not brown; dredge in a small quantity of flour; add a bunch of parsley, and 1 of chives ; moisten with clear veal broth; let the brains stew until they are firm ; then send them up in the sauce, thickened with a little cream and flour and butter. CALF’S LIVER, ETC.—E. R. 178.—Cut the liver rather thin, say about 4 inch thick, but first soak it in warm water for an hour; chop a quantity of parsley, season it with pepper, and lay it thick upon the liver; cut slices of bacon, and fry both together, but put the bacon - Cuap. XI. VEAL. 165 first into the pan ; add a little lemon-pickle to the gravy made by pouring the fat out of the pan, flouring, and adding boil- ing water. % Or :—Cut the liver in handsome pieces, lard them very nicely, and chop some parsley and spread it over the surface with a little pepper and salt ; put a small piece of butter well mixed with flour in the bottom of a stewpan, put in the liver, and allow it to stew gently in its own juices until it is done enough. Liver and Lights Half boil an equal quantity of each ; then cut them into a middling-size mince ; put to it a spoonful or two of the water they were boiled in, a bit of butter, flour, salt, and pepper ; simmer 10 minutes, and serve hot. Calf’s Heart.—Stuff and roast the same as beef heart ; or, being sliced and seasoned, make it into a pudding as directed for steak or kidney pudding. It may be either roasted or baked, but in either way should be well basted, stuffed with forcemeat as for veal, but made rather more savoury, and served up in the same manner as beef heart. When the kidney is cut from the loin and dressed sepa- rately, chop it up with some of the fat; with a little leek or onion, pepper, and salt. Veal forcemeat may also be used, but it rather weakens the pungency of the seasoning. Roll it up with an egg into balls, and fry them. SWEETBREADS. 179.—For every mode of dressing, sweetbreads should be prepared by blanching, or rather parboiling them. They may be larded and braised ; and, being of themselves rather insipid, they will be improved by a relishing sauce, and by a large quantity of herbs in the braise. Slices of lemon put upon the sweetbreads while braising will heighten the flavour and keep them white, which is very desirable when sent to table with white sauce. Stuffed with: oysters, they make a very good vol au vent. Sweetbreads % la Daube-—Blanch 2 or 3 of the largest sweetbreads ; lard them ; put them into a stewpan, with some good veal gravy, a little browning, and the juice of 4a lemon; stew them till quite tender, and just before serving thicken, with flour and butter ; glaze them ; serve with their gravy, and bunches.of stewed ‘celery round the dish, a ae 166 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar. XT. Sweetbreads stewed.—After blanching, stuff them with: r forcemeat of fowl, fat and lean bacon, an anchovy, nutmeg, lemon-peel, parsleyyge a very little cayenne and thyme; when well mixed, add the yolks of 2 eggs, and fill the sweet- breads. Fasten ‘hen together with splinter-skewers, and lay — . them in a pan, with slices of veal over, and baconunderthem; season with pepper and salt, mace, cloves, herbs, and sliced _ onion ; cover close over the fire 10 minutes, then add a quart of broth, and stew gently 1 hour; take out the sweetbreads, strain and skim the broth, and boil it to } pint ; warm the sweetbreads i in it, and serve with lemon a alc Fried —Cut them in slices about 2 inch thick, dry and flour, égg them, and dip them into fine bread-erumbs ; fry them of a light brown ; serve on spinach, endive, or sorrel ; or cut some toasted bread, dish them on site and serve them with a sauce piquante. i, For an invalid, boil them well, cover them with bread- crumbs, a little pepper and salt, mwith a small bit of butter ; brown them lightly with a salamander. Roasted.—Blanch, dry, egg and bread-crumb them; pass a small skewer through each ; tie them on a spit; "roast gently ; baste with fresh butter ; ; serve nicely frothed, and a mushro room-sauce under them. . Fr measseed white-—Blanch and slice them; thicken some b veal gravy with flour and butter mixed, a little cream, a little mushroom-powder, and add white pepper, nutmeg, and grated lemon-peel; stew these ingredients together a little, then simmer the sweetbreads 20 minutes. When taken off the fire, . add a little salt ; stir well, and serve. | Fricasseed brown.—Cut them about the size of a walnut, — a flour, and fry them of a fine brown; pour to thema good beef gravy, seasoned with salt, pepper, cayenne, and allspice; simmer till tender; thicken with flour and butter. Morels, truffles, and mushrooms may be added, and mushroom- ketchup. ; ; Croquettes.—Take 2 sweetbreads, a little onion chopped fine, mixed with a small piece of butter, 1 egg, and a little cream ; season with white pepper, cayenne, and salt. ‘This * will make 8 or 9 croquettes. Roll them in egg and then in bread-crumbs; fry them in lard a nice brown colour; strew ———— Oe ¥ a ae ee ery Car. XI. | ; VEAL. 167 them in a circle round the dish, and serve fried parsley in the centre. Cold veal chopped, and stewed in a little gravy, and when cold made up as above, makes excellent croquettes. RIS Di VEAU EN CAISSES. 180.—Blanch 3 sweetbreads, and simmer in a strong, well- flavoured gravy till quite done. Have ready 3 round trays 1p of white paper oiled, and lay them therein ; having left them lightly wetted with gravy, sprinkle over them the finest crumbs or raspings of bread, pepper, salt, and a very little nutmeg ; do them slowly on a gridiron, and serve in the cases. Any of the vegetable sauces may be served with them. GARNITURE EN RAGOUT. 181.—Having prepared and blanched sweetbreads of veal or lamb (house-lamb is the best), liver of lamb and. rabbits, truf- bee fles and mushrooms, simmer gently 3 an hour in rich veal broth ; then divide the several.articles into fit bits for help- ing, and stew the whole till mder. If, when finished, the gravy wants consistency, p in it a good piece o butter rolled in flour. Season it, 15 minutes before serving, with white pepper, salt, and nutmeg only. Have ready and . hot, forcemeat-balls, in which finely-scraped ham, beef-suet, 4 the breast of a fowl, or cold veal, are the principal ingredients. ‘ It may be served in an ornamented crust previously baked. If to be white, beat as many yolks of eggs as the quantity may require, and simmer in the ragotit 2 minutes: it must not boil. Sometimes 1 or 2 whole pigeons, nicely prepared, form a part of this much-admired dish, which in one way or other is rarely omitted on well-covered tables. VEAL CAKE—E. R. 182.—Bone a breast of veal, and cut it in slices; cut also slices of ham or lean bacon, and boil 6 eggs hard ; butter a deep pan, and place the whole in layers one over the other, cutting the eggs in slices, and seasoning with chopped herbs and cayenne pepper, and wetting the herbs with anchovy or other highly-flavoured sauce. Cover up the whole, let it bake for 4 hours, and, when taken from the oven, laya weight upon it to press it well together. When cold, turn it out. Another.—Boil 6 or 8 eggs hard ; cut the yolks in 2, and 168 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XT. lay some of the pieces in the bottom of the pan: shake in a little chopped parsley, some slices of veal and ham, and then — eggs again, shaking in, after each, some chopped parsley, with — pepper and salt, till the pan is full. Then put in water enough — to cover it, and lay on it about an ounce of butter; tie it down — with a double paper, and bake it about an hour. ‘Then press — & it close together with a spoon, and let it stand till cold. It — may be put into a small mould, and then it will turn out — beautifully for a supper or side dish. Another.—Chop very finely cold dressed ve bacon ; mix it with a slice of bread- cont soaked in milk, 2 onions “chopped and browned, a little salt, pepper, and an egg beaten. Put all these ingredients into a stewpan until they — : are hot and are well mixed; then oilor butter a mould, put in wn; then take the whole, and bake it in an oven until it is brown ; 4 it out, and send it to table with fresh gravy. Veal rolls are cut from any cold joint, or prepared in the same manner from the raw meat. Cut thin slices, and spread on them a fine seasoning of a} very few crumbs, a little chopped ~ r scraped bacon, parsley and shalot, some fresh mushrooms ~~ stewed and minced, pepper, salt, and a small piece of pounded mace, ‘This stuffing may either fill up the roll like a sausage, or be rolled with the meat. In either case, tie it up very tight, and stew very slowly in a gravy and a glass of sherry. Serve it when tender, after skimming it nicely. — BLANQUETTES. 183.—Melt a piece of butter the size of a walnut ina ~ stewpan ; then put in a little thyme, parsley, or any herbs you | like the flavour of, and a little onion, all chopped fine, with a — pinch of flour. Brown the herbs ; add pepper and salt, with a clove or two. Then put in cold or undressed veal, cut in thin slices the size of half-a-crown; add gravy or broth 4 pint, @ or according to the quantity of meat you want to ates It 4 should not be too large a dish. Let it stew very gently overa stove ; if of dressed meat, 1 hour will be sufficient: addZa _ teacupful of cream, and stir it well together for a few minutes ; then take it up, and before you turn it out add 2 yolks of eggs — well beaten. Give it a few shakes over the fire. It must not boil, or it will curdle. Or :—Cut rabbits, fowl, veal, or lobster in pieces, steep them Cuap. XI. VEAL. 169 (except the veal and fish) in water for 4 an hour, changing the water. Put some butter ina stewpan to melt, but do not let it fry ; put in the meat with a very little flour, and keep shaking it well; pour in by degrees some broth made of white meat, add a bunch of parsley, an onion, salt, mace, and white pepper. Stew it well t of an hour before it is dished ; take out the parsley and onion, and add some raw parsley chopped, and the yolk of an egg and cream beaten together. . You must. never cease shaking the pan until the blanguette is put over the dish. Veal a la Chartreuse—Line a copper mould with fat bacon, lay sliced carrots and turnips round the edges, then cover with a forcemeat, and put in a fricassée of veal or fowl. Cover the top of the mould with a paste, steam it an hour, and serve it turned out upon a dish. To marble Veal.—Boil tender, skin, and cut a dried neat’s tongue in thin slices, and beat it as fine as possible, with + lb. of butter and some mace pounded. Have ready some roasted fillet of veal, beaten with butter, and seasoned with white pepper and salt; of this put a thick layer in a large potting-pot, then put in the tongue, in rough irregular lumps, not to touch each other; fill up the pot with veal, and press it down quite close. Pour clarified butter thick over; keep it in a dry cool place, and serve in thin slices, taking off the butter. Garnish with parsley. SCALLOPS OF COLD VEAL. 184,—Mince the meat extremely small, and set it over the fire, with a scrape of nutmeg, a little pepper and salt, and a little cream, for a few minutes ; then put it into the scallop- shells, and cover them with crumbs of bread, over which put some bits of butter, and brown them before the fire. Hither veal or chicken looks and eats well prepared in this way, and lightly covered with crumbs of bread fried ; or these may be put on in little heaps. TO MINCE VEAL. 185.—Mince cold roast veal; put to it a very little lemon- peel shred, a little grated nutmeg, some salt, and 4 or 5 spoonfuls of either broth, milk, or water; simmer these gently with the meat, but take care not to let it boil, and add a bit of butter rubbed in flour, Put sippets of thin toasted bread, cut I 170 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cnr. XIf, into a three-cornered shape, round the dish. Fried crumbs of bread lightly strewed over, or served in little heaps on the meat, are an improvement to the look and flavour. A little shred of shalot may occasionally be added. | Or :—Stew a few small mushrooms in their own liquor and a bit of butter ¢ of an hour; mince them very small, and ~ add them (with their liquor) to minced veal, with also a little pepper and salt, some cream, and a bit of butter rubbed in less than 4a teaspoonful of flour. Simmer 3 or 4 minutes, and serve on thin sippets of bread. * The Turkish mode.—Take equal quantities of cold dressed — veal, minced very fine, fat, and crumbs of bread, and season it well ; add chopped onions, parsley, salt, and cayenne pepper ; wet it with one or two eggs, according to the quantity, adding, if necessary, a little cold melted butter ; make the mixture into balls or egg-shapes, and roll them in as much boiled rice as they will take round them. Stew them for 13 hour in good gravy, well seasoned, and serve them up in it. In all these modes, the addition may be made of sauce aux éruffes, or any of the approved sauces ; and a squeeze of lemon will in all cases be found to give a pleasing zest to their flavour. CURRY OF VEAL. 186.—Cut part of a breast of veal in moderate-sized pieces ; put it in a stewpan with an onion and a shalot sliced fine, a slice of lemon, 1 oz. of butter, a little parsley and thyme, and a tablespoonful of curry-powder mixed with the same quantity of flour ; let the whole sweat together until the meat is slightly brown ; ‘add sufficient broth or water for the sauce ; let it boil gently till the veal is done ; strain the sauce through a sieve, pour it over the veal quite hot, and serve with rice in a sepa- rate dish, ee Gees CHAPTER XII, PORK, Tuts meat requires to be very well roasted, is never boiled unless salted, and in every form should be thoroughly cooked. It is not the fashion to stuff it, as heretofore, with sage and onions, the meat frequently disagreeing with delicate persons a ‘a Cuapr. XII. PORK. 171 without the addition of so strong an adjunct, but it forms a very savoury addition. A part of the objection may be re- moved by boiling the sage and onions, and mixing them with bread-crumbs and a chopped apple ; and if thus prepared, the stuffing will be found mild, and of excellent flavour. The griskin and the sparerib are certainly improved by being powdered with chopped sage, but this is all a matter of taste. ‘The skin of the leg and loin must be scored previous to roasting ; but take care to preserve the skin, or crackling, of a fine brown, as many persons look upon it to be the best part of the pork: it should therefore be well basted, and guarded from being burned by a sheet of oiled paper. Send both up with a glass of vinegar mixed with 2 teaspoonfuls of made mustard in the dish. Apple-sauce should always be served with roasted pork. If you kill a young pig of 4 or 5 months, take off the skin of the fore quarter, roast it, and serve with mint-sauce and salad. SUCKING-PIGS. 187.—To scald a Sucking-pig.—The moment the pig is killed put it into cold water for a few minutes; then rub it over with a little resin, beaten extremely small, and put it into a pail of scalding water 4 a minute ; take it out, lay it on a table, and pull off the hair as quickly as possible: if any part does not come off, put it in again. When quite clean, wash it well with warm water, and then in 2 or 3 cold waters, that no flavour of the resin may remain. ‘Take off the feet at the first joint; make a slit down the belly and take out the entrails: put the liver, heart, and lights to the feet. Wash the pig well in cold water, dry it thoroughly, and fold it in a wet cloth to keep it from the air. To roast a Sucking-pig.—Put some sage, a large piece of white bread, salt, pepper, and an onion, into the belly ; then sew it up. Observe to skewer the legs back, or the under part will not crisp. Lay it to a brisk fire till thoroughly dry ; then have ready some butter in a dry cloth, and rub the pig with it in every part, Dredge as much flour over it as will possibly lie, and do not touch it again till ready to serve ; then scrape off the flour very carefully with a blunt knife or coarse towel, rub the pig well with a buttered cloth, and take off the head while at the fire ; take out the brains, and mix them with IZ 172 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Ounap. XIE. the gravy that comes from the pig, or make them up into balls with crumbs of bread and egg. ‘Then take it up, and, without withdrawing the spit, cut it down the back and belly, lay it into the dish, and throw out the onion: chop the sage and bread quickly as fine as you can, and mix them with fine melted butter and thick brown gravy. ‘Take off the upper part of the head down to the snout. Put the sauce into the dish after the pig has been split down the back, and garnished with the ears and the 2 jaws. In Devonshire it is served whole, if very small; the head only being cut off to garnish, as above. It will require from 2 hours to 2% to roast, and an iron “ pig-plate”’ should be hung on a bar of the grate to prevent the middle of the. pig being done before the other parts are Tz ady. Sucking-pig should never be more than about 3 weeks old ; but sometimes young porkers just weaned from the dam are roasted whole in the following manner :— . TO ROAST A PORKER.—E. Rh. 188.—When prepared for the spit, roll a small lump of butter in flour and chopped sage-leaves, and put it in the in- side ; but put enough, as the body of a young pig should be quite filled with stuffing. When warm at the fire, take the whites of 1 or 2 888, beat them well, and, with a small brush or a bunch of feathers, spread it all over the pig. When nearly roasted, catch the gravy that falls; and, when taken from the spit, remove the sage-leaves from the inside ; cut off the head, split it, and take out the brains, cut the pig down the back and into quarters, cut off the ears, and lay them with the head round the dish. Mix with the gravy already caught the brains and the sage-leaves, chopped small, together with a littie cream or melted butter heated in a saucepan, and pour it into the dish. The pig may be sent up with various sauces,—viz. currant- sauce, egg-sauce, gravy, and plumped prunes or raisms. This is an old-fashioned recipe for roasting-pig, but, as it obtained when the dish was a favourite, it has been inserted here. The common method now is, to bake a pig, and send it to the oven rubbed with butter, basting it occasionally with butter, while cooking, and having gravy, bread, egg, cranberries, or —— ee Ogar. XII. PORK. 173 eurrant-jelly as an accompaniment. It will take more than 2 hours in roasting ; or it may be equally well baked. To roast a Porker’s Head.—Choose a fine head, not too elose to the neck ; clean it well, remove the eyes and snout, and put bread and sage as for pig; sew it up tight, and ona string, or hanging-jack, roast it asa pig, and serve with the same sauce. LEG OF PORK.—E. R. 189.— To bake.—Rub it well over with salt and saltpetre mixed ; let it lie 5 or 6 days in the brine; then hang it up to smoke for 5 or 6 days. ‘Take off the skin, put it into an earthen dish, and pour a little red wine over it; stick a few cloves in it, or beat them to powder, and rub them over it. When it has been in the oven a short time, take some hard biscuit, pounded with sugar, and spread it all over. Serve it up with gravy, and port-wine sauce. To roast. —Choose a small leg of fine young pork ; raise the skin round the knuckle with a sharp knife, and fill the space with sage and onion chopped, and a little pepper and salt, securing the skin tight with string to keep in the stuffing. Score the skin in slices, but do not cut deeper than the outer rind. Put it at first a good distance from the fire, baste it frequently to prevent its scorching: when about three parts done, rub the skin rather firmly with raw butter, after which flour it lightly and put close to the fire to crisp the crackling. Apple-sauce should be served with it. To boil.—Salt it 8 or 10 days, turning it daily, but do not rub it after the first. When it is to be dressed weigh it: let it lied an hour in cold water to make it white: allow + of an hour for every lb., and ¢ an hour over, from the time it boils up: skim it as soon as it boils, and frequently after, but do not boil it fast, or it will be hard. Allow water enough. Save some of the water to make pea-soup. Some boil it ina cloth, floured, which gives a very delicate look, but destroys the value of the liquor for making soup. PORK CUTLETS. 190.—Perhaps few things of a simple nature, and served in a plain way, are better than a hot pork chop, cut about 4 an inch thick, trimmed neatly, and broiled upon the gridiron. Or :—Fry in salad oil ; serve with sauce Robert or gherkin- 174: * MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cunap. XII. sauce, the gherkins being shred ie into some good thick brown gravy. Or :—Marinade the cutlets for 4 Routed in oil with an onion in slices, parsley, bay-leaf, pepper, and salt; fry them in the marinade; serve with tomata-sauce. Or :—Melt a small piece of butter in a fryingpan ; put in it 3 bay-leaves, 3 slices of lemon, a little parsley and thyme shred, 4 leaves of sage, a blade of mace, 8 allspice, and a glass of white wine; lay in the cutlets, put a cover over them, let them be about two-thirds done, then take them out, dry them, dip them in egg, then in bread-crumbs, fry them quickly; serve with the sauce that comes from the cutlets, thickened with flour and butter, and a little mustard stirred in at the last moment previous to sending to table, as if it boils it is apt to curdle. PORK CURRY. 191.—Take pork cutlets, cut rather fat, and proceed as for veal curry. SADDLE OF PORK. 192.—Have a saddle of pork cut as a saddle of mutton; roast it with the rind on. When sending it to table, remove the crackling, and serve with tomata-sauce. LOIN AND NECK OF PORK 193.—May be roasted and served with the same accompani- ments as a porker. Or :—Simmer the best end of either of the joints till nearly fit for the table, strip off the skin, put it into a cradle-spit, wet it all over with yolks of eggs, and cover it thickly with crumbs of bread, sweet herbs and chives chopped fine for stuffing, and seasoned with pepper and salt. It will become a good brown. in about an hour, Either a them may also be rolled.—Bone it: put a force- meat of chopped sage, a very few crumbs of bread, salt, pep- per, and 2 or 8 berries of allspice, over the inside: then roll the meat as tight as you can, and roast it slowly, and at a good distance at first from the fire. To parboil it before the herbs are put on will be an improve- ment, . LOIN OF PORK A LA PORTUGAISE. 194.—In Portugal, where the pork is perhaps the finest in a Cuap. XII. PORK. 175 Europe, porkers are never killed, but the fat of bacon-hogs is cut off for curing ; and the loin, eaten fresh, is there pre- _ pared by being left for some days to soak in red wine and garlic, it being occasionally hung up to dry, then returned to the wine, afterwards roasted, and-served with tomata-sauce. Tt is a highly-flavoured delicacy, and we offer it as a hint which is worthy. of attention. AV Espagnole—is prepared and dressed in the same manner; but when ready for dressing, sprinkle the meat with sweet herbs chopped, wrap it in bay-leaves, add the juice of two Seville oranges. to the wine, which must be strained, and bake it in an oven. PIGS-FEET A LA ST. MENEHOULD—E. R. 195.—Clean the feet perfectly, cut them down in two, then bind them with a tape to prevent their shrinking or opening, and boil them gently until they are rather soft, with carrots, onions, parsley, thyme, allspice, and bay-leaf; let them cool in the liquor. When required for use, take off the tape, dip them in yolks of eggs and butter about three parts melted ; season them, then cover them with crumbs of bread and fmely-minced parsley, with the smallest quantity of shalot. Broil them until highly browned, and serve dry, or with sauce Robert. Pettitoes.—Boil them, with the liver and the heart, in a small quantity of water very gently; then cut the meat fine, and simmer it with a little of the water and the feet split, till the feet are quite tender ; thicken witha bit of butter, a little flour, a spoonful of cream, and-a little salt and pepper. Give it a boilup, pour it over a few sippets of bread, and put the feet on the mince. ' TO FORCE HOGS EARS. 196.—Parboil 2 pair of ears, or take some that have been soused ; make a forcemeat of an anchovy, a little finely-minced veal, some sage, parsley, ¢ lb. of suet chopped, ¢ lb. of bread- crumbs, pepper, and only a little salt. Mix all these with the yolks of 2 eggs, raise the skin of the upper side of the ears, and stuff them with the above. Fry the ears in fresh butter, of a fine colour; then pour away the fat, and drain them; make ready 3 pint of rich gravy, with a glass of sherry; 3 teaspoonfuls of made mustard, a little bit of flour and 176 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cnap. XII. butter, a.small onion whole, and a little pepper or cayenne. Put these, with the ears, into a stewpan, and cover it close ; stew it gently for 3 an hour, shaking the pan often. When done enough, take out the onion, place the ears carefully in a dish, and pour the sauce over them. If a larger dish be wanted, the meat from 2 feet may be taken from the bones, and added to the above. PIGS FEET AND EARS. 197.—Soused.—Clean carefully and soak them some hours, then boil them tender : having prepared a pickle of some of the liquor that they were boiled in, and a quarter part of vinegar and salt, boiled, pour it over them cold. When they are to be dressed, dry them, cut the feet in two, slice the ears, and fry them. Serve with butter, mustard, and vinegar, in a boat. They may be dipped in batter, or only floured. Fricasseed.—Take feet and ears that have been boiled, but not kept in pickle wherein was vinegar; boil them tender in milk, cut the feet into neat bits, and the ears into strips of 4 inch wide: wipe them, and simmer in veal broth, with a bit of onion, mace, and lemon-peel. Before you serve, add a little cream, flour, and butter. Jelly of Pigs’ Feet and Ears.—Clean and prepare, then boil them in a very small quantity of water till every bone can be taken out; throw in half a handful of chopped sage, the same of parsley, and a seasoning of pepper, salt, and a little mace in fine powder ; simmer till the herbs are scalded, then pour the whole into a melon-form. Serve when cold. PORK GRISKIN 198.—Is usually very hard: the best way tc prevent this is to put it into as much cold water as will cover it, and let it boil up; then instantly take it off, and put it into a Dutch oven ; a very few minutes will do it. Remember to rub butter over it, and then flour it, before you put it to the fire. Lay it in a dish on melted butter and mustard. It should be sea- soned. with pepper and salt before roasting. SPARERIB 199.—Should be basted with a very little butter and a little flour, and then sprinkled with dried sage crumbled. Serve apple-sauce in a boat. Cuar, XI. PORK. 177 BELLY OF PORK. 200.—Lovers of pork are very fond of having the belly part of a porker, either fresh or salted, strewed thickly over the in- side with sage, sweet herbs, minced eschalots, and seasoning ; then rolled, tied tightly together, and either baked or roasted. It eats well cold and pressed. SHOULDERS AND BREASTS OF PORK. 201.—Put them into pickle, or salt the shoulder as a ham ; cut accordingly. When very delicate, they may be roasted. SPRING, OR FOR AND OF PORK. 202.—Cut out the bone; sprinkle salt, pepper, and sage dried, over the inside; warm a little butter to baste it; roll the pork tight, tie it, and flour it; roast by a hanging-jack. About 2 hours will do it. 7 CHINE OF PORK. 203.—The chine is usually salted, and served as an accom- paniment to roast turkey. Garnish the dish with greens cut in halves, and carrots of nearly the same size, to make a border round the chine. Or :—Salt the chine for 3 days, roast it, and serve it up with sauce made thus:—Fry in oil or butter 2 or 8 sliced onions until they take colour; then pour off the oil, and add ‘some gravy-sauce, chopped mushrooms, and 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, with 1 teaspoonful of made mustard. Give the whole a boil, and serve it up in the dish. BLADE-BONE OF PORK 204.—Is taken from the bacon-hog : the less meat left on it, in moderation, the better. It is to be broiled ; and when just done, pepper and salt it. Put to it apiece of butter and a teaspoonful of mustard; and serve it quickly. This is a Somersetshire dish. PIGS HARSLET. 205.—Wash and dry some liver, sweetbreads, and fat and lean bits of pork, beating the latter with a rolling-pin to make it tender ; season with pepper, salt, sage, and a little onion shred fine; when mixed, put all into a caul, and fasten it up tight with a needle and thread. Roast it on a hanging-jack, or by a string. 13 178 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Czar. XII. Or :—Serve in slices, with parsley for a fry; with a sauce of port wine and water, and mustard, just boiled up, and put into the dish. HOGS LARD 206.—Should be carefully melted in a jar put into a kettle of water and boiled: run it into bladders that have been ex- tremely well cleaned. ‘The smaller they are the better the lard keeps, as, after the air reaches it, it becomes rank, Put in a sprig of rosemary when melting. This being a most useful article for frying fish, it should be prepared with care. Mixed with butter, it makes fine crust for tarts. . HAMS. 207,—Skimmed milk, or milk and water, will be found pre- ferable to plain water for soaking hams; and they may also be boiled in milk and water. Where vegetables are plentiful, it is desirable to boil ham with 3 heads of celery, a couple of turnips, half a dozen small onions, and a large bunch of sweet marjoram, thyme, &c., put in after the pot has been skimmed. “ These will extract the salt and soften the meat. A piece of coarse fresh beef, or any kind of meat, in addition, will materially improve the ham, as, in this manner of boiling it, the juices of the meat and vege- tables insinuate themselves between the fibres of the ham, after having dislodged the salt, by which means the meat is enriched and rendered tender. At first sight this will appear an extravagant way of boiling a ham, but it should be consi- dered that the broth will serve the purposes of the family.” * If the meat and vegetables are not approved, 2 lbs. of fresh beef-dripping will answer nearly as well. A quart of ale added to the roots is a great assistance to a new ham. Yo boil.—If long hung, soak it for 24 hours in luke-warm water, changing it frequently. Wash and brush it well; trim off any rusty parts; put it into a boiler of water, and let it simmer from 34 hours to 5 hours, according to its size. It is best to allow time enough, as it is easy to take up the ham when done, and keep it hot, covered closely over boiling water. Remove the skin carefuliy, and trim the ham of a neat * «Medical Commentary on Modern Cookery,’ by A. Hunter, M.D., F.R.S. L. and E, * PORK. 179 Cuapr. XII. shape; dry the fat with a cloth, and either glaze it or sprinkle it with bread-crumbs previously browned in the frying-pan or bakers’ raspings. Garnish the dish with stewed spinach or broad beans. ." Y Cuav. XIII. POULTRY AND GAME. 203 or cold; the former on a napkin, the latter on moss. Send to table with the second course. HARES, 234.—If properly taken care of, will keep a considerable time, and even when the cook fancies them past eating may be in the highest perfection, which they cannot be if eaten when fresh killed. As they are usually paunched in the field, the cook cannot prevent this; but the hare keeps longer, and eats much better, if not opened for 4 or 5 days, or according to the weather. If paunched, as soon as a hare comes in, it should be wiped quite dry, the heart and liver taken out, and the liver scalded to keep for the stuffing. Repeat this wiping every day; mix pepper and ginger, and rub on the inside; and put a large piece of charcoal into it, to prevent the musty taste occasioned by damp. Hares should never be hung by the Azad legs; for, as the animal is commonly kept for a week or 10 days, if so hung, drops of moisture will in a couple of days be seen to issue from the mouth, thus draining the carease of its natural juice. It should, therefore, be always suspended by the fore legs. An old hare should be kept as long as possible, if to be roasted. It must also be well soaked ; and while roasting it must be constantly basted with butter, or the skin will become hardened and the flesh rendered sapless. Hare requires to be kept at a distance from the fire. Send it to table with currant-jelly and gravy. It is now the fashion to bone hares, which greatly improves their appearance, lessens the difficulty of carving, and assists in making the gravy. Break the bones, and stew them in water, and any small quantity of meat parings ; boil the liver, which is to be chopped and put into the stuffing, in this gravy, and add a little brown- ing to give it a colour. 235.—To roast Hare.—After it is skinned, let it be well wiped ; and, if old, lard it, which will make it tender, as will also letting it lie in vinegar. If, however, it is put into vinegar, it should be exceedingly well washed in water after- wards. Put a large well-seasoned veal stuffing into the belly, and then sew it up. When first put to the fire, pour some boiling water over the head and shoulders; then baste it well with milk till half done, and afterwards with butter. The hare 204 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XIII. should be kept at a distance from the fire at first. Serve with a fine froth, rich gravy, and currant-jelly sauce; little gravy in the dish. A stuffing may be made with the liver pounded, an anchovy, some fat bacon, a little suet, herbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, crumbs of bread, and an egg to bind it all. The ears must be nicely cleaned, singed, and made crisp, being reckoned a dainty. With Cream-sauce.—Boil the liver, and chop it very fine; mix a small portion with the stuffing, and reserve the remain- der for the sauce. Put a bunch of sweet herbs into the drip- ping-pan, and pour a quart of good milk overit. Baste the hare continually with the milk, and when it is rather more than half roasted take the sauce out of the dripping-pan, and put another quart of new milk to the herbs. ‘Take the hare, and slit the neck in order that the gravy may run from it into the milk that has been added ; then skewer the head down again ; baste continually as before, until within 20 minutes of its being served ; then remove the milk, and baste with butter, dredging it gently with flour twice during that time: add the two quan- tities of milk together ; stir ina lump of butter and flour; put in the chopped liver, warm it over the fire, stirring all the time, being careful not to let it boil, as that would curdle it. The hare must be well wiped with a dry cloth previous to spitting, but on no account be washed, as that would spoil it. To cook a Hare Derrynane fashion.—Take 3 or 4 eggs, a pint of new milk, 2 handfuls of flour ; make them into a batter, and, when the hare is roasting, baste it well, repeating the operation until the batter thickens and forms a coating all over the hare: this should be allowed to brown but not to burn. Old hares should be jugged. Leicestershire Jugged Hare.—Skin the hare, and cut it in pieces, but do not wash it; strew it over with pepper and salt, fty it brown. Make a seasoning of 2 anchovies, a sprig of thyme, a little parsley, a nutmeg grated, a little mace, a few cloves pounded, and a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel. Strew this over the hare, after having carefully taken it out of the pan clear of fat: slice 4 1b. of fat bacon very thin, put it into a jug or jar, a layer of hare and one of bacon upon it, until the whole is put in, then add rather less than 3 pint of ale; cover the jug very closely, so as perfectly to keep in the steam; Cuap. XIII. POULTRY AND GAME. 205 put it into a kettle of cold water, lay a tile on the top of the jug, and let it boil 38 hours if the hare be young, or 4 or 5 if anh old one. ‘Take the jug out of the kettle, pick out all the bacon which has not melted, and shake the hare up in a stew- pan, with a little mushroom-ketchup, a a glass of port wine, a little mushroom-powder if at hand, and a little butter and flour, well mixed together to thicken the gravy. Piscator on Fish, p. 8. Se ee ape Pee |e a Cuap. XIV. SALT-WATER FISH. 21t water ; when it boils, skim with the greatest care; throw in a little cup of cold water to check the extreme of heat, then keep it simmering only, lest the outside break before the thick and inner part be done; but “crimped fish” should be put into boiling water, and simmered a few minutes. ... AND SALADS. —'':-23071 great difference of opinion, that is, respecting the peeling of the roots, whether before or after their being boiled? In Lancashire, where they are largely grown and admirably boiled, they are first peeled; while in Ireland they are inva- riably brought to table “with their jackets on.” Count Rumford also recommends their being boiled in their skins ; the “ Cuisinier Bourgeois” likewise thinks that “les pommes de terre sont meilleures en robe de chambre.” The principles on which such opposite opinions are sup- ported are these :—The retention of the skin is upheld upon the supposition that, if it be taken off, the potato will imbibe the water and become waxy; while, on the other hand, it is insisted that the potato, if peeled, not only dees not imbibe the water in which it is boiled, but actually exudes the juice: which it contains, and which is thought to be poisonous. On both these points we have made repeated experiments. to discover any perceptible difference in the appearance of the root, which is always equally floury or waxy; but we think that it retains a little more flavour when the skin is not taken off before boiling: that is, however, so trifling, that in our own practice we always peel them first, as being more cleanly, and avoiding the trouble of doing it when dinner is to be served, besides the chance of the potatoes being made cold. TO KEEP POTATOES. 378.—Buy them as dug from the ground, without taking off the earth which adheres to them, and never wash them until wanted to be dressed. Place them in a dry cellar, upon straw, and cover them in winter with straw or mats, to guard them from the frost. NEW POTATOES 379.—Should be dressed as soon as possible after being taken from the’ ground, and are always best when grown in frames. When washed, they should be rubbed with a coarse cloth and a little salt, to take off the thin outer skin, but they should not be peeled. Put them into boiling water, they will require but a few minutes to do them; send them to table in a hot napkin, unless covered with white sauce, which should be seasoned with a little salt and a slight grating of nutmeg. When quite young they should never be sliced nor fried. POTATO-FLOUR. 380.—Rasp the potatoes into a tub of cold water, and 302 MODERN DOMESTIC conte Guar. XVI am change it repeatedly until the raspings fall to the bottom like a paste; then dry it in the air, pound it in a mortar, and pass it through a hair sieve. It is nearly as nutritive, and much lighter than wheaten flour; it is, therefore, preferable for making puddings and pastry for infants and invalids ; a portion of it also improves the appearance of household bread, and dealers constantly pass it off as arrowroot. If kept dry, it will remain good for years. POTATO-JELLY 381.—Is made from the flour, only boiling water must be poured upon it, but care must be taken that it be absolutely boiling, or the ‘complete change into jelly will not take place. It does not take many minutes to thus change a raw potato into this substance, which is not only highly nutritive, but. extremely agreeable to the palate when flavoured with a little sugar, nutmeg, and white wine. POTATO-WALL, 382.—Or edging, to serve round fricassees, forms also a pretty addition to a corner dish—Mash in a mortar as many boiled potatoes as you may want, with a good piece of butter ; then, with the bowls of two silver spoons, raise a wall of it 23 inches high within the rim of the dish to be used. Let the upper part be a little thinner than the lower; smooth it; and, after brushing it all over with egg, put it into the oven to become hot and a little coloured. Before egging it, the out- side may be ornamented with bits of paste cut into shapes. TO MASH POTATOES. 383.—Let them be thoroughly boiled, peel them, and take out all the specks and little hard lumps which are sometimes found. Beat them till quite fine in a wooden bowl or mortar, or break them thoroughly with a 3-pronged fork; sprinkle a little salt, and mix them up smoothly with butter or boiling milk. Take care that the potatoes shall not be too wet, or they will become heavy and watery; great smoothness, light- ness, and a rich taste are required in mashed potatoes: if required to be very fine, rub them through a colander or sieve before adding the boiling milk and butter. Or :—As in India: Mash some potatoes, and, having boiled 1 or 2 onions, chop them small, together with a few capsicums. Mix the whole well together; put it into a mould, or form it _ Guar. XVII. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 363 with a spoon into a handsome shape, and warm it in an oven or upon a stove. OLD POTATOES TO LOOK LIKE YOUNG ONES. 384.—Wash some large potatoes, and, with a small scoop made for the purpose, form as many diminutive ones as will filla dish; boil them in 2 or 8 waters about 8 minutes each time, the water being put to them cold; then let them steam till tender; pour a white sauce over them, and serve with the second course. Old potatoes prepared thus have been mis- taken for young ones at the best tables. POTATO-LOAVES 385.—Are very nice when eaten with roast beef or mutton, and are made of any portion of the mashed roots, prepared without milk, by mixing with them a good quantity of very finely minced raw shalot, powdered with pepper and salt; then beating up the whole with a little butter to bind it, and dividing it into small loaves of a conical form, and placing them under the meat to brown, that is, when it is so nearly done as. to impart some of the gravy along with the fat. TO BROWN POTATOES. 386.—While the meat is roasting, and an hour before it is- served, boil the potatoes and take off the skins; flour them well, and put them under the meat, taking care to dry them from the dripping before they are sent to table. ‘The kidney potatoes are best dressed in this way. ‘The flouring is very essential. Potatoes, when boiled, if either waxy, or to be eaten with cold meat, should be peeled and put whole upon the gridiron until nicely browned. Potatoes should always be boiled a little before being put into stews, &c., as the first water in which they are cooked is thought to be of a poisonous quality. Fried Potatoes should always be cut from raw potatoes: peel them and cut them in rings the thickness of a shilling, or, if the cook is clever, she will cut the whole slice of potato in one continuous piece like a shaving, in the same way as a mushroom is turned; throw them into cold water until you have sufficient; drain on a cloth; fry quickly, in plenty of hot fat, and with as little colour as possible; dry them well _ * an 304 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Czar. XVHI,_ from the grease, and sprinkle with salt. When nicely done, and piled up properly, fried potatoes make a beautiful side dish, which is always eaten with great relish. Or :—Cut a potato in pieces lengthways the size and shape of the divisions of an orange, trim them neatly and fry them ; they are an excellent garnish for fried fillet of beef. Or :—Cold Potatoes may be cut in slices somewhat less than 4 inch thick, and fried in like manner. Some persons also fry them with onions, as an accompaniment to pork chops, sliced cod, red herring, or with a rasher of bacon. . ROASTED POTATOES 387.—May be either done in a Dutch oven or put into the ashes of a wood fire. They should not be peeled, and require a long time: if large, and the fire not very strong, a couple of hours will not be too much. They are usually eaten with cold butter at supper. Potato-balls.—Bake the potatoes, mash them very nicely, make them into balls, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, and put them into the oven or before the fire to brown. These balls may be varied by the introduction of a third portion of grated ham or tongue. POTATOES A LA MAITRE DHOTEL.—E. R. 388.—Boil and peel the potatoes; let them grow nearly cold; then cut them into slices tolerably thick, and warm them up in white sauce or melted butter, with parsley chopped ; put into it a little white pepper and salt, and the juice of $a lemon. Or :—Boil the potatoes, and let them become cold, then cut them into rather thick slices. Puta lump of fresh butter into a stewpan, adda little flour, about a teaspoonful for a moderate- sized dish ; when the flour has boiled a short time in the butter add a cupful of water and a little cream; boil all together, then put in the potatoes covered with chopped parsley, pepper, and salt; stew them for a few minutes, and then take them from the fire; add a little lemon-juice, and send to table. PUREE OF POTATOES. 389.—Mash the potatoes, and mix them while quite hot with some fine white gravy drawn from veal, together with butter and cream. ‘The purée should be rather thin, and seasoned with salt, a very little pepper, and an atom of nutmeg, id kee Cuar. XVIII. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 305 POTATO OMELETTE 390.—May be made with a mashed potato, or 2 oz. of potato- flour and 4 eggs, and seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg. It should be made thick; and, being rather sub- stantial, a squeeze of lemon will improve it. Fry a light brown. POMMES DE TERRE FARCIES. 391.—Bake the potatoes; and, when nearly done, cut off a circular piece from the upper part, and scoop out a portion of the pulp, leaving about an inch of thickness under the peel. Then have ready any well-minced fricassee or foreemeat you please, butter the inside of the potato, and fill up the cavity with the mince heaped to a round, touch it over with raw yolk of egg, and put the potatoes again in the Dutch oven, or brown them with a salamander. ‘The skins should be rubbed with butter to render them crisp, or they will probably have become too hard to be peeled without breaking the potatoes, but if not, a portion of it should be cut off. GREEN PEAS.—E. R. 392.—Boil them very fast in plenty of water with the lid off the stewpan; the water should be moderately salted. They are unfit for eating when they become hard and yellowish, but when growing rather old a very small quantity of carbonate of ammonia put into the water, with 2 or 3 lumps of loaf-sugar, will greatly improve them. The old English method cf putting a sprig of mint, or a little parsley, is still a good practice, and ought to be continued unless specially forbidden, or the mint may be chopped and put round the dish. A few bits of raw butter should also be put into the peas when boiled, and a dust of pepper and salt thrown over them if they be completely ripe ; but if quite young, neither butter, salt, nor pepper should be added to them, but a teaspoonful of pounded white sugar. When growing to maturity, the pods are of different ages, and young and old peas should not be boiled together ; sift them, therefore, from each other, and put the old ones into the water some minutes sooner than the young: they require from 15 to 20 minutes boiling. , TO STEW GREEN PEAS. 393.—Cut,a cucumber in slices, and brown it in fried butter with 2 onions cut very small, to which put 1 quart of peas, a - 0 eee ~ oe > ae aa * 306 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XVIII. little pepper and salt. Let all stew slowly for an hour or more without any water, the stewpan being merely greased, or a bit of butter put in if the cucumber should not yield sufficient juice: when nearly done, add a teaspoonful of essence of ham: keep the pot closely covered while stewing. With Mint.—Take the hearts of 4 cabbage lettuces, cut them small, put them into a stewpan with 3 pints of young green peas and a little green mint chopped; add pepper and salt; then take a lump of butter the size of an egg, and mix it well with the vegetables, taking care not to bruise the peas; then add 2 tablespoonfuls of pump water, a bit of ham, and a whole onion. Put them on the fire to stew until tender; 20 minutes will suffice; shakiug the pan constantly to prevent its burning: when tender, take out the ham and onion, and add a piece more butter rolled in flour and 3 pint of cream; boil all together for 5 minutes, and add a teaspoonful of pounded loaf-sugar. When old.—Steep them in water all night, if not fine boilers ; otherwise only an-hour: put them into water enough just to cover them, with a good bit of butter, or a piece ot beef or pork. Stew them very gently till the peas are soft, and the meat is tender: if it is not salt meat, add salt and a little pepper. Serve them round the meat. TO PRESERVE PEAS FOR WINTER USE. 394.—Shell, scald, and dry them: put them on tins or earthen dishes, in a cool oven, once or twice, to harden. Keep them in paper bags hung up in the kitchen. When they are to be used, let them lie an hour in water; then set them on with cold water and a bit of butter, and boil them till ready. Put a sprig of dried mint to boil with them. Mr. Appert’s method.—Hiave the peas gathered when ripe, for if too young they will be watery and not fit to keep. ‘The peas, when shelled, should be put into strong jars or open- mouthed bottles, and shaken, so as to make them sit closely together. This done, the jars must be very tightly corked and tied down. ‘The jars are then placed upright in a bain- marie, or any iron pot large enough to contain them, with hay placed between each, to prevent collision and breakage; the pot is filled with cold water up to the neck of the jars, placed * As practised in the kitchen of the Emperor of Russia. | Cuap. XVIII. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 307 upon the fire, and allowed to boil for 14 hour if in cool, moist weather, but for 2 hours if it be hot and dry. The jars should not be taken out of the pot until the water becomes cold. French beans and asparagus may be preserved in the same manner; they maintain their colour, but lose much of their flavour, and require a little sugar to improve it. BROAD OR WINDSOR BEANS. 395.— To boil.—Shell them, boil them until tender, with a good handful of parsley, then strain them; put a large piece of butter in the middle. ‘Toss the beans by shaking the pan upwards, so as to mix the whole well together. Serve with parsley and butter in a boat. Broad beans may be dressed, when young, with their skins on; but, if old, they should be blanched, which is done by the cook’s removing the skin without breaking the beans, and then putting them, with a bit of butter, for a few minutes into the stewpan to warm. To stew.—Take them when too old to dress any other way, boil them, and remove the tough outer skin by peeling it off after the beans are boiled; thicken some white broth with a little cream or flour and butter, add the beans to it, and stew them all together over the fire for a few minutes. Add pepper and salt to palate. ie SPLIT-PEAS PUDDING. 396.—Take any quantity, say 1 pint, of yellow split peas ; * allow them to remain in water the whole night before you wish to use them; after which, take them out and put them into a cloth so loose as to allow the peas to swell; boil them for 4 hours, or until they are quite tender, then rub them through a colander, so as to render them perfectly smooth; add to the pulp a lump of butter and some salt. After being well mixed put the peas again into a cloth, tie tightly, and boil for about % an hour. Pour over it melted butter. Or :—Pick the peas cleanly, then tie them loosely in a cloth, and plunge them into water whilst it is boiling very quickly. In 2 hours they will be soft; take them out and pound them in a marble*mortar; put in a lump of butter, a little pepper and salt, and tie them up very tightly in the cloth, * The meal made of peas and sold by all dealers saves much of the trouble of soaking and rendering the peas smooth. al 308 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. CaHap. XVIII. —_———. which should be well floured; let them boil 1 hour; pour melted butter over, and garnish with parsnips. 2 A richer pudding may be made if 2 well-beaten eggs are added along with the butter. It is served with boiled pork. CARROTS AND PARSNIPS. 397.—When young, wipe off the skin after they are boiled by drawing them through a cloth dipped in hot water; when old, scrape them first, and boil them with the salt meat. They require to be well done. They are a constant accompaniment to corned beef, and are excellent when both are eaten together cold. ‘They frequently also form part of stews and hashes, and make admirable soup when boiled down to a purée, in making which it should be observed that only the outer or scarlet rind of the carrot is to be used: the inner part should not, however, be lost, as it may be cut into small pieces and stewed. To stew Carrots.—Half boil, then nicely scrape, and slice them into a stewpan. Put to them 4a teacupful of any weak broth, some pepper and salt, 4 a cupful of cream, and a salt- spoonful of powdered sugar: simmer them till they are very tender, but not broken. Before serving, rub a very little flour with a bit of butter, and warm up with them. If approved, chopped parsley may be added 10 minutes before serving. Carrots & la maitre d’hétel.—Boil the carrots tender. Put a lump of butter into the bottom of a stewpan with a little flour; when it is browned, add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and a little gravy: then put in the carrots, and let them stew gently till served. Carottes au Sucre may be also made as an entremet thus :— Slice them small, and put them into a stewpan, in only water enough to cover them, with the peel of a lemon and about half their own weight of sugar. Let this stew until the syrup is reduced and thickens; then add the juice of the lemon, with 2 tablespoonfuls of white wine, and serve. To mash Parsnips.—Boil them tender; rub the skin off; then mash them into a stewpan with a little cream, a good piece of butter, pepper and salt. To fricassee Parsnips.—Scrape them; boil in milk till they are soft; then cut them lengthwise into bits 2 or 3 inches bd CHap. XVill. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 309 long, and simmer ina white sauce, made of 2 spoonfuls of _ broth, a bit of mace, 3 a cupful of cream, a bit of butter, and some flour, pepper, and salt. TURNIPS 398.—Should always be boiled whole, and put in much after either carrots or parsnips, as they require less boiling. When used in stews, they are cut into small pieces of the size of dice, or made into shapes with a little instrument to be found at all cutlery shops. isi They may be mashed in the same manner as parsnips ; but some persons add the yolk of a raw egg or two. They are also frequently made into a purée to thicken mutton broth. When quite young they. should be served up whole, and most generally covered with white sauce ; but in France they are very commonly fried, and made an accompaniment to roast ducks, around which they are placed in the dish; and, if not young, the old ones are cut into that shape. TURNIP-TOPS, 399.—When fresh cut, are frequently used as greens, and preferred by many, as they contain a pleasant degree of bitter. They should be nicely trimmed, carefully washed, and boiled quickly, but not too much. ‘BEET-ROOTS. 400.—Wash and brush them, but they must not be cut, as that would interfere with the colour. Boil them in plain water, and let them be thoroughly done. They are used either as garnish for salad or may be sliced and served cold with oil and vinegar. Stewed.—Boil the beet slowly, with the skin on, until tender. They will take at least an hour’s boiling, but must not be tried by the fork, as the juice should not be allowed to run out. Take the skin off, then cut in slices } inch thick, put them into a stewpan with a little broth and a spoonful of vinegar, and simmer till the gravy is tinged with the colour; then put it into a small dish, and make a round of the button-onions, first boiled till tender. ‘The flavour is richer and the colour finer when baked than when boiled. Or :—Bake it in an oven until it is quite tender, and, when cold, scrape off the outside coat, cut it in slices, and pour a - 310 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. xvi little vinegar over it; then put it into a stewpan, and cover it with gravy; stew gently for + an hour, and before serving thicken the gravy with a little cream. The sauce should be of a fine red colour; and perhaps it would be advisable to pound one or two slices in a mortar, to extract the juice. CABBAGES 401.—Are of various sorts and differently dressed, but the most common mode is plainly boiled. If the cabbage be large and old, or strong-flavoured, it will take an hour to boil. It should be boiled in 2 waters, removing the first when the cabbage is half done, and replacing it with an equal quantity boiling hot. The water should also be frequently skimmed. All green vegetables should be boiled uncovered. Sprouts, or Greens, will be done in 15 to 20 minutes, but do not require skimming. Brussels Sprouts are a small species of cabbage, not larger than a walnut, and growing upon a tall single stalk. They are boiled in a few minutes, and may be served up either plain or covered with white sauce. j Buttered Cabbage.—Boil the cabbage with a quantity of onions, then chop them together, season with pepper and salt, and fry them in butter. It is a rather homely but savoury - dish, and frequently used either with fried sausages laid over it or as an accompaniment to roast beef, and forms part of bubble and squeak. For Red Cabbage, see Pickles., To stew.—Boil a large cabbage, press it dry in a cloth, then cut it very finely, adding pepper and salt, and a few chives or green onions, also boiled separately and well chopped; put a lump of butter into a stewpan, let it melt, add the cabbage, and warm it together, stirring all the time; add a spoonful of gravy, and 1 of lemon-pickle, or the juice of 4a lemon; let it stew for a few minutes, and then serve it. OF LETTUCE . 402.—There are 2 sorts, the cabbage and the coss, both used in salads. ' Farcie a la Frangaise—Having cleaned the lettuces, tie them separately with a string, and boil them. Leave them 4 ie — es Guar. XVI. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 311 to drain and cool; then open the leaves and lay in farce or forcemeat between each leaf; tie them up carefully, and stew them gently in a braise made of thin slices of bacon, a carrot, an onion, a small bunch of sweet herbs, and a little good gravy. Skim the gravy, strain it, add a glass of white wine, reduce it, and let it be served quite hot. Or :—Take lettuces prepared as above, drain them tho- roughly, dip them in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, or make a batter the same as for thicllihincakes, adding a glass of brandy ; allow it to remain 4 hours before it is wanted, then dip in the lettuces and fry them in lard. ONIONS, _ 403.—Though all of the same species, are yet widely different in flavour, the Spanish being very mild and the English very pungent; but their taste may be much diminished by boiling them in 2 or 3 separate waters, In buying the former, always choose the larger sort, as having been probably grown in the south of Spain or Portugal, where the finest sort are produced. | To stew.—Peel, flour, and fry them gently of a fine brown, ~ but do not blacken them; then put them into a small stewpan, with a little gravy, pepper, and salt; cover and stew gently for 2 hours. : Roast Onions should be done with all the skins on, and par- boiled before being put before the fire. ‘They eat well alone, with only salt and cold butter, or with roast potatoes, and are better large than small. Though called “ roast,” the best way is to put them in a Dutch oven and turn them occasionally, so as to brown them equally. The half-grown, or smaller sort, are frequently dressed in this way, and served with roast mut- ton; and in France they are very commonly put round a dish of roast fowl. | Young Onions are generally eaten raw; but chives, scal- lions, and shalot are mostly used for salads, or various modes of seasoning and pickles. Of all these condiments, garlic has the highest flavour, and if delicately used imparts a fine savour to various sorts of soups and sauces; or if a clove of it be put into the shank of a leg or shoulder of mutton to be roasted, it will much im- prove its flavour. It is an excellent tonic, and is exten- sively used by the best cooks throughout the south of Europe ; 312 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar. XVII g but in England a prejudice prevails against it, in consequence ? either of the strength of its odour, or more probably of the coarseness with which our cooks employ it. LEEKS —- 404,.—Are generally looked upon as a species of onion, and, __ as such, commonly employed in the same manner, though é rather milder in flavour. If boiled in separate waters, changing __ it 8 or 4 times, until stewed quite tender, then served in white sauce, or quartered and placed upon toast like asparagus, they will eat nearly, if not quite, as delicate. SPINACH. 405..—Wash it well in different waters, pick off the decayed leaves, and boil it quickly in a large quantity of water and salt for } of an hour; when done, squeeze it very dry, chop it, put in the dish, and pour melted butter over it; season it with pepper and salt. ; Or :—Boil it in as small a quantity of water as will prevent its burning to the pan; then strain and press it well; put ite into a saucepan with a tablespoonful of gravy, a little pepper” — and salt, and a few drops of chili vinegar; stew it for 5 — minutes, chopping it all the time. ‘The spinach may be boiled the day before, and is better for being so. Stewed with Cream.—Boil the spinach as before directed, chop it very fine, and beat it well with a spoon, taking care to have picked out all the fibres; put it into a stewpan with a piece of butter, some pepper and salt, a little nutmeg, and a very small quantity of pounded sugar; stir it well as it stews, adding by degrees as much cream as will make it the proper thickness. Garnish with fried paste. A la Frangaise.—Wash the spinach, and pick it very care- fully ; then put it into boiling water, and when sufficiently tender to bear squeezing, strain it through a colander; then throw it into cold water to preserve the colour. When it is quite cold, squeeze it in a towel, not in any large quantity at atime. Take out the stems, chop the spinach very fine, and then put it into a stewpan with a piece of butter and some very rich gravy ; add pepper, salt, and a little mace or nutmeg, and boil it rather fast, stirring it all the time; the thickness will depend ° upon the quantity of the sauce. It is also very generally CHar. XVUI. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 313 dressed with cream and a little white sugar, as an entremet of great delicacy. It may be thus used alone, or with sippets, frequently with fricandeaux. A very pretty mode of serving it is to place it in the centre of a small dish, with fried lamb chops around it, standing on end with the long bones meeting together. GOURDS AND POMPIONS. 406.—The tops of all the edible species, boiled as greens or spinach, are a more delicate vegetable than the fruit. SEA-KALE 407.—Is the earliest of our spring vegetables, coming into season a month or two before asparagus. It is extremely delicate, either plainly boiled as an accompaniment to house- lamb and white poultry, or served alone with white sauce, though a frequent mode is to bring it to table on toast, in the same way as asparagus: it takes the same time to boil—about 20 minutes. ‘Trim the ends like celery, brush out the dust, ie up in bundles, boil for 20 or 25 minutes, lay the tops upon toast, and pour melted butter over it. ASPARAGUS. 408.—Scrape the buds, and cut the white stalk off about 6 inches from the head; throw them into cold water, and after soaking tie them in small bundles, and boil them rather quickly. If overdone, the heads will be broken. ‘Toast a slice of bread very brown on both sides; and when the asparagus is done, take.it very carefully up, dip the toast quickly in the water, and lay the heads upon it, leaving the white ends outwards each way, and pour melted butter over the toast and green parts. To Fricassee.—Scrape the asparagus clean, and, having steeped it in cold water, cut off the eatable portion. ‘To 50 heads add 1 head of endive, a young lettuce, and a few chives, all 3 chopped ; put them into a stewpan with 2 oz. of butter; shake the pan while the butter is melting, and then dredge in a little flour, and season with pepper and salt; continue to shake the pan, and pour in a cupful of gravy; stew the whole until the sauce is very rich and thick, and then serve it up. Farcis.—Cut a piece out of the top of 3 French rolls, take out all the crumb, do not enlarge the opening, or the crust will P “a 314 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. CuHap. RVIT, not exactly fit again. ry the rolls brown, in fresh butter; have ready a pint of cream, the yolks of 6 eggs well beaten, a little salt and nutmeg. Stir this mixture over a slow fire until it thickens. Boil a hundred of small asparagus; save tops enough to stick the tops of the rolls with, cut the remainder of the green part of the grass small: put it into the cream, and fill the rolls with it hot. Before the rolls are fried, make a few holes in the pieces of crust cut off, and stick the tops in. This is for .a side-dish in a second course. In France asparagus is often eaten cold, as salad, with oil and vinegar. | In the hop districts of England, the buds, and so much of the stalk or bine of the plant as will break off short, are boiled and served up precisely as asparagus. _ In buying asparagus, the length of the green heads should be more looked to than their thickness. ARTICHOKES. 409.—Cut the stalk even, trim off a few of the outside leaves and the points of the others. If young, 4.an hour will boil them. Serve them with melted butter im as many small cori as there are artichokes, to help with each. Or :—Cut the artichokes in 4, remove the choke, trim the pieces neatly, boil them quickly in salt water, dish them, lay- ing the leaves outwards, and pour melted butter or white sauce over the bottoms. Stewed.—Strip off the leaves, remove the choke, and soak them in warm water for 2 or 3 hours, changing the water every hour; then put them into a stewpan with a piece of butter rolled in flour; a teacupful of gravy, and a spoonful or 2 of ketchup or other sauce; add a spoonful of vinegar, or, I of lemon-juice, before serving ; let all stew till the artichokes are quite tender, and, if necessary, thicken the sauce with a little more butter. Artichoke bottoms, if dried, must be soaked, then stewed in weak gravy, or baked and served with or without forcemeat in each. Or they may be boiled in milk, and served with” cream-sauce ; or added to ragotts, French pies, &c. They may also be dipped in batter and fried, then served with a sauce made of fine herbs, a spoonful of .oil, and the juice of lemon. »Cuar, XVIIL VEGETABLES ANI 315 A la Poivrade-——Take very small artichokes, cut them in quarters from the bottom, and remove the choke. Serve them in a little cold water, like radishes; make a sauce with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt: they have the flavour of nuts. g Artichauts farcis—Parboil the artichokes, remove the middle leaves, pare the choke, and stuff the centre with force- meat; then put them into the oven until the meat is quite done. Serve up with melted butter. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES 410.—Should be boiled, putting them at first into cold water, and must be taken up the moment they are done, or they will be too soft. They may be boiled plain, or served with white fricassee- sauce. When boiled, if rubbed through a sieve with a little fresh butter and cream, they form an excellent purée as a sauce for cutlets, or asa thickening for some sorts of white soup; or they may be sliced and fried. CUCUMBERS. - 411.—Stewed.—Peel them, slice them thick, or halve and divide them into 2 lengths; strew some salt and pepper and sliced onions; add a little broth, or a bit of butter; simmer very slowly ; and before serving, ifno butter was in before, put some, and a little flour; or if there was butter in, only a Little flour, unless it wants richness. Or :—Slice the onions and cut the cucumbers large ; fea them, and fry them in some butter ; then pour on some good broth or gravy, and stew them till done enough. a Farcis.—Take full-grown cucumbers, peel them, divide them lengthwise, remove the seeds, and replace them with any sort of forcemeat, seasoned witha few drops of chili vinegar ; then tie them together with thread; dip them in batter, and fry them. In Russia, cucumbers are preserved throughout the winter by being merely salted; and they are commonly eaten raw, as in England, but without vinegar, and unpeeled. VEGETABLE MARROW—E. R. ; 412.—May be dressed in a variety of ways—plain-boiled, cut in slices, and served upon toast, with melted butter ; or stewed ina good gravy; or boiled and mashed in the same sg ™. 316 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Oumar. XVIII. manner as turnips; and if made rather thinner, with a little cream or fine white sauce, formed into a purée, to thicken soup. These purées, it must be remarked, should not, when made of the marrow or any other vegetable, be served up alone, but put into the middle of a dish, with chops or fried poultry of some kind, as they properly come under the denomination of Sauce. +, To boil.—T he smallest are considered the best, but when they are about 5 or 6 inches long the fruit is more mature, - better flavoured, and the flesh whiter. Put them into boiling water with a little salt; boil them gently till quite tender, ‘and serve them, either whole or pared and halved, on a slice of bread toasted, with plain melted butter in a boat; or when cold they may be pared and sliced, then dipped in a batter made with an egg, a teacupful of water or milk beaten together, a little salt, and about + lb. of flour, or sufficient to make the ‘batter thick enough to adhere to the slices; or they may be brushed over with egg, and covered with fine bread-crumbs, and then fried. Arrange them neatly on a dish, and serve with melted butter. ¢ Stewed.—Pare off the outer skin; cut the gourd into slices | and then into dice, taking out the seeds. Scrape a little fat bacon, which put into a stewpan with a small onion or two, and a little parsley chopped fine. Cover the stewpan close, and fry gently from 5 to 10 minutes; then thicken with a spoonful of flour, and add a little veal broth to make the sauce the con- sistency of rich cream. Season with pepper and salt, replace the cover, and stew gently until quite tender. A mushroom ~ chopped small may be added. TO STEW CELERY. 413.—Wash the heads, and strip off their outer leaves ; either halve or leave them whole, according to their size, and cut them into lengths of 4 inches. Put them into a stewpan with a cup of broth or weak white gravy; stew till tender ; then add 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, a little flour and butter, seasoned with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little pounded white sugar; and simmer all together. » Or :—Parboil it, cut it into quarters, fry it, and serve it on a napkin, or with beef gravy. | Celery is a great improvement to all soups and gravies, and much used as a white sauce, either alone or with oysters. Cuar, XVII. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 317 = TO BOIL CAULIFLOWERS. 414.—Choose those that are close and white, cut off the green leaves, and look carefully that there are no caterpillars about the stalk ; soak an hour in cold water, with a handful of salt in it; then boil them in milk and water, and take care to skim the saucepan, that not the least foulness may fall on the flower. Jt must be served very white, and rather crimp. In White Sauce.—Take off the whole of the leaves of a cauliflower, and half-boil it; then cut it into handsome pieces, and lay them in a stewpan with a little broth, a bit of mace, a little salt, and a dust of white pepper; simmer 4 an hour, but let the stalk be put down } of an hour before the flower; then put a little cream, butter, and flour; shake, and simmer a few minutes, and serve. With Parmesan.—Boil a APG aes drain it on a sieve, and cut it into convenient sized pieces; arrange these pieces in a pudding-basin so as to make them resemble a cauliflower when turned on the dish: season it as you proceed; turn it on the dish, then cover it with a sauce made of grated parmesan cheese, butter, and the yolks of a couple of eggs, seasoned with lemon-juice, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; and put parmesan grated over it. Bake for 20 minutes, and brown it. Or :—Boil sprigs of cauliflower in butter and water to make them white, until they are tender ; then grate } lb. of parmesan cheese ; put nearly 4 into a stewpan with + lb. of butter, a little white pepper, and 2 spoonfuls of milk; toss it until the cheese is well mixed, then warm the cauliflower in it, and serve it up with the remainder of the cheese strewed over the top. BROCCOLI 415.—Is dressed in nearly the same manner: cut the heads with short stalks, and pare the tough skin off them; tie the small shoots into bunches, and boil them a shorter time than the heads. Some salt must be put into the water. Serve with or without toast. Poached eggs eat well with brocoli. BROCCOLI AND BUTTERED EGGS. - 416.—Keep a handsome bunch for the middle, and have 8 pieces to go round; toast a piece of bread to fit the inner part of the dish or plate ; boil the brocoli. In the mean time have 318 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cua. XVHT ready 6 (or more) eggs beatem; put, for 6, 4% lb. of fine butter into a saucepan, with a little salt; stir it over the fire, and, as it becomes warm, add the eggs, and shake the saucepan till the mixture is thick enough. Tour it on the hot toast, and lay the brocoli upon it. FRENCH BEANS. 417.—Cut off the ends and stalks; divide in half, or shred them, according to fancy; lay them im salt and water, and, when the saucepan boils, put them in with some salt. As soon as they are done, serve them immediately, to preserve the green colour. — Or :—When half done, drain the water off, put them into 2 spoonfuls of broth strained, and add a little cream, butter, and flour; stew gently till tender. Scarlet Runners, though less delicate, are by many pre- ferred to French beans. ‘They are boiled in the same manner for + of an hour or 20 minutes; and when tender, a good homely way of preparing them for the table is to place them for some short time in the dripping-pan under any meat that is roasting ; add pepper and salt; or, when boiled, mince and stew them in beef gravy. To boil, or rather simmer, as gently as possible, the seed of the dwarf scarlet runner.—Boil in soft water, for, should the water be hard, they will take 4 hours; and unless they are stewed gently, they will break and be spoiled. Put an onion shred fine into a stewpan, with a piece of butter rolled in flour ; let it stew until tender, then add the beans to it, with a little hot water; stir it until it simmers together for a few minutes ; then add a little salt, a tea or dessert spoonful of vinegar, a few chives or a shalot minced fine, and a sufficient quantity of parsley to give ita green colour. Serve up the beans very hot, either in a covered dish or under roast mutton. MUSHROOMS. 418.—Cooks should be perfectly acquainted with the dif- ferent sorts of things called by this name by ignorant people, as the death of many persons has been occasioned by carelessly using the poisonous kinds. The eatable mushrooms at first appear very small and of a round form, on a little stalk. They grow very fast, and the upper part and stalk are white. As the size increases, the Cuap. XVIII. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 319 ———— ee) under part gradually opens, and shows a fringed fur of a very fine salmon colour, which continues more or less till the mush- room has gained some size, and then turns to a dark brown. These marks should be attended to, and hkewise whether the skin can be easily parted from the edges and middle. Those that have a white or yellow fur should be carefully avoided, though many of them have the same smell, but not so strong, as the right sort. To stew.—The large buttons are best for this purpose, and the small flaps while the fur is still red. Rub the buttons with salt and a bit of flannel; cut out the fur, and take otf the skin from the others; put them into a stewpan with a little lemon-juice, pepper, salt, and a small piece of fresh butter, and let the whole simmer slowly till done; then put a small bit of butter and flour, with 2 spoonfuls of cream; give them one boil, and serve with sippets of bread. To fricassee.—Peel the mushrooms, which should be large, and broil them on a gridiron. When the outside is brown, put them into a stewpan with a little milk ; when they have stewed 10 minutes, add a spoonful of white wine and the same of browning; thicken it with butter and flour, and serve it up garnished with sippets. To broil_—The largest are the best. Have a clear cinder fire; make the gridiron hot, and rub the bars with suet to pre- vent the mushrooms from sticking; place them also on the gridiron with their stalks upwards; sprinkle them slightly with salt and a good shake of pepper, and serve them on a hot dish, with a little cold butter under and over them. When they begin to steam they are sufficiently done. To make a Purée of Mushrooms.—Cut off the stems, but retain the heads and cleanse them. Put a little water into a stewpan, and squeeze into it the juice of a lemon; put in the heads and drain them; mince them as fine as possible; put a piece of butter into a stewpan; squeeze the juice of a lemon, and add to it the minced mushrooms. Keep it on the fire until the butter is melted; then add 6 spoonfuls of strong gravy, and the same of thick white sauce; reduce it until the purée is sufficiently thick; add a little pepper, and serve it up; or keep it for flavouring sauces, which it will greatly improve. Having thus disposed of the heads, then take the stems for 320 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XVIII. buttered mushrooms, or champignons au beurre. Rub them with a little salt to clean them, and rinse them in salt water; after which dry them with a cloth, and have ready about 2 oz, of fresh butter to every pint of stems. Put the butter into a stewpan over a cinder fire, until it begins to brown; then throw in the stems, and keep the pan on the fire for a few minutes until they become tender, continuing to shake them all the time, to prevent them from burning, and the butter from becoming oiled. Pile them in a small dish, and serve them in their own gravy, than which nothing can be finer. Some cooks flavour it with mace, and others, still more in- judiciously, with cayenne, either of which utterly spoils it. . TRUFFLES, 419.—Although enumerated among vegetables, are yet not known to be capable of cultivation, but are found under ground by pigs and dogs trained for the purpose. When sold in the shops they are of different qualities—the white, the red, and the black—and are, therefore, generally thought to be of dif- ferent species; but the difference arises from the period of their ripeness, as they are always dug up the moment they are found, and the black, being the most mature, always bear the highest price. Their chief use is to add a high flavour to sauces, farces, and pies, as 4 oz. simmered in a pint of gravy will greatly improve them. ‘They are also frequently em- ployed to stuff poultry. Morels are used for the same pur- poses. Stewed.—Wash and brush clean the truffles, put them in a stewpan with a little wine, a slice or two- of fat bacon, and a little good broth; let them boil gently until quite tender ; then serve them in a napkin dry, as you would roasted chest- nuts. FRIED HERBS (as in Staffordshire). 420.—Clean and dry a good quantity of spinach-leaves, 2 large handfuls of parsley, and a handful of green onions. Chop the parsley and onions, and sprinkle them among the spinach. Set them all on to stew, with some salt, and a bit of butter the size of a walnut: shake the pan when it begins to erow warm, and let it be closely covered over a close stove till done enough. It is served with slices of broiled calf’s liver, small rashers of bacon, and eggs fried; the latter placed on the herbs, the other in a separate dish. Cuap. XVII. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 321 HARICOTS BLANCS—E. R. 421.—Are the seeds of the white French bean. Though but little known in England, they are a very common dish throughout France, where they are generally stewed and served with white sauce. ‘They come to us in a dried state, and therefore are capable of keeping for 12 months, beyond which time it is not desirable to keep them, as they then require so much soaking that the flavour is destroyed. They always require a few hours’ soaking before being dressed; the usual mode in this country is to put them into cold water, boil them for an hour, and send them to table in plain white sauce, sea- soned with pepper and salt, or sometimes with chopped parsley and a few grains of sugar. A V Hollandaise.—Pick and well clean the haricots; put them into a pot with cold soft water and a bit of butter. While on the fire, add cold water to soften and prevent their boiling. When well softened, drain them; put them into a saucepan with a bit of butter and some boiled and strained onions cut in dice, a little highly-seasoned gravy-soup, salt, and coarse pepper. Shake them well, and finish with a little more butter. Spanish receipt for Haricots Blancs, or Garbanzas.—Pour hot water on the beans, and soak them for 24 hours; then boil them with some lettuce or parsley, and a little ham, till the are tender. ‘Then fry some chopped onions and a little bit of garlic, and put them in a pot. A few minutes before they are wanted pound some toasted bread with ‘some of the beans ; then mix them with an egg, add spice, and pour them into the pot ; warm and send them up to table. TO DRESS CHESTNUTS FOR DESSERT. 422.-—Let them be well roasted, and the husks taken off. Dissolve ¢ lb. of sugar in a wineglassful of water, and the juice ofa lemon. Put this and the chestnuts into a saucepan over a slow fire for 10 minutes; add sufficient orange-flower water to flavour the syrup; serve ina deep dish, and grate sugar over them. To be handed round whilst quite hot. TO DRESS CARDOONS, OR CHARDONS. 423.—Cut them into pieces of 6 inches long, scrape them as asparagus, tie them in bundles, boil till tender, and have ready Pd a 322 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar. XVIII. a piece of butter in a pan; flour, fry them brown, and serve in a rich brown sauce. Or :—Boil in salt and water, dry, then dip them into batter, and fry them. Serve with melted butter. Or :—Parboil, and then stew in brown or white gravy; add cayenne, lemon-juice, and salt. Thicken with a bit of butter and flour, have a marrow-bone boiled, cut the marrow in slices, and strew over the top of the chardons. SALSIFIS, SKIRRETS, AND SCORZANERA, 424,—Are not much known in England, though all good, and deserving of more general cultivation. ‘The salsifis are white, and not unlike small parsnips, and ripen the first year, whilst scorzanera is black, and requires 2 years in coming to perfection; but it is preferable of the two. In flavour they somewhat resemble Jerusalem artichokes. They are much cultivated in France, and appear in the markets as a very late winter or early spring vegetable. Scrape them and throw them into water with a little lemon- juice squeezed into it to keep them white; boil in milk-and- water; serve with melted butter or white sauce; or stew them in rich brown gravy; or, when boiled tender, dip in batter and fry quite crisp. TOMA TA, 425.—Or “love-apple,” is now coming very generally, and deservedly, into use, either pickled, made into ketchup, or served alone. There are two species of tomatas at present cultivated in this country, the red and the yellow. The time of their ripening is from the middle of August to October, or until the frost sets in, which mostly destroys them. The large red are much esteemed for stewing or eating, though for pickling and preserving the smaller varieties are by some considered preferable. They make an excellent ‘Sth and may be either stewed, or roasted in a Dutch oven for } of an hour, and form a good accompaniment to any roast meat, as they contain a awery deli- cate flavour of acidity. A. few tomatas, when simply stewed in a little gravy, sea- soned only with salt, or mixed with a little celery, are a very pleasant vegetable; if not very small, 3 or 4 will be sufficient for a moderate party. Cuar. XVII. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 325 To stew.—Slice the tomatas into a well-tinned stewpan, seasoning them with pepper and salt; place bits of butter over the top. Put on the lid close, and stew gently for about 20 minutes. After this stir them frequently, letting them stew until they are well done. A spoonful or two of vinegar will be considered an improvement by many. Excellent with roast beef or mutton. Or :—Put in only sufficient tomatas to cover the bottom of the saucepan, add gravy or broth to nearly cover them, let them stew very gently until well done;- then strain off the gravy, thicken it with butter mixed with flour, put the tomatas on a dish, and pour the gravy over. Zo bake.—Slice them into a baking-dish ; season, put butter over in bits, and strew bread-crumbs on the top. Bake them for about ¢ of an hour in a moderate oven. To stuff—Cut them in halves and hollow out the centre; take whatever cold meat may be at hand, either chicken, par- tridge, or hare, with ham, &c., onions, fine herbs, crumbs of bread, and form a foreemeat-ball with beaten eggs; fill up the centres of the tomatas, and let them stew gently in any gravy; before serving up, pass them over with a salamander or hot iron. A favourite mode of dressing them in Portugal, where they are largely grown, is, to stew them along with rice and onions in strong brown gravy; the rice forming the greater portion of the dish. There are also various other ways employed throughout the Continent, but garlic should never be added, as it destroys the delicacy of the tomata. SAUER KRAUT, 426.—Or Sour-crout, as it is called in this country, is a German preparation of cabbage, fermented in layers, between which salt is laid, and the whole pressed closely down with weights for a few days, at the end of which it becomes acid, and the greater part of the juice is drawn off. In preparing it, the outward leaves and the stalk are removed, the latter being sliced, and the whole cabbage cut into small pieces, which are pressed heavily down, and placed in barrels in a warm cellar until the fermentation is over: when that is complete, put the kraut into a cool place, and it will remain good for years. Some people think it improved by a mixture 324 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XVIIz. among the layers of carraway, whole pepper, and juniper- berries, or the barrels smoked with the latter. It is extensively used throughout the northern parts of Europe, as a pleasant vegetable, particularly with salted meats and sausages; and is considered so excellent an antiscorbutie that it is largely employed in our navy. It requires nothing but care in the making; and, when properly prepared, may be served at any gentleman’s table. Boil it for 2 hours, and skim the water; or change the water for gravy, and stew it. CHICOREE, OR ENDIVE, au Velouté.—E. R. 427.—Take off the exterior of the endive, leaving nothing but the white; let it lie in water to soak; have it thoroughly washed; then throw a handful of salt into a kettle of boiling water, keeping the endive under the water to prevent its turn- ing black; when it will mix with the water it is blanched; try with the finger it it be tender, and, if so, drain it on a sieve, and put it in cold spring water; when perfectly cold, strain it again, and squeeze it quite dry. Chop it, put a good piece of butter in a stewpan with the endive, a little salt and pepper ; put in some velouté; let it reduce till it becomes thick; send it up with croutons. SORREL 428.—Forms an excellent accompaniment for young meat, or for anything the flavour of whichis improved by its acidity, and is used very commonly in France, both as sauce and as a separate dish, prepared with cream in the same manner as spinach. Or :—Take any quantity of the leaves, washed clean, boil them tender in water, and pass them through a tamis; put them into a stewpan with a slice of fresh butter and a few spoonfuls of white sauce ;. add salt and a little sugar. There are two sorts of the plant, the French and English ; the former bearing a small round leaf, and the latter much longer, as well as duller in colour: the French is much the best. VEGETABLE RAGOUT.—E. R. 429.—Cut cold potatoes, carrots, turnips, cabbage, onions, and any other vegetables at hand into slices; put them into a stewpan, with pepper and salt, a little broth, and a piece of butter, and stir them together with a spoon until they are quite Cuar. XVII. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 825 hot. In India a portion of the vegetables is taken from each dish, chopped up while hot with pepper and salt, and put into a silver saucepan, with a piece of butter; and, when well heated over a lamp, sent round the table. A VEGETABLE OLTIO. 430.—Boil 3 heads of small, close cabbage, carrots, turnips, potatoes, and small onions; drain them from the water, and cut them in pieces. Mix all with 2 handfuls of spinach- leaves, 2 oz. of butter, 3 spoonfuls of cream, a little salt and pepper, and stew them as closely. covered as possible 2 hours ; then stir in a bit of butter rolled in flour, over a clear fire. In summer, peas, cucumbers, spinach, celery, lettuces, and young onions may be dressed the same way. BREDIC OF VEGETABLES (a Dutch dish).—£. R. 431.—Brown 4 or 6 onions sliced and chopped in a little butter, then add different kinds of vegetables chopped, which have been previously boiled ; stew them all together, stirring the whole time. When half done, add a few tomatas sliced, with chilis also sliced, and salt to the taste; moisten if neces- sary with gravy, and either add a glassful of vinegar or a handful of sorrel. VEGETABLE CURRY.—E. R. 432.—Put 2 oz. of butter into a stewpan, then roll celery, onions, and brocoli in curry-powder, and stew them until tender ; add a cupful of good gravy, a small quantity of mashed potatoes mixed up with curry-powder, and salt. Stew the whole together until sufficiently done. Or :—Take brocoli, cauliflower, or any other vegetable, and boil it in water until tender; then throw out -the water, cut them in rather large pieces, and add either shrimps, prawns, or any minced meat, if you think proper to make such an addition ; or if not, then put some fried onions with a bit of butter, a pint of water, and the usual quantity of rice and curry-powder; stew all together and add lemon-juice to the taste. If the materials be well chosen, it will be found very delicate. 326 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. ' CHap. XVIII, SALADS. 433.—In this country salads are almost always eaten as an accompaniment to meat, and, being composed of green vege- tables, are seldom brought to table in winter; but on the Continent other preparations are introduced under that deno- mination. | Coss-lettuce and blanched endive make the best salad, the green leaves being stripped off, and leaving nothing but the close, white hearts, which, after being washed and placed for an hour or two in cold water, should be wiped quite dry. ‘To this should be added a head or two of celery, a couple of an- chovies (which are far preferable to the essence), and several chives, or young onions, all cut small, while the lettuces should be divided lengthwise into quarters, and cut. into rather large pieces. The mixture or dressing.—F¥or 4 persons bruise only the yolk of 1 hard-boiled egg (leaving out altogether the white), with some salt, and make it into a paste with 2 large tea- spoonfuls of motitarde de Maille, or any French mustard ; or, if obliged to use common mustard, add to it a drop or two of asafcetida, which will impart to it a slight flavour of garlic. — Then add oil and vinegar in the following proportions, with- out using so much as to make the sauce thin, and taking care to have the finest Provence or Lucca oil, and the very strongest species of real French vinegar: namely, to every 1 spoonful of vinegar add 2 of oil; 1 spoonful of the vinegar being im- pregnated with chilis, which will add warmth to the salad, much more agreeably than cayenne. A little of tarragon may be an improvement, and a spoonful of Quihi or walnut ketchup is not objectionable; but mushroom ketchup will destroy the pungency of flavour, and both may be left out without incon- venience. When this is done, mix the sauce well, but lightly, with the salad, to which a few slices of boiled beet-root, and the white of the egg sliced, will be a pretty addition. Kitchener's Salad Mixture, which is sold in the oil-shops in bottles ready prepared for use, is also very good, though not equai to that freshly made as above. Some people, particularly the French, eat lettuces without any other sauce than oil and vinegar, and, when eaten in that ee ee ee ee Cuap. XVII. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 327 simple way, a little sugar is certainly an improvement. But although these proportions of oil and vinegar are stated, as above, to suit the English palate, it must yet be observed that. in France the quantity of oil used in salads is invariably much more than double that of vinegar. The excellence of a salad consists in the vegetables being young and fresh, and they should be prepared only a short time before they are wanted; the salad mixture being either poured into the bottom of the bowl or sent up in a sauce- tureen, and not stirred up with the vegetables until they are served. In summer salads the mixture must not be poured upon the lettuce or vegetables used in the salad, but be left at the bottom, to be stirred up when wanted, as thus preserving the crispness of the lettuce. In winter salads, however, the reverse of this proceeding must be adopted, as thus: the salad of endive, celery, beet,. and other roots being cut ready for dressing, then pour the mixture upon the ingredients, and stir them well up, so that every portion may receive its benefit. In doing this, it should likewise be recollected that the spoon and fork should always be of wood, and of sufficient size to stir up the vegetables in large quantities.* CHICKEN SALAD. 434.—Pull the meat off the bones of a cold fowl or chicken, put it into a small pan with a shalot cut in thin slices, a few sprigs of parsley, and a tablespoonful each of oil and tarragon vinegar ; season the chicken well with pepper and salt; let it soak for about 3 hours. Boil 3 eggs hard, cut them in 4 pieces lengthways; chop 2 anchovies, 6 olives, and a dessert- spoonful of capers; take 3 lettuces, reserve the small hearts to garnish with, cutting them in 4, shred fine the other leaves that are white, and cut roughly some small salad; put a layer of salad on the dish, then the chicken, sprinkle the chopped anchovy, &e., then more salad and chicken until you have used up the whole of your materials; then mask it with a thick mayonnaise sauce: garnish it round the bottom with the lettuce-hearts and eggs alternately. This salad is much * As a substitute for egg in salad, rub down a dessertspoonful of a mashed potato with mustard and salt, and some cream or thick melted butter, which answers for oil when that is not at hand; then add the vinegar, ae cia ee it a a 328 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Car. XVIII. improved if the dish can be placed on pounded ice whilst it is being prepared. — The remains of veal and white poultry, when minced and left cold, instead of being fricasseed, will thus be found an excellent addition to the dinner of a summer’s day, with added slices of cucumber. LOBSTER SALAD. 435.—Break out the meat from a lobster; slice the tail $ an inch thick. Marinade it in oil and vinegar for 2 hours; have some lettuce and small salad shred ; make a layer at the bottom of the dish; put over that a layer of the lobster, seasoned with pepper and salt, repeating it until the dish is piled up. Make a border of hard-boiled eggs, cut in quarters round the dish, interspersed with sliced beet-root and cucumber, and a few fillets of anchovy. Pour over the top, when sending to table, some mayonnaise sauce. Crab, or shrimps, may be used in the same manner; and a great improvement in either will be found by throwing in a portion of savoury calf’s-foot jelly, divided into pieces. Although shell-fish are very decidedly the best mixture to “pe put into this salad, yet any sort of firm flat-fish, as turbot, brill, John-dory, or soles, which have been dressed, and left cold, may also be prepared in a similar way. French Salad.—Chop 3 anchovies, a shalot, and some . parsley small, put them into a bowl with 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 of oil, a little mustard, and salt. When well -mixed, add by degrees some cold roast or boiled meat in very thin slices; put in a few at a time, not exceeding 2 or 3 inches long. Shake them in the seasoning, and then put more ; cover the bowl close, and let the salad be prepared 3 hours before it is to be eaten. pi ftalian Salad is made by picking the white portion of a cold fowl from the bones in small flakes, piling it in the centre of a dish, and pouring a salad mixture over, enriched with cream ; make a wall around with salad of any kind, laying the whites of the eggs, cut into rings, on the top in a chain. Spanish Salad.—Take whatever salad can be got, wash it in many waters, shake it in a small net, or in napkins, till nearly dry, chop up onions and tarragon, take a bowl, put in equal quantities of vinegar and water, a teaspoonful of pepper * CHar. XVII. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 329 and salt, and 4 times as much oil as vinegar and Bd mix the same well together; take care never to put the lettuce into the sauce till the moment the salad is wanted, or it loses all its crispness and becomes sodden. On which Mr. Ford quotes a Spanish proverb which says, “To make a good salad four persons are wanted,—a spend- thrift for oil, a miser for vinegar, a counsellor for salt, and a madman to stiritall up.” Vegetable Salads, made of roots which have been boiled, also make good winter salads, amongst which potato salad is perhaps the best. Cut the roots into thin slices, season them. with pepper and salt, and pour over them the salad mixture,. to which may be added, if the flavour be not disapproved, a few slices of raw onion. For Vinaigrette.—Take any kind of cold meat, chop it. finely, and lay it in a dish; chop the whites of the eggs. employed for the salad very finely with small onions; add any kind of herb, and pickled cucumbers, all chopped finely : make a garnish round the meat, serve it with salad mixture, but do not stir it together, as it would spoil the appearance of the dish, which looks very pretty with the eggs and herbs in a ring. Beet-root, celery, Spanish onions, carrots, and brocoli may also in winter be cut small, and served with the same mixture. as that employed for vegetables in their raw state. In summer, purslain, an herb formerly much cultivated in England, is an excellent ingredient among the many raw materials; and tomatas boiled, left until cold, sliced, not very thin, and eaten either with or without onions and any other vegetable, also make a very nice salad, in either summer or winter, as they may be preserved nearly the whole year round. When very delicately made, cream or melted butter is sometimes substituted for oil in salads, as many persons object. to oil as disagreeing with their stomachs; but, in point of richness, its flavour is generally thought superior. 330 | MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Oxap. XIX. CHAPTER XIX. SAUSAGES AND FORCEMEAT. =e § ee SAUSAGES. 436.—SAvUSAGEs are composed of raw meat finely chopped, highly seasoned, and usually filled in small skins prepared for that purpose, although they may be made equally well without them. They may be made of a variety of meats, pork and beef being the most common—seasoning of course varying according to the taste of the maker. By many persons they are preferred rolled in balls, and then flattened in the hand, and fried either with egg and crumbs or not. The best way of keeping sausage- meat is to pack it in a clean, dry jar, kept in a cool larder. Common Sausage-meat.—Take any quantity of lean beef or pork, with half the quantity of fat, and having freed the lean of every particle of skin, sinew, and gristle, then mince both it and the fat as fine as possible; putting to each pound of meat a large teaspoonful of pepper and the same quantity of salt; strew this on the meat, and mix the whole thoroughly together, as a stock for seasoning other meat. Take 6 lbs. of meat, fat and lean; cut the fat into small pieces, and pound the lean portion in a mortar, with 2 table- spoonfuls of salt, 1 of moist sugar, a teaspoonful of saltpetre, and 2 tablespoonfuls of mixed spices. 'To this may be added the grated peel of a lemon, and a small portion of sage and thyme, well chopped. Or :—To the meat of a leg of pork of about 4 Ibs. weight add 2 lbs. of fat from the fore loin, chop both very fine; then add 2 nutmegs grated, 20 cloves, a teaspoonful of pounded or grated lemon-peel, 2 or 3 blades of mace pounded, 1 oz. of the best salt, and 4 oz. of black pepper; mix all together and stuff it into the skins, which should be well cleansed and salted the night before. This sausage-meat would be much improved for immediate use by pounding the meat and mixing it with a third portion of white bread soaked in milk and also pounded, blend- ing the whole together with a beaten egg. =" Cuar. XIX. SAUSAGES AND FORCEMEAT. 351 BEEF SAUSAGES, 437.—Though not nearly so good as those of pork, yet, if made at home, may be found a pleasant and economical mode of using the scraps of raw meat. Proceed as for pork sausages. MUTTON SAUSAGES.—E. R. 438.—Take a pound of undressed mutton, or that which has been underdone, chop it very small, and season it with pepper, salt, and beaten mace. Chop also 4 lb. of beef suet, 2 anchovies, a pint of oysters, + lb. of grated bread, and a boiled onion; mix the whole with the oyster liquor, and the whites and yolks of 2 eggs well beaten; pound the whole in a mortar. Roll into lengths, cakes, or balls, and fry them. THE CAMBRIDGE SAUSAGE. 439.—Cut into small pieces 1 lb. of pork, the same quantity of beef suet, 1 Ib. of beef and veal in equal parts, 4 Ib. of bacon fat, and % Ib. of the gammon.. Chop very finely a handful of sage-leaves, and add to them a fourth part of sweet herbs. Season the whole with mixed spice, adding a spoonful of cayenne pepper, and a due quantity of salt. Let the skin be well cleaned; fill it, and tie it tightly. Put it into a saucepan of boiling water, pricking it first to prevent its burst- ing, and allow it to boil 1 hour. AN EXCELLENT SAUSAGE TO EAT COLD. 440.—Season fat and lean pork with some salt, saltpetre, black pepper, and allspice, all in fine powder, and rub into the meat; the sixth day cut it small, and mix with it some shred shalot or garlic, as fine as possible. Have ready an ox-gut that has been scoured, salted, and soaked well, and fill it with the above stuffing; tie up the ends, and hang it to smoke as you would hams, but first wrap it in a fold or two of old muslin. It must be high-dried. Some eat it without boiling, but others like it boiled first. The skin should be tied in different places, so as to make each link about 8 or 9 inches long. OXFORD SAUSAGES.—E. R. 441.—Take 2 lbs. of lean pork, the same quantity of lean veal, 1 Ib. of suet chopped very fine and beaten in a mortar, with a French roll just wetted through with milk, 4 0z. 0 pepper, a little salt; mix all these ingredients well together, 332 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cwap. XIX, — and pot it. When wanted, beat up 4 eggs, mix the sausage- meat up in it, roll it into egg-shapes, and fry in a dry hot pan over a very quick fire. The eggs must only be added the day the sausage-meat is used. Another.—Take 1 lb. of young pork, fat and lean, without skin or gristle, 1 lb. of lean veal, and 1 Ib. of beef suet. Chop all fine together ; add 3 lb. of grated bread, $ the peel of a lemon shred fine, a small nutmeg grated, 6 sage-leaves washed and chopped very fine, a teaspoonful of pepper and 2 of salt, savory, and marjoram shred fine. # OYSTER SAUSAGES.—E. R. 442.—Take 1 lb. of veal and a score of oysters bearded, then pound the veal very finely in a mortar with a little suet, season with a little pepper, soak a piece of bread in the oyster-liquor, pound, and add it with the oysters cut in pieces to the veal; beat up an egg to bind them together, and roll them into little lengths, like sausages; fry them in butter a delicate brown. Or :—Take $ lb.-of lean mutton or beef, with ? Ib. of beef suet, and two score of oysters bearded. Mince the whole and add ’ pread-crumbs, with 2 yolks of eggs to bind the materials together. Season with salt, white pepper, a little mace, and mushroom powder. Put it either in skins, or hy the sausage-meat of a light brown in small pieces. VEAL AND POULTRY SAUSAGES. 443.—Sausages may also be made of the remains of veal, turkey, or fowl, which have been dressed. Of either of these put equal quantities of meat and bread-crumbs, with half that of ham, seasoned with parsley, lemon-thyme, and chives. Mix the materials with a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace, the yolk of an egg, and 4 a teaspoonful of flour; make it up as sausages or small rolls to garnish fricassees or minced meat, or as a nice supper dish, piled round a sweetbread. Or :—Chop equal quantities of lean veal and fat bacon, a handful of sage, a little salt and pepper, and a few anchovies, beat all in a mortar; and when used, roll and fry it, and. - serve it with fried sippets, or on stewed vegetables, or on ~ white collops. Cuap. XIX. SAUSAGES AND FORCEMEAT. . 833 FOWL OR RABBIT SAUSAGES.—E. R. 444,—Take the remains of a fowl, rabbit, or hare; when boiled or roasted, free it from the bones, and cut it small. Boil some onions in strong gravy; when the onions are quite soft, pound them, season with salt, pepper, parsley, 2 cloves, and a blade of mace; pound the meat also, cut some bacon into small pieces, and add it. Mix up these ingredients with the yolk of an egg, add a little lemon-juice or lemon-pickle, or chop a little sorrel with the herbs, fill the skins, and broil them. Sueh are the sausages usually made in this country, and most commonly eaten fresh; but, on the Continent, many sorts are made of a rather large size, seasoned in different modes, and smoked, with the intention of keeping them good for a long time, as the Brunswick, Bayonne, and Bologna, which may always be found in the foreign oil-shops in England. There is, however, another kind, which we do not recollect to have ever seen in London, though constantly used throughout the Peninsula. SPANISH AND PORTUGUESE SAUSAGES 445.—Are made from the fat and lean of the back and loins of a well-fed two-year-old hog, cut into small pieces of less than 4 inch square, and then either finely minced or pounded together, and strongly seasoned with cloves of garlic and green or red capsicums or chilis; but as these cannot always be con- veniently procured in this country, cayenne-pepper may be substituted. ‘The whole-should then be covered with any sort of strong, dry wine, until absorbed by the ingredients, which will occupy perhaps a few days, according to the quantity. Fill the largest skins you can get with the meat, fat and lean alternately, occasionally adding some of the wine. Tie up in links, and hang them in a room where they will not get damp or become too dry, and they will keep 12 months. They are sometimes fried, and eaten either alone or asa relish with poultry, but more frequently put into stews; and, in Spain, always boiled along with the olla, under the name of. ““ Chorisos.” BLACK PUDDINGS. 446.—The blood must be stirred with salt till cold. Puta quart of it, or rather more, to a quart of whole grits, to soa one night; and soak the crumb ofa quartern loaf in rather 334 ‘ MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XIX: more th an 2 quarts of new milk made hot. In the mean time prepare the skins by washing, turning, and scraping, with salt and water, and changing the water several times. Chop fine a little winter-savory and thyme, a good quantity of penny- royal, pepper, and salt, a few cloves, some allspice, ginger, and nutmeg; mix these with 3 lbs. of beef-suet, and 6 eggs well beaten and strained; and then beat the bread, grits, &c., all up with the seasoning: when well mixed, have ready some hog’s fat cut into dice, and, as you fill the skins, put it in at proper distances. ‘Tie in "Hinks only half filled, and boil in a large kettle, pricking them as they swell, or they will burst. When boiled, lay them between clean cloths, or upon straw, till cold, and hang them up in the kitchen. When to be used, scald them a few minutes in water, wipe, and put them into a Dutch oven. If there are not skins enough, put the stuffing into basins, and boil it covered with floured cloths; and slice and fry it when used. Or :—Soak all night a quart of bruised grits in as much boiling-hot milk as will swell them and leave 4 pint of liquid. Chop a good quantity of pennyroyal, some leaves of sage, savory, and thyme, with salt, pepper, and allspice finely powdered. Mix the above with a quart of the blood, prepared as before directed; then half fill the skins, after they have been cleaned thoroughly, and put as much of the flare (that is, the inward fat) of the pig as will make it pretty rich. Boil as before directed. A small quantity of leeks, finely shred and well mixed, is a great improvement. WHITE PUDDINGS—E. R. 447.—To 2 parts of beef-suet chopped add 1 \part of oatmeal previously toasted before the fire; boil an onion or 2, and chop them with pepper and salt; mix the whole well. together, put the ingredients into skins, and boil them for an hour, pricking them as they boil to prevent their bursting. They will keep for some time in bran after they have been allowed to become cold. Parboil them when wanted, and * then broil them on a gridiron. The quantity of suet may seem disproportioned to the oat- _ meal; but unless there are two-thirds of the former to one of the latter, the puddings will be dry and bad. They — to be highly seasoned with pepper and onions. Guar. XIX. SAUSAGES AND FORCEMEAT., ' 300 FORCEMEAT. French cooks pride themselves, and very justly, on the pains which they bestow on the elaboration of their forcemeat, or farce. It is an art in which they have attained superior excellence, but in which there is no great difficulty. At many tables, where everything else is well done, it is very common to find indifferent stuffing or forcemeat. A general fault is, that the tastes of lemon-peel and thyme over- come all others, therefore they should only be used in small quantities; and except in a few very savoury dishes, cayenne and pepper of all kinds should be sparingly used. No one ~ flavour should predominate greatly: yet if several dishes be served the same day, there should be a marked variety in the tastes of the foreemeats as well as of the gravies. The forecemeat should be consistent enough to be cut with a knife, but not dry and heavy. Herbs are a very essential in- eredient, and it is the copious but judicious use of them that chiefly gives the cookery of the French its superior flavour. Bacon or butter must always be substituted for suet when the forecemeat is to be eaten cold. ) The flavour given to the bread, or panada, is considered to be of great importance, and the highest point of perfection may be obtained by attending to the following directions :— PANADA. 448,—Put into a small stewpan 1 oz. of fresh butter, a table- spoonful of chopped mushrooms, a little chopped thyme and parsley, 4a blade of mace, pepper and salt; stew the whole over the fire for a few minutes, then add to it a spoonful of white broth, the crumb of 2 French rolls previously soaked in milk and squeezed thoroughly dry; stir over the fire until it no longer adheres to the stewpan; take it off, add the yolks of 2 eggs, turn it out and leave it to cool; it is then ready for use. UDDER. 449,—Boil a ealf’s udder in broth or water; when cold, trim off the outside, pound, and rub through a sieve. QUENELLE. 450.—This is one of the most delicate preparations of force- _ meat that we have, and requires practice, care, and attention — 336 ° MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XIX. to make it in perfection. It is called according to the meat of which it is composed : quenelles of rabbit, chicken, fish, or ame. i Take the meat of 2 rabbits, pound it and rub it through a sleve; take one-third less of panada and also of udder or very © sweet fresh butter, pound these for + of an hour, add a tablespoonful of white sauce, 2 eggs, and 2 yolks; take a small piece, roll it ina ball, and throw it in boiling water ; when done it should cut firm and consistent, yet light and delicate; if more seasoning is required it should be added before it is taken out of the mortar. To mould them: have 2 tablespoons, fill 1 with the farce, shape with a knife, dipping it in boiling water to make it perfectly smooth ; dip the other spoon in hot water, with which take out the quenelle and lay it in a buttered stewpan; they should be egg-shaped, and perfectly smooth, and boiled for ¢ of an hour. Panada for Fish Quenelle, or Forcemeat.—Put two-thirds of 4 pint of water into a stewpan holding a quart, with nearly - 1 oz. of butter; when boiling, stir in ¢ 1b. of flour; keep it moving’ over the fire until it forms a smooth and tough paste. Take it off the fire, add the yolks of 3 eggs. When cold, use it where directed. FORCEMEAT. 451.—Take 14 Ib. of lean veal, pound it, and pass it through a sieve; 1 lb. of chopped beef suet, and 6 oz. of panada, pounded well together; add the veal, season with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg; mix well; then add the yolks of 6 eggs and the whites of 8; when these are thoroughly mixed, whisk the other 3 whites of eggs to a very stiff froth, and add it to the forcemeat; when all is well mixed together, it is fit for use. Another.—Take equal quantities of cold chicken, veal, and beef, shred very small, and mixed together ; season with a mode- rate quantity of pepper, salt, sweet herbs, and grated nutmeg, if intended for white meat, or for anything delicately flavoured ; but if meant for a savoury dish, add a little minced ham, and an atom of garlic or a shalot. Put the whole in a stone mor- tar, and pound it quite fine; then make it into a paste with a raw egg and a small quantity of butter. When used, it may either be rolled into round balls and fried for any made dish, Cuap. XIX. SAUSAGES AND FORCEMEAT. 337 or put into any joint of meat or poultry as stuffing; and if kept in a cool place, and well seasoned, it will keep gocd for several days. FARCE CUITE.—E R. 452.—Cut in small pieces some undressed fowl; put them into a stewpan with a piece of butter, a little salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg ; shake them over the fire for 10 minutes, drain, and let them cool. Put an equal portion of crumbs of bread in the same stewpan with some broth, and a little parsley chopped fine; stir it with a wooden spoon till it becomes quite soft. Let it get cold, then pound the fowl until it will pass through a tamis; pound the bread also, and put it through the sieve; then put equal parts of the meat, butter, and bread together, and pound them with yolks of eggs sufficient te make it into a proper consistency, and keep it in a jar for use. FARCE OF VEAL AND HAM—E. R. 453.—Bacon and veal which have been used in braising, or anything highly impregnated with the flavour of herbs and onions, and very rich, may be employed afterwards as a farce, pounded and mixed with panada. Shred a little ham or gammon, some cold veal or fowl, some beef-suet, a small quantity of onion, some parsley, very little lemon-peel, salt, nutmeg or pounded mace, and either white pepper or cayenne, and bread-crumbs. Pound it ina mortar, and bind it with 1 or 2 eggs, beaten or strained. For forcemeat patties, the mixture as above. Or :—Mince equal quantities of ham and veal; put it ina stewpan with chopped parsley, a very little thyme and knotted marjoram, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; let it stew very gently. Pound it fine, add bread-crumbs in the proportion of three parts farce to one of bread-crumbs, and sufficient yolks of eggs to bind it. STULIFING. 454.—Take equal quantities of beef-suet and crumbs of bread ; chop the suet very finely ; chop together marjoram, thyme, and parsley, having as much parsley as there is thyme and marjoram together; add to them a saltspoonful of grated lemon-peel, pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg ; add eggs sufficient to bind it together. _ for Hare, or anything in imitation of it—The scalded liver, an anchovy, some fat bacon, a little suet, some parsley, Q 335 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar. XIX. thyme, knotted marjoram, a little shalot, and either onion or chives, all chopped fine; crumbs of bread, pepper, and nut- meg, beat in a mortar with an egg. Fish Forcemeat.—Chop, and afterwards pound in a mortar, any kind of fish, adding an anchovy or two, or a teaspoonful of the essence of anchovies, but do not allow the taste to prevail, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg. Jf for matgre, pound butter with it; but otherwise, the fat of bacon pounded sepa- rately, and then mixed. Adda third portion of bread, pre- pared by soaking and pounding previously, and mix the whole up with raw eggs. For mackerel, pike, haddock, and soles, take the veal forcemeat, add a little anchovy essence, and use rather less herbs. Oyster Forcemeat.—Take a dozen natives, strain them from the liquor, mince them, and add ¢ lb. of finely-grated bread- crumbs, 14 oz. of butter broken very small, a dessertspoonful of parsley, the grated rind of 4 a lemon; season with a little mace, cayenne, and salt; mix well; then bind together with. the yolk of an egg unbeaten, and a little of the oyster liquor. Care must be taken that the oyster flavour predominates. Seasoning for Stuffing.—| lb. salt dried and sifted, 3 oz. ground white pepper, 2 oz. dried thyme, 1 oz. dried marjoram, and 1 oz. nutmeg. When this seasoning is used, parsley only is required to be chopped in sufficient quantity to make the stuffing green. The proportions are— 4 lb. bread-crumbs, 3 eggs, + Ib. suet, 4 0z. seasoning, and peel of + a lemon grated. ‘This preparation of herbs will be found very useful, and also good flavoured if kept in a closely-corked bottle. FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR SOUP MAIGRE. 455.—Forcemeat balls for meagre soups of any description should be always used to compensate for the savour of which they are deprived by the want of meat-broth ; and may be made of fish and sweet herbs, or only of herbs and crumbs of bread, in the following manner :— , Pound in a mortar the soft parts of a crawfish, or a few shrimps, with an anchovy, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, beaten up with crumbs of stale bread, pounded mace, cayenne pepper, salt, and a very little finely-minced garlic. Then work it up into a paste with a raw egg to bind it into dough ; roll it out, cut it into small balls of the size of marbles, and fry them of a fine brown. Cuap. XIX. SAUSAGES AND FORCEMEAT. 339 Or :—Leave out the fish, and make them entirely of bread and savoury chopped herbs—chervil, tarragon, marjoram, and thyme, with a little garlic and a shalot—and bind them up as above, with egg, butter, and crumbs of bread. Or :—Chop, and afterwards pound in a mortar, any kind of fish, adding an anchovy or two, or a teaspoonful of the essence of anchovies, but do not allow the taste to prevail, and the yolk of a hard-boiled ege : pound butter with it; add a third portion of bread, prepared by soaking and pounding previously, and mix the whole up with raw eggs. Or :—Beat the flesh and soft parts of a middling-sized lobster, half an anchovy, a large piece of boiled celery, the yolk of a hard ege, a little cayenne, mace, salt, and white pep- per, with 2 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, 1 ditto of oyster- liquor, 2 oz. of butter warmed, and 2 eggs long beaten: make into balls, and fry of a fine brown in butter. Or :—Take a few shrimps stripped of their shells, an anchovy, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, with bread-crumbs and seasoning as above, but adding some finely-minced sweet herbs, and omitting the oyster-liquor: make all this into a paste with a little butter and a raw egg, made up in balls and fried as before. Or :—Instead of making the balls of fish and frying them, it is a more simple way to make them merely of bread-crumbs, hard-boiled egg, and sweet herbs seasoned with raw egg: drop the balls, one by one, into the boiling soup a few minutes before serving. 2 eggs and ¢ lb. of bread should make 12 or 15 balls. Or :—Pound in a mortar, into a smooth substance, an anchovy, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, a head of boiled celery, and some sweet herbs, with 2 tablespoonfuls of bread- crumbs, seasoned with mace, a grating of nutmeg, cayenne, and salt; then add 2 oz. of butter melted, and work it into a paste with a little flour and the yolk of araw egg; make it into balls the size of marbles, and fry them quite brown. FORCEMEAT FOR TURTLE (as used at the Bush, Bristol). 456.—1 lb. of fine fresh suet, 1 Ib. of ready dressed veal or chicken chopped fine, crumbs of bread, a little shalot or onion, salt, white pepper, nutmeg, mace, pennyroyal, parsley, and lemon-thyme finely shred ; beat as many fresh eggs, yolks and whites separately, as will make the above ingredients into a Q 2 340 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XIX. moist paste ; roll into small balls, and boil them in fresh lard, putting them in just as it boils up. When of a light brown, take them out, and drain them before the fire. If the suet be moist or stale, a great many more eggs will be necessary. Balls made this way are remarkably light; but, being greasy, some people prefer them with less suet and eggs, They may therefore be made thus :—Chop up the materials with a little white pepper and salt, a sage-leaf or two scalded and finely chopped, and the yolk of an egg; make them into small cakes or fritters, and fry them. Eggs for Turtle-—Beat 3 hard yolks of eggs in a mortar, and make into a paste with the yolk of a raw one; roll it into smail balls, and throw them into boiling water for 2 minutes to harden. Though formerly much used, they have latterly gone out of fashion. PASSOVER BALLS FOR SOUP.—E.R. 457.—Chop an onion and 4 lb. of suet very finely; stew: them together until the suet is melted, then pour it hot upon: 8 spoonfuls of biscuit-flour; mix it well together; add a little salt, a little grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, and ginger, and 6 egys. Put the balls into the soup when it boils, and boil them for } ofan hour. The quantity of eggs and flour may appear disproportioned, but the flour employed is of a peculiar kind, used for the purpose in Jewish families. Nothing can exceed the excellence of the balls made after this receipt: they are applicable to any kind of soups. . SS O CHAPTER XX. CURING MEAT, POTTING, AND COLLARING: aD 9 een CURING. 458.—Iw salting meat care should be taken to remove the kernels, otherwise it will soon become tainted. It should be. sprinkled with a handful of common salt to fetch out the blood, the brine thrown away on the following day, and the meat wiped with a dry cloth ; it is then ready to be cured in Cuap, XX. 3 CURING MEAT. 341 any of the undermentioned ways. ‘Too much care cannot be taken in the first salting to rub between every muscle or under every flap of the meat, as for want of this care it may have an unpleasant taste, though sufficiently salted. ‘The brine will serve again, by being boiled and skimmed, which may be repeated as long as any scum will rise. Hams should be laid with the rind-side downwards; and it is a good plan to heat ¢ peck of common salt in a frying-pan and lay it at the bottom of the pan. \o0> PATTIES. 405 will be an improvement. Do not warm it till the patties are baked. Of Turkey.—Mince some of the white part; and with grated lemon, nutmeg, salt, a very little white pepper, cream, and a very little bit of butter warmed, fill the patties. A good Mince for Patties.—2 oz. of ham, 4 of chicken or veal, 1 egg boiled hard, 3 cloves, a blade of mace, pepper and salt, in fine powder. Just before you serve, warm the above with 4 spoonfuls of rich gravy, the same of cream, and 1 oz. of butter. Fill as usual. Of Oyster.—Take off the beards of the oysters, cut the other parts in small bits, put them in a small tosser with a grate of nutmeg, a little white pepper and salt, a morsel of lemon-peel cut very small, a little cream, and a small quantity of the oyster liquor. Simmer a few minutes before you fill. Or :—Beard and chop the oysters, boil a little cream, with an onion and a small quantity of mace; chop fine the crust of a French roll, mix it with the oysters, add the cream; let it boil. Season with nutmeg, cayenne, and salt. Of Lobster.—Mince the fish in the same manner, mingling with it a little of the coral, and make with the same seasoning, a little cream, and the smallest bit of butter. Of Shrimps.—Pick a quart of shrimps; if they are very salt, season them with only mace and a clove or two. Mince 2 or 8 anchovies; mix these with the spice, and then season the shrimps. Put a glass of sharp white wine. ‘They do not take long baking. VOL-AU-VENT.—E. R. 566.—Take puff paste, roll it about ¢ inch thick, cut it round or oval according to the shape of the dish; make the knife hot in water, so as not to drag the paste in cutting it; mark the cover an inch from the edge, brush it over with yolk of egg; bake it in a quick oven; when done take off the top, clean out the soft paste, return it to the oven for a few minutes to dry; dish it on a napkin. Care must be taken in taking out the soft part not to break the outside. It may be filled with ragofit of sweetbread, fricassée of chicken, quenelles, lobster, or oysters, but is never made of a large size. » 406 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXII, Of Croquettes——Make croquettes of the size of a pigeon’s egg, of veal and ham and of calves’ brains, an equal quantity of each, fry them of the palest gold colour, make a rich white- sauce, and put into it the very smallest mushrooms or minced truffles: give it an acid flavour with lemon or lemon-pickle, and put it into the vol-au-vent when it is to be sent to table. Of Veal.—Cut veal into thin pieces the size of half-a-crown, beat them, and fry them a pale brown; make some forcemeat and egg balls, fry the former, put-the whole into a rich brown eravy, fill the vol-au-vent, and serve it up hot. Of Pigeons and Sweetbreads.—Cut off the pinions, legs, and backs of 3.or 4 pigeons, and bone the breast, making it as large as possible: cut 3 or 4 pieces of blanched sweetbread the same size, put them together, securing ‘them with tape, and put them into a stewpan with a piece.of butter, the trim- mings, an onion, a bunch of sweet herbs,:aslice of fat;bacon, and a small teacupful of water. Let them stew ‘till quite tender; remove the tape, strain and thicken the gravy, and put them into the paste when it comes from ‘the oven. — (> eee FIBA Pies CODFISH PIE. 567.—Take dressed codfish and cold oyster-sauce: put a little of the sauce at the bottom of a pie-dish, then a layer of flakes of codfish, with a little of the liver cut in small pieces, 4 season with black pepper and salt, and a very little nutmeg ; repeat the layers until the dish 1s full, cover it with bread- crumbs and bits of fresh ‘butter; bake for 2 of an hour, and let the top be quite brown. A couple of sounds well soaked, boiled tender, and cut in small pieces, are a great improvement. Or :—Take a piece of the middle of a small codfish, and salt it well one night; next day wash it, cut it in slices, season with pepper, salt, and a very little nutmeg, mixed; place it in a dish, and put some butter on it, with a little good broth of any kind. Cover it with a crust; and when done, raise it, add a dozen of oysters, + pint of cream, a little flour and butter, a grate of lemon and nutmeg, and give it 1 boil. Bake it a full hour. _ Cuap. XXII. FISH PIES. AQT AN INCOMPARABLE LING PIE. 568.—Wash and soak the salt out of a piece of the thin part; boil iteslowly ; remove the skin, and put layers of the fish and hard ege sliced; add chopped parsley, with 2 oz. of butter in bits among it, till the dish is nearly full. Put ina seasoning made of a large teacupful of gravy, with pounded mace and white pepper. Lay over it a good puff-paste; and when’ that is sufficiently baked, put in a of hot cream. EEL PIE. 569.—Cut the eels in lengths of 2 or 3 inches, after skinning them ; season with pepper and salt, and place in the dish, with some bits of butter and.a little water ; and cover it with paste. Middle-sized eels do best. ‘They should be slightly seasoned. For a variety, the bottom of the pie-dish may be covered with a rump-steak, divided into small pieces, but not put in layers along with the fish, as many persons prefer eating the eels alone. ‘The steak will produce abundance of gravy, to which only a little soy or ketchup should be added. A remarkably fine Fish Pie.—Boil 2 lbs. of small eels; having cut the fins quite close, pick the flesh off, and throw the bones into the liquor with a little mace, pepper, salt, and slice of onion; boil till quite rich, and strain it. Make force- meat of the flesh, an anchovy, parsley, lemon-peel, salt, pepper, and crumbs, and 4 oz. of butter warmed, and lay it at the bottom of the dish. ‘Take the flesh of soles, small cod, or dressed turbot, and lay them on the forcemeat, having rubbed it with salt and pepper; pour the gravy over, and bake. SOLE PIE. 570.—Split some soles from the bone, and cut the fins close ; season with a mixture of salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, and pounded mace, and put them in layers with oysters; they eat excellently. A pair of middling-sized ones will do, and 2 to 3 dozen of oysters. Putin the dish the oyster-liquor, 2 or 3 spoonfuls of broth, and some butter. Pike, perch, and carp may be each made into savoury pies, if cut into fillets, seasoned, and baked in puff-paste; but will be much improved by the addition of an eel to increase the richness of the dish, and even by a few gudgeons, mingled with the fillets. Sauce may be made of the bones, if meat be ay . 408 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuapr. XXII, not allowed; but if veal broth be used, then cream should he added. PILCHARD AND LEEK PIE. «» 571.—Clean and skin the white part of some large leeks ; scald in milk and water, and put them in layers into a dish, - and between the layers 2 or 3 salted pilchards which have been soaked for some hours the day before; cover the whole with a good plain crust. When the pie is taken out of the oven, lift up the side-crust with a knife, and empty out all the liquor; then pour in $ pint of scalded cream. This is a Devonshire dish; and may be made, in the same way, of herrings, or any sort of fish, with or without cream. LOBSTER PIE. 572.—Boil 2 lobsters, or 3 if small; take out the tails, cut them in 2, take out the gut, cut each in 4 pieces, and lay ina small dish; then put in the meat of the claws, and that you have picked out of the body; pick out the furry parts from the latter, and take out the lady; beat the spawn in a mortar, set the shells on to stew with some water, 2 or 3 spoonfuls of vinegar, pepper, salt, and some pounded mace; a large piece of butter, rolled in flour, must be added, when the goodness of the shells is obtained; give a boil or two, and pour into the dish strained ; strew some crumbs, and put a paste over all; bake slowly, but only till the paste be done. OYSTER PIE. 573.—As you open the oysters separate them from the liquor, which strain; parboil them after taking off the beards. Par- boil sweetbreads, and, cutting them in slices, lay them and the oysters in layers; season very lightly with salt, pepper, and mace; then put 3 a teacupful of liquor, and the same of veal gravy. Bake in a slow oven; and before you serve, put a tea- cupful of cream, a little more oyster-liquor, and a cup of white gravy, all warmed, but not boiled. Cm XkL | FRUIT PIES. 409 CHAPTER XXIII. FRUIT PIES, PUFFS, PUDDINGS, &c. 574.—ALu pies made either with summer fruit or with winter preserves will be improved by a mixture of apples, pared and sliced. Apples will this way eke out the remains of a pot of jam with advantage. ‘They are especially good with fresh cherries, currants, &e., and will be found an agreeable addi- tion to eranberries. Equal portions also of cranberries and any very sweet jam will improve both. When apples are mixed with jam, they should be sliced thin; and if syrup be wanted, a few slices boiled with a little of the jam in sugar and water. In making pies of green gooseberries, apples, or rhubarb, the sugar should be clarified—that is, boiled in a little water, but no water poured into the pie, as it destroys the flavour of the fruit. For fresh fruits short crust is very suitable. Fresh Fruit Pies, of all descriptions, whether cherry, green gooseberry, damson, currant, or raspberry, may be all made in nearly the same manner, taking care that the fruit be fresh- _ gathered and cleanly picked ; also observing that, if the goose- berries be very sour, they should be put for } of an hour in boiling water. ¢ lb. of sugar is usually allowed to every lb. of fruit. When pies have been kept until cold the crust becomes heavy and indigestible; when next used they should there- fore be put before the fire to warm the crust and lighten it. Strew pounded loaf-sugar over the crust, or ice it with the white of an egg whipped up to a froth and laid over it. * In making pies of a very juicy fruit, it is a common practice to puta teacup into the dish to collect the liquor, and thus prevent it from oyver~ flowing the edges. This not only has a vulgar appearance, but is actuated by a false principle, as when the cup is first put into the dish it is full of cold air, and when the pie is placed in the oven the heat will cause the air to expand and fill the cup, and will drive out all the juice and a portion of the present air it contains, in which state it will remain till removed from the oven, when the air in the cup will condense and occupy a very small space. leaving the remainder to be filled with juice, but this does not take place till the dang er of the juice boiling over is past. wT 410 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap, XXIII. APPLE PIE. 575.—Pare, core, and quarter the apples; boil the cores and parings in sugar and water; strain off the liquor, adding more sugar; grate the rind of a lemon over the apples, and squeeze the juice into the syrup; mix half a dozen cloves with the fruit, put in a piece of butter the size of a walnut; cover with puff-paste. Codling Tart.—Scald the fruit; when ready, take off the thin skin, and lay them whole in a dish; put a Uittle of the water that the apples were boiled in at bottom, strew them over with powdered lump sugar; when cold, put a paste round the edges and over. When the tart is baked, smear the crust with white of egg, and sift over it some powdered sugar. erve with custard. Or :—Line the bottom of a shallow dish with paste; lay the apples in it, sweeten, and lay little twists of paste over in bars. ' Pippin Tarts.—Pare thin 2 Seville or China oranges, boil the peel tender, and shred it fine; pare and core a dozen of good-sized apples, and put them in a stewpan, with as little water as possible; when half done, add 4 lb. of sugar, the orange-peel, and juice; boil till pretty thick. When cold, put it into a shallow dish, or pattypans lined with paste, to turn out, and be eaten cold. New-fashioned Apple-pie-—Pare and quarter the apples, scald them, beat them with a spoon with some of. the liquor, add grated lemon-peel, the juice of a lemon or Seville orange, or a part of a quince, when they are to be got, cloves, white sugar finely pounded, and a piece of butter; put a paste round the dish, and cover it with bars or flowers of paste— the excellence of the pie consisting of the sort of apple and the goodness of the paste; the fruit should be raised in the middle, as it shrinks in the baking. Stewed Apples.—Peel and slice 2 or 3 good-sized apples into a small stewpan, with a few cloves and some lemon or orange peel, and let it stew for about ¢ of an hour in 2 glasses of white wine. It may be done while the family are at dinner, and the apples eat better than in a pie. ‘They should be thrown into cold water when sliced, to prevent their becoming dry and discoloured. The apples may be also mixed with pears or plums, and will be found excellent. Cuap, XXIII. TARTLETS. 41} RHUBARB PIE OR TART. 576.—Take the stalks from the leaves, and peel off the thin skin; cut them into pieces about an inch long, and as you do so sprinkle a little fine sugar into the basin. For a quart basin, heaped, take 1 lb. of common lump-sugar; put the rhubarb into it, with a tablespoonful of water, and as it simmers shake the pan often over the fire. It will turn yellow at first, but keep it very gently doing until it greens, and then take it off. When cold lay it in the tart-dish, with only as much syrup as will make it very moist. Put a light crust over it, and when that is baked the tart will be done enough; quarter the crust, and fill the dish with custard or cream. Many persons think the flavour of the rhubarb injured by taking off the peel. TARTLETS 577.—Are always so called when made of a small size and uncovered with a crust ; nor should preserved fruit of any kind be put under crust. The paste is made stiff enough to support the contents, being cut thin, put into pattypans, and crimped at the edges. ‘The fruit is then frequently ornamented with small strips of paste laid over it crosswise, which are made thus :—Mix + lb. of flour, 1 oz. of fresh butter, and a little cold water ; rub it well between the board and your hand till it begins to string; cut it into small pieces, roll it out, and draw it into fine strings; then lay them in any way you please across your tartlets, and bake immediately. The jam of raspberries, currants, or any other fruits, as well as the marmalade of apricot, quince, and apple, may be made into tartlets; and when baked in a quick oven may be filled up with raw custard or whipped cream. Orange Tartlets.—Squeeze, pulp, and boil tender 2 Seville oranges; weigh twice their weight of sugar ; beat both together to a paste; then add the juice and pulp of the fruit, and the size of a walnut of fresh butter, and beat all together. Choose a very shallow dish or small pattypans, line it with a light puff crust, and lay the paste of orange in it. You may ice it. Lemon Tartlets—Pare, rather thick, the rinds of 4 lemons, which boil tender in 2 waters, and beat fine; add to it 4 oz. of blanched almonds cut thin, 4 oz. of lump-sugar, the juice of the lemons, and a little grated peel ; simmer to a syrup; when cold, turn it into a shallow tin tart-dish lined with a rich thin T2 412 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. CHap. XXIII, puff-paste, and lay bars of paste over; as soon as the paste is baked, take it out. Or :—Take the juice of 2 lemons and the rinds grated ; clean. the grater with bread, only using sufficient crumbs: to take oif all the lemon-peel ; beat all together with 2 eggs, 4 lb. of loaf-sugar, and ¢ lb. of butter. This is sufficient to make 12 tartlets, and will be found very excellent. Green Apricot Tartlets—When the wall-fruit trees are thinned, take the thinnings before the stone is formed ; stew * them gently i in sugar and water. When tender, reduce and thicken the syrup, vand put it with the fruit into pattypans; — or, if covered with a paste, it is then called a pie. This also applies to grapes. Prune Tart.—Give prunes a scald, take out the stones and break them ; put the kernels into a little cranberry-juice, with the prunes and sugar: simmer, and when cold make a tart of the sweetmeat. It must be almost needless to say that tartlets of damsons, plums, and most sorts of stone-fruit, may be made in the same manner. Tartlets a la Paganini.—Beat up the whites of 3 eggs to a froth, and then add 5 oz. of pounded sugar; beat it well up, and have your pattypans ready covered with paste, upon which put any quantity you please of jam or marmalade ; bake them for about 4.an hour, and when done fill them with the whip. This quantity will fill 16 pattypans of a small size. TO PREPARE CRANBERRIES FOR TARTS. 578.—Simmer them in moist sugar, without breaking, 20 minutes ; and let them become cold before being used. A pint will require nearly 3 oz. of sugar. The Russian and American sorts are larger and better flavoured than those of this country. Stewed with sugar, they eat excellently with bread. PUFFS. 579.—Regent’s Pastry.—Take 3 lb. of almonds ground into flour, a little powdered sugar, and a few drops of some con- crete essence ;, make it into a paste with the white of an egg; then make another paste with sugar, flour, and butter, worked up with the whites of eggs; roll it out; then lay it upon the Cuap. XXIII. PUFEFS. 413 almond-paste, and cut both together into shapes, brush them over with egg, then sprinkle chopped almonds over them, and bake upon buttered paper in a tart-pan; ornament the pastry with jam when it comes from the oven. Apple Puffs.—Pare and core the fruit, and either stew them in a stone jar on a hot hearth, or bake them. When cold, mix the pulp of the apple with sugar and grated lemon- peel, taking as little of the apple-juice as you can. Bake them in thin paste, in a quick oven: ¢ of an hour will do . them if small. Orange or quince marmalade is a great im- provement. Cinnamon pounded or orange-flower water may be used as a variety. Lemon Puffs—Pound and sift 4 lb. of loaf-sugar, grate the rind of | large lemon or 2 small ones; then whip up the white of an egg to a froth, and mix all together to the consistency of good paste; cut it into shapes, and bake upon writing-paper, being careful not to handle the paste: the oven.must be very slow for this purpose. Cheese Puffs——Strain cheese-curd from the whey, and beat % pint of it fine in a mortar, with 14 spoonful of flour, 3 eggs, but only 1 white, a spoonful of orange-flower water, ¢ of a nutmeg, and sugar to make it pretty sweet; lay a little of this paste, in very small round cakes, on a tin plate. If the oven is hot, ¢ of an hour will bake them. Serve with pudding-sauce. To those who make cheese, these puffs are not bad; but they are hardly worth the trouble of preparing the curd. Parmesan Puffs.—Take + lb. of cheese, the same quantity of bread-crumbs, and 2 oz. of butter; pound these well in a mortar, beat up an egg, and mix it up into the paste, making the whole xp into balls about the size of a golden pippin; make a thin batter with flour, milk, and 1 egg; dip the balls into this, and fry them a light brown. Excellent Light Puffs.—Mix 2 spoonfuls of flour, a little grated lemon-peel, some nutmeg, + spoonful of brandy, a little loaf-sugar, and 1 egg; then fry it, but not brown; beat it in a mortar with 5 eggs, whites and yolks; put a quantity of lard in a fryingpan, and when quite hot drop a dessertspoonful of batter at a time; turn as they brown. Serve them imme- diately with sweet sauce. Spanish Puffs.—Put 1 oz. of fresh butter into a quart stew- 4 414 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXII. pan; when hot, put in 4 spoonfuls of flour; stir it over the fire for 5 minutes; have ready boiling a gill of milk, which stir in by degrees so as to avoid making it lumpy ; when it is thoroughly boiled, take it off the fire, stir in 6 eggs, a pinch of salt, a little nutmeg, chopped lemon-peel, and a handful of currants, with sugar, and sufficient orange-flower water to flavour it; let it get cold; when wanted for use have some lard boiling, make the batter into balls the size of a small walnut, fry them until they burst ; drain; dust them over with powdered sugar; serve with wine-sauce. German Puffs.—Put 4 lb. of butter into 4 pint of milk, place the pan upon the fire, and when it boils add a cupful of flour; beat all well together, and, when cold, mix in 6 eggs, leaving out 2 of the whites; beat up some sugar and grated lemon-peel with the eggs, and bake the puffs in a moderately- heated oven. Austrian Puffs.—2 oz. of pounded almonds, the same of clarified butter and sifted sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 4 pint of cream, and a little orange-flower water; beat all together, butter the pans, fill them only half full, and bake for 4 an hour in a slow oven. French Puffs.—Take a pint of new milk, boil half, and mix the other half very smoothly with 4 heaped spoonfuls of fine flour; then add it to the boiling milk, and boil it until it isa stiff paste. When cold, take the yolks of 5 eggs, the whites of 2, a tablespoonful of sifted sugar, and beat the whole into a light batter in a marble mortar; then drop it from a spoon into boiling lard, fry of a light brown, and serve it up with sifted — sugar over each. A small piece of any candied fruit may be dropped into each spoonful of batter. Irish Puffs—Pound } lb. of sweet and 1 oz. of bitter almonds, but not too finely ; take } lb. of loaf-sugar pounded and sifted, the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a thick froth; mix all together, and put the puffs into pattypans covered with paste; then sift powdered sugar over them thickly, and bake them a light brown. ‘The flavour may be improved by pound- ing the almonds with orange-flower water or a little essence of lemon. Lady Abbess’s Puffs.—Take 3 oz. of Jordan almonds and z oz. of butter, with 2 0z. of loaf-sugar; pound them witha Cap. XXIII. GAUFFRES. 415 little rose-water till they become a thick paste; spread the paste on buttered tins, and bake them in a slow oven. When cold, put a spoonful of jam in each, and cover it with whipped cream. _ GAUFFRES. 580.—Take 4 or 5 oz. of flour, 3 oz. of pounded sugar, 3 pint of whipped cream, 4 or 5 eggs, a small stick of pounded vanilla, a grating of nutmeg, and a little salt, with a glass of curacoa or ratafia. Place the flour, sugar, and salt in a basin, then add the ‘yolk of eggs, the vanilla, and the spirit, mixing them well together, and gradually adding the whipped cream. Just before using the batter, add the whites of eggs, whipped to a froth, and mix them in lightly, so as to thoroughly incorporate them with it. Bake these gauffres in tongs made for the purpose, observing, however, that the iron be very carefully heated, and the super- fluous heat allowed to go off previously to filling them with batter; rub the tongs with fresh butter; fill the bottom part with batter, and fasten on the top, then turn it, and, whena fine brown on both sides, shake some pounded spice and sugar over them, and send them to table. They may be spread with any kind of preserve or jelly. Gauffres a la Flamande.—Take 6 eggs well beaten, mix into them 4 lb. of flour to a smooth paste; dissolve a piece of German yeast, about the size of a nutmeg, in a wineglassful of warm water, with a gill of warm milk, a little salt, 2 table- spoonfuls of orange-flower water, and 6 oz. of butter; mix . them with the flour till all is well worked, using a wooden spoon; set it in a warm place for nearly 2 hours, when it will have risen 2 or 3 inches; work it round a little to subdue the ' fermentation; let it stand $an hour, and it will be fit for use. ' Put the gauffre-irons upon a slow fire, letting both sides be hot; wipe them, and rub the inside slightly with a bit of fat bacon; put in 2 spoonfuls of tlie paste, close the irons, and bake them for a few minutes. The colour should be a light gold colour, and very crisp. The irons can be half-opened to see if it is done. When of the proper colour, turn it out, and proceed with the remainder in the same way. ‘Take 1 lb. of loaf-sugar, and + oz. of cinnamon, pounded and passed through a sieve; dip the gauffres into it on both sides, and serve hot upon a napkin. Place them in the form of a pyramid. 416 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXIII, ) MINCE-PIES. 581.—In making these, the first thing to be done is to pre- pare the mince-meat. The following are selected from a variety of receipts, all excellent :— Take 2 lbs. of raisins stoned, 2 lbs. of currants, 1 Ib. of sultana raisins, 2 lbs. of apples, ? lb. of sugar, 2 lbs. of suet, the juice of 2 lemons, and the rind of 1 chopped very fine; t lb. of mixed spice,* 2 glasses of brandy, 2 oz. of citron, and 2 of candied lemon-peel. Or :—2 Ibs. of the inside of a sirloin of beef, boiled, and picked from skin, and 43 lbs. of suet, all chopped very fine. Take 8. large apples chopped, 6 lbs. of currants clean washed and dried, a twopenny loaf grated, 1 oz. of nutmegs, 3 0z. of cloves, a little pepper*and salt, 14 Ib. of sugar ; grate the peel of an orange and a lemon, add the juice of 6 oranges and 2 lemons: mix all these ingredients well together, pour over the’ whole a pint of port wine and 1 of brandy. Add sweetmeats in making the pies. Or :—Take ¢ lb. of lean beef, boiled well and chopped fine, 2 lbs. of suet also chopped fine, 1 Ib. of moist sugar, 1 lb. of carefully washed and picked currants, 1 lb. of raisins (when stoned, to be chopped), 9 good sound winter apples, peeled, cored, and chopped, and the grated rind of a lemon; season with mixed spice and a teaspoonful of salt; thoroughly mix. the whole; add a wineglassful of port wine and 2 of brandy ; press it down into a@®stone jar, and keep it well covered; when the pies are filled, Jay sliced candied peel on the top of the meat. The following we particularly recommend for its being com- municated by a celebrated tavern-keeper, from whom we have received much valuable information :—1] lb. each of currants, Valencia raisins, Ripston pippins, calf’s-foot, and pickled ox- tongue boiled and chopped ; 4 Ib. of suet, + Ib. of sugar, 4 Ib. of candied peel, 13 pint of wine and brandy, the juice of 2 lemons, with a small teaspoonful of mixed spice. Any of these receipts being now prepared, mix the ingre- dients well together with the hands, and put it into a jar or jars for use. ‘The flavour of the mince-meat will be much “ 2 oz. cinnamon, 2 oz. allspice, 2 oz. cloves, 4 oz. nutmeg, 4 oz. ginger, 2 oz. coriander, all finely powdered and mixed, aulie avery good mixed spice, and should be bottled and kept well corked, Cuarp. XXIII. PIES, PATTIES. 417 improved by lying together a few days before it is used. It will keep good for many weeks, or even months. To make the pies, have some pans of any required size, or a small dish or plate. Cover them first with a sheet of short paste, made with 3 lb. of butter rubbed in with 1 lb. of flour, and made into rather a stiff paste with water; then fill them well with the mince-meat, making it high in the centre, leaving a little space from the edge; sprinkle or moisten these edges with water, and put on a moderately thick covering of very light puff-paste ; trim the paste off to the edge of the pan, and bake in a moderately-heated oven. When the crust is done, so are the pies. LENT PIES. 582.—Boil a dozen eggs quite hard, and chop the yolks very fine; chop also a dozen of moderate-sized juicy apples, peeled and cored, together with 2 lbs. of stoned raisins; add 2 lbs. of currants, 1 lb. of sugar, and a tablespoonful each of powdered. cinnamon, nutmeg, and beaten mace; take also the juice and grated peel of 3 ripe: lemons, with + lb. of citron cut into slips ; mix all these thoroughly, and moisten the whole with a pint each of white wine and brandy. A little rose-water may be added, and ratafia may be used instead of brandy. SWEET PATTIES. “ 583.—Chop the meat of a boiled calf’s-foot, of which you use the liquor for jelly, with 2 apples, 1 oz. of orange and lemon peel candied, and some fresh peel’and juice; mix with them % a nutmeg grated, the yolk of an egg, a spoonful of brandy, and 4 oz. of currants, washed and dried; bake in small pattypans. Croustade or Dresden Patties.—Slice some stale bread about 4 inch thick; cut from it, with a round paste-cutter, as many croustades as will be required: mark the centres with a smaller cutter, seoop out the insides as in paste patties, then fry them a light brown, drain them well, and fill them with any hot compote of fruit or hot preserve. ‘The croustade may be filled with any sort of minced meat or fowl, and served as an entrée in the first course. They are very nice made with the rounds of a French roll; it should be pared very thin, then cut in rounds of such thickness as to allow the centres to be taken out; dip them in milk, and let them drain; do not let them break; brush them with egg, and sift the rasping of the roll T 3 418 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXII. over them’; fry them a pale brown, and fill with oysters, stewed — mushrooms, &c., or, as above, with fruit or preserve. Patties resembling Mince Pies.—Chop the kidney and fat of cold veal, apple, orange, and lemon-peel candied, fresh currants, a little wine, 2 or 3 cloves, a little brandy, and a bit of sugar. Bake as before. Patties with Curds.—Take some very rich milk, put into it some lemon-juice or vinegar, place it on the fire that it may curdle, drain off the whey through a sieve; add to the curds the yolk of an egg beaten up in 2 spoonfuls of milk, a few currants, and a little pounded cinnamon. Make the paste and prepare the patties in the same way as in the preceding receipt. CHEESECAKES. 584.—Strain the whey from the curd of 2 quarts of milk; when rather dry crumble it through a coarse sieve, and mix with 6 oz. of fresh butter, 1 oz. of pounded blanched almonds, a little orange-flower water, 4 a glass of raisin wine, a grated biscuit, 4 oz. of currants, some nutmeg and cinnamon in fine powder, and beat all the above with 3 eggs and 3 pint of cream till quite light: then line the pattypans with a thin puff paste, and fill them three parts full. A plainer sort.—Turn 38 quarts of milk to curd, break it, and drain the whey: when dry, break it in a pan, with 2 oz. of butter, till perfectly smooth; put to it 14 pint of thin cream or good milk, and add sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and 3 oz. of currants. Another way.—Mix the curd of 3 quarts of milk, 1 Ib. of currants, 12 oz. of Lisbon sugar, + oz. of cinnamon and nut- meg, the peel of 1 lemon beaten in a mortar, the yolks of 8 and whites of 6 eggs, a pint of scalded cream, and a glass of brandy. Put a light thin puff-paste in the pattypans, and three parts fill them. Miss Bratty’s Cheesecakes.—The yolks of 8 eggs, 8 oz. of sugar finely-powdered and sifted, 8 oz. of sweet almonds powdered, beat all together till very white. Line the pans with a thin paste; immediately before you put them into the oven, mix the size of a walnut of butter melted into them over a fire. If the oven be too hot they will fall when taken out. Or :—10 eggs, leave out half the whites, 1 lb. of sugar 4 CuHap. XXIII. CHEESECAKES. 419 finely powdered and sifted, 4 lb. of flour, 3 oz. of butter, 8 oz. of sweet almonds, with a glass of brandy put into them while they are pounding. Beat them all together, and butter the pans very well. Without Butter —Beat the yolks of 10 eggs and the whites of 5 separately, beat them extremely well, 1 lb. of sugar powdered and sifted, put to the eggs by spoonfuls; beat both till very white; add 14 oz. of flour, 2 or 3 spoonfuls of brandy, and some carraway seeds. Lemon Cheesecakes.—Mix 4 oz. of sifted lump sugar and 4 oz. of butter, and gently melt it; then add the yolks of 2 and the white of 1 egg, the rind of 3 lemons chopped fine, and the juice of 14, 1 Savoy biscuit, some blanched almonds pounded, 3 spoonfuls of brandy. Or :—Boil 2 large lemons, or 3 small ones, and after squeezing pound them well together in a mortar, taking out the inner skin; add 4 oz. of loaf sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, and 8 oz. of fresh butter. Fill the pattypans half full. Orange Cheesecakes——When you have blanched 4 Ib. of almonds, beat them very fine, with orange-flower water, + lb. of fine sugar beaten and sifted, and 1 lb. of butter that has been melted carefully without oiling, and which must be nearly cold before you use it; then beat the yolks of 10 and whites of 4 eggs; pound 2 candied oranges, and afresh one with the bitterness boiled out, till as tender as marmalade, without any lumps; beat the whole together, and put into pattypans. Almond Cheesecakes.—Blanch and pound 4 oz. of almonds, and a few bitter, with a spoonful of water; then add 4 oz. of sugar pounded, a spoonful of cream, and the whites of 2 eggs well beaten; mix all as quick as possible; put into very small pattypans, and bake in a rather warm oven under 20 minutes. Another.—Press the whey from as much curd as will fill 2 dozen small pattypans; then put it on the back of a sieve, and with % oz. of butter rub it through with the back of a spoon ; put to it 6 yolks and 3 whites of eggs, and a few almonds of both sorts pounded, with as much sugar as will make the curd properly sweet; mix with these a wineglassful of sherry or Madeira, in which boil the rind of a Seville orange, if you 420 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXIII. can get one, or, if not, a large ripe one of the common kind, with all its juice. Beat all gradually together, and when thoroughly blended fill the pattypans; the baking will take from + of an hour to 20 minutes. Potato Cheesecakes.—A4 oz. of butter, the same of pounded sugar, 6 oz. of potatoes boiled and floured through a sieve, the rind of 1 lemon, and half the juice, unless acid is desirable ; mix these ingredients well together, with 2 eggs, and fill the tart-pan and bake it. CHEESECAKE-STOCK, that will keep for several years.—E. R. 585.—To + lb. of butter put 1 lb. of loaf-sugar broken into small pieces, 6 eggs, leaving out 2 whites, the rind of 3 lemons grated, and the juice of 3; put them all into a pan, and let them simmer over the fire until the sugar is dissolved, and it begins to thicken like honey. When cold put it into sweet- meat-pots for use. When made into cheesecakes, add grated sweet biscuits. Line the small tartlet-pans used for these small cakes with good, but not too light, puff-paste: make them of a deep yellow colour, and put on each a strip of candied citron. ICING FOR FRUIT PIES AND TARTS. 586.—The common mode is to take the white of an ege, whisked to a froth, mixed thickly with pounded sugar, and laid on with a quill feather. For larger tarts it should, how- ever, be Jaid on more thickly, and comfits or lemon-peel may be stuck into it. ; eee) PUDDINGS. 587.—There are two different sorts of paste for puddings, one for meat and the other for fruit. For Meat Pudding.—To 1 lb. of flour add 8 oz. of finely chopped beef-suet cut from the kidney. Mix it with water, but do not wet it too much: after mixing it well together with a wooden spoon, roll out the paste and put in the meat; then close it; boil it in a cloth which has been floured, tie it up, but leave sufficient room to permit the swelling of the paste. Veal-suet may also be used, but that of beef is better; ora CHapP. XXUI. PUDDINGS, 42r". mixture of both is not bad. If puddings be boiled in shapes the crust is not near so light. For Fruit Puddings the paste should be made as for a pie —using better instead of swet; but, unless for the sake of appearance, they should never be boiled in shapes. A very. little salt added to all paste much improves it. | Sweet Pudding.—Very good puddings may be made with- out eggs ; but they should have very little liquid added to them, and must boil longer than puddings with eggs. A spoonful of yeast will serve instead of 2 eggs, and a pinch of soda will make it still lighter. 2 large spoonfuls of snow will supply the place of 1 egg, and make a pudding equally good. This is a useful piece of information, as snow generally falls in the season when eggs are dear. The sooner it is used after it falls the better; but it may be taken up from a clean spot, and kept in a cool place some hours, without losing its good qualities. Bottled malt-liqguors are also a good substitute for eggs; the sooner used after the cork is drawn the better. Eggs should always be broken separately into a cup before they are thrown together, as, without this precaution, a single bad one might occasion the loss of a great many: the yolks and whites, beaten long and separately, ‘make the’ article they are put into much lighter. They must always be strained after beating. To avoid repetition, let it be observed that, when pudding- sauce is ordered, wine, sugar, and very thick melted butter, boiled up together, is the sauce intended. If the pudding be partly of bread, the cloth should he tied so as to allow for swelling; if of flour, rather more tight: Basins or forms are much better in appearance than cloths for boiling puddings, but it makes them far less light. The water should boil quickly when the pudding is put in, and care taken that it continues to do so, or the pudding will be heavy; and it should be moved about for a minute or two, that the ingredients may not separate. All dishes in which puddings are baked should be lined with paste an inch or two below the edge, as well as on it; the dish must be first rubbed with butter. Ifa pudding is to be turned out from a mould, it must be entirely lined with paste. The ingredients of puddings should not be put into the basin or dish till the minute they go into the water or oven. Sago, and all sorts of seeds, should lie in water an hour 422 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Onar. XXIII. before they are made into puddings, and be well washed; the want of this caution causes an earthy taste. If the butter be strong that is used in puddings, they will not taste well, whatever good things are added. A small pinch of salt improves the flavour of all mixtures, even when the other ingredients are sweet. | Well-made raisin or Cape wine will serve, in most cases, when wine is ordered for puddings. As the goodness of boiled puddings greatly depends upon keeping the ingredients closely but not too compactly together, the cook should take care to have moulds and basins in readi- ness that will exactly hold the quantity directed. * Puddings of bread or flour are much better if all the ingre- dients be mixed (except the eggs) 8 hours before boiling or baking; and they should be well stirred just before they are put into the oven or saucepan. Plum-puddings are best boiled in a stout cloth well floured ; care should be taken that it does not burn to the bottom of the kettle; to prevent this put a plate at the bottom. When the pudding is of a large size it is best to mix all but the liquid ingredients the day before it is boiled. When butter is ordered to be put warm into puddings, the addition of a little milk or wine will prevent its oiling. Custard Puddings to look well should simmer only, but without stopping. If boiled in a quick or careless manner the surface will not be smooth, but have little holes like honey- comb all over it. A sheet of writing-paper, thickly buttered, should be put on the top of the mould before the lid or cloth is put on, and the pudding should stand in the mould 5 minutes after being lifted from the water. Many persons prefer their puddings steamed, but when this is not done they should be put into plenty of boiling water, and kept well covered. Half an hour should be allowed for boiling a bread-pudding in a half-pint basi sin, and so on in proportion; but puddings made up with 4 lb. of suet, and any other ingredients, will require 2. hours. SUET PUDDINGS. 588.—Finely chop 1 lb. of beef-suet; mix with it 1} Ib. of flour, 2 eggs well beaten, a little salt, and as little milk as will mix it. Boil 4 hours. It eats well next day cut in slices and fried, and may be eaten either with salt or sugar. > + Cuap. XXIII. MEAT PUDDINGS. 423 Or :—Take 8 oz. of grated bread, 3 oz. of finely chopped suet, and 4 oz. of pounded loaf-sugar, the juice and grated peel of 2 lemons, and 1 egg well beaten; mix all together ; put it into a buttered basin and boil 1 hour; or make it into dumplings, and boil 20 minutes. Serve with wine sauce. Of veal-suet, cut the-crumb of a threepenny loaf into slices ; boil and sweeten 2 quarts of new milk, and pour over it. When soaked, pour out a little of the milk, and mix with 6 eggs well beaten and half a nutmeg. Lay the slices of bread into a dish, with layers of currants and finely-chopped veal-suet, 1 lb. of each. Butter the dish well, and bake; or you may boil it in a basin if you prefer it. Balls of suet pudding, not larger than the size of an egg, are put into gravy soup. ‘They will take from 20 minutes. to 3 an hour boiling; in that time they will be done through, and so light as to swim to the top. They may be also served. separately, and are an excellent accompaniment to corned. beef. BEEF-STEAK PUDDING. 589.—Of all savoury puddings perhaps those made with beef are the best. ‘The following is the mode of making them in all the clubs :— ' Take from 1 |b. to 14 Ib. of the inside of a sirloin of beef, _ or the same quantity of rump-steak, cutting off part of the fat: beat it until tender, cut it thin and divide into small slices along with 2 mutton kidneys or 1 veal kidney; to these add a dozen of native oysters, bearded. The whole is then seasoned with pepper and salt, a minced shalot, and chopped parsley. Boil it from 24 to 3 hours. When done, have ready some strong beef-gravy, made savoury with a little mushroom ketchup; make a hole in the paste and pour it into the pudding. If for a family pudding the oysters and the kidneys may be omitted: let the steak be prepared as above, adding, if you choose, some layers of sliced onions. MUTTON AND KIDNEY PUDDING. 590.—Cut slices from an underdone leg of mutton, with kidneys, sufficient to form alternate layers, mixed with some minced onions. It may be made either in a shape or solely in paste, but in either case it should not be very highly seasoned : it should, however, have some good gravy, to be poured into it when boiled, for which walnut-ketchup will be found more appropriate than mushroom. “AD4 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXIII. RABBIT PUDDING. 591.—Clean the rabbit well, take off the head, and cut the carcase into pieces, as for a fricassee, leaving out the rib-bones ; - then parboil the liver, mince it and mix it with the brains: that done, season the fricassee with pepper and salt, a little mushroom powder, and a clove of powdered mace; lay the fricassee in the paste, mingling with it the mince, and inter- laying it with a few thin slices of pickled pork: it will take nearly 2 hours boiling. The gravy may be made of the head, lights, and bones, with a bit of ham or bacon. CHICKEN PUDDING. . 592.—Fricassee 2 young chickens, season them slightly edith a little mushroom powder, mace, nutmeg, and salt, but no as pepper. Previously take the giblets and stew them down with — a bit of meat to make gravy; put 2 tablespoonfuls into the paste, and keep the rest to fill up or put under the pudding. — 2 hours will boil it. GAME PUDDINGS. 593.—Game of any description may be made into puddings, and when partly boned, well spiced, with minced truffle mushroom, mace, and a clove of garlic, and boiled within a light paste, they are very rich, and the paste particularly fine, as it absorbs so much of the gravy; but the boiling deprives - the game of much of its high flavour, and a woodcock or a snipe should never be so dressed, as they lose all the savour of the trail. Or :—-Make a batter with flour, milk, eggs, pepper, and salt; pour a little into the bottom of a pudding-dish; then put seasoned poultry or game of any kind into it, and a little shred onion ; pour the remainder of the batter over, and bake in a slow oven. A single chicken, partridge, or pigeon may be thus made into a dumpling :—Stuff it with chopped. oysters, lay it on its back in the paste, and put a bit of butter rolled in flour on the breast; close the paste in the form of a dumpling, put into hot water, ‘and let it boil for 2 hours. FISH PUDDINGS. 594, —Take 2 haddocks raw; bone them, beat them fine in a marble mortar, rub through a sieve; then put the fish into the mortar with 2 eggs, 1 onion, a little parsley, pepper and oa La ; : Cuar. XXIII. _ SWEET PUDDINGS. 425 salt, a slice of bread rubbed into crumbs, + lb. of veal suet chopped. Beat all together, put it into a shape, boil it an hour, turn it out and send it to table with a rich brown sauce. A little gravy-soup should be mixed with it whilst passing through the sieve. An excellent fish pudding may be made of eels, either alone or with kidney and oysters, as in eel-pie; some very rich beef- sauce should be made and put wader the pudding if boiled in paste, or in a sauce-boat if it be made in a shape. HERB PUDDINGS. - 695.—Pick 2 handfuls of parsley-leaves from the stems, half the quantity of spinach, hearts of 2 lettuces, a large handful of mustard and cress, a few leaves of white beet, and a small handful of chives: wash, and boil all together 8 minutes; drain the water from them, and mash very fine; mix well, and add salt and pepper. Have ready a batter, made of 1 oz. of flour, a pint of thin cream, and 2 eggs; stir it into the herbs, and cover the dish with a good crust. _ This pudding has much the favour of omelet ; and in Lent, ‘when the salads are all coming into season, it may be very aptly brought to table on fast-days. Tansy-pudding.—Pound a handful of green tansy in a mortar; add the juice to a pint of batter and bake it. —— 9 SWEET PUDDINGS. Under this head the plum-pudding stands foremost asa truly ee dish. ‘The following receipt, communicated to a periodical publication by a man-cook of much experience, we can vouch for as an excellent way of making a RICH PLUM PUDDING. 596.—Stone carefully 1 lb. of the best raisins, wash and pick 1 Ib. of currants,” chop very small 1 lb. of fresh beef suet, * The best method of cleansing currants is to put them into a common co- lander, over a pan with sufficient water to cover them, rub them well between the hands in the water to separate the knobs, and stir them about. The small sand and gravel will then fall through the holes and sink to the hottor. of the pan. After being washed clean, -and the water drained from them,, the large stones can then be easily picked out by sorting them over ona large dish,— Family Herald, y 426 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXIII. blanch and chop small or pound 2 oz. of sweet almonds and 1 oz. of bitter ones; mix the whole well together, with 1 Ib. of sifted flour, and the same weight of crumb of bread soaked in milk, then squeezed dry and stirred with a spoon until reduced to a mash, before it is mixed with the flour. Cut in small pieces 2 oz. each of preserved citron, orange, and lemon peel, and add ¢ oz. of mixed spice: ¢ lb. of moist sugar should be put into a basin, with 8 eggs, and well beaten together with a 3-pronged fork; stir this with the ‘pudding, and make it of a proper consistence with milk. Re- member that it must not be made too thin, or the fruit will sink to the bottom, but be made to the consistence of good thick batter. Two wineglassfuls of brandy should be poured over the fruit and spice, mixed together in a basin, and allowed to stand 3 or 4 hours before the pudding is made, stirring them occasionally. It must be tied ina cloth, and will take 5 hours of constant boiling. When done, turn it out on a dish, sift loaf-sugar over the top, and serve it with wine-sauce in a boat, and some poured round the pudding. The pudding will be of considerable size, but half the quantity of materials, used in the same proportion, will be equally good. In addition to the wine-sauce, have a metal sauce-boat filled with brandy ; set it alight on the table, and pour a portion of it in a flame upon each slice of pudding. It will be found a great improvement. | Shelford Pudding.—Mix |b. of currants or raisins, 1 Ib. of suet, 1 Ib. of flour, 6 eggs, a little good milk, some lemon- peel, a little salt. Boil it in a melon-shape 6 hours. Plum Puddings may also be made of different qualities, as follows :— The same proportions of flour and suet, and half the quan- tity of fruit, with spice, lemon, a glass of wine, or not, and 1 egg, and milk, will make an excellent pudding, if long boiled. A mealy potato, grated while hot, and beaten well with a spoonful of milk, will add greatly to the lightness of plum puddings, whether boiled or baked. ‘ Or :—A very light plum pudding may be made of grated bread, suet, and stoned raisins, 4 oz. each, mixed with 2 well- beaten eggs, 3 or 4 spoonfuls of milk, and a little salt. Boil 3 Cuap. XXIII. SWEET PUDDINGS. 427 4 hours. A spoonful of brandy, sugar, and nutmeg, in melted butter, may be served as sauce. Or :—The French mode—Mix 6 0z. of suet, 7 oz. of grated bread, 2 oz. of sugar, 3 lb. of French plums, 3 well-beaten eggs, a small teacupful of milk, and a dessertspoonful of ratafia. Let it stand 2 hours, and boil it the same length of time. | Observe to stir it well the last thing. | These latter puddings may also be baked. - HUNTERS PUDDING. 597.—Mix 1 lb. each of suet, flour, currants, and raisins, the latter stoned and a little cut; the rind of $ a lemon shred as fine as possible, 6 Jamaica peppers in fine powder, 4 eggs, a glass of brandy, a little salt, and as little milk as will make it of a proper consistence; boil it in a floured cloth or a melon- mould 8 or 9 hours. Serve with sweet-sauce. Add a spoon- ful of peach-water for change of flavour. This pudding will keep, after it is boiled, 6 months, if, after it is cold, it is kept tied up in/a cloth, and hung up, folded in a sheet of cap-paper to preserve it from dust. When to be used, it must boil a full hour. MONTAGU PUDDING—E. R. 598.—+4 lb. of suet chopped, but not finely, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, and 4 eggs, mixed into a batter with 4 spoonfuls of milk; add 3 lb. of raisins stoned, and a little sugar, and boil the whole 4 hours in a basin. BATTER PUDDING.—E. Rh. 599.—To 6 oz. of flour add a little salt and a gill of milk ; mix them quite smooth, beat up 4 eggs and strain them, then add them to the batter, with more milk, until the mixture is as thick as good cream. Strain the batter, and put it into a basin rubbed with butter ; tie a cloth over it, and boil it 1 hour. ¢ The excellence of a batter pudding mainly depends upon its “= being strained twice, that is, the eggs first, and then the whole ; if this point be observed, it will be as rich and as good as a custard pudding, without the danger of breaking. If it is wanted to be particularly fine, 1 or 2 eggs more may be added. Serve with melted butter, sugar, lemon-juice, and a glass of wine. Or :—Rub 8 spoonfuls of fine flour extremely smooth 428 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Omar. XXIII. degrees into a pint of milk, with a saltspoonful of salt ; simmer till it thickens ; stir in 2 oz. of butter; set it to cool; then add the yolks of 3 eggs; flour a cloth that has been wetted, or butter a basin, and put the batter into it; tie it tight, and plunge it into boiling water, the bottom upwards. Boil it 13 hour, and serve with plain butter. . Cap. XXIII. SWEET PUDDINGS. j 429 of 6 eggs, flavoured with a glass of ratafia. Bake it ina shape, but only until it is well browned. CURD PUDDING.—E. R. ~ 602.—Turn 2 quarts of milk, and drain off the curd. Beat it in a mortar with 2 oz. of butter, until the butter and curd are well united. Then beat the yolks of 6 eggs and the whites of 3; add them to the curd; add a little grated bread or biscuit, a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel, some nutmeg, and a few pounded peach kernels ; mix them well together ; butter a dish, and bake it with a crust round the edges. Currants may be added. For boiled Curd Pudding.—Rub the curd of 2 quarts of milk well drained througha sieve. Mix it with 6 eggs, a little _cream, 2 spoonfuls of orange-flower water, + a nutmeg, flour and crumbs of bread each 3 spoonfuls, currants and raisins 3 lb. of each. Boil an hour in a thick well-floured cloth. A very delicate species of curd can be made by mixing a pint of very sour butter-milk with 2 quarts of new milk. In Ireland it is the constant mode of making “ two-milk” whey. TRANSPARENT PUDDING. 603.—Beat 8 eggs very well; put them into a stewpan, with 4 lb. of sugar pounded fine, the same quantity of butter, and some nutmeg grated. Setit on the fire, and keep stirring it till it thickens. Put a rich puff-paste round the edge of the dish ; pour in the pudding when cool, and bake it in a mode- rate oven. It will cut light andclear. You may add candied orange and citron if you like. BREAD PUDDING.—E.R. 604.—Take a pint of bread-erumbs and cover them with milk ; add some cinnamon, lemon-peel, and grated nutmeg ; put them on a gentle fire until the crumbs are well soaked. Take out the cinnamon and lemon-peel, beat the crumbs and milk well together, add 4 eggs well beaten, 1 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sugar, $ lb. of currants, and boil it an hour. - An excellent Bread Pudding.—Pour a pint of boiling milk -over the crumb of 4 French rolls; when nearly cold add 6 eggs, ¢ lb. of currants, and 1 oz. of candied citron cut into dice ; mix well together ; pour it into a plain round mould, round the edges of which place a band of buttered paper ; 430 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXIII. place it in a stewpan with about 2 inches of boiling water at the bottom ; cover a sheet of paper over the pudding, and let it simmer gently over the fire, keeping the stewpan covered down close until the pudding becomes quite firm ; take off the paper, and turn it upon a dish; pour over it the following sauce :—Put 4 a pint of melted butter into a stewpan; stir into it the yolks of 2 eggs, a glass of brandy, the juice of a lemon with sugar sufficient to sweeten it ; stir it over the fire till it begins to thicken ; then strain it, and serve. Or :—Take either stale or fresh bread, of a light sort: put it into a pan, boil the milk, and when it boils pour it over the bread ; then allow it to cool, and in the mean time beat up 3 or 4 eggs with a tablespoonful of fine wheaten flour ; beat the egg and flour into the bread and milk until the whole is as light as possible. See that the water boils when you put in the pudding, and keep it boiling for 14 hour. Baked Bread Pudding.—FPrepare the milk and bread as before ; then stir in ¢ lb. of butter and the same quantity of sugar, with a tablespoonful of cinnamon-powder and grated nutmeg ; stir the whole well together, and let it cool; beat 6 eggs and stir them gradually into the mixture after it is cold. Bake it in a deep dish for 1 hour. A little chopped marrow mingled with it will be found an improvement. Brown Bread Pudding may be made with 4 lb. of stale brown bread coarsely grated, $ lb. of Valencia raisins cut in halves, the same of chopped suet ; sugar and nutmeg. Mix with 4 eggs, 2 spoonfuls of brandy, and 2 of cream ; boil it for 3 or 4 hours in a cloth or basin that exactly holds it. Serve with sweet-sauce. Prunes, or French plums, instead of raisins, make a fine pudding, either with suet or bread. BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. 605.—Make a custard of 1 egg and 4 a pint of milk, by boiling the milk with a little lemon-peel and sugar, and beat- ing up the egg in it, putting it on the fire to thicken ; butter slices of bread or French roll, and soak them for an hour or two in this mixture ; then lay them in a dish, sprinkling cur- rants between each layer, with a little pounded sugar ; and, if meant to be very nice, put some sweetmeats on the top ; but both the fruit and the sweetmeats may be omitted if thought Cuar, XXIII. SWEET PUDDINGS. 431 proper. Pour over it another 4 pint of milk beaten up with 2 eggs. BISCUIT PUDDING. 606.—Slice 4 common biscuits thin, boil them in 3 gills of new milk, with a piece of lemon-peel chopped as fine as pos- sible. Break it to a mash; to which put 3 oz. of warmed butter, 2 oz. of sugar, and 4 eggs well beaten; add a large spoonful of brandy. Bake or boil. Another.—On 3 grated stale Naples biscuits pour a pint of boiling cream ; when cold, add a teaspoonful of cinnamon in finest powder, the yolks of 4 and whites of 2 eggs, a spoonful of orange-flower water or ratafia, 2 oz. of loaf-sugar, and 4 a spoonful of flour, or almond flour, rubbed smooth. PUDDINGS OF ITALIAN PASTE. 607.—Baked Vermicelli.—Simmer 4 oz. of vermicelli in a pint of new milk 10 minutes ; then put to it + a pint of cream, a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon, 4 oz. of butter warmed, the same of white sugar, and the yolks of 4 eggs well beaten ; a little oil of almonds or a couple of spoonfuls of ratafia will much improve the flavour. Bake in a dish without a lining ; but observe that, of the 2 sorts of vermicelli, the Genoese will require ¢ and the Neapolitan only 4 an hour of baking. Boiled Vermicelli.—Stir very gently 40z. of vermicelli into a pint of new milk over the stove, until it be scalding hot, but not more; then pour it into a basin, and add to it while hot 1 oz. of butter and 2 of sugar. When the above is nearly cold, mix in it, very gently, 2 well-beaten eggs, and imme- diately put it into a basin that will exactly hold it. Cover carefully with a floured cloth; and turning the basin the nar- row end upwards, move it round for 10 minutes, and boil an hour. Serve with pudding-sauce. Macaroni.—Simmer 1 or 2 oz. of the pipe sort in a pint of milk, and a bit of lemon and cinnamon, till tender ; put it into a dish, with milk, 2 or 3 yolks of eggs, but only 1 white, sugar, nutmeg, 1 spoonful of peach-water, and 4a glass of raisin wine. Bake with a paste round the edges. A layer of orange marmalade or raspberry jam in a maca- roni pudding, for change, is a great improvement; in which case omit the almond-water or ratafia, which you would other- wise flavour it with, or with a glass of brandy. 432 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap, XXIIL. Semolina and Tapioea are similar pastes, and may be used either for baked or boiled puddings in the same way as ver- micelli. ARROWROOT PUDDING. 608.—Simmer a pint of milk with a few whole allspice, coriander-seed, and half a stick of cinnamon, for 10 or 15 minutes; then sweeten it with sugar, and strain it through a hair sieve into a basin to 14 0z. of arrowroot (about 14 table- spoonful), previously mixed with a little cold water, stirring it all the time. When cold, or as soon as the scalding heat is gone, add 3 large or 4 small eggs, well beaten, and stir until the whole is perfectly blended. It may then be boiled in a well-buttered mould or basin, or baked in a dish, with a puff- paste crust round the edge, and grated nutmeg on the top. From 4 to 2 of an hour will be sufficient to boil or bake it. When boiled, serve it with wine-sauce. The flavour of the pudding may be occasionally varied, by using a few sweet and bitter almonds blanched and finely pounded or chopped— about 1 oz. of sweet and 3 oz. of bitter—or with brandy or rum, orange-flower water or vanilla. Or :—Mix1 dessertspoonful of the powder in 2 of cold milk ; pour upon it a pint of boiling milk, in which have been dis- solved 4.02. of butter and 2 of s sugar, stirring all the time. Add a little nutmeg and 5 eggs. Bake 4 an hour in a dish lined with paste. ‘Turn it out. Preserved fruits of any kind, laid at the bottom, eat well. If to look clear, substitute water for milk. Polenta Pudding.—Mix % lb. of polenta (or maize flour) with 13 pint of milk ; let it ‘boil till it thickens ; put into it 1 oz. of butter, a little salt and cayenne pepper; bake it gently for 14 hour, Turn it out of the dish when served. This pudding is very e008 with meat. Sweet Polenta Pudding. —Mix the polenta as in the fore- going receipt: when it boils, add 1 oz. of butter, ¢ lb. of moist sugar, the same of: sultana raisins, the grated rind of a lemon, and 1 oz. of candied orange-peel sliced very finely ; mix the whole well together, and bake it 13 hour. ‘The great recommendation of this pudding is the absence of eggs, which are not required with polenta. A cheap pudding may be made by adding 2 tablespoonfuls of treacle to the polenta instead of the raisins, sugar, and candied peel. ? y ‘ Cuar. XXII. SWEET PUDDINGS. 433 Sago Pudding.—Boil 14 pint of new milk, with 4 spoon- fuls of sago nicely washed and picked, to which add lemon- peel, cinnamon, and nutmeg; sweeten to taste; then mix 4 eggs, put a paste round the dish, and bake slowly. Millet may be used in the same way. MUFF ‘IN AND CRUMPET PUDDING. 609.—A very delicate pudding may be made in a short time from a couple of muffins and 3 crumpets, placed alternately in layers, and either boiled or baked in batter. If boiled, they should be placed in an earthen jar, buttered on the inside, filled with the batter, and covered on the top. ‘The muffins should be split open, and currant-jelly, slices of apple, or any sort of fruit may be inserted. pea! fruit, after being dipped and covered in batter ; seasoned only with sugar and a little nutmeg. CHOCOLATE PUDDING. 610.—Boil a pint of new milk; dissolve in it 1 oz. of chocolate ; sweeten it with loaf-sugar; add the yolks-of 8 and the whites of 4 eggs well beaten; strain and pour it into a plain mould buttered and papered; steam it for 4 an hour ; let it settle for 10 minutes, and serve with the fol- lowing sauce :—Boil 4 a stick of vanilla in a pint of milk till it is reduced one half; strain it, sweeten with loaf-sugar, and thicken with arrowroot. SPONGE PUDDING. 611.—Butter a mould thickly, and fill it three parts full with small sponge-cakes, soaked through with wine; fill up the mould with a rich cold custard. Butter a paper, and put over the mould ; then tie a floured cloth over it quite close, and boil it an hour, ‘Turn out the pudding carefully, and pour some cold custard over it. Or :—Bake it ; and serve with wine-sauce instead of custard. COCOA-NUT PUDDING. 612.—Break the shell of a middle-sized cocoa-nut so as to leave the nut as whole as you can; grate it with a grater after having taken off the brown skin; mix with it 3 oz. of white sugar powdered, and about 4 of the peel of a lemon; mix well together with the milk, and put it into a tin lined with paste, and bake it not too brown. U. 434 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXIII, RICH PUDDINGS. 618.—Baked Rice Pudding for a family.—Put into a very deep pan 4 lb. of rice washed and picked, 2 oz. of butter, 4 oz. of sugar, and 2 quarts of milk, with a little cinnamon powder. Eggs are not necessary, but a little veal suet or marrow, chopped small, is a great improvement. Bake in a slow oven. A rich Rice Pudding.—Boil 4 |b. of rice in water with a little bit of salt, till quite tender; drain it dry; mix it with the yolks and whites of 4eggs, } pint of cream with 2 oz. of fresh butter melted in it, 4 oz. of marrow, or veal kidney suet, finely chopped, ¢ lb. of currants, 2 spoonfuls of brandy or ratafia, nutmeg, and grated lemon-peel. When well mixed, put a paste round the edge, and fill the dish. Slices of candied orange, lemon, and citron may be added if approved. Bake it for 1 hour in a moderate oven. Another—Wash 2 large spoonfuls of rice, and simmer it with $a pint of milk till thick; then put a lump of butter the size of an egg, and nearly 4 a pint of thick cream, and give it one boil. When cold, mix 4 yolks and 2 whites of eggs well beaten, sugar and nutmeg to taste, and add grated lemon and a little cinnamon. Bake # of an hour in a slowish oven, and when the pudding is ready strew over ita little powdered lump- sugar and cinnamon powder. Currants may be added to the pudding. Or :—Boil 4 a pint of rice in new milk until perfectly ten- der and not too dry; then add 6 eggs beaten, a spoonful of ratafia, sugar, and some grated fresh lemon; mix well, and bake in a mould 14 hour. Turn it on a hot dish, and stick it thick with almonds slit in 6, Serve with a rich custard round. It is equally good cold. > A boiled Rice Pudding—Soak 4 oz. of rice in water 4 an hour, then tie it up in a cloth (leaving room for it to swell) with 8 oz. of raisins. Boil it 2 hours, and then turn it out. Pour over it melted butter, with a little sugar and nutmeg. & dea Rice Pudding with Fruit—Swell the rice with a very little milk over the fire; then mix fruit of any kind with it, currants, gooseberries scalded, pared and quartered apples, raisins, or black currants, and still better red currant jelly, with 1 egg to bind the rice; boil it well, and serye with powdered cinnamon and sugar. | Ouar. XXII, * SWEET PUDDINGS. 485 Ground Rice Pudding.—Mix 3 oz. of the powder with a gill of cream; when beaten into a paste, put it into a vit of warm milk and keep it simmering for 10 minutes; then add to it a piece of.fresh butter, the yolks of 4 eggs with the white of 1, whip all together, and flavour it with pounded almonds and a glass of brandy, together with the usual ingre- dients of spice. Some persons colour and flavour it with — saffron. Bake it for ¢ an hour in a moderately heated oven. SAFFRON PUDDING. 614.—Mix # Ib. of kidney suet, cut very small and free from skin, with 1 Ib. of the finest flour, or 4 each of flour and French roll crumbled; take 3 eggs and beat them up ina pint of cream, with a glass of cognac and a tablespoonful of real saffron boiled up until the flavour is extracted ; season it also with a little pounded ginger. Put it into a floured cloth, tied tightly, but with rcom to let it swell, and boil it for nearly 3 hours. A few drops of the essential oil of saffron will give the necessary flavour. ALMOND PUDDING. ; 615.—Take 3 1b. of shelled sweet almonds, and 3 oz. of shelled bitter almonds or peach kernels ; scald and peel them; then pound them in a mortar to a fine smooth paste, free from the smallest lumps. It is best to prepare them the day before you make your pudding. Stir to a cream ¢ lb. of fresh butter and.z lb. of powdered white sugar ; and by degrees pour into it a glass each of mixed wine and brandy. Beat to a stiff froth the whites only of 12 eggs (you can preserve the yolks for other purposes), and stir alternately into the butter and sugar the pounded almonds and. the beaten white of egg. When the whole is well mixed, put it into a buttered dish, and lay puff-paste round the edge. Bake it 4 an hour, aud when done grate sugar over it. Another. —Blanch ¢ lb. of sweet and 3 oz. of bitter almonds, and beat them to a He paste, mixing them well, and adding y degrees a teacupful or more of rose-water. Boil in a pint of rich milk a few sticks of cinnamon broken up, and a few blades of mace. When the milk has come to a boil, take it off the fire ; strain it into a pan, and soak in it 5 stale rusks cut into slices. They must soak till quite dissolved. Stir to a cream ¢ lb. of fresh butter mixed with the same quantity of u2 436 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Car. XXIII. powdered loaf-sugar. Beat 10 eggs very light, yolks and whites, and then stir alternately into the butter and sugar the rusk, eggs, and almonds. Set it ona stove, and stir the whole together till very smooth and thick. Put it into a buttered dish, and bake it 2 of an hour. + Half the quantity of materials will be sufficient for a ro ceetered a - Or:—Take 23 oz. of white eee crumbs, and steep them in a pint of cream ; then pound } a pint of blanched almonds to a paste with some water. Beat yolks of 6 eggs and the whites of 3 ; mix all together, and add 8 oz. of sugar and 1 oz. of beaten butter ; put all over the fire ; stir it until it thickens, and then bake it in a puff-paste. COLLEGE PUDDINGS. 616.—Take 4b. of grated biscuit, the same quantity of currants, the same of suet finely chopped, a spoonful of sugar, and a little nutmeg; mix them together. Take the yolks of 3 eggs, and make up the puddings into balls.. Fry them a light colour in fresh butter, and serve with white-wine sauce. Or :—Boil 3 a pint of cream ; stir in lb. of butter; beat 4 eggs, lane out 2 whites, and mix them with 2 oz. of flour well dried and 1 oz. of sifted sugar. When the cream is a little cool, stir it into the flour and eggs. Let it stand for } of an hour before the fire, and then bake in a quick ¢ oven far about 25 minutes. New College-—Take a penny roll, grated, or, if desired to have the puddings particularly nice, an equal quantity of Naples biscuit pounded, ¢ lb. of suet finely minced, and 3 Ib. of cur- rants washed and picked, adding nutmeg, sugar, and a little salt. Beat up these ingredients with 8 eggs, and as much cream as will make them of a proper thickness for frying. Let the butter they are fried in be very hot ; drop in the pud- dings by spoonfuls. When dished up, put a piece of green sweetmeat on the top of each. * Or :—Take $ 1b. each of erated bread, suet, and eurrants,. with 4 oz. of sugar, and an egg well beaten up in a glass of brandy, seasoned with nutmeg; put into a mould, and ee for 3 hours. Trin. Coll.—Take 1 1b. of bread-crumbs sifted very clean, % lb. each of stoned raisins and currants, with 4 lb. of minced Guar. XXIII. § SWEET PUDDINGS. 494 and salted tongue, beef-suet, and the same quantity of marrow, or the fat of a veal kidney, all mixed together. To this add a tablespoonful of flour, beaten up with the yolks of 6 or 8 eggs, according to their size, and the whites of 2, together with 3a pint of brandy; the whole seasoned with + lb. of citron, + oz. each of ground cloves, mace, ginger, and salt, besides 4 lb. of moist sugar. Boil it in a shape for nearly _5 hours. Some cooks leave out the tongue, in which case it is a light plum-pudding. | Brasenose.*—1 |b. of suet, 1 lb. of raisins, 4 Ib. of fine bread, 4 figs chopped fine, 4 0z. of allspice, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 2 glasses of sherry (or brandy), 4 eggs, the peel of = a lemon chopped fine ; to boil 7 hours. The Merion Almond Pudding—is made with 6 oz. of almonds ground to flour, 6 oz. of sifted white sugar, a tea- spoonful of lemon-peel grated, a few drops of essence of lemon, and 8 eggs, leaving out 2 of the whites ; beat up the eggs, and mix in the other ingredients, beating the whole for an hour one way. Let the oven be ready; oil the dish, and bake the pudding the instant it is completed. The Vice-Chancellor’s Pudding.—Boil a pint of milk and cream, and pour it on a slice of bread sufficient to thicken it. Beat up 4 eggs with a couple of the whites in a glass of brandy, adding sugar and spice according to taste. Put it into a buttered shape, and set it ina pan of boiling water. Half an hour will boil it. @ The Rector’s Pudding.—+ |b. each of marrow and suet, with an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, and 2 oz. of almond powder, made into a thick batter with new milk and cream. Then take the yolks of 5 eggs with the white of 1, and beat them up in brandy. Mix all the ingredients together, sea- soning it with a very little salt and sugar to taste. [ither boil it for 2 to 3 hours in a floured cloth, or put it into a mould and bake it in a slow oven until thoroughly done. When taken out, stick it over with blanched almonds. The Curate’s Pudding.—To 1 |b. of mashed potatoes, while hot, add 4 oz. of suet and 2 oz. of flour, a little salt, and as much milk as will give it the consistency of common suet ® Translated from a receipt in Herodotus, b. ii. c. 40. 438 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Omar. XXIII. pudding. Put it into a dish, or roll it into dumplings, and bake of a fine brown. Dame Jones’s.—1 pint of cream, 8 yolks and 5 whites of egos; melt ¢ lb. of butter in a little of the cream; then mix in ¢ lb. of sugar; when cool put in ¢ Ib. of fine flour and the eggs. This quantity will make 8 puddings, baked in small basins, at the bottom of which put a tablespoonful of currants well washed. Bake % an hour, and pour over them brandy or wine sauce. Aunt Martha’s.—Boil 4a pint of milk with a laurel-leaf and a bit of cinnamon; pour it upon a cupful of grated bread; add 3 eggs well beaten, a little grated nutmeg and lemon-peel, and a teaspoonful of orange-flower water. Sweeten to the taste. Butter the basin; stick plums or split raisins in rows upon it. Stir the ingredients of the pudding well toge- ther, and pour it into the basin, and boil it 19 hour. Mother Eves Pudding.—Grate ? lb. of bread; mix it with the same quantity of chopped suet, the same of apples and also of currants ; mix with these the whole of 4 eggs, and the rind of $ a lemon shred fine. Put it into a shape; boil 3 hours, and serve with pudding-sauce, the juice of 4 a lemon, and a little nutmeg. ERECHTHEUM PUDDING. 617.—Take 6 fresh eggs ; let them be well beaten for 2 or 3 minutes in a basin; then add 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, a small pinch of salt, and 1 pint of milk. Flavour this mixture with 6 props of essence of kernels; butter a mould which will hold the pudding ; put it into a stewpan with water sufficient to come half way up the mould ; place it by the side of the fire for about 4 an hour. © It must not boil, but keep as near that heat as possible. As soon as the mixture has set, the pudding is done. When about to serve it, break 2 fresh eggs into a stewpan that will hold a pint, 2 teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, 2 drops of the essence of kernels ; place it over a very slow fire for + of a minute, merely to warm the stewpan. Whisk it with an iron whisk for 2 minutes, which will produce a very strong froth, and pour it over the pudding. Be very careful not to let the pudding boil, and not to make the eggs too warm before beating them for the sauce. Cuap. XXIIL SWEET PUDDINGS. 439 QUAKING PUDDING. 618.—Scald a quart of cream; when almost cold put to it 4 eggs well beaten, 13 spoonful of flour, some nutmeg and sugar; tie it close ina buttered cloth, boil it an hour, and turn it out with care, lest it should crack. Serve with wine sauce. BRANDY PUDDING. 619.—Line a mould with jar-raisins stoned, or dried cher- ries, then with thin slices of French roll, next to which put ratafias, or macaroons; then again fruit, rolls, and cakes in succession until the mould be full, sprinkling in, at times, 2 wineglassfuls of brandy. Beat up 4 eggs, yolks and whites; put to a pint of milk or cream, lightly sweetened, + a nutmeg and the rind of 3 a lemon finely grated. Let the liquid sink into the solid part; then flour a cloth, tie it tight over, and boil 1 hour. Keep the mould the right side up. Serve with pudding-sauce. THE BAKEWELL PUDDING. 620.—Beat the yolks of 4 eggs and the whites of 2 with 4 ib. of powdered loaf-sugar and ¢ lb. of clarified butter ; when well mixed, place it over the fire, and keep it constantly stirred till it thickens. Line a dish with puff-paste, and putin a layer of candied peel about an inch thick; then pour the mixture over it and bake it in a slow oven. On this, however, it has been remarked by an intelligent cook, that “it will be found too sweet for most palates. I have frequently had occasion to make this pudding for both large and small parties, and have found that the addition of 3 a pint of milk, or milk and cream, to the eggs and sugar, with a little ratafia, or noyeau and brandy, to flavour it, has been considered a great improvement. I add the milk to the eggs and sugar when it is near boiling, without placing the mixture on the fire at all. Instead of using all candied peel, I prefer adding a portion of preserved fruits, such as dried cherries, greengages, and melon or pine-apple cut small ; and, when baked, occasionally spread over the top or ornament it with some apricot or raspberry jam, or some of each, to vary the colour. When made in this way, it has been universally admired.” 440 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Onap. XXIII. a A BLACK-CAP PUDDING.—E. R. 621.—Rub 8 tablespoonfuls of flour, smooth, by degrees into a pint of milk, strain it, and simmer it over the fire until it thickens ; stir in 2 oz. of butter ; when cool add the yolks of 4 eggs beaten and strained, and 4 lb. of currants washed and picked, laid at the bottom of the basin or mould previously well buttered. Put the batter into the mould, cover it tight, and plunge it into boiling water ; the currants downwards, that they may stick to the bottom and thus form the black cap. : : A SWEETMEAT PUDDING. 622.—Cover a dish with thin puff-paste, and lay in it freshly candied orange, lemon, and citron, 1 oz. each, sliced thin. Beat the yolks of 8 and the whites of 2 eggs, and mix with 8 oz. of butter warmed, but not oiled, and 8 oz. of white sugar, Pour the mixture over the sweetmeats, and bake 1 hour in a moderate oven. ROLY-POLY PUDDING. 623.—Make a rich pudding-paste with flour and butter, without suet, but as light as possible. Roll it out thin, and cut it to the breadth of 8 or 10 inches, making it at the same time as long as you please ; but 4 lb. of flour and 5 oz. of butter, wetted with water, will probably be sufficient when rolled out quite smooth; then spread upon it a thick layer of raspberry, currant, or any other sort of jam, but leave about an inch ef all the edges bare. That done, roll it round; the roll of paste will secure the fruit, and the ends must be twisted together for the same purpose. Wrap it in a nicely floured cloth, and boil it for 2 to 8 hours according to size. Take it up quite’ hot, and when served cut it crosswise. It may appear homely, but it is an excellent and much-admired pudding. CABINET PUDDING.—E. R. 624.—Take 10 penny sponge-cakes or biscuits, 6 oz. of dried cherries or sultana raisins, yolks of 6 eggs with the whites of 4; beat up the eggs with a little nutmeg and sugar and a pint of milk ; butter the mould very completely, and lay the cherries or raisins in a pattern round the bottom and sides; break each cake into 4 pieces, and lay them close to the fruit to keep it from falling; then fill up the mould with the cus- tard. Lay a piece of paper over the top, put it into a stew- Cuar. XXIII. SWEET PUDDINGS. : 441 ee nearer a ee a Ee pan with 2 inches depth of boiling water, and be careful that the lid of the stewpan fits quite cluse to keep in the steam: 4 of an hour will boil it. THE CONSERVATIVE PUDDING. -625.—+ lb. of ratafia and macaroon cakes mixed, 4 sponge biscuits, the yolks of 8 eggs, + pint of cream, and a glass of brandy, well beaten together, the cakes being soaked in the cream and brandy. Butter a quart mould, place dried cherries or stoned raisins in a pattern over it, pour in the mixture, and place the mould in a stewpan surrounded by water, and let it simmer 14 hour over charcoal. THE REFORM PUDDING. 626.—Take 3 eggs, weigh them in the shell; take an equal weight of sugar and of butter, and 3 of the weight of flour. Half melt the butter and beat it to a cream; beat the eggs also, and mix them with the butter and sugar, beating the whole to a froth; then add the flour, and the rind of a lemon grated; beat all together, and pour it into a mould: an hour will boil it. This pudding may also be baked, substituting cream for the butter, which would render it more delicate than butter subjected to the dry heat of an oven. THE PROTECTIONIST PUDDING. 627.—Break 7 eggs into a deep pan, leaving out 3 of the whites. Put 10 oz. of loaf-sugar in a-pint of water; set it over the fire until the scum rises ; pourit over the eggs ; add a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel and the juice of a lemon. Whisk them for 20 minutes ; shake in 4 Ib. of flour; pour it into a tin, and put it into the oven immediately. WINDSOR PALACE PUDDINGS. 698.—Boil 1 oz. of rice in milk until it will beat into a pap; pare, core, and scald 6 apples, and beat them also with the rice, 1 oz. of finely-sifted sugar, a saltspoonful of grated lemon-peel, and a little lemon-juice, or a few drops of essence of lemon ; then beat the whites of 4 eggs until they make a strong froth; add the other ingredients, whisking them well together, so as to be very light. Dip a basin or mould into boiling water ; pour in this soutilé while the mould is quite hot, and put the mould into a pan of boiling water, boiling until the white of the eggs is sct and firm. Have a custard >. ry UO % - 442 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar. XXIII made with the yolks of the eggs, and pour it round the pud- ding ina dish. Snow-balls may be made the same way, with pounded almonds substituted for apples. The elegance and lightness of this pudding are great recommendations. Her Majesty's Pudding.—Butter a mould, and cover it in : pattern with sweetmeats of various colours, and fruit ; cut 3 sponge-cakes in slices, and soak them in white wine ; place them round the mould; make a fine custard with 4 eggs, a pint of cream, and 2 oz. of pounded almonds ; pour it in, and boil it for an hour. Prince Albert's Pudding.—Put 1 lb. of butter into a saucepan with 2 lb. of loaf-sugar finely powdered ; mix them well together ; then add the yolks of 6 eggs well beaten, and as much fresh candied orange as will add colour and flavour, being first beaten toa fine paste. Line the dish with paste for turning out; and when filled with the above, lay a crust over, as if it were a pie, and bake it in a slow oven. It is as good cold as hot. Royal Nursery Pudding.—Pour scalding milk upon white bread sliced ; let it stand till well soaked ; then beat it well with 4 eggs, a little sugar and grated nutmeg. Bake in small teacups, which must be only half filled. Or :—Steep the crumb of a penny loaf, grated, in about a pint of warm milk; when soaked, beat 4 eggs, and mix with the bread; add 2 oz. of moist sugar, orange-flower water, a spoonful of wine, a little nutmeg, and a teacupful of cream. Beat all well, and bake in teacups buttered. Or :—Add 4 eggs, the whites and yolks, 2 oz. of white pounded sugar, and 2 tablespoonfuls of flour ; beat the whole up slowly, fill 6 small cups, and bake them for 20 minutes. Serve with wine sauce. The absence of butter will render these puddings very agreeable to delicate stomachs. Creme d’ Orge.—Boil in new milk 4 oz. of French or Scotch barley till perfectly tender, the superfluous part of which throw off; and having added to the barley a pint of cream, 2 eges beaten, 4 oz. of sugar, the same of butter a little warm, 1 spoonful of rose-water, and a little nutmeg, cover it over for 1 hour, and stir it often. Bake in a buttered dish 4 an hour. « - -— -.* Ouar. XXIII SWEET PUDDINGS. 448 > QUEEN DOWAGERS PUDDING. 629.—Beat + lb. of fresh butter, with the same quantity of loaf-sugar, till it is like cream ; then add 6 eggs well beaten, % Ib. of flour, ¢ lb. of currants, 2 oz. of candied orange or lemon-peel cut Pat very thin slices, and 20 drops of essence of lemon. After the ingredients are all mixed, beat the whole for 10 minutes, then put it into a well-buttered mould, and boil it for 24 hours. PUDDING FOR THE MAIDS-OF-HONOUR.—E. R. 630.—Boil 1 quart of cream, with a blade of mace, 3 cloves, and = a nutmeg grated, and let it stand to cool. Beat 8 eggs, but only 3 whites; strain, and mix them with 1 spoonful of the finest flour, ¢ lb. of almonds blanched and beaten fine, with 1 spoonful of orange-flower or rose water. Mix these by de- grees in the cream, and stir all well together. ‘Take a thick cloth, wet and flour it well; pour in the mixture, tie it close, and plunge it into boiling water. Keep it boiling + an hour very fast. When done, turn it carefully on a dish, strew fine sugar upon it, and serve pudding-sauce round. THE CAMBRIDGE PUDDING. 631.—Beat up 4 eggs with 1 tablespoonful of sugar and 1 of flour very smoothly ; then add 1 lb. of raisins and 1 Ib. of the fat of a cold loin of veal, or of suet, evenly chopped ; butter a mould, put in the pudding, tie it tightly in a cloth, and let it boil 5 hours. THE PRINCE OF PRUSSIA’S PUDDING. 632.—Take the yolks of 6 eggs, with 6 oz. of sugar, and the grated rind of a lemon, and beat them to a solid froth. The whites of the eggs to be beaten separately and till quite a snow froth ; add the juice of the lemon, and mix all together. Put it immediately into a deep tin pudding-dish, and bake it 10 or 15 minutes. It rises very high, and should be served directly it is done. Pour round it the following sauce :—Beat up well 4 eggs, 2 oz. of sugar, the juice and grated peel of a lemon ; add 2 wineglassfuls of white wine and a little arrack; stir it over the fire till it begins to rise, then pour it round the pudding quite hot. DUTCH enki Magia —E. R. 633.—Melt 4b. of butter in ¢ pint of milk, let it stan 444 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXIII [inc SS till it is lukewarm, then strain it into 1 Ib. of flour, add 4 eggs well beaten, and 2 large spoonfuls of yeast; beat the whole very well together, and let it stand for an hour before the fire to rise. Then beat into it 2 spoonfuls of moist sugar and = lb. of currants ; put it into a dish or tin well buttered, and when baked turn it out before sending to table. This partakes of the character of brioche, and may be varied in many ways. MADEIRA PUDDING.—E. RB. 634.—Have a tin cake-mould, of which the bottom will come out; butter it, and lay upon it a piece of paste the size of the mould; cover it with preserve of apricots; then lay another piece of paste, and cover this with red preserves, and so on in different layers, with paste between, until the mould is filled. Boil, and serve with brandy sauce. This is a rich pudding, for which the island of Madeira is very famous. Great care will be necessary in taking it out of the mould ; and it will take a long time to boil properly. A GERMAN PUDDING. 635,—Boil until very tender a handful of whole rice in a small quantity of milk, with a large piece of lemon-peel. Let it drain; then mix with it a dozen of good-sized apples boiled to a pulp as dry as possible: add a glass of white wine, the yolks of 5 eggs, 2 oz. of orange and citron cut thin; make it pretty sweet. Line a mould or basin with a very good paste ; beat the 5 whites of the eggs to a very strong froth, and mix with the other ingredients; fill the mould, and bake it of a fine brown colour. A very fine German Pudding.—Pour 4 a pint of boiling milk upon 1 lb. of bread-crumbs ; beat up ¢ lb. of fresh but- ter toa cream; add to it the yolks of 10 eggs well beaten ; drain the milk from the bread, and add the bread with Z lb. of pounded sugar and the grated peel of a lemon ; whip the whites of the 10 eggs into a solid froth, and add them the last thing : butter a cloth, and put the pudding in, tying it loose, as it will swell out a good deal; plunge it into boiling water; boil 1 hour. Some persons add ¢ lb. of jar raisins slit and stoned. When turned out stick the surface with sliced almonds, and ae: with the following sauce :— Take 1 pint of cream, 1 pint of sweet raisin wine, 4 oz. of Ss Cuap, XXIII, SWEET PUDDINGS. 445 sugar rubbed on the peel of a lemon, and let them boil; add the yolks of 6 eggs well beaten and the juice of the lemon ; mix them well; make the sauce quite hot, but do not let it boil again; pour some over the pudding, serving the re- mainder in a sauce-boat. A SWISS PUDDING. 636.—In many parts of the Continent, as well as throughout Switzerland, it is customary to put layers of crumbs of bread and sliced apples, with sugar between, till the dish be as full as it will hold. Let the crumbs be the uppermost layer ; then put butter warmed over it, and bake. BERLIN PUDDING. 637.—Mix 6 oz. of flour in | pint of milk, with 2 oz. of sugar and 1 oz. of butter; simmer till it begins to thicken; beat ‘5 oz. of butter to a cream ; adda pinch of salt and the peel of a lemon pounded, 6 eggs, the yolks and whites beaten sepa- rately till in a solid froth ; mix all with the thickened milk the instant before it is put into the basin. ‘This pudding may be boiled, but is better baked. ‘To be eaten with cherry or plum Sauce, POUDING A LA. NESSELRODE. (From an eminent Tavern-heeper.) 638.—For a 2-quart mould boil a sufficient quantity of ches- nuts to produce a quart of meal* after being pounded and rubbed througha tammy. Boil ¢lb. of sugar in 1 pint of water, with a stick of vanilla, until it is reduced one-third. Boil 1 pint of cream, add it to the chesnut-flour, then add the syrup ‘and 12 yolks of eggs beat up ; set it over the fire, stir it until it nearly boils. When cold, put the composition into a freezing- pot ; when it is frozen, add 4 a pint of whipped cream, 3 whites of eggs whipped up strong, a handful of raisins stoned, chopped, and soaked for a day in maraschino, as many currants, 14 oz. of chopped.candied lemon-peel, and a glass of maras- chino ; stir these ingredients all well together, freeze it again, and put it into the mould. PUDDING OF PRUNES OR FRENCH PLUMS. 639.—Scald 1 Ib. of prunes, cover them, and let them swell in hot water till they are soft, then drain them and extract the stones ; spread the fruit on a large dish, and dredge them with, * The meal should be pressed into the measure. A ol a 446 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Omar. XXIIL flour. ‘Take 2 wineglassfuls of good-unskimmed milk, and stir it gradually into a smooth batter with a teacupful of fine flour, © Beat up 6 eggs very lightly, and stir them by degrees into rather less than 1 quart of milk, alternately with the batter you have just mixed; then add the plums by degrees, and stir the whole together. Tie the pudding in a cloth that has been dipped in boiling water and then dredged with flour; leave room for it to swell, but secure it firmly so that no water can get in. Put it into boiling water, and boil it continually for 2 hours: do not take it out of the pot till the moment before it is wanted ; serve with pudding-sauce. PUMPKIN PUDDING. 640.—Take 1 pint of pumpkin that has been stewed soft and pressed through a colander; melt in} pint of warm milk + lb. of butter and the same quantity of sugar, stirring them well together: 1 pint of rich cream will be better than milk and butter. Beat 8 eggs very light, and add them gradually to the other ingredients alternately with the pumpkin ; then stir in a wineglass of rose-water and 2 glasses of wine mixed to- gether, a large teaspoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon mixed, and a grated nutmeg. Having stirred the whole very hard, put it into a buttered dish, and bake it ¢ of an hour. ORANGE PUDDING 641.—May be made with 6 ripe oranges, 3 of Seville and 3 of Lisbon, all peeled; the rinds to be beaten in a mortar with 4 lb. each of fresh butter and moist sugar, to which add the yolks of 6 or 8 eggs, and make the whole into a batter with the juice of only the Lisbon oranges: the number of eggs to be regulated by the size of the. fruit. Put the materials into a mould, with a paste around but not over it, and bake it for + an hour. An exceedingly nice Boiled Orange Pudditg.—On 4 Ib. of crumbs of bread pour 1 pint of milk; let it boil up; stir in 2 oz. of butter and 1 oz. of marrow, keeping the pan over the fire until all is incorporated. Let it become cold; then mix in 2 eggs, 2 oz. of sugar, 2 oz. of orange marmalade, and 1 spoonful of orange-flower water. Choose a basin that will exactly hold it, and tie it over with a floured cloth very closely. Boil it 14 hour. : Or :—Take the rind of 2 oranges, pared very thin or e Pi — Curap. XXII. SWEET PUDDINGS. 447 COO cocvO0O CO LL grated ; beat the yolks of 10 eggs; put the orange-peel and + lb. of pounded loaf-sugar into the eggs. If there is time let it stand all night, if not, at least 2 or 3 hours; then add 4 Ib. of butter. Line a dish with puff-paste, pour in the mixture, and bake lightly. For sauce :—Melted butter, sugar, a little lemon-juice, and 1 spoonful of brandy. LEMON PUDDING. 642.—Melt 6 oz. of butter, and pour it over the same quan- tity of powdered loaf-sugar, stirring it well till cold. ‘Then grate the rind of a large lemon, and add it with 8 eggs well beaten, and the juice of 2 lemons ; stir the whole till it is com- pletely mixed together, and bake the pudding with a paste round the dish. Or :—Take 14 Ib. of bread-crumbs, ¢ lb. of finely-chopped suet, the rind of 2 lemons grated and the juice of 1, 2 eggs well beaten; mix the whole with ¢ lb. of sugar sifted, and boil it ¢ of an hour. Or :—Pare 6 lemons finely, and boil the peel till it is ten- der ; then pound it in a mortar, add the juice of 3 lemons, and ¢ lb. of butter melted into a little cream, 3 sponge or ratafia cakes, the yolks of 6 eggs and the whites of 3; mix all up well together, with sugar to the taste, adding a little nutmeg - and brandy. AN APPLE CHARLOTTE—E. R. 643.—Pare and slice a quantity of apples ; cut off the crust of a loaf, and cut slices of bread and butter. Butter the inside of a pie-dish, and place bread and butter all round ; then put in a layer of apples sprinkled with lemon-peel chopped very fine, and a considerable quantity of good brown sugar. Then put ona layer of bread and butter, and another of apples, lemon-peel, and sugar, until the dish is full, squeezing over the juice of lemons, so that every part shall be equally fla- voured. Cover up the dish with the crusts of the bread and the peels of the apples, to prevent it from browning or burn- ing: bake it 1t hour; then take off the peels and the crust, and turn it out of the dish. The above is the most usual mode of making it, but the an- nexed receipt is an improvement, furnished by a cook of high reputation. Charlot ommes.— Take 4 a quartern loaf, cut the <4 « ae, Pe ‘See ' 448 MODERN le COOKERY. Cuar. XXI, crumb in slices ¢ inch thigigent out of it as s many pieces with an inch-round cutter as are required. Oil some butter, dip the round pieces of bread into it, and then place them ina _ plain mould in any way you please. Make a little crust with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, worked up stiff with flour and water ; roll it out exceedingly thin, and then lay it inside the bread (this is merely to keep the apple from burst- __ ing the bread). Boil sufficient apples to fill the mould, with a bit of cinnamon and green lemon-peel, add sugar to taste, a little nutmeg, and a small piece of fresh butter ; when the apple is rather stiff fill the mould, cover witha piece of bread; bake for 1 hour. If the bread is cut in long thin strips, and these made to lap one over the other, the lining of paste may be dispensed with. APPLES A LA CREMONE 644.—Form also a, beautiful dish. Choose such apples as will look clear when dressed; pare and cut into pieces the form of a brick a sufficient ‘quantity to weigh 14 1b.; strew over them 14 lb. of good Lisbon sugar and several long strips of lemon-peel, and cover them close in a bowl. Next day put the apples, piece by piece, into a small preserving-pan, with the sugar, &c., and 2 large spoonfuls of strong cider. Simmer gently ; and as the pieces of apple become clear, take them out. When cold, build a wall with them on a small oval dish, and place the lemon-peel on the top; pour the syrup into the middle. Serve cream to eat with it. ‘The peel of China orange, cut very thin, does as well as Jemon; but the rind of Seville orange always gives a higher a flavour. | Apples a la Suédoise-—Let the apples be pared and cored, but not cut apart, and simmer gently in a thin syrup of sugar and water till tender ; drain them, and fill the middles with any rich preserve: place them on a dish in . raised the shape of a hedgehog. Have ready a compote of apples made by boiling 3 or 4 Ibs., as for marmalade, sweetened and fla- voured with lemon ; pour this over the apples so as to fill up the space between each; and to cover them spread over an icing made by the whites of 3 eggs beaten to a froth, with 2 large tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar: make the surface quite even, then sift over it some fine sugar. Blanch and slice lengthwise sufficient almonds to thickly stick oyer the whole ; Cuar, XXIII. SWEET PUDDINGS. — 449 when done, put the dish into the ee ven, letting the apples be warmed through and the almond slightly browned. ‘The number required must depend upon thi size of the dish, but there should be sufficient to give the necessary shape. ‘They may be stirred 2 or 3 sets in the same syrup, which should have ¢ lb. of sugar to 1 pint of water. Apples «@ la Dauphine likewise form a very nice corner dish as thus:—Pare some of the large sort, make a hole at the end and scoop out the greater part of the pulp; havea rich custard, with which fill up the hollow; cover the apples with thin paste, ornamenting the tops with strips of it, and bake them in pans. A CHARTREUSE OF APPLES AND RICE. 645.—Boil 6 oz. of rice with a stick of cinnamon in milk until it is thick, stirring in a spoonful of rose-water or orange- flower water. Pare 10 or 12 apples—golden pippins are the best—scoop out the core, and fill up the orifice with rasp- berry-jam. Border a deep dish with paste; put in the apples, leaving a space between, and fill it up with the rice. Brush the whole over with the yolk of an egg, and sift sugar thickly over it; form a pattern on the top with sweetmeats, and bake it for 1 hour in a quick oven. MIROTON OF APPLES. 646.—Scald the apples, reduce them to a pulp; and pile them high upon the dish in which they are to be served; boil 1 teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel and 6 or 8 lumps of sugar in a.teacupful of water ; then add the yolks of 3 eggs and the white of 1, 3 oz. of butter, 1 spoonful of flour, and 1 of brandy ; mix the whole together over the fire, and stir it quite smooth. Pour it upon the apples, then whisk the whites of the other 2 eggs to a froth; put them over the miroton just as it is going into the oven, and sift some sugar over it. ‘The oven must be slow: it will take 10 or 15 minutes to bake. POMMES AU BEURRE, OR BUTTERED APPLES. 647.—Peel the apples and remove the core without cutting them through, taking care not to break them. Cut slices of bread the circumference of the apples, butter a dish, put on the bread, and place an apple on each slice. Fill the hole made by the removal of the core with white sugar, place a * —_ 450 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Csar. XXTI. is % wz ~ piece of butter the size PF walnut on each hole; put them into a gentle oven, and renew the sugar and butter several times. ‘They will take 20 or 30 minutes. Be very careful not to let the bread burn, or the apples lose their shape. GATEAU DE POMMES. 648.—Boil sufficient apples (flavoured with cinnamon, cloves, and green lemon-peel) to nearly fill a 14-pint pudding- mould. Pass them through a sieve, add sugar to taste, and 2 tablespoonfuls heaped of potato-flour ; stir it over the fire, and, when rather stiff, add 5 or 6 eggs; boil in a mould for 1 hour. Serve with a cream-sauce thickened with potato-flour and flavoured with noyeau. POMME MANGE. 649.—Peel and core 1 lb. of apples, and put them with $ lb. of sugar and ¢ pint of water into a stewpan; add the peel of a lemon. Allow it to boil until it becomes quite stiff, and then put itinto a mould. It will be found excellent. e FRUIT PUDDINGS. 650.—Cranberry Pudding.—Boil 14 pint of cranberries, cleared of the stalks, in 4 oz. of sugar and water, until they are broken and forma kind of jam. Make up a large ball of it; cover it well with rice washed clean and dry; then round each fold a floured piece of cloth, which tie as for dumplings. Boil them 1 hour; sift sugar over when served, and butter in a boat. Khubarb Pudding.—Cut small sufficient stalks of rhubarb to weigh about 1 Ib. or 14 lb., which put into a clean sauce- pan with 8 or 10 oz. of sugar, the rind of 1 lemon grated, the juice, and 3a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. Place the whole on the fire and stir it occasionally at first, but con- stantly at last, until reduced to a sort of marmalade; take it from the fire, and, if appearance is to be regarded, pass it through a hair sieve into a basin ; mix with it about an ounce or two of good sweet butter, or a little good cream. Line rather a flat dish with puff-paste, thin at the bottom but thick on the edge. When the preparation is cold fill the dish as far as the edge, and bake it in a moderate oven until the paste is done. Quince Pudding.—Scald some quinces Hier are very - Bs ss » Cuar. XXIII. FRUIT PUDDINGS. 451 tender ; pare them, and scrape off all the pulp. Strew over them ginger, cinnamon, and as much sugar as will make them very sweet. To 1 pint of cream put the yolks of 3 or 4 eggs, and stir into as much of the pulp as will make it of a proper thickness. Line a dish, and bake. White pears, plums, apricots, or other fruit, may be done in the same way. An excellent Apricot Pudding.—Have 12 large apricots, give them a scald till they are soft; meantime pour on the rated crumbs of a penny loaf 1 pint of boiling cream ; when half cold, add 4 oz. of sugar, the yolks of 4 beaten eggs, and 1 glass of white wine. Break the apricot-stones, take some or all of the kernels, pound them ina mortar, and mix them with the fruit and other ingredients ; put a paste round a dish, and bake the pudding $ an hour. . Baked Apple Pudding.—Pare and quarter 4 large applet boil them tender, with the rind of a lemon, in so little water that, when done, none may remain ; beat them quite firm in a mortar ; add the crumb of a small roll, 4 oz. of butter melted, the yolks of 5 and whites of 3 eggs, juice of 4 a lemon, and sugar to taste; beat all together, and lay it in a dish with paste to turn out. Or :—Put the pulp of the apples in the centre of a baking dish, surround it with custard, and bake it until brown. Or :—Take ¢ lb. of the pulp of the sharpest apples you can get; add 6 oz. of pounded loaf-sugar, the same of butter (melted), the grated rind of 1 lemon and the juice, a glass of white wine, a little nutmeg, the yolks of 8 eggs and the whites of 4, well beaten. Mix these well together, and bake in a dish lined with paste. Fruit sliced into Batter makes an excel’ economical pudding, and is considered much more digestible than when put into paste. A little of the batter should be put into the dish, and if apples are used they should be pared and carefully cored, then cut into slices, and a little sugar and grated lemon- peel strewed between them, the dish filled three parts full with the remainder of the batter. To make Batter for Fruit Puddings.—Put + lb. of flour and a saltspoonful of salt intoa pan, add very gently 4 pint of milk ; if mixed carelessly the flour will remain in lumps ; beat up the whites of 4 eggs, strain them to the batter, and ry ° « q 452 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXIII. well with a wooden spoon. ‘The whites should be beaten sepa- rately to a solid froth, and not added till just before the batter is used. AC fruit the batter should be rather thicker than when plain, to prevent the fruit sinking to the bottom of the dish or basin, as it is equally good baked or boiled. It must be brought to a proper consistency by adding milk. Baked Gooseberry Pudding.—Stew gooseberries in a jar over a hot hearth, or in a saucepan of water, till they will pulp. Take a pint of the juice pressed through a coarse sieve, and beat it with 8 yolks and whites of eggs beaten and strained, with 14 oz. of butter; sweeten it well, and put a crust round the dish. A few crumbs of roll, or 4 oz. of Naples biscuit, should be mixed with the above to give a little consistency. .. Raspberries and currants may be used instead of goose- berries, and are equally good. Damsons.—Take a few spoonfuls from a quart of milk, and mix into it by degrees 4 spoonfuls of flour, 2 spoonfuls of sifted ginger, a little salt ; then add the remainder of the milk and 1 lb. of damsons. Tieit upina cloth, wetted and well floured, or put it into a basin that will exactly hold it. Boil it 24 hour, and pour over it melted butter and sugar. TO PREPARE FRUIT FOR CHILDREN. 651.—A far more wholesome way than in Pies or Puddings —is to put apples sliced, or plums, eurrants, gooseberries, &c., inte a stone jar; and sprinkle among them as much Lisbon sugar as necessary. Set the jar in an oven or on a hearth, with- a teacupful of water to prevent the fruit from burning; or put the jar into a saucepan of water till its contents be per- fectly done. Slices of bread or some rice may be put into the jar, to eat Witjpaghe fruit. CARROT PUDDING. 652.—Boil a large carrot till tender, bruise and mix it with a spoonful of bread-crumbs, 4 yolks and 2 whites of eggs, a pint of cream, a ratafia, a large spoonful of orange- flower water, a nutmeg, 2 oz. of loaf-sugar. Bake in a shal- low dish lined with paste, and when it is turned out strew. sugar over it. 2 Or :—4 oz. of bread-crumbs, 4 0z. of suet, 4 oz. of grated raw carrot, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, beaten up with an egg, and flavoured with cinnamon and nutmeg. Boil 3 hours. a Cuap. XXIII. PROVINCIAL PUDDINGS. 453 An excellent plain Potato Pudding.—Take 8 oz. of boiled potatoes, 2 oz. of butter, the yolks and whites of 2 eggs, } pint of cream, 1 spoonful of white wine, a morsel of salt, the juice and rind of a lemon; beat all to froth; sugar to taste. A crust or not, as you like. Bake it. If wanted richer, put 3 oz. more butter, sweetmeats and almonds, and another egg ; . . ° A Do? or if plainer, omit the wine. An economical Pudding may be made of $ lb. of flour, 3 Ib. of currants, 4 Ib. of suet well chopped, and 4 oz. of treacle, with milk sufficient to mix it well together into a stiff paste or batter, the stiffness of boiled rice. Butter a basin, and let it boil 5 hours. When cold it may be sliced and browned. HASTY PUDDING. 653.—Boil 1 pint of milk, stir 2 oz. of flour into it till it be thick and stiff; put it into a basin and add 4 oz. of butter with a little nutmeg, and sugar enough to sweeten it. When cold mix in 3 well-beaten eggs; line a dish with thin paste, and in the bottom of it put a layer of marmalade, or any other pre- serve, and bake the pudding in a moderate oven for 4 an hour. It is good without paste, and may be baked in a Dutch oven. Or :—Boil 1 pint of milk, stir into it as much flour as will thicken it, letting it boil all the time; pour it into plates, and eat it hot, with cold butter and sugar, or, if butter is objected to, a little cold milk and a little nutmeg. PROVINCIAL PUDDINGS. 654.— Wiltshire Pudding.—3 well-beaten eggs, 1 pint of milk, sufficient flour to make a thick batter, a little salt ; beat it some minutes, stir in gently a large teacupful of picked currants and half that quantity of red raspberries ; boil in a cloth for 2 hours, turn it out on the dish, and cut in thin slices, but do not separate them ; put between each butter and brown sugar. Bath Pudding —Half a pint of cream, ¢ lb. of butter, boiled together, the crumbs of a twopenny lvaf, lump sugar and brandy to your taste, 4 eggs. Bake them in small cups < of an hour. Chichester Pudding.—To the grated crumbs of a French roll, mixed with tke grated rind of 4. lemon, add 4 oz. of 454 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXIII, sifted sugar, the same of butter, the juice of 3 a lemon, the yolks of 4 S88 the whites of 2, both being previously well . beaten ; stir it over the fire till it is the thickness of cream ; then pour it into an open tart-paste and bake it in a moderate oven. : * Yorkshire Pudding.—Put 1 pint of boiling milk to the crumb of a penny loaf, 4 eggs, a little salt and flour ; put it in a tin and bake it under roast beef or mutton. A Welsh Pudding.—Let % lb. of fine butter melt gently, beat with it the yolks of 8 and whites of 4 eggs, mix in 6 oz. of loaf-sugar, and the rind of a lemon grated. Put a paste into a dish for turning out, and pour the above in, and nicely bake it. Gloucester Puddings.—Weigh 3 eggs in the shell; take their weight in flour and butter; take 12 bitter almonds and 5 oz. of pounded sugar ; beat all together for 4 an hour, and put the mixture in pudding-cups, filling the cups only half full. Bake them 4 an hour. DUMPLINGS. -655.— Oxford Dumplings.—Of grated bread 2 oz., cur- rants and shred suet 4 oz. each, 2 large spoonfuls of flour, a great deal of grated lemon-peel, a bit of sugar, and a little pimento in fine powder. Mix with 2 eggs and a little milk into 5 dumplings, and fry of a fine yellow brown. Made with flour instead of bread, but half the quantity, they are excellent. Serve with sweet-sauce. Apple Dumplings should be made of 1 large apple quar- tered and cored, then put together, covered with a thin paste, and boiled till the fruit shall be done enough. Or :—The apple is best not cut, but the core scooped out, and the centre filled up with a piece of butter and sugar, ac- cording to the tartness of the apple. The paste should not be rolled out, but a lump of the proper quantity taken, the apple placed upon it, and the paste carefully pressed round it: bringing it to a point which is easily closed, so as to keep in the juice and butter. They have a pretty effect if boiled in nets instead of cloths. Yeast or Suffolk Dumplings——Make a very light dough wate yeast, as for bread, but with milk instead of water, and Guar. XXII. PROVINCIAL PUDDINGS. 455 put salt. Let it rise an hour vefore the fire. 20 minutes be- fore you are to serve, have ready a large stewpan of boiling water; make the dough into balls the size of a middling apple, throw them in, and boil 20 minutes. If you doubt when done enough, stick a clean fork into one, and if it come out clear it is done. The way to eat them is, to tear them apart on the top with 2 forks, for they become heavy by their own steam. Eat immediately with meat, or sugar and butter, or salt; or with melted butter,sweetened, and adda tablespoonful of lemon-juice. Norfolk Dumplings—With a pint of milk, 2 well-beaten egos, and a little salt, mix as much flour as will make a thick batter. Drop a spoonful at a time into a stewpan of boiling water ; a few minutes willdo them. Take them up in a sieve to drain, and serve quickly with cold butter; the water must not cease boiling while they are doing. Dumplings quickly made.—Beat 4 eggs and strain them ; mix 4 oz. of flour very smoothly with a pint of milk; add to it the eggs, strain it again, and flavour the batter with sugar and nutmeg; butter some teacups, fill them three parts full, and put them into an oven: they will take + of an hour, and, if well mixed, will be equal to custard. Or :—These ingredients will make an excellent batter pudding, if boiled for 3 an hour in a-cloth. Another mode.—Shred suet, and mix with grated bread, a few currants, the yolks of 4 eggs and the whites of 2, some grated lemon-peel and ginger: make this into little balls about the size and shape of an egg, with a little flour. Have ready a skillet of boiling water, and throw them in. 20 minutes will boil them; but they will rise to the top when done. Serve with pudding-sauce.* Currant Dumplings——Take % lb. each of flour, bread- crumbs, suet (chopped fine), and currants; mix all together with a pinch of salt, a tablespoonful of moist sugar, a little grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, with 4 eggs, and sufficient milk to make it a tolerably stiff batter; wet a cloth and tie the mixture in dumplings about the size of a teacup ; boil for an hour, and serve with melted butter sweetened with moist sugar. * If the currants, lemon-peel, and ginger be omitted, the above is the mode of making suet dumplings'to be put into soup. @.- 456 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuapr. XXIV, CHARTER XXTYV. CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, &c. —» 9 =—— CUSTARDS. 656.—CusTArpD is always eaten’ cold, and either poured over fruit tarts, or served up separately in custard-cups, in each of — which a macaroon steeped in wine, and laid at the bottom, will be found a good addition. ; The flavouring may likewise be altered, according to taste, by using a different kind of essence, the name of which it then acquires ; ; as of lemon, orange, maraschino, vanilla, &e. It is almost needless to say that cream or a portion of it will make it richer than mere milk. It should be recollected that in custard, when made as cream, and eaten as usually called “raw,” the whites of the eggs are never all used; but they may be devoted to many — other purposes. The French mode of making it is, to measure the number of cups which are to be filled, and use nearly that quantity of milk or cream, simmering it upon the fire until beginning to boil, then adding about 4 oz. of powdered sugar to each cup, with lemon-peel, bay-leaves, or almond-powder; then take the yolk of an egg to each small cup, beat them up with the milk, fill the cups, place in a bain-marie or vase of boiling water until the custard become firm. Custard Cream.—Boil % pint of new milk with a piece of lemon-peel, 2 peach-leaves, a stick of cinnamon, and 8 lumps of white sugar. Should cream be employed instead of milk, there will be no occasion to strain it. Beat the yolks, say of 4 eggs; strain the milk through coarse muslin, or a hair sieve; then mix the eggs and milk very gradually together, and simmer it gently on the fire, stirring it until it thickens, — but removing it the moment it begins to boil, or it will curdle. — The addition of a glass of brandy beaten up with it materially — improves its flavour. Or :—Boil a quart of milk with 6 laurel-leaves and. 2 oz. of loaf-sugar: have ready the yolks of 7 eggs and the whites Cuap. XXIV. CUSTARDS. 457 of 3, well beaten; pour them into a jug, and pour on them the boiling milk, having taken out the leaves; put the jug into a pan of boiling water, and keep stirring till of sufficient thickness, which will be in a few minutes. $ A cheap and excellent sort is made by boiling 3 pints of new milk with a bit of lemon-peel, a bit of cinnamon, 2 or 8 bay-leaves, and sweetening it. Meanwhile, rub down smooth a large spoonful of rice-flour into a cup of cold milk, and mix with it 4 yolks of eggs well beaten. ‘Take a basin of the boiling milk, mix it with the cold, and pour that to the boil- ing, stirring it one way till it begins to thicken, and is just going to boil up; then pour it into a pan, stir it some time, add a large spoonful of peach-water, 2 teaspoonfuls of brandy, or a little ratafia.* Rice Custards.—Sweeten a pint of milk with loaf-sugar, boil it with a stick of cinnamon, stir in sifted ground rice till quite thick. Take it off the fire; add the whites of 3 eggs well beaten; stir it again over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes, then put it into cups that have lain in cold water; do not wipe them. When cold, turn them out, and put them into the dish in which they are to be served; pour round them a custard made of the yolks of the eggs and little more than % pint of milk. Put on the top a little red currant jelly or raspberry jam. A pretty supper dish. Custard Cream of Chocolate is made by grating any quantity of spiced chocolate, moistened by degrees with warm , milk, and put into a stewpan, with yolks of eggs, to thicken. Or :—Scrape ¢ lb. of the best chocolate; pour on it a tea- cupful of boiling water, and let it stand by the fire till it has dissolved. Beat 8 eggs very light, omitting the whites of 2, Stir them by degrees into a quart of cream or rich milk, alternately with the melted chocolate and 3 tablespoonfuls of powdered white sugar, Put the mixture into cups and bake it 10 minutes. Send them to table cold, with whipped white of egg heaped on the top of each custard. Coffee Custard.—Boil a pint of milk, and when boiling pour it upon 2 tablespoonfuls of whole coffee, that you have just warmed before the fire. Let it stand for an hour, then * Marbles, boiled in custard, or anything likely to burn, will, if shaken in the saucepan, prevent it from catching. x 458 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXIV. sweeten it, add 4 yolks of eggs, thicken over the fire, and when thick enough strain and fill the glasses. Almond Custard.—Boil in a pint of milk, or cream, 2 or 3 bitter almonds, a stick of cinnamon, and a piece of lemon- peel pared thin, with 8 or 10 lumps of sugar; let it simmer to extract the flavour, then strain it and stir it till cold. Beat the yolks of 6 eggs, mix it with the milk, and stir the whole over a slow fire until of a proper thickness, adding 1 oz. of sweet almonds, beaten fine in rose-water. Or :—Blanch and beat 4 oz. of almonds with a spoonful of water ; beat a pint of cream with 2 spoonfuls of rose-water, and put them to the yolks of 4 eggs, with as much sugar as will make it pretty sweet; then add the almonds: stir “it all over a slow fire till it is of a proper thickness, but do not boil. Pour it into cups or glasses. Or :—Blanch 2 oz. of sweet and 2 oz. of bitter almonds; beat them very fine in a mortar, using 2 spoonfuls of orange- flower water or a little milk in the pounding, to prevent their oiling, Whisk up 4 eggs well (8 or 10 yolks may be used instead) with 6 or 8 oz. of powdered loaf-sugar, to which add a pint of milk, or part milk and cream, and the pounded almonds: put the whole into a saucepan on the fire, and stir it constantly from the bottom with a whisk until it becomes thick ; but remember it must not boil, or it will curdle and be spoiled. Take it from the fire, keep stirring it for a few minutes, pour it into a basin, and stir it occasionally with a .Spoon to prevent a skin forming on the top; then pour it into cups, and grate nutmeg over the tops. For rich Custard.—Boil a pint of milk with lemon-peel. and cinnamon; mix a pint of cream and the yolks of 8 eggs well beaten; when the milk tastes of the seasoning, strain it and sweeten it enough for the whole; pour it into the cream, stirring it well; then give the custard a simmer till of a proper thickness. Do not let it boil; stir the whole time one way. Or :—Boil a pint of cream “with some mace, cinnamon, and a little lemon-peel: strain it, and when cold add to it the yolks of 4 and whites of 2 eggs, a little orange-flower water, and sugar to your taste. A little nutmeg and 2 spoonfuls of sweet wine may be added, if approved. Mix well, and bake in cups. A still richer sort is made by using cream without any por- CHAP, XXIV. . CUSTARDS. 459 tion of milk, or other flavouring than a glass or two of any of the highly flavoured liqueurs—either curacao, noyeau, or maraschino, beaten up with the yolks only of strictly fresh eggs, from which the “tread” has been picked out. If the liqueurs cannot be gO then simmer lemon or Seville orange peel, cinnamon, with a little nutmeg, brandy, or ratafia, if it can be had. These custards are very delicious, but may be improved by the addition of a few drops of noyeau. Orange Custard.—Boil very tender the rind of 4 a Seville orange; beat it inamortar to a paste; put to it a spoonful of the best brandy, the juice of a Seville orange, 4 oz. of lump- sugar, and the yolks of 4 eggs. Beat all together 10 minutes, and pour in by degrees a pint of boiling cream. Keep beat- ing until the mixture is cold; then put into custard-cups, and set them in a soup-dish of boiling water; let them stand until thick, then put preserved orange-peel, in slices, upon the custard. Serve either hot or cold. Or :—Take the juice of 12 oranges, strain it and sweeten it well with pounded loaf-sugar, stir it over a slow fire till the sugar is dissolved, taking off the scum as it rises: when nearly cold add the yolks of 12 eggs well beaten, and a pint of cream ; stir it again over the fire till it thickens. Serve it in a glass dish or in custard-cups.- Lemon Custard may be made in the same manner, or as follows :—Strain 8 wineglassfuls of lemon-juice through a sieve; beat 9 eggs, yolks and whites, strain them also, and add them to the lemon-juice, with } lb. of powdered loaf-sugar, a glass of white wine, and 4 a wineglass of water, with a little grated lemon-peel. Mix all together, and put the ingredients into a saucepan on the fire, stirring it until it becomes thick and of a proper consistence. Or :—Boil the rind of 2 lemons grated and the juice of 1 in a pint of water; add the yolks of 14 eggs beaten to a cream and sweetened ; stir it one way till it thickens. When taken off the fire add 2 spoonfuls of brandy. 460 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Onar. XXIV. CREAMS. In the common acceptation of the word, cream only means the skimmings of raw milk, or, when warmed, is called ~ ‘‘clouted ;” but the term is here applied to dishes in which cream is the chief ingredient, and which are usually called by the name of the flavouring materials. CHAMPAGNE CREAM 657.—Is made by beating up the yolks of 6 eggs with as much powdered sugar as will make it quite stiff—so much so as nearly to make the spoon stand in it. Then pour on it very gradually—stirring it all the time—a bottle of sparkling champagne: grate on it a little nutmeg, and serve it to the ladies, who seldom refuse a second glass. A bottle of good cider or perry will be a tolerable substitute. Leché Créma.—Beat up 3 eggs, leaving out 2 of the whites, and add to them gradually 1% pint of milk; then mix very carefully 4 tablespoonfuls of fine wheat-flour and 2 oz. of finely powdered loaf-sugar, with grated lemon-peel to give a flavour. Boil these ingredients over a slow fire, stirring con- stantly to prevent burning, until the flour is quite dissolved. Prepare a shallow dish with some ratafia cakes at the bottom, and when the “créma’’ is sufficiently boiled, pour it through a sieve upon the cakes.* A VERY FINE ITALIAN CREAM. 658.—Whip together for nearly an hour a quart of very thick scalded cream, a quart of raw cream, the grated rind of 4 lemons and the strained juice, with 10 oz. of white powdered sugar; then add 3 pint of sweet wine, and continue to whisk it until it becomes quite solid. Lay a piece of muslin in a sieve, and lade the cream upon it with a spoon. In 20 hours , turn it carefully out, but mind that it does not break. Garnish it with fruit-jelly or with flowers. Another.—Whip up ~ pint of very rich cream to a strong froth, with some finely scraped lemon-peel, a squeeze of the juice, 4 a glass of sweet wine, and sugar to make it pleasant, 2 Some finely powdered cinnamon should be dusted pretty thickly over it. This delicious dish is always served up cold. The receipt was obtained from the nuns of Santa Clara convent at Palmas, in the island of Grand Canary. Cue XETY. CREAMS. | 461 but not too sweet; lay it on a sieve or in a form, and next day put it on a dish, and ornament it with very light puff- te biscuits, made in tin shapes the length of a finger, and about 2 thick, over which sugar may be strewed, or a little glazed with isinglass. Or you may use macaroons to line the edges of the dish. CREME A LA VANILLE. 659.—Pound thoroughly with loaf-sugar } stick of vanilla, sift it, taking care that the vanilla is passed through the sieve: whip a pint of cream ; add the vanilla, sugar, and ¢ oz. of dissolved isinglass ; pour into a mould. Or :—Boil 4 a stick of vanilla in ¢ pint of new milk until it has a very high flavour; have ready dissolved in water 1 oz. of isinglass, which mix with the milk, and 12 pint of fine cream; sweeten with fine sugar, and whip until quite thick ; then pour into the mould and set it in a cool place. Or :—Boil 1 oz. of isinglass in a pint of milk for 10 minutes, taking care it does not stick to the bottom of the stewpan. Put into it 4 a stick of vanilla; cover it down, and let it stand till nearly cold. Beat up the yolks of 5 eggs, mix into them 6 oz. of pounded sugar, put these into a stewpan; take the vanilla out of the milk, which add to the eggs, mix them well, and stir the custard over the fire till it thickens, but do not let it boil. Strain it into a bowl; keep stirring it, and when on the point of setting add ~ pint of cream well whipped; mix it well, and pour it into a mould; set it upon ice till wanted, when dip it fora moment into warm water, wipe it dry, and turn over upon a dish. This is a very fine cream for a Charlotte Russe; but there should be a little more isinglass added, and a glass of brandy. CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 660.—Line the bottom of a plain round mould with Savoy biscuits, placing them close together in a star or some device ; line the sides, placing the biscuits edgeways, to make them form a compact wall; put the mould upon ice; have ready a Creme au Marasquin, adding a glass of brandy. Fill the mould as it stands on the ice, and leave it till the time of serving, when turn it over upon the dish and take off the mould. Creme au Marasquin.—Prepare a cream as the Creme a la 462 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap, XXIV. Vanille, adding ¢ 0z. more isinglass, and substituting maras- chino for vanilla. Or :—Whip a pint of cream until it thickens, add powdered sugar, a glass of maraschino, and 2 oz. of isinglass dissolved in water. ‘he isinglass must be liquid, but cold. BOHEMIAN CREAM. 661.—Rub a pint of fresh-gathered strawberries through a sieve. Add 6 oz. of pounded sugar and the juice of a lemon; dissolve 1$ oz. of isinglass in 3 pint of water; mix all well together, and set the vessel upon ice, still stirring it until it begins to set. Whip nearly a pint of cream to a light froth, and stir it into the strawberries; fill the mould, and let it remain upon the ice until wanted to serve, when plunge it into warm water for an instant, wipe it dry, and turn out the cream on the dish. CREME AU CARAMEL. 662.—Melt ¢ lb. of pounded sugar over a slow fire till it begins to tint, stirring it all the time; boil an oz. of isinglass in a pint of milk, pour it upon the caramel, stirring it until it is quite dissolved. Beat up the yolks of 5 eggs, put them into a stewpan, pour the caramel and isinglass upon them; stir over the fire till it thickens; pass through a tammy; pour it into a mould, and set it on ice till wanted. BURNT CREAM. 663.—Boil a pint of cream with a stick of cinnamon and some lemon-peel; take it off the fire, and pour it very slowly into the yolks of 4 eggs, stirring till half cold; sweeten and take out the spice, &e.; pour it into the dish; when cold strew white pounded sugar over, and brown it with a salamander. Or :—Make a rich custard without sugar, boiling lemon- peel in it. When cold, sift a good deal of sugar over the whole, and brown the top with a salamander. Snow Cream.—Put to a quart of cream the whites of 3 eggs well beaten, 4 spoonfuls of sweet wine, sugar to your taste, and a bit of lemon-peel: whip it to a froth, remove the peel, and serve it in a dish. ALMOND CREAM. 664.—Pound 4 oz. of sweet almonds and a few bitter (both having been blanched) with a teaspoonful of water to prevent oiling. Put the paste to a quart of cream, and add the juice Cuar, XXIV. * CREAMS. 463 of 3 lemons sweetened : beat it up with a whisk to a froth, which take off on the shallow part of a sieve; fill glasses with some of the liquor and the froth. Or :—Blanch and pound 1% oz. of sweet almonds with 1 oz. each of candied citron and lemon peel; rub 2 tablespoonfuls of flour into a quart of new milk; add the yolks of 5 eggs well beaten; sweeten to taste with pounded loaf-sugar. Add to these the almonds and peel; mix them well, then rub the whole through a sieve 2 or 3 times, and let it almost boil; pour it into the dish in which it is to be served; glaze it with whites of eggs and sugar, put it into the oven to dry the glazing. It may be eaten either hot or cold. VELVET CREAM. 665.—Dissolve 1 oz. of isinglass in a breakfast-cupful of wine; add the juice of a large lemon, rub some lumps of sugar over the Jemon-peel, and thus sweeten it to the taste. Then add a pint of cream, strain the isinglass and wine, stir the whole well together, and put it into the moulds. It re- _ quires no boiling after the cream is added, the isinglass, wine, and sugar having been previously boiled together. Be care- ful not to mix the wine and cream together until quite cold. Half the above materials ought to fill a mould. Chocolate Cream.—Scrape into 1 quart of thick cream 1 oz. of the best chocolate and ¢ lb. of sugar; boil and mill it; when quite smooth take it off, and leave it to be cold; then add the whites of 9 eggs. Whisk, and take up the froth on sieves, and serve the froth in glasses, to rise above the cream. Spinach Cream.—Beat the yolks of 8 eggs with a wooden spoon or a whisk ; sweeten them a good deal, and put to them a stick of cinnamon, a pint of rich cream, 2 pint of new milk ; stir it well; then add ¢ pint of spinach-juice; set it over a gentle stove, and stir it one way constantly till it is as thick as a hasty-pudding. Put into a custard-dish some Naples biscuits, or preserved orange, in long slices, and pour the mix- ture over them. It is to be eaten cold, and is a dish either for supper or for a second course. Pistachio Cream.— Blanch 4 oz. of pistachio-nuts ; beat them fine with a little rose-water, and add the paste to a pint of cream ; sweeten, let it just boil, and put it into glasses. Imperial Cream.—Boil a quart of cream with the thin rind 464 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cunap, XXIV. of alemon, then stir till nearly cold; have ready, in a dish or bow] that you are to serve in, the juice of 3 lemons, strained, with as much sugar as will sweeten the cream; pour the cream into the dish from a large teapot, holding it high, and moving it about to mix with the juice. It should stand at least 6 hours before it is served, and will be still better if kept a day. Lhenish Cream.—Dissolve 1 oz. of isinglass in 1 pint of hot water, let it stand until cold; take the yolks of 5 eggs, the peels of 2 and the juice of 3 lemons, } pint of white wine, and 4 lb. of lump-sugar ; stir them all together; let them boil gently till thick enough to put into moulds. Flemish Cream.—Dissolve 4 oz. of isinglass in 1 pint of water, strain it to ¢ pint of cream, add 1 glass of brandy; colour it with currant-jelly ; whisk it up into a light froth, and put it into a mould. FRUIT CREAMS. 666.—Take $ oz. of isinglass, dissolved in a little water, then put 1 pint of good cream, sweetened to the taste; boil it; when nearly cold, lay some apricot or raspberry jam on the bottom of a glass dish, and pour it over. ‘This is most excellent. Codling Cream.—Pare and core a score of codlings; beat them in a mortar with a pint of cream; strain it into a dish, and put sugar, bread-crumbs, and a glass of wine toit. Stir it well. Gooseberry Cream.—Boil 2 lbs. of green gooseberries in 1} pint of water; when thoroughly mashed strain them; to every lb. of juice add 1 lb. of loaf-sugar, let them boil for 20 minutes. Dissolve 1 oz. of isinglass in 3 pint of cream, taking care it does not boil; stir it till nearly cold; add it to the gooseberry syrup, which should be nearly cold; add-also the juice of a lemon ; put it into a mould and set it upon ice. It should be made the day before wanted. Excellent Orange Cream.—Boil the rind of a Seville orange very tender; beat it fine in a mortar; put to it a spoonful of the best brandy, the juice of a Seville orange, 4 oz. of loaf- sugar, and the yolks of 4 eggs; beat all together for 10 minutes ; then, by gentle degrees, pour in a pint of boiling cream; beat till cold; put into custard-cups set into a deep dish of boiling water, and let them stand till cold again. ’ ee Cuap. XXIV. CREAMS. 465 Put at the top small strips of orange-paring cut thin, or pre- served chips. Or :—Take 5 Seville oranges, cut a piece off the top, grate the rind gently, then boil them in several waters till the bitter is quite out, but they must not be so soft as to break; take out the seeds and pulp. Boil up a thick syrup, and put the oranges into it; let them boil till they look preserved ; put them into a dish and pour the syrup over them. ‘Then take the yolks of 6 eggs well beaten, some Naples biscuits or grated bread, a little lemon-peel, a gill of cream, and a glass of sweet wine, with + lb. of butter; sweeten to taste; thicken them over the fire; fill the oranges, put the bit on the top, and set them in the oven. ‘To be eaten hot. Lemon Cream.—Take a pint of cream, add the zest of a lemon rubbed on sugar; whip it well; add sugar and lemon- juice to palate. Have % oz. of isinglass dissolved and cool; when the cream is thick, which it will be when the lemon- juice is added, pour in the isinglass, and immediately mould it. A smaller quantity of isinglass may suffice, but that depends on the thickness of the cream: Other flavours may be used, as orange, almond, maraschino. Or :—Take a pint of thick cream, and put to it the yolks of 2 eggs well beaten, 4 0z. of fine sugar, and the thin rind of a lemon; boil it up, then stir it till almost cold; put the juice of a lemon in a dish or bowl, and pour the cream upon it, stirring it till quite cold. Honeycomb Cream.—Take the juice of 1 fine lemon and of 2 Seville oranges; make it very sweet; put it into a glass dish and set it upon the ground; boil a pint of cream and put it into a teapot made very hot. Pour the cream upon the juice, holding the pot as high as possible: let it remain quite still till cold. A little orange or rose water might be added to the juice. Raspberry Cream.—Boil 1 oz. of isinglass in 14 pint of new milk; strain it through a hair sieve into a basin; boil 14 pint of cream; when cool, put about 4 pint of raspberry-juice, or syrup, to the cream; then add the milk; stir it till well incorporated ; sweeten, and add a glass of brandy; whisk it about till three parts cold; then put it into a mould till quite cold. In summer use the fresh juice. Mash the fruit gently, and let it drain; then sprinkle a little sugar over, and that will xd 466 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXIV, produce more juice. If the milk is added to the juice before the cream, it will curdle. Or :—Boil 2 oz. of isinglass in a. little water; strain, and put it into } pint of raspberry-juice sweetened ; whip 3 pint of thick cream; adda little lemon or currant-juice: when thick’ add the raspberry-juice and isinglass, and mould immediately. BRANDY CREAM, 667.—Boil in a little milk 2 dozen of almonds blanched, and the same number of bitter almands pounded. When cold, add the yolks of 5 eggs beaten well in a little cream; sweeten, and put to it 2 glasses of the best brandy; and when well mixed pour in a quart of thin cream: set it over the fire, but do not let it boil; stir one way till it thickens, then pour it into cups or low glasses. When cold it will be ready. A ratafia drop may be put in each. Ifyou wish it to keep, scald the cream previously. RATAFIA CREAM. 668.—Boil 3 or 4 laurel, peach, or nectarine leaves in a pint of cream ; strain it, and when cold add the yolks of 3 eges beaten and strained, sugar, and a large spoonful of brandy stirred quickly into it. Scald till thick, stirring it all the time. Or :—Mix half + pint of ratafia, the same quantity of mountain wine, the juice of 2 or 3 lemons, a pint of rich cream, and as much sugar as will make it pleasantly flavoured. Beat it with a whisk, and put it into glasses. ‘This cream will keep 8 or 10 days. Lemon Sponge.—To a pint of water put 1 oz. of isinglass, the rind of a lemon, and 4 lb. of lump-sugar; let it simmer for $ an hour, and then strain it through a lawn sieve: when nearly cold, add the juice of 3 lemons; whisk it until it is white and thick. In the summer it will require rather more isinglass. Pour into an earthenware jelly-mould. ORANGE BUTTER. 669.—Boil hard 6 eggs, beat them in a mortar with 2 oz. of fine sugar, 3 oz. of butter, and 2 oz. of blanched almonds beaten to a paste. Moisten with orange-flower water, and when all is mixed rub it through a colander on a dish, and serve sweet biscuits between. Cuar. XXIV. CREAMS, &c. _ 467 DUTCH BUTTER. 670.—Take 2 oz. of isinglass; dissolve it in a pint of water with the peel of a lemon; add a pint of white wine and the juice of 3 lemons, the yolks of 8 eggs well beaten; sweeten it to taste; make it quite hot, but do not let it boil: strain it and put it into moulds. FAIRY BUTTER. 671.—Wash ¢ lb. of fresh butter in orange-flower water, and beat it with the pounded yolks of 5 or 6 hard-boiled eggs. Blanch and pound to a paste with a little orange-flower water 2 oz. of sweet almonds; add the grated peel of 4 a lemon, sweeten with pounded loaf-sugar; mix all together with a wooden spoon; work it through an earthenware colander ; soak some Naples biscuit in white wine, and put the fairy butter over them in heaps as high as it can be raised. Or :—To an iron hook in the wall fasten two corners of a canvas strainer very firmly ; make a knot with the other two corners, so that you may pass a stick through them. Put the butter into this and twist it tightly; put the dish under, into which the butter will fall in very fine threads. It makes a pretty side dish. Somersetshire Frumenty.—Bruise 2 quarts of wheat; put it with 2 quarts of water into a stone jar, and bake it till quite soft. ‘Take 2 quarts of new milk; break the wheat into it till as thick as custard, and 4 oz. of currants washed and dried ; stir it, and let it boil till the currants are done. Beat the yolks of 3 eggs, a little nutmeg, and 2 or 3 spoonfuls of milk ; add this to the wheat ; stir them together over the fire { sweeten and serve in a deep dish. Some persons prefer it cold. APPLE OR GOOSEBERRY SOUFFLE. 672.—Scald and sweeten the fruit, beat it through a sieve, and put it into a tart-dish. When cold pour a rich custard over it, about 2 inches deep; whip the whites of the eggs, of which the custard was made, to a snow, and lay it in small rough pieces on the custard; sift fine sugar over, and put it into a slack oven for a short time. It will make an exceedingly pretty supper dish. CROQUANTES OF ALMONDS. 673.—Blanch, and dry at the mouth of a cool oven, J Ib. of 468 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXIV, sweet almonds; when cold, pound them in a mortar with 1 Ib, of loaf-sugar ; rub the whole through a wire sieve; rub in ¢ lb, of butter, the ‘grated rind of 3 a lemon, and the yolks of 3 eggs — well beaten; make them all up into a paste; roll it out and cut it into shapes, and bake them in a quick oven; when done, dip them into sugar boiled to a syrup, and let them be kept dry. They make a very nice garnish for sweet dishes of — almost every kind. ICE CREAMS. 674.—To 1 lb. of preserved fruit of any kind add a quart of cream, the juice of 2 lemons to heighten the flavour, and sugar to your taste. Rub the whole through a fine hair sieve ; and. to raspberry, or any other red fruit, add a little cochineal colouring, to give a better tint. TO PREPARE ICE FOR ICING. 675.—Get a few pounds of ice; a pailful is necessary to freeze a quart of cream; break it almost to powder, throw 3 or 4 large handfuls of rock-salt among it. You must pre-~ pare it in a part of the house where as little of the warm air comes as you can possibly contrive. The ice and salt being in a bucket, put your cream into an icepot, and cover it; immerse it in the ice till quite cold, then twist the pot rapidly round. In a few minutes put a spoon in and stir it well, removing the parts that ice round the edges to the centre. If the ice cream or water be in a form, shut the bottom close, and move the whole in the ice, as you cannot use a spoon to that without danger of waste. There should be holes in the bucket, to let off the water as the ice thaws. Freezing powders for generating ice are now also much in use, and can be procured of the patentees, King and Keith, Princes-street, Leicester-square.* Ratafia Cream Ice.—Blanch i oz. of bitter almonds, and beat them with a teaspoonful of water in a marble mortar; then rub with the paste 2 oz. of lump-sugar, and simmer 10 minutes with a teacupful of cream, which add te a quart more of cream, and, having strained, ice it. Brown Bread Ice.—Grate as fine as possible stale brown 2 When any fluid tends towards cold, moving it quickly accelerates the cold; and likewise, when any fluid is tending to heat, stirring it will facilitate its boiling, ee Cuap. XXIV. CREAMS, &c. 469 bread, soak a small proportion in cream 2 or 3 hours, sweeten, and ice it; but keep stirring, that the bread may not sink. Vanilla Cream, if iced, is made with a decoction or essence of that spice mixed with the cream. Iced Custard is also very good. Almond Cream Ice.—Take 6 oz. of bitter almonds (sweet ones will not do), blanch them, and pound them in a mortar, adding by degrees a little rose-water. Boil them gently in a pint of cream till you find that it is highly flavoured with them. Then pour the cream into a bowl, stir in 4 lb. of pow- dered loaf-sugar, cover it, and set it away to cool gradually. When it is cold, strain it, and then stir it quickly into 3 pints of cream. Put it into the freezer, and proceed as directed.. Freeze it twice. It will be found very fine. Send round wafers and sponge-cake with ice cream: after- wards liqueurs. WATER ICES 676.—Are made with the juice of lemon, currant, or rasp- berry, or any other sort of fruit, sweetened and mixed with water. Rub some fine sugar on lemon or orange, to give the colour and flavour, then squeeze the juice of either on its respective peel; add water and sugar to make a fine sherbet, and strain it before it be put into the icepot. If orange, the greater proportion should be of the China juice, and only a little of Seville, and a small bit of the peel grated by the sugar. To make Ice Punch, as used in Italy— Mix a rich sherbet, and grate a piece of sugar on a lemon or citron for flavour ; then beat the whites of 5 or 6 eggs to a froth, and by degrees stir it into the sherbet: add rum, ice it, and serve in glasses. TRIFLE.—E. R. 677.—Place at the bottom of the trifle-dish a layer of maca- roons. and ratafia-cakes, and pour over them as much sweet wine as they will absorb. Squeeze the juice of a lemon, and add it to a pint of cream not too thick ; sweeten the cream with sugar rubbed upon the rind; add a little brandy. Whisk the mixture, and as the froth rises lay it on a sieve to drain; and if it is too thick add to it a little water. When enough has been drained for the purpose, make a custard with the remain- ing eream and that which has drained from the froth; put it on a very slow fire with 2 laurel-leaves, and when nearly boiling 470 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cxapr. XXIY. take it off, and add the yolks of 4 eggs and the whites of 2— the number necessary for a pint of custard. Put it again on the fire, stirring slowly one way till it thickens, but taking care — not to allow it to come toa boil. Cover the macaroons with raspberry or other jam, then pour on the custard; and when the custard is quite cold put on the froth, sprinkling harlequin comfits on the top, and garnishing with different-coloured sweetmeats. In some of the good old-fashioned receipts for trifle, a layer of calf’s-foot jelly is added to the others. Modern trifles are often trifles indeed, merely consisting of a few cakes anda little froth. TIPSY CAKE. ; 678.—Take a savoy cake; stick almonds, cut in fillets, regularly in it ; pour equal quantities of wine and brandy over, as much as it will imbibe; smother it with a rich thick cus- tard; lay preserves at the bottom of the dish. FLOATING ISLAND. 679.—Mix 8 4-pints of thin cream with ¢ pint of raisin wine, a little lemon-juice, orange-flower water, and sugar ; put into a dish for the middle of the table, and put on the cream a froth, which may be made of raspberry or currant jelly. nother way.—Scald a codling before it be ripe, or any sharp apple; pulp it through a sieve. Beat the whites of 2 egos with sugar and a spoonful of orange-flower water; mix in by degrees the pulp, and beat together until you have a large quantity of froth; serve it on raspberry cream or put it on a custard. BLANCMANGE.—E. R. 680.—Boil 14 0z. of isinglass, 8 oz. of sweet and 6 bitter almonds, well pounded in a quart of milk; let it boil until the isinglass is dissolved; then sweeten it, strain it through a napkin, stir it until nearly cold, and put it into the mould. Or :—To a pint of new milk and as much cream add 13 oz. of the best isinglass, a large handful of sweet and bitter almonds pounded in a mortar and moistened with water, 3 oz. of fine sugar, and 2 bay or peach leaves. Boil the whole until the isinglass is dissolved, then strain it into a basin, let it stand until it is cold, turn it out and take off the sediment, warm it up again by putting the basin into hot water; flavour it with # Cuap. XXIV. _ CREAMS, &c. 471 a little orange-flower water, stir it until it is nearly cold, and then put it into the mould. Observe to wash the isinglass in cold water before it is put to the milk, and soak the moulds in cold water some hours before they are used. American Blancmange.—Mix 2 02. of arrowroot in } pint of cold water ; let it settle for ¢ of an hour; pour off the water and add a tablespoonful of orange or rose water; sweeten 1 | quart of new milk; boil it with a bit of cinnamon, half the peel of a lemon, and 4 laurel or bay leaves; pour the boiling milk upon the arrowroot, stirring it all the time : put it into a mould and turn it out the following day. WHOLE RICH IN A SHAPE. 681.—Wash a lar ge teacupful of rice in several waters; put it into a stewpan with cold water to cover it; when it boils add 2 cupfuls of rich milk or thin cream, with a piece of cinnamon, a little fresh lemon-peel, and a laurel- leaf; boil it till the rice is soft; sweeten it ; put it into a mould Rice Mould - and press it down tight : when eer tomo cold turn it out and serve with sweetmeat or jelly round it. If put into a cylindrical mould, the centre should be filled with fruit or sweetmeat. GOOSEBERRY-FOOL. 682.—Put the fruit into a stone jar, with some sugar; set the jar on a stove, or in a saucepan of water over the fire; if the former, a large spoonful of water should be added to the fruit. When it is done enough to pulp, press it through a colander; have ready a teacupful of new milk and the same quantity of raw cream boiled together, and left to be cold; then sweeten pretty well with fine sugar, and mix the pulp by degrees with it. Or :—Mix equal proportions of gooseberry pulp and custard. for Orange-fool.—Mix the juice of 3 Seville oranges, 3 eggs well beaten, a pint of cream, a little nutmeg and cinna- mon, and sweeten to your taste. Set the whole over a siow fire, and stir it till it becomes as thick as good melted butter, ee a 472... MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY, Cuap. XXIV, but it must not be boiled; then pour it into a dish for eating cold. For Apple-fool.—Stew apples as directed for gooseberries, and then peel and pulp them. Prepare the milk, &., and mix as before. NORMANDY PIPPINS. 683.—These form a very convenient second-course dish when there is custard at table, it being particularly suited to the flavour. They are to be obtained at all the grocers’, and should be soaked in cold water for about 12 hours. To every Ib. of apples put a quart of water and 4 lb. of moist sugar, with about a dozen cloves and a little fresh lemon-peel ; let them simmer till quite tender ; when cold lay them in a dish, lay thin strips of lemon-peel over the tops, and pour over them as much of the syrup as the dish will hold. SYLLABUBS.—E. R. 684.—Solid Syllabub.—Grate off the peel of a lemon with lump-sugar, and dissolve the sugar in ¢ pint of wine: add the juice of 4 a lemon and + pint of cream; whisk the whole together at of a proper thickness, and. then put it into glasses. London Syllabub.—Put 14 pint of port or white wine into a bowl, nutmeg grated, and a good deal of sugar, then pour into it near 2 quarts of hot milk, frothed up. If the wine be not rather sharp, it will require more for this quantity of milk. Staffordshire Syllabub.—Put a pint of cider, and a glass of brandy, sugar, and nutmeg, into a bowl, and milk into it; or pour warm milk from a large teapot some height into it. A very fine Somersetshire and Devonshire Syllabub.—In a large china bowl put a pint of port, and a pint of sherry or other white wine; sugar to taste. Milk the bowl full. In 20 minutes’ time cover it pretty high with clouted cream; grate over it nutmeg, put pounded cinnamon and nonpareil comfits. Everlasting Syllabubs.—Mix a quart of thick raw cream, 1 lb. of refined sugar, 14 pint of fine raisin wine, in a deep pan; put to it the grated peel and the juice of 3 lemons. Beat or whisk it one way 4 an hour; keep taking off the top with a spoon. Put it in glasses, sprinkle a few harlequin ‘ ae we ee ee ae a ee Cuap. XXIV. _ CREAMS, &c. 473 sugarplums on the top. It will keep good, in a cool place, a fortnight. ; DEVONSHIRE JUNKET. -685.—Put warm milk into a bowl; turn it with rennet; then put some scalded cream, sugar, and cinnamon on the top, without breaking the curd. Or :—Put some new milk into a china or other basin, or else warm some cold milk to the same heat as new, add to it a little calf’s rennet, and, if approved, a little brandy or rum may also be added; stir it with a spoon so as to mix the whole perfectly. Place it near the fire or on a warm stove or hearth until turned, but it must not be kept too hot, or it will not turn properly. When turned, put sugar, grated nutmeg, or nutmeg and ground cinnamon, on the top, and scalded or clouted cream, without breaking the curd, and serve. ITALIAN CHEESE.—E. R. 686.—14 pint of cream, 2 lemons and the rind, a pint of sweet wine, a few pounded almonds, and sugar enough to sweeten it. Mill for about 10 minutes; put all into a deep sieve with a muslin under it to drain. Or :—The juice of 1 lemon and the grated rind of 2 toa quart of cream; add sugar, keep stirring it one way until it is quite thick. FLUMMER Y. 687.—Put 3 large handfuls of very small white oatmeal to steep a day and night in cold water; then pour it off clear, and add as much more water, and let it stand the same time. Strain it through a fine hair sieve, and boil it till it be as thick as hasty pudding, stirring it well all the time. When first strained, put to it 1 large spoonful of white sugar and 2 of orange-flower water.- Pour it into shallow dishes, and serve to eat with wine, cider, milk, or cream and sugar. It is very good, French Flummery.—Boil slowly 2 oz. of isinglass shavings in a quart of cream 15 minutes. Stir all the time, and sweeten it with loaf-sugar, not pounded, lest any dust should be in it; add a spoonful of rose-water and the same of orange-flower water. Strain it into a basin or form, and serve with baked pears round it. Rice Flummery.—Boil with a pint of new milk a bit of AT4 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXIV. lemon-peel and cinnamon; mix with a little cold milk as much rice-flour as will make the whole of a good consistency ; sweeten, and add a spoonful of peach-water or a bitter almond _ : beaten ; boil it, taking care it does not burn; pour it intoa shape or pint basin, taking out the spice. When cold, turn the flummery into a dish, and serve with cream, milk, or custard, round. An excellent Flummery.—Take 1 pair of calf’s feet, boil them in 3 quarts of water till reduced to 1 pint; when cold take off the fat very carefully; boil it with a laurel-leaf, add ¢ pint of cream with a tablespoonful of orange-flower water. Beat it up till it is as thick as cream; pour it into cups pre- viously laid in cold water, or into a mould. e J ELUIES. 688.—The chemical compounds so generally advertised for making jellies, custards, and blancmange, are worthless in comparison with the animal substance of meat, eggs, and milk, of which such delicacies ought to be formed; they are not cheaper nor so nutritive, neither do we know of what they are composed. 3 It is a complaint amongst even experienced housekeepers that they cannot feel a certainty of having jelly clear; but by strictly attending to the following method for making calf’s- foot jelly, they can scarcely fail to have it beautifully bright. Feet for all jellies are boiled so long by the people who sell them that they are less nutritious: they should be pro- cured from the butcher and only scalded to take off the hair. The liquor will require greater care in removing the fat; but the jelly will be far stronger. A little isinglass, 4 0z. to a quart of stock, may be used to secure the firmness, particularly in summer. In peeling lemons, care should be taken not to cut below the colour, as by so doing a great deal of the flavour of the essential oil is lost, and the white part gives a disagreeable flavour. The stock should be measured before it gets cold, as the exact quantity cannot be measured when it is set. Jelly is equally good made of cow-heels nicely cleaned ; and they bear a less price than those of calves, and make a stronger jelly. — Cuar. XXIV. JELLIES. 475 The following mode will greatly facilitate the clearing of jelly :—When the mixture has boiled 20 minutes, throw in a teacupful of cold water; let it boil 5 minutes longer; then take the saucepan off the fire, covered close, and let it stand 4 an hour; after which it will be so clear as to need only once running through the bag, and much waste will be saved. CALF’S-FOOT JELLY. 689.—Boil 4 quarts of water, with 3 calf’s-feet, or 2 cow- heels, that have been only scalded, till half wasted: take the jelly from the fat and sediment; mix with it the juice of a Seville orange and 12 lemons, the peels of 3 ditto, the whites and shells of 12 eggs, white sugar to taste, a pint of wine, % 0Z. of coriander-seeds, 2 bay-leaves, and a bit of cinnamon, all bruised, after having previously mixed them cold. The jelly should boil up; then let it stand for 10 minutes, and put it through a jelly-bag until it is clear. While running, take a little jelly, and mix with a teacupful of water in which a bit of beet-root has been boiled, and run it through the bag when all the rest is run out; this is to garnish the other jelly, being cooled on a plate: but this is matter of choice. This jelly has a very fine high colour and flavour. Another.—Boil a cow-heel in 2 quarts of water for 7 or 8 hours : take every particle of fat and sediment from the jelly ; when cold put to it a pint of raisin wine, the juice of 3 lemons and the rind of 2 pared very thin, about 6 oz. of sugar, the whites and shells of 3 eggs well beaten, and 4 oz. of isinglass. Boil it 20 minutes, then add a teacupful of cold water; let it boil 5 minutes longer, then cover it up close and let it stand off the fire 4 an hour; pour it through ajelly-bag until clear, put it into a mould, and set it on ice. 7 Orange Jelly —To a pint of calf’s-foot stock put a pint of strained China orange-juice mixed with that of 1 or 2 lemons ; add 6 oz. of sugar, the rinds of 3 oranges and 1 lemon pared very thin, the whites and shells of 3 eggs; mix these well together. When it boils, let it simmer ¢ hour; take it off the fire, cover up close, and let it stand 20 minutes, then pour it through a bag till clear. In all jellies it is to be under- stood the process of clearing should be the same as for calf’s- foot, already given. Lemon Jelly.—Take a quart of calf’s-foot stock, add 4 pint A476 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXIV. of lemon-juice, ? 1b. of loaf-sugar, the rind of 2 lemons pared very thin, the whites and shells of 5 eggs; boil and clarify as already stated. The colour should be bright. For variety, * any rich white liqueur might be added, taking away an equal quantity of lemon-juice. It should be borne in mind that lemon-peel cut thick does not impart nearly so much flavour as the same quantity cut very thin. Apple Jelly.—Pour a quart of prepared apple-juice on 1 Ib. of fresh apples pared and cored; simmer them until they are well broken; strain the juice, and let it stand until cold. Put 1% pint into a stewpan with a quart of calf’s-foot stock, 9 oz. of sugar broken small, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, with the whites and shells of 8 eggs. Let it boil for about 4 of an hour; strain it through a jelly-bag, and when cool put it into moulds. Good baking apples should be used, and the quantity of the sugar must vary according to the tartness of the fruit. Fruit in Jelly.—Prepare a calf’s-foot jelly ; before putting it into the mould pick, wash, and drain on a cloth some fine pine strawberries, some large white raspberries, and bunches of red and white currants. Lay at the bottom of the mould a large bunch of white currants surrounded with pine straw- berries; on these a layer of white raspberries and red cur- rants. Cover them entirely with jelly; when quite firm arrange another layer of fruit, and so on till the mould is filled. Just before wanted dip the mould into warm water for a moment, wipe it, and turn the jelly out. The fruits may be varied according to the season. Preserved fruits may be used, but the colour will not be so fine as fresh fruit. TO CLARIFY ISINGLASS. 690.—Take 2 oz. of isinglass, pour on it a pint of spring water which has been mixed with a teaspoonful of beaten white of egg anda tablespoonful of lemon-juice. Stir them thoroughly together, and let them heat slowly, taking care the isinglass does not stick to the bottom of the pan; simmer Cuap. XXIV. JELLIES. 477 a few minutes, clear off the scum till no more appears; strain it through muslin, and set it by for use: it will be trans- parent, and may be warmed and mixed with the clear juice of any kind of fruit already sweetened, or with syrup in jellies flavoured with liqueur. As a portion of the isinglass is taken up by the white of egg, ¢ to each oz. should be allowed for this. The finest sort of isinglass, which should be white and without any smell, does not require to be clarified, excepting for clear jellies; for all other purposes it is enough to dis- solve and skim it, and to pass it through a strainer. should be placed under it; and there should be a free ventilation of air, as the best fuel for it is charcoal. It is lighted in the same way as a charcoal stove, by putting upon the bars a piece of charcoal already ignited ; and may be put out by fixing the lid closely down. ‘The French call it un Fourneau Economique. ‘The original price is only Oo are ! a few shillings, Stove for Preservi SS OO ng. 480 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cwar. XXYV. TO CLARIFY AND BOIL SUGAR. 694.—The boiling of sugar more or less constitutes the chief art of the confectioner. Those who are not experienced in this, and only preserve in a plain way for family use, are not aware that in 2 or 3 minutes a syrup over the fire will pass from one gradation to another, called by the confectioners “ degrees of boiling,’ ’ of which there are 6, and those subdivided. Such minutiz cannot, however, be attended to by private parties ; and the observation is only made to guard against both under- boiling, which prevents preserves from keeping, and too quick and long boiling, which brings them to a candy. we The finest sugar should be used in confectionery, as it requires less clarifying, and consequently less is wasted; the coarser sorts lose much in that process. Break the sugar into large lumps, and put it into a preserving-pan. If for syrup, add a pint of cold water to each pound; if for candying, a couple of wineglassfuls to the pound will be sufficient. Beat the white of an egg, add it to the water, mix it well, and pour it over the sugar; 1 egg is enough for 12 lbs. of sugar if it is fine, or 2 if itis coarse. When the sugar is nearly melted, stir it well, and put it over a gentle fire; do not stir it after the scum begins to rise; let it boil 5 minutes, then take it off the fire, let it stand a minute or two, then take the scum care- fully off; put the pan again on the fire, and when the syrup begins to boil throw ina little cold water, which should be kept back for the purpose; boil till the scum rises, draw it off the fire, and skim it as before; repeat. this till quite clear; it is then fit for use. Itis by long boiling that the different degrees are obtained which the confectioner requires. When it is fit for candying, it may be drawn out into threads by taking a little between the thumb and finger; but for barley- sugar or caramel, the way to prove it is “by dropping a little into cold water ; ; if it snap between the teeth without sticking to them, it should then be instantly taken off the fire. If for barley-sugar, a few drops of essence of lemon should be added, then pour it upon a broad dish, and when the edges begin to harden roil it up into sticks. If for caramel, or spun sugar, oil a mould and draw out the sugar in threads over it, let it cool, then place it over the fruit or tart it is intended to cover. The various degrees in sugar-boiling, if required to a nicety, may best be ascertained by means of a very simple saccharo- 4 Cuap. XXV. PRESERVING. 481 meter, to be had at any mathematical instrument maker’s, con- sisting of a tin tube, into which, when nearly filled with the syrup, a small graduated rod, having a weight at the lower end to hold it in a perpendicular position, is inserted; and according to the degree it marks on the surface of the syrup, the stage is denominated as in the following table :— Petit lissé, at . . . 29 degrees. | Grand boulet. Grand lissé . ae 4 Petit cassé (crack), which makes a Peete. s 6s 16 6 SO". sy noise when dropped into water. Grand perlé . A Ps | alae Grand cassé, Petit plume orsouffié . 37 ,, Caramel blond. Grand plume .. .38 *3 Caramel noir. Petit boulet . FE 40 ,, The instrument does not mark beyond 40 .degrees, else it would give caramel noir at 48 degrees. OBSERVATIONS ON PRESERVING. 695.—Attention, with practice, will enable a person to make any of the following sorts of preserves, &c., and they are as much as is wanted in a private family. The higher articles of preserved fruits may be bought at less expense than they can be made. Preserves should be kept carefully from the air, and in a very dry place. Unless they have a very small proportion of sugar, a warm one does not hurt; but when not properly boiled (that is, long enough, but not quickly), heat makes them ferment, and damp causes them to grow mouldy. They should be looked at 2 or 3 times in the first 2 months, that they may be gently boiled again if not likely to keep. Paste the edge of the outer paper, as it keeps out the air better than a string, or rub the outer paper over with the white of eggs and cover the preserve whilst hot. This plan is adopted by most of the French confectioners. Put plain writing-paper over the fruit; brandy will give them a tendency to ferment. Dried sweetmeats, cakes, &c., should be kept in tin boxes, between layers of white paper, in a very dry but not hot room. When any sweetmeats are directed to be dried in the sun or in a stove, it will be best, in private families, where there is not a regular stove for the purpose, to put them in the sun on flag-stones, which reflect the heat, and place a garden glass over them to keep insects off; or, if put into an oven, take care not to let it be too warm, and watch that they do properly and slowly. Y A892 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar. XXV. All fruits for preserving should be gathered in dry weather ; but as this is not always practicable, much inconvenience may be obviated by boiling the fruit for jellies and jams long before the sugar is added. By so doing, the watery particles will evaporate, and the preserve will be better flavoured, by the sugar not being too long on the fire. The common sort of preserves are cheaper, if not better, when made in the house than when purchased. from the con- fectioner; with this observation, that, if there be children in the family, the plan will then probably be found anything but economical. Pans of copper or bell-metal are the proper utensils for pre- serving fruit: when used, they must be scoured bright with sand. Tinned pans turn and destroy the colour of the fruit that is put into them. ‘There is a new sort of stewpan to be got at most_of the large ironmongers’: it is of iron, coated with earthenware. Omelette-pans should be of the same material. Sieves and horn spoons should be kept for sweet things only. TO CANDY.—E. R. 696.—Almonds.—Blanch any quantity of almonds, then fry them in butter till they are of a light-brown colour; wipe them nicely with a napkin, and put them into a pan. Make a syrup of white sugar, and boil it to the exact candying-point ; pour it boiling hot upon the almonds, and stir them till they are quite cold. This is an excellent method of preparing almonds for dessert, and much approved of in London by the guests of his highness the Nawaub of Oude, from whose cook it has been obtained. Bon-bons.—Clear off the sugar from fresh candied citron or orange rind, cut it into squares 1 inch thick, stick them singly on a bit of thin wire, and dip them into liquid barley-sugar ; rub a dish with a few drops of pure salad oil, and lay the fruit upon this to cool. ‘They should be kept in tin canisters in a very dry place. Toffie—Melt in a stewpan 3 0z. of fresh butter, add 1 Ib. of good moist sugar, stir it well over a gentle fire, and let it boil about + of an hour, of till it cracks short between the teeth like barley-sugar; then pour it upon buttered dishes, and when nearly cold mark it across in squares that it ma easily divide, or roll it into sticks. When half-boiled, the Cuap. XXV. PRESERVED FRUITS. _ 488 grated rind of a lemon or a teaspoonful of ground ginger may be added. A few sliced almonds may be added after it is poured upon the dishes. To candy any sort of Fruit—When finished in the syrup, put a layer into a new sieve, and dip it suddenly into hot water, to take off the syrup that hangs about it; put it ona napkin before the fire to drain, and then do some more in the sieve. Have ready sifted double-refined sugar, which sift over the fruit on all sides till quite white; set it on the shallow end of sieves in a lightly warm oven, and turn it 2 or 3 times. It must not be cold till dry. Watch it carefully, and it will* be beautiful. TO GREEN FRUITS FOR PRESERVING OR PICKLING. 697.—Take- pippins, apricots, pears, plums, peaches, while green, for the first, or radish-pods, French beans for the latter, and cucumbers for both processes, and put them, with vine- leaves under and over, into a preserving-pan with spring-water to cover them, and close the pan to éxclude all air. Set it on the side of a fire, and when they begin to simmer take them off; take them out carefully with a slice; the next day put them again on the fire. ‘They are to be peeled, and then done according to the receipts for the several modes. BOTTLED FRUIT—E.R. 698.—The best way of preserving all fruit for tarts is by bottling; and if the following directions be exactly observed, it will be found to answer admirably :—Gather any kind of fruit on a dry day—currants, gooseberries, plums, &c.; put it into wide-mouthed bottles; it should not be fully ripe. Mix currants and raspberries in the same bettle, and put 2 oz. of sugar into each; then have bladders cut so large, that when they are tied over the bottles they will hang an inch all round below the string. Let the bladders be wet, and tied tightly ; then put the bottles up to their necks into a copper of cold water, with some straw between.* Light a fire under the copper, and, when the fruit has sunk into the juice, let the fire go out, and leave the bottles in the water until it is cold; * On this, however, we may remark, that, although bladders may answer the purpose, yet good corks are the only means by which any certainty can be obtained; and for facilitating the sure corking, a small machine, made by Cooper, St. John-street, cannot be too highly recommended. x2 7 oe . “ PS ae 484 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXY. turn the bottles upside down, and keep them in a cool place. If they leak they must be used at once. Fruit thus preserved will keep for any number of years, retaining all its original freshness. They will require more sugar when put into tarts or puddings. The contents of a bottle when opened must be used at once, for the air getting in will spoil them. Green Apricots for Tarts.——When the apricots are the size of a large hazel-nut, thin the trees, gather them on a dry day, wipe them clean, prick them, throw them into a weak syrup, boil them up, let them remain 24 hours, then boil them again ; they will now be quite green. When cold, put them into wide-mouthed bottles, and fill up the bottles with the syrup ; proceed as before stated ; boil for 20 minutes. Ripe Apricots.—Cut them in halves, pack them closely in bottles, which you can easily do with the assistance of 2 skewers; shake them down closely; crack the stones, blanch the kernels, put a few into each bottle, fill the bottle with weak syrup, cork them well, tie them tightly down, put them into cold water, and let them boil for 15 minutes. Green Gages.—Take them before they are thoroughly ripe, prick them all over, put in bottles, fill with syrup, cork and tie them down, put them into cold water, let them heat very gradually ; when they are turned brown take them off the fire, and the next day let them boil for 10 minutes. Cherries.—Fill the bottles and shake them down close, put on the top of each 2 oz. of powdered lump-sugar, cork and tie them down, put them on to boil, and when the juice covers the fruit they are done. TO KEEP GRAPES (as in Switzerland). 699.—Fasten packthread lines near the ceiling of a cool but not damp room. Pick the grapes before they are very ripe; cut out every one that is decayed, but do not let their Juice touch those that remain; seal the extremity of the stalk to keep it from drying, and hang the bunches on the pack- thread. . Or in Brandy.—Take some close bunches, black or white, not over-ripe, and lay them ina jar. Put a good quantity of pounded white sugar-candy upon them, and fill up the jar with brandy ; tie them down with a bladder, and keep in a dry place. Each grape should be pricked thrice. They make a beautiful middle dish in a winter dessert. * . » dae »% Cuap, XXV. PRESERVED FRUITS. 485 TO PRESERVE FRUIT FOR TARTS. 700.—Cherries, plums of all sorts, and American apples, gather when ripe, and lay them in small jars that will hold a pound ; strew over each Jar 6 oz. of good loaf-sugar pounded ; cover with 2 bladders each, separately tied down; then set the jars in a large stewpan of water up to the neck, and let it boil 3 hours gently. Keep these and all other sorts of fruit free from damp. TO PRESERVE APRICOTS. 701.— Green Apricots.—Prick the apricots, cover the bettom of a preserving-pan with vine-leaves, fill the pan with apricots and cold spring water, laying more vine-leaves on the top. Put them over a slow fire until they turn yellow; then take them off, and wipe them well with a flannel and a little salt, and put them over the fire in the same water to green them. Have ready a thin syrup; boil the apricots up in it once, and repeat the process on the 2 following days. Drain them from the syrup, and, rendering it strong with sugar, boil them again in the thick syrup, and put them by for use. Peaches, necta- rines, &c., may be preserved the same way. Ripe Apricots.—Having pared the apricots, thrust out the stones with a skewer, and take the same weight of loaf-sugar as of fruit; strew a part of the sugar over the apricots, and let them stand till next day; then boil them up gently 3 or 4 different times, adding the kernels to the syrup. Let them cool between each boiling, then take them out of the syrup carefully one by one; boil the syrup with all the sugar, skim it carefully, then pour it over the apricots, and tie them down close with a paper and bladder. A beautiful Preserve of Apricots.—When ripe, choose the finest apricots; pare them as thin as possible, and weigh them ; lay them in halves on dishes, with the hollow part upwards ; have ready an equal weight of good loaf-sugar, finely pounded, and strew it over them; in the mean time break the stones and blanch the kernels. When the fruit has lain 12 hours, put it, * with the sugar, juice, and kernels, into a preserving-pan ; let it simmer very gently till clear, then take out the pieces of apricot singly, put them into small pots, and pour the syrup and kernels over them. The scum must be taken off as it rises. Cover with paper. e 486 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXY.. Apricots in Jelly.—Pare the fruit very thin, and stone it; - weigh an equal quantity of sugar in fine powder, and strew over it. Next day boil very gently till they are clear, move them into a bowl, and pour the liquor over. The following day pour the liquor to a quart of codling-liquor ; let it boil quickly till it will jelly; put the fruit into it, and give 1 boil; skim well, and put into small pots. To dry Apricots whole or in halves.—Take them before they are fully ripe, scald them in a jar plunged into boiling water, then pare them and take out the stones; put them into a syrup of half their weight of sugar, in proportion of 1 pint of water to 4 lbs. of sugar; let them scald awhile, and then boil until they are clear. Let them stand for 2 days in the syrup, and then put them into a thin candy, and scald, but not boil, . them in it. Keep them 2 days longer in the candy, heating them each day, and then lay them on glasses to dry. APPLE JELLY TO USE FOR OTHER FRUIT. 702.—Pour into a stewpan a quart of cold water ; throw into it, as quickly as they can be peeled, cored, and weighed, 4 Ibs. of good boiling apples of fine flavour—codlings are the best; stew them till the fruit is well broken; strain through a jelly- bag; to every quart of this juice allow 13 lb, of sugar. ‘This makes a beautiful jelly to preserve other fruits in. TO PRESERVE RIPE PEACHES.—E. R. 703.—October is the best month, as they are then harder and larger. Put them into a preserving-pan full of cold water, with a slice or two of lemon; set them on a slow fire; have ready a sieve and a napkin; be careful not to do them too much: some will be ready sooner than others. When they begin to be soft they are done enough: drain them on the sieve, and let them stand until cold; then put them into glasses: pound sugarcandy very fine in a mortar, dissolve it in brandy, and fill up the glasses with it. y Or :—Wipe, weigh, and pick the fruit, and have ready a, quarter of the weight of fine sugar in fine powder. Put the fruit into an icepot that shuts very close; throw the sugar over it, and then cover the fruit with brandy. Between the top and cover of the pot put a piece of double whity-brown paper. Set the pot in a saucepan of water till the brandy be as hot as you can bear to put your finger into, but it must not boil. Put the ‘ dig CuHap. XXYV. PRESERVED FRUITS. 487 fruit into a jar, and pour the brandy upon it. When cold put | a bladder over it, and tie it down tight. a TO PRESERVE NECTARINES—E. R. 704.—Split the fruit, take out the stones, and put the nec- tarines into clarified sugar till they take it well. Skim the liquor, cover the nectarines with paper, and set them by until the next day. Add sugar to the syrup, boiling it until it will flow ; put in the nectarines, give them a good boil, skim, cover them, and lay them on a stove. The next day take them out of the sugar, drain them, place them separately, dusting sugar over them; the next day put them on the stove or into a cool oven to dry. TO PRESERVE A MELON.—E. R. 705.—Scrape off the thin outside skin, make a hole in the top, take out the seeds; then throw the melon into water, and. after it has remained 12 hours take it out and put it into a preserving-pan, with a large piece of loaf-sugar and as much water as will cover it; then cover the pan closely, and let it remain for an hour on a very slow fire. Repeat this process 3 times, on 3 successive days, taking care not to allow it to boil; make a thin syrup, drain the melon carefully out of the liquor, and put it into the syrup,.set it over a slow fire closely covered for 4 an hour every day for 3 ensuing days, on the last day boiling the syrup until it is very rich, with the rind of 1, and the juice of 2 lemons. To improve the flavour of a melon, take it when nearly ripe, cut out so much of the large end as to permit the scooping out of the seeds; then fill up the hollow with water and sugar, or white wine; close the top, put the melon in a net exposed to the sun for as many days as it remains good. A water melon will thus acquire a fine flavour ; but a musk melon requires no improvement. Or :—Take a melon, cut it into pieces as for eating, trim off the outer rind, freely dust it over with fine sugar, and 12 hours after put it in a preserving-pan with sufficient syrup to cover it ; boil it gently until tender, repeat the boiling for 3 successive days, when the syrup should be thick. TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES.—E. R. 706.—Obtain the juice of currants by boiling them in a jar plunged in water; to every pint of the currant-liquor add 1 lb, . 488 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXV. of strawberries and the weight of both in sugar. Break the sugar in lumps, dip them in water to dissolve, then boil it with the currant-juice, skim it well, then put in the strawberries; let them boil about + of an hour, and put them with the syrup into pots. To preserve Strawberries whole-—To 1 lb. of picked fruit add $¢ lb. of pounded lump-sugar. Lay part of it upon the fruit, and let it remain until the next day; put the remainder of the sugar and a pint of currant-juice to every lb. of straw- berries into a preserving-pan, and boil to a syrup; add the strawberries, and simmer very gently till the fruit is soft, being careful not to break it ; take out the strawberries, and boil the syrup until it appears to be rich. Wait until it is cold, and then put it upon the fruit. | A rich way of preserving Strawberries.—In picking the strawberries reserve the largest kinds; then boil the smaller ones, allowing # 1b. of fine sugar to 1 lb. of fruit; stir it while boiling, and make it into jam. Make a fine syrup of sugar, and boil the larger strawberries in it, taking great care that they be kept separate, and do not break. ‘Take them out, and put them into small preserving-pots; then boil the syrup and the jam together until it is very rich, or make it into a jelly by straining it, and pour it on the strawberries when nearly cold. Choose the largest scarlets, or others, when not dead ripe. In either of the above ways they eat well served in thin cream in glasses. To preserve Strawberries in Wine.—Put a quantity of the finest large strawberries into a gooseberry-bottle, and strew over them 3 larggepoontals of fine sugar ; fill up with Madeira wine or sherry. TO PRESERVE RHUBARB. 707.—To 11 lb. of rhubarb add 1 Ib. of sugar, $ oz. of bitter almonds blanched and chopped very fine, % the peel of a lemon also chopped very fine. Boil all together rather longer than other fruit, or till it will set firm. If the fruit is not quite young, the sticks should be peeled, being first wiped _ quite dry. TO PRESERVE ORANGES OR LEMONS IN JELLY. 708.—Cut a hole at the stalk the size of a shilling, and with a small blunt knife scrape out the pulp quite clear, without Cuap. XXV. . PRESERVED FRUITS. 489 cutting the rind, and lay them in spring water 2 days, chang- ing it twice a-day ; 4n the last, boil them tender on a slow fire, keeping them covered. To every lb. of fruit take 2 lbs. of double-refined sugar and 1 pint of water; boil these with the juice of the orange to a syrup, and clarify it; skim well, and let it stand to be cold; then boil the fruit in the syrup 4 an hour ; if not clear, do this daily till they are done. TO KEEP ORANGES OR LEMONS FOR PASTRY. 709.—When you have squeezed the juice, throw the peels into salt and water; let them remain a fortnight; clean out the pulp; boil them till tender, strain them, and when they are tolerably dry boil a small quantity of syrup of common loaf-sugar and water, and put over them; in a week boil them gently in it till they look clear. TO PRESERVE WHOLE OR HALF QUINCES. 710.—Into 2 quarts of boiling water put a quantity of the fairest golden pippins, in slices not very thin, and not pared, but wiped clean. Boil them very quickly, close covered, till the water becomes a thick jelly; then scald the quinces. To every pint of pippin-jelly put 1 lb. of the finest sugar; boil it, and skim it clear. Put those quinces that are to be done whole into the syrup at once, and let it boil very fast; and those that are to be in halves by themselves; skim it, and when the fruit is clear put some of the syrup into a glass to try. whether it jellies before taking it off the fire. The quantity of quinces is to be 1 Ib. to 1 lb. of sugar, and 1 Ib. of jelly already boiled with the sugar. TO PRESERVE PEARS, ; 711.—Pare them very thin, and simmer in a thin syrup; let them lie a day or two. Make the syrup richer, and simmer again, and repeat this till they are clear; then drain and dry them in the sun or a cool oven a very little time. They may be kept in syrup, and dried as wanted, which makes them more moist and rich. Jargonelles are the best for this purpose. To bake Pears.—These need not be of a fine sort; but some taste better than others, and often those that are least fit to eat raw. Wipe, but do not pare, and lay them on tin plates, and bake them in a slow oven. When soft enough to bear it, flatten them with a silver spoon. When done through, x3 x 490 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cwar. XXYV. put them on a dish. They should be baked 3 or 4 times, and very gently. - To stew Pears.—Pare and halve or quarter large pears, according’ to their size; throw them into water, as the skin is taken off, before they are divided, to prevent their turning black. Pack them round a block-tin stewpan, and sprinkle as much sugar over as will make them pretty sweet, and add lemon-peel, a clove or two, and some allspice cracked ; just cover them with water, and add a little red wine. Cover them close and stew 3 or 4 hours; when tender, take them out, and strain the liquor over them. TO PRESERVE SIBERIAN CRABS.—E. R. 712.—Rub the fruit with a dry flannel, taking care not to break the skin. Prick each with a needle all over to prevent its bursting. Boil 1 lb. of sugar in a pint of water, then put in the fruit and boil it until the skin begins to crack slightly ; then take up the crabs, drain them separately upon a dish; boil the syrup again, and if not strong enough add more sugar ; when cold pour it over the fruit, which must be put into jars, tied down closely, and kept in a cool dry place. Another way.—Boil a pint of water and I lb. of refined sugar toa fine clear syrup; skim it, and let it become cold. Pare the crabs ; and to this quantity of syrup put 1 Ib. of fruit, and simmer slowly till tender. Carefully remove each apple separately, and pour the syrup over when a little cooled, add orange and lemon peel boiled tender. BIFFINS., The Red Digit the Minshul Crab, are the best sorts for drying. *% 713.—Take the Red Biffin apple, and put them into a cool. oven 6 or 7 times, flattening them gently by degrees when they are soft enough to bear it. If the oven should be hot they will waste; and they ought to be put at first into a very cool one. ‘They are prepared in the same manner in France, and when stewed either in milk or’wine are very good. TO PRESERVE MAGNUM BONUM PLUMS.—E. R. 714.—Set them over a slow fire in spring water until they will peel, keeping them under the water; peel and put them into a,jar with a thin syrup, which must cover them, or other- Cuap. XXV. PRESERVED FRUITS. 491 wise they will be discoloured. The next day boil the syrup, then put in the plums, and give them a gentle boil. Let them stand until cold; then repeat the process; turn them in the syrup until nearly cold. ‘Take out the plums, strain the syrup, add more sugar, and skim it well; put in the plums, boil them till they are clear, then cover with paper. Or :—Prick them with a needle to prevent bursting, sim- mer them very gently in thin syrup, put them in a china bowl, and when cold pour it over. Let them lie 3 days; then make a syrup of 3 lbs. of sugar to 5 of fruit, with no more water than hangs to large lumps of the sugar dipped quickly and instantly brought out. Boil the plums in this fresh syrup after draining the first from them. Do them very gently till they are clear and the syrup adheres to them. Put them one by one into small pots, and pour the liquor over. If any are to be dried, keep a little of the syrup in the pan, and boil it quickly: then give the fruit one warm more, drain, and put them to dry on plates in a cool oven. These plums are apt to ferment if not boiled in two syrups ; the first syrup will sweeten» pies, but will have too much acid to keep. You may reserve part of it, and add a little sugar, to do those that are to dry; for they will not require to be so sweet as if kept wet. Do not break them. One parcel may be done after another, and save much sugar. To Dry.—Take the weight of the plums in sugar, wrap each plum in a vine-leaf, put them into a stewpan covered with water, and set them on a slow fire to scald. When sufficiently done take them out and lay them in a bowl or deep dish, pound the sugar, and put it on them; the following day pour the syrup off, and boil it, and put it.on the plums; this do every day for 4 or 5 days; then take the plums out of the syrup, sift sugar over them, lay them upon tins, and dry them in a cool oven or before the fire. A common Preserve of Plums.—Put the plums -into a jar large enough to hold 1 Ib. of fruit, add 7 oz. of good moist sugar; tie the jar over with 2 bladders tied separately ; place the jar in a kettle of cold water up to the bladders; do not cover the kettle, and let them boil in the water for 3 hours. TO PRESERVE GREENGAGES.—E. R. 715.—Pick and prick all the plums; put them into a. pre- 492 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. CHap. XXV. serving-pan with cold water enough to cover them. Let them remain on the fire until the water simmers well; then take off, and allow them to stand until half cold, putting the plums to drain. To every lb. of plums allow 1 lb. of sugar, which must be boiled in the water from which the plums have been taken ; let it boil very fast until the syrup drops short from the spoon, skimming carefully all the time. When the sugar is suffi- ciently boiled put in the plums, and allow them to boil until the sugar covers the pan with large bubbles. Then pour the whole into a pan, and let them remain until the following day. Drain the syrup from the plums as dry as possible, boil it up quickly, and pour it over the plums; then set them by; do this a third and a fourth time. On the fifth day, when the syrup is boiled, put the plums into it, and let them boil fora few minutes; then put them into jars. Should the greengages be over ripe, it will be better to make jam of them, using 2 lb. of sugar to 1 lb. of fruit. Warm the jars before putting the sweetmeats in, and be careful not to boil the sugar to a candy. TO PRESERVE GOOSEBERRIES. 716.—Take the rough-skinned fruit when quite dry, with rather more than their weight of sugar pounded fine; lay a layer of fruit and a layer of sugar till all are in the pan; add a teacupful of water, and boil the fruit quickly till it is clear ; take it out and put it into jars; boil up the syrup till it is thick, then pour it over the fruit. When cold cover close with pasted or egged paper. MARMALADES. 717.—Apricot.—Gather the fruit before it is too ripe, stone and blanch the kernels. To every Ib. of fruit take 2 lb. of fine loaf-sugar: break the sugar into lumps, dip the lumps in water, allow them to dissolve, put it over a clear fire, and let it boil to a candy; then pound and sift it; pare the fruit, cut it into thin slices, put them with the sugar over a slow fire, let it simmer till clear, but do not boil it; add the kernels, and then put the marmalade into jars. - Or :—Boil ripe apricots in syrup until they will mash ; beat them in a mortar: take 4 their weight in loaf-sugar, and suffi- cient water ,to dissolve it; boil all together, and skim until it is clear, and the syrup thick like fine jelly. Apple.—Pare and core any kind of good boiling apples. Cuap. XXV. PRESERVED FRUITS. 493 | To every 4 lbs. add 1 pint of cold water. Cover them close in the preserving-pan, and let them boil till the fruit will ‘mash with a fork. To every lb. of fruit put 2 lb. of loaf- sugar. Keep the marmalade well stirred to prevent its burn- ing, and let it boil till it will set firm. Common moist sugar is sometimes employed for family use. Quince.—Pare and quarter the fruit, put it in layers ina stone jar with sugar sprinkled between each; add a teacupful of water, and bake it in a cool oven. Have a quantity of sugar equal in weight to the fruit; allow 1 quart of water to every 4 lbs.; boil the sugar and water together, skimming it well. When the quinces are soft add them, with a quart of the juice which will be found in the jar: boil them in the syrup, beating it with a spoon until the marmalade is quite smooth. Another way.—Pare and quarter quinces, weigh an equal quantity of sugar; to 4 lbs. of the a er put | quart of water, boil and skim, and have it ready whilst 4 lbs. of quinces are made tolerably tender by the following mode :—Lay them in a stone jar with a teacupful of water at the bottom, and pack them with a little sugar strewed between; cover the jar close, and set it on a stove or cool oven, and let them soften till the colour become red ; then pour the fruit-syrup and 1 quart of quince-juice into a preserving-pan, and boil all together till the marmalade is completed, breaking the lumps of fruit with a wooden fork. This fruit isso hard that if it be not done as above it requires a great deal of time. Stewing quinces in a jar, and then squeezing them through a cheese-cloth, is the best method of obtaining the Juice to add as above : dip the cloth in boiling water ee and wring it. and 12 lemons; have their w eight in TCE: erate the oranges slightly all over to take away the bitterest part of the peel, cut the rind all round, and with a spoon separate it from the fruit without breaking the edge; boil the peel in 2 separate waters 20 minutes each time; the first water should be cold, the second boiling. ‘The peel should be shred in extremely thin slices; separate the seeds and every bit of skin from the pulp; then mash it in a marble mortar; boil the sugar till it is a clear syrup; having dipped the lumps into cold water, add 494 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. CHar. XXY. the pulp and juice; let it boil ¢ of an hour; then add the shred peel; let it boil till tender. The peel only of the lemons is used; the lemons will do for lemon-pickle. Or -—Weigh the oranges; to 6 lbs. of fruit allow 9 Ibs. of raw or 6 lbs. of good refined sugar; boil the oranges whole till you can pierce them with a straw. ‘Then cut them in quarters, take the seeds out of the pulp, and serape the white under skin from the peel. Slice or mince the oranges, put the sugar with a little water into a pan; and when dissolved put the whole together, and let it boil on a slow fire until it becomes of a proper consistency. Orange Marmalade for Puddings.— Take 12 Seville oranges, boil them till quite tender, changing the water 2 or 3 times, take out the seeds, pulp, and inner skin of the rind; beat the outer rind in a marble mortar very fine; add to it the pulp and juice; to every lb. of this add 2 Ibs. of fine moist sugar; mix it all well together; put it into a larger jar than will hold it, as it ferments a little at first. It will keep for years, and no boiling is necessary. If made for breakfast it looks prettier when made with loaf-sugar. Transparent.—Cut the palest Seville oranges in quarters ; take the pulp out and put it ina basin; pick out the seeds and skins. Let the outsides soak in water with a Jitéle salt all night, then boil them in a good quantity of spring water till tender; drain, and cut them in very thin slices, and put them to the pulp; add to every lb. 14 lb. of double-refined sugar beaten fine; boil them together 20 minutes, but be careful not to break the slices. If not quite clear, simmer 5 or 6 minutes longer. It must be stirred all the time very gently. When cold, put it into glasses. Mixed.—Split and stone 4 dozen plums, blanch the kernels, and pound them in a mortar with a little rose-water; pare and core 2 dozen pears and the same number of apples ; put them into a jar with a little sugar, but no water. Bake them in a cool oven. Beat them well in a preserving-pan, stir in 3 lbs. of sugar, and boil them 1 hour; put the marmalade into small deep dishes, and dry it gently in a cool oven. Scotch.—Take 6 or 8 lbs. of Seville oranges, pare off the skins thinly, so that there shall be as little as possible of the white portion; cut the parings into strips or chips, and cut them across again into very small pieces. Put them intoa CHAP. XXYV. PRESERVED FRUITS. 495 pan with as much water as will cover them, boil them for 1 hour, then strain them through a sieve, and lay them aside. Next quarter the oranges, and scrape out the pulp and juice into a dish, throwing away the white skins, films, and seeds ; put the whole into a pan, together with 7 or 8 lbs. of sugar, according to the original weight of the oranges ; let the whole boil for $ an hour; skim it, and pour it into pans for use. It may be observed that, although this marmalade should be madé entirely of Seville oranges, yet a few, if mixed with the common sorts, are sufficient to give the necessary flavour, and in that manner is made all that is sold in the shops as “ Scotch marmalade.” COMP OTES. 718.— Orange.—Lay the oranges in water for 4 hours, then boil them till tender, cut them in halves, and take out all the insides ; to every lb. of peel well pounded add 1 Ib. of sugar ; then take all the skins and seeds out of the pulp, add its weight of sugar, and beat it well; then mix it with the peel, and beat it again in a mortar, and pot it for use. 2 dozen sweet Lisbon oranges will make a large jar of paste: it will keep good for several years in pots covered with paper. Red Currant.—Boil 3 lb. of sugar in 4 pint of water for 15 minutes ; simmer a quart of picked currants in it for 10 minutes. Raspberries, cherries, gooseberries, rhubarb, or almost any sort of fruit, may be prepared in the same proportions, only varying the quantity of sugar according to the acidity of the fruit. ‘These compotes will be found excellent served with batter, bread, ground rice, or any other puddings, or with a little custard or cream. Apple.—tTake a dozen fine rennets, peel and core them, but do not divide them; put them into a wide-necked jar, strew amongst them some thinly shred lemon-peel, and put 1 Ib. of fine moist sugar upon them. When the apples are very ripe add a little lemon-juice; put in 4 pint of water; cover the jar close, and bake slowly. They may be served .ot, with the juice poured over them; or, when cold, for dessert, or for a corner dish, with a eustard poured round them. Take off the peel with a knife, cut each orange in half, sprinkle them with sugar, and let them just warm through; peel very thin, without any of the white, two oranges, and 496 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar. XXY. boil this peel in the syrup until it is tender; pile up the fruit high, and put the peel on the top, and pour the syrup over. TO DRY CURRANTS FOR DESSERT.—E. R. 719.—Have a basin of water and dissolve in it a sufficient quantity of gum-Arabic to make it rather thick; have also a plateful of the best loaf-sugar, pounded and sifted. Dip bunches of ripe red currants into the gum-Arabic solution, and then roll them well in the sugar: lay them separately on a dish to dry in the sun. They are very pretty for dessert, to be eaten immediately ; if kept, care must be taken that the bunches do not touch, and the process should be repeated by rolling them in sugar for several days successively. BARBERRY CAKES..—E. R. 720.—Pick the barberries and weigh them; to every lb. of fruit add 1 lb. of sugar pounded and sifted. Bruise the bar- berries in a mortar, boil them gently till nearly all the juice is consumed, then take them off the fire and stir in the sugar _ by degrees; drop the fruit on earthen dishes to dry: it must not be put over the fire after the sugar is in, nor must there be any water used.. Do not pound the barberries too small, as the cakes will not look so well. Currant cakes may be made in the same way. FRUIT WAFERS FOR DESSERT.—E. R. 721.—Take currants, cherries, apricots, or any other fruit ; put them into an earthen jar in a kettle of water, and when scalded strain them through a sieve. ‘To every pint of juice add the same weight of finely sifted sugar and the white of a small egg. Beat all together until it becomes quite thick, then put it upon buttered paper in a slow oven: let them: remain until they will quit the paper, then turn them, and leave them in the oven until quite dry; cut them into shapes and keep them between paper in a box near the fire. GOOSEBERRY CHEESE. 722.—Gather the rough red gooseberries when quite ripe; bake them ; pass them through a hair sieve ; boil them gently. To every lb. of gooseberries put 3 oz. of sugar, which should be strewed in every now and then, a little at a time. It will take several hours to boil, in order to obtain the proper thickness. " Ona ee PRESERVED FRUITS. 497 To dry Gooseberries.—Put 5 lbs. of gooseberries into a stewpan, and strew over them 1 lb. of sugar; set them ona -slow fire ; when the syrup begins to come out take them off; scald them in this way for 2 or 3 days, then take them out of the syrup, place them upon sieves, and put them before the fire or in the sun to dry. ‘They may be dipped into powdered white sugar when taken out of the syrup, and thus candied. They should be laid between paper in tin boxes when put by for use. CHERRIES.—E. R. 723.— To Dry.—Weigh the cherries before they are stoned, and allow to every lb. of fruit ¢ lb. of lump-sugar ; when they are stoned set them over a slow fire to heat, then take them out of the liquor and put the sugar to them, and let them stand till it is dissolved. ‘Then set them over the fire and let them just boil. Allow them to stand for 2 or 3 days in the syrup, and again boil them; afterwards strain them, and spread them on sieves to dry, either on a stove or in the sun, or in an oven after the bread is drawn. The same syrup will do again for more fruit. To Dry without Sugar.—Stone, and set them over the fire; let them simmer in their own liquor, and shake them in the pan. Put them to get cold; next day give them another scald, and put them when cold on sieves to dry in an oven of tem- perate heat. Twice heating, an hour each time, will do them. Put them in a box, with a paper between each layer. Preserved in Brandy.—Reserve a fourth portion of the cherries, clip the stalks of the remainder; lay them carefully in jars, and fill up the jars with brandy, putting no sugar, as that would wrinkle them. Then stone the remaining portion, boil them with double their weight of sugar, and put them aside. When the brandy-cherries are taken out for dessert, mix a portion of this preserve with the liquor, and they will taste very rich; or the cherries may be strained and the liquor only used, in addition to the brandy from the other cherries. Another method.—Weigh the finest morellas, having cut off half the stalk; prick them with a new needle, and drop them into a jar or wide-mouthed bottle. Pound # the weight of sugar or white candy; strew over; fill up with brandy, and tie a bladder over. tolled Cherries, which taste as if done in Brandy.—To + aa —__ * i, 498 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. nar. XXY. every 3 lbs. of morella cherries put 1 lb. of double-refined sugar, sifted in layers, in a large stone jar or small keg. Stop it perfectly close, and roll the jar to and fro for a short time every day for 6 weeks. Keep them in a cool place. When intended for Tarts and Puddings.——Take 15 Ibs. of Kentish cherries; boil, and break them as they boil, and when the juice has all boiled away, and the bottom of the pan is visible, put in 3 lbs. of lump sugar finely powdered. Stir the cherries well, and let them have 2 or 3 boils; then adda pint of currant-juice, skim the pot, and take out the stones, which will rise to the top. This jam will keep until late in the spring without the addition of any more sugar, and will make good tarts and puddings. ALMACK’S PRESER VE.—E. R. 724,—Take different kinds of fruit, stone the plums pe slice the apples and pears, put them in alternate layers ina jar; set them in the oven until they are quite soft; then pass the pulp through a coarse sieve, and to every lb. of fruit put a lb. of moist sugar, set it over a slow fire and stir it till very thick, then put it into a wide shallow pot and cut it in slices for use. Windfalls may be employed for this sort of sweet- meat. Another.—Put into a pan 4 dozen split plums, 2 dozen apples, and 2-dozen pears, pared thin and cored. Boil them — without water. When well blended together, and .the stones taken out, stir in 3 lbs. of sugar, and boil them an hour. Put it into shallow pans or soup-plates, and dry in the sun ora cool oven. DAMSON CHEESE.—E. R. 725.—Stone the damsons, take out the kernels and blanch them; put the whole into a stone jar and bake it. Pour off a part of the juice, put the fruit into a preserving-pan, boil it quickly. until it looks rather dry. ‘To every 2 Ibs. of the original quantity of fruit take 4 1b. of loaf-sugar; now stir the sugar well in, and let it pay slowly for 2 hours. ‘Then boil it again quickly until it begins to candy at the sides of the pan Pour the jam into shallow pots not more than an inch deep ; cover with brandy-paper, and tie down close. Or :—Gatlier the damsons on a dry day; bake or boil them till the pulp will pass through a coarse hair sieve, then add a - OCnar. XXV. PRESERVED FRUITS. 499 their weight of moist sugar; boil it 14 hour, stirring it con- tinually to keep it from burning. JAMS. 726.— Raspberry.—Take equal weights of fruit and moist sugar; put them on the fire together; keep stirring and break- ing the fruit till the sugar melts, then boil till it will jelly on a plate. Though simple, this will be found a very good receipt. Or :—Take equal weight of fruit and roughly-pounded loaf- sugar; bruise the fruit with the back of a spoon, and boil them together for 3 an hour; ifa little more juice is wanted, add the juice of currants drawn as for jelly. Grape.—The grapes ought not to be very ripe. They should be carefully picked, and all that are at all injured should be rejected. Tol lb. of grapes add 4 lb. of sugar; no water but what hangs about them after they have been washed. Puta layer of sugar, then a layer of grapes. Boil on a moderate fire, stirring it all the time, to prevent its burning. Cherry.—Stone 4 lbs. of cherries, and put them in a pre- serving-pan with 2 lbs. of fine white sugar and a pint of red- currant juice. Boil the whole together rather fast, until it stiffens, and then put it into pots for use. Gooseberry.—Stalk and crop 6 lbs. of the small, red, rough gooseberry, put them into a preserving-pan, and, as they warm, stir and bruise them to bring out the juice. Let them boil for 10 minutes, then add 4 Ibs. of sugar, and place it on the fire again; let it boil, and continue boiling for 2 hours longer, stirring it all the time to prevent its burning. When it thickens, and will jelly upon a plate, it is done enough. Put it into pots, and allow it to remain a day before it is covered. Blackberry.—In families where there are many children there is no preparation of fruit so wholesome, so cheap, and so much admired, as this homely conserve. The fruit should be clean picked in dry weather, and to every lb. of berries put 4 Ib. of coarse brown sugar ; boil the whole together for ~ of an hour or | hour, stirring it well the whole time. Put it in pots like any other preserve, and it will be found most useful in families, as it may be given to children instead of medicine; makes excellent puddings; and even if the fruit be purchased in London, the cost will not exceed 8d. per lb. 500 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cnap. XXV. Bahay, —Take the barberries without stones, pick thant from the stalks, take their weight in loaf-sugar, put them into ajar, and place it in a kettle of water until the sugar is dis- solved and the barberries quite soft. ‘The next day put them into a preserving-pan, and boil them for ¢ of an hour. Put them into jars, and keep them in a dry place. * TO PRESERVE BARBERRIES IN BUNCHES. 727.—Take the stoneless barberries, reserve the largest bunches ; then pick the rest from the stalks, put them into as much water as will make a syrup for the bunches, boil them - until quite soft ; then strain them through a sieve, and to every pint of juice put 14 Ib. of loaf-sugar: boil and skim it well. To every pint of this syrup put 4 lb. of barberries in bunches, boil them until they look quite clear, and put them into pots or glasses. ‘Tie paper over them. ‘They are only used as a garnish for other sweet dishes. COMPOSITION SWEETMEAT.—E. R. 728.—Take 2 pottles of ripe red gooseberries, 2 of red rasp- berries, 2 of strawberries (the pines are best), and 3 pints of ripe red currants; bruise and mix them together in a deep dish, and to every pint of the fruit put 2 lb. of sugar, pounded pretty fine; then boil it for 4 an hour, stirring it all the time it is on the fire. Cherries may also be added, first taking out the stones; measure them with the other fruit for the weight of sugar. ._' ' CURRANT JELLY. 729.—Take of red and white currants equal quantities, or all red, tie them down close in a jar, put them into a kettle of water over a slow fire to boil for 2 hours, or into a slow oven; strain the liquor through a fine sieve, but do not squeeze the currants hard; then to every pint of juicé put 2 lb. of loaf- sugar; set it over a very slow fire until the sugar is dissolved. Let the scum rise thick enough to be taken off at once; then let it boil up quickly for 20 minutes, or until it jellies. Currant Jelly without boiling.—Press the juice from the currants, and make it quite hot, but it must not be allowed to boil. To each pint of juice add a full Jb. of loaf-sugar, pounded very fine, and made quite hot in the oven, and then stirred gradually into the hot j juice until it is melted. ¢ CHar. XXV. .. PRESERVED FRUITS. | E01 APPLE JELLY. 730.— Quarter a peck of codlings, put them into a pre- serving-pan with the peel of a lemon, a small piece of cinna- mon, and 6 cloves; add as much spring water as will just cover them. Boil the whole to a pulp, then run them through a jelly-bag, and to every pint of juice put 2 lb. of good loaf- sugar; boil it fast until it jellies; then pour it into pots or moulds. August is the best time to make this jelly, when the codlings are full grown, but not ripe. Crabs greatly improve this jelly, and when they are not to be had a little lemon- uice. Jelly may be made of any kind of fruit by putting the fruit into a preserving-pan with its own weight of sugar, boiling and skimming it until it will jelly; then pour the whole through a jelly-bag, but do not press it; take what remains in the bag and boil it + of an hour for jam, and put the juice into another stewpan and boil the same time. This.method saves the trouble of pressing, and prevents waste. MARMALADE JELLY. 731.—To every lb. of Seville oranges put 3 pints of water, cut the oranges into quarters, keeping out all the seeds ; sepa- rate the rind first, and steep it in water 24 hours, or even longer, to take off the bitter ; then boil the peel slowly with the oranges, till it is tender; run all through a jelly-bag, and to every pint add 1 Ib. of loaf-sugar, then boil it at least } an hour. . & < . pe. an < : be ‘weg a. : oe te ¢ x ips, <) & 512 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Omar. XXVI The greater number of times boiling vinegar is poured over either sort, the sooner it will be pee! “MIXED PICKLE—E. R. - 753.—To 1 gallon of vinegar put 4 oz. of ginger bruised, __ oz. of white pepper, 2 of allspice, 2 of chilis, 4 of turmeric, 1 Ib. of mustard-seed, 3 1b. of shalots, 1 oz. of garlic, and $]b. of bay-salt. Boil all together except the mustard-seed, which must be added afterwards. ‘Then mix very smoothly ; Ib. of made mustard with some of the vinegar, when cold, in a basin, and add it to the remainder with the seed. Take brocoli, radish-pods, French beans, or any other vegetables or small fruit ; blanch the vegetables, lay them on a sieve, and sprinkle a little salt over them to draw out the water. Let them stand in the sun till very dry, then pour the Wp oeboling over them, slicing in some horseradish if approved Pickle of this kind can be rendered hot at pleasure, by additions of chilis, green and red capsicums—which, when gathered young, add exquisite flavour—and all sorts of foreign peppers. As the spring advances, a portion of every small root produced in a garden, if collected and thrown into cold vinegar, till it can be conveniently made into a regular pickle, will be found most excellent, at no greater expense than the cost of the spice and vines , and the trouble of mixing it. 754.—Is made in realy nes same manner. — Put 200 gher- kins, 3 pints of small onions, 1 quart of nasturtiums, 1 ditto of radish-pods, " quartern of French beans, 6 cauliflowers, and 2 hard white cabbages sliced, into a pan, and sprinkle them with salt, the onions having been previously peeled and laid in salt and water for a week to take off their strength. Then, after a day or two, take them out of the pan and dry them * thoroughly in a warm place in the shade : they must be spread out separately. To 2 gallons of vinegar put 14 0z. of allspice, . »the'same of long pepper and of white, and 2 of ginger, tied up: in muslin bags. When cold, mix with the vinegar 13 lb. of flour of mustard, and 2 tablespoonfuls of cayenne pepper. Boil it well together, and pour it on the pickle: the vege- tables mentioned, not being all procurable at the same time, may be added separately, at different periods, but oi m all undergo the salting and drying process. -* os - CHap, XXVI. PICKLES, | 513 In choosing those vegetables some discrimination may also be used: when in season, few things add a higher flavour to the pickle than the buds and flowers of the elder. India Pickle may also be made thus :—Peel, slice, and salt 1 lb. of garlic; then put it during 3 days in the sun to dry. Salt and dry long pepper in the same way. Lay 1 lb. of white ginger in water | night ; then scrape, slice, and lay it in salt in a pan till the other ingredients shall be ready. Prepare various vegetables thus :— Quarter small white cabbages, salt 3 days, squeeze, and set them in the sun to dry. Cut cauliflowers in their branches; take off the green from radishes ; cut celery in 3-inch lengths; ditto young French beans whole, after being stringed ; like- wise shoots of elder, which look like bamboo. Apples and cucumbers, choose of the least seedy sort; cut them in slices, or quarters if not too large. All must be salted, drained, and dried in the sun, except the latter, over which you must pour boiling vinegar, and in 12 hours drain them, but no salt must be used. Put the spice, garlic, + lb. of mustard-seed, and as much vinegar as you think enough for the quantity you are to pickle, into a large stone jar, and 1 oz. of turmeric to be ready against the vegetables shall be dried. When they are ready, put some of them into a 2-quart stone jar, and pour over them 1 quart of boiling vinegar. Next day take out those vegeta- bles ; and, when drained, put them into a large stock-jar, and, boiling the vinegar, pour it over some more of the vegetables : let them lie a night, and do as above. Thus proceed till you have cleansed each set from the dust which must inevitably fall on them by being so long in doing ; then, to every gallon of vinegar put 2 oz. of flour of mustard, mixing, by degrees, with a little of it boiling-hot. The whole of the vinegar should have been previously scalded, but set to be cool before it was put to the spice. Stop the jar tight. This pickle will not be ready for a year; but you may make a small jar to be ready in a fortnight, by giving the cauliflower one scald in water, after salting and drying as above, but without the preparative vinegar; then pour the vinegar, that has the spice and garlic, boiling-hot over. If at any time it be found that the vegetables have not swelled pro- perly, boiling the pickle, and pouring it over them hot, will plump them Z3 % be . 7 ¥. 514 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar.XXVI Roots, such as carrots, salsifis, scorzonera, and beetroot may be pickled by being sliced, or cut into small pieces, and slightly boiled in vinegar without destroying their crispness, and adding the common spices; with beetroot put button onions, or cut some Spanish onions in slices, lay them alter- nately in a jar; boil 1 quart of vinegar with 1 oz. of mixed pepper, + oz. of ginger, and some salt, and pour it cold over the beetroot and onions. VINEGARS. ~755.— Vinegar for India Pickle-—Prepare a gallon of vinegar, more or less, according to the quantity of pickles to be done, in the following manner :—Mix gradually 2 Ib. of the best flour of mustard, and 2 oz. of powdered turmeric, with some of the cold vinegar at first, to ensure its being properly mixed ; then add the rest, with + lb. of white mustard-seed. Bruise ¢ lb. of ginger, 2 oz. of white pepper, and 1 oz. of chilis, and tie them in a muslin bag. Boil the whole gently for 20 minutes or 4 an hour, and pour it whilst boiling on the pickles, having previously drained off the vinegar they were first put into. In 10 or 12 days repeat the boiling, pour it over the pickles whilst boiling hot, and they will be ready for use when cold. Walnut Vinegar.—Put green walnut-shells into a brine of salt and water strong enough to float an egg; let them lie covered in this 10 or 12 days; take them out, and lay them in the sun for a week ; put them into a jar, and pour boiling vinegar on them; in about a week or 10 days pour off the vinegar, make it boiling hot, and pour over them again. In a month it will be fit for use, and will be found excellent to eat with cold meat, and particularly useful in making sauces. Cucumber Vinegar.—Pare and slice 15 large cucumbers, and put them ina stone jar, with 3 pints of vinegar, 4 large onions sliced, 2 or 8 shalots, a little garlic, 2 large spoonfuls of salt, 3 teaspoonfuls of pepper, and 4 a teaspoonful of cay- enne. After standing 4 days, give the whole a boil: when cold, strain, and filter the liquor through paper. Camp Vinegar.—Slice a large head of garlic, and put it into a wide-mouthed bottle, with 4 oz. of cayenne, 2 tea- spoonfuls of real soy, 2 of walnut-ketchup, 4 anchovies chopped, — 1 pint of vinegar, and enough cochineal to give it the colour * Cuar,. XXVIL viNnies. 515 of lavender-drops. Let it stand 6 weeks; then strain off quite clear, and keep in small bottles sealed up. Another.—Infuse in a quart of the best white-wine vine- gar ¢ pint of walnut-ketchup, the same quantity of mushroom- ketchup, and also the same quantity of soy, 4 oz. of cayenne, 4 heads of garlic, 10 shalots, 2 oz. of black and 2 oz. of white pepper, the same quantity of pimento and ginger, 1 oz. of nutmeg, 3 blades of mace, and 10 cloves, in a wide-mouthed 2-quart bottle ; and cover very closely with cork, leather, and bladder. Let it remain near the fire a month, shaking it frequently. When any is taken out, put in as much fresh vinegar. ‘This is not only a very fine sauce, but a great pre- servative against infectious diseases, if taken freely. * Nasturtium Vinegar.—Pick full-blown nasturtium flowers ; fill a wide-mouthed bottle with them; add 4 a clove of garlic and a moderate-sized shalot chopped ; pour as much vinegar as the bottle will take ; in 2 months’ time rub the whole eee a fine sieve; adda little cayenne-pepper and salt. Reaper and Elder-flower Vinegar.—Take either the young leaves of tarragon when the plant is going into bloom, or the buds of elder-flowers, and to every 3 peck put 1 gallon of vinegar, leaving it for a fortnight in a jug to ferment. Then drain it through a flannel bag, put into it a small bit of dissolved isinglass, and bottle it. The flavour of the herbs may also be extracted by boiling the buds or leaves in vinegar, without fermentation : a mixture of both is very agreeable. Raspberry Vinegar.—To 1 quart of common vinegar put 2 quarts of fresh raspberries, let them stand 24 hours; then drain them off, but do not squeeze them. Put in 2 quarts more, let them stand as before, and this must be repeated a third time, After which, put the vinegar into a jar, measure it, and to every pint put 1 lb. of lump-sugar. Set the jar up to the neck in boiling water, and let the vinegar boil for 10 minutes, stirring it frequently. There should on no account be fewer raspberries than the proportion mentioned, and the vinegar will not be fit for use until the following summer. Gooseberry Vinegar.—Boil spring water ; and when cold, put to every 3 quarts 1 quart of bruised gooseberries in a large tub. Let them remain 60 hours, stirring often: then 516 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXVI. strain through a hair bag, and to each gallon of liquor add 1 lb. of the coarsest sugar. Put it into a barrel, and a toast and yeast; cover the bung-hole with a bit of slate. Set the barrel © in the sun, observing that the cask be well painted, and the iron hoops all firm. ‘The greater the quantity of sugar and fruit the stronger the vinegar ; and as this is particularly use- ful for pickles, it might be well to make it of double the strength for that purpose. Chili Vinegar.—Fill a bottle with the chilis or capsicums —each of which will impart the proper warmth of flavour— nd cover them with vinegar; cork it up closely, let it stand for 3 weeks or a month, then pour off the vinegar, and fill up *the bottle again: chilis are the most commonly used, but good capsicums will flavour several additions of vinegar. If capsi- cums are not procurable, put 1 oz. of cayenne pepper to a quart of vinegar, and let it stand some time, shaking it ocea- sionally. Then strain it off, and fill the bottle up again. = LEMON FLAVOURING FOR PUDDINGS. 756.—Peel 6 lemons very thin indeed ; put the peel into a glass bottle, and add a tablespoonful of bitter almonds, blanched, or the same quantity of peach or apricot kernels. Cover the whole with brandy; shake it frequently, and in a month strain it, and if kept closely corked it will keep for ears. 7 MUSHROOM KETCHUP.—E. R. 757.—Take the full-grown flaps of freshly-gathered mush- rooms, crush them with the hands, throw a handful of salt into every peck, and let them stand a night or two; then put them into pans, and set them in a quick oven for 12 hours; strain them through a hair sieve, and press out all the juice. To every gallon of liquor put of cloves, Jamaica and black pepper, and ginger, 1 oz. each, and 4 lb. of common salt. Set it on a slow fire, and let it boil until half the liquor is wasted; then put it into another vessel, and, when cold, strain and bottle it ; at the same time corking it up closely, and covering the cork with oiled paper. Or :—Take the largest broad mushrooms, break them into an earthen pan, strew salt over, and stir them now and then for several days, till there is a thick scum over; strain, and boil the liquor with Jamaica and black peppers, mace, ginger, a clove or two, and some mustard-seed. Cayenne pepper is too Cuap. XXVI. ' FAMILY SAUCES. . 517 hot, but a very little chili vinegar is an improvement. When cold, bottle it, and secure the corks as above, leaving the spice in. At the end of 3 months strain the liquor and boil with fresh spice, which put into the bottles; and in a cool place it will keep 2 or 3 years. Or :—Take a stewpan full of the large flap mushrooms that are not wormeaten, and the skins and fringe of those you have pickled: throw a handful of salt among them, and set them for a few days in a warm room, stirring them occasion- ally. They will produce a great deal of liquor, to which you must put 4 oz. of shalots, 2 cloves of garlic, a good deal of pepper, ginger, mace, cloves, and a few bay-leaves, with a stick of horseradish ; boil slowly, and skim very well. When cold, put the whole in a cask without straining, but bung it close up. In 2 months boil it up again with a little fresh spice: then strain it through a flannel bag, but boil what re- mains in it with asmall quantity of strong beer ; when strained, either add this to the former, or bottle it separately. It should be kept for some months before being used, but remains good for a long time, which mushroom-ketchup rarely does, if not boiled a second time. To all these receipts we strongly recommend the addition of a moderate quantity of port wine—from % pint to not quite a pint to every 4 quarts—both as greatly improving the flavour of the ketchup and ensuring its better preservation. With regard to the spice, care should be taken not to allow it to overpower the natural flavour of the vegetable. WALNUT KETCHUP.—E. R. 758.—Take 200 walnuts at the season for pickling, beat them very small on a marble mortar, add about 6 handfuls of salt ; put them into a clean earthen pan, and stir them 2 or 3 times a day for 10 days or a fortnight. Then strain them through a cloth, pressing them very dry. Then boil up the liquor with mace, cloves, sliced nutmeg, and whole pepper. When nearly done, add 6 cloves of shalot ; bottle and cork it closely. The bottle should be-shaken when the ketchup is used. Or :—Take the green shells of ripe walnuts; to each peck add 1 lb. of common or bay salt, pounded fine ; stir well toge- ther, and let them remain for 3 or 4 days, stirring them occa- sionally that the air may turn them black ; then boil a gallon 518 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Omar. XXVI. of water with 1 lb. of bay salt, and pour over the shells boiling hot; let them stand 8 or 10 days, and pour off the liquor. Boil well 1 hour, adding, towards the last, 2 oz. of long pepper, the same of black, 2 02. of shalots cut small, 2 oz. of brown mustard-seed bruised, + oz. of mace and cloves, 4 pint of vinegar, and ¢ Ib. of good anchovies. Pour into a jar or cask, and in 2 or 3 spate strain and bottle. Walnut-Ketchup of the finest quality—Boil or simmer a gallon of the expressed juice of walnuts when they are tender, and skim it well; then put in 2 Ibs. of anchovies, bones, and liquor, ditto of shalots, 1 oz. of cloves, ditto of mace, ditto* of pepper, and 1 clove of garlic. Let all simmer till the shalots sink; then put the liquor into a pan till cold; bottle and divide the spice to each. Cork closely, tie the bladder over, and put it in small bottles. It will keep 20 years in the greatest perfection, but is not fit for use the first year. Be very careful to express the j juice at home, for it is generally adulterated if bought. Irish mode:—Take a few hundred green walnuts, scoop out all the whites, beat them in a mortar, and strain the juice through a cloth; let it stand a day and night, strain it, and pour it off clear. To 1 pint of this liquor put 4 pint of vinegar with 4 lb. of anchovies, and to each pint thus made a clove or two of garlic, 2 or 3 shalots, some horseradish, and 1 onion cut in quarters; boil it 2 hours, and then strain it off. When strained add to every pint of liquor half + oz. of mace, the same quantity of cloves, of nutmeg, and of whole black pepper, 3 pint of port wine, and 2 tablespoonfuls of soy. Boil them together for + an hour. Then pour it off into an earthen jar, and let it remain covered until it is cold; bottle it off into clean dry bottles, distributing the spice equally in each; cork it down closely ; take care in boiling to keep the saucepan covered. CUCUMBER KETCHUP.—E. R. 759.—Take an equal quantity of large cucumbers and large onions, pare and slice them; throw over them a handful of salt, and let them stand all night in a sieve placed over a pan. Take the liquor and boil it up, with } lb. of anchovies to every dozen of cucumbers, 1 pint of white wine, a nutmeg, + oz. of mace, and 4 oz. of whole pepper; strain it, and when cold bottle it; tie it down with bladder. It will keep for 2 years. Cuap. XXVI. FAMILY SAUCES. 519 The Suffolk Receipt.—Take a dozen well-grown cucum- bers and 4 large onions, slice them into an earthen pan with a good handful of salt ; let them stand till the liquor begins to run, break them into small pieces, and let the whole stand an- - other day and night: then strain it off: to every quart put the same quantity of white, but not sweet wine, + lb. of anchovies, and a large stick of horseradish ; boil them together for 4 an hour, then strain it again, and to every quart put } oz. of white pepper, 4 the quantity of mace and nutmeg, all pounded, and boil it well again. When cold, bottle it with the spice, and put a piece of ginger into each bottle. A tablespoonful in a sauce-boatful of cream or melted butter makes delicious white sauce for fowls or made dishes of veal. TOMATA KETCHUP.—E. R. 760.—Take 2 dozen of ripe tomatas and a handful of salt ; slice the tomatas, and put a layer into a jar, sprinkle salt over it, then another layer of tomatas and salt, until the jar is full. Stir the contents now and then for 3 or 4 days, keeping the jar in a warm place by the fire; at the expiration of which time press the juice from the tomatas by rubbing them with a wooden spoon through a sieve, and boil it with mace, pepper, allspice, ginger and cloves, in the proportion of about 2 oz. in all to 1 quart of juice, a few blades of mace, 12 cloves, a spoonful of pounded ginger, and the remainder pepper and all- spice. In 3 months boil it again with fresh spice. Or :—Take 6 lbs. of tomatas, sprinkle them with salt ; let them remain for a day or two, then boil them until the skins will separate easily ; pour them into a colander, or coarse sieve, and press them through, leaving the skins behind; put into the liquor 1 handful of shalots, 1 pint of chili vinegar, 3 pint of wine, pepper, cloves, ginger, and allspice; boil them together until a third part has wasted ; then bottle it, closing the bottle very securely. It must be shaken before it is used. TOMATA SAUCE FOR WINTER USE. 761.—1 peck of tomatas, 6 onions sliced, 2 heads of celery, a dozen shalots, 1 oz. of cayenne pepper, 4 oz. of black pepper, 1 oz. of mace in powder. Slice them into a well-tinned sauce- pan, mixing the seasoning with them as they are cut up; boil, keeping them well stirred; when thoroughly soft, drain off the water, and rub through a hair sieve. Soil it again until 520 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar, XXVI. it is as thick as apple-sauce. Put it into bottles, and cork close. Put the bottles into a stewpan, fill it with cold water, let it boil for 20 minutes. Keep in a cool place. Examine the bottles occasionally, and if there is the least indication of a change turn it into the kettle again, boil, and scum it, keep- ing it well stirred from the bottom that it may not adhere, and put it into the bottles again. When required for use, warm what is wanted with a little gravy. It is as nice as when fresh done, and will be found excellent with calf’s head or brains, veal, beef, mutton, pork, or goose. An onion or a shalot, boiled in the gravy with which it is mixed, will be an improvement. CAMP KETCHUP. 762.—Take 2 quarts of old strong beer and 1 of white wine, add + lb. of anchovies, 3 oz. of shalots peeled, 4 oz. of mace, the same of nutmeg, 3 large races of ginger cut in slices; put all together over a moderate fire till one-third iswasted. The next day bottle it with the spice and the shalots. It will keep for many years. Or :—A pint of claret, the same quantity of ketchup, 4 oz. of anchovies, 1 oz. of fresh lemon-peel pared thin, 2 cloves of garlic minced fine, 4 0z. of allspice, the same of black and of red pepper, 1 drachm of celery-seed bruised, and 2 pint of pickle-liquor. Put these ingredients into a wide-mouthed bottle ; stop it close, shake it every day for a fortnight, and then strain it off. , SEVEN-YEARS KETCHUP. 763.—Take 2 quarts of the oldest strong beer, put to it 1 quart of red wine, # lb. of anchovies, 3 oz. of shalots peeled, % oz. of mace, the same of nutmegs, ¢ oz. of cloves, 3 large races of ginger cut in slices, and boil all together over a mo- derate fire till one-third is wasted. When quite cold put it into a large jar, covered up, and leave it there for a week or two until the sediment is wasted, and the clear liquor is per- fectly transparent ; then strain it through a fine hair sieve, taste it, and add to it a little of any essence of spice, oil, or vinegar, which you think may improve it, and, if the liquid be not perfectly clear, give it 1 smart boil: when cool, bottle it in very small bottles to prevent its frequent exposure to the air. * Cuar. XXVI. FAMILY SAUCES. | 521 It will improve by age, and may be carried on a voyage round the world. As may also Sauce ala Militaire, made thus:—Put into an earthen pot 6 shalots sliced, a clove of garlic split, 2 laurel-leaves, a handful of thyme, basil, and tarragon-leaves, 4 oz. of mustard-seed bruised, 1 teaspoonful of grated Seville orange-peel, } oz. of cloves, the same quantity of mace, 4 oz. of long pepper, 2 oz. of salt, the juice of a lemon, 6 spoonfuls of the strongest vinegar, and % pint of white wine. Stop the pot very closely, and put it into an oven, or upon hot ashes, for 24 hours, to allow the whole to infuse properly. Then allow it to settle, and strain it until it is quite clear: bottle it, and close the bottles tightly : a very small quantity will be sufficient, and it may be used with all sorts of meat, game, or fish. ARTIFICIAL SAUCES FOR FISH. 764.—Those most commonly used in England are soy and anchovy, merely mixed from the cruets into melted butter by each individual of the company ; the butter, when brought to table in a prepared state, should be made as follows :— For Anchovy Sauce, the foundation should be some of the fish stock or gravy which has been already made and kept in the house for future use. Take 2 or 3 anchovies, scrape, but do not wash them, and boil them along with a minced shalot in some of the gravy, until they are soft enough to be pounded toa paste. ‘Then strain the gravy and thicken it with the body of the fish, after having removed the heads, tails, and bones. When that is done, put it, for about + of an hour, in the stewpan along with a glass of red wine, a squeeze of lemon, and the necessary quantity of butter. The common mode is, to chop 3 anchovies, melt + lb. of butter in a teacupful of the water in which the fish is boiled, add a spoonful of vinegar and a little flour. Stir it well over the fire until it is quite thick. Or :—Not unfrequently 2 or 3 spoonfuls of the prepared essence of anchovy are put into the melted butter, seasoned with a little cayenne pepper. The savoury store sauces for fish, as prepared and sold in the shops, are all to a certain degree agreeable to some palates, but anchovy and soy seem the prevailing sort for fish. ‘The former, if purchased from the maker, cannot be counterfeited ; but soy is so often adulterated by the dealers, that the only 522 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar. XXVJ, sure way of getting it genuine is to procure it from the steward of some East India trader when she arrives in the docks. If — well corked, it will keep good for years; and the older,» perhaps, the better. There is certainly far less trouble, and probably more eco- nomy, in buying any of these sauces, than in making them at home; but for those ladies who choose to amuse themselves by having such preparations made “under their own eye,” we add a few receipts that may be found useful. STORE SAUCES. 765.—1. Take 2 wineglasses of port, 2 of walnut, and 4 of mushroom ketchup, 4 anchovies pounded, with 2 shalots, a tablespoonful of soy, and a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper. Boil all well together ; when cold, put it into bottles well corked ; it will keep good for more than a twelvemonth. 2. Take 4 oz. of mace, 1 oz. each of cloves, ginger, and allspice, 1 lb. of anchovies, a bottle of either white or red wine, 4 pint of vinegar, a couple of shalots, and a clove of garlic chopped, and a stick of scraped horseradish, together with a bundle of pot-herbs. Let all simmer over a slow fire till the anchovies are dissolved ; then strain the liquor, bottle it when cold, and when wanted for use add a tablespoonful of the sauce to ¢ lb. of melted butter. 3. Thicken + lb. of butter with flour, and brown it; then put to it 1 Ib. of the best anchovies cut small, 6 blades of pounded mace, 10 cloves, 40 berries of black pepper and allspice, a few small onions, a faggot of sweet herbs (namely, savory, thyme, basil, and knotted marjoram), and a little parsley and sliced horseradish; on these pour 4 pint of the best sherry and 1% pint of strong gravy. Simmer all gently for 20 minutes; then strain it through a sieve, and bottle it for use. The way of using it is, to boil some of it in the butter while melting. ; 4. Put into a saucepan a pint of fine port wine, a gill of mountain, = pint of fine walnut ketchup, 12 anchovies and the liquor that belongs to them, a gill of walnut pickle, the rind and juice of a large lemon, 4 or 5 shalots, some cayenne to taste, 8 oz. of scraped horseradish, 3 blades of mace, and 2 teaspoonfuls of made mustard: boil it all gently till the rawness goes off; then put it into small bottles for use. Cork them very close, and seal the top. > “Quar. XXVI. © FAMILY SAUCES. © 523 _ -§. Chop 24 anchovies, not washed, and 10 shalots, and ‘serape 3 spoonfuls of horseradish ; which, with 10 blades of mace, 12 cloves, 2 sliced lemons, + pint of anchovy liquor, a quart of hock or Rhenish wine, and a pint of water, boil to a quart; then strain off; and when cold, add 3 large spoon- fuls of walnut ketchup. All or any of these will be found excellent for family use ; as, when added to any common sauce for fish, or even to plain melted butter, a moderate quantity will impart to it a very fine flavour, and in many cases they may be used also for meat, if eaten cold. Pontae Ketchup is for this purpose both very simple and very good. Put ripe elderberries, picked from the stalk, into a stone jar, with as much strong vinegar as will cover them. Bake with the bread ; and, while hot, strain. Boil the liquor with a sufficient quantity of cloves, mace, peppercorns, and shalots, to give it a fine flavour. When that is obtained, put in + lb. of the finest anchovies to every quart of liquor ; stir and boil only until dissolved. When cold, put it into pint bottles, and tie double bladders over each cork. 'The same method should be observed for preserving all ketchups. An excellent and not common Pickle, called ‘ Salade,”’ may be made thus :—Fill a pint stone jar with equal quantities of onions, cucumbers, and sour apples, all cut into very thin slices, shaking in, as you go on, 1 teaspoonful of salt and three parts of a teaspoonful of cayenne. Pour in a wineglass of soy, the same of white wine, and fill up the jar with vinegar. It will be fit for use the same day. Quin’s Sauce is also excellent. 4 pint of common mush- room-ketchup, 4 pint of walnut-liquor, 8 anchovies, 8 cloves of garlic, 4 bruised and 4 whole, 3 teaspoonfuls of cayenne pepper, 3 of mushroom-powder, all boiled together for 5 minutes, and bottled when cold. UNIVERSAL SAUCES. 766.—Any of the following will be found good :—1. 4 oz. each of black pepper and pounded allspice, 1 oz. of salt, 4 oz. of minced shalot, 1 pint of mushroom ketchup, a tablespoonful _ of port wine, and a teaspoonful of chili vinegar. Set the bottle for 24 hours in a heat of about 90° of Fahrenheit ; let it stand for a week, then strain it off and bottle it. A spoonful mixed with gravy is excellent for cutlets. 524 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXYVII. 2. A wineglass each of mushroom and walnut ketchup, port — wine, lemon-pickle, and chili vinegar, with 3a glass of essence of anchovy. Put all together into a bottle, and shake it well; it will be ready for immediate use, and greatly i improve any sauce that needs pungency. 3. Instead of anchovy, put the same quantity of soy, either with or without shalot or garlic vinegar in lieu of lemon- pickle. 4, Mix 2 spoonfuls of Indian soy with } pint of vinegar, half + oz. of cayenne pepper, and a small quantity of garlic. Let the whole stand for some time in bottle. It will be found an excellent relish for fish or cold meat. ° CHAPTER XXVII. CAKES, BUNS, AND GINGERBREAD. - a Oe CAKES. 767.— Observations—In making cakes it is indispensably necessary that all the ingredients should be heated before they are mixed together ; for which purpose everything should be prepared for an hour or two previously to their being wanted, and placed near the fire or upon a stove—the flour thoroughly dried and warmed; the currants, sugar, carraway-seed, and anything else required, heated in the same way; butter and eggs should be beaten in basins fitged into kettles or pans of warm water, which will give them the requisite degree of temperature... Without these precautions, cakes will be hea and the best materials, with the greatest pains, will fail to produce the desired results. The following observations should also be strictly attended 1O-— Currants should be very nicely washed, dried in a cloth, and then set before the fire. Before they are to be used, a dust of dry flour should be thrown among them, and a shake given to them, which causes the cakes to be lighter. . Eggs should be very long beaten, whites and yolks apart, and always strained. Sugar should be pounded in a mortar or rubbed to a powder Cuap. XXVII. CAKES. 525 on a clean board, and sifted through a very fine hair or lawn sieve. Lemon-peel should be pared very thin, and, with a little sugar, beaten in a marble mortar to a paste; and then mixed with a little wine or cream, so as to divide easily among the other ingredients. ‘The pans should be of earthenware; nor should eggs or batter and sugar be beaten in tins, as the cold- ness of the metal will prevent them from becoming light. Use the best superfine flour ; for if the flour be of inferior quality the cakes will be heavy, ill-coloured, and unfit to eat ; but if a little potato-flour be added, it will improve their lightness. Cakes are frequently rendered hard, heavy, and uneatable, by misplaced economy in eggs and butter, or. for want of a due seasoning in spice and sugar. After all the articles are put into the pan, they should be thoroughly and long beaten, as the lightness of the cake de- pends much on their being well incorporated. Unless you are provided with proper utensils as well as materials, the difficulty of making cakes will be so great as in most instances to be a failure. Accuracy in proportioning the ingredients is also indispensable ; and therefore scales, weights, and measures, down to the smallest quantity, are of the utmost importance. fron ovens are desirable, as well for their economy of fuel as for the short time in which they can be heated, and on account of the celerity and convenience with which one person may prepare large quantities of small pastry, and bake it also. The most vigilant care and attention are necessary in order to secure success in the baking of delicate pastry or cakes; for however well they may have been prepared, if not equally well baked, the result will be unsatisfactory ; we there- fore recommend a newly- invented moveable oven, made of iron, as represented in the cut; it is manufac- tured in Paris, but will no doubt be soon copied in London. ‘The hearth, at a, is placed underneath; and the smoke of a charcoal fire 526 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXVII. escapes through a flue at the back, after heating the oven, 6, by means of a flue passing round it. It also may be made to act as a stove for many other purposes.* The heat of the oven is of great importance, especially for large cakes. If not lighted long enough to have a body of heat, or if it is become slack, the cake will be heavy. If not pretty quick, the batter will not rise. Should you fear i catching by being too quick, put some paper over the cake to prevent its being burnt. To know when it is soaked, take a broad-bladed knife that is very bright, and plunge it into the very centre; draw it instantly out, and if the least stickiness adheres, put the cake immediately in again, and shut up the oven. If the heat should be sufficient to raise, but not to soak it, let fresh fuel be quickly put in, and the cakes kept hot until the oven is fit to finish the soaking; but those who are em- ployed ought to be particularly careful that no mistake occurs from negligence when large cakes are to be baked. Bread and cakes wetted with milk eat best when new, but | become stale sooner than others. Cakes kept in drawers or wooden boxes have a disagreeable taste. Earthen pans and covers, or tin boxes, preserve them best ; but in making large cakes of any kind, which are to be baked in hoops, use those of wood. Cakes made with yeast should always be eaten fresh. © PLUM-CAKES. 768.—Mix thoroughly + peck of fine flour, well dried, with 1 lb. of dry and sifted loaf-sugar, 3 Ibs. of currants washed and very dry, 4 lb. of raisins stoned and chopped, 4 oz. each of mace, cloves, and cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, the peel of a lemon cut as fine as possible, and 3 lb. of almonds blanched and beaten with orange-flower water. Melt 2 lbs. of butter in 1} pint of cream, but not hot; put to it 1 pint of sweet wine, a glass of brandy, and another of rose-water, with the whites and yolks of 12 eggs beaten apart, and # pint of good yeast. Strain this liquor by degrees into the dry ingredients, beating them together a full hour; then butter the hoop or pan, and bake it in a moderate oven for at least 4 hours. As you put in the batter, throw in plenty of citron, lemon, and orange candy. « ¢La Cuisiniére de la Campagne,’ p. 26. # Cuap. XXVIII. CAKES. 527 If you ice the cake, when it is nearly cold pour the icing over, and return it to the oven, where it should be left all night, or until it becomes cold; but if the oven be warm, keep it near the mouth, and the door open, lest the colour be spoiled; or the icing it may be left until the next morning. Or :—Take 2 Ths. of dried flour, the same of currants, si lb. of pounded sugar, lemon and citron peel sliced ; mix these well together ; beat 10 eggs, yolks and whites separately ; ; then melt 3 Ib, of butter and 1 pint of cream; when lukewarm, put to % pint of ale-yeast, nearly + pint of sweet wine, and the eggs ; i strain the liquid to the dry ingredients, beat them well, and add of cloves, mace, cinnamon, “and nutmeg, all together 1 oz.; butter the pan, and put it into a quick oven; 3 “hours will bake it if the oven be of baker’s heat, but it will be better if baked somewhat longer at a more moderate temperature. An excellent Plum-cake.—Beat 1 lb. of fresh butter with a strong wooden fork until it resembles cream; add 1 lb. of sifted sugar, and mix them very completely; have ready the whites of 10 eggs beaten, and pour them into the butter and sugar; then add the yolks of 18 eggs, also well beaten, and beat them all up for 10 minutes. Take 1 lb. of flour, 2 oz. of pounded and sifted spices (viz. cloves, mace, cinnamon, nut- meg, and allspice), and mix them by degrees with the other ingredients; then beat the whole 10 minutes longer, and when the oven is ready add 1 Ib. of currants, 4 oz. of sliced almonds, 4 lb. of raisins stoned and chopped, and a large glass of brandy. Bake the cake in a hot oven. When sufficiently baked, let the oven cool, and afterwards put in the cake, and allow it to remain for several hours to dry. Very good common Plum-cakes.—Mix 5 oz. of butter in 3 Ibs. of dry flour and 5 oz. of fine Lisbon sugar ; add 6 oz. of currants washed and dried, and some pimento finely powdered. Put 3 spoonfuls of yeast into a pint of new milk warmed, and mix into a light dough with the above. Make it into 12 cakes, and bake on a floured tin 4 an hour. Plum-cakes require less butter and eggs for having yeast, and eat equally light and rich. Ifthe leaven be only of flour, milk and water, and yeast, it becomes more tough, and is less easily divided, than if the butter be first put with those ingre- dients, and the dough afterwards set to rise by the fire. Little Plum-cakes to keep long.—Dry 1 lb. of flour, and 528 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Czar. XXVIII. mix with 6 oz. of finely-pounded sugar; beat 6 oz. of butter a cream, and add to 3 eggs, well beaten, 4 lb. of currants washed and nicely dried, and the flour and sugar; beat all for some time, then dredge flour on tin plates, and drop the batter on them the size of a walnut. If properly mixed, it will be a stiff paste. Bake in Porisk oven. . BRIDE-CAKE. 769.—Wash 2% Ibs. of fresh butter in plain water first, and then in rose-water ; beat the butter to a cream; beat 20 eggs, yolks and whites separately, $ an hour each. Have ready 23 lbs. of the finest flour, well dried and kept hot, likewise 1% lb. of sugar pounded and sifted, 1 oz. of spice in fine powder, 3 lbs. of currants nicely cleaned and dry, 4 lb. of almonds blanched, and 2 lb. of sweetmeats cut, not too thin. Let all be kept by the fire, mix all the dry ingredients, pour the eggs strained to the butter, but beat the whites of the eggs to a strong froth; mix } pint of sweet wine with the same quantity of brandy, pour it to the butter and eggs, mix well, then have all the dry things put in by degrees; beat them very thoroughly—you can hardly do it too much. Having 4 lb. of stoned jar-raisins chopped as fine as possible, mix them carefully, so that there should be no lump, and add a teacupful of orange-flower water; beat the ingredients to- gether a full hour at least. Have a hoop well buttered; take ~-a white paper, doubled and buttered, and put in the pan round the edge; do not fill it more than three parts with batter, as space should be allowed for rising. Bake in a quick oven. It will require full 3 hours. In making cakes of a larger size, put at the rate of 8 eggs to every pound of flour, and other ingredients in the same proportion. The cake must be covered with an icing. QUEEN-CAKE. hi 770.—Mix 1 Ib. of dried flour, the same of sifted sugar and of washed currants. Wash 1 lb. of butter in rose-water, beat it well, then mix with it 8 eggs, yolks and whites beaten sepa- rately, and put in the dry ingredients by degrees; beat the whole an hour; butter little tins, teacups, or saucers, filling them only half full. Sift a little fine sugar over just as you put them into the oven. Or : Beat 8 oz. of butter, and mix with 2 well-beaten eggs strained; mix 8 oz. of dried flour, and the same of lump- * Cap. XXVIL. CAKES. 529 sugar, and the grated rind of a lemon; then put the together, and beat full 3 an hour with a Ries spoon. er small pattypans, half fill, and bake 20 minutes in a quick oven. The same materials made into a paste, then rolled out into small round cakes, and baked, make vry nice tea-cakes. DIET BREAD. 771.—To + lb. of sifted sugar put 4 eggs; beat them to- gether for an hour; then add ¢ lb. of flour dried and sifted, with the juice of } a lemon aati the grated rind of a whole one. Bake in a slow oven. Or :—Boil 1 lb. of loaf-sugar in 4 pint of water; whisk it with 8 eggs until cold; then stir in 1 Ib. of fine flour, and kee gating until it is put into the oven, which, if it be quick, will bake it in an hour. Fo Or Beat up separately the yolks and whites of 4 eggs for + of an hour; then sift into both + lb. of grated sugar ; beat it well up with the eggs, and at the whole gradually but effectually into as much flour as will make it of a proper thickness; season it slightly with cinnamon, and bake it in a quick oven. SEE D-CAKES. 772.—Beat 1 lb. of butter to a cream, adding, gradually, t lb. of sifted sugar, beating both together. Have ready the . . yolks of 18 eggs, and the whites of 10, beaten separately ; mix in thegepses first and then the yolks, and beat the whole for 10 minutes; add 2 grated nutmegs, 13 lb. of flour, and mix them very gradually with the other ingredients. When the oven is ready, beat in 3 oz. of picked carraway-seed. A cheap Seed-cake.—Mix t peck of flour with ef lb. of sugar, + oz. of allspice, and a little ginger; melt 2 Ib. of butter with 4 pint of milk; when just warm, put to it pint of yeast, fad, work up to a ‘good dough. Let it stand Before the fire a few minutes before it goes to the oven; add seeds or currants; bake 14 hour. Seed-cake without Butter.—Dry and warm 138 oz. of flour and 1 Ib. of loaf-sugar pounded finely, 4 spoonfuls of warm water, 4 of brandy, 1 of orange-flower water, and 2 oz. of carraway-seed ; mix all together, then beat up 12 eggs with 4 the whites, add them to the cake, beat the whole well, and bake it 2 hours. 2A - 530 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar. XXVIB A other.—Mix 13 lb. of flour, and 1 Ib. of common lump- “sugar, 8 egos beaten ‘scparally, 1 oz. of seeds, 2 spoonfuls ‘id yeast, and the same of milk and water. A light Seed-eake-—Take the yolks of 6 eggs and the whites of 3, beat them well for®4 an hour; then put in 6 oz. of pow- dered loaf-sugar, mix it well with the eggs, add gradually 7 oz. of flour and a few carraway-seeds; stir the whole well together, and put it into a pan or dish for baking, If the oven is hot, $ an hour will bake it. The moment it is taken out of the oven turn it out of the mould, and let it lie upside down until quite cold. Great care should be taken in the baking. Plain Cake.—A lbs. of flour, 2 Ibs. of currants, and + Ib. of butter, with clove, carraway, and coriander seeds #0 the taste, together with lemon-peel grated ; wet it with milk and % pint of yeast. Or :—Beat 1 lb. of butter to a cream with the hand, and add 1 lb. of brown sugar, which beat in for 10 minutes longer ; then add 8 eggs, 2 at a time, beating them as they are put in until the whole is very smooth; then stir in 1¢ lb. of flour, a little at a time, till it is well mixed, season with a little nut- meg, and add 1 lb. of currants the last thing, together with citron and orange peel cut into pieces. Put the ingredients into. a shape, and bake it for 2 hours. An excellent Cake.—Rub 2 lbs. of dry fine flour with 1 Ib. of butter washed in plain, and afterwards in rose-water ; mix it with 3 spoonfuls of yeast in a little warm milk and water. Set it to rise 14 hour before the fire; then beat into it 2 Ibs. of currants, 1 lb. of sugar sifted, 4 oz. of almonds, 6 oz. of stoned raisins chopped fine, + a nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, and a few cloves, the peel of a lemon chopped as fine as pos- sible, a glass of wine, the same of brandy, 12 yolks and. whites of eggs beaten separately ; add orange, citron, and lemon. Beat the whole for 4 an hour. Bake in a quick oven. Scotch Seed-cake.—Take 14 dozen of eggs, keep out the whites of 6 for glazing ; take 14 lb. of fine sugar, beat the sugar and eggs until they are thick and white; take 12 lb. of sweet butter, and beat it well to cream; take ¢ oz. of cinna- mon, the same of nutmeg and cloves, 4 oz. of cman 14 lb. of citron, 1 lb. of orange-peel, 1 lb. of almonds blanched; cut them small. Put 2 lbs. of flour among the Cap. XXVII. CAKES. 531 egos, add the beaten butter and a gill of brandy ; mix all well together ; put it into the frame, and bake it. rye FAMILY BREAD-CAKE. 773.—Take the quantity of a quartern loaf from the dough when making white bread, and knead well into it 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of Lisbon sugar, and 8 oz. of currants. Warm the butter in a teacupful of good milk. By the addition of | oz. of butter or sugar, or an egg or two, you may make the cake richer. A teacupful of raw cream improves it much. Dake it in a pan; it will remain good for several days; and if carraways be substituted for currants, it may be eaten at tea with butter. SAVOY CAKE. 774.—Break 10 very fresh eggs into a pan (a round-bot- tomed biscuit pan is best for the purpose) with 1 Ib. of sifted loaf-sugar ; set the pan in warm water and whisk very briskly for ¢ of an hour, or until the batter is quite thick and warm take it out of the water and whisk until cold; stir in as lightly as possible to thoroughly mix it, 1 Ib. of flour; flavour with essence of lemon, or the rind of a lemon rubbed on sugar; pour into the mould and bake. Prepare the mould as follows :—Melt a little fresh butter, take off the scum, and pour: it off the dregs; let it cool, and with a brush (a painter’s small brush is very good for the purpose) rub it well, so that.it looks creamy, into all the points of the mould, and dust it with sugar and flour, mixed in equal quantities, sufficient to adhere to the batter. The same preparation is used for Sponge Cakes, baking them of course in proper moulds. Or :—Take 8 eggs, 4 the whites, 2b. of lump-sugar, 4 lb. of flour, ¢ pint of water, the peel of a lemon; mix as follows :— Over night pare a good-sized lemon thin, and put the peel into the water ; when about to make the cake, put the sugar into a saucepan, pour the water and lemon-peel to it, and let it stand by the fire to get hot. Break the eggs into a deep earthen vessel that has been made quite hot; whisk the eggs for a few minutes with a whisk that has been well soaked in water; make the sugar and water boil up, and pour it boiling hot over the eggs ; continue to whisk them briskly for about 4 of an hour, or till they become quite thick and white, which Z2A2 532 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXVIL is a pout: of their lightness. Have the flour well dried, and quite warm from the fire; just stir it lightly in, put the cake into moulds, and bake them immediately in a moderately hot oven. Cake Moulds. VIENNA CAKE—E. R. 775.—1 lb. of flour, the same quantity of butter and of sifted loaf-sugar, and the yolks of 14 eggs, the whole to be beaten together for ¢ of an hour; then beat the whites of the eggs to a froth; mix the greater part by degrees to the paste, and keep beating till the whole is soft and light. Cut pieces’ of paper the size and shape of the dish to be used, spread the paste upon them, put it into the oven, and let it bake, but not enough to be brown; then spread each with jam made of fruit, and a little jelly, and pile one upon the other. Let it remain until quite cold, and, some hours afterwards, add a fresh quantity of sugar to the whites of eggs; pour it over the top, and ornament it with preserved orange and lemon chips, coloured sugar-plums, &c., and let it stand in a cool oven to dry. “Os :—Take 4 layers of fine sponge-cake, not quite 1 inch thick; or the sponge-mixing may be baked at once ina round shape, about 6 or 8 inches in diameter, and afterwards divided into slices. Put between each layer of cake one of preserves, each of a different sort, with strawberries at the top; and cover the whole cake, top and sides, with a thick icing of sugar, similar to that used in bridecake, tinted red, and fla- voured with essence of Jemon, rose, or vanilla. ‘The icing must be dried, but the cake must not be again put into the oven. RICE-CAKE. 776.—Take 9 0z. of flour, dry it well; 9 oz. of ground rice, 20 oz. of sugar pounded very fine and sifted, and 12 eggs. Cuap. XXVII. CAKES. 533 Beat the eggs and sugar well together; then add the flour and the rice, a spoonful at a time until all is used—beating at the same time for {of an hour. Before the cake goes into the oven, add the peel of a whole lemon grated, then put in 4 the juice, and send it to the oven; 40 minutes will bake it. Or :—1 lb. of ground rice, | lb. of lump-sugar sifted, 8 egos, yolks and whites, well beaten all together, the rind of a lemon grated, and the juice of one. When all the ingredients are mixed, beat them % an hour longer, then put it intoa well-buttered tin; 14 hour will bake it. Or :—Mlix 10 oz. of ground rice, 3 oz. of flour, 8 oz. of pounded sugar ; then sift by degrees into 8 yolks and 6 whites of eggs, and the peel of a lemon shred so fine that it is quite mashed ; mix the whole well in a tin stewpan over a very slow fire with a whisk, then put it immediately into the oven in the same, and bake 40 minutes. Or :—Take 4 lb. of clarified butter, 8 eggs well beaten, leaving out the whites of 2, ¢ lb. of pounded sugar, and the grated peel of a lemon; mix these well together; then add ground rice and dried flour, $ lb. of each; currants and can- died peel may be added when approved. WAFERS.—E. RB. 777.—Take fine flour, dried and sifted, make it into a smooth thin batter with very good milk, ora little cream and water ; add about as much white wine as will make it thick enough for pancakes, sweeten it with a little loaf-sugar, and flavour with beaten cinnamon. When thus prepared, have the wafer- irons made ready by being heated over a charcoal fire; rub the irons with a piece of linen cloth dipped in butter, then pour a spoonful of the batter upon them, and close them almost immediately ; turn them upon the fire, pare the edges with a knife, as some of the batter will ooze out. A short time will bake them when the irons are properly heated. ‘The wafers must be curled round whilst warm. Sugar-wafers, whieh are much in use throughout France and Spain for eau-sucrée, are made by whisking white sugar into a froth with the white of eggs and isinglass, and then baking it as above. PROVINCIAL CAKES. 778.—Shrewsbury.—Sift 1 Ib. of sugar, some pounded cin- namon, and a nutmeg grated, into 3 lbs. of flour, the finest 534 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Car. XXVII. sort; add a little rose-water to 3 eggs well beaten, and mix these with the flour, &c.; then pour into it as much butter . melted as will make it a good thickness to roll out. Mould it well, roll thin, and cut it into such shapes as you hike. Marlborough.—Beat 8 eggs and 1 lb. of pounded sugar ? of an hour; then by degrees mix in 12 oz. of fine flour well dried ; add 2 oz. of carraway-seeds, and bake in soup-plates or tin pans in a brisk oven. Tunbridge.—Mix % lb. of flour with 2 oz. of butter and + Ib. of sugar, to which add 1 or 2 oz. of carraway-seeds, and make it into a stiff paste with a little water; cut it into round cakes, prick them with a fork, and bake them upon floured tins. Banbury—Are made without seeds, and chiefly composed of mincemeat baked for about 3 an hour in a rich paste, then cut into square or oblong pieces, and generally eaten cold. Yorkshire-—To 1 quart of lukewarm milk add # pint of good ale yeast, and mix them well together with enough flour to make a thick batter; let it stand ina warm place till it rises as high as it can; then rub 4 lb. of butter into some flour, and mix with it 4 eggs; beat all well together, add sufficient flour to make it into dough, and let it stand for 4 an hour; then work it lightly up and make into buns, put them on tins in a slow oven, cover them with a light cloth, and toast them with butter. BUTTER CAKES.—E. RB. 779.—To 4 lb. of butter add the same quantity of brown sugar, 3 eggs, the rind of 2 lemons, + oz. of pounded cinna- mon, and % the quantity of powdered ginger; work into it as much flour as will make it a paste; cut it into shapes or leave it whole, and strew over the top some pounded almonds and candied orange-peel. Bake in a slow oven. MACAROONS. 780.—Blanch 4 oz. of almonds, and pound with 4 spoonfuls of orange-flower water; whisk the whites of 4 eggs to a froth, then mix it, and 1 lb. of sugar sifted, with the almonds to a paste; and, laying a sheet of wafer-paper on a tin, put it on in different little cakes, the shape of macaroons. Or :—Beat the whites of 4 eggs into a strong froth, add to it the juice of 2 limes or lemons, and ¢ lb. of pounded sugar; Cuap. XXVII. CAKES. 535 mix them up well together, then add 2 more whites of eggs beaten, another ¢ lb. of sugar, 1 lb. of almonds sliced, and } Ib. of flour, which last must be just sprinkled over the other ingredients after they have been well mixed together, which will take nearly an hour. Take up a sufficient quantity of the mixture ina spoon, drop it on paper sprinkled with flour, and bake on tins in a slow oven for 2 hours. Or :—To 1 |b. of blanched sweet almonds add 2 oz. of bitter almonds, with the juice of 1 lemon and a glass of ratafia. ALMOND CAKES —E. R. 781.—Beat 1 lb. of almonds very fine with rose-water, mix in 3 lb. of sifted sugar, make them into shapes, put them be- fore the fire to dry on one side, thenturn them. When dry on both sides, take some sifted sugar and as much white of egg as will just wet it; beat it with a spoon; as it grows white put in a little more egg, till it is thin enough to ice the cakes : then ice one side, dry it before the fire, and be sure it is quite dry before icing the other side. The flavour of the almond is often given to pastry by bay-leaves and the essence of fruit- kernels, but pounded bitter almonds are safer and better for the purpose. Ratafia Cakes are made in the same manner, but substitute ratafia-brandy for rose-water, and use ¢ lb. of bitter instead of the same quantity of sweet almonds; make them rather smaller, JUMBLES. 782.—To 17 Ib. of butter, well creamed, put 1 Ib. of sugar and 3 eggs beaten well together, 14 lb. of sifted flour, and 2 spoonfuls of rose-water ; mix these well together, and with a fork drop them on a tin, and bake in a quick oven. Or :—Take + lb. of flour, the same weight of loaf-sugar grated, 2 oz. of butter rubbed into the flour, 1 egg, and a dessertspoonful of ratafia-brandy or orange-flower water ; make it up into a paste; if more moisture is required, add a spoon- ful of cream; drop it on tins with a fork. Rout Drops.—Mix 2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 1 Ib. of sugar, 1 lb. of currants clean and dry; then wet into a stiff paste, with 2 eggs, a large spoonful of orange-flower water, the same each of rose-water, sweet wine, and brandy; drop on a tin plate floured. A very short time’bakes them. 536 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXVILI. PASSOVER CAKES. 783.—Make a stiff paste with biscuit-powder, milk, and water; add a little butter, the yolk of an egg, and a ‘Tittle white sugar. Cut into pieces, mould with the hand, and bake in a brisk oven: they should not be too thin. Without butter.—Warm ¢ pint of water, flavoured with a little salt; mix 4 beat ros with 4 lb. of Hebrew or “* matso- flour,” and a couple of lumps of white sugar with a teacupful of milk; mix all together, and bake in a tin. . SCOTCH RECEIPT FOR SHORT BREAD.—E. R. 784.—To 4 lbs. of flour take 2 of butter, quite fresh and without salt, + lb. of moist sugar, ¢ lb. of citron, and the same of almonds, the latter blanched, and_all cut small. Mix the sugar and fruit well with the flour; then work it up with the butter, cold, till it is smooth and compact, but it will take a long time ; divide into 4’ or more pieces, and roll out each piece into an oblong cake, having previously floured the table well. Prick the top with a steel fork, strew some orange and citron cut thin, and some large carraway-comfits, press them in with the roller, then pinch round the edges, put the cakes in floured tins; bake for 20 minutes. If the cake rise after the pressing of the finger, it is sufficiently done. Or :—One lb. each of butter and sifted sugar, 2 lbs. of flour, 8 oz. of sweet and 4 oz. of bitter almonds, a small piece of cin- namon, all pounded, and a glass of brandy. Soften the butter before the fire, then rub in the flour, and make it into a paste ; roll it out 4 inch thick, and bake it on a tin in a slow oven, as it should be of a pale colour. A GOOD POUND-CAKE. 785.—Beat 1 lb. of butter to a cream, and mix with it the whites and yolks of 8 eggs beaten apart. Have ready, warm by the fire, 1 Ib. of flour, and the same of sifted sugar ; mix them and a few cloves, a little nutmeg and cinnamon, in fine powder together; then by degrees work the dry ingredients into the butter and eggs. When well beaten, add a glass of wine and some carraways. It must be beaten a full hour. Butter a pan, and bake it an hour in a quick oven. The above proportions, leaving out 4 oz. of the butter, and the same of sugar, make a less luscious cake, and to most tastes a more pleasant one. ~ Cuap. XXVII. CAKES. 537 LEMON CAKE. 786.—Beat 6 eggs, the yolks and whites separately, till in a solid froth; add to the yolks the grated rind of a fine lemon and 6 oz. of sugar dried and sifted; beat this + of an hour; shake in with the left hand 6 oz. of dried flour; then add the whites of the eggs and the juice of the lemon ; when these are well beaten in, put it immediately into tins, and bake it about an hour in a moderately hot oven. SODA-CAKE—E. R. 787.—1 lb. of flour, 1 drachm of soda, 4 Ib. of sugar, 4 Ib. of currants, and ¢ lb. of butter. Mix the soda with the flour, then rub in the butter, after which add the sugar and the currants, and then a pint of milk. Put it into the oven imme- diately. A variety may be given by substituting + lb. of lemon, orange, and citron, candied, and 1 oz. of pounded sweet almonds, for the currants ; but in that case the cake will require rather more soda. Or :—A good piain one can be made with 2 lbs. of flour, & oz. of butter or dripping, 8 oz. of sugar, 1 pint of milk, with 3 or 4 eggs, anda teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. Carbonate of soda should be very sparingly used in light cakes, and then it ought to be combined with a little sour milk, or acid, to produce carbonic gas, in order to make them porous. Mix the carbonate of soda intimately with the flour or sugar, then mix them with the other ingredients, and make the whole into a dough with the milk, or milk and eggs well beaten; put it into a well-buttered tin or hoop, and bake it in a cool oven about 3 hours. If currants are added, it will take fully that time. A. good plan to ensure the sides and bottom from being burnt is to tie a piece of paper folded in 3 or 4 folds round the sides, and put the tin or hoop on a flat baking tin, with a little saw- dust or fine ashes between. . FRENCH CAKES. 788.—Bolas d’ Amor.—1} |b. of flour, 1 small teacupful of yeast, 4 pint of milk warmed, 1 Jb. of butter, and 4 eggs. Make a hole in the flour, and pour into it the milk, eggs, and yeast; mix them all well together; beat the dough, adding the buttér by degrees. Let it stand for 1 hour to rise; then take 4 Ib. of sifted sugar, and mix it well in with the dough; ZA3 538 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cunap. XXVII. butter the cups or pans, put in the dough, and ornament the top with candied orange or lemon peel. Les Brioches are, in France, more used as°a breakfast- bread than as cakes, but in England they are only to be had, when ordered, in the shops of some foreign pastry-cooks ; which is to be regretted, as they are considered a great deli- cacy when made in ca of twists or other fancy shapes, and eaten either hot or cold. Take any quantity of the brioche paste (as at No. 540); knead it over-night, and cover it in a warm place, to allow it to rise; then, at a convenient hour for breakfast, knead it again, and if not sufficiently risen, add an egg and a little more yeast, make it into shapes, and bake them for 2 to 1 hour, according to their size. Frangipane is a French paste, made with 2 or 3 eggs put into a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful of flour, moistened with a little milk, and placed on the fire for about 10 minutes; taking care to stir the materials continually, to prevent them from sticking to the pan. ‘The substance may either be used as a paste for tartlets, or eaten as cakes, if made with sugar and macaroons. La Galette is in great favour among the Parisians, who usually eat it with sweetmeats, but vary it in point of richness by the greater or less quantity of cream and butter employed in making it up. It is thus made:— Take 1 lb. each of butter and flour, a little salt, and 2 eges; knead the whole together into a paste, roll it to not more than an inch in thickness, and make it the size of a dessert-plate. Then put it into the oven for ¢ of an hour; take it out; beat up 2 eggs with a little cream and some salt, pour it over the cake, and return it to the oven’ to bake for another ¢ of an hour; or, if you please, ornament the back with candied citron. SPANISH CAKES. 789.—Put 12 eggs (cleared of the “ trails’) into a large chocolate-pot, and mill them to a froth. Mix by degrees 2 lb. of double-refined sugar, 1 lb. of flour dried, and 4 lb. of almonds beaten to a paste with orange-flower water: to which add 4 spoonfuls of rose-water, a glass of mountain wine, and 4 oz. of pounded cinnamon. When all the ingredients are in the pot, mill them ¢of an hour. Butter a pan, and bakein a slow oven. Cuap. XXVII. CAKES. 539 Or :—Mix 1 lb. of fine dried flour with the same of sifted loaf-sugar; rub into it 1 lb. of fresh butter till it resembles crumbled bread: then add 2 spoonfuls of rose-water, 2 of white wine, and 10 eggs; whisk it well, and add 8 oz. of currants. Butter small tin pans and half fill. IRISH CAKE. 790.—Take 1 lb. of butter beaten to a cream, 2 lb. of sugar, sifted and dried, 9 eggs, the yolks and whites beaten sepa- rately, ¢ lb. of almonds blanched and sliced, 1} Ib. of currants picked and dried, the same weight of flour also dried. When the butter has been worked with the hand to a cream, sift in the sugar, which should be quite hot; when mixed pour in the yolks of eggs, then add the whites; work it $ an hour, then add the flour by degrees; when thoroughly mixed, add a very small teacupful of brandy. The currants and almonds, with 4 lb. of lemon or citron peel, should be added just before the cakes are placed in the oven, which should be hot. ‘The cake should be beaten an hour; the hand should be kept moving the same way, and not taken out. ISLE OF WIGHT CRACKNELS. 791.—Mix with a quart of flour 4 a nutmeg grated, the yolks of 4 eggs beaten, with 4 spoonfuls of rose-water, into a stiff paste, with cold water; then roll in 1 lb. of butter, and make them into a cracknel shape; put them into a kettle of boiling water, and boil them till they swim; then take them out and put them into cold water; when hardened, lay them out to dry, and bake them on tin plates. KRINGLES. 792.—Beat well the yolks of 8 and whites of 2 eggs, and mix with 4 oz. of butter just warmed, and with this knead 1 lb. of flour and 4 oz. of sugar to a paste. Roll into thick biscuits ; prick them, and bake on tin plates. RUSKS. 793.—Beat 7 eggs well, and mix with $ pint of new milk, in which have been melted 4 oz. of butter; add to it ¢ pint of yeast and 3 oz. of sugar, and put them, by degrees, into as much flour as will make a very light paste, rather like a batter, and let it rise before the fire 4 an hour; then add some more flour to make it a little stiffer, but not stiff. Work it 540 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXVII. well, and divide it into small loaves or cakes, about 5 or 6 inches wide, and flatten them. When baked, and cold, slice them the thickness of rusks, and put them in the oven to brown a little. The cakes, when first baked, eat deliciously, if buttered for tea; or, made with carraways, to eat cold. BENTON TEA-CAKES, 794.—Mix a paste of flour, a little bit of butter, and milk ; roll as thin as possible, and bake on a back-stone over the fire, or on a hot hearth. Another sort as Biscuits.—Rub into 1 1b. of flour 6 oz. of butter and 3 large spoonfuls of yeast, and make it into a paste with a sufficient quantity of new milk; make into biscuits, and prick them with a clean fork. Or :—Melt 6 or 7 oz. of butter, with a sufficiency of new milk warmed to make 7 Ibs. of flour into a stiff paste; roll thin and make into biscuits. COFFEE-CAKES. 795.—Take 1 lb. of flour, $+ Ib. of butter, the same of pounded sugar, 1 egg, and 1 oz. of carraway-seeds; mix the whole with warm milk and a tablespoonful of rose-water ; roll it out thin, and cut it into cakes with the top of a wineglass, and bake on tins. wee @ see Bos © U.Daiis. 796.—Those of the common sort are made in various ways. For a large quantity, beat up 8 eggs during nearly 4 an hour; then put in 1 lb. of white powdered sugar, with the grated peel of a lemon, and whisk that again for the same time, or until it appears well mixed; after which make it into a batter with 1 lb. of four and a little rose-water. Bake the dough in tins, or on papers, and either sugar them or put in carraway-seeds. Or :—1 |b. of flour, 4 Ib. of loaf-sugar, and 4 Ib. of butter ; rub all together; wet it with 1 egg beaten up in + a teacupful of milk, and roll it out thin. Or.:-—Put the same quantities of flour, sugar, and butter ; but, instead of milk, moisten them with brandy. You may cut the dough into shapes with the edge of a wineglass, and prick them over before going to the oven. Cuap. XXVII. BISCUITS. . 541 Ginger Biscuit.— Work well 1} lb. of butter, with the same weight of moist sugar; add 8 eggs well beaten ; stir in 2% lbs. of flour, 1 0z. of volatile salts, and 4 oz. of ground ginger ; mix these well, roll out the paste, cut it in fancy shapes, and bake crisp. Or :—Beat 1 lb. of butter to a froth, 14 lb. of moist sugar, 2 oz. of ground ginger, and a grated nutmeg; mix it up with as much fiour as will make it into a stiff paste; roll it out thin, and cut it into small cakes; bake in a quick oven. Tea Biscuits are made with the finest flour, fresh butter seasoned with a little salt, and melted in warm milk: fora moderate quantity, 1 lb. of flour, 2 oz. of butter, and 1 pint of milk will be sufficient. Make it into a stiff paste, adding to it a large tablespoonful of strong brewers’ yeast, and leave it covered near the fire during time enough to make it rise. When quite light, knead it well, roll it out an inch thick, and form it into round cakes of the size of a muffin. Bake them in buttered pans until they are of a light brown; split and butter them, and send them to table hot. If intended to be kept and eaten cold, the paste must be rolled out very thin, and cut of a smaller size. Swiss Biscuits. — Mix 4 oz. of fine flour, 2 oz. of sifted sugar, the grated peel of a lemon, and 4 Ib. of butter, to a paste, with the white of an egg, and a sufficient quantity of milk. Roll it thin, cut into biscuits, and brush them over with the yolk of an egg, over which sift fine sugar: bake them on tins. Biscuits to keep a long time.—Mix 2 tbs. of flour, 1 Ib. of sugar, and 1 oz. of carraways, with 4 or 5 eggs and a few spoonfuls of water, to make a stiff paste: roll it thin, and cut it into any shape. Bake on tins lightly floured. While baking, boil 1 lb. of sugar, in a pint of water, toa thin syrup: while both are hot, dip each cake into it, and put them on tins into the oven to dry for a short time; when the oven is cooler still, return them there again, and let them stay 4 or 5 hours. If kept dry they will be good for months. White Cakes.—Dry 4 Ib. of flour, rub into it a very little pounded sugar, 1 oz. of butter, 1 egg, a few carraways, and as much milk and water as to make a paste; roll it thin, and cut it with the top of a canister or wineglass. Bake 15 minutes on tin plates. 542 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap, XXVII. » Wine Biscuits.—Rub into 1 lb. of dry flour 4 oz. of butter, 4 oz. of white powdered sugar, 1 egg, and a spoonful or two of thin cream to make it into‘a paste. When mixed, put cur- rants into one half, and carraways into the rest. Cut them as before, and bake on tins. Another.—Rub # lb. of fresh butter in 14 Ib. of sifted flour, and make it into a dough with a little cold water. Roll it out into a sheet 4 inch thick, and cut it into round cakes with the edge of a tumbler. Prick them with a fork; lay them ina shallow iron pan sprinkled with flour, and bake them in a moderate oven till they are brown. Send them to table warm. The introduction into England of the American soda-biscuits or crackers having caused several inquiries to be made for other American biscuits or cakes, we subjoin the following approved receipts :-— Cookies.—One Ib. of butter, + Ib. of sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls (or 3 drachms) of saleratus, 3 lbs. of flour, and about a pint of buttermilk, or milk that is slightly sour, may be used instead ; flavour the whole with ground coriander-seed according to taste. Cinnamon, ginger, or nutmeg, may be substituted for the coriander, if desired. Warm the buttermilk, and dissolve the saleratus in it by stirring. The sugar may be boiled in % pint of water, and allowed to cool before using, when less buttermilk must be used, and the butter must be rubbed small with the flour; or beat the butter and sugar together in a pan to a nice cream; add the other ingredients, and make into a paste. Make into rolls 4 inch thick, and cut into what shape you please; or roll out the paste to the same thickness, and cut it into any desired form. Bake from 20 minutes to ¢ an hour in a moderately cool oven. The same preparation, with only half the quantity of butter and sugar, and 3 pint more milk or water, makes a most excellent cake (superior to soda) for tea, or for children, to which carraway-seeds or cur- rants may be added. Waffles are likewise in very general use among the Ameri- cans, and are made thus :— Put 2 pints of rich milk into separate pans; cut up and melt in one of them + lb. of butter, warming it slightly; then, when it is melted, set it away to cool; beat 8 eggs very light, and mix them gradually into the other pan of milk alternately’ with $ lb. of flour; then mix in by degrees the milk that has Cuap. XXVII. BUNS. 543 the butter in. Lastly, stir in a large tablespoonful of strony fresh yeast, cover the pan, and set it near the fire to rise. When the batter is quite light, heat your waflle-iron, by putting it among the coals of a clear bright fire; grease the inside with butter tied in a rag, and then put in some batter. Shut the iron closely, and, when the waffle is done on one side, turn the iron on the other. Take the cake out by slipping a knife underneath, and then heat and grease the iron for an- other waffle. Send them to table quite hot, 4 or 6 on a plate, having buttered them and strewed over each a mixture of powdered cinnamon and white sugar. Or you may send the sugar and cinnamon in a little glass bowl.* ICING FOR CAKES. 797.—Beat the whites of 4 eggs to a solid froth, add gra- dually ? lb. of refined sugar pounded and sifted; mix in the juice of 4a lemon; beat it till very light and white. The cake should be cold. Place it before the fire, pour over it the icing, and smooth over the top and sides with a knife. It might be set to dry at the mouth of a cool oven. re > BUNS. 798.—To make a good plain Bun.—Rub 4 oz. of butter into 2 Ibs. of flour, 4 oz. of sugar, a nutmeg, or not, as you like, a few Jamaica peppers, a dessertspoonful of carraways ; put a spoonful or two of cream intoa cup of yeast, and as much good milk as will make the above into a light paste. Set it to rise by a fire till the oven be ready. ‘They will quickly bake on tins. For richer Buns.—Mix 14 lb. of dried flour with 4 Ib. of sugar, melt 1 lb. and 2 oz. of butter in a little warm water, add 6 spoonfuls of rose-water, and knead the above into a light dough with 4 pint of yeast; then mix in 5 oz. of carraway comfits, and put some on them. Cross Buns.—Take 4 lbs. of flour, rub in 4 lb. of butter, warm a quart of milk, and mix with 4 pint of good light yeast ; pour this into the middle of the flour, and mix it into a * The common sort of waffle-irons, which bake but two at once, are much the best ; they may be got of any of the Jewish ironmongers. sd 544 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Omar. XXVIUI. thin batter; cover it over, and let it stand to rise; then add 10 oz. of moist sugar and a teaspoonful of ground allspice ; work the dough with more warm milk if required, and put the buns on buttered tins; set them in a warm place to prove; when about half proved, cross them and brush them over with milk; bake them in a quick oven, and when done wash them over again with milk. Madeira Buns.—Beat 8 oz. of butter to a cream, to which add 2 eggs long beaten. Have ready 14 oz. of flour, 6 oz. of lump-sugar sifted, +a nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of sifted ginger, and a large spoonful of carraway-seeds, and, after mixing, work them well into the butter; beat it $ an hour; then add a large wineglass of sherry. Bake in tin pattypans in a mode- rately quick oven. ) Spanish Buns.—Take 1 lb. of fine flour, rub into it 3 lb. of butter; add 4 lb. of sugar, the same of currants, a little nut- meg, mace, and cinnamon; mix it with 5 eggs well beaten; make this up into small buns, and bake them on tins 20 minutes ; when half done brush them over with a little hot milk. Bath Buns.—The following is the original receipt :—To + lb. of fine flour put 4 yolks and 3 whites of eggs, with 4 spoonfuls of solid yeast (care must be taken that it is not bitter). Beat it well in a bowl, and set it before the fire to rise. ‘Then rub into 1 lb. of flour 10 oz. of good butter, put in $ lb. of sugar, and carraway-comfits; when the eggs and yeast are pretty light, mix by degrees all well together, throw | a cloth over it, and set it before the fire again to rise. Then make your buns, and when you have put them on the tins, brush them over with the yolk of egg and milk; strew them with carraway-comfits, and bake them in a quick oven. _A rich Scotch Bun.—4 lbs. of flour (half a peck of Scotch), 2 lbs. of raisins stoned and cut, and 2 lbs. of cur- rants. ‘Take 6 oz. of orange-peel, the same of citron, and of almonds blanched and cut; mix all these together. Take 1 drachm of cloves, a large nutmeg, 4 oz. of allspice, and the same of ginger; pound them, strew the spice on the fruit, and mix them very well. Make a hole in the flour, break in nearly 14 lb. of butter, pour warm water on the butter to soften it a little; then work the flour and butter together, spread the paste, and pour in 3 pint of good yeast; work it up very well _ *. / - = Cuap. XXVII. GINGERBREAD. se 545 until the paste is light and smooth. Cut off about a third part of the paste for the sheets, spread-out the rest of the paste on the table, put the fruit on it, pour about a gill of yeast over ‘the fruit and paste, and work the fruit and paste very well together. ‘Then make it up round; roll out the sheet which was reserved in a circular form, lay the bun on the middle, and gather the sheet round it; roll it out to the desired thickness, run a fork through in different parts down to the bottom, and pinch it on the top. Flour double grey paper and put the bun upon it, give it a cut round the side, put a binder of double paper round it to keep it from running too thin in the oven. Bake in a moderate oven. Or :—For the plainer sort, to 2 lbs. of flour add I lb. of butter, melt the butter, and make the flour into dough with it and about a gill of good yeast. Make it into cakes 4 inch in thickness, adding ¢ lb. of lump-sugar beaten, and 14 02. of carraway-seeds on the top. Let the dough lie on the table after it is cut out until it becomes stiff, which will not take long, and then put it into the oven. — ¢§ = GINGERBREAD. 799.—This is amongst the most ancient species of cake known throughout England and the north of Europe. In this country it is rarely eaten, except by children; but in Holland it is the common accompaniment of the “ schnapps ;’ and in Ghent there are shops as famous for it as our “ Leman” for biscuits. The following are selected from amongst the nume- rous ways of making it :— Take 1 lb. of treacle, 1 lb. of butter, 2 lbs. of flour, 1 oz. of ground ginger, sliced candied orange, and a glass of brandy. If not intended to be rich, omit 4 the butter, the brandy, and lemon, and make it of rye-flour, household flour, or oatmeal. At Leeds it is made with equal quantities of oatmeal and treacle, mixed with an eighth part of melted butter and brown sugar, and 1] oz. of powdered ginger, with } that quantity of other spice, to 4 lbs. of meal. This is called in that neighbour- hood ‘* Parkin,” and is made in almost every cottage on the 5th of November, and pieces sent about. presents. » The treacle should be perfectly sweet, for, if in the least 546 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cnar. XXVII. degree sour or too thick, the bread will be indifferent in flavour and appearance. Ginger, too, should be fresh ground, as it loses much of its strength by keeping. When baked, the tin must be well buttered to make the cake come out; and when done, a fork, if thrust into it, will come out clean. Another sort.—To # lb. of treacle beat 1 egg strained; mix 4 oz. of brown sugar, 3 oz. of ginger sifted ; of cloves, mace, allspice, nutmeg, ¢ oz. together, beaten as fine as possible; coriander and carraway seeds, each $ 0z.; melt 1 lb. of butter, and mix with the above; and add as much flour as will knead into a pretty stiff paste ; then roll it out, and cut into cakes. Bake on tin plates in a quick oven. A little time will bake them. A good plain sort.—Mix 8 Ibs. of flour with $ Ib. of butter, 4 oz. of brown sugar, 4 0z. of pounded ginger; then make into a paste with 1} lb. of treacle warm. A good sort, without butter.— Mix 2 lbs. of treacle; of orange, lemon, citron, and candied ginger, each 4 oz., all thinly sliced; 1 oz. of coriander-seeds, 1 oz. of carraways, and 1 oz. of ground ginger, in as much flour as will make a soft paste ; lay itin cakes on tin plates, and bake it in a quick oven. Keep it dry, and it will be good for some months. Imperial Gingerbread.—Rub 6 oz. of butter into ¢ |b. of flour, then mix 6 oz. of treacle with a pint of cream carefully, lest it should turn the cream; mix in ¢ |b. of double-refined sugar, 4 0z. of powdered ginger, and 1 oz. of carraway-seeds ; stir the whole well together into a paste, cut it into shapes, and stick cut candied orange or lemon peel on the top. Lemon Gingerbread.—Grate the rinds of 2 or 3 lemons, and add the juice to a glass of brandy; then mix the grated emon in 1 Ib. of flour, make a hole in the flour, pour in 3 Ib. of treacle, 3 lb. of butter melted, the lemon-juice, and brandy, and mix all up together with 4 oz. of ground ginger and ¢ oz. of cayenne pepper. Sugar Gingerbread. —1 |b. of sugar, 1 lb. of flour, and 4 egos; beat the sugar and eggs till they are white, then add a little ginger and rose-water and the flour. Thick Gingerbread.—The same ingredients are re as for the nuts, but the proportions are different. Use only sufficient, Car. XXVIII. © GINGERBREAD. , 547 treacle to knead the 2 lbs. of flour into a stiff dough: 2 oz. of butter and the same quantity of sugar are sufficient. The whole of the ammonia evaporates during the process of baking. Another.—Rub % lb. of butter into 2 lbs. of flour; add 4 lb. of brown sugar, 2 oz. of powdered ginger, + oz. of ground car- raway-seeds, and the same of carbonate of soda; mix them well, then work them with 2 lbs. of treacle, and 3 eggs well beaten ; pour the mixture into shallow tins, filling them about half full. Bake 13 hour in a moderate oven. GINGERBREAD-NUTS. 800.—Take 2 lbs. of flour, 2 lbs. of treacle, $ lb. of butter, 4 lb. of sugar, z lb. of candied peel, 1 oz. of ground ginger, 1 oz. of coriander and 1 oz. of carraway seeds, finely pounded : mix all well together. Just before it is put into the oven (which must be a moderate one) stir in ¢ oz. of carbonate of ammonia, finely powdered; if required lighter, 5 oz. may be used. Some persons use 1 oz. of pearlashes instead of the ammonia, but the latter is preferred. Or :—+ |b. of flour, 3 lb. of treacle, 1 teaspoonful of cay- enne pepper, 2 eggs, a little volatile salts, and 1 tablespoon- ful of coriander and carraway seeds. Make the treacle hot, and mix in the other ingredients; then make them into nuts as above. The Yorkshire Receipt.—Mix 3 tb. of flour, the same quantity of butter and of brown sugar, with 3 oz. of ginger, a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda rubbed into the flour, with as much treacle as will make it into a paste. Roll it out thin, and bake it for about 20 minutes in a slow oven. The Suffolk Receipt—Put 1 lb. of brown sugar and 1 Ib. of honey, with 4 the rind of a lemon grated, into a saucepan, and simmer them well together ; then add 4 oz. of good fresh butter and 1 oz. of ginger; mix the whole with 2 lbs. of flour. These two receipts have been strongly recommended. With Carraway Seeds.—Take 14 lb. of fine flour well dried, add 1 oz. of pounded ginger, 4 oz. of carraway seeds, and + Ib. of coarse sugar. Put 3 lb. of treacle and ¢ lb. of fresh butter in a pan, and when it boils mix it with the other ingredients into a stiff paste, and set it before the fire to lighten ; then bake in any form that may be desirable. 548 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap, XXVIII, CHAPTER XXVIII. BREAD. On the making of bread a few previous observations are ne- cessary. FLOUR. 801.—With regard to that most essential object the guality of the flour, we need hardly insist that it should not only be good but of the best corn, that being the best economy, both in point of price, and the kind, as well as quantity, of the bread made from it. Cheap bread must ever be of indifferent quality. The flour of which it is made is always ground either from damaged Wheat, or that of the most inferior kind, mixed by the miller with a little of the better sort, and made up by the baker with potato starch, alum, and soda, to render it apparently good. If you grow your own wheat, winnow it, screen it, scutch it, air it, and do not send it to the mill until 12 months old: even then, do not trust it to the miller, unless under your own eye or that of a confidential servant. The value of wheaten flour consists, besides its purity, in the quantity which it contains of that portion of the grain termed “ gluten,” of which there is more in that grown in the southern climates than in those of the north; which may in some degree account for the superiority ascribed to the Ame- rican flour imported into this country from Virginia.* The flour should never be made from corn that is not some months old, and should be kept in a dry part of the house for a few weeks before being baked. Household Bread of very wholesome quality may be made with coarser flour, or even by merely screening off the out- ward bran of the wheat, and making the whole into loaves, without sifting the flour into the different sorts of fineness. It is looked upon by medical men asa good remedy for in- a The American flour imbibes more water than the English on making it into bread; for it has been stated, in comparative. experiments, that a stone of 14 lbs. weight of the American flour will make 21 Ibs, of bread, but the best sort of English flour only produces about 184 lbs. GuarpsXXVHI. .v YEAST. 549 digestion ; and the different effects created by the constant use of white or brown bread have been thus stated :— ** Mistaken notions respecting the quality of different sorts of bread have given rise to much waste. The general belief is, that the bread made of the finest flour is the best, and that whiteness is the proof of its quality : but both these opinions are popular errors. ‘The whiteness may be, and generally is, communicated by alum, to the injury of the consumer; and it is well known by men of science that the bread of unrefined flour will sustain life, while that made with the refined will not. Keep a man on brown bread and water, and he will live and enjoy good health; give him white bread and water only, and he will gradually sicken, and probably in a short time die.’”* Brown Bread, when divested of the coarser bran, not only merits this preference in point of digestion, but is even thought to nourish better, as proved by the experience of sailors on long voyages, who are always furnished with bis- cuits made from unrefined flour, and are both strong and healthy. It should be made of unbolted wheat-meal, into 3 quarts of which should be puta gill each of yeast and mo- lasses, with a quart of lukewarm water, and a teaspoonful of pearlash. This quantity will make as much as 2 loaves, when made in the usual mode of household bread. Bran, indeed, contains few nutritious parts, but then it contains the essential oil and the larger portion of the saline substances of the vegetable. ‘The grain is furnished with two membranes or husks, the second or inner of which is the principal seat of the oil; and it is this oil which imparts that agreeable smell to brown bread so superior to white. In grinding the grain, a large portion of the first skin is divided from the second, and mixes very intimately with the rest ; the first is an indigestible husk, a great part of which will be separated by rejecting a third part of the bran, or by scuftling it rapidly in a circular turning machine of wire, the motion of which throws off the outer husk; the finer parts, being thus intermixed, greatly facilitate the digestion of the bread by dividing its more glutinous pulp. YEAST. 802.—As to Yeast or Yest, or as some people call it “ barm,” there can be no doubt that the best is that taken ® «Literary Gazette.’ 550 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Car. XXVIII. re AT from good brewers’ ale, which not only causes the dough to rise with more certainty than any other composition, but also imparts to the bread a slight aromatic bitter of a very agree- able flavour. This, however, cannot always be got, and, although yeast of a good quality may generally be found at most country oil-shops, we here add a few receipts for those who prefer having it made at home: premising that, as these are not so strong as the brewers’ yeast, a larger quantity must be used. To 4.02. of malt and 2 oz. of hops put a quart of boiling water, and let it remain boiling for 20 minutes, then strain the liquor to 8 oz. of flour ; cover it until it ferments, and use it when it rises. Patent Yeast.—The following is copied from the original specification in the patent-office, from which was introduced the system, still in use amongst bakers, of making a ferment with potatoes for raising dough, instead of what was termed *¢ quarter-sponges :”— “To make a yeast-gallon of this composition, such yeast- gallon containing 8 beer-quarts, boil in common water 8 Ibs. of potatoes, as for eating: bruise them perfectly smooth, and mix with them, while warm, 2 oz. of fine honey, and 1 beer- quart of common yeast. For making bread, mix 3 beer-pints of the above composition with a bushel of flour, using warm water in making the bread: the water to be warmer in winter than in summer, and the composition to be used in a few hours after it is made; and so soon as the sponge, or the mixture of the composition with the flour, begins to fall the first time, the bread should be made and put into the oven.” Persons who are in the habit of making their own bread can easily manufacture their own yeast, by attending to the following directions :— Boil 1- Ib. of good flour, + lb. of brown sugar, and 3 oz. of salt, in 2 gallons of water for an hour; when nearly cold, bottle it, and cork it close, and it will be fit for use in 24 hours. 1 pint will make 18 Ibs. of bread. THE OVEN. 803.—For the baking of bread there can be no doubt the fire-proof brick oven is the best. It should be round, not long ; the roof from 20 to 24 inches high, the mouth small, and the door of iron to shut close. Guar, XXVIII. OVEN. 551 This construction will save firing and time, and bake better than long and high-roofed ovens. Brick ovens are also the best for baking all kinds of large cakes and pies; the reason of which is chiefly owing to their being generally capable of retaining the heat a much longer time than one built of iron; unless, indeed, when the latter happens to be very substantially made of wrought iron. When this is the case, they serve all the purposes for a private family. We have had one in constant use for the last 30 years : it is set separately from the kitchen fire, and occupies no more space than a small boiler would. Four tins, being made to fit. in without touching the sides, will hold each a loaf of 4 lbs. A fire-proof tile should be placed under the tins to prevent the bread burning at the bottom, and, when half done, the loaves should be changed, the front ones to the back, as there will be the greatest heat: the fire is under the oven, and, after having been once lighted, should be supplied only by cinders, wetted, and a small quantity of small coal mixed with them. For the baking of pastry, light bread, rolls, and breakfast- cakes, the iron ovens fixed in the usual kitchen ranges have the advantage of requiring but little fire, and enabling the cook to regulate its temperature, so as to increase or diminish its power ; but astill better may be found in the French move- able oven, for which see No. 767. MAKING BREAD. 804.—Put the necessary quantity of good flour—say 4 bushel—into a kneading-trough, or broad earthen pan, and make a large hole in the middle of the heap. Have ready a quart of warm water and stir it into a pint of brewers’ yeast, or, if home-made, a larger quantity; then pour it through a sieve into the -hole, and, with a large wooden spoon, work it round so as to bring it to a batter of m>mrate toughness, and, when that is done, sprinkle over ita large handful of flour, so as to commence what is called “ setting the sponge ;” then cover it with a cloth or board, and leave it to rise in a warm place: the sponge will rise enough in the course of 2 hours. When it has risen so high as to crack the flour on the top, put 4 lb. of salt into a quart of water a little warmer than new milk; let the salt be thoroughly melted, or it is liable to settle in lumps, which would spoil the bread: pour Le chad 552 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cap. XXVIII, this water into the batter, and mix it well before taking in any of the flour, as this ensures the bread being uniformly light ; then prepare another jug of water to use if wanted. That done, knead the dough well, turning it over, pressing it, folding it, and working it thoroughly with your clenched hands, for at least 4 an hour, or until it becomes light as well as stiff, and until all the flour is worked up. When done, the dough should be of such a consistency as not to stick to the hand, Remember that the goodness of the bread will greatly depend on the kneading, which requires both strength and practice. If baked in an iron oven, the dough should at once be rolled up and put into the tins, leaving it to rise in a warm place till nearly at the top of the tins, which should then at once be placed in the oven. A loaf of 4 lbs. will take about 2 hours to bake it. If the oven is well set it will be sufficiently heated during the time the bread is being made: dredge a little flour in ; if it changes colour it is hot enough. The loaves may be made of any form and size you please : for a small family, the 3 quartern, or 2 Ib. loaf, is the most convenient, but the full quartern is the most common, and, in large establishments, where household bread is used, peck loaves are not unusual. ‘The bread, if unexposed to the air, and kept in earthen, closely-covered pans, in a cool spot, will remain sufficiently fresh for a week, and any appearance of staleness may be removed by slightly damping the outside of the loaf, and putting it for a short time into the oven. If the oven be of brick, it should be heated by faggots, and will be sufficiently hot in about 4 hours; when the dough is ready, clear out the ashes, and sweep the floor clean for its reception. If necessary to lessen the heat, take an old broom, dip it in water, and hold it in the oven, twirling it round until it becomes dry. Try the heat of the bottom by throwing in some flour ; and if it scorches or turns black, do not ven- ture to put in the bread till the oven has had time to become cooler.. £ Wher the loaves are put in the oven close up the door, and do not open it more than once or twice, for a moment, just to see how the process is going on. The loaves will take from 24 to 3 hours baking, or more if their size be large; and, as a portion of the dough is frequently made up into rolls or twists, they must, of course, be removed earlier, ‘Cottage Bread, if meant for the breakfast-table, is better “el Cuap. XXVIII. Ke BREAD. 558 baked in tins; and if*made with a portion of milk, will be more delicate ; but milk used in howsehold-bread will be apt in a few days to turn it sour. In the making of either sort, if a tenth or a twelfth part of potato-flour be employed, it will improve their lightness and colour ; and if, in the mixing of the dough, bran be boiled ia the water used in making it, “it will be found to impart a fine flavour of corn to the bread. Not only will this be the fact, but it has been calculated that if 5 lbs. of bran be boiled in water, then strained off, and the water used in kneading 56 Ibs. of flour with the usual quantity of salt and yeast, the dough will weigh about 94 Ibs. 13 0z.; or 8 lbs. 10 oz. more than if kneaded with pure water. Family Bread.—A sack of good flour weighing 280 Ibs. ought to produce on an average rather more than 360 lbs. of excellent white bread, if well kneaded and properly baked, and that without any other addition ; though a little ‘soda, or a very small quantity of magnesia, will assist in enabling the dough to rise, and thus increase the lightness of the bread ; but alum, though it improves the colour; will occasion it to dry up sooner ; bakers who make the best bread, indeed, rarely use it, and then only in case of some discoloration in the flour, which, if good and well dressed, produces bread suffi- ciently white without any foreign admixture whatever. FERMENTED AND UNFERMENTED BREAD. 805.—The attention of the public, and economists in par- ticular, has, within the last few years, been directed towards the method of making unfermented bread; and its supposed superiority over fermented bread has been much extolled in a pamphlet lately published by “ A Physician,” * who estimates the loss in weight by this decomposition to be, in the London bread, 13 per cent.; and, according to M. Dumas, as quoted by him, to be in the Paris bread 17,485 per cent.: ‘‘ the waste varies somewhat, according to the degree to which the fer- mentation has been excited, and its duration ;”—1in which the Doctor is right; for the waste, or loss of weight, will be in proportion to the duration of the fermentation, which must be sufficiently excited and continued to produce a well-made * See also a small pamphlet ‘On the Philosophy of Bread-making,’ oo lished by E, H, Matthews, at one penny. 2B 554 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXVIII. loaf; beyond this there is no necessity for extending the fer- mentation, arid if checked at this stage the bread will be sweet . and well tasted, indeed more so than that produced by the chemical means. Bakers, in order to please the eye of the public, carry the | fermentation of their bread to the greatest possible extent, almost approaching the acetous state, so as to have a very white, large, and well-piled loaf of bread, with which alone the public will be satisfied.: In the Rev. Mr. Haggett’s Economical Bread, only the coarse flake bran is to be removed from the flour: of this bran take 5 lbs., and boil it in rather more than 4 gallons of water, so that when perfectly smooth you may naa gallons and 3 quarts of bran-water clear. With this knead 56 lbs. of the flour, adding salt and yeast in the same way and proportions as for other bread. When ready to bake, divide it into loaves and bake them 24 hours. We do not, however, uphold this mode so much on the principle of economy, as on that of the quality of the bread made with water in, which bran has been boiled, as we know from long experience that wheaten bread made in this manner always has a sweeter taste of corn than when made from pure water. Maize Bread.—Take an equal quantity of the meal of maize and wheaten flour. Set a sponge first with three parts of the wheaten flour, the requisite quantity of yeast, warm water, and salt. Whilst this is rising, mix the maize-meal up with water, and boil it over the fire, keeping it well stirred till it comes to the consistence of paste, and let it cool. When the sponge has risen to its greatest height, and begins to drop or sink down again, then add the meal paste; mix and knead them both well together, using the rest of the wheaten flour left from the sponge in the kneading with a sufficient quantity of water to make the whole of a proper consistency. Put the dough into a pan, cover it with a thick cloth or flannel, and let it remain in a warm place or before the fire to prove for 14 or 2 hours, then divide it into loavesand bake. The maize, having no gluten in it, can only be rendered in any degree light by a large admixture of wheaten flour. Rye-bread may be made in the same manner as wheaten, and if both be mixed, as meslin, it has a very agreeable Cuap. XXVIII. ROLLS. 5595 ~ flavour, approaching to acidity. The grain, though dark- coloured, and the flour very brown, yet forms excellent bread at half the price of that made of wheat, and very far superior to that of maize. It is, indeed, the only bread consumed by the peasantry of Germany, who form as healthy a population as is found in any part of Kurope. $= ROLLS, BREAKFAST-CAKES, &c. ROLLS. 806.—French Rolls are usually made by the bakers, but in country houses, where families bake their own bread, they may be done in either of the following ways :— Sift 1 lb. of flour, and rub into it 2 oz. of butter; mix in the whites of 3 eggs beaten to a froth, and a tablespoonful of strong yeast; add enough of milk, with a little galt, to make a stiff dough, and set it, covered, before the fire to rise —which will take about an hour; if cut into small rolls, and put into a quick oven, they will be done in little more than 10 minutes. Or :—Take } peck of the very finest flour, 1 oz. of butter melted in milk and water: mix with it 2 or 8 spoonfuls of yeast, according to its strength, and strain it through a hair sieve; whisk the white of an egg and work it into a light paste, add salt, and leave it all night. Then work it up well again, and make it into rolls. English Rolls——Sift 1 Ib. of flour into a pan, and mix with it a small teaspoonful of salt. Warm a gill of milk and water; make a hole in the middle of the flour and put into it a gill of brewers’ yeast, making it all into a thin batter, which must be stirred until quite free from lumps: then strew a handful of flour over it; set it in a warm place, and leave it to rise, which will take 2 hours or more; let it, however, remain until it has cracked on the top, and then make it into a dough with more milk and water. Knead it well for 10 minutes, cover it, and set it again to rise for 20 minutes longer. ‘Then form the dough into small rolls, bake them, and send them to table hot. Or :—To 2 lbs. of flour well dried, and 1 pint of water milk-warm, put 3 spoonfuls of yeast: then knead in 2 oz. of 2B2 556 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXVIII. fresh butter and a little salt, and work all well together. The oven must be very quick, and + of an hour will bake them; the dough should make 12 rolls. Or :—1% |b. of flour, a pint of milk, 1 egg, and 2 spoonfuls of yeast, well mixed and set before the fire to rise, will make still nicer rolls, and 20 minutes will bake them. They should be served hot, cut in 3, buttered, put together again, and covered when brought to table. ROCKS. 807.—Take a loaf that is half-baked, pull it apart, and with 2 forks tear the crumb into bits about the size of a walnut; lay them on a tin and return them to the oven, and bake of a light brown. A loaf made for the purpose with milk and a little butter makes them nicer. A sweet cake pulled in this way is gery good. BREAKFAST-CAKES. 808. On Muflinks —Take 2 eggs, 2 spoonfuls of new yeast, and a little salt. Mix a little warm new milk and water into a quart of flour. Beat all well together, and let it stand to rise. Bake them for about 20 minutes, until of a light brown, either on a hot iron, or in shallow tin pans in a Dutch oven. When to be brought to table, toast them slightly on both sides, but not in the middle: then notch them round the centre, and pull them open with your fingers, without using a knife, and butter them. Crumpets.—Beat 2 eggs very well, put to them a een of warm milk and water, and a large spoonful of yeast; beat in as much fine flour as will make them rather thicker than a common batter pudding; then make the stove hot, or the iron cover of a bain-marie very hot, and rub it with a little butter wrapped in a clean linen cloth; pour a large spoonful of the batter upon the iron, and let it run within a ring to the size of a teasaucer; turn them with the elastic blade of an old table-knife ; and when you want to use them, toast them very quickly, but not too crisply, and butter them. Leicestershire Pikelet.—Mix a pint of milk with flour sufficient to make a thick batter; add 4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of good fresh yeast, a small quantity of nutmeg, and a little salt. The whole to be beaten up together for 10 minutes, then left to stand 2 hours to rise. Bake on a girdle-stone, Cuap. XXVIII. BREAKFAST-CAKES. 557 and butter each whilst hot—laying 3 or 4 on the same plate. Those which are kept to the following day should be laid separately on a clean cloth as they are baked, and when to be eaten, toast and butter them like crumpets. A Sally-Lunn, when eaten hot and well buttered, is a very favourite accompaniment of the breakfast or tea table, and may be made in either of these ways :— Into 1 pint of flour rub a piece of butter the size of a walnut, a little salt, and a little yeast. Let it rise $ an hour before the fire. ‘Then mix it with 2 eggs, and if not enough add a little milk; knead the dough well, and let it stand some minutes before the fire; after which, make this quan- tity into 5 cakes and have them slack-baked, as they must be well warmed in a Dutch oven before being toasted for table. Or :—Put 1 oz. of butter into almost a pint of new milk, and make it blood-warm. Beat up 3 eggs well, add to them 3 spoonfuls of good barm, and put in a little salt. Have 3 Ibs. of fine flour well dried, pour in the above ingredients, and beat it up to the consistency of French bread. Lay it to sponge for 2 hours. Then pour it into a cake-pan. An hour will bake it. A very good breakfast cake may also be made with ¢ Ib. of flour, 1 oz. of butter, and an egg, made into a paste with a spoonful of milk and a very little salt: let it rise before the fire, and bake it quickly. Cut it in half, while quite hot, and butter it. It is commonly called ‘“ Yorkshire cake,” but when strongly impregnated with saffron, mixed with a small quantity of sugar, it is very commonly used in Bath and in Dublin as “ Saffron cake.” In America buckwheat-cakes are in great vogue as a break- fast delicacy, and, according to Miss Leslie’s receipt, are made thus :-— “Take a quart of buckwheat meal, mix with it a teaspoonful of salt, and add—if you have it—a handful of Indian meal; pour a large tablespoonful of the best brewers’ yeast into the centre of the meal; then mix it gradually with cold water till it becomes a batter. Cover it, put it in a warm place, and set it to rise: it will take about 3 hours. When it is quite light, and covered with bubbles, it is fit to bake. Put your griddle 558 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar. XXVIII. over the fire and let it get quite hot before you begin. Grease it well with a piece of butter tied in a rag. Then dip out a large ladleful of the batter and bake it on the griddle, turning it with a broad wooden paddle. Let the cakes be of large size, and even at the edges. Butter them as you take them off the griddle ; put several on a plate, and cut them across in 6 pieces. Grease the griddle anew between baking each cake. j “Tf your batter has been mixed over night, and is found to be sour in the morning, melt in warm water a piece of pearl- ash the size of a grain of corn, or a little larger; stir it into the batter, let it set for 4 an hour, and then bake it. The pearlash will remove the sour taste, and increase the lightness of the cakes.” In Shrewsbury they are made thus:—Take a quart or 3 pints of lukewarm water; put it into an earthen jar; add a small portion of salt and a common teacupful of yeast. Then stir in the buckwheat flour until it becomes a thick batter, cover it, and set it to rise. When light, and in a state of fermentation, take a frying-pan, the inside rubbed with butter or good lard; then place in the frying-pan 3 or 4 table- spoonfuls of the batter in each cake, until there are as many as the pan will contain. A few minutes over a quick fire will suffice to cook them in the same manner as the common pan- cake ; and when sufficiently cooked, butter them while quite hot, and serve them for breakfast. Buckwheat dressed in this manner will be found excellent and very wholesome, but it does not answer in any other way. The batter takes 3 or 4 hours to rise. Johnny Cakes.—Sift a quart of wheaten flour, or corn meal, into a pan; make a hole in the middle, and pour in a pint of warm water. Mix the meal and water gradually into a batter, adding a teaspoonful of salt; beat it very quickly, and for a Jong time, till it becomes quite light ; then spread it thick and even on a stout piece of smooth board; place it upright on the hearth before a clear fire, with something to support the board behind, and bake it well; cut it into squares, and split and butter them hot. They may also be made with a quart of milk, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, and 1 teacupful of wheaten flour; add Indian corn meal sufficient to make a batter like Cuar. XXVIU. BREAKFAST-CAKES. 559 that of pancakes, and either bake it in buttered pans, or upon a griddle, and eat them with butter.° Paste Cake.—In Ireland breakfast-cakes are baked on a eriddle, or flat iron, placed on trivets over a cinder or turf fire, and the cake under the above title is there composed of flour and butter, just in the same manner as for a pie-crust, and therefore made as rich or as plain as you like. ‘The paste is made a full inch thick, usually to the circumference of a dinner-plate. It is then placed upon the griddle, twice turned until done, when it is served hot, then divided and buttered, as each person may please. It is a very delicious but indi- gestible appendage to breakfast. Slim-cake is made simply of flour and milk, without butter, and baked in the same manner as the above, but always eaten cold, with butter. TOAST AND BUTTER. é. 809.—In the making of dry and buttered toast there should be this difference :— Dry toast should be cut very thin, and held at a distance from the fire to render it crisp; while buttered toast should not only be cut rather thick and placed near to the fire, to keep soft, but, for that purpose, held for a minute or two over a bowl of boiling water to imbibe the steam before being buttered. ‘The toast should always be buttered on both sides, and the crusts cut off. If fresh butter be used, it must be accompanied with a muffineer, to salt it, but most people prefer the flavour of really good salt butter. Take 2 Ibs. of fine flour, after being gently warmed before the fire, and rub into it 4 pint of warm mealy potatoes. When well mixed, add a proper quantity of yeast and salt with warm milk and water sufficient to make into dough, which must be allowed 2% hours to rise before being formed into a loaf: which. put into a tin to preserve its shape, and when placed in the oven take care that it be not over- browned.” On this, Dr. Hunter, from whom we copy the above, ob- serves, “that the lovers of toast and butter will be much pleased with this kind of bread. The potato is not here added with a view to economy, but to increase the lightness of e. * Matthews ‘On Bread-Making.’ b * Medical Commentary on Receipts in Modern Cookery,’ by A. Hunter, M.D., F.B.8., L.-& E; ¥. 560 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXVIII. the bread, in which state it will imbibe the butter with more freedom.” : eee 0 ee SAVOURY DISHES FOR BREAKFAST. GRILLADES. 810.—Perhaps there is no better grill for breakfast than a cold blade-bone of mutton, off which the greater part of the meat has been already cut. ‘The remaining parts should then be scored, and the gashes filled with a mixture of mustard, cayenne, common pepper, and salt, as for a devil: it should then be put upon the gridiron, and well browned, but not burnt. It may be sent to table dry, without any sauce, or served with gravy mixed with capers. The bones of cold fowl of all kinds are also frequently brought thus to breakfast. Broiled Chicken.--Split open an uncooked chicken, pepper it only on the inside, put it on the gridiron over a moderate fire, and when perfectly done on both sides serve it up quite hot, just touched over with a very little butter, and accom- panied with broiled mushrooms. Another brotl.—Put thin slices of well-seasoned kidney and bacon, with beef or mutton between, upon skewers. Have ready fine bread-crumbs, with a slight grating of lemon, brush them over with egg, and roll them in the crumbs. Hang up the skewers to roast in a toaster, and put a slice of toast under it to secure the gravy: when served, carefully remove the skewers, and place the “ kabobs” on the toast; but, if only a quantity suffi- cient to help one person be put on each skewer, then do not remove them. If, instead of meat, an oyster be put between each slice of bacon and kidney, it will be found very supe- rior. As to bloaters and finnan-had- dock, they are too well known to need any description; dried salmon or a fresh mackerel, split open and broiled, is likewise a good relish. Steaks or a grill may be easily and quickly cooked by means of a A Conjurer, _ CHap. XXVIII. SAVOURY DISHES FOR BREAKFAST. 563 tion of chopped anchovies, or the essence, diavolo paste, or Chetney. Or :—Make a slice of cheese into a‘ paste a made mus- tard, and lay it upon one side. A dry Devil.—-Take the liver, gizzard, drumstick, and side bones of a fowl or turkey; score them; lay on made mustard very thickly, and add a quantity of cayenne pepper and salt, and broil them. A wet Devil—Take any part of a turkey, goose, or fowl, cover it with mustard, Chetney, diavolo paste, or any other piquant condiment; put a dessertspoonful of cayenne pepper, one of pounded white sugar, the juice of a lemon, a glass of wine, and a glass of ketchup, to a teacupful of gravy ; heat them together, pour over the devilled fowl, and send up very hot. A little cold fresh butter will cool the mouth, should the grill prove too powerful. DEVILLED GAME. 814.—Split a woodcock, snipe, wild duck, or any other game that is underdone. To a teaspoonful of salt add a dessertspoonful of cayenne pepper with a tablespoonful of curry-powder, and wet the whole with French mustard. Cover the birds both inside and out with this mixture. ‘Take out the brains when the head is split, and, if a woodcock, add the trail ; make them into a paste with the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, 4 a blade of pounded mace, a saltspoonful of grated lemon- peel, and season it with essence of anchovies, ketchup, or other sauce; then add a glass of wine, a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, a dessertspoonful of pounded white sugar, and the juice of a lemon or of a Seville orange. Roll a bit of butter, the size of a walnut, in flour; put the birds and the sauce into a metal dish over a lamp, cover it close, shake it about occa- sionally, and when it has stewed until the greater part of the sauce has been imbibed, serve it round. ‘The legs of fowls, geese, and turkeys, may be devilled the same way. Or :—Mix equal parts of fine salt, cayenne pepper, and curry-powder, with double the quantity of powder of truffles. Dissect a woodcock or any bird in season, rather under roasted, and powder the whole with the mixture; crush the trail and brains along with the yolk of a hard- boiled egg, the grated peel of a lemon, $a spoonful of Chetney sauce, and a little soy ; then add a tablespoonful of ketchup, a wineglass of Madeira, = Ves MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY, Cuap. XXVIII. and the juice.of $ a Seville orange. Throw this sauce, along with the bird, into a silver stewdish, to be heated with spirits of wine ; cover close up, light the lamp, and keep gently sim- mering until the flesh is completely saturated; then pour in a small quantity of salad-oil, and serve it round instantly, as it may be prepared at the table, and should be eaten hot.* MUSTARD, 815.—No savoury things are ever brought to table without this indispensable accompaniment, the best of which— Durham —umay be had in a pure state at Apothecaries’ Hall. In making it, pure water is most generally used, with a pinch of salt and sugar, though both are frequently omitted ; but a much better mode for preserving it, as well as adding to it a good flavour, is to make it of water in which horseradish _ has been boiled. This costs no trouble; for if the horseradish be scraped and put in a teacup with boiling water poured upon it and covered, the infusion will be strong enough in little more than + an hour. The Parisian mustard, known as moutarde de Maille, is however much in vogue among gastronomists, as possessing a finer pungency of flavour, and may be imitated by mixing up the flour and a little fine salt with salad-oil, so as to form a thick paste, then diluting it to a certain degree with equal quantities of the vinegars of horseradish, tarragon, chili, and garlic; or sufficient of each to please the palate. Cayenne should never be used, and even chili vinegar but sparingly. SANDWICHES 816.—Require more care than is usually bestowed upon them, for this reason, that every one believes he can cut sandwiches. Where any quantity is required the bread should be made on purpose, and the baker should be desired to bake it in tins, and either add a little butter to it or prove it well before it is put into the tins, so that it should not be full of holes, as in that case too much butter is used, and the sandwich becomes disagreeable from being greasy. Cut the bread moderately thin, butter it very slightly indeed, lay the meat cut thin, season with salt, pepper, dnd mustard, as may be required ; cover with a second slice of bread, trim the edges, put them one on the other, and cover with a damp cloth until wanted. * Essays on Good Living. Cuar. XXIX. COFFEE. a 565 — Where tongue is used it should be boiled the day before, and, when thoroughly done, pressed in the mould in which the bread is to be baked. Chickens boned, and farced with a small quantity of farce of veal and ham, and treated in the same way, will make excellent sandwiches. All kinds of meat used’ for sandwiches should be thoroughly done. p CHAPTER XXIX. COFFEE, TEA, AND CHOCOLATE. 817.—EIrTHER coffee, tea, or chocolate, forms the constant beverage of our English breakfast; and the two former are also such a common evening refreshment that it would be un- pardonable to pass them over without remark. Formerly coffee was hardly ever seen at the breakfast-table - in England, and was, indeed,,only rarely brought forward in the evening, except for a party, and along with tea. It was also then made insufferably weak—consequently bad— and without any knowledge either of the proper mode of pre- paring it, or care for the original quality of the berry ; which ought to be rather pale in colour, small in size, and of a roundish form. . Nothing can be more grateful to the stomach, or more favourable to digestion, than a cup of good strong coffee —or, as the French call it, café moiry—soon after dinner; and if it be followed by a small glass of liqueur, as chasse cafe, it will be found equally agreeable to the palate. Still, however, there is much to be learned respecting the best mode of pre- paring it; and as this is more scientifically done in Paris than in London, we here offer a few directions on the subject. Independently of the mode of making, the coffee should be of good quality, or the flavour will suffer in proportion to its inferiority. The Mocha is the best, and the Java good; but the sorts most commonly used in this country are the Jamaica and the Berbice, which are both excellent when well chosen and undamaged. To this must be added the age to which it should be kept: for, if used soon after being gathered, it has an unpleasant 566 © MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY, Cnar. XXIX. coarseness of flavour. In those countries where it is grown it is seldom used until 3 years old; and if older will be all the better. It should always be exposed to the air, and kept very dry. The best mode is, to buy it raw, and keep it. for a long time—even years—without using it; only roasting it at the time it is wanted ; and that operation should be performed by Orpwood’s roasting machine, which is fixed on the bars of a grate, and roasts 4 lb. of coffee without trouble, and with great regularity, in less than ¢ of an hour; it is far superior to the coffee-roaster which is heated by a lamp. The roasted berries should then be put into a bag of flannel to cool and prevent the escape of the aroma; after which grind them. If not used soon after it is ground, the powder should be wrapped up and put before the fire or in the oven to get hot. When the berry has been roasted at the grocer’sfit should be warmed before it is ground. - The French mode of making—As much of the powder should be used as one to every 8 cups of the liquid to be made, and placed in the upper part of the common French machine, called a grecque, which may be got at any of the tin-shops. It is merely a coffee-pot with an upper receptacle made to fit close into it, the bottom of which is perforated with holes, and containing in its interior 2 moveable metal strainers, over the second of which the coffee is to be placed, and imme- diately under the third; upon the upper strainer pour botling water, until it bubbles up through the strainer; then shut the cover close down, place it near the fire, or upon the hob of a parlour grate; and so soon as the water is drained through the coffee, repeat the operation until the whole intended quan- tity is passed. The top of the machine may then be removed, and the coffee may be served in the pot in which it has been made, or in any other, only taking care that it shall first be warmed with hot water, and that the coffee itself be brought up strictly hot. This is the true Parisian method, and it requires neither isinglass nor clearings of any description, as it will come to table quite transparent. A patent has, however, lately been taken out under the title of “ Platow’s Automaton Coffee Urn,” which perfectly clarifies the coffee, and can be made an elegant appendage to the table (see cut No. 1). Ifthe upper vessel is made of glass, it is then an interesting process to make the coffee in the drawing-room, Cuar. XXIX. COFFEE 567 instead of having it made in the kitchen, which, for some reason or other, very seldom sends out a good cup of coffee. It is heated by a spirit lamp. The coffee-pot shown in cut No. 2 is upon the same principle, but can be set upon the fire, as both vessels are of block-tin. The upper vessel screws on: this is taken off, and the water put into the lower vessel ;. the upper vessel is then screwed on again, and the dry coffee put into it. Set it on the fire, or place the lamp under it, and the water will boil up through the dry coffee. Just stir it that every part of the coffee may be wetted, let it boil for 3 minutes, then take it off the fire, or remove the lamp, and the coffee will gradually drain back to the lower vessel, leaving the grounds in the upper. ‘This process is the most certain, the most economical, and produces the brightest coffee of any we have ever tried; and coffee being a favourite beverage, there is scarcely a plan proposed for making it which we have not tried, and decidedly think the “‘ Platow”’ the best. They are to be got at all the large furnishing ironmongers’. Platow’s Coffee-p it. One great art in making: coffee is to use a sufficient quantity of the powder ; for if not strong, the aroma of its flavour is lost in proportion to its state of weakness. Foreigners seldom drink more than 1 small cup of coffee after dinner, and that always without either milk or cream; but as most English people like a mixture of the latter, the milk—if cream cannot be ‘had—should always be boiled and 568 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. COnap. XXIX. used hot, in a much larger quantity than cream; but cream better preserves the flavour of the coffee. Milk Coffee is an excellent breakfast, and, as its name im- plies, is generally composed of 1 milk and 2 coffee: the coffee is made in the same manner as for after dinner; the boiling inilk may, however, be afterwards added according to fancy. If the yolk of a raw egg be well mixed up with 3 a pint of the milk, it will materially add to the richness of the coffee ; but soft sugar should then be used; whereas the best refined lump or powdered sugar-candy should be taken in that which - is to be drunk pure. For milk-coffee, always make the coffee as strong as in the French mode; and weaken it as you please with milk. Should the plan be adopted of each person mixing the milk and coffee according to their taste, an excellent uten- sil would be that of a small tea-urn, divided in the centre of its interior, to separate the liquids, but equally communicating the warmth of the heater; it must have the addition of a cock on each side. As to the liguid essence of coffee, the best sort is not a bad substitute, in a hurry, for that made in a preper way; but it is not nearly so good. Mocha coffee can only be found at the shops of grocers of eminence, though every petty dealer puts off what he calls “Turkey coffee,” as being the same. If you cannot roast the berries, at least grind them yourself, to prevent the imposition of a mixture. If induced by its cheapness to buy low-priced coffee, the coarseness of its flavour may be improved by the addition of a small quantity of chicory powder, at the rate of a couple of ounces to the pound. —= ¢ = TEA. 818.—Tastes differ regarding the flavour of various sorts of tea; some preferring all black; others, all green; and many, » a mixture of both in different quantities; though most persons —when not fearful of their nerves—agree that fine Hyson is the best. A good mixture, in point of flavour, we know to be—2 black, 2 green, and + gunpowder: all being, of course, of superior quality. Presuming all ladies to be intimately acquainted with the mode of making tea, yet, to some, a few hints on the subject may not perhaps be found objectionable. Cuap, XXIX. THA. 569 First, never make it in any other than a highly-polished teapot, for it is a chemical fact that metal retains the heat longer than earthenware; and the better it is polished, the more completely will the liquid be kept hot, and the essence of the tea be extracted. A silver teapot is decidedly the best ; for you will be sure that the metal is not mixed up with zinc or other materials of a pernicious nature. Secondly, see that the water be really bowling, not simmer- ing, as is too commonly the case when taken from an urn, but kept either on the fire until boiled, or in one of those metal teakettles warmed by a spirit lamp, as formerly used by our grandmothers, and now—thanks to good taste in tea-drinking —again coming into fashion. Having well scalded the teapot, then put in the tea, and pour over it about 4 of the water the pot will contain; taking care to keep it as hot as possible for not less than 10 minutes; then fill up the pot, allow it to remain from 6 to 8 minutes longer—though al/ green would require 5 minutes more—for we know, from long experience, that it requires that time to thoroughly draw it; it may then be poured out; but you should always be careful not to drain the pot to the very last cup. For 4 persons, each taking 2 large breakfast-cups, you will require nearly an ounce of good mixed tea; the finer the quality of the tea, the less quantity need be employed. Never add fresh tea to that which has already been made, by way of strengthening it; for it will not have that efiect ; but in case of its being too weak, then put the additional tea into a large teacup, fill it up with boiling water, and leave it there, closely covered, for a few minutes, after which throw the contents into the teapot. The foregoing instructions are in accordance with our mothers’ and grandmothers’ notions of “ making tea well ;” but latterly it has been asserted that a very pernicious quality in tea is extracted from the water standing long upon it. A physician asserts that “ tea-drinkers, in following this plan, put more fees into the physician’s pocket than by any other he knows.” He recommends that 2 teapots should always be used, each of sufficient size to hold the quantity required ; that the whole of the water shall be poured on the tea at once, and not allowed to stand upon it more than three or 4 minutes, when it should be poured into the other teapot, and served from 570 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cnap. XXIX. that. Ifthe party is large, this process must be repeated. By this means all the tea will be of equal strength, and you get the fine aromatic flavour without the injurious matter. We have for some time made tea in this way, and very much approve it. It certainly approaches nearer to the method adopted amongst the Chinese, who have water poured upon the tea in the teacup, and in some parts of India the tea is enclosed in a perforated silver egg, which is put into the pot, and taken out when the infusion is sufficiently strong. e x CHOCOLATE, 819.—If made thin, is not worth drinking; and that which is now commonly sold by the grocers is a compound of flour, or some farinaceous substance, and coarse sugar or treacle, together with a very moderate quantity of real cocoa, and that of the most inferior quality, coloured with Venetian red and brown ochre. If you mean to have really good chocolate, you must, therefore, pay a far higher price than is paid for the trash to which we have alluded. That made in Florence has long been celebrated, and there has been for many years a large manufactory established near Paris by one Menier, which has a very high reputation there; having tried it, we can also recommend it, and it ean be had in London, either of Messrs. Dakin and Co., St. Paul’s Churchyard; or Hedges and Butler, 155, Regent Street. Chocolate forms the common breakfast throughout Spain, and is there made by merely chipping a portion of the cake into which it is formed from the cocoa, leaving the chips in water for a whole night to soften. It may then be slowly warmed, along with either water or milk, working it all the time with the mill, which is a small moveable pole passed through the lid of a chocolate-pot, and furnished with a head- piece in order to mix the chocolate equally by turning the mill rapidly between the hands and without intermission, thus to prevent it from becoming clotty; care, however, should be taken not to let it boil; for, in that case, the vegetable oil which is contained in the nut will be extracted from it and appear on the surface. The flavour is better retained by making it in water than milk. It is always made very thick, so that a small spoon will Cuap. XXX. ENGLISH WINES. 571 nearly stand upright in it, and nothing eaten with it but a rusk, or dry toast : after which there is usually taken a draught of cold spring water. The usual mode of making it is to boil a pint of water in the pot, put to it a cake of chocolate cut into very small slices, mill it off the fire till quite melted, then put it on a gentle fire till it nearly boils, milling it all the time. Pour it inio a basin, and it will keep in a cool place for several days. When used put a couple of tablespoonfuls of it into milk, warm it with sugar, and mill it well. COCOA. 820.—An excellent breakfast beverage may be made by simply pounding the nut—which is the substance of choco- late—and boiling it in the same manner in either water or milk. ‘The best quality is that of Caraccas, which is small, very dark-coloured, and appears as if partly mouldy or broken ; while that usually to be found in the shops is plump and glossy, and the patent sort, or paste, still more inferior; it being always made from the cheapest kind, and not untre- quently from that which has been damaged. Cocoa Shells or Nibs, or, as they are more appropriately called in Ireland, ‘‘ Miserable,” are the thin coverings of the cocoa kernel, and can only be had at some chocolate manu- factory, where they can be bought at a very low price, and form a light food for an invalid, when taken warm. Soak them in water during the whole night, and then boil them in the same water until reduced to 4 the quantity: they should boil 2 hours, and should then be mixed up with milk. a CHAPTER XXX. | ON ENGLISH WINES AND LIQUEURS. ENGLISH WINES. 821.—ENGLIsH wines may be made very advantageously by families who have gardens, as, from the reduced price of sugar, they cost but little comparatively with foreign wines, all of which pay heavy duties. ‘They should, however, be thoroughly fermented, and be made of such strength as to keep sound for 3 572 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap, XXX, or 4 years, and never be drunk until they are more than a year old ; whereas those housewives who look too closely to economy weaken them so much with water as to cause them soon to turn sour. In the south of Europe the grape contains all the chemical properties which enable it to undergo complete fer- mentation, and from which perfect wine can be produced ; but the artificial composition of the fluids on which the maker of domestic wine in England has to operate makes it advisable that a few words should be said upon the subject. The sub- stances essential to vinous fermentation are sugar, vegetable extract, the tartaric or malic acids, and water. None of these can be dispensed with, and it is in the balancing of them that the art greatly consists. Sugar is the most essential of these, as it is from its decomposition that alcohol is derived. The most saccharine juices therefore may be made to produce the strongest wine: hence the absolute necessity of adding sugar to all English fruit, in which the malic acid so largely predominates ; and it is from the judicious mixture of sugar and water with this acid that our best native wines are produced, as by this only will the process of fermentation be effectually carried on. Any one attempting to make wine from the juice of currants or gooseberries, or even ripe grapes, alone, would at once perceive this. The use of brandy is quite unnecessary if the wine is properly fermented, and it keeps sound much better without it. Yeast, also, should never be used in wine made of fresh fruit, as, if the proportions are properly ad- justed, the fluid will ferment of itself. The four following receipts we have used and approved for many years, the first of which may be taken asa guide in almost all sorts of domestic wine made of fresh fruit—the quantities of course varying with the quality of the fruit. If due attention be paid, it may almost be said “never to fail.” The fermentation requires the greatest care, as on it so much depends. If checked too soon, the wine is imperfect, and not so wholesome. If carried on too, far, the aeetous stage commences. It is therefore necessary to watch it with great attention. The process commences within 24 hours of the mixture being made, which is perceived by a slight hissing noise and little bubbles rising on the surface. This will increase when put into the cask, when it will be so loud that it may be heard at some distance, and will continue some weeks. Unless the Wine is intended to be sweet, it should not be closed up till the Cuap. XXX. ENGLISH WINES. 573 hissing has very much subsided. If it is intended to be dry, and represent foreign wine, it should be drawn off into a barrel which has been sulphured. To have it sparkling, the scum which rises in fermenting should be allowed to sink, instead of running out, and the barrel bunged up whilst. the wine still retains a slight tendency to ferment. All wine is improved by being racked off, and a litule isinglass added—about 4 0z. to 10 gallons. ‘This should be done 2 or 8 months before bottling, and not in very hot or very cold weather. WINE FROM UNRIPE GRAPES. 822.—As the stems and husks of grapes give no bad flavour to the fruit, it may be used in any stage of ripening, or dif- ferent degrees may be mixed together. ‘The fruit is in the best state when just beginning to ripen. For every gallon take 5 lbs. of fruit; have-a tub which will hold 15 or 20 gallons ; bruise the grapes into this so thoroughly that if pos- sible every berry shall be mashed; when the whole are in, stalks and all, add 4 gallons of cold spring water; mix all well with the hand till the juice and pulp are separated from the more solid matter; cover the tub, and let it stand 24 hours; strain it through a coarse bag, and squeeze the fruit quite dry; pour a gallon of water over the solid mass, to get any soluble matter which may remain. Put into a tub or cooler 30 lbs. of loaf-sugar; pour the fluid upon it, first mea- suring it; make up with water to the total bulk of 103 gal- lons; mix this until the sugar is dissolved. This is called the must, and is equivalent to the juice of the grape. Cover up the vessel with a board, over which throw a blanket, and let it stand in a moderate temperature for 24 hours or more, ac- cording as it may appear to begin to ferment. Put it into the cask, which should be kept full to the bung-hole, and a little inclined to one side to let the seum work off: you have 3 gal- lon of must for this purpose. There should be a hole near the bung which should be stopped with a wooden peg, and when the bung is closed up the peg should ina day or two be loosened, that the fixed air may have vent: this should be repeated at intervals till the excessive expansion has ceased, when the peg may be driven tight. The best way to keep the bung air-tight is to paste a double piece of brown paper overit. Let the wine remain in a cool cellar till a clear warm day in January, then _ rack it off, and let it stand to the end of March before bottling. - 574 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXX. It will keep for many years. We have some in our cellar made 22 years ago, which is very fine indeed, and perfectly sound. If it isa brisk or champagne wine, it will be very good the following summer. When racked and clarified, the isinzlass should be dissolved in a little of the wine, and well mixed in the barrel. Green Gooseberry Wine may be made in exactly the same_ way. ORANGE WINE. 823.—For 10 gallons take 100 Seville oranges; peel them very thin; press out the juice, and put it, with 30 lbs. of loaf- sugar, into a cask; put the peel into a deep pan, large enough to allow a gallon of cold water to be poured over it; let this stand till the next day, then pour the water over the sugar and juice already in the cask; coverrthe peel again with water, adding it to the cask the next day, and continue to do so until the cask is full. Stir it well every day for 2 or 3 weeks, by which time it will be in full fermentation, which will continue for nearly a couple of months ; after which draw it off, and after taking out the lees, and cleaning out the cask with a dry cloth, dissolve 4 oz. of isinglass in a little of the wine, stir it well in, and bung it up close till the autumn, March being the proper month to make this wine in. It will be found very convenient to have a second cask to rack wine into, which is at once put under the tap, and avoids all splashing and waste. Where the custom is to use casks of the same size, one or two extra ones only are required. PARSNIP WINE, 824.—To every gallon of water take 8 Ibs. of fine clear parsnips and the same weight. of loaf-sugar ; slice the parsnips into the water, and let them boil to a pulp; strain them through a hair sieve, return the liquor into the boiler, and add the sugar; let it boil 4 an hour; when tepid, lay- a toast covered with yeast in it, and cover it, keeping the cooler in a warm place; when it begins to ferment, put it into the cask, taking out the toast. It should not be racked till the autumn, and not bottled in less than a year. Parsnips are best in the winter. All warm fluids to be fermented should be regulated by a thermometer. Tepid is from 85 to 95 degrees. The cold of the weather should regulate the heat between this range. Cuar. XXX. ENGLISH WINES. 575 GINGER WINE. 825.—To every gallon of water take 2 lbs. of loaf-sugar and 2 oz. of bruised ginger; boil them together for an hour; put the liquor into a vessel to cool; when tepid, add the juice and peel of 6 lemons, and a toast covered with yeast; cover it over, and when it begins to ferment put it into the cask ; let it ferment 2 or 3 weeks. Before putting in the bung, put to it 2 lb. of raisins to every gallon; they need not be sténed, but are best just slit open. ‘This wine may be racked in another month, and isinglass put to clarify it. Bottle it in 3 or 4 weeks, and it is soon fit to drink, though, if properly fermented, it will keep a year or two and improve. Amongst the following receipts are many which have long been family favourites ; but as they generally recommend the old-fashioned plan of adding spirits to the wine, in the place of trusting to the process of fermentation for its strength, we cannot ourselves quite approve them; nevertheless there are some from which most excellent wine has been made. A RICH AND PLEASANT WINE. 826.—Take new cider from the press, mix it with as much honey as will support an egg, boil gently 15 minutes, but not in an iron, brass, or copper pot; skim it well; when cool, let it be tunned, but do not quite fill the cask. In March follow- ing bottle it, and it will be fit to drink in 6 weeks, but will be less sweet if kept longer in the cask. You will have a rich and strong wine, and it keeps well. This will serve for any culinary purposes which sack or sweet wine is directed for. Honey is a fine ingredient to assist, and render palatable, new crabbed austere cider; but this should be made from apples that are perfectly sound and of good quality. ENGLISH MALMSEY OR MALT WINEW—E. R. 827.—Take 30 gallons of sweet-wort, and to every gallon put 14 Ib. of lump sugar; boil the liquor for 4 an hour, and when still warm tun it into a barrel, putting 2 lbs. of Malaga raisins coarsely chopped, 2 oz. of dissolved isinglass, and 1 spoonful of yeast to each gallon, adding also 3 oz. of ‘hops for the 80 gallons; stir the liquor with a wooden staff every day for a fortnight or longer; keep the bung lightly in until the fermentation ceases, then add 2 gallons of brandy ; let the wine a 576 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cnap. XXX, stand 12 months, when it may be racked off and bottled. It | will be the better for long keeping, and will answer well for all culinary purposes. Or :—Take 33 gallons of new ale from the vat whilst fer- menting, 53 gallons of cold spring water ; to every gallon add 3 lbs. of sugar; mix all well together till the sugar is dis- solved ; put ‘it at once into the cask, and set it in a warm place to ferment, which it ought to do for 6 or 7 weeks; chop 2 lbs. of Malaga raisins and $ Ib. of bitter almonds together ; put them into a widednbutbied bottle, and add a pint of brandy ; - cork it up till the wine has done fermenting, then put it into the cask, and bung it down close; let it stand 6 or 7 months, clear it off into another cask, adding 4 oz. of isinglass dissolved in a little of the wine; let it stand another month, then bottle it. This has been proved to be an excellent receipt. GRAPE WINE.—E. R. 828.—Take 20 lbs. of grapes very ripe and picked clean, pour upon them 6 quarts of boiling water, cover them close, and before they are cold break the grapes with the hand; let them stand 3 days, then strain them as dry as possible, and stir into the liquor 10 lbs. of sugar; tun it the next day, and it will work itself pure; lay the bung on it until it has done hissing. RAISIN WINEH.—E. R. 829.—To every 6 gallons of water put 2 oz. of hops and the largest stalks of the Malaga raisins, and boil it for + of an hour; strain it, and when nearly cold pour it on the fruit, allowing 63 lbs., of which one-fifth should be Smyrna raisins, to every gallon of water; let it stand for 6 weeks, stirring it every day; press the fruit, and then put the liquor into the cask ; rack it in 6 weeks, or as soon as it is fine, and to every 6 gallons add a bottle of the best French brandy. Excellent Raisin Wine.—To every gallon of spring water put 8 lbs. of fresh Smyrnas in a large tub; stir it thoroughly every day for a month; then press the raisins in a horse-hair bag as dry as possible; put the liquor into a cask, and, when it has done hissing, pour in a bottle of the best brandy ; stop it close for 12 months; then rack it off, but without the dregs ; filter them through a bag of flannel of 3 or 4 folds; add the clear to the quantity, and pour 1 or 2 quarts of brandy, Cap. XXX. ENGLISH WINES. 577 according to the size of the vessel. Stop it up, and at the end of 3 years you may either bottle it or drink it from the cask. Raisin wine would be extremely good if made rich of the fruit, and kept long, which improves the flavour greatly. Raisin Wine with Cider.—Put 2 ewt. of Malaga raisins into a cask, and pour upon them a hogshead of good sound cider that is not rough; stir it well 2 or 3 days; stop it, and let it stand 6 months; then rack into a cask that it will fill, and put in a gallon of the best brandy. If raisin wine be much used, it would answer well to keep a cask always for it, and bottle off 1 year’s wine just in time to make the rest, which, allowing the 6 months of infusion, would make the wine to be 18 months old. In cider counties this way is very economical ; and, even if not thought strong enough, the addition of another + cwt. of raisins would be sufficient, and the wine would still be very cheap. When the raisins are pressed through a horsehair bag, they will either produce a good spirit by distillation (for which purpose they must be very little pressed) ; or they will make excellent vinegar. The stalks, being very acid, should be picked out, and may be thrown into any cask of vinegar that is being made. CURRANT WINE —E. R. 830.—To each gallon of juice put 2 of water and 33 Ibs. of moist sugar. When it has been in the cask about a fortnight, put a bottle of brandy to every 4 gallons of wine, and, when it has quite done hissing, bung it down close. Or :—To every 3 pints of fruit, carefully cleared from any that is mouldy or bad, put 1 quart of water; bruise the former. In 24 hours strain the liquor, and put to every quart 1 lb. of sugar, of good middling quality of Lisbon. If for white currants use lump-sugar. It is best to put the fruit, &e., in a large pan; and when in 8 or 4 days the scum rises, take that off before the liquor is put into the barrel. Those who make from their own gardens may not have sufficient to fill the barrel at once: the wine will not be hurt if made in the pan in the above proportions, and added as the fruit ripens, and can be gathered in dry weather. Keep an account of what is put in each time. Another way.—Put 5 quarts of currants and a pint of rasp- berries to every 2 gallons of water; let them soak a night; a0 578 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Osar. XXX. then squeeze and break them well. Next day rub them well — on a fine wire sieve till all the juice is obtained, washing the ‘skins again with some of the water ; thelibto every gallon put — 4 lbs. of very good Lisbon sugar, but not white, which is often adulterated ; tun it immediately, and lay the bung lightly on; do not use anything to work it. In 2 or 3 days put a bottle of brandy to every 4 gallons; bung it close, but leave the peg out at top a few days; keep it 3 or 4 years, and it will be a very fine agreeable wine. BLACK CURRANT WINE (very fine). 831.—To every 3 quarts of juice put the same of water un- boiled, and to every 3 quarts of the liquor add 3 lbs. of very pure moist sugar; put it into a cask, reserving a little for filling up; put the cask in a warm dry room, and the liquor will ferment of itself; skim off the refuse when the fermenta- tion shall be over, and fill up with the reserved liquor; when it has ceased working, pour 3 quarts of brandy to 40 quarts of wine; bung it close for 9 months, then bottle it, and drain the thick part through a jelly-bag until it be clear, and bottle that; keep it 10 or 12 months. ‘This recipe is most excellent. The wine will keep for 6 years. Or :—Bruise 28 lbs. of currants, and pour upon them 2 gallons of water; let them remain 24 hours, then ‘strain off the liquor, adding 14 lbs. of pure moist or loaf sugar; put the whole into a clean cask. In the following spring rack the liquor, and run the grounds through a jelly-bag; then put it into a clean cask, and adda bottle of brandy. ‘The above proportions will make 5 gallons of wine. GOOSEBERRY WINE. 832.—T'o every 3 lbs. of gooseberries put a pint of spring water unboiled, having first bruised the fruit with the hands in a tub; stir them very well; let them stand a whole day, then strain them off, and to every 8 lbs. of gooseberries add a pint of water and 1 Ib. of sugar dissolved; let it stand 24 hours longer, then skim the head clean off, and put the liquor into a vessel, and the scum into a flannel bag, adding the liquor that drains from it to that in the vessel; let it work 2 or 3 days before stopping it up close, and allow it to stand 4 months before it is bottled. When it is drawn out of the cask it should not be tapped too low. ow FE ale "8 atte £e Fs Cuap. XXX. ENGLISH WINES. 579 Green Gooseberry Wine.—Take 32 quarts of unripe goose- berries of the green kind, bruise them well, add 32 quarts of cold water; let them stand for 24 hours; drain the gooseberries well from the liquor through a sieve; put 34 Ibs. of lump- sugar to every gallon of liquor ; put it into a cask with a bottle of the best gin; let it stand 6 months, and then bottle it. This is a receipt from a nobleman’s butler, who used to boast that he never opened more than one bottle of Cham- pagne at his master’s table at one dinner, all that followed being of his own manufacture. CHAMPAGNE—E. R. 833.—Bruise well the amber hairy Champagne gooseberries, when they are just turning, in an equal quantity of cold spring water. Let the mixture stand for 2 or 8 days to ferment, and stir it frequently with a wooden spoon, taking care to place the vessel in a warm situation. Then pass the liquor through a hair sieve, squeezing the pulp until it is quite dry. For every gallon of the liquor put 34 lbs. of the coarsest East India sugar, which must be placed in another vessel, and the acid liquor poured upon it. Allow it to stand 2 or 8 days, in order that the fermentation may be properly effected, stirring it very frequently: then pass it through a flannel bag into the cask, and to every 10 gallons of the liquor put 1 oz. of isin- glass, 1 bottle of Madeira wine, and 1 bottle of rum; the 2 latter added after the cask has remained open for a month. A cask which has held brandy is to be preferred. Put in the bung after the expiration of the month; lay a piece of coarse cloth over it, and cover the whole with a thick coat of resin. Let it stand 12 months, and then bottle it.* Pink Champagne.—Boil 9 lbs. of lump-sugar in 38 gallons of water for 4 an hour, skim it well, and pour the liquor boil- ing hot over a gallon of red and white currants picked, but not bruised. When nearly cold, put in a small teacupful of yeast. Keep it working for 2 days, then strain it through a horse-hair sieve, put it into a small cask with 4 oz. of isinglass. * A sample of this wine was sent to the Horticultural Society of Edin- burgh, and exhibited amongst 70 different sorts, and, being pronounced the best, the honour of the gold medal was awarded to it; but on its being un- derstood that the fruit was of English growth, it was considered as a foreign wine, and therefore not entitled to the prize. Honourable mention of it was, however, made in the Report of the Transactions of the Society. Fag oD 580 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Car. XXX. Have rather more liquor than will fill the cask to fill it up as — it works over. In about a fortnight bung it up. Let it stand till April; put into each bottle a lump of double-refined _ sugar. Let the bottles remain 1 day uncorked. Cork and wire them. They must stand upright in the cellar; when- wanted, put a few on their sides for about a week. oi Grape Champagne to equal foreign.—Gather the grapes when they are just turning, or about half ripe. Pound them in a tub, and to every quart of fruit put 2 quarts of water. Let it stand in a mash-tub for 14 days, then draw it off, and to every gallon of liquor add 3 Ibs. of lump-sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, cask it, and, after it has done working, bung it down. In about 6 months it will be fit to drink, when it should be bottled, and the corks tied down, or wired if it is to be kept more than a year, LEMON WINE. 834.—To every gallon of water take 3 Ibs. of sugar ; boil” | it 4 an hour; pour it on the peel of 4 lemons; make the juice into a syrup by boiling it with 3 lb. of the sugar; mix all well together; when cool lay on ai a toast covered with” ; yeast; let it stand 2 days, when the fermentation will have’ commenced; put it into the barrel, keep it filled up to heme top till the fermentation subsides ; Dane it down yaks, and bottle it in 3 months. FRONTINIAC.—E. R. 835.—Boil 18 lbs. of white sugar in 6 gallons of water with’ 2 whites of eggs well beaten. Skim it and put in $ peck of? elder-flowers: do not keep them on the fire: when nearly’ cold, stir it, and add 6 spoonfuls of lemon-juice and 4 or 5 of yeast ; beat the whole well into the liquor. Stir it every day, put 6 lbs. of the best raisins, stoned, into the cask, and tun the wine. -Stop it close, and bottle it at the end of 6 months. This wine requires keeping. F ELDER WINE.—E. R. 836.—Pour 4 quarts of water upon 8 quarts of berries, and let it stand a day or two; then boil it for about an hour, strain: it, and put 3 Ibs. of moist sugar to every gallon of wine; then add 1 oz. of cloves and cinnamon, with 2 oz. of ginger ; boil it again, and work it with a toast dipped: in yeast. Eg mY _bott nel e pd Cuar. XXX. ENGLISH WINES. 581 Elder-flower Wine.—Take 12 Ibs. of loaf-sugar and 6 lbs. vf the best raisins, cut small, and boil them in 6 gallons of water for 1 hour. ‘Then take } % a peck of elder-flowers, when ready to shake: put them into the liquor when it is nearly cold, with 4 tablespoonfuls of fresh yeast and 6 of lemon- juice. Let it work 2 days in the tub, then strain it, put it into the barrel, bung it up closely for 2 months, and then le it. _ These are excellent domestic wines, generally taken mulled, wi ith dry toast; and the flavour will be improved if, while warming, a grating of nutmeg be added. BLACKBERRY WINE —E. R. 837.—Let the berries be gathered when fully ripe, and on ‘a dry day. Put them into a tub or cask, with the head out, and with a tap fitted near the bottom ; pour on them as much boiling water as will cover them, or to 6 measures of black- _ berries. 1 of water may be used. As soon as the heat will permit, mash the berries»with your hands until they are well broken, and let them stand covered till the pulp rises to the top and forms a crust, which it will do in 8 or 4 days. Then draw off the fluid into another vessel, and to every gallon add 1 Ib. of sugar, mix it well, and put it into a cask to work for a week or 10 days, and throw off any remaining lees, keep- ing the cask well filled, particularly at the commencement. When the working has ceased, bung it down, and after 6 or 12 months it-may be bottled. 3 CLARY WINE. - d 838.—Boil 15 gallons of water with 45 lbs# Si sugar ; skim it: when cool, put a little to 1 pint of yeast, and so by degrees add a little more. In an hour pour the small quantity to the large, pour the liquor on clary-flowers, picked in the dry: the quantity for the above is 12 quarts. Those who gather from their own garden may not have sufficient. to put in at once, and may add as they can get them, keeping account of each quart. When it ceases to hiss, and the flowers are all in, stop it for 4 months. Rack it off, empty the barrel of the dregs, and, adding a gallon of the best brandy, stop it up, and let it stand 6 or 8 weeks, then bottle it. + - COWSLIP WINE. * * 839.—To every gallon of water weigh 3 Ibs. of lump-sugar, 2 » 682 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cap. XXX. boil the quantity 4 an hour, taking off the scum as it rises. When cool enough, put to it a crust of toasted bread dipped in thick yeast, let the liquor ferment in a tub 36 hours; then into the cask put for every gallon the peel of 2 and rind of 1 lemon, and both of 1 Seville orange, and 1 gallon of cowslip- pips; then pour on them the liquor. It must be carefully stirred every day for a week; then to every 5 gallons put in a bottle of brandy. Let the cask be close stopped, and stand only 6 weeks before you bottle it off. Use the best corks. GINGER WINE.—E. R. 840.—Boil 9 quarts of water with 6 lbs. of lump-sugar, the rinds of 2 or 8 lemons very thinly pared, with 2 oz. of bruised white ginger, 4 an hour. Skim. Put ¢ lb. of raisins into the cask: when the liquor is lukewarm, tun it with the juice of 2 lemons strained, and 14 spoonful of yeast. Stir it daily, then put in 4 pint of brandy and 3 oz. of isinglass-shavings : stop it up, and bottle it in 6 or 7 weeks. Do not put the lemon-peel into the barrel. Or :—Boil 24 oz. of ginger for aff hour in sufficient water to cover it; take 386 good lemons, pare them very thin, and pour the boiling ginger upon the peel. Let it stand a day or two, then squeeze the lemons; strain the juice, and put it into the cask, adding 40 lbs. of fine raw sugar and 14 lbs. of Malaga raisins chopped; slice the ginger and put it into the cask with the liquor it was boiled in. Fill up the cask with cold spring water, stir it frequently, and in 1 month put in 2 bottles of brandy, and stop it down. ‘These proportions are for 20 gallons of wine. | GINGER BEER—E. R. 841.—Slice 4 lemons and crush 2 02. of ginger, add to them 13 lb. of lump-sugar and 2 oz. of cream of tartar, or the same amount of lemon-juice. Pour on it 2 gallons of boiling water, _ and when nearly cold add a tablespoonful of barm. Bottle it the next morning, and tie down the corks. It will be fit to drink in 2 days. ; Another.—Pour a gallon of boiling water upon ¢ Ib. of loaf-sugar, 1 oz. each of ground ginger and cream of tartar, and the peel of 1 lemon; when cool add the juice of the lemon and a tallespoonful of yeast ; cover it and let it stand till the next day; strain it, taking care not to stir up the sediment ; Onap.- XXX. ENGLISH WINES. 583 bottle it in stone bottles, tie down the corks, and it will be fit to drink in 2 days. EGG WINE, 842.—Beat an egg, and mix with it a spoonful of cold water; set on the fire a glass of white wine, 4 a glass of water, a little sugar, and nutmeg. When it boils, pour it to the egg by degrees, stirring it well: then return the whole into the saucepan, put it on a gentle fire, stir it one way for not more than a minute; for if it boil, or the ege be oe: it will curdle. Serve with dry toast. Egg wine may be made as above, without warming the egg, and it is then lighter on the stomach, though not so pleasant to the taste. Or :—It may be done without any other preparation than merely breaking the yolk of a raw egg or two into a tumbler of hot negus or spirit and water, mixing it all the while: if the whites be added, they will occasion froth, but not improve the flavour. TO MULL WINE. 843.—Boil a bit of cinnamon, a few cloves and allspice, and some grated nutmeg a few minutes in a large teacupful of water: then put to it a pint of port wine, and add sugar to your taste; beat it up, and it will be ready. It may also be made of good British or foreign red wine ; and is much used throughout the north of Germany under the name of “ Bischopf.” NEGUS.—E. R. 844,—-1 bottle of wine, 4 lb. of sugar, and a lemon sliced. Pour 3 pints of boiling water upon this mixture, and grate nutmeg to the taste. Such is the common mode of making negus; for making a single tumblerful, however, as many people prefer to do it in their own way, perhaps a better plan is to use only half the quantity of water, poured boiling hot upon the wine already sweetened and flavoured with nutmeg; but having in it also a large and very thin cut rind of Seville orange, which gives it a very superior flavour, without any portion of the acid. The negus may be made of either white or red wine ; and, if drunk cold, is called “ sangaree.” The following is a French receipt :—1 Ib. of ics, 4 lbs. of currants, 2 lbs. of black cherries; squeeze all together, * 584 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar. XXX. then let it stand in a cool cellar for 3 days; put the juice on the fire in a preserving-pan, and allow it to bubble; add sugar as for raspberry vinegar, and bottle it. ‘This makes a delicious summer beverage. See @ . | ao @ — Cuar, XXXI. COOKERY FOR THE SICK. wale 593 wash it 2 or 3 times; then soak it in fresh water 5 or 6 hours, and simmer it in the same until it becomes quite clear; then put lemon-juice, wine, and sugar. The peel should have been boiled in it. It thickens very much. Bread.—Take a penny roll, pare off the crust, and cut the crumb into thin slices; toast them on both sides of a light pale brown. Put them into a quart of spring water, let it simmer gently over the fire until the liquid becomes a jelly, strain it through a thin cloth, and flavour it witha little lemon- juice and sugar, added when hot. If wine be permitted, it is an improvement. ‘This jelly is of so strengthening a nature, that 1 teaspoonful affords more nourishment than a teacupful of any other. It may be prepared without the lemon-juice and sugar, aud a teaspoonful put into every liquid the patient takes, such as tea, coffee, broth, or beef tea. Gloucester Jelly is made with rice, sago, pearl-barley, harts- horn-shavings, and eringo-root, each 1 oz.; simmer with 3 pints of water to 1, and strain it. When cold it will be a jelly. It may be taken dissolved in wine, milk, or broth, as a variety, with other nourishment. BROTHS. 858.—Of Beef, Mutton, and Veal.—Put 2 lbs. of lean beef, 1 lb. of scrag of veal, 1 lb. of scrag of mutton, sweet herbs, and 10 peppercorns, into a saucepan, with 5 quarts of water; simmer to 3 quarts, and clear off the fat when cold. Add 1 onion, if approved. Soup or broth made of different meats is more supporting, as well as better flavoured. To remove the fat, take it off when cold as clean as pos- sible; and if there be still any remaining, lay a bit of clean blotting-paper on the broth when in the basin, and it will take up every particle. Or, if the broth is wanted before there is time to let it get cold, put a piece of cork up the narrow end of a funnel, pour the broth into it, let it stand for a few minutes, and the fat will rise to the top; remove the cork, and draw off into a basin as much of the broth as is wanted, which will be perfectly free from fat. Calf’s Feet Broth.—Boil 2 feet in 3 quarts of water till reduced to $; strain and set it by; when to be used, take off the fat, put a large teacupful of the jelly into a saucepan, te. a e - 594 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXXI, © with 4a glass of sweet wine, a little sugar and nutmeg, and beat it up till it is quite hot; then take a little of itand add by degrees to the yolk of an egg, well beaten with a bit of butter the size of a nutmeg ; stir it all together, but do not let it boil. Grate a piece of fresh lemon-peel into it. Or :—Boil 2 calf’s-feet, 2 oz. of veal, and 2 of beef, the bottom ofa penny loaf, 2 or 3 blades of mace, 4 a nutmeg sliced, and a little salt, in 3 quarts of water, to 3 pints; strain, and take off the fat. Chicken Broth may be made of any young fowl which is afterwards to be brought to table; but the best sort is to be procured from an old cock or hen, which is to be stewed down to rags, with a couple of onions, seasoned with salt and a little whole pepper; skim and strain it. A weaker kind.—After taking off the skin and rump of a fowl, from the white meat of which chicken panada has been made, put the body and legs into the water it was boiled in, with 1 blade of mace, 1 slice of onion, and 10 white pepper- corns. Simmer till the broth be of a pleasant flavour. If not water enough, add a little. Beat + oz. of sweet almonds with a teaspoonful of water, boil it in the broth, strain, and when cold remove the fat. Eel Broth.—Clean 3 lb. of small eels, and set them on with 3 pints of water, some parsley, 1 slice of onion, a few pepper- corns; let them simmer till the eels are broken, and the broth good, or reduced to 14 pint. Add salt, and strain it off. It is very nutritious. A clear Broth that will keep long.—Put the mouse-round of beef, a knuckle-bone of veal, and a few shanks of mutton, into a deep pan, and cover close with a dish or coarse crust; © bake till the beef is done enough for eating, with only as much water as will cover it. When the broth is cold, cover it close, and keep it in a cool place. When it is to be used, give what flavour may be best liked. For a quick-made Broth—Take a bone or two of a neck or loin of mutton, take off the fat and skin, set it on the fire in a small tin saucepan that has a cover, with ¢ of a pint of water, the meat being first beaten and cut in thin bits; put a bit of thyme and parsley, and, if approved, a slice of onion. Let it boil very quickly ; skim it; take off the cover if likely 2 .. Cuar, XXXI. COOKERY FOR THE SICK. — 595 5° to be too weak, else cover it. Half an hour is sufficient for the whole process. A Broth very supporting against any kind of weakness may be made of 2 lbs. of loin of mutton, with a very large handful of chervil in 2 quarts of water. Take off part of the | fat. Any other herbs or roots may be added. Give 4 a pint 3 or 4 times a-day. Or :—Put the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of veal with very little meat to it, an old fowl, 4 shank-bones of mutton extremely well soaked and bruised, 3 blades of mace, 10 pep- percorns, an onion, a large bit of bread, and 3 quarts of water, into a stewpot, cover it close; let it simmer slowly after it has boiled up and been skimmed; or bake it; strain, and take off the fat. Salt as wanted. It will require 4 hours. On the subject of skimming off the fat which rises on the broth, an eminent physician has stated that, ‘in cases of coughs and colds which affect the chest, the fat should not be re- moved: more particularly that of mutton broth, which is eminently useful in calming the irritation of the lungs.” An excellent Soup for the weakly is made by putting 2 cow-heels and a breast of mutton into a large pan with 4 oz. of rice, 1 onion, 20 Jamaica peppers and 20 black, a turnip, a carrot, and 4 gallons of water; cover with brown paper, and bake 6 hours. Or :—Put a teacupful of sago into a quart of water, and a bit of lemon-peel; when thickened grate some ginger, and add 4 a pint of raisin wine, brown sugar, and 2 spoonfuls of geneva ; boil all up together. _ This is a most supporting soup for those whom disease has left very feeble. BEEF TEA—E. R. 859.—Cut 1 Ib. of fleshy beef in thin slices; simmer with a quart of water 14 hour after it has once boiled and been skimmed. Season, if approved; but it wants generally only a little salt. To drink cold.—Take 1 lb. of lean beef, clear it from every particle of skin, fat, or sinew, rasp or divide it into very small pieces; then put it into a jar, and pour a quart of boiling water upon it; plunge the jar into a kettle of boiling water, let it stand by the side of the fire, but not near enough - to simmer, and allow it to grow cold. Then strain the beef- JERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuar, XXXI, tea through a muslin sieve, and, if the patient be very delicate, filter it through blotting-paper. This tea is to be taken when cold, and will remain upon the stomach when other nourishment fails; it may be given to infants. : EGGS. 860.—An egg broken into a cup of tea, or beaten and mixed with a basin of milk, makes a breakfast more supporting than tea alone. An egg divided, and the yolk and white beaten separately, with a little wine put to each, will afford 2 very wholesome draughts, and prove lighter than when taken together. Eggs very little boiled, or poached, taken in small quantity, convey much nourishment: the yolk only, when dressed, should be eaten by invalids. PANADA. 861.— To make it in five minutes.—Set a little water on the fire with a glass of white wine, some sugar, and a scrape of nut- meg and lemon-peel: meanwhile grate some crumbs of bread. The moment the mixture boils up, keeping it still on the fire, put the crumbs in, and let it boil as fast as it can. When of a proper thickness just to drink, take it off. Another way.—Make as above, but, instead of a glass of Wine, put in a teaspoonful of rum and a bit of butter; sugar as above. ‘This is a most pleasant mess, but may perhaps be objected to by the physician. Or :—Put to the water a bit of lemon-peel, mix the crumbs in, and, when nearly boiled enough, put some lemon or orange syrup. Observe to boil all the ingredients, for, if any be added after, the panada will break and not jelly. Chicken Panada.—Boil a chicken till about three parts ready in a quart of water; take off the skin, cut the white meat off when cold, and pound it to a paste with a little of the water it was boiled in, season with salt, a grate of nutmeg, and the least bit of lemon-peel. Boil gently for a few minutes to the consistency you like; it should be as thick as custard. This conveys great nourishment in a small compass. SIPPETS, * when the stomach will not receive meat, are very nutritious, and prepared in this simple manner :— Cuar. XXXI. COOKERY FOR THE SICK, ~ 597 862.—On an extremely hot plate put 2 or 3 sippets of bread, and pour over them some gravy from beef, mutton, or veal, with which no butter has been mixed. Sprinkle a little salt over. Or :—Take a French roll; cut it crosswise in slices of about + of an inch thick, and soak them in boiled milk until they have imbibed as much as they will take; then drain them, cover them with a coating of egg-batter, and fry them in a cheese- toaster. When served, powder them simply with white sugar, with or without a slight grating of nutmeg. CAUDLE 863.—Is made in various ways. Make a fine smooth gruel of half-grits; strain it when boiled well; stir it at different times till cold. When to be used, add sugar, wine, and lemon- peel, with nutmeg. Some like a spoonful of brandy besides the wine ; others like lemon-juice. Or :—Boil up 4 a pint of fine gruel, with a bit of butter the size of a large nutmeg, a large spoonful of brandy, the same of white wine, 1 of capillaire, a bit of lemon-peel, and nutmeg. Another.—Into a pint of fine gruel, not thick, put, while it is boiling-hot, the yolk of an egg beaten with sugar, and mixed with a large spoonful of cold water, a glass of wine, and nut- meg. Mix by degrees. It is very agreeable and nourishing. Some like gruel, with a glass of table-beer, sugar, &c., with or without a teaspoonful of brandy. Posset.—Boil the grated crumb of a penny loaf in a pint of water, with the grated peel of a Seville orange, till the mix- ture be clear and thick: then add 3 oz. of sweet and 1 oz. of bitter almonds, $ the juice of an orange or any other kind of fruit, 4 oz. of sugar, and 1 pint of mountain wine. Cold Caudle.—Boila pint of spring-water ; when cold, add the yolk of an egg, the juice of a small lemon, 6 spoonfuls of sweet wine, sugar to your taste, and syrup of lemons | oz. flour Caudle.—Into 5 large spoonfuls of water rub sma 1 dessertspoonful of fine flour. Set over the fire 5 spoonful of new milk, and put 2 bits of sugar into it; the moment it boils pour into it the flour and water, and stir it over a slow fire 20 minutes. Jt is anourishing and gently astringent food. This is an excellent food for babies who have weak bowels. Rice Caudle.—When the water boils, pour into it some ground rice mixed with a little cold water; when of a proper 598 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuur. XXXL consistency, add sugar, lemon-peel, and cinnamon, and a glass of brandy to a quart. Boil all smooth. Or :—Soak some Carolina he in water an hour, strain it, and put 2 spoonfuls of the rice into 14 pint of milk: simmer till it will pulp through a sieve; then put the pulp and milk into the saucepan, with a bruised clove and a bit of white sugar. Simmer 10 minutes; if too thick, add a spoonful or two of milk ; and serve with thin toast. Caudle for the sick and lying-in.—Set 3 quarts of water on the fire ; mix smooth as much oatmeal as will thicken the whole with a pint of cold water; when boiling, pour the latter in, and 20 Jamaica peppers in fine powder; boil toa good middling thickness; then add sugar, $ a pint of well- fermented table-beer, and a glass of gin: boil all together. This mess sent to any poor woman twice, and broth once or twice, will be of incalculable service. VARIOUS PREPARATIONS. 864.—Saloop.—Boil a little water, wine, lemon-peel, and sugar together; then mix with a small quantity of the pow- der, previously rubbed smooth with a little cold water; stir it all together, and boil it a few minutes. Milk Porridge.— Make a fine gruel of half-grits, long boiled; strain off; either add cold milk, or warm with milk, as may be approved. This‘is a most wholesome breakfast for children. French Milk Porridge.— Stir some oatmeal and water together; let it stand to be clear, and pour off the latter; pour fresh water upon it, stir it well, let it stand till next day ; strain through a fine sieve, and boil the water, adding milk. The proportion of water must be small. Abroad this is much ordered, with toast, for the breakfast of weak persons. 77 prevent the earthy taste soak it in cold water T hour, pour that off, and wash it well; then add more, and simmer gently till. the seeds are clear, with lemon-peel and spice, if approved. Add wine and sugar, and boil all up together. Sago Milk.— Cleanse as above, and boil it slowly, and wholly with new milk. It swells so much, that a small quantity will be sufficient for a quart, and when done it Cuap. XXXI. COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 599 will be diminished to about a pint. It requires no sugar or flavouring, Ground Rice Milk. — Boil 1 spoonful of ground rice, rubbed down smooth, with 14 pint of milk, a bit of cinnamon, lemon-peel, and nutmeg. Sweeten when nearly done. Water Gruel.—Put a large spoonful of oatmeal by degrees into a pint ater, and when smooth boil it. Or :—Rub smooth 1 large spoonful of oatmeal with 2 of water, and pour it into a pint of water boiling on the fire; stir it well and boil it quickly, but take care it does not boil over. In } of an hour strain it off; when eaten add salt and a bit of butter. Stir until the butter be incorporated. Barley Gruel.—Wash 4 oz. of ager boil it in 2 quarts of water with a stick of cinna- 3 mon, till reduced to a quart; strain and return it into the saucepan with sugar and ? pint of port wine. Heat up, and use as wanted. THE ETNA. 865.—This useful little machine is almost indispensable in a sick-room. It enables you to have a pint of water boiled in a few minutes by means of a small quantity of spirits of wine burnt in the saucer under the cup. A little measure is sold with ne it, by which the quantity required The Etna. can be regulated according to whether the fluid to be heated is required to be boiled or only warmed. ASSES’ MILK 866.—Far surpasses any imitation of it that can be made. It should be milked into a glass that is kept warm by being in a basin of hot water. The fixed air that it contains gives some people a pain in the stomach. At first a teaspoonful of rum may be taken with it, but should only be put in the moment it is to be swallowed. The animal should always be milked at the door. Artificial Asses’ Miik.— Boil together 1 quart of water, 1 quart of new milk, 1 oz. of white sugar-candy, 4 oz. of eringo- root, and 4 oz. of conserve of roses, till half be wasted. 600 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXXI. This is astringent, therefore proportion the doses to the effect, and the quantity to what will be used while sweet. Or :—Mix 2 spoonfuls of boiling water, 2 of milk, and an ego well beaten; sweeten with pounded white sugar-candy. This may be taken twice or thrice a-day. Or :—Boil 2’0z. of hartshorn shavings, 2 oz. of pearl-barley, 2 oz. of candied eringo-root, and 1 dozen of snails that have been bruised, in 2 quarts of water to 1. Mix with an equal quantity of new milk when taken twice a-day. It should, however, be observed, that, although these pre- parations are all good in a certain degree, and some perhaps better, in a medical point of view, yet they do not afford the nutriment obtained from the original milk, pea in con- sumptive complaints. DR. BOERHAAVE’S SWEET BUTTERMILK. 867.—Take the milk from the cow into a small churn; in about 10 minutes begin churning, and continue till the flakes of butter swim about pretty thick, and the milk is discharged of all the greasy particles, and appears thin and blue. Strain it through a sieve, and drink it frequently. It should form the whole of the patient’s drink, and the food should be biscuits and rusks in every way and sort, ripe and dried fruits of various kinds, when a decline is apprehended. Baked and dried fruits—raisins in particular—make excel- lent suppers for invalids, with biscuits or common cake. Buttermilk, although thus recommended and generally thought most "agreeable when made from sweet cream, is, howev rer, by some preferred when sowr, and is considered as more wholesome when in that state, as being lighter on the stomach. WHEY.—E. R. 868.—Put 1 pint of warm milk into a vessel before the fire, and add to it 4 a tablespoonful of rennet. When the curd forms, cut it into squares to allow the whey to escape. Then put it on a sieve, and drain it carefully. The milk may also be turned with lemon-juice; and the curds may be eaten with sugar and nutmeg, but not by a sick person. In Ireland rennet is never used for this purpose ; the mode there being to turn the sweet milk with a mixture of sour buttermilk. It is then called “ two-milk whey,” and is far pre Beall Omar. XXXI. COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 601 ferable to the English plan, having a slight but most pleasant acidity, and a greenish hue of perfect transparency. White Wine Whey.—Put 4 pint of new milk on the fire; the moment it boils up pour in as much sound raisin wine as will completely turn it, and make it look clear; let it boil up, then set the saucepan aside till the curd subsides, and do not stir it. Pour the whey off, and add to it 4 pint of boiling water and a bit of white sugar. Thus you will have a whey perfectly cleared of milky particles, and as weak as you choose to make it. Vinegar and Lemon Whey. — Pour into boiling milk as much vinegar or lemon-juice as will make a small quantity quite clear, dilute with hot water to an agreeable acid, add a bit or two of sugar. This is less heating than if made of wine, and, if only to excite perspiration, answers as well. DRINKS. 869.—A soft and fine draught for those who are weak and have a cough may be made thus :—Beat a fresh-laid egg, and mix it with } pint of new milk warmed, a large spoonful of capillaire, the same of rose-water, and a little nutmeg. Do not warm it after the egg is putin. Take it the first and last thing. yaaa agreeable draught is made by putting into a tumbler of fresh cold water a tablespoonful of capillaire and the same of good vinegar. Tamarinds, currants, fresh or in jelly, or scalded currants or cranberries, make excellent drinks, with a little sugar or not as may be agreeable. A refreshing Drink in a Fever.—Put a little green sage, 2 sprigs of balm, and a little wood-sorrel, into a stone jug, having first washed and dried them; peel thin a small lemon, and clear from the white; slice it, and puta bit of the peel in; then pour in 3 pints of boiling water, sweeten and cover it close. Perhaps no drink, however, is more refreshing in such a case than weak green tea, into which lemon-juice is infused instead of milk. It may be drunk either cold or hot, but the latter is the best mode. Toast and Water.—Toast slowly a thin piece of bread till extremely brown and hard, but not the least wack; then 2D ‘ae 602 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Onap. XXXI. plunge it into a jug of cold water, and cover it over an hour before used. This is of particular use in weak bowels. It should be of a fine brown colour. Barley Water.—1 oz. of pearl-barley, 4 0z. of white sugar, and the rind of a lemon, put into a jug. Pour upon it 1 quart of boiling water, and let it stand for 8 or 10 hours; then strain off the liquor, adding a slice of lemon, if desirable. ‘This infusion makes a most delicious and nutritious beverage, and will be grateful to persons who cannot drink the horrid decoction usually given. It is an admirable basis for lemonade, negus, or weak punch, a glass of rum being the proportion for a quart. Barley Water with Honey.—Add the juice and rind of 1 lemon to 1 tablespoonful of honey and 2 teacupfuls of barley ; put it into a jug, and pour a quart of boiling water upon it. Barley Water with Isinglass.—A tablespoonful of pearl- barley, 6 lumps of loaf-sugar, $ a lemon, and enough isinglass to clear it. Pour 2 quarts of boiling spring water on these ingredients, and let it stand until cold. Soda Water.—Dissolve 6 drachms of dried carbonate of soda in a quart bottle of water, and 43 drachms of tartaric acid in another bottle of the same size; pour out a wineglass- ful from each bottle, and throw them at the same time into a tumbler, when it will immediately effervesce; it should be drunk in this state. This is a good soda water, and a dozen glasses thus prepared will not cost more than 1s. 3d. or 1s. 6d. If 10 drops of the muriated tincture of iron be previously put into the tumbler a most excellent and agreeable tonic mineral water is produced, which strengthens the tone of the digestive organs in a very remarkable degree. . Lemon Water is also a delightful drink. Put 2 slices of lemon thinly pared into a teapot, a little bit of the peel, and a large spoonful of capillaire; pour in a pint of boiling water, and stop it close 2 hours. A refreshing Drink for the Sick.—Boil 2 oz. of hartshorn shavings in 1 quart of water; when quite dissolved set it aside to settle, and before it is cold strain it through a tammy upon 2 a lemon sliced thin, with sugar to taste; cover it and let it remain till cold, mixing with it a glass of Moselle or French wine. ea * Cuar. XXXI. COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 603 Apple Water is very delicate: Cut 2 large apples in slices, and pour 1 quart of boiling water on them; or on roasted apples; strain in 2 or 3 hours, and sweeten lightly. Or :—Peel and quarter 4 large rennet apples, or any other firm acid apple. Put them into 1 quart of water with the peel of + a lemon and a handful of washed currants ; let all boil for 1 hour, then strain it; add sugar to taste. Let it stand till pies A little wine may be added to it when about to be unk. | Orgeat.—Beat 2 oz. of almonds with a teaspoonful of orange- flower water and a bitter almond or two: then pour 1 quart of milk and water to the paste. Sweeten with sugar or capil- laire. This is a fine drink for those who have a tender chest ; in the gout it is highly useful, and with the addition of 4 oz. of gum arabic has been found to allay the painfulness of the attendant heat. 2 a glass of brandy may be added if thought too cooling’in the latter complaints, and the glass of orgeat may be put into a basin of warm water. Orangeade or Lemonade.—Squeeze the juice, pour boiling water on a little of the peel, and cover close. Boil water and sugar to a thin syrup, and skim it. When all are cold, mix the juice, the infusion and the syrup, with as much more water as will make a rich sherbet; strain through a jelly-bag. Or :—Squeeze the juice, and strain it, and add water and capillaire. It is, however, still better when made with the juice of unripe grapes. , The usual mode, however, of making Lemonade is to pour 1 quart of boiling water on the rinds of 6 lemons, and let it stand for 8 or 4 hours; add the juice of the lemons with 3 Ib. of sugar; simmer it well and skim it; then add another quart of boiling water. Hither run it through a jelly-bag, or mix a glass of calf’s-foot jelly, which will make it rich. Tamarind or Cranberry Juice, with double the quantity of water, forms a pleasant drink in a fever or for an invalid, when approaching to convalescence. The observation applies equally to the expressed juice of unripe grapes, from which, when used instead of lemons, is made the celebrated Gaspacho of the Spaniards, far superior to lemonade. 604 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Cuap. XXXII, CHAPTER XXXII. VARIOUS RECEIPTS AND DIRECTIONS TO SERVANTS. —— § Gee VARIOUS RECEIPTS. 870.—Indian Cure for Rheumatism.—Lemon-erass oil mixed with sweet oil, in the proportion of 1 spoonful of the former to 2 of the latter, and rubbed on the part affected. Hooping Cough.—The following remedy has been the means of curing hundreds of persons, but it must be steadily applied, and if the disease is not of long standing a sensible amendment will be perceived in about a fortnight. admits only of 4 entrées, 2 should be light and 2 solid; the latter may be made to look light by being carried to a height corresponding to their bread h. Second Course.—Venison, Hare, Birds, and Game of all sorts..Shell Fish, cold and potted..Collared and _ potted Fish..Potted Birds, and all sorts of side-dishes, as entre- mets .. Ribs and fore-quarter of Lamb roasted .. Brawn.. Vegetables, stewed and in season.. French Beans. . Peas. . Asparagus. .Cauliflower..Spinach, and Artichoke bottoms. . Stewed Celery. .Sea-Kale..Fruit Tarts and Preserves of various sorts with the list of sweet dishes, of which abundance are given in the foregoing receipts; such as Creams, Jellies, and all the finer sorts of Puddings, Mince Pies. . Macaroni, Omelette, &e. Any of the following things may be served as a relish, with the cheese, after dinner. . Baked or pickled Fish, done high. .Dutch pickled Herring. .Sardines, which eat like An- chovy, but are larger..Anchovies.. Potted Char.. Potted Lampreys.. Potted Birds seasoned highly..Caviare and Sip- pets of Toast .. Salad... Radishes.. Cold Butter .. Potted Cheese. . Anchovy Toast, and Dutch Herring pickled; but these are not usual at elegant tables, though at friendly and family dinners some of them may be introduced. In some houses, if soup be served, it is customary, in small family parties, to send it up alone. In others, a course of Soups and Fish: then Meats and Boiled Fowls, Turkey, &c. : Made Dishes and Game follow; and lastly, Sweet Dishes: but these removes are ouly employed at large dinners. Vege- tables, if plainly dressed, are put on the side-table at large Cuap. X XXIII. DINNER COURSES. 621 dinners, as likewise sauces, and servants bring them round ; but s inconveniences attend this plan, and, when there are not many to wait, delay is occasioned. If the table is of a due size, the articles alluded to will not fill it too much. mn” worthy of observation here, that cooks do not always think of sending up such articles as are in the house unless ordered; though, by so doing, the addition of anything, col- lared or pickled, some fritters, fried patties, or quickly-made dumplings, would be useful when there happen to be acci- dental visitors: and at all times it is right to better the ap- pearance of the table rather than let things spoil below, by which the expense of a family is more increased than can be easily imagined. - Hot suppers are not much in use where people dine very late ; and when required, nothing boiled should ever be introduced. If fish be served, only the smaller sorts, fried; should be brought to table; with the sole exception of shell-fish, which may be dressed hot in any way. When required, the top and bottom, or either, may be Game.. Fowls.. Rabbit. . Oysters stewed or scalloped..French Beans..Cauliflower, or Jeru- salem Artichokes, in White-Sauce.. Broccoli with Eggs.. Stewed Spinach and Eggs. .Sweetbreads. .Small Birds. . Mush- rooms .. Potatoes in shapes .. Scallops, &c...Cutlets .. Roast Spanish Onions .. Salmagundi .. Buttered Eggs on Toast .. Omelettes aux fines herbes, or a la Tartare. Cold Neat’s Tongue .. Ham .. Collared Meats .. Hunter’s Beef sliced .. Rusks buttered, with Anchovies .. Grated Hung Beef with Butter, with or without Rusk, dressed in the middle of a plate, and surrounded with a garnish .. Custards in glasses .. Oysters cold or pickled. .Potted Meats..Fish. . Birds. . &e. -- Good plain Cake sliced. . Pies of Birds or Fruit..Crabs. . Lobsters. . Prawns. .Cray-fish, though usually brought to table cold, may yet be dressed hot, and, if well made up, are very good. .Any of the list of sweet things or fruits. A sandwich tray with any of the above articles looks well, or placed at a little distance from each other on the table, without the tray, if preferred. The lighter the things, the better they appear, and glass in- termixed has the best effect. Jellies, different coloured things,. and flowers, add to the beauty of the table. An elegant supper may be served at a small expense by those who know how to make trifles that are in the house form the greatest part of the meal. 622 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Omar. XXXIII. ARTICLES IN SEASON IN DIFFERENT. nous January. "980 HOR Lamb. Poultry.—Turkeys . ,Capons ,. Pullets, . Fowls. . Chieke .. Lame Pigeons. + a 4 Game.—Pheasants..Partridges. . Hares. . Rabbits. . Wood- cocks. . Snipes. Fish.—Carp.. Tench. . Perch. . Lampreys. . Eels. . Crayfish .Cod .. Soles .. Flounders. . Plaice..'Turbot. Bhornback... Skate .. Sturgeon .. Smelts .. Whitings .. Lobsters. .Crabs.. “Prawns .. Oysters. Vegetables —Cabbage .. Savoys .. Colewort .. Sprouts .. Broccoli .. Leeks. . Onions. . Beet. . Sorrel. .Chervil. . Endive . .Spinach .. Celery .. Broccoli, white and purple . . Salsafy, and the common garden roots, together with herbs of all sorts, dry, and some green ..Sea-kale is now in the market.. Cucumbers, asparagus, and mushrooms to be had, though not in season, and consequently at extravagant prices. Fruit—Apples .. Pears .. Nuts.. Walnuts .. Medlars ., Grapes and Oranges. February and March. Meat, Fowls, and Game, as in January, till the close of February, with the addition of Ducklings and Chickens, Guinea and Pea Fowl. Fish.—As the last month, except that Cod is not thought good from February to the beginning of October, Salmon coming into season. Vegetables.—The same as s the former month, with the ad- dition of Kidney Beans, if forced, for they are not in season until the end of May. : Fruit Apples .. Pears .. Oranges of the last season; but Nuts, though still brought to table, are going out .. Forced Strawberries. Second Quarter.—April, May, and June, Meat.—Beef .. Mutton .. Veal.. Grass Lamb .. Venison in May, but June is the height of the season. Poultry and Game.—Pullets.. Fowls. . Chickens. . Duck- lings .. Pigeons .. Rabbits .. Leverets ,. Goslings. Cuar. XXXIII. ARTICLES IN SEASON. § — 623 Fish—Carp nch .. Soles .. Smelts .. Eels... Trou uf i .. Turbot.. Lobsters ..Chub .. Salmon. .Cray-fish . ANfsolior .. Crabs .. Prawns .. Shrimps. ! Vegetables.—As before ; and in May, early Potatoes. . Peas . Radishes .. ‘Kidney Beans.. Carrots. Turnips .. Early ages .. Cauliflowers .. Asparagus .. Artichokes, . All sorts of salads, forced. Fruit.—In May and June: Strawberries and Cherries .. Currants and Gooseberries for Tarts. In July: Melons and Green Apricots .. Nectarines, and some Peaches are also to be had; but most ‘of these are forced. Third Quarter.—July, August, and September. Meat as before, except that Lamb is now growing into Mutton. Poultry and Game.—Pullets..Fowls .. Chickens .. Rab- bits .. Pigeons .. Green Geese .. Leverets .. Turkey Poults. Two former months: Plovers .. Wheatears. Michaelmas Geese in September. Grouse-shooting begins the 19th of August; Partridge- shooting the lst of September: so that what is used before is poached. Fish.—Haddock. . Flounders. . Plaice .. Skate . . Thornback .. Salmon, .Cod-fish. , Soles. . Mullets. Pike. . Carp. . Eels, Shell-fish, except Oysters, which are not good till the close of September. . Mackerel the first 2 months of the quarter, but not good in August. | Vegetables.— Of ail sorts: Beans. .Peas.. French Beans. . Scarlet Runners, &c. &e. Fruit.—In July: Strawberries and Gooseberries are going out... Plums, various .. Cherries .. Apricots .. Raspberries .. Melons..Currants. , Damsons. In August and September: Peaches .. Plums.. Figs * Filberts .. Mulberries .. Cherries... Apples .. Pears. . Necta- rines. Grapes. . Melons. . Strawberries. .Mediars. .Quinces.. Morella Cherries® Damsons and various Plums .. Pines of English growth, angagise those brought from the West Indies. = 3 October. Meat as before. Buck-Venison goes out, and Doe- Venison comes into season. Pheasants from the Ist af October. cf ead MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Omar. XXXII. 624 Poultry and Game.—Domestic Fowls as4n former quarter. Wrecrlcocks and Game of all kinds, as well as Water-Fowl, such as Wild Ducks. .Teal..Snipes..Widgeon, Fish.—Dories. .Smelts, .Pike. . Perch. ,Holibuts, Brill. . Carp .. Salmon-Trout. .Barbel. .Gudgeons . . Tench . . Shell- fish. iaae . Vegetables.—Last crops of all sorts of Beans, and 5 gatherings of a peculiar sort of Green Peas. Fruit.—Peaches .. Pears .. Figs .. Bullace .. Grapes... Apples ..Medlars. Damsons. . Filberts .. Walnuts .. Nuts .. Quinces. .Services. . Medlars. November. Meat.—Beef.. Mutton .. Veal. . Pork, all in high season. . House Lamb .. Doe-Venison .. Poultry and Game as the last month. Fish as the last month. Vegetables.—Carrots .. Turnips .. Parsnips .. Potatoes... Skirrets .. Scorzonera .. Onions.. Leeks . Shalots.. Cabbage ..Savoys .. Colewort.. Spinach .. Chard-Beets .. Chardoons . .Cresses. . Endive .. Celery. . Lettuces .. Salad-herbs. . Pot- herbs, and all the sorts of autumn crops. : Fruit.—Pears .. Apples .. Nuts .. Walnuts .. Bullace .. Chestnuts..Medlars..Grapes. _- : , a | December. Meat.—Meat of all sorts, as already stated, is how in prime _order; and House Lamb is in high season as an esteemed - Christmas delicacy. Poultry and Game.—Geese. . Turkeys. . Pullets. . Pigeons . .Capons.. Fowls.. Chickens .. Rabbits .. Hares . . Snipe Woodeocks. . Larks . . Pheasants . . Partridges . . Seas ee to .. Wild Ducks ..Teal. . Widgeon. . Dotterels ... un-birds . . Grouse. : a Fish.—Cod. .Turbot.. Holibuts .. Soles. .Gurnets .. Stur geon ..Carp. .Gudgeons. . Codlings.. Eels.. Dories . . Shell- fish. & Vegetables.—As in the last month. | Sea-Kale In season, but Asparagus only to, be had forced. : e Fruit as the last, except Bullace. om * Uc FOV ls ara. rem ENE X. ° ii = ra ty LPAI N.B.— The reference is to the Page, and not to the number of the Receipt ABERDEEN mode of Apricots, bottled, 484 Banding for the hair, dressing salmon, 234 dried, 486 609 Accounts, importance sae Barbel, 246 . | 485 Acha, 283 preserved in jelly, 486 Re 426 ? pudding, 451 pickle, 508 Agneau a lEspagnole, tartlets of green, 412 145 Arrowroot, 592 au Pascal, 146 pudding, 432 a la Périgord, 146 Artichokes, 314 blanquette, 149 2 la poivrade, 315 epaule, 149 bottoms, 314 pieds, 146 with eggs, 377 preserve, 500 Barley gruel, 599 water, 602 Bath buns, 544 pudding, 453 receipt for boeuf % la Alb, egg, 374 farcis, 315 mode, 122 Ale with cheese, 379 Jerusalem, 315 Batter for fruit pud- Almack’s preserve, 498 soup, 92 ding, 451 stewed, 215 Articles inseasonduring eacb month, 622 Artificial sauces for fish, 521 Asparagus, 313 with eggs, 377 farcis, 313 to fricassee, 313 soup, 92 Asses’ milk, 599 Aunt Martha’s pudding, 438 Almond cakes, 535 candied, 482 cheesecakes, 419 cream, 462 cream ice, 469 croquantes, 467 custard, 458 fritters, 383 omelette, 372 pudding, 435, 437 soup, 76 American biscuits, 542 lancmange, 471 fruit in, 451 pudding, 427 Beans, broad, 307 French, 318, 508 Beef, 103 » la Houssard, 124 2 la mode, 121 & la Polonaise, 124 & la vinaigrette, 125 to bake, 114 best pieces, 103 to boil, 113 bouilli, 108 flour, 548 : , a pbouill , 86 Anchovy sauce, 521 Austrian puffs, 414 ig: eau 168 toast, 561 brisket, baked, 114 Apples, 11 Bacon, to choose, 56 bubble and squeak, 113 F ala Cremone, 448 to cure, 348 cheek, 116 a la Dauphine, 449 Bain-marie, 42, 45 to choose, 54 to collar, 357 ononss 126 corn, 341 heels, 121 re Emily stew, 110 feet, 121 fillet, 106, 123 fillet, braised, 123 fillet, to taste like ie e, 106 fricandeau of, 124 fricassée, 125 2 la Suédoise, 448 buttered, 449 Charlotte of, 447 chartreuse of, 449 compote of, 495 dumplings, 454 a weeOOl, 472 fa eg ™ tters, 382 gateau, 450 a jelly, 476, 50} juice for jelly, 486 mange, 450 marmalade, 492 miroton of, 449 pancakes, 381 Baked apple pudding ‘or 13 beef, 114 brisket of beef, 114 round of beef, 114 rump of beef, 114 scarlet beef, 115 bread pudding, 430 calf’s head, 155 custard pudding, 428 gooseberry pudding, 452 a oe ‘cgi D 342 a : 0 hash, 115 Bakewell pudding, 439 heart, 116 Balls, egg, 84 hung (Derrynane re- a a = a eS ee ae ee pie, 410 pudding, 451 forcemeat, 338 ceipt), 344 puffs, 413 _ Passover, 63, 340 hunter’s, 344 potato, 304 to keep, 103 and rice, 449 : rice, 366 kidney, 128 sauce, 279 soufflé, 467 of suet pudding, 423 kidney, minced raw, 129 stewed, 410 wash, 607 é kidney, rissoles of, 129 water for the sic’ x, 603 | Banbury cakes, 534 leg, stewed, 108 2E - 626 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. eef, in a marinade, 123 ee marinade to baste roast meats, 104 marrow-bones, 121 to mince, 125 olives, 124 palate, 127 pasty, 402 patties, 404 to pot, 354 _ ragout, 123. ribs, en bouilli, 109 ribs, collared, 104 ribs, roasted, 104 roast, sauce for, 273 round, baked, 114 round, boiled, 113 rump, baked, 114 rump, boiled, 113 rump, roasted, 106 rump, stewed, 107 rump steaks proiled, 112 rump steaks, dressing of, 112 to salt, Dutch mode, 342 to salt red, 341 sausages, 331 scarlet, baked, 115 season for, 103 Sirloin, roasted, 104 sirloin, inside of, 105 sirloin, inside of, cold, 105 spiced, ae spiced, mode, 3 spiced, flank, 343 steaks, stewed, 111 Legge rehire steaks a laFrangaise, 1 23 1o stew, 106 tail, 119 tea, 595 tongue, 117 tongue, & la Parisienne, 118 tongue, to eat cold, 118 tongue, cured, 344 tongue, fresh, 118 tongue, larded & la Prusse, Paci? tongue, piqué 9 tongue, roasted, 118 tongue, stewed, 118 tougue, fresh, and ud- der, 118 tremblant, 109 tripe, 120 like venison, 402 Welsh, 344 Yorkshire puddingwith, 106 Beefsteak, 111 pie, 400 pudding, 423 Beer, ginger, 582 soup, 85 Beetroot, 309 Beignet, 385 Bengal curry, 296 curry-puwder, 295 Benton tea-cakes, 540 — Berlin, kloes of, 207 pudding, 445 Biffins, 490 Bills of fare, 619 Bills, hints on, 8 Bischopf, 583 Biscuits, 540 American, 542 cookies, 542 devilled, 562 ginger, 541 to keep, 541 pudding, 431 Swiss, 54] tea, 541 waffles, 542 white cakes, 541 wine, 542 Blackberry jam, 499 wine, 581 Blackcap puddings, 410 Black currant liqueur, 588 wine, 578 Blacking, to make, 618 Black puddings, 333 Blanc for chickens, 190 Blanch, to, 39 Blancmange, 470 American, 471 Blanquette d’agneau, 149 de veau, 168 Blister, to apply a, 605 Bloaters, 560 Boards, to clean, 615 Bockings, 384 Beuf a la Houssard, 124 a-la-mode, 121 ala Polonaise, 124 a la vinaigrette, 125 palais de, 127 _ palais de, a la Mariette, 128 tremblant, 109 Bohemian cream, 462 Boil, to, 32 Boiled beef, 113 round of beef, 113 rump of beef, 113 calf’s head, 154 eggs, 369 fish, 210 leg of lamb, 144 mutton ham, 180 leg of mutton, 133 custard pudding, 422 rice, 295 fillet of veal, 150 | Bolas d’ amor, 537 | Bon-bons, 482 Bone, to, 36 Boned quarter of lamb, 145 Bottle-jack, 40 Bottled apricots, 484 - cherries, 484 fruit, 433 green apricots, 484 greengages, 484 Bouilli; 29° beef, 108 __ ribs ‘of beef, 109 Bouillon, 86 Braise, to, 37 Braised leg of mutton, 137 veal,-153. Bran, 549 Brandy, cherries in, 497 cherry, 588 creams, 466 pudding, 439 Brasenose pudding, 437 Bratty’s (Miss) cheese- cakes, 418 Brawn, to choose, 56 to cure, 349 to keep, Cambridge me- thod, 350 mock, 350 Bread, 548 brown, 549 brown, pudding of, 430 cheap, 548 cottage, 552 crumbs, 209 diet, 529 economical, 554 family, 553 fermented, 553 flour for, 548 fried for garnishing, 208 hints on, 9 household, 548 ice, 468 jelly for the sick, 593 maize, 554 . to make, 551. oven, 550 ee observations 01 548 pudding, 429 * and butter ysaing saae rye, 554 sauce, 282 short, 536 unfermented, 553 yeast for, 54 ‘| Breakfast cakes, 556 savoury dishes for, 560 Bream, 244 sea, 226 Bredic of vegetables, 325 Bride cake, 528 Bright bars, to clean, 617 : Brill, 214 Brioche, 538 paste, 391 Broad-beans, 307 Brocoli, 317 with buttered eggs, 317 Broil, a, 560 Broil, to, 33 Broiled chicken, 560 fish, 212 hes fowl, 186 . mackerel, 560 mushrooms, 318 rumpsteaks, 112 Broken china, to mend, 610 Broth, barley, 72 mutton, 71 mutton for invalids, 72 Scotch, 73 veal, 77 Broths for the sick, 593 beef, mutton, and veal, 593 ‘ calf’s feet, 593 chicken, 594 eel, 594 to keep, 594 quickly made, 594 mutton, 72 : strengthening, 595 Brown bread, 549 ice, 468 pudding, 430 Brown melted butter, 270 sauce, 289 stock for soup, 65 Bruises, remedy for, 605 Bubble and squeak, 113 Buckwheat cakes, 557 | fritters, 384 \ Bugs, to destroy, 619 Buns, 543 Bath, 544 cross, 543 Madeira, 544 ‘Scotch, 544. . Spanish, 544 Burn, remedy for a, 605 Burnt cream, 462 buttered eggs, 374 - Butter cakes, 534 to clarify, 351 crayfish, 255 Dutch, 467 fairy, 467 maitre dhétel, 270 melted, 269 orange, 466 and parsley, 270 Buttered apples, 449 od Cal INDEX. 627 Buttered eggs, 374 mushrooms, 320 Buttermilk, 600 Cabbage, 310 Cabinet pudding, 440 Cakes, 524 almond, 535 Banbury, 534 barberry, 496 Benton tea, 540 breakfast, 556 bride, 528 buckwheat, 557 buckwheat, Shrewsbury receipt, 558 butter, 534 coffee, 540 cracknels, 539 family bread, 531 fish, 263 French, 537 ham, 355 icing for, 543 Trish, 539 Johnny, 558 jumbles, 535 kringles, 539 lemon, 537 macaroons, 534 Marlborough, 534 mode of keeping, 526 moulds for, 532 observations on, 524 oven for, 525 passover, 536 paste, 559 plain, 530 plum, 526 pound, 536 to prepare materials for, 524 provincial, 533 queen, 528 ratafia, 525 Tice, 532 rout drops, 535 rusks, 539 saffron, 557 Sally Lunns, 557 Savoy, 531 Scotch seed, 530 Seed, 529 shortbread, 536 Shrewsbury, 533 slim, 559 : soda, 537 Spanish, 538 sponge, 531 tea, 540 tipsy, 470 Tunbridge, 53 veal, 167 Vienna, 532 Yorkshire, 534 f’s brains, 163 ears, 163 feet, 162 Calf’s heart, 162 kidneys, 165 liver, 164 tails, 163 Calf’s-fcot jelly, 475 jelly for the sick, 591 pie, 399 Calf’s-head, 154 pie, 399 collared, 358 Calico furniture, to clean, 613 Cambridge pudding, 443 sausages, 331 Camp ketchup, 520 dish of mutton, 139 vinegar, 514 Camphor, to keep away vermin, 619 Canard farci, 193 Candied almonds, 482 bon-bons, 482 fruit, 485 lemon-peel, 502 orange-peel, 502 toffie, 482 Canidles, hints on, 10 Caper sauce, 271 | Capon, 182 Carp, 241 Crucian, 241 eauce for, 292 Carpets, to clean, 617 to dust, 616 Caraccas cocoa, 571 Carachi, 286 Cardoons, 321 Carrots, 308 puddings, 452 soup, 90 Carving, 13 necessity of practice in, Casserole of fish, 261 of rice, 367 Caudle for the sick, 598 to make, 597 cold, 597 flour, 597 rice, 597 Caulifiowers, 317 with Parmesan, 317 pickled, 510 in white sauce, 317 Caveach fish, to, 356 Caviar, 240 Cecil’s minced beef, 126 Celery, 316 and veal cutlets, 158 sauce, 274 soup, 91 Cement for china, 610 2E2 broken 628 Cervelles de veau, 164 Chads, 226 : Champagne, English, 579 cream, 460 pink, 579 ChepEe hands, paste for, 60 lips, paste for, 607 Characters of servants, 7 Charlotte, apple, 447 Russe, 461 Charr, 239 Chartreuse, apple, 449 veal, a la, 169 Cheese, 377 damson, 498 with eggs, 377 fondeau, 377 gooseberry, 496 pudding, 389 puffs, 413 ramequins, 378 stewed, 379 stewed with ale, 379 and toast, 389 Welsh rabbit, 379 Cheesecakes, 418 almond, 419 Miss Bratty’s, 418 without butter, 419 Jemon, 419 orange, 419 paste for, 390 plain, 418 _ potato, 420 stock for, 420 Cherries, bottled, 484 dried, 497 preserved, 497 preserved in brandy,497 rolled, 497 Cherry brandy, 588 jam, 499 Chestnuts, 321 sauce, 215 Chetney sauce, 287 Chichester pudding, 452 Chickens, 189 blanc for, 190 broiled, 560 curry, 188 panada, 596 pie, 394 potted, 353 pudding, 424 salad, 327 sauce for, 276 Chicoree, 324 Chilblains, cure for, 604 Children, fruit for, 452 Chili vinegar, 516 Chimney - pieces, blacken, 617 to MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. China, to mend, 610 China chiloe, 139 Chine of mutton, 130 of pork, 177 Chocolate, 570 ‘ cream, 463 custard, 457 pudding, 433 Choose, to, beef, 54 Collared calf’s head, 358 eels, 356 meats, marinade for, 360 breast of mutton, 358 breast of veal, 358 pig, 359 pig’s head, 359 salmon, 236 College puddings, 436 Collops of veal, 156 stab, 33 of beef, 126 mutton, 55 Colgiring for jellies, pork, 55 ( veal, 54 soup, 62 venison, 56 Compositionsweetmeat, Chops, lamb, 148 500 mutton, 135 Chorisos, 333 Christmas pie, 403 Christopher North’s sauce, 287 Cider with raisin wine, Compotes, apple, 495 red currant, 4% of various fruits, 495 orange, 495 Compounds for jellies, custards, &c., 474 577 Confectionery, 479 Clams for soup, 98 Confitures, omelette Clarifying butter, 351 aux, 372 popes fis Conjurer, the, 41, 560 ode "62 Conservative pudding, Clary wine, 581 441 3 Clean, to, furniture, &c., Consommeé, 65 ; 613. See Servants Cookery, observatiens Cloth, to take stains| 0, 26 Cookery for the Sick, 590. See Sick Cooks, maxims for, 35 | Cordial, ginger, 590 Corned ‘beef, 341 Cételettes de mouton en ragout, 140 out of, 611 Cock-a-leekie, 71 Cockles, 258 sauce, 290 for soup, 98 Cocoa, Caraccas, 571 nibs or shells, 571 Cocoa-nut pudding, 433 de mouton dt} la Polo- Cod, 218 naise, 141 pie, 406 de mouton 4 la Main- sounds, 220 tenon, 141 Cod’s-head soup, 96 de mouton aux harizots Codling cream, 464 verts, 141 soup, 95 de poulet, 186 tart, 410 Cottage bread, 552 Coffee, 565 soup, 70 cakes, 540 Cough, cure for, 604 essence of, 568 == ~—- | Covers, to clean, 618 pee: mode of making, Cow-heels, 121 milk, 568 Cowslip wine, 581 noir, 56) Crabs, 253 Platow’s urn for, 566 sauce, 291 for soup, 97 Siberian, 490 Cracknels, Isle Wight, 539 Cradle- -spit, 39 Cranberry jelly, 478 roasting machine, 566 Varieties of, 563 Cold cream, 608 punch, 585 sausages, 331 Collaring, mode of, of 301 juice, 603 Collared beef, 357 pudding, 450 | dos of bee, 104 iart, 412 INDEX. 629 Crayfish, 255 butter, 255 sauce, 292 soup, 97 Creams, 460 au caramel, 462 au marasquin, 461 a la Vanille, 461 almond, 462 Bohemian, 462 brandy, 466 burnt, 462 « champagne, ‘Si chocolate, 463 — codling, 464 custard, 456 Flemish, 464 fruit, 464 gooseberry, 464 honeycomb, 465 ice, 468 imperial, 463 Italian, 460 leché, 460 lemon, 465 orange, 464 ~ pistachio, 463 raspberry, 465 ratafia, 466 Rhenish, 464 for salad, 329 sauce with hare, 204 snow, 462 spinach, 463 velvet, 463 Creme de cacao, 589 de Portugal, 589 frite aux amandes, 383 d’orge, 442 Crimped maids, 217 skate, 217 Cropped heads of had-| Currant and Raspberry docks, 224 Croquettes, 46 of fish, 261 of lobsters, 252 of rice, 366 de cervelles de veau, 164 de ris de veau, 141 vol-au-vent de, 405 Croquant paste, 391 Croquantes of almonds, 467 Croustade, or Dresden patties, 417 Crucian carp, 241 Crumpets, 556 and muffin pudding, 433 Crust for pies, 387 for tarts, 391 Cucumbers, 315 with minced beef, 126 farcis, 315 ketchup, 518 pickle, 505 purée of, 285 Cucumber vinegar, 514 Culinary utensils, 39 Cullis, 278 Curagoa, 589 Curd fritters, 385 in patties, 418 Cure for bruises, 605 : for a burn, 605 for chapped hands, 607 for chapped lips, 607 for chilblains, 604 for cough, 604 for hooping cough, 604 for cuts, 605 for rheumatism, 604 for scald, 605 for warts, 605 Curing meats, 340 bacon, Blackpool re- ceipt, 348 bacon, Malines receipt, 348 bacon, Wiltshire re- ceipt, 349 bacon for larding and braising, 349 brawn, 349 goose hams, 347 hams, 346 hams, Fitzsimon ceipt, 346 hog’s cheeks, 349 mutton hams, 347 sheep's tongues, 345 tongues, 344 Currant jelly, 500 liqueur, 588 | sauce, 280 | wine, 577 Te- jelly, 478 Currants, compote of, 495 dried, 496 dumplings, 455 Curry, 293 Bengal, 296 chicken, 188 Lord Ciive’s, 296 hard egg, 297 fish, 265 Hastings, 296 Hindostanee kuwab,297 lobster, 253 Malay, 297 King of Oude’s, 296 pork, 174 powder, 294 powder, Bengal, 295 powder, Delhi, 295 powder, Colonel Lys’s, 293 ‘ powder, Madras, 295 powder, Sir H. Pottin-| ger’s, 295 ee Curry, prawn, 297 to prepare, 294 rabbit, 206 Tipperary, 395 veal, 170 of vegetables, 325 Custards, 456 almond, 458 coffee, 457 French mode of making, 456 iced, 469 lemon, 459 orange 459 pudding, 428 rice, 457 rich, 458 Custard cream, 456 of chocolate, 457 Cutlets, fish, 263 mutton, 140 pork, 173 of soles, 216 salmon, 234 sturgeon, 241 veal, 157 | Cuts, remedy for, 605 Dabs, 216 Dace, 250 Dame Jones’s pudding, 438 Damson cheese, 498 pudding, 542 Derrynane receipt fer hung beef, 344 receipt for hare, 204 Devils: biscuits, 562 dry, 563 game, 563 mutton, 560 wet, 563 Devonshire junket, 473 syllabubs, 472 Diet and digestion, 27 Digesters, 41 Dinner courses, 619 Directions to servants, 613. See Servants Domestic economy, hints on, 8 bills, 8 bread, 9 candles, 10 eggs, 12 fruits, 11 inventories, 8 oil-lamps, 10 soap, 10 soda, 11 starch, 11 storercom, 9 sugar, 10 vegetables, 11 Drawgia poultry, 180 Rit fend “id Sone ae re . 630 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. a el re Dresden patties, 417 Eggs— Fish— Dress, to, fish, 209 with cheese, 377 jelly for, 293 poultry, 180 curry, 297 Kedgeree, 263 vegetables, 298 a pretty dish of, 373 marinade for, 213 Dried apricots, 487 en puree, 376 matelote, 264 biffins, 490 farcis, 375 panada for, 336 cherries, 497 hints on, 12 _ pité, 262 currants for dessert, 496 to ae for winter use, patties, 405 ooseberries, 497 pies, 406 ies bonum plums, omelette, 370 puddings, 424 490 with, onions, 376 rissoles of, 261 salmon, 560 plovers, 202 S, 328 sweetmeats, 481 to poach, 369 for, 288 to 293, Drinks for the sick, 601 phe _ mrs Le Raga Duck giblet soup, 78 maibiicetinmatt en ss) 7S AO : << ith spinach, 376. soup maigre, 95 Ducklings, sauce’ for, sur le plat, 376 is andi 99 279 for turtle, 340 , to boil, 210.” Ducks, 191 ms white fricassée of, 374 to broil, 212 and green peas, 191 wine, 583 v to caveach, 356 wild, 201 : . | Elder - flower vinegar, to choose, 58 Dumplings, 454 | 515 * . to dress,: 209 apple, 454 wine, 581 to fry, 21i currant, 455 Elder wine, 580 to preserve fresh, 265 Norfolk, 455 | Endive, 324 € scollop, 59. ~~ Cea tomes English haggis, 136 ee ae suet, for soup, 455 rolls, ee ‘ to stew, Hebrew Suffolk, 454 Wines, 571. See Wines. fashion, 264 yeast, 454 Deas es pudding, turtle, 262 Dumpokht. 188 p vol-au-vent, 264 Dun: birds? 202 Essence of coffee, 568 | F wo oe water, 232 Sy, of ginger, 590 arbel, 246 bela pe of salting oP tencpasa b tae a! 244 ates ae Etna, the, 599 vers ie 2 °j Cc é pancakes, 381 RN areas syllabubs, ace, kee pudding, 443 eels, 246 ramequins, 379 F i fish sauce, 290 Family soup, 69 abi 2 ne Dye, to, furniture| Farce, 335 jack, 244» lining, 611 cuite, 337 lamprey, 249 gloves, 612 of ham and veal, 337 parr, 238 Farcis artichokes, 315 perch, 245 Economical pudding, a aoe ih 493 , cucumbers, 315 to be rubbed with salt, Economy, domestic, 8 eges, 375 232 Eels, 246 lettuces, 310 salmon, ‘232 collared, 356 potatoes, 305 salon aes pie, 407 of veal, 158 shad, 246 ate ae 293 Fennel sauce, 270 dios os sae . Fermentation .of wine Mais dh oy ue: Hees ee | pte if ete : ‘ , 237. a la Carmelite, 375 Fillet of veal, 150 water zouchee, 245 a la Duchesse, 374 Fillets of mackerel, whitebait, 250 a la Francaise, 377 228 - Fish, salt-water, 209 a la Gruyere, 375 _ of soles, 216 brill, 214 a la Tripe, 376 Fish, 259 chads, 226 aux fines herbes, 374 cake, 263 cod, 218 with asparagus, 377 casserole of, 261 dabs, 216 Ae artichokes, 377 croquettes of, 261 flounders, 216 alls, 84 curry, 265 nards or gurnets, 224 to boil, 369 cutlets, 263 5 Rraddock., 222 ; with brocoli, 317 forcemeat of, 338 hake, 218 brouillés, 373 fricandelles, 263 halibut, 217 burnt buttered, * grenade, 259 herrings, 229 Fish, salt-water— John-dory, 215 ling, 218 mackerel, 226 marinade for, 213 mullet, 225 pilchards, 231 plaice, 215 ray or maid, 217 red hefrings, 230 salt-fish, 231 sea bream, 226 skate, 217 soles, 216 sprats, 231 thornback, 217 turbot, 213 whiting, 224 Fish, shell, 250 cockles, 258 crabs, 253 crayfish, 235 lobsters, 250 muscles, 258 oysters, 256 periwinkles, 258 to pot, 352 prawns, 253 scallops, 259 shrimps, 253 Fish pies, 406. Sce Pies Fish sauces, 521 anchovy, 521 Flannels, to prevent from shrinking, 611 Flemish cream, 464 Flies, to destroy, 614 Floating island, 470 Floors, to dust, 616 Floor-cloths, to choose, 616 to clean, 616 Flounders, 216 Flour, 548 American, 548 Matso, 536 potato, 301 Flummery, 473 Fretich, 473 rice, 367, 473 Fondeau, 377 - a VItalienne, 377 en caisses, 378 Food and cookery, 26 Fool, apple, 472 gooseberry, 471 orange, 471 Forcemeat, 335 balls for soup, 63, 338 of fish, 338 of ham and veal, 337 to make, 336 of oysters, 338 seasoning for, 338 for turtle, 339 INDEX. Forcing, 38 Foreign terms, 45 Fowls, 183 braised, 184 broiled, 186 cold, sauce for, 282 fricassee, 186 poéle for, 183 with onions, 185 with oysters, 184 with peas, 185 with rice, 184 roast, sauce for, 276 sausages, 333 Frangipane, 538 Freezing powders, 468 French beans, 318 beans pickled, 508 cakes, 537 mode of making coffee, 566 flummery, 473 fritters, 385 pancakes, 381 pie, 396 mode of rendering poultry tender, 180 puffs, 414 receipts for potatoes,303 rolls, 555 salad, 328 French plums, pudding of, 445 Fresh-water fish, 232 Friar’s chicken soup, 77 Fricandeau of beef, 124 sauce for, 278 of veal, 160 Fricandelles of fish, 263 of veal, 160 Fricassée asparagus, 313 beef, 125 calfs head, 155 cervellés de veau, 164 eggs, 374 fowls, 186 lamb, 148 mushrooms, 319 parsnips, 308 sweetbreads, 147 Fried bread for gar- nishing, 208 fish, 211 herbs, 320. potatoes, 303 ramequins, 378 Fritters, 382 apple, 382 bockings, 384 buckwheat, 384 coloured, 385 creme frite ainandes, 383 curd, 385 French, 383 aux 631 Fritters — Italian, 384 kidney, 385 lobster, 252 orange, 385 oyster, 385 potato, 384 Tice, 366 Spanish, 383 sweetmeat, 385 Frontiniac, English, 580 Fruit, bottled, 483 candied, 482 for children, 452 compote of, 495 creams, 464 to green, 483 hints on, 11 in jelly, 476 pies, 409. See Pies to preserve, 485 to 503 puddings, 450. See Puddings wafers for dessert, 496 Frumenty, Somerset- shire, 467 Fry, lamb’s, 147 Frying, 33 fish, 211 Furniture, inventories of, 8 to dye linings of, 611 calico, to clean, 611 Furs, to preserve from moths, 611 Galantine of veal, 161 Galette, 538 Game, 198 devilled, 563 dunbirds, 202 grey plovers, 202 grouse, 201 guinea-fowl, 201 hares, 203 Jandrail, 202 leveret, 205 moorcock, 201 ortolans, 201 partridges, 199 peafowl, 201 pheasants, 199 plovers, 202 to pot, 353 puddings, 424 quails, 201 rabbits, 205 rabbits, with herbs, 205 rees, 202 ruffs, 202 soup, 79 snipes, 201 stock, 79 swartzain, 202 teal, 202 widgeons, 202 632 Game— wild ducks, 201 winged, sauce for, 281 woodcocks, 201 Garbanzas, 321 Garlic, 311 pickle, 505 sauce, 271 Garnishing, fried bread for, 208 Garniture 167 Gaspacho, 403 Gateau de pommes, 450 Gauffres, 415 la Flamande, 415 George IV.’s punch, 585 German puddings, 444 puffs, 414 pudding sauce, 288 toast, 561 Gherkins, pickled, 506 Giblets, duck, soup of, 78 pie, 403 soup, 78 stewed, 191 Gilding, to clean, 613 to preserve, 613 Ginger beer, 582 Ginger biscuits, 541 cordial, 590 essence of, 590 syrup, 502 Gingerbread, 545 without butter, 546 imperial, 546 lemon, 546 . nuts, 547 sugar, 546 thick, 546 . Ginger wine, 575, 582 Glaze, to, 38 glaze, 66 Gloucester jelly, 593 pudding, 454 Gloves, to dye, 612 Goose, 191 hams, 247 pie, 403 sauce for, 279 Gooseberries, dried, 457 preserved, 492 Gooseberry cheese, 406 cream, 464 fool, 471 jam, 499 pudding, 452 sauce, 279 scuffle, 467 vinegar, 515 wine, 574, 578 Gourds, 313 en ragout, AT) } MODER Grape jam, 499 wine, 573, 576 Grapes, to keep, 484 Grates, to clean, 617 Gravy, 64, 265 brown, 66 to make, 266 meat for, 266 without meat, 267 rich, 269 soup, 66 soup, brown, 66 soup, clear, 67 stock for, 267 veal, 268 for venison, 267 to make like venison, 268 Grayling, 238 Grease, to take out, 611 Green, to, fruits, 483 Greengages, bottled, 484 See preserved, 491 Green peas, 305. Peas ; Grenade of fish, 259 of sole, 260 Grey plovers, 202 Grillades, 560 Griskin of pork, 176 Ground rice pudding, 435 milk, 599 Grouse, 201 Gruel, barley, 599 water, 599 Gudgeons, 250 Guinea-fowl, 201 Gurnet, 224 Haddocks, 222 soup, 96 Haggis, English, 136 Scotch, 135 Hair, bandcline for the, 609 water, to preserve the, 609 Hake, 218 for soup, 96 Halibut, 217 for soup, 96 Hamburg beef, 342 Ham, 178 cake, 355 to cure, 345 essence of, 269 Fitzsimon’s receipt for, 346 goose, 347 mutton, 180, 347 potted, 354 toast, 562 Westphalia, 347 ¥ DOMESTIC COOKERY. mutton eat | aS aw Hare, 203 Derrynane receipt for, 204 forcemeat for, 337 jugged, 204 liver sauce for, 281 pie, 395 - potted, 354 sauce for, 281 stuffing for, 337 Hare soup, artificial, Sis clear, 80 thick, 80 Haricots blancs, 321 a l’ Hollandaise, 321 Spanish receipt, 321 Harrico soup, 74 Harricot mutton, 135 © veal, 161 Hartshorn jelly, 478 Hashed beef, 115 calf’s-head, 154 mutton, 137 veal, 156 venison, 198 ; Hastings curry, 296 Hasty pudding, 453 Hawker’s cold punch, 585 sauce, 281 Hearths, to clean, 617 Her Majesty’s pudding, 442 Herb pudding, 425 Herbs, fried, 320 Herrings, 229 red, 230 Hindostanee kuwab fowl, 297 Lak hie ‘ mutton cutlets, 140 Hints on cockery, 26 to 39 on domestic economy, 8 Hiring of servants, 7 Hochepot, 138 Hog’s cheeks, 349 ears, forced, 175 lard, 178 Honeycomb cream, 465 Honey water, 608 Hooping ecugh, cure for, 604 Horseradish sauce, 288 Hotchpotch, 73 pepperpot, 73 Scotch, 73 Hung beef, 344 Hungary water, 608 Hunter’s beef, 344 pudding, 427 soup, 79 . INDEX. 633 Ices, 468 almond cream, 469 _ brown bread, 468 custard, 469 freezing powders, 468 to prepare, 468 ratafia cream, 468 Vanilla cream, 469 water, 469 Iced punch, 469 Icing for fruit pies and tarts, 420 é for cakes, 543° ~ Imperial cream, 463 gingerbread, 546 Indian cure for rheu- matism, 604 pickle, 512 pickle sauce, 283 Ink, to make, 609 to take out of maho- gany, 615 Inventories of furni- ture, &c., 8 Trish cake, 539 walnut ketchup, 518 puffs, 414 stew, !37 Ironmoulds, to remove, 610 Isinglass, to clarify, 476 jellies, 477 jelly for the sick, 591 Jelly— cranberry, with rice,478 currant, 500 currant, without boil- ing, 500. currant and raspberry, 478 to cover cold fish, 293 fruit in, 476 Gloucester, 593 hartshorn, 478 ° isinglass, 477 isinglass for the sick,591 Italian, 478 ivory, 591 lemon, 475 lemon, with isinglass, 4T7 marmalade, 501 of mixed colours, 479 . moulds for, 478 orange, 475 orange, with isinglass, 477 of pig’s feet and ears,176 pork, for the sick, 591 potato, 302 potato, for the sick, 592 for raised pies, 393 raspberry and currant, 478 of sheep’s trotters, for the sick, 591 for the sick, 591 strawberry, 477 Isle of Wight cracknels, | J ban og artichokes, 539 Italian cheese, 473 cream, 460 fritters, 384 jelly, 478 salad, 328 Italian pastes, 360 macaroni, 361 polenta, 364 puddings of, 431 semolina, 360 vermicelli, 364 Ivory jelly, 591 Jack, 244 Jam, barberry, 500 blackberry, 499 cherry, 499 gooseberry, 499 grape, 499 raspberry, 499 Jars for pickles, 504 Jelly, 474 apple, 476, 501 bread, for the sick, 593 calf’s foot, 476 ealf's foot, for the sick, 591 colouring for, 502 compounds for, 474 cranberry, 478 { with rabbits, 205 Jointing meat, 49 John dory, 215 Johnny cakes, 558 Jugged hare, 204 Julienne soup, 88 Jumbles, 535 Junket, Devonshire,473 Kebobbed mutton, 138 Kedgeree of fish, 263 Keep, to, beef, 103 cakes, 526 eggs, 368 fish, 265 grapes, 484 potatoes, 301 veal, 150 Kent’s knife - cleaner, 618 Ketchup, 516 camp, 520 cucumber, 518 mushroom, 516 Pontac, 523 seven years’, 520 tomata, 519 walnut, 5!7 walnut, Irish mode, 518 Kettle for scup, 61 Khicharee, 287 Kidneys, beef, 123 fritters of, 385 mutton, 142 toast, 562 veal, 165 King of Oude’s curry, 296 Kitchener’s salad mix- ture, 326 Kloes of Berlin, 207 Knife-cleaner, 618 Knives, to clean, 618 Kringles, 53) Kuwah fowl, 297 Lady Abbess’s puffs, 414 Lamb, 144 a lEspagnole, 145 au Pascal, 146 breast, stewed, 146 blanquette, 149 chops, 148 directions for choosing, 55 feet, 149 fricassée, 148 fry, 147 head, 146 head and hinge, 147 leg, boiled, 144 loin, stewed, 146 pie, 400 quarter, roasted, 145 quarter, boned, 145 shoulder, au naturel, 149 shoulder, stewed, !46 steaks, 148 stewed, & la Perigord, 146 to stew, 146 sweetbreads, 147 sweetbreads fricassée, 147 Lamprey, 249 potted, 352 Lamps, 1) Landrail, 202 Langue de beuf, 117 piqué, 119 i la Prugse, 119 Lard, hogs’, 178 Larding, 37 Lardons, 160 Larks, 196 Lavender water 608 Léche créma, 460 Leck, 312 soup, 91 Leicestershire hare, 204 pikelet, 556 spiced beef, 343 wie Ss jugged 634 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY, Lemonade, 603 Lemon cakes, 537 cheesecakes, 419 cream, 465 flavouring for puddings, 516 gingerbread, 546 jelly, 475 peel, candied, 502 pickle, 511 pickled, 510 preserved, 489 preserved in jelly, 488 pudding, 447 puffs, 413 sponge, 466 tartlet, 411 wine, 580 water, 602 whey, 601 Lent pie, 417 Lentil soup, 88 Letiuce, 310 farcie a la Francaise,310 Leveret, 205 Liaison, 278 Lights for the table, 3 Linen, to take stains out of, 610 Ling, 218 - pie, 407 for soup, 96 Lining of furniture, to dye, 611 Liqueurs, 584 black currant, 588 cherry brandy, 588 cremes, 589 curacoa, 589 ginger cordial, 590 mead, 589 nectar, 589 noyeau, 587 punch, 684 ratafia, 588 shrub, 587 syrup for, 589 Liver sauce, 275, 281 Loaves of potatoes, 303 Lobster, 250 croquettes, 252 curry, 253 fritters, 252 miroton of, 252 patties, 405 pie, 408 salad, 328 sauce, 291 scolloped, 252 soup, 96 London syllabubs, 472 Looking - glasses, to clean, 613 Macaroni, 361 a VI talienne, 362 & la Pontife, 363 au vin, 362 aux truffes, 363 cold, 362 Neapolitan, 361 pate de, 363 to prepare, 361 pudding, 431 soup, 67 timbale de, 363 Macaroons, 534 Machine for roasting coffee, 566 Mackerel, 226 broiled, 560 fillets, 228 Madeira buns, 544 pudding, 444 Madras curry powder, 295 Magnum bonum plums, 490 Mahogany, to colour,615 to take ink out of, 615 Maids of honour pud- ding, 443 ! Maigres soupes, 100. See Soup . Maize bread, 554 Malay curry, 297 Malmsey wine, 575 Malt wine, 575 Mandram, 273 Mange, pomme, 450 Mangoes, pickled, 511 Marble, to clean, 619 to take stains out of, 618 Marble, to, veal, 169 Marinade, for beef, 123 for collared meats, 360 for fish, 213 for roast meats, 104 Marketing, 53 Marlborough cakes, 534 Marmalade,,492 apple, 492 apricot, 492 jelly, 501 orange, 493 orange, mixed, 494 orange, for pudding, 494 orange, Scotch, 494 orange, transparent,494 quince, 493 Marrow pudding, 428 Mashed parsnips, 308 potatoes, 302 Matelote of fish, 964 Matso flour, 536 Maxims for cooks, 35 Mayonnaise, La, 235 Mead, 589 Measures, 44 Meat pies, 392 to 404, See Pies Meat, to choose, 54 for gravy, 266 to joint, 49 to keep, 57 to keep hot, 39 for sausages, 330 soups, 64 stuffing for soles, 217 Melon, preserved, 487 Melted butter, 269 Mertonalmond pudding, 437 Mildew, to take out, 611 Milk coffee, 568 porridge, 598 punch, 585 sago, 598 Milk, asses’, 599 Millet pudding, 433 Mince for patties, 405 Mince pies, 416 > patties like, 418 Minced beef, 126 mutton, 139 veal, 169 Mint sauce, 273 Miroton of apples, 449 lobster, 252 veal, 161: Miscellaneous observa- tions for the use of the mistress of a fa- mnily, 1 Mixture for salad, 326 Mock brawn, 350 Mock turtle soup, 83 imitation of, 154 Montagu pudding, 427 Moorcock, 201 Mother Eve’s pudding, 438 | Sm Moths; to preserve furs from, 611, . Moulds for cakes, 532 +" jelly, 478 Muffins, 556 Muffin anderumpet pud- ding, 433 Mullagatawnee soup, 85 Mulled wine, 583 Mullets, 225 Muscles, 258 sauce, 290 for soup, 98 Mushrooms, 318 buttered, 220 ketchup of, 516 pickled, 506 : INDEX. 635 Mushrooms— powder of, 507 sauce, 274 to broil, 319 to fricassee, 319 to pot, 355 to make a purée, 319 to stew, 319 to test, 619 Mustard, 564 Mutton, 129 au d’Almoyse, 138 au gratin, 139 bladebone, grilled, 560 breast, 132 breast, collared, 358 camp dish, 139 China chiloe, 139 chine, 136 chops, 135 ; eutlets, 140 cutlets & la Maintenon, 141 cutlets & la Polonaise, 141 cutlets aux verts, 141 cutlets, Hindostanee fashion, 140 cutlets with potato purée, 140 cutlets en ragoiit, 140 devilled, 560 directions for choosing, haricots 55 English haggis, 136 ham, 180 ham, to cure, 347 haricét, 135 to hash, 137 haunch, roasted, 129 head, 143 heart, 143 en hochepot, 138 Trish stew, 137 kebobbed, 158 kidneys, 142 kidneys au vin de cham- pagne, 142 kidneys and rumps, 142 kidneys and tails, 142 leg, boiled, 133 leg, braised, 137 leg, with oysters, 134 leg, roasted, 132 leg, stuffed, 133 loin, roasted, 134 loin, stewed, 135 minced, 139 mullagatawnee soup, 85 neck, 134 pie, 400 pie, like venison, 402 and kidney pudding, 425 pilau, 139 rissules, |40 rvast, sauce for, 273 | Mutton— rolled, 131 saddle, or chine, 130 saddle, & la Portugaise, 131 sausages, 331 scallops, 139 Scotch haggis, 136 scrag, 134 scrag, & la Ste. Méné- hould, 141 shoulder, i31 to stew, 136 tail, 143 tongue, 143 tongue, cured, 345 trotters, 144 Nasturtium pickle, 509 vinegar, 515 Neapolitan macaroni, 361 Neat’s feet soup, 84 Nectar, 589 Nectarines, 437 Negus, 533 Nesselrode pode Ads | Newcastle modeof pick- ling salmon, 237 New College pudding, 436 New England pancakes, 381 Nibs, cocoa, 571 Noir, café, 565 Norfolk dumplings, 455 punch, 586 Normandy pippins, 472 Noyeau, 587 Nutriment in food, 27 Nuts, gingerbread, 547 preserved, Oak wainscot, to give a gloss to, 614 Observations on bread, 548 on cakes, 524 for the use of the mis- tress of a family, 1 on preserving, 481 Oil, to extract, 615 Oil lamps, 10 Olio, 325 Olives of beef, 124 veal, 161 Omelettes, 370 aux amaudes, 372 aux confiiures, 372 aux fines herles, 371 au naturel, 371 a la Tartare, 372 dhuitres, 372 | Omelettes— potato, 305 soufflée, 372 soufflee Francaise, 373 | Onions, 311 with eggs, 576 with fowls, 185 ickled, 504 pickled with cucum- bers, 505 with rabbits, 206 roast, 311 sauce, 271 soup, 91 to stew, 311 young, 311 Orangeade, 603 Orange butter, 466 cheesecakes, 419 compote, 495 cream, 464 ‘fool, 471 fritters, 385 jelly, 475. marmalade, 493 marmalade jelly, 501 peel, candied, 502 preserved, 489 preserved in jelly, 488 pudding, 446 punch, 586 syrup, 501 tartlet, 411 wine, 574 Orgeat, 603 Orpwood’s machine for roasting coffee, 566 Ortolans, 201 Oude (King of) curry, 296 sauce, 286 Ovens, 525 for baking bread, 552 brick, 552 Oxford dumplings, 454 puddings, 436 sausages, 331 Ox cheek, 116 cheek soup, 68 heart, 110 tail, 119 tail soup, 68 tongue, cured, 117 i fresh, 118 tongue, & la Pari isienne, 118 tongue, pique, 119 tongue, a la Prusse, 119 Oysters, 256 forcemeat of, 338 with fowls, 184 fritters, 385 with leg of mutton, 134 omelettes of, 372, patties, 405 pie, 28 636 Oysters — in veal pie, 398 scolluped, 256 rolls, 257 sauce, 290 sausages, 258, 332 soup, 97 vol au vent, 405 Paint, to clean, 614 - Palais de boeuf, 128 a la Mariette, 128 Palestine soup, 90 Panada, 336 chicken, 596 for fish quenelle, 336 Pancakes, 380 a la Polonaise, 382 apple, 381 Dutch, 381 French, 381 New England, 381 rice, 366 Paper for drawing pat- terns, 609 Paperhangings, to clean, 614 Parkin, 545 Parmesan puffs, 413 Parr, 238 Parsley, 208 and butter, 270 Parsnips, 308 fricassée, 308 mashed, 308 soup, 90 wine, 574 Partridge, 199 cold, sauce for, 282 pie, 394 potted, 353 sali of, 200 soup, 80 stewed, 199 Passover balls for soup, 63, 340 cakes, 536 Paste, 386 brioche, 391 for cheesecakes, 390 croquant, for covering preserves, 391 Ttalian, 369 Paste, putf, 388 for puddings, 429 Regent's, 412 rice, 468 for tarts, 390 very light, 389 Pastry, 336 Pasty, venison, 401 Faté of fish, 262 de gibier aux truffes,393 de macaroni, 353 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Patties, 404 of beef, 404 with curds, 418 Dresden, 417 of lobster, 405 mince for, 405 of oyster, 405 to resemble mince pies, 418 of shrimps, 405 sweet, 417 of turkey, 405 of veal, 404 Peaches, preserved, 486 Peafowl, 201 Pears, to bake, 489 to preserve, 489 to stew, 490 Peas, green, 305 with ducks, 191 fowls, 185 pigeons, 194 soup, 87 stewed, 305 stewed with mint, 306 stewed when old, 306 Peas pudding, 307 soup, 87 Pease porridge, 101 Pepperpot, 73 Perch, 245 Periwinkles, 98, 258 Perquisites of servants, Pettitoes, pigs’, 175 Pheasants, 199 potted, 353 soup, 80 Pickles, 503 jars for, 504 vinegar for, 503, 514 rules in using, 504 Pickle, India, 512 to keep for years, 350 lemon, 511 mixed, 512 “ salade,” 523 Pickled barberries, 508 cauliflowers, 510 cucumbers, 505 French beans, 508 garlic, 505 gherkins, 506 lemons, 510 mangoes, 511 mushrooms, 506 nasturtiums, 509 onions, 504 onions and cucumbers, 505 pork, 350 radish-pods, 508 red cabbage, 509 roots, 514 salmon, 237 shalots, 505 Pickled tomatas, 510 walnuts, 507 Pie-crust, 387 for Périgord pie, 388 for raised pies, 387 ich, 388 transparent, 390 short, 390 for venison pasty, 388 Pies, 392 apple, 410 beef or. mutton, to eat like venison, 402 beefsteak, 400 beefsteak and oyster 400 calf's foot, 399 calf's foot and kidney 399 calf’s head, 399 chicken, 394 Christmas, 403 codfish, 406 cold, 396 eel, 407 fish, 406 French, 396 fresh fruit, 409 fruit, 409 game, 393 giblet, 403 green goose, 403 hare, 395 icing for, 420 lamb, 4l0 Lent, 417 ling, 407 lobster, 408 meat, 392 to 404 mince, 416 mutton, 400 oyster, 408 .partridge, 394 pate de gibier, 393 pigeon, 404 pilchard and leek, 408 pork, 399 potato, 401 rabbit, 395 raised, 392 rhubarb, 411 sole, 407 squab, 491 Tipperary curry, 395 veal, 397 veal, cold, 397 veal and oyster, 398 veal and pork, 398 veal and sausage, 398 veal and sweetbread, 398 vegetable, 396 venison pasty, 401 Yorkshire goose, 492 Pig, collared, 359 sucking, |71 Pig’s feet, 175 Pig’s head, 359 Pigeons, 193 in jelly, 195 with peas, 194 pie, 404 pupton of, 194 ragout of, 194 vol-au-vent of, 406 wood, 195 Pike, 244 sauce for, 292 Pikelet, 556 Pilchard, 231 pie, 408 Pilau of mutton, 139 of rabbits, 208 Pippins, Normandy, 472 tart of, 410 Piquante, sauce, 283 Pistachio cream, 463 Plaice, 215 Plain living not the most wholesome, 26 Plate, to clean, 613 Platow’s coffee urn, 566 Plovers, 202 eggs, 202 Plum cake, 526 pudding, 425 Plums,magnum bonum, 490 preserved, 490 Poached eggs, 369 Poéle for fowls, 183 Poisson, réchautfé, 261 Poivrade sauce, 282 Polenta, 364 pudding, 452 Pomade divine, 606 Pomatum, to make, 605 Pomme mange, 450 Pommes, Charlotte de, A447 au beurre, 4419 gateau de, 450 Pontac ketchup, 523 Pork, 170 beily, 177 bladebone, 177 breast, 177 for bubble and squeak, 113 chine, 177 to choose, 55 cutlets, 173 curry, 174 to dress, 170 ears, 176 feet & la Ste. Méne- hould, 175 feet and ears, 176 forehand, 177 INDEX.. 637 ecllared, | Pork— griskin, 176 hams, 178 harslet, 177 jelly, 591 lard, 17% leg, 173 loin, 174 loin a ’Espagnole, 175 loin & la Portugaise, 174 neck, 174 pettitoes, 175 to pickle, 350 pie, 398 to roast a porker, 173 saddle, 174 shoulder, 177 sparerib, 176 spring, 177 sucking-pig, 171 Porridge, milk, 598 peas, 101 Portuguese sausages, 333 mode of dressing soles, 217 mode of dressing toma- tas, 323 Posset, 597 Pot au feu, 70 Potage a la reine, 77 de veau, 77 Potatoes, 299 a la maitre d’hétel, 304 balls of, 304 to brown, 203 cheesecakes, 420 to dress, 299 farcies, 305 flour of, 301 fried, 303 jelly of, 302 jelly of, for the sick, 592 to keep, 301 loaves, 303 to mash, 302 new, 301 old, to look like young, 303 omelette, 305 to peel, 301 pie, 401 , pudding, 453 puree of, 140, 304 roasted, 304 soup, 76 steam-hoiler for, 299 strainer for, 300 wall of, 302 Pot-pourri, 606 Potting, 351 beef, 354 chickens, 353 game, 353 ham, 354 hare, 354 lampreys, 352 Potting — mushrooms, 355 partridges, 353 pheasants, 353 poultry, 353 rabbits, 354 salmon, 236 shell-fish, 352 tongues, 354 veal, 354 Poularde, 182 a la royale, 184 Poulet blanc, 185 cOtelettes de, 186 Poultry, 180 blanc for chickens, 190 boiled, sauce for, 293 capon, 1&2 chickens, 189 curried chicken, 188 ducks, 191 dumpokht, 188 fowls, 183 fowls, broiled, 186 fowls, fricassées, 186 French method of ren- dering tender, 180 giblets stewed, 191 goose, 191 larks, 196 liver sauce for, 275 mode of drawing, 1&0 mode of dressing, 180 pigeons, 193 poéle for fowls, 183 to pot, 353 puree, 187 rissoles, 187 sausages, 332 toad-in-a-hole, 195 turkey, 181 wheaiears, 197 wood-pigeons, 195 Pound cake, 536 Powder, curry, 294 freezing, 468 mushroom, 507 Prawns, 253 curry of, 297 for soup, 97 Preserve, Almack’'s, 498 Preserved apricots, 485 apricots, dry, 486 apricots, in jelly, 486 barberries in bunches, 500 biffins, 490 greengages, 491 gooseberries, 492 lemons in jelly, 488 lemons for pastry, 489 magnum bonum plums, 490 melon, 487 nectarines, 487 oranges, in jelly, 488 oranges for pastry, 489 4 638 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY Preserved peaches, 486 | Puddings— pears, 489 plums, 491 rhubarb, 488 quinces, 489 Siberian crabs, 490 strawberries, 487 strawberries in wine, 488 Preserving, 481 fruits, 48 to 500 stove for, 479 Prices of provisions, 5 Prince Albert’s pud- ding, 442 Prince of Prussia’s pud- ding, 443 Protectionists’ ding, 441 Provincial cakes, 533 pudding, 453 Prunes, pudding of, 445 tart of, 412 Puddings, 420 a la Nesselrode, 445 almond, 435 apple, baked, 451 apple Charlotte, 447 apricot, 451 arrowroot, 432 Aunt Martha’s, 438 Bakewell, 439 Bath, 453 batter, 427 batter for fruit, 451 beefsteak, 423 Berlin, 445 bfscuit, 431 black, 333 blackcap, 440 brandy, 439 Brasenose, 457 bread, 429 bread, baked, 430 bread and butter, 430 brown bread, 430 cabinet, 440 Cambridge, 443 carrot, 452 checse, 380 Chichester, 453 chicken, 424 chocolate 433 cocoanut, 453 College, 426 Conservative, 441 cranberry, 450 creme dorge, 442 Curate’s, 437 curd, 429 custard, 428 custard, baked, 428 custard, boiled, 422 Dame Jones’s, 438 damson, 452 Lutch, 443 pud- economical, 453 Erechtheium, 438 fish, 424 French plums, 445 fruit, 450 fruit and batter, 451 game, 424 ' German, 444 Gloucester, 454 gooseberry, baked, 452 ground rice, 435 hasty, 453 Her Majesty’s, 442 herb, 425 hunter's, 427 Italian paste, 431 lemon, 447 lemon flavouring for, 516 macaroni, 431 Madeira, 444 maids of honour, 443 marrow, 428 Merton almond, 437 millet, 433 Montagu, 427 - Mother Eve's, 438 muffin and crumpet, 433 mutton and kidney, 423 New College, 436 orange, 44 orange marmalade, 494 paste for, 420 plum, 426 plum, rich, 425 plum, Shelford, 426 polenta, 432 potato, 453 Prince Albert’s, 442 Prince of Prussia’s, 443 Protectionist, 441 provincial, 453 prunes, 445 pumpkin, 446 quaking, 439 Queen Dowager’s, 443 quince, 450 rabbit, 424 - rector's, 437 reform, 441 rhubarb, 450 rice, baked, 434 rice, boiled, 434 rice, with fruit, 434 rolypoly, 440 Royal nursery, 442 saffron, 435 sago, 433 sago, to make, 421 sauce for, 2&8, 421 semolina, 432 sponge, 433 suet, 422 sweet, 425 sweet, directions a making, 421 sweetmeat, 440 Puddings — Swiss, 445 tansy, 425 tapioca, 432 transparent, 429 Trinity College, 436 vermicelli, baked, 431 vermicelli, boiled, 431 Vice-Chancellor’ s, 437 Welsh, 454 white, 334 Wiltshire, 453 Windsor Palace, 441 Yorkshire, 453 Puff paste, 388 Puffs, 412 apple, 413 Austrian, 414 cheese, 413 excellent light, 413 French, 414 German, 414 Trish, 414 Lady Abbess, 414 lemon, 413 Parmesan, 413 Spanish, 413 Pumpkin pudding, 446 Punch, 584 Colonel Hawker's cold, 585 George LY.’s, 585 iced, 469 milk, or verder, 585 Norfolk, 586 orange, 586 Regent’s, 586 tea, 585 Pupton of pigeons, 194 Purée de concombres, 285 eggs, 376 mushrooms, 319 potatoes, 149, 304 poultry, 187 tomatas, 322 de volaille, 187 Quails, 201 Quaking pudding, 439 Queen cakes, 528 Queen, Dowager’s pud- ding, 443 Queen Mary’ s sauce, 273 Quenelle, 336 de lapereau, 207 Queues de veau, 163 Qui Hi sauce, 287 Quin’s sauce, 523 Quince marmalade, 493 preserve, 489 pudding, 400 INDEX. Rabbit, Welsh, 379 Rabbits, 205 with Jerusalem arti- chokes, 205 curry of, 206 liver sauce for, 281 with onions, 205 pie, 395 pilau of, 208 potted, 354 pudding, 424 roast, sauce for, 281 sausages, 333 Radish pods, pickled, 508 Ragotts, beef, 125 calf’s head, 155 garniture, 167 mutton cutlets, 140 pigeons, 194 of sweetbreads, 167 vegetable, 324 Raised pies, 387, 392 erust for, 387 jelly for, 393 mode of making, 392 seasoning for, 393 Raisin wine, 576 with cider, 577 Raspberry cream, 465 and currant jelly, 478 jam, 499 vinegar, 515 Ramequins, 378 & la Parisienne, 378 Dutch, 379 fried, 379 with wine or ale, 379 Ratafia, 588 cakes, 535 cream, 466 cream ice, 468 Rats, to expel, 619 Ray (or maid), 217 soup, 95 Receipts, various, 604 Receipts, various— to dye the linings of furniture, 611 to dye gloves, 612 to make flannels not shrink, 611 to preserve furs and woollens from moths, 611 to take out grease, 611 to make honey water, 608 remedy for hooping- cough, 604 remedy for cuts and bruises, 605° make Hungary water, 608 to take out ironmoulds, go to make lavender water, 608 : to take out mildew, 611 to make soft pomatum, 605 to make hard pomaium, 606 to make pomade divine, 606 % to make potpourri, 606 to make sweet ‘pot- pourri, 607 Indian cure for rheu- matism, 604 ; for a very fine scent, 609 to take out stains from black cloth, 611 to take stains out of linen, 610 to make thieves’ vine- gar, 608 to destroy warts, 605 to make wash-balls, 607 for a water to preserve the hair, 609 Rector’s pudding, 437 Red cabbage, pickled, 509 to for bandoline for the | Red herrings, 230 hair, 609 for black paper for draw- ing patterns, 609 for black ink, 699 mode of applying a blister, 605 remedy for a burn or scald, 605 fcr cementing broken china, 6:0 to make paste for chapped hands, 607 make paste for chapped lips, 607 cure for chilblains, 604 to Rees, 202 Reform pudding, 441 Regent’s pastry, 412 punch, 586 Remedy for a burn or scald, 605. See Cure Rhenish cream, 464 Rheumatism, cure for, ‘604 Rhubarb pie, 411 to preserve, 488 pudding, 450 tart, 411 to make cold cream, 608! Rice, 365 cure for a cough, 604 for the dressing-table, 605 a la Portugaise, 366 and apples, 449 balls, 366 639 Rice— to boil, 295 cake, 532 casserole of, 367 caudle, 597 croquettes de, 366 flummery, 367 and fowls, 184 fritters, 366 ground, 435 and cranberry jelly, 478 pancake, 366 paste, 368 puddings, 434 soup, 76 and veal-cutlets, 157 whole, in a shape, 471 Ris de veau en caisses, 167 en ragotit, 167 Rissoles of beef kidney, 129 of fish, 261 mutton, 140 poultry, 187 Roach, 250 Reasting, 30 Roast ribs of beef, 104 sirloin of beef, 104 quarter of lamb, 145 haunch of mutton, 129 leg of mutton, 133 loin of mutton, 134 onions, 311 porker, 171 potatoes, 304 beef, sauce for, 273 fowls, sauce for, 276 mutton, sance for, «73 rabbit, sauce for, 281 sucking pig, 171 tongue, 118 veal, sauce for, 278 fillet of veal, !50 Robert sauce, 272 Rocks, 556 Rognons au vin de champagne, 142 ‘i Rolled calf’s head, 155 breast of veal, 159 mutton, 131 veal, 159 ' Rolls, 555 English, 555 French, 555 { oyster, 257 veal, 168 | Rolypoly pudding, 440 i Roots, pickled, 514 Rout drops, 535 Roux, 278 Royal nursery pudding, 42 » { Royale, sauce, 286 Ruffs, 202 640 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Rump steaks, 112 sauce for, 272 Rusks, 539 Rust, to take out of steel, 617 to preserve irons from, 617 Saffron pudding, 435 Sago, 598 milk, 598 pudding, 421, 433 soup, 68 Salad sauce, trout in, 238 Salads, 326 chicken, 327 cream for, 329 fish, 328 French, 328 Italian, 328 Kitchener’s Mixture, 326 lobster, 328 mixture, or dressing of, 326. Spanish, 328 vegetable, £29 for vinaigrette, 329 “ Salade,” a pickle, 523 Salamander, 39 Sally Lunns, 557 Salmi of partridges, 200 Salmon, 232 Aberdeen mode of dressing, 234 Berwick mode of dress- ing, 233 collared, 236 cutlets, 234 dried. 560 peel, 234 pickled, 237 potted, 236 Scotch modes of dress- ing, 233 Thames, 232 Saloop, 598 Salsifis, 322 Salt beef, 341 fish, 221 Salt-water fish, 209 Sanders’s mince beef, 125 Sandwiches, 564 Sauces, 265, 269 a la maitre d’hétel, 278 a la militaire, 521 a la reine, 286 a la Ste. Menéhould, 285 a la Tartare, 282 Acha, 283 anchovy, 521 apple, 279 _- Sauces— savoury apple, 279 artificial, for fish, 521 aux epinards, 285 bread, 282 brown, for fish, 289 maitre d’hotel butter, 270 melted butter, 269 parsley and butter, 270 caper, 271 Carachi, 286 celery, 274 chestnut, 275 Chetney, 287 Christopher North’s, 287 cockle, 290 crab, 291 cray-fish, 292 cream, with hare, 204 cullis, 278 ° currant, 280 Dutch, for fish, 290 egg, 270 fennel, 270 fish, 521 for carp, 292 for chickens, 276 for cold fowl, 282 for cold partridge, 282 for ducklings, 279 for eels, 293 for fish, 288, 289 for fricandeau, 278 for German pudding, 288 for geese, 279 for hare, 281 for pike, 292 for puddings, 288, 421 for roast beef, 273 for roast lamb, 273 for roast mutton, 273 for roast fowls, 276 for roast rabbit, 281 for roast veal, 278 for rump steak, 272 for soup, 63 for sturgeon, 292 for sucking-pigs, 280 for tench, 292 for white poultry,boiled, 275 for wild fowl, 280 for winged game, 281 garlic, 271 German pudding, 288 gooseberry, 279 Colonel Hawker's, 281 horseradish, 288 Indian pickle, 283 khicharee, 287 La Mayonnaise, 285 liaison, 278 liver, for hare or rabbit, | 281 liver, for poultry, 275 Sauces— lobster, 291 Manidram, 273 mint, 273 muscle, 290 mushroom, 274 onion, 271 Oude, 286 oyster, 290 parsley and butter, 270 piquante, 283 . piquante a l'Espagnole, 283 piquante & IlHollan- daise, 284 piquante & la Proven- cale, 284 piquante maigre, 284 Poivrade, 282 Queen Mary's, 273 Qui Hi, 287 Quin’s, 523 Robert, 272 roux, 278 Royale, 286 shalot, 272 shikaree, 280 shrimp, 291 store, 522 tomata, 284 tomata & la Francaise, 285 tomata & TItalienne, 284 tomata for winter use, 519 truffle, 275 universal, 523 vegetable marrow, 276 white, 276, 277 white, for fish, 289 wine pudding, 288 Sauer kraut, 323 Sausages, 330 beef, 331 Cambridge, 331 to eat cold, 331 fowl, 333 meat for, 330 modes of making, 330 mutton, 331 Oxford, 331 oyster, 258, 332 Portuguese, 333 poultry, 2322 rabbit, 333 Spanish, 333 ’ veal, 332 and veal pie, 398 ‘Sausage-meat with tur- key, 181 toast, 5#l Savoury applesauce,279 dishes for breakfast, 560 Savoy cake, 531 | Scald, remedy fer a, 605 ‘Scales, 44 INDEX. 641 pecieind of veal, 169 Scarlet beef, 115 runners, 318 Scent, 609 Science of cooking, 26 Scolloped fish, 259 lobster, 252 mutton, 139 oysters, 256 Scorzanera, 322 Scotch bun, 544 broth, 73 seed cake, 530 collops of veal, 156 baked haddock, 223 cropped heads of had- dock, 224 haggis, 136 hotchpotch, 73 marmalade, 494 mode of dressing sal- mon, 233 shortbread, 536 woodcock toast, 562 Scots kail soup, 70 Sea bream, 226 Sea kale, 313 Season, articles in, dur- ing each month, 622 for roast beef, 103 Seasoning, 34 for forcemeat, 338 for raised pies, 393 for soup, 63 Seed cakes, 529 Semolina, 369 pudding, 432 Servants, 6 Servants, directions to, 613 © to take the black off bright bars of stoves, 617 to blacken the fronts of stone chimney- pieces, 617 to make blacking for shoes, 618 to destroy bugs, 619 to give boards a beau- tiful appearance, 615 toclean calico furniture, 613 to clean carpets, 617 to clean floor-cloths, 616 to clean gilding, 613 to clean the grate, &c., 617 to clean cast-iron and black hearths, 617 to clean knives, 618 to clean looking-glasses, to clean marble, 619 to clean paint, 614 fervants, directions to— to clean oe eines, 614 to clean plate, 613 to clean stone stairs and hall, 616 to clean tin cover s, 618 to destroy flies, 614 to dust carpets and floors, 616 extract oil from boards or stone, 615 choose floorcloths, 616 to preserve gilding, 613 to give a fine colour to mahogany, 615 to take ink out of ma- hogany, 615 to take stains out of marble, 615 to test mushrooms, 619 to expel rats, 619 to take rust out of steel, 617 to preserve irons from Tust, 617 to keep away vermin, 619 to give a gloss to oak wainscot, 614 Shad, 246 Shalots, pickled, 505 sauce, 272 Sheep’s head, 143 head soup, 72 heart, 143 rump and kidney, 502 tails, 143 tongue, 143, 345 trotters, 144 trotters, jelly of, 591 Shelford plum pudding, 426 Shellfish, 250 Shikaree sauce, 280 Shortbread, 535 Short crust, 390 Shrewsbury buckwheat cakes, 558 cakes, 533 Shrimps, 253 patties of, 405 sauce, 291 for soup, 97 Shrub, 587 Sick, cookery for the, 590 apple-water, 603 arrowroot, 5%2 asses’ milk, 599 barley gruel, 599 _ barley water, 602 beef-tea, 595 broths, 593 caudle, 597 caudle, to make, 597 10 to Sick, cookery for the— chicken panada, 596 Cranberry juice, 603 drinks, 601 drinks for a fever, 60! a refreshing drink, 602 eggs, 596 weak green tea, 601 ground-rice milk, 599 barley gruel, 599 water gruel, 599 jellies, 591 lemonade, 603 lemon water, 602 lemon whey and vine: gar, 6?1 milk porridge, 598 sweet buttermilk, 600 sago milk, 599 orangeade, 6U3 orgeat, 603 panada, 596 posset, 597 sago, 598 saloop, 598 sippets, 596 soda-water, 602 tamarinds, 605 tapioca, 592 toast and water, 60! whey, 600 white-wine whey, 601 Sippets, 596 Sirloin of beef, 104 Skate, 217 crimped, 217 soup, 95 Skirrets, 322 Smelts, 249 Snipes, 201 Snow cream, 462 Soap, 10 Soda, 11 Soda cakes, 537 water, 602 Soles, 216 cutlets of, 216 grenade of, 260 fillets of, 216 meat stuffing for, 217 pie, 407 Somersetshire frumenty 467 syllabubs, 472 Sorrel, 324 Soufflé, 373 apple, 467 gooseberry, 467 omelette, 372 Sounds of cod, 220 Soups, 59 2 la Creci, 89 a la Julienne, 88 2 la Flamande, 89 & la Reine, 77 almond, 76 642 MODERN DOMESTC COOKERY. Soups— Soups— Stains from linen, 610 artichoke, 92 asparagus, 92 of beer and wine, 85 carrot, 90 celery, 91 to clarify, 62 cock-a-leekie, 1 codling, 96 cod's-head, 96 colouring of, 62 cottage, 70 crayfish, 97 eel, 98 fainily, 69 fish, 94 fish, stock for, 94 fish and stew, 99 fish maigre, 95, 98 fish maigre, stock for, 94 forcemeat balls for, 388 friars’ chicken, 77 game, 79 game, stock for, 79 giblet, 78 brown gravy, 66 clear gravy, 57 haddock, 96 hare, artificial, 81 hare, clear, 80 hare, thick, 80 harrico, 74 | ; hotchpotch, 73 hunters’, 79 kettle for, 61 lake and pond fish, 99 leek, 91 lentil, 88 ling for, 96 lobster, 96 macaroni, 67 maigre, 94, 99 maigre, of fish, 95, 98 maigre, of onions, 102 maigre, of green peas, 101 maigre, of split-peas, 101 maigre, of potatoes, 102 maigre, of turtle, 99 meat, 64 mock turtle, 83 mullagatawnee, 85 mullagatawnee mutton, 85 muscles for, 98 neats’ feet, 84 onion, 91 onion maigre, 102 ox-cheek, 68 ox-tail, 68 oyster, 97 Palestine, 90 parsnip, 90 partridge, 80 passover balls for, 63, = 340 pea, dried or split, 87 pea, green, 87 pea, green, maigre, 101 pea, split, maigre, 101 pepperpot. hotchpotch, 73 periwinkles for, 98 pheasant, 80 potato, maigre, 102 potato, white, 76 prawns for, 97 ray or skate, 95 rice, 76 sago, 68 sauces for, 63 Scotch hotchpotch, 73 Scots kail, 70 seasoning for, 63 sheep's head, 72 shrimps for, 97 skate, 95 spring, 93 spring, thick, 93 stock for, 65 summer, 93 tomata; 91 turnip, 91 turtle, 82 turtle, maigre, 99 turtle, mock, &3 turtle, imitation mock, 154..: veal pottage, 77 of vegetables, 86 vegetable marrow, 90 venison, 82 vermicelli, 67 white, 75 white potato, 76 white stock, 74 of wine and beer, 85 winter, 93 Sour crout, 323 Spanish buns, 544 cake, 538 puffs, 413 salad, 328 sausages, 333 Sparerib of pork, 176 Spiced beef, 342 Spinach, 312 a la Franeaise, 312 cream, 463 with eggs, 376 sauce, 285 stewed with cream, 312 Spit, cradle, 39 Split peas, pudding of, 307 Sponge cakes, 531 lemon, 466 pudding, 433 Sprats, 231 Spring soup, 93 Squab pie, 401 Staffordshire syllabubs, 472 Stains from black cloth, 611 of from marble, 618 Stairs, to clean, 616 Starch, 11 Steaks, beef; 111 lamb, 148 rump, 112 venison, 189 Steam boiler for fo- tatoes, 298 Stewed apples, 410 artichokes, 314 _ beans, 307 beef, 106, 111 brisket of beef, 108 leg of beef, 108 rump of beef, 107 steaks of beef, 111 tongue of beef, 118 cheese, 379 fish, 212 fish, Hebrew fashion,264 giblets, 191. - lamb, 146 breast of lamb, 146 loin of lamb, 146 shoulder of lamb, 146 mushrooms, 319 mutton, 137 loin of mutton, 135 onions, 311 partridge, 199 pears, 305 peas, 312 spinach, 490 tomatas, 323 breast of veal, 153 veal, 156 ‘ Stewing, 30 ’ Stock, brown, 65 | for gravy, 267 pot, 65 for soups, 64 Store room, 9 sauces, 522 Stove forpreserving,479 Strainer for potatoes,300 Strawberries preserved, 487 preserved in wine, 488 Strawberry jelly, 477 Stuffed: leg of mutton, ee eee ee seasoning for, 358 for soles, 217 Sturgeon, 239 cutlets, 241 sauce for, 292 Sucking-pig, 171 sauce for, 280 Suet, 34 dumplings, 455 pudding, 422 INDEX. 643 Suffolk dumplings, 454 | Thames salmon, 232 Utensils, culinary, 39 Sugar, 10. Thieves’ vinegar, 608 z to boil, 480 Thornback, 217 Vanilla cream, 461 to clarify, 480 Timbale de macaroni, Pee ree sean |e Vasiou eit, 6 wartzain phe ; K Sweetbreads,lamb’s, 147 pe ee at, BIS) Veal 150 and veal pie, 398 1 LPP at eS les 395 & la Chartreuse, 169 veal, 165 Tipsy cake, 470 blanquettes, 168 yol auvent of, 406 ~ | load-in-a-hole, 191 brains, 163 Sweet puddings, 421, | Toast and butter, 559 breast, 151 425 and cheese, 380 breast, collared, 358 Sweetmeat, composi- dry, 559 . breast, .rolled,.159 ee % and waiter, 601 breast, stewed, 151 Lily rath Toasts, 561 cake, 167 pudding, 440 Sweetmeats, 481 to choose, 54 anchovy, 561 collops, 156 German, 561 cakes, 540 punch, 585 eggs for, 340 stewed, 156 Swiss biscuits, 541 ham, 562 curry, 170 pudding, 445 kidney, 562 cutlets, 157 Syllabubs, 472 sausage, 561 cutlets, with rite, 157 Devonshire, 472 vegetable, 561 one l' Hollandaise, srotlastih g, 472 Thee 562 cutlets, &I’Italienne,1:8 » F148 rs ? ears, 163 i ne Tomata ete 519 farce of, 337 aay eae ts sauce, 284, 919 farcies, 158 pe igi on aenaly soup, 91 feet, 162 Sy ee ginger, « - Tomatas, 322 fillet, boiled, 150 or liqueurs, 589 baked, 223 fillet, roasted, 150 orange, 501 pickled, 510 fricandeau, 160 Table, lights for, 3 as dressed in Portugal, fricandels, 160 how to cover a, 2 323 galantine, 161 b a puree of, 322 eravy, 268 direction of a, 2 t = haxich 7 Teliani, 382 che en ri s ss 5 v Tamarind juice, 603 Tongue, ox, 117 head, 154 Tansy pudding, 425 potted, 254 heart, 165 Tapioca, 592 Transparent orange imitation of mock mins . 29 4 ; S turtle, 154 Tapioca pudding, 432 marmalade, 494 3 Tarragon vinegar, 515 pie-crust, 390 ee ae Tartare, omelette a la pudding, 429 commit a 91m: knuckle, 153 372 Trifle, 469 liver, 164 sauce & la, 282 Trinity College pud- loin, 151 Tarts, 410 ding, 434 to marble, 169 codling, 410 Tripe, 120 to mince, 169 cranberry, 412 Trotters, sheep’s, 144 miroton, 191 crust for, 390 Booisk 937 ? neck, 152 paste, for, 390 Tr file 20. neck, a Ja braise, 153 pippin, 410 rufiles, 32 olives, 162 rhubarb, 411 sauce, «75 patties, 404 Nartlets, 411 Tunbridge cake, 534 ie, 397 artlets, ’ ple, ‘ dz la Paganini, 412 Turbot, 213 to pot, 354 green apricots, 412 Turkey, 181 pottage, 7 a lemon, 411 patties, 405 roast, sauce for, 278 orange, 411 with sausage-meat, 181 rolled, 159 prune, 412 Turnip soup, 91 i 38% sa or ee Turnips, 309 scallops, 169 Rieeniie. 541 Turnip-tops, 309 Scotch collops, 156 ee ane Turtle, 82 shoulder, 152 fish, 262 sweetbread, 165 Tes bis * sing ent forcemeat for, 339 sweetbread, & la Daube, ore mock, §3 165 Tench, pres ean soup, 82 sweetbread, en caisses, sauce fer, Tendons de veau, 159 Udder, 3839 sweetbread en ragott, Terms, foreign, 45 Universal sauces, 523 167 644 MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Veal— | Venison, 197 tail, 163 to choose, 56 tendons, 159 gravy for, 268 tendons aux épinards, hashed, 198 160 mutton like, 268 tendons & la Viileroy, to pot beef in imitation of, 355 vol-au-vent, 406 soup, 82 egetable marrow, 315 spe es if oe 276 “2 VERO R Ona 401 soups, 86 crust for, 388 Vegetables, 298 Verder, or milk punch, artichokes, 314 585 asparagus, 313 Vermicelli, 364 beetroot, 309 pudding, 431 bredic of, 325 ~ soup, 67 broad-beans, 307 Vermin, tokeepaway,619 brocoli, 317 Vice-chancellor’s pud- cabbages, 310 di 437 cardoons, 321 SARE, S04 Kap carrots, 308 Vienna cake, 532 cauliflowers, 317 Vinaigrette, 329 celery, 316 Vinegar, 514 chestnuts, 321 camp, 514 chicoree, 324 Chili, 516 cucumbers, 315 cucumber, 514 curry of, 325 gooseberry, 515 to dress, 298 and lemon whey, 601 endive, 324 nasturtium, 515 French beans, 318 for pickles, 503 fried herbs, 320 for India pickle, 514 garlic, 311 raspberry, 515 gourds, 313 tarragon and _ elder green peas, 305 flower, 515 haricots blancs, 321 thieves’, 608 hints on, 11 walnut, 514 Jerusalem artichokes, Vol-au-vent, 405 315 of croquettes, 406 leeks, 312 of fish, 264 lettuce, 310 of oysters and sweet- mushrooms, 318 bread, 405 olio, 325 of pigeons and sweet- onions, 311 bread, 406 parsnips, 308 of veal, 406 peas, 305 pie, 396 Wafers, 533 potatoes, 299 to 305 fruit, 496 potatoes, French re-| Wages of servants, 7 Le ey 304 Wall of potatoes, 302 salad, 396 Walnut ketchup, 517 pickle, 507 vinegar, 514 Warts, cure for, 605 salsafis, 322 sauer kraut, 323 scarlet runners, 318 scorzanera, 322 Wash-balls, 607 sea-kale, 313 Water, apple, 603 skirrets, 322 barley, 602 sorrel, 324 honey, 608 _ soup, 86 Hungary, 608 spinach, 312 ices, 469 split-peas pudding, 307 lavender, 608 toast, 561 lemon, 602 tomata, 322 soda, 602 truffles, 320 zoutchee, 243 turnips, 309 Water gruel, 599 turnip-tops, 309 Welsh beef, 344 vegetable marrow, 315 pudding, 454 Veloute, 48, 268 rabbit, 379 Velvet cream, 463 ‘ Westphalia hams, 347 Wheatears, 197 Whey, 600 lemon, 601 white wine, 601 Whilks, for soup, 98 White bait, 250 White puddings, 334 sauce, 277 sauce for fish, 289 soup, 75 potato soup, 76 stock, 7 Whitings, 224 Widgeons, 202. 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