ol Sa Pulse ae ee y oo) ed VUNELED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR HUBERT WORK, Secretary NATIONAL PARK SERVICE STEPHEN T. MATHER, Drrecror Je UR NATIONAL PARKS PORTFOLIO BY ROBERT STERLING YARD FORMERLY EDITOR, NATIONAL PARK SERVICE FIFTH EDITION REVISED BY ISABELLE F. STORY EDITOR, NATIONAL PARK SERVICE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE WASHINGTON 1928 NOTE TO FIFTH EDITION. HE first edition of the National Parks Portfolio, which numbered 275,000 copies, was issued by the Department of the Interior in ae June, 1916. The second edition, brought up to date by the sub- stitution of later photographs and enlarged by the addition of thirty-six pages, was one of the first publications of the new National Park Service which Congress created August 25, 1916. The third edition, published in 1921, contained twenty-two additional pages of pictures. The fourth edition, issued in 1925, contained information regarding ten new national monuments created after the publication of the third edition, including three new pictures. This, the fifth edition, is a thorough revision of previous issues, both in text and illustrations. In all, ninety-two new pictures have been used. This revision was made necessary by the many changes that have occurred in the national park system during the past twelve years, and by the changing styles, which made obsolete many of the pictures with a human-interest note. Acknowledgments are due to the many photographers, professional and amateur, who contributed some of the best examples of their work to this Portfolio; to the United States Geological Survey for assistance and hearty cooperation; to many helpful individuals; and to seventeen western railroads, whose contribution of forty-three thousand dollars made possible the preparation and publication of the first edition. THE Epiror. FOR SALE BY SUPERINTENDENT OF DOCUMENTS GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, WASHINGTON, D. C. Book BOUND, IN CLOTH)? of-sil eles) Lee tec aes tie a anise eee One DoLiaR (2) GNECED: STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR HUBERT WORK, Secretary NATIONAL PARK SERVICE STEPHEN T. MATHER, Direcror INTRODUCTION AN’S ingenuity has led him into many diverse lines of thought. One of the most remarkable products of his mathematical mind was the discovery of the chronological cycles: These cycles are based on the recurrence of the same astronomical event after the lapse of a regular period of years. They cause us to realize that our universe is laid out according to a definite plan and help establish our faith and respect for the Architect. _ The history of the United States has been a human struggle to subdue the wilderness. After a century and a half civilized communities have sprung up on every hand. Great masses of population have congested themselves in cities. We have established an artificial life dependent on the indoors until now to complete the cycle we are turning back to the simpler pleasures found in the woods in contact with nature. There is no action without reaction. With this returning cycle our people are being drawn from the convenience of modern homes, which it has taken so long to design and build, to the more natural surroundings of the outdoors. Twelve years ago the Federal Government took cognizance of this move- ment to commune with nature through the creation of the National Park Service in the Department of the Interior, which was placed in complete con- trol of scenic and recreational areas on the public domain and reserved for the benefit of the people. ‘The first step necessary in the development of a national park system was the preservation of the primeval beauty of the parks and monuments and at the same time the provision of accommodations for the hundreds of thousands of visitors. Roads were built to the scenic points of interest and trails were constructed to outlying sections of wilderness without marring the landscape. Hotels and camps were also provided by public oper- ators under contract with the Government. Free public camp grounds were built for the use of the motorists. This program has resulted in a unified park system. (3) The National Park Service, however, did not confine itself exclusively to providing outdoor recreation for the American people. Its functions became also educational in character. Many of the national parks and monuments are natural laboratories for the study of science. No better examples of glacia- tion, erosion, and other metaphysical reactions may be found anywhere, and every facility is offered to scientists to obtain knowledge for educational pur- poses. The flora and fauna are preserved for the biologists and botanists, while the archeologists and ethnologists are enabled to study prehistoric people in the ruined homes and cliff dwellings contained in the national parks and > monuments. Field trips conducted by nature guides competent to explain every subject of natural history along the trailside have been arranged through the educa- tion branch of the bureau under the direction of a chief naturalist. Camp-fire lectures on birds, geology, or any other phases of nature exemplified in the parks are also given for the benefit of the visitors. Museums have also been established containing collections of materials of educational interest. Other educational facilities are offered through field courses in the various branches of natural history offered by the Park Service in cooperation with universities and other institutions. The national parks are playing a prominent réle in our national life. They are giving the people a glimpse of the simpler things of life and are increasing our appreciation and understanding of nature. They are providing educational opportunities that otherwise would not exist. And finally they are bringing us closer to the scheme of creation and educating our children “through nature up to nature’s God.”’ HUBERT WORK, Secretary of the Interior. (4) PRESENTATION HIS Nation is richer in natural scenery of the first order than any T other nation; but it is only recently that our people have begun to realize this fact. In its national parks it owns the most inspiring playgrounds and the best equipped natural schools in the world; and these are an economic asset of incalculable value. When the first edition of this Portfolio was issued in 1916 comparatively few people were aware that the country possessed this empire of grandeur and beauty; and still fewer realized the economic value of our scenery. Individual features of several of our national parks were known the world over, but few to whom the Yosemite Valley was a household word knew that its seven wonderful miles were a part of a scenic wonderland of eleven hundred square miles called the Yosemite National Park. So with the Yellowstone; all had heard of its geysers, but few indeed of its thirty-three hundred square miles of wilderness beauty. Some of the finest of our national parks pictured in this Portfolio had never been heard of by many. The Seqwioia National Park, a hundred miles south of the Yosemite, one of the noblest scenic areas in the world, is the home of thousands of sequoia trees over ten feet in diameter, the celebrated Big Trees of California; but even its name was known to few. Crater Lake National Park, which incloses a marvelous deep blue lake surrounded by walls of fretted lavas of indescribable beauty, was probably one of the least known of all. In that year, 1916, only 356,097 people visited the national parks. Since then, however, the visiting list has steadily mounted higher and higher, until in the 1927 travel year 2,354,643 visitors saw the national parks. In addition to the park travel the national monuments last year drew 443,197 visitors. The main object of this Portfolio is to present to the people of our country a panorama of our national parks and national monuments, set aside for study and comparison. Each park will be found highly individual, with distinct characteristics. The whole, taken together, will be a revelation and should draw a still greater number of visitors to these reservations. To all of our park visitors, and to the American people generally, this Portfolio is dedicated. STEPHEN T. MATHER, Director, National Park Service. JANUARY 4, 1928. (s) DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A NATIONAL PARK AND A NATIONAL MONUMENT © HE difference between a national park and a national monument — is not always easy to define. A national park is created by Con- a: gress with the implied purpose of development by appropriations for the public enjoyment. A national monument is proclaimed by the President to conserve some historical structure or landmark, or some restricted area of unusual scientific value. ee | A national park is supposed to have parklike area, but several are very small. A national monument is supposed to be confined to the object con- served, but several have large areas. Cece The act of August 25, 1916, creating the National Park Service, and recent appropriations for the development of several national monuments tend to further extinguish differences. a ; For travel purposes it may be assumed that all national parks within the United States are ready for all visitors, including motorists in their own cars. One can comfortably reach and see many of the national monuments, but it will be safer to make special inquiry in advance of starting. (6) ees PT LONATL PARKS AT A GLANCE [Number, 19; total area, 11,817 square miles. Arranged chronologically in the order of their creation] DISTINCTIVE CHARACTERISTICS 114| 46 hot springs said to possess healing properties—Many hotels and boarding houses in adjacent city of Hot Springs—Bathhouses under public control. More geysers than in all rest of world together—Boiling volcanoes—Petrified forests—Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, remarkable for gorgeous coloring—Large lakes and waterfalls—Wilderness in- habited by deer, elk, bison, moose, antelope, bear, mountain sheep, etc. Valley of world-famed beauty—Lofty cliffs—Romantic vis- tas—Waterfalls of extraordinary height—3 groves of big trees—Large areas of snowy peaks—Waterwheel falls. The Big Tree National Park—Scores of sequoia trees from 20 to 30 feet in diameter, thousands over ro feet in diameter— Includes Mount Whitney, highest peak in continental Created to preserve the celebrated General Grant Tree, 40.3 feet in diameter—6 miles from Sequoia National Park. Largest accessible single-peak glacier system—28 glaciers, some of large size—48 square miles of glacier, 50 to 1,000 feet thick—Remarkable subalpine wild-flower fields. Lake of extraordinary blue in crater of extinct volcano, no visible inlet or outlet—Sides 1,000 feet high. Sulphur and other springs possessing curative properties— Under Government regulation. Wooded hilly tract on Devils Lake. Most notable and best preserved prehistoric cliff dwellings in United States, if not in the world. Rugged mountain region of unsurpassed alpine character— 250 glacier-fed lakes of romantic beauty—6o small gla- ciers—Peaks of unusual shape—Precipices thousands of feet deep—Fine trout fishing. Heart of the Rockies—Snowy Range, peaks 11,000 to 14,250 feet altitude—Remarkable records of glacial period. Two active volcanoes, Mauna Loa, largest in the world, and Kilauea, whose lake of bubbling lava is world famed— A third volcano, Haleakala, crater 8 miles wide. Active volcano—lLassen Peak, 10,460 feet in altitude— Cinder Cone, 6,907 feet—Hot springs—Mud geysers. Highest mountain in North America—Rises higher above surrounding country than any mountain in the world. Greatest example of stream erosion in the world—More than 10 miles wide—More than 1 mile deep. Group of granite mountains rising upon Mount Desert Magnificent gorge (Zion Canyon), depth from 1,500 to 2,500 NATIONAL PARK ne and Date LOCATION Stare miles Hot SPRINGS Middle 1832 Arkansas YELLOWSTONE North- 3,348 1872 western springs—Mud Wyoming YOSEMITE Middle E2125 1890 eastern California SEQUOIA Middle 604 1890 eastern California United States. GENERAL GRANT | Middle 4 1890 California Mount RAINIER | West 325 1899 central Washington CRATER LAKE Southern 249 1902 Oregon ‘PLATT Southern 1% 1902 Oklahoma Winp CAVE South 17 | Large natural cavern. 1903 Dakota SuLttys Hi, North 1t/s 1904 Dakota MESA VERDE Southern vat 1906 Colorado GLACIER North- I, 534 IgIco western Montana Rocky Mountain | Northern 378 IQI5 Colorado HAWAII Hawaii 242 1916 LASSEN Vo.canic | Northern “124 1916 California Mount. McKINLEy | South 2,645 IQ17 central Alaska GRAND. CANYON | Northern | 1,009 1919 Arizona LAFAYETTE Maine 12 1919 Coast Island. ZION South- 120 IgI9 western Utah feet, with precipitous walls, of great beauty and scenic interest. (7) THE NATIONAL. MONUMENTS AT A GLANCE Administered by National Park Service, Department of the Interior [Number, 32; total area, 3,681 square miles, or 2,356,036.81 acres; chronologically in order of creation] NAME DEvits TOWER MONTEZUMA CASTLE Et Morro PETRIFIED FOREST CHAcO CANYON (cha’ko) Muir Woops 2 (mir) PINNACLES NATURAL BRIDGES LEwIs AND CLARK CAVERN 2 TUMACACORI (ti-m4-ka’k0-ré) Navajo (nav’a-h6) SHOSHONE CAVERN (sh6-shd’-ne) GRAN QUIVIRA (gran ké-vé’ra) SITKA RAINBOW BRIDGE CoLORADO PAPAGO SAGUARO (pa’pa-go sag-wa’ro) DINOSAUR (di’n6-s6r) CAPULIN MOUNTAIN (ka-p@’lin) VERENDRYE (vér-ron’dré) Casa GRANDE 3 (ka’sa gran’da) KatMAI (kat’/mi) Scotts BLUFF Yucca Houses ? (ytic’ca) Fossum, Cycap AzTEC RUIN 2 HOVENWEEP PIPE SPRING CARLSBAD CAVE CRATERS OF THE MOON WUPATKEI GLACIER Bay LOCATION Wyoming Arizona New Mexico Arizona New Mexico California California Utah Montana Arizona Arizona Wyoming New Mexico Alaska Utah Colorado Arizona Utah New Mexico North Dakota Arizona Alaska Nebraska Colorado South Dakota New Mexico Utah-Colorado Arizona New Mexico Idaho Arizona Alaska AREA (acres) 1 1, 087, 990 I, 893. 719. 24, 960 2, 234. I, 164, 800 - 43 . 43 . 04 83 [on 22 SPECIAL CHARACTERISTICS Remarkable natural rock tower, of volcanic origin, 1,200 feet in height. Prehistoric cliff-dweller ruin of unusual size situated in a niche in face of a vertical cliff. Of scenic and ethnologic interest. Enormous sandstone rock eroded in form of a castle, upon which in- scriptions have been placed by early Spanish explorers. Contains cliff-dweller ruins. Of great historic, scenic, and ethnologic interest. Abundance of petrified coniferous trees, one of which forms a small natural bridge. Is of great scientific interest. Numerous cliff-dweller ruins, including communal houses, in good con- dition. Considerable excavation done at several of the ruins. One of the most noted redwood groves in California. Was donated by Hon. William Kent, ex-Member of Congress. Located 7 miles from San Francisco. Many spirelike rock formations, 600 to 1,000 feet high, visible many miles; also numerous caves and other formations. 3 natural bridges, among largest examples of their kind. Largest bridge is 222 feet high, 65 feet thick at top of arch; arch is 128 feet wide; span, 261 feet; height of span, 157 feet. Other two slightly smaller. Immense limestone cavern of great scientific interest, magnificently dec- orated with stalactite formations. Now closed to public because of depredations by vandals. Ruin of Franciscan mission dating from seventeenth century. Being restored by National Park Service as rapidly as funds permit. Numerous pueblo, or cliff-dweller, ruins in good preservation. Cavern of considerable extent near Cody. One of the most important of earliest Spanish mission ruins in the Southwest. Monument also contains pueblo ruins. Park of great natural beauty and historic interest as scene of massacre of Russians by Indians. Contains 16 totem poles of best native work- manship. Unique natural bridge of great scientific interest and symmetry. Height 309 feet above water, and span is 278 feet, in shape of rainbow. Contains many lofty monoliths and is wonderful example of erosion; of great scenic beauty and interest. Splendid collection of characteristic desert flora and numerous picto- graphs. Interesting rock formations. Deposits of fossil remains of prehistoric animal life of great scientific interest. Cinder cone of geologically recent formation. Includes Crowhigh Butte, peculiar mountain formation, from which Explorer Verendrye first beheld territory beyond Missouri River. These ruins are one of the most noteworthy relics of a prehistoric age and people within the limits of the United States. Discovered in ruinous condition in 1694. _ - Wonderland of great scientific interest in the study of volcanism. Phenomena exist upon a scale of great magnitude. Includes “ Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes.’’ Region of historic and scientific interest. Many famous old trails traversed by the early pioneers in the winning of the West passed over and through this monument. Located on eastern slope of Sleeping Ute Mountain. Ruins of great archeological value, relic of prehistoric inhabitants. Area containing deposits of plant fossils. Prehistoric ruin of pueblo type containing 500 rooms. Four groups of prehistoric towers, pueblos, and cliff dwellings. Old stone fort and spring of pure water in desert region serves as memo- rial to early western pioneer life. Limestone caverns of extraordinary proportions and of unusual beauty. Weird volcanic region containing remarkable fissure eruption, together with its associated volcanic cones, craters, lava flows, caves, natural bridges, and other phenomena. Prehistoric dwellings of ancestors of Hopi Indians. Contains tidewater glaciers of first rank. 1 Bstimated. 2 Donated to the United States. 8 From June 22, 1892, until Aug. 3, 1918, classified as a national park, (8) CONTENTS NATIONAL PARKS NAME CRATER LAKE GENERAL GRANT GLACIER . GRAND CANYON . Hawaii . Hot SPRINGS OF ARKANSAS LAFAYETTE LASSEN VOLCANIC MESA VERDE... Mount McKINLEy . MouNT RAINIER PLATT Rocky MOUNTAIN SEQUOIA SULLYS HILL WIND CAVE | YELLOWSTONE . YOSEMITE . ON gees ss (9) 2 Diagrams, 25 Views 2 Views . 26 Views . 24 Views-. 9 Views 6 Views 7 Views .2 Views. . - 207 VIEWS >. 2 Views. . . 26 Views 3 VICWS et: . 26 Views . 35 Views . 31 Views 6 Views PAGE 8107 63 Paes 207 ot2a5 5226 - 245 att Pas ie a | - 233 83 - 244 2179 59 - 244 . 244 II 30 e240 CONTENTS—Continued NATIONAL MONUMENTS PAGE AZTEC RUIN 4-2 ee coat ape OCAPULINI MOUNTAIN fe teo ¢e ers sa coe eee GCARTSBAD. CAVE 56a ee an ee CASA GRANDES ©. o (tae ge See eee CHACO CANYON ©. i otis sath eet eet ee dy COLORADO sey 0- 7s a Se eee CRATERS. OF THE MOONS a... 3 626s Devirs. TOWER: | 5 Sea kee ee DINOSAUR «Js. SG ae oe fee ae eee HE MORRO N54) ee ee ee ee Boss, - seagate 7 - Photograph by J. E. Haynes, St. Paul Tue Grant Geyser, In Many Respects THE GREATEST OF ALL It spouts for an hour at a time, the water reaching a height of 250 feet. Interval, six to fourteen days (17) 81741°—28 ‘SUIBI}S PUL SassTy pu soTqqnq UoTser sfoYM oy} ING Ce eC ‘paouatiedxe a10Jaq JOAIU ay STIL} sermpow ‘yoo} AVY pue porpuny Od} 0} Joo} pesJoAVs woIy AIBA suUOT Japjoyeq saneuseur oy} AyUIezIeg ‘siajsodumt se sjaeNs -dnia ey], ‘“SyoaM Jo s[BAIO}UL IeMBer ye moj v ‘skep 30 24} Ul pello}s UoAD SoWITeUIOS pue possm oJOM sInoy Jo s[eAIo}UT 78 SIat{}JO ‘sojnuTM Moy ATOAD oUIOS ‘spuooes SIoInjoo Ajre*yy + “suo}SMITIG poyjews Aoy) pourseurt May AraAd ynods suI0G ‘apis jsaMm oY} UO suIseq aS] stoiojdxe Ajiey ‘U9}}08I0} 9q 0} JOADU UONes 9914} 94} UL v[qIssao0e stashas AJIOJ WEY} V1OWI IV sI9q], -Uas B® spioye suiseq Joshas oY} JO MOIA JsIy AH HSla SYOdVA ONINVALS GNV LOAOdS SYHSAHD NISVGQ UWASAAL) SITYUON, FHT, [ned “18 ‘saukoy gq *f &4 1431shd07n (18) SYNOP{ May AUAAYW SA WId HOIHA\ UsdSAdL) AGISUAATY ATAAIT ANT, [nod ‘18 ‘saukoyy “7 -[ &9 y¢oL30j04J NOILdNYY NI WOdTAS “UASATL) NIVINNOJ UV TNOVLOdadS AH], jnvd ‘1§ ‘saukoyy “7 *[ £9 ytvsdoj0yg (19) Photograph by J. E. Haynes, St. Paul Evectric Peak, A SuPERB LANDMARK OF THE NorTH SIDE MANY-COLORED CANYON ROM Inspiration Point, looking a thousand feet almost vertically down upon the foaming Yellowstone River, and southward three miles to the Great Falls, the hushed observer sees spread before him the most glorious kaleidoscope of color he will ever see in nature. The steep slopes are inconceivably carved by the frost and the ero- sion of the ages. Sometimes they lie in straight lines at easy angles, from which jut high rocky prominences. Sometimes they seem carved from the side walls. Here and there jagged rocky needles rise perpendicularly like groups of gothic spires. And the whole is colored as brokenly and vividly as the field of a kaleido- scope. The whole is streaked and spotted in every shade from the deepest orange to the faintest lemon, from deep crimson through all the brick shades to the softest pink, from black through all the grays and pearls to glistening white. The greens are furnished by the dark pines above, the lighter shades of growth caught here and there in soft masses on the gentler slopes and the foaming green of the plunging river so far below. ‘The blues, ever changing, are found in the dome of the sky overhead. (20) Copyright by Haynes, St. Paul Sytvan Laxe, BeLow Sytvan Pass, Copy Roap Copyright by Gifford View FRomM Mount WasHBURN SHOWING YELLOWSTONE LAKE IN DISTANCE The northern east side is a country of striking and romantic scenery made accessible by excellent roads (ar) Photograph by J. E. Haynes Tue Hoty Ciry rrom THE Copy Roan, Eastern ENTRANCE Photograph by J. E. Haynes ENTERING YELLOWSTONE From THE SoutH—Lewis FaLts . (2a) Copyright by S. N. Leek Tur Sout EntrRANCE Is NEAR THE LorpLty TreTon RANGE, JusT OVER THE BoUNDARY (23) Copyright by J. E. Haynes, St. Paul (24) Copyright by S. N. Leek SEVENTEEN THousAND ELk Roam Turis SancTuARY WILDERNESS Photograph by Albert Schlechien It Is THE Naturay Home or THE CELEBRATED BiGHorN, THE Rocxy-MounTain SHEEP (26) Photograph by G. Swanson DeEER Make UNEXPECTED SILHOUETTES AT FREQUENT INTERVALS t GREATEST ANIMAL REFUGE HE Yellowstone National Park is by far the largest and most suc- cessful wild-animal preserve in the world. Since it was estab- lished in 1872 hunting has been strictly prohibited, and elk, bear, deer of several kinds, antelope, bison, moose, and bighorn mountain sheep roam the valleys and mountains in large numbers. Seventeen thousand elk, for instance, live in the park. Antelope, nearly extinct elsewhere, here abound. These animals have long since ceased to fear man as wild animals do every- where except in our national parks. While few tourists see them who follow the beaten roads in the everlasting sequence of stages, those who linger in the glorious wilderness see them in an abundance that fairly astonishes. S. N. Leek In WINTER WHEN THE SNows ARE DEEP Park RanGceERS LEAVE Hay IN CONVENIENT SPOTS (27) Photograph by SNIVINONOJ FHL NI AONATY LHONOS GNV SUALNOAP[ AG NOVY NAAIUG: AAT, HOIHM ‘SNIVIG AHL AO Sdua_{ ATIM AHL JO LNVNWAY V SI GUaf{ AIA, FH], ‘AIdIdVY ONISVAUYONT HLOG ‘Olvadng uo ‘NOSIG 4O SduaP{ SNOUTdSOUg OM], AAV AUTH, SINT *S psvapy &q y¢vsd0j0y qT ANIMALS REALLY AT HOME Photograph by Edward S. Curtis UNLIKE THE GriIzzLy, THE Brown Bear Cuiimss TREES QUICKLY AND EasiILy ERY different, indeed, from the beasts of the after-dinner story and the literature of adventure are the wild animals of the Yellowstone. Never shot at, never pursued, they are comparatively as fearless as song-birds nestling in the homestead trees. _ Wilderness bears cross the trail without haste a few yards ahead of the solitary passer-by, and his accustomed horses jog on undisturbed. Deer by scores lift their antlered heads above near thickets to watch his passing. Elk scarcely slow their cropping of forest grasses. Even the occasional moose, straying far from his southern wilderness, scarcely quickens his long lope. Herds of antelope on near-by hills watch but hold their own. Only the grizzly and the mountain sheep, besides the predatory beasts, still hide in the fastnesses. But even the mountain sheep loses fear and joins the others in winters of heavy snow when park rangers scatter hay by the roadside. (29) Photograph by S. N. Leek THE PARADISE OF ANGLERS 7IHE Yellowstone is a land of splendid rivers. “Three watersheds find their beginnings within its borders. From Yellowstone Lake flows north the rushing Yellowstone River with its many tributaries; 7 from Shoshone, Lewis, and Heart Lakes flows south the Snake River; and in the western slopes rise the Madison and its many tributaries. All are trout waters of high degree. : | The native trout of this region is the famous cutthroat. The grayling is native in the Madison River and its tributaries. Others have been planted. Besides the stream fishing, which is unsurpassed, the lakes, particularly Shoshone Lake and certain small ones, afford admirable sport. Photograph by J. E. Haynes, St. Paul wei A Bic Lake Trout FRoM SHOSHONE LAKE The game cutthroat is the commonest trout in the Yellowstone, but there are six other varieties (30) Photograph by J. E. Haynes, St. Paul _ CUTTHROATS FROM ONE TO THREE oR Four Pounps ARE TAKEN IN LARGE NUMBERS AT THE YELLOWSTONE LAKE OUTLET Copyright by Gifford Younc Pexuicans on Moutiy Istanp IN YELLOWSTONE LAKE The Yellowstone pelicans are very large and pure white, a picturesque feature of the park (31) Copyright by J. E. Haynes Party Berinc ConpucTED Over Mammotu Hort Sprincs ForMATIONS Copyright by J. E. Haynes mare — Pusiic AUTOMOBILE Camp AT MamMmoTH (32) ite Copyright by J. E. Haynes Granp Canyon Lopce, Marin BurLpinc LIVING in the YELLOWSTONE HE park has entrances on all four sides. All have railroad connec- tions; the southern entrance, by way of Jackson Hole and past the jagged snowy Tetons, has three approach roads. ‘The roads from all entrances enter a central belt road which makes a large circuit connecting places of special interest. Four large hotels are located at points convenient for seeing the sights and are supplemented by lodges at modest prices. But the day of the unhurried visitor has dawned. If you want to enjoy your Yellowstone, if, indeed, you want even to see it, you should make your minimum twice five days; two weeks is better; a month is ideal. Spend the additional time at the canyon and on the trails. See the lake and the pelicans. Fish in Shoshone Lake. Climb Mount Washburn. Spend a day at Tower Falls. See Mammoth Hot Springs. Hunt wild animals with a camera. Stay with the wilderness and it will repay you a thousandfold. Fish a little, study nature in her myriad wealth—and live. The Yellowstone National Park is ideal for camping out. When people realize this it should quickly become one of the most lived in, as it already is one of the most livable, of all our national parks. 81741°—28——3 (33) Copyright by J. E. Haynes, St. Paul Oxtp FairHrut' Inn <4 be 8 4h eS RM sane yee ee se ee Copyright by J. E. Haynes, St. Paul Photograph by J. E. Haynes, St. Paul THe LAKE Horst THREE OF THE Four LARGE HoTELS IN THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK (34) 4, (35) Photograph by A. C. Pillsbury Tue Hicuest WATERFALL IN THE WorRLD—ITHE YOSEMITE FALLS The Upper Fall measures 1,430 feet, as high as nine Niagaras. ‘The Lower Fall measures 320 feet The total drop from crest to river, including intermediate cascades, is almost half a mile (36) ees Pls Photograph by U.S. R Tue YosEMITE VALLEY FROM INsPIRATION PorInT, SHow1nNG BrRIDALVEIL FALLS LANDef ENCHANTMENT HO does not know of the Yosemite Valley? And yet, how few have heard of the Yosemite National Park! How few know that this world-famous, incomparable valley is merely a crack seven miles long in a scenic masterpiece of eleven hundred square miles! John Muir loved the valley and crystallized its fame in phrase. But still more he loved the national park, which he describes as including ‘innumerable lakes and waterfalls and smooth silky lawns; the noblest forests, the loftiest granite domes, the deepest ice-scuiptured canyons, the brightest crystalline pavements, and snowy mountains soaring into the sky twelve and thirteen thousand feet, arrayed in open ranks and spiry pinnacled groups par- tially separated by tremendous canyons and amphitheaters; gardens on their sunny brows, avalanches thundering down their long white slopes, cataracts roaring gray and foaming in the crooked rugged gorges, and glaciers in their shadowy recesses working in silence, slowly completing their sculptures; new- born lakes at their feet, blue and green, free or encumbered with drifting ice- bergs like miniature Arctic Oceans, shining, sparkling, calm as stars.” (37) eclamation Service THe YOSEMITE VALLEY FROM GLACIER POINT The Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls are here shown in partial profile (38) 892 feet above the floor of the valley (39) FROM NEAR WASHINGTON COLUMN Har Dome, + ap aio = s = wn wm as) — Photograph by J. T. Boysen ‘ = se i zu) é = 4 vitae Photograph by A. C. Pillsbury eT Tue SHEER IMMENSITY OF THE PRECIPICES ON EITHER SIDE THE VALLEY’S PEACEFUL Fue een Majesty oF THE GRANITE WALLS, AND THE Unreat. A Quatity oF THE Ever VARY OLE, ATTEsT IT INCOMPARABLE » ALMOST FairyLikeE (40) : (41) Earty Morninc Besipe Mirror LAKE This lake is famous for its reflections of the cliffs. Mount Watkins in the background (42 y Sos) 910, By 3.1. Boys i feet, te € L& Ex, CapiTan AT SUNSET Boysen Di Copyrighted, 1910, by J floor cy isted the glacier, rises 3,604 feet from the vall Ite Tes whose hard grani b) is gigantic rock Th (43) THE VALLEY INCOMPARABLE Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service BEAUTIFUL VERNAL FALLS (44) HE first view of most spots of unusual celebrity often falls short of expecta- tion, but this is seldom, if ever, true of the Yosemite Valley. The sheer immensity of the precipices on either side of the peaceful floor; the loftiness and the romantic suggestion of the numerous waterfalls; the maj- esty of the granite walls; and the unreal, almost fairy quality of the ever-varying whole can not be successfully foretold. This valley was once a tor- tuous river canyon. So rapidly was it cut by the Merced that the tributary valleys soon re- mained hanging high on either side. Then the canyon became the bed of a great glacier. It was widened as well as deepened, and the hanging character of the side valleys was accentuated. This explains the enormous height of the waterfalls. The Yosemite Falls, for in- stance, drops 1,430 feet in one sheer fall, a height equal to nine Niagara Falls piled one on top of the other. The Lower Yosemite Fall, immediately be- low, has a drop of 320 feet, or two Niagaras more. Vernal Falls has the same height. The Nevada Falls drops 594 feet sheer, and the celebrated Bridal- veil Falls 620 feet. Nowhere else in the world may be had a water spectacle such as this. atts Its Name Is Setr-E Tibb a. Photograph by H. VIDENT—IHE BRIDALVEIL FALLS (45) Photograph by H. C. Tibbitts Tenaya LAKE A Srrixinc View or Nevapa Fauus, Liserty Cap on Lert (46) Photograph by A. C. Pillsbury _. VERNAL AND Nevapa Fatts AND Hatr DoME FROM THE GLACIER Point TRAIL Photograph by J. V. Lloyd Tue New AHWAHNEE HOTEL Opened for service July 16, 1927 (47) CHARM OF THE SCENIC WILD Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service THe Grizzty GIANT, THE BIGGEST YOSEMITE SEQUOIA UMMER in the Yosemite is unreal. The valley, with its foaming falls dissolving into mists, its calm forests hiding the singing river, its enormous granites peaked and domed against the sky, its sound of distant waters, is a thing of beauty. One has a sense of fairyland and the awe of infinity. Imagine Cathedral Rocks rising twenty-six hundred feet above the wild flowers, El Capitan thirty-six hundred feet, Sentinel Dome four thousand feet, Half Dome five thousand feet, and Clouds Rest six thousand feet! And among them, the waterfalls! Even the weather appears impossible; the summers are warm, but not too warm; dry, but not too dry; the nights cold and marvelously starry. A few miles away are the Big Trees, not the greatest groves nor the greatest trees, for those are in the Sequoia Na- tional Park, a hundred miles south, but three groves containing monsters which, next to Sequoia’s, are the hugest and the oldest living things. Of these the Grizzly Giant is king—whose diameter is nearly thirty feet, whose girth is over ninety- nine, and whose height is more than two hundred. Their presence commands the silence due to worship. Winter has become a feature in the life of the valley. Hotels are open to accommodate an increasing flow of vis- itors. The falls are still and frozen, the trees laden with snowy burdens. ‘The greens have vanished; the winter sun shines upon a glory of gray and white. Winter sports are now very popular on the floor of the valley. (48) Photograph by J. V. Lloyd On THE TOBOGGAN Winter sports are rapidly becoming popular on the floor of the valley Photograph by J. V. Lloyd WINTER SPORTS 81741°—28 4 (49) LIVING IN THE WILDERNESS IVING is comfortable in the — Copyrighted, 1910, by J. T. Boysen WuHo’s ComInG? Copyrighted, 1910, by J. T. Boysen Woor! Yosemite. A luxurious new hotel, the Ahwahnee, was com- pleted in 1927 to care for both summer and winter visitors, and lodges offer excellent summer accommodations at more reasonable rates. Above the valley are lodges and camps at convenient intervals on road and trail. There is also a hotel on Glacier Point, overlooking the valley. The Yosemite is an excellent place to camp out. One may have choice of many kinds of mountain country. Nearly every- where the trout fishing is exceptionally fine. Camping outfits may be rented and supplies purchased in the valley. Garages for motorists and resthouses for hikers are located at convenient intervals. A number of free public automobile camp grounds have been made available by the Government. | A new all-year road into Yosemite Valley was opened to the public during the summer of 1927. TIOGA ROAD BOVE the north rim of the valley the old Tioga Road, which the Department of the ‘ Interior acquired in 1915 and put into good condition, crosses the park from east to west, affording a new route across the Sierra and opening to the pub- lic for the first time the magnificent scenic region in the north. The Tioga Road was built in 1881 to a mine soon after abandoned. For years it has been impassable. It is now the gate- — way to a wilderness heretofore accessible - only to campers. (50) 5 3 2 NORTH OF THEVALLEY’S RIM EFORE the restored Tioga Road made accessible the magnificent mountain and valley area constituting the northern half of the Yosemite National Park, this pleasure paradise was known to none except a few enthusiasts who penetrated its wilderness year after year with camping outfits. Motorists making the trip from the valley to Lake Tahoe now pass through this area. It is the region of rivers and lakes and granite domes and brilliantly polished glacial pavements. The mark of the glacier may be plainly traced on every hand. — It is the region of small glaciers, remnants of a gigantic past, of which there are several in the park. It is the region of rock-bordered glacier lakes of which there are more than two hundred and fifty. It is the region, above all, of small, rushing rivers and of the roaring, foaming, twisting Tuolumne, second only to the Merced. From the base of the Sierra crest, born of its snows, the Tuolumne River rushes westward roughly paralleling the Tioga Road. Midway it slants sharply down into the Tuolumne Canyon, forming in its mad course a water spectacle destined some day to world fame. Photograph by George Stone Troca Roap SCENERY (51) AWOQ ATIVE] dO MOVG AHL Lag] aHL NO ‘daWO(] TENILNAG AO MOVG AHL NaS Ag AVI LHOIY FHL NO ‘ATY S,AGTIVA AHL JO HLNOS sm9qLT DO °H 89 ytvssoqyg (52) MVAg IVACIHLVD ONIMOHS ¢ SONTYdS Vdosg aVAN, AVvOey VOOIT, HHL WOW ¢ SMOCVAJ. ANWOAION], GALVAEATAD AHI, SHIgqLL, “DH 84 ydvss004g (53) Photograph by W. L. Huber Tue Hic Sierra: View or Mount Rirrer From Kuna Crest Photograph by Herbert W. Gleason BeauTtirut Rocers LAKE AND REGULATION Peak IN THE NorTHern Part oF THE Park (54) Photograph by J. V. Lloyd FIisHING IN THE MeERcED RIVER oe ign ORME SRP A BEDCHAMBER IN YOSEMITE Travelers on the trails carry no tents because it does not rain. A sleeping-bag, a pine-needle mattress, a sheltered grove, and a ceiling of green leaves amply suttice (55) NOANV) ANNOTON, “ISAHMUILV\\ OIG FHL JO MAIA ASOTD V kangsyid ‘2 ‘¥ 9 ydvsdopoyg (56) Photograph by W. L. Huber THe WATERWHEEL BELOW CALIFORNIA FALLS MAD WATERS of TUOLUMNE N excellent trail leads from the Tioga Road down the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, famous for its leaping waters. Here the river, slanting sharply, becomes, in John Muir’s phrase, ‘‘one wild, exulting, onrushing mass of snowy purple bloom spreading over glacial waves of granite without any definite channel, gliding in magnificent silver plumes, dashing and foaming through huge bowlder dams, leaping high in the air in wheellike whirls, displaying glorious enthusiasm, tossing from side to side, doubling, glinting, singing in exuberance of mountain energy.” Photograph by A. C. Pillsbury A Parr or TUOLUMNE WATERWHEELS (57) THE EVERLASTING SNOWS_ UMMITS of perpetual snow are, for most Amer- icans, a new association with Yosemite. But the region’s very origin was that Sierra whose crest peaks on the park’s eastern boundary still shelter in shrunken old age the once all-powerful glaciers. Excelsior, Conness, Dana, Kuna, Blacktop, Lyell, Long—from the com- panionship of these great peaks de- scended the ice-pack of old and de- scend to-day the sparkling waters of the Tuolumne and the Merced. From their great summits. the climber beholds a sublime wilderness of crowded, towering mountains, a con- trast to the silent, uplifting valley as striking as mind can conceive. Ever- lasting snows fill the hollows between the peaks and spatter their jagged granite sides. The glaciers feed in- Phooi adh Been numerable small lakes. AscENDING Mount Lyeti Vy Photograph by J. V. Lloyd oa ‘ Haur Dome 1n WINTER | (58) Hg ot THE BI NAL PARK : c Photograph by Lindley Eddy Nature Guipe Party at Concress Group oF Bic TREES IN GIANT FOREST (59) San Gl i 8 (e) — 4 4 < o aa) ea] tr al fx e) S = = Photograph by Rodney L Photograph by U. S. Geological Survey It Is tHE IDEAL ParRK FOR CAMPING LAND OF GIANT TREES ATURE’S forest masterpiece is John Muir’s designation of the giant tree after which is named the Sequoia National Park in middle eastern California. Here are found several large groves of the celebrated Sequoia gigantea, popularly known and widely celebrated as the Big Tree of California. More than a million of these trees grow within the park’s narrow confines, many of them mere babes of a few hundred years, many sturdy youths of a thousand years, many in the young vigor of two or three thousand years, and a few in full maturity. The principal entrances are Visalia and Exeter, Cali- fornia. Half a dozen miles away is the General Grant National Park, whose four square miles were set apart because they contained a magnificent grove of Big Trees, including the General Grant Tree, second only in size and age to the patriarch of all, the General Sherman. On Sequoia’s favored slopes grow other mammoth conifers. The sugar pine, yellow pine, and red and white firs attain a size which would distinguish them were they not in the company of the Big Trees. Sequoia is also the park of birds, and many interesting species are found here. (6x) THE BIGGEST THING ALIVE ‘CRS Sas Fens Photograph by Lindley Eddy Tue GENERAL SHERMAN TREE Probably the largest and oldest living thing in all the world (62) F the thousands, per- haps millions, of se- quoia trees, old and young, twelve thou- sand exceed ten feet in diameter. Muir states that a diameter of twenty feet and a height of two hundred and _ seventy-five is perhaps the average for mature and favorably situated trees, while trees twenty-five feet in diameter and approaching three hundred in height are not rare. But the greatest trees have these astonishing dimensions: General Sherman: Height, 273.9 feet; base diameter, 37.3 feet; diameter above bulge, 22.1 feet. General Grant: Height, 266.6 feet; base diameter, 40.3 feet; diameter above bulge, 21.7 feet. Abraham Lincoln: Diameter, 31 feet; height, 270 feet. California: Diameter, 30 feet; height, 260 feet. | George Washington: Diam- eter, 29 feet; height, 255 feet. A little effort will help you realize these dimensions. Meas- ure and stake in front of a church the diameter of the General Sherman Tree. ‘Then stand back a distance equal to the tree’s height. Raise your eyes slowly and imagine this huge trunk rising in front of the church. | When you reach a point in the sky forty-five de- grees up from the spot on which you stand, you will have the tree’s height were it growing in front of your church. foe OLDEST THING ALIVE HE General Sherman Tree is perhaps the oldest living thing. At the birth of Moses it was probably a sapling. Its exact age can not be determined without counting the rings, but it is probably in excess of thirty- five hundred years and may be over five thousand years. When Christ was born, it was a lusty youth of at least fifteen hundred summers. There are many thousands of trees in the Sequoia National Park which were growing thrift- ily when Christ was born; hun- dreds which were flourishing while Babylon was in its prime; several which antedated the pyr- amids on the Egyptian desert. John Muir counted four thou- sand rings on one prostrate giant. his tree probably sprouted while the Tower of Babel was still standing. The sequoia is regular and symmetrical in general form. Its powerful, stately trunk is purplish to cinnamon brown and rises without a branch a hundred or a hundred and fifty feet—which is as high or higher than the tops of most forest trees. Its bulky limbs shoot boldly out on every side. Its foliage, the most feathery and delicate of all the conifers, is densely massed. The wood is almost inde- structible except by fire. Photograph by W. L. Huber THe GENERAL GRANT TREE Second in size and age to the General Sherman Tree (63) Photograph by George F. Belden ‘DEEP IN THE Woopy WILDERNESS” WILDERNESS OF GIANTS ERSONS who have been in the Mariposa Grove in the Yosemite National Park have seen Big Trees of the noblest type; but only in the Giant Forest of the Sequoia National Park will they see them in the impressive glory of massed multitude and wildest grandeur. To walk and wonder through these woods, even for a few ae is to feel an emotion which can be duplicated nowhere else. It is not the Big Trees alone, as in the Mariposa Grove, that stir the ant but the bewildering and climatic repetition of giants rising singly or superbly grouped from a dense and seemingly endless forest of noble growths of many other kinds. , Without the sequoias this forest would be notable. With their constant unexpected repetition the effect is dramatic, even breath-taking. Many of the largest trees are casually met as the visitor winds through the aisles of pine, and their sudden appearance is the more dramatic because of the freedom of their red pillared stems from the bright green flowing moss upon the trunks and branches of the uncountable pines. | Until July, 1916, when Congress appropriated $50,000 fer the purchase of a part of the private holdings in the Giant Forest, it was our national misfortune and peril that most of these mammoth trees remained the property of individuals. The balance of the property was purchased for $20,000 by the National Geo- graphic Society and donated to the United States. (64) “iia oe 4 by Lindley Eddy Photograph VISTAS OF THE GIANT FOREST Many of these trees were growing thriftily when Christ was 81741°—28——5 (65) Photograph by Lindley Eddy Auta PEAK FRoM Moro Rock Photograph by H. C. Tibbitts Atta Meapows Near THE Giant Forest (66) ' Photograph by Lindley Eddy ; SUNSET FROM THE Rim oF Marsie Fork CANYON Photograph by Lindley Eddy Jupce Watrer Fry Freepinc DEER IN Giant FOREST (67) precepts —- i 4 hal a ae AMIR i em OIE ae a ; +e Riad. kek ergo Se % Tighe Ne” He: a te LP 2) a] oa a4 H 4 4 ea} eo = oa i) BH 4 e Ry am cal ae B = ca ©) (a) ie) — S n oa % Oo cy ‘= A 2 Oo Photograph by Lindley Eddy ) a b “OFA * My 7 att we g.. dak Re Pa Photograph by H. E. Roberts SEQuOIA AND Fir IN THE GENERAL Grant NATIONAL PaRK 69) ( Photograph by Lindley Eddy Juniper TREES AT Hamitton LAKE (70) Photograph by Lindley Eddy SrarnwAy up Moro Rock (71) Photograph by Lindley Eddy ndestruct! except by fire. This tree may have been prostrate for many centuries (73) This trunk measures 288 feet. Sequoia wood is almost 1 (72) GENERAL’S HIGHWAY EN RouUTE TO GIANT FOREST (74) THE GREATER SEQUOIA O the north and east of the original Sequoia National Park lay an area of extraordinarily scenic country. Just as the park was supreme in its forest luxuriance, so the outlying country was supreme | in rock-sculptured canyon and snowy summit. Part of this area, including Kern Canyon and Mount Whitney, was added to the park in 1926, increasing it to an area of six hundred and four square miles. Thus was acquired the Kern Canyon—a Yosemitelike valley thirty miles in length—the whole of the Upper Kaweah watershed with the River Valley and Kaweah Peaks, and Mount Whitney. : Sequoia Park now contains the largest trees, and outside of Alaska, the largest mountain in the United States. It also has the greatest range in altitude of any of our national parks—from one thousand three hundred feet at the park boundary near Ash Mountain headquarters to fourteen thousand five hundred and two feet at the summit of Mount Whitney. Photograph by H. C. Tibbitts Tue GoLpEN Trout CREEK The trout caught here are brilliantly golden. Many lakes and streams in the park have been stocked from this near-by stream (75) Photograph by Lindley Eddy Bic Kern Laxe, Looxinc Nortn up Kern River Canyon (76) Photograph by Lindley Eddy Looxinc NortHEAST Down Kern RIVER FROM RATTLESNAKE TRAIL (77) KERN and KAWEAH CANYONS HE Sierras contain many of those glaciated canyons to which John Muir gave the general designation of ‘‘yosemites’’ from the chief of them all—the Yosemite Valley. Two of the most notable of these yosemites were added to the Sequoia Park in 1926. These are the Kern Canyon and the Upper Kaweah Canyon or River Valley. ‘The former is over thirty miles long with three thousand feet cliffs sculptured and painted in many forms and colors, and it contains the finest fishing stream in the Sierras—the Kern River with native rainbow trout up to nine or ten pounds in weight. The Upper Kaweah Canyon contains in River Valley, Cliff Creek, Granite Creek, and other tributaries several true yosemites, with cliffs and domes tower- ing thousands of feet above valley floors, streams, and lakes. This region is within a day’s journey of the Big Tree groves at Giant Forest and is reached by excellent trails. Ss en Sy oa j Photograph by Lindley Eddy Looxinc Down Kern RivErR—KeErn Dome 1n DISTANCE (78) od tate Lion PrEak FROM MINERS Pass Upper Enp or Mippite Fork or Kaweau RIVER (79) . do} oY} 0} ‘slopes Ssuispo ‘soyey] Sutpuno1 ‘sooidieid Surjairys ‘sessed Surpeoimy ‘dn ‘dn ‘dn Udy} ‘UII VY} JOAO pUB OJUT ‘aprlAIq Wis}so\ }eII5) 94} jo siopusjds oy} ssoroe fyeamey oy} Jo SIoJeMpeoy oy} dn ‘oury Jaquit} sy} sAoqe syved jo purl oseUr 94} OUT sould [rey xOF oy} Suowe dn usy} ‘sourd re8ns af}}1] pue SIT pot OJUT YsoIOF VIZ Sig oy} Jo jno—uIey Yord pue Yyoeqasioy jo Joyeu & SI }I o104} Woy ‘seoly Sig 94} Jo mMopeys AOA oY} Jopun noA Aired sojiqowroyne eiyesiA Woy ‘“xewyo pue uonends -uI jo ssoisoid wv st yrs s AouzyA\ 0} Aoumol oqJ, ‘ NIV.LNNOW LSAHLLAOT alo ‘yaoy 10S‘F1 st apnynye s}y «Au JUNO], st ‘Jsd1 9} WL} Jays oO sasIouUle ssvUr sI]} JO NO ‘BOLIDULY JO ZUTALUL VY} Jo}Je I9AO }Jey [Je JoJ punois Suidumnp oy} oom sty} Yysnoy} se ‘deoy ormeyy ‘surpmeards auo ojur ‘Ajssopyoor ‘AT[NJTIMA Woy} peyquin} ‘sureyunour Joy passe SLY VIIBIG oy} sey Joy ‘xem we AT[eI9}] Jnq “YVog ssuo’] pue Jorureyy JUNO VAI] ‘Adu A\ St JruIUINs PoezeOsSI ‘SUIIOMO} ON ‘“BYSETY JO epis}no soze}G peyuQ } Ul UreyUNOU JsoysTy oy} ‘AOU A JUNO. UL XBUITTD JSONJYSM s}t Soyove BIIBIIG YH pun TSAAO SWUAAIS YL SSVq SUANIJ] NO AO] HONOUH], TIVY], ONILLAD ) 80 ( ITV S] LVH], ‘LSay FHL NVHJ, YAHOIF, ANC SADUAWY SSVI, FHL 40 LAQ ‘XVNITD V ATIVUALIT LAG “AVAg SONOT GNV UAINIVY INNO AIT ‘AANLIHAA LNAOJT ST LINWAS GALVIOS]T “ONIYAMOT, ON sjaung y4opy &q ydoss0;04 J Photograph by Emerson Hough SumMi1T oF Mount Wuitnevy. THe Stone SHELTER ON Mount WuitNEy’s (82) MOUNT RAIN IER NATIONAL PARK (83) Photograph by Ranapar Studio A Rippuinc River or Ice 400 Feet Tuicx Fiow1nc From THE SHINING SUMMIT Looking from a wild-flower slope down upon the celebrated Nisqually Glacier and up at Columbia Crest (84) “SKYLINE TRAIL | ae National Park Party Reapy TO START ON SKYLINE TRAIL TRIP THE FROZEN OCTOPUS ROM the Cascade Mountains in Washington rises a series of vol- canoes which once blazed across the sea like giant beacons. To- day, their fires quenched, they suggest a stalwart band of Knights of the Ages, helmeted in snow, armored in ice, standing at parade upon a carpet patterned gorgeously in wild flowers. Easily chief of this knightly band is Mount Rainier, a giant towering fourteen thousand four hundred and eight feet above tidewater in Puget Sound. Home-bound sailors far at sea mend their courses from his silver summit. This mountain has a glacier system far exceeding in size and impressive beauty that of any other in the United States. From its snow-covered summit twenty-eight rivers of ice pour slowly down its sides. Seen upon the map, as if from an airplane, one thinks of it as an enormous frozen octopus stretching icy tentacles down upon every side among the rich gardens of wild flowers and splendid forests of firs and cedars below. (85) Photograph by Ranapar Studio Group oF Hixers Near Epirx Fats ey ae ae Photograph by Curtis & Miller From UnpER THE SHADOWY F IRs ee Seo moe en ts Photograph by Curtis §§ Miller ; f . a 4 ONE OF THE GREAT SPECTACLES OF America Is Mount RAINIER, FROM INDIAN HENRY UNTING Grounp, GLISTENING AGAINST THE SKY AND PicrurEepD AGAIN In Mirror LAKE - (88) (89) punoiso10} oyi ul ulof pue pueys] Joloe[q) AYD01 punoie suondsemp oysoddo ut aps Ady faanqord oy ur : uMoYs JuIOd ysaysry ay} ‘ssaoong JuIOg mojeq ysnf enbs19 ay} Ul sulsaq eMOYe], YINOG oy} {qrWUINS oY} Ie sUISEq “IJo] By UO ‘eMOYRT, oY HF ANNOUL) ONILNOY S,AUNAP] NVIGN] WOUd SASUNOD AIOHM ASH], HONOUH], NIIG AG AVI] SUTIOVIQ VWOHV], OM], AH], AW G3 suany &q ydvs30q04q ¢ 4 ¢ ., PUNOIS snodeid ay} SUIZIUIOUOSA o19M ‘daap Os 951 puk asUaP Os SpoOM UddM}0q ddeds usdo Uv oyeUI O} PrIZ,, “TINY UYOL soqtiM ,“oIN}eNy JIsyV,, SYAMOTJ] GIIA, LNVIYAXNT AO SNAGUVD sNoTDAoy auy ‘ SYHONIJ WHIOVTIL) AOT AHL ONIHONOT, GNV NoaAMLAG ‘AUAHMAUAATY Ly Gy Susny &q y¢vs9010Y J Photograph by Ranapar Studio. Party Out on THE GtaciAL IcE The guides who take parties out on the glaciers are familiar with all ridges and crevasses (92) . THE GIANT RIVERS OF ICE VERY winter the moisture-laden winds from the Pacific, suddenly cooled against its summit, deposit upon Rainier’s top and sides enormous snows. ‘These, settling in the mile-wide crater which was left after an explosion in some prehistoric age which carried away perhaps two thousand feet of the volcano’s former height, press with overwhelming weight down the mountain’s sloping sides. Thus are born the glaciers, for the snow under its own pressure quickly hardens intoice. Through twenty-eight valleys, self-carved in the solid rock, flow these rivers of ice, now turning, as rivers of water turn, to avoid the harder rock strata, now roaring over precipices like congealed water falls, now rip- pling, like water currents, over rough bottoms, pushing, pouring relentlessly on until they reach those parts of their courses where warmer air turns them into rivers of water. There are forty-eight square miles of these glaciers. ee Photograph by Curtis F Miller Snout or NisquaLty GLACIER WHERE THE NISQUALLY River BEGINS (93) Photograph by Curtis F Miller { CLOSE TO THE SUMMIT OF Mount RAINIER 7 Photograph by Ranapar Studio ‘“ . LEAVING FOR THE SUMMIT Party at the foot of Pinnacle Glacier. Paradise Valley in distance with Mount Rainier — j rising above into the clouds (94) ae IN AN ARCTIC WONDERLAND OUNT RAINIER is nearly three miles high measured from sea level. It rises nearly two miles from its im- mediate base. Once it was a finished cone like the famous Fujiyama, the sacred mountain of Japan. Then it was prob- ably sixteen thousand feet high. Indian legends tell of the great eruption. In addition to the twenty- eight named glaciers there are others yet unnamed and little known. Few visitors have seen the wonderful north side, a photograph of which will be found on a later page. It pos- sesses possibilities for the de- velopment of a route to Co- lumbia Crest, the wonderful snow-covered summit which is the third highest summit in the United States. Many interesting things might be told of the glaciers were therespace. Forexample, several species of minute insects live in the ice, hopping about like tiny fleas. They are harder to see than the so-called sand fleas at the seashore because much smaller. Slender, dark- brown worms live in countless millions in the surface ice. Microscopic rose-colored plants also thrive in such great num- bers that they tint the surface here and there, making what is commonly called ‘‘red snow.” Photograph by Ranapar Studio CoASTING AT PARADISE VALLEY (95) GLACIER AND WILD FLOWER ROBABLY no glacier of large size in the world is so quickly, easily, and comfortably reached as the most striking and celebrated, P though by no means the largest, of Mount Rainier’s, the Nisqually Glacier. It descends directly south from the snowy summit in a long curve, its lower finger reaching into parklike glades of luxuriant wild flowers. From Paradise Park one may step directly upon its fissured surface. The Nisqually Glacier is five miles long and at Paradise Park is half a mile wide. Glistening white and fairly smooth at its shining source on the mountain’s summit, its surface here is soiled with dust and broken stone and squeezed and rent by terrible pressure into fantastic shapes. Innumerable crevasses, or cracks many feet deep, break across it caused by the more rapid movement of the glacier’s middle than its edges; for glaciers, like rivers of water, develop swifter currents nearer midstream. Professor Le Conte tells us that the movement of Nisqually Glacier in summer averages, at midstream, about sixteen inches a day. It is far less at the margins, its speed being retarded by the friction of the sides. | Like all glaciers, the Nisqually gathers on its surface masses of rock with which it strews its sides just as rivers of water strew their banks with rocks and floating débris. These are called lateral moraines, or side moraines. Some- times glaciers build lateral moraines miles long. The. Nisqually ice is four hun- dred feet thick in places. ) , The rocks which are carried in midstream to the a of the glacier and dropped when the ice melts are called the terminal moraine. | The end, or snout, of the glacier thus always lies among a great mass of rocks and stones. The Nisqually River generally flows from a cave in the end of the Nisqually Glacier’s snout. The river is dark brown when it first appears because it carries sediment and powdered rock which, however, it soon deposits, becoming clear. But this brief picture of the Mount Rainier ‘Natioaal Park would miss its loveliest touch without some notice of the wild-flower parks lying at the base, and often reaching far up between the icy fingers, of Mount Rainier. “Above the forests,’ writes John Muir, the celebrated naturalist, “there is a zone of the loveliest flowers, fifty miles in circuit and nearly two miles wide, so closely planted and luxurious that it seems as if nature, glad to make an open space between woods so dense and ice so deep, were economizing the precious ground and trying to see how many of her darlings she can get together in one mountain wreath—daisies, anemones, columbine, erythroniums, larkspurs, etc., among which we wade knee-deep and waist-deep, the bright corollas in myriads touching petal to petal. Altogether this is the richest subalpine garden I have ever found, a perfect flower elysium.”’ (96) Photograph by Curtis J Miller Mount Apams FROM Mount RarinrER—Forty MILes SOUTHWARD 81741°—28 iI (97) UOIJINIJSUOD IOpUN SI UOI{DIS sTy} O} peor vB ynq ‘ARITIGISsoDdeUI $I 0} SUIMO ‘sIORISIA May AQ UDIS useq sey odojs qiodns sty], ‘“spuersnoy} Auew jo uapies oinsvoid pure yi[eesy sy sWOdI9q UOOS [IM JoIUTeY JUNOT Jo odojs JsamyqoU 9y J, . MUVg AVUdS ajivag ‘suvmoy *d “4 84 ‘E06T ‘parysskdog Photograph by Curtis F Miller BEAUTIFUL PARADISE VALLEY SHOWING THE TaToosH RIDGE Photograph by Curtis F Miller Timper Line AND FLOWER FIeELps IN BEAUTIFUL PARADISE VALLEY (99) Avme sopiur AIO} SISTUI DY} UI 3SOT SI SUdPTT “IG JUNO], “sAIUOFT UeIpPUT ie IYSIoy e Woz Udye] sem ydessojoyd sry], SHVAg NIVINAOJ LNVISIQ-AV,J ANV ‘SUdIOVID ONINALSIID) ‘SdOJ, ADOVUD STVAYALN] LV AOUINY HOIHA\ WOU ‘SAATIVA AHL OLNI LSIJ] AO SVAG ONISSO], TIOY NALIQ SONINUOTY ANT, 4 G3 Sang &q ydossoI04q (100) STIV NIMSINTS Jap Sy stung 64 ygvsdoI0yg STIV yy LAWO-) 47W $3 syanry &q y¢v4s3040Y J (101) Photograph by A. H. Barnes Snow Cups (102) ORTH-SIDE GEM OF BEAUTY Mowicu Lake, a N ALASKA Doc TEAM IN PARADISE VALLEY inter sports season f the w iversions oO ing on this sledge is one of the popular d id R (103) Photograbh by Ranapar Studio ParapisE INN, IN PaRADISE VALLEY ee ee ee Only 15 minutes’ walk from Nisqually Glacier, which may be seen crushing down the mountain side (104) Photograph by Ranapar Studio ro a a a O A Zi x 5 fry ey S) op) fp fp) a % ° = bt Oo 5 =) eZ rr Ee op) = 0 Wer K . pa 2) dp) io) io) ea} 4 ‘= | a i XY ee al e) ‘= S @) a 2) (e) © H ea) Boa pea ke: i¢ 9) pet io) en) fb Aa fy as BR ie) id) fH im fe) BR EB .@) S M oe) 2) H Photograph by Fred H Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service Tue PHantom SHip—STRANDED On a Macic SHORE THE LAKE OF MYSTERY RATER LAKE is the deepest and the bluest fresh-water lake in the world. It measures two thousand feet of solid water, and the intensity of its color is unbelievable even while you look at it. Its cliffs from sky line to surface average over a thousand feet high. It has no visible inlet or outlet, for it occupies the hole left when, in the dim ages before man, a volcano collapsed and disappeared within itself. It is a gem of wonderful color in a setting of pearly lavas relieved by patches of pine green and snow white—a gem which changes hue with every atmospheric change and every shift of light. There are crater lakes in other lands; in Italy, for instance, in Germany, India, and Hawaii. The one lake of its kind in the United States is by far the finest of its kind in the world. It is one of the most distinguished spots in a land notable for the nobility and distinction of its scenery. Crater Lake lies in southern Oregon. The volcano whose site it has usurped was one of a “noble band of fire mountains, which, like beacons, once blazed along the Pacific coast.’’ Because of its unique character and quite extraordinary beauty it was made a national park in 1902. (109) Photograph by Patterson Tue Sun Piays WonpERFUL Tricks WitTH Licuts AND SHADOWS (110) eee, SEA OF SILENCE”? EARLY every visitor to Crater Lake, even the most prosaic, describes it as mysterious. To those who have not seen it, the adjective is difficult to analyze, but the fact remains. The explanation may lie in Crater Lake’s remarkable color scheme. The infinite range of grays, silvers, and pearls in the carved and fretted lava walls, the glinting white of occasional snow patches, the olives and pine greens of woods and mosses, the vivid, cloud-flecked azure of the sky, and the lake’s thousand shades of blue, from the brilliant turquoise of its edges to the black blue of its depths of deepest shadow, strike into silence the least impressionable observers. ‘‘’The Sea of Silence,’ Joaquin Miller calls Crater Lake. With changing conditions of sun and air, this amazing spectacle changes key with the passing hours; and it is hard to say which is its most rapturous condition of beauty, that of cloudless sunshine or that of twilight shadow; or of what intermediate degree, or of storm or of shower or of moonlight or of starlight. At times the scene changes magically while you watch. Photograph by Patterson EvenING SHADOWS (111) Copyright by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oreg. A Scenic Tapestry VIEWED FROM THE Rim TRAIL (112) Photograph by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oreg. CLIFFS OF A THousAND Pearty Hues FAntTasTICALLy CARVED 81741 °—28——8 (113) 3181S UISIIA e ul SJSoIOJ UI9]SoM jeordAy JO JIQIYXe [NfJJQPUOM ® ST yied 24 L FONVULNG HLVNVIY FHT, uossayog X49 143146 ¢07 ee) Wd a: NOILUN SevT 4 MM ee « ee 2 ¥ ae 4 eas * & he i eT, es pine vee 6 oe ; “ae oa a Cd wit Sgt Crater Lake. STORY OF MOUNT MAZAMA EW of the astonishing pictures which geology has restored for us of this world in its making are so startling as that of Mount F Mazama, which once reared a smoking peak many thousands of feet above the present peaceful level of Crater Lake. There were many noble volcanoes in the range: Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, Mount Adams, Mount St. Helens, Lassen Peak, Mount Mazama, Mount Hood, Mount Shasta. Once their vomitings built the great Cascade Mountains. To-day, cold and silent, they stand wrapped in shining armor of ice. ? But not all. One is missing. Where Mount Mazama reared his noble head, there is nothing—until you climb the slopes once his foothills, and gaze spellbound over the broken lava cliffs into the lake which lies magically where once he stood. ‘The story of the undoing of Mount Mazama, of the birth of this wonder lake, is one of the great stories of the earth. - Mount Mazama fell into itself. It is as if some vast cavern formed in the earth's seething interior into which the entire volcano suddenly slipped. The imagination of Doré might have reproduced some hint of the titanic spectacle of the disappearance of a mountain fifteen thousand feet in height. When Mount Mazama collapsed into this vast hole, leaving clean cut the edges which to-day are Crater Lake’s surrounding cliffs, there was instantly a surging back. The crumbling lavas were forced again up the huge chimney. ‘But not all the way. The vent became jammed. In three spots only did the fires emerge again. Three small volcanoes formed in the hollow. But these in turn soon choked and cooled. During succeeding ages springs poured their waters into the vast cavity, and Crater Lake was born. Its rising waters covered two of the small volcanic cones. The third still emerges. It is called Wizard Island. Scott Ph. oe ry Y Uw a Glacier Pk. gli Llao Rock 25 hi Photograph by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oreg. SUNSET THE LEGEND OF Gee CCORDING to the legend of the Klamath and Modoc Indians the mystic land of Gaywas was the home of the great god Llao. His throne in the infinite depths of the blue waters was surrounded by his warriors, giant crawfish able to lift great claws out of the water and seize too venturesome enemies on the cliff tops. War broke out with Skell, the god of the neighboring Klamath Marshes. Skell was killed and his heart used for a ball by Llao’s monsters. But an eagle, one of Skell’s servants, captured it in flight, and escaped with it; and Skell’s body grew again around his living heart. Once more he was powerful, and once more he waged war against the God of the Lake. Then Llao was captured; but he was not so fortunate. Upon the highest cliff his body was torn into fragments and cast into the lake, and eaten by his own monsters under the belief that it was Skell’s body. But when Llao’s head was thrown in, the monsters recognized it, and would not eat it. Llao’s head still lies in the lake, and white men call it Wizard Island. And the cliff where Llao was torn to pieces is named Llao Rock. (116) Ee a ee a Photograph by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oreg. OFTEN THE TREES ARE AS GNARLED AND KNOTTED AS THE CLIFFS THEY GROW ON (117) Photograph by U.S. Bachan Seroice Looxinc Down INTO THE CRATER OF Wi1zARD ISLAND VIEWED FROM THE RIM EVERAL days may profitably be spent upon the rim of the lake, which one may travel afoot, on horseback, or by automobile. The endless variety of lava formations and of color variation may be here studied to the best advantage. The temperature of the water has been the subject of much investigation. The average observations of years show that, whatever may be the surface variations, the temperature of the water below a depth of three hundred feet continues approximately thirty-nine degrees the year around. This disposes of the theory that the depths of the lake are affected by volcanic heat. “Apart from its attractive scenic features,” writes J. S. Diller of the United States Geological Survey, “Crater Lake affords one of the most interesting and instructive fields for the study of volcanic geology to be found anywhere in the world. Considered in all its aspects, it ranks with the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, the Yosemite Valley, and the Falls of Niagara, but with an individuality that is superlative.”’ (118) Copyright by Patterson PinnacLe Formations In SAND CREEK VALLEY, ForMED By EROSION (119) Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service TH GENERAL View Across Crater Lake NEAR SENTINEL Rock, SHOWING SME NortHern SHore Line, witH Rep Cone 1n THE MippLE Distance et or mec. These cliffs vary from a thousand to twelve hundred feet high, occasionally rising to two thousand fe The first effect of a view across the lake is to fill the observer with awe and a deep sense of mystery (120) (121) Copyright by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oreg. - CLOSE-UP VIEW OF PHANTOM SHIP, WITH WIZARD ISLAND IN BACKGROUND Copyright by Fred Kiser, Portland, Oreg. WizArRp ISLAND A volcano built up within a volcano—a crater within a crater (122) AUALSAT\ AO dud HdSOWLY S aaV'T YALVA) SLSAONDNS ATONOULS HOIH MA “MOOY OVTT AO MATA 991849 UO1DUDIIIN mn a &q yG0413010Y J (123) Copyright by Fred H. Kiser Tue Bears Are THE Most INTERESTING OF THE Park’s WiL_p ANIMALS (124) 1cé 1 Park Sero Tue Morsrure-LApEN WINDS FROM THE Paciric Deposir THEIR SNow BuRDEN UPON EVERYTHING 1ONA Photograph by Nat 1cé tonal Park Sero Nat Tue WINTER Contrast BETWEEN THE SNOW BuRDENED CLIFFS AND TREES AND THE Dark WATER IS Photograph by VERY STRIKING (125) THE MINE OF BEA Copyright by Patterson Virw FROM THE Rim Roan, WuicH ComMpLeTELY ENcIRCLES THE LAKE (126) RATER LAKH is seen in its glory from a launch. One may.float for days upon its sur- face without sating one’s sense of delighted surprise; for all is new again with every change of light. The Phantom Ship, for instance, sometimes wholly disappears. Now it is there, and a few minutes after, with new slants of light, it is gone—a phantom indeed. So it is with many headlands and ghostlike palisades. ‘ This lake was not discovered until 1853. Eleven Californians had undertaken once more the search for the famous, perhaps fabulous, Lost Cabin Mine. For many years parties had been searching the Cascades; again they had come into the Rogue River region. With all their secrecy their object became known, and a party of Oregonians was hastily organized to stalk them and share their find. The Californians dis- covered the pursuit and divided their party. The Oregonians did the same. It became a game of hide-and-seek. When provisions were nearly exhausted all the par- ties joined forces. “Suddenly we came in sight of water,’ writes J. W. Hillman, then the leader of the combined party; “we were much surprised, as we did not expect to see any lakes and did not know but that we had come in sight of and close to Klamath Lake. Not until my Photograph by Fred H, Kiser, Portland, Oreg. THE Favorite Way To SEE THE SCULPTURED Cuirrs Is From A Motor Boat mule stopped within a few feet of the rim of Crater Lake did I look down, and if I had been riding a blind mule I firmly believe I would have ridden over the edge to death.” It is interesting that the discoverers quarreled on the choice of a name, dividing between Mysterious Lake and Deep Blue Lake. The advocates of Deep Blue Lake won the vote, but in 1869 a visiting party from Jacksonville renamed it Crater Lake, and this, by natural right, became its title. HOTELS AND CAMPS _ . Crater Lake is accessible by both rail and highway. There are three excellent roads coming in the west, south, and east entrances. Comfortable hotel accommodations are available on the rim of the lake, and rental cabins, cafeteria, store, stage line, and boat service are also provided for the comfort of visitors. ‘The Government maintains a free automobile camp ground for the visiting motorist. (127) HARD-FIGHTING TROUT HIS magnificent body of cold fresh water originally contained no fish of any kind. A small crustacean was found in large numbers in its waters, the suggestion, no doubt, upon which was founded the Indian legend of the gigantic crawfish which formed the body- guard of the great god Llao. In 1888 Will G. Steel brought trout fry from a ranch fifty miles away, Photograph by Patterson THERE ARE NINE ForESTED Camp GROUNDS IN THE PaRK (128) but no fish were seen in the lake for more than a dozen years. Thena few were taken, one of ~which was fully thirty inches long. Since then trout have been taken in _ ever- increasing numbers, both by fly casting and trolling. Rainbow trout vary from one to ten pounds in weight. The Rogue River, which has its source partially within the park, is one of the most famous trout streams in the world, being the home of the phenome- nally game steelhead. Anglers of experience in western fishing have testified that, pound for pound, the trout taken in the cold deep waters of -.Crater Lake. ~are about the hardest-fight- ing trout of all. Some fish may be taken from the shore of Crater Lake, but the best fish- ing is to be had from boats. Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Seroice At THE Foot or THE TRAIL FRoM CRATER LAKE LODGE 81741°—28——9 (129) Photograph by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oreg. Across THE LAKE From THE Rm Roap [ Copyright by Patterson PES: CRATER Lake Lopce on THE Rim, 1,000 Freer Asove tHe LAKE - A 40 by. 60 foot lounge occupies the entire ground floor of the central unit of the building, without pillar or post ; and contains what is said to be the largest fireplace in Oregon ? ? (130) aa a s as < op Ga = ATIONAL N PARK (131) Aaqye A euInza}UOTY ay} saoqe 3095 008‘T ‘OploA esafy 241 Jo 90%} yqsoU ay) sITys peor sty 7. = | avVOY AONVULNY HIWON AO NOILOGG Aa y-FT4INY one Photograph by F. C. Jeep YESTERDAY AND To-Day COMMUNITIES of thePAST NE December day in 1888 Richard and Alfred Wetherell, searching for lost cattle on the Mesa Verde southwest of Mancos, Colorado, pushed through dense growths on the edge of a deep canyon and _|} shouted aloud in astonishment. Across the canyon, tucked into a shelf under the overhanging edge of the opposite brink, were the walls and towers of what seemed to them a palace. They named it Cliff Palace. Forgetting the cattle in their excitement, they searched the mesa in all directions. Near by, under the overhanging edge of another canyon, they found a similar group, no less majestic, which they named Spruce Tree House because a large spruce grew out of the ruins. Thus were discovered the most elaborate and best-preserved prehistoric cliff-dweller ruins in America, if not in the world. A careful search of the entire Mesa Verde in the years following has resulted in many other finds of interest and importance. In 1906 Congress set aside the region as a national park. Even yet its treasures of antiquity are not all known. A remarkable temple to the sun was unearthed in 1915. (133) ‘ i . ¢ : - AUTMANUHG GNV ‘SVQ , ¢ ¢ ¢ = of win GAAS “NONIG uvda’) Uad INNA [ IO YWAAO™) LSAAOY ASNAC] AHL AO aSNVOAG daWVN] OS SVM. ‘VSN Nadal) Xo ‘aqua A VSaJ aH I, . unogsnn “7 *[ &q y¢vs30j0y4g 5 (x34) ATLSANT SONITTAMC AIAIT) HHL ONVHAAAC) HASOHM YAAN/) SH4IT) AHL ATSNOLIAIOAUY ASIY “SAIV], ANNOY Ldnudy AHL AAOAY unogsnn “7 “[ 9 y¢vsso10yg = ey ce). we Photograph by Geo. L. Beam, Denver, Colo. Tue Sun Tempce, Looxinc Nortueast. (136) SHOWING AT LEFT THE STUMP OF CEDA TREE witH 360 ANNULAR Rincs Wuicu Was Cut Down Durinc ExcavaTION (137) ene SPRUCE TREE House Was Ampty ProTecTeD FROM THE Heavy WINTER SNOws (138) THE STORY OF THE MESAS HOSE who have trav- eled through our South- western States have seen from the car win- dows innumerable mesas or isolated pla- teaus rising abruptly for hundreds of feet from the bare and _ often arid plains. The word ‘mesa’? is Spanish for table. _ Once the level of these mesa tops was the level of all of. this vast southwestern coun- try, but the rains and floods of centuries have washed away the softer earths down to its pres- ent level, leaving stand- ing only the rocky spots or those so covered with surface rocks that the rains could not reach the softer strata under- neath. geek Navajo InpIANsS CONSTITUTE THE BULK OF THE PARK’S Lagporinc Forces. AT THE EVENING Camp Fire THEY’ Give THEIR YEBECHAI DANCE The Mesa Verde (called verde or green because of the heavy forest cover) is one of the great mesas, being approximately fifteen miles long and eight miles wide, and perhaps the most widely known in the Southwest. The surface of this great table-land, rising abruptly one thousand to two thousand five hundred feet above the surrounding valleys, is gashed by a great series of precipitous canyons, and in the great caves in the sheer canyon walls the ruins of the ancient cliff dwellers are found. ‘The most important ruins are located in Rock, Long, Wickiup, Navajo, Spruce, Soda, Moccasin, and tributary canyons. (139) IN THE CLIFF DWELLINGS IFE must have been difficult in this dry country when the Mesa Verde communities flourished in the sides of these sandstone cliffs. |. Game was scarce and hunting arduous. The Mancos River yielded a few fish. The earth contributed berries or nuts. Water was rare and found only in sequestered places near the heads of the canyons. Nevertheless, the inhabitants cultivated their farms and raised their corn, which they ground on flat stones called metates. They baked their bread on flat stone griddles. They boiled their meat in well-made vessels some of which were artistically decorated. Their life was difficult, but confidently did they peliewé that they were dependent upon the gods to make the rain fall and the corn grow. They were a religious people who worshipped the sun as the father of all and the - earth as the mother who brought them all their material blessings. They pos- sessed no written language and could only record their thoughts by a few sym- bols which they painted on their earthenware jars or scratched on the rocks. As their sense of beauty was keen, their art, though primitive, was true; rarely realistic, generally symbolic. Their decoration of cotton fabrics and ceramic work might be called beautiful, even when judged by the highly devel- oped taste of to-day. They fashioned axes, spear points, and rude tools of stone; they wove sandals and made attractive basketrv. , They were not content with rude buildings and had long outgrown the caves that satisfied less civilized Indians farther north and south of them. — The photographs of Cliff Palace on the following three pages will show not — only the protection afforded by the overhanging cliffs but the general scheme of community living. The population was composed of a series of units, possibly clans, each of which had its own social organization more or less distinct from the others. Each had ceremonial rooms, called kivas. Each also had living rooms and storerooms. There were twenty-three social units or clans in Cliff Palace. The kivas were the rooms where the men spent most of the time devoted to ceremonies, councils, and other gatherings. ‘The religious fraternities were limited to the men of a clan. (140) Curr Patace Wiru Irs Two HunprRED anp Two Rooms anp [Twenty-ITHREE Kivas Is THE LARGEST AND Best PRESERVED OF THE Known CLIFF DWELLINGS (141) Photograph by Geo. L. Beam, Denver, Colo. Sun TEMPLE ON ExtrReME RIGHT . b] Looxinc Across CiirF CANYON FROM CLIFF PALACE IN DIsTANCE ON Top oF CLIFF (x42) Photograph by Arthur Chapman THE SPEAKER CuleF’s House Occupies A COMMANDING PosiTION IN CLIFF PALACE 4 Re é ae Photograph by Arthur Ch oman NorTHEAST QUARTER OF CLIFF PALACE (143) Photograph by T. G. Lemmon STONES FROM SUN TEMPLE COVERED WITH GEOMETRICAL AND EMBLEMATICAL DEsIGNs THE MESA’S LITTLE PEOPLE NDIANS of to-day shun the ruins of the Mesa Verde. They believe them inhabited by spirits whom they call the Little People. It is vain to tell them that the Little People were probably their own ancestors; they refuse to believe it. S When the national park telephone line was building in 1915 the Indians were greatly excited. Coming to the Superintendent’s office, they shook their heads ominously. The poles wouldn’t stand up, they declared. Why? Because the Little People wouldn’t like such an uncanny thing as a telephone. 4 But poles were standing, the Superintendent pointed out. All right, the — Indians replied, but wait. The wires wouldn’t talk. Little People wouldn’t — like it, tte The poles were finally all in and the wires strung. What was more, the wires actually did talk and are still talking. e Never mind, say the Indians, with unshaken faith. Never mind. Wait. That’s all. It will come. The Little People may stand it—for a while. But wait. The Superintendent is still waiting. (144) Photograph by F. C. Jeep ConsTRUCTIVE DETAIL oF SouTH WALL, SUN TEMPLE DISCOVERY OF SUN TEMPLE NTIL the summer of 1915 no structures had been discovered in the Mesa Verde except those of the cliff-dwelling type. Then the Department of the Interior explored a mound on the top of the mesa opposite Cliff Palace and unearthed Sun Temple. Dr. J. Walter Fewkes, who conducted the exploration, believes that this was built about 1300 A. D. and marks the final stage in Mesa Verde development. Sun Temple was a most important discovery. It marked a long advance toward civilization. It occupied a commanding position convenient to many large inhabited cliff dwellings. Its masonry showed growth in the art of con- struction. Its walls were embellished by geometrical figures carved in rock. New types of ruins antedating by centuries: those of the Cliff Dwellers have been found more recently. The new park: museum contains exhibits of the artifacts of all these cultural types. | DRAWING SHOWING CONSTRUCTIVE DETAIL OF SUN TEMPLE 81741°—28——10 (145) MopeE.t or Far View House Photograph by George L. Beam EXxcAVATING Far ViEw HousE ON THE Top OF THE MESA (146) Spruce TREE House Hives UnpEerR A HuGE OVERHANGING CLIFF THE PRINCIPAL DWELLINGS LIFF PALACE is the most celebrated of the Mesa Verde ruins because it is the largest and most prominent. Others are no less interesting and important. Spruce Tree House is next in size; Balcony House and Square Tower House are equally well preserved. There are hundreds of others, some of which have yet to be thoroughly explored; probably some are still undiscovered. Cliff Palace is three hundred feet long; Spruce Tree House two hundred and sixteen. Cliff Palace contained over two hundred rooms; Spruce Tree House a hundred and fourteen. Spruce Tree House originally had three stories. Its population was probably three hundred and fifty. The Round Tower in Cliff Palace is an object of unusual interest. The kivas or ceremonial rooms were usually round, subterranean rooms of more or less uniform size, construction, and arrangement. Except ina few notable cases they were entered by means of a ladder through the roof or hatchway. (147) see ae 6 “ini? ™ = AE Photograph by Arthur Chapman Front FAcADE oF SpRUCE TREE HousE (148 DESCENDING THE KwniFE-EpcE Curr To PHOTOGRAPH A GOLDEN Eac.Le’s NEsT (149) Photograph by John P. Dods Most or Mesa VERDE’s TRAVEL Is BY Photograph by John P. Dods Navajo WEAVERS CoME TO THE PARK TO (50) Photographs by J. L. Nusbaum TypicaL SKULLS OF PrEHIsTORIC Man Founp 1n THE Mesa VERDE The use of an unpadded cradle-board in childhood flattened the rear of the skull, giving unusual breadth to the face. Nordenskidld concludes that the race was fairly robust, with heavy skeletons and strong muscular processes. The facial bones are well developed and lower jaw heavy MESA VERDE’S NATURAL SCENERY ESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK is in the extreme southwestern corner of Colorado and is reached from the rail points of Mancos, Colorado, and Gallup, New Mexico, by motor stage or private automobile. ‘The finest of the scenic mountain highways of Colorado invite the motorist visiting this area, and the highway from Gallup across the Navajo Indian Reservation is excellent. Apart from the ruins the country is one of spectacular beauty and weird charm. As one ascends the mesa tremendous expanses of the diversified terrain of the adjacent corners of the States of Colorado, Utah, New Mexico, and Arizona come into view—the snow covered La Platas, San Juans, and Ricos, of Colorado; the La Sals and Blues of Utah; the Carrizos of Arizona, and the Lukachukais, Tunichas, and Chuskas of the Navajo Reservation of New Mexico, with the great monolith of Shiprock, fifty miles distant, basking in the foreground, like a windjammer under full sail. (151) ASNOY] ANOOIVG OL AONVULNY AHI, Tivay, FHT Gaal "Dy 89 ytvs30j04g (152) Photograph by Pen Dike Studio Batcony House Is ONE or THE Most INTERESTING AND Best PRESERVED THe Curr Dwe.iers Utiuizep ALL Protectep SPACE WITHIN THE CaAvVEs (154) GLACIER NATIONAL PARK (155) Copyright by Hileman Mount CLEVELAND, HicHEsT SUMMIT IN GLACIER (156) f Copyright by Hileman GUNSIGHT Pass FROM SHORE OF GUNSIGHT LAKE mweeAL PINE PARADISE OTWITHSTANDING the sixty glaciers from which it derives its name, the Glacier National Park is chiefly remarkable for its pic- turesquely modeled peaks, the unique quality of its mountain masses, its gigantic precipices, and the romantic loveliness of its two hundred and fifty lakes. - Though most of our national parks possess similar general features in addi- tion to those which sharply differentiate each from every other, the Glacier National Park shows them in special abundance and unusually happy combi- nation. In fact, it is the quite extraordinary, almost sensational, massing of these scenic elements which gives it its marked individuality. The broken and diversified character of this scenery, involving rugged mountain tops bounded by vertical walls sometimes more than four thousand feet high, glaciers perched upon lofty rocky shelves, unexpected waterfalls of peculiar charm, rivers of milky glacier water, lakes unexcelled for sheer beauty by the most celebrated of sunny Italy and snow-topped Switzerland, and grandly timbered slopes sweeping into valley bottoms, offer a continuous yet ever changing series of inspiring vistas not to be found in such luxuriance and per- fection elsewhere. Glacier National Park lies in western Montana, abutting the Canadian boundary. Waterton Lakes Park joins it on the Canadian side. (157) ay ae ei eee. Wy Barber 1% Photograph by Beatr CRACKER LAKE AND SIYEH GLACIER (158) Copyright by Hileman SCARFACE PoINT, ON THE GARDEN WALL TRAIL (159) HHAIG dO SNAGUVS) UAMOTJT FHL WOUd ‘SSVg NVOAIG UVAN NIVINAO| NvOaIg 2910495 ys gq pouounony Kg y¢os20104 Tq $103 uleq{UNoyy AYIOY JO JUNLY BIIOAPF & SI UOIsd1 SIUT, “BoTIowW Vy Ul JSo[qou 94} fo 9UO SI ¢ JYyZII 94} UO ‘UIYJUNOTY [[PUULIOH “UleJUNOJT pP[Noyy si Ie] 242 UC SUALV AA TWIOWVTIL) ANTIPA, ATLUV SLT SHATHAC LI JONAH ‘TAOEY UAIOVTIL) TIANNIUL) ANOSAUNLIIT AHL HLIM 4ANVT TIANNIUL) SQOWNV "SalQ ‘punp1og ‘sasty “PY patsy &Q y¢vssooyg (161) II 28 81741° MAKING A NATIONAL PARK OW nature, just how many millions of years ago no man can esti- mate, made the Glacier National Park is a stirring story. | Once this whole region was covered with the prehistoric sea. The earthy sediments deposited by this water hardened into rocky strata. If you were in the park to-day you would see broad horizontal streaks of variously colored rock in the mountain masses thousands of feet above you. They are discernible in the photographs in this book. They are the very strata that the waters deposited in their depths in those far-away ages. How they got from the seas’ bottoms to the mountains’ tops is the story. 7 GR = | In the settling of the earth’s masses into their present shape, mountain > ranges have arisen from the sea by internal pres- sures. Just as the squeezed orange bulges in places, so this region was forced upward. Then it cracked and the western edge of the earth’s skin was thrust far over the eastern edge. The edge thus thrust over was many thousands of feet thick and disclosed all the geological strata which had been deposited at that time. In the many centuries of centuries since all these strata have been washed away except the bottom. layer of the over- thrust skin. The rock thus disclosed is at least eighty millions of yearsold. Itis the same rock as the Grand Canyon. Glacier National Parkis the Canadian Rock- ies done in Grand Canyon > colors. Frost and rain and glaciers have marvelously — Photograph by Ellis Prentice Cole ‘ carved ya ee IcEBERG Lake WHERE FLoks Drirt In Aucust (162) Photograph by A. S. Thiri THe CriRcULAR WALL ON THE Lert INcLosEs ICEBERG LAKE. THE ENoRMOUS CIRQUE ON THE RIGHT, WITH Lake HELEN SHowN IN THE Lower Ricut-Hanp CoRNER, IS THE SoURCE OF THE SouTH ForK oF THE BELLY River. ‘THE PHOTOGRAPH Rene ceLy ILLUSTRATES THE WORKMANSHIP OF ANCIENT GLACIERS THROUGHOUT THE PARK THE CARVING OF GLACIER HE titanic overthrust which makes Glacier what it is was not accom- plished all at once. The movement covered millions of years; change might even have been imperceptible in the life of one living there— though this was long before man. And during these same many millions of years frost and water and wind and glacier erosion were wiping off the upper strata and carving the ancient rocks that still remain into the thing of beauty that Glacier is to-day. | To picture this region, imagine a chain of very lofty mountains twisting about like a worm, spotted with snow fields and bearing glistening glaciers. Imagine them flanked everywhere by lesser peaks and tumbled mountain masses of smaller size in whose hollows lie the most beautiful lakes you have ever dreamed of. Those who have seen the giant glaciers of Mount Rainier or the Alps will here see what glaciers of much greater size accomplished in ages past. Iceberg Lake, for example, is a mighty bowl shaped like a horseshoe, with sides more than two thousand feet high. A glacier hollowed it. Just north of it, the Belly Glacier hollowed another mammoth bowl of even greater depth; the wall divid- ing them is seen in the photograph on this page. Vast pits such as these were dug by prehistoric glaciers into both sides of the mountains. Often they nearly met, leaving precipitous walls. Sometimes they met; thus were created the passes. (163) Baker CIRQUE AT THE Heap oF Cut BANK RIVER Photograph by A. J. SHow1inc Mount MorcGan > (164) Copyright by Hileman SwITCHBACKS ON SWIFTCURRENT Mountains (165) ITS LAKES AND VALLEYS HE supreme glory of the Glacier National Park is its lakes. The world has none to surpass, perhaps few to equal them. Some are valley gems grown to the water’s edge with forests. Some are cradled among precipices. Some float ice fields in midsummer. From the Continental Divide seven principal valleys drop precipitously upon the east, twelve sweep down the longer western slopes. Each valley holds between its feet its greater lake to which are tributary many smaller lakes of astonishing wildness, On the east side St. Mary Lake is destined to world-wide celebrity, but sO also is Lake Mc Donald on the west side. These are the largest in the park. But some, perhaps many, of the smaller lakes are candidates for beauty’s highest honors. Of these, Lake Mc- Dermott with its munaretted peaks stands first—perhaps because best known, for here is one of the finest hotels in any national park and a luxurious camp. Upper Two Medicine Lake is another east-side candidate widely known be- cause of its accessibility, while far to the north the Belly River Valley, diffi- cult to reach and seldom seen, holds lakes, fed by eighteen glaciers, which will compare with Switzerland’s noblest. The west-side valleys north of Mc-_ Donald constitute a little-known wil- derness of the earth’s choicest scenery, destined to future appreciation. — The Continental Divide is usually crossed by the famous Gunsight Pass Trail, which skirts giant precipices and develops sensational vistas in its ser- Pia by Fred H. Kiser, SLAY. Ae pentine course. (166) sae 5 : B Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service Birtu oF A CLoup ON THE Si1pE oF Mount Rockxwe.t., Two Mepicine LAKE Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service Earty Morninc Croup Errects at Two Mepicine LAKE Romantic Rising-Wolf Mountain is seen in middle distance (167) = —_ Copyright by Hileman EVEMENT It 1s THE Romantic, ALMosT SENSATIONAL Massinc or ExTRAORDINARY SCENIC F - Wauicu Gives THe Giacrer Nationat Park Its Marken Inprvipuatity Beautiful Lake McDermott, in Many Glicier region, Many Glacier Hotel to the left (168) (169) Copyright by Hileman b- CLIMBING STARK PEAK WITH GUIDE (170) Copyright by Hileman Party on Mount STARK WITH GUIDE COMFORT AMONG GLACIERS LACIER NATIONAL PARK has two railroad entrances. From Glacier Park, the eastern entrance, auto stages take the visitor to Two Medicine, McDermott, and St. Mary Lakes, where launch rides may be taken. Glacier Park Hotel at the railway station, and Many Glacier Hotel at Lake McDermott, are modern hotels. At Two Medicine Lake, Cut Bank Creek, St. Mary Lake, and Lake McDermott are comfortable chalets reached by auto or by auto and launch. Granite Park and Sperry Chalets are reached only by horseback or hiking, as are the camps at Crossley Lake and Waterton Lake, and Fifty Mountain Camp on Flat Top Mountain. | The visitor choosing the west entrance, at Belton, will find camps and chalets there, and auto service to the hotel at the head of beautiful Lake McDonald. ‘This trip also may be made by a combination of automobile and boat. Lake McDonald Camp and Skyland Camps, both reached by auto, provide comfortable accommodations. Motor travel will not be possible between the east and west sides until the Transmountain Road is completed, probably about 1930. (171) ele Pa # ai = % Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service To THE Victor BELONG THE SPoILs Mary Roberts Rinehart lunching after a morning’s trouting on Flathead River (172) Copyright by Hileman BrautiruL LakE McDona tp, Looxinc Nortueast—Mount CANNON IN THE MIDDLE DISTANCE Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service Ture ComrorTABLeE Hotret Near THE Heap or LAkeE McDonatp (173) Photograph by National Park Service fy Oo = a e2) Ay es) UO 24 (e) AY A q < [ea] Z Vale, with its three shelved lakes lying two thousand feet sheer be- low ‘Taylors Peak. Adjoining is Glacier Gorge at the foot of the precipitous north slope of Longs Peak, holding in rocky embrace its own group of three lakelets. The Wild Basin, with its wealth of lake and precipice, still remains unexploited and known to few. Few Mountain Gorces ARE So IMPRESSIVELY BEAUTIFUL AS LocH VALE (191) Copyright by F. P. Clatworthy Nymeu LAKE AND Ha.uetr PEAK (192) Photograph by Wiswall Brothers Sky Ponp anp Taytor Peak, WiLD GaRDENS 81741°—28—13 (193) Photograph by Enos Mills Photograph by George C. Barnard, Denver An IDEAL COUNTRY FOR WINTER SporRTS (194) Photograph by Wiswall Brothers BiueBirD Lake, WiLp Basin (195) Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service OpessA Lake Is Atmost EncircLeD By SNOW-SPATTERED SUMMITS (196) Se tes Se Sti hus Ehsatns Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service SpRUCE-GIRDLED Fern Lake, SHowiNG LitrLE MATTERHORN IN MrppLe DIsTANCE (197) METROPOLIS of BEAVERLAND Copyright by Wiswall Brothers, Denver An Aspen TuicketT Trait Is a Pata oF DELIGHT 4 ; (198) HE visitor will not forget the aspens in the Rocky Mountain National Park. Their white trunks and branches and their luxuriant bright green foliage are never out of sight. A trail through an aspen thicket is a path of delight. Because of the unusual aspen growths, the region is the favored home of beavers, who make the tender bark their principal food. Beaver dams block countless streams and beaver houses emerge from the still ponds above. In some retired spots the engineering feats of gener- ations of beaver families may be traced in all their considerable range. Nowhere is the picturesqueness of timber line more quickly and more easily seen. A horse after early breakfast, a steep mountain trail, an hour of unique enjoyment, and one may be back for late luncheon. | Eleven thousand feet up, the winter struggles between trees and icy gales are grotesquely exhibited. The first sight of luxuriant En- gelmann spruces creeping closely upon the ground instead of rising a hundred and fifty feet straight and true as masts is not soon forgotten. Many stems strong enough to partly defy the winters’ gales grow bent in half circles. Others, starting straight in shelter of some large rock, bend at right angles where they emerge above it. Many succeed in lifting their trunks but not in growing © branches except in their lee, thus suggesting great evergreen dust brushes. Photograph by Enos Mills BEAVER Dams Biock CounTLESS STREAMS ere >. é " IND-[ WISTED TREES AT TIMBER LINE W 1S France J. Photograph by F. (199) A VERITABLE Kinc or Mountains CALMLY OvERLOOKING ALL His REALM This is the very heart of the Rockies; few photo8™phs so fully express the spirit of the Snowy Range ? Mipway or THE Rance, Loncs Peax Rears His STATELY, SQUARE-CROWNED #EAD (201) (200) x Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service THe STANLEY HoTeL anp Manor EASY TO REACH AND TO SEE — JJHE accessibility of the Rocky Mountain National Park is apparent by a glance at any map. Denver is less than thirty hours from St. Louis and Chicago, two days only from New York. Four hours from Denver will put you in Estes Park. Once there, comfortable in one of its many hotels of varying range of tariff, and the summits and the gorges of this mountain-top paradise resolve them- selves into a choice between foot and horseback. | There are also a few most comfortable houses and several somewhat primi- tive camps within the park’s boundaries at the very foot of its noblest scenery. die ee Photograph by F. P. Clatwo “3 rthy GRAND LAKE (202) (2) aD ee GRAND CANYON NATIONAL “By Far tHe Most SusiimME or ALL EARTHLY SPECTACLES 7 CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER (203) Photograph by George R. Ring “It Is BEyonp Compartson—Beyonp Description; ABSOLUTELY UNPARALLELED THROUGHOUT THE WIDE WorLD.”—THEODORE ROOSEVELT (204) ‘ i E } i & : L D Photograph by Fred Harvey Leavinc Ex. Tovar For A ScENIC TRIP COLOSSUS of CANYONS ORE mysterious in its depth than the Himalayas in their height,” writes Professor John C. Van Dyke, “the Grand Canyon remains not the eighth but the first wonder of the world. There is nothing like it.’’ Even the most superficial description of this enormous spectacle may not be put in words. The wanderer upon the rim overlooks a thousand square miles of pyramids and minarets carved from the painted depths. Many miles away and more than a mile below the level of his feet he sees a tiny silver thread which he knows is the giant Colorado. He is numbed by the spectacle. At first he can not comprehend it. There is no measure, nothing which the eye can grasp, the mind fathom. It may be hours before he can even slightly adjust himself to the titanic spectacle, before it ceases to be utter chaos; and not until then does he begin to exclaim in rapture. And he never wholly adjusts himself, for with dawning appreciation comes growing wonder. Comprehension lies always just beyond his reach. The Colorado River is formed by the confluence of the Grand and the Green Rivers. ‘Together they gather the waters of three hundred thousand square miles. Their many canyons reach this magnificent climax in northern Arizona. ‘The Grand Canyon became a national park in February, 1919. (205) ap ea NGUAY YdAW SNOILMHONO?) AWITANS Kaan yy patsy £9 1ys148G0r-) ALLNIA\ WVITIIA\—., LSOJ UITH iT NI NOLIIJ] YON FINV(] YAHLIGN SV HONG ‘ALITVLIA TN4LHOTY] JO LAX ANV NOILVIOSA(] ATLSVHD) 40 LNVASV V,, 206) ( “TVASWIYg ‘OINSOD qa NHO{—,."aZIS GNV ALNVAG S,HLUVi AO ASNAS MAN V SMOLSA ‘INAGOL) OS SSANATIM ‘duO\\ AJNOLG ALHOIP ANC NI TIV AAVIN OL AYNLVN NAA YOd LNAWALVLS OILNVDIL) V,, Kaasv py pasy &q 143148d0p (207) Photograph by Henry Fuermann Tue Rim Roap Arrorps Many G.iorious VIEWS BY SUNSET AND MOONRISE HEN the light falls into it, harsh, direct, and searching,’ writes Hamlin Garland, “it is great, but not beautiful. The lines are chaotic, disturbing—but wait! The clouds and the sunset, the moonrise and the storm, will transform it into a splendor no mountain range can surpass. Peaks will shift and glow, walls darken, crags take fire, and gray-green mesas, dimly seen, take on the gleam of opalescent lakes of mountain water.’’ Oh OE te sini an Copyright by Fred Harvey Hermit’s Rest, Near THE HEAD oF THE Hermit TRaiL TO THE RIVER (208) . Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service “Ts Any Fiery Mites or Moruer Eartu as FEARFUL, or Any Parr as FEARFUL, AS Futu or Giory, as Futt or Gop?”—Joaquin MILLER 81741°—28——14 (209) Photograph by Fred Harvey View From Lipan Pornt, OVERLOOKING CONFLUENCE OF LiTTLE CoLoRADO RIVER AND A SECTION OF THE PaInTED DESERT PAINTED IN MAGIC COLORS HE blues and the grays and the mauves and the reds are second in glory only to the canyon’s size and sculpture. The colors change with every changing hour. The morning and the evening shadows play magicians’ tricks. “It seems like a gigantic statement for even Nature to make all in one mighty stone word,’’ writes John Muir. ‘‘Wildness so Godful, cosmic, prime- val, bestows a new sense of earth’s beauty and size. . . . But the colors, the living, rejoicing colors, chanting morning and evening in chorus to heaven! Whose brush or pencil, however lovingly inspired, can give us these? In the supreme flaming glory of sunset the whole canyon is transfigured, as if the life and light of centuries of sunshine stored up in the rocks was now being poured forth as from one glorious fountain, flooding both earth and sky.” (210) Photograph by Fred Harvey Near tHe Borrom or THE Canyon, SHowinc Hermit Camp aT THE Foor oF a Lorry MonuMENT (211) Photograph by H. T. Cowling THE Prorounp ABYSS ROMANTIC INDIAN LEGEND HE Indians believed the Grand Canyon the road to heaven. A great chief mourned the death of his wife. To him came the god Ta-vwoats and offered to prove that his wife was in a hap- pier land by taking him there to look upon her happiness. Ta- vwoats then made a trail through the protecting mountains and led the chief — to the happy land. Thus was created the canyon gorge of the Colorado. SS On their return, lest the unworthy should find this happy land, Ta-vwoats rolled through the trail a wild, surging river. Thus was created the Colorado. a (212) TT, qeqreyy 942 JO OOF oY} 1¥ JOATY OpesojOD 9y} ueds 0} sd1aJOG yIeg [euONeN oy} Aq yINg aoqdlugq NOISNadSsNg aVdIVy Kaalo jy patsy &q y¢os3010y4 J de Copyright by Fred Harvey ; 0 x Hort House at Et Tovar, REPRODUCED FROM AN ANCIENT Hopi ComMUNITY DWELLING (214) be Photograph by Fred Harvey Wuen Crioups anp Canyon MEET AND MERGE MASTERPIECE OF EROSION HE rain falling in the plowed field forms rivulets in the furrows. The rivulets unite in a muddy torrent in the roadside gutter. With suc- ceeding showers the gutter wears an ever-deepening channel in the soft soil. With the passing season the gutter becomes a gully. Here and there, in places, its banks undermine and fallin. Here and there the rivulets from the field wear tiny tributary gullies. Between the breaks in the banks and the tributaries irregular masses of earth remain standing, sometimes resembling mimic cliffs, sometimes washed and worn into mimic peaks and spires. Such roadside erosion is familiar to us all. A hundred times we have idly noted the fantastic water-carved walls and minaretted slopes of these ditches. But seldom, perhaps, have we realized that the muddy roadside ditch and the world-famous Grand Canyon of the Colorado are, from nature's stand- point, identical; that they differ only in soil and size. The arid States of our great Southwest constitute an enormous plateau or table-land from four to eight thousand feet above sea level. Rivers gather into a few desert water systems. The largest of these is that which, in its lower courses, has, in unnumbered ages, worn the mighty chasm of the Colorado. (ars) (217) ) : LESCENT KE Fire, anp Gray-GREEN Mesas, Dimty SEEN, TAKE ON THE GLEAM OF OPALESC CraGs th ene N GARLAND LAKES Watts DaRKEN, (216) SUNSET FROM Pima Point. “Peaxs Witt Suirt anp GLow, Copyright by Fred Harvey ANVTUVL) NIINVH—,,"SSVdYNG NVQ AONVY NIVINNO| ON woaNatag es V OLNI LT WUOISNVUT, THM “WHOLG AHL GNV ASTYNOOJ FHL ‘LASNAG AHL GNV SadNOID AH], jLIVA\ LNg,, “Mar, aNVu5 WoUy gurjuay 4 ¢) uouing kq ydvs30j0yg = 2) Lal iJ ee Ww I a ALISOdd() AHL AO NYALLV SNOADAOL) AHL ASOTOSIG] SLSIJT ONILAIT AHI, (219) Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service Tue Lookout at THE Heap or THE Bricut ANGEL TRAIL Near Ex Tovar ae Bo Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service WAITING FOR THE SIGNAL TO START Down Bricut ANGEL TRAIL One may descend to the river’s edge and back in one day by this trail (420) Copyright by Fred Harvey Tue CELEBRATED Jacop’s LappER ON THE Bricut ANGEL TRAIL The photograph shows how broad and safe are the Grand Canyon trails. There is no danger in the descent (221) POWELL’S GREAT ADVENTURE HE Grand Canyon was the culminating scene of one of the most stirring adventures in the history of American exploration. | For hundreds of miles the Colorado and its tributaries form a mighty network of mighty chasms which few had ventured even to enter. Of the Grand Canyon, deepest and hugest of all, tales were current of whirlpools, of hundreds of miles of underground passage, and of giant falls whose roaring music could be heard on distant mountain summits. The Indians feared it. Even the hardiest of frontiersmen refused it. It remained for a geologist and a school-teacher, a one-armed veteran of the Civil War, John Wesley Powell, afterwards director of the United States Geological Survey, to dare and to accomplish. This was in 1869. Nine men accompanied him in four boats. There proved to be no impassable whirlpools in the Grand Canyon, no underground passages, and no cataracts. But the trip was hazardous in the extreme. The adventurers faced the unknown at every bend, daily—some- times several times daily—embarking upon swift rapids without guessing upon what rocks or in what great falls they might terminate. Continually they upset. They were unable to build fires sometimes for days at a stretch. Three men deserted, hoping to climb the walls, and were killed by Indians— and this happened the very day before Major Powell and his faithful half dozen floated clear of the Grand Canyon into safety. Photograph by U. S. Geological Survey Two or THE Boats Usep By Major PoweE.ut In EXPLoRING THE CANYON (222) Photograph by El Tovar Studio MemoriAt ERECTED BY THE DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR TO Major JoHN WESLEY Powe.u. It Stanps on THE Rim aT SENTINEL POINT EASY TO REACH AND TO SEE T is possible to get a glimpse of the Grand Canyon by lengthening your transcontinental trip one day, but this day must be spent either on the rim or in one hasty rush down the Bright Angel Trail to the river’s edge; one can not do both the same day. ‘Two ardu- ous days, therefore, will give you a rapid glance at the general features. Three days will enable you to substitute the newer Kaibab Trail, with a night in the canyon, for the Bright Angel Trail. Four or five days will enable you to see the Grand Canyon; but after you see it you will want to live with it awhile. Another interesting trail is the Hermit. The canyon should be seen first from the rim. Hours, days, may be spent in emotional contemplation of this vast abyss. Navajo Point, Grand View, Shoshone Point, El Tovar, Hopi Point, Sentinel Point, Pima Point, Yavapai Point, the Hermit Rim—these are a few only of many spots of inspiration. An altogether different experience is the descent into the abyss. This is done on muleback over trails which zigzag steeply but safely down the cliffs. The hotels, camps, and facilities for getting around are admirable. Your sleeper brings you to the very rim of the canyon. (223) Courtesy Union Pacific System THE SuPERB KAIBAB FoREST THE NORTH aaa HERE is a remarkable difference between the north and south rimis. The north rim, a thousand feet higher, is a colder country, clothed with lusty forests of spruce, pine, fir, and quaking aspen, with no —_|| suggestion of the desert. Deer are plentiful on the north rim, and hundreds may be counted on an evening’s ride through the Kaibab Forest. A portion of this forest was added to the national park in 1927. The forest floor is amazingly clean, with little down timber or shrubby growths. Here and there the dense forest opens out to (ee parklike glades. These are especially the haunt of the deer. (224) Courtesy Union Pacific System View From Bricut ANGEL Point oN THE Nortu Rim oF THE CANYON SPECTACULAR VIEWS from NORTH RIM HE views from the north rim are markedly different from those obtained from the south side of the canyon. From the north one may see close at hand the vast temples which form the background of the south rim’s view. One looks down upon them, and on beyond to the distant canyon floor and its gaping gorge, which from most points hides the river from view. Beyond these the south rim rises like a great streaked flat wall. Still farther beyond, miles away, may be seen the dim blue San Francisco Peaks. It is a spectacle full of sublimity and charm. Bright Angel Point, extending out in the mighty gorge, affords glorious views. Near this point are located interesting and comfortable lodge accommo- dations. From Bright Angel Point the canyon drops away nearly six thousand feet and at this point the gorge is twelve miles across. Excellent trails connect the two rims, and a muleback trip from one side to the other is a never-to-be- forgotten experience. 81741°—28——15 (225) SONIYdS LOF{ JO MAIA TVYANAD ae es cee ee aoe - Site, gif HOT SPRINGS OF ARKANSAS M4 ad < A, a < Td L om < Z, = Z, < SS, es Oo > Zz. aa op) (op) < 3 2 a =o a ‘ << Z, 2 — <6 Z, > fa — e we O =. EH Z, 3) © = M4 ad x AL a e a) Q ° fe) 5 Q Q fad fy ° YY) = iv) a Pe 3 = = w a = jaa) 3 Z ty i = Ry ° ea | Z O S SE aise a eR SRNR iz Sain & 3S ‘= SS eS = w S a SS <= a 8 & bo =} Ss = ay ee eeeEeeEEEeeeEeEeEEEEOEyEeeeEeEeeEeEeEeEeEeEeEeEeEeee Photograph by J. K. Piggott A GLIMPSE OF THE BEAUTIFUL Muir Woops IN THE FOREST PRIMEVAL ITHIN ten miles of the city of San Francisco, in Marin County, California, lies one of the noblest forests of primeval Redwood in America. ‘That it stands to-day is due first to the fact that its outlet to the sea instead of to San Francisco Bay made it unprofitable to lumber in the days when redwoods grew like grain on California’s hills. . ~The Muir Woods National Monument contains over four hundred acres. Interspersed with the superb Redwood, the Sequoia sempervirens, sister to the Giant Sequoia of the Sierra, are many fine specimens of Douglas fir, madrona, California Bay, and mountain oak. The forest blends into the surrounding wooded country. It is essentially typical of the redwood growth, with a rich stream-watered bottom carpeted with ferns, violets, oxalis, and azalea. Many of the redwoods are magnificent specimens and some have extraor- dinary size. Cathedral Grove, and Bohemian Grove, where the famous revels of the Bohemian club were held before the club purchased its own permanent grove, are unexcelled in luxuriant beauty. This splendid area of forest primeval was named by its donors, Mr. and Mrs. William Kent, in honor of the celebrated naturalist of the Sierra, John Muir. It is so near San Francisco that thousands are able to enjoy its cathedral aisles of noble trees. (251) “AVG-OT, SuvaddV LI SV IVNLV Y LNOOJ/T 491905 a1y¢psd0a4) ouorw Ny 241 &q 14314hd07) Bots ZI6I ‘ANA[ 10 NOILaNUyY SNOGNAdNLG AHL AAOAAG ANOLNOZD TIVNIOIYG SLI SMOHS ANI] ALIN IH, (252) KATMAIS STEAMING VENTS Uj een Copyright by the National Geographic Society 3600 Tue Katmar CraTER (UPPER) COMPARED WITH KILAUEA CRATER (LOWER) NE of the greatest explosive volcanic eruptions of recent times blew several cubic miles of material out of Mount Katmai, on the southern shore of Alaska, in June, 1912. It left a great gulf where once the summit reared, and in its bottom a crater lake of unknown depth. A few miles away, across the divide, lies a group of valleys from which burst many thousands of vents of superheated vapors. The greatest of these has been named the ‘‘ Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes.”’ This remarkable volcanic region, to explore which the National Geographic Society has sent five expeditions, has no parallel elsewhere to-day. It is a ver- itable land of wonders. In the valley the ground in many places is too hot for walking. In others one may camp comfortably on the coldest nights in a warm tent and cook one’s breakfast on a steaming crack outside. The volume is beyond belief. A few feet below the surface, the temperature of the vents is often excessively high. Once the Yellowstone geyser basins probably resembled the ‘Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes,” and a few hundred thousand years from now this valley may become a geyser basin greater than Yellowstone’s. The explosion which wrecked Mount Katmai was heard at Juneau, seven hundred and fifty miles away. Its dust fell at Ketchikan, nine hundred miles away. Its fumes were smelled at Vancouver Island, fifteen hundred miles away. (253) -~ Se ve is] — Copyright by the National Geographic Society Down THE STEAMING SURFACE OF FALLING MountTaIn Roti Masses or Rocks or ALL SIZES Copyright by the National Geographic Society FoLLowING THE GREAT [RUPTION, A Vast QuantTiTy oF Pasty Lava IssuEp From THE VENT MontTEzuMA CASTLE MONTEZUMA CASTLE NATIONAL MONUMENT abe remarkable relic of a prehistoric race is the principal feature of a well-preserved group of cliff dwellings in the northeastern part of Yavapai County, Arizona, known as the Montezuma Castle National Monument. ‘The unique position and size of the ruin gives it the appearance of an ancient castle; hence its name. The structure is about fifty feet in height by sixty feet in width, built in the form of a crescent, with the convex part against the cliff. It is five stories high, the fifth story being back under the cliff and protected by a masonry wall four feet high, so that it is not visible from the outside. The walls of the structure are of masonry and adobe, plastered over on the inside and outside with mud. DEVILS TOWER NATIONAL MONUMENT T= extraordinary mass of igneous rock is one of the most cons Cn features in the Black Hills region of Wyoming. The tower is a steep-sided shaft rising six hundred feet above a rounded ridge of sedimentary rocks, about six hundred feet high, on the west bank of the Belle Fourche River. Its nearly flat top is elliptical in outline. Its sides are strongly fluted by the great columns of igneous rock, and are nearly per- pendicular, except near the top, where there is some rounding; and near the bottom, where there is considerable outward flare. The tower has been scaled in the past by means of special apparatus, but only at considerable risk. i The great columns of which the tower consists are mostly pentagonal in shape, but some are four or six sided. (256) Tue Devits Tower, WYOMING (257) L7 °— 28 81741 Ee = ‘SSUTJOMP JI[O puv UJOABS JO suINI auoystyaid Aueut ‘satjIsonins yeinzyeu sqenyea Ajjeoyues pue Sunjsosojur Joyjo pues ss8urids ureavo ouy jo gdnoo & 0} uoNIppe ur ‘punoy ore pooyroqysieu vy} UT ‘gpeyoods sutsoduy Ajjvar & sojN}HSUOS aoyM oy], "SoTTUL SAY JNO” UIQ} IND90 [TY “Ja|[PUIS o]}7I] B ore sospriq OM} JOY}O VY, “JooJ UaAas-AJJY pue porpuny suo weds oy} Jo }Y8Iey oy} pue ‘Jaey auO-A}XIS pue poIpuNy OM} weds oy} ‘opr }99} JYST9-AVUIM} PU PoIpUNY VUO SI YoIe vy, “Yose oy} Jo do} oY} 38 JooJ BAY-A}XIS JO ssouryory} Vv pue “Joos oM-A} OM} pue perpuny OM} Jo }YSPy & SuIAvY 991} 94} Jo qsoqeors oy} ‘Dury ey} Jo sadurexe jsa8ivj oy} Suowe aq 0} poojssepun o1e poyeolo sem ‘We ‘AJUNOD uenf{ ues ut JUSUINUOU JeuoNeU sty} UoreAtesoid osoyM JO} sespliq [einjyeu WH LE Nea ALN QUIN TION OE WEN 95 4 CT ele eh Ot Vit veN Sa9dlug IVUNLVN LNACIINOVIN UNO S,HVLQ, JO ANG ‘VLsnNONy AH, 258) ( Copyright by the National Geographic Society THE CHACO CANYON NATIONAL MONUMENT epee Chaco Canyon National Monument preserves remarkable relics of a pre- historic people once inhabiting New Mexico. Here are found numerous communal or pueblo dwellings built of stone, among which is the ruin known as Pueblo Bonito, containing, as it originally stood, twelve hundred rooms. It is the largest prehistoric ruin in the Southwest. Interesting exploration and excavation work among the ruins has been carried on by the National Geographic Society. SHOSHONE CAVERN NATIONAL MONUMENT NEE miles east of the celebrated Shoshone Dam, in Wyoming, is found the entrance to the picturesque Shoshone Cavern. Some of the rooms are a hundred and fifty feet long and forty or fifty feet high, and all are remarkably encrusted with limestone crystals. The passages through the cavern are most intricate, twisting, turning, doubling back, and descending so abruptly that ladders are often necessary. COLORADO NATIONAL MONUMENT - HIS area, near Grand Junction, Colorado, is similar to that of the Garden of the Gods at Colorado Springs, only much more beautiful and picturesque. With possibly two exceptions it exhibits probably as highly colored, magnifi- cent, and impressive examples of erosion, particularly of lofty monoliths, as may be found anywhere in the West. ‘These monoliths are located in several tribu- tary canyons. Some of them are of gigantic size; one over four hundred feet high is almost circular and a hundred feet in diameter at base. (259) LEWIS AND CLARK CAVERN NATIONAL MONUMENT -= ——- ee Pe feature of this national monument is a limestone cavern of great scientific interest because of its length and because of the number of © large vaulted chambers it contains. It is of historic interest, also, because it — overlooks for more than fifty miles the Montana trail of Lewis and Clark. The vaults of the cavern are magnificently decorated with stalactite and — stalagmite formations of great variety of size, form, and color, the equal of, if — not rivaling, the similar formations in the well-known Luray caves in Virginia. — The cavern has been closed on account of depredations of vandals. THE DINOSAUR NATIONAL MONUMENT HE Dinosaur National Monument in northeastern Utah was created to | preserve remarkable fossil deposits of extinct reptiles of great size. The reservation contains eighty acres of Jura-Trias rock. For years prospectors and residents had been finding large bones in the ~ neighborhood, and in 1909 Prof. Earl B. Douglass, of the Carnegie Museum of © Pittsburgh, under a permit from the Department of the Interior, undertook a scientific investigation. The results exceeded all expectation. Remains of many enormous animals which once inhabited what is now our Southwestern 3 States have been unearthed in a state of fine preservation. These include ~ complete and perfect skeletons of large dinosaurs. The chief find was the perfect skeleton of a brontosaurus eighty-five feet long and sixteen feet high which may have weighed, when living, twenty tons. UNEARTHING THE SKELETON OF A Giant DiINosAuR OF PREHISTORIC Days (260) eS ee ee ee ee eee ee a Pr. ee ee RAINBOW BRIDGE NATIONAL MONUMENT pe natural bridge is located within the Navajo Indian Reservation, near the southern boundary of Utah, and spans a canyon and small stream which drains the northwestern slopes of Navajo Mountain. It is of great scientific interest as an example of eccentric stream erosion. Among the known extraordinary natural bridges of the world, this bridge is unique in that it is not only a symmetrical arch below but presents also a curved surface above, thus suggesting roughly a rainbow. Its height above the surface of the water is three hundred and nine feet and its span is two hundred and seventy-eight feet. The bridge and the neighboring canyon walls are gorgeously clothed in mottled red and yellow. It was first seen by white men in August, 1909, when Professor Byron Cummings, John Wetherill, and William B. Douglass visited it under the guidance of an Indian boy. (261) THE CASA GRANDE NATIONAL MONUMENT @ Be of the best preserved and most interesting ruins in the Southwest has been preserved in this reservation, which is near Florence, Arizona. The structure was once at least four stories high. Many mounds in the neigh- borhood indicate that it was one of a large group of dwellings of some im- portance. The ruin was discovered by the intrepid Jesuit missionary, Father Eusebio Francisco Kino, at the end of the seventeenth century. THE PAPAGO SAGUARO NATIONAL MONUMENT Wye this national monument, which lies about nine miles east of Phoenix, Arizona, and less than a dozen miles from the Apache Trail, grow splendid examples of characteristic desert flora, including many striking specimens of giant cactus (saguaro) and many other interesting species of cacti, such as the prickly pear and cholla. EL MORRO NATIONAL MONUMENT F* MORRO, or Inscription Rock, in western central New Mexico, is an enormous sandstone rock rising a couple of hundred feet out of the plain and eroded in such fantastic form as to give it the appearance of a castle. The earliest inscription is dated February 18, 1526. Historically the most important inscription is that of Juan de Ofiate, a colonizer of New Mexico and the founder of the city of Santa Fe, in 1606. It was in this year that Ofiate visited El Morro and carved this inscription on his return from a trip to the head of the Gulf of California. ‘There are nineteen other Spanish inscriptions. CAPULIN MOUNTAIN NATIONAL MONUMENT APULIN MOUNTAIN is a volcanic cinder cone of recent origin, six miles southwest of Folsom, New Mexico. It is the most magnificent specimen of a considerable group of craters. Capulin has an altitude of eight thousand feet, rising 1,500 feet above the surrounding plain. It is almost a perfect cone. VERENDRYE NATIONAL MONUMENT pee the left bank of the Missouri River, at Old Crossing, North Dakota, rises an impressive eminence from which the great plains west of the Rockies — doubtless were first seen by civilized man. Crowhigh Butte is the second highest elevation in the State. It is conserved by presidential proclamation under the title of Verendrye National Monument. | Verendrye, the celebrated French explorer, started from the north shore of Lake Superior sixty years before the Lewis and Clark expedition, passed westward and southwestward into the unknown regions of the plains and the mountains, and, about 1740, stood upon the summit of this striking butte. (262) Tue Neep.es, Pinnactes Nationa MonuMENT PINNACLES NATIONAL MONUMENT HE spires, domes, caves, and subterranean passages of the Pinnacles National Monument in San Benito County, California, are well worth a visit. The name is derived from the spirelike formations arising from six hundred to a thousand feet from the floor of the canyon forming a landmark visible many miles in every direction. A series of caves, opening one into the other, lie under each of the groups of rock. ‘These vary greatly in size, one in particular, known as the Banquet Hall, being about a hundred feet square, with a ceiling thirty feet high. (263) THE TUMACACORI NATIONAL MONUMENT HE Tumacacori National Monument in Santa Cruz County, Arizona, was created to preserve a very ancient Spanish mission ruin dating, it is thought, from the latter part of the sixteenth century. It was built by Jesuit priests from Spain and operated by them for over a century. After the year 1769 priests belonging to the order of Franciscan Fathers took charge of the mission and repaired its crumbling walls, maintaining peace- able possession for about sixty years, until driven out by Apache Indians. GRAN QUIVIRA NATIONAL MONUMENT HE Gran Quivira has long been recognized as one of the most important of the earliest Spanish church or mission ruins in the Southwest. It is in central New Mexico. Near by are numerous Indian pueblo ruins, occupying an area many acres in extent, which also, with sufficient land to protect them, was reserved. The outside dimensions of the church ruin, which is in the form of a short-arm cross, are about forty-eight by one hundred and forty feet, and its walls are from four to six feet thick and from twelve to twenty feet high. NAVAJO NATIONAL MONUMENT HIS tract encloses three interesting and extensive prehistoric pueblos or cliff-dweller ruins in an excellent state of preservation. These are known as the Betatakin, the Keet Seel, and Inscription House. Inscription House Ruin, on Navajo Creek, is regarded as extraordinary, not only because of its good state of preservation, but because of the fact that upon the walls of its rooms are found inscriptions written in Spanish by early explorers and plainly dated 1661. This monument is in Arizona. (264) Wier TRIFIED FOREST OF ARIZONA HE Petrified Forest National Monument lies in the area between the Little Colorado River and the Rio Puerco, fifteen miles east of their junction. This area is of interest because of the abundance of petrified coniferous trees. It has exceptional scenic features also. The trees lie scattered about in great profusion; none, however, stands erect in its original place of growth, as in the Yellowstone National Park. The trees probably at one time grew beside an inland sea; after falling they became water-logged, and during decomposition the cell structure of the wood was entirely replaced by silica from sandstone in the surrounding land. SITKA NATIONAL MONUMENT, ALASKA HIS monument reservation is situated about a mile from the steamboat landing at Sitka, Alaska. Upon this ground was located formerly the village of a warlike tribe—the Kik-Siti Indians—where the Russians under Baranoff in 1802 fought and won the ‘‘decisive battle of Alaska” against the Indians and effected the lodgment that offset the then active attempts of Great Britain to possess this part of the country. The Russian title thus acquired to the Alexander Archipelago was later transferred to the United States. A celebrated ‘witch tree’’ of the natives and sixteen totem poles, several of which are examples of the best work of the savage genealogists of the Alaska clans, stand sentrylike along the beach. (265) AZTEC RUIN NATIONAL MONUMENT Res RUIN, the principal feature of this New Mexico monument, is a large E-shaped structure of pueblo type containing approximately five hundred rooms. ‘The first story of the building is standing, and portions of the second and third stories. The ceilings are supported by large beams, cut and dressed with stone tools, which are interesting exhibits of work done in the Stone Age. The sandstone walls, reasonably plumb and with dressed faces, take high rank as examples of prehistoric masonry. The plot of ground bearing the ruins was presented to the United States by the American Museum of Natural History through the generosity of Mr. Archer M. Huntington, one of its trustees. SCOTTS BLUFF NATIONAL MONUMENT HIS national monument in the State of Nebraska is rich in historic interest. Scotts Bluff, one of the highest known points in the State, was a well- known landmark on the Old Oregon Trail, and along this way passed a vast concourse of the pioneers that trailed overland on their way to settle the Willamette Valley and Puget Sound regions in Oregon and Washington, to hunt for gold in distant California, or to found the Mormon colonies of Utah. In the days of the pony express Scotts Bluff was the scene of many Indian battles. It is estimated that about the middle of the nineteenth century an average of one wagon every five minutes passed through Mitchell Pass, which is located within the boundaries of the present monument. PIPE SPRING NATIONAL MONUMENT IPE SPRING, on the main road between Zion National Park and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, forms a welcome oasis in the Arizona desert. This spring was famous in the early pioneer life of Utah and Arizona. Here in the early sixties the Mormon Church established a cattle ranch, and the ruined old stone fort they erected, known as Windsor Castle, is the prin- cipal feature of the monument. YUCCA HOUSE NATIONAL MONUMENT alte monument was established to preserve the ruin of a prehistoric village in southwestern Colorado. The village is now a cluster of mounds with no sign of a wall rising above their surfaces. On account of the large size and extent of the mounds, it is believed that when excavated they will prove of great archeological interest and educational value. The land upon which the ruins are situated, approximately ro acres in extent, was donated to the United — States Government by Henry Van Kleek, of Denver, Colorado. (266) THe Totem PoLes AnD OTHER INTERESTING FORMATIONS IN CARLSBAD CAVE CARLSBAD CAVE NATIONAL MONUMENT ARLSBAD CAVE, in New Mexico, consists of a series of lofty, spacious chambers and connecting corridors, with alcoves extending off to the sides, that are of remarkable beauty. There is an infinite variety in the size and shape of the stalactites, stalagmites, and other limestone decorations. Although an expedition of the National Geographic Society spent about six months making a detailed study of the cave, it is so huge that its size is still a matter of conjecture. FOSSIL CYCAD NATIONAL MONUMENT [te was to protect its large deposits of fossil cycads, fernlike plants of the Mesozoic period, that this area in the Black Hills of South Dakota was made a national monument. ‘These fossil plant beds are among the most interesting yet discovered, with the most perfectly preserved specimens. Scientific in- vestigations show that the cycads, which are of tree-fern type, actually bore flowers in the age when egg-laying monsters were still extant. Many of the fossil tree trunks contain large numbers of unexpanded buds, while in other cases are found fruits that had begun to mature before fossilization set in. (267) HOVENWEEP NATIONAL MONUMENT HIS national monument in Utah and Colorado contains four groups of remarkable prehistoric towers, pueblos, and cliff dwellings. In the largest group there are eleven different buildings. The largest of these, Hovenweep Castle, has walls that measure 66 feet long and 20 feet high. Besides towers and great rooms, this building has two circular kivas on the east end identical in construction with those found in the ruins of Mesa Verde National Park. CRATERS OF THE MOON NATIONAL MONUMENT THE Craters of the Moon National Monument, in Idaho, is a volcanic region, the most recent example of fissure eruption in the United States. As its name signifies, it closely resembles the surface of the moon when seen through a telescope. Nowhere else in the United States can so many volcanic features be found in so small an area. ‘There is a profusion of cinder cones, craters, and hornitos, and huge black fields of lava spread out for miles. ‘The lava tunnels and caves are especially interesting, with their beautiful blue and red lava stalactites and stalagmites and other unusual formations. CRATERS AND CoNES RISING FROM THE LAVA FIELDS (268) Courtesy the National Geographic Society A View or GLACIER Bay GLACIER BAY NATIONAL MONUMENT Nae Glacier Bay region of Alaska contains tidewater glaciers of the first rank in a setting of lofty peaks. Because of the unique opportunity afforded here for the scientific study of glacial action, of the resulting movements and development of flora and fauna, and of certain valuable relics of ancient inter- glacier forests, a portion of this area was set aside as the Glacier Bay National Monument. | The region also contains a great variety of forest covering consisting of mature area, bodies of youthful trees which have become established since the retreat of the ice, and great stretches, now bare, that will become forested in the course of the next century. These should be preserved in their natural con- dition. ‘The monument is also of historic interest, having been visited by explorers and scientists since the early voyage of Vancouver in 1794. WUPATKI NATIONAL MONUMENT A eee Wupatki Monument consists of two tracts of land lying west of the Little Colorado River in Arizona, on which are located interesting red- sandstone pueblos built by the ancestors of the Hopi, one of the most picturesque tribes of Indians in the United States to-day. The buildings were constructed by the Snake family of the Hopi in their migration from the Grand Canyon. 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