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SHILLING COOKERY 
 
 THE PEOPLE: 
 
 EMBRACING 
 
 AN ENTIRELY NEW SYSTEM OF PLAIN COOKERY, 
 AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 
 
 BY 
 
 ‘ALEXIS SOYER, 
 
 AUTHOR OF “THE MODERN HOUSEWIFE,” 
 ETC, ETC. 
 
 Tenth Chousand. 
 
 LONDON: 
 GEO. ROUTLEDGE & CO., FARRINGDON STREET. 
 NEW YORK: 18, BEEKMAN STREET, 
 1854. 
 
 [The Author of this work Yeserves the right of translating zt.] 
 
ms LN eel 
 
 be LONDON: tes) ee 
 SAVILL AND EDWARDS, PRINTERS, 
 Biante CHANDOS STREET, 
 
 ae . S 
 « . 3 
 z , pe 
 
TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE 
 
 THE EARL OF SHAFTESBURY, 
 
 ETC. EITC. ETC. 
 
 My Lorp, 
 
 Tue kind condescension which permits 
 the dedication of this work to one of such eminent 
 philanthropic sentiments as your Lordship, has a claim 
 upon my most profound gratitude, and more than repays: 
 
 me for the time and study I have devoted to its production. 
 
 With the highest consideration, 
 
 I have the honour to be, 
 Your Lordship’s most humble and 
 
 obedient servant, 
 
 ALEXIS SOYER. 
 
ee ee 
 ert [ay wey 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 In the course of a long and laborious career, entirely de- 
 voted, both in study and practice, to the preparation of the food 
 of man. in a manner most conducive to his health,—I have 
 published two works on Modern Cookery, both of a different 
 character, namely, ‘ The Gastronomic Regenerator, adapted 
 for the higher class of epicures; the second, for the easy middle 
 class, under the. title of the ‘Modern Housewvfe.’ The success 
 of both I gratefully acknowledge as having far exceeded my 
 expectations. 
 
 While actively employed, under the authority of government, 
 in a mission to Ireland, in the year of the famine, 1847, it struck 
 me that my services would be more useful to the million than 
 confining them, as I had hitherto done, to the wealthy few. I 
 immediately set to work, but soon found out my error, that I was 
 merely acquainted with the manners and ways of living of the 
 
 above two classes of society, for whom I had previously catered. 
 
 Perceiving that it would be impossible to cure a disease with- 
 out first arriving at its cause and origin, I found that the only 
 
 course I had to pursue was to visit personally the abodes, and 
 
Will PREFACE. 
 
 Jearn the manners of those to whom I was about to address 
 
 amyself, and thereby get acquainted with their wants. 
 
 My readers will easily perceive that, whilst semi-buried in my 
 ¥ashionable culinary sanctorum at the Reform Club, surrounded 
 by the élite of society, who daily honoured me with their visits in 
 that lounge of good cheer, I could not gain, through the stone 
 walls of that massive edifice, the slightest knowledge of Cottage 
 life. 
 
 Determined to carry out my long thought of project, I cheer- 
 fully bade adieu to my wealthy employers, leaving them in a most . 
 ‘thriving condition, regretting only my fair visitors; and, like a 
 joyful pilgrim of the olden time, I set forth on my journey, 
 visiting on my route every kind of philanthropic and other use- 
 ful institution, but more especially the domains of that indus- 
 trial class, the backbone of every free country—the People,—to 
 whom for the present I bid farewell, leaving them in the hands 
 “of ma chére Hortense, who will relate to them, with her usual 
 _ vaffability, the result of my visits through the United Kingdom. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Letter ; : : ;: 
 
 Letter : i 4 ‘ 7 
 Letter f ‘ 
 Soups in Iron Saucepan + or Stewpan ; j 
 Gridiron - “ i J . 
 Fish on Gridiron d e 
 
 How to Boil all kinds ee Fish 4 
 
 Fish in Tin-pan in Oven 
 Fried Fish 3 
 The Three-legged Tron-pot 
 | Important Observations on Curing Hams and Bacon 
 Lamb . ; 2 
 _Ox-liver as used i: in France 
 
 French Pot-au-feu : 
 
 Important Remarks on Cod- liver Oil 
 | Carthusian of Meat and Vegetables 
 
 ~ General Ignorance ef the Poor i in Cooking 
 The Gridiron and Frying-pan . 
 Important Remarks on Steak and Rumpsteak 
 Introduction to Frying-pan 
 
 Fowls i ‘ i 
 Curious Effects of Imagination , : 
 
 Introduction to Baking heed Me 
 
 Hints on the Pig : f d 
 On Roasting . ° a 4 ‘ 
 How to Roast z 
 On the Economy of Roasting by Gas, Note R 
 Cottage Roasting ‘ 2 ‘ 
 Time-table for Roasting ; : 4 
 On Meat in Baker’s Oven i 4 : 
 A few Hints on Baking Meat. . ¥ Ps 
 An Improved Baking-dish. ‘ 7 : 
 A Series of Receipts on Baked Meats. é 
 Meat Puddings : . P 
 Meat Pies . 4 5 
 
 Vegetables . 
 General Lesson on the Cooking of Vegetables ; 
 
 Plant called the Thousand Tadd it ‘ 
 
 ee ee ey eee Sea 
 
 * s e ° e e ° 
 
 coy oe ies ee pe 
 
 e 2 . e es  ¢@ e 2 e e e 
 
 2 e ° ° e e o * s 
 
x CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 Eggs . P - a Fs : Pn 2) 
 Omelettes or Fraise : . : : ape Ys 
 On Pastry : é . ; Lee 
 National French Cake, 0 or Galette , 4 “ . 125 
 Introduction to Sweet and Savoury Pies 3 . . 126 
 Sweet and Fruit Puddings ; : ; . »» 125 
 Observations on Bottled Preserves ; : . . 184 
 Stewed Fruits . : . : ‘ . 140 
 Sweet and Fruit Cakes _ ; ; ; ‘ . 142 
 Bread . : ‘ 4 : : . 146 
 Sauces : ‘ ‘ = ‘ “ em 
 Salads. ; : 5 : . . 2 BS 
 Relishes < . . : A ‘ » e159 
 Mushrooms . : : : : ery: 
 Culinary, Miscellaneous . : ; ‘ 5 BT 
 Pickles ! : : . 166 
 A few Hints on Coffee, Tea, &e. . : : Sab. 
 Beverages y 168 
 Series of New and Cheap Drinks " 170 
 On Marketing . : . ; oid Hab: 
 Kitchen Requisites ; : : . 74 
 On the Selection of Vegetables . : : ke 
 Soyer’s Aerial Cooking Stove . : : > iy 8 
 Visit to the Crystal Palace , “ - : . eee 
 
 IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 First, most of the receipts, having been especially written for the 
 various ordinary kitchen utensils, some of them may appear to the 
 reader to be repetitions, which is not the case, as the same food may 
 be used, yet each process will differ one from the other, from having 
 been cooked in a different manner. 
 
 Secondly, to obviate the reading of two or three receipts to be able 
 to execute one, I have made each receipt in itself as complete as 
 possible, as regards seasoning and proportion, and the few references £ 
 unavoidably make will, after a little practice, become familiar to my 
 readers. 
 
 Many of the receipts may appear to you rather lengthy, but I 
 want to draw your attention to the fact, that they are more than 
 receipts—indeed, I may call them plain lessons, some containing a 
 number of receipts in one. 
 
 In some cookery books many receipts are explained in few lines, 
 which at first sight gives to the thing the appearance of simplicity ; 
 but when acted on by the uninitiated are found totally impracticable. 
 
 By my plan my readers may read and prepare the contents of two 
 or three lines at a time, so that when they get at the end of a lesson, 
 their dish will be found well seasoned and properly cooked. 
 
INTRODUCTORY LETTERS. 
 
 ‘Dear Enorss, 
 
 Morr than a year has now elapsed 
 since I wrote to you, with a promise that I would send 
 you such receipts as should be of use to the artisan, 
 mechanic, and cottager. The time has, however, passed 
 so quickly, that I was not aware of its hasty flight, until 
 _ I took up the last edition of our “Housewife.” But 
 still, dearest, I must say I have not lost any time ; for you 
 will find that my letters, which have conveyed my receipts 
 from time to time, have been dated from almost every 
 county in the United Kingdom. 
 
 In the course of my peregrinations, I have made a 
 point of visiting the cottages and abodes of the industrious 
 classes generally, and have also closely examined the pecu- 
 liarities and manners which distinguish each county, as 
 well as the different kinds of labour; and I have viewed 
 with pleasure the exertions made by philanthropic indi- 
 viduals to improve the morals of the labouring class, and 
 render their dwellings more comfortable. Butstill I have 
 jound a great want of knowledge in that one object which 
 produces almost as much comfort as all the rest put together, 
 viz., the means of making the most of that food which the 
 great Architect of the Heavens has so bona trally, spread 
 before us on the face of the globe. 
 
4 INTRODUCTORY LETTERS, 
 
 Those who visit these humble abodes to inculcate the 
 divine precepts of the Saviour of mankind, do but half the 
 great work, unless they at the same time show how those 
 things which the Almighty has created as food for man 
 can be employed towards his nourishment. 
 
 In some of my letters, my dear friend, I think I have 
 sent you a description of some scenes I witnessed in the 
 course of my rambles, especially in Ireland, resulting from 
 a want of knowledge, all of which bears a moral; and 
 what a high feeling of delight and satisfaction it will be 
 to us, should we find that the result of our labour is 
 crowned with success, in ameliorating the conditions of 
 these classes; for believe me, I was right when I stated 
 that the morals of a people greatly depend on their food; 
 and wherever the home of an individual, in whatever class 
 of society he may move, is made comiortable and happy, 
 the more moral and religious will that person be. 
 
 Dearest Hortense, 
 
 T highly approve of your plan ; 
 it is time that it was put into action. I am fearfal that 
 our friends, the public, to whom we promised, some four 
 years since, a work like the present, will have become 
 impatient; but they will be gainers by the delay, as by 
 your visits to the various parts of the United Kingdom, 
 you have obtained that insight into the domestic arrange- 
 ments of the class of persons for whom it is intended, that 
 could not be obtained by any other means, 
 
INTRODUCTORY LETTERS, 3 
 
 » Your new plan of writing a series of receipts peculiarly | 
 
 adapted for such humble utensils as the gridiron, frying- 
 pan, iron pan, and black pot, is at once original, and 
 cannot fail of being very effective; for no matter how 
 humble or poor the dwelling, one of those faithful 
 servants are sure to be found at its post; and I do not 
 doubt but that, under your tuition, they will prove of 
 greater value to the public at large than they hitherto 
 have been. 
 
 If a person, after purchasing this work for a shilling, 
 had to lay out five or six more in kitchen utensils before 
 he could cook by it, it would be a great drawback on 
 its worth; but by your happy and simple style, you have 
 so successfully avoided all complicated matters in its 
 pages, that nothing will be requisite but the aforesaid 
 simple kitchen implements to bring it into action. ' 
 
 I also perceive, with pleasure, that. you have not 
 omitted the slightest article of cheap food of any descrip- 
 tion, which, with the numerous receipts you give for 
 dressing the same, must prove a great blessing to many, 
 and only require to be introduced to the notice of the 
 public to form a part of their daily diet. 
 
 It is to be regretted that men of science do not interest 
 themselves more than they do on a subject of such vast 
 magnitude as this; for I feel confident that the food of 
 a country might be increased at least one-third, if the 
 culinary science was properly developed, instead of its 
 being slighted as it is now. I myself think it worthy 
 the attention of a peer of the realm; for, as you justly 
 observe, the morals of a country greatly depend on the 
 
 B 2 
 
a INTRODUCTORY LETTERS. 
 
 production and preparation of its food, and most heartily 
 do I re-echo your sentiments. 
 
 My DEAREST FRIEND, 
 
 You are right. Cookery, in our era, 
 has been thought beneath the attention of men of science ; 
 and yet, was there ever a political, commercial, or even a 
 domestic event, but what always has been, and always will 
 be, celebrated either by a banquet or a dinner? And pray, 
 who is answerable for the comfort and conviviality of the 
 guests of such festivals but the cook, who has been in- 
 trusted with such important duties? The selection of good 
 and proper beverages will, of course, greatly assist the 
 cook’s endeavours; but these may be purchased months, 
 or even years, before you require them, which would of 
 course give you an ample chance of remedying any error ; 
 while a dinner is the creation of a day and the success of 
 amoment. Therefore you will perceive that nothing more 
 disposes the heart to amicable feeling and friendly trans-_ 
 actions, than a dinner weil conceived and artistically 
 prepared. 
 
 In ancient times, a cook, especially if a man, was looked 
 upon as a distinguished member of society ; while now he 
 is, in the opinion of almost every one, a mere menial. 
 
 Still there are a few who highly appreciate the know- 
 ledge he possesses, especially in the higher circles, who 
 have classified cookery as a high art. For example, let 
 us see what one of the greatest chemists of the day 
 
INTRODUCTORY LETTERS. 5 
 
 (Liebig) says on this imperishable subject, in his cag 
 work, “The Chemistry of Food,” that 
 
 “ Among all the arts known to man there is none which enjoys 
 a juster appreciation, and the products of which are more 
 universally admired, than that which is concerned in the pre- 
 paration of our food. Jed by an instinct, which has almost 
 reached the dignity of conscious knowledge, as the unerring 
 guide, and by the sense of taste, which protects the health, the 
 experienced cook, with respect to the choice, the admixture, and 
 ‘the preparation of food, has made acquisitions surpassing all 
 that chemical and physiological science have done in regard to 
 the doctrine or theory of nutrition. In soup and meat sauces, 
 he imitates the gastric juice; and by the cheese which closes the 
 banquet, he assists the action of the dissolved epithelium of tha 
 stomach. The table, supplied with dishes, appears to the 
 observer like a machine, the parts of which are harmoniously 
 fitted together, and so arranged that, when brought into action, © 
 a maximum of effect may be obtained by the theory of them. 
 The able culinary artist accompanies the sanguineous matter 
 with those which promote the process of solution and sanguifi- 
 cation, in due proportion; he avoids all kinds of unnecessary 
 stimuli, such as do not act in restoring the equilibrium; and he 
 provides the due nourishment for the child or the weak old man, 
 as well as for the strong of both sexes.” 
 
 Such is the high eulogium paid to culinary science by 
 that learned man; and perhaps there is no one more able 
 of appreciating its value than him. Therefore I do not 
 yet despair of seeing the day when that science, like 
 others, will have its qualified professors. I now close our 
 labours for the present, and wait with anxiety the first 
 proof, which on receiving I will immediately correct and 
 forward to you. 
 
 oS aan Pe ee eee TN eee ey ee Pa ek eee 2 cil daa 
 | ; . ih es ty ie 
 
' 
 
 COOKERY FOR THE PEOPLE. 
 
 SOUPS, IN IRON SAUCEPAN, 
 OR STEWPAN. 
 
 SIMPLIFIED STOCK FOR SOUPS, CAVED AND 
 PLAIN SAUCES. 
 
 E101se,—Perhaps you are not aware of the reason why the great 
 majouity of people in this country are opposed to, and even accused 
 of not liking, soup; the simple reason is, that every receipt described 
 in most Cookery Books, is so complicated and expensive, that they 
 cannot afford either the money, time, or attention, to prepare it. I 
 will therefore endeavour, in this little book, to obviate that difficulty, 
 by simplifying the receipts, and reduce it to a system alike quick, 
 nutritious, wholesome, and economical; and thus soup may form a 
 part of the daily fare of every dinner table. 
 
 Please pay particular attention to the following receipt, for when 
 you are perfect in it, and can make it quick and well, almost 
 every sort of soup can be made from it, and it will often be referred 
 to in different sauces and dishes. 
 
 1. Stock for Clear Soup. First Lesson —Cut two pounds 
 of knuckle or scrag of veal into small pieces, place them in the 
 iron pot a stewpan, with two ounces of salt butter or dripping, 
 two ounces of lean bacon cut small, three teaspoonfuls of salt, 
 half a spoonful of pepper, a gill of water, three middle-sized, or 
 six ounces of, onions sliced. Put on the fire; when boiling, stir 
 round with a spoon for about ten minutes, or until it forms a 
 whitish thick gravy at the bottom, or gets rather dry, then add 
 five pints of hot or cold water ; when boiling, let it simmer gently 
 for three quarters of an hour, skim it well, pass it through a 
 sieve, and it will be found clear and ready for use for the 
 
 following soups. Only one third of this quantity need be made. 
 
8 SOUPS. 
 
 In case bacon or ham cannot be obtained, use half a nol more 
 meat and a little more salt. 
 
 The meat not being overstewed, will be found excellent eaten 
 ‘ plain, or with parsley : and butter, or any sauce. 
 
 2. Second Lesson.— Proceed exactly as No. 1. Add two 
 cloves and about two ounces of carrot, and the same of turnip, 
 leeks, celery, or a quarter of a pound of one of them, if you 
 cannot get the variety. To add more zest to the flavour, add 
 the riallest quantity of thyme, winter savory, or a bay leaf. 
 You are, no doubt, aware that at present, in most market towns, 
 an assorted lot of vegetables may be obtained at one penny per 
 plate, and sometimes at one halfpenny. This second lesson is 
 very important, as it gives you the key whereby you may pay 
 the flavour of every kind of soup. 
 
 Note. This broth is of a nice white colour, and should # be 
 required to look like sherry wine, add sufficient colouring, (see 
 No. 462), or half a burnt onion when it is making: these in most 
 large cities are now becoming common, and may be procured it the 
 grocers, at the cost of eightpence the pound. They will go a, great 
 way, and if kept in a dry place will last for years. 
 
 3. Brown Gravies—The following is very good ohn 
 sauce, and also for every kind of roast meat, game, or ae 
 and a gill of it may be used to give a colour to any kind of 
 broth, find of colouring or burnt onions. As there is a little 
 difficulty to make it properly, it should only be done on Demonia 
 occasions. 
 
 Grease the bottom of the pot with about two dank of fat, 
 butter, or dripping; cut four onions in thick slices crossways, lay 
 them on the bottom, and place over them three pourds of leg 
 or shin of beef, or clod and sticking; cut it slantway i ‘In pieces, 
 chop the bone, then add two teaspoonfuls of salt, half 1 spoonful 
 of pepper; set it on the fire until it begins to hiss, which 
 indicates that all the moisture is dispersed; reduce the heat of 
 the fire by throwing ashes on the top; put on the pan with the 
 cover over. Let the onions stew until quite brown, but not 
 burnt, and the fat is as clear as oil, which you will easily perceive 
 by holding the pan or pot on one side, the contents of which will 
 be anohing hot, and stick to the bottom, though nos burning ; 
 immediately add five pints of cold water ; when boiling, ard 
 and simmer one hour; pass through the sieve, and put by till 
 
SOUPS, 9 
 
 wanted. It will keep for many days in winter, and also in - 
 summer, by boiling it every other day, with the addition of half 
 a gill of water added to it now and then. 
 
 4. Lesson No. 2.—The remains of roast or boiled meats, 
 game, poultry, &c., may be added, cut up, and the bones broken, 
 using only half the quantity of meat. The meat may be taken 
 out and served separate, with a mustard or any sharp sauce. 
 
 ' The addition of cloves (say four), a little mace, carrots, turnips, 
 and celery, and a few sweet herbs, will vary the flavour of the 
 gravy. 
 
 5. Clear Vegetable Soup, Lesson No. 1.—Cut in small dice, 
 two-thirds of carrots and turnips, and one-third of onions, leeks, 
 and celery, altogether about half a pound ; wash them well, drain, 
 put into pan or iron pot, two ounces of butter or dripping, and a 
 teaspoonful of sugar; put on the fire, stir often; when no moisture 
 is to be seen add three pints of broth No. 1, simmer and skim, 
 until the carrots are tender, and serve. If all the above vege- 
 tables cannot be obtained at the same time, use the same weight 
 of either. Be careful that you remove the fat from all clear 
 soup. All clear vegetable soup, when done, ought to partake 
 of a brownish colour. 
 
 6. Lesson No. 2.—The addition of a few green peas, when in 
 season, also small pieces of brocoli, a cauliflower, or a few 
 Brussels sprouts, previously boiled, makes an improvement in the 
 above. A little chervil and tarragon render it both pleasant 
 and refreshing. : 
 
 7. Clear Turnip, Lesson No. 3.—Peel and cut in large dice 
 half a pound of turnips, put in pan with butter or fat, and a little 
 sugar; proceed as above, Lesson No. 1, add the broth, simmer, 
 skim, and serve. It will not require so long doing as No. 1. 
 Give it a nice brown colour. If turnips are either streaky or 
 spongy, they will not do. 
 
 8. Jerusalem Artichokes.—Wash, peel, cut in dice, and fry as 
 above ; when nothing but the clear fat is seen in the pan, and they 
 are sufficiently done, add the broth. A few minutes will cook 
 them. 
 
 9. Carrot Soup.—For carrots proceed as above, and simmer 
 tilltender; they take twice as long as the artichokes doing. 
 
10 SOUPS. 
 
 10. Vermicelli and Macaroni.—Pray, Eloise, why should not 
 the workman and mechanic partake of these wholesome and nu- 
 tritious articles of food, which have now, in consequence of those 
 restrictive laws on provisions having been repealed, become so 
 plentiful and cheap? It only requires to know how to cook them, 
 in order that they should become as favourite a food in these 
 northern climes, as they are inthe southern.* Boil three pints 
 of the broth No. 1, break into it a quarter of a pound of 
 vermicelli or macaroni; boil till tender, and serve. Macaroni 
 takes twice as long as vermicelli doing. 
 
 Or, the macaroni can be boiled separate, and kept in salt and 
 water for some days, and used as required for soups and made 
 dishes. 
 
 11. Rice.—Wash well two ounces of common Bengal rice ; boil 
 it gently in three pints of broth ; when tender, serve. 
 
 12. Tapioca and Semolina.—In case of illness, two ounces of 
 tapioca or semolina may be used instead. 
 
 13. White Soup with Meat——When the broth No. 1 is fond, 
 skim off the fat, put the meat in the tureen, then put into a 
 basin two ounces of flour, mix gently with half a pint of milk, 
 a half teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper; add 
 to the broth by degrees; boil it ten minutes, and keep stirring ; 
 skim and serve with the meat. Fried or toasted bread cut in dice 
 may be added. 
 
 14. Good White Mock Turtle Soup may be easily and cheaply 
 made thus :—Purchase a calf’s head; if large, use one half for 
 a day’s dinner; cook as receipt No. 87; take ‘the remains of 
 that, if any, with the other half, and remove the bone; cut the 
 meat into square pieces; add it in proportion of one pound of 
 meat to every four quarts of broth of No. 1; mix some flour and 
 milk, as above, and add it to it, and half a teaspoonful of 
 cayenne pepper, and four cloves; let it simmer on the fire for 
 one hour, tie up six sprigs of savory, same of thyme, which put 
 into the soup, and remove when serving. The juice of half a 
 lemon is an improvement, just before serving, as well as a drop of 
 
 * Macaroni is now selling in London at fivepence per pound, and 
 makes four pounds of food when boiled, as No. 463. 
 
SOUPS. ll 
 
 wine, if handy. If required brown, add three tablespoonfuls of 
 colouring ; and use water or broth for thickening, instead of milk. 
 The water in which the calf’s head is boiled may be kept, and 
 added to the stock. This soup will keep for a long time if boiled 
 occasionally, and a little water added ; it should never be covered, 
 or fermentation will commence; it should be occasionally stirred 
 until cold. Strong stocks are more likely to turn sour than 
 thin ones, more particularly if they have vegetables and flour 
 in them; to prevent which, when this soup is kept in a basin, 
 leave the mouth exposed to the air. 
 
 15. Cow-heel.—Another very cheap and nutritious soup may be 
 made by an ox-foot or cow-heel; having bought them cleaned 
 and partly boiled, stew them till tender, remove the meat from 
 the bone, cut them into nice pieces, and proceed as for mock~ 
 turtle. 
 
 16. White Soup, with Vegetables, &ce.—Having cut and fried 
 the same quantity of vegetables as No.1, add them to the white 
 soup, free from meat as No. 13; simmer and skim off the fat. 
 Two ounces of vermicelli, macaroni, rice, &c., previously boiled, 
 can be used in the same way. 
 
 17. Purée, or Thick Vegetable Soups.—Green Pea.—Put 
 a quart of large green peas, when cheap, in the pot or pan, with 
 two ounces of butter or fat, and the same of lean bacon cut 
 small, a middling-sized onion, little mint, two teaspoonfuls of 
 salt, one of sugar, half the same of pepper, a gill of water; set 
 on slow fire, stir how and then, or until no more moisture 
 remains on the bottom of the pan; add two or three tablespoonfuls 
 of flour, stir round quick, and break the peas against the side of 
 the pan with a wooden spoon; moisten with a quart of milk and 
 a quart of water, simmer twenty minutes, or more if old peas, 
 and serve. 
 
 This, by leaving out the bacon, becomes Meagre Soup. Fried 
 bread, in small dice, is a good accompaniment. 
 
 If you have any broth (No. 1), use it instead of the milk and 
 water. 
 
 By passing the peas through a hair sieve, which is done by 
 breaking and pressing them with the back of the spoon, an 
 inviting purée is produced; after which warm up, and serve. 
 
 18. Pumpkin Soup is a very favourite dish in many parts 0 | 
 
12 SOUPS. 
 
 France, especially with the juveniles; and when in season, there 
 is not a school, college, hospital, convent, or monastery, where 
 it is not made; a proof that it must be very wholesome. In 
 this country, whose climate will not allow its arriving at the 
 same size as on the Continent, the Vegetable Marrow, the 
 American Butter Squash, and the Mammoth Gourd, will 
 replace them. 
 
 Cut about two pounds of the flesh of the pumpkin or gourd 
 into large dice, put it into your pan, with three ounces of salt 
 butter or fat; add two teaspoonfuls of salt, the same of sugar, a 
 little pepper, and half a pint of water; set on the fire, and stew 
 gently for twenty minutes. When in pulp, add two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, stir round, and moisten with three pints of 
 either milk, skim-milk, or water, boil ten minutes longer, and, 
 serve with fried or toasted bread, cut in dice. 
 
 19, Meagre Soups.—This soup is on the list of meagre soups, 
 a word used by the Catholics for dishes partaken of m Lent, 
 but which,is not understood in England; the word having the 
 meaning, want of strength. But this soup, and many others in 
 the same category, are well worthy the attention of the middle 
 classes of this country, it being only meagre in name, and not 
 in fact, as it possesses a large quantity of farinaceous matter ; 
 bread being also served with it. 
 
 20. Vegetable Marrow.—Peel, and take out the inside, if 
 seeded, cut in slices about two pounds; put in saucepan on the 
 fire, with a quarter of a pound of butter or fat; add two tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, and one quarter of the same of 
 pepper, a gill of water, and one onion sliced; stew gently until 
 in pulp, then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and proceed as for 
 pumpkin soup. 
 
 21. Turnip Soup.— Use two and a half pounds of good 
 turnips, and proceed as above. 
 
 22. Red Carrot Soup.—Scrape gently, and cut in very thin 
 slices two pounds of carrots; put them in the saucepan or pot with 
 two onions sliced, two ounces of ham cut small, two cloves, a 
 little thyme, salt, pepper, sugar, as above, half a pint of water, 
 simmer gently forty minutes, then add three tablespoonfuls of 
 flour, and two quarts of broth (No. 1), or use milk, or even water. 
 
Te ihe Aa CT ENED eee SPREE Te) Sees Naty Bes 
 
 SOUPS, 2 | 17 
 
 It is much better passed through a hair sieve, after which warm 
 up again and serve. 
 
 White Carrot.—Proceed as for the red. 
 
 The Swede, Parsnip, Red and White Beet.—Proceed as for 
 carrot. . 
 
 23. New Spring and Autumn Soup.—A most refreshing and 
 exquisite soup. At the end of the London season, when the 
 markets are full of everything, and few to partake of them, this 
 soup can be made as a bonne bouche :— 
 
 Wash, dry, and cut up four cabbage lettuces, and one coss 
 ditto, a handful of sorrel, a little tarragon and chervil, and two 
 or three small cucumbers peeled and sliced; put into a saucepan 
 a quarter of a pound of butter, then set in the vegetables; put 
 on a slow fire, and stir often, until there is no liquid remaining ; 
 add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, and moisten with two 
 quarts of broth (No. 1) or water, and set it to boil; when boil- 
 ing, add a pint of green peas, two teaspoonfuls of powdered 
 sugar, a little pepper and salt; when the peas are tender, serve. 
 If you use water, merease the quantity of seasoning. 
 
 New Cock-a-Leekie. 
 
 Ma chére Amie,—With all due respect to Scotch cookery, I will 
 always give the preference, in the way of soup, to their cock-a-leekie, 
 even before their inimitable hodge-podge. Having a very old friend, 
 from the neighbourhood of Dundee, who used to praise my cock-a- 
 leekie, when on a visit to St. John’s Wood, I thought I would give 
 him the same treat here, and on looking over my frugal store and 
 garden of Camellia Cottage, I found I had all that was required, 
 barring the bird; but, with a little perseverance and ingenuity, I 
 succeeded in producing a very nice soup, although it wanted the 
 principal ingredient, so that it deceived not only my husband, but 
 my friend from the other side of the Tweed. Here is the receipt: 
 
 24.—I bought two pounds of veal cutlet, and cut it into 
 pieces, like the flesh from the breast of a fowl, and put them in 
 the pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean 
 bacon, three cloves, two good onions sliced, two teaspoonfuls of 
 salt, one of sugar, half a one of pepper, a gill of water; set it 
 on the fire, turn it over until forming a white glaze at the 
 bottom, add to it five pints of water, simmer half an hour, pass 
 through a sieve, save the best pieces of the veal. In the mean- 
 
14 fat. SOUPS, 
 
 time blanch two ‘pounds of leeks, free from the top green part, 
 for ten minutes, in a gallon of water, and drain them ; then boil 
 the stock and half the leeks together, till almost in a pulp; then 
 add the other half of the leeks and the meat, also eighteen good - 
 fresh French plums; simmer half an hour, and serve. 
 
 I must observe that my friend praised it very much for having 
 put in the flesh of the fowl only, as he thought, and not the 
 whole carcase, which is the way they serve it in Scotland; an 
 exceedingly inconvenient way, as everybody expects a piece of 
 the fowl, and you often tear it to pieces in serving. 
 
 25. Simplified Hodge-Podge.—Cut two pounds of fresh 
 scrag of mutton into small pieces, which put into a stewpan, 
 with three quarts of cold water, and a tablespoonful of salt, one 
 ditto of sugar, half a ditto of pepper; set it on the fire; when 
 boiling, place it at the side to simmer for one hour; keep it 
 skimmed; well wash a large carrot, two turnips, two onions, 
 and six small cabbage lettuces; cut them up, and place in the 
 pot, and simmer till done. A pint of green peas, if im season, 
 may be added.. A carrot grated is an improvement. If in 
 winter, use cabbage instead of lettuce. Serve the meat with it. 
 
 . 26. Various Meat Soups.—Giblet.—These should be procured 
 ready cleaned, but if not, they must be cleaned as No. 459; when 
 done, cut them into about twelve pieces, wash them well, and 
 dry in a cloth; put into a pan a quarter of a pound of butter or 
 dripping, set it on the fire, melt it, then add four ounces of flour, 
 stir continually until it begins to brown, add two ounces of lean 
 bacon, and two onions or leeks sliced, fry a few minutes longer, 
 put in the giblets, fry gently for ten minutes, stirring now and 
 then, pour over two quarts of water, stir till boiling, and set it 
 to simmer ; then add two teaspoontuls of salt, half one of pepper 
 one of sugar, three cloves, a little thyme, bay leaf, and about a 
 quarter of a pound of celery well washed and eut up small; 
 continue simmering until the giblets are tender, remove the fat, 
 and serve. A wineglass of sherry and a little cayenne may 
 be added. A pound of beef or veal is, of course, a great im- 
 provement. This receipt is for the giblets of a middle-sized 
 turkey. 
 
PRE, s . f ai ro Sey * 
 
 SOUPS, ; 15 
 
 27. Hare Soup. 
 
 My DEAR ELoIse,—Since the alteration in our circumstances I have 
 learnt to practise the most rigid economy, which you will remark in 
 this receipt. When I buy a hare, as I sometimes do, for two shil- 
 lings, skinning it myself, and selling the skin for fourpence, I save 
 all the blood in a pie-dish, take out the heart and liver, removing the 
 gall; I then cut the hare into two, across the back, close to the last 
 ribs, and cut this part into pieces, using it for soup, and the hindpart 
 I keep for roasting the following day. 
 
 28. Hare Soup.—I then proceed as for giblet soup, only 
 using half a pound of either veal, beef, or mutton, cut into dice, 
 and put in the pot with the hare. Fifteen minutes before 
 serving, I mix the blood with the heart and liver, which I have 
 chopped fine, and boil it up ten minutes; skim and serve. The 
 addition of a little brown sugar and a glass of port wine is an 
 improvement: if no wine, a little stout or porter will improve it. 
 It ought to be of a dark brown colour, for which use colouring. 
 
 29. Ox Tail—Cut them at the joints, and. proceed as for 
 giblets, adding one pint more water for two small tails, and 
 simmer half an hour longer, or till done. ‘This should be of a 
 brown colour. Vegetables cut into dice may be added. Serve 
 when tender: some will take double the time cooking, according 
 to size. 
 
 30. Ox Cheek.—Boil half a large cheek for twenty minutes 
 in two quarts of water, to set it; take it out, cut it mto thin 
 slices, or small pieces, and then proceed exactly as for giblets. 
 Serve when tender. 
 
 31. Simplified Mulligatawny, quickly done. Lesson 1.— 
 Cut in small dice two pounds of leg of veal, no bone, then 
 put in the pan with two ounces of salt butter, two teaspoonfuls 
 of salt, a quarter that of pepper, a quarter of a pound of onions 
 sliced, and a wine-glass of water. Put it in the pan and place 
 on the fire, stir it about until nearly dry ; two ounces of bacon or 
 ham is an improvement; then add a good teaspoonful and a half 
 of curry powder, four of flour, and one of brown sugar; moisten 
 with five pints of water, simmer for an hour or a little longer, 
 skim, and serve. Half a pound of rice, as No. 463, may be served 
 either with it or separate. 
 
i yan ne | SOUPS. 
 
 Lesson 2.—To the above may be added a small apple, cut in 
 thin slices, also any other meat may be used, instead of veal, 
 and a little bunch of aromatic herbs; the meat to remain in the 
 soup. 
 
 32. New Mutton Broth.—Cut two pounds of the scrag, or 
 any other lean part of mutton, in ten or twelve pieces, put in a 
 pan with two ounces of fat, two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of 
 pepper, a gill of water, two middle-sized onions, a good teacupful 
 of pearl barley. Set it on the fire, stir round until it is reduced, 
 moisten with five pints of water, boil, and skim, simmer two 
 hours; and serve. 
 
 33. Potato Soup.—Proceed as above, omit the barley, add 
 two pounds of potatoes, peeled and cut in slices, put them in 
 when the broth is boiling; simmer till in pulp, and serve. A 
 few sprigs of parsley, or the flowers of four marigolds, is an 
 
 improvement, and, at the same time, an agreeable change. 
 
 34. Ox Tail Soup in Baking Pan.—Divide two ox tails, 
 wash them well in cold water, then put them in the pan, with 
 three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four cloves, a little 
 thyme, if handy, two good onions; add three quarts of water, 
 two tablespoonfuls of colouring; put on the cover, place it in a 
 moderate oven for three hours to simmer, take off the fat, which 
 save for use, and serve. Half a pound of any vegetable, mixed 
 or not, cut in dice, can be added with advantage. 
 
 85. Ox Check in Baking Pan.—Get half a one ready boned, 
 if not to be had, get the half head with the bone, in which case 
 they should be broken small and put in the broth; but it gives 
 
 ymore trouble than it is worth. The solid meat at threepence 
 per pound is more economical, Wash it well, cut off the white 
 part, put the cheek in the pan, and proceed exactly as above; 
 only give it three or four hours to bake. A little mixed spice 
 improves the flavour. ‘Take the fat off, remove the meat, cut it 
 into small pieces, put it into the tureen, and pour the broth over. 
 
 36. Cheap Pea Soup.—Put into the iron pot two ounces of 
 dripping, one quarter of a pound of bacon, cut into dice, two 
 good onions sliced; fry them gently until brownish, then add 
 one large or two small turnips, the same of carrots, one leek, 
 and one head of celery, all cut thin and slanting (if all these 
 
ie aa aa, (tS Be and It ln at + “ys et a pe EF Pol aNS Mes 2 aw Tine! 
 
 FISH ON GRIDIRON. 17 
 
 cannot be obtained, use any of them, but about the same amount) ; 
 fry for ten minutes more, and then add seven quarts of 
 - water; boil up, and add one pound and a half of split peas; 
 simmer for two or three hours, until reduced to a pulp, which 
 depends on the quality of the pea, then add two tablespoonfuls 
 of salt, one of sugar, one of dried mint; mix half a pound of 
 flour smooth in a pint of water, stir it well; pour in the soup, 
 boil thirty minutes, and serve. 
 
 37. The above Meagre.— Precisely as above, only oil or 
 butter used instead of bacon or dripping: skim-milk could 
 with advantage be used, in which case add three ounces of salt. 
 Although this is entirely deprived of animal substances, yet the 
 farinaceous ingredients, with the addition of bread, will act 
 generously on the digestive organs, satisfying the heartiest eater. 
 
 GRIDIRON. 
 
 Wirt this primitive utensil a great deal may be done in the way of 
 cooking, but it requires cate, or otherwise great loss of food and 
 money will be sustained ; a few minutes’ constant attention, when the 
 article is on the gridiron, will save at least twenty per cent., and the 
 palate will feel more gratified. 
 
 I use two kinds of gridirons, each costing very little; one is of cast 
 iron, to go on the fire, and the other is of iron wire, made double, to 
 hang from the bar of the grate before the fire, made so as not to too 
 much press the object cooked within it. The principal care in this, 
 as in all kitchen utensils, is never to put them away dirty; always 
 wiping the gridiron after it has been used, and again before you use 
 it, and a place kept where it should be hung. 
 
 WHAT I CAN COOK WITH MY GRIDIRON. 
 
 Firstly, Fish, nearly all sorts, both dried and fresh, either whole or 
 im pieces. I shall not begin with the king of the ocean, but with 
 one of the most humble of its inhabitants, and which daily gratifies 
 _ the palates of millions; it is— 
 The Plain Red Herring.—Though we have agreed to make use of 
 every kind of eatable food, it is still important to point out the best 
 i) 
 
‘Co Teer TY 
 18 FISH ON GRIDIRON. 
 
 quality first, for I must tell you, that the quality of herrings varies 
 as much, if not more, than any other kind of food ; the proper way of 
 curing them being as important to know as the quality of the flesh 
 itself, This unassuming kind of fish, which we may venture to call the 
 poor man’s friend, ought to be chosen plump, though not too full of 
 roe, as when they have large roes they are sure to be oily, and cannot 
 have taken the salt properly ; they feel softish to the touch, eat stringy, 
 and sometimes decay, and emit a bad smell while cooking; these 
 are unwholesome: but if hard and firm, the flesh reddish, the roe well 
 set, and smell sweet, they are good. The only drawback is that they 
 might be too salt, which cannot be avoided, only by cutting the back 
 up, and soaking them in lukewarm water for a few hours, and when 
 taken out well dried on a cloth, previous to their being cooked. But 
 the way to ascertain if a herring is too salt, is to take the fish in the 
 left hand, and pull out a few of the fins from the back, and taste ; 
 you may thus find out the quality and flavour. ‘This plan is adopted 
 by large dealers. 
 
 38. Wipe your herring; dry it well in a cloth: you may 
 slightly split the back, or make a few incisions crossways; rub 
 it with flour, or dress it plainly, by placing the herring on the 
 gridiron about six inches over a clear fire, or before it; turn 
 them often, and in five minutes they may be done, according to 
 size. 
 
 Or, when it is done, mix a piece of butter with a little mustard 
 together, and place inside of it, or rub it over. By opening the 
 back, it will do much quicker; but to keep the essence in it, it 
 should be done whole. 
 
 Or, butter and chopped parsley, and a little vinegar or lemon 
 juice. 
 
 Or, butter and chopped fennel and onions, very fine. 
 
 Or, cut off the head, open it up the back with a knife, and 
 remove the back bone of the herring; put in about one ounce 
 of butter and chopped parsley, with a slight tint of onion. 
 Fold two herrings together in some paper, so that the fat does 
 not escape; broil gently for nearly twenty minutes, and serve. 
 The butter is to be inclosed between the two herrings. 
 
 The same plan with a bloater and a fresh herring dressed 
 together is first-rate. 
 
 39. Fresh Herrings.—These should be cleaned and scaled, 
 the head removed, opened on the back, and the gut taken out. 
 Make three slight incisions on each side, throw some pepper and 
 
FISH ON GRIDIRON. 19. 
 
 salt over it, broil for ‘o minutes, and serve plain, or with bithor 
 _ plain melted butter or fish sauce. 
 
 Or, a little mixed pickle chopped fine, with melted butter, 
 also makes a good sauce for herrings. 
 
 40. Haddock.—A fine Finnan haddock should be rubbed with 
 butter, and plain broiled before the fire for ten minutes, or more 
 if rather large, keeping it of a yellowish colour, and turning it 
 oceasionally. If very salt, steep it in water for one hour; beat 
 the thick side down, and broil gently. 
 
 Another Way.—Cut a middling-sized haddock in six pieces, 
 which wash in cold water, take them out, and place them either 
 in a bason or pan, then pour over about a quart. of boiling water, 
 covering your bason or pan over, so that no steam can escape; 
 after your haddock has steamed ten minutes, take it out, place 
 on a dish, rub over with butter, sprinkle a little pepper over, 
 and serve. 
 
 Sprats and pickled herrings can also be done this way, as 
 likewise smoked salmon; you may vary the flavour of this 
 simple dish, by adding either a little chives, thyme, winter 
 savory, bayleaf, parsley, eschalots, or onions. 
 
 Al. Whitings, Fresh, should be merely cleaned, cut on each 
 side, rubbed over with salt, pepper, and flour, and broiled for 
 seven to ten minutes. Serve with melted butter, or without, 
 adding a little vinegar or lemon in the sauce. 
 
 42. Mackerel.—Cut off the point of the head, open it at the 
 back, keep it open flat. Pepper and salt, and fennel, if handy; 
 place it between the fish, broil gently for ten minutes, and serve 
 with either melted butter, or parsley and butter, or black butter 
 sauce. (See No. 422.) 
 
 43.—Cut as above, open it on the back, chop up a small piece 
 of fat bacon, with some parsley, one eschalot, or a small onion; 
 add a teaspoonful of vinegar; fill the inside with this stuffing. 
 Close it again; tie it round with a string, broil very gently for 
 twelve to fifteen minutes: i depends on the fire and size. 
 Serve plain. 
 
 44.—Prepare it as above, and put it “thts a pie dish, with 
 vinegar, salt, pepper, and slices of onion, for an hour, and broil 
 
 as before. 
 c2 mn 
 
20 FISH ON GRIDIRON, 
 
 45.—Get a tin baking dish, and put into it some chives 
 chopped fine, some parsley, salt, pepper, a little vinegar, and 
 about one ounce of butter or lard: put the mackerel, cut open 
 at the back, and divided in six pieces; place it on the gridiron, 
 turn the pieces, and in about twenty minutes they are done. 
 Serve it on the tin dish. Onions may be used. 
 
 46.—It may be put into paper, like the herring, No. 38, and 
 served without any sauce. 
 
 Small fresh-water fish, such as tench, pike, perch, barbel, &c., 
 may be done like mackerel. 
 
 47. Small Soles and Ftvadepae are very good when nicely 
 broiled in the double gridiron before a clear fire; the time 
 depends on the size and the state of the fire: they should be 
 rubbed with salt, pepper, and flour. 
 
 48. Salmon, Salted, should be cut in small slices, of about 
 one quarter of a pound each, slantways, rubbed with either butter 
 or oil, and broiled gently. Serve plain, or can be broiled, wrapped 
 up-in oil paper. 
 
 49, Hels, Dried.—Steep them in water and vinegar for twelve 
 hours, rub them with butter, cut them into pieces four inches 
 long; broil gently, and serve.. These are rather scarce, but very 
 good thus. 
 
 50. Hels, Fresh.—Skin and cut them into lengths of four to 
 five inches; broil gently for seven to ten minutes; have some 
 parsley chopped fine, which mix with some butter, and put a 
 little in each piece, and serve very hot. They may also be egged 
 and bread-crummed (see Fried Eels), or with plain sauce. 
 
 51. Ling, Fresh.—Take about a pound of ling, cut it into 
 slices of about three-quarters of an inch thick, rub it with pepper 
 and salt, and put it on the gridiron over a clear fire; in about 
 ten minutes it will be done. Serve it plain, or with a little 
 melted butter and chopped parsley, lemon or vinegar, or with 
 a little piece of the liver chopped up and boiled in the sauce. 
 
 Turbot, brill, hake, halibut, plaice, or cod, may be cooked 
 the same way, either over or before the fire. | 
 
FISH BOILED IN POT, PAN, OR STEW-PAN, 21 
 
 2 
 
 HOW TO BOIL ALL KINDS OF FISH, EITHER WHOLE 
 OR IN SLICES. 
 
 GENERAL RECEIPTS, 
 
 In ‘all processes of cooking that which appears the simplest is 
 generally the most neglected, or at best but carelessly done. Many 
 persons, unacquainted with the subject, would imagine that the boiling 
 of fish is so simple, that it merely requires to be put on the fire ina 
 saucepan full of water, and let simmer or boil until it has lost its 
 transparency, to be fit to eat. ‘To those who are careless and extra- 
 yagant, this process may answer very well; they know no better, and 
 do not care to improve; but to the careful housewife, who wishes to 
 make every penny go as far as possible, by retaining in every article 
 of food she cooks the flavour and succulence it possesses (which is, in 
 fact, the basis of economical and perfect cookery, no matter how 
 simple it may be), the following simple receipt, if carefully followed, 
 will greatly assist:— 
 
 First of all, let us remember that all large fish, with the skin 
 whole, must be placed on the fire in cold water; if crimped, or cut in 
 slices or pieces, in boiling water; if whole, it must not be covered 
 with more than two or three inches of water, or the skin will crack, 
 and not only spoil the appearance of the fish, but will diminish the 
 gelatine and gluten it contains, and instead of eating firm and full of 
 flavour, it will be soft and woolly, especially if overboiled. 
 
 For all kinds of fish, to every quart of water put two teaspoonfuls 
 of salt; and if the fish be whole, as soon as it begins to boil, remove 
 the cover on one side, and let simmer gently till quite done, calcu- 
 lating the time according to the size and quality, which vary so 
 much, that it would be quite impossible to say, “'Take a cod, turbot, 
 or salmon, or any other fish weighing so many pounds, and boil so 
 long ;” for according to its quality, the process of cooking will act 
 upon it, and therefore in all the following receipts we must make 
 use of the word about with regard to time, but by all means do it 
 rather over than under. If large fish, I generally try it by gently 
 pushing a wooden skewer through the thickest part; if it goes 
 in easily, it is done. 
 
 How to ascertain if Fish, whether boiled, stewed, or fried, is done. 
 —lIf the bone sticks firm to the flesh, or the flesh to the bone, it is 
 not done; by the same rule, if quite loose, and the flesh of the fish 
 drops off the bone, it is overdone, and you lose some of its qualities, 
 
 For fish in slices try the bone with your knife; if the flesh comes 
 from it, it is done; or by placing the point of a knife between the 
 
22 FISH BOILED IN POT, PAN, OR STEW-PAN. 
 
 flesh and the bone, and on raising it, if done, the knife will part it 
 easily. 
 
 To boil fish whole, such as turbot, plaice, large soles, salmon, cod, 
 trout, pike, or any such like fish, it is requisite to haye a drainer at 
 the bottom of the kettle, or you will be sure to break your fish to 
 pieces; and as the cottage of a working man is seldom furnished 
 with cooking utensils of this nature, let him cut his large fish in 
 pieces, or boil only small ones; but as,no doubt, the middle classes 
 of society will buy largely of this our last work, I think I am in duty 
 bound, Eloise, to give the following receipt, which, without the fore- 
 going explanation, might seem to you out of place. 
 
 52. To boil Brill_—Place your fish im the pan, letting it lay 
 on the strainer; rub it over with six teaspoonfuls of salt—it 
 will make it firmer, then add six pints of cold water, or enough 
 to cover the fish; put your pan on the fire, and when it com- 
 mences to boil, put the lid slightly on one side, and let simmer 
 till done. A brill of about five or six pounds will be done in 
 half an hour after boiling. When sufficiently cooked, lay hold 
 of both ends of the drainer, lift your fish out, and let it lay on 
 the top of the kettle for two or three minutes, then slip it on 
 your dish on a napkin, and garnish round with parsley, if any. 
 If your fish weighs from three to four pounds, it will take from 
 twenty-five to thirty minutes dog on a moderate fire. Anchovy, 
 shrimp, lobster, or lemon sauce, may be used. 
 
 53. Turbot.— Make two incisions with a knife across the 
 back—it prevents the white skin on the top cracking; rub it 
 with the juice of a lemon and salt previous to putting the 
 water over; let it ley about three inches under water. A turbot 
 of seven or eight pounds will take about three quarters of an 
 hour doing, after the water commences boiling; one of fifteen 
 pounds, one hour and thirty minutes. Serve with either of the 
 above sauces, or cream sauce No. 424, 
 
 54. Salmon.—A salmon weighing ten pounds will take one 
 hour gently simmering when the water commences boiling. 
 Head and shoulders. of six pounds, forty minutes; cod fish of 
 the same weight as the salmon, fifteen mimutes less; cod’s head 
 and shoulders, ten minutes less; conger eels, hake, ling, same 
 time as cod. The liver and roe of any of the above-named fish 
 are very good when boiled and served with them. 
 
 -Gurnet, pike, barbel, and carp are boiled the same way. If 
 
fe 2? hg mes 
 
 FISH BOILED IN POT, PAN, OR STEW-PAN. 23 
 
 either the turbot, salmon, or cod is crimped, it will take less 
 time to boil, and should be put in boiling water, timing it in 
 _ proportion to the other fish that has been put in cold water. 
 
 55. How to boil Sticed Fish—To every pint of water put a 
 teaspoonful of salt; when boiling, add your fish, of whatever 
 kind it may be, calculating that a pound of any sort of fish will 
 take from fifteen to twenty minutes; but ascertain if the bone 
 separates easily from the flesh, as described in the preceding direc< 
 - tions. Halibut and sturgeon will take longer than any other fish, 
 plaice less than any. Any fish cut in slices will always eat firmer 
 and better if rubbed, previous to boiling, with the quantity of salt 
 you otherwise put in the water; therefore boil the water plain, 
 adding the fish and salt at the same time. Mackerel will take 
 from fifteen to twenty minutes; trout and haddocks of the size 
 of a mackerel, a little longer; herrings, from twelve to fifteen 
 minutes ; skate, a trifling time longer; adding a drop of vinegar 
 in the water to any of the above fish is an improvement. 
 
 56. New way of boiling Fish.—The addition of a few herbs 
 and vegetables in the water gives a very nice flavour to the fish. 
 Add, according to taste, a little sliced onions, thyme, bayleaf, 
 winter savory, carrots, celery, clove, mace, using whichever of 
 these ingredients you can procure; it greatly improves skate, 
 fresh haddocks, gurnet, &c. Fresh-water fish, which have no 
 particular flavour, are preferable done thus, with the addition 
 of a little vinegar. Choose whatever sauces you please for 
 any of the above fish, from the series at No. 411. 
 
 57. Salt Fish, Cod, Ling, and Cod-Sounds.— Soak two 
 pounds of salt fish for six hours, if not previously soaked, or 
 according to the cure; put them in boiling water, in which some 
 parsnips have been previously boiled. ‘Twenty minutes, if the 
 fish is thick, will be sufficient; and serve with egg-sauce 
 No. 411. Proceed the same with ‘cod-sounds, 
 
 Fresh-water Fish.—These are not much esteemed amongst 
 the many, although some are excellent eating, and much in use 
 on the continent. 
 
 58. Tench and perch must be well scaled and cleaned, and put 
 into the pan with a pint of water and a teaspoonful of salt, one 
 onion, sliced, three sprigs of thyme, bay-leaf, pepper, parsley, 
 
94 FISH IN TIN PAN IN OVEN. 
 
 celery, all in proportion; a wine-glass of vinegar. If they weigh 
 one pound boil for half an hour, according to size. Serve with 
 any fish-sauce. 
 
 59. Hels may be done as above, with a little scraped horse- 
 radish, and served with parsley and butter. Pike and carp may 
 be boiled in the same way. If no herbs or vegetables, boil in 
 plain salt and water; but the above isa great improvement. 
 
 Fish in Oven, in Tin Dish.—A long square tin dish, like 
 those for baking, may be used for this excellent mode of cooking 
 fish, by which all the flavour and succulence of it is preserved. 
 They may be had of all sizes, and at a very trifling expense. 
 
 60. Lesson 1.—Scale and clean a sole, dry it well, chop up half 
 an ounce of onions rather small, put in the dish one ounce of either 
 butter, dripping, or oil, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley and 
 onions at the bottom; lay the sole over, season with pepper and 
 salt; mix the remainder of the chopped onions and parsley with 
 some bread crumbs, and cover the sole with them, adding three 
 or four pieces of butter or fat over, and a wineglassful of either 
 wine, ale, or broth, or even water underneath; put the dish in 
 the oven or before the fire until done: a large sole will take about 
 an hour. In case the oven is not hot enough to brown the top, 
 put the shovel in the fire until it is red-hot, and hold over it. 
 Serve in the tin. The oven is far better than the front of a 
 fire. 
 
 _ Plaice may be done the same way, or cut in slices, only it 
 takes longer doing. 
 
 61. Whiting are done the same way, but require a sharp oven, 
 or they will turn watery. Weaver may be done in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Conger Eels.—Cut four slices, half an inch thick, dry well, 
 dip each piece into flour, and proceed precisely as for soles. A 
 little grated horseradish and a little spice will vary the flavour. 
 
 62. Lesson 2.—Codfish, Halibut, Ling, Hake, Sturgeon, and 
 Haddock may be done in the same way; and a little stuffing, No. 
 466, may be used for every one of them, especially cod-liver 
 stuffing. | 3 
 
 63. Lesson 3.—The remains of boiled fish may always be 
 done in this way. <A few spoonfuls of melted butter added over 
 
FISH IN TIN PAN IN OVEN. 95 
 
 : any of the above fish, before the bread crumbs, makes a change ; 
 it eats more delicate, and gives very little more trouble. | 
 
 64. Another Way.—Place any of the above fish in the dish, 
 omitting the onions, if not liked; add a few herbs or chopped 
 mushrooms instead ; and make the following— 
 
 65. Sauce—Put in a pan a quarter of a pound of flour, 
 moisten with a pint and a half of milk or skim-milk, add three 
 parts of a teaspoonful of salt, the same of pepper, mix all smooth, 
 add a little mixed spice, or two cloves, grated nutmeg, one onion 
 eut in four, set on the fire, stir continually, and boil twenty 
 minutes ; it must be rather thick ; take out the onions and cloves, 
 add to the sauce four ounces of butter, mix it well, pour over the 
 fish, and bake as above: a little parsley, chopped, and thrown 
 over before sending to table, improves the appearance, and a 
 little grated cheese thrown over previous to placing in the oven, 
 gives a nice yellow look, and this will be much liked. The 
 sauce can be made and kept for some days without spoiling. 
 This sauce is nice with every kind of white fish. Bread-crumb 
 may be put over the sauce before cooking. The remains of 
 previously cooked fish may be dressed in this way. 
 
 66. Halibut, Conger, Hake, and Ling (receipt for four 
 pounds of fish).—Season either of the above rather strong with 
 two teaspoonfuls of salt, half the same of pepper, the same of 
 ground ginger, and two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions. Put 
 two ounces of fat in a deep tin pan, lay the fish on it, mix two 
 ounces of flour with a pint of milk ; when smooth pour over the 
 fish, bake for an hour, and serve. 
 
 67. Plaice and large Gurnets—The flesh cut from the bone 
 may be done as above. They all require to be well done. Any 
 of the above dishes may be surrounded by a border of either 
 mashed potatoes or boiled rice. 
 
 68. In Oven —Small Fish—Put in a deep pan four tea- 
 spoonfuls of onions chopped, half a pint of melted butter, a gill 
 of vinegar; lay over six pounds of any common fish, season over 
 with two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper; place it in the 
 oven for twenty minutes, then turn it, baste it with the sauce 
 now and then; dish it up, and pour sauce over, or serve in the 
 pan; if the sauce should be too thin, boil on the fire till it gets 
 of a thickish substance. 
 
26 FISH IN FRYING-PAN. 
 
 69. Mackerel in Pie Dish.—Open two or three mackerel on 
 the back, cut off the tail and head, rub the inside and outside 
 with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley; mix in a bason halfa 
 pint of melted butter, No. 410, add to it a teaspoonful of chopped. 
 fennel and parsley, and a tablespoonful of vinegar; put the fish - 
 in the dish, pour the sauce over, and well bread-crumb it; put 
 it in the oven for half an hour or more, andserve. The roe may 
 be left in the fish, or chopped up and mixed with the sauce. 
 
 Balls of cod-liver may be added. 
 
 70. Pickled Mackerel, Plain Way.—Cut two onions in thin 
 slices, mix with salt and pepper and a little mixed spice or 
 peppercorn; then have four mackerel ready, with the gills and 
 gut removed, but not cut; put a little of the onions inside, and 
 rub the outside with them; and then rub them with flour, put 
 them in the dish, put in the remainder of the onions, add half a 
 pint of vinegar and a gill of water; bake in a slow oven for one 
 hour; use cold. They will keep a long time. 
 
 71. Fresh Herrings, Sprats, and Smelts may all be done the 
 same way, only they require less time to bake. Any other kind of 
 fish, if in small pieces, may be done this way, and is excellent in 
 summer with salad. The flavour or the pickling may be im- 
 proved by adding three cloves, two blades of mace, some peppers 
 corns, a little garlic, and some sweet-herbs, according to taste. 
 
 FRIED FISH. 
 
 The great art in frying fish is, to have it free from grease, and 
 in that state it is one of the most delicate descriptions of food that 
 can be given to the invalid, and at the same time the most nourish- 
 ing. The sudden immersion in the fat solidifies the albumen in the 
 flesh of the fish, and renders it easy of digestion; the coating of bread- 
 crumbs prevents the fat penetrating into the fish, and when eaten by 
 the invalid, the skin should be removed, and only the white flesh 
 partaken of, 
 
 The great point is to have plenty of fat in the pan, for it is not 
 wasted, far from it. Ifit is kept at a proper degree of heat, in the 
 same pan a sole may be fried, and at the same time an apple iritter ; 
 neither will taste of the other, proving that the high degree of heat 
 in the fat prevents the flavour of the object immersed in it escaping. 
 
Le ee ae ee OR eT ee : 
 eer cn re ET 
 ate : 
 
 FISH IN FRYING-PAN. oF 
 
 72. Fried Sole—Put a pound or two of fat into a deep 
 frying-pan ; whilst it is getting hot, take a sole, of course cleaned, 
 cut off the fins and tail, wipe it with a cloth, egg it, and cover 
 with bread-crumbs all over, shake off the loose crumbs, and 
 press it, and lay the sole in the fat, the white part, or belly, 
 downwards; the fat must be at a proper heat, which is ascer- 
 tained by throwing a pinch of crumb into it; if it hisses, it is ready; 
 if it burns, it is over-done; if of a nice colour it will do. Turn 
 it once while doing. A middle-sized sole will take ten minutes. 
 Take it out, place it on a cloth; if any fat is on it, it will come 
 off. Dish it on a napkin, on which it hardly ought to show 
 a spot of grease. This receipt is applicable to all kinds of fish; 
 but large round fish should not be fried whole, only the fillets, or 
 thin slices. Whitings may be fried whole, like sole, and will 
 take about ten minutes; flounders, about five or six minutes; 
 smelts, gudgeons, four or fiveminutes. The last should be fried 
 as few as possible at a time, and served crisp. - 
 
 73. Large soles, plaice, cod, halibut, conger eels, ling, hake, 
 weaver, should all be fried in fillets, or thin slices; the sole should 
 be cut down the back bone; thenrun the knife under the flesh, 
 close to the bone, and cut it off; thus each sole will make four 
 fillets; or they may be cut across in pieces of three inches, with 
 the bone in. 
 
 74. Plaice doin the same way, cut in pieces one inch wide. 
 Cod should be filleted lengthways, or in slices. Hake, haddock, 
 and gurnet, the same; halibut, ling, and conger eel, in very thin 
 slices, that is, not more than half an inch thick. Salt should be 
 sprinkled over them half an hour previous. All these should 
 be egged and bread-crumbed, as described in sole. All fish 
 cooked in this way are excellent cold, as a salad, in summer. 
 Slices should be broken, or cut, for about a pound of fish, and 
 put into a bowl, with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, four’ of 
 oil, half do. of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter 
 do. of pepper. Toss it up well, that it may mix; it is very 
 cooling, and makes alight supper. A little fresh salad, as lettuce, 
 endive, &c., makes it still more so. Slices of cooked potatoes, 
 lentils, and haricots, may be introduced, 
 
aoe Se 
 28 | FISH IN FRYING-PAN, 
 
 75. Fried Fish, Jewish Fashion. 
 
 This is another excellent way of frying fish, which is constantly in 
 use by the children of Israel, and I cannot recommend it too highly ; 
 so much so, that various kinds of fish which many people despise, are 
 excellent cooked by this process; in eating them many persons are 
 deceived, and would suppose them to be the most expensive of fish. The 
 process is at once simple, effective, and economical; not that I would 
 recommend it for invalids, as the process imbibes some of the fat, 
 which, however palatable, would not do for the dyspeptic or in- 
 valid. 
 
 76. Proceed thus :—Cut one or two pounds of halibut in one 
 piece, lay it in a dish, cover the top with a little salt, put some 
 water in the dish, but not to cover the fish; let it remain thus 
 for one hour. The water being below, causes the salt to pene- 
 trate into the fish. Take it out and dry it; cut out the bone, 
 and the fins off; it is then in two pieces. Lay the pieces on 
 the side, and divide them into slices half an inch thick; put 
 into a frying pan, with a quarter of a pound of fat, lard, or 
 dripping (the Jews use oil); then put two ounces of flour into a 
 soup-plate, or basin, which mix with water, to form a smooth 
 batter, not too thick. Dip the fish in it, that the pieces are 
 well covered ; then have the fat, not too hot, put the pieces in it, 
 and fry till a nice colour, turning them over. When done, take 
 it out with a slice, let it drain, dish up, and serve. Any kind 
 of sauce that is liked may be used with it; but plain, with a 
 little salt and lemon, is excellent. This fish is often only three- 
 pence to fourpence per pound; it containing but little bone 
 renders it very economical. It is excellent cold, and can be 
 eaten with oil, vinegar, and cucumbers, in summer time, and is 
 exceedingly cooling. An egg is an improvement in the batter. 
 
 The same fish as before mentioned as fit for frymg, may be 
 fried in this manner. Tels are excellent done so; the batter 
 absorbs the oil which is in them. 
 
 Flounders may also be done in this way. A little salt should 
 be sprinkled over before serving. 
 
 77. In some Jewish families all this kind of fish is fried in 
 oil, and dipped in batter, as described above. In some families 
 they dip the fish first in flour, and then in egg, and fry in oil. 
 This plan is superior to that fried in fat or dripping, but more 
 expensive, 
 
VARIOUS DISHES IN Tih TRON Pov. 29 
 
 Many of the above-mentioned families have stated days on 
 which they fry, or stew their fish, which will keep good several _ 
 days in summer, and I may almost say, weeks in winter; and 
 being generally eaten cold, it saves them a deal of cooking. ‘Still 
 I must say that there is nothing like a hot dinner. 
 
 THE THREE-LEGGED IRON POT. 
 INTRODUCTION, 
 
 Dearest FRreND,—You are aware that every cottage throughout 
 the land has a peculiarity in cookery and cooking utensils, which 
 nothing can alter. One of them has a great claim on our gratitude, 
 which neither time nor place can erase. War, famine, epidemic, 
 revolutions, which have from time to time shaken the foundation of 
 mighty empires, has not caused a wrinkle to appear on his nobla 
 brow even in this miraculous age of discovery, which has created 
 railways, steam, electricity, photography, and by the last powerful 
 agent we are actually enabled to take the strongest fortifications 
 without bloodshed. 
 
 Not even one of the miracles of the nineteenth century has affected 
 his noble position one jot: he is a posterity in himself, and no throne 
 ever has been, or ever will be, stronger than his. 
 
 In winter, when all nature is desolate, when hoary Frost spreads 
 his white mantle over the myriads of defunct flowers, then this 
 homely king rallies round him his subjects, to entertain, comfort, and 
 feed them, and make them happy, even when nature has almost refused 
 to humanity her powerful service. This mighty monarch, Eloise, is no 
 other than the three-legged iron pot, who has done such good service 
 for so many generations, and will continue to do so if properly treated 
 by his subjects. 
 
 So much for his moral virtues; but let us see mite he has been 
 doing, and if we can make him do anything more, and that in ac- 
 cordance with the enlightenment of the nineteenth century. You 
 will perhaps say, that it is. dangerous to try to make any change in 
 a government so well established. Not at all; my object is not to 
 interfere with his noble position, and deprive him of his rights. On 
 the contrary, I only wish to enrich his kingdom, which I am sure no 
 sensible monarch can object to. 
 
 Now for the immortal Pot-luck. All these receipts are for one 
 fontaining two gallons. 
 
80 VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON POT. 
 
 78. Salt Beef—Put in a piece of six pounds, add four quarts 
 of cold water; boil gently for three hours. One hour before 
 serving, wash clean, and cut the roots away of two cabbages, 
 which cut up in four pieces, and put in the pot with the meat. 
 When done, drain the cabbage, and place round the beef on the 
 dish, and serve. Leave the broth or liquor from the meat on 
 the fire, put in two pounds of split peas, a little pepper and brown 
 sugar; boil slowly till done, and put by, uncovered, for next day, 
 to drink with the cold meat. Ifmore salt and pepper is required, 
 add it: if, on the contrary, it should be too salt, add more water 
 and a pound of potatoes. Or skim-milk may be added, and 
 about one pound of toasted bread, cut into dice, and put in the 
 soup when serving; or half a pound of flour, mixed with a pint 
 of water. Every part of salted beef may be boiled thus, 
 using about four ounces of vegetables to every pound of meat, 
 instead of cabbage. ‘Turnip-tops, brocoli-sprouts, green kale, 
 carrots, turnips, Swedes, parsnips, &c. &c., may be used. Suet 
 dumpling may be served with it. 
 
 The pieces of beef generally salted are the brisket, edge bone, 
 round, flank, skirt. The ribs, when salted, are very fine, and 
 much more economical than when roasted. This receipt if 
 adopted for a farm-house; but two pounds of beef, and the 
 other things in proportion to be used for a small fantily. Rice 
 may be used instead of peas. 
 
 79. Salt Pork.—Put four pounds of salt pork, either leg, 
 Join, head, belly, or feet, into the pot with six quarts of water, 
 and one pound of split peas. In one hour add four greens, cut 
 small, or turnip-tops, leeks, parsnips, &c. &c., placed in a net, 
 and boiled in the pot. When done, take them out, and keep 
 warm. Mix half a pound of flour with one pint of water, and 
 put in the pot, and stir itround. Boil for ten minutes, and serve 
 the meat and soup separate, and vegetables round the meat. 
 Pieces of bacon, knuckles of ham, cooked in the same way, are 
 very nice, only they will take rather longer boiling. A tea- 
 spoonful of pepper may be added. 
 
 You will perceive, my friend, that I have already opened a large 
 field for our old hero, adding in a few lines about twenty new 
 subjects in the shape of receipts to his kingdom. 
 
 80, Veal.—The flesh of the calf being of that light nature, 
 
Behe no LS OU MEER 
 VARIOUS DISHES in THE TRON POT. 31 
 
 _ requires more the process of roasting, or stewing, than of boiling, 
 _ except for the purpose of making broth, for which purpose it is 
 superior to any other kind of meat. The only part which is 
 usually done so, is the knuckle, and if cooked in the following 
 way, is not an expensive dish:—Get a knuckle of veal and a 
 small knuckle of ham, weighing together about six pounds. Or 
 in the absence of the ham, or bacon, two pounds of the belly of 
 pork. Put this in the pot, and fill up with six quarts of water 
 and four spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, two carrots, cut in dice, 
 two onions and two turnips. Boil gently for three hours, take 
 - out the meat and serve with mashed turnips, or potatoes. Plain, 
 or parsley and butter over. The liquor boiled up with a pound 
 of ground rice, mixed in a quart of cold water. Put in and boil 
 for half an hour, and save for the next day’s use. When boiled 
 for next day, add any remains of the veal, cut small, and put 
 in it, with a little milk, if handy. Whole rice, or peas, may be 
 used. Four Swedish turnips may be boiled with the veal, and 
 eaten with it, mashed up with pepper, salt, and butter. Vege- 
 tables may be omitted when scarce. 
 
 81. Mutton.— The leg, neck, breast, head, and feet, are 
 most often boiled; sometimes the shoulder, when not too fat, 
 is boiled, smothered in onions. Whichever joint it is, the 
 pot must be filled with water, to which six teaspoonfuls of 
 salt and one of pepper have been added. Put in the joint and 
 ten peeled turnips. When either joint is done, take it out, and 
 serve the turnips round. Parsley and butter, capers, or chopped 
 gherkins, mixed with melted butter, may be served with boiled 
 mutton. 
 
 Save the liquor for the next day, add to it half a pound of 
 Scotch barley and a pound of any vegetables that may be in 
 season. Boil for one hour, and serve with toasted bread. Or 
 
 Instead of barley, two pounds of potatoes, sliced, and boiled 
 with the vegetables, make a nice soup. For every pound of 
 this joint, let it cook fifteen minutes. 
 
 82. Ham.—A ham of about fourteen pounds will take about 
 four hours, and ought to be boiled in a three-gallon pot. Put 
 in the ham, and fill up with water: skim off the scum as it 
 rises; if wanted to be eaten cold, allow it to get cold in the 
 pot. Ifit is an old ham, it should be soaked for twelve hours | 
 previously. Some carrots, turnips, and other vegetables, may 
 
Sess z 
 
 bo Ge ON PRESERVING HAMS AND BACON, 
 
 be boiled, with also a bunch of sweet herbs, which will 
 improve the flavour of the ham. If the liquor is used for soup, 
 a couple of cow heels may be boiled with it, which may be eaten 
 separately, or cut up in the soup, which should be strained. Or, 
 fry ten onions, sliced, until nearly brown; add to them half a 
 pound of flour, stir well in, then add some of the liquor from the 
 ham, until it is rather thick; put into a tureen, and pour more 
 over it, and serve with slices of bread. Or instead of onions, 
 use cabbage or leeks. 
 
 As many cottagers kill their own pigs, and cure the hams and 
 bacon, and often boil only half the ham at a time, the knuckle . 
 part should be boiled last, and the yellow fat, if any on it, should 
 be cut away. 
 
 IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS ON CURING HAMS AND 
 BACON. 
 
 Tons of ham and bacon are yearly wasted throughout the country 
 for want of proper attention and judgment, in allowing the fat to get 
 rancid. Instead of hanging them up, as is the custom, to a low 
 ceiling, in every cottage or farmer’s kitchen, the consequence of 
 which is, that the continual heat turns the fat and flesh of such a quad- 
 ruped as dry as a mummy, while, by the following simple rules, they 
 would keep equally as long without undergoing this antique Egyptian 
 process. 
 To prove to you the truth of my remarks—about six months ago, 
 I was on a visit to our excellent friend, Wiliam Tucker, Esq., of 
 Coriton Park, near Axminster, Devon, when all the neighbourhood 
 was searched to get a couple of home-cured country hams; however, 
 no such thing was to be found; every one of them bought were dried 
 . to chips. The fat of the first one we operated on, when sawn in 
 two, (for we could not cut it in the ordinary way,) was of a blackish 
 yellow, and the meat of the same colour as rotten wood, only much - 
 harder. Being anxious to see the person who had so effectively 
 “ preserved” this ham, a very natty, clean old woman was brought to 
 me; and on showing her the bone, and asking her for the receipt, 
 she said she did not know how it was done, but her son Thomas did, 
 -and she knew he would be glad to give me the receipt, to which 
 proposition I strongly objected, at the same time writing down the 
 following receipt, which she said her son would doubtless follow. 
 After you have pickled your ham or bacon for either winter or 
 summer use, dry the moisture with a cloth, and hang it in your 
 
WARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK pot.  —S-_ 83 
 
 Adtchen for about three weeks, or until the outside begins to crystal- 
 lize; then remove it to your dairy, or any other dampish place, for a 
 few days; then place it in your-kitchen again, and so on, backwards 
 and forwards, three or four times, till perfectly dry, and quite sound; 
 if any part should happen to get yellow and rancid, scrape it oft, 
 rubbing the spot with a mixture of salt, pepper, and flour; but 
 be sure you don’t keep it eighteen months, as it appears the old 
 woman’s son did; so that, with all the indulgence of nature, who 
 allows us to preserve meat, by means of pickling it, for some con- 
 siderable time, yet common sense tells us, that it will not last for 
 ever. Ham, when well cured by experienced hands, can be kept 
 good for several years. The fault I before mentioned, exists in every 
 county, not excepting Westmoreland and Yorkshire, which two latter, 
 being ham counties, of course the evil does not run to so great an 
 extent. I daresay, Eloise, you will fancy this country conversation 
 rather too long to be pleasant. You may be right, as far as its value 
 as reading for the drawing-room goes, but let me tell you again, that 
 if these simple plans were adopted, more than one hundred thousand 
 tons of meat would be saved throughout the kingdom yearly, and 
 made to feed man rather than wasted as it is at present. 
 
 LAMB. 
 
 I think I ought not to mention this innocent and playful little 
 animal, but on second consideration, and remembering that King 
 Alfred once sought shelter in a cottage, and it being possible that 
 from accident, or some other cause, that a cottager might find him- 
 self unexpectedly honoured by a guest, to whom he would like to 
 give a delicacy, which could not be done better in the elaborate 
 kitchens of the most wealthy, than in the old iron pot of the most 
 humble abode. 
 
 Ii is rare that lamb is partaken of by the labourer, as he requires 
 more strengthening nourishment for his hard-looking frame, which 
 can digest everything eatable, without the aid of medical science. 
 These delicacies are left to those who would give a great deal if they 
 could possess the good appetite and the organic mastication of a 
 labouring man. 
 
 83. Boiled Leg of Lamb.—Put six quarts of water into the pot, 
 with six teaspoontuls of salt; wien boiling put in the lamb, boil 
 slowly for one hour; remove the scum as it rises; serve it with 
 plain melted butter, or parsley and butter, or caper sauce ; boiled 
 turnips or spinach. The broth may be made into soup the 
 same as the mutton. 
 
 84, Boiled Rabhit.—Stuff a rabbit as No. 464; put in pot ten 
 
 Pe eS ee OO Ea) ae en eee et a ee 
 
 a 
 ; 
 
34 VARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK Pot. 
 
 or twelve large onions, with four quarts of water; boil them till 
 tender, then add the rabbit, simmering slowly for one hour, if 
 large; dish it up, keeping it warm; take out the onions, chop 
 them, and put into a pan or the pot with two ounces of butter, 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper, four of flour; mix all well to form 
 a purée, add a pint of milk, boil twenty minutes, stirrmg now 
 and then; pour over the rabbit and serve; little pieces of pickled 
 pork boiled with it isan improvement. Use the broth as above. 
 
 85. Our Christmas Dinner—Small Boiled Turkey.—Put 
 into the pot four quarts of water, three teaspoonfuls of salt, 
 one of pepper, have the turkey ready stuffed, as No. 464; when 
 the water boils, put in the turkey, and four pieces of salt 
 pork or bacon, of about half a pound each, or whole, if you 
 prefer it; also add half a pound of onions, one of white 
 celery, six peppercorns, a bunch of sweet herbs; boil slowly 
 for one hour and a half, mix three ounces of flour with two 
 ounces of butter; melt it in a small pan, add a pint of the 
 liquor from the pot, and half a pint of milk, the onions and 
 celery taken out of the pot, and cut up and added to it; boil for 
 twenty minutes, until it is thickish; serve the turkey on a dish, 
 the bacon separate, and pour the sauce over the bird. 
 
 A turkey done in this way is delicious. With the liquor, in 
 which you may add a little colouring, a vermicelli, rice, or clear 
 vegetable soup can be made; skim off the fat, and serve. 
 
 The above with a plum pudding boiled the day before, and 
 rewarmed in boiling water in the pot whilst eating the soup 
 and turkey, and the addition of potatoes, baked in the embers, 
 under the grate, is a very excellent dinner, and can all be done 
 with the black pot. 
 
 Fowls and Chickens may be done the same way, giving only 
 half-an-hour for chickens, and three quarters for fowls. 
 
 86. A cheap Tripe Dinner.—Sometimes the cuttings of tripe, 
 or pig’s chittérlings, or even a cow-heel, can be had very cheap, in 
 which case they should be eut into square pieces ; peel eight good 
 onions, and ten large potatoes, for every four pounds of the meat ; 
 Jay some of the potatoes at the bottom of the pot, season with salt 
 and pepper, then some of the tripe, then onions and potatoes, 
 until ali is in; then mix a’quarter ofa pound of flour with three 
 quarts of water; mix smooth, and: boil gently for two hours; 
 
VARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK Pot. 85 
 
 seum and serve. This will make enough food for a family of 
 twelve, and cost about one shilling and sixpence. 
 
 87. Calve’s Head and Feet—If by any chance either of 
 _ these articles are to be bought cheap, which is sometimes the 
 case in London or any market town, cut the head open, take 
 out the brains, put it in the pot with six teaspoonfuls of 
 salt, two of pepper, four onions, parsley, and a little thyme; 
 put in six quarts of water, in which mix one quarter of a pound 
 of flour; being placed, set it to boil gently, skim it occasionally, 
 boil three hours ; just before serving, add a wineglass of vinegar ; 
 serve with parsley and butter, alone, or with the brains, cleaned 
 and boiled in it; sharp sauce, No. 411. 
 
 _ The feet may be boiled in the same way. The liquor makes 
 an excellent soup for the next day, either thick or thin, and with 
 or without vegetables, or purée of peas, carrots, turnips, Xc., 
 or mock turtle. 
 
 88. Sheep’s Head and Feet.—Take two sheeps’ heads and cut 
 the same as calf’s head, and put in pot, with half'a pound of pearl . 
 barley, four spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, two carrots, four 
 onions, and four quarts of water; boil for about two hours, 
 or until tender, and serve. 
 
 Four feet added to it improve the broth. The heads when 
 cooked may be egged and bread-crumbed over, and then put in 
 the oven to brown for fifteen to twenty minutes. Lat it either 
 plain or with sharp sauce. Calves’ head is very good done the 
 same, 
 
 89. Curry Fish—Put into the pot four onions and two 
 apples, in thin slices, some bayleaf, thyme, or savory, with a 
 quarter of a pound of fat or dripping, three tablespoonfuls 
 of salt, one tablespoonful of sugar, and fry for fifteen minutes ; 
 then pour in three quarts of water and one pound of rice; boil 
 till tender ; add one tablespoonful of curry-powder, mixed in a 
 little water ; cut up six pounds of cheap fish the size of an egg; 
 add to the above, and boil for twenty or thirty minutes, according _ 
 to the kind of fish. If salt fish is used, omit the salt. If no 
 herbs, do without, but always use what you can get. 
 
 90. Savory Rice-—Take six pounds of bones, broken small; 
 boil in eight quarts of water for three hours, haying added three 
 p a ' 
 
86 VARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK Por. 
 
 tablespoonfuls of salt, a bunch of thyme, bayleaf, and savory, 
 if any. When done, pour it into an earthen pan, remove the 
 bones; the fat will do for puddings; or put the fat or two 
 ounces of dripping into the pot, with two onions cut thin, half a 
 pound of either carrots, turnips, or celery, cut thin; two tea- 
 spoonfuls of sugar; put it on the fire for fifteen minutes, 
 stirring it continually; add half a pound of oatmeal, and mix 
 well; then pour over the stock that has come from the bones. 
 Add one pound of rice previously washed ; boil till tender, and 
 serve. This will be found both cheap and nutritious. 
 
 91. Rice Panada.—Boil one pound of rice in four quarts of 
 water; add one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of salt. Mix with some cold water one pound of flour 
 or oatmeal, so that it forms a thin paste; stir im three teaspoonfuls 
 of curry powder, add all to the rice, boil for twenty minutes, 
 and serve. A quarter of a pound of butter or dripping may be 
 added. Should it be preferred sweet, use a quarter of a pound 
 of treacle instead of curry. This will make ten pounds of solid 
 food, and is good either hot or cold. 
 
 92. Peas Panada.—Cut a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, 
 or pork, into small dice; put it in the pot with two onions, sliced, 
 or leeks: fry for ten minutes; keep stirring; then add one and 
 a quarter pound of split peas, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of 
 sugar, and one gallon of water. Boil till it becomes a purée, 
 or pulp; then add sufficient oatmeal or flour to make it very 
 thick; simmer twenty minutes; keep stirring it, and serve. 
 
 Indian meal may be used, but it must be soaked; the husk, 
 which floats, removed, boiled for two hours, and then added to 
 it. If there are no onions, use some sweet herbs. 
 
 This may be made sweet by omitting the bacon, and using 
 a quarter of a pound of treacle, and when cold, may be cut to 
 pieces, and given to children as food. 
 
 93. Cheese Stirabout.—Nearly fill the iron pot with water, 
 throw in three table tablespoonsful of salt; when boiling, throw 
 in by degrees some Indian meal,—the quantity depends on the 
 quality ; on an average, if the water is soft, one pound to every 
 two quarts; that would be four pounds. When well stirred, — 
 remove the husk with a spoon, which floats on the top. Then 
 throw in one pouns of strong cheese, broken in pieces, or grated. 
 
at eae Tose verter nt, ems, Ce eae g OD ae re a 
 et a ae é t 2 ' ie al gk 
 
 + 
 VARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK POT. 37 
 
 _ Boil for twenty minutes, and serve. Or, put it on a greasy, baking- 
 tin, throw some more cheese on the top, put in the oven for 
 twenty minutes, and serve. Or, allow it to get cold, cut in 
 pieces, and fry. 
 
 94. Indian Meal Poullenta.—Boil the meal as above (it 
 must be very thick), without the cheese; mind that it is stirred 
 up a great deal, or it will catch to the bottom of the pot; pour 
 some into a baking-dish well greased; cut some beef or pork, 
 sausages, saveloys, or black puddings, into slices, and place them 
 on it. Cover this over with some more meal from the pot; 
 bake for twenty minutes, and serve. 
 
 This is an excellent and cheap dish, and well worthy the 
 attention of all classes, now that flour has become so expensive ; 
 it is fit for the tables of the most wealthy, if a strong gravy is 
 poured over it when served. This may be made sweet with 
 either jam, treacle, or brown sugar. 
 
 95. Another Way.—For the above proportion, mince about 
 two pounds of meat, as No. 156, or liver. Mix well, then let 
 it get cold; cut and fry anyhow you like; of course omit 
 saveloys and black-puddings when meat is used. 
 
 In France, ox-liver is used in soup, to flavour the broth, and many 
 people eat it, fried or stewed. If it is in use in cooking in one 
 country, why should we not give it a trial. The proverb says, 
 “what is good for the goose is good for the gander,” therefore what 
 is good for our neighbours and allies cannot possibly be bad for us. 
 An ox in France is uncommonly like an English one, and these 
 quadrupeds are equally as particular in their selection of food as 
 ours; and if the calves’, pigs’, sheep’s, and lambs’ liver is fit for the 
 tables of the wealthy, why should not that of the ox be deemed good 
 for human food. 
 
 It is our duty, Eloise, in this work, to bring every wholesome 
 Kind of cheap food to the notice of the poor, so that with a little 
 exertion, they may live, and live well, with the few pence they earn, 
 instead ot living badly at times, and most extravagantly at others, 
 and not to allow nourishing food to be wasted, as it is at present. 
 In many parts, and even in Ireland, during the year of the famine, 
 those who were starving would not partake of ox-liver. These are 
 bought up in that country, put into casks, with salt, sent over to a 
 sea-port in England; they are then subjected to a cold pressure, by 
 which the liquid is extracted, which is uscd for adulterating an 
 
—' > “See ia. © 
 
 38 VARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK POT. 
 
 article in universal use; the remains are then dried in ovens, poutine. 
 and sent back to Ifeland to be made into snuff. 
 
 96, Stewed Ox Heart and Liver.—Wash the heart well; 
 chop a few onions and sage, and mix with it a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, and a quarter of pepper. Put it in the heart, 
 and lay it in the pan with the top part downwards. Cut one 
 pound of suet in quarter of a pound pieces; also two pounds of 
 ox liver, and a little bacon, if handy. Season with three tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four or five onions, three pounds 
 of potatoes, and pour over three quarts of water. Place it in 
 the oven for three hours, and it is done. 
 
 In this dish, dried pulse of any kind, previously soaked, may 
 be used with advantage, such as the white harico bean, the dried 
 Windsor bean, the lentil bean; all of which may be had in the 
 winter time in great abundance; and it is to be regretted that 
 there is not a large consumption in this country of pulse, as the 
 crop does not rob the ground so much as the potato, and is con- 
 siderably cheaper than flour. Dried yellow or green peas may 
 be used. 
 
 _ They are a good article for a tradesman to keep in stock, as 
 they do not deteriorate, like the potato, and only require to be 
 known, to be equally as much esteemed as that root. 
 
 FRENCH POT AU FRU. 
 
 (This may also be done in the iron saucepan, stewpan, or 
 baking-pan.) 
 
 I cannot expect that this truly national soup of France can be 
 made to perfection, or done with so much care as in that country, 
 therefore I have simplified it, and shall call it The French Cottage 
 Pot aw Feu, or French Soup. 
 
 97. Put a gallon of water in the pot, put four pounds of the 
 buttock of beef, or shin, or five pounds of the thick part of the leg, 
 three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four onions, four leeks cut 
 in pieces, two carrots, and two good-sized turnips, three cloves, one 
 burnt onion, or three spoonfuls of colourig ; set it on the fire; when 
 beginning to scum, skim it, and place the pot on one side of the fire. 
 Add now and then a drop of cold water; it will make it clear. Boil 
 four hours. Bread sliced, put into the tureen, arid pour the broth, 
 with some of the vegetables, over; serve the meat separate, and the 
 remaining vegetables round, 
 
Be Wi ad te a8 tae ROL ae ey 
 Ben. oe : : r 
 
 i 3 VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPAN. 39 
 
 : 
 iw: 
 - good soup and bouilli. If you run short of any of the vegetables, 
 
 If this simple receipt is well attended to, you will find it a very 
 
 make it good with others. Ifno burnt onions or colouring, the soup 
 will be white, instead of a sherry colour; but still it will be good. 
 In France they always put in half a pound of ox-liver to every four 
 pounds of meat. Iam sure they are too good judges, over the water, 
 
 to spoil their soup; in fact, there the ox-liver costs as much as the 
 -meat—sixpence per pound—therefore it is not with a view of 
 
 saving, but to make it better. 
 
 974. French Ragout of Mutton.—Put in the pot a quarter 
 of a pound of dripping: when hot, peel and cut twenty small 
 turnips, or ten large ones, into pieces the size of a walnut; put 
 them into the fat, and fry untilbrownish. Take them out, then 
 put into the fat a quarter of a pound of flour; stir round until 
 brown. You have prepared four pounds of scrag of mutton, cut 
 in small pieces; put them in, and stir round; then add enough 
 water to cover the meat; stir until boilmg. When the mutton 
 is nearly done, which you will find by trying it with a’ fork, 
 add the turnips; season with three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of 
 pepper, the same of brown sugar, and a little bit of scraped 
 garlic, if handy. Any part of mutton may be used. Ragout cf 
 veal or lamb may be done in this manner. 
 
 The following receipts to be done in a middle-sized iron 
 saucepan. 
 
 98. Stewed Hels—Put into a saucepan a teaspoonful of 
 chopped onions, half a pint of melted butter, No. 410, one tea- 
 spoonful of anchovy sauce, one of vinegar, and one teaspoonful of 
 colouring. Cut up one pound of eels in pieces two inches long, 
 rub them in a little flour and salt, put them in the pan, and stew 
 for half an hour, and serve with some toasted bread round. A 
 little ale or wine may be used instead of vinegar, and the sauce 
 should be thick. 
 
 99. Stewed Hels. No. 2.—Cut them as above, dip in flour, 
 and partly fry them in fat a few minutes, and stew them as above, 
 and serve with toast. 
 
 100. Hels Stewed White. No. 3.—Cut up one pound, as 
 before ; put them in the pan with half a pint of milk and three- 
 quarters of a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, half an onion, 
 in slices, and some sprigs of parsley. Stew gently for twenty 
 minutes; mix one ounce of butter with half an ounce of flour, 
 
40 VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPAN. 
 
 put in your stewpan in small pieces, stir round gently, boil for 
 five minutes, or longer, if large, and serve. The juice of a 
 lemon, or a little vinegar, is an improvement. Lampreys 
 and weaver may be done the same. 
 
 101. Cod’s Hard Roe.—Tie a cod’s roe in a cloth, place in 
 a pan two quarts of water and two teaspoonfuls of salt; put in 
 the roe, boil gently for one hour, take it out, cut off as much as. 
 you require, put it in the dish, pour over parsley and butter, and 
 serve. Or egg sauce, or plain, with a little butter and pepper. 
 The remainder, when cold, may be cut into slices and semi- 
 fried, as fish. 
 
 102. Cod’s Sounds, Melt, and Frill——Nothing is more de- 
 licate than this dish. Boil thirty minutes in boiling salt and 
 water. Dish it up, pour thick egg sauce over, or fennel sauce, 
 or black butter, No. 422. The first-mentioned, if salted, must 
 be well soaked. 
 
 Truly, my dear Eloise, I cannot but return you my very best 
 thanks for the incessant inquiries you make as to the state of my 
 health. 
 
 You blame me in your last letter for having visited the small town 
 of Castleford, as also the beautiful little village of Methway, while 
 the cholera was raging in those places. Allow me to impress upon 
 your mind that, first of all, I have no personal fear of the epidemic, 
 and that I take a deal of interest in endeavouring to ascertain the 
 cause, or partly so, of such an awful visitation, as my letter of the 
 25th of March, which has appeared in the public press, will partly 
 explain the cause of this calamity.* In that letter I ought to 
 have included Leeds, Hull, and Bradford, those immense towns of 
 thick fog, wealth, manufacturers, charming habitations, palaces, bad 
 drainage, and real black—not sea, but—river, which, for want of 
 proper drainage, if not attended to, will always subject those places 
 to such epidemics. 
 
 The working classes of the commercial districts of Yorkshire earn 
 very good wages, though, at the same time, they work very hard; 
 their ignorance in the science of cooking is deplorable, and, without 
 boasting, Eloise, I must say that I have been of some service to 
 these same people, in improving the condition of their homes, as three 
 parts of the wives of this hard-working class are utterly devoid of any 
 knowledge of domestic economy. Cookery to them is almost un- 
 known; but I must say they are willing to learn, and I hope this 
 
 * See end of the book. 
 
VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPAN. ai 
 work will be the means of terminating that which I have so success- 
 fully begun. 
 
 Respecting my visiting prisons, hospitals, lunatic asylums, work- 
 houses; also the interior of mines, coalpits, &c. &.; and though I 
 must admit that those localities do not show the brightest part of 
 the mirror of life, still, you must not fancy that these people are all 
 unhappy; on the contrary, they are as contented as I am, and not a 
 day passes but what I teach them something in my way, at the 
 same time learning many little things from them, and I think you 
 will own that my correspondence partakes more of a jovial than a 
 morose nature. 
 
 Such is my opinion of that large class of society, termed the 
 million, after nearly twelve months stay among them, throughout 
 the united queendom. 
 
 IMPORTANT REMARKS ON COD-LIVER OIL. 
 
 But now to a very important culinary, and I think medical discovery, 
 ‘which I owe to my persevering visits to various public charities in the 
 towns through which I passed. This happened at Hull, about three 
 months ago, from which town, if you recollect, I forwarded you the 
 drawing of the Station Hotel, where I was staying—I call it the 
 Monument Hotel, being so large and beautiful. But to come back to 
 the question ; one of the proprietors, Mr. Jordan, on my asking if I 
 could visit the infirmary, kindly proposed to conduct me there, and 
 introduce me to the governor, which was done to my entire satisfac- 
 tion ; and I must say that the sick are not better attended to in any 
 similar establishment I have visited in the country. 
 
 Being aware of the immense quantity of cod-liver oil taken by 
 delicate persons, now-a-days, and the great benefit derived from its 
 use, I asked the medical officer present his opinion of its efficacy. 
 “ Nothing can be better,” was his reply, “in many cases. But,” 
 said he, “ many patients cannot take it, being of such an unpleasant 
 taste, more especially children, and as we in this establishment use 
 the second quality, from motives of economy, it is doubly unpleasant.” 
 
 I myself tasted some, and must say that I found it anything but 
 relishing. 
 
 After bidding adieu to the doctor, I and my host left, and while 
 returning to my hotel, I thought that something could be done to 
 alter the present unpleasant way of administering it. Accordingly, 
 upon reaching home, I sent for the following:— 
 
 103. One pound of fresh cod-liver; I then peeled and steamed two 
 pounds of nice*floury potatoes, then cut the liver in four pieces, placed 
 it over the potatoes, and then steamed them, letting the oil from the 
 liver fall on the potatoes; I then made some incisions in the liver 
 with a knife, to extract the remaining oil, afterwards dishing up 
 
ee NER ; alae laa erie 
 iy) : 
 
 49 ‘YARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPAN, 
 
 the liver, which was eaten with a little melted butter and anchovy 
 sauce. The potatoes were served up with a little salt and pepper. 
 ‘Both dishes were found extremely good. 
 
 The following is another way of éxtracting the oil of a cod’s liver, 
 with the aid of that abundant article, rice. 
 
 104. Rice and Cod Liver.—Boil half a pound of rice in two 
 quarts of water. When nearly done, remove three parts of the 
 water; then put over your rice a pound of cod’s liver, cut in 
 large dice. Put the saucepan in a slow oven for about thirty 
 minutes, by which time it will be nicely cooked. Then take the 
 
 liver out, which serve as above directed. Stir the rice with a 
 fork, and serve it; if allowed by a medical man, add a little salt 
 and pepper. If no oven, cook the liver and rice on a very slow 
 fire, for otherwise it would burn, and be unwholesome as food. 
 
 Of course you can easily see what a blessing such diet as this 
 must be to a person incapable of taking the oil by itself, as, by 
 mixing it with the food, it entirely loses that rancid quality for 
 which it is proverbial. 
 
 105. Tapioca and Cod Liver.—Boil a quarter of a pound of 
 tapioca till tender in two quarts of water; drain it in a cullender, 
 then put it back in the pan; season with a little salt and pepper, 
 add half a pint of milk, put over one pound of fresh cod liver, 
 cut in eight pieces. Set your pan near the fire to simmer 
 slowly for half an hour, or a little more, till your liver is quite 
 cooked. Press on it with a spoon, soas to get as much oil into 
 the tapioca as possible. After taking away the liver, mix the 
 tapioca. If too thick, add a little milk, then boil it a few 
 minutes; stir round, add a little salt and pepper, and serve. If 
 you have a slow oven, use it in preference to the fire; but if you 
 are without an oven, here is another good way of cooking it: 
 
 106. Put three inches depth of water in a largish pan; then 
 put the pan containing the tapioca in the above-mentioned pan ; 
 let it simmer till quite done. It will take about an hour. By 
 adopting this plan, all fear of burning is obviated; afterwards 
 remove the liver, which serve as at No. 103. 
 
 107. Sago, or semolina, may be done the same way, and by 
 adding an egg, it will make a delicate pudding; or by cutting 
 
 the liver in small dice, you may add it to your pudding, putting 
 in a little more milk to make it moist; then add a couple more 
 
a ChE eS ie Mee 
 — VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPAN. » 43 
 
 egos, well beaten, and mix; putting it in a basin, previously well _ 
 buttered; then let it simmer in a stewpan for half an hour, or 
 till set; then turn it out ona dish; sauce with a little plain 
 melted butter, anchovy, or parsley and butter. 
 
 A little stringent food, such as the above, will be found very 
 refreshing, even to persons in ‘good health. 
 
 108. Rice may be also turned to good account; and I do not 
 see why, after having taken the liver out, and adding four tea- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, two eggs, one ounce of butter, and a little 
 lemon peel, it would not make a very good sweet pudding. Pour 
 over it, when done, a little melted butter with a spoonful of 
 sugar, some lemon juice, or wine; or treacle, for children. 
 
 109. Cod Roe and Cod Liver.—Buy a cod’s liver and roe, 
 éut open the skin which surrounds it; put the eggs in a basin, 
 pour water over them, mashing them with your hand, to separate 
 them, throwing away the water; add half a pound of salt, and 
 a teaspoonful of pepper; let them soak all night, afterwards 
 washing them well in two or three waters, leaving about a gill 
 at the bottom; then put about two pounds of cod liver over it, 
 cut in six or eight pieces, putting the stewpan either on a very 
 slow fire, or in an oven, for one hour; then take out the liver, 
 which serve as usual. Add about a gill of melted butter in the 
 roe, when it will be ready. 
 
 110. Or for any one in health four hard-boiled eggs, chopped, 
 may be added, or three raw ones instead, and make a pudding 
 of it; pour it in, steam it in water till well set, then turn it out, 
 and sauce over with any fish sauce you like. ‘The hard roe of 
 any fish may be dressed like this, especially the roe of sturgeons, 
 
 CARTHUSIAN OF MEAT AND VEGETABLES. 
 
 You will perhaps be surprised at the name I have given to this 
 curious mixture of vegetable produce, but you will immediately per- 
 ceive that I have taken it from those well known monks who took 
 vows to partake of no animal food, something like our strict vege- 
 tarians of the present day; but those jolly old dogs in former days 
 were obliged, at times, to break their vow; as, however, it could not 
 be done openly, they were obliged to mask the object cooked in a 
 covering of vegetables, and thus cheated their oath and their own 
 conscience, 
 
44 VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPAN, 
 
 Carthusian, or Chartreuse, in French cookery, means any article of 
 food, such as meat, game, or poultry, so surrounded by vegetables, that 
 even a vegetarian would be deceived with its appearance, while sitting 
 at dinner, and would not find out his mistake until helped with some 
 of the dishes. 
 
 111. Is¢ ZLesson.—If in winter, cut crossways, in four, a 
 large savoy cabbage, or two small ones; take off a few of the 
 outside green leaves; wash the cabbage well, then put on the 
 fire either an iron pot, or a three-legged black pot; put in about 
 three quarts of water; when boiling, add your cabbage, boil 
 them for ten minutes, or a little longer, then drain them in a 
 cullender or cloth, pressing out the water; cut away the stalk 
 from each piece, then chop your cabbage, though not too fine, 
 letting it weigh about two pounds; when thus prepared, which 
 will be our proportion of vegetable to one pound of meat; 
 previous to chopping them upon the board, season with one tea- 
 spoonful of salt, that is, if salt meat be used; two ditto if the 
 meat be fresh ; one teaspoonful of pepper at all times. 
 
 Suppose we select for this, our first lesson, three middling- 
 sized pigs’ tongues. You have put them to boil with your 
 cabbage, then cut them through lengthways, then place at the 
 bottom of your pan about an inch deep of cabbage, and half an 
 inch round the inside of the pan, placing your meat in the 
 centre, thus making the meat invisible to the eye when turned 
 out of the pot; when filled, add a quarter of a pound of butter 
 or dripping, two wineglasses of vinegar, if English, or one, if 
 French, one gill of water; set it on a brick, placed in the oven, 
 for two hours; then open your pan, and place over your cabbage 
 a tea saucer ; press out all the gravy in a cup, pass a knife round 
 your pot, then put a dish over the mouth inside downwards, 
 turn the pot or basin upside down, when your carthusian will turn 
 out like a pudding: pour the gravy or bread crumb sauce over, 
 and serve. 
 
 112. 2nd Lesson.—The above may be done in pudding- 
 basins, or in deep oval pie-dishes, and either baked slowly as - 
 above, or steamed as puddings, but as there will be no cover to 
 it, put over a cover of pudding-paste (see No. 319) ; fix over as for 
 pies or puddings, making several small holes in the paste, and 
 only putting half the moisture in. When done, remove the paste, 
 which put on the dish you intend to serve it in; press out the 
 
a; Se ina are a 4c)! otal 4 Ss q “ 0 ERGs 2 OS “8 29 a 
 Aiea wees ae te ¢ tia REE one 
 5 ‘ St . ire 
 
 ’ 
 
 VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPAN. Ad 
 
 gravy, turn your carthusian out on the paste, already laid on the 
 
 dish; then proceed with the gravy as above described; red_ 
 eabbage is also very good, but requires double the quantity of 
 vinegar, and more pepper; proceed the same; they require 
 boiling in water about thirty minutes, if at all large, and rather 
 old, as they are at Christmas. 
 
 113. 3rd and General Lesson.—Having given you the base 
 or foundation in the above receipts on animal food, I will now 
 in a few words describe the extraordinary variations that can be 
 made with this favourite dish of the best judges of good cheer, 
 —viz., the monastic fraternity of olden times. 
 
 Instead of the above, you may use pig’s feet, cheek, pickled 
 pork, bacon, ham, liver of all kinds, previously fried, or partly so, 
 sausages, black-pudding, or salt beef, previously boiled and cut 
 in slices, or any part of fresh meat previously roasted, any 
 remains of poultry or game may be done the same by cutting 
 them in slices; if, however, they have not been previously cooked, 
 they will take two hours instead of one. Pigeons, partridges, and 
 all kinds of small birds, may be put in rows, only they should 
 be larded or stuffed previously. 
 
 This will give you an idea of the various ways in which this 
 dish can be made, as far as animal food goes. 
 
 The following will, by omitting the meat, be applicable for 
 vegetarians. 
 
 VEGETABLE PUDDING. 
 
 114. 4th and General Lesson for the Use of the Vegetarian. 
 —You must observe, Eloise, that the above receipts are all 
 made with cabbage only. I have made them so, because, while 
 ~ travelling last winter, I found that every cottager grew cabbage, 
 while no other vegetable was to be seen in his garden ; but now 
 that summer is here, I will give you the receipts in the way.the 
 monks used to make them; and, mind, they were all good 
 cooks in those days. They always had a foundation of cabbage 
 or greens, or some kind of Brussels sprouts, one pound of — 
 either of the above done as in the first receipt; then they 
 added a pound of either boiled carrots, turnips, parsnips, beet- 
 roots, artichokes, potatoes, leeks, celery, or onions; boil the 
 pound of whatever you choose from the above till tender; chop 
 
AG REMARKS ON THE FOOD OF THE POOR. 
 
 it with your cabbage; season, and proceed as with cabbage only. 
 Spue-grass, cut small, or peas, may also be boiled and mixed, © 
 but not chopped; a little sugar is an improvement to vegetables, 
 as it varies the flavour; use any aromatic herbs and spice you 
 choose, but always in proportion. 
 
 You may also, for a change, pour either a little white or 
 brown sauce over (see sauces), but observe that the vegetables 
 must always be kept firm enough to turn out as a pudding; 
 either serve in a pan: or, to save trouble, turn the whole into 
 a tureen, or in a large dish, that is, if fora large family, but the 
 proper way is as first described. In fact, there is no end to the 
 ingenuity which may be displayed in the variation of this dish ; 
 and to the cottager, with his small plot of garden-ground, 
 wherein he can produce sufficient vegetables for his family, it is 
 one of great economy, besides being exceedingly conducive to 
 health at all times. 
 
 GENERAL IGNORANCE OF THE POOR IN COOKING. 
 
 Ox cheeks may be bought at present, eut from the bone, and very 
 fresh, at about twopence-halfpenny to threepence per pound, in 
 London. It is the most gelatinous food which the ox produces, and 
 contains a large amount of nourishment, as I have already mentioned 
 to you. . The only drawback there is to it is the length of time it 
 requires to cook, and the general way in which it is done, being in 
 many cases prejudicial to its use. Frequently on my visits to the abodes 
 of the poor, while in London last winter, I have often seen this article 
 of food completely spoiled. On one occasion, I asked an old lady how 
 she‘cooked it. “ Sure enough,” said she, “ by fire.” ‘ But, my dear 
 woman,” I inquired, “how long do you cook it?” “Ah!” she 
 replied, “sometimes as long as an hour, and boiling like the very 
 deuce all the time, till the water will not stand it any longer.” 
 ** And pray,” I asked, “what do you do with the water?” “ Faith, 
 there is no water left, but only black muck at the bottom of the pot, 
 which I throw away,” was her reply. 
 
 Therefore I am always of the same opinion, dearest Eloise, as 
 regards our long talked of scheme of opening a national school to 
 teach the poor how to cook their food, and make the most of it. 
 Some of the money spent’ on our new palace prisons would be much 
 better employed for this purpose, and would ultimately decrease the 
 parish rates. ; 
 
 But I am digressing from the conversation I had with this old 
 dame, When I found she was so.ignorant, I asked her if I should | 
 
REMARKS ON TUE FOOD OF THE POOR. A 
 
 come and teach her how to cook, properly, an ox cheek. No, 
 faith,” said she, “I have no money to throw away, not even enough 
 to buy another.” Sanguine as I always am upon my favourite 
 theme, I offered to bring one with me, asa present, the following 
 day, and gave her sixpence to buy some sand to clean her iron pot, 
 which I found done on my arrival the following day; she having 
 also purchased two pennyworth of coals out of the money. I then 
 produced the ox cheek, and put it into the pot with four quarts of cold 
 water, and four teaspoonfuls of salt, and some leaves of celery, which 
 articles were given to her by a neighbouring greengrocer. Her fire 
 was made up, and the pot was placed on it, until boiling, and then 
 removed to the side of it, and skimmed. There I left it, and went 
 round to pay my other visits. 
 
 At the end of three hours I returned, and, she having a large 
 basin in the room, I put some crusts of bread in it, and poured 
 the liquid from the pot into it, and the meat I placed on a dish, 
 and sat down with the old dame, serving the soup out into cups 
 with a beer jug, having nothing better, and, to her great surprise, 
 cut the cheek easily with a very bad knife, it being so tender. After 
 tasting it, and finding it very good, she said she would show 
 
 _her neighbours how to do it. I told her that, if she would do so, 
 
 I would give her more like receipts, when she exclaimed, “ Bless 
 you, ma’am, do; I will do them as well as you, now I have seen you 
 do it.” In anticipation of sending them to her the next day, I,was 
 about to retire, wishing her goodbye. ‘Lor’, ma’am,” said she, 
 you would not go without taking a drop of the ‘crature.2” To my 
 astonishment, a small bottle was brought out of her pocket, and offered 
 tome, From its strange smell, I was induced to taste it, and I feel 
 confident, if it had been analyzed by the “ Lancet,” it would have 
 proved to be real blue ruin, composed, as it was, of a mixture of 
 vitriol, &e. Bikes 
 
 This opened to me the secret of the emaciated looks of the thou- 
 sands of the inhabitants of these back alleys, and I could then account 
 for the remainder of my change out of the sixpence. I, however, 
 sent her the following receipts, of course omitting her favourite 
 seasoning—gin. 
 
 Having sent her the receipts, as promised, on reconsideration, it 
 occurred to me that the old lady might not be able to read. I was 
 not mistaken, for on calling upon her, I found six elderly matrons 
 and an old man holding council together, and trying to make out 
 the writing. Thejlatter was just sending for his grandson, who, he 
 said, was a scholar, haying been three months at a Sunday-school. 
 My arrival set all to rights, at the same time it frightened three of the 
 council away; but I begged the others to stop, and hear the receipts 
 read, which they accordingly did, afterwards giving several copies 
 Away e 
 
 Say ee ae Te ee a 
 
48 fir GRIDIRON AND FRYING-PAN, 
 
 115. 1st Lesson.—Rub an ox cheek (middle size, or halfa large 
 one) with four teaspoontuls of salt and one of pepper; put it into | 
 the iron pot, with four quarts of cold water; set it on the fire to 
 - boil; remove it then to the side, and simmer gently for three 
 hours after it begins to boil. Skim off the fat, which will do for 
 puddings, and, at the expiration of the time, nearly three quarts 
 of very strong gravy, in addition to the meat properly done and 
 tender, will be found in the pot. A gill of colouring is an im- 
 provement to the look of the broth. A head of celery, or some 
 leaves of it, or onions, &c., may be added in boiling. Put the 
 head on a dish, and serve the soup separately, with bread in it. 
 
 116. 2nd Lesson.—Or any small quantity of mixed vegetables 
 may be used. They should all be cut into dice, and not peeled, but 
 well cleaned, with the exception of the dried skin of the onion. 
 One pound of rice, at the cost of twopence-halfpenny, when 
 added, is a great improvement; or half-a-pint of split peas, or 
 - barley, or a pint of white haricot beans, or a pint of Indian meal 
 soaked the over-night, or a little flour to make the gravy or 
 broth thick. It may be varied in several ways; but the chief 
 pomt is, when once boiled, simmer slowly till tender, which you 
 may ascertain by piercing it with a fork; if it sticks to it, it is 
 not sufficiently done. Sheep and lamb’s head may be done the 
 same way, but will only take one quarter of the time; season 
 accordingly. 
 
 This receipt is applicable to all kinds of hard meat. 
 
 ao 
 
 THE GRIDIRON AND FRYING-PAN. 
 The Results of their Rivalry in Domestic Cookery. 
 
 Your favourite*utensil, the frying-pan, Eloise, is, without doubt, 
 the most useful of all kitchen implements, and like a good-natured 
 servant, is often imposed upon, and obliged to do all the work, while 
 its companion, the gridiron, is quietly reposing in the chimney 
 corner. 
 
 The following scene was witnessed by those two faithful servants, 
 the other afternoon, in a domestic establishment, where the sly dog 
 of a gridiron often laughs between its bars at the overworked frying- 
 pan. 
 
 The husband, who is employed by a railway contractor, and a man 
 who is what the world calls middling well off, and who has risen by 
 his own exertions and abilities from a more humble position, arrives 
 
. home, and asks his wife what he can have for dinner, the hour of her 
 dinner, and that of the children, having long past. “ What would 
 you like to have, my dear?” was her question. “Anything you 
 have.” ‘ Let’s see! why—we have nothing, but I can get you a 
 mutton chop, or steak.” ‘Can I have nothing else; I am tired of 
 chops and steaks.” “ Why, my dear, what can be better than a 
 chop or a steak?” “Well, let me have a steak.” “You had that 
 yesterday, my dear: now, let me get youachop. I always make it 
 
 my duty to study your comfort; and as I have been reading, not 
 long since, a medical work on diseases of the skin, written by Dr. 
 Erasmus Wilson, in which he says that nothing is so wholesome as 
 a change of food, since which time I have made a point of varying 
 our bill of fare, as they call it in that useful work.” “ Very well, 
 send for two chops.” In about twenty minutes the servant returns, 
 saying she could get no chops, but has got a nice piece of steak. 
 * Very well, That will do as well, will it not, my dear?” to 
 her husband, who is reading a periodical.” “Yes; but how long 
 will you keep me here before it is done?” “Not a minute, my 
 love. Now, Jane, do that well on the gridiron.” Jane descends, 
 but quickly returns, saying, “ Please, ma’am, the fire is not fit 
 
 OE MeO ITS ee TN Seno De Mee here, ey 
 pase ne * oy A ne 
 
 MEAT ON GRIDIRON. 49° 
 
 for broiling.” <“ Well, fry it,” is her answer. The husband, who . 
 
 hears it, exclaims, “Drat the frying-pan, it is always so greasy.” 
 “Then, my dear, how would you like to have it.” “Not at all,” 
 _ was his reply, throwing down the paper, and exclaiming, “ Bother the 
 place, there is no getting any victuals properly cooked here. I must 
 go to the cook-shop and have it.” He seizes his hat, and slamming 
 the door, makes his exit in a passion. 
 
 The mistress blames Jane, and begins to beat the child for having _ 
 
 upset the milk on the toast. Jane kicks the cat, and gives warning. 
 The night comes. There are no candles in the house. Jane is sent 
 out for them, but does not return in proper time. The husband 
 arrives, and finds all in darkness. They quarrel, and swear they 
 must separate in order to “live comfortably together.” Jane comes 
 home, and is ordered to pack up her boxes, in order to be off the 
 first thing in the morning, by which time, however, their tempers 
 have had time to cool, and Jane is accordingly reinstated in her 
 former position. 
 
 Moral (not on fable, but on truth): A man disappointed in some- 
 thing to eat, consoles himself with something to drink. If he has 
 no stimulus in wholesome food, he will have it in pernicious spirit. 
 He is quarrelsome, scolds his wife, beats his children, frequents the 
 dram-shop, and becomes what is called a bad husband. It is not 
 altogether his fault, the dinner was not eatable, and he must have 
 something to support him, which he foolishly finds in spirits ; and thus, 
 by the want of attention on the part of the wife, is made what he is. 
 - Inno country in the world do the annals of police courts show such 
 E 
 
50 MEAT ON GRIDIRON. 
 
 scenes as are daily noticed in the public journals of London, which 
 the increase of punishment by a modern law has not yet succeeded in 
 putting down. 
 
 Before proceeding with the following receipt, it is advisable to 
 read the introduction of semi-fried steaks, and steaks in pan, page 55, 
 as it would be tautology to repeat it here. 
 
 IMPORTANT REMARKS ON STEAK AND RUMP STEAK. 
 
 Broiled Steaks and Rump Steak.—Previous to cooking a 
 steak, nurse your fire; it will well repay your trouble, and also 
 remember, in the morning, that you are obliged to dine that 
 very identical day, and no doubt you decide upon. having a 
 steak for dinner, which is a very good thing, when the meat is 
 good and well cooked, also fix the hour you intend to dine, and 
 half an hour previous stir up the fire, clear away the ashes, 
 stir all dead cinders from the bottom, and in a few minutes you 
 will have a clear fire, fit for the use of the gridiron; and every 
 article you may submit to that process of cookery stands a 
 chance of being well done. I herewith forward you the following 
 lesson :-— 
 
 117. First Lesson.—For first quality of steak, the meat ought 
 to be well hung, and if cut nicely off the rump of a Scotch beast 
 will weigh from a pound and a quarter to a pound and a half, 
 that is, being three-quarters of an inch thick; if it should be 
 cut rather thicker in one part than another, beat it even with a 
 chopper; if of the above thickness, it should be placed about 
 five inches. above the fire; if thicker, six inches; taking it as 
 an invariable rule, that the thicker the steak, the further in 
 proportion it must be from the fire. The extra piece of fat 
 which accompanies it should be put on a little after the steak, 
 or it will be too much done. Whilst doing, throw over some 
 pepper and salt, and turn it the moment the fat begins to drop: 
 the motive of constantly turning the steak is to keep the gravy 
 in. Never put a fork into it to turn it, but use a pair of tongs ; 
 but if you have not any, place the fork in the fat and turn it. 
 When the steak is done, it will feel firm under the pressure of 
 the finger, 
 
MEAT ON GRIDIRON. 51 
 
 Second Lesson —Sometimes it is impossible to broil over the 
 fire, but easy to use a double gridiron, to broil in front. In such 
 cases, the gridiron should never be opened until the steak is 
 done; then the gravy will not be pressed out. If carefully 
 attended to, this plan is as good as the other, but otherwise, it 
 spoils the best of meat. 
 
 The time required for a nice tender rump steak, three-quarters 
 of an inch thick, weighing a pound and a quarter, over or before 
 a nice clear fire, is from twelve to fifteen minutes. If turned four 
 times in that time, the gravy will remain in it, and if served imme- 
 diately, on a hot dish (not too hot, to dry up the gravy), it will 
 eat tender and juicy, and be fit for a member of the Rump Steak 
 Club. 
 
 Third Lesson.—Some persons put a bit of butter on the dish, 
 others ketchup, others sauces of various kinds ; all these should 
 be left to the party who partakes of it; it is the duty of the 
 cook to send it up plainly, but properly seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, unless otherwise ordered. Every pound of steak will 
 
 require one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt, and a half of pepper. 
 
 But, if required flavoured and seasoned to satisfy a blasé 
 appetite, then the following should be adopted. 
 
 118. Rump Steak with Eschalot——Chop up one eschalot 
 very fine, mix it with a teaspoonful of salt and half of pepper, 
 rub the steak all over with it, and press it in with a knife; 
 place it over the fire as the above, cook and serve. If not 
 required so strong, rub only the gridiron and the dish with 
 eschalot.* 
 
 ftump Steak with Eschalot Butter.—Cut up two eschalots 
 very fine, and mix it with half an ounce of butter, which spread 
 over-the under part of the steak when dishing up. 
 
 Lump Steak with Maitre d’ Hotel Butter.— When your 
 steak is just done, rub it over with an ounce of prepared butter, 
 as No. 425. 
 
 Devilled Steak.—Mix in a hig two peipnising of salt, half 
 
 * If eschalot is required to be served up in the dish, or on a 
 separate plate, chop them up fine, as at No. 458, and serve two tea- 
 
 - spoonsful to every pound of steak. 
 E2 
 
 , 4a oe! 
 
52 MEAT ON GRIDIRON. 
 
 of cayenne, two of made mustard; place the steak on the fire; 
 after the first turn spread half of the mixture on it, and dredge 
 it with flour; do the same with the other side. Broil as above. 
 
 Curry Powder, mixed with mustard, or curry paste alone, 
 can be rubbed over the same way. 
 
 119. Wakefield Steak.—Cut a steak one inch thick, score it 
 on each side, crossways. Put into a tart dish two teaspoonfuls 
 of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, a teaspoonful of chopped 
 tarragon, a tablespoonful of Soyer’s relish, two tablespoonfuls of 
 vinegar; put the steak in it for six hours; turn it now and 
 then. This seasoning is called marinade. Previous to broiling, 
 dredge it lightly with some flour, while doing, and serve with 
 butter in very small pieces under the steak. At Wakefield they 
 sometimes use the Warncliffe sauce. 
 
 Some raw potatoes cut into very thin slices, and nicely fried, 
 served round it, renders it a dish fit for the greatest epicure. This 
 dish proves that the habitants of Wakefield have not lost the 
 culinary reputation they formerly possessed, and which they first 
 acquired some four hundred years since, when the French queen 
 and her suite came to reside there, and allowed them to quarter 
 the fleur-de-lis in the arms of the town. Beef skirt and other 
 pieces may be all done in the same way, allowing time to cook 
 according to the quality and hardness of the pieces you dress. 
 
 120. Mutton Chops.*—These may all be cooked and flavoured 
 like the steaks, but in many cases garlic is used instead of 
 eschalot, when preferred. Peel a clove of garlick, put it on the 
 end of a fork, and rub both sides of the chop lightly with it. 
 Chopped mushrooms are very good with broiled chops. Any 
 flesy part of the sheep may be broiled the samme way. 
 
 121. Mutton Chop.—In my opinion, two chops out of a fine 
 South Down, well hung, cut three quarters of an inch thick, 
 leaving half an inch of fat round them, and broiled over a clear 
 fire for ten minutes, turned four times, sprinkled with salt and 
 pepper, served on a hot plate, one at a time, with a nice mealy 
 potato, is as good, as wholesome, and nutritious a dinner as can 
 be partaken of. One and a half teaspoonful of salt and a half 
 of pepper to a pound of chops, is a good seasoning. 
 
 * For description of chops see page 55, Frying-Pan, 
 
ee ee eT eee Peery hss PN en ae Ne Mtn curs eM mT ies © 
 ce 13°) i - . yf * 
 
 MEAT ON GRIDIRON. 53 
 
 122. Plain Veal Chops are broiled as above. A veal chop, 
 nicely cut from the leg, ought to weigh one pound. I am of 
 opinion that to broil a veal chop by the direct action of the fire is 
 an act of Vandalism. Of course, if there is no time to do it other 
 ways, it must be done so; but that so delicate a kind ot food 
 should be subject to such fierce treatment in order to spoil it, is 
 what I do not approve of. It ought to be wrapped up in a 
 ‘sheet of buttered paper, with pepper and salt on it. The sheet 
 of paper ought to be large, thick foolscap; the chop laid on one 
 half, the other brought over, and the edges folded over so that no 
 gravy escapes. They should be placed eight inches above the 
 fire, and broiled for at least twenty minutes, and served in the 
 paper very hot. A little chopped mushroom or parsley may be 
 
 ' placed in the paper, and improves the flavour. 
 
 123. Veal Cutlet—A pound of veal not more than half an 
 inch thick, from the fillet, will make three cutlets, and should be 
 broiled with some bacon. The same objection exists with this as 
 the former; but both veal and bacon wrapped up in paper, and 
 broiled as above, is very excellent; a little chopped chives, 
 eschalots, or onions, may be added. 
 
 124. Pork Chops.—These should be cut not quite so thick 
 as mutton, and the skin left on. They will take one third 
 longer to do. Well rubbed with pepper and salt, and an onion, 
 previous to broiling, is an improvement. 
 
 These can be served with any sauce, as apple, tomata, horse- 
 radish, mustard, sage and onion, &c. &c. 
 
 125. Calves’ Heart should be cut lengthways, and the pieces 
 not thicker than half an inch; broil with a piece of fat, or bacon, 
 for ten minutes: serve with a little currant jelly and butter in the 
 dish, under the pieces of heart. 
 
 It is also excellent (see No. 119) marinaded for a few hours, 
 and the followig may be done any way like steak. 
 
 Ox, pig’s, lamb, and sheep’s heart, may be done like it. 
 
 Also the livers of the above, cut the same thickness, and 
 broiled with some bacon, a little melted butter with ketchup in 
 it, is a good sauce for broiled heart and liver. Observe, Eloise, 
 that I shall be obliged to send you many similar receipts to 
 these for frying-pan, but the flavour will be very different. 
 
 126. Lamb Chops should be cut not more than half an inch 
 
 _ thick, and broiled before the fire very close and quick; they will 
 
54 MEAT ON GRIDIRON; 
 
 _ take from eight to ten minutes. Throw some pepper and salt 
 over, and serve very hot, with fried parsley round them, if handy, 
 Lamb chops might be dressed in paper, the same as veal. 
 
 127. Broiled Ham.—A slice of ham a quarter of an inch 
 thick will take seven or eight minutes, over a sharp fire, turning 
 it often. 
 
 Bacon about the same. 
 
 128. Sausages should be placed high above a slow fire, and 
 done slowly: they will take ten minutes; beef sausages, about 
 eight minutes; prick them first with a fork, or they will burst. 
 
 129. Black Puddings.—These are often partaken of cold, after 
 having been boiled, but they are best after broiling: they should 
 be at least eight inches above the fire, and the skins pricked, and 
 will take fifteen minutes doing, turning several times. 
 
 130. Cold Meat Broiled.—The remains of cold meat cut into 
 slices a quarter of an inch thick; season with salt and pepper ; 
 when hot through, rub with a little butter, turn it often, and 
 serve with alittle ketchup in the dish. 
 
 This may be varied with any sauce, or chopped herbs. 
 
 131. Broiled Bones.—When these have a little meat on them, 
 they should be rubbed over with salt and pepper, and a little 
 butter, broiled some distance above or before the fire, that they 
 may get gradually warm, and should be served very hot, and 
 rather brown. 
 
 Remains of poultry, game, &c., should be done the same. 
 
 132. Devilled Bone.—The remains of the rib of a sirloin of © 
 beef, or the blade-bone of a shoulder of mutton, the legs of 
 fowls, turkeys, &c., should be slightly cut all round with a 
 knife, and well rubbed with cayenne and salt, and a teaspoonful 
 of Chili vinegar, or ketchup, or Relish, and broiled pently 
 until hot through and brown. Serve very hot. 
 
 133. Broiled and Devilled Toast.—Toast a round of bread, 
 eut a quarter of an inch thick; mix in a plate one ounce of 
 butter, half a teaspoonful of cayenne, one teaspoonful of mustard, 
 one teaspoonful of Relish, or Sauce; spread it over the toast, 
 and serve yery hot. Broiled kidneys or sausages may be served 
 on it. 
 
 134. Broiled Kidneys. habe he s kidneys should be eut in the 
 middle, so as nearly to divide them, leaving the fat in the middle ; 
 
MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. 55 
 
 run a skewer through them, that they may remain open; broil 
 gently; five minutes for a common size is sufficient. Season 
 with salt and pepper; rub a piece of butter over, and serve. They 
 can be served on toast, or with any sauce. 
 
 Lamb’s, pig’s, calves’, and ox kidneys, may be done the same 
 way, but the two bier will take much longer, and should be 
 better done. You may also egg and bread-crumb them. 
 
 135. Broiled Fowls, Pigeons, §c.—These, if whole, should 
 be cut in down the back, after being drawn and well skewered 
 to keep them so, or beaten flat with the chopper. Season 
 well with pepper and salt; well grease a double gridiron, and 
 place them a sufficient distance from a moderate fire ; turn often. 
 A fowl, if small, will take from twenty-five to thirty minutes; 
 if large, three quarters of an hour; pigeons about ten minutes. 
 Serve either plain, or with any sauce that is liked. They may 
 be egged and bread crumbed. 
 
 FRYING-PAN.—INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Tas useful utensil, which is so much in vogue in all parts of 
 the world, and even for other purposes besides cookery—for I 
 have before me now a letter, written, at the Ovens’ diggings, on 
 the back of a frying-pan, for want of a table; but in your letter you 
 suggest the necessity of paying particular attention to it, as it is 
 the utensil most in vogue in a bachelor’s residence. I cannot but 
 admire your constant devotion to the bachelors: you are always in 
 fear that this unsociable class of individuals should be uncomfortable. 
 For my part, I do-not pity them, and would not give myself the 
 slightest trouble to comfort them, especially after they have passed 
 the first thirty springs of their life. Let them get married, and 
 enjoy the troubles, pleasures, and comforts of matrimony, and have a 
 wife to manage their home, and attend to more manly pursuits than 
 cooking their supper when they get home at night, because the old 
 housekeeper has gone to bed; or lighting the fire when they get up 
 in the morning, because the old dame has a slight touch of lumbago ; 
 and should he require something substantial for his breakfast, and 
 want that utensil of all work, the frying-pan, finds it all dirt and 
 fishy, not having been cleaned since he last dined at home. 
 
 _ No, my dear Eloise, I assure you I do not feel at all inclined 
 to add to their comforts, though you may do what you like with the 
 following receipts, which are equally as applicable to them, as to the 
 humble abode of the married fraternity. 
 
56 MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. 
 
 You will also find, in these receipts, that the usual complaint of 
 food being greasy by frying, is totally remedied, by sautéing the meat 
 in a small quantity of fat, butter, or oil, which has attained a proper 
 degree of heat, instead of placing it in cold fat and letting it soak 
 while melting. 
 
 I will, in as few words as possible, having my frying-pan in one 
 hand and a rough cloth in the other, with which to wipe it (con- 
 sidering that cleanliness is the first lesson in cookery), initiate you 
 in the art of producing an innumerable number of dishes, which can 
 be made with it, quickly, economically, relishing, and wholesome. But 
 I must first tell you, that the word fry, in the English language, is a 
 mistake; according to the mode in which all objects are cooked 
 which are called fried, it would answer to the French word sauté, 
 or the old English term jfrizzle; but to fry any object, it should be 
 immersed in very hot fat, oil, or butter, as I have carefully detailed to 
 you in our “ Modern Housewife.” To frizzle, sauté, or, as I will 
 now designate it, semi-fry, is to place into the pan any oleaginous 
 substance, so that, when melted, it shall cover the bottom of the pan 
 by about two lines; and, when hot, the article to be cooked shall be 
 piaced therein. ‘To do it to perfection requires a little attention, so 
 that the pan shall never get too hot. It should be perfectly clean— 
 a great deal depends on this. 
 
 I prefer the pan, for many objects, over the gridiron; that is, if 
 the pan is properly used. As regards economy, it is preferable, securing 
 all the fat and gravy, which is often lost when the gridiron is used. 
 
 All the following receipts can be done with this simple batteme de 
 cuisine, equally as well in the cottage as in the palace, or in the 
 bachelor’s chamber as in the rooms of the poor. 
 
 136. 1st Lesson. To Semi-fry Steak.—Having procured a 
 steak about three quarters of an inch thick, and weighing about 
 one pound, and two ounces of fat, place the pan on the fire, with 
 one ounce of butter or fat; let it remain until the fat is melted, 
 and rather hot; take hold of the steak at one end by a fork, and 
 dip it in the pan, so that one side is covered with fat; then 
 turn the other side in it, and let it remain for two or three 
 minutes, according to the heat of the fire; then turn it: it will 
 take about ten or twelve minutes, and require to be turned on 
 each side three times, taking care that the pan is not too hot, or 
 it will burn the gravy, and perhaps the meat, and thus lose all 
 the nutriment; in fact, the pan should never be left, but care- 
 fully watched; on this depends the advantages of this style and 
 mode of cookery. If the object is not turned often, it will be 
 noticed that the gravy will come out on the upper surface of the 
 meat, which, when turning over, will go into the pan and be 
 lost, instead of remaining in the meat. Season with a tea- 
 
MEAT IN FPRYING-PAN, bv 
 
 spoonful of salt anda quarter of pepper; then feel with the finger 
 that it is done, remove it with a fork, inserted in the fat, and 
 _ serve very hot. 
 
 So much for the first lesson, the details of which must be 
 learnt, as it will then simplify every other receipt. 
 
 137. 2nd Lesson—Remember that the thickness is never to 
 exceed one inch, nor be less than halt’ an inch, and to be as 
 near as possible the same thickness all over. A good housewife 
 will object to one cut in any other way; but if it cannot be 
 avoided, press it out with the blade of the knife, to give it the 
 proper thickness. When done, wipe the pan clean, and place 
 it on a hook against the wall, with the inside of the pan nearest 
 the wall, to prevent the dust getting in. 
 
 Now, dear Eloise, you will perhaps say that the foregoing lessons 
 are too long for so simple a thing as a steak, as everybody think 
 themselves capable of cooking it without tuition, but having now 
 given these directions, I hope those who fancy they can cook without 
 learning will know better for the future, and pay a little attention 
 to so important a subject. 
 
 138.—The above lesson may be varied by adding to the pan, 
 _with the seasoning, a few chopped onions, or eschalots, parsley, 
 
 mushrooms, pickles,semi-fried at the sametime or after,and poured 
 over the steak; or when the steak is dished up, a little butter, 
 or chopped parsley and butter, or two spoonfuls of either Relish, 
 Harvey’s, or any other good sauce that may be handy. Pour 
 the fat of the steak into a basin for future use. Some fried 
 potatoes may be served with it, or the following additions made: 
 after the steak is done, slice a quarter of a pound of onions to 
 each pound of steak, and a little more fat; fry quickly, and when 
 brown place round the steak ; pour the gravy over. 
 
 Some mushrooms, if honed whole, if large, sliced, put in the 
 pan and fried, are excellent. 
 
 Two tablespoonfuls of mixed pickle, put into the pan after the 
 steak is removed, fried a little, then add two tablespoonfuls of the 
 liquor and two of water ; when on the point of boiling pour over 
 the steak. The same may be done with pickled walnuts and 
 gherkins, or two ounces of tavern-keepers’ butter rubbed over, 
 (see No. 427,) or half a pint of oyster sauce, or mussel sauce, or 
 horseradish sauce; or a little flour dredged over the steak, and a 
 little water added in the pan, when the steak is done, and a little 
 
 colouring or ketchup, and then poured over the steak. 
 
Dg 
 
 e ye 
 68 MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. 
 
 oS i r " 
 4 : as 
 
 These receipts can be continued and multiplied to any extent, 
 entirely depending on the taste of the cook, 
 
 _ A steak may first be dipped in flour, and well shook; then, 
 when you have semi-fried your meat, it will have acquired a 
 nice brown; this may also be applied to veal cutlets, pork and 
 mutton chops, poultry and game. 
 
 139. Another Way.—When your steak is partly done, 
 dredge both sides over with a spoonful of flour, dish up, pour 
 out the fat, put a gill of water in the pan; let it simmer a few 
 minutes,—it will make a nice thick sauce. 
 
 1394. Beefsteak, with Semi-fried Potatoes.—Rub and semi- 
 fry your steak, adding thin slices of potatoes, letting them lie 
 in the pan while the steak is doing; turn them as often as you 
 do the steak, serve round with gravy, to make which pour half 
 a gill of water in the pan under the steak—the moisture of the 
 potatoes will cause some of the gravy to come out of the meat, 
 but it will be found very good. 
 
 140. A Series of Lessons how to Semi-fry Chops of all kinds. 
 Lesson 1.—First select your mutton. Let it not be too fat; if it is, 
 eut some off. Always observe that a mutton chop should be one third 
 fat, and of the same thickness throughout. Have them cut from the 
 loin, let them be about an inch in thickness. Very little attention 
 will accomplish this important point; for I feel convinced, Eloise, that 
 an ill-eut chop never can be but ill-cooked; you can always equalize 
 them by beating them out with a chopper. Haye your frying-pan very 
 
 - elean; put in an ounce of butter, or, if you like, dripping or lard ; 
 let it get rather hot. As soon as it begins to smoke, take your chop 
 with a fork, by the small end, and dip it in the fat for half a minute; 
 then turn it, let it semi-fry for about three minutes, season the upper- 
 most side with a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, and half that quantity 
 of pepper; then turn it, and serve the other side the same way. You 
 may then turn it several times while doing, as that equalizes the 
 cooking, as well as carbonizes the meat. Ten minutes will cook it to 
 perfection, and less, if thinner. 
 
 Second Lesson.—If the above directions are properly attended 
 to, the chop will present the appearance of a rich brown colour, 
 and the fat a gold colour, cutting extremely white and light, while 
 the meat will look darkish, and give a strong gravy which will 
 almost stick to the knife, instead of running on the plate and par- 
 taking of a watery red colour, as is the case when a chop is slowly 
 and badly cooked. This last sort of gravy is called by some people 
 rich, which I am sure, my dear, you will find to be a great mistake ; 
 
— ee ee ere 
 
 MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. 59 . 
 
 though the badly-cooked chop will probably weigh more than the 
 other, from not having lost so much of its substance, yet it will not 
 possess half the nutriment and flavour of a chop well done. The 
 above quantity of seasoning will do for a chop weighing about a 
 quarter of a pound, and would, I may safely say, suit the palate of 
 fifteen persons out of twenty; therefore I hope it will diminish the 
 load of salt and pepper every Englishman piles on his plate, previous 
 to tasting the article of food placed before him. The cook ought to 
 season for the guest, not the guest for the cook. 
 
 141. Third Lesson.—When you can thoroughly cook a chop 
 according to the first lesson, it materially simplifies the second, which 
 is thus done:—Get a chop and cook it as above, but to vary the 
 flavour, when half cooked, sprinkle over it a little chopped chives, or 
 eschalots, or onions, spice, or aromatic herbs; or when done, rub both 
 sides of the chop lightly with a clove of peeled garlic, or a piece of 
 fresh or maitre d’hétel butter. These remarks are applicable to 
 all kinds of semi-fried meat. 
 
 The Fourth Lesson is still more simplified, my dear Eloise, namely, 
 cook your chop plainly, as before directed, eat it yourself, and let me 
 know how you relished it. 
 
 Chops from the neck, called cutlets, are done in this manner. Pork, 
 veal, and ham chops require the same style of seasoning and cooking. 
 A slow fire is preferable to a sharp one for the above mentioned chops, 
 which, when semi-fried, will take a gold colour, as above-mentioned. 
 You may always ascertain when the chop is done by pressing your 
 finger on the thick part; if the flesh is firm and well set on both 
 sides, it is done and ready to serve. Half a pint of chopped pickled 
 red cabbage put in the pan after the chop is done and warmed through | 
 will be found very relishing, especially for pork cutlets. 
 
 142. Mutton Cutlets.—The chop from the neck is the best to 
 semi-fry ; they should be nicely cut, and the bone at the thick 
 part removed, as it prevents the meat from doing; then beat up. 
 the yolk and white of an egg, with a pinch of salt; have 
 ready some bread-crumbs, made from stale bread, and sifted, 
 (this may always be kept ready in a canister); beat out the 
 cutlets with a small chopper, dip them or rub them with a 
 brush with the egg, place some of the bread-crumbs on a plate, 
 and lay the cutlet on them; press them; serve both sides the 
 same, and shake off all ee crumbs; have the fat in the 
 pan quite hot, lay them in it; when nicely browned on one 
 side, turn them over, and do the other side the same; take them 
 out, lay them on a cloth, so that no fat remains; serve with any 
 made sauce. Jor bread-crumb, see No. 432 4 
 
TON LY eT PENCE OR eo, COE, ee See eee eS ask heey 
 
 60 MEAT IN FRYING-PAN, 
 
 143. Veal Cutlets should be cut round, about three inches in 
 diameter, and a quarter of an inch thick, done very quickly. 
 
 144. These may all be rubbed previous to bread-crumbing, 
 with either onion or eschalot; by rubbing them there will be 
 no perceptible taste, but a pungent flavour; these can be served 
 with various made sauces, and stewed spinach, greens, peas, and 
 anything, according to taste, remembering that that which 
 pleases the eye will prove agreeable to the palate. 
 
 145. Pork Chops, semi-fried, without bread-crumbs, are done 
 as the mutton chops ; they will require more time, and should be 
 served with a mustard or sharp sauce. 
 
 Mutton, veal, pork, and lamb, all look inviting, and are all 
 equally good, when bread-crumbed and semi-fried, as above. 
 
 146. 1st Lesson. Sausages and Kidneys, Semi-fried.—Peel 
 and chop fine about four small onions, put one ounceof butter in the 
 frying-pan, two ounces of bacon cut in slices, and a tablespoonful 
 of chopped onions ; fry for five minutes, stirring it with a spoon ; 
 cut half a pound of sausages in half lengthways, place them in 
 the pan, then cut an ox kidney into thin slices, omitting the 
 hard part; put it in the centre of the pan, season with half a 
 teaspoonful of salt and one saltspoonful of pepper; fry gently 
 for five minutes, turning them. ‘Take care they are not done 
 too much, or they will be hard; throw a teaspoonful of flavour 
 over them, add one quartern of water; simmer two minutes ; 
 dish with kidneys in the middle and sausages round. Dripping, 
 lard, or oil, may be used instead of butter, and a few small 
 mushrooms is an improvement. 
 
 2nd Lesson. Kidneys alone.—Slice thin an ox kidney, put 
 two ounces of butter into a frying-pan; when hot, add two 
 ounces of bacon, cut in thin dice, and the kidney; fry for five 
 minutes, if over a brisk fire; longer, if over a slow fire; add a 
 teaspoonful of flour, salt, and pepper, moisten with half a pint of 
 water, simmer a few minutes, stir round, and serve with or 
 without crisp toasted bread round it: a little lemon is an 
 improvement. | 
 
 3rd Lesson. Mutton Kidneys, with Ale Sauce.—Cut six 
 kidneys in two, remove the outer skin, cut them into slices; put 
 two ounces of butter into a frying-pan; when very hot, put in 
 the kidneys, and stir continually for about five minutes; sprinkle 
 
MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. 61. 
 over a teaspoonful of flour, a little salt and pepper, and, if 
 handy, a little parsley chopped fine; moisten with a little water 
 and four tablespoonfuls of ale; thus it forms a thickish sauce. 
 Lemon is an improvement, or wine in the place of ale, or 
 a little vinegar, if preferred. 
 
 147. Calves’ Liver, Semi-fried.—Cut the liver a quarter of 
 an inch thick, the bacon the same, mix in a plate a tablespoonful 
 of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and the same of pepper, dip the 
 liver into it; have ready the frying-pan, with sufficient fat or 
 dripping, quite clear, as much as will cover the bottom of the 
 pan a quarter of an inch; when very hot (which try as before 
 directed for fish), put in the liver and bacon; the bacon will be 
 done first, which remove; the liver must be turned in five minutes; 
 when it is done remove it into a dish, and serve. 
 
 148. Another Way.—Take away nearly all the fat, then put in 
 the pan a teaspoonful of chopped onions, the same of flour, stir till. 
 brown, then add some salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of vinegar, 
 and a sinall teacupful of water, a little curry powder, if handy; mix 
 well together, and pour over the liver. Calves’ Hearts, as well 
 as pig’s and sheep’s, &c. &c., may be done like liver, cut iu 
 slices, with the exception, that either some currant-jelly, port 
 wine, or a little ale or porter, or ketchup, may be added to 
 the sauce; it is also good bread-crumbed. 
 
 149. Lambs’ Fry is sometimes to be had for a trifle; you 
 can purchase it from about threepence or fourpence per pound; 
 wash it in cold water; for every pound put a quart of water; put 
 them in it for ten minutes to set; take them out, lay them on a 
 cloth; then put in a frying-pan two ounces of butter or dripping, 
 letting it get hot, then dip each piece of the fry in the follow- 
 ing mixture, and put in the pan, and fry gently: break an egg, 
 beat it well, add a teaspoonful of flour, which mix smooth, half 
 a wineglass of either milk or water, a little salt and pepper may 
 be put in this delicate batter. When your fry has obtained a 
 nice gold colour, turn it; when done, season with a teaspoonful 
 of salt, and a quarter of pepper, to every pound of fry. <A few 
 chopped onions put in the pan with the meat is very nice, or a 
 few mushrooms. 
 
 Pigs’ chitlings, done as above, will be found very good, espe- 
 
 cially if fried with onions; buy them ready cleaned, then before 
 
. PRL 2 are. ae, 
 Tee wi rays 
 
 62 MEAT IN FRYING-PAN, 
 
 you fry them let them simmer in a saucepan, in salt and water 
 ‘ for thirty minutes, or till tender ; drain them, and fry as above. 
 Tripe may also be done the same. 
 
 FOWLS. 
 
 150.—THE motive of semi-frying food is to have it done quickly ; 
 therefore, to fry a whole fowl, or even half, is useless, as it could be 
 cooked in a different. way in the same time; but to semi-fry a fowl 
 with the object of having it quickly placed on the table, in order to 
 satisfy a good, and perhaps fastidious, appetite, it should be done in a 
 similar way to that practised in Egypt some 3000 years since, and 
 of late years for the great Napoleon—that is, cooked in oil. 
 
 In France this dish is called “ Poulet ala Marengo.” It is related 
 that the great conqueror, after having gained that celebrated victory, 
 eat three small chickens at one meal done in this way, and his 
 appetite and taste was so good, and he approved of them so highly, 
 that he desired that they might always be served in the same way 
 during the campaign. 
 
 151.—The fowl should be divided thus ; if just killed it should 
 be plucked and drawn as quick as possible, or cooked whilst still 
 warm; it will then be tender; if it has been long killed, the 
 joints and pieces should be well beaten with a piece of wood, not 
 to break the skin and bones, but to loosen the sinews. The legs 
 should be first removed, then the wings, going close up to the 
 breast; then cut the belly in two; by this there are eight pieces. 
 They should be seasoned with pepper and salt; for want of oil, 
 one ounce of either butter, fat, or dripping should be put in the 
 pan. If a young fowl, it will take from twelve to fifteen minutes ; 
 the pieces should be turned several times ; when done serve plain, 
 or put into the fat a glass of wine, some vinegar, or ketchup ; 
 for want of wine add a little vinegar; give it a boil up till half 
 reduced ; season and pour into the dish, and serve. A few fried 
 mushrooms are excellent with it; or six oysters, with their 
 liquor, or tomata sauce, &c. 
 
 If the fowl is preferred to be done whole, then split it down the 
 back, truss it the same as for broiling ; beat it flat, put two ounces 
 of oil into the pan, lay in the fowl, season it; it must be done 
 gently, and will take half an hour, if young, but of a good size; 
 if rather an old bird, it will take one third more than the above 
 time. 
 
 152. Pigeons, whole, should be cut down the back the same as : 
 
 i 
 
il el he ae aed 
 
 E : MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. 63 
 
 fowl ‘ cut off the head, the pinions, and feet; season and fry with 
 an ounce of oil or fat. They will take ten minutes. 
 
 153. Rabbits—Cut them in pieces, remove all superfluous 
 bones, beat each piece flat, season them with pepper and salt, 
 place the pan on the fire with two ounces of fat, put in it two 
 onions, sliced, and then the rabbit ; they will take twenty minutes 
 er more to do, gently; remove the pieces of rabbit; have the 
 liver, heart, and brains chopped up with a little parsley, and fry 
 with the remaining fat ; when done pour off part of the fat; add 
 a gill of water, season it; give ita boil, and pour over the rabbit. 
 A little curry may be added, and boiled rice, served separate. 
 
 154. Poultry of all kinds, Devilled—These are best made 
 by poultry previously cooked. The proper way is to do them 
 with the gridiron, but in case the fire is in that state that they 
 cannot be broiled, and the everlasting frying-pan must be made 
 use of, then prepare them as already described for broiling. . 
 Place in the pan one ounce only of butter, and fry gently until 
 hot through. A slight improvement may be made in using the 
 frying-pan ; it is to rub the bottom with garlic or eschalot before 
 placing the fat in, frymg some onions at the same time. A 
 little bacon can also be fried with it. 
 
 CURIOUS EFFECTS OF IMAGINATION. 
 
 Here, Eloise, I again discuss a subject about which, some little 
 time since, we had an argument; but you will observe that the topic 
 is treated in quite a different manner, and you must use your own 
 discretion whether you will introduce ox liver or not. I can only say 
 that I and three friends dined off it yesterday, and they all declared 
 it excellent. I assure you I am not jesting, they thought they were 
 eating calves’ liver, and praised the way it was cooked. 
 
 Later in the day I put on a very long face, and asked one of them, 
 a cousin of mine, if he felt well, as the cook had made a great mistake 
 in preparing the dinner? He, knowing my mania for experiments, 
 turned very pale, and said, “No! No!” “Do not be frightened, 
 for it is nothing very bad; she used ox liver instead of calves’.” The 
 poor fellow was greatly relieved, for he thought himself poisoned; but 
 still the idea of having eaten of the food which is generally given to 
 that domesticated and homely animal, pussy, made him uncomfort- 
 able all through the evening. 
 
 - This is the effect of the imagination, as we have sufficient proofs, 
 
64 MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. - 
 
 in China, France, and elsewhere, that many objects which we detest 
 are considered the greatest luxuries. 
 
 A curious incident of the force of imagination occurred some years 
 since at a town not a hundred miles from Leicester. A candidate 
 for the borough, as M.P., a noble lord, having been unsuccessful, his 
 supporters proposed giving him a dinner to console him for his loss ; 
 he, however, could not attend, but sent them a raised pie of game, 
 about the size of a small carriage wheel, which was partaken of by his 
 supporters with great gusto. A few days after a letter arrived to 
 the chairman, as if from the noble lord, stating that he was glad they 
 liked the pie, as he had now got his revenge for their having deceived 
 him in the election—that the pie was composed of polecats, dogs, 
 rats, &c. &c. This letter was shown to the members of the committee ; 
 and it soon got noised about, and although four days had elapsed, 
 there was hardly a person that had partaken of it who was not ill. 
 The noble lord having left that part of the country, it was some days 
 before the hoax was found out. 
 
 155. lst Lesson. New Style of Dressing Liver in Frying- 
 pan.—I dressed it thus: take about two pounds of ox liver; 
 remove the sinew and veins, cut it into long slices, half an inch 
 thick, put in two ounces of dripping in pan; when hot put in 
 three pieces at a time of liver until set; cut a quarter of a pound 
 of bacon in small dice, fry in fat, cut wp the liver in. small 
 dice, add it to the bacon, then add a tablespoonful of chopped 
 onions, the same of parsley, the same of flour, a teaspoonful of salt 
 and half of pepper, stir round, and then add half a pint of water, 
 or a little more if the flour is strong, till it forms a nice thickish 
 sauce; put all into a dish, cover over with bread-crumbs, put a 
 little fat over, and place in the oven or before the fire for twenty 
 minutes; brown it over with a hot shovel, and serve. A few 
 poached eges put on the top will give it a nice appearance, and 
 render it more nourishing. Curry may be used. 
 
 156. Minced Meat.—The remains of any kind of cooked meat 
 will be found very good; the meat having been previously done 
 will only require mincing. Cut in thin slices about one pound 
 of meat, put on a dish, sprinkle over about a teaspoonful of salt, 
 third ditto of pepper, one of flour, mix well, put in your frying- 
 pan, add half a pint of water, and a drop of colouring, if handy, 
 put on the fire, stir when it commences to boil, then place it 
 on the hob, let it simmer ten minutes, and serve. 
 
 N.B.—This is very plain, as you see, and can be made in any 
 
Rae a ee ig cera ~~) wh ™ a eas ee ai Gol rey: ‘i r 
 tt ao, , , 
 
 MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. 65 
 
 zs pan or iron pot, but I place it here only for those who possess a 
 -frying-pan. 
 
 You may now vary this Bessoritcal dish in twenty different 
 ways; prepare always your meat, flour, salt, and pepper, as 
 above; you may add a teaspoonful of chopped herbs, such as 
 onion, chives, or parsley, or a tablespoonful of sharp pickles, or 
 made sauce, a little cayenne, spices, wine, or vinegar, may also be 
 used, and served on toast if approved of. 
 
 157. Minced Veal.— Any remains of roast veal may be 
 quickly dressed to good advantage, as follows, by the aid of the 
 frying-pan :—Cut all the meat and fat off the joint into small 
 dice ; calculate the amount of fat you put with the lean, say three 
 ounces for every pound; when cut put a pound of it ona dish, 
 add to it a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, two spoonfuls 
 of flour, and a chopped onion; put in the pan half a pint 
 of water to boil, two teaspoonfuls of colouring; then put the 
 meat in, stir it, let it simmer gently for twenty minutes, and 
 serve on toast; poached eggs on it are very good; or put the 
 mince into a tin pan, bread- erumb over, drop a little butter or 
 dripping over, then put it in the oven, or before the fire to 
 brown. The mince may be made white by using milk instead 
 of water and colouring. 
 
 158, New Way of Mincing Meat.—Cut in small dice’ one 
 pound of either raw beef, mutton, pork, or veal, flesh and fat in 
 proportion ; put in the pan two ounces of butter or dripping; 
 when hot, add the meat, stir it occasionally, and season it with 
 two small teaspoonfuls of salt, a little spice, half one of pepper. 
 When the meat is just set, put in a teaspoonful of flour, half a 
 pint of water; let it simmer twenty minutes, or, if tough, a 
 little. longer, adding a gill more water, and serve; a little 
 eschalot, chives, or onions, chopped, may be added. If veal, lamb, 
 or pork, the sauce may be kept white, and milk may be used; if 
 beef or mutton, the sauce ought to be brown, and three teaspoon- 
 fuls of colouring added; the juice of a lemon, or a drop of 
 vinegar, is very good with it; ox kidneys may be done the 
 same way. ‘This will make a good curry i the addition of 
 half a teaspoonful of that article. 
 
 158 4. Simplified way of Hashing all kinds of Cooked 
 Meat—Cut a pound of meat, except salted meat, previously 
 | B 
 
 vO A A f 
 : Te 4 pte ‘ 
 5 OO aT 
 
66 MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. 
 
 cooked, into thin slices, put it on a dish, add to it one teaspoon 
 ful of flour, one and a half of salt, half a one of pepper, mixing all 
 together well, then put all in the frying-pan, adding half a pint 
 of cold water; set it on the fire; let it remain there until it has 
 simmered ten minutes; take up, and serve. 
 
 2nd Lesson. Proceed as above, but vary flavour with either 
 of the following ingredients: use either a teaspoonful of chopped 
 onions, eschalot, parsley, a few mushrooms, pickles, sauce, or 
 ketchup. 
 - The above can be done in either black pot, iron saucepan, or 
 frying-pan. 
 
 159. All the above can be made as curries, and served with 
 rice, by first frying one onion, cut up small, and half a large 
 baking-apple, also cut small; then add the meat, give it a fry, 
 mix with half a pint of water, one teaspoonful of good curry 
 powder, pour it over the meat, give it a simmer for ten 
 minutes, and serve with boiled rice separate. 
 
 160, Bubble and Squeak.—Any remains of salt beef or pork 
 may be dressed in this old, but good and economical fashion. 
 Cut your meat, when cold, in thin slices, to the weight of about 
 a pound, including, if possible, from two to three ounces of fat; 
 then take one ‘or two Savoy cabbages, according to size, which, 
 when boiled and chopped, ought to weigh about two pounds; cut 
 each cabbage in four, throw afew of the green outside leaves away, 
 as likewise the stalk ; put about a gallon of water in an iron sauce- — 
 pan; when boiling add your cabbage, and let it remain about 
 twenty minutes, or until tender ; drain them well, and chop them 
 up rather fine; then add three ounces of either butter or dripping 
 in the frying-pan, which put on the fire; when hot put in your 
 slices. of meat, which semi-fry of a nice brownish colour, on 
 both sides; take them out, put them on a dish, keep them 
 warm ; then put the cabbage in the pan with the fat, add a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, the same quantity of pepper; stir round till hot 
 throughout; put on the dish, lay the meat over, and serve; if no 
 cabbage, any green will do, first boiled, drained, chopped, and 
 fried. Boiled carrots and turnips, previously cooked and chopped, 
 may be added to the cabbage. 
 
 161. Fritters of Meat, Poultry, Fish, and Fruits.—The fol- 
 
MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. 67 
 
 lowing is thirty receipts in one:—Put a pound of the crumb of 
 bread to soak in cold water, take the same quantity of any kind 
 of boiled or roasted meat, a little fat, which chop in dice 
 rather fine, press the water out of the bread; put in the pan 
 two ounces of butter, lard, or dripping, with two teaspoonfuls of 
 chopped onions, fry two minutes, add the bread, stir with a 
 wooden spoon until rather dry, then add the meat, season with 
 a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, if 
 handy ; stir till quite hot; then add two eggs, one at a time, mix 
 very quick, and pour on dish to cool. 
 
 Then roll it into the shape of small eggs,.then in flour, 
 egg them and bread-crumb, fry (as No. 72) a nice yellow colour; 
 serve plain, or with any sharp or any other sauce you fancy. 
 
 162. Innumerable are the receipts that can be made in this 
 way ; in fact, from everything that is eatable, and at any season of 
 the year,—from the remains of meat, poultry, game, fish; 
 vegetables, using the same amount of seasoning. Bread soaked 
 in milk is better. 
 
 163. The same can be done with chopped dried fruits, and 
 preserved fruits, using a quarter of a pound more bread; fry, and | 
 sift powdered sugar and cinnamon over. Cream may be used 
 for fruits or curds. 
 
 They may also be fried in batter, like fritters, instead of bread- 
 crumbs. 
 
 There is no end to what may be done with these riots: 
 They may be fried, and when cold put between paste, cut into 
 nice pieces of any shape, and baked. They can be ornamented, 
 and made worthy the table of the greatest epicure, if the bread 
 be soaked in cream, and spirits or liquor introduced in them. 
 
 164. Tripe, Iyons fashion.—Boil two pounds of tripe ;. when 
 done, drain it, dry with a cloth, cut it in pieces about an inch 
 square, put in the pan four ounces of butter, four middling-sized 
 onions cut in slices, fry for a few minutes, then add the ttipe, stir 
 them every four minutes for about a quarter of an hour, then put 
 in a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, two tablespoonfuls 
 _ Of vinegar, mixed well, and it will be ready for serving. 
 
 Vermicelli, boiled in the water that the tripe has been 
 boiled in, makes good soup. Rice or bread is nice done this 
 __ way. The addition of a teaspoonful Gr curry, one spoonful of 
 F 2 
 
68 MEAT IN FRYING-PAN, 
 
 flour, and half a pint of broth or water, will make a good 
 turry with the tripe. 
 
 165. A Fried Toad in the Hole.—Take a steak of the size 
 required, not less in thickness than what I have before stated, 
 and partly fry on both sides; have ready a pint of second-class 
 batter, as No. 470; remove the steak for a minute, add more fat 
 in the pan, put in the batter when it is beginning to become as 
 thick as paste, place the steak in the middle, raise the frying-pan 
 a sufficient height from the fire: on a trivet, so as to cook gently ; 
 turn it over; or put the pan in the oven; when well set it is 
 done; serve ona dish, the bottom uppermost. 
 
 165 a. Tripe Sautéd.—Have the tripe already boiled tender ; 
 put into the pan two ounces of fat, with two onions in slices; 
 fry them ; when brown add the tripe, which must be dry; when: 
 they get a little brown add salt, pepper, a pint of second-class 
 batter, No. 470; proceed as above. 
 
 The same Curried.—Proceed as above; add one teaspoonful 
 of the curry powder instead of the vinegar. 
 
 The same with Pickle.—Proceed as above; adding piccalilly, 
 or gherkins cut small. 
 
 166. The Remains of other kinds of Cold Roast Meats 
 may be done in this way, and, when eggs are cheap, poach half- 
 a-dozen, which put on the top. 
 
 167. The Remains of Fish, previously cooked, are very good 
 done in this way. A piece of conger eel or ling, about four inches 
 thick, partly boiled in salt water with onions and parsley, and 
 boned, will make a very economical and also a Lenten dish. 
 
 168. Veal or Mutton, cut into pieces, about two inches 
 square, and thin, may be fried and added to the batter. 
 
 169. Beef Collops, Fried.—Take apiece of steak, part and cut 
 thin into pieces of about two inches square, let it be free from 
 sinews, have the frying-pan well greased, add the pieces of meat, 
 do them quickly, sprinkle salt, pepper, and a little flour over 
 them whilst doing; and when nearly done add any flavour you — 
 like, either of curry, pickles, tomato, or a little vinegar. Serve 
 wery hot. 
 
SOYER’S BAKING STEWING-PAN, 69 
 
 170. Veal Cutlets for the Aged.—Cut one pound of veal in 
 eight or ten pieces; season with a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of 
 pepper, little chopped parsley; then take each piece separate, 
 and with the back of the knife beat them well till nearly in 
 a pulp; give them the shape of cutlets with a knife; egg and 
 bread-crumb; beat them nice and smooth, put two ounces of 
 lard in the frying-pan ; when rather hot, fry a nice colour; serve 
 plain, or with sharp sauce, No. 411. These may be done, as a 
 general dish, by adding a little fried bacon and chopped onions 
 in the frying-pan. They are extremely tender and full of gravy 
 
 Beef, mutton, and lamb, may be done the same way. Sausage- 
 meat of beef or pork may be here introduced, shaped and fried 
 the same, 
 
 INTRODUCTION TO BAKING STEW-PAN. 
 
 My prEar Exortsz,—In some of my former letters, I have stated that 
 the principal art of cookery consists in knowing the exact time each 
 object requires to be subjected to the action of the fire; whether it 
 be direct, or by the assistance of either roasting, frying, baking, or 
 boiling. Large quantities of food may be treated in such a manner, 
 that no more nutriment shall be obtained than by smaller quantities ; 
 but to learn this requires practice and attention, more than those to 
 whom we wish to dedicate these letters can probably give. 
 
 I have been thinking in what way we could obviate the present 
 loss, which either ascends the chimney to disperse in thin air, or 
 pervades the apartments of the house to the inconvenience of its 
 inmates. 
 
 I am the more particularly led to the consideration of this subject 
 from having, in my rambles, entered a cottage, the other day, from 
 which an odour proceeded, as if something more than ordinary cookery 
 was going on, when I found a large pot of a kind of Irish stew boiling 
 away on the fire, and the fragrance of the vegetables and meat dis- 
 persed over the apartment. Entering into conversation with the 
 occupant, whom I found to be the wife of a carpenter on the adjoining 
 estate, and who was preparing the table for six persons to dine, I 
 soon found she had no mean opinion of her abilities in cooking. I 
 remonstrated with her on the waste she was making, and at once 
 took up a plate, and held it over the pot, so as to intercept the 
 steam, when it was shortly covered by condensed steam and small 
 particles ot fibrine, which I convinced her would be much better 
 used in giving nutriment to her family than in mingling with the 
 soot in the chimney. 
 
€ 
 
 rt es SOYER’S BAKING STEWING-PAN. 
 
 -In our superior kitchens there may be plenty of means and utensils 
 to prevent a part of this evii; but in the cottage, the abode of the 
 labourer, whose stock of kitchen utensils consists of an iron pot, 
 frying-pan, and gridiron, these kind of stews could not be done with- 
 out great waste and difficulty. JI have therefore invented a new and 
 simple baking stew-pan, by which all the nutriment and flavour of 
 
 the various ingredients placed in it are preserved. In order that. 
 
 you may understand it, I will give you a drawing and description 
 of it, feeling confident it will be useful to the million. (See appendix 
 at the end of book.) 
 
 It has, likewise, one great adyantage over the old method of 
 boiling or stewing, namely, that it gives hardly any trouble in 
 making, retains all the nutriment, cooks in one-third less the time 
 taken by the usual way, and there is not a part of any beast, such as 
 mutton, lamb, beef, pork, veal, or fish, however tough, that may not 
 be cooked tender by this pan. Let whatever you cook in it be sweet, 
 you may, by using this pan and the following receipts, make delicious 
 dishes of fish, flesh, or vegetables; moreover, food prepared in this 
 way will keep much longer than if dressed another way, and must 
 consequently facilitate the way of cooking for a large family, as you 
 can do enough food at once to last for several meals, which you must 
 admit will save an immense deal of time. 
 
 This modest pan, as you must perceive, will concentrate all the 
 nutriment and aroma created by any kind of food placed in it; and 
 the object I have in putting a lock and key on it, is to prevent any 
 person raising the lid while cooking, as by so doing the best part of 
 the flavour would immediately escape. 
 
 _ It is so constructed that it may be hung over the fire, or placed on 
 the hob, or steamed or boiled in a stewpan (as you would a pudding 
 boiled in a basin), or in a cottage or baker’s oven. | 
 
 You must agree, my excellent friend, that I have hitherto done all 
 
 n my power to simplify and economize the food partaken of by the 
 larger part of the people of this country, who, I am sorry to say, are 
 much behind their continental neighbours in the art of cookery, 
 though possessing the best kind ‘of food, and certain I am that huge 
 mountains might be erected with the food daily and hourly wasted, 
 even at the doors of the poor.* 
 
 Is it possible, that in a country where the science of political 
 economy has made such progress, that such men as Jeremy Bentham 
 and others have written volumes to benefit their fellow men, and yet 
 
 -_—— — 
 
 * While on my Governmental mission through Ireland, in the year 
 of the famine, 1847, the following conversation took place between 
 Lord Bessborough, then Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, and myself, after 
 my return from visiting the interior of the country :— 
 
 ue 
 
Soe ire 
 
 SOYER’S BAKING STEWING-PAN, Li 
 
 never ar given one word on that science which would soleus 
 
 increase the food partaken of by all classes of society ! 
 _ Now that I have explained to you my new method of cookery, you 
 must try the following receipts, and then you will find my assertion 
 
 ‘to be correct. 
 
 171. Beef-steak in Baking Pan. First Lesson-—Take two 
 pounds of beef steak, which cut in pieces the size of walnuts, but 
 only half an inch thick ; peel two pounds of potatoes, cut in slices 
 a quarter of an inch thick, two middling-sized onions sliced ; mix 
 two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper. 
 
 Then lay five or six slices of potatoes on the bottom of the pan, 
 season them, then add some pieces of beef; season again, then 
 potatoes and onions, then beef, until the pan is full, potatoes on 
 
 * In an interview granted by his excellency, his lordship asked me 
 if I could account for the generality of the people being so poor; 
 when I replied, ‘ Hasily, my lord: why they actually manure the 
 land with gold to reap copper.” ‘How do you make that out?’ 
 was his excellency’s inquiry. ‘Why, my lord, they waste tons of 
 good fish on the ground to grow a few potatoes.’ ‘In your opinion, 
 why do they do it?’ ‘Why, my lord? Because they know how to 
 cook potatoes to perfection, and are totally ignorant of the way to — 
 cook fish.” ‘ Well, I believe you are right,’ said his lordship; ‘but 
 how could the evil be remedied?’ ‘Kasily,? I replied. ‘I would. 
 first show them how to cook their food, no matter how simple such 
 food might be, and prove to them that the maize, or American 
 flour, now so much in use, if properly prepared, would be a blessing 
 instead of a curse; also the necessity of using with their food - 
 other vegetables besides potatoes, as well as instruct them in several 
 plain ways of cooking fish, which could be had in abundance. all the 
 year round, at a very cheap rate; it would, at the same time, give 
 employment on the coast to thousands of indolent people, as well as 
 circulate an immense deal of money in the interior of the country, 
 and much improve the condition of these poor wretched beings who 
 only seem to have been born to live between poverty and starvation, 
 
 “My plan would be to have public lecturers appointed, whose duty 
 it should be to go round as often as the agricultural lecturer, and 
 teach the people how to cook the food which that person now en- 
 deavours to make them cultivate. 
 
 '€ Until this is done, this country will never emerge out of the 
 semi-barbarous state in which it is at present.” 
 
 His lordship took a note of the conversation, but sudden Hina 
 prevented my ideas being carried out. 
 
TBs es 4 SOYER’S BAKING STEWING-PAN. 
 
 the top, seasoning each time ; pour three quarters of a pint of water, 
 .ock the lid, put in your oven, or send to the baker’s, for one 
 nour and a half; when done shake the pot gently, that the gravy 
 may mix with the potatoes and onions, and form a nice thick 
 sauce. Skirt or any other part of beef is excellent done thus. 
 
 we ORR RLS 
 
 Observe, Eloise, that this is the plain foundation of every receipt 
 which I am going to send you, on that simple and effective style of 
 cookery. I have omitted all seasoning but salt and pepper ; if onions 
 are an objection omit them; therefore take this as a guide for all 
 kinds of meat, poultry, and even fish, which are very good done in 
 this way. . 
 
 172. Another variety may be made, which gives a change; 
 this is, to mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a little chopped 
 suet, a little salt, a gill of water, to form a paste; roll it out to 
 cover the meat, so that it fits to the sides of the pan; then put 
 the cover on as usual, and bake. A little dripping will do for 
 the paste. 
 
 You have often reproached me of liking to give varieties of season- 
 ing; in the above it is according to your own heart; but having done 
 so, let me give one according to my own liking, and though you say 
 the majority of people are not fond of savoury cookery, and do rot 
 like any predominant flavour; but I am certain they only require to 
 try it two or three times, and they will like it. 
 
 173.—The variation of seasoning is very slight, to the above 
 add only two onions; four will give it a stronger flavour, and 
 six for those fond of onions. These may be varied by the 
 judicious use of the following spices—either two cloves, or one 
 blade of mace, or six peppercorns, or a teaspoonful of powdered 
 ginger. Or with the herbs, two small bay-leaves, two sprigs of 
 fresh thyme, or some winter savory, or lemon thyme; if dried, 
 a little more should be used; two teaspoonfuls of chopped 
 parsley may be employed. A little celery seed is also very 
 good. Allthese are to be increased in proportion to the size and 
 contents of the pan. 
 
 174. Leg of Beef:i—Take two pounds of the lee—that part 
 which is full of sinew—cut as above, and season the same way ; 
 add a pint of water, and give another hour in the oven: meat 
 without bone is preferable; any part of the beef will do for this 
 receipt. 
 
Ten pee ee 
 ‘ A te f; ichiy, = me 
 Rik 
 
 SOYERS BAKING STEWING-PAN. rg 
 
 Or, instead of cutting the leg or any other part of the beast, 
 the cheek may be put in whole, letting it weigh about four 
 pounds. ‘This process of cooking will make it very palatable 
 and tender; to vary it, the meat may be larded, and a bunch of 
 herbs (No. 460) added, also cloves, nutmeg, mace, or a little 
 garlic. 
 
 175. Beef with Vegetables.—Peel two carrots, two turnips, 
 two onions, cut in pieces, put some vegetables at the bottom, 
 then the meat in centre; season, and cover over with remaining 
 vegetables; add a few cloves, a pint of water, or half ale and 
 half water; put in slow oven for three hours, take off the fat, 
 and serve. Four pounds of any inferior part of beef will eat 
 tender done thus. 
 
 176. Ox Tail—Cut them at the joint, although I prefer 
 them sawed through the piece; have ready some chopped onions 
 and a little herbs; roll each piece in flour, place them carefully 
 in the pan, with some of the onions and seasoning ; add a pint of 
 water, bake three hours, take off the fat, and serve. 
 
 177. Ox Heart and Kidneys.—The heart does not enjoy a 
 very high reputation. I mean not only with the wealthy, but 
 with the laborious part of the population, in consequence of the 
 difficulty experienced in cooking it properly. It is thus generally 
 left on the hands of the butcher, and consequently sold cheap ; 
 but I trust these receipts will occasion a change, and induce them 
 to purchase those provisions which are now despised. 
 
 178.—Wash an ox heart in several waters, cut it in six pieces 
 lengthways, like steak, lay a few slices of potatoes at the bottom 
 of the pan, then a few slices of bacon, then the heart, then bacon 
 again, and then potatoes over all; a few slices of beef suet, 
 instead of the bacon, if none handy; it should be cut thin; 
 season as you fill up, add half a pint of water, bake one hour, 
 and serve. 
 
 179.—If a small heart, buy half an ox kidney, cut out the hard 
 part, and divide it into small pieces, and mix it with the heart; 
 if you can get a cow-heel already boiled, which is the case in 
 large towns, it may be added in pieces, omitting the bone. 
 
 180. Calves’, Sheep's, Pig’s, or Ox Heart, stewed whole. 
 
 4 
 
74 SOYERS BAKING STEWING-PAN. 
 
 Fill a heart, as for roasting, with stuffing, No. 4644. Put in a 
 four quart pan a piece of fat bacon half an inch thick, and on it 
 the heart, the thick part downwards; cut into slices some 
 potatoes, carrots, turnips, and onions, and a piece of bacon cut 
 in dice; season it with three teaspoonfuls of salt and one of 
 pepper: fill up round the heart until the pan is full, put ma 
 pint of water, and bake for two hours. <A teaspoonful of sugar 
 and three of browning may be added. 
 
 181.—Tongues, brains, and liver, ought to be set before 
 putting in the pot. The tongue should be boiled for ten minutes, 
 and then skinned. These may be done in the same way as the 
 preceding. 
 
 182.—But supposing you have all these, and you wish to 
 mix them together, then cut them into thin slices, leaving out 
 the brain; put them on a dish, and for every pound of meat 
 season with one teaspoonful of salt and a quarter ditto of 
 pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of flour; then have one onion and 
 half a pound of potatoes cut in slices to each pound of meat, and 
 place in the pot as before, mixing the brain cut in pieces; add 
 half a pmt of water to each pound of meat; bake according to 
 size. | ; 
 
 Layers of suet pudding may be used instead of potatoes, and 
 cover it with paste. 
 
 183. Good Plain Family Irish Stew.—Take about two 
 pounds of scrag or neck of mutton; divide it into ten pieces, 
 lay them in the pan; cut eight large potatoes and four onions 
 in slices, season with one teaspoonful and a half ef pepper, and 
 three of salt; cover all with water; put it into a slow oven for 
 two hours, then stir it all up well, and dish up in deep dishes. 
 If you add a little more water at the commencement, you can 
 take out when half done, a nice cup of broth, 
 
 The same. simplified—Put in a pan two pounds of meat 
 as before, which lay at the bottom; cover them with eight whole 
 onions, and these with twelve whole potatoes; season as before ; 
 cover over with water, and send to the oven for two hours. 
 
 Almost any part of the sheep can be used for Irish stew. 
 A- gallon pan is required for this and the preceding receipt. 
 
 184, Ox Tongue, Potted and Braized.--I send you this 
 
SOYER'S BAKING STEWING-PAN, =H 
 
 receipt as a bonne bouche, it being a dish worthy a first-class 
 picnic or the race-course. Take a tongue from the pickle, and 
 wash it clean; cut off a part of the rough pieces of the root, 
 put a thick slice of bacon at the bottom of the pan, and 
 over that a pound of lean beefsteak or veal, and then the 
 tongue turned round to fit the pan; have a cow-heel, parboiled 
 and ready boned, place it on the tongue, and cover it with 
 another slice of bacon, and a slice of beef or veal; season with 
 two teaspoonfuls of pepper, a little powdered ginger and cloves, 
 one bay-leaf, one carrot sliced, and two onions sliced ;*add two 
 wineglassfuls of brandy or sherry, four of old ale, and one quart 
 of water; cover well over, and put in a slow oven for three hours, 
 take off the cover, and put a piece of board with a weight onthe 
 top until cold, then the next day turn it out of the pan, which 
 you can do by placing the pan in hot water. But should you 
 wish to use the tongue hot for dinner, take it out, and when 
 done with it, put the remains in and press, as before described, 
 The vegetables may be also pressed in with the meat or served 
 hot round the tongue. 
 
 The remains of pickled ox tongues are very nice, intermixed 
 and placed in a pan, and pressed, when they will turn out lke 
 collared head. A tongue boiled in plain water will take about 
 two hours. 
 
 185. Ox Tongues, Fresh and Pickled.—Put in the pan, as 
 above, add two carrots, four turnips, four cloves, ten small 
 dumplings, (see No. 349,) fill the pan with water, add either a 
 little bay-leaf, thyme, or winter savory; stew in an oven for 
 three hours, trim and dish up with vegetables, and dumplings 
 round, making soup of the broth. For fresh ox tongue, proceed 
 as above, adding three teaspoonfuls of salt. 
 
 186. Veal.—Take two pounds of the leg of veal, or meat from 
 the shoulder, or the neck or breast, in fact any part, cut in pieces ; 
 season it with one teaspoonful and a half of salt, and a half ot 
 pepper, and add a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in slices. 
 To vary the seasoning, use herbs, (No. 460 a.) It will also 
 be very good with some suet pudding, previously boiled in small 
 balls, if you omit either potatoes or stuffing. The pieces of veal 
 should be rolled in flour; add half a pint of water, if with 
 potatoes, and more, if pudding or stuffing; bake one hour and 
 a half, and serve. Mushrooms may be added. 
 
76 SOYER’S BAKING STEWING-PAN, 
 
 187. Purchase six calves’ tails, and after having had them 
 washed, cut them about two inches in length, and cook them 
 as above, with the addition of more vegetables, as carrots, 
 turnips, &c. They are excellent and nutritious thus. 
 
 188.—Brown Ragout of Veal.—Take two pounds of the 
 breast, cut it into rather small pieces, about the size of an egg, 
 roll them well in flour, put some fat in the frying-pan, fry the 
 meat until a nice brown, take it out, and then fry four onions, 
 two turnips cut in large dice, and one carrot the same; when 
 brown take them out, put the veal and vegetables into pan, season 
 with two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, add a pint of 
 water, to which has been added four teaspoonfuls of browning ; 
 put into oven for one hour, skim the fat, shake the pan, 
 and serve. A few herbs and a little ham or bacon is an im- 
 provement. Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork may be done the 
 same way. A teaspoonful of sugar is an improvement. 
 
 189. Fillet of Veal for an Extra Dinner.—A small fillet of 
 veal, boned and stuff with No. 464; tie it up tight, put some fat 
 into a fryingpan, about an inch deep; put in the fillet, fry 
 gently until one side is brown, and then put in the other side 
 until brown; fry in the same pan some large button onions 
 whole, some turnips and carrots, cut in pieces the size of eggs ; 
 put the fillet into a pan, with a piece of fat bacon at the 
 bottom; fill up round it with the vegetables; put another 
 piece of bacon on the top, add some seasoning to the vege- 
 tables, and a pint of water; put on the cover, so that the 
 steam does not escape; put it into a slow oven, giving a quarter 
 of an hour for each pound weight. When served take out the 
 fillet, put the gravy into a small basin, and skim off the fat; 
 pour the gravy over the veal, and either serve the vegetables 
 round the fillet or separate. A little browning is an improve- 
 ment. 
 
 190. The following is another favourite dish of mine :—It is 
 to lard a calf’s liver with about twenty pieces of bacon (see No. 
 459), put about a quarter of a pound of fat or dripping into a 
 frying pan, fry for twenty minutes until of a nice brown colour, 
 place it in the baking stew-pan, also fry a quarter of a pound of 
 bacon cut in dice, twenty large button onions, twenty pieces of 
 
a eas ee eee)? a ee A ne ee Bip ts he mel 
 
 SOYER’S BAKING STEWING-PAN, 7% 
 
 carrot, twenty of turnip; when a nice colour throw two ounces of 
 flour over them, and stir; three teaspoonfuls of salt, and a small 
 one of pepper, two of sugar; put all this into the pan, add three 
 pints of hot coloured water No. 462 a, and a bunch of sweet herbs; 
 shake the pan well, and place in oven for two hours; skim the 
 fat and serve. These preparations are for a large sized liver. 
 Pig’s, lamb’s, and sheep’s liver, is excellent done thus. You 
 may place all the above ingredients in the baking pan without 
 frying any; it will be very good, though not so savoury in 
 flavour. 
 
 191. Beef-a-la-Mode.—Take a piece of the thick part of the 
 rump of beef, about four pounds, not too fat; take half a pound 
 of fat bacon and a calf’s foot ; cut the bacon into pieces about two 
 - inches long and half an inch square, lard the beef through with . 
 
 the bacon (see No. 459), place the beef in the pan, and also the 
 foot, divided in two, and a bunch of sweet herbs, two middle- 
 sized carrots, cut into squares, and twenty button onions, or 
 four or six large ones, cut into slices; add half a quartern of 
 brandy, a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, one pint of 
 water, put the cover on the pan, to prevent the steam escaping, 
 and send it to the baker’s for three hours; should it be done 
 at home, turn the pan so that the heat is equal on all sides; 
 when done remove the fat from the top, put the beef in a dish, 
 with the foot on each side, and the carrots and onions round; 
 throw the gravy over; take away the herbs. This, you may 
 perceive, is a most exquisite dish, will keep good many days in 
 winter, and five or six in summer. It is good cold. 
 
 192. The same plainer.—Proceed as above, adding half a 
 pint of old ale instead of the brandy, or a wineglass of vinegar 
 and an ox-foot instead of a calf’s-foot. Any piece of the fleshy 
 part of the ox is good done so. 
 
 193. The same, to be eaten cold.—Cut the beef into square 
 pieces, of a quarter of a pound each, cut ten pieces of lean 
 bacon three inches long, have a cowheel already boiled in about 
 two quarts of water, with two onions, pepper and salt, and a little 
 vinegar ; take the cowheel and remove all the bones, and place it, 
 with the meat and bacon, in the pan, with the liquor in which 
 the heel was boiled, two carrots cut into small dice, ten gherkins 
 
 cut into slices, and sent to the oven for three hours; take off the 
 
 Ss 
 
78 " -SOYER’S BAKING STEWING-PAN. 
 
 cover, and place a flat piece of board on the top of the meat, with 
 
 a heavy weight, so as to make it firm; and when cold use it. It. 
 
 is very good for breakfast. To remove it from the pan place the 
 pan in hot water for a few minutes, and turn it over; it will 
 come out easily, and cut like brawn, or it may be cut from the pan. 
 
 194, Leg, Breast, Scrag, and Head of Lamb,—These may 
 all be done as follows:—Put it into a gallon pan, with one 
 carrot, two turnips, one leek, cut in thick slices, thirty young 
 button onions whole, three teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, 
 cover with water, and set it on the fire, or in your oven for 
 one hour; at the end of one hour put in one pint of peas, a 
 little green mint, and a teaspoonful of sugar; set it by the side 
 of the fire or in the oven for half an hour longer, and serve. 
 This is for a lee or joint of five pounds weight; for a larger one 
 take a little longer time. A bunch of parsley and sweet-herbs 
 may be added, but should be removed when served. The 
 flavour is exquisite, and may be served with vegetable or with- 
 out, as liked, but then the broth should be strained, and the 
 vegetables served separate, or the broth made into spring or 
 other soups. 
 
 : 195. Pork.—Any part, not too fat, is fe Saas good done 
 
 in this way: Cut two pounds in. slices, rather large and thin, 
 season with salt and pepper, then add a few slices of fat, then 
 some slices of potatoes, then pork and then potatoes, until all is 
 in; add half a pint of water. Bake one hour anda half. 
 
 196. Another way with Apple—Cut the pork in thiek pieces, 
 peel two baking apples, four onions, and eight potatoes, cut them 
 in slices, season with pepper and salt, and, if liked, a little 
 powdered sage, intermix the vegetables, lay the slices and the 
 vegetables together, half a pint of water, or enough to cover it. 
 Bake two hours and serve. 
 
 197, Another, simpler.—When in a great hurry proceed thus : 
 —Put in a dish two pounds of pork in slices, one onion, one pound 
 of potatoes, also sliced ; two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper, 
 one of flour; mix all well together, put it in the pan with halfa 
 pint of waiee, Bake one Hout ag p Uae. Ate ue may 
 be used with the meat. ‘ 
 
 198. Salé Pork with Peas—Take two pounds of the belly 
 
 ae 
 
SOYER’S BAKING STEWING-PAN, 79 
 
 of ‘pow, eut into large dice, wash half a pint of eplit peas, put 
 them into a three-quart pan, with some pepper, and half a carrot 
 cut in small pieces, fill it wp with cold water, send it to the oven 
 for two hours, stir up the peas well before serving. A few 
 vegetables may be introduced. Rice may be used instead of peas. 
 
 199. Salt Pork may be used thus: Take a four-quart pan, 
 eut up the pork and some greens, remove the stalk, slice them, 
 and also add four onions sliced, four cloves, and one teaspoonful 
 of pepper; press it well down; put over it a quarter of a pound 
 of dripping, add a pint of water, and stew for three hours; a 
 little salt may be added if the pork is not salt enough; it will 
 make an excellent soup if filled up with water half an hour 
 previous to using. 
 
 Red cabbage may also be used, but first boiled for ten minutes 
 in plain water; then add half a pint of vinegar and beh 
 peppercorns, if handy. 
 
 200.. Green Peas and Pork.—Put a piece of salt pork, about 
 two pounds, into pan, with a quart of peas; fill up with water, 
 add two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, two 
 onions; bake for three hours. Salt beef is also good; a little 
 mint may be added. ‘Three pints of large peas alone, with a 
 little dripping, is good as above. 
 
 201. Cabbage and Pork.—Cut two good Savoy cabbages 
 in thin slices, wash them, put half in pan, then a piece of pork 
 about two pounds, or either ham, bacon, or salt beef; season as 
 foregoing receipt, add the remainder of the cabbage; seasatt 
 again; add, if you have it, four cloves, or pepper coral: fot 
 onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs: do not fill it with water te — 
 the brim, or it will boil over. Red cabbage may be used the 
 same way, only adding half a pint of vinegar, and if beef, two 
 ounces of dripping. 
 
 202. Haricot beans and other pulse may be done precisely the 
 same way. In fact, all dried pulse may be here used, and 
 I cannot too strongly recommend both the dried haricot beans 
 and lentils. I have also latterly tried the dried green pea, well 
 soaked for twenty hours, and dressed as haricots and lentils. I 
 find that one pint absorbs two quarts of water. It makes an 
 agreeable as well as economical food. i 
 
80 SOYER’S BAKING STEWING-PAN. — 
 
 203. Beefand Pork.—Semi-Carthisian Fashion.—Sausages, 
 cervelas, saveloys, beef sausages, knuckles of ham, and salted — 
 pig’s feet and tongue, which are daily to be obtained in London, ~ 
 may be dressed in this way: Buy two good savoys or white © 
 cabbages, cut them in four, take out the hard stalk, and boil . 
 
 them for ten minutes in water; place them ma dish to drain; 
 
 cut the quarters again into four, lay some at the bottorn of the | 
 
 pan, then a few sausages and saveloys, season with salt and 
 
 pepper, and thea fill up the pan; then add two ounces of © 
 
 dripping or suet, half a pint of water, bake one hour and a half, 
 and servé with cabbage under, and sausages on the top. 
 Red cabbage with saveloys are preferable; then add one gill 
 
 of vinegar, a few peppercorns; stew them longer, and serve as ~ 
 
 above. I have tried with raw cabbage ; it is not bad, and saves 
 time. 
 
 Two or three onions sliced may be added, or one large Spanish 
 onion. 
 
 This receipt will do for pig’s feet, knuckles of ham, trimmings 
 of ham or pork, a piece of cooked brisket of beef, which is generally 
 sold underdone, in which case the cabbage should be done first. 
 
 Sheeps’ and pigs’ tongues are very good done in this way, and 
 they make a cheap and wholesome meal. 
 
 204. Large Dutch Rabbits—Put into a one gallon pan a 
 rabbit, cut into about eighteen or twenty pieces; peel eight 
 onions, twenty potatoes cut into thin slices; also half a pound 
 of bacon cut into dice, season with salt and pepper, then 
 
 place the meat and potatoes in layers, add nearly a pint of: 
 
 water ; cover over and bake two hours ; shake the pan round and 
 serve. 
 
 205. Curry Rabbits.—Proceed as above; only add to the 
 
 ewe | ea _—T 
 
 water two teaspoonfuls of curry powder; let it well mix, or ! 
 
 season with it at the same time as the other seasoning. 
 
 The same may be done with rice instead of potatoes, but use 
 two quarts of water to every pound of rice. One pound ef good 
 rice ought to weigh five pounds when boiled. 
 
 206. Plain Rabbit, Chickens, or Pigeons for Invalids.— 
 The rabbit should be cut into nice pieces; the chicken in 
 quarters; the pigeons into halves; place it in a two-quart pan, 
 
ene 4 Ree er ie iy 
 es ers. IN BAKING STEWING-PAN. 81 
 iiyith a quarter of a pond: of bacon cut in dice, a little salt and 
 - pepper a few sprigs of parsley, and half a pint of water, if the 
 pan is not quite full; fill up with some small pieces of veal; put 
 a plain paste over all, No. 317; put cover close over, and baka 
 | one hour. Skim the fat off, and serve. 
 
 HOW TO USE THE PAN FOR SEMI-ROASTING. 
 
 _ The deep tin dish at the bottom of the pan is to contain either 
 | pudding, gravy, or vegetables, the grating above is to lay any aie 
 ' poultry, fish, or game on, you wish to cook by this process. 
 
 207. Fibs of Beef’ semi-roasted.—Purchase two ribs of beet 
 
 - bone them, then season the interior of the meat with salt and 
 pepper; roll the meat round like a cheese, using a piece of 
 
 _ string or a skewer to keep it in that position; make a quart of 
 
 _ batter, as No. 3774; put it in your pan, which previously well 
 grease; put the grating over, and lay your meat on it, surround- 
 
 ee ee en a Le eo er 
 
 ing it with potatoes either whole or cut; allowing from twelve 
 
 to fifteen minutes for each pound of meat, according to the 
 state of the oven. Dish up the beef with the potatoes round, 
 and serve the pudding in the tin, or turn it out on a dish. The 
 _ beef may be stuffed with stuffing, No. 464. 
 
 _. Nothing is more objectionable to me than to see salt put on 
 | the top of a roast joint, and water poured over to make the gravy. 
 The only way to remedy this is to put a gill of boiling water 
 and a little salt on. the hot dish you intend putting the meat on, 
 turning the joint in it once during the interval of a minute; 
 and, whilst carving, the juice from the meat will mingle with 
 it and make a good gravy. Half a teaspoonful of colouring, 
 much improves its appearance. ‘This is applicable to all roasted 
 or semi-roasted joints. 
 
 | For large ribs of beef or sirloins, you can put the salt on the 
 _ bones at the back of the joint, and pour half a pint of boiling 
 _ water over; not however disturbing the meat. 
 
 | Brown gravy, No. 2, or broth, No. 1, will be found pre- 
 | ferable to either of the above. 
 
 208. Mution semi-roasted.—Half a leg of mutton, about 
 | fur pounds, potatoes and pudding, if liked, under, will take 
 | about one hour. Shoulder the same. 
 
 | 209. Pork semi-roasted.—Place in the bottom four apples, 
 | peeled, four onions sliced, and potatoes, and over that a joint of 
 G 
 
 Pee ire AD Cer ee Pw TCA Peele ee ee, 
 
 Ne, ¢ 
 
89 SEMI-ROASTING IN BAKING STEWING-PAN. 
 
 pik: rubbed with salt and pepper; sprinkle a little sage ; aad q 
 _ half a pint of water in the pan: bake for two hours. . 
 
 For a change, pork should be purchased the day before using, 
 covering it all over with salt; and then scrape it well before cook- 
 ing it, makes it eat short and savoury. 
 
 210. Lamb semi-roasted.—Boil some spinach in salt and — 
 water, drain it well, and chop it up; put it in the pan, sea- 
 soned with salt and pepper; put potatoes over the grating, 
 and then the joint of lamb; small ribs or shoulder will take an 
 hour; leg, one hour and thirty minutes. Dish it up with the 
 spinach separate, the fat having been removed from it. Greens 
 of any kind may be done in the same manner, particularly the 
 young leaf of the white beet, which is an excellent substitute for — 
 spinach, or even chopped nettles: these are also good under — 
 pork, veal, or beef, as also is a Yorkshire pudding, as at ribs of 
 beef, No. 176. 
 
 211. Poultry semi-roasted.—Almost any kind of vegetables, 
 such as carrots, turnips, onions, potatoes, celery, or mushrooms, 
 may be put raw in the pan and cooked under poultry, as well 
 
 as cabbage, spinach, or greens, previously boiled and chopped. 
 
 ~ 1s¢ Lesson.—Pluck, draw, and stuff a middle-sized fowl; peel 
 and cut in middling-sized pieces about half a pownd of carrots, — 
 the same of turnips; place them in the pan with half a pint of — 
 water, half a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, and half of pepper; 
 put the grating over, placing the fowl on tt, surrounding it with — 
 peeled potatoes, season a little more, bake for an hour, and serve} 4 
 also rub a little butter or fat over the breast, or cover it with a — 
 few slices of bacon ; a little colouring may be added to the gravy. — 
 This receipt is applicable to all kinds of birds, game, or — 
 poultry, allowing about ten minutes baking to every pound of 1 
 large poultry or game, and the smaller ones in proportion. 
 
 _ 212. Rabbits, stuffed, put sliced onions in the bottom of the — 
 pan, if liked, or boiled rice, previously seasoned, and a bit of ~ 
 butter, &c.; put half a pit of water; bake thirty-five or fifty 
 minutes, according to size, and serve. . 
 If any joint happetis to be too fat, it will not do to put a — 
 Yorkshire pudding under, as the fat would prevent it setting; 
 but if either greens, boiled rice, or potatoes, are added, you will 
 be able to press the fat off with the back of a spoon, or a plate; 
 or the vegetable presser, (see Appendix,) and serve separately, 
 
 bene 
 
a ee eee ee = 
 Spee es 
 
 sort 
 
 ~ gover’s BAKING STEWING-PAN. 83 
 
 i. semi-roast a Joint with gravy only. —Put in the pan half 
 a pint of water, together with half a teaspoonful of salt, half 
 that of pepper. When done, take off the fat, add a little colour- 
 ing, pour under the joint, and serve. 
 
 USEFUL HINTS ON THE PIG. 
 
 Once or twice a year every cottager ought to kill his pig. Ifa 
 _ pig is washed and ‘kept clean, it softens the skin and allows it to 
 expand; in fact, a pig thus treated comes much quicker round; it is 
 proved that a pig at fourteen months, kept clean, is equal to one at 
 eighteen which is not attended to. The same day some of the liver 
 may be fried, but the rest can be used in the pan as follows :— 
 
 213. Cut it into large dice; put two ounces of fat or dripping into 
 frying-pan, cut up a quarter of a pound of bacon into small dice, 
 fry them for five minutes, and then shake over a teaspoonful of 
 flour, put in the liver, with one teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of 
 pepper, fry it for five minutes, add a gill of water, keep stirring, 
 and put it into pan, with a pound of turnips cut in small dice, 
 _ four onions cut in four, and half a pint of boiling water ; put into 
 _. a slow oven for fifty minutes, and then serve with toasted 
 sippets round the dish. A bunch of herbs, No. 460, may be added. 
 
 Veal, sheeps’, lambs’, and ox liver, and kidneys, may all be 
 done the same way; less time for lamb and more for ox; any 
 other vegetables may be used, and particularly mushrooms. 
 
 214. Veal._—Take six pounds of veal usually used for roasting, 
 tub it with? salt, put halfa pint of water in the tin, and potatoes 
 above, and then the veal; it will take two hours. When it is 
 served, take off the fat from the gravy in the pan, and pour over 
 the veal, reserving the fat for puddings. A piece of bacon and 
 greens should be boiled at home, or a small piece of bacon may 
 
 _ be placed with the potatoes; dish the veal with the potatoes, and 
 
 _ bacon round it or separate; add a little colouring to gravy. 
 
 A. piece of veal stuffed may be roasted thus. ‘Or, for gravy, 
 
 _ make melted butter No. 410, with four teaspoonfuls of Harvey | 
 _ sauce, or ketchup, and pour it over. 
 
 _ 215. Toad in the Hole—No. 1~May be made in either a 
 _ baking-dish, pie-dish, or tin. Get about two-pounds of trimmings 
 | of either beef, mutton, veal, or lamb, not too fat, and cut them. 
 
 q 2 
 
See Vi oe] Ty eo a A: Mid ib 
 
 B84 SOYER'S BAKING STEWING-PAN. 
 
 into pieces, each about the size of a small egg; season with salt 
 and pepper, make about two quarts of batter, second class ; 
 grease the pan well, put in the meat and batter, and place in a 
 slow oven for nearly two hours, and serve hot. 
 
 No. 2, with Potatoes.—Proceed as before. When the pan is 
 ready put about two pounds of previously boiled potatoes, cut in 
 slices, and bake as before. 
 
 No. 3, with Peas.—Proceed as before, only adding about one 
 quart of good green peas, Last boiled ; broad beans may be 
 used the same way. 
 
 eee ee ee a ee 
 
 No. 4.—Remains of cooked meat may be done the same way, 
 but it will take less time to cook. 
 
 No. 5,— Calves’, or any brains, previously parboiled in 
 water, and the skin removed, well seasoned with pepper and salt, 
 and a few slices of bacon added to the batter, make a very — 
 delicate dish. ‘ 
 
 No. 6.—Six larks or twelve sparrows, with a slice of. bacon 
 skewered round each, with the batter, and put into the oven for 
 two hours. 
 
 ' No. 7.—Ox cheek and sheeps’ heads, previously cooked and 
 nicely seasoned, with the addition of a little chopped onions 
 added to the batter, is an economical dish. A few ‘slices of 
 cooked potatoes may be added. 
 
 No. 8.—Truss a rabbit for roasting, make a stuffing with the 
 liver, &c., chopped — up, bread-crumbs, beef-suet, and seasoning ; 
 _ stuff the maint lay on the bottom of the pan a thick slice of 
 ~ fat bacon, and over that a slice, one inch thick, of beefsteak, and 
 then the rabbit, to which add two quarts of batter; place in the — 
 oven for two hours, and serve hot. ‘This is enough for a large 
 family. The rabbit may be cut in pieces; boiled cauliflower 
 may be added. 
 
 a, ala 
 
 I en SS eee TL a Se fe ee ie oe a 
 
 Sa ee ee 
 
 No. ‘9.—Remains of previously cooked hare may be done in 
 the same way, with some currant-jelly in the stuffing. 
 
 No. 10.—A. blade-bone of pork, two onions, cut in slices, and el 
 four potatoes sliced, pepper and salt, and one quart of batter — 
 put over them; place in the oven one hour, and serve hot. 
 
 Peary 
 
- SOYER’S BAKING STEWING-PAN. 
 
 » WNo. 11,—Remains of salt pork, or any roast meat, may all be 
 _ done in this way, and varied according to the taste of the 
 | partalker. v 
 Remains of any kind of fish may also be done thus, with: 
 previously boiled potatoes. 
 
 216. Jugged Hare —Cut a alt hare into pieces about the 
 size of éggs, cut half a pound of bacon into dice not too small, 
 lay both on a dish, mix together three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of 
 pepper, four of flour, three of chopped onions, one of powdered 
 thyme and bay-leaf, four cloves, and a quarter of a nutmeg, 
 grated ; rub the hare and bacon with these; place them in the 
 pan. Having saved the blood, chop up the ‘Wer and mix with 
 it, add to it a wineglass of brandy, or two of port or sherry, or 
 one of vinegar, or half a pint ofale, stout, or porter, and a pint of 
 water ; put this in the pan, and cover over with pudding-paste No. 
 319; put on the cover ;,shake the whole well to make it mix; and 
 Take for three hours, if an old hare; if a young one two cee 
 It is equally as good cold as hot. If eaten hot, a little currant- 
 jelly should be served with it. 
 
 - Some stuffing No. 465, made into little balls, can be added 
 with ‘advantage, or even a few suet balls, and two tablespoonfuls 
 | of colouring ; mix with the water. It can be done plainer, with 
 salt and pepper and water only ; or twenty small onions and eight 
 potatoes, cut inslices, may be added, or even mushrooms may be 
 put in. é 
 
 217. Jugged Hare, Marinaded.—It should be cut as above, 
 and put into a bowl, with half water and half vinegar to cover 
 it; four teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, four of brown 
 sugar, two onions cut in slices, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, cloves, 
 peppercorns ; turn them now and then for four days, and cook as 
 above, with the marinade in. 
 
 218. How to cook all kinds of Fishin Baking Stem ov: 
 
 —Take six pounds of any fish, cut. it crossways, two inches 
 thick, put them in the pan, with salt, pepper, chopped onions ; fill 
 it up; well intermix the seasoning ; when full, put in a basin four 
 ounces of flour, which mix with a quart of water, which pour 
 over, shake the pot, well cover it, bake two hours imrather a hot 
 oven ; seasoning to be four teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, 
 two onions, and chopped parsley ; onions may be omitted, but use 
 herbs and mixed spice. 
 
 ated 
 
ae 
 86 SOYER’S BAKING STEWING-PAN, 
 
 Halibut, hake, ling, conger, cod, pike, carp, tench, perch, and 
 piper may be done the same way. 
 
 Rice may be added in the following way :—A pound of pre- 
 viously boiled rice, two quarts of milk, a little sugar and salt, two 
 ounces of butter, a squeeze of lemon, and put into the pan with 
 the fish. : 
 
 The addition of a few spoonfuls of fish sauce will greatly vary 
 this dish. When done serve, without breaking the piece, if 
 possible. 
 
 219. Pieces of Fish.—For a two-quart pan, cut four mackerel 
 in three pieces each, which roll in flour, place them in rows in 
 the pan, two teaspoonfuls of salt and a half pepper, two teaspoonfuls 
 of chopped onions; fennel or parsley may be added ; put in two 
 gills of water, place cover over, bake one hour in a hot oven, and 
 serve, having first taken off the oil from the top. 
 
 220. Zo Pickle Mackerel and Herrings in the Baking- 
 pan.—When these fish are plentiful they may be done as 
 follows, and will be found to keep and eat admirably well:— _ 
 
 Cut the mackerel into three pieces, enough to fill the one- 
 gallon pan, lay some at the bottom and season, and continue 
 thus until full; the seasoning should be four teaspoonfuls of salt,. 
 two of pepper, ten peppercorns, four onions sliced, a handful of 
 parsley, chopped; add over all one quart of vinegar and a pint of 
 water ; place the cover over, and bake slowly for two hours; 
 some sweet herbs or a bay-leaf may be added, 
 
 221. Herrings, pilchards, and sprats can be done as above, 
 only a little variation to the seasoning and the time of cooking, 
 according to the size; when quite cold pour some oil or lard on 
 the top ; put the cover on, and keep out the air as much as possible, 
 and they will keep a long time. 
 
 . 222. Halibut, hake, ling, conger eel, plaice, gurnet, codlings,. 
 sturgeons, and haddock, may all be pickled as above. Cut 
 halibut one inch thick and three inches in length; place them 
 at the bottom of the pan; season over as before, and one tea- 
 spoonful of ground ginger and sweet herbs. 
 
 223. Baked Eels.—Cut several eels in pieces of three inches © & 
 
 long, roll them in flour, put them in the two-quart pan, season with 
 
SOYER'S BAKING STEWING-PAN, Sy 
 
 salt, pepper, chopped onions, a little thyme; continue until full, 
 add a glass of sherry, half a pint of water, cover over with some 
 crust, either pie or pudding, put on the lid, and bake one hour. 
 
 Seasoning, two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper, and two 
 of chopped onions. ‘Take the oil off, and serve. 
 
 224. A Piece of Beef stewed in Baking Pan.—Get three 
 wing ribs of beef, bone them, season with salt and pepper on 
 each side; to vary the flavour, chopped parsley and a little spice 
 may be added, or even chopped onions; roll it round, and fasten + 
 | it with string; rub more salt on it, and place it in the pan; 
 _ send it to the baker’s; four pounds will take one hour. ‘This 
 is the best part to bone, but most other pieces miay be used. 
 Stuff by making an incision in the lean part, and binding it 
 up with string. 
 
 225.—If you wish a Yorkshire pudding and potatoes to be 
 baked at the same time, they may be placed in it, and when it 
 comes home all will be found excellent. Instead of the gratings 
 in the pan, it may be divided in two, one for pudding and the 
 other for potatoes. 
 
 All joints may be done the same way. 
 
 226. To Boil Meat in Pan.—Spice Beef.—Take four pounds 
 of the thick ribs of beef, or any part, put in the pan, with a pint 
 of water, a teaspoonful of allspice, two of salt, two bayleaves, 
 two eschalots, or a little garlic; stew three hours, either in oven 
 or on the fire, keeping the cover well closed; half an hour before 
 being done add a teacupful of the raspings of bread, half a pint 
 of vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, simmer, dish up, and sauce 
 over. 
 
 227. Salt Meat.—To plain-boil this in the oven, which can be 
 done when no fire is required at home, put six pounds of salt 
 beef into a six-quart pan, with four whole parsnips, two large 
 carrots, and six dumplings; send them to the oven for two 
 hours; dish up the meat with the vegetables, and dumplings 
 round. The liquor can be saved and made into soup; the 
 vegetables can be cut in two. 
 
 All kinds of salt meat can be done the same. If the broth 
 be too salt add some water, and use for pea-soup. 
 
 eran et horas, oa Oe ne tote Pe ee ee ee eee EO ea 
 
88 ON ROASTING, 
 
 ON ROASTING. 
 
 My DEAR ELOIse,—My last letter you must have misunderstood. 
 J did not mean that roasting before the fire should be entirely done away 
 with, but that, on the score of economy, it should not be practised in 
 the cottage, but that my new plan of semi-roasting should be followed. 
 I was the more particularly led to these remarks, from having, last 
 Sunday, immediately after church, visited several colliers’ cottages 
 ‘ belonging to a Mr. Pope, close to this place. My motive for doing so 
 was to see the economy of the cottage, as well as the kind of food 
 
 they had for dinner. The first I went into had a piece of the belly or — 
 
 flap of beef, just taken down from a dangle, having been roasted. It 
 was lying in the dripping pan, and was a great deal over done; in 
 fact, dried. Noticing, in the course of conversation, that the fire 
 was spoiling it still more, I took a plate from the table, and placed it 
 against it, so that it should not burn. The old lady noticed my pro- 
 ceeding, and asked me if I was going to have a bit of dinner with 
 them? “No, thank you, my dear madam,” replied I. “Then let 
 me take away the plate, as it will spoil our dinner.” “ How do 
 you make that out?” I asked. ‘“ Well, the fat is not yet half 
 out of the meat, and my Thomas will not eat fat, unless it is 
 dripping in the crust of pies or puddings.” I then perceived that the 
 meat was, in their estimation, a second consideration, and that they 
 paid the price of beef for the fat, paying eightpence per pound for the 
 meat, when they could get the fat at fivepence. There was scarcely 
 any nutriment left in the meat—that which weighed five pounds 
 before roasting, weighing hardly three pounds when done. There 
 were seven to dine off it—the grandmother, the two parents, and 
 four children. ‘There was, besides, a few potatoes galloping on the 
 fire—no other vegetable, and no puddings or sweets for the children, 
 but excellent home-made bread, and not bad small beer. You may 
 now perceive that some little improvement in this style of cookery 
 would be an immense saving to these cottagers, and out of the three 
 shillings and fourpence they paid for the beef, if done in the pan, 
 with a pudding and potatoes under, and the meat not quite so fat, 
 they would have got a good dinner and plenty for the next day, 
 either hot or cold. If they wanted dripping, they could get fat 
 at four or fivepence, instead of eightpence, and prepare it as No. 
 464c. It will keep for a long time, without turning sour. 
 
 I visited, immediately after, several other of the cottages, in which 
 I found steaks cooked dry, indeed, some half burnt, chumps of mutton 
 half done, ha¥ legs of mutton neither boiled or baked; in one a 
 sheep’s head baked, and very nicely done, with potatoes round it, which 
 was very inviting; there was also suet dumplings for the children, 
 
 ia ee 
 
 se ee ea. oe 
 
 a ee 
 
re a ee eee eee ee ar we Pe en eT eee, he PSA Sh ee 5h 
 
 ON ROASTING. | 89 
 
 with treacle over. This cottage was cleaner than any of the others, 
 
 and the children were neatly dressed, and about to change their 
 costume, in order to do full justice to the treacle dumplings. In 
 
 - giving those rosy-cheeked urchins a few pence, I retired much grati- . 
 
 fied by my visit to these antediluvian workmen, who pass one-third 
 of their life in the bowels of the earth. 
 
 You will perceive from what I have said, that to the artisan, 
 labourer, and even the small tradesman, the old mode of roasting, | 
 which comes to us from Homeric ages and primitive times, is an extra- 
 vagant and wasteful mode of cooking, and the sooner it is reformed 
 the better. Though it is preferable to meat done in a baker’s oven, 
 if well attended to. 
 
 But first let me add one more remark on the experience of that 
 day. Returning to the Normanton Hotel to dinner, we had a beau- 
 tiful dish of greens; and what do you think those greens were? 
 Green young nettles, which I had asked the gardener to gather for 
 me the day previous, and in less than half an hour we had a basket 
 
 1 full. I picked them with gloves, but he made a grasp at a large 
 
 quantity, and I found that they did not prick him, He got them as 
 
 fast as a monkey could get chestnuts out of hot cinders. The cook 
 
 dressed them, according to my directions, exactly like spinach, and 
 most who ate of them thought they were spinach, only rather too hot 
 of pepper, which is their peculiar nature. 
 
 I found that they are known in this part of the country as being 
 
 : good and wholesome in the spring; but because the people can have _ 
 _ them for nothing, they will not partake of them; like the water- 
 ' eresses, that rot in every clear stream in the neighbourhood. I intend 
 
 to make another trial or so on the nettles, which I will forward to you. 
 
 HOW TO ROAST. 
 
 _ Haviye, thus far, given you some of my experience as regards 
 
 roasting, I will, in as few words as possible, describe the simple plan 
 
 _ of roasting before the fire, which, I must again repeat, is far from 
 _ being economical. The artisan requires as much nourishment as 
 - possible, and should not pay extravagantly for fancy joints, or those 
 called the best, because most in vogue for roasting. Let the wealthy 
 pay for their taste, as they do for their Raphaels, Rubens, and 
 ' Murillos; it is no reason, because they do so, that a labouring man 
 | should imitate them, and because one has a leg of mutton, the other 
 _ should likewise have one. This very day I have seen, in Nottingham 
 _ market, all the best joints sold by the butchers, and nothing but the 
 ' necks of mutton and the coarse pieces of beef left, which, they tell 
 me, hang for days and days, lessening both quality and quantity, and 
 | then are sold at twopence or threepence per pound. This causes 
 _ the joints most in vogue to be dear, whilst there is quite as much 
 
90 ON THE ECONOMY OF ROASTING BY GAS. 
 
 nourishment in proportion in those sold at half the He when cooked 
 
 fresh. 
 
 I must here, however, describe the proper system of roasting, 
 either before the fire or by gas (see note). And as an invariable rule, 
 all dark meats, such as beef and mutton, should be put down to a 
 sharp fire for at least fifteen minutes, until the outside has a coating 
 of osmazome or gravy, then remove it back, and let it do gently. 
 Lamb, veal, and pork, if young and tender, should be done at a 
 moderate fire. Veal even should be covered with paper. . 
 
 Very rich meat, if covered with paper, does not require basting. 
 Fowls, &e., should be placed close to the fire, to set the skin, and in 
 about ten minutes rubbed over with a small piece of butter, pressed in 
 aspoon. Roast meats should be dredged with flour, just at the time 
 when the gravy begins to appear; the flour absorbs it, and forms 
 a coating which prevents any more coming out. Hares and small 
 game the same. 
 
 COTTAGE ROASTING. 
 
 In the first place, the fire must be made up, and cleared from 
 ashes. Place before it the dripping-pan, and from above the fire, 
 suspend from a hook a piece of worsted thread, sufficiently strong to 
 bear the joint, and a hook suspended at the end. Have a piece of 
 stick forked at one end, which place against the mantle-piece, so that 
 
 Note. 
 
 ON THE COMFORT AND ECONOMY OF ROASTING BY 
 GAS, WHERE IT CAN BE PROCURED. 
 
 Experiment made at the Royal Naval School, Greenwich Hospital, » 
 
 by M. Soyer. 
 
 Two interesting trials have taken place at the above establishment 
 with an apparatus manufactured by Messrs. Smith and Phillips, 
 
 patentees, of Skinner-street, Snow-hill, under the superintendence of — 
 M. Soyer, which in their results finally determine the question on ~ 
 
 the merits and economy of roasting by gas. 
 
 The result of the first trial, which took place on the 8th inst., 
 was, that 36 legs of mutton, weighing 288 Ibs., were roasted at a 
 cost of 1s. 2d. 
 
 Tn order to arrive at more positive results in regard to its economy, 
 a second trial was deemed requisite, which took place on the 11th 
 inst., when equal weights of mutton were cooked. Twenty-three 
 joints, weighing 184 lbs., were roasted by gas, at a cost of 103d., 
 
 with gas supplied at 4s. per 1000 feet. When cooked, the above i 
 weight of meat was found to weigh 145 Ibs., dripping 19 Ibs., and — 
 
 Se 
 
 i a 
 
 a ee 
 
| 
 } 
 | 
 i 
 1] 
 
 COTTAGE ROASTING, 
 
 ‘tt wad the thread at a sufficient distance from the fire. By having 
 _ two pieces of stick, the distances can be easily managed. Twist the 
 _ worsted; put on the joint; give it a sufficient distance from the 
 
 fire. This is quite equal to either a smoke or bottle-jack for cottage 
 use. 
 
 Every cottage should have a moveable piece of iron or steel 
 screwed on the mantel-piece, with teeth fixed in it, so as to 
 be able to hang the joint at any distance from the fire. See 
 
 | Appendix, at end of book. 
 
 TIME TABLE FOR ROASTING. 
 
 228. Ten pounds of beef will take from two hours to two 
 hours and a half roasting, eighteen inches from a good fire. 
 
 Six pounds one hour and a quarter to one hour and a half, 
 fourteen inches from the fire. 
 
 Three ribs of beef, boned and rolled (see No. 207), well tied 
 
 _ round with paper, will take two hours and a half, eighteen 
 
 inches from the fire, and only baste once. 
 If beef is very fat, it does not require basting; if very aa 
 tie it up in greasy paper, and baste well. 
 
 229. Hight pounds of veal will take from one hour and a half 
 
 _ gtavy, or osmazome, 21 Ibs., thus showing the actual loss to be 
 _ 18% Ibs, Twenty-three joints of mutton were cooked in the usual 
 | way, as adopted at the institution, namely, in one of Count Rom- 
 _ ford’s ovens, hitherto considered the most economical way of roasting. 
 | When put in they weighed 184 1bs., when done 132 lbs., dripping 
 _ 18 lbs., gravy none, thus showing a loss of 34 ]bs. The coke con- 
 ' sumed in this oven was 102 lbs., coal 30 lbs., thus proving the great 
 ' economy of gas over the oven by a saving of 13 lbs. of meat, 1 lb. of 
 _ dripping, 2% Ibs. of gravy. The value of the saving is as follows:— 
 _ Meat at 6d. per lb., 6s. 6d.; dripping at 5d. per lb., 5d., and gravy 
 | at 1s. 6d. per lb., 4s. 13d., making a total of 11s. O$d. 
 
 The experiments took place before the governor, Sir C. Adam, 
 
 and lady, Sir J. Liddle, M.D., Lieut. Rouse, general superintendent, 
 | Lieut. Monk, Messrs. Lee and Seville, inspector of works, who ex- 
 pressed their admiration at the cleanliness and simplicity of the 
 
 apparatus, 
 In order to show the advantage of the system in all its branches, 
 a@ rump steak was broiled by M. Soyer, before the company present, 
 
 _ who partook of it, and who declared it was perfection, and free from 
 
 | all odour,— Mechanics? Magazine, 
 
QORS \ COTTAGE ROASTING, 
 
 to two hours, eighteen inches from the fire: if stuffed, at least 
 two hours. a 
 Chump, or loin and kidneys, of four pounds, will take one hour ~ 
 and a quarter; baste well. 
 Six pounds of breast one hour, twelves inches fon the fire. 
 Six pounds of the shoulder or neck the same. 
 Calf’s heart, stuffed and tied up in paper, three quarters of an 
 hour. ; 
 
 230. Mutton (leg of eight pounds), will take one hour and a 
 half, eighteen inches from the fire. 
 
 Saddle, ten pounds, one hour and a quarter to one hour anda 
 half, eighteen inches, measuring from the flat surface. 
 
 Shoulder, one hour and a half. 
 
 Loin, one hour and a half. 
 
 Breast, three quarters of an hour. 
 
 Neck, one hour, 
 
 231. Lamb, according to size, but in the same proportion less 
 than mutton, but ought always to be well done, and placed 
 nearer the fire; if a good fire about fifteen inches from it. 
 
 Pork should be well done. 
 
 Leg of six pounds, with skin over, two hours, eighteen inches 
 from the fire. 
 
 Loin of the same, one hour. 
 
 Neck, the same weight, one hour and three-quarters. I 
 
 Pork rubbed with salt the night previous, and then scraped — 
 before roasting, improves the flavour. y 
 
 In roasting of beef, mutton, lamb, pork, and poultry, place ay 
 dripping-pan “ander the meat, with a little clear dripping or fat, 
 which should be very hot when the meat is basted. A quarter ~ 
 of an hour before serving add half a pint of water to the fatin 
 the dripping-pan ; dredge the meat with flour and salt. When ~ 
 the meat is dished up, pour the contents of the pan into a basin, — 
 
 straining it through a gauze sieve kept on purpose; remove all ~ 
 
 the fat, add a little colouring and salt to the gravy, and pour it — 
 into the dish under the meat. q 
 Veal and poultry should have half the quantity of water put 
 in the pan, and that, when strained, added to half a pint of ~ 
 thick melted butter, adding two teaspoonfuls of any sauce for 
 flavour, as Harvey’s, Soyer’s, or ketchup, &c. # 
 Sage and onions to be served with pork. 
 
ey ee ee ae 
 
 ag oh Sa eer) Aaa Se ai a a aaa oS a A aE ae eS 
 r Etepr een s fe “ ‘ , ; 
 
 ON BAKING MEAT IN OVEN, 93 
 
 ~ Mint sauce with lamb. 
 D Goneale with mutton. 
 
 232. Roasting of Poultry—I proceed thus: Hang it up 
 
 with worsted, about ten inches from the fire, let it hang for ten 
 minutes to set the skin, then press into a wooden spoon a 
 _ piece of butter or hard dripping; when the skin is very hot 
 rub it over with the fat in the spoon until all is melted, then 
 - draw it back to about twelve inches: a good sized fowl will take 
 three quarters of an hour, chicken twenty minutes, middle-sized 
 ' goose one hour, turkey, fourteen pounds, two hours and a half: 
 
 hare, large, one hour and a half, if very young three quarters 
 of an hour. Never baste them, but dredge all, after having well 
 _ rubbed them over with butter, as for Aes 
 
 Small game should be placed nearer the fire. 
 A As stuff both poultry and game with stuffing No. 464, 
 
 _ and make the gravy as for the joints. 
 
 Apple sauce with goose. 
 
 Currant jelly for hare. 
 
 Fried bread-crumbs with grouse. 
 
 Bread sauce with partridge and pheasant. 
 
 ON MEAT IN BAKER’S OVEN. 
 
 _ ‘Tuoveit this system of cooking meat is far from receiving my appro- 
 _ bation, especially on the score of economy, still, it would be very 
 
 ridiculous on our part, Eloise, to think that we should be able 
 
 _ entirely to reforrn this semi-barbarian method of spoiling food. No; 
 
 it must be a work of time that will prevent small folk from running 
 
 _ to the baker’s on Sunday with either their legs or shoulders under their 
 _ arms. The reason why they have recourse to such a process is at 
 once simple and easily explained: first of all, it gives them no 
 trouble, and hardly any of them study economy, so long as the 
 dinner will cook itself, though in company with a score or two ot 
 _ other joints, perhaps no two being of the same size or quality. 
 
 How can a baker, even one of the most conscientious of that useful 
 
 _ glass of individuals, be answerable for the proper cooking of this 
 _ awkward squad, if such we may term it. How also can he prevent 
 _ the potatoes galavanting from one dish to another, or even joints 
 _ changing dishes, and by mistake, going to the wrong home—impos- 
 sible! Is he to be answerable if an eel crawls out of Mrs. Arm- 
 _ strong’s pie (having been put in whole), and, after cooking, being 
 _ found reposing under one of Mrs. Smith’s ribs? or can he prevent 
 | Mrs. Jenkins’s cod’s head staring a neighbouring pig’s face out of 
 
 x 
 
wo, ee a Pee Bae pe 
 me 
 
 54 ON BAKING MEAT 1N OVEN. 
 
 countenance? No more would he be able to obviate the above evils, 
 than he could disentangle the fragrance which emanates from each 
 
 homely volcano, forming, as it does, an aerial coating of osmazome ~ 
 
 under the same roof. 
 
 4 
 
 k 
 ; 
 
 i 
 4 
 % 
 
 Moral. Is it not more easy for a mother to nurse her own child, 
 
 than having to take charge of the whole of her neighbours’ children? 
 therefore, if every housewife would cook her little family dinner at 
 
 home, instead of entrusting it to the nursing care of a baker’s oven, — 
 
 she would, by so doing, though at the sacrifice of a little time, save 
 both nutriment and money. 
 
 A FEW NEW AND USEFUL HINTS ON BAKING MEAT. 
 
 IF we, Eloise, cannot entirely reform the evils caused by the above- 
 described system, I feel myself in duty bound to give a few hints on 
 the subject of ameliorating this wasteful method of cooking, which 
 will tend both to economize and vary the flavour, as well as the sub- 
 stance, of any dish that might be doomed to undergo this ordeal. 
 
 - First of all, I would refer you to such receipts on semi-roasting 
 joints, such as beef, veal, mutton, pork, and lamb, done in the baking- 
 stewing-pan, and proceed in this instance precistly the same. In 
 respect to vegetables, puddings, rice, &e. &e., being anxious that every 
 person should partake of a portion of vegetation with their daily food, 
 independent of potatoes, I have tried all the following receipts, which 
 I beg to forward you, feeling confident they will prove agreeable to 
 our readers’ palate, as well as conducive to their health. 
 
 AN IMPROVED BAKING:DISH. 
 (For drawing of which see Appendix at end of book.) 
 
 I prc to inform you that I have had made, at a very trifling expens®, 
 an improved baking-dish. Its principles are ds follows: on therim of 
 
 the dish, I have attached a moveable false grating of wire, to the © 
 middle of which is fixed a trivet, three inches in height. I then put the - 
 pudding at the bottom of the dish, then put in the grating, on which 
 
 I place the potatoes; then on the trivet I put the meat. By this 
 means the surplus fat, which would otherwise fall in the pudding 
 and prevent its setting, descends on the potatoes, making them deli- 
 
 cate and crisp. This is applicable to any joint, and the meat being — 
 
 more elevated than usual when placed in the oven, causes it to 
 partake more of the flavour of a roast joint than it does when put 
 
 immediately over the pudding or potatoes, the vapours arising from 
 
 which soddens the meat, instead of leaving it brown and well 
 
 carbonized, 
 
ON BAKING MEAT IN OVEN, 95 
 
 x 
 
 A SERIES OF RECEIPTS ON BAKED MATS. 
 
 Ribs of Beef baked.—Take three long ribs of beef, bone, 
 _ season, stuff, and roll as for semi-roasting, No. 207; put either 
 Yorkshire pudding or any kind of vegetable in the bottom of 
 | the dish, then put on the grating; on which put your potatoes; 
 | then fix on the trivet at about three inches above the grating; 
 when done, pour on a hot dish half a pint of boiling water, 
 | quarter of a teaspoonful of salt; pour this under your joint, turn 
 it over; when hot, turn over twice, and carve; it will make a 
 rich gravy. Serve the potatoes round, or separate; the pudding 
 | to be served on a hot dish. | 
 i By chopping the bone small, good broth and soup may be 
 -made. If the oven happens to be too hot, cover the joint with 
 2 piece or two of plain paper, well greased. 
 A piece of meat weighing about eight pounds, will take 
 _ from one hour and twenty to ‘thirty minutes, giving always as a 
 rule from ten to twelve minutes to every pound of meat, for 
 joints of from six to twelve pounds. 
 Any other piece of beef of an inferior part, requires to be 
 baked slowly, allowing fifteen minutes to every pound, and if too 
 lean, may be larded, as. No. 459. 
 
 - 2. For a Leg of Pork.—Peei six apples, six onions, and 
 twelve potatoes; put the apples and onions at the bottom of the 
 ‘dish, adding half a pint of coloured water, a teaspoonful of salt, 
 one of sugar, half one of pepper; lay the potatoes on the grating, 
 the meat over; give fifteen minutes to every pound of meat. 
 ‘Half a pint of sage and onion sauce may be poured over the 
 apples and onions previous to baking. Any joint of pork may 
 be stuffed with sage and onions. 
 
 38. Millet of Veal.—I have also tried the following :—Prepare 
 a fillet, which stuff; oil a sheet or two of cleat paper; cut in 
 slices four ounces of bacon, two onions, one catrot, one turnip, 4 
 ‘little celery, if handy, a little thyme and bay leaf; wiap up thé 
 veal and the above in the paper, and bake for two howrs; wheti 
 done, take out the veal and serve with vegetables round it. It 
 will be delicious; pray let me know your opinion. 
 
 | Any part of veal may be done the same. Fried bacon may | 
 be served, with it. | 
 
ne 
 
 96 ON BAKING MEAT IN OVEN. 
 
 Also half a pint of melted butter, one tablespoonful of ketchup, q 
 two of Harvey’s sauce, well mixed; pour round and ser've. 
 
 4. To bake Mutton.—Proceed as for beef, time according to — 
 ' size, putting under a Yorkshire pudding, or some rice boiled 
 with curry in it, or boiled French haricot beans, which I have 
 used for a change now and then. TI also put a piece of pudding- © 
 paste, half way: up the knuckle of a leg of mutton, which pre- — 
 vents it getting dry, that being so much thinner than the other — 
 part. : 
 Loin and shoulder the same; if a piece happens to be lean — 
 and dry, butter it over, cover it with paste, and bake as usual. 
 The shoulder, baked, like the leg of pork, is good with apples, — 
 potatoes, and onions. 4 
 . 
 
 5. Lamb, being very delicate, allow only ten minutes per — 
 pound for the ribs, the same for the shoulder, twelve minutes — 
 for the leg. Spinach, peas, asparagus, and sprouts, are best with — 
 lamb. . 
 
 Allkinds of poultry may be done the same, though roast them — 
 by all means, if you can; but if wrapped up in paper, as for 
 fillet of veal, No. 3. in abe series, it will be excellent baked. 
 
 6. Vegetables with baked Meat.—My new plan of cooking 
 vegetables with baked meat is as follows: :—Scrape, wash, and — 
 pub i in pieces two pounds of carrots, boil them in salt and water 
 _ till three parts done, drain them in cullender, then put them at 
 the bottom of your dish, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, , 
 half that of pepper, add half a pint of coloured water, then — 
 place the potatoes on the grating, the meat on the trevet, and 
 bake as above.* é 
 Any such joints as sirloin, skirt, edgebone, or any other piece 4 
 of beef, weighing from eight to ten pounds, should have a tea= 
 spoonful of salt sprinkled over, rubbing on also a little fat or ~ 
 
 f 
 ‘ 
 i, 
 
 * In the way of vegetables for beef, I have tried turnips, Jert« a 
 - galem artichokes, parsnips, &e. Also for veal, lamb, and mutton, — 
 spinach, greens, cauliflowers, Brussels sprouts, all parboiled and well — 
 drained. A pint of second class batter, added to either the parsnips, — a 
 artichokes, turnips, carrots, peas, asparagus, &c., using only one pound — 
 
 instead of two, but quite boiled, and omitting the gravy, either of i 
 these will turn out like a pudding. i 
 
i 
 
 MEAT PUDDINGS. 
 
 . putter ; roast as above, dish it up with the gravy, taking off the 
 fat, if any, serving the carrots and potatoes with it or separate. 
 
 7. Another Way.—TIf an ordinary dish, put the potatoes over: 
 the carrots, also a few onions sliced, and the beef on trevet, as usual. 
 When the meat has been too lean, put a piece of fat on the top, 
 and cover the beef with a coating of pudding-paste, No. 319. 
 When done remove the paste, and brown the meat with a shovel, 
 like. you would do venison; both meat and paste are excellent, 
 the meat being full of gravy. 
 
 MEAT PUDDINGS. 
 
 233. Puddings.—Although the same word with the same 
 meaning exists in all European languages, yet it may properly 
 be said to be peculiarly English, as pudding has become quite a 
 national dish. The various counties of England have each a 
 particular way of making them, and it is almost impossible to 
 give any method hitherto untried. 
 
 The first most important point is never to use any meat that 
 is tainted, for in pudding, above all other dishes, it is least 
 possible to disguise the confined process which the ingredients 
 undergo; the gradual heating of the meat, which alone would 
 
 accelerate decomposition, will cause the smallest piece of tainted 
 
 meat to contaminate all the rest. Be particular that the suet 
 and fat are not rancid, ever remembering the grand principle, 
 that everything which gratifies the palate nourishes. 
 
 Tainted meat, you will justly say, is bad in whatever way it 
 may be cooked; true, but take a joint which, in the middle of 
 summer, from some trifling cause, has some ‘small part a little 
 tainted, and which is often sold cheap to those who cannot afford 
 to purchase better, this, by the worst part being cut away, 
 rubbed with a piece of charcoal, if for roasting, or a piece of 
 charcoal put into the water, if for boiling, ala once renders it 
 sweet; but our great national dish cannot be subjected to this 
 process. Although the tastes of all people differ; some may like 
 
 the haut gott of high venison or the wild fowl, and possibly 
 
 might like the same in pudding, yet *41s our duty here to 
 point out those things which are nourishing, and likewisa 
 those that are not; therefore, I here send you some receipts 
 which will please everybody’s taste, everybody’s palate, and, I 
 hope, everybody’s pocket. 
 
 H 
 
98 MEAT PUDDINGS, 1 a 
 
 234, Beef Pudding. —Take about one pound of. ace cub i: a 
 pele age in three pieces, and then slantways at each inch, 
 instead of in lumps; but should you buy cuttings of meat a 
 the butchers, then remove all the sinew and over fat, and cut 
 the large pieces slantways, put them in a dish, and sprinkle 
 over with a teaspoonful of salt, a half ditto of pepper, and a tea- 
 spoonful of flour, the same of chopped onions; mix well 
 together, make six or eight ounces of paste as No. 319; roll it to 
 the thickness of a quarter of an inch, or a little more, put 
 pudding-cloth in a basin, sprinkle some flour over it, lay in your” 
 paste, and then the meat, together with a few pieces of fat; 
 when full put in three wineglasses of water; turn the paste over 
 the meat, so as not to form a lump, but well closed; then tie the 
 cloth, not too close on the paste, or it will not be light;. boil it 
 fast in four quarts of water for one hour; take it out, let it stand 
 a few minutes to cool the cloth, cut the strmg, turn back the 
 cloth, place a dish on the top, and turn it over on it, remove the 
 cloth, and serve. 
 
 235.—If you choose to add a kidney it may add to the 
 richness of the gravy, also a few oysters, or even a mushroom. 
 The crust should always be cut with a knife. 
 
 If you carefully follow the above instructions you will have a a 
 
 pudding quite perfect, the paste as light and as white as snow, 
 and the meat tender, with a thick gravy. 
 
 236.— Observation. You will perhaps be surprised that I recommend 
 it to be boiled fast instead of simmering. I do so, because the meat, 
 being enclosed in the paste, and sometimes in a basin, is alone subject 
 to the action of simmering in its own gravy. These puddings lose a 
 less amount of nourishment in cooking than any other kind, In a 
 large pudding a few sliced potatoes is not bad. This may truly be 
 considered as much a national dish as roast beef and plum pudding, 
 and being so, it is surprising that it is so often made badly, and indi- 
 gestible: the pieces of meat and fat often cut two inches square, 
 instead of smaller pieces; the pudding, sometimes left half out of the 
 water, the crust becomes hard and black, and the meat very dry. 
 
 237. Roast Beef Pudding. —Any remains. of cold. roast. beef 
 
 may be done as follows: mince about one “pound of cooked meat 
 
 cut in dice, put on a dish, add one teaspoonful of salt, half that | 
 of pepper, one of flour; fill your paste with it, add a gill of | 
 
 "water; cover over as usual, shake it well, tie it up in a cloth, | 
 
j fone PUDDINGS. 99 
 
 ig ; and boil for half an hour, and serve. A ila chopped onions or | 
 parsley may be introduced. 
 
 xX 238. Another Way. —Proceed as above, bite add for every | 
 / pound of meat two ounces of either gherkins, pickled walnuts, \ 
 \or mushrooms, chopped fine or sliced. 
 
 239. Mince Beef Pudding with Egqs.—Proceed as above; 
 omit the pickles, adding boiled ham or fried bacon instead, cut 
 in dice, also add two hard-boiled eggs cut in dice; mix all — 
 together ; boil as above, white satice over; or melted butter. 
 
 240. Veal Pudding. —Cut two pounds of raw veal, four ounces 3 
 of ham, or Jean bacon; season delicately with a teaspoonful of 
 salt, the half of pepper, a little flour and chopped parsley, a gill 
 of water; proceed as for the other puddings, boil two hours, and 
 serve. 
 
 241. Calves’ Brain and Tongue of any kind, previously 
 cooked.—Soak and wash a brain clean, boil it for a quarter of 
 an hour in a quart of water, in which has been added a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, and a little vinegar, if handy. 
 Let it get cold, then mould the pudding; cut the brain in half- 
 inch slices, lay thin slices of tongue, previously cooked, on the 
 bottom, then of brain; season with salt, pepper, parsley, and a 
 little chopped onions ; continue until full; then mix a teaspoonful - 
 of flour with a gill and a half of milk, or water, and pour in; 
 close the pudding, and boil one hour and serve. Cut it with a 
 knife. Two hard-boiled eggs cut in slices, would improve it; also 
 a little gherkin, chopped fine, will vary the flavour. | 
 
 242. Sheep's, Lamb's, and Pig’s Brains, and Tongue Pud- 
 dings.—Proceed as for Calves’, but will not take quite so long in 
 cooking. 
 
 243. Calves’ Head and Tongue.—The remains of any from a 
 previous dinner can be used for puddings with or without a little 
 brain: proceed as for brain pudding. A little eurry powder 
 added. will improve it. 
 
 This will produce a better effect on the table as a pudding, 
 than a common hash; for the great principle in ae is to 
 please the eye, as wail as the palate. 
 
 244. Lamb, Veal,ov Pork Liver Pudding.—Cut one pound 
 Hq 2 
 
100 MEAT PUDDINGS. 
 
 of liver in slices, also two ounces of bacon; season with a tea« 
 
 spoonful of salt, a half of pepper, one chopped onion, one of | be 
 
 parsley ; mix it well with the bacon, dip each piece of liver in 
 some flour, and lay the liver and bacon in the pudding, with a 
 gill and a half of water; boilone hour. A teaspoonful of colour- 
 ing mixed with the water will give a rich appearance to all 
 pudding gravies. 
 
 245. The same, a plainer Way.—Cut one pound of liver and P 
 
 two ounces of bacon into dice, a quarter of an inch square; 
 season with only salt, pepper, and onions, a spoonful of flour, and 
 a gill and a half of water; lay it in the pudding, and boil as 
 before. Stuffing No. 464 may be mixed with it. 
 
 246. Liver and Kidney Pudding.—Put in a frying-pan two 
 ounces of dripping, two ounces of bacon, in dice; put it on the 
 fire; when the liver and Jkidney are seasoned, ola it in the pan, 
 and stir round until it is set; each piece should be firm; then 
 add a tablespoonful of flour, nigel with a gill anda half of 
 coloured water, No. 4624. When nearly boiling, place it in the 
 pudding, tie up, and boil three quarters of an hour. A few herbs 
 is a variation. 
 
 247. Mutton Pudding.—Chump of mutton is the best part ~ 
 to make into pudding, which cut in slices as for beef pudding; 
 in case it is very fat, add potatoes, and proceed the same. 
 
 248. Sheep’s Head, Tongue, and Trotters, previously cooked, 
 may be made into a very nice pudding, proceeding:as usual. 
 A few pickled walnuts, sliced, may be aided. 
 
 249. Lamb Pudding.—Take the breast, and remove the big 
 bones; cut it crossways, season lightly ; ; have some veal » stufling 
 ready, and lay the meat and stuffing in alternate layers in the 
 pudding, with a gill and a half of tae to every pound ; boil one 
 hour and a half; serve with melted butter over the pudding, and 
 a little chopped parsley on the top; it has an inviting effect. 
 
 Any part of the lamb may be done the same way. 
 
 250. Pork Pudding.—Get about a pound of pork, as lean as 
 
 possible; any cuttings will do; cut them into slices; season with 
 
 a little chopped sage, a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper; - 
 
 roll the pieces up, and put them in the pudding with a few slices 
 
MEAT PUDDINGS, 101 
 
 of potatoes, onions, one apple; add a gill and a half of water; 
 cover as usual, and boil for one hour and a half. 
 
 251. Rabbit Pudding.—A rabbit cut into about sixteen or 
 eighteen pieces, and a quarter of a pound of bacon, sliced; season 
 in proportion to size, as before, and if for a numerous family, add 
 ten potatoes and four onions, sliced, and half a pint of water ; boil 
 for two hours, or according to size. Boiled rice may be added 
 instead of potatoes. Well intermix the meat with the vegetables 
 or rice. 
 
 252. Chicken Pudding.—Cut one into eight pieces, half a | 
 pound of bacon, cut into slices; season with one teaspoonful of 
 salt, half of pepper, two of chopped parsley, a little thyme, and 
 one captain’s biscuit, well broken; fill the pudding with the 
 meat, add half a pint of milk, boil for one hour and a half; 
 serve with melted butter over, and chopped parsley on the top. 
 
 ¥ 253. Pigeon Pudding.—Pluck, draw, and stuff two pigeons | 
 
 with the stuffing No. 464; then cut some large thin slices of beef, - 
 and some of the bacon; season well; roll the pigeons in the meat , 
 and bacon, lay them in the pudding; boil four eggs hard, cut: 
 them into quarters, and fill the cavities with them; mix a tea- i 
 spoonful of flour with half a pint of milk, or water, close up, and \ 
 boil for one hour and a half, and serve. } 
 
 The same in Brown Gravy.—Add a tablespoonful of colour- 
 ing, a little more salt and pepper. | 
 
 Young wood-pigeons may be done the same way, but will 
 take half an hour longer doing. 
 
 254. Partridge and Cabbage Pudding.—Cut a Savoy cab- 
 bage into four pieces, removing some of the outside leaves; boil 
 it for ten minutes, let if get-cold, press the water out, cut 
 off the thick root, and cut the other in slices; then stuff the 
 partridge as No. 464, place slides of bacon round it, lay some 
 cabbage in the pudding, paste as. usual, season the partridge, and 
 lay it in with six or eight button onions, then the remainder of 
 the cabbage, a gill of brown gravy, No. 2, or coloured water, No. 
 462 a: boil two hours, if an old bird, or one and a half, if young. 
 
 255. Young Rook Pudding.—If these young inhabitants of 
 the woods and forests are eatable in pies, I do not see why we 
 should not give them, after their wild career, a soft bed of repose 
 
 s 
 
102 ' MEAT PUDDINGS, 
 
 in a pudding crust. Open them by the back, then draw them, 
 
 divide them into two, and then into quarters; extract the big — 
 
 bones, leaving the flesh only; beat each piece flat, and season 
 
 with salt, pepper, and a little grated ginger; make a stufling 
 
 ' with the liver, No. 4643. Lay on the crust a slice of bacon, then 
 
 the birds, then a slice of steak; season with any aromatic herbs, 
 
 or chopped onions, leeks or mushrooms; add a gill of ale, or 
 
 wine, gravy or water; boil one hour and a half, and serve. 
 Pigeons may be done in the same way. 
 
 256. Fish Pudding.—Take two pounds of cod fish, eut in 
 slices about the size of five-shilling pieces, half an inch thick ; 
 fill the bowl with the paste, as usual, lay some of the fish on the 
 bottom, season with salt, pepper, a little chopped parsley, onions, 
 a little flour and pieces of the liver, if any, then the fish, and 
 so on until full; add a gill of milk or water, shake it well, tie up, 
 and boil one hour, and serve. A little bay leaf and thyme may 
 be added, if handy. 
 
 All fish may be done the same way, varying the flavour 
 according to taste. 
 
 257. Fish Pudding, a plainer Way.—Cut one pound of any 
 fish in small pieces, season with salt and pepper on a dish, a 
 little flavour; mix well, put in the paste with a gill of water, and 
 if you have a wine-glass full of any fish sauce, add it, cover 
 up, boil one hour, and serve. 
 
 258, Mackerel Pudding.—Cut off the heads of two mackerel, 
 cut each one in four pieces, keeping the roe in; fill the pudding 
 with the pieces, season with salt, pepper, a little chopped onions 
 and fennel, add a gill of water, boil one hour, and serve with 
 fennel sauce over. 
 
 259. Eel Pudding.—Cut in long pieces, season with salt, 
 pepper, chopped onions, parsley; add a gill of water; wine or 
 beer is very good, and proceed as for the others, 
 
 260. Baked Puddings.—My excellent friend, you must be of 
 the same opinion as the rest of the world, namely, that variety 
 is charming in almost every movement of life, therefore you will 
 not object to my new proposal to send it to the baker’s; when 
 
 the oven is at a moderate heat, they will be found excellent, | 
 
 eating different to a pie. The cloth of course is not required, 
 
 % 
 
*. 
 
 MEAT PIES. WY : 7 103 
 
 | étiky grease the basin ; lay on the paste when the contents are in; 
 
 make the paste meet equally on the top, moisten with water, roll 
 out another piece about a quarter of an inch thick, put it over 
 when fit, and cut away the trimmings from the edge of the 
 basin, egg it over, bake in a slow oven, giving about the same 
 time as you would for boiling; when done, shake the basin 
 well, to make the gravy the same thickness throughout, oe 
 serve, turning it out on a dish; perforate the top. 
 
 261. Puddings half steamed and boiled—Put in a pan a 
 quart of water, when boiling, put your basin in with the pudding 
 in it, boil gently one hour or more, according to what your 
 pudding is made of; add boiling water occasionally, so as always 
 to keep the same quantity in the pot. By having previously 
 well buttered the basin, when done, by passing a knife between 
 the paste and the basin, you may turn or cut it out, and pour 
 
 ‘over any appropriate sauce you like. They may also be steamed, 
 
 as now almost every kitchen possesses steam pans, in connexion 
 with the boiler of the range; or put some water in our new 
 baking-pan, put in the pudding, and send to the oven. 
 
 IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS ON THE ABOVE RECEIPTS. 
 
 I must not forget to tell you, Eloise, that any of the above sort 
 of puddings, no matter what made of, if sweet or savoury, is prefer- 
 able made ina basin to being put in a cloth, which is often very dirty 
 in appearance; while, if boiled in a basin, the paste receives all the © 
 nutriment of the meat, which, if boiled in a cloth, would evaporate 
 in the water, if by neglect it ceases boiling. If you wish to turn it 
 well out, thoroughly grease the inside of your basin when making. 
 
 On Pudding Cloths —A pudding cloth, however coarse, 
 ought never to be washed with soap; it should be dried as 
 quickly as possible, and kept dry and free from dust, and in a 
 draw or cupboard free from smell. 
 
 MEAT PIES, 
 
 Previous to making any pie do not omit reading the very important 
 remarks I have made at the introduction of fruit pies, see Index. 
 
 262. Beefsteak Pie. — Cut two pounds of steak into about 
 twenty thin pieces, lengthways, fat included, season them with 
 two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, and a little chopped 
 herbs, and place them symmetrically on the dish, forming it high 
 
 Tle Lee eee ae nn tee RY ee ae ee rey re, OP, the) ee 
 i 5 - Poa f roe 7 * i 1% 
 
ral 
 vacant 
 
 eS a 
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 4 
 
 104° MEAT PIES, 
 
 in the centre. Add half a pint of water, in which has been put 
 
 two tablespoonfuls of colouring. Cover over with paste (No. 317) 
 half an inch thick, and bake for one hour in a slow oven. Pud- 
 ding paste No. 319 may be used. For variety of pie-dishes see 
 appendix. 
 
 A little stuffing rolled up in the meat makes a change, and is 
 fit for the best table. 
 
 A. few spoonfuls of Harvey’s sauce is likewise a change. 
 
 263. Hamily Steak Pie.—Take and cut two pounds of beef 
 in slices, two pounds ‘of potatoes, a quarter of a pound of onions 5 
 season with three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper ; mix it 
 | well together; put the meat and potatoes into the pie-dish, in’ 
 attain layers; add a pint of water; cover over, as above, 
 
 and bake for one hour and a half. 
 
 264. Veal Pie.—Delicate veal and ham pies can be made 
 like the above, rolling up the veal and a little ham, or bacon, 
 together, and a little stuffing, if handy. Proceed as for steak, 
 or as for family steak-pies. , 
 
 Pork pies may be made in the same way. 
 
 265. Rabbit Pie. —Cut the rabbit up as for pudding 
 
 (No. 251); ¥OI the pieces in flour, then put them in the pie- 
 dish, with some slices of ham or bacon; season: with salt, 
 pepper, chopped onions, nutmeg, (grated, if handy), according 
 to size; add half-a-pint of water cover, and bake. <A tea- 
 gponntal of curry may be added, instead of pepper. 
 
 For family rabbit pie proceed as for family steak pie. 
 
 266. Fish Pre—Proceed in every way as for puddings, and 
 bake one hour. Oysters, muscles, perrywinkles, cockles, &c., 
 may be used. 
 
 267. Hare Pie.—If it is a large hare it is best to jug it, as 
 No. 216, cut in half crossways. Save the back and legs for 
 roasting, and with the front part, which cut in pieces, make 
 the pie. Put some steak at the bottom of the dish, with salt, 
 pepper, and chopped onions; dip each piece of hare in flour, lay 
 them on the steak, make some small balls of veal stuffing, which 
 place in various places; cover over with more steak; add half 
 a-pint of water ; finish with paste as usual. When baked, shake 
 the dish to mix the gravy, The addition of a glass of wine, a 
 
VEGETABLES. 105 
 
 A Piss herbs, and two teaspoonfuls ‘of currant jelly, is a great 
 4 improvement. 
 
 268. The Artisan’s Pie—Any pieces of meat, but not too 
 fat—four ounces of fat to every pound of meat is enough. Take 
 two pounds of meat cut in slices, season it with three Pha noot 
 
 y of salt, one of pepper, four sliced onions; peel four pounds 
 
 otatoes,.cut in thick. slicés; which “place” on the bottom of 
 e dish, then a layer of potatoes, then the meat; season well; 
 add a pint of water, and bake for two hours. 
 
 Trimmings of meat of all kinds may be purchased in every 
 large town, especially in London, and are the proper pieces for 
 such economical pies; in buying them, take care there is none 
 tainted, as it will produce the effect as described in introduction 
 of puddings. Cover with crust, as No. 319. 
 
 269. Poor Man’s Potatoe Pie.—Wash and peel six pounds. 
 
 of potatoes, cut them in slices; take half-a- pound of the fatof- 
 mutton or beef, or dripping, cut into small dice; season the 
 
 with paste, No. 3194, and bake one hour and a half. 
 A bloater, boned and cut up with the fat, makes a nice 
 change of flavour. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 As I have before remarked, the food of man, in order to give | 
 
 proper nourishment, should be often varied; in fact, his health 
 depends upon it, and nature seems to have given him those instru- 
 - ments, the teeth, by which he is enabled to masticate both animal and 
 
 vegetable food, besides having provided him abundantly with vegetable © 
 
 produce, which seems the balance, in point of health, between that 
 and rich animal food. . It is to be regretted that the labouring poor 
 of this country do not partake of more vegetables than they do at 
 _ present. If we travel over the country, we are surprised to find 
 _ how small a portion of ground is engaged in horticulture; the con- 
 _ sequence is that, excepting near large towns, scarcely a vegetable is 
 to be obtained, and the poor are doomed to live almost entirely on 
 | bread and cheese and a small portion of animal food, not even a 
 
 | potatoe is to be had during the winter and spring of the year. It is, 
 
 _ said by some, that the climate being colder than on the continent, 
 _ the blood requires more heating food, and that in the summer the 
 _ English are as much vegetable eaters ag their neighbours; if such 
 
 a tos ae an meee al ay eens | + Pe Pn PN ES Be eee | ae oe 
 Peel 
 
 | 
 i 
 
 : 
 § 
 B 
 
106 VEGETABLES, — : 
 
 is the case, why not, then, add to the vegetables, in cooking them, 
 those elements which would give all that animal food does. - a 
 
 The most important of all the produce of the field is wheat, but = 
 that we shall treat of hereafter, under the head of bread. ‘The most 
 important of vegetable produce is the potato, a root the failure 
 of whose growth produced a famine in one of the most productive — 
 countries in the world. It is a root in universal use, and yet is 
 acknowledged to be by every one the least understood how to be cooked. 
 A writer in a public journal, the other day, speaking of a well-boiled 
 potato, says “that at present it is a thing purely ideal—it has never 
 come out of the pot, in the experience of living man.” And why ? 
 Because people boil all potatoes alike. If you ask Betty why she 
 boiled the potatoes in such a manner, she answers, “ My mother, or 
 my sister, did so, and they were good.” And so with everybody, 
 little thinking that almost every potato differs; even the produce of — 
 the same seed will often differ in the same field. This is caused by 
 the different soils, and the different manures applied to those soils. 
 
 The present potato is quite a different root from its parent one, 
 which grows in the Caribbean islands. 
 
 Animal food, although’ flesh, differs in its nature, and requires 
 different cookery. A Welsh or a Kerry leg of mutton requires to be ~ 
 treated quite different to a Leicestershire or Southdown. ; 
 
 Thus it is with the potato. Some require quick boiling, others 
 slow ; some plenty of water, others little; some are best baked in 
 their skins, others peeled; some large ones require to be cut in two, 
 others will spoil if cut; and so on through all the various gradations. 
 
 I therefore consider it requisite, that if a potato is found not to 
 be good by one system ‘of boiling or steaming, to try another. — 
 Boiling, as I have said before, is the most simple process of cookery, — 
 and it is easily tried. 
 
 ae ee ee A EN ee ne ee a a eae des 
 
 Potato boiled.—Meg Dods says there are great varieties of 
 potatoes, and fully as many ways of cooking them, but recom- — 
 mends boiling in preference to steaming. Mrs. Rundell prefers ~ 
 steaming, or, if boiled, in plenty of water, and when half done, ~ 
 some cold water and salt thrown in, and’ boil until not quite ~ 
 done, and then left in the pot near the fire.* 
 
 * This is the Irish peasant’s way (if he wishes to fast for six hours), 
 as it leaves the bone or moon in it. The origin of the word in Irish, 
 au ghealeach, is that, when a half-cooked potato is cut in two, the ~ 
 centre shows a disk, with a halo around it, like the moon. This © ; 
 does not digest so quick, and allows the person who eats it to go — 
 longer without food, which I consider a great detriment to the coating gy 
 of the stomach. 4 
 
re 2 6050) 8 5 gt A tee ee 
 Me ie ee 
 , a 2 - 
 
 ‘VEGETABLES, < aon 107 
 
 Mrs. Wie says, Boil i in as little water as possible, without 
 Poscsing the saucepan, 
 
 | Mrs. Acton gives only the Lancashire way; this is, ola 
 _ and boiled slowly; when done, salt thrown over, and then the 
 _ pot shook violently for some time, so that they are broken. She 
 
 remarks that this method is not economical. 
 
 Having given these, it is only right I should give my ideas. 
 As I have before said, they all, perhaps, require a different 
 system. If steamed, salt should be thrown into the water, and 
 not on the potato, and when done, remove the steamer, and also 
 the cover. 
 
 270. How to choose Potatoes.—Observe, as a general rule, 
 that the smaller the eye, the better the potato, as when they 
 are too full in the eye they are either of an inferior quality, or 
 are running to seed. To ascertain if they are sound, nip a 
 piece from the thickest end with your finger nail; if good, the 
 inside will either be of a white, yellow, or reddish hue, according 
 to the sort and quality; if, on the contrary, they are spotted, 
 they are bad, or gettine so; but though this part may be 
 slightly touched, by cutting a little off the outside they may 
 prove fit for boiling; though they ought to be bought, when in 
 this state, at a cheap rate. Potatoes always get bad in the 
 
 spring of the year, as then the old ones are going out, and the 
 new ones for some time continue to possess but little flavour, 
 and are watery when boiled. The old ones ought to be peeled 
 and steamed, and mashed, or baked in an oven, under a joint, 
 or fried in fat, as No. 298; for when done whole in their skins. 
 _ at this time of the year, the slightest spot spoils their flavour, 
 The new ones are tasteless and watery, and, as I described above 
 to you, are much better cooked when put in very hot water, but 
 not boiling, than when put in cold, 
 
 271.—If boiled, it may be that they require to be put into 
 boiling water, or, may be, in cold, and either boiled quick or slow, 
 but this you must find out. Choose all about the same size, with 
 a smooth skin, and when they are boiled and begin to crack, 
 throw off the water immediately, as it only damages the root. 
 _ Stand near the fire, with a cloth on, and serve in skin. Salt 
 should be put into the water at the beginning. A watery 
 potato will require quick boiling, and sometimes to be put in 
 boiling water. If very watery, and they will not boil mealy, 
 
108 | VEGETABLES, ene “4 
 
 put them into the pot in their skins, fill up with water, and a G 
 piece of lime the size of a nut, and they will turn out mealy. It — 
 
 is unnecessary here to explain scientifically the cause of this. 
 
 272. New Potatoes—Should be cleaned, and the skin rubbed | 
 
 off with a coarse cloth; add a little salt if the skin is dry. Put 
 them into very hot water, and boil from fifteen to twenty 
 
 RO ee ee ee a 
 
 minutes. Take them out of the water and let them drain — 
 
 before sending to table, throwing some salt over them. If very 
 small they will not take above ten minutes. 
 
 273. Baked Potatoes, with the skin on, should be chosen a 
 
 large size (regents), placed in a slow oven and so that they do not 
 
 touch ; or if in a Duch or American oven, before the fire, they — 
 
 should be turned often; they will take from one and a half to 
 two hours.’ If without their skins, they should be done in a 
 brown pan with fat, turning them occasionally. 
 
 274. Baked Potato with Sausage (called Soyer’s Potato).— — 
 
 Take a large potato and cut out a round piece as big as a shil- 
 
 ling, through the potato; put in the scoop and remove some of 
 
 the inside, fill this with sausage-meat or veal stuffing, cover the 
 hole with a part of what you cut out, and bake with cut part 
 uppermost. 
 
 275. Mashed Potatoes.—After having boiled twelve middling 
 sized potatoes until mealy, peel them, if with the skins on, and 
 remove the eyes or specks; put them into a bowl, and take two 
 forks in one hand, with the points of the prongs turned out- 
 
 wards; break the potatoes up with them; when breaking, add 
 
 an ounce of butter and a gill of milk or a little more to them, 
 and half a teaspoonful of salt, to every pound, and a pinch of 
 pepper; they should be beat a great deal, until they become 
 quite light; they should never be hard like paste, as is often 
 the case when stirred with a spoon. 
 
 Potatoes, if large, might be peeled, and cut in four pieces, 
 
 put in boiling water with some salt, boiled rather fast, and well 
 
 drained when done; let the pan stand near the fire to dry your © 
 
 ‘potatoes—three minutes will do it—and mash them as above. 
 
 276. New Roasted Potato——This should be a large potato qq 
 —the kidney kind preferred—should be half boiled, the skin © 
 
 remove, put into a baking dish, well rubbed with butter or fat 
 
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 VEGETABLES. LOOM 
 
 and pea with a little flour, salt and pepper, and put into 
 _ the oven, or * before the fire, either in an American or Dutch 
 
 oven, until done; they ought to be of a nice brown colour, and 
 are very velishine: 
 
 277. Jexusalem Artichoke should be well washed and peeled, 
 and put into a saucepan of warm water, with salt in it; boil till 
 tender, then serve them up; if to be mashed, mash them at once, 
 with salt, pepper, and butter; if whole, keep them coveredruntil 
 served. Melted butter over improves.the look. 
 
 They may be mashed with a little gravy; put in a dish, 
 bread-crumbed over, and put in the oven, and are very nice. 
 
 Or they can be treated in every way like turnips. 
 
 278. Turnips.—Peel them, and) boil in plenty of water, in 
 which has been put some salt; boil till tender, and serve either 
 _ whole, or mashed. If mashed, they should be put in a saucepan . 
 over the fire, with a bit of butter, or some milk, salt, and, a 
 _ little pepper, and a pinch of sugar, mashed up until rather dry, 
 and serve. 
 
 A few capers mixed in the mashed turnip, is an improvement 
 for boiled mutton. 
 
 279. Swedes.—This was a vegetable in very little use for the 
 table until the year of the famine in Ireland, when M. Soyer 
 | prepared. it for the viceroy’s table. It should be treated in every 
 way like turnip, but cut into quarters for boiling. The middle 
 
 size are only fit to use. 
 
 280. Carrot.—This root varies quite as much as the potato ; : 
 some are quickly done, even in twenty minutes, and some require 
 _ two hours. They should be scraped, aid boiled in water and 
 salt; served cut in quarter's lengthways. 
 
 281. Parsnip and the White Carrot.—The same as the 
  tarrot. 
 
 982. Red and White Beet.—These should be washed, but 
 not scraped, and put into the pot with the skin on; when done, 
 _ which is known by pressing the thick part, to see if it is soft, 
 or by probing it with a skewer; remove the skin, cut it into 
 _ Slices, put it in a pan, with either gravy, butter, or milk, and a 
 _ little vinegar, salt and pepper, boil it up, and serve. It is also 
 _ good when cold, for salads. 
 
phd): VEGETABLES, 
 
 ' FIRST AND GENERAL LESSON IN THE COOKING OF 
 ALL KINDS OF VEGETABLES. ——- 
 
 283. Asparagus is a vegetable between the root and the plant; — 
 and requires more cooking, like the latter. It shquld be well 
 scraped at the bottom part, tie them up in bundles of not more 
 than twelve heads, have ready a pot of water, say three quarts for 
 every hundred heads, in which you have placed one table- 
 spoonful of salt, and if the water is hard half a teaspoonful of 
 carbonate of soda; if they are a good size boil for twenty 
 minutes, and serve with a slice of toasted bread under, and 
 melted butter separate, or cream sauce No. 424. 
 
 This, when cold, is very good with oil and vinegar, salt and 2 
 pepper. 
 
 The small, called sprew, is very excellent broken small in 
 clear soup. 
 
 _ 284, Celery.—Dress like asparagus, cutting off the green, 
 leaving the branches six inches long; serve on toast, with melted 
 butter or brown gravy over, tying three or four sticks together. | 
 
 Sea Kale.—Clean the root and boil like asparagus, and serve | 
 the same on toast, with either melted butter or cream sauce over 
 
 285. Green Cabbage and Savoys. —These elose-leaf plants 
 require well washing and soaking in salt and water before 
 boiling; the stems should be removed, and then boiled in half a_ 
 gallon of water, with two teaspoonfuls of salt and a little soda 
 These proportions will do for all vegetables. If the plants are 
 large they should be cut in four. 
 
 286. Sprouts, Spring Greens, Turnip Tops, §e—These 
 only require washing before boiling, and boil till tender in the 
 same quantity of water as above. | 
 
 287. Stewed Cabbage or Savoys.—Cit in thin slices, wash, 
 drain, and boil till tender; dram them free from’ water ; put into 
 a clean pot two ounces of butter or fat, and a little salt and 
 pepper; when hot add the cabbage, and stir it well until nearly 
 dry, then throw over a tablespoonful of flour, keep stirring, and 
 then add a cupful of either broth, milk, or isa let boil ten 3 
 minutes, and serve. 
 
picked off; boil a quarter of a sieve in the same quantity of |. 
 water as above for ten minutes; take out, drain, press with the 
 
 hands or plate to remove the water, and serve it as plain greens ; 
 or put it on a clean board, and chop it fine, put it in a stew-pan, 
 with a quarter of a pound of good butter or fat, a teaspoonful of 
 salt, two of flour, half of pepper; place it on the fire, with two 
 gills of milk or broth, for a few minutes, and serve with toast 
 round. More strong gravy may be added, or even milk or cream. 
 
 989. Green Peas.—This, of all the pulse vegetables, is the 
 most liked, and the most in use; and perhaps in no country in 
 ‘Europe can they be obtained in the same perfection as in 
 England. 
 
 The water should be boiling, and say one quart of peas to 
 two quarts of water, with the same amount of salt as before; 
 put the peas in, leave the cover off, and boil till tender; drain, 
 and serve, with a piece of butter put on the dish. If sain or 
 savory is liked, add it while boiling. 
 
 290. Broad or Windsor Beans.—The appearance of this 
 vegetable is generally spoiled because it is boiled with a piece of 
 bacon; they ought to be boiled alone like the peas, and very 
 fast, and if young do not take longer. They should be served — 
 with parsley and butter. When the skin is wrinkled they are 
 
 done. 
 
 291. French and Kidney Beans.—Head, tail, and string 
 them; cut them down in thin strips, or in the middle, throw 
 them into boiling water, in which a little more salt than usual 
 has been put; boil for fifteen minutes, and serve either plain or 
 with parsley and butter, and a little pepper and salt. 
 
 _ These are skins of the pulse, and are considered exceedingly 
 wholesome for persons who take much exercise, and eat freely of 
 animal food; they purify the salt of the blood. 
 
 292. Brocoli and Cauliflower should be put in salt and 
 ‘water some time before cooking, and require close examination, 
 that no insects are inside; cut off the root and the large leaves ; 
 they should be boiled in boiling water, and will take about ten 
 minutes. There are a variety of ways of using these vegetables, 
 but in general a little too complicated for our “work, 
 
 s 288. Ee . requires to be well washed, and the stalks i 
 
112 “VEGETABLES. 
 
 293. Califlo wer and Brocoli, with Cheese Sauce.—Boil two 
 or three middle-sized cauliflowers, make half a pint of thick 
 melted butter, adding a little cayenne pepper, if handy, grate 
 four ounces of good “cheese, Cheshire preferable; mix this well 
 with the sauce, a when boiling pour over the cauliflower or — 
 brocoli; set either in an oven or before the fire for fifteen 
 minutes, until it gets brown; the yolk of an egg may be added ; 
 bread-crumb over, andserve. Ifno grater, cut your cheese fine, 
 it will melt in boiling. | 
 
 Jerusalem artichokes, Scotch kail, and Brussels sprouts, are 
 also very nice done this way. 
 
 PLANT CALLED THE THOUSAND HEADS. 
 
 ON seeing this plant growing in great abundance in Yorkshire, I 
 inquired of the farmer on whose land they were—if they were a 
 vegetable for the table, and their name? when he informed me that 
 they were intended for spring feeding for sheep, during the lambing 
 season; that he never used them as human food. I asked him 
 to let me have some to try and see how they eat. He did, and © 
 I cooked them like greens; and an exceeding nice vegetable they 
 are. They are also good stewed, and cooked with a piece of bacon. 
 As they grow at a time of the year when other green vegetables are 
 scarce, I consider them a valuable article of food. They are sown 
 about April, the small plant put ott about October, and planted about — 
 three feet apart, and by March or April the whole field will be one 
 luxuriant crop of greens. 
 
 Farmers in the vicinity of large towns would do well to undertake 
 their cultivation, as they would find a ready sale in all such places, 
 At that time of year they are in full bloom, and are called by the 
 above singular name in consequence of the thousands of heads con- 
 tinually sprouting from their root. The plant covers nearly one yard — 
 in circumference, and bears no resemblance to any ‘other green I 
 recollect seeing, not even to Brussels sprouts. 
 
 294, Haricots and Lentils——No receipt is more simple, ot 
 easier done, than any of these vegetables; there is hardly a cot- 
 tage in France but what has them in stock, as they will keep 
 good for years. 
 
 Should you be short of potatoes, or supposing they are expen- 
 sive, or even as a change, some of these are an excellent -sub- 
 stitute; one quart will make, when cooked, four pounds of solid 
 
 food. 
 
_ VEGETABLES. ‘113 
 Haricots, plain boiled, should be first washed, then put into the 
 black iron pot one quart of them, with four quarts of cold water, 
 one ounce of butter or fat; boil them gently for three hours, or 
 till tender; the water will be nearly absorbed, if the haricots 
 are good; draw off the remainder; mix in a pint of it three 
 teaspoonsful of flour, half ditto of pepper, add it to the haricots; 
 boil for ten minutes, keep stirring, and serve, adding three 
 teaspoonfuls of salt; an ounce of butter is an improvement. 
 
 A little meat of any kind may be cooked with them, just the 
 same as dried peas, only these are to be eaten whole, and four 
 anions in slices, fried, may be added with the seasoning, when 
 the haricots or lentils are nearly cooked. The broth, if ample, 
 when strained from them, may be used as soup, with bread in it: 
 
 295. Lentils—Wash them as haricots, and cook them as 
 such, putting them in cold water; they will not take so long, 
 but try when tender. Meat is exceedingly good boiled with 
 them, and they make good soup. 
 
 These make an excellent salad, both in winter and summer, 
 See Index. 
 
 The liquor of either makes a nutritious soup, by adding fried 
 onions, a little flour, pepper, and salt, and poured over bread 
 previously sliced and put in a soup basin. 
 
 I herewith send you the receipt I promised you on Nettles, which 
 I tried while in Norfolk. 
 
 296. Nettles——Wash them well, drain, put them into plenty 
 of boiling water with a little salt, boil for twenty minutes, or a 
 little longer, drain them, put them on a board and chop them 
 up, and either serve plain, or put them in the pan with a little | 
 salt, pepper, and a bit of butter, or a little fat and gravy from a 
 roast; or add to a pound two teapoonsfuls of flour, a gill of 
 skim milk, a teaspoonful of sugar, and serve with or without 
 poached eggs. 
 
 This extraordinary spring production, of which few know the 
 value, is at once pleasing to the sight, easy of digestion, and at 
 a time of the year when greens are not to be obtained, invaluable 
 as a purifier of the blood; the only fault is, as I have told you 
 above, Eloise, they are to be had for nothing; it is a pity that 
 children are not emp!oyed to pick them, and sell them in market 
 towns, 
 
 | 
 
114 | VEGETABLES, 
 
 Another unused vegetable is mangel wurzel. The young leaf 
 of the mangel wurzel, cleaned and cooked as above, is extremely 
 good, “% 
 
 In all my various visits to cottages during this spring, I 
 have found but one where either of the above vegetables were in 
 use, and that belonging to a gardener, who knew their value. 
 
 These nettles are good during five months of the year; for 
 
 even when large, the tops are tender. They make excellent tea, 
 which is very refreshing and wholesome.* 
 
 296a.—Sweet Docks, also a wild vegetable, or weed, are very 
 good when done as follows, using about two-thirds of sweet dock, 
 and one-third of nettles, boiled with a little carbonate of soda. 
 When done, strain them, and to about one pint basin full, add one 
 onion sliced and fried, a sprig of parsley, a little butter, pepper, 
 and salt; put into a stewpan on the fire, stir, and gradually add 
 a handful of oatmeal; when you think the meal has been sufli- 
 ciently boiled, dish up and serve as a vegetable. 
 
 297. Large Dry Green Peas.—One quart of peas, soak for 
 twelve hours; put into a pan with one gallon of water, some 
 fat, six sliced onions, one teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, one of 
 pepper; simmer for two or three hours, or till tender, drain 
 the peas, then add to them half a pound of flour, mixed in a pint 
 of cold water, three teaspoonfuls of salt, a quarter of a pound of 
 butter; boil twenty minutes; serve with bacon over. 
 
 Small dumplings may be boiled in it; they will take half an 
 hour. 
 
 298. Fried Potatoes.—Peel a pound of potatoes, cut them 
 into very thin slices, almost shavings; put some fat intc a 
 frying-pan; when very hot, but not burning, throw the slices in, 
 not too many at a time, as they will stick together; moye them 
 about with a skimmer, to prevent it. When anice brown colour, 
 take them out, and sprinkle some salt oyer; serve them up 
 separate, or over broiled meat. Two inches of fat ought to be 
 in the pan. 
 
 299. Fried Cooked Potatoes.—Let the fat in your frying- 
 pan be about two inches deep; when smoking hot, add in five 
 or six potatoes, cut crossways in thin slices, letting them be 
 
 * The best way to pick nettles is to quickly grasp a handful, by — 
 
 doing which you feel no sensation of pain, or by wearing gloves, 
 e 
 
icity dried in a cloth; stir with a spoon; it will take about 
 ___ ten minutes to do them crisp; take them out, drain and dish 
 _ them, sprinkling a little salt over. : 
 
 EGGS. 
 
 TaHxsE, from the earliest records we have, have always been a 
 favourite food, with the exception of a short time in Greece, where 
 a few philosophers endeavoured to make the people refrain from 
 eating them, as they stated that they contained the four elements of 
 the world.* 
 
 They are a nutritious food, wholesome in every way, except when 
 boiled too hard; although there are some stomachs which reject 
 them. They can be employed in almost every dish with advantage, 
 and one weighing two ounces contains nearly the same amount of 
 nourishment as an ounce of meat and an ounce of bread; therefore 
 when eggs are eighteen for a shilling, equal to two pounds four 
 ounces, they are not a very dear article of food. 
 
 300. To ascertain that they are good and Poca. candle them, as itis 
 called ; that is, hold them upright between the thumb and finger of 
 the right hand before a candle, and with the left hand shade the eye, 
 by which means you will be enabled to detect any spots that may be 
 in them ; if a few white spots only, they will do for puddings, &e.; if 
 a black one, throw it away, as it igs perfectly bad, If light and 
 transparent, they are fresh. 
 
 301. Hogs Plain Botled.—This is the most simple of all things 
 to cook, and yet is the least attended to; and I am never surprised, 
 
 * Singular Ideas of the Ancients in relation to Eggs.—Orpheus, 
 Pythagoras, and their sectators—good and humane people as ever 
 lived—unceasingly recommended in their discourses to abstain from 
 eges, in order not to destroy a germ which nature had destined for 
 the production of chicken. Many allowed themselves to be persuaded, 
 and would have believed it an unpardonable crime if they had eaten 
 a tiny omelette, or boiled eggs. Many of the most learned philoso- 
 phers held eggs in a kind of respect approaching to veneration, 
 because they saw in them the emblem of the world and.the four 
 elements. The shell, they said, represented the earth;. the white, 
 water; the yolk, fire; and air was found under the shell. 
 
 The shepherds of Egypt had a singular manner of cooking eggs 
 without the aid of fire: they placed “them in a sling, which they 
 turned so rapidly that the friction of the air heated them to the 
 exact point required for use.— Soyer’s Pant opheon 
 
 12 
 
116 EGGS. 
 
 when I am travelling, to find the eggs either too much or too little 
 done. They will not take the trouble to distinguish a large one from 
 asmall one. Whilst some weigh only an ounce and a half, others 
 weigh two and a half; but as that is a whim of nature, and the 
 servants are so fond of attending to other frolics, they will not see 
 the difference in this; but as all cookery books say three minutes, 
 and the mistress has told them the same, they are right, and she is 
 wrong. From two and a half to four minutes, according to size, is 
 the time they will take. Ten minutes is sufficient to set an egg 
 hard, not thirty, or more, as some persons dc by neglect. 
 
 You know, my dear Eloise, how fidgety I am about such trifles. 
 T have, therefore, invented a cooking clock, with very distinctly 
 marked time; the hand is pushed back to any time named, and at 
 the time required the bell strikes, I mean to adopt it for general 
 kitchen use for all dishes, from an egg to a heavy joint. See Ap- 
 pendix. 
 
 302. To Boil Hggs.—Put a pint of water into a small pan ; 
 when boiling, put two eggs in, and boil according to size—as I 
 have before said, from two and a half to four minutes. Fresh- 
 Jaid eggs will not take so long, and if only just set, are excellent 
 for clearing the voice. 
 
 303.—To boil them for toast, they require six minutes; take 
 them out, throw them in cold water, remove the shell, and cut 
 them into slices; put them on the buttered toast, a little pepper 
 and salt; and serve. These are excellent with a little ketchup 
 put on the eggs, then bread-crumbed, salamandered over, and 
 serve. 
 
 304. Baked Eggs.—Put half an ounce of butter into a small 
 tin pan; break four eggs in it, keeping the yolks whole, throw 
 a little pepper. and bits of butter and salt over; put in the oven, 
 or before the fire, till set, and serve. They will take about six 
 minutes doing. 
 
 305. Poached Hggs.—Put in a small pan half a pint of 
 water, half a teaspoonful of salt, three of vinegar; when boiling, 
 break carefully in the pan two nice eggs, simmer for four 
 minutes, or till firm, but not hard; serve either on toast or fried 
 bacon, or: ham, or spinach, and on any minced and seasoned 
 vegetable. 
 
 306. Mixed Hags.—Break four eggs into a frying-pan, in 
 which you have put two ounces of butter, a little salt and pepper ; 
 
VARIOUS OMELETTE, | 117 
 
 set it on the fire, stir round with a wooden spoon very quickly, 
 to prevent sticking to the pan; when all set, serve either on 
 toast or dish. Fried bacon cut in dice, a little chopped onions, 
 or mushrooms, or a little sprew grass, well boiled, may be added 
 to the above. 
 
 307. Eggs and Bacon.—Cut some bacon very thin, put into 
 a frying-pan half an ounce of butter, or fat, lay the bacon in it; 
 when fried on one side, turn over, and break one egg on each 
 piece; when the eggs are set, put the slice under the bacon, and 
 remove them gently into a dish. Ham may be done the same. 
 
 308. Hggs, Convent Fashion. — Boil four eggs for ten 
 minutes, put them in cold water, peel and slice thin one onion, 
 put into a frying-pan one ounce of butter ; when melted, add the 
 onion, and fry white, then add a teaspoonful of flour, mix it well, 
 add about half a pint of milk, till forming a nice white sauce, 
 half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper; when 
 nicely done, add the eggs, cut into six pieces each, crossways ; 
 toss them up; when hot through, serve on toast. 
 
 309. Hggs and Sausages.—Boil four sausages for five 
 minutes, when half cold cut them in half lengthways, put a little 
 butter or fat in frying-pan, and put the sausages in and fry 
 gently, break four eggs into pan, cook gently, and serve. Raw 
 sausages will do as well, only keep them whole, and cook slowly. 
 
 Omelettes or Fraise. 
 
 Where is the man or woman cook but says they know how te 
 make an omelette, and that to perfection? But this is rarely 
 the case. It is related of Sarah, the Duchess of Marlborough, that 
 no one could cook a fraise, as it was then called, for the great duke 
 but herself. 
 
 The great point is, if in’an iron pan, it should be very clean and 
 free from damp, which sometimes comes out of the iron when placed 
 on the fire. The best plan is to put it on the fire, with a little fat, 
 and let it get quite hot, or until the fat burns; remove it, and wipe 
 it clean with a dry cloth, and then you will be able to make the 
 omelette to perfection. 
 
 310. Omelettes.—Break four eggs into a basin, add half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt and a quarter ditto of pepper, beat them up well 
 with a fork, put into the frying-pan one ounce and a half of 
 butter, lard, or oil, which put on the fire until hot; then pour in 
 
1 18 VARIOUS OMELETTES. 
 
 the eggs, which keep on mixing quick with a spoon until all is 
 delicately set; then let them slip to the edge of the pan, laying 
 hold by the handle, and raising it slantways, which will give an 
 elongated form to the omelette; turn in the edges, let it set a 
 mbinent, and turn it over on to’a dish, and serve. 
 
 It ought to be a nice yellow colour, done to a nicety, and 
 as light ‘and delicate as possible. It may be served in many 
 ways, but some of the following are the most common :—two 
 tablespoonfuls of milk and an ounce of the crumb of bread cut 
 
 in thin slices, may be added. 
 
 311. Omelettes with Herbs.—Proceed as above, adding a 
 
 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and half ditto of chopped onions or | - 
 
 chives, ora little eschalot ; salt and pepper, and semi-fry as above. 
 
 312. Bacon Omelette-—Cut one ounce of bacon into small 
 dice, fry in a little fat; when done, add the °B8s: and proceed as 
 above. 
 
 Ham, if raw, do the same as bacon; if ake cut in dice, put 
 in the eggs, and proceed as before. 
 
 313. Omelettes—Oysters, mussels, periwinkles, or shrimps. 
 When the omelette is nearly done, add a few tablespoonfuls of 
 either of these sauces in the centre; turn the omelette, and serve. 
 For the above, see Fish Sauces. 
 
 Any cooked vegetables, as peas, sprew, &c. &c., may be used 
 in omelettes. 
 
 314, Sweet Omelettes.—Beat four eggs into a basin, add a 
 tablespoonful of milk, a teaspoonful of sugar, a pinch of salt, and 
 beat them well up; put some nice butter into pan, put in the 
 eggs, and fry as before described. Serve with sugar sifted over. 
 
 3144. Preserve Omelettes—When the omelette is nearly dorie, 
 put in the middle some preserve of any kind, turn it over on 
 plate, and serve with sugar over. 
 
 315. Omelettes with Spirit.—These are the above omelettes; 
 serve with spirit round them, and set on fire when going to 
 table. Rum is generally preferred. 
 
 a 
 
PASTRY. ; 119 
 
 ON PASTRY. 
 
 Onz of the oldest and most current modes of cooking, either by mixing 
 oil or butter with the flour, sweetened, scented, or flavoured, according 
 to the fancy of the cook, is pastry. The Romans had their peculiar 
 cakes of paste, the Egyptians had theirs; in fact, all countries have, 
 during the periods of the greatest prosperity, endeavoured to add to 
 the number of their luxuries new modes of making paste. With 
 none of these have we, at the present moment, anything to do; our 
 task is to show how paste can be made to suit everybody, 
 
 My excellent Eloise, I think you are wrong, for once, in proposing 
 that I should give various receipts for sweet pastry. I know you 
 possess a sweet tooth, but let those who require first-class sweet 
 dishes, purchase our “ Modern Housewife ;” no doubt their pocket is 
 equal to their taste; at any rate, the few I now give will, if properly 
 made by a person of taste; lead them to do others that might vie with 
 the most expensive dishes. | 
 
 The following receipts will be continually referred to, therefore 
 they ought to be made with care. 
 
 3154. Puff Paste-—Put one pound of flour upon your pastry 
 slab, make a hole in the centre; in which put a teaspoonftil of 
 salt, mix it with cold water into a softish flexible paste with the 
 right hand, dry it off a little with flour until you have well 
 cleared the paste from the slab, but do not work it more than 
 you can possibly help; let remain two minutes upon the slab 
 then have a pound of fresh butter, from which you have squeeze 
 all the buttermilk in a cloth, bringing it to the same consistency 
 as the paste, upon which place it; press it out flat with the 
 hand, then fold over the edges of the paste so as to hide the 
 butter, and roll it with the rolling-pin to the thickness of 
 half an inch, thus making it about two feet in length; fold over 
 one third, over which again pass the rolling-pin ; thei fold Gber 
 the other third, thus forming a square, place it with the ends 
 top and bottom before you, shaking a little flour both under and 
 over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again as before; flour 
 a baking-sheet, upon which lay it, upon ice, if handy, or in some 
 cool plies, for half an hour; then roll twice more, turning it as 
 before, place again upon the ice a quarter of an hour, give it 
 two more rolls, making seven in all, and it is ready for use, 
 as directed in the following receipts. You must continually 
 add enough flour while rolling to prevent your paste sticking to 
 the slab. 
 
120 | | PASTRY. 
 
 - When I state that upwards of a hundred different kinds of 
 cakes may be made from this paste and the following, I 
 am sure it will be quite sufficient to urge uron every cook the 
 necessity of paying every attention to their fabrication, as it will 
 well repay for the study and trouble. One fourth of this quantity 
 may be made. 
 
 316. Half-puff Paste-—Put on the dresser or table one 
 pound of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of butter, 
 mix all together, then add half a pint of water, or little more ; 
 form a softish paste, do not work it too much with the hand, or it 
 will make it hard and tough ; throw some more flour lightly over 
 and under, roll it out with arolling-pin half an inch thick, about 
 a foot long; then have half a pound of fresh butter equally as 
 stiff as the paste, break it into small pieces, and put it on the 
 paste ; throw a little more flour on it, and fold it over in two 
 folds, throw some more flour on the slab, roll it out three or 
 four times, letting it rest between each two rolls, and it is then 
 ready for use. 
 
 It can be made with lard instead of butter. 
 
 _ The yolk of an egg, or the juice of half a lemon, added to the 
 water, makes it lighter. 
 
 3164. Half butter and half lard may be used, or if butter is too 
 dear, use all lard; if neither, mix well with the flour two 
 ounces of dripping, xo salé, lay it on the board, and mix half a 
 pint of water, till a softish paste ; roll it out, then chop a quarter 
 of a pound of good beef suet very fine, mix with a quarter of a 
 pound of good dripping, free from water or gravy, roll out the 
 paste, and add the dripping and suet as preceding receipt. 
 
 317. Plainer Paste, for Meat Pies.—Put into a pan half a 
 pound of flour, quarter of a pound of dripping, half a teaspoonful 
 of salt, rub all well together for about three minutes, add by 
 degrees half'a pint of water, mix the paste well; it requires to be 
 rather hard; throw some flour on the board, roll, and use it 
 instead of puff paste; three, or even two ounces, of dripping will 
 be enough where economy is required, or many children to feed. 
 
 Where the cottager has a small garden, m which he can 
 grow a few herbs, which I have already recommended, then 
 introduce in the paste a little chopped parsley or eschalot, a very 
 small piece of winter savory or thyme, or bayleaf chopped fine ; 
 these herbs cost little, and are at once relishing, refreshing, and 
 wholesome. ! 
 
i 
 f 
 | 
 | 
 | 
 He 
 
 PASTRY. 121 
 
 By the same rule the same paste will do for fruit pies, mixed 
 with a little grated lemon or orange-peel, with the sean of a 
 teaspoonful of sugar. 
 
 318. Short Paste—Put on a slab or board a pound of flour, 
 two ounces of pounded sugar, or whitey-brown, six ounces of 
 butter, one egg, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a pint of water, 
 mix sugar and butter well together, add it with the water by 
 degrees to the flour, and form a nice paste, but firmer than puff- 
 paste ; use where described. 
 
 In a farm-house, for a treat, they use cream to make this 
 paste. 
 
 319. Pudding Paste. 1st Class Paste. Put on a slab, 
 table, board, or basin, one pound of flour, half a pound of 
 beef or mutton suet, chopped rather fine—the first is prefer- 
 able—form a well with your hand in the centre of the flour, add 
 the suet, a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper; moisten all with 
 water, working the flour in by degrees, till it forms a stiff paste ; 
 work it well for two minutes, throw a little flour on the slab, 
 with the paste on it; let it remain five minutes, then roll it out 
 to any thickness you like. This will be referred to very often, 
 therefore pay particular attention to it, and give it an important 
 place in the book. For savoury pudding, I sometimes vary the 
 flavour, by adding a little chopped parsley, or a little onion, or 
 thyme, or mushrooms in it. 
 
 2nd Class Paste. Proceed the same way, putting only six 
 ounces of suet. ‘ 
 
 3rd Class Paste. The same, with four ounces. 
 
 4th Class Paste. The same, with four ounces of dripping. 
 
 Lamb, veal, and pork fat, may be used; but as they do not chop 
 so floury, the paste is heavier. But they can be used for baked 
 puddings, which I have introduced at page 102 in that series. 
 
 320. Fruit Tart, French fashion.—This requires a. mould 
 or a tin pan; it must be well wiped with a cloth, butter it, then 
 take the remains of half puff paste, and roll it well so as to deaden 
 it, then roll it out a size larger than your mould, and about a 
 quarter of an inch thick; place your mould on a baking-tin, put 
 the paste carefully in the mould and shape it well, to obtain all 
 the form of the mould, without making a hole in the paste; put a 
 piece of paper at the bottom, fill with fruit to the top, and bake 
 
bo; 
 
 12 
 a nice colour; it will take about half an hour baking with any 
 
 fruit in season; put plenty of sugar over, according to the 
 acidity of the fruit. 
 
 PASTRY, 
 
 321, Another,—If you have no mould, make a quarter of a 
 pound of paste (No. 318), roll it round or oval to your fancy, a 
 quarter of an inch thick, wet the edge all round about half an 
 inch, raise that part, and pinch it with your thumb and fingers, 
 making a border all round, put on a baking-sheet, fill it with 
 one row of fruit if large, two rows if small; remove the stones, 
 and sift sugar over according to the acidity ‘of the fruit; it will 
 take less time, too, than if in a mould: You see what variation 
 can be made with very little trouble or expense. 
 
 322. Small Pastry.—Make a quarter of a pound of half puff 
 paste (No. 318), roll it to a thickness of a quarter of an inch, 
 cut five or six pieces out with the rim of a tumbler; put each 
 piece in a separate tin, shape it well in forming a nice thin rim 
 round the edge with your finger and thumb, three parts fill with 
 either jam, stowed fruit, sweetmeats, custard, pastry, or cream, 
 bake in a very hot oven for twenty minutes; dish up in pyra- 
 mids, and serve. See Index. 
 
 323. Little Fruit Rissolettes.—I_ also make with the trim- 
 mings of puff paste the following little cakes: if you have about 
 a aiiatter of a pound of puff paste left, roll it out very thin, 
 about the thickness of half a crown, put half a spoonful of any 
 marmalade on it, about one inch and a half distance from each 
 other, wet lightly round them with a paste-brush, and place a 
 similar piece of paste over all, take a cutter of the size of a crown 
 piece, and press round the part where the marmalade or jam is 
 with the thick part of the cutter, to make the paste stick, then 
 cut them out with one a size or two larger, lay them on a 
 baking-tin, ege over, place in a nice hot oven for twenty 
 minutes, then sugar over with finely sifted sugar, so as to make 
 it quite white, then put back into the oven to glaze, and serve. 
 
 3234. Plain Puff Paste Cake—Make half a pound ¢ as No. 
 3154; when done, roll it about a quater of an inch thick, cub 
 “as many pieces as you can with the cutter, or with the edge of 
 a glass, wet a baking sheet, place them on, egg well over, sift 
 some sugar on eich; bake from ten to twelve minutes, and 
 serve. 
 
 RT ERT 
 
PASTRY. 123 
 
 324. Orange and Almond Cakes.—Proceed as above, but lay 
 
 _ orange marmalade all over a quarter of an inch thick, four ounces 
 
 of almonds, cut into fillets, mixed with two ounces of sugar, and 
 the white of two eee added to it; lay the almonds all over the 
 marmalade, bake in a moderate oven, and cut in a diamond 
 shape, dish up on a napkin in crown or pyramid; they ought 
 to be of a nice transparent colour. Apple or quince marmalade 
 may be used instead of orange. 
 
 325. Preserve Cake.—This style of cake is exceedingly 
 simple, and admits of great variation. You must make half a 
 pound of puff paste (No. 315), take one third of it and 
 roll it out several times so as to deaden it, then mould it 
 round with your hands to the shape of a ball, roll it out flat 
 to the thickness of a crown, lay it on a baking-sheet, put 
 on it marmalade, or any other preserve, a quarter of an 
 inch thick, reserving about one inch all round of paste to 
 fix the cover on, then roll out the remainder of the paste 
 to the same shape, it will of course be thicker; wet the edges 
 of the bottom, and lay the cover on it; press it so that it 
 sticks, cut neatly round the edges, and shake a mark with the 
 back of a knife about a quarter of an inch deep and half an inch 
 apart all round; eggs over, and lightly mark any fanciful design 
 _ with the point of a knife on the cover; bake in a very hot oven 
 for twenty minutes; when nearly done, sprinkle some sugar 
 over, frost it with a hot shovel, and serve cold. 
 
 326. Small Cream Cake—The former one must be made in 
 proportion to the dish you intend to serve on, but the following 
 is simple, and looks as well: Prepare the paste as before, but 
 roll the bottom piece about a foot square, put it on a baking- 
 sheet, cover with half an inch of cream (see Index), leaving one 
 inch round the edge; roll the cover the same size, wet the edges, 
 place it over, trim them, mark it down every three inches, and 
 then crosswise every inch; bake in hot oven, sugar over, and 
 salamander. When nearly cold, cut it where you have marked it ; 
 thus, a piece twelve inches square will give you twenty-four pieces; 
 dish as a crown or pyramid. Twelve pieces make a nice dish for a 
 party. They may be made of any puff paste which is left, but 
 will not be so light as if made on purpose; can be cut to any 
 fanciful shape you please. Any jam may be substituted for cream. 
 
Tima 
 
 ae ee, PASTRY. ie 
 
 327. Fruit Crusts—Cut a French penny roll lengthwise in 
 four slices, put the yolk of one egg with four spoonfuls of milk, 
 mix it in a plate, dip quickly each piece in it, and sauté in a 
 quarter of a pound of butter which you have previously melted 
 in a frying pan; leave them on the fire until they have obtained 
 a nice gold colour on both sides; put three spoonfuls of orange 
 marmalade in a stewpan, with two glasses of sherry or brandy, 
 and place on the fire; when on.the point of boiling, pour over 
 
 the bread, which you have previously put in a ole, and serve 
 
 very hot. Any preserve may be used, also any white wine; and 
 should you have no French rolls, any fancy roll will do, or even 
 the crumb of common bread. Any kinds of jam may be used. 
 
 Nursery Dumplings. 
 
 Having, the other evening, been invited to a children’s party at 
 Farmer Laurence’s, near Oswestry, and the supper being composed, for 
 the most part, of dumplings of various sorts, so as to please the chil- 
 dren, I made the following experiment, which proved quite suc- 
 cessful. 
 
 328.—Greengages being very plentiful, I want aii gathered — 
 
 some, and made the following fruit dumplings. I made half a 
 pound of paste (No. 319), rolléd it out rather thin, then cut a 
 piece round with the rim of a tumbler, moistened it, and placed 
 
 a gage in the centre, adding a half teaspoonful of sugar, inclosed. 
 
 Ne in the paste, thoroughly closing the rim, then placed on 
 
 the baking-sheet, the stnooth part uppermost, and baked them | 
 
 from ten to twelve minutes, serving them up with sugar.- They 
 made a beautiful dish. 
 
 Gooseberries, rhubarb, cherries, and mulberries, can all be |. 
 
 done this way. “All kinds of plums can be done the same. 
 
 329. Plain Cheese Cake—Put half a pint of milk curds, 
 
 \ well drained, in a basin, add to it an ounce and a half of butter, 
 
 stir perfectly smooth, put in three teaspoonfuls of sugar, one 
 ounce of washed currants, one egg, half a pint of milk, and any 
 flavour you like, as lemon, orange, &c. &c. Prepare your paste as 
 No. 322, fill up the tins with this, bake the same, and serve. 
 
PASTRY. : 125 
 
 NATIONAL FRENCH CAKE OR GALETTE, 
 
 DEAREST Exoisr,—There is one little and perhaps insignificant 
 French cake, which I feel certain would soon become a favourite in the 
 cottage, more particularly amongst its juvenile inhabitants. It is the 
 famed galette, the melodramatic food of the gamins, galopins, me- 
 _ chanics, and semi-artists of France. Show me one of the above-named 
 citizens who has not tasted this irresistible and famed cake, after 
 having digested the best and most sanguinary melodrama, from the 
 “Courier of Lyons” to the “Corsi¢an Brothers,” and from the “ Pilules 
 _>du Diable” to the “Seven, Wonders of the World,” after having 
 paid their duty to the elegance of the performance and performers, and 
 entirely forgetting, as usual, the author, who is supposed to live in his. 
 tomb, whilst the actors and artists are dead in reality. Setting that 
 on one side, observe that the last Seventh Wonder is over, the red- 
 blue-green fire no longer required ; the scene-shifter bolts and gets the 
 first cut, smoking hot; then, also, rush the audience, full of melodrama 
 and anything but food, to the galette-shop, where the Pére Coupe- 
 toujours (Father Cut-and-come-again) is in full activity, taking the 
 money first, and delivering the galette afterwards. Six feet wide 
 by ten long is the galette-shop, and very clean, and above one 
 hundred feet of galette is sold in less than one hour, at a sou or two 
 the cut. ; 
 Such is, even in summer, the refreshment of the admirers of tie 
 Boulevard du Crime. 
 Like everything which has its origin with the million, it soon aims” 
 to an aristocracy of feeling, and I was not a little surprised, the last 
 _ time I was in Paris, to see a fashionable crowd round an elegant 
 shop, close to the Gymnase Theatre; on inquiring of a venerable 
 citizen, who was anxiously waiting, with ten sous in his hand, the 
 motive of such a crowd, he informed me that he was waiting his 
 turn to buy ten sous worth of galette du Gymnase, which he told me 
 was the most celebrated in Paris. He passed; and then ladies, 
 heautifully dressed, took their turn; in fact, the crowd brought to 
 my recollection the description of the scehe of the bread market at 
 Athens (described in Soyer’s “ Pantropheon”), where the: ladies of 
 fashion or the petites maitresses of ancient’ Greece used tos go to 
 select the delicious puff cake, called placites, or the sweet melitutes, 
 whose exquisite and perfumed flour was delicately kneaded with the 
 precious honey of Mount Hymettus. At all events, I was determined 
 not only to taste, but to procure the receipt if I possibly could; and 
 as you know, Eloise, I seldom fail, when determined, the following is 
 & copy. . 
 
 330. Aristocratic Galette-—Work lightly in a basin or on a 
 table one pound of flour with threo quarters of a pound of fresh — 
 
 ers 
 
126 ; PIES. 
 
 butter; add two eggs, a gill of cream, and a little milk; if too — 
 stiff, then add a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, two of sugar; 
 work all well, to form a good stiff paste, throw some flour on the 
 table, mould the paste round, roll it three quarters of an inch 
 thick, and quite round, ege over, score it with a knife in 
 dizmonds, or any other shape; bake for about half an hour in ~ 
 a rather hot oven, sprinkle sugar over and serve. A pound of ~ 
 either puff, No. 315a, or half puff paste, No. 316, will make a 
 
 very light galette; sugar over, and bake as above. 
 
 331. Cottage Galette.—Put one pound of flour, a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, six cunces of butter; moisten with milk, and bake 
 as above, adding a teaspoonful of sugar. 
 
 332. Poor Man’s Galette-—One pound of flour, a quarter of 
 a pound of lard, moisten with milk, or water; proceed as above, 
 moisten with a little water on the top, and dredge sugar over. 
 If no lard, use dripping. 
 
 INTRODUCTION TO PIES, BOTH SWEET AND SAVOURY. 
 
 No matter how ridiculous it may appear to Mrs. Smith, or Mrs. 
 Brown, or Mrs. Any-body-else, do not omit to give room to the fol- 
 lowing remarks on pies. Never mind how simple these remarks 
 may seem to you, the million will understand them well. For 
 example, where is the little boy or girl in Great Britain who has not 
 eaten pies sweet and savoury? From childhood we eat pies—from 
 girlhood to boyhood we eat pies—from middle age to old age we eat 
 pies—in fact, pies in England may be considered as one of our best 
 companions du voyage through life. It is we who leave them behind, 
 not they who leave us; for our children and grandchildren will be as 
 fond of pie as we have been; therefore it is needful that we should 
 learn how to make them, and make them well! Believe me,I am — 
 not jesting, but if all the spoilt pies made in London on one single _ 
 Sunday were to be exhibited in a row beside a railway line, it would 
 take above an hour by special train to pass in review these culinary 
 victims; therefore see the importance of the subject. If we could — 
 only rescue to proper standing half a mile of pies and pie-crust, I 
 think we should deserve a piece of plate, or at least a piece of one of — 
 our disciple’s pies. 
 How to Make a Pie to Perfection——When your paste is — 
 carefully made (No. 316), or short paste (No. 318), which requires 
 
i ey BERL MON SEM ye Tye R RG OY ee Tae fe! HUG, SPA OPEL ae te, oye Te a 
 
 PIES, TP OB 
 
 no more time than doing badly, and your pies and tarts properly 
 _ full—(this is the last and most important process in pie and tart 
  making)—throw a little flour on your paste-board, take about a 
 _ quarter of a pound of your paste, which roll with your hand, say an 
 _ inch in circumference; moisten the rim of your pie-dish, and fix 
 _ the paste equally on it with your thumb. When you have rolled 
 your paste for the covering of an equal thickness, in proportion 
 ' to the contents of your pie (half an inch is about correct for the 
 | above description), fold the cover in two, lay on the half of your 
 
 —— 
 
 | pie, turn the other half over, press slightly with your thumb 
 _ round the rim, cut neatly the rim of your paste, form rather a 
 _ thick edge, which mark with a knife about every quarter of an inch 
 
 apart 5 mark, holding your knife in a slanting direction, which 
 gives it a neat appearance; make two small Toles on the top; 
 ege over with a paste-brush; if no egg, use a drop of milk or 
 water; the remaining paste may be shaped to fanciful designs | 
 to ornament the top. For meat, pies, notice, that if your 
 paste is either too thick or too thin, the covering too narrow or 
 too short, and requires pulling one ‘way or the other, to make it 
 fit, your pie is sure to be imperfect, the covering no longer 
 protecting the contents. It is the same with meat; and if the 
 paste happens to be rather rich, it pulls the rim of the pie to the 
 
 dish, soddens the paste, makes it heavy, and, therefore, indi- 
 
 gestible as well as unpalateable. A little practice and common 
 sense will remedy all those little housewifery tribulations, and 
 probably improve the appearance of this series of dishes. 
 
 333. Plain Apple and other Tart.—Peel and cut about two 
 pounds of apples, sharp ones being the best for the purpose, cut 
 
 each in four pieces, removing the cores, then cut each quarter in 
 
 two or three pieces, according to size; put half of them in a pie- 
 dish, slightly press them, so that they lay compact; put over 
 two ounces of brown sugar, then put in the remaining apples, 
 then add another, two ounces of sugar, making the apples forma © 
 kind of dome, the centre being two inches higher than the 
 sides ; add a small wineglassful of water, cover the top over with, 
 
 -paste No. 318; bake in a moderate oven from half to three- 
 
 quarters of an vom 
 All kinds of apples will, of course, make tarts, but if the 
 
 apples be sweetish or too ripe, you need not put in so much 
 sugar, but add double the quantity of water; in this case the © 
 
* See eas et cameo ee ee 
 128 SWEET PUDDINGS. % 
 
 addition of a little juice of a lemon is an improvement to vary — 
 
 the flavour; use also a little grated or chopped lemon or orange- 
 peel, or a quarter of a teaspoonful of cinnamon, or mixed spice, 
 or four cloves, 
 
 Green rhubarb and greengages will require a little more — 
 
 sugar, adding nothing else but the fruit; proceed as for apple- 
 tart; pink rhubarb does not require pealing; ripe currants, 
 raspberries, and cherries, also as above; plum, damson, and 
 mulberries the same. 
 
 SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 334. Plum -Pudding.—Pick and stone half a pound of © 
 
 Malaga raisins, wash and dry the same quantity of currants, 
 chop, not too fine, three- -quarters of a pound of beef suet, put it 
 
 in a convenient basin, with six ounces of sugar, two ounces of — 
 
 mixed candied peel sliced, three ounces of flour, three ditto of 
 bread-crumbs, a little grated nutmeg, four eggs, a gill of water, 
 or perhaps a little more, to form a nice consistence; butter a 
 mould, put a piece of white paper over the top and round the 
 sides, tie it in a cloth, boil for four hours in plenty of water ; 
 
 when done, remove the cloth, turn it out of the mould, take the © 
 
 paper off the sides and top, and serve with sweet sauce round ; it 
 may also be boiled in a cloth. 
 
 The above is only for Christmas. Now for every day. 
 
 Put into a basin one pound of flour, one of chopped suet, half 
 a pound of mixed fruit, a little spice, grated lemon-peel, three 
 ounces of sugar, two eggs, half a pint of milk, or enough to 
 make it a proper thickness, tie it in a cloth, boil four hours, 
 turn it out, and serve with melted butter, or sweet sauce ; bread- 
 crumbs instead of flour is good, or half of each. 
 
 335. A Series of Economical Puddings, which can be made E 
 either in a mould, basin, tart-dish, or tin cake-pan—Well — 
 
 butter either, fill lightly with any of the following ingredients : 
 
 —LKither stale buns, muffins, crumpets, pastry, whit e or brown 
 bread, sliced and buttered, the remains of sponge-cakes, ma- 
 caroons, ratafias, almond cake, gingerbread, biscuit of any 
 
 i 
 
 kind, previously soaked. For a change with any of the above, — 
 you may intermix with either fresh or dried fruit, or preserves; — 
 even plums, grated cocoa nut, &c, When your mould is full of — 
 
 & 
 
 aes 
 
 a 
 
SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS. 
 
 either of the above, putin a basin a quarter teaspoonful of either 
 
 ginger, a little mixed spice, or cinnamon, if handy, grated 
 
 orange, lemon, or a few drops of any essence you choose; put in 
 three eggs, which beat well, add three gills of milk for every 
 
 quarter mould. When the above is well mixed, fill up nearly 
 to the rim. It can be either baked or boiled, or put into 
 
 a saucepan one-third full of water, with the lid over, and let 
 
 simmer for about one hour. Pass a knife round the inside of 
 the basin or mould, turn out your pudding, pour over either 
 melted butter with a little sugar, the juice of a lemon or spirit 
 sauce. It ought to be the pride of each cottager’s wife to find 
 out a peculiar and cheap mixture, which would entirely depend 
 on the part of the country in which she lives, that would be 
 liked by the family, and give it as a treat every Sunday. 
 
 3304. Fruit Puddings.—Such as green gooseberry is best made 
 in a basin, the basin to be buttered and lined with the paste, roll- 
 ing it round to the thickness of half an inch; then get a pint of 
 gooseberries and three ounces of sugar; after having made your 
 paste, take half the fruit, and lay it at the bottom of your basin, 
 then add half your sugar, then put the remainder of the 
 gooseberries in and the remainder of the sugar; on that draw 
 your paste to the centre, join the edges well together, put the 
 cloth over the whole, tying it at the bottom, and boil in plenty 
 
 of water. Fruit puddings, such as apples and rhubarb, should 
 
 ie 
 
 | 22 
 
 be done in this manner; boil for an hour, take out of the sauce- 
 pan, untie the cloth, turn out on a dish, or let it remain in the 
 basin, and serve with sugar over. A thin cover of the paste 
 may be rolled round and put over the pudding. 
 
 Ripe cherries, currants, raspberries, greengage, plums, and such 
 like fruit, will not require so much sugar, or so long boiling. 
 
 336. Curd Milk Pudding—Put in a basin three eggs, a 
 little grated lemon-peel, three ounces of currants, exe pint of 
 curds, and one pound of bread-crumbs; boil in a cloth half an 
 hour; turn out and serve. . 
 
 337. Cocoa Nut Pudding.—Grate half a nut, add another egg 
 to the milk, mix with the above. An ounce of flour may be added. 
 
 338. Plain Rice Pudding.—Wash a quarter of a pound of 
 rice, put into a stewpan with a pint anda half of milk, three 
 ounces of butter, three ounces of sugar, lemon-peel, simmer till 
 x 
 
130 SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS. 
 
 the rice is tender, add two eggs, previously well beaten, mix 
 
 quick, put in pie-dish ; bake half an hour, or till set. 
 339. Spotted Dick.—Put three-quarters of a pound of flour 
 
 into a basin, half a pound of beef suet, half ditto of currants, 
 
 two ounces of sugar, a little cinnamon, mix with two eggs and 
 
 two gills of milk; boil in either mould or cloth for one hour © 
 
 and a half; serve with melted butter, and a little sugar over. 
 
 340. Light Dough Dumplings—Get one pound of dough, 
 
 make it into small balls the size of eggs, boil in plenty of | 
 
 water, and use it for roast or boiled meats, or serve with butter 
 and sugar, or with gravy. 
 
 Two ounces of chopped suet added to the above, or to vary 
 
 the flavour, add a few currants, a little sugar, grated nutmeg, or 
 lemon-peel. 
 
 341. Apple and Paste Pudding in Basin.—Make one pound ' 
 
 of paste, No. 319, roll it a quarter of an inch thick, lay some in a 
 
 bow], fillit with apples cut in quarters, add two cloves, two ounces _ 
 
 of sugar, a little butter, put another piece of paste on the top, — 
 and join the edge nicely; tie it in a cloth and boil. It can be © 
 served up either in the basin or turned out. Do not open the top — 
 
 to put more sugar in, as it spoils the flavour and makes it heavy. 
 All fruit puddings may be done the same way. 
 
 342. Suet Pudding.—Put into a basin half a pound of 
 chopped suet, a pound of flour, two eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, 
 quarter of pepper, nearly half a pint of water; beat all well to- 
 gether, put-into a cloth as above; boil one hour and a half. 
 
 343. Bread Pudding—An economical one, when eggs are ;. 
 
 dear. Cut some bread and butter very thin, place it in a 
 pie-dish as lightly as possible, till three-parts full; break into a 
 basin one egg, add two teaspoonfuls of flour, three of brown sugar ; 
 
 mix all well together, add to it by degrees a pint of milk, a> 
 little salt; pour over the bread; bake in an oven; it will take- 
 
 about half an hour: this will make a nice size pudding for four 
 or five persons. 
 This may be done in twenty different ways, by varying the 
 
 flavour of the ingredients, as lemon-peel, orange-peel, nutmeg, 
 
 cinnamon, or mixed spice, or essences of any kind. \ 
 For children, skim-milk, or half milk and water, dates, or 
 
i pas 
 
 SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS, 131 
 
 x French plums, or figs, previously soaked and cut, may be added ; 
 _ they are excellent for children. a 
 
 344. Brown Bread Puddings, the same way. 
 
 3444. Broken Biscuit Pudding.—These may be bought very 
 cheap at a baker’s; they should be soaked in milk and sugar 
 the over night, and proceed as above or as No. 335. Stale 
 sponge cake may be used with them. 
 
 845. Rice, Macaroni, and Vermicelli Puddings.—Wash 
 a quarter of a pound of rice, boil till tender, drain it, place it in 
 the pie-dish with any kind of fruit, and one ounce of butter, in 
 bits; pour custard No. 361 or 343 over, and bake.  Vermicelli 
 and macaroni previously boiled, may be done the same. 
 
 346. The Same for a Numerous Family, or School.—Two 
 pounds of boiled rice, with one pound of chopped suet; mix in 
 a pan with four eggs, ten teaspoonfuls of flour; moisten with 
 five pints of water, or skim-milk; add one pound of sugar and 
 
 a teaspoonful of salt; bake about one hour. ‘To vary it, a few 
 
 - Smyrna rasins may be added. Apples, or any dry fruit, may 
 
 be used, previously soaked as No, 243. 
 
 347. Lemon Dumplings.—Chop the rind of one lemon fine, 
 add it to the juice; chop up half a pound of suet; mix with half 
 
 _ a pound of bread crumbs one egg, enough milk or water to make 
 
 a stiff paste; add the lemon; sweeten to taste; divide it into five 
 equal parts, and boil in separate cloths for three-quarters of an 
 hour; serve with butter and sugar, or a little honey. 
 
 3474. Apple Dumplings.—Peel and take out the cores of a 
 large apple, coverit with paste No. 318 or 319, boil in a cloth, 
 or plainly bake for thirty minutes, Serve with butter and sugar, 
 
 848. Another.—Put into the paste in making it, two ounces 
 of sugar; a few sultans, or plums, may also be added, and served 
 with sweet melted butter or spirit sauce over. 
 
 349. 4A Simple Suet Dumpling.—One pound of flour, halfa . 
 pound of chopped suet, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter ditto of 
 pepper; moisten with water until a stiff paste: use where 
 required. They may be rolled in small balls, and may be used | 
 
 in savowy pies, hash, or stews. 
 
 3 K2 
 
139 SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS. Bs 
 
 350. Rice and Preserve.—Boil half a pound of rice as No. 463; 
 when just done, add one ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of currant 
 jelly, one ounce of sugar; mix all well together with a fork, and 
 serve. Apple marmalade, rhubarb, cherries, currants, and rasp- 
 berry jam, orange marmalade, &c., may we used, and an immense 
 variation may be made. If itis found too thick, add some milk, 
 Dish up in pyramids, and serve. 
 
 351. Ground Rice Pudding.—Boil one pint of milk with, a 
 little piece of lemon peel; mix a quarter of a pound of ground 
 rice with half a pint of milk, two ounces of sugar, and»one of 
 butter; add this to the boiling milk; keep stirring, take it off 
 the fire, break in two eggs, one after the other; keep stirring ; 
 butter a pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and bake untilset. This 
 is one of the quickest puddings that can be made. 
 
 : ; } wie ex" 
 m=" 3 . = ~ Oa en at ci So MP Oa 
 iN naa he a) tk tll kd 
 
 352. Snow Rice Cream.—Put in a stewpan four ounces of 
 ground .rice, two ounces of sugar, a few drops of the essence 
 of almonds, or any other essence you choose, with two ounces of 
 fresh butter; add a quart of milk, boil from fifteen to twenty 
 minutes, till it forms a smooth substance, though not too thick ; 
 then pour in a mould previously oiled, and serve when cold. It 
 will turn out like jelly. 
 
 If no mould, put either in cups or a pie-dish. The rice had 
 better be done a little too much, than undef. 
 
 ae, 
 
 ht 
 
 353. Handy Pudding.—Remove the inside of three lemons 
 into a basin, take out the pips, add half a pound of sugar, mix 
 well; roll a long strip of paste, as for rolly-polly pudding, lay 
 the mixture over with a spoon; roll and boil the same as 
 rolly-polly pudding. 4 
 
 Orange can be done the same way, with the addition of the 
 juice of ‘half a lemon. 
 
 354. Young England Pudding,—Make some, paste, No. 319, 
 roll and Lay i it ina basin; then roll about seven or eight very thin 
 pieces the size of the bason; then get a pound of Posts or golden | _ 
 
 _ syrup, and pour a little on the paste, squeezing a little ‘lenay 1 
 _ juice, and chop up the rind of a lemon, and sprinkle a little over; | 
 add the other pieces of paste, and then the treacle and lemon | 
 until full. Boil in a cloth for one hour, and serve with some | 
 | treacle over, eri eh 
 
 wl i Ni at a el i i I Bid aa SE eh eth 
 
 5 | i 
 es “ 
 
SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS, 133 
 
 + think I remember telling you, my dear Eloise, of the pleasant 
 ie I passed at Boulogne two summers since, and of our little trip 
 
 _ to the Vallée Heureuse, or Happy Valley, near Marquise, a charming 
 
 village near Boulogne. In the course of our ramble on that plea- 
 sant day, we all gathered a lot of blackberries—but such berries as 
 
 “we do not meet with in England; they are a luscious, ripe fruit. 
 
 These we took home with us to the hotel, and the next day boiled 
 them up with a lot of sugar, and made them into a pudding like the 
 
 above, using the fruit and syrup instead of treacle. It was very much. 
 
 liked at dinner, which was a fable d’hdte, and the colour somewhat 
 resembling Uncle Tom’s face, it was at once christened with that 
 name, and is now known as Uncle Tom’s pudding. A little port 
 
 Wine sauce may be used, and also black currants, boiled to a syrup. 
 3855. Isinglass and Gelatine for Jellies.— Dissolve two 
 
 pines slams, 
 2g 
 
 sense 
 
 vane 
 
 La ass ‘through ac cloth into a basin ; use where required. 
 Gelatine may be used the same way. 
 The stock of two calf’s feet, reduced to half a pint, may be 
 
 . used instead of isinglass; it will make it cheaper. 
 
 The stock of cow-heel can also be used. 
 356. Bohemian..Cream.— Prepare four ounces of any fruit, 
 
 _ as No. 384, which pass through a sieve, and one ounce and a 
 half of-melted isinglass to half a pint of fruit; mix it well, 
 _ whip up a pint of cream, and add the fruit and isinglass gra- 
 
 _ dually to it; put it in a mould; let it set on ice or in any cool 
 
 place, and when ready, dip the mould into warm water, and turn 
 out. 
 
 357. White Cream—Put into a bason a quarter of a pound 
 
 _ of sugar, a gill of pale brandy, and one and a half ounce of 
 
 either melted isinglass, gelatine, or calf’s foot; stir it well, and 
 add a pint of whipped cream; proceed as before. Rum, noyeau, 
 
  euragoa, or other liquors or flavours, may be added. When 
 
 liquors are used, add less sugar. If you have any ice, use only 
 
 __an ounce of either. 
 
 858. Calf’s-foot Jelly.—It is possible, even in the poorest 
 family, that jelly may be recommended in cases of illness, and 
 they may be at a distance from any place where it could be 
 purchased. I think it right to give the following receipt :— 
 
 Cut two calf’s feet and put them in three quarts of water; 
 when boiling, remove to the side of the fire, and let it simmer 
 
 _ ‘from three to four hours, keeping it skimmed; pass it through a 
 
 . ounces of isinglass in half _a pint of water; boil and_ reduce to i 
 
 owe 
 
134 SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS. 
 
 sieve into a bason, where it must remain until quite hard; then 
 remove all the fat, &c., from the top. Put into a pan half a 
 pound of white sugar crushed, the juice of four lemons, the rind 
 of one, the whites and shells of five eggs, two glasses of white wine 
 and a pint and a half of water; stir till the sugar is melted, then 
 
 add the jelly; place it on the fire and stir well until boiling 3 
 
 then pass it through a flannel bag until clear. Put in a 
 mould with or without fresh fruit. Set in ice of any cool 
 
 place, till firm. Brandy, rum, or any liqueurs, may be added, — 
 
 or serve plain. 
 
 359. Orange Jelly.—Procure five oranges and one lemon; 
 take the rind off two of the oranges, and half of the lemon; and 
 remove the pith, put them in a bason, and squeeze the juice of 
 the fruit into it; then put a quarter of a pound of sugar into a 
 stewpan, with half a pint of water, and set it to boil until it 
 becoiies a syrup, when take it off, ahd add the juice and rind 
 of the fruits; cover the stewpan, and place it again on the 
 fire; as soon as boiling commences, skim well, and add a gill 
 of water by degrees, which will assist its clarification ; let it boil 
 another minute, whenadd an ounce and 4 half of isinglass; dissolved 
 as directed (No. 355), pass it through a jelly-bag, or fine sieve; add. 
 a few drops of prepared cochineal to give an orange tint, and then 
 fill a mould and place it on ice; turn out as before. This jelly 
 does not require to look very clear: 
 
 »860. Lemon Jelly is made the same way, only using six 
 lemons and the rind of one. 
 
 To those who wish to save trouble, I would recommend them. to 
 buy their jellies ready made. They may be purchased at almost 
 every Italian warehouse in town and country, in bottles of about a 
 pint and a quart each, so preparéd as to keep fresh and good for 
 years. Many of my friends use these Bottled Jellies, of which 1 
 find the following are the best kinds: Noyeau, punch, orange, lemon, 
 Madeira, and plain calf’s-foot. They are all very excellent and use- 
 ful in their way. 
 
 Dian Exo1st,—While on the stibject of jellies and confectionary, 
 I feel I should be wanting in duty to the public were I to refrain 
 from drawing their earnest attention to the recerit disclosures in the 
 Lancet, which so fearlessly exposed the poisonous adulterations found 
 in the various articles of preserves and confectionary submitted to 
 
 " 
 
. 
 | 
 
 SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS. 135 
 
 examination. There is not a doubt these disclosures have had a most 
 beneficial effect in checking the existence of the injurious practices 
 previously adhered to; and I may now look forward with confidence 
 to the day when not only such delicacies, but the whole of the food 
 we eat, may be enjoyed without the slightest fear of injury to our 
 health. Adulteration will then become the exception, instead of, as 
 it hitherto has been, the rule. 
 
 The following paragraph, copied from the Lancet of the 4th 
 February, 1854, appears to me not an inapt illustration of my 
 remarks, displaying, 48 it does, the difference between pure and 
 impure preserves; accompanied by the gratifying intelligence of the 
 possibility of procuring them in a wholesome state.* 
 
 361. Plain Custard.—Boil a pint of milk, in which place 
 two ounéés of sugar, the thin peel of half a lemon; break in a 
 basin four eggs; beat them well with a fork, then pour in the 
 milk by degrees, not too hot; mix it well, pass it throuch a 
 cullender or sieve, fill cups with it, which place in a stew- 
 pan, on the fire, which contains one inch of water; leave them 
 for about twelve minutes, or till set, which is easily perceived. 
 
 362, Coffee; Cocoa; or Chocolate Custard —Make some very 
 strong cofive, beat the eggs as above; put in @ pan half a pint 
 
 # “The practice of imparting to bottled and preserved fruits and 
 vegétables a bright greén colour, by means of a poisonous salt of 
 copper, still prevails extensively. Nothing can be more pernicious 
 than this practice; it has, however, received a considerable check by 
 the publication of the reports of the Analytical Sanitary Commission 
 on this subject. One firm, we know, that of Messrs. Crosse_and 
 Blackwell, whose establishment is the most extensive of any engaged 
 in this branch of trade, has gone to a very considerable expense in 
 fitting up a large silver vessel, as well as several steam pans, which 
 latter are lined with a thick coating of glass enamel, for the prepara. 
 tion of their various manufactures; thus taking every precaution 
 to guard against the contact with copper. The difference in the 
 appearatice of fruits and vegetables which are artificially coloured, 
 and those which have not had any colouring matter added, is 
 very great—so striking, indeed, that a practised eye can readily 
 distinguish the one from the other. The former are of a bright 
 
 . and almost metallic-green hue, much deeper than that of the 
 
 recent fruit, while the latter are of a pale yellowish-green colour, 
 varying with the nature of the fruit or vegetable preserved. As for 
 the difference in the wholesomeness of the two articles, there can be 
 but a single opinion, while, in our estimation, the appearance in the 
 uncoloured sample is much the most pleasing and natural,” 
 
Ta 
 
 136 SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS. 
 
 of milk and half a pint of made coffee, with two ounces of sugar, 
 
 then add the eggs, pass through a sieve, and proceed as above. 
 
 Chocolate and cocoa the same, only omitting the lemon-peel 
 
 in all three. 
 363. Custard in Pie Dish—Put a border of puff paste 
 
 round the dish, fill with the above, and bake twenty minutes in’ 
 
 a slow oven. Hat whilst cold. 
 
 364. Custard for Puddings.—The above will be the founda- 
 tion for any flavour that may be introduced; as orange flower 
 or peel, noyeau, &c. &c. With this mixture an innumerable 
 number of puddings can be made, that in country places, or even 
 towns, will be found as economical an article of food, when 
 eggs are cheap, as can be partaken of, and particularly appre- 
 ciated by the rising generation. 
 
 365. Farm Custard.—Put in a small saucepan the yolks 
 of four eggs, four teaspoonfuls of sugar, the peel of half a lemon, 
 or a quarter of that grated, a grain of salt; mix all well, then add 
 half a pint of milk ; set the whole on the fire, stir continually with 
 a wooden spoon till it gets thick and smooth; but do not let it 
 boil, or it will curd; then put it in a basin to cool, stirring now 
 and then; if handy, pass it through a sieve, it gives it a nice 
 appearance, and serve either in glasses or cups, with any fresh 
 or stewed fruit, orange peel, or any essence, brandy, or rum, 
 may be used for flavouring. 
 
 When at our friend Lindley’s house in Yorkshire, I took a gill of 
 cream, whipped it, and mixed it with the custard when cold. It 
 made it very white and delicate. The custard may be whipped while 
 being made. 
 
 You wish to know what I did with the white of the eggs, and per- 
 fectly right that you should. Well, I put them in a basin with a 
 very little bit of salt, then with a whisk I beat them till firm and as 
 white as snow, then I add four teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, mix 
 it well; I put a pint of milk to boil in a very clean sauté, or 
 frying-pan, and, with the aid of a spoon, I scoop off the white in the 
 shape of eggs, dropping them in the milk, letting them remain till 
 done, turning them occasionally; take them out, and serve when 
 cold, pouring some of the custard over; the remaining milk was used 
 for puddings. 
 
 Even now, Eloise, you do not seem satisfied, ‘so I send you a 
 receipt for a souffié. It seems to you, no doubt, very simple; let me 
 tell you, however, that it is so only in appearance; the great secret 
 
 mie 
 
 - 
 
 * c \ 
 
 cw q 
 
 Oe aye ae ia ot 
 
SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS, 137 
 
 _ is in properly beating the white of the eggs; therefore, if you fail in 
 your attempt, do not ; blame me, the details of the receipt being quite 
 accurate. 
 
 366. Lag Pudding, or Omelette Souffié.—Break four eggs ; 
 carefully separate the white from the yolk, put both in different 
 basins; add to the yolk three teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar 
 and one of flour, a little grated orange or lemon peel, or any other 
 flavour you prefer; stir the whole for five minutes, then beat 
 the white of the eges with a whisk; when firm, mix lightly with 
 the yolk till forming a nice, smooth, light, and rather firm sub- 
 stance; then put it either in a tin pan, cake pan, or a common 
 pan, which can stand the heat of the oven, buttering it well. 
 
 If in a tin dish, shape it in pyramids with a knife, put it in 
 a moderate oven from ten to twelve minutes, sugar over and 
 
 serve. When nearly d done, an incision or two with the point of Be 
 
 knife may be made through the thin crust; it will make it lighter. 
 You may also put two ounces of butter in the frying-pan, and 
 when hot put in your mixture, and toss it round three or four 
 times; put it on a dish, bake as above. Ten minutes will do it, 
 
 0 367, How to vary Bread or any Custard Puddings.—Have 
 
 ey goer mn 
 
 some slices of bread cut thin and buttered ; lay them in the dish 
 singly ; pour in the custard, No. 365, and bake gently, or place 
 in a pan with a little water in it. 
 
 These may be altered thus :— 
 
 By throwing in some currants. 
 
 Or bruised ratafia cakes. 
 
 Or sultana rasins. 
 
 Or Malaga ditto. 
 
 Or French prunes. 
 
 Or dried cherries. 
 
 Or stewed rhubarb. 
 
 Or apple; or, in fact, any fruit according to fancy. 
 
 Well boiled rice, macaroni, vermicelli, &c., may be used; the 
 
 eustard always being poured over, and sifted sugar on the top. 
 New style, as a second-class mixture: two eggs, two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, and milk enough to make it thickish. 
 
 368. Gooseberry... Hoot—Put in a pan a quart of green 
 
 gooseberries, with a wineglass of water and half a pound of 
 sugar; stew on a slow fire for twenty minutes, keep stirring; put 
 in ‘basin, and whip a pint of cream; when the fruit is cold; mix 
 
 Sa 
 
138 SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS. 
 
 with the cream, and serve in cups or hollow dish, or with 
 pastry round it. | igh 
 Apple may be done the same way. 
 Currants and raspberries the same. 
 Red rhubarb the same. 
 Cherries may be done the samé, having previously beet 
 stoned. If too much syrup, add 4 little isinglass. 
 
 369. Orange Salad: — Choose six oranges not too large, 
 cut them in thin slices crossways, remove the pips, lay them flat 
 in a dish, cover over with a quarter of a pound of sugar, a gill 
 of brandy, rum; or Madeira; stir them; and serve. 
 
 370. Strawberry Salad.—A large pottle of ripe strawberries, 
 picked and put into a basin with two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a 
 pinch of powdered cinnamon, a gill of brandy; stir gently, and 
 serve. 
 
 Currants and raspberries the same. ae : 
 
 As all fruits and vegetables are destined for the use of man, 
 these should bé partaken of by all classes when in season, as 
 
 they are invaluable for health: 
 
 371. Velvet Cream.—A very excellent dish is made thus :— 
 Put in a dessert glass a thick layer of strawberry jam or any 
 other preserve, and place over it about a pint of hot snow 
 cream_mixture,..No, 352;. when cold, the top may be ornas 
 mented with fresh or preserved fruit. 
 
 372. Rice Croquettes—Make some of the above mixture very 
 stiff; when cold, roll it, or serve it in any shape you like. Egg 
 and bread-crumb, and fry quickly in hot fat in a frying-pan. 
 
 Sugar over. 
 
 373. Lemon Pudding.—Put in a basin @ quarter of a potind. 
 of flour, same of sugar, same of bread crumbs and chopped suet, 
 the juice of one good-sized lemon, and the peel grated; two 
 eggs, and enough milk to make it the consistency of porridge ; 
 boil in a basin for one hour; serve with or without sauce: 
 
 374. Dripping Pudding.—Three eggs and their weight in 
 dripping, two tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar; beat them up until — 
 a cream, add a few currants, and the flour gradually, until ib 
 forms a stiff paste; bake in cups previously buttered, 
 
oe SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS. 139 
 
 375. Potato Pudding.—One pound of potatoes boiled and well 
 ‘hashed, a quarter of & pound of butter stirred in whilst warm, 
 two ounces of sugar, the rind of half a lemon chopped fine, with 
 the juicé, & teacupful of milk; butter a tin, put in the mixttire, 
 and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour; two eggs may be 
 added. 
 
 1 BLU: Dough Pudding 2 with ik Aopli. —Cut four apples into 
 dice, put over two ounces of sugar, halfa pound of chopped suet, 
 one pound of flour, and half'a pint of water; bake m a pie dish 
 or & whould, o¢ boil in a basin, as a pudding; sweet sauce may 
 be poured over. 
 
 877. First Class s Yorkshire Pudding.—Beat up two eggs 
 in a basin, add to them three good tablespoonfuls of flour, with 
 a pint of mill by degrees, and a little salt; butter the pan, bake 
 
 half an hour, or iis under the meat, cut it in four, turn it, 
 
 and when set on both sides it is done. A tin dish one itich iid 
 
 a half deep and eight inches wide, is the most suitable for such 
 proportion. 
 
 378. Second. Class.—Put in a basin four tablespoonfuls of 
 flour, adda quarter of 4 teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper, 
 ‘beat one ege with a pint of milk, pour over on the flour by 
 | degrees till smooth, and proceed as above. 
 
 379. Third. Class.—If no eggs, chop two ounces of beef suet 
 fine, add a little soda, mix as above, and bake the same. A 
 } little chopped parsley, chives, or aromatic herbs, may be intro- 
 / duced in either of the above. These receipts are good with 
 any kind of roasted or baked meat, or poultry. To facilitate 
 the turning, whet one side is brown and the pudditig well set, 
 cut it into several pieces, tiring with a knife or & fork. If 
 preferred served whole, put a pias on the top of the baking tin, 
 turn it over, and slip it back: let it remain in the tin ten 
 minutes longer, and serve either round or separate. 
 
 380. Pancakes.—Put the pan on the fire with a tablespoonfal 
 of lard, let it melt, pour off all that is not wanted, then pour in 
 thrée tablespoonfuls: of the following batter:— 
 
 Break four eggs in a basin, add four small tablespoonfuls of 
 flour, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, alittle salt; beat all well, mixing 
 by degrees half a pint of milk, a little more or less, depending 
 
 it on the size of the eggs and the quality of the flour. It must form — 
 
 peak 
 
 ate ie 
 
140 STEWED FRUITS, 
 
 arather thick batter. A little ginger, cinnamon, or any other 
 flavour you fancy. Twoeggs only may be used, but in this case 
 use a little more flour and milk. When set, and one side 
 brownish, lay hold of the frying-pan at the extremity of the 
 handle, give it a sudden but slight jerk upwards, and the cake 
 will turn over on the other side; which, when brown, dish up 
 with sifted sugar over. Serve with lemon. Chopped apples may 
 be added to the batter; currants and sultanas can be mixed 
 with it. 
 
 381. Apple Fritters—Peel and slice crossways, a quarter of | 
 
 an inch thick, some apples, remove the core,and dip them one after 
 the other in the following batter: Put in a basin about two ounces 
 of flour, a little salt, two teaspoonfuls of oil, and the yolk of an 
 egg, moistened by degrees with water, stirring all the while 
 with a spoon, till forming a smooth consistency, to the thickness 
 ‘of cream, then beat the: white of the egg till firm, mixing it 
 _with the batter; it is then ready to fry; use any fruit as fritters. 
 
 PSMA MHA pa nt MNS 
 
 “If no oil, use an ounce of butter previously melted, adding it to | 
 
 the batter before the white of the egg is used. 
 
 Apple Fritters Sintlificd.- Whew: eas and cut, put 
 sugar over, add a little lemon juice or spirits, let the pieces 
 soak two hours, then dip each piece in flour, and have ready a 
 frying-pan, with at least two inches deep of fat. When hot, 
 put the apples in one at a time, turn over with a slice as they 
 are doing, and serve with sugar.over. All kinds of ripe pears 
 may be done in the same way. 
 
 382. College Pudding.—Put half a pound of crumbs into a 
 
 basin, a quarter of a pound of chopped suet, the same of 
 currants, two eggs, two ounces of sugar, a little nutmeg and salt, 
 
 and a little milk; mix all together, make round balls, LSE 
 and fry in hot fat till a nice colour; dish up with sugar over; a 
 glass of brandy or rum in it is exceedingly good. 
 
 383. Buttered Apples.—Peel, slice, and core one pound of 
 apples, put into a frying-pan about two ounces of butter, add 
 the apple, and cover over with two ounces of pounded sugar ; 
 put them in the oven until done. A very nice dish for children. 
 
 “When done, they may be dished up on a nice crisp piece of. 
 
 toast with sugar over. 
 
 384. Stewed Fruits.—These, at those periods of the year 
 
yaa 
 
 STEWED FRUITS. 141 
 
 when Nature has ordained that they shall come to perfection 
 
 without artificial means, are as wholesome an article of food as 
 can be partaken of, as they cool the blood and are perfectly 
 harmless. 
 
 They are easily done, and are cheap. In the following 
 receipts, which I will mark as lessons, one pound is the quantity 
 named. 
 
 Apples. 1st Lesson.—Peel one pound of apples, cut in slices, 
 remove the core, put into a stewpan with three or four ounces 
 of white pounded sugar, one ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls 
 of water; stir gently on a slow fire until tender; use hot or cold 
 when required. Brown sugar may be used. 
 
 2nd Lesson.—To the above add the juice of half a lemon or 
 of one orange, and a little of the peel of either, or a small piece 
 of cinnamon, or in powder. 
 
 Red Rhubarb. 1st Lesson.—Cut one pound of rhubarb one 
 inch long, put into a pan with two tablespoonfuls of water and 
 three ounces of white powdered sugar; stir on a ree fire till 
 tender. % 
 
 2nd Lesson.—Stew with brown sugar: green rhubarb requires : 
 peeling. Stir more if old. 
 
 3rd Lesson.—Cut a pound of the common rhubarb, put in an 
 iron pot with four ounces of brown sugar; stir well with a 
 spoon until it is quite thick and adheres to it; take it out to 
 cool. It can be used, spread on bread, for tea or supper. 
 
 pyxGreen Gooseberries, Ist Lesson.—One pound of goose-— . 
 berries with six ounces of sugar; boil with two tablespoonfuls. 
 
 of water, turning them well; fee and keep until cold. Or by 
 mixing cream with it, it will make gooseberry fool. ; 
 
 Greengages, Orleans plums, egg plums, cherries, currants, red, 
 white, and black, raspberries, mulberries, and strawberries, may 
 all be dong the same way. 
 
 The following is another very nice way, and may be used for 
 several fruits in winter. Cherries being the most difficult, we 
 
 will name that in particular. All the others’ can be doné 
 like it. 
 
 pean! the saat half off of one pound of cherries, put into. ¢: a pan & 
 
 Pd ihe 
 
142. ‘SWEET AND FRUIT CAKES, — ne 
 
 with eight ounces of sugar; set on the stove for a ie ee" : 
 then add half a pound ‘of red currants, and the same of rasp- 
 berries; stew altogether until getting tender and the juice 
 becomes quite thick ; put by until cold. It may be used with ~ 
 pastry or with bread. 
 Siberian crabs, cranberries, damsons, and all other fruits, 
 the same way. 
 
 All the above make a very nice light and quick dish for 
 supper done as follows :— 
 
 Cut some nice slices of bread half an ies thick, dip them 
 in amilk which is sweetened, or sprinkle sugar over, then dip it 
 into some batter of milk and flour, and fry nicely, or put some 
 butter in a tin dish, bread over, and put in an oven. When 
 quite hot and nearly hard, put some of the above fruit ever and 
 serve. 
 
 385. Plum Cake.—Weigh one pound and a half of flour, — 
 | one of currants, well washed, one of butter, one of sugar, nine 
 eggs; put into a good-sized basin the butter, which well work, 
 
 > with clean hands, until it is like a cream; in about ten minutes — 
 i it ‘isready ; ; then add a little sugar and the eggs by degrees, and 
 ah “then the flour, then add the currants and line a cake-hoop with 
 alts paper, put the mixture in, set it in a warm place for one hour, 
 and bake it for one hour in a slow oven. Half or even a 
 quarter of the quantity may be made. 
 
 886. Common Sort.—Put in @ basin half a pound of buiter, . 
 work it well, add half a pound of sugar and four eggs, beat all 
 well together, then add half a pint of milk, two pounds of flour, 
 a quarter of a pound of caraway-seeds or half a pound of 
 plums; put it in a hoop or deep pie-dish, and bake two hours. — 
 
 To ascertain if the cake is done, take a piece of dry wood 
 or skewer, pass it into the cake, and if it comes out dry, itis 
 done. . 
 
 887. Ground Pike Cake.—Break five. eggs a a pa 
 ae place in another, containing hot water, W whip the eggs for 
 
 ten minutes till very light, then mix in by degrees half a 
 
 of ground rice, six ounces of powdered sugar, beat i 
 flavour may be introduced; pour into ees 
 
 % a half see te 
 
yeas FRUIT "CARES, 
 
 oaneee two. eges in a pan, add two \ 
 iblespoo f four, a pinch of salt; moisten with a pint and | 
 ; half of ete set on the fire, boil twenty minutes, or till it 
 forms thickish smooth consistency ; ; then add two ounces of 
 - pounded sugar, one of butter; putin either a little orange flower 
 - water, or a drop of any essence you choose, grated orange or 
 _ lemon peel. One dozen of bruised ratafias will be an improve- 
 ment, put in at the same time as the sugar. Previous to using, 
 add to the cream one ounce of butter, which you haye pr evionsly 
 made ¥ very hot. This may be used for all kinds of pastry, in- 
 stead of jam. 
 
 888. Ginger Cake.—Half a pound of sugar, half a pound of 
 butter, one ounce and a half of ground ginger, six eggs, beat 
 well, stirring one pound and a half of flour, and add as much 
 “milk, a little warm, as will make a nice stiff dough for bread ; 
 vhake 3 in pan; it will take two hours. 
 
 Sn eg eee 
 
 388s. Hock Cakes.—Put in a basin two pounds of flour, 
 half of sugar, half currants, half of butter, three eggs, beat well, 
 make them into balls or rock, the size of eggs ; bake on baling pen 
 sheets; a little milk may be added. : 
 
 889. Common Gingerbread. —Put on a slab or table 
 pound of flour, make a ring of it; put half a pint of treacle 
 in, mix well together-till forming a stiff paste, working it well. 
 Put some flour i in a basin, to which add your dough; it will 
 keep thus for seven or eight weeks. When you want to use it, 
 | put in’ any quantity of ground ginger you require, according ‘ 
 to taste ; mix well, roll thin, cut any size you like; pieces about 
 the size of a crown are best; then put them on a baking- | 
 | shect. bake for a few minutes, till crisp. These cakes will keep . 
 a long while if put in an air-tight case. An ounce of butter 
 | may be used to every pound of paste. | 3 es a 
 ‘They are excellent i in assisting digestion after dinner. 
 
 390. Ric ae ‘Wash one a of ne th itina etm gaat 
 
 a 1 tle nutmeg, or a ae of cin 
 
 eae 
 
 vada tw 
 
2 oe 
 
 Sy Mea et ee eer 
 
 144 SWEET AND FRUIT CAKES. 
 
 quarter -of a pound of sugar; place all in a greased pan or tin ~ 
 
 breadpan ; bake one hour, and serve with sugar or jam over. 
 
 391. The same a Cheaper Way.—Add to one pound of rice, — 
 
 when boiled, two ounces of chopped suet, a spoonful of flour, a 
 
 quart of skim milk, some brown sugar or treacle; bake in large 
 pan; eat cold; and fruit of any kind may be mixed with it. 
 
 392. Apple Cake.—Butter a pie-dish near a quarter of an 
 inch thick, throw in a large quantity of bread-crumbs, as much 
 
 as will stick, when pressed well, on the butter; then have some — 
 
 apples already stewed down and sweetened, as No 384, of which 
 nearly fill the dish, put one ounce of butter in bits, cover 
 over with bread-crumbs, also half an inch thiek, put into hot 
 oven; when done, pass a knife round and turn it out, sugar over, 
 and glaze with a red-hot shovel. 
 
 If used hot, a little rum put round it and lighted is very nice. 
 
 393. Spice Cake.—To one pound and a half of dough add 
 
 half a pound of butter,*half of currants; half of sugar, half an 
 ounce of spice, beat all well together, and bake in a mould one 
 hour. 
 
 394, Little Milk Cake for Breakfast.—Place on a table or 
 
 slab one pound of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, two of sugar, 
 
 three of fresh yeast, or a very small piece of German, two ~ 
 ounces of butter and one egg; have some new milk, pour in a | 
 gill, mix all together, adding more milk to form a nice dough, — 
 
 then put some flour ina cloth, put the dough in, and lay it ina 
 warm place; let it rise for about two hours, cut it in pieces the 
 size of eggs, roll them even, and mark the top with asharp knife ; 
 ego over and bake quick; serve hot or cold. a 
 
 A Common Sort.—Only yeast, salt, milk, and butter, and — 
 al 
 
 proceed as before. nen 
 
 Cottage Sort.—To one pound of flour, two ounces of lard or — 
 
 dripping, the yeast and skim milk. 
 
 Sweet Sort—To one pound of flour three teaspoonfuls of — 
 yeast, two ounces of lard or dripping, quarter of a pound of 
 sugar, a few currants or caraway seeds: bake quick when well 
 
 risen, | fly: eas 
 
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 Z 
 ‘ 
 
SWEET AND FRUIT CAKES. 145 
 
 4xX395. Eccles Cake.—To a quarter of a pound of currants half | 
 a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, some lemon-peel chopped fine, } 
 one ounce of sugar, roll out shout a quarter of a pound of puff — 
 peste No. 315, roll it round the size of a small plate, and nearly 
 an inch thick, then put a tablespoonful of the mixture over 
 | it, roll another piece of paste over it, and bake a nice delicate | 
 r colour. 
 
 I 
 
 £%396. Bread Apple Cake.—Well butter a tart-dish of any size, _ 
 
 | about three inches deep, cut some slices of bread_quarter.of an 
 
 inch thick, which lay in it so that the bottom and sides are 
 quite covered, stew some apple nearly dry, as No. 384, put them | 
 on the bread until the dish is full, cover over with more butter | 
 and bread, and bake in a hot oven for half an hour; remove it i 
 
 - from the dish; turn over, and dish it up with sugar on the top. 
 
 {Xx 397. Tipsy Cake.—Cut a small Savoy cake in slices, put 
 
 them into a basin, and pour some white wine and a little rum 
 
 over ; let soak for a few hours, put into a dish, and serve with 
 
 some custard round. It may be decorated with a few blanched 
 almonds or whipt cream and fruit. 
 
 These may be made with small sponge cakes, by soaking 
 
 them in some white wine, in which currant-jelly has been 
 
 | dissolved; take twelve of them stale, which will cost sixpence 
 
 _ \soak them well, put them in a dish, cover them with jam or 
 
 elly, and thus make four layers, decorating the top with cut 
 
 : reserved fruit; dish with custard or whipt cream round. 
 
 398. Plain Cake.—Mix two pounds of dry flour with 
 four ounces of clean dripping melted in a pint of milk, three 
 tablespoonfuls_of yeast, and two well beaten eggs, mix well 
 together, and set aside in a warm place to rise, then’ lenéad well 
 and make into cakes; flour a tin, and place it in the oven in a 
 tin ; carraway-seeds or currants may be added, sugar over. 
 
 399. Soda Cake.—Half a pound of good clean dripping, one 
 pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, not quite half an ounce of 
 soda; beat the dripping well with the sifted sugar, and beat the 
 flour in with the soda; bake in tins in a slow oven for one hour 
 
 and a half. 
 
 _ Another.—Half a pound of dripping, half a pound of moist 
 _ sugar, half a pound of currants, one pound of flour, a tea- 
 | L 
 
146 BREAD. 
 
 spoonful of carbonate of soda, three eggs, well beaten and 
 
 mixed with half a pint of warm milk; then mix altogether and 
 bake in a tin lined with writing paper. 
 
 400. Foreign Biscwits—A quarter of a pound of butter 
 mix with a pound of flour, dissolve a quarter of a pound of 
 sugar in half a pint of warm new milk, pour gradually to the 
 flour, dissolve half a teaspoonful of salt of tartar in half a tea- 
 cupful of cold water, add it to the flour, and make it into a stiff 
 paste, roll out, and cut in small cakes with a wineglass ; bake in 
 a quick oven immediately. 
 
 401. Ground Rice Cake.—S8ix ounces of ground rice, six ounces 
 
 of flour, four eggs, half a pound of sugar, quarter of a pound of — 
 
 clean dripping, a small piece of volatile salts; beat all well together, 
 bake one hour in a pan. <A few currants may be added, and 
 also a little milk, if required. 
 
 402. The bread which I strongly recommend for the labouring — 
 
 class, or those who shall get their bread “by the sweat of their brow,” 
 is that made from unbolted flour, or whole meal. It is only the 
 
 effeminate and delicate that should partake of fine flour. The mass © 
 
 of bread is increased one fifth, and the price lowered, between the 
 difference of the price of bran as flour, or as fodder for cattle. 
 
 Liebig says, “The separation of the bran from the flour by bolting, 
 is a matter of luxury, and injurious rather than beneficial as regards 
 the nutritive power of the bread.” 
 
 It is only in more modern times the sifted flour has been known 
 and used, and has been followed by the poor, to imitate the luxury of 
 the wealthy, at the expense of their health. Certain it is, that 
 where whole meal is used as bread, the population have better diges- 
 tive organs than where it is not. 
 
 In Ireland, amongst the poor, it is almost a disgrace to eat brown 
 
 bread. During the year of the famine, being at Malahide, I saw a 
 
 female, without shoes or stockings, go into a baker’s shop, purchase 
 two loaves, one white, and the other brown; the white she carried 
 in her hand, the brown she hid under her everlasting cloak—her 
 pride would n6t allow it to be seen. These ignorant people should be 
 told that there is hardly a family in England but what have on their 
 table for breakfast and tea a loaf of each kind of bread, white or 
 brown. 
 
 If the dough is made and well raised in the pan, if in small quan- 
 
 tities, as for burs, &c. throw some flour on the table, put the dough a 
 
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BREAD. 147 
 
 ~ over, and roll it several times to form it solid; then shapé the loaf or 
 _ bun; let them rise twenty minutes in a warm place, and bake 
 
 — according to size. 
 
 No 
 
 403. Cottage Bread, No. 1——Put into a large pan fourteen 
 pounds of flour, add to one quart of warm water a quarter of a 
 int of brewer's yeast, or two ounces of German yeast, make a 
 hole in the flour, and pour in the water and the yeast; stir it 
 well up with a wooden spoon till it forms a thickish paste, throw 
 a little flour over, and leave it in a warm room; in about one 
 hour or seventy-five minutes it will have risen and burst 
 
 _ through the covering of flour, then add more warm water and 
 
 four teaspoonfuls of salt, until it forms, when kneaded, a rather 
 stiff dough; it cannot be too much worked; then let it remain 
 eovered with 4 cloth for about another hour; or an hour and a 
 half; the time; as well as the quantity of water it takes, depends 
 #reatly on the quality of the flour. Cold water may be used in 
 Simmer, 
 
 Then divide the dough into five pieces; if the flour is old 
 and good they will weigh four pounds each, and take about one 
 hour and forty minutes to bake; the oven should be well 
 heated, and sufficiently large to bake the quantity of dough you 
 make at one time; if the oven is small, make only half the 
 quantity ; the door should be well closed. If the bottom of the 
 oven is too hot, a tile placed on it will prevent too much bottom 
 erust; or a baking sheet, kept halfan inch above the bottom of 
 the oven, will have the same effect. 
 
 In some places they bake in tins, in others in brown pans; if 
 so, the dough may be made softer, and allowed to rise a little 
 longer, though I do not approve of bread being too light, as it is 
 both tasteless and unprofitable. 
 
 404, Milk Bread and Rolls.—Weigh a pound of flour, put 
 it on the"table-dresser, or in a pan, make a hole in the centre, put 
 in a quarter of an ounce of German yeast, one egg, two ounces of 
 
 _ butters quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, have half 
 
 a pint of warm milk, put a little in, mix all well together, then 
 add by degrees the flour, and also the milk ; it may not take the 
 half pint, but depends on the flour; stir all well, work it for a 
 few minutes, until itis a stiff dough; take a little flour and rub 
 off the paste which attaches to the side of the basin, roll it 
 
 round, throw some flour on the bottom of the basin, put in the 
 
 dough, keep it In a warm place for two hours, or till it has 
 L 2 
 
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 148 BREAD, 
 
 nicely risen, then throw some flour on the board, cut the paste 
 off in the size of eggs, flatten them with the hand, make them 
 long and pointed, and make a line in the centre with the back of 
 the knife, egg over with a paste-brush, let them rise half an 
 hour longer in a warm place, bake twenty minutes in rather a 
 sharp oven. They ought to be of a nice yellow colour, and 
 light. Ifthe yeast is doubtful, add a little more; brown yeast 
 is preferable. 
 
 Another plainer, No. 2.—Put in the centre of the flour two 
 ounces of lard, or good dripping, then add an ounce of German 
 - yeast, a little salt, a little tepid water, with which dissolve” 
 both yeast and lard; mix it with the flour. 
 
 405. Plainer still, No. 3.—Put a.quarter of an ounce of 
 yeast, galt, ‘sugar. ae elionn! add half a pint of tepid water, 
 proceed as above’ ; sugar may be omitted; or make a single loaf 
 of it in a tin pan, or toll it into a lump; make a cross at the top . 
 with a sharp knife, egg over, or milk and water ; bake in rather 
 sharp oven, which is easily ascertained by placing at hand on it; 
 if you cannot endure it fora quarter of a minute it is fit for 
 bread, but if it burns it is too hot. 
 
 406. The brown bread, or that made from whole meal, is done 
 in the same way; the sponge will take a little longer to rise. 
 
 Milk used in these breads will occasion it to go a little 
 further, and keep it moist longer; one pint is sufficient, and you 
 get one pound more bread; it also improves bad flour, from the ~ 
 addition of gluten in the milk. A little potato starch or rice 
 starch will improve bad flour, and occasion it to rise better. 
 
 The following are two variations for these breads:—Put — 
 seven pounds of flour into a pan, mix with three pints of warm 
 milk or water, an ounce of yeast, one ounce of salt, mix well 
 with the flour, set it in a warm place for three hours, form into 
 small loves and bake at once. 
 
 407. Rice Bread.—To fourteen pounds of dough add one 
 pound of ground rice, boiled in milk until in pulp and cold; 
 bake in small loaves. 
 
 408. Brown Rye Bread.—To three pounds of flour add one 
 
 pound of rye flour, the proportions of yeast, salt and water as 
 above, and may be mfxed all at once; it will take a little longer 
 
 to bake. 
 
A SERIES OF SAUCES. 149 
 
 E409. Good Keeping Bread,—Mix one quarter of a pound of | 
 _{ very light mashed potatoes with four pounds of flour, made into 
 dough for bread, is very good; this kind of bread will keep 
 
 moist for a long time. 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 410. Melted Butter—From whence is this extraordinary word 
 derived? what learned pundit could have given it birth P—a word 
 which recalls so many pleasing moments, when the palate has been 
 gratified by its peculiar fragrance and taste. It is, no doubt, an im- 
 portation at the time of the Conquest, but although having been 
 domesticated amongst us fur near 800 years, we are very far behind 
 our allies on the other side of the channel in its numerons adaptations 
 and applications. The great diplomatist, Talleyrand, used to say, 
 that England had 120 religions, but only one sauce, and that 
 melted butter. He was very near the truth, but, at the same time, 
 he should have told how to engraft 119 sauces to the original 
 one, the same as the various sects he mentions, have been offshoots 
 from the primitive one which was first established in this country. 
 
 I will now endeavour to prevent his words being any longer a 
 truism, and will point out how that one sauce— melted butter (French 
 butter sauce)—can be multiplied ad infimtwm, according to the ability 
 of the artist. 
 
 I must first premise that my melted butter is not for the table of 
 
 the wealthy, but the simple artizan. I¢ is not to consist of two- 
 thirds butter and one-third cream, warmed gradually with a box 
 spoon, but of two ounces of butter, and two ounces of flour, half a 
 teaspoonful of salt, a quarter that of pepper, mixed together with 
 & spoon, put into a quart pan, with a pint of cold water; place 
 it on the fire, and stir continually, take it out when it begins to 
 simmer, then add one more ounce of butter, stir till melted, and 
 it is ready for use, or as the foundation of the following nat, 
 sauces. 
 _ This melted butter is fit to serve at the best tables, by dain 
 three ounces of butter; take, as a guide, that the back of the spoon, 
 in being removed, should always be covered with the butter or sauce; 
 this is essential, as I find that flour varies very much. If you let 
 it boil, it will immediately get thinner. 
 
 Melted Butter, No. 2.—The following is also very good as the 
 foundation of sauces—it is not so rich, and will keep longer: One 
 
150 A SERIES OF SAUCES. 
 
 ounce of butter, one and a half of flour, a little more salt, pepper, 
 and a gill more water; simmer, and serve. 
 
 These melted butters may be improved slightly by adding half a 
 tablespoonful of vinegar. 
 
 With half of the above quantity make the following sauces. Each 
 ingredient to be mixed in the saucepan. Stir and serve when nearly 
 boiling. 
 
 411. SERIES OF SAUCES. 
 
 Anchovy Sauce.—Add two tablespoonsful of essence of anchovies, 
 and mix well, 
 
 Harvey's Sauce.—The same of Harvey’s sauce. 
 
 Soyers Relish.—The same of Soyer’s relish. 
 
 Soyer’s Mustard Sauce.—One teaspoonful of Soyer’s mustard. 
 
 Chilt Vinegar.—Three teaspoonsful of Chili vinegar. 
 
 Egg Sauce.—Two hard boiled eggs cut in dice and added. 
 
 Caper Sauce.—Two tablespoonsful of chopped capers added: if 
 ao capers, use pickled gherkins. 
 
 Fennell Sauce.—The same of chopped fennel. 
 
 Parsley and Butter.—The same of chopped parsley. 
 
 Mild Onion Sauce.—Boil four onions in salt and water, take them 
 out, chop them up, and add them to the above with a little more galt, 
 and a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little milk or cream. 
 
 Sage and Onion.—To the above, a tablespoonful of chopped green 
 sage and a little more pepper. 
 
 White Sauce.—The yolk of one egg, and mix with milk or cream 
 instead of water. A blade of mace is an improvement when boiling, 
 and stir, 
 
 Celery Sauce—Boil in a half-pint of white gravy, if handy, if not, 
 water, one fine head of celery, cut in one-inch lengths and well 
 washed,—it will take about twenty minutes,—add it to the melted 
 butter. The yolk of an egg beat up and stirred in is an improvement; 
 it may require a little more salt. Serve with poultry. 
 
 Cucumber Sauce.—Cut up two cucumbers lengthways, remove the 
 seeds, cut them in one inch pieces, boil them in a gill of white gravy, 
 with salt and pepper, add it to the melted butter; simmer and 
 zerve, Sugar is an improvement. 
 
 Vegetable Marrow, when young, the same as above. 
 
 412. Brown Sauce.—Put a quarter of a pound of butter and eight 
 ounces of flour in a saucepan, and set it on a slow fire; keep stirring 
 
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 A SERIES OF SAUCES. 151 
 
 _ for ten minutes, or till light brown, then take it off and let it get 
 
 nearly cold, then pour over sufficient brown stock, No. 2, to make 
 
 it a nice thickness, or like thinnish melted butter; then boil for half 
 
 an hour, skim, strain it into a basin, and use where and when 
 
 required. If you have this sauce by you, use it instead of melted 
 butter for brown sauces. To make it darker, a little colouring may 
 be added. 
 
 413. White Sauce,—Put into a convenient sized stew pan four 
 ounces of butter, and eight ounces of flour; set on fire, keep stirring 
 as above; take the pan from the fire and stir until nearly cool, then 
 pour on sufficient white stock, No. 1, until it is a nice consistency ; 
 put it on the fire and boil for a quarter of an hour; keep stirring 
 continually; pass it through a sieve, and keep for use. 
 
 Half a pint of boiled milk will make it look whiter. 
 
 This sauce, when handy, is the foundation of all white sauces, for 
 celery, cauliflower, mushroom, cucumber, vegetable marrow, &c., or 
 any white sauces, instead of using melted butter. Observe, Eloise, 
 that I only send you these two preceding sauces in the event of a 
 little dinner party, as they belong to a higher class of cookery. 
 
 FISH SAUCES. 
 
 Shrimp Sauce.—Pick half a pint of shrimps, and boil the skins 
 in a gill of water for fifteen minutes; strain the water, and add it, 
 with the flesh of the shrimps, to half a pint of melted butter, and 
 simmer for a few minutes. Add a little anchovy. 
 
 Lobster Sauce.—Get the raw eggs, or the inside spawn of the 
 lobster, put them on a plate with a bit of butter, and with the blade 
 of a knife mash them, or pound them in a mortar; this, when put 
 into the hot melted butter, will make it red. Cut the lobster up 
 in small pieces, and add the soft part from the belly with it to the 
 melted butter (a middling sized lobster will make a quart of sauce). 
 A little cayenne or Harvey’s sauce is relishing. Boil and serve. 
 
 Crab and Crayfish.—The same as lobster. 
 
 Mussel and Oyster——Open twelve oysters or thirty-six mussels, 
 beard, and blanch them lightly in their own liquor; take them out, 
 reduce the liquor, and add them to the half-pint of melted butter; 
 when boiling add a little cayenne, and one ounce of butter. A drop 
 of cream or boiling milk will improve it. Or, when your oysters are 
 raw in the pan, add half a gill of milk and a few peppercorns; blanch 
 lightly, mix half a teaspoonful of flour with half an ounce of butter, 
 put in bit by bit, stir round, boil, and serve. A little cayenne will 
 improve it, also a drop of cream. 
 
152 A SERIES OF SAUCES. 
 
 Cod-Liver Sauce.—Half a pound of cod-liver, previously boiled, 
 cut in large dice, with a little anchovy sauce, to half a-pint of melted 
 butter. Mix the same as No. 410. 
 
 Pickle Sauce.—One tablespoonful of chopped pickle or piccallily, 
 one ditto of the vinegar from it; add to half a pint of melted butter, 
 and boil for a few minutes. Good for fish, meat, and poultry. 
 
 414, Apple Sauce.—Peel six good-sized apples, cut in four pieces, 
 cut out the core, slice them fine, put into a stew pan with one ounce 
 of brown sugar and a gill of water; stew till in pulp, and serve with 
 roast pork, goose, and duck. 
 
 415. Mint Sauce.—Chop three tablespoonfuls of green mint, put 
 it into a basin with three of brown sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 a quarter of pepper, and half a pint of vinegar. Use it with roast 
 lamb; also good with cold meat and poultry. 
 
 A416. Horseradish Sauce.— Grate two tablespoonfuls of horse-— 
 radish, which put iito a basin; add to it one teaspoonful of mustard, 
 one of salt, a quarter of pepper, one of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of 
 vinegar; moisten with a little milk or cream until of a thickish 
 appearance. Serve with rumpsteak, cold meat, &c. 
 
 417. Wine and Spirit Sauce.—Add to half a pint of melted 
 butter, without salt, two teaspoonfuls of white or brown sugar, a 
 glass of brandy, or rum, or sherry, or any liquors. 
 
 418. Hotel Keeper’s Sauce.—Mix in half a pint of melted butter 
 one tablespoonful of hotel keeper’s butter, No. 426; warm it and 
 serve. 
 
 419, A White Sauce for boiled Fowls, &c. &c.—If for two fowls, 
 add to one piiit of melted butter (No. 410) two yolks of raw eggs, 
 which mix well with a gill of cream, "6¥ milk, and when the melted 
 butter is near boiling mix in and stir very quick, do not let it boil; 
 add a little grated nutmeg and stir in a little more butter, season 
 with a little more white pepper, and the juice of a lemon, and pour 
 over your poultry. This is not an every day sauce, butisexceedingly | 
 useful to know. \ 
 
 A little chopped parsley, ham, or tongue sprinkled over the fowl | 
 after the sauce is on, gives it a pleasing appearance. 
 
 Or parsley chopped fine, or capers, gherkins, mushrooms, or tongue | 
 cut into dice, or green peas, may be added to this sauce to change it. 
 
 420. A sharp Brown Sauce for broiled Fowls and Meat.—Put a ~ 
 tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stew pan with one of Chili 
 vinegar, one of common vinegar, one of colouring, three of water, 
 
fa 
 
 A SERIES OF SAUCES, 153 
 
 Bo ¢ 
 - two of mushroom ketchup, two of Harvey’s sauce, one of anchovy, 
 
 - anda pint of melted butter, No. 2; let it simmer until it becomes 
 
 rather thick to adhere to the back of the spoon, add half a teaspoon- 
 
 _ ful of sugar. This is excellent to almost all kinds of broiled meats, 
 
 and gives a nice relish to stews, fish, poultry, &c. 
 
 421. The same simplified.—Put into a pan one tablespoonful of 
 chopped onion, three spoonfuls of vinegar, one of colouring, six of 
 water, three of either Harvey’s sauce, or ketchup, a little pepper and 
 salt, a pint of melted butter, boil till thickish ; serve for the same as 
 above. 
 
 422. Onion Sauce.—Peel and cut six onions im slices; put in a 
 
 stew pan, with two ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of 
 
 sugar, a half one of pepper; place on a slow fire to simmer till in a 
 pulp, stirring them now and then to prevent them getting brown, 
 then add one tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till a 
 proper thickness, which should be a little thicker than melted butter; 
 serve with mutton cutlets, chops, boiled rabbits, or fowl; by not 
 passing it, it will do for roast mutton and boiled rabbit as onion 
 sauce. 
 
 423. Caper Sauce.—Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter . 
 into a stew pan, place it on the fire, and when on the point of boiling, 
 add one ounce of fresh butter and one tablespoonful of capers; shake 
 the stew pan round over the fire until the butter is melted, add a 
 little pepper and salt, and serve where directed. 
 
 424, Cream Sauce.—Put two yolks of eggs in the bottom of a 
 stew pan, with the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, 
 a little white pepper, and a quarter of a pound of hard fresh butter ; 
 place the stew pan over a moderate fire, and commence stirring with 
 a wooden spoon, (taking it from the fire now and then when getting 
 too hot,) until the butter has gradually melted and thickened with 
 the eggs—(great care must be exercised, for if it should become too 
 hot the eggs would curdle, and render the sauce useless;) then add 
 half a pint of melted butter; stir altogether over the fire, without 
 permitting it to boil. This sauce may be served with any description 
 of boiled fish, poultry, meat, or vegetables. 
 
 425. Mustard Sauce.—Put in a stew pan four tablespoonfuls ot 
 chopped onions (No. 449), with half an ounce of butter, put on the 
 fire and stir till it gets rather hot, add half a teaspoonful of flour, 
 mixed well, also half a pint of milk or broth (No. 1); let the 
 whole boil ten minutes, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a 
 
 _ quarter that of pepper, a little sugar, and two teaspoonfuls of 
 _ French or English mustard; when it boils it is ready. 
 
154 ~ A SERIES OF SAUCES. 
 
 4254. Black Butter-—Put two ounces of salt butter in a stew 
 pan, seb it on the fire; when it gets hot and brown add abont 
 twenty parsley leaves, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of that of 
 pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, let the whole boil one 
 minute and pour over any article suitable for this kind of sauce. 
 
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 vvx 4258. Curry SaucePeel and cut two middling sized onions: 
 in slices, one apple cut in dice, and two ounces of bacon; put them | 
 into an iron stew pan, with one ounce of butter or fat, put on the. w 
 fire, stir round for five or six minutes, then add three teaspoonfuls of 
 flour, one of curry powder, mixed well; moisten with a pint of milk, | : 
 half a teaspoonful of salt, and one of sugar; boil till rather thick, 
 _ and serve over any article suitable for its use. 
 
 If passed through a sieve, put it back into the stew pan, let it boil 
 _ one minute, and skim it, will be a very great improvement. as) 
 paste may be used. Broth or water may be used. 
 
 4250. A simpler Manner,—Apples and onions may both be used, 
 as also a pint of melted butter (No. 410). In this no » Soup need be 
 used. 
 
 , '425n. Bread Sauce.-—Put in a stew pan four tablespoonfuls of 
 {7 fread crumbs, a quarter of one of salt, half that of pepper, ten pepper 
 corns, peel a small onion, cut in four, add a pint of milk, half an 
 
 ' ounce of butter; boil for ten minutes, when it ought to turn out a 
 
 ' thickish sauce. 
 
 iy Important Observation.—It will be seen that in the above sauces — 
 there is hardly any but the three first which may not be made ~ 
 with the produce of the cottage garden, or of those articles which 
 are in daily use, and if these directions are followed, many a bow 
 vivant in London would often envy the cooking of the cottage, as it 
 would contain the freshness and aroma of fresh gathered vegetables. 
 
 426. Hotel Keeper's Butter.—This is very simple and good, and 
 will keep potted for a long time. It is exeellent with all broiled 
 meats. 
 
 Put on a plate a quarter of a pound of frosh butter, a quarter of a — 
 spoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, two of chopped parsley, 
 the juice of a middle sized lemon (if no lemon, use vinegar); a little 
 grated nutmeg may be added. ; 
 
 427, Anchovy Butter.—To a quarter of a pound of butter, two | 
 tablespoonfuls of anchovy sauce. 
 
\ >| ah ee ee ee ee 
 
 A SERIES OF sAtaps, = == -185 
 
 ON SALADS. 
 
 _ Waar is more refreshing than salads when your appetite seems to 
 have deserted you, or even after a capacious dinner—the nice, fresh, 
 - green, and crisp salad, full of life and health, which seems to invigo- 
 rate the palate and dispose the masticating powers to a much longer 
 _ duration. The herbaceous plants which exist fit for food for man, 
 are more numerous than may be imagined, and when we reflect how 
 - many of these, for want of knowledge, are allowed to rot and decom- 
 - pose in the fields and gardens, we ought, without loss of time, to make 
 ourselves acquainted with their different natures and forms, and vary 
 our food as the season changes. 
 
 Although nature has provided all these different herbs and plants 
 as food for man at various periods of the year, and perhaps at one 
 period more abundant than another, when there are so many ready 
 to assist in purifying and cleansing the blood, yet it would be 
 advisable to grow some at other seasons, in order that the health 
 may be properly nourished. 
 
 However, at what period of the year or at what time, these may 
 be partaken of, the following dressing is the one I should always 
 - recommend, 
 In my deseription of sslads, I have advised and described the use 
 of them as plainly dressed, such as they are in many parts of Europe, 
 but perhaps many of our readers will want to know how the sauce is 
 made which is often used with the salad herbs, or such as the Italian 
 count used to make some years since, by which he made a fortune in 
 dressing salads for the tables of the aristocracy. It is as follows :—= 
 
 PLAIN COSS SALAD. 
 
 428. Coss Lettuce.—Take two large lettuces, remove the faded 
 leaves and the coarse green ones, then cut the green top off, pull 
 each leaf off separate, cut it lengthways, and then in four or six 
 pieces; proceed thus until finished. This is better without 
 washing. Having cut it all up put it into a bowl; sprinkle over 
 with your finger a small teaspoonful of salt, half one of pepper, 
 three of oil, and two of English vinegar, or one of French; with 
 the spoon and fork turn the salad lightly in the bowl till well 
 mixed ; the less it is handled the better ; a teaspoonful of chopped 
 chervil and one of tarragon i is an immense improvement. _ 
 
 ; ae above seasoning is enough for a quarter of a pound of 
 ettuce. 
 
156 A SERIES OF SALADS. x 
 
 429. Cabbage Lettuce.—Proceed the same as above, pull off 
 the outer leaves and throw them away, take off the others one by 
 one, and cut in two, put them in a pan with cold water, then 
 drain them in a cloth, by shaking it to and fro violently with — 
 one hand, and extract all the water, put them into a bowl, and 
 season and dress as above. 
 
 To vary them, two hard boiled eggs, cut in quarters, may be 
 added; a little eschalot, a few chives, or young onions. : 
 
 To improve the appearance of these salads, when on the table, : 
 before being used, the flower of the nasturtium may be inter-— 
 mixed with { taste and care, with a little cut beetroot and slices of - 
 radish. These are refreshing to the sight on a table or side- - 
 board at dinner; slices of cucumber may be also introduced. 
 
 430. Hndive-—This ought to be nicely blanched and crisp, | 
 and is the most wholesome of all salads. Take two, cut away 
 the root, remove the dark green leaves, and pick off all the rest, — 
 wash and drain well, dress as before ; a few chives is an improve- | 
 ment. 
 
 431. French Fashion.—Put in one clove of garlic, or rub a : 
 piece of crust of bread slightly with it, or the salad-bowl, mix — 
 the salad in the bowl as before; if rubbed slightly on the bread 
 mix it with it. If properly contrived, it gives a flavour, which | 
 no one can detect. Tarragon or chervil may be used in these | 
 salads. | 
 
 432. Marsh Mailow.—The roots of these should be removed, 
 as likewise the faded leaves; dress as for lettuce No. 428; eggs 
 and beetroot may be introduced in this, being almost a winter 
 salad. | 
 Dandelion, or dent-de-lion, should not remain long in water, 
 as they will get too bitter; dress them as endive. 
 Cow salad the same way. 
 Watercresses the same, with a little cucumber and celery. _ 
 
 433. Mustard and Cress.—These, if eaten alone, make an 
 excellent salad ; they should be quickly washed and used, dressed | 
 as lettuce. A little tarragon or chervil, or a few chives, may be : 
 used. : 
 
 434, Salad Sauce.—Boil one egg hard, when cold remove the : 
 yolk, put it into a basin, bruise it to a pulp with a spoon,—do not 
 use iron, prefer wood,—then add a raw yolk and a teaspoonful of 
 
A nn en eV Fi ee eee Oe eg re ames 
 x Ge - OS Gal pe r= — W-hme - 
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 A SERIES OF SALADS, 157 
 
 ie ac. , a small teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, then add half a 
 sp onful of vinegar ; stir it round, pour over a tablespoonful of oil by 
 degrees, keep stirring, then a little more vinegar, two more of oil, 
 until eight teaspoonfuls of oil and three of vinegar are used; season 
 with half a teaspoonful of chopped onions, two of parsley, half of 
 _ tarragon and chervil, a pinch of cayenne and six teaspoonfuls of melted 
 butter cold. The white of the egx may be chopped up and added. 
 Tt will keep for some time if properly corked, and may be used in 
 proportion with any of the above salads; but still 1 must say I prefer 
 _ the simplicity and skill of the Italian count’s in preference to this, 
 _ although this is very palatable. A gill of whipped cream is good init. 
 
 435. Vegetable for Salads.—Beetroot, onions, potatoes, 
 
 celery, cucumbers, lentils, haricots, succory, or barbe-de-capucin, 
 winter cress, burnet, tansey, marigold, peas, French beans, 
 | radish, cauliflower ; all the above may be used judiciously in salad, 
 | if properly seasoned, according to the following directions :— 
 
 +4354. Haricot and Lentil Salad.—To a pint of well-boiled 
 | Pecicots, add a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of pepper, one of 
 chopped onions, two of vinegar, four of oil, two of chopped 
 parsley, stir round, and it is ready; lentils are dono the same. 
 : A little cold meat, cut in thin slices, may be added as a variety. 
 
 436. Beetroot Salad with Onions.—Boil four onions in the 
 skin till tender, also a piece of beetroot; let both get cold; 
 remove the skin, cut them in slices, put them in a plate, one slice 
 on the edge of the other alternately ; put into a small basin half 
 a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, one of good vinegar, 
 three of oil, mix them well; pour over when ready to serve. 
 
 Celery, Young Onions, and Radishes may be used in salad 
 with the-above dressing, adding « teaspoonful of mustard. 
 
 Cucumbers.—Cut in thin slices on a plate, with salt, pepper, 
 oil, and vinegar in proportion to the above directions. 
 
 ~ Green French Beans.—When cold put into a bow], with some 
 tarragon, chervil, and chopped chives, dressed as before. 
 
 Brussels Sprouts, the same way. 
 
 437. Potatoes.—If any remaining, crt them into thin slices, 
 and season as before. A few haricots, or cold meat, or a 
 
 chopped gherkin, may be added. 
 
158 A SERIZS OF SALADS. 
 
 438. Meat and Poultry.—tI there are any of the above } 
 and you require a relishing dish, and not havitig any ff 
 salad herbs, proceed as for the other salads, using a little chopped 
 parsley, onions, or pickles: Some cucumber or celery may be 
 used. The meat or poultry should be cut small. | 
 
 439. Fish Salad—A very nice and elegant dish may be 
 made with all kinds of cold fish, and some kinds of shell-fish; ; 
 but the following way of dressing is for a small Lobster Salad, 
 and will do for all fish salads: Have the bowl half filléd with 
 any kind of salad herb you like, either endive or lettuce, &. — 
 . Then break a lobster in two, open the tail, extract the meat in” 
 one piece, break the claws, cut the meat of both in small slices, 
 about a quarter of an inch thick, arrange these tastefully on 
 the salad, take out all the soft part from the belly, mix it in : 
 cover it with two hard eggs, cut in slices, a few slices of cucum- 
 ber, and, to vary, a few capers. and some fillets of anchovy ; stir 
 lightly, and serve, or use salad sauce, No. 434. 
 
 440. Crab Salad.—The same as the lobster. ! 
 
 Remains of cold cod, fried soles, halibut, brill, turbot, stur- 
 geon cut as lobster, plaice, &c., may be used in the same way. 
 
 bason with a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, four of vinegar, 
 
 four of oil; stir it well together, and pour on the salad; then 
 If for a dinner, ornament it with some flowers of the nas- 4 
 
 turtium and marigold. 4 
 
 Ma cuir: Exorsz,—In the foregoing receipts you will perceive © 
 that I have used each salad herb separate, only mixing them with © 
 the condiments or with vegetable fruit. Ihave a strong objection 
 to the almost diabolical mixture of four or five different sorts of 
 salad in one bowl, and then chopping them as fine as possible; the — 
 freshmess as well as the flavour of each is destroyed; they agree © 
 about as well together as would brandy and soda water mixed with ~ 
 gin and gingerbeer, for each salad herb has its own particular flavour, — 
 and the condiments, which are onions, chives, parsley, chervil, tarra- — 
 gon, celery, eschaiot, garlic, cucumber, beetroot, &c. &c. are only to 
 give it piquancy like the oil and vinegar, salt, and pepper. % 
 
 Mustard and cress and water cresses may be considered as a slight — 
 condiment, but should be used accordingly. It is remarkable that 
 though the inhabitants of this country were for so many centuries Ai: 
 (from the nature of the climate) a salad-eating people, yet they seem 
 the least to know how to season them. Until the introduction of ¥ 
 
 wi 
 bee)! 
 
RELISHES, 159 
 
 the potato, in 1650, and which was first eaten as a sweetieat, stewed 
 
 ‘in sack wine and sugar, the various salads were in common use on 
 the tables in Britain, of which country most of the plants are 
 indigenous. 
 
 RELISHES. 
 
 441. Herring in Whisky.—Well wash and clean a red 
 herring, wipe it dry and place it in a pie-dish, having cut off 
 the head, ard split it in two up the back; put a gill or two of 
 
 whisky over the herring, according to size, hold it on one side 
 of the dish, so that it is covered “with the spirit, set it alight, 
 and when it goes out the fish is done. 
 
 442. Devilled Bones—Take the bones of any remaining 
 joint or poultry, which has still some meat on, which cut across 
 élightly, and then make a mixture of mustard, salt, cayenne, and 
 
 pepper, and one teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup to two of 
 - mustard ; rub the bones well with this, and broil rather brownish. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, OR THE PEARL OF THE FIELDS. 
 
 I HERE send you, Eloise, a most sumptuous relish. There is one 
 
 dish which the Devonshire cottager can procure and enjoy better 
 than even the most wealthy person. It is the mushroom. After 
 having plucked them, perbaps on the road home for his breakfast, 
 _ broiled them over a nice bright fire, seasoned with a little pepper and 
 salt, and a small bit of butter placed inside cf them; the flavour is 
 _ then pure and the aroma beautiful, but by accident I discovered a new 
 and excellent way to cook them. Being in Devonshire, at the end of 
 September, and walking across the fields before breakfast to a small 
 | farmhouse, I found three very fine mushrooms, which I thought 
 | would be a treat, but on arriving at the house I found it had no 
 oven, a bad gridiron, and a smoky coal fire. Necessity, they say, 
 | is the mother of Invention, I immediately applied to our grand and 
 universal mamma, how I should dress my precious mushrooms, when 
 a gentle whisper came to my ear, and the following was the result. 
 i 443. I first cut two good slices of bread, half an inch thick, large 
 enough to cover the bottom of a plate, toasted them, and spread 
 -some Devonshire cream over the toast. JI removed all the earthy 
 part from the mushroom, and laid them gently on the toast, head 
 _ downwards, slightly sprinkled them with salt and pepper, and placed 
 _in each a little of the clotted cream; I then put a tumbler over each 
 and placed them on a stand before the fire, and kept turning them so 
 “as to prevent the glass breaking, and in ten to fifteen minutes the glass 
 
Ad 
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 a 
 A 
 & 
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 160 RELISHES. 
 
 was filled with vapour, which is the essence of the mushroom ; when it — 
 is taken up, do not remove the glass for a few minutes, by which ; 
 ‘time the vapour will have become condensed and gone into the bread, — 
 but when it is, the aroma is so powerful as to pervade the whole — 
 apartment. : 
 
 The sight, when the glass is removed, is most inviting, its whiteness 
 rivals the everlasting snows of Mont Blanc, and the taste is worthy of , 
 Lucullus. Vitellius would never have dined without it; Apicius would 
 never have gone to Greece to seek for crawfish; and had he only — 
 half the fortune left when he committed suicide, he would have pre- — 
 ferred to have left proud Rome and retire to some villa or cottage to — 
 enjoy such an enticing dish. | 
 
 Therefore, modern gourmets, never fancy that you have tasted — 
 mushrooms until you have tried this simple and new discovery. 
 Remember the month—the end of September or the beginning of — 
 October. 
 
 As Devonshire cream is not to be obtained everywhere, use butter, — 
 or boil some milk till reduced to cream, with a little salt, pepper, 
 and one clove; when warm put in an ounce of butter, mixed with a — 
 little flour, stir round, put the mushroom on the toast with this sauce, — 
 cover with a basin, and place in the oven for half an hour. In this” | 
 way all kinds of mushrooms will be excellent. They may be put into | 
 
 baking pans: cover with a tumbler as above, and bake in oven. 
 
 444, Welsh Rabbit.—Toast a round of bread from a quartern — 
 loaf; put about four ounces of cheese into a small saucepan or 
 pipkin with a teaspoonful of mustard, a little pepper and salt, — 
 and a wineglass of ale; break the cheese small, set it on the fire, 
 and stir until it is melted, when pour over the toast, and serve — 
 quickly. 
 
 2nd.—Toast a round of bread, and place on it two pieces of © 
 cheese, single Gloucester, a quarter of an inch thick; place it 
 before the fire, and as the cheese melts, spread it over the bread ~ 
 with a knife, also a little cayenne and mustard. 
 
 3rd.—Take a penny French roll, cut off a thin slice from one ; 
 end, and take out some of the crumb and place it in the oven. Melt 
 the cheese as above, and pour it into the roll. It is very 
 good for ajourney, or a sportsman, and can be eaten cold. 4 
 
 Ath, or Irish Rabbit.—Toast a round of bread ; chop up four 
 ounces of cheese, a small piece of butter, one shenkins some 
 mustard, pepper, and salt, until it is quite a paste; spread i 
 
CULINARY MISCELLANEOUS. 161 
 
 over the toast, and place them in the oven for five minutes, and 
 €. serve hot. 
 
 445 ReMi, may be eaten ete Put a a iat of them 
 
 _ in a pan, after being well washed, with some onions cut in 
 ‘slices, also a little aayee put them on a sharp fire for ten 
 
 h “minutes, when they will all open; then remove the beard 
 
 E 
 
 and black part, and eat them plain with some of their juice. 
 
 446. Oysters on Toast.—Open twelve very large oysters, put 
 them in a pan with their liquor, a quarter of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, a wineglass of milk, two cloves, and a small piece of 
 mace, if handy; boil a few minutes until set, mix one ounce of 
 
 butter with half an ounce of flour, put it, in small pieces, in 
 
 the pan, stir round; when near boiling pour over the toast, and 
 serve. A little sugar and the juice of a lemon, is a great 
 improvement. 
 
 447. Oysters, plain scalloped.—Butter and bread cat the 
 scallop shell, put in six oysters, season, and bread crumb, then 
 six more, season again, and bread crumb; if a large shell, six more, 
 with alittle cayenne and butter, and some of their liquor; cover 
 thick with bread crumbs, put in oven, or on gridiron, for thirty 
 minutes; brown with salamander, or on a shovel, and serve. 
 
 These may also be done in patty pans. 
 
 Pieces of the liver of the cod, put into boiling water and set, 
 
 may be added to any of the above escalops. 
 
 | 443. Scallops.— Lobsters, crabs, and crayfish must be first 
 
 boiled, the flesh removed from the shell, and minced, adding a 
 | little chopped onion, pepper, salt, and butter, the scallop shell 
 well greased, the flesh of the fish laid in, well bread crumbed, and 
 put in the oven or on the gridiron for thirty minutes, and serve. 
 
 These require a little more pepper or cayenne than other fish, 
 
 and a little Chili vinegar may be added. Two spoonfuls of 
 melted butter mixed with the flesh of a lobster makes it very 
 _ delicious. 
 
 449. How to chop Onions.—-Few persons know how to chop 
 
 - onions properly. In the first place, all the dry skin must be 
 | removed, then a thin slice off the top and bottom, or they will 
 _ be bitter, then cut them into thin slices, dividing the onion, and 
 
 M 
 
; ” 1, eer Brice aN ery DEA 4 ret a Ae ate it 
 162 CULINARY MISCELLANEOUS. = 
 
 cut crossways to form dice. If a very slight flavour is required, 
 and the onion is strong, like in the north of England, for it 
 must be remembered that the further north you go, the — 
 stronger the flavour of the root, and if French receipt books — 
 are exactly copied, it is no wonder that complaints are made of — 
 the preponderance of the flavour of the onion; in which case, — 
 when chopped, put them in the corner of a napkin or cloth, 
 
 wash them in water, squeeze them dry, then put them back on 
 
 the board, and chop finer; or sometimes only rubbing the pan 
 or the meat with the onion is quite sufficient. 
 
 450. Larding.—The word larding has very often occurred ix 
 our receipts; it may be thought to belong to a style of cookery 
 too good for the cottage. On the contrary, it is an economica. 
 process, and will make lean meat go much farther than with- 
 out it. 
 Get what is called a larding needle, that is, a piece of steel ~ 
 from six to nine inches long, pointed at one end, and having 
 four slits at the other, which will hold a small strip of bacon 
 when put between them. They will perhaps cost tenpence. — 
 Cut the pieces of bacon two or three inches long and a quarter ~ 
 to half an inch square, put each one after the other in the pin, 
 insert it in the meat, and leave only half an inch out; eight 
 pieces to each pound. 
 
 451. Bunch of Sweet Herbs——In many of the receipts is 
 mentioned a bunch of sweet herbs, which consists, for some 
 stews and soups, of a small bunch of parsley, two sprigs of — 
 
 thyme, and one bayleaf; if no parsley, four sprigs of winter. ~ 
 
 savory, six of thyme, and one bayleaf. 
 
 452. Bread Crumbs,—Take a piece of the crumb of stale | 
 bread not too hard, bruise it with your hand, then pass it 7 
 through a coarse sieve or cullender, or in cloth; use where 
 required. 
 
 453. Browning for Sauces-—Put half a pound of brown 
 sugar into an iron saucepan, and melt it over a moderate fire — 
 for about twenty-five minutes, stirring it continually, until quite 
 black, but it must become so by degrees, or too sudden a heat 
 will make it bitter, then add two quarts of water, and in ten — 
 minutes the sugar will be dissolyed. Bottle for use, 
 
CULINARY MISCELLANKOUS. 163 
 
 Coloured Water—Put in a basin a pint of water and two 
 
  teaspoonfuls of the above sugar browning; mix well; use where 
 
 indicated, either for stews, gravies, or sauces. 
 
 454. Pease Pudding.—Put a pint of split peas into a cloth, 
 leave room for their swelling, boil in a gallon of soft water; if 
 good, they will take an hour, but leave them till tender; pass — 
 
 ' them through a sieve or cullender, then add a teaspoonful of 
 
 salt, half of pepper, two ounces of butter, and two eggs, which, 
 if scarce, can be omitted; beat up, tie again in cloth, boil for 
 one hour, and serve with boiled pork. Or when plain boiled, 
 and the peas are done, open the cloth, season, mix well, butter 
 a basin, shape in, and serve. 
 
 455. How to Boil Rice.—Put one quart of water in a pot, 
 boil it, wash half a pound of rice, and throw it into the boiling 
 water; boil for ten minutes, or until each grain is rather soft, 
 but separate; drain it in a colander, put it back in a pot which 
 you have slightly greased with butter, let it swell slowly near 
 the fire, or in the oven, until wanted. A little butter may be 
 added; each grain will then swell up, and be well separated. 
 
 456. Veal Stuffing.—Chop half a pound of suet, put it in a 
 basin with three quarters of a pound of bread crumbs, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, a little thyme, or lemon 
 peel chopped, three whole eggs, mix well, and use where 
 directed. A pound of bread crumbs and one more egg may be 
 used: it will make it cut firmer. 
 
 457. Liver Stuffing—To the above quantity of stuffing, 
 chop fine four ounces of the liver of either calf, pig, sheep, or 
 lamb, poultry, or game; mix well and use, adding a little more 
 seasoning. 
 
 These stuffings are varied by the mixture of a little cooked 
 ham, anchovies, olives, capers, pickles, or even red herring. In 
 fact, a variety of ways, according to fancy, for. any dish you 
 please. 
 
 458. Biscwit Balls.—Put in a basin half a pound of suet, 
 three teaspoonfuls of onions chopped fine, one of parsley, half 
 of salt, quarter of pepper, ten tablespoontuls of biscuit powder, 
 
 _ two passover biscuits soaked in milk or water a few hours before 
 M 2 | 
 
164 CULINARY MISCELLANEOUS, 
 
 using; two eges to be added. These are excellent in any thick 
 soups or ragouts, and stews of all sorts: make them in balls the 
 size of a walnut, stew with meat, or boil gently twenty minutes, 
 and use where liked. 
 
 459. Cod Liver Stuffing—Half a pound of raw chopped 
 liver, three quarters of a pound of bread crumb or biscuit powder, 
 salt, pepper, and parsley; mix with two whole eggs. Use as 
 stuffing for any kind of fish. 
 
 460. Cod Liver Balls.—One pound of liver chopped fine, 
 put into a basin with a pound of fine bread crumbs, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of chopped onions, two of parsley, two of salt, hali one 
 of pepper, a pinch of ground ginger, three eggs; mix all well, 
 make into balls, roll them in flour, use them with any kind of 
 stewed fish; they will take about thirty minutes to cook slowly. 
 
 461. Toad-in-the-Hole Batter——Put into a pan six table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, four eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, half of 
 pepper; mix well with a pint of milk; mix very smooth, and 
 use where directed. More milk may i used if liked. 
 
 A little nutmeg may be used in if. This is as good as pan- 
 cake batter. 
 
 462. A Common Batter.—Put in a basin six good table- 
 
 spoonfuls of flour, which dilute very slowly with one pint of ~ 
 
 milk, add one spoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper, beat an 
 eco well in it, if used for a toad-in-the-hole. A little parsley, 
 chopped onions, or a little spice, makes an agreeable change; it 
 will also make nice puddings, if baked alone, or under a joint in 
 a well-greased tin. 
 
 A Commoner Sort.—¥or toad-in-the-hole use water, if you 
 have no milk or eggs handy; a little suet, or fat chopped fine, is 
 an improvement. 
 
 463. How to Boil and Dress Macaroni.—Put in an iron 
 pot or stew-pan two quarts of water; let it boil; add two tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt, one ounce of butter; then add one pound of 
 macaroni, boil till tender, let it be rather firm to the touch; it 
 is then ready for use, either for soup, pudding, or to be dressed 
 with cheese, Drain it in a cuilender; put it back in the pan, 
 
ae aes re ie oe he re ee et, we NN ER ee Ae foe 
 Tiusti el lle ae t it <i *%2 : ; : ~s 
 
 CULINARY MISCELLANEOUS. 3 165 
 
 add four ounces of cheese or more, a little butter, salt, and 
 pepper; toss it well together and serve. It will be found light 
 and nutritious, and well worthy the notice of vegetarians. 
 
 . 464, How to Toast Bread.—Procure a nice square loaf that 
 has been baked one or two days previously, then with a sharp 
 knife cut off the bottom crust evenly, and then as many slices as 
 you require, about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Contrive 
 to have a clear fire: place a slice of the bread upon a toasting- 
 fork, about an inch from one of the sides, hold it a minute 
 before the fire, then turn it, hold it another minute, by which 
 time the bread will be thoroughly hot, then begin to move 
 it gradually to and fro until the whole surface has assumed a 
 yellowish-brown colour, then turn it again, toasting the other 
 side in the same manner; lay it then upon a hot plate, have 
 some fresh or salt butter, (which must not be too hard, as press- 
 ing it upon the toast would make it heavy,) spread a piece, 
 rather less than an ounce, over, and cut the toast into four or 
 six pieces; should you require six such slices for a numerous 
 family, about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for the 
 whole. You will then have toast made to perfection. 
 
 4644. Jam of all kinds.—Almost all small farmers and cot- 
  tagers have generally some kind of fruit to spare at the end of 
 _ the season, any of which can be made into jam. Thus, for 
 strawberry jam, pick one pound of strawberries, put them in a 
 pan with three quarters of a pound of white powdered sugar; 
 put the whole on the fire, stir with a wooden spoon, and boil till 
 rather thick ; or try a little on a plate, if it sets. When cold, 
 fill your preserve jars, cover over with strong white paper, and 
 let them remain in a rather cold place. 
 
 Raspberries and green gooseberries will require a little more 
 boiling, and more sugar. Cranberries, mulberries, cherries, and 
 currants, can all be done the same way. 
 
 4643. Currant Jelly.—Put in a pan half a sieve of fresh 
 gathered currants, with the stalks; add to it a gill of water, put 
 on the fire, and boil till every currant has opened; then pass the 
 juice through a sieve or cullender, and to every quart put one 
 pound of white sugar; boil fast and skim, and when the preserve 
 begins to stick to the spoon, and is quite clear, fill your preserve 
 pots, and cover over when cold; but, to be sure, try some ona 
 
166 _ HINTS ON TEA, COFFEE, ETC. 
 
 plate Seni potting. If it sets well it is done; a few raspberries i 4 
 
 added is an improvement. 
 
 PICKLES. 
 
 465. Teed Cabbage.—I perceive in most cottages the garden - 
 possesses a few of these exceedingly useful productions; at some 
 
 seasons they grow larger than others, when they should be 
 
 pickled thus :—Cut them into thin slices, remove the hard stalk, 
 lay them on a slab, cover with salt for twelve hours, turning 
 them now and then, clean off all the salt, and place them in e 
 stone jars; boil some vinegar, and to every quart add one ounce 
 
 of black pepper, and seven button onions, or two large ones 
 
 sliced, boil for five minutes, and pour over cabbage; cover the a 
 
 jar, and let it remain three weeks before using. 
 
 Onions may be omitted, and only cold vinegar used, but I do 
 not approve of it, being hard and indigestible. A bunch of 
 sweet herbs boiled in the vinegar is an improvement. 
 
 I send you no other receipts, as mixed pickles can now he 
 bought cheaper than they can be made at home. 
 
 A FEW ORIGINAL HINTS ON COFFEE, TEA, &c. 
 
 AG6. Simplified Mode of Making Coffee.—Put one ounce of 
 ground coffee in a pan, which place over the fire; keep stirring 
 it until quite hot, but take care it does not burn; then pour over 
 quickly a quart of boiling water, close it immediately, keep it not far 
 from the fire, but not to simmer; then fill your cup without shaking 
 it; or pass it through a cloth into a coffee pot, or it may be made 
 some time previous, and warmed again. ‘The grounds can be kept, 
 and boiled for making the coffee of the next day, by which at least 
 a quarter of an ounce is saved. In country places, where milk is 
 
 good and cheap, I recommend that half boiled milk shonld be used 
 
 with the coffee. The idea of warming ia is my own, and the 
 economy is full ten per cent. 
 
 The following is the result of some of my experiments with this 
 system.. But I must first tell you that my exertions in the fashion- 
 able quarter of St. Giles’s gave great satisfaction to my septuagenarian 
 pupil, whom I taught to cook the ox cheek, and she and several of her 
 neighbours clubbed together to give a fashionable “tea,” which of 
 course my vanity made me immediately accept. Having but little 
 confidence in what they would provide, 1 bought a quarter of & 
 pound of ground coffee, intending giving them a lesson how to make 
 coffee. On my arrival, I was received like a princess in a fairy land: 
 
 fy 
 
ee ere TET Erm tare eT ee me Ct thn alta ty aM ole Ry I 
 + 2 ig =) 9 ‘ t % 4 of 4 ri 2 ’ f . 
 
 HINTS ON THA, COFFEE, ETC. 167 
 
 the little parlour was not only clean, but ornamented, at the cost of 
 a few pence, with wall flowers from the neighbouring garden (the 
 best in the world, Covent Garden), generously dispensing their per- 
 fume over pyramids of muffins and crumpets. Having cordially 
 shaken hands with my host, I set cheerfully to work, and got , 
 hold of an old pitcher, but clean; in it I put the coffee, and 
 placed it close before the fire, begging the old lady to keep 
 turning it round, and stirring it till the powder was hot. I then 
 poured three quarts of boiling water, allowed it to stand for ten 
 minutes, and then poured it out into the cups, with the best milk that 
 could be got, and sugar. The coffee being partaken of, I put into 
 each cup a good teaspoonful of canister cocoa, with half a teaspoonful 
 ‘or sugar, holding the kettle in one hand and aspoon inthe other. I 
 poured on the water, and kept stirring all the time, adding a little 
 miik. In the meantime I had put one ounce of tea into a large 
 teapot, which I had placed by the side of the fire, in order that 
 the leaves should get hot, so that when the water was poured on 
 them, that they should immediately give forth their aroma. By 
 the time the cocoa had been partaken of, the tea was ready, and 
 it was declared by all the old dames present that they never had had 
 such a cup of tea, although they bought it at the same shop, 
 and paid the same price; and they could not account for such 
 “legerdemain,” but would endeavour to imitate it. I was greatly 
 thanked on my departure, and received the compliment of an old 
 Shoe being thrown after me; not a French dancing shoe, but a 
 genuine British bit of solid work, the sole having a, very uneven 
 appearance, being studded with several dozen of iron nails. 
 
 Thus terminated the entertainment given to me by these poor but 
 grateful people of the black back street of St. Giles’s. 
 
 I made the cocoa thus, not having sufficient utensils; but I have 
 found it an economical plan to make the ground cocoa hot, adding a 
 little water, and mixing it smooth with either cold milk or water, it 
 gives it a richness which is not got by the usualsystem. Place it on 
 the fire, keep stirring, and when just on the point of boiling, serve, 
 Chocolate can be made the same way, only stirring it more, with a 
 spoon, ii you have no chocolate pot. 
 
 In the way of coffee, in my opinion, nothing can be more pure 
 than what I bought the other day from the canister, when walking 
 by chance in the Borough, at the shop of Messrs. White and Fairs 
 child; and I must, while on this subject, be allowed to state that, in 
 my opinion, a good cup of coffee cannot be made without the intro- 
 duction of a little chicory, although I am aware that some dealers 
 imposed on the public by selling an article composed of chicory at 
 a coffee price. I cannot but admire Messrs. White’s plan, which is 
 on no account to sell any ground cofize mixed with chicory, but to sell 
 it to their customers the one separate from the other, They then 
 
168 BEVERAGES, 
 
 recommended to me some canister coffee, patented and prepared only — 
 by them. On opening the canister the aroma was very refreshing. 
 On asking how it was roasted (rather a bold question on my part, 
 I admit), he very civilly asked me to follow him to the back of the 
 premises, where some very extensive rooms are fitted up for the purpose 
 of roasting; he then put some coffee-berries into a cylinder six feeb 
 in length and twenty inches in circumference; then put them in a 
 furnace which roasted the berries in a most scientific manner, being 
 turned during the while by the aid of steam power. When suffi. 
 
 ciently roasted, the coffee was, while hot, put in a steam milland 4 
 
 ground, being forced from the mill into the canisters and sealed 
 up as soon as possible, and put into stock. I beg to forward you one of 
 the four quarter of a pound packets I bought. On testing itl 
 found that an ounce made one quart of excellent coffee. 
 
 BEVERAGES. 
 
 As far as the food of man goes, I believe, dearest, that our duty is 
 almost at an end; but here is one important item which supports 
 the vitality of man as much as food does, I mean beverages; in fact, 
 one is inseparable from the other: to drink without eating, or to eat 
 without drinking, would soon send us to an early grave. ‘True, if too 
 much is taken of one or the other, it upsets the digestive organs, and 
 materially affects the functions of that most important part of the 
 human frame, the stomach, which, acting in accordance with the 
 wonderful works of nature, refuses any food or drink that does not 
 accord with its functions. True, bad food and beverages of all kinds 
 are sometimes forced on it ; but then, if it does not disturb its functions 
 immediately, it acts on it gradually, and in course of time entirely 
 destroys its coating or toilette. Is it not, then, important, that great 
 care should be taken in what we eat or drink P The best of food is often 
 spoilt by drinking bad beverages. Amongst the higher orders of 
 society, the pride of an “ epicure” is to select the best of wines, which 
 he considers one of his greatest treasures, scientifically classing them 
 to the various courses of his dinner. 
 
 You. probably will again remark, that I am devisting from the 
 purport of our present little work, by alluding to the higher class of 
 living in its pages, while in reality it is intended for the million, and 
 not for the wealthy few. My excuse is, that if a rich gourmet take 
 so much care in selecting his beverages, why should not a poor house- 
 wife be as particular in choosing her more humble drinks? Is it not 
 more desirable for the artizan, who cannot afford to drink much beer, 
 to have with his meal a sound clear glass of pure water, full of health 
 and life, than to have a muddy one? For I have actually seen people ~ 
 drink the drainings as they drip from the roof of a house—the simple 
 
— 
 
 BEVERAGES. - 169. 
 
 idea of letting it rest for a minute never entering their heads ; or better 
 still, to clarify it by passing it through a clean cloth, or giving it a boil, 
 and letting it get cold before drinking, for any doubtful water will 
 improve and get soft by boiling. 
 
 ‘For those in middling circumstances, who can afford their malt 
 liquor at their meals, pale ale, or light table-beer, or ale, is preferable 
 to any heavy stout, as they facilitate digestion. 
 
 Since my return from France, there is nothing I miss so much as 
 that light and cooling drink called by our allies “ Vin ordinaire,” 
 though I was in hopes that after the great exertions made by several 
 members of parliament, a reduction of the duty on these simple but 
 generous wines would take place, though probably they would not 
 be partaken of to any great extent by the masses, who would not 
 understand their properties, although there is not one Englishman out 
 of twenty who visits France, but who in time takes a liking to these 
 really harmless wines. 
 
 I do not want to deprive you of your sherry or port before or after 
 dinner ; however, recollect that nothing assists digestion and refreshes 
 the palate more than a good glass of light wine; and therefore it 
 would be a great boon to the public if they could be imported free of 
 duty. 
 
 To our friend Dr. King I am much indebted, after having had a 
 conversation on the above subject, for his sending to me the other 
 day a case of pure French wine, having, as he stated in his letter, 
 been present while it was drawn from the rough French cask. 
 I was more astonished when he informed me that its price was only 
 twenty-eight shillings per dozen, and was purchased from the famous 
 house of Campbell, of Regent Street, London. It appears that this 
 gentleman pays an annual visit to the different vintages and villages 
 which encompass the banks of the Garonne, and purchases largely 
 from the peasantry, remaining there all the brewing season, and per- 
 sonally superintending its make. The principal wines are called 
 «La Rose,” “St. Julien,” “ Vin de Grave,” “ Sauterne,” “ Barsac,” 
 and numerous other kinds, all of which are highly recommended 
 by the faculty. Light Amontillado, Rhenish wine, and Bucellas, are 
 also commendable at meal-times. 
 
 For those who cannot afford to buy malt liquors or wines, I have 
 been led to try the following receipts, which will be found extremely 
 useful for people in small circumstances, 
 
170 | CHEAP DRINKS. 
 
 A SERIES OF NEW AND CHEAP DRINKS, ! 
 
 467. Put a gallon of water on to boil, cut up one pound of apples, ! 
 each one into quarters, put them in the water, and boil them until | 
 
 they can be pulped, pass the liquor through a cullender, boil it up 
 again with half a pound of brown sugar, scum, and bottle for use, 
 taking care not to cork the bottle, and keep it in a cool place: the 
 apples may be eaten with sugar. 
 
 Another way.—Bake the apples first, then put them in a gallon pan, 
 add the sugar, and pour boiling water over, let it get cold, pass the 
 liquor as above, and bottle. 
 
 468. Apple Toast and Water.—A piece of bread, slowly toasted 
 till it gets quite black, and added to the above, makes avery nice and 
 refreshing drink for invalids, 
 
 469. Apple Barley Water.—A quarter of a pound of pearl barley 
 instead of toast added to the above, and boil for one hour, is also a 
 very nice drink. 
 
 470. Apple Rice Water.——Halfa pound of rice, boiled in the above 
 until in pulp, passed through a cullender, and drunk when cold, 
 
 All kinds of fruits may be done the same way. 
 
 Figs and French plums are excellent ; also raisins. 
 
 A little ginger, if approved of, may be used. 
 
 471. For Spring Drink.—Rhubarb, in the same quantities, and 
 done in the same way as apples, adding more sugar, is very cooling. ° 
 
 Also green gooseberries. 
 
 4714. Lemonade.—Cut in very thin slices three lemons, put them 
 in a basin, add half a pound of sugar, either white or brown; bruise 
 altogether, add a gallon of water, and stir well. It is then ready. 
 
 472. For Summer Drink.—One pound of red currants, bruised with 
 some raspberry, half a pound of sugar added to a gallon of cold 
 water, well stirred, allowed to settle, and bottled. 
 
 473. Mulberry.—The same, adding a little lemon-peel. 
 
 A little cream of tartar or citric acid added to these renders them 
 more cooling in summer and spring. 
 
 ON MARKETING. 
 
 My prar FRrenp,—In most cookery books, which are supposed to 
 be written for the middle classes of socie’y, we find at the beginning, 
 and in large type, directions how to market and choose the best joints 
 of meat, poultry, fish, but rarely vegetables, how all the best 
 qualities of each should be known, but nothing is said about the 
 second and third qualities, which two-thirds of the people of England 
 
 consume; also directions for judging of the finest haunch of mutton, or 
 
ON MARKETING. © 171 
 
 sizloin of beef, but never of the neck or scrag of mutton, or the skirt 
 of beef, or sheep’s head, liver, &c. 
 
 _ If the directions of those works were strictly followed, one-third of 
 the people would be starving, and a population of dogs (as in Turkey) 
 would have to be kept to eat up the supposed offal. At the present 
 moment our soldiers, as well as those of our allies, the French, are 
 feeding excellently off that which is thrown away by the Turks, the 
 head, feet, &c. &c., of the animal, which is by them declared unclean. 
 Such ought never to be the case in a Christian country, for we may be 
 quite certain that, unless the animal is diseased, all those parts which 
 can be digested is good food for man; but, there may be some who, 
 from over-indulgence in luxuries, have so brought the stomach into 
 that state, that there are but certain parts of the animal of which 
 they can partake; these persons must, of course, pay higher prices 
 for that kind of meat, and leave the other parts cheaper for those 
 having healthy and good digestions to feed on. It is, therefore, our 
 duty here to teach the labourer’s and cottager’s wife how to buy it 
 cheap, sweet, wholesome, and nutritious, 
 
 Mutton.—The first quality of mutton ought to be between four 
 or five years old; but at present it is rarely got above three, and often 
 under two years. The flesh ought to be a darkish, clear, red colour,’ 
 the fat firm and white, the meat short and tender when pinched, 
 and ought not to be too fat. 
 
 Second quality —The fat is rather spongy, the lean close and 
 rough grained, and a deep red, and the fat adheres firmly to the meat. 
 
 Third quality.—This is, perhaps, a sheep which has had some disease 
 and recovered; the liver would always show this, but as butchers 
 generally remove it, and do not let it be seen, you cannot judge from it. 
 The flesh will be paler, the fat a faint white, and the flesh loose from 
 the bone ; if very bad and diseased the fat will be yellow, and the lean 
 flabby and moist. ‘To ascertain if it is fresh proceed as for pork. 
 
 Lamb should be four or five months old, and ought to weigh from 
 thirty to forty pounds; the fat ought to be white and light in appear- 
 ance, the flesh a faintish white, smooth, and firm to the touch. 
 
 The second quality is not so well covered with fat, the flesh rather 
 red, the meat softer, and every joint presents a coarser appearance. 
 
 The third quality is flabby, lean, and red, the fat rather yellow, 
 and will keep sweet but a short time. 
 
 To ascertain if fresh, place the finger between the loin and kidney, 
 and, if moist, or tainted, will be easily ascertained by the smell. 
 
 Beef.—Most towns and counties in the United Kingdom differ in 
 the kind of cattle brought to market. It is not our duty here to 
 mention the breed which we think the best, and on which so many 
 
 |  diffezent opinions exist; but the quality of meat depends upon the 
 
172 ON MARKETING. 
 
 ‘feeding. The best quality of beef will have an open grain, bright z 
 
 red colour, the fat white, and the bark smooth. Some of the best 
 qualities will have the fat yellow, from being fed on oil-cake ; and, 
 unless it has afterwards been fed on turnips, will be wasteful in 
 cooking, although the meat may be tender and rich. 
 
 The second quality will be close-grained and rather flabby, paler i in 
 colour, and the fat a dead white and the bark rough, 
 
 The third quality, the grain is very close, no streaks of fat between 
 
 the grain, and of deep brickdust red, tough under the finger, the 
 fat hard and skinny. To ascertain the age, look at the bone or horn 
 which runs through the ribs of beef; if a fine four-year old heifer, 
 this horn or bone will be soft or tender, and becomes harder the older 
 the ox. But the best plan to judge of the flavour of the meat before 
 you do it by eating it, is to look at the tongue of the bullock, and if 
 it is plump and has a clean bright appearance, with the fat at the end 
 
 of a pinkish white, then the meat will turn out good; butif the tongue . 
 
 should look dark, the fat a dead white, then that meat will eat hard 
 and flavourless. ‘The same holds good with sheep. 
 
 Veal.—There is more difficulty in the choice of veal than any other 
 meat, although the general opinion is, it is the easiest. I often hear 
 how white it is, how plump it looks: these are often produced 
 artificially. 
 
 The preference is usually given to the cow calf, from its being 
 whiter and having the udder; but if a bull calf has been properly fed, 
 and killed at about ten weeks old, nothing can be finer in flavour or 
 closer in grain when cooked, and will be much more juicy than the 
 cow calf, The grain should be close, firm, and white, the fat a 
 pinkish white, not a dead white, and the kidneys well covered with 
 thick white fat; that is the first class veal. ‘The second quality is 
 darker in flesh, may be slaughtered in the country, and equally as 
 nourishing as the first; the third quality will have less fat round the 
 kidney, be coarser grained, and the lean red. It is often more 
 nourishing than the very white veal, but not so delicate or digestible. 
 It is caused by the calf being reared in the open air. 
 
 If the suet under the kidney is soft and clammy the meat is not 
 fresh. 
 
 The neck is the first joint that becomes tainted. Calves’ liver 
 should be firm, and free from gristle or spots; the heart should be 
 surrounded with fat. 
 
 When veal has to be kept, it should always be hung up, and never 
 allowed to lay on anything, or it soon becomes tainted. 
 
 Pork.—The quality of this entirely depends on the feeding. A friend 
 of mine made various experiments, and more particularly on the same 
 litter of pigs, and the various sizes and different flavour of the meat 
 
 Toe 
 
 cs Te ee 
 
ON MARKETING. 173 
 
 was extraordinary. There is one thing very certain, that whatever. 
 a pig is fed upon, it will be much better in size and quality if kept 
 clean and well washed at least once a week. Those breeds that 
 produce a fine close-grained meat, not too much fat, and that firm, 
 solid, and pinkish white, are the best; if the tongue is clean and full, 
 the animal is well fed and healthy. 
 
 ~ The second quality of pork may be very good, but the flesh will 
 be hard and red, and the fat a yellow white. 
 
 The third quality, the meat will be coarse-grained, the fat soft, 
 and the tongue and kidneys discoloured. Measly pork may be known 
 by the little kernels in the fat: it is not allowed to be sold by the 
 butchers, and yet, in many large towns in England, it is openly 
 exposed for sale. 
 
 If the flesh is clammy and moist, it is not fresh. The best plan to 
 tell the freshness of this, or any meat, is to take with you, in hot 
 weather, to market two wooden skewers, and insert them in the flesh 
 near the bone, and remove them, and the nose will detect it imme- 
 diately; this is much better than touching the meat. These skewers 
 should be scraped after being used. 
 
 Sucking Pigs.—The skin should be clear and fresh, the tongue 
 clean, the flesh of a pinkish hue, and not too large in size. 
 
 Poultry.—The means of telling the various qualities of poultry are 
 well known: the age is known by the spur, and the quality by the skin. 
 There is, perhaps, no poultry in the world that comes up to the well- 
 fed Dorking capon. The new breed of Cochin China fowls, of which 
 the best tor eating is the grey kind, if fed and treated in the same 
 way as the Dorking capons, might produce a larger ag, but it is 
 questionable if so tender. 
 
 White legged fowls are generally preferred, but where are black 
 . ones equally as good. In country places, where chickens are some- 
 times required to be killed in the morning for that day’s dinner, it — 
 is best to give each, shortly before killing it, a teaspoonful of vinegar, 
 which will cause them to eat tender. This can be done with all 
 kinds of poultry. 
 
 Geese the same. 
 
 Ducks should have the feet supple, the breast full and hard, and 
 a clear skin. 
 
 Turkeys should have fine, full, and firm legs, skin white, breast 
 full, neck long. 
 
 Game may be detected by removing the feathers off the under 
 part of the Jeg, and if the skin is not discoloured, they are fresh. 
 The age may be known by placing the thumb into the beak, and 
 holding the bird up with the. jaw part of the beak: if it breaks, it 
 is young; if not, it is old, and requires keeping longer before cooking 
 to be eatable. 
 
174 KITCHEN REQUISITES. 
 
 KITCHEN REQUISITES. 
 
 As a workman cannot work properly without the requisite tools, 
 or the painter produce the proper shade without the necessary 
 colours, in like manner does every person wishing to economize 
 his food, and to cook it properly, require the proper furniture where- 
 with to doit. It is to be hoped that these pages, which have cos6 — 
 me both time and trouble, as well as months of travelling, will be 
 read by many above the class to whom it is more especially dedi- 
 cated; and that hereafter kitchen utensils may be considered proper 
 to give as a wedding present to a couple commencing housekeeping. 
 Nothing, I am certain, could be given that would be a better pro- 
 moter of peace and happiness in their home. 
 
 In a superior cottage, which, should it consist of four rooms, the 
 kitchen should be the back one, and not, as is often the case, the 
 font one, made into a kitchen and sitting-room, and the back one a 
 washhouse and receptacle for dirt, &e. Whilst I am on this subject, 
 I would remark that, in my opinion, all cottages or houses require, in 
 this climate, a porch, or second door; it would prevent the continued 
 draught and blowing in of the rain and dust, and thus avoid a great 
 deal of illness amongst the inmates, and add greatly to the cleanliness 
 and comfort of the dwelling; but if built upon H.R.H. Prince 
 Albert’s plan, they do not require it. 
 
 The back room should be fitted up with a proper grate, with oven 
 and boiler, and a copper holding at least six gallons. It should 
 have the requisite shelves, and a little sink to hold a tub, and with 
 a tap or pump for water; the latter article I consider the most 
 essential requisite of a cottager’s dwelling: it should possess two 
 eridirons, one single, one double, a large and small trying-pan, three 
 black saucepans, holding one gallon, half gallon, one quart, or a three- 
 leeged black pot, instead of the gallon one, a large iron spoon, a ladle, 
 two wooden spoons, a wooden bowl, a cullender, a chopper, a large 
 knife, a baking pan, a rolling pin, a paste brush, a stove brush, two 
 tin tart dishes, three brown basins, six bread tins or pans. 
 
 ‘A more humble abode, possessing two rooms, or perhaps only one, 
 which latter I disapprove of very much, as there ought to be two in 
 every dwelling, however small, will perhaps not be able to afford so many 
 articles of furniture; in which case I would recommend, as being the 
 most serviceable, the black pot, gridiron, frying-pan, earthen pan, or 
 bowl, or spoon, ladle, cullender, chopper, three basins, two tin tart 
 dishes, baking pan, with oven: with these most of the receipts in these 
 pages may be cooked to perfection. 
 
 And with the pan, gridiron, and frying-pan, nearly one half of the 
 receipts may be done. For baking stewing-pan, see Appendix. 
 
_ SOYER’S AERIAL COOKING STOVE. 175. 
 
 ON THE SELECTION OF VEGETABLES 
 
 A _ Asregards vegetation in general, the eye can soon detect the glowing 
 freshness, which nature deposits upon such delicate articles of food as 
 peas, asparagus, cucumbers, beans, spinach, salads of all kinds; any of 
 _ the above will not keep fresh after being cut, longer than twenty-four 
 hours, during the summer, and twice that time in winter. All 
 vegetables should be kept in as cool a place as possible; still, when 
 _ the bloom disappears, it is time to make your bargain, as they then 
 
 ean be had cheaper: do not, however, buy any vegetable on any part 
 _ of which decomposition has commenced to any extent, as if eaten in ~ 
 this state it will be found injurious to health. 
 
 Vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, common greens, carrots, 
 turnip-tops, leeks, celery, artichokes, both globe and Jerusalem, will 
 keep much longer. 
 
 Another way to ascertain if vegetables are old gathered, is to break 
 
 a piece off any one with the hand; if it snaps crisply it is fresh; if, 
 on the contrary, it has a flabby appearance, and is of a softish con- 
 | sistency, it is stale, and should be bought accordingly. 
 
 _SOYER’S AERIAL COOKING STOVE. 
 
 My DEAREST F'RIEND,—Wonders will never cease ; and ballooning, 
 T am happy to say, has at last proved itself of some use to humanity, - 
 for. no doubt, this ingenious apparatus, which I have now in contem- 
 plation before me, must have sprung out of those atmospheric castles 
 se unsafely built in the air; but the superiority of this little aerial 
 pigmy is so much above that of his brother monster balloon, that you 
 can have as many ascents in the course of a day as-you choose, even 
 with a parachnte, without the slightest danger of getting upset ; it is 
 capable also of successfully braving the strongest current of air; and, 
 contrary to all aeronautical notions, its descent is even more agreeable 
 than its ascent, for it actually refreshes and elevates the spirit of the 
 spectators, instead of causing them fear, whilst descending to terra 
 Sirma. 
 
 In this unassuming utensil, Eloise, the wealthy epicure and great 
 amateurs of cookery will be able to dress a most recherché: dinner 
 before the dining or drawing-room fire, without soiling his apart- 
 ment, apparatus, or even his fingers ; the cottager will be able, before 
 his humble fire, to transmogrify his coarse food to a nice stew, roast, 
 or baked pie to perfection. ; 
 
 In every cottage bread will be lighter, and contain more nutri- 
 ment, than when baked in a large oven, in which considerable evapo- 
 ration always takes place. ! 
 
 This little oven has not the slightest resemblance to our magi¢ 
 
176 +. ORYSTAL PALACE. 
 
 stove, which was made for the wealthy only, and which is now largely - 
 fraternizing with our troops and allies, in the war camps in the east, — 
 
 This little apparatus will be dedicated to all classes, but more par- 
 ticularly to the masses, as I think, from the model which I now mi ; 
 before me, it can be made for a few shillings. P. 
 
 I have already tried many receipts in it, all of which have more ef 
 than answered my expectations, copies of them will be printed and 
 sold with the apparatus. I have made good soup, and dressed fish - 
 and meat of all kinds, as well as vegetables, having also roasted and 
 baked meat, and made sweet and savoury pastry in it. 
 
 In fact, I may say, that in reality it is almost a complete idtchent 4 
 in a very small compass, a real petit bijour de famille, not quite SO. 
 large as our extensive friend Signor Lablache’s favourite hat. 
 
 VISIT TO THE CRYSTAL PALACE. 
 
 DrareEst Exorsr,—I was very much disappointed on my arrival in” 
 London that you were unable, through illness, to meet me at the © 
 station, as I need not tell you how charmed I should have been to & 
 embrace you, after nearly fifteen months’ absence, and verbally thank ~ 
 you for your more than punctual correspondence. } 
 
 My first visit, after my arrival in this monster metropolis, was 
 far from being a mournful one, such as I have been used to in my © 
 rusticating rambles. No, my dear, I had seen all its “dark side” — 
 of life before. It was to that fairy land and palace at Sydenham, 
 which, in my estimation, is a continuation of the “ Arabian Nights.” 
 It would be impossible for me to describe this wonder of the nineteenth — 
 century. I might almost say that it would be giving to every one a © 
 description of his own property, as it is the People’s Palace; and, 
 no doubt, every one will, if possible, go as often as convenient to get — 
 a sight of his own property, when they will be as charmed as I was. ~ 
 
 IfI cannot serve as a cicerone, as far as regards the beauties of the — 
 building, yet there is one department which no visitor can enter — 
 without the permission of the grand major-domo, or by the sanction © 
 of the chef-de-cuisine. I mean the victualling department and cellars — 
 of this gigantic place. The annals of gormandizing never told sucha ~ 
 tale as is here daily witnessed ; never were provisions better selected ~ 
 and more carefully managed than by Mr. Horne, the well-known and 
 talented director of this department, ,. 
 
 The cooking is most ably conducted by Mr. Fidler, late of the ~ 
 Reform Club, and pupil of Mr. Soyer. A large number of cooks, — 
 S aia his care and guidance, are daily erecting pyramids of food, — 
 
 rom the most recherché dish to the huge mountain of viands, to 
 satisfy the craving appetites of the thousands who daily visit this seat 
 of intellect. WN apoleon the First had a saying, that it is the stomach 
 
| 
 
 | 
 
 See a i a ee ae tS cunt ey eee ee Se 
 A od a : . ? A rh s 
 
 A VISIT TO THE CRYSTAL PALACE. 177 
 
 which governs the world: truly it is; for, to see the thousands who 
 are daily faring before a most sumptuous buffet, at once gives an 
 air of truth to the great warrior’s maxim. And these refreshments, 
 supplied as they are at a reasonable price, are sure to attract the 
 attention of the dainty public, and cannot fail being both beneficial to 
 shareholders and partakers. 
 
 I must not omit to mention one of the most interesting depart- 
 
 ments of the building, which is the manufacture of aerated waters, 
 
 where thousands of grosses of bottles are daily filled in a most artistic 
 manner, under the direction of Mr. Cox, whose new beverages, as you 
 doubtless recollect, were so much appreciated at the Exhibition of 
 1851. Being in a room where a private dinner was to take place for 
 twenty persons, I was charmed with the beautiful appearance pre- 
 sented by a pyramid of choice fruits, which on inquiry I ascertained 
 was supplied by no less a person than the prize fruiterer, as he is 
 called at the fruit shows, Mr. Lewis Solomon, of Covent Garden. 
 
 In the monster kitchen all the latest culinary improvements seem 
 to have been placed, and are daily in use. The one that carries off the 
 palm, in my estimation, isa beautiful gas roasting apparatus, designed 
 and patented by Messrs. Deane and Dray, of London-bridge. It is 
 internally lined with red bricks, which reflect a great heat on the 
 object roasting. Tons of meat and thousands of fowls have been 
 already dressed init. For Gas Cooking, see page 90. 
 
 Good Pickling for Beef and Pork.—Put in a pan or tub five 
 pounds of salt, three ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of brown sugar, 
 for a joint weighing from ten to twelve pounds, rub it well with 
 the above mixture three or four times, letting it remain in pickle for 
 a week; it is then ready for cooking: half an ounce of peppercorns, 
 or a few aromatic herbs, will vary the flavour. 
 
 Round of beef, edgebone, breast, flanks, or ox tongnes, are the 
 pieces generally salted; small legs, shoulders, and belly of pork, pig’s 
 cheek and feet the same. Time your pickling according to size. For 
 plain pickling, omit the sugar and saltpetre. 
 
 NEW WAY OF MAKING BEEF TEA. 
 
 Cut a pound of solid beef into small dice, which put into a stew- 
 pan, with two small pats of butter, a clove, a small onion sliced, and 
 two saltspoonfuls of salt; stir the meat round over the fire for ten 
 minutes, until it produces a thickish gravy, then add a quart of boil- 
 ing water, and let it simmer at the corner of the fire for half an hour, 
 skimming off every particle of fat; when done pass through a sieve. 
 I have always had a great objection to passing broth through a cloth, 
 as it frequently spoils its flavour. 
 
 The same, if wanted plain, is done by merely omitting the vege- 
 tables and clove: the butter cannot be objectionable, as it is taken 
 out in skimming; pearl-barley, vermicelli, rice, &c., may be served 
 
 init ifrequired, A little leek, celery, or parsley may be added, 
 
 N 
 
 i yes f. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 ON CARVING JOINTS. 
 
 DEAR Exorse,—I insert the following lesson on that culinary 
 accomplishment, carving, knowing what an important item itis in ~ 
 the art and mystery of cookery, and yet, how few there are who ~ 
 understand that apparently simple art. 4 
 
 First, you must truss your joint with taste, and take away any — 
 unsightly bone to give it a good shape, more especially the neck, — 
 loin, or breast of either veal, mutton, pork, or lamb. q 
 
 For a shilling or so you can purchase a small saw, and instead of — 
 letting the butcher divide the bone of a loin of mutton carelessly, saw 
 the bone through at about a distance of half an inch from each other. 
 Ribs of lamb, and breasts of mutton and veal the same. These being 
 most difficult joimts to carve, should be sawn carefully. 
 
 Roast ribs of beef, and sirloin, ought to be cut thinnish, following, 
 as near as possible, the grain of the meat, which you can soon learn 
 to do by paying a little attention. A little fat and gravy should be © 
 served on each plate. : 
 
 Salt beef ought to be cut thinner still. If out of a round ora 
 silver side, cut it even. Cold meat requires to be cut thinner than. 
 hot. 
 
 Roast fillet of veal, cut as round of beef, helping thin slices of 
 bacon or salt boiled pork; a little stuffing and gravy to be added. 
 
 Mutton requires to be cut rather thicker than beef or veal; pork 
 the same. 
 
 My way of carving a leg of mutton is by putting one prong of 
 the fork in the knuckle-bone, holding it in the left hand, then I cut 
 five or six slices in a slanting manner, towards me, dividing the first 
 two or three cuts equally amongst all the plates. By this method 
 you keep the meat full of gravy, each slice retaining its portion; 
 and it is far better, in an economical point of view, than cutting the — 
 joint across the centre, as by this means all the gravy runs out, espe- 
 cially if the meat is over done. a 
 
 Haunch of mutton I carve the same, giving a slice of the loin and a 
 one of the leg to each guest. ‘g 
 
 Saddle of mutton should never rg eut across the loin if you study 
 
 the meat, then begin at the top aie cut as thin chops in a slanting } 
 opti each slice about half an inch thick, which will are yous a fair 
 
TS REE et ee 8 te ET ae eT toe eu De ert ane 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 proportion of fat and lean. By this method, you can cut enough © 
 for ten to twelve persons, whereas by the other way you only get 
 enough for four or five. 
 
 For leg of lamb or pork proceed as for mutton, and for loin, 
 ribs, breast, or neck of either, proceed as above, having previously 
 divided it with a saw, which greatly facilitates the carving of these 
 joints. 
 
 SOYER’S BAKING STEWING PAN. 
 
 Dear Exotse,—Since I sent you the receipt for my new pan, I 
 perceive that very little fat is required with any meat done in it. 
 
 In the event of stewing fat meat or tripe (which is sometimes un- 
 avoidable), I first, before sending it to the table, remove the fat 
 which rises to the top with a spoon. 
 
 I must say that the more I use the pan the better I like it. I 
 have had it registered and they are now being manufactured in large 
 quantities by Messrs Deane and Dray, King William-street, City, 
 and will doubtless be before the public in a few weeks. For 
 description, see page 69, 
 
 he peer 
 
180 APPENDIX. 
 
 SEMI-ROASTING IN THE BAKING STEWING PAN. 
 
 This cut represents a tin pan in which a pudding is placed, and on 
 the trivet a joint of beef, previously boned; it is suspended from the 
 inside. Potatoes may be baked round the meat, without interfering 
 with the pudding. The pans will consist of three different sizes ; 
 namely, one to hold two quarts, one four, and the other six. Lean 
 meat is preferable to fat for semi-roasting in the baking stewing pan. 
 
 WT Ll eer E 
 
 ALARUM, OR COOKING CLOCK. 
 
 By the aid of this little alarum the housewife will be able to time 
 
 her joints, pies, and puddings, to an instant. 
 
 By winding it up and setting the hand back, starting from twelve, 
 to the time required for the article to cook. Say it is one, and your 
 joint is to be done at three,—move the hand to ten, wind up the 
 spring, and place the box on the table, giving at the time an impul-_ 
 ‘ sion to the pendulum. 
 
 N.B. The fire must be of a proper heat, or your joint will be either 
 under or over-done, They are to be purchased at No. 46, King 
 Wilham Street, City. 
 
APPENDIX, 181 
 
 SOYER’S IMPROVED BAKING DISH. 
 
 The above is a sketch of my improved Baking-dish, which I have 
 before described at page 94. 
 
 If the oven is rather slack, the pudding baked in it will require 
 turning; therefore, when well set, remove the grating containing 
 the meat and potatoes, cut your pudding in four pieces, turn each 
 piece, replace the grating, and bake till done. 
 
 VEGETABLE DRAINER. 
 
 The above is a sketch of a saucepan, fitted with a perforated pan 
 » and a vegetable drainer. asi 
 
 This group, though extremely simple, is perhaps one of the most 
 economical cooking utensils ever put before the public, and ought. 
 to have a place in every kitchen. 
 
 It possesses two great qualities, inasmuch as it saves time, and 
 supersedes the tedious method of fishing the greens or cabbage out of 
 the saucepan ; and prevents the now every-day eyil of emptying with 
 
 x 
 
189° APPENDIX. 
 
 the water in which the vegetables have been boiled, a quantity of the : 
 
 material, which by accident might be left in the pot—thereby 
 
 clogging up the drain, to the annoyance of the household. To be had 
 
 of Messrs. Deane & Dray, King William Street, City. 
 DIRECTIONS FOR USE. 
 
 Fit the perforated pan inside the saucepan, half fill it with water, 
 add two teaspoonfuls of salt, and when the water boils put in your 
 greens, or whatever else you may cook. Let it boil fast until tender, 
 then lift out the perforator by the handles, and with the crusher 
 press lightly the water out, and serve. 
 
 To boil pork, bacon, or salt beef, with greens :—When any of these 
 are half done, put in your greens, using only half the quantity of 
 salt; when ready, dish up the meat, press the broth out, which save 
 for soup for the next day’s use. (See Soups.) 
 
 This represents a model of a 
 Chimney Screw-jack for suspend- 
 ing joints to, Its cost is very | 
 trifling, and may be purchased 
 at any ironmonger’s. It will 
 fit on any mantel-shelf; and it 
 enables the joint to be shifted 
 nearer or further from the fire, 
 as occasion requires, 
 
 I have ordered a small tin- 
 screen which folds in three, and 
 will occupy only a small space 
 before the fire, which will greatly 
 increase the heat whenin use. I 
 cannot give a cut of it in the 
 present edition, as I have not yet 
 received the drawing. 
 
AANA 
 
 SOYER’S KITCHEN FOR THE ARMY. 
 
 DurinG the period of the famine in Ireland, I took with me a portable 
 kitchen, and erected it opposite the Royal Barracks in Dublin, and with 
 which I cooked and delivered rations for 26,600 persons daily. ; 
 
 Having last year taken a peep at the camp at Chobham, as well as the 
 camp at Satory in France, and seeing, by the ordinary manner in which | 
 the provisions for the different messes were cooked, even in France, that a — 
 large amount of nutriment of the food was lost, it occurred to me that, if a 
 moveable kitchen could be made to travel with the army, it would be exceed- 
 ingly useful, whilst on the march, or when encamped. 
 
 The following is an explanation of the above kitchen: 
 
 The carriage is made of sheet-iron, weighing, with water, fuel, &,a 
 
 little more than one ton. The lower part consists of a circular steam boiler, 
 and the upper part of an oven. Over the oven are placed the various pans 
 containing the rations required to be cooked by steam, and on each side is 
 a hanging shelf, which will also hold steam saucepans in front, and round 
 the driver’s seat is a reservoir for water, and a place to hold the condiments, &c. 
 
 The plan of working it would be to draw it near to a stream orreservoir ~ 
 of water—if brackish or muddy it does not matter*—there fill the boiler | 
 and reservoir, and remove it to any convenient spot. The fuel may con- 
 sist of wood, coal, turf, &c. &c. Within one hour after the fire is lighted 
 the steam would’be up, and the oven hot, and with one six feet long and 
 three feet wide, rations for 1000 men could be cooked by baking and 
 steaming in about two hours, and the apparatus moved on again, or it 
 would cook whilst on the march, if on an even road. 
 
 Its advantages are, saving of time, labour, men, and food, and the cer- | 
 tainty that the men could get their food properly cooked. 
 
 The cost of each apparatus. would not exceed 100J. 
 
 * Any tainted water is made good by first converting it into steam, 
 
 7 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Bacon, observations on curing, p. 82 | Bread, brown rye, 408 
 Batter, 462 
 
 ” 
 
 for toad in the hole, 461 
 
 Beans, see vegetables 
 Beef, to choose at market p. 171 
 
 ” 
 
 $9 
 
 a9 
 117 
 
 a-la-mode, 191 
 
 plainer, 192 
 
 cold, 166, 1938 
 
 aitch, or edgebone of, 78 
 brisket, 78 
 
 baking in stewpan, 224 
 Carthusian, 111 
 collops, 169 
 
 curry of, 159 
 
 hashed, 158A 
 
 leg of, 174 
 minced, 156, 158, 239 
 pudding, 233—235 
 
 » roast, 237, 238 
 
 round of, 78 
 
 ribs, salted, 78 
 
 », baked, p. 95 
 semi-roasted, 207 
 baked, p. 224 
 
 salt, 78, 227 
 
 skirt, 78 
 
 ss INO. 1, 234 
 
 spiced, 226 
 steak in baking-pan, 171—-173 
 » to semi-fry, 136—139A 
 
 4)» ple, 262 
 3 family, 263 
 >», deyilled, 118 
 
 stewed, 224 
 
 ragout of, 188 
 
 vegetables with, 175 
 
 as bubble and squeak, 160 
 
 Beverages, p. 168 
 Biscuit balls, 458 
 
 99 
 
 foreign, 400 
 
 Boiling, p. 30 
 Bones, devilled, 442 
 Bread, on, 402 
 
 9 
 
 brown, 406 
 
 important remarks on, 
 
 A cottage, 403 
 i crumb, 452 
 » keeping, 409 
 o milk, 404 
 Ss » plainer, 405 
 »  Yice, 407 
 oe toast, how to, 404 
 Broiling, p. 17 
 Brown stock, 3 
 9»  gravies, 4 
 Browning, 453 
 BUTTER :— 
 Anchovy, 427 
 Black, or burnt, 4254 
 Hotel-keepers, 426 
 Melted, 410 
 Eschalot, 118 
 
 CAKES :— 
 Almond, 824 
 Apple, 392 
 Bread apple, 396 
 Cottage, 394, 331 
 Cheese, 329 
 Eccles, 395 
 Gallette, poor man’s, 332 
 4s aristocratic, 3380 . 
 Gingerbread, 389 
 Ginger, 388 
 Milk, 394 
 Orange, 324 
 Plain, 398 
 Plum, 385 
 » common, 386 
 Preserve, 325 
 Rice, 390 
 » plain, 401 
 », common, 391 
 » ground, 387 
 Rock, 3884 
 Soda, 399 
 Spice, 393 
 Sweet, 394 
 Tipsy, 397 
 Small cream, 326 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Calf’s brains, 241 
 » feet, 87 
 ” ‘ » jelly, 358 
 » head, 87 
 
 Bigs ee RYORT Os 125: 
 », liver, semi-fried, 147, 190 
 toe eh oe and heart,.148 
 » heart, stewed, 180 
 » tails, 187 
 tongue, head, &c. pudding, 243 
 Cheesecakes, 329 
 Chemistry of food, p. 5 
 Chickens, see Poultry 
 Chopping of onions, 449 
 Choice of meat, &c., p. 170 
 Coffee, 466 
 » Original hints on, 466 
 Cold meats, 161, 166 
 Crab, see Shell-fish, 
 Cream, Bohemian, 356 
 », Devonshire, 443 
 » pastry, 887A 
 » velvet, 371 
 » white, 357 
 Croquettes, rice, 372 
 Crust, 327 
 Cottage roasting, p. 90 
 Cookery, ignorance of the poor in, 
 p. 40 
 Currant-jelly, 464B 
 Curry, fish, 89 
 ee rabbit, 205 
 y tripe, 165A 
 . lamb, 159 
 S meat, 159 
 Custard, coffee and chocolate, 362 
 Be farm, 365 
 as plain, 361 
 FA pie-dish, in, 363 
 ak gooseberry fool, 368 
 Cutlets, see Lamb, Mutton, Veal 
 Cheese stirabout, 93 
 Carthusian of meat and vegetables, 
 111—114 
 
 Dinner, our Christmas, 85 
 Dish, an improved baking, p. 94 
 DRINKS :— 
 Apple, &c., 467—472 
 
 Dough, 340 
 Dumplings, apple, 347A, 348 
 
 Fy lemon, 347 
 
 a nursery fruit, 328 
 a simple suet, 349 
 
 ‘ 
 
 Ecos, on, p. 115 
 
 185 
 
 Eggs, to ascertain if fresh, 300 
 » ancients on, 301 
 » boiled, plain, 301 
 » boil, to, 302 
 He - for toast, 303 
 » baked, 304 
 », bacon and, 307 
 » convent fashion, 308 
 » mixed, 306 
 » omelette, or fraise, 310 
 with herbs, 311 
 fe oS 3, bacon, 312 
 a », oysters and 
 shell- fish, 313 
 Eggs, omelette, sweet, 314 
 preserves, 315 
 Re % spirit, $154 
 » poached, 305 
 9 sausages, 309 
 
 ” ” 
 
 ” 9 
 
 Feet, calves, 87 
 » OX, 269 
 » pig’s, 203 
 » Sheep's, 88 
 FIs :— 
 How to boil all kinds, 21 
 How to boil sliced, 55 
 New way, 56 
 To cook in oven, 59 
 99, Lesson No..1, 60 
 Fried, Jewish fashion, 79 
 Fresh-water, p. 23 
 Fried, p. 26 
 How to ascertain when done, p. 21 
 Brill, 52 
 Cod, 57 
 », liver, 103—110 
 » sounds and melt, 62, 66, 102 
 » hard roe, 101,63, 64 
 Codlings, 222 ~ 
 Conger eel, 61, 62, 66, 222 
 Curry, 89 
 Eels, dried, 49 
 » fresh, 50, 59 4 
 9 dried, 71 
 » stewed, 98—100 
 Flounders, 47 
 Fritters, 161 
 Gurnets, 67, 222 
 Hallibut, 66, 222 
 t Jewish fashion, 75 5 
 “o in oil, 77 
 Hake, 62, 66 
 Haddock, 40, 62, 222 
 Herring, red, 38 
 rr fresh, 39,71, 220 
 
186 
 
 Ling, 62, 66, 222 
 Mackerel, 42, 43, 44, 45 
 5 in baking stewpan, 220 
 - in pie-dish, 69 
 Rs pickled, 70 
 Pilchard, 221 
 Plaice, 60, 67, 74 
 Salads, 440 
 Salmon, salted, 48 
 * fresh, 54 
 Salt, 57 
 Small, to cook, 48 
 Sauce, 45, 413 
 Soles, 72, 73, 47 
 Sprats, 221 
 Tench, 58 
 Turbot, 53 
 Whiting, 61 
 In baking stew-pan, 218 
 Pieces of in ditto, 219 
 Eels ditto, 223 
 Puddings, 256 
 ‘A plainer, 257 
 . mackerel, 258 
 Es eel, 259 
 Pies, 266 
 Fritters, 161—163 
 FRUITS :— 
 >», damson, 384 
 Apple, buttered, 383 
 » . fritters, 381 
 » cake, 392, 396 
 » drinks, 467—9 
 » Tice water, 470 
 » . Stewed, Nos. 1,'2,:3, 384 
 sauce, 414 
 Blackberry pudding, 354 
 . Currant jelly, 4648 
 Fruit fritters, 161-—s 
 Various, stewed, 384 
 FRYING, ‘ON, p. 55 
 » pan, p. 48 
 Fry, semi, 136 
 ey Lessons on, 140, 141 
 
 GAME :— 
 Hare toad in the hole, 215 
 » Jjugged, 216 
 43 marinaded, 217 
 » pie, 207 
 Larks, 215 : 
 Partridge and cabbage pudding, 
 254 
 Rabbits, large Dutch, 204 
 Rabbit, semi-roasted, 212 
 
 » toad in the hole, 215 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Rabbit pudding, 251 
 » pie, 265 
 » boiled, 84 
 »  semi-fried, 153 
 
 5 curry, 205 . 
 
 » plain broiled, 206 
 
 » Rook, young, pudding, 
 255 a 
 
 Giblets, 26, 263, 
 Gridiron, what I can cook with my; 
 pole 
 
 Haddocks, see Fish 
 
 Ham, important observations on, 81, 
 82 
 
 Herbs, sweet, ash of, 451 
 
 Imagination, effect of, p. 63 
 
 Irish stew, 183 
 
 Tron pot, three-legged, introduction 
 to, p. 29 
 
 Jam, 464A 
 Jelly, 464B 
 » isinglass and gelatine, 355 
 »  calf’s-foot, 35S 
 » orange, 359 
 » lemon, 860 
 
 Kidneys, broiled, 134 
 MS ox, 177—9 
 f pudding, 246 
 Kitchen utensils, 175 
 
 Lamb, p. 38 
 » boiled leg of, 83 
 Chop, 126 
 » choice of, p: 171 
 » curry, 159 
 iy ey, WSO 
 » . head, 115, 194 
 >» Heart, 125 
 » kidneys, 134 
 » leg, 194 
 ». neck, 194 
 ss renaiee ny 210 
 
 » © baked, 
 3 tongue, gritty and feet buds: f 
 ding, 249 
 
 » roasting, time for, 231 
 Larding, 450 Beas = 
 Liver, ox, 96, 244 iN 
 
 » cod, 104—9 a ! 
 
 » ditto and balls, 459,470 | 
 
 »» calves’, 147, 148, 190, 346° 
 
 »  lamb’s, ao 245 
 
INDEX. . 
 
 Liver stuffing, 457 
 
 Mackerel, see Fish 
 Macaroni, 463 
 Meats, a series of receipts on, 
 Marketing, on, p. 170 
 Meal, Indian poulenta, 94, 95 
 Meat, boiled, cold, and broiled, 130, 
 
 226 
 
 » curry, 159 
 
 » fritters, 161, 162 
 
 » Mmineed, 156, 158 
 
 » hashed, 1584 
 
 » remains of cold, 166 
 
 » puddings, 233 
 
 ‘» im baker’s oven, p. 93 
 
 » toad in the hole, 215 
 
 Carthusian, 111—114 
 
 Mussel, 445, see Sauce 
 Mushrooms, 443 
 Mutton 
 
 » boiled, 81 
 
 » chops, 120, 121 
 
 » cutlets, 142 
 
 », choice of at market 
 
 5, pudding, 247 
 
 »  ragout of, 974 
 
 » remains of, 168 
 
 »  ragout, brown, of, 183 
 
 » roasted, semi, 208 
 
 » | roasting, on, 230, 232 
 
 Omelettes, (see Eggs) 
 Onions, to chop, 449 
 Oven, baker’s meat, p. 93 
 Ox brains, 449 
 », cheek toad in the hole, 215 
 » feet, 86 
 » heart, 125,177'179 
 » tail, 176 ¥ 
 » kidneys, 177 
 ; liver, lst Lesson on, 155 
 ,, tongue, potted and braized, 184 
 a » fresh and pickled, 185 
 » tripe, curried, 165A 
 pickled, 165 
 Lyons way, 164 
 toad in the hole, 165 
 sauted or semi-fried, 165A, 
 86 
 
 ” 3) 
 
 Pancake, 380. 
 
 Paste, puff, 3153 
 
 half, 316 
 another, 316A 
 plainer, 317 
 
 ” ” 
 ” ” 
 ” tbe 
 
 187 
 
 | Paste, puff, short, 318 
 
 » pudding, 319 
 PASTRY, ON, p. 119 
 Fruit, 320, 821, 323 
 Plain puff, 3234 
 Small, 322 
 » pudding, 454 
 » panada, 92 
 Pickles, 465 
 », for hams, beef, &c., 62 
 Pies, how to make, 126 
 » introduction, 126 
 »» artisan’s pie, 268 
 Ae Res beefsteak, 262 
 » family, 263 
 » veal, 264 
 », pork, 264 
 » fish, 266 
 » hare, 267 
 » rabbit, 265 
 poor man’s, 269 
 Pigeons, see Vegetables 
 Pig’s cheek 
 3 feet, 208 
 » kidneys, 134, 146 
 », head, 250 
 » heart, 125, 255, 180 
 » liver, 213 
 » brain and tongue, 242 : 
 Useful hints on the cucking-pig, p. 
 83, 173 
 Plum, see Fruit 
 Poached eggs, see Eggs 
 Pork, to choose, p. 171 
 » . With apples, 196, 197. 
 » bladebone, 215 
 », chops, 145, 124 
 35. Curry 159 
 » hashed, 158A 
 » leg, baked, p. 95 
 3» pie, 264 
 9, pudding, 250 
 », salt, 198—201 
 » toad in the hole, 215 
 » and beef, semi -Carthusian 
 111 
 » pulse, 202 
 » boiled, 79 
 » sausages, 128 
 » black puddings, 129 
 » sausages and kidneys, 146 
 semi-roasted, 209 
 Pouurry, 150 
 To choose, p. 173 
 Chickens, 254 
 Deyilled, 154 
 
188 INDEX. 
 
 Ducks, p. 173 
 Fowls, 85,135, 151 
 Fritters, 161 
 Geese, p. 173 
 Pigeons, 135, 152 
 Turkey, boiled, 85 
 “i roasted, 211 
 44 semi-roasted, 211 
 Roasting, 232 
 Pudding, 252, 253 
 PuDDINGS :— 
 Observations on, 286 
 Baked, 260 
 Meat, on, 233 
 Beef, 234 
 » With kidneys, 235 
 Roast beef, 237, 238 
 Mince beef, with eggs, 239 
 Veal, 240 
 Calves’ brain and tongue, 241 
 Sheeps’, lambs’, and pigs’ do., 242 
 Calves’ head and tongue, 243 
 Lamb, veal, and ox liver, 244 
 Do. plainer, 245 
 Liver and kidney, 246 
 Mutton, 247 
 Sheep’s head, tongue, &c., 248 
 Lamb, 249 
 ’ Pork, 250 
 Rabbit, 251 
 Chicken, 252 ~ 
 Pigeon, 253,255 « 
 Do. brown, 253 
 Partridge and cabbage, 254 
 Young rook, 255 
 Fish, 256 
 Do. plainer, 257 
 Mackerel, 258 
 Kel, 259 
 Baked, 260 
 Half-steamed, 261 
 Important observations, 261 
 Cloths, on, 261 
 Sweet, p. 128 
 Plum, 334 
 Mould, 335 
 Fruit, 3354 
 Curd milk, 336 
 Cocoa-nut, 337 
 Plain rice, 338 
 Spotted dick, 339 
 Apple and paste, 341 
 Suet, 342 
 Bread, 348 
 Brown bread, 344 
 Rice, vermicelli, and macaroni, 345 
 
 Broken biscuit, 844A 
 
 For a large family and school, 
 346 
 
 Rice and preserve, 350 
 
 Ground rice, 351 
 
 Handy, 353 
 
 Young England, 854 
 
 Bread, custard, various ways, 367 
 
 Egg, 366 
 
 Lemon, 378 
 
 Potato, 375 
 
 Dough, with apples, 376 
 
 Yorkshire, 1st class, 225, 377 
 
 i 2d do., 378 
 + 3d. do., 379 
 RELISHES :— 
 
 Bones, devilled, 442,131, 132 
 Herring with whisky, 441 
 Mushrooms, 443 
 Mussells, 445 
 Oysters on toast, 446 
 ae scalloped, 447 
 Rabbit, Welsh, 441—444 
 fs Trish, 447 
 Scallops, 448 
 Toast, broiled and devilled, 133 
 
 Rabbits, see Game 
 RICE :— 
 
 With apples, 350 
 How to boil, 455 
 Cakes, 390, 401, 387 
 Bread, 406 
 Croquettes, 372 
 Preserye, 350 
 Panada, 91 
 Pudding, 851 
 Savoury, 90 
 
 ROASTING, ON, p. 88 
 
 How to, p. 89 
 
 Gas, p. 90 
 
 Jack, see Appendix 
 Time, 91 
 
 Cottage, 90 
 
 Semi, 207 
 
 SALADS, ON, p. 155 
 
 Beans, French, 436 
 »  Harico and lentil, 4354 
 Beet-root, 436 
 Brussels sprouts, 436 
 Cabbage lettuce, 429 
 Celery, 436 
 Crab, 440 
 Cucumber, 436 
 Dandelion, 432 
 
Endive, 430 
 French, 431 
 Fish, 439, 440 
 Lettuce, coss, 428 
 Marsh mallow, 432 
 Meat, 438 
 Mustard and cress, 433 
 Onions, 436 
 Potatoes, 437 
 Poultry, 438 
 Radish, 436 
 Sauce, 434 
 Vegetables for, 435 
 Water cresses, 432 
 Fruit, 369, 370 
 SAUCES :— 
 Anchovy, 411 
 Apple, 414 
 Brown, 412 
 Bread, 4254 
 Caper, 411, 423 
 Celery, 423 
 Chili vinegar, 423 
 Cod liver, 413 
 Crab, 413 
 Cream, 424 
 Cucumber, 411 
 Curry, 425B 
 Egg, 425¢ 
 Fennel, 425c 
 Fish, 413 
 Harvey’s, 411 
 Horse-radish, 416 
 ' Hotel-keepers’, 418 
 Lobster, 413 
 Melted butter, 1 and 2, 410 
 _ Mint, 415 
 Mustard, 425 
 Mussell, 413 
 Onion, 411, 422 
 Oyster parsley, 413 
 » pickle, 411, 413 
 Shrimp, 413 
 Soyer’s Relish, 411 
 7 Mustard, 411 
 Sharp, 420 
 Simple, 421 
 Salad, 434 
 Sage and onion, 411 
 Spirit sauce, 417 
 Vegetable marrow, 411 
 White sauce, 413, 419 
 Sours :— 
 American butter squash, 18 
 _, Artichokes, Jerusalem, 8 
 Autumn, 23 
 
 3 
 
 INDEX, — 189 
 
 Carrot, 9 
 a Leds 22 
 » White, 22 
 Cock-a-leekie, 23 
 <6 new, 23 
 Cow-heel, 15 
 Giblet, 26 
 Hare, 27, 28 
 Hodge-podge, 25 
 Meagre, 19 
 Meat, various, 26 
 Macaroni, 10 
 Mock turtle, 14 
 Mutton broth, new, 32 
 Mulligatawny, 31 
 Ox-cheek, 38 
 Ox-tail, 39 
 Ox-cheek in pan, 35 
 Ox-tail KS 34 
 Pea, cheap, 36 
 » Meagre, 39 
 Pot-au-feu, French, 97 
 Pumpkin, 18 
 Parsnip, 22 
 Potato, 33 
 Rice, 11 — 
 Semolina, 12 
 Spring, 23 
 Swedes, 22 
 Stock for, 1 
 5 simplified, 1 
 Turnip, 21 
 Tapioca, 12 
 Turnip, clear, 7 
 Vegetable, clear, 5 ‘i 
 ” ” 26 Beis 
 s thick, or purée, 17 
 marrow, 20 
 Vermicelli, 10, 164 
 ve with v egetables, 16 
 meat, 13 
 Sheep’ 4 praise: 181 
 » | téet, 88 
 »o dread, 11,116 
 0, Heart, L80 
 » tongue and brain pudding, © 
 242 
 Stewpan, baking, p. 69 
 Stock for soups, 1 
 » simplified ,, 2 
 Stuffing, cod-liver, 459 
 a liver, 457 
 of. veal, 456 
 
 Tarts, plain, 833 
 Tea, a few hints on, 466, — 
 
190 : INDEX, 
 
 Toast, broiled and devilled, 133. 
 Toad in the hole, No. 1, 215 
 ~ No. 2, potatoes, 
 
 No. 8, peas, 
 
 No. 4, cooked meat, 
 
 No. 5, calf’s brains, 
 
 No. 6, larks and sparrows, 
 
 No. 7, ox-cheek, 
 
 No. 8, rabbit, 
 
 No. 9, hare, 
 
 No. 10, pork, 
 
 NOs ee salt: 
 
 Veal, boiled, 80 
 » cutlets, 123, 143, 144 
 a SCROpE 22 
 » cutlets for the aged, 170 
 », Choice of, 170 
 » leg of baked, 186 
 », Yremains of, 168 
 » Yragout of, 188 
 » stuffing, 456 
 » fillet of, 189, 239 
 » baking stew-pan, in, 214 
 » roasting, time for;p. 91 
 5, pie, 264 
 pudding, 241 
 Vegetables, on the selection of, p. 175 
 
 Artichokes, Jerusalem, 277 
 
 no ae with cheese sauce, 293 
 Asparagus, 283 
 
 spread, 283 
 
 Beans, broad, 290 
 
 oH Windsor, 290 
 
 French and kidney, 291 
 Beet, red and white, 282 
 Broeoli, 292 
 
 “3 with cheese sauce, 293 
 Carrots, 280 
 
 ” white, 281 
 
 Cabbage, stewed, 287 
 mi red, pickled, 465 
 Cauliflower, 292 
 5 with cheese sauce, 293 
 Celery, 284 
 Greens, cabbage, 285 
 » spring, 286 
 » thousand heads, 293 
 Haricots, 294, 295 
 Kail, 293 
 Lentils, 294, 295 
 Nettles, 296 
 Peas, green, 289 
 » large dry, 297 
 Potatoes, on, 270 
 Ls boiled, 271 
 3 how to choose, 270 
 ss new, 272 
 ¢5 baked, 273 
 » with sausage, or Soyer’s, 
 274 
 mashed, 275 
 » new, roasted, 276 
 3... dried, 298 
 » fried cooked, 299 
 pudding, 375 
 Parenip, 281 
 Sea kale, 284 
 Spinach, 288 
 Savoys, 285,287 
 Sprouts, 286 
 + Brussels, 293 
 Sweet docks, 296A 
 Swedes, 279 
 
 Thousand heads, 293 ’ 
 Turnips, 278, 286 
 
 Vegetables for salads, 435 
 * 3, pudding, 114 
 
 THE END, - 
 
SPT Coes Cee ee es 
 
 - BANK OF DEPOSIT, | 
 
 8, PALL MALL EAST, 
 
 AND 
 
 7, ST. MARTIN’S PLACH, TRAFALGAR. SQUARE, 
 
 LONDON. 
 Established in 1844. 
 
 CAPITAL STOCK, £100,000. 
 HIS ASSOCIATION A composed of two distinct 
 
 and separate branches: the one comprising the business of a 
 Bank of Deposit for Investment of Capital; the other, the ordinary 
 transactions of Life Assurance. 
 
 Banking Department. 
 
 The object of this Department is to afford a safe and easy mode of 
 Investment, which secures equal advantages to the Savings of the 
 Provident and the Capital of the Affluent, and to effect important 
 improvements in the present system of Monetary economy, both as 
 regards the security afforded to the Public and'the rate of Interest 
 realized. 
 
 The plan of this Association differs materially from that of ordinary 
 Banks in the mode of investing Capital—ultimate profit and security 
 being the main objects regarded, the Board of Management principally 
 
 employ their Funds in Loans upon vested Life Interests, and other 
 
 similar securities, and in the purchase of well-secured Reversions, a 
 class of, securities offered almost daily to Life Assurance Companies, 
 which, although not immediately convertible, it is well known yields 
 
 the greatest amount of profit, combined with the most perfect safety. 
 
 Envestment Accounts. 
 
 Money is received daily at the Head Office between the hours of 
 Ten and Four o'clock, where Forms of Application may be obtained. 
 Parties desirous of opening Investment Accounts, may do so with 
 
 capital of any amount, which may be increased from time to time, 
 
 at the convenience of Depositors. 
 
 _ A Stock Voucher, signed by two Directors, is given for each sum 
 deposited. , 
 
 INTEREST PAYABLE IN JANUARY AND JULY. 
 PETER MORRISON, Managing Director. 
 
 Nattowan Assurance anv INvESTMENT ASSOCIATION, 
 7, St. Martin’s Place, Trafalgar Square, London. 
 
 @@ Prospectuses and Forms of Proposal for Assurance, and of i! 
 
 Application for Investment Stock, will be forwarded, post free ; and 
 every requisite Information may be obtained either at the Head 
 
 Offices of the Association, or at the various Branches and Agencies — i 
 throughout the United Kingdom. | 
 
 lL 
 
 | MU WT 
 
JAMES CAMPBELL, 
 WINE MERCHANT, 
 158, REGENT STREET & BORDEAUX. 
 
 CASH PRICES FOR 1854, 
 
 CLARETS. PORT. 
 BOTTLES AND CASES INCLUDED. per Dozen. 
 Sees Port, from the wood 30s. & 36s. 
 Vin de Bord P "1 "Ditto, ‘cfastedis. he... .7a 428: 
 oa Julien ALN igs, as Sante ae Ditto, five to ten years in 
 Weep th ee ae boite eh a fis 48s. to 60s. 
 Haut Brion, St. ‘Emilion, 
 OO Weg Dee Me ional 
 Lafitte and Chateau Mar- Sherry, pale and golden... 30s. 
 gaux... ... ... ... 66s. to 80s. | Ditto, ditto .. 36s. 
 Ditto, ditto, very fine 
 WHITE WINES OF FRANCE, 42s. & 48s. 
 BOTTLES AND CASES INCLUDED. Nee a Brand C.Z., old ‘i 
 Win de Grave (oe BE: ottle, very choice. 54s. & 60s. 
 Barsac Vatican ke Soul tek oy sett eae 
 PSBUGerMe,.5.667-0. Das 285, to 48s. MADEIRA. 
 Chablis ... .., .... 30s. to 36s. | Madeira, direct ... 42s. & 45s. 
 Ditto, fine old East India 
 CHAMPAGNE. 60s. to 84s. 
 Perrier, Jofet, &c. 48s. to 54s. 
 & 60s. BUCELLAS, &c. 
 Clicquot’s; dry?) ii... See 728. 
 Ditto, eres sentto Russia 72s. Bucellas, first eh +. 368, 
 Marsala... Abeer ge % 
 Lisbon TO AS, Uo. Dany aes 
 nee seyigle maaetiairetein ts Carcavellos site! *Ractis We ge ARO Se 
 Hock, Hockheim... ....... 36s. 
 Ditto, Neirstein ©... ...%.-. A8s. 
 Ditto, Rudesheim, Johan- 
 nisberg, Steinberg, &c. Hennessy’s Old Pale 
 60s. to 80s.| Brandy .. ... 60s. 
 Ditto, sparkling ... 60s. to 72s. | Campbell's ca " years "old 
 Moselle, sparkling 60s. to 72s.} Glenlivat Whisky ... ... 40s. 
 
 The Largest Stock of HENNESSY’S PALE BRANDY and Old _ 
 
 GLENLIVAT WHISKY in England, 
 2 
 
weeks 
 
 ; 4 ROYAL 
 PANOPTICON OF SCIENCE AND ART, 
 
 LEICESTER SQUARE. 
 OPEN DAILY FROM 12 to 5. 
 Evenings (Saturdays excepted) from 7 to 10. 
 
 ADMISSION, ls. SATURDAYS, Qs. 6d. 
 
 GREAT ORGAN, LECTURES, 
 MACHINERY IN ACTION, 
 ELECTRICITY, &c. &c. &c. 
 
 PHOTOCRAPHIC DEPARTMENT OPEN DAILY. 
 
 Will be found speedily to reanimate the spirits, improve the digestive powers, and 
 yestore the whole nervous system to a happy and natural state; the balsamic 
 powers of this medicine produce that delightful feeling of good spirits so very de- 
 sirable, and dispose both mind and body to healthy exercise; everything under its 
 influence soon wears a joyous aspect, and the varied duties of life are performed 
 with pleasure; and, instead of long and weary nights, give sound and refreshing 
 sleep. Ifthe stomach and bowels require it, Parr’s Lirz Pruts act as the mildest 
 and most agreeable purgative, and by their cleansing powers totally eradicate a 
 redundancy of bile. 
 
 TO LADIES.—Parr’s Life Pills are especially efficacious in all the variety of ailments 
 ineidental to the Fair Sex. Ladies even of the most delicate constitutions will find them 
 particularly beneficial both before and after confinement: and for general use in Schools 
 they cannot be too strongly recommended. They mildly and speedily remove all Skin 
 Eruptions, Sallowness of complexion, Nervous Irritability, Sick Head-ache, Depression of 
 Spirits, Irregularity, or General Derangement of the System. 
 
 Testimony of an Eminent Chemist in favour of PARR’S LIFE PILLS. 
 
 GENTLEMEN,—At the request of several friends, who have introduced Parr’s Life 
 Pills into their families as a medicine, I have submitted them to a strict chemical analysis, 
 in order to ascertain whether they contained any of those active mercurial and other 
 mineral preparations now so commonly introduced into many advertised medicines. I 
 beg to say that I find them worthy of being recommended to the public for their great 
 efficacy and simplicity, and, as stated by the Proprietors, to be really vegetable pills, con- 
 taining, as they do, nothing but what is of vegetable origin. I am, Gentlemen, 
 
 Your obedient servant, JOHN DALE, Analytical Chemist, Manchester. 
 
 BEWARE OF SPURIOUS IMITATIONS.— None are Genuine, unless the words 
 ““PARR’S LIFE PILLS” are in white letters on a red ground, on the Government 
 Stamp, pasted round each box ; also, the fac-simile of the signature of the Proprietors, 
 “'T ROBERTS and Co., Crane-court, Fleet-street, London,” on the Directions. 
 
 Sold in boxes, at Is. 14d., 2s. 9d., and family packets at lls. each. Full directions are 
 given with each box. 
 
 Sold by E. EDWARDS, 67, St. Paul’s Churchyard; BARCLAY and SONS, Farringdon- 
 street; SUTTON and Co., Bow Churchyard: HANNAY and Co., 63, and SANGER, 150, 
 Oxford-street, London ; and by all respectable Chemists and Medicine Vendors in Town 
 and Country. 3 
 
HOTEL DE PROVENCE, — 
 18, LEICESTER SQUARE, | 
 
 RESTAURANT A LA CARTE AT PARIS PRICES. 
 
 : 
 
 CUISINE FRANCAISE ET ITALIENNE. 
 DINING ROOMS FOR PARTIES. 
 
 CHOICE WINES. AND SPIRITS. 
 
 SABLONIERE HOTEL, 
 
 30, LEICESTER SQUARE, 
 
 HOTEL AND RESTAURANT. 
 
 Table & Héte in the Continental Style, at Six o’ Clock, at 
 
 which Ladies and Famtlies can dine. 
 
NHE PERFECT SUBSTITUTE FOR SILVER.— 
 THE REAL NICKEL SILVER, introduced twenty yearz 
 
 oe by WILLIAM 8. BURTON, when plated by the patent pro- 
 
 cess of Messrs. Elkington and Co., is beyond all comparison the very 
 best article next to sterling silver that can be employed as such, 
 either usefully or ornamentally, as by no. possible test can it be dis- 
 tinguished from real silver. — 
 
 Thread or 
 Fiddle Brunswiek King’s 
 
 - 3 — Pattern Pattern. 
 
 ea Spoons, ozen- wee 88s Aa |. way 08: a 32s. 
 Dessert holes Pan tace ites see. OMG. sabi, does «SOON, linaty, “cen! SOS 
 Dessert Spoons ,, es evo sve 30s 428. se ore 488. 
 Table Forks (25° (aes ReaD Rl ecaie ye OU Sg mc. gl ey OAS g 
 Table Spoons: > 32. Pee 40s. e290) ote 58s, o2e 8908 66s. 
 
 Tea and coffee sets, waiters, candlesticks, &c., at proportionate 
 
 prices. All a of re-plating ‘done by the patent process. 
 
 CHAMICALLY PURE NICKEL NOT PLATED. 
 Fiddle. Thread, King’s. 
 
 - Fable Spoons and Forks, fall nahin De GOGO, : heat ADQSS ios (288. | ane, BOS 
 
 Dessert ditto and ditto 2... 2... sae cee nee eta i ak Sele alc ihe 
 MUP: GAEEULY 1 <deu susan bipse = ee DESEO RE CE eae DS fecp abet ee te 
 
 UTLERY WARRANTED.—The most varied As- 
 
 sortment of TABLE CUTLERY in the world, all warranted, 
 is on SALE at WILLIAM 8. BURTON’S, at prices that are 
 remunerative only because of the largeness of the sales. 34-inch 
 ivory-handled table knives, with high shoulders, 11s. per dozen ; 
 desserts to match, 10s.; if to balance, 1s. per dozen extra; carvers, 
 4s. per pair; larger sizes, from 14s. 6d. to 26s. per dozen; extra fine, 
 ivory, 32s.; if with silver ferrules, 37s. to 50s.; white bone table- 
 knives, 7s. 6d. per dozen; desserts, 5s. 6d.; carvers, 2s. 3d. per 
 pair; black horn table knives, 7s. 4d. per dozen; desserts, 6s.>, 
 carvers, 2s. 6d.; black wood-handled table-knives and forks, 6s. per- 
 dozen ; table steels, from 1s. each. The largest stock in existence. 
 of plated dessert knives and forks, in cases and otherwise, and of the 
 new plated fish carvers. Also a large assortment of Razors, Pen-- 
 knives, Scissors, &c., of the best quality. 
 
 WILLIAM 8. BURTON has TEN LARGE SHOW ROOMS: 
 (all communicating), exclusive of the Shop, devoted solely to the: 
 show of GENERAL FURNISHING TRONMONGERY, (includ-- 
 ing Cutlery, Nickel Silver, Plated and Japanned Wares, Tron and 
 Brass Bedsteads), so arranged and classified that purchasers may 
 easily and at once make their selections. 
 
 Catalogues, with Engravings, sent (per post) free, The money 
 returned for every article not approved of. 
 
 39, OXFORD-STREET (corner of Newman-street), Nos. 1, 2, 
 and 3, NEWMAN-STREET, and 4 and 5, PERRY’S- PLACE. 
 Established A.D, 1820. ait 
 
 5 
 
eat SOC ee 
 
 et hh oe ae a 
 
 ~~ ee a Se ae © oe 
 
 GROSSE AND BLACKWELL, 
 PURVEYORS IN ORDINARY TO HER MAJESTY, 
 
 ESPECTFULLY invite attention to the following — 
 
 “i. RICH SAUCES and CONDIMENTS, which with the various — 
 other delicacies they have for many years enjoyed so high a preference — 
 for, can be obtained of most respectable Sauce Vendors and Italian — 
 Warehousemen in the United Kingdom, and at the principal Stores — 
 throughout the world. 
 
 Royal Table Sauce, 
 
 A new Sauce, of a peculiarly delicious and piquant flavour, first — 
 
 introduced in 1847. It has received universal commendation from — 
 
 ‘the best judges, and is in very general use at the tables of the © 
 
 nobility, and the principal clubs. To those who prefer a rich warm 
 
 sauce, it may be confidently recommended as the best ever yet pro- — 
 duced. Sold in bottles, at 1s. 6d. and 2s. 6d. each; and in hand- 
 
 - some China vases, to be placed on the table, at 3s. each. 
 
 ‘Soho Sauce, 
 
 The flattering reception this Sauce has met with from the most dis- 
 tinguished epicures, warrants the proprietors in recommending it as — 
 the best of its kind extant. Itis composed of a variety of ingredients, 
 
 _ which are all so thoroughly amalgamated that, while its piquancy is 
 extraordinary, no decided flayour can be said to predominate. For 
 ' fish, game, steaks, and made dishes, this is a most desirable sauce. 
 
 Essence of Anchovies. 
 
 To produce this well known and justly esteemed Sauce, C. and B. — 
 use none but the finest picked Gorgona Anchovies, of which they 
 annually import large supplies for this express purpose. It is neces- 
 sary to state this, as the fact is notorious that much of the sauce 
 vended under this name is made from Sardines, and an inferior de- — 
 
 ‘scription of Sicilian fish, against which purchasers cannot be too — 
 strictly on their guard, ; 
 6 
 
 . a 
 
b. Agoa 
 
 ae 
 
 CROSSE AND BLACKWELL (continued). 
 Dinmore’s Essence of Shrimps. 
 
 This Sauce is used for the same purposes as the Essence of 
 
 _ Anchovies, but being considerably milder, is preferred by many. It 
 
 is prepared by C. and B. at their special factory on the sea-coast, and 
 
 _ the true flavour of the shrimp being retained, the Sauce is rendered 
 most delicious. 
 
 It is an excellent relish with boiled:and fried fish of every descrip- 
 tion. eis 
 
 Sir Robert Peel’s Sauce, 
 
 FOR GENERAL PURPOSES. 
 
 - Each bottle is labelled with a fac-simile of the Right Honourable 
 Baronets letter of approval. 
 
 Strasbourg Potted Meats. 
 
 This delicious preparation far surpasses every description of Potted 
 Meat yet introduced to public notice ; the flavour is full and rich, at 
 the same time being so mild and bland, that the most delicate and 
 fastidious palate is pleased. It is also very easy of digestion, and 
 adapted to weak stomachs. 
 
 Calves’ Feet Jellies. 
 
 _ Consisting of Orange, Lemon, Noyau, Punch, Madeira, and Calf’s 
 Foot. These are sold in convenient sized bottles, and their use is 
 attended with a great saving of trouble and inconvenience ; besides 
 which, they ensure the certainty of the Jelly always being of uniform 
 excellence and flavour. 
 
 They are now in almost daily consumption in many families, and 
 are very highly approved. . 
 
 Pickles 
 
 OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS. 
 
 The superiority of these is too well-known and appreciated to need 
 any remark, 
 
 Fruits 
 IN BOTTLES. 
 
 Preserved pure for Tarts ; available when fresh fruits are not in 
 season, 
 7 
 
CROSSE AND BLACKWELL (continued). 
 
 Syrups 
 
 OF VARIOUS KINDS, FOR FLAVOURING ICES; 
 
 Or which, if diluted with iced or spring water, produce a cool and . 
 
 refreshing beverage. 
 
 “€. and B. are also agents for the following, made by Monsieur 4 
 
 *OYER :— 
 
 f Soyer’s Aromatic ‘Mustard.’ 
 
 A most exquisite combination of the genuine Mustard seed with 
 
 warious aromatic substances: infinitely superior to all other prepara- 
 tions of Mustard. . 
 
 Soyer’s New Sauces. 
 
 “One of a mild description for the aes and another of the gait ; 
 
 @avour, but warmer, for gentlemen. 
 
 Soyer’s Relish. - 
 ‘With reference to this. Sauce, the Observer remarks :— 
 
 “M. Soyer is a culinary artist as profound as he is versatile; 
 mothing comes amiss to him. No foreign cwisinier ever tickled the 
 Saxon palate so successfully. He is a great man; and the ill-cooked 
 wautton chops that lost Napoleon the battle of Leipsic, would have 
 produced a very different effect if Soyer had dished them up in his 
 
 Magic Stove, and rendered them thoroughly light and digestible by - 
 
 dis appetizing Relish.’ 
 ©. and B. consider it important to state, that the whole of their 
 
 moanufactures are prepared with the most scrupulous attention to — 
 
 «cleanliness and purity. The utmost, precaution is taken in every in- — 
 
 stance to prevent contact with copper, or any other pernicious metal ; 
 
 cand to ensure this end, they have at a great expense fitted their fac- — Q 
 
 tory at Soho Square with a number of Earthenware Steam-pans, and 
 
 dm addition have had a large Silver pan made, in which to prepare — 
 
 tthe most delicate of their productions, 
 
 WHOLESALE WAREHOUSE— 
 _2h SOHO SQUARE, LONDON. 
 
LATE 
 WOODMAN, 
 
 OPPOSITE THE 
 Pusiic BUILDINGS, 
 
 INLAND REVENUE OFFICE, 
 WOOD STREET, WAKEFIELD. 
 
 CONDUCTED BY 
 
 GEORGE WARRINER. 
 
 Dinners, Sours, STEAKS, CHOPS, ETC., AT ANY-HouR oF THE Day, 
 
 Commercial Gentlemen will find every comfort and attention 
 they can desire. 
 Private Families supplied at moderate charges with the best Wines 
 and Spirits as used at the Hotel. 
 
 _ Stabling for Fifty Morses, Loose Boxes, and Lock-up 
 Coach Houses. 
 ~** Servants charged in the Bill. 
 N.B.—OMNIBUSES TO AND FROM EVERY TRAIN. 
 
 The, WAKEFIELD STHAK, mentioned at page 94, is cooked in perfec- 
 tion at this House. 
 
 How to Furnish a House and Make it a Home. 
 (See Wright’s Catalogue.) 
 
 86, BOAR LANE, LEEDS. 
 
 RIGHT has the best selected STOCK or STOVES, 
 
 suitable for Dining, Drawing, Breakfast, Study, and Todatats 
 Rooms, with Fenders and Fire Irons to correspond. 
 
 Wricur’s superior Shower Baths, Slipper, Leg, Hip, and Sponging 
 Baths, and Baths of every Description, comprising all recent Improve- 
 ments. Garden Rollers, Garden Engines, Horticultural Tools, Scythes, 
 Shears, Syringes, Garden Chairs, and every requisite in general for 
 the Garden or Pleasure Ground. French Moderator Lamps with fine 
 Oil. Brass and Iron Bepstraps. Tea and Coffee Urns, Percolators 
 and Machines of new and elegant Designs, combining all the recent 
 French‘and English Patents, Papier Maché Tea Trays and Waiters. 
 Table Cutlery, Plated Wares, Patent Dish Covers, and every Article 
 for the Kitchen. Iron Mantel Pieces of Chaste Patterns. Rain- 
 water Pipe and Spouting. 4 
 
 **% Every Article Sold on the most reasonable Terms. 
 Smith’s Work, Bell Hanging, & Wire Working, 
 In all their Branches, 
 FOREIGN MERCHANTS’ & EMIGRANTS’ ORDERS 
 Executed with Promptness, 
 See the Kitchen Grate in daily useat WRIGHT'S, Wholesale and Retail 
 Ironmongery Warehouse, 36, Boar Lane, Leeds. 
 
COFFEE. 
 
 TO HEADS OF FAMILIES, PROPRIETORS AND 
 DIRECTORS OF SCHOOLS, INFIRMARIES, 
 HOSPITALS, 
 
 AND OTHER PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS ; 
 Hotel-Keepers, Travellers, Captains in the Merchant 
 Service and of Emigrant Ships; 
 
 AND, ALL WHO ARE DESIROUS OF PROCURING 
 The Finest Quality of Coffee, 
 
 EITHER AS AN ARTICLE OF LUXURY OR FOR EVERY-DAY USE, 
 
 AND THE MOST COFFEE FOR THEIR MONEY; 
 
 WHITE, FAIRCHILD, & CO.’S 
 
 PATENT GENUINE CONCENTRATED 
 
 TURKEY COFFEE, 
 
 | AVING stood the test of many years’ trial, is now 
 confessedly the only Preparation, unadulterated, 
 
 which combines the rich oleaginous portion of the Coffee 
 berry along with its more solid particles. It is declared 
 by eminent Members of the Faculty, and others, to be the 
 most delicious in flavour—the most nutritive, comfort- 
 
 ing, and economical in its use,—of any Coffee ever sold. 
 10 
 
il Gicnrae ss 
 WHITE, FAIRCHILD, & Co. (continued.) 
 As a test of this statement, they offer a REWARD of 
 ONE THOUSAND POUNDS 
 _to any one who can discover the SLIGHTEST ADUL- 
 TERATION in their 
 , GENUINE PATENT 
 
 Concentrated Turkey Coffee. 
 
 The extraordinary success which has attended the in- 
 troduction of these justly celebrated Coffees, has raised a 
 host of clumsy imitators, who for the sake of immediate 
 gain, stick at nothing in the shape of Piracy and Fraud. 
 The Patentees’ labels and bills have been closely copied 
 and circulated to a great extent, and every effort made to 
 trap the unwary. 
 
 WHITE, FAIRCHILD, & CO., beg therefore to 
 caution the Public against purchasing Coffee otherwise 
 than of their respective A gents— 
 
 WHITE, FAIRCHILD, & CO., 
 Jsatentees, 
 BOROUGH, LONDON, 
 
 LICENSORS FOR ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, WALES, 
 THE CHANNEL ISLANDS, AND 
 THE COLONIES. 
 
 MANUFACTORY : 
 107, 108, 109, and 110, BOROUGH, cre cb aok 
 
DEAN E'S, 
 LONDON BRIDGE, 
 
 CUTLERY, IRONMONGERY, AND FURNISHING | 
 3 WAREHOUSE. FE 
 
 ESTABLISHED A.D. 1700. 
 
 DEANE’S TABLE CUTLERY 
 
 Has for more than 150 years received extensive and increasing public patr 
 age. The stock, comprising Ivory, Bone, Horn, and Stag Handles, sta 
 unrivalled in extent and variety ; the prices are the lowest, and the quality fy 
 
 the steel the very best. 
 Deane’s Monument Razors, and London Bridge Strops, are preferred et th 
 
 best judges to any other. Their Pen and Pocket Knives, 6d. each, and up 
 and Ladies’ Scissors of every description, are all of the finest quality, 
 
 12 
 
—_ 
 ke 
 
 k * DEANE, DRAY, AND Co., LONDON BRIDGE (continued.) 
 a ELECTRO- SILVERED DEANEAN PLATE. 
 
 This beautiful manufacture is celebrated for its peculiar purity and 
 silvery whiteness; and as asubstitute for silver (from which it cannot, 
 _ by any test, be distinguished), is unsurpassed. 
 DEAN E, DRAY, and CO. have always on sale Table and Dessert 
 Spoons and Forks, in all the newest and most approved silver 
 patterns; also Tea and Coffee Sets, Liqueur-stands, Cruets, Candle- 
 , sticks, Cake-baskets, and every article usually produced i in silver. 
 
 _.  DRAWING-ROOM STOVES. 
 
 A large and handsome collection of BRIGHT STOVES, for the 
 Drawing or Dining-room, embracing all the newest designs, is always 
 on SALE, in the Stove and Fender Department of Deane, Dray, and 
 Co,’s Establishment, They have applied to these and other classes of 
 Register Stoves patented improvements, economizing the consumption 
 | of fuel, for which the highest testimonials have been given. DEANE, 
 te DRAY, and CO. also invite attention to their improved COOKIN G 
 
 STOVE, adapted for Gentlemen’s Mansions and all large Establish- 
 ments, with Kitchen Ranges of the best construction. In FENDERS 
 and FIRE-IRONS they are constantly introducing every novelty, at 
 the lowest possible prices. 
 
 IRON BEDSTEADS & CHILDREN’S COTS. 
 
 DEANE, DRAY, and CO. manufacture and supply every descrip- 
 tion of IRON and BRASS BEDSTEADS, and have at all times a 
 large Stock of these Articles on hand, together with Beds, Mattresses, 
 Paillasses, &c. Priced Lists, with Drawings, sent, by post, free. 
 
 FAMILIES FURNISHING 
 
 May obtain, post free, on application, DEANE, DRAY, and CO.’S 
 GENERAL FURNISHING PRICE LIST, enumerating more 
 than 500 articles selected from the various departments of their 
 Establishment, requisite in fitting up a Family Residence, including 
 Table Cutlery, Electro-Plate, Lamps, Papier-maché Trays, Fenders 
 and. Fire-irons, Iron Bedsteads, Britannia Metal, Tin and Japan 
 ey Turnery, Brushes, Mats, &c. &c. 
 
 DEANE, DRAY, AND CO. 
 
 (OPENING TO THE MONUMENT,) 
 
 LONDON BRIDGE. 
 
EW EQUITABLE ASSURANCE COMPANY 
 
 (Incorporated by Act of Parliament, 7 and 8 Vic. cap, 110.) _ 
 
 CaPiTAL, £100,000. 
 
 ' TRUSTEES. 
 SIR JAMES DUKE, Bart. Ald. M.P. | SIR CHAS. HASTINGS, M.D., D.C.L. 
 WILLM. FERGUSSON, Esq. F.R.S. | GEORGE J. GUTHRIE, Esq. F.R.S. | 
 
 DIRECTORS. 
 
 SIR CHARLES HASTINGS, M.D., D.C.L., Chairman. 
 GEORGE BEAMAN, Esq., F.R.C.S., Deputy-Chairman, 
 
 George Chapman, Esq. | Samuel Richards, M.D. | Thomas Wakley, Esq. 
 T. Bevan Jones, Esq. John Crace Stevens, Esq. | H. Membury Wakley, Esq, 
 Samuel Highley, Esq. W. Tyler Smith, M.D. | John Weston, Esq. 
 
 CONSULTING PHYSICIANS. 
 Marshall Hall, M.D., F.R.S. |C.J.B. Williams, M.D., F.R.S.| W.TylerSmith,M.D, 
 CONSULTING SURGEONS, 
 
 Wm. Fergusson, Esq.F.R.S. | J. Ranald Martin, Esq. F.R.S. | S.Solly, Esq. F.R.S, 
 
 Surgeon and Medical Examiner—Thos. Wakley, Esq., F.R.C.S. . 
 
 Standing Cownsel—NSir Alexander Cockburn, M.P., Her Majesty’s 
 Attorney-General ; George Woodyatt Hastings, Esq. 
 
 Solicitors—Messrs. Bell, Steward, and Lloyd, 59, Lincoln’s-inn- 
 fields. . 
 
 WORCESTER CITY AND COUNTY BOARD, 
 Offices—Savings Bank, Worcester. 
 
 Directors—Sir Charles Hastings, M.D., D.C.L., Chairman of the 
 Metropolitan Board ; Jonas Malden, M.D., Senior Physician to the 
 Worcester General Infirmary ; J. W. Lea, Esq., Worcester. 
 Solicitor—Martin Curtler, Esq. | Agent and Seeretary—Thomas Weston, Esq. 
 
 Policies Indisputable. Mutual Assurance. Policies payable to 
 the assured themselves. All descriptions of Life Assurance business 
 transacted, and every facility given for payment of Premium. An- 
 nuities and Endowments granted. 
 
 No entrance fees, and all medical fees paid by the Directors. 
 
 Prospectuses, Forms for Proposals, and further information, may 
 be had at either Office, or of the Company’s agents. 
 
 H. MEMBURY WAKLEY, Resident Director. 
 JOHN THOMPSON, Secretary. 
 
 449, Strand, Charing-cross. 
 
 OGG’S DAGUERREAN PORTRAIT GALLERY, 
 H 432, WEST STRAND (five doors East of the Lowther Ar- 
 cade).—The above Gallery embraces a Collection of original Portraits 
 of eminent men. Glass Rooms adapted for the purpose are erected, 
 which give him many advantages over other operators generally. Mr. 
 Hogg begs to draw the attention of the public to the fact, that his re- 
 sources and long experience ensure the highest-class pictures, not to 
 be equalled in the Daguerrean art, while the arrangement of charges 
 places them within the reach of all, Every picture guaranteed per- 
 manent. Sunshine not required. 
 ScaLE OF Prices (including Frame or Morocco Case.) 
 
 First Size. | Second Size } Third Size. | Fourth Size. | Fifth Size. 
 Cee date fh = a Sater Age a et Fee Fen # 
 0 10 6 1 1 2® ae adi 
 
 0 16 0 110 0 
 14 PF 
 
 . 
 
 7 
 
 ¥ 
 
~GARDNER’S LAMPS 
 ARE THE BEST. 
 
 ‘EVERY TASTE MAY BE SUITED FOR BEAUTY 
 OF DESIGN AND LOWNESS OF PRICE. 
 
 THE PRIZE 
 - WAS AWARDED TO MESSRS. GARDNERS’ 
 
 AT THE 
 
 GREAT EXHIBITION, 1851. 
 
 BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT TO THE QUEEN. 
 
 LAMP AND CUT TABLE GLASS MANUFACTORY, 
 ESTABLISHED UPWARDS OF 100 YEARS, 
 
 453, WEST STRAND, 
 
 NEXT DOOR TO THE ‘‘GOLDEN CROSS,” AND 
 
 63, STRAND, 
 
 ADJOINING COUTTS BANK. 
 
 ‘MANUFACTORY—JAMES STREET, 
 
 GAS FITTED ON THE SHORTEST NOTICE. 
 
 Experienced Workmen sent to all parts of the Country. 
 15 
 
WORKS BY M. A. SOYER. 
 
 Price 1ds., the Sixth Edition of the 
 
 GASTRONOMIG REGENERATOR: 
 
 AN ENTIRELY NEW 
 
 SYSTEM OF COOKERY, 
 
 WITH NEARLY 
 
 TWO THOUSAND PRACTICAL RECEIPTS: 
 
 Illustrated with numerous Engravings, and correct and minute Plans 
 how Kitchens of every size, from the Kitchen of a Royal Palace to 
 that of the humble Cottage, are to be constructed and furnished. 
 
 THE THIRTIETH THOUSAND 
 OF 
 
 SOYER’S MODERN HOUSEWIFE, 
 
 AN ENTIRELY NEW, ENLARGED, AND 
 ILLUSTRATED EDITION, 
 Price 7s. 6d. 
 
 ‘¢ All who have food to cook should buy. this book.”—Morning 
 Chronecle. 
 
 Lately also Published, Price 1. 1s.. 
 
 THE PANTROPHEON; 
 
 OR, 
 
 HISTORY OF FOOD AND ITS PREPARATION 
 FROM THE EARLIEST AGES OF THE WORLD. 
 
 LONDON : 
 SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT, 
 16 
 
 ve 
 re 
 
 x 
 5 
 
: ‘a fhe Natural Wines of France. 
 CAMPBELL, 158, REGENT STREET, having 
 
 * just returned from Bordeaux, is happy to inform the Public, 
 
 that from the large purchases he has made there, he is enabled to 
 
 offer the above at his usual Prices. The best growths of Bordeaux 
 in J. C.’s Stock are those of Lafitte, Chateau Margaux, Latour, and 
 Haut Brion. He has, however, many excellent Wines of Medoc, 
 upon which fashion has not stamped an artificial value, namely, Vin 
 de Bordeaux, 28s.; St. Julien, 30s.; La Rose and Kirwan, 36s. per 
 dozen. In J. ©.’s selection of the White Wines of. Bordeaux some 
 peculiarities will be found, both as regards quality and price. The 
 Sauterne, with its fine almond flavour, such a favourite in France, 
 28s. per dozen; Vin de Grave, so much drank in Hamburgh, where 
 the climate is cooler and more humid than our own, also 28s. per 
 dozen, bottles and cases included. 
 
 - The Trade and Hotel-keepers requiring these Wines will do well 
 to call on 
 
 Nr. Campbell, 158, Regent Street, 
 to which address Country Orders, with Remittances or Town Refer- 
 ences, should be sent. : 
 
 _ N.B.—The beneficial use of these natural Wines to the Invalid is 
 proved by the daily recommendations from the faculty. 
 
 yy 
 SOYERS j SF, y LEMONADE, 
 3 y é <8 AND’ 
 NECTAR, / GINGER BEER. 
 
 Manufactory —112, HIGH HOLBORN. 
 
 Just published, dedicated to Sir Baldwin Wake Walker, K.C.B. 
 
 A VIEW OF THE FLEET AT ANCHOR. 
 FURL SAILS! AWAY ALOFT?! 
 
 Price in four printings ./.... .:'. £1 11° 6 
 Peereiproolonre 5) oils, Waikee ds wena) ey eh OD 
 ‘Proofs . saa 
 
 Size, 33 by 20. On Paper, ‘40 by 27, being 
 THE LARGEST MARINE SUBJECT EVER ENGRAVED. 
 London: ACKERMANN and Co., 96, Strand. 
 
 17 
 
SMITH & PHILLIPS, 
 GAS ENGINEERS AND PATENTEES 
 Apparatus for Heating, Cooking, 
 
 Ventilating by Gas, 
 
 55, SKINNER STREET, SNOW HILL, 
 And 5, WEST SMITHFIELD, 
 
 Havine invented and secured by Her Majesty’s Royal Letters 
 Patent the most valuable, economic, and useful Apparatus for 
 Heating, Cooking, and Ventilating by Gas, beg to invite the 
 Public to an inspection of the same, resting assured that every 
 prepossessed prejudice against the cleanliness, comfort, and eco- 
 nomy in the use of Gas, for the above-named purposes, will, after 
 a single inspection, cease to exist. 
 
 Sonifiny unsuccessful attempts having been made to form Heating 
 and Cooking Apparatus worthy the attention of Men of Science, 
 and the Culinary Art, and all these attempts having been lauded 
 by the Inventors (or rather imitators, for they have all imitated 
 the same defective system of construction) as being perfect, it 
 would be useless to theorize on the subject, and thereby leave the 
 Public in doubt, by permitting them to add this invention to the 
 list of wseless cooking and heating apparatus. ‘The Patentees 
 therefore invite the most. prejudiced and the most scientific portion 
 of the Public to have a practical proof, by seeing the apparatus in 
 action, feeling convinced that, as others have done, they will 
 return with a conviction of the positive utility of the invention, 
 and the truth of being able to cook and heat by Gas, without 
 producing any pernicious effects, and giving an immense economy 
 
 over the old systems of heating and cooking hitherto employed. 
 
 DESCRIPTION. 
 
 The apparatus Fig. 1, so highly appreciated by Mons. Soyer, (who cer- 
 tainly is eminently qualified to judge of the practical utility of this apparatus, 
 as being equally well adapted for the cooking of the varied French dishes, 
 as for the more substantial English ones,) is acknowledged, by the best 
 judges in gas matters, to stand unrivalled. 
 
 1t is a boon, alike to the consumers and makers of gas; to the former in 
 economizing the quantity burnt; and to the latter, by creating a means of a 
 general daily consumption, instead of a partial use, and thereby compen- 
 Sating, in a great measure, by an increased demand, the reduction recently 
 made in, that important article. In this apparatus it should be understood 
 that the burner under the boiler is so conveniently arranged, that it can be 
 turned gut for the purpose of lighting; thus precluding the possibility of 
 explosion ever taking place,-an inconvenience to which all previous gas 
 apparatus for cooking are liable. This system is evidently of the utmost 
 importance, as a meansof preventing accidents, and also gives an opportunity, 
 if necessary, of cleaning the burner with great facility. In fact, the whole 
 of theapparatus is truly simple and convenient, possessing the advantages of 
 i{NG; STEAMING, BOILING, BAKING, BROILING, FRYING, STEWING, &ce., with 
 inty of PERFECT VENTILATION and CoMBUSTION, and a CLEANLINESS 
 IBLE to.all-who have only seen defective cooking apparatus. All this 
 ied on with an astonishing certainty and regularity; the heat operating 
 ig 
 
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 DONIC EI We EON RNTH NLA NT HBS AN BANU ANE AN 
 
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 Sameaes Him UNIV iaN\VOMNIV Tayi mise Waa VAAL. aa, 
 
 equally on every portion of the meat, all chance of burning is avoided, and 
 its nutritious qualities are preserved; add to this the great advantage of 
 being able to retard the serving of a dinner by regulating the cock of the 
 burner, so as to allow only a sufficiency of heat to keep the meat warm. 
 The meat withdrawn from the apparatus, the fire is at. once extinct, and the 
 expense ceases. These are the advantages which it is impossible to obtain 
 from any coal fire without incurring an enormous expense, and-have been 
 Sufficient to cause the above-named gentleman (Mons. Soyer) to report that 
 the cooking apparatus manufactured by SMITH & PHILLIPS is the onty 
 PERFECT ONE IN USE, and SUCH ONLY WITH WHICH HE WOULD ALLOW HIS 
 NAME TO BE CONNECTED ; added to which, it has undergone, during several 
 months, most scrutinizing and severe trials, the result of which has elicited 
 the flattering encémiums and approbation from the most scientific men and 
 gas engineers of the present day. The Price of this apparatus, £2 
 plete. If without Boiler and Steam Kettle, £18. v3 eae 
 _ PRoprigtors or Cius-Housss, Inns, and Eatine-Houses are'partreularly 
 invited to see the apparatus in operation, which takes placesdaily at the 
 Patentee’s Show Rooms, No. 55, Skinner-street, where its value canske fully 
 appreciated, and proof given that it requires only to be seen in°gimen’ to >, 
 promote its general adoption. : . 
 
 Ae PN S|) Oe ere 
 
 6 com- 
 
—————— 
 ——————— 
 ————$————— 
 
 ——————S 
 
 i 
 
 Fig. 2.—A most convenient apparatus, capable of Roasting, 
 Baking, and Boiling at the same time; and when in use for 
 Boiling purposes, Broiling or Toasting can be performed in the 
 most perfect manner. Ironing is also performed in the most 
 cleanly manner by this simple apparatus. Price complete, with 
 a variety of necessary Culinary Articles, £4 458, SMITH AND 
 - Pures, Patentees. . 
 
 4c 
 
 “20 
 
 y, ah, 
 
eC. ee ee ee ae ee ey ene iP ae Pee 
 
 ‘Messrs. Smith and Phillips. 
 
 SOYER’S CELEBRATED ROASTER. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 r i - 
 
 Manufactory : 
 5, WEST STREET, SMITHFIELD. 
 isuxroo’w sous 
 
 ean sl 
 Puree | | 
 
 a 
 
 Fig. 3.—A most economic Roaster, highly appreciated and 
 patronized by Mons. Soyer; and, in justice to that great master 
 of the Culinary Art, bears hisname. Price £1153. SmivHanp~ 
 Pures, Patentees, Box 
 
 "ITIH AAONS ‘LEZULS MANNIWS ‘99 
 
 Fig. 14. —A Small Apparatus for Boiling Purposes. Price 8s. 
 
 21 .: ei an 
 
 po EET SS So Se oo ST ee RRA See i LEI ENE UU TERS AT or EY 2 VE yt 
 
en ae 
 
 Gas Cooking Apparatus. 
 
 Fig. 9.—A Gas fisiwing Stove, same as placed on -top of 
 Fig. 2, With this ‘apparatus all the Cooking stated to be per. 
 formed by Fig. 2 can be performed, eoere Roasting and Baking. 
 
 Price £1 and £1 5s. 
 Fig. 8. 
 
 | 
 ; 
 Hi 
 
 HUT ASAUEERNULULCUTTVECN LETTE 
 
 . Hl a dl 
 
 Fig. 8.—A Gas Gridiron, the value of which may be estimated 
 by the hundreds now in use. Frice £1 10s. If with an Oven 
 attached, £223. | 
 
 Fig. 9. Fig. Ws: +, 
 
 Fig. 9.—A Small Stove, suitable for Heating Italian and Flat 
 Irons, Tinmen and Plumbers’ Soldering Irons ; at the same time 
 it can also be applied for any Boiling Purpose. Price 21s, and 
 16s. 
 
 Fig. 10. A Useful and Ornamental Apparatus for Mulling 
 Wine, Beer, &c, Price according to Pattern. 
 
 22 
 
THE TOILET AND HOUSEHOLD SOAPS 
 
 FGROUX’S IMPROVED SOAP COMPANY, 
 102, NEW BOND STREET, & 17, BILLITER STREET, CITY. 
 
 USED BY THE ROYAL HOUSEHOLD 
 AND MOST OF THE NOBILITY AND GENTRY. 
 
 These valuable Soaps are strongly. recommended by Erasmus Wilson, Esq., 
 F.R.S., in his celebrated Work: on the Skin. (See page 61.) 
 
 HOUSEHOLD SOAP. rae A 
 0 
 
 Ss. 
 The YELLOW or WHITE CLEANSING . . in 14lb. Packages 7 
 WHITE and YELLOW CLEANSING TABLETS, ai in 
 half cwt. cases, including cases, at percwt. . . . 914 Weare 
 Or half cwt. case delivered free to ay, part of gelpet upon receipt 
 EP. Ootor 6 es Pa oie ea » 32 
 This soap, for ‘all Household purposes,’ * requires 10 soa0 in oe 
 and it is remarkable for preserving even the finest textures, at the same 
 time reviving (without running) the brightest colours, It washes 
 equally well in hard water. 
 
 po) 
 
 i) 
 
 The SPERMACETI NAVY SOAP for Sea Water. . . perlb. 0 8 
 WHITE CURDin Bars . .. PNP ie ae’ 0 8 
 DITTO in Tablets and Searited . ; = , per doz. 2 O° 
 
 N.B. The above Soaps vary in price according to the market value of 
 
 Tallow. 
 TOILET SOAPS. 
 
 The TURTLE OIL, per Box containing Three Turtles 1s.6d.and 2 6 
 This Soap was mentioned by E. Wilson, Esq., F.R.S., in his recent Work 
 on the Skin, as the Best may: for the Toilet yet brought under his notice. 
 ane TUnRTIa GIL TABDNT’. «4 «6 5 +s. Gach 6d. and 
 The CASTOR OILin Bars,at. ... ising! PET Di 
 DITTO Ty Dablets: 0 ee per doz. : 3s., 3s. 6d., and 
 The ORANGE and LEMON SOAP .. . . per box 2s. 6d. and 
 The EINWAND SG@APSs'65. + ag <a ers per Dax 
 Containing Two of the most emollient Tablets of oan and one ‘Packet of 
 superfine Violet Powder. 
 The LADIES’ TABLET. . 48) oa ie oe Oeea Ge. Bnd!) es 
 The MEDICATED HERB SOAP. st . . at per packet 1 
 The CHINESE SOAP in a Box containing 12 Tablets of the finest 
 Soap . were Mga aeiae 3 
 The NAVY TOILET SOAP ae sn? heroics » per box 1 
 Manufactured for the use of the Officers in i. M. Ro al Navy, being the 
 only Toilet Soap yet introduced for washing in Cold Sea and Fresh 
 Water; it is admirably adapted for Sea Bathing. 
 OLD BROWN and WHITE WINDSOR .. .. per lb. 1s. and 
 VIRGIN HONEY... . . . . per doz. Tablets 2s., 3s., and 
 ALMOND. . : ditto 8s., 8s. 6d., and 
 The COMPANY'S TABLET SOAP . ditto aoe ee ane ; 
 Stamped with the seal of the Company. None but the finest plea 
 tured Soaps are issued with this stamp. 
 GROUX’S SHAVING SOAP in Shaving Pots Is. CREAM ditto. 1 6 
 
 miko Ore pe 
 nwonweo 
 
 conor) 
 
 m > Oe 
 eoon 
 
 Those who are not already aware of the superiority of 
 Groux’s Cleansing Soap over the ordinary Yellow and 
 Niottled Soap, will oblige by perusing some of the Tes- 
 a which will induce most Famiilies to oe a. 
 tr 
 
jig) msi Nagel 
 
 Tinea 
 (i= 
 
 | NICOLI’S REGISTERED PALETOT. 
 
 ; i Many have assumed the use of the word Paletot, but the Patentees of the 
 design and material used in this inexpensive and gentlemanly article of dress are 
 ‘Messrs. NICOLL, Merchant Clothiers, Paletot Patentees, and Manufacturers — 
 of Cloth, who have agents in every Pr incipal Town in the United Kingdom ~ 
 ind its Colonies. Their London Addresses are as follow :— 
 
 ‘} No. 114, REGENT-STREET, forms a Department for Paletots, &c. 
 
 | No. 116 (the next house), is devoted for Military and Diplomatic Uniforms. | 
 No. 118, for Robes and every novel or established article of costume. 
 
 ' No. 120, is exclusively for Boys’ and Youths’ Clothing, Servants’ Liveries, 
 xc., of unusual excellence, and at 22, CORNHILL. 
 
 : | | Specimens of all may be seen, ai 
 
 | In each Department skilful and intelligent Assistants attend, and the ad- 
 nitted fact, ‘“‘That an article to be really cheap should be really onde! is 
 
 tactically sustained. 
 
 }) P= du & a. NICOLL, 
 
 / 114, 116, 118, 120, REGENT STREET, anp 22, CORNHILL. 
 i 24 
 
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