PUGIN STUDENTSHIP DRAWINGS Two Hundred Copies printed, of which this is No.7. PUGIN STUDENTSHIP DRAWINGS being a selection from Sketches, Measured Drawings, and Details of Domestic and Ecclesiastical Buildings in England and Scotland Drawn while Pugin Travelling Student of the Royal Institute of British Architects in 1878, together with a number of the Drawings for which the Studentship of that year was awarded. By G. WASHINGTON BROWNE ARCHITECT DAVID DOUGLAS, EDINBURGH MDCCCLXXXVII Printed and Photo-lithographed by GEORGE WATERSTON & SONS, EDINBURGH. Lichtdruck Plates by ALBERT FRISCH, BERLIN, THE GETTY CENTER LIBRARY To the PRESIDENT and COUNCIL of the ROYAL INSTITUTE of BRITISH ARCHITECTS, this Volume 1s respectfully dedicated by permission, as an acknowledgment of the stimulus and encouragement which the Author received as a Student from the Institute. PREF AGE, HE original Drawings and Sketches, reproduced in this Volume, were prepared some ten years ago, simply as Student's work, with no other object in view than that of gaining a personal acquaintance with some of the best examples of Ecclesiastical Architecture of the Medieval Age and the Domestic Architecture of a later period both in England and in Scotland. At the suggestion of some friends, to whose opinion and advice I attach great weight, I lately made a selection from among those Drawings and Sketches for which the Pugin Travelling Studentship was awarded by the Council of the Royal Institute of British Architects in January 1878, and from among those which I pre- pared while travelling in Scotland as Pugin Student; and that selection I have arranged for publication in the present form. The originals are partly pen and ink drawings and partly pencil. The former are reproduced by Photo-lithography, and the latter by the German process called Lichtdruck. As both processes are purely mechanical, the plates throughout the work are fac-similes of the original drawings, so far as mechanical printing can be a fac-simile of hand work. The introduction of any descriptive Letterpress was not at first contemplated ; but there has been added a few descriptive and historical notes upon each subject illustrated, which may assist non-professional readers in associating the various phases of architecture with their respective dates and periods. The time occupied in compiling this information, together with the fact that the whole work of preparing for the press has been carried on during fragmentary periods of scanty leisure, has occasioned considerable delay in the production of the volume. For this I must specially crave the indulgence of my earlier Subscribers. From the nature of its origin the work does not pretend in any sense to re- present the systematic development of the phases of architecture illustrated; but the author is not without hope that these gleanings from his Student work may contribute a little towards fostering that interest in and regard for our venerable architectural remains, which is now becoming so widespread and so generally felt. G. WASHINGTON BROWNE. Epinsurcu, March 1887. INDEX TO THE PieAiEe © a oO wo ct oO a ate 21. ate 22. ST ANDREWS CATHEDRAL—Chapter House, &c. Py Door from Vestibule of Chapter House to Cloister. ‘ Bay of South Aisle. ST ANDREWS—COLLEGIATE CHURCH—General View and Detail of Porch. ( Ks THE PIENDS: | GLASGOW CATHEDRAL—South Porch to Crypt. { ARBROATH ABBEY—South Transept. DUNKELD CATHEDRAL—Sedilia. AYRSHIRE—ROWALLAN CASTLE. BENFLEET, ESSEX—PORCH TO CHURCH—Plan and Elevation. ” 0 Sections. BRAY, BERKSHIRE—MANOR HOUSE OF OCKWELLS—Plans and Sketches. es ‘ Principal Elevation. A i Section through Great Hall, &c. COVENTRY—FORD’S HOSPITAL—Interior of Court. DRYBURGH ABBEY—ST MARY’S AISLE—Plans and Mouldings. FF Re Interior Elevation. a0 3 Exterior Elevation. i Ay Details of Carving. | MELROSE ABBEY—Details of Carving. DUNBLANE CATHEDRAL—Sketch of Stalls. a sy Sketch of West End. a Detail of West Window. * Bi Bay of Nave, South Side. DUNFERMLINE ABBEY—Two Bays of North Aisle. TUN IDB 1) Wiest iss U ic} 12) U U Ple Pl: ate 28. ate 29. ate 30. ate 31. ate 32. EDINBURGH—ST GILES’ CATHEDRAL—Sketch of Tower. FALKLAND PALACE—Sketch of South Front. FELMERSHAM, BEDS—CHURCH OF ST MARY—Plans, Elevation and Section. Elevation, Sections and Sketch. ” ” 3 F Detail of West End. iy Pf Interior Details. Pe i Section of Mouldings, &c. FLOOR TILES—Various. ( GLAMIS CASTLE—General Sketch. | o 5B Sketch of Turrets. ee ae CATHEDRAL—Sketch of West End. . i Sketch of North Transept. - Ss Detail of West Doorway. Sketch of South Transept, Interior. HEREFORD—SHRINE OF BISHOP CANTILUPE. : BUMCHERS (HALE. ” AUBREY’S ALMSHOUSES. HEXHAM ABBEY—Bay of North Transept. rs Bs Clerestory of Choir. | 55 5 Lavatory in Cloister HOLBORN—CHAPEL OF ST ETHELDREDA—West Window. ie 3 Windows and Arcade of Side Walls. if ra . Mouldings. | SALISBURY CATHEDRAL—CLOISTER—Mouldings. TRONWORK—Various. KILWINNING ABBEY—Door from Cloister to South Aisle. \ ei ie Arcade in South Transept. MELROSE ABBEY—Windows in Choir and South Aisle. A es Window in Clerestory, South Transept. JEDBURGH ABBEY—Window in South Aisle of Choir. oe IDMAR CASTLE—Plans and Internal Details. a - Sketches from North-East and South-West. HONE ID OC IPO) AN Iet is IP IL, AN TE 18 Si. Plate 48. Plate 49. Plate 50. ate 51. U U ate 54. U U U U U ate 65. Plate 66. U p =a oO ~y ° | ate 52. Plate 53. | Plate 55. ate 56. Plate 57. Plate 58. late 59. ate 60. | Plate 61. Plate 62. ate 63. ate 64. NEW ABBEY or SWEETHEART—Pilan. ” i Longitudinal Section. on 3 Transverse Section and East Elevation. nf y North Elevation. sii # Detail of Windows, North Side of Choir. RS “ Detail of Windows, South Side of Choir. s Detail of East Window of Choir and Clerestory of Nave | D a Detail of Doors, &c. ii < Mouldings of Nave Arcade, &c. . Mouldings of Doors and Windows. NEWARK CASTLE, RENFREWSHIRE—Plans. Pe North Elevation. © South Elevation and Section. Bh “5 West Elevation and Section. NORTHFLEET—CHURCH OF ST BOTOLPH—Chancel Screen. PAISLEY ABBEY—Sketch of West Front. FF Bs Bay of South Aisle of Nave. if * s Detail of Sedilia. \ LINLITHGOW CHURCH—Detail of West Doorway. em IN ABBEY PRECINCTS. AYRSHIRE—KELBURNE CASTLE. Ie osauaveenenee IN GILESGATE. SALISBURY CATHEDRAL—Bay of Cloisters. SHREWSBURY—HOUSE IN BUTCHER ROW—Elevations. a 5 Details. i TINTERN ABBEY—Door from Cloister to North Aisle. l % Py Windows in Refectory. WESTMINSTER ABBEY—BAY OF SACRARIUM—Key Elevation and Mouldings. » a Lower Stage Enlarged. Upper Stages Enlarged. ” » Mouldings. WORCESTER—TIMBER HOUSE, FRIAR STREET. DESCRIPTIVE ann HISTORICAL NOTES. ST ANDREWS CATHEDRAL. Plates 1-3. RADITION claims for the first religious house at St Andrews the date of a.p. 347. The oe to whom the erection of the see has generally been ascribed is Hungus, son of Urgust, who reigned from 821 to 833; but according to the Irish annalists it was founded at least a century before that time. The primacy of the Scots was transferred from Dunkeld to St Andrews in the early years of the tenth century. The see was erected into an archbishopric by a bull of Pope Sixtus IV. in 1471 or 1472. The archbishops were included with the king in the oath of allegiance, and took precedence next after the Royal Family, and before all Scottish noblemen whatever. The Cathedral buildings, the ruins of which now remain, were begun by Bishop Arnold a.p. 1159, but were not finished till the time of Bishop Lamberton in 1318, the work having been carried on by even successive bishops. During its progress, in 1276, the eastern end was greatly injured by a violent (ol tempest; and in 1378, only sixty years after completion, the roof of the choir and transepts, and part of the great central tower, were destroyed by fire. The restoration was begun at once by Bishop William Landel (1341-85), and completed in the time of Bishop Henry Wardlaw (1404-40). In 1559 the building was overthrown by the Reformers, who were instigated to the work of destruction by the fiery eloquence of John Knox; and only the east gable, part of the west front, the wall of the south aisle, the west wall of the south transept, the remains of the Chapter House, &c., shown on Plate 1, and the bases of the piers, are left of what was doubtless one of the finest buildings in Scotland. The church was cruciform in plan, both choir and nave having aisles, with aisles or chapels on the east side of the transepts. The doorway and arcade, shown on Plate 2, are of the transition period from Norman to Early English, and are the oldest parts of the building remaining; the windows of the south aisle (Plate 3) are much later, and are kept so high above the floor to clear the roof of the cloisters of the Priory or Augustinian Monastery, founded a.p. 1144, which stood immediately to the south of the Cathedral. The Piends:(Plate 5) was one of the Gateways in the magnificent wall, about a mile in extent, which enclosed the precincts of the Priory, built in 1516-20 by Prior John Hepburn. ST ANDREWS—COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF 8S. SALVATOR. Plate 4. HIS Collegiate Church was founded in the year 1458 by James Kennedy, Bishop of St Andrews, who, dying on 10th May 1466, was interred under a magnificent tomb within the Church. These Collegiate Churches—of which there were thirty-three in Scotland—were instituted for the performance of divine service, and singing of masses for the souls of the founders and patrons and their friends. I ST ANDREWS.—THE PIENDS. GLASGOW—S. PORCH TO CRYPT OF CATHEDRAL. Plate 5. See Notes to Plates 1-3. and 32-34. ARBROATH or ABERBROTHOCK ABBEY. Plate 6. HIS Abbey was founded by King William the Lion a.p. 1178, and consecrated to the memory of i ear a Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury. The monks were of the order of Tyronensis, and were brought from Kelso, the first house of the order in Scotland. The monastery at Arbroath became exceedingly wealthy, and the church was large and magnificent. Only fragments now remain, of which the portion of the south transept, shown on Plate 6, belongs to the thirteenth century. DUNKELD CATHEDRAL. Plate 6. MONASTERY of Culdees is said to have been established here in honour of St Columba about the A year A.D. 729. In 849 the Primacy was translated from Iona to Dunkeld, the relics of St Columba being similarly moved for safer keeping. The Danes devastated the place in go7, and thereafter the Primacy was transferred to St Andrews. In the reign of Alexander I. the Diocesan See of Dunkeld was erected, St Andrews retaining the Primacy. The nave and aisles are roofless. The choir is rendered unsightly by the gallery of the Parish Church, a stair to which runs across the finely moulded sedilia. ROWALLAN CASTLE, AYRSHIRE. Plate 7. OWALLAN CASTLE is situated in the Parish of Kilmarnock, about three miles to the north R: the town of that name. A portion of the house dates from a.p. 1562, but part is older, and is reputed to have been the birthplace of Elizabeth More or Mure, first wife of Robert II., which would take the date of it back to the middle of the fourteenth century. Mungo Mure, who succeeded to the estate in 1513, and his son John, who succeeded him in 1547, both did much in rebuilding and enlarging the old fortalice. The southern part, shewn in Plate 7, was built by the latter, according to the inscription on the tablet in the gable between the circular towers which flank the staircase: “JON * MUR’ M-CUGM-SPUSES-1562.” On the right are the family arms, and on the left those of his wife’s family. The Castle forms three sides of a hollow square, the fourth side being enclosed by a wall. The level of the courtyard is much higher than the approach to the Castle, hence the necessity for the flight of steps seen in the sketch, and which, with its flanking towers, forms a most striking feature in the composition. There are some interesting remains of woodwork preserved in the interior. This house was the residence of Sir William Mure (1594-1657), author, among other works, of a metrical version of the Psalms, which, under the name of ‘“ Rowallan’s Psalter,” was held in high esteem among the Reformers. From the religious meetings which took place in his time, part of the house still bears the name of the “ Auld Kirk.” CHURCH OF S. MARY, SO. BENFLEET. Plates 8-9. ENFLEET, or Bemfleet as it was anciently spelt, was a frequent landing place of the Danes, Bee they secured a footing and built a fort, from which they were driven out and defeated by Alfred the Great, a.p. 894. The church is dedicated to S. Mary, and is of very ancient foundation, there being traces of Norman work in the Tower, which is surmounted by a tall wooden spire. The Porch illustrated in Plates 8 and g is a characteristic example of the fifteenth century wooden porches, so common in the churches of the south-eastern counties. MANOR HOUSE OF OCKWELLS, BRAY, BERKSHIRE. Plates 10-12. HIS picturesque Manor House is situated close by the small river Ock, about two miles from the town of Bray. It is believed to have been built in the time of Henry VI. (1422-1461), from the fact of antelopes having been used as supporters of the Royal Arms in one of the hall windows, which was only the case in that reign; but the Manor was originally granted to Richard de Norreys, the cook of Queen Eleanor, wife of Henry III., in 1267, whose descendants remained there till 1786. The old Hall formerly contained a very curious series of stained glass windows, in which the Norreys’ arms were frequently repeated, with the motto ‘“ Feythfully serve.” FORD’S HOSPITAL, COVENTRY. Pie 03. HIS most interesting and beautiful example of timber construction, sometimes called Grey Friars A ee was erected about A.p. 1529. It was founded by William Ford, a merchant stapler in Coventry, under his will dated 1509, for five men and one woman; but the endowment was considerably enlarged by his executor, William Pilsford, by whom the Hospital was erected, so that it might accommodate six poor men and their wives, “being nigh to the age of threescore years or above, and such as were of good name and fame, and had been of good honesty, and kept household within the said city.” There are now thirty-seven aged women recipients of this charity, seventeen of whom are inmates of the Hospital, where they have a room each, and two nurses are kept there to attend to their wants. rhe building has a frontage to Grey Friars Lane of 4o feet, and is about 75 feet deep from front to back. In the centre of the block is the open court, shewn on Plate 13, measuring 4o feet long and 12 feet wide. Round this court the apartments of the inmates are grouped, and from it they are entered and partly lighted. At either end is a wide passage, that at one end giving access from the street, and that at the other leading to a garden behind. The building remains almost entirely in its original condition, and notwithstanding the extreme delicacy of the work is in excellent preservation. The elaborate traceried heads of the windows throughout are cut out of a thin piece of wood, and the glazing runs up square behind the tracery. The timber framing averages about 4 inches in thickness, the plaster filling in being flush on both sides. The whole of the external timber work is now coated every two or three years with boiled oil. 3 DRYBURGH ABBEY. Plates 14-17. HIS famous Abbey was founded a.p. 1150 by Hugh de Morville, Lord of Lauderdale and Constable Cie Scotland, and his wife Beatrice de Beauchamp, upon a site said to have been occupied by a convent so early as the sixth century. It was colonised by Premonstratensians, or White Canons, from Alnwick on 13th December 1152. The church is cruciform in plan; and the portion illustrated, known as St Mary’s Aisle, forms a north aisle to the choir and the chapels usual upon the east side of the transept. Sir Walter Scott and his wife are buried under the floor of this aisle. The other portions of the church still standing are the west wall of the nave, the south aisle wall, and the south transept gable. The conventual buildings are better preserved than usual in Scotland, the Chapter House, Abbot's Parlour, and other apartments (including part of the Library), remaining in good condition. The beautiful processional door leading from the north-east corner of the cloisters to the south aisle of the church belongs to the first Transitional period, and forms part of the twelfth century building. St Mary’s Aisle is an excellent example of the Early English period, and would be built in the thirteenth century, though there is no record of any building operations during this period in the fragmentary history of the monastery. The nave was early decorated, being rebuilt under Robert L., after its destruction by the retreating army of Edward II. in 1322. The building was again burnt by the English in 1544. The bowl of the font, shown on Plate 17, is of very early date, and lies in the Cloister Garth. DUNBLANE CATHEDRAL. Plates 18-21. ERE are no muniments or records of the foundation of this See; but historical evidence supports the belief that it was erected or restored under King David I., to the date of whose reign the Norman work of the lower part of the tower may be attributed. The Earls of Stratherne are credited with = the foundation and endowment of the church, which was dedicated to St Blane, said to have been born in Bute, where there is a small Norman Chapel bearing his name, and to have been Superior of a Culdee Convent at Dunblane in the time of Kenneth III. The nave and aisles are perhaps the most beautiful example in Scotland of the exquisite proportion and simple detail of that period of Gothic architecture known as Early English, and were probably built during the episcopate of Clement, Bishop of Dunblane, about the middle of the thirteenth century. There are no transepts. The choir is much later than the nave, and is now used as the Parish Church. The elaborately carved stalls are among the few specimens of ecclesiastical woodwork preserved in Scotland. DUNFERMLINE ABBEY. Plate 22. HIS Abbey was founded by Malcolm Canmore about 1070-74, and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It was at first governed bya Prior. In 1124 King David I., who had added considerably to the endowments of his father’s foundation, introduced thirteen Benedictine Monks from Canterbury, and nominated Galfridus Abbot, who was consecrated in 1128. The dignity of a mitre was conferred upon the 4 Abbot in 1244 by Pope Innocent IV. About the same time the Abbey was found to be too small for the due and convenient performance of the worship, rites, and processions, in consequence of the increase in the number of the monks, and of so many tombs, altars, &c., which had from time to time been erected within it. A choir and Lady Chapel were consequently added to the east of the old nave, and were opened with great pomp in 1250. This portion of the church, as well as the greater part of the monastic buildings, were destroyed by the Reformers on 28th March 1560; and an ugly Parish Church was erected upon the site of the choir and transepts about 1820. The few remains of the Lady Chapel are sufficient to show that the thirteenth century work was rich and refined in detail, while the nave and aisles display the sturdy and massive Norman of the time of Malcolm Canmore. The three-light window in the eastern of the two bays of the north aisle shown on Plate 22, was probably inserted after the burning of the monastery on the retirement of the army of Edward I. in 1304. Within the walls of the Abbey Church were interred the remains of eight Kings, five Queens, seven Princes, and two Princesses of Scotland; but their tombs were destroyed when the choir, &c., was over- thrown in 1560. EDINBURGH.—ST GILES’ CATHEDRAL. Plate 23. HIS foundation was originally a Parish Church, authentic evidence of which goes back to the early Sete of the twelfth century: it was erected into a Collegiate Church by the charter of King James III. in the year 1466. The Episcopal See of Edinburgh was erected by King Charles I. in 1633, so that St Giles enjoyed the dignity of a Cathedral only for about half-a-century. The church is cruciform in plan. Both the nave and choir have aisles; also chapels beyond the aisles on the north and south sides of the nave, and on the south side of the choir. No part of the architecture of the present building indicates an earlier date than the fourteenth century. The tower illustrated on Plate 23 rises over the intersection of the transepts with the nave and choir; the portion of the lantern or crown above the parapet was rebuilt in 1648, upon the model of the original which had fallen into decay. This type of tower appears to be peculiar to North Britain, the other remaining examples being St Nicholas, Newcastle; King’s College Chapel, Aberdeen; and the Tolbooth, Glasgow. Similar tops crowned the towers of Haddington and Linlithgow churches, but have now fallen or been demolished. FALKLAND PALACE. Plate 24. T an early period the Earls of Fife had a residence here called the Castle of Falkland, but not & vestige of that building in which the first three Jameses occasionally resided now remains. It is impossible to ascertain with certainty whether James III. or James IV. began to build the Palace, as both of these monarchs were fond of Architecture, and both employed workmen at Falkland. The south front of the Palace, shown in Plate 24, is the work of one or other of these Kings, and is the oldest part of the building. The great circular Towers flanking the entrance to the courtyard is a striking and effective architectural treatment, and affords at the same time a favourable means of defence. James V. made great additions to the Palace, which as completed by him formed three sides of a square, the fourth side being enclosed by a lofty wall; all that now remains beyond the south block is the court- yard wall of the east wing. Queen Mary of Guise frequently resided here, as did also her son, James VI. It was from this Palace that the King was lured to Perth by the Gowrie conspirators. 3 CHURCH OF S. MARY, FELMERSHAM, BEDS. Plates 25-29. | *ELMERSHAM is mentioned in Doomsday Book as Fa meresham. The Church, dedicated to S. Mary, is cruciform in plan, with slightly projecting transepts, long narrow chancel, and nave with aisles four bays long. The west front is an interesting example of Early English, being well composed, and richly moulded; the arcade over the doorway, carried on clusters of delicate detached shafts, is an effective and unusual feature. T he elliptical head to the large window is also unusual, but not so admirable. It is at present filled with tracery of a late character, but I have drawn up the mullions and arches from the reprisals worked upon the old cill, a treatment which agrees with the design of the beautiful two-light window in the south transept. The original pitch of the Nave roof is clearly marked by the water table on the Tower, and, judging from some fragments of clustered shafts in the interior, the original clerestory would seem to have been of unusual magnificence. The Tower was evidently intended to be the late decorated period its place was taken by the upper stag an embattled parapet. finished with a broach spire, but during e of the square tower, and finished with The very fine rood screen dividing the chancel from the body of the church (shown on Plate 28), is of late date, and still retains much of its old colouring. FLOOR TILES. Plate 30. ee TILES, made of burnt brick with a gla zed enamelled surface, were in general use in the floors of ecclesiastical buildings from the thirteenth century. They are usually in two colours, the design in yellow on a red ground being the most common. The designs are extremly varied and beautiful, and as shown by those illustrated on Plate 30, are frequently of symbolic form. GLAMIS CASTLE. Plate 31. ke *RADITION claims for this Castle an antiquity of a thousand y rs, and the massive walls of the central tower or keep, round which the later buildings now seen group so grandly, undoubtedly prove its great antiquity. Sir James Dalrymple refers to it as one of the residences of King Malcolm II. (1003-1033), though, according to Skene, we have no authentic history of Glamis before the year 1264. The main portion of the building is the work of the seventeenth century. The panels in the window heads of the gable seen in the sketch bear date 1606, while the Great Hall is dated 1621, The vaulted ceiling of this hall is beautifully enriched with plaster panels containing arms, crests, and other ornaments in relief, and is attributed, though without reason, to Inigo Jones. Considerable additions 6 were made by Patrick, first Earl of Strathmore, in the latter half of the seventeenth century, and towards the end of the eighteenth century the outer defensive walls of the courtyard were swept away and the approaches modernised. “The later chroniclers,” says Skene, “state that Malcolm II. was slain by treachery at Glamis; but this tale is quite inconsistent with the early notices of his death, which clearly imply that he died a natural death.” The Castle is the seat of the Earl of Strathmore, the whole lands and thanedom of Glamis having been granted to his ancestor Sir John Lyon by a charter under the Great Seal, dated 13th March 1372. GLASGOW CATHEDRAL. Plates 32-34. CHURCH is said to have been founded by St Ninian, in the beginning of the fifth century, in the place where the Cathedral now stands. About the middle of the sixth century St Kentigern or Mungo founded a Cathedral on the same site, where, it is recorded, he was visited by St Columba a.p. 584, when the saints interchanged their pastoral staves. St Mungo died about a.p, 612, and the records of the See of Glasgow disappear for full five hundred years. It was restored by David, then Prince of Cumbria, who appointed his tutor and chaplain John (commonly called Achaius) the first of the new line of bishops. He erected a new Cathedral, partly of stone, which was consecrated on 7th July 1136, and burnt in 1192, during the bishopric of Joceline, formerly Abbot of the Cistercian Monastery of Melrose. Joceline at once set himself to the task of rearing a new and more substantial edifice with so much energy and success, that in 1197 the present magnificent crypt—the finest and largest in Britain—known by his name was finished and consecrated on the octave of St Peter and St Paul. Joceline died two years after, and his immediate successors seem to have done little towards the completion of the building. In 1232 William de Bondington succeeded to the bishopric; and in his time (a.p. 1232-58) the choir was either altogether or almost finished. The transepts and nave were probably completed within a century afterwards. The tower, as high as the battlements, was built during the bishopric of William Lauder, 1408-25; the spire was added by his successor, John Cameron, called “The Magnificent,” 1425-46. In 1488 a bull was obtained from Pope Alexander VI. erecting the See of Glasgow into an Arch- bishopric, and the erection was confirmed by Act of Parliament. Its suffragans were the Bishops of Dunkeld, Dunblane, Galloway and Argyll. This Cathedral is the only important ecclesiastical building in the mainland of Scotland which escaped the general demolition at the Reformation. It was saved from the hands of the mob which had assembled to destroy it by the craftsmen of the Incorporated Trades of the city, who surrounded the building, and threatened instant death to all who should harm it. It is still in a most complete and perfect condition, and is des ribed by Mr Britton, the celebrated antiquarian, as “a most unique, interesting, and beautiful specimen of Christian architecture.” The transepts do not project beyond the aisles of the nave and choir—see Plate 32—which also shows the curious tracery of the choir aisle windows and the massive buttresses of the west front. For the porch to Bishop Joceline’s Crypt, see Plate 5. TB 15, IR 1B, 1B ©) IR ID, Plates 35-36. “~ HRINE or BisHop Canti_ure.—The Cathedral of Hereford is said to contain more monuments of S Bishops and Deans than any other in England, though many have been destroyed and others much mutilated. The most interesting of those which remain is the Tomb or rather the Shrine of Thomas de Cantilupe, Bishop of Hereford from 1275 to 1282. He was of noble birth, and held the high office of Chan- cellor, both of the University of Oxford and of England. Though represented by historians as of the greatest sanctity he had many troubles to contend with, and during a pilgrimage to Rome, whither he had gone to seek the Pope’s assistance, he was seized with sickness and died at Civita Vecchia on 25th August 1282. He was the last Englishman canonized by the Church of Rome. His body was divided into three parts ; the flesh was deposited in a church near Florence, the heart at Ashridge in Buckinghamshire, and the bones in the Lady Chapel of Hereford Cathedral. About five years after his death they were removed from there and enshrined in the tomb illustrated on Plate 35, a beautiful example of the delicate moulding and spirited sculpture which characterised the early decorated period of Gothic architecture. It is constructed of Purbeck marble, and had formerly on the top of the pedestal under the canopy an effigy of the prelate in brass, which was lost or destroyed during the Civil Wars. Burcuers’ Hati.—This ancient building known as “Old House,” stands in what is now an open space at the east end of High Town. It was erected in 1621 as the Butchers’ Guild Hall, and was one of a range of similarly constructed buildings called Butchers’ Row, from the trade pursued by most of its inhabitants. The others were demolished in 1837; but this one was preserved as being the best example of the architecture of the group. Auprey’s ALmMsHouses.—Among the characteristics which mark the antiquity of the city of Hereford, its numerous charities occupy a prominent place; they number no fewer than 110, and comprise almshouses, schools, and bequests of various descriptions. The almshouses illustrated on Plate 36 are situated in Berrington Street, formerly called Plow Lane, and still more anciently Wroughthall. In 1636, Mrs Mary Price bequeathed the sum of £200 to be disposed of in erecting upon this site, which she had formerly purchased, six tenements as an hospital for the residence of as many poor women. They are popularly called ‘“ Aubrey’s Almshouses,” the administration of the bequest having passed by marriage into the hands of that family in the latter part of the eighteenth century. HEXHAM ABBEY. Plates 37-38. HE town of Hexham is of great antiquity, and various Roman remains have been found within and a. it. The first reliable record we have of it is that Queen Etheldreda, daughter of Ina, King of the East Angles, gave this town, with the lands about it, to St Wilfred, Bishop of York, about the year A.D. 674, to be honoured by an Episcopal See. He accordingly founded a church there in honour of St Andrew the Apostle, which was among the first stone churches in England, and for excellence of architecture is said to have excelled all the others. This building was destroyed by the Danes in the ninth century, and no part of it now remains. ‘This bishopric ceased on the death of Tidferth, a.p. 821, when the Bishops of Durham obtained episcopal jurisdiction here; but King Henry I. (A.p. 1100-35) annexed it to the Arch- bishopric of York, and Thomas, Archbishop of that See, with the advice and consent of his Chapter, in the year 1113, placed Canons regular of St Augustine here, giving them the church, with all its appurten- ances, and Aschetill of Huntingdon was appointed the first Prior. 8 The present church was probably built in the beginning of the following century: the nave was razed by the Scots when they destroyed the town, A.p. 1296, and has not been rebuilt. The choir and transepts remain complete: the choir has aisles on both sides, and the transepts aisles or chapels on their east side, all groined in stone. The bay from the west side of the north transept is very peculiar, the short pillars and the high stilted arches being almost unique. The clerestory of the choir is very fine. The arcade, which probably formed part of the Cloister Lavatory, belongs to the middle of the thirteenth century, and is a beautiful specimen of decorated work, ELY CHAPEL, HOLBORN. Plate Plates 39-41. HIS beautiful specimen of early decorated Gothic, erected by Bishop De Luda between 1290 and 1300, was formerly the private chapel attached to the London Palace of the Bishops of Ely, and was dedicated to St Etheldreda. Etheldreda was a daughter of Anna, King of the East Angles, and though twice married, she pre- served her virginity in fulfilment of an early vow, and ultimately persuaded her second husband, Eyfrid, King of Northumbria, to permit her to retire to a nunnery. She received the veil in the Abbey of Coldingham, and founded a monastery at Ely, A.p. 673, of which she was the first Abbess. Being canonised after her death for the purity and devotedness of her life, she was chosen as the patron saint of the monastery, and her shrine stood in the centre of the Presbytery of Ely Cathedral. The Episcopal buildings at Holborn were demolished at the latter end of the eighteenth century, and the chapel, though saved from that fate, fell into neglect and decay. In 1874 it was sold under an order of the Court of Chancery, and purchased for the Fathers of Charity, by whom it has been carefully restored. The building is a small parallelogram about 80 feet long by 30 feet wide, and has a crypt below it of equal dimensions. The side walls are divided into seven bays of the beautiful and delicate arcading shown on Plate 40; while the east and west gables have large and elaborate traceried windows. The west window is shown on Plate 39; the east window is similar in character, but slightly different in detail. WROUGHT IRONWORK. Plate 42. HIS Plate gives a few scattered examples of the spirited Wrought Ironwork prevalent in clgeees during the latter part of the seventeenth, and the beginning of the eighteenth centuries, before the work of the blacksmith ceased to be an art. The portion of a grille from Winchester Cathedral is of much earlier date, probably twelfth century. It is considered by some authorities to be the oldest piece of grille work in England. It originally stood at the head of the stone steps which lead from the South Transept to the Ambulatory of the Choir, its purpose being to prevent the crowds of pilgrims who came to worship at the Shrine of St Swithin from penetrating farther into the Cathedral. KILWINNING ABBEY. Plate 43. HE Abbey of Kilwinning is said to have been founded a.p. 1140 by Hugh de Morville, Constable of eee who was likewise the founder of Dryburgh Abbey. It was dedicated to St Ninian, whom tradition describes as an Irish prince, who retired here with some followers in the seventh century, and built a humble monastery on the site occupied by the later Abbey. The monks were Benedictines of the order called Tyronensis, from Tyron, their mother-house in the Diocese of Chartres, France, who were brought from Kelso, the first foundation of this order in Scotland. Only a few fragmentary ruins remain—part of the west end with the piers and arches of one of the flanking towers, the south transept gable and arcade, south aisle wall, and a portion of the Chapter House ; but these are sufficient to show that it was once a magnificent building, beautiful alike and Slype in proportion and detail, and similar in plan to New Abbey or Sweetheart (see Plate 48). MELROSE ABBEY. Plates 44-45 and 17. RELIGIOUS foundation at Old Melrose, two miles lower down the Tweed than the present building ie known to have existed from early in the seventh century. The Abbey of New Melrose was founded a.p. 1136, by King David I., was consecrated in 1146, and like all Cistercian foundations was dedicated to St Mary. The monks were brought from Rievaux in Yorkshire, and were the first Cistercians who came into Scotland. The abbey was richly endowed, acquired great importance, became the head of its order in Scotland, and many other Cistercian foundations were colonized by monks from Melrose. The original buildings were destroyed by the army of Edward II., during the retreat in 1322, but were rebuilt and greatly enriched by King Robert the Bruce, whose heart is buried in the choir. The abbey was also burnt by the army of Richard II. in 1385, and again in 1544 by the Earl of Hertford. No part of the conventual buildings remain, but the fourteenth century church is fairly complete though for the most part roofless. The plan is cruciform; the choir has north and south aisles, the transepts chapels on the east side. The nave is very long, extending to not less than eight bays, with north and south aisles; and beyond the south aisle a series of chapels corresponding in number and width with the bays of the nave arcade. The cloisters are upon the north side of the nave, contrary to custom, but this doubtless arises from the conventual buildings being placed between the church and the river. The earlier foundation of David I. having been completely destroyed in 1322, the style of the present building, fourteenth and fifteenth century, is later and much more ornate than usual with Abbey Churches in Scotland, the tracery and carvings being exquisitely rich and delicate. At the foundation of their order the Cistercians adopted very rigid rules enforcing the utmost simplicity in the architecture of their buildings; but Melrose affords a notable example of the laxity with which these rules were observed when the order had acquired wealth and affluence. 10 JEDBURGH ABBEY. Plate 45. HE Monastery at Jedburgh was founded a.p. 1118 by King David I. for Canons regular of St Augustine, who were brought from Beauvais. It was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary; and though at first only a Priory, it was made an Abbey about the middle of the twelfth century, and had two cells or priories belonging to it Canonby in Roxburghshire, and Restennot near Forfar. The latter was surrounded by a lake, and here all the papers and precious things belonging to Jedburgh were carefully kept. The choir is chiefly Norman in style, of a massive type; the nave is a particularly fine example of First Transition, and is nine bays long. The window illustrated from south aisle of the choir was probably built along with the repairs which followed the burning of the Abbey during the English wars of 1297— 1300, when the Monastery was plundered, and the Canons reduced to extreme destitution. The buildings sustained frequent injury in the subsequent wars, especially at the storming of Jedburgh by the Earl of Surrey in 1523, when the Abbey held out against the English for a whole day, and in 1544, when it was laid in ruins by the army of the Earl of Hertford. The walls of the choir, nave, and north transept remain; but the Chapter House, cloisters, and monastic buildings are swept away. MIDMAR CASTLE. Plates 46-47. LL that part of Aberdeenshire which lies between the Dee and the Don is called Mar, from the pte word Marr, signifying a black forest, and the parish in which this Castle stands, and from which it takes its name, is from its central position called Midmar. Though situated in a district richer in baronial remains than any other in Scotland, Midmar Castle has no special historic association beyond its position upon the north side of the Hill of Fare, the scene of the defeat and death of the Earl of Huntly, which terminated his unsuccessful rising against Queen Mary. There are no records of its erection or enlargement, but it is said by tradition to have been founded by Sir William Wallace, when Governor of Scotland, as a hunting seat for his friend Sir Thomas Longavale. From the proceedings of Parliament for the year 1368 Midmar appears to have been the property of a family named Broune; and we know that a George Broune, grandson of the Laird of Midmar, became Bishop of Dunkeld in 1484. The ownership and the name of the Castle have changed frequently, and it is now the property of the Gordons of Cluny. The relative antiquity of the various parts of the building is shown by the hatching of the walls in the plans given on Plate 46, but it would be difficult to assign a specific date to any portion of it. NEW ABBEY OR SWEETHEART. Plates 48-57. HIS Abbey, situated about seven miles south from the town of Dumfries, was founded by Dervorgilla, daughter of Alan, Lord of Galloway, and wife of John Baliol. The date of erection as given by Fordun is 1275; but Spottiswoode says that the first Abbot was Henry, who died on his II journey to Citeaux in the year 1219. ‘Tradition points to a lake, about a mile distant from the present building, as being the site of an earlier Abbey, which had to be abandoned on account of the rising water, in consequence of which the New Abbey was built. The apparently contradictory statements of Fordun and Spottiswoode may thus be reconciled. The architecture of the present building is certainly not earlier than the date given by Fordun. Andrew Winton, Prior of Loch Leven, informs us, that on the death of her husband, Lady Dervorgilla caused take out his heart, and spice and embalm it, and putting it in a box of ivory bound with silver and enamelled, closed it solemnly in the walls of the church near to the high altar: from whence it had the name of Sweetheart. Like all Cistercian foundations, it was dedicated to the Virgin. There are none of the monastic buildings left, but the walls of the church are nearly complete. The plan is a typical one, consisting of nave and aisles, projecting transepts with chapels on the east side, and choir without aisles. The aisles and chapels were vaulted in stone, and the roof of nave, choir, and transepts were of wood. It is an excellent example of early decorated Gothic, the tracery windows in the choir being particularly fine. The change in the design of the clerestory windows shown on the north elevation marks a partial rebuilding, probably after a fire. There are but few historical events connected with this Abbey, or with those who presided over it. NEWARK CASTLE. Plates 58-61. HIS Castle, built as a place of residence rather than a fortified stronghold, stands within a few feet C3 of the water’s edge, on the southern bank of the river Clyde, near its mouth, within the county of Renfrew and parish of Port-Glasgow. The plan forms three sides of a square, the fourth side being open towards the south, thereby admitting light and sunshine to the court and the principal apartments, from the northern windows of which an unrestricted view of the Firth of Clyde is secured. The oldest portions of the Castle are the two blocks forming the southern extremities of the eastern and western wings, which were probably built in the second half of the fifteenth century by George Maxwell of Newark. The later portion, forming by far the larger and most important part of the building, was built at the close of the sixteenth century by Patrick Maxwell, whose monogram, P. M. interlaced, is cut in panels in the window- heads, and also in the tympanum of the entrance door. Here also is carved the legend, “The Blissingis of God be heirin,” and the date 1597. The panel in the westmost dormer of the river front bears the date 1599. At the same time the window openings of the south-east tower were enlarged, and the upper part of it rebuilt. The Castle belongs to Sir Michael Robert Shaw-Stewart, Bart., and is in a good state of preservation, though it has not been occupied by its owners since the beginning of the eighteenth century. CHURCH OF S. BOTOLPH, NORTHFLEET. Plate 62. HIS is perhaps the largest and most interesting Church in the diocese of Rochester. There is much uncertainty ‘about its precise date, which probably goes back to the twelfth century, and is supposed to have been built upon the site of an earlier church, as it is known that Northfleet had a church at the Conquest. It is mentioned in Doomsday Book as Norfluet, and is noticed in the taxation 12 of Pope Nicholas IV., about A.D. 1291, which is conclusive evidence of the existence there of a church or chapel at that period. The chancel screen illustrated on Plate 62 is an exquisite example of early decorated woodwork. It has in the centre an arched doorway, and on each side seven compartments with arched heads cusped and traceried, springing from circular shafts with moulded caps, bases, and annulets. There are few important examples of the woodwork of this period preserved in Britain. PAISLEY ABBEY. Plates 63-65. HE Monastery of Paisley was founded by Walter, son of Alan, Stewart of Scotland, about 1163, and ae was the most important monastic erection of the reign of Malcolm IV. It was at first only a Priory, and was colonised by monks of the Cluniac Order of reformed Benedictines, who were brought from Wenlock in Shropshire, the county from which Walter sprang. By a bull dated at Reate, in 1219, Pope Honorius III. granted the monks the privilege of electing an Abbot; but the dignity of an Abbey was not confirmed to the house by the Abbot of Clugny—the mother-house of the Order—until 1245. The additional honour of mitre and ring was conferred by papal bull in 1334 on Abbot John and his successors. The ° hurch was dedicated to St James, the patron saint of the Stewarts; St Milburga, the patron saint of Wenlock ; and St Mirin, the patron saint of Paisley. The name of the English saint disappears from the charters of the Abbey after the War of Independence. The church was cruciform in plan; the nave six bays long, with aisles; the choir very long, but without aisles; the transepts had no aisles or chapels on the east side, but the chapel of St Mirin occupies the extremity of the south transept. The choir and transepts are roofless; but the nave is in excellent condition, and is used as the Parish Church. The Monastery was burned by the English in 1307: the door and window shown on Plate 64 form part of the building which survived the disaster, as they are of thirteenth century date. The sedilia (Plate 65) is close by, if not in, its original position, and belongs probably to the end of the fourteenth or beginning of the fifteenth century. No part of the conventual buildings remain. The houses shown on Plate 66 stand in the precincts of the Abbey, but are of post-Reformation date. CHURCH OF S. MICHAEL, LINLITHGOW. Plate 65. HERE was a church here dedicated to S. Michael as early as the reign of David I. ie The present building is one of the most important ancient parochial churches existing in Scotland. A considerable portion of it probably dates from the time of James III., but many additions and alterations were made in the time of James V., between 1528 and 1536. The doorway illustrated is in the base of the western tower, the top of which was finished with an open crown, after the manner of S. Giles Edinburgh (see Plate 23); but this was taken down in 1821, as by its weight it was thought to endanger the entire structure. 13 OLD BUILDINGS IN ABBEY PRECINCTS, PAISLEY. Plate 66. HESE buildings stand immediately to the south of the old abbey refectory, but had no connection 1 ith the monastic foundation, being of post-Reformation date. They formed part of the mansion house known as “The Place of Paisley,” erected, probably, by the Lords of Dundonald about the middle of the seventeenth century. In 1781 the surrounding abbey grounds were feued out; the mansion house was at the same time dismantled, and let to small tenants of the class who still inhabit it. KELBURNE CASTLE. Plate 66. 7 ELBURNE CASTLE, one of the seats of the Earl of Glasgow, is situated in Largs parish, Ayrshire, within half a mile of the Firth of Clyde. Originally a square Tower, it has been added to at various dates, and affords a characteristic example of the simple composition and effective grouping which give a charm to so many of the less important Scottish Castles. OLD HOUSE, HEXHAM. Plate 66. There is no trustworthy information to be obtained either from local records or other sources regarding this picturesque street house in Gilesgate. Its date is 1638. CLOISTER, SALISBURY CATHEDRAL. Plate 67. Z ‘HE first establishment of this See was at Sherbourne, Dorsetshire, a.p. 705. In 1056 the See was removed to Old Sarum, and within sixty years it was once more removed to Salisbury. The present Cathedral Church was founded by Bishop Richard Poore, a.p. 1220, the fifth year of the reign of Henry III. The Choir was sufficiently advanced to be consecrated for Divine Service on Michaelmas Day 1225, and the work being vigorously prosecuted by successive bishops was completed and dedicated during the prelacy of Bishop Giles of Bridport, on 30th September 1258. The Cloister is supposed to have been the work of that prelate. It is the largest and perhaps the finest in Britain. It is on the south side of the Cathedral, and has the peculiarity that there is a space some 40 feet wide between its north walk and the south aisle of the nave. The sections of the tracery are shown upon Plate 41. 14 FIFTEENTH CENTURY HOUSE, SHREWSBURY. Plates 68-69. HE exact date and original purpose of this building are unknown, and various conjectures have gl been made, connecting it with one or other of the Ecclesiastical foundations of the town. Such a connection seems to me unlikely, the design and arrangement of the ground floor being obviously for the purposes of trade. This idea is strengthened by the situation of the building in Butcher Row, a name frequently met with in the old quarters of English towns, in common with others of similar designation, such as The Shambles, Fish Street, Butter Market, etc. The street floor is specially interesting from its rich and varied detail; while the massive angle post is moulded and panelled on the first floor as yround floor, a treatment common enough on the Continent, but not frequently found well as on the g in England. TINTERN ABBEY. Plate 70. F all the religious orders, the Cistercians were the most distinguished for their taste in selecting Cy situations for their houses; and of this taste the site of Tintern on the banks of the Wye, in Monmouthshire, affords a striking example. The Abbey was founded a.p. 1131 by Walter de Clare according to some writers, but, according to Dugdale, by Walter Fitz Richard, Lord of Caerwent, and dedicated, according to the Cistercian custom, to St Mary. Roger de Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, is said to have built the present church, in which the first mass was celebrated at the high altar of the choir in October 1268. At this period it is believed only the choir was finished: it was not unusual to construct and consecrate the choir first, and then proceed to complete the remaining parts of the church. The Refectory, the windows of which are shown, was probably built at the same time as the choir, and the processional door from the cloisters before the end of the same century. The cloisters and monastic buildings, which are usually upon the south side of the church, are here upon the north, that being the side next the river. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. Plates 71-74. RADITION points to a church dedicated to St Peter having occupied the site of the present Abbey Church, or one in the immediate neighbourhood, as early as a.p. 616; and there is no reason to doubt that a Benedictine Church and Monastery stood a few yards west from the present building in the time of St Dunstan (about 960). It is certain that a church in the Norman style of architecture—the first of the kind in England—was built on the present site by Edward the Confessor, and dedicated to St Peter a few days before the death of the sainted King (28th December 1065). In honour of his memory, King Henry III. demolished the eastern portion of the Norman church, leaving the greater part of the nave standing, and reared the choir and transepts of the present beautiful fabric, to receive the body and shrine of the Confessor. The new building, of which the bay of Sacrarium, illustrated on Plates 71-74, forms > a part, was opened for service A.p. 1269. It is the loftiest church in England, and one of the noblest 15 examples of thirteenth century work in the country. It bears distinct evidence of Continental influence both in its proportions and detail. The rebuilding of the nave was continued principally by Edward L., Richard II., and Henry V.: the western towers, to Sir Christopher Wren’s design, were not completed till about 1740. The nave is twelve bays long; the transepts have aisles on both east and west sides ; the choir is apsidal ended, and is surrounded by an ambulatory and chapels, while at the extreme east end is the gorgeous building known as Henry VII.’s Chapel. WORCESTER—TIMBER HOUSE. Plate 75. HIS fine half-timbered house stands in Friar Street, within the parish of S. Martin, Worcester. Sie the time of making my sketch I was informed it was the old Council Hall, but I have been unable to verify this statement from enquiries more recently made in well-informed quarters, nor have I been able to learn anything of its date or history, except that the title-deeds as far back as 1658 are still preserved. GEORGE WATERSTON & Sons, PRINTERS, EDINBURGH. oe sew, Cau Jaye, your, “Ca PIVH ' e 4 ovarasie [OR pay. fillieell aoe ge papwlp Gaul : o--hasponouy — peagenn, ee LESSS S KS Ownalaiwa - Y Onda Jamel late 5 3) i igs) 7 e: Sy Sy SSNS | 3 Thos 5 fein y J | way t Sopa qi few yy r BK ~ Sate oor | | Plate 8. 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